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A UTHOR: 
 
 WILLIAMS, HUGH 
 WILLIAM 
 
 TITLE: 
 
 TRAVELS IN ITALY, 
 GREECE, AND THE 
 
 PLACE: 
 
 DINBURGH 
 
 DA TE: 
 
 
COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 
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 945.01 
 1^72 
 
 Williams, HjiUgh^ \Y(;illiain3 1773-.1829. 
 
 Travels in Italy, Greece and the Ionian isl- 
 ands, in a series of letters descriptive of iran- 
 ners, scenery and the fine arts. Edinburgh, 
 Constable, 1820. 
 
 2 V. plates, ports. 21-i cm. 
 
 Copy in Avery library. 
 
 
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TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 \ 
 
 SI 
 
 
 IN 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 IN A 
 
 SERIES OF LETTERS, 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF 
 MANNERS, SCENERY, AND THE FINE ARTS. 
 
 By H. W. WILLIAMS, Esq. 
 
 WITH ENGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 EDINBURGH : 
 
 PRINTED FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO. EDINBURGH; 
 
 AND HURST, HOBIXSO.V, AXl) CO. DO, CHEAPSIDE, LONDOX. 
 
 1 820, 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 Til 
 
 -y 
 
 ^. I 
 
 IN 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 IX A 
 
 S E U I E S O F LETTER S, 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF 
 
 MANNERS, SCENERY, AND THE FINE ARTS. 
 
 By II. W. WILLIAMS, Esq. 
 
 WITH EXGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES, 
 
 VOL. L 
 
 EDINBURGH: 
 
 nnxTin for ahciiibald constable and co. Edinburgh; 
 
 AND nrUST, KOHINSOX, AXl) CO. DO, CHEAI'SIDE, LONDOX. 
 
 1820, 
 
 M- 
 
 *> 
 
 J 
 
1i 
 
 <^ 4 5" .6i 
 
 v/- I 
 
 I 
 
 
 •V 
 
 lO THE 
 
 REVEREND JOHN THOMSON, F.R.S.E. 
 
 THESE 
 
 LETTERS FROM ITALY 
 
 ARE INSCRIBED, 
 
 BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND, 
 
 H. W. WILLIAMS. 
 
Qlft of tlie Estate of 
 Mr3. Mary B. WtMo 
 
 ■AY f 2 f9f 4 
 
 2U8-^'^ 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In presenting these Letters to the public, 
 it were equally idle to affect indifference to 
 their reception, or overwhelming solicitude. 
 Were I ambitious of literary fame, I might, 
 indeed, sink under the consciousness of 
 having engaged in an undertaking, so foreign 
 to my previous habits and pursuits ; while I 
 could not fail to be still more discouraged 
 by the learning and talents of those accom- 
 plished travellers, with whom I should thus 
 be brought into immediate comparison. 
 Aly aim has been different and less aspiring; 
 and were it necessary to apologize for the 
 apparent presumption, of obtruding on the 
 public an account of my travels in countries, 
 already so frequently and amply described 
 as almost to satiate curiosity, I would derive 
 
VIU 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 my apology from those very circumstances, 
 which disqualify me from competing with 
 my more learned predecessors. The dis- 
 quisitions into which the antiquary and the 
 classicalscholar are perpetually and irresist- 
 ibly led, in adverting to the scenes of his- 
 torical or fabulous celebrity, and to the vari- 
 ous monuments of ancient times, which in 
 Greece and Italy meet us at every step, are 
 apt to withdraw their attention from objects 
 of more obvious, though not inferior, inter- 
 est; and leave the general reader, but, above 
 all, the future traveller in the same coun- 
 tries, cause to regret, that so disproportion- 
 ate a share of their works is devoted to 
 these disquisitions, to the exclusion of much 
 valuable information. 
 
 Besides, our modes of observation are 
 as various as our mental peculiarities. 
 What one traveller may be inclined to 
 disregard, another may consider as worthy 
 of especial attention ; and a corresponding 
 variety of tastes may be expected in their 
 readers. The writer, therefore, who con- 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 IX 
 
 tents himself with describing scenes and 
 objects as they presented themselves to 
 his own mind, and expressing his senti- 
 ments as they arose, can scarcely fail to 
 excite some degree of interest, and to im- 
 part to his information the freshness of 
 originality. To this end my ambition as 
 an author is limited, — happy if 1 have suc- 
 ceeded in delineating faithfully the objects 
 which were most attractive to myself, and 
 in conveying to my readers some impres- 
 sion of the feelings, with which I contem- 
 plated the scenery and the precious monu- 
 ments of the most interesting countries in 
 the world. 
 
 My professional habits may have inclined 
 me to indulge in more lengthened remarks 
 on works of art, than may appear, to some 
 of my readers, either necessary or proper. 
 Of this propensity I was myself aware, and 
 frequently endeavoured to restrain it. Yet 
 who could resist dwelling with enthusiasm 
 on those great masterpieces, which have 
 commanded the admiration, and regulated 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 the taste of ages ; and which, while they 
 exist, will continue to impart their princi- 
 pal interest to the favoured countries in 
 which they were produced? In Britain, 
 where the Fine Arts now flourish with a 
 vigour, that bids fair to rival the best pro- 
 ductions of antiquity, these remarks may 
 be considered as not altogether devoid of 
 interest. They may furnish some useful 
 hints to those who have no opportunity of 
 contemplating the splendid originals to 
 which they refer ; they may be of some ad- 
 vantage to our ingenuous youth, whose 
 chief object in visiting those countries, is, 
 to improve their taste by the study of the 
 inimitable monuments of genius with which 
 they are enriched ; and may tend to shew 
 the causes which have contributed to the 
 degeneracy of the modern Italian Schools, 
 and the improvements of which their pre- 
 sent modes of study appear to be suscep- 
 tible. 
 
 From all that I have had an opportunity 
 of observing abroad, my uniform aim has 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 XI 
 
 been, to select what might be ornamental 
 or useful at home ; and most fortunate 
 should I account myself, if the suggestions 
 which I have occasionally presumed to 
 offer, should lead to any practical advan- 
 tage, — particularly in the embellishment of 
 our northern capital. 
 
 To do justice to the merits of our Bri- 
 tish artists, who, in almost every depart- 
 ment, leave their contemporaries on the 
 Continent far behind, was another object 
 which I had much at heart. Wherever an 
 opportunity occurred of bringing the works 
 of our eminent painters, particularly in 
 Edinburgh, into comparison with those 
 which I have seen in Italy, I embraced it 
 with eagerness ; and have only to regret, 
 that these opportunities have been so rare 
 as to oblige me to omit some names, well en- 
 titled to praise. To the compositions of Mr 
 Gibson, the miniatures of Mr Douglas, the 
 portraits of Mr Watson, Mr Sime, and of 
 Mr John WATsoN,whose surprising progress 
 in the art is the theme of general admira- 
 
Xll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 xm 
 
 tion, — it would have given me much plea- 
 sure to advert ; and, perhaps, an opportu- 
 nity may hereafter be found. The Plates 
 which accompany these Letters are engrav- 
 ed by Mr Lizars ; and the style in which 
 they are executed are, in every respect, 
 worthy of his well-earned celebrity. 
 
 I have only to add, that, though I am 
 chargeable with all the faults which may 
 be detected in these Letters, there are 
 some parts of them of which I cannot 
 claim the praise. The accomplished and 
 invaluable friend with whom it was my 
 happiness to travel, allowed me to tran- 
 scribe from his Journal the Letters from 
 Elba, part of the Journey to Otranto, and 
 the Description of the Ionian Islands.* To 
 another friend I am indebted for a few ob- 
 servations on the Manners of the Romans ; 
 and a considerable portion of the informa- 
 tion contained in the Twenty-ninth and 
 
 I 
 
 Thirty-second Letters, as well as the docu- 
 ment respecting the Mineralogy of Elba, 
 was communicated to me by a gentleman 
 of hif^h literary eminence, whose long re- 
 sidence in Italy gave him the best oppor- 
 tunities of information, and whose intimacy 
 I deem one of the greatest pleasures of my 
 
 life. 
 
 In the progress of the Letters through 
 the press, some inaccuracies have escaped, 
 which the intelligent reader will easily 
 correct, and which, I trust, his candour 
 will forgive. 
 
 Edinburgh f ?jd December 1819. 
 
 * Except the description of Ithaca, and part of CephalO' 
 nia, which I drew up from my own Notes. 
 
CONTENTS OF VOLUME L 
 
 J^i 
 
 LETTER I. p,ge 
 
 OsTEND.~A fair or kirmes.— Popinjay.— Harbour..^ 
 Lighthouse.-Track-boat. -Bruges.— Scenery.-Ca . 
 thedral — Nunnery, . . ^ 
 
 LETTER n. 
 Ghent—Church of Saint Brevon.-Scenery.-Most. 
 
 Brussels.— Cathedral.— Peter the Great.— High 
 
 IMass, 
 
 10 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Waterloo.-Field of battle.-Namur.-Huy .-Liege - 
 Aix la Chapelle— Cologne, . - * K 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Husbandry.- Bonn.-Flying Bridge.^ Andernach.- 
 
 Coblentz—Neideringelheim—Castles on the Rhine 
 
 ~-Mayence.-Manheim._Heidelberg.-Inns.-Ba. 
 den.-Assembly.-Anecdote of Napoleon.-^ Anec- 
 dote of the Prince of Baden, . . 
 
 LETTER V. 
 Gekeva -Black Forest-Hercynian Forest.-Basle. 
 -Holbe.n._S«iss Painters-Scenery between Basle 
 nnd Soleure.-AIps._Swiss Cottages._Orbc.-Lau- 
 
XVI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 'a«,'e 
 
 sanne. — L;ikeof(Ieneva. — Geneva. 
 — Landscape Painters, 
 
 — Arveantl Rhone. 
 
 34 
 
 LETTER VL 
 
 Milan.— Vales of Cleuse and Servos.— Vale of Cha- 
 
 roouni Alpine Scenery.— Valossen and Tetenoire. 
 
 Trient— Plain of the Valais. — Simplon— Domo 
 
 d' Ossola— Lago Maggiore — Milan.— Leonardo da 
 Vinci.— Ambrosian Library.— Appearance of Milan, 43 
 
 LETTER VIL 
 Parma.— Lodl.—Piacenza.— Francisco Mochi — Ca- 
 thedral —Church of St Augustine.— Church of St 
 
 John.— Parma Corrcggio.— Parmigiano.-Paintiiigs 
 
 by Correggio.— Caraccis.— Schidone.— Guercino — 
 Procaccini— Prize Pictures.— Library — Museum of 
 Antiquities at Valeia, . - - 51 
 
 LETTER VIIL 
 MoDENA AND BoLOGNA.— Modena.—The Palace and 
 Pictures.— Academy, and ancient and modern Paint- 
 ings.— Bologna.— Pictures returned from Paris.— 
 Paintings from the suppressed Monasteries.— Maris- 
 calchi Palace and Pictures.— Church of San Petro- 
 nico.— Fountain in the Piazza del Giganti.— View 
 from the Tower of Asinelli, - - 63 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 Florence.- Pietra Mala.— View from the Tower of 
 Porabosclio.- Statues in tlie Palazzo Vecchio— 
 Piazzo del Granduca and Log-ia de Lanzl— Her- 
 cules and Centaur, near the I'onti Vecchio, - 71 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XVll 
 
 LETTER X. Page 
 
 Florence. — Remarks on the Series of Ancient Pictures 
 in the Corridor, and Statues and Pictures in the 
 Tribune, - - - - 86 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 Florence. — Pictures of the Venetian School. — Tuscan 
 School. — DutchSchool. — Flemish andGermanSchool. 
 — Description of a Landscape by Claude. — French 
 School. — Observations on the Origin of Landscape- 
 Painting in the Grand Style. — French School con- 
 tinued. — Portraits. — Salle de Frate. — Some account 
 of the various grounds which several of the Painters 
 have used.— Copyists.-— Statues of the Niobe Family. 
 — Observations on Mr Cockerell's idea regarding 
 the Niobe Marbles. — Rubens* Battles, and entry of 
 Henry IV. into Paris, in the Salle de Niobe. — Statue 
 of the Hermaphrodite. — Bronzes and Gems. — Mar- 
 bles in the Corridor. — Observations on the measur- 
 ing of Statues, - - - - 101 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Florence. — The Cathedral. — Santa Croce. — Tomb of 
 M. Angclo. — Santissima Annunziata. — Votive Offer- 
 ings. — Organs — Sopranos. — Pulpits. — Chapel de' 
 Depositi — M. Angelo's Statues. — Ghiberti's Gates. 
 — Prison. — Madhouse. — Santa Maria Nuovella. — So- 
 ciety called the Buonuomini di San Martino. — And 
 Society of Misericordia, - - - 130 
 
 LETTER XIIL 
 
 Florence. — Academy delle Belle Arte. — Its Pictures, 
 Casts, Drawings, &c — Character of the Prize Pic- 
 tures. — A more extensive Study of Nature recom- 
 
 VOL. 1, b 
 
XVlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 mended.— Rules of the Academy in regard to admis- 
 sion of Students, Prizes, &c.— Porcelain Manufac- 
 tory.— Artists.— Bartolini, Benvenuti, &c.— -Morg- 
 hen the Engraver,— Canova's Venus, compared with 
 the Venus of Cleomenes, - • -14.4 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 Florence. Description of the Pictures in the Palaz- 
 zo Pitti, and likewise the Palaces Corsini, Gerini, 
 Mozi, Ricardi.— Palace of Marquis Amelio Puci, and 
 Pandolphini, - . - 154 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Florence.— Visit to the three Sanctuaries, Vallombro- 
 sa, Camaldoli, and La Verna.— Reflections on Mo- 
 nastic Institutions, • « - 180 
 
 LETTER XVL 
 
 Leghorn— Road to Pisa.— Tower of San Miniato.— 
 Pisa. — Road to Leghorn. — Remarks on Brilliancy 
 of Colouring. — Leghorn. — Taste for Dancing La- 
 zarettos. — Fate of Dr Smollet's Diploma Remarks 
 
 on Cemeteries, • - - 192 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 Elba. — Coast of Italy from Leghorn to Populonea. 
 
 Fishing of Anchovies — Elba. — Palace of Napoleon. 
 —Napoleon. — His Improvements and Popularity. — 
 Revenue of Elba. — Political importance. — Appear- 
 ance of the Country. — Game. — Noxious Animals, 204 
 
 LETTER XVin. 
 Elba.— -Agriculture.— Vineyards. — Terms of Tenure. 
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 XIX 
 
 Page 
 — Want of Grain. — Fruit Trees. — Wines. — Malaria. 
 —Count Strasoldo. — Fossi Family, - 216 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 Quarry of White Marble.— Napoleon's Country House 
 at San Martino. — -Lucera. — Volterrajo.— Monte 
 Cristo. — St Piero and Ilario. — Granite Pillars at 
 
 Sacchetta. — Pianoso. — Poggio. — Water Spouts. 
 
 Napoleon's Departure. — Sketch by Napoleon.— Napo- 
 leon believed to be in England. — Tunny Fishery 
 
 Variety of Fish.— Magnetic Mountain Elbese Sail- 
 ors. — Populonia. — History of Elba, - - 227 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 Florence. — Return to Florence by Lucca. — Baths of 
 Pisa. — Lucca. — Baths of Lucca. — Observations on 
 sketching rapidly — Pistoia. — Prato, - 242 
 
 LETTER XXL 
 
 Peuugia. — Road to Rome.— Arezzo. — Pictures in the 
 Cathedral. — Italian Sky. — Intrinsic beauty of Dew 
 Drops. — Lake of Thrasimene. — Perugia. — Pictures, 
 Academy, and Buildings.— Pictures by Raphael, Pe- 
 rugino, and Guido.— Observations on giving such 
 pictures to youth to study from.— Casa della Penna. 
 —Petrifying Spring of San Phillipo, applied to the 
 formation of Casts, - - , 24^ 
 
 LETTER XXIL 
 
 Rome— Journey to Rome — Foligna Temple of Clf- 
 
 tumnus. — Spoleto — Terni — Narni— Otricoli Ci- 
 
 vita — Castellana — Nepi Arrival at Rome, - 267 
 
XX 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XXI 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 Rome. — Panorama from the Top of the Capitol.- 
 Sketch of the interior of St Peter's, 
 
 Page 
 
 284? 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 Rome. — Rome as it appears from elevated situations. 
 
 Gates. — Streets. — Palaces. — Varied Population. — 
 
 Shops. — Inferior streets. — Destruction of ancient 
 marble. — Squares Obelisks. — Churches.— Exter- 
 nal effect of St Peter's.— Pantheon — Remains of an- 
 tiquity preserved in the walls, . - - 
 
 292 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 Rome The Ruins by Moonlight — Column of Trajan. 
 
 — Temples of Nerva, Pallas, and Peace — Coliseum, 
 and Ruins in the ancient Forum, - - - 299 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 Rome. — The Borghese Collection of Paintings, - 303 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 Rome. — Ruins of Rome. — Their interest to the Anti- 
 quary and Painter. — The use made of them by the 
 old Masters. — The profusion of materials and facili- 
 ties for composition, pointed out by Claude, Poussin, 
 and Domenichino. — Conduct of the modern Artists. 
 
 State of the Arts in Rome. — The example of the 
 
 British Painters may tend to the resuscitation of Ita- 
 lian Art. — Sculpture. — Remarks on Canova's and 
 Thorwaldson's works, a comparison between them. — 
 Appearance of their Studios. — Gem and Copperplate 
 Engraving. — State of Architecture. — Hints to plant- 
 ing in Edinburgh, - - • SI 8 
 
 12 
 
 LETTER XXVJII. Page 
 
 Rome. — Pictures in the Gallery of the Vatican. 
 
 Michael Angelo's Fresco Painting of the Last Judg- 
 ment, and his Creation of Man in the Sistine Chapel, 334} 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 Rome.— Character of the Pope.— His Situation.— His 
 Holiness's wish to establish a Catholic Bishop at Cor- 
 fu.— Mode of Introduction to the Pope Exiled Li- 
 terary Persons.— State of Papal Revenue 1817 
 
 Cardinal RufFo.— Cardinal Fesch.— Dissatisfaction in 
 the creating of a number of Cardinals.— Vatican Li- 
 brary.— Propaganda Fide.— Restoration of Ancient 
 MS. to Germany.— Libraries.— Dr Sebastiano's re- 
 searches, 3^g 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 Rome— Indolence of the Roman Nobility.— Its causes. 
 —Malaria.— Education of the Noblemen. — Their want 
 of dignity — Morals of the Women.— Cavalieri Ser- 
 vienti.— Education of the Girls.— They go more to 
 foreign society than formerly.— British Ladies do not 
 associate much with the Italian Ladies.— Duke of 
 B— 's Routes — Dress of the Italian Ladies.— Their 
 Manners contrasted with those of Women of other 
 Nations.— Conversation Room.— Gaming Room.— 
 Music Room.— English Parties, . . 359 
 
 LETTER XXXL 
 
 Rome.— Ball at the Neapolitan Ambassador's.— Cha- 
 racter of a Roman Masquerade— Want of Hospita- 
 
 lity.— Character ofaConverzatione.-Improvvisatores. 
 -Amuse'iients of the Peasantry. — Love Epistles 
 written by people who make a Livelihood by them.— 
 Fighting with Knives and Stones.-Contrasts in Rome, 373 
 
 
xxu 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Appendix, 
 
 Page 
 385 
 
 No. I MiNERALOGicAL Report, made by the 
 
 Chief Engineer of the Grand Duke of Tuscany to 
 his Serene Highness, respecting Elba, - 387 
 
 No. IL— Plants within the Coliseum, 
 
 389 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 rnr 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
LETTER I. 
 
 Ostend, — A fair or hirmes. — Popinjay, — Harbour, — Light-* 
 house* — Track-boat* — Bruges. — Scenery, — Cathedral,'^ 
 Nunnery. 
 
 My Dear Sir, Bruges, July 1816. 
 
 I ou know how reluctantly I yielded to your re- 
 quest, that I should transmit to you, with every 
 opportunity, an account of all that we should hear 
 or see worthy of notice, in the course of our tra- 
 vels : and I am now repenting, in good earnest, of 
 my thoughtless facility. To myself, indeed, the 
 field that lies before me is a field of the richest 
 promise ; and my fancy seems already to realize 
 the glowing picture which you pourtrayed of the 
 countries which we are to visit ; countries which 
 have long been celebrated for all that is lovely in 
 nature, and exquisite in art. I anticipate, with 
 the most ardent expectation, the pleasure which I 
 shall enjoy in treading that soil which was conse- 
 crated by the first footsteps of Liberty, — in traver- 
 
 VOL. r. A 
 
2 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 sing the chosen haunts of the Muses, — in be- 
 coming a temporary inhabitant of those lands, which 
 are endeared by all our earliest and most refined 
 associations, and where the human mind display- 
 ed its noblest energies, — and in contemplating the 
 most wonderful monuments of genius, amidst the 
 enchanting localities by which it was inspired. 
 
 All this promises, to be sure, to be very delight- 
 ful ; but since all this has been so often enjoyed, and 
 so well described by former travellers, shall I not be 
 in danger either of repeating to you what you al- 
 ready know, or of eking out for you a meagre en- 
 tertainment from the gleanings which my prede- 
 cessors have left ? Be moderate, then, in your ex- 
 pectations. All that I propose is, to tell you, in 
 my own way, what we see ; and, if my informa- 
 tion be not new, I promise you, at least, that it 
 shall not be borrowed. 
 
 On the Oth of July, (1816,) we took our passage 
 for Ostend at an agent's office in Exeter 'Change. 
 Our carriage was taken to pieces and properly 
 shipped. This was no sooner done, than we were 
 informed that the vessel went no farther than to 
 Ramsgate, where the carriage must be unshipped 
 and put on board another packet. In short, we 
 were deceived ; and I hereby give warning to all 
 future travellers, to be more particular in their pre- 
 vious inquiries. Fortunately, when we arrived at 
 Ramsgate, a vessel was ready to sail, and we 
 
 KIRMES — POPINJAY. 
 
 were quickly transported to Ostend. We took up 
 our quarters at the Hotel Wellington, in which, 
 after a tolerable dinner, we were regaled with 
 Champagne not much inferior to our Perry. In 
 walking through the town, the first I had ever 
 seen on the continent, our eyes, you may be sure, 
 were not idle. A fair, or kirmes, had been held 
 here for three days, and was to continue as many 
 more. Nothing but rejoicing and merry-making 
 prevailed. Of their various amusements, the most 
 interesting to us was their archery, which carried 
 back our recollection to the games of our ances- 
 tors, and seemed to place before our eyes the ori- 
 ginal mode of shooting at the popinjay. Prizes 
 were given to the best marksmen, and certainly 
 some of them were very expert. There was fixed 
 in the ground a long pole, about sixty or seventy 
 feet in height, at the top of which was fastened a 
 horizontal bar of wood. On ^!iis were hunff seve- 
 ral pieces of tin, resembling small birds in size and 
 shape ; these they brought to the ground perhaps 
 once in twenty shots. People from various parts 
 of the country joined in this amusement, and high 
 and low mixed together on the most familiar 
 terms ; indeed, all distinction of rank seemed to be 
 for the time forgotten. In one of the processions, 
 headed by a band of music, I perceived various 
 orders of the people, including military men, arti- 
 sans, peasants from the country, women, and even 
 
4 
 
 HARBOUR — LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 children. Such a set of meriy, happy faces — 
 Heraclitus himself, had he been there, must have 
 caught the contagion of their gaiety, and joined, 
 as we did with our whole souls, in their light- 
 hearted laugh. The women of the lower orders 
 were somewhat like our Highland shearers^ but 
 with this exception, that they all wore monstrous 
 ear-rings- dangling to their shoulders — not one of 
 them was handsome. 
 
 The piers of the harbour are composed of logs 
 of wood driven into the ground, and apparently 
 going to decay. To us, who had just left the 
 bustle of the Thames, the stillness of Ostend har- 
 bour presented a most cheerless contrast. It re- 
 sembles, indeed, one of the deserted havens of the 
 coast of Fife, rather than the port of a populous 
 town, for it displayed not the slightest appearance 
 of business. It is said that the Prince of Orange 
 was ill-received, and that the Belgians would pre- 
 fer being under British protection. We were much 
 pleased with the light-house built by Napoleon ; it 
 is in good taste, and not unlike the column of Tra- 
 jan at Rome. The fortifications are already over- 
 grown with grass and plants. We were not allowed 
 to walk on them, howevei", but were rudely ordered 
 off by a Belgian soldier. At the customhouse, the 
 officers, all French, examined our trunks, and re- 
 placed every article with a nicety peculiar to them- 
 selves : they were very civil ; indeed, they had no 
 
 TRACK-BOAT — BRUGES. 5 
 
 reason to behave otherwise, for we were upon our 
 honour with them in every respect. A small per 
 centage was paid for the carriage, and we were 
 free. 
 
 Matters being thus settled, we took our passage 
 on board a track- boat for the town of Bruges. The 
 boat was full of people, young and old, rich and 
 poor. The evening smiled, and the effect of all was 
 pleasing. It was impossible not to recognize here 
 the land of Cuyp ; and the scenes through which 
 we glided, lighted up, as they were, with the 
 beams of the setting sun, strongly recalled to our 
 recollection the magical productions of his pencil. 
 On board, we had a small band of music, consist- 
 ing of three girls and two men. The girls played 
 the violin, the men a bass and flute j and really 
 their music was quite delightful ! 
 
 After travell ing fifteen miles in this agreeable man- 
 ner, through a country extremely flat, but rich and 
 highly cultivated, we arrived at Bruges. This beau- 
 tiful town, in the days of its ancient importance, 
 contained 150,000 inhabitants, but now it has not 
 30,000 at the utmost ; and several of the splendid 
 houses and palaces are tenantless. The opening 
 of the Scheldt destroyed its commerce, and the in. 
 habitants were obliged to go where trade was 
 flourishing. We are living in the hotel called the 
 Fleur de Bled, and every thing is comfortable, 
 though not so clean as in our own good country. 
 We have formed acquaintance with a gentleman 
 
 «t£ AA>-i'/.if,a 
 
6 
 
 SCENERY — CATHEDRAL. 
 
 who knows every nook and corner of the city. At 
 our request he led us first to what is called the 
 Tower, that, previous to any particular excursion, 
 we might obtain some general idea of the situation 
 and principal features of the surrounding scenery ; 
 nor is it possible, without going to an elevated 
 station, to obtain a just or comprehensive notion of 
 the country of the Netherlands, or to ascertain, 
 without much unnecessary labour, the objects most 
 worthy of notice, or the points of view from which 
 they may be seen or drawn to advantage. The 
 extensive scene was rich in wood and cultivation ; 
 few villages appeared, but every thing bespoke 
 comfort, peace, and plenty. From the fields 
 near the town, I was charmed with the variety and 
 beauty of the public buildings, and the handsome 
 spires and steeples. The tower on which we stood 
 is singular and picturesque, and the churches of 
 Jerusalem and Notre Dame are noble features. 
 
 On entering the cathedral, every thing was en- 
 tirely new to me. No priest was present, but va- 
 rious descriptions of persons were on their knees ; 
 some were in lonely places, in order to be free 
 from interruption ; often their attitudes were beau- 
 tiful and interesting ; some with outspread arms, 
 others with clasped hands, praying with the utmost 
 fervour, and generally, as their fancy inclined 
 them, before pictures, sculpture, or tapestry. At 
 the high altar, there was a representation of the 
 
 NUNNERY. 
 
 Virgin and Child, in wax, both coloured and dres- 
 sed like dolls, and not much larger than those 
 which our little misses carry in their arms. 
 A multitude of suppliants surrounded the altar, 
 which was decorated with votive offerings in silver 
 and gold, representing heads, legs, arms, and 
 hearts, which had been cured by prayers before the 
 Virgin. The hearts prevailed three to one, from 
 which your philosophical head will probably infer 
 that, in all countries, the heart-ach is the most pre- 
 valent malady ; and as a grave divine might per- 
 haps, with as much reason, conclude that religion 
 is its most effectual cure. Innumerable small 
 candles were burning, though it was then mid-day, 
 and the sun was shining in the church ; — a third 
 light seemed yet awanting, and that was the light 
 of reason. 
 
 The pictures in the cathedral were not much 
 above mediocrity. One or two had just arrived 
 from the Louvre ; and 1 confess it excited my 
 surprise, that the French should have thought of 
 removing such indifferent productions of the pen- 
 cil. We visited various other churches, and found 
 their internal appearance much alike. From the 
 churches we were taken to a nunnery. On pre- 
 senting ourselves at the grate, in a small outer 
 room which is approached through a court-yard, 
 the Abbess appeared with gracious smiles. Our 
 friend was known to her ; and, after a little re- 
 
NUNNERY. 
 
 NUNNERY. 
 
 9 
 
 spectful compliment and inquiry, he asked if xce 
 might be allowed to see the chapel. With great 
 politeness she consented. Her manner, which 
 was such as shewed she knew the world, correct- 
 ed in some degree the dismal ideas that we had 
 formed of the monastic life. Availing ourselves 
 of the Abbess's permission, we went to the place 
 of worship, on entering which we were struck with 
 its general air of purity and elegance. The walls 
 and seats were white ; the altar, composed of va- 
 rious marbles and precious stones, graced the head 
 of the church, at the opposite end to which was a 
 gallery. Two pictures by Vandyke hung upon 
 the walls, but they were by no means in the best 
 style of that master. The Ascension was the sub- 
 ject of one, and a saint of the other. In the for- 
 mer, the figure of Christ was tolerably drawn, and 
 possessed great brilliancy of effect ; but the dark 
 figure introduced for the purpose of aiding this 
 appearance, is so injudiciously contrived and manag- 
 ed, that the artifice is offensively evident, and inter- 
 feres with the general sentiment of the subject. 
 
 We had not been long in the chapel when 
 a nun came forward in the gallery, in a slow and 
 solemn manner, courtesying low. At first we 
 thought the compliment was intended for us, but 
 we soon perceived that her attention was directed 
 to a cross placed in the middle of the gallery. A 
 second and a third advanced in the same manner, 
 
 
 and at last several came together. When as- 
 sembled, there might be from ten to twelve ; some 
 were old, some were young, and very pale ; one 
 seemed extremely beautiful. After they had been 
 seated a short time, a novice rose and rung the 
 convent bell, the rope of which hung from the roof 
 in the middle of the gallery. We stopped no 
 longer, fearing we might give offence; but who 
 could resist remaining in the outer room while 
 they chaunted service ? It was affecting, and most 
 sincerely did I wish that God might bless them. 
 But what can I say of their voluntary retreat from 
 the duties of the world ? Their self-denial may be a 
 virtue, but I fear of little value. Lately several ro- 
 mantic ladies, two of whom, indeed, were relations of 
 the gentleman who accompanied us, had formed the 
 resolution of becoming nuns, but they soon changed 
 their minds, and only one of six remained. On 
 taking the veil, they must advance L.6OO ; and, at 
 their demise, their fortunes become the property of 
 the establishment. When monastic institutions 
 were suppressed by Bonaparte, this nunnery was 
 spared, in consideration of its educating some 
 young females gratis, and being in other respects 
 most exemplary. 
 
 To-morrow early we set off for Ghent and Brus- 
 sels ; from the latter place you may expect to hear 
 from me. 
 
GHENT — ALOST. 
 
 11 
 
 I 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 ChenU^Church of Saint Brevon.— Scenery — Alost.-^Brus- 
 sels.-^Cathedral— Peter the Great.— High Mass. 
 
 Brussels^ July 1816. 
 
 The country through which we travelled from 
 Bruges to Ghent was rich in various crops, some 
 of which were already cut down ; barley and rye 
 seemed to prevail. The roads were excellent, 
 paved in the middle, but by no means rough. 
 
 Ghent is a town of considerable extent, and of 
 great beauty. The canals which intersect it, co- 
 vered with boats and barges, afford the finest sub- 
 jects for the pencil. Vangoen, or Vanderneer, 
 could have been at no loss in choosing from such 
 variety. The cathedral and churches are very 
 fine, especially the church of Saint Brevon, which, 
 it is said, is the oldest cathedral church in the 
 world. The Crypt was the original place of wor- 
 ship, and is full of rotten pictures and mouldering 
 saints. The present cathedral, which is very an- 
 cient, was built on the foundations of the old, and 
 the crypt, which I have mentioned, is preserved 
 in its primitive state. In the church, there are 
 some specimens of the early school of sculpture, 
 in very bad taste, frittered into small parts, and 
 
 ft. 
 
 devoid of all resemblance to nature. The pic- 
 tures, in general, are by masters of no celebrity or 
 talent, and excite disgust rather than pleasure. 
 As for the wax dolls, I did not look at them a se- 
 cond time, lest I should be tempted to smile, when 
 decorum required that I should be serious. Some 
 of the public buildings are rather elegant, and 
 there is a good display of steeples in the simple 
 Gothic style. We mounted one of them to obtain 
 a view of the country, which, in its general cha- 
 racter, bears a remarkable resemblance to the rich 
 and splendid scenery which we saw from the tower 
 of Bruges. Waterloo and Hobbima might have 
 lived a hundred years, and not have exhausted the 
 pleasing local subjects. Here they had endless 
 variety of willow stumps, rich plants, and spark- 
 ling water, and the most interesting groups of 
 cattle and rustic figures, composing with the mea- 
 dow fields and long horizons ; such, indeed, as 
 Paul Potter, or Adrian Vanderveldt, needed only 
 to copy faithfully, to have rendered their fame 
 immortal. 
 
 Our stay at Ghent was very short, which I re- 
 gretted much, as I knew that there were some 
 private pictures of the Flemish masters, well de- 
 serving our attention. 
 
 Alost, on the way to Brussels, is a pretty town. 
 Trees mix with the buildings, which always have 
 a good effect. We saw no beggars, but among the 
 
12 
 
 BRUSSELS CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PETER THE GREAT. 
 
 13 
 
 .'4 '■ 
 
 children, who seem to be all beggars in this country, 
 without exception, and whose importunity is ex- 
 tremely teasing. I pinched the ear of one, who 
 was dressed like a little gentleman, and gave some 
 money to a boy in rags, who was standing near, 
 and was less clamorous. Mi/ Dutch was under- 
 stood ; the youth in fine clothes blushed and scam- 
 pered off. — Between Alost and Brussels, the crops 
 were very luxuriant ; they consisted chiefly of 
 hops and rye. Boys, from fifteen to seventeen 
 years of age, were repairing the roads, and did 
 their business well. 
 
 Brussels is certainly a noble town, and many 
 of the buildings are in excellent taste. But why so 
 many sky-lights? The roof of the Hotel de Ville, 
 which is very high, has no less than five successive 
 rows, rising one above another. The cathedral, 
 with its two towers, like Westminster Abbey, is 
 well placed to give effect to the city, which is 
 spread below, but the disproportioned height of 
 the roof diminishes the consequence of the other 
 parts of the building. There is also a strange 
 jumbling of parts, out of harmony even with the 
 Gothic. In general, the houses are very hand- 
 some, but within they display no purity of taste ; 
 there is too much ornament, — too great an ambi- 
 tion of vulgar show. Of the gallery I can say 
 but little. No doubt, there are a few good pic- 
 tures, but certainly not of the first class. The 
 
 i 
 
 best are those by Rubens. They have all the 
 mastery of pencilling and witchery of colour pecu- 
 liar to that master ; but they also have his defects • 
 bustle and power of handling cannot conceal the 
 want of drawing, and the mean conception of his 
 female figures. I regret to say that they have 
 been considerably injured, and cannot be repaired 
 without being partially repainted. 
 
 You will be little gratified, I fear, by this 
 imperfect account of a gallery so famous, and 
 may naturally expect, that I should say some- 
 thing of the private collections in Brussels ; but 
 our stay here was necessarily so short, that we 
 had leisure for no more than a passing glance ;— 
 a circumstance which we regretted the less, as 
 we could more easily repeat our visit to this 
 town, than to the more distant places, to which 
 we are hastening. Do not fear, from this spe- 
 cimen, that I shall not endeavour to be particu- 
 lar in my description of the celebrated works of 
 art, in which you feel so deep an interest, when 
 we reach the cities which are the proper objects of 
 our destination. 
 
 From these beauties of art, we were led to 
 the public gardens, where there is a fountain, 
 immortalized by the circumstance of Peter the 
 Great having tumbled into it. He was drink- 
 ing wine when he made this false step, and it is 
 
 i|f 
 
Ljw. 
 
 14 
 
 HIGH MASS. 
 
 but fair to suppose that his Majesty was a little 
 
 tipsey. 
 
 We are just returned from seeing high mass 
 performed. Why such parading, courtesying, bow- 
 ing, muttering, crossing, and perfuming of the 
 priests ? And must the soldiers kneel, cross them- 
 selves, and pray by word of command ? How like 
 mummery is all this ! But the congregation ap- 
 peared devout, so let me not presume to censure. 
 1 have occasionally amused myself at a ball, by 
 shutting my ears, which gave to my happy dan- 
 cing friends the appearance of automata. So the 
 ceremonies of the Roman Catholic Church, to one 
 not accustomed to its mysteries, must ever appear 
 fantastic and unnatural. 
 
 ? 
 
 - 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 JVaterloo.^Field of battle — Namur Huy Liege.-— Aix- 
 
 la- Chapelle, — Cologne, 
 
 Cologne, July 1816. 
 We left Brussels on the 11th, and arrived here 
 on the 13th, after having visited the awful field of 
 Waterloo. The forest of Soigne has nothing re- 
 markable in its appearance. The road from Brus- 
 sels, as you well know, passes through it. After the 
 battle it became a burial place for upwards of two 
 thousand horses. They were interred along the sides 
 of the road, and partly in the wood. Their bones 
 are now shooting througli the earth, and the air is 
 much infected. Waterloo is a pretty little village, 
 and the church, which for a considerable time ap- 
 peared a pleasing vista from the road, is very pic- 
 turesque. Service was performing when we arriv- 
 ed, and it was pleasing and affecting to see the 
 peasantry peacefully engaged in their religious 
 duties, after the scourge of war and battle. The 
 tablets to the memory of many of our countrymen 
 caught our eye, and failed not to excite our deep- 
 est interest. From Waterloo we went to visit the 
 field of battle. We saw the shattered tree near which 
 our immortal hero stood, at the happy moment 
 
 b^lUi^i^iM^^aas^^^S^^iiiUk^^Hgg 
 
IG 
 
 FIELD OF BATTLE, 
 
 NAMUR HUY. 
 
 17 
 
 when he saw the Prussians advancuig, led on by 
 Bulow. The barn, farm, and fields of La Haye 
 Sainte, exhibited striking memorials of the horrors 
 of that dreadful day •, especially the barn, the walls 
 of which are friglitfully splashed with blood,— and 
 well they might, for the floor, which is of great ex- 
 tent, was ancle deep ! The field of burial would 
 affect the hardest heart : although under crop, the 
 graves are quite perceptible by the rank dark green 
 corn which waves over them. The heroes were 
 buried at various distances, according to the havoc 
 and destruction on the spot. Some of the graves 
 were six, eight, ten, and twelve feet asunder, but 
 they thinned as they receded from the point where 
 the battle raged in its greatest fury, — as the thunder 
 of artillery, which bursts at first in one rending 
 peal upon the ear, gradually dies away in faint and 
 distant echoes. One poor Frenchman was yet un- 
 buried ! we found him lying a prey for the hun- 
 gry dogs! What could be more horrible than this 
 mouldering body in its uniform ! What a more 
 emphatic satire on the ferocity and the weakness 
 of man ! I will not shock you with the various 
 accounts which we have heard of the dead, the 
 wounded, and the dying ; even to think of them is 
 
 distressing. 
 
 The track by which Napoleon slunk away, after 
 crying " sauve qui peut," is just above the inn at 
 Genappe, upon a rising ground. Bones of men 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 and horses are lying here and there, and the ra- 
 vens may still find food upon them. At Quatre 
 Bras, the natives were eloquent in praise of the 
 gallant Highlandmen. The appearance of battle 
 is every where : not a house but is completely rid- 
 dled by bullets and by cannon shot. I looked at 
 them till my fancy was so engaged in the tumult 
 of battle, that I thought my head was hardly safe 
 upon my shoulders. 
 
 Namur, on the confluence of the Sambre and the 
 Meuse, was the next place of any consequence 
 that we visited. On approaching it, we found 
 it seated on a plain surrounded by swelling hills at 
 no great distance. These hills, although not lofty, 
 were a pleasing variety, from the monotonous coun- 
 try through which we have passed. The town 
 itself has a most agreeable character for picture ; 
 the dome and cupola are here exchanged for Gothic 
 towers and spires. Namur is celebrated for mine- 
 rals, marble, and alum. It was not till we were 
 near Namur that we perceived rocks of any kind, 
 and this suggests to my recollection, that in Bel- 
 gium we have remarked only sand, chalk, and 
 gravel. 
 
 From Namur we proceeded to Huy upon the 
 Meuse. Picturesque beauty is not wanting there. 
 The town and cathedral stand at the bottom of 
 lofty rocks, and afford the most agreeable subjects 
 for the pencil. We arrived when a few golden 
 streaks were seen behind the towers, which were 
 
 VOL, I, 
 
 B 
 
18 
 
 LIEGE — CATHEDRAL. 
 
 COLOGNE — RUBENS. 
 
 19 
 
 reflected in the expansive water. The solemn 
 and tranquil effect of all was most grateful and 
 impressive. The country from Huy to Liege is 
 hilly, well wooded, and in good cultivation. There 
 is every where an appearance of pu nty, yet beggars 
 are numerous. Choquiere, the seat of Geneml 
 Loisson, is one of the finest subjects that occur in 
 this part of our journey. It stands high upon a 
 noble bank, and overlooks the river ; the rocks are 
 picturesque ; the wood, however, is but poor and 
 
 scanty. 
 
 The entrance into Liege, as we advanced along 
 the river, presents a favourable view of the ca- 
 thedral and churches; indeed, water and trees, 
 whenever they mix with buildings, impart to them 
 a degree of interest, and never fail to please. 
 The high roof still prevails. From the multi- 
 plicity of windows I was led to suppose, that the 
 inhabitants pay no duty for window light : but I 
 was mistaken ; fifteenpence is paid for each, and for 
 a carriage entry five and twenty shillings annually. 
 There is something singular and agreeable in the 
 architecture, though, perhaps, it is somewhat disfi- 
 gured by too great a profusion of ornament. 
 
 We were told that the finest collection of paint- 
 ings was in the cathedral. ITie picture by Lairesse, 
 representing Moses with the Commandments, is per- 
 haps the best : some of the heads are painted in a firm 
 and masterly style, but the figures are crowded to- 
 
 I 
 
 gether in an awkward manner, and totally destitute 
 of dignity. The picture by Carlier is deep-toned, 
 but spotty and affected. Quilline is a master of 
 some merit in the soft style of Murillo, but much 
 inferior. The subjects are all scriptural, and very 
 tiresome. 
 
 There is nothing very striking in the scenery 
 between Liege and Aix la Chapelle. I would 
 almost prefer the positive level of the Netherlands, 
 which, from its unbroken line, is somewhat allied 
 to beauty. The ancient city of Charlemagne looks 
 well from the ramparts. The Hotel de Ville, the 
 Cathedral, and other buildings, assemble well to- 
 gether, and I think may fairly claim the attention 
 of the man of taste. 
 
 Cologne, the birth place of Rubens, received us 
 next within its ancient walls. The church of St 
 Peter contains the celebrated picture of the crucifix- 
 ion of that saint. When I entered the church, I was 
 on the tip-toe of expectation. The picture is con- 
 sidered one of the chef d'oeuvres of Rubens' pen- 
 cil, and was in high estimation in the Louvre. 
 We were told it graced the high altar ; but con- 
 ceive my disappointment, when, on approaching it 
 with an anxious eye, I found a very indifferent 
 copy. I was turning from it in disgust, wlu^n 
 the verger requested me to stop; and, without 
 any ceremony, he removed silver candlesticks, 
 flowers, and all the paraphernalia of Roman Ca- 
 
20 
 
 CRUCIFIXION OF ST PETER BY RUBENS. 
 
 tholic worship, which stood before the copy, and 
 then went behind the altar, and turned round 
 upon a swivel the painting by Rubens. It was 
 like the sun rising in splendour, and appeared 
 the finest picture 1 ever saw of that great master. 
 The principal figure is generally well drawn, with- 
 out the slightest approach to vulgarity or manner- 
 ism. In colour it is faultless, and the effect is 
 striking and commanding, although seen under a 
 window of stained glass, with all the bustle and 
 arrogance of meretricious brilliancy. The principal 
 light is in the middle of the picture on the breast 
 of St Peter, of a warm yellowish fleshy tone. The 
 opposing figures are swarthy and brown, one of 
 them with a little drapery purely red ; blue and 
 cold colours appear at the top and sides of the pic- 
 ture. As a proof of the veneration which the 
 people of Cologne have for this magnificent work 
 of art, I may inform you that, when it returned 
 from the Louvre, it was carried in procession 
 through the streets, and in front of the house of 
 Rubens, where Professor Hardie delivered an 
 eloquent oration on its merit : when it was taken 
 to the church of St Peter, it was received by all 
 the clergy in full costume, and with as much cere- 
 mony as if it had been St Peter himself that was 
 visiting them. 
 
 This picture was a present to the church in which 
 Rubens was baptized, and had its day of adversity. 
 
 RUBENS — PILP KALF. 
 
 21 
 
 The priests, ignorant of its merit and its value, 
 placed it in some obscure place without any regard 
 to its preservation : this circumstance reaching the 
 ear of Rubens, he offered 5000 crowns to have it 
 returned to him, assuring them it was one of the 
 best pictures he had ever painted. The priests be- 
 gan to stare ; and, awakened at length to a sense of 
 the value, if not the merit, of the treasure which they 
 possessed, they determined to keep it to themselves. 
 They have done so, but the gentle hint has been 
 the means of preserving the picture from destruc- 
 tion. — The font in which Rubens was baptized is 
 shewn with great pride. 
 
 From the church we went to the house in which 
 that great painter lived, No. 10, Rue de Tival. At 
 present it is occupied by a coachmaker, who very po- 
 litely shewed us every room. It is an excellent house 
 still, and there is a good deal of ancient carving in 
 one of the rooms, in which Mary of Medicis, after 
 being forced to quit Paris, lived and died. She sub- 
 sisted on the charity of the monks, for whom she 
 entertained the most bigoted devotion ; the leaden 
 roof remains on which she walked. 
 
 In the cathedral we were shewn a picture by 
 Filp Kalf, date 406, a painter of whom I never 
 heard. The drawing and colouring are excellent, 
 and in design it is not inferior; the subject is 
 the adoration of the Magi. Can you imagine 
 a work of Guido founded in some degree on a 
 
22 
 
 FILP KALF — SCULLS OF KINGS. 
 
 SCULLS OF KINGS. 
 
 23 
 
 fine specimen of Albert Durer? This will en- 
 able you to form some idea of the picture. In 
 colour it is fresh as day, and Rubens himself 
 might have been proud to own it. The Prince 
 Royal of Prussia is getting a copy of part of the 
 picture executed by an artist of Cologne. As far 
 as he has gone, he is much inferior ; spare and 
 meagre in his colouring, without surface or that 
 transparency which appears in the texture of the 
 original. When the French were ransacking every 
 church for celebrated works of art, the bishop had 
 this picture covered with wax to hide it from their 
 sacrilegious eyes. During the revolution, how- 
 ever, when Cologne was French, the clergy had 
 the wax taken of, and hung up the picture, which 
 the French government allowed to remain. So 
 much for Filp Kalf, who, had he lived in the golden 
 age of art, might have been not inferior to Raphael 
 or Correggio. In some of the private houses I have 
 seen many pictures of very early date, surprising in 
 richness and colour, but in general very ill drawn, 
 and as ill conceived. The beau ideal excited a 
 little risibility ; grace and purity of taste was ac- 
 quired by slow degrees. Notwithstanding their 
 many faults, however, I could trace in them several 
 plagiarisms of Rubens and Vandyke. 
 
 I should have mentioned, that, in the ca- 
 thedral may be seen the sculls of three kings 
 who were said to have worshipped at the birth 
 
 I 
 
 of our Saviour. They were brought from Mi- 
 lan at the sacking of that city, and presented to 
 the church by the Duke of Haenstoffen. I saw 
 them not, notwithstanding they have rubies stuck 
 in the sockets of their eyes. The manner of ex- 
 hibiting them is rather curious. First a huge key 
 is taken to open a door that leads to a coffer, which 
 requires a second key to open it ; this coffer con- 
 tains a third key, which, being presented to a door 
 within, discloses another coffer with a fourth key ; 
 this must be inserted into a padlock, which con- 
 tains the key of the mysterious door leading to three 
 white sculls adorned with precious stones ! The 
 names of the three kings were Caspor, Melihior, 
 and Balthasav* 
 
LETTER IV. 
 
 Husbandry— Bonn — Flying Bridge — Andemach — Coblentt 
 — Neideringelheim — Castles on the Rhine — Mayance^^ 
 Manheim — Heidelberg — Inns — Baden — Assembly — Anec- 
 dote of Napoleon — Anecdote of the Prince of Baden* 
 
 Baderiy July 18 1 6. 
 Jtrom Cologne to Bonn the country is flat, and 
 presents few pleasing or interesting features. The 
 roads are good ; and in travelling along the Rhine 
 the eye is gratified with some variety. The vine- 
 yards, however, do not contribute to the beauty of 
 the scenery, any more than as many currant bushes. 
 The vine is low, and totally devoid of picturesque 
 effect. Husbandry, in all its details, seems to be 
 here in a veiy backward state. Oxen, and some- 
 times even cows, are used instead of horses, to drag 
 the heavy and unwieldy carts of the country. I 
 sincerely wish some kind Briton would send the 
 Germans a plough and a good model of a cart. 
 Not a thrashing-machine is here to be seen. In 
 short, they are a hundred years behind ; yet the 
 country looks well, and the crops, thanks to the 
 fertility of the soil, are good. Their hay-fork is 
 made exactly after the model of Neptune's trident. 
 Bonn is a pretty town. Some of the buildings 
 
 FLYING BRIDGE— ANDERNACH. 
 
 £5 
 
 are regular and good ; but the views on the Rhine 
 are overpowered by the size of the river ; the dis- 
 tant banks, and hills, and castles, shrink into 
 nothing, and require to be assisted by the aid of 
 stormy skies. This is all I can say of Bonn, 
 and of the surrounding scenery. The flyino- 
 bridge, or float, is curious, and large enough to 
 take over 700 or 800 people at a time. It does 
 not go across the river with its prow foremost, but, 
 being moored to anchors in the middle of the 
 river, it swings from one side to another, according 
 to the direction of the helm, the current of the 
 water being the only impelling force. It, of course, 
 invariably arrives at the precise point of its desti- 
 nation, and generally in the same space of time. 
 
 On our way from Bonn to Andernach, we met 
 with some fine subjects for the painter. Of these, 
 the most interesting was an island containing I 
 convent. It had all the appearance of a happy 
 island,— crowned with lofty trees, beneath the shade 
 of which the nuns might walk unseen, and enjoy 
 the scenery. Its reflection in the river was un- 
 broken and serene, saving a line of silver light, 
 produced by a pendent branch, which hung on'the 
 glassy surface of the water. Rhynic, too, which 
 stands upon a lofty bank, will not be passed with- 
 out regret, if time will not permit delineation. 
 
 Andernach, with its steeples and curious towers 
 affords a choice of picture seldom to be surpassed! 
 
26 
 
 ANDERNACH — COBLENTZ. 
 
 COBLENTZ— NEIDERINGELHEIM. 
 
 Tl 
 
 The towns which we have hitherto seen are mostly 
 fortified, and the outworks are extremely beauti- 
 ful, reminding one of the paintings of our favour- 
 ite masters. We have only seen one intoxicated 
 person since we came into this country. Indeed, the 
 peasantry seem an honest, sober, and devout set of 
 people. Yet we have been told, and by one that 
 knows them well, that, after a hearty prayer or 
 two, they think they have atoned for former sin, 
 and are at liberty to proceed upon another score. 
 If this charge is true, their appearance and exter- 
 nal deportment are abundantly deceitful. I can- 
 not soon forget a poor infirm old woman, whom I 
 saw in a lonely sequestered church-yard, praying 
 with much apparent fervour before a crucifix ; her 
 withered arms stretched out and opposed to the 
 last golden streaks of the setting sun. She cer- 
 tainly was sincere, and who would not have wished 
 that heaven might protect her ? 
 
 On leaving Andernach, we found the banks of 
 the Rhine studded with castles, some of them very 
 picturesque, but generally much alike in situation 
 and in fonn, and built upon a similar plan. The 
 same high watch tower springs up in all of them. 
 
 CoBLENTZ presents, to the man of taste, innumer- 
 able attractive subjects of study. The buildings, 
 generally, are good, and associate well together. 
 The Rhine Hows beneath the walls, and brings up 
 vessels of various descriptions, which take their part 
 
 with other objects, and form delightful composi- 
 tions. The Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, in airy 
 mantle, crowns the whole. This famous castle was 
 destroyed by the French, along with every other 
 building of note in the neighbourhood. Near the 
 scene of ruin, there is a monument erected by the 
 French, in commemoration of the Russian cam- 
 paign under Napoleon the Great, in the year 181^. 
 Underneath is written : " Seen and approved of by 
 the Russian commandant at Coblentz, 1814.** 
 The towns are very unlike those of Scotland, sin- 
 gularly shaped and whimsical, both in their exter- 
 nal and external appearance, with projecting roofs 
 and narrow streets. 
 
 From Coblentz we proceeded to St Goar. The 
 banks of the majestic Rhine are still covered with 
 castles, villages, and towns ; but what appears most 
 remarkable to the traveller is the extent and luxu- 
 riance of the vineyards. Where can a market be 
 found for all the wine which they must produce ? 
 The Rhenish wine from the butt is good. Hock 
 is seldom met with by the traveller. The best is 
 said to be made on the estate which now belongs to 
 Marshal Blucher. 
 
 The village of Neideringelheim has little to re- 
 commend it, except the ruins of the Palace of 
 Charlemagne. Of the marble pillars which once 
 adorned it, none remain but a few paltry fragments 
 in the church. Nevertheless, insignificant as they 
 
28 
 
 CASTLES ON THE RHINE— MAYANCE. 
 
 MANHEIM HEIDELBERG. 
 
 29 
 
 appear, they will excite much interest, as associated 
 with the memory of that illustrious prince. 
 
 1 write to my friend as occasion will permit. On 
 looking over my Journal, I find I have not noticed 
 some of the villages, towns, and castles, which ap- 
 peared to me to be admirable subjects for drawing. 
 Capella, beyond Coblentz, Brawbach, Castle Mause, 
 town of Wilmich, and llheinfels, are all interest- 
 ing ; but they are eclipsed by the Castle of Rhin- 
 vald, whose varied towers and crumbling walls 
 are irresistibly attractive to the painter. The 
 castles of Rhinvald and Ehrenbreitstein, however, 
 are the only two which can be compared to our 
 magnificent castles in Wales. Though many of 
 the others are very large, still they want that ap- 
 pearance of grandeur and strength, which so de- 
 cidedly characterizes our noble buildings. At 
 Bucharac are the remains of a Gothic chapel, situ- 
 ate above the town, upon a gently sloping hill, and 
 well worthy of a little study. 
 
 Mayance we merely passed through, and crossed 
 its bridge of boats. As a town, it is superior to 
 Coblentz. The churches and the steeples are pe- 
 culiar, but their red colour is not agreeable to the 
 eye, especially as there is no green to harmonize 
 with it. There was considerable bustle in the 
 river ; numerous boats and barges were plying in 
 various directions, which gave it life and spirit. 
 The white and fleecy clouds, when they appeared be- 
 
 hind the buildings, neutralized them, and rendered 
 their colour more agreeable. 
 
 Manheim might perhaps be denominated a 
 handsome town, were not the streets so much alike, 
 that it is scarcely possible to distinguish one from 
 another. The palace of the Duke of Baden is 
 very extensive, but in bad repair. Its gallery of 
 pictures is indifferent ; and I may truly say, that, 
 with the exception of half a dozen, the rest are 
 trash. A little picture by Waterloo pleased me 
 much ; the subject was, a few trees, with a wind- 
 ing road and figures ; the whole was well expressed, 
 and finished without apparent labour. Indeed, I 
 was surprised to see such a mellow production from 
 the hand of such a master. The picture of Christ 
 before Pilate, by Rembrandt, is the finest in the gal- 
 lery, and may be said to shine among the dark 
 and dismal works around it. I was pleased to see, 
 in one apartment, a fine collection of the best 
 English prints. Woolett's engravings seemed to 
 be the favourites ; they were elegantly framed, 
 and some were proofs, on Indian paper. Former' 
 ly there was an academy in the palace, but it is 
 now neglected. The Prince prefers smoking and 
 drinking to encouraging the arts, or even to other 
 duties of high importance. 
 
 Heidelberg was the next place of any note that 
 we visited. Its castle and palace are superb, and 
 far surpass in grandeur any thing we have yet seen 
 
so 
 
 HEIDELBERG INNS. 
 
 BADEN ANECDOTE OF NAPOLEON. 
 
 31 
 
 in Germany. Their commanding situation, upon 
 the hill which overlooks the town, is peculiarly 
 striking ; and perhaps there are few objects better 
 adapted to gratify the admirer either of beautiful 
 nature or superior art. From the garden of the 
 palace,— the composition of the buildings, with the 
 flat country below ; the sweeping river, reflecting 
 the morning sun ; the town enveloped in the curl- 
 ing smoke ; the bridge and wooded banks are quite 
 complete, and defy the pencil to surpass their 
 charms. Of course, we saw the famous tun, now 
 without a drop of wine. The French must have 
 drunk hard, to have emptied such a wooden tower. 
 Our stay at Heidelberg was very short. Hither- 
 to we have found the inns extremely comfortable ; 
 yet I wish that they were furnished with bells ; or 
 at least that those which are put up, were rendered 
 serviceable. We have seen none that could be 
 rung ; and, to our surprise, we found a swallow's 
 nest upon the hinge of one at Carlsruhe, in the 
 principal room for strangers. The dress of the 
 peasantry, male and female, is very fantastical, and 
 extremely unbecoming. The men wear large 
 cocked hats, while working in the fields ; and the 
 women are bundled up in such a quantity of clothes 
 as entirely disguises their shape, and makes them ap- 
 pear as if they wore hoops. Theirhats, too, areofa 
 monstrous size, flat, and like a sieve upon their heads. 
 Poppies, generally bearing a pale pink flower, seem 
 
 to be the principal crop, poppy oil being an article 
 in great request. Small chapels and crucifixes are 
 very numerous along the roads, and seem to be 
 regarded with great reverence. I remember only 
 one instance of mud being thrown at them. 
 
 Baden, a celebrated watering-place, will eno-ao'e 
 us for a day. It is seated among lofty wooded 
 banks, and is as gay and lively as one can well ima- 
 gine. Balls, fairs, libraries, public walks, and 
 fashionable amusements, occupy the fleeting hours. 
 We attended a grand assembly in the palace, where 
 there were several princes, princesses, and nobility 
 of various ranks and fortunes ; and, notwithstanding 
 the decorations of stars and ribbons, they were a sor- 
 17-looking set. In general the German ladies were 
 not superior in appearance to the hostesses of our 
 public- houses. The men were rather better ; but, 
 really, an ancient German baron is not the most 
 magnificent thing that we can see. The Duchess 
 of Ragusa eclipsed every figure of female kind ; 
 and, consequently, the glances of envy were seen 
 flying from the strangest forms ! There were, how- 
 ever, some pretty girls, and we found the Prince 
 Royal of Baden chose them for his partners in 
 the waltzes. The ball was on a Sunday evening ! 
 
 Among the principal characters was the Coun- 
 tess of L , who, I am informed, was so irreat 
 
 a favourite of Murat's, that his queen thought pro- 
 per to be a little jealous, and complained of her to 
 
 ■ 
 
32 
 
 ANECDOTE OF THE PRINCE OF BADEN. 
 
 Napoleon, who gallantly threatened to insult the 
 countess on the first opportunity that occurred. 
 One evening, in his palace, he accidentally spilt 
 some coffee on a lady's dress, and, turning to make 
 his apology, he was suddenly smitten with her 
 beauty. A pretty little flirtation commenced, in 
 consequence of which he lost his heart. His fair 
 
 conqueror was no other than the Countess L , 
 
 and his imperial majesty became the humble slave 
 of the lady whom he had rashly threatened to af- 
 front. In return for her sweet and condescending 
 manners^ he married her to the Count of L. The 
 Countess is now a widow, and, if I am not mis- 
 taken, is still employed by the God of Love to 
 subdue the unwary heart. 
 
 Since I am in the way of gossiping, let me 
 tell you that the Princess of Baden, daughter 
 of Josephine, was forced upon the prince by 
 Bonaparte, though his dislike for her was very 
 great. Indeed, his highness would not live with 
 her when Napoleon was in power, but no sooner 
 was he forsaken by fortune, than he drew her to 
 his bosom, and now imagines there is no such 
 woman in the world. What think you of the mag- 
 nanimity of this smoking prince ? 
 
 The number of petty princes in Germany is much 
 deplored by enlightened people. All of them are 
 poor, which enables rich offenders to escape from jus- 
 tice. The other day a wealthy Jew committed mur- 
 
 ANCIENT CASTLE OF BADEN. 
 
 33 
 
 der ; he confessed the deed and w as condemned ; 
 but his wealth afterwards purchased his acquittal. 
 Now he is quite at large, following his pursuits as 
 usual. Thank heaven! there are no such doinss 
 in good Old England ! 
 
 The ancient castle of Baden stands on a roman- 
 tic hill clothed with wood, forming part of the 
 Black Forest. It is now a solitary ruin, and pro- 
 digious trees wave against its time-worn sides. On 
 entering the subterraneous passages and dismal vaults, 
 I heard the most tender strains of music ; it was 
 like enchantment for a time, and greatly excited 
 my surprise ; at last I discovered that it was the 
 harpof ^olus — seemingto mourn forancient times. 
 Tlie instrument had been placed among the crumb- 
 ling walls by an Englishman of taste and feeling. 
 Adieu ; you shall hear from me when I reach 
 Geneva. 
 
 VOL. T. 
 
HYRCANIAN FOREST. — BASLE. 
 
 35 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 Black ForesU-^-Hyrcanian ForesL^Basle.-^Holbein^Swiss 
 Painters.— Scenery between Basle and Soleure.—Alps,-^ 
 Swiss Cottages,— Orbe.— Lausanne.— Lake of Geneva.— 
 Geneva.— Arve and Rhone.— Landscape-Painters, 
 
 We left Baden on the 29th of July, and passed 
 along the verge of the Black Forest, through many 
 small and pretty towns. It was a market-day at 
 Offenburg, and never certainly did I behold a more 
 singular and strange looking peasantry. The 
 women resembled bales of cloth, without fonn or 
 shape, and the girls seemed bundles of the same 
 material ; not a pretty face was to be seen among 
 them, old or young. 
 
 The character of the Black Forest, as seen 
 from our road at the distance of four miles, 
 was very picturesque. Castles appear on the tops 
 of the hills, relieved by mountains covered with 
 pines ; behind them, the clouds frisked about, and 
 offered, to our hearts content, incidental effects of 
 the most delightful and varied character. I was 
 as busy sketching in my mind, as if I had se- 
 riously set to work with my paper and my pencil. 
 The steeple of Fribourg is singularly beautiful ; 
 the spire, perforated in various ornaments, gives it 
 a surprising elegance and lightness. From Fri- 
 
 bourg the Vosges on the right edge the rich and 
 lovely plain of Alsace. All the mountains of the 
 Hyrcanian Forest, on the left, except a few cul- 
 tivated patches, are covered to the very tops with 
 brushwood. The wild boar's haunts would be the 
 painter's, were he safe from that ferocious animal. 
 
 No separation of property appears ; and, indeed, 
 the traveller might suppose himself in a nobleman's 
 domains. There are no detached cottages, for the 
 peasantry live in villages. The better sort of houses 
 have a grand appearance, yet they are without com- 
 fort. Many of them are picturesque, but the wood- 
 work in all is very clumsy and heavy, probably be- 
 cause timber is so abundant, that it may be had even 
 for the cutting. When wood is scarce and dear, the 
 smallest piece is turned to good account ; and light- 
 ness and elegance are often suggested by necessity. 
 Till wood becomes less plentiful, I am afraid we 
 must not look for taste in German habitations. 
 
 The approach to Basle in Switzerland is delight- 
 ful to the eye ; the Rhine flows among rich mea- 
 dows and fields of golden grain. As a town, Basle 
 is by no means handsome. The streets are narrow, 
 the houses white, with roofs of dark brown tiles ; 
 even from the river, including the ten arched 
 bridge, it forms no picture. 
 
 In the principal library we saw some curious 
 manuscripts, the proceedings of the Council of Basle, 
 the Epistles of Erasmus, and other learned men, 
 the four Evangelists in Greek of the tenth century, 
 &c. 
 
36 
 
 HOLBEIN. SWISS PAINTERS. 
 
 Holbein was a native of Basle, and it contains 
 many of his works. In the library, in particular, 
 several of them are to be seen : the cabinet, on 
 which is painted Christ's passion, is extremely 
 beautiful, without hardness. I was surprised to 
 find a work of so much ease and splendour i'rom 
 the hand of this master, whose works, in general, 
 are rather deficient in ease. His pictures of Eras- 
 mus and Sir Thomas More are full of nature. 
 
 A panorama of the Lac de Thun is on exhibition 
 here, and, like the works of all the Swiss artists, is 
 full of minute and trifling detail, without point 
 or story ; an insipid catalogue of objects, in which 
 no one takes the lead. Why do they neglect the 
 machinery of nature in such a country ? Can they 
 not seize the stormy skies, and fling them among 
 the lofty pinnacles, and oppose the dark and solemn 
 pines to virgin snows ? Is the train of grandeur to 
 be despised ? Have the awful mountains, and stu- 
 pendous precipices, no claims to those ghastly 
 lights which, struggling in their progress from the 
 sun through the clouds and storms of such su- 
 blime regions, reflect, as it were, upon the soul of 
 man, and impress it with horror ? Shame on the 
 narrow mmd that can see only a vapid outline, and 
 paltry littleness ! 
 
 From Basle we travelled to Soleure, meeting 
 with castles, and ever-varying scenery. Some of 
 the deep vales were clothed with black pine, and 
 bounded by mountains of the deepest blue, with 
 
 BASLE TO SOLEURE. ALPS. 
 
 37 
 
 mists and clouds clinging to their sides, and some- 
 times flying off with their feathery edges, tinged 
 with the setting sun ;— exciting in our minds the 
 most romantic reveries. Imagine among these quiet 
 and solitary scenes of grandeur, when, but one line 
 of golden light was left to contend with purple 
 darkness, the effect of the solemn toll of a cathe- 
 dral bell, heard from afar. Ah ! why, I know not ; 
 but it drew forth our tears. 
 
 The marble church of Soleure is very beautiful, 
 and in good proportion ; but marble does not 
 please the eye so well as stone : it always inter- 
 feres with other objects, and, as far as relates to 
 landscape scenery, is too white and overpowering. 
 On lofty mountains, however, and in dashing cata- 
 racts, white will always be agreeable, because it is 
 natural. 
 
 Our first view of the Alps of the Grisons, with 
 the young Frow piercing the horizontal clouds, 
 was from the Lac de Bienne. Pictures give no 
 idea of them, and I fear never can. The mind is 
 struck with the wonderful work of God. Awe, 
 solemn awe, fills the soul, in looking at these sub- 
 lime productions of his hand. When the sun was 
 set to the world below, and the blue smoke of the 
 peaceful cottage was ascending through gloomy 
 shade, the Alps were glowing in the heavens ! The 
 cottages of Switzerland are so well known to you, 
 that I need not attempt to describe them ; be it 
 suflScient to say, that, as subjects for picture, they 
 
38 
 
 SWISS COTTAGES. — LAUSANNE. 
 
 are quite inimitable ; but I must confess, I should 
 in general prefer a part of one, with its interesting 
 details, instead of a whole. The roof is often too 
 high and unmeaning for painting. 
 
 In travelling through the Canton of Benie, I 
 was surprised at first to see no chapels on the road ; 
 but recollecting that it is a Protestant canton, my 
 wonder ceased. Shall I tell you, too, that the 
 people had a more independent air, and were bet- 
 ter dressed, than in the Catholic countries through 
 which we have passed? Every canton has its own 
 costume, but I found none suflRciently simple, ex- 
 cept the purple vest, white sleeves, and straw hat. 
 The good people here are all too fond of show. 
 
 The country, from the Lac de Bienne to Neuf- 
 chatel, is quite a country for a painter ; water, wood, 
 and mountain in fine combination, continually solicit 
 attention. Orbe, partly built by the Romans, stands 
 prettily on a rising ground, andl think is fully as 
 picturesque as any town we have yet seen in Switzer- 
 land. But Lausanne, which we afterwards met with 
 on the Lake of Geneva, eclipses all ; nor can one well 
 conceive a more romantic town. And certainly, 
 if ever there was an effect perfectly suitable to it, 
 it was that which we were so fortunate as to see. 
 The town, with its castle and various ornamented 
 towers and spires, was finely opposed to the dis- 
 tant mountains, which were in delightful obscurity, 
 and so reflected in the lake, that it was impossible 
 to perceive the horizontal line : some white sails 
 
 LAKE OF GENEVA. GENEVA. 
 
 39 
 
 were seen, as it were, suspended in the vapour ; and 
 the tops of the hills, which were above the silver 
 mist, were smiling in the rosy gleam of the part- 
 ing day. The spires upon the towers, however, 
 are certainly too small, and too sharp for the size 
 of the buildings. 
 
 The Lake of Geneva is finest at Lausanne. 
 There are, however, innumerable noble scenes as 
 we advance to Geneva, especially at Secheron, 
 looking towards Mount Blanc, which, though at 
 the distance of sixty miles as the crow flies, ap- 
 pears an enormous mountain, towering over a suc- 
 cession of stupendous hills ! 
 
 You will naturally expect me to say a word or 
 two about Geneva. No doubt, it is an interesting 
 town in appearance, but it wants feature, and sure- 
 ly is not to be compared to Lausanne, either in re- 
 gard to situation or picturesque beauty. Perhaps 
 I may be speaking treason ; but such is my own 
 feeling, and it is that, I know, which you wish me 
 to communicate. The houses of the former are 
 better, more uniform and comfortable ; but there is 
 a certain chaim in the irregularity of the latter, 
 which addresses itself to the mind, and I should 
 think would always command the preference. 
 
 The water from the Lake of Geneva is of a deep 
 blue colour, and as it appears passing the wash- 
 ing boats on the Rhone, near the bridge, one 
 would imagine it was impregnated with dye. In 
 a glass it is quite clear, without the slightest tinge* 
 
40 ARVE AND RHONE. LANDSCAPE-PAINTERS. 
 
 The contrast of the Arve and the Rhone surprised 
 me much, the latter being of the hue of whitish 
 clay ; the line between them was distinctly drawn, 
 as they flowed along, and it is not till some time 
 that the Rhone allows the muddy Arve to mingle 
 with its pellucid water. The waves, too, of each 
 are different, those of the Rhone are large and 
 sweeping, while those of the Arve are more dis- 
 turbed and broken. Both rivers seem a little 
 unnatural in colour, and would not be preferred in 
 painting ; yet, as they are full of character, they 
 must be represented as they are, and the eye will 
 accommodate itself to their appearance. But the 
 judicious artist will choose the season which will 
 permit him to adopt such opposing tints, as will 
 render them not unpleasing in picture, without 
 departing from truth. 
 
 Some landscape painters live in the house which 
 Voltaire fitted upasa theatre. Those gentlemen say, 
 that they paint their pictures chiefly in the field : if 
 so, it is surprising that there should be so little 
 truth in any of their works. Such as are wedded 
 to systems, and can see nature through them only, 
 had better stay at home ; they will never be able to 
 discover and appreciate her varied charms. In 
 speaking of nature, I do not wish to be understood 
 as meaning a few individual scenes ; but as refer- 
 ring to the nature of a country in general, the col- 
 lective perfections, and points of character, which 
 satisfy the eye. Much may be gained, no doubt, 
 
 LANDSCAPE-PAINTERS. 
 
 41 
 
 by studying single views or objects ; but compre- 
 hensive and distinguishing qualities are only ob- 
 tained and felt by extensive investigation. Our 
 celebrated Turner is remarkable for this ; he does 
 nothing at random ; every colour has a meaning, 
 every contrast has a purpose, and all tending to 
 give that full and perfect impression which alone can 
 gratify the mind. * 
 
 ♦ Among some of the finest arrangements of colour in Swiss 
 scenery, which I have selected from liature, I will venture to 
 mention the three following: first, a splendid luminouseffect with 
 the sun upon the various objects ; secondly, a simple effect of 
 light and shadow ; and lastly, a stormy effect. These arrange- 
 ments will always produce a characteristic and pleasing har- 
 mony. 
 
 First Effect, 
 The sky is of a pure and delicate blue, with horizontal streaks 
 of pale grey inclining to purple. If clouds are introduced, they 
 should be light, yet chaste and subdued. Pure snowy Alps 
 with little shadow; to these were opposed clay-coloured rocks 
 sprinkled with snow ; next to these faint reds and sulphur-i 
 coloured venetotion. In the middle division of the scene ap- 
 peared greens of a decided colour, and brownish grey rocks; 
 approaching nearer the eye, dark and solemn pines, reddish 
 and fawn coloured rocks. On the fore.ground crimson brown 
 and pure greens with rich and powerful yellow, mingling with 
 a variety of grey coloured earths. The great light w"as on the 
 snowy mountains, and the deepest colour of the scene appear- 
 ed below the most luminous part not immediately opposed to 
 it, but in such a situation that the eye could take in at one 
 glance the extremes of light and depth of colour, without the 
 one intruding on the other* 
 
42 
 
 LANDSCAPF-PAINTING. 
 
 Second Effect.— Simple Light and Shade, 
 White mountains opposed to a pearly coloured cloudy 
 ftky, with streaks of pure blue, the shadows of the snow 
 cold and of a silvery grey ; different mountains in shade of 
 various tones of grey, reddish or warmer as (hey advanced, 
 with snow thinly scattered on their summits, and in the deep 
 ravines, combining the distant Alps with the subordinate moun- 
 tains which advanced towards the eye. Clay and fawn colour- 
 ed rocks, dark neutral green, a succession of faint green, olive, 
 orange, yellow, reddish fawn, and a kind of satin 'wood hue of 
 
 grey. 
 
 The drapery of the figures white, red, and dark brown. 
 
 Storm. 
 In the sky dark and mysterious hues of grey ; some ap- 
 proaching to blue ; brassy-coloured hues mingled with solemn 
 purple. Pure snow partly seen through clouds, and upon 
 pmnacles above the storm. The snow in the shadow of a 
 bluish cast, sometimes opposed against faint uncertain tones 
 of yellow, or compound obscurity of strange and seemingly 
 inharmonious colours of portentous aspect ; whitish, cop- 
 per-coloured dusky falling showers, grey rocks, but solemn 
 in tone, and illuminated at top, and springing from misty 
 vales: next, brown rocks and heathy mountains. Black 
 pines, with red and grey stems, crumbling earths of various 
 colours, drab, yellow, and pearly greys. The vegetation quite 
 upon the eye, broiim, subdued orange, and warm greens. 
 
 v^ 
 
 LETTER Vr. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 Vales of Cleuse and Servos. --Vale of Chamouni.^ Alpine 
 
 Sceucry.-^Valosscn and Teteuoire.— Trient Plain of 
 
 the Valnis — Simplon — Domo d'Ossola Laso Ma^siore. 
 
 o too 
 
 —-Milan — Leonardo da Vinci.— Ambrosian Library. — 
 Appearance of Milan. 
 
 From Geneva to Chamouni we passed through 
 the vales of Cleuse and Servos ; and surely if there 
 is any mountain scenery deserving the admiration 
 of the painter or the poet, it will be found in those 
 tremendous valleys ; encompassed by hills, seven, 
 eight, and nine thousand feet in height ; whose 
 summits, arresting the fleecy clouds, as they would 
 sweep along the skies, throw them into a thousand 
 fantastic shapes. Beyond the Lac de Shad, how 
 awefuUy do the gigantic mountains rear their majes- 
 tic heads ! Mount Blanc, and its grand aiguille the 
 Dome de Goutie, covered with eternal snows ! 
 
 In the vale of Chamouni, people of all nations 
 meet to see its bordering wonders : the Aiguille 
 de Medi,and de Dreux pinnacles, on Mount Blanc, 
 and the glaciers, with their green spears of ice 
 pointing up to heaven. The summit, too, of Mount 
 Blanc itself, towering far above the region of clouds 
 and tempests, and smiling in perpetual serenity, 
 seems to court affinity with another world, and for- 
 
4i ALPINE SCENERY. VALOSSEN & TETENOIRE. 
 
 cibly reminds us of the beautiful simile suggested to 
 Goldsmith by the sublime scenery of the Alps : 
 
 As some tall cliff that lifts its awful form, 
 
 Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm ; 
 
 Thoui^h round its breast the rolling clouds are spread, 
 
 Eternal sunshine settles on its head. 
 
 Deserted Village. 
 
 Placed amidst these tremendous solitudes, while 
 the dreary silence that reigns around is broken 
 only by the occasional thunder of the avalanches, 
 the proudest of mankind must be overpowered with 
 a sense of human weakness, and in silent adoration 
 do homage to Almighty power. 
 
 Such were our feelings ; but they were render- 
 cd inconceivably more intense when we cast our 
 eyes on those miserable beings >n human form, the 
 Cretans and those deformed by goitres, who dwell 
 among these scenes of grandeur. It seemed as if 
 the Creator intended to impress on our minds, that, 
 sublime as these manifestations of his power might 
 appear to us, they were in his own sight as nothing 
 compared with the nobler works of creation, since 
 he allowed them to be inhabited by beings incapable 
 of even perceiving their magnificence. 
 
 On leaving Chamouni we travelled through the 
 valley of Valossen and the Tetenoire, crossed the 
 Fourcloy, and left the Col de Balme upon our 
 rio-ht. Nature seems to have indulged herself in 
 
 TRIENT.— PLAIN OF THE VALAIS. 
 
 45 
 
 II 
 
 every fancy in those extraordinary regions. The 
 black banners of the lofty pine, 150 and 180 
 feet in height, waved upon the mountains, as if 
 death and destruction iiad here fixed their abode ! 
 and soon we found acres of fallen trunks, mixed 
 with ice and snow, some with their roots upper- 
 most, howling in the storm, and seeming to com- 
 plain of avalanches and ruin ! Here, while we stood 
 upon the torn sides of a precipice, and heard the 
 waters roaring, though unseen below, we felt an 
 emotion of awe, of which all the ravines and cata- 
 racts in your own country can impart no idea. 
 
 We slept at Trient, a small village about 4000 
 leet high among the mountains ; a wild and sin- 
 gular scene ! Every cottage is supported on posts, 
 to prevent the rats and the other vermin from en- 
 tering them. In the morning we departed for Mar- 
 tigny, crossing various mountains, which, though 
 sublime, were not to be compared to those which we 
 left the preceding evening. The pine was exchang. 
 ed for ancient larches of iwdigious size. Most of 
 them, near the path, were burnt half way up 
 by the almost frozen shepherds of these inclement 
 regions. As we descended towards Martigny, the 
 rich and fertile plain of the Valais appeared be- 
 low bounded by lofty mountains,— and never did 
 I behold a sight more beautiful. The clouds were 
 playing among the hills, and the sun seemed to 
 enjoy their sport ; he gilded their fair sides with 
 gold, and the mists threw their grey mantle over 
 
 
46 
 
 SIxMrLON. DOMO d'OSSOLA. 
 
 LAGO MAGGIORE.— MILAN. 
 
 47 
 
 wood and vale, while the pinnacles and the aspir- 
 ing rocks alone caught the yellow radiance of 
 heaven. The noble chesnut trees, just above Mar- 
 ti'^'ny, were such as would have been admired and 
 pourtrayed by Salvator Rosa, or Nicolas Poussin. 
 The scenery, as we approached Sion, and around 
 Sion itself, surpasses all thatpainter's fancy ever con- 
 ceived. Nature, when she pleases, far surpasses art ! 
 I would be particular in my descriptions, were I 
 not afraid of being tiresome. Switzerland, too, its 
 government, manners, peasantry, and almost every 
 patch of ground, are so well known, that I feel my- 
 self at liberty to omit details. Let me then short« 
 lytell you, that from Sion we journeyed onto Brigg, 
 and from thence began to ascend the Simplon, 
 (6000 feet in height,) the most romantic way of 
 entering into Italy. Much could be said of ice, 
 and snow, and pine, and " the noble frenzy in 
 which nature wantons." All is grand, but not 
 so well adapted for the canvas as the other mighty 
 scenes which we have passed. The Italian side 
 perhaps is best. Nothing can be more extrava- 
 gantly wild than the close ravines, and naked 
 rocks without a tree ; the road winding among 
 innumerable projections and threatening precipices, 
 and sometimes passing through galleries in the so- 
 lid rock, while a wicked noisy stream accompanied 
 
 us all the way. 
 
 Domo d'Ossola was the first Italian town which 
 we entered ; and a beautiful little town it is, seated 
 in aplain,and surrounded by hills and wooded banks, 
 
 \ 
 
 m 
 
 7i 
 * 
 
 1 
 f: 
 
 which are studded with buildings, different in cha- 
 racter from those of Switzerland. The roofs of the 
 houses are not so high, nor are they broken by so 
 many chimneys. Every traveller in Piedmont is 
 in love with Domo d'Ossola. As we proceeded 
 thence to Milan, the Lago di Maggiore gleamed 
 before us a considerable part of our way, and a more 
 delightfully embellished lake you can hardly con- 
 ceive. Its islands are covered with buildings, and the 
 mountains which bound the views are of the finest 
 forms, not overpowering the expansive mirror which 
 reflects the Italian skies. This celebrated lake may 
 be said to have two characters ; when we look to- 
 wards Milan it is beautiful, but when we cast our eye 
 back towards the Alps it appears extremely grand, 
 as, indeed, you may well suppose, when I tell you, 
 that it reflects Mount Rosa, and the great St Ber- 
 nard. On the road to Milan, we did not meet with 
 much to interest us in the way of picture ; the 
 country is flat, and richly covered with vines and 
 Indian corn. 
 
 Milan, the second city in Italy, may be said to 
 be invisible, till we are close upon its gates. When 
 we entered at mid-day, we found the streets desert- 
 ed, except by a few brown Italians, without shoes 
 or stockings. In the cool of the evening, however, 
 there was a great display of well dressed people, 
 and innumerable carriages. The streets, paved with 
 flag stones, are narrow and uncomfortable, and not 
 to be compared to those of London. 
 
 ^1 
 
48 LEONARDO DA VINCI.— AMBUOSIAN LIBRAUY. 
 
 As we could afford to spend only a short time in 
 this interesting place, we hastened to see the paint- 
 ing of the Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci, on 
 the wall of what was formerly the Dominican Con- 
 vent, and lately a barrack for soldiers ! This picture 
 was said to be the greatest work of that celebrated 
 master. Leonardo, fond of experiment, had made 
 use of some improper mixture in his process, which, 
 added to the various vicissitudes of its fate, hasten- 
 ed its destruction. It is truly distressing to see its 
 sad condition •,— the whole of the left end being 
 covered with grey stains, which involve the figures 
 in general obscurity. The head of Christ, St John, 
 and the two heads near our Saviour on the right, 
 are the only ones entire. Judas is greatly da- 
 maged, and the drapery of the third figure is quite 
 destroyed. The whole is covered with dust, any 
 attempt to remove which could hardly be advised, 
 the blisters on the picture are so numerous, and so 
 easily displaced by the slightest touch. Notwith- 
 standing its being partly repainted by Pietro Mazzi, 
 and the other disadvantages under which this work 
 appears, it has a good general and soft effect, not 
 unlike the print by Morghen. The colouring is 
 chaste and silvery, and the finishing uncommonly 
 careful and delicate. 
 
 In the Ambrosian library there is a huge volume 
 of scraps in mechanics, mathematics, and painting, 
 by Leonardo da Vinci. It is shown with great pride, 
 and perhaps contains some valuable information ; 
 the drawings were indifferent, and I must confess 
 
 f 
 
 J 
 
 I 
 
 AMBROSIAN LIBRARY. APPEARANCE OF JMILAN. 49 
 
 I was surprised to see a number of caricatures of 
 monsters, unworthy of the pencil of such a painter. 
 Besides this book, there is the famous Virgil writ- 
 ten by Petrarch. It is beautiful no doubt, and must 
 have required an amazing time to finish it : but 
 was Petrarch well employed in this mechanical 
 and school-boy drudgery? The Academy con- 
 tains some Cartoons, and sketches by various mas- 
 ters. The Cartoon of the war of Constantino a- 
 gainst Maxentius, said to be by Raphael, is spirited 
 and free ; the horses, in particular, are admirable, 
 and full of fire. Some slight sketches by Michael 
 Angelo, and drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, like- 
 wise grace the walls, and incapacitate us for doing 
 justice to inferior pictures of Bassan and Brueghel. 
 There is likewise a considerable collection of casts 
 from the antique, and from the Adam and Eve of 
 Michael Angelo. Adam is by much too old, and 
 Eve too masculine. 
 
 The plain on which Milan stands is level as the 
 sea : we were obliged, therefore, to mount a steeple 
 in order to obtain a view of the buildings, several 
 of which are very beautiful. The cupola or dome 
 prevails, but is in general diminutive. As the 
 houses are built chiefly of brick, their appearance 
 IS not pleasing to the eye ; and, indeed, it is some 
 time before we look for elegance or regularity of 
 form in structures of such material. The Cathe- 
 dral, which is of white marble, does not seem to 
 be in good company : its pinnacles and spire seek 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 CATHEDRAL OF MILAN. 
 
 the sky for harmony. Considering the enor- 
 mous sum which this building must have cost, it 
 has a certain air of flimsiness, blended with its cha- 
 racter of elegance and lightness, and exciting re- 
 gret for so useless a waste of money. This we feel 
 the more, when we cast our eyes upon the wretch- 
 ed looking peasantry. 
 
 'v 
 
 LETTER Vir. 
 
 PARMA. 
 
 Lodi—Piacenza — Francisco Mochi. -^Cathedral Church 
 
 of St Augustine — Church of Si John.—Parma.—Correggio, 
 
 —Parmigianc—PaintingsbyCorreggio Caraccis.^Schi- 
 
 (ione.-^Gucrcinc^Procaccini.^Prize Pictures Library. 
 
 -^Museum of Antiquities at Valeia. 
 
 1 HE bridge of Lodi is a long wooden structure, 
 supported on stakes driven into the bed of the 
 Adda. In length it may be about ^50 yards ; in 
 breadth not more than ^20 feet ; and I should think 
 nearly 14 feet in height. The river flows close 
 under the walls of the town of Lodi, which is 
 situated on a slight eminence, and is of consider- 
 able extent. In the month of May, when the 
 snow begins to melt in the Apennines, the Adda 
 is very rapid ; communicating with the Po, it eu- 
 ables Lodi to carry on a considerable commerce 
 with Venice, and various towns to which that great 
 river opens an access. The principal export is 
 the well known Parmasan cheese. The cattle are 
 black, small, and short horned, about the size of 
 the Lowland breed in Scotland. Water is in great 
 abundance, and the country, in its general aspect, 
 is not unlike the counties of Huntingdon and 
 Cambridge. The husbandry is neat and clean ; 
 the fields are divided with rows of willow and pop- 
 
52 
 
 PIACENZA. FRANCISCO MOCHI. 
 
 CATHEDRAL. CHURCH OF ST AUGUSTINE. 53 
 
 lar; and water is often conveyed through the 
 grounds for the purpose of irrigation. The Aus- 
 trian government, we learned, is by no means po- 
 pular in Lodi. The taxes are high, and the re- 
 venue is expended in Vienna. Every where Napo- 
 Icon's coins are current ; and, what is curious, they 
 are struck at Milan, which belongs to Austria, as if 
 the Austrian government still retained a feeling 
 of partiality and of expectation towards the exiled 
 
 Napoleon. 
 
 On entering Tiacenza, we met with several car- 
 rlages, as yet a rare sight in Italy. We were 
 pleased with the general appearance of business 
 and active employment amongst the inhabitants, and 
 equally pleased, that we were less tormented by the 
 clamorous importunities of idle mendicants. From 
 the scarcity of stone, of which there is no supply 
 nearer than the quarries at the Lago Maggiore, the 
 houses and public buildings are mostly constructed 
 of brick ; and (so excellent a teacher is necessity) 
 the ornaments and enrichments are in many ni- 
 stanccs made of the same material, and have a good 
 effect. The town house, with its Saxon arches and 
 reticulated brick work, is in its effect broad and 
 grand. I can say little, however, in commenda- 
 tion of the colossal equestrian figures of Alex- 
 ander and Ranutius Faniese which appear in 
 front, further than that they are done in a clever 
 manner. Francisco Mochi was not an artist of 
 transcendent merit ; yet the basso relievos on the 
 
 \\ 
 
 I 
 
 ^i 
 
 pedestal are good, though the style of execut- 
 ing them is faulty, and gives them the appearance 
 of plates of bronze placed above each other, rather 
 than of fair and manly workmanship, and is cer- 
 tainly much inferior to flat relief. 
 
 In the Cathedral there are many paintings of 
 great celebrity : those especially by Ludovico, and 
 Annibal Caracci, are characterized by a happy 
 union of simplicity and dignity. The dome, too, 
 painted by Guercino and Marozzone, represent- 
 ing the apostles, is a rich feast of colouring ; and 
 Procaccini's works on the roof of the quire abound 
 in admirable design. His picture likewise of the 
 Assumption, which was taken by the French and 
 almost destroyed, is the ruin of a superior work 
 of art ; the angel is excellent, and the buildings 
 in good taste. Francescini's frescoes are light and 
 free ; and perhaps that style is better adapted to 
 a gloomy situation, where there is a deficiency of 
 light, than works of a deeper tone of colour. Some 
 other pictures of considerable merit are hung up- 
 on the walls: that of Landi's of the Deathof the Vir- 
 gin will claim a passing glance, though the virgin 
 is much too large, and the angels exhibit an un- 
 necessary display of legs and arms. The Marquis 
 Cerati's painting is likewise good in colour and 
 design. 
 
 The Fa9ade of the church of St Augustine, by 
 Bagarotti, is beautiful in its proportions ; but we 
 were much inclined to think, that, to clear away the 
 
54 
 
 CHURCH OF ST JOHN'. 
 
 1 
 
 angels, bishops, and festoons of flowers, would be 
 a great improvement, as the Ionic order does not 
 admit such obtrusive ornament. Napoleon suppres- 
 sed the monastery belonging to this church, and 
 now it is a manufactory of the liquor called Roso- 
 lio : the church itself, when we saw it, was used as 
 a place for painting scenes for the theatre ! On the 
 wall of the refectory there is a fresco painted by 
 Lamazzo of the Vision of St John, bearing date 
 1567. A traveller, who had a moment to command, 
 might see it, and perhaps he would not be alto- 
 gether disappointed. 
 
 We were tempted to visit the church of St 
 John, from an account which we had heard of 
 two pictures painted by Camuccini and Landi, 
 rival artists of great name now in Italy. The 
 former is a native of Florence, the latter of 
 Piacenza : Camuccini's picture is the Presentation 
 in the Temple, and Landi's, Christ Bearing the 
 Cross: both are extremely good. Taste, drawing, and 
 composition, characterize the work of Camuccini ; 
 but, for want of glazing, his colouring is poor and 
 vapid; his draperies, too, are occasionally somewhat 
 heavy, and his figures hard and liney ; the whole, 
 however, shews an elegant mind and a ready pencil. 
 Landi excels in colouring and effect, with perhaps 
 a greater degree of nature and expression than his 
 rival. Landi would be preferred in England, and 
 Camuccini on the Continent. 
 
 The country between Piacenza and Parma is a 
 
 i 
 
 PARMA. CORREGGIO. PARMIGTANO. 
 
 55 
 
 uniform level : the landscape presents no promi- 
 nent features, and no object is to be seen till you 
 approach very near it. This, indeed, is the cha- 
 racter of the whole plain of Lombardy. The fields 
 are clothed in the richest pasture, but not a horse, 
 a cow, or a sheep, is to be seen. I do not remem- 
 ber to have observed a hay-stack except one. 
 Oxen are used in the plough, and are occasionally 
 decorated with fringed cloth and tassels. At 
 San' Donino, the Jesuits' college is turned into a 
 workhouse ; — one of Napoleon's wicked deeds. 
 
 Parma is a most delightful town, possessing a 
 thousand charms for the man of taste, literature, or 
 science. The paintings, libraries, and anatomical 
 preparations, have great attractions. 
 
 In the cupola of the church of Saint John there 
 is an admirable painting in fresco by Correggio, 
 representing Christ among his Apostles in Heaven : 
 the figures are remarkable for grandeur of design, 
 breadth, and simple colouring. The Chace of Diana, 
 too, in the chamber of Saint Paul, in the Benedic- 
 tine Convent, said to be by the same masterly hand, 
 but of deeper tone of colour, highly finished, and 
 altogether expressive of a noble mind, entertaining 
 splendid views of art. Adjoining to the chamber 
 of Saint Paul is an apartment painted by Parmigi- 
 ano ; but the multiplicity of ornament and little 
 figures distracts the eye. The design of Parmigi- 
 ano, however, though deficient in the simplicity 
 which characterizes the paintings in the chamber of 
 
56 
 
 PAINTINGS BY CORREGGIO. 
 
 St Paul, abounds in exquisite details ; and the small 
 pictures which are surrounded with ornament are 
 full of taste. Many plagiarisms have been made 
 from them by modern masters; and, if I am not mis- 
 taken, Titian himself has borrowed from the Murder 
 of the Innocents for his celebrated picture of Bac- 
 chus and Ariadne. 
 
 The painting in fresco, by Correggio, which 
 adorned the dome or cupola of the cathedral, is 
 hastening to decay ; yet it exhibits many figures 
 quite entire, surprising us, by tasteful contrivance, 
 by the natural appearance of the foreshortening, 
 and the intimate knowledge of the human figure in 
 every attitude. Both in this picture, which repre- 
 sents the Assumption, and his picture of the Apos- 
 tles in Heaven, there is little variety of colour. Red 
 and brown seem to take the lead, and blue and cool 
 colours are used but sparingly. The limbs of the 
 figures are strong and muscular, which gives a ro- 
 bust and powerful expression to his figures, perhaps 
 a little out of character. In the gallery of the 
 academy, the fresco picture of the Virgin and Child, 
 known by the name of the Madona della Scalla, is 
 a most exquisite specimen of ideal beauty and af- 
 fection. Perhaps Correggio, more than any other 
 painter, possessed the power of embodying the sen- 
 timents of the mind, and of sustaining that idea of 
 character which he intended to express. Yet, 
 without speaking treason, I may venture to say, that, 
 in the fresco picture, in the library, of Christ crown- 
 
 f- 
 
 fi 
 
 ii 
 
 VIRGIN MARY, MAGDALENE, AND ST JEROME. 57 
 
 ing the Virgin, the Virgin wants that retiring 
 modesty, which is expressive of her character; and 
 that our Saviour appears too old, his arms meao-re, 
 and very poorly drawn : the picture, however, has 
 been greatly injured, and peinte mentos (or correc- 
 tions) are seen in the defective parts. 
 
 To the expeditious manner in which the fresco 
 pictures have been executed. I am persuaded we 
 owe much of the broad and noble style in painting. 
 The process admits of no delay, excludes all tri- 
 fling details, and, as it were, forces the painter to 
 keep to general expression alone. The peculiar 
 process and manner of its drying also gave an 
 opportunity of introducing firm and decided pencil- 
 ling. Oil painting, however, having the advantage 
 of refined delicacy of finishing and colour, and 
 that fascinating transparency of shadow which o-ives 
 such an appearance of reality, while it is not pre- 
 judicial to dignity of style, has been preferred by 
 the great masters for their choicest works. But 
 Correggio has concentrated the perfections of oil 
 and fresco, in a higher degree than any other mas- 
 ter ; and may be said to stand alone in all the 
 power of colour, light, and shade, united with 
 grace and beauty. He who beholds the picture 
 of the Virgin Mary with the Infant Jesus, Mary 
 Magdalene and Saint Jerome, (now in Parma in 
 Correggio's room,) must confess it has no equal. 
 ^\'here is there such delicacy as in Mary Magdalene? 
 where such a prostrate soul in adoration ? The Ma- 
 
58 
 
 MADONNA DELLA SC UDELL A. 
 
 CARACCI. SCHIDONE. 
 
 ^9 
 
 dona della Scudella, or the Repose in Egypt, (in the 
 same room,) is also by Correggio ; and, next to the 
 last mentioned picture, is perhaps the finest work 
 of this master in Parma. The harmony of lines, 
 producing the most agreeable effect, exhibits a 
 profound knowledge of art, and the eye is 
 not distracted by any unpleasing interruption. 
 The glory of the angels flows with the forms 
 of the clouds, the clouds with the palm leaves, 
 and those are taken up by the figures. Nor 
 was it uninstructing to observe the general form 
 of the light in those celebrated pictures. In the 
 latter, beginning at the top of the picture, and 
 finishing at the feet of the Virgin, it had some- 
 thing of the shape of an S reversed, with about a 
 third part taken off the bottom of the letter. The 
 construction of the light, in the picture of the Vir- 
 gin and Mary Magdalene, is, on the other hand, 
 like the figure of a small h: these lights were sur- 
 rounded by various cool and harmonizing hues of 
 dusky red and blue, joined to the principal colours 
 of the pictures, which were chiefly purple, white, 
 yellow, flesh, crimson tones, and blue. In pen- 
 cilling, the pictures exhibit no markings or touches 
 of the brush, except in the draperies, which are 
 freely painted and richly glazed, and at the same 
 time carefully and exquisitely finished. In these 
 remarks I allude principally to the two celebrated 
 pictures which I have just described. The paintings 
 by Correggio in the same apartment, are in his se- 
 
 1 
 
 cond manner, and not so pleasing in their composi- 
 tion, colouring, or expression. 
 
 The gallery contains many paintings of great 
 merit, but none of the highest class. Ludovico 
 Caracci's pictures of the Assumption and Death 
 OF THE Virgin are by no means pleasing. They 
 are certainly too heavy, and the Virgin is by much 
 too short. These pictures are badly hung : paint- 
 ings, in which the figures are of a colossal scale, 
 should never be placed with others, in which they 
 arc less than the size of nature ; the one is always 
 injurious to the other. Tlie Virgin and Child, 
 with Saint Catherine and Saint John, by Ludovico 
 Caracci, is an exquisite picture, and almost without 
 a fault. Annibal Caracci's Deposition of Christ 
 is likewise greatly admired ; but it has a defect, and 
 a very great one ; — the figures are looking out of 
 the picture, and not attending to the subject. This, 
 indeed, is often the case with pictures in every 
 other respect of transcendent merit, and may per- 
 haps arise from the studies for the painting being 
 taken from living models, whose eyes, turned to- 
 wards the painter, instead of assuming the proper 
 direction, are inadvertently represented by him, 
 according to their actual appearance. 
 
 Schidone is a favourite master here. To my eye, 
 his execution intrudes upon his subject, his sha- 
 dows are much too black, and his lights too strong, 
 without middle tint to blend them with each other. 
 His picture of the Last Supper has both taste and 
 
 : 
 
 ' ; 
 
 1 
 
I 
 
 60 GUERCINO.—PROCACCINI.— PRIZE PICTURES. 
 
 repose. Before our Saviour is phiced a lamb roast- 
 ed whole ; and a figure is seen sleeping by his side. 
 But these extravagancies excepted, the figures are 
 full of character, well painted, and free of spots. 
 Guercinohas a little of Schidone's error;— his sha- 
 dows are opaque and too strong. Michael Ange- 
 lo Caravaggio's bold opix)sition has misled many 
 masters of superior mind ; even Guido has imitat- 
 ed him. Procaccini produces more effect with 
 fewer materials than almost any other master ; his 
 gradations of brown with little colour are very 
 pleasing. Simple unity of colour, indeed, will al- 
 ways charm, even should it not be perfect ; on the 
 contraiy, when the eye is assailed by injudicious 
 force and spotty nothings, the mind revolts, and 
 perhaps may be unjust to other parts deserving 
 
 praise. 
 
 In the room containing the prize pictures by 
 modern artists, we saw little to admire, except the 
 mere drawing of the figures, in a sort of cold semi- 
 accurate style. In colouring, they are gaudy, 
 without splendour or richness, and the whole col- 
 lection seems as if painted by the same hand. In 
 short, they have no originality. The ancient 
 statues seem to be their guide, but they never 
 seize the spirit of them, nor look into the source 
 from which all their perfection is derived. Nature is 
 held as nothing, or unworthy of being consulted ; 
 and, consequently, a mawkish insipidity prevails in 
 all, and we leave the collection with the impres- 
 
 LIBRARY. ANTIQUITIES AT VALEIA. 
 
 61 
 
 sion that the artists can never improve. In por- 
 trait painting they are even worse ; I refer all 
 men of taste to the picture of Maria Louisa, paint- 
 ed by the professor of the academy, to make their 
 comparison between that and British art. 
 
 The casts from the antique statues are nume- 
 rous and good ; but, on seeing the use which is 
 made of them, I secretly wished they had rather 
 had some natural objects, and costumes of various 
 ages, with other necessary materials for picture. * 
 
 We have merely walked through the principal 
 library. The catalogues are contained in 384 
 boxes, 100 cards in each box. The few indivi- 
 duals that were sitting at the solitary tables, im- 
 pressed me with the idea that Parma would not 
 be much the wiser with its 80,000 volumes. The 
 anatomical preparations in wax are accounted ex- 
 tremely fine ; but from a conversation I have had 
 with one of the first anatomists of the present time, 
 I conclude that they are of little use. In the 
 museum forming of the antiquities lately discover- 
 
 * A young artist, on commencing his profession, has not 
 often the means of procuring the various and essential material 
 for his subject. A museum containing every possible variety 
 always at commandy would certainly be desirable. He may 
 see much in various collections, but, to derive due benefit from 
 them, he ought to have the power of placing them as he mi^ht 
 choose, either with regard to light and shade, or grouping. 
 Our excellent artist, Mr William Allan of Edinburgh, I have 
 no doubt, has found his museum of the greatest service. 
 
 I. 
 
 : I 
 
 Ml 
 
62 
 
 ANTIQUITIES AT VALEIA. 
 
 ed at Valeia in the Apennines, near Vicenza, 
 are some very curious remains of ancient art in 
 bronze and marble ; domestic utensils and orna- 
 ments of various kinds ; ancient xv'mdow glassy 
 *cery thicky cut crystal, and specimens of porce- 
 lain. 
 
 To-morrow we depart for Bologna, from whence 
 I shall send you some account of the galleries 
 there, as well as that of Modcna, which we shall 
 take in our way. 
 
 
Vol.I.P«K* »>3- 
 
 3lK31?^TfiIS^ IFlRQSfl II1i'ib.a.2AIT X!®1P'ff^1MB3 
 
 ^emr Fioi-euce 
 
 ^eiu'lecce 
 
 /.tr*irf .V**^' 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 MODENA AND BOLOGNA. 
 
 Modena. — The Palace and Pictures. — Academy, and an- 
 cient and modern Paintings. — Bologna Pictures returned 
 
 Jrom Paris — Paintings from the Suppressed Monasteries, 
 
 — Mariscalchi Palace and Pictures Church of San 
 
 Petronico. — Fountain in the Piazza del Giganti Vien) 
 
 Jrom the Tower of Asinelli. 
 
 On our journey from Parma to Modena, we fre- 
 quently saw ploughs drawn by six or eight oxen 
 on light soil. The mendicants increased in num- 
 ber as we advanced ; and what may appear sur- 
 prising, these people, though given to the despica- 
 ble practice of begging, live in handsome houses : 
 indeed, we have met with none of the poorest 
 class of cottages since we entered Italy. The 
 country is quite enchanting, and no one could 
 suppose there was here any want of wealth or com- 
 fort : — one glance, however, at the peasantry, and 
 the spell is broken. 
 
 Modena is a beautiful town; the streets are regu- 
 lar, with some display of architecture, and the 
 houses on arcades, though not in taste, are light 
 and airy. Agreeably to etiquette, we saw the 
 palace first. It is a splendid structure, far surpass- 
 ing the palaces of England's King; but, thank 
 
V..l.l.Pa^ l*."*. 
 
 sarii 
 
 :f' •jiiL.i^iT t;ii)-f=lriv.«'J^ 
 
 N»'«»r I'loiTtuT 
 
 ilittiiftiiil 
 
 e^f»^^ 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 MODEXA AND BOLOGNA. 
 
 Modemi. — The Palace and Pictures,— Academy ^ and an- 
 cient and modern Paintings. — Bologna Pictures returned 
 
 Jrom Par la. — Vainlings from the Suppressed Monasteries. 
 — Mariscalchi Palace and Pictures. — Church of San 
 
 Pctronico — Fountain in the Piazza del Gisranti Vieiv 
 
 from the Toner of Asinelli. 
 
 On our journey from rarina to Modeua, wc ire- 
 qucntly saw ploughs drawn by six or eight oxen 
 on h'ght soil. Tlie mendicants increased in num- 
 hei- as we advanced ; and wliat may appear sur- 
 prising, tliese people, tliough given to the despica- 
 l)le practice of begging, live in handsome houses : 
 indeed, we liave met with none of the poorest 
 class of cottages since we entered Italy. The 
 (ountry is (piite enchanting, and no one could 
 suj)pose there was liere any want of wealth or com- 
 fort : — one glance, however, at the peasantry, and 
 the spell is broken. 
 
 Modena is a beautiful town; the streets are reiru- 
 lar, with some display of architecture, and the 
 houses on arcades, though not in taste, are liglit 
 and airy. Agreeably to etiquette, we saw the 
 palace first. It is a splendid structure, far surpass- 
 ing the palaces of England's King ; but, thank 
 
 N»'Hi' I>«"«*«'e 
 
 /./♦.#r- .*'*^.' 
 
 g^Hik^^^d 
 
64f 
 
 PALACE AND PICTURES. 
 
 heaven ! in our country we have not the distress- 
 ing contrast of a starving population around. 
 
 In the Grand Saloon, Venchensi and Mengelli, 
 two Bolognese artists of great promise, were em- 
 ployed in imitating some of the basso relievos. In 
 this department, the Italian artists certainly excel, 
 even to deception. Twenty of the choicest pic- 
 tures, carried off' by Buonaparte from this palace, 
 are retained in Paris, yet there still remains here 
 a good display of art. Nogaro's copy of the 
 Notte, or night-piece, representing the Nativity 
 of Christ, proves the grandeur of the original by 
 Correggio, which adorned the palace of Parma. 
 The infant Jesus is clothed in light, expressive of 
 divinity, and the radiant effect illuminates the 
 surrounding figures : how sublime the thought, — 
 that we might not look upon the Son of God 
 as on a child of man, — or approach him without 
 brightening in the radiance of divinity. 
 
 Titian's heads are full of truth and dignity. 
 Guido's Christ upon the Cross is chaste and deli- 
 cate, and the expression of the countenance most 
 affecting. The martyrdom of St Peter by Guercino 
 is likewise well conceived, and certainly less revolting 
 to our feelings, than the horrid work of nailing to 
 the cross. The saint, about to be crucified, looks to 
 heaven; an angel gives him confidence, and he sub- 
 mits with resignation. The works of Dossi Dos- 
 sot are something in the style of Titian, displaying 
 genius and an elevated mind. Of Carlo Dolci's 
 
 PALACE AND PICTURES, 
 
 65 
 
 works there are but few in Modena : a pretty 
 simple head is all that we have seen, but it is a 
 lovely gem of finishing and taste, even with its 
 gilded glory. The pictures of Garofolo abound 
 in beauty, though the drawing is rather hard and 
 dry. I hope to see more splendid pictures by Tin- 
 toretto and Salvator Rosa : those of the latter in 
 this collection are full of mannerism and bad ma- 
 terial. Perhaps the finest picture in the palace 
 is the Angel at the Tomb by Agostino Caracci : 
 its simplicity and sentiment address the mind 
 through expressive colouring. 
 
 In the room of drawings there is much to study. 
 Nothing can be more instructing than designs by 
 the ancient masters. In them we may perceive 
 the various changes of thought, and, tracing the 
 reason why one line is chosen in preference to 
 another, may discover a rule that may guide us to 
 improvement. 
 
 When we arrived at Bologna, the columns of 
 the Arcades were clothed in silk, and rich webs 
 were hung from every window, in honour of the 
 Madonna of Succor. Well-dressed people were 
 collected in innumerable groupes, and joy and 
 gaiety seemed the order of the day. 
 
 The Academy is open, and many of the works 
 of the modern artists and amateurs are on exhibi- 
 tion. The display is poor, and the pictures are 
 so much like those of Parma, that it might be sup- 
 
 vol. I. 
 
 E 
 
m 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE ACADEMY. 
 
 posed they were painted by the same hands. The 
 only thing that looks like nature is a copy, in chalk, 
 of Wilkie*s Jews' Harper. There are likewise 
 some pretty good imitations of Wollett's prints in 
 Indian ink. The landscapes are generally bad, 
 vapid in colouring, and seemingly made up of 
 scraps from Claude and Caspar Poussin, exhibit- 
 ing no originality, not one glance at nature. 
 
 The gallery of the academy contains a regular 
 series of ancient pictures from Giotto up to Do- 
 menichino : they are not the best specimens of the 
 various masters, yet the series is extremely cu- 
 rious, and distinctly shows the slow but regular 
 progress towards perfection. From these pictures, 
 it is very evident, that individual nature had not 
 been adopted for their study, as in the Dutch and 
 Flemish schools. Even from its commencement, 
 and in their earliest attempts, the Bolognese school, 
 and, indeed, all the Italian painters, have had a no- 
 tion of general nature, and abstract ideas of dig- 
 nity and beauty. The ray was feeble, but it has 
 guided these celebrated masters to all their great- 
 ness. Would it not be instructing to trace the pro- 
 gress of that school, which is founded on simple 
 nature only, and to contrast it with the higher 
 mode of study? Such an investigation might con- 
 duct to discovery and to important results. 
 
 Bologna's pictures, now restored from Paris, 
 are certainly the finest we have seen in Italy, — al- 
 ways, however, excepting Correggio's incompar- 
 
 PATNTINGS IN THE ACADEMY. 
 
 67 
 
 able works at Parma. They are twelve in number, 
 painted by the following masters : Perugino, 
 Raphael, Domenichino, Agostino Caracci, Annibal 
 Caracci, Guido, Cavedone, and Guercino. 
 
 Perugino'spaintingof the Angrl and St Cathe- 
 rine is well composed, and free from that hardness 
 which is characteristic of his style. The colouring 
 too is clear, and pleasing, and, generally speaking, 
 it has no peculiarity or stiffness. In this picture, 
 it is not difficult to recognize the master of the im- 
 mortal Raphael. 
 
 His painting of St Cecilia, Raphael has happily 
 succeeded in animating with the heavenly expres- 
 sion which he had conceived, and may be said to 
 have embodied the lightening of the mind ! The 
 unalloyed purity, undisturbed by useless and mere- 
 tricious details, captivates the soul ; and no one can 
 leave this noble picture of Raphael, without 
 an elevating sense of the genius and dignity of 
 man. 
 
 Domenichino'sMARTYRDOAiOFSTAcNEsissplen- 
 did in colour and effect. The Mysteries of the 
 Rosary, by the same master, is quite superb, but 
 the drawing is not so chaste as that of Raphael's ; 
 neither is the composition perfect. Both pictures 
 seem divided in the middle, exciting the idea, that, 
 if cut in two, they might fonn separate and entire 
 pictures. It is to be wished, too, they had been 
 less spotty in the lights. 
 
 Agostino Caracci's picture of the Ascension of 
 
 • 1 1 
 
 \\\ 
 
 iW 
 
CHURCH OF SAN PETRONIO. 
 
 69 
 
 68 
 
 ACADEMY. MARISCALCHI PALACE. 
 
 St Peter is painted in a low tone, with a myste- 
 rious and sublime effect ; but, unfortunately, it was 
 hung near Domenichino's, and looked a little 
 heavy. 
 
 The Angel and Virgin, by Annibal Caracci, is 
 chaste in design and delicate in colour, with a su- 
 pernatural appearance, which leads the mind to 
 another world. 
 
 Guido's Massacre of the Innocents is remark- 
 able for expression. Such looks of innocence would 
 have stayed a murderer's arm. 
 
 The painting of St Alo and St Patronica, 
 by Cavedone, is broad in style, and full of nature. 
 
 The pictures collected from the suppresed mo- 
 nasteries are exhibited in an extensive gallery. 
 Most of them are by early masters, and not very 
 captivating to the eye; the best is a Crucifixion b> 
 Guido, which may rank, indeed, with any of his 
 finest paintings. Domenichino has not scrupled 
 to take the figure of Peter the martyr, in Titian's 
 celebrated picture at Venice, and introduce it in the 
 Murder OF a Dominican Monk. It is generous in 
 one great man to take from another ; there cannot 
 be a more unequivocal way of expressing approba- 
 tion. — We heard much of a famous painting of 
 Christ by Correggio, in the Mariscalchi Palace. 
 We found it overrated, yet certainly it is a splendid 
 picture. The Saviour of the World is seated in 
 glory ; but the face, though mild and full of com- 
 passion, wants divine expression. The figure, too, 
 
 has a diminutive appearance, which certainly is not 
 in character. Many other paintings in the Maris- 
 calchi Palace are very fine ; and it was a happy re- 
 lief to meet with pictures of the Flemish school, af- 
 ter seeing such tiresome repetitions of scriptural 
 subjects. It would be endless to describe them. 
 Let it then be sufficient to say, that the collection is 
 miscellaneous, and not unworthy of the attention of 
 the traveller. 
 
 Many of the churches have admirable pictures. 
 In those of St Catherine and St Paul, and La Ma- 
 donna, will be found paintings by Schidone, Cig- 
 nani, Guercino, Lodovico Caracci, Andrea del Sarto, 
 &c. Under the arcades of the monasteries, there 
 are innumerable frescoes representing miracles per- 
 fonned by the monks ; and many of them are in 
 good taste, though the painters' names are not 
 upon the roll of fame. 
 
 The interior of the church of San Petronio is 
 striking and grand ; every insignificant circum- 
 stance is kept out of sight, and its general character 
 preserved entire. Near this church, in the Piazza 
 del Giganti, is the celebrated Statue of Nep- 
 tune, by John of Bologna. Yet, notwithstanding 
 all the praise which has been bestowed on it, it ap- 
 peared to me theatrical from every point of view, 
 except the front. The design of the fountain is un- 
 doubtedly good ; but, to a British eye, the accompa- 
 nying mermaids, pressing their breasts, do not ap- 
 pear in taste. 
 
70 
 
 TOWER OF ASINELLI. 
 
 From the top of the tower of Asiiielli, a tall un- 
 stable-looking building, 47(3 feet in height, the fer- 
 tile plain of Lombardy appears like a map beauti- 
 fully illuminated, with gilded towers and buildings 
 of various character from east to west. The 
 Apennines exhibit a semicircle of pleasing forms, 
 robed in snow. The long straight road to Loretto 
 fades away in the horizon, even from so great an 
 elevation. Bologna itself, with its towers, places, 
 churches and monasteries, forms innumerable pic- 
 tures ; and it may be truly said, that the charms 
 of Italy encompass its venerable walls. 
 
 » 
 
 4 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Pietra Mala.— View from the Tower of Forahosche Statues 
 
 in the Palazzo Vecehio.—Piazzo del Granduca and Losi^ia 
 dc Lanzi — Hercules and Centaur, near the Ponti Vccchio. 
 
 Even with a Tarif, * it is almost impossible to es- 
 cape imposition while travelling in Italy ; and the 
 constant battling and grumbling of the postilions 
 rob one of half the pleasure which would be enjoyed 
 ill passing through this delightful country. 
 
 Our journey among the Alps was extremely ro- 
 mantic. The singular and remote gullies, glens, 
 and valleys, seized the imagination, which would 
 sometimes stray upon the sunny banks, and trace 
 the winding streams that lost themselves in misty 
 air, or take its flight to the mountain summits, 
 clothed in the purest snow. 
 
 It was night before we readied Covigliaio. The 
 glow of evening was on the mountains, and all be- 
 low was robed in purple grandeur. One rosy bed 
 of snow, shining in pre-eminent beauty, seemed to 
 mark to the eye the palace of the aerial being that 
 presided over those enchanting scenes ! Robbers 
 
 The Tarif is a bill containing the regulations and rates of 
 posting to prevent the imposition of posiilionb. 
 VOL. I. f 
 
'•*%* 
 
 72 
 
 PIETRA MALA. 
 
 and murderers we never thought of, thougli we 
 were on the very spot where " travellers are said to 
 have daily disappeared."* 
 
 What suii)rised us most among the lofty Apen- 
 nines was the fire perpetually issuing through the 
 ground near Pietra Mala, at the foot of Mount 
 Candida. It rose in lambent Hames among loose 
 earth and stones, depositing a carbonaceous matter 
 volatilized and lying like soot, without peculiar smell. 
 When the wind blew, the flames were noisy, like a 
 bonfire, but in a calm they were silent. In extent, 
 the flame might be eleven feet, and in height, as 
 many inches. When Eustace visited Pietra Mala, 
 the flame, according to his account, covered a space 
 of 140 feet. He must be mistaken in supposing 
 that the slomj soil nourishes the flame. A learned 
 friend, who accompanied us, supposed it to be ig- 
 nited gas having no connection with the upper sur- 
 face ; "certainly giving a powerful heat, and not 
 leaving the ground round about it cold, when it 
 was extinguished for a time, as that elegant author 
 has alleged. We put out the flame in many 
 parts, bu^t in a second or two it commenced, seem- 
 ingly with greater vigour. The Prince Baschocky, 
 five years since, caused an excavation to be made 
 among the flames, and the workmen got as low as 
 six or^seven feet, but the fire increased and rose to 
 such a height, that they were forced to give up 
 proceeding an y farther. Now it appears like the fir e 
 
 • Sec Forsyth, p. 884. 
 
 4 
 
 
 n 
 
 iiiitftrtti-'iin iiflii 
 
7- 
 
 IMETUA MAI.A. 
 
 and mm-dcrcrs nr never thou-lit of. tl.ougli we 
 were o.i tl>e very s-.ot wl.ere " travellers are sai.l to 
 liave (lailv lUsappeared."* 
 
 Whai 'siiri)rise(i us most anion,; tlie lolty Apen- 
 nines N\a> tlie lire i)cri)etually issuin- throii-li the 
 .n-ound near I'ietra Mala, at tl,e foot of Mount 
 Candida. It rose in hunbent tlames aiuonj; loose 
 earth and stones, depositing a earlumaeeons matter 
 vo!atili/ed an<l iy'mi;- likesoot, witlioui peenliar smell. 
 When the wiml bleu, the ilames weie noisy, like a 
 bonfire, b.it in a calm tl-.ey were silent. In extent, 
 the dame mi-ht i)e eleven feet, an.l in Itei-ht, as 
 manv huhes. M-Iu.i 1:um.ux visited Pietra Mala, 
 the iiame, aecorihn;!; tohis aecouiit, covered a space 
 of 110 feet. He i""'*f 1«^' <"i>taken in supposing 
 that the sluiui swi nourishes the Hatne. A learned 
 friend, who accompanieil us, supposed it to be ig- 
 nited gas having no connection with the upper sur- 
 face ; "iertainlv' giving -^ jKnYerful heat, and not 
 leaviii"' tlu- gromid round about it cold, when it 
 wis extin-uis'l.e.l for a time, as that elegant author 
 lias alleired. We put out the Haine in many 
 parts, but in a second or two it commenced, seem- 
 in.dy with greater vigour. The I'rlnce Daschocky, 
 fivT years since, caused an excavation to be made 
 among the Ilames, and the workmen got as low as 
 six oAeven feet, but the lire increased and rose to 
 such a height, that they were forced to give up 
 proceeding any fart her. Now it appears like the lir e 
 
 • S>o Foi-ylli, l>. 8St. 
 
 f 
 
 t 
 
 \\k 
 
 II 
 
ARCHITECTURE OF FLORENCE. 
 
 73 
 
 from the refuse of a coal-mine. The surface of 
 the adjoining hill is composed of slate clay and 
 earth resting upon limestone. 
 
 After continuing our romantic journey near- 
 ly forty miles, Florence at last appeared, seat- 
 ed in the lovely vale of the Amo. Innumerable 
 buildings presented themselves to our astonish- 
 ed sight, " like a thousand flocks upon a thou- 
 sand hills." To give you any idea of this beau- 
 tiful classic city, and the adjacent scenery, I must 
 describe it from one of its lofty towers ; but first 
 allow me to say a word or two on the character 
 of the architecture. 
 
 The palaces, especially the Palazzo Vecchio, 
 Strozzi, Medici or Riccardi, and Pitti, are very 
 massive structures, and seem as if they were built 
 to stand for ever. In former times, the con- 
 tinual struggles of the noble families for pre- 
 eminence, and their frequent and tumultuous at- 
 tacks upon each other, obliged them to erect their 
 dwellings for defence ; and even in more recent 
 days, the anticipation of similar violence has, per- 
 haps, induced them to preserve, in some degree, 
 the massive style. Their palaces, therefore, though 
 certainly grand, are heavy, strong, and gloomy, ap- 
 pear like so many prisons ; and the resemblance is 
 considerably increased by the iron bars of the 
 lower windows, and the iron rings fastened in the 
 walls. 
 
 The architects of some of the principal pa- 
 
74 
 
 ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 laces and other edifices were principally De Lapo, 
 Orcagna, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, &c. and 
 the style of each may be easily traced in their 
 works. De Lapo is gloomy and severe ; Orcagna's 
 Gothic is elegant and chaste ; Brunelleschi is ori- 
 ginal and peculiar ; Michael Angelo is striking and 
 grand. * In fonner times, architecture was not so 
 
 * The noble cornices projected from the roof, supporicd 
 on ornamented brackets, are adopted by all these great archi- 
 tects, and give an air of great dignity to the buildings. Com- 
 paring them in my mind with the tame and clipped appear- 
 ance of the roofs of the houses and public edifices in Britain, 
 I could not help wishing that the cornice had been adopted, 
 in our own country ; — especially in houses, the basement of 
 which are rusticated, like those of lleriot Row, in Edinburgh, 
 A reduction of the height of the roof, too, and some atten- 
 tion to a better form of chimney, would be most desirable. 
 In approaching buildings so situated, that the lower part of 
 them is concealed, we find that their character depends wholly 
 or chiefly on the form of the roof and the chimney. This 
 is particularly the case in Italy, where more variety and 
 taste is occasionally displayed in the chimneys, than in the 
 buildings to which they belong. These chimneys are as pecu- 
 liar and characteristic as palm trees in a tropical climate, and 
 impress us as strongly with the idea of distance from home, 
 where forms of a very diftorcnt kind exclusively prevail. The 
 homely and inelegant appearance of our chimneys, contrasted 
 with the beauty of the buildings which they surmount, is ex- 
 tremely offensive to the eye of taste ; nor does it appear easy 
 to account for the neglect of British architects to so important 
 a part of our edifices, when we consider the laudable attention 
 which is now universally paid to external elegance, as well as 
 to internal accommodation. The chimneys on some of our 
 old buildings are very tastefully decorated, and contribute es- 
 
'v.l I 1 .i- 
 
 Av-XT 
 
 H I MNEYS 
 
 I. E "- C C 
 
 T 
 
 "fh ^ f 
 
 ,1> » A 
 
 COR FU 
 
 Z AN T C 
 
 'rfT 
 
 f^:^ i-^ 
 
 \; 
 
 1* - 
 
 F LOReMtE 
 
 ROME 
 
 PE R U&IA 
 
 ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 75 
 
 much a distinct profession. Every painter was an 
 architect, and hence that variety, originahty, and 
 
 sentiuUy to the beauty of the general cffecl. With such models 
 before their eyes, why should our architects persist in disfi- 
 guring their finest structures, by the shapeless masses of stone 
 and mortar, which necessarily occupy the most conspicuous 
 part ? Convenience cannot well be pleaded for the present 
 form of our chimneys, since it is a fact too well known to us 
 all, that they by no means secure us against the evil of smoky 
 houses; and it is equally well known, that the cans contrived 
 for the cure of smoky vents force the smoke to pass out later- 
 ally, exactly on the principle of the Italian chimneys. But 
 whether chimneys have lateral or vertical apertures, they 
 are equally susceptible of ornament ; and surely the paltry 
 consideration of economy will not be urged as a sufficient rca- 
 son for deprivmg us of the beauty, which, if built with some 
 taste, they might add to our town and country dwellings. We 
 are much mistaken, indeed, if chimneys formed after the 
 Italian models, would not vent much better than those which 
 are at present universal in this country, even with all their ap- 
 paratus of horizontal cans, revolving tin plates, or auld wives 
 groaning as if in a fit of lumbago ; to say nothing of the ad- 
 vantage^of being able to walk in the streets during the most 
 violent winds, without the danger of being felled to the ground 
 by some of these equally frail and homely appendages of our 
 roofs. These appendages, indeed, both in their purpose and 
 appearance, our architects ought to consider as a reproach at 
 once to their skill and their taste. In Calabria, and other 
 parU of Italy, and the Ionian islands, we were very forcibly 
 struck with the consequence which the beauty of the chimneys 
 imparted to the character of the whole building. In the an- 
 nexed plate, I have given the form of a number, taken at ran- 
 dom, which will supersede the necessity of farther description. 
 Though not exactly adapted to our style of building, they may, 
 
-, / 
 
 r 
 
 ■Ka 
 
 u 
 
 » ,> 
 
 H . ;s.icY 
 
 
 ' \r\ -i, % ^' 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 
 P F IJ 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 RCMi 
 
 P I 
 
 ARCIIITECTURL. 
 
 
 much a distinct profession. Every painter was an 
 architect, and hence that variety, originality, and 
 
 t;o:Ui;iiiy to ihc beauty of the general et^lcU Witu such models 
 before their eyes, why should our architects persist in disfi- 
 guring their finest structures, by the shapcle.s masses of stone 
 and mortar, which necessarily occupy the most conspicuous 
 part ? Convenience cannot well be pleaded for the present 
 form of our chimneys, since it is a fact too well known to us 
 all, that they by no means secure us against the evil of smoky 
 hou.ses; and it is equally well known, that the cans contrived 
 for the cure of smoky vents force the smi.ke to pass out later- 
 ally, exactly on the pri.iciple of the Italian chimneys. But 
 whether chinuieys have lateral or vertical apertures, they 
 are equally susceptible of ornament ; and surely the paltry 
 consideration of economy will not be urged as a sullicient rea- 
 son for deprivni- us of the beauty, which, if built with some 
 taste, they mi.i;ht add to our town and country dwellings. We 
 are much mistaken, indeed, if chimneys formed after the 
 Italian models, would not vent much better than those which 
 are at present universal in this country, even with ail their ap- 
 paratus of horizontal cans, revolving tin plates, or auld wives 
 groaning as if in a tit of lumbago ; to say nothing of the ad- 
 vantage of being able to walk in the streets during the most 
 .iolcnt winds, without tlie danger of being felled to the ground 
 by some of these Cipially frail and homely appendages of our 
 roofs. These ai)pen(lages, indeed, both in their purpose and 
 appearance, our aiciiitects ought to consider as a reproach at 
 once to their skill and their taste. In Calabria, and other 
 parU of Italy, and the Ionian islands, we were very foicibly 
 struck with the consequence which the beauty of the chimneys 
 imparted to the ciiatacler of the whole building. In the an- 
 nexed plate, I have given the form of a number, taken at ran- 
 dom, which will supersede the necessity of farther description. 
 Though not exactly adapted to our style of building, they may, 
 
 ■m 
 
76 
 
 TOWER OF FERABOSCHJi:. 
 
 richness of fancy, so conspicuous in the buildings 
 in Plorence. The modern architects, though they 
 display great ability in their general design, have 
 indulged too much in meretricious ornament. The 
 liberal and discerning mind, however, will not 
 dwell on faults, but will endeavour to discover, 
 through the superabundance of detail, those lead- 
 ing features which give a superior air to the Italian 
 edifices. The taste for ornament is extended even 
 to gateways; and I have obser\^ed some which 
 lead to gardens characterized by flowers prettily 
 disposed, while such as belong to vineyards, car^Td 
 in an elegant manner, represent the leaves of the 
 vine tastefully arranged. The Cascine, or public 
 drive, exhibits several examples of these. But not 
 to weary you with these minute details, I shall now 
 describe the general appearance of the city, and its 
 surrounding scenery. 
 
 From the Tower of Ferabosche, the west pre- 
 sents the extensive vale of the Arno, decorated 
 with innumerable buildings and distant towns, 
 rising among the richest possible cultivation of the 
 olive and the vine :— it is a paradise to the eye. From 
 the clearness of the Italian air, the smallest objects 
 are distinctly seen, even to the horizon. The 
 Arno flows in beauty, stealing from the sun his 
 silver light, and waving it among the golden fields. 
 As this lovely river approaches the eye, it assumes 
 
 CATHEDRAL. CHAPEL LORENZO. 
 
 77 
 
 at least, serve to suggest improvements in t}.at department ot" 
 architecture, hitherto so unaccountably neglected in our own 
 country. 
 
 11 
 
 a broad and noble character, gliding under the Ponte 
 Carrajo, and the Porte 8anTrinita. The baptistry 
 of St John, and St Michael's Tower, with various 
 j)alaces and structures, take their station in the glo- 
 rious view. Below the Piazza del Granduca arrests 
 the eye. The Loggia di Lanzi, too, with its sta- 
 tues by Benvenuto Cellini, John of Bologna, and 
 Donatello, join the colossal figures by Michael An- 
 gelo, Bandinelli, and Ammannati ; while human 
 creatures appear like mere spots, as they move 
 among their splendid works. 
 
 Tuniing to the north, the Duomo or Cathedral, 
 with its lofty dome, and other striking features of the 
 to>vn, group together, and command our admiration. 
 
 The Cathedral, though built with alternate lay- 
 ers of marble, black and white, is still very grand ; 
 the great and perceptible lines of the edifice bind 
 the smaller parts together, making them hannonize' 
 with eaih other. The Chapel Lorenzo excites 
 our veneration for the house of Medici, yet it 
 leaves a feeling of regret that such amazing 
 wealth should have been lavished on enrichment 
 which can add nothing to their name. Much 
 of the interior is covered with precious stones, 
 lapis lazuli, jasper, agate, opal, and, indeed, it 
 appears more like a cabinet for the mineralogist 
 than a mausoleum. Behind the varied buildings, 
 beautiful mountains, enriched with vine and olive, 
 relieve the picturesque assemblages of palaces, noble 
 gates, and castellated walls. The east brings Fesole, 
 
78 
 
 FESOLE. VIEW OF FLORENCE. 
 
 and the classic scenes of Milton bound the view: — 
 Fesole, renowned in Etruscan story even before a 
 single stone was laid in Florence, boasting too of 
 remains of antiquity that lead back the mind to 
 the days of Roman grandeur. On the right of 
 Fesole, we trace the hills of Valambrosa, Milton's 
 type of Paradise. 
 
 Directing the eye to the town itself, we may peep 
 into the dwellings of the Florentines, and for a mo- 
 ment sympathize in their vain pleasures and employ- 
 ments. The Ponte Vecchio, loaded with shops of 
 jewellery and splendid trifles, catqhes the passing 
 glance, and leads us to monasteries and hills clothed 
 with luxuriant wood. The gardens of Boboli and 
 the Palazzo Pitti appear in the south, and here tall 
 cypress trees happily unite with the varied build- 
 ings. The Ducal palace, distinguished by its am- 
 plitude and magnificence, seems at once to com- 
 mand the homage of the adjoining edifices, and to 
 offer them protection. The boats on the river, 
 the carriages, and an innumerable multitude, mov- 
 ins: in all directions, enliven the admirable scene. 
 When the eye is brought to the royal gallery, 
 containing some of the finest antiquities in the 
 world, pictures too by the greatest of the ancient 
 masters, the mind feels restless to enjoy the splendid 
 sight ; and who can descend from such a scene of 
 natural and artificial grandeur without sentiments 
 of adoration to the great Creator, and of respect 
 and good will towards his fellow men ? 
 
 STATUES IN THE PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 79 
 
 In the great hall of the Palazzo Vecchio there 
 are many statues by celebrated masters — Michael 
 Angelo, John of Bologna, Rosi, &c. The roof, 
 divided into compartments, is filled with paintings 
 by Vasari, representing the principal events in the 
 lives of the Medici family. In general they are 
 well coloured, full of variety, and not without some 
 good taste, though they rank in only the second 
 scale of art. The Battles of Sienna and of Pisa 
 have considerable merit, but compared with the 
 pictures on the roof, are chalky and somewhat va- 
 pid. Michael Angelo's sculptured Victory, though 
 fine in many parts, and strikingly characteristic of 
 his genius, appeared to me a little fimlty. The 
 subject is a youth standing with his left knee bent 
 on the shoulder of an aged man. In his right hand 
 he holds up a piece of drapery, as if stripping him- 
 self to bathe ! How such an attitude can represent 
 Victory, I do not know. Michael Angelo's fame 
 must rest on his more splendid works in the chapel 
 de Depositi. There is also a Victory by John of Bo- 
 logna, in which Virtue is seen putting down Vice ; 
 but this also is a failure. The figure of Vice is so 
 greatly bent, that the head appears exactly in the 
 centre of the body, from which the limbs branch 
 out like the rays of a star-fish. The hands and 
 aims, too, of the figure of Virtue, are strangely twist- 
 cd into a kind of affected grace, which in such a 
 bulky personage is neither in hannony nor good 
 taste. 
 
STATUES IN THE PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 81 
 
 80 
 
 STATUES IN THE PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 The Hercules and Centaur by Ilosi, like the 
 other marbles in the hall, has its merits and its de- 
 fects The Centaur is represented kicking violent- 
 ly, and although the posture is extremely difficult 
 to execute, the management is true to nature. Her- 
 cules seems to take matters very coolly, and is almost 
 in the attitude of repose with a satyr-like gnn on Ins 
 countenance, which, perhaps, is not quite becoming 
 in the son of Jupiter. In the hall are some other 
 statues of Hercules, referable, 1 presume, to the la- 
 bours of the Medici family; but none of them are 
 much above mediocrity. 
 
 The public colossal statues in the Piazza del 
 Granduca, and those of the Loggia de' Lazi, are 
 works of celebrated masters, and give to Florence 
 an air of peculiar magnificence. I shall begin 
 with the Statue of David, by Michael Angelo. It 
 is a simple upright figure ; the let\ arm bent, holds 
 a sling, and nearly touches his face ; the nght 
 arm hangs down by his side. In attitude the easy 
 sway is pleasing to the eye, but the head and hands 
 appear too large ; and although the anatomy of the 
 breast and limbs does honour even to Michael An- 
 gelo, yet there is an unmeaning vacant expression, 
 which reduces the statue to the level of an academy 
 
 Hercules taming Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli, 
 is an enormous colossal group. Hercules stands 
 upright looking straight before him, with a great 
 bronze club in his hand ; Cacus is between his legs, 
 
 and the left hand of Hercules grasps his hair. This 
 work of Bandinelli has a great name. Stupendous ! 
 Magnificent ! such sounding epithets have been 
 lavished on it, all which must be allowed to be just 
 so far as size is concerned; but, as to taste and per- 
 fection of art, I have my doubts. The expression 
 of muscular strengtli is certainly well represented, 
 but the awkward straddle of Hercules to admit the 
 grinning monster Cacus is rather disgusting. 
 °- Nei'TUNe, the work of Aminannati, stands in 
 the middle of a noble fountain of various coloured 
 marble, surrounded with satyrs in bronze executed 
 with great spirit and character. Among the satyrs 
 is the^figure of a youth in a reclining attitude, with 
 a cornucopiic in his right hand : for beauty and sym- 
 metry the arm and hand can hardly be suqwssed. 
 'J^he sea monsters, which seem to support the figure 
 of Neptune, are represented blowing their shells, 
 from which streams of water lull. The God of 
 the Ocean, viewed from the front, has a constrauied 
 appearance ; both arms hanging down, and parallel 
 to each other, as if they were pinioned. The top 
 of the head, too, is flat and deformed, and this appear- 
 ance is much increased by the metal wreath upon 
 his head. In general character the statue is un- 
 wieldy, bulky, and unpleasing ; and its effect is ren- 
 dered more disagreeable by the diminutive appearance 
 of the car, which seems, besides, to rest in a very 
 awkward manner on the backs of the horses. Some 
 latitude may certainly be allowed in reducing the 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 F 
 
82 
 
 STATUES IX THE PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 size of inferior attributes, for the pui*pose of height- 
 ening the interest of the principal objects ; as in 
 the instance of the miraculous draught of fishes, 
 by Raphael, or in the pedestals which support these 
 statues in the Piazza del Ciranduca. When this 
 licence, however, is carried too far, as in the work 
 before us, the inconsistency is so glaring as to fix 
 the attention on the meaner objects, and thus to 
 frustrate the effect intended. The back view of this 
 statue, however, is very fine ; the muscles are well 
 placed, and there is a general ease in the figure, 
 which forais a very unexpected contrast with its 
 character in front. 
 
 From the figure of Neptune w^e naturally turn 
 to the Equestrian Statue of Cosmo the First, 
 in bronze. Cosmo is not so pleasing as his horse : 
 he appears heavy, without energy. His horse, 
 however, is animated, in good proportion, and no- 
 ble character, robbing his master of a portion of 
 his dignity. 
 
 In the Loggia di Lanzi, an open Gothic build- 
 ing, consisting of a roof supported on arches, (and 
 seemingly used as an exchange,) the sculpture of 
 John of Bologna appears to eclipse all the works of 
 art in the Piazza del G randuca. The group consists of 
 three figures, a handsome and powerful youth, dis- 
 possessing age of a lovely virgin. Originally it was in- 
 tended merely to represent age, manhood, and female 
 beauty ; but as it had no appropriate name, Borg- 
 hini persuaded John of Bologna to call it the Rape 
 
 statues in the PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 83 
 
 OF THE Sabines. The delicacy and symmetry of the 
 female fonii is admirably contrasted with the charac- 
 teristic strength and activity of a courageous youth 
 and the comparative feebleness of age : The group 
 is easy and masteriy, and the whole channs the eye 
 from every point of view ; so much so indeed, that 
 we cannot dwell on any trifling faults, though some 
 might be discovered in the insertion of the muscles. 
 Under a corresponding arch a statue of Perseus, 
 in bronze, by Benvenuto Cellini, of which much 
 has been said in the life of that eccentric character, 
 next claims our observation. This undoubtedly is 
 a meritorious work of art, yet its peculiarities are 
 unpleasing. The figure on a pedestal rests finnly on 
 its right leg, the left knee being a little bent, his 
 right hand is drawn back in a line with his hip, and 
 grasps a sword of rusty iron ; the left ami is con- 
 siderably raised, and the hand grasps Medusa's head. 
 The attitude of Perseus, immediately in front, is 
 characteristic of strength and youth, without being 
 too slender ; the anatomy, too, is well expressed, 
 and free from affectation or extravagance. But, 
 turn to the left side, or examine the figure from 
 behind, and disappointment will certainly follow. 
 The back especially is too long, with an unpleasing 
 bend and unnatural hollow, and the bat-wing ap- 
 pearance of the ams must limit your approbation. 
 Medusa is folded up on a cushion to suit the pe- 
 destal! and a more unaccountable gathering of limbs 
 I hope never to see again. The pedestal is like- 
 
84^ 
 
 STATUES IN THE PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 STATUES IN THE PALAZZO VECCHIO. 
 
 85 
 
 wise by Cellini. Maus, Jupiter, Mercury, and 
 Venus, well executed, are placed in notches ; and 
 although exposed to the public without any protec- 
 tion, they have stood uninjured for more than two 
 centuries and a half. In general, the jTcdestals of 
 all the statues are very small, on puii)ose, no 
 doubt, that they might not intnide upon the 
 subject which they support. 
 
 Besides their great works in sculpture, bronze, and 
 painting, many of the ancient masters did not consider 
 it any degradation to exercise their art on inferior ob- 
 jects ; and I believe it would not be impossible to 
 find the head of a pair of tongs, or the knocker of a 
 door, by Cellini, or John of Bologna; and mirrors, 
 clock-cases, and china jars, by Annibal Caracci and 
 Domenichino. Wliat would our first-rate artists now 
 say, if they were asked to employ their genius on ob- 
 jects so minute, and apparently so degrading? 
 Would not they think themselves greatly insulted, 
 and be disposed to clap their door in the face of the 
 person who should offer them such an indignity ? 
 
 It is going a little out of the way to mention the 
 Hercules and Centaur bv John of Bolojnia, 
 near the end of the Porte Vecchio ; but as it is one 
 of the public ornaments, and was considered by him- 
 self among his best works, I shall venture to offer 
 a remark or two regarding it. Like most of the 
 statues in Florence, this group appears best in front ; 
 the action of both figures is full of energy and ex- 
 pression, and the composition in general judicious ; 
 
 but John of Bologna seems to have given his mind 
 principally to the front view. As we make the circle 
 round the group, the body of Hercules seems to 
 be wanting in anatomical expression ; and when we 
 advance behind the Centaur, it has a miserable ap- 
 pearance, like a mixture of a mule and a cow, lank 
 and ill fonned, exciting no agreeable idea even of 
 the brute creation ; the legs and hoofs, however, 
 are admirable, and seem to be in motion. Viewing 
 the statues from the right, the display of arms, 
 forming a collection of angles, does not appear in 
 good taste. Comparing the whole, generally, with 
 the group of the Rape of the Sabines, it is certain- 
 ly much inferior. * 
 
 • The appearance of public statues in Florence is consider- 
 ably injured by the quantity of black dust that is allowed to 
 remain on them, which, contrasted with the pure parts of the 
 marble, occasionally excites a false idea of light and shade. Cer- 
 tainly it is much against their general effect, and the delicate 
 finishing of the details. 
 
 I 
 
PICTURES IN THE CORRIDOR. 
 
 87 
 
 II 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Remarks on the Series of Ancient Pictures in the Corridor, 
 and Statues and Pictures in the Tribune, 
 
 1 HE collection of pictures and statues in Florence 
 ranks among the first in the world. In the Royal 
 Gallery, the Tribune is enriched with the Venus de 
 Medicis, and many precious marbles and paintings 
 by Raphael, Correggio, and other celebrated mas- 
 ters. Various works of the different schools adorn 
 some other apartments. The vestibule and cor- 
 ridors contain statues, busts of Roman emperors 
 and empresses, portraits of great characters, to- 
 gether with a collection of the eariy works of the 
 Tuscan school. To have even a supei-ficial glance 
 of this superb collection would require several days, 
 and to give a just idea of it as many volumes. 
 
 The Palazzo Pitti likewise boasts of some of 
 the finest productions of the pencil, from Ra- 
 phael to Salvator Rosa, and all in the best state 
 of preservation. Many other palaces, too, abound 
 in pictures, though not of the highest class. The 
 Corsini, Gerini, Mozzi, &c. the Academy della 
 Bella Arte, and many of the churches, have ad- 
 mu-able works in painting, &c. In short, Florence 
 
 is well entitled to be called one of the principal 
 seats of art, and those who have feeling and taste 
 to enjoy its treasures, may be gratified to the ut- 
 most of their wishes. 
 
 With the series of pictures by the eariy masters, 
 to be seen in the corridors of the national collec- 
 tion, I have occasionally amused myself in en- 
 deavouring to trace the progress of taste and colour, 
 but as they are not of the best specimens, and as 
 the collection is by no means complete, I did not 
 advance farther than Gio. Belverti. The series, 
 or history of art, begins with the stiff and gilded 
 manner of the Greek artists of the ninth and tenth 
 centuries, and from them advances through many 
 hands, without any perceptible improvement, ex- 
 cept in drawing. The gilding gives way to a kind of 
 Chinese style, without the slightest knowledge of 
 perspective. With PoUajuolo, the style became bet- 
 ter in colour, and the attributes of the subject are 
 more characteristic. Angelico da Fiesole improved 
 drawing and natural colouring. Lorenzo di Credi 
 has a better taste for composition, and has departed 
 from the monotonous upright attitude ; some of 
 his fiffures he makes to kneel and others to recline, 
 shewing a determination to go out of the beaten 
 track. Ghiriandajo was not afraid of introducing a 
 multiplicity of figures, in which there is often strong 
 impression and natural character. Botticelli shews 
 taste in the drawing of the hands. In the works 
 of Filippo Lippi, the appearance of strong judgment 
 
88 
 
 PICTURES IN THE CORRIDOR. 
 
 STATUES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 89 
 
 itii'H 
 
 is very perceptible, and certainly the composition 
 of his figures and his subject is more agreeable to 
 rule, than in the works of his predecessors, ex- 
 hibiting combinations both pleasing to the eye and 
 consistent with truth. In this manner, design, 
 colouring, and taste, travel in this series through 
 the works of many painters, chiefly of the Tuscan 
 school, till some indication of grace, founded on 
 ideal beauty, appears in the works of Francisco 
 Cossa. His paintings, no doubt, betray a little de- 
 parture from nature ; but still they have grace, and 
 present another view of art. Decided improve- 
 ment in colour begins with Girolamo Macchietti, 
 whose pencil is not so meagre as any of the pre- 
 ceding painters. Then follow Andrea del Minga, 
 Niccolo Betti, Gio. Maria Butteri, &c. Naldini 
 indulges in ideal colouring, with uncommon ef- 
 fect. Lodovico Cardi, like Naldini, adopts ideal 
 colouring; Lorenzo Lippi advances higher in the 
 same department ; and Roselli loses himself in mys- 
 tery. 
 
