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 WORK. 
 
 A 
 
 NARRATIVE 
 
 OF THE 
 
 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 PERFORMED BY 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. 
 
 '- 
 
 THE FIRST, 
 IN THE YEARS 1768, 1769, 1770, AND 1771. 
 
 THE SECOND, 
 [N THE YEARS 1772, 1773, 1774, AND 1775. 
 
 THE THIRD, 
 IN THE YEARS 1776, 1777, 1778, AND 1779. 
 
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NARRATIVE 
 
 OF THE 
 
 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 PERFORMED BY 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. 
 
 WITH AN 
 
 ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE, 
 
 DURING THE PREVIOUS AND INTERVENING PERIODS. 
 
 BY 
 
 A. KIPPIS, D.D. F.R.S. and S.A.j 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 CHISWICK : 
 
 PRINTED BY C. AND C. WHITTINGHAM. 
 SOLD BY THOMAS TEGG, 73, CHEAPSIDE; 
 
 N. HAILES, PICCADILLY ; 
 
 BOWDERY AND KIRBY, OXFORD STREET, IONDON! 
 
 AND RICHARD GRIFFIN AND CO. GLASGOW. 
 
 1826. 
 

 vs 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 

 TO 
 
 THE KING. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 1 esteem myself highly honoured in being per- 
 mitted to dedicate and present my Narrative of 
 the Life and Actions of Captain James Cook to 
 your Majesty. It was owing to your Majesty's 
 royal patronage and bounty, that this illustrious 
 navigator was enabled to execute those vast un- 
 dertakings, and to make those extraordinary dis- 
 coveries, which have contributed so much to the 
 reputation of the British empire, and have re- 
 flected such peculiar glory on your Majesty's 
 reign. Without your Majesty's munificence and 
 encouragement, the world would have remained 
 destitute of that immense light which has been 
 thrown on geography, navigation, and the most 
 important sciences. To your Majesty, therefore, 
 a work like the present is with particular pro- 
 priety addressed. 
 
 It is impossible, on this occasion, to avoid ex- 
 tending my thoughts to the other noble instances 
 in which your Majesty's liberal protection of 
 science and literature has been displayed. Your 
 Majesty began your reign in a career so glorious 
 to princes : and wonderful has been the increase 
 of knowledge and taste in this country. The im- 
 provements in philosophical science, and parti- 
 cularly in astronomy ; the exertions of experi- 
 mental and chemical inquiry, the advancement of 
 natural history, the progress and perfection of 
 the polite arts, and the valuable compositions 
 that have been produced in every department of 
 learning, have corresponded with your Majesty's 
 
 i'dl 
 
 
VI DEDICATION. 
 
 gracious wishes and encouragement, and have 
 rendered the name of Britain famous in every 
 quarter of the globe. If there be any persons 
 who, in these respects, would depreciate the pre- 
 sent times, in comparison with those which have 
 preceded them, it may safely be asserted, that 
 such persons have not duly attended to the his- 
 tory of literature. The course of my studies has 
 enabled me to speak with some confidence on the 
 subject ; and to say, that your Majesty's reign is 
 eminently distinguished by one of the greatest 
 glories that can belong to a monarch. 
 
 Knowledge and virtue constitute the chief hap- 
 piness of a nation : and it is devoutly to be wished 
 that the virtue of this country were equal to its 
 knowledge. If it be not so, this does not arise 
 from the want of an illustrious example in the 
 person of your Majesty, and that of your royal 
 Consort. The pattern which is set by the King 
 and Queen of Great Britain, of those qualities 
 which are the truest ornaments and felicities of 
 life, affords a strong incitement to the imitation 
 of the same excellences ; and cannot fail of con- 
 tributing to the more extensive prevalence of that 
 moral conduct on which the welfare of society so 
 greatly depends. 
 
 That your Majesty may possess every felicity 
 in your royal Person and Family, and enjoy a 
 long and prosperous reign, over an enlightened, 
 a free, and a happy people, is the sincere and 
 ardent prayer of, 
 
 Sir, 
 Your Majesty's most faithful, 
 and most obedient, 
 
 subject and servant, 
 
 Andrew Kippis. 
 
 London, 
 June 13, 1788. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Although I have often appeared before the 
 public as a writer, I never did it with so much 
 diffidence and anxiety as on the present occasion. 
 This arises from the peculiar nature of the work 
 in which I have now engaged. A Narrative of 
 the Life and Actions of Captain Cook must prin- 
 cipally consist of the voyages and discoveries he 
 made, and the. difficulties and dangers to which 
 he was exposed. The private incidents concern- 
 ing him, though collected with the utmost dili- 
 gence, can never compare, either in number or 
 importance, with his public transactions. His 
 public transactions are the things that mark the 
 man, that display his mind and his character; 
 and, therefore, they are the grand objects to which 
 the attention of his biographer must be directed. 
 However, the right conduct of this business is a 
 point of no small difficulty and embarrassment. 
 The question will frequently arise, How far the 
 detail should be extended ? There is a danger, on 
 the one hand, of being carried to an undue length, 
 and of enlarging, more than is needful, on facts 
 which maybe thought already sufficiently known ; 
 and, on the other hand, of giving such a jejune 
 account, and such a slight enumeration of impor- 
 tant events, as shall disappoint the wishes and 
 expectations of the reader. Of the two extremes, 
 the last seems to be that which should most be 
 avoided ; for, unless what Captain Cook per- 
 formed, and what he encountered, be related 
 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 somewhat at large, his Life and Actions would be 
 imperfectly represented to the world. The pro- 
 per medium appears to be, to bring forward the 
 things in which he was personally concerned, and 
 to pass slightly over other matters. Even here it 
 is scarcely possible, nor would it be desirable, to 
 avoid the introduction of some of the most striking 
 circumstances which relate to the new countries 
 and inhabitants that were visited by our great 
 navigator ; since these constitute a part of the 
 knowledge and benefit derived from his under- 
 takings. Whether I have been so happy as to 
 preserve the due medium, I presume not to deter- 
 mine. I have been anxious to do it, without al- 
 ways being able fully to satisfy my own mind that 
 I have succeeded ; on which account I shall not 
 be surprised if different opinions should be formed 
 on the subject. In that case, all that I can offer 
 in my own defence will be, that I have acted to 
 the best of my judgment. At any rate, I flatter 
 myself with the hope of having presented to the 
 public a work not wholly uninteresting or unen- 
 tertaining. Those who are best acquainted with 
 Captain Cook's expeditions, may be pleased with 
 reviewing them in a more compendious form, and 
 with having his actions placed in a closer point 
 of view, in consequence of their being divested 
 of the minute nautical, and other details, which 
 were essentially necessary in the voyages at large. 
 As to those persons, if there be any, who have 
 hitherto obtained but an imperfect knowledge of 
 what was done and discovered by this illustrious 
 man, they will not be offended with the length of 
 the following narrative. 
 
 In various respects, new information will be 
 found in the present performance ; and other 
 things, which were less perfectly known before, 
 are set in a clearer and fuller light. This, I trust, 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 will appear in the first, third, fifth, and seventh 
 chapters. It may be observed, likewise, that the 
 fresh matter now communicated is of the most 
 authentic kind, and derived from the most re- 
 spectable sources. My obligations of this nature 
 are, indeed, very great, and call for my warmest 
 gratitude. The dates and facts relative to Cap- 
 tain Cook's different promotions are taken from 
 the books of the Admiralty, by the direction of 
 the noble lord who is at the head of that Board, 
 and the favour of Mr. Stephens. I embrace with 
 pleasure this opportunity of mentioning, that, in 
 the course of my life, I have experienced, in se- 
 veral instances, Lord Howe's condescending and 
 favourable attention. To Mr. Stephens I am in- 
 debted for other communications besides those 
 which concern the times of Captain Cook's pre- 
 ferments, and for his general readiness in forward- 
 ing the design of the present work. The Earl of 
 Sandwich, the great patron of our navigator, and 
 the principal mover in his mighty undertakings, 
 has honoured me with some important informa- 
 tion concerning him, especially with regard to the 
 circumstances which preceded his last voyage. 
 To Sir Hugh Palliser's zeal for the memory of 
 his friend I stand particularly obliged. From a 
 large communication, with which he was so good 
 as to favour me, I have derived very material 
 intelligence, as will appear in the course of the 
 narrative, and especially in the first chapter. In 
 the same chapter are some facts which I received 
 from Admiral Graves, through the hands of the 
 Rev. Dr. Douglas, now Bishop of Carlisle, (whose 
 admirable Introduction to the Voyage to the Pa- 
 cific Ocean must be of the most essential service 
 to every writer of the Life of Captain Cook). The 
 Captain's amiable and worthy Widow, who is held 
 in just esteem by all his friends, has given me an 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 Page 
 CHAP. IV. continued. 
 
 Narrative of Captain Cook's second Voyage 
 
 round the World 1 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Account of Captain Cook during the Period be- 
 tween his second and third Voyage 35 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Narrative of Captain Cook's third Voyage to the 
 Period of his Death 50 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Character of Captain Cook. — Effects of his Voy- 
 ages^ — Testimonies of Applause. — Commemora- 
 tions of his Services. — Regard paid to his Fa- 
 mily. — Conclusion 166 
 
 ArPENDix . . , 195 
 
OL,COL(,„ N 
 
 A 
 
 NARRATIVELY R^! 
 
 or the rj rv 
 
 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 PERFORMED BY 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Account of Captain Cook, previous to his first Voyage 
 round the World. 
 
 Captain- James Cook had no claim to distinction on 
 account of the lustre of his birth, or the dignity of his 
 ancestors. His father, James Cook, who from his dia- 
 lect is supposed to have been a Northumbrian, was in 
 the humble station of a servant in husbandry, and mar- 
 ried a woman of the same rank with himself, whose 
 christian name was Grace. Both of them were noted 
 in their neighbourhood for their honesty, sobriety, and 
 diligence. They first lived at a v illage called Morton, 
 and then removed to Marton, another village in the 
 North-riding of Yorkshire, situated in the high road 
 from Gisborough, in Cleveland, to Stockton upon 1 ees, 
 in the countv of Durham, at the distance of six miles 
 from each of these towns. At Marton, Captain Cook 
 was born, on the 27th of October, 172S * ; and, agree- 
 
 * The mud house in which Captain Cook drew his first 
 breath is pulled down, and no vestiges of it are now remain- 
 ing. 
 
 .1. E 
 
2 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK 
 
 ably to the custom of the vicar of the parish, whose 
 practice it was to baptize infants soon after their birth, 
 he was baptized on the 3d of November following. He 
 was one of nine children, all of whom are now dead, 
 excepting a daughter, who married a fisherman at Red- 
 car. The first rudiments of young Cook's education 
 were received by him at Marton, where he was taught 
 to read by dame Walker, the schoolmistress of the vil- 
 lage. When he was eight years of age, his father, in 
 consequence of the character he had obtained for indus- 
 try, frugality, and skill in husbandry, had a little pro- 
 motion bestowed upon him, which was that of being 
 appointed head servant, or hind *-, to a farm belonging 
 to the late Thomas Skottow, Esq. called Airy Holme, 
 near Great Ayton. To this place, therefore, he removed ' 
 with his family! ; and his son James, at Mr. Skottow's 
 expense, was put to a da} r school in Ayton, where he 
 was instructed in writing, and in a few of the first rules 
 of arithmetic. 
 
 Before he was thirteen years of age, he was bound an 
 apprentice to Mr. William Sanderson, a haberdasher, 
 or shopkeeper, at Straiths, a considerable fishing town, 
 about ten miles north of Whitby. This employment, 
 however, was very unsuitable to young Cook's disposi- 
 tion. The sea was the object of his inclination ; and his 
 passion for it could not avoid being strengthened by the 
 situation of the town in which he was placed, and the 
 manner of life of the persons with Avhom he must fre- 
 quently converse. Some disagreement having happened 
 between him and his master, he obtained his discharge, 
 and soon after bound himself for seven years to Messrs. 
 John and Henry Walker, of Whitby, Quakers by reli- 
 gious profession, and principal owners of the ship Free- 
 love, and of another vessel, both of which were con- 
 stantly employed in the coal trade. The greatest part 
 of his apprenticeship was spent on board the Free-love. 
 
 * This is the name which, in that part of the country, is 
 given to the head servant, or bailiff, of a farm. 
 
 + Mr. Cook, senior, spent the close of his life with his 
 daughter, at Redcar, and is supposed to have been about 
 eighty-five years of age when he died. 
 
PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 3 
 
 After he was out of his time, he continued to serve in 
 the coal and other branches of trade (though chiefly in 
 the former) in the capacity of a common sailor ; till, at 
 length, he was raised to he mate of one of Mr. John 
 "Walker's ships. During this period it is not recollected 
 that he exhibited any thing very peculiar, either in his 
 abilities or his conduct ; though there can be no doubt 
 but that he had gained a considerable degree of know- 
 ledge in the practical part of na\ igation, and that his 
 attentive and sagacious mind was laying up a store of 
 observations, which would be useful to him in future 
 life. 
 
 In the spring of the year 1755, when hostilities broke 
 out between England and France, and there was a hot 
 press for seamen, Mr. Cook happened to be in the river 
 Thames with the ship to which he belonged. At first 
 he concealed himself, to avoid being pressed; but re- 
 flecting, that it might be difficult, notwithstanding all 
 his vigilance, to elude discovery or escape pursuit, he 
 determined, upon further consideration, to enter volun- 
 tarily into his majesty's service, and to take his future 
 fortune in the royal navy. Perhaps he had some pre- 
 sage in his own mind, that by his activity and exertions 
 he might rise considerably above his present situation. 
 Accordingly, he went to a rendezvous atWapping, and 
 entered with an officer of the Eagle man of war, a ship 
 of sixty guns, at that time commanded by Captain Ha- 
 mer. To this ship Captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) Pal- 
 liser was appointed, in the month of October, 1755 ; and 
 when he took the command, found in her James Cook, 
 whom he soon distinguished to be an able, active, and 
 diligent seaman. All the officers spoke highly in his 
 favour, and the captain was so well pleased with his be- 
 haviour, that he gave him every encouragement which 
 lay in his power. 
 
 In the course of some time, Captain Palliser received 
 a letter from Mr. Osbaldeston, then member of Parlia- 
 ment for Scarborough, acquainting him that several 
 neighbours of his had solicited him to write in favour 
 of one Cook, on board the captain's ship. They had 
 heard that Captain Palliser had taken notice of him, and 
 
4 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK 
 
 they requested, if he thought Cook deserving of it, that 
 he would point out in what manner Mr. Osbaldeston 
 might best contribute his assistance towards forwarding 
 the young man's promotion. The captain, in his reply, 
 did justice to Cook's merit ; but, as he had been only a 
 short time in the navy, informed Mr. Osbaldeston that 
 he could not be promoted as a commission officer. A 
 master's warrant, Captain Palliser added, might perhaps 
 be procured for Mr. Cook, by which he would be raised 
 to a station that he was well qualified to discharge with 
 ability and credit. 
 
 Such a warrant he obtained on the 10th of May, 1759, 
 for the Grampus sloop ; but the proper master haA ing 
 unexpectedly returned to her, the appointment did not 
 take place. Four days after he was made master of the 
 Garland ; when, upon inquiry, it was found, that he 
 could not join her, as the ship had already sailed. On 
 the next day, the 15th of May, he was appointed to the 
 Mercury. These quick and successive appointments 
 show that his interest was strong, and that the intention 
 to serve him was real and effectual. 
 
 The destination of the Mercury was to North Ame- 
 rica, where she joined the fleet under the command of 
 Sir Charles Saunders, which, in conjunction with the 
 land forces under General Wolfe, was engaged in the 
 famous siege of Quebec. During that siege, a difficult 
 and dangerous service was necessary to be performed. 
 This was to take the soundings in the channel of the 
 river St. Lawrence, between the island of Orleans and 
 the north shore, directly in the front of the French for- 
 tified camp at Montmorency and Beauport, in order to 
 enable the admiral to place ships against the enemy's 
 batteries, and to cover our army on a general attack, 
 which the heroic Wolfe intended to make on the camp. 
 Captain Palliser, in consequence of his acquaintance 
 with Mr. Cook's sagacity and resolution, recommended 
 him to the service ; and he performed it in the most 
 complete manner. In this business he was employed 
 during the nighttime, for several nights together. At 
 length he was discovered by the enemy, Avho collected 
 a great number of Indians and canoes, in a wood near 
 
* PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 5 
 
 the waterside, which were launched in the night, for 
 the purpose of surrounding him, and cutting him oft*. 
 On this occasion, he had a very narrow escape. He 
 was obliged to run for it, and pushed on shore on the 
 island of Orleans, near the guard of the English hospital . 
 Some of the Indians entered at the stern of the boat, as 
 Mr. Cook leaped out at the bow ; and the boat, which 
 was a barge belonging to one of the ships of war, was 
 carried away in triumph. However, he furnished the 
 admiral with as correct and complete a draught of the 
 channel and soundings as could have been made after 
 our countrymen were in possession of Quebec. Sir 
 Hugh Palliser had good reason to believe, that before 
 this time Mr. Cook had scarcely ever used a pencil, and 
 that he knew nothing of drawing. But such was his 
 capacity, that he speedily made himself master of every 
 object to which he applied his attention. 
 
 Another important service was performed by Mr.Cook 
 while the fleet continued in the river of St. Lawrence. 
 The navigation of that river is exceedingly difficult and 
 hazardous. It was particular! v so to the English, who 
 were then in a great measure strangers to this part of 
 North America, and who had no chart, on the correct- 
 ness of which they could depend. It was therefore 
 ordered by the admiral, that Mr. Cook should be em- 
 ployed to survey those parts of the river, below Quebec, 
 which navigators had experienced to be attended with 
 peculiar difficulty and danger; and he executed the 
 business with the same diligence and skill of which he 
 had already afforded so happy a specimen. When he 
 had finished the undertaking, his chart of the river St. 
 Lawrence was published, with soundings, and directions 
 for sailing in that river. Of the accuracy and utility of 
 this chart, it is sufficient to say, that it hath never since 
 been found necessary to publish anv other. One, which 
 has appeared in France, is only a copy of our author's, 
 on a reduced scale. 
 