 This is a short sketch of part of the series, ac- 
 cording to its present arrangement ; but finding, 
 that, although progressive improvement appeared in 
 some particulars, it was lost in others, and that, from 
 the indifferent specimens, no decided advancement 
 appeared in the general view of art, I gave up pro- 
 ceeding any further till I should meet with a more 
 satisfactory collection. 
 
 In the Tribune the first object that caught our 
 
 admiring eyes was the Venus de Medicis ! The 
 female delicacy of this statue cannot be surpassed, 
 nor can the proportions of graceful form ! Casts 
 give no idea of its divine perfections : why, I know 
 not, but, compared with it, they are heavy, and 
 even masculine. The finishing is exquisite, and the 
 beauty of the hands and feet excite an inclination 
 to touch them. It is well that the Venus repre- 
 sents no favourite saint, otherwise her pretty feet 
 would be kissed away. *' Does she want expres- 
 sion ?" I am afraid to speak. The Venus must be 
 faultless, — else how could she have reigned over 
 every heart for so many centuries ? 
 
 The Young Apollo has much of the expression 
 of a beautiful female, — especially the head. The 
 attitude is sweet and easy, and from the gentle 
 yielding of the body, the most bewitching grace 
 captivates the soul ! The feet are exquisite. 
 
 The head of the Dancing Fawn is a restoration 
 by Michael Angelo, and it appeared to me that 
 the expression of the face has too much of age. 
 The general air of the favourite statue is extreme- 
 ly pleasing, though it has a little cast of ine- 
 briety. 
 
 The group of the Wrestlers, like the other cele- 
 brated marbles, is much admired. The subject 
 being extremely difficult, required the hand and 
 eye of a great and skilful artist. As far as re- 
 lates to the general character of youthful fonns, 
 they are very pleasing, but it cannot be denied 
 that they want expression in the countenances, and 
 
90 
 
 STATUES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 that energy and activity of body, which certainly 
 would be strongly indicated in violent action. 
 Would it not be natural for the fallen wrestler to 
 exert himself to get the better of his antagonist, 
 who is above him ? But no ! he is merely in an 
 attitude, slightly knitting his brow, which may be 
 said to have no meaning. The way, too, in which 
 the conquering wrestler holds his adversary's hand, 
 may be elegant, but it is not the grasp of power. 
 The parallel stringy character of the legs is barely 
 nature. In short, they are but statues, and we 
 naturally go coldly up to criticise, instead of feeling 
 the emotion of starting back, as we should do at 
 such an exhibition in reality. 
 
 The Knife Grinder is represented looking up- 
 wards, an attitude which, I suppose, the artist 
 judged necessary, owing to the short and con- 
 tracted appearance of the figure. Had the sculp- 
 tor intended his subject to be in the act of list- 
 ening to the Cataliue conspiracy, it might have 
 been as well, had he introduced some subordi- 
 nate circumstance to illustrate his meaning ; from 
 the expression of the countenance, it would be dif- 
 ficult to know to what it should be referred. 
 The calf of the left leg, joined to the opposing 
 thigh, and the right thigh and leg, are not of the 
 most pleasing or natural fonns ; but this, I fear, is 
 speaking treason. Tlie Knife Grinder has great 
 admirers, and, I have no doubt, will always have, 
 notwithstanding any observations that may be made 
 against it. Many parts are good, and referable 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 91 
 
 to nature, though the vulgarity of the slave seems 
 the paramount expression. 
 
 The pictures in the Tribune, which is a small 
 room, lighted from above, are all of a superior class. 
 They consist of the works of Raphael, Michael 
 Angelo, Correggio, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, 
 Andrea del Sarto, Bartolonnneo, Paul Veronese, 
 Annibal Caracci, PaiTuigiano, Guercino, Dome- 
 nichino, Guido, Rubens, Vandyke, &c. the whole 
 exhibiting a pretty fair display of the comparative 
 merits of the different painters. 
 
 The favourite pictures seem to be those of 
 Raphael, Correggio, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci,' 
 and Andrea del Sarto. 
 
 To attempt to give an idea of the individual 
 pictures, would indeed be a vain undertaking ; I 
 shall therefore confine myself to a few of the most 
 remarkable, touching slightly on others. 
 
 Raphael excelled in portrait, as well as scrip- 
 tural and historical subjects. His Pope Julius H. 
 is perhaps one of the finest portraits in the world. 
 The tranquil dignity of an aged man, thinking 
 more of heaven than of earth, is expressed with 
 wonderful felicity.* In style, the painting is marked 
 
 * If this picture was intended as a faithful portrait of 
 Julius, his physiognomy certainly gave no indication of his 
 ambitious, enterprising, and overbearing disposition. May 
 not Raphael, by a happy and delicate mixture of flattery and 
 reprooi; have softened the peculiarities of the countenance of 
 Julius into that general expression of mildness and urbanity 
 by which the Holy Father ought to be characterized ? 
 
92 
 
 PICTURES IS THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 by simplicity and breadtli, and tlie colouring, 
 though rich and deei), is not dark or unintelligible. 
 His Faurnerina is likewise an astonishing pic- 
 ture, entirely free of manner, exhibiting a fair and 
 faithful representation of nature, under the most 
 agreeable and bewitching effect. Not a sin^-le 
 mark of the pencil is discernible, all is soft and 
 tender, shewing the most perfect knowledge of the 
 mechanism of painting. In expression, however, 
 the Faumerina is somewhat pert or insolent; but it 
 is the portrait of a baker's wife, a lady, who, I be- 
 lieve, was of questionable virtue. In colourin^^ 
 the picture is in a low tone, but not dark ; the only 
 unpleasing line is that of the dress, which cuts 
 upon the neck. 
 
 The Virgin Mary, with the Infant Jesus upon 
 her neck, and holding out her hand to John, has 
 a most divine expression, and ranks amon<r the 
 finest pictures of this master. The finishing is ex- 
 quisite, without any unnecessary hardness of line ; 
 and the mellow landscape and light grey sky, harmo- 
 nize agreeably with the colouring of the figures. 
 In this picture, Raphael has contrived to convey 
 the idea of daylight, notwithstanding the depth 
 and richness of his glazings. Near this picture 
 hangs another Holy Fa iviily, corresponding in size, 
 and an undoubted production of Raphael's. The 
 maternal tenderness in the countenance of Mary 
 is quite peculiar to this master, who seems to have 
 studied more successfully than any other painter 
 the amiable affections of the heart. Perhaps the 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 93 
 
 drawing of the Infant Christ and John is not 
 so perfect as might have been expected from the 
 immortal Raphael's hand. The right leg of both 
 appears defective ; and the foot of St John, with its 
 toes spread out, is not in perfect taste. 
 
 In his picture of John the Baptist, Raphael 
 has completely sustained the beau ideal in his mind 
 throughout the figure, though it seems to have 
 been studied from nature. As a picture of light 
 and shade, it has not many equals. The colour- 
 ing, however, is rather tawny or foxy, owing to 
 the shadows obscuring the delicate tones and co- 
 louring of the flesh ; but this defect is amply made 
 up by exquisite expression and anatomical accu- 
 racy. 
 
 It has been said, that Michael Angelo pronounced 
 painting in oil to be an employment fit only for wo- 
 men and children. Certainly he has not painted 
 many pictures, — three, I believe, at most. That of 
 the Holy Family in the Tribune is considered 
 his best perfoniiance ; yet it has many defects, and 
 proves that great artist to have been a little rash in 
 speaking slightingly of an art, which he himself 
 has not been able to conquer. It must be under- 
 stood, however, that I allude chiefly to dexterity 
 of execution, aerial keeping, or a proper subordina- 
 tion of colour, together with that expression of tea:- 
 ture, which best conveys the characters of truth. 
 The colouring of his flesh cannot be said to be na- 
 tural. Its hard; liney, metallic, and meagre ap- 
 
94> 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 pearance, is most unpleasing to the eye ; and why 
 the flesh of the figures on the back-ground should be 
 of the same colour and strength with that of the near- 
 er objects, I am at a loss to know. The fonn of the 
 subject is pyramidal. Joseph stands behind the Vir- 
 gin Mary, but is too evidently placed there for the 
 puq)ose of composition. He holds the Infant 
 Jesus upon the right shoulder of the Virgin, who 
 is sitting in a squat unplcasing attitude, looking up 
 towards the child ; and a more ungainly foreshort- 
 ening of face I have seldom seen. Her anus, too, 
 are poorly drawn, and the profusion of blue tba- 
 pery divides the figure, while there is no contriv- 
 ance to relieve it from that defect. The foot of 
 Joseph is too small ; and, for a time, I was much 
 at a loss to know to whom it belonged. Upon the 
 whole, this Holy Family, by Michael Angelo, can- 
 not be said to be a pleasing picture in colouring, 
 handling, or design. Why a number of naked 
 academy-looking figures should appear in the back- 
 ground, seems a little puzzling ; they have no re- 
 ference whatever to the subject, nor do they, in 
 any degree, assist its defects. The head of Joseph 
 is the finest part of the painting, and the folds to 
 the draperies are well cast. 
 
 Much ingenious mechanism and patience is ne- 
 cessary to paint in oil. It likewise requires parti- 
 cular pains and care, and does not generally admit 
 of the hasty impressions of thought. Fresco paint- 
 ing, on the other hand, may be said to be always 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 95 
 
 ready to assist the pencil, in giving that energetic 
 mastery so suitable to the genius of Michael An- 
 gelo. In the former, he might have felt himself 
 in trammels ; but the latter, presenting no obsta- 
 cles to immediate and daring execution, gave am- 
 ple liberty to his splendid mind. Yet greater 
 praise is due to Raphael and Correggio, who have 
 been able to control the intemperance of feel- 
 ing, and give to the world the brightest exam- 
 ples which we may ever hope to see, of that mode 
 of painting which can best express the delicacy of 
 Truth, in her attire of grace and beauty. 
 
 Herodias by Leonardo da Vinci, with the head 
 of St John in a charger, held by a disgusting 
 looking ruffian, is the next picture on which I 
 shall offer a few remarks. The countenance of 
 Herodias is extremely beautiful, with that pecu- 
 liar character which distinguishes all da Vinci's 
 female heads. In the present instance, however, 
 it does not appear to me to be in unison with the 
 nature of the subject. Herodias, in the presence 
 of a murderer, who carries a head bathed in blood, 
 shouldhavehadadifferent expression thanmereplacid 
 self-possession. Surely no female could be so desti- 
 tute of feeling, as not to shew a single ray of sensibi- 
 lity on such an occasion. But, even if Herodias was 
 so callous and cold, Leonardo da Vinci would have 
 been forgiven, had he, for the honour of the sex^ 
 thought it impossible that she could be quite so 
 hardened. The ruffian, with the head in a char- 
 
 VOL. I. t 
 
96 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 PICTL RES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 ger, has been much admired ; but, in truth, he is 
 neither more nor less than one of these unmeaning 
 caricatures, which Leonardo da Vinci occasion! 
 ally anmsed himself in designing. I'he mere want 
 of a tooth, added to deformity, can never express 
 the ferocious and black-hearted look of a murderer. 
 In execution, this picture is absolutely marvel- 
 lous. Nothing can exceed the delicacy of finishing ; 
 not the slightest touch of a brush is visible in any 
 part ; the figures seem to appear through a succes- 
 sion of transparent colours. Whether Leonardo 
 da Vinci's mode of finishing is produced by careful 
 labour, or whether the colours are floated in some 
 mechanical manner, is uncertain. Wouvermans^ 
 Carlo Doki, Vanderheyden,and some other painters, 
 are supposed to have had some expeditious method 
 of procedure in addition to their accurate finishing. 
 The number of pictures, indeed, attributed to them, 
 would give countenance to such a supposition. I 
 believe, the polishing brush is perfectly adequate 
 to all the softness which has hitherto been pro- 
 duced. But although softness and delicacy are ex- 
 tremely fascinating and applicable to many subjects, 
 the ancient masters have generally preferred a vi- 
 gorous style. Even Correggio, who is supposed to 
 have carried to perfection the finishing of pencil, 
 ling, only adopts it in occasional parts, and is by no 
 means free from a strong empasted manner. 
 ^ The picture of the Repose in the Tribune, by 
 Correggio, is finnly painted with a bold decided 
 
 97 
 
 
 pencil, and in effect and colouring is almost per- 
 fect. On tlie other hand, what a pretty specimen 
 of finishing is the adjoining picture of the Virgin 
 AND Christ, though certainly not carried to the 
 extreme, as in the paintings of Vanderworf, or 
 even to the notion generally entertained of Cor- 
 reggio's finishing. 
 
 In other respects, both of the pictures are some- 
 what faulty. In the former, the sentiment is in- 
 differently sustained. Joseph behind the Virgin, 
 who is sitting with tlie infant Jesus standing on 
 her knee, appears to be pulling down the branch 
 of a tree on the right of tlie picture ; a monk ap- 
 pears in orders grey, in a kneeling position, and 
 apparently advancing towards our Saviour, who 
 seems to be afraid of him. The Virgin Mary, not at- 
 tending either to the one or the other, looks stupidly 
 proud and unamiable. Wliy this inconsistency of 
 expression? The space between the monk and 
 the principal group appears too great, and is in some 
 degree injurious to the general effect. 
 
 The arrangement of the colours is as follows : 
 Joseph is in a light pink drapery, with an orange 
 plaid and a piece of white cloth round his waist. 
 Mary is dressed in whitish yellow, with a blue robe 
 passing round her. The light on all the fi^rures, 
 except the monk, is of the same brightness; which 
 tempted me to wish that breadth had been obtained 
 by means more natural. 
 
 In the small painting, the Virgin Mary is repre- 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 o 
 
98 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 99 
 
 sented on her knees in an inclined position, look- 
 ing over the infant Christ, who is lying on his back 
 upon the ground, on a scanty piece of white dra- 
 pery laid on straw. The feminine expression of 
 Mary is delicate, though it seems to border on 
 insipidity ; her left hand is feebly drawn, and she 
 puts up both in a manner somewhat childish. I 
 may also add, that the infant is much too small ; 
 yet the picture altogether is most attractive, and 
 proclaims the grace and delicate taste of the divine 
 Correggio. 
 
 The celebrated Venus by Titian, with thekneel- 
 ing figure in the back ground, ranks among the 
 finest paintings in the Tribune. From its present 
 appearance, however, I suspect that the restorers 
 have been at work upon it. The characteristic rich- 
 ness and tone of Titian's pencil has given way to 
 chalky whiteness ; besides, the effect is flat, with- 
 out rotundity, which surely was not a fault of 
 Titian's. 
 
 Paul Veronese always paints with finnness, and 
 thinks decidedly for himself; though sometimes 
 his lights on various colours are too much of one 
 whitish tone. This, no doubt, produces breadth; but 
 is it nature ? His finest pictures, however, are with- 
 out this peculiarity, or at least it is not so percep- 
 tible. 
 
 The Virgin and Child with Angels, St John 
 THE Evangelist, and St Francis, by Andrea 
 del Sarto, is an extremely popular picture. 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 This celebrated master never offends in colouring, 
 because he never attempts any thing violent. In 
 character, it is richness subdued, highly pleasing 
 to the eye, yet quite compatible with his sub- 
 ject. His introduction of a warm grey, instead 
 of brown, as a general leading and harmonizing 
 colour throughout the shadows of his picture, 
 has a fine effect ; and, although the picture is 
 hung among others, in which crimsons, the pu- 
 rest blues, and oranges prevail, with all their 
 glazings, it keeps its ground, and even indicates 
 that his style is better adapted to sentiment than 
 when powerful colouring is discernible. This pic- 
 ture by Andrea del Sarto is so extremely pleasing, 
 that it is with reluctance we look upon it with the 
 eye of criticism ; yet the placing of Mary upon a 
 pedestal makes the composition appear so mecha- 
 nical, that we can hardly give it approbation, not- 
 withstanding that she is w^ell supported by saints 
 and angels. 
 
 The Holy Family, by Parmigiano, near the 
 picture of Andrea del Sarto, is a singular example 
 of mannerism and beauty. From its appearance, 
 one would think that snow had fallen on the figures, 
 and was trickling down the draperies and hair; 
 evidently indicating that his system of ideal beau- 
 ty was erroneous, or, at least, that he carried it 
 too far; — making all the lights to run parallel to 
 each other from the top to the bottom of the figures. 
 Parmigiano has likewise had some strange fancy 
 
100 
 
 PICTURES IN THE TRIBUNE. 
 
 fflf a 
 
 about the effect of hair, which is displayed in such 
 profusion, as to be tiresome to the eye. The head and 
 shoulders of St John, stuck in the corner of the pic- 
 ture, has such an expression of wildness, that it makes 
 one almost imagine that such an appearance might 
 frighten the rest of the Holy Family, or disturb 
 their repose. But abstracting the mannerism and 
 strange conceit in which the picture is involved, 
 lovely nature will appear in the infants, and dignity 
 and grace in the Virgin. I have mentioned this 
 picture particularly, because it distinctly shows, 
 that, although a certain arrangement of form may 
 display taste, if it be carried to excess, it becomes 
 deformity. 
 
 In offering my general opinion of the paint- 
 ings in the Tribune, I would presume to say, that, 
 with the exception of the portraits, the failure in 
 almost all the masters is the want of appropriate 
 mental expression, 
 
 \ \ 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Pictures of the Venetian School. — Tuscan School Dutch 
 
 School — Flemish and German School. — Description of a 
 Landscape by Claude. — French School. — Observations on 
 the Origin of Landscape-Painting in the Grand Style. — 
 
 French School continued. — Portraits. — Salle de Frate 
 
 Some account of the various grounds tvhich several of the 
 Painters have used — Copyists — Statues of the Niobe 
 Family — Observations on Mr CockereWs idea regarding 
 the Niobe Marbles — Rubens Battles^ and entry of Henry 
 
 IV. into Paris y in the Salle de Niobe Statue of the 
 
 Hermaphrodite. — Bronzes and Gems. — Marbles in the Cor- 
 ridor, — Observations on the measuring of Statues, 
 
 1 HE pictures of the Venetian school in the gal- 
 lery of Florence are not numerous, but many of 
 them are of high celebrity ; especially the portraits 
 by Titian, Giorgione, Sebastian del Piombo, Paris 
 Bordone, Morone, and Tintoretto. The works of 
 these great men seem not only to exalt the dig- 
 nity of portrait-painting, but of the persons whom 
 they represent. 
 
 At the head of all stands the immortal Titian. 
 The grave, quiet grandeur of his style, makes an 
 immediate impression on the mind, and we are na- 
 turally led to inquire whether it be from an ideal 
 
102 
 
 VENETIAN SCHOOL. 
 
 VENETIAN SCHOOL, 
 
 103 
 
 i 
 
 dignity which he infuses into his pictures, or that 
 they are just representations of individual character. 
 Such they certainly are. The internal evidence of 
 truth in every feature cannot be resisted, but it is 
 the happiest choice of expression which he seizes, 
 that expression which escapes the feeble or the 
 careless observer. The ancient dresses, too, assist 
 in giving grandeur, not only from their form, but 
 their colour and variety. His broad commanding 
 style, without flimsy trickery, and even the texture 
 and surface of his pictures, contribute essentially 
 to dignity. His finest portraits are those of the 
 Due d'Urbino, his own Mistress, and the Head 
 OF a Warrior. There are some, however, even 
 better than these in the Palazzo Pitti ; and here I 
 may observe, that it is from his portraits in general 
 that I have formed my opinion of the splendour of 
 his style, and not particularly from his works in 
 the Royal Gallery. 
 
 Sebastian del Piombo's Head of a Warrior 
 is well conceived, and ranks among the finest pic- 
 tures. The representation of the eyes, glancing in 
 gloom, and portentous of death and destruction, 
 is highly poetical and appalling. 
 
 Paris Bordone is in the school of Titian and 
 Giorgione : his portraits have a noble air, and are 
 painted with wonderful mastery. Moron e is not 
 so lofty ; yet there is a placid repose and senatorial 
 gravity in his pictures, which is extremely pleasing. 
 The portraits by Paul Veronese, Tintoretto, and 
 
 1 
 
 ..i 
 
 Bassan, have a different character ; nature expres- 
 sed with a clever pencil, clear colouring, and effect, 
 are their characteristic qualities. 
 
 The finest subjects are by Paul Veronese, Tin- 
 toretto, and Titian ; and (strange to say) there is 
 a musical party by Bassan, without mannerism or 
 vulgarity. Tintoretto's Marriage of Cana in 
 Galilee may fairly claim the most distinguished 
 praise. Numerous figures, sitting at the feast in 
 perspective, display a surprising variety of attitude, 
 and some female figures on the fore-ground cannot 
 fail to captivate the admirers of graceful form. The 
 subject, though difficult, is treated with great in- 
 genuity and apparent ease, and the colouring and 
 effect seem faultless. 
 
 The Death of St Justina, and another small 
 picture of St Catherine kneeling, are perhaps 
 the best paintings by Paul Veronese; indeed, they 
 are both excellent. In the former the back ground 
 is painted round the figures, which gives a decision 
 to the heads perhaps a little too harsh. In the 
 latter I found little to censure ; but some ladies 
 have been heard to say, that they could not dis- 
 cover what stuff the dress was intended to repre- 
 sent, owing to the lights being so different from 
 the colour of the drapery. The observation cer- 
 tainly had point, and was referable to the manner- 
 ism of the master. 
 
 The principal painters of the Tuscan school are 
 Cigoli, Carlo Dolci, Cristofani Allori, Alessandro 
 
104 
 
 TCSCAN SCHOOL. 
 
 TUSCAN SCHOOL. 
 
 105 
 
 Allori, Leonardo da Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, 
 Fra. Bartolommeo, Mariotto Albertinelli, Luc- 
 chere, Ghirlandajo, Philippo Lippi, Santi di Tito, 
 Vasari, and Pontormo. Of these masters there 
 are many excellent specimens in the Royal Gallery. 
 The Infant Christ sleeping on a cross, by 
 Christofano Allori, is one of the most exquisite 
 cabinet pictures of the school. Perfect repose 
 dwells on the sweetest countenance ; serene and 
 quiet tones of colouring are perceptible through- 
 out the picture, and call forth the strongest feel- 
 ings of admiration. Next to this beautiful painting, 
 THE Salutation, by Mariotto Albertf, seems 
 to be the most deservedly popular. The subject con- 
 sists of two female figures representing the Virgin 
 Mary and Saint Elizabeth shaking hands. Deli- 
 cacy and divine modesty never were more happily 
 expressed than in the figure of the Virgin ; so 
 gentle ! so meek ! she recals the numerous associa- 
 tions of respect and tenderness with which we re- 
 gard the sex. In the paintings of Fra. Barto- 
 lommeo, and in the works of several other masters, 
 I have found the same figure of the Virgin Mary 
 apparently copied from Albertinelli. In a conver- 
 sation, however, which I had with the professor of 
 painting, I was informed that it is really the pro- 
 perty of Fra. Bartolommeo, and not of Albertinelli. 
 As a corroboration of this, I was shewn a similar fi- 
 gure by Bartolommeo, in different points of view. 
 The system of plagiarism is so common in Italy* 
 
 even among contemporary masters, that it needed 
 not have excited my surprise ; this figure, however, 
 of the Virgin being so extremely beautiful, I was 
 curious to know its history. 
 
 The Medusa's Head, by Leonardo da Vinci, 
 is painted in his highly finished manner ; and, if 
 it was his intention to excite disgust and horror, he 
 certainly has succeeded. Nothing can be more re- 
 volting than the glazed eye, between life and 
 death, and the blood flowing among snakes that 
 almost appear alive, the pestiferous breath of 
 Medusa mingling with their writhings. 
 
 In the second apartment of the Tuscan school 
 may also be seen the famous sketch of the Adora- 
 tion OF THE Magi, by Leonardo da Vinci. To 
 the practical artist it is interesting, as helping to 
 disclose the nature of his process ; to all appearance 
 it is the commencement of a picture which he 
 had intended to finish. The general eflPect of 
 light and shade is produced with asphaltum, in 
 many places extremely deep in colour, especially 
 behind the figures, and upon trees. The figures 
 are light, of the colour of the pannel, which i^ of a 
 wann leather tone, and their shadows are of a rich 
 opaque grey. 
 
 There are many other beautiful pictures of the 
 Tuscan school. The St Francis by Cigoli, and 
 the small picture of the same subject by Alles^andro 
 Allori ; some pictures, too, by Carlo Dolci, Zuc- 
 
 I 4 
 
106 
 
 DUTCH SCHOOL. 
 
 I 
 
 FLEMISH AND GERMAN SCHOOL. 
 
 107 
 
 chere, Vasari, Andrea del Sarto, Ghirlandajo, &c. 
 are worthy of minute and careful observation. 
 
 The room containing pictures of the Dutch 
 School boasts of many of the most delightful spe- 
 cimens of the various painters, and although they do 
 not address the mind, like the works of the Italian 
 masters, they have peculiar charms of their own, 
 which will ever gratify the admirers of familiar 
 nature. The execution of many of them in deli- 
 cacy of pencilling, and fine discrimination of colour 
 and eflPect, would not disgrace the higher branches 
 of art. The pictures of Metzu, Mieris, Gerard 
 Dow, Netscher, Terburg, Rembrandt, Van Balen, 
 Schalken, Brower, Adrian Vander\Tldt, De Lair, 
 Slingland, Ruysdael,and many others, are extremely 
 fine; and I have found, that they are more gener- 
 ally popular than the works of the other schools. 
 Like pastoral poetry, they are understood and felt 
 by all, while the works of Michael Angelo, Sebas- 
 tian del Piombo, Cigoli, and other great masters, 
 like the poems of Homer, Milton, and Dante, are 
 enjoyed by only the inspired or initiated few. For 
 a similar reason, Raphael, Correggio, Guido, Par- 
 migiano, and other painters of the Italian school, 
 whose works are characterized by beauty, have a 
 fairer chance for general admiration than those who 
 have studied to embody conceptions of severe and 
 abstract grandeur. 
 
 Among the paintings of Flemish and German 
 Schools, there are several excellent pictures, but 
 
 none that rank extremely high. The Tenniers, 
 
 Albert Durer, Elzheimers, Denner and Brills, 
 
 are the best. The Graces was a subject above 
 
 Rubens' conception of beauty, but it is pleasing 
 
 to see, that this great master has condescended to 
 
 copy a Bacchanalian subject from Titian, with all 
 
 the sport and character of the original. The finest 
 
 pictures by Rubens are in the same room with the 
 
 statues of Niobe, and I shall not fail to give you 
 
 some account of them. In the mean time, let me 
 
 attempt to describe a splendid picture by Claude 
 
 Loraine, which is unaccountably hung among the 
 
 paintings of the Flemish school. 
 
 This exquisite and perfect picture represents 
 the Sun Rising among buildings, shipping, and 
 figures ; and, in point of composition, is equal to 
 any of the finest of Claude's paintings to be seen 
 in England. Indeed, it is impossible to conceive 
 any work of art, in which more consummate skill, 
 or a more intimate knowledge of nature, can be dis- 
 played. The sun absolutely appears to shine and 
 sparkle upon the various objects, which are so 
 judiciously arranged, as to give effect and sentiment 
 combined. No positive outline appears among 
 the buildings ; the objects are so sweetly blended 
 into each other, that nothing individually intrudes 
 itself through the illuminated misty air, though, 
 when curiously examined, innumerable interesting 
 details develope themselves in the most captivating 
 manner. On the fore-ground, the connecting 
 

 108 
 
 FRENCH SCHOOL. 
 
 figures, colours, shadows, and touches of brilliancy 
 on silver vases and musical instruments, unite with 
 the whole subject, exciting altogether the happy 
 feelings connected with a lovely morning. It is 
 in such effects that the inimitable Claude, like the 
 glorious sun which he represents, appears to shine. 
 He does not aim at mere effect, nor combinations 
 of objects for trifling purposes, but to excite senti- 
 ment and feeling, to remind us of past joys, and 
 impart new delight. 
 
 In the same room with this beautiful picture 
 there is another picture of Claude's, representing a 
 Rural Scene with Dancing Fig ures, but, though 
 very fine, it cannot be compared with the former. 
 The repeated glazings have given it a dark and 
 sombre cast, not in unison with the merry villagers, 
 or the light and air which should be expressed in 
 such a scene. Yet, when the picture is brought 
 into a powerful light, it appears transparent, ex- 
 hibiting the richest colouring in perfect hannony. 
 On the subject of the composition of Claude, I 
 shall offer a few remarks, when I have seen his 
 pictures in the Doria Palace in Rome. 
 
 In the apartment of the French school there 
 are few names of great note. The Dutch, Ve- 
 netians, Italians, and the modern English, have 
 looked at nature for themselves, and discovered her 
 various characters. But the French, with the ex- 
 ception of a distinguished few, have comparatively 
 done but little. We look in vain for well selected 
 
 FRENCH SCHOOL. 
 
 109 
 
 \i 
 
 nature on those lofty principles of combination, 
 which result from purity of thought. Vain-glorious 
 frippery and mannerism, and trifling, mark their 
 works. There is a difference surely between stu- 
 dying nature and looking at her works with levity 
 and self-conceit. Their glancing over surfaces, 
 their musings on ancient statues, and measure- 
 ments of tlieir proportions, have not shewn them 
 where the great sculptors of old have found perfec- 
 tion ; their works can barely please the eye, and 
 seldom reach the mind. As nature allows no sin- 
 ning against her with impunity, the French school, 
 if so it may be called, stands comparatively degrad- 
 ed in the world's discerning eye. But from their 
 numerous list of painters names may be taken, which 
 fame and nature must acknowledge, and these are 
 Claude Loraine, Nicolo, and Gasper Poussin, 
 Bourdon, Le Brun, Le Sieur, Watteau, Borgog- 
 none, and some others ; men who, though not hi 
 the very highest rank of art, are entitle'd to gra- 
 titude and admiration. 
 
 Landscape-painting has been ennobled by the 
 pencils of the Poussins; and in this department, as 
 far as it relates to original character, and a fine 
 general view of nature, combined with a certain 
 lofty expression, they stand unrivalled. The gaU 
 lery of Florence, however, contains no good speci- 
 mens of their works in this department. 
 
 Landscape-painting, in the grand style, appears 
 to me to have been wholly indebted for its elevated 
 
110 
 
 FRENCH SCHOOL. 
 
 character to the scriptural and historical painters, 
 and may have been suggested to them by their in- 
 troducing into many of their pictures back-grounds 
 of landscape, which would not admit of much de- 
 tail, and regard only general and simple forms. 
 Improving upon the hint thus suggested to them, 
 it may be said, by accident, they have produced a 
 higher style and a broader view of nature. But it 
 is worthy of remark, that the grand style is, gene- 
 rally speaking, exclusively in their hands;— some, 
 who devote themselves to landscape-painting solely, 
 are more attached to beauty or the picturesque. 
 
 But to return to the room of the French school 
 in the Royal Galleiy. The portraits of Phillipe 
 Champagne, and Pierre Meynard, are carefully 
 finished, yet free and natural, though not in an 
 elevated style. A Holy Family, by Nicholas 
 Loir, is chaste, but a little vapid. Parrocel's and 
 Courtois's battles are animated and clever in pen- 
 cilling. Gagnerous of Dijon's pictures, in the style 
 of Woverman's, are spirited, but far behind the 
 master whom he seems to imitate. Le Naire has 
 taste; his Adoration of the Shepherds is by no 
 means despicable, especially in colouring. Bouher, 
 Vanloo, and Javenet, are completely French. Vou- 
 et is full of vapouring and flurry. Vermet's 
 landscapes are masterly and firm, but somewhat 
 flimsy ; he has neither texture nor surface, nor 
 does he often express the pure tones of nature. 
 Clarisseau's ruins display mannerism, and are sel- 
 
 PORTRAITS OF PAINTERS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 dom composed with taste ; he gives too much 
 when we^ want but little. As there are none of 
 Le Brun's, Sebastian Bourdon's, or Fresnoy's 
 works of any consequence in the gallery, I forbear 
 to speak of them. A small upright Gaspar Pous- 
 sin is well composed, but too dark. Niccolo Pons- 
 sin's Venus and Adonis is beautifully drawn and 
 well designed ; his Theseus, too, is a pleasing pic- 
 ture, but neither, comparing him with himself, has 
 claims to extraordinary admiration. The best 
 landscape is by Boguet, a modern painter, but it 
 wants a middle ground ; the transition from great 
 objects to small ones is unpleasing to the eye ; in 
 other respects, however, the picture is well com- 
 posed, the pencilling remarkably free and firm, 
 and the aerial perspective well sustained. I could 
 wish, however, that his pencilling or touches were 
 less perceptible and proportioned to the various dis. 
 tances. 
 
 The apartment of Portraits of Painters con- 
 tains about 400 in number, executed generally by 
 themselves. Rembrandt's, Rubens', and Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds' pictures have the most luminous and 
 striking effect, and appear like diamonds among 
 the rest ; many of the others are admirable work*^ 
 of art, and as cabinet pictures, might perhaps be 
 preferred for their exquisite finishing ;— those es- 
 pecially by Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Titian, 
 Parmigiano, Tintoretto, Gerhard Douw, Carlo 
 Dolci, Vandyke, &c. 
 
 VOL. 1. f 
 
^ 
 
 112 
 
 PORTRAITS OF PAINTERS. 
 
 SALLE DE FRATE. 
 
 113 
 
 The portrait of Leonardo da Vinci is a fine old 
 head, with a mild expression and flowing beard, 
 painted in his usual smooth transparent manner. 
 The glazings are very thick, and in many parts of 
 the picture are cracked and honey-combed in a 
 strange and singular manner, yet not so much as 
 to injure the drawing or beauty of the picture. In 
 Rembrandt's portraits we can trace his magic 
 pencil in every part, his fine eye for colour never 
 fails to place the most delightful tones in harmony 
 with each other. 
 
 Masaccio da Giovanni's portrait is in fresco, 
 an admirable sketch, but fresco does not seem well 
 adapted for portrait-painting. 
 
 Vanderwerf carries his finishing to an excess, 
 which is unsuitable to portrait-painting ; his picture 
 wants spirit, and looks like a coloured mezzotinto 
 engraving : — even Carlo Dolci loses character in 
 his finishing. Schalken's portrait, too, (a candle- 
 light effect,) is in the same predicament. Gerhard 
 Douw, on the other hand, though he finishes very 
 highly, contrives to give more spirit and animation : 
 Denner is tiresome ; when looking at his works, we 
 can think of nothing but weary toil and months of 
 painful drudgery. 
 
 A collection of portraits is a spotty and fatiguing 
 exhibition. Those, however, who are fond of 
 the study of physiognomy, may find much to 
 amuse them. As noble liberal-lookinnr men of 
 
 I 
 
 talent, I would class Reynolds with Rubens, Le- 
 onardo da Vinci, N. Poussin, Titian, &c. as hard 
 featured men of genius, Michael Angelo with 
 Rembrandt, Tintoretto, Andrea del Sarto ; Raphael 
 with Vandyke, as gentle and amiable. The Ca- 
 raccis have nothing peculiar in their countenances, 
 and surely would not be taken for men of genius ; 
 indeed, in glancing over the whole collection, few 
 heads seem to bear that character, and, least of all, 
 the celebrated Jacob More, who might be classed 
 with the Princess of Saxony, fa paintress,) with 
 all due deference to Dr Spurzheim's doctrines, as 
 a silly looking person. 
 
 There is nothing very remarkable in the Salle 
 de Frate, except Cigoli's Stoning of St Stephen, 
 which is by much the best picture, and really a 
 noble work in composition, colouring, and effect. 
 There is also a picture by A. Caracci, and one by 
 M. Angelo Caracaggio ; a large design, too, of the 
 Virgin Mary in Heaven, by Fra. Bartolommeo, in 
 which it appears that this great artist began his 
 picture on the most careful outline, shaded with a 
 brown or bistre colour. 
 
 On examining the various grounds on which 
 these celebrated men have painted, I am enabled 
 to give the following list. 
 
 Raphael and Fra. Bartolommeo often used a 
 tanned leather colour ; Sebastian del Piombo, ge- 
 nerally a dark leaden colour or black; Guido 
 
 vol. I. IT 
 
114 
 
 COPYISTS^ 
 
 and the Teniers, occasionally white; Titian, Claude, 
 and the Poussins, a lakey brown ; Peter de Lair 
 and Salvator Rosa, sometimes black ; Angelica 
 Fiesole, a gold ground. 
 
 The hue or tone of the grounds have generally 
 had an influence on the colouring of the pictures. 
 Those that have been painted on a black ground 
 have been sombre and dark ; white grounds, have 
 produced silvery, clear, and light pictures ; such as 
 have used mahogany coloured grounds, and allow- 
 ed them to appear through their painting, have 
 produced the most pleasing shades of grey, (I speak 
 of landscape,) and these have often given a leading 
 tone and guide in finishing. Yellow grounds have 
 produced warm and tawny pictures, red grounds, 
 pearly and clear ones, especially if the colouring 
 be thin. 
 
 The gallery is filled with copyists, male and fe- 
 male, young and old, who are permitted to have 
 any picture taken down. From what I have seen 
 of this system of copying, I can have no hesitation 
 in saying that it is a bad one. Those stupid peo- 
 ple cannot be called artists ; they are incapable of 
 producing any thing of their own, and go to the 
 gallery not for improvement, but to make a piti- 
 ful livelihood by their wretched imitations ; their 
 easils, tables, and desks, with their paltry minia- 
 tures and drawings after Raphael, Carlo Dolci, 
 Guido, &c. are constantly in the gallery where they 
 
 FAMILY OF NIOBE. 
 
 115 
 
 carry on their trade. To me it appeared disgrace- 
 ful, not only that the arts should thus be prosti- 
 tuted, but that such beautiful pictures should be de- 
 graded to such a puipose. Besides, the rage for 
 copies may eventually lead the eye from nature, and 
 all her charms, and prevent the real genius of the 
 country from rising into notice, while money is 
 thus squandered on objects so undeserving. 
 
 Such a gallery as this of Florence is Calculated 
 to be of the first advantage to the arts, when studio 
 ed properly for improvement ; but, as I have said. 
 It may have the reverse effect, if prostituted to an 
 ignoble purpose. 
 
 Beside the apartments of the various schools 
 of art which I have mentioned, there is a room 
 filled with the statues of Niobe and her family ; a 
 room with the famous Hermaphrodite, and many 
 other exquisite statues, busts, and other marbles ; 
 rooms, too, of ancient and modern bronzes, and 
 precious gems and coins, and ancient inscrip- 
 tions. 
 
 The statues of the Family of Niobe are well 
 arranged, and have a grand and most imposing 
 effect in number. Including the II Pedagogo, and 
 a figure like Narcissus, they amount to fifteen, 
 and are supposed to be the work of Scopas or 
 Praxiteles. The general appearance of some of 
 the statues is theatrical, and not without con- 
 siderable faults ; yet the beau ideal in them all will 
 
116 
 
 FAMILY OF NIOBE. 
 
 FAMILY OF NIOBE. 
 
 117 
 
 amply compensate their defects, and excite univer- 
 sal admiration. 
 
 Niobe, perhaps, appears too large or bulky ; and 
 in height, she cannot be less than eight and a half 
 or nine heads ; her right leg looks a little out of 
 proportion, and the turning in of some folds above 
 the inside of the right knee, which interrupts the 
 flow of the drapery, is unpleasing to the eye : the 
 child which she protects, is without a fault in form 
 and character. The first daughter on the left of 
 Niobe has quite the general air and appearance of 
 the mother, and is in every respect a most beautiful 
 and interesting figure : but while the shafts of 
 Apollo and Diana are supposed to be dealing death 
 and destruction around, a stronger expression of 
 terror might have been expected : it is, however, a 
 sweet and engaging countenance, exciting indigna- 
 tion against the gods, who, more vindictive than hu- 
 man beings, could destroy a form so beautiful for 
 the harmless and natural vanity of a mother. The 
 statue of her brother, which stands next in succes- 
 sion, is much inferior, and does not call forth the 
 same tender sympathy : his right thigh is much too 
 short, and the drapery which hangs over the leg, 
 does not exhibit a good form beneath. Indeed, 
 both thigh, and leg, and drapery, are defective, 
 and the statue altogether has no pretensions above 
 the middling rank of art. The second or follow- 
 ing son is in an unnatural and theatrical attitude : 
 
 the point of the toe of the left foot, and the tip of 
 the finger of the right hand, are in a straight line 
 with the left hand ; he grasps his drapery, which is 
 twisted round his arm, and tightened on his shoul- 
 der ; the right knee seems fi^cedy not placed, upon 
 a piece of rock or stem of a tree ; the head looks 
 upwards, but with little or no expression. His 
 sister on the opposite side, and next the mother, 
 stands in a petitioning attitude, with her left foot 
 raised upon a stone : the sway of the person is na- 
 tural, easy, and graceful, and the drapery remark- 
 ably well cast. Upon the whole, this statue is finely 
 conceived, though * hardly referable in character to 
 any disastrous circumstance. The third daugh- 
 ter, who is the second from Niobe on the left side, 
 is in a crouching attitude, looking upwards, with 
 her right arm extended, but a little bent, her left 
 arm appears above her knee, but does not touch it; 
 she rests chiefly on her left foot, her kne^ being 
 considerably bent ; the right leg appearing through 
 the drapery is somewhat stiff, and indifferently 
 formed : from some points of view, however, no 
 defect arrests the eye, and it may be pronounced 
 to be an admirable statue. 
 
 Two of the sons (the third and fourth) are in 
 the same attitude : in my description, therefore, I 
 shall chuse the fourth. He kneels on his left knee, 
 his body being somewhat turned back ; his right 
 arm rests upon his right knee, the left on drapery, 
 
 1 
 
118 
 
 FAMILY OF NIOBE. 
 
 which is placed upon a stone ; the right limb project- 
 ed appears in a straight line, and the foot is disagree- 
 ably turned up, so that the sole is perceptible. 
 The left knee appears as if it were sunk consider- 
 ably into the stone on which it rests, and in other 
 respects is far from being pleasing or correct. The 
 whole figure indeed seems constrained, and excites 
 in the spectator a feeling of uneasiness, when he at- 
 tempts to conceive himself in such a posture ; yet 
 there is certainly much to admire in both the sta- 
 tues. In the fifth son (in order round the room) 
 there is a similar stiffness, but the head, and the 
 anatomy of the breast, are incomparably fine ; in- 
 deed, the whole figure has a superior air, and an 
 elevated expression of ideal beauty. 
 
 The statue of the fourth daughter is extremely 
 pleasing, but without any pretensions to refined or 
 classical character ; the right thigh is very short. The 
 right arm of the sixth son is raised somewhat above 
 his head, beyond which it projects about six inches. 
 The hand is muffled up in drapery, which comes 
 sweeping down in a circular form opposite to the left 
 knee ; a button fastens the drapeiy near the left 
 groin, from which it depends in beautiful folds in 
 a straight line down to the foot. From the incli- 
 nation of the body and the projection of the right 
 arm, the figure with its drapery resembles the 
 shape of a half moon. The right leg may be a 
 little too stiff, and the right arm too short; but ih^ 
 
 FAMILY OF NIOBE. 
 
 119 
 
 statue altogether has more original character and 
 more of that kind of beau ideal which should belong 
 to the son of Niobe, than any other of the male 
 figures. The head and breast are inimitably and 
 carefully studied. 
 
 Next to this beautiful statue stands the one 
 called II Pedagogo, but what pretension he has to 
 be placed among the Niobes, with his half boots 
 laced in front, I am at a loss to know. He has 
 nothing of their character, and appears of an or- 
 der so much less noble, that they completely dis- 
 own him. 
 
 The fifth daughter is perhaps the most grace- 
 ful of all the sisters. Her drapery comes sweeping 
 round, and winds with the form of the limbs in 
 the most agreeable manner ; she appears about to 
 take a step, and the lightness and elegance of the 
 figure can hardly be surj)assed. I know not what 
 to say of the figure resembling Narcissus, unless 
 that it appears to have no connection whatever with 
 the rest. I could wish the statue in the Corri- 
 dor, which is supposed to be one of the Niobes, 
 were put in its place; it would certainly be more 
 like the set, and fully as good a statue as either 
 tlie third or fourth son. Of all the statues in 
 the Salle de Niobe, the Dead Son appears the 
 best. He is represented lying on his back, his 
 legs just crossing each other, the left hand re- 
 clining on his breast, and his right ami so much 
 
120 
 
 FAMILY OF NIOBE. 
 
 RUBENS' BATTLE OF YPRES. 
 
 121 
 
 raised as from some points of view to hide his face. 
 As a just representation of nature and finishing, 
 this statue has no rival. The learned and celebrat- 
 ed Mr John Bell has often visited this inimitable 
 work, and pronounced it to be a most extraordi- 
 nary display of anatomical accuracy. 
 
 It has been conjectured, I understand, by the 
 ingenious Mr Cockerell, that this collection of mar- 
 bles has been originally intended for the tympanum 
 of a temple. I hope, however, that II Pedagogo is 
 not admitted in Mr CockerelPs arrangement. The 
 representation, too, of the dead figure, with the 
 marks of stabs or cuts upon his right and left 
 breast, appears to have no connection with the fa- 
 mily of Niobe. He is more like an unsuccessful 
 gladiator ; and compared with the gashes in his 
 breast, the wounds made by the shafts of Apollo 
 would have been comparatively small. This statue is 
 likewise very highly finished in every part, even to 
 the finest gloss, which seemed unnecessary if it had 
 been intended to form one of this ill-fated family, 
 as Mr Cockerell supposes that they were repre- 
 sented in the tympanum. None of the other 
 figures are executed with nearly the same care, 
 though, according to this hypothesis, they must 
 have been more distinctly seen. It is true, that the 
 Greeks were accustomed to give as high finishing 
 even to the unseen parts of the statues, as to those 
 which were most exposed to view. In this parti- 
 
 cular instance, however, when the other statues 
 are less carefully finished, there seems to be no 
 conceivable reason for the very high polish of the 
 figure in question. One of the sons, indeed, is not 
 sculptured behind ; yet this is the only figure, which 
 appears to have been a fixture, from the mark of 
 an iron cramp, which is visible in the marble. But 
 supposing them placed within a pediment, they 
 would appear detached and single figures without 
 any grouping, and would look various ways ; one, 
 indeed, with his back towards the spectator. 
 Would this be consistent with Grecian taste? 
 
 Nor can I think that the figures would suit 
 the acute angle of the tympanum. The heads 
 would rise too high ; or, if placed under it, Niobe 
 would appear too small, leaving a vacant space 
 above the figure. The third or crouching daugh- 
 ter, I understand, has been left out of this suppos- 
 ed arrangement. Now, if she is one of the Niobes, 
 to whom she certainly appears as nearly allied as 
 the Pedagogo, or the statue of the Dead Son, why 
 was she denied a place among the other figures ? 
 
 Besides the statues of Niobe and her family, 
 there are in the same room (which is nearly thirty 
 feet in length) several paintings by Rubens, Van- 
 dyke, Subtermane, &c. The Battle of Ypres, (a 
 very large picture,) behind the figure of Niobe, is a 
 performance of wonderful spirit, and fully conveys 
 to the mind the awful confusion of such a scene. 
 
 » 
 
122 
 
 TRIUMPHAL ENTRY OF HENRY IV. 
 
 The very horses, (admirably painted,) with their 
 struggling exertions and eyes of fire, seem to revel 
 in the horrible affray. The power of Rubens' 
 pencil is irresistible ; his fearless mind, like the 
 hero of the battle, surmounts difficulties from 
 which any other painter would have shrunk in dis- 
 may. He aims not merely at groupes of horses 
 and warriors skilfully combined, as may be seen in 
 the battles of Borgonone, Salvator Rosa, and 
 others; but at one mighty field of human exertions, 
 where all are determined to conquer or to fall ! 
 He even rouses the passions of the spectator, forces 
 him to dash into the hurricane of battle, and 
 for a time scarcely allows him to reflect, that he 
 is contemplating a work of art. This extraordi- 
 nary picture is painted in a very free manner, 
 abounding in peintementos or corrections, and 
 exhibiting such a display of varied feeling, as no 
 other picture ever perhaps expressed. 
 
 Henry the Fourth's triumphal entrance 
 INTO Paris, after the battle of Ypres, a companion 
 to this picture, likewise abounds in all the excel- 
 lence of the master : the colouring, spirit, and cha- 
 racter, all obey the inspiration of his mind ; even 
 the skies seem to rejoice in Henry's glory. 
 
 He who would sit down to point out the faults 
 in these extraordinary pictures, would surely mis- 
 spend his time. They are all perceptible, and left 
 so by the master, who well knew that the para- 
 
 ROOM OF the HERxMAPHRODITE. 
 
 123 
 
 mount feeling and sentiment which they exhibit, 
 would leave the liberal and enlightened mind no 
 inclination to observe such trifling defects. I 
 question whether, if such subjects were highly 
 finished and every fault removed, they would strike 
 so much as this powerful and energetic pencilling, 
 with all its train of alterations and dauntless free- 
 dom. 
 
 The portrait of Helen Foreman, by the same 
 master, is almost a speaking picture ;— fresh as the 
 morning! every tone as pure as the light from 
 Heaven! What an example of his power of finishing, 
 xvhenfnishing is necessary! and what a picture for 
 modern portrait-painters to study ! Vandyke's ex- 
 quisite picture hangs near that of Rubens', and is in 
 every respect as fine ; the pencilling is delicate, yet 
 free as air ; and the character and natural expres- 
 sion, like fine poetry, finds an assent in every breast. 
 In the room of the Herimaphrodite is the cele- 
 brated statue of that name. The figure is repre- 
 sented lying in a beautiful flowing or eel-like form, 
 upon a lion's skin. The head, which is turned to- 
 wards the spectator, with the most innocent and 
 captivating expression, is quite divine. Indeed, 
 every part is perfect. It appears, perhaps, to most 
 advantage when viewed from behind; and the 
 whole statue suggests the idea, that the sculptor's 
 model has been a lovely female. 
 Next in perfection to this exquisite piece of sculp- 
 
 
 ^".iiink ■ 
 
124 
 
 MODERN AND ANCIENT BRONZES. 
 
 GEMS AND INSCRIPTIONS. BUSTS. 
 
 125 
 
 ture is the colossal Head of Alexander ; the 
 countenance, apparently exhibiting great mental 
 suffering ; and the head of Jove, expressive of se- 
 rene and quiet majesty. Then follows Antinous 
 in pensive sadness. This head, which is also colos- 
 sal, was discovered at Rome so late as I67I. 
 
 The Infant Hercules Strangling Serpents 
 is much admired; but the belly appears tumid and 
 flaccid, indicative of weakness, an appearance very 
 inconsistent with the nature of the subject. 
 
 Junius Brutus, and two busts of Cicero, at dif- 
 ferent periods of his life, are full of character, as, 
 indeed, are many others, which it would be tedious 
 even to name. 
 
 The room of Modern Bronzes contains innume- 
 rable works of beauty. The Mercury, by John of 
 Bologna, is not inferior to any thing of the an- 
 tique. His foot rests upon a zephyr, and the 
 figure is so light as to be quite aerial. There is a 
 head too of one of the Medici Family, finely ex- 
 ecuted, and also a helmet by Benvenuto Cellini, 
 on which are impressed figures of Charity and Fame, 
 and several cameos in silver, of faultless workman- 
 ship. Ghiberti's Sacrifice is likewise beautiful. 
 There are some frames too of exquisite cameos. 
 
 Among the Ancient Bronzes, the most remark- 
 able are a Horse's Head ; the figure of a young 
 man five feet in height, called the Idol, and not 
 unlike Antinous ; a Minerva, very ancient, but 
 
 imperfect in the beau ideal ; a Philosopher, in 
 a noble simple attitude, holding a scroll in his 
 hand. All these ancient bronze statues have 
 hollow eyes without eye-balls. Among the smaller 
 bronzes,CupiDis represented dressed with breeches, 
 a belt about his loins, and wings upon his feet : there 
 are also innumerable Venuses, for love and beauty 
 were the predominant divinities in ancient days. 
 
 The Room of Gems boasts of exquisite and high- 
 ly finished works in precious stones. Those by 
 Benvenuto Cellini are of the finest workmanship. 
 I shall not attempt to describe these inestimable 
 curiosities, not daring to trust my eyes among so 
 many diamonds, emeralds, rubies, pearls, topazes, 
 lapides lazuli, &c. The apartment was always full 
 of ladies, who perhaps regretted that one part of 
 the Spartan discipline might not be practised by 
 the fair in Florence. 
 
 In the Room of Inscriptions are many Egyp- 
 tian monuments, urns, ornaments, sarcophagi, &c. 
 
 The Bust of Bacchus is a specimen of the dis- 
 agreeable effect of the mixture of marble and ala- 
 baster of different colours. From this mixture pro- 
 bably originated the Pietra dura, or the art of imi- 
 tating various objects by inlaying with different 
 coloured stones, the effect of which is not much 
 more pleasing than that of the motley busts. The 
 only workmanship of the kind which is at all 
 tolerable is Mosaic, and it is astonishing to what 
 
 
 I I 
 
 '■»■-■ illll^^^^'*™^^- *■ ^ -— — i— - -. »| 
 
no 
 
 MARBLES IN THE CORRIDOR. 
 
 MARBLES IN THE CORRIDOR. 
 
 1S7 
 
 perfection it may be brought. I refer chiefly to 
 large pictures in various towns in Italy, and not to 
 the small specimens which are brought to England. 
 In the room of inscriptions will be found the Mask, 
 an early performance by Michael Angelo. It is 
 by no means like the work of a young man, but 
 is full of spirit and character that indicates mastery. 
 The Bust of Brutus in the same room, and by 
 the same hand, is unfinished, yet full of noble and 
 manly expression. 
 
 Among the principal statues in the Corridors, 
 the Roman Matron, supposed to be the Empress 
 Agrippina, will not fail to draw the attention of 
 the man of taste. She is represented sitting in a 
 simple graceful attitude. The drapery in small 
 folds, beautifully yields to the turning of the body ; 
 altogether, there is something extremely lady-like 
 and interesting in this statue ; the hands and feet 
 are delicacy itself! The head, however, is a resto- 
 ration, with an expression of countenance by far 
 too young for the figure. The Roman Matron is 
 quite a model for ease, and it were well if the 
 awkward females of this age had the opportunity 
 of learning from it to sit properly upon their chairs. 
 
 The Corridors abound in Athletae or Wrestlers, 
 but they are all too like academy figures placed in 
 attitudes. They have nothing of the beau ideal, 
 and perhaps require none. In the statues of Pan 
 and Olento, the latter listens to Pan, who is in- 
 
 structing him to play upon his reed; the groupe is 
 pleasmg, but the arms of both, placed above each 
 other, are not in taste. The statues of some of the 
 muses are good, but not remarkable for beauty. 
 That of Calliope is the best. The Venus Couch- 
 ant is exquisite in beauty and form; but it is to be 
 regretted that her head, like the locks of some of 
 our British Venuses, is not her own, the original 
 beinglost. The statueof Mercury is a noble figure, 
 but he should throw ofi'his wings, and be red'Lced 
 to a gladiator; he is much too heavy for the skies. 
 The Bacchus by Michael Angelo is one of the 
 finest statues in the gallery. A youthful figure 
 stands with a fine easy sway of body, having a cup 
 in one hand, and grapes in the other ; a little satyr 
 at his foot holding grapes up to his mouth. The 
 anatomy and character are excellent, and do honour 
 to the noble genius of the master. The mouth is a 
 little open, and it is not difficult to perceive that 
 the god has got quite enough of the juice of the 
 grape, but this is delicately and prettily expressed. 
 On the opposite side is the famous Bacchus called 
 the Bacco del Sansovino. It is also a youthful 
 %ure. He holds up a cup, and looks towards it 
 with a smiling countenance ; perhaps this expres- 
 sion is better than Michael Angelo's ; it shews the 
 enlivening and inspiring quality of wine, while 
 the former seems only to exhibit its intoxicating 
 effect. The copy of the Laocoon by Bacchus 
 
 » ; 
 
1^8 
 
 MARBLES IN THE CORRIDOR. 
 
 Bandinelli is said to be little inferior to the origi- 
 nal; the latter I have notseen, but if it is finer than 
 Bandinelli's, it must certainly be divine. Donatelli's 
 Statue of St John should not be among these 
 admirable marbles ; for, however true to nature, a 
 miserable starved-looking creature is extremely 
 disagreeable. In nature, misery excites compas- 
 sion, but I question v^hether we should wish it to 
 be much before our eyes in art. There c an be no 
 doubt, if this statue had the power of loco-motion, 
 and could see the disgust which it excites, it would 
 march off without delay. 
 
 From the number of empresses and other female 
 busts amono: the various marbles, many of them 
 admirable specimens of sculpture, we can form an 
 accurate idea in what manner the ladies in ancient 
 times wore their hair, and it is curious to perceive 
 the endless variety of curls, plaitings, frizzlings, 
 and braidings. But I should suspect, from the 
 profusion of hair and high tupees, which many of 
 them exhibit, that wigs and false hair are of great 
 antiquity. In the vestibule there are many ad- 
 mirable marbles and bronzes, and likewise the 
 busts of the Medici Family, from Lorenzo down- 
 wards, all of them with singular, and by no means 
 pleasing physiognomy. 
 
 The Boar is an admirable piece of art ; a Dog, 
 too, is extremely well executed, but the Horse ap- 
 pears heavy and unnatural. The Hercules in 
 
 MEAbUUINC 01' statues. 
 
 1^9 
 
 bronze, and the grand and warlike figure on the op- 
 posite side, together with some basso relievos, may 
 comprehend the finest of the works in the Vestibule. 
 In walking through the gallery, I have found that 
 the general mode of criticising the statues adopted 
 by the visitors, was to measure them according to 
 the height of the Apollo or the Venus de Medicis, 
 than which method nothing can be more erro- 
 neous. Apollo may be a certain number of heads 
 in height, and so may the Venus ; but surely it 
 does not follow, that a statue of Minerva or of 
 Juno should have the same proportions as a Ve- 
 nus, nor would it be expected that a Bacchus 
 or a Hercules should count heads with Apollo. 
 They are all different in character, and must be 
 so in form and dimensions. In short, the propor- 
 tions of statues must not only be characteristic 
 of what they are intended to represent, but 
 must likewise be made to please the eye, and an- 
 swer the conception of the sculptor : the propor- 
 tions of a Bacchus by Michael Angelo might not 
 suit those of a Bacchus by Bandinelli, althouo-h 
 the figures might be the same in size, and equal in 
 beauty. So much depends on feeling. Is not 
 Nature a great authority, who produces endless 
 variety of proportions and dimensions in the human 
 form, which might be selected by the painter ac- 
 cording to his peculiar taste, and rendered in the 
 higliest degree pleasing ? 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
LETTER XII. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 The Cathedral — Santa Croce. — Tomb of M* Angela, — San- 
 tissima Annunziata, — Votive Offerings, — Organs, — Sopra- 
 nos. — Pulpits — Chapel de Depositi. — M, Angela's Sta- 
 
 tues.—^GhibertVs Gates, — Prison, — Madhouse Santa 
 
 Maria Nuavella, — Society called the Buonuomini di San 
 Martina. — And Society of Misericordia* 
 
 V Ew exhibitions are more fatiguing than a gallery 
 of pictures and statues. The mind, constantly 
 upon the alert, soon becomes exhausted. What, 
 then, must a long account of them be ? My con- 
 science tells me that I have put your patience in 
 this way to a severe trial, and that I must now 
 relieve you with a little variety. Yet as there are 
 few situations in Florence, where we do not meet 
 with either statues or paintings, I cannot refrain 
 from adverting to those which may come in our 
 way, though I promise you it shall be but slightly. 
 You cannot boast of that want of curiosity, which 
 distinguished a certain noble Lord, who lately 
 took a bet, and gained it, that he would not see 
 the Vatican a second time ; or another English- 
 man, who, for the sake of a little notoriety, spent 
 many weeks in Rome, without seeing either St 
 Peter's or the Coliseum. 
 
 The Duomo, or Cathedral of Florence, a mix- 
 
 CATHEDRAL OF FLORENCE. 
 
 131 
 
 ture of Gothic and ancient Roman architecture, is a 
 noble edifice. In its dimensions, it is not much 
 inferior to Saint Paul's, but without its simple 
 dignity ; some projection seems to be wanting at 
 the bottom of the dome, which, springing from its 
 support, even without a cornice, looks bare and 
 meagre. The alternate layers of black and white 
 marble of which the edifice is composed give 
 little repose to the wandering eye. The in- 
 laying and pannelling are finished with the utmost 
 neatness, and the building, in general, embraces a 
 great variety of the richest ornament ; though it 
 must be said, with singular incongruity. The 
 twisted columns, supported on the backs of various 
 animals, and even carried round the Gothic arches, 
 are entirely at variance with taste and propriety. 
 
 On the Tower, which is separate from the Ca- 
 thedral, are sculptured, in basso relievo, represen- 
 tations of the progress of man, from his creation, 
 in the natural order of his wants and inventions, 
 towards refinement j such as spinning, weaving, 
 building, pottery, brewing, smith work, astronomy, 
 religion, the arts, &c. These, though not execut- 
 ed in the purest taste, are sufficiently character 
 istic for their situation. Besides these basso re- 
 lievos, the niches in the higher part of the tower 
 are filled with statues of the Apostles, the whole 
 presenting a fine display of richness and effect. On 
 entering the Cathedral, it appears extremely gloo- 
 
132 
 
 SANTA CROCE. 
 
 my, the various objects being barely visible by the 
 feeble light, which faintly gleams through the 
 painted glass. This effect seems to be suitable to 
 devotion, and calculated to keep in subordination 
 the vain tendencies of the soul. 
 
 The eye soon becomes accustomed to the som- 
 bre shade, and traces out the beauties of Ban- 
 dinelli's admirable basso relievos. On the screen 
 of the high altar, constructed by Michael Angelo, 
 the affecting group of Jesus Christ and the 
 Virgin Mary, sculptured by that great master, 
 seen in " the dim religious light," addresses 
 our humbled tone of mind, and calls forth in- 
 numerable reveries on what we are, and what we 
 may be. At one time, on visiting this magnificent 
 Temple, we witnessed a scene of grandeur, which 
 was extremely impressive. The lightning flashed, 
 the thunder rolled, and the torrents poured upon 
 the streaming glass. The sudden and vivid lights, 
 like the rays of hope, that dart occasionally upon 
 the heart through the gloom of sorrow, glanced 
 upon the dripping creatures that were rushing in 
 at every quarter, as if to implore the protection of 
 Heaven, in this moment of terror. 
 
 Santa Croce contains the ashes of Michael An- 
 gelo, Alfieri, Galileo, Machiaveli, and other illus- 
 trious dead. At all times we respect the memory of 
 such great men, but, on visiting their tombs, we 
 could almost bend the knee. Altieri's monument 
 
 TOMB OF MICHAEL ANGELO. 
 
 cyrt 
 
 IS by Canova, but, with all its beauty, is not success- 
 ful. The female figure leaning over the sarcophagus, 
 with the portrait of Alfieri, is by much too bulky ; 
 the head, however, is extremely fine, and would do 
 honour to ancient sculpture. 
 
 The sarcophagus, on which is placed the bust of 
 Michael Angelo, is raised above the eye ; and at each 
 end, and opposite the middle, is seen a female figure, 
 representing Sculpture, Painting, and Architecture. 
 Below the centre figure is the following inscription : 
 
 MICHAELI ANGELO BONAROTIO 
 
 E VETVSTA SIMONIORVM FAMILIA 
 
 SCVLPTORI PICTORI ET ARCIIITECTO 
 
 FAMA OMNIBVS NOTISSIMO 
 
 LEONARDVS PATRVO AMANTISS. ET DE SE OPTIME MERITO 
 
 IRANSLATIS ROMA EJVS OSSIBVS ATQVE IN HOC TEMPLOMAIOR. 
 
 SVCR.SEPVLCROCONDITIS COHORT ANTE SER.NISS COSMO MED 
 
 MAGNO HETRVRIAE I.VCE P. C. ANN. SAL CI30. LXX. 
 
 VIXIT ANN. LXXXVnr. M. XI. D. XV. 
 
 On each side of the bust are three wreaths of 
 ohve, bay, and oak, together with his arms. The 
 principal part of the monument, including these 
 various objects, fonns a square, above which is a 
 small fresco picture of a Dead Christ and tJie Vir- 
 gni, painted by Michael Angelo, exquisite both in 
 colounng and design. These monuments form 
 the principal attraction in the church of Santa 
 Croce. 
 
 In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie 
 Ashes which make i( holirr, dust which k 
 
 ' il 
 
 .^JM^e^' 
 
 iLt^JfL ■ -*- "-■■^trw 
 
134 SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA. 
 
 Even in itself an immortality, 
 
 Though there were nothing save the past, and this, 
 
 The particle of those sublimities 
 
 Which have relaps'd to chaos.** 
 
 The church of the Santissima Annunziata boasts 
 of its peculiar sanctity, * beauty, and riches. In the 
 small chapel, called the Capella del Socorso, within 
 the church, the riches are prodigious. One splendid 
 golden lamp, and thirty silver ones of great magni- 
 tude, hang round this little place of worship. The 
 altar is composed of silver and precious stones ; 
 and there are besides twenty-five great silver candle- 
 sticks. From the appearance of the whole it may 
 be said to be imbossed in riches, dazzling the eye 
 with splendour. Can the worshippers of the Virgin 
 suppose that she is to be captivated by the glare of 
 worldly magnificence, or that her intercession may 
 be gained by costly offerings ? 
 
 In this beautiful church, which was a favourite 
 of Michael Angelo's, there is an admirable statue 
 of a Dead Christ by Bandinelli; he seems to have 
 just touched the line which distinguishes perfect 
 
 * I remarked in this church, notwithstanding its sanctity, 
 a circumstance which appeared to me to be peculiarly indecent. 
 While service was performing at one end, some people were 
 sweeping it at the other, enveloping in a cloud of dust two or 
 three poor creatures who were praying ; one of them, indeed, 
 while he was counting his beads, was requested to get out of 
 the way of the broom I 
 
 SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA. 
 
 135 
 
 i 
 
 nature from ideal beauty : the expression of the 
 whole is dignified, even to the feet. On the other 
 hand, the Christ in bronze by John of Bologna, in 
 the same church, is too much marked in the detail. 
 Strong anatomical expression does not seem to be 
 suitable to the character of our Saviour, at least it 
 should not be carried so far as to intrude upon the 
 sentiment. The cloisters are filled with frescoes by 
 Pucitti and others ; but there is one by Andrea del 
 Sarto, Madonna del Sacco, in the form of half a 
 circle, which is perfectly beautiful, and remarkable 
 for delicacy of colouring. It is the same from which 
 Morghen has made an exquisite engraving. The 
 corridor, in front of the church, has likewise several 
 admirable fresco paintings by the same master, who 
 surprises us by the simple means which he has 
 employed, never in any instance forsaking unaffected 
 nature : on all his works is impressed a quiet ele- 
 vated character, which is extremely pleasing. 
 
 Besides the innumerable fresco paintings in Flo- 
 rence, by painters whose names are unknown in 
 England, the stucco walls of several of the houses 
 are hatched with figures " al sgraffito," * of re- 
 markable spirit and fine conception. 
 
 The Voti, or offerings presented to the churches 
 
 * By this term is meant the hatching of figures with brown 
 colours, on plastered walls, iii imitation of drawings hatched 
 with a brush. 
 
 it«^ai 
 
136 
 
 VOTIVE OFFERINGS. 
 
 ORGANS. — SOPRANOS. 
 
 137 
 
 by bigotted individuals, are miserable daubings, 
 and generally, I should suppose, painted by the 
 persons who imagined themselves relieved by the 
 interposition of the saint or saints, irom their bodily 
 diseases, accidents, or sufferings. To ascribe such 
 benefits to inferior agents, and not directly to the 
 Divine power, may appear modest, yet it does 
 not suit our notions of the universal superinten- 
 dence of God, and his parental regard for all his 
 creatures, since not a sparrow falls to the ground 
 without an act of his will. 
 
 In the time of Leopold, the cloister before the 
 church La Santissima Annunziata was principally ap- 
 propriated to the reception of these votive offerings, 
 and they must have been considerable in number, 
 and perhaps injurious to the mind, since he found 
 it necessary to issue an order for their removal. 
 They are, however, creeping in again ; all which 
 are now seen are of modern date, from 1795 
 to 1815, and generally represent accidents, such 
 as falling down stairs, out of a boat, kicks from 
 horses, a bone in the throat, carriajres drivinsr 
 over women and children, inflammation in the 
 throat, &c. Some of the best of them have been 
 honoured with a place within the church, which, 
 by* the way, may be a delicate hint for the pious 
 votaries to send better pictures. 
 
 The Monastery of the Church of St Mark's wvns 
 suppressed by the French. In the refectory they 
 
 shew a painting i„ which St Dominicano appears 
 at dinner with a number of monks : when they sat 
 down they had nothing to eat. but on praying 
 fervently, St Dominicano was served by an-'eJ^ 
 who came from heaven with laps full of nexcbalce'd 
 rolls. It IS but a poor picture ; there arc, however 
 tiie remains of better upon the injured walls. 
 
 Santo Spiritoisthe only church in which we heard 
 a sermon preached, quite in the Presbyterian style 
 uithout notes. The congregation, however, consist- 
 ed almost exclusively of women, children, and very 
 old nien. The pictures in Santo Spirito, by Cigoli 
 and Fra. Bartolommeo, are not of the first order 
 but highly deserving of some examination. Ci.roli 
 never painted in vain. 
 
 Many of the churches in Florence have ad 
 muable organs ; that of the church of St Gaetano 
 IS the best, and next to it is that in the Uadia. 
 I he Abbe Cotte performs on the latter, and the 
 former is played by a person of inferior talen^ • 
 thus the power and expression of the finest instru! 
 ment is lost by this unwise arrangement. 
 
 Soprano voices are not numerous. Signor Martini 
 IS at the head of all, and his notes and skill are 
 truly divine. It has been calculated, however 
 that not above one in twelve of these artificial 
 voices are found to succeed ; taste and judgment 
 seldom accompany, them. The government have 
 commanded, that females should henceforth take 
 
 ^1 
 
138 
 
 PULPITS. — CHAPEL DE DEPOSITI. 
 
 the alto parts, after the present set of male sopranos 
 has expired. For this arrangement, it is said, they 
 are indebted to Napoleon. 
 
 The pulpits in many of the Italian churches are 
 elegant, in particular those of the church of San 
 Lorenzo. They are simple oblong squares of 
 bronze without canopies, and enriched with scrip- 
 tural subjects in basso relievo, supported on marble 
 columns, and large enough to admit two clergymen. 
 The Chapel de Depositi, the work of Michael 
 Angelo, surprised me greatly: indeed, I could 
 hardly imagine that a mind which comprehended 
 every thing that was great, should have produced 
 a work so utterly unworthy of him. Broken and 
 divided into trifling parts, it appears more like the 
 performance of an unskilful architect. I speak of 
 the interior. The fine heroic statue, by Michael 
 An<Telo, of Lorenzo DE Medici, (inawarlike dress,) 
 is placed within these walls. In attitude, Lorenzo 
 sits resting on his left arm, his fingers touching 
 his chin. The right arm being partly turned 
 round, the back of the hand is placed upon the 
 knee. His helmet projects considerably, and casts 
 a shadow over the face, which greatly heightens the 
 sublimity of the figure. He appears to be medi- 
 tating, and a more interesting figure can hardly 
 be imagined :— the mysterious expression and cha- 
 racter, impressing the spectator with awe, are quite 
 
 statues by m. angelo. 
 
 139 
 
 original, and place Michael Angelo far above the 
 sculptors of his time. 
 
 Upon a sarcophagus, containing the ashes of 
 Lorenzo de Medici, and immediately below his 
 statue, are two reclining figures, (male and female,) 
 said to represent Morning and Twilight. The 
 head of the male is left unfinished, yet is full of ex- 
 pression ; indeed, both figures are excellent, exhibit- 
 mg such noble uninterrupted contours, as none but 
 such a genius as that of Michael Angelo could 
 have conceived. Upon a sarcophagus immediate- 
 ly opposite, under the statue of Giovano di Medici, 
 are two other reclining figures, representing Day 
 AND Night; the female statue abounds in grace, and 
 the drapery takes the most pleasing folds ; with the 
 exception of the lock of hair that falls upon the 
 neck, the statue is completely finished, even to the 
 highest gloss or polish, perhaps too much so, for 
 the character of flesh, which even marble, as in 
 some of the finest antique statues, should appear 
 to represent. The head of the male figure looks 
 over the right shoulder, but it appeared somewhat 
 small, and perhaps placed rather too much to the 
 left. Michael Angelo, after ascertaining general 
 forms, seems to have finished as he advanced, and 
 has occasionally preferred proceeding with the sub- 
 ordinate parts first. The back and shoulders of 
 the last mentioned figure are remarkably fine, 
 though rather broad for the proportion of the 
 
140 
 
 STATUES BY M, ANCELO. 
 
 figure ; the head is left in the same state as that 
 of the corresponding statue on the opposite side. 
 
 Were I to offer a criticism on these four statues 
 of Morning, Noon, Twilight, and Night, I would 
 venture to say, that they are not expressive of 
 what they are intended to represent. I may like- 
 wise add, that, if we are to suppose the sarcophagi 
 to contain the full size of the human form, the 
 statues are out of all proportion too large, giving 
 us the idea that the person entombed must be of a 
 diminutive size ; but, if they contain the ashes 
 only, the objection does not hold. I could 
 wish, however, they had less the character of 
 supporters to the figures. There is likewise in 
 the Chapel de Depositi a statue of the Virgin 
 AND Child : the Virgin is left in a very rude state, 
 but the Child is exquisitely done. Whether it 
 proceeded from an inconstant disposition, or from 
 any accidental circumstance, it is equally to be 
 regretted, that this great man has left so many 
 of his works unfinished. 
 
 Some of the statues in the cathedral and other 
 churches are made of leather ! From their appear- 
 ance, I should not have discovered this, had not 
 one of them been considerably injured. The ma- 
 terial for effect seems to answer very well ; and it 
 would not be easy to discover, that these saints^ 
 like some of their predecessors in our Saviour's 
 time, were wolves in sheep's clothing. 
 
 GIIlBEllTl's GATES.— riilSON. 
 
 lU 
 
 i.. 
 
 (4 
 
 Ghibcrti's Brazen Gates at the bajitistry of St 
 John well deserve the praise so universally bestow- 
 ed on them, and it is not surprising that Michael 
 Angelo should have said, that they were worthy of 
 being the gates of paradise. The adjustment of 
 every part is most agreeable to the eye, the breadth 
 of them bearing a greater proiwrtion to the height 
 than is generally adopted in doors. Each folding 
 door contains five scriptural subjects executed in 
 all the gradations of relief. In grouping, drawing, 
 grace, and beauty, the figures are truly admir- 
 able ; the perspective, too, is well sustained, the 
 distant objects being done in flat, the nearer objects 
 m mezzo, and those close upon the eye in alto 
 relievo. The flat relief, even to the trees and 
 builduigs, is executed to admiration ; the archi- 
 trave and frame are quite in harmony with the 
 general richness of the whole. 
 
 Among the principal features of Florence, the 
 prison, which was the ancient Palazzo del Potesta, 
 is a conspicuous object. The architecture is by 
 Lappo, and highly characteristic of his style. On 
 entering the court, one is struck with a certain 
 air of chivalry and gloom united ; the walls are 
 covered with various coats of arms, and the pro- 
 jecting roof throws a melancholy shade over all, 
 and awakening some suspicion of personal safety! 
 leads the mind back to those times of turbulence,' 
 when not a citizen could be trusted. We were 
 
142 
 
 WAD-HOUSE. 
 
 led to a great room in the centre of the building, 
 and were not long in that situation before we saw 
 a squalid crowd of wretched beings through the 
 grates, which looked into their miserable dens, de- 
 spair glaring wildly in their unsettled eyes ! The 
 nakedness of these unfortunate creatures, and the 
 filth and vermin of their loathsome abode, had bet- 
 ter not be told. Five of them were lying dead 
 in a small room ; but, whether from the jail dis- 
 ease, or other causes, I could not learn. Huma- 
 nity and charity, I fear, were far away ; and I am 
 tempted to ask if the statue of Justice, which the 
 Florentines have placed upon a lofty column, be in- 
 tended as emblematical, since it seems to imply 
 that justice is out of reach. 
 
 The mad-house, which was formerly a monas- 
 tery, contains at present about two hundred pa- 
 tients. Love and religion seem to have turned 
 the heads of the greatest number ; one imagines 
 himself to be Cupid; another, God; and another, 
 the Devil. The girls who are deranged from love, 
 are generally from fourteen to fifteen years of age : 
 one priest is confined for writing against the 
 Grand Duke. The establishment has only one 
 physician and a medical assistant, even when the 
 number is considerably greater. Those in a state 
 of great delirium are tied down naked in their 
 beds with cotton bandages, which do not hurt 
 them. Each individual may have a cell, and the 
 
 SOCIETIES OF BUONUOMINI.— MISERICORDIA. US 
 
 name of the deranged person is placed above the 
 door : there is one melanclioly instance, however, 
 of a father and two sons being confined in the 
 same apartment. 
 
 In Santa Maria Nuovella, the monks of the mo« 
 nastery make the best medicines in Florence ; the 
 establishment is very considerable, and the public 
 is plentifully served at an easy rate. I must con- 
 fess I had peculiar satisfaction in seeing the floors of 
 several of the cells strewed with herbs for distillation, 
 mstead of being inhabited by stupid indolence. 
 
 The society of the BuoNuoMiNi di San Maiitixo, 
 composed of twenty gentlemen, and which, in fori 
 mer days, was ever ready to relieve suffering deli- 
 cacy in distress, has, in a great degree, permitted 
 Its philanthropy to become a shadow, which none 
 but the veriest apparations of misery can grasp. 
 
 The society of the Misericordia, however 
 which numbers 400 respectable inhabitants, includ- 
 mg some of the principal nobility, are st.ll in ac- 
 tive service, attending the sick, and burying the 
 dead, and permitting no circumstance to infringe 
 upon their duty, however painful and revoltingit 
 may be. Even plagues have been no check'^to 
 their benevolence. When we reflect that Leopold 
 hnnself, who was a member of this institution, has 
 carried wretchedness and death upon his shoulders. 
 It IS impossible to refuse respect and admiration to 
 an establishment of such distinguished and conde- 
 scending humanity. 
 
 VOL. I. f 
 
 4 ♦'! 
 
 
ACADEMY DELLE BELLE ARTE. 
 
 U5 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Academy delle Belle Arte. — Its Pictures, Casts, Dravoings, 
 Sfc, — Character of the Prize Pictures. — A more exte?isive 
 Study of Nature recommended. — Rules of the Academy in 
 regard to admission of Students^ Prizes, Sfc> — Porcelain 
 Manufoctory, — Artists. — Bartolini, Benvenuti, S)'c. — 
 Morghen the Engraver. — Canovas Venus, compared with 
 the Venus of Cleomencs, 
 
 Leopold, following the enlightened views of the 
 Medici family, turned his mind considerably to- 
 wards the arts. Perceiving the consequence and 
 respect which they acquired for Italy, and, indeed, 
 every country where they have flourished, he patro- 
 nized painting, drawing, modelling, architecture, 
 engraving, and even Pietra Dura, or working in 
 precious stones. The present government also, 
 though, perhaps, too much inclined to encourage 
 the Pietra Dura, has a considerable leaning towards 
 the arts, which may be said to meet at present with 
 very fair support in Florence. 
 
 The Academy delle Belle Arte is an honour 
 to the country. It hs.* not only produced artists 
 of considerable merit in historical and scriptural 
 composition, but likewise inspired a taste in various 
 manufactures, and bids fair to be of farther and 
 more extensive advantage to the country. 
 
 10 
 
 / \ 
 
 This institution has likewise a collection of early 
 pictures, chiefly composed of those which belonged 
 to the suppressed monasteries of Camaldoli, Vallom- 
 brosa, &c. Like the series at Bologna, and the 
 Royal Gallery, it begins with Greek pictures; 
 and here, too, the progress of improvement is but 
 slow. Indeed, from the commencement to Phi- 
 h'ppo Lippi, there is no remarkable advance ; with 
 him drawing, especially of the feet and hands, and, 
 I may; add, composition and design, become very 
 perceptible. Truth is successfully followed, and 
 understood by Verochio Ghirlandajo, Lorenzo di 
 Credi, and Perugino ; and came at length to per- 
 fection in the hands of Raphael. The series, how- 
 ever, is still imperfect ; and, indeed, unless better 
 picturesof the various masters are exhibited together, 
 it will be difficult to perceive the nice and delicate 
 steps which the arts had made towards improve- 
 ment. The collection of original Cartoons by Cor- 
 reggio, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Fra. Bartolom- 
 meo, Andrea del Sarto, and others, is extensive 
 and superb ; besides these, the academy has many 
 admirable drawings and designs, by almost every 
 ancient painter, as well as by the masters of the 
 Academy. The casts from the antique are nume- 
 rous and rare ; and in addition to these are several 
 Terra Cotta studies by Michael Angelo, especially 
 his botze or first ideas of the figures representing 
 Morning, Noon, Twilight, and Night. These are 
 
 VOL. I. K + 
 
146 
 
 PRIZE PICTURES. 
 
 extremely curious and interesting, and shew how 
 faithfully he has kept to them in his sculptured 
 figures in the Chapel de Depositi. 
 
 Besides these various means of improvement, the 
 institution has a life academy, and a gallery con- 
 taining the prize pictures, models, &c. of the mo- 
 dern artists and students of the Academy. Many 
 of these are well designed, and display a consider- 
 able knowledge in drawing. The models, in par- 
 ticular, have many claims to praise. * 'J'he archi- 
 tecture and landscapes, however, seemed to rank 
 but low. Many of the drawings in chalk are ex- 
 ecuted with the utmost neatness and finish, thoudi 
 as large as the statues from which they are copied. 
 It may be doubted, however, whether the labour 
 bestowed on these drawings might not be more 
 profitably employed ; and whether drawings of a 
 smaller size might not be sufficient to give a cor- 
 rect idea of the originals, while, by enabling the 
 student to obtain a greater variety, they would ex- 
 tend his knowledge of character and sentiment. 
 On looking over the various modern works in 
 
 ♦ A basso relicFo of the departure of iEneas by Salvador 
 Bongiovanni, a Sicilian artist, might do honour to any age. 
 For taste and purity of form, it has rarely been surpassed or 
 equalled in modern times. The study of the ancient marbles 
 does not appear to interfere with improvement in sculpture 
 so much as in painting ; at least, the overdoing of this study 
 is not apparent. 
 
 4 
 
 MORE EXTENSIVE STUDY OF NATURE. 147 
 
 the Academy, I found the same want of nature in aU 
 whicli I obsen'ed in the pictures in the academy of 
 Parma or Bologna. They have too much of ^pretty 
 showy miitation of the antique, and there is in all 
 a tiresome uniformity. This must arise from some 
 defect in the mode of study. Indeed, I am stUI of 
 opmion, that if an apartment for drawing and 
 pamtmg from nature, in a more general way than 
 the mere naked figure, were introduced in addition 
 to this, and the study of the antique, it might be 
 of the first advantage. Why should colouring, 
 drapery, grouping, and the various effects of light 
 and shade, and reflected light from colour, &c. be 
 omitted ? These are all necessary, as well as the 
 simple nude, and it is in these that the great de- 
 fect of the modern Italian school seems to lie. 
 There would be no danger of injuring, by this me- 
 thod, the taste of the student of genius. On the 
 contrary, by an eariy discrimination of the beauties 
 and defects of living objects in all their varieties 
 and defects, (which might be pointed out to him,) 
 combined with the study of the antique, he would 
 be more m the road of the great painters of old, and 
 have a fairer chance to obtain an immortal name. 
 As far as a knowledge of art in sculpture or paint- 
 ing assists the study of nature, it is desirable ; but 
 1', by an unskilful direction, it produces nothing 
 but a herd of imitators, it were better to begin the 
 course again, and start from simple nature, advanc 
 
U8 
 
 RULES OF THE ACADEMY. 
 
 ing from one step of improvement to another ; un- 
 less some means be taken to discover where the 
 fault exists, and to correct it accordingly. 
 
 I could almost wish that the academy would es- 
 tablish an occasional change of pictures, instead of 
 having the same collection constantly on exhibition. 
 Pictures for instruction should not be allowed to 
 pall upon the eye, or to produce in the students 
 too strong a prepossession in their favour. 
 
 No young person is allowed to study in the 
 academy without a good moral character. He 
 must first present his petition to the president, who 
 is always an artist of eminence, from whom it is 
 handed to the committee, who determine the premi- 
 ums, and if they approve, the applicant is held elected. 
 Formerly the youth were provided with materials for 
 study gratis, but the French introduced a change 
 of system, and made a charge for them, which, I 
 understand, is still continued, except to the poor- 
 est class. Improper behaviour forfeits the benefits 
 of the institution ; the time of attendance is indefi- 
 nite. There is a gallery in which the works of the 
 students are exhibited for sale, except the premium 
 pictures, which must always remain in the academy. 
 
 When the youth contend for the pnzes, they are 
 first asked by the master if they propose to paint 
 for the premium or principal prize. To this 
 prize any native of Tuscany may aspire, but 
 not unless he has been previously taught in 
 
 
 PORCELAIN MANUFACTORY. 
 
 H9 
 
 the Academy. The pictures are painted at home, 
 that the judges may not know by whom they 
 are done. 
 
 When the paintings or drawings for the prizes 
 are finished, they are very properly (to prevent 
 partiality) hung up on exhibition for three days, 
 m order that the public may judge of their merit. 
 ihe president, too, generally exhibits some of 
 his works along with them, which serves, in some 
 degree, to discover their defects. The highest 
 pnze at present does not exceed eight or ten gui- 
 neas. The best of the unsuccessful pupils, that 
 they may not be altogether disappointed, are en- 
 couraged by a medal. 
 
 There are two exhibitions in a year, instead of 
 one as formerly. This was suggested by the 
 French, who thought it better to divide the prizes, 
 which were at one time of double the present value, 
 ^our young men are annually sent to Rome, where 
 they generally remain for several years for the 
 benefit of further study and encouragement ; those 
 of course, are chosen from the most promising and 
 able students. The expence is entirely defrayed 
 by government. 
 
 On visiting the Porcellane, which is a celebrated 
 manufacture of porcelain, belonging to the Marquis 
 Wi, I wasimmediately struck with the advantage 
 ot the Academy and the study of drawing, paint- 
 ing, and modelling, as referable to manufacture. 
 
150 BARTOLINI, SANTORILLI, BENVENUTI. 
 
 It was, indeed, extremely gratifying to find the 
 arts so useful in supplying so many ingenious peo- 
 ple of all ages with the means of living respectably, 
 and of exciting a general taste, by the beautiful 
 forms which they |)roduced. The Marquis Ginori 
 well deserves the approbation of his country, and 
 it is pleasing to perceive how completely he 
 has conquered feeling, in allowing his name to 
 be annexed to the most insignificant production 
 of his manufactory. The manufacture and sculp- 
 ture in alabaster is likewise caiTied to a great ex- 
 tent, and many ornaments, vases, and figures, 
 &c. are executed with spirit and truth. Bartolini, 
 as a sculptor, is the Canova of Horence, and has 
 produced some busts, particularly of British cha- 
 racters, that do him infinite honour. Santorilli, as 
 a modeller and engraver of seals, is an artist of con- 
 siderable merit ; his best performances, however, 
 are such as he produces from the antique, or cele- 
 brated modem works. 
 
 Benvenuti, the president of the academy, is at the 
 head of history -painting, and may rank with our ve* 
 nerable West, though not so great an artist in origi- 
 nal conception of his subjects, or in expressive execu- 
 tion. Fabre and other artists have considerable talent, 
 but principally in the scriptural department. Por- 
 trait-painting is not so much a profession by itself 
 as it is in Britain, nor does it seem to be so much 
 encouraged. Benvenuti is the principal artist in 
 
 MORGHEN. 
 
 151 
 
 that interesting branch, but his pictures are not 
 equal even to our second rate portraits in England. 
 Miniature-painting is equally low ; there is nothing 
 to compare with our celebrated Thomson of Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 Morghen may be said to be the first engraver 
 in the worid ; his print of the Last Supper gives 
 him an immortal name. In the prosecution of 
 that celebrated work, he had to encounter consi^ 
 derable difficulty from the ruinous state of the 
 painting by Da Vinci ; he did as much as could 
 be done, however, from its poor remains, and had' 
 recourse to a good copy to assist him in the de^, 
 fectiye parts. This celebrated artist, in addition 
 to his many excellent works, has it in contempla- 
 tion to engrave the Notte (or Night piece) of Cor. 
 regg»o>— a subject, in every respect, worthy of his 
 genius. He is likewise desirous to make an en- 
 graving from our magnificent picture of Charies I. 
 on horseback, by Vandyke. These, it must be 
 confessed, are great undertakings for a man up- 
 wards of 65 years of age. His last work, I regret 
 to say, is from a picture by Batoni, a master of 
 little merit ; and at present, his admirable talent 
 IS deplorably misemployed on a miserable copy 
 after Leonardo da Vinci. Why he should make 
 such a choice, especially with so many splendid 
 pictures at his command, it is impossible to 
 conjecture. He is apprehensive that his ardour 
 
 fa^faj^fajXta^d&I^BUMiBt^a 
 
152 
 
 VENUS OF CANOVA. 
 
 ■ 2£ 
 
 may be considerably damped in regard to the Notte 
 and Charles I., from the difficulty of procuring 
 good drawings of them. This celebrated man is 
 liberal and communicative, and makes no secret of 
 his art. When engraving, he sits close upon a 
 window with his back to the light, with an inclined 
 screen of tissue paper to reflect upon his work. 
 He is a great admirer of the English school of 
 engraving, especially of WooIIett's works, many of 
 which, with some of the best of the French school, 
 cover the walls of his room. His establishment 
 for printing, and the sale of his works, is very con- 
 siderable ; the British are his greatest purchasers; 
 but it is to be regretted that he is so totally care- 
 less of his fame, as to offer the merest shadows of 
 his plates for sale. The plates, both of the Last 
 Supper and of the Transfiguration, should have 
 been cut to pieces, long before they were brought 
 to their present degraded state. 
 
 The Venus of Canova, in the Palazzo Pitti, 
 combines most interesting modesty with grace 
 and beauty. That great artist has, indeed, done 
 honour to the fair sex in his delicate concep- 
 tion of their character. The Venus of Cleomenes, 
 (De Medicis,) no doubt, has suggested much to 
 Canova in this skilful production of his chisel, 
 into which he has succeeded in infusing the gene- 
 ral purity of his archetype. To heighten, if possi- 
 ble, the sentiment of modesty, Canova has brought 
 
 VENUS OF canova. 
 
 153 
 
 to his aid the addition of drapery. Still that vir- 
 tue is not more delicately expressed, than in the 
 simple and unaffected attitude of the Venus de 
 Medicis ; the departing from which, even in the 
 slightest degree, would seem to injure her perfec- 
 tion. Although the Venus of Canova displays his 
 consummate skill and knowledge of the female 
 form, it must yield to its only companion, the 
 Mistress of the World! * 
 
 ♦ The statue of Venus de Medicis has been sadly mutilat- 
 cd. The head and arms have been broken off. It has like- 
 wise been greatly injured under the right breast and on the 
 belly. The right thigh, and the foot and ancle, have been 
 broken The fingers and point of the great toe are entirely 
 new. The restorations are admirably done, and produce no 
 disagreeable effect on the statue. 
 
 I . 
 
if 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Description of the Pictures in the Palazzo Pitti, and likewise 
 
 the Palaces Corsini, Gerini, Alozzi, Ricardi Palace of 
 
 Marquis Amelia Puci, and I'andulphini, 
 
 1 HE Palazzo Pitti contains the most select collec- 
 tion of pictures in Florence ; those taken by the 
 French, sixty-three in number, being all restored. 
 There are likewise some good statues, and the roofs 
 of the various apartments are painted in fresco, by 
 ancient artists of great celebrity ; the toute en- 
 semble presenting a splendid and princely specta- 
 cle. But how to convey to you any idea of the 
 merits of the numerous pictures, I must own I am 
 greatly puzzled. To name them all would be an 
 endless task, and to select a few seems injustice to 
 the rest. This method, nevertheless, 1 shall be ob- 
 liged to adopt ; and perhaps it may be my best 
 plan to give you my notes as I made them on the 
 spot, beginning with the first, and advancing through 
 the suite of rooms, and leave you to follow me or 
 not, as you please. 
 
 First Room. 
 Salvatou Rosa. 
 
 It is refreshing to see a pleasing landscape, after 
 
 PICTURES IN PALAZZO PITTI. 155 
 
 the monotonous and fatiguing collection of scrip, 
 tural subjects. We are here presented with a paint- 
 mg by Salvator Rosa, which is one of the finest 
 pictures that I have seen by his hand. The com- 
 position consists of Buildings and Shipping 
 much in the style of Claude. It wants, however' 
 that natural character, which always gives a charm' 
 to the works of that inimitable master. Salvator is 
 never without manner, but, in this picture, it is less 
 offensive, and the colouring, which is li^rht, accom- 
 panied with harmonious tones of grey, is natural 
 and pleasing. Its companion by the same master, 
 at the opposite end, can only be called a splendid 
 wreck, 
 
 Rubens. 
 
 A Landscape in a grand style: the great leading 
 Ime of the picture runs from the left corner at the 
 bottom, nearly to the right corner at the top, and 
 IS pleasingly relieved by a flat horizon. Accident- 
 al lights appear to travel up the face of a lofly 
 mountain, touching various divisions, wood and 
 buildings; the fore-ground in shallow, gives ample 
 relief to all. The general tone of colouring is 
 grey, and natural, without any positive darkness, 
 the richness of colour on the figures near the eye 
 being sufficient for the puqKJse of removing the ' 
 vanous objects to their proper distance. The 
 whole IS admirably diversified with various inci 
 
 
1. 
 
 r. 
 
 I 
 
 156 
 
 PICTURES IN THE PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 dent; and the buildings, though not so well drawn 
 as those of Poussin or Claude, are, nevertheless, 
 well conceived and freely pencilled. Its compa- 
 nion is a pastoral subject, fresh, natural, and in the 
 most fascinating harmony, evidently representing a 
 Scene IN Holland, surprising usbythe effect which 
 may be produced, with skilful management, out of 
 a few fields and scraggy trees. The figures carry- 
 ing turnips in the fore-grounds are not only ad- 
 mirably painted, but introduced for a special pur- 
 pose, as will soon be discovered by those who know 
 the value of a brilliant touch of light. The sha- 
 dows of both of these pictures are warmer than 
 the colour laid upon them : of the latter there is 
 an engraving by Bolswert. 
 
 Salvator Rosa. 
 
 His Battle Piece is expressive of turbulence, 
 violence, mystery, and incident; yet a little spotty, 
 from the circumstance of the principal white horse 
 not being well connected with the other illuminat- 
 ed figures. The Battle piece by Rubens, in the 
 Salle de Niobe, is much superior from its leading 
 the mind completely into the field. 
 
 Titian, 
 
 Titian is the prince of portrait-painters ! Never 
 was a more lovely, innocent, feminine expression 
 painted, than his Portrait of a Lady. It is nature 
 
 1 
 
 PICTURES IN THE PALAZZO PlfTI. 
 
 157 
 
 without caprice, captivating every heart that is sus- 
 ceptible of the charm of modesty, 
 
 Rembrandt. 
 Portrait of an Aged Man. I have often seen 
 pictures of masterly execution, but this outstripsthem 
 all! Such apiece of feeling! no softening, or finish- 
 ing ; the truest tones of colour are laid together ; 
 and evidently done at once, with an eye conversant 
 with the purity of the palette. The penciUing is 
 rich, full, and translucent, shewing, as it were, an 
 internal light in the picture, which beams upon 'the 
 admiring spectator. When the painting has been 
 advanced a certain length, Rembrandt seems to 
 have retired a step or two, and with a few broad 
 touches, combined the insulated parts and inhar- 
 monious tones, shewing the most sovereign power 
 over his pencil and materials. 
 
 Second Room. 
 
 Called P. Cartona, from the pictures on the 
 roof, painted by that master. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 Half length portrait of Cardinal Hippolito: 
 matchless in dignity! the terms in painting and the 
 nomenclature of colouring are so imperfect, that it 
 is impossible to give any idea of this superb pro- 
 duction of the pencil. The Cardinal appears of 
 
158 
 
 PICTURES IN PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 the family of the mighty. He is represented iu 
 a militaiy dress of brown; on his head is a turban- 
 looking cap, one hand is laid on the hilt of his 
 sword, the other rests upon his staff; the noble 
 and manly expression of his countenance making 
 a lasting impression on the mind. 
 
 Portrait of Paul the Third, by Titian ; an ex- 
 quisite picture of an Old Man in a crimson dress j 
 he looks serious, and commands respect. 
 
 CiGOLI. 
 
 A Descent from the Cross ; a wonderful pic- 
 ture in composition, splendid colouring, and gran- 
 deur of style. This is by much the finest picture 
 of the master in Florence : it would do honour to 
 the pencil of Raphael or Correggio, and, indeed, 
 surpasses many of their works. It leaves upon the 
 mind a solemn and impressive effect, as if the moral 
 world had received a shock by the awful event which 
 it represents. The Saint Francis by the same 
 master is true to nature. In colouring, Cigoli 
 surrounds his brown and rich colours with blue 
 and greyish tones, which always have a good effect. 
 
 Third Room. 
 
 Raphael, 
 
 Tlie famous picture Madonna della Siggiola, 
 to which persons of all nations bend their knee, 
 
 
 
 pictures in PALAZZO PITTr. 
 
 359 
 
 graces the wall of this apartment. It is a mellow 
 picture, but somewhat dusky and brown. I know 
 not how it happens to have charmed the world so 
 much ; there are better pictures by Raphael, in Flo- 
 rence, even in the Palazzo Pitti. The Infant 
 Christ appears a fine chubby looking child, but 
 the legs are certainly too bulky for his size, and 
 would better suit an infant Hercules. 
 
 Fra. Bartolommeo. 
 
 His picture of Saint Mark is strikingly grand, 
 and at first sight might be taken for a work of ui 
 chael Angelo's. It may appear ridiculous, but I 
 hare often fancied what kind of voice such tremen- 
 dous figures might have ; I never could suppose it 
 to be but rough, gruff, hoarse, and unpleasing. 
 
 The Holy Family by Julio Romano shines a- 
 mong the shining ; and none of the other masters 
 shew more beautiful di'awing, composition, or ex- 
 pression. 
 
 The paintings by Andrea dkl Sarto are always 
 well drawn and coloured, but occasionally, especial- 
 ly when he introduces many figures, their grouping 
 IS imperfect ; and sometimes there is a want of 
 aerial perspective. 
 
 Rubens' Groupe of his Parents and Family. 
 Few pictures excel this excellent family piece. It 
 
 ;; 
 
 
160 
 
 PICTURES TN THE PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 IS luminous and fresh as the day ; every difficulty in 
 combination is happily overcome ; no unpleasing 
 division appears ; and the pencil wanders in all 
 the mazes of intricacy with captivating freedom! 
 What a delightful art portrait-painting seems to 
 be in such creating hands ! By them the evane- 
 scent glances of character are immediately caught, 
 and rendered permanent. 
 
 The celebrated portrait of Cardinal Benti- 
 voGLio, by the pencil of Vandyke, said to be one of 
 the finest by the master, well deserves a place among 
 the first works in that department; the subject is 
 dignified and imposing effect. 
 
 Carlo Dolci. 
 
 St Peter: This picture of the saint is as large as 
 life, and the colouring of the flesh is clear and na- 
 tural, but the drapery, which is painted with pure 
 ultra-marine, appears a little glaring. Colouring, 
 how beautiful soever it may be in itself, is always 
 faulty, unless it be accompanied with character and 
 expression. 
 
 Christofano Aixori. 
 
 Judith with the head of Holofemes, admirably 
 painted; but Judith looks very stupid and haughty, 
 holding the head with the utmost indifference ; the 
 old lady behind her with her head wrapped up in 
 
 10 
 
 pictures FN PALAZZO PITTL 
 
 flannel had better have been represented at 
 ning wheel. 
 
 a 
 
 161 
 
 spin- 
 
 Fourth Room. 
 
 Cleopatra, by Guido, beautiful, clear, and 
 light in colouring, but perhaps rather too white and 
 chalky for nature. This often occurs in the pic- 
 tures by Guido ; the silvery style is very pleasing, 
 but the excess of it is perhaps as offensive as som- 
 bre darkness. 
 
 AfoRONI. 
 
 Portrait of the Nurse of Lorenzo de Medici, 
 a strong hale-looking woman, somewhat like a lady 
 in appearance, extremely well painted, rich and 
 natural, more like the style of Titian than Moroni's 
 usual manner. Moroni deservedly stands high, and 
 this picture does him ample justice. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 A Holy Family reposing, painted in his usual 
 broad, fulltoned, and magnificent style. No one can 
 pass this picture without confessing that the Vene- 
 tian manner of colouring is well adapted to scrip, 
 tural subjects. It hangs among the works of Ra- 
 phael, Caracci, Julio Romano, &c. ; and its mel- 
 low quiet character interests the mind, while the 
 strong or direct colouring of the Italian school 
 occasionally attracts the eye, and interferes with 
 VOL. I. r. 
 
 
162 
 
 PICTURES IN PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 the sentiment. The pictures by Paul Veronese 
 likewise maintain their place, and the style and 
 colouring deserve to rank in the highest department 
 of art. 
 
 Rubens. 
 
 A Holy Family. This picture seems to be a 
 collection of portraits ; florid and ruddy health ap- 
 pears in all. St John is a beautiful little cherub 
 with curly locks. The fault of this picture is, that 
 familiar nature is too perceptible, and this leads 
 me to say, that likenesses of individual persons, or 
 children, never appear adapted for such a subject ; 
 as a compliment to a worthy family, it may be 
 very well, but a higher view of nature is absolute- 
 ly necessary for any reference to Scripture. 
 
 Fifth Room. 
 Carlo Dolci. 
 
 A small picture of a Holy Family reposing ; 
 St John is asleep, Joseph reclines reading a book ; 
 delicacy of pencilling can go no farther, but the 
 picture is spotty to a great degree ; every figure is 
 a picture by itself, contributing nothing to the 
 general effect ; even a piece of white linen, which 
 is held up by the Virgin Mary, is forced upon the 
 eye, showing neither good taste nor good design. 
 Carlo Dolci, with a few exceptions, has failed when 
 he attempted more than a single head or figure ; this 
 I have often had occasion to remark. It is indeed 
 
 pictures in PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 163 
 
 if 
 
 T 
 
 to be regretted, that beautiful painting in his hands 
 appears incapable of exciting interest in composi- 
 tion; his means are too scanty, and his whole 
 machinery too perceptible for the poetiy of paint- 
 ing. 
 
 Raphael. 
 
 The Virgin upon the Throne, a picture of 
 great size, and containing many figures ; powerful 
 in effect, and one of his finest paintings. The pic- 
 tures in England by this immortal master give no 
 idea of the splendour of his works, his texture 
 and surface, or fulness of pencil. 
 
 Sebastian del Piombo. 
 
 The Martyrdom of St Agatha, from a design 
 by Michael Angelo. This picture, light and rich, 
 IS very different from his usual style of colouring, 
 which is dark, solemn, and impressive. The sub- 
 ject, however, is extremely disagreeable ; we can 
 have no pleasure in looking at a couple of brutes 
 tearing off the breasts of a beautiful female with 
 irons. How Michael Angelo, and Sebastian del 
 Piombo, could employ their splendid talents on 
 such a subject, (if this was really their conjoint 
 work,) appears unaccountable. I would rather they 
 had been engaged together in detailing, like Dante, 
 the sufferings of the infernal dominions, which 
 ni'ght, at least, have had a good moral effect. 
 
1 
 
 164 
 
 f ■ 
 
 PICTURES IN PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 Julio Romano. 
 
 His Dance of the Muses is full of spirit and 
 taste, and the drawing exquisite ; the figures, per- 
 haps, may appear alittle hard against the gilded back- 
 ground, which, from its shining appearance, gives a 
 dead greyish tone to the flesh. The names of the 
 muses are marked under each fitrure. 
 
 Large Room. 
 
 Georgioni. 
 
 A picture of great merit, consisting of the por- 
 traits of John Calvin, Martin Luther, and his 
 Wife. Luther is represented playing on a hai'psi- 
 chord, and Calvin has a mandoline in his hand. In 
 their countenances there is nothing very expressive 
 or remarkable ; certainly not indicating that tliey 
 were the great reformers. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 A Head of our Saviour, in the grand style. 
 Rays of light emanate from the head, and the coun- 
 tenance, though manly, is extremely mild. His 
 dark hair hangs straight upon blue drapery, which 
 covers a vestment of red. 
 
 Bassan. 
 
 Christ in the Garden. A good picture, without 
 his usual vulgarity ; the best, indeed, I have seen of 
 
 fi 
 
 pictures in PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 165 
 
 i^ 
 
 this master. Occasionally Bassan's colourino- is 
 very fine, translucent, and rich, and this picture 
 would do honour to a greater name. His works 
 are numerous every wliere on the Continent ; he 
 painted with a rapid pencil, and does not seem to 
 liave given himself much trouble in composition. Si- 
 milar attitudes appear in many of his works ; there' 
 IS no mistaking them ; a good broad back presents 
 Itself to the spectator, united with a certain Dutch 
 character, in most of his pictures. He thought 
 however, for himself, and, notwithstanding his inan- 
 iierism and sameness, he well deserves a name. 
 
 There are many other admirable pictures in this 
 great room by Titian, Cigoli, Perugino, Guido, 
 Caracci, Caravaggio, Luine, Holbein, &c. 
 
 Small Room adjoining the large one, 
 
 Raphael. 
 
 Portrait of Leo X.; a very suqjrising picture. 
 A\ e can only think of the real persona-e. The 
 fdness of dignity and lofty character expressed in 
 this celebrated picture, conveys the idea that Leo 
 was formed for great undertakings. Two secre 
 taries appear behind him, and for a time we almost 
 imagine ourselves in his presence. No painter 
 not even Titian, has surj,assed Raphael in his 
 hnest portraits ; and this picture of Leo X. is, per- 
 Iiaps, one of the finest in the world. 
 
166 
 
 PICTURES IN PALAZZO PJTTI. 
 
 Titian. 
 A Venus with flowing Hair, a half length pic- 
 ture. Titian has had some singular fancy regarding 
 the beauty of hair, and in this painting it would 
 seem he imagined he could not give enough. It is 
 of a reddish tone between the flaxen and carrot, and 
 would descend down to the heels, were it not held 
 in the hand, which is covered with it. In paint- 
 ing and colouring the picture is inimitable, but 
 why Titian should have given his mind principally 
 to the hair, I own I am at a loss to conceive. 
 Neither the neck, breast, arms, nor hands, are visi- 
 ble. Yet, who shall say it is not a captivating 
 picture ? 
 
 Julio Romano's copy of Julius II. is heavy, 
 and without the clearness of the original ; this seems 
 surprising from so great a master. 
 
 M. Angelo. 
 
 The Fates. — One of the three pictures in oil, 
 said to be painted by his immortal hand. It is a 
 clever sketchy performance, and very different in 
 pencilling from his Holy Family in the Tri- 
 bune ; so different, indeed, that I should almost 
 doubt whether it is really a production of his 
 pencil. The Fates are represented as mere skin 
 and bone, with a sort of fiendish expression, ex- 
 tremely revolting. 
 
 pictures in PALAZZO PITTI. 
 
 167 
 
 Raphael. 
 The Madonna della Impagnata is consi- 
 dered one of his chef d'oeuvres, especially in rich- 
 ness of colouring ; the drawing, too, is almost fault- 
 less. In composition there is nothing wanting ; 
 but in expression it may not be equal to many 
 others of Raphael's works ;— take it all in all, we 
 shall seldom look upon its like again. 
 
 Domenichino. 
 
 A half length, perfect in colouring and pencil- 
 ling, especially the flesh. The whole tone of the 
 picture is most agreeable, the grey hues in the 
 back-ground harmonizing with the rich colours, 
 and producing a bewitching splendour. 
 
 In these notes I have mentioned only a few of 
 the leading pictures in the Palazzo Pitti. Many 
 others, highly deserving of particular notice, are 
 omitted, but such as I have described may, per- 
 haps, enable you to judge of this magnificent col- 
 lection. They are invariably hung in gorgeous 
 frames on dark green and crimson velvet grounds ; 
 and here I may remark, that the olive and yellow 
 grounds are better adapted for landscapes and 
 light pictures, but especially drawings ; a salmon 
 colour likewise is favourable to landscape painting. 
 The gardens of the palace are laid out in regu- 
 lar walks, partly on the slope of a hill or hanging - 
 ground. Numerous statues grace the various ave- 
 

 168 
 
 PICTURES IN CORSTNI PALACE. 
 
 nues and verdant lanes, and cool refreshing fountains 
 invite the eye to dwell upon their silver lines. 
 
 The cypress trees and shrubbery beautifully com- 
 bine with the various delightful views of Florence ; 
 and if there is a paradise on earth, it is certainly 
 there. The public are not permitted to walk in 
 these gardens, except on Sundays and Thursdays, 
 when they are generally filled with gay and fashion- 
 able people. The finest views are from the Belvi- 
 dere, but especially near the palace itself, where 
 the various objects are at no great distance from 
 the eye ; and part of the Palazzo Pitti appears in 
 the striking scene. 
 
 In the CoRsiNi Palace the pictures are but 
 second rate, except a Female Head, crowned 
 with a wreath of leaves, by Carlo Dolci. The dress 
 is blue with golden stars. In finishing it has all 
 the characteristic expression of the master. The 
 Sebastian and a Head of our Saviour, said to 
 be the productions of his pencil, are by no means 
 in good taste. The latter may be an original, but 
 the former I suspect is by an inferior hand. Carlo 
 Dolci, however, as well as other celebrated masters, 
 could sometimes paint very indifTerent pictures. 
 
 A picture of the Death of Priam, by Benve- 
 nuti, president of the academy, and one of his best 
 works, hangs in the Corsini Palace. In design 
 and drawing it is not inferior to English art, but 
 in all other respects it is greatly defective. It 
 
 GERINI palace. 
 
 169 
 
 does not delude the mind into ^the real story, so 
 as to make us forget pretty colouring, and accu- 
 racy, and care, and all the train of attributes, 
 wliich are trifling when compared with that com- 
 manding energy of expression, which seizes on the 
 mind, and transports us as parties into the awful 
 scene. 
 
 The Gerini Palace is full of pictures, very few^ 
 of which are fine, and these few are likely to dis- 
 appear veiy soon ; the proprietor being very de- 
 sirous to dispose of them. The best are as fol- 
 lows : A St Sebastian by Guercino ; the 
 figure is too young for a saint or hero of exalted 
 sentiment: A Virgin and Child by Vandyke, 
 exquisitely coloured, and forcibly pencilled : A 
 small picture by Raphael, of an Infant Christ, 
 natural and beautiful : A St Sebastian by Guido, 
 very little colour, excellent in drawing and anato- 
 mical expression ; quite in his silvery style, but 
 by no means a first rate picture : A sketch by 
 Rubens of the Ascension, freely painted, but 
 mannered to a great degree: The Martyr- 
 dom OF St Andrew by Carlo Dolci; the 
 head of the saint is finely painted, but it is com- 
 mon nature: A Holy Family by Fra. Barto- 
 lommeo ; broad style, but bad drawing : An An- 
 nunciation by Paul Veronese, masterly in pen- 
 cilling, and admirable in colouring : A Holy 
 Family by Guido; Joseph holds the Infant Christ 
 
170 
 
 PICTURES IN MOZZI PALACE. 
 
 with great feeling, and seeming fatherly attention ; 
 there is a corresponding expression of pleasure in 
 the face of the child, which is natural and capti- 
 vating : A Landscape by Salvator Rosa ; very 
 good, and uncommon in composition. Some Bat- 
 tles ; Borgonone's are free, but not first rate : A 
 few Landscapes by Both (if they are Both's) are 
 tawney and bad : Innumerable pictures composed 
 from the various ruins of Rome, all indifferent ; 
 triumphal arches, temples, and sarcophagi, are 
 strangely jumbled together, without taste. 
 
 The Mozzi Palace can boast of a few good 
 pictures, particularly a Carlo Dolci, finer than that 
 in the Gerini Palace, and, of its kind, perhaps one 
 of the best in Florence. The subject is the Adora- 
 tion OF THE Magi. A fine ideal expression of 
 beauty pervades the figure and attitude of the Vir- 
 gin and Child. The head of Joseph is exquisitely 
 painted, and likewise the figure presenting the gift 
 to the Infant Christ. From the Magi appearing 
 immediately on the fore-ground, the Virgin seems 
 rather small, and the swarthy figure too large. The 
 hands, generally, are indifferently done, and the 
 picture wants effect. Cario Dolci's usual spottiness, 
 when he introduces more than one or two figures, 
 is very perceptible in this painting, and extremely 
 unpleasing ; yet it cannot be an indifferent work 
 of art that can boast of exquisite finishing, nature, 
 and expression. 
 
 « 
 
 PICTURES IN MOZZI PALACE. 
 
 171 
 
 The Mount of Olives, by Guido, is beauti- 
 fully painted. Guido is fond of yellow and orange 
 back-grounds; theyare certainly calculated to heights 
 en silvery effect, and the clear reflected lights, to 
 which he seemed so partial. A Boy's Head, by 
 Correggio, is quite a little gem of nature. A Head, 
 by M. Angelo, in fresco, very grand ; the crispness 
 of touch and play of pencil is very pleasing. It is a 
 delightful mode of painting that does not allow 
 the fire of genius to be extinguished, but excites 
 an additional glow by the ready means which it 
 affords for expressing every change of thought. 
 
 The Saint Lucia, by Guercino, is a captivating 
 little picture ; delicacy, beauty, and finishing, pre- 
 vail in every part ; the hands especially are exqui- 
 site: Guercino's taste is always pure. The pictures 
 by Borgonone in this palace are very sketchy ; but, 
 what sketches ! few men have had a freer pencil, 
 uniting truth with spirit. In his Battles of 
 Radicofani and Perugia, the back-grounds are 
 merely scumbled over the priming in the slightest 
 manner, the priming itself occasionally answering 
 for the shadows. 
 
 There are several paintings by Salvator Rosa, 
 but they are all slight and careless. In his shipping 
 he has introduced ropes in situations that never 
 could exist. 
 
 Most of the ancient masters have painted por- 
 traits. An admirable portrait by Paul Veronese, fi- 
 
 t^M'^ 
 
 -1-1,^. ..-Jtoit&flfct^ifr-^A 
 
172 
 
 PICTURES IN MOZZI PALACE. 
 
 nished in a fine general, yet very careful manner, 
 will not fail to attract the eye. It would seein 
 that those illustrious men were fully aware of the 
 great advantage of painting faithfully from nature, 
 uniting her varied character with the noble con- 
 ceptions of their own minds. 
 
 Zuccherelli's Stoum, with Macbiith and the 
 Witches, engraved by Woollett, is in this palace ; 
 it is a slight clever picture, but certainly with no 
 pretensions to the praise of well studied nature. 
 
 Benvenuti's picture of the Saxons swearing 
 Fidelity to Napoleon by the Light of the 
 Moon is one of his best paintings. Napoleon is 
 represented in his grey frock coat, and the prin- 
 cipal light falls on him and a group of officers be- 
 hind. Napoleon is on the right, the Saxons on the 
 left. The principal figure next to Bonaparte is 
 an aged man, who is offering his oath of allegiance. 
 The picture, considering the materials, is very well 
 composed. A collection of figures, in modern mili- 
 tary uniform, have seldom a good effect. Even in 
 this painting, they are unpleasing from the tight- 
 ness of every part of the dress; they appear stuffed, 
 and seem to have no joints. Benvenuti's taste 
 for architecture is always good and applicable to his 
 subject. In the Palazzo Mozzi we were much 
 amused by the Custodies giving the title of Mon- 
 sieur to Michael Angelo and Raphael. 
 
 The RicARDi Palace is by much the finest build- 
 
 iircARDi palace. 
 
 173 
 
 ing in Florence. The noble projecting cornice at 
 the top has a very grand effect. Within, however, 
 there is a melancholy gloom, which immediately 
 throws a damp over the mind. The chapel, in the 
 interior of the palace, is dark and dismal to the 
 last degree ; without a torch, it would be impossi- 
 ble to see the walls. When the light was brought, 
 we perceived saints in glass coffins, relics of various 
 descriptions, sculls, and other emblems of supersti- 
 tion. By the light of a taper, fixed to a rod, we 
 examined the fresco paintings by Benozzo Gozzoli, 
 representing the Visit of the Magi. They are 
 very ancient, and, notwithstanding the formality of 
 many of the figures, and the want of nature in 
 back-grounds, they have considerable merit. The 
 figures are like nothing of the present day, yet 
 they seem to be copied wholly from nature. The 
 variety is endless and amusing, offering much to 
 admire, and little to condemn. 
 
 The roof of the gallery is painted by Luc a Gior- 
 dano, and represents the Course of Human 
 Life. His light sketchy style is well adapted to 
 this department of art, the occasional errors in his 
 drawing being less offensive than in his paintings 
 in oil. 
 
 The marbles in the Ricardi Palace are, in ge- 
 neral, but indifferent. A few, however, are good, 
 particularly two basso relievos in small square 
 
174 
 
 PALACE OF MARQUIS PUCI. 
 
 frames. The two Dancing Figures may be Greek 
 workmanship, but certainly not of the highest 
 kind. The basso relievo of the Centaur is the 
 best. 
 
 The palace of the Marquis Amelio Puci has 
 no pictures of any merit. We were much pleased, 
 however, with the furnishing of several of the apart- 
 ments ; — one of them I shall attempt to describe. 
 The body of the room was a pale light green, 
 the borders, ornaments, and pannels white, with 
 beautiful basso relievos in the centre of the squares. 
 The roof was also green, enriched with ornament 
 in white, corresponding with that of the walls. The 
 doors, each composed of one solid piece of wood, 
 quite plain, without pannels, simply gilded round 
 the edge, were of a light brownish yellow ; the 
 shutters of the same colour. The window curtains, 
 of dark green satin, were lined with the purest 
 white silk, with a deep rich fringe. The chairs 
 were of a delicate pale grey, with white and green 
 silk bottoms. There was something so chaste in 
 the appearance of the whole, that I could not re- 
 sist taking a note of it ; several other apartments 
 were fitted up with taste. The doors, particu- 
 larly, looked remarkably well. Strange to say, 
 the entrance to this beautiful suite of rooms 
 was most offensively mean and dirty. The cur- 
 tains to the windows were of common cloth, 
 
 pandolpiiini palace. 
 
 175 
 
 and the tables were of fir, and of the rudest 
 workmanship. The Italian Palaces, in short, pre- 
 sent a singular contrast of richness and apparent 
 miseiy. 
 
 The architecture of the Pandolphini Palace is 
 simple and grand. The projecting cornice of 
 the roof, like that of the Ricardi, unites well 
 with the belts and friezes. On viewing it from 
 without, the entrance being composed of beau- 
 tiful columns, springing up among evergreens 
 and elegant plants, one expects to advance into 
 an elegant dwelling. By the help of a piece of 
 common rope, you ascend steps on which the dirt 
 is never disturbed, and are surprised to find your- 
 self in a filthy room, with wretched brick floors. 
 With the exception of a cartoon of a colossal 
 Cupid, the Palazzo Pandolphini contains nothing 
 in the shape of art. 
 
 Wine is sold in almost all the palaces, not whole- 
 sale, but in single bottles. A small arched opening, 
 not exceeding eighteen or twenty inches, just large 
 enough to admit a flask, with a door and knocker, 
 may be seen in the front of the building, generally 
 near the principal entrance. Nothing can appear 
 more ridiculous than the hand putting out the flask 
 of wine, while a carriage is driving up in great state 
 with princes and princesses. The wine is of va- 
 rious qualities, from a penny to fivepence a bottle, 
 
176 
 
 CASCINE. CERTOSA. 
 
 containing nearly a quart. At present, the best wine 
 is sold at the Corsini Palace. 
 
 Since I have spoken of a carriage with princes 
 and princesses, I may infonn you, that the fa- 
 shionable drive is the Cascine. The nobility and 
 gentry generally assemble at an early hour after 
 dinner, and drive among the avenues, or halt in 
 the space from whence the different walks com- 
 mence. Here the ladies, with their Cavalieri 
 Serventi, will flirt for hours, and a more stupid 
 scene can hardly be imagined. This situation, 
 however, affords strangers the best opportunity 
 for seeinjr the Tuscan Fair ; and I am much in- 
 clined to think they will be greatly disappointed, 
 not only with their persons, but their voice and 
 manners. 
 
 One of the most agreeable country drives near 
 Florence is to the monastery called the Certosa, 
 a few miles from town. For a short way we are 
 confined between walls, which intercept the view ; 
 but we soon reach the open country, and are pre- 
 sented with varied ground and hills, beautifully 
 covered with olives, vines, and innumerable pic- 
 turesque and pleasing buildings. The monastery 
 is built on a circular hill, and the building, which 
 is extremely irregular, seems of various dates. 
 This, however, is favourable to picturesque effect, 
 and there are few subjects in Tuscany which a 
 painter would sooner study. The great square with 
 
 -:,;*f 
 
 MONASTERY OF CERTOSA. 
 
 177 
 
 t- 
 
 in the monasteiy, is surrounded by a colonnade 
 supporting the roof. 
 
 Each hermit had two or three small apart- 
 ments to himself, besides a little plot of ground. 
 Some of them were employed in turning, paint- 
 ing, or reading ; some cultivated their gar- 
 dens ; while others would mope in gloomy me- 
 lancholy. When they met each other, they sel- 
 dom spoke, silence being a virtue of the order 
 of St Bruno. Their food was put upon shelves, 
 which turned upon a swivel, in a small wicket, on 
 the outside of the wall, near the door of their 
 apartment, fonning something like a cupboard 
 within. The seizing monk, by pressing the wick- 
 et, brought round the shelves ; on wh'ch the va- 
 rious viands were no sooner placed, than the hun- - 
 gry hermit was ready to remove them. One of 
 their principal amusements after meals was to feed 
 about two hundred cats, which came mewing 
 and squalling under the windows of the monas- 
 tery from the woods below : so much do our social 
 feelings require some objects for their exercise, 
 that, in the absence of human society, they impel 
 us to a kind of intimacy even with the inferior 
 creation. The rooms were cleaned when the her- 
 mits went to prayers. 
 
 This was one of the monastic establishments 
 suppressed by Napoleon ; but the present go- 
 verning nt is to permit its restoration. Tlie cells 
 
 Hi 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 M 
 
17S 
 
 FIESOLE. 
 
 and rooms are repairing, and on the 6tli of No- 
 vember, the Festival of St Bruno, twenty-six of 
 the order (which never consisted of more than 
 forty) are to re-enter with all their characteristic 
 state and silence. 
 
 In the small chapel I perceived mock candles 
 upon the altar, but no good pictures on the walls. 
 The Crucifixion, by Mariotti, is but indifferent ; 
 nothing can appear more ridiculous than the angel 
 holding two cups to catch the blood from the 
 hands and side of our Saviour. The frescoes 
 by Pucetti have greater merit. He has suc- 
 ceeded well in his picture of the Death of 
 San Bruno, which happily unites ideal beauty 
 with identity in many of the portraits of the 
 monks. In the cloisters there is some good 
 painted glass, from designs after Raphael ; this 
 was hid when the French suppressed the mo- 
 nastery. The mahogany seats are also designed 
 by his universal genius. 
 
 Fiesole is the favourite drive, both with the Flo- 
 rentine and the stranger; but the road is so 
 narrow, that if two carriages happen to meet, it 
 is possible they may not have room to pass. I 
 have met with several instances of this, which have 
 occasioned great delay, and some danger of unplea- 
 sant accidents. But all our risks have been reward- 
 ed by the exquisite views which the hill of Fiesole 
 presents. " One vast world of wonder spreads 
 
 .? 
 
 fiesole. 
 
 179 
 
 around, and all the poet's tales are truly told.*' The 
 finest time to view this splendid scene is about 
 twelve or one o'clock, before the sun gets round 
 to destroy the breadth of effect. The antiquarian 
 will have afeast at Fiesole;— Cyclopian walls of huge 
 uncemented blocks, not parallel, but composed of 
 stones of different sizes, and some of them indented 
 into each other ; — an amphitheatre, and founda- 
 tions of noble buildings. The man of feeling, too, 
 will be pleased to see the clusters of the vine sus^ 
 pended over the dark portals, where gladiators and 
 wild beasts have entered for destruction. 
 
 Bello S'guardo, and the Villa Strozze, offer the 
 finest scenes imaginable, and S. Miniato al Monte 
 gives the noblest view of Florence. 
 
LETTER XV. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Visit to the three Sanctuaries^ VaUomhrosaj Camaldoli^ and 
 La Verna, — Reflections on Monastic Institutions* 
 
 On our excursion to the three celebrated sanctua- 
 ries, we foliowed the Arno's " shelvy sides ; " and 
 a little beyond Pelago, we struck off for the moun- 
 tainous ret^ions in which Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, 
 and La Verna are seated, among all the attributes 
 of the sublime and romantic scenery. 
 
 Vallombrosa, thougli not exactly agreeing with 
 Milton's description,* has still that lofty character 
 which bids the imagination be free and uncon- 
 trolled, and has suggested a delicious paradise to 
 the divine poet. 
 
 But, although Milton's description of paradise 
 be not strictly referable to Vallombrosa, which 
 served him as a study, but of which he never in- 
 tended to make an accurate delineation, yet it bears 
 a nearer resemblance to it, both in general cha- 
 racter and in detail, than the verses of Pope,t quot- 
 ed by Eustace, as being the best poetical descrip- 
 tion of that famed retreat. There is nothin^^ in 
 
 •Parad. Lost, Book 4. line 131—143. 
 -|' Eloisa. 
 
 VALLOMBROSA. 
 
 181 
 
 the lines of Milton so unlike the original, as " the 
 lakes that quiver to the curling breeze," not even 
 the '* cedar and pine, and fir, and branching /;a/w.'* 
 Lakes there are none, and palms there are none ; 
 but I can more easily conceive a palm than a lake 
 among the sylvan scenes of Vallombrosa. Then, 
 again, the winding streams that shine between the 
 hills, though they glitter very prettily in the poet's 
 page, have no reference to the deep ravines, hiding 
 the fretful brooks in gloomy shade. In short, 
 our imaginations were so raised by the various 
 descriptions of Vallombrosa, both in verse and 
 prose, that we felt a little disappointed with the 
 general view of the place itself. 
 
 The poet and the painter, in their descriptions, 
 seem to view natural scenery in a different manner. 
 Both, however, must be charmed with the magni- 
 ficence and splendour of the wooded mountains of 
 Vallombrosa ; both must be struck with the beauty 
 of the chesnut, and the gloom of the sable pine. 
 They may likewise be equally charmed with the 
 various effects and local features of the place ; a 
 similar sentiment may impress the mind of both. 
 But the poet, in his description, selects from de- 
 tached parts which may not be seen together, com- 
 bining them so as to give what he conceives to be 
 a general idea of the whole. The painter, on the 
 other hand, though he may also select, must make 
 his representation a faithful portrait, strictly re- 
 
182 
 
 VALLOMBROSA. 
 
 VALLOMBROSA. 
 
 183 
 
 ferable to his subject. He, therefore, is more par- 
 ticular in his examination of the component parts, 
 in ord(T to jud^e whether they may be flivourable 
 for picture ; whether, in short, the details, and the 
 great characteristic features, are in unison with 
 each other. In this respect, the painter may not 
 be altogether satisfied with the general appearance 
 of Vallombrosa. The uniform curved lines of the 
 bills, the formal building, the regular pavement, 
 are all against the sentiment inspired by the poet, 
 or the florid describer, and certainly not compati- 
 ble with the ideal beauty in the painter's mind ; 
 yet the latter, in his representation or portrait 
 of the scene, has to contend with these, and I 
 doubt whether there be any point of view in which 
 the sanctuary, with the ** darksome pines that 
 o'er its rocks recline," can be taken so as to an- 
 swer the expectations excited by the poet. But 
 what painter, on seeing Vallombrosa, would not 
 confess that parts of the scenery are fully equal to 
 the finest description whatever, and that he could 
 select such as might enable him to produce a com- 
 position which would be striking and sublime? 
 But would it be Vallombrosa ? yet it is by similar 
 means that the poet makes his beguiling pictures. 
 
 The suppression of this famous monastery has 
 certainly not improved the morals of the inhabit- 
 ants in its vicinity. Without employment, they 
 have generally become a wretched set of mendi- 
 
 |i 
 
 d 
 
 cants, teasing the traveller beyond endurance ; even 
 the monastery was no sanctuary to us from their 
 persevering and harassing persecution. * Vallom- 
 brosa in such a wretched state ! it was absolutely 
 painful to behold it. 
 
 One small room, containing a misemble bed, 
 two chairs, and a table of rude construction, was 
 the only part inhabited in the vast and extensive 
 buildings. In the ancient kitchen, three or four 
 men, like as many robbers, were sitting round the 
 fire. Deplorable, however, as the place appeared, 
 we determined to pass the night there, and having 
 brought some provisions with us, we had a rousing 
 fire kindled in the small apartment, and the crack- 
 ling flames resounded through the range of empty 
 galleries. In the morning, we viewed the interior 
 of the deserted building, and in the room which 
 was the library, we found the shelves still remain- 
 ing, with labels describing the literature which 
 each had formerly contained. A fresco picture 
 or two, and some remains of ornament, still further 
 heightened the appearance of desolation. 
 
 The hermitage, called the Paradisino, appeared 
 as if it would shortly be a ruin ; and from the 
 wretched condition of the whole establishment, we 
 
 ♦ Since writing the above, I have learned that several of 
 the monks have returned, and that the monastery, in course of 
 time, is likely to be on its former footing. 
 
184 
 
 CAMALDOLI. 
 
 can hardly believe that the majestic organ, or the 
 voices oi the choir, will again sound, where 
 
 " Black melancholy sits, and round her throws 
 *' A dtath-Iike bilence, and a drt-ad roposr." 
 
 Our way to the Sanctuary of CamaldoH lay 
 over mountains, through woods and valleys ; but 
 we often looked back on the foliaged hills and 
 banks of Vallombrosa, and the smooth and i>astoral 
 downs above the woods. 
 
 The noble ruins of Romena, chief of Val d' 
 Arno Inferiore, courted our admiration, and we 
 were also delighted with the distant towns and 
 winding waters. Entering the Vale of Prato 
 Vecchio, we were struck with its riches and varied 
 verdure; and could not well believe that the 
 gloi ious sun of Italy that threw his rays across the 
 Apennines, into scenes of the most bewitching 
 beauty, was shining upon the extremity of human 
 misery. 
 
 In less than half a mile from Prato Vecchio, we 
 began to ascend the barren mountains leading to 
 CamaldoH. For a considerable way many of the 
 hills were water-worn and channelled, suggesting 
 the idea of their being skinnedy the bones and 
 muscles being exposed to view. No trees clothed 
 the savage banks, and in many places not a blade 
 of grass. Such a scene of varie I desolation is sel- 
 dom to be met with, even in the Apennines. 
 
 CAMALDOLI. 
 
 185 
 
 Many huge logs of pine from 80 to upwards of 
 VZO feet in length, lay across the rugged road. 
 CamaldoH at last appeared — a paradise in a desert ! 
 Lofty banks covered with wood rose on each side 
 of the monastery, a building of various ages, ex- 
 tensive and picturesque ; behind, enoiTnous aged 
 pines sprung up like columns supporting the hills 
 above ! On our amval at the convent, which is of 
 Benedictines, we were received by the prior, who 
 presented us to the superior, a nobleman of courteous 
 and engaging manners. The prior shortly after 
 led us to his study, where we found a tolerable 
 library. It contained some English books, among 
 which was Buchan's Family Medicine, a work which, 
 I understand, is in great repute in Italy. 
 
 When Napoleon held the imperial sceptre, this 
 monastery was suppressed with that of Vallombrosa, 
 its possessions sold, and every moveable of value 
 carried off. But on his dethronement several of the 
 monks returned, and, for a time, had many meagre 
 daySj till they could, as formerly, sell the pine for 
 their support. The revenue which this yields, 
 though not extensive, enables them to maintain 
 about a hundred persons, who cut the wood, and 
 convey it to the bottom of the mountains to be 
 floated down the Arno to Leghorn. The expence and 
 difficulty of transporting these prodigious logs, by 
 the winding roads and rude bridges across ravines, 
 is very great, thirty oxen not being able to drag a 
 
8^^S^i^8Si»J^;>ife»j^a>aA'ii»S^ i aaa a aaa ai^ 
 
 186 
 
 CAMALDOLl. 
 
 single log above seventy or eighty yards a-day up 
 some of the intricate and steep ascents. 
 
 The worthy prior conducted us in our walks to 
 several delightful spots, and, had we not passed 
 such sterile scenes, we could not possibly have sup- 
 posed that a desert was so near. iSo uncultivated 
 speck appears; the sides of the hills are clothed with 
 luxuriant foliage, and their heights reserved for 
 pasture ; — shewing a uniform richness from below, 
 and altogether offering a delightful assemblage of 
 verdant lawn, rich wood, and sparkling waters. 
 
 About two miles above the monastery, among 
 the rocks and pines, is seated the Sagro Eremo, a 
 little town of hermits* cells, each consisting of 
 three small rooms, constructed on the plan of the 
 founder of the hermitage of St Romualdo. ** Here," 
 as a learned author obseiTes, *' the unfeeling saint 
 established a rule which anticipates the pains of 
 purgatory." * 
 
 The dismal wilderness of pine, and the moaning 
 
 * ** No stranger can behold without emotion a number of 
 noble, interesting young men, bound to stand erect, chaunting 
 at choir for eight hours a-day ; their faces pale, their heads 
 shaved, their beards shaggy, their backs raw, their legs swollen, 
 and their feet bare. With this horrible institute, the climate 
 conspires in severity, and selects from society the best con- 
 stitutions. The sickly novice is cut off in one or two winters, 
 the rest are subject to dropsy, and few arrive at old age."—. 
 Forsj/th, p. 88. 
 
 ui 
 
 CAMALDOLl. 
 
 187 
 
 winds, the forsaken church and mansions, and the 
 recollection of the appalling austerities of the monks, 
 left a great impression of melancholy on our minds. 
 Not a soul inhabits these gloomy regions except 
 the forester, who at one time imagined he had 
 seen the ghost of St Romualdo.* 
 
 We remained nearly two days with the hospitable 
 monks below, and found our accommodation and en- 
 tertainment excellent. The first was a meagre day, 
 but on the second we had better fare, and several 
 strangers who had come to purchase wood were pre- 
 sent. The Padre Foresteraio,t and the Prior him- 
 self, were seated at the table ; two or three hermits 
 attended as domestics, and never allowed our glasses 
 to be empty. Our entertainment on the meagre 
 day consisted of macaroni dressed with cheese, 
 eggs and mushrooms prepared in various ways, 
 pancake, cauliflower, a dessert of grapes, figs, nuts, 
 a sweet cordial, and coffee. We found in Italy a 
 
 •^ Wo osked this credulous person if the spirit had on the 
 habit of the ordiT, and on his replying in the affirniative, we 
 puzzled [.im not a little by inquiring whether he thought it 
 possible that there could be the apparition of a Jlanncl gotvn ; 
 aud whether he might not as well imagine the ;:host of a tobac- 
 co-box, or a hat, or a pair of worsted stockings, which were all 
 as well entitled to a soul as the Benedsctine habit. In this 
 point of view, even a white sheet, the usual accompaniment of 
 ghosts, might be included. 
 
 I A [person appointed to entertain strangers. 
 
 bUSfciShia 
 
188 
 
 CAMALDOLI. 
 
 much greater variety of mushrooms than we had 
 ever seen in our own country, and very superior in 
 quality. Many of them grow in the woods, and are 
 certainly of a very suspicious appearance, though 
 we ate them with great relish, and without the 
 slightest inconvenience. On the second day we 
 had an omelet, skate, and fried soles, macaroni, 
 mushrooms, (a favourite dish with the monks,) toast- 
 ed bread rubbed with garlic, anchovies, vegeta- 
 bles, a dessert ; and each dish was presented in 
 succession. 
 
 The Prior and the Padre Foresteraio partook of 
 very little themselves, being almost exclusively oc- 
 cupied in attending to their guests. The happy 
 faces, the easy manners, and good hving of the Ca- 
 maldolese, incline me to believe that the discipline 
 has relaxed since the days of St Romualdo. They 
 strictly attended, however, to their prayers, and 
 even in the middle of the night we were wakened 
 by the convent bell. 
 
 On leaving these retreats, it is understood that 
 a present should be left in money for the benefit of 
 the poor, and this, of course, should be more than 
 an equivalent for the expence of entertainment. 
 
 We descended the mountains, for the town of 
 Bibiena, seated on a rising hill, and forming the 
 most interesting feature in the plain below. From 
 thence we travelled to the sanctuary of Franciscan 
 Friars, founded by St Francis. The mountain 
 
 10 
 
 LA VERNA. 
 
 189 
 
 ways leading to it were similar to those which we 
 had lately left ; but La Venia itself is very different 
 from Camaldoli in situation and character. Wild 
 and savage nature reigns among the cliffs and 
 pinnacles, hollows and ravines. The monastery, 
 placed on fantastic rocks upon the most aspiring 
 apennine, seems to command the world below. 
 The sublime character of the scene itself, with the 
 vast map of nature spread around, expanding the 
 mind, and turning it to the contemplation of AI- 
 mighty power, seems peculiarly adapted to the de- 
 votional purposes of those who have chosen it as 
 their abode. 
 
 Removed as this sanctuary is from human habita- 
 tion, we found it surrounded by a crowd of people 
 who had come to attend a fair. A fair on the 
 rocks from whence the devil hurled St Francis ! 
 where, too, the saint received from Iieaven stigmata 
 corresponding to the five wounds of Christ. 
 
 This establishment was not suppressed by the 
 French Emperor, although it had considerable pos- 
 sessions. The Franciscan monk is a favourite with the 
 people. In the convent they were settling petty dif- 
 ferences, soothing irritated passions, and recommend- 
 ing forgetfulness of grievances. In short, if we may 
 believe all we hear, the la.vyers are their only 
 enemies. The superior received us with the ut- 
 most kindness, and though at the head of the beo-- 
 ging monlis, was as much of a gentleman as the 
 head of the Camaldolese. He sat with us during 
 
190 
 
 MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 dinner, but only out of compliment ; he tasted 
 nothing, but recommended wine and good living 
 for a journey. We are beggars, he said, and can 
 offer you but little ; that little, however, was an ex- 
 cellent dinner of stewed and fried beef, roasted 
 pigeons, macaroni, omelet, and anchovies, good 
 wine, and a dessert. 
 
 Reflecthig on these monastic institutions, one 
 cannot help regretting that so much heart and 
 mind should be lost to the world by misguided piety. 
 Immured within the solitary precincts of the clois- 
 ter may be found talents and virtues, that might 
 have adorned and improved society. Why should 
 these be buried hi monastic seclusion? Active em- 
 ployment is not more incumbent on us as members 
 of society, than essential to our own individual 
 happiness. It is the great law of our nature ; and 
 the mind, if not engaged in laudable and useful oc- 
 cupations, will either sink into hopeless languor, 
 or seek relief in pernicious and degrading pursuits. 
 Monastic institutions, in general, then, may be 
 considered as injurious to society. 
 
 The order of Saint Bernard, how ever, is well 
 entitled to respect and gratitude. Along with 
 monastic duties, active usefulness is enjoined. 
 The brethren are obliged daily to descend a league 
 on either side of the mountain, attended by large 
 sagacious dogs, kept for the pui-pose, in order to 
 discover or aid such as have been overwhelmed by 
 avalanches, or are exhausted by fatigue in passing 
 
 MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 191 
 
 the alpine barrier. When arrived at the convent, 
 every traveller, without distinction, may, on ringing 
 a bell, receive as much soup and bread as is suf- 
 ficient to recruit his strength, and prepare him for 
 the remainder of his journey. Medical attend- 
 ance is also provided gratis. Women are not 
 admitted into the convents, implying that the 
 absence of temptation is the best security of the 
 virtue of these pious fathers ; and it must be con- 
 fessed, that, whatever we may think of their gallan- 
 try, their prudence at least is desemng of com- 
 mendation. But how much more heroic and praise- 
 worthy is he who stands the brunt of the warfare 
 of life, and contends courageously with the enemy, 
 instead of flying from the field? In every legiti' 
 mate view, therefore, of human duties, it would 
 seem, that it should be our endeavour to acquire, 
 by discipline of the mind, those powers which fit us 
 for fulfilling our duties, and for contributing to 
 the general happiness and welfare of our fellow 
 men. 
 
LETTER XVI. 
 
 LEGHORN. 
 
 Road to Pha Toiver of San Mnvato — Pisa.— 'Road to 
 
 Leghorn, — Remarks on Brillitmcy of Colourinor, — Leg- 
 horn. — Taste fr Dancing. — Lazarettos. — Fate of Dr 
 Smollett Diploma. — Remarks on Cemeteries. 
 
 The country between Florence anil Pisa, by Eni- 
 poli and Porta Jera, is rich with vineyards and In- 
 dian corn. The Arno changes cliaracter with tlie 
 varied ground, gHding, rippling, or munnuring. Our 
 fancy, yieldingto the sliifting effects, sometimes sk.m- 
 med with the shadows of the clouds along the vale 
 to dusky woods, hills, and valleys, and entered the 
 sparkling cottage, the castle, or the palace ; some- 
 times it followed the illuminated sails upon the 
 river, and threaded with them the intricacies of the 
 scenery. In this delightful manner we reached 
 the peaceful town of Pisa. But before I speak of 
 it I must not forget the Tower of San Miniato, 
 said to have been the property K)i the family of Na- 
 poleon before their settlement in Corsica. It stands 
 upon a rising hill near the little town of Scalla, 
 surrounded by some ruined walls which seem to 
 have been intenrled for defence. Its lofty situation 
 commands Val d' Arno, bounded by the Apennines, 
 
 PISA. 
 
 193 
 
 beyond which we distinguished the peaks of the 
 Madonna rising bright with snow. These moun- 
 tains, formidable as they appear, were no defence 
 to effeminate and voluptuous Italy, when opposed 
 to the irruption of the hardy nations of the north, 
 who were attracted by its rich luxuriance and its 
 genial climate. 
 
 The Arno flows through Pisa, whose beautiful 
 buildings are reflected in its tranquil bosom. The 
 air, elastic and bland, is free from that ovei^ower- 
 ing heat which we occasionally felt in Florence ; 
 for the vicinity of Pisa to the sea gives it the ad- 
 vantage of cool refreshing breezes. 
 
 Though this town cannot boast of the magnifi- 
 cence of Florence, yet the Duomo, Baptistry, the 
 Campo Santa, and the leaning Tower, form a cluster 
 of noble and interesting objects ; but simplicity is 
 wanting in them all, especially in the Baptistry. 
 Some projecting cornice or bold commanding line 
 is required to keep in proper subordination the 
 innumerable details which fritter and destroy 
 its symmetry. The sculptured marble columns, 
 brought by the Pisans from the Holy Land, and 
 the brazen gates, are likewise faulty in that respect, 
 though the workmanship of both is beautiful. 
 
 Many pictures of considerable merit, chiefly by 
 Andrea del Sarto, Sodomo, and Perino del Vaga, 
 grace the walls of the cathedral; of these the works 
 of Sodomo rank highest, and confer an honour on 
 
 VOL. I. N 
 
194 
 
 PISA. 
 
 his name. His picture of the Sacrifice of Isaac 
 is delicately conceived, well drawTi, and richly co- 
 
 loured. 
 
 The corridors round the ancient cemetery, called 
 the Campo Santa, are filled with various Grecian 
 and Roman sarcophagi, basso relievos, busts, vases, 
 friezes, capitals, &c. many of which are extremely 
 fine. The sarcophagi, especially, are superior to 
 any that we have seen in Italy : and one vase, 
 on which is exquisitely sculptured a Bacchana- 
 lian subject, was often studied by the immortal 
 Raphael. Some modern sepulchral works are de- 
 licately finished, but a little too profusely onia- 
 mented. In the chapel of the cemetery we were 
 shewn a picture by the famous Pisan, Junto, he- 
 fore the time of Cimabue ; it is painted upon 
 leather, and is a curious specimen of the infancy 
 
 of art. 
 
 The frescoes in the Campo Santa, considering 
 the early period in which they were painted, pos- 
 sess considerable merit. In the works of Benozzo 
 Gozzoli we may trace a happy choice of nature, 
 expressed with ease and taste. In thojse, too, of 
 Buffalmaco, Giotto, Aritino. and Veneziano, se- 
 veral fiirures are dravm with an ease and freedom, 
 which would not discredit a more refined period 
 of art. The whole of these are now engraving 
 by Lascino, professor of the Academy, and will 
 certainly be a treat to you in Britain. In those 
 
 ROAD TO LEGHORN. 
 
 195 
 
 engravings you may discover many parts, which 
 ancient and modern masters have not scrupled to 
 pass for their own inventions. 
 
 In the Academy della Bella Arte we saw little to 
 admire, either of ancient or modern art. The 
 students were copying wretched prints; they would 
 certainly have been better employed, had they 
 been studying in the Campo Santa. 
 
 From Pisa to Leghorn the country still con- 
 tinues under corn and vine cultivation, the latter 
 forming, as in Val d'Arno, the divisions of the 
 fields. Part of the country, however, still requires 
 improvement. Though the plain is monotonous, 
 the lover of scenery may still discover something 
 to admire. The peasantry and children, busily em- 
 ployed with the riches of the harvest, were seen in 
 groupes tearing off the withered leaves from the 
 Indian corn, while others were spreading the golden 
 treasure upon the various thrashing floors before their 
 cottages. The brilliancy of the maize subdued the 
 other hues of nature, and suggested hints of splen- 
 did harmony, shewing that colour, when well ar- 
 ranged, is often more agreeable to the eye than 
 when aerial tones prevail. The full and gem-like 
 brilliancy of Italian landscape, in the autumnal 
 season, must captivate the dullest eye. 
 