 After the expedition at Quebec, Mr. Cook, by war- 
 rant from Lord Colvill, was appointed, on the 22d of 
 September, 1759, master of the Northumberland man 
 of war, the ship in which his lordship staid, in the fol- 
 
6 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK 
 
 lowing winter, as commodore, with the command of a 
 squadron at Halifax. In this station, Mr. Cook's be- 
 haviour did not fail to gain him the esteem and friend- 
 ship of his commander. During the leisure, which the 
 season of winter afforded him, he employed his time in 
 the acquisition of such knowledge as eminently quali- 
 fied him for future service. It was at Halifax that he 
 first read Euclid, and applied himself to the study of 
 astronomy and other branches of science. The books 
 of which he had the assistance were few in number : but 
 his industry enabled him to supply many defects, and to 
 make a progress far superior to what could be expected 
 from the advantages he enjoyed. 
 
 While Mr. Cook was master of the Northumberland 
 under Lord Colvill, that ship came to Newfoundland in 
 September, 1762, to assist in the recapture of the island 
 from the French, by the forces under the command of 
 Lieutenant-colonel Amherst. When the island was re- 
 covered, the English fleet staid some days at Placentia, 
 in order to put it in a more complete state of defence. 
 During this time Mr. Cook manifested a diligence in 
 surveying the harbour and heights of the place, which 
 arrested the notice of Captain (now Admiral) Graves, 
 commander of the Antelope, and governor of Newfound- 
 land. The governor was hence induced to ask Cook a 
 variety of questions, from the answers to which he was 
 led to entertain a very favourable opinion of his abili- 
 ties. This opinion was increased, the more he saw of 
 Mr. Cook's conduct; who, wherever they went, conti- 
 nued to display the most unremitting attention to every 
 object that related to the knowledge of the coast, and 
 was calculated to facilitate the practice of navigation. 
 The esteem which Captain Graves had conceived for him 
 was confirmed by the testimonies to his character, that 
 were given by ail the officers under whom he served. 
 
 In the latter end of 1762, Mr. Cook returned to Eng- 
 land; and, on the 21st of December, in the same year, 
 married, at Barking in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, an 
 amiable and deserving woman, who was justly entitled 
 to and enjoyed his tenderest regard and affection. But 
 his station in life, and the high duties to which he was 
 
PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 7 
 
 called, did not permit him to partake of matrimonial 
 felicity, without many and very long interruptions. 
 
 Early in the year 1763, after the peace with France 
 and Spain was concluded, it was determined that Cap- 
 tain Graves should go out again, as governor of New- 
 foundland. As the country was very valuable in a com- 
 mercial view, and had been an object of great conten- 
 tion between the English and the French, the captain 
 obtained an establishment for the survey of its coasts ; 
 which, however, he procured with some difficulty, be- 
 cause the matter was not sufficiently understood by 
 government at home. In considering the executiou of 
 the plan, Mr. Cook appeared to Captain Graves to be a 
 proper person for the purpose : and proposals were made 
 to him, to which, notwithstanding his recent marriage, 
 he readily and prudently acceded. Accordinglv, he 
 went out with the captain as surveyor ; and was first 
 employed to survey Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had 
 been ceded by the treaty to the French, who, bv order 
 of administration, were to take possession of them at a 
 certain period, even though the English commander 
 should not happen to be arrived in the country. When 
 Captain Graves had reached that part of the world, he 
 found there the governor who had been sent from France 
 (Mods. D'Anjac), with all the settlers and his own fa- 
 mily, on board a frigate and some transports. It was 
 contrived, however, to keep them in that disagreeable 
 situation for a whole month, which was the time taken 
 by Mr. Cook to complete his survey. "When the busi- 
 ness was finished, the French were put into possession 
 of the two islands, and left in the quiet enjoyment of 
 them, with every profession of civility. 
 
 At the end of the season, Mr. Cook returned to Eng- 
 land, but did not long continue at home. In the begin- 
 ning of the year 1764, his old and constant friend and 
 patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, was appointed governor and 
 commodore of Newfoundland and Labradore: upon 
 which occasion, he was glad to take Mr. Cook with him, 
 in the same capacity that he had sustained under Cap- 
 tain Graves. Indeed, no man could have been found, 
 who was better qualified for finishing the design which 
 
8 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK 
 
 had been begun in the preceding year. The charts of 
 the coasts, in that part of Morth America, were very 
 erroneous ; and it was highly necessary to the trade 
 and navigation of his majesty's subjects, that new ones 
 should be formed, which would be more correct and 
 useful. Accordingly, under the orders of Commodore 
 Palliser, Mr. Cook was appointed on the 18th of April, 
 1764, marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labradore ; 
 and he had a vessel, the Greuville schooner, to attend 
 him for that purpose. How well he executed his com- 
 mission is known to every man acquainted with navi- 
 gation. The charts, which he afterwards published of 
 the different surveys he had made, reflected great cre- 
 dit on his abilities and character, and the utility of them 
 is universally acknowledged. It is understood, that, so 
 far as Newfoundland is concerned, thev were of consi 
 derable service to the king's ministers, in settling the 
 terms of the last peace. Mr. Cook explored the inland 
 parts of this island in a much completer manner than 
 had ever been done before. By penetrating further into 
 the middle of the country than any man had hitherto 
 attempted, he discovered several large lakes, which are 
 indicated upon the general chart. In these services 
 Mr. Cook appears to have been employed, with the 
 intervals of occasionally returning to England for the 
 winter season, till the year 1767, which was the last 
 time that he went out upon his station of marine sur- 
 veyor of Newfoundland. It must not be omitted, that, 
 while he occupied this post, he had an opportunity of 
 exhibiting to the Royal Society a proof of his progress 
 in the study of astronomy. A short paper was written 
 by him, and inserted in the fifty-seventh volume of the 
 Philosophical Transactions, entitled, " An Observation 
 of an Eclipse of the Sun at the Island of Newfoundland, 
 August 5, 1766, with the Longitude of the Place of 
 Observation deduced from it." The observation was 
 made at one of the Burgeo islands, near Cape Ray, in 
 latitude 47° 36' 19", on the south-west extremity of 
 Newfoundland. Mr. Cook's paper having been com- 
 municated by Dr. Bevis to Mr. Witchell, the latter gen- 
 tleman compared it with an observation at Oxford, by 
 
PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 9 
 
 the Rev. Mr. Hornsby, on the same eclipse, and thence 
 computed the difference of longitude respecting the 
 places of observation, making due allowance for the 
 effect of parallax, and the prolate spheroidal figure of 
 the earth. It appears from the Transactions that our 
 navigator had already obtained the character of being 
 an able mathematician. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Narrative of Captain Cook's first Voyage, round the 
 
 World. 
 
 There is scarcely any thing from which the natural 
 curiosity of man receives a higher gratification, than 
 from the accounts of distant countries and nations. Nor 
 is it curiosity only that is gratified by such accounts ; 
 for the sphere of human knowledge is hereby enlarged, 
 and various objects are brought into view, an acquain- 
 tance with which greatly contributes to the improve- 
 ment of life and the benelit of the world. With regard 
 to information of this kind, the moderns ha^ e eminently 
 the advantage over the ancients. The ancients could 
 neither pursue their inquiries with the same accuracy, 
 nor carry them on to the same extent. Travelling by 
 land was much more inconvenient and dangerous than 
 it hath been in later times ; and, as navigation was prin- 
 cipally confined to coasting, it must necessarily have 
 been circumscribed within ^ery narrow limits. 
 
 The invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent 
 and enterprising spirit of several able men, was followed 
 by wonderful discoveries. Vasco di Gama doubled the 
 Cape of Good Hope ; and a new way being thus found 
 out to the East Indies, the countries in that part of the 
 earth became more accurately and extensively known. 
 Another world was discovered by Columbus ; and, at 
 length, Magalhaens accomplished the arduous and hi- 
 therto unattempted task of sailing round the globe. At 
 different periods, he was succeeded by other circumna- 
 a igators, of whom it is no part of the present narratn e 
 to give an account. 
 
10 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 The spirit of discovery, which was so vigorous during 
 the latter end of the fifteenth and through the whole of 
 the sixteenth century, began, soon after the commence- 
 ment of the seventeenth centun r , to decline. Great ua- 
 a igations were only occasionally undertaken, and more 
 from the immediate views of avarice or war, than from 
 any noble and generous principles. But of late years 
 they have been revived, with the enlarged and bene- 
 volent design of promoting the happiness of the human 
 species. 
 
 A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of 
 George the Second, during which two voyages were 
 performed ; the first under the command of Captain 
 Middleton, and the next under the direction of Captains 
 Smith and More, in order to discover a north-west pas- 
 sage, through Hudson's Bay. It Avas reserved, how- 
 ever, for the glory of the present reign to carry the 
 spirit of discovery to its height, and to conduct it on the 
 noblest principles ; not for the purposes of covetousness 
 or ambition ; not to plunder or destroy the inhabitants 
 of newly-explored countries ; but to improve their con- 
 dition, to instruct them in the arts of life, and to extend 
 the boundaries of science. 
 
 No sooner was peace restored, in 1763, than these 
 laudable designs engaged his majesty's patronage ; and 
 two voyages round tUe world had been undertaken, 
 before Mr. Cook set out on his first command. The 
 conductors of these voyages were the Captains Byron, 
 Wallis, and Carteret*, by whom several discoveries 
 were made, which contributed, in no small degree, to 
 increase the knowledge of geography and navigation. 
 Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent 
 out appears to have had a principal reference to a par- 
 ticular object in the South Atlantic, the direct track 
 they were obliged to hold, on their way homeward by 
 the East Indies, prevented them from doing so much as 
 
 * The Captains Wallis and Carteret went out together upon 
 the same expedition ; but the vessels they commanded having 
 accidentally parted company, they proceeded and returned by 
 a different route. Hence their voyages are distinctly related 
 by Dr. Hawkesworth. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 11 
 
 might otherwise have been expected towards giving the 
 world a complete view of that immense expanse of ocean, 
 which the South Pacific comprehends. 
 
 Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had re- 
 turned to Great Britain, another voyage was resolved 
 upon, for which the improvement of astronomical science 
 afforded the immediate occasion. It having been cal- 
 culated by astronomers, that a transit of Venus over the 
 Sun's disk would happen in 1769, it was judged, that 
 the best place for observing it would be in some part 
 of the South Sea, either at the Marquesas, or at one of 
 those islands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, 
 Rotterdam, and Middleburg, and which are now better 
 known under the appellation of the Friendly Islands. 
 This being a matter of eminent consequence in astro- 
 nomy, and which excited the attention of foreign nations 
 as well as of our own, the affair was taken tip by the 
 Royal Society, with the zeal which has always been 
 displayed by that learned body for the advancement of 
 every branch of philosophical science. Accordingly, 
 a long memorial was addressed to his majesty, dated 
 February the loth, 1768, representing the great im- 
 portance of the object, together with the regard which 
 had been paid to it by the principal courts of Europe ; 
 and entreating, among other things, that a vessel might 
 be ordered, at the expense of government, for the con- 
 vey ance of suitable persons, to make the observation of 
 the transit of Venus, at one of the places before men- 
 tioned. This memorial having been laid before the 
 king by the Earl of Shelburne (now the Marquis of 
 Lansdown), one of the principal secretaries of state, his 
 majesty graciously signified his pleasure to the lords 
 commissioners of the Admiralty, that the}" should provide 
 a ship for carrving over such observers as the Royal 
 Society should judge proper to send to the South Seas; 
 and, on the 3d of April, Mr. Stephens informed the so- 
 ciety that a bark had been taken up for the purpose. 
 
 The gentleman who had originally been fixed upon 
 to take the direction of the expedition, was Alexander 
 Dalrymple, Esq. an eminent member of the Royal So- 
 ciety, and who, besides possessing an accurate knowledge 
 
12 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 of astronomy, had distinguished himself by his inquiries 
 into the geography of the Southern Oceans, and by the 
 collection he had published of several voyages to those 
 parts of the world. Mr. Dalrvmple being sensible of 
 the difficulty, or rather of the impossibility, of carrying 
 a ship through unknown seas, the crew of which were 
 not subject to the military discipline of his majesty's 
 navy, he made it the condition of his going, that he 
 should have a brevet commission, as captain of the ves- 
 sel, in the same manner as such a commission had been 
 granted to Dr. Halley, in his voyage of discovery. To 
 this demand Sir Edward Hawke, who was then" at the 
 head of the Admiralty, and who possessed more of the 
 spirit of his profession than either of education or science, 
 absolutely refused to accede. He said, at the board, 
 that his conscience would not allow him to trust any 
 ship of his majesty's to a person who had not regularly 
 been bred a seaman. On being further pressed upon 
 the subject, Sir Edward declared, that he would suffer 
 his right hand to be cut off, before he would sign any 
 such commission. In this he was, in some degree, 
 justified by the mutinous behaviour of Halley's crew, 
 who refused to acknowledge the legal authority of 
 their commander, and involved him in a dispute which 
 was attended with pernicious consequences. Mr. Dal- 
 rymple, on the other hand, was equally- steady in re- 
 quiring a compliance with the terms he had proposed. 
 Such was the state of things, when Mr. Stephens, secre- 
 tary to the Admiralty, whose discrimination of the nu- 
 merous characters, with which by his station he is con- 
 versant, reflects as much credit on his understanding, 
 as his upright and able conduct does on the office he 
 has filled for so many years, and under so many ad- 
 ministrations, with honour to himself and advantage to 
 the public, observed to the board, that since Sir Edward 
 Hawke and Mr. Dalrvmple were equally inflexible, no 
 method remained but that of finding out another person 
 capable of the service. He knew, he said, a Mr. Cook, 
 who had been employed as marine surveyor of New- 
 foundland, who had been regularly educated in the navy, 
 in which he was a master, and whom he judged to be 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 13 
 
 fullv qualified for the direction of the present under- 
 taking. Mr. Stephens, at the same time, recommended 
 it to the board, to take the opinion of Sir Hugh Palliser, 
 who had latelv been governor of Newfoundland, and 
 was intimatelv acquainted with Cook's character. Sir 
 Hugh rejoiced in the opportunity of serving his friend. 
 He strengthened Mr. Stephens's recommendation to 
 the utmost of his power ; and added many things in 
 Mr. Cook's favour, arising from the particular know- 
 ledge which he had of his abilities and merit. Accord- 
 ingly, Mr. Cook was appointed to the command of the 
 expedition bv the lords of the Admiralty ; and, on this 
 occasion, he was promoted to the rank of a lieutenant 
 in the roval navv, his commission bearing date on the 
 25th of May, 1768. 
 
 AYhen the appointment had taken place, the first ob- 
 ject was to provide a vessel adapted to the purposes of 
 the voyage. This business was committed to Sir Hugh 
 Palliser ; who took Lieutenant Cook to his assistance, 
 and thev examined together a great number of the ships, 
 which then lay in the river Thames. At length, they 
 fixed upon one, of three hundred and seventy tons, to 
 which was given the name of the Endeavour. 
 
 While preparations were making for Lieutenant 
 Cook's expedition, Captain Wallis returned from his 
 voyage round the world. The Earl of Morton, presi- 
 dent of the Royal Society, had recommended it to this 
 gentleman, on his going out, to fix upon a proper place 
 for observing the transit of Venus. He kept, accord- 
 ingly, the object in view ; and having discovered, in 
 the course of his enterprise, an island, called by him 
 George's Island, but which has since been found to 
 bear the name of Otaheite, he judged that Port Royal 
 harbour in this island would afford an eligible situation 
 for the purpose. Having, immediately on his return to 
 England, signified his opinion to the Earl of Morton, 
 the captain's idea was adopted by the society, and an 
 answer conformable to it was sent to the commissioners 
 of the Admiralty, who had applied for directions to what 
 place the observers should be sent. 
 
 Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had Ions; been 
 
14 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 assistant to Dr. Bradley at the royal observatory at 
 Greenwich, was united with Lieutenant Cook in con- 
 ducting the astronomical part of the voyage ; and, soon 
 after their appointment, they received ample instruc- 
 tions, from the council of the Royal Society, with regard 
 to the method of carrying on their inquiries. The lieu- 
 tenant was also accompanied by Joseph Banks, Esq. 
 (now Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.) and Dr. Solander, who, 
 in the prime of life, and the first of them at great expense 
 to himself, quitted all the gratifications of polished 
 society, and engaged in a very tedious, fatiguing, and 
 hazardous navigation, with the laudable views of ac- 
 quiring knowledge in general, of promoting natural 
 knowledge in particular, and of contributing something 
 to the improvement and the happiness of the rude in- 
 habitants of the earth. 
 
 Though it was the principal, it was not the sole object 
 of Lieutenant Cook's voyage to observe the transit of 
 Venus. A more accurate examination of the Pacific 
 Ocean was committed to him, although in subserviency 
 to his main design ; and, when his chief business was 
 accomplished, he was directed to proceed in making 
 further discoveries in the great Southern Seas. 
 
 The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship consisted 
 of eighty-four persons besides the commander. Her 
 victualling was for eighteen months; and there was 
 put on board of her ten carriage and ten swivel guns, 
 together with an ample store of ammunition and other 
 necessaries. 
 
 On the 25th of May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was ap- 
 pointed, by the lords of the Admiralty, to the command 
 of the Endeavour, in consequence of which he went on 
 board on the 27th, and took charge of the ship. She 
 then lay in the bason in Deptford-yard, where she con- 
 tinued to lie till she was completely fitted for sea. On 
 the 30th of July she sailed down the river, and on the 
 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound. The 
 wind becoming fair on the 26th of that month, our na- 
 vigators got under sail, and on the 13th of September 
 anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island of Madeira. 
 
 While Lieutenant Cook and his company were in 
 
FIRST VOYAGE, 15 
 
 this island, they were treated with the utmost kindness 
 and liberality by Mr. Cheap, the English consul there, 
 and one of the most considerable merchants in the town 
 of Funchiale. He insisted upon their taking possession 
 of his house, and furnished them with every possible 
 accommodation during their stay at Madeira. They 
 received, likewise, great marks of attention and civility 
 from Dr. Thomas Heberden, the principal physician of 
 the island, and brother to the excellent and learned Dr. 
 William Heberden, of London. Dr. Thomas Heberden 
 afforded all the assistance in his power to Mr. Banks 
 and Dr. Solander in their botanical incpiiries. 
 
 It was not solely from the English that the lieutenant 
 and his friends experienced a kind reception. The 
 fathers of the Franciscan convent displayed a liberalitv 
 of sentiment towards them, which might not have been 
 expected from Portuguese friars ; and, in a visit which 
 they paid to a convent of nuns, the ladies expressed a 
 particular pleasure in seeing them. At this visit the 
 good nuns gave an amusing proof of the progress they 
 had made in the cultivation of their understandings. 
 Having heard that there were great philosophers among 
 the English gentlemen, they asked them a variety of 
 questions ; one of which was, when it would thunder ; 
 and another, whether a spring of fresh water, which 
 was much wanted, was any where to be found within 
 the walls of the convent. Eminent as our philosophers 
 were, they were puzzled by these questions. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook, having laid in a fresh stock of beef, 
 water, and wine, set sail from the island of Madeira, in 
 the night of the 18th of September, and proceeded on 
 his voyage. By the 7th of November several articles 
 of the ship's provisions began to fall short ; for which 
 reason, the lieutenant determined to put into Rio de 
 Janeiro. This place he preferred to any other port in 
 Brazil or to Falkland's Islands, because he could there 
 be better supplied with what he wanted, and had no 
 doubt of meeting with a friendly reception. 
 
 During the run between Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, 
 Lieutenant Cook and the gentlemen in the Endeavour 
 had an opportunity of determining a philosophical ques- 
 
IG CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 tion. On the evening of the 29th of October, they ob- 
 served that luminous appearance of the sea which hath 
 so often been mentioned by navigators, and which has 
 been ascribed to such a variety of causes. Flashes of 
 light appeared to be emitted, exactly resembling those 
 of lightning, though without being so considerable ; and 
 such was the frequency of them, tbat sometimes eight 
 or ten were visible almost at the same moment. It was 
 the opinion of Mr. Cook and the other gentlemen, that 
 these flashes proceeded from some luminous animal ; 
 and their opinion was confirmed by experiment. 
 
 At Rio de Janeiro, in the port of which Lieutenant 
 Cook came to an anchor on the 13th of November, he 
 did not meet with the polite reception that, perhaps, he 
 had too sanguiuelv expected. His stay was spent in 
 continual altercations with the viceroy, who appeared 
 not a little jealous of the designs of the English : nor 
 were all the attempts of the lieutenant to set the matter 
 right, capable of producing any effect. The viceroy 
 was by no means distinguished either by his knowledge 
 or his love of science ; and the grand object of Mr. 
 Cook's expedition was quite beyond his comprehension. 
 When he was told that the English were bound to the 
 southward, by the order of his Britannic majesty, to 
 observe a transit of the planet Venus over the Sun, an 
 astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navi- 
 gation, he could form no other conception of the matter, 
 than that it was the passing of the North star through 
 the South Pole. 
 
 During the whole of the contest with the a iceroy, 
 Lieutenant Cook behaved with equal spirit and discre- 
 tion. A supplv of water and other necessaries could 
 not be refused him, and these were gotten on board by 
 the 1st of December. On that day the lieutenant sent 
 to the viceroy for a pilot to carry the Endeavour to 
 sea ; but the wind preventing the ship from getting out, 
 she was obliged to continue some time longer in the 
 harbour. A Spanish packet hai ing arrived at Rio de 
 Janeiro on the 2d of December, with dispatches from 
 Buenos Ayres for Spain, the commander, Don Antonio 
 de Monte Negro y Velasco, offered, with great polite- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 17 
 
 ness, to convey the letters of the English to Europe. 
 This favour Lieutenant Cook accepted, and gave Don 
 Antonio a packet for the secretary of the Admiralty, 
 containing copies of all the papers that had passed be- 
 tween himself and the Viceroy. He left, also, duplicates 
 with the viceroy, that he might forward them, if he 
 thought proper, to Lisbon. 
 
 On the 5th of December, it being a dead cabn, our 
 navigators weighed anchor, and towed down the Bay ; 
 but, to their great astonishment, two shot were fired at 
 them, when they had gotten abreast of Santa Cruz, the 
 principal fortification of the harbour. Lieutenant Cook 
 immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to demand 
 the reason of this conduct ; the answer to which was, 
 that the commandant had received no order from the 
 viceroy to let the ship pass ; and that, without such an 
 order, no vessel Avas ever suffered to go below the fort. 
 It now became necessary to send to the viceroy, to in- 
 quire why the order had not been given ; and his be- 
 haviour appeared the more extraordinary, as notice had 
 been transmitted to him of the departure of the English, 
 and he had thought proper to write a polite letter to 
 Mr. Cook, wishing him a good voyage. The lieutenant's 
 messenger soon returned, with the information that the 
 order had been written several days, and that its not 
 having been sent had arisen from some unaccountable 
 negligence. It Avas not till the 7th of December that 
 the Endeavour got under sail. 
 
 In the account which Lieutenant Cook has giA r en of 
 Rio de Janeiro, and the country round it, one circum- 
 stance is recorded, which cannot be otherwise than very 
 painful to humanity. It is the horrid expense of life at 
 which the gold mines are wrought. No less than forty 
 thousand Negroes are annually imported for this pur- 
 pose, on the king of Portugal's account ; and the Eng- 
 lish Avere credibly informed, that, in the year 1766, this 
 number fell so short, that twenty thousand more AVere 
 drafted from the town of Rio. 
 
 From Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook pursued his 
 voyage, and, on the 14th of January, 1769, entered the 
 Strait of Le Maire, at which time the tide drove the. 
 
 vol. i. c 
 
IS CAPTAIN COOK B 
 
 ship out a "ith so much violence, and raised such a sea 
 off Cape St. Diego, that she frequently pitched, so that 
 the bowsprit was under water. On the nc\t day, the 
 lieutenant anchored, first before a small cove, which 
 was understood to be Port Maurice, and afterwards in 
 the Bay of Good Success. AVhile the Endeavour was 
 in this station, happened the memorable aihciiture of 
 Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, 
 and Mr. Green the astronomer, together with their at- 
 tendants and servants, ami two seamen, in ascending: a 
 mountain to search for plants. In this expedition they 
 were all of them exposed to the utmost extremity of 
 danger and of cold : Dr. Solander was seized with a 
 torpor which had nearly proi ed fatal to his life : and 
 two black servants actually died. When the gentlemen 
 had, at length, ou the second day of their adventure, 
 gotten back to the ship, they congratulated each other 
 on their safety, with a joy that can only be felt by those 
 who have experienced equal perils ; and Mr. Cook was 
 relieved from a very painful anxiety. It was a dreadful 
 testimony of the se\erity of the climate, that this event 
 took place when it was the midst of summer in that part 
 of the world, and at the close of a day. the beginning 
 of which was as mild and warm, as the month of May 
 usually is in England. 
 
 In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieu- 
 tenant Cook and his ingenious associates had au oppor- 
 tunitv of gaining a considerable degree of acquaintance 
 with the inhabitants of the adjoining country. Here 
 it was that they saw human nature in its lowest form. 
 The natives appeared to be the most destitute and for- 
 lorn, as well as the most stupid, of the children of men. 
 Their lives are spent in wandering about the dreary 
 wastes that surround them : and their dwellings are no 
 other than wretched hovels of sticks aud grass, which 
 not onlv admit the wind, but the suow and the rain. 
 They are almost naked : and so devoid are they of every 
 com euience which is furnished by the rudest art, that 
 they hare not so much as an implement to dress their 
 food. Nevertheless, they seemed to have no wish un- 
 acquiring more than they possessed ; nor did any thing 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 19 
 
 that was offered them by the English appear acceptable 
 but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. A eon- 
 elusion is hence drawn by Dr. Hawkesworth, that these 
 people may be upon a level with ourselves, in respect 
 to the happiness they enjoy. This, however, is a posi- 
 tion which ought not hastily to be admitted. It is, 
 indeed, a beautiful circumstance, in the order of Divine 
 Providence, that the rudest inhabitants of the earth, 
 and those who are situated in the most unfavourable 
 climates, should not be sensible of their disadvantages. 
 But still it must be allowed, that their happiness is 
 greatly inferior, both in kind and degree, to that intel- 
 lectual, social, and moral felicity, which is capable of 
 being attained in a highly cultivated state of societv. 
 
 In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the determi- 
 nation of the best passage from the Atlantic is a point of 
 peculiar importance. It is well known what prodigious 
 difficulties were experienced in this respect by former 
 navigators. The doubling of Cape Horn, in particular, 
 was so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, it 
 was far more eligible to pass through the Strait of Ma- 
 gal haens. Lieutenant Cook hath fully ascertained the 
 erroneousness of this opinion. He was but three-and- 
 thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego, 
 from the east entrance of the Strait of Le Maire, till he 
 had advanced about twelve degrees to the westward, 
 and three and a half to the northward of the Strait of 
 Magalhaens ; and, during this time, the ship scarcely 
 received any- damage. Whereas, if he had come into 
 the Pacific Ocean by that passage, he would not have 
 been able to accomplish it in less than three months ; 
 besides which, his people would have been fatigued, 
 and the anchors, cables, sails, and rigging of the vessel 
 much injured. By the course he pursued, none of these 
 inconveniences were suffered. In short, Lieutenant 
 Cook, by his own example in doubling Cape Horn, by 
 his accurate ascertainment of the latitude and longitude 
 of the places he came to, and by his instructions to fu- 
 ture vovagers, performed the most essential services to 
 this part of navigation. 
 
 It was on the 2Gth of January that the Endeavour 
 
20 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 took her departure from Cape Horn ; and it appeared, 
 that, from that time to the 1st of March, during a run 
 of six hundred and sixty leagues, there was no current 
 which affected the ship. Hence it was highly probable 
 that our navigators had been near no land of anv con- 
 siderable extent, currents being always found when land 
 is not remote. 
 
 In the prosecution of Lieutenant Cook's voyage from 
 Cape Horn to Otaheite, several islands were discovered, 
 to which the names were given of Lagoon Island, 
 Thrump-cap, Bow Island, The Groups, Bird Island, and 
 Chain Island. It appeared that most of these islands 
 w ere inhabited ; and the verdure, and groves of palm- 
 trees, which were visible upon some of them, gave them 
 the aspect of a terrestrial paradise to men who, excepting 
 the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, had seen nothing 
 for a long time but sky and water. 
 
 On the 11th of April, the Endeavour arrived in sight 
 of Otaheite, and on the 13th she came to an anchor in 
 Port Royal Bay, which is called Matavia by the natives. 
 As the stay of the English in the island was not likely 
 to be very short, and much depended on the manner in 
 which traffic should be carried on with the inhabitants, 
 Lieutenant Cook, with great good sense and humanitv, 
 drew up a set of regulations for the behaviour of his 
 people, and gave it in command, that they should punc- 
 tually be observed*. 
 
 One of the first things that occupied the lieutenant's 
 attention, after his arrival at Otaheite, was to prepare 
 for the executiou of his grand commission. For this 
 purpose, as, in an excursion to the westward, he had 
 
 * The rules were as follow: " 1. To endeavour, by every 
 fair means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives: and to 
 treat them with all imaginable humanity. 2. A proper per- 
 son or persons will be appointed to trade with the natives for 
 all manner of provisions, fruit, and other productions of the 
 earth ; and no officer or seaman, or other person belonging to 
 the ship, excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade, or 
 offer to trade, for any sort of provision, fruit, or other pro- 
 ductions of the earth, unless they have leave so to do. 3. Every 
 person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly 
 to attend to the same ; and if by any neglect he loseth any of 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 21 
 
 not found any more convenient harbour than that in 
 which the Endear oitr lay, he determined to go on shore 
 and fix upon some spot, commanded by the guns of the 
 ship, where he might throw up a small fort for defence, 
 and set every thins: readv for making the astronomical 
 observation. Accordingly, he took a party of men, and 
 landed, being accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, 
 and Mr. Green. They soon fixed upon a place very 
 proper for their design, and which was at a considera- 
 ble distance from any habitation of the natives. While 
 the gentlemen were marking out the ground which they 
 intended to occupy, and seeing a small tent erected, 
 that belonged to Mr. Banks, a great number of the peo- 
 ple of the country gathered gradually around them, but 
 with no hostile appearance, as there was not among the 
 Indians a single weapon of any kind. Mr. Cook, how- 
 ver, intimated that none of them were to come within 
 the line he had drawn, excepting one, who appeared to 
 be a chief, and Owhaw, a native who had attached him- 
 self to the English, both in Captain Wallis's expedition 
 and in the present voyage. The lieutenant endeavoured 
 to make these two persons understand, that the ground, 
 which had been marked out, was only wanted to sleep 
 upon for a certain number of nights, and that then it 
 would be quitted. Whether his meaning was compre- 
 hended or not, he could not certainly determine ; but 
 the people behaved with a deference and respect that 
 could scarcely have been expected, and which were 
 highly pleasing. They sat down without the circle, 
 peaceably and uninterruptedly attending to the pro- 
 gress of the business, which was upwards of two hours 
 in completing. 
 
 his arms, or working tools, or suffers them to be stolen, the 
 full value thereof will be charged against his pay, according 
 to the custom of the navy in such cases, and he shall receive 
 such further punishment as the nature of the offence may de- 
 serve. 4. The same penalty will be inflicted on every person 
 who is found to embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any 
 part of the ship's stores, of what nature soever. 5. No sort 
 of iron, or any thing that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, 
 or other useful or necessary articles, are to be given in ex- 
 change for any thing but provision. J. COOK." 
 
22 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 This matter being finished, and Mr. Cook having ap- 
 pointed thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard 
 the tent, he and the gentlemen with him set out upon a 
 little excursion into the woods of the country. They 
 had not, however, gone far, before they were brought 
 back by a very disagreeable event. One of the Indians, 
 who remained about the tent after the lieutenant and 
 his friends had left it, watched an opportunity of taking 
 the sentry at unawares, and snatched away his musket. 
 Upon this, the petty officer who commanded the party, 
 and who was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. 
 With equal want of consideration, and, perhaps, with 
 equal inhumanity, the men immediately discharged 
 their pieces among the thickest of the flying crowd, 
 who consisted of more than a hundred. It being ob- 
 served, that the thief did not fall, he was pursued, and 
 shot dead. From subsequent information it happily 
 appeared, that none of the natives besides were either 
 killed or wounded. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook, who was highly displeased with 
 the conduct of the petty officer, used every method in 
 his power to dispel the terrors and apprehensions of 
 the Indians, but not immediately with effect. The next, 
 morning but few of the inhabitants were seen upon the 
 beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. W hat 
 added particularly to the regret of the English was, that 
 even Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his 
 attachment, and who the day before had been remark- 
 ably active in endeavouring to renew the peace which 
 had been broken, did not now make his appearance. In 
 the evening, however, when the lieutenant went on 
 shore with only a boat's crew and some of the gentle- 
 men, between thirty and fortv of the natives gathered 
 around them, and trafficked with them, in a friendly 
 manner, for cocoa nuts and other fruit. 
 
 On the 17th, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green set up a tent 
 on shore, and spent the night there, in order to observe 
 an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter; but they met 
 with a disappointment, in consequence of the weather's 
 becoming cloudy. The next day, the lieutenant, vvitli 
 as many of his people as could possibly be spared from 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 23 
 
 the ship, began to erect the fort. While the English 
 were employed in this business, many of the Indians 
 were so far from hindering, that they voluntarily as- 
 sisted them, and with great alacrity brought the pickets 
 and facines from the wood where they had heen cut. 
 Indeed, so scrupulous had Mr. Cook been of invading 
 their property, that every stake which was used was 
 purchased, and not a tree was cut down till their con- 
 sent had first been obtained. 
 
 On the 26th, the lieutenant mounted sis swivel guns 
 upon the fort ; on which occasion he saw, with concei-n, 
 that the natives were alarmed and terrified. Some 
 fishermen, who lived upon the point, removed to a 
 greater distance ; and Owhaw informed the English by 
 signs, of his expectation that in four days they would 
 fire their great guns. 
 
 The lieutenant, on the succeeding day, gave a striking 
 proof of his regard to justice, and of his care to pre- 
 serve the inhabitants from injury and violence, by the 
 punishment he inflicted on the butcher of the Endeavour, 
 who was accused of having threatened, or attempted, 
 the life of a woman, that was the wife of Tubourai 
 Tamaide, a chief, remarkable for his attachment to our 
 navigators. The butcher wanted to purchase of her a 
 stone hatchet for a nail. To this bargain she absolutely 
 refused to accede ; upon which the fellow catched up 
 the hatchet, and threw down the nail ; threatening, at 
 the same time, that if she made any resistance, he would 
 cut her throat with a reaping-hook which he had in his 
 hand. The charge was so fully proved in the presence 
 of Mr. Banks, and the butcher had so little to say in 
 exculpation of himself, that not the least doubt remained 
 of his guilt. The affair being reported by Mr. Banks 
 to lieutenant Cook, he took an opportunity, when the 
 chief and his women, with others of the natives, were 
 on board the ship, to call up the offender, and, after re- 
 capitulating the accusation and the proof of it, to give 
 orders for his immediate punishment. While the butcher 
 was stripped, and tied up to the rigging, the Indians 
 preserved a fixed attention, and waited for the event in 
 silent suspense. But as soon as the first stroke was 
 
24 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 • 
 inflicted, such was the humanity of these people, that 
 they interfered with great agitation, and earnestly en- 
 treated that the rest of the punishment might be remit- 
 ted. To this, however, the lieutenant, for various rea- 
 sons, could not grant his consent ; and, when thev found 
 that their intercessions were ineffectual, they manifested 
 their compassion by tears. 
 