 Our road was bordered with festoons of vine, 
 rich with clustering grapes. Under this volup- 
 tuous drapery the mendicants would take their sta- 
 
196 
 
 LEGHORN.— TASTE FOR DANCING. 
 
 tions ; yet, strange to say ! would leave the fruit 
 untouched. 
 
 On arriving here, the contrast between Leg- 
 horn and tranquil Pisa was very striking. Eveiy 
 where is seen bustling and active trade : the 
 streets are filled with Turks, Greeks, and Jews ; 
 and these, with their varied costumes, mingle in 
 the jostling crowd of speculators ; the clamorous, 
 discordant sounds, and yelling cries, confounding 
 our sense of hearing. Awnings project into the 
 streets, with tables and seats for business or refresh- 
 ment. In the evenings, the native fair accompa- 
 ny the men to coffee-houses, which are elegantly 
 lighted, and from the street might be taken for 
 assembly rooms. Art does not exist in Leghorn, 
 save in the alabasters in the Via Grande, the en- 
 chained figures at the harbour, or the tombs of the 
 Campo Santa. 
 
 The Theatre is elegant, and the acting toler- 
 able. Opera dancing attracts the natives most, but 
 I cannot say that their taste is pure. To them 
 elegance has not such charms as meretricious ac- 
 tion. Whirling on one leg at right angles with 
 the body, and stopping suddenly on the toe, calls 
 forth more applause than easy attitude or graceful 
 motion. 
 
 I know not whether dancing can, to any degree, 
 interest the mind, but surely it does not touch the 
 finer feelings of the heart. To enjoy it, we must 
 
 Wi 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 LAZARETTOS. 
 
 197 
 
 be in health and spirits ; but music, soft, entranc- 
 ing music ! sooths the hour of sadness, lightens 
 the pressure of distress, and prepares the mind to 
 encounter severer trials, or greater pain. Who 
 that has heard your own " breathing flute" brino-, 
 as it were, the voice of angels from afar, and " dis- 
 solve the listener into ecstasies," can deny the ma- 
 gic power of music ? 
 
 In the Lazarettos here every precaution is ta- 
 ken to prevent contagion, especially by touch. In 
 the Parlatorio, those in quarantine may see their 
 friends, or converse on business ; but to prevent 
 all contact, or any thing being transferred from one 
 party to another, the room is divided in the middle, 
 by a passage five or six feet wide, and in this di- 
 vision guards are always placed. Few situations 
 are without their interest. In the Parlatorio may 
 be seen a father, who may have been separated 
 from his family many a tedious year, yet prevented 
 from clasping his wife and children to his bosom ; 
 brothers kept aloof from their sisters, and lovers 
 from each other. 
 
 Persons in quarantine must be extremely careful 
 not to come in contact ; otherwise the one party, 
 however short his tenn of quarantine might have 
 been, must remain till the release of the other, 
 whatever may have been his destined period of con- 
 finement. We happened once to see an instance 
 of the vigilance of the Guardiana : A person care- 
 
198 
 
 DR SMOLLET's diploma. 
 
 lessly approached within an inch of a gentleman 
 who had lately entered. Guarda ! was called as 
 loud as possible, and Jesu Maria ! Sacro Christo ! 
 Diavolo ! Bestia ! ran over his wicked tongue as 
 quick as lightning, to the terror and dismay of the 
 poor offender. Money from persons in quarantine 
 must be passed through water, and their letters are 
 taken with tongs, and fumigated before delivery. 
 Yet, notwithstanding ail the precaution used, it is 
 possible that disease may be communicated ; and 
 knowing the fatal effects of touch, I must confess I 
 felt some apprehension, while near a person who had 
 lately recovered from the plague, lest some little ac- 
 tive insect might pounce from him upon me. Al- 
 though a physician is appointed to the Lazaretto, 
 an invalid has little chance of proper medical as- 
 sistance. The doctor is not allowed to feel his 
 pulse, unless he chuses to be confined till his pa- 
 tient obtain his freedom. While speaking of 
 physicians, I may inform you, that a gentleman, 
 on visiting a lady here the other day, saw, among 
 some papers on her table, the diploma granted to 
 Dr Smollet by the University of Aberdeen. 
 Wishing to obtain the curious document, he wait- 
 ed on the lady a second time, but, upon inquiry, 
 he discovered that she had cut it down for thread 
 paper. 
 
 In the Campo Santa, or British burial ground, 
 we saw the sepulchre of this celebrated character ; 
 
 MR IIOIINEU. CEMETEllIES. 
 
 lyy 
 
 and surely, if we may estimate the respect or ve- 
 neration paid to his memory by the innumerable 
 names inscribed upon the marble, Tobias Smollet 
 has had an ample share ; not a single part is left 
 uncovered by the various strangers who have vi- 
 sited this beautiful, yet melancholy field of tombs. 
 Amongst these, we went to visit the grave which 
 contained the remains of Francis Horner, the 
 brightest ornament of our country. To this great 
 man I could wish to pay my tribute of admiration 
 and of grief. Let that tribute be a tear. The 
 voice of private sorrow could scarcely be heard 
 amidst the public lamentation ; and on my part, 
 it were, indeed, a vain and presumptuous attempt, 
 to describe that high intellectual and moral excel- 
 lence, which the eloquent of all parties have emu- 
 lously eulogized, and which, while it shed unri- 
 vailed brilliance on his public career, illumined and 
 gladdened his social and domestic circles.* 
 
 Comparing the various cemeteries, which we 
 have seen abroad, with those of our own country, 
 I cannot help regretting, that, in this improving age, 
 our public burial grounds have been so much ne- 
 
 • The affectionate and unwearied attention, the sympathy 
 an.l lingering hope, with which jVlr Leonard Horner watched 
 over his brother, not only excited the admiration of his coun- 
 trymen who witnessed it, but deeply interested the feelings 
 even of the Italians. 
 
200 
 
 CEMETERIES. 
 
 glected. These abodes of the dead may teach an 
 important moral lesson to the living. A field seems 
 thus to be left open, which taste may fairly occu- 
 py with advantage, and where it may heighten, di- 
 rect, and purify the emotions which such scenes 
 are fitted to inspire. At present, the prevailing 
 sentiment which they excite is one almost of dis- 
 gust. Wild weeds of the rankest growth incumber 
 the graves, where they are allowed to rot, as if in 
 emulation of the corruption which they cover. 
 The pleasing and tender melancholy, which natu- 
 rally breathes from such hallowed ground, is put 
 to flight by the unsightly rubbish which obstructs 
 the stranger's approach to the more conspicuous 
 monuments, and thus consigns to premature obli- 
 vion those names which they can, at best, but a 
 few short years record. Such is the state of the 
 church-yards in most of our towns and cities. 
 In the country they are still worse. There ani- 
 mals of every kind are sometimes allowed to feed 
 upon the graves. I am not disposed to abridge 
 the privileges of the clergyman : Let him be al- 
 lowed, if he pleases, to cut his crop of hay annu- 
 ally from the sod. I wish him every good that 
 the dead or the living can bestow, but I wish also, 
 with pious reverence, that the bones of our fore- 
 fathers be suffered to rest in peace. The bury- 
 ing grounds abroad, with few exceptions, are 
 clean, elegant, and tasteful, the fit abode of the 
 
 CEiMETEIlIES. 
 
 201 
 
 dead, and pregnant with instruction to the llv- 
 
 ing.* The dei)lorable state of ours seems to have 
 
 arisen rather from want of thought, than from 
 
 any intentional neglect : for where shall we find a 
 
 people who reverence their ancestry more than the 
 
 Scotch, or have a greater pride in recalling their 
 
 memory ? From this circumstance, I venture to 
 
 hnit at an improvement, which, if not adopted, 
 
 cannot at least be taken amiss. The annexed 
 
 plate may suggest some improvement, or it may 
 
 serve to give an idea of the disposition of the 
 
 tombs, and the decoration suited to the place. In 
 
 populous and wealthy cities, the plan can easily be 
 
 adopted, and to almost every situation will, in 
 
 some degree, apply. The church-yard is supposed 
 
 » Even the Turkish burying grounds are more attended to 
 than ours. They are generally places of favourite resort. The 
 principal promenade in the evening for the inhab.tanls of Pera 
 (tlie chief appendage to Constantinople,) is a very extensive 
 cemetery, which slopes to the harbour, and is planted with no- 
 ble cypresses, (the funereal tree,) and thickly set in many 
 places with Turkish tombs. The opulent Turks have their 
 graves railed in, and often a building over them, in some of 
 which lights are kept constantly burning. The inscription on 
 the head stones is usually a sentence of the Coran inscribed 
 Jn characters of gold, especially in the cemeteries about Con- 
 stantmople. The Turks, too, like the Welsh, adorn the graves 
 ot their friends often by planting some floucrs about or upon 
 them, sometimes the myrtle, at other times the amaryllis 
 
20^2 
 
 CEMETEIUES. 
 
 to be surrounded, in part or in vvlioie, with a lofty 
 covered arched way, surrounded with sarcophagi, 
 tablets, and slabs for receiving inscriptions, re- 
 cording the names and virtues of the deceased, * 
 and conveying to the heart of the beholder the 
 most impressive lessons of morality and religion, t 
 Here, too, the most delicate and tender sentiments 
 might be excited, divested of every unpleasing 
 concomitant. Here the dead, who afforded us 
 example while living, might still read to us im- 
 pressive lessons. The choice passages of the sacred 
 writings might be extracted for our use : here if 
 any where they would lead us beyond that narrow 
 bound which circumscribes mortality. What a 
 powerful auxiliary to the labours of the divine I 
 This would impress his lessons on the heart, and 
 
 * In the church-yard at Glencorse, near Edinburgh, I have 
 observed a tomb-stone, erected by a grateful master to his 
 faithful servant; this cannot but have a good moral tendency* 
 besides doing infinite honour to the heart of him who placed 
 it there. 
 
 ■f Few cities possess so favourable situations for elegant 
 cemeteries as our northern metropolis. Such an arched way 
 as I have described, enclosing an extensive square on the 
 Calton Hill, where the highest part of the ground should be 
 reserved for the mausoleums of the great, would be not only 
 one of the finest ornaments of that beautiful promenade, 
 but one of the most interesting features in a town, which has 
 been not undeservedly styled the modern Athens. 
 
 1 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM LEGHORN. 
 
 203 
 
 send them forth as our pilots, among the rocks and 
 quicksands of life. * 
 
 From the roof of the house of our inestimable 
 friend Mr Macbean,t with whom we live, we have 
 a distant view of the petty empire of Napoleon, 
 and, if we can procure a proper vessel, we shall 
 depart for thence without delay. On our return, 
 we shall take the road by Lucca and Pistoja to 
 Florence, and, with as much dispatch as possible, 
 proceed to Rome. 
 
 * I cannot resist mentioning a circumstance which strong. 
 ly marks the rapacity of the French commander, immediate- 
 ly previous to their expulsion from this part of Italy. The 
 French general was in treaty with a Jew for the sale of the 
 grave stones at Lido near Venice, and upon the promise afford- 
 ed by the negociation, some had been torn up and carried off, 
 and others were lying in various directions, pushed from their 
 bases, and prepared to be transported. The change, however, 
 of political sovereignty, though in other respects injurious to 
 Venice, protected the sanctity of those asylums of the dead. 
 
 + I must not omit this opportunity of expressing how much 
 we are indebted to the uncommon attention and kindness of Mr 
 Macbean, brother to JEne&s JNIacbean, Esq. Writer to the Sig- 
 net, in Edinburgh. When, after our return, my accomplished 
 and excellent friend Mr D. lay indisposed, we had the com- 
 mand of his whole house, to the utter exclusion of every per- 
 son but his own household. 
 
LETTER XVII. 
 
 ELBA. 
 
 \ 
 
 Coast of Italy from Leghorn to Populonia.— Fishing of An - 
 
 chovies — Elba.— Palaie of Napoleon Napolcon.^Uis 
 
 Improvements and Popularity — Revenue of Elba Poli- 
 tical Importance.— .Appearance of the Cuuntry.^Game 
 
 Noxious Animals. 
 
 We had no sooner decided on a visit to Elba, and 
 made a few arrangements for that purpose, than 
 we found a passage in a boat which belonged to 
 the island, and immediately embarked. Our voy- 
 age, of sixty miles, occupied two days, during 
 which we sailed along the coast of Italy, as far as 
 Populonia, and the promontory of Piembino. The 
 coast is barren and uncultivated ; the interior 
 mountainous, and covered with brushwood ; with 
 one or two distant towers about half way up the 
 mountains. Between the rocky headlands of 
 Mount Nero and Piembino is a long sweep of 
 low sandy beach, with three or four lonely and di- 
 minutive castles, intended as a check upon the pira- 
 tical incursions of the Corsairs of Tunis and Al- 
 giers ; who, ever since the dominion of the Crescent 
 was established in Africa, have infested the shores 
 of the Mediterranean. The islands of Gor^ona 
 Capraia, Corsica, Elba, and some high insulated 
 
 ARRIVAL AT ELBA. 
 
 ^05 
 
 rocks, rose above the horizon in distant perspec- 
 tive towards the west and south. Between these 
 and the shores of Italy, in the deep blue waters of 
 the Mediterranean, are fished multitudes of the 
 finest anchovies. The shoal of these fish lies about 
 six feet below the surface. The fishing is preca- 
 rious ; one boat may catch two thousand weight 
 in a night, while others, in the same station, do not 
 find a single fish. They are salted along the coast; 
 those of Gorgona being the most esteemed. In 
 the evening of the second day, a little after night- 
 fall, we found ourselves under the batteries of Porto 
 Ferrajo. The tall light-house on Fort Stella 
 served to discover to us the situation of the palace 
 of Napoleon, now the house of the governor ; but, 
 except the challenge of the centinel from an old 
 dismantled tower, and the regular cadence of our 
 oars, not a sound was to be heard in this famous 
 harbour, where the Turks, the French, and Eng- 
 lish, in their numerous fleets, had so often car- 
 ried terror, or fraternity, or protection. 
 
 The gates were shut when we reached the La- 
 zaretto. Our arrival was notified to the gover- 
 nor, and on an examination of our bill of health, 
 (a precaution as invariable as necessary in all the 
 Christian states of the Mediterranean,) an order 
 was issued for our admittance. A few galliots and 
 feluccas were anchored along the quays, but it was 
 evident that the commerce of Elba must be very 
 
206 
 
 PALACE OF NArOLEON. 
 
 inconsiderable. We were conducted to a tolerable 
 inn, where we found a supper and beds, — and a 
 knavish landlord. 
 
 Next morning, we paid our respects to General 
 Count Strasaldo, the governor, to whom we 
 had brought a letter of introduction. The old 
 general received us with the greatest affability, 
 and conducted us through his house and gar- 
 den ; pointing out whatever he thought might in- 
 terest us in both, as connected with Napoleon's 
 residence in Elba. The palace is a plain house of 
 two stories with wings, situate on the ridge above 
 the town, between the forts of Falcone and Stella, 
 which crown two rocks somewhat higher, and at a 
 short distance from each other. It commands to- 
 wards the south a fine view of the town, harbour, 
 and mountains, and on the north of Piembino, the 
 coast of Italy as far as the mountains of Lucca, 
 and the islands to the west. Not a boat can stir 
 without being observed. The whole of this ridge, 
 which is a rocky promontory or peninsula, project- 
 ing into the bay, is without a bush, if we except a 
 fig tree in the small garden of the palace. The 
 houses and the rock, (for it is nearly destitute of 
 herbage,) the bastions, and flanking walls of the 
 fortifications, beingall white, are not a little distress- 
 ing to the eyes, and the heat in summer would be 
 almost insupportable, did not the sea breeze tem- 
 per and freshen the air. But we agree with heat, 
 
 J L 
 
 
 
 t. 
 s=) 
 
 H 
 
 s 
 
 <^ 
 
 <^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 p5 
 
 ^ 
 
206 
 
 PALACE or XAPOLKON. 
 
 inconsiderable. We were conducted to a tolerable 
 inn, where we found a supper and beds, — and a 
 knavish landlord. 
 
 Next morning, we paid our respects to General 
 Count Strasaldo, the governor, to whom we 
 had brought a letter of introduction. The old 
 general received us with the greatest affability, 
 and conducted us through his house and gar- 
 den ; pointing out whatever he thought might in- 
 terest us in both, as connected with Napoleon's 
 residence in Elba. The palace is a plain house of 
 two stories with wings, situate on the ridge above 
 the town, between the forts of Falcone and Stclhi, 
 which crown two rocks somewhat higher, and at a 
 short distance from each other. It commands to- 
 wards the south a fine view of the town, harbour, 
 and mountains, and on the north of Piembino, the 
 coast of Italy as far as the mountains of Lucca, 
 and the islands to the west. Not a boat can stir 
 without being observed. The whole of this ridge, 
 which is a rocky promontory or peninsula, project- 
 ing into the bay, is without a bush, if we except a 
 fig tree in the small garden of the palace. The 
 houses and the rock, (for it is nearly destitute of 
 herbage,) the bastions, and flanking walls of the 
 fortifications, beingall white, are not a little distress- 
 ing to the eyes, and the heat in summer would be 
 almost insupportable, did not the sea breeze tem- 
 per and freshen the air. But we agree with heat, 
 
 !=L- 
 
 
 <^ 
 
 ffen 
 
AAPOLEON. 
 
 207 
 
 and in the month of September it is here com- 
 paratively moderate. 
 
 You will naturally expect a variety of particulars 
 relative to Napoleon's habits, plans, and projects 
 in his diminutive empire. This, at least, was to us 
 an interesting subject for inquiry, and perhaps the 
 information which we picked up may not be un- 
 interesting to you. His restless activity attended 
 him every where. On his passage, he had design- 
 ed a national flag, for his imperial island, and ac- 
 tually had it made by the sailors of the frigate 
 which brought him to Elba ; and before he set 
 foot on shore, he had it hoisted on the fort, and 
 saluted by the ships, as they came to anchor in the 
 roads. 
 
 His mode of life was peculiar. He rose at two in 
 the morning and studied till daylight, being par- 
 ticularly fond of French history and Egyptian re- 
 searches. At daylight he went out on foot, or on 
 horseback, whatever the weather, to superintend 
 his public roads, or the building of his country house 
 at Saint Maitino, about three miles from the town. 
 At nine he returned to breakfast, which consisted 
 of a dish or two of meat, of which he eat sparingly, 
 and various kinds of wine, of all of which he tasted. 
 A cup of coffee followed. He then retired to bed, 
 and slept two hours ; after which he remained in 
 his cabinet till the evening, (in summer,) receiving 
 strangers, directing his government, giving audi- 
 
WH 
 
 NAroLEON\ 
 
 ences on business, arran^injjj his plans, and latterly, 
 pcrliaps, preparin<r tliose spirited proclamations 
 which he issued on his landln*^ in France. 
 
 In the evenin*^, attended by Bertrand or Drou- 
 et, he took an airin<^ to Saint Martino or Longone, 
 with more than his usual state, and always in his 
 carriajre. He dined at ei*^ht, and never without 
 company. Persons of distinction he placed beside 
 him ; but at the opposite side of the table there 
 was left an open space. He eat rapidly of a great 
 variety of dishes, calling for them promj)tly as he 
 wantedthem: a fewglasscsof French wine, swallowed 
 hastily, concluded his dinner; and a dish of coffee 
 was the signal for rising from the table, which all were 
 expected to obey, whether they had dined or not. 
 Half an hour sufficed for this meal. If ladies were 
 at table, he would generally help them himself, and 
 sometimes, when gay, was full of compliment to all 
 around. When thoughtful, he said nothing, and 
 nobody presumed to address him. His drawing- 
 room after dinner was usually the little garden 
 behind the palace, where he spent the rest of the 
 evening in conversation with his friends. He retired 
 at eleven, but his mother, and his sister Pauline, 
 still remained till the company separated. On 
 Sunday he went regularly at twelve o'clock to 
 mass, where all the authorities were expected to 
 attend ; the mass was celebrated in the palace. 
 
 A levee followed, when he addressed himself in 
 
 -I 
 
 NAPOLEON. IMPROVEMENTS. 209 
 
 order to each person round the circle. When 
 officers attended with their colonel, it was his prac 
 tice to mquire what was their rank, and where they 
 had served, and to ask the explanation and use of 
 some military mancruvre. If pleased, he passed on ; 
 if not satisfied, he sometimes expressed his opinion, 
 rather candidly than courteously, to the command- 
 ing officer present. He noticed every thing, and 
 always asked the reason of whatever he remarked 
 as additional or wanting in uniform or accoutre- 
 ments. His eye was every where ; and military 
 gentlemen were often much more comfortable af. 
 ter this catechism than before it. The perche, or 
 'w/ijy, was always on his tongue. 
 
 When he arrived in FJba, he was to the last de- 
 gree unpopular. The visitations of the French 
 had left lasting memorials among the suffi^rino- in- 
 habitants ; but his address and liberality soon ''ope- 
 rated a change. He began instantly to alter and 
 nnprove ; to make roads, and to raise buildings. 
 In a few weeks, a theatre was erected for the 
 evening's amusement of the Elbese ; an old church 
 was converted into a spacious barrack ; an easy 
 carriage road was made into the town, and con- 
 ducted by the best level towards the opposite ex- 
 tremities of the island ; others were lined and level- 
 led. Five thousand men were constantly employed 
 at six Pauls, or about three shillings a-day, in these 
 various undertakings j and the peasantry witnessed 
 
 VOL. I, o 
 
210 
 
 IMPROVEMENTS BY NAPOLEOX. 
 
 suddenly the effect of improvements, which, till 
 then, perhaps, they had scarcely imagined. The 
 influx of foreigners, attracted by curiosity to see 
 the individual, who had been unceasingly present 
 to the hopes and fears of almost every man in 
 Europe, during by far the most eventful period of 
 its history, brought money and occupation to the 
 islanders. They seemed to receive a new exist- 
 ence, and for the first time, perhaps, to regard 
 themselves as holding an ascertained place in the 
 map of the world ; a place not only comparatively, 
 but actually distinguished. Within nine months, 
 867 English alone had been presented to Napo- 
 leon. Besides, this was only a foretaste of the 
 blessings in store ; — long years of prosperity, asto- 
 nishing improvements, an imperial revenue, actual- 
 ly overflowing into the pocket of every peasant, 
 peace with the world, a national flag respected, an 
 independent and commercial state. Can any one 
 conceive, as the effect of all this, any thing short of 
 the strongest attachment to the man, whose ap- 
 pearance among them was working such a change ? 
 Add to this his insinuating address. Napoleon, — 
 who had bowed with his single ami the stubborn 
 necks of emperors, and shaken the foundations of 
 the oldest European thrones, that seemed to have 
 existed but by his licence, — talking unattended, and 
 familiarly, with any common peasant whom he met 
 
 with in his walks, interesting himself in his condi- 
 
 1 
 
 POPULAIUTY OF NAPOLEON\ 
 
 i^ll 
 
 tion, listening to his story, hearing, and, when possi- 
 ble, redressing his complaints,— was calculated to 
 make an irresistible impression j and he has done 
 so. The populace are said to have wept when lie 
 left their island, from the regard to his safety. 
 Had he sufficiently regarded his own, he would 
 not have given them occasion for tears. 
 
 It was his policy, latterly, to confine his employ- 
 ment to natives of the island ; these are, of course, 
 attached to him by gratitude. Much of their more 
 general regard is referable, doubtless, to motives of 
 interest and expectation ; and, for the Tuscan go- 
 vernment, the way to remove it, is, to aid the natives 
 in those improvements which had been begun under 
 Napoleon, and to give the utmost encouragement to 
 commerce ; to take, in short, a very warm and pa- 
 rental interest in the prosperity of Elba. The 
 next step will be, to give occupation to those em- 
 ployed by Buonaparte, whom they regarded as their 
 sovereign. In serving him, they obeyed that legi- 
 timate authority, which the powers of Europe had 
 established over them. I am inclined to think, 
 that the Tuscan government will be wise in this 
 respect; unfortunately, their exhausted and slender 
 resources cripple their power, how much soever 
 they may be disposed to promote the improvement 
 of the island. 
 
 The revenue from Elba is, however, consider- 
 able, thougli accounts differ as to the expence of 
 
212 
 
 REVENUE OF ELBA. 
 
 the insular government. The salary of the gover- 
 nor is 12,000 livres. The present military esta- 
 blishment amounts only to 1200 soldiers, 400 of 
 whom are natives. 
 
 The criminal jurisdiction is appointed by the 
 grand duke, who bears the expence. The civil 
 magistracy are annually chosen by lot. The gon- 
 faloniere, or first magistrate, is taken from that 
 class who are rated, in the public valuation roll, at 
 three Pauls yearly of tribute to the sovereign. Of 
 this class there may be about sixty. The four 
 Anzeani are chosen also by lot from the second class, 
 who stand assessed at one livre or two Pauls. 
 These superintend the police of the island, and the 
 duty of one Paul per barrel on all exported wine 
 defrays the expence of this establishment. 
 
 Besides this, the government has the monopoly 
 of salt and of metals. About 30,(X)0 bags of salt, 
 each 200 libs., are annually made, and used or ex- 
 ported. That which is exported to Italy, sells for 
 ten Pauls, or about five shillings a sack, but the 
 natives have it at the half of that sum. The value 
 of the iron mines at Rio I could not ascertain ; 
 but between 220 and 260 men are continually em- 
 ployed in mining, and 22 vessels, from 40 to 100 
 tons each, in exporting an ore which yields of 
 pure metal at least 60 per cent. The return from 
 this source must be considerable. Next, the right 
 of fishing the tunny is leased at an annual rent 
 of 8(),()(X) livres. 
 
 y 
 
 POLITICAL IMPORTANCE. 
 
 213 
 
 Notwithstanding this, I have been told, though 
 I cannot believe it, that the expence exceeds the 
 revenue by 70,000 livres. AVould the Grand 
 Duke of Tuscany, with an impoverished treasury, 
 retain this island at such an expence ? This, to be 
 sure, is no argument to ambition. Ask England. 
 The Grand Duke would still less willingly see it 
 in the hands of any other power. It is the key 
 of Italy on the west ; the whole Italian coasting 
 trade must pass through the channel of Piombino. 
 In the hands of a naval power, it would command 
 the commerce and marine of Italy. The natives 
 wonder that England should not have reserved it 
 for herself. Such a dependence would have com- 
 pensated to them the loss of Napoleon. Next to 
 this, a trade with England, especially in wine, is an 
 object which some of the chief proprietors are at pre- 
 sent endeavouring to establish. On this subject, and 
 the progress of agriculture, the improvement and 
 capacities of the island, we had much information 
 from two gentlemen of the name of Fossi, of the 
 most respectable family of the Porto Ferajo. A day 
 or two after our arrival, we made an excursion with 
 one of these gentlemen to the western extremity 
 of the island. The infonnation which we obtained 
 in this little tour may be thus detailed. 
 
 The island presents, at a distance, ranges of high 
 mountains, either covered with small brushwood, 
 or stony and barren. Among these, however, there 
 
p 
 
 214 
 
 ArrEAIlANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 is a lower range of hills more or less cultivated 
 with numerous little flat valleys, rich in vineyards 
 and various fruits. These retired valleys and little 
 plains are all divided and cultivated like orchards. 
 From the practice of burning for pasture, the wood 
 and shrubbeiy upon the hills is in general small, 
 except where the suggera or cork tree abounds. 
 The rest consists of eveigreen oak, arbutus, 
 covered at this season with its vermillion fruit, 
 wild myrtle in flower, lentanello, heath higher 
 than our tallest broom, and a plant called mucchia, 
 which covers the most barren spots, delighting to 
 grow among stones and sandy soil, and diffusing, 
 to a considerable distance round, an'odour somewhat 
 similar to that of nutmegs. Multitudes of sweet 
 smelling herbs perfume the air ; mint, lavender, 
 and thyme, and many other aromatic herbs and 
 shrubs, to which a botanist would find a name, are 
 scattered with profusion over every hill and thicket. 
 The sea breeze wafts over the island the united 
 fragrance of this *' wilderness of sweets : " it was 
 at first delightful, and we often lingered a little 
 to enjoy it ; it soon, however, became less pleasing, 
 and at length almost overpowering. Among the 
 scented mucchia, the red-legged, or Barbary 
 partridge, is found, but not very abundantly, 
 except near Campo and St Ilario, on the south- 
 west extremity. Game, indeed, is not in plenty, 
 and chiefly consists of birds of passage from other 
 
 GAME. NOXIOUS ANIMALS. 
 
 215 
 
 countries. The beccafico, pigeons, turtles, and 
 quails, are seen only in their transit to the op- 
 posite continents. A species of small hare is the 
 only quadruped of game kind. 
 
 Among ruined walls, and on the bare stony 
 mountains, we meet with the scorpion and tarantula. 
 The scorpion is of a small species, and poisonous 
 only in October. The tarantula, a large insect of 
 the spider kind, is very venomous ; the instan- 
 taneous effect is a total loss of strength; the 
 antidote is well known to the apothecaries, but I 
 could not learn its name. After a long search, 
 we found two of them in their holes; one of them 
 was quite covered with clusters of young, and bit 
 and jumped about furiously. The hole was about 
 one inch and a half wide at the mouth, and six or 
 seven inches deep. It is made in the bare red earth 
 near the stony tops of the mountains. The cure 
 of the bite of the tarantula by music and dancing is 
 quite fabulous. Besides these, we saw on three oc- 
 casions a pretty large sort of serpent. I mea- 
 sured one, which was about four feet in length, 
 but it is doubted whether they are venomous. 
 The progress of cultivation seems, however, to be 
 fast abridging the dominion of such creatures. 
 But, that I may not exhaust your patience, I shall 
 reserve my observations on the agricultural im- 
 provement in this island for my next letter. 
 
LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Agriculture, — Fifiei/ards.- 
 Grain. — Fruii Trees.- 
 saldo. — Fossi Family, 
 
 ELBA. 
 
 -Terms of Tenure.^^JVant of 
 - Wines, — Malaria. — Count Stra^ 
 
 1 HE agriculture of Elba received almost its first 
 impulse from the English in 179^. The new de- 
 mand for agricultural products required greater 
 exertions, and these were repaid by the necessary 
 supply. The French continued the system. All 
 the houses which now enliven the face of the 
 country have been built since the year 1792; 
 before that period, nothing but mud cottages were 
 to be seen. 
 
 The vines are rapidly displacing the brushwood 
 covering of the mountains, and, in a short time, may 
 leave the richer valleys for the culture of grain. Elba 
 seems amazingly adapted for the vine. The heat 
 of the sun, the variety of soil, mountai»ns which 
 afford, by their elevation, all the necessary degrees 
 of temperature, and actual experience, warrant the 
 assertion. Already, the annual produce may be 
 estimated at tiO,(X)0 casks of the best quality, con- 
 taining about 10 gallons each, with about 500,000 
 
 VINEYARDS. 
 
 217 
 
 barrels of the common wine. The best wines are 
 the Bianillo and Aleatico, red ; the Muscat, both 
 red and white ; the Riminese, white. A cham- 
 pagne, of superior flavour, is made of the Procani- 
 co grape, and of the Muscat before it is dried 
 in the sun, which is necessary previous to the 
 manufacture of the Muscat wine. We have drunk 
 Aleatico equal to the best Constantia. We men- 
 tioned our doubt of its keeping sound for any 
 length of time, and were told, that the common 
 wine had been sent to Holland, had been return- 
 ed, and again sent back, and at the end of eighteen 
 months seemed a different and superior wine, and 
 this without brandy. The wine called Bischillato 
 has been exported to America. Proprietors are 
 now beginning to manufacture with a degree of care 
 in the choice and selection of the grapes, which 
 promises a variety of very excellent wines, if the 
 encouragement of a market can be found. This 
 may become, in a few years, a considerable source 
 of commercial and agricultural profit. The export 
 is chiefly confined at present to Genoa, Civita 
 Vecchia, and Leghorn. 
 
 They begin to cultivate their new vineyards in 
 December, and continue their labour through Ja- 
 nuary and February. The population, however, is 
 at present inadequate, and about seven hundred 
 peasants go annually in the end of September 
 from Lucca to assist in the vintage and the cul- 
 
QIH 
 
 VINEYAUDS. 
 
 TERMS OF TENURE. 
 
 219 
 
 ture chiefly of vines. These peasants return to 
 Lucca on the iirst of May. Then* hire is a cer- 
 tain quantity of coarse bread, and a little wine daily, 
 with their bed, implements, and twenty-five Pauls, or 
 about twelve shillings a month. The Elbese are 
 better fed ; each labourer receives about two Pauls 
 a day ; two anchovies at breakfast ; at dinner, two 
 anchovies, or stock fish with beef soup; and again 
 in the evening two anchovies, as at breakfast, and 
 one bottle of common wine. They bring their 
 own bread, and furnish their own implements, and 
 work from daylight till twenty minutes after sunset. 
 Eight men, thus fed, will clear and plant in a 
 week iin cento di vigna, containing six hundred 
 vine plants. The vineyard is in its perfection in 
 the fifth year, when, if the season be tolerable, 
 and the soil good, a cento of vines will produce, at 
 an average, from twelve to fourteen barrels, worth, 
 according to its quality, from ten to fifteen Pauls ; 
 " Piuvecchia la rite, piu forte il vino-y" — " the 
 older the grape, the the riclier wine," is the max- 
 im; and at Procchio, the vines are of one hundred 
 and fifty years growth. The best hills front to the 
 sun ; red stony ground being always the most 
 suitable. In the valleys, the produce is one half 
 greater ; but the wine will not keep. At Cam- 
 po, for example, the common wine falls off in 
 nine months. The Muscato grape is exposed 
 twenty days to the sun, after it has been gathered 
 
 bunch by bunch. For want of hands, the fine 
 southern district from Capoliveri to Acona, which 
 is wholly composed of the red stony soil, so fa- 
 vourable for the vine, is still untouched. 
 
 The land is leased out to the peasants for a pro- 
 portion of the produce ; a half, a fourth, or a fifth, 
 according to the quality of the soil. A fifth seems 
 to be the more frequent proportion, and hence 
 the tenants who hold farms of this extent are 
 called quintazoli. By a law of Leopold's, the tenant 
 cannot commence the vintage without the land- 
 lord's permission ; the value of the landlord's part, 
 and the quality of the wine, depending materially 
 on the time of gathering. One would think, how- 
 ever, that the tenant's interest would be a suflScient 
 security ; yet experience of the contrary has most 
 probably dictated the law : for Leopold was a truly 
 patriotic prince, the avowed enemy of unneces- 
 sary restraints, and rather faulty, perhaps, in over- 
 turning too suddenly ancient customs and laws. 
 
 The perfection of agriculture in this island 
 would be, to confine the vineyards to the moun- 
 tains, and cultivate grain in the valleys and plains. 
 The proprietors are all sensible of this, and are 
 clearing the brushwood rapidly away. The want 
 of grain is felt by every one. The inhabitants con- 
 sume a great deal of bread-corn : as they raise 
 upon the island only a two months supply, — to meet 
 the demand, from four to five thousand sacks, of 
 
2Q0 
 
 WANT OF GRAIN. FRUIT TREES. 
 
 one hundred and seventy pounds each, are annually 
 imported ; each pound contains twelve ounces, and 
 the sack costs to the importer about twenty shil- 
 lings sterling, or twenty-six Pauls. It is brought 
 from the Maremma of Piombino, Leghorn, and 
 the Black Sea, and is sold by the importer to the 
 consumer at twenty-five shillings a sack. The 
 whole value of their wine does little more at pre- 
 sent than supply them with bread ; and the fol- 
 lowing vintage is generally pledged in the spring 
 by the peasantry for corn. The island will proba- 
 bly ere long nearly supply itself; at least its sup- 
 plies of wine will be much greater, and the growth 
 of grain much nearer to the amount of the annual 
 consumption. 
 
 The lower grounds abound with larjre fiir trees 
 of different kinds, affording a succession for several 
 months. Near Rio and Longone, where they 
 are most numerous, we observed many large white- 
 washed ovens for drying the fruit. The figs are 
 gathered in the heat of the day, dried till the 
 evening, put into the oven after it has been heated 
 and swept, to the depth of four inches, upon little 
 sieves made of twigs, and of an oval form. One 
 night, or at most two, are sufficient ; they are then 
 barrelled up for winter use. Besides these, they 
 have several kinds of apples, and particularly the 
 sort well known in France, if not in Ensland, and 
 eaten, like the medlar, when apparently rotten ; and 
 
 FRUIT TREES. MINES. 
 
 S21 
 
 in some places the pomegranate. Their grapes are 
 delicious ; we have almost lived upon them, and 
 bread, and almonds. Every peasant offers them as 
 you pass his vineyard. At this season, almost 
 every man you meet has a large bunch of grapes 
 in one hand, and a crust in the other. Of- 
 ten, in our country excursions, we made our re- 
 pasts in the same manner. Two plants flourish 
 luxuriantly in Elba, which are no where else to be 
 found growing wild in the same latitude. The one 
 is Opuntia, or Fico dTndia, called at Gibraltar and 
 in England the prickly pear ; it has a very thick 
 fleshy leaf, covered with spines ; one leaf grows 
 out of another, and round the edge of the highest 
 leaves the fruit is attached. They should be 
 plucked at sunrise, or it becomes less easy to de- 
 tach them from the plants. The sweet is rather 
 insipid. The other plant, which is seen in vast 
 abundance at Longone, is the aloe, which is said 
 to blossom in England once in a century. The 
 flower stalk is about twenty feet high, covered 
 with flowers. We were too late for this sight, as 
 a high wind had destroyed most of the blossoms, 
 and the remainder were already in seed. 
 
 At the mineral wealth of Elba I have already 
 hinted, when mentioning the revenue; to this, 
 particularly its iron, it is indebted for its chief 
 celebrity in ancient and in modern times. Virgil, 
 in his tenth book of the ^neid, calls it '< Insull 
 
2^22 
 
 MINES. 
 
 MALARIA. 
 
 Q23 
 
 inexhaustis chalybum generosa metallis." The side 
 of a high hill is cut down, wholly composed of the 
 richest iron ore. The appearance of this hill at a 
 distance is red as freestone ; when you walk over 
 the refuse, it glitters as if you were treadino- on 
 myriads of brilliants. The Romans had worked 
 it, and lately a gallery was discovered, with many 
 of their mining implements, blistered and misha- 
 pen with rust. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the hospitah'ty of the di- 
 rectors of the mines. It was impossible, in civility, 
 to refuse their pressing invitations to partake of the 
 exquisite fruit and wine, which each of them had 
 provided. They were not to be denied ; so we 
 did our best, with good will and a hearty appetite, 
 to please all. 
 
 I must preserve the names of Signor Golandi 
 the administrator, whose handsome family of dau^rh- 
 ters were not easily overlooked : (indeed, the wo- 
 men of Upper Rio, and generally throughout the 
 island, possess a considerable share of jrood fi^rure 
 and good looks; all rather embonpoint;) Signor 
 Bobilier the accountant, a man of reading and in- 
 formation, with a well selected little library; 
 and Signor Cabone Garbajlia, who could never be 
 satisfied that he had shewn sufficient kindness. 
 They are all fond of news, inquisitive about Eng- 
 land, and possessing, with regard to it, information 
 which surprised me. 
 
 The chief workmen receive only one livre, six- 
 teen sous, per day. They are simply miners. None 
 of the ore is smelted here, but is exported for that 
 purpose to Genoa, Naples, Folonica, Cecina, and 
 other places, where charcoal abounds on the coast 
 of Italy. Marquesate, eanite, and many curious 
 minerals, are found about the mines ; yellow ochre 
 is prepared in quantities for paint. In ancient 
 times, as well as at present, the ore seems to have 
 been always carried to other places to be melted. 
 There are, however, in opposition to this fact, con- 
 siderable remains of the refuse or scoriae of the 
 furnace, near an extensive set of vaults, and foun- 
 dations of unknown antiquity, opposite to Porto 
 Ferajo. Celtenso, a Gothic writer, who visited 
 Elba in the sixth century, asserts that, in his time, 
 the ore was purified in the island. At present, 
 there is too little wood for that purpose ; and the 
 less of woodland, the better for Elba. 
 
 One would imagine, that in a country abounding, 
 as this does, w ith almost every useful or elegant pro- 
 duction, with channing scenery, and a delightful cli- 
 mate, strangers would be anxious to select a residence ; 
 and so, perhaps, they may, when certain changes 
 have been made, though being but a small island, 
 it pleases better for a short visit, than a lengthened 
 stay. Besides this, however, there is one serious 
 objection, the prevalence of malaria for four months 
 in the year, from June till October. It is chiefly 
 
 ^' 
 
224 
 
 MALARIA. 
 
 to be dreaded in low marshy situations, where there 
 is stagnant water, and decayed vegetation. The 
 neighbourhood of the salt pits is greatly prejudi- 
 cial, not as they say from the salt pits actually in 
 use, but from those which are unemployed, and 
 the wet grounds and ditches adjoining to them. 
 
 Few places are more noxious than the country 
 between Porto Ferajo and the mountains. During 
 the dangerous season, all the peasantry flock in on 
 their little horses, as we have often seen, with their 
 wives and families to sleep in the city. A single 
 night in the country would be followed by a ter- 
 tian, or a quartan ague. At the village of Pila di 
 Campo, in another part of the island, where the 
 land is low and flat, though not in the least marshy, 
 our guide was, in a single night, seized with fever 
 and ague, which hung by him for eleven months, 
 aud deprived him of the use of one of his ears. 
 Unlucky indeed is the man, who, at this season, fails 
 to arrive before niiijht-fall at some safe villao-e. 
 These, as Rio St Ilario Pierro, St Marcian 
 Capolivero, and Poggio, are purposely built high 
 upon the mountain, to ensure their exemption 
 from this dreaded malady. 
 
 It is occasioned by the carbonic acid gas, 
 which rises in dense fumes after sunset from the 
 rank vegetation and stagnant water, and is very 
 perceptible to the smell. The want of drain- 
 ing, and clean and wholesome cultivation, is the 
 chief cause. The government, to whom the 
 
 COUNT STRASALDO. 
 
 Q'>5 
 
 salt pits belong, seems quite inexcusable, in per- 
 mitting any of the pits to remain foul and neglect- 
 ed, when the effect is so pernicious to the health 
 of the inhabitants. But the government is as yet 
 too recent to liave done all, and every one admits, 
 that the Grand Duke is a most amiable and excel- 
 lent man. 
 
 They do not say so much of all his ministers ; yet 
 he could not have chosen a better governor for 
 Elba than the Count Strasaldo, whose conduct 
 and countenance are alike benign. He is much 
 liked, for his maxims of government are wise and 
 moderate : a man of 75 is not likely to be fiery and 
 intolerant ; years and experience have subdued his 
 passions, and an age so pregnant with change has 
 taught him to regard, with liberal allowance, acts of 
 ancient opposition. In fact, in the first proclama- 
 tion which he issued on his arrival, he declared his 
 respect for freedom of opinion, when unattended 
 by acts of hostility to the government. Some of 
 those who were the most attached friends of Napo- 
 leon he respects, countenances, and recommends 
 to public employment. I never saw a man who 
 bore in his countenance the legible stamp of more 
 goodness. He returned our visit two days after 
 our arrival, gave us a constant invitation to the 
 evening conversaziones at his house, and would 
 have furnished us, had we needed them, with let- 
 
 VOL. I. p 
 
 i . 
 
 : t 
 
^S6 
 
 FOSSI FAMILY. 
 
 ters of introduction, that would have ensured us a 
 welcome reception from the best families in every 
 part of the island. 
 
 The kindness of Mr Fossi rendered that unne- 
 cessary. That family had sacrificed almost their 
 whole fortune in their early resistance to the 
 French. Since 179^^, it has risen again to af- 
 fluence. Mr Fossi's brother is an officer in 
 the English service, and gave us the introduc- 
 tion to which we were indebted for such mark- 
 ed attentions. His father was a barrister, a man 
 of genius and learning, and the friend of Metas- 
 tasio. His uncle, Pandolfo Barberi, is the present 
 prior of St Lorenzo in Florence. From both the 
 brothers I have had much, and, I believe, accurate 
 infoimation. They are both equally anxious to pro- 
 mote the trade of the country, especially with Eng- 
 land, in the article of wine; and are, at present, em- 
 ploying themselves in ascertaining to what perfect 
 tion, as an article of commerce, the wine of Elba 
 can be brought. 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 Quarry of White Marble.— Napoleon's Country House at 
 San Martino — Lucera. — Volterrajo. — Monte Cristo. — St 
 Pierro and llario.— Granite Pillars at Secheta.—Pianoso. 
 
 — ^^(^gg^'o Waterspouts Napoleon's Departure 
 
 Sketch by Napoleon. -^Napoleon believedto be in England. 
 
 Tunny Fishery — Variety of Fish — Magnetic Momitain. 
 — ElOese Sailors — Populonia. — History of Elba, 
 
 A QUARRY of white marble, said to rival that of 
 Carrara, has lately been purchased by the Fossis 
 from the government ; it is close to Longone, and 
 was discovered by Bonaparte. Out of it a sta- 
 tue of himself was sculptured, and the beautiful 
 urns, vases, and baths, which are still to be seen at 
 his country house of San Martino. We accompa- 
 nied Mr Fossi to see it ; it is plain, with windows 
 in front, and two stories high. The entrance hall 
 is large, and in the Egyptian taste ; on this floor 
 there are five other apartments, the servants were 
 lodged below. In front, and still lower, was a 
 kitchen and a complete set of offices ; on the top of 
 which, level with the under story of his own dwel- 
 ling-house, was a broad flat terrace, commanding, 
 through a valley filled with vines, a distant view of 
 the harbour and hason of Porto Ferajo ; — the city 
 projecting into the sea, which appears like a fine 
 lake surrounded by mountains. 
 
Pi 
 
 ^28 
 
 LUCERA. VOLTERRAJO, 
 
 We saw several ravens on the neighbouring hills, 
 which, when other provisions fail, will condescend 
 to a fig, and with their characteristic sagacity, they 
 always select the best. In our way back, we took 
 a circuit along the mountains, to see the remains of 
 the old Roman fortress of Lucera, which caps the 
 narrow summit of one of them to the south of 
 Porto Ferajo, and which, as well as that of Volter- 
 rajo on a conical mountain to the east, is a con- 
 spicuous feature in the landscape from the capital 
 of Elba. Both were furiously besieged by Barba- 
 rossa in 1543, when he united with the French in 
 their attack on Savoy. Lucera fell, and was blown 
 up by the Turks. Volterrajo maintained a suc- 
 cessful resistance ; but the slaughter of the natives 
 was such, that Giacomo Appiani, Prince of Piom- 
 bino, to whom Elba belonged, was obliged to pro- 
 cure the departure of the Turks by the delivery of 
 the son of Sinam, the friend of Barbarossa, who 
 had been made prisoner by Charles the Fifth, at 
 the surrender of Tunis, and whose detention in 
 
 Piombino was the cause of this sanguinary assault. 
 
 A solitary chapel now stands among the ruins of 
 
 Lucera. 
 
 The mountains of St Marciano, at the west end 
 of the island, and said to be five thousand feet in 
 height, seemed to promise some romantic scenery, 
 and we resolved to visit them, and to make the 
 tour of the whole western district. 
 
 MONTE CUISTO. ST PIERO AND ILARIO. 229 
 
 The first part of the road was conducted by 
 Bonaparte along the sides of high hills, following 
 all their sinuosities, and enjoying a fine sea view of 
 Capraia and Italy, till we descended into a fertile 
 plain covered with vineyards, and turning to the 
 left across the island, took the road to San Piero 
 di Campo. The conical island of Monte Cristo, a 
 steep and barren rock, lies at some distance to the 
 south, being tenanted by monks of the order of 
 Camaldoli. In 7^7, the monastery was disman- 
 tled, and the monks made slaves. In the ninth 
 century, it was again laid waste by the Saracens, 
 and in 1453, on the alann of another attack by the 
 Turks, the monks retired finally to Pisa, and 
 built the monastery of St Michael in Borgo. We 
 passed through Pila, where our guide had former- 
 ly caught the malaria fever. Here we saw several 
 trees of pomegranates, and the first date palm 
 which we had seen growing luxuriantly in a wild 
 state. The track or road is extremely rocky, the 
 surface of this district brown and parched, parti- 
 cularly where the crop had been gathered in, as no 
 grass springs among the scanty stubble. The vil- 
 lages of St Piero and St Ilario stand high on the 
 mountain sides, without a single tree on the bare 
 granite. The houses are very massy, and closely 
 built together, but have much appearance of desola- 
 tion ; within, they are very roomy and clean, and 
 the people polite, and rather well-looking. . The 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 t 
 
230 
 
 SACCHETTA.— PIANOSO. 
 
 mountain sides consist of brown granite gravel, and 
 granite rock, worn into deep little ravines, and 
 sprinkled with rank heath, (stipa,) low arbutus, 
 and a few trees. 
 
 Not to be wanting in curiosity, we went to see 
 the granite pillars at Sacchetta, about three miles 
 off, and much talked of in this island. Two are fi- 
 nished, lying near the shore, with the words " Opera 
 Pisana" on one of them. Two are quite in the 
 rough, at some distance up the hill, together with 
 another large mass of the same rock, which, though 
 it gets the name of the Ship, was obviously intend- 
 ed for a great vase or cistern. They were intend- 
 ed, it is said, for the cathedral of Pisa. Perhaps 
 the vase was to be a baptismal font,— but they are 
 not worth a visit. 
 
 From this we have a good view of the little flat 
 island of Pianoso, where Posthumius, the third son 
 of Agrippa, and of Julia, the daughter of Augustus, 
 was confined by order of his uncle. In the same 
 manner, Seneca the philosopher was banished by 
 Caligula to Corsica, which we could now see. The 
 remains of the baths of Tiberius are still distinctly 
 discoverable from the same place. Many Roman 
 marbles have been dug up in Pianoso. It has 
 been since laid waste by the Genoese and the 
 Turks, and occupied by the English. Count Stra- 
 soldo is at this time taking possession of it, as a 
 pertinent of Elba, with a view of making that 
 
 ICOVANNI. — POGGIO. 
 
 231 
 
 fertile little island a granary for the use of the 
 larger. 
 
 On the mountain near St Ilario, raised upon an 
 isolated mass of granite, is the very ancient square 
 tower of St Icovanni : it is thought to have been 
 built by the Romans for prisoners of state. 
 
 We were sumptuously entertained at St Pierro by 
 a friend of Mr Fossi's, and in the evening went 
 a mile farther to St Ilario, where we supped, and 
 slept at the house of our conductor's brother. The 
 place contains about five hundred inhabitants. 
 Hither, too, the peasantry from the lower villages 
 resort at night during the unhealthy season. The 
 place has still the remains of strong walls, that 
 more than once successfully resisted the assaults of 
 the Turks. Our countrymen, too, had, during last 
 war, made several landings, — surely to no purpose 
 but to waste the lives of themselves and the poor 
 inhabitants, for they never remained twenty-four 
 hours together. 
 
 Next morning we were on our march by six 
 o'clock to cross the high mountain above Poggio, 
 in order to breakfast at that romantic village. The 
 view from the top, and in the descent to Poggio, 
 is remarkably fine ; about half way down we en- 
 ter a forest of aged chestnuts, which clothe mag- 
 nificently this district, and that of Murciano, and 
 make them striking exceptions to the other parts 
 of Elba. Below us lay the harbour and little vil- 
 
232 
 
 WATERSPOUTS. 
 
 lage of the Marina of Marciano, with boats at 
 anchor ; between us and which the lower hills and 
 valleys were all covered as usual with vines. 
 
 A fine winding road, of about a mile, led us to 
 Murciano, another romantic town, castellated on a 
 rocky prominence. From a high point, a little fur- 
 ther on, I observed a deep scar to the west, where 
 about a year past a waterspout broke, carrying in 
 an instant soil and inhabitants through a deep 
 ravine down into the sea. Such waterspouts are 
 frequent in the Levant in the fall of the year. This 
 phenomenon is finely described by Falconer in the 
 Shipwreck. We did not climb up to the chapel 
 of the Madonna, even though Bonaparte had ho- 
 noured it with his presence. After paying our 
 respects to the Potesta, or Judge of the place, who 
 had kindly invited us to partake of refreshments, 
 w hen we met him at Saint Pierro, where he had been 
 shooting, we returned to an excellent dinner at 
 two o'clock, at the house of the worthy curate at 
 Poggio, with whom we had breakfiisted. It was a 
 meagre day, but he had deferred his mess of maca- 
 roni (though he had eaten nothing that day) till 
 he could join us in the only way which his scruples 
 allowed, at the excellent and substantial dinner 
 which he or Mr Fossi had provided. 
 
 The evening was showery, and we were pressed 
 to stay all night, as the road to Porto Ferajo (ten 
 miles distant) was, for the first five miles, through a 
 
 THUNDER STORM. 
 
 233 
 
 narrow, stony, and mountainous track. The even- 
 ing, however, seemed to improve, and the weather 
 to dissemble, till we were fairly in its power, and 
 then came on such a storm of lightning and rain, as 
 is rarely met with in more northern latitudes. Um- 
 brellas were quite ineffectual, and the close and 
 vivid flashes made me think them scarcely safe : to 
 ride fast was impossible in such difficult roads. We 
 attempted once to take shelter, but we soon con- 
 cluded, that we risked less from the rain and light- 
 ning than from cold and fever. When we reach- 
 ed the good road, the poor ponies w^ere exhausted ; 
 " nathless we so endured," proceeding at a walk 
 to Porto Ferajo. The gates were already shut, and 
 we had to send to the governor for leave to enter. 
 This we obtained promptly, but before the draw- 
 bridge was lowered, w^e had waited a full half hour, 
 drenched and exposed to the noxious air, and suf- 
 fering from apprehension as well as fatigue. Our 
 friend Mr Fossi agreed with me, that a hearty 
 supper, and a glass of generous wine, were excel- 
 lent restoratives. Our third companion, Mr Mel- 
 lini, did not quite recover from the consequences 
 of this drenching during our stay in Elba. This 
 gentleman also showed us every possible kindness. 
 His brother, the Colonel of Engineers, who intro- 
 duced us, was the intimate private friend of Napo- 
 leon, and attended him in his last progress to Paris. 
 Napoleon is here understood to have been driv- 
 
234 
 
 napoleon's departure. 
 
 en to this step, by learning that the sovereigns 
 at Vienna had determined to remove him to a se- 
 curer prison. Had they attempted this, they would 
 have repaired a gross blunder, by a less pardonable 
 violation of treaty. To place him in Elba was ri- 
 diculous : but in the face of a solemn treaty, to re- 
 move him by force, would have been infamous, at 
 least for England. The other parties had little 
 character to lose. Policy is their principle of 
 action. However, Bonaparte sent a small boat to 
 watch the English frigate into the port of Leghorn, 
 and in two hours after he was actually at sea. But 
 he found himself far from easy, either in mind 
 or in stomach. He asked Colonel Mellini to try 
 an impromptu for their mutual amusement : when 
 the following Italian verses were in a short time 
 produced. 
 
 ** Staiico <li lanti tradimenti il pondo, 
 Abbandona it Lion L'Elbano reano. 
 In qui volea, dulerna pace in segno, 
 1! centro augusto stabilir del mondo. 
 L'Klba lo piansi; e j>u dal mar prol'undo 
 Sorge Nc'ttuno di rispetto in segno. 
 Giason ne esulta, e a ospite si denno 
 Offie il velMi Medea, di.no fecondo. 
 Turba di duci ed insionali, fuoii 
 Escan dal ti nipio lincontrar lo, e mesta 
 Piu non si usronde ed iliui spera onesta 
 Italia, e via riprendi asta e cimiccro. 
 Miialo ed gia I'idea ravvolge in testa, 
 Che il destin de* cangiar del niondo intero.»* 
 
 «« 
 
/:>/. / 
 
 f"^-^- 
 
 SKETCH BY NAPOLEON. 
 
 ^^35 
 
 " Fatigued with the oppression of conspiracies, 
 the lion quited his Elbese reahn, in which he 
 wished to fix the august centre of the world, in 
 token of eternal peace. Elba wept for him, and 
 Neptune, in sign of respect, emerged from the 
 deep sea ; Jason rejoiced, and to so worthy a 
 stranger offered the fleece of Medea, a rich gift. 
 A crowd of generals and distinguished warriors 
 came out from the temple to meet him ; and Italy 
 no longer, in sadness, concealed her partiality, but 
 awoke to honest hope, and quickly resumed the 
 spear and helmet. She saw him, and already 
 cherished in her mind the idea, that he was to 
 change the destiny of the whole world." 
 
 It is sufficient to remark, that fiction has ever 
 been the animating principle of poetry, and that 
 poetry and prophecy have long ceased to be united. 
 Hie old Greeks used to throw out many sarcastic 
 gibes at the oracles of Delphi, and marvelled that 
 the God of Poetry should deliver his own prophe- 
 tical responses in such execrable verse. 
 
 We have got a curious sketch by Bonaparte, 
 which will amuse you on our return. It is a de- 
 sign for the uniform of his Corsicans, and was done 
 to assist his explanation of it to Colonel Mellini. A 
 very pointed question was one evening put to me 
 by the colonel : " Whether, if he, once my de- 
 clared enemy, should throw himself on my gene- 
 rosity, I would act to him as England had done 
 
 *'ar-yimalr ol* a etkrtrli by tlif Ku<ipri>t>v 1^'npolecn 
 
 • of 039 nnnifojnn for liij* Klbf.^r ijTaards , 
 
 HJiifcaaiiaaawaBaa^trfiiti-. 
 
 'V*A£;SU.'^j^t..kMr v^ ■^.irffls.iStfya'aaiSS.i.rfajS^^.i 
 
 .^t'^'^J^TC-A'^^.-^.. ii/>v»'>r.S*haiifflfcA aa- 
 
t236 NAPOLEON BELIEVED TO BE IN ENGLAND. 
 
 to Napoleon ?'' To say " no," without explana- 
 tion, would have been to disavow the conduct of 
 my country. I tokl liim, that though, as an indi- 
 vidual responsible only to myself, I might have 
 done otherwise, yet that, as one of a confederacy, 
 which had been nearly destroyed by his violence, 
 and could attribute the act of surrender to nothing 
 else than weakness or despair, I should have con- 
 sidered myself bound, by every principle of hu- 
 manity, honour, and self-preservation, to secure 
 myself and my friends against the probable re- 
 newal of such terrible disasters ; and that Eng- 
 land, in sparing life, had done enough. 
 
 It will surprise you to learn, how obstinately it is 
 believed that Napoleon is still in England, and that 
 the government intends to bring liim forward again, 
 as an engine of European policy, and the torch that 
 is to kindle afresh a European war. I assured 
 them as obstinately that the policy of England 
 was peace, and that the exhaustion of a long war 
 made it absolutely necessary, unless her honour 
 was grossly assailed ; that nothing could be more 
 detestable to the mind of a Briton, than the notion 
 of bringing forward Bonaparte, under any circum- 
 stances, to embroil Europe, or to undo that which 
 she had spent so many hundred millions to effect : 
 that such a cause could only be acceptable to the 
 admirers of Machiavel. 
 The people of Elba may be very content, if they 
 
 TUNNY FISHERY. 
 
 ^37 
 
 do not turn ambitious. They seem to be equally 
 removed from poverty and riches. A moderate 
 fortune is from two to three hundred crowns a 
 year. There are no beggars ; whether this arise 
 from the general distribution of property, or from 
 the measures of government. Twice only was I 
 asked for charity, and that not by connnon men- 
 dicants. 
 
 Though there are no overgrown fortunes, cer- 
 tain individuals are pretty affluent, particulariy a 
 Mr Senno, who rents the tunny fishery at 36,000 
 livres a year. The amount of the produce is uii- 
 known, but the mode of fishing is curious ; and in 
 the months of June and July, the season for fish- 
 ing, many people from all quarters come to see it. 
 Nets are anchored to the bottom, in the shape of 
 an oblong, with meshes, through which the fish 
 (weighing, at an average, from 100 to '200 lbs. 
 each) can easily enter. These are made of a kind 
 of rush, of which the fish are said to be fond. 
 Within are strong nets, which, when drawn up by 
 ropes from the bottom, where they are allowed to 
 rest, divide the oblong into three apartments, 
 securing, at the proper signal, the fish in each. 
 When an order comes for 2000 or 8000 pounds of 
 fish, Mr Senno rows out to one of his nets, and 
 smoothing the surface of the water with oil, can 
 seethe tunny playing below, and can pi-etty neariy 
 ascertain the quantity. Boats are then stationed 
 
^238 VARIETY OF FISH. — MAGNETIC MOUNTAJN. 
 
 ELBESE SAILORS. 
 
 239 
 
 round and at the cords attached at the bottom to 
 tlie nets. These are quickly hauled up, one after 
 another, and drawn closer together at top. The 
 tunny, feeling themselves confined, instantly begin 
 to fight, and then the fishers strike them under 
 the throat as they come to the surface. The fish 
 is so strong and so violent, that it still requires 
 nuich address to avoid serious mischief in getting 
 them into the boat. 
 
 The greatest variety of excellent fish teem 
 around the shores of Elba. I may mention haddock, 
 turbot, skate, cod, the coumion and red mullet, 
 seals, ^'T^7///V?^', whitings of great size, pike, pilchard, 
 a few salmon, tunny, besides at least thirty other 
 kinds, for which I can find no English name. The 
 tunny is boiled half an hour, cut into small pieces, 
 exposed a night to the air, and then with a little 
 salt put into small jars under a covering of Florence 
 oil, and sent to Leghorn, (lenoa, and Rome : it 
 will keep well for two or three years. 
 
 Before I set sail for Elba, I must not forget my 
 loadstone ; there is an entire mountain of it near 
 Capoliveri. The compass of ships sailing near the 
 south-east point of the island is said to undergo 
 the greatest confusion and derangement ; 1 had 
 not an opportunity of ascertaining this, but I 
 brouglit away two large bits of the rock. The de- 
 rano-ements of the needle are of no consequence 
 to the Elbese, for they never employ a compass 
 
 in their coasting trade : in fact, they are, perhaps, 
 the worst sailors in the world. But you shall 
 judge. 
 
 After taking leave of our excellent and hospi- 
 table friends, from the governor downwards, we 
 set sail with a wind that should have carried us to 
 Leghorn in six or seven hours. At ten in the 
 morning we had run half way, when a squall of 
 wind and rain, which rent our rag of a sail, not 
 stronger than an old shirt, made them run back to 
 Populonia with all possible speed. A calm suc- 
 ceeded, they would not row in a calm ; a light air 
 sprung up, they must have their sail mended, 
 though they had another untorn ; and besides, certain 
 other vessels on the same course were still at anchor. 
 Presently these stood out to sea, but the captain 
 asserted, that, as they were ships of war, they must 
 seek a port at night, and that we should arrive as 
 soon. Li short, it was clear that he had determin- 
 ed to lie all night quietly at anchor, though in 
 the most dangerous place of this pernicious clime. 
 There was no help for it ; we tried to sleep in the 
 small hold, stretched upon damp salt, suffocated 
 with heat and stench, and devoured by fleas ; our 
 legs, exposed under the open hatchway, were wet 
 with showers of noxious dew. It lightned during 
 the night, and though the wind again sprung up, 
 the skipper expressed his fears of a " grosso mare," 
 or rough sea, though it was as smooth as n river. 
 
 
^240 
 
 POPULONIA. 
 
 HISTORY OF ELBA. 
 
 £11 
 
 I was so angry at his ignorance, unwillingness, and 
 cowardice, that I told them downright ly that they 
 were no better than a pack of land-lubbers ; and that 
 it was evident why Lord Exnioutli, in his first ex- 
 pedition, refused to take a single Italian in his 
 fleet. I afterwards mentioned this unaccountable 
 timidity, and I was again told that they are the 
 worst sailors in the world. The Romans, before 
 the Punic war, were as skilful and courageous at 
 sea. The *' robur, et ivs triplex circa pectus," so 
 much vaunted by Horace, is a rare production on 
 the coasts of Italy. How sadly degenerated since 
 the days of John and Andrew Doria ! 
 
 But in all disappointments, such as ours, there is 
 some alleviating circumstance. We saw the Etrus- 
 can remains of Populonia, a city which attached 
 itself, like Elba, to the fortunes of ^Eneas, near 
 twelve hundred years before the birth of Christ. 
 
 ** Sexcentos illi dcderat Populonia matcr, 
 " Expertos belli juvencs.*' 
 
 Here were the earliest furnaces for melting the 
 ore of Elba. The ancient city may have been 
 lartTC, for the ruins seem extensive. The present 
 is a small fortified village on the top of the pro- 
 montory, and near are a few blind arches, the 
 only part that bears a Roman stamp. The ex- 
 treme insalubrity of the place in part accounts for 
 its decay. The great Maremma of Piombino, 
 which connects this promontory with the high land 
 
 of Ita y, thoujrh rich in vegetable produce, is ab- 
 solutely uninhabitable: being even more pernicious 
 to health than the Campagna of Rome. The 
 people look relaxed, swollen, and sallow. They 
 have a Walcheren fever continually among them : 
 It IS of the same kind as that which prevails in the 
 fens of Lincolnshire, and the Hundreds of Essex, 
 though much more malignant and fatal. Bad diet, 
 and perspiration from labour, increase the suscepti- 
 bility : and hence this fever is prevalent chieHy 
 among the working class. 
 
 It was my intention to give you a short outline of 
 the history of Elba, but my time is at present too 
 short for any thing more than the hastiest sketch. 
 It has belonged to the Etruscans, the Romans, 
 and the Goths, in the ancient and middle ages ; and 
 then to the Pope and the Princes of Piombino. It 
 has been attacked by Genoese, Spaniards, and 
 lurks ; and. in the middle of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury, vvas annexed by Charles the Fifth to the 
 Grand Duchy of Tuscany, as a means of protec- 
 tion against Constantinople, Tunis, and Algiers. 
 The I mice of Piombino then became the sovereign, 
 jvhde Tuscany and Naples held the property of 
 1 orto Ferajo and Longone ; till, on the breakin-. 
 out of the French revolution, it was successively 
 held by the French and the English, and, in ISH 
 was retained by Buonaparte ; since that time it' 
 has passed undivided under the power of Tuscany 
 
 VOL. i. Q •'* 
 
 8».'HEiiJiaia^a.:ja>'.>'.!«-.-»j.--.!jii.. -■ •..JM-f ■M-y>«jjKfcaBgcL-^«ih<»-» 
 
LETTER XX. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Return to Florence hj Lucca.— Baths of Pisa Lucca 
 
 Baths of Lucca. — Observations on sketching rapidly, 
 
 Pistoia, — Frato* 
 
 On our return to Florence, by Lucca, we again 
 passed througli Pisa, and availed ourselves of this 
 opportunity of visiting the baths. They occupy 
 about a hundred houses of various elevation, si- 
 tuated at the bottom of calcareous mountains, the 
 lower declivities of which are covered with luxuri- 
 ant olive trees ; the eaith being thrown into ter- 
 races, and supported by dry walls. We met the 
 river Serchio, which, in breadth, resembles the 
 Tweed at Coldstream in Scotland. 
 
 The small principality of Lucca belongs to the 
 Duchess of Panna. On entering, and on leaving 
 it, strangers must submit to the trouble of having 
 their trunks examined, or purchase exemption 
 from this ceremony, by a present to the Doganna 
 or custom-house, besides a stated sum which it is 
 entitled to demand. We saw some of the peasant- 
 ry employed in sprinkling the ground with liquid 
 manure, while others were irrigating it with large 
 scoops, such as our bleachers use in watering linen. 
 
 LUCCA. 
 
 S43 
 
 Lucca IS a town of considerable beauty. It is 
 surrounded with walls, which would fonn, how- 
 ever, but a very feeble defence against a besieg- 
 ing enemy. The towers of the churches, rising 
 above these walls, have a fine effect in the rich 
 and beautiful landscape ; the view being bounded 
 by the Apennines, which ascend in the most fas- 
 cinating forms to the skies. 
 
 On a nearer inspection, the churches are less 
 pleasing than in their distant effect. That of Sau 
 Martino is not destitute of external beauty, were 
 not its architecture frittered away in numberless 
 unmeaning arches. Inlaying with white and black 
 marble is still to be seen in every town ; but cer- 
 tainly its pretensions, like those of most pretend- 
 ing things, greatly exceed its merits. Among the 
 treasures of this church is a piece of timber, said 
 to have been part of the true cross, and held, of 
 course, in peculiar veneration. 
 
 In the church of San Romano there is a paint- 
 ing of the Crucifixion by Guido, unaffected in 
 colouring ; and in drawing, accurate and expres- 
 sive. For the picture by Bartolommeo, I cannot 
 say so much. The church of San Michele is dis- 
 figured by Gothic trifling; ornamented shafts of 
 columns may suit a light rural building, but in a 
 large edifice they are always out of character. 
 
 The celebrated Baths, at the distance of a few 
 miles from Lucca, are situated among mountains, 
 
'2U 
 
 BATHS OF LUCCA. 
 
 whose inviting aspect would, of itself, have render- 
 ed the temptation to visit them irresistible. Our 
 road lay through valleys which presented, as we 
 advanced, the finest variety of romantic scenery. 
 The sun was just sufficiently elevated above the 
 horizon to produce that aerial effect, which soft- 
 ened and blended into each other the lines of the 
 mountains ; the river, broad and deep, bore on its 
 sparkling waves the glory of the skies ; towns and 
 villan-es of picturesque appearance were seen on the 
 acclivities and in the valleys ; and noble chestnut 
 trees, uniting with the profusion of charming ob- 
 jects, formed the most delightful pictures. Bridges 
 of singular construction spanned the rapid stream ; 
 and rafts of wood were either hurried down the 
 current, or glided under the hanging branches 
 which obscured the evening light. But what lan- 
 guage can describe the scenes which the baths and 
 the neighbouring buildings on the mountains com- 
 mand ? Surely such scenes must have the most 
 cheering influence on the heart of the invalid, 
 while he enjoys, at the same time, the benefit of a 
 pure atmosphere, secure from the danger of sultry 
 hours. The man of taste and feeling will miss a 
 luxurious feast, if he visit not the vale and the 
 baths of Lucca. 
 
 Another of our excursions from this interest- 
 ing town was to the palace of Prince Bacciochi, 
 who married the sister of Napoleon. Richness, 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON RAPID SKETCHING. 245 
 
 united with simplicity, appeared in every apart- 
 ment. The Princess was greatly beloved. Roads, 
 bridges, and many other improvements, were made 
 at her command, and the principality of Lucca 
 became a paradise. 
 
 On our way to Florence, we passed through 
 Pescia, a clean, well paved, and pleasant town. 
 From the bridge we had a view, which we sighed 
 to leave. Proceeding on our journey, we soon 
 came to the town of Serravalle : it crowns a slop- 
 ing hill, and its picturesque situation, with the 
 whole scenery around, reminded us of the interest- 
 ing compositions of Poussin. On crossing the ris- 
 ing ground below the towers of Serravalle, we 
 came within view of Pistoia. Travelling hurriedly, 
 we could have only a passing glance of many a 
 charming scene. This we regretted the ijiore, be- 
 cause we found it impossible to retain so vivid an 
 impression of their characteristic beauties, as to 
 enable us to describe them with accuracy. 
 
 In general, it may be observed, that description, 
 unless written on the spot, can never convey a dis- 
 tinct idea to the mind of one who has not seen the 
 original ; and even when drawn up with every advan- 
 tage, the impression which it communicates must be, 
 in some degree, vague. Were twenty artists to form 
 a picture, even from the most correct description 
 of scenery, they would all be different, and not one 
 would be true to nature, A few slight lines with 
 
246 
 
 PISTOIA. 
 
 the pencil, under whatever disadvantages, would 
 embody more of the reality of the scene, and con- 
 trol the imagination within the limits of truth. 
 That 1 might not lose entirely a variety of interest- 
 ing subjects, I attempted to make what may be 
 called carriage sketches, done when we were tra- 
 velling at the rate of from five to six miles an hour. 
 Such sketches, if revised, while the recollection of 
 the origmals is yet tolerably fresh, may impart a 
 pretty accurate general idea of any scene, which is 
 not too varied and complicated for this rapid mode 
 of delineation ; at least, they will aid the imagina- 
 tion more than any verbal description. It must be 
 observed, however, that this applies only to scenes 
 at such a distance from the eye, as to afford time 
 to sketch nearly the whole, before the respective 
 parts are materially varied in their aspect by our 
 change of place. It is almost unnecessary to add, 
 that this loose mode of drawing ought by no 
 means to be adopted, unless evei*y other be im- 
 practicable. 
 
 Pistoia, a town of considerable extent, is adorned 
 with many curious and splendid edifices. The 
 Baptistry, the Cathedral, and the adjacent build- 
 ings, as seen from the Piazza del Duomo, form 
 noble combinations for the pencil. The alternation 
 of black and white marble still prevails, but is here 
 less offensive than in most of the other towns in 
 which we have seen it. 
 
 DUOMO OF PRATO. 
 
 247 
 
 The great ward of the hospital of Pistoia, like 
 that in Florence, is open at each end ; and, through 
 the iron gates from the street, we may perceive 
 the sick lying on iron beds in two parallel rows. 
 We walked into it, and found that great attention 
 was paid to the comfort of the sick: the physicians, 
 aware of the value of cleanliness, have the hospital 
 kept in the highest order ; even more so, indeed, 
 than most of the palaces of the princes. On the 
 principal front of the hospital is a basso relievo ex- 
 tremely well executed, in some vitrified substance, 
 representing persons attending the sick in various 
 diseases. At Pistoia we were greatly imposed upon 
 by our knavish landlord, and were obliged to apply 
 to the police, who did not hesitate to reduce his 
 exorbitant charge. Indeed, a British subject has 
 only to apply for redress in Italy, and he may rely 
 on immediately obtaining it. 
 
 The country between Pistoia and Prato is flat 
 and tame, except towards the Apennines ; but its 
 amazing luxuriance would make the eye of the 
 agriculturist beam with delight. 
 
 The Duomo of Prato is gloomy and grand, 
 though not without decorations of silver and gold- 
 the miserable people begging and praying at the 
 same time, absolutely drove us out by their impor- 
 tunity. On the outside of the cathedral, fronting 
 the street, is a beautiful marble pulpit built quite 
 upon the corner of the edifice. It i.s supported by 
 
'2iS 
 
 INDIAN CORN. 
 
 a right angular pillar with brackets and rich carv- 
 ing. The body of the pulpit is circular, and in 
 the compartments are sculptured, in the finest taste, 
 several dancing angels. From the centre of this 
 exalted seat is a beautiful column supporting a 
 canopy, but the symmetry of the design, the taste 
 in the detail, and the excellent finishing, is superior 
 to any thing we have seen of the kind, and led me 
 to wish I could have procured a model of it for our 
 churches in Scotland, where the taste and fonn of 
 some of the pulpits are comparatively mean. 
 
 From Prato to Florence there is little variety. 
 The country is much the sjime as it appears on the 
 opposite side near Empoli. The crops of Indian 
 corn, when green, are very beautiful, but in autumn 
 the leaves have a dry and withered appearance, 
 shewing too much of the stalk, and as the plants 
 are considerably separated from each other, they 
 do not property combine for picture. The golden 
 grain is not visible till the leaves encompassing it 
 are stripped away ; it is with these leaves that the 
 flasks of wine and oil are covered, and I believe 
 they are generally used foi stuffing mattresses, 
 being infinitely more elastic than straw. 
 
 LETTER XXL 
 
 PERUGIA. 
 
 Road to Rome — Arezzo — Pictures in the Cathedral^ 
 Italian Sky — Intrinsic beauty of Devo Drops.— Lake of 
 Thrasimene.— Perugia.— Pictures, Academy^ and Build- 
 ings.— Pictures by Raphael, Ferugino, and Guido Obser- 
 vations on giving such pictures to youth to study from 
 
 Casa della Penna — Petrifying Spring of San Phillipo^ 
 applied to theformation of Casts» 
 
 We left Florence for Rome, on a delightful fros- 
 ty morning. The countrymen were wrapped up 
 in their great coats as in the * coldest climates, and 
 the women carried chofFers with charcoal to keep 
 themselves warm. 
 
 The gossamer hung with its diamonds from bush 
 to bush, and the dew drops fell in momentary 
 glances. The olive had assumed its darkest colour 
 of ripeness, and the crops were surprisingly rich. 
 The grape had long since been gathered, and 
 
 ♦ The Italians seldom use the arms of their great coats ex- 
 cept occasionally as pockets. The coat is generally hung upon 
 the left shoulder, the sleeves hanging loose. 
 
t250 
 
 FAREWELL VIEW OF FLORENCE. 
 
 nothing but a few golden leaves appeared upon 
 the festoons, which were suspended from the trees. 
 
 Upon a rising hill some few miles from Florence, 
 we took our farewell view, and fortunately were on 
 that point of elevation which brought all the inter- 
 esting objects together. The numerous towns, vil- 
 las, and palaces, combined, and gave the appearance 
 of one vast and mighty city. But when we as- 
 cended, the objects separated, and in some degree 
 lost their interest, by being scattered in the land- 
 scape. The Tuscan olive, too, which is generally 
 planted in rows, looked rather formal. The se- 
 cond crop of barley was in the car, (28th Novem- 
 ber.) The Italian streams, beautiful and fanciful 
 as they often are, winding among rich or romantic 
 scenes, want transparency to do justice to the varied 
 beauty which graces their banks. 
 
 From Piano Delia Fonte the country opens to 
 the east, and the Apennines assume superior gran- 
 deur. Arcades, projections, and colonnades, seem- 
 ed the favourite style of building, and we were 
 struck with the beauty of Incisa. Frying of fish 
 and roasting of chesnuts in the streets was here the 
 principal employment of the lower class. 
 
 From the beautiful scenery of llenaccio on our 
 left, we travelled to Levane, where we passed the 
 night. In the morning, the mists rose in horizon- 
 tal lines, leaving the tops of the hills uncovered, 
 and occasionally the sunbeams penetrated througli 
 
 12 
 
 AREZZO. 
 
 Q5i 
 
 them, disclosing many smiling villages and build- 
 ings. The smoke from the burning chaff upon 
 the fields rose but a short way when it took a 
 horizontal direction along the sky, as if pleased to 
 follow the curious mists in all their haunts throuo^h 
 olive groves and russet glens. The peasantry, 
 singing the morning hymn, were pruning the vine, 
 or digging wit!) long handled spades. Every circum- 
 stance in a country so foreign to our own, excited pe- 
 culiar interest. The sun, throwing his playful beams 
 among the rich confusion of silver mists, half dis- 
 covered towns, purple hills, and richest verdure, 
 gave an enchanting cast to nature, which before 
 we had never witnessed. Every incident, in short, 
 even to our white horses' manes, opposed to dark 
 shadows or varieties of colour as we moved alon<^ 
 gave amusement, and hinted the value of a little 
 brilliancy, especially where monotony prevailed. 
 
 Much of the country on our way to Arezzo is com- 
 posed of clay and gravel, and the hills arc strangely 
 worn and channelled by the surface waters. Arezzo 
 itself, seated on a gently swelling hill, commaiuls a 
 lovely plain surrounded by mountains of pleasing 
 form and moderate elevation. This city was the 
 birth place of Vasari, and the cathedral contains 
 several of his works ; indeed, the l.igh altar may be 
 said to be covered with them, both before and be- 
 hind. His St George and the Dragon, which 
 is held in high estimation by the priests, is absolute- 
 
^52 
 
 PICTURES IN THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 HOUSE OF PETRARCH.— ITALIAN SKY. Q53 
 
 ly bad in most of the essential parts. St George 
 himself is but a common figure, without dignity, 
 and the horse, miserably drawn, appears little bet- 
 ter than the portrait of a rocking horse : and wliat 
 can be more revolting than a figure which is near 
 the dragon, the flesh stripped off, and appearing 
 to contain disgusting putrid bowels ? Every part, 
 indeed, wants dignity and taste. 
 
 The Miraculous Draught of Fishes, by the 
 same master, is greatly better, but San Donato 
 and St Peter are the best of his works. I should, 
 however, mention the Virgin in the picture of the 
 Ascension, which is pretty good; the angels, like- 
 wise, have at least some drawing to recommend 
 them. Vasari's portraits of himself and parents 
 are all extremely vulgar in the expression, though 
 better painted than his other subjects. In the 
 cathedral is Benvenuti's celebrated picture of 
 Judith and Holifernes. Judith stands elevat- 
 ed upon steps holding the head, surrounded by 
 several figures, all of them well designed, and in 
 better composition than appears in any other pic- 
 ture of the master. Sabatclli's painting, which is 
 a companion to Benvenuti's, looks poor and spirit- 
 less. 
 
 In this cathedral is an ancient altar, curious in 
 the workmanship, which is said to have cost no less 
 than L. 15,000. Twelve priests in rich robes were 
 officiating to five beggars, who kept importuning us 
 
 for charity while the prayers were in their mouths. 
 Arezzo, indeed, sadly abounds in this appendage 
 of Italian travelling, rendering examination almost 
 impracticable by their incessant teasing. 
 
 In the principal square are some handsome build- 
 ings, especially the customhouse designed by Vasari. 
 We were also pleased with a circular temple, which 
 had all the character of antiquity, mouldered, cor- 
 roded, and covered with many interesting hues ofan-e. 
 After visiting the square and the ruins of a Roman 
 amphitheatre, we went to see the Casa Petrarclia, 
 or house of Petrarch, into which we walked as if it 
 had been our own. At present it is inhabited by a 
 physician, and is greatly modernized, having all the 
 external appearance of a comfortable dwelling. On 
 the front is an inscription relative to Petrarch, bear- 
 ing date 1810. 
 
 We left Arezzo for Camoscia, near Cortona. 
 The second spring presents the most refreshing 
 greens on the various fields, but the trees retain 
 their russet robes, and do not appear to bud a 
 second time, at least not to produce any effect 
 upon the landscape. 
 
 The Italian skies are clearer than those of 
 Britain, and occasionally we see them very brilliant. 
 To-day, towards the evening, the horizon appeared 
 of the brightest orange, with an intermediate and 
 harmonizing colour of the most delicate hue of 
 cannine, which lost itself in pui-ple ; the colour of 
 the mountains was of a blackish neutral tone, whicli 
 
I 
 
 254 
 
 INTRINSIC BEAUTY OF DEW DROPS. 
 
 greatly coutributecl to the splendour of the sky, 
 especially when it was likewise opposed to the dark 
 cool grey of the olive groves. A little wandering 
 stream went sparkling on, as if it had been cover- 
 ed with a thousand diamonds. 
 
 No traveller stopping at Camoscia should omit 
 the opportunity of seeing Cartona, the capital of 
 EtFuria. It is a noble ancient town, with Cyclo- 
 pean walls, situate upon the acclivity of the hill 
 immediately above Camoscia. It contains much 
 to interest the curious visitant, especially its aca- 
 demy, museum, and library. The views are in- 
 imitably fine ; particularly from some points where 
 part of the ancient city is brought into contrast 
 with the rich country and distant hills of Radico- 
 fani, and the Thrasimene and Ckisian lakes. As 
 we travel on, no circumstance seems in vain. The 
 very breath of our horses in these frosty mornings 
 gives a value to many a singular scene : affording 
 an accidental choice of clearness or general effect, 
 and appearing pale, or of an amber colour, as the 
 sun may shine on it, it suggests the value of each 
 effect upon the various objects, — ever teaching 
 something to the observing mind. 
 
 The dew drops on the bushes, or trembling and 
 sparkling on the spray, never failed to charm us. The 
 associations of purity, freshness, and coolness, might 
 enter into our emotion of delight ; but it certainly 
 arose, primarily and chiefly, from the intrinsic beau- 
 t\j of the dew drops. We are so formed by nature as 
 
 LAKE or THRASIMENE. ^55 
 
 ,0 derive pleasure from particular colours and 
 forms, independent of any reflex feeling ; and the 
 nifant, when first it sees a rose or a diamond, or 
 'ts view ,s directed to the glories of an evening 
 sky, displays a kind of transport, which surely cant 
 not, without overstrained ingenuity, be referred to 
 any previous association. A lower degree of plea- 
 sure may, ,n the same manner, be excited by objects 
 of inferior beauty, while from others the infant will 
 turn away with indifference, or shrink in disgust. 
 
 \Vhen we left Cortona, the beautiful and ex- 
 tensive lake of Thrasimene soon appeared, bath- 
 ing the shooting promontories with its pellucid 
 water. The lovely peaceful mirror reflected the 
 mountains of Monte Pulciana, and the wild fowl 
 skimming its ample surface, touched the waters 
 with their rapid wings, leaving circles and trains 
 of hght to glitter in gray repose. As we moved 
 along, one set of interesting features yielded to 
 another, and every change excited new delight. 
 yet. was It not among these tranquil scenes that 
 Hannibal and Flaminius met ? Was not the blush 
 of blood upon the silver lake of Thrasimene ? 
 
 " Her aged trees rise thick, as once the slain 
 
 Lay where their roots are ; but a brook has la'cn- 
 A little rill of scanty stream and bed— 
 A name of bloo.l from that .lay's sanguine raiu- 
 And Saiiguinetto tells ye where the dead 
 
 Made the earth wet, and turn,.! the „,nulli„. waters 
 red." 
 
 I 
 
236 
 
 PERUGIA. 
 
 PICTURES IN THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 257 
 
 After passing the stream of Sanguinetto, we 
 entered the Papal territory. Nothing could ex- 
 ceed the fulness of the olive haiTest; yet our sa- 
 tisfaction in contemplating the bounty of nature 
 in this luxuriant country, was greatly checked by 
 seeing some miserable beings, almost as black as the 
 fruit, picking up such as fell upon the ground. 
 Surely man, with all his faults, deserves a better 
 fate than to starve amidst abundance. 
 
 Advancing to Perugia, we were presented with 
 fine varieties of swelling hills, buildings, and olive 
 groves, and Apennines in the horizon tippped with 
 snow. 
 
 Perugia crowns the summit of a hill, as indeed 
 do most of the towns in Italy, to escape Malaria, 
 the invisible enemy of the plains. From the tower 
 of the cathedral, looking east, we see Assisi, the 
 birth place of St Francis, seated on the bosom of 
 a hill, and overlooking a rich and fertile plain. 
 Various parts of Perugia seem to mix with the 
 almost shapeless hills, bounded with higher Apen- 
 nines. The south presents the ramparts, ancient 
 walls, towers, and cupolas of the various monas- 
 teries and churches. To the west, we see the 
 numerous buildings appearing, as it were, to climb 
 the ridges of the hill on which the city stands, yet 
 overtopped with majestic mountains. From the 
 
 north, the city seems to hang in air, the smoke 
 
 1 
 
 and vapours from below, rising against its aged 
 walls. 
 
 After examining the panorama from the tower, 
 we entered the Cathedral, in which are several 
 pictures by Pietro Perugino, and various other 
 masters, besides rich carvings after the designs of 
 Raphael. 
 
 The painting of the Madonna della Grazia, 
 by Pietro Perugino, is honoured with a silver crown, 
 diamond ear-rings, and pearl necklace, and is like- 
 wise surrounded with innumerable ofFerino-s of 
 hearts, legs, arms, and feet. When we went to see 
 this picture, which is hard and formal in its execu- 
 tion, several poor people were devoutly praying at 
 the shrine; and to our astonishment, they were sud- 
 denly turned away, that we might see the picture ! 
 The paintings in the cathedral are generally but 
 indifferent. St Sebastian and St Lorenza, by 
 Scaramuccia, are perhaps the best. 
 
 In the church of St Augustine there are many 
 paintings by Perugino. Grace may be traced in 
 the figures of our Saviour and St John, bap- 
 tizing in the river Jordan, although the drawing 
 of them is but indifferent. 
 
 Joseph and Mary worshipping at the Birth 
 OF Christ is a mellow picture, without hardness j 
 the heads especially are excellent. 
 
 Raphael's Madonna and Child, with St Ni- 
 coLo, St Bernardino, St Jerome, and St Sebas- 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 R 
 
'iJS 
 
 CHURCH OF SAN PIETRO. 
 
 TiAN, is but ill composed. The Virgin sits uncom- 
 fortably in the sky, with three angels' heads to sup- 
 port her feet. The Adoration of the Magi, 
 likewise by the hand of Raphael, is very like an 
 early painting by Perugino. 
 
 Barocchio's pictures are free and broad, but 
 overloaded with drapery ; they have nature, how- 
 ever, to recommend them in many parts, which 
 certainly makes up for a multitude of faults. 
 
 The Madonna and Child, with St Agatha, 
 St Llcia, St Peter, and St Paul, is the best 
 of Perugino's works, and may be said to surpass 
 those by Raphael in this church. The Eternal 
 Father, too, by Perugino, is a favourite specimen 
 of the master. The carvings of the stalls in the 
 choir, from designs by Raphael, are extremely fine; 
 and the seats are easy : a muttering monk advan- 
 ced to one of them, and threw himself into it 
 seemingly to sleep. In the Oratorio Delia Sig- 
 nora arc fourteen pictures by Sasso Ferrata ; the best 
 of which are second and third from the door. Many 
 of the figures are well drawn, in good attitudes, 
 with a general pleasing effect of light, and shade, 
 and colour. 
 
 We were rather late in going to the church of 
 San Pietro. The church was dark and gloomy ; 
 but an obliging monk, without the slightest cere- 
 mony, snatched down one of the prodigious vvax 
 lights from the altar, to shew the various paintings 
 
 FIRST attempts OF RAPHAEL, &C. ^59 
 
 by Vasari, Sasso Fen-ata, &c. He also led us to 
 the robing room, in which are several small pic- 
 tures by Perugino, which appear to have been por- 
 traits of monks turned into saints. In execution, 
 they are masterly and free ;— a little painting, too, 
 by Raphael, of Christ and St John, is excellent 
 in colouring and infantine expression. The 
 French have greatly injured the church of San 
 Pietro, by the removal of the frescoes, and marks of 
 violence may be seen in many places. The curious 
 missals and illuminated books, they seem to have 
 thought below their notice, or it is more probable 
 they were concealed from them. In the Academy 
 Delia Bella Arte are several of the first attempts 
 in painting of Pietro Perugino, and of Raphael, 
 his immortal scholar. They appear to be but a 
 step beyond the works of Giotto or Cimabue ; one 
 of Guido's earliest works, too, of a boy paring an 
 apple, is hung with them, and certainly doesMiot 
 indicate his future excellence : it is painted on a 
 pannel at least three inches thick, and primed with 
 stucco. The innumerable instances which we have 
 of early paintings on stucco grounds, on pannels, 
 shew, that the departure from fresco or absorbent 
 grounds was not altogether sudden, and that the 
 final adoption of oil grounds was the result of time 
 and much experience. 
 
 The first attempts of the great masters are cer- 
 tainly encouraging, and much information may be 
 
260 
 
 MUSEUM. GABINETTO ANATOMICO, 
 
 derived from them ; but they are surely a dan- 
 gerous collection for young practitioners to study. 
 It is true, they shew the first glimpses of genius 
 and improvement, but they shew no more. Taste 
 is ill defined, apparently accidental, and not suf- 
 ficiently under rule to guide an inexperienced 
 mind. Yet the students of this Academy draw 
 and paint from these early pictures, and from 
 great cartoons, after the extraordinary and singular 
 figures in the Last Judgment of Michael Angelo. 
 The masters of these subordinate academies should 
 be careful, lest they lead the youthful mind astray. 
 I have seen no good productions of any of the pupils, 
 and I am now convinced, that making enormous 
 and elaborate finished drawings in chalk, is little 
 better than a waste of time. The Academy have 
 few paintings, except by Giotto, Cimabue, Albert 
 Durer, Perugino, and Raphael's early works, all 
 of which seem to be painted by receipt. 
 
 In the museum, with which the academy is con- 
 nected, are some antiquities, chiefly such as were 
 found in the neighbourhood of Perugia : many 
 of them are beautiful and curious, consisting prin- 
 cipally of busts, sarcophagi, friezes, vases, terra 
 cottas, &c. In the Gabinetto Anatomico, which is 
 also connected with the academy, there are many 
 anatomical preparations in wax. Some heads with 
 the brain taken out, are yet accompanied with ver- 
 milion coloured lips and smiling faces : and here I 
 
 CASA DELLA PENNA. ANCIENT ARCH. ^6l 
 
 may mention, that we have seen even greater ab- 
 surdities in the celebrated Gabinetto Fisico in Flo- 
 rence, especially in the apartment of the gravid 
 uterus, one of the most indelicate exhibitions ever 
 opened to the public eye. There is no reason why 
 these preparations should be made disgusting to 
 the sight, yet consistency with nature should cer- 
 tainly be observed. 
 
 In the Casa della Penna there are many paint- 
 ings, but few of any merit ; yet it is a collection 
 one would not wish to pass. A picture by Sub- 
 tcrmans, and one by Annibal Caracci, with some 
 sketches by Salvator Rosa, are the most deserving 
 of notice. The landscapes, imitations of Gaspar 
 Poussin, are all indifferent. We were greatly pleas- 
 ed with the design of an Enchant3ient by Salvator 
 Rosa, painted on a black ground. A magician is 
 represented holding a warrior's sword of tremend- 
 ous size, over a variety of channs and spells. The 
 warrior behind appears with anxious eye looking 
 towards his sword, and a figure, indicating to what 
 it will lead, rises in the mysterious scene with a 
 flaming crown : a multitude of devils and strange 
 foi-ms, the usual accompaniments of enchantment, 
 are indistinctly seen hovering in the gloom. 
 
 The most remarkable specimen of architecture 
 in Perugia is the ancient arch of Augustus, in 
 which strength and elegance are most agreeably 
 united. No cement has been used in its con- 
 
262 
 
 PETRIFYING SPRING. 
 
 PETRIFYING SPRING. 
 
 263 
 
 struction, yet it appears as if it could still defy 
 the elements for many centuries. The Palazzo 
 Publico is striking in effect. The Porta de San 
 Pietro is extremely beautiful, and the fountain 
 near the cathedral is chaste in the design : indeed, 
 the Italians always shew considerable taste in their 
 wells and fountains, enriching them with some 
 appropriate ornament. 
 
 Perugia abounds in the finest subjects for the 
 pencil ; and the man of taste must be greatly 
 charmed with the inimitable views, especially from 
 the Piazza della Prome, and the ancient ramparts. 
 He may also find innumerable works of art in 
 many of the palaces, churches, and private houses, 
 that mi<^ht well reward the trouble of searching 
 
 them out. 
 
 A learned gentleman, who has lately visited the 
 celebrated baths of San Phillipo, about fifty miles 
 from this ancient city, has shewn us several casts, 
 which are remarkable for their sharpness and pe- 
 culiar beauty. 
 
 They are produced by a petrifying spring, which 
 is applied to the formation of cameos and various 
 ornaments. Our friend, imagining the process 
 might be interesting, has obligingly favoured us 
 with an account of it, which is as follows. 
 
 The spring issues from Monte Amiato, about four 
 miles from Kadicofani, on the route between that 
 town and Sienna, and is situate about half a 
 
 12 
 
 mile from the road side. The water is in such 
 quantity as to form a large torrent, and so hot 
 that it cannot be borne by the human body at 
 its source. Very anciently baths were established 
 there, and are still kept up. They are called 
 Bagni de San Filippo. The water is perfectly 
 transparent, but holds in solution a considerable 
 quantity of sulphur, and an immense portion of 
 carbonate of lime. Soon after the escape from the 
 mountain, the sulphur is first deposited, and then 
 the earthy matter, in such quantity as to have 
 formed itself into a small mountain some hundred 
 feet high, and nearly half a mile in length. This 
 constant deposition of fresh earth is continually 
 changing the place of the spring, and gradually 
 approaching it nearer its source in the mountain. 
 Of this petrifying water, advantage has been taken 
 to form casts, somewhat in the following manner. 
 An impression of the medal is first taken in sulphur, 
 or, what is still better, on glass, and the impressed 
 figure or mould is then placed in the course of the 
 stream to receive the deposited matter. As, how- 
 ever, it is desirable that the dissolved earth be de- 
 posited in a certain state and condition, a series 
 of three or four pits are sunk in the earth at a 
 short distance from each other, and communicating 
 by means of tubes. In these pits, deposition to a 
 certain extent is successively made, till the water 
 at length arrives at the last stage, refined, as it were, 
 
 i^M^M^^Si^^ 
 
264. 
 
 PETRIFYING SPRING. 
 
 and charged only with its desired portion of earth. 
 It is then made to fall through a tube on two pieces 
 of board, two or three inches broad, placed crosswise 
 thus +, the effect of which is to break the stream, 
 and throw off the water in all directions. Be- 
 neath this crossed piece is another similar one, and 
 a third still lower, but all of them crossing in dif- 
 ferent directions, the more completely to break 
 and disperse the column of water that falls on them. 
 These crossed pieces are then surrounded by frame 
 work of wood, of a pyramidal form, within which are 
 arranged the impressed sulphurs or glass, previous- 
 ly touched with a solution of soap to smooth the 
 surface, and facilitate the subsequent separation of 
 the cast. They are disposed all round the pyra- 
 midal case, and placed somewhat obliquely for- 
 ward, opposite the several series of crossed sticks, 
 and at the distance of about a foot from their ex- 
 tremities. In this position, they receive a continual 
 and equable dash of the water, which deposits its 
 earthy matter on the impressed surface, and which 
 matter takes with the greatest fineness and precision 
 the figure of the body on which it consolidates. The 
 cast, thus obtained, may be made of any thickness, 
 but in small figures; it is commonly from one-eighth 
 to one-fourth of an inch. The time employed 
 in its formation is ten or twelve days. The 
 pyramidal frame is of use, not only for disposing 
 the moulds in the manner described, but also for 
 
 PETRIFYING SPRING. 
 
 Q65 
 
 guarding against all currents of air which might 
 disturb the process of deposition ; it is not design- 
 ed, however, to exclude the entrance of air. 
 
 This manufactory was established by the late 
 Peter Leopold, who so magnificently patronized 
 all the sciences and arts. It is at present under 
 the direction of Signor Pagliari, an artist of great 
 ingenuity, who readily explains and exhibits all 
 the stages of his process. His charges are in pro- 
 portion to the dimensions of the cast. 
 
 Tor a cast of 1 inch diameter, 1 Paul, or 5d. English. 
 
 2^ 
 
 1* 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 one foot 6 inches 
 
 30 
 
 By an ingenious variation of the process, he is 
 able to form a cast of differently coloured marbles, 
 so as to present a white figure in relief on a blue 
 or yellow ground, and vice versa. This is done by 
 first forming the cast white as usual, then separat- 
 ing from it all the parts not projecting in re- 
 lief, and exposing it as before to a second pro- 
 cess of deposition, from water previously coloured. 
 The coloured carbonate attaches itself to the white 
 figure, and this forms a ground on the stratum of 
 coloured matter on which the white matter rests. 
 
266 
 
 PETRIFYING SPRING. 
 
 but in a manner so as to form one solid and con- 
 tinuous substance. 
 
 I know not whether the petrifying springs in 
 Scotland or in Derbyshire are sufficiently strono* 
 to produce casts in so short a time as ten or twelve 
 days, but I should think the experiment might 
 be tried with probable success, in small and delicate 
 gameos, which would not require any great degree 
 of thickness. 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Journey to Rome — Foligna.-^Temple oj Clitumnus.^Spoleto, 
 
 — Term — Narni — Otricolu — Civita Castellana Nepi. 
 
 Arrival at Rome, 
 
 Soon after leaving Perugia we crossed the Tiber, 
 flowing with its numberless associations, and excit- 
 ing that feeling of respect which is due even to 
 inanimate objects so famed in history. While our 
 anxious eye hurriedly examined its magnitude, its 
 banks, and scenery, we could not help exclaiming : 
 Can this be the yellow Tiber of the Augustan age ? 
 this the Tiber that still laves the walls of the eter- 
 nal city ? How different the reality from the pic- 
 tures of imagination, which, with all our know- 
 ledge of its character, still delights in amplifying 
 it into a majestic flood ! 
 
 This famous river, near Perugia, reminded us of 
 the Clyde in Scotland, though perhaps not quite 
 so large. The water, of a whitish colour, leaves a 
 considerable deposite on the ve^etaiion on its banks, 
 occasionally producing singular petiifactiuns. We 
 passed Assisi on our left, and admired its towers. 
 
 i^^g^UifgjUfUtgMM 
 
268 
 
 FOLIGNA. 
 
 cupolas and arcades, from the splendid edifice of 
 the Madonna degli Angeli, in the plain below. 
 
 The women of the country wear the pan no, a 
 piece of cloth folded on their head, and han<nn(r 
 down the back. Crosses and chapels increased in 
 number as we advanced. These crosses are ""ene- 
 rally decorated with a hammer, a spear, a pair of 
 pincers, and a sponge ; and occasionally a cock sur- 
 mounts the whole. Near Spetto we observed a 
 curious mode of harrowing ; the harrow was an 
 oblong piece of wood, on which a man stood, hold- 
 ing by the tails of oxen, and kept switching them 
 along. In every implement of husbandry the Ita- 
 lians are much behind, and have advanced but little 
 since the days of Virgil. 
 
 Foligna is seated in a plain, surrounded by moun- 
 tains at a moderate distance. In a convent there 
 we saw an unfinished picture of a Holy Family 
 by Raphael, carefully outlined in bistre on a tanned 
 leather-coloured ground, and evidently designed 
 according to some ideal rule of beauty; circles were 
 described for the cheeks and nose of the Infant 
 Jesus, and the same fonns mi<ijht be traced through- 
 out the picture. In this painting Raphael has 
 finished carefully as he advanced. Foligna, in for- 
 mer days, could boast of the famous picture of the 
 Madonna della Foligna, by Raphael, now in 
 the Vatican at Rome, and still contains some curi- 
 
 TEMPLE OF CLITUMNUS. 
 
 S69 
 
 pus relics of ancient art, particularly a silver statue 
 as large as life, executed with considerable taste. 
 
 As we advanced on our journey, the towers and 
 steeples of Trivi appeared singular and striking, by 
 the contrast of a stormy sky. Clouds hung heavily 
 on the dark and dismal hills ; and strange and 
 gloomy appearances amused the eye with marvel- 
 lous opposition of colour ; white visionary grey, 
 threatening fiery reds, and brassy tones, stared 
 through dusky blue, and blackish hues of purple ; 
 while the pale and sickly-coloured buildings ap- 
 peared against illumined showers. 
 
 Nothing can be more provoking than continued 
 rain while travelling amidst the lovely scenes of 
 Italy ; yet such was now our lot. We could not, 
 however, pass the temple of Clitumnus, though it 
 was pouring an Italian shower. * 
 
 This pretty little gem stands on the acclivity of 
 a bank overlooking its crystal waters, which have 
 their source at the distance of some hundred yards 
 towards Spoleto. The temple, fronting the river, 
 is of an oblong form, in the Corinthian order. 
 Four columns support the pediment, the shafts of 
 which are covered in spiral lines and in forms, to 
 represent the scales of fish -, the bases, too, are rich- 
 
 • The showers in Italy are generally very violent, even 
 when they are of long duration. 
 
270 
 
 TEMPLE OF CLITiniNUS. 
 
 SPOLETO. 
 
 S71 
 
 ly sculptured. The tympanum contains no figures, 
 but the ornament and cornice are well detailed. 
 Within the building is a chapel, the walls of which 
 are covered with many hundred names, but we 
 saw none which we could recognize as British. 
 Can it be, that this classical temple is seldom visit- 
 ed by our countrymen, though celebrated by 
 Dryden and Addison? To future travellers 
 from Britain, it will surely be rendered interesting, 
 by the beautiful lines of Lord Byron, flowing as 
 sweetly as the lovely stream which they describe. 
 
 " But thou, Clitumnus ! in thy sweetest wave 
 Oi the most living crystal, that was e*er 
 The haunt of river nymph, to gaze, and lave 
 Her limbs where nothing hid them, thou dost rear 
 Thy grassy banks whereon the milk white steer 
 Grazes ; the purest God of gentle waters ! 
 The mo>t serene of aspect, and most clear ; 
 
 Surely that stream was unprofaned by slaughters 
 
 A mirror and a bath for Beauty's youngest daughters ! 
 
 ** And on thy happy shore a temple still, 
 Of small and delicate proportion, keeps 
 Upon a mild declivity of hill, 
 Its memory of thee ; beneath it sweeps 
 Thy current's calmness; oft from out it leaps 
 The finny darter with the glittering scales, 
 Who dwells and revels in the glassy deeps; 
 While, chance, some scatter'd water-lily sails 
 Down where the shallower wave still tells it babbling 
 
 Spoleto, one of the most picturesque towns that 
 we have seen in Italy, is built on the slope of a 
 hill, and extends to the plain below. Its ma^ni- 
 ficent castle, partly built on Cyclopean walls, crowns 
 the whole, and, as seen with the lofty aqueduct 
 which stretches from hill to hill, fonns a perfect 
 and most pleasing landscape. On our arrival there 
 several workmen were excavating, and had just dis- 
 covered some arches of an ancient Roman brido-e. 
 below the bed of the present river. Several other 
 remains of great antiquity are to be seen in the 
 immediate neighbourhood, especially of the temples 
 of Concord and Mars, * the former being remark- 
 able for its finely proportioned doors, exquisitely 
 caiTed in the richest ornament. Twelve of the 
 ancient Corinthian columns are within the church, 
 (of the Crucifix,) which seems to be built on the 
 foundation of the ancient ruins. Our stay at Spo- 
 leto was very short, which we regretted much, as 
 there are few towns which so well deserve investi- 
 gation. The painter, especially, must be channed 
 with the variety of excellent material which it af- 
 fords for classic composition. 
 
 The Strada Ilomana winds through very pleas- 
 ing scenery of varied hills, woody banks, and 
 
 tales." 
 
 * We did not see the Temple of Mars, finding it io be at 
 s«me distance from the town. 
 
 4th Canto, Childe Harold. 
 
 iateajaii»i^«ww;i^afcMibEJfctK5i.jaA-fc.^^ «^ 
 
27^ 
 
 TERNI. FALL OF VELINO. 
 
 groves, and through such scenery we travel with 
 little intermission all the way to Terni. 
 
 Temi is seated in a plain, and almost surround- 
 ed by interesting mountains. Those especially 
 towards the celebrated fall are extremely grand. 
 When we arrived in the town, two carts full of 
 robbers were taken to the prison. These wretches 
 were for a considerable time the terror of the 
 country, and rendered it extremely dangerous to 
 travellers. Terni may be said to be a pretty 
 town, but the appearance of poverty and misery 
 destroys our enjoyment of its beauty ; the houses 
 and streets are generally good ; indeed, surprisingly 
 so, considering the wretchedness of the beings that 
 inhabit them ; — an observation which may apply to 
 almost all the towns in Italy. If the palaces are 
 uncomfortable and dirty, it can hardly be expect- 
 ed that the dwellings of the poor can be in good 
 condition. 
 
 The remains of antiquity at Terni are trifling. 
 Part of an amphitheatre, faced with reticulated 
 stone and a vitrified substance alternately, is all 
 that was pointed out to us, except a small church, 
 which is called the ancient Temple of the Sun. 
 Paintings there are none. Even the cathedral 
 offers nothing except a Mary Magdalene. 
 
 The great attraction in this romantic country is 
 the noble fall of Velino. As we advanced to it, we 
 found the scenery bold and majestic, approaching, 
 
 FALL OF VELINO. 
 
 273 
 
 in many parts, to the sublime. The mist from the 
 tremendous fall was seen from afar, obscuring the 
 rocks and wooded banks. Our road wound around 
 perilous precipices, presenting the most fascinating 
 scenes, and all the fantastic wildness of nature. Af- 
 ter we had crossed the shoulder of a lofty mountain, 
 of bare and precipitous rock, the romantic village 
 of Papignina appeared on the summit of a hill, 
 uniting in the finest manner with the adjacent 
 objects, and forming an unrivalled subject for the 
 pencil. The feelings, I should think, with which 
 a painter would delineate and study such a perfect 
 picture, might be envied by the most enlightened 
 man of taste. Beyond this admirable scene, we dis- 
 tinctly heard the thundering Velino, though it was 
 still invisible. Imagination then began to work, 
 and formed innumerable awful pictures ; — but the 
 striking scene itself soon dismissed them, and pre- 
 sented one more terrific than any which the fancy 
 drew. The stunning sound, the mist, uncertain- 
 ty, and tremendous depth, bewildered the senses 
 for a time, and the eye had little rest from the im- 
 petuous and hurrying waters to search into the 
 mysterious and whitened gulf, which presented, 
 through a cloud of spray, the apparitions, as it were, 
 of rocks and overhanging wood. The wind, how- 
 ever, would sometimes remove for an instant this 
 misty veil, and display such a ^cene of havoc as ap- 
 palled the soul. But hear Lord Byron : 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 s 
 
M 
 
 274 
 
 ALL OF VEH2^0. 
 
 " The roar of waters! from the headlong height 
 Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice ; 
 The fall of waters ! rapid as the light 
 The flashing mass foams shaking the abyss ; 
 The hell of waters ! where they howl and hiss, 
 And boil in endless torture ; while the sweat 
 Of their great agony, wrung out from this 
 Their Phlegethon, curls round the rocks of jet, 
 That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set, 
 
 <« 
 
 And mounts in spray the skies ; and thence again 
 Returns in an unceasing shower, which round, 
 With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain. 
 Is an eternal April to the ground. 
 Making it all one emerald ! how profound 
 The gulf! and how the giant element 
 From rock to rock leaps with delirious bound. 
 Crushing the cliffs, which, downward worn and rent 
 With his fierce footsteps, yields in chasms a fearful 
 vent! 
 
 '* To the broad column which rolls on, and shews 
 More like the fountain of an infant sea. 
 Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes 
 Of a new world, than only thus to be 
 Parent of rivers, which flow gushingly. 
 With many windings thro* the vale : Look back ! 
 Lo ! where it comes like an eternity ! 
 As if to sweep down ail things in its track 
 Charming the eye with dread,— a matchless cataract 
 
 «« 
 
 Horribly beautiful ! but on the verge. 
 From side to side, beneath the glittering morn. 
 An Iris sits, amids^t the infernal surge. 
 Like Hope upon a death-bed, and, unworn 
 
 NARNI. ^75 
 
 Its steady dyes, while all around is torn 
 
 By the distracted waters, bears serene 
 
 Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn; 
 
 Resembling, *mid the torture of the scene. 
 
 Love watchmg madness with unalterable mien." 
 
 From Terni to Narni, we travelled through a 
 vale of pleasing appearance, but not so highly'cul. 
 tivated as those of Tuscany. The ruins of an an- 
 cient bridge of Augustus presented to us a noble 
 specimen of Roman architecture. One arch re- 
 mains entire, and the massive ruins of something 
 like two others of different dimensions (nearly 
 twice the breadth) grace the varying Nera. 
 
 The beauties of Italian landscape crowded fast 
 upon us. The town of Narni offers a succes- 
 sion of the finest compositions. Its ancient walls, 
 towers, and splendid gate, are most attractive fea- 
 tures, and we could not pass them without an ex- 
 clamation of delight. Narni, seated on a hill, 
 commands the whole plain towards Terni, and the 
 picturesque mountains which teminate the view. 
 When we pass Narni, and descend the hill, the 
 finely wooded banks, precipices, and distant moun- 
 tains, appear to great advantage. The town it- 
 self, crowning a lofty ridge, came finely into view, 
 and seemed to have been placed, as if on purpose 
 to complete the picture. The wooded hills of 
 Italy are different from those in Britain. The 
 richness and fulness of the clustering chesnut, and 
 
 itiks'jI^fliafc'Aiii'ik'iiAiai^-"---^"'--*'--'^"*- *- - 
 
276 
 
 OTRICOLI. 
 
 APPROACH TO CIVITA CASTELLANA. 
 
 277 
 
 the gi'ey and sober olive, afford a splendid mass 
 of foliage, often extremely broad and grand, and al- 
 ways pleasing by the varied and opposing colours. 
 We soon exchanged the woody hills for banks of 
 furze, and broken grounds of the richest tones of 
 vegetation, diversified with grey rock gravel, and 
 brilliant hues of soil. The brown and yellow 
 earths especially harmonized with the chastened 
 greens and greys of plants and pendent brushwood. 
 The country, after we leave Nami, assumes an 
 extensive and undulating character. Luxuriant 
 olive woods cover hill and dale, giving a universal 
 richness to the whole ; and this, with the excep- 
 tion of some defiles of gravel, is the general ex- 
 pression of our journey to Otricoh*. 
 
 That curious and ancient looking town stands on 
 the ridge of a hill of no great elevation, and is, with 
 its crumbling walls, extremely picturesque, giving 
 a peculiar value to the plain which stretches to the 
 horizon. The windings of the Tiber sweep and 
 curve in the most delightful manner, and always 
 come in opportunely, where a little diversity seemed 
 to be required. In the town, near the principal 
 church, we observed several fragments of antiqui- 
 ty ; an altar, two capitals of Corinthian columns, 
 frieze and inscriptions in the walls. These may 
 have been brought from ancient Otriculum, the 
 site of which is at no great distance from the pre- 
 sent town. At Otricoli the limestone is compact 
 
 and pure, and, what to us appeared extremely cu- 
 rious, rests upon the debris of the same material ; 
 the solid lime being about six feet in thickness. 
 Indeed, the country is altogether singular ; one 
 great plain rises above another, and, on looking 
 across the vale, one could not suppose there were 
 any lofty banks or precipices ; none being percep- 
 tible to the eye as it passes over the plain. Yet 
 we met with very deep ravines, with water flow- 
 ing at the bottom. Descending from the higher 
 into the lower plain, the same appearance of solid 
 lime above the debris occurred. The peasantry 
 wore frocks as with us in England. Flocks of 
 wild goats were numerous, and the shepherds' dogs 
 were always white. Crosses, marking 'scenes of 
 murder, occasionally appeared, and the caverns, 
 and some ruins upon the road, seemed fit lurking- 
 places for banditti. 
 
 Before we reached the castle of Borghetto, the 
 sky frowned upon us. Soracte was black and dis- 
 mal, and the blast began to bend the olive trees. 
 It was evening before we reached the romantic 
 town of Civita Castellana ; but such an evening of 
 liorhtninjr and thunder we had never witnessed. 
 Clouds of the strangest form and colours gather- 
 ed and opposed each other, and hastened into un- 
 certainty. Pale grey vapours flew swiftly across 
 the most solemn dark and purple hues, clustering 
 
 VOL. I. t 
 
278 
 
 CIVITA CASTELLANA. 
 
 together, and hancring with ragged edges from hea- 
 ven to earth ! The war of the elements was pro- 
 claimed ! the silver lightning flew, and the thun- 
 der rolled; the wind and the torrents strove 
 against the subdued appearances of nature. AH 
 was light, all was dark, with incredible quick- 
 ness of alternation ! The towers of Civita Cas- 
 telJana now looked sad and gloomy, and now ap- 
 peared in the utmost brilliancy of light amidst the 
 growling of the storm. When we reached the 
 bridge which leads over the tremendous ravine to 
 the city, we almost believed that we were enterino- 
 an enchanted town. 
 
 And, truly, whether in a storm, or under a 
 serene and azure sky, Civita Castellana must ap- 
 pear a bewitching place, abounding in eveiy at- 
 tribute of the grand, the beautiful, or the pic- 
 turesque. Nothing, in short, is wanting that the 
 pencil might demand to produce the finest pic- 
 tures. The most romantic banks, rocks, wood, 
 and waterfalls, are crowned with buildings, which 
 would have charmed a Niccolo Poussin, or a Salva* 
 tor Rosa. We have met with finer towns ; but 
 certainly none so full of charms to a painter's eye ! 
 On the following morning, we had a view of the 
 country from the fortress, which itself is a no- 
 ble object, especially from the bridge. Monte 
 Soracte appeared to great advantage, and com- 
 
 CIVITA CASTELLANA. 
 
 279 
 
 pleted many compositions, which had the fortifi- 
 cations for the commanding feature. In its gene- 
 ral aspect, the country appears a rich and cultivated 
 plain ; but, close upon the town, the deep ravines 
 wind and twist about in various directions, and seem 
 more like enormous fissures or awful rents in the sur- 
 face of the earth, than tracks worn by the action of 
 the waters. The whole country is volcanic, the rocks 
 are composed of tuffa, and with this material much 
 of the fortress is constructed. It is not hard like 
 stone, but tough, yet sufficiently adapted to with- 
 stand the weather ; black cinders appear in the 
 grey ashes, and give a kind of mottled character to 
 the crumbling walls. 
 
 In the town, many of the buildings have an 
 appearance of great antiquity. The arch was the 
 favourite form with the ancient Romans, and their 
 windows are always in good proportion, seldom 
 without some finishing or framing round them. 
 In the superstructures upon the old foundations 
 were many fragments of ancient times,— capitals, 
 parts of columns, and friezes,— but none of them 
 of perfect workmanship. Civita Castellana has a 
 greater air of antiquity than any town which we 
 have yet visited ; but whether it be the ancient 
 capital of the Veientes, which helped to form the 
 nucleus of the Roman power, will still be a sub- 
 ject of dispute and doubt. The Appian way 
 passed near the fortification ; but the modem im- 
 
280 
 
 NEPI. 
 
 provements have intruded so much upon it, that 
 it was not perceptible. We found nothing in the 
 Cathedral worthy of notice. The floor was paved 
 with serpentine, porphyry, and otlier stones of red 
 and grey. It contains no pictures of any note ; 
 a St Jerome was the best, but certainly not en- 
 titled to commendation. I may, however, men- 
 tion a figure of God the Father, which w^as so 
 placed in a niche, as to allow a light to fall upon it 
 from above and behind, producing a rich reflected 
 light on the statue. The effect was good, but the 
 statue bad. 
 
 The country from Civita Castellana to Nepi is 
 by no means picturesque ; deep ravines, however, 
 often occurred, and always excited wonder, as we 
 could not trace their windings through the distant 
 plain. 
 
 The walls of Nepi are high and grand, but 
 mouldering to decay. Towers, with their project- 
 ing bartisans, appear above them, and give an im- 
 posing look to the town, which serves to increase 
 our dissatisfaction when we see the mean ap- 
 pearance of the interior. Near the fountain in 
 the square we observed some fragments of marble 
 busts and statues ; indeed, the nearer we approach 
 to Rome, these sad relics of ancient times become 
 more common. Scarcely a town or a village is 
 without some relic of former splendour, either built 
 into the walls as common stones, or scattered in 
 
 first view of ST PETER'S DOME. 281 
 
 the fields. Nepi, like Civita Castellana, stands on 
 banks of tuflTa. Italian pines and caverns run 
 along the slopes, and the wizard-looking stream 
 murmurs far below. 
 
 Towards Baccano, the aspect of the country is 
 nearly the same as in the approach to Nepi, but 
 at Monte Rosa, it begins to appear somewhat 
 bleak; the trees retire, and there is but little 
 cultivation. The fields seem neglected, and the 
 road IS bad. The lake of Monte Rosa affords no 
 picture, nor has it any character save that of a 
 volcano's mouth. Our road, cut through volcanic 
 ashes, is singular in appearance. The ashes gene- 
 rally lie in strata of parallel or waving lines, some- 
 times fine, and sometimes coarse, and the cinders 
 which are found detached are black or grey, and 
 full of crystals of a whitish colour. 
 
 From the top of Monte Lungo, the dome of 
 Saint Peter's just appears,— the boast of the mistress 
 of the world ! Who could look on such an object 
 without emotion ? A few moments snatched it from 
 our sight. We descended the hill, and traversed a 
 melancholy country, suggesting ages of darkness, 
 contrasted with splendid times. The thousand hills 
 of ashes beyond record, and the fragments of art, 
 and foundation walls of Roman grandeur, kept up 
 a continual interest, till we reached the ancient city. 
 But I must lead you regularly forward to her gates. 
 The russet hills of the Campagna Roman^l are 
 
^82 
 
 APPROACH TO ROME. 
 
 like the waves of a swelling ocean ; few trees ap- 
 pear, and rarely an inhabited house. The eye 
 has no resting-place, unless on some ruined tower, 
 or deserted dwelling. Malaria lurks on hill and 
 plain, as the sickly complexion of the peasantry too 
 plainly tells. Oxen alone are used for agricultural 
 purposes, and these were grey and bulky, with tre- 
 mendous horns, which often came in contact in the 
 yoke. Crosses, indicating where murder had been 
 committed, appeared upon the edges of the road, 
 and fragments of human beings upon gibbets wav- 
 ing in the wind. 
 
 Can the frequency of these crosses arise from 
 the circumstance of their being erected on the 
 spot, which, in another country, would not be in- 
 dicated by any such memorial ? or is the num- 
 ber of murders to be ascribed to the popular be- 
 lief in the efficacy of ecclesiastical absolution ? to a 
 temper prone to extreme revenge ? to the uncer- 
 tainty of obtaining legal redress of injury ? or in 
 some degree to the united co-operation of all these 
 causes ? 
 
 Between the sixth and seventh mile stone, the 
 domes and cupolas of Rome, with the winding 
 Tiber, Tivoli, and the Sabine hills, appear over 
 the dejected country. We passed the sculptured 
 tomb of Vibius, called the Tomb of Nero. Its 
 fate is fast approaching; merely balanced on its 
 foundation, — a few rude storms, and then its day is 
 
 ENTRANCE INTO ROME. 
 
 ^83 
 
 over. No carriages appeared upon the road, no 
 bustle of any kind ! A universal melancholy si- 
 lence prevailed, even within a mile or two of Rome. 
 When we crossed the Ponte Mole, the Tiber ap- 
 peared broad and deep, and much discoloured. 
 We soon drove through the Porta del Popolo, and 
 entered the imperial city ; " mother of arts, as 
 once of arms !" 
 
PANORAMIC VIEW FROxM THE CAPITOL. S85 
 
 LETTER XXTTI 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Panorama from the Top of the CapiloL — Sketch of the in- 
 terior of St Peter s. 
 
 We stood on the tower of the Capitol, and sur- 
 veyed the remains of that city, and those trophies 
 which emperors and kings, through many ages 
 conquerors of the world, bad looked upon with ex- 
 ultation, and accounted substantial monuments of 
 their »dory. The colossal aqueducts bestrode the 
 Campagna ; the Appian way was shaded by the 
 tombs of the most illustrious Romans, — tombs now 
 following fast into oblivion the relics of their 
 proud possessors ; — those of Caius Cestus and 
 Cecilia Metella, being all that are now distin- 
 guishable. We surveyed the ancient walls of the 
 Eternal City, built to protect its infancy against the 
 incursions of restless tribes, but insufficient to de- 
 fend its age against its Gothic conquerors : — the 
 triumphal arches of Titus, Severus, and Constantine, 
 built at a time when the arms of barbarians could 
 never be expected to overtake those favourites of 
 conquest, and to spoil, in their turn, the spoilers of 
 
 mankind. We beheld the temples of heathen wor- 
 ship, now, with the worship itself, for ever fallen, 
 though the spirit of pagan superstition seems still 
 to linger among their ruins. Jupiter Tonans, di- 
 vested of his attributes, has lonor since resiiined his 
 thunders to the pontiffs of the Vatican. The 
 palace of the Ctesars is scarcely discoverable by 
 its paltry remains, wild weeds of a summer's growth 
 overshadowing all that exists of structures intended 
 for interminable duration. We threw our eyes 
 over the ancient temples of Romulus and Remus, 
 the founders of the monarchy ; the temples of the 
 Sun and of Peace, — the latter only suggesting its 
 opposite, and serving to remind us of ancient 
 Rome, as a nursery of warriors. We reverted to 
 the Capitol, still crowning and commanding the 
 city of conquest, and to the curious excavations 
 below, again bringing into view vestiges of ancient 
 grandeur, of which history itself seems to have 
 taken no account. Chief of all, our attention 
 
 was rivetted by the Coliseum and the Forum ; 
 
 the former often wet with the blood of gladia- 
 tors, — the latter, in the ear of fancy, still echoing 
 to the eloquence of a Brutus or a Cicero. The 
 Coliseum, perhaps, more than any of the anti- 
 quities, realizes the visions of the student of an- 
 cient history. Its vast size, its unnatural destina- 
 tion, its measured and tardy decay, having already 
 outlived the lapse of many centuries, proclaim at 
 
 IS rifiiiUlMiJiiniihfrtJ 
 
 ■Mfc 
 
286 
 
 PANORAMA FROM THE CAPITOL. 
 
 H 
 
 once, that the earthly schemes of man, so far be- 
 yond the term of his mortal existence, are short- 
 lived, mean, and trifling, compared to his eternal 
 destination. To the right of the Tiber, which 
 takes its course along the foot of the Aventine 
 Mount, we remark the Ripa Grande, or Quay, 
 circumscribing its range to the south ; the river it- 
 . self, — though choaked and shallowed by the debris 
 of its banks, and the crumbling edifices of successive 
 centuries, — broad, deep, and unruffled by the ruins 
 which it conceals, is still the yellow muddy Tiber 
 of the Augustan age, finely corresponding in tone 
 and colour with the dusky ruins that nod upon its 
 shores. The Tiber is lost for a time to the eye, 
 among the various buildings, and again appears in 
 view, taking its course in winding: lines of li '•ht 
 across the wide waste that stretches off" towards the 
 sea. The hill of Janiculum, the palaces, the villas 
 of Pamphili, Corsini, and the numerous structures 
 of modern Rome, its domes, monasteries, churches, 
 and palaces, successively occupy the attention, till 
 we come to the Tarpeian Rock itself, now scarcely 
 formidable, being almost lost in rubbish. 
 
 Then turning towards the west, the eye rests on 
 the dome of St Peter's, and the Vatican, with all its 
 far-famed treasures of sculpture and painting. The 
 mighty building of St Peter's, the first and most 
 magnificent temple in the world, seems sovereign 
 of modem Rome, (as the Coliseum does of the an- 
 
 PANORAMA FROM THE CAPITOL. 287 
 
 cient city,) surrounded by his vassals at humble dis- 
 tance, conformable to the inferiority of their rank 
 and pretensions. All seems, however, to be pro- 
 vided for the purposes of a worship, meant to cap- 
 tivate the senses by its external splendour and 
 beauty, until the very object of religion, the culti- 
 vation of the Christian virtues, which are meek and 
 humble, is forgotten in the magnificence of a priest- 
 hood of princes; combining the splendour and luxu- 
 ries of life with their preparations forbidding itadieu. 
 What a contrast to the Coliseum, which, on the 
 other hand, speaks of heathen times, and feelings 
 scarcely human, when a whole people used to assem- 
 ble, to be delighted with the suffering, the groaning, 
 and destruction of unfortunate fellow mortals, select- 
 ed to shed each other's blood, without any motive 
 of enmity or revenge, but for the sole purpose of 
 gratifying the taste of an unthinking and fero- 
 cious populace ! Such scenes might nerve the arm, 
 and steel the heart for purposes of conquest i 
 but, as certainly they annihilated the finer senti'- 
 ments of the soul, and degraded the lords of the 
 creation into fit companions or rivals to the ty- 
 rants of the forest. 
 
 From St Peter's we were naturally led to the 
 Mausoleum of Hadrian and the Pantheon of Agrip- 
 pa, together with the great works of a succession 
 of ages ;-which, though diffl-ring in date, seem 
 to the eye of a modern beholder of almost equal 
 
^88 
 
 PANORAMA FROM THE CAPITOL. 
 
 antiquity, and impress him with almost equal vene- 
 ration and awe. From this spot, too, may be seen 
 the columns of Antonine and Trajan. In the 
 Forum of the latter emperor, excavations disclose 
 the pristine city, far beneath the level of its modern, 
 though still ancient successor. 
 
 The Quirinal Palace of the Pope, to the north, 
 combines with Soracte and the snowy Apennines, 
 and presents to the eye the most interesting and 
 ever-varying pictures. Lastly, and immediately 
 below the spectator, the eye rests on the Museum 
 of the Capitol, designed by Michael Angelo, and 
 filled with works of the chisel, during every age of 
 the progress of the rival yet sister arts of architecture 
 and statuary, from the bronze wolf, said to have been 
 struck by lightning at the death of Caesar, to the 
 modern ornaments of the Museum. After exam- 
 ining the detail of this most astonishing scene, we 
 cast our eyes generally over the whole, and rested 
 them for a while on those permanent features, the 
 Alban Mount, with ancient Tusculum on its bo- 
 som, Tivoli sparkling in the sun, and the seven 
 hills of ancient Rome. All this it were vain to 
 attempt to describe, and still more the emotion 
 which it excites ! for in such a scene, comprehend • 
 ing not local space only, but even an expanse of 
 ages, there is that, to use a scriptural expression, 
 " in the mind of the spirit, which cannot be ut- 
 tered." 
 
 INTERIOR OF ST PETEr's. 
 
 S89 
 
 I shall now lead you to St Peter's, and endea- 
 vour to represent the interior of that noble temple. 
 The view is perhaps the best near the bronze statue 
 of St Peter ;* and immediately beside it the survey 
 of the interior is magnificent and imposing. We saw 
 It under the most striking effect, adorned with 
 the beams of the sun, playing upon its gorgeous 
 magnificence,— the noble dome, with its various 
 colossal paintings in Mosaic, of angels, prophets, 
 and apostles, the latter in the spandrils at least 
 twenty.five feet in height. In the transept of the 
 cross are seen the noble sepulchral monuments 
 of the Popes by Canova, Bernini, Michael An- 
 gelo, and others ; splendid pictures in Mosaic, 
 designed by Raphael, Domenichino, Guercino,' 
 and Guido, scarcely distinguishable from the 
 finest paintings ; grand columns of marble, por- 
 phyiy, and granite, the gigantic supporters of 
 the dome, each of which, were it hollow, would 
 be sufficient to contain hundreds of people. Nu- 
 merous colossal statues of saints, in niches, at 
 least thirteen feet high ; the various and predous 
 stones which impannel the walls of the whole 
 building; the richness of the ornamented roof; 
 the galleries from which the relics are occasion- 
 
 * The .tatue of Jupiter Capitoluius, the supreme divinity 
 of ancient Rome, furnished the material for this statue of Pe. 
 ter, the presiding saint of the modern capital. 
 
 VOL. I. T 
 
^90 
 
 INTERIOR OF ST PETER's. 
 
 INTERIOR OF ST PETER's. 
 
 591 
 
 ally exhibited ; the great altar of Corinthian brass 
 by Bernini, (the height of which is not less than 
 the highest palace in Rome,) with its twisted co- 
 lumns wreathed with olive ; the hundred brazen 
 lamps continually burning, and surrounding the 
 tomb of the patron saint, with its gilded bronze 
 gate, enriched to the utmost with various orna- 
 ments ; the massive silver lamps ; the hangings of 
 crimson silk ; the chair of St Peter, supported by 
 two popes, statues of great magnitude ; the pave- 
 ment composed of the most rare and curious mar- 
 bles of beautiful workmanship ; the statue of St 
 Peter, with a constant succession of priests and per- 
 sons of all descriptions, kissing his foot ; the people 
 going to be confessed, and to engage in other acts 
 of religion — form a whole not to be paralleled on 
 earth : especially when seen, as I saw it, with the 
 sun's beams darting through the lofty windows of 
 the dome, throwing all into mysterious light, tip- 
 ping the gilded and plated ornaments, and giving 
 additional richness to the colours of the Mosaic 
 painting, and to the burnished silver lamps, which 
 sparkled like little constellations; while the effect of 
 all was heightened by the sound of the organ at ves- 
 pers, swelling in notes of triumph, then dying upon 
 the ear, and sinking into the soul ; the clear me- 
 lodious tones of the human voice, too, filling up 
 the pauses of the organ, diffusing a deeper solem- 
 nity through this great temple, and making us 
 
 feel an involuntary acknowledgment to God, who 
 had gifted man with such sublime conceptions. 
 
 This sacred temple is open in common to the 
 prince and to the beggar ;* and here the latter may 
 find an asylum, and even feel, amidst his present 
 abasement, the exaltation of his nature. Never 
 shall I forget a poor wretched diseased boy, not 
 more than four years of age, with scarcely a rag to 
 cover him, kneeling in front of all the magnificence 
 which I have attempted to describe, with his little 
 hands and eyes raised to heaven. His appearance 
 in such a place excited in our minds even higher 
 feelings of the sublime, than all the surrounding 
 pomp and splendour of papal decoration ;— for while 
 this gorgeous fabric shall be crumbling into un- 
 sightly ruins,— this little human speck, almost over- 
 looked amidst the variety and vastness of sur- 
 rounding objects,— this little heir of immortality 
 will enjoy undiminished youth throughout the 
 ages of eternity. 
 
 » I remember seeing two Princesses kneeling at the tomb 
 of St Peter, when a common mendicat.t came up, and placed 
 herself within a few inches of them. The servants of the Prin- 
 cesses, in splendid liveries, kneeled behind ; but they acre not 
 very devout. They kept pulling each other's coars, and 
 pointing to the pictures, and the beautiful effects of the sun»s 
 rays through the windows of the dome. 
 
'STREETS.— PALACES, 
 
 ^93 
 
 m 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Rome as it appears from elevated situations Gates. — Streds. 
 
 — Palaces. — Varied population. — Shops. — Inferior streets. 
 — Destruction of ancient marble. — Squares. — Obelisks. — 
 
 Churches. — External effect of St Peter's. — Pantheon 
 
 Remains of antiquity preserved in the walk. 
 
 You will naturally expect me to describe the ap- 
 pearance of the interior of the city, its streets, 
 palaces, and churches ; but please to recollect that 
 this has been done so often, and so minutely, that 
 it would be presumption in me to attempt to offer 
 you more than the slightest sketch. First, then, 
 let me inform you, that, although Rome, from all 
 the elevated points, but especially from the Capitol, 
 the Pincian hill, and Mount Janiculum, presents a 
 most imposing appearance, it is very possible that 
 the traveller may be disappointed on entering the 
 city. The noble gates, so much talked of, (I mean 
 the modern ones,) are not so simple and so grand 
 as Rome is entitled to. Even those designed by 
 Michael Angel o would not greatly excite your ad- 
 miration. His broken pediments, and pediments 
 within pediments, and unmeaning ornaments, would 
 
 ii 
 
 »ot gratify your taste, or charm your fastidious 
 eye. 
 
 The streets are narrow, dirty, and rendered 
 somewhat dismal by the height of the buildings, 
 lo the pedestrian, too, they are extremely un- 
 comfortable, from the want of side pavements; or 
 when these do occur, they are high, narrow, and 
 composed of small stones, extremely unpleasant to 
 walk upon The houses are large and often un- 
 seemly ; the lower apartments of the palaces have 
 grated w.ndows. and are seldom inhabited except 
 occasionally as stables. 
 
 These palaces are of enormous magnitude ; the 
 Piazza CoHona, which is a considerable square, is 
 formed by the sides of fourof these colossal buildings, 
 rhe Dona and Pamphili are joined, and the extent 
 of them united is prodigious; yet the Pontifical 
 palaces cover a still greater area. I„ general 
 they are greatly enriched with ornaments. baU 
 comes, belts, and cornices, but seldom in ..ood 
 ta^te : mdeed, no city which I have seen, so de- 
 cidedly teaches the discriminating architect what 
 he should avoid. ^ symmetry and architecture 
 of the ancient structures, which display so much 
 purity of style, have not been imitated : and, in- 
 deed. It must appear surprising, that, in such a 
 school of architecture,-a school in which M. An- 
 gelo. Raphael, Bramanti, Bernini, and Fontana. 
 had an opportunity of studying_so much of a 
 
^94- VARIED POPULATION IN THE STREETS. 
 
 ^audy and trifling character should prevail. The 
 splendid fountains, too, have a similar expression, 
 though the designs sculptured on them are often 
 appropriate, and deserving a better fate than florid 
 and vapouring mannerism. But though the ex- 
 cess of enrichment and bad taste are so discernible, 
 it must be allowed, that, upon the whole, there is 
 an imposing splendour in their appearance, which 
 is apt to render us blind to their defects.* 
 
 These edifices, together vtith the churches and 
 other buildings, generally line the streets, which 
 are filled with innumerable variety of priests, among 
 whom, the red stocking of the cardinal, and the 
 purple one of the bishop, are far from being rare. 
 Nobility, with theirorders at theirbutton-holes; con- 
 victs, in clanking chains ; innumerable mendicants; 
 pilgrims ; open carriages filled with Italian ladies 
 and their cavalieri serventi, the horses taujjht to 
 tramp and prance, as if they were carrying high 
 and mighty personages ; funeral processions, the 
 dead bodies carried on a bier, with their faces co- 
 
 * Many palaces might be pointed out in Rome and 
 Florence which, if placed in Edinburgh, would give it an 
 imperial appearance, and convince us that something more 
 is required than the tame and insipid uniformity of some of 
 the principal streets. I do not mean to say that all the houses 
 in these streets should be like palaces, but surely formality 
 might be overcome by tasteful variety. 
 
 SHOPS— DESTRUCTION OF ANCIENT MARBLES. 295 
 
 vered. preceded by priests and torches;* processions 
 ofchanfng priests with the viaticum, or extreme 
 unction, at the sight of which all take ofF their 
 hats, and bend their knees ; stalls with books and 
 prints ; fellows picking the feathers from wild fowl ■ 
 and people frying fish and roasting chestnuts J 
 are all tn.xed together ; while the eternal tolling of 
 bells the vanous cries, together with the lilts of 
 the Calabnan ,,ipers, produce a confusion, which, 
 after cunosity has subsided, is by no means agree- 
 abJe. * 
 
 The shops are mean and inelegant in their ap- 
 pearance resembling open arched coach-houses; 
 mdeed they are precisely of the same construction, 
 and when the doors are shut, the resemblance is 
 complete. They have few signs ; a bush project- 
 mg from a window, is sufficient to indicate where 
 wme or odgings may be had. The inferior streets 
 are for the most part privileged for the reception 
 ot hlth. and m them we may perceive collections of 
 marble colunms, friezes, cornices, and other fracr. 
 ments of antiquity, heaped up in various places, 
 to be broken down for lime, or used for inferior pur- 
 poses. Thus are consigned to oblivion, as it were 
 by imperceptible degrees, the character and relics 
 
 • lately tl.e ,i.a<l L,,dy <,f a noUemau Mi f,„,„ the bin- 
 "n the pavfm.'iit, in < oiisofnicnre of 
 •slippinL; his foot. 
 
 0111' (if t!ie stippoiti'is 
 
^96 SQUARES. EXTERIOR OF ST PETER's. 
 
 of ancient Rome ; proving that in the ckiitsed 
 "world, as well as in unhappy Greece, the precious 
 bequests of art are exposed to sacrilegious hands. 
 
 The squares, with few exceptions, are small ; 
 and the principal one, the Piazza d'Espagna, is 
 without pavement, and not even levelled. The 
 obelisks that adorn the squares are generally crown- 
 ed with bronze ornaments, perfectly out of charac- 
 ter and proportion. Most of the churches seem 
 to be of the family of St Peter's; the dome and 
 cupola are to be met with every where. The en- 
 trance into these churches is shut with large stuffed 
 mats, to keep out the external air ; and from their 
 appearance, and that of many of the miserable 
 squalid-looking wretches that enter there, it does 
 not seem safe to touch them without a glove. 
 
 The exterior of St Peter's has been so often and 
 so well described, that I shall content myself with 
 remarking, that, considering it was built by differ- 
 ent architects,* at different eras, each indulmnir 
 his own ideas of grandeur, it is surprising that 
 there exists so much apparent unity of design. 
 Bernini's splendid circular colonnade, however, 
 though noble in itself, certainly reduces the digni- 
 ty of the principal building, especially when view- 
 
 • No less than lifteen in number, viz. Kosclli, Alberti, Bra- 
 manli, Julian da San^jallo, Jocond, Raphael, Peruzzi, An- 
 thony da Sangallo, Michael Angelo, Vignola, Perro Ligo- 
 rio, James della Porta, Carlo Madeino, Bernini, Machionni. 
 
 PANTHEON. 
 
 ^97 
 
 ed near the columns. Though St Peter's is intend- 
 ed to be an august and mighty pile, the details 
 being in just proportion, are greatly calculated 
 to deceive, and give the whole structure, when seen 
 at any distance, a diminished appearance. When 
 we advance, however, close upon the edifice, the 
 smallest parts, contrasted with little man, sinks 
 him to nothing ; and the sublime fabric, rising with 
 all the attributes of magnitude, almost overpowers 
 him with the sense of his own insignificance. 
 
 The Pantheon, the portal of which " shines 
 inimitable on earth," is the only building that I 
 would compare with St Peter's :— there are, in- 
 deed, many large structures in Rome ; but its 
 dignified appearance, as a whole, with its dark and 
 dusky vestment of time, speaks so emphatically 
 to the mind, as to command an unqualified ad- 
 miration.* Canova has added to his immortal 
 name, by adorning the interior of this noble an- 
 cient temple witli many busts of the greatest 
 painters, poets, and architects. In several parts 
 of modern Rome, we tread on the same pavement 
 which was trodden by the ancient Romans, and 
 this is formed of large square blocks of lava, which 
 
 ♦ I'hc portico, 90 feet in breadth, consists of three rows of 
 columns, the front row having eight, and the secoi.d and third 
 four each ; and what is very remarkable, there is a consider- 
 able variation in the dimensions of the columns, from four feet 
 nine inches, to five feet eight tenths of an inch. 
 
1 
 
 Q98 
 
 PANTHEON. 
 
 m 
 
 appear to have been intended to last for ever We 
 have occasionally recognised, too, ancient sarco- 
 phagi, now used as cisterns for horses, and many 
 very beautiful remains of sculpture built in the 
 walls. The finest have been transferred to Cano 
 va's studio, and consist of figures, heads, friezes 
 and other interesting fragments, such as you would 
 covet J but none of them are superior to that of 
 Severus and Julia in the Netherbow of Edinbur-h 
 which is unaccountably allowed to remain where it 
 might be injured by frost and other causes. 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 The Ruins bif Moonlight, — Column of lyajan, — Temples of 
 Ncrva, Pallas^ and Peace. — Coliseum^ and Ruins in the 
 ancient Forum, 
 
 1 HE evenings here are often so extremely beauti- 
 ful, that we have occasionally been tempted to vi- 
 sit the magnificent antiquities by moonlight. The 
 column of Trajan, that glorious memorial of Ro- 
 man dignity, apppeared, when viewed thus, to 
 great advantage. The contrast of the light of the 
 passing flambeauxs, glowing on the enriched base- 
 ment, while the beautiful embossed shaft reflected 
 the silver moon, had an effect indescribably fine. 
 Part of the sculpture was distinctly seen, while other 
 parts, as time obliterates names and facts, were 
 lost in oblivion. From various situations, the co- 
 lumn was opposed to dark and shaded buildings, 
 which gave it a point and character, and reminded 
 us of the diamond on the sable hair of beauty. 
 The temples of Nerva and Pallas were greatly im- 
 proved by Cynthia's beams ; and the shadows and 
 fine touches of light upon the entablature and co- 
 lumns, — the mysterious and solemn aspect of the 
 
300 
 
 COLISEU-M. 
 
 m 
 
 whole,— united, in one sentiment, the past and the 
 present, and impressed us with a deep, yet pleas- 
 ing melancholy. The Temple of Peace was im- 
 pressive in the silence of night. 
 
 As we approached the Coliseum, the moon point- 
 ed out innumerable columns of marble and granite, 
 some of them entire, and others broken by brutal 
 violence. When ive entered the Coliseum itself, 
 the moon was in full splendour ; but, in attemptin<^ 
 to describe this mighty work, I feel how utterly in", 
 adequate my powers are to my subject. The innu- 
 merable open arches, with the moon beams shinin<r 
 through them, were like the eyes of past ages look"- 
 ing upon us. The very masses of huge square blocks, 
 though inconsiderable accessories, were in their 
 effect extremely gmnd ; we could only move, with- 
 out mquiring why we were impressed with such 
 solemn awe. We walked by the pale beams through 
 all the witchery of the place ; silence and uncer- 
 tainty prevailed ; and a single drop of water, falling 
 from a vaulted roof, was heard at a great distance. 
 We ascended the first and second corridors, where 
 successive generations of Romans, from the emperor 
 to the meanest slave, had crowded to witness the 
 mutual butchery of gladiators, and the conflicts of 
 human bemgs with furious wild beasts. Some- 
 times we wandered in the dark ; at other times we 
 were led by the glimmering light of scattered moon- 
 beams seen from afar, and casting shadows which 
 
 COLISEUM. 
 
 501 
 
 appeared like the phantoms of the departed. As 
 we advanced, tlie light became stronger, and we 
 perceived that we were yet among the living,— a 
 circumstance which mystery, uncertainty, and the 
 impression of ancient times, had made us almost 
 forget. Ascending higher among the ruins, we took 
 our station where the whole magnitude of the 
 Coliseum was visible : what a fulness of mind the 
 first glance excited ! yet how inexpressible at the 
 same time were our feelings ! The awful silence 
 of this dread ruin still appealed to our hearts. 
 The single sentinel's tread, and the ticking of our 
 watches, were the only sounds we heard, while the 
 moon was marching in the vault of night, and the 
 stars were peeping through the various openings ; 
 the shadows of the flying clouds being all that 
 reminded us of motion and of life. We were 
 tempted to exclaim : A\ here are the five thousand 
 wild beasts that tore each other to pieces, on the 
 day on which this mighty pile was opened ? Silent 
 now are those unnatural shouts of applause called 
 forth by the murderous figlits of the gladiators;— 
 what a contrast to this death of sound ! 
 
 On taking our last look, and giving our farewell 
 sighs to the night, the grand effect of the whole 
 was striking to the last degree. While one part 
 was in shadow against the light of the sky, other 
 parts were mingled in the deepened indigo, and 
 seemed as it were blended with the heavens, 
 
302 
 
 RUINS IN THE FORUM. 
 
 m 
 
 strongly reminding us, wliile we looked at the Cross 
 below, of the connection between this and another 
 world. 
 