 On the 1st of May, the observatory was set up, and 
 the astronomical quadrant, together with some other 
 instruments, was taken on shore. When, on the next 
 morning, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green landed for the pur- 
 pose of fixing the quadrant in a situation for use, to 
 their inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to 
 be found. It had been deposited in a tent reserved for 
 the lieutenant's use, where no one had slept ; it had 
 never been taken out of the packing case, and the whole 
 was of considerable weight : none of the other instru- 
 ments were missing ; and a sentinel had been posted the 
 whole night within five yards of the tent. These cir- 
 cumstances induced a suspicion that the robbery might 
 have been committed by some of our own people, who 
 having seen a deal box, and not knowing the contents, 
 might imagine that it contained nails, or other articles 
 for traffic with the natives. The most diligent search, 
 therefore, was made, and a large reward was offered for 
 the finding of the quadrant, but with no degree of suc- 
 cess. In this exigency, Mr. Banks was of eminent ser- 
 vice. As this gentleman had more influence over the 
 Indians than any other person on board the Endeavour, 
 and as there could now be little doubt of the quadrant's 
 having been conveyed awav by some of the natives, he 
 determined to go in search of it into the woods; and it 
 was recovered in consequence of his judicious and spi- 
 rited exertions. The pleasure with which it was brought 
 back was equal to the importance of the event ; for the 
 grand object of the voyage could not otherwise have 
 been accomplished. 
 
 Another embarrassment, though not of so serious a 
 nature, was occasioned, on the verv r same day, by one 
 of our officers having inadvertently taken into custody 
 Tootahah, a chief who had connected himself in the 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 25 
 
 most friendly manner with the English. Lientenant 
 Cook, who had given express orders that none of the 
 Indians should he confined, and who, therefore, was 
 equally surprised and concerned at this transaction, 
 instantly set Tootahah at liberty. So strongly had this 
 Indian been possessed with the notion that it was in- 
 tended to put him to death, that he could not be per- 
 suaded to the contrary till he was led out of the fort. 
 His joy at his deliverance was so great, that it dis- 
 played itself in a liberality which our people were very 
 unwilling to partake of, from a consciousness that on 
 this occasion they had no claim to the reception of fa- 
 vours. The impression, however, of the confinement 
 of the chief operated with such force upon the minds of 
 the natives, that few of them appeared ; and the mar- 
 ket was so ill supplied, that the English were in want 
 of necessaries. At length, by the prudent exertions of 
 Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, the 
 friendship of Tootahah was completely recovered, and 
 the reconciliation worked upon the Indians like a 
 charm ; for it was no sooner known, that he had gone 
 voluntarily on board the Endeavour, than bread-fruit, 
 cocoa nuts, and other provisions, were brought to the 
 fort in great plenty. 
 
 The lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen had 
 hitherto, with a laudable discretion, bartered only beads 
 for the articles of food now mentioned. But the mar- 
 ket becomiug slack, they were obliged for the first 
 time, on the 8th of May, to bring out their nails ; and 
 such was the effect of this new commodity, that one 
 of the smallest size, which was about four inches long, 
 procured twenty cocoa nuts, and bread-fruit in propor- 
 tion. 
 
 It was not till the 10th of the month that our voy- 
 agers learned, that the Indian name of the island was 
 Otaheite, by which name it hath since been always 
 distinguished. 
 
 On Sunday the 14th, an instance was exhibited of 
 the inattention of the natives to our modes of religion. 
 The lieutenant had directed, that divine service should 
 be performed at the fort; and he was desirous that 
 
20 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 some of the principal Indians should be present. Mr. 
 Bank's secured the attendance of Tubourai Tamaide and 
 his wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occasion to 
 some inquiries on their part, and to some instruction 
 in return. During the whole service, thev verv atten- 
 tively observed Mr. Banks's behaviour, and stood, sat, 
 or kneeled, as they saw him do ; and they appeared to 
 be sensible, that it was a serious and important employ- 
 ment in which the English were engaged. But when 
 the worship was ended, neither of them asked any 
 questions, nor would they attend to any explanations 
 which were attempted to be given of what had been 
 performed. 
 
 As the day approached for executing the grand pur- 
 pose of the voyage, Lieutenant Cook determined, in 
 consequence of some hints which he had received from 
 the Earl of Morton, to send out two parties, to observe 
 the transit of Venus from other situations. By this 
 means he hoped, that the success of the observation 
 would be secured, if there should happen to be any 
 failure at Otaheite. Accordingly, on Thursday the 1st 
 of June, he dispatched Mr. Gore in the long boat to 
 Eimeo, a neighbouring island, together with Mr. Monk- 
 house, and Mr. Sporing, a gentleman belonging to Mr. 
 Banks. They were furnished by Mr. Green with pro- 
 per instruments. Mr. Banks himself chose to go upon 
 this expedition, in which he was accompanied by Tu- 
 bourai Tamaide and Tomio, and by others of the natives. 
 Early the next morning, the lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks, 
 in the pinnace, with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Pickersgill, 
 and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, ordering 
 them to fix upon some convenient spot to the eastward, 
 at a distance from the principal observatory, where they 
 also might employ the instruments they were provided 
 with for observing the transit. 
 
 The anxiety for such weather as would be favourable 
 to the success of the experiment, was powerfully felt 
 by all the parties concerned. Thev could not sleep in 
 peace the preceding night : but their apprehensions 
 were happily removed bv the sun's rising, on the morn- 
 ing of the 3d of June, without a cloud. The. weather 
 
FIRST VOYAG'c. 27 
 
 continued with equal clearness through the whole of 
 the day; so that the observation was successfully made 
 in every quarter. At the fort, where Lieutenant Cook, 
 Mr. Green, and Dr. Solander were stationed, the whole 
 passage of the planet Venus over the suns disk was ob- 
 served with great advantage. The magnifying power 
 of Dr. Solander's telescope was superior to that of those 
 which belonged to the lieutenant and to Mr. Green. 
 They all saw an atmosphere or dusky cloud round the 
 body of the planet ; which much disturbed the times of 
 the contact, and especially of the internal ones ; and, in 
 their accounts of these times, they differed from each 
 other in a greater degree than might have been ex- 
 pected. According to Mr. Green, 
 
 mi i r- Morning. 
 
 The first external contact, or first appear- h. min. sec. 
 
 ance of Venus on the sun, was .... 9 25 42 
 The first internal contact, or total im- 
 mersion, was 9 44 4 
 
 The second internal contact, or begin- A f ternoon - 
 
 ning of the emersion, was 3 14 8 
 
 The second external contact, or total 
 
 emersion, Avas 3 32 10 
 
 The latitude of the observatory was found to be 
 
 17° 29' 15" ; and the longitude Ul° 32' 30" west 
 
 of Greenwich. 
 
 A more particular account of this great astronomical 
 event, the providing for the accurate observation of 
 which reflects so much honour on his majesty's munifi- 
 cent patronage of science, may be seen in the sixty-first 
 volume of the Philosophical Transactions. 
 
 The pleasure which Lieutenant Cook and his friends 
 derived, from having thus successfully accomplished 
 the first grand object of the voyage, was not a little 
 abated by the conduct of some of the ship's company, 
 who, while the attention of the officers was engrossed 
 by the transit of Venus, broke into one of the store- 
 rooms, and stole a quantity of spike nails, amounting 
 to no less than a hundred weight. This was an evil of 
 a public and serious nature ; for these nails, if injudici- 
 
28 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 ously circulated among the Indians, would be produc- 
 tive of irreparable injury to the English, bv reducing' 
 the value of iron, their staple commodity. One of the 
 thieves, from whom only seven nails were recovered, 
 was detected ; but, though the punishment of two dozen 
 lashes was inflicted upon him, he would not impeach 
 any of his accomplices. 
 
 Upon account of the absence of the two parties who 
 had been sent out to observe the transit, the king's 
 birthday was celebrated on the 5th, instead of the 4th 
 of June ; and the festivity of the day must have been 
 greatly heightened by the happy success with which his 
 majesty's liberality had been crowned. 
 
 On the 12th, Lieutenant Cook was again reduced to 
 the necessitv of exercising the severity of discipline. 
 Complaint having been made to him, by certain of the 
 natives, that two of the seamen had taken from them 
 several bows and arrows, and some strings of platted 
 hair, and the charge being fully supported, he punished 
 each of the criminals with two dozen of lashes. 
 
 On the same day it was discovered, that Otaheite, 
 like other couutries in a certain period of society, has 
 its bards and its minstrels. Mr. Banks, in his morn- 
 ing's walk, had met with a number of natives, who ap- 
 peared, upon inquiry, to be travelling musicians; and, 
 having learned where they were to be at night, all the 
 gentlemen of the Endeavour repaired to the place. The 
 band consisted of two flutes and three drums ; and the 
 drummers accompanied the music with their voices. To 
 the surprise of the English gentlemen, they found that 
 themseh es were generally the subject of the song, which 
 was unpremeditated. These minstrels were continually 
 going about from place to place; and they Avere re- 
 warded, by the master of the house and the audience, 
 with such things as they wanted. 
 
 The repeated thefts which were committed by the 
 inhabitants of Otaheite brought our vovajrers into (re- 
 quent difficulties, and it required all the wisdom of 
 Lieutenant Cook to conduct himself in a proper man- 
 ner. His sentiments on the subject displayed the libe- 
 rality of his mind. He thought it of consequence to 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 29 
 
 put an end, if possible, to thievish practices at once, 
 by doing something that should engage the natives in 
 general to prevent them, from a regard to their com • 
 mon interest. Strict orders had been given by him, 
 that they should not be fired upon, even when they 
 were detected in attempting to steal any of the English 
 property. For this the lieutenant had many reasons. 
 The common sentinels were in no degree fit to be en- 
 trusted with a power of life and death; neither did 
 Mr. Cook think that the thefts committed by the Ota- 
 heitans deserved so severe a punishment. They were 
 not born under the law of England ; nor was it one 
 of the conditions under which they claimed the be- 
 nefits of civil society, that their lives should be for- 
 feited, unless they abstained from theft. As the lieu- 
 tenant was not willing that the natives should be ex- 
 posed to fire-arms loaded with shot, neither did he ap- 
 prove of firing only with powder, which, if repeatedly 
 found to be harmless, would at length be despised. At 
 a time when a considerable robbery had been com- 
 mitted, an accident furnished him with what he hoped 
 would be a happy expedient for preventing future 
 attempts of the same kind. Above twenty of the sail- 
 ing canoes of the inhabitants came in with a supply of 
 fish. Upon these Lieutenant Cook immediately seized, 
 and, having brought them into the river behind the 
 fort, gave notice, that unless the things which had 
 been stolen were returned, the canoes should be burnt. 
 This menace, without designing to put it into execu- 
 tion, he ventured to publish, from a full conviction 
 that, as restitution was thus made a common cause, 
 the stolen goods would all of them speedily be brought 
 back. In this, however, he was mistaken. An iron 
 coal-rake, indeed, was restored ; upon which great so- 
 licitation was made for the release of the canoes; but 
 he still insisted on his original condition. When the 
 next day came, he was much surprised to find that 
 nothing further had been returned ; and, as the people 
 were in the utmost distress for the fish, which would in 
 a short time be spoiled, he was reduced to the disagree- 
 able alternative, either of releasing the canoes, con- 
 
30 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 trary to what he had solemnly and publicly declared, 
 or of detaining them, to the great damage of those who 
 were innocent. As a temporary expedient, he per- 
 mitted the natives to take the fish, but still detained 
 the canoes. So far was this measure from being at- 
 tended with advantage, that it was productive of new 
 confusion and injury; for as it was not easv at ouce to 
 distinguish to what particular persons the several lots 
 of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered by those 
 who had no right to any part of their cargo. At length, 
 most pressing instances being still made for the re- 
 storation of the canoes, and Lieutenant Cook having 
 reason to believe, either that the things for which he 
 detained them were not in the island, or that those 
 who suffered by their detention were absolutely inca- 
 pable of prevailing upon the thieves to relinquish their 
 booty, he determined, though not immediately, to com- 
 ply with the solicitations of the natives. Our com- 
 mander was, however, not a little mortified at the ill 
 success of his project. . 
 
 About the same time, another accident occurred, 
 which, notwithstanding all the caution of our principal 
 voyagers, was very near embroiling them with the 
 Indians. The lieutenant having sent a boat on shore 
 to get ballast for the ship, the officer, not immediately 
 finding stones suitable to the purpose, began to pull 
 down some part of an enclosure in which the inhabi- 
 tants had deposited the bones of their dead. This ac- 
 tion a number of the natives violently opposed ; and a 
 messenger came down to the tents, to acquaint the 
 gentlemen that no such thing would be suffered. 3Ir. 
 Banks directly repaired to the place, and soon put an 
 amicable end to the contest, by sending the boat's 
 crew to the river, where a sufficient quantity of stones 
 might be gathered without a possibility of giving of- 
 fence. These Indians appeared to be much more 
 alarmed at any injur}- which they apprehended to be 
 done to the dead than to the living. This was the 
 only measure in which they ventured to oppose the 
 English : and the onlv insult that was ever offered to 
 any individual belonging to the Endeavour was upon a 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 31 
 
 similar occasion. It should undoubtedly be the con- 
 cern of all voyagers, to abstain from wantonly offend- 
 ing the religious prejudices of the people among whom 
 they come. 
 
 To extend the knowledge of navigation and the 
 sphere of discovery, objects which we need not say 
 that Lieutenant Cook kept always steadily in view, 
 he set out, in the pinnace, on the 26th of June, 
 accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the 
 island ; during which the lieutenant and his companions 
 were thrown iuto great alarm, by the apprehended loss 
 of the boat. By this expedition Mr. Cook obtained 
 an acquaintance with the several districts of Otaheite, 
 the chiefs who presided over them, and a variety of 
 curious circumstances respecting the manners and cus- 
 toms of the inhabitants. On the 1st of July, he got 
 back to the fort at Matavai, having found the circuit 
 of the island, including the two peninsulas of which it 
 consisted, to be about thirty leagues. 
 
 The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by 
 an expedition of Mr. Banks's to trace the river up 
 the valley from which it issues, and examine how far 
 its banks were inhabited. During this excursion he 
 discerned many traces of subterraneous fire. The 
 stoues, like those of Madeira, displayed evident tokens 
 of having been burnt ; and the very clay upon the hills 
 had the same appearance. 
 
 Another valuable employment of Mr. Banks was the 
 planting of a great quantity of the seeds of water- 
 melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and 
 trees, which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. For 
 these he pi-epared ground on each side of the fort, and 
 selected as many varieties of soil as could be found. 
 He gave, also, liberally of these seeds to the natives, 
 and planted manv of them in the woods. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his de- 
 parture. On the 7th of July, the carpenters were em- 
 ployed in taking down the gates and palisadoes of the 
 fortification ; and it was continued to be dismantled 
 during the two following days. Our commander and 
 the rest of the gentlemen were in hopes that they 
 
32 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 should quit Otaheite without giving or receiving any 
 further offence ; but in this respect they were unfortu- 
 nately disappointed. The lieutenant had prudently 
 overlooked a dispute of a smaller nature between a 
 couple of foreign seamen and some of the Indians, 
 when he was immediately involved in a quarrel, which 
 he greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out 
 of his power to avoid. In the middle of the night, be- 
 tween the Sth and the 9th, Clement Webb and Samuel 
 Gibson, two of the marines, went privately from the 
 fort. As (hey were not to be found in the morning, 
 Mr. Cook was apprehensive that they intended to stay 
 behind ; but, being unwilling to endanger the harmony 
 and goodwill which at present subsisted between our 
 people and the natives, he determined to wait a day for 
 the chance of the men's return. As, to the great con- 
 cern of the lieuteuaut, the marines were not come back 
 on the morning of the tenth, inquiry was made after 
 them of the Indians, who acknowledged that each of 
 them had taken a wife, and had resolved to become 
 inhabitants of the countrv. After some deliberation, 
 two of the natives undertook to conduct such persons 
 to the place of the deserters' retreat, as Mr. Cook 
 should think proper to send ; and, accordingly, he dis- 
 patched with the guides a petty officer and the corporal 
 of the marines. As it was of the utmost importance to 
 recover the men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated 
 to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with the 
 women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, 
 and Oberea, that thev would not be permitted to leave 
 it till the fugitives were returned; and the lieutenant 
 had the pleasure of observing, that they received the 
 intimation with very little indications of alarm, and 
 with assurances, that his people should be secured and 
 sent back as soon as possible. While this transaction 
 took place at the fort, our commander sent Mr. Hicks 
 in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship. 
 Mr. Cook had reason to expect, if the Indian guides 
 proved faithful, that the deserters, and those who went 
 in search of them, would return before the evening. 
 Being disappointed, his suspicious increased, and think- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. S3 
 
 ing it not safe, when the night approached, to let the 
 persons whom he had detained as hostages continue at 
 the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tomaide, Oberea, and 
 some others, to be taken on board the Endeavour; a 
 circumstance which excited so general an alarm, that 
 several of them, and especially the women, expressed 
 their apprehensions with great emotion and many tears. 
 Webb, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some 
 of the natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty 
 officer and corporal, would not be restored till Toota- 
 hah should be set at liberty. Lieutenant Cook now 
 found that the tables were turned upon him : but, 
 having proceeded too far to retreat, he immediately 
 dispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong 
 party of men, to rescue the prisoners. Tootahah was, 
 at the same time, informed, that it behoved him to 
 send some of his people with them, for the purpose of 
 affording them effectual assistance. With this injunc- 
 tion he readily complied, and the prisoners were re- 
 stored without the least opposition. On the next day 
 they were brought back to the ship, upon which the 
 chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus 
 ended an affair which had given the lieutenant a great 
 deal of trouble and concern. It appears, however, that 
 the measure which he pursued was the result of an 
 absolute necessity ; since it was only by the seizure of 
 the chiefs that he could have recovered his men. Love 
 was the seducer of the two marines. So strong was the 
 attachment which they had formed to a couple of girls, 
 that it was their design to conceal themselves till the 
 ship had sailed, and to take up their residence in the 
 island. 
 
 Tupia was one of the natives who had so particu- 
 larly devoted himself to the English, that he had 
 scarcely ever been absent from them during the whole 
 of their sta} r at Otaheite. He had been Oberea's first 
 minister, while she was in the height of her power ; 
 and he was also chief priest of the country. To his 
 knowledge of the religious principles and ceremonies 
 of the Indians, he added great experience in navigation, 
 and a particular acquaintance with the number anil 
 
 VOL. I. D 
 
34 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had 
 often expressed a desire to go with our navigators, 
 and when they were ready to depart, he came on 
 board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, and en- 
 treated that he might be permitted to proceed with 
 them on their voyage. To have such a person in the 
 Endeavour, was desirable on many accounts ; and, 
 therefore, Lieutenant Cook gladly acceded to his pro- 
 posal. 
 
 On the 13th of July, the English weighed anchor ; 
 and as soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on 
 board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and 
 silent sorrow, in which there was something very strik- 
 ing and tender. Tupia sustained himself in this scene 
 with a truly admirable firmness and resolution ; for, 
 though he wept, the effort he made to conceal his tears 
 concurred, with them, to do him honour. 
 
 The stay of our voyagers at Otaheite was three 
 months, the greater part of which time was spent in the 
 most cordial friendship with the inhabitants, and a per- 
 petual reciprocation of good offices. That any diffe- 
 rences should happen was greatly regretted on the 
 part of Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who were 
 studious to avoid them as much as possible. The prin- 
 cipal causes of them resulted from the peculiar situation 
 and circumstances of the English and the Indians, and 
 especially from the disposition of the latter to theft. 
 The effects of this disposition could not always be sub- 
 mitted to or prevented. It was happy, however, that 
 there was only a single instance in which the dif- 
 ferences that arose were attended with any fatal con- 
 sequence ; and by that accident the lieutenant was 
 instructed to take the most effectual measures for the 
 future prevention of similar events. He had nothing 
 so much at heart, as that in no case the intercourse of 
 his people with the natives should be productive of 
 bloodshed. 
 
 The traffic with the inhabitants for provisions and 
 refreshments, which was chiefly under the management 
 of Mr. Banks, was carried on with as much order as is 
 any well regulated market in Europe. Axes, hatchets. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 35 
 
 spikes, large nails, lookingglasses, knives, and beads, 
 were found to be the best articles to deal in ; and for 
 some of these, every thing which the inhabitants pos- 
 sessed might be procured. They were, indeed, fond of 
 fine linen cloth, whether white or printed ; but an axe 
 worth half a crown would fetch more than a piece of 
 cloth of the value of twentv shillings. 
 
 It would deviate from the plan of this narrative, to 
 enter into a minute account of the nature, productions, 
 inhabitants, customs, and manners of the countries 
 which were discovered or visited by Mr. Cook ; or to 
 give a particular detail of every nautical, geographical, 
 and astronomical observation. It will be sufficient here 
 to take notice, that our commander did not depart from 
 Otaheite without accumulating a store of information 
 and instruction for the enlargement of knowledge and 
 the benefit of navigation. 
 
 "YV hile the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage under 
 an easy sail, Tupia informed Lieutenant Cook, that, at 
 four of the neighbouring islands, which he distinguished 
 by the names of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bola- 
 bola, hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had 
 latterly been sparingly supplied at Otaheite, might be 
 procured in great plenty. The lieutenant, however, 
 was desirous of first examining an island that lav to the 
 northward, and was called Tethuroa. Accordingly, he 
 came near it; but having found it to be only a small 
 low island, and being told, at the same time, that it had 
 no settled inhabitants, he determined to drop any fur- 
 ther examination of it, and to go in search of Huaheine 
 and Ulietea, which were described to be well peopled, 
 and as large as Otaheite. 
 
 On the loth of July, the weather being hazy, with 
 light breezes and calms succeeding each other, so that 
 no land could be seen, and little way was made, Tupia 
 aflbrded an amusing proof, that, in the exercise of his 
 priestly character, he knew how to unite some degree 
 of art with his superstition. He often prayed for a 
 wind to his god Tane, and as often boasted of his suc- 
 cess. This, indeed, he took a most effectual method lo 
 secure ; for he never began his address to his divinity. 
 
36 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 till he perceived the breeze to be so near, that he knew 
 it must approach the ship before his supplication could 
 well be brought to a conclusion. 
 
 The Endeavour, on the 16th, being close in with the 
 north-west part of Huaheine, some canoes soon came 
 off, iu one of which was the king of the island and his 
 wife. At first the people seemed afraid ; but, upon 
 seeing Tupia, their apprehensions were in part dis- 
 persed, and, at length, in consequence of frequent and 
 earnestly repeated assurances of friendship, their ma- 
 jesties, and several others, ventured on board the ship. 
 Their astonishment at every thing which was shown 
 them was very great ; and yet their curiosity did not 
 extend to any objects but what were particularly 
 pointed out to their notice. When they had become 
 more familiar, Mr. Cook was given to understand, that 
 the king was called Oree, and that he proposed, as a 
 mark of amity, their making an exchange of their names. 
 To this our commander readily consented ; and, during 
 the remainder of their being together, the lieutenant 
 was Oree, and his majesty was Cookee. In the after- 
 noon, the Endeavour having come to an anchor, in a 
 small but excellent harbour on the west side of the 
 island, the name of which was Owharre, Mr. Cook, 
 accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monk- 
 house, Tupia, and the natives who had been on board 
 ever since the morning, immediately went on shore. 
 The English gentlemen repeated their excursions on 
 the two following days; in the course of which they 
 found that the people of Huaheine had a very near 
 resemblance to those of Otaheite, in person, dress, 
 language, and every other circumstance ; and that the 
 productions of the country were exactly similar. 
 
 In trafficking with our people, the inhabitants of 
 Huaheine displayed a caution and hesitation which 
 rendered the dealing with them slow and tedious. On 
 the 19th, therefore, the English were obliged to bring 
 out some hatchets, which it was at first hoped there 
 would be no occasion for, in an island that had never 
 before been visited by any European. These procured 
 three very large hogs ; and as it was proposed to sail 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 37 
 
 in the afternoon, Oree and several others came on board 
 to take their leave. To the king Mr. Cook gave a 
 small pewter plate, on which was stamped this inscrip- 
 tion ; " His Britannic Majesty's ship Endeavour, Lieu- 
 tenant James Cook, commander, 16th July, 1769, Hua- 
 heine." Among other presents made to Oree, were 
 some medals or counters, resembling the coin of Eng- 
 land, and struck in the year 1761 ; all of which, and 
 particularly the plate, he promised carefully and invio- 
 lably to preserve. This the lieutenant thought to be 
 as lasting a testimony as any he could well provide, 
 that the English had first discovered the island ; and 
 having dismissed his visitors, who were highly pleased 
 with the treatment they had met with, he sailed for 
 Ulietea, in a good harbour of which he anchored the 
 next day. 
 
 Tupia had expressed his apprehension, that our na- 
 vigators, if they landed upon the island, would be ex- 
 posed to the attacks of the men of Bolabola, whom he 
 represented as having lately conquered it, and of whom 
 he entertained a very formidable idea. This, however, 
 did not deter Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and 
 the other gentlemen, from going immediately on shore. 
 Tupia, who was of the party, introduced them, by per- 
 forming some ceremonies which he had practised be- 
 fore at Huaheine. After this, the lieutenant hoisted 
 an English jack, and, in the name of his Britannic ma- 
 jestv, took possession of Ulietea, and the three neigh- 
 bouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, all of 
 which were in sight. 
 
 On the 21st, the master was dispatched in the long- 
 boat, to examine the coast of the south part of the 
 island ; and one of the mates was sent in the yawl, to 
 sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay. At the 
 same time Lieutenant Cook went himself in the pin- 
 nace, to survey that part of Ulietea which lies to the 
 north. Mr. Banks, likewise, and the gentlemen again 
 went on shore, and employed themselves in trading 
 with the natives, and in examining the productions and 
 curiosities of the country ; but they saw nothing worthy 
 of notice, excepting some human jawbones, which, like 
 
38 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 scalps among the Indians of North America, were 
 trophies of war, and had prohably been hung up, bj the 
 warriors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest. 
 
 The weather being hazy on the 22d and 23d, with 
 strong gales, the lieutenant did not venture to put to 
 sea ; but, on the 24th, though the wind continued to 
 be variable, he got under sail, and plied to the north- 
 ward within the reef, purposing to go out at a wider 
 opening than that by which he had entered the harbour. 
 However, in doing this, he was in imminent danger of 
 striking on the rock. The master, who by his order 
 had kept continually sounding in the chains, suddenly 
 called out, " two fathom." Though our commander 
 knew that the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and 
 consequently that the shoal could not possibly be under 
 her keel, he was, nevertheless, justly alarmed. Happily, 
 the master was either mistaken, or the Endeavour went 
 along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the 
 neighbourhood of these islands, are as steep as a wall. 
 
 After a tedious navigation of some days, during 
 which several small islands were seen, and the long- 
 boat landed at Otaha, Lieutenant Cook returned to 
 Ulietea, but to a different part of it from that which he 
 had visited before. In a harbour, belonging to the 
 west side of the island, he came to an anchor on the 
 1st of August. This measure was necessary, in order 
 to stop a leak which the ship had sprung in the powder- 
 room, and to take in more ballast, as she was found too 
 light to carry sail upon a wind. The place where the 
 Endeavour was secured was conveniently situated for 
 the lieutenant's purpose of obtaining ballast and water. 
 
 Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the gentlemeu who 
 went on shore this day, spent their time much to their 
 satisfaction. The reception they met was respectful in 
 the highest degree, and the behaviour of the Indians to 
 the English indicated a fear of them, mixed with a con- 
 fidence that they had no propensity to commit any kind 
 of injury. In an intercourse which the lieutenant and 
 his friends carried on, for several days, with the inha- 
 bitants of this part of the island, it appeared that the 
 terrors which Tupia had expressed of the Bolabola 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 39 
 
 conquerors were wholly groundless. Even Opoonv, 
 the formidable king of Bolabola, treated our navigators 
 with respect. Being at Ulietea on the 5th of August, 
 he sent Mr. Cook a present of three hogs, some fowls, 
 and several pieces of cloth, of uncommon length, toge- 
 ther with a considerable quantity of plantains, cocoa- 
 nuts, and other refreshments. This present was ac- 
 companied with a message, that, on the next day, he 
 intended to pay our commander a visit. Accordingly, 
 on the 6th, the lieutenant and the rest of the gentle- 
 men all staid at home, in expectation of this important 
 visitor; who did not, however, make his appearance, 
 but sent three very pretty girls as his messengers, to 
 demand something in return for his present. In the 
 afternoon, as the great king would not go to the Eng- 
 lish, the English determined to go to the great king. 
 From the account which had been given of him, as lord 
 of the Bolabola men, who were the conquerors of 
 Ulietea, and the terror of all the other islands, Lieu- 
 tenant Cook and his companions expected to see a 
 young and vigorous chief, with an intelligent counte- 
 nance, and the marks of an enterprising spirit ; instead 
 of which, they found a feeble wretch, withered and 
 decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and 
 stupid, that he scarcely appeared to be possessed even 
 of a common degree of understanding. Otaha being 
 the principal place of Opoony's residence, he went with 
 our navigators to that island on the next day ; and they 
 were in hopes of deriving some advantage from his in- 
 fluence, in obtaining such provision as they wanted. In 
 this respect, however, they were disappointed ; for, 
 though they had presented him with an axe, as an in- 
 ducement to him to encourage his subjects in dealing 
 with them, they were obliged to leave him without 
 having procured a single article. 
 
 The time which the carpenters had taken up in stop- 
 ping the leak of the ship having detained our voyagers 
 longer at Ulietea than they would otherwise have staid, 
 Lieutenant Cook determined to give up the design of 
 going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared 
 to be difficult of access. The principal islands, about 
 
40 CAPTAIN COOK 5 
 
 which the English had now spent somewhat more than 
 three weeks, were six in number ; Ulietea, Otaha, 
 Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua. As they lie 
 contiguous to each other, the lieutenant gave them the 
 general appellation of the Society Islands ; but did not 
 think proper to distinguish them separately by any 
 other names than those by which they were called by 
 the natives. 
 
 On the 9th of August, the leak of the vessel having 
 been stopped, and the fresh stock that had been pur- 
 chased being brought on board, our commander took 
 the opportunity of a breeze which sprang up at east, 
 and sailed out of the harbour. As he was sailing away, 
 Tupia strongly urged him to fire a shot towards Bola- 
 bola ; and, though that island was at seven leagues dis- 
 tance, the lieutenant obliged him by complying with 
 his request. Tupia's views probably were, to display 
 a mark of his resentment, and to show the power of his 
 new allies. 
 
 Our voyagers pursued their course, without meeting 
 with any event worthy of notice, till the 13th, when 
 land was discovered, bearing south-east, and which 
 Tupia informed them to be an island called Oheteroa. 
 On the next day, Mr. Cook sent Mr. Gore, one of his 
 lieutenants, in the pinnace, with orders, that he should 
 endeavour to get on shore, and learn from the natives, 
 whether there was anchorage in a bay then in sight, 
 and what land lay further to the southward. Mr. Gore 
 was accompanied in this expedition by Mr. Banks, Dr. 
 Solander, and Tupia, who used every method, but in 
 vain, to conciliate the minds of the inhabitants, and to 
 engage them in a friendly intercourse. As, upon 
 making the circuit of the island, neither harbour nor 
 anchorage could be found upon it, and at the same 
 time, the disposition of the people was so hostile, that 
 landing would be rendered impracticable without 
 bloodshed, Mr. Cook determined, with equal wisdom 
 and humanity, not to attempt it, having no motive that 
 could justify the risk of life. 
 
 From Tupia our navigators learned, that there were 
 various islands lying at different distances and in dif- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 41 
 
 rrrent directions from Oheteroa, between the south and 
 the north-west ; and that to the north-east there was an 
 island called Manua, Bird Island. This he represented 
 as being at the distance of three day's sail ; but he 
 seemed most desirous that Lieutenant Cook should 
 proceed to the westward, and described several islands 
 in that situation, which he said he had \isited. It ap- 
 peared, from his description of them, that these were 
 probably Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, which were 
 discovered by Captain Wallis. The furthest island, 
 that Tupia knew of to the southward, lay, he said, at 
 the distance of about two days sail from Oheteroa, and 
 was called Montou. But he added, that his father had 
 informed him of there being islands still more to the 
 south. Upon the whole, our commander determined 
 to stand southward in search of a continent, and to lose 
 no time in attempting to discover any other islands, 
 than such as he might happen to fall in with during his 
 course. 
 
 On the 15th of August, our voyagers sailed from 
 Oheteroa ; and, on the 25th of the same month was 
 celebrated the anniversary of their departure from 
 England. The comet was seen on the 30th. It was 
 a little above the horizon, in the eastern part of the 
 heavens, at one in the morning ; and at about half an 
 hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail sub- 
 tended an angle of forty-two degrees. Tupia, who was 
 among others that observed the comet, instantly cried 
 out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of 
 Bolabola, thev would attack the inhabitants of Ulietea, 
 who would be obliged to endeavour to preserve their 
 lives by fleeing with the utmost precipitation to the 
 mountains. 
 
 On the 6th of October land was discovered, which 
 appeared to be large. When, on the next day, it was 
 more distinctly visible, it assumed a still larger ap- 
 pearance, and displayed four or five ranges of hills, 
 rising one over the other, above all which was a chain 
 of mountains of an enormous height. This land natu- 
 rally became the subject of much eager conversation ; 
 and the general opinion of the gentlemen on board the 
 
42 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 Endeavour was, that they had found the Terra australis 
 incognita. In fact, it was a part of New Zealand, where 
 the first adventures the English met with were wery 
 unpleasant, on account of the hostile disposition of the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook having anchored, on the 8th, in a 
 bay, at the entrance of a small river, went on shore in , 
 the evening, with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied 
 by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and attended with a 
 party of men. Being desirous of conversing with some 
 natives, whom he had observed on the opposite side of 
 the river from that on which he had landed, he ordered 
 the yawl in, to carry himself and his companions over, 
 and left the pinnace at the entrance. When thev came 
 near the place where the Indians were assembled, the 
 latter all ran away ; and the gentlemen, having left four 
 hoys to take care of the yawl, walked up to several 
 huts, which were about two or three hundred yards 
 from the water-side. They had not gone very far, when 
 four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the 
 woods, and, running up to attack the boat, would cer- 
 tainly have cut her off, if they had not been discovered 
 by the people in the pinnace, who called to the boys to 
 drop down the stream. The bovs instantly obeyed ; but 
 being closely pursued by the natives, the cockswain of 
 the pinnace, to whom the charge of the boats was com- 
 mitted, fired a musket over their heads. At this they 
 stopped and looked around them ; but their alarm 
 speedily subsiding, they brandished their lances in a 
 threatening manner, and in a few minutes renewed the 
 pursuit. The firing of a second musket over their 
 heads did not draw from them any kind of notice. At 
 last, one of them having lifted up his spear to dart it at 
 the boat, another piece was fired, by which he was shot 
 dead. At the fall of their associate, the three remain- 
 ing Indians stood for awhile motionless, and seemed 
 petrified with astonishment. No sooner had they re- 
 covered themselves, than they went back, dragging 
 after them the dead body, which, however, they were 
 obliged to leave, that it might not retard their flight. 
 Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who had straggled to 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 43 
 
 a little distance from each other, were drawn together 
 upon the report of the first musket, and returned 
 speedily to the boat, in which having- crossed the river, 
 they soon beheld the Indian lying dead upon the ground. 
 After their return to the ship, they could hear the 
 people on shore talking with great earnestness, and in 
 a very loud tone of voice. 
 