 The triumphal arches, the remains of palaces 
 and temples, addressing the mind through every 
 stain and every dye of crumbling and dejected 
 ruin, their last shadows recalling to our contempla- 
 tion Roman glory, Roman honour, Roman virtue, 
 Roman genius, Roman cruelty and folly, formed a 
 spectacle that spoke to the heart, and bade the eye 
 obey its sad emotion. 
 
 Objects often derive a character from the state 
 of mind in which they are viewed. While we 
 stood in the ancient Roman Forum, with the 
 Capitol before us, the beauteous moon seemed 
 doubly interesting ; and while we contrasted her 
 with the affecting edifices around, she and her 
 train of stars appeared like tears in the scutcheon 
 of Roman grandeur. 
 
 li:tter XXVI. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 The Borghcse Collection of Paintings. 
 
 m 
 
 HE Borghese collection of paintings ranks a- 
 mong the first in Rome. The principal pictures 
 are those by Raphael, Titian, Domenichino, Paul 
 Veronese, Parmagiano, Julio Romano, A. Caracci, 
 M. Angelo, Caravaggio, Garoffalo, Albano, &c. 
 
 In the first of the suite of rooms there are few 
 good paintings; St Catherine, by Parmagiano, is 
 among the best ; her right hand is placed upon 
 her breast, displaying a set of fingers certainly out 
 of all nature in point of length ; had they been 
 sculptured in marble, I should have thought it no 
 crime to have snapped off at least an inch of each. 
 With all its mannerism, however, it is a good 
 picture. 
 
 Domenichino. 
 
 In the second room is the celebrated Chace of 
 Diana by Domenichino ; deservedly a favourite, 
 both with the learned and unlearned. The silvery 
 brilliancy and clearness of colouring is very fas- 
 cinating. Daylight is finely represented, the 
 
304 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 W: 
 
 shadows, and the various reflections from ilhinii- 
 nated objects, have never been more justly and deli- 
 cately expressed. The Goddess appears among 
 her nymphs, proclaiming the prize of a bow and 
 quiver, to be won by one of her train, who has 
 killed a bird by shooting it through the head while 
 flying. The bow of the fortunate nymph is still 
 in her hand, and she remains in the attitude of 
 pulling the string. A nymph sporting in the wa- 
 ter, is quite a piece of deception in point of nature ; 
 some of the other females, however, appear to want 
 dignity, the one especially who has discovered two 
 intruding males peeping through a thicket at their 
 harmless pastime. Perhaps there may likewise be 
 too much of a family likeness in all the faces, 
 which would have been more agreeable, had they 
 been of a higher description of beauty, as the 
 nymphs of Diana certainly were well entitled to be. 
 I could have wished, too, that the numerous legs 
 and arms had been less perceptible, and better 
 composed. 
 
 M. Angelo Caravaggio. 
 
 A picture of the Virgin and Christ tread- 
 ing ON the head of a Serpent. Christ is 
 represented as a boy from eight to ten years of 
 age, and seems to be much afraid, from the man- 
 ner in which he puts his foot upon the serpent. 
 This surely betrays an error in judgment in the 
 
 BORGHESE paintings. 
 
 305 
 
 painter. The figure of Christ, too, has all the vul- 
 garity of common and ill chosen nature; and, indeed, 
 the Virgin herself cannot boast of much of the beau 
 ideal ; her figure and expression do not corre- 
 spond with our idea of exalted mental simplicity. 
 We cannot admit a common and every-day-looking 
 person, of low condition, to be contrasted with the 
 image which veneration and devotion has formed 
 in our minds of the Virgin Mary. The face, 
 nevertheless, is natural, and admirably painted. To 
 the right of the picture appears an old wrinkled 
 female, who conveys no idea of any kind except 
 wretchedness and stupidity. Caravaggio's light 
 and shade, and broad and masterly effect, would 
 have better suited a nobler style of beauty than is 
 perceptible throughout this picture. His mind 
 must have been but indifferently stored with ideas 
 of well selected nature, on broad and liberal views. 
 Indeed, it would appear that he seldom painted 
 without his living model, and it is to be regretted 
 that his choice was often bad ; the more so, as he 
 had not the talent like Guido to conjure up ideas of 
 delicacy and grace, while he studied from uncouth 
 forms. 
 
 In the same room there is a good picture by 
 Bonifacio, something in Titian's manner; like- 
 wise several heads by Annibal Caracci, especial- 
 ly one of St Francis in a broad and noble style, 
 finely coloured and pencilled with captivating free- 
 
 m 
 
 VOL. I, 
 
 U 
 
306 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS, 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 307 
 
 dom. Some landscapes, composed in the style of 
 Caracci, are worthy of an extended notice. Blue, 
 however, predominates too much in them through- 
 out, which makes them look cold and comfortless. 
 Without a proper contrast of warm or rich colours 
 opposed to cold ones, a landscape will rarely be 
 pleasing to the eye ; but with a happy mixture of 
 these, the extremes of either may be given with 
 great effect. Cigoli's St Francis, in the same apart- 
 ment, may illustrate this remark. The rich brown 
 drapery of the saint is in most agreeable harmony 
 with the cool greys in the back-ground. 
 
 Tliere is also a picture by Annibal Carraci, in 
 the manner of Coreggio, very good. 
 
 Boraccio's Burning of Troy, of which there is 
 an etching, is but a vapid picture, though the draw- 
 ing is good, and the colouring pleasing. A few 
 smart and powerful touches of light and shade would 
 have corrected the prevailing monotony ; perhaps, 
 too, a few indications of more vivid colouring might 
 have been ao^reeable. 
 
 Continuing our tour through the suite of rooms, 
 we found in an adjoining apartment a beautiful little 
 picture by Paul Veronese; the subject, St Anthony 
 addressing the Fishes. I could have wished, 
 however, that the attitude of the Saint had been 
 more appropriate ; he bends in a circular or curved 
 manner, with a great stalk of white lilies in his 
 hand, as if the weight of them were likely to make 
 
 him lose his balance. The fishes, with their heads 
 above water, are at such a distance, that I should 
 think they have little chance of being benefited by 
 his discourse. These, perhaps, are the defects of 
 the picture. The figures which are to the right of 
 St Anthony are exquisitely painted, and the scar- 
 let and red drapery is a most judicious harmony 
 to the cool green sea. It does not appear that 
 Paul Veronese has used any strong glazino- co- 
 lours in this picture, except upon the water ; yet 
 it is not wanting in mellow richness. The sky, 
 with some flesh-coloured streaks, seemed at first 
 a little too green, but it improved upon the eye, 
 and perhaps such a tone was necessaiy to take up 
 the prevailing colour of the sea beneath. The 
 effect of the whole, notwithstanding this artifice, 
 is agreeable and natural, but it is not of an ele- 
 vated character. The merit of the picture chiefly 
 consists in its facility of pencilling. 
 
 The great composition by Lanfranc of a Giant 
 laying his rude hand on a Defenceless Female, 
 who is coming out of a cave with a sheep's skin upon 
 her, is certainly a magnificent picture in many re- 
 spects, but the subject is so revolting, that I had 
 little pleasure in studying it. St John, by Paul 
 Veronese, is a curious painting, full of exqui- 
 site parts and considerable defects. The hand 
 and arm of St John is stiff and disagreeable, 
 nay absolutely bad. But the colouring compen- 
 
 Mi 
 
 M^ 
 
308 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 309 
 
 sates, as far as colouring can, for its errors ; at 
 least it produces a very forgiving and grateful 
 feeling in the mind, which, when the eye settles up- 
 on the delightful harmony, will not readily return to 
 gaze on faults. To the right of St John is a group 
 of figures, and so perfect in effect of colour, that I 
 cannot forbear mentioning the arrangement, though 
 I am persuaded it can give no precise idea of the 
 magical effect in the picture ; — so much depends 
 upon the management of those subordinate parts 
 by which the principal masses of colour are united, 
 and of which it is impossible for me to convey 
 any idea by words. One of the figures, (the far- 
 thest back,) in a Turkish looking dress, has a 
 low- toned colour of face, in shadow, with a pur- 
 plish-coloured cap ; next to this figure appears 
 one with a very dark countenance, with a black 
 flowing beard, a whitish yellow turban, striped 
 with dusky orange or gold ; on his shoulder is 
 a shawl, which appears to be twisted, and partly 
 falls below, of the same pattern as the turban ; un- 
 der this is a green pelisse. The third opposing 
 figure has a pink turban, with an orange top, 
 and a yellow Spanish-looking dress ; the opening of 
 the sleeves are white, and a bluish grey shawl 
 is thrown partly over the shoulder. In the back- 
 ground, to the left, are some small figures done 
 in a very light and sketchy style, but full of grace 
 and beauty, (especially the female,) and greatly 
 
 reminded me of some of the works of our excellent 
 artist Mr Stodhert. 
 
 Julio Romano's copy of St John, after Raphael, 
 the same as that in the Royal Gallery of Florence. 
 The figure of St John is well drawn, and finely 
 painted ; a copy by such a master is really little 
 inferior to the original ; the spirit of the picture 
 is well sustained, and there is no hesitating or 
 awkward painting, indicating a want of knowledge 
 or proper feeling. In the same room are Two 
 Apostles, painted on gilded back-grounds, said to 
 be by Michael Angelo. They do not appear very 
 like his works ; but the custodi, when he heard me 
 doubt, insisted that they were by his hand, and 
 exclaimed, Certo ! Securamente, Signore ! Never- 
 theless, I still kept doubting, and do to this day, 
 notwithstanding such good authority. 
 
 Raphael. 
 
 A small Portrait of Himself, at the age of 
 13, and painted by himself. It is by no means bad. 
 The colouring and effect are excellent, but of 
 course there is a certain hesitation of pencil, which 
 might be expected, even in a genius like Ra- 
 phael's, at so early an age. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 A Family Piece, as it is called, said to be by 
 Titian, something in the style of Teniers j a female 
 
 w 
 
 B7 
 
SiO 
 
 boiigiip:se paintings. 
 
 appears in bed, and on the fore-ground a woman is 
 giving suck to a child. The colouring and texture 
 are excellent ; but I regretted to see that the ful- 
 ness and breadth of rich colouring on this work 
 were ill bestowed on a subject otherwise familiar 
 in itself. It seemed as if Titian, if ever it pro- 
 ceeded from his hand, had been attempting a sub- 
 ject more properly belonging to the Dutch school. 
 The Dutch and Flemish masters have un- 
 doubtedly discovered that mode of pencilling and 
 finish, which seem to be best adapted for familiar 
 subjects, and I question whether a more elevated 
 style would suit so well. A certain neatness and 
 care appears indispensable, and is, indeed, one of 
 the principal fascinations in the works of the in- 
 ferior schools. 
 
 Dossi Dosso. 
 
 A picture representing an Enchantress with 
 lier spells ; there is a certain grandeur and myste- 
 riousair in this painting which immediately impresses 
 the mind. The style is not unlike that of Titian, 
 and the landscape back-ground, which is beautifully 
 varied with wood and buildings, is in many respects 
 worthy of the genius of that illustrious man. 
 
 Sebastian del Piombo. 
 
 The Scourging of Christ, a small picture, said 
 to be sketched by Michael Angelo, and finished 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS, 
 
 311 
 
 by Sebastian del Piombo, being the original design 
 for the celebrated picture in the church of St 
 Pietro Montorio. The effect is good, and the 
 anatomy and fine detail in the breast and shoulder 
 are quite inimitable ; but the legs of the figures are 
 confused, and it requires some time to know to 
 which figure they respectively belong. 
 
 Raphael. 
 
 The Deposition of Christ in this master's 
 second manner. This picture is remarkable for 
 expression, and pleasing harmony of colour ; the 
 date, in letters of gold, is M.D. VII. Even the 
 most celebrated painters have found it difficult to 
 arrange the limbs of the figures, or compose them 
 in such a way as to be agreeable to the eye. In 
 this picture there is a want of harmony among the 
 lines, which is the more noticeable in a work of 
 Raphael's ; no painter having studied the refine- 
 ment of composition more than that great master. 
 
 Domenichino. 
 
 A Sybil ; expressive of inspired and dignified 
 beauty; her eyes, looking up to heaven, beam 
 with intelligence. She leans on a book with a 
 scroll of music in her hand, and the exquisite de- 
 licacy of colour and effect gives additional delight 
 at every time we return to view this captivating 
 picture. It is all perfection, even to the hands, 
 
312 
 
 BORGIIESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 which are formed to excite even a poet's admi- 
 ration, though he had been dreaming of celestial 
 beauty. 
 
 Albano. 
 
 There are four good pictures by this master, 
 representing the Toilet of Venus. The Goddess 
 sporting with Cupids; Venus disarming Cupid; and 
 Venus and Adonis. The back-grounds, which 
 are well painted, are all too dark, and make the 
 figures appear detached from the general com- 
 position. 
 
 Teniers. 
 
 A small sketchy picture by that master. 
 
 Two small pictures, painted on black polished 
 stone, and highly finished, something in the style 
 of A. Caracci. The effect is by no means pleasing, 
 and we cannot divest ourselves of the idea of 
 marble, which the artist has failed to combine as a 
 harmonious and constituent part of his picture. 
 The idea that this device was intended to save la- 
 bour, is of itself sufficient to create a prejudice 
 against the pictures. The one is a Deposition 
 OF Christ, and the other a Resurrection of 
 Lazarus. 
 
 Titian. 
 The Woman taken in Adultery. Tliis is a 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 313 
 
 fine picture ; the colouring and the general effect is 
 harmonious and pleasing ; but it was hung too high 
 to permit any examination of the detail. 
 
 Paul Veronese. 
 
 A Venus and Cupid, and a monkey-looking 
 Satyr. The Venus and Adonis, by the same 
 master, is badly composed, and, in point of senti- 
 ment, it is reprehensible. This is the less to be ex- 
 cused, in Paul Veronese, whose pencil could so 
 well pourtray the most delicate and attractive ex- 
 pression of character. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 Return of the Prodigal Son. A splendid 
 picture, broad and masterly, the colours absolutely 
 appear to be beaming with brilliancy ; the figures, 
 though separated from each other, do not seem 
 detached, but by ingenious contrivances, are com- 
 bined into one pleasing whole. 
 
 Benvenuto Gorofalo. 
 llie works of tin's master always display a re- 
 fined taste and correct design ; the little luminous 
 picture from his pencil in this palace is a favourite 
 with all, and is indeed a most successful specimen. 
 
 Raphael. 
 Portrait of the Duke of Valintin, in his usual 
 
314 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 style of excellence ; a portrait of a Cardinal, but 
 not so good ; it is somewhat vapid and spiritless. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 Sacred and Profane Love, being two female 
 figures sitting on the edge of a fountain, which is or- 
 namented with bas relief. Cupid appears to be play- 
 ing with his hand in the water; the back-giound 
 consists of trees and buildings, admirably painted 
 and well designed. One of the figures, which is 
 extremely beautiful, is partly naked, the other is 
 clothed ; both have a modest and interesting ap- 
 pearance, and seem not to be expressive of the 
 name given to the picture : indeed, I am at a loss 
 to know in what respect the name applies. The 
 figure, which is partly nude, has red drapery over 
 the left shoulder, and white drapery before. The 
 clothed figure is in white, with red sleeves and 
 gloves, and in her right hand she holds a flower. 
 Both seemed to me to be portraits of the same per- 
 son. As a piece of colouring the picture is faultless, 
 but I could wish the story had been more intel- 
 ligible. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 Venus Blinding Cupid. It is impossible to con- 
 ceive a more lovely piece of colouring. The flesh 
 has that characteristic truth, which excites an 
 involuntary feeling of surprise. The Cupid lean- 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 315 
 
 ing upon the shoulder of Venus is truly matchless, 
 so beautifully rounded, so delicate and natural, 
 that Titian seems here to have eclipsed himself. 
 The peachy-looking softness, the fresh pearly ten- 
 derness of those tones which escape a common eye, 
 impress themselves upon the mind, and when we 
 look at nature after the examination of such a pic- 
 ture, we descry beauties which we had never 
 looked for, nor observed before. The counte- 
 nance of Venus, however, is not very bewitching, 
 and the perpendicular dark line to her left, will 
 not please every eye, though it is contrived, no 
 doubt, to destroy monotony, and produce a poig- 
 nancy of effect. The drapery of Venus is some- 
 what slight and unfinished, but the toute ensemble 
 positively commands our silence, and forbids our 
 notice of trifling faults. 
 
 Francisco Bassan. 
 
 An Adoration of the Magi, painted in a free 
 and masterly manner, and not unlike a picture by 
 Paul Veronese; the colouring is good, and no vul- 
 garity except in some trifling details. Had Bassan 
 painted less, and studied more, he would have been 
 a shining ornament in art ; indeed, this picture is a 
 fine example of his powerful talent. 
 
 Andrea del Sarto. 
 The Virgin Mary, Christ, and St John j by 
 
316 
 
 BORGHESE PAINTINGS. 
 
 STATUES. 
 
 317 
 
 I 
 
 no means a good picture ; mannered, and with 
 something of the afFectation of Goltizius. 
 
 Room of Vernet's Landscapes. 
 
 These landscapes are all of an upright shape, 
 painted on canvas, and fixed in the wall. The 
 pencilling is free, but not referable to nature, 
 and the compositions may be said to be absolutely 
 bad. They are eariy pictures, and the shape of 
 the pannels on which they are fixed (being four 
 times at least the height of their breadth) is much 
 against judicious arrangement. In one of the 
 rooms, too, we observed a number of mirrors 
 painted by Cerofari, representing Cupids playing 
 among flowers ; very seldom does colouring look 
 brilliant upon glass; the reflection generally over- 
 powers the colours, unless, at the same time, it re- 
 flects a deep and solemn shade. It is almost im- 
 possible, too, to divest one's self of the idea, that 
 the painting, however good, is intended to hide 
 the joinings of the glass. 
 
 The Borghese collection contains at least 400 
 or 500 pictures, but several of them are indif- 
 ferent. I have mentioned what I consider the 
 best, though there are many others certainly well 
 deserving of particular notice. Many of them are 
 taken down and placed upon the floor, as it is the 
 intention of the Prince Borghese to have a new 
 arrangement. The famous statue of The Herma- 
 
 phrodite IS in this palace, and I think eclipses 
 the one in the Gallery at Florence. The statue 
 of the Princess Pauline, as a recHning Venus, is 
 not exhibited. The busts in porphyry are gene- 
 rally well executed, but certainly not so pleasing 
 to the eye as marble. 
 
RUINS ADOPTED BY THE OLD MASTERS. 319 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Ruins of Rome—Their interest to the Antiquarian and 
 Painter, — The use made of them by the old Masters.— 
 The profusion of materials and facilities for composition, 
 pointed out by Claude, Poussin, and Domenichino.— Con- 
 duct of the modern Artists.State of the Arts in Rome.— 
 —The example of the British Painters may tend to the 
 resuscitation of Italian Art.— Sculpture.— Remarks on Ca- 
 novas and Thorwaldsons works ; a comparison between them. 
 —Appearance of their Studios.— Gem and Copperplate 
 Engraving.— State of Architecture.— Hints to planting in 
 Edinburgh, 
 
 There are few ruins in the world more interest- 
 ing than those of ancient Rome ; though it must 
 be admitted that we meet with some which are 
 only shapeless masses composed of brick. Inde- 
 pendent of the historical and classical associations 
 connected with these noble remains of Roman 
 grandeur, they derive a powerful interest, from 
 being recognized as the principal features in several 
 of the compositions of the greatest landscape paint- 
 ers. The Temples of Concord, of Vesta, of the 
 Sun, and the Sybil at Tivoli, the Coliseum, the 
 triumphal arches, the magnificent mausoleums of 
 Hadrian, Caius Cestus, and Cecilia Metella, and 
 
 the splendid columns and aqueducts, have all been 
 pourtrayed by the immortal pencils of Claude, 
 Domenichino, and Niccolo Poussin. The remains, 
 too, of the tombs on the Appian way, the bridges 
 and towers on the Campagna, have attracted the 
 genius of Both, * Wilson, and many other celebrat- 
 ed painters. 
 
 Nothing, surely, can be more instiiicting to 
 the man of taste and feeling, than to see how 
 these great men have treated the various interest- 
 ing objects which surrounded them, not only in- 
 dividually, but as parts in their beautiful and 
 magnificent compositions. The very idea of 
 studying from the same objects which have, as it 
 were, inspired those mighty geniuses, is of itself 
 sufficient to kindle the highest feeling for the 
 beauties of nature and of art. Claude, Poussin, 
 and Domenichino, however, have not confined 
 themselves exclusively to the study of the ancient 
 edifices ; but have occasionally introduced in their 
 pictures several of the more modern structures. 
 The buildings of the Vatican, the palace of the 
 Medici and Faniese, together with many of the 
 subordinate buildings, have been introduced in 
 some of their finest compositions. Rome, indeed, 
 
 ♦ The beautiful cabinet picture, belonging to James Russell, 
 Esq. of Edinburgh, by J. Both, is compobcd from a tomb on 
 the Appian way. 
 
3^0 
 
 NEGLECTED BY MODERN ARTISTS. 
 
 with the adjacent country, offers, to a man of 
 talent and discernment, materials for the noblest 
 landscape composition. 
 
 The marbles in the Vatican, the Capitol, the 
 private palaces, and public gardens, are all ac- 
 cessible, and may furnish the student with every 
 accessory that can suitably combine with his 
 selection of architecture. The country, too, with 
 its inimitable train of accompaniments, unites 
 in suggesting pictures of a liigh and classical 
 character, — ever varying, ever new. The mode 
 of study followed by the ancient landscape paint- 
 ers is so obvious, and so distinctly pointed out 
 by the country, and the various objects of en- 
 richment to which their works constantly refer, 
 that it appears very surprising that the modern 
 landscape painters of Rome should have so far de- 
 generated from these great standards. Why they 
 have rejected a style so noble, comprehensive, and 
 improving, in the midst of such august profusion, 
 for one so diametrically opposite, — so narrow, and 
 comparatively contemptible in its scope, — remains 
 a problem which will not be easily solved. 
 
 The ancient painters, as well as the modern, 
 made faithful drawings from nature ; but they sel- 
 dom considered a simple study or part of a scene 
 as a proper subject for a picture ; and rarely, indeed, 
 confined themselves to a mere view. They rang- 
 ed through nature and art in general, for the ele- 
 
 STATE OF THE ARTS IN ROME. 
 
 3^1 
 
 ments of their composition ; and, accordingly, we 
 find the mausoleum of Hadrian, or the buildings 
 of the Vatican, combined with hills, lofty trees, and 
 winding waters, amidst which are introduced fi- 
 gures and groupes of classical allusion. In the 
 works of Domenichino and Annibal Caracci may 
 be seen the tomb or pyramid of Caius Cestus, and 
 other edifices, addressing the mind in scenes that 
 awaken dreams of the past, and rttune the soul to 
 tender melancholy. 
 
 The palaces and other buildings of Rome are 
 placed by the immortal Claude among shipping, 
 and embellished and rendered interesting by the 
 landing of a saint or a queen, while the sun, rising 
 among the splendid edifices, reflects on the gently 
 undulating waves, and glows on the robes of regal 
 grandeur. And how often do we meet in his works 
 with the beautiful temple of V^esta, orof the Sybil, gra- 
 cing the most romantic scenery ! Who would pre^ 
 fer the local or even extensive views of nature, 
 w^hich, at best, can only suggest a beautiful or mag- 
 nificent portrait of a country, to those combinations 
 which speak so eloquently to the soul, and exhibit in 
 their arrangement such profound knowledge and 
 skill? Yet true it is, that the Roman landscape-paint- 
 ers, and even the Germans who come hither to 
 study, generally employ themselves in painting some 
 ill chosen scene ; and their taste is so far from being 
 refined by the noble objects amongst which they re- 
 
 VOL. I. X 
 
S22 ROMAN PAINTERS INFERIOR TO BRITISH. 
 
 side, and the great models which the ancients have 
 left, that the defects of the subject are studied with 
 the same ignorant perseverance, as those parts which 
 are most beautiful and interestinsf. 
 
 In landscape composition, we in vain look 
 among the Romans for any one to rival a Turner, 
 a Callcot, or a Thomson. The representation of 
 familiar and rustic life, in which Wilkie rises 
 so far above all comparison or competition, is 
 to the Roman painters absolutely unknown. * 
 In portrait-painting, which of them can compare 
 with a Lawrence, a Raeburn, or a Geddes ? t 
 Or in miniature, with a Saunders or a Thom- 
 son? t In the department of history, Camuccini 
 has certainly great merit ; his drawing is good, 
 and his taste is pure; but in his works we look in 
 vain for that depth of thought, that originality of 
 conception, chiaro oscuro, vigour and power of 
 colouring, which give so interesting and exalted a 
 
 * I am sorry to hear of the death of Mr Graham, Master 
 of the Academy in Edinburgh, by whom Mr Wilkie, and 
 some other eminent artists, were instructed in drawing. A 
 report has reached us, however, that Mr Graham is to be suc- 
 ceeded by that excellent painter, Mr Andrew Wilson, who is 
 well qualified to support the credit of the Academy, 
 
 f In every thing necessary to form a perfect cabinet pic- 
 ture, Mr Geddes is unrivalled among British artists. 
 
 I Mr William Thomson of Edinburgh. 
 
VolLP«r» M3 
 
 >o 
 
 
 / 
 
 ^ 
 
 .i y. w *.. l.o" t*""' 
 
 I LLE HlC EST RAPHAEL 
 TIMVIT QVO SOSPITE V»NCI 
 RERVM MAGNA PARENS 
 E T MOR 1 ENTE MORI 
 
 ROMAN PAINTERS INFERIOR TO BRITISH. S28 
 
 character to the paintings of West, Haydon, and 
 others of our Bi'itish artists. 
 
 In the beautiful art of painting in water colours, 
 Britain stands supreme, or rather, she may be said 
 to have appropriated it exclusively. The meagre- 
 ness of style of the modern artists of Rome, in 
 that department, and their total want of ingenuity 
 in expressing the texture and characteristic detail 
 of various objects, independent of their want of 
 knowledge of colouring and effect, is not a little 
 surprising, especially when we consider their op- 
 portunities and encouragement. Their pencil 
 sketches, however, abating a little mannerism, are 
 extremely beautiful. 
 
 To the works of the students in the academies, 
 the same observations may be applied, which I 
 have made on those of Parma, Bologna, and 
 Florence. And although, in the Academy of St 
 Luke's, they have had the privilege of drawing 
 their pencils over the scull of Raphael, which is 
 exhibited there, and of which I send you a little 
 sketch, their works, dry and lifeless as the scull 
 itself, show not one particle of the genius which 
 resided once within that *' palace of the soul.'* 
 
 From the state of the art of painting in Italy, and, 
 indeed, I may say on the continent in general, 
 it has little chance of being revived, except by 
 the example of the modern British painters. Were 
 the Italians so fortunate as to have such eminent 
 
 ».Wiii 
 
VoVlPiiT^ A?« 
 
 
 r-nrr T-r TT I: JTJ: A t J, A^ 
 
 = /. -'..AA^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 rv''v"Vi' V i* V V V'V 
 
 ;LLE h;C est RAPHAEL 
 
 T 1 '^l V J T Q \ 
 
 KL J 
 
 U "w 
 
 PA P P N 
 
 ROMAN PAINTERS TVFERIOK TO HRITlSIf. fr2S 
 
 character to the paintings of West, Ilaydon, and 
 others of our Iliitisli artists. 
 
 In the beautiful art of painting in water cok)urs, 
 Britain stands supreme, or ratlier, she may be said 
 to have appropriated it cxchisively. The meagre- 
 ness of style of the modern artists of Rome, in 
 that department, and their total want of ingenuity 
 in expressing tlie texture and characteristic detail 
 of various objects, independent of tlieir want of 
 knowledge of colouring and effect, is not a little 
 surprising, especially when we consider their op- 
 ])()rtunities and encouragement. Their pencil 
 sketches, Imwcver, abating a little mannerism, are 
 extremely beautiful. 
 
 To the works of the students in the academies, 
 the same observations may be applied, which I 
 have made on those of Piirma, Bologna, and 
 Florence. And although, in the Academy of St 
 Luke's, they have had the privilege of drawing 
 their pencils over the scull of Raphael, which is 
 exhibited there, and of which I send you a little 
 sketch, tlieir works, dry and lifeless as the scull 
 itself, show not one particle of the genius which 
 resided once within that *' palace of the soul." 
 
 From the state of the art of painting in Italy, and, 
 indeed, I may say on the continent in general, 
 it has little cliance of being revived, except by 
 the example of the modern l^ritish painters. Were 
 the Italians so fortunate as to have such eminent 
 
 Rl 
 
 VjAi 
 
5^4 ROMAN PAINTERS INFERIOR TO BRITISH. 
 
 men, residing among them, as Sir Thomas Law- 
 rence, Mr Turner, or Mr Wilkie, it cannot be 
 doubted, that the effects of their example would 
 powerfully tend to resuscitate that divine art, to 
 which Italy, from the illustrious masters which 
 it once possessed, still owes the main part of its 
 interest and importance. * It is, indeed, no 
 small proof of the fascination which the great 
 masters of former times imparted to this seat of 
 the arts, which their talents rendered so pre-emi- 
 nent, that, even in the present degraded state to 
 which they are sunk, the name of Italy is so in- 
 separably interwoven with whatever is worthy of 
 attention in the art of painting, that the wealth 
 expended for the productions, poor as they are, 
 of its present school, would be sufficient, if bestow- 
 ed on the same arts in Britain, to give them the 
 support which alone is required to raise them to 
 the same eminence, that conferred splendour on 
 the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 
 
 So inferior in the various departments of paint- 
 
 • The British artists who lately made a copy of the Transfi- 
 guration, by Raphael, and the St Jerome, by Domenichino, 
 excited a great sensation among the Koman artists ; as like- 
 wise did the celcbratc<i Mr Geddes of Edinburgh, in cop)ing a 
 picture of the Venetian school in the Gallery of the Louvre— 
 his process being quite upon the principle of the Venetian mode 
 of colouring. 
 
 ROMAN SCULPTORS SUPERIOR TO BRITISH. S'25 
 
 ing IS the modem Italian school to that of Britain, 
 notwithstanding the many seeming disadvantages 
 of the latter. These very disadvantages, however, 
 I am inclined to think, by engaging our artists in 
 the study of nature, and the exercise of their own 
 minds, are favourable to the developement of 
 genius, and lead them on in the same career of im- 
 provement, by which the ancient masters advanced 
 to their unrivalled eminence. 
 
 In sculpture, however, we are inferior to the 
 Italians. We have not a Canova or Thorwaldson. 
 Chauntry and Flaxman, it is true, are treading fast 
 upon their heels; but, comparing their works al- 
 together, their statues, basso relievos, animals, 
 busts, and monumental works, the Italian sculptors, 
 upon the whole, certainly have the advantage, espe- 
 cially in nature and delicacy of finishing. In their 
 monumental works, in particular, there is less of that 
 bulky or gross appearance, which we find in sculp- 
 ture of that description in Britain. The statues 
 of English workmanship, in St Paul's and West- 
 minster Abbey, w^ould appear heavy, unwieldy, and 
 inelegant, contrasted with the modern statues 
 by Canova and Thorwaldson which may be seen in 
 Rome. Many of their works are purchased by the 
 British nobility, but to form an accurate judgment 
 of the talent of these great artists, their various 
 productions should be seen, and not those in one 
 department only. 
 
326 
 
 canova's sculpture. 
 
 In offering an opinion of Canova's statues, I 
 would say, that his principal fault seems to be, in- 
 troducing familiar nature in subjects which should 
 have the elevation of ideal beauty. In two of his 
 Muses, for instance, which he has lately finished, 
 we think we can trace the likeness of persons 
 whom we have seen and know ; in short, they have 
 too much of the appearance of portraits, which 
 certainly diminishes the interest, as far as they are 
 intended to represent beings of a higher order ; 
 there is sometimes, too, the appearance of affec- 
 tation in his style. In his celebrated group 
 of THE Graces, delicacy seems to be carried 
 too far, and almost amounts to insipid childish- 
 ness, especially in the manner in which the figure 
 on the right presses the head of the figure in 
 the centre, It is delicacy, no doubt ; but of a 
 very silly kind. Canova chiefly excels in fe- 
 male characters, youthful figures, and children^ 
 His men are often heavy, and even somewhat 
 clumsy. His Venus and Adonis, however ; 
 his Cupid and Psyche ; his Magdalene, which 
 conveys the idea of sincere repentance ; the 
 Family of Santa Cruz at the death-bed of their 
 child, remarkable for the expression of grief and 
 holy resignation : these, with many more of his 
 works, stamp him as a man of great refinement of 
 taste and feeling. Canova has not, however, suc- 
 
 ganova's sculpture. 
 
 3^7 
 
 ceeded so well in his figure of Religion, * in which 
 expression of the highest order of beauty, united 
 with parental kindness, was required. The figure is 
 bulky, and the countenance is neither winning nor 
 attractive: the mouth being open, and the eyes 
 turned up and fixed, produces a livid, ghastly, 
 and forbidding aspect; — surely very unlike what 
 the figure of Religion ought to be. The pikes, too, 
 projecting from her head, intended to express 
 celestial rays of glory, have an alarming appear- 
 ance to an approaching sinner. On the opposite 
 side of the tomb is a figure of Fame, extreme- 
 ly beautiful, but perhaps the beau ideal may be ra- 
 ther too refined. Clejvient XIII. himself, above 
 all, kneeling on a cushion on the sarcophagi, is 
 admirable in every respect, and the lions at the 
 bottom of the tomb are quite inimitable. The 
 whole monument, indeed, is an exquisite work of 
 art. It has its faults, no doubt, — ^but what is per- 
 fect? 
 
 To give any idea of the variety of sculpture in 
 Canova's Studio would require a volume, each 
 subject being well entitled to particular descrip- 
 tion. I may, however, give you at least the names 
 of a few. Mars and Venus, for the Prince Re- 
 gent, is certainly an excellent performance. Mars 
 is represented as a powerful youth with a helmet ; 
 
 On the Monument of Clement XIII. in St Peter's, 
 
328 
 
 canova's sculpture. 
 
 Venus reclines upon his shoulder, and is really a 
 chaste and lovely figure. The God of War, indeed, 
 appears to be perfectly conscious of her charms ; it 
 were to be wished, however, that he had not quite 
 so dandy-like an appearance ; his body is certainly 
 too much bent for the line of grace. As a flattering 
 compliment, the Prince's portrait is placed upon 
 
 the shield of Mars. 
 
 Some of Canova's Dancing Figures are light 
 and pretty, though it must be said they approach 
 very near the meretricious action of opera nymphs. 
 His last Venus is more like the Venus of Medicis 
 than his former in the Palazzo Pitti ; but there is 
 an appearance above her breasts, as if she had 
 worn stays. Hebe is light as air: Ajax is a 
 clumsy figure : and Paris seems too short and 
 heavy ; nevertheless, this is an admirable statue. 
 A colossal statue of Napoleon as Victory, is very 
 magnificent : this statue goes to the Duke of 
 Wellington. A reclining Venus, for the Prince 
 Regent, is an exquisite piece of art. Hector, as 
 he ought to be, is a fierce-looking fellow. The- 
 seus AND the Centaur, colossal, will command 
 admiration, though there appears a want of har- 
 mony in the leading lines. Maria Louisa, and 
 Madam Mere, are in excellent taste. The nume- 
 rous busts of people of all nations are full of charac- 
 ter ; yet not superior in that respect to many that I 
 have seenby Chauntiy. Canova's basso relievos rank 
 
 thorwaldson*s sculpture. 
 
 329 
 
 high in art, though they have not contributed 
 greatly to his fame. His drawings in chalk are 
 beautiful and carefully executed, but he should 
 never attempt to paint in oil. A picture which be 
 exhibits in his private room is a vapid and poor 
 performance. 
 
 Thorwaldson's Studio does not offer such a splen- 
 did display of statues as that of Canova's; but 
 the man of taste will find quite enough to con- 
 vince him that to this great artist Canova is the 
 only rival. Priam supporting the Body of his 
 Son, — Briseis led from the Tent of Achil- 
 LEs, — Jason, — Ajax, — Adonis, and Mars, 
 are all noble works ; but certainly not finished 
 with such exquisite delicacy as the statues by 
 Canova. Psyche, Bacchus, and Cupid, his alle- 
 gorical representation of Night, his friezes, espe- 
 cially of the Triumph of Alexander, and other 
 works, are all of transcendent merit. The most 
 of this sculpture is going to England, chiefly for 
 the Duke of Bedford, Lord Lucan, Mr Hope, and 
 Mr Devett. For an accurate knowledge of the 
 beau ideal, or the perfection of nature, whichever 
 you please to call it, united with a keen discri- 
 minating eye for the beauties of the antique, yet still 
 preserving originality, Thorwaldson, especially In 
 his basso-relievos, is superior to Canova, who 
 sometimes appears to copy himself. In examining 
 the works of the fomier, the mind is led to ancient 
 
330 STUDIOS OF CANOVA AND THORWALDSON. 
 
 days of greatness, and seems to catch a portion of 
 that sacred light, which sprung from the genius of 
 Phidias, Praxiteles, and Cleomenes; the latter, 
 on the other hand, presents to you the choicest 
 views of nature, with less acquired knowledge from 
 ancient sources, and perhaps with less refinement of 
 sentiment and delicacy. 
 
 Thestudios, as they are called in Rome, of Canova 
 and Thorw aldson, are ranges of work-shops, filled 
 with various statues in a state of progress; and it is 
 curious to observe what common-looking workmen 
 are employed in blocking out the figure from the 
 model, till it is advanced to that state when Canova 
 himself takes it into his hands to finish. It is so dif- 
 ficult to judge of a block of marble, whether it will 
 be free of specks or blemishes, that it often hap- 
 pens that two or three blocks are begun upon and 
 laid aside as unfit for use, after the figure is con- 
 siderably advanced. The Graces, for the Prince 
 Regent, have a few dark specks, which were not 
 perceived till they were nearly finished ; they cer- 
 tainly do not injure the pure effect of the figures ; 
 but as the Prince Regent was desirous to have 
 them without a spot, the great artist informed us, 
 that he would willingly give 200 or 300 sequins 
 for the removal of each. The sum given to Ca- 
 nova for the group of the Graces is 3000 guineas. 
 
 The gem engravers of Rome, I think, are much 
 upon a level with our own artists in that way; Pick* 
 
 ARCHITECTURE OF ROME. 
 
 331 
 
 1^ is at the head of them The engravers on copper 
 are very far behind the British engravers, both in 
 the historical, scriptural, and landscape depart* 
 ments. That beautiful style of engraving, for the 
 embellishment of books, is quite u^know^ in Italy; 
 ^nd I should suppose, from any thing I have seen 
 on the continent, excepting the works of Morghen, 
 that in copperplate engraving w-e stand unrivalled.* 
 I can offer few remarks on the Roman architec- 
 ture of the present day; for it is a very curious fact, 
 that, in all the cities which we have visited in 
 Italy, we have not seen any building going forward, 
 except a gate at Florence, and one house in the 
 Piazza del Popolo in this city. The architectural 
 drawings, however, which are exhibited in the va- 
 rious academies, are not without talent, and oc- 
 casionally exhibit a little Grecian purity. The 
 Doric and Corinthian orders seem to be the fa- 
 
 • I have lately been miich surprised and delighted with a 
 few engravings of portraits, done by Mr Nicholson, painter in 
 Edinburgh. That ingenious gentleman has done more in 
 that difficult art, in a short time, than any other person; in- 
 deed, when I examine the portrait of Mr Raeburn, and reflect 
 that it is his third or fourth attempt, I confess my astonish- 
 ment has no bounds ; it is full of principle, with the happy 
 effect of concealing the mode of execution, while it presents 
 the excellence of the likeness ; and here I am happy to offer 
 my tribute of praise to Mr Nicholson, as an artist of great 
 ability in portrait-painting, in oil and water colours. 
 
332 
 
 ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 vourite.* This backwardness in building may be 
 supposed to be injurious to the study of practical 
 
 • It is sincerely to be wished, that this were the case in 
 Edinburgh, instead of the rage which displays itself for the 
 Gothic, a style of building seldom referable to good taste. It is 
 likewise to be wished, that there were a connbination of trees^ 
 with the various streets and buildings, as we have found in 
 many of the beautiful cities abroad. How it is, I know not, 
 but our leading people seem to have a dislike to this beauti- 
 ful accompaniment to a fine city. It was a cruel deed to 
 cut down the semicircle of trees, immediately below the 
 New Town, from Canonmills to the Mound which cros>ses the 
 meadow from Dundas Street. I am sure no man of taste was 
 consulted on that occasion. I might mention many other in- 
 stancis of such thoughtless proceeding, were I at all disposed 
 to complain. Towns often owe a great part of their popula- 
 tion to their situation and beauty ; and were the latter pro- 
 perly considered and extended, it might be a means of in- 
 creasing the number of inhabitants, and bringing additional 
 wealth to thecity. Let us hope>therefore, that, before any length 
 of time is elapsed, the whole of the ground between the Old 
 Town and Prince's Stret t, and the Earthen Mound itself, may 
 be beautified with walks and plantations. The ground, too, 
 between Queen Street and Heriot Row, so much the subject 
 of conversation and reproach, is positively offensive to stran- 
 gers and people of taste. 
 
 With regard to the first of these, the varied ground affords an 
 opportunity of placing groups of trees, for combining with ef- 
 fect with the surrounding buildings ; and 1 doubt not» but, in the 
 hands of a man of genius, that small portion of ground might 
 be so laid out, as to add inconceivably to the importance of 
 Edinburgh,*^ in general, in a pictuiesque point of view; and to 
 
 ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 333 
 
 architecture ; but as architecture forms a part of 
 the education of an Italian painter, I should sup- 
 pose, that, though it may languish for a time, it 
 may be very soon revived. 
 
 convert many of the houses, which, at present, are not only des- 
 titute of all interest in the scene, but positively disgusting, into 
 pleasingobjects, from the interest which they would derive. Were 
 the grounds laid out as nursery ground and flower ganlens, they, 
 no doubt, would be more pleasing than in their present disor- 
 derly condition, which nothing but habit can possibly prevent 
 lib from viewing as a nuisance ; but the open unfinished ar- 
 rangement of such gardens would do little more than merely 
 veneer the surface of the earth. In order to accomplish the 
 desired object, trees should be planted in ample abundance, of 
 such a nature as in time to reach the stateliest growth, for 
 shrubs and trees of small magnitude can have no effect in the 
 valley which separates the Old from the New Town. Were 
 the bottom of the valley reserved for walks, interspersed with 
 shrubbery, gradually rising, on each hand, to forest trees judi- 
 ciously varied to suit the romantic and other buildings, two ob- 
 jects would be obtained, — a commanding depth of light and 
 shadow in the hollow, and a substitution of neatness U)r what 
 is now offensive. A similar mode of treatment might be up- 
 plied to the ground which slopes from Queen Street; such, in- 
 deed, as has already taken place at the eastern end. We 
 have reason to be grateful for the liberal provision made for 
 the inhabitants in the beautiful walks in the Meadows, and let 
 us hope that the same spirit which directed the public proceed- 
 ings of the city at that time, may revive in ours, and convert 
 into splendid beauty, open and free to the use of the public, 
 what is now in itself a gross deformity. 
 
LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Pictured in the Gallery of the Vatican.— Michael Angelas 
 Fresco Painting of the Last Judgment^ arid his Creation 
 of Man in the Sistine ChapeL 
 
 The Transfiguration, by Raphael, is said to 
 be the finest picture in the world ; and I cordially 
 agreed in the general admiration of its inimitable 
 drawing, expression, and composition. This, 
 however, is one of those sublime subjects to which 
 human genius is utterly inadequate ; the tnost 
 skilful pencil cannot embody the grand concep- 
 tions, which the description of the Evangelist 
 awakens in every mind ; and if the picture of Ra- 
 phael is not all that we are at first led to expect, it 
 may, perhaps, be all that human art could produce. 
 With this qualification, I would venture, in the 
 spirit, not of candour merely, but of reverence, to 
 animadvert on a few points, in which this wonder- 
 ful master seems to have failed. 
 
 The principal subject of the picture,— the Saviour 
 of the world in celestial glory, accompanied by three 
 chosen disciples, and receiving the homage of the 
 great lawgiver, and the most favoured prophet of the 
 
 TRANSFIGURATION BY RAPHAEL* 
 
 335 
 
 old dispensation, who descended in the radiance of 
 heaven,— is of itself so grand and impressive, that 
 the mind is impatient of any circumstance which can 
 tend to divide its attention and its interest. For this 
 reason, I am inclined to object to the group at the 
 bottom of the mount,— from whom the glorious 
 transaction on its summit was entirely concealed, 
 whom the painter, therefore, has been obliged to 
 represent as utterly unconscious of it,— thus impart- 
 ing to his picture all the disagreeable effect of 
 double plan. The mount, too, seems, neither in 
 height nor in form, to be a theatre sufficiently 
 grand for so august a scene, while, by separating 
 the figures concerned in this scene from the multi- 
 tude below, it divides the painting into two dis- 
 tinct pictures. This defect is more perceptible in 
 the original painting, than in the beautiful engrav- 
 ing by Morghen. In the upper division, the figure 
 of the Saviour certainly wants the dignity with 
 which the imagination invests the Son of God, ap- 
 pearing in the splendour of Divinity— but what 
 painter would not here have failed ? In the lower 
 division, the possessed boy, who has the muscular 
 arms of a Hercules, seems to be greatly convulsed, 
 yet his legs are in a state of rest, and somewhat at 
 variance with the rest of the figure. An arm, pro- 
 jected from a figure behind the father of the luna- 
 tic, is extremely stifF; and on the opposite side of 
 the picture, two arms appear in a line, exactly in 
 
336 
 
 TRANSFIGURATION BY RAPHAEL. 
 
 the same position. The very singularity of this 
 appearance, however, may, perhaps, contribute to 
 the general expression ; for I have observed, that 
 in some of the greatest works of the ancient mas- 
 ters, repetition of attitude is by no means uncom- 
 mon, when simplicity is intended. All the figures 
 are marvellously well drawn and painted, especial- 
 ly the heads and hands ; and the draperies, rounded 
 and finished with the utmost care, are absolutely 
 faultless. I could have wished, however, that the 
 reflected lights in the shadows of the whole paint- 
 ino- had been clearer. They would thus have pro- 
 duced more of the generale of nature : 
 
 *« For shades too dark disscvcrM shapes will give, 
 And sink the parts their softness would relieve/* 
 
 The principal colours are blue, orange, crimson, 
 dusky green, and cool gi-ey. The drapery of the 
 female figure is pink, with a blue robe over her right 
 shoulder. The glazings are done with the local 
 colour of the draperies, and not with brown. It 
 is said, that this magnificent picture has suflered 
 greatly while in the hands of the French, and that, 
 with the exception of the head of the disciple with 
 the book, there is little left entire. The fine im- 
 pasta in several places has been rubbed away. 
 
 The Madonna della Foligna. This picture is, 
 in regard to colouring, and a happy union of all the 
 essential parts, much superior to the Transfiguration, 
 
 GALLERY OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 337 
 
 the whole being painted by Raphael himself. 
 The celestial appearance of the Virgin is one of 
 the happiest efforts of his pencil. She is repre- 
 sented in the skv, surrounded bv a number of 
 cherubs in a circle of golden light. St John and 
 St Francis are on her right, and on her left is seen 
 a cardinal, and an aged man behind him. In the 
 centre appears an angel standing with something 
 like a mirror in his hand, but which formerly 
 had contained an inscription. This figure is per- 
 fect in colouring, and highly impasted; so full and 
 so rich, that it is like flesh itself, seeming as if it 
 would yield to the touch. The face of St Francis 
 beams with light and clearness, and all that be- 
 witching colouring which captivates the mind. 
 This celebrated work might, indeed, form a school 
 of itself, and teach all that is noble in art. Both 
 in the Madonna della Foligna, and the picture of 
 the Transfiguration, the greens used in the re- 
 painting by the French have changed to blue, 
 their yellows having failed. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 This celebrated picture consists of the Virgin 
 Mary and the Infant Jesus, seated in the clouds, 
 and below them appears a Pope with St Cathe- 
 rine, St Sebastian, and other saints. The mas- 
 tery of pencil, admirable colouring, and clair-ob- 
 scure displayed in this painting, may challenge any 
 
 VOL. I. Y 
 
338 
 
 GALLKRY OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 work of art in Italy. It is placed among the works 
 of Raphael, Domenichino, Caravaggio ; and con- 
 trasted with them, furnishes an additional proof 
 of the power of the Venetian style of painting in 
 the hands of Titian. 
 
 In colouring, the works of the other great masters 
 did not appear so chaste and dignified, nor recal such 
 ideas of grandeur through recollections of grave and 
 solemn harmony. The figure of St Catherine is al- 
 most unequalled in grace and delicacy; not even Cor- 
 reggio's Mary Magdalene in Parma appears superior. 
 The purity of feeling perceptible throughout, seems 
 to indicate that Titian must have had some prin- 
 ciple to direct him in such a work of sentiment. 
 It could not have been done by accident, nor 
 could he have found such perfection in connnon 
 nature. Yet lias he in the same picture intro- 
 duced a figure of St Sebastian, beautifully colour- 
 ed to be sure, but stiff, ill drawn, and in other 
 respects unpleasing to the eye. Is it not strange, 
 that the same mighty genius should have pro- 
 duced two figures so extremely opposite in the 
 qualities referable to good design ? The pope, 
 too, and indeed all the other saints except the 
 divine St Catherine, have but a vulgar expression ; 
 but none more so than the pope, who looks gruff 
 and unmannerly, compared with the delicate, the 
 humble St Catherine, standing in the most heart- 
 winning attitude by his side ; indeed, I felt my- 
 
 i. 
 
 GALLERY OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 339 
 
 self so much interested with this heavenly female, 
 that for a time I was in fear lest his holiness might 
 abruptly turn round, and injure her with his pro- 
 digious crozier. In composition, the picture is 
 but imperfect ; the architecture, which is bad, 
 seems to divide the subject in two. St Sebastian 
 appears a spot, and immediately catches the eye, 
 which is so displeased with the meanness of his 
 figure, that it cannot for a time search out for 
 the innumerable beauties in the painting. This 
 picture was repainted, but it is uncertain by 
 whom ; the garments of the pope were mere frip- 
 pery, a thousand petty ornaments destroying the 
 whole effect. This absurdity, however, has been 
 removed, and the broad, masterly, and judicious 
 pencilling of Titian is now unveiled. 
 
 Caravaggio. 
 
 An Interment of Christ. A picture, re^ 
 markable for light and shade, good colouring, 
 roundness, and striking effect ; but the figures 
 have not the smallest appearance of dignity. Ca- 
 ravaggio seems to have kept close to his model in 
 eveiy respect. Joseph of Arimathea is positively 
 disagreeable ; the mother of Christ is represented 
 in the character of an old country-woman, witli 
 her cloak about her ; and the accompanying Marys 
 are in similar taste. The head of our Saviour, from 
 
340 
 
 GALLERY OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 un 
 
 its unnatural projection, wants support, and is 
 pleasing to the eye. 
 
 GuiDo. 
 
 CupjD DETAINING FoRTUNE, the Same subject 
 as that of the picture in the possession of Alex- 
 ander Gordon, Esq. of Edinburgh, by the same mas- 
 ter, but with this difference, that the former holds 
 a crown, the latter a purse in the right hand. It 
 is light and clean, but from what I can recollect 
 of Mr Goi*don's picture, I think his has more 
 tone, * and is in other respects fully more agree- 
 able. 
 
 GUERCINO. 
 
 Christ and Thomas, a rich picture, and broad 
 in its effect, though certainly it wants middle tint, 
 and, from its having no decided reflected lights, is 
 remarkably heavy. The subject, however, is well 
 represented; the surprise of the apostle on the right 
 of our Saviour, especially, is admirably expressed. 
 
 Paul Veronese. 
 
 A Queen meditating before a Cross. A 
 noble piece of colouring, in a low tone. The quiet 
 
 • I have seen few small collections more select than Mr 
 Gordon*s. It has also the advantage of agieeable variety, 
 which is not generally the case with the collections on the 
 continent. 
 
 CALLERY of the VATICAN. 
 
 341 
 
 religious repose, so distinguishable in it, is per- 
 fectly suitable to the subject, and shews that even 
 Paul Veronese could adapt the Venetian style to 
 lofty sentiment. 
 
 Andrea Sacchi. 
 
 A picture, consisting of several Monks in 
 white attire, like that of the Benedictines. This 
 picture is justly celebrated for its good effect, al- 
 though the painter had to contend with great dif. 
 ficulty in the management of so much light. There 
 is no positive colour, except in the faces and hands, 
 and a little yellow and delicate grey in the sky ; 
 the rest of the picture is finished with brown. 
 
 The painting of the Crucifixion of St Peter, 
 by Caravaggio, has his usual good and bad quali- 
 ties ; the lowest nature, however, prevails, 
 
 Guercino. 
 
 Mary Magdalene and Angels, with emblems 
 of the Cross, — full of taste, but I regret its black- 
 ness. There is also another picture by this master 
 of a Warrior, who has assumed the habit of a 
 monk, while the Virgin and Child, beautifully 
 painted, are seen sitting in the sky. The Warrior, 
 from his uncouth appearance, had better remained 
 in the field. 
 
 Domenichino. 
 His famous picture of St Jerome. The dig- 
 
sm 
 
 GALLERY OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 LAST JUDGMENT BY M. ANGELO. 
 
 343 
 
 nified character, the splendid and luminous effect 
 of this picture, must sui-prise every beholder. In 
 expression it is also perfect, and seems, like a cen- 
 tral light, to radiate from the dying Saint, through 
 all the other figures. The Priest in orange drapery 
 is without a fault, and the figure in puqile, sup- 
 posed to be a portrait of Domenichino himself, is 
 worthy of its situation in this sublime production. 
 The back-ground, composed of buildings and trees, 
 is perhaps unrivalled, and classes the painter with 
 Titian in that department of landscape. The 
 print of this magnificent work is in every person's 
 hands. 
 
 Baroccio. 
 
 The Annunciation, a picture of great merit, 
 especially in colouring, somewhat reminds me of 
 Mr Geddes, especially from the bold impasta of 
 the lights, smoothness and clearness in the shadows, 
 and the brilliant, harmonious, and scientific ar- 
 rangement of colours y qualities which never fail to 
 
 please. 
 
 The pictures in the Galleries of the A^atican 
 are few in number ; but two of them rank among 
 the finest pictures in the world, — the Transfi- 
 guration by Raphael, and the St Jerome by Do- 
 menichino. The many religious festivals are said 
 to be much against the painters who attend tlie 
 
 Vatican,* from their being obliged to leave their 
 work when they may be inspired, or have the 
 feeling to proceed in their study. Sometimes 
 there are three festivals in a week. No doubt, 
 interruption is apt to interfere with unity of de- 
 sign ; but the work of copying seems compara- 
 tively so purely mechanical, that it requires no- 
 thing but a knowledge of the art to proceed in a 
 uniform manner ; the hints of genius, on the con- 
 trary, are often so evanescent, that they must be 
 embodied ere they evaporate, or be lost for ever. 
 Even to those interruptions, however, Raphael (if 
 he attended to them) was so superior, that he has 
 been able to preserve the fire of his genius, pure, 
 and as strong as at the first, in works which re- 
 quired years to accomplish, kindling, too, in other 
 bosoms, the glow which animated his own. In- 
 deed, the whole Italian school have laboured under 
 interruptions, arising from fasts and religious cere- 
 monies. Yet it is the only school, the masters of 
 which are still unrivalled. 
 
 SisTiNE Chapel. 
 
 The fresco painting of the Last Judgment by 
 Michael Angelo, in the Capella Sistina, in the 
 
 * A note from Canova entitles a person to study in th^ 
 Vatican, or copy any statue or picture. This privilege is very 
 easily obtained, by persons of any country, from that liberal 
 
 ami enlightened man. 
 
 
ait 
 
 LAST JUDGMEtlT BY M. ANGELO. 
 
 Vatican, is one of those works which seem princi- 
 pally to address the learned few. In its present 
 state, it is wanting in many of those fascinating qua- 
 lities which attract the untutored eye ; for, although 
 the judgment of both, as the philosophic Barry 
 observes, *• may be the same, the attention of the 
 one spectator is employed upon what the picture 
 possesses, of the other, upon what it wants." 
 
 The colouring, from various causes, has little to 
 recommend it. The different groupes of figures, 
 many of which are incomparably fine, are of a dusky 
 red, and surrounded with a cold monotonous blue, 
 which produces an unpleasing effect. The com- 
 position, consisting of four rows of figures rising 
 above each other, ofiers no repose to the eye, and 
 as little to the mind, when it traces the singulari- 
 ties and inconsistencies with which this great work 
 abounds, from the figure under the column at the 
 top of the painting, to Charon in his boat below. 
 It is likewise evident, that Michael Angelo does 
 not always adapt an appropriate character to his 
 subject. The short necks and raised shoulders of 
 many of his figures, especially of our Saviour, St 
 Peter, and the figures to the right of Christ, may 
 convey the idea of strength, but not of dignity. 
 The mode, too, in which some of the infernal 
 spirits are represented as inflicting pain, forms a 
 very unseemly ornament for the altar-piece of a 
 church. There surely might have been some other 
 
 LAST JUDGMENT BY M. ANGELO. 
 
 345 
 
 less indecent method of conveying the idea of 
 torture. The prevailing appearance, likewise, of 
 great bodily strength in all the figures, even to 
 those issuing from their graves, with their heavy 
 coats of muscles upon them, is but little compa- 
 tible with the spiritual world. And. what could 
 have induced that great artist to have mixed 
 Heathen mythology with the truths of Scripture ? 
 Surely Charon wafting the souls of the dead over 
 Cocytus is out of place in a Christian temple. The 
 fire, too, which is intended to represent infernal 
 flames, would hardly boil a kettle. 
 
 But all this is the mere small talk of criticism. 
 Michael Angelo soars far above occasional inaccura- 
 cy of pencil or of thought. He is the Homer of paint- 
 ing ; and none but a Zoilus would chuse to dwell 
 on slight defects, which are eclipsed by the splen- 
 dour of innumerable and unrivalled beauties. The 
 ingenious mind will rather take pleasure in de- 
 riving improvement from these inexhaustible trea- 
 sures and astonishing combinations, which exhibit 
 the most energetic mind fraught with the noblest 
 conceptions of the sublime. Like the Iliad or the 
 Paradise Lost, this stupendous work is not to be 
 appreciated by a glance. The more it is examined 
 and studied, the more will the grasp and compre- 
 hension of the master's mind appear. The original- 
 ity of his composition and foreshortening is endless, 
 and almost perplexes the mind by the vast diver- 
 
3iG 
 
 LAST JUDGMENT BY M. ANGKLO. 
 
 LAST JUDGMENT BY M. ANGELO. 
 
 347 
 
 sity of attitudes the most difficult to express. Then, 
 too, when we consider that this great man was the 
 first who dashed into the regions of sublimity, and 
 (I speak of his works in general) that it was he 
 who illumined the soul of Raphael, and taught the 
 world ideal grandeur, it almost appears a sacrilege 
 to presume to criticise his works. He who looks 
 on the Creation of Man on the roof of the Sistine 
 Chapel, must confess, that in dignity, beauty, ori- 
 ginality, variety, and I may add colouring, "^ it has 
 no equal. It is here that successive generations 
 Lave been inspired, and taught to venerate the name 
 of Michael Angelo. 
 
 But to return to the picture of the Last Judg- 
 ment, it is greatly to be regretted, that it is likely 
 to be entirely ruined by the smoke of the nume- 
 rous torches which are lighted upon particular oc- 
 casions ; unfortunately, too, the restorers have been 
 at work upon it, and have scratched away the dusky 
 veil of time and accident, from between the groupes 
 of figures, leaving about an inch or two of its for- 
 mer state round each of them. 
 
 This sacrilegious proceeding has destroyed the 
 
 * The back-grounds of the figures arc of a reddish pearly 
 grey, a colour vvhich harmonizes well with the orange greens, 
 and delicate carnations of the painting. The Last Judg- 
 ment, in point of colouring, is not to be compared xvith the 
 creation of man, and in some degree realizes the maxim, that 
 what docs not please the eye, will not readily gratify the mind. 
 
 unity of the whole, and the figures which do not 
 seem to be touched, have acquired a heavy patched 
 appearance, which they would not have had, if the 
 general hue of darkness had been allowed to re- 
 main over the whole painting. That general din- 
 giness, though it could not improve the picture as 
 finished by the inimitable artist, could not have 
 greatly injured its character of sublimity. 
 
 The lower part of the painting, however, is ex- 
 tremely grand, and the groupes of the second and 
 the female figures in the third range are astonish- 
 ingly fine. Comparing the Last Judgment with the 
 Creation of Man, and the accompanying figures 
 on the roof, the preference will be given to the 
 latter ; though, perhaps, there is in the former 
 more originality or extraordinary invention. The 
 general character of both, as, indeed, that of all 
 his works, even to his Sybils, and other female 
 figures, is grandeur, seemingly arising from size, 
 form, and strength, more than from any superiori- 
 ty of mental expression. 
 
 t1ML-gfi«afBajaja"'tf'tai« jidit.SiSsBitfSi'^^it 
 
LETTER XXIX. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Character of the Pope.^His Situation. — His Holiness s xvish 
 to establish a Catholic Bishop at CorJiu-^Mode of Intro- 
 duction to the Pope.-^Exiled Literari/ Persons.—State of 
 Papal Revenue IHll. — Cardinal Ruffb.^CardinalFesch — 
 
 Dissatisfaction in the creating of a number of Cardinals. — 
 Vatican Librari/.— Propaganda Fide.—Rcstoration of An- 
 cient MS. to Germany.-— Libraries.— Dr Sebastians re- 
 searches. 
 
 The present Pope Chiaramonti is of a noble 
 family, his manners those of a well-bred gentleman, 
 and his deportment exhibits much of that mildness 
 which is depicted in his countenance. He is li- 
 beral and friendly to the reform of abuses, though, 
 on some points, he retains his early prejudices, 
 which, perhaps, he may have imbibed when in mo- 
 nastic orders. 
 
 His minister, Gonsalvi, is a man of enlighten- 
 ed views, which have rendered him obnoxious 
 to the College of Cardinals in 18 17- Ten car- 
 dinals, with the Cardinal Dean at their head, 
 demanded an audience, (which cannot be refused 
 to a cardinal,) to remonstrate against certain re- 
 fonns proposed by Gonsalvi in the law depart- 
 ments, and desiring the dismissal of that minister. 
 The Pope was somewhat alaimed at the number 
 and individual importance of the persons who so- 
 
 12 
 
 SITUATION OF THE POPE. 
 
 3i9 
 
 iicited it, but was not intimidated into any aban- 
 donment of his minister ; the effect, however, of 
 this and other combinations, has been feh in para- 
 lyzing the efforts which had reform for their object. 
 The papal throne is indeed at this time no 
 tranquil seat ; a part of the people of the country 
 are still smitten with the principles of revolution- 
 ary France ; other classes urge the reconsecration 
 of every instrument of superstition. Without is a 
 foreign power, Austria, which, after having acquired 
 nearly the whole of Italy, looks to the possibility of 
 the acquisition of the remainder ; and, in fact, the 
 language held out to the sovereign pontiff from that 
 quarter, has been, since the Congress of Vienna, 
 sufficiently imperious. Among the political specu- 
 lators in Italy, it was contemplated as probable, 
 that the temporal possessions of the pope were 
 destined to become, within a short time, a province 
 of the Austrian dominions, and the suggestion 
 was received among the Romans with that ex- 
 pressive shrug, which always accompanies in Italians 
 the notion of a German master. There are to be 
 found, notwithstanding, those, who think the dig- 
 nity of the papal chair still sufficient to confer 
 lustre on the noble families who are allied to it ; 
 and a smile of marked satisfaction played on the 
 aged cheeks of the Duke of Chiaramonti, the elder 
 brother of Pius VII. when assured by a friend of 
 ours, that it was impossible to mistake liis famil};. 
 
350 MODE OF INTRODUCTION TO THE POPE. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO THE POPE. 
 
 351 
 
 Since his smile must remind any one of his holi- 
 ness. 
 
 The territorial acquisitions of Enj^land in the 
 Italian seas, have introduced ecclesiastical subjects 
 of discussion between our governors and the court 
 of Rome. Malta has a Catholic prelacy, and Sir 
 Thomas Maitland has been engaged in a negocia- 
 tion with the pope, arising out of the desire of the 
 latter for the appointment of a Catholic Archbishop 
 at Corfu. In order to create, as might be suppos- 
 ed, a better prospect of success, the court of Rome 
 offered to allow Sir T. Maitland to appoint an 
 Archbishop of his own choice, their anxiety being 
 to secure, though at the expence of such a con- 
 cession, the creation of the establishment. The 
 number of Catholics, however, at Corfu, was so 
 small, that the British governor considered such 
 an appointment as unnecessary. 
 
 On occasions when the English have been in- 
 troduced to him, the pope has taken the oppoituni- 
 ty to say flattering things respecting the English 
 character. The number of introductions, — for few 
 Enorlishmen return from Rome without haviiijj 
 been introduced, if he is at that time in Rome, — 
 cannot fail to be buithensome to his holiness. As 
 England has had, since the Reformation, no accre- 
 dited minister at the Roman court, the introduction 
 of the English has usually devolved on some one of 
 the Scotch or Irish Ecclesiastics of the Catholic 
 Church resident at Rome. Abbe Grant of the 
 
 
 Scotch College long performed that office. The 
 person to whom it now belongs is Abbe Taylor, 
 an Irishman. To this gentleman you signify your 
 wish, for the gratification of which, you have, how- 
 ever, frequently to wait some time, as his list is, in 
 the full season, very numerous, and the pope re- 
 ceives only seven strangers at one time, and many 
 diiys often elapse between one reception day and 
 the next. 
 
 The necessary equipment is a court dress, 
 sword, &c. according to instructions from Abbe 
 Taylor ; persons who have a claim to it may go 
 in uniform, naval or military, and many do this 
 who have no claim. The uniform of a naval lieu- 
 tenant had got into the hands of a Roman tailor, 
 who had let it out, for the occasion of an intro- 
 duction to the pope, to so many of our country- 
 men, tliat it was nearly as well known at the 
 Vatican as the habit of a Cardinal would be, and 
 the navy lieutenant was a standing joke at Rome. 
 To shew how often a military habit was assumed, 
 persons who vv€re at most only officers of local 
 militia, or had perhaps even less connection with 
 military affairs, I may mention the following anec- 
 dote. A post captain in the British service, a friend 
 of ours, on his return from one of the introductions, 
 told us that the Abbe Taylor, judging from all his 
 flock being habited in naval and military uniforms, 
 introduced the whole seven to his holiness, as per- 
 
 ■jHfejC-jSri 
 
INTRODUCTION TO THE POPE. 
 
 sons whose arms had assisted in his restoration : 
 " Santo padre hanno combattate per terra e per 
 mare." Our friend was, however, after all, the only 
 one in the party who was not a civilian. 
 
 Wlien the seven persons who are to form that 
 day's party are all arrived at Abbe Taylor's, they 
 set out for the Vatican, where they are first intro- 
 duced by Cardinal Gonsalvi, and then, being first 
 desired to divest themselves of their swords, are 
 conducteil by the abbe to the presence of the pope. 
 Nothing can contrast more strongly with the pomp 
 and circumstance of a royal levee than this scene. 
 The pope sits in a sort of study at his table writing, 
 with some books near him, his dress being quite a 
 dishabille, somewhat like a flannel dressing gown. 
 When the visitors enter, he rises and comes for- 
 ward to the circle, and commences conversation, 
 generally preceding it with something compli- 
 mentaiy to the English character, and his high 
 esteem for the nation. He observed to a friend of 
 mine, that when he first came as a student to 
 Rome, he scarcely remembered one chimney in 
 the city, but that now he could count nearly 100 ; 
 this he attributed to the British residents. He 
 particularly mentioned his obligations to the Eng- 
 lish nation for the restoration of so many of the 
 works of art recovered to Rome at their expence. 
 The period for remaining in the papal presence is 
 vai'ious, but generally not exceeding half an hour. 
 
 ITALIAN PHYSICIANS. 
 
 35S 
 
 Some English ladies procured the honour of an in- 
 troduction, and wore black veils on the occasion. 
 
 We have often met his holiness taking his 
 favourite walk near the Coliseum. His morning 
 dress is a scarlet mantle, a scarlet hat, with a very 
 broad brim, edged with gold, scarlet stockings 
 and shoes. When he is met by the Romans, they 
 invariably fall on their knees, and he gives them 
 his blessing. The British stand, and take off 
 their hats, and their bows are graciously returned. 
 On one of his walks, the pope threw some money 
 on the road among some poor people, and to our 
 surprise, they scrambled and fought for it as soon 
 as his back was turned. * 
 
 Among literary persons, and in the liberal pro- 
 fessions, particularly the medical, both at Rome 
 and elsewhere in Italy, an attachment prevails 
 to the principles of the French revolutionists, both 
 in religion and politics. Italian physicians, exiles 
 from their country for an adherence to repub- 
 lican notions, generally retire to the continent of 
 Greece, or various parts of the Levant. The 
 study of physic is by no means held in that esteem 
 or respect which it meets with in Britain. The 
 
 • His holiness's carriage, which is a plain crazy-looking 
 machine, drawn by six horses, with riders in purple livery, 
 always follows hinu 
 
 VOL. I. Z 
 
354> 
 
 CARDINALS RUFFO, FESCH. 
 
 fees given to medical men are small, and few of 
 the profession can be said to be men of wealth. 
 
 The papal revenues are considered as improving, 
 even under the expence incurred in the accom- 
 modation given to the Austrian troops passing 
 through the country, to and from the kingdom of 
 Naples, which those troops occupy till the restored 
 king is firmly seated in his government. 
 
 No fewer than three members of the Doria fami- 
 ly are in the sacred college, an uncle and two ne- 
 phews. Cardinal RufFo, the celebrated leader of 
 the Calabrian insurrection, resided in one of the 
 palaces in Rome. He had much of the barbarian 
 in him, and his campaigns resembled those of a 
 Guerilla chief ; at Rome, he hardly ever stirs out 
 of his palace. Cardinal Fesch is an object of some 
 curiosity from his being the uncle of Napoleon. He, 
 too, leads a life of much privacy, which was ren- 
 dered advisable by the suspicious, and not very be- 
 nign eye, with which he was viewed under the 
 change of circumstances at the Vatican. He is 
 not esteemed as a man of talent ; but his sleek face 
 indicates some fondness for convivial pleasures, the 
 indulgence of which has subjected him to the gout, 
 to which the rest of the family of the ex-emperor 
 are strangers. The fortunes of his extraordinary 
 nephew had placed honours within his reach, be- 
 fore those of every member of the family. Fesch, 
 at one time, filled the meanest ecclesiastical si- 
 
 SUPPORT OF CARDINALS. 
 
 355 
 
 tuations in Rome. When the insalubrity of the 
 summer season in this city makes the Romans re- 
 tire to their country villas, almost all the clergy 
 follow the emigration ; their place within the walls 
 is supplied, and the offices of the church are admini- 
 stered, by those of them who are in the greatest 
 indigence, (generally found among the priests 
 from Corsica,) and who can be tempted by the 
 offered hire. Fesch, it is said, was long in this needy 
 and mercenary class. 
 
 Considerable dissatisfaction was created at Rome 
 by the number of cardinals appointed on the 
 return of the pope, as the new cardinals cost 
 the public treasury a sum which could not well be 
 spared. Four thousand crowns a-year is the low- 
 est salary allotted to any who holds this office ; and, 
 at this time, 10,000 or 12,000 crowns is not un- 
 usually the amount. Owing to the suppression in so 
 many countries of the benefices, from which their 
 incomes were derived, some of the old cardinals 
 are left almost without any income from extrinsic 
 sources, and a considerable number of the new are 
 likewise without the incomes required. In this 
 case, a cardinal is authorized to draw upon the 
 papal treasury for four thousand crowns an- 
 nually; and this sum, which, in former times, 
 was never wanted, and therefore never demand- 
 ed, has, within the last three years, been drawn 
 by numbers of the new cardinals. This cir- 
 
356 
 
 LIBRARIES. 
 
 cumstance made the creation of so many of these 
 dignitaries an unpopular act at Rome. It is true, 
 that the sacred college was in 1815 reduced to 
 twenty-nine members, but this number has been 
 more than doubled by successive creations between 
 that time and 181 7. There are four Catholic 
 powers, — Spain, Austria, France, and Portugal, — 
 which have the right each of excluding one cardi- 
 nal from being pope, provided they impose the veto 
 previous to his election; they therefore endeavour 
 to find out who is likely to be the object of the 
 choice of the sacred collejje wliile the conclave is 
 sitting, that if it should fall upon a person disagree- 
 able to them, their negative may be interposed in 
 time. Each of these powers can name four hats ; 
 and if they ask more, they generally obtain them. 
 
 The Vatican library is closed during the sum- 
 mer; at other times it is open from nine in the morn- 
 ing till noon, — Sundays and Thursdays excepted. 
 The Collegium de Propaganda Fide had in the be- 
 ginning of 18 17 no students, so dieadfully had its 
 revenues suffered during the preceding years ; the 
 printing-press is going on, but the number of books 
 printed is small, owhig to tlu^ late disastrous times. 
 Many of the books which dvc set down in this so- 
 ciety's catalogue as printed at their press, were 
 not to be procured, but a hope was expressed that 
 they would soon be reprinted. 
 
 In 1815, the King of Prussia was instigated by 
 
 LIBRARIES. 
 
 557 
 
 Baron William Humboldt, the brother of the cele- 
 brated traveller, and a zealous cultivator of ancient 
 literature, to solicit the pope to restore to Ger- 
 many a num])er of ancient manuscripts, of which 
 that country had been despoiled by the Swedes 
 in the thirty years' war, and with which Christi- 
 na, on her conversion to the Romish faith, had 
 enriched the library of the Vatican. This re- 
 quest, made at a period so favourable to its being 
 acceded to, as the termination of a war, which 
 restored Pius to his papal throne, was not re- 
 fused; and several of the German universities have 
 profited from the compliance. The lovers of let- 
 ters must be pleased at the transference of so much 
 literary we-dth from Italy, into the hands of the in- 
 dustrious scholars and critics of Germany. 
 
 All the libraries of Italy are opened with great 
 liberality to strangers, and are indeed much fre- 
 quented by natives. This latter circumstance might 
 create a supposition, that a passion for literature 
 is more general in the country than it actually is ; 
 but it mu^t be remembered, that very few private 
 persons in Italy possess any collections of books, 
 so that the necessary resort is to the public libra- 
 ries.* Some of the scientific men complain of the 
 
 * In Home Uie library called the Minerva is open from 8 to 
 11 in the mornini;, and from 2 to half-past 3 in the afternoon ; 
 ifiat of St AugUbtino from 8 to 12; Sepienza from 8 to 11, and 
 in the afternoon from 1 till 1 ; Collegio Romano from Q till 1 ; 
 
i 
 
 358 
 
 DOCTOR SEBASTIANI. 
 
 discouragement shewn to their inquiries by the 
 state, which regards, as they allege, with some 
 suspicion their physical investigations. Dr Sebas- 
 tian!, the Botanical Professor, is said to be a man 
 of considerable research and quickness ; he is col- 
 lectino: the materials for a Flora, which will illus- 
 trate many passages in the classics, besides enlarg- 
 ing our information in the particular object of his 
 studies. 
 
 and the Corsini from 10 till 1 : the two last require an in- 
 troduction, which is very easily obtained. All the other 
 libraries are supported by government. The books are not 
 given out; they must be read within the rooms of the library, 
 where there is every convenience and accommodation. For 
 admission to the Vatican library a very particular introduc- 
 tion is required. 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Indolence of the Roman Nobility, — Its causes, — Malaria,'— 
 Education of the Noblemen, — Their xuant of dignity, — 
 
 Morals of the Women Cavalieri Serventi. — Education of 
 
 the Girls, — They go more to foreign society than formerly, — 
 British Ladies do not associate much tvith the Italian La* 
 dies, — Duke of B — *s Routes. — Dress of the Italian Ladies. — 
 Their Manners contrasted tvith those of Women of other 
 Nations, — Conversation Room. — Gaming Room,''-~Music 
 Room. — English Lounging Parties. 
 
 1 HERE is no peculiarity in Roman manners, which 
 is more apt to excite the surprise and the contempt 
 of strangers, particularly Britons, than the indo- 
 lence of the nobility and principal gentlemen. 
 Yet there are circumstances in their political condi- 
 tion, which, when duly considered, convert our sur- 
 prise into compassion, and transfer our indignant 
 contempt from these degraded orders themselves, 
 to the unwise and oppressive government by which 
 they are held enthralled. 
 
 To proprietors of land, the country can present 
 but few attractions, when industry is repressed by 
 limitations which rob the agriculturist of the pro- 
 
360 
 
 INDOLENCE OF THE ROMAN NOBILITY. 
 
 fits of his labour, and thus diminish to the land- 
 lords the value of their estates. A Roman noble- 
 man, were he to reside among his tenantry, woidd 
 find himself in the midst of wretchedness which 
 he could not relieve, — of poverty, by which, with- 
 out the pleasure of being generous, he was himself 
 impoverished. He would see his lands lying 
 waste, because there was no inducement to culti- 
 vate them, when the produce, without meliorating 
 the condition of the cultivator, was only to enrich 
 the coffers of a rapacious government ; and would 
 be solicited by a penurious peasantry for a reduc- 
 tion of rents, already too scanty to maintain an 
 establishment suitable to his rank. 
 
 It is not to be wondered, therefore, that they 
 should have no pleasure in field sports, in niral 
 amusements, in planting, gardening, or improving 
 their estates. Renovation must here be^in with the 
 court. When the oppressive hand of power is re- 
 moved from the husbandman, and he is encouraged 
 to labour, by the liberty of carrying his produce to 
 the most advantageous market, and the security of 
 enjoying, at least, the principal share of his profits, 
 Italy will assume a new aspect ; the lands which 
 are now left uncultivated, engendering in their 
 neglected marshes the dreaded malaria, will soon 
 be "drained, and become salubrious and productive ; 
 and the nobility, finding their seats the centre of 
 improvement and comfort, will learn to take plea- 
 
 TIlEIll IMrEllFECT EDUCATION, 
 
 361 
 
 sure in occupations which are exalting them, by 
 the increase of their revenues, in the scale of 
 society.* 
 
 It is truly deplorable to see the Campagna 
 Romana, a tract containing nearly a million of 
 acres, left, not only a useless waste, but the ne- 
 glected abode of that subtile enemy, which is per- 
 petually extending its baneful influence, and has 
 now advanced to the very walls of Rome. What 
 can rouse a government to a sense of its own in- 
 terest, which looks, with apparent indifference, on 
 the spread of a pestilence, that is rapidly depopu- 
 lating its territories, and involves high and low in 
 one common danger ? 
 
 The imperfect manner in which the nobility of 
 Rome are educated, is likewise to be ascribed to the 
 state of depression, in which they are kept by the 
 policy of the court. Rigidly excluded from all 
 offices of honour and emolument, which are en- 
 tirely engrossed by the priests, they have no in- 
 ducement to cultivate those branches of literature 
 and science, which would enable them to distinguish 
 themselves among their countrymen, and qualify 
 them for becoming able statesmen and politicians. 
 To pass away life in the gayest, easiest manner, 
 
 * Besides many other restrictions on the corn market, a 
 tax of eighteen per cent, is imposed by government on all 
 agricultural produce, exported from the Roman territory, ex- 
 cept to the province of Bologna. 
 
S6-2 
 
 LAXITY OF MORALS. 
 
 EDUCATION OF THE GIRLS. 
 
 363 
 
 seems the grand object, to which they believe that 
 all their education ought to be directed. Gallant- 
 ry, intriguing, gaming, and fiddling, are, there- 
 fore, their favourite accomplishments ; and their 
 character is marked by all the frivolity and mean- 
 ness, which are the natural result of such an educa- 
 tion, and such circumstances. 
 
 From their number, many of them are miserably 
 poor ; yet, too proud to engage in any honourable 
 pursuit, they become indolent dependents and 
 sycophants. They will let their palaces and 
 houses, and generally endeavour to take advan- 
 tage of a stranger, if they are not bound by a 
 written agreement ; it would be folly to trust to 
 their honour. I speak of the mass ; no doubt, 
 there are many upright and virtuous individuals 
 amonoj them, but almost none who have that disr- 
 nity of character, which we find in the same class 
 in England. 
 
 Their whole system of morals, both with the 
 men and women, is well known to be highly 
 reprehensible, and greatly at variance with our 
 views of correct conduct: one would think they 
 made scarcely any distinction between virtue and 
 vice. Domestic comfort there can be little, and, 
 I should think, as little affection. The husband 
 must be uncertain, whether the children that his 
 wife presents to him, be his own. She is never 
 without her cavaliere servente at her toilette, or in 
 
 ^ 
 
 her airings in the Corso, * attending to all her ca- 
 pricious whims. The husband, a cavaliere ser- 
 vente himself, performs the same offices to other 
 women. Is it not disgraceful, that men of rank 
 should be thus employed, instead of attending to the 
 general good of their country ? 
 
 Ladies of the higher class seldom nurse their 
 own children, nor do they occupy themselves with 
 their education. The boys are educated by the 
 priests, and the education of the girls is left to 
 the nuns of a convent, who, from their situa- 
 tion in life, cannot be well informed ; they read 
 no books but those of their religion. Preju- 
 dice and superstition form part of their creed, 
 and are enjoined as indispensable to the true Ca- 
 tholic. But what must the girls think of those 
 rules of self-denial which they are taught, or even 
 of religion itself, when they perceive the conduct 
 of their parents ? Must they not suppose them 
 fetters assumed merely for a time, which they are 
 at liberty to cast away at the moment of freedom, 
 the happy period of marriage and cicisbeism ? 
 
 The girls did not formerly mix in society ; but, 
 in consequence of the number of strangers with their 
 families who go to the semi-Italian society, the 
 Duchess of F— 's, the Duke of B— 's, (Torlonia the 
 banker,) R — 's, &c. they occasionally appear ; but 
 
 The Corso is the principal street. 
 
SCri 
 
 DUKE OF B — S KOUTES. 
 
 it does not seem that the young people form any in- 
 timacy with each otlier. The English ladies, in par- 
 ticular, with few exceptions, keep at a very respect- 
 able distance, perhaps too much so, * for with all 
 their extraordinary conduct and customs, the best 
 of the Italian women, who mingle in society with 
 strangers, are far from being immodest or unpolite 
 in their manners. 
 
 At Torlonia's, the Duke of B , one of the 
 
 principal resorts of the English, a suite of rooms 
 is appropriated to different games, (faro, cards, 
 &c.) music, conversation, and promenading. The 
 Duchess is extremely gracious and polite in her 
 manners, mingling among stars, ribbons, and dia- 
 monds, with great facility, conversing with ladies of 
 various nations, with a cardinal, t a prince, an am- 
 bassador, an English nobleman, or a Greek, with 
 considerable spirit and address. The Italian prin- 
 cesses and nobility are not remarkably splendid or 
 imposing in their appearance. I have seen a group 
 of them sitting together, and they might have 
 
 "This, it has been said, proceeds from their not knowing 
 the languages sufiiciently tor conversation, and 1 am the 
 more convinced of tliis, as I pcrciive that those few British 
 ladies who spiak Italian fluently, are very much in ihtir society. 
 
 t Not above three or four of the cardinals go into society, 
 and these are centured by the very strict ones. If at an en- 
 tertainment where a ball is to be given, they retire when it 
 commences. Gonsalvi, the prime minister, is the only cardinal 
 who invites stranijcrs to dinner. 
 
 DRESS AND MANNERS OF ITALIAN LADIES. 365 
 
 been mistaken for people of a very middling rank 
 in life. I should, however, mention that they 
 were considerably advanced in age ; the younger 
 women of rank are occasionally very magnificent, 
 wearing a profusion of diamonds. There is, how- 
 ever, always something wrong. Like their palaces, 
 they exhibit too great a profusion of ornament, not 
 in the purest taste ; a certain tawdry, untidy cha- 
 racter prevails more or less in all. 
 
 Naked arms and bosoms, and short petticoats, are 
 not in favour in the Italian circles. Indeed, I re- 
 member a little censure was passed upon a young 
 stranger, who appeared at a party rather too much in 
 a state of nature; and I believe some time elapsed 
 before it could be believed, that the innocent crea- 
 ture was perfectly modest. The multiplicity of these 
 seminudes, however, appearing from the same na- 
 tion, removed the prejudice ; but the Roman ladies 
 have not adopted the fashion. Neither do the Italian 
 women mount the backs of the filthy guides, who 
 shew the dark and subterraneous places, such as the 
 Grotto of the Sybil on Lake Avernus. Nor do 
 they elbow and battle, laying aside all female deli- 
 cacy, among the crowd, to obtain situations at the 
 public spectacles. Italian ladies might perhaps act 
 differently abroad. People remaining but a short 
 time in a place must exert themselves, and conse- 
 quently may often appear to disadvantage in their 
 eagerness to see public sights, and to obtain in- 
 
366 
 
 AFFABILITY OF ITALIAN MANNERS. 
 
 formation, while the same people might be perfect- 
 ly correct at home. 
 
 The Roman ladies, when they get together in 
 private, or in the drawing-room, speak very loud, not 
 in the most agreeable tone of voice, and with consi- 
 derable action and expression. The talldng-room^ 
 for conversation is seldom there, unless you allow a 
 few detached sentences and remarks to be such, is 
 more amusing to the eye than the ear. The general 
 buzz of various languages and voices is not referable 
 to any thing very refined. Many of the Roman 
 ladies are rather elegant in their manners, without 
 that fidgeting and restless disposition which is often 
 perceptible in our British circles. Some of our 
 pretty belles, I perceived, were squeezing here, 
 and edging there, for the dues of the evening, 
 and Bella! Bellissima ! might be heard from 
 the Italian noblemen in an undertone of voice, as 
 they stood in groupes, or sat in the hollow of the 
 windows. In comparing our own countrywomen 
 with the Roman ladies in courtly parties, they 
 have beyond all doubt greatly the advantage in 
 point of beauty, and dignity of carriage ; but the 
 Italian women have a gentle softness of manner, 
 perfectly free of hauteur or self-sufficiency; their 
 walking step is easy, without that start or tread, 
 which perhaps bears too much the character of con- 
 fidence. 
 
 The cutting system (as it is called in Britain) is 
 
 
 GAMING.ROOAr.-MUSIC.ROOJI. 367 
 
 quite unknown in Rome. Poorer relations and 
 fnends may safely look up to the richest, wthout 
 be ng repulsed by the frown of disdain. The frol 
 look of a colder climate is unknown in Italy H„ ^ 
 beaut ful and erafpf,,! .v ; . , ^' "°*^ 
 
 fn .» f " ^'^ '"^ benevolent mind 
 
 to see even those of low condition step up Ih 
 confidence and kiss the hand of « ^ ^ 
 of meetintr „,vi, • ** P""'^^' secure 
 
 r nieetmg with gracious smiles! This o-enera? 
 urbanity and propriety of feeli„. adm ts of T 
 particular sets, and eyein<. .elfish 7 
 ties • nnr ;<, J "' "' qu'zzmt? par- 
 
 th.ng IS also required from the guests 
 
 Ihe faro and other gaming tables offer excellenf 
 opportunities for the study of physioJomT ^ 
 ture, generally mistress of herself . °^\ ^^^ 
 
 various grimaces and Tffl . 1 ^^'"^ *''™"S'^ 
 a ""aces and affected smiles, which nnnrl,. 
 
 h.de the emotions of the soul. Person, of In 
 ranks, nations, sexes, and ages, flock abol th 
 -d dignity and polished ^aniers gi " ^'^^^^^ 
 anxious eagerness and hurried action quite unbe 
 
 are seldom noticed among heaps of gold. It at 
 
 ;r.f.rLr ■■"'■■* "r»" •'.° ^« *; 
 
368 
 
 VOCAL MUSIC OF ITALY. 
 
 what may appear to you a little singular, the 
 perfoniiers are attended to, and can be heard, 
 without the accompaniment of whispering and end- 
 less talking. The music is pleasingly varied, 
 but the Bvffo style is the favourite with the Ita- 
 lians. Little applause is given, even should a 
 Duchess play ; but I recollect when an old super- 
 annuated male Soprano, not unlike a large ba- 
 boon, sat grinning at the piano-forte, accompa- 
 nied by a bass and fiddle, eveiy one laughed, 
 every one was delighted, though sing he did not ; 
 he merely talked to the instrument in a low tone 
 of voice, and occasionally raised his head with a 
 satyr-looking expression ; and when he concluded, 
 bravos and expressions of applause resounded 
 from every mouth : some of the audience, indeed, 
 must have had very long ears, to have heard his 
 almost inaudible voice, at the distance from whence 
 the shouts of praise proceeded. For my part, I 
 could not hear a single syllable, being near tlie 
 door ; yet all around me were testifying their ap- 
 
 probation. The Countess M. played such 
 
 sweet and tender strains upon the harp ; * and the 
 
 • I }»avc often observea that the business of screwing 
 and tuning is rarely practised in the presence of an Italian 
 audience ; perhaps the air may not have the same influence 
 upon the strings as in colder climates; it certainly is a happy 
 
 relief from that tiresome proceeding. 
 
 1 
 
 ITALIAN COMPARED WITH SCOTISH SONGS. S69 
 
 Countess C sung such heart-touching me- 
 
 lodies, that, to this hour, I grudge the little old 
 Italian Soprano the commendation which was la- 
 vished on him. 
 
 All Europe allows to Italy the decided superio- 
 rity in vocal music ; and it certainly is exquisitely 
 pleasing, not only from the very great beauty of 
 composition, but from the sensibility with which 
 It is sung. Partial as I am to our own melodies, 
 I must not compare them with those of Italy ; nor 
 is our language, or any language, so admirably 
 fitted for giving effect to musical sounds. Yet 
 when one examines the words to which the greater 
 part of their melodies are sung, it is impossible not 
 to regret the great inequality of the match, for 
 they are as destitute of poetry as the ditties of 
 Vauxhall, and silly in the extreme. To what 
 an immeasurable height does Burns soar above 
 the versemen of Italy ! and if his heart-touching 
 strains, with our own sweet melodies, had the 
 advantage of being sung in the same skilful and 
 impressive manner, and with that fine enuncia- 
 tion of the words which so eminently distinguish 
 Italian singers, they would electrify all hearers 
 While we admit the inferiority of our music then* 
 compared with that of the Italians, they musj 
 yield the palm to us, in what constitutes at least 
 half the interest of a song, the poetry : and 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 Aa 
 
370 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM THE ROOMS. 
 
 ENGLISH PARTIES. 
 
 thus, I think, Scotland very fairly balances the ac- 
 count. * 
 
 The concert-rooms are emptied and filled with 
 successions of new visitors at every act, or great 
 pause in the performance. The pressure and 
 Stream of company which this occasions in the 
 various rooms, is itself amusing, though, I must 
 confess, delicacy and refinement took no part in the 
 general squeeze. The parties in the talking, pro- 
 menading, and music rooms, moved away about 
 eleven o'clock. The gamesters were not so easily 
 dispersed : when we took our last and scrutinizing 
 look, we perceived a hundred eyes fixed upon a 
 heap of gold, which the table had honourabljj ac- 
 quired. No parting adieus ; it would indeed be 
 a sad want of good breeding, to interrupt a duchess 
 in the middle of her game. 
 
 37 1 
 
 * Every admirer of Scottish mubic and song will acknow- 
 ledge his obligations to Mr George Thomson of Eoinburnh, 
 who has done more than any other individual to produce this 
 happy union of our most touching national melodies, with 
 poetry in every respect worthy of them, lie has not only 
 collected and published the finest old airs, with the songs 
 originally adapted to them, when these were deserving of pub- 
 lication; but, by engaging men of genius to tune their harp 
 to the most inspiring of these airs, he has been the means of 
 bringing a most valuable accession to the poetry of Scotland. 
 To him we are indebted, in this manner, fur many of the hap- 
 piest lyrical eflTusions of Burns, which were produced expiess- 
 ly for Mr Thomson's work. 
 
 A certain countess being extremely anxious to 
 have something very select, attempted to exclude 
 all those who had not some pretension to the proud 
 and half formed smile of consequential rank. But 
 .t would not take. The high and mighty travellers 
 found tl.at they could have enough of that at home. 
 iJie attable and condescending D— s of D— dis 
 plays more judgment, however, in the arrangement 
 of her parties ;-her Grace brings together the 
 proper mgredients of good and enlightened society. 
 We find under her hospitable roof people of high 
 distmcfon, fashion, and talent. They are receiv- 
 ed by the accomplished Duchess herself, a lady of 
 the most agreeable and affable deportment. Gam- 
 bimg or music form no part of the entertainment : 
 but rare books, antiquities, and various works of 
 art, may be found in different rooms. Amon.. 
 pmons of high and varied accomplishments, th^ 
 subjects of conversation are alike instructive and 
 entertainn.g. and are in general delicately and 
 •skdfu ly touched, without being dwelt upon lono- 
 enough to exhaust the general vivacity. Me^ 
 of genius and talent are purticdarly introduced 
 to those who may be of service to them and 
 are spoken of in the most agreeable terms. ' The 
 hearts of all, in short, seem to expand with ^ene 
 rous sentime.U, and devotion towards the annable" 
 Duchess. The use, and, I would say, morality of 
 such parties, must be obvious,_surely more irv. 
 
 VOL. 1. I 
 
372 
 
 ENGLISH PARTIES. 
 
 proving to the heart and mind than the select or 
 excluding system, the rattling of a dice-box, or 
 the mere gratification of the ear. The smile of 
 the excellent Duchess, like the light of heaven, 
 beams on all around ! 
 
 LETTER XXXr. 
 
 ROME. 
 Ball at the Neapolitan Ambassador^ ri 
 
 " -"ic Of HnspUalitu CharnrI,.,- „f r, 
 
 ■"'""'"one.—l,„pro„^i^' 4 '-'""■'"=ter of a Con- 
 
 dor. When an ^nf. . • -^^ench ambassa- 
 
 «/ their Jv ,X, T'""""? '"'" ■" '■»"»" 
 
 fl pre,™, i„ the ,„„„,,, „, " ^5 "^ f "S»=" 
 N.PH i„ .He r.«r itXi "r 
 a.te„<U„„, and ,„ccLi,7v 1 ""''/""''"■"• "d 
 
374> NEAPOLITAN AMBASSADOR'S BALL. 
 
 ascending the great stair, which was lined with 
 guards, we entered a large gallery crowded with 
 innumerable domestics. On going into the intro- 
 duction-room, we found the minister of his Neapo- 
 litan majesty, covered with decorations, amidst a 
 group of nobility of various nations. 
 
 The ball-room was the famous Farnese Gallery, 
 the roof and walls of which were painted by A. Ca- 
 racci and Domenichlno.* Those magnificent fres- 
 coes, perhaps,never appeared to more advantage ; art, 
 indeed, may be fairly said to have triumphed over 
 meretricious splendour; notwithstanding the superb 
 dresses and orders of distinction, diamonds hardly 
 seemed to shine in their presence ; all eyes were 
 fixed on those justly celebrated works, which seem- 
 ed to be improved by the gorgeous assemblage, t 
 
 Our countrywomen, as usual, eclipsed in beauty all 
 the foreign fair, but not in sumptuous dress. Some 
 of the Italian princesses were almost covered with 
 diamonds; still, however, lovely nature commanded 
 the admiring eye. The dancing was extremely 
 
 ♦ Some account of these pictures will be given in a future 
 
 Letter. 
 
 f The noble fresco paintings on the roofs and walls, in the 
 great apartments in many of the Roman palaces, excite emo- 
 lions of melancholy, Nvhcn we cast our ryes horn them to the 
 miserable brick floors, and the few solitary individuals which 
 are occasionally seen in them. 
 
 WANT OF HOSPITALITY. 
 
 375 
 
 bad. Out of compliment to the British ladies, the Ita- 
 lian gentlemen attempted country dances, in which 
 they absolutely failed, hopping, as it were, with one 
 leg across the other, and occasionally losing them- 
 selves in a maze of intricacy. Their intention, 
 however, being so polite and good, our lovely belles 
 merely smiled at their confusion, and assisted 
 them as well as possible. In the waltzing they 
 made amends, and elegance and ease changed 
 place with awkwardness. In the gaming-room 
 we saw no fortunes lost or won : the stakes were 
 small, but always gold; curiosity was so busy, 
 for that evening, that music lost its charms, and 
 for the same reason, conversation took the shape 
 of the trifling questions and nothings of a prome- 
 nade. 
 
 The masquerade in Rome is little more than a 
 mob of masks ; character is never well sustained; 
 the same unmeaning squeaking voice, the same 
 childish mask, constantly annoy the eye and ear. 
 
 There is occasionally some good music in the 
 theatres, and tolerable comic actors ; but, generally 
 speaking, the theatricals are very indifferent. 
 
 The Roman nobility and gentry have little of 
 that social spirit which characterizes the British 
 nation. They rarely give dinners or petit soupers, 
 —very seldom, indeed, to strangers. Their fortunes 
 do not pennit any great display of hospitality, and, 
 perhaps, it is wise in them not to enter the lists 
 
376 
 
 ITALIAN BAS BLEUS. 
 
 with the expensive and affluent foreigners. It 
 would require, inde.'d» a very princely revenue to 
 entertain the hordes of strangers from every coun- 
 try in Europe, that are incessantly pouring into 
 Italy. Yet, though foreigners have little reason 
 to extol the hospitality of the Italians, they have 
 as little reason to complain of their want of polite- 
 ness. They are remarkably affable and attentive, 
 and, like the French, abound in protestations of 
 friendship, which are supported by numberless lit- 
 tle kind offices, and the sincerity of which, there- 
 fore, it is unnecessary to scruthiize with too much 
 rigour. Real friendship is every where a plant of 
 rare growth ; and it would be unreasonable to ex- 
 pect that it should spring up in the course of a 
 casual and short acquaintance between foreigners, 
 who may never meet again. But surely some 
 praise is due to that polite accommodation, which 
 suits itself for the time to the circumstances of 
 every visitant, and seems to take pleasure, as far as 
 it is called upon, in enabling him to accomplish 
 the purposes for which he travels. 
 
 The very few Bas Bleus who have conversaziones 
 after their drive in the Corso in the afternoon, are 
 not the most agreeable ladies in Rome, nor is their 
 entertainment of the first order. Some wretched 
 scribbler may recite his compositions, and flatter, 
 and be flattered by the silly women. The dis- 
 gusting venal praise, and unremitting gallantry of 
 
 IMPROVVISATORES. 
 
 377 
 
 the men would not be tolerated any where but in 
 italy. Here, however, it is enjoyed, and seems to 
 give great delight. In their conversaziones, they 
 iiave no books, music, cards, prints, or refresh 
 nients ; so that there is no alternative but to talk. 
 I his forced chit-chat, however, often languishes 
 and resolves itself into what is really very unwor-' 
 tny o\ the name of conversation. 
 
 One of the principal amusements in Rome is 
 iistenmg for a whole evening to an improvvisatore 
 orimprovvisatrix. These exhibitions, notwithstand- 
 ing the affectation of inspiration, violent contor- 
 tions, and gnmaces, are certainly very curious and 
 amusing ; and occasionally their extemporaneous 
 verse and prose is found to have considerable 
 beauty ; but I believe no one has ventured to say 
 that, takmg them altogether, they are fit produc' 
 tions to be oflTered to the public. Signor Tommaso 
 Sgncci takes the lead ; and next to him, Signor 
 Biondi, Signora Orfei, Signor Ferretti, and lastly 
 ^ignora Taddi. With the exception of Signor 
 Sgncci, their recitations are accompanied by the 
 pmno-forte ; but Sgricci performs, like an actor 
 without any such assistance ; and without any hesi* 
 tation composes a play with a chorus, and acts 
 the whole ni a very superior style. 
 
 When we saw this celebrated man, a small tempor- 
 ary stage was erected for him, about eighteen inches 
 in height from the floor. He is young and interest- 
 
878 
 
 SIGNOR SGRICCI. 
 
 ing in his appearance, about the middle size, with a 
 very intelligent expression of countenance. He 
 mounted the stage, and requested the audience 
 to give a subject ; when several persons, English, 
 French, and Italians, wrote one each on various slips 
 of paper, to the amount perhaps of a dozen. These 
 were put into a hat and shuffled together, after 
 whicli they were taken out, with the exception of 
 three, by other persons of the audience ; the re- 
 maining three were given to him in the hat, into 
 which he put his hand, and took out one of the slips 
 of paper, on which was written Medea. The other 
 two subjects were the Rape of Europa, and the Sa- 
 crifice of Abraham. There could be no deception. 
 He placed his hand upon his forehead, thought 
 for a moment, and then proceeded in his recita- 
 tion, receiving the plaudits and cheering shouts of 
 the company ; and more than once he completely 
 electrified them. At the end of each act, he ap- 
 peared among the nobility, and was most gracious- 
 ly received by a couple of elderly Italian Prin- 
 cesses, who almost overwhelmed him with tlieir 
 caresses. With all his talent, he had an ungrace- 
 ful manner of treading the stage, apparently as if 
 he felt the floor to be hot beneath him, raising his 
 feet with haste, and putting them down in a simi- 
 lar manner. It appeared to me, too, that there 
 was a want of flow of language, the words were 
 all pronounced in a measured style, with an equal 
 
 SIGNORA TADDI. 
 
 379 
 
 I 
 
 emphasis on eacli, and the expression nas given 
 more at the end of the sentiment, than diffused 
 throughout. The R's were sounded strongly, 
 and, as they often occurred, they produced a most 
 unpleasing monotony. 
 
 His power of acting was very considerable, but 
 I cannot say that his expression was always good 
 or natural. The exhibition, however, altogether, 
 was certainly very astonishing. He shewed great 
 warmth of fancy and rapidity of thought, and if he 
 even had availed himself of a little previous study, 
 our surprise would not have been at all diminished i 
 especially as he was requested once or twice to 
 change the measure of the poetry, which he did 
 with the utmost ease. 
 
 Signora Taddi, whom we have likewise seen, 
 bears no comparison with Signor Sgricci. Her 
 manner was very unpleasing, reminding us of the 
 boy possessed with devils, in the picture of the 
 Transfiguration of Raphael. Her voice was hol- 
 low and unearthly ; and why she threw herself 
 into such a variety of strange contortions, I have 
 yet to learn. With all these disagreeable accompa- 
 niments, she, nevertheless, got through her work 
 without uttering any absolute nonsense, and occa- 
 sionally advanced a pretty thought. 
 
 The amusements of the inferior class of people 
 seemed to me to be chiefly dancing, serenading, and 
 promenading ; the game called Morra, or count- 
 
VolXP.yt3RO. 
 
 380 ROMAN PEASANTRY. — LOVE EPISTLES. 
 
 ing of fingers suddenly ; Puncli's opera, the dan- 
 cing bear, swinging, and playing at bowls, and 
 bull baiting ; but this is only on festal days, which 
 certainly occur by much too often. Every saint, 
 indeed, seems the patron of idleness, a third part of 
 the year being shut out from industry. 
 
 In their dress the women are somewhat gaudy, but 
 the attire of the peasantry, when they appear on mar- 
 ket days, is often extremely picturesque ; the panno 
 and spelio are very becoming, but you may judge for 
 yourself from the drawings of Penelli, who is an artist 
 of great ability in painting Italian costume. The 
 figures of men and women are very fine, and often 
 graceful, and in their manners, there is an ease 
 which seems to indicate a little taste. All, how- 
 ever, are said to follow the example of tlieir su- 
 periors in laxity of morals, and I have heard some 
 instances that would shock your ear. Yet the 
 streets are never crowded with vicious women, 
 nor do the theatres present such disgusting sights, 
 as may be seen in Drury Lane or Covent Gfir- 
 den. 
 
 From the ignorance of the lower ranks, many of 
 them not being able to read or write, their love 
 epistles are written by scribblers, who make a live- 
 lihood by such writings. The sum given is regu- 
 lated according to the number of words or flatter- 
 ing compliment ; in general, they do not exceed 
 the sum of 2d. 3d. 4d. or 6d. each letter ; if the 
 
 ^^^TCjif 
 
 ^~.<a j*/t 
 
 t^^^^' 
 
 •fiar.i ,>r 
 
 H'ff.^^iris.XT IPifi^a-fiv;^^''^ ^.rrm) Sisii::£.i£jifUfirr< 
 
V„l.lJ',ye3.HO. 
 
 38Q ROMAN PEASANTRY. — LOVE EPISTLES. 
 
 ing of fingers suddenly ; Puncli's opera, the dan- 
 cing bear, swinging, and playing at bowls, and 
 bull baiting ; but this is only on festal days, which 
 certainly occur by much too often. Every saint, 
 indeed, seems the patron of idleness, a third part of 
 the year being shut out from industry. 
 
 In their dress the women are somewhat gaudy, but 
 the attire of the peasantry, when they appear on mar- 
 ket days is often extremely picturesque ; the panno 
 and spelio are very becoming, but you may judge for 
 yourself from the drawings of Penelli, who is an artist 
 of great ability in painting Italian costume. The 
 figures of men and women are very fine, and often 
 graceful, and in their manners, there is an ease 
 which seems to indicate a little taste. All, how- 
 ever, are said to follow the example of their su- 
 periors in hixity of morals, and I have heard some 
 instances that would shock your ear. Yet the 
 streets are never crowded with vicious women, 
 nor do the theatres present such disgusting sio-hts, 
 as may be seen in Drury Lane or Covent GiJr- 
 den. 
 
 From the ignorance of the lower ranks, many of 
 them not being able to read or write, their love 
 epistles are written by scribblers, who make a live- 
 lihood by such writings. The sum given is regu- 
 lated according to the number of words or flatter^ 
 ing compliment ; in general, they do not exceed 
 the sum of 2d. 3d. 4d. or 6d. each letter ; if the 
 
 ^m-fft J,/' 
 
 ■■ ,^^^^^: 
 
 H'S'^iCaL^AiT IPj^^aS-^^t^^ j^rr^^ Ci£ii£ii.iE^iiiisrf 
 
fc 
 
 [=C 
 
 
 © 
 
 5- 
 
FIGHTING WITH KNIVES.— ROBBERS. 381 
 
 7- 
 
 » 
 
 writers, however, be employed by a person of any 
 respectability in life, they rise in their demand. 
 
 In their quarrels, the men of the inferior class 
 used to light with knives. In their attack, they 
 wrapped up their left arm in their cloak, and held 
 the knife about a couple of inches from the point. 
 They seldom kill each other, but they often inflict 
 desperate wounds. Knives, at present, are not per- 
 mitted to be worn, in consequence of the horrible 
 practice of fighting with them. They therefore 
 have recourse to stones, and are very dexterous in 
 hitting their mark. 
 
 It has been said that it is dangerous to walk in 
 the streets of Rome at night, in some of the sub- 
 ordinate parts of the city. Perhaps it may, but we 
 have heard of no unfortunate accident having taken 
 place, though we have now been in Home a consi- 
 derable time ; and strangers are out at all hours. 
 
 The country, however, especially between Rome 
 and Naples, is far from being free from robbers 
 and murderers ; and we have heard of such atro- 
 cious deeds as would make you shudder, and place 
 the worst of men much below the worst of savage 
 brutes. A band of these wicked wretches sur- 
 rendered themselves the other day to the papal 
 government. At present, they are confined in the 
 castle of St Angelo; every one goes to see them, 
 and we have been there among the rest. We 
 ibund them with their captain at their head, in 
 
FIGHTING WITH KNIVES. ROBBERS. 381 
 
 writers, however, be employed by a person of any 
 respectability in life, they rise in tlieir demand. 
 
 In their quarrels, the men of the inferior class 
 used to figlit with knives. In their attack, they 
 wrapped up their left arm in their cloak, and held 
 the knife about a couple of inches from the point. 
 They seldom kill each other, but they often inflict 
 desperate wounds. Knives, at present, are not per- 
 mitted to be worn, in consequence of the horrible 
 practice of fighting with them. They therefore 
 have recourse to stones, and are very dexterous in 
 hitting their mark. 
 
 It has been said that it is dangerous to walk in 
 the streets of Rome at night, in some of the sub- 
 ordinate parts of the city. Perhaps it may, but we 
 have heard of no unfortunate accident having taken 
 place, though we have now been in Rome a consi- 
 derable time ; and strangers are out at all hours. 
 
 The country, however, especially between Rome 
 and Naples, is far from being free from robbers 
 and murderers ; and we have heard of such atro- 
 cious deeds as would make you shudder, and place 
 the worst of men much below the worst of savage 
 brutes. A band of these wicked wretches sur- 
 rendered themselves the other day to the papal 
 goverimient. At present, they are confined in the 
 castle of St Angelo; every one goes to see them, 
 and we have been there among the rest. We 
 found them with their captain at their head, in 
 
382 
 
 CONTRASTS IN ROME. 
 
 CONTRASTS IN ROME. 
 
 383 
 
 the chapel of the castle, praying fervently. They 
 had nothing savage in appearance, not even the 
 captain, who boasts of having murdered more than 
 thirty persons with his own hands. They were 
 strong healthy-looking country men, the cap- 
 tain seeming the most insignificant of them all ; 
 his lady, however, is perhaps the most beautiful 
 creature now in Rome. These banditti have wives 
 and children, and they seemed, when we saw them 
 a second time, to be very happy. They are re- 
 ported to have plenty of money, and are constantly 
 receiving presents. The captain's beauty was pre- 
 sented with a valuable necklace from an English 
 lady of rank. Lucien Bonaparte, and the Prin- 
 cess S— C— , were likewise very generous to her. 
 These men are almost all murderers ; yet (is it not 
 surprising ?) they are to have their freedom in a 
 few months. Government allows about 2s. 6d. per 
 day to the captain, and Is. ()d. to the common 
 robbers; the former will be at large in three 
 months, the latter in six. There are other bands 
 of robbers infesting the roads, but they will not 
 surrender, even upon these mild tenns. 
 
 This holy city abounds in contrasts. St Peter's, 
 while it displays the power and ingenuity of man, 
 contains within itself a lamentable sign of his weak- 
 ness ; the foot of the bronze statue of the patron 
 saint is almost kissed away through bigotry and 
 superstition. From the top of St Peter's, we per- 
 
 ceive the late inquisition on one side, and on the 
 other the Vatican, with all its treasures of litera- 
 ture, sculpture, and paintmg. Then casting the 
 eye to the distance, there appears a contrast be- 
 tween the Coliseum and the triumphal arches ; 
 —the former having lowered man to the brute 
 creation — the other having exalted him as a god. 
 I may even mention the great bell of St Peter's, * 
 vibrating in the air, and seeming to shake the 
 heavens, contrasted with the little pitiful bells tink- 
 led at the garments of the priests ; the churches 
 covered with gilding, and the people with rags ; 
 the cruelty of putting fire on the backs of the 
 horses, to impel them onwards in the race at the 
 carnival, in this seat of piety. There is one su- 
 blime contrast, however, which I wish we had in 
 our own country,— and that is, the prince and the 
 beggar kneeling at the same altar, t 
 
 
 ♦ The solemn tone ot the great bell produces a pleasing 
 effect of mtlancholy on the mind ; we hear no beat or strike 
 of the hammer, it is a simple sound, but very mournful ; and 
 the emotion it excites is gieatiy hei<jhtened, on reflecting that 
 we are in the city of the Caesars. 
 
 t This la^t contract might teach a useful lesson to our good 
 people in Edinburgh, where the poor are in a manner seclud- 
 ed from some of our churches,— as if all were not worshippers 
 of that impartial Creator, who pays no respect to persons. 
 
 END OF VOLUME FIRST. 
 
 Printed by George Ramsay and Company, 
 Kdinburgh, 18 ID. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 B b 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 No. L 
 
 MiNERALOGicAL Report, made hj the Chief En. 
 gineer of the Grand Duke of Tuscany to his 
 Serene Highness, respecting Elba. 
 
 PoKTOFERRAio and the forts of La Stella and II Falcone 
 are built upon a hill of grey argillaceous schistus, as may 
 be easily observed on the sea-side. 
 
 On the right of the road from Portoferraio to Rio, a short 
 distance from the Porta del Ponticello, is a hill of indurated 
 clay, containing crystals of quartz, some cubical some irre- 
 gular. In many places the rock has crumbled into a com. 
 mon clay, in which the quartz crystals are scattered unalter- 
 ed. 
 
 Advancing towards Rio along the seashore, we pass the 
 salt-works of Portoferraio. The hills are still composed of 
 argillaceous schistus, covered at the summit by limestone. 
 Rio itself stands upon a hill, in which the schistus and lime- 
 stone are disposed in alternate beds. 
 
 Between Rio and Portolongone the only subject of inter- 
 est is the mine of Terra Nera, which lies to the south-east of 
 the latter city. 
 
388 
 
 MINERALOGY OF ELBAi 
 
 Between Longone and Capoliveri lies the plain of Mola, 
 which, although the most fertile soil in the island, is aban- 
 doned to stagnant waters, and consequently to malaria, which 
 renders it uninhabitable. 
 
 Capoliveri stands upon an argillaceous schistus, over the 
 surface of which lie fragments of serpentine and limestone. 
 In the vicinity is the Monte Calamita, or mountain of load, 
 stone, so famous all over Europe, and which, if well manag- 
 ed by the government, would alone ensure a subsistence to 
 the wretched inhabitants of the island. 
 
 In the district of San Peiro, to the west of Capoliveri, is 
 the great granite quarry of Sacchetto, whence, it would ap- 
 pear, that the ancients drew many of their columns. Three of 
 the columns in the portico of the Parthenon are of a similar 
 stone. There still exist on the spot, in an unfinished state, 
 several columns inscribed Opera Pisana, and a basin of great 
 diameter. 
 
 Marciana is built upon the prolongation of the Granite 
 Mountains, now sinking under the schistus. The mountains 
 inland from it are the highest in the island, and so rugged 
 as to be nearly inaccessible. Troceeding round to Poitofer- 
 raio, we find nothing but the argillaceous schistus. 
 
 Small as the island is, it contains minerals which might 
 produce an immense revenue. 
 
 Its mines of gold and silver may be overrated, but the 
 granite and marble quarries are of immense value, and cop- 
 per and sulphate of iron form two lucrative branches of 
 trade. The loadstone of Capoliveri, and the iron of Terra 
 Nera, might be worked to any extent, did not the govern- 
 ment throw obstacles in the way of exportation. 
 
 The small Island of Pianosa, immediately adjacent to 
 Elba, now entirely uninhabited, m ight be cultivated to great 
 advantage. The ancient roads still remain, as also the ruins 
 of baths. It has a great extent of land fit for the plough ; 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 
 
 389 
 
 600 head of cattle might find pasture ; and the olive and vine 
 thrive well. Napoleon had begun to repair the harbour, 
 and build a fort to protect it from the Algerines, and at the 
 same time cleared out the fountains still in existence. Now, 
 however, all these improvements are abandoned, and Pianosa 
 remains uninhabited. 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II. 
 
 The ruins of the Coliseum, as mentioned at p. 300, cover 
 more than five acres of ground. This space has, in the course 
 of ages, become, as it were, a natural botanic garden; so 
 numerous and so various are the plants which flourish there. 
 I am happy to be able to present the following list of them, 
 drawn up by Dr Sebastiani of Rome. To the botanical reader, 
 who may propose a visit to the ancient capital of the world, 
 and to this, the most glorious of its remains, the list must 
 be particularly interesting. It is a remarkable fact, that, out 
 of 26l, no fewer than 148 (marked with an asterisk) are na- 
 tives of the British Islands ; a fact which should teach us 
 not to slight our own Flora. Several of the shrubs or tree^ 
 such as the fig, the olive, and the mastick, are to be regarded 
 as accidental intruders, unless, perhaps, they may have been 
 planted by the hermit who got the charge of the ruins after 
 their consecration by Pope Benedict XIV. The spot, it may 
 be remarked, is remarkably rich in Trefoils ; for, including 
 those ranked under the title Melilotus, no fewer than sixteen 
 species occur. At the top of the list, which is in alphabeti- 
 cal order, the mode of arrangement being a matter of indiffer- 
 ence, stands Acanthus mollis, the plant whose leaves acciden- 
 tally springing up around a basket, are said to have given to 
 Callimachus the first idea of the Corinthian capital. 
 
390 
 
 PLANTS WITIim THE COLISEUM. 
 
 Enumeratio Plantarum sponte nasceniium in ruderihus Am- 
 
 pkitheatri Flavii, 
 
 1 Acanthus mollis of Linnaeus. 
 
 2 Agrostis miliacea do. 
 
 3 ♦ Alsine media do. 
 
 4 Allium album. 
 
 Scapo nudo obsolete triquetro ; foliis radicalibus 11- 
 neari-lanceolatis, canaliculatis, carinatis, umbella 
 capsulifera ; petalis ovatis ; staminibus simplici- 
 bus. Flores candidi. Aprili. Perenn. 
 
 5 subhirsutum of Linnaeus. 
 
 6 . porrum do. 
 
 7 • «__ vineale do. 
 
 8 Ammi majus do. 
 
 9 * Amaranthus blitum do. 
 
 10 . retrotlexus do. 
 
 II* Anagallis arvensis do. 
 
 12 • Anchusa angustifolia do. 
 
 IS Anemone hortensis do. 
 
 14 * Anethum fceniculum do. 
 
 15 • Anthemis tinctoria do. 
 
 Floret Maio ad totam acstatcm, atque etiam Autum- 
 num. 
 
 16 » arvensis do. 
 
 17 • cotula do. 
 
 18 * Antirrhinum majus do. 
 
 19 » cymbalaria do. 
 
 20 * Arenaria serpyllifolia do. 
 
 21 * Arenaria tenuifolia do. 
 
 22 Arnopogon picroides of Willdenow. 
 
 The Tragopogon picroides of Linnaeus, Flores lutei. 
 Aprili, Maio, Junio. 
 
 23 * Artemisia vulgaris of Linnaeus. 
 
 1 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 
 
 S91 
 
 24 Arum Italicum. 
 
 (Acaule ; foliis albo-venosis, hastato-sagittatis, lobis 
 auriculatis divaricatis, spadice clavato, spathabre- 
 viore. Willdenow.) Flores luteo-virides, Aprili. 
 Perenn. 
 
 25 Asphodelus fistulosus of Linnasus. 
 
 26 * Atriplex patula do. 
 
 27 * Avena fatua do. 
 
 28 fragilis do. 
 
 29 
 
 nej^lecta. 
 
 Panicula densa, spiculis glabris nitidis, subsexfloris, 
 glumis apice bifidis, foliis planis pilosis moUibus. 
 Floret Maio, Junio, Autumno. Ann. 
 
 B 
 
 30 * Ballota nigra of Linnajus. 
 
 31 * Bartsia viscosa do. 
 
 32 * Bellis perennis do. 
 33 annua do. 
 
 34 * Borago officinalis do, 
 
 35 Briza eragrostris do. 
 
 36 * Bromus sterilis do. 
 
 37 * diandrus of Sir James Smith. 
 
 38 * mollis of Linnaeus. 
 
 39 __ racemosus do. 
 
 40 ligusticus. 
 
 Panicula contracta, nutante secunda, pedunculis dila- 
 tatis, valvula calycina altera vix conspicua. Circa 
 finem Aprilis. 
 
 41 trivialis 
 
 42 distachyos of Linnaeus. 
 
 43 * pinnatus do. 
 
 44 Calendula officinalis of Linnaeus 
 
 45 Campanula erinus do. 
 
392 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 
 
 46 * Cardamine hirsuta of Linnaeus. 
 
 47 Capparis spinosa 
 
 48 * Carduus marianus 
 
 49 . pycnocephalus 
 
 50 ♦ ' nutans 
 
 51 * Centaurea calcitrapa 
 
 52 ♦ solstitialis 
 
 53 * Cerastium vulgatum 
 
 do. Also Capparis inermis. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 54 
 
 campanulatum, Viviani. 
 
 Corollis campanulatis, petalis semibifidis, calyce du- 
 plolongioribus. Initio Aprilis ad Augustum. Ann. 
 
 55 • ..._..^_ semidecandrum of Linnaeus. 
 
 56 * Chenopodium album do. 
 
 57 * hybridum do. 
 
 58 * vulvaria do. 
 
 59 * ChaErophyllum sylvestre of Linnaeus. 
 
 60 * Cheiranthus cheiri do. 
 
 61 • maritimus do. 
 
 62 • Chironia centaurium of Sir J. Smith. 
 
 63 *Cichorium intybus of Linnaeus. 
 
 64 * Clematis vitalba do. 
 
 65 , fiammula do. 
 
 66 • Cnicuslanceolatus, the Carduus lanceolatus of Linnaeus. 
 
 67 * Convolvulus arvensis of Linnaeus. 
 
 68 * Cotyledon umbilicus do. 
 
 69 Colutea arborescens do 
 
 70 * Conyza squarrosa do. 
 
 71 >i sordida do. 
 
 72 Coroniila securidaca do. 
 
 73 _-— cretica do. 
 
 74 * Crataegus oxyacantha do. 
 
 75 Crepis scariosa of Willdenow. 
 
 76 " stricta. 
 
 Foliis radicalibus sinuatis^ caulinis sessilibus sagittatis^ 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. SQS 
 
 basique laciniatis ; caule erecto, panicdis sparsis, 
 nubihbus nutantibus. Fiores lutei. Aprili, Maio, 
 Junio, frequens. Ann. 
 
 77 • Crepis foetida of Linnaeus. 
 
 7S ' ■ setosa of Haller. 
 
 79 Chrysanthemum myconis of Linnaeus. 
 
 SO Cucubalus Italicus do. 
 
 fil * Cynosurus echinatus do. 
 
 D 
 
 82 *DactyHsgIomerata of Linnaeus. 
 
 83 ♦ Daucus carota do. 
 84. Delphinium peregrinum do. 
 S5 * Dianthus prolifer do. 
 86 ♦ Draba muralis do. 
 
 87 
 
 verna 
 
 88 * Echium vulgare ' 
 
 89 * • violaceum 
 
 £ 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 90 
 91 
 
 Epilobium pubescens 
 
 Ervum uniflorum. 
 
 Tenore F^or. Napol. Distribut. III. p. 42. Fiores sub. 
 rubn. Ma,o. This plant grows also here and there 
 among the ruins of the Baths of Dioclesian. 
 
 92 * hirsutum of Linnajus. 
 
 93 Erodium malacoides of Willdenow. 
 ^* ' Romanum do. 
 
 95 * moschatum do. 
 
 96 * Erigeron Canadense of Linn^us. 
 
 97 ♦ Erysimum officinale do. 
 
 98 * Euphorbia peplus do. 
 
 99 • Euonymus Europaeus do. 
 
 100 • Festuca myuros do. Ako a variety, glumfe hir- 
 
394* PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 
 
 suto-ciliatis. Haec variecas promiscue crescit cum 
 specie ; differt statura minori et gluraarum hirsutie. 
 
 101 Festuca arundinacea 
 
 102 Ferula communis of Linnaeus. 
 
 103 Ficus carica sylvestris do. 
 104? * Fumaria capreolata 
 IOj * . officinalis 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 106 * Galium aparine 
 
 107 *, moUugo 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 108 * Geranium rotundifolium 
 
 IQC) » molle 
 
 IIQ * Robertianum 
 
 1 1 1 Gnaphalium montanum of Willdenow. 
 
 112 Gypsophila saxifraga of Linnxus. 
 
 H 
 
 113* Hedera helix of Linnaeus. 
 
 1 14. Iledypnois Monspeliensis of Willdenow. 
 
 115 *Helminthia echiodes do. 
 
 116 Ileliotropium Europium of Linnaius. 
 
 117 ♦ Hypericum perforatum 
 
 118 * Hypochseris radicata 
 Hyoscyamus albus 
 llyacinthus Romanus 
 . comosus 
 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 
 racemosus 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Hieracium tuberosum, the Leontodon bulbosum of 
 LinnaeMs. 
 12t * IIolcus lanatus of Linntcus. 
 
 125 * Ilordeum murinum do 
 
 126 bulbosum do. 
 
 PLANTS WmilN THE COLISEUM. 3Q5 
 
 127 Inula viscosa of Willdenow. 
 ^^^ *■ ^ysenterica of Linnaus. 
 
 L 
 
 129 *Lagurus ovatus do 
 
 130 * Lamium amplexicaule do. 
 131 la?vigatum do. 
 
 132 *Lactuca scariola do. 
 
 133 Lavatera triloba do. 
 
 134 Lepidium graminifolium do. 
 
 135 * Ligustrum vulgare 
 
 136 Linum strictum 
 
 137 * Lolium perenne 
 
 138 * temulentum 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 139 *Lonicera caprifolium „„. 
 UO * Lotus ornithopodioides do. 
 1*1 * corniculatus do. 
 
 142 * Lychnis flos-cucuH do. 
 
 143 "' dioica do. 
 
 144 
 145 
 
 146 
 
 147 
 148 
 
 149 
 150 
 151 
 
 M 
 
 Malva sylvestris do. 
 Mauritiana do. 
 
 Medicago lupulina do. 
 
 • maculata of Willdenow. 
 
 denticulata, do. 
 
 — tribuloides of Wilidenow. 
 
 ■ minima do. 
 
 — ' sphaerocarpos 
 
 152 * Melilotus officinalis. 
 
 153 -_ Italica. 
 
 154 Jndica 
 
 155 Melica ciliata of Linnicus. 
 
 1 '^^ ramosa of Wilidenow. 
 
396 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 397 
 
 157 Melissa calamintha of Linnaius. 
 
 158 __ cordifolia 
 
 159 • Mercurialis annua of Linnaius 
 
 160 * Myosotis arvensis 
 
 161 Myagrum rugosum of Linnajus. 
 
 162 '—• erucaifolium 
 
 O 
 
 1 63 Olea Europeaof Linnaeus, also a variety, Olca sylvestris. 
 164* * Orobanche minor 
 
 2(55 * . - ramosa of Linnaeus. 
 
 166 Ornithopus scorpioides do. 
 
 167 * Origanum vulgare 
 
 168 Osyris alba 
 
 169 * Oxalis corniculata 
 
 170 " Panicum viride 
 
 171 * Papaver somniferum 
 
 172 * • Ilhaeas 
 
 173 Phyllirea media 
 174? Phalaris bulbosa 
 
 175 * paradoxa 
 
 176 • Picris hieracioides 
 
 177 Pistacia lentiscus 
 
 178 * Plantago lanceolata 
 
 179 
 
 .- psyllium 
 
 180 * Potentilla reptans 
 
 181 * Poterium sanguisorba 
 
 182 Polygala Monspeliaca 
 
 183 Portulaca oleracea 
 
 184 • Poa trivialis 
 
 185 
 186 
 187 
 
 annua 
 rigida 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 do* 
 
 do* 
 
 [do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do 
 
 190 
 191 
 
 188 • Prunella vulgaris of Linnaus. 
 
 189 • Polygonum convolvulus do. 
 
 — persicaria do. 
 
 — aviculare do. 
 
 R 
 
 192 • Ranunculus bulbosus do. 
 
 193 • Raphanus raphanistrum do, 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 194 Reseda undata 
 
 195 Rhamnus alaternus 
 
 196 Rhinanthus trixago 
 
 197 Rosa sempervirens 
 
 198 • Rubus fruticosus 
 
 199 Rumex pulcher 
 
 200 Ruta chalepensis 
 
 201 * Salvia verbenaca 
 
 202 
 203 
 204 
 205 
 206 
 
 • Sambucus ebulus 
 Saxifraga tridactylites 
 
 • Scabiosa columbaria 
 Scolymus Hispanicus 
 Secale villosum 
 
 207 • Sedum dasyphyllum 
 
 208 • reflexum 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Polycarpon tetraphyllum do. 
 
 209 • Senecio vulgaris 
 
 210 • Sherardia arvensis 
 
 Flores rubro-cccrulei. Aprili, Maio. Ann. 
 
 211 muralis do. 
 
 Flores lutei. Aprili, Maio. Ann. 
 
 212 Seriola iEtnensis do. 
 
 213 • Sisymbrium irio do. 
 
 214 • tenuifolium do. 
 
 215 Sideritis Romana do. 
 
 216 • Sinapis alba do. 
 
 
398 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 
 
 217 
 218 
 219 
 220 
 221 
 
 Sinapis erucoides of Linnauus. 
 Smyrnium olusatrum do. 
 Sonchus oleraceus do. 
 ■ tenerrimus do. 
 picroidcs do. 
 
 •I 
 1 
 
 ooo 
 
 223 
 224? 
 
 226 
 227 
 228 
 229 
 230 
 231 
 
 232 
 233 
 234- 
 235 
 236 
 
 237 
 238 
 
 239 
 
 240 
 
 241 
 
 242 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 * Thlaspi bursa-pastoris do. 
 
 * Thymus vulgaris do. 
 
 * Tordylium maximum do. 
 Tozzettia pratensis of Savi. 
 
 Tozzettia, spica ovata, valvis calycinis compressis 
 carina pilosis, arista articulata, vagina superiori 
 utriculata. [It is ihe Phalaris utriculata of 
 Linnajus. It flowers in April, and is a perennial.] 
 Tribulus terrestris of Linnaius. 
 Trigonella corniculata 
 Trifolium hybridum 
 
 • repens 
 
 • pratense 
 
 ■ pallidum 
 Flores albo-virides. Circa finem Aprilis. Ann. 
 — — lappaceum of Linnxus. 
 
 angustifolium do. 
 
 • scabrum do. 
 
 • maritimum of Sir James Smith. 
 
 supinum of Savi. 
 
 Flores purpurascentes. Junio, Julio. Ann, 
 _- resupinatum of Linnaius, 
 
 * -^ frngiferum do. 
 
 * filiforme do. 
 
 * — agrarium do. 
 
 — aureum 
 
 Flores aurei. Floret circa fincra Aprilib. Ann. 
 
 * Tussilago f arfara of Liunajus. 
 
 243 
 
 244 • 
 
 245 • 
 
 246 • 
 247 
 
 248 • 
 
 249 • - 
 250 
 
 251 
 252 
 
 253 
 
 254 
 
 255 
 
 'Z56 
 
 257 
 
 258 
 
 259 
 
 260 ' 
 
 PLANTS WITHIN THE COLISEUM. 399 
 
 U 
 Urtica membranacea 
 
 pilulifera of Linnaeus. 
 
 dioica do. 
 
 • Valeriana olitoria of Willdenow. 
 Valantia muralis of Linnaeus 
 
 • Veronica agrestis do. 
 *. hederaefolia do. 
 
 cymbalaria of the Italian botanists, a rare 
 
 plant; flowers white. It flowers in February, 
 March, April, and in Autumn, and is an Annual. • 
 ' arvensis of Linnajus. 
 
 acinifolia of do. A common plant about 
 
 Rome 
 
 Verbena officinalis of Linnseus. 
 Verbascum sinuatum do. 
 
 Viburnum tinus 
 ' Vicia cracca 
 
 sativa 
 
 ' hybrida 
 
 -^■^ Bithynica 
 Viola odorata 
 
 do. 
 
 da. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 X 
 
 n 
 
 261 Xantium spinosum of Linnaeus. 
 
 • Bcrtoloni describes this species, Veronica folii cordato-rotimdatis 
 ^ subscp.. Ue^taus .^.cibus fructus patendbus, laciniis ovatis, capsuS 
 
ERRATA. 
 
 VOL. 1. 
 
 Page 10, line 9, 
 21, 25, 
 
 73, 2G, 
 
 84, 2, 
 
 80, 19, 
 
 81 to 84, title, 
 
 for Vangoen 
 — 4()G 
 
 read 
 
 87, 
 113, 
 121, 
 17G, 
 204, 
 
 217, 
 250, 
 254, 
 2C6, 
 340, 
 303, 
 
 28, 
 19, 
 
 20, 
 
 10, 
 7, 
 2, 
 
 18, 
 
 7, 
 8, 
 C, 
 3, 
 
 383, last note, — 
 
 appear . 
 notches . 
 della Bella 
 
 STATUES IN THE 
 STATUES IN THE 
 impression read 
 C'aracaggio ■ 
 
 Subterman 
 
 Serventi 
 
 Picnibino 
 
 Alcatico ■ 
 
 Piano 
 
 Cartona . 
 gameos . 
 
 clean — .. 
 
 other women 
 
 secluded ■ . 
 
 Vangoyen 
 1400 
 
 appearing 
 niches 
 dclle Belle 
 
 PALAZZO VECCHIO rcod 
 PIAZZO DEL GRANDUCA 
 
 expression 
 
 Caravaggio 
 
 Subtermans 
 
 Servienti 
 
 Piombino 
 
 Areatico 
 
 Pian 
 
 Cortona 
 
 cameos 
 
 clear 
 
 another woman 
 
 excluded. 
 
 VOL. IL 
 
 Page 
 
 13, 
 31, 
 
 40, 
 
 45, 
 
 84, 
 
 104, 
 
 137, 
 151, 
 150, 
 182, 
 240, 
 260, 
 263, 
 275, 
 2&7, 
 332, 
 333, 
 
 407, 
 
 line 1, dele and termini 
 
 8, for Glanber read Glauber 
 
 10, — inaccurate accurate 
 
 3, — La Pache — — La Pace 
 
 Q from hottoni^for grain read green 
 
 7 da before dome insert part of 
 
 8, after red insert earth 
 
 7, for repeatedly read rapidly 
 
 11, — finer 
 1, dck ore 
 6 from lotto fn, for about 
 5 do. for two roads divide 
 9 — plain 
 
 6 from bottom^ for muczzim 
 12, for bereft 
 1, » siroo 
 
 firmer 
 
 above 
 
 three roads meet 
 
 site of 
 ■ muezzin 
 - deprived 
 
 siroc 
 
 8 from bottom, for of classic buildings read and other 
 
 classic buildings. 
 2, for Zante read Patras 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE 
 ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 Design for a Cemetery, frontispiece to Vol L 
 
 Sketches from Italian Cottages, to front page 63 
 
 Fire at Pietra Mala, . - 72 
 
 Sketches of Italian and Grecian Chimneys, - 75 
 
 Fortress at Porte Ferrajo, with the Palace of Napoleon, 206 
 Fac-Simile of a Sketch by the Emperor Napoleon, 235 
 
 Sketch from the Skull of Raphael, 
 Italian Peasant, - - 
 
 Italian Peasant and Children, 
 Italian Costumes, 
 
 323 
 380 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 VOL. n. 
 
 Portrait of the Priest of Delphi, frontispiece to Vol 
 
 Castle of Otranto, - - to front page 
 
 Medals emblematical of the Ionian Islands, 
 
 Do. ^^• 
 
 Greek Dance, - " 
 
 Caloyer Priests of Daulis, 
 Etchings of Leaves, 
 
 Grecian Melodies, - • " 
 
 Greek Costumes, 
 
 //. 
 
 189 
 ib. 
 225 
 268 
 283 
 368 
 370 
 
•\: 
 
I 
 
 vX** ^ *. 
 
 i'.\*- 
 
 ;l '" 
 
 V 
 
 Williams, 
 Travels in Italy. 
 
 rc^ 
 
 A 
 
 i^ 
 
 ^Uf: I 
 
 y 
 
 •%\ 
 
 1 
 
 
I 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
i 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
Vo».n.P,^245. 
 
 ///J'A^^. 
 
 i 'V ■ IC'.I 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 IK A 
 
 SERIES OF LETTERS, 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF 
 
 MANNERS, SCENERY, AND THE FINE ARTS. 
 
 By n. W. WILLIAMS, Esq. 
 
 WITH ENGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS. 
 
 7.V TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 EDINBURGH : 
 
 PRINTKD FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO. EDINBURGH; 
 
 AXn IIITUST, ROIll.VSON, AXI) CO. 99, CIIIJAI'SIDE, LONDON. 
 
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 PDBT'JiAlT DF 
 
 TIGIS^ Ir^:i1.^1a;^^' Oir ^D^lLIPSLlt 
 
v'oi.n.p.r. 24.'i 
 
 ! 
 
 ^: 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 
 IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 IN A 
 
 SERIES OF LETTERS, 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF 
 
 MANNERS, SCENERY, AND THE FINE ARTS. 
 
 By II. W. WILLIAMS, Esq. 
 
 WITH ENGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES, 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 EDINBURGH : 
 
 PRINTI:D for ARCIIIIJALD constable and CO. EDINBURGH ; 
 
 AM) lUUSr, IJOIMN'SOX, AXI) CO. 1)3, C IIJAl'SIDE, LONDON'. 
 
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 P'o:KTiiA3':p o'iK 
 
 '£)1l:^ ir':jsiLai;£b':L' 0:2' jjiiiiiLi^iEiX 
 
TO 
 
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 EDINBURGH, 
 
 TO WHOM THEY WERE ORIGINALLY AOORESSED, 
 
 
 THE 
 
 v> 2- 
 
 LETFERS FROM GREECE 
 
 ARE INSCRIBED, 
 
 BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND, 
 
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 •aSfm-SSS^-^^.^. --^^ 
 
IJ 
 
 CONTENTS OF VOLUME 11. 
 
 LETTER XXXII. 
 Rome, — The Buonaparte Family, 
 
 Page 
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 Rome. — Statues in the Vatican. — Their effect upon the 
 mind. — Criticism. — The Statues seen by torch light, 
 especially the Apollo. — Laocoon. — General observa- 
 tions on the Statues. — Canova's Gladiators. — Unar- 
 ranged Marbles^ » • . • 
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 
 Rome. — Pictures and Marbles in the Capitol. — Statues 
 in the Villa Albani and Villa Ludovisi. — Guercino's 
 Aurora, compared with Guide's painting of the same 
 subject. — Observations on the Frescoes of the greatest 
 Masters, • • • • 
 
 LETTER XXXV. 
 
 Rome. — Dutch and Flemish School. — Cardinal 
 Fesch's Collection, « • • 
 
 LETTER XXXVL 
 
 Rome — Italian and other Schools. — Cardinal 
 Fesch's Collection of Italian, Venetian, and French 
 Masters. — Madame Mere's (Napoleon's Mother) 
 Pictures, and Lucien Buonaparte's, Prince of Canino, 
 
 18 
 
 30 
 
 45 
 
vm 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER XXXVII. Page 
 
 Rome.— Fresco Paintings in the Palazzo Costaguti.— 
 
 The Poniatowski Collection. — Description of the 
 
 Ancient Painting called the Aldobrandini Marriage. — 
 
 Ancient Paintings in the Baths of Titus. — Prices given 
 
 by the Ancients for Pictures Statues of Castor and 
 
 Pollux. — Prices given for Colossal Statues. — Michael 
 Angelo's Statue of Moses in the Church of St Peter 
 in Vincoli, • . • . • 
 
 LETTER XXXVin. 
 Rome. — Paintings in the Doria Palace, 
 
 LETTER XLL 
 
 Rome. — The Carnival — Amusements of the Carni- 
 val. — Rules to be observed by the People. — Religious 
 
 Ceremonies in the Holy Week Illumination of the 
 
 Dome of St Peter's.— Music called the Miserere- 
 Beautiful Effect in St Peter's. — Silence and Tempera- 
 ture, &c. - . - . - 
 
 62 
 
 73 
 
 LETTER XXXIX. 
 
 Rome. — Pictures in the Colonna Palace. — Description 
 of the Gallery. — Corsini Collection of Pictures. — 
 Corsini Villa, - - . . 79 
 
 LETTER XL. 
 
 Rome — Paintings in the Spada Palace. — Statue of Pom- 
 pey, supposed to be the Statue at which Caesar fell 
 by the arm of Brutus — Collection of Pictures in the 
 
 Sciarra Palace. — Barberini Pictures Frescoes by A. 
 
 Caracci The Farnese Palace^ 
 
 88 
 
 98 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 LETTER XLII. Page 
 
 Rome — Raphael's Frescoes in the Lodges of the Vati- 
 can, and in his Villa — Epitaphs of Salvator Rosa 
 and Claude Lorraine — Music at the Chiesa del Giesu. 
 — Holy Staircase. — Tivoli and other Towns near 
 Rome — Adieu to Rome, - - 106 
 
 LETTER XLIIL 
 
 Naples. — Journey to Naples. — Mount Vesuvius. — 
 Herculaneum. — Pompeii. — Collection of Paintings 
 and Antiquities in the Museum at Portici. — Goitres 
 between Naples and Portici. — Amusements at Naples, 114 
 
 LETTER XLIV. 
 
 Naples. — Journey to Paestum. — Character of the Tem- 
 ples. — Return to Naples — Statues in the Studii 
 
 Antiquities — Pictures — Papyri or Herculaneum 
 MSS. — Departure from Naples, - - 124, 
 
 LETTER XLV. 
 Corfu — Journey to Otranto, 
 
 LETTER XLVL 
 
 Corfu. — Voyage to Corfu. — Albanian Shore. — View 
 in approaching Corfu. — Arrival at Corfu Hospitali- 
 ty of Sir Thomas Maitland, Governor-General. — 
 His Character, - - - 
 
 LETTER XLVIL 
 
 Corfu. — City of Corfu. — Castradis — Cottage of the 
 Governor-General. — Ship of Ulysses. — General Ap- 
 pearance of the Island. — Village of Potamo. — View 
 
 from the Mountain of St Salvador. — Ball Laxity 
 
 of Morals. — Aristocracy divided into Russian and 
 English Parties. — Assassination. — Superstitions and 
 
 133 
 
 150 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 I 
 
 Page 
 Immorality of the People — Events in the Ancient 
 History of Corcyra, • . 15^ 
 
 Page 
 
 LETTER XLVIII. 
 Zante. — Islands of Paxo and Zante, 
 
 170 
 
 LETTER XLIX. 
 
 Cephalonia. — Mount iEnos Town ISIalaria 
 
 Vines — Fine Arts — Ancient Cities Temple of Ju- 
 piter — Tombs — Cyclopean Ruins Hills Propen- 
 sity of the Natives to Navigation, - - 188 
 
 LETTER L. 
 
 Ithaca. — Sail to Ithaca. — Counterfeit Coins Cave 
 
 of Dexia — Guiteria. — Palace of Ulysses Relics of 
 
 Antiquity — Rock of Corax — Fountain of Arethusa. 
 — Hills composed of Limestone. — Homer's School. 
 — Vathi. — Population. — Climate. — Wines, - 192 
 
 LETTER LL 
 
 Patras. — Doubts concerning the Antiquities of Itha- 
 ca — Appearance of the Ionian Islands from the Sea. 
 — Knavery of our Greek Skipper. — Land on the 
 Coast of Albania — River Acheliius Skipper's hat- 
 red of Ali Pasha — Coast of the Gulf of Lepanto 
 
 Appearance of Patras from the Sea. — Tomb of St 
 
 Andrew. — Greek Festival — Costumes. — Streets 
 
 Slovenly Disposition of the Inhabitants. — Steam 
 Bath. — Fragments of Marbles. — Ancient Gate at 
 Ephesus spoiled of its Ornaments. — Port of Patras.- 
 Trade — Consuls. — Expence of Living. — Climate.-- 
 Malaria — Plague — Greek Wedding, 
 
 202 
 
 LETTER LIE 
 
 Patras. Procession of a newly-married Lady to her 
 
 Husband's House— Greek Fast of Lent.— Turkish 
 
 Fast of Ramazan Honourable dealings of the Turks 
 
 contrasted with the Knavery of the Greeks — Indo- 
 lence of the Turks.— Mode of Sepulture — Ceme- 
 teries.— Greek Dances.— Female Slaves.— Partiality 
 
 to the English Views from Patras— Annual Pro- 
 
 cession to the River Meilichus — Mode of Building. 
 Intermarriages of Turks and Greeks, 
 
 LETTER LIII. 
 VosTizzA Journey from Patras to Vostizza, ancient- 
 ly TEgium, - " 
 
 221 
 
 230 
 
 LETTER LIV. 
 
 Delphi.— Voyage to Scala, and Journey to Delphi, 238 
 
 LETTER LV. 
 
 Delphi Reception on our arrival at the Priest's.— 
 
 Description of his House. — Castalian Spring. 
 
 Chapel of St John.— Monastery of Panagia — Village 
 
 of Castri Stadium. — Sepulchres.— Site of the 
 
 Temple of Apollo.— Desolation of Delphi.— Rocks 
 and Scenery, - " ' 
 
 LETTER LVI. 
 LiVADiA Journey along Parnassus to Livadia, 
 
 LETTER LVII. 
 Livadia— Ancient Lebadea.— Archon— His Fa- 
 mily.— Manners.— House of the Archon— Cave of 
 
 258 
 
Xll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 I 
 
 264 
 
 273 
 
 Trophonius^Fountains of Memory and ObJivion.. 
 1 own — Orchomenus, 
 
 LETTER LVIir. 
 IHEBES—Journey from Livadia to Thebes, 
 
 LETTER LIX. 
 
 "*' ' - - 279 
 
 LEITER FA'. 
 A TH ENS.— From EJeusis to Athens, 
 
 LETTER LXI. 
 ATHENs.-Pnyx and Parthenon, 
 
 LETTER LXII. 
 
 ^p!n!'""?'"""^ "^ ^'^^ ^^"^P^^ -^ Minerva.- 
 Panorama from the Top, &c. 
 
 287 
 
 294 
 
 300 
 
 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 ATHENs.-TempIe of Minerva Pohas, Erectheum, Pan- 
 
 305 
 LETTER LXIV. 
 Athens^- Temple of Theseus.-Dislocation of Co- 
 . lumns by L,ghtning._Cl.urch of St George.-Situa 
 t.o„ o the Te.p,e._Grandcurand Beauf/indel;.' 
 dent of Association . ^ ^ 
 
 311 
 
 LETTER LXV. 
 
 Athens. -Reflections regarding the breaking and 
 pounding of Sculptured Marbles by the Turk. Sw 
 
 JO 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XlU 
 
 ti 
 
 LETTER LXVL Page 
 
 Athens.— Observations on the Character and Expres- 
 sion of the Doric Order, . ^ 324 
 
 LETTER LXVII. 
 
 Athens.- The Arts.— Character of the Drawings of 
 Haller, Lusieri, and Fauvel, - . - 32S 
 
 LETTER LXVIII. 
 
 Athens.— Circuit of the Town and Acropolis, to esta- 
 bhsh the finest Points of View— Necessity of such a 
 
 Circuit.— Effects of near and distant Views View 
 
 from Lycabettus.— Effects of Clouds— Skies the 
 principal Machinery of Nature.— Waiwode and Wives. 
 —Monument of Philopappus, - . 33^ 
 
 LETTER LXIX. 
 
 Athens — Continuation and conclusion of the Circuit 
 
 of Athens, which includes Jupiter Oiympius The 
 
 View from Hagio Asomato and Mount Anchesmus, 
 Colonus Hippius, and the Academy Tomb of Peri- 
 cles, - - - - n^ ^ 
 
 - - - - 344 
 
 LETTER LXX. 
 
 Athens.- Description of the Streets, Markets, and 
 Dance of Dervishes, - . , 351 
 
 LETTER LXXI. 
 
 Athens — Continuation of the description of Athens. 
 — Philomouson Society.— Grecian Music— Games.* 
 —Dress— Usury.— Weather.— Report of the Plague! 
 —Ignorance of the Greek Physicians— Opium-Eatcr. 
 —Preparations for Departure— Resolve to visit Cape 
 Colonni.— Apology for Signor Lusieri, - . 35/5 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER LXXir. Pa^e 
 
 Corinth. — Departure from Athens. — Piraeus Cape 
 
 Colonni. — Temple of Minerva Sunias Views in sail- 
 ing up the Gulf of iEgina. — Island of TEgina. — Sin- 
 gular mode of Rowing — Isthmus of Corinth, &c. - 378 
 
 LETTER LXXin. 
 Corinth — The Temple, and Views of the Town, - 392 
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 
 Patras. — Journey from Corinth to Patras, - 39G 
 
 LETTER LXXV. 
 
 Patras — Necessary preparations for 'I'ravelling in 
 
 Greece. — Baggage. — Servant 1 liring Vessels. 
 
 Money> — Presents. — Medical Directions, - 405 
 
 LETTER LXXVL 
 Departure from Greece, and Return to England, 4-11 
 
 Conclusion, - - . • 417 
 
 Appendix, - - - - 421 
 
 No. I — Description of Signor Pizzamano's Medals, 423 
 
 No. II. — Revenue of the Ionian Islands, 
 No. Ill — Slate of the Island of Ithaca, 181(i, 
 
 425 
 
 427 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 iv 
 
 ITALY, GREECE, AND THE 
 
 IONIAN islands. 
 
# 
 
 LETTER XXXI r. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 The Buonaparte Family, 
 
 l^HE members of the Buonaparte family at Rome 
 consist of the Princess Pauline, married to Prince 
 Borghese; Louis Buonaparte, the Ex-King of 
 Holland ; Lucien, the Prince of Canino, and his 
 family ; and lastly, the mother of Napoleon Buo- 
 naparte. The first of these personages was the 
 favourite sister of the ex-emperor, and during his 
 residence in Elba, he was in the habit of placing 
 her close to him when they were in company ; he 
 would sometimes turn round while at dinner, and 
 desire one of his officers to compose some quatrain 
 in honour of the princess's charms, and to recite it 
 to her at the table. One of those officers, who 
 accompanied him to Elba, shewed a friend of mine 
 several verses, that had been composed by himself 
 in obedience to his master's injunctions. 
 
 VOL. II. A t 
 
2 
 
 BUONAPARTE FAMILY. 
 
 The princess lives separate from her husband, 
 but she is allowed to occupy the splendid building 
 of the Borghese palace at Rome. At present the 
 prince resides at Florence. Napoleon, during his 
 supremacy, had endeavoured to bring him forward 
 in some public capacity, but the attempt is said to 
 have failed ; his inattention rendering it necessary 
 to withdraw him from the situations to which he 
 was appointed. The Princess Pauline is fond of 
 society ; she is, indeed, said to display much of 
 the coquetry and vanity of a French woman of 
 fashion. Canova has executed a statue of her, the 
 symmetry and luxurious attitude of which is much 
 admired. One evening she issued invitations for a 
 large rout ; the form of the invitation expressed 
 her hope, that she should have the company of 
 such and such persons, " to see the statue by Ca- 
 nova lighted up." 
 
 Persons sufficiently well acquainted, by the 
 length of their intercourse, with the Buonaparte 
 family, to describe the characters of the different 
 members of it, gave the reputation of superior 
 amiableness to two other sisters of Napoleon, Ma- 
 dame Baiocchi and Madame Murat ; the former 
 is always mentioned with particular respect. 
 
 Lucien carefully abstains from shewing himself in 
 public, though he admits such English society as are 
 mtroduced to him. He never touches on political 
 
 BUONAPARTE FAMILY. g 
 
 subjects, or can be betrayed into conversing upon 
 them when introduced by others, who are desirous 
 of learning his opinion. He affects an occasional 
 air of frivolity in conversation, probably as a veil to 
 the serious designs, with which he has been said to 
 be occupied respecting his brother. However that 
 may be, it is said to be a difficult matter to draw 
 him out into giving his opinions on any subject, 
 whether political or not. He had commenced 
 farming, partly after the English manner, at hi^ 
 country villa La Rufinella, supposed by some to 
 stand on the scite of Cicero's Tusculan villa. His 
 passion for agriculture had, however, much cool- 
 ed, and was succeeded by a passion for astro, 
 nomy. He is in possession of a fine telescope, 
 and some other optical instruments by Dolland, 
 but I learned that he was fickle in all these differ- 
 ent pursuits, and soon abandoned them. His 
 dwelling in Rome is sufficiently handsome, and he 
 has often small parties in the evening for music or 
 dancing ; two of his daughters play and sing pret- 
 tily, and express a partiality for Scotch music, 
 especially that published by Mr George Thom- 
 son of Edinburgh : one of their favourite airs is, 
 •' Scots wha ha'e wi' Wallace bled." His eldest 
 daughter (the fruit of his first marriage) was mar- 
 ried to a Roman nobleman. Her uncle had, at one 
 period, designed her to become the spouse of Fer- 
 dinand, the present King of Spain, but afterwards 
 
4 
 
 BL'ONAPAUTK FAMILY. 
 
 altered his plan, thinking that something more 
 was necessary to secure the firil dependence of 
 Spain upon his own power. 
 
 The mother of Napoleon, formerly dignified 
 by the title of Madame M-ere, resides, toge- 
 ther with her brother CarSinal Fesch, in the 
 Palazzo Falcone. She lived in seclusion, and 
 was even said to have become a devotee. Only 
 one of her former ladies of honour remains with 
 her ; she occupies, however, a fine suite of apart- 
 ments, very handsomely furnished, and with a 
 greater attention to comfort than is usual in Ita- 
 lian houses. She affects none of the reserve of 
 Lucien on certain subjects, but speaks with tears in 
 her eyes of the ex-emperor, displays the feelings of 
 a mother in her language respecting him, and 
 laments that he has not written to any of his fami- 
 ly since his being at St Helena, fondly cherishing 
 the hope, (which appears to prevail among the adhe- 
 rents of Buonaparte,) that the English government 
 would finally set him at liberty ; and generally con- 
 eludes with some strong encomiums on the character 
 of the English nation, with the generosity of which 
 she declares herself well acquainted. Madame 
 Mere has evidently been a very fine woman ; at her 
 advanced period of life she still looks well, through 
 the aid of her toilette; her manners are even digni- 
 fied. She appears a queen, and refutes, as do her 
 daucrhters, those notions of the vulgar manners of 
 
 EX-KING OF SPAIN. 
 
 the ladies of the Buonaparte family, which were so 
 easily accredited in Britain. In one of the rooms 
 in Lucien's palace*is a bust of Niccolo Buonaparte, 
 the father, which* exhibits a countenance of re- 
 markable expression ; finer, indeed, than that of 
 Napoleon or any of tlie family. 
 
 Rome at this time, I8I7, is the residence of 
 other princely families. The abdicated King of 
 Sardinia, the Ex-Queen of Etruria, and the former 
 King of Spain, Charles. The first of these per- 
 sonages lives pretty closely the life of a devotee ; 
 but the King of Spain intermixes with his religious 
 offices a very tolerable attention to the pleasures 
 of the table. 
 
 The Prince of Peace retains with Charles that 
 influence which has been fatal to his interests 
 and those of Spain ; the minion still of Charles's 
 queen, his presence is considered necessary to 
 the royal happiness. *' I could not support ex- 
 istence without that dear man," was the expres- 
 sion of King Charles to a Roman physician, from 
 whom we had the anecdote. The prince possess- 
 es a fine palace, with a collection of pictures, said 
 to be very valuable : he has recently married his 
 natural daughter advantageously to a Roman noble- 
 man. 
 
 The allowance made by the court of Spain to 
 Charles is sufficiently liberal, and beyond his ap- 
 parent means of expenditure j it w^as estimated at 
 
? 
 
 g EX-KING OF SPAIN. 
 
 about L. 10,000 a month, but complaints were 
 made that it was not regularly paid. His bro- 
 ther, the King of Naples, possesses considerable 
 property at Rome, as the inheritor of the proper- 
 ty of the Faruese family. As part of this inhe- 
 ritance, many of the celebrated antiquities and 
 statues now in Naples were carried thither from 
 Home. 
 
 .» i 
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Siatues in the Fat icatu^ Their effect upon the mind.^Criti' 
 asm — The Statues seen by torch light, especially the 
 Apollo.— Laocoon — General observations on the Statues. 
 — Canovas Gladiators, — Unarranged Marbles, 
 
 In walking through the Galleries of Statues in the 
 Vatican, which are of prodigious extent, I felt 
 an emotion of reverence in viewing those works 
 which have been handed down to us through so 
 many ages. A similar sentiment, indeed, seemed 
 to influence the minds of all ; for, although a 
 considerable number of people were present, none 
 spoke aloud ; — all whispered as they walked among 
 the representations of the gods of the ancients, 
 together with those w^orks amidst which they pre- 
 sided of old. This feeling of veneration and re- 
 spect, joined to the excellence of the sculpture, ' 
 disposed us to admire beauty rather than to dis- 
 cover faults. Some hardened critics, however, fa- 
 miliar with these wonders of art, prevailed upon 
 us to listen to their discourse. At first, it was 
 
8 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 9 
 
 with reluctance, but at last we ourselves presum- 
 ed to criticise. Then dropped the enchanted veil, 
 and enthusiasm and deference gave place to cold 
 examination. The eye that had been enraptured 
 with innumerable beauties, sought for defects ! and, 
 as a punishment for such ingratitude, the graces 
 fled, or left a faint impression on the mind. 
 
 In addition to our repeated morning visits to 
 these inimitable statues, we have likewise seen 
 them by torch light, and surely no exhibition 
 could possibly be more interesting. I would fain 
 attempt to describe it to you, were I not sure that 
 I should fail. Let me remind you how jealous 
 Apollo has always been of his own honour, and that 
 of all under his protection, and be satisfied that it 
 will be wise in me not to attempt any thing further 
 than the merest hints ; for, might I not incur 
 displeasure, should I fail in doing justice to his 
 statue, and the innumerable others over which 
 he presides ? W hat, were I to speak in the 
 language of the critics, and say that one of his 
 lejrs is longer than the other, or that his head is 
 strangely placed between his shoulders ? * If, too, 
 
 • Barry says, ** That the right clavicle and shoulder wants 
 magnitude to correspond with the other parts ; and that, whe- 
 ther owing to the legs having been broken off above the ancle, 
 the ends of the tibia and fibula, which form the inner and 
 outer ancle, do not seem to be in their proper places.'' 
 
 Barry ^ Vol. I.p, 449. 
 
 I should say that the Laocoon shews more expres- 
 sion of bodily suffering than of feeling for his 
 children, would I not have cause to tremble ? Are 
 there not serpents still that might writhe and twist 
 about me ? 
 
 Let me briefly say, then, that when our conduc- 
 tors were preparing their torches in the hall of the 
 Egyptian sphinxes, we observed the most singular 
 and bewitching effects imaginable. The numerous 
 figures, seen in mysterious shade, appeared like the 
 ghosts of the ancients, raised by the spell of a sor- 
 cerer; the sphinxes in dark shadow opposed to 
 them, being perfectly in unison with the enchanted- 
 looking scene, and affording at the same time the 
 finest contrast of light and shade. In the full blaze 
 of light, too, the whole looked well, and many sub- 
 ordinate objects were revealed to our admiring eyes. 
 From this situation we ascended to the Rotundo ; 
 and thence from one museum to another, filled 
 with statues of astonishing excellence, and almost 
 overpowering to the mind, till we came to the room 
 of Apollo. 
 
 From every point of view, and under every effect, 
 this matchless statue appeared divine ! But when 
 the great light was placed behind, he seemed as 
 if advancing from the sun, the golden rays falling 
 on his godlike countenance, and tipping his shoulder 
 and quiver, while reflected light played among his 
 limbs in tones of pearly grey,— exciting in the be- 
 
 I 
 
10 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 holder the idea, that this inimitable work was claim- 
 ed at once by heaven and by earth ! 
 
 The Laocoon did not appear to such advantage 
 as by the morning light ; though some learned 
 judges will insist, that this group must have been 
 purposely made to have a superior effect by such 
 illumination, having been found in a niche in an 
 apartment in the baths of Titus, where no day-light 
 could enter. This, I think, is carrying hypothesis 
 as far as it will go. The group, which consists of 
 numerous parts, requires a powerful light to give it 
 the proper simplicity and breadth ; in side lights, 
 the shadows were dark and opaque, and every par- 
 ticular seemed to intrude upon the general effect; 
 the beard looked shaggy, and too much divided 
 into black divisions. When the whole lights, how- 
 ever, were in front, every defect of this kind was 
 removed ; and, as seen from within an adjoining 
 apartment, in all this splendour of light, there 
 certainly is no work of art, excepting the statue 
 of Apollo, to compare to it. This magnificent 
 group is more expressive of nature than of the beau 
 ideal : at least, comparing it with the statue of 
 Apollo, it does not indicate so great an exertion 
 of the mind. But what a splendid example of se- 
 lection ! what knowledge of bodily and mental suf- 
 fering, penetrating through every fibre, and com- 
 manding our spontaneous sympathy ! 
 
 The famous Torso, so much admired by Michael 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 11 
 
 Angelo, is remarkable for muscular expression. 
 The enlightened Mr John Bell, who accompanied 
 us, and whose knowledge in anatomy is pre-eminent, 
 considers it as a wonderful production in that respect. 
 The fragment is placed in the centre of a room 
 among other splendid and invaluable remains of an- 
 tiquity, and never fails to recal recollections of past 
 greatness, and to draw forth sighs for its degradation. 
 From this situation we walked down, and returned 
 through the long Corridor, which of itself contains 
 so many works in all the departments of sculpture, 
 that to describe them would require a volume ; and 
 from thence paid a second visit to the Rotundo, 
 which we had left, being anxious to see the Apollo 
 and Laocoon first. This arrangement also permit- 
 ted us to see them with less fatigue, than if we 
 had previously examined a multiplicity of other 
 objects. 
 
 In the Rotundo, the statues are all very fine, 
 but they do not rank in the highest class. We were 
 much pleased with a Sacrificing Priest in that 
 apartment, though we wished that he had not been so 
 overloaded with drapery. A Discobolus has simple 
 beauty ; Phocion is admirable. There is a second 
 Discobolus in a momentary action, throwing the 
 discus ; the body is remarkably fine, but the dis- 
 agreeable position of the left leg, with the toes 
 strangely drawn up, has not a pleasing effect. Ca- 
 nova is of opinion, that if such an attitude were 
 
f 
 
 12 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 13 
 
 attempted in the present day, the sculptor would 
 be supposed to be out of his senses. There is like- 
 wise a statue of a Philosopher and an Apollo, 
 extremely beautiful. 
 
 In an apartment, in which there are two sarco- 
 phagi in porphyry, are some exquisite busts and 
 statues. Amonjr the former is a colossal head of 
 Serapis, very fine. Next to it is an Ocean us 
 or Neptune, blended with the characteristics of 
 Bacchus ; his eyebrows represent vine leaves ; he 
 has grapes in his hair, and dolphins in his beard, 
 the lower part of which is waved like the sea. 
 Then follow an Antinols, full and voluptuous in 
 expression, the hair hanging in ringlets behind, 
 like those of a woman's ; the side view is beauti- 
 ful, but the front not so pleasing : Hadrian, full 
 of character and expression : Claudius, a magni- 
 ficent bust, and not unlike Napoleon : Jupiter, 
 a singular conlbnnation of head ; indeed, none of 
 the busts of Jupiter I have ever seen give any 
 idea of Homer's Jove ; they are all too fat, bulky, 
 and without mental expression. 
 
 In the room of Apollo and the Muses, many 
 of the statues of the muses are undoubtedly fine, 
 and others but indifferent. Apollo, though an ad- 
 mirable figure, may be mistaken for one of them, 
 being very like a female in appearance and dress ; 
 but as the muses seem to be on good terms with 
 him, it is not for rae to make farther observations. 
 
 The busts and teniiini of poets and philosophers, 
 between the statues of the Muses, are full of nature 
 and exquisite art. 
 
 In the Hall of Animals are some admirable 
 specimens of animals, such as lions, tigers, goats, 
 greyhounds, birds, and fishes ; and a most remark- 
 able representation of a lobster. A sweet little 
 fountain delighted us all ; it is composed of a rib- 
 bed shell, with a duck reclining in it ; the whole 
 of these ancient works seem as if they had just 
 come out of the hands of the sculptor. 
 
 From the Hail of Animals we again passed 
 the rooms containing the Laocoon, the Apollo, and 
 Torso, and came to the statue of Meleager, which 
 is a beautiful youthful figure, (though not of the 
 liighest class,) with drapery twisted round his aim. 
 The dog on his right seems as if it were stufled ; 
 It has no articulation of the joints, or characteristic 
 markinjTs. 
 
 In the room called Canova's room, we saw his 
 statue of Perseus, and also two Gladiators. 
 Canova is much beholden to the Apollo for the 
 former ; indeed, it is a palpable imitation. The 
 Gladiators are vulgar and disagreeable in ex- 
 pression. The hand of the gladiator who tore 
 out the heart of his opponent should have been 
 horizontal ; * it is impossible to conceive how it 
 
 * According to the story from which this sculptuie is taken, 
 two Gladiators had mutually boasted that they would dis- 
 
14 
 
 STATUES IN THK VATICAN. 
 
 STATbES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 15 
 
 could enter between the ribs in its present posi- 
 tion. They are by no means agreeable figures, 
 and certainly excited little interest, which of them 
 should be first in the work of butchery. How easy 
 it is to discover faults, more especially when they 
 are opposed to so many beauties as may be found 
 in Canova's works ! Passing from these, we saw 
 a fine figure of Antinols, different from the one 
 in the Capitol ; a piece of drapery is twisted round 
 the left arm, the right is broken off. 
 
 An apartment, called the Statue Gallery, con- 
 tains innumerable statues. The reclining figure 
 of Ariadne, and a figure of Adonis, struck us 
 as being particularly beautiful ; the former, I find, 
 has been studied by N. Poussin. Two Greek 
 poets, supposed to represent Posidippus and Me- 
 NANDER, are good statues. Farther on, among in- 
 conceivable busts and various fragments, appears 
 a statue of Jove, who seems to be weighing his 
 thunder in his hand, — not a very superior work of 
 art. In another apartment is a beautiful stoop- 
 ing Venus ; the left leg, however, seemed a little 
 faulty. In the same room is a Faun with glass 
 eyes, suggesting the idea of a cat in the dark ; 
 but in every other respect it is an admirable 
 
 patch each other by a single effort ; agreeing lh.it the mode of 
 attack should be left to the choice of each. The one is in the 
 attitude ot striking a downward blow ; the one thrusts his hand 
 into the breast of his antagonist, and tears out his heart. 
 
 Statue. The rooms of Vases, Candelabra, Mosak, 
 and Inscriptions, united with the great mass of 
 sculpture in the Vatican, are quite overwhelming, 
 and when I look at a few sheets of letter paper,' 
 and think, too, of the limited time I can bestow 
 on any attempt to describe them, I confess I am 
 obliged to drop the subject in despair. 
 
 The principal advantage in examining the an- 
 cient statues with torches, seems to be the variety 
 of effect which it affords, allowing us to examine 
 them in any light best adapted to disclose their 
 general character. I cannot help thinking, how- 
 ever, that the shadows want that clearness which is 
 desirable, and that the details are often too per- 
 ceptible, and break in upon the general effect : this 
 could be avoided by a variety of torches, but day- 
 light surely would be preferable. The moon was 
 a mere crescent when we passed along the open 
 gallery, which contains some of these divine works ; 
 and we could not but admire how completely she 
 transferred one of the statues into the goddess 
 Diana, by appearing just above its head. The 
 stars, too, as it were, played among them, while 
 the limpid fountain fell in trembling lines of silver 
 light. 
 
 Through permission given to us by Canova, we 
 have seen the prodigious collection of unarranged 
 marbles in the lower part of the Vatican, "for 
 which a gallery is preparing by the present Pope. 
 
16 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 Among them may be seen several excellent sta- 
 tues, and other precious relics of antiquity, highly 
 deserving of careful study. The famous statue of 
 the River Nile presides over these, as Apollo does 
 over the matchless collection in the galleries above. 
 This statue was in Paris, and considerably injured, 
 but it is now repaired, and does not seem to be 
 much the worse for its tedious journey. The 
 figure, which is in a recumbent attitude, has the 
 very look of plenty. Various cherubs (sixteen in 
 number) are climbing about him, indicating the 
 various stages of the mighty river. His cornuco- 
 pia teems with the fruits of the earth, and his 
 countenance looks content. 
 
 This collection, among other things, informs us, 
 that female vanity is confined to no particular 
 age. Eve herself is represented by Milton as con- 
 scious of superior charms, when she viewed her 
 countenance reflected in the waters of Eden. It 
 is, however, not so easy to determine, at what mo- 
 ment vanity leaves the fair on this side the grave. 
 The Roman sculptors of antiquity represent a 
 female of the Manilian family, at least sixty years 
 of age, as Venus, in the same attitude as Venus 
 de Medicis, — with all the expression, too, and 
 air of a girl of sixteen. It was difficult to sup- 
 press a smile at this grotesque and unnatural union. 
 The folly of such pretensions can never be more 
 severely satirized. Would some of our British 
 
 STATUES IN THE VATICAN. 
 
 17 
 
 dowagers hold the mirror up to nature, and see 
 tliemselves as others see them, they would feel the 
 ridicule of so feigned a character, and descend 
 from the car whereon they had once triumphed, 
 when their age of victory had gone by. Another 
 elderly female, Julia Pia, was represented with 
 the skin of a lion, and the club of Hercules ! more 
 formidable and striking, surely, than amiable and 
 
 winninfT:. 
 
 ►vr: 
 
 In one of the apartments of this great reposi- 
 tory are innumerable heads lying upon the floor, 
 as if they had been thrown down in cart-loads, and 
 it was not a little ridiculous to obseive many busts 
 and statues in a state of preparation to receive 
 new ears and noses. Of these, indeed, there is a 
 regular manufactory in the Vatican, together witli 
 le„'s, arms, and hands, and all the details of tlie 
 human figure. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 B 
 
PICTURES IN THK CAPITOL. 
 
 19 
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Pictures and Marbles in the Capitol — Statues in the Villa 
 Aidant and Villa Ludovisi.-^Guercinos Aurora, compared 
 xvith Guido's painting of the same subject, — Observations 
 on the Frescoes of the greatest Masters, 
 
 The collection of paintings in the Museum of the 
 Capitol is very small, and not very select. Those by 
 Domenichino, Guercino, and Guido, are by much 
 the best, but none of them are entitled to rank 
 hiofher than second-rate works. 
 
 In the first room is a painting of Bacchus and 
 Ariadne by Guido. The figures are certainly 
 well drawn, but in colouring they are pale and 
 vapid. Bacchus is introduced to Ariadne by a 
 beautiful nymph ; but one would think, from his 
 dancinff-master-like attitude, that it was the first 
 time he had been in good company. A sword and 
 sash lie at his feet, which possibly he may have 
 taken by mistake from some other god. Several 
 drunken children appear to be drinking wine, and 
 except this circumstance, the picture has no other 
 reference to Bacchus. Indeed, we were grateful 
 for not being so situated as to be obliged to praise it. 
 
 J 
 
 The celebrated Sybil by Guercino, which has 
 been copied a thousand times, and of which there 
 is a good engraving, is undoubtedly a beautiful pic- 
 ture, but it has the appearance of a portrait, more 
 than of an elevated ideal character. From the little 
 knowledge I have of physiognomy, I should not 
 expect much more than a pretty billet-doux, or a 
 simple sonnet from her pen. The Sybil by Do- 
 menichino, in the same apartment, is in a much 
 higher style, and her countenance beams with in- 
 telligence. 
 
 Judith and Holofernes appears to be a du- 
 plicate of the famous picture by Guido, in the pos- 
 session of Mr Alexander Gordon of Edinburgh, 
 but by no means so splendid.* 
 
 In the picture of Romulus and Remus by 
 Rubens, the colouring is very rich, but the chil- 
 dren appear to be too pink and raw. They are 
 well relieved, however, by the figure which re- 
 presents the River Tyber ; the wolf is excellent ; 
 some birds appear to be picking cherries, to assist 
 the wolf to feed his precious charge ; this, though 
 totally absurd and inconsistent with nature, is per- 
 haps not more so than the story of the wolf it- 
 self. 
 
 These few pictures seemed to me to be the best 
 in the first apartment. 
 
 • The Romans are sparing of their varnish, and, conse- 
 quently, some of the finest pictures look opaque and heavy. 
 VOL. II. t 
 
60 
 
 Statues in the capitol. 
 
 In the second room is a painting by Guercino, 
 of St Prunello, a good picture in many re- 
 spects, but without any apparent plan of light and 
 shade. There are also some clever sketches by 
 Guido, and a picture of Europa, said to be by 
 Paul Veronese* 
 
 The collection of statues is very considerable in 
 number, and admirable in character. The Dying 
 Gladiator ranks at the head of the first class, 
 which embraces the Antinous, Alexander, 
 Zend, Cupid and Psyche, Juno, and many 
 others. The Dying Gladiator is, indeed, won- 
 derfully fine ; the faintness of death is admir- 
 ably expressed, and the first glance banishes all 
 hope. It were to be wished, however, that such 
 excellent and scientific workmanship had been 
 given to a more elevated subject than a slave, 
 whose low condition is fixed upon our notice by 
 a rope about his neck. From the peculiarity, and, 
 I may say, mannerism, of the knuckles, I am in- 
 clined to think that this statue was executed by 
 the same sculptor who made the statue of the 
 Knife-Grinder, exhibited in the Tribune at Flo- 
 rence. 
 
 Tlie Antinous, as it appeared among the other 
 statues, seemed straight and meagre ; the legs, 
 especially, are by no means so finely fonned as in 
 many other statues in this collection. The head, 
 as you know, is inimitable. The Cupid and 
 
 STATUES in the CAPITOL. 
 
 n 
 
 Psyche are extremely beautiful ; the chaste senti- 
 ment which they express, must captivate every 
 spectator of feeling. The haunch of Cupid, per- 
 haps, is too like that of a female's, but he is repre- 
 sented at an age when the difference of sex on 
 the contour of the external form is scarcely distin- 
 guishable. 
 
 To give a particular description of these precious 
 marbles would require a longer letter than I can af- 
 ford to send you at present. Indeed, were I to enter 
 into minute details, you might not be much amused 
 with them ; for, I believe there can hardly be any 
 thing more tiresome, than to read what is called 
 a catalogue raisonnee. As a curious specimen of 
 ancient art, however, I may mention an admirable 
 statue of a Faun, in the Stanza del Fauno, and a 
 Centaur in redstone, with glass eyes. The for- 
 mer is truly exquisite; nothing can exceed the 
 fine manly proportion of the figure, the beautiful 
 expression of the muscles, and the articulation of 
 the knees and joints. The latter is remarkable 
 for spirited action and perfect truth, combined by 
 the most pleasing and elegant taste. 
 
 There is a pretty good ancient copy of the 
 Venus de Medicis in the Apartment of the Gladia- 
 tor, and that leads me to observe, that this statue 
 has been repeatedly copied. It seems, indeed, to 
 have been as great a liavourite with the ancients 
 as with the modems; but it rarely happens 
 
22 
 
 VILLA ALBANI. 
 
 STATUES IN THE VILLA ALBANI. 
 
 23 
 
 that these representations are good ; indeed, 1 may 
 say the original figure is inimitable ; compared with 
 it, all the copies are heavy and bulky. I do not 
 remember seeing any ancient representation of the 
 Apollo Belvidere, (except one,) or any figure that 
 could lead to a discovery of the subject of the 
 famous Torso ; a circumstance that inclines one 
 to suppose that they were not held in so high esti- 
 mation. 
 
 The innumerable excellent busts, and other 
 precious relics of Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman 
 sculpture, present a collection for study, which 
 would afford endless amusement and improvement. 
 The square of the Campidoglio, or Capitol, contains 
 the finest equestrian statue in the world. Marcus 
 
 AURELIUS, AND HIS ANIMATED ChARGER, COmpel 
 
 us to do homage to the splendid talents of the ancient 
 Romans, and to regret, that the same high mind 
 and discriminating eye have ceased to distinguish 
 their successors in that fine department of art. 
 In short, the prodigious variety of sculpture which 
 we pass with a glance in Rome, from the eye be- 
 coming fastidious on examining the more perfect 
 remains, would be studied and greatly admired in 
 countries where sculpture is rarely to be found. 
 
 Among the private collections of marbles, the 
 finest, undoubtedly, are those at the llUa Albania 
 and the Villa Lvdovizi. The Villa Albani be- 
 longs to a prince of that name, and is seated on a 
 
 -2 
 
 gentle rising ground at no great distance from 
 Rome. The views from it are quite Italian ; the 
 long horizontal line of the Campagna, bounded by 
 Soracte and the Alban Mount, unite to admiration 
 with the cypress and the pine ; and the classical 
 statues are always at hand to furnish superior interest 
 to the fore-ground. Viewed from a little distance, 
 the villa does not seem to so much advantage ; the 
 marble statues, scattered about, give a spotty ap- 
 pearance, and interfere greatly with simplicity. 
 The gardens too are extremely formal ; but while 
 we walk in them, and find that the numerous 
 statues, river-gods and goddesses, and busts, are 
 chiefly ancient, subordinate circumstances give way 
 to amazement, and any want of taste, displayed 
 in laying out the grounds, is entirely overlooked. 
 
 The profusion of marbles, indeed, is quite as- 
 tonishing : Even in the walls of the casinos may 
 be seen several precious relics of antiquity, while 
 within the palace are seen some of the finest speci- 
 mens in Rome, of almost every description of 
 sculpture, from the Etruscan to the most refined 
 specimens of Grecian and Roman art. Here the 
 student may see the progress, from the stifF execu- 
 tion and narrow views of nature, to the flowing 
 lines of grace, and the comprehensive and magni- 
 ficent views of art. An alto relievo of Antinous, 
 in one of the apartments, is perhaps unrivalled, 
 and certainly stands at the head of the collection. 
 
24 
 
 STATUES IN THE VILLA LUDOVIZI. 
 
 STATUES IN THE VILLA LUDOVIZI. 
 
 25 
 
 In a Victory, the delicacy, and exquisite attitudes 
 of several female figures, are inimitably fine. In 
 the representation of aBATTLE, in which aHoRSEap- 
 pears, character and spirit is sustained to admiration. 
 The statue of Faustina, seated in her chair, chal- 
 leno-es any similar work for ease and beauty ; and 
 her feet — nothing was ever more exquisite ! But 
 it is wrong to name a few, when there are many 
 that are so perfect ; indeed, for the artist or con- 
 noisseur, there is, perhaps, no place which affords 
 a o-reater variety of select and precious works than 
 the Villa AlhanL 
 
 In the Villa Ludoviziis a noble statue of Mars 
 Reposing, which may rank among the greatest works 
 of sculpture. He is represented sitting, and the 
 figure is youthful, yet expressive of manly beauty ; 
 his hands rest on his left knee, which is bent ; his 
 shield is on his right, and his sword is in his left 
 hand, and Cupid appears smiling at his feet. It 
 is a naked figure, with only a little drapery over 
 the right knee. The figure is full, and perhaps 
 more expressive of a magnificent youth, than of 
 the God of War. A group, said to be PArmius 
 pretending to disclose the secret of the senate to 
 HIS Mother, cannot fail to charm the beholder. 
 Papirius is a lovely figure, in an easy and natural 
 attitude ; his mother gently leans upon his right 
 shoulder, and appears to coax him in so tender, 
 persuasive, and bewitching a manner, that it is im- 
 
 possible to believe that he could have deceived 
 her. * The sculpture is by Menelaus. A statue 
 of Bacchus holding up his right arm squeezing 
 a bunch of grapes into a cup, is truly excellent, 
 presenting a better idea of the God of Wine, 
 than the swelled and bloated-looking monster 
 which we generally find him represented to be. 
 Two figures, supposed to be Paetus supporting his 
 Wife Arria, after her having mortally wounded 
 herself, form a splendid group, full of expression 
 
 1 
 
 • The story which forms the subject of this group is gene- 
 rally known. His mother endeavours to learn from Papirius, 
 a youth introduced by his father into the Senate House be- 
 fore the proper age, what were the deliberations of that august 
 assembly, proving, that, in those patriotic days of Rome, 
 female curiosity was chiefly concerned about matters from 
 which the Spectator would have debarred his fair contempora- 
 ries. With the caution of a young statesman, Papirius 
 amused his mother with a delusive answer, calculated to ope- 
 rate on her feminine feelings. He told her, that the question 
 which occupied the attention of the senate, was ; Whether one 
 wile should be allowed to have two husbands, or two husbands 
 to have one wife. The alternative was alarming. The dread- 
 ful dilemma was communicated to the Roman matrons, 
 who, with one voice, petitioned the senate next day, that the 
 wives might be allowed to have two husbands each, rather 
 than that two wives should be condemned to one husband. 
 The senators, amazed at the petition, on learning the cause of 
 it, passed a decree, that no youth, under a ceitain age, should 
 be admitted into the Senate IJouse, except the prudent youn 
 man Papiiius. 
 
 o 
 
26 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE VILLA LUDOVIZI. 
 
 and elevated character. Moulds from this group, 
 and from the statue of Mars and Papirius and 
 his mother, were forming for casts to be presented 
 to the Prince Regent. There are also in this 
 collection some excellent colossal busts of Juno ; a 
 beautiful statue of Agrtppina, and many other 
 statues and marbles in exquisite taste, and of the 
 most perfect workmanship. 
 
 In the same villa is the magnificent fresco paint- 
 ing of Aurora, by Guercino, which, for powerful 
 richness, freshness of colouring, and fine poetical 
 conception, claims unbounded praise. Aurora, 
 from the bed of Tithonus, sits in her car scattering 
 flowers, indicating the sweetness and freshness of 
 the early morning. Female figures, representing 
 the hours, are in advance, and are putting out the 
 stars with their hands. A sweet little cherub be- 
 hind the golden car of Aurora, seemingly shiver- 
 ing with the cold of the dewy dawn, yet, with 
 the earliest gleam of the sun's light upon his infant 
 shoulder, conveys a fine idea of the tenderness of in- 
 fancy, susceptible of the first rays of the rising 
 day. 
 
 The fresco painting by Guido, in the Casi- 
 no, in the garden of the Palazzo Rospigliosi, is 
 differently treated. Instead of Aurora, we per- 
 ceive Apollo in a blaze of light, drawn in his car 
 by four horses, with beautiful female figures, re- 
 presenting the hours, dancing merrily round, and 
 
 paintings in the villa ludovizl 
 
 27 
 
 preceded by Hesper and Aurora scattering flowers. 
 Guido has chosen a more advanced period of the 
 morning ; the sun has risen in splendour. Guerci- 
 no, on the other hand, has preferred the first ap- 
 pearance of morn, contrasted with the grey hues 
 of departing night, uniting the attributed of cool- 
 ness and freshness, and there is something ex- 
 tremely pure and beautiful in the idea of the hours 
 putting out the light of the stars. It were to be 
 wished, however, that the composition of the pic- 
 ture were more justly conceived, and that the 
 figures had exhibited more of ideal beauty. The 
 exquisite drawing and fine taste in Guido's paint- 
 ing, (with the exception of the figure of Apollo,) 
 the perfect and magnificent whole, the joyous 
 emotions which are excited in the heart, by the 
 assurance of a glorious day, make it difficult to 
 draw the line between the comparative merits of 
 these great painters. Guercino's painting, I would 
 say, seems to be more the work of a poet, and 
 Guido's that of a learned painter. 
 
 Besides the exquisite picture of Aurora, in the 
 Villa Ludovizi, there is a fresco picture of a Fame 
 with snowy wings,— perfectly divine. Comparing 
 the different great masters in fresco painting, in 
 regard to colouring, I know none who gives more 
 force, richness, and clearness, than Guercino ; and 
 perhaps he is, in that respect, quite unrivalled. The 
 frescoes of Raphael, in the Vatican, are undoubted- 
 
28 
 
 DIFFERENT STYLES OF FRESCO. 
 
 ly much superior in dignity of style and exquisite 
 drawing and expression, but perhaps not in colour- 
 ing. Michael Angelo's Creation of Man in the 
 Sistine Chapel is admirable, but weak in colour 
 compared with Guercino, though it must be con- 
 fessed it does not seem to require much additional 
 power. Domenichino's celebrated frescoes, espe- 
 cially those in the church called S. Luigi de 
 Francesi, and St Andrea della Valle, as also his St 
 Sebastian in the church of the Madonna degli An- 
 geli, rank very high. Those in the church St Luigi 
 degli Angeli, in delicacy and finishing, approach 
 to oil, and shew that fresco painting admits of con- 
 siderable finishing ; those in St Andrea della Valle 
 are broad and liglit in colouring. 
 
 All these frescoes are extremely different in 
 their style. Guido occasionally has too much 
 of a dull red on his flesh ; even Raphael and 
 Annibal Carracci are not without that defect. 
 Domenichino's colouring is generally sober and 
 quiet ; but in the pictures in the spondrils of 
 the dome in St Andrea della Valle, it is bright, 
 and not so pleasing to the eye. Taking the 
 merits of the finest fresco paintings, as to what 
 must always be considered the great characteristics 
 of a sublime work of art, there can be no doubt 
 that Michael Angelo is entitled to take the lead j 
 then follow Raphael, Domenichino, Parmagiano, 
 Annibal Caracci, Guido, Guercino, &c. The 
 
 f 
 i 
 
 DIFFERENT STYLES OF FRESCO. 
 
 29 
 
 general effect in all the best frescoes, in point of co- 
 louring, is considerably below the power of oil 
 painting, from the colour sinking into the lime, 
 and the want of a vehicle to sustain its richness. 
 
 * 
 
LETTER XXXV. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Cardinal FescKs Collection, 
 
 DUTCH AND FLEMISH SCHOOL. 
 
 No where more than in Rome does the stranger 
 enjoy the important advantage of a ready access 
 to the collections of works of art. Cardinal Fesch 
 is peculiarly obliging, and even permits strangers 
 to see his private cabinet, while he may be there 
 himself. 
 
 After seeing so many pictures of the Italian 
 school, which consists chiefly of scriptural subjects, 
 it is an agreeable relief to renew our acquaintance 
 with familiar nature, and enjoy those pastoral 
 scenes, which at all times give delight. 
 
 We begin with the furthest off room. 
 
 A picture by Paul Potter of considerable size, 
 very highly finished. The under wood and extri- 
 cacy ofthe scenery is well expressed, though per- 
 haps the labour is too apparent. The cattle are 
 small and not well painted ; the picture, indeed, 
 is merely curious for its minute detail. The sky 
 is certainly not in harmony with the landscape. 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 31 
 
 Backhausen, a clever little picture, and full of 
 nature. Two small scriptural subjects by Teniers, 
 uncommon pictures for the master ; nevertheless, 
 they have great merit, and are almost completely 
 free of that manner by which we can discover his 
 pencilling and conception of the figure. 
 A Vargoen, very poor. 
 Alandscape byGLUNBER, most minutely finished. 
 To go beyond the finishing of Claude's finest pic. 
 tures seems quite superfluous, and a waste of time, 
 and what indeed is worse, it generally deterio- 
 rates the sentiment of the picture. Unnecessary 
 labour can never be indifferent in its consequences, 
 and we may lay it down as a maxim, that what 
 does not tend to ameliorate, will be injurious. 
 The trees are of good forms, and a beautiful dis- 
 tance appears between them. A paleness, in- 
 chnable to chalk, is perceptible throughout the 
 whole ; yet the colouring is inoffensive and pleas- 
 ing. I could have wished, however, that the pic- 
 ture had had a little more spirit and richness ; this 
 would not have been incompatible with the sub- 
 ject, but, on the contrary, improved it much. 
 
 Vandyke. 
 
 Sketch of a Man in Armour on a White Horse, 
 spirited and free ; there is no mistaking it, the 
 masterly hand, and high toned feeling°of Van- 
 dyke, is perceptible in every part. 
 
3^ 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 CARDINAL FESCh's PAINTINGS. 
 
 S3 
 
 Vander Mullen. 
 
 A Battle, in a pleasing landscape, in which 
 a White Horse gives great point and effect ; it is, 
 indeed, a perfect little gem. 
 
 Paul Potter. 
 
 Cattle, with a kind of close woody back-ground, 
 seemingly painted from nature. The landscape 
 is the best part of the picture ; the cattle are bad, 
 and not like the pencilling and accuracy of the 
 master ; I should suppose them to be by a different 
 hand. 
 
 Snyders. 
 
 A Boar Hunt, quite perfect; conveying a 
 terrible idea of this amusement, if such it may be 
 called, when life is in constant danger. The 
 action and spirit of the dogs cannot be surpassed, 
 yet they evidently have the worst of it ; their teetli 
 seem to make but small impression on the tough 
 hide of the ferocious animal. This admirable paint- 
 er, who may be said to stand alone in painting 
 animals in action, with so much truth, must have 
 been able to seize every evanescent gesture, with 
 a facility quite surprising, and make them all sub- 
 servient to the inventions of a poetical mind. 
 
 WiENIX. 
 
 A picture of an Old Man and a Young 
 
 J 
 
 Wo .VAN WITH Goats, admirably painted, but 
 very indelicate. Indeed, I was surprised to see 
 such a picture in the Sanctum Sanctorum of the 
 cardinal, but it must be presumed, it is the ex- 
 quisite art which it displays, and not the sentiment 
 of the subject, that gives the picture a place among 
 crucifixes. Possibly, when his excellency wishet 
 to avoid looking at any objectionable part in it, 
 he may put up his hand before his eyes, like the 
 young woman in the picture, but, no doubt, with 
 his fingers a little closer together. 
 
 In an adjoining apartment, which is the cardi- 
 nal's bed-room, there is a fine bust of Napolkon, 
 crowned with a wreath of gold. There are also 
 several good pictures ; among the best is, a Mary 
 Magdalene by Vandyke, sweetly coloured, but 
 a little deficient in beauty. The countenance, 
 however, expresses great grief and true repent- 
 ance. 
 
 Teniers. 
 
 A Cavern Scene with Monks : one of them, 
 near the front of the picture, is seen washing 
 cabbages, and very fine ones they are. Teniers 
 is fond of cavern scenes, and I have more than 
 once thought, that he has introduced figures in 
 them which have no connection with such situa- 
 tions. The picture is painted with great spirit, 
 
 VOL. II. c 
 
S4* 
 
 CARDINAL FKSCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 I 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 35 
 
 and the vegetables evidently seem to have been 
 done from nature. 
 
 Rubens. 
 A small Scriptural subject, remarkably rich 
 in colour, and carefully executed. 
 
 Karil du Jardin. 
 Christ upon the Cross, well painted, well 
 drawn, and with good effect. The finishing has no 
 fault ; the Virgin, however, in her stiff stays, look- 
 ed somewhat out of character. 
 
 Vandyke, 
 A Resurrection. The figures are dark on the 
 fore-ground, which adds to the splendid effect on 
 our Saviour, who is rising surrounded by a glory. 
 
 Gerard delle Notti. 
 
 Robbers and Soldiers playing Cards by 
 Candle-light ; a noble picture, and said to be 
 his masterpiece. It is certainly full of character, 
 and well composed. The shaded figure, with his 
 back towards the spectator, is admirably contrasted 
 with the brightest light, and contributes greatly to 
 produce the luminous effect for which this picture 
 is so celebrated. 
 
 Peter Neifs. 
 
 Interior of a Cathedral ; like most of his 
 other works, hard and disagreeable. 
 
 i 
 
 Rembrandt. 
 
 A picture of our Saviour, rather larger than 
 life. The head and shoulders are very obscure, 
 and the expression of the countenance somewhat 
 vulgar ; though freely painted, that is not a suffi- 
 cient compensation for the total want of good draw- 
 ing. This picture is said to be by Rembrandt. 
 
 In the third room there is an exquisite little pic- 
 ture by Albert Cuyp,* consisting of a few Boats 
 AND PART of a Dutch Town. The aerial tone is of 
 a warm yellowish hue, beautifully sustained through- 
 out the picture. The scientific mixture of warm 
 and cool pearly greys is perfectly captivating. To 
 the left, a dark boat, with figures opposed to the 
 strongest light, gives great point and effect to the 
 landscape, and delicacy to the sky. You, my good 
 friend, t would have dwelt upon this fascinating 
 production of art, with the glistening eye of de- 
 
 * The farther off sails of the boats were of a yellow cast, 
 upon a light silvery sky, though warm. Opposed to the yel- 
 lowish sails, were others of a dark greenish brown. The 
 town illuminated, very rich in colour, something of the hue 
 of burnt Terra de Sienna ; the shadows of the buildinos w-re 
 grey. The small daik boat had a figure in red, and others 
 in brown. The water reflected the various objects, and was 
 lower in tone of brightness than the sky. 
 
 t These letters were addressed to the Kev. John Thomson 
 of Duddingston* 
 
36 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 light ; indeed, on studying the sky, I perceived 
 much of your feeling and fine discriminating taste 
 for those delightful and pure tones, which en- 
 tirely escape the common observer of nature. 
 
 Van Huysum. 
 
 Two upright Flower Pieces, finished to the 
 last degree of delicacy, with a sui^rising expres- 
 sion of beauty and truth. 
 
 SCALKIN. 
 
 A Candle-light Piece, very perfect. 
 
 Teniers. 
 
 Inside of a Cow-House, the Cattle ill drawn, 
 but well coloured. The figures, which consist of 
 a woman pouring out milk, and an old man be- 
 hind her, are in his light manner, and freely 
 painted. 
 
 Isaac Ostade. 
 
 A picture of transcendent merit. The compo- 
 sition consists of aLANDsCAPE, with pollard-looking 
 trees, Dutch houses and horses, sheep, and figures. 
 It is accurate, rich, and full of character. The 
 lights are all opaque upon transparent ground, 
 of a lucid amber tone, strengthened in advancing 
 towards the bottom of the picture. This colour 
 of ground, or rather shadow of the various objects, 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 87 
 
 is a favourite one with the Dutch and Flemish 
 schools, and generally it is left transparent, or 
 slightly scumbled with opaque colour. It never 
 fails to produce a pleasing unity, and, indeed, has 
 even a happy power of combining the most opposite 
 and poweriul colours in agreeable harmony. Whe- 
 ther this method has been adopted by accident, the 
 transparent colour suggesting ideas of beauty, as 
 the painter proceeded in his subject, or whethcrit has 
 been adopted through long experience, it is difficult 
 to conjecture. It is certainly mannerism, so far at 
 least as it is not strictly referable to the authority 
 of nature ; but who would find fault with the me- 
 thod, when the result fills the mind so completely, 
 and offers a finer and more agreeable harmony, 
 than we generally find in nature ? It may, how- 
 ever, be carried too far, as we have, indeed, occa- 
 sionally observed in the works of Hobbima, Berg- 
 ham, Ruysdaal, Vangoen, &c. 
 
 RUYSDAAL. 
 
 A Landscape, with green stumpy trees, op- 
 posed to a cool cloudy sky ; a very dark tree ap- 
 pears on the fore-ground, and produces a fine 
 effect ; perhaps the picture is a little heavy and 
 cold, but it must be mentioned, that it was bantl- 
 ing near the beautiful rich picture by Ostade. 
 
 In the same room are also several pictures by 
 Wienix, a small Teniers, and a painting of 
 
38 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH^S PAINTINGS. 
 
 a Female by Vandyke. In the cardinars study 
 there are some very choice specimens of Dutch 
 and Flemish art. 
 
 WOUVERMANS. 
 
 An upright picture of considerable size, tnily 
 exquisite in design and colouring. A Lady, in 
 an orange dress, is sitting on a white horse, with 
 many other figures, and black and brown horses 
 near her, forming an interesting group. A mass of 
 rich yellow cloud, which approaches near the cen- 
 tre, forms the principal light in the sky, which is 
 blended with innumerable delightful tones of cool 
 greys. The blue in the sky is pure, especially un- 
 der the great mass of cloud ; the distance is of a 
 bluisli grey, and retires in the finest manner, carry- 
 ing along with it the sweetest hannonizing colours 
 of landscape scenery ; the whole effect is so skil- 
 fully treated, that nothing individual appears, 
 though the objects are very numerous ; the trees 
 are touched with a free pencil, both in the great 
 masses and in the external leafing. The fore- 
 ground, composed of stumps and plants, and varied 
 broken ground, is managed in the most judicious 
 manner, and is connected artfully with the subject 
 and incidents in the picture. There is likewise 
 another picture by this inimitable master, in which, 
 as usual, a white horse forms the principal point 
 of the picture, and beside him stands a picturesque 
 
 cardinal fesch s paintings. 
 
 39 
 
 figure adjusting the stirrup. The purple brown 
 saddle-cloth harmonizes with the light and grey 
 shadows of the horse, and the opposing figures 
 which are out of the mass of light. The sky, too, 
 takes its part in the fine eflfect, and indicates in- 
 numerable ideas of purity and perfect art. A 
 couple of ducks, nibbling on the fore-ground, are 
 not without their use ; the touches of colour on 
 their wings assist in sustaining the brilliancy and 
 spirit of the whole. 
 
 Adrian Vanderveldt. 
 
 A picture six feet in length, (an uncommon size 
 for the master.) It appears to be a Caravan with 
 loaded camels, cattle, and numerous figures. The 
 back-ground has nothing like an eastern appear- 
 ance, nor have the cows, which are Dutch-look- 
 ing animals, in as fine condition as any I ever saw. 
 In short, this master, so excellent in familiar scenes 
 in pastoral life, has found himself a Httle out of 
 his element, in this, I suppose, Egyptian subject ; 
 there are several other pictures by Vanderveldt, 
 but none equal to what I have seen in England. 
 
 Tenieus. 
 
 Christ Crowned with Thorns. A gross 
 familiar conception of a subject greatly too digni- 
 fied for a Dutch pencil. 
 
40 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH S PAINTINGS. 
 
 Berghen. 
 
 A Court-Yard, with Horses, an agreeable 
 specimen of the master. 
 
 Pynacker. 
 Two Landscapes. Indifferent pictures. 
 
 Metzu. 
 
 A Sleeping Gamekeeper, perfect in colour- 
 ing and finish. 
 
 ROCKMAN. 
 
 A good Landscape, in a style between Ru- 
 bens and Rembrandt ; travelling gleams of light 
 are well represented behind the stems of some aged 
 trees, and lead the eye into mysterious glades. 
 
 Hobbima. 
 
 A local scene, freely and firmly painted, with an 
 inaccurate discernment of the detail of nature. 
 
 Everdingin. 
 
 This picture represents a Windy Day. The 
 trees are waving in the wind, and the water is 
 greatly agitated. The sky is cool and clear, and 
 well contrasted with autumnal colouring ; the 
 shadows are thin, merely a slight glazing, the 
 lights are opaque, but not of any considerable body, 
 yet there is no appearance of change in the picture. 
 
 cardinal fesch's paintings. 
 
 41 
 
 It IS seemingly as fresh and clear as the day it 
 was painted. 
 
 Karel de Moor. 
 
 A sweet little picture ; the only one I ever 
 saw of the master. It represents a Lady playing 
 ON A Guitar. The landscape back-ground is ex- 
 quisitely finished, mellow, and rich, to the last de- 
 gree ; yet pleasingly subdued. Near this small 
 painting is a delightful picture by Ostade, and 
 some portraits by Rembrandt and others. 
 
 Rubens. 
 
 A sketch of Pluto and Proserpine, very 
 masterly, a fine flow of line, but perhaps his sys- 
 tem is too perceptible. It is, however, a fine 
 lesson for a painter. 
 
 Gerhard Douw\ 
 A good picture. 
 
 WoUWERMANS. 
 
 A Battle- Piece, from four to five feet in length, 
 and high in proportion, certainly a curious picture,' 
 highly finished, admirably painted, and the horses 
 in every attitude are full of spirit ; yet the picture 
 is not pleasing. The horses are too much detach- 
 ed, the want of a whole affords no rest to the eye, 
 and though many of the groupes are well contrived 
 
 VOL. II. f 
 
42 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 43 
 
 as groupes, it must be confessed, they add little to 
 the general effect. In short, the picture is a 
 failure. 
 
 Vander-heyden. 
 
 If any painter had a right to make a display of 
 his finishing it was Vander-heyden ; it is truly ex- 
 quisite, and all referable to truth, yet does that ex- 
 cellent master wisely keep it subservient to the 
 whole, which is always broad and masterly. His 
 pictures are like those modest characters which do 
 not shew their various excellencies at first, but im- 
 prove upon acquaintance, and display innumerable 
 traits of talent. The buildings in this picture are 
 quite a deception, and a little red draw-bridge is 
 well introduced for the purpose of giving relief to 
 
 a mass of green. 
 
 Rembrandt. 
 
 A sketch in brown and yellowish white consider- 
 ably subdued. The subject, I believe, is St John 
 Preaching. The expression and character of 
 the various persons in this crowded scene are di- 
 versified and appropriate. 
 
 Vandyke. 
 
 A picture of the Graces, not very pleasing. 
 The Grace to the right is rather bulky, and thea- 
 trical in her attitude, and the Grace to the left 
 
 h 
 
 r 
 
 seems as if she had usurped her situation ; she cer- 
 tainly has but little of the beau ideal in her person; 
 nevertheless, she is sufficiently beautiful for her 
 admirers, Mercury and his companion, (in shepherd's 
 dress,) who really are, to speak the truth, a pair of 
 very mean-looking fellows. 
 
 CUYP. 
 
 A group of Two Cows, painted in a firm and 
 lucid manner. The cow which is lying down is 
 black and white, the one standing behind is white 
 and red. The harmony is good, and greatly assisted 
 by the warmth of the sky. Another picture, by 
 Cuyp, of an oblong form, represents Dutch Fisher- 
 men drawing a net, and two horses, apparently in- 
 troduced to fill up his composition. It is a good 
 picture, but not equal to the Boat scene by the same 
 master. 
 
 Rubens. 
 
 The Adoration of the Magi, a picture of a 
 very high class, no mannerism. The drawing is 
 good, and the figures to the right are perhaps 
 equal to any thing painted by his magic hand; the 
 light and splendour have seldom been equalled by 
 any painter. 
 
 Snyders. 
 A Boar Hunt, a painting of great excellence. 
 
44 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH S PAINTINGS. 
 
 The boar is dark in the middle of the picture, and 
 produces a good eflFect, not unlike the disposition 
 of light and shade in many of the pictures by 
 Rubens, with light and splendour, playing, as it 
 were, round a central shade. In the same room 
 with this picture are others by the same master, 
 especially aFox Hunt, and some pictures of Water- 
 falls by Iluysdaal, and Cattle pieces by Bergham. 
 
 I have only noticed the leading pictures in the 
 Dutch and Flemish schools; there are many others 
 which will arrest the discerning eye, and afi'ord a 
 mental feast. 
 
 I 
 
 LETTER XXXVI. 
 
 ITALIAN AND OTHER SCHOOLS. 
 ROME. 
 
 Cardinal Fesch's Collection of Italian, Venetian^ and French 
 Masters. — Madame Mere's (Napoleons Mother) Pictures, 
 and Lucien Buonaparte's, Prince of Canino. 
 
 Sebastian del Piomba. 
 
 J hree pictures in fresco, in a very low tone of 
 colouring, and varnished. They were formerly in 
 the church called La Pache ; and altogether (for 
 they seem to have belonged to one picture) re- 
 present the Salutation of Elizabeth. The 
 style is solemn and grand, but I do not see why 
 the subject should have such a dark and melan- 
 choly cast. The single figure in one of the fres- 
 coes is admirably drawn ; the head, in the cor- 
 responding fresco on the right, leads me to sup- 
 pose that the picture, of which the head is a part, 
 has never been finished. A small picture in oil, 
 comprehending the whole subject entire, serves as 
 a key to these interesting and certainly noble efforts 
 of the pencil. 
 
 \ 
 
^' 
 
 46 
 
 CARDINAL FESCh's PAINTINGS. 
 
 Annibal Caracci, 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 CORREGGIO. 
 
 47 
 
 Our Saviour and the Virgin Mary ; a pic- 
 ture of a high class. A St John, by Schedoni, in 
 a grand style, and not too dark ; and a Holy 
 Family, by Sasso Ferrato, are all good pictures. 
 
 Francisco Mola. 
 
 Jephthah's Da-ughter meeting her Father, 
 after his rash Vow. A small picture. The co- 
 louring of this picture is superior to the expres- 
 sion, which does not touch the soul. 
 
 There are two modes of glazing in finishing a pic- 
 ture, the one by using a general harmonizing colour, 
 such as asphaltum, and the other with the local co- 
 lours of the various objects ; the former is generally 
 the most successful in giving a pleasing effect, but 
 the latter, when judiciously managed, produces a 
 brilliancy and clearness infinitely beyond the for* 
 mer. And I could desire no better instance than 
 this little picture of Francisco Mola's, as a proof 
 of the superiority. 
 
 The companion to this picture is Moses strik- 
 ing THE Rock, but not so agreeable in any re- 
 spect, though a beautiful painting. 
 
 Spagnoletto. 
 
 A Philosopher, well painted, but without any 
 mental expression, and too like a mendicant. 
 
 A Madonna and Child, a sweet picture, with- 
 out heaviness ; the infant is innocence itself. 
 
 Salvator Rosa. 
 
 ToBiT AND the Angel, freely painted, and 
 good effect of colour. 
 
 Domenichino. 
 
 Adam and Eve. Not an agreeable picture ; 
 the landscape is too dark, and not composed in 
 his usual judicious and pleasing manner, 
 
 Julio Romano. 
 
 Neptune and Venus. A fresco, varnished 
 and glazed, finely drawn, and well coloured. It 
 might be mistaken for a painting in oil. 
 
 Domenichino. 
 
 Love Triumphant seated on an Eagle. A 
 picture not equal to that great master. 
 
 Raphael. 
 Several portraits, said to be by this hand. 
 
 Leonardo da Vinci. 
 
 JocoNDA. The picture of a female, said to 
 have been his mistress. We were informed it was 
 painted for Francis L, but refused by him, as not 
 
48 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS, 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 49 
 
 being quite to his taste. It is the portrait of a 
 smirking loose-looking woman, naked down to the 
 elbows. How Leonardo da Vinci, with his noble 
 grave countenance, and fine white beard, could have 
 painted such a subject, I must confess surprises me. 
 Were it possible the smirking lady could speak, 
 she certainly would, from her appearance, say some- 
 thintT very disgusting to a modest ear. 
 
 Andrea del Sauto. 
 A Holy Family. A picture of great reputa- 
 tion. It is very much glazed, and the figures are 
 seen through a very considerable medium of trans- 
 parent colour, as it were '* through a glass darkly." 
 When the style of painting is calculated for such 
 an effect, it rarely fails to please, as it destroys any 
 thing like pretension to gaudy colouring. 
 
 Georgioke. 
 
 A Portrait of Himself, (a young-looking 
 man,) in a singular dress, something like a loose 
 flannel jacket, and red pantaloons. The picture of 
 his wife, or mistress, hangs in the opposite corner ; 
 both portraits have a good effect, but they are 
 hung so high, that I could not see the details of 
 finishing. 
 
 Carlo Dolci. 
 
 A small picture of St Sebastian. The face is 
 
 b2iutiful, and the colouring of the whole clear and 
 captivating, but the hand and arm is badly drawn. 
 
 Raphael. 
 
 Christ upon the Cross, said to be painted 
 when Raphael was only 1 8 years of age ; the draw- 
 ing is very hard and unpleasing, and the faces are 
 much alike, with little expression of nature, but 
 there are undoubtedly signs of talent and future 
 promise. 
 
 Annibal Caracci. 
 
 A small picture of the Death of Christ, 
 sweetly painted. The Virgin Mary reclines, or 
 rather lies, by the side of Jesus, with her arm round 
 his neck. Two Angels appear to be weeping, 
 which, perhaps, is not altogether in character ; at 
 least, one would suppose that our Saviour, who 
 had left this wicked world, would not be dead to 
 celestial spirits. 
 
 Leonardo da Vinci. 
 
 A long picture of the Last Supper, painted 
 from the noble fresco by that master. It is in- 
 differently done, and certainly not original. The 
 feet are ill drawn and badly painted, and the whole 
 picture is too red. 
 
 vol. II. D 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
50 
 
 »o 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH'S PAINTINGS. 
 
 Titian. 
 
 The Doctors of thf: Church. I have been 
 informed that this picture is suspected not to be an 
 original ; be that as it may, it ranks among the 
 finest paintings in Cardinal Fesch's collection. The 
 Doctors have much the appearance of being por- 
 traits ; St Gregory represents a Pope, and St Giro- 
 lomo a Cardinal; the latter, a grave, sensible-looking 
 person, is explaining a point in the Catholic ritual, 
 regarding the Virgin Mary, who is seated above. 
 The Pope does not seem to comprehend the Car- 
 dinal's reasoning, and really, from the stupidity of 
 his countenance, he docs noc seem likely to be soon 
 convinced. The picture is unquestionably fine in 
 the principal attributes of a splendid work of art,— 
 crrandeur of style, expression, good colouring, and 
 effect. 
 
 Perino del Vaga. 
 
 Immediately opposite to this painting is a pic- 
 ture by Perino del Vaga, representing St Sebastian 
 and other figures ; murky darkness prevails too 
 much, but there is a certain dignity which is very 
 appropriate and pleasing. 
 
 Gaspar Poussin. 
 A noble upright landscape, descriptive of A 
 Storm ; the air of the composition is very classical 
 and grand ; lightning flashes through a troubled 
 
 cardinal fesch's paintings. 
 
 51 
 
 sky, gilding the tops of distant mountains, and 
 discloses various temples and buildings on the dis- 
 tant plain ; a waterfall hurries itself into obscu- 
 rity, and the trees appear as if they groaned in 
 the blast ; a huge branch is torn down and laid 
 prostrate on the earth, and figures and cattle 
 are struck by the lightning. The picture has 
 great harmony, which is produced by simple 
 means ; there is no great variety of colour, and 
 greens are totally excluded; yellow, brown, and 
 grey, seem to be the only variety. The figures are 
 not by Gaspar or Niccolo Poussin ; they have no-, 
 thing of their manner, nor are they sufficiently cha- 
 racteristic of such a noble subject. Common cows 
 and horses, with rustic figures, would have been 
 more appropriately represented in familiar local 
 scenery. ]t has been said that this picture is 
 not by Gaspar, from some trifling weakness to 
 the right of the waterfall. I confess it did not 
 strike me ; the whole completely filled the mind, 
 and pronounced the painter, whoever he may have 
 been, to be possessed of transcendent skill. Gmelen 
 of Rome has engraved a composition by Gaspar 
 Poussin of nearly the same subject, with the excep- 
 tion of the figures, which he calls II Temporale 
 del Poussino. There are several pictures by Titian, 
 Paris Bourdon, &c. and we remarked a very strik- 
 ing picture of St Carlo Boromeo. 
 
52 
 
 CARDINAL FESCh's PAINTINGS. 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 .53 
 
 GUIDO. 
 
 An Ascension of the Virgin ; quite a master- 
 piece, and a happy medium of richness, in his light 
 and silvery style ; nothing can exceed the beauty 
 
 of the Virgin. 
 
 GuiDO. 
 
 A St Sebastian, remarkable for effect and ana- 
 tomical accuracy. The picture has the appearance 
 as if it had been painted by candle-light. 
 
 Albano. 
 Two pictures by this master, well painted and 
 carefully finished; but Albano occasionally wants 
 nerve, and often reminds me of truth spoken in a 
 whisper. His Time carrying away Cupid from an 
 aged Venus, is amusing and good. 
 
 MURILLO. 
 
 A small picture of a Holy Family, exquisite in 
 colouring, but deficient in spirit. Murillo was 
 afraid of those occasional cutting lines which give 
 character and energy. Without a little sharpness, 
 softness sinks into insipidity ; Raphael Mengs also 
 is very defective in this respect. 
 
 Danial de Volterra. 
 
 A Salutation, a picture of great merit. 
 
 French School.— Niccolo Poussin. 
 The Dancing Hours, (engraved by Morghen,) 
 
 f- 
 
 a picture full of spirit, and beautifully coloured. 
 Apollo appears seated in his car, preceded by 
 Aurora scattering flowers. Niccolo's classical taste 
 is very conspicuous in this small but perfect work. 
 The Deluge, by the same hand, is not so successful ; 
 the figures are all too mean and familiar to excite 
 that interest which such a subject demands; the 
 effect, however, is in his usual classical taste. 
 
 Claude. 
 
 Four Landscapes, said to be by this inimitable 
 master ; none of them have the veritable stamp of 
 originality; the finely depicted nature in Claude's 
 paintings is not to be mistaken. 
 
 Gaspar Poussin. 
 
 Tliere are no less than fifteen pictures by this 
 master, but none very good ; indeed, I suspect se- 
 veral of them not to be original. They all, how- 
 ever, though black and heavy, abound in good 
 subordinate parts. 
 
 Watteau. 
 
 Two large paintings by this master, beautiful, 
 but not so splendid as many of his smaller pictures ; 
 the lii^ht and colour on one of them is carried from 
 figure to figure like a wreath of flowers ; the con- 
 trivance or conceit is pretty, and seems to be ex- 
 pressive of the bloom of youth and its short-lived 
 hours of joy. Watteau had a neat and elegant 
 
54 
 
 CARDINAL FESCH's PAINTINGS. 
 
 MADAME MERE S PAINTINGS. 
 
 55 
 
 touch, and coloured to admiration, and when these 
 qualities were united to grace, his pictures are truly 
 fascinating. He thought for himself, and though 
 a great admirer of Rubens, his combinations of 
 colour are original and always pleasing. 
 
 BORGOGNONE. 
 
 The pictures by Borgognone seem to indicate a 
 warlike mind. There are several of his battles in 
 this collection, and every thing in them appears to 
 be fighting, horses, men, and skies. * 
 
 David (a Modern Master.) 
 A picture of St Jerome, an indifferent perfor- 
 mance, without any of the attributes of a good pic- 
 ture ; ill conceived and coloured, tame, without 
 clearness or surface. 
 
 Gruize. 
 There are several heads painted by this mas- 
 ter ; they have all a French cast, and abound 
 in trifling conceits, rosy lips, languid eyes, &c. 
 united to a kind of mawkish affectation of sensibi- 
 lity or delicacy which is quite unsufFerable j they 
 are, however, extremely well painted. 
 
 • Borgognone's pictures strongly remind me of the spirited 
 sketches of battles, by Sir James Stuart, Bart, of AilanLank, 
 who, had he devoted himself to pointing, might have rivalled 
 the greatest masters in that department. 
 
 Sablet. 
 
 Several pictures of familiar subjects, by this mas- 
 ter. The colouring is in general excellent, and 
 the pencilling free. Nature is not overlooked, and 
 occasionally the expression is unaffected and agree- 
 able. 
 
 The works of the modern French painters, as 
 works of imagination, are deficient in energy of 
 design and composition ; even their drawing is 
 defective. They rarely venture on any bold fore- 
 shortening ; and from not attending to the inge« 
 nious mechanism of the ancient masters, their co- 
 louring may be said to be very unscientific ; it ne- 
 ver has tliat characteristic splendour which dis- 
 tinguishes the immortal works of the old Italian 
 school. Chiaro-oscuro, too, is so little understood, 
 tliat it may be said they are entirely ignorant 
 of its principles. It does, indeed, appear very 
 singular and unaccountable, that, with such a 
 collection as that of the Louvre, which was at all 
 times excellent, the French masters should have 
 made so little progress ; especially, too, as it does 
 not seem that there has been any w^ant of encour- 
 agement to the fine arts in France. 
 
 Madame Mere's (Napoleon's Mother) 
 
 Pictures, 
 
 We w^ere informed that Madam Mere's collec- 
 tion of pictures, though small, is very select. We, 
 
56 
 
 PRINCE OF CANTNO'S PAINTINGS. 
 
 however, were greatly disappointed. She has no 
 pictures of any consequence. A few views of 
 Venice by Canelleti, a pair of pictures by Rosa of 
 Tivoli, a painting said to be by Julio Romano, 
 a Le Seur, and some other inferior productions, is 
 all that the empress-mother can boast of. The 
 busts in marble are chiefly of her own family. 
 
 The Prince of Canino's (Lucien Buona- 
 parte's) Paintings. 
 
 The Prince of Canino, in whose palace we 
 now reside, has but few pictures, perhaps not ex- 
 ceeding tliirty ; but they are very select, and such 
 a choice little collection we enjoy more than an 
 extensive gallery, which generally fatigues the mind 
 before it can be half examined. It is, however, 
 difficidt to obtain permission to see them, as the 
 family inhabit the rooms in which they are hung, 
 the rest of the palace being let to strangers. 
 
 In the first room there is a picture of Mary 
 Magdalen kbliore our Saviour, by Annibal Ca- 
 racci, quite a masterpiece. The simple dignity of 
 Christ is finely opposed to the admirably depicted ex- 
 pression of sorrow and repentance in the counte- 
 nance and figure of Mary. There is also a splendid 
 painting of Christ Healing the Blind, by 
 Ludovico Caracci ; and a painting of Christ Rais- 
 ing THE Widow's Son, by Agostino Caracci. This 
 last painting is remarkable for expression ; return- 
 
 PRINCE OF CANINO's PAINTINGS. 
 
 57 
 
 ing life, dismissing the shades of death, cannot be 
 better expressed, and must surprise every beholder. 
 Perhaps the effect of the picture might have been 
 improved, had the right knee of our Saviour been 
 lighter, and likewise the hands of the widow ; the 
 toute-ensemble of light and shade would have been 
 more agreeable to the eye. The painting of 
 Christ before Pilate, by Gerrard della Notti, 
 is certainly the finest picture I have seen by that 
 master ; we were very much struck with the re- 
 signation, and dignified expression of Christ ; 
 it is a candle-light piece of great dimensions, and 
 yet all is in the most agreeable harmony, without 
 any affectation in the management of the light and 
 shadow. Domenichino's picture of St John, look- 
 ing up to the Virgin Mary in Heaven, with 
 Two Priests in the attitude of adoration, is fine- 
 ly painted, but not very interesting. 
 
 In the second room is a Christ on the Cross, 
 said to be by Michael Angelo, but the pencilling 
 and colouring shew that they are by a different 
 hand ; the delicate finishing is the work of a 
 master who must have had great practice in paint' 
 ing in oil. It may, however, have been done 
 from a drawing by Michael Angelo. There is 
 too much agony and pain expressed in the coun- 
 tenance and figure of our Saviour, and I could have 
 wished the body had been less twisted. 
 
58 
 
 PRINCE OF CANINO'S PAINTINGS. 
 
 PRINCE OF CANINO S PAINTINGS. 
 
 59 
 
 A Portrait of the Duke d'Urbino, by Ra- 
 phael, is exquisitely painted, and true to nature. 
 Christ at the Well, by Julio Romano, is a 
 
 fine picture. 
 
 In a small picture of the Birth of Christ, by 
 Simon da Pisaro, the illumination of the subject is 
 from the infant, as in the celebrated Notte (night 
 
 piece) of Correggio. 
 
 Diana and Acteon is a small exquisitely paint- 
 ed picture, said to be by Titian, of the same com- 
 position as that in the Marquis of Stafford's. The 
 contrivance, and fine combination of light and 
 shade, the chiaro-oscuro, and purity of colouring, 
 are entitled to high admiration. 
 
 A Madonna and Child, by Raphael, is one 
 of the finest pictures in the collection. The ideal 
 beauty of the mother, and the innocence and sweet 
 expression of the child, are extremely captivating. 
 The Murder of the Innocents, by N. 
 Poussin, is a picture, which, in colouring, com- 
 position, and expre;»sion, may be said to be with- 
 out a fault. But the nearer such a subject ap- 
 proaches to nature, the more revolting it must 
 appear to be ; one shudders at the horrible sight 
 of a soldier, with his foot on the neck of a 
 child which he has stabbed with his sword, in the 
 presence of its mother. The frantic agony of 
 her expression is wonderfully expressed. The 
 whole, indeed, leaves such an impression on the 
 
 I 
 
 mind, that we have less pleasure in examining 
 other works of art immediately after it. In the 
 Vatican, there is another of these disgusting sub- 
 jects, painted by N. Poussin, representing a wretch 
 pulling out the entrails of a saint ; it is, indeed, 
 sui-prising that a painter of such classical taste 
 could have brought down his elegant mind to 
 such an exhibition of human depravity. 
 
 There is a picture by Teniers of an Old Woman, 
 with a knife in her hand, stalking among all kinds 
 of monsters, and Cerberus growling in shade. She 
 has nothing infernal in her countenance, more 
 than the look of a scolding termagant, which, per- 
 haps, is quite sufiicient even for the tonnent of 
 the damned. It is a good picture, and there is 
 no mistaking it to be by the hand of the master 
 to whom it is ascribed. 
 
 A Colossal Venus, by Alexander Allori, is 
 well painted, but by no means agreeable, at least 
 not more so than the real exhibition of such a 
 giantess would be; we lose sight of that delicate 
 and feminine softness which captivates all hearts. 
 
 Modesty and Vanity, by Leonardo da Vinci, 
 IS said to be the original of the same subject in the 
 Sciarra Palace ; the one in the Sciarra is supposed 
 by many to be a copy by Luini. Luini made 
 many copies of Leonardo da Vinci's works ; in- 
 deed, he was a professed imitator of his style, 
 and several of his pictures have been taken for 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
■^ 
 
 60 
 
 PRINCE OF CANINO S PAINTINGS. 
 
 PRINCE OF CANINO'S PAINTINGS. 
 
 61 
 
 Da Vinci's ; but, with respect to the picture 
 in the Sclarra Palace, and that belonging to 
 the Prince Canino, I must confess I can give no 
 additional information. They are extremely simi- 
 lar, and both admirably painted ; the latter seems 
 to be somewhat lighter, but I could perceive no 
 other difference ; no touch is perceptible in either. 
 It seemed to me that there is a little confusion 
 of hands, and that they are too light for the sub- 
 dued colour of the heads, and so arranged, as if 
 to produce too much the appearance of a display 
 of beautiful fingers. Modesty is nature itself, and 
 Vanity is almost faultless ; she has the same smirk 
 which we find in all Da Vinci's female heads, but 
 in her it is not unappropriate. 
 
 Then follow a Portrait, by Vandyke, in his best 
 manner : 
 
 A Portrait of a Lady, by Rubens, exquisitely 
 painted, and not unlike a picture by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds : 
 
 A Portrait of a Lady and her Lap-dog, 
 by Moro, perfect nature : 
 
 A fine Portrait by Holbein : 
 
 A Portrait by Ludovico Caracci, freely paint- 
 ed : 
 
 An admirable Portrait by Cristofano Allori : 
 
 A St Cecilia by Guido, a good picture, but 
 not in his best manner : 
 
 Several Heads by Van Mol, seemingly repre- 
 
 senting various ages, but called Diogenes lookino- 
 for an Honest Man ; a very superior work of art ; 
 the pencilling is as free as possible, very expressive 
 of nature, both in colour and drawing. A youth- 
 ful face, opposed to an aged head, is quite divine. 
 
 The Prince Canino is likewise in possession of 
 several antiques ; a bronze Apollo, found at Tus- 
 culum, very fine; a Font or Cistern from the 
 same place, perfect in the execution, besides many 
 other relics of considerable beauty. 
 
 I 
 
 K 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
FRESCOES IN PALAZZO COSTAGUTI. 
 
 63 
 
 LETTER XXXVII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Fresco Paintings in the Palazzo Coslapiti, — The PoJiiatnivski 
 Collection. — Description of the Ancient Pain/i^ig called the 
 Aldobrandini Marriage — Ancient Paintings in the Baths 
 of Titus, — Prices given by the Ancients for Pictures. — 
 Statues of Castor and Pollux. — Prices given for Colossal 
 Statues. — Michael Angela's Statue of Moses in the Church 
 of St Peter in Vincoli. 
 
 Palazzo Costaguti. 
 
 '^Fhkke is no collection of pictures in the Costaguti 
 Palace, but the fresco paintings in the ceilings 
 by Domenichino, Guercino, Albano, and Lan- 
 franc, are worthy of study. That by Guercino, in 
 particular, is remarkably fine, and, in point of rich- 
 ness and powerful colouring, is not inferior to liis 
 Aurora in the Casino in the Villa Ludovisi. The 
 subject is, Rinaldo in a Car, drawn by six Dra- 
 gons ; he is asleep, and Armida is gazing upon him. 
 The figure of Armida is incomparably fine. I cannot 
 say so much for the work of a greater master, Do- 
 menichino. It is, indeed, surprising to see how un- 
 equal in merit the pictures of the same painter are 
 compared with each other, and even with inferior 
 
 ^ 
 
 artists ; there cannot, indeed, be a more strikino- 
 instance of it, than the comparison of Domeni- 
 chino's fresco of Apollo in the Chariot of 
 THE Sun, with the fresco of Rinaldo and Armida. 
 The horses seem to have greatly puzzled Domeni- 
 chino ; the picture principally represents horses' 
 legs, at least they are the only part of it that ar- 
 rests the eye. But some little Cupids or Boys, in 
 the same apartment, make amends for our disap- 
 pointment with the principal subject ; some of 
 them are very beautiful, and well coloured ; one 
 is playing with a dog, others with a crook, the 
 club of Hercules, a lion's skin, or a bow and ar- 
 row, &c. A little cherub, however, which cauo-ht 
 my eye, seemed a little out of character, skimming 
 through the air with a fiddle in his hand. Lan° 
 franc's painting represents Justice and Peace, 
 and in colouring, is not unlike the splendour of 
 Guercino's picture. Albano's Hercules and 
 Dejanira is but indifferent. 
 
 In one of the apartments, the whole walls are 
 painted in the style of a panorama by Gaspar Pous- 
 sm. The design, which consists of a mixture of 
 sea ports, is wretched in the extreme, and seem- 
 mgly coloured with an unmeaning and uneducated 
 eye ; such an exhibition, from the hand of a master 
 who afterwards did so much honour to the pencil, 
 must be encouraging to a beginner in landscape- 
 painting. 
 
64 PAINTINGS IN PONIATOWSKI PALACE. 
 
 ALDOBRANDINI MARRIAGE. 
 
 65 
 
 In the Poniatovvski Palace are many paintings 
 of various schools, but very few above second-rate. 
 I may mention them as follows : A good Head by 
 Giorgione; A Venus by Agostino Caracci, the 
 upper part of her figure m shade ; A Female 
 Head by Guercino, most beautiful, but too brown 
 in the shadows ; A Head by Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 A Sea Port by Bergham, a very uncommon pic- 
 ture of the master, and characterized by clever 
 pencilling and smartness of touch ; A Holy Fa- 
 mily by Schedoni, black and heavy ; Diana and 
 Endymion by Rubens; Diana, like one of his 
 Dutch acquaintance, is without the slightest in- 
 dication of the beau ideal ; yet the painting has 
 many of the attributes of a fine picture ; An 
 Adrian Vanderveldt, consisting of Two White 
 Sheep, admirably finished, but rather vapid ; A 
 painting by D. Teniers, of Two Pilgrims with 
 OUR Saviour, greatly out of the line of his 
 study — we have no sublime associations connect- 
 ed with Dutch boors. Then follow, a picture 
 by P. Wouwermans, consisting of a number of 
 Figures and Horses, carefully finished, but too 
 dark ; his favourite white horse is awanting to give 
 it point and effect ; A picture by Peter de Laer of 
 SuMPTKR MuLKS, treated in a style above the sub- 
 ject ; An Old Head in Mosaic, extremely clever, 
 with all the freedom of a painting in oil ; A de- 
 
 U 
 
 Hghtful small picture of a Holy Family by Ludo- 
 vico Caracci, mellow and sweetly coloured: A 
 Head by Titian, full of spirit : A small Rem- 
 brandt : A Vanderheyden, with exquisite detail 
 and general effect : Pots and Pans by D, Teniers : 
 A Satyr by Rubens, remarkably free : Some Fi- 
 gures represented near the sea, by Salvator Rosa, 
 a picture full of light and effect. This list com- 
 prehends most of the painters in this small col- 
 lection. I have made few remarks on them, be- 
 cause, in this letter, I wish to give you some ac- 
 count of the very ancient paintings in fresco, in 
 the ruins of the Baths of Titus, and a picture cal- 
 led the Aldobrandini Marriage, in the collection 
 of Signore Nelli. 
 
 The Aldobrandini Marriage is a celebrated 
 rehc of antiquity. It was sawn or cut out from a 
 wall, forming part of the Baths of Titus, and has 
 been often copied by celebrated painters, especially 
 by Niccolo Poussin : a very beautiful picture from 
 his pencil of this precious bequest of time may be 
 seen in the Doria Palace. The ancient painting 
 consists of ten figures, all of them female, with 
 the exception of the bridegroom, at the bottom of 
 the couch of the bride, who is sitting beautifully 
 attired in white drapery, accompanied by a female 
 who seems to be addressing her ; three other fe- 
 males appear on the left, (on looking towards the 
 picture,) then follows a nymph near an altar, in 
 
 VOL. Jl. „ 
 
m 
 
 66 
 
 BATHS OF TITUS. 
 
 BATHS OF TITUS. 
 
 67 
 
 an attitude of pouring liquid from a small vase 
 to offer to the bride ; on the right of the bride- 
 groom are three figures, seemingly preparing for 
 ablution ; and near these is a figure close upon 
 an altar, succeeded by another in a beautiful easy 
 posture, holding a harp of seven strings. Ihe 
 whole painting is in a light sketchy style; the 
 shade of flesh is hatched, or done in lines with a 
 reddish purple, heightened with a warm brown. 
 The only colours used are red, approaching to a 
 crimson brown, (which, indeed, prevail throughout 
 the picture,) greens, inclining to the hue of ver- 
 digris, brilliant orange, purple, and a beautiful 
 white. These colours are almost exclusively on 
 the drapery of the figures. The back-ground is 
 principally taken up with a screen, which is of a 
 whitish pui-ple, the vacant ground being surround- 
 ed with a pale green. As a work of art it has 
 great merit, chiefly for the purity of taste which 
 it displays ; and when we consider that it is but 
 a specimen of the house-ornament painting of 
 ancient times, it certainly excites our surprise in 
 a very high degree, and seems to prove that the 
 ancient painters are justly entitled to the great 
 name which they had acquired, since they excelled 
 in the essential and mental part of the art. 
 
 The Baths of Titus are full of curious examples 
 of ancient painting, from simple ornament, and 
 fanciful figures, which even Raphael has deigned 
 
 to study in his more carefully finished paintings. 
 But I shall lead you regularly through these ancient 
 ruins, till we come to the apartments where the finest 
 ornaments and pictures are to be seen. The earth 
 and rubbish had nearly filled the galleries and cham- 
 bers of these baths : the walls near the roof, and the 
 roof itself, in some places, are written over with 
 innumerable names. They have, however, been 
 lately excavated, and exhibit apartments of consi- 
 derable size. In one of these, which is open to 
 the light of day, there is a collection of various ar- 
 ticles found in clearing away the rubbish, such as 
 amphorae, terra cotta ornaments, colours in vases, 
 fragments of columns, capitals, glass, bricks and 
 jars, with the maker's name distinctly stamped 
 upon them, such as AVRILLA BASCANI 
 C,CLVENTI, AMPLIATI, &c. The ancient 
 ornament painting in the inferior or smaller divi- 
 sionsof the building is by no means good, nor is it 
 well coloured—red, orange, and blue predominate. 
 From one apartment we were led to others, 
 and found the painting improved as we advanced. 
 'i'lie roofs being at least 50 feet in height, and no 
 daylight being admitted in the apartments, a per- 
 son held up wax lights on the top of a pole, and 
 by these we exann*ned the pictures. A Muse of 
 the most graceful fbrm, with a musical instrument 
 111 her hand, delighted us much : some Cattle, 
 too, grouped together, in the style of Cuyp's etch- 
 
68 
 
 BATHS OF TITUS. 
 
 ing, were very natural. A Baccante, full of ideal 
 beauty, and a Nymph and Faun, are in the finest 
 taste. Sheep and Lions, and various ornaments, 
 prettily designed, commanded our admiration; 
 these, together with the various figures, are all 
 painted on a white ground. The gallery discover- 
 ed in the time of Raphael, is extremely interesting, 
 not only from his having improved his mind in 
 studying there, but because the painting is per- 
 haps superior to what we found in the other cham- 
 bers. On the roof is a picture, which has been 
 copied by Annibal Caracci, said to represent Co- 
 RioLANUS AND HIS MoTHEii, quitc upon the prin- 
 ciple of a finished painting : the figures are high- 
 ly relieved upon a dark ground ; the moisture, 
 which was dropping from it through a fissure, en- 
 abled us to see it as if it were varnished, and we 
 found the colouring and drawing extremely beauti- 
 ful. In the same apartment is a winged Mercury, 
 and a figure of Victory, both in excellent taste. 
 I have mentioned only a few of the subjects in these 
 chambers ; there are many others that equally ex- 
 hibit refinement of mind. These invaluable re- 
 mains, when seen by the eye of genius, after the 
 arts in Italy were again rising from the shade 
 of barbarism which had been cast upon them, 
 must have elicited ideas of grace and beauty, and 
 afforded a glimpse into the region of perfection. 
 We know not, indeed, how much we are indebted 
 
 prices given to ancient painters. 69 
 
 to these, and similar paintings discovered in Her- 
 culaneum: no one can examine even the prints from 
 them, without confessing the superiority of taste 
 discoverable in ancient art. We unfortunately 
 know nothing of the merits of their more elaborate 
 and highly finished pictures, further than what 
 is handed down to us by various writers of anti- 
 quity ; the remains, however, in the Bath of Titus, 
 the Aldobrandini painting, and the pictures dis' 
 covered at Herculaneum, are suflSciently striking 
 examples of what they were capable of perfonnt 
 ing, especially when we reflect that all these 
 were painted on walls, and many of them in sub- 
 ordinate buildings. The great sums which both 
 the Grecians and Romans gave for paintin-s, 
 must have stimulated the ancient artists to eve% 
 exertion of the mind, to the poetry, to the acquisi- 
 tion of that heavenly fire which kindled the purest 
 feelings of the soul, and enabled them to call upon 
 the voice of fame to sound their praise through 
 endless generations ! * To those pecuniary en- 
 
 * Pliny, speaking of a picture of Aristi.les, says ii was 
 bouuht or rerleemed by King Attalu. for IGO tale.Ks, L. 19,375. 
 
 When the Romans became acquainted with tbe value of pic- 
 ture., the Medea and Ajax of Timon,achus were bou'^ht by 
 Julms Caesar for 80 talents L. 15,500. Ilortensius paid for 
 the Argonauts of Cydias L. 1162, lOs. 
 
 The Venus Anadyomene, by Apell.s, was valued at 100 
 talents, (lor so much tribute was remitted for it,) L. 19,375. 
 
70 
 
 STATUES OF CASTOR AND POLLUX. 
 
 STATUE OF MOSES. 
 
 71 
 
 couragements must be added the incentives of 
 emulation, and the light of science. The Greek 
 artists glowed with a republican love of glory, and 
 were conversant at the same time with a refined 
 philosophy. Their genius was elevated with the 
 most sublime ideas of perfection, and they had 
 thus the power of combining those high views of 
 art, which individual nature does not present. 
 
 The public colossal statues of Castor and 
 Pollux, said to be by Phidias and Praxiteles, on 
 Monte Cavallo, are superior to all the statues of 
 that description which I have seen in Italy. Both 
 of the figures are in the act of guiding tneir horses, 
 and are remarkable for lightness and manly beauty ; 
 suo-crestins no idea of huge blocks of marble, as 
 most of the colossal statues do. The propor- 
 tions of these figures are exquisite, and from 
 certain points they appear little inferior to the 
 finest statues in the world. The horses, how- 
 ever, are not so well proportioned. That the 
 sculptors might give dignity to the figures, tlity 
 
 Apclles was paid for his Alexander hol.iing the thun.ler 
 (which was put up in the TempU- of Diana at Ephcsus) 20 
 talents of gold, which, according to the decuple propi-rtion, is 
 L.38,750. It would come to more, if reckoned according 
 to our proportion helwixt gold and sdver. 
 
 Nicias the painter refused for Necromanti® Ilomeri 60 
 talents, L. \\,iy:5.-'Arbuthnors Tables of Ancient Coins, 
 Jl 'cigh ts ^ and Mea a m res , S^c, 
 
 have made the horses comparatively small, — a 
 liberty which will not be condemned by the judi- 
 ^ cious critic. The ancients do not appear to have 
 
 given so great sums, comparatively speaking, for 
 their colossi, as for their paintings. The colossal 
 statues, considering the length of time required to 
 finish them, have been but indifferently paid. * 
 
 The famous statue of MosEs,by Michatl Angelo, 
 in the church of St Peter in Vincoli, is one of those 
 works which startle the beholder, and will always 
 excite a diversity of opinion. The daring bold- 
 ness and seeming defiance of public sentiment is 
 very striking. That it is a magnificent work, at 
 the head of modern art, cannot be denied. It 
 is grand, and the display of anatomical knowledge 
 is astonishing ; the whole is complete, every part is 
 m unison ; but the union is so uncommon, that it 
 leads us always to hesitate and doubt, though we 
 feel and know it to be a great perfonnance. The 
 
 * The Colossus of the Sun at Rhodes, made in twelve years, 
 by Chares of Lindus, was 105 feet in height, and cost 300 ta- 
 lents or L. 58,125. The .tatue of Apollo in the Capitol, 
 brought from Pontus by Lucullus,45 feet in height,, cost 150 
 talents, L. 29,06*2, 10s. The Mercury of Zenodorus, setup in 
 the city of Auvergne, which, Pliny says, exceeded all the sU- 
 tues of his time in magnitude, and the making of which oc- 
 cupied the artist for ten years, cost only 400 sesLertia, or 
 ^ 3229, 3s. 4>d,-^ Arbut/mot's Tables of Ancient Coins, 
 ^'eights, and Measures, pp. 166, 16?. 
 
72 
 
 STATUE OF MOSES. 
 
 figure is somewhat colossal, in a sitting attitude ; 
 his forehead is furnished with horns, and his pro- 
 digious flowing beard would reach to his knee, were 
 he to stand upright. His right arm rests on 
 the Commandments, and his left hand presses on 
 his belly, as if he were suffering from pain. The 
 lower part of the figure is clothed in drapery, 
 not so simply treated as perliaps the figure de- 
 mands ; and the legs, from the peculiai* way in 
 which they are clothed, comparing them with an- 
 cient statues of warriors, have a martial appearance. 
 Viewing the statue from the right, on the left hand 
 of the beholder, the countenance is pleasing and 
 mild, from the front it is severe, and from the left 
 it has a very particular and goatish look. In point 
 of execution the sculpture is perfect, bold, and 
 decided, and the deep chiselling in many parts 
 gives great relief to the larger folds of the drapery; 
 a part of the neck is left unfinished, but this does 
 not in the slightest degree interfere with the ge- 
 neral effect. 
 
 : 
 
 
 > 
 
 LETTER XXXVIII. 
 
 RO.ME. 
 
 Paintings in the Doria Palace. 
 
 I>f the Doria Palace are several landscapes in 
 size colours, painted on the walls. The best are 
 by Caspar Poussin. Their character is light- 
 ness and freedom of pencilling ; but, with few 
 exceptions, they have a chalky appearance, and 
 seem more like preparations to receive rich gla- 
 zmgs, than paintings intended to remain in their 
 present state. Indeed, by painting first with 
 opaque water colours, and afterwards varnishing 
 and finishing witii oil colours, a greater degree of 
 splendour may perhaps be obtained, than by paint- 
 ing wholly with either kind. By this method 
 mnumerable beautiful and natural tones are ob- 
 tained ; the accidental varieties are continually 
 suggesting hints, of which a skilful artist will 
 know how to avail himself. This method seems 
 besides, to have the advantage of checkin- the 
 mannerism of style, which a painter is likely to 
 acquire, by keeping wholly to one mode of paint- 
 
74 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE DORIA PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE DOUIA PALACE. 
 
 75 
 
 ing. Indeed, tlie curious and successful experiments 
 wliich you yourself have made, together with those 
 of Mr Geddes and Mr Andrew Wilson, are suf- 
 ficient to prove the advantages arising from uniting 
 the captivating qualities of oil and water colours. 
 
 But to return to the Doria Palace, the col- 
 lection of pictures there is amonnr the first in 
 Rome; varied with landscapes of Gaspar Poussin 
 and Claude, and pictures of the different schools, 
 it excites an interest peculiar to itself. The first 
 room is wholly covered with landscapes in size co- 
 lours, by Poussin, Ciccio Napolitano, and Rosa. 
 The second apartment, which is of considerable 
 dimensions, is likewise filled almost exclusively with 
 large pictures by Poussin. None of them, how- 
 ever, are very good ; they are ill composed, black 
 and heavy : but as no landscape by Gaspar Poussin 
 can be wholly without attractions, we discovered 
 many beautiful episodes or subordinate parts. One 
 of his subjects in water colours, consisting of a few 
 stems of trees, with a winding road towards some 
 poplars, is likewise painted in oil ; but the former 
 is infinitely superior, and seems to have retained 
 its colouring without any change whatever, while 
 the latter has entirely lost its brilliancy. 
 
 The third, fourth, fifth, and sixth rooms contain 
 many pictures by Titian, A. Caracci, Caravaggio, 
 Bassan, Rubens, Vandyke, Francisco Mola, Hol- 
 bein, and others : none of these, however, are en- 
 
 titled to be classed with the high productions of art. 
 The great gallery, however, abounds in admirable 
 and choice works, chiefly of the following masters: 
 Raphael, Claude, Velasquez, Titian, the Carraccis, 
 Domenichino, Fra. Bartolommeo, Guido, Paimi- 
 giano, Paul Veronese, Leonardo da Vinci, Guer- 
 cino, and N. Poussin. It were vain to attempt to 
 describe this great collection ; I shall therefore only 
 notice the principal pictures by Claude Lorain, 
 and perhaps one or two others. You nnist, indeed, 
 be heartily sick of the monotonous and tiresome 
 remarks which I have already sent you, remarks 
 which can give no idea of the beautiful and in- 
 teresting works to which they allude, and which I 
 fear it may have been presumptuous in me to offer. 
 There are five Claudes in this gallery, two large 
 and three small. The former, w hich are the best, and 
 are of the highest class, are both engraved by Vi- 
 veres ; the one is called the Mulixo, and the other 
 the Temple of Apollo, in the island of Delos. The 
 former consists of a beautiful expansive river, over 
 which is a bridge of many arches, and near the eye 
 are several fishing boats; to the left, among some 
 ruins of ancient edifices, the mill appears, which gives 
 the name to the picture; on the right some temples, 
 with a sacrifice, grace the opposite bank ; and behind 
 is part of a city stretching towards the distant moun- 
 tains, which are connected with a sloping hill and 
 beauteous waterfalls ; nearer the eye, towards the 
 
 II 
 
76 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE DORIA PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE DORIA PALACE. 
 
 77 
 
 mill, is a lovely group of trees pleasingly diversified 
 by various foliage; below there is a small bridge 
 with cattle drinking, and immediately on the fore- 
 ground are several figures, a dance, and a display 
 of silver urns. The figures are partly in light and 
 partly in shade, under the branches of magnificent 
 spreading trees, whose deep shadows, with the dark 
 green ivy on their stems, sug-est ideas of freshness, 
 and of a cool retreat from the heat and splendour 
 of an evening sun. The general effect is lumin- 
 ous and rich, and the pencilling of the trees is 
 without a fault. The air, too, which envelopes the 
 distance, is of the purest tone,— a tone of pearly 
 clearness, which can only be seen in this delight- 
 ful country. 
 
 Were I to offer any censure upon this beautiful 
 painting, I would say, that perhaps there is some 
 thinir heterosfeneous in combininiij mills with classic 
 temples, and fishing and dancing with sacrifices, 
 I might likewise observe, that, from the few openings 
 among the foliage, there is an appearance of heavi- 
 ness in the trees, which is not improved by the re- 
 peated glazings. The picture of the Temple of 
 Apollo is tlie finer composition of the two ; but it 
 is not so pleasing in point of colouring, the sun 
 being in the centre, beaming among few but noble 
 objects, a greater degree of splendour might have 
 been expected. On the right appears the temple, 
 a beautiful building, and evidently suggested by the 
 
 Mausoleum of Hadrian as it was in ancient times. 
 Near the base of this building the horizontal line of 
 the sea runs with little interruption to the opposite 
 side of the picture : below the horizon (for the 
 point of sight is high) are various ruins and inte- 
 resting objects enveloped in mysterious air, the sun 
 revealing, but sparingly, their local colours : near 
 the middle of the picture, a stately group of trees 
 rises over a bridge with characteristic figures. The 
 fore-ground (different from the print) is simple ; a 
 few figures in the deepest shadow are sitting near 
 some noble stems on the left, which reach to the 
 top of the picture, and afford points of the deepest 
 shade and colour, to contrast with the splendour of 
 the sun. The whole is natural, without any great 
 effect of colour, the sun claiming the greatest field 
 of light, and giving but little to the edges of the 
 varied objects. * 
 
 A Landscape with Figures, by Annibal Ca- 
 racci, which hangs near the landscape byClaude, ap- 
 pears cold and chalky contrasted with it, though in 
 colouring it is rich. The brilliancy of light in the 
 
 * III my Ktter from Florence, (page 108,) I promised to give 
 you S()m(> of my remarks on the compositions of Claude Lorain, 
 after seeing the pictures by tliat master in the Doria Palace 
 in llome. I have since preferred introducing these remarks 
 in my letter on the use which the great masters have made of 
 the edifices in Rome, (page 321, Vol. I.) 
 
 M 
 
78 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE DORIA PALACE, 
 
 skies of Claude's pictures gives a value to every hue. 
 One of the finest pictures in the gallery is that of 
 Pope Pamphili by Velasquez,— a duplicate of 
 the picture in Mr Alexander Gordon's collection; 
 the mind of the man seems to be beaming from his 
 countenance, which is characteristic in the highest 
 deo-ree. I have seldom seen a picture that pleased 
 me more ; it has all the truth of Raphael, combined 
 with the facility of Rembrandt. Tiie works of this 
 master are by no means common in Italy ; but 
 when they do occur, they are greatly prized. Some 
 small landscapes by Uomenichino are truly ex- 
 cellent, rich in colouring and finely generalized. 
 A Virgin and Sleeping Child, by Guido, is 
 inimitable in the expression of quiet and repose. It 
 is in his light manner, and always has a circle of ad- 
 mirers about it ; beauty of colouring pleases every 
 eye. Belisarius, by Salvator Rosa, is a picture 
 that would do honour to any master; it is rich and 
 grand without mannerism. I am greatly tempted 
 to speak of a beautiful drawing by Correggio, and 
 many excellent pictures by the various masters, but 
 for the reason already stated, I must at least delay 
 till I have an opportunity of describing them to you 
 in person. Besides, it is natural to suppose, that 
 you may wish to know something of the collections 
 in the other palaces in this interesting city. 
 
 LETTER XXXIX. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Pictures in the Colonnn Palace,— Description of the Gallery. 
 — Corsini Collection of Pictures Corsini Villa. 
 
 In the anti-room of the splendid Gallery of Co- 
 lonna Palace, there are many pictures in size co- 
 lours by Gaspar Poussin, Horizonti, and others. 
 Gaspar Poussin's are infinitely the best, though 
 somewhat raw and green, and with the same chalky 
 effect of those in the Palazzo Doria. They are all 
 sketchy and slight, with a happy union of nature 
 and science in the various compositions : a straight 
 and uninterrupted line seems to be a favourite fea- 
 ture with this great master. In the same apart- 
 ment, there is a large landscape by Claude Lorain, 
 but neither the colouring nor composition are to 
 be compared with the Mulino or the Temple of 
 Apnilo ; the trees too at the top, especially the 
 one nearly in the centre of the picture, are by 
 much too heavy. Claude's usual taste is not 
 perceptible in the forms of his stems, nor is his 
 choice of his buildings good ; altogether, indeed. 
 
 h 
 
 
80 PAINTINGS IN THE COLONNA PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE COLONNA PALACE. 
 
 81 
 
 it is unlike a work from his sunny mind and lu- 
 minous pencil. Opposite to this painting is a 
 picture by Berghem, of the Angels appearing 
 TO the Shepherds. Nothing can afford a more 
 convincing proof than this picture, that common 
 nature is unequal to these sublime representations. 
 The cattle, sheep, and figures, are all painted in 
 Berirhem's usual manner: but one can hardly be- 
 lieve that an angel would be seen among objects 
 so familiar. Bassan's style, low as it occasionally 
 is, would be more appropriate for such a subject, 
 which seems to exceed the powers even of Berg- 
 hem's admirable pencil. The angel might be brush- 
 ed out, and the picture would remain a pretty little 
 Cattle-piece. 
 
 The cabinets in this apartment, which are su- 
 perbly rich with carved ivory and precious stones, 
 attract more eyes than the pictures : indeed, I 
 have often observed, that paintings have little 
 chance of being admired, especially by the fair 
 sex, when rubies and emeralds are beaming before 
 their eyes. In looking up the Gallery, which is 
 certahily the finest we have met with in Rome, we 
 were struck with its superb appearance. Between 
 two noble columns of yellow antique, fa rare and 
 valuable stone,) the magnificent apartment, finish- 
 ed in a similar manner at the opposite end, but 
 with numerous steps ascending to a high room, 
 is seen to great advantage. On the roof of the 
 
 gallery, is painted the Battle of Lepanto, and not 
 an inch of it is uncovered with painting or with 
 gold ; tlie brackets which support the noble cor- 
 nice are all higlily ornamented and gilded, and 
 the pilasters, twenty-four in number, are of the yel- 
 low antique. Trophies in gold are placed between 
 each pilaster, and the numerous mirrors are paint- 
 ed by Carlo Maratti. The tables are of Pietra 
 Dura, entirely of precious stones. The floor is com- 
 posed of various and uncommon marbles, curiously 
 ornamented. From the roof are suspended thirty., 
 two splendid lustres. The furniture is of satin 
 and gold, and the whole, with the pictures and 
 antique statues, * forms an extraordinary assem- 
 blaure of riches and taste. A subdued amber 
 light over all produces a captivating appearance, 
 and the highly polished marble floor reflects every 
 object, and keeps up the general and splendid 
 effect. There are but few paintings, for which, in- 
 deed, the profusion of ornament leaves little space; 
 at each end, however, there are some by Guido, 
 Salvator Rosa, Tintoretto, Spagniolet, Travasane, 
 Guercino, &c. And in the upper room, at the head 
 of the Gallery, are a few by Titian, Albano, Bor- 
 
 * A statue called Ilomcr's Venus, a Nymph, and a statue of 
 Diaii;!, are among the best ; Venus is dividing her hair with 
 both liaiids ; the figure is heavy, and the drapery, which is 
 modern, bad. Tliey arc all supposed to be of Grecian art* 
 
 VOL. II, F 
 
r 
 
 82 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE COLONNA PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE COLONNA PALACE. 
 
 83 
 
 gognone, and Paul Veronese ; but they are not 
 pictures of distinguished eminence. 
 
 The St Sebastian, by Guido, in the Great Gal- 
 lery, is splendid in effect and colour ; two females 
 appear to be picking out the darts from his side. 
 The subject cannot be said to be a pleasing one, but, 
 as treated by Guido, it is not offensive. Salvator 
 Rosa's St John Prraching in the Wilderness 
 is full of character, and painted with all the power 
 of the master. Guercino's pictures are not so 
 pleasing. The Family of Colonna, by Paul 
 Veronese, and a picture by Titian, of a Family 
 IN Heaven, both in the higher room, are excel- 
 lent pictures ; but I still object to the common 
 portrait in vulgar attire, being surrounded with 
 angels and celestial glory. 
 
 In the upper apartments are some landscapes m 
 size by Gaspar Poussin, but not so good as those 
 below. * A Female Head called the Cince, said 
 to be by Guido, but more like a picture by 
 Guercino, is extremely beautiful and much ad- 
 mired. The story attached to it gives it inter- 
 
 . Undscapes in water colours, by Gaspar Poussin, are not 
 confined to the Doria an<l Colonnn Palaces ; many of them 
 arr likewise to be seen in the Church of the Carmelites, with 
 figures said to be painted by Niccolo Poussin. These have 
 lately been etched by a Roman engraver, but the des.pns, 
 thouph they have the character of Caspar's compositions, are 
 Bot remarkably good. 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 est ; it is supposed to be the portrait of a Girl who 
 murdered her Father while he attempted to offer 
 her violence : she has a white turban on her head, 
 and appears about fifteen years of age, with a me- 
 lancholy yet pleasing countenance. The finest 
 picture in the Palace is a Magdalene by Guido ; 
 her hands are placed across each other, and her 
 golden hair (a colour in great favour with the 
 poet and the painter) flows in lovely ringlets. 
 The countenance is divinely beautiful, and perhaps 
 would have been rendered still more so by the 
 introduction of a tear. 
 
 The various apartments are filled with pictures. 
 The best are a Virgin and Child in Raphael's 
 second manner ; A Man Eating Macaroni by 
 Annibal Caracci ; A Dead Christ by G. Bassan; 
 The Head and Shoulders of an Angel by 
 Guercino ; Two Saints, said to be by Carlo Dolci; 
 Two of Backhausen's Sea Pieces ; as many of 
 Zeeman's; and Pope Corsini by Rosalba. There 
 are innumerable pictures by Lucatelli and Hori- 
 zonti. Tlie latter, an imitator of Poussin, makes 
 great use of the Roman buildings in his composi- 
 tions, but they are seldom introduced in a na- 
 tural manner, generally appearing forced and out 
 of place. 
 
 Corsini Palace. 
 The Corsini Palace contains a few Landscapes 
 
84 PAINTINGS IN THE CORSINI PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE CORSINI PALACE. 
 
 85 
 
 by Caspar Poussin. Many of them are undoubt- 
 edly fine, but not to be compared with several 
 in the private collections in England. The best 
 is engraved by Gmelen, and is called Rinaldo 
 AND Armida. The composition consists of beauti- 
 fully wooded mountains, and rocks crowned with 
 buildings, below which appears a waterfall. The 
 fore -ground is composed of broken ground, with 
 a winding road, and on each side of the picture 
 are lofty trees. The fault in this painting is 
 the total want of clearness in the shadows. It 
 makes a beautiful print, but the engraver has given 
 more distinctness to the detail than is perceptible 
 in the painting. The small landscapes of romantic 
 scenes by Poussin are fresh and vigorous, without 
 the defects in Rinaldo and Armida. In one in- 
 stance, he has left the canvas uncovered, for the 
 colour of the shadows of the rocks ; in effect, at 
 some distance it answers very well, but on exami- 
 nation it appears slight and unsatisfactory. Two 
 or three small pictures, by Salvator Rosa, are very 
 pleasing compositions ; they are chiefly painted 
 with a brownish colour, with warm yellowish lights, 
 and but little grain on the vegetation. A Head 
 OF Christ Cuowned with Thorns, by Guercino, 
 is an astonishing and an affecting picture, remark- 
 able for expression ; indeed, it is the best I have 
 seen by that master. It cannot fail to command the 
 admiration of every beholder. A Mother and 
 
 4 
 
 Child, too, by Caravaggio, has great effect, with 
 all the simplicity of nature. Fra. Bartolommeo's 
 picture of a Holy Fa mjly is splendid in colour, and 
 full of classical conception of character. There is 
 likewise in the same room a pretty little upright pic- 
 ture with a white horse, by Both ; it is sweetly 
 pencilled, but somewhat foxy in the general co- 
 louring. Popii Julius II. by Raphael, makes 
 the third original picture of this subject, viz. one 
 in the Tribune in Florence, another in the Palazzo 
 Pitti, and a third in the Corsini Palace ; they 
 are all three extremely like each other ; indeed, 
 I could not perceive any material deviation. The 
 only difference that occurred to me, on comparing 
 this picture with the impression which the others 
 have produced on my mind, is, that the hands 
 seem somewhat colder in the colouring. Pictures 
 by Bassan are numerous in this palace ; indeed, 
 they are everywhere, as well as the works of Ru- 
 bens. By the latter master, there is here a splen- 
 did Tiger Hunt full of spirit. The ferocious 
 animal has sprung upon a man on horseback, 
 and there is something so dreadful in the conflict, 
 that we involuntarily start back. Rubens always 
 addresses the mind. One of the apartments con- 
 tains a painting of Venus in a reclining attitude, 
 surrounded with satyrs and dogs ; it is a good 
 picture, but the principal lights are too much de- 
 tached from each other. The landscape back- 
 
86 PAINTINGS IN THE CORSINI PALACE. 
 
 ground is gloomy and gi^and, indicating the first 
 appearance of the rising day. On asking the cus- 
 todi, whether he thought it an original painting, 
 his eyes started in his head, and he bellowed Secura, 
 originalissimo signore ! 
 
 In the green room there is a pretty picture of a 
 Virgin and Child by Muiillo, but very tame, 
 compared with Fra. Bartolonimeo's painting of the 
 same subjects. The harmony of colouring, how- 
 ever, is pleasing, and is as follows. First, white and 
 flesh ; next, leaden-coloured grey, crimson, pink ; 
 then a return of flesh, blue, purple, and brown. 
 Brueghel is a master of great repute in Italy: there 
 is no collection without one or two of his works, 
 and certainly they are superior to any thing I have 
 seen from his pencil in England. In this pulace 
 there is a Boar Hunt of his painting ; the colour- 
 ing of the figures and the fore-ground are quite ini- 
 raitable, and not unlike the best pictures by Wat- 
 teau : the rural beauty perceptible in the subordi- 
 nate parts of the distant scenery is extremely fine. 
 The red room exhibits some small pictures by 
 Guido, and a painting of Christ in the Gar- 
 DEN, which the custodi said was by Correggio ; 
 but on looking him in the face, and repeating his 
 word originalissimo, I received no answer. I re- 
 quired none, the picture being evidently an indif- 
 ferent copy. A painting, by Salvator Rosa, of a 
 Vulture tearing out the entrails of a Human Being, 
 
 PAINTINGS IN THE CORSINI PALACE. 
 
 87 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 1 
 
 (TiTYUS AND THE VuLTURE,) Only excitcd dis- 
 gust and horror, and I may add regret, that such 
 a master could employ his splendid talents on a 
 subject so revolting. 
 
 I have mentioned but a few of the paintings in 
 the Corsini Palace ; there are many others worthy 
 of notice, by Italian, Venetian, and Flemish mas- 
 ters. 
 
 In the Villa Corsini we were much gratified by 
 the basso relievos of Canova, representing Piety, a 
 Mother teaching her Children, together with 
 some allegorical subjects. In one of the rooms we 
 perceived a very glaring instance of bad taste, — some 
 busts painted in the ceiling with their faces down- 
 wards, presenting a very ridiculous and unnatural 
 appearance. The views from the villa are beauti- 
 ful ; especially as we look towards St Peter's, 
 the combinations of wood and building form the 
 finest pictures. 
 
 r 
 
LETTER XL. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Painiings in the Spada Palace — Statue of Pompei/, sup- 
 posed to be the Statue at which Ccesar fell by the arm of 
 Brutus. — Collection of Pictures in the Sciarra Palace. — 
 
 Barberini Pictures Frescoes by A, Caracci. — The 
 
 Farnese Palace, 
 
 The paintings in the Spada Palace are all of an 
 inferior class. They have great names, but the 
 originality of most of them may be doubted ; at 
 least, if they be original, they only prove that good 
 ])aiiiters have produced very indifferent works. 
 There is, however, a clever sketch or two by An- 
 nibal Caracci and Salvator Rosa. The pictures of 
 Judith and of Llcretia appear to be copies of 
 the celebrated pictures by Guido, in the collec- 
 tion of Mr Alexander Gordon of Edinburgh. As 
 these pictures have been much admired lor their 
 harmony of colouring, I have made a note of it. 
 The harmony of Judith is as follows : White against 
 flesh ; then follows blue with a border of gold, on 
 a drapery which inclines to dark grey, opposed to 
 blue, and succeeded by orange : a dark olive-green 
 curtain appears in the back-ground, and is a pltas- 
 
 STATUE OF POMPEY. 
 
 89 
 
 ing relief to the whole. In the picture of Lucretia, 
 white is also opposed to the flesh colour ; next 
 to which is a greenish grey, succeeded by blue, 
 crimson, and pui-ple, with a curtain behind, of the 
 colour of red lake. 
 
 There are likewise two other pictures, said to be 
 by Guido and Guercino ; the one the Rape of 
 HiiLEN, and the other the Death of Dido ; 
 both pictures have considerable merit in painting, 
 but the subjects are poorly treated. Indeed, the 
 beholder can hardly imagine any thing more ab- 
 surd or out of character than the former. Helen 
 is proceeding down the steps of a palace, with her 
 hand in that of her lover's, while her female at- 
 tendant (more beautiful than herself; is carrying 
 her lap-dog ! a Boy, too, appears below with her 
 monkey and a snarling cur ! Dido by Guercino, 
 upon her funeral pile, has a sword like a huge 
 spit through her body, yet there is no expression 
 of pain in her countenance, or any indication of 
 approaching death. What painting could be ad- 
 mired with, such inconsistencies ? 
 
 The principal attraction in the Spada Palace is the 
 Statue of Pompky, said to be the identical statue 
 at the foot of which great Ca}sar fell. * It is co- 
 lossal, about nine feet in height ; the figure rests 
 
 * *' The history of this statue,'* bays Eustace, " deserves to 
 be recorded. It was first placed, during Pompey's life, in 
 
90 
 
 STATUE OF POMPEY. 
 
 STATUE OF POMPEY. 
 
 91 
 
 upon the right leg, the left having been drawn 
 back ; the right hand is extended, as if about to 
 
 the Senate House which he had erected ; and when that edi- 
 fice was shut up, It Nsas raised, by order of Augustus, on a 
 double arch or gateway ot marble, opposite the grand entrance 
 of Pompcy's theatre. It was thrown down, or fell, during 
 the convulsion ot the Gothic wars, and for many ages it lay 
 buried m the ruins. It was at length discovered, I believe, 
 about the beginning of the seventeenth century, in a partition 
 wall between two houses. After some altercation, the pro- 
 prietors of the two houses agreed to cut the statue asunder, 
 and to divide the marble; when foitunately the Cardinal de 
 Spada heard the circumstance, and, by a timely purchase, 
 preventeu the accomplishment oi the barbarous agreement, 
 and the destruction of one of the most interesting remnants of 
 
 antiquity. 
 
 Another danger awaited Pompey*s statue at a much later 
 period, and Irom an unexpected quarter. While the French 
 occupied Rome in the years 1798.!;9,&c. they erected in the 
 centre of the Coliseum a temporary theatre, where they acted 
 various republican pieces, for the amusement of the army, and 
 for the improvement of such Romans as might be disposed to 
 fraternize with them, and to adopt their principles. Vol- 
 taire's Brutus was a favourite tragedy ; and, in order to give 
 it more tt^ect, it was resolved to transport the veiy statue of 
 Poropey, at the ftetof which the Dictator fell, to the Coli- 
 seum, and to erect it upon the stage. The colossal size of 
 the statue, and its t xtended arm, rendered it difficult to dis- 
 place it ; the aim ^^as therefore sawed off for the conveyance, 
 and put on again at the Coliseum ; and on the second re- 
 moval of the statue, it was again taken off, and again re- 
 placed at the Palazza de Spada." 
 
 Classical TouTy Vol. II. p. 32, 33. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 give action to speech, and the left holds a globe, 
 expressive of dominion ; a belt appears round the 
 body suspending a sword, and a little drapery 
 hangs over the left shoulder as low as the groin ; 
 all the rest of the figure is nude. Speaking of 
 it as a work of art, 1 would say that it is heavy 
 in appearance. The anatomy, nevertlieless, is 
 well expressed, and the limbs are in good propor- 
 tion ; but, in expression, the countenance is gruff 
 and disagreeable. 
 
 This celebrated statue is an illustrious instance of 
 the triumph of art. While the race of the CiEsars 
 has been for many centuries extinct, and even their 
 empire exists only in the page of history, this work of 
 art still survives, to attract the curiosity of the scholar 
 and the connoisseur, and to teach the politician an 
 important lesson of the vicissitudes of human for- 
 tune, the nothingness of human grandeur. Yet, 
 though the lords of mankind have passed away, they 
 have, as patrons of the arts, secured to themselves 
 what may almost be called an immortality upon 
 earth : we tread with veneration where they have 
 trodden, and view with regard the magnificent 
 works which were executed under their direction. 
 The youth, the hero, the statesman, and the sage, 
 are all employed with these productions ; or, to 
 speak in other terms, are studying the lessons 
 which they taught. Since their time, many new 
 paths of science have ])een struck out, and vast 
 
92 
 
 PAINTINGS IN SCIARRA PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN SCIARRA PALACE. 
 
 93 
 
 improvements have been made in many of the arts 
 which embellish life ; but, in the fine arts, little 
 has been done, which bears not a reference to an- 
 tiquity, and the pride of modern skill is to imitate 
 the works of the ancient masters. 
 
 There are other statues in the Spada Pahice, 
 but comparing them with the innumerable excel- 
 lent marbles in Rome, they do not merit particu- 
 lar examination. The Spada Palace, like several 
 other palaces in Rome, has been dispossessed of its 
 best paintings ; and the few that remain, mixed 
 with copies and indifferent works, only excite re- 
 gret, that the noble families should, from mercen- 
 ary motives, poverty, or misfortunes, have parted 
 with their more precious works of art. 
 
 One of the most select small collection of paint- 
 inn's in Rome is in the Sciarra Palace ; the best 
 pictures are those by Raphael, Leonardo da 
 Vinci, Aoostino Caracci, Guide, Claude, Garo- 
 falo, Guercino, N. Poussin, Teniers, and others. 
 There is likewise a good copy, by Carlo Neapoli- 
 tuno, of the Transfiguration by Raphael, and some 
 pictures by Valentino of very considerable merit. 
 On leaving the last mentioned paintings, we met 
 in other apartments with a beautiful, rich, and mel- 
 low picture of Ciiuist at the Well by Garofalo; 
 A Virgin and Child by Titian : Some liassans, 
 very good : A clever sketchy Landscape by N. 
 Poussin : A Picture or two by J. Both ; and a 
 
 I 
 
 small Picture by Claude, full of effect and truth : 
 An admirable picture of Moses by Guido, broad 
 and masterly, wliich, in point of style, might do 
 honour to Michael Angelo: Two pictures, St Mat- 
 thew and St John, by Guercino, both excellent: 
 St John is represented young, and his head is 
 wholly in sliade : A Portrait by Raphael, ex- 
 quisitely painted, and full of expression : Two 
 pictures of Mary Magdalene by Guido, almost 
 exactly the same, except that the one is in red 
 drapery with the bosom more exposed ; and the 
 other is in light purple, with white next the skin ; 
 the last picture has a lighter and better effect than 
 the first, though it is not superior in painting, 
 nor perhaps so expressive of her penitent state ; 
 they are, indeed, beautiful pictures in his silvery 
 style, yet without any of that chalky green appear- 
 ance which we often find in the works of Guido. 
 
 Leonardo's picture of Modesty and Vanity, 
 supposed by some to be a copy by Luini of the pic- 
 ture in Lucien Buonaparte's possession, is a per- 
 fect little gem of finishing, and the same remarks 
 I have already made to the picture in Palazzo 
 Luciano applies to this ; one can hardly believe 
 the common instruments of painting can finish so 
 divinely. Abraham Sacrificing Isaac, by Ger- 
 hard dalle Notti, though well painted, is a most un- 
 pleasing picture : Isaac does not appear to be at 
 all resigned to his fate ; his mouth lias the ex- 
 
94 
 
 PAINTINGS IN SCIARRA PALACE. 
 
 pression of bellowinnr, while his father is thrusting 
 his thumb into it, to keep him quiet: a sheep 
 killing by a common butcher could not be more 
 revolting. Whatever may be the faults of modern 
 painters, they would certainly not shew such a de- 
 , pravity of taste. In painting gamesters, Michael 
 Angelo Caravaggio appears to shine, and here is an 
 admirable specimen of his great talent ; nothing is 
 out of character, and I could almost wish that he 
 had kept to subjects which do not require a greater 
 refinement of mind. A portrait of a Female, said 
 to be by Titian, attracts all eyes ; the expression 
 is winning, and the effect and painting excellent. 
 N. Poussin's Martrydom of St Erasmus, on the 
 other hand, is unpleasing in the extreme : surely 
 a representation of the tearing out the bowels of a 
 human being must disgust every beholder. It is 
 one of those subjects, which, the more nearly they 
 resemble nature, must be only the more hideous. 
 The excellent painting of St Jerolomo, by 
 Guercino, is a happy relief from such a picture ; 
 and even the Brueghels and subordinate masters 
 have greater claims to our attention. Agostino 
 Caracci's portrait of a Male and Female, hold- 
 ING each other by THE HAND, is cxtrcmcly na- 
 tural and easy, without that set and stiff appearance 
 which such portraits occasionally have, not even ex- 
 cepting occasionally the works of the inimitable 
 Vandyke. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN FARNESE PALACE. 
 
 95 
 
 We were informed that tliis collection was con- 
 siderably larger, and that many of the best pictures 
 liave been transferred to the Barberini Palace. * 
 These, at least the choice of them, cannot be seen 
 at present, as the King of Spain occupies the 
 apartments where they are hung; such as are 
 shewn to the public are not remarkable for ex- 
 cellence, nor do they require any particular notice, 
 A Holy Family, said to be by Titian; St 
 Matthew and St Mark, by Guercino ; a small 
 EARLY Landscape by Claude ; a small picture by 
 Parmigiano, and a few others, were the best that 
 were shewn to us. 
 
 In the Farnese Palace there are a few marbles, 
 but none of them remarkably fine. The famous 
 Herculi s, which once adorned it, is now at 
 Naples, and a common cast placed in its former 
 situation. There is a naked EQUb:sTRiAN Fjgcre 
 OF Caligula, and a most forbidding, ferocious, 
 yet pitiful looking wretch, he appears to have been. 
 On examining his contemptible figure, one cannot 
 imagine how a noble and magnanimous people 
 could have endured his cruelties so long. A sta- 
 tue of Merc URY, in the same apartment, can only 
 be called pretty good ; there is nothing of the beau 
 ideal in it ; a pair of duck's wings, upon a common 
 figure, makes but a poor representation of the mes- 
 
 ♦ The Palazzo Sciarra beJongs to the Prince Barberini. 
 
96 
 
 PAINTINGS IN FARNESE PALACE. 
 
 PAINTINGS IN FARNESE PALACE. 
 
 97 
 
 senger of the gods. A beautiful sarcophagus, on 
 which are sculptured many beautiful Bacchanalian 
 figures, is perhaps the best piece of antiquity in the 
 
 collection. 
 
 This palace, however, will always be interesting 
 to the man of taste, from the admirable fresco 
 paintings by Annibal Caracci and Domenichino. 
 They a*re all in fine condition, and seem as if they 
 had been but lately painted. The picture repre- 
 senting Galatea amidst spouting Tritons, 
 Nymphs, and Cupids, is an admirable work in 
 every respect, except that the colouring is perhaps 
 a little too red ; Caracci, with the view of obtain- 
 ing breadth, has introduced very little variety. 
 Fiesh is the only prevailing colour. The Bac- 
 ciius AND Ariadne is a noble picture. They 
 are in their cars, drawn by goats and tigers, ad- 
 mirably painted ; Silenus appears on the shoulders 
 of a set of joyous Bacchaiuds ; the whole is sus- 
 tained with great spirit and character. 
 
 In another apartment, we see Pan offering 
 Wool to Diana ; and in another, Diana carkss- 
 ING Endymion, a clever picture ; two little Cu- 
 pids above are beautifully drawn, especially a little 
 arch creature with his finger at his mouth. In 
 the fresco of Hercules and Ompiiale, Om- 
 phale is in possession of the club of Hercules, 
 while he has her timbrel in his hand. This 
 change of attributes may be all very well, but the 
 
 |f 
 
 lady, I should think, would have done more execu- 
 tion with her eyes, than she is likely to do with 
 the club ; as for Hercules, he certainly looks abun- 
 dantly silly with the musical instrument. 
 
 Another fresco represents Anchises drawing 
 the Buskin from the Foot of Venus. An- 
 chises is by no means a fine figure, at least not 
 such as one would imagine likely to allure the 
 goddess from the skies : he looks so cold too, that 
 we were quite provoked with him. An urchin of 
 a Cupid, however, who appears at the foot of An- 
 chises, plainly tells, from the expression of his 
 countenance, how highly privileged the mortal is, 
 who is permitted to touch the foot of the Goddess 
 of Beauty. The picture of Perseus and Andro- 
 meda cannot be pronounced pleasing. Perseus, 
 an indifferent figure, appears very unfit for his un- 
 dertaking, and the attitude of Andromeda reminds 
 me of the anus on the Isle of Man halfpenny. 
 The picture, notwithstanding, has some good points, 
 the principal of which is colouring. There is ano- 
 ther picture of Perseus, representing him petri- 
 fying Phineus and his companions, by the Medusa's 
 head. The figure of Perseus is clumsy, and from 
 his wild look, he seems to be as much afraid of 
 the head, as if it were to petrify himself. Besides 
 these, there are several others of various sizes, and 
 all of considerable merit. 
 
 VOL. H. Q 
 
THE CARNIVAL. 
 
 99 
 
 LETTER XLI. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Amusements of the Carnival— Rules to be observed by the 
 People,— Religious Ceremonies in the Holy Week — lllumi' 
 nation of the Dome of St Peter s.-^Music called the Mise* 
 rere.'-'Beauti/ul Effect in St Peter s,— Silence and Tem^ 
 perature, S^'C, 
 
 The Carnival. 
 
 Previous to the commencement of the Carnival 
 the cavalry parade the Corso, the street where it 
 IS held. For a time the masks are thinly scatter- 
 ed ; but the plot soon thickens, and various cha- 
 racters make their appearance, such as the Doctor 
 of Bologna, Harlequin, &c. Both sides of the 
 street are fitted up with benches, scaffolds, and 
 chairs for the spectators ; and the windows, filled 
 with people of every rank, are ornamented with 
 crimson velvet and gold. Innumerable open 
 carriages, with all the fashion of Rome, crowd the 
 streets, and move slowly forward. These, as well 
 as the pedestrian masks, are provided with baskets 
 full of balls of Pozzolana sand, about the size 
 of comfits, covered with marble dust, and these 
 
 
 they fling as their fancy directs, whitening and 
 almost blinding each other. In a short time, the 
 confusion becomes complete, and such a scene of 
 merriment and absurdity is rarely to be witnessed. 
 Showers of pozzolana fly from the lower windows, 
 and are returned from the carriages, which, on the 
 other hand, are assailed from the street. The un- 
 fortunate person who may think himself safe, is 
 sure to be completely whitened, and laughed at by 
 the multitude. Squeaking voices from the masks 
 annoy the ear in every direction, and if a person 
 stops to speak, lie may be led into a snare, and 
 overwhelmed with pozzolana. In a short time 
 the monotony of the scene becomes extremely tire- 
 some. The characters are rarely well sustained, 
 and the strangest figures, without meaning, are 
 constantly in motion. At a certain period a gun 
 is fired, when all the carriages must move off as 
 quickly as possible, and for a time, the Corso is 
 left entirely to the pedestrians, who continue to 
 pelt each other,* and act their various characters, 
 till a third gun announces that the horse race is 
 about to begin. All the people then hurry to the 
 benches and scaffolds, and fix their eyes towards 
 the bottom of the street, from whence (in the 
 
 ♦ I observed, that the strangers were more enthusiastic in 
 the various amusements than the natives, and that, under the 
 mask, they laid aside their gravity, and were more agreeable. 
 
 r 
 
100 
 
 THE CARNIVAL. 
 
 Piazza del Popolo) the horses, six m number, st^t 
 without riders. Before they are let loose, they 
 are -oaded. pricked, and tortured in various ways ; 
 ever: fire is fixed upon their backs to urge them 
 forwards. Of course, they ran w.th furious speed, 
 being almost frantic with pain. As soon as they 
 arrive at the head of the Corso they are ca^ht m 
 nets, and the race is over for the day. Ihe prize 
 doe not generally exceed 30 or 40 dollars -da 
 piece of silk given by the Jews. An English 
 horse, belonging to the Duke of Bracciano. gamed 
 all the prizes at this Carnival. 
 
 Were such extraordinary exhibitions to take place 
 in London, there can hardly be a doubt but they 
 would be attended with serious consequences. n 
 Home, however, every thing went on without die 
 slightest insult, or any accident whatever. Tlie 
 meanest be<^o-ar wears a mask ; and a mixture of e- 
 ;TlnTvhile we are enjoying the singul^ 
 of the scene, crosses our mind, when we reflect that 
 such idleness should continue for ^^ral days 
 
 In the regulations which are pasted up m the con- 
 spicuous places, we observed that no person is allow- 
 ed to assume the dress of a priest or a magistrate 
 that no carriages are permitted to stop o take 
 up any person in the Corso ; that the balls o 
 pozzolana must not be above a certain size ha 
 every one must govern his temper, and wear no 
 ofiei sive weapon of any kind ; and that all respect 
 
 RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. 
 
 101 
 
 must be paid to the commands of magistrates and 
 soldiers. The slightest violence or offence is 
 punished by a fine or otherwise, according to the 
 rank of the person ; even immediate imprisonment 
 and the galleys are held up m terror em. 
 
 In the evening there is a curious exhibition of 
 lights in the streets and windows, called Moccole. 
 Every person attempts to obtain a light, which is 
 blown out by the person next him, almost as soon as 
 it is kindled ; this is continued for a time, and is 
 not a little amusing. The whole concludes with a 
 masquerade and dancing in the principal theatre. 
 The theatres are shut after the Carnival, and the 
 holy week offers, I would almost say, another 
 source of idleness to the people. 
 
 The splendid exhibitions, and religious cere- 
 monies of the Catholic Church during that period, 
 are very imposing. It is a custom of this period, 
 that the Pope washes the feet of a certain number 
 of pilgrims, and waits upon them at dinner ; and 
 these lowly offices were performed with such humi- 
 lity and sincerity by the good old man, that it 
 drew a tear from many an eye. In opposition to 
 this homely but affecting ceremony, that of the 
 pope giving his benediction to the people was truly 
 sublime ; not less than 20,000 persons assembled 
 before him, while he appeared in his throne sur- 
 rounded by his cardinals, at one of the great win- 
 dows of St Peter's. After praying for a time, he 
 
IC^ ILLUMINATION OF ST TETER's DOME. 
 
 suddenly started up, like one inspired, and, with 
 extended arms, he blessed the multitude. The 
 whole mass of people instantly fell upon their 
 knees, and a death like silence prevailed, as if the 
 tens of thousands had then resigned their spirits 
 into the hands of their merciful Creator. 
 
 Among the magnificent spectacles of this festive 
 period, the grandest by far is the illumination of 
 the Dome of St Peter's. Conceive this mighty 
 fabric towering through the blackness of night, to 
 the elevation of nearly 500 feet, and shining with 
 innumerable lights, as if all the stars of heaven 
 were clustered together, while some of superior 
 splendour, placed at greater intervals on its ample 
 sides, appeared like stars of the firbt magnitude, 
 or like Venus and Jupiter in all their brilliancy. 
 So stupendous a structure, thus beaming in splcn- 
 dour beneath the sable vault of night, seemed like 
 a celestial palace descended from the skies. 
 
 While this superb spectacle, certainly unequalled 
 in this world, thus elevates the imagination to the 
 bright regions of the blessed, the sublime and 
 affe'^cting music of the Miserere, * impresses the 
 soul with the idea of the pure and holy melody of 
 
 SPECTACLE IN ST PETEr's. 
 
 103 
 
 * This divine music, whicli can cnly be performed in 
 Rome, and which requires months of preparation, Nvas invent- 
 ed by Falcstrina, but it has been greatly enriched by Alligri 
 and Jumilli* 
 
 .J 
 
 the heavenly choirs ; and it is impossible to listen, 
 without exclaiming with Milton, 
 
 Can any mortal mixture o( earth^s mould 
 Breathe such divine, enchanting ravishment ? 
 
 During the holy week, the fireworks at the 
 castle of S. Angelo offers another extraordinary 
 sight, and is indeed next in magnificence to the 
 illumination of St Peter's. On other occasions, 
 we have seen many of the principal functions and 
 ceremonies of the Roman Catholic worship, and 
 notwithstanding the prevalence of formality and 
 apparent mummery, have been much struck with 
 their pomp and grandeur. Upon one occasion, 
 when the pope was carried on men's shoulders 
 within St Peter's, the spectacle was very splendid. 
 The cardinals, * patriarchs, and priests of every 
 order, were in their richest attire, and the pope 
 himself wore his triple crown, studded with 
 the rarest jewels : when advancing to the great 
 altar of St Peter, with his splendid train of dig- 
 nified clergy, the sight was extremely imposing ; 
 
 * The cardinals are all elderly men, very gentlemeidike in 
 their appearance, and sufficiently consequential. The dig- 
 nity ol a future pope is not out of every countenance; one 
 ot them, in the midst of this ceremony, handed his snuff-box 
 to his brother cardinal, and with great sangfrqid eyed tlie 
 congregation through his glass. 
 
104 
 
 TEMrERATURE AND SILENCE. 
 
 SILENCE IN ST PETEr's. 
 
 105 
 
 when he ascended the altar itself, the effect was 
 still grander, but particularly on the elevation of 
 the host, when, by an opening in a curtain, a ray 
 of light was made to fall on the pope and the costly 
 dresses surrounding him. The whole of St Peter's 
 was in Mezzo shade, save that single ray, which was 
 intentionally introduced to give effect and splen- 
 dour, and certainly was astonishingly beautiful: 
 but the trick intruded a little on our minds, and 
 perhaps interfered with the unqualified pleasure 
 we should otherwise have had in beholding so un- 
 common a sight. 
 
 Notwithstanding the prodigious crowds that 
 attend these grand functions in St Peter's, I do 
 not remember ever seeing it above half filled, that 
 is to say, when the people crowded together; 
 neither have I felt any great variation of heat. 
 The thennometer in the beginning of January, on 
 a clear sunny day, outside of St Peter's, was 47, 
 and in the inside Gl degrees: on opening the 
 first and second gallery in the dome, the heated 
 air which rushes out is very perceptible, but in 
 the opening in the highest dome, the air is 
 cooler than the atmosphere. When few people 
 are within this mighty building, the silence is re- 
 markably impressive ; you see human beings, like 
 little spots, moving to and fro, but never hear 
 them. The steady flame of a single lamp in the 
 chapels adds greatly to the sentiment which this 
 
 silence inspires. In solitary places, and various 
 parts of the cathedral, individuals may be seen 
 praying. Even after service, I have observed a 
 priest withdraw from the rest and pray by himself. 
 
 5", 
 
 i 
 
 
Raphael's frescoes. 
 
 107 
 
 LETTER XLTT. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Raphael's Frescoes in the Lodges of the Vatican y and in his 
 Villa. — Epitaphs of Salvator Rosa and Claude Lorraine. — 
 Music at the Chiesa del Giesu. — Holy Staircase. — Tivolt 
 and other Towns near Rome. — Adieu to Rome, 
 
 You would certainly be disappointed if I should 
 leave Rome, without sending you some account of 
 the fresco paintings by Raphael, in the lodges of the 
 Vatican ; and that I might be the more minute in 
 my description of them, I have reserved it to the 
 last. But fate, which often interferes with my ar- 
 rangements, as well as with others more import- 
 ant, has so determined matters, that we must leave 
 this interesting city before it can be in my power 
 to fulfil my intention. This, perhaps, is the less 
 to be regretted, since you can always command the 
 beautiful prints engraved from them, which will 
 afford you a better idea of their innumerable 
 beauties, than any attempt of mine to describe 
 them hastily. In these prints, the fine compo- 
 sition, the expression, and, in a great degree, the 
 drawing, is fairly given. Yet, as prints from fresco 
 pictures are not different from prints after oil 
 paintings, notwithstanding the decided difference 
 between these two styles, you will not, of course. 
 
 be able, from the engravings, to form a correct 
 notion of the energetic expression of Raphael's 
 greatest works. They certainly have not that 
 laboured appearance which is perceptible in his oil 
 paintings ; there is a freshness of colouring, too, 
 and grandeur, (partly arising, no doubt, from their 
 great dimensions,) which his easel works never ex- 
 hibit ; nor do the best engravings convey a just idea 
 of the peculiar and ennobling character given by 
 the hand of Raphael, which, like the animation 
 that the countenance occasionally catches from the 
 soul, is too subtile to be detected, defying any 
 language to do it justice. 
 
 His fresco paintings of the Sybils, in the church 
 of St Mary of Peace, and his Galatea, in the 
 Farnesina, are likewise inexpressibly fine. For 
 the same reason that prevents me from being mi- 
 nute in my description of these great works, I must 
 not attempt to give you a detailed account of many 
 others of inferior note. I shall lead you, how- 
 ever, to his villa where he studied; in the ca- 
 sino of which may be seen several of his small 
 pictures in fresco. One of these is engraved by 
 Marc Antonio, consisting of a number of naked 
 youths shooting at a Terminus. In this casino, like- 
 wise, is a painting of Alexander and Roxana, 
 a Triumph of Bacchus, and a few Portraits 
 OF AVoMEN, supposed to have been his favourite 
 mistresses. To be in the house where Raphael 
 retired to enjoy repose, and where, perhaps, he 
 
 H 
 
108 
 
 Raphael's tomb. 
 
 MUSIC TN THE CHIESA DEL GIESU. 
 
 109 
 
 invented many of his noble compositions, and to 
 see his works on the walls of the room in which he 
 studied, impressed us with feelings of profound 
 reverence. The houses, too, of Claude Lorraine, 
 N. Poussin, and Salvator Rosa, all of which we 
 have entered, had a similar efFect on our mmds, 
 but the house and gardens of Raphael, offermg 
 so many objects to recall its once illustrious pos- 
 sessor, almost deceived us into the idea that he 
 was still alive, adorning this splendid city, and 
 elevating and improving the human mind. 
 
 The fresco paintings by Guido and Domenichi- 
 no, in the church of St Gregory, and also the 
 famous picture by the latter of St Sebastian, 
 in the church of St Mary of the Angels, the 
 latter so remarkable for exquisite colouring and 
 taste, together with many other works of the 
 greatest masters, must be passed over in silence. 
 
 [n the church of St Mary of the Angels is the 
 tomb of Salvator Rosa, on which is the followmg 
 
 inscription : 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Salvatorem lloscni NeapolUanum, 
 
 Pictorum bvi Tcinporis 
 
 Nvlli secundum, 
 
 Poetarum omnium Tcmporum, 
 
 Piincipibus Parem, 
 
 Augustus Filius, 
 
 Ilic Miicrens composuit. 
 
 Sfxagcnario minor obiit, 
 
 Anno Salftis. M. D. c. lxxoii. 
 
 Mibus Mailis. 
 
 m 
 
 The Chiesa del la S. S*. Trinita de Monte con- 
 tain the ashes of Claude Lorraine, whose epitaph 
 may be seen on a marble slab upon the floor. 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Clautlio Gillee LoLharingo, ex loco de Champagna orto, 
 Pictore eximio, qui ipsos uricntis et occidentis solis radios in 
 Campestribusmirifice pingendis eflfinxit; hie, in urbe ubi artern 
 coluit, summam laudem, inter magnates, consecutus est, obiit 
 ix. Kal. Decenib. 1682, ajtatis suae anno 82. 
 
 Johannes et Josf phus Gilke, Patrui carissimi, monuraen- 
 tum hoc bibi posterisque suis poni curaruut, 
 
 I could have wished to give you some account 
 of the music which we have heard in many of the 
 churches, especially in the Chiesa del Giesu, one 
 of the most magnificent in Rome. It is impossi- 
 ble, however, to convey any idea of such music ex- 
 cept by its effects ; and you can conceive, better 
 than I can attempt to express, the emotions of 
 mingled solemnity and transport, which made the 
 tear fall from every eye, while the divine sopranos 
 sounded triumphantly, like the voice of angels 
 amidst the grandest hannony. 
 
 When I consider how much I have yet left un- 
 told of the treasures and wonders of this interest- 
 ing city, and look around me at the same time, 
 on all that I have attempted to describe, I feel 
 how impossible it would be, without spending 
 many years in it, to comprehend, even in a cursory 
 survey, one half of the objects which are well en- 
 
 a •r"'''ll1!;il''"-» — :'«^'' -'-^ 
 
no 
 
 HOLY STAIRCASE. 
 
 CHURCH OF THE CONCEPTION. 
 
 Ill 
 
 titled to notice. Without attempting, therefore, 
 any further detail, let me inform you in one breath, 
 that we have visited the prison of St Peter ; that 
 we have touched his chains in the church of St 
 Peter in Vincoli ; that we have been on the 
 o-round where St Paul was beheaded ; that we 
 have touched the table of the last supper ; * and 
 seen the holy staircase brouglit from Pilate's Palace 
 at Jerusalem, sanctified by the feet of Jesus, t 
 
 ♦ This curious relic is e.\hibile«i in the church of St John 
 Laterano, and held by the Romans iu great vencralion. At 
 one time it was covered wilh silver, but the constable Bourbon 
 thoui^ht proper to strip it off at the sacking of Rome. The 
 board is about an inch and a half in thickness, quite black, 
 and much worm-eaten. Near this church there is an arch 
 through which, with few exceptions, persons are prohibited to 
 pass under pain of excommunication. Women especially are 
 expressly forbidden. We entered before we were informed 
 of the prohibition, which caused great alarm in our valet du 
 place. He, however, said, for our consolation, that as we 
 were foresteri (strangers) we should escape from the censure 
 of the church, 
 
 f The steps (28 in number) are, and have been more than 
 once, cased with wood. Innumerable enthusiasts and wretch- 
 ed sinners ascend them on their knees, utteiini; a short prayer 
 at every step, which affords a certain number of years of in- 
 dulgence. 1 have observed, that several of those persons 
 went up fast, others slow, according to their age or power of 
 volubility. The young people mounted easily; in general 
 they looked round at the spectators below, while they were 
 muttering their prayers, which plainly shewed that the heart 
 
 together with innumerable other singular and cu- 
 rious things. Roman antiquities of every descrip- 
 tion, both profane, as they are called, and Christian 
 abound in the museum of the Vatican : the most 
 remarkable among the former are several letter- 
 ed stamps for various purposes, which seemed so 
 obvious and important a step towards printing 
 that It is surprising it did not lead to the in! 
 vention of that invaluable art : the collection of 
 the latter contains a variety of instruments of tor- 
 ture, curious funeral glass, adorned pictures of 
 samts, amber caps, and rich can-ings in ivory &c 
 The crypt of the church of the Conception 'pre! 
 sents one of the most extraordinary sights in 
 Rome. There we may see the bodies of in^numer 
 able monks, in habits of their order, placed in 
 niches, holding candles in their hands, remind 
 mg one of the poem of Tarn o' Shanter : «' each 
 m their cauld hand held a light." The walls too 
 
 ha. nothing to do with their devotions. One huge folio,. 
 «uh a great-coat flung upon hi, brawny shoulder^ prayed 
 and mounted „uh incredible rapidity ; he had the look !>U 
 T.l.a,„,and .t.s reasonable to suppose, that he was anxious to 
 
 " "r . u T"'"'" '""" '^' '°"" "'■ --"^ -'^M deed of 
 
 at; tt '"" '"''\ ''"' ''"''-' '''^ '» *'""-' "-" 
 away. No heret.cs are allowed to go up this holy stair, even 
 
 upon the.r knees; they ascend one parallel to it. which lea 
 to the chapel of the Saviour. / 
 
in 
 
 TOWNS NEAR ROME. 
 
 ADIEU TO ROME. 
 
 lis 
 
 are covered with bones, arranged in curious orna- 
 ments. 
 
 We have visited the various towns which 
 sparkle in the distance ; delightful retreats from 
 the heat and bad air of the capital during the 
 summer months. The classical sojourn of Tivoli, 
 with its exquisite scenery ; the Sabine farm of 
 Horace ; the hospitable villa of Maecenas, and the 
 extensive ruins of the villa of Hadrian, which has 
 preserved to modern times a larger collection of 
 the sculptures of antiquity than any other Roman 
 ruins ; Frescati exhibiting splendid edifices and 
 fountains, combining with the Campagna and dis- 
 tant views of Rome, offering inimitable subjects 
 for the pencil ; Albano with its lovely lake ; the 
 melancholy Ostia, too, which only presents its own 
 grave, stretching over a great extent of country, 
 and affording to the foxes a secure retreat among 
 its ancient ruins, — furnish ample scope for medi- 
 tation. 
 