 Notwithstanding this disaster, the lieutenant, being 
 desirous of establishing an intercourse with the natives, 
 ordered, on the following day, three boats to be manned 
 with seamen and marines, and proceeded towards the 
 shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the 
 other gentlemen, and Tupia. About fifty of the inha- 
 bitants seemed to wait for their landing, having seated 
 themselves upon the ground, on the opposite side of 
 the river. This being regarded as a sign of fear, Mr. 
 Cook, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, 
 advanced towards them ; but they had not gone many 
 paces before all the Indians started up, and every man 
 produced either a long pike, or a small weapon of green 
 talk. Though Tupia called to them in the language of 
 Otaheite, they only answered by flourishing their wea- 
 pons, and making signs for the gentlemen to depart. 
 On a musket's being fired wide of them, they desisted 
 from their threats ; and our commander, who had pru- 
 dently retreated till the marines could be landed, again 
 advanced towards them, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, 
 and Tupia, to whom were now added Mr. Green and 
 Mr. Monkhouse. Tupia was a second time directed to 
 speak to them, and it was perceived with great pleasure 
 that he was perfectly understood, his and their language 
 being the same, excepting only in a diversity of dialect. 
 He informed them that our voyagers only wanted pro- 
 v ision and water, in exchange for iron, the properties 
 of which he explained as far as he was able. Though 
 the natives seemed willing to trade, Tupia was sensible, 
 during the course of his conversation with them, that 
 their intentions were unfriendly; and of this he re- 
 peatedly warned the English gentlemen. At length, 
 twenty or thirty of the Indians were induced to cross 
 the river, upon which presents were made them of iron 
 
44 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 and beads. On these they appeared to set little value, 
 and particularly on the iron, not having the least con- 
 ception of its use, so that nothing was obtained in return 
 excepting a few feathers. Their arms, indeed, they 
 offered to exchange for those of our voyagers, and this 
 being refused, they made various attempts to snatch 
 them out of their hands. Tupia was now instructed to 
 acquaiut the Indians, that our gentlemen would be 
 obliged to kill them, if they proceeded to any further 
 violence ; notwithstanding which, one of them, while 
 Mr. Green happened to turn about, seized his hanger, 
 and retired to a little distance, with a shout of exulta- 
 tion. The others, at the same time, began to be ex- 
 tremely insolent, and more of the natives were seen 
 coming to join them from the opposite side of the river. 
 It being, therefore, necessary to repress them, Mr. 
 Banks fired, with small shot, at the distance of about 
 fifteen yards, upon the man who had taken the hanger. 
 Though he was struck, he did not return the hanger, 
 but continued to wave it round his head, while he 
 slowly made his retreat. Mr. Monkhouse then fired at 
 him with ball, and he instantly dropped. So far, how- 
 ever, were the Indians from being sufficiently terrified, 
 that the main body of them, who, upon the first dis- 
 charge, had retired to a rock in the middle of the river, 
 began to return, and it was with no small difficulty that 
 Mr. Moukhouse secured the hanger. The whole num- 
 ber of them continuing to advance, three of the English 
 party discharged their pieces at them, loaded only with 
 small shot, upon which they swam back for the shore, 
 and it appeared, upon their landing, that two or three 
 of them were wounded. While they retired slowlv up 
 the country, Lieutenant Cook and his companions re- 
 embarked in their boats. 
 
 As the lieutenant had unhappily experienced that 
 nothing, at this place, could be done with these people, 
 and found that the water in the river was salt, he pro- 
 ceeded, in the boats, rouud the head of the bav, in 
 search of fresh water. Beside this, he had formed a 
 design of surprising some of the natives, and taking 
 them on board, that, by kind treatment and presents, 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 45 
 
 he might obtain their friendship, and render them the 
 instruments of establishing for him an amicable inter- 
 course with their countrymen. While, upon account 
 of a dangerous surf which every Avhere beat upon the 
 shore, the boats were prevented from landing, our 
 commander saw two canoes coming in from the sea, 
 one under sail, and the other worked with paddles. 
 This he thought to be a favourable opportunity for 
 executing his purpose. Accordingly, the boats were 
 disposed in such a manner as appeared most likely to 
 be successful in intercepting the canoes. Notwith- 
 standing this, the Indians, in the canoe which was pad- 
 dled, exerted themselves with so much vigour, at the 
 first apprehension of danger, that they escaped to the 
 nearest land. The other canoe sailed on without dis- 
 cerning the English, till she was in the midst of them ; 
 but no sooner had she discovered them, than the people 
 on board struck their sail, and plied their paddles so 
 briskly, as to outrun the boat by which they were pur- 
 sued. Being within hearing, Tupia called to them to 
 come alongside, with assurances, that they should not in 
 any degree be hurt or injured. They trusted, however, 
 more to their own paddles, than to Tupia's promises, 
 and continued to flee from our navigators with all their 
 power. Mr. Cook, as the least exceptionable expedient 
 of accomplishing bis design, ordered a musket to be 
 fired over their heads. This, he hoped, would either 
 make them surrender, or leap into the water, but it 
 produced a contrary effect. The Indians, who were 
 seven in number, immediately formed a resolution not 
 to fly, but to fight. When, therefore, the boat came up, 
 they began to attack with their paddles, and with stones 
 and other offensive weapons ; and they carried it on 
 with so much vigour and violence, that the English 
 thought themselves obliged to fire upon them in their 
 own defence ; the consequence of which was, that four 
 were unhappily killed. The other three, who were boys, 
 the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, 
 instantly leaped into the water, and endeavoured to make 
 their escape ; but being with some difficulty overpow-> 
 ered by our people, they were brought into the boat. 
 
i(» CAFTAN COOK'S 
 
 It is impossible to refloat upon this part of Lieutenant 
 Cook's conduct with anv degree of satisfaction. Be, 
 himself, upon a calm re\ lew, did not approve of it ; ami 
 he was sensible that it would be < ensured b\ the feel- 
 ings of nm reader of humanitv. It is probable that 
 his mind was so far irritated by the disagreeable pre- 
 ceding e\ents of this unfortunate day, and bv the une\- 
 pected violence of the Indian in the canoe, as to tone 
 somewhat of that self-possession, bv which his character 
 in g e n era l waseminenth distingnished. Candour, lu>w- 
 ever, requires that I should relate what he hath offered 
 in extenuation, not in defence, of the transaction ; and 
 this shall be done in his own words. " These people 
 certainly did not deserve death for not choosing to eon- 
 fide in ni\ promises, or not consenting to come on board 
 m\ boat, even if they had apprehended no danger. But 
 the nature of mv Bervice required ate to obtain a know- 
 ledge of their country, which I could no otherwise 
 effect, than by forcing mv wa\ into it in a hostile man- 
 ner, or gaining admission through the confidence ami 
 goodwill of the people. I had already tried the power 
 of presents without effect : and 1 was now prompted, 
 bv mv desire to avoid further hostilities, to <;et some of 
 them on board, as the only method left of convincing 
 them, that we intended them no harm, and had it in 
 our jiower to contribute to their gratification and con- 
 venience. Thus far my intentions certainlv were not 
 criminal; and though in the contest, which I had not 
 the least reason to expect, our victory night have been 
 complete without so great an expense of life; vet in 
 such situations, when the command to fire has bo ■ 
 given, no man can restrain its excess, or pit scribe its 
 effect." 
 
 Our voyag e ra were successful in conciliating the 
 minds of the three bovs, to which Tupia particularly 
 contributed. "\\ hen their fears were allayed, and their 
 cheerfulness returned, they same a son^ with a degree 
 of taste, that surprised the English gentlemen. The 
 tune, like those of our psalms, was solemn and slow, 
 containing many notes ami semitones. 
 
 Some further attempts were made to establish an in- 
 

 nun voyage. 47 
 
 bMBN \\ ith tin; natives, and Mr. Cook and his 
 lri< nds, on the IOUj, went M shore for that purpose ; 
 hut being ni—flW ffill in their endea\ours, they re- 
 solved to malum! lest their stay should emhroil them 
 in another quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their 
 lives. On the next day the lieutenant w e i g he d anchor, 
 and stood a\va\ from this unfortunate and inhospitable 
 place. As it had not afforded a single article that was 
 muted excepting wood, he gave it the name of Poverty 
 Bay. B\ the inhabitants it if called Taoneroa, or Long 
 Sand. I shall not regularly pursue the course of our 
 commander round New Zealand. In this course he 
 spent nearly six months, and made large additions to 
 tin- knowledge of navigation and geography. By mak- 
 ing almost the whole circuit of Men Zealand, he ascer- 
 tained it to he two islands, with a strength of evidence 
 which no prejudice <ould ^ain-ay or resist. He OD- 
 tained, likewise, a full acquaintance with the inhabit- 
 ants of the different parts of the country, with regard 
 to whom it was clearly proved, that they are eaters of 
 human flesh. Omitting a number of minute cireum 
 stances, I shall only select a lew things which mark 
 Mr. Cook's personal conduct, and relate to his inter- 
 course with the natives. 
 
 The good usage the three boys had met with, and 
 the friendly and generous manner in which they were 
 dMBOMted to their own homes, bad some effect in soft- 
 ening the dispositions of the neighbouring Indians. 
 •Several of them, who had come on board while the ship 
 lav becalmed in the afternoon, manifest' d every sign of 
 friendship, and cordially in\ ited the English to go back 
 to their old bay, or to a cove which was not quite so far 
 off. But Lieutenant Cook chose rather to proserin. 
 his discoveries, ha\ injr reason to hope that he should 
 find a better harbour than any he had yet seen. 
 
 While the ship was hauling round to the south end 
 of a small island, which the lieutenant had named Port 
 land, from its \er\ ^reat resemblance to Portland in 
 the British Channel, she suddenly fell into shoal water 
 and broken ground. Tin loundings were never twice 
 the same, jumping at once from serea fathom to (lev en. 
 
43 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 However, they were always seven fathom or mere ; 
 and in a short time the Endeavour got clear of danger, 
 and again sailed in deep water. While the ship was 
 in apparent distress, the inhabitants of the island, who 
 in vast numbers sat on its white cliffs, and could not 
 avoid perceiving some appearance of confusion on board, 
 and some irregularity in the working of the vessel, were 
 desirous of taking advantage of her critical situation. 
 Accordingly, five canoes, full of men, and well armed, 
 were put oft' with the utmost expedition ; and they came 
 so near, and showed so hostile a disposition, by shout- 
 ing, brandishing their lances, and using threatening 
 gestures, that the lieutenant was in pain for his small 
 boat, which was still employed in sounding. By a 
 musket, which he ordered to be fired over them, they 
 were rather provoked than intimidated. The firing of 
 a four pounder, loaded with grape shot, though pur- 
 posely discharged wide of them, produced a better effect. 
 Upon the report of the piece, the Indians all rose up 
 and shouted ; but, instead of continuing the chase, they 
 collected themselves together, and, after a short con- 
 sultation, went quietly away. 
 
 On the 14th of October, Lieutenant Cook having 
 hoisted out his pinnace and long-boat to search for 
 water, just as they were about to set off, several boats, 
 full of the New Zealand people, were seen coming from 
 the shore. After some time, five of these boats, having 
 on board between eighty and ninety men, made towards 
 the ship ; and four more followed at no great distance, 
 as if to sustain the attack. When the first five had got- 
 ten within about a hundred yards of the Endeavour, 
 they began to sing their war song, and, brandishing 
 their pikes, prepared for an engagement. As the lieu- 
 tenant was extremely desirous of avoiding the unhappy 
 necessity of using tire arms against the natives, Tupia 
 was ordered to acquaint them, that our voyagers had 
 weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a 
 moment ; that they would immediately convince them 
 of their power, by directing their effect so that they 
 should not be hurt ; but that, if they persisted in any 
 hostile attempt, they would be exposed to the direct 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 49 
 
 attack of these formidable weapons. A four pounder, 
 loaded with grape shot, was then fired wide of them ; 
 and this expedient was fortunately attended with success. 
 The report, the flash, and, above all, the shot, which 
 spread very far in the water, terrified the Indians to 
 such a degree, that they began to paddle away with all 
 their might. At the instance, however, of Tupia, the 
 people of one of the boats were induced to lay aside 
 their arms, and to come under the stern of the Endea- 
 vour : in consequence of which they received a variety 
 of presents. 
 
 On the next day a circumstance occurred, which 
 showed how ready one of the inhabitants of New Zea- 
 land was to take an advantage of our navigators. In a 
 large armed canoe, which came boldly alongside of the 
 ship, was a man who had a black skin thrown over 
 him, somewhat like that of a bear. Mr. Cook being 
 desirous of knowing to what animal it originally be- 
 longed, offered the Indian for it a piece of red baize. 
 \A ith this bargain he seemed to be greatly pleased, im- 
 mediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in the 
 boat. He would not, however, part with it till he had 
 the cloth in his possession ; and as there could be no 
 transfer of propert3 r , if equal caution should be exer- 
 cised on both sides, the lieutenant ordered the baize to 
 be delivered into his hands. Upon this, instead of send- 
 ing up the skin, he began, with amazing coolness, to 
 pack up both that and the cloth, which he had received 
 as the purchase of it, in a basket : nor did he pay the 
 least regard to Mr. Cook's demand or remonstrances, 
 but soon after put off from the English vessel. Our 
 commander was too generous to revenge this insult by 
 any act of severity. 
 
 During the course of a traffic which was carrying on 
 for some fish, little Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was placed 
 among others over the ship's side, to hand up what was 
 purchased. While he was thus employed, one of the 
 New Zealanders, watching his opportunity, suddenly 
 seized him, and dragged him into a canoe. Two of the 
 Datives then held him down in the fore part of it, and 
 the others, with great activity, paddled her off, with all 
 
 VOL. I. E 
 
50 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 possible celerity. An action so violent rendered it in- 
 dispensably necessary that the marines, who were in 
 arms upon the deck, should be ordered to fire. Though 
 the shot was directed to that part of the canoe which 
 was furthest from the boy, and somewhat wide of her, 
 it being thought favourable, rather to miss the rowers 
 than to run the hazard of hurting Tayeto, it happened 
 that one man dropped. This occasioned the Indians to 
 quit their hold of the youth, who instantly leaped into 
 the water, and swam towards the ship. In the mean- 
 while, the largest of the canoes pulled round and fol- 
 lowed him ; and till some muskets and a great gun were 
 fired at her, did not desist from the pursuit. The ship 
 being brought to, a boat was lowered, and the poor boy 
 was taken up unhurt. Some of the gentlemen, who 
 with their glasses traced the canoes to shore, agreed in 
 asserting, that they saw three men carried up the beach, 
 who appeared to be either dead, or wholly disabled by 
 their wounds. 
 
 While, on the 18th, the Endeavour lay abreast of a 
 peninsula within Portland Island, called Terakako, two 
 of the natives, who were judged to be chiefs, placed an 
 extraordinary degree of confidence in Mr. Cook. They 
 were so well pleased with the kindness which had been 
 shown them in a visit to the ship, that the}- determined 
 not to go on shore till the next morning. This was a 
 circumstance by no means agreeable to the lieutenant, 
 and he remonstrated against it ; but as they persisted in 
 their resolution, he agreed to comply with it, provided 
 their servants were also taken on board, and their canoe 
 hoisted into the ship. The countenance of one of these, 
 two chiefs was the most open and ingenuous that our 
 commander had ever seen, so that he soon gave up 
 every suspicion of his entertaining any sinister design. 
 When the guests were put on shore the next morning, 
 they expressed some surprise at seeing themselves so 
 far from their habitations. 
 
 On Monday the 23d, while the ship was in Tegadoo 
 Bay, Lieutenant Cook went on shore to examine the 
 watering-place, and found every thing agreeable to his 
 wishes. The boat landed in the cove, without the least 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 51 
 
 surf; the water was excellent, and conveniently situ- 
 ated ; there was plenty of wood close to the high water 
 mark, and the disposition of the people was as favour- 
 able in all respects as could be desired. Early the next 
 morning, our commander sent Lieutenant Gore to su- 
 perintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with 
 a sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all 
 the marines, as a guard. Soon after he went on shore 
 himself, and continued there during the whole day. 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had landed on the 
 same day, found in their walks several things worthy 
 of notice. As they were advancing in some of the val- 
 leys, the hills on each side of which were very steep, 
 they were suddenly struck with the sight of an extra- 
 ordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock, perforated 
 through its whole substance, so as to form a rude but 
 stupendous arch or cavern, opening directly to the sea. 
 This aperture was seventy-five feet long, twenty-seven 
 broad, aud five and forty feet high, commanding a view 
 of the bay and the hills on the other side, which Avere 
 seen through it ; and opening at once upon the view, 
 produced an effect far superior to any of the contriv- 
 ances of art. 
 
 When on the 28th, the gentlemen of the Endeavour 
 went on shore, upon an island which lies to the left hand 
 of the entrance of TolagaBay, they saw there the largest 
 canoe they had yet met with ; her length being sixty- 
 eight feet and a half, her breadth five feet, and her height 
 three feet six inches. In the same island was a larger 
 house than any they had hitherto seen ; but it was in 
 an unfinished state, and full of chips. 
 
 While the ship was in Hicks's Bay, the inhabitants 
 of the adjoining coast were found to be very hostile. 
 This gave much uneasiness to our navigators, and was, 
 indeed, contrary to their expectation; for they had 
 hoped, that the report of their power and clemency had 
 spread to a greater extent. At daybreak, on the 1st 
 of November, they counted no less than five and forty 
 canoes, that were coming from the shore towards the 
 Endeavour ; and these were followed by several more, 
 from auother place. Some of the Indians traded fairly ; 
 
52 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 but others of them took what was handed down to them 
 without making airy return, and added derision to fraud. 
 The insolence of one of them was very remarkable. 
 Some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, this 
 man, without any ceremony, untied it, and put it up in 
 his bundle. Being immediately called to, and required 
 to return it, instead of doing so, he let his canoe drop 
 astern, and laughed at the English. A musket, which 
 was fired over his head, did not put a stop to his mirth. 
 From a second musket, which was loaded with small 
 shot, he shrunk a little, when the shot struck him upon 
 Ins back ; but he regarded it no more than one of our 
 men would have done the stroke of a rattan, and con- 
 tinued with great composure to pack up the linen which 
 he had stolen. All the canoes now dropped astern, and 
 set up their song of defiance, which lasted till they were 
 at about four hundred yards distance from the ship. As 
 they did not appear to have a design of attacking our 
 voyagers, Lieutenant Cook was unwilling to do them 
 any hurt ; and yet he thought that their going off in a 
 bravado might have a bad effect, when it should be re- 
 ported on shore. To convince them, therefore, that they 
 were still in his power, though far beyond the reach of 
 any missile weapon with which they were acquainted, 
 he ordered a four pounder to be fired in such a manner 
 as to pass near them. As the shot happened to strike 
 the water, and to rise several times at a great distance 
 beyond the canoes, the Indians were so much terrified, 
 that, without once looking behind them, they paddled 
 away as fast as they were able. 
 