 The characteristic beauties of these well known 
 scenes it is unnecessary to detail. I have al- 
 ready, I fear, intruded too much upon your 
 valuable time, by my feeble attempts to give you 
 some idea of what we have seen since our arrival 
 in Rome. To-morrow we shall bid adieu to this 
 great city, which, though described by the poet, 
 the painter, and historian, still exhibits to the 
 eye and to the imagination new and exhaust- 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 less objects of interest. As I see her now, the 
 sun shining on her varied features, through the 
 morning mist of silvery grey, how noble does she 
 appear ! The yellow Tiber flowing from distant 
 azure scenes, derives an air of august solemnity 
 from the classical relics, which it reflects through 
 its whole course. The russet robe of Campagna, 
 too, becomes her: no vivid green, nor gaudy co- 
 louring, could so well accord with the venerable 
 ruins of this long celebrated city. 
 
 VOL. Jl. 
 
 li 
 
MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 115 
 
 LETTER XLIIL 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Journey to Naples.-^ Mount Vesuvius Ilerculaneum.^ 
 
 Pompeii— Cidlection of Paintings and Antiquities in the 
 Museum at Portki.—Goitres between Naples and Portici. 
 — Amusements at Naples, 
 
 January 1, I8I7. 
 We travelled rapidly through the Pontine marsh, 
 Terracina, Fondi, Mola de Gaeta, and Capua, 
 and reached Naples in safety. Troops are sta- 
 tioned at short intervals ; and though one dragoon 
 was shot by the robbers a short time since, the 
 road may now be regarded as perfectly free from 
 dancrer. A greater variety of exquisite scenery, 
 with the finest combination of mountains, woods, 
 rocks, noble buildings, and tranquil seas, is no- 
 where, perhaps, to be found in the same extent of 
 country. Albano, Velletri, Terracina, Mola de 
 Gaeta, and Sessa, may challenge the world for 
 beauty ; but we passed through them so hurriedly, 
 that I cannot pretend to describe them. You can 
 fully sympathize in my regret at being obliged to 
 leave such scenes, without having it in my power 
 to take the slightest sketch. The approach to 
 
 vSI 
 
 Naples is peculiarly interesting. It conjures up 
 so many associations, historical and poetical, and 
 presents so many objects to engage the curiosity of 
 the antiquary, and please the painter's eye, as can- 
 not fail to impart no ordinary pleasure to minds at 
 all prepared to view such objects in their proper 
 light. 
 
 Mount Vesuvius is so well known, that any mi- 
 nute description of it would be superfluous ; but to 
 the traveller it is by far the most interesting feature 
 in this delightful country. Though much inferior 
 to Etna, it presents to one who sees, for the first 
 time, the effects of volcanic fire, a spectacle at once 
 novel, pleasing, and terrific. I speak of the ascent 
 to the summit, for its appearance at a distance is 
 less striking than I had imagined. The mountain 
 is not above 86OO feet in height. After quitting 
 the mules which carried us for about two hours 
 over the black scoriae of many eruptions, the ascent 
 to the top of the cone (or chimney of the volcano) 
 occupied us about forty minutes. At present there 
 is a considerable stream of lava continually over- 
 flowing, and the crater is discharging incessant 
 showers of ashes and glowing stones. The pro- 
 jectile force, however, is but trifling : the stones 
 are not thrown above 200 or 300 feet in perpen- 
 dicular height. We saw the summit at night, and 
 its aj)pearance was truly awful and sublime. 
 
 Herculaneum is completely covered with an in- 
 
116 
 
 HERCULANEUM. POMPEII. 
 
 durated substance, supposed, by the Chevalier de 
 la Condamiue, to be composed " of ashes, earth, 
 gravel, sand, coal, pumice stones, and other sub- 
 stances, launched up from the mouth of the vol- 
 cano, at a time of its eruption, and fallen down 
 all around it. These at first buried all the build- 
 ings, and afterwards by dejjjrees got into the in- 
 side of them by their own weight, and the drift 
 of winds and rain, and lastly, by the falling in of 
 the roofs and floors. This mixture, clung toge- 
 ther by the infiltration of water, became condensed 
 by time, forming a kind of sandstone, more or 
 less hard, but easily penetrable.'* Penetrable as it 
 is, however, its removal has cost incredible trouble -, 
 indeed, the process of excavation has been found 
 so difficult and tedious, that it is for the present 
 relinquished. We were led through the corridors 
 to the orchestra of a theatre by torch light. 
 
 Pompeii, which was entombed in a softer sub- 
 stance, is getting daily disencumbered, and a very 
 considerable part of this Grecian city is unveiled. 
 We entered by the Appian way, through a nar- 
 row street of marble tombs, beautifully executed, 
 with the names of the deceased plain and legible. 
 We looked into the columbary below that of 
 Marius Arius Diomedes, and perceived jars con- 
 tainins: the ashes of the dead, with a small lamp 
 at the side of each. Arriving at the gate, we per- 
 ceived a centry-box, in which the skeleton of a sol- 
 
 10 
 
 POMPEII, 
 
 117 
 
 dier was found with a lamp in its hand : proceeding 
 up the street beyond the gate, we went into several 
 streets, and entered what is called a cofFee-house, 
 the marks of cups being visible on the stone : we 
 came likewise to a tavern, and found the sign (not 
 a very decent one) near the entrance. The streets 
 are lined with public buildings and private houses, 
 most of which have their original painted decora- 
 tions fresh and entire. The pavement of the 
 streets is much worn by carriage wheels, and holes 
 are cut through the side stones, for the purpose of 
 fastening animals in the market-place ; and in cer- 
 tarn situations are placed stepping stones, which 
 give us a rather unfavourable idea of the state of 
 the streets. We passed two beautiful little temples ; 
 went into a surgeon's house, in the operation room 
 of which chirurgical instruments were found ; en. 
 tered an ironmonger's shop, where an anvil and 
 hammer were discovered ; a sculptor's and a baker's 
 shop, in the latter of which may be seen an oven 
 and grinding mills, like old Scotch querns. We ex- 
 amined likewise an oilman's shop, and a wine shop 
 lately opened, where money was found in the till ; a 
 school in which was a small pulpit with steps up to 
 it, in the middle of the apartment ; a great thea- 
 tre ; a temple of justice ; an amphitheatre, about 
 2^0 feet in length ; various temples ; a barrack for 
 soldiers, the columns of which are scribbled with 
 their names and jests j wells, cisterns, seats, tricli- 
 

 118 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 POMPEII. PORTICI. 
 
 119 
 
 I 
 
 niums, beautiful Mosaic ; altars, inscriptions, frag- 
 ments of statues, and many other curious remains 
 of antiquity. Among the most remarkable objects 
 was an ancient wall, with a part of a still more an- 
 cient marble frieze, built in it as a common stone ; 
 and a stream which has flowed under this once sub- 
 terraneous city, long before its burial ; pipes of 
 Terra Cotta to convey the water to the different 
 streets ; stocks for prisoners, in one of which a 
 skeleton was found. All these things incline one 
 almost to look for the inhabitants, and wonder at 
 the desolate silence of the place. 
 
 The houses in general are very low, and the rooms 
 are small, I should think not above ten feet high- 
 Every house is provided with a well and a cistern. 
 Every thing seems to be in proportion ; the principal 
 streets do not appear to exceed 1(5 feet in width, with 
 side pavements of about 3 feet ; some of the subor- 
 dinate streets are from t> to 10 feet wide, with side 
 pavements in proportion ; these are occasionally 
 high, and are reached by steps. The columns of 
 the barracks are about 15 feet in height ; they are 
 made of tuffa with stucco : one third of the shaft is 
 smoothly plastered, the rest fluted to the capital. 
 The walls of the houses are often painted red, apd 
 some of them have borders and antique orna- 
 ments, masks, and imitations of marble, but in ge- 
 neral pooriy executed. I have observed, on the 
 walls of an eating room, vaiious kinds of food and 
 
 game tolerably represented ; one woman's apart- 
 ment was adorned with subjects relating to love ; 
 and a man's with pictures of a martial character. 
 Considering that the whole has been under ground 
 upwards of seventeen centuries, it is certainly sur- 
 prising that they should be as fresh as at the 
 period of their burial. The whole extent of the 
 city, not one half of which is excavated, may be 
 about four miles. It is said that Murat employed 
 no less than ^000 men in clearing Pompeii, and 
 that Madame Murat attended the excavations in 
 person every week. The present government have 
 not retained above 100. 
 
 After visiting this extraordinary place, which 
 certainly is the most interesting of all the wonders 
 of Naples, we examined the museum of antiquir 
 ties at Portici. The collections of ancient paint- 
 ings are curious and instructing, some of them con- 
 taining exquisite pieces of art ; one room is filled 
 with representations of fruit and flowers, well 
 painted and freely handled ; some grapes in par- 
 ticular are remarkable for execution, quite trans- 
 parent, with the touches of light on them judi- 
 ciously placed to give effect and clearness. A 
 second room contains various ornaments painted 
 in a masterly manner, and with considerable in.- 
 genuity in the design. A third is covered with 
 various animals and birds. Another apartment is 
 filled with landscapes, but these are all extreme- 
 

 w 
 
 uo 
 
 MUSEUM AT PORTICI. 
 
 MUSEUM AT PORTICI. 
 
 121 
 
 ly bad, having no perspective, nor any truth of 
 colouring ; indeed, it would seem that the ancient 
 painters had never given their mind to that de- 
 lightful branch of the art. One landscape, how- 
 ever, with all its faults, interested nie greatly, and 
 that was a view of ancient Puteoli, (now Puzzuolo,) 
 about six miles from Naples, supposed to have been 
 painted before St Paul landed there. The picture 
 is, of course, very different from the present state 
 of the city, but still a likeness may be traced, if 
 we keep in view the site of the various temples 
 and other objects, the foundations of which are 
 still visible. Among the innumerable pictures which 
 are crowded in several rooms, I shall mention the 
 following, which, on slight examination, appeared to 
 be among the best : Sophonisba drinking the 
 JUICE OF Hemlock, admirable in expression : An 
 Infant Hercules strangling Serpents: Jove: 
 Leda and the Swan : The Graces : A Venus: 
 Education of Bacchus : A Medusa's Head : 
 — these are all slight, but it is that slightness which 
 conveys character and refinement of taste: A 
 Theseus as large as life, in a fine attitude and 
 good expression : Two alli gorical figures, repre- 
 senting the river Nile and Egypt : The Edu- 
 cation OF Achilles : A Beautiful Female 
 SUCKLING AN Aged Man, (corresponding to the 
 Roman Charity,) most delicately expressed : An 
 Academy of Music, the figures bmall, exquisitely 
 
 pamted ; harps and flageolets are the only instru- 
 ments. Among the curious pictures is the in- 
 terior of a school, in which the master is repre- 
 sented flogging a boy, who is upon another boy's 
 back ; so that the practice of horsing is sanctioned 
 by very ancient authority. Our attention was like- 
 wise attracted by a shoemaker's and a cook shop • 
 these la.t are but indifferently designed and paint! 
 ed ; a Wilkie or an Allan would smile at such 
 productions. All these are in fresco, on stucco 
 grounds, and with a considerable polish on the sur- 
 face. It does not seem that any glazing colour 
 have been used, the eflFect being produced entirely 
 by body colour. The ancients, however, as Pliny 
 mforms us, had a dark yet transparent mixture, 
 which they laid over their highly finished works, 
 to give the delusion required. From the freshness 
 and clearness of the colouring, they seem to have 
 the advantage of painting in oil, so far, at least, as 
 durability is of advantage. 
 
 The museum at Portici likewise contains many 
 statues and busts of considerable merit ; besides a 
 great variety of culinary articles, and specimens of 
 calcined bariey, beans, paste for bread, part of a 
 rol mustard.seed, straw, rye, pine tops, figs, doth 
 like tinder, fish, nets with cork attached to them 
 spunge, soap, rings, ear-rings, combs, thimbies! 
 looking-glasses of polished metal, and a variety of 
 emblems of luxury and taste, admimbly executed 
 
122 AMUSEMENTS AT NAPLES. 
 
 We examined them all with the keenest interest, 
 thou-h the impression would have been more gra- 
 tifyin^g, had they been left in the ancient towns in 
 which they were discovered. 
 
 Returning to Naples from Portici, we saw three 
 instances of women with goitres, a circumstance 
 which greatly surprised us. Fiorin grass is not 
 uncommon, but it is not cultivated in the fie Ms. 
 
 To the west of Naples is the tomb of VirgU ; 
 the Isle of Nisida, where Brutus took his last 
 farewell of Portia •, Puteoli, where, as mentioned 
 in the Acts of the Apotles, St Paul landed from 
 Rec^ium, in his way to Rome, and where he found 
 Christians even at that early age ; the Sybils' Lave, 
 Lake Avernus, Cuma, the exquisite Bay of Baia;, 
 with the islands Ischia and Capri ; and the Elysian 
 fields, still appropriated to the mansions oi the 
 dead The ancient villas of the luxurious Romans 
 lie scattered along this delightful shore, with the 
 remains of amphitheatres, temples, and baths. Sol- 
 faterra, a scarcely extinguished volcano, still smokes, 
 and the phenomenon of Monte Nuovo, thrown up 
 in a single night about 80 years ago, and now co- 
 vered entirely with vines, remains to attest the 
 wonders of volcanic power. 
 
 A passion for play seems to be the prevailing 
 yice of the Neapolitans, and masquerading* is the 
 
 AMUSEMENTS AT NAPLES. 
 
 12.3 
 
 i 
 
 fashion of the day. At the Academla, where all 
 strangers of respectability are admitted free, there 
 is a dancing assembly twice a-week, wiih rouge 
 et noire and cards. The opera warbles and glittere 
 in the theatre of San Carlo, one of the most splen- 
 did in Europe, • after which, during the Carnival, 
 the house is filled with masks, dancing, and play.' 
 The lovely bay, as smooth and clear as a High- 
 land lake, reflects a vast variety of gay and pleas- 
 ing objects. Pffistum lies onward to the south 
 about 60 miles, in a plain partly surrounded 
 with noble mountains, and is one of the finest 
 combinations of pillared ruins that antiquity has left 
 us ; It is an excursion of three days to visit it and 
 return. In my next letter I shall give you some 
 account of our journey thither, and of those very 
 magnificent remains. 
 
 pozzolana earth. I „,„.,, houever, mentbn one .lisoust. 
 
 .no pn,cucc which characterize, the Neapolitan masquera.les. 
 
 and that .s, the people c.ns.antly pr-.trudir.g their ,„,.,ues 
 
 through the.r .na.ks. Some of the Cart.i.al dances, uith the 
 
 c»sta„et and labour, are expressive of considerable elegance 
 
 and superior to an> sin.iiar amusement «e have se, n in Rome' 
 
 Kach pe.sonhasaseat «i,h arms to rest upon, and a' 
 
 .cket ,s 2,ve„ at the entrance of the pit, wth the ..umber of 
 
 we scat which he is to occupy. 
 
 . The masquerading in the principal street is not unl.te 
 thai i« the Corse at Rome, with the exception of ihrow.ng 
 
LETTER XLIV. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Journey to P. Uum^ Character ofihe Ten>Ples.-Returni>^ 
 Naples-Statues in the Studii.-Ant,,uU.s.-P*ctures^ 
 pipyri or Herculaneurn MSS^Departure/rom Naples. 
 
 Naples, Sth February. 
 Ik our journey to Piestum we passed through Ter- 
 ra del Annunciata, Cava, Salerno, and Lbbol., and 
 found the scenery fully equal to any we have seen 
 in Italy ; partaking of every character from the 
 beautiful to the grand and picturesque. No country, 
 indeed, exhibits greater charms for the pamter. 
 SalvatJr Rosa obtained some of his choicest sub- 
 jects among the wild, yet noble mountam-v.ews 
 if Cava. For my own part, the tempUng compo- 
 sitions. beautified with the a.ure a.r and smdmg 
 sun of Italy, almost overpowered me : my eye w s 
 never idle, but, unfortunately, the hasty mode m 
 which we were obliged to travel, would not penmt 
 the individual scenes to make a lastmg impression 
 on the mind. Like deligbtful visions, they just ap- 
 peared and fled, yet doubtless enriching the imagma- 
 tion by their endless variety. In general the coun- 
 ty between Naples and Ebboli is well cultivated 
 
 t 
 
 JOURNEY TO P.ESTUM. 
 
 125 
 
 'fi 
 
 with various grain, but chiefly Indian com. No divi- 
 sion ef property appears. The whole country seems 
 to belong in common to all. The peach, apricot 
 and almond, were in blossom, and the golden oran- 
 ges and citrons sparkled on the trees ; every bird 
 was singing, and, as I thought, new tunes, their 
 little pipes being quite unknown to me. 
 
 The peasantry were often in the strangest dress 
 and reminded us of the prints in Robinson Crusoe • 
 their coats and breeches being made of goafs skin 
 with long siiaggy !,air ; to this strange attire was 
 ad.ied a brown conical hat, and sandals in place of 
 shoes. In one instance we observed a horse a 
 mule, and an ox. in the same cart. Beans were 'in 
 blossom. (5th of February.) and in many places 
 were cut as a green crop. 
 
 Ebboli, which stands on the acclivity of a hill 
 commands the bay of Paastum, and is itself a noble 
 feature in the scenery. Wealth, comfort, and clean- 
 iness, however, are not to be found within its walls; 
 the jaundiced countenance, and the unsettled eye 
 of misery, only command our sympathy. Thir- 
 teen robbers had just been taken, and were upon 
 their way to Naples. At Ebboli we learned that 
 the road to Pastum was infested with banditti • 
 after coming so far, however, we were not to be* 
 intimidated. We advanced, and, I must confess. 
 «ere suddenly appalled at finding on the road, in 
 a lonely wood, a recently murdered corpse. Con- 
 
126 
 
 TEMPLES AT ILESTUM. 
 
 TEMPLES AT P^STUM. 
 
 127 
 
 suiting with ourselves for a moment, and examin- 
 ing the strength of our party, we resolved to pro- 
 ceed upon our journey, and entered an exten- 
 sive uncultivated plain, overgrown with myrtle, 
 violets, and aromatic plants, wasting " their fra- 
 grance in the desert air." Some houses were 
 scattered in the wilderness, but all of them were 
 tenantless : this description of country contmued 
 the whole of the way to Paestum. 
 
 When the lonely temples first appeared in their 
 field of desolation, they did not strike us as noble ob- 
 jects; but when we approached nearer, and advanced 
 close up to them, they soon realized our most san- 
 guine expectations. The simple dignity of the Do- 
 ric order was irresistibly striking, and we could not 
 but confess, that, though these structures are small 
 in dimensions, they inspired us with higher ideas of 
 grandeur than any building we had yet seen. The 
 palaces in Florence, even St Peter's itself, or the 
 Coliseum, notwithstanding their enormous size, 
 did not convey such a pure conception of strength 
 and dignity. The sentiment which they excited 
 we felt^as new to us, owing, I should think, to the 
 daring severity of style, or the just proportion of 
 everyVrt towards the expression of eternal dura- 
 tion. They are three in number; the temple 
 of Neptune, the temple of Ceres, and a Basilica 
 for the administration of justice. The temple of 
 Neptune, which is by much the finest and most 
 
 entire, has six columns in each front, and fourteen 
 on each side. These rest on a basement of three 
 steps, surrounding the temple ; the pediment is 
 massive and high. 
 
 The temple of Ceres, which appeared somewhat 
 smaller, had likewise six columns in front, but 
 only thirteen on each side. The Basilica has 
 n-ne pdlars in front, and eighteen on the flank, 
 which, like those of the other temples, are placed 
 on steps. The shafts of the columns of this last 
 edifice are greater in the swell, and more bulky in 
 appearance. 
 
 Perinisi's engravings give the best representa- 
 tions of these ancient structures, and I think will 
 prove that the expression of strength and grandeur 
 does not depend upon enormous magnitude, if the 
 component parts of buildings (even should they be 
 small) are massive and distinctly seen. Within the 
 walls, winch are three miles in circuit, are likewise 
 the remains of an amphitheatre and a theatre, and 
 these, with the temples, are all that time has left to 
 remmd us of the ancient Grecian city of Posldonia 
 where, if we may judge from the architecture I have' 
 just described, a general and noble taste must 
 have prevailed. Who, after examining such ex 
 aniples of purity, will not agree with a well known 
 writer, m hoping that this « precious legacy, be- 
 queathed by the first born, and most favoured sons 
 of taste, may finally triumph over the degraded sub- 
 
 m I 
 
128 
 
 STUDII AT NAPLES. 
 
 STUDII AT NAPLES. 
 
 129 
 
 stitution, compiled by the modern architects, and 
 that we may soon see it appropriated m all pub. 
 lie works of a severe and dinmihed character? 
 
 On our return to Ebboli for the night, we per- 
 ceived the murdered corpse still lyin^ on the road 
 and discovered that he was supposed to be killed 
 in a quarrel by his companion. Passing through 
 Portici. we observed written over the door of a 
 church, •' Here is no asylum," (meaning for people 
 guilty of atrocious deeds :) and most sincerely .t 
 were to be wished, that the same words were wnt- 
 ten over the entrance of every place of worship m 
 the Catholic dominions. 
 
 Naples at present is not a school or cnidle of 
 art. which is consequently lower and more degrad- 
 ed here, than in any other considerable city m Italy. 
 Tliere are, however, several private collections of 
 paintings : at the Capo de Monte, likewise, and m 
 the churches, may be seen some of the works of the 
 best mastes. In the Studii there is a small col- 
 lection of pictures, and some admirable statues of 
 rare antiquity. The famous Hercules appears 
 pre-eminent, and is well entitled to the society of 
 the lovely Flora, who accompanied him to Naples 
 from the Farnese Palace in Rome. Juso, magni- 
 ficent and grand, is a companion fit for Jove akd 
 jIter Immon. The statues of Bacchus are 
 likewise excellent, as also several Gladiators and 
 .tatues of the Balbo tamily. The noble statue oi 
 
 AujSTiDEs THE JusT exhibits a superiority over 
 the Declaiming Cicero. The Venus has charms 
 too great for Apollo. He is better suited for the 
 Muses, some of whom are replete with character 
 and beauty. The exquisite statue of Agrippina, 
 sitting in a pleasing natural attitude, is without a 
 rival ; she is so lady-like ; the finger of age has 
 gently pressed upon her, and gives an additional 
 interest to her engaging countenance. 
 
 The collection is very great, and is particularly 
 rich in busts. Those in transparent alabaster have 
 a bad effect, nor can I admire the mixture of red 
 porphyry and white marble in a figure of an Apol- 
 LO, nor slaves with black heads and hands, and 
 drapeiy of the colour and appearance of Castile 
 soap. It is indeed surprising that the ancient sculp- 
 tors, whose taste was in general so correct, should, 
 in many instances, have adopted so unseemly a 
 style. 
 
 The collection of Greek Vases in the Studii is 
 considerable, and many of them are of exquisite 
 forms. Those discovered at Pompeii are all of a 
 common description, and much inferior to the vases 
 found in Sicily and Calabria. These precious 
 remains are often imitated by modern potters, 
 and the unskilful are occasionally imposed upon 
 by the imitation. The ancient Vases are infinite- 
 ly lighter in weight than those of recent manu- 
 facture. They likewise resist the action of acids, 
 
 TOL. IT, r 
 
 I '; 
 
 J 
 
 r 
 
 
180 
 
 PAPVKI IN HERCULANEUM. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM NAPLES. 
 
 131 
 
 which is not the case with the former ; and by this 
 difference imposition is often detected. The room 
 of Bronzes contains many singular antiques ; we 
 were particularly struck with a stop-cock of a bath, 
 still containing water, which it had received near- 
 ly 2000 years ago. 
 
 The pictures in the studii are but indifferent. 
 \ Madonna in fresco by Correggio; a Study for 
 A Holy Family ; a Portrait of a Pope, and a 
 Single Head, by Sebastian del Piombo; a Car- 
 toon by Raphael, called the Ufposeof Moses, ni 
 a grand style, also a large Cartoon said to be by 
 Michael Angelo; a fresco sketch of figures by Po- 
 lidoro ; a picture by Parmigiano, and the Sacking 
 OF Rome, by Julio Romano, are among the best: 
 those by Sebastian del Pionibo are painted on 
 blackish grey grounds, and have a dark and dismal 
 
 The unfolding of the Papyri discovered at Her- 
 culaneum is extremely curious and hiteresting. 
 From tlie frailty of the material, the process is ex- 
 tremely slow : perhaps not more than half an inch 
 is unfolded at a time, and is fixed upon gokUbeat- 
 er's leaf. In appearance, the Papyri might be 
 mistaken for parts of calcined branches of trees, 
 the circular folds seeming like the growth of the 
 wood. In looking at these black and indurated 
 masses, it requires an effort to believe them to be 
 full of human knowledge. The number of the 
 
 . u 
 
 rolls is very great ; only two volumes of them, 
 ho.vever, have as yet been published ; the last con- 
 taius fragments of a work of Epicurus, and a Latin 
 I poem in hexameters, very much mutilated, appar- 
 
 ently descriptive of the contest for empire between 
 Anthony and Octavius. In the next volume will 
 be published a treatise of the philosopher Chrysip- 
 pus concerning Providence. I believe there was 
 found rolled up in his works a bust inscribed Epi^ 
 cunis, which may, perhaps, form a standard fbr 
 identifying the different heads of that philosopher. 
 - We are now about to set out for the Continent 
 of Greece ; but the weather is so unfavourable for 
 a sea voyage of any extent, and there are so many 
 objections to trusting ourselves in the month of 
 February to the Adriatic, beyond what is abso- 
 lutely necessary to our plans, that we have deter- 
 mined to travel from this city to Otranto, if, upon 
 mquiry here, we should not find it to be impracti- 
 cable. The little infonnation we could collect, re- 
 sixjcting this route, while at Rome, was far from 
 satisfactory. We heard of many difficulties in pei^ 
 forming the journey, and here they were swelled 
 into perils, such as our Neapolitan friends urged 
 It mere rashness to encounter. We have, however, 
 been long enough in Italy to know how much the 
 Italians magnify the dangers of travelling in their 
 country, having had more than one opportunity of 
 ascertaining how little reliance is to be placed ou 
 
132 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM NAPLES. 
 
 the axjcounts of murders and robberies, which our 
 informers solemnly asserted to have occurred at no 
 great distance. On applying for information con- 
 cerning the places through which we are to pass in 
 our journey, at the bureaus of the public offices here, 
 we have been disappointed. A very extraordinary 
 degree of ignorance appears to prevail with regard 
 to the interior, although Lecce, which lies upon our 
 route, is the secondcity in the continental dominions 
 of the King of Naples, with a population of '20,000 
 souls, and a considerable trade. There is a diligence, 
 indeed, as far as Bari, and there, as well as at 
 Otranto, are English vice-consuls, not indeed Eng- 
 lishmen, but Italians, as little acquainted with the 
 language as with the feelings of the British. To 
 these we have letters of introduction from Su' 
 Henry Lushington, our consul-general at Naples, 
 and notwithstanding the many difficulties, doubts, 
 and dangers, we have fixed our departure for an 
 early period, and if we are successful, shall sail 
 from Otranto to the Ionian Islands, and, after exa- 
 mining them, proceed to the Continent of Greece. 
 
 LETTER XLV. 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 Journey to Otranto^ 
 
 AVe left Naples on the night of 15th-l6th of Fe- 
 bruary, having sent our baggage in a ship of war 
 returning from Naples to Corfu, so that we retain- 
 ed little to excite the cupidity of the banditti we 
 were assured we should meet with before we reach- 
 ed Otranto. We have seen a country seldom visit- 
 ed by Englishmen. The first day's journey lay 
 through defiles of the Apennines, full of the 
 
 ♦ Our journey to Otranto lay through the following towns: 
 —From Naples to .Marigliano, Cardinalle, Avelli^o, Den- 
 tecane, Grottaminarda, Ariano, (first day's journey.) From 
 Ariano to Savignano, Ponte di Bo?ino, Ordona, Cinignola, 
 S. Cassano, liurletta, Biscaglie, Giovenazzo, Bari, (second 
 day's journey.) From Bari to Mola, Monopoli, (third day's 
 journey.) From Monopoli to Fasano, Ostuni, S. Vito, (fourth 
 da/s journey.) From St Vito to Mesagne, to Celina, Lecci, 
 (fifth day's journey.) From Lecci to Martano, Otranto, 
 (sixth day's journey.) In all not above 255 miles. 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 Mi 
 % 
 
13 i 
 
 AUIANO. 
 
 BRIDGE OF BOVINO. 
 
 135 
 
 grandest scenes, romantic villages, and castel- 
 lated mountain tops. The hills were covered with 
 brushwood, and the vallies with vines; yet the 
 people are wretched, and though not, perhaps, 
 naturally vicious, are driven to the highway by ex- 
 treme want. Our heavy lumbering diligence was 
 always escorted by a couple of gens d'annes. 
 
 After the pass of Cardinalle, we enter on a more 
 open country, exhibiting more of corn cultivation. 
 Several large populous villages are seen glittering on 
 the summits of the distant heights, but none is more 
 singularly situated than Ariano, (where we passed 
 the first night,) pinnacled on a mountain top, its 
 sides cut into deep ravines, with various chains of 
 mountains, ridge above ridge, and extensive plains 
 between, stretching into the distance as far as the 
 eye can reach. The bleak and wild appearance 
 of this mountain-track, forcibly recalled the fea- 
 tures of Highland scenery. The soil is volcanic, and 
 volcanic appciirances extended through the great- 
 est part of our day's journey. The hill on which 
 the town Ariano is built is wholly composed of 
 tufFa. We perceived that the dwellings of the poor 
 were dug in it, and these were not uncomfortable in 
 appearance ; they were similar to the excavations of 
 the same material in the neighbourhood of Naples. 
 This country has, at different periods, been greatly 
 desolated by earthquakes. 
 
 We left Ariano early in the morning, and arrived 
 
 at the bridge of Bovino, near which the Apennines 
 terminate, and the country becomes tame and open. 
 The bridge of Bovino, and its neighbourhood, we 
 had been warned at Naples to dread as infamous 
 from the depredations of banditti : there was ano- 
 ther reason for apprehension,— it was the tennina- 
 tion of the good road. A former king of Naples 
 had caused a royal road to be constructed from 
 Naples to Bovino, for the sake of the fine sport- 
 ing which the forest of Bovino afforded. At the 
 bridge we were informed that the troops stationed 
 there had been employed, all the preceding night, 
 in the chace of the banditti of the neighbourhood* 
 and wtre too fatigued to supply a guard fbr the di- 
 ligence. We discovered, however, that the ob- 
 ject was to induce us to give money to the officer 
 for a guard, and we therefore determined to 
 proceed without one. From the bridge we drove 
 under a large vaulted archway into the body of 
 the house ; from this opened four large apart- 
 ments, like barns, supported by coarse pillars, with- 
 out any other entrance than that by the arched 
 gateway. The two farthest of these barns were 
 occupied by mules and carts ; the third had a trap- 
 door in the middle ; the fourth was a dark and dis- 
 mal place, without any light, but that afforded by a 
 feeble fire, which glimmered on a raised hearth in 
 the centre. The whole was like a den of thieves. 
 Varior.s figures stood around ; and as our eyes be- 
 
 ,1 
 
 
136 ROAD FROM BOVINO TO BARLETTA. 
 
 came accustomed to the smoky atmosphere, \vc 
 discovered other groups and strange faces in the 
 remoter corners of the chamber. The day was 
 cold, and some soldiers came in to wann them- 
 selves. One of them appeared feeble and emaciat- 
 ed, and apparently in the last stage of decline ; 
 he came forward with more respect than the rest ; 
 we noticed him, and placed him near the fire, and 
 gave him a little money and food. W hile we were 
 observing his wan countenance and feeble limbs, we 
 overheard a bystander inquire, if the English were 
 Christians ? " Yes !" continued he, " they must 
 be so, from their humanity to that poor man : we 
 Neapolitans are worse than Turks." 
 
 Our late guard quitting us at the bridge, we pass- 
 ed through this country, so dreaded by the Neapo- 
 litans, without attack or even alarm, and soon gained 
 the plains of Puglia, the ancient Apulia. We travel- 
 led long without meeting with any interesting ob- 
 jects. In general the country towards Burletta is 
 flat, or rises gently into extensive downs. The agri- 
 culture is different from that in the rest of Italy, 
 Large and neatly built farm establishments occur ; 
 fields of wheat, of perhaps '200 acres together, 
 and wide tracks of pasture land. The towns 
 are open, airy, and well built ; very different 
 from the miserable post-house of Bovino. We pass- 
 ed the field of the battle of Conrad, and the Ofan- 
 to, the ancient Aufidus, before arriving at Barlet- 
 
 BARLETTA. BAR I. 
 
 137 
 
 ta, a considerable town on the Adriatic Gulf. From 
 this town there is an export of corn, which suffi. 
 ciently accounted for the improved state of the 
 country between Barletta and Bovino. 
 
 The country in the neighbourhood of Barletta 
 andallthewaytoBari, assumes a new character! 
 The substratum of the soil is limestone, which is co 
 vered with a finely pulverized red, to the depth of 
 about a foot. Grapes, olives, wheat, lupins, and fruit 
 trees, especially figs, are cultivated with great care. 
 The fields are inclosed with dry stone walls; and 
 the houses which are numerous, though in general 
 very small, and universally flat roofed, have a 
 very lively appearance from their extreme white- 
 ness, m the midst of the fresh green of the fields 
 and orcJiards. 
 
 Bari has an imposing appearance from a dis- 
 ance; .t as populous, though not in proportion 
 to the s,ze of the town : the principal exports are 
 0.1. and some raw cotton. Like the other towns 
 of th>s part of the country, it stood a siege in 
 the middle age ; it had even at one period a Sa- 
 racen garrison, which was commanded by an Ara- 
 bmn Lmir, but surrendered to a grandson of Char- 
 lemagne AVe found lying in the port a vessel 
 for Corfu w,th Capo d'Istria. brother to the Rus- 
 Man m.„.ster. on board. We might have had a 
 passage with him. but the necessity of submitting 
 to a quarantine of fourteen days deterred us from 
 
h; 
 
 138 
 
 FROiM BARLETTA TO MONOPOLI. 
 
 MONOPOLI. 
 
 J 89 
 
 taking advantage of his offer. The Italian, wlio 
 bore the title of Vice Consul, lived in a hovel 
 by the sea side. He, and the host of the little 
 inn vvhei;e we took up our abode, endoavoured to 
 alann us with their assurances of the number of 
 banditti close to the town, and the accounts of 
 their depredations upon travellers : we were, how- 
 ever, inflexible in our determination to set out, and 
 proceeded, accordingly, the next morning, in a mi- 
 serable kind of covered carriage. 
 
 The road, if road it may be called, was such as no 
 man in Britain would think practicable almost for a 
 horse. Thirty miles a-day was all that we could ac- 
 complish ; and for the greater part, we found it more 
 convenient to travel on foot. The road to Monopoli 
 lies chiefly along the sea shore : the hills run pa- 
 rallel, about six or eight miles inland, and almost 
 the whole country is covered with olive, of the 
 growth probably of 500 years : they are all pollards, 
 and have stems like old willows, but as large and 
 as grotesque as the oaks of Sherwood Forest : 
 some of these look more like blocks of grey granite 
 than trees ; so entirely have they lost the appear- 
 ance of vegetable life, except where the young 
 branches spring. This forest of olives continues, 
 with few interruptions, for nearly 100 miles. The 
 hills are clothed with vineyards and corn growing 
 under them. 
 
 In this route we carried our provisions along 
 
 with us, dining under an olive tree, or among wild 
 aromatic flowers. On arriving at Monopoli, we 
 immediately went to market, and bought our pro- 
 visions ; such as kid, cauliflower, fish, figs, and 
 wine. The latter is excellent all along this coast. 
 The best is red, and not unlike our Port, and 
 costs about 2d. a flairiron. 
 
 The little town of Monopoli possesses much 
 external magnificence. Domes, spires, and mi. 
 narets, rise above its bastions and flanking walls ; 
 but every thing is in miniature. The streets are 
 narrow and extremely clean, crowded, however, 
 with wretched beings, old and young, in whose 
 pale and sickly countenances all the diseases in- 
 cidental to want are too legibly written. They 
 flocked about us in crowds, as, indeed, the innu- 
 merable living skeletons did in every town ; and 
 a small sum, divided among them, gave a tempo- 
 rary gladness to many a heart. They bought and 
 devoured greedily a large species of white bean, 
 which is kept ready boiled in the streets as food 
 for the poor. We have seen them picking bits of 
 decayed lettuce and offal from the dunghills, and 
 devouring it with avidity ! 
 
 Leaving Monopoli, along a road in many places 
 liedged with luxuriant opuntia, (the Indian fig,) we 
 travel on for a time through olive groves, and 
 then along the coast, which rises here into sandy 
 hillocks, covered with bent-grass. Our notice 
 
HO 
 
 EGNATIA— SAN VITO. 
 
 MASAGNE. 
 
 was here directed to a neat farm-house, from which 
 the Algerines, about a year ago, carried off by 
 surprise three of the inhabitants. Tlie character 
 of the coast is lonely rather than wild, and the 
 ruins of the ancient Greek city of Egnatia, its 
 broken citadel, the circuit of its walls, only indicat- 
 ed by heaps of stones, and one low arch, are quite 
 in harmony with the scene. We learn from a 
 modern inscription, that it was once famed for its 
 fisheries, olives, orchards, and commerce. It can- 
 not now boast of a single living thing, but the 
 lizard, the serpent, and the liooded-crow 1 
 
 We dined in a beautiful olive grove, within view 
 of Ostuni, which stands on an elevated ground, en- 
 riched with the foliage of the olive : the monotony 
 of these groves is sometimes relieved by the locust 
 tree, and^he date-palm. From the locust is pro- 
 duced the caruba, similar to a large bean pod, flat, 
 brown, and sweet, having much of the flavour of 
 the tamarind. In times of scarcity it is used by 
 the poor in Rome, Naples, and the south. Our 
 day's journey was to San Vito, but our veturino 
 avoided the Ostuni road, as it was said to be in- 
 fested by brigands. 
 
 You will smile at our having actually beat up 
 the quarters of St Vitus ; but we had no reason 
 to smile: for a long time we were doubtful 
 whether the town would attbrd us beds for the 
 night, and some of us fared hardly enough. The 
 
 141 
 
 f 
 
 inn, as it was called, was without provisions; and 
 had it not been for the contents of our basket, 
 we should have had nothing to eat in the town of 
 the " dancing saint." One of our party solicited 
 and obtained a bed at a convent, but when he pro- 
 ceeded to occupy it, he found the filth so disgust- 
 ing as to induce him to resign it. There are 
 several convents and paltry churches in this town, 
 all dedicated to St Vitus. 
 
 By the break of morn we left San Vito ; the 
 sun rose in splendour above the snowy moun- 
 tains of Albania, and we hailed in distant pro- 
 spect the classic land of Greece. The mountains 
 of Chima^ra, and the famed Acroceraunus, were 
 mingled with the clouds ; but as we approached 
 Otranto, they gradually assumed the form the 
 grandeur, and livery of the Alps. We now 
 cross over extensive downs, covered with flocks 
 of goats and sheep. • The latter are of various 
 shades and colours, black, brown, and grey ; and 
 the cloth of the country is made of the undyed 
 wool. Leaving the town of Masagne, and its 
 hedges of American aloe, and a pretty villao-e a 
 little farther to the south, we enter into an exten- 
 sive plain, stretching to the horizon on every side 
 and entirely in a state of nature. Nothing meets 
 
 • The sheep in appearance are so like goats, that I sus- 
 pected there must be a crossing of the different species. 
 
14^2 WILDERNESS 01' AROMATICS CRLLINO. 
 
 the eye but interminable thickets of vvihl aromatic 
 plants. Here flourish lentiscus, privet, myrtle, 
 muchia, and the dwarf laburnum ; around the 
 taller arbutus grow wild lavender, sage, rosemary, 
 the squill, and the garden thyme. The euphorbia 
 was unfolding its luxuriant yellow flower. A 
 variety of rich heaths emulated in size their more 
 aspiring neighbours ; anemonies and other flowers 
 bespangled the green sward below. We observed 
 many flower stalks of the aloe, not less than thirty 
 feet in length ; when in full blow, it is certainly 
 the most superb of flowers. * Through them we 
 worked our way for several hours, sometimes on one 
 track and sometimes on another, for there is no re- 
 <Tular road till we again entered among ancient 
 olives, and arrived at Cellino, a beautiful village, 
 in a still more beautiful country. God has done 
 everything, but man nothing. Three hours 
 after leaving Cellino, we reached the commercial 
 town of Lecce, which, I have already obseiT- 
 ed, is the second city of the kingdom of Naples. 
 In the streets, which are narrow, may be found 
 every Greek and Roman order, and every Go- 
 thic corruption. The sculptor's art is facili- 
 
 • The binls m«st conoiwon are the crow, kite, ringtail 
 hawk, cuckoo, goldfinch, chaffinch, ma^^,pie, blackbird, thrush, 
 red -breast, plo?er, lapwing, a lew snipe and wjld pigeons, 
 blue and small. 
 
 I.ECCE. 
 
 143 
 
 tated by the softness of the stone. Many of the 
 ornaments are turned in a turning lath for a mere 
 trifle ; consequently the poorest people continue to 
 have ornamented houses. Immediately after being 
 taken from the quarry, the stone may be cut with 
 a knife ; it is said, however, to become so hard in a 
 few days, as almost to resist the chisel ; and 
 where plainness has been intended, the weather has 
 worn it into vermicular forms like madrepore. 
 The rustic appearance of the lower stones of some 
 of the public buildings in England, may have been 
 imitated from this fancy work of nature. The 
 churches and principal houses are sculptured in 
 the richest style, with birds, flowers, animals, and 
 angels. The balconies are supported by brackets, 
 finely and fancifully ornamented. Every perverl 
 sion of taste and torturing of simplicity may be 
 seen m the streets of Lecce, - but with all its cor- 
 ruptions, an architect would find much to admire 
 and perhaps to imitate. 
 
 This city once carried on an immense trade in 
 oil and wine, and was the great storehouse of 
 Eastern Calabria. It still has all the bustle and 
 activity of commerce. It is much to be regretted 
 
 * Tlie equestrian statues we saw are not larger than life- 
 they consequen.ly have a very dimi.mlive and insignificant 
 appearance at a short distance. Such statues, to have a com 
 manding effect, should ahvavs he colossal. 
 
Uh 
 
 LECCE TO OTRANTO. 
 
 however, for the sake of the population, that the 
 olive and the vine should usuq) the soil, to the ex- 
 clusion of grain. The cultivation of these leaves 
 much idle time on the hands of the peasant, which 
 corn-agriculture would profitably fmploy. This 
 idleness does infinite mischief to morals, and when 
 an unfavourable season occurs, encourages crime, by 
 adding the impulse of necessity to the want of 
 principle. This, I am persuaded, is a principal 
 cause of those frequent robberies which are said to 
 take place ; though certainly they are much exag- 
 gerated by the timidity of the Italians. If the people 
 were more courageous, these depredations would 
 be more frequent, for the olive harvest has failed 
 in three successive years, and the necessities of the 
 lower classes are extreme. 
 
 From Lecce to Otranto the distance is 28 miles. 
 The fields are divided with stone walls ; the stone 
 appears to be an aggregation of stalactites. The 
 agriculture is not good, but the barley was hi the 
 ear. The Greek village of Kalimara struck us, 
 as greatly resembling the ancient city of Pompeii. 
 We stopped for refreshment at the village of Cer- 
 pignano, and for Is. 4d. had as much bread, 
 cheese, and excellent red wine, as seven people re- 
 quired ; here we observed that weights were made 
 
 of rude stone. 
 
 The country towards Otranto becomes desolate 
 and bare, extensive downs covered with thyme, with 
 
I 
 
 CASTLE OF OTRANTO. 
 
 145 
 
 occasionally the dwarf holly, the Rosa marina, and 
 lavender, stretch around like wild moorlands. The 
 Lake i^lemenie, on the left, varies a little the mo- 
 notony of this district, but nothing is seen of 
 Otranto till we drop upon it unexpectedly. 
 
 It is a i)oor looking town, situate on an elevated 
 projecting point, between two small bays, and is waU 
 led and mounted with cannon. Finding, on our ar- 
 rival, that there was no inn, we sent for the British 
 vice-consul, who lodged us in the house of an Italian 
 marquis. We laid down our beds, which we bor- 
 rowed, in a large damp and comfortless apartment, 
 without furniture of any sort, and in another 
 squatted ourselves around a pan of charcoal. Dur- 
 ing the nights we were disturbed, and most of us 
 kept ileepless, by the swarms of musquitos and fleas, 
 the room having probably not been visited by a 
 broom, during the time of the present generation 
 of the noble proprietors of the palace. 
 
 The celebrated castle of Otranto is an imposing 
 object of considerable size. It owes all its reputa- 
 tion in England to the interesting romance of that 
 name. I have made drawings of it from every point 
 of view, not omitting the court yard, where the 
 gigantic helmet appeared. The gateway is parti- 
 culariy splendid, and has a dignified and chivalric 
 air, as indeed has the whole building. Some palm 
 trees, which are opposed to the aged and crumbling 
 walls, had a fine effect, and heightened the senti- 
 
 VOL. II. V 
 
CASTLE OF OTRANTO. 
 
 145 
 
 occasionally the dwarf holly, the Rosa marina, and 
 hivender, stretch around hke wild moorlands. The 
 Lake Aleinenie, on the left, varies a little tlie mo- 
 notony of this district, but nothing is seen of 
 Otranto till we drop upon it unexpectedly. 
 
 It is a poor looking town, situate on an elevated 
 projecting point, between two small bays, and is wal- 
 led and mounted with cannon. Finding, on our ar- 
 rival, that there was no iini, we sent for the British 
 vice-consul, who lodged us in the house of an Italian 
 manpiis. We laid down our beds, which we bor- 
 rowed, in a large damp and comfortless apartment, 
 without furniture of any sort, and in another 
 squatted ourselves around a pan of charcoal. Dur- 
 ing the nights we were disturbed, and most of us 
 kept sleepless, by the swarms of musquitos and fleas, 
 the room having probably not been visited by a 
 broom, during the time of the present generation 
 ol the noble proprietors of the palace. 
 
 The cclebiated castle of Otranto is an imposing 
 object of considerable size. It owes all its reputa! 
 tion in England to the interesting romance of that 
 iiauie. 1 have made drawings of it from every point 
 of view, not omitting the court yard, where the 
 gigantic helmet appeared. The gateway is parti- 
 cularly splendid, and has a dignified and chivalric 
 air, as indeed has the whole building. Some palm 
 trees, which are opposed to the aged and crumbling 
 walls, had a fine effect, and heightened the senti- 
 
 VOL. 11. jf 
 
146 
 
 OTRANTO. 
 
 ment inspired by the romance and the building it- 
 self. 
 
 Otranto, though a miserable place to live in, 
 (having been lately scourged by famine,) affords 
 some excellent subjects for the pencil, such as a 
 Gertin would have painted upon the spot, or Blore 
 would delineate with scrupulous accuracy. The 
 principal church, with its round Gothic window, 
 and some houses near it, with their brackets, balus- 
 trades, and rich friezes, are most attractive objects. 
 We entered the church during the time of service, 
 and saw the corpse of a man lying with his com- 
 mon clothes on. In the crypt below, which is 
 very ancient, are two curious marble columns, 
 said to have been brought from the Holy Land ; 
 the shafts are richly covered, and have inscriptions 
 from the Sacred Writings. 
 
 The Inquisition is not abolished in Otranto, but 
 its pains and punishments, as in other Catholic 
 countries, are inflicted for opinion, and not for acts 
 of violence. The magistrates have little power. A 
 person cannot be apprehended on suspicion of rob- 
 bery or murder : this might possibly interfere with 
 the privileges of the sanctuary of the church. Sad 
 consternation prevailed while we were there, about 
 some robbers that were lurking in the neighbour- 
 hood of the town. They were even seen and point- 
 ed out to our party by the governor, who took no 
 measures to apprehend them ; and more villanous- 
 
 OTRANTO. 
 
 147 
 
 looking fellows, ray friends informed me, could not 
 be seen. When I returned to our palazzo, having 
 separated at an early hour from my companions, my 
 appearance was a welcome sight to the magistrates, 
 who were consulting with my friends what steps 
 should be taken, being apprehensive that I might 
 have been attacked, while I was sketching the 
 castle at some distance from the town ; as it seems 
 it was only single persons that the ruffians ventur- 
 ed to rob. The governor was urged strongly to 
 have them arrested, which he promised to do, upon 
 further consultation with his friends the clergy. 
 
 The harbour of Otranto is not so good as some 
 of the other ports on the Adriatic, in the King 
 of Naples' dominions, but it serves as a shelter in 
 bad weather. Happily for us, a vessel with corn 
 from Brindisi was compelled to put in by stress of 
 weather, and we agreed with the Greek captain 
 and his crew (for in the Greek vessels it is usual 
 for each of the sailors to have a share in the ship) 
 to take us to Corfu, whither he was bound. 
 
 Before embarking, having some time to write, I 
 shall supply a few slight omissions which I have ob- 
 served in this letter. It is not a little remarkable, 
 that, in all the distance from Barletta to Otranto, 
 about 130 miles, we crossed only a single paltry 
 stream. The substratum is entirely lime, and almost 
 wholly mixed with marine shells, the oyster, the 
 cockle, and scallop, but none of an antediluvian de- 
 
I 
 
 148 COUNTRY FROM BARLETTA TO OTRANTO. 
 
 scription, like those in France, or on the Apennines. 
 The soil is thin but rich ; to make it produce as it 
 does, the dews must be extremely heavy during the 
 summer heats. To supply the deficiency of water, 
 tanks, or underground reservoirs, have been built 
 in very ancient times, and are still kept up with 
 the most anxious care. Into these every little 
 spring is turned, and the rain water preserved. 
 Tlie houses all along the coast are built of square 
 blocks of limestone, which they procure soft and 
 of a chalky whiteness : it forms a cement when 
 mixed with earth, without being burned. * The 
 country houses are all inclosed in walls, and se- 
 cured with a strong gate, as a precaution against 
 Italian robbers, or more properly against the pira- 
 tical incursions of the Algerines. The roofs, for 
 the most part, form a flat terrace, and above this a 
 sort of watch-tower or look-out is frequently con- 
 structed. 
 
 The people are well-bred and respectful ; they 
 wear full large great-coats, and the taper-crown- 
 ed hat, and were always, when we met them in 
 the country, provided with fire-arms. AVe saw 
 few women, and those very plain and unhealthy, 
 
 * VVc admired the beauty of many of the chimneys, espe- 
 cially in the towns ; like those in Florence and Rome, the 
 variety was without end, and often gave a consequence to the 
 poorest dwelling. 
 
 COUNTRY FROM BARLETTA TO OTRANTO. 149 
 
 perhaps from poverty and bad food. The mode 
 of travelling is remarkable; the saddle is made 
 with brackets of wood, so as to form a seat on 
 each side of the horse, like two conversation stools; 
 we tried it, and found it very comfortable and 
 commodious. Among the vines the hoe is the 
 instrument in use: at this season, the earth is 
 collected into pyramidal heaps, and the roots laid 
 almost bare. The vine is cut within two feet of 
 the ground, and the excellence of the produce 
 shews the utility of the practice. In the north 
 of Italy, where the vines are trained in sweepino* 
 fe>toons from tree to tree, the wine is almost in- 
 variably thin and acid. On the evening of the 2 1th 
 of February we embarked, attended by the con- 
 sul to the water side. 
 
LETTER XLVl. 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 Voyage to Corfu,— Albanian Shore.— Vie-w in approaching 
 Corju.— Arrival at Corfu — Hospitality of Sir Thomas 
 Maitland, Governor-General.— U is Character, 
 
 The vessel in which we toolc our passage was in 
 quarantine, and our interview with the captain, 
 while making our bargain, took place on tlie open 
 shore, under the superintendence of a guard from 
 the health office, who, with his wand, kept us at 
 such a distance from each other, iis to prevent con- 
 tagion. The captain was placed about eight feet to 
 leeward. At present all persons coming from the 
 Ionian Islands perform a quarantine of twenty-eight 
 days. The recent plague at Corfu and Cephalonia 
 seem to justify the measure. On the other hantl, 
 there is a retaliatory quarantine of ten days on all 
 vessels from the coast of Calabria, in consequence 
 of the appearance of pestilence last year in the 
 
 town of Noja. 
 
 We embarked in the evening, and as the night 
 was chill, we stretched ourselves on the wheat 
 with shut hatches. About midnight we were 
 aw^akened by the violent pitching of the boat ; a 
 
 ALBANIAN SHORE. 
 
 151 
 
 storm Iiad come on, and the waves had several 
 times come over us, and forced their way into the 
 hold, through the loosely joined hatches. The 
 morning found us drifting up the Adriatic under 
 a foresail, with the Acroceraunian promontory un- 
 der our lee, which the ancients describe as so fatal 
 to mariners. We passed repeatedly between it 
 and the Island of Saseno, and cast anchor in two 
 feet water, at a few miles distance from the 
 town of Canina, and at least eighty to the north of 
 Corfu. We were now in the territory of Ali 
 Pasha, from which, at Corfu, there is a quaran- 
 tine of thirty days. It was necessary, therefore, 
 to avoid all communication with the natives, and 
 we ventured on shore, not without apprehension 
 of some accident which might unintentionally in- 
 volve us in some disagreeable predicament. The 
 day, however, was inviting, and though we did not 
 go beyond the small headland, under which our bark 
 lay, we enjoyed, nevertheless, a very interesting 
 view of the romantic region before us. On the 
 S. E. the great bay of Avlona, bounded by the 
 Acroceraunian promontory, and the Chimariote 
 mountains, disappeared into the country among 
 fine mountain scenery, snow-capped like the Alps! 
 To the north of our little cape lay a spacious hol- 
 low bay, inclosed like a lake, with a large and 
 beautifully wooded island, and a monastery em- 
 bowered. Innumerable wild fowl, particulariy coots, 
 
152 
 
 ALBANIAN SHORE. 
 
 lined the margin, or skimmed upon the surface, 
 which was perfectly calm. This is a famous fish- 
 ing-station, and several fishing-boats from the 
 island resort hither annually, and pay for the pri- 
 vilejie. We counted at one time six pelicans se- 
 curing their share of the finny spoil. The high 
 mountain of the Sopra Canina, as the Italians call 
 it, rises nobly off* the town, and at the foot, a for- 
 tification belonging to AH Pasha. Here Ali 
 Pasha was taken prisoner in his youth by the 
 Pasha of Avlona, and mercifully spared. He 
 repaid this act of mercy, by possessing himself of 
 the Pachalic, by the united means of treachery and 
 
 arms. 
 
 The rocks around our station were composed of 
 a sandstone curiously stratified, and of different 
 degrees of hardness. High round knobs and pro- 
 minences were left by the waters, worn into very 
 fantastic shapes, and perforated like madrepore. 
 Albanians on horseback passed us frequently at a 
 short distance. They were the first we had seen, 
 and partly on account of quarantine, and partly 
 from other considerations, we did not feel disposed 
 to hold any communication. 
 
 In the course of the day, we were a little sur- 
 prised, and not quite at ease, on seeing two horse- 
 men with large turbans and flowing robes, gallop 
 their horses into the sea close to our bark, and 
 remain some time in conversation. We found. 
 
 APPROACH TO CORFU. 
 
 153 
 
 however, that they were only two Greek merchants, 
 making inquiries relative to trade. In the even- 
 ing we re-embarked with a fair wind for Corfu, 
 and had a strong and steady breeze during the 
 night. 
 
 " Morn dawn?, and with It stern Albania's bills. 
 Dark Sul i's rocks and Pindus' inland peak, 
 Rob'd balf in mist, bedew'd with snowy rills, 
 Arrayed in many a dun and purple streak, 
 Arise, and as the clouds along them break, 
 Disclose the dwelling of the mountaineer." 
 
 f 
 
 Before us lay Corfu stretching to the right, and 
 in the same direction, and nearer to Otranto, rose 
 the small rocky islands of Merlera and Fano, the 
 latter supposed by some to have been the Island 
 of Calypso, and so, indeed, denominated in D' An- 
 ville's map of Greece. We drove along with a 
 strong fresh wind and fine sunshine, through the 
 narrow channel which divides Corfu from Epirus, 
 passed Casiopo, where stood the Temple of Jupi- 
 ter in ancient times, and on the opposite side the 
 advancing shores of Butrinto, when the woody and 
 variegated shores and hills of Corcyra, forming 
 the western boundary of an extensive bay, ex- 
 panded before us. The grand mountains of 
 Albania, and the more distant coast of Greece, re- 
 ceding to the south, uniting to the eye with the 
 castellated rocks of the city, and fortified Island 
 
154 
 
 SI,R THOMAS MAITLAND, 
 
 SIR THOMAS MAITLAND. 
 
 155 
 
 of Vido, presented a combination of objects, no less 
 interesting than delightful. 
 
 We landed at the health office, and a small adjoin- 
 ing house within the precincts of* the office, and in- 
 closed with palisades, was allotted for our residence 
 during our days of quarantine. In the evening 
 notice was sent, that our quarantine would expire 
 on the following morning. After our introduction 
 to the Governor-General, Sir Thomas Maitland, 
 we were invited by his excellency to dine with him, 
 and an apartment was provided for us in the pa- 
 lace. We remained there about ten days, and no- 
 thintJ" could exceed the kindness of Sir Thomas 
 Maitland. He lives in a princely style, and is no 
 less remarkable for his rigid economy of the pub- 
 lic revenue, than for acts of private munificence. 
 To a wiser head or a nobler heart, the interests of 
 Great Britain in the Grecian islands could not be 
 intrusted. He is admired, beloved, and feared. 
 The former sentiment is general, and he is only 
 feared by those who apprehend the detection of 
 some sinister scheme of private gain at the public 
 expence. Three things he cannot endure, — in- 
 trigue, injustice, and thanks. To all who have 
 deserved his confidence, his attachment is perma- 
 nent and growing. He possesses, in a very un- 
 common measure, that penetrating sagacity which 
 discovers, almost at a glance, the whole character 
 of those with whom he has occasion to act j— a 
 
 lit 
 
 quality of inestimable value in the situation which 
 he fills, among a people distinguished by artifice, 
 ability, and absence of moral principle. He has a 
 deep knowledge of jurisprudence, and a thorough 
 acquaintance with policy and trade ; — an excellent 
 lawyer, without the technicalities of a special 
 pleader, and a statesman, nearly divested of party. 
 The islands profess the fullest confidence in his 
 integrity, capacity, and firmness. He began by 
 studying, most attentively, for upwards of a year, 
 the disposition and character of the leading men of 
 the Septinsular Aristocracy. This directed him 
 in the choice of the primary council, from whom 
 the new constitution was to receive its first sanc- 
 tion. The eleven members of this council are a 
 constituent part of the legislative body, which is 
 composed of forty persons, and will naturally have 
 considerable influence over the remaining twenty- 
 nine, who are to be elected in a fixed proportion 
 from the ** Sincliti " of the different islands. These 
 Sincliti are the noblesse, possessing a certain qua- 
 lification, and enrolled and dated under the con- 
 stitution of 1803. Hence the government has 
 been hitherto purely aristocratical. But the most 
 important benefit which British supremacy will 
 confer on these islands, will be in purifying the 
 administration of justice, which has been, and still 
 is, shamefully corrupt ; and Sir Thomas Maitland, 
 as the courts of Malta evince, is admirably quali- 
 
156 
 
 SIR THOMAS MAITLAND. 
 
 fied for the task. The national character itself 
 may receive a radical and even rapid reform. The 
 Greek succession of masters, the instability of the 
 government, and the ignorance of the governors, 
 opened every situation to the assaults of political 
 intri<me, artifice, and misrepresentation. Among 
 an ingenious people, these vices are carried to an 
 extreme. But when no longer available under 
 an enlightened government, these arts will cease to 
 be employed, and the public character will regain 
 a more upright and a finer carriage. Already has 
 the Lord Commissioner abashed duplicity and in- 
 trigue, and infused a relish for fair and honour- 
 able dealing, by his own perfect candour, open- 
 ness, and consistency. He has possessed himself of 
 the hearts of the people, by the wise measures which 
 he is adopting to shield them from the intolerable 
 tyranny of the noblesse, and the venality of justice; 
 and he has gained the admiration of the noblesse, 
 by his noble candour, at the same time that his 
 commanding talent has overawed their understand- 
 ing. They see now no refuge but in honesty. A 
 new and happy era has commenced, and we may 
 hope it will draw after it important and fortiuiate 
 results. 
 
 LETTER XLVIL 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 Cify of Corfu.^ Castradis.^Cotta^e of the Governcr-General. 
 —Ship of U{ys.ses,^General Appearance of the Island,^ 
 Ullage of Potamo.-^Viexij from the Mountain of St Sal- 
 mdor.^BalLu^Laxity of Morals.^ Aristocracy divided 
 into Russian ahd English Parfies,^Assassinations,^Su. 
 perstftions and Immoralily of the People.-^Events in the 
 Ancient History of Corcyra. 
 
 When we left the Lazaretto, we were particular- 
 ly struck with the variety of nations and costumes 
 mingling in the streets,— Greeks, Turks, Alba- 
 nians, Italians, British soldiers, officers and their 
 wives, and I may add English T. G's. (travelling 
 gentlemen,) each distinguishable by the air, dress, 
 or occupation, characteristic of the individual and 
 the country. The city of Corfu is of considerable 
 extent, the houses two and three stories high, the 
 streets narrow, with small arcades on eac^h side. 
 The military esplanade is spacious and open, com- 
 manding extensive views in front of the palace 
 and fortifications ; and behind the palace are two 
 high conical rocks, flike those of Dumbarton Cas- 
 tle,) projecting into the sea, and strongly fortified. 
 
 ^Sk w^ 
 
158 SIR THOMAS MAITLANd's COTTAGE. 
 
 After the taking of Candia in I67O, the Turks 
 besieged the castle of Corfu for five years, and 
 were at length defeated, when on the eve of suc- 
 cess, by an unexpected and desperate sally from 
 the garrison by night. Austria, Italy, and Hun- 
 gary, aided the Venetians in repelling this ob- 
 stinate and long protracted siege. On the land 
 side, the French have thrown up most laborious 
 and expensive works ; much too extensive to be 
 defended by any force which Great Britain would 
 employ, except in very particular circumstances, 
 for such an object. Corfu would require for that 
 purpose at least 10,000 men on this line. A 
 little to the south of the city lies the village of 
 Castradis, the site most probably of the ancient 
 city of Corcyra. In cuttiug the fosse, quantities 
 of broken pottery and marble were found, and 
 nearer the surface, and of course more recent, frag- 
 ments of Roman tessellated pavement ; farther on, 
 large blocks of marble, with joints and capitals, 
 and columns, lie in heaps together. In the vil- 
 lao-e, a little Greek church is pointed out as occu- 
 pying the site of an ancient temple of Janus. Sir 
 Thomas Maitland's cottage lies about a mile farther 
 towards the one gun battery, in a most romantic si- 
 tuation, full of classical interest and natural beauty. 
 On one side is the Grecian continent; the view in- 
 land, embracing what is called the old harbour, 
 stretches over a country varied with mountains and 
 
 GENERAL ASPECT OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 159 
 
 valleys richly clothed ; olive groves, among which 
 picturesque villages are partially concealed, or dis- 
 played on rocky eminences, and mountain slopes ris- 
 ing above the forest. The forms of the mountains 
 are peculiarly graceful, and the richness of the 
 whole scenery recalls those views of the islands in 
 the Pacific Ocean, with which the engravings in 
 Cook's voyages have so often delighted me. At 
 the entrance to the old harbour is the rock called 
 the Ship of Ulysses, represented by Homer as a 
 perpetual monument of the wrath of Neptune, 
 when he found that Ulysses had escaped the storm. 
 
 " The God arrests her with a sudden stroke, 
 And roots her down, an everlasting rock." 
 
 By the way, it bears not the least resemblance 
 to any thing in the nature of a ship, ancient or 
 modern. But Homer thought otherwise ; and this 
 evidence will satisfy nine-tenths of our modern un- 
 believers in the truth of Christianity. 
 
 We made several excursions into the country ; 
 it is every where full of beauty, but the olive sadly 
 prevails, to the exclusion of corn cultivation. A 
 change in this particular would introduce indus - 
 try and abundance together, and would make Corfu 
 equally independent of Turkey and Russia for its 
 deficiency of bread-corn. 
 
 In one of these excursions to the top of Mount 
 Pilica, I was struck with the resemblance of the 
 
 '««(^W«V 
 
160 GENERAL ASPECT OF THE ISLANDS. 
 
 island to the blade of a sickle, which its ancient 
 name Drepane implies. The country on this side is 
 low, rich, and wooded, but in great need of drain- 
 age, and hence the malaria is very prevalent and 
 fatal : great numbers die annually of the fever 
 which it occasions. Orange and lemon orchards 
 arc numerous over the island ; and at this season 
 they were loaded with golden fruit, though so 
 early in the spring. The olive woods beneath 
 were enamelled with wild flowers, " Iris all hues," 
 and anemonies of every shade, from the deepest 
 purple to the palest damask. Heaths of uncom- 
 mon size and richness bloomed among the rocky 
 clefts. 
 
 " Thro* every season blooms the tender rose, 
 The shelterM vi'let here for ever blows, 
 Anil wintry suns, with more ihaii vernal power, 
 Mature the fiuit, and court the opening flower." 
 
 Farther west of the ancient city was probably 
 the garden of Alciuous, so beautifully described in 
 the Odyssey. 
 
 (f 
 
 Close to the gate a spacious garden lies, 
 From storms defended and inclement bkies, 
 Tall thriving trees confess the fruitful mould, 
 The reddening apple ripens here to gold. 
 Here the blue fig with luscious juice overflows. 
 With dteper red the full pomegranate glows, 
 The branch here bends beneath the weighty pear, 
 And verdant olives flourish round the year ; 
 
 MOUNTAIN OF ST SALVADOR. l6i 
 
 The balmy spirit of the western gale, 
 " Eternal breathes on fruits, untaught to fail," 
 The same mild season gives the blooms to blow, 
 The buds to harden, and the fruit to grow." 
 
 This might be a literal description of any gar- 
 den in this delightful island. On the opposite 
 shore of the large salt water lake, called the Old 
 Harbour, is supposed to exist the fountain Cressida, 
 where Ulysses presented himself to Nausicaa, the 
 daughter of Alcinous. It emits a copious stream, 
 which turns a mill a few hundred yards from its 
 source. An ugly white parapet props a foot-path 
 above it, and destroys the quiet and retirement of 
 the spot. In other respects, it corresponds suf- 
 ficiently with Homer's account. 
 
 The village of Potamo, with its hi^h church- 
 tower, embosomed among hills tufted with olive, 
 is a pleasing object, and the old Venetian port, 
 now in disuse, with the buildings going to ruin, pos- 
 sesses considerable beauty. Before leaving Corfu, 
 we made an excursion partly by water to the top of 
 St Salvador, a high mountain twelve miles to the 
 north of the city. Early in the morning we 
 landed our boat on a sandy beach at the foot 
 of St Salvador. The ascent by the village of 
 Ceres occupied nearly three hours. The clouds 
 alternately rose and descended, but just as we 
 reached the monastery on the summit, they dis- 
 solved in a heavy shower, and the sun bursting 
 
 VOL. II. r 
 
 ■^g^^SrW^^^''^ 
 
162 
 
 MOUNTAIN OF ST SALVADOR. 
 
 forth, lighted up the whole scenery around. 
 We looked down upon the narrow channel that 
 separates Corcyra from Albania, as on a river. 
 Old Buthrotum and its lake lay a little inland ; 
 and beyond, the snow-covered mountains of Ki- 
 mara and Pindus, with many vales between, 
 streaked with golden gleams and broken clouds, 
 hunc on their varied forms, and seemed to dwell in 
 scen'^es wild, majestic, and unknown ; and, as far as 
 we could judge, the scenery of Epirus appeared to 
 equal any painting of the fancy. To the north 
 lay the petit district of Avos, the Hadnatic Sea, 
 and the Island of Calypso. To the south and 
 South-east the rich scenery of Corfu, the Islands 
 of Paxo, Cephalonia, and Santa Maura, like dis- 
 tant clouds on the blue waters of the Ionian Sea. 
 We rung the bell of the convent, the only sound 
 that broke the silence of this mountain solitude. 
 A poor oldGreekmonk attended us from the nearest 
 village, to shew the chapel and relics of his wretch- 
 ed convent, and to receive a small and hard earned 
 gratuity. The whole mountain, indeed all the 
 island, is calcareous, and in many places composed 
 of marine shells. The strata is vertical, full of 
 air holes, and frequently of a green and vitnhed 
 appearance. Below the conical summit is a long 
 flat ridcre, broken and uneven, with innumerable 
 little patches of black earth bearing Turkey corn, 
 and each from 40 to 100 yards in breadth. 
 
 BALL. 
 
 163 
 
 W6 passed in our way down through the thickets 
 of wild myrtle, arbutus, valony, and bay, with 
 vast numbers of wild flowers quite unknown to me. 
 Passing a beautiful village with its terraces and 
 groves of orange, lemon, cypress, and olive, we 
 found it difficult to scramble through the brush- 
 wood, and the dry channels of torrents. We reach- 
 ed the shore near a sweet country-box, the owner 
 of which came out to welcome us with flowers, 
 violets, orange blossoms, &c. Sir Thomas Mait- 
 land, with his yacht, was ready to receive us, and 
 when we came on board, we found such a feast of 
 fish, as a London epicure would go far to enjoy. 
 It was the produce of a few hours fishing, and con- 
 sisted of 80 red mullets, soles, eels, John Dories, 
 with the sea scorpion, and the calamara or ink fish ; 
 appetite was not wanting, and the porter, cham- 
 pagne, and maraskina, might have served for a 
 banquet of the gods. 
 
 A few days after our arrival, we had a splendid 
 ball and supper at the palace ; the ladies were 
 numerous and well dressed, but in the French 
 taste. * They were not in general handsome, 
 though among them were one or two that might 
 
 • At a former ball, or entertainment, which I believe was 
 the first given to the natives by the Governor, the ladies were 
 attired in Greek dresses, and must have been infinitely more 
 interesting in their appearance. 
 
164. 
 
 LAXITY OF MORALS. 
 
 RUSSIAN AND ENGLISH PARTIES. 
 
 165 
 
 m 
 
 be called beautiful. The ladies of the islands are 
 much secluded. In Corfu, however, the French 
 introduced a considerable change in manners, 
 and unfortunately in morals too, which here, and, 
 indeed, throughout the seven islands, are extremely 
 lax. A sort of agreement is not unfrequent, by 
 which a young woman is made over by her parents 
 to her admirer (her own consent being first ob- 
 tained) at a stipulated sum. Tlie usual sum is 
 ^00 dollars, and a small provision for life. This 
 species of concubinage frequently terminates in 
 marriage, when the girl is respectable, and there 
 happen to be children. It produces, at the same 
 time, much infidelity in the married state. The 
 society of Corfu was chiefly military, and at the 
 general's ball, almost all the gentlemen were m 
 uniform, except the members of the primary coun- 
 oil : they were for the most part intelligent Greeks. 
 French, Italian, and English, were the medium 
 of conversation ; but Romaic, a barbarous Greek 
 dialect, is the language of all the islands, as well as 
 of the Continent of Greece. Several of the Greek 
 nobility speak English tolerably well. 
 
 Among the number was one very noted cha- 
 
 racter. Count A • the richest nobleman of Ce- 
 
 phalonia. During the imbecility of the Russian 
 government, he headed a party, and having de- 
 feated his adversaries in a battle, he in one morning 
 decapitated twenty-three of his prisoners. The 
 
 bloody proscription of Sylla and the triumvirate difFer 
 from this butchery in nothing, but in the quantity 
 of civil blood which those monsters shed to their pri- 
 vate revenge. Count A is regarded as a kind 
 
 of political curiosity. We may judge by this exam- 
 pie, what should be the value of a strong and up- 
 right government among such a people. 
 
 The aristocracy is divided into two parties, — the 
 Russian and the English. The Russian at first 
 threatened to be formidable, having at its head 
 Count Capo dTstria, the father of the favourite 
 minister of the Russian Emperor. But the Count 
 is too old to be very active, and the declarations of 
 Alexander have held out no encouragement. The 
 able management of the Lord High Commissioner 
 has left this party without hope. In the forma- 
 tion of his primary council, he prudently intro- 
 duced a few of the most violent of the Russian 
 party, well knowing that this violence would dis- 
 gust their associates in the council, and produce 
 opposition, and that, if he should obtain their con- 
 currence in his plan of the constitution, it implied 
 the acquiescence at least, and perhaps the appro- 
 bation, of the party. He has found them, I be- 
 lieve, as tractable as the rest ; but though unfelt 
 under his firm, conciliatory, and powerful control, 
 the party might not improbably be revived, should 
 any event emerge favourable to their views. Russia 
 is a mere pretext ; their real object, as I conceive. 
 
166 
 
 ASSASSINATIONS. 
 
 being independence on other powers, in order that 
 they may tyrannize at home. But the natural 
 weakness and position of the Ionian islands, and 
 all their past history, demonstrate, that they must 
 ever be an appendage of some more powerful state ; 
 powerful at sea, and able to protect them as well 
 
 as to command. 
 
 The similarity of religion (the Greek Church) 
 may indeed produce a sympathetic preference in 
 fevour of Russia ; but I should think this circum- 
 stance is of no account. It is now in contemplation 
 to make the Greek the Established Church. This 
 point being secured, they can wish for nothing more 
 from Russia, on the score of conformity of faith. 
 Heretofore, the Catholic has been on the same foot- 
 ing as the Greek Church, and has subsisted in 
 pe'rfect harmony with its less orthodox rival. In 
 both, the ceremonial would seem to comprehend 
 everything. The fasts, particularly those of the 
 Greek Church, are rigidly observed by the lower 
 ranks, but morality and true religion, reverence 
 towards God, and love to man, seem almost un- 
 known. Private revenge had been carried to a 
 most flagrant excess. In Zante. immediately pre- 
 vious to our occupation of that island, sixty persons, 
 in six months, were assassinated in the streets. 
 Each family had its deadly feuds; when one family 
 came to the city, others were obliged to retire to 
 their estates to avoid the dagger or the pistol of 
 
 SUPERSTITION AND IMMORALITY. I67 
 
 the hired assassin. If any man in Cephalonia 
 
 was offensive to Count A a hint was sufficient. 
 
 At a convenient time he was quietly dispatched. 
 
 The trade of the islanders was piracy, robbery, 
 and murder on the seas. But conscience was al- 
 ways quieted by the severity of their fasts. I have 
 heard it mentioned, that when one of Count 
 
 A 's myrmidons once came to acquaint him 
 
 with an assassination, and was ordered dinner, he 
 absolutely refused to taste animal food, because it 
 was the season of the fast. Far be it from me to 
 think, or to say, that either the Greek or Roman 
 ritual countenances such crimes ; but it is neverthe- 
 less my firm opinion, that all religions, which ascribe 
 the chief merit to ceremonial observances, are in 
 that proportion unfavourable to moral conduct. 
 In the multiplicity of sacraments, offerings, fasts, 
 processions, external forms, and ostentatious pa- 
 rade, the religion of the heart is forgot. It is not 
 rare, I have been told, for people to frequent both 
 churches, to profess both creeds, and to alternate 
 between them, according to caprice. Indifference 
 is the consequence. At present, among the high- 
 er ranks, there is very little religion, but plenty of 
 superstition and parade. The body of St Speridioa 
 IS a source of considerable gain to a noble family 
 in Corfu, to whom it belongs. He is carried in 
 grand procession through the streets, and worship, 
 ped on bended knees as he passes along. St Cara- 
 
168 
 
 ANCIENT HISTORY OF CORCYRA. 
 
 ANCIENT HISTORY OF CORCYRA. 
 
 169 
 
 lambro patronizes the island of Paxo ; St Jerassimo, 
 Cephalonia ; and St Dionysio, Zante ; they are all 
 saluted with discharges of artillery, and the vulgar 
 are taught to believe in the efficacy of their inter- 
 cession. The plague at Corfu was declared to 
 have been stayed by St Speridion. The rigorous 
 military police of Sir Tliomas Maitland was on that 
 occasion a most powerful auxiliary to the samt. 
 Even the patents issued by the health office bear to 
 be " in the name of God, and by the intercession 
 of St Speridion," &c. 
 
 But 1 have detained you so long with these dry 
 details, that by this time you will be glad to change 
 the scene, and visit the remaining islands. I shall 
 therefore reserve some important particulars, rela- 
 tive to agriculture, commerce, revenue, &c. for a 
 future letter. 
 
 CoRCYRA was celebrated for having been the 
 island on which Ulysses is represented in the Odys- 
 sey as having been entertained by Alcinous, king 
 of Phaeacia; as the place where Cato and Cicero 
 met after the battle of Pharsalia ; and where Cato, 
 after having entreated Cicero to take the command 
 of the last legions which remained faithful to the 
 republic, separated from him to lose his lifeatUtica, 
 while Cicero went to lose his head to the trium- 
 virate ; as being the place to which Aristotle w as 
 once exiled J as having been visited by the youthful 
 
 Alexander ; as the place where the tragical nup- 
 tials of Anthony and Cleopatra were celebrated ; 
 as the place where Agrippina touched, bringing 
 from Egypt the body of the murdered Gemianicus 
 in the midst of winter, Corcyra was a great naval 
 power, and drew the Athenians into the war with 
 the Lacedemonians, and their allies, called the 
 Peloponnesian war, which lasted 27 years, and ter- 
 minated fatally for Athens, which was reduced to 
 subjection by the Lacedemonians. 
 
 
x_^ 
 
 LETTER XLVIII. 
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 Islands of Paxo and Zante, 
 
 From the Island of Corfu, we embarked in a fine 
 armed schooner belonging to the government, and 
 passed southward between Corfu and the coast of 
 Albania, which here is deeply indented with bays 
 and promontories. We observed some large vil- 
 la^res at a distance from the shore, backed by 
 high mountains of a brown parched appearance. 
 The southern point of Corfu is low and rich, but 
 very unhealthy. We lay too off Parga, and in the 
 night had violent squalls : about day-break three 
 water-spouts fell around us. To make the most 
 of a foul wind, we ran into the beautiful bar- 
 hour of St Gajo, the capital of the little wooded 
 Island of Paxo. The town is wholly concealed by 
 two small inlets ; the outer having a ruined church, 
 and part of an ancient Cyclopean wall ; the inner 
 IS hiiih, and surmounted with a modern fort and 
 barrack. Sailing up a deep and narrow sound be- 
 tween limestone rocks, tufted with euphorbia, and 
 
 PAXO. iji 
 
 quantities of narcissus, we come abruptly on the 
 town, forming an amphitheatre round a small and 
 shallow harbour, with rich olive woods, and oc- 
 casionally cypress groves rising above. No town 
 which we have lately seen, surpasses in neatness this 
 mmiature of a capital city. The quays are paved, 
 the streets clean and well lined ; the houses ex- 
 tremely neat, and ornamented on this occasion with 
 ohve boughs, in expectation of a visit from the 
 Lord High Commissioner, in whose honour a little 
 triumphal arch had been erected. 
 
 Lieutenant Simpson (capo di governo) has the 
 chief merit of these refoms. He received us most 
 kindly, and shewed and explained to us every thin* 
 worthy of attention. The island is composed of a 
 light grey limestone, layer above layer, with a gentle 
 dip to the east. It is covered with debris, but wher- 
 ever this has been cleared away, a fine black mould 
 appears, extremely rich. The gardens are quickly 
 overrun with rank weeds, particularly the volpe, so 
 called from its destroying every other vegetable near 
 It. The interior of the island is highly beautiful, 
 much inclosed, and nearly covered with olive trees. 
 The villages are neat and picturesque ; the houses 
 within were extremely clean, and the people were 
 sitting before them, enjoying the evening sun, 
 amusing themselves with various sports, and ap-' 
 parently very happy. Notwithstanding appear- 
 ances, we were assured that the proprietors are, like 
 
 Rl 
 
172 
 
 PAXO. 
 
 the Greeks of the other islands, discerning, quick, 
 jealous of each other, and full of finesse, extremely 
 litigious, and oppressing the lower ranks with all 
 the forms of legal injustice. The proprietors are 
 connected, and the judges are unjust from influ- 
 ence and bribes. 
 
 The manners of the islanders are correct ; the 
 women are much retired, except on festivals, 
 when they flock to St Gajo in their richest attire, 
 and dance in the open air to the sound of the 
 pipe ; some, however, have never been so far from 
 home as the capital. They are all uneducated ; 
 
 the sister, for instance, of the Countess N can 
 
 neither read nor write. We went into one of the 
 cottages, where the daughter of the owner immedi- 
 ately retired and hid herself. Querns, as formerly 
 used in Scotland, ai*e here used for grinding com ; 
 this work, as in the most ancient times, is left to the 
 women. " Two women shall be grinding at the 
 mill, the one shall be taken, and the other left." 
 
 The population of the island is 3968 ; the an- 
 nual produce in wine, corn, oil, and fine honey, is es- 
 timated at 104,018 dollars. The returns from ex- 
 ports 96,000, and the revenue 7^00, which is capa- 
 ble of being further raised to 10,000 dollars ; of this 
 sum 2000 would be requisite for roads, which are 
 at present so rocky and slippery, that the mules 
 are used without shoes, to prevent them from fall- 
 ing with their loads. Wheeled carts or carriages 
 
 PAXO. ijt^ 
 
 are quite unknown, except in the cities of Corfu 
 and Zante. The oil is transported in sheep's skins, 
 and much is lost by the falling of the beasts of 
 burthen on the slippery roads. The oil seasons 
 are alternate, and the produce of them averages at 
 about 17,000 barrels, of 128 pints English each, 
 and valued at present (a dear year) at I7i dollars 
 the barrel. They raise only one month's supply of 
 corn and wine for three : a considerable part of 
 the defect might, it is thought, be supplied by the 
 cultivation of the fine soil of the little chalky Isle 
 of Anti.Paxo. It is separated by the channel 
 about a mile in breadth, and is at present aban- 
 doned to the feeding of mules, and fifteen or six- 
 teen poor Albanians. From 400 to 500 of the 
 inhabitants of Paxo find annually three months 
 employment on the opposite coast of Epire, and 
 return with their wages in bread-corn. 
 
 Property is curiously enjoyed, one man posses- 
 smg the soil, aud another the olive trees which 
 cover it. The proprietor of the soil has little 
 more than the dominium directum .- the domi- 
 nium utile is in the person of the tenant, or rather 
 vassal. All calculations are in dollars. Their 
 lira or lb. is of different weights ; the grosser 
 lira being 14 oz., and their lira sottile of 8. Three 
 public schools have been established, at which 100 
 children are educated, at six dollars a-year. Among 
 the inconveniences, want of water is the greatest. 
 
 
174 PAXO. 
 
 The island contains about 40 tanks. The surface 
 of these is covered with flags, sloping to a hole in 
 the centre, through which the collected rain is re- 
 ceived. A large reservoir was begun by the Rus- 
 sians for the use of the town, but remains unfinish- 
 ed. Near the Lazaretto is a curious intermittent 
 spring, the water of which appeared to me to be 
 above the temperature of the sea, into which it 
 flows. The island contains 36 churches ; 12 are 
 sufficient : 28 ecclesiastics, some of whom are fish- 
 ermen, none I believe apostles : 56 vessels, includ- 
 ing boats, belong to it. 
 
 Four hundred species of plants, twelve of which 
 are unknown in Corfu, are natives of this island : 
 Flora of both have been printed by Signor Fieri. 
 Near the town euphorbia appears a large shrub ; 
 ranunculus, narcissus, rue, chamomile, oranges and 
 lemons are ingrafted on the same stock. Vast 
 numbers of turtle doves resort hither in the spring. 
 A species of broom, called sparto, is here convert- 
 ed into coarse cloth, with which the poor are clad. 
 It is macerated in water 15 days, and the bark 
 is spun into thread : bad cables are also made of 
 it. Bruce describes a storm in the Bay of Alex- 
 andria, in which several ships broke their cables, 
 made of the spartian, and being very weak. 
 
 Inconsiderable as this island is, it still prefers 
 its claim to a place in classic history. The Ma- 
 donna Island, at the entrance to the harbour, is said 
 
 PAXO. IJ^ 
 
 to have been honoured with the presence of Marc 
 Anthony, the day before the battle of Actium, 
 when 13 kings attended at his levee. ITie battle 
 was fought on the opposite coast. 
 
 About half an hour's walk from the town may 
 be seen, near the south-east point, the ruinous re- 
 mains of the old Greek church, built on the site of 
 the ancient Temple of Pan. Mr Simpson found 
 here a rude marble capital, of the Doric order. 
 Plutarch, in his Treatise De Defectu Oraculorum, 
 mentions this temple, and says that its oracle had 
 ceased. Milton, in his Hymn on the Nativity, 
 probably alludes to it when he calls upon the 
 Dryads, or Nymphs of the Woods, to announce 
 the departure of their god : 
 
 '* The lonely mountains o'er. 
 And the resounding shore, 
 A voice of weeping heard, 
 And loud lanaent." 
 
 The view from the hill above Porto Puzzo is 
 very pleasing. At the Church of the Holy Virgin, 
 below, a gold coin of Philip of Macedon was found 
 about four months since. The whole island is 
 truly described as embowered in olive shades. 
 
 Zante was our destination, but squally weather 
 again obliged us to seek a port. We ran into the 
 harbour of Viscarda, near the northern point of 
 Cephalonia. Though the weather was stormy, we 
 
 
17C 
 
 SAPPHo's LEAP. 
 
 SAIL FROM CEPHALONLV TO ZANTE. 
 
 177 
 
 had a fine passing view of the famous Leucadian 
 Cape, called Sappho's Leap. * 
 
 It is a high chalky cliff, at the point of Santa 
 Maura, which anciently had the name of Leucate. 
 A Temple of Apollo once stood upon the promon- 
 tory, but no vestige of it remains. Sappho, a 
 female of Lesbos, and an exquisite poet, flourished 
 about 600 years before the Christian era ; being 
 slighted by Phaon, she threw herself in despair from 
 this bold precipice. Her hopeless passion is paint- 
 ed strongly by Ovid, in Sappho and Phaon, which 
 is beautifully translated by Pope. Such was the 
 sweetness of her poetry, and the sublimity of her 
 genius, that she was called the tenth muse ; she 
 has made this lofty cape for ever memorable. 
 
 ** Here as I lay, I swelled with tears the flood. 
 Before my sight a watery virgin stood ! 
 She stood and cry'd, *' O you that love in vain! 
 Fly hence and seek the fair Leucadian main, 
 There stands a rock, from whose impending steep, 
 Apollo's fane surveys the rolling detp ; 
 There injured lovers, leaping from above. 
 Their flames extinguish, and forget to love. 
 Deucalion once with hopeless fury burn'd, 
 In vain he lov'd, relentless Pyrrha scorn'd ; 
 But when from hence he plunged into the main, 
 Deucalion scornM, and Pyrrha lov'd in vain. 
 Haste, Sappho, haste, from high Lcucadia throw 
 Thy wretched weight, nor dread the deeps below." 
 
 ** For ever sacred be the foaming tide, 
 
 That breaks against thy hoarse resounding side ; 
 
 What though thy long forsaken steep retain 
 
 No mouldering vestige of its marble fane ? 
 
 Yet shall thy cliffs deserve eternal fame 
 
 From Sappho's plaintive verse, and hopeless flame:' 
 
 Santa Maura was separated by the inhabitants 
 from the Grecian Continent, after the close of 
 the Peloponnesian war, near 400 years before 
 Christ. 
 
 We left Viscarda in a fine sunny morning, pass- 
 ing down the narrow channel between Cephalonia 
 and Ithaca : 
 
 i( 
 
 Full oft' recalling, as we sail'd along. 
 The hero's glory, or the poet's song." 
 
 Behind us were Leucate's chalky cliifs, rising 
 above the dark blue waves. To the left lay Ithaca, 
 high and barren ; and the Cyclopean walls of the 
 castle and city of Ulysses. To the right was 
 Cephalonia, on whose elevated and arid sides were 
 the villages of Pelagia, Commitata, and Dolicha, 
 with numerous lines of stone walls covering the 
 hills like the meshes of a net. The insulated rock 
 Dascallio, supposed to be the Asteris of Homer, 
 was at hand. In the distance was the snow-topped 
 mountain Neritos, and at its foot the plain, the 
 ruins, and the spacious bay of ancient Samos. 
 
 As the channel opened, we successively descri- 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 M 
 
 rwl^ l^P' ■ '■■ ' ■■•^i^ 
 
J 78 
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 ZANTE. STROPHADES. 
 
 179 
 
 fe 
 
 ed the Islands and Gulf of Patras, tlic mountiiins 
 of the Morea, Castello Tornese, projecting to the 
 south, and then the hills of Zante gradually emerg- 
 ing from the waves like distant islets, and at length 
 discovering distinctly the pointed summit of Scopo, 
 the castle, the olive groves, and the mountains be- 
 hind. 
 
 The city lies in the angle of the bay, and rises 
 upon the lower slopes of the high precipitous 
 hill on which the castle stands. This hill is sup- 
 posed to have been the site of the ancient city of 
 Zacynthus. The streets of Zante are narrow, 
 but clean and well lined ; the houses are good j 
 the churches numerous, but the steeples low, to 
 guard against the danger to which they are ex- 
 posed, from the frequency of earthquakes. Pliny 
 mentions the splendour of this city. The har- 
 bour is shallow and much exposed, but the an- 
 chorage is good. The castle commands a noble 
 view of almost the whole island. To the north lie 
 olive groves and country seats ; the channel and 
 Island of Cephalonia, the sister Islands, and the 
 Grecian coast, stretching round towards the east. 
 Towards the west and south is spread out, like a 
 richly variegated carpet, the fertile and beautiful 
 vale of Zante, covered with the currant-vine, (the 
 great staple of Zante,) finely subdivided, and speck- 
 led with olive gardens and the villages of the 
 noblesse. Bounding the plain is a continuous 
 
 ridge of bare mountains, extending southward to 
 the sea. I could count eleven villages on their 
 lower slopes ; and on their tops, and among their 
 vallies, I am told, lie numerous picturesque monas- 
 teries still inhabited. From the southern extre- 
 mity of the mountain, a large bay, containing seve- 
 ral rocky islets, sweeps round, till it is terminated 
 toward the east by the precipices of Scopo. * The 
 lower part of this mountain is ornamented with 
 olive woods, orange gardens, vineyards, cottages, 
 and villas ; near the summit stands the large mo- 
 uiistery of the Panagia, with its old evergreen 
 oaks ; the remains, perhaps, of the venerable grove 
 where stood the Temple of Diana, to whom, along 
 with Apollo, the island was dedicated. From this 
 monastery I looked round upon Elis, the famous 
 Olympia, the Pylean Strand, and a part of the 
 Pastoral Arcadia. About 30 miles to the south, 
 I could discover, scarcely rising above the ocean, 
 the noted Strophades. To these islands, as the 
 abode of the Harpies, Virgil has given a high 
 classical interest, by interweaving them with the 
 story of his much-enduring hero ^neas. Eveiy 
 one will remember the prophetic denunciation of 
 the Harpy Queen. I could discern, too, the 
 sandy a^stuary of the Alpheus, which repels and 
 freshens the tide with its weight of waters, bearing 
 
 * Thib island has a circumference of sixty miles. 
 
180 
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 ZANTE. — WELLS OF ASPHALTUIM. 
 
 181 
 
 to the shores of the Strophades shoals of autumnal 
 leaves. These islands are now called Strivali, and 
 contain a monastery of Greek and Kalayeri, found- 
 ed in the reign of Justinian. Vast flights of turtle- 
 doves frequent them in the spring. 
 
 Zante is called by Virgil Nemerosa. Homer 
 speaks of Zacynthus crowned " with shady moun- 
 tains," and *' Zacynthus sylvan reign ;" but these 
 epithets are no longer characteristical ; the ap- 
 pearance of its northern coast might, perhaps, 
 justify these expressions from the pen of a poet, 
 but more probably the forests of Zacynthus have 
 disappeared since their times. Neither its history 
 nor its antiquities possess much present interest. 
 At Melinado, however, was a Temple of Diana, 
 and in the modern church may still be seen some 
 granite pillars with plinths and capitals of white mar- 
 ble. Romandini, a Catholic Bishop, relates, in his 
 account of this place published in the seventeenth 
 century, that, in digging the foundation of the 
 church and convent of Santa Maria della Grazia in 
 1550, the following inscription was discovered on a 
 stone: M. T. Cicero Have. et. tu. Tertia An- 
 TONiA. Beneath this stone were two urns, the 
 laro-est, of an octa^ronal form, contained ashes, 
 and around the bottom the words MAR. TVL. 
 HAVE. What became of the corpse of Cicero is 
 unknown. The above can scarcely aid conjecture ; 
 it is just possible that these may have been the re- 
 
 mains of almost the greatest orator of all antiquity. 
 
 I have been told by Count that this cinerary 
 
 urn is to be found among the treasures of the Bri- 
 tish Museum. 
 
 One authentic natural phenomenon is mention- 
 ed by Herodotus, and is in itself so curious, as to 
 deserve a particular description. I allude to the 
 pitch wells of Cheri, about 12 miles from the city, 
 towards the south. They are situate in a marshy 
 plain, about a quarter of a mile from the sea, and 
 about the same distance from each other. The little 
 plain is inclosed with hills, except towards the sea, in 
 the surface of which, the overflowings of these wells 
 can be discerned in smooth weather a furlong from 
 the shore. The plain, like that of the Solfaterra 
 near Naples, has all the aspect of the crater of an 
 extinguished volcano. The pitch is of the kind 
 called asphaltum. On one side of the marsh it 
 rises up from nine circular wells, of eight or nine 
 feet diameter each. The space between is wholly 
 composed of this pitch, and so finn, as to bear a 
 person without yielding to his weight. These are 
 the most productive. The other on the south side 
 corresponds to the account given by Herodotus, 
 and is probably the most ancient. It is surround- 
 ed with coarse stone work, and is eight feet in 
 diameter, about two feet deep, and filled with wa- 
 ter, having one outlet through the marsh into the 
 sea. From the bottom of this well, streams of li- 
 
 
18^2 
 
 ZANTE. CUllUANTS. 
 
 REVENUE. SOCIETY. 
 
 183 
 
 quid mineral ore incessantly ooze, and unfold their 
 coils like Medusa's snakes, or, rising from the bot- 
 torn like bottles of Indian rubber, swell till they 
 burst and allow the water which has raised them 
 to escape. Spear grass and wild mint were grow- 
 ing round the well, and the sedges and rushes 
 which lined the outlet were black and foul with 
 the pitchy stream. The substance is still collect- 
 ed as of old, by dipping into it a myrtle bough. 
 It is used for sheds and shipping, being first mixed 
 up with fir-tar and boiled. At the northern ex- 
 tremity of the island is another liquid mineral of 
 a white and lat appearance. The whole island is 
 calcareous, with numerous beds of gypsum. It is 
 evidently volcanic, and is much subject to the 
 shock of earthquakes ; a slight one was experien- 
 ced the day preceding our arrival. We regretted 
 being a day too late ; not a year passes without 
 several ; on these occasions I am assured that there 
 is a heaviness in the air, and an oppression on the 
 spirits, that forewarns one of its approach, and in 
 a very marked degree precedes each shock. 
 
 I need not acquaint you that the Uva passa, Co- 
 rinthian grape or currant, is one of the chief sta- 
 ples of Zante, and olive-oil another. Zante pro- 
 duces annually about 8,000,000 pounds of cur- 
 rants, almost the whole of which is shipped for 
 England. The currants when gathered are spread 
 on the ground to dry for fourteen days; at this 
 
 season, (latter end of March,) one heavy shower 
 would destroy the hopes of the harvest, and a pass- 
 ing cloud will darken every countenance in Zante. 
 The wines are desei-vedly much esteemed. The 
 white, in particular, is dry, high flavoured, and 
 of a strong body : after the first season, it keeps 
 for any number of years. The oil of the finest 
 quality is used for the table, the second quality for 
 burning, the third and fourth for soap. An in- 
 genious method has been practised of making salt- 
 water incorporate with oil ; this practice has been 
 detected lately, and the culprit fined 1500 dollars. 
 It was supposed he had made 6000 by the fraud. 
 The island yields a revenue of 157,795 dollars, of 
 which the currants, previous to embarkation, afford 
 55,000. The expenditure may be stated yearly 
 at upwards of 100,000. The produce in 1715 was 
 valued at 1,066,145, and the exports at 591,000. 
 Its population, in the same year, amounted to 
 33y353. 
 
 The society of Zante might be excellent, were the 
 people inclined to be social. A town life is prefer- 
 red by the noblesse, who are numerous, and many 
 of them very opulent ; one person is supposed to be 
 worth 1,000,000 of dollars : the legal interest is 10 
 per cent. We received great attention from Count 
 Reverola, the local head of the government, and 
 from Prince Comuto, so called, as having been 
 chosen Princeps, or chief of the executive govern- 
 
 
184 
 
 MORALS. 
 
 MORALS. 
 
 185 
 
 ment of the Ionian Islands, during the existence 
 of the Russian constitution. He is brother-in-law 
 to Mr George Foresti, and a finished specimen of 
 the old school. The ladies of Zante do not seem 
 to mingle in society. The only evening parties are 
 given by the Countess Macri. Among the higher 
 ranks, almost every man has a mistress : the children 
 are legitimated by subsequent marriage, even in cases 
 where the legal fiction of an original private mar- 
 riage is impossible ; as, for instance, when the wo- 
 man was herself married at the time to another 
 person. Such legitimated children succeed to all 
 but entailed property, and take the title of their 
 father if he belongs to the nobility. The lower 
 orders are more rigid in their morals, but some 
 of their customs will scarce admit of being reveal- 
 ed to more modest ears. 
 
 I mentioned the frequency of private assassina- 
 tions ; but it was the consequence of venal justice 
 and weak government. At the election of the seven 
 representatives for the island, one of the voters pre- 
 sent had, directly or indirectly, assassinated fifteen 
 persons : an indemnity, or even a licence, could be 
 purchased for such atrocities. Since the English ob- 
 tained possession, only one instance of assassination 
 has occurred. Four persons from the Morea came 
 secretly into the island, and put to death in open 
 day three young men : they also secured their 
 retreat. General Campbell resolved to make a 
 
 rigorous example, and by means of a high reward, 
 and such a representation to the Pasha of Tripo- 
 lezza, as was not to be resisted, three of them 
 were apprehended, and hung in chains on a high 
 hill above the city. This occurred three years ago, 
 since which time, not a single murder has been per- 
 petrated. It was proposed to take down the gal- 
 lows, as an unseemly deformity to the city. Count 
 Comuto disapproved of the proposal, and said it 
 would be removing the palladium of Zante. About 
 a year back, 1000 dollars were about to be exacted 
 as a sufficient debt to justice, from a person who 
 had forcibly carried off a young woman from the 
 arms of her husband, on the evening of her 
 marriage day. Mr Wood, the public resident, 
 (universally beloved for his many amiable virtues, 
 and high sense of honour and justice,) suspecting 
 the bribery of the judges, had notes taken of the 
 evidence, which he threatened to send home. 
 The judges, appreliensive of the consequences, sen- 
 tenced the offender to the galleys for ten years, 
 and such a crime is not likely to recur. Those who 
 know best the character of the islanders, say, that, 
 in ten years, the effect of English protection will be 
 a radical reform. A circuit court is to be established 
 to go round every island, and the sentences of the 
 local judicatory are under prudent limitations, re- 
 viewable and reversable on appeal to the High 
 Court at Corfu. 
 
 
186 
 
 PRODUCTIONS. — ACRICULTUUE. 
 
 The vegetable productions of Zante are so rich 
 and various, that it has been named the Garden of 
 the Levant. On the ^2d of March, notwithstand- 
 ing the tardy spring, we liad a profusion of flowers, 
 roses, anemonies, stock-gilly- flowers, carnations, 
 pinks, large, full, and clustering. Towards the 
 end of May, the blossoms of the currant-vine fill 
 the air with their perfume. 
 
 The tenures are unfavourable to agriculture. 
 The richness of the land, and the value of the 
 produce, render it superior to the culture of the 
 other islands, though it is still far short of what 
 it ought to be. A large and valuable district, the 
 property of Count Macri, is a melancholy waste, 
 though part of the plain. It is a marsh from want 
 of drainage, and a desert from the absence of a 
 spirit liberal enough in granting leases, which 
 might indemnify the tenant for his expences in the 
 outset. Zante does not supply the fourth part of 
 its annual consumption of bread-corn ; cows are not 
 used for milk ; goat milk is preferred. The only milk 
 cow in Zante belongs to Dr Tliomas, the Inspector 
 of Health ; to whose polite and friendly attentions 
 we have been indebted for many conveniences. 
 
 Here, as in the other islands, the proprietor has 
 oppressed the peasant, but the latter is still light- 
 hearted and gay. Two species of rustic pipes are 
 in use among them ; one, a joint of a large reed, 
 perforated like a flageolet, the other, resembling 
 
 HISTORICAL EVENTS. 
 
 187 
 
 the common bagpipe. The bagpipe, I may remark, 
 seems common to almost every country in Europe, 
 from Caledonia to Greece. We have heard it 
 sounding the warlike gathering of the Highland 
 clans, and have seen it in Rome, Naples, and Cala- 
 bria, playing the hymn of the Virgin. Amonjx the 
 Ionian isles, and in Greece, it is the music of 
 their festivals. 
 
 The ancient history of Zante is not of great im- 
 portance. Saguntum in Spain, the origin of the 
 second Punic war, was originally founded by a- 
 colony from Zante. Dion, the scholar of Plato, 
 received here the small armament with which 
 he dethroned Dionysius the tyrant of Syracuse. 
 The Romans afterwards subdued Zante, and used 
 it as a military station, during the Mithridatic 
 war. It subsequently formed a part of the east- 
 ern empire. In the reign of Andronicus Pa?leo- 
 logus the Elder, (A. D. 129,) it was seized by 
 the Spaniards of Catalonia, and was afterwards 
 possessed in sovereignty for 100 years by a French 
 family. It fell, with Constantinople, under the 
 dominion of the Turks, and, towards the end of 
 the fifteenth century, was sold by them to the Ve- 
 netians, whose fortunes it has followed, up to the 
 dissolution of that republic by the French, 
 
LETTER XLIX. 
 
 CEPHALONIA. 
 
 Mount JEnos, — T&wn. — Malaria, — Vines. — Fine Arts, — 
 
 Ancient Cities Temple of Jupiter. — Tombs. — Cyclopea n 
 
 Ruins,— Hills.-^Propensiti/ of the Natives to Navigation. 
 
 Sailing from Zante, a few hours brought us to 
 the coast of Cephalonia, at the foot of Mount 
 jEnos ; but we had to beat all night to the west, 
 before we could make the entrance of the long 
 bay, near the top of which Argostoli the capital is 
 situate. In passing up the bay, we almost touch- 
 ed Lixuri, a pretty and thriving town on its west- 
 em shore. The country near it is well cultivated, 
 light, and pleasant. On the opposite side, with- 
 in a branch of the great bay, which has here the 
 appearance of an inland lake, stands the town of 
 Argostoli. The approach is beautiful, even grand, 
 from the majesty of Mount Mnos, and the variety 
 of surface below, cultivated or wild. The town, 
 which is upwards of a mile in length, is improv- 
 ino- in neatness, cleanliness, and health. In the last 
 particular, there yet remains much to be done. The 
 malaria fever prevailed at times like a pestilence. 
 
Sf{»)i>>^lLJ S,li: 
 
 ^■STUSSjAJ^ 
 
 Vmr m l»«'pr'ripti»«n **f 
 
 A-. 
 
 </r f trfiajonia F^t 
 
 a-m^Sm^' 
 
 
\m\.2 PacM:' 
 
 Wr 
 
 J»m^S^' 
 
Vo3.iT«,p.«9. 
 
 S£l3ffi;jft^S 
 
 affiHTffiMSKU.T:i3^ ^^ ^a,«....s^«235.x.^. 
 
 far •D»»«-if«»»' 
 
 .1 rf «b» 
 
 „ MrdU- •" XpP'"^ •' •*" ^' 
 
 FINE AUTS. 
 
 189 
 
 The town was poisoned with stagnant pools, which 
 some of the inhabitants still assert were favourable 
 to health. The itch, too, which is prevalent in 
 Argostoli, they will not have cured, believing it 
 to be a preventive of the malaria fever ; their me- 
 dical men, it is said, are of the same opinion. 
 Many of the inhabitants are consequently miser- 
 able and disgusting in their appearance, from the 
 baneful effect of that disorder. The Capo di Go- 
 verno has filled up the stagnant pools ; yet, even 
 now the spring fever is very prevalent. 
 
 The neighbourhood is rich in vines, and the 
 produce is highly esteemed. We dined with the 
 Capo di Governo, and the regimental band played 
 to a late hour a variety of Scotch airs, which, at 
 this distance from home, were truly delightful. 
 The fine arts in the Ionian Islands are not very 
 high, yet there is a wish, especially in Corfu, that 
 they should be cultivated, and some young people 
 have shewn considerable talent. Cephalonia has 
 to boast of giving birth to Signor Pizzamano, an 
 artist and an architect of great ability. We met 
 with that gentleman in Italy, and to him I am in- 
 debted for some beautiful drawings of ancient me- 
 dallions, emblematic of the Ionian Islands, together 
 with a plan, said to be meditated by the govern- 
 ment, in conjunction with the Earl of Guildford, 
 the friend and patron of Modern Greece, for the 
 building of an university in Corfu or Ithaca. 
 
 Umm^ Sm^'. 
 
 . i- CJkl'^o f-* 
 
 «»-v'«iir 
 
Voi.^p.r*^'*'' 
 
 
 
 .4vi/;t3-*^^ 2^' 
 
 f«r B D»««T^P«»" 
 
 FINE ARTS. 
 
 18!) 
 
 The town was poisoned with stagnant pools, which 
 some of the inhabitants still assert were favourable 
 to health. The itch, too, which is prevalent in 
 Argostoli, they will not have cured, believing it 
 to be a preventive of the malaria fever ; their me- 
 dical men, it is said, are of the same opinion. 
 Many of the inhabitants are consequently miser- 
 able and disgusting in their appearance, from the 
 baneful effect of that disorder. The Capo di Go- 
 verno has filled up the stagnant pools ; yet, even 
 now the spring fever is very prevalent. 
 
 The neighbourhood is rich in vines, and the 
 produce is highly esteemed. We dined with the 
 Capo di Governo, and the regimental band played 
 to a late hour a variety of Scotch airs, which, at 
 this distance from home, were truly delightful. 
 The fine arts in the Ionian Islands are not very 
 high, yet there is a wish, especially in Corfu, that 
 they should be cultivated, and some young people 
 have shewn considerable talent. Cephalonia has 
 to boast of giving birth to Signer Pizzamano, an 
 artist and an architect of great ability. We met 
 with that gentleman in Italy, and to him I am in- 
 debted for some beautiful drawings of ancient me- 
 dallions, emblematic of the Ionian Islands, together 
 with a plan, said to be meditated by the govern- 
 ment, in conjunction with the Earl of Guildford, 
 the friend and patron of Modern Greece, for the 
 building of an university in Corfu or Ithaca. 
 
 ti>v SeM^: 
 
 mm ^ mr 
 
1<J0 
 
 ANCIENT CITIES. RUINS. 
 
 Cephalonia is enumerated by Homer among the 
 dominions of Ulysses, who conducted its heroes to 
 the Trojan war. It was divided into four districts, 
 with each its capital, and hence called Tetrapolis. 
 The ancient cities were Cranii, near Argostoli, Pro- 
 nil, Same or Samos, and Pallc in the sea ; at the 
 south point, ruins perhaps of Palle can be seen in 
 clear weather. Same defied the Roman power under 
 Marcus Fulvius, in the 5G3d year of the city. 
 
 On Mount ^nos was an ancient temple of Jupi- 
 ter iEnesius. Many ancient tombs are still to be 
 seen ; some of them have been opened, and have 
 been found to contain quantities of pottery, bones, 
 and defaced coins : further excavations may lead to 
 more curious discoveries. At the top of the little 
 bay, about a mile and a half from Argostoli, are 
 some curious Cyclopean remains, covering an extent 
 of about a mile, on the ascent of a mountain : were it 
 not that parts of the wall still stand undemolished, 
 and from the orderly disposition of the ruins, one 
 would hardly believe that such a collection of massive 
 stones had been brought together by hinnan hands. 
 Earthquakes doubtless have shaken them down. 
 Among the ruins are small fields of barley, to 
 which they serve as a fence. Immediately below 
 stood ancient Cranii, in what is now a ver}^ rich 
 and small inclosed little plain, covered with the 
 currant vine. Squared stones and marble are oc- 
 
 9W.'--'Wf 
 
 TRADE. 
 
 191 
 
 occasionally dug up, and two silver medals of Alex- 
 ander were lately found. 
 
 The hills above are composed of a coarse white 
 marble : a few plants of wild asparagus were grow- 
 ing among the rocks ; and on the way to the 
 town, the road is lined with American aloe. The 
 salt-water lake is here very shallow, and well stock- 
 ed with teal, coots, and other wild fowl. The 
 natives of Cephalonia seem partial to the sea. We 
 were informed by an intelligent gentleman, that 
 the cultivation of the island is almost abandoned, 
 old men and women being in some villao-es the 
 only stationary population. The Cephaleiotes, like 
 most of the Greek navigators, trade principally to 
 the Black Sea for corn, and lose every year a oreat 
 number of their vessels ; as they take, however, 
 six or seven weeks to make a voyage, which Bri- 
 tish transports with the same winds make in a fort- 
 night, it is probable the Odessa trade will ulti- 
 mately flill into the hands of the British capitalists. 
 At present the island has 120 vessels, from 50 
 to 250 tons, engaged in this trade for corn. 
 
 Being anxious to proceed as soon as possible for 
 the continent of Greece, we shall hasten from this 
 island, of which I have given but a poor account. 
 Our vessel sails to Ithaca before us, to be in readi- 
 ness to convey us to Patras, and we have deter- 
 mined to take a shorter way, and cross the moun- 
 tains towards that classic island. 
 
 VOL. If. t 
 
LETTER L. 
 
 ITHACA. 
 
 Sail to Ithaca,— Counterfeit Coins.— Cave of Dexia.—Guite- 
 ria.—Falace of Ulyanes.— Relics of AtUiquitif.—Rock of 
 Corax. — Fountain of Arethusa. — Hills composed of Lime- 
 stone. — Homers School rathi. — Population, — Climate- 
 
 — IVines, 
 
 We left Argostoli by daybreak, and travelling 
 over a mountainous country, arrived about noon at 
 a miserable little village called Samos, deserted and 
 in ruins, from its unhealthy situation. There we 
 were to find a boat from the Capo of Ithaca to 
 convey us to that island ; the boat arrived in the 
 course of the morning, bringing over a sergeant of 
 the 4th, with a month's pay of the little guard 
 which wa3 stationed there, to enforce the quaran- 
 tine regulations. Our sail to Ithaca occupied 
 about three hours, with a fine breeze in our fa- 
 vour. We landed at Opiso Aito, near the Castle 
 of Ulysses, and proceeded along a road extreme- 
 ly rocky and uneven. The rain fell fast, and 
 we took shelter in the cottage of an Ithacan 
 shepherd, who was playing to his family on an in- 
 strument well known in Scotland by the name of 
 the stock and horn. A miserable abode it was. 
 
 COUNTERFEIT COINS. 
 
 193 
 
 * 
 
 where knavery sometimes entered, and appeared 
 to have given lessons to the whole family, for they 
 all crowded round us with something or other 
 to sell, which they called relics of Odysseps. * 
 They then produced some copper coins, which 
 they wished to sell as the coinage of Ulysses, 
 though one was a Venetian halfpenny, and the 
 letters S. C. on the reverse of the others, shewed 
 that they had been struck by the authority of the 
 senate of Rome, t Every thing in this island is 
 referred to Odysseps. 
 
 We proceeded to Vathi the capital, and found a 
 boat on the opposite side of the hill, to convey us 
 thitlier. In our way we passed, upon our right, 
 the Cave of Dexia, where, according to Homer,' 
 Ulysses was landed when asleep by the Phaeacians.' 
 
 * Such is the manner in which the name of the hero of the 
 Odyssey is pronounced by the m(»dern Greeks, 
 
 + la Florence, Rome, and in all the Jonian Islands, people 
 have attempted to impose upon us with counterfeit coins. X 
 have been told, that there are manufactories of them in Italy 
 They are easily detected; the smooth enamel of aae espe' 
 cially round the edge of ancient medals or coins, clnnot be 
 imitated, nor is it easily removed; whereas, the crust upon 
 the counterfeits, produced by acid, comes off with the slirrhtest 
 friction. The colour of ihe metal, too, is another distinguish- 
 ing circumstance; the ancient metal has more of a brassy hue 
 The few coins which we have picked up, were found in' 
 tombs, fields of battle, or in cities destroyed by fire. 
 VOL. If, jj 
 
194 
 
 PALACE OF ULYSSES. 
 
 PALACE OF ULYSSES. 
 
 The small Island of Cazurbo with its Lazaretto 
 rose on our left ; passing this, the town of Vathi 
 came full in view ; and on a hill to the right, the 
 ruins of the ancient town of Guiteria might be 
 partially seen intermixed with olives ; the whole 
 forming a beautiful scene, and quite different in 
 character from any other part of Ithaca we had 
 yet seen. In general, the island still deserves the 
 appellations of roclcy and barren^ which the classic 
 authors so frequently employ when writing of 
 this celebrated spot. Major Temple received us 
 very kindly, and gave us billets of lodging on the 
 principal inhabitants. Our quarters are extremely 
 comfortable. Early the next morning, our host 
 brout^-ht us coffee and sweatmeats before we rose. 
 He is a physician; occupies a good house; j)OS- 
 sesses several books, among which are Italian trans- 
 lations of some English authors ; and displays con- 
 siderable intelligence. 
 
 We should have been devoid of all enthusiasm, 
 hiul we not immediately visited the Palace of 
 Ulysses. Indeed, Ulysses seemed still, in our 
 imao-ination, Kinjj: of Ithaca, and our curiosity 
 was stimulated by every circumstance which popu- 
 lar belief or ancient poetry had connected with his 
 story and that of the Trojan war. Obeying the 
 impulse of this natural feeling, we visited the ruins 
 of what is denominated his Castle, near Opiso 
 Alto, where we first landed on the island. For this 
 
 195 
 
 10 
 
 puT)ose. we were provided with a boat and guide 
 In our way, we were tempted to land at the Cave' 
 of Dex,a, but, to our great disappointment, the cave 
 has been lately destroyed by a recent alteration 
 of the pubhc road : there is now no appearance of 
 ns ever havmg been a cave. The name, however, 
 and the concurrent testimony of the inhabitants 
 of Vath,, g,ve somewhat of probability to the be- 
 
 r,,-,f™";-l ''"' ^' '""''''"^ t« *« foot of 
 the h.11, wh,,h ,.s covered with the remains of the 
 
 f't r y^""- ^'^^ ^"' ^^--'^^We feature 
 
 s the Cyclopean wall, reaching from the castle to 
 
 the bottom of the hill. The stones in the wall 
 
 arc of all shapes and sizes ; but near the castle, the 
 
 rrorrrr^e"'^^^"^^^"^"^^-^^"^*''^ 
 
 work of ait. Tliese rums are very insignificant, 
 but, seen from a little distance, their appeai^nce i 
 >mposmg. The platform, partly inclosed by them, 
 gives a dmmeter of 90 or 100 feet. Within this 
 arc two keeps, as they are called ; but to all ap. 
 pearance they are ancient tanks, though now quite 
 rtry. In these, especially the largest, into which 
 we w,th some difficulty descended, are a few names 
 of travellers inscribed on the wall where the plaster* 
 remamed fit for the purpose : you may 'suppose 
 that we availed ourselves of these very perishable 
 
 • This is suppo«..l to be a sufficient proof of it being of a 
 more modern day, as the ancient Greeks did not use cLent! 
 
 L.*J ttt*Cfe j-J.u>'f- js^t Itl^'.'Vc^t^'i-^ti.ll^i^^-M^t 
 
196 
 
 IICLICS OF ANTIQUITY. 
 
 FOUNTAIN OF AIIETHUSA. 
 
 197 
 
 means, for recording our visit to this far-famed 
 
 palace. 
 
 From the commanding eminence on which the 
 castle stands, the view of the Laertia Regno, in 
 which Mount Neritos is a principal feature, is 
 extensive, various, and interesting, consisting of 
 sea and continent, and distant classic isles. Re- 
 turning from the castle, we met with quantities 
 of broken ancient pottery, turned up by the 
 plough ; indeed, the plough can never penetrate 
 this soil, without revealing some relic, enough at 
 least to interest the feelings, and send back the 
 imagination into the regions of antiquity. Seve- 
 ral ancient graves have been opened at the foot of 
 the hill on which the castle stands, and many silver 
 and srold coins have rewaidcd tlie researches of the 
 
 antiquary. * 
 
 We reiiched Vathi in time for dinner, and drank 
 to the memory of old Homer and Ulysses, in 
 some of the delicious wines of Ithaca, " as luscious 
 
 • We were informpd that a helmet and Tarious ornamenlt 
 in silver and gold have been dug up. Tlic chissical reader 
 will be horrific! to learn that these were melted down, and 
 formed into a coffee pot, and many duvlicates of the silver 
 coins into skewers, which the person who gave us the informa- 
 tion assured us lliat he had seen. A late Capo (not an English, 
 man) was the person guilty of this most barbarous metamor- 
 phosis, an.l it was done with the view of enhancing the value ! 
 Of the coins which remained liOO arc stdl cniiie. 
 
 as the bee's nectareous dew." To be in Ithaca, 
 and not to visit the Coracian Rock, where « Are- 
 thusa's sable water glides," was impossible. The 
 walk to it was over rocky heights, and rugged and 
 sharply pointed limestone, which characterize the 
 country : once or twice, however, in the course of 
 the walk, we saw below us a pretty valley. The 
 Rock of Corax, rising above the Fountain Arethusa 
 to a great height, is wholly composed of limestone, 
 and presents a variety of horizontal strata. There 
 is nothing at the Fountain of Arethusa, which, 
 divested of the classical interest connected with 
 such a spot, is particularly deserving of notice. 
 In crossing Cephalonia, we saw no streams of 
 water, and consequently none of those deep pic- 
 turesque ravines, which occasionally enrich the 
 landscape of most other countries. Here, how- 
 ever, the stream, though at present just percepti- 
 ble, has, by the united operation of time and floods, 
 excavated a deep ravine for its outlet, fully as high 
 as those of the Esk at Hawthornden. The warer 
 of the Fountain of Arethusa is cool and agreeable . 
 to the taste, and it is said the people in its neigh- 
 bourhood who drink of it live to a great age,— in a 
 few instances to the age of 100 and 120 : the 
 cattle, also, live long, but never grow fat. 
 
 Returning from the Fountain of Arethusa, we 
 examined the limestone of which the hills are 
 composed, and found it full of nodules of flint 
 
198 CALCAREOUS HILLS. IIOMER's SCHOOL. 
 
 quite round, and of various sizes, from the dimen- 
 sions of a walnut, to the size of a small cannon 
 ball. When these nodules are disengaged by the 
 weather, the rocks have a singular honeycombed 
 appearance. On breaking several of them, we ob- 
 served that the white opaque flint in some was uni- 
 fonn, while others hcul rings of various colours, 
 with pure limestone in the centre, precisely the 
 same as that in which the nodules were fixed. The 
 veins which run through the great mass are black, 
 or of the colour of brown -soap ; the same appear- 
 ances were observable in the hills, on our journey 
 from Argostoli to Samos in Cephalonia. 
 
 Next day we attempted to see the antiquities 
 of Homer's School, as it is called, supposed to 
 be the remains of the Temple of Minerva. For 
 this purpose, the Capo accommodated us with his 
 boat, to convey us as far as we could go by 
 water, but the wind was so high, that it was con- 
 sidered dangerous to proceed. We were there- 
 fore landed at a nearer point, at the bottom of a 
 mountain, and from this, pursued our way over 
 many precipitous heights and deep ravines, till 
 we reached the village of Mavrona, where we 
 learned it would be impossible for us to get to Ho- 
 mer's School that evening. Failing in this enter- 
 prise, we returned to our boat, having seen little 
 worth recording, except some fine combinations 
 of scenery. Occasionally we were assailed by dogs 
 
 vathi. 
 
 199 
 
 of a gigantic and savage species, which guarded 
 habitations, not very dissimilar to that of Eumseus, 
 and barked as loudly at the approaching stranger.* 
 The town of Vathi contains about two thousand 
 inhabitants. The name signifies deep, and is pro- 
 bably derived from its situation, at the termina- 
 tion of a deep bay. In the port there are several 
 vessels belonging to the town. The people of I- 
 thaca are said, however, to be less attached to sea 
 speculation, than the natives of some of the neigh- 
 bouring islands. 
 
 In those houses which we have entered, fand 
 they are I believe the principal,) there is a higher 
 degree of comfort apparent than I had expected 
 to find. Our host has a little garden to his house 
 planted with orange trees, under the shade of which 
 he and his family enjoy their tobacco-pipes, the 
 favourite luxury of the Levant. In the shops I 
 perceived caviare, herring, pickled salmon, and dried 
 fish of various kinds, which constitute the princi- 
 pal food of the Greeks : occasionally they have a 
 
 * " Soon as Ulysses near the inclosure drew, 
 With open mouths the furious mastiffs flew: 
 Down sat the sage, and cautious to withstand, 
 J^et fall th* offensive truncheon from his hand. 
 Sudden the master runs ; aloud he calls • 
 And from his hasty hand the leather falls. 
 With showers of stones he drives them far awny ; 
 The scattering dogs around at distance lav/' 
 
 V 
 
200 
 
 POPULATION. WlxVES. 
 
 little salt butter from England, but it is used only 
 among the English. 
 
 The population of Ithaca, and several interesting 
 particulars relative to the statistics of the island, have 
 formed an object of Major Temple's inquiries.^ The 
 population, according to his returns of Ithaca, and 
 two little islands its dependencies, which, from their 
 vicinity to the continent, it is thought necessary to 
 keep always in quarantine, is stated at 9400 souls. 
 The heat at Ithaca, during the summer, nmst, 
 in consequence of the rays of the sun being re- 
 flected so generally from limestone rock and moun- 
 tains little intruded upon by vegetation, be very 
 great ; at Vathi, however, it is not, we understand, 
 found to be oppressive, being moderated by local 
 circumstances. In one respect, the island is great- 
 ly favoured in comparison with its neighbours, 
 being said to be free from malaria, so destruc- 
 tive at the neighbouring island of Cephalonia. 
 Of the Corinthian grape, the currant of com- 
 merce, which forms the riches of Zante, Ithaca 
 affords only a moderate supply ; not more, pro- 
 bably, than the twelfth part of what is ])roduce(l at 
 Zante. The soil must be in general too poor ibr 
 the cultivation of that species of grape, w hich does 
 not agree with so hard a bed, and makes large de- 
 
 * For a very correct and curious account of the slate ot 
 Ithaca in I81(), see AppenciiXj No. III. 
 
 WINES. 
 
 201 
 
 mands upon the soil. From some circumstance or 
 other, they have never been able to introduce the 
 currant-grape at Corfu: it has refused to flourish 
 there, but in Cephalonia a considerable number are 
 produced, and form an export. Ithaca stands at the 
 headof the seven islands, perhaps of all Greece, forits 
 wine. The red Ithaca wine is excellent, superior to 
 that of Tenedos, the Greek wine which it most 
 resembles ; but it is generally much injured, some- 
 tmies spoiled, by the injudicious manner in which 
 It is kept. In the possession and management of 
 the British commandants at Cephalonia and Ithaca, 
 we found it a delightful wine, with a hermitage 
 flavour, and a good sound body. The great diffi- 
 culty in bringing the wines of these islands into 
 commerce, when they are to be sent a distant 
 voyage, arises from the want of brandying them 
 sufficiently to make them keep. 
 
 We were fortunate in obtaining the best infor- 
 mation concerning the government, revenues, and 
 statistics of the Septinsular republic, which I have 
 reserved for the Appendix. 
 
RIVER ACHELOUS. 
 
 Q03 
 
 LETTER LI. 
 
 PATRAS. 
 
 
 Doubts concerning the Antiquities of Ithaca — Appearance 
 (f the Ionian Islands from the Sea, — Knavery of our 
 Greek Skipper, — Land on the Coast oj Albania. — River 
 
 Achel'Qus Skipper's hatred of All Pasha — Coast of the 
 
 Gulf of Lepanto, — Appearance of Fatras from the Sea. 
 
 "romb of St Andreiv, — Greek Festival, — Costumes, — 
 
 Streets, — Slovenly Disposition of the Inhabitants, — Steam 
 
 Bath. Fragments of Marbles, — Ancient Gate at Ephesus 
 
 spoiled of its Ornaments. — Fort of Fatras, — Trade, — 
 Consuls, — Expence of Living, — Climate, — Malaria, — 
 Plague, — Greek Wedding, 
 
 Fatras, April I8I7. 
 
 We remained only three days in Ithaca ; and, 
 except Homer's School, we saw all the antiquities 
 worthy of notice in the island. Much ingenious 
 writing, from an able pen, has been used to prove 
 the Cave of Dexia, the Palace of Ulysses, and the 
 Rock of Corax, to be the antiquities mentioned in 
 the Odyssey. Considerable doubts of this are ex- 
 pressed by the most enlightened people of the island j 
 but, for my part, I cannot pretend to offer an opi- 
 nion. 
 
 The Ionian Islands, viewed from the sea, arc 
 not without considerable picturesque beauty. In 
 
 i 
 
 this respect, Corfu undoubtedly takes the lead • 
 then follow Zante, Cephalonia, Santa Maura, and 
 Ithaca. Paxo offers nothing externally, but with- 
 in the island there are some very singular scenes. 
 Uur Greek captain, Constande, sailed from 
 Ithaca (1st of April) very much against his will. 
 Unfortunately we had agreed to pay him by the 
 day ; and, as the agreement was greatly in his 
 favour, he found it to his advantage to linger, 
 which he did not scruple to do on the slightest 
 pretext; and it was with some difficulty we obliged 
 him to sail from the port of Ithaca. He got the 
 better of us, however, at last ; for, on a trifling breeze 
 springing up, he said it would be dangerous to pro- 
 ceed, as he saw certain appearances in the sky which 
 indicated a rising storm ; we therefore prudently 
 or perhaps foolishly, allowed him to put his vessel 
 into a creek near the mouth of the river Acheldus 
 This river, of a wheyish colour, rises in Mount Pin- 
 dus, and is one of the largest in Greece. It freshens 
 the sea to a considerable distance, and has united 
 several islands to the mainland since the Christian 
 era. The cattle on its shores are white. The 
 Achelous is fabled to have been one of the suitors 
 of Dejanira, in the shape of a bull. Hercules de 
 feated him, broke off one of his horns, and carried 
 on Dejanira. 
 
 As we expected, no storm arose, but the rogue 
 of a captain thought it unsafe to sail at night. 
 
204* 
 
 COAST OF THE GULF OF LEPANTO. 
 
 The rosy morning found us becalmed, and we made 
 little progress in the day. For a few hours we 
 landed on a wild and desert country. I ascended 
 with some difficulty one of the subordinate hills, 
 and from the sharpness of the limestone-rocks, was 
 nearly in the situation of a person picketed. The 
 scenery around was varied and reposed in quietness 
 profound, save the screaming of the hawk for food, 
 which the barrenness of the place would have seem- 
 ed almost to deny, had I not perceived the feather 
 of a wild fowl borne upon the gently breathing 
 
 air. 
 
 On a signal from our ship being given, we left 
 this wild yet pleasing scene. Sailing up the coast, 
 some dolphins played about our ship, and wild ducks 
 were hastening to the land. Our captain, who 
 spoke English, was occasionally eloquent against the 
 Turks, and in particular against the AH Pasha, for 
 whom he seemed to have a malicious hatred : *' Oh 
 if I could bite a hole in him, and suck out his 
 blood, and eat a piece of his flesh every day, 1 
 should be happy." His enmity to the numerous 
 priests, of which ho said there were twelve orders, 
 was not inferior : *' If I had power I would tram- 
 ple them to death !" And speaking of the modern 
 Greeks, he observed, that, '* from being once the 
 first of men, they were now the last." This was 
 all said while he was employed in shaviiiix Iti^ 
 crexv. 
 
 PATRAS. 
 
 205 
 
 Great part of the coast towards the Gulf of 
 Lepanto is flat, but joins the hills at no great dis- 
 tance. These downs, we w^ere informed, feed nu- 
 merous flocks of sheep, but occasionally they 
 take the ophthalmia, to remove which, our captain 
 informed us, there is introduced into the eye a fine 
 powder, obtained from the sepia fish. A gentle 
 breeze springing up, we soon entered that part of 
 the Gulf of Lepanto, where the Turks were de- 
 feated by the Christians under Don John of Aus- 
 tria, and where the immortal Cervantes lost his 
 arm. We passed the minarets of Mosalongi, and 
 in a short time were brought into the ancient 
 Bay of Patrae, with Patras before us, backed by 
 noble mountains, and on our left the lofty promon- 
 tories of ^tolia and Achaia, stretching towards 
 the shores of Corinth. 
 
 Patras, the ancient Patrae, a town of considerable 
 size, stands upon a rising ground of gentle eleva- 
 tion ; the castle, which is almost entirely in ruins, 
 crowns the whole. From the sea the town is an 
 interesting object, at least it possesses the interest 
 of novelty to a stranger yet unaccustomed to the 
 aspect of a Turkish town. The flags erected upon 
 the houses of the different consuls exhibit the co- 
 lours of their respective nations. The mountains 
 behind well become the continent of Greece. They 
 are lofty, of noble and pleasing forms, especially the 
 snow-capped Vodia ; pine trees tip the subordinate 
 
^00 
 
 TOMB OF ST ANDREW. 
 
 TOM 15 OF ST ANDREW. 
 
 ^207 
 
 summits, and climb up the gullies and ravines. 
 The pass of Tripolizza appears to the right, and 
 offers to the curious eye many wild and rocky scenes. 
 From our landing place, the whole forms a pleasing 
 picture : magnificent mountains, cultivated plains 
 covered with the vine or currant-grape, and olive ; 
 the minarets of the Turkish mosques ; the various 
 buildings of the town ; the ruins, too, of the'ancient 
 church on the site, it is supposed, of the Temple 
 of Jupiter, together with the tomb of St Andrew, 
 our tutelary saint, who, it is said, was martyred 
 here, * form a combination highly gratifying to 
 the eye. 
 
 While employed in drawing this curious scene. 
 
 * St Andrew, whose opportune assistance to the people of 
 Patras, at the time of its famous siege by the Saracens and 
 Sclavonians, is related by Gibbon. In the last distress of the 
 place, a bold sally was made successfully, the Saracens re-em- 
 barked, the Sclavonians submitted, and the glory of the day was 
 ascribed to a phantom, or a stranger who fought in the foremost 
 ranks, under the character of St Andrew the aj)ostle. The 
 shrine which contained the relics of the saint, was decorated 
 Avith trophies of victory, and the captive race of Sclavonians 
 was ever devoted to the service and vassalage of the metropoli- 
 tan church of Patras. The Greeks are indulged in a sort of 
 saturnalia by their Turkish despots on that occasion. Their 
 holiday* last only, however, two days, and they occupy them- 
 selves in licentious riot during their continuance, Patras has 
 another contribution to our saints* calendar ; and an inhabitant 
 of Edinburgh may be reminded, that St Giles (a corruption of 
 iEgidius) was a monk of Patras. 
 
 I perceived that the Greeks paid their devotions as 
 they passed the shrine of the saint, crossing them- 
 selves, and touching their foreheads. Within the 
 little chapel, which contains what was shewn to us 
 as the tomb of St Andrew, we found a burning lamp, 
 and some wretched daubs of the saint. The mar- 
 ble slab, which may be about four feet long, and 
 broad in proportion, is turned upside down, and is 
 much chipped and broken by the devotees, who 
 consider the fragments as charms against the evils 
 of this life. On inquiring what was inscribed 
 upon the tomb, we were told that it is so much de- 
 stroyed, that only a few letters could be traced : 
 it is therefore to be regretted, that they were so 
 tardy in turning it ; yet, if it be really the tomb of 
 St Andrew, it is a miracle that it has been preser- 
 ved at all in this land of Mahomet. The border 
 round the edge of the marble is partly entire, and 
 seems to have been executed in a good age of art. 
 Here, too, is a sacred well of excellent cool water, 
 which the Greeks seldom pass without tasting. 
 
 In the absence of Mr Cartwright, the consul, we 
 were hospitably and politely received by Mr Bar- 
 tholl, the vice-consul, with whom we lived while we 
 remained at Patras. Through his attention, we be- 
 came acquainted with the customs and manners of 
 
 the place. Mr Parnell, too, the consul for , was 
 
 indefatigable in his kind offices and obliging com- 
 munications. 
 
 
508, 
 
 GRECIAN FESTIVAL. 
 
 COSTUMES. 
 
 209 
 
 Fortunately we arrived at the time of a festi- 
 val of the Greeks, — the celebration of the Re- 
 surrection of our Saviour. This aftbrded us an 
 opportunity of seeing some of their gaieties and 
 amusements. Processions with music began at a 
 very early hour, with a constant firing of musquets : 
 iSddles, bagpipes, and tamboiirins, were to be heard 
 in every street, and never certainly was any thing 
 more distracting or confounding : the discordant 
 union of the bagpipe with tlie fiddle sounded to 
 our ears like the squealing of children and the 
 squeaking of pigs ; yet to this music, if so it may 
 be called, they paraded and danced. The firing 
 of the guns made us start at every instant, for we 
 found that they were often loaded with ball, and 
 there is rarely a festival without some disaster. We 
 heard the balls distinctly in the air, and when we 
 paid our visit to the castle, and the great cypress 
 tree in the plain, balls passed us within a yard or 
 two, whizzing in our ears : one actually went 
 throufrh the room in which Mr Painell was seated, 
 and a poor child had its knee shattered to pieces ! 
 On inquiring what would be done with the trans- 
 gressors, we were told, that, if they could be dis- 
 covered, they would be banished ; but that there 
 was little chance of finding them, where so many 
 were engaged in the same pastime. This may 
 afford a little insight into the nature of their police, 
 and some idea of the value they have for human 
 
 19 
 
 life. In short, the scene, instead of being a ra- 
 tional enjoyment, seemed to be one of uproar and 
 confusion. 
 
 Many of the costumes, particularly that of the 
 Albanians, were extremely beautiful and becom- 
 ing. The dress of the inferior Greeks is a wool- 
 len coat, white or brown, sometimes long and 
 sometimes short ; over their trowsers they wear 
 a short petticoat or kilt of cotton cloth, edged 
 at the bottom with black, a handkerchief or belt 
 IS fixed about the waist ; their head dress is com- 
 posed of twisted white or yellow cotton cloth, with 
 a little scull-cap of red or blue in the centre ; their 
 hair is loose and flowing ; their necks and breasts 
 are bare. 
 
 The superior class of Greeks wear pelisses or 
 flowing robes of various colours, and red shoes, over 
 which they have slippers turned up at the points. 
 The fore part of the head is sometimes shaven, and 
 has a grey appearance, contrasted with the brow : 
 this custom is chiefly confined to the wealthy Greeks. 
 The Greek salutation or salam * is given in a very 
 graceful manner. They first touch their foreheads. 
 
 * A Frank passing a Greek in the streets is immediately 
 greeted, as already noticed by our travellers, with a salutation 
 the meaning of which is, *' Christ is risen." Our Greek ser- 
 vant presented us with a nosegay on Easter day, and we 
 noticed coloured eggs, which are to be seen in some Catholic 
 countries at certain seasons. 
 
 VOL. II. o 
 
 .■^ 
 
210 
 
 STEAM BATH. 
 
 then place their right hand on their heart, and kiss 
 each other with something like affection. 
 
 The streets of Patras are very narrow, and being 
 never cleaned, are disgustingly filthy ; the shops 
 are quite contemptible ; the roofs of the houses 
 almost meet, which, no doubt, is intended for shade 
 in this warm climate j but the air, corrupted by 
 various nuisances below, can hardly find a way 
 to escape. The Turks and Greeks sit under shel- 
 ter on the outside of the steps, and appear as if 
 they had no concern or employment to engage 
 their thoughts. It is well they have some baths, to 
 which the better sort of people occasionally resort. 
 The common class are filthy beyond measure, and 
 the cloth they wear next their skin, is seldom 
 changed or washed ! 
 
 It is generally the steam bath which is used at 
 Patras. The steam is introduced, in almost suffo- 
 cating abundance, into an apartment in which there 
 is a reclining seat : the person who receives the 
 bath places himself in this seat, and a Greek in at- 
 tendance proceeds to pull the joints of the fingers 
 and toes, and places one hand under the middle of 
 the back ; with the other he presses the breast, till 
 he makes the joints of the back to crack. The 
 whole body is thus at once loosened, and while the 
 skin is soft, it is rubbed violently with a bag Jituffed 
 with cotton, till the cuticle peels off*, as our infor- 
 mer emphatically said, like macaroni/ We were 
 
 10 
 
 FIIAGMENTS OF MARBLES. 
 
 211 
 
 advised to take this bath as an excellent preparative 
 for the fatigues which we were about to encounter, 
 but we preferred bathing in the waters of the ocean, 
 wliich is in this country an inexpressible luxury. 
 
 In the wall of one of the baths we perceived a 
 beautiful capital of an ancient marble column, a 
 circumstance which might in some degree have 
 been expected here, considering the demolition of 
 the number of temples which adorned this place 
 in ancient times, from the celebrated one of Diana, 
 mentioned by Pausanias, to others of inferior note. 
 In the walls of the castle, too, we saw some frao-- 
 ments of precious marbles and sculptured orna- 
 ments : particulariy on the south side, there is a 
 torso of a male figure of admirable workmanship, 
 built in a hollow like the recess of a window, 
 which shews tliat, notwithstanding all that has been 
 said of the barbarism of the Greeks and Turks, 
 they are not without some esteem for sculpture. 
 The Earl of Guildford was desirous to purchase it, 
 but they demanded too high a price. On the east 
 side of the castle we saw the remains of a female 
 figure without head or arms, the drapery extreme- 
 ly beautiful. 
 
 We find the people in Patras a little sceptical 
 regarding the pounding down of the ancient statues 
 for the pui-pose of making lime, although there 
 are but few visible remains ; excavation would pro • 
 bably bring many interesting marbles to light. 
 
0\C} 
 
 REMOVAL OF SCULPTUUE. 
 
 Some columns peeping through the earth, and the 
 well-known site of many buildings, point to the 
 places where the spade might be successfully ap- 
 plied : the extensive pavement, too, in the garden 
 of the French consul, offers much for speculation. 
 For centuries past, there has been a trade in the 
 antiquities of Greece, both in medals and sculp- 
 ture. AVhatever relics could be picked up, readi- 
 ly found purchasers among the strangers and mer- 
 chants who visit this interesting country ; conse- 
 quently, they are spread over a great part of Europe, 
 and there is hardly a collection of any note, which 
 cannot boast of some specimens of Grecian art. 
 ^Vhen all this is considered, it appears surprising 
 that any valuable remains should still be found, in 
 a country where so little pains Is taken to make 
 discoveries by excavation. Gitcian marbles and 
 coins may sometimes be purchased at Rome, Paris, 
 London, or even Petersburg, at as cheap a rate as 
 in this country. 
 
 The removal of the sculpture from the Temple 
 of Minerva, in the Acropolis of Athens, seems to 
 have had the effect of setting other people with 
 more spirit to the work of destruction. It is true, 
 the Turkish government have, since that event, 
 issued a prohibition against taking down any mar- 
 bles whatever, but the Sublime Porte cannot at all 
 times command obedience. An ancient gate at 
 Ephesus has been robbed a short time since of its 
 
 REMOVAL OF SCULPTURE. 
 
 213 
 
 principal beauties. An English gentleman, who is 
 here at present, employed a Greek to take down 
 the frieze, and was successful. A noted chief, to 
 shew his independence of the government, resist- 
 ed a firman of the (jrand Signer, which was in 
 favour of a certain great collector. The English 
 gentleman above mentioned, however, with whom 
 we are acquainted, took a surer method to obtain 
 his object, by engaging a wily Greek to apply to 
 the chief himself; by this scheme he got what the 
 finnan of the Grand Signor could not command. 
 The frieze is supposed to be the work of Scopas, 
 and represents the Death of Hector; one piece 
 being cracked, was left behind, the Greek suppos- 
 ing it, on that account, to be of little value. The 
 rogue displayed some ingenuity in taking down 
 these marbles, though at first he was somewhat in 
 despair. By means of brushwood placed in an in- 
 clined manner to the top of the gate, he mounted, 
 and with some assistance the frieze was rolled 
 down to the ground without the smallest injury. 
 These precious relics are now in London, that 
 great receptacle of the spoils of Greece. The re- 
 ward which the Greek got for all his trouble was a 
 golden telescope ! 
 
 The port of Patras is not very secure ; and is, 
 indeed, rather a road than a harbour. By a strano-e 
 policy, the Turks subject the commerce of their 
 own subjects to higher duties than that of foreio-n- 
 
214 
 
 PORT OF PATRAS. — CONSULS. 
 
 m 
 
 ers. The custom-house duty is four per cent, on 
 the goods of subjects of the Porte ; while only 
 three per cent, is paid by the Franks. Some of the 
 merchants here are opulent, and, for a Greek 
 town, Patras enjoys a considerable share of com- 
 merce. Several of the nations of Europe are re- 
 presented at Patras by consuls. Those who are 
 now here are a French consul, (M. Pouqueville, 
 brother of the traveller in the Morea,) a consul for 
 Russia, who is a Greek, a Swedish, a Dutch, and 
 an English consul. The English consulate is in 
 the disposal of the Levant Company, but fre- 
 quently the consul is reconnnended by our ambas- 
 sador to the Porte : it is said to be a situation of 
 some emolument. 
 
 The consuls with whom we have conversed com- 
 plain of the expence of living, which seems greatly 
 to exceed what we could have imagined. The 
 price of butchers' meat averages from sixty to eighty 
 paras the oca, a weight somewhat less than three 
 pounds avoirdupois; so that it fluctuates from 
 fourpence to sixpence a pound. In Arcadia, we 
 have been informed, it is cheaper by one half; nor, 
 indeed, can it be supposed, that, at sucli a rate, it 
 would be an object of purchase any ,where in the 
 interior of (ireece. At the same time, it is to be 
 recollected, that animal food can scarcely be called 
 one of the necessaries of life to a Greek, whose 
 habits are naturally abstemious, and who is debarred 
 
 CLIMATE. MALARIA. 
 
 215 
 
 from such food during a large portion of the year, 
 by the injunctions of his religion. The currants 
 of Patras, we are told, are in greater estimation 
 than those of the islands. The currant-vine con- 
 tinues to bear to a great age ; some stocks for about 
 eighty years. 
 
 The climate of Patras is exceedingly sultry in the 
 summer months, and the Frank inhabitants find it 
 sometimes necessary, for recruiting their health, to 
 retire to the country among the mountains. Mala- 
 ria is prevalent at certain seasons, in many parts of 
 Greece ; the coasts of the Morea are much infested 
 by it, so are parts of Boetia and Thessaly ; the part of 
 Albania which lies opposite to Corfu, and likewise 
 the plain of Marathon. It was so bad at Gastouni, 
 a place of some trade on the coast of the Morea, that 
 the gentleman who was appointed our vice-consul 
 there told us he should live in the mountainous dis- 
 trict, and only go to the port of Gastouni when 
 business should call him thither. 
 
 Where there are ancient ruins, it is often to be 
 expected in a particular degree ; for such ruins 
 being composed, or connected with, remains of an- 
 cient baths, and aqueducts, there is frequently con- 
 fined water in the neighbourhood. Malaria, in si- 
 milar situations in Italy, may likewise be expected 
 to prevail. The plague is sometimes imported into 
 Patras, in consequence of its commercial inter- 
 course with Alexandria; but that dreadful scourge 
 
 '■A 
 
'216 
 
 GREEK WEDDING. 
 
 GREEK AVEDDING. 
 
 217 
 
 had not been felt for a considerable time previous 
 to our arrival. 
 
 To-day we went to the wedding of a Greek lady, 
 daughter of the first physician. As the ceremony 
 was curious, I shall attempt to describe it to you. 
 Cloves and nutmegs, wrapped up in a small parcel, 
 were left at the house of the consul where we lived, 
 and this is the mode of invitation to a wedding: at 
 Patras. The poorer class leave only cloves, nutmegs 
 being dear. When we arrived at the door of the 
 court-yard, we found the physician's janissary in 
 waiting in a rich robe of scarlet ; his pistols of em- 
 bossed silver, stuck in his silk girdle, were opposed 
 to a vest of blue velvet trimmed with gold lace ; his 
 turban, short petticoat, and trowsers, were of the 
 purest white, and his gaiters were of scarlet velvet 
 embroidered with gold : his dress, indeed, might 
 have suited a prince. Every farthing which these 
 servants receive in wages is laid out on clothes, and 
 they contrive to preserve them well. 
 
 The court before the house was miserable and 
 dirty, and the house itself had a very mean ap- 
 pearance. We ascended by a broad ladder, and 
 found the mother of the bride, with some other 
 ladies, standing in the entry, but they did not 
 seem to take any part in the ceremony of receiving 
 the visitors. On entering the room where the 
 marriage ceremony was performed, we found the 
 fiither of the lady, a fine looking old man, dressed 
 
 in rich robes, with a cylinder cap of fur, like a 
 large nmfF, seated on his divan or sofa, which was 
 about nine feet broad, and went all round the room, 
 provided with cushions at the back. To this we 
 were conducted, and found ourselves raised about 
 eighteen inches from the floor. W^e squatted down 
 like the Greeks, with our legs under us, when a 
 handsome and elegant attendant in robes of blue 
 and purple stepped forward, and presented each of 
 us with a long pipe, which we smoked, talking and 
 signing to each other as well as we could, in testi- 
 mony of our pleasure. The room was wretchedly 
 furnished ; a few coarse wooden chairs, all different 
 in fashion and size, a wooden clock, a press, thiee 
 or four barbarous pictures of the Virgin and Child, 
 and the Apostles, the faces and crowns of glory 
 done in raised tin, and the drapery with ptint. 
 Shortly after our arrival, seven or eight priests with 
 long beards entered, dressed in black ; a small 
 rickety table being then brought to the middle of 
 the room, the robes of the priests, wrapped up in 
 bundles, were laid on it, and opened by the priests. 
 The dresses were different, but all highly orna- 
 mented with flowers and embroidery. When their 
 ordinary dress was concealed by their canonicals, 
 these ecclesiastics looked pretty well. 
 