 In standing westward from a small island called Mow- 
 tohora, the Endeavour suddenly shoaled her water from 
 seventeen to ten fathom. As the lieutenant knew that 
 she was not far off from some small islands and rocks, 
 which had been seen before it was dark, and which he 
 had intended to have passed that evening, he thought it 
 more prudent to tack, and to spend the night under 
 Mowtohora, where he was certain that there was no 
 danger. It was happy for himself, and for all our voy- 
 agers, that he formed this resolution. In the morning 
 thev discovered, ahead of them, several rocks, some of 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 53 
 
 which were level with the surface of the water, and 
 some below it ; and the striking against which could 
 not, in the hour of darkness, have been avoided. In 
 passing between these rocks and the main, the ship had 
 only from ten to seven fathom water. 
 
 While Mr. Cook was near an island which he called 
 the Mayor, the inhabitants of the neighbouring coast 
 displayed many instances of hostility, and, in their traffic 
 with our navigators, committed various acts of fraud 
 and robbery. As the lieutenant intended to continue 
 in the place five or six days, in order to make an ob- 
 servation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely 
 necessary, for the prevention of future mischief, to con- 
 vince these people that the English were not to be ill 
 treated with impunity. Accordingly, some small shot 
 were fired at a thief of unconunon insolence, and a mus- 
 ket ball was discharged through the bottom of his boat. 
 Upon this it was paddled to about a hundred yards dis- 
 tance ; and to the surprise of Mr. Cook and his friends, 
 the Indians in the other canoes took not the least notice 
 of their wounded companion, though he bled verv much, 
 but returned to the ship, and continued to trade with 
 the most perfect indifference and unconcern. For a 
 considerable time they dealt fairly. At last, however, 
 one of them thought fit to move off with two different 
 pieces of cloth which had been given for the same wea- 
 pon. "W hen he had gotten to such a distance, that he 
 thought himself secure of his prizes, a musket was fired 
 after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at the 
 water's edge, and made two holes in her side. This ex- 
 cited such an alarm, that not only the people who were 
 shot at, but all the rest of the canoes, made off with the 
 utmost expedition. As the last proof of superiority, our 
 commander ordered a round shot to be fired over them, 
 and not a boat stopped till they got to land. 
 
 After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, 
 Lieutenant Cook went on shore, with Mr. Green, and 
 proper instruments, to observe the transit of Mercury. 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of the party. The 
 weather had for some time been verv thick, with much 
 rain ; but this day proved so fav ourable, that not a cloud 
 
54 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 intervened during the whole transit. The Observation 
 of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, Mr. Cook 
 being employed in taking the sun's altitude to ascertain 
 the time. 
 
 While the gentlemen were thus engaged on shore, 
 they were alarmed by the firing of a great gun from 
 the ship : and, on their return, received the following 
 account of the transaction from Mr. Gore, the second 
 lieutenant, who had been left commanding officer on 
 board. During the carrying on of a trade with some 
 small canoes, two very large ones came up full of men. 
 In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons, all of 
 whom were armed with pikes, stones, and darts, and 
 assumed the appearance of a hostile intention. How- 
 ever, after a little time, they began to traffic, some of 
 them offering their arms, and one of them a square 
 piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called 
 haabow. Mr. Gore having agreed for it, sent down the 
 price, which was a piece of British cloth, and expected 
 his purchase. But as soon as the Indian had gotten 
 Mr. Gore's cloth in his possession, he refused to part 
 with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon being threat- 
 ened for his fraud, he and his companions began to sing 
 their war song in defiance, and shook their paddles. 
 Though their insolence did not proceed to an attack, 
 and only defied Mr. Gore to take any remedy in his 
 power, he was so provoked, that he levelled a musket, 
 loaded with ball, at the offender, while he was holding 
 the cloth in his hand, and shot him dead. When the 
 Indian fell, all the canoes put off to some distance, but 
 continued to keep together in such a manner, that it 
 was apprehended they might still meditate an attack. 
 To secure, therefore, a safe passage for the boat of the 
 Endeavour, which was wanted on shore, a round shot 
 was fired witli so much effect over their heads, as to 
 make them all flee with the utmost precipitation. It 
 was matter of regret to Lieutenant Cook that Mr. Gore 
 had not, in the case of the offending Indian, tried the 
 experiment of a few small shot, which had been success- 
 ful in former instances of robbery. 
 ■ On Friday, the 10th, our commander, accompanied 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 55 
 
 by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, went with two 
 boats, to examine a large river that empties itself into 
 the head of Mercury Bay. As the situation they were 
 now in abounded with conveniences, the lieutenant has 
 taken care to point them out, for the benefit of future 
 navigators. If any occasion should ever render it ne- 
 cessarv for a ship either to winter here, or to stay for 
 a considerable length of time, tents might be built on 
 a high point or peninsula in this place, upon ground 
 sufficiently spacious for the purpose ; and they might 
 easily be made impregnable to the whole force of the 
 country. Indeed the most skilful engineer in Europe 
 could not choose a situation better adapted to enable 
 a small number to defend themselves against a greater. 
 Among: other accommodations which the Endeavour's 
 company met with in Mercury Bay, they derived an 
 agreeable refreshment from some oyster beds, which 
 they had fortunately discovered. The oysters, which 
 were as good as ever came from Colchester, and about 
 the same size, were so plentiful, that not the boat only, 
 but the ship itself, might have been loaded in one tide. 
 On Wednesday, the loth, Lieutenant Cook sailed 
 out of Mercury Bay. This name had been given to it, 
 on account of the observation which had there been 
 made of the transit of that planet over the sun. The 
 river where oysters had been so plentifully found, he 
 called Oyster River. There is another river, at the 
 head of the bay, which is the best and safest place for a 
 ship that wants to stay any length of time. From the 
 number of mangroves about it, the lieutenant named it 
 Mangrove River. In several parts of Mercury Bay, 
 our voyagers saw, thrown upon the shore, great quan- 
 tities of iron sand, which is brought down by every 
 little rivulet of fresh w rater that finds its way from the 
 countrv. This is a demonstration, that there is ore of 
 that metal not far inland ; and yet none of the inhabi- 
 tants of New Zealand, who had yet been seen, knew 
 the use of iron, or set upon it the least degree of value. 
 They bad all of them preferred the most worthless and 
 useless trifle not only to a nail, but to any tool of that 
 metal. Before the Endeavour left the bay, the ship's 
 
56 CAPTAIN COOKS 
 
 name and that of the commander were cut upon one oF 
 the trees near the watering place, together with the 
 date of the year and month when our navigators were 
 there. Besides this, Mr. Cook, after displaying the 
 English colours, took formal possession of the place in 
 the name of his Britannic Majesty, King George the 
 Third. 
 
 In the range from Mercury Bay, several canoes, on 
 the 18th, put off from different places, and advanced 
 towards the Endeavour. When two of them, in which 
 there might be about sixty men, came within the reach 
 of the human voice, the Indians sung their war song ; 
 but seeing that little notice Avas taken of them, they 
 threw a few stones at the English, and then rowed off 
 towards the shore. In a short time, however, they 
 returned, as if with a fixed resolution to provoke our 
 voyagers to a battle, animating themselves by their 
 song as they had done before. Tupia, without any 
 directions from the gentlemen of the Endeavour, began 
 to expostulate with the natives, and told them that our 
 people had weapons which could destroy them in a 
 moment. Their answer to this expostulation was, in 
 their own language, " Come on shore, and we will kill 
 you all."—" Well," replied Tupia, " but why should 
 you molest us while we are at sea 1 As we do not wish 
 to fight, we shall not accept your challenge to come on 
 shore ; and here there is no pretence for a quarrel, the 
 sea being no more your property than the ship." This 
 eloquence, which greatly surprised Lieutenant Cook 
 and his friends, as they had not suggested to Tupia any 
 of the arguments he made use of, produced no effect 
 upon the minds of the Indians, who soon renewed then- 
 attack. The oratory of a musket, which was fired 
 through one of their boats, quelled their courage, and 
 sent them instantly away. 
 
 While our commander was in the Bay of Islands, he 
 had a favourable opportunity of examining the interior 
 part of the country and its produce. At day break, 
 therefore, on the 30th of the month, he set out in the 
 pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by Mr. Banks. 
 Dr.Solander, and Tupia. aud found the inlet, at which 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 57 
 
 they entered, end in a river, about nine miles above the 
 ship. Up this river, to which was given the name of 
 the Thames, they proceeded till near noon, when they 
 were fourteen miles within its entrance. As the gen- 
 tlemen then found the face of the country to continue 
 nearly the same, without any alteration in the course 
 of the stream, and had no hope of tracing it to its 
 source, they landed on the west side, to take a view of 
 the lofty trees which every where adorned its banks. 
 The trees were of a kind which they had seen before, 
 both in Poverty Bay, and Hawke's Bay, though only 
 at a distance. They had not walked a hundred yards 
 into the woods, when they met with one of the trees, 
 which, at the height of six feet above the ground, was 
 nineteen feet eight inches in the girt. Lieutenant Cook, 
 having a quadrant with him, measured its height from 
 the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty- 
 nine feet. It was as straight as an arrow, and tapered 
 but very little in proportion to its height ; so that, in 
 the lieutenant's judgment, there must have been three 
 hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclu- 
 sive of the branches. As the party advanced, they saw 
 many other trees, which were still larger. A young 
 one they cut down, the wood of which was heavy and 
 solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make the 
 finest plank in the world. The carpenter of the ship, 
 who was with the party, said that the timber resembled 
 that of the pitch-pine, which is lightened by tapping. 
 If it should appear, that some such method would be 
 successful in lightening these trees, they would then 
 furnish masts superior to those of any country in Eu- 
 rope. As the wood was swampy, the gentlemen could 
 not range far ; but they found many stout trees of other 
 kinds, with which they were totally unacquainted, and 
 specimens of which they brought away. 
 
 On the 22d, another instance occurred, in which the 
 commanding officer left on board did not know how to 
 exercise his power with the good sense and moderation 
 of Mr. Cook. While some of the natives were in the 
 ship below with Mr. Banks, a young man, who was 
 upon the deck, stole a half-minute glass, and was de- 
 
58 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 tected just as he was carrying it oft*. Mr. Hicks, in his 
 indignation against the offender, was pleased to order 
 that he shonld be punished, by giving him twelve 
 lashes with a cat o'nine tails. When the other Indians, 
 who were on board, saw him seized for the purpose, 
 they attempted to rescue him ; and being resisted, they 
 called for their arms, which were handed from the 
 canoes. At the same time, the people of one of the 
 canoes attempted to come up the side of the Endea- 
 vour. The tumult having called up Mr. Banks and 
 Tupia, the natives ran to the latter, and solicited his 
 interposition. All, however, which he could do, as 
 Mr. Hicks continued inexorable, was to assure them, 
 that nothing was intended against the life of their com- 
 panion, and that it was necessary that he should suffer 
 some punishment for his offence. With this explana- 
 tion they appeared to be satisfied ; and when the punish- 
 ment had been inflicted, an old man among the specta- 
 tors, who was supposed to be the criminal's father, 
 gave him a severe beating, and sent him down into his 
 canoe. Notwithstanding this, the Indians were far 
 from being reconciled to the treatment which their 
 countrvman had received. Their cheerful confidence 
 was gone ; and though they promised, at their depar- 
 ture, to return with some fish, the English saw them 
 no more. 
 
 On the 29th of November, Lieutenant Cook, Mr. 
 Banks, Dr. Solander, and others with them, were in a 
 situation somewhat critical and alarming. Having 
 landed upon an island in the neighbourhood of Cape 
 Bret, they Avere in a few minutes surrounded by two 
 or three hundred people. Though the Indians were 
 all armed, they came on in so confused and straggling 
 a manner, that it did not appear that any injury was 
 intended by them ; and the English gentlemen were 
 determined that hostilities should not begin on their 
 part. At first the natives continued quiet ; but their 
 weapons were held ready to strike, and they seemed 
 to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While the lieu- 
 tenant and his friends remained in a state of suspense, 
 another party of Indians came up ; and the boldness of 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 59 
 
 the whole body being increased by the augmentation 
 of their numbers, they began the dance and song, which 
 are their preludes to a battle. An attempt, that was 
 made by a number of them, to seize the two boats 
 which had brought our voyagers to land, appeared to 
 be the signal for a general attack. It no w became ne- 
 cessary for Mr. Cook to exert himself with vigour. 
 Accordinglv, he discharged his musket, which was 
 loaded with small shot, at one of the forwardest of 
 the assailants, and Mr. Banks, and two of our men, 
 fired immediately afterwards. Though this made the 
 natives fall back in some confusion, nevertheless, one 
 of the chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty 
 yards, had the courage to rally them, and, calling 
 loudlv to his companions, led them on to the charge. 
 Dr. Solander instantly discharged his piece at this 
 champion, who, upon feeling the shot, stopped short, 
 and then ran away with the rest of his countrymen. 
 Still, however, they did not disperse, but got upon 
 rising ground, and seemed only to want some leader 
 of resolution to renew their assault. As they were 
 now gotten beyond ihe reach of small shot, the English 
 fired with ball, none of which taking place, the Indians 
 continued together in a body. While our people were 
 in this doubtful situation, which lasted about a quarter 
 of an hour, the ship, from which a much greater num- 
 ber of natives were seen than could be discovered on 
 shore, brought her broadside to bear, and entirely dis- 
 persed them, by firing a few shot over their heads. In 
 this skirmish, only two of them were hurt with the 
 small shot, and not a single life was lost ; a case which 
 would not have happened if Lieutenant Cook had not 
 restrained his men, who, either from fear or the love 
 of mischief, showed as much impatience to destroy the 
 Indians, as a sportsman to kill his game. Such was the 
 difference between the disposition of the common sea- 
 men and marines, and that of their humane and judicious 
 commander. 
 
 On the same day Mr. Cook displayed a very exem- 
 plary act of discipline. Some of the ship's people, who, 
 when the natives were to be punished for a fraud, 
 
60 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 assumed the inexorable justice of a Lyeurgus, thought 
 fit to break into one of their plantations, and to dig up 
 a quantity of potatoes. For this the lieutenant ordered 
 each of them to receive twelve lashes, after which two 
 of them were discharged. But the third, in a singular 
 strain of morality, insisted upon it, that it was no 
 crime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian planta- 
 tion. The method taken by our commander to refute 
 his casuistry, was to send him back to his confinement, 
 and not to permit him to be released, till he had been 
 punished with six lashes more. 
 
 The Endeavour, on the 5th of December, was in 
 the most imminent hazard of being wrecked. At four 
 o'clock in the morning of that day our voyagers 
 weighed, with a light breeze ; but it being variable 
 with frequent calms, they made little way. From that 
 time till the afternoon they kept turning out of the 
 bay, and about ten at night were suddenly becalmed, 
 so that the ship could neither wear nor exactly keep 
 her station. The tide or current setting strong, she 
 drove toward land so fast, that before any measures 
 could be taken for her security, she was within a cable's 
 length of the breakers. Though our people had thirteen 
 fathom water, the ground was so foul, that they did not 
 dare to drop their anchor. In this crisis, the pinnace 
 being immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, 
 and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting them 
 selves to the utmost, a faint breeze sprang up off the 
 land, and our navigators perceived, with unspeakable 
 joy, that the vessel made headway. So near was she 
 to the shore, that Tupia, who was ignorant of the hair's 
 breadth escape the company had experienced, was at 
 this very time conversing with the Indians upon the 
 beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwith- 
 standing the roar of the breakers. Mr. Cook and his 
 friends now thought that all danger was over ; but 
 about an hour afterwards, just as the man in the chains 
 had cried " seventeen fathom" the ship struck. The 
 shock threw them into the utmost consternation ; and 
 almost instantly the man in the chains cried out " five 
 fathom." By this time, the rock on which the ship had 
 

 FIRST VOYAGE. 61 
 
 struck being to the windward, she went off without 
 having received the least damage ; and the water very 
 soon deepening to twenty fathom, she again sailed in 
 security. 
 
 The inhabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to 
 be far more numerous than in any other part of New 
 Zealand which Lieutenant Cook had hitherto visited. 
 It did not appear that they were united under one 
 head ; and, though their towns were fortified, they 
 seemed to live together in perfect amity. 
 
 The Endeavour, on the 9th of December, lying be- 
 calmed in Doubtless Bay, an opportunity was taken to 
 inquire of the natives concerning their country; and 
 our navigators learned from them, by the help of Tupia, 
 that at the distance of three days rowing in their canoes, 
 at a place called Moore- Wheunua, the land would take 
 a short turn to the southward, and thence extend no 
 more to the west. This place the English gentlemen 
 concluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, and 
 which had been named by him Cape Maria van Diemen. 
 The lieutenant, finding the inhabitants so intelligent, 
 inquired further, if they knew of any country besides 
 their own. To this they answered, that they had never 
 visited any other ; but that their ancestors had told 
 them, that there was a country of great extent, to the 
 north-west bv north, or north-north west, called Uli- 
 maroa, to which some people had sailed in a very large 
 canoe ; and that only a part of them had returned, who 
 reported, that, after a passage of a month, they had 
 seen a country where the people eat hogs. 
 