 A large book was put upon the table, with some 
 wine in a tumbler, and a roll of bread. Then 
 entered the bridegroom, a man about fifty, in 
 
 5 
 
 
m 
 
 SI 8 
 
 GREEK WEDDING. 
 
 a pelisse of pale blue, and white loose Dutch- 
 looking breeches ; his turban as white as snow, 
 and whiskers of tremendous size ! Next appeared 
 the lady ; about thirty years of age, short, and 
 rather pretty. Her hair, which was hardly to be 
 discovered through the profusion of golden and 
 gilded ornaments, hung down behind, mixed with 
 threads of gold, as low as her haunches. Across 
 her forehead was a band, on which were fixed va- 
 rious gold coins. She wore a dark purple pelisse 
 edged with fur, under which was a short vest of 
 white silk, richly embroidered ; a zone of silk, with 
 richly embossed clasps, like small saucers, encircled 
 the lower part of her waist, and hung down upon 
 her loins. She looked very shy and modest. Every 
 eye was fixed upon her. Behind her stood her 
 mother holding her up; the good okl lady's hair was 
 dyed red, the favourite colour of hair in Greece. 
 
 The ceremony, as nearly as I can recollect, was 
 as follows. One of the priests took up some frank- 
 incense, which was lighted in a censer; he then 
 wafted the smoke among his brethren. Two wax 
 candles, lighted, were given to the bride and bride- 
 groom by another priest, which they kissed; they 
 also kissed his hand; the candles were then put 
 down, and the same priest read prayers. The ring's 
 were then produced, and placed upon the book, 
 with which the priest advanced, and asked the re- 
 spective parties if they desired to be maiTied. 
 
 GREEK WEDDIXG. 
 
 ^19 
 
 Upon receiving their answer in the affirmative, he 
 touched their heads three times with their rings, 
 which were delivered to the person who gave aw'Iy 
 the bride. This person (the Austrian consul; 
 put them on the finger of each, changing them 
 three times alternately from the biide and bride- 
 groom. Then the description of the marriage of 
 Cana in Galilee was read in a chaunting Tone. 
 Both seemed much aflTected, and I thought the 
 poor bride , would faint. 
 
 Matrimonial crowns were placed upon their heads, 
 and a more whimsical and ridiculous sight I never 
 saw. These crowns were of a conical form, composed 
 of the merest tinsel, gold leaf and spim glass. They 
 were changed from one head to the other three times: 
 The rings were taken off by the priest, and again 
 replaced. While six of the priests were singing the 
 service, the seventh took up the roll of bread^and 
 cut out two small pieces, which he put into the 
 wine. The sacrament was then administered, and 
 prayers and chaunting recommenced. While this 
 was going on, the bride and bridegroom were led 
 three times round the table, in the slowest possible 
 manner ; looking like condemned criminals, and 
 fully as melancholy as if they had been going to 
 be hanged. At that time smoke from the frank- 
 mcense was wafted in great profusion among the 
 spectators. When the ceremony was finished, the 
 father kissed his son and daughter, as likewise 
 
 
QQO 
 
 GREEK WEDDING. 
 
 did most of their friends. Still the chaunting 
 continued, while the priests were unrobing and 
 packing up their canonicals in bundles, like so 
 many pedlars folding up their wares. The bride 
 and bridegroom marched off with their precious 
 crowns upon their heads. "^ They are to live to- 
 gether at the lady's father's for eight days, at the 
 expiration of which the lady goes to her husband's 
 house in full procession, with her presents and 
 clothes carried before her on horseback, and exhi- 
 bited to the people. I shall give you an account of 
 one of these processions in my next letter. 
 
 * A finer subject than a Greek weddinj; can hardly be 
 imagined for the [lencil of Mr William Allan, whose talent 
 in painting such scenes will immortalize his name. I am happy 
 to observe, that he is calling; in the aid of the burin to 
 make his works more generally known ; and that he has met 
 with an engraver so well qualified to do justice to his finest 
 productions as his townsman, Mr James Stewart. The style 
 in which that very promising artist has engraved Mr Allan's 
 beautiful little picture of the Tartar Bandittiy may well war- 
 rant the expectation, that his j)late of the celebrated painting 
 of the Circassian Captives^ will be, in every respect, an in. 
 teresting production of art. 
 
 I 
 
 LETTER LIl. 
 
 PATRAS. 
 
 Rrocession of a neivl^-married Ladj to her Husband's House, 
 —Greek Fast of Lent — Turkish Fast of Ramazan.— 
 Honourable dealings of the Turks contrasted iiith the 
 Knavery of the Greeks.— Indolence of the Turks —Mode 
 
 of Sepulture,— Cemeteries.— Greek Dances Fonale Slaves. 
 
 — Partiality to the English — Views frotn Patrus Annual 
 
 Procession to the River Meilichus.—Mode of Buildino:^ 
 Intermarriages of Turks and Greeks, 
 
 In my last letter, I promised to give you some ac- 
 count of the procession of a newly-married lady to 
 her husband's house. While walking amidst a mul- 
 titude of women and children, she was supported 
 by two females ; and seemed to lean her whole 
 weight upon them, as if about to sink to the ground. 
 On her head was a prodigious cushion or pad, 
 stuck full of trumpery flowers made of paper ; her 
 cheeks, eye-brows, and lips, were daubed over with 
 gold-leaf; and her hair, interwoven with skeins of 
 brown silk, hung down behind and before. She 
 walked very slowly, and a boy carried a mirror be- 
 fore her, in which she was obliged to look occa- 
 sionally, as a symbol of the regard thenceforth due 
 even to her external carriage and conduct. 
 
 The Greek marriages are generally celebrated 
 
 £ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
222 
 
 FASTS. — COMMERCIAL DEALINGS. 
 
 INDOLENCE OF THE TURKS. 
 
 223 
 
 after a fast, and chiefly on the first day after its 
 expiration. 
 
 Tlieir Lent of 48 days ends at Easter, and is 
 very rigidly observed, not admitting even of fish, 
 unless they are bloodless, such as oysters, ink-fish, 
 and caviare. Next comes the Lent of the Apostles, 
 which continues generally S9 days, but varies both 
 in its term and duration. Fish may be used of 
 every kind. The fast of the blessed Virgin fol- 
 lows in August ; it lasts 15 days, and is very rigid- 
 ly observed. The concluding fast of 40 days ter- 
 minates at Christmas. Fish may be eaten with- 
 out reserve, except on Wednesday and Friday. 
 One hundred and forty-two days of the year are 
 thus occupied in fasts. The higher classes, how- 
 ever, are not very scrupulous in rcgai'd to them, 
 but the lower orders keep them with a severity 
 prejudicial to their health. The Turks, at the fast 
 of the Ramazan, neither eat, drink, nor smoke, 
 till sunset, but they are veiy impatient till then, 
 constantly fidgeting and holding their watches in 
 their hands. Apoplexy is common among them, 
 proceeding, it is supposed, from the great use of 
 spice and other indulgences. 
 
 In their dealings, the Turks are considered ex- 
 tremely honourable ; their word may be depended 
 on, and they have great confidence in others. They 
 even refuse to take a receipt from those whom they 
 can trust. The Greeks, on the contrary, are said to 
 
 be full of deceit and low cunning, often accusing 
 each other, and fermenting quarrels in an under- 
 hand way, for the purpose of obtaining money ; 
 when this is discovered by the Turks, it occasions 
 their being very roughly handled. The Frank in- 
 habitants, in particular, rate the moral character of 
 the Greeks extremely low ; we hear dreadful in- 
 stances both of the profligacy and ferocity of their 
 manners in the domestic circles of the wealthier 
 merchants, and their want of honesty in commer- 
 cial dealings is proverbial. Nothing but their for- 
 lorn situation, under such masters, can induce us 
 to make any allowance for this conduct, if the 
 charge against them be not unfounded, or greatly 
 exaggerated. Patras is one of those towns in which 
 the Turks are considered to act with more despotic 
 rule over the Greeks than is usual to them. 
 
 The Turks, though inferior to the Greeks in 
 mind, are cleanly in their habits, and fond of the 
 bath. Positive indolence has the highest charms 
 for them : give them their pipe and coffee, and 
 they will sit for hours almost without speaking, go- 
 ing fully into the sentiment, that, where '' igno- 
 rance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." They seldom 
 sing, considering it much beneath their dignity ; 
 if, however, they do happen to sound their voice, 
 they bellow on a note or two, without melody or 
 expression. When they pray, they pronounce the 
 word Alia, (God,) while they bend their heads. 
 
 5) 
 
 •J 
 rj 
 
224 
 
 MODK OF SEPULTURE. 
 
 M 
 
 then they fall on their knees, and lastly, they in- 
 cline their heads to the very ground, saying, Alia ! 
 Alia ! Alia ! in the most solemn and impressive 
 manner. 
 
 When a Turk dies, he is washed with milk- 
 warm water, and clothed in linen, cotton is put 
 between the thumb and finger, and gently laid on 
 his eyes, nose, and mouth ; on the bosom is placed 
 a paper, enumerating his good deeds, and recom- 
 mending him to the prophet. When the body 
 is interred, a board is placed diagonally over it, 
 from the head to the foot of the grave, so that, in 
 many instances, a part of the board projects above 
 the earth. The Turks alone can have upright 
 monuments annexed to the horizontal tomb-stone. 
 Those of the Greeks, Jews, Franks, and Armenians, 
 are all flat, but of different construction. The monu- 
 ments of the Turkish females, too, are unlike those 
 of the males. According to the size and appear- 
 ance of the turban placed at the head of the grave, 
 the age and rank of the deceased Turk is denoted. 
 Square holes are cut through the slab which is laid 
 on every grave, to allow, it is said, the soul to have 
 communication with the body, if it should think 
 proper to make a journey from the skies. You 
 will perceive then, that the Turks allow the females 
 to have souls, though they rarely educate them to 
 have ideas. The burying-ground at Patras is a 
 novel object to a stranger from Catholic or Protest- 
 
 
 3) 
 

 
 GREEK DANCES. 
 
 225 
 
 ant Europe, to the cemeteries of which, a Turkish 
 cemetery has no resemblance. The monumental 
 stones, which are, in many instances, the remains 
 of ancient edifices, will not fail to attract the tra- 
 veller's attention. 
 
 We have seen a couple of Greek dances, which 
 afforded us considerable amusement. The first 
 was circular, and was performed by men, each hold- 
 ing the hands of those next him. The air to which 
 they moved had a very limited range of notes, and 
 was played on a kind of pipe, while a drum beat 
 time. Each person sung it in succession, and 
 moved round with considerable gesticulation, the 
 person at the head threading every opening. This 
 dance is supposed to have some resemblance to that 
 introduced by Theseus, to commemorate the de- 
 struction of the Minotaur in the Cretan labyrinth. 
 The second dance was something like the first, cir- 
 cular, and performed by men, but the music was 
 more like a Scotch lilt ; each person had a hand- 
 kerchief in his hand, which was held likewise by 
 his neighbours on each side; under this they stooped, 
 and then sprung up with great activity. In the first 
 dance instrumental music was joined by the voice, the 
 second was performed to instrumental music alone. 
 At a little distance from this scene of merri- 
 ment, a number of women were sitting together, 
 muffled up to their noses, and seemed to take no 
 part in the amusement, except merely as spectators, 
 
 VOL. II. p 
 
 4 
 
c 
 
 -jr 
 
 GREEK DANCES. 
 
 225 
 
 ant Europe, to the cemeteries of which, a Turkish 
 cemetery lias no resemblance. The monumental 
 stones, which are, in many instances, the remains 
 of ancient edifices, will not fail to attract the tra- 
 veller's attention. 
 
 We have seen a couj)le of Greek dances, which 
 afforded us considerable amusement. The first 
 was circular, and was performed by men, each hold- 
 n)g the hands of those next him. The air to which 
 they moved had a very limited ran-e of notes, and 
 was played on a kind of pipe, while a drum beat 
 tune. Each person sung it in succession, and 
 moved round with considerable gesticulation, the 
 person at the head threading every opening. This 
 dance is supposed to have some resemblance to that 
 introduced by Theseus, to commemorate the de- 
 struction of the Minotaur in the Cretan labyrinth. 
 The second dance was something like the first, cir- 
 cular, ami performed by men, but the music 'was 
 more like a Scotch lilt ; each person had a hand- 
 kerchief in his hand, which was held likewise by 
 hisneighbours on each side; under this they stooped, 
 and then sj)rung up with great activity. In the first 
 dance instrumental music was joined by the voice, the 
 second was performed to instrumental music alone. 
 At a little distance from this scene of merri- 
 ment, a number of women were sitting together, 
 muffled up to their noses, and seemed to take no 
 part in the amusement, except merely as spectators. 
 
 VOL. II, p 
 
 as* ^^Suw^tMeiJ'*. "^ t^^^ ^^rt • ^^jt. . 
 
226 
 
 PARTIALITY TO THE ENGLISH. 
 
 The refreshment was bread, dried eggs, and wine, 
 drawn from a goat or pig's skin. On returning 
 to the consul's we met a party of gypsies enjoy- 
 ing themselves, and apparently as happy as if the 
 world had been their own. 
 
 A striking contrast to the gaiety of this free 
 and light-hearted people, was the melancholy spec- 
 tacle of a young female exposed to sale. She was 
 sold for 80 crowns ; and a gleam of delight passed 
 over her dejected countenance at the idea of going 
 to another master in a different part of the country. 
 A fair, beautiful, young, and plump Circassian, 
 has been known to bring 3000 crowns, and even 
 
 more. 
 
 On walking through the town with Mr D. his 
 tartan cloak seemed to catch the fancy of the in- 
 habitants ; every eye was pleased with it, and he 
 was repeatedly asked if it was made of handker- 
 chiefs sewed together. In no instance have we 
 perceived the slightest intention to insult us ; on 
 the contrary, both Turk and Greek paid the high- 
 est compliments to the English, constantly exclaim- 
 ing, J5ono Inglese ! When I was drawing from a 
 situation near the castle, a number of them flock- 
 ed around me. Tliey offered every kind of ser- 
 vice, cleared the way of a hundred little tur- 
 baned boys, who were anxious to see what I was 
 about ; one held my gloves, another my drawing 
 materials, and when I gave a pencil to a Greek 
 
 10 
 
 PROCESSION TO THE MEILICHUS. 2^7 
 
 Who seemed particularly interested witfi my perfor- 
 mance, I never saw a man so much delighter 
 
 Ihe opposite coast of Albania, across the gulf 
 of Lepanto, is particularly striking. Bluff moun- 
 tain promontories and conical hills rise in great 
 
 c3' T''"*''^ ^'"^^ *^^ -^ -^^^ oC 
 
 capped with snow, retire in the distant regions 
 Te scene of the great sea fight of 157I, in E 
 the Turks were defeated, shews its blue expanse 
 of waters with many a white sail, stealing toC 
 
 and Santa Maura, which are just perceptible i.^ 
 their robes of azure. From the subordinate hills 
 entirely composed of clay, sand, puddingstone 
 and marine shells, striated and water-worn,' thle 
 are numberless beautiful views. The rLins of 
 Roman aqueducts, and other masses of ancient 
 bu,,di„g a features which the painter would" 
 
 cal ei Me? ""'' "'^ '^'^' ^^^ '"^^ «'-am 
 called Meilichus, too, there is ample subject for 
 
 .tui^; and here one might even^e peitd 
 a Ittle classical decoration. The young people 
 st.ll go in procession to this stream and deport 
 
 carry with them a gariand of ivy, which they lay 
 on he ancient foundations of the temple of Bac' 
 chus The origin of this procession is of an- 
 -nt date, and as neariy as I can recollect, is 
 this. A youth fell in We with a nymph of 
 
 
 3) 
 
 '. . ■f--:.'S-,av, 
 
228 
 
 3I0DE OF BUILDING, 
 
 Diana, and ravished her. The goddess was 
 much enraged, and sent a pestilence to the land ; 
 the oracle of Delphi was consulted, as to what 
 should be done to appease the wrath of Diana, and 
 it was directed that a young man and woman 
 should be annually sacrificed near the stream, till a 
 statue of Bacchus should appear. This barbarous 
 practice was continued for a considerable time, and 
 the river, on that account, was called Ameilichus, 
 (or the Implacable ;J a statue and temple of Bac- 
 chus however appearing, the sacrifices were given 
 up, and the name of the river was thenceforth call- 
 ed Meilichus, f Placable. J Now, is not this a 
 lucky circumstance for a painter, to embellish and 
 give a superior air to his pictures ? 
 
 This country is subject to earthquakes ; the 
 houses, therefore, are generally built of wood, mud, 
 and straw, which are considered safer than stone 
 and lime, against the rocking motion of the ground. 
 The minarets, which are built of stone, are deem- 
 ed insecure. The largest is rent from top to bot- 
 tom. This mode of building with wood and clay, 
 which, by the way, is common over a great part of 
 Greece, must prove a considerable preservative to 
 the marble remains. Innumerable hawks nestle 
 unmolested in the roofs of the wretched buildings, 
 and in the castle walls : for these birds the inha- 
 bitants seem to entertain a degree of respect. 
 
 Occasionally a Turk marries into a Greek fami- 
 
 INTERMARRIAGES OF TURKS AND GREEKS. 2^9 
 
 ly, and the lady is allowed to follow her own reli- 
 gion, but the children must adopt that of their 
 father. When a child is christened, it is stripped, 
 and plunged over head and ears in water, then it 
 is carefully dried, and the priest dips his finger in- 
 to a vessel containing oil, which he places on the 
 crown of its head, eyes, mouth, palms of the hand, 
 the soles of its feet and navel : the name is then 
 given, and prayers and chaunting finish the cere- 
 mony. Divorces are obtained through the Patri- 
 arch, and sometimes the bishop has the power to 
 grant one. 
 
 We are now preparing for our departure to 
 Delphi, from whence I shall write you soon. 
 
JOURNEY TO VOSTIZZA. 
 
 231 
 
 LETTER LIII. 
 
 VOSTIZZA. 
 
 Journeij from Patras to Vostizza, anciently jEgium, 
 
 We found it difficult to leave our hospitable friends 
 at Patras ; and it required considerable resolution 
 to prepare for our departure. Having, however, 
 determined to lose no time in proceeding to Vos- 
 tizza, our horses and mules were assembled, and 
 though, certainly, we could not boast of having the 
 most respectable appearance, I may venture to say, 
 that no painter could complain of any want of the 
 picturesque. The poor animals appeared so galled 
 and miserable, that we could hardly persuade our- 
 selves they could go through a journey of eight long 
 hours, without repeatedly stumbling under their 
 burthens, and risking our lives. But we were 
 told they would do their business tolerably, and we 
 were not altogether deceived. Our party consist- 
 ed of six people ; that is to say, our janissary, ser- 
 vant, two mule drivers, Mr D. and myself. Our 
 beds were a quite sufficient load for one poor animal, 
 
 and our canteens, provisions, and trunks, for a couple 
 more. The charge for each horse, seven in number, 
 might be about 4s. 6d. ; this sum also covering the 
 expences of the drivers. It was necessary to make 
 a contract before setting out, for really, to do the 
 Greeks all manner of justice, they are not a little 
 expert at imposition. The sum I have mentioned 
 does not include our janissary and servant, who 
 have each 4s. 6d. a-day, out of which sum they 
 must provide themselves with every necessary. On 
 ridding ourselves of the clamour and confusion of 
 strange tongues, and trusting the future to the di- 
 rection of our faithful guide, who, I must mention, 
 had the necessary qualification of scolding like a 
 hero, in the language of the country, we proceeded 
 on our journey in full confidence, and free of all 
 annoyances. Our janissary rode behind, to see 
 that all was right, and with a long whip kept his 
 troops in constant motion. 
 
 In Greece, a journey is generally computed by 
 time ; their tracks or ways have no measured miles. 
 No cart could travel them, and, indeed, I do 
 not believe there is a single vehicle of this de- 
 scription in the whole country. We had not 
 proceeded to any distance, before perceiving the 
 wretchedness of the peasantry who inhabit these 
 wilds. Their conical huts are merely formed of 
 poles of trees rudely put together, and covered with 
 turf. Furniture they have none ; a mat to lie up. 
 
 f 
 
 It: 
 
232 
 
 JOURNEY TO VOSTIZZA. 
 
 VOSTIZZA. 
 
 Q33 
 
 on, and a few culinary utensils, is all they seem to 
 require. The few cattle we saw were half starved, 
 and the plough a piece of wood ! During the 
 second hour of our journey, the mountains to the 
 right, composed of puddingstone, assumed finer 
 forms. Those on the other side of the Gulf of 
 Lepanto were always interesting ; the intennediate 
 grounds, however, had no features to combine 
 with them ; nor, indeed, till we came opposite to 
 the castles of Morea and Roumelia, (which guard 
 the strait on opposite sides,) was the landscape quite 
 complete. Naupactus smiled in the distant view. 
 The streams are numerous, but much discoloured ; 
 very unlike those which rush with sparkling fuiy 
 from the heathy mountains of Scotland. They 
 have, however, high sounding names, which, though 
 they say nothing to the eye, address the mind. 
 These Grecian streams, in their violence, have laid 
 waste great tracks of countiy, and polished many 
 a lovely pebble of every form and colour. To- 
 wards the close of the fourth hour, and near the 
 half-way han, a waterfall presents itself, not unlike 
 those denominated grey mares tails in England ; 
 but how inferior in beauty ! Yet, as it reminded us 
 of home, it was pleasing to our hearts, and welcom- 
 ed as a friend ! Proceeding through wastes of tall 
 heath and brushwood, we at last reached the half- 
 way han. The inhabitants appeared sickly, but 
 they were kind, and invited us to sit down on 
 
 bundles of rags. We did so, but were instantly as- 
 sailed by vermin, which obliged us to retreat. Con- 
 sidering the appearances of our cavalry, we marvel- 
 led much they have done so well, having stumbled 
 only twice in four hours. Shortly after leaving our 
 han, there were some ludicrous scenes of stumbling 
 and falling of bag and baggage. Down fell a 
 driver, and in the act of scolding the poor Greek, 
 our janissary ! lastly. Carlo must needs yield to his 
 horse, who fell in the middle of a rapid river. 
 This last affair alarmed us much, but fortune fa- 
 voured both man and horse against the turbulence 
 of the wicked waters. In general, the animals 
 went best in the worst of roads ! and the ruts and 
 ways which appeared to us alarming, never dis- 
 couraged them ; they picked their way with care, 
 and seldom erred. In the plains they were less 
 attentive, and it was only then they were in dan- 
 ger of falling on their knees. 
 
 Towards the end of our journey, when the 
 shades of night were deepening, the minarets of 
 Vostizza appeared before us, against a solemn 
 gloomy sky. A few copper-coloured, and dusky 
 streaks of light, told us that the day was near a 
 close. 
 
 Vostizza may be about 22 miles from Patras, 
 and the streams and rivers we passed are supposed 
 to represent the Meilichus, Charadrus, Solemnus, 
 and Bolinaeus, fraught with recollections of ancient 
 
 !i 
 
234 
 
 VOSTIZZA. 
 
 VOSTIZZA. 
 
 Q35 
 
 story. The ancient towns of Argyra, Bolinae, and 
 Rhypes, and even ancient Patrae, all which graced 
 these shores in days of old, are gone ; and not a 
 vestige remains to shew where they stood. 
 
 In Vostizza we have chosen the house of Sign or 
 Panaiotti for our residence ; he is polite and kind, 
 which, in this distant country, where home is far 
 away, conveys unutterable things. We occupy 
 his best room, which I cannot say is quite so 
 fashionable as some we have seen in England, 
 yet for weary travellers it is very well. Let me 
 describe it to you. In size, it may be about ^^0 
 feet by 15 ; along the sides, and at the top, are 
 placed divans or sofas, about 10 inches high, and 
 5 feet in breadth ; cushions are placed behind to 
 recline upon, and I wish I could say they were 
 a little cleaner than we find them. A clumsy 
 wooden chest stands at the bottom of the room, 
 and near the door an infirm table of rude con- 
 struction, the cross bars being made of pieces of 
 wood not even planed. These precious articles, 
 together with a few skeins of yarn, some two- 
 penny-looking prints of monks, and the Virgin 
 and Child, and a little piece of mirror, compose 
 the whole furniture. The walls are of rude un- 
 plastered masonry, with a recess to hold some odds 
 and ends. From this Grecian chamber we de- 
 scend by a trap ladder, very like one of those 
 which we have to our common hav-lofts in ffood 
 
 old England, and find ourselves among the mules 
 and horses in the filthy court-yard. This house 
 of wood and clay is surrounded by an ill-constructed 
 gallery ; but above the porch, built in the side-wall, 
 IS a most beautiful ancient basso-relievo, represent- 
 ing a Marriage. This gem of ancient art still re- ' 
 mmds the modem Greek of his degeneracy, and 
 while shmmg in its tomb of clay, shews what was, 
 and I trust what yet may be, the power of genius 
 in this dejected country ! 
 
 The streets, as you may be prepared to expect, 
 are narrow and dirty, and every thing indicates 
 a want of cleanliness in the inhabitants. I saw 
 a crowd of well-dressed Greeks around a fellow 
 who was killing a sheep, in the middle of the 
 street, while the blood and entrails of several others 
 besmeared the pavement of slippery pebbles. Gut- 
 ters and puddles of filth everywhere offend the 
 senses of sight and smell ; and it seems wonderful 
 that they should ever be free of pestilence. Where 
 is the government or iwlice that could suffer such 
 abomination, but in Greece ? Their shops have a 
 miserable appearance; yet I am told their cheese is 
 the best in the Morea, and that their currants, 
 gums, fish, oil, and silk, are all of excellent quali' 
 ty. I believe it so, but have not ventured into 
 those dens to ascertain the fact. The palms and 
 cypress trees are beautiful, accompanied by the 
 ocean and distant hills ; and what a relief it is to 
 
 »3 
 
 
236 
 
 VOSTIZZA. 
 
 VOSTIZZA. 
 
 237 
 
 dwell on them, from the jumble of clay and 
 wooden houses, nauseous smells, and barbarous 
 Turks ! True, they have their groves of olive, 
 and gardens of orange and lemon trees. Nature 
 is ever sweet and fair ! It is of man, the men of 
 Greece, that I complain. 
 
 No remains of antiquity are visible at Vostizza, 
 except some shapeless masses of reticulated walls of 
 brick. On excavation, however, an Englishman 
 found two statues without heads. The mouths of 
 the ancient fountain led through some blind arches 
 of Gothic architecture, and near them is a great 
 plane tree, which, though not remarkable for beau- 
 ty in itself, assists in forming pictures, when joined 
 with Mount Parnassus in the distance. 
 
 On returning to our lodgings, we saw the lady 
 of the house. Her appearance was interesting. 
 Her fine oval face was lighted up mih large spark- 
 ling eyes, overarched with eyebrows strongly mark- 
 ed ; her complexion full, and her nose nearly aqui- 
 line ; but her mouth and neck was muffled up in 
 the most provoking manner. Beautiful auburn 
 hair fell upon her breast and back, mixed, as usual, 
 with silken threads ; above her forehead she wore 
 a golden band. A pelisse of green cloth, its short 
 sleeves trimmed with fur, was extremely becom- 
 ing. But less taste was displayed in the contract- 
 ing of her dress about her neck ; nor could I ad- 
 mire an opening of a triangular form, from her 
 
 breast to the bottom of the waist, shewin- her 
 chemise below. ^ 
 
 But here my description of our fair hostess must 
 stop, as we have to prepare to sail to-morrow for 
 Apollo's shrine, and the famed Ca^talian stream. 
 
 
LETTER LIV. 
 
 DELPHI. 
 
 Voyage to Scala^ and Journey to Delphi. 
 
 Delphty April I8I7. 
 V V HEN we had determined to leave Vostizza, we 
 heard of a Greek vessel about to sail for Scala, the 
 port of Salona. This was fortunate, and we hail- 
 ed the circumstance as a favourable omen to our 
 journey into Greece. With great despatch we en- 
 tered our little bark, undismayed by the violence 
 of the wind, and agitation of the sea. The hope 
 of being soon at Delphi smoothed every apprehen- 
 sion, and banished all our fears. We had advan- 
 ced but little way on the Crissean Sea, when the 
 wind increased and the waves rose in awful gran- 
 deur, sadly threatening our poor ship. Yet she 
 mounted them in safety, and glided through the 
 valleys of the waters, dashing the foam of the bro- 
 ken billows behind her shining prow. Tlien she 
 would pitch against the sea, and rise majestically on 
 the coursing and furious waves, which, in their 
 turn, were seized by the rough gale, robbed of 
 their foaming pinnacles, and left in deep Cerulean 
 
 VOYAGE TO SCALA. 
 
 2J9 
 
 green ; at times the sunbeams played among the 
 rioting waters, and dark and dismal billows opposed 
 the restless lights, carrying on their monstrous 
 breasts innumerable lesser waves, which with them 
 were soon engulphed ; a striking emblem of the 
 dependent multitude who follow in the train of a 
 mighty, but, at length, unfortunate chief, with him 
 to rise, and bustle, and shine for a moment, and 
 then to foil and be forgotten. Thank heaven, the 
 sickening gale soon ceased. Parnassus rose in 
 front, but neither it, nor the hills of Locri Ozolae, 
 could boast of majesty. In this respect, they 
 yielded to the mountains of the Morea, which ap- 
 peared extremely grand, some of tliem robed in 
 snow. Defiles, strange gaps, and chasms, came 
 nito view, pleasing yet awful. Gleams of light 
 streamed among the misty vales, and danced among 
 the rocks and woods, as to the music of the 
 waves ! Dolphins played about our ship, and rush- 
 ed along with amazing speed, darting on one side 
 under the vessel, and 'returning on the other. 
 Wlien near the shore, we perceived the squill in 
 full luxuriance among the rocks of limestone, 
 which were full of holes, and strangely honeycomb- 
 ed by the action of the sea, even a great way up 
 the mountain, which looked as if it had been long 
 exposed to the dashing waves. Sailing along the 
 creeks and windings of the rocky shore, we saw 
 some miserable huts and villages. We turned the 
 VOL. n. f 
 
^40 
 
 JOURNEY TO DELPHI. 
 
 Capes of Dromarki and Salona, and glanced the 
 port of Galaxithi. The town of Crisso then 
 came into view, seated on a slope of proud Par- 
 nassus, but too remote to be distinctly seen. Be- 
 yond, high nrags arose in noble forms, and in the 
 bosom of the vale were verdant pastures, finely di- 
 versified with rich olive groves. Projecting pro- 
 montories enriched the view, combining with Scala, 
 our landing-place, the port of Delphi and Salona. 
 On the shore were broken marbles lately brought 
 from Delphi ; *— the ruined symbols of its ancient 
 
 greatness. 
 
 The chariot of Phcebus was hastening to the ho- 
 rizon, when we commenced our journey for the 
 city of his most celebrated oracle. On passing 
 through a small defile the scenery burst upon us, 
 and appeared as if the god had arranged the vari- 
 ous forms of the stupendous mountains, to strike 
 the mind of his worshippers with deeper awe, as they 
 approached his hallowed shrine. Crisso, an exten- 
 sive village, is greatly elevated above the plain, 
 commanding what the dullest eye must dwell upon 
 with admiration. The poles which support the 
 roofs and galleries of the houses have a light eflfect, 
 aud might suggest a better style of architecture. 
 
 The near approach to Dephi, from the natural 
 
 ♦ A Torso of Bacchus, worthy of a pulishcrl age, and some 
 fragments of columns of little- >alur. The sea wa^ dashing 
 tiver thcni, dipoiiling a yellow mud. 
 
 JOURNEY TO DELPHI. 
 
 24,1 
 
 grandeur of the scenery, and from the numberless 
 associations connected with it. was almost over- 
 powering. When we climbed round the lofty pre- 
 cipices, those beautiful lines of Ossian perfectly de- 
 scribed the effect before us : 
 
 " The night was calm and fair ; blue, starry, 
 settled was the sky. The winds with the clouds 
 are gone ; they sink beneath the hill. The moon 
 IS up on the mountain. Bright is the stream of 
 the valley !" 
 
 We came at last to ancient tombs cut in the 
 rock which fronts the mountain Cirphis : all was 
 generalized, mysterious, and grand. We could 
 have imagined that the ghosts of the departed 
 were stalking before us. I threw myself into one 
 of the ancient cemeteries with sentiments of me- 
 lancholy. «« The pale traveller of night" shone 
 brightly in the heavens, smiling as she smiled 
 even before Apollo's shrine was here ! The rocks 
 of Castalia at last appeared, from the high and 
 mighty tops of which the eagle might almost have 
 feared to soar. 
 
 No sound was heard but from the barking dogs 
 of Delphi, alarmed at the stranger's tread at the 
 witching hour of night. The morning's light told 
 us that Delphi is no more. Its everlasting name 
 alone exists : Its boasted attractions are gone : Its 
 temple levelled with the dust : Its sacred fountain 
 infested with washerwomen : Its stadium just vi- 
 
 VOL. II. a 
 
2^2 
 
 DELPHI, 
 
 sible, and scarcely the foundations of any of those 
 buildings, which were an ornament to the world, 
 now perceptible above the ground. The reposi- 
 tories of the dead are broken up, and the tablets 
 which held the offerings of the ancients, grey time 
 and barbarism have not spared. 
 
 LETTER LV. 
 
 DELPHI. 
 
 Recepiion on our arrival at the Priest^s.^Description of his 
 Housc^Castalian Spring^^Chapel <>f St John,^Monas- 
 iery of Panagia, --Village of Castri.^Stadium.^Sepul- 
 chres Site of the Temple of Apollo.^ Desolation of 
 Delphi — Roch and Scenery, 
 
 Delphi, April I8I7. 
 My last letter brought you to this interesting 
 place ; but I was so much absorbed in the contem- 
 plation of its natural grandeur and its desolation, 
 that I could not bring my mind to give you the 
 particular details of its humble condition. In this 
 letter, ho^vever, I shall mention some of them, and 
 offer a few observations regarding the site of the 
 Temple of Apollo, which some, in the true spirit 
 of antiquarianism, will have in one place, and some 
 in another. My text shall be from Pausanias, and 
 after going over the ground, I shall leave you to 
 judge for yourself. In the meantime, let me tell 
 you of the reception we met with at the Papa's 
 (or priest's) of Castri, the modern name of 
 Delphi. 
 
 On our arrival here at night, we made our way 
 
 i)aitfa«Ra*a..»vt»j.~.-..:'i<a«8t«aag'gaf*-t-sji.M!-t-..- ~.'ei\ ■■v---^Mr»' -jtywir-j-j— l. -- --■« 
 
QU 
 
 RECEPTION IROM THE PRIEST. 
 
 up a ladder stair to the dwelling of the priest, who 
 is in the habit of accommodating strangers. It 
 was late, and the family had gone to rest. We 
 knocked a considerable time before any one came 
 to the door ; at last a gruff voice from within de- 
 manded what we wanted, and who we were. We 
 are Englishmen, desirous to have quarters : — No ! 
 was the reply, you cannot be admitted here ; an Eng- 
 lishman has used me ill. Mr D.'s servant Carlo, 
 who had been at Delphi, and lived a considerable 
 time in the house before, made himself known to 
 the priest, and for his sake the door was opened ; 
 but, had it not been for him, we should, in all pro- 
 bability, have remained without lodging during 
 the nio-ht. I was much surprised, that the be- 
 haviour of the Greek proceeded from our being 
 Englishmen ; but, upon inquiry, I found that a 
 quaiTel had arisen between him and one of our 
 countrymen, probably in consequence of some ex- 
 ti-avagant pecuniary demand which the latter chose 
 
 to resist. 
 
 When we got under his roof we found the 
 family, men, women, and children, lying on mats 
 on various parts of the floor, near the fire. We 
 were shewn into the adjoining apartment, a kind 
 of store room, where our beds were placed ; and 
 I think I never suflFered more from cold. The 
 morning light peeps through the roof itself, and 
 the planks of the floor arc at kast an inch asun- 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF HIS HOUSE, 
 
 245 
 
 der : but having determined to remain here, at 
 least a day or two, we put up blankets for screens, 
 and stuffed the windows with clothes to keep out 
 the howling wind. Remember we are elevat- 
 ed about 2000 feet above the sea, and the falling 
 snow whitens the summits of the surrounding, 
 mountains. ^ 
 
 As our breakfast is not quite ready, (tea which 
 we brought with us,) I shall have a moment to 
 look about the house, and give you some idea of 
 the comforts of a dwelling on Parnassus. The 
 room inhabited by the family (consisting of the 
 priest and his wife, an unmarried son and daugh- 
 ter, and his eldest son, with a wife and children) is 
 about 25 feet long ; no furniture, except a couple 
 of large chests ; a trough for making dough ; a 
 sieve; a few jars; about a dozen of mugs of va- 
 nous sizes, hung in a row ; a multiplicity of blan- 
 kets, occasionally used as cushions ; a shelf with 
 three books of scripture ; a wretched print of St 
 George and the Dragon, and another of a monk 
 with his eyes turned upwards, resembling our half- 
 penny prints in England. In going up to the 
 window, which was a square hole in the wall with- 
 out glass, I nearly trod a child to death, that was 
 lymg among a heap of filthy rags upon the floor. 
 The outer part of the house has a kind of gal 
 lery, hung round with goat-skins for holding wine 
 a barrel or two, and some sieves and bladders! 
 
24.G 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF HIS HOUSE. 
 
 The court-yard is hideous. Among the rubbish 
 are some remains of marble, and a piece of the 
 statue of Bacchus, which lies upon the shore. Now, 
 this is the most superb building in modern Delphi ! 
 How natural then is it to ask, Could it be here 
 that stood the sacred Temple of Apollo, alike dis- 
 tinguished by its external '* splendour, its internal 
 decorations, and by the immense riches which it 
 had acquired from the piety of its votaries ? Or, 
 according to the poet : 
 
 * According to Pausanias, " The pediments were adorn- 
 ed with Diana, and Apollo, and the Muses; the setting of 
 Phcebus or the sun ; with Bacchus, and the women called 
 Thyades. The architraves were decorated with golden ar- 
 mour, bucklers suspended by the Athenians after the battle 
 of Marathon, and shields taken from the Gauls under Brcn- 
 nus. In the portico were inscribed the celebrated maxims of 
 the Seven Sages of Greece. There was an image of Homer, 
 and in the cell was an altar of Neptune, with statues of the 
 Fates, and of Jupiter and Apollo, who were surnamcd 
 Leaders of the Fates. Near the hearth before the aliar, at 
 which Neoptolemus, the son of Achilles, was slain by a 
 priest, stood the iron chair of Pindar. In the sanctuary was 
 an image of Apollo gilded. The inclosure was of great ex- 
 tent, and filled with treasuries, in which many cities had 
 consecrated tenths of the spoil taken in war, and with the 
 public donations of renowned states in various ages. It was 
 the grand repository of Ancient Greece, in which the labours 
 of the sculptor and statuary, gods, heroes, and illustrious 
 persons, were seen collected and arranged ; the inequalities of 
 the area, or acclivity, contributing to a full display of the 
 noble assemblage."— CAflwc?/er, p. 295, 296, Vol. I. 
 
 CASTALIAN SPRr>JG. 
 
 ** Achalan marble form'd the gorgeous pile, 
 August the fabric, elegant the style I 
 On brazen hinges turn'd the silver doors ; 
 And chequer'd marble pav'd the polish'd floors. 
 The roofs, where storied tablature appear'd, 
 On columns of Corinthian mould were rear'd: 
 Of shining porphyry the shafts were fram'd, 
 And round the hollow dome bright jewels flam'd, 
 Apollo's suppliant priests, a blameless train ! 
 Fram'd their oblations in the holy fane : 
 To front the sun's declining ray 'twas plac'd ; 
 With golden harps and living laurels grac'd. 
 The sciences and arts around the shrine 
 Conspicuous shone, engraved by hands divine." 
 
 217 
 
 The Castalian spring being quite at hand, we 
 were led to it first. The priest accompanied us, 
 and, with considerable energy, and something like 
 enthusiasm, pointed out the fountain, in which, of 
 course, we immediately placed the Pythia, and 
 saw her in imagination lave her streaming hair. 
 Our classic dreams, however, were soon dismissed 
 by the appearance of a dirty washerwoman trailing 
 a filthy piece of cloth backwards and forwards 
 in the sacred stream — the stream of Castaly ! 
 Our airy visions having vanished, we examined 
 the natural state of this celebrated place, which cer- 
 tainly has every claim to the appellation of sublime, 
 even waving recollections of the Muses, the Pythia, 
 and Apollo. The rocks are tremendously high, 
 almost close upon each other, so that the stream, 
 
248 
 
 CHAPEL OF ST JOH>J. 
 
 which is very small, flows in a hollow channel 
 through a dark ravine. The water, which is beau- 
 tifully transparent, falls in silver lines. I clambered 
 up the rocks, and was tempted to proceed, though 
 the chasm presents a general sameness. Is this the 
 stream of Castaly ? this the stream of inspira- 
 tion ? Could I resist drinking of it at its purest 
 channel ? No ! and if I felt inspired, it was with 
 emotions of respect for the genius of our country. 
 Dripping with the sacred water, and fanned by 
 the eagle's wings, 1 pronounced the names of 
 Thomson, Bums, Scott, and Campbell ; and it 
 required no oracle to say how nearly their lays 
 approach the loftiest inspirations of those ancient 
 favourites of the Muses, who had drunk most co- 
 piously of Castalia's spring. In descending, I was 
 forced to be heedful of my steps, fearing I might 
 be made to stumble by the lichens which grow up- 
 on the rocks, and which constantly reminded me of 
 my presumption in ascending them. 
 
 A little chapel, dedicated to St John, appears 
 above the basin of the fountain, and plainly tells 
 that the torrents are never very great. There 
 is nothing in this chapel except part of a fluted 
 column ; but that, indeed, soon engages the eye, 
 and leads the mind from the miserable walls to 
 reflect on brighter ages. From the Castalian foun- 
 tain we proceeded to the monastery of the Pana- 
 gia, said to be built en the site of the Delphic 
 
 MONASTERY OF PANAGIA, 
 
 S49 
 
 Gymnasium, (or, as some will have it,) on the 
 basement of the Temple of Minerva. 
 
 We crossed the stream, which has formed for it- 
 self a gully down Parnassus, to meet the waters of 
 the Pleistus, about a mile below. From the mo- 
 nastery, which is but a short distance from the road, 
 we could distinctly perceive the semicircular form 
 of the ground on which ancient Delphi stood : the 
 monastery of the Panagia is almost on the eastern 
 extremity of the curve, and the Chapel of St Elias 
 on the western point ; both situations command- 
 ing extensive views, and seemingly the points 
 where a skilful architect would choose to place his 
 striking works. 
 
 The church of St Elias, which is on higher ground 
 than the monastery of the Panagia, combines to ad- 
 miration with the frowning rocks of Castalia and the 
 ruinous appearance of foundation-walls. The olive 
 groves waved a moaning sound ; and, like the harp 
 of ^olus, ** lulled the pensive melancholy mind." 
 Who could repress a sigh where Homer suno- ? 
 
 In the court of the monastery were several frag- 
 ments of ancient marbles, and some tasteful orna- 
 ments in the wall. Four ancient columns support 
 the shed in front of the church ; one of them with 
 its capital inverted ; — shewing the sad perversion of 
 taste and judgment, and the complete triumph of 
 barbarism over an enlightened age ! The chapel, 
 which is dark and dismal within, is full of wretched 
 
250 
 
 VILLAGE OF CASTRI. 
 
 daubings of monks and dragons : we left it with 
 disgust, and met a peasant who informed us, that, 
 in excavating for stones on the acclivity of the hill, 
 he had discovered an old inscription. We has- 
 tened down to see it; but, alas! it had disappeared. 
 Some men who were building a supporting wall 
 had used the marble, and turned the inscription in- 
 wards ! 
 
 Our next excursion was through the village 
 of Castri, still conducted by the priest. He led 
 us through narrow lanes, where we found several 
 ancient ornaments as fixtures in the walls. The 
 people looked comfortless, especially the women, 
 who, as usual, were muffled up to their noses, dress- 
 ed in coarse woollen habits, reaching nearly to 
 their ancles. Both the petticoat and pelisse were 
 ornamented round the edges with brown or red. 
 Their stockings were loose, and hung about their 
 heels. None of them seemed idle : some were spin- 
 nins: the whitest cotton with a distaff*, and others sat 
 nursing their children, which were bandaged up like 
 mummies and tied with cord ; they rocked them be- 
 tween their legs, by lifting up each leg alternately. 
 
 The vicious barking dogs flew upon us from 
 every alley, and would have been intolerable, had 
 not our attentive priest cudgelled them away. 
 At last we reached the ancient stadium, passing 
 two modern fountains, which are supposed to have 
 fed the once prophetic spring Cassotis. The sta- 
 
 STADIUM. — SEPULCHRES. 
 
 Qoi 
 
 dium is quite above the village, and almost close 
 upon the rocks, above the road to Crisso. Its 
 form may be distinctly traced by the massive 
 stones of masonry which support the incumbent 
 earth, and by the edging of carved stone which 
 runs along the top. Much of this, however, is dis- 
 placed and thrown about the interior of the sta- 
 dium, which is now a field of corn, not exceeding 
 100 paces in length. At the end towards Castri 
 are two rows of ancient seats, one above the other : 
 further on, beyond the stadium, is seen a cave, 
 with some square cuttings in the rock. 
 
 The sepulchres next attracted notice ; we entered 
 them, and found in one cavities for three bodies, with 
 a little niche over each. All of these sepulchres are 
 shaped like an oven, circular at top ; shewing that 
 the ancient Greeks, though they had not discover- 
 ed the method of building an arch, were perfectly 
 acquainted with its form. It does appear to me 
 surprising, that so ingenious a people could have al- 
 lowed this to escape their notice, especially as the 
 circular sepulchres might so naturally have suggest- 
 ed it. * Under a seat in the same rock in which the 
 sepulchres are excavated, there is something like the 
 appearance of an ancient road, about five or six 
 
 • The invention of the builded arch and dome was it is 
 said, reserved fur the ingenuity of the Romans. 
 
252 
 
 SITE OF THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO. 
 
 feet wide, cut in the rock, and it was only in this 
 place I could discover any vestige of one. As we 
 were leaving the cemeteries, an old Greek came 
 up to us ; he needed only a scythe across his 
 shoulder, to be a striking representation of grim 
 Death ! Jaundiced and miserable, his wretched head 
 was marked by unsoothing years. " I will give him a 
 dollar," said my benevolent friend; " it will not be 
 thrown away." He got one. Surprise and reve- 
 rence were expressed in his countenance. He plac- 
 ed his hand upon his heart, then on his forehead, 
 took my friend's hand and kissed it, looked at the 
 money again and again, shewed it to every pas- 
 senger, and retired backwards, pressing his hand 
 upon his bosom. His manner baffles all descrip- 
 tion. — The same day a peasant brought some an- 
 cient coins, incrusted by time, and quite unknown. 
 These circumstances strongly remind us of Del- 
 phi's former wealth and fallen grandeur. 
 
 Leaving the stadium and ancient tombs, we went 
 to the church of St Elias, said to be built on the 
 foundations of the Temple of Apollo. The 
 situation does not agree with the description 
 given by Pausanias, who, to the best of my judg- 
 ment, makes it nearer the stupendous rocks, some- 
 where beside the modern fountains to the east, be- 
 low the stadium. * ** In coming out of the temple,'* 
 
 • " Proceeding from the Pleistus to the Temple of 
 Apollo, on the right hand was the water of Castalia, sweet 
 
 SITE OF THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO. 253 
 
 he says, "the wall was on the left." What wall? Was 
 it that of the sacred inclosure of the temple, or of 
 the court ? This is a little perplexing ; walls must 
 have been on both sides. Alas ! no vestige of the 
 tomb of Neoptolemus exists to explain the geogra- 
 pher's meaning. The building called Lesche, 
 adorned with the painting of Polygnotus, must have 
 had but little room, judging of the ground as it now 
 appears. " Higher up," says the ancient author, 
 " there was a stone on which oil was daily poured ;'* 
 but whether higher up towards the west, or to the 
 north against the rocks, is not explained. If, in 
 returning from the rocks to meet the prophetic 
 
 to drink. The houses, with the sacred inclosure of the 
 temple, which overlooked the city, stood on an acclivity. 
 The area, or court, within the wall, was large, and many 
 ways were cut, leading out of it. A sybil was said to have 
 chaunted her oracles from a prominent rock above the 
 Athenian portico. Coming out of the temple, the wall was 
 on the left, as also the tomb of Neoptolemus, to whom the 
 Delphians made yearly oblations. Higher up was a stone, 
 not big, on which they poured oil daily, and upon festivals 
 put white wool. On the way back to the temple was the 
 fountain Cassotis, and a wall with a passage up to it. The 
 water was said to run underground, and in the sanctuary of 
 the temple, to render women prophetical. Above Cassotis 
 was a building called Lesche, in which the story of Troy was 
 painted by Polygnotus, with equal skill and labour. In the 
 sacred inclosure was a theatre worthy of notice. Without 
 it, and above all, was abtadium."— C^anof/cr, p. 298. Vol II. 
 
2rji< 
 
 SITE OF THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO, 
 
 fountain Cassotis, wliere was the rock above the 
 Athenian portico, from whence the sybil chaunted 
 the oracles ? 
 
 The situation of the stadium might answer pret- 
 ty well, as viewing the whole from the lower Ipart 
 of the village of Castri ; yet all appears uncertain ; 
 and, therefore, fearing I shall neither make you 
 nor myself the wiser, by proceeding further in the 
 investigation, 1 shall leave it to better heads than 
 mine ; for, to speak the truth, I have bewildered 
 myself by twisting and turning the buildings, 
 to make them answer the text of Pausanias. I 
 shall therefore believe for the present, as many 
 others do, that tlie Church of St Elias stands on the 
 foundations of the Temple of Apollo. The mas- 
 sive basement proclaims it to have been connected 
 with a building of great magnitude. The situa- 
 tion, too, is commanding, and free from the debris 
 and rocks which might fall from the hill above. 
 The town must have been considerably below, as 
 we see by the numerous terraces of ancient foun- 
 dations. On the ground of St Elias there is 
 space for a great inclosure, " where many streets 
 might meet ;" and, altogether, it appears a better 
 situation, than if the temple had been pressed 
 against the rocks, as it surely would have been, if 
 near the modern fountains. 
 
 Casting the eye over the site of ancient Del- 
 phi, one cannot possibly imagine what has be- 
 
 DESOLATION OF DELPHI. 
 
 255 
 
 come of the walls of the numerous buildings, 
 which are mentioned in the history of its for- 
 mer magnificence; buildings which covered two 
 miles of ground. With the exception of the 
 few terraces or supporting walls, nothing now 
 appears. The various robberies by Nero, Scylla, 
 and Constantino, are inconsiderable; for the re- 
 moval of the statues of bronze, and marble, and 
 ivory, could not greatly affect the general appear- 
 ance of the city. The acclivity of the hill, and 
 the foundations being placed on rock, without ce- 
 ment, would no doubt render them comparatively 
 easy to be removed or hurled down into the vale 
 below ; but the vale exhibits no appearance of ac- 
 cumulation of hewn stones ; and the modern village 
 could have consumed but few. In the course of so 
 many centuries, the debris from the mountain 
 nuist have covered up a great deal, and even the 
 lubbish itself may have acquired a soil, sufficient 
 to conceal many noble remains from the light of 
 day: Yet we see no swellings or risings in the 
 ground, indicating the graves of the temples. All 
 therefore is mystery, and the Greeks may truly 
 say, " where stood the walls of our fathers? scarce 
 their mossy tombs remain!" — But, 
 
 *' Though here no more Apollo haunts his grot, 
 And thou, the muses' seat, art now their grave, 
 Some gentle spirit still pervades the spot, 
 Sighs in the gale, keeps silence in the cavc^ 
 And glidcb with gUissy foot o'er yon melodious wave." 
 
256 
 
 ROCKS AND SCENERY. 
 
 The church of St Elias is a wretched build- 
 ing, interesting only from the various fragments 
 of sculptured marbles, fixed within the building, 
 and before the door. Opposite to the church, 
 in the massive foundations, I made an exca- 
 vation, in which I placed a bottle hermetically 
 sealed, containing separate lists of our Scotish po- 
 ets, poetesses, and learned men, my personal 
 friends, and every one I could think of, who has 
 contributed to enlighten our dear Scotland ; espe- 
 cially Edinburgh, " the queen of the north," — the 
 fairest among modern cities. 
 
 The rocks above the village of Castri are huge 
 and grand, with three points and two divisions. 
 Down one of these flows the stream of Castalia : 
 the best view of this stupendous scene is near the 
 church of St Elias. Examining the whole with 
 a painter's eye, I am tempted to say that the rocks 
 are lumpish, and the divisions too much alike. I have, 
 however, seen the whole combined with a glowing 
 sky, and when the last rays of rosy light tipped 
 the rocks to the right of Castalia, the scene was in 
 the highest degree magnificent. At Castri we 
 do not see the pinnacles of Parnassus, but, from 
 the vale of Pleistus, his lofty summit appears 
 — fit resting place for Phoebus, among the virgin 
 snows. But we must linger no longer among the 
 broken inscriptions and waving grass of Delphi. 
 Let the winds moan among them, while we travel 
 
 ROCKS AND SCENERY. 
 
 257 
 
 the rugged sides of Parnassus, and, like the eagles, 
 look down on the misty vale of Pleistus, far'' be- 
 low, and I shall sing, as we proceed, your favourite 
 verse, 
 
 " O were I on Parnassus hill, 
 Or had of Hehcon my fill, 
 That I might catch poetic skill, 
 To tell how much 1 love thee. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
ARACOVA. ALBANIAN SOLDIERS. 
 
 259 
 
 LETTER LVI. 
 
 LIVADIA. 
 Jourtiei/ along Parnassus to Livadia. 
 
 On our journey to Livadia, we were accompanied 
 by the priest's two sons, who took charge of our 
 mules and asses. We were now at a very consi- 
 derable elevation, and the scenery through which 
 we were travelling possessed, in a very high de- 
 gree, the attribute of natural grandeur. A dis- 
 tant mountain, crowned with lofty pines, was fine- 
 ly opposed to the stupendous rocks in the fore- 
 ground. The sloping hills and frowning precipi- 
 ces assumed the most interesting variety of forms ; 
 and the barren heaths were strikingly contrast^ 
 ed with the smiling spots of cultivation, towards 
 which mountain paths were seen winding in every 
 direction. While we looked down from this ele- 
 vation on the human pigmies below, and saw the 
 eagles above them, " sailing with supreme domi- 
 nion, through the azure deep of air," we felt an 
 emotion of sublimity, which it is impossible to 
 describe : it required only the rolling of thunder 
 
 li 
 
 beneath, to delude us into the idea that we were 
 admitted into those empyreal realms, from which 
 Jupiter despatched his feathered messenger, to 
 scatter terrors over the guilty race of men. 
 
 Nothing can be more strikingly picturesque than 
 the situation of Aracova, the highest inhabited 
 part of Mount Parnassus. Salvator Rosa could 
 not have desired a finer subject for his pencil. 
 What effect would he have given to the insu- 
 lated rock, and fallen trees, which accord so well 
 with the decayed state of Aracova ! for even here 
 nature has claimed her Cyclopean stones again, 
 and covered them with moss. Yet, ruinous'^and 
 desolate as this place now is, it will ever possess 
 charms sufficient to command the admiration of 
 every traveller. 
 
 The appearance of some Albanian soldiers, 
 whom we saw resting themselves, with white 
 turbans, dark complexions, dress of sheep-skins, 
 and huge embossed arms shining in the sun, was 
 in wonderful harmony with this mountain scenery. 
 They hailed us with the exclamation of **Ora kaJis," 
 (happy hours,) and whatever terror the presence of 
 a similar company might inspire into Chandler and 
 his companions, we certainly saw no cause of fear. 
 The pinnacles of rock, which now rose before us, 
 though not a third way up the mountain, were co- 
 vered with deep snow, which, contrasted with the 
 dark and gloomy pines that waved over it, yielded 
 
^60 
 
 TOMB OF LAIUS. 
 
 the most striking effect of absolute light and dark- 
 ness! One fantastic group struggling with the 
 breeze, appeared like a host of fiends forcing their 
 ascent to heaven. 
 
 As we pursued our winding path, new expecta- 
 tions arose at every turn. At length we gained 
 the summit of this stupendous ridge, where the 
 hills of Negropont, the plain of Thebes, and Lake 
 Copais, burst upon our view. As we descended, 
 we saw poneys, and small black cattle, like those 
 which we meet in the Highlands of Scotland. 
 The hairy fleeces of the sheep gave them the ap- 
 pearance of goats. 
 
 We soon came to the spot where Laius is said 
 to have been murdered by Oedipus, and which the 
 conjecture of the learned has assigned to the tomb 
 of Laius. We found here a rude stone, which a 
 little fancy might have identified with this tomb. 
 That the fatal event occurred somewhere in this 
 neighbourhood, is very probable; but, excepting 
 the difficulty of the pass, I am not aware of any 
 sufficient reason for fixing on this particular spot. 
 Authority seems greatly against it, for Pausanias 
 expressly says, that the murder was committed 
 where two roads divide, and, as in this rugged 
 and impracticable country, nature has pointed out 
 the necessary direction of the roads, which, it may 
 be presumed, have long remained unchanged, we 
 are bound, by the authority of Pausanias, to fix 
 
 s. 
 
 y~ 
 
 sr 
 
 1' 
 
 
 OMl 
 
 a, 
 
 m 
 
X, 
 
 «60 
 
 TOMB OF LAIUS. 
 
 the most striking effect of absolute light and dark- 
 ness! One fantastic group struggling with the 
 breeze, appeared like a host of fiends forcing their 
 
 ascent to heaven. 
 
 As we pursued our winding path, new expecta- 
 tions arose at every turn. At length we gained 
 the summit of this stupendous ridge, where the 
 hills of Negropont, the plain of Thebes, and Lake 
 Copais, burst upon our view. As we descended, 
 we saw poneys, and small black cattle, like those 
 which we meet in the Highlands of Scotland. 
 The hairy fleeces of the sheep gave them the ap- 
 pearance of goats. 
 
 We soon came to the spot where Laius is said 
 
 to have been murdered by Oedipus, and which the 
 
 conjecture of the learned has assigned to the tomb 
 
 of Laius. We found here a rude stone, which a 
 
 little fancy might have identified with this tomb. 
 
 That the fatal event occurred somewhere in this 
 
 neighbourhood, is very probable; but, excepting 
 
 the difficulty of the pass, I am not aware of any 
 
 sufficient reason for fixing on this particular spot. 
 
 Authority seems greatly against it, for Pausanias 
 
 expressly says, that the murder was committed 
 
 where two roads divide, and, as in this rugged 
 
 and impracticable country, nature has pointed out 
 
 the necessary direction of the roads, which, it may 
 
 be presumed, have long remained unchanged, we 
 
 are bound, by the authority of Pausanias, to fix 
 
 sr 
 
 I' 
 
 
 w 
 
 ^1 
 
 iM 
 
-■-S!^. ipii!J^iE*>»*,.».; a 
 
 MONASTEKY. 
 
 261 
 
 upon the foot of the valley, about half a mile fur- 
 ther on, where, at present, three roads branch off 
 in different directions, as more likely to be the 
 scene of that event, than the place to which it is 
 generally ascribed. Yet, neither here nor else- 
 where have we been able to find any stone or stones 
 so artificially placed, as to deserve the name of the 
 tomb of Laius ; and, after all, it is highly probable 
 that the ancient, like the modern poets, have em- 
 bellished the truth of history, by uniting their own 
 interesting fictions with scenes calculated in them- 
 selves to exert a powerful influence over the ima- 
 gination, and give a deeper interest to the story. 
 
 As we proceeded from this disputed scene, we 
 saw ancient Daulis at some distance, the plain of 
 Livadia, and Chasronea. Daulis, the modern name 
 of which is Thavlea, is now a miserable village, with- 
 out one vestige of antiquity, save a grey tower on a 
 hill. The closing day reminded us of the neces- 
 sity of seeking lodgings, and a wretched habitation, 
 which served as a monastery, was the place in which 
 we detennined to pass the night. The priests came 
 forward officiously and untied our luggage, and 
 conducted us into their hovel. It was a square 
 room, arched at top like a common cellar, the raf- 
 ters black with smoke, and shining with the damp. 
 In the middle was a fire on the earthen floor, round 
 which the monks sat on their haunches, in the 
 manner of Indians, on low blocks of wood. No 
 
 I 
 
562 
 
 COSTUME OF THE MONKS. 
 
 furniture was to be seen, except some boards fixed 
 on posts, as substitutes for beds, each to contain 
 two persons. Two paltry prints were hung on the 
 walls ; the one representing an angel piercing a 
 monk with a spear, and the devil behind, taking 
 from him two ba^js of money ! the other seemed to 
 be a virgin and child supported by two monks. 
 We observed two grinding stones, with a handle to 
 grind their corn. Never, except at Delphi, have 
 we seen more simplicity and poverty. As soon as 
 we entered, the superior came to welcome us, with 
 a cordial and goat milk cheese. He gave it freely, 
 and with grace ; and we could not help being sur- 
 prised at the healthy and clean appearance of the 
 inmates of this poor dwelling. We saw no books, 
 and were told that they are very ignorant. 
 
 To defend themselves against the rigours of the 
 climate, which is truly hyperborean, even now, in 
 the middle of April, the snow-drift obscuring every 
 thing around us, they are clothed with two short, 
 thick, white woollen coats, with a kilt covering a 
 doublet below, white coarse hose, gartered with 
 black, and sandal shoes, strapped across their bare 
 feet. Their little black skull-cap, and shawls twist- 
 ed round their heads, in the manner of a turban, 
 were far from being unbecoming. They wore like- 
 wise a smart white waistcoat, with rows of sugar- 
 loafed buttons, a zone of purple cloth round their 
 waist, with a splendid silver case fixed in it, con- 
 
 PLAIN OF CHiERONEA. 
 
 263 
 
 taining a knife, and fork, and inkstand, beautiful- 
 ly embossed ! Their beards were so black, that 
 they appeared to be dyed. Though the morn- 
 ing lowered, we were determined to visit Chae- 
 ronea. This glorious plain has had its golden 
 day! though now, alas! the rude storms wave 
 nought but unwholesome plants, and lay its bosom 
 bare. A few mossy stones, and the unevenness of 
 the ground, mark out to the traveller the plain of 
 Charonea. Still it derives an air of fallen ma- 
 jesty, from its many graves, its pillars of granite, 
 and foundations of palaces and temples. These 
 fragments have, indeed, no picturesque effect ; but 
 they bring back the mind to those days when the 
 genius of Greece achieved its greatest works, — to 
 those days when the patriotism of the Thebans 
 withstood the effort of the Lacedemonians, —and to 
 that fatal day, when Philip triumphed here over the 
 combined armies of the Grecian republics, and ruin- 
 ed their liberties for ever. 
 
MANNERS. 
 
 265 
 
 LETTER LVII. 
 
 LIVADIA. ANCIENT LEBADEA. 
 
 Archon. — His Family. — Manners. — House of the Archon,'^ 
 Cave of Trophonius. — Fountains of Memory and Oblivion. 
 — Town. — Orchomenus, 
 
 Here we live with a Greek of high rank and 
 authority, a gentleman in his manners, speak- 
 ing Italian and French with ease and fluency. 
 His house, for Greece, is rather handsome ; never- 
 theless, I must confess, we find many things at 
 variance with each other. 
 
 At dinner, we found a table with a cloth upon 
 it, dirty and disgusting, and darned in a thousand 
 places. A miserable rusty knife and fork were 
 placed for each person. Before dinner the Archon 
 washed his hands in our presence, the boy kneeling 
 who held the ewer. His daughters and two Greek 
 gentlemen dined with us. The eldest girl was about 
 sixteen years of age, the youngest eight. Dinner 
 came in dish after dish, and consisted of boiled rice 
 and goat milk, with new cheese, lamb's-head, and 
 paste in the shape of pancakes, kid's bones stewed 
 i\'ith onions, paste containing minced meat, and 
 
 rice rolled in spinage, roast ribs of miserable lamb, 
 and other parts of the animal laid together, liver,' 
 lights, and windpipe ; eggs dyed and boiled hard! 
 During the whole time of dinner we had the same 
 knife and fork, which were never wiped. Our 
 Greek friends, men and girls, dispensed entirely 
 with that convenience. The little miss ate enor- 
 mously, and took abundance of oil to her food. 
 Her sister sitting squat on the divan or sofa, 
 stretched over the table, and put the spoon with 
 which she eat into every dish, licked it, and rolled 
 the cheese about upon her palate, shewing it occa- 
 sionally on the tip of her tongue, and lo^'oking as 
 stupid and vacant as an ideot. Sometimes, too, 
 she would put her hand into a dish, and take out 
 a bone, which she would gnaw without ceremony ; 
 she yawned, too, and belched abominably : the men 
 did the same. All this, no doubt, was perfectly com- 
 patible with Grecian politeness and good brcedinf^ 
 I only presume to observe, that it appeared a little 
 odd to our British eyes and ears; our love at 
 home for ease and freedom not being yet advanced 
 so far. The servants retired backwards, and always 
 left their slippers in the passage, which, by their 
 constantly putting off and on, made a tiresome 
 shuffling noise. When the servants were spoken 
 to, it was generally in a low and whispering tone. 
 In conversation the Archon spoke of the Turk- 
 ish government freely, particularly of the Pasha of 
 
.1 ! 
 
 ^6 
 
 EXPORTS. POPULATION. 
 
 auchon's house. 
 
 •m 
 
 267 
 
 •t 
 
 Negropont, and Ali Pasha. The latter he consi- 
 ders an angel compared with the former, who ex- 
 torted in one year a tribute of 500,000 piastres, 
 though the regular tribute for the whole province 
 of 20,000 souls does not exceed 80,000 annually. 
 The neighbourhood of Livadia is very productive, 
 a great deal of corn is raised annually for exporta- 
 tion. The kermes oak, which supplies the crim- 
 son dye through the insects that puncture it, affords 
 another source of export, as does the madder rais- 
 ed in Bceotia, which gives the red dye. Cotton is 
 raised and cultivated in various parts of Greece ; 
 but neither the Grecian, nor that of any part of 
 the Levant, is so pure or silky as that of America ; 
 it is, however, one of the principal articles of com- 
 merce from Greece; — of its exports to Europe, in- 
 deed, the only very considerable one. He also 
 spoke of the ancient history of Livadia and its an- 
 tiquities, but not with the purest feeling. Indeed, 
 I did not expect much sentiment from him, after 
 seeing a marble capital in his court-yard used as a 
 mortar for pounding coffee ! To my surprise, he 
 spoke of Dr Brown of Edinburgh, whose system of 
 medicine, the Brownonian, is the favourite one in 
 Livadia. The population of Livadia, we were in- 
 formed, does not exceed 6000 ; the Turks in the 
 proportion of one to ten. The mosques and churches 
 are numerous ; — of the former there are six, a most 
 ample accommodation for the small proiwrtion of 
 
 Mahometans, — the number of churches is the same. 
 The Archon also gave us a long account of the 
 plague which broke out thirty years ago, and con- 
 fined him and all his family to his house for thirteen 
 months. 
 
 After dinner, a boy came with a porcelain 
 basin and ewer, when each person washed his 
 hands over the same basin, the boy kneeling and 
 pouring water over them, and the water passing un- 
 der a perforated cover. The young lady placed the 
 basin before her, washed and scrubbed a consider- 
 able time, and used the same towel which the men 
 had used ! Pipes and coffee were presented im- 
 mediately after dinner: strangers came in and 
 joined in smoking, at which many were expert, 
 returning the smoke they received in their mouths 
 through their nostrils in puffs and suffocating 
 streams : at this time there was little conversation. 
 In this predicament, there was nothing left for me 
 but to look about, and knowing your insatiable cu- 
 riosity, I shall attempt to describe the dining-room 
 of the noble Greek. It is spacious, 30 feet at 
 least in length, by 20 feet in breadth, surrounded 
 by a sofa, covered with ornamented silk, very 
 clean and safe to sit upon. The planks of the floor, 
 too, are planed, and partly covered with a mat. 
 The curtains are of white muslin, but wofully 
 darned in the coarsest manner. In addition to the 
 windows, which may be about the general height 
 
268 
 
 COSTUME. 
 
 MANNERS. — CAVE OF TROPHONIUS. 
 
 ^^69 
 
 i! 
 
 of those in England, there is a small oval opening 
 over each, filled with a pane of glass, and the same 
 are on the opposite side, and at the end, for the 
 purpose of throwing a borrowed light into the ad- 
 joining rooms ; so that tlie dining-room may be 
 considered a reservoir of light. Then there hangs 
 from the roof, which is impannelled with wood, a 
 chandelier from a rich bouquet of flowers ; the 
 walls are also coated and fjancifully adorned with 
 various carving, but not, as you may believe, in the 
 purest taste. A mirror is hung at each corner. A 
 few miserable chairs are placed for foreigners, and 
 a table that may dine to the number of from eight 
 to ten. No paintings, nor even prints of monks 
 and devils. 
 
 Considerinfj the medium through which I 
 have been obliged to look, I think my descrip- 
 tion is sufficiently minute ; yet, I am persuaded 
 you will not be pleased, unless I tell you of the 
 lady's and the Archon's dress. Know then, her 
 pelisse was green, and trimmed with narrow edging 
 of gold lace ; a yellow turban and cotton handker- 
 chief, not very clean ; a zone of silk across her 
 loins, and trowsers to her ancles. The Archon 
 wore his high fur cap and ample purple robe of 
 cassimere, lined with precious fur; red boots and 
 yellow slippers ; the last being a sign of great dis- 
 tinction, and rarely tolerated by the Turks. In 
 the evening we had cards, and three fat ladies made 
 
 their appearance, and squatted on the sofa, their 
 faces so much muffled up, that we could only see 
 their eyes ; how they contrived to breathe I do not 
 know. When they moved, they rolled as it were 
 from place to place, never spoke, nor were they 
 spoken to. The ladies here seem ignorant and stupid. 
 What a contrast to our charming women at home ! 
 While we were engaged at cards, the servants came 
 into the room (to the very boy who kneeled to us) 
 to see the gentlemen play ; even our own servant 
 came and played a wretched tune upon the flute, 
 to the great delight of all the party. In the morn- 
 ing the girls innocently peeped in at the windows to 
 see us dress, and absolutely came into the room while 
 we were shaving. We breakfasted by ourselves, and 
 the young ladies and female servants stood at the 
 table to see us take our tea. I presume they had 
 never seen a tea-i)ot before, as they were constantly 
 examining it. We begged the girls to sit with us, 
 but they declined, nor would they taste our tea, 
 on account of the milk which we put into it, this 
 day being the beginning of their fast of forty days ; 
 they, however, received some in a paper, which 
 they said they would take at some future time. 
 
 This morning we paid our visit to the Cave of 
 Trophonius,* and the Fountains of Memory and 
 
 • An excavation in the limestone rock; about eight or 
 ten feet square aboTe the entrance, we could trace Ihtse let- 
 ters, eTBO — AO. 
 
^70 
 
 TOWN OF LIVADTA. 
 
 and Oblivion, just upon the water of Hercyna, 
 which flows among stupendous rocks. They are 
 ahnost completely destroyed. In the cave there 
 is, just perceptible through the soot and dirt, a 
 little ornament of raised painting on the wall. I 
 have made a drawing of it, which you shall see. 
 It is merely a succession of well drawn leaves, but 
 the raised mode of representing them is very curi- 
 ous, and seems to be unique. 
 
 To-day we have walked a little through the 
 town, which stands on the slope of a lofty hill, 
 and from many points presents very interesting 
 views, particularly from above, and near the castle, 
 where the elevated point commands the Vale 
 of Orchomenus, and the distant hills of Neo-ro- 
 pont. The streets are narrow, and their wind- 
 ings suit the sloping of the hill ; for myself, I should 
 tremble to ride in them, yet the Greeks mount 
 their horses and mules, and fearlessly descend with 
 surprising agility and expedition. We observed that 
 a number of cranes had built their nests upon the 
 chimney tops, and made a startling clattering with 
 their wings. This day being the beginnino- of a 
 fast, it will consequently be a meagre day with us. 
 Dinner is just announced, and you shall know 
 what we have got ; fish dressed in various ways, 
 rice soup with lemon, stewed leeks with oil, some 
 roasted kid prepared for us. This was a mark 
 of delicate attention: the Archon being aware 
 
 ORCHOMENUS. 
 
 271 
 
 that the British make no distinction in their 
 viands during tlie time of Iksts. How the servants 
 stared at our willingly eating to our perdition ! 
 \Vhen the dyed eggs appeared, each took one, and 
 each person broke his neighbour's egg ; honey from 
 Hymettus, too, was upon the table. The wine is 
 bad, and mixed with rosin, to make it keep ; they 
 say, however, that it is a good protection against 
 the fever of the country. 
 
 In smoking after dinner, I made various at- 
 tempts to sit with my legs folded under me, but 
 It would not do, a few minutes put me in a state 
 of torture. The Greeks can always do it grace- 
 fully, and even rise without putting their hands to 
 the divan: their ease of manner would quite 
 delight you. What annoys me, now and then, is 
 the loud manner in which the Greeks speak when 
 I do not understand them, thereby supposing they 
 enforce a knowledge of their mcanins : I allude to 
 the inferior class only. 
 
 The Archon advised us to see Orchomenus. 
 We have been there, but, alas ! the famous trea- 
 sury of Minyas, which, Pausanias says, was deserv- 
 mg of as much notice as the Pyramids of Egypt 
 has disappeared, nothing but a marble slab or two 
 remains. The building has never been great, 
 though certainly curious. Pausanias speaks as fol' 
 lows : « It is built of a round figure, and its top 
 does not raise itself to a very sharp point ; they say 
 
i>7t2 
 
 OltCHOMENUS. 
 
 the topmost stone holds together the whole build- 
 ing." Antiquarians, for a time, would have it, 
 that this was the arched dome. The matter has, 
 however, been fully investigated, and I understand 
 that the principle of building is quite distinct from 
 that of the arch, the first stones being large, and 
 heavy enough to sustain a superstructure of smaller 
 ones meeting each other at top. 
 
 The Temple of the Graces, which adorned Or- 
 chomenus, was destroyed by Constantine, and the 
 divisions of the shafts of the pillars, now formino- 
 the wall of a church, appear like as many grindino- 
 stones piled upon each other. The Graces are 
 surely fled, but to what part of Greece I do not 
 know. 
 
 On leaving Orchomenus, we saw a very touch- 
 ing sight, a mother stripping money from the head 
 of her deceased child. * 
 
 ♦ The child** fortune. 
 
 \ 
 
 LETTER LVIU. 
 
 THEBES. 
 
 Journey from Livadia to Thebes, 
 
 Thebes, May I8I7. 
 
 The fresh horses we got at Livadia were ex- 
 tremely good, though their appearance did not 
 promise much. Shortly after the commencement 
 of our journey, they were tied together head to 
 tail, and I leave you to judge what a whimsical 
 figure we made scampering over the extensive 
 plains. I must, however, say, that mine and my 
 friend's were free, and always willing to engage 
 in wandering among the ruins of a temple, or a 
 city ; and strangely impressive it was, to be some- 
 times alone among the foundations of buildings, 
 that formeriy had teemed with thousands ! 
 
 The city of Haliartus, destroyed by the Romans 
 in their war with Perseus, looked sad and solitary ; 
 and marching clouds cast their solemn shadows 
 over its remains, as if to veil them from our eyes. 
 Wild fowl crossed in waving lines without fear of 
 molestation. The Lake Copais, now Topolias, 
 
 VOL. n. 
 
 s 
 
274 
 
 THEBES. 
 
 it' 
 
 appeared a monstrous bog of reeds ; and is said 
 to give out malaria, to the ruin of the peasant who 
 lives within its neighbourhood. 
 
 As our route lay so near the foot of the moun^ 
 tains, our views were circumscribed, but sometimes 
 they were beautiful. Suppose the lakes of Scotland 
 were plains, I know no country so like illustrious 
 Greece. We crossed some streams, which, though 
 of no great magnitude or importance in themselves, 
 are dignified with classical names, and have, of 
 course, all the interest of classical association. 
 A caravan with numerous horses, heavily laden, 
 were resting in the plain ; tents were seen here 
 and there, and strange-looking people in odd cos- 
 tumes. Flocks of jet black sheep were very com- 
 mon. 
 
 After five hours riding, we left the plain of 
 Livadia for that of Thebes, which is one vast 
 field of grass and corn without inclosure. The 
 roads were merely tracks for cattle, and the sur- 
 rounding hills were arid, bleak, and bare. Mo- 
 dern Thebes has no magnificence to boast of. 
 No ancient structure now remains. The gates, 
 which were assigned to various planets, are levelled 
 with the dust, nor can the light of sun or moon 
 disclose their foundations. The Temples of Jupi- 
 ter the Most High, Apollo, Bacchus, Ceres, Diana, 
 and Fortune, are swept away ! The tomb of Pin- 
 dar is not saved, nor are the ancient fountains now 
 
 THEBES. 
 
 ^5 
 
 visible. The rivers Dirce and Ismenus no longer 
 water sacred groves, but seem as if they had sunk 
 withm the earth, not daring to be alone amidst the 
 desolation. How shall I speak of modern Thebes- 
 Its flimsy houses, its filth-the pride of Turks 
 strutting m rich attire from wretched buildings, in 
 which we would hardly stall our cattle ? 
 
 In picture Thebes derives all its beauty from 
 Parnassus and Mount Helicon. The features of 
 the town are small, without sufficient foliage to 
 contrast with its walls of clay. Some cypress 
 trees, rising among the buildings, are dark and 
 gloomy, yet never out of haimony with the mind 
 while musing on the fate of Greece. The aque- 
 duct IS modern, and very poor. A curious marble 
 of a rude age is fixed within its wall, represent- 
 ing a man on horseback trampling on an altar :~ 
 a fit portrait for the Great Alexander, or the vet 
 more ruthless Sylla. * 
 
 Boys from the minarets of the mosques chauntiW 
 the * muczzim," or call to prayers, produce a dole- 
 ful yet not unpleasing sound. This is the substance 
 and meaning of their chaunt: " God Most Hich » 
 1 bear witness that there is no God but God • Come 
 to prayer ; come to the asylum of salvation. Great 
 God ! there is no G od but God.- One would sup. 
 
 • After the burning, butchering, and enslaving by the 
 ™gl. y Alexander, S,lla sold half of the Theban land! and re- 
 'luced the inhabitants to the most deplorable condition. 
 
 m^^^^ta^t 
 
 iiiiiiiniiaiiiiiMafHifMiieaw 
 
^7G 
 
 GRECIAN SACRED MUSIC. 
 
 pose, from such an invitation, that the sanctuary 
 would be open to all : but no ; the barbarous and bi- 
 gotted worshippers within would dash the doors 
 against the " Christian dogs." I have got the music 
 of the hymn, but I fear you will hardly be able to 
 understand it, as it requires Turkish lungs and 
 Turkish practice to make it at all intelligible. 
 By the way, I have made attempts to procure some 
 Grecian melodies, but have not yet succeeded j 
 I hope, however, to pick up some in Athens, 
 where, if any where, I presume they may be 
 found. The Greek church music, not only of the 
 Ionian Islands, but also of the continent of Greece, 
 is extremely beautiful, and well adapted to feelings 
 of devotion. It seems to have much of the Italian 
 cast, and is probably indebted to Italy for its power 
 in just expression. The constant intercourse be- 
 tween the Italians and the Greeks, the Italian lan- 
 guage, too, being almost the only foreign language 
 spoken in the country, favours this idea. 
 
 Signor Nicolati Andronada, with whom we live, 
 is a man of some intelligence ; but I have not for- 
 given him for directing us to an old tower built 
 with stone and lime, as the house of Pindar ! 
 The Grecian gentlemen are often very ignorant 
 regarding the history of their country, especial- 
 ly the buildings. In short, I think I have per- 
 ceived a sneaking partiality to the habits of the 
 Turks their masters. It is alleged the ancient 
 
 ANIMALS. 277 
 
 Greeks never used cement ; but there is always 
 something against such bold assertions. Pausa- 
 nias, speaking of an ancient temple at Alalco- 
 menae in Boeotia, says : « A large strong ivy, 
 which grew by the side of the temple, destroyed 
 the cement of the stones, and separated them 
 from each other." Is not this a chaming little 
 bone for you and your friends to pick ? From all 
 that I have seen, however, of ancient Grecian 
 buildings, I am inclined to the opinion, that no 
 cement was used in their construction. 
 
 The Turks have some superstitious veneration for 
 dogs, hawks, and crows, which abound here without 
 number. The dog appears to be something be- 
 tween the terrier and a shepherd's dog, famished, 
 miserable, and always barking. Every animal here 
 is inferior to ours, except the goat. Asses are the 
 beasts of burthen. Cows and oxen they have none. 
 Their riding horses are fed on green com ; each 
 animal being fastened by a rope to its allotted por- 
 tion of the provender. The mutton is rank and 
 strong to the taste. They use chiefly the milk of 
 the goat, which requires a little habit to make it 
 palatable. Their fowls are bad, thin, and stringy. 
 Their only vegetables (at least which we saw) are 
 gariic and inferior onions. The natural richness 
 of the soil is not to be exhausted ; the crops of 
 gram immediately about the towns, though cer- 
 tainly not to be compared to ours, are tolerably 
 
 
278 
 
 TURKISH OPPRESSION, 
 
 plentiful. It would appear that manure is rarely 
 used in agriculture, if we may judge from the quan- 
 tity heaped up every where and lying waste. 
 
 Our host, who had gone in quest of horses to 
 convey us to Plattea, is now returned with smiles 
 upon his face. After several disappointments, he 
 has succeeded in procuring horses from the richest 
 Turk in Thebes ! but we must pay what is demand- 
 ed, which is greatly more than the Greeks would 
 charge. 
 
 Thirty-five of these precious Turkish gentle- 
 men lately came to town to collect the contribu- 
 tions. They lived upon the people, and paid for 
 nothing;. How John Bull would stare if he were 
 treated thus at home ! and what a virtuous rage 
 will you be in when you hear of this oppression ! 
 But recollect, you are in that country where justice 
 and honour sit enthroned, darting their indignant 
 looks on half the world. 
 
 LETTER LIX. 
 
 ELEUSIS. 
 From Thebes to the Plain ofPlatcea and Eleum. 
 
 We left Thebes for the Plain of Plat^a, which, 
 like most of the plains we have visited, is in a state 
 of nature. Before us appeared Mount CithiBron, 
 dedicated m ancient times to Jupiter Cith^ronus. 
 We had here no roads, but mere tracks through 
 heath and desolation. The ruins of Plataa are just 
 beneath Cith^ron. How affecting the signs of de- 
 parted greatness ! Every weather-stain seemed to 
 have Its mterest : The very moss upon such ruins 
 rivetted our attention, and forced us back among 
 past ages. Here the King of Persia lost his all. 
 and dared not move another step in the land of 
 liberty. 
 
 u 
 
 The Persian tyrant, foil'd anJ stung 
 
 With shame, and desperation, gnash'd his teeth 
 To see thee rend the pageanU of his throne ; 
 And at the lightning of thy lifted spear 
 Crouch'd like a slave ! " 
 
280 
 
 PLATiEA. 
 
 SARCOPHAGI. 
 
 281 
 
 M 
 
 .♦ 
 
 What must this city have been in all its pride 
 and glory ! The remains now appear grey as 
 twilight, but without a chance of returning day. 
 Time is modelling now instead of art. Miles of 
 ancient pottery and tiles, hardly allowing the blades 
 of corn to grow among the ruins ; sheep tracks 
 among the massive foundations ; asses loaded with 
 brushwood cut from shrubs growing in the courts 
 of ancient palaces and temples; shepherds with 
 their flocks ; the bells of the goats heard from among 
 the v^alls ; tombs and sarcophagi of ancient heroes 
 covered with moss, some broken, and some entire ; 
 fragments, and ornaments, and stones containing 
 mutilated inscriptions : — these are the objects which 
 Plataea now presents. But who, that stands there 
 with a recollection of its ancient glory, and having 
 Parnassus full in view, can quit the spot without 
 
 regi'et ? 
 
 In regard to the ruins of ancient cities, I did 
 not suppose they could have had so great an effect 
 upon the mind : certainly they excite feelings of a 
 hisher class than those which the sight of the 
 ruins of a fortified building call forth. How dread- 
 ful to think, that, by the word of a savage, called 
 Alexander the Great, tens of thousands have been 
 reduced to slavery, or turned from shelter to the 
 howling blast ; the holy flame of liberty, and the 
 light of the human mind extinguished ; and the 
 mantle of darkness thrown over future generations ! 
 
 10 
 
 What associations have we with the fate of a Caernar- 
 von, or a Conway Castle, comi>ared to such chilling 
 recollections as these ? Had Goldsmith given his 
 splendid talents to the description of aruined and de- 
 serted city, — ruined for its independence and love of 
 liberty, — he might have produced a picture, infinite- 
 ly more instructing and useful to mankind, than 
 his description of a deserted village : tender and 
 affecting as that description is, we could more readi- 
 ly give ourspupathy to the fallen thousands of po- 
 lished talents, elevated, too, with the sentiments of 
 virtue and honour, than to the untutored and igno- 
 ble swains of the village. The loss of the latter is 
 soon forgotten, and, in spite of the poet's assertion, 
 easily supplied ; while the fate of philosophers, le- 
 gislators, poets, painters, and statuaries, is connect- 
 ed with the destinies of successive generations. 
 
 The sarcophagi at Plataea are but few in num- 
 ber, and forai a line on the rising ground, on 
 which the ruins of the ancient city stand. One of 
 these is almost entire, and considering the thinness 
 of its sides, it is surprising it has stood so many 
 ages. These sarcophagi might have been easily 
 overturned and dashed to pieces ; but a tomb may 
 command respect even from an enemy ; and when 
 hallowed by superstition, there is a chance of its 
 preservation. This may in some degree account for 
 the number of sarcophagi and sepulchral stones 
 which we find preserved in every city. 
 
 ,*jiha- 
 
 -'.icBWLaiflteaa.»iifcM 
 
'II 
 
 282 COCKLA. — PARTING VIEW OF PL ATiEA. 
 
 The village of Cockla is at no great distance 
 from Plataa. There we put up for the night, in a 
 shepherd's cottage of considerable dimensions. The 
 apartment, which was equal in extent to the whole 
 house, might be thirty feet in length ; the one half 
 was occupiedby horsesand mules, and the other half 
 by the family. Our beds were placed near a good 
 fire, which sparkled on the wine flagons, guns, 
 and horse-furniture. The Greeks squatted round, 
 and looked inquisitively at every thing we did. 
 The shepherd's dress is of white woollen cloth, orna- 
 mented according to fancy ; black garters below the 
 knee, and black lines of the same breadth across 
 the calf of the leg and the ancle. 
 
 In the village, next morning, we looked about 
 for inscriptions and marbles, but did not find any 
 worthy of observation. The Greek church, how. 
 ever, quite at hand, contains a few fragments. 
 And here I may observe, that the churches are the 
 most likely places to find any remains of antiquity. 
 It was a drizzling morning when we left Cockla 
 for the village of Condari. Yet we still cast a 
 lingering look upon the sacred field ; \vhich truly, 
 without association, inspires no feeling but regret, 
 that such an extensive plain should be so thinly in- 
 habited, and without the slightest degree of tillage. 
 The Greek peasants do not even cultivate a garden. 
 When we had inconsiderably advanced, the grey 
 and low remains of poor Plata?a looked like a flock 
 
W^i<^^.: 
 
 
 Lj.*-:^:*^^. 
 
voi.u.i»»y. 2 as. 
 
VWJtPay. 2ft5. 
 
MODE OF ETCHING FLOWERS. CONDARI. 283 
 
 of sheep on a wild and desert waste. A sun-beam 
 stole upon them, but they were soon concealed 
 again by the travelling shades. 
 
 On ascending the hills, we met with many 
 flowers quite unknown to me. Often have I re- 
 gretted my ignorance of botany in such a country, 
 which, no doubt, affords a great variety of rare and 
 curious plants. It occurred to me, that those who 
 have not time to draw, might, by taking impres- 
 sions of the leaves, render an acceptable service to 
 their friends at home ; and how easily might this 
 be accomplished, and the impressions rendered 
 durable, by means of a soft etching ground on thin 
 plates of copper ? The annexed print will give a 
 better idea of what I mean than any thino- I can 
 say, and I should think it might be rendered use- 
 ful for various purposes of manufacture and orna- 
 ment, with the advantage, too, of cheapness and 
 expedition. 
 
 Wet and comfortless, we arrived at the village of 
 Condari, which, like all the villages in Greece, is 
 very poor, public accommodation being out of the 
 question, at least in the shape of public-houses. 
 Few travellers are expected, of course little is sup- 
 plied, and there is a total want of conveniences. 
 We, however, contrived to get a good fire of sticks, 
 and a glass of anise-seed water, which was by no 
 means unpleasing. What a picture the drying 
 scene would have made for Mr Allan ! Our jani- 
 
284 INTERIOR OF A COTTAGE AT CONDARI. 
 
 zary, in particular, without his kilt, holding it 
 up to the flames to dry ; the Greeks untwist- 
 ing and wringing their turbans ; the opening of 
 the trunks, and a handsome Greek girl presentino- 
 the cordial. The habitation was like the last, 
 having mules at one end, and human beings at the 
 other. The children had all their heads shaved, 
 and wore caps of piastres, (silver coins,) the land- 
 lady herself had two large strings of them, which 
 hung down to her heels ; the large pieces of money 
 were placed uppermost, and the others decreased 
 in size, down to the humble paras. * From the 
 quantity of money on the heads of the females, it 
 was reasonable to conclude, that they did not im- 
 mediately expect the Turks to collect contribu- 
 tions, otherwise they would not have been so fond 
 of displaying this species of fineiy. t We found 
 we could scarcely have lived, had we not carried 
 our beds with us ; in Greece they have none, the 
 poor natives contenting themselves with rush-mats 
 on the floor, while the better sort sleep on their 
 divans. 
 
 In advancing to Eleusis, (now Lefsina,) we 
 travelled over hills of brushwood, through woods 
 
 ♦ In value about half a farthing. 
 
 t I have since been informed, that Condari is chiefly in- 
 habited by Albanians, who are exempted from paying tri- 
 bute, being employed as guards to the frontiers of the Mo- 
 rea. 
 
 ELEUSIS. 
 
 ^85 
 
 of dwarf pine, and passed some lovely and ro- 
 mantic scenes. We met with little water, no 
 houses, and but few olive trees ; on crossing a plain 
 of some extent, we saw Hymettus in the distance, 
 partly veiled in clouds. At last, we travelled 
 through the foundations of ancient Eleusis, which 
 are very extensive, sometimes running in long 
 parallel lines of square blocks of stone, and in other 
 parts scattered about. Shortly after, we came to 
 the ruins of what is supposed to have been the 
 Propylea, or ancient entrance into Eleusis, con- 
 sisting of fluted columns, and various parts of 
 the purest marble of the Doric order, lying in 
 pieces, one upon each other, some appearing above 
 the ground, and others almost completely buried. 
 The present town, which is near the sea, is part- 
 ly built with marble from the ancient edifices, and 
 some curious fragments are to be seen within the 
 houses. The mystery for which Eleusis was cele- 
 brated in the days of its glory, still hangs over the 
 fate of many of its temples and noble remains. 
 One feels nothing but indignation, on looking back 
 to the barbarism that could destroy such exquisite 
 gems of art, and cannot refrain from inwardly 
 cursing the monster Alaric, whose shade can hard- 
 ly repose with those of Pericles, Phidias, Ictinus, 
 Metagenes, or Philo, by whose power and genius 
 such mighty works were raised. The foundations 
 everywhere are very great, and the ploughshare 
 
QSC) 
 
 ELEUSrS. 
 
 must often leave its course to get free of the in- 
 truding marble. The principal remains of ancient 
 Eleusis are along the ridge of a hill, and in the 
 plain below. Part of a broken aqueduct stretches 
 across the country. In a small church, at a little 
 distance from the town, we saw the remains of a 
 beautiful column of very peculiar character, repre- 
 senting the stem of a palm tree, not above nine 
 feet in height. I could linger here for many days, 
 did I not remember that Athens is at hand. 
 
 LETTER LX. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 From Eleusis to Athens, 
 
 Athens, May I8I7. 
 The road from Eleusis to Athens, the ancient sacred 
 way, is all through classic ground, and every step 
 is illustrated by ancient history. As we advan- 
 ced, we met with various ruins, and perceived ta- 
 blets for votive offerings, carved in the rocks. 
 You may conceive our emotions as we rode along 
 the sacred way; the monastery of Daphne ap- 
 pearing in view, while we knew well, that, a little 
 beyond, on a rising hill, we should see the object 
 of the greatest attraction to us in Greece, for 
 which we had defied so many inconveniences and 
 dangers. We knew not whether to go fast or 
 slow. The guide determined. Suddenly he rode 
 extremely quick, and we were obliged to follow, 
 Athens appeared ; and we uncovered. 
 
 " Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts 
 And eloquence, native to famous wits, 
 
i288 
 
 APPROACH TO ATHENS. 
 
 Or hospitable, in her sweet recess, 
 
 City or suburban, studious walks and shades : 
 
 See there the olive groves of Academe, 
 
 Plato's retirement, where the Attic bird 
 
 Thrills her thick-warbled notes the summer long ; 
 
 There flowery hill Hymettus, with the sound 
 
 Of bees* industrious murmur, oft invites 
 
 To studious musing ; there Ilissus rolls 
 
 His whispering stream.'* 
 
 The anticipations with which we h^d set out on 
 our travels, — anticipations, which, at almost every 
 step of our progress, have been more than realized, 
 now rushed upon our minds, deriving additional in- 
 tenseness from the recollection of what we had 
 seen. Our memory naturally recalled the feelings 
 with which we had entered the Italian capital ; and 
 the gratification which we had received from the 
 monuments of ancient and modern art, which we 
 had there contemplated : and now, when we stood 
 before that city, which was for ages the light of 
 the world ; where the unfettered energies of man 
 had achieved the noblest deeds recorded in history ; 
 where genius, wisdom, and taste, had reached their 
 highest perfection ; and from which Rome herself 
 was proud to borrow all her illumination and re- 
 finement ; — admiration of the past glory of Athens, 
 and commiseration of her fall, — the remembrance 
 of what she had been, contrasted with what she 
 now is, — mingled in one overpowering emotion, 
 which expressed itself in the silence of tears. 
 
 APPROACH TO ATHENS. 
 
 289 
 
 The morn was gloomy — Athens was in shade, 
 and, perhaps, the effect of solemn grandeur was bet- 
 ter suited to the dejected state of that city of renown, 
 than had there been a " blaze of living light.^' 
 
 The city was too far distant to trace its features, 
 and all we could perceive was the general form of 
 the Acropolis, yet inviting the keen and curious 
 eye to penetrate the dusky shades. * 
 
 As we descended the sacred way, and approached 
 the sacred grove, various interesting objects appear- 
 ed. The general forms of the Temples of Minerva 
 and Theseus arrested our admiring eyes, before the 
 other remains of ancient art were visible. At last 
 the columns of the temples and their beautiful pro- 
 portions were distinctly seen. We crossed the 
 classic Cephissus, (a poor and muddy stream,) and 
 soon arrived in Athens. 
 
 The country people whom we met were very sal 
 low and unhealthy in appearance, nor were they 
 quite so clean as those of Thebes or Livadia. The 
 undaunted look of liberty no longer beams in the 
 Athenian peasant's eye. 
 
 * liolh Mr D. and myself concurred in thinking, that there 
 is a considerable likeness between Athens and Stirling, as 
 seen from the sacred way. Athens has her castle (Acropolis) 
 seated high. Hymettus is like the Ochill Hills, Anchesnius 
 and Biilessus answer to Craigforth and Abbey Craig. From 
 every other point, it bears a striking resemblance to Edin- 
 burgh, es})eciaily as seen from the Braid and Kavdslon Hills. 
 
 VOL. II. T 
 
290 
 
 consulina's daughters. 
 
 Our servant, who had gone before to procure 
 accommodation, met us at the gate, and conducted 
 us to Theodora Macri, the Consulina's, where we 
 at present live. This lady is the widow of the 
 consul, and has three lovely daughters ; the eldest, 
 celebrated for her beauty, and said to be the sub- 
 ject of those stanzas by Lord Byron : 
 
 " Maid of Athens, ere we part, 
 
 Give, Oh, give me back my heart T* &c. 
 
 At Orchomenus, where stood the Temple of the 
 Graces, I was tempted to exclaim, *' Whither have 
 the Graces fled ?" Little did I expect to find them 
 here. Yet here comes one of them with golden cups 
 and coffee, and another with a book. The book is a 
 register of names, some of which are far sounded by 
 the voice of fame. Among them is Lord Byron's ; 
 connected with some lines which I shall send you : 
 
 *' Fair Albion smiling sees her sons depart 
 To trace the birth and nursery of art, 
 Noble his object, glorious is his aim, 
 He comes to Athens, and he writes his name. 
 
 R.A. 
 
 The counterpoise by Lord Byron : 
 
 " This modest bard, like many a bard unknown, 
 Rhymes on our names, but wisely hides his own ; 
 But yet, whoe'er he be, to say no worse, 
 His name would bring more credit than his verse. 
 
 >• 
 
 t» 
 
 The mention of the three Athenian Graces will, 
 I can foresee, rouse your curiosity, and fire your 
 
 consulina's daughters. 
 
 291 
 
 imagination ; and I may despair of your farther 
 attention till I attempt to give you some descrip- 
 tion of them. Their apartment is immediately op- 
 posite to ours, and, if you could see them as we do 
 now, through the gently waving aromatic plants 
 before their window, you would leave your heart 
 
 in Athens. 
 
 Theresa, the Maid of Athens, Catinco, and Ma- 
 riana, are of middle stature. On the crown of 
 their head is a red Albanian skull-cap, with a blue 
 tassel spread out and fastened down like a star. 
 Near the edge or bottom of the skull-cap is a 
 handkerchief of various colours, bound round 
 their temples. The youngest wears her hair 
 loose, falling on her shoulders ; the hair behind 
 descending down the back nearly to the waist, 
 and, as usual, mixed with silk. The two eldest 
 generally have their hair bound and fastened un- 
 der the handkerchief. Their upper robe is a pe- 
 lisse edged with fur, hanging loose down to the 
 ancles ; below is a handkerchief of muslin, cover- 
 ing the bosom, and terminating at the waist, 
 which is short ; under that a gown of striped silk 
 or muslin, with a zone round the swell of the loins, 
 falling in front in graceful negligence ; white stock- 
 ings and yellow slippers, complete their attire. 
 The two eldest have black or dark hair and eyes ; 
 their visage oval, and complexion somewhat pale, 
 with teeth of pearly whiteness ; their cheeks are 
 
 
^92 
 
 consulina's daughters. 
 
 consulina's daughters. 
 
 293 
 
 rounded, their noses straight, rather inclined to 
 aquiline. The youngest, Mariana, is very fair ; her 
 face not so finely rounded, but has a gayer expres- 
 sion than her sisters, whose countenances, except 
 when the conversation has something of mirth in it, 
 may be said to be rather pensive. Their persons are 
 elegant, and their manners pleasing and lady- 
 like, such as would be fascinating in any country. 
 They possess very considerable powers of conversa- 
 tion, and their minds seem to be more instmcted 
 than those of the Greek women in general. With 
 such attractions, it would indeed be remarkable, if 
 they did not meet with great attentions from the 
 travellers who occasionally are resident in Athens. 
 They sit in the eastern style, a little reclined, 
 with their limbs gathered under them on the divan, 
 and without shoes. Their employments are the 
 jiecdle, tambouring, and reading. 
 
 I have said that I saw these Grecian beauties 
 through the waving aromatic plants before their 
 window : this perhaps has raised your imagination 
 somewhat too high, in regard to their condition. 
 You may have supposed their dwelling to have 
 every attribute of eastern luxury. The golden cups, 
 too, may have thrown a little witchery over your 
 excited fancy ; confess, do you not imagine that 
 the doors 
 
 " Sclf-opcncd into halls, where, who can tell 
 What elegance and grandeur wide expand, 
 The pride of Turkey and of Persia land ; 
 
 Soft quilts on quilts, on carpets carpets spread. 
 
 And couches strctchM aiound in seemly bund ; 
 
 And endless pillows rise to prop the head, 
 
 So that each spacious room was one full sux-lliu" bed :" 
 
 You will shortly perceive the propriety of my de- 
 laying, till now, to inform you that the aromatic 
 plants which I have mentioned, are neither more 
 nor less than a few geraniums and Grecian balms j 
 and that the room in which the ladies sit is 
 quite unfurnished, the walls neither painted nor 
 decorated by ^' cunning hand." Then what would 
 have become of the Graces, had I told you sooner, 
 that a single room is all they have, save a little 
 closet and a kitchen? You see how careful I 
 have been to make the first impression good ; not 
 that they do not merit every praise, but that it is 
 in man's august and elevated nature to think a 
 little sliglitingly of merit, and even of beauty, if not 
 supported by some worldly shew. Now, I shall 
 communicate to you a secret, but in the lowest 
 whisper. 
 
 These ladies, since the death of the consul, their 
 father, depend on strangers lodging in their spare 
 room and closet, — which we now occupy. But, 
 though so poor, their virtue shines as conspicuous 
 as their beauty. 
 
 Not all the wealth of the east, or the compli- 
 mentary lays even of the first of England's poets, 
 cculd render them so truly worthy of love and ad- 
 miration. 
 
LYCABETTUS. — CAVE OF PAN. 
 
 '^95 
 
 LETTER LXL 
 
 ATHENS, 
 Pnyx and Parthenon. 
 
 It is so natural to go from one beauty to another, 
 that I am sure I cannot act more judiciously than 
 to carry you from the living Graces of Athens to 
 the most beautiful of its antiquities. 
 
 Before conducting you to the Parthenon, how- 
 ever, let me direct your attention for a few moments 
 to the Pynx, where Demosthenes harangued the 
 Athenians, and from which the greatest men of 
 Greece have delivered their orations. It is fonned 
 in the solid rock, and will, as it should, exist as long 
 as the world. Here, too, we may perceive the 
 stations from which Plato and Socrates are said to 
 have addressed the people, and enforced doctrines 
 calculated to ennoble the soul of man. 1 he Areo- 
 pacrus, where St Paul preached to the Athenians, 
 and where was held the supreme court of the most 
 impartialjudgesthat ever graced humanity, is still 
 in existence, and will vanish only with the world. 
 On the Lycabettus, the tombs of the dei)aited 
 great, excavated in the solid rock, are all open. 
 
 I '^ 
 
 There, also, we examined the ancient tanks or 
 wells ; the prodigious cuttings for foundations of 
 buildings, the innumerable steps regularly formed, 
 and leading to them ; the ancient prisons, hewn 
 in the mass of stone, and the very ground itself 
 strewed with fragments of pottery, of ages gone ! 
 What man, looking at these things, could stand 
 unmoved? In the market-place of Athens, our 
 attention was directed to the remains of their an- 
 cient domestic utensils, marble chairs, and mea- 
 sures for corn, wine, and oil. 
 
 On the rock of the Acropolis we saw the dial 
 that summoned them to the games in the Theatre 
 of Bacchus. And in the museum of M. Fauvel, 
 we beheld urns containing the ashes of the dead, 
 their very hair ; a jaw-bone with a coin fixed be- 
 tween the teeth ! Lovely vases, patera?, tazze, lan- 
 cella, lumi eterni, and vessels for holding tears. 
 On beholding such objects, it requires an effort to 
 rouse the mind from that delightful reverie, which 
 had carried it to converse with a state of society 
 so long since passed away ; and, for a time, the 
 modern Greeks and Turks pass before the eyes as 
 phantoms, almost unseen. 
 
 Signor Lusieri accompanied us to the Temple 
 of Minei*va, to which we ascended by a steep 
 and winding path. About a third way up, we 
 passed the celebrated Cave of Pan, which is but an 
 insignificant hollow in the rock, hardly allowing 
 
^^'96 
 
 DISDAR. 
 
 room for the poor god to have indulged in any 
 enthusiastic gesture while amusing himself with 
 his reeds. At the guard-house of the Acropolis, 
 an old Turk sat smoking his pipe. He appeared 
 to be the only soldier of the garrison, except the 
 governor or disdar, to whom he led us, passing the 
 ancient Propylea, of which I shall hereafter speak. 
 The Disdar received us in his principal apartment, 
 which, instead of smooth plaster, was finished with 
 what is termed rough cast, and contained a clock, 
 a trunk, and sofa ! In appearance, he was respect- 
 able, his white beard flowing upon a purple robe. 
 Signer Lusieri was our intei-preter, and arranged 
 all matters for our drawing in the Acropolis. We 
 were served with coffee, and a saucer of preserved 
 fruit was handed round, with but one spoon for all. 
 At parting, the amount of about forty shillings was 
 put into his hand, for which sum we obtained per- 
 mission to visit the Acropolis, whenever we might 
 chuse. The money was counted by his eyes, and with 
 the same organs he conveyed to us an intimation of 
 his being highly pleased. In all this there appears 
 little ceremony, but let me tell you, the poor man's 
 salary does not exceed L. 10 a year. When he 
 was told that more English gentlemen were about 
 to visit him, we perceived the beams of gladness 
 in his aged countenance. All things being settled, 
 we mai'ched through weeds and broken marbles to 
 the Parthenon, — the Temple of Minerva. 
 
 TEMPLE OF MINERVA. 
 
 597 
 
 Who that has seen it, has not spoken of this 
 building with raptures ? " Did ever poet image 
 ought so fair ?" Instruction emanates from every 
 part. It teaches the rules of nice proportion, of 
 grace and beauty. With how much majesty does 
 it rise among the heaps of surrounding ruins — itself 
 having severely suffered from the shock of earth- 
 quakes, and the still more desolating hand of man ! 
 With what can I compare this noble edifice, bereft 
 as it now stands of the glorious sculptures with 
 which it lately w^as adorned, unless the deity her- 
 self, bereft of her helmet and a?gis, with her face 
 of wisdom clouded with a frown of indignation at 
 man's depravity. 
 
 Here I shall say nothing about proportions and 
 measurements. At present I am not disposed to 
 attend to them minutely ; and besides, you will 
 find them all in Stuart's Athens.* The frieze, 
 which still remains above the principal entrance, 
 representing part of the Equestrian Procession 
 of the Panathenaic Festival, is truly beautiful ; 
 generally in excellent preservation, and even 
 
 * The dimensions arc as follows: — Length of lowest step 
 236 feet 9 inches, breadth 101 feet 2 inches ; length of upper 
 step on which the columns stand 227 feet 7 inclies, breadth 
 101 feet I inch ; height from bottom of lowest step to top 
 of pediment 64 feet 7 inches; height of columns 34 feet 3 
 inches ; height from top of capital of column to top of pedi- 
 ment 25 feet 3 inches. 
 
S98 
 
 TEMPLE OF MINERVA. 
 
 superior in sculpture to any thing lately taken 
 down. This, and two mutilated statues of Ha- 
 drian and Sabina, and one Metope, which still 
 exists in the entablature of the western pediment ; 
 two lions' heads at the extremity of the roof of the 
 ambulatory, and something like two horses' heads in 
 the angle of the eastern tympanum, are all that now 
 remain of ornament ; and even these, I under- 
 stand, would have been taken down, had there not 
 been apprehensions as to the entire destruction of 
 
 the building. 
 
 The scene of desolation in the Acropolis is com- 
 plete ; the heaps of ruins of wretched houses, 
 and various buildings, constructed part with clay 
 and marble, the marble looking doleful through 
 the mud. Vile nettles, higher than our knees, 
 stino- one when full of admiration, and not attend- 
 ing to them,— like the cursed government of the 
 country, always ready to do mischief. On entering 
 the temple, one is struck by the worn steps and 
 curved or circular marks of the great doors of old, 
 the pavement, too, that had been trodden by the 
 luminaries of Greece ! by Pericles, Phidias, Socra- 
 tes, Plato, Xenophon, Demosthenes, Aristotle, &c. 
 In testimony of my regard for you, I write this 
 letter on the sacred marble. 
 
 - " August Athena I where, 
 
 Where are thy men of might, thy grand in soul ? 
 
 Gone, glimmering through the dream of things that were. 
 
 DESOLATION OF THE ACROPOLIS. ^99 
 
 First in the race that led to glory *s goal, 
 They won — and passed away." ■■ 
 
 Often in the course of my travels I have felt 
 the force of a sentiment which I have somewhere 
 seen expressed, that every thing sublime and noble 
 is more or less allied to emotions of melancholy. 
 With such a scene before me as that which I now 
 contemplate, the pulse goes quicker, and the tears 
 fill the eye, but not with those of delight. Ah, 
 no ! Such havoc and destruction recall the dread- 
 ful deeds of uncontrollable passion, ambition, ty- 
 ranny ; and time appears with its melancholy list of 
 past events, and damps the soul. 
 
COLOURING OF THE PARTnENO^\ 
 
 301 
 
 LETTER LXIl. 
 
 ATHENS, 
 
 Colouring of the Temple of Minerva.^Panorama from the 
 
 Top, S^'C. 
 
 Athens, May I8I7. 
 It still appears to me that Phidias, Ictinus, and 
 Callicrates, have given a character to the Parthen- 
 on, corresponding to that of the goddess herself,— 
 stately, commanding, instructing, and in form 
 most perfect. "^ The sculptures which were in the 
 tympanum, the entablature and frieze of the inner 
 cell, must have taken from the severity of grandeur 
 which it would have had without such ornament, 
 and conveyed to the mind a perfect idea of magni- 
 ficent beauty. The Doric order seems highly cal- 
 
 ♦ " The Athenians, in constructing the Temple of Ai)olIo 
 Panionios in Ionia, had recourse to proportion, firmness, 
 and beauty of the manly body. And in building the Tem- 
 ple of Diana, the gracefulness of a woman was their guide." 
 ^Atkins Essai/ on the Doric Order. 
 
 The Temple of Neptune at Pa^stum is generally called 
 Herculean, from its masculine aspect. 
 
 culated for this expression, admitting the enrich- 
 ments, without suffering them to intrude on cha- 
 racter. When pure from the hands of the great 
 architects and sculptors, it must have told " un- 
 utterable things" of power and art, and allied 
 the Greeks nearer to their gods than all their 
 splendid victories. Reflecting on the sudden rise 
 of this noble style of architecture, what can sur- 
 prise us more, than the rapid strides from darkness 
 into light ! The consummate skill in the adjust- 
 ment o'f every part, the knowledge of the perfect 
 forms of nature, and the adapting them to the ex- 
 pression of ideal beauty, still remains a mystery, 
 and leaves even this enlightened age to follow in 
 
 despair. 
 
 The Parthenon, in its present corroded state, 
 impresses the mind with the idea of its thousands 
 of years. The purity of the marble has disap- 
 peared, but still the eye is charmed with the 
 varied liveiy of time. The western front is rich 
 in golden hues, and seems as if it had absorbed the 
 evening beams ! * Little white appears, except the 
 
 • It is generally supposed that marble temples are white ; 
 but, with the exceplion of the remains of the Temple of Mi- 
 nerva at Cape Colonni, (which is built of Parian marble,) 
 this is not the case. The marble of Pentelicus, with which all 
 the temples at Athens are built, throws out an oxide «f iron 
 of the richest yellow ; and this certainly makes them infinite- 
 ly more picturesque than if they were purely white, 
 
 VOL, II. •" 
 
 y 
 
S02 
 
 PANORAMA FROM THE PARTHENON. 
 
 tympanum, and part of the entablature. But the 
 brightest orange colour, and grey and sulphury 
 hues, combine in sweetest harmony. The noble 
 shafts of the huge columns are uniformly toned with 
 yellow of a brownish cast, admitting here and there a 
 little grey. Casting the eye to the inner cell, we see 
 dark hues of olive, mixed with various tints, adorning 
 the existing frieze and pillars ; and these opposed to 
 brilliant white, afford a point and power of expres- 
 sion which never fails to please. But all the parts 
 are different ; some broken shafts are white, and 
 some are grey or delicately yellowy seeking con- 
 trasts with dusky greens and browns of sombre hue. 
 The whole is rich, yet pleasingly subdued, and 
 when the evening sun illuminates the temple, op- 
 posed to clouds of silvery tones of grey, imagine 
 how splendid it must be ! The Turks, too, among 
 the ruins, in rich attire of purple, red, or blue, 
 afford attractive points not to be rejected by the 
 eye of taste. In ascending to the top by a narrow 
 winding stair, various names are written on the 
 wall. Having mounted to the pinnacle of the tem- 
 ple, what a panorama of ruin ! What a circle of 
 classic scenes! 
 
 On the hill of the Museum, towards the south, 
 is the monument of Philopappus. Further in the 
 distance are the hills of the Morea, the iEgean 
 Sea, and Isle of -^gina. Advancing to the west, 
 the ports Phalerum and Piraeus are dimly seen ; 
 
 PANORAMA FROM THE PARTHENON. 303 
 
 then follows Psyttalia ; the site of Corinth ; the 
 hills Gerania, and Corydallus ; above the Pnyx 
 appears the sacred way from famed Eleusis, the sa- 
 cred grove, and site of the academy where Plato 
 tauffht ! Then, far remote, are seen the hills of 
 Icarus and Phyle, and near the extremity of the 
 sacred grove, Colonus Hippius, with Parnes and 
 Decelia in the north. Just below them, and near 
 the eye, the lovely Temple of Theseus shines in 
 the sun's bright ray ; then comes the Hill Brilessus, 
 the Mount Anchesmus, and winding road to Ma- 
 rathon in the east. The shallow stream of the 
 missus humbly seeks its way by the golden colour- 
 ed columns of Jupiter Olympius. Approaching to 
 the south, the eye dwells on the ** flowery Hill 
 Hymcttus" running to the ^gean Sea ; then 
 Philopappus comes to view again. 
 
 Among all those objects, so long t!ie theme of 
 poetical description and allusion, none is more in- 
 teresting than the noble vestiges of the Parthenon, 
 its prostrate divisions of columns above each other, 
 and white as snow — its mighty pillars of various 
 height still pointing to the skies— its remains of 
 cornices and frieze. * Within the temple, on the 
 
 ♦ The ingenious INIr Hcrniing, formerly of this city, has 
 admirably modelled the frieze now in the British Museum, 
 and the casts are of such a size, as to be well adapted to tiic 
 cabinet of ihe man of taste, 
 
 VOL. II. t 
 
so* 
 
 PANORAMA FROM THE PARTHENON. 
 
 ancient marble pavement, where heathen worship- 
 pers have often trod, is now a wretched Turkish 
 mosque ; and nearer to the right, the remnant of 
 a Grecian church. How strange ! how silent all ! 
 — But, hark ! that sound ! It is the muezzin chaunt- 
 ing from the mosque, behind the Areopagus, pro- 
 claiming to the world that " God is great, there 
 is no God but God." * 
 
 • " Hark I from the mosque the nightly solemn sound, 
 The muezzin's call iloth shake the minaret, 
 There is no God but God I To prayer, lo 1 God is great.' 
 
 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Temple of Minerva Polias, Eredheum, Pandroskim, 
 
 Besides the magnificent Temple of Minerva, the 
 Acropolis has to boast of the ruins of the conti- 
 guous Temples of Minerva Polias, * the Erec- 
 theum, t and Pandroseum. t The two former 
 are considered the standard of the Ionic order. 
 Every ornament is finished in the truest taste: 
 the chisel, in short, can go no further. The por- 
 tico of Minerva Polias (I grieve to say it) is still 
 used as a powder-magazine, completely built up, 
 without door or aperture of any kind. The co- 
 lumns appear almost buried in the wall, and a 
 more revolting spectacle I have seldom witnessed. 
 These buildings are about 150 feet to the north of 
 the Parthenon. The columns are chastely rich. 
 
 • Her title as protectress of the city. 
 •|- Dedicated t" Eiectheus. 
 
 -»- Dedicated to Pandrosos, one of the daughters of Cccrops, 
 the founder of the ancient city. 
 
 VOL. II. ^ ^ 
 
30G 
 
 TEMPLE OF MINERVA POLIAS. 
 
 and the volutes of them remarkable for their ample 
 dimensions and pleasing flow of line. The inge- 
 nious device, too, of raising and enlarging the vo- 
 lute towards the corners of the portico, so as to ap- 
 pear pleasing to the eye w^hen viewed from any 
 point, shews how much the ancients studied the 
 principles of effect and symmetry. The Temple of 
 Minerva Polias is the only Grecian building that 
 I have seen with windows ; they are placed, three 
 in number, between the columns, and their frames 
 or jambs are almost touching them. At first 
 they appeared a little out of taste for want of space 
 between them, and, on repeated consideration, I 
 confess myself unable even to conjecture a reason 
 for so unpl easing an arrangement. 
 
 The capitals and flutings of the columns are much 
 destroyed by time ; chipped and broken, too, by va- 
 rious causes : yet, considering their amazing age, it 
 is marvellous to me they are here at all. So deli- 
 cate ! so slender ! they might easily have been de- 
 stroyed by the slightest violence, — yet here they are 
 in ruins to be sure, but still giving important lessons 
 to the world ! We may accuse the Turks of bar- 
 barous wantonness, but are these not proofs that 
 they have respected the precious works of art? 
 Let us ask ourselves would such buildings have 
 stood half so many centuries in Great Britain? 
 No ! although we should not have pounded them 
 down for mortar, they would have been otherwise 
 
 12 
 
 PANDROSECJM. 
 
 307 
 
 destroyed, * without the aid of time or climate. 
 Can we protect a mile-stone, or coping of a wall 
 or bridge from that spirit of destruction which is 
 so peculiar to our country ? And have we not 
 come over here to indulge the feeling, and animate 
 the Greeks and Turks to it ? 
 
 The lovely little Temple of Pandrosos, which was 
 supported by six caryatids, or female figures, similar 
 in form and attitude, is, as I have said, attached to 
 the Temple of Minerva Polias. Only four of the ca- 
 ryatids nowremain, and these are greatly injured, and 
 seem as if they mourned the loss of their companions* 
 While studying this gem of architecture, a Turkish 
 gentleman pointed to the rude support of the roof^ 
 which occupies the space of the last caiyatid which 
 was taken down, and with a mournful and signifi* 
 cant expression of countenance, exclaimed, more 
 than once, ** mi Lor Elgin !" These words, from 
 the mouth of a Turk, appeared to me infinitely 
 more severe than all that has been said at home 
 or here against the proceedings in the Acropolis. 
 The other missing caryatid is now in Rome, in the 
 possession of Camuccini the historical painter : for 
 many years it was lost to the world, till he disco- 
 vered it in a garden, I think, on the Pincian Hill. 
 
 * Witness the fate of Arthur's Oven, a beautiful Roman 
 antiquity discovered in this country, and soon after wantonly 
 destroyed. 
 
11 
 
 308 
 
 VIEW FROM MINERVA POLIAS. 
 
 It was purchased for a trifle, and I believe is now 
 for sale. In preservation this caryatid is superior 
 to any of the rest, and has been restored by the 
 great Thorvvaldson with taste and judgment. In 
 the same gentleman's possession there is a small 
 part of the frieze of the Parthenon, in excellent 
 condition. 
 
 On looking at the prop substituted by the agent 
 of Lord Elgin, I have been tempted to wish we 
 would send from home a fac-simile by Coade, of 
 the caryatid now in the British Museum, and re- 
 move the wretched support which is constantly re- 
 minding one of what the Turks had spared. Per- 
 haps this mode of restitution might be carried fur- 
 ther, and durable casts of the metopes and frieze 
 be placed on the forlorn Temple of Minerva. The 
 Erectheum, which was under the same roof with 
 Minerva Polias, can only boast of five columns, 
 and part of the south wall ; but those remains are 
 very fine. M. Fauvel made an excavation in the 
 centre of the building, I believe without success. 
 
 From the portico of Minerva Polias, one of the 
 most magnificent views of the whole ruins presents 
 itself, comprehending the stately Doric of the 
 Parthenon, contrasted with the light and elegant 
 Ionic of the Erectheum, Minerva Polias itself, and 
 the little gem Pandroseum ! In colouring, the whole 
 is perfect, especially in the evening light. The 
 columns and entablature of the Parthenon ap- 
 
 • 
 
 a 
 
 COLOURING. — VIEW FROM PROPYLEA. SOQ 
 
 pear in shade, yet rich with colour ; the white 
 and slender pillars of the Erectheum, partly relieved 
 against the azure sky, and partly obscured by the 
 shadows of the buildings, seem to embody all the 
 harmonious hues of tenderness and delicacy. The 
 portico of Minerva Polias stands in reflected light, 
 and receives the soft illumination on its tones of 
 orange, grey, and brown. The Pandroseum would 
 hide itself in shade, but the streaming light seeks it 
 out, and gilds the edges of its lovely forms. Even 
 my Turkish friend (who pays me daily visits, while 
 drawing in the Acropolis) conveyed his admiration 
 of this touching scene, by expressive signs and 
 smiles. He seems to have a pride and interest in 
 the ruins, and shews me where architects have 
 made their studies, especially the stations of our 
 famous Cockrell, and the Calmuc employed by 
 the Earl of Elgin. 
 
 From the assemblage of ruins which I have just 
 described, 1 went with him to the top of the ancient 
 Propylea, which, certainly, presents the finest 
 view of the whole of the Acropolis, and, perhaps, 
 is yet matchless in the world. * In front appears 
 
 ♦ " In its pride and glory, the Acropolis appeared as one 
 entire olTering to the Deity, surpassing in excellence, and as- 
 tonishing in richness. Heliodorus, named Pcriegetes the 
 Guide, had employed on it fifteen books. The curiosities of 
 various kinds, with the pictures, statues, and pieces of sculj - 
 
310 
 
 VIEW FROM PROPYLEA. 
 
 the Temple of Minerva, augustly beautiful, the 
 sunbeams stealing among the lovely columns, and 
 casting shadows in the deep recess ; while sparkling 
 touches of brilliant white appear, and dazzle the 
 imagination with visions of ancient splendour. The 
 minor temples shine in glorious light against the 
 Mount Anchesmus, and the pillars of the Pro^ 
 pylea shoot through the crumbling ruins of suc- 
 cessive ages. 
 
 turc, were so many and so remarkable, as to supply Polcmo 
 Perie^elcb with matter for four volumes ; and Strabo affirms, 
 that as many would be required in treating of Athens and 
 of AUica." — Ch^ndl(r*s GreecCy p. 41. 
 
 LETTER LXIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Temple of Theseus, — Dislocation of Columns by Lightning, 
 — Church of St George. — Situation of the Temple. — Gran* 
 deur and Beauty independent of Association, 
 
 J HE ancients, in their buildings, directed their 
 attention to matters of comfort as well as taste and 
 beauty. At the bottom of each step of the Pro- 
 pylea, close upon the angle, a small groove is 
 cut in the marble, to allow the surface-water to run 
 off*. The introduction of this jTractice in Scotland 
 might be advisable, and would prevent the ice from 
 forming on the steps in winter. 
 
 The adhesion of the marble, without cement, 
 has been noticed by various authors, but I do not 
 believe that it applies to marble buildings in gene- 
 ral. Here, in Athens, the material is quite at 
 hand, and probably was used shortly after being 
 cut from the quarries of Pentelicus, before it had 
 lost its moist and tenacious quality, which exuding, 
 as we every day see in the formation of stalactites, 
 would supply, without any artificial means, a power- 
 ful and cohesive cement. Certain it is, that, in 
 
312 
 
 CHURCH OF ST GEORGE. 
 
 SITUATION OF THE TEMPLE. 
 
 313 
 
 several cases, and especially on the steps of the 
 Temple of Minerva, it is impossible to trace the 
 
 joining. 
 
 The columns of the Propylea, the Parthenon, 
 and Temple of Theseus, have suffered much from 
 lif^htninff. The tvvistinj^js and dislocations of some 
 of them are very curious, the courses, or divisions, 
 of the pillars, have been considerably turned, so 
 that the flutings of one part advance upon the 
 other, while other portions of the same column re- 
 main uninjured by the shock. This is particularly 
 remarkable in the Temple of Theseus; but, with this 
 exception, and a part of the roof being in a state of 
 ruin, the building has not the appearance of great 
 antiquity, although it is supposed to have been 
 built before the age of Pericles. * 
 
 Within the cella, now the Greek church of St 
 George, we see nothing but bare walls — no 
 flooring ; an aperture or two in the vaulted roof 
 is all that admits the light, and a more un- 
 comfortable, damp, and unwholesome church there 
 can hardly be. The daubings, representing saints. 
 
 * The dimensions of this temple are : — Length of lower 
 step 106 feet 8 inches, breadth 47 feet 8 inches. Height from 
 bottom ol lower step to top of pediment 33 feet 4 inches. 
 Height of columns 18 feet 8 inches. Height from top of ca- 
 pital of column to top of pediment 12 feet 3 inches. Length 
 of upper step on which columns stand 104 feet 2 inches ; 
 breadth 45 feet 2 inches. 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 are in unison with the place, and fail not to excite 
 disgust. 
 
 Externally the frieze at both ends of this tem- 
 ple is in poor condition, yet parts of it are very 
 perfect. Monsieur Fauvel * is of opinion (and he 
 has seen it well from a scaffold) that it is not in- 
 ferior to that of the Temple of Minerva. In 
 the casts in his possession, many of the figures ap- 
 pear in exquisite taste and beauty. The metopes 
 in the eastern pediment are sadly corroded and 
 destroyed by time ; those, however, on the sides 
 are pretty well preserved, but do not seem to be 
 executed by the same judicious hand ; comparing 
 them with the frieze, the sculpture is on a lower 
 scale of merit. 
 
 In style, the Doric of the Temple of Theseus is 
 not unlike the Parthenon ; but, from its situation 
 and size, which is not more than half the dimen- 
 sions of the latter, it only excites the idea of 
 simple beauty. The elevation of the Temple of 
 Minerva opposing itself to the sky, favours its su- 
 blime appearance, independent of its exquisite 
 proportions. The Temple of Theseus stands on 
 a gentle elevation, but from whatever point we 
 view it, the extensive and interesting scenery with 
 which it is surrounded, comes in for a share of 
 
 * The French Consul at Athens, a man of refined laste, 
 and an admirable draftsman and modeller. 
 
 I 
 
314f BEAUTY INDEPENDENT OF ASSOCIATION. 
 
 our interest and admiration ; and perhaps this very 
 circumstance, which reduces the temple to the 
 station of a feature merely in the scene, has at the 
 same time the effect of lessening that importance 
 which it would possess, could it be seen without 
 the interference of other objects. 
 
 The ingenuity of philosophers has been exerted 
 in analyzing the nature of our sentiments of subli- 
 mity and beauty. While some have contended 
 that all these sentiments are founded on certain as- 
 sociations of ideas, others have supposed that there 
 is in the nature of the objects themselves, which 
 we denominate sublime or beautiful, a certain in- 
 herent and orginal quality, which, independently of 
 any previous association, excites in the mind the 
 peculiar sentiments with which the contemplation 
 of them is accompanied. Although unpractised 
 in the art of untwisting the gossamer threads of 
 thought and sentiment, may I not be permitted 
 to state my own impression of the truth of the 
 latter hypothesis ? That our associations with ob- 
 jects either of a sublime or beautiful cast, con- 
 tribute largely to increase the power of the pecu- 
 liar sentiments which belong to them, is a fact 
 which must be recognised by every one. Yet, can 
 there be any doubt, that, in the Temple of Neptune 
 at Paestum, the very forms have something within 
 themselves, calculated to fill the mind with the im- 
 pression which belongs to the sublime, whilst, in the 
 
 4 
 
 BEAUTY INDEPENDENT OF ASSOCIATION. 315 
 
 Temple of Theseus, the simple presentation of its 
 form bespeaks that species of admiration, that pe- 
 culiar feeling, whidi beauty is calculated to draw 
 forth ? * It required not age to constitute the one 
 sublime, and the other beautiful. In truth, their 
 respective characters must have been more deeply 
 impressed upon them in their perfect state, than in 
 the mutilated form in which they now stand, sur- 
 rounded by the adventitious attributes with which 
 antiquity invests every monument of human art. 
 Age has undoubtedly superinduced on them some 
 additional character ; but to their age we can in no 
 degree ascribe either the sublimity of Paestum, or 
 the beauty of the Temple of Theseus. But I 
 chiefly concern myself with the sentiment itself, 
 with which any object warms and delights my soul ; 
 and let me, like the child attracted by a flower, be 
 contented to feel, though unable to deteimine 
 whence the feeling springs. 
 
 • The simple process of increasing the length of the shaft, 
 and reducing the height and massivencss of the pediment, will 
 convert the expression of grandeur into that of beauly. 
 Height, then, is not at all times characteristic of grandeur ; 
 that it is not essential to it, the temples at Paestuni prove be- 
 yond dispute. 
 
PARTHENON SAID TO BE ENTIRE IN I67G. 317 
 
 LETTER LXV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Refections regarding the breaking and pounding of Sculp- 
 
 (tired Maibles bij the Turks, 
 
 It is a well known fact, that, when the metopes 
 were taking down from the Temple of Minerva, the 
 Disdar Aga (or governor of the Acropolis) could 
 not refrain from shedding tears, and said the pro- 
 ceeding was not to be endured. His tears, in- 
 deed, soon dried up at the sight of gold : still, 
 however, I w^ould judge this Turk by his natural 
 feelings, which plainly spoke vexation. In tiiking 
 money, he might not have thought of himself alone ; 
 perhaps his poverty, and not his will, consented. 
 A circumstance, too, which occurred the other day, 
 convinces me that the Turks do not see with in- 
 difference the ruin of their sculptures. Some 
 midshipmen, on visiting the Acropolis, chipped 
 and broke the drapery of one of the Caryatids of 
 the Pandroseum ; the Disdar, on perceiving this, 
 was much in wrath, and threatened vengeance, if 
 he could find them. 
 
 FroQi the innumerable fragments and blocks of 
 marble which are scattered everywhere in the 
 Acropolis, I find it difficult to believe, that the 
 Turks should have thought it necessary to destroy 
 the figures for the purpose of making mortar, es- 
 pecially as the walls are chiefly built with clay, 
 which, as a cement, they suppose to be a better 
 preservative against the shock of earthquakes, to 
 which this country is very subject. That the 
 Turks have broken marbles in the Acropolis, I 
 cannot doubt ; but I should think not to the ex- 
 tent which is generally supposed. Spon and 
 Wheler visited Athens in I67G, and found the 
 Temple of Minerva quite entire. * It remained 
 so till IG87, when much of the sculpture and build- 
 ing was destroyed by the Venetians under Moro- 
 
 * Stuart is mistaken in this statement. We find, by the 
 cngravinj; made from the drawing of the eastern pediment, by 
 the artist who accompanied the Marquis de Nointel, in the 
 year 1074., (two years before Spon and Wheler*s visit,) that 
 it was much destroyed by accident or time. The western 
 pediment, too, was supported by an arch within the tympa- 
 num, which arch, also, was a prop to the statue of Jupiter 
 and adjacent figures, Dr Spon himself likewise mentions, 
 that one of the columns, of the six which supported the roof 
 of the Pronaos, was wanting, but that it had been supplied 
 by a support of stone and lime, at the expence of 2000 crowns ; 
 and (observe) by a Tuik, (the Kislar Ilaga ;) this does not look 
 like wilful destruction. 
 
 I 
 
318 
 
 DESTROYED BY THE VENETIANS. 
 
 sini and Koningsmark, the latter having done 
 more mischief than the unlucky bomb which fell 
 upon it at the siege. By attempting to remove the 
 figure of Minerva, he destroyed the whole of the 
 western tympanum. This noble temple may be said 
 to have been respected till I687, and little done 
 to injure it by Turk or Christian. Stuart, in the 
 year 1753, found the Temple of Minerva in the 
 condition in which it was left by the Venetians ; 
 since that time, the injuries it has sustained have 
 been numerous and extensive. 
 
 When the lovely sculpture was precipitated to 
 the ground by Morosini and by Koningsmark, 
 much of it must have been dashed to pieces, and 
 completely ruined, yet some no doubt escaped un- 
 injured. The Count Koningsmark being desir- 
 ous to possess himself of the best of the marbles, 
 << to enrich Venice with the spoils of Athens," * 
 it is natural to suppose, he appropriated such as he 
 found in good condition, and which he could 
 most easily carry off. From the remaining mass, we 
 may suppose part may have been used as mortar, 
 but I should think only the very wreck and rub- 
 bish of it. We find, accordingly, that in an ex- 
 
 • The famous marble lion, ten feet in height, which stood 
 at the Port of the PirjEus, and likewise a celebrated lion which 
 stood on the way to Eleusis near Athens, were carried off by 
 Morosini, and were placed before the Arsenal at Venire. 
 
 MARBLES FOUND WHERE THEY HAD FALLEN. 319 
 
 cavation made by the Earl of Elgin, a great part 
 of the statue of Victory, the Torso of Jupiter, a 
 part of Vulcan, and other valuable fragments, were 
 discovered on the very spot on which they had 
 fallen. Signer Lusieri also found some metopes, 
 where he expected to obtain them, and the cele- 
 brated Mr Cockrell has made discoveries by ex- 
 cavation corresponding to what he had anticipated. 
 Indeed, it is hardly fair to accuse the Turks of 
 utter barbarism and wantonness, till the ground, 
 at present covered with houses, shall be made to 
 unveil its hidden stores ; and even then, when we 
 reflect on what must have been carried off by 
 strangers before Lord Elgin's visit, we shall find 
 they had little left for burning into lime, * I 
 mean of sculptured marbles, except what was left 
 for the noble Earl, t The story of the Turk and 
 his furnaces, I confess, appeared a little odd and un- 
 
 • When Signor Lusieri was excavating for some metopes, 
 and part of the frieze, at the east end of the temple, it is said 
 a Turk told him, that he might save himself the trouble of 
 proceeding any further, in the hope of finding them, but that, 
 if he chose to look a little to the right, he would find the fur- 
 naces in which he had burned them into lime. In Athens, 
 there are always men of taste and feeling, and I should think 
 they would have stepped forward on this occasion^ and saved 
 the precious marbles from such a fate. 
 
 + I believe 170 feet of the frieze, independent of what re. 
 mains. 
 
 t ■ 
 
320 REMAIXS CARRIED OFF BY STRANGERS. 
 
 natural. It is hardly to be supposed, that a man in 
 any state would decide on destroying a beautiful 
 work of art, when, on every hand, he could have been 
 supplied with materials for his purpose, especially, 
 too, as he might get money for it. The beauti- 
 ful marble of Pentelicus, surely, would produce 
 lime white enough for wretched sheds. * 
 
 In the walls of the fortification, and in some of 
 the buildings of the town, many pieces of sculpture 
 were carefully preserved, and seemingly fixed in 
 them as ornaments, not with taste, I grant, but still 
 they were preserved. The Earl of Elgin procur- 
 ed the best of these ; t and, if I am not mistaken, 
 it required all his influence and great intreaty with 
 the Porte to obtain them. Lately such fragments 
 fixed in the walls of private houses, as could be had 
 for money, have been picked up by various stran- 
 c-ers. The Princess of Wales obtained a number, 
 and the other day an English gentleman gleaned 
 a few. 
 
 • It has been said the Turks pounded the sculpture, because 
 it produced the whitest lime. I am tempted to ask, for what 
 purpose this while lime was made in Athens ? 
 
 \ Fragments of the frieze of the Temple of Un winged Vic- 
 tory, representing the Athenians in combat with the Persians, 
 and in sculpture said to be not inferior to the metopes of 
 the Parthenon. Likewise some valuable marbles taken from 
 the parapet of the modern fortification, especially the represen- 
 tation of a Marriage, which, it is said, is very perfect. 
 
 TURKS UNJUSTLY ACCUSED OF DEMOLITION. 3^21 
 
 This disposal and removal I regret exceedingly, 
 because it takes from the interest, and even in some 
 degree from the identity of Athens. Considering 
 the quantity of sculpture which has been found 
 in good condition by the Earl of Elgin, (the west- 
 ern end of the cell still exhibiting an unrivalled 
 frieze, which, being quite accessible from the build- 
 ings on the opposite side, might easily have been 
 destroyed by the Turks,) little depredation seems 
 to have been committed in the way of pounding 
 and burning into lime ; especially when we take 
 into account the Metopes at the western end, which 
 have all the appearance of being corroded and de- 
 stroyed by time. 
 
 From what I have ventured to advance, I do not 
 mean it to be understood, that the Turks, any 
 more than ourselves, are free from the sin of de- 
 stroying buildings ; but that it appears to me, 
 they are not barbarous, as is alleged, with regard 
 to sculptured marbles. Have not the Phygalion 
 marbles been found where they fell by accident or 
 time? Those likewise of the Temple of Jupiter 
 Panhellenius, in the Island of Egina ? And there 
 is reason to believe, too, that excavation would dis- 
 cover the treasures of Minerva Sunias at Cape 
 Colonni. Here, in Athens, the Temple of The- 
 seus is still entire, and almost appears like a build- 
 ing of the present day ; metopes, frieze, and all 
 are yet untouched. Then that little gem, the 
 
 VOL. II. X 
 
 y 
 
322 REMOVAL OF MARBLES REGRETTED. 
 
 Lantern of Demosthenes, though mouldered much 
 by time, still commands our admiration. The 
 Temple of the Winds is still entire, and the figures 
 might be studied with advantage even by the great- 
 est artist. If we reflect upon the many centuries 
 which have passed over them, and the delicate 
 sculpture by which they are enriched, we shall be 
 surprised they have existed to this day. Let us 
 not hiame the Turks unreasonably. * Time, and 
 war, and earthquakes, have done much to injure 
 
 Athens, t 
 
 On the subject of removing the sculpture from 
 the Temple of Minerva, I shall say little, al- 
 though I cannot help expressing my regret at the 
 unworkmanlike manner in which the deed was 
 done. Vast masses of the noble cornice were 
 thrown down and destroyed to obtain the metopes, 
 when they might have easily been procured by 
 
 • The French monk who placed one of the ancient inscrip- 
 tions, recording the riches of the Athenians, in the stair of a 
 kitchen, appears to me infinitely more barbarous than the 
 ienorant Turk. He must have seen this precious marble regu- 
 
 larly wearing away See Chandlers Greecey p. oo. 
 
 + The barbarians under Alaric, King of the Goths, remov- 
 ed the valuable treasures of antiquity ; the stately and magni- 
 ficent structures were converted into piles of ruin ! and Athens 
 was stripped of every thing splendid or remarkable. Synesius, 
 a writer of that age, compares the city to a victim, of which 
 the body had been consumed, and the hide only remained— 
 Chandlers Greece^ p. 535. 
 
 REMOVAL OF MARBLES REGRETTED. 3^3 
 
 cutting out the pannels. Good heavens ! to make 
 a quarry of a work of Phidias ! The men of taste 
 in Athens are unanimous in believing, that if this 
 proceeding had been represented to the Earl of 
 Elgin, he would not have allowed matters to have 
 gone so far, but kept to his original plan of merely 
 having casts and drawings. 
 
 That the Elgin marbles will contribute to the 
 improvement of art in England, cannot be doubt- 
 ed. They must certainly open the eyes of the 
 British artists, and prove that the true and only 
 road to simplicity and beauty, is the study of nature. 
 But had we a right to diminish the interest of 
 Athens for selfish motives, and prevent successive 
 generations of other nations from seeing those ad- 
 mirable sculptures ? The Temple of Minei-va was 
 spared as a beacon to the world, to direct it to the 
 knowledge of purity of taste. What can we say to 
 the disappointed traveller, who is now deprived of 
 the rich gratification which would have compensat- 
 ed his travel and his toil ? It will be little consola- 
 tion to him to say, he may find the sculpture of 
 the Parthenon in England. 
 
DORIC ORDER. 
 
 825 
 
 Observations on 
 
 LETTER LXVl. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 the Character and Expression of the Doric 
 Order. 
 
 In a conversation which I had with a celebrated per- 
 son here, he seemed to be of opinion that the Teni- 
 pie of Neptune at Pa;stum is superior to any ot the 
 temples of Athens ; that the true spirit and punty 
 of the Doric order is better prescr^-ed m it ; and 
 that enrichment of any description is foreign to 
 its character of severe simplicity, conveying the 
 idea of grandeur and durability. This, certainly, 
 I am not disposed to doubt, as far as the doctnnc 
 relates to the character of simple Done. * But, 
 
 • " The Doric order raay be thus .lefined :-A column wUh- 
 out a base, terminated by a capital, consisting of a square aba- 
 cus with an ovolo and annulets. An entablature cons.sUng of 
 three part,, architrave, frieze, and cornice; the arc .trave 
 plain, the frieze ornamented with triglyphs symmetr.cally d. - 
 Led. and a cornice with mutules. These are suffic.ent to 
 constitute a .lefmilior, and arc, I believe, all that can be assert. 
 
 that the order is suitable for only one distinguish- 
 able expression, I confess I am very sceptical. In- 
 deed, the various examples I have met with in« 
 cline me to think the contrary. The ancients im- 
 proved in architecture as well as sculpture, and 
 were not long in perceiving that this noble order 
 was comprehensive, and highly susceptible of va- 
 rious expression, and all equally compatible with 
 the spirit of the order. Callicrates and Ictinus 
 (the architects of the Parthenon) must have known 
 of the early and stupenduous Doric. Corinth af- 
 forded an illustrious example of it ; yet those great 
 artists had not thought it proper to adopt so rigid 
 a style, preferring rich and stately elegance for the 
 temple of the goddess who presided over reason 
 and the liberal arts. Indeed, it appears to me that 
 the buildings in question do not admit of such 
 comparison. Both are perfect, but both would not 
 answer for the same purpose, masculine grandeur 
 and feminine dignity requiring different attributes. 
 Comparing the Temple of Neptune with the Tem- 
 ple of Minerva as splendid works of art, I should 
 certainly give the preference to the latter. The 
 character of magnificent beauty is admirably sus- 
 
 ed without exception ; but some others ma}' be added as ne- 
 cessary to the beauty and perfection of the order, and which, 
 though not universal, are, however, general among the ex- 
 amples of antiquity,"— ^/A7« on the Doric Order, 
 
 J 
 
32(3 SUSCEPTIBLE OF GRANDEUU AND BEAUTV. 
 
 tained in the exquisite proportions of the edifice 
 itself; and when we add to it the incomparable 
 sculpture which adorned the tympanum, the me- 
 topes, and the frieze, sculptures unequalled in the 
 world, such a building certainly has higher claims 
 to admiration, than the severe simplicity of una- 
 domed grandeur. 
 
 That architecture is an art which has capabilities 
 of conveying a distinct expression of unmixed 
 grandeur, will not be doubted by those who have 
 see the severe and pure examples of the Doric at 
 Pgestum, (those stupenduous structures which must 
 be seen, in order to be comprehended, for, believe 
 me, there is not in Great Britain a single instance 
 of a building from which their character can be 
 illustrated,) and that it is also capable of convey- 
 ing the simple sentiment of beauty, is equally ap- 
 parent in surveying the little buildings of the Pan- 
 drosium, the Lantern of Demosthenes, atid vari- 
 ous other examples. In fact, the characters im- 
 pressed upon those buildings are as distinct from 
 one another, as that which sculpture has conveyed 
 in the strength of the Hercules Farnese, and the ex- 
 quisite beauty of the Venus de Medicis. From these 
 original elements, the skill of the ancient architects 
 knew how to compound a mixed and modified 
 character, not purely grand, nor purely beautiful, 
 but according as occasion required, partaking of 
 either. I shall not pretend to say that I am capa- 
 
 SUSCEPTIBLE OF GRANDEUR AND BEAUTY. S^^ 
 
 ble of guarding the mind against those predilec- 
 tions, or prejudices if you will, which sometimes, 
 without our knowing it, mingle themselves with 
 all our ideas of the venerable ages which are past. 
 But, placed as I now am among the ancient edi- 
 fices, and endeavouring to free myself from this 
 source of delusion as much as possible, every com- 
 parison which 1 have been able to institute, con- 
 firms me in the opinion, that the ancients possessed 
 that sagacity which enabled them to express the 
 peculiar sentiment they wished to convey, whether 
 that sentiment was of a single or of a mixed kind; 
 and to carry that expression to the very limits, be- 
 yond which, the building would have departed from 
 the character intended to be impressed upon it. 
 
 ^ 
 i 
 
LETTER LXVII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 The Arts Character of the Drawings of Hallcr, Lusieri, 
 
 and Faiivel. 
 
 With such examples of perfection before them, 
 in architecture and in sculpture, you may imagine 
 that many of the modern Athenians are profound 
 and skilful artists in both of these departments. 
 If you expect this, what will be your disappointment 
 when I tell you, that none of them seems to have a 
 single idea regarding either ? Their buildings are 
 rudely constructed, without the smallest sign of 
 taste ; and, unless it be a Turkish turbaned grave- 
 stone, sculpture is not attempted. Their paint- 
 ings, which are always of Scriptural subjects, are 
 generally assisted by the aid of metal. Crowns of 
 silver are placed on the heads of the Virgin and 
 Child, and circles of the same metal upon the 
 saints ; the back-grounds being stamped and gild- 
 ed. This mixture of painting, gilding, and 
 stamping, is of a very early date, and that it should 
 be here, at Athens, esteemed at the present day, 
 demonstrates unequivocally on what fortuitous cir- 
 
 
 I 
 
 HOPELESS STATE OF ARTS IN GREECE. 3^9 
 
 cumstances the state of human taste depends. 
 These productions, of course, are wholly executed 
 by the Greeks ; and I question whether the Trans- 
 figuration by Raphael, or the Holy Families by 
 Correggio, would please them nearly so well. 
 From early associations they must be more attach- 
 ed to those pictures, before which they have so 
 often appeared on bended knees. Are we not 
 ourselves, from analogous causes, delighted often 
 with very clumsy workmanship of ancient years ? 
 And do we not prefer it, in many cases, to better 
 works of contemporary art ? So powerful is asso- 
 ciation in modifying our sentiments, even in op- 
 position to our judgment or taste. 
 
 The total apathy of the Athenians, and I may say 
 of the Greeks in general, towards the arts, even to 
 their music, extends itself to the elegancies of life, 
 to their jewellery, printing, engraving, and pottery. 
 Good taste is nearly allied to comfort. But here 
 their gardens, furniture, and, in short, every kind 
 of workmanship, betray an equal want of both. Till 
 the principles of art be cultivated among them, 
 they can hope for little progress ; and, even then, if 
 the spirit and feeling of the people be not excited, 
 the mind must sleep. Man must have a motive 
 for his toil, — the approbation of his countrymen, 
 or the hope of gain. Neither of these can be ex- 
 pected at present in this impoverished and degraded 
 country, where, I may say, accomplishment is 
 
330 
 
 FOREIGN ARTISTS, 
 
 despised, or, at least, does not meet with that re- 
 gard which it so justly merits. What a contrast 
 to ancient times! when " an eminent painter, 
 an ingenious architect, and skilful statuary, enjoy- 
 ed among the Greeks the highest consideration, 
 and the most flattering distinctions. The laurel 
 was bestowed on them by the consenting voice of 
 the country ; and their names were celebrated by 
 posterity at festivals and on public occasions ;— a 
 city valuing itself as much on having produced an 
 artist celebrated for his talents, as for having given 
 birth to a statesman or a general of the highest 
 merit. To this elegant and liberal turn of mind 
 Greece owed that pre-eminence and superiority 
 in the arts, which it enjoyed over other nations." 
 If, as it is said, the arts follow or accompany 
 knowledge and power, what hope can be entertain- 
 ed of their revival among the modem Greeks ? 
 
 But though the Turks and Greeks are yet in 
 ignorance respecting art, Athens is seldom with- 
 out foreigners of genius and refinement. At pre- 
 sent there are several. Baron Haller,* Lusieri, and 
 Fauvel, who do honour to their respective coun- 
 tries, have been here for years. The architectural 
 drawings of Baron Haller are inferior to none ; 
 and his taste for landscape is judicious and correct. 
 
 ♦ Since this letter was written, the world has to regret the 
 loss of this accomplished person. He died in Greece to. 
 wards the end of the year 1817. 
 
 LUSIERf. 
 
 3SX 
 
 Lusieri, so well known in the transaction of the 
 Athenian marbles, is likewise a man of great abi- 
 lity m the delineation of the country and its splen- 
 did ruins. Fauvel excels in modelling from an- 
 cient sculptures ; his drawings, too, are masterly 
 
 and free. 
 
 Believing you might wish me to be more parti- 
 cular in characterizing the works of these celebrat- 
 ed men, I shall venture to give you a brief state- 
 ment of their respective merits, but principally re- 
 garding their outlines or drawings from nature. 
 Lusieri's designs are upon a considerable scale in 
 length, not less than seven or eight feet, and ge- 
 nerally they embrace the eighth of a circle ; he 
 has even one, a View of Constantinople, eighteen 
 feet by three or four feet high, comprehending the 
 fourth of a panorama. These drawings are mere- 
 ly careful outlines, done with a hard pencil or 
 crow-pen, and no attempt is made at light and 
 shade. He takes an incredible time in doing them : 
 the outline of Constantinople alone was a study 
 of three months ; and the rest in proportion. He 
 generally ha^ several outlines in a progressive state 
 from various quarters of Athens, so that, let the 
 wind blow as it may, he can always secure to him- 
 self a comfortable situation to proceed in colouring. 
 As he finishes his drawings chiefly upon the spot, 
 this precaution saves him from many interruptions. 
 The atmosphere of Greece being very clear and 
 
332 
 
 LUSIERI. 
 
 BARON IIALLER. 
 
 333 
 
 luminous, (except when the sultry su-oo invests the 
 country in an opaque and whitish mist,) the sun 
 seeming to throw his rays unmixed from heaven 
 to earth, the details of nature are seen even in ob- 
 jects removed to a great distance, and claim a con- 
 sequence, to which, if seen through a British at- 
 mosphere, they would have no pretensions, and, 
 therefore, require an accuracy of delineation suit- 
 able to the appearance which they exhibit. This 
 Signor Lusieri has minutely attended to, but I 
 have more than once presumed to think that he 
 carried those details a little too far, farther, in- 
 deed, than nature seems to authorize, and without 
 that peculiar character which is referable to her, 
 exciting painful feelings on reflecting on the weari- 
 some toil and trouble such outlines must have cost 
 him. On examining the subjects from which se- 
 veral of his outUnes have been made, I confess I 
 could not perceive the minutia; described in them, 
 which has led me to suppose he must have used a 
 telescope. I mention these particulars, because 
 I know they will be interesting to you ; and by 
 the way, I may hint that a glass is not to be de- 
 spised in cases where a little careful marking might 
 be necessary. I saw only one coloured drawing 
 by Lusieri, and that consists of a few columns of 
 the Temple of Minerva. It is a meritorious work 
 of art, as far as relates to breadth of effect, and 
 truth of light and shade, without mannerism or 
 
 1 
 
 fallacious touching. The colouring, however, is 
 rather heavy, and seems to be shaded with Indian 
 ink, which loses its clearness where there is any 
 depth of shadow. A partiality to any sort of 
 colours often leads the eye astray, and is much 
 against the discrimination of those delicate and 
 tender hues which require the nicest care. In 
 nature the subject of Signor Lusieri's drawing 
 abounds in clear and fascinating dyes, and I re- 
 gretted that an eye, which has been so highly cul- 
 tivated in all that relates to form, should be so de- 
 fective in perceiving justly the distinctive qualities 
 
 of delightful colour. 
 
 The Baron Haller's drawings of landscape are 
 extremely good ; the subjects chosen with taste, 
 and executed in a free and masterly manner, with 
 due attention to the details of nature. His tem- 
 ples of classic buildings and ornaments, m particu- 
 lar, are full of characteristic and exquisite precision. 
 He has discovered, too, a new region of beauty m 
 the Turkish tombs and cemeteries * at Constant!- 
 nople. In colouring I cannot say the Baron is 
 successful, and it appears to me he does not study 
 this department of his art upon the spot. He is 
 aware, however, that it can never be acquired with- 
 
 • Baron Hallcr is of opinion that there is a pretty good 
 taste for architcclurc in Constantinople. 
 
 
33l! 
 
 BARON HALLER. FAUVEL. 
 
 FAUVEL. 
 
 335 
 
 
 *l 
 
 
 in doors, and has detennined to prove that ima- 
 gination cannot boast of hues like those of nature. 
 
 In style Baron Haller never fails to seize with 
 firmness the characteristic beauties of his subject, 
 and to give them correct expression, even in simple 
 outline. His feeling for grace and beauty is chaste 
 and delicate, and prevails through all his works. 
 With such truth, indeed, does he embody some of 
 the finer and more evanescent traits of delicacy, 
 that, on seeing them so distinctly expressed, we feel 
 surprised at our not having recognised in nature 
 itself, that which his representation has rendered 
 so palpable and striking. From the survey of his 
 works, we return to the study of nature with a 
 more informed eye and more discriminating taste. 
 Signor Lusieri, on the other hand, makes his out- 
 lines with the intention of finishing the subject in 
 colours on the spot, in which case a comparison 
 can hardly be made between those artists. It 
 is, however, to be regretted, that Signor Lusieri, 
 in all probability, will leave the most of those ex- 
 tensive outlines unfinished, and therefore the want 
 of that peculiar expression which is to be found in 
 Baron Haller's drawings, will take much from the 
 warmth of interest, with which we should otherwise 
 contemplate such pleasing delineations. 
 
 The works of Monsieur Fauvel are very differ- 
 ent from those of either of these gentlemen. They 
 are done with a rapid hand, clever, but with a little 
 
 ostentatious dashing, exciting some surprise in re- 
 gard to execution, but certainly producing no 
 pleasing train of sentiment in the mind. His mo- 
 dels, however, are in better style ; still it does not 
 appear that he can bring himself to enter into the 
 details of accurate finishing. The varieties of style 
 are absolutely endless ; but those alone which in- 
 struct the mind, and approach to all conquering 
 nature, can ever hope to be handed to posterity. 
 
LETTER LXVIIL 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Circuit of the Toivn and Acropolis ^ to establish the Jined 
 Points of Vietv. — Necessity/ of such a Circuit — Effects of 
 near and distant Views. — View from Mount Lijcabettus, — 
 Effects of Clouds, — Skies the principal Machinery of Nature. 
 JVaiwode and IVives. — Monument of Philopnppus . 
 
 Athens, with its Acropolis, is not more interest- 
 ing to the antiquarian and classical scholar, from the 
 associations connected with them, and the fine 
 monuments of ancient art which they contain, than 
 to the painter, as combining in the most charming 
 varieties with the surrounding country. With the 
 intention of ascertaining the most interesting points 
 of view, I have made a circuit, beginning at the 
 Temple of Theseus, and ascending by the Lyca- 
 bettus, to the hill of the Museum. * From thence 
 I descended to the Ilissus, visited the Fountain of 
 Callirhoe, the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, and 
 continued my circuit by Mount Anchesmus, till I 
 returned to the Temple of Theseus. 
 
 * From Museus a poet, (and disciple of Orpheus,) " who 
 used to recite his verses there, and who, dying of extreme 
 old asc, was there buried." — Pausanias. 
 
 NECESSITY OF SUCH A CIRCUIT. 
 
 537 
 
 This circuit may be easily accomplished in two 
 hours and a half, allowing a few minutes to ex- 
 amine some of the principal objects. * But I 
 was not so expeditious ; for, beginning early 
 in the morning, my investigation was not com- 
 pleted till the day w^as near a close. It was ne- 
 cessary that I should often leave the course, in 
 order to satisfy myself with regard to those points 
 which to me seemed to promise the most cha- 
 racteristic views ; and, although the day certainly 
 was one of the most interesting in my life, I do 
 not know that I ever suffered more from mental 
 and personal fatigue. 
 
 To those who have not studied much from 
 nature, this may appear to have been an idle 
 waste of time ; but the artist, who knows how 
 necessary it is to get the great and striking 
 objects to combine with subordinate yet interest- 
 ing details, and that without the former losing 
 any thing of their importance, will readily ad- 
 mit the necessity of this preliminary investiga- 
 tion. Those who dispense with such trouble, 
 and at once fix upon the view which first occurs, 
 will often have reason for regret, in discovering 
 that they might have made a happier choice. In- 
 deed, with the most careful examination, it often 
 happens that the finest views escape us. This par- 
 
 ♦ The ancient circumference of the walls of Atheng was 
 24 miles and a half, but that embraced the ports. 
 
 VOL, II. Y 
 
338 EFFECTS OF NEAR AND DISTANT VIEWS. 
 
 ticular attention being necessary to scenery in ge- 
 neral, surely Athens demands, in this respect, our 
 most careful study. 
 
 It is impossible to give rules to others in regard 
 to choice, — taste being so often under the control 
 of accident and feeling. When nature presents 
 her endless effects of beauty and of grandeur, the 
 judgment, even of the wisest men in art, may 
 hesitate, and adopt the very opposite to that which 
 had at first appeared to be the most eligible. The 
 works of our greatest painters, therefore, can only 
 shew what has been done, but do not determine what 
 may be done. They animate and improve, but na- 
 ture instructs the mind beyond those limits to which 
 the study of art alone can carry it. But while she 
 possesses the inexhaustible sources of originality, she 
 must be courted, and seen, as it were, reflected in the 
 mirror which art holds up to her. Unless we are 
 familiar with what has been discovered by her fa- 
 voured sons, she will not present those electrify- 
 ing truths, which flash upon the mind in studying 
 her, not only as she is, but as seen through the 
 medium of works of genius. 
 
 The works of Niccolo Poussin, Domenichino, 
 and Sebastian Bourdon, agree with the character 
 of Athens, as viewed at no great distance from the 
 ancient buildings. The simple dignity of form 
 and colour, perceptible in the works of these great 
 men, enters into the spirit of its story, and calls 
 
 VIEW FROM LYCABETTUS. 
 
 339 
 
 forth corresponding sentiments. The distant views 
 of Athens claim the style of Claude : his unbroken 
 lines, that continuity and taking up of parts, sweetly 
 transferring them to each other, and conveying to 
 the mind the sentiment of beauty, well express 
 what Athens is in her robes of silvery grey. The 
 colouring, too, of Claude is just and accurate, as re- 
 ferable to Greece in her remote and lovely scenes. 
 His luminous and unsullied purity of atmosphere, 
 his delicate and undisturbed breadth of air, reveal 
 to the eye the most fascinating hues in tender 
 unison with each other. Those points, too, of de- 
 cided colour, which he never fails to place in har- 
 mony against mysterious and bewitching tones of 
 air, are supplied in all the scenery, of Athens, by 
 the bright robes of the Turks and Greeks. 
 
 But how have I come to wander thus ? You will 
 say I am out of my course indeed ; and not likely 
 soon to take you round the walls of Athens. I 
 grant I have digressed, and without further loss of 
 time, I shall start again from the lovely fane of 
 Theseus. At a little distance from the Temple 
 is the Lycabettus, wliich is part of the hill of the 
 Museum, and, perliaps, affords the finest and 
 most characteristic view of the Acropolis and 
 Theatre of Regilla : * especially if taken near the 
 Pnyx, a noble object for the fore-ground, it 
 
 * A Koniun building hujlt by Hcroilias Atticiis, in com- 
 pliment to Ijib wife Regilla, 
 
340 
 
 EFFECTS OF CLOUDS. — S-KIES. 
 
 rises, crowned by the Parthenon, between the 
 Mounts Hyinettus and Anchesmus. 
 
 The Parthenon, opposed to clouds, appears with 
 greater dignity than when the mountains interfere, 
 and, indeed, it seems of greater size. The great 
 and sweeping lines, subduing all detail, appeal strong- 
 ly to the mind, and claim the character of grandeur. 
 The pyramidal form of the rock and buildings of the 
 Acropolis, as seen from near the Pnyx, is a favourite 
 with the painter; and when the horizontal streaks of 
 the morning sky appear behind, the idea of ele- 
 vation is much increased, as would, indeed, be the 
 case with any object, even if on a plain. Should 
 it rise through various tiers of clouds, it mat- 
 ters not whether they be of any magnitude, the 
 idea of height will certainly be excited, if the clouds 
 should be but narrow lines. And here I may ven- 
 ture to observe, that the skies are the principal ma- 
 chinery of nature. How often do they conjure up 
 the episodes of beauty or of grandeur ? Without 
 them, the bare truth of outline would be vapid. 
 They take up, they assist, or they oppose the vari- 
 ous objects which seem to court their aid : and 
 what do they not teach by their constant changing, 
 and directing the light of heaven to gild those parts, 
 where the most daring mind would not have ven- 
 tured to conceive it, — leaving masses in mysteri- 
 ous shade, and other parts invested with strange 
 uncertain hues of colour from reflected light ? The 
 
 WAIWODE AND WIVES. 
 
 341 
 
 divided rays, too, will stream among the dubious 
 forms, and anon with magic swiftness will change 
 the illumined parts to darkness, and the dark ones 
 into light ! 
 
 Ascending further on the Hill of the Museum, 
 close upon the Monument of Philopappus, the 
 view next in picturesque effect appears ; but, being 
 high, the Mounts Pentelicus and Anchesmus rise 
 above the Acropolis, and reduce it a little lower in 
 the scale of grandeur. But the exquisite aerial 
 hues of the distant mountains, contrasted with the 
 rich colouring of the varied buildings, produce the 
 finest harmony for picture. 
 
 While studying this affecting scene, and while my 
 eye was on the road to Marathon, I was roused and 
 accosted by an Albanian soldier, who came to tell me 
 that the Waivvode (the governor of the city; was ap- 
 proaching with all his wives. This was an intimation 
 for me to leave the place ; for no one must look upon 
 a Turkish lady, even though she veils her face. You 
 may be sure I did not tarry long ; but desirous to 
 know the result of this adventure, I placed myself 
 in a situation where I could see the party at a little 
 distance. First then a janizary appeared with a car- 
 pet and some wine ; then followed the waiwode with 
 a friend, both richly dressed in Turkish costume, 
 with turbans white as snow. The Turks proceeded 
 to examine the hill to see that all was clear ; while 
 the ladies, four in number, advanced at a distance 
 
34S 
 
 WAIWODE AND WIVES. 
 
 from the lordly Turks, and from each other, with their 
 faces as usual muffled to their noses. The soldier 
 spread the carpet for the Turks, on which they 
 squatted down, and smoked and drank their wine ; 
 while the ladies, in a tottering sort of gait, wander- 
 ed separately to and fro : occasionally they would 
 stoop to pick the flowers of the squill, but none of 
 them approached their master. This stupid sicken- 
 ing scene continued for an hour. When tlie Turks 
 arose, they proceeded on the path from Philopap- 
 pus, which was close upon my station ; but, as 
 soon as I was seen by them, they made a sudden 
 lialt, and not wishing to disturb me a second time, 
 they struck oflF to the right, and marched through 
 fields of growing corn. The ladies veiled their 
 eyes with gauze, 
 
 ** And thus through mists we see the sun, 
 Which else we durst not look upon.'* 
 
 They were large in person, dressed in simple 
 woollen habits, and wore no stockings. What an 
 idea does this scene give of the state of the unhappy 
 women of this country ! What respect can a son 
 have for his mother or his sister, while he sees the 
 poor female sunk so low ? Can he even have af- 
 fection, that blessing of the human heart ? But in- 
 stead of pursuing these reflections, I shall proceed 
 to follow the circle of that sceneiy, which will lead 
 
 MONUMENT OF PHILOPAPPUS. 
 
 343 
 
 me back to days when women could command re- 
 spect in Greece. 
 
 When the Turks were fairly out of sight, my 
 janizary and I reascended the Hill of the Museum, 
 and gave a little time to the Monument of Philo- 
 pappus. It is a Roman structure of white marble, 
 but not in the finest taste, approaching to a semicir- 
 cular form. The figures in the niches are sadly 
 mutilated by time. Stuart is of opinion that this 
 monument was erected to the last king of Comma- 
 gene and his descendants ; and this conjecture 
 seems to be confinned. * The relievo on the base- 
 ment is almost exactly the same as that on the 
 eastern side of the arch of Titus at Rome, consisting 
 of a figure in a car drawn by horses, preceded by 
 attendants, and followed by victory. From this 
 monument, we went to the fountain of Callirhoe, 
 
 ** Where oft enchanted with Socratic sounds, 
 Ilissus pure devolv'd his tuneful stream 
 In gentle murmurs." 
 
 * In the first niche on the right is a statue scdent ; and 
 underneath an inscrij)tion in Greek. " King AntiochuSj 
 son of King Antiochus/* In the middle niche is another sta- 
 tue and inscription. " Philopappus, son of Antiochus Epi- 
 phanes of Bisa." These were the ancestors of the person^ 
 vho, it is probable, filled the third niche. His name was 
 Caius Julius Antiochus Philopappus, and he lived under 
 Trajan. — Chandler, p. 08. 
 
TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPIUS. 
 
 345 
 
 LETTER LXIX. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 ContinuatiQn and conclusioji of the Circuit of Athens^ which 
 includes Jupiter Olympius. — The View J^rom Hagio Aso» 
 mato and Momit AnchesmuSt Colonus HippiuSy and the 
 Academif. — Tomb of Pericles . 
 
 J HE poets have given such flowery and overcharg- 
 ed descriptions of every feature of Greece, that the 
 mind involuntarily startles on seeing the realities, 
 and secretly inquires whether these be really the 
 objects which the poets celebrate. The Ilissus in 
 particular excites disappointment. The words of 
 the Bard of Paradise Regained, "Tliere Ilissus rolls 
 his whispering stream," would not now correspond 
 with this water-course, and even the whispering 
 does not apply. As it exists at present, I can give 
 you no better account of it, than by saying that I 
 have walked its channel bed for nearly an hour, 
 without my feet being wet, except when I inad- 
 vertently stepped among the water-cresses in the 
 various hollows. But in ancient times, the water 
 of this stream has been collected to supply the once 
 
 " cool and delicious fountain of Callirhoe," and it 
 might have had a placid, quiet, and serene expres- 
 sion, inviting the philosophers to walk and study 
 on its banks, which were graced with altars and 
 with temples, beside the " high, shady, and fra- 
 gi-ant thicket of the Agnus Castus,'* forming 
 scenery deserving of the praises bestowed on it by 
 Socrates. Now, alas ! there is no wood nor build- 
 ings on its banks : all is bare and desolate, and the 
 Fountain of Callirhoe can merely supply trickling 
 water for the labours of a few half-starved washer- 
 women. 
 
 But the disappointment which we experience 
 in viewing the condition of the ancient foun- 
 tain, and the nearly lost Ilissus, is amply repaid 
 by the majestic ruins of the Temple of Jupiter 
 Olympius, and the south-east prospect of the Acro- 
 polis of Athens, as seen from the fountain, and 
 near the spot supposed to be the situation of the 
 Eleusinium, looking over the ground once graced 
 by the Lyceum * and Ceramicus. t The rocks of 
 Callirhoe, though conveying no idea of the ancient 
 fountain, still constitute an object inviting to the 
 painter ; and fortunately the ruins of Jupiter Olym- 
 pius, the Arch of Hadrian, and the Acropolis, with 
 the Odeum of Regilla, and hill of the Museum, 
 combine to admiration. The scene, though not 
 
 * Sacred to Apollo Lycius. 
 
 f Where gymnastic exercises wore performed. 
 
 : U 
 
 
346 
 
 TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPIUS. 
 
 STADIUM. — HAGIO ASOMATO. 
 
 347 
 
 SO striking as the view from Lycabettus, is, from 
 various associations, deeply interesting. Here 
 were performed the rites of the Eleusinian myste- 
 ries ; here were the walks and hallowed haunts of 
 the philosophers. On this spot I took my station 
 for the general view. The Temple of Jupiter 
 Olympius is of the Corinthian order, supported on 
 fluted marble columns, Go feet in height ; and, like 
 the other temples, it is enriched with a variety of 
 beautiful golden hues. From a small flight of 
 steps, * about 40 yards on the side towards the Ilis- 
 sus, we have the finest view of this noble structure. 
 Here Grecian magnificence will strike the mind 
 with wonder, nor will it appear surprising that this 
 splendid work remained unfinished for more than 
 700 years ; — no monarch, from the time of Pisis- 
 tratus to the days of Hadrian, having possessed 
 power and riches sufficient to put the finishing 
 hand to it. The Arch of Hadrian seems un- 
 worthy of his time, but as a connecting link be- 
 tween the mass of pillars of Jupiter Olympius, 
 which support their architraves, and the three de- 
 tached columns belonging to the same range which 
 approach the city, it is not without its use, and its 
 defects are, from such a distance, scarcely observ- 
 able. 
 
 * From u hence, in dry seasons, it is said, prayers arc offered 
 up to hciiven for rain. 
 
 From the Fountain of Callirhoe I went to the 
 Stadium of Herodes Atticus, and found its site 
 merely perceptible. The olive trees of Hagio 
 Asomato invited me to deviate from my course, 
 and, as I expected, I was well rewarded by a variety 
 of exquisite views of Athens. No finer subjects 
 ever were presented to the pencil. The grove of 
 olive took its part with the monastery of Asomato, 
 and the snowy mountains of the Morea refreshed 
 the eye while looking through the sultry air, which 
 gave to Athens the warmest tone of grey. The 
 various windings of the Ilissus met the Temple of 
 Jupiter Olympius, the pale light on which uniting 
 with the illumined fields, and these advancin^T to 
 the iEgean Sea, produced a smile upon the land- 
 scape, which cheered old Athens in its day of ruin. 
 
 Yet, striking as the scene appeared, it must 
 be poor, compared with what it was in ancient 
 days. Imagine, united to the objects which I 
 have just described, the Temples of Venus, Juno, 
 Diana, Apollo, Jupiter, and Saturn, with many 
 others ; the Gymnasium of Hadrian, the Cynosar- 
 ges, the Delphinium, Eleusinium, and Stadium 
 of Herodes Atticus. Then the rivers Ilissus and 
 Eridanus gleaming through the various groves, 
 the favourite resort of the philosophers and their 
 
 followers, who mingled with the beams of heaven, 
 
 emblematic of the light they have given to the 
 world by the splendour of their minds. 
 
 
 ;i 
 
 s 
 
 3ril 
 
348 
 
 VIEW FROM MOUNT ANCHESMUS. 
 
 VIEW FROM MOUNT ANCHESMUS. 
 
 349 
 
 Proceeding by the way towards Mount Anches- 
 mus, innumerable pleasing views appeared, but the 
 finest is from the mount itself, and certainly affords 
 by much the best idea of the modern city, with the 
 Acropolis towering over it. This scene is compos- 
 ed, in part, of the objects I have mentioned in a 
 former letter, as seen from the top of the Temple 
 of Minerva ; but that from Mount Anchesmus has 
 many combining features which keep the whole to- 
 gether in one chain of interest. The scene presents 
 a picture, independently of association, without a 
 parallel. Its character is unmingled beauty. Viewed 
 from Mount Anchesmus, Athens presents itself as an 
 entire uninterrupted whole. The intervening space 
 is such as softens, and forbids to obtrude those indivi- 
 dual forms, and those local tints, which, on a nearer 
 survey, are so apt to solicit our attention to particu- 
 lars, and from the contemplation of the whole, 
 carry us insensibly into an attention to individual 
 parts. Every true lover of beautiful scenery can 
 testify the delight, the calm, soothing delight, which 
 a favourite scene, seen under such circumstances, 
 has the power of imparting. 
 
 In colouring, the view from Mount Anchesmus 
 induces on the mind the dream of Athenian glory. 
 Uncertain hues and forms are presented to the eye, 
 which require a gentle yet pleasing exertion of the 
 mind to study them, leaving an impression of tender 
 melancholy ;— a style of colouring between that of 
 
 Claude and Caspar Poussin, in which the atmo- 
 sphere must not wholly interfere to destroy the 
 effect of local colour, but allow streaming lights to 
 travel from scene to scene, as the clouds shall per- 
 mit the sun's bright ray to gild them. * 
 
 Colonus Hippius, t once the property of Plato ; 
 where, too, Sophocles was born and lived, and at a 
 short distance the site of the academy where Plato 
 
 * In landscape, light and unity of colouring, produced 
 by air, chielly excite the sentiment of beauty. But the 
 harmony of direct colouring, with powerful and opposing 
 light and shade, aUies itself to grandeur. Objects then, ac- 
 cording to their nature and situation, should partake, in a 
 greater or less degree, of the one or the other of these attri- 
 butes of character. Such as may be grand when near, will 
 assume a different character by distance, and require a change 
 of treatment. Thus, the view of Athens from Mount An- 
 chesmus induces, as I have said, the dream of Athenian glory, 
 or, in other words, that general feeling which we have on our 
 minds with regard to it. Independent, too, of colouring, whea 
 near the city, there are affecting details which appeal strong. 
 Jy to the mind. No one can look upon the divisions of the 
 columns of the temples, burnt by Xerxes, built in the forti- 
 fication walls of the Acropolis, or on the steps of the Pnyx, 
 without being strikingly reminded of facts in the history of 
 the country. This rousing quality, both of detail and co- 
 lour, loses itself by distance, and gives way to undecided 
 recollections. 
 
 f Colonus Hippius is now a barren rock with little vege- 
 tation, about a mile from Athens, and a short way in ad- 
 vance of the site of the academy, a little to the right. 
 
350 
 
 TOMB OF PEUICLES. 
 
 taught, successively engaged my attention. They 
 were both within the sacred grove, and three short 
 words may tell their fate — tliey are gone ! and we 
 must sit upon the ground to muse, for not a stone re- 
 mains upon which to seat ourselves ! The views of 
 Athens, however, from these two celebrated places 
 are extremely fine. Mount Hymettus takes a great- 
 er share in the scenery than from any other point, 
 but it reduces in appearance the size of Athens 
 and her temples. 
 
 I returned to the city by what is called the Tomb 
 of Pericles, — a rude unshapen mass. That it is the 
 remains of the Tomb of Tericles, I have my doubts ; 
 yet certainly his tomb nmst have been at no great 
 distance from the spot, as it was known to be but 
 a little off the road to the academy. Be that as 
 it may, it is impossible not to feel a reverence for 
 the memory of that great man, while near the 
 ground where his sacred ashes have been laid. The 
 eye naturally directs itself to that splendid monu- 
 ment of mind, * erected by him in the Acropolis, 
 and turns to the scene of barbarism around. One 
 is led to believe that the Supreme power, by allow- 
 ing these opposite extremes to exist together, in- 
 tended them as a means of forcibly conveying to 
 the world the results of wisdom, and of murky 
 ignorance ; making the latter seem the more re- 
 volting by the immediate and striking contrast. 
 
 LETTER LXX. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 Description of the Streets, Markets ^ and Dance of Dervishes. 
 
 On returning from my circuit of the city, I could 
 not help remarking that the ancient temples owe 
 much of their apparent size to the small ness of the 
 modern buildings, which, like those of the other 
 towns we have seen, are chiefly constructed with 
 clay. But, though insignificant in appearance, 
 they cover a very considerable extent of ground, 
 for a population not exceeding twelve or thirteen 
 thousand souls. If we except the Acropolis and 
 temples, the few Turkish mosques (four in num- 
 ber) are the only features which give variety, and 
 these are much inferior to those of Livadia. The 
 Greek chapels rarely appear above the private 
 houses. Within the walls are many fields, and the 
 vacant spaces are strewed about with bones, old 
 slippers, and a multiplicity of rags, a kind of rub- 
 bish peculiar to the towns in Greece, and which 
 give them an appearance of poverty and wretched- 
 ness. 
 " The streets are no better than those of Thebes or 
 
 ♦ The 'I'cmplc of Minerva. 
 
 I? 
 
352 
 
 STREETS. 
 
 MARKETS. 
 
 S53 
 
 Livadia ; narrow, without pavement, and winding 
 in every direction. Any windows that face the 
 streets are latticed up, and appear as if they could 
 not admit a ray of light. The houses are gene- 
 rally surrounded by courts or high walls built by 
 the jealous Turks, and, consequently, are not seen 
 except from the elevated ground. In wet weather 
 the principal street is rendered very uncomfortable 
 by the boughs of trees which are laid across from 
 roof to roof to keep out the rays of the sun. These 
 continue dropping long after the shower has ceased, 
 and make a wretched puddle. If carts or carriages 
 were used it would be quite impossible to walk ; 
 as it is, it requires some management to brush 
 past the numerous and heavy laden mules, especial- 
 ly when they carry sticks or bulky wares. 
 
 Athens being one of the superiortowns in Greece, 
 I expected to find some handsome shops, but no- 
 thing of the kind appears. The strangest mixtures 
 and varieties, — caviare, pipes, books, cloth, blue, 
 vitriol, grain, oil, honey, cheese, dried tish, &c. are 
 all jumbled together. Every article of wearing-ap- 
 parel seems clumsy and rudely made, — the iron 
 and carpenter's work in particular ; indicating that 
 Athens is now as far behind, as in ancient times 
 she outstripped the rest of the civilized world. 
 The inside of the chapels are covered with con- 
 temptible daubings of the histories and adventures 
 of the saints, in which they are represented per- 
 
 I 
 
 forming miracles, wJiich it is hardly possible for 
 human credulity to believe. The people are seen 
 lounging in idle groups in every street. The fast of 
 14^ days, united to the oppression of the govern- 
 ment, seems to have enervated tliem, and rendered 
 them quite unfit for any great achievement. 
 
 The market- day is kept on Sunday, when pro- 
 visions are to be had in considerable variety, and 
 very cheap. * The seeming confusion of tongues, 
 Romaic, Albanian, and Turkish, is not a little 
 bewildering to a stranger ; and when an Italian or 
 a French servant happens to be bargaining among 
 them, tlieir animated gestures render the scene 
 abundantly anmsing. In these markets I have 
 perceived a variety of fish, such as we had been 
 
 * As the purchases, however, are made by servants, some 
 imposition may be practised, though not to a great extent; 
 at any rate, most travellers must be exposed to it. We pay 
 here, in Athens, for a lamb, which is very small, five piasters, 
 according to exchange with England at this time about 
 3s. 4d. ; for half a sheep six shillings ; for a bottle of rum 
 three piasters, 2s., and for a bottle of wine of the countiy, 
 stroni;ly impregnated with resin, threepence. We never 
 tasted this ingredient so predominant as here. The reason 
 usually given for this practice is, that without resin the wine 
 would not keep. Dr Chelli, a Roman physician, attribute 
 the custom to the knavery of the Greeks, who, he said, used 
 the resin to prevent the discovering of the quantity of water 
 with which the wine is adulterated. 
 
 VOL. II. Z 
 
 h 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
35i 
 
 CARDFNS. 
 
 familiar with in the Mediterranean, red and grey 
 mullet, calamara or ink-fish, eels, marluzzo, &c. 
 Game, too, is not uncommon, especially wild ducks, 
 teal, thrushes, snipes, pigeons, woodcocks, bec- 
 cafico, hares, &c. ; but I have seen nothing rare 
 except the red-legged partridge, which is by no 
 means common. The vegetables are few, prin- 
 cipally garlic, onions, endive, radishes, broccoli ; 
 no potatoes or cabbages, or varieties of salads. 
 Grapes, melons, figs, oranges, and lemons, seem 
 to be the only varieties of fruit. In short, they 
 are much behind in gardening, and flowers are 
 seldom seen. The few gardens within the walls 
 of Athens (there are none without, nor any kind 
 of nursery of trees) principally belong to the 
 consuls and Franks, who appear to have as little 
 taste for them as the Greeks or Turks. * A few 
 orange and lemon trees, and one solitary palm, are 
 all they have to enliven or give relief to the wretch- 
 ed buildings. 
 
 ♦ The gardens are in the rear of the houses, and being the 
 frequent resort of the females of the family, are protected from 
 the observation of the passers by. Dr Chelli has a very pret- 
 ty garden (not large) full of orange and citron trees, and at- 
 tending it is a favourite occupation of the ladies of the family. 
 But such of the Turks as have gardens, have very commonly 
 the women's apartments opening into them and hence, they 
 are jealously shut against strangers. 
 
 MARKETS. LODGINGS. 
 
 355 
 
 But you will say I am escaping from the market. 
 Kid, goat, lamb, and mutton, constitute the only 
 choice of meat ; the last, in particular, is very bad, 
 almost as strong in taste as the flesh of the goat. The 
 cattle, wood, and wine market, is likewise held on 
 Sunday, in the afternoon. But do not suppose that 
 any thing like a drove of animals appears ; only a few 
 half-starved creatures are to be seen. The numerous 
 fasts are decidedly against the breeding of cattle. 
 Olives and bloodless fish are the principal articles 
 of food. When the town is full of strangers the 
 provisions rise in price ; yet, generally speaking, 
 they may be had about a third cheaper than 
 they can be purchased in England ; and, ba- 
 lancing one thing with another, the market prices 
 are much the same throughout the continent 
 of Greece. Wheaten bread is bad ; but a foreign- 
 er, now resident in Athens, has undertaken to 
 bake it in the Italian way, and even then it will be 
 tasteless without salt. 
 
 Hotels, inns, or taverns, they have none ; the 
 khans certainly do not come under these denomina- 
 tions ; — they have neither beds nor food, and are in 
 general totally destitute of comfort. Strangers must 
 look for lodgings in private houses, and the best of 
 these are to be had at the Consulina's, the convent 
 of the Capuchins, Dr Chelli's, and Signor Uitali's ; 
 and even in them the accommodation given is 
 considered partly in the light of a favour, no 
 
i 
 
 356 
 
 BRITISH CONSUL AND LADY. 
 
 no regular charge being made, and every traveller 
 giving according to bis inclination. A dollar a day 
 for each person is generally expected, and even 
 more, according to the accommodation required. 
 The houses which I have mentioned are generally 
 full of strangers, who, with the foreign residents, 
 (about a dozen families,) constitute what is called 
 the Frank society, the consuls forming the very 
 point or pinnacle of distinction among the latter. * 
 The British consul, Logotheti, (a Greek,) is most 
 attentive to our countrymen. At his table there 
 is comfort and cleanliness ; and I was not a little 
 surprised to see English knives and silver forks, 
 with a napkin put down before each person. 
 His lady, too, appeared at dinner, and, though she 
 said but little, she had self-possession, with easy 
 manners ; which, perhaps, will be preferred by 
 many to silly professions and fidgeting attentions. 
 Her dress was much the same as that of the Maid 
 of Athens, but with a greater appearance of wealth ; 
 
 GREEK LADIES. 
 
 357 
 
 • There is much talk of a mysterious lady who recently 
 Tisited Athens. She danced the llomeka, and the ladies of 
 
 l^r C boasted of their having been |)arties with her in 
 
 their national dance. At Corinth, the Bey, on the occasion 
 of her visit there, came down with a party of horse to meet 
 her, conducted her in form to his palace, and, in the course 
 of conversation, expressed, it is said, a Mahommedan feeling 
 of impropriety at the manner of her travelling unaccompanied 
 by a relative of either sex. 
 
 in beauty, however, she was not to be compared 
 with the fair Theresa ! She sat at the corner of 
 the table, understanding, I presume, that this is a 
 custom with our tonish ladies in old England. Not 
 more than three dishes were placed on the table at a 
 time. No one ventured to help himself till each 
 dish was taken to the landlord, so that if one does 
 not choose the first, he must wait with patience 
 till the second or the third is carved and presented to 
 him. In this respect, especially when the appe- 
 tite is keen, the English arrangement is certainly 
 preferable; and 1 am surprised that our worthy 
 host has neglected to imitate us in this important 
 circumstance. The lady retired soon after dinner, 
 but the gentlemen sat a considerable time, and, 
 wonderful to say ! no pipes were introduced. 
 
 The few Greek ladies I have met with are 
 generally of the middle size. None fo them 
 has the straight nose and forehead, which we un- 
 derstand to be peculiar to the Grecian counte- 
 nance. * They have greater liberty than the Turk- 
 ish females ; yet they aie seldom met with abroad, 
 except when going to the bath, a marriage, or a 
 funeral ; t but as they nurse their own children, 
 
 • The ancients acknowledged the straight forehead and nose 
 to be their beau ideal. 
 
 f A short time, however, before our arrival here, a French 
 frigate, on its destination to cruize lor the protection of the 
 
S5S 
 
 SUBMISSIOxX or TIIK GREEKS. 
 
 SUBMISSION OF THE GREEKS. 
 
 359 
 
 their confinement may be tolerable. Tliose who 
 mix with the Franks, or are related to their families, 
 are lively and easy in their manners ; but I cannot 
 say I have ever seen any thing like dignity. Dignity 
 without mind, one woukl think, could hardly exist ; 
 yet, in the stately gravity of the Turk, there is 
 something strangely imposing. When the Greeks 
 of Athens are inclined to be a little merry, and 
 have a ball, they must ask pennission from the 
 Turkish governor, nay, they cannot indulge in any 
 public game without first obtiiining leave ; and it 
 would not be advisable for a Greek to sing or 
 speak loud before the residence of a Turk of con- 
 sequence. 
 
 From the peculiar nature of the government, 
 the Greek is, in some degree, obliged to dissem- 
 ble, and use a little trickery. As the governor 
 
 Smyrna trade, put into the harbour of Athens. The gaiety of the 
 crew was very congenial to the Athenians, and they spoke in 
 raptures of the manners and hilarity of the French sailors. Se- 
 Teral entcrtaiuments had been given on board the frigate, and 
 the Romeka, between French and Grecian gaiety, was execut- 
 ed in high perfection. A short time afterwards, an Eng- 
 lish ship of war anchored in the Piraeus ; the captain had 
 his lady on board, and an entertainment was given to such 
 Athenians of both sexes as were eligible to be invited. A 
 grateful recollection of the entertainments exists in the minds 
 of the Athenians, but a preference seems to be felt towards 
 the manners of the rival nation. 
 
 purchases his situation annually, he will naturally 
 endeavour to make the best of his bargain. The 
 Greeks, therefore, pretend to be poorer than they 
 really are. In general they are indebted to the 
 government, and even, it is said, suffer themselves 
 to be imprisoned for several days before they pay 
 their tithes and duties. * Nevertheless, it is be- 
 lieved the Greeks and Turks live upon better 
 terms in Athens, than in any other town in Greece. 
 The Turks must see the veneration which all na- 
 tions have for that city, which was the parent of 
 philosophy and eloquence, and once the centre of 
 taste and genius. They must know, too, that if 
 the number of travellers who visit that devoted 
 city have any respect for the present inhabitants, 
 it is for the Greeks ; for, depraved and sunk as 
 they are, the liberal heart will ever cherish a kind- 
 ly feeling towards them, and will hardly refuse 
 
 * The Waiwode or governor of Athens gets a tenth of the 
 harvest in the neighbourhood of Athens. The ceremonial of 
 the old government by Archons is still kept up, but of 
 course the Turkish Waiwode is the person who really go- 
 verns. 1 he Disdar has nothing to say in any place but 
 the Acropolis, and is quite a petty officer, with not more 
 than fifteen or twenty men under him. The Kislar Aga, 
 or chief of the black eunuchs, appoints the governor of 
 Athens ; the Waiwode, however, is subject to the Bey of Ne- 
 gropont in matters of government. 
 
SGO 
 
 JUSTICE. MOSQUES* 
 
 them its pity, while reflecting that Athens is now 
 the property of a slave and eunuch. * Contempt will 
 not be shewn where gratitude is due. 
 
 Justice for the poor, I believe, is somewhat rare ; 
 the judge pays for his appointment, and of course 
 with him, as with the governor, money is omnipo- 
 tent. The priests are very numerous, and in good 
 personal condition ; but how so many are provided 
 for, where the population is so small, I was at a 
 loss to conjecture, till I recollected that it is the 
 residence of a High Priest, whose ecclesiastical 
 power extends over all Bceotia and part of the 
 Morea. Still it is a matter of wonder where the 
 people find means to support the clergy of nearly 
 SOO consecrated buildings in the town. 
 
 The Turks do not allow unbelievers to enter 
 their mosques. A positive prohibition exists at 
 Constantinople, and I believe generally throughout 
 Turkey. I have in different towns procured a 
 glance at several mosques, but have been compelled 
 to make my visit very short, for fear of insult. 
 They were mean in appearance, and destitute of or- 
 nament, — the naked walls being merely inscribed 
 here and there with passages from the Khoran. At 
 Constantinople, till of late years, the mosques might 
 be visited. It is said that the interdiction arose 
 from the Secretary of the Russian Embassy having 
 
 * The Kislar Aga, "luardian of the women of the scradio. 
 
 CLOCK. DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 S61 
 
 spat while in one of them ; he was with difficulty 
 rescued from death. 
 
 At Athens there is some approach to liberality. 
 In 1812, the Turks allowed Lord Elgin to put up 
 a clock with a Latin inscription, purporting it to 
 be a present from his Lordship to the people of 
 Athens ; * but they had to build a tower for it, an 
 expence at which they murmured considerably. A 
 clock in a town, under subjection to Turkisli go- 
 vernment, was said to be a circumstance before un-- 
 known ; but the Turks are very well satisfied with 
 their having permitted its erection. This, I believe, 
 is the only clock seen in a public situation in the 
 Turkish dominions : even bells are not permitted to 
 the Greeks, except in one or two places, of which 
 Mount Athos is one. The Mahommedan nations 
 niark the time of day by a cryer, who proclaims from 
 a little gallery attached to the mosque the hours of 
 prayer ; he turns himself first towards that point of 
 the compass which is in the hearing of Mecca, then 
 successively to the other three cardinal points. 
 
 Of all the modes of worship I ever met with, that 
 of the Dancing Dervishes seems the most extra- 
 ordinary. Yet one would think there is reason in 
 
 • Inscription on the Clock. 
 Thomas Comes de Elgin. 
 Athenien . HoiioL . D . D. 
 
 S . P . Q . A . ErEX . COLLOC 
 
 A.D. 18U. 
 
302 
 
 DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 their apparent madness ; certainly it prevents them 
 from being so corpulent as the lazy lounging 
 monks of Italy. Tiie general introduction of 
 such exercise in the monasteries might be attended 
 with some benefit, and be conducive to mental exer- 
 tion. There are no less than four societies of 
 them in Athens, all Turks, who do not worship in 
 the mosques. Their strange and frantic exhibi- 
 tions are held in the ancient Temple of the Winds, 
 which is not more than 25 or 26 feet in diameter. 
 When I saw them, about thirty collected and seat- 
 ed themselves cross-legged round the temple, and 
 sung and bowed their heads to the sound of three 
 little flat drums, struck forcibly with a strap or piece 
 of leather. The Sheik or chief, clothed in green, 
 swung his head lower and more forward than the 
 rest ; others followed as they began to be affected ; 
 a shout in the midst of their chaunt announced 
 the name of God and their prophet. The drums 
 began with a loud single beat, and all the Dervishes 
 kept tune with their heads. The beats and the 
 bowing quickened rapidly, when in an instant they 
 sprung to their feet, and resting on each other's 
 arms, formed a wide circle, leaning forward and 
 retiring a step alternately, chaunting all the time, 
 and moving slowly round in one great ring. Then 
 the Sheik stepped forward into the middle and 
 bowed round to all; others followed as they 
 began to feel the inspiration, forming an inner 
 
 DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 363 
 
 circle, with a young Dervish in the centre. The 
 outer circle still held together, the inner stood 
 separate ; exhaustion came on, and they bowed 
 only without turning round. The Sheik took off 
 his turban, and began to dance and jump extrava- 
 gantly; others followed, swinging their arms, stamp- 
 ing and jumping to the quickening beat of the tam- 
 bour ; when that became slower, the Sheik forced 
 some out, while others sprang forward of their own 
 accord to occupy the centre and exhibit their agility. 
 In these frantic exercises the turban generally fell 
 off, and their long hair, thrown over their ex- 
 hausted countenances, gave them all the character- 
 istic appearance of the votaries of Bacchus. They 
 became by degrees more frantic, and the quick and 
 violent beat of the tambour increased and kept 
 pace with the violence of their gestures. This 
 was succeeded by heavy single jumps and slower 
 time, till, by degrees, as before, the chaunt, 
 the tambour, and the dancing, became quicker 
 and more violent. The witches' dance in Al- 
 loway Kirk, as seen by Tarn o' Shanter, could 
 not have exceeded the rapidity of their motions. 
 Next they began to walk separately and slowly 
 round in a large circle to a sort of psalmody, each 
 as he passed the Sheik bowing low. Two Der- 
 vishes then came into the centre, taking a firm hold 
 of each other's tunic with the right hand, and foot 
 to foot, swinging round with the rapidity of a jack- 
 
3G4 
 
 DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 wheel, leaning inwards, breathing strong, with 
 faces raised, mouths open, and eyes half closed. 
 This lasted for a couple of minutes. They then 
 stopped abruptly, bowed to the Sheik, and retired 
 into the great circle, without the least appearance of 
 giddiness. A small circle of the younger Dervishes, 
 several of them boys, was then fonned, while 
 the elder resumed their pelisses, which they had 
 thrown aside to fit them for this act of devotion. 
 This inner circle turned round and back again, to 
 a loud monotonous chaunt. Part left the temple, 
 but a number remained seated on sheep skins and 
 chaunted Amen. Silence ensued, and all repeated 
 a prayer. After another short inteiTal of silence, 
 a second prayer was repeated, with their heads pro* 
 jected considerably into the circle ; then the whole 
 terminated with a long drawn tone, as if they had 
 been recovering from a swoon ; their heads rested 
 on their breasts ; they kissed the ground, and then 
 each other's hands, and retired, pausing a few mi- 
 nutes at the door, to pray for the repose of one 
 of their late superiors, who lies interred within the 
 temple. 
 
 LETTER LXXI. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Continuation of the description of Athens. — Philomouson 
 Society, — Grecian Music. — Games, — Dress — Usury. — 
 Weather. — Report oj the Plague, — Ignorance of the Greek 
 Physicians. — Opium-Eater. — Preparations for Departure, 
 — Resolve to visit Cape Colonni, — Apology for Signor 
 Lusieri. 
 
 From the increasing number of Franks who have 
 come to take up their peniianent residence in 
 Athens, as well as from the number of travellers, 
 who, since the general peace of Europe, are con- 
 tinually passing through this country, the Athe- 
 nians seem to have a better chance of receiving 
 a little of the light of literature. Several Franks 
 and Greeks have instituted a society which they 
 have denominated the Philomousoi, (^lAoyLovaoi^ 
 or lovers of letters and arts. Into this society 
 almost every w^ell informed stranger who visits 
 Athens may be admitted. * Their library is in- 
 creasing in books of various languages, but, as yet. 
 
 • This society has, I believe, for its object, to give the 
 means of a foreign education to as large a number of 
 Athenian youth as its funds may admit. 
 
366 
 
 riiiLo:\rousor. 
 
 consists chiefly of such as relate to the history and 
 antiquities of Greece. For this they are indebted 
 principally to the British, and I fondly hope that 
 this generous feeling may still go further, and 
 donations in money and valuable literary and scien- 
 tific works be made by the affluent, who have any 
 warmth of feeling toward this interesting country.* 
 Indeed, it would not be unreasonable to hope, that 
 every civilized nation would step forward, and 
 assist the Greeks of Athens in any praiseworthy 
 effort to improve their minds, and, even if they 
 
 * The funds are formed by donations, a part of which have 
 been raised in London, and from persons who have never 
 visited Greece. A donation of 20 dollars constitutes a per- 
 son an ETEPrETH2 or benefactor, a class of subscribers 
 which has some peculiar privileges in the manai^ement of the 
 institution, A diploma is presented to each ETEPrETIIS of 
 which the following is the form. 
 
 Kara rriv airrim rou 6 iufsviOTaro; x,6^wg _— ffuvriPid/uLridrj, 
 hi rov KaraXofovrr,; tv A*^jjva/; pXofiovtfou E'rai^nag, xa/ fvuiiZirat 
 hi TO i^rii fjbsXoi fvriffiov rou oXoxXr^ou durra eoofMarog xat wf 
 
 E'TEPFETHS 
 
 'El/ 'Adr^vai;. rr,, KF. 'Acr^/X' AHIZ. Erof. A. 
 0/ rrjg. <P, ^raiouai Ef o^o/. 
 Then follow the signatures — The classical scholar will 
 perceive, in the construction of the words ro-j b xu^wg, an ap- 
 parent violation of grammar. But the modern Greeks, 
 (I speak from the information of a learned friend,) alter put- 
 ting the article in the case which the syntax requires, give the 
 noun in the nominative, as in this example. 
 
 COLLEGE IN THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 367 
 
 should be a little hopeless or indolent themselves, 
 to stimulate them, and reflect back a little of that 
 light which originally came from them. 
 
 The enlightened Earl of Guildford has done much, 
 and is unceasingly endeavouring to be useful to this 
 country. * I have been told that his Lordship, with 
 the assistance of the British Government, proposes 
 to build and endow a college in one of the Ionian 
 Islands, t But, while any attempt is made to illu- 
 minate the minds of the men, I could wish the poor 
 females w^re not forgotten. There are, or might 
 
 * This year, the Earl of Guildford presented the city of 
 Athens with valuable sets of surgical instruments, of the most 
 perfect workmanship. 
 
 + When we were in the Ionian Islands, it was not settled 
 that Corfu should be the place for the erection of the college. 
 Ithaca was at that time designed for the purpose, and, in fact, it 
 possesses, from its situation with respect for the Continent of 
 Greece, greater local advantages than Corfu It is most grati- 
 fying to learn, that this enlightened and benevolent plan is now 
 realized. The Earl of Guildford has, within these few days, 
 been nominated chancellor of the university by the Prince 
 Regent ; and the University of Oxford, as a testimony of re- 
 spect to that nobleman, and of the interest which it takes in 
 the success of the institution over which he is appointed to 
 preside, has conferred on him the degree of doctor of civil 
 law, and resolved to present to the library of the Ionian Uni- 
 versity, all such books, printed at the Clarendon press, as are 
 likely to be useful to the general design of the institution. 
 Under such patronage, it can scarcely fail to prosper. 
 
3C)8 
 
 GRECIAY GAME5?. 
 
 be books adaptetl to tlieir improvement, and wlio 
 would not rejoice to hear that a Genlis, a Burney, 
 or an Edgeworth, should appear among the modern 
 Grecian fair ? At present few of them can read or 
 write ; and, except it be a little music and dancing, 
 which tliey learn from one another, they have no 
 accomplishment whatever, unless that name may be 
 given to embroidery, which has neither taste nor 
 neatness. 
 
 The Athenian and other Grecian airs are gene- 
 rally of an inferior character, and incapable, I 
 suspect, of expressing any varied feeling of the 
 mind. It would be unreasonable, indeed, to ex- 
 pect it could be well adapted to refined or lofty 
 sentiment ; but you may judge from the ibw popular 
 strains accompanying this letter. The otlier even- 
 ing the three Graces joined some friends in our 
 apartment, and I had hoped to hear them sing; 
 but they told us they only attuned their voices 
 to the winds. However, we had some Grecian 
 games, and, among the rest, the game of forfeits. 
 When we were in fault, they did not spare us, but 
 struck our hands (with a knotted handkerchief) 
 with provoking spirit, thus shewing they could 
 enter into a little frolic as well as certain graces 
 in Scotland. The most of the Grecian ladL be» 
 lieve in magic, and the men in charms. * Foot 
 
 * TheWaiwode has sometimes exhibitions of the djerid, 
 a spectacle which has its denomination from the name of the 
 
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PERSONAL APPEARANCE. 
 
 369 
 
 races is common here, and the game of penny- 
 stones or coits. The little children play at 
 chucks, * and once I really thougl^t myself in 
 Scotland, when I heard an Albanian boy desire his 
 sister to bring him a piece of skeingie (Scotch for 
 string) to tie his sandals with. The children 
 generally are very healthy, and rather handsome ; 
 the men firm, well built, and seldom corpulent, 
 with keen, but not unpleasing eyes ; and notwith- 
 standing their wretched state, they have lively 
 spirits and an active mind, which, if turned into a 
 good moral channel by education and example, 
 woukl doubtless render them a noble people. I 
 speak of the lower class, of which, notwithstandinir 
 all that has been said against them for their cun- 
 ning and deceit, we have had no reason to com- 
 plain. 
 
 Many of the better Greeks in Athens wear 
 
 shoots of (he palm tree, from which the laiiccs, as they are 
 called, which are thrown in the game, were originally compos- 
 ed ; they are often formed, likewise, of willow or any light 
 wood. Much skill is shewn by the horsemen, who dart at one 
 another while riding at speed, and avoid the dart of their ad. 
 \ersary by stooping their head, at the same time riding away 
 as fast as possible. The Waiwode's residence is in the centre 
 of the city, but when he exhibits the spectacle of the djerid 
 it is usualiy at his country house in the plain of Athens. The 
 governor seldom troubles himself with strangers. 
 
 * A ^ame among the children in Scotland. 
 
 VOL. If. A a 
 
370 
 
 DRESS. — TURKISH OPPRESSION. 
 
 the Frank dress, which, compared witli tlieir own 
 or the Turkish costume, looks extremely mean 
 As there are no tailors here, who can make a coat, 
 some of the foreign visitors appear a little shabby ; 
 and I could not help remarking the whimsical ap- 
 pearance of the master and the man ;— the janizary 
 with his ample scarlet mantle, embroidered clothes, 
 and silver-handled pistols richly embossed, march- 
 ino- in great dignity before a person dressed in 
 plain and closely cut attire. 
 
 At night the Greeks must carry light. One 
 evening lately, in returning home, we met a 
 patrole of Albanian soldiers, who stopped us, and 
 said we should have had our lanterns. We were 
 allowed to pass ; but had we been a party of Greeks, 
 we might have been obliged to pay a fine, or perhaps 
 have suffered chastisement. Travellers seem to be 
 more highly favoured than the natives ; they escape 
 from all vexatious contributions, exactions, and op- 
 pressions. 
 
 A wag of a Greek who had been long in Italy 
 said, that he had little hope of the condition of 
 his brethren being ameliorated, till the Turks would 
 shave their beards [—supposing that the beard be- 
 crets pomposity, consequence, and formality, and all 
 the train of illiberal conduct incompatible with free- 
 dom. True it is, the Turks are not much given to 
 suavity of manners, or those social virtues which 
 brin"- man to man in happy intercourse with each 
 
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 09 
 
USURY. — WEATHER. 
 
 371 
 
 otlier, suggesting the necessity of mutual rights ; 
 but the poor beard is not the cause. The rogue, 
 I suspect, glanced a little at the numerous priests, 
 who are generally well provided with this append- 
 age of solemnity. 
 
 Since I have mentioned the subject of beards, I 
 may inform you, that no Jew can live in Athens, 
 and that for the best of all reasons, because they 
 would have no employment, — the trade of usury 
 being taken up by the Greeks themselves, who 
 will not blush in asking 20 or 30 per cent. If 
 I am well informed, some of the residents also 
 lend their money to great advantage ; but neither 
 money lending nor the trade in oil and honey is 
 considerable. The olive groves are not at all so 
 extensive as they were in former times ; and, per- 
 haps, considering the state of modern Athens, this 
 may be for the advantage of the people, grain 
 being a more regular and certain crop. * 
 
 In general the weather has been very fine j 
 sometimes, however, we have had heavy showers 
 of rain, and once (on the 25th of April) some 
 chilling hail. The wind too has been very high ; 
 
 • The oil of Attica ])reserves its celebrity above that of 
 the Continent of Greece, and is, we were told, well adapted 
 to the English market, which is not generally the case 
 with thi* oil of Greece. 
 
37^ 
 
 REPORT OF THE PLAGUE. 
 
 indeed, I have been greatly annoyed by it while 
 drawing in the Acropolis, — and nothing could 
 be more dismal and melancholy than the creak- 
 ing hinges, the banging and the clanking of old 
 doors, united with the howling, moaning, and 
 sighing of the wind among the ruins of the Par- 
 thenon : — this very day it blew a blast which drove 
 me from my station. While walking round the 
 edifice till the storm abated, I observed, sculptured 
 on the eastern tympanum, the remains of a horse's 
 mouth open, with two teeth in it. In this stormy 
 day it looked extremely ghastly, and I was wicked 
 enough to wish it could have snapped at the spoil- 
 ers of the temple, while they were mounting in 
 succession to destroy the cornice. 
 
 No sooner had I seated myself for study, than 
 my friend the Turk appeared with an altered coun- 
 tenance, exclaiming, while pointing to the north, 
 Morto! morto! morto! (deaths deaths death!) I 
 could not understand him, till our janizary explain- 
 ed, telling me that the Governor of Athens had 
 just been informed, that the plague had broken out 
 in Negropont, at no great distance hence. * This 
 was, indeed, unwelcome news ; — not that I was ap- 
 prehensive of the plague, but that it would cer- 
 tainly shorten our stay in Athens ; because, if it 
 
 ♦ AI)out thirty. live or for(v mile* 
 
 CONFlItiMED< 
 
 373 
 
 were known in any other part of Greece, that we 
 remained for any length of time so near the pes- 
 tilence, we could not well proceed upon our jour- 
 ney, but should be obliged to perform quarantine, 
 perhaps, at every town. The worthy Turk kept 
 moaning, much to my annoyance ; at last he be- 
 took himself to smoking his chibuc, occasionally 
 rubbing his back with a flat piece of ornamented 
 wood, which he constantly wears for that elegant 
 and graceful purpose, at the same time looking very 
 doleful, and continuing muttering in a subdued 
 tone of voice, Morto ! morto ! His belief in prede- 
 stination did not soothe his sorrow. Perhaps he 
 imagined the time of his departure might be near ; 
 or, Turk though he was, thought how painful it 
 might be to leave his family and friends. 
 
 Being desirous to know the particulars of this 
 report, I hastened to the city, and no sooner reach- 
 ed our lodgings than I found the Graces weep- 
 ing, — the Maid of Athens in tears through ter- 
 ror of the plague ! In short, the whole town is 
 in dismay, and the governor is about to issue 
 an order, that no person from Negropont shall 
 enter the gates, which are to be guarded by Alba- 
 nian soldiers. Meantime, having held a council 011 
 this important subject, we think it advisable to 
 prepare to leave this city as soon as possible. As 
 the plague is caught by touch, we must be upon 
 our guard in walking the narrow streets. Indeed) 
 
374f GREEK PHYSICIANS. — OPIUM-EATER. 
 
 it appears astonishing to me, that the population 
 is not wholly carried off* when visited by pestilence. 
 
 The native Greek physicians are no better than 
 the Turkish ones, being wholly ignorant of the 
 treatment of the plague, and prejudiced, like the 
 other orientalists, against the acquisition of any in- 
 sight into anatomy by dissection. A few of them 
 have passed a little time at some of the universities 
 of Italy, but these are nearly as ignorant as their 
 brethren. Occasionally, however, you meet in the 
 Levant an Italian physician: there is one settled 
 at Patras. Most of these have been obliged to leave 
 Italy from political causes, as being obnoxious to 
 the government ; but they are always regretting 
 the necessity of living among the Greeks, who, in- 
 deed, will seldom employ them. 
 
 As we shall depart so soon, we must settle money 
 matters with the Disdar, who expects to be present- 
 ed with a sum equal to that which was given to 
 him on our entering the Acropolis. On my visit 
 to him, I could not resist going up the principal 
 streets for the last time. Picturesque groups were 
 to be seen every where ; and it was evident from 
 their manner and the expression of their counte- 
 nances, that they were speaking of the plague. 
 The street views would make curious subjects for 
 the pencil ; the figures, especially, are incompar- 
 ably fine, and the variety of dress is endless. 
 
 fn the way to the Acropolis, I met for the 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 
 
 375 
 
 first time an opium-eater. The poor cadaverous 
 emaciated wretch was pelted by the boys. This is 
 the first instance we have seen of intoxication of 
 any kind in Greece, where, too, 
 
 ** No young eyed lewdness walks the midnight rounds.'* 
 
 These opium-eaters, I understand, are very rare, 
 and none but the most debased intoxicate them- 
 selves with it ; of course, I speak of the country 
 we have visited. In such a place as Constantinople, 
 no doubt, this vicious custom may be more pre- 
 valent. 
 
 My friend the Turk met me with his fallen 
 countenance ; and when I told him we were about 
 to leave the city, he appeared a little vexed. He 
 left me soon, and returned with the present of a 
 melon, in exchange for some gunpowder which I 
 had given to him. At the Propylea the Disdar 
 w^as committing a black girl to a dungeon in the 
 Temple of Victory without wings ! He said she was 
 an unruly servant, and muttered sometliing about 
 the bastinado. Ten crowns, however, which were 
 given to him as a farewell present, brought a smile 
 into his face, and I believe softened his heart in 
 favour of the girl. 
 
 On returning home, I examined the rocks of the 
 Acropolis, the Areopagus, and Lycabettus, all 
 within a short distance of each other ; they are 
 composed of puddingstone. 
 
S76 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURR. 
 
 APOLOGY FOR SIGNOR LUSIERI. 
 
 377 
 
 Every thing being arranged for our departure, 
 we leave Athens to-morrow. A boat with ten power- 
 ful men is ready at the Pirseus to take us whitherso- 
 ever we please. We have determined, tlien, to go to 
 Cape Colonni, and see the Temple of Minerva 
 Sunias, and the scene of Falconer's Shipwreck ; from 
 thence we shall visit the Isle of ^gina, and after- 
 wards cross the Isthmus of Corinth, and advance 
 along the Corinthian shore to Patras, where we are 
 certain of finding a vessel waiting, through the 
 kindness of Sir Thomas Maitland, to convey us to 
 Zante to perform quarantine. 
 
 M. Logotheti, our consul here, is much against 
 our going to Cape Colonni, having lately heard 
 that the caverns there are infested with pirates from 
 the island of Macronisi, a nest of robbers ; indeed, 
 from all accounts, there are few instances of stran- 
 gers going thither with impunity. * Our crew, 
 however, being so very strong, and as we have al- 
 ready encountered more serious dangers, we have 
 determined to run a little risk. So if you should 
 not hear from me at a reasonable lenfjth of time, 
 you may almost conclude we are in different society 
 from any with which we have vet associated. 
 
 We shall leave Athens with regret ; for, al- 
 though we have had our eyes and ears in constant 
 exercise, still there is much to see and know. 
 The few acquaintances we have made in Athens 
 have the highest claims to our regard ; more par- 
 ticularly Signor Lusieri, whose attentions have 
 been most obliging. Lusieri is a worthy man ; 
 and although engaged in despoiling the Parthe- 
 non of its marbles, a proceeding which, I believe, 
 he was the first to suggest to Lord Elgin, is not 
 altogether without apology. He may have fore- 
 seen the happy change which those precious marbles 
 must produce on modern taste, and, with a view to 
 their reviving the purity of ancient art, may have 
 tlioujiht that no situation could be more eligible 
 than where the wisdom of Minerva is centered — 
 in Britain. 
 
 * Baron Stacklcbcr^ was carrietl off by the banditti, and 
 kept among them till ransomed by his friends. The threaten- 
 ings, hunger, and misery, which he endured, would make a 
 pretty subject for a novel. 
 
LETTER LXXII. 
 
 CORINTH. 
 
 Departure from Athens. — Pincus* — Cape Culonni, — Temple 
 of Minerva Sunias. — Vieivs in sailing up the Gulf of 
 jEgina. — Island of JEgina. — Singular mode of Roioing, 
 — Isthmus of Corinth, S^c. 
 
 VV^HEN our friends in Athens had collected to 
 offer their adieus, the party of the British alone 
 consisted of about a dozen. The three Atlienian 
 Maids graced the meeting in the court, and our 
 hearts, at this moment of separation, did full ho- 
 mage to their charms. Modesty, and delicacy of 
 conduct, will always command affection. 
 
 Before our baggage could be adjusted, and the 
 unruly mules be brought quietly to receive their 
 burdens, the sky was putting on its amber-coloured 
 robes, and ere we reached the port of the Piraeus, 
 the night was throwing her shadow over the fare- 
 well hues of day. Still a rosy cloud hung above 
 the Parthenon ; and the dark and solemn olive 
 grove was rendered doubly interesting by the hoot- 
 
 PIR.llUS. 
 
 ^79 
 
 ing of the owl, and the few remains of the lono- 
 walls of the Piraeus, which w^re but indistinctly 
 seen through the mysterious shades. 
 
 We remained in the Dojanna * for the night, 
 and the morning disclosed to us the site of what 
 was once the pride of Athens. The splendid por- 
 ticoes, the numerous temples, the theatre, the 
 grand armoury, and other magnificent buildings of 
 ancient date, have vanished from the earth, to give 
 place to a few wretched sheds ! — But what is be- 
 come of such extensive works ? The long walls 
 were high, and cased with hewn stone, and so 
 broad, that a carriage might have been driven on 
 them, yet scarcely a trace of them is now percep- 
 tible. 
 
 Instead of the riches of the world pouring into 
 the Piraeus, we could perceive nothing but a heap 
 or two of tiles, and a few empty oil and currant 
 jars. The sailors, for want of shelter, were lying 
 rolled up in their capotes, (or greatcoats,) like as 
 many Russian bears, upon the beach ; one of them 
 was sleeping with his head within a jar. 
 
 Finding nothing at the Piraeus to detain us, we 
 stepped into our boat, and rowed away for Su- 
 nium, t our sailors singing a morning hymn, and 
 the cool morning air bringing from the various hills 
 
 * The custom-house. 
 + Cape Colonni 
 
380 
 
 CAPE COLONNl. 
 
 the most delightful odour. We rushed through the 
 waters with great rapidity, " breaking the blue 
 crystal of the seas." By word of command, the ten 
 men stood upon the cross benches, and with their 
 whole force and weight they fell upon their seats. 
 Each gave the word for action in succession, in a 
 loud or low tone, according as they should proceed 
 fast or slow. Sometimes they would halt a few 
 seconds ; then, as if they had lost their time by 
 doing so, they sprung up suddenly, and pulled to- 
 gether like as many furies ; — rising and falling with 
 a quickness of motion and bodily exertion, quite 
 astonishing. 
 
 On neither side was the scenery at all striking. 
 Hymettus has not a pleasing form, (being rather 
 lumpish,) and, without the aid of association, our 
 eyes would have hardly dwelt upon it. The sea is 
 overpowering, and reduces in importance all the 
 points and promontories. But a few short hours 
 presented to our admiring eyes the columns of Mi- 
 nerva Sunias : * and very soon we entered the 
 scene of Falconer's Shipwreck : 
 
 *• Where o*er tiie sur^e Colonna frowns on hi"h ; 
 Beside the Cape's projecting verge arc placM 
 A range of columns, long by time defac'd, 
 First planted by devotion, to sustain 
 In elder times Tritonia's sacred fane.*' 
 
 Nearly forty-two miles from the Piraus. 
 
 TEMPLE OF MINERVA SUNIAS. 
 
 881 
 
 From the sea, the whole scene did not appear 
 to much advantage, perhaps from being too near 
 the shore. We soon reached the land, but our 
 men took the precaution to row about the promon- 
 tory, to ascertain that all was safe. We entered a 
 cave or two, and saw that fires had been lately 
 kindled in them ; but, as no boat was seen either 
 on the seas, * or on the shore, we concluded there 
 were no robbers near. 
 
 You may be sure we did not tarry long before 
 we proceeded to the temple. All was wild and 
 desolate, impressing the mind with melancholy 
 thoughts. The place where Plato and his scholars 
 once assembled is now a trackless waste. Only 
 fourteen columns of the temple now remain, of 
 the whitest Parian marble, some of them great- 
 ly corroded by time, and dislocated by light- 
 ning. As seen by us they were relieved against 
 the sky ; but when the white clouds appeared be- 
 hind them, the temple was just perceptible, and 
 looked like a faint vision of a thing that had 
 been ! All was still as death, save the murmuring 
 of the waves below, polishing the fallen marbles 
 into pebbles on the shore, and degrading them 
 into dust, to be blown before the winds of heaven ! 
 
 * Towards Macronisi, (where Helen landed after Troy was 
 taken,) which is about five miles distant. 
 
382 
 
 TEMPLE OF MINERVA SUNIAS. 
 
 Pure as this temple is, like a mild and decaying 
 beauty, yet it has not escaped from the rude hands 
 of British sailors, being besmeared with black 
 paint or pitch, and names written in letters at least 
 two feet in height all round the architrave. Cen- 
 turies (if the temple shall stand so long) will be re- 
 quired to eradicate the mischief. I shall forbear 
 mentioning the name of the ship which occupies the 
 whole of the front next the sea, nor shall I give 
 the names of those who have been so barbarous ; 
 but I advise our Scotish youths * to reflect a little, 
 before they again proceed to such wantonness. 
 They, of all others, should be grateful for the 
 stream of light which has flowed from Greece, and 
 accordingly should respect her few remains. 
 
 The architecture of this temple is of the Doric 
 order ; but it does not appear to me, that the pro- 
 portions of the columns are so perfect as those of 
 the Temple of Theseus, to which this temple is 
 generally compared in form and size ; the shafts of 
 the pillars are taller. The capitals, however, are 
 exquisite, and I do sincerely wish, that such were 
 adopted in some of our public buildings in good 
 old Edinburgh. In colouring the Athenian tem- 
 ples are preferable to that of Minerva Sunias. 
 White looks cold and chalky, yet, when the sun 
 was full upon the columns, and the glossy leaves of 
 
 Mulshij)inen and Lieutenant?*. 
 
 SAIL TOWARDS iEGINA. 
 
 383 
 
 the mastic bushes, the various orange-coloured 
 plants, and brilliant greens blended with the rich 
 and powerful browns, there were hints for colour- 
 ing, where white assumed the ascendancy, that 
 would have pleased the most fastidious eye. 
 
 The best view of this edifice is below the tem- 
 ple, on the bank sloping from the sea, and this 
 embraces several projecting points, islands, and 
 distant mountains. * The views from the oppo- 
 site bank, too, are very fine, especially that which 
 includes the sweeping bay. Remains of black 
 and red pottery are strewed about among ex-* 
 tensive foundations of hewn stone. After dining 
 in a robber's cave, we rowed off to a small island, 
 four miles towards Athens. There we intended 
 to remain all night, but the wind got up, and 
 not having a well protected harbour, we moved to 
 the Island of Patroclus, (quite at hand,) where we 
 laid our beds in the open boat, and slept as sound- 
 ly as if we had been in a palace. 
 
 Early next morning we steered for ^gina, where 
 we arrived about ten o'clock to breakfast. On sail- 
 intT up the Gulf of JEgina, we found the scenery 
 infinitely more attractive than when we kept near 
 
 ** Those blessed isles 
 
 Which, seen from fair Colonna's height, 
 Make glad the heart, that hails the sight, 
 And lend to loneliness delight." 
 
384 
 
 iEGINA. 
 
 the shore for Sunium. The mountahis of the 
 Morea often drew from us expressions of admira- 
 tion. Athens appeared again, tlie Queen of G reece ; 
 and, of course, we were too well bred to pass with- 
 out uncovering. Both my friend and 1 agreed 
 that this distant view of Athens from the sea is 
 extremely like that of Edinburgh from the Firth 
 of Forth, though certainly the latter is consider- 
 ably superior. 
 
 The shore of iEgina, when near, is very pic- 
 turesque ; strange caverns are seen in the pud- 
 dingstone, and abrupt points shoot through the 
 water in wild iantastic shapes. In many places 
 the strata of lime above the puddingstone, lying 
 in a horizontal position, are composed of perpendi- 
 cukr lines, eight, ten, or twelve inches separate, 
 like a ladder placed upon its side. After break- 
 fast we hastened to the Temple of Jupiter Pan- 
 hellenius, and, in advancing to it, we found the 
 country almost in a state of nature. Some patches 
 no doubt were cultivated, but in so miserably 
 thin and scattered a manner, that it only made the 
 country appear more desolate, by exciting the idea 
 of starvation. As usual, the ground is strewed 
 with ancient pottery, contesting with a small sick- 
 ly, yet lovely pea, the honour of being seen. 
 Our track was through the thickest brushwood, 
 composed of mastic, arbutus, and thyme, with 
 many aromatic plants. On ascending the hill on 
 
 TEMPLE OF JUPITEU PANHELLENIUS. 385 
 
 which the temple stands, our way was disputed by 
 huge loose stones, dwarf pine and cedar trees ; 
 however, with much fatigue, we contrived to reach 
 the temple, though our steps were often retrograde. 
 We seated ourselves on a fallen capital, to recover 
 a little from our fatigue, before we ventured to 
 examine the Doric ruins, and we could not but 
 admire the glorious scene before us ; Attica, Pelo- 
 ponnesus, and the Gulf of ^gina, with their many 
 points of attraction, addressing both the eye and 
 mind ! While we were enjoying the splendid view, 
 two shepherds stepped from the ruins, and passing 
 their crooks from their right hand to their leftt 
 pressed their hearts and foreheads, and kissed our 
 hands, in a manner than which nothing could be 
 more graceful ! Their eyes bespoke their curiosity 
 to know what brought us there, and when we look- 
 ed across the gulf, they both exclaimed, Athene, 
 Athena?! as if we were desirous to know the 
 name of the distant spot that marked the site of 
 Athens. 
 
 After examining this celebrated temple, which 
 is a great favourite with every traveller, it appear- 
 ed to me, that, although the proportions are ex- 
 tremely just, yet, as a Temple of Jupiter of all 
 Greece, (which its name implies,) it must have been 
 by much too small, the style approaching more to 
 beauty than to grandeur. But, perhaps, the 
 architect conceived that the commanding and ele- 
 
 VOL. 11. JB b 
 
386 TEMPLE OF JUPITER PANIIELLENIUS. 
 
 MAUliLES OF THE TYMPANUM. 
 
 387 
 
 vated situation was sufficient, without the aid of 
 magnitude, to convey the idea of sublimity and 
 power ; and, certainly, from below it has an impos- 
 ing and grand effect ; so much so, that we were 
 surprised to find the fabric so diminutive, when 
 we were close upon it. The utmost height of the 
 temple, including that part of tlie architrave which 
 now remains, does not appear above ^0 feet ! Twen- 
 ty-five columns are still standing, with three or four 
 broken shafts, rising amidst the ruins of the enta- 
 blature. It is built of the stone of the mountain, 
 which is of a grey clay colour. Time has eaten 
 the cohmnis in various whimsical corrugations ; 
 nevertheless, there is all the appearance of their 
 still being able to brave some hundred years. 
 
 The date of this temple is earlier than that of 
 either the Temple of Theseus or the Parthenon ; * 
 and the marbles of tlie tympanum, which were dis- 
 covered by Messrs Cockerell, Lynck, and Stackle- 
 beriT, would have formed a curious chain of art, 
 with those of Phygalia and the Temple of Mi- 
 nerva. Unfortunately, the British Government 
 has allowed them to pass unto other hands, in 
 which, comparatively, they can be of little value, t 
 I say unfortunately, because, though much infe- 
 rior in merit, they would have conveyed consi- 
 
 derable infonnation and instruction, and afforded, 
 too, a stinmlus to our sculptors, while they exhibit- 
 ed the early and regular stages of sculpture up to 
 the time of Phidias. 
 
 These marbles are now in Rome, under the hands 
 of Thorwaldson, to be repaired. Minerva is re- 
 presented as the Goddess of War, with her war- 
 riors in various attitudes, to suit the fonn of the 
 tympanum. The spearsmen near the goddess are 
 nearly erect, and the archers immediately behind 
 them are made to kneel ; the others recline to- 
 wards the angle. * This is the arrangement I saw 
 in Rome, and it seemed to me to be very just. 
 The figures on the right and left of Minerva are in 
 a similar attitude, only reversed. 
 
 The sculpture being of so great antiquity, purity 
 of taste could hardly be expected; and, indeed, 
 in this respect they are a little faulty. An awk- 
 ward stiffness is prevalent, with the same mannered 
 face, and the same stupid smirk in all the counte- 
 nances. The goddess herself is without dignity, 
 having a large mouth and thick lips, with an un- 
 
 i 
 
 • Supposed to be built 520 13. C. 
 
 f They now belong to the Prince Royal of Buvari. 
 
 • In a note to an article hy Mr Cockerell, published in 
 the twelfth number of the Quarterly Journal of the Arts and 
 Sciences, Colonel Leake gives it as his opinion, that these 
 figures arc intended to represent the Greeks and Trojans con- 
 tending for the body of Patroclus ; Minerva having descend- 
 ed at the conunand of Jupiter to inspire new courage into 
 the Creeks. 
 
388 
 
 MARBLES OF THE TYMPANUM. 
 
 GREEK SAILORS AT SUPPER. 
 
 meaning expression, conveying nothing of her cha- 
 racter. Her right leg is turned inwards in the 
 most ungraceful manner, and her drapery is bad ; 
 yet there is an attempt at some advancement in 
 the art, which is extremely interesting. The 
 limbs and bodies of the warriors (without drapery) 
 are well executed, and true to nature. Nature, 
 indeed, seems to have been the model of the sculp- 
 tor, and those parts which he found stationary, are 
 not inferior to the Phygalian marbles ; indeed, I 
 would almost say, to some of those of the Temple 
 of Minerva. The countenances, however, have 
 puzzled the ancient sculptor ; and, in these, there 
 certainly is a failure. The figures are finished with 
 the same care behind as they are in front ; and, it 
 was curious to observe, that the hands within the 
 shiehls, where they could not possibly be seen, are 
 executed with the utmost delicacy and precision. 
 Thorwaldson's restorations are truly admirable, 
 completely in the spirit and conception of the ori- 
 ginals. The marble is rough from age, having 
 much the appearance of a warm grey stone. This 
 Thorwaldson has likewise imitated ; so happily, in- 
 deed, that it is almost impossible to perceive his 
 hand upon them. The Temple of Jupiter Panhel- 
 lenius, from various points, forms a striking object, 
 but the best combination is from the eastern bank, 
 where it gives a classical air to the varied woody 
 grounds of -35gina. 
 
 389 
 
 On returning to our boat late in the evening, we 
 found a stewed fowl and macaroni done to admira- 
 tion ! You can conceive nothing more picturesque 
 than the appearance of our Greeks and janizary 
 by the blazing fire and the light of the moon. 
 Our trusty Greeks squatted on the ground at sup- 
 per, with an expression in the face of each, indicat- 
 ing that he swallowed in his mind the whole of 
 the repast ; mixed, too, with a slight suspicion that 
 lie sliould be a little wronged by his neighbour's 
 taking more than his allotted share. " Of what ?" 
 you will say. Hard bread soaked in water, and a 
 few olives dipped in oil. Yet with such scanty fare 
 were they robust and happy.— But this is not the 
 picture. Our hungry Greeks had huge mus- 
 taches and varied costume, and our janizary, 
 the hero of the subject, with large bishop-look- 
 ing sleeves, and turban, partly untwisted, hang- 
 ing gracefully on his shoulders, his embossed 
 pistols, too, shining in his belt, kept feeding 
 the tremendous fire with mastic and with thyme, 
 till the flame searched into every nook and cor- 
 ner, while the pale moon contrasted herself with 
 the ruddy smoke, and the silver wave glided past 
 the dark rocks which were opposed to the splen- 
 dour of the blaze and falling sparks. 
 
 Here we rested for the night, and found our 
 bear-skins a good protection against the heavy dew. 
 In the morning we were awakened by the singing 
 
390 
 
 CENCIIREiE. 
 
 of the Greeks, who were adjusting their oars for 
 our departure ; and soon we skimmed away for the 
 Isthmus of Corinth before the sun had glanced 
 upon the sea. As we advanced, and neared the 
 rugged rocks and hills, there was nothing in the 
 scenery remarkable or picturesque. The snow- 
 capped Megaspelia and the Acrocorinthus * im- 
 mediately before us, were all that sought our ad- 
 miration. 
 
 The activity of our crew soon brought us to 
 the port of Cenchrea), but it was some time be- 
 fore we were allowed to land. The stupid mas- 
 ter of our boat had forgot to procure a passport 
 from the governor of Athens. " Athens is a sus- 
 pected place, the plague may be there, and you 
 should have had your passport." Here was an 
 unexpected and unpleasant obstacle ; but it vanish- 
 ed before the golden talisman, whose powerful 
 magic likewise conjured up horses for our service, 
 thougli they had been at first denied. 
 
 The port of Cenchrea^ is about nine miles from 
 Corinth ; and in condition and appearance, much 
 the same as the Piraeus. Three or four small craft, 
 and one or two miserable sheds, are all of trade and 
 shipping that it now exhibits. Some marble columns 
 were strewed about, and some foundations barely 
 seen among the rubbish. Advancing on the Isthmus 
 
 » Ou M liich stood the citadel ol ancient Corinth. 
 
 ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 391 
 
 we found it rough and hilly for a time, but at last 
 we came into a cultivated plain. A few remains 
 of ancient buildings were scattered here and there, 
 but nothing of any pleasing form or magnitude, 
 and all, to us, without a name. The citadel of 
 Corinth, seated on an elevated rock, is no feature 
 in itself, but the rock on which it stands is ex- 
 tremely picturescpie, and always forms a principal 
 object in the scenery of the Isthmus. ^'- After a 
 journey of three long hours we reached this ancient 
 city. 
 
 ♦ The hthimis is formed of piiddiiigstonc, chaliv, lime, 
 and sand. 
 
LETTER LXXIIL 
 
 CORINTH. 
 
 The Temple^ and Views of the Toivn. 
 
 *' Corinth ! 
 
 Whose gorgeous fabrics seemM to strike the skies, 
 Whom, though by tyrant-victors oft subdued, 
 Greece, Egypt, Rome, with awful wonder viewed. 
 Her name, for Pallas' heavenly art renown'd, 
 Spread like the foliage which her pillars crown'd, 
 But now in fatal desolation laid, 
 Oblivion o'er it draws a dismal shade." 
 
 These lines of the poet express what Corinth was 
 and is. Of all the noble buildings which graced 
 this once famous city, nothing now remains save a 
 few Doric columns of an ancient temple, and some 
 paltry foundations of a theatre and stadium. The 
 besom of destruction has swept clean ! 
 
 ** Out upon Time ! he will leave no more 
 Of the things to come than the things before ! 
 Out upon Time ! who for ever w ill leave 
 But enough of the past for the future to grieve." 
 
 The present town does not seem to contain 
 more than five or six hundred houses, and these 
 
 VIEW OF CORINTH. TEMPLE. 
 
 393 
 
 are scattered, irregular, and with little feature. 
 The whole appears to the greatest advantage about 
 a quarter of a mile in front towards the sea. The 
 buildings inhabited by the governor stand on a 
 rising ground, and are remarkably picturesque, unit- 
 ed with the mosques and cypress trees. Above all 
 rises the hill called the Acrocorinthus in stupen- 
 dous majesty. A fortification-wall traverses its 
 top, and the left summit is crowned with a square 
 building, which, however, is insignificant in size. 
 To the right of the town a singularly pointed 
 hill shoots up to a considerable height, with a tow- 
 er entirely covering its top. The whole scene has 
 an air of peculiar grandeur, and ranks among the 
 tirst subjects for the pencil that I have seen in 
 Greece. Above the town there are likewise some 
 channing views, embracing the extensive plain and 
 olive grounds, the sea and distant mountains. ]n 
 these views the remains of an ancient temple ap- 
 pear to great advantage, giving a classical expres- 
 sion, and, at the same time, affordinij a leadino- 
 feature for the eye to rest upon. 
 
 The origin and destination of this temple 
 seem to be entirely unknown. One author calls 
 it the Temple of Juno, another the Temple of 
 Venus ; some suppose it to be the Temple of 
 Neptune; and Chandler seems to think it is a 
 vestige of the Sisypheum mentioned by Stra- 
 bo. As for the Greeks and Turks, they know 
 
Sin 
 
 TEMPLE. TRACE OF A WHEEL. 
 
 INDOLENCE. MURDERER. 
 
 395 
 
 nothing about it at all ; and 1 must confess my- 
 self in the same predicament. But, be it what 
 it may, it has a reverend and aged appearance, 
 curiously incrusted, and wrought and wrinkled by 
 the corroding hand of time. In colouring it is 
 perfect ; of a subdued brown, containing weather- 
 stains and lichens of every hue, from the pale grey 
 to cool greens, red and yellow, moss and orange 
 tints, mingling with the richest browns. When 
 very near the columns these colours appeared a 
 little overpowering ; but at the distance of a few 
 yards they harmonize to admiration, and have a 
 quiet soothing rich effect, most grateful to the 
 eye. The whole remains consist of seven columns, 
 in proportion like the Temple of Neptune at 
 PtEstum, and certainly not inferior in grandeur. 
 Several storks have made their nests upon the 
 architrave, and kept up a rattling noise with their 
 
 wnigs. 
 
 On the road, a little from the temple, I per- 
 ceived, for the first time since I have been in 
 (ireece, the mark of a wheel upon the ground ; 
 and truly, I believe it excited as much surprise in 
 me, as the impression of a human foot upon the 
 sand did in Robinson Crusoe in his solitary island. 
 
 Before I could command a few minutes to 
 walk through the market-place, it was near the 
 close of day. The Turks and (i reeks had retired 
 from their shops and lounging places, and a more 
 
 desolate miserable spectacle I cannot well con- 
 ceive. The superficial, flimsy, nasty appearance 
 of every thing, was quite disgusting. Content is a 
 virtue, when not united with indolence ; but here, 
 and, indeed, in every part of Greece, there is a 
 strange and unaccountable mixture of both ; and I 
 have often wished I could stir up a little dissatisfac- 
 tion among them ; their present seeming comfort 
 being so ungracious to the traveller. 
 
 A murder was committed here to-day, in a 
 quarrel between two Greeks. The murderer, af- 
 ter a little search, was discovered in the olive 
 grove, and the first proceeding was to inflict the 
 bastinado. In a few days he is to suffer death. 
 
 The governor -•' has heard of the plague in Negro- 
 pont, and is very scrupulous what strangers he ad- 
 mits in Corinth. My friend had to wait on him, 
 and tell him whence we came, very properly, dur- 
 ing this interview, holding a present in his hand, 
 which occasionally caught the eye of the disifi- 
 terested bey ; the questions were accordingly put 
 in a softened manner, and all went off agreeably. 
 To-morrow we shall sail along the Corinthian shore, 
 and down the Gulf of Lepanto to Patras. 
 
 * Subject to the Baslia of Tripoli. 
 
 
LETTER LXXIV. 
 
 PATRAS. 
 
 Journey from Corinth to Patras. 
 
 At Corinth we hired a small vessel, the only one 
 that we could procure, to convey us to Vostizza ; 
 but no sooner had we put ourselves on board, than 
 the wind sprang up, and our captain, afraid to put 
 to sea, would only sail close upon the shore. In 
 this manner we zigzaged slowly on, with the 
 wind against us. But finding the weather getting 
 worse, we were obliged to land near ancient 
 Sicyon, where we remained near 0.0 hours before 
 the wind abated. A noble fig-tree spread its 
 branches upon a bank of flowers, and tempted us 
 to fix our station under it. Our janizary and ser- 
 vant then proceeded to their duty, and a fire was 
 soon kindled among some ruins, the cooking uten- 
 sils were put in use, and while dinner was prepar- 
 ing, we sauntered among the woods and lofty 
 banks. 
 
 Long horizontal lines of rocks, in some parts 
 eight, ten, or twelve feet high, crowned the 
 
 SHORE NEAR ANCIENT SICYON. 
 
 397 
 
 summits of the hills, * like the face of a wall built 
 with huge Cyclopean stones. Many of the rocks 
 had fallen down the declivities in square blocks ; 
 and before we examined them, we could hardly 
 persuade ourselves that they were not the work of 
 human hands. In thickness, I should think they 
 might be about a third their breadth, and general- 
 ly of oblong forms. We found these blocks com- 
 posed of puddingstone, containing a great variety 
 of curious pebbles of various colours. The long lines 
 resting on a soft and yellowish lime ; proceeding far- 
 ther among the banks, many of which were 400, 
 500, and 600 feet in height, we perceived singular 
 strata among the deep ravines. Horizontal lines of 
 a reddish earth, of about 12 feet broad, took their 
 course through diagonal strata of yellow lime, inclin- 
 ing towards the sea ; and both sides of these precipi- 
 tous banks, at least 500 or 600 feet asunder, corre- 
 sponded to each other in the appearance of the strata. 
 A small stream ran below, but could hardly be per- 
 ceived among the hanging woods. Some of the 
 banks are insulated, fonning detached hills, others 
 were crowned with trees, while some striated or 
 channelled, were joined by narrow necks of land, 
 as the water had been obstructed, or had worn 
 away the softer soil. These banks have a resem- 
 
 * From 200 to 300 feet in length, these peculiar rocks are 
 eoinmon along the coast 20 or 25 miles from Corinth, 
 
398 
 
 SHORE NEAR ANCIENT SICYON. 
 
 KHAN OF ACRATA. 
 
 39!) 
 
 blance to the subordinate or secondary hills near 
 Patras, and their component parts are much the 
 same. The absohite loneliness of the country 
 was very striking, not a house nor a human be- 
 ing was to be seen in any direction. The sea of 
 Corinth was without a sail ! Mount Helicon 
 and Parnassus towering in siglit, reminded us of 
 better times ; while the rugged, but sweet-scented 
 wilds, at once encouraged and softened the ready 
 sigh. 
 
 Descending these singular hills, I walked the 
 plain below, and at the distance of some miles, the 
 hills assumed a different and still more surprising 
 character. Parallel divisions rose above each other 
 like steps, four of these flats and slopes upon a bank 
 200 or 300 feet in height, with all the appearance 
 of having been formed by art. In breadth each 
 flat mio-ht measure from 500 to GOO feet, and was 
 level as a bowling-green ; each flat had its natural 
 edge of puddingstone, in blocks of the same kind 
 as those further up the coast. I have not seen the 
 parallel roads of Glenroy in Inverness-shire, but 
 from the description given of their appearance, 
 these flats and slopes seem to have a remarkable 
 resemblance to them. 
 
 The wind at last abating, we again set sail, but 
 were not long at sea, before the weather forced us 
 to reland ; and as appearances were rather threat- 
 ening, we determined to give up the vessel alto- 
 
 gether. Luckily our landing-place was near a 
 farm-house, the only building which we met with, 
 except a village composed of a few wTetched huts. 
 After delaying several hours, horses, mules, and 
 asses, were at last procured, but the higgling 
 of the Greeks was hardly to be endured, nor 
 could we get them to be reasonable in their de- 
 mands. Near the farm was a small chapel, where 
 we obseiTcd a curious substitute for a bell, in the 
 shape of a piece of carved iron, near to which was 
 hung a rude hammer ; both were suspended from 
 the branch of a tree stretching over some graves ; 
 at the head of every grave was a small circle of 
 tiles containing a wax candle. 
 
 Our animals were restive and troublesome, but 
 they were soon brought to obey by the active 
 Greeks, who kept beating them on with boughs of 
 myrtle. In a short time we reached the khan of 
 Acrata, situated upon a high rock near a bridge * 
 thrown over a rapid stream. The scenery was 
 high and mountainous, and the ambitious pines 
 clambered to the clouds. Nothing could be more 
 wretched than our khan ; we ascended by a com- 
 mon ladder to the landing-place, composed of a few 
 boards three inches asunder, and these were only 
 near the door, so that it required a little manage- 
 ment to step on them, and keep from falling over ; 
 
 * The only bridge we have met with in Greece. 
 
 it 
 
400 SCENERY FROiM ACRATA TO VOSTIZZA. 
 
 at night it was extremely dangerous. The pro- 
 prietor of this khan sold wine ; rope, and some other 
 articles for sale, were hanging on the rough cast 
 walls : coarse brown bread and hog's lard was all 
 the provision we could procure. 
 
 From Acrata to Vostizza, we were enchanted 
 with the romantic scenes, such as our Nasmyth * 
 would have studied with delight. Every line was 
 brought into play ; mountains rose over mountains 
 in abrupt and singular forms ; some were crowned 
 with wood, which seemed to struggle for existence 
 in the scanty soil. At every step we advanced, 
 the shifting of the scenes was gratifying and un- 
 expected, leaving the imagination nothing to de- 
 sire. In character the rocks of puddingstone were 
 broad and simple, with few divisions ; enormous 
 masses and fronts of mountains led the eye from 
 their base to their summits, without a resting- 
 place. Thickets of myrtle, at least twelve feet high, 
 with beauteous flowers, perfumed our way. t On 
 entering the olive groves, a more refined and taste- 
 ful landscape was disclosed, the combinations of 
 wood and rocks, and snowy pinnacles mingling 
 with the skies, were quite sublime, and I may just- 
 ly say, that in those regions may be found what 
 
 • Mr Alexander Nasmyth, the father of landscape-paint- 
 ing in Edinburgh, — an artist of the highest talent. 
 
 + The profusion of beautiful blossoming plants, produced 
 here by nature, may be a reason why the Greeks do not cul- 
 tivate flowers. 
 
 FORMATION AND DECOMPOSITION OF ROCKS. 401 
 
 " savage Rosa dashed, or learned Poussin drew." 
 The rivers, though small, were turbulent and dis- 
 coloured, from the melting of the snow in the 
 higher regions. None of them were impassable : 
 at times, however, they must be furious, if we 
 may judge from the extensive wastes which tKey 
 have made. 
 
 The great extent of the precipitous mountains, 
 composed of stones evidently worn by the waters, 
 in many places exhibiting a perpendicular surface 
 of rock, at least 1000 feet in height, and these 
 retiring to a great distance in the country, cannot 
 fail to excite the astonishment of the beholder. 
 AMiether he look backwards or forwards, he will be 
 equally impressed with awe and wonder, when he 
 reflects on the slow operations of nature, on the 
 time which must have been required for the fonna- 
 tion of mountains of such a material, or the time 
 which it may take to level them with the dust. 
 One would think that the beautiful pebbles in 
 the midst of the enormous masses might be 
 secure for ever. But no ! ages, and the sea, 
 and the wind, will annihilate them ! They have 
 already been ground by the waters, and they must 
 be ground again, and their dust floated in the 
 air ! We had only to look at the huge frag- 
 ments fallen from the mountains on the shore, to 
 be convinced of this ; they were decomposing by 
 
 VOL. 11. c c 
 
402 
 
 JOURNEY BY MOONLIGHT. 
 
 DESOLATION OF GRKECE. 
 
 403 
 
 the action of the waves, and the detached pebbles, 
 by attrition, were grinding them to sand ! 
 
 From one of the fragments of rock, we perceived, 
 for the first time, some beautiful honeysuckle. On 
 requesting the Greek to pull us a flower of it, he 
 immediately ran and tore down the whole bush, and 
 presented each of us with a branch, saying, at the 
 same time, that, if we were fond of flowers, he 
 would get us some infinitely more beautiful ; and 
 away he sprang to the grounds below and gather- 
 ed some bunches of the wild red poppy, which is 
 so common among the corn in Britain. We could 
 not refuse to take them, but little did he know 
 how much we preferred the honeysuckle, from 
 the pleasing associations it excited in our minds in 
 such a place ; and how much we were suiT)rised 
 at his total want of taste in selecting these, when 
 there were so many superior flowers among the 
 
 myrtle downs. 
 
 When we arrived at Vostizza, we had great 
 difficulty in procuring horses. Every entreaty 
 was made in vain. At last, our friend the 
 
 Count displayed the firman of the Sultan, 
 
 which had the desired effect ; but it was late ere 
 we advanced, and night completely overtook us 
 before we reached Patras. But such a night ! The 
 moon was in full splendour ; and while we travelled 
 among the mysterious scenes, we were often tempt- 
 ed to pause and ask what c ould be those shadowy 
 
 forms, that were perpetually arresting our atten- 
 tion ? Nothing could be more pleasing or more 
 romantic than the winding of our cavalry among 
 the projecting rocks and dismal hollows, when 
 first a gleam of light prevailed, and then a so- 
 lemn darkness veiled and softened all in sweet 
 composure ! The glow-worms peeping from the 
 bushes, seemed like fairies' eyes ! fire-flies glanced 
 in thousands, like the sun's bright rays stealing on 
 rippling waters in ebon shade ! and how divine the 
 evening star appeared, tipping the dark chain of 
 Mount Olonos ! The blackbird, too, with its train 
 of dear associations, awakened our peculiar interest. 
 All seemed, by their looks of delight, to say. Sing 
 on, sweet bird ! tell us of our absent friends and be- 
 loved country. 
 
 Even her ruins speak less emphatically of the 
 melancholy fate of Greece, than her extensive soli- 
 tudes. Oppression has degraded her children, and 
 broken their spirit. Hence those prodigious plains 
 which God hath given for their good are ne- 
 glected ; hence, too, the beauteous seas almost 
 without a sail, — the lands of ancient Sicyon so 
 thinly peopled ! 
 
 " *Tis Greece, but living Greece no more ! 
 So coldly sweet, so deadly fair, 
 We start — for soul is wanting there! 
 Hcr'b is the loveliness in death. 
 That parts not quite witli parting breath ; 
 
 Al ,-, 
 
404* DESOLATION OF GREECE. 
 
 But beauty with that fearful bloom, 
 That hue which haunts it to the tomb- 
 Expression's last receding ray, 
 A gilded halo hovering round decay, 
 The farewell beam of feeling past away! 
 Spark of that flame, perchance of heavenly birth — 
 Which gleams, but warms no more its cherish'd earth !" 
 
 LETTER LXXV- 
 
 PATRAS. 
 
 Necessary preparations for Travelling in Turkey, — Baggage- 
 — Servant. — Hiring Vessels — Money — Presents, — Medi- 
 cal Directions, 
 
 I CAN now bear full testimony to the justness of 
 your observation, that this country is, in its monu- 
 ments, as well as in its history, peculiarly interest- 
 ing to Britons. It is already attracting crowds of 
 our countrymen ; and since the general, but un- 
 founded fear of the Turks is now at an end, it may 
 be expected that few who travel, either for pleasure 
 or improvement, will finish their tour, without 
 spending a considerable portion of their time in 
 Greece. In reply to your inquiries, relative to the 
 arrangements necessary to enable one to sojourn 
 with comfort in this land of the'Muses, I am happy 
 in being able, from my own experience, as well as 
 from the infoimation I have obtained from others, 
 to furnish you with some hints, which we should 
 have been most thankful to receive at our outset, 
 and which will be found worthy the attention of 
 any of your friends, who may propose to follow a 
 similar route. 
 
 jfatifcJfe^wiiaaJfeMwtlSj' ag..">i-. :>!,•-»■, 
 
40C 
 
 BAGGAGE. — SERVANT. 
 
 HIRING VESSELS. — MONEY. 
 
 407 
 
 Nothing can be more inconvenient in travelling 
 than a superfluity of luggage ; but the following 
 articles will be found indispensable : A small camp- 
 bed, with a bear-skin, sheet, and blanket ; a small 
 canteen ; a tea-kettle, tin tea-pot and canisters ; a 
 silver cup ; a pocket knife and fork. The French 
 or English dress is most respected. Two or three 
 pairs of shoes will be absolutely necessary. Few 
 clothes will be sufficient, but they ought to be 
 strong and good. It is unnecessary to take a great 
 quantity of shirts, neckcloths, and stockings, as 
 these may be had any where. A cap lined with 
 an additional piece of leather will be found 
 extremely useful, to protect the head from the 
 heat of the sun. English saddles may be dispens- 
 ed with, as the mules and horses are apt to be 
 restive under them ; our bedding, as a substitute, 
 we found convenient and comfortable. As vessels 
 not unfrequently sail from London for Corfu, it 
 may be advisable to forward the luggage to that 
 island, consigned to a merchant of respectability. 
 
 Without a servant who can speak the Italian and 
 Romaic languages, the traveller will be exposed to 
 much inconvenience and trouble. Such servants 
 may be procured in Rome, in the islands of Corfu 
 or Zante, and are occasionally to be met with in 
 London ; their usual charge is a dollar a-day. 
 The English consul generally recommends a jani- 
 zary. 
 
 In bargaining with the master of the vessel 
 which is to convey you from Corfu to Zante, your 
 stipulation should be for a certain sum in case of 
 reaching the place of your destination at a given 
 time ; if he is to be paid by the day, it will be 
 his interest to delay, and he will, on the most 
 trivial pretext, linger in creeks and bays, as if the 
 slightest change of weather were to be followed by 
 the danger of shipwreck. We have often been 
 mortified to find that the most pitiful craft had 
 braved the open sea, while we were moored by the 
 shore, and of course arrived long before us. These 
 delays, when one's time is limited and of great im- 
 portance, are to the last degree vexatious ; and it 
 is but poor consolation, that the exorbitant charge 
 of your skipper maybe reduced, if you apply to the 
 Enf^lish consul for redress. 
 
 In Patras travellers find no difficulty in procur- 
 ing money for their drafts, which are discounted 
 in the most liberal manner at the British consulate. 
 These drafts are negociated through the medium 
 of Constantinople ; if, therefore, no recent infor- 
 mation has been obtained, concerning the rate of 
 exchange between that city and London, they can 
 allow you only such a sum for your bills, as they 
 have reason to believe is their fair value. In case 
 of your intending to proceed to Constantinople, 
 they advance a certain sum on your draft, leaving 
 the balance to which you may be entitled to be ar- 
 
 .■vs 
 
408 
 
 MONEY. 
 
 ranged between you and your banker in the Turkish 
 Metropolis. At Athens there is no such facility 
 in procuring money ; there being no person of 
 capital resident in that city, on whom an order 
 could be conveniently given. * Should the traveller 
 intend to proceed northward through lloumelia, 
 he will meet another English consulate at Salonica. 
 The gold coins current in Greece are the Spanish 
 doubloon, the value of which, according to the 
 market price of gold in 18 IG, was L. 3, 8s. Ster- 
 ling ; the half doubloon, the sequin both of Venice 
 and Alexandria ; and the rookie, a small Turkish 
 coin, which we found equivalent to about twenty- 
 pence. Of silver coins the Sjianish dollar alone 
 was current ; excepting, indeed, the diminutive and 
 much adulterated coins of Turkey, called paras 
 and aspers. The para, as 1 have already noticed, 
 was equal in value to about half a farthing, and yet 
 was worth three aspers. It may be supposed, of 
 course, that the quantity of alloy was very consider- 
 able. 
 
 In Greece, sums of money are generally com- 
 puted by piasters, which, like our pound Sterling, 
 have only a nominal existence. The value of the 
 piaster varies to travellers with the course of ex- 
 
 * Since thatjtinu', however, I understand that Messrs Far- 
 qiihar and Harris's bills arc discounted at Athens hy Mr 
 
 Grossius. 
 
 PRESENTS. 
 
 409 
 
 change between Turkey and their respective coun- 
 tries ; and hence the very different accounts of its 
 value, and of the prices of things estimated by it, 
 which have been given by different tourists. Ac- 
 cording to Mr Hobhouse, the exchange may be 
 considered at par, when seventeen piasters and a 
 half are reckoned equal to a pound Sterling, which 
 makes the piaster equivalent to 1 s. 1 i yd. Dr Clarke 
 states its value at 20d. At present, the exchange 
 with Constantinople being atnearly thirty piasters for 
 the English pound Sterling, the value of the piaster 
 is consequently little more than 8d. Among the 
 maritime Greeks, the Italian name piastro is some- 
 times given to the dollar ; which, however, is gene- 
 rally denominated thalaro. 
 
 To Turks as well as Greeks, except in the high- 
 est ranks, money is more acceptable than any other 
 present that can be given them. No charge is 
 ever made by those who accommodate you with 
 lodgings ; but it is understood that you shall remu- 
 nerate them with an adequate sum, under the name 
 of a present. The amount of this sum may in ge- 
 neral be regulated according to what you would 
 pay for similar accommodation at an inn on the 
 Continent. These matters are generally settled by 
 your servant. Except at houses of distinction, it is 
 necessary to carry your provisions along with you, 
 as in general nothing can be procured but mere 
 lodging, and that by no means comfortable. When 
 
410 
 
 MEDICAL DIRECTIONS. 
 
 money cannot well be ofFered, articles of hardware 
 are the most usual presents, telescopes, fine gun- 
 powder, &c. are highly prized. * 
 
 Due precautions for the preservation of health, 
 or for the event of sickness, are absolutely neces- 
 sary in preparing to visit a country, where health 
 may be affected by so many contingencies, and 
 where it is difficult to procure proper medical aid. 
 It will be necessary, therefore, to be provided with 
 some directions from a physician well acquainted 
 with the diseases of the Levant. Dr Down of 
 Florence, who has lived a considerable time there, 
 and has made these diseases his particular study, 
 either has published, or proposes to publish imme- 
 diately a treatise on their nature, symptoms, pre- 
 vention, and cure. This treatise, when published, 
 will be a valuable acquisition to all who propose 
 to visit Greece. In the meantime, should the 
 traveller not propose to pass through Florence on 
 his route to Greece, written directions may proba- 
 bly be procured by letter, on applying to Dr Down. 
 It would be of advantage to obtain these directions 
 before leaving Britain, where the medicines are bet- 
 ter prepared than on the Continent ; at all events, 
 it would not be advisable to trust to the chance of 
 procuring them in Greece. 
 
 * I do nut knuw any thing that would be more acceptable 
 to a Turk than a Kaleidoscope. 
 
 LETTER LXXVL 
 
 Departure from Greece, and return to England.^Conclusion, 
 
 We left Patras for England, and landed at the 
 Island of Zante, where, I may say, we saw the 
 first signs of civilization,— potatoes, fresh butter, 
 and a gallows ! We performed quarantine of twelve 
 days in a lazzaretto on the shore. Through the 
 kindness and friendly attention of Dr Thomas, our 
 situation was far from being unpleasant. We had 
 recourse to our books, journals, and drawings; 
 and the accomplished Count P , who ac- 
 companied us from Corinth, displayed his fine col- 
 lection of Grecian antiquities, and various splendid 
 dresses of the modern Turks. Every moment, in 
 short, was agreeably employed, and we felt no 
 languor. In such a place of confinement, however, 
 those who may have no employment must be mi- 
 serable in the extreme ; and, accordingly, we found 
 the walls scribbled over with many lamentations, 
 among which were the following lines : 
 
 " O Plague, thou worst disease ! For not alone 
 Does the unhappy wretch who feels thy pangs 
 
 
41^2 
 
 MOUNT ETNA. 
 
 Curse his existence :— eke the unlucky wight, 
 
 Confined in Lazzaretto, antl doora'd to drag 
 
 An half-existence during forty days 
 
 And forty tedious nights. Thou mortal foe of man, 
 
 Destroyer of the first of human virtues, 
 
 Love of our neighbour — even the venal wretch, 
 
 Who'd sell his soul for gold, shrinks from thy touch.'* 
 
 When our term of quarantine was expired we 
 sailed for Malta, where we remained with the 
 Lord High Commissioner, Sir Thomas Maitland, 
 for several days. We afterwards sailed in com- 
 pany with his Excellency to Syracuse in Sicily ; 
 and thence in a sparonarrow to Catania. From this 
 place we ascended Mount Etna, where we were 
 gratified with one of the grandest sights which it 
 is possible to conceive. The first or lowest part of 
 Etna, for sixteen or eighteen miles, is rich in a 
 variety of vegetable productions ; corn, wine, the 
 olive, the fig, and the prickly pear, flourish in 
 o-reat luxuriance. This is called the fertile region. 
 The next division is called the woody region, and 
 occupies the ascent for nearly five miles. The 
 barren region comprehends the whole top above 
 the forest of oak, pine, and beech. The climates 
 of the mountain include all degrees from the tor- 
 rid to the irigid. 
 
 No letter, however long, could convey an ac- 
 curate description of this celebrated mountain, — I, 
 therefore, confine myself to its general character, 
 with a few of its most striking peculiarities. 
 
 MOUNT ETNA. 
 
 413 
 
 Shortly after the commencement of the ascent, 
 we entered on a dusky desolate waste of thousands 
 of acres of ashes, and black and dismal overflow- 
 ings of lava ; the scoria? frosted like the refuse of 
 a glass-house, but in pieces of great size, and uni- 
 formly covering the lava, like clods of newly turn- 
 ed up earth left unbroken by the spade. Farther 
 on, this scene of desolation became more marked 
 and terrific. What must it have been in a state of 
 liquid fire, descending upon sylvan scenes, annihi- 
 lating the labours of man, his dwellings, and his 
 temples? The ravages of fire still increased as 
 we ascended. We travelled among rugged ruts 
 of lavas of various ages till we reached the foot of 
 Monte Rosso, (one of the ancient craters,) which, 
 from below, appeared almost as high as the sum- 
 mit of Etna. At last we gained an elevation from 
 which we could look down on Monte Rosso. 
 The island then appeared like a vast map spread 
 out below us, on which objects could only be tra- 
 ced by gleams of sunshine or by wandering sha- 
 dows. Ascending still farther, Monte Rosso sunk 
 greatly below the horizon, and the ocean and dis- 
 tant country seemed lifted to the skies ! How 
 small the works of man appeared ! We arrived 
 at the bottom of the great crater, after having 
 travelled over miles of ashes and lavas, fright- 
 fully rough and broken, and without the smallest 
 appearance of vegetable life. Great patches of 
 
414 
 
 MOUNT ETNA. 
 
 TAORMENIUM. 
 
 415 
 
 snow lay here and there upon the black surface, 
 the lava looking grimly through them like as many 
 fiends. Here we saw several skeletons of mules and 
 horses, which had probably been starved to death 
 by the cold, or died by the fatigue of the arduous 
 ascent. When climbing the cone of the great 
 crater, the ashes gave way under our feet as we at- 
 tempted to advance, while smoke, strongly im- 
 pregnated with offensive gas, was seen issuing from 
 innumerable crevices around us. 
 
 At last we stood upqn the pinnacle [—Where 
 was language then? Our short exclamations of 
 surprise and wonder were interrupted by the 
 almost suffocating vapours from the crater, the 
 hot sulphur, and salt, which covered our feet 
 and ancles, and the piercing cold of the at- 
 mosphere. The chaotic appearance of the great 
 mountain, with its many hideous mouths, of all 
 colours, the outlets of former eruptions, all pro- 
 claiming the dominion of fire, was quite appal- 
 ling. The sun was setting in amber-coloured 
 clouds, which shone reflected in the distant wa- 
 ters. Stromboli and his vassal islands were sur- 
 rounded with gloi7. Contrasting this scene with 
 the dismal crater itself, vomiting columns of dense 
 smoke from the profound abyss, a subject was pre- 
 sented to the pencil not to be surpassed ; tracing 
 the streams of lava from their sources to the sea, 
 and contemplating in imagination the awful meet- 
 
 ing of those elements. What a conflict must have 
 ensued ; heaven must have been long obscured by 
 the rage of their contention, and man reduced to 
 despair by the horrors of the infernal scene. We 
 stood viewing the sublime scenery till night un- 
 furled her robe of stars, and pierced with cold, 
 and almost stifled with smoke, we pronounced the 
 names of the celebrated philosophers, who have 
 studied and explained the mysteries of volcanic 
 power. We remained for the night in a hut con- 
 structed by Signor Gemmellaro * for the curious 
 traveller. 
 
 In the morning, we descended to Taonneniura, 
 which, compared with all we have seen in Greece 
 and Italy, presents scenery almost unparalleled in 
 point of grandeur. Add to this the noble vestiges 
 of ancient art, still strikingly displayed in the ruins 
 of its theatre, which may be ranked among the 
 most interesting remains of antiquity. From 
 Taormenium we travelled to Messina, and thence, 
 in our way to Leghorn, skirted the romantic and 
 memorable shores of Calabria, no less striking for 
 its varied character, than interesting as a portion 
 of the most celebrated country in the world. At 
 Leghorn, after a quarantine of ten days, it was 
 
 • Signor Gemmellaro is a considerable proprietor on 
 Mount Etna. 
 
 ■ii*«'>^».\ 
 
416 
 
 RETURN TO ENGLAND. 
 
 found necessary to pay a second visit to Rome, in 
 consequence of my invaluable friend Mr D.'s in- 
 disposition ; whence, after a stay of some months, 
 we set out on our journey to England, taking a 
 new route by Sienna to Florence ; thence by way of 
 Turin and Mount Cenis, we travelled through 
 France to our long-desired home. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Having now travelled through some of the 
 richest, the most populous, and the most civilized 
 countries of Europe, abounding in the materials of 
 national wealth and power, we could not fail to be 
 struck with the commanding influence which our 
 own country, so small a spot on the surface of the 
 globe, has possessed for centuries in the scale of 
 European policy. 
 
 A native of such a country, after journeying 
 long among the neighbouring states, returns from 
 the comparison which is forced upon him, with a de- 
 gree of pride and exultation, which he never could 
 have indulged before, or without, at least, being 
 doubtful of the grounds on which this presumed 
 superiority was supposed to rest. But the survey 
 is sufficient to convince him that this superiority is 
 just! that it is a moral superiority, independent 
 of, and apparently opposed to, smallness of terri- 
 tory, barrenness of soil, and severity of climate, all 
 of which seem, as it were, forced to yield to the do- 
 minion of mind ; — to the judgment with which hu- 
 man labour and skill are directed to the improve- 
 
 VOL, n. D d 
 
 "* '#_ 
 
 >-*^\ J. . 
 
 ^HitfMiMiimttiHi 
 
418 
 
 IMPROVEMENTS IN EDINBURGH. 
 
 NATIONAL MONUMENT. 
 
 419 
 
 ment of every circumstance which can affect the 
 condition of our species. 
 
 *« Oh England ! model to thy inward greatness, 
 Like little body with a mighty heart ; 
 What mightst thou do, that honour would thee do. 
 Were all thy children kind and natural." 
 
 Henry V, Chorus, Act II. 
 
 The splendid undertakings, and striking im- 
 provements which were begun in Edinburgh, prior 
 to my visit to the Continent, struck me, on my re- 
 turn, with surprise and delight. While abroad, 
 my interest in their progress was kept alive by ac- 
 counts and drawings* occasionally sent me by 
 a friend who knew how deep an interest I felt in 
 the embellishment of our northern capital. But I 
 had not ventured to anticipate that so much could 
 have been completed in so short a period. Seve- 
 ral new streets were nearly finished ; the magnifi- 
 cent undertaking of the Regent's Bridge was in 
 great forwardness ; together with the improvements 
 
 * These drawings, consisting chiefly of the Regent's 
 Bridge, and buildings on the Calton Hill, were executed by 
 Robert Stein, Esq. of this city, — from whose great talents, 
 now directed exclusively to the arts, many splendid works 
 may be expected. The Roman amateurs had an opportuni- 
 ty of judging, from these drawings, of the natural and archi- 
 tectural beauty of Edinburgh, and the inspection of them 
 greatly excited their surprise and admiration. 
 
 on the North Bridge, which, in a picturesque point 
 of view, so happily serve to combine the Old and 
 New Towns, uniting in producing a grand whole, 
 which, as seen from the Calton Hill, is at once beau- 
 tiful and sublime, and not surpassed in picturesque 
 effect by any city in Europe. The various struc- 
 tures on the Calton Hill, with that exquisite and 
 classical building the Observatory, designed by Mr 
 Playfair ; the additions to the College by the same 
 scientific architect ; the County Hall, Churches, 
 and Hospitals, besides many houses, villas, roads, 
 and improvements of every kind, all in a more re- 
 fined taste, and the whole accomplished in so short 
 a space, seemed almost like the work of enchant- 
 ment. 
 
 Nor is it less gratifying to observe, that the lead- 
 ing persons in this city are still contemplating mag- 
 nificent works, and ever ready to give the prefer- 
 ence to superior designs, with the view of giving a 
 classical air to modern Athens ! Is it too much, 
 then, to expect that a fac-simile, or a restoration 
 of the Temple of Minerva, may yet crown the Cal- 
 ton Hill as a monument, to proclaim to distant 
 ages not only the military glory, but the pure taste 
 which distinguishes our country in the present? 
 Is it too much to expect, that an enlightened pa- 
 tronage may call up genius, kindred to that of an- 
 cient times, and may direct our native talents to 
 efforts, similar to those which gave splendour to 
 
 "S^JK^flSA^ »=FiS»nMJ[?^ 
 
420 
 
 NATIONAL MONUMENT. 
 
 the age of Pericles ? Such an example of perfec- 
 tion would purify the general taste of the country 
 in all subsequent undertakings, and do more to 
 ennoble the age, than all the other trophies of 
 victory. * 
 
 • From thecxquisitc chisellinj; displayed in many of the or- 
 namented buildings lately erected in Edinburgh, it can hardly 
 be doubted, that workmen might be found in this city capable 
 of giving a faithful representation of any model or drawing 
 laid before them, and that they could sculpture a figure with 
 as much precision as an intricate Gothic ornament, or Corin- 
 thian capital. A professed sculptor might, indeed, be re- 
 quired to give the finishing and characteristic touches, but no 
 more. From what has been done, it is evident that the 
 warmth of patronage might elicit great talent which still lies 
 buried. 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ■^-/■H^^J^m^.x * .. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Description ofSignor Pizzamano's Medals, em- 
 blematical of the Ionian Islands, mentioned tn 
 p. 189, Vol. II. 
 
 l._CORFU. 
 
 CoRCYRA, the daughter of Asopus, carried off by Neptune, 
 was conducted into the Island of Drepano, where, having 
 fixed her abode, she had a son called Feacus, whence the 
 island itself received the name Feacia, and thence Corcyra. 
 The nymph sits upon a rock near the prow of a vessel, 
 having in one hand a cornucopia, in the other an ohve 
 branch, with the letters round about it KOPKT I'AinN. 
 On the reverse is represented a cow giving milk to a calf. 
 
 II._ITHACA. 
 
 Ithaca is famous in the verses of Homer, and Ulysses, 
 after the name of his country, was, by Antonomasia, called 
 Ithacus ; the attitude in which he is represented recalls that 
 in which, after his return, he was recognised by his old dog 
 
42-i 
 
 PIZZAMANO'S MEDALS. 
 
 Argos. The word IGAKHN is added. On the reverse is 
 dehneated the cock, sacred to xMinerva, grasping the light- 
 ning in his talons. 
 
 Ill— CEPHALONIA. 
 
 Cephalo, the son of Mercury and Creusa, condemned by 
 the Court of Areopagus to perpetual exile, for having un- 
 wittingly killed his wife Procris, passed into Thebes, thence 
 into the Island of Teleboi, which, after his name, was called 
 Cephalonia ; he appears in the medal armed with a dart, and 
 seated upon a rock in the act of refreshing himself by breath- 
 mg the zephyr, with his dog Lela at his feet, and the motto 
 KEa>AAAHNEnN. The reverse has a goat upon a club. 
 This island having four cities, for that reason the goat belongs 
 to.Cranii, the key to Pronei, the dog to Samos, and Cephalos 
 to the Pallensi. 
 
 IV.— CERIGO. 
 
 In the Island of Cithera, called also Porfirus, Venus was 
 solemnly worshipped, and from her it has taken the name 
 of Cithera. The goddess appears upon her shell, holding in 
 her right hand an apple, and drying with her left her hair 
 wet from the sea, with the letters KTGliPAinN. On the' 
 reverse are represented two pigeons kissing each other. 
 
 v.— SANTA MAURA. 
 
 The ancient Leucadia, the Neritos of Homer, was ren- 
 dered famous by the leap of Sappho, and was inhabited by 
 the Corinthians, who planted a colony there ; thence they 
 take the symbol of Bellerophon, who rides Pegasus, and 
 puts to death the chimera, with the description round AETKA 
 AIIIN. A lyre with seven strings occupies the reverse. 
 
 REVENUE OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 4^5 
 
 VI.— ZANTE. 
 
 The son of Dardanus, citizen of Psophida in Arcadia, 
 came to fix his residence in this island, originally Hyria, 
 to which he gave his own name ; he is represented sitting 
 upon a rock, holding in one hand the lyre, in the other the 
 pastoral staff, ZAKTNGinN round the edge. The reverse 
 exhibits a tripod between two branches of laurel. 
 
 VII.— PAXO. 
 
 This island, called anciently Ericusa, as mentioned by 
 Ptolomy, not having had any ancient monuments respect- 
 ing it, was advised to assume a helm and an olive crown, 
 with the motto EPIKOTSAinN. A trident between two 
 dolphina forms the ornament of the reverse. 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II. 
 
 Revenue qfth§ Ionian Islands, 
 
 Annual Revenues of 
 
 Eventual Re- 
 venues. Pro- 
 duce of 1815. 
 
 Fixed Revenues. 
 
 TOTAL. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Paras. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Paras. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Paras. 
 
 1 Zante, , 
 
 2 Cephalonia, 
 
 3 Santa Maura, 
 
 4 Ithaca, 
 
 5 Paxo, 
 (^erigo, 
 7 Targa, 
 
 71,779 
 
 79,807 
 
 2,011 
 
 1,970 
 
 240 
 
 130 
 
 35 
 
 142 
 03 
 
 129 
 90 
 
 83,015 
 8,387 
 
 30,271 
 0,093 
 
 6,717 
 5,570 
 1,032 
 
 180 
 107 
 138 
 
 70 
 
 190 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 154,795 
 88,194 
 38,283 
 8,009 
 0,957 
 5,700 
 1,007 
 
 102 
 170 
 
 47 
 
 100 
 
 190 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 Eventual Kevenues, 
 
 155,979 
 
 204 
 
 Fixed Revenue, 
 
 148,288 
 
 85 
 
 
 
 Total, 
 
 304,208 
 
 
4«6 
 
 BEV£NUE OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, 1816. 
 
 427 
 
 Statement, Ordinary and Extraordinary Expences paid during 
 
 the year 1815. 
 
 Islands of 
 
 Expences. 
 
 Receipts. 
 
 Surplus. 
 
 Deficiency. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Paras. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Paras. 
 
 Dollars- 
 
 Paras. 
 
 Dollars- 
 
 Paras. 
 
 1 Zante, . . 
 
 2 Cephalonia, 
 
 3 Santa Maura, 
 
 4 Paxe, • 
 
 5 Ithaca, . • 
 
 6 Parga, . • 
 
 7 Cerigo, . . 
 
 102,688 
 
 64,174 
 
 34,973 
 
 5,403 
 
 6,107 
 1,956 
 
 • 4,267 
 
 169 
 
 157 
 
 100 
 
 102 
 
 66 
 
 154,795 
 88,194 
 38,283 
 6,957 
 8,669 
 1,667 
 6,700 
 
 102 
 170 
 
 47 
 196 
 166 
 
 44 
 4 
 
 52,106 
 
 24,02(> 
 
 3,309 
 
 1,554 
 
 2,562 
 
 1,43:} 
 
 153 
 13 
 
 167 
 
 94 
 
 100 
 
 4 
 
 288 
 
 176 
 
 Expences, 
 
 219,570 
 
 154 
 
 288 
 
 176 
 
 
 Receipt, 
 
 304,268 
 
 69 
 
 
 Deduct defic 
 
 Surplus, 
 iency of Parga, 
 
 84,986 
 288 
 
 91 
 
 176 
 
 • Avtrc 
 
 t^rd. 
 
 
 Real Su 
 
 irplus. 
 
 83,697 
 
 135 
 
 APPENDIX, No. III. 
 
 General State of the Island of Ithaca^ for 
 
 the year 1816. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION. 
 Art. I. — Population and Buildings by a Census in 18X6. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 Buildings of every 
 Description. 
 
 Males. 
 
 Females. 
 
 Total 
 Num- 
 ber of 
 Souls. 
 
 To 
 16. 
 
 To 
 60. 
 
 Aged. 
 
 To- 
 
 tal. 
 
 To 
 16. 
 
 To 
 50. 
 
 Aged. 
 
 To- 
 tal. 
 
 1726 
 
 2215 
 
 231 
 
 4172 
 
 1575 
 
 1789 
 
 551 
 
 3915 
 
 8087 
 
 2206 
 
 Absent included in this state, males 1156; females 175, 
 and accounted for as follows : 
 
 Expatriated |, 
 
 In native ships, 
 
 In small craft and boats, 
 
 In foreign ships, 
 
 At labour in the adjacent counties, 
 
 190 
 275 
 135 
 250 
 
 481 
 
 1331 
 
 Accidents of Life for Three Years. 
 
 
 
 
 Deaths. 
 
 
 Year. 
 
 • 
 
 Births. 
 
 
 Grand 
 Total. 
 
 Male. 
 
 Female. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •S 
 46 
 
 6 
 
 111 
 
 a3 
 
 "3 
 B 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 • 
 
 CO 
 
 • 
 
 § 
 
 o 
 
 -i 
 
 be 
 
 < 
 
 t 
 
 o 
 
 29 
 
 50 
 
 o 
 
 10 
 
 i 
 
 o 
 
 11 
 
 -i 
 
 be 
 
 < 
 
 22 
 
 3 
 o 
 
 
 1813 
 
 66 
 
 177 
 
 8 
 
 1) 
 
 10 
 
 43 
 
 72 
 
 1814 
 
 32 
 
 85 
 
 56 
 
 141 
 
 20 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 58 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 59 
 
 114 
 
 1815 
 
 54 
 44 
 
 78 
 
 49 
 
 127 
 
 14 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 14 
 
 53 
 
 4-7 
 
 14 
 15 
 
 20 
 16 
 
 35 
 26 
 
 69 
 
 122 
 
 Average 
 
 91 
 
 57 
 
 148 
 
 14 
 
 19 
 
 56 
 
 103 
 
428 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, 1816. 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, I8l6. 
 
 429 
 
 From which it appears, 
 
 Isty That the males born are to the females nearly in the 
 proportion of 3 to 2 ; whereas those in existence are only in 
 the proportion of 13 to 12. 
 
 2 J, That of the males in existence 1 in every 18 has pass- 
 ed the age of 60, and of the females 1 in every 7 the age of 
 
 50. 
 
 3dy That the births are to the deaths nearly in the propor- 
 tion of 3 to 2, and the annual deaths of the existing popula- 
 tion 1 in 76. 
 
 4thy That the increase of the population is ^V^s of unity 
 per cent.jjer annum, and, consequently, in 124 years it would 
 
 be doubled. 
 
 5th, That by an accurate statement of the ages of those 
 who have died above 60 years old, the average age of the 
 males is 74, and of the females 71. 
 
 6thy That by a comparison of the population of the dis- 
 trict of Vathi 4464, with that of the district of Mavrona 
 S623, and of their respective deaths, the deaths of Mavrona 
 are to those of Vathi nearly as 3 to 2, which proves how 
 prejudicial to health is the emigration to the Continent, since 
 the persons who go are nearly all of the district of Mavrona, 
 for otherwise the air of that division of the island is excel- 
 lent. 
 
 ^thy That, supposing all the females between l6 and 50 
 
 married, nearly each has two children. 
 
 8//;, That, deducting from the buildings 560, Mavrona 410 
 Vathi 150, not dwelling-houses or uninhabited, and from the 
 population igo expatriated, each dwelling-house will have 
 4^ souls, and their number l686. 
 
 In the whole island there are 24 parishes, 15 in the dis- 
 trict of Vathi, and 9 in Mavrona. 
 
 Besides the above, the Islands of Calamus and Cottas 
 contain 1369 soul^, making the whole population subject to 
 the jurisdiction of Ithaca 9456 souls. 
 
 
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430 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, I8I6. 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, ISlC. 
 
 4S1 
 
 
 General Statement of 
 
 One Year, 
 
 Description. 
 
 Active. 
 
 Passive. 
 
 Total. 
 
 
 Dollars. Fr. Tar. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Pr. Par. 
 
 Dollars. Pr. Par. 
 
 Grain, 
 
 • • • • 
 
 28.918 
 
 5 00 
 
 28,918 5 
 
 Currants, 
 
 6,192 4 18 
 
 1,032 
 
 29 
 
 7,224 5 7 
 
 Wine, . 
 
 10,207 5 01 
 
 30,623 
 
 4 05 
 
 40,831 3 26 
 
 Oil, . 
 
 9,685 00 
 
 9,685 
 
 00 
 
 19,370 
 
 Flax, . 
 
 • • • • 
 
 1,991 
 
 5 15 
 
 1,991 5 15 
 
 FJax Seed, 
 
 559 06 
 
 • • 
 
 • • 
 
 559 6 
 
 Grand To- 
 tal, . 
 
 26,644. 4 05 
 
 72,251 
 
 4 09 
 
 98,896 2 34 
 
 From which it appears, 
 
 1st, That, deducting from the population 1000 only as 
 absent, making thereby an allowance for those who come and 
 go, there remains to be provided for in grain 7087, which, 
 calculating at six bacile each person per annumt require 
 42,522 bacile, or daily 136; consequently, the island pro- 
 duces about 117 days' or 4 months' consumption, and there 
 remains to be paid for 26,292 bacile, which, at 9 pi. 32 pa. 
 each bacile, equals 46,847 doll. 124 paras : to this must be 
 added about 2000 bacile for seed, thereby making the total 
 expence 50,411 doll. 44 para, which nearly doubles in value 
 the whole active produce ; therefore the difference, and pur- 
 chase of butchers* meat, fish, and every kind of wearing 
 apparel and manufacture, except stockings, cotton, linen, 
 and coarse woollen cloths, (the latter worn only by the shep- 
 herds,) all groceries, household furniture, and^materials for 
 building, saving stones, lime, and tiles, must be supplied 
 by gain from shipping and money spent by the soldiery^ or 
 remain a balance against the island. 
 
 The animals are about five months' consumption, and 50 
 bullocks and 1000 head of sheep and goats more, are neces- 
 sary for the supply of the whole year, which, reckoning the 
 former at 22 dollars each, and the latter at 4 dollars, may, 
 at a fair average, be valued at 5100 dollars. The mean 
 weight of the bullocks is 200 lbs., that of sheep and goat» 
 40 lbs. 
 
 From 10,000 to 12,000 lbs. of cheese are exported, which, 
 with the small quantity of almonds and locusts, may equal 
 the extra import of flax. 
 
 2fl?. That, by the below written abstract, calculated on 
 the average produce, and on the receipt of the customs on 
 imports of last year, the farm at 7058 dollars, 1 pias, 5 para, 
 per annum, is fairly let, since the omissions of entries in the 
 books of the customs, and some advantage on the other items, 
 might give 1000 dollars, or 100 dollars each for ten persons 
 for the collection. 
 
 Abstract of the Tithes and Customs, 
 
 TITHES. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Grain, 
 Wine, 
 Oil, 
 Flax, 
 
 * Pastures, 
 
 f Heath money, 
 
 X Oil presses 
 
 Rate. 
 
 { 
 
 J 
 
 to 
 
 1 dol. every 120 secchj, do. 
 I do. 30 bad. or 3} ; 
 
 to 
 3 gez,per annum on each ) 
 
 head of cattle, j 
 
 15 gez, per ann, per house, 
 10 lbs. of oil each, 75 
 
 para each. 
 
 Amount. 
 
 } 
 
 Dol. 
 -2891 
 583 
 447 
 199 
 
 
 125 
 
 87 
 27 
 
 1 1-360 
 
 Pr. 
 4 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Pa. 
 36 
 37 
 00 
 
 43 
 
 00 
 SO 
 00 
 
 5 06 
 
 CUSTOMS. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Curranis, 
 
 Wine, 
 
 Oil, 
 
 Flax-seed, 
 
 Other imports. 
 
 Animals, . -J 
 
 Rate. 
 
 Amount. 
 
 6 per cent, of the value, 
 20 para each barrel, 
 1 doll, and ^ do. do. 
 6 per cent, 
 
 4J per cent, on imports. 
 Bullocks >; dollars each, 
 sheep lOpr. pigs 25 para. 
 
 I 
 
 Dol. Pr. 
 
 371 3 
 
 265 
 
 838 
 
 S3 2 
 
 Pa. 
 04 
 20 
 27 
 38 
 
 ISOO 00 
 
 2808 1 29 
 
432 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, iSlG. 
 
 Doll. P. Pa. Doll. P. Pa. 
 TnMl JTithes, 4360 5 061 ^^ ^ j^ 
 ^^^^^^ i Customs, 2808 1 29^^^^ 
 
 Observations. 
 
 * Ut, About 10,000 head of cattle ^ 
 pay this tithe, - - - >240gaz.makeadollar. 
 
 Do. 1400 houses, . - ) 
 
 2dy The customs on the exportation of the flaxseed is 
 not counted, because it is spent to reduce the flax from the 
 
 herb fit for use. 
 
 f 3d, There are about 20 oil-presses in the island, and 20 
 
 mills. 
 
 J 4/A, Allowing 100 dollars profit for the subtenant of 
 
 Calamus, and the rent 110 dollars. 
 
 5th, That, as proved by the comparative table of loss and 
 gain, there is a deficit of 4985 doll. p. 38 pa. which must 
 be obtained by a loss of capital, and is the reason of the lit- 
 tle landholders setting their small loss of ground, since those 
 who have money by that means put it in circulation for the 
 common wants, nevertheless so much is diminished of the 
 real capital annually. 
 
 Tabic of Loss and Gain, 
 
 LOSS. 
 
 By purchase of grain, 
 
 By do. of other articles calculated on the 
 
 customs, deducting 76 doll. 2 p. 35 pa. 
 
 for butchers' meat, 
 By purchase of butchers' meat, 
 
 1 
 
 Amount. 
 
 Doll. Vr. 
 
 i'a. 
 
 50,411 1 
 
 04 
 
 27,176 1 
 
 9 
 
 5,100 
 
 
 
 82,687 2 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, 1816. 
 
 433 
 
 GAIN. 
 
 By sale of produce, .... 
 By shipping, as in Art. 4, . . . 
 By rations of soldiers, estimating total va- 1 
 lue 7000 doll, at 20 jaercew^ . / 
 
 By do. on pay of soldiers, calculating 1 m. ) 
 2 s^ 1 1. 1 p. 5 d. 85 p. at 7000 dollars, I 
 
 .1 
 Balance of loss. 
 
 at 20 per cent* 
 
 Amount 
 
 
 DoU. Pr. 
 26,644 4 
 48,257 2 
 
 Pa. 
 05 
 30 
 
 1400 
 
 
 
 1400 
 
 
 
 4985 
 
 38 
 
 82,687 2 
 
 13 
 
 Art. Ilh^Revenue and Expenditure 
 
 REVENUE 
 
 • 1 
 
 Period. 
 
 Certain. 
 
 Uncertain. 
 
 Total. 
 
 1816. 
 From 1st June to 30th Nov. 
 From 1st Dec. to 3 1st May, 
 1817. 
 
 DoU. 
 
 3808 
 4025 
 
 Pa. 
 
 157 
 46 
 
 DoU. Pa. 
 
 343 219 
 1670 100 
 
 DoU. Pa. 
 
 4152 156 
 5695 146 
 
 Grand total, 
 
 7833 
 
 203 
 
 2014 99 
 
 9848 82 
 
 Observations, 
 The increase in the ensuing six months arises from the 
 increased rent of the tithes and customs, and the tax on ex- 
 portation of the currants. 
 
 EXPENDITURE. 
 
 Period. 
 
 Ordinary. 
 
 Extraordiny. 
 
 Total. 
 
 1816. 
 From 1st June to 30th Nov. 
 From 1st Dec. to 3 1st May. 
 
 1817. 
 
 DoU. Pa. 
 
 2989 108 
 2994 91 
 
 DoU. Pa. 
 
 865 100 
 250 000 
 
 DoU. Pa. 
 
 3854 208 
 3244 91 
 
 Grand total, 
 
 .5983 I9f; 
 
 1115 100 
 
 7099 79 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 Ee 
 
484 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, I8IG. 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, 1816. 
 
 435 
 
 Observations, 
 The decrease in the extraordinary arises from a hope 
 that the expences, with regard to the plague, will be much 
 diminished, which was the chief head of expenditure. 
 
 DolL Fa. Doli- ^^' 
 
 In the chest 31st May "\ 
 
 I8I6, - - 2691 163 f atprescntin 
 
 Balance in favour from f the chest, 2989 111 
 
 1st June to 30th Nov. 1816. 297 168^ 
 
 Balance by estimation from 1st Dec. I8I6, to 
 31st May 1817, 2451 55 
 
 From which it appears, 
 
 \U, That the receipt exceeds the expenditure by 4902 doll. 
 Ill paras annually, which balance may be expected to con- 
 tinue, since the tithes and customs are only let for one year, 
 which undoubtedly lowers the price, as not affording the 
 means of supplying any loss of one season by gain on a sub- 
 sequent plentiful harvest, as is evident in Art. 2. 
 
 2</, That the revenue is about one-ninth of the produce, 
 independent of animals, cheese, and other minor articles. 
 
 Art. IV Shipping, 
 
 Descrip- 
 tion. 
 
 01 
 
 Vessels, 
 Ditto, 
 
 Craft, 
 
 Boats, 
 
 Sailors, 
 
 Ton- 
 nage. 
 
 Licensed. 
 
 Where employed. 
 
 Capital 
 at 20 
 
 dollars 
 per 
 Ton. 
 
 17 
 15 
 
 32 
 
 31 
 «2 
 
 14«0»lGcn. Gov. 
 \im^ Russian, 
 
 Local Gov. 
 
 2274 
 
 3598 
 
 Nvimbercd, 
 Ditto, 
 
 Foreign commerce, 
 
 Ditto, 
 i In the waters'! 
 < of ihc Ionian V 
 ( States, j 
 
 Ditto, 
 Round the island, 
 In foreign ships. 
 
 Dollar u 
 
 •20,t;io 
 
 37,801> 
 4,550 
 2,400 
 
 74,360 
 
 From wliich it appears, 
 
 Istf That more than one-third of the efficient male popu- 
 lation is engaged in the merchant service ; that is, of those 
 between 16 and GO. 
 
 2dy That the gain by shipping is nearly one-half of that 
 by agriculture. 
 
 3dy That nearly one-half of the vessels are employed in 
 the trade of the Black Sea, covering themselves with the 
 Russian flag, to facilitate their commerce. 
 
 Art. V. — Administration of the Government hy Officers^ with Salaries or Fees* 
 
 Names. 
 
 Office. 
 
 Monthly 
 Salary. 
 
 Fees. 
 
 Character and 
 Observations. 
 
 
 
 DolLPrs, 
 
 
 
 Gerasimo Drachuli, 
 
 Counsellor, 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Giovanni Uassopula, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 10 
 
 
 f At full m political 
 
 Spiro Pillico, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 10 
 
 
 i state. 
 
 Emmanuel Flam- \ 
 barian, j 
 
 Secretary, 
 
 26 
 
 
 / Prolix, but honest, 
 \ and of some ability. 
 f Ignorant, yet will- 
 
 Salamon de Salamon, 
 
 Assistant ditto, 
 
 10 
 
 
 < ing to learn, and 
 (, becoming useful. 
 
 Georgio Vretto, 
 
 Ditto ditto. 
 
 10 
 
 
 / Stupid, and cannot 
 
 \ write. 
 
 i In every way cal- 
 
 Giovanni Drachuli, 
 
 Under Treasurer, 
 
 22 
 
 
 -< culated for his si* 
 ( tuation. 
 
 Gaspare Lavotte, 
 
 Gov. Adjutants, 
 
 13 
 
 
 Superannuated. 
 
 Leonidas Drachuli, 
 
 f Chancellorofthel 
 \ Health Office, j 
 
 
 Fees 
 
 rin every way cal- 
 i culated for his si- 
 
 
 
 
 t. tuation. 
 
 Caralambo Zavo, 
 
 Assistant ditto, 
 
 
 Do. 
 
 Of no use. 
 
 Giorgio Salamon Ive, 
 
 Court of the 1st Inst. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Superannuated. 
 
 DemetrioMigliaressi, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 10 
 
 
 Honest and upright. 
 
 Giovanni Caravia, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 _ ja — 
 
 10 
 
 
 (Ditto ditto, but in 
 \ very bad health. 
 
 141 
 
 
43G 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, I8I6. 
 
 Names. 
 
 Office. Monthly 
 
 Fees. 
 
 Character and 
 
 
 
 Salary. 
 
 
 Observations. 
 
 
 ZX>//.P/«. 
 
 
 
 
 141 
 
 
 
 
 r Supernumerary ^ 
 
 
 
 
 Giovanni Vretto, 
 
 -J member of the > 
 t same, ) 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Giovanni Meciiglotte, 
 
 Ditto, ditto, 
 ("Minister of the*) 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Giovanni Drachuli, 
 
 i Civil and Cri- V 
 (_ minal Court, j 
 
 
 Fees 
 
 Usdul. 
 
 
 fDo. do. of Com- 1 
 
 
 Do. 
 
 Superannuated. 
 
 Michcli Roditi, 
 
 < merce. Keeper > 
 I. of the Records, 3 
 
 
 Dq. 
 
 
 
 
 
 r Calculated for his 
 
 Giovanni Penala, 
 
 Gov. Attorney, 
 
 8 
 
 ^ situation, but ra- 
 
 
 
 
 
 (^ ther tedious. 
 
 Panagin Drachuli, 
 
 Justice of the Peace, 
 
 12 
 
 
 Honest and upright. 
 
 Zorsi Hassopulo, 
 
 Register of ditto, 
 f Justice of thcl 
 •J Peace at Cala- ^ 
 i neol, 3 
 
 
 Fees 
 
 Superannuated. 
 
 Dementrio Drachuli. 
 
 18 
 
 
 Active. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Georgio Zavo, 
 
 Register of ditto. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Dionisio Caravia, 
 
 Greek Master, 
 
 20 
 
 
 Respectable man. 
 
 Vicenzo Nanuszi^ 
 
 Italian ditto. 
 
 20 
 
 
 The boys improve. 
 
 Basilio Zavo, 
 
 Public Physician, 
 
 7 
 
 
 f At full in political 
 \ state. 
 
 Marin Salamon, 
 
 / Overseer on thel 
 \ Excise on Wine, j 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Andrea Drachuli, 
 
 Post-Master, 
 
 5 
 
 
 f The pay more than 
 \ the proht. 
 
 Eustachio Petela, 
 
 Captain of the Port, 
 
 20 
 
 
 Ditto ditto. 
 
 Spiro Lavo, 
 
 Assistant ditto, 
 
 10 
 
 
 A useless office. 
 
 Vangelin Vretto, 
 
 Captain of Militia, 
 
 20 
 
 
 Active and useful. 
 
 Anaitasio Caravia, 
 
 Capo Cinguantina, 
 1 Total monthly. 
 
 6 43 
 
 i 
 ' 
 
 
 316 4J 
 
 STATE OF ITHACA, 1816. 
 
 Art. VL-^Militia. 
 
 437 
 
 
 Corps. 
 
 • 
 
 c 
 
 • 
 
 g 
 
 .■^ 
 
 ei 
 JO 
 
 3 
 
 • 
 
 CO 
 
 ■*-» 
 
 c 
 
 2 
 •»? 
 
 Rank 
 and 
 File. 
 
 5 
 S66 
 
 371 
 
 Police, 
 Ceollede, 
 
 * a . 
 
 Total, 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 40 
 
 
 Observations. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rank and File on permanent pay, and employed as Orderlies 
 
 and Messengers, 
 2 Serjeants and 8 rank and file unfit for service. 
 
 60 ditto employed constantly in the trade 
 with the adjacent continent. 
 1 Ditto 76 ditto have left the island for some time, 
 
 and are not likely to return. 
 From which it appears. 
 
 That by reference to the column of males to 60, in 
 Art. I., one in every five and a half is enrolled in the milUia. 
 
 END OF VOLUME SECOND. 
 
 Independent of the Capo di Governo, who has one dollar and half >;er diem, 
 
 10 
 
 Printed by George Kamsay & Co. 
 tdinburgh, 1818. 
 
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