 On the 30th of December, our navigators saw the 
 land, which they judged to be Cape Maria van Diemen, 
 and which corresponded with the account that had 
 been given of it by the Indians. The next day, from 
 the appearance of Mount Camel, they had a demonstra- 
 tion that, where they now were, the breadth of New 
 Zealand could not be more than two or three miles 
 from sea to sea. During this part of the navigation, 
 two particulars occurred which are very remarkable. 
 In latitude 35° S. and in the midst of summer, Lieute- 
 nant Cook met with a gale of wind, which, from its 
 
62 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 strength and continuance, was such as he had scarcely 
 ever been in before ; and he was three weeks in getting 
 ten leagues to the westward, and five weeks in getting 
 fifty leagues ; for at this time, being the 1st of January, 
 1770, it was so long since he had passed Cape Bret. 
 While the gale lasted, our voyagers were happily at a 
 considerable distance from the land ; since, otherwise, 
 it was highly probable that they would never have re- 
 turned to relate their adventures. 
 
 The shore at Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the 
 English had arrived on the 14th of January, seemed to 
 form several bays, into one of which the lieutenant pro- 
 posed to carry the ship, which was now become very 
 foul, in order to careen her, to repair some defects, and 
 to obtain a recruit of wood and water. At daybreak, 
 the next morning, he stood in for an inlet, and at eight 
 got within the entrance. At nine o'clock, there being 
 little wind, and what there was being variable, the 
 Endeavour was canned by the tide or current within 
 two cables' length of the north-west shore where she 
 had fifty-four fathom water. By the help of the boats 
 she was gotten clear ; and about two, our people an- 
 chored in a very safe and convenient cove. Soon after, 
 Mr. Cook, with most of the gentlemen, landed upon the 
 coast, where they found a fine stream of excellent 
 water, and wood in the greatest plenty. Indeed the 
 land, in this part of the country, was one forest, of 
 vast extent. As the gentlemen had brought the seine 
 with them, it was hauled once or twice ; and with such 
 success, that different sorts of fish were caught, amount- 
 ing nearly to three hundred weight. The equal distri- 
 bution of these among the ship's company, furnished 
 them with a very agreeable refreshment. 
 
 When Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, 
 Tupia, and some others, landed on the 16th, they met 
 with an Indian family, among whom they found horrid 
 and indisputable proofs of the custom of eating human 
 flesh. Not to resume so disagreeable a subject, it may 
 here be observed once for all, that evidences of the 
 same custom appeared on various occasions. 
 
 On the next day a delightful object engaged the at- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 63 
 
 tention of our voyagers. The ship lying at the dis- 
 tance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile from 
 the shore, they were awakened by the singing of an in- 
 credible number of birds, who seemed to strain their 
 throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody 
 was infinitely superior to any they had ever heard of 
 the same kind, and seemed- to be like small bells, most 
 exquisitely tuned. It is probable, that the distance, 
 and the water between, might be of no small advantage 
 to the sound. Upon inquiry, the gentlemen were in- 
 formed, that the birds here always began to sing about 
 two hours after midnight ; and that, continuing their 
 music till sunrise, they were silent the rest of the day. 
 In this last respect they resembled the nightingales of 
 our own country. 
 
 On the 18th, Lieutenant Cook went out in the pin- 
 nace, to take a view of the bay in which the ship was 
 now at anchor; and found it to be of great extent, 
 consisting of numberless small harbours and cov es, iu 
 every direction. The lieutenant confined his excursion 
 to the western side, and the coast where he landed 
 being an impenetrable forest, nothing could be seen 
 worthy of notice. As our commander and his friends 
 were returning-, thev saw a single man in a canoe fish- 
 ing : rowing up to him, to their great surprise, he took 
 not the least notice of them ; and even when they were 
 alongside of him, continued to follow his occupation, 
 without adv erting to them any more than if they had 
 been invisible, this behaviour was not, however, the 
 result either of sullenness or stupidity ; for upon being 
 requested to draw up his net, that it might be examined, 
 he readily complied. He showed, likewise, to our 
 people his mode of fishing, which was simple and 
 ingenious. 
 
 When, on the 19th, the armourer's forge was set up, 
 and all hands on board were busy in careening, and in 
 other necessary operations about the vessel, some In- 
 dians, who had brought plenty of fish, exchanged them 
 for nails, of which they had now begun to perceive the 
 use and value. This may be considered as one in- 
 
C4 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 stance in which they were enlightened and benefited by 
 their intercourse with our navigators. 
 
 While, on the 22d, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander em- 
 ployed themselves in botanizing near the beach, our 
 commander, taking a seaman with him, ascended one of 
 the hills of the country. Upon reaching its summit, 
 he found the view of the inlet, the head of which he 
 had a little before in vain attempted to discover in the 
 pinnace, intercepted by hills still higher than that on 
 which he stood, and which were rendered inaccessible 
 by impenetrable woods. He was, however, amply re- 
 warded for his labour ; for he saw the sea on the eastern 
 side of the country, and a passage leading from it to 
 that on the west, a little to the eastward of the en- 
 trance of the inlet where the ship lay. The main land, 
 which was on the south-east side of this inlet, ap- 
 peared to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to 
 form part of the south-west side of the strait. On the 
 opposite side, the land trended away east as far as the 
 eye could reach ; and to the south-east there was dis- 
 cerned an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern 
 coast. The lieutenant saw, also, on the east side of the 
 inlet, some islands which he had before taken to be part 
 of the main land. In returning to the ship, he examined 
 the harbours and coves that lie behind the islands 
 which he had seen from the hills. The next day was 
 employed by him in further surveys and discoveries. 
 
 During a visit to the Indians, on the 24th, Tupia 
 being of the party, they were observed to be continually 
 talking of guns and shooting people. For this subject 
 of their conversation, the English gentlemen could not 
 at all account. But, after perplexing themselves with 
 various conjectures, they at length learned, that, on the 
 21st, one of our oflicers, under the pretence of going 
 out to fish, had rowed up to a hippah, or village, on the 
 coast. When he had done so, two or three canoes 
 coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested that an 
 attack was intended, in consequence of which three 
 muskets were fired, one with small shot, and two with 
 ball, at the Indians, who retired with the utmost pre- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 65 
 
 ripitation. It is highly probable, that they had come 
 out with friendly intentions, for such intentions were 
 expressed bv their behaviour, both before and after- 
 wards. This action of the officer exhibited a fresh 
 instance, how little some of the people under Lieute- 
 nant Cook had imbibed of the wise, discreet, and 
 humane spirit of their commander. 
 
 On the morning of the 26th, the lieutenant went again 
 out in the boat, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and 
 entered one of the bays, which lie on the east side of 
 the inlet, in order to obtain another sight of the strait 
 which passed between the eastern and western seas. 
 Having landed, for this purpose, at a convenient place, 
 thev climbed a hill of very considerable height, from 
 which they had a full view of the strait, with the land 
 on the opposite shore, which they judged to be about 
 four leagues distant. As it was hazy in the horizon, 
 they could not see far to the south-east ; but Mr. Cook 
 saw enough to determine him to search the passage 
 with the ship, as soon as he should put to sea. The 
 gentlemen found, on the top of the hill, a parcel of 
 loose stones, with which they erected a pyramid, and 
 left in it some musket balls, small shot, beads, and such 
 other things, which they happened to have about them, 
 as were likely to stand the test of time. These, not 
 being of Indian workmanship, would convince any 
 European, who should come to the place and pull it 
 down, that natives of Europe had been there before. 
 After this, the lieutenant and his friends went to a 
 town of which the Indians had informed them, and 
 m hich, like one they had already seen, was built upon 
 a small island or rock, so difficult of access, that they 
 gratified their curiosity at the risk of their lives. Here, 
 as had been the case in former visits to the inhabitants 
 of that part of the country near which the ship now lay, 
 they were received with open arms, carried through the 
 whole of the place, and shown all that it contained. 
 The town consisted of between eighty and a hundred 
 houses, and had onlv one fighting stage. Mr. Cook, 
 Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, happened to have with 
 them a few nails and ribands, and some paper, with 
 
 VOL. I. F 
 
•60 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 which the people were so highly gratified, that when 
 the gentlemen went away, they filled the English boat 
 with dried fish, of which it appeared that they had laid 
 up large quantities. 
 
 A report was spread, that one of the men, that had 
 been so rashly fired upon by the officer who had visited 
 the hippah, under the pretence of fishing, was dead of 
 his wounds. But, on the 29th, the lieutenant had the 
 great consolation of discovering that this report was 
 groundless. On the same day he went again on shore, 
 upon the western point of the inlet, and, from a hill of 
 considerable height, had a view of the coast to the 
 north-west. The furthest land he could see, in that 
 quarter, was an island at the distance of about ten 
 lea<»-ues, lying not far from the main. Between this 
 island and the place where he stood, he discovered, 
 close under *' 3 shore, several other islands, forming 
 many bays, in which there appeared to be good ancho- 
 rage for shipping. After he had set oft' the different 
 points for his survey, he erected another pile of stones, 
 in which he left a piece of silver coin, with some 
 musket balls and beads, and a fragment of an old pen- 
 dant flying at the top. 
 
 On the 30th of January, the ceremony was performed 
 of giving name to the inlet where our voyagers now 
 lay^and of erecting a memorial of the visit which they 
 had made to this place. The carpenter having pre- 
 pared two posts for the purpose, our commander ordered 
 them to be inscribed with the ship's name, and the dates 
 of the year and the month. One of these he set up at 
 the watering-place, hoisting the union-flag upon the 
 top of it ; and the other he carried over to the island 
 that lies nearest the sea, and which is called by the 
 natives Motuara. He went first, accompanied by Mr. 
 Monkhouse and Tupia, to the neighbouring village, or 
 hippah, where he met with an old man, who had main- 
 tained a friendly intercourse with the English. To this 
 old man, and several Indians besides, the lieutenant, 
 by means of Tupia, explained his design, which, he 
 informed them, was to erect a mark upon the island, in 
 order to show to any other ship, which should happen 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 67 
 
 to come thither, that our navigators had been there 
 before. To this the inhabitants readily consented, and 
 promised that they would never pull it down. He then 
 gave something to every one present, and to the old 
 man a silver threepence, and some spike-nails, with 
 the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them. These 
 were things which Mr. Cook thought were the most 
 likelv to be long preserved. After this, he conveyed 
 the post to the highest part of the island ; and, having 
 fixed it firmly in the ground, hoisted upon it the union 
 flag, and honoured the inlet with the name of Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound. At the same time, he took formal 
 possession of this and the adjacent country, in the 
 name and for the use of His Majesty King George the 
 Third. The ceremony was concluded by the gentle- 
 men's drinking a bottle of wine to her majesty's health ; 
 and the bottle being given to the old mau^ who had 
 attended them up the hill, he was highly delighted 
 with his present. 
 
 A philosopher, perhaps, might inquire on what 
 ground Lieutenant Cook could take formal possession 
 of this part of New Zealand, in the name and for the 
 use of the King of Great Britain, when the country was 
 already inhabited, and of course belonged to those by 
 whom it was occupied, and whose ancestors might 
 have resided in it for many preceding ages. To this 
 the best answer seems to be, that the lieutenant, in the 
 ceremony performed by him, had no reference to the 
 original inhabitants, or any intention to deprive them 
 of their natural rights, but only to preclude the claims 
 of future European navigators, who, under the auspices 
 and for the benefit of their respective states or king- 
 doms, might form pretensions, to which they were not 
 entitled by prior discovery. 
 
 On the 31st, our voyagers having completed their 
 wooding, and filled their water-casks, Mr. Cook sent 
 out two parties, one to cut and make brooms, and 
 another to catch fish. In the evening: there was a 
 strong gale from the north-west, with such a heavy 
 rain, that the little wild musicians on shore suspended 
 their song, which till now had been constantlv heard 
 
68 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 during the night, with a pleasure that it was impossible 
 to lose without regret. The gale, on the 1st of Fe- 
 bruary, increased to a storm, Avith heavy gusts from 
 the high land, one of which broke the hawser, that had 
 been fastened to the shore, and induced the necessity 
 of letting go another anchor. Though, towards mid- 
 night, the gale became more moderate, the rain con- 
 tinued with so much violence, that the brook, which 
 supplied the ship with water, overflowed its banks ; in 
 consequence of which ten small casks, that had been 
 filled the day before, were carried away, and, notwith- 
 standing the most diligent search for them, could not 
 
 T^p fPCOVGrGQ* 
 
 The Endeavour, on Monday the 5th, got. under sail ; 
 but the wind soon failing, our commander was obliged 
 again to come to anchor, a little above Motuara. As 
 he was desirous of making still further inquiries, whe- 
 ther any memory of Tasman had been preserved in 
 New Zealand, he directed Tupia to ask of the old man 
 before mentioned, who had come on board to take his 
 leave of the English gentlemen, whether he had ever 
 heard that such a vessel as theirs had before visited the 
 country. To this he replied in the negative ; but said, 
 that his ancestors had told him, that there once had 
 arrived a small vessel from a distant land, called Uh- 
 maroa, in which were four men, who upon their reach- 
 ing the shore were all killed. On being asked where 
 this country lay, he pointed to the northward. Of 
 Ulimaroa, Lieutenant Cook had heard something be- 
 fore, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who 
 said, that it had been visited by their ancestors. Tupia 
 had also some confused traditionary notions concerning 
 it ; but no certain conclusion could be drawn either 
 from his account or that of the old Indian. 
 
 Soon after the ship came to anchor the second time, 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had gone on shore 
 to see if any gleanings of natural knowledge remained, 
 fell in, by accident, with the most agreeable Indian 
 family they had yet seen, and which afforded them a 
 better opportunity of remarking the personal subordi- 
 nation among the natives, than had before ottered. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 69 
 
 The whole behaviour of this family was affable, obliging, 
 and unsuspicious. It was matter of sincere regret to 
 the two gentlemen, that they had not sooner met with 
 these people, as a better acquaintance with the manners 
 and disposition of the inhabitants of the country might 
 hence have been obtained in a day, than had been ac- 
 quired during the whole stay of the English upon the 
 coast. 
 
 When, on the 6th of February, Lieutenant Cook had 
 gotten out of the sound, he stood over to the eastward, 
 in order to get the strait well open before the tide of 
 ebb approached. At seven in the evening, two small 
 islands, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the south-east 
 head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, at the 
 distance of about four miles. It was nearly calm, and 
 the tide of ebb setting out, the Endeavour, in a very 
 short time, was carried by the rapidity of the stream 
 close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising 
 almost perpendicularly out of the sea. The danger 
 increased every moment, and there was but one expe- 
 dient to prevent the ship's being dashed to pieces, the 
 success of which a few moments would determine. 
 She was now within little more than a cable's length 
 of the rock, and had above seventy-five fathom water. 
 But, upon dropping an anchor, and veering above 
 one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, she was happily 
 brought up. This, however, would not have saved our 
 navigators, if the tide, which set south by east, had 
 not, upon meeting with the island, changed its direc- 
 tion to south-east, and carried them beyond the first 
 point. In this situation they were not above two cables' 
 length from the rocks ; and here they remained in the 
 strength of the tide, which set to the south-east, a'ter 
 the rate of at least five miles an hour, from a little after 
 seven till midnight, when the tide abated, and the ves- 
 sel began to heave. By three in the morning, a light 
 breeze at north-west having sprung up, our voyagers 
 sailed for the eastern shore ; though they made but 
 little way, in consequence of the tide being against 
 them. The wind, however, having afterwards fresh- 
 ened, and come to north and north-east, with this, and 
 
70 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 the tide of ebb, they were in a short time hurried 
 through the narrowest part of the strait, and then stood 
 away for the southernmost land they had in prospect. 
 There appeared, over this laud, a mountain of stupen- 
 dous height, which was covered with snow. The nar- 
 rowest part of the strait, through which the Endeavour 
 had been driven with such rapidity, lies between Cape 
 Tierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape 
 Koamaroo ; the distance between which our commander 
 judged to be four or five leagues. Notwithstanding the 
 difficulties arising from this tide, now its strength is 
 known, the strait may be passed without danger. 
 
 Some of the officers started a notion, that Eaheino- 
 mauwe was not an island, and that the land might 
 stretch away to the south-east, from between Cape 
 Turnagain and Cape Palliser, there being a space of 
 between twelve and fifteen leagues which had not yet 
 been seen. Though Lieutenant Cook, from what he 
 had observed the first time he discovered the strait, 
 and from many other concurrent circumstances, had 
 the strongest conviction that they were mistaken, he, 
 nevertheless, resolved to leave no possibility of doubt 
 with respect to an object of so much importance. For 
 this purpose he gave such a direction to the navigation 
 of the ship, as would most effectually tend to determine 
 the matter. After a course of two days he called the 
 officers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were 
 not now satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. 
 To this question they readily answered in the affirma- 
 tive ; and all doubts being removed, the lieutenant 
 proceeded to further researches. 
 
 During Mr. Cook's long and minute examination of 
 the coast of New Zealand, he gave names to the bays, 
 capes, promontories, islands, and rivers, and other 
 places which were seen or visited by him ; excepting 
 in those cases where their original appellations were 
 learned from the natives. The names he fixed upon 
 were either derived from certain characteristic or ad- 
 ventitious circumstances, or were conferred in honour 
 of his friends and acqiiaintance, chiefly those of the 
 uaval line. Such of the readers of the present work as 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 71 
 
 desire to be particularly informed concerning them, 
 will naturally have recourse to the indications of them 
 In the several maps on which they are described. 
 
 The ascertaining of New Zealand to be an island did 
 not conclude Lieutenant Cook's examination of the 
 nature, situation, and extent of the country. After 
 this, he completed his circumnavigation, by ranging 
 from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern 
 coast of Poenammoo, round Cape South, and back to 
 the western entrance of the strait he had passed, and 
 which was very properly named Cook's Strait. This 
 range, which commenced on the 9th of February, I 
 shall not minutely and regularly pursue ; but content 
 myself, as in the former course, with mentioning such 
 circumstances as are more directly adapted to my im- 
 mediate design. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 14th, when Mr. Banks was 
 out in the boat a shooting, our voyagers saw, with 
 their glasses, four double canoes put oft' from the shore 
 towards him, having on board fifty-seven men. The 
 lieutenant, being alarmed for the safety of his friend, 
 immediately ordered signals to be made for his return ; 
 but he was prevented from seeing them by the situation 
 of the sun with regard to the ship. However, it was 
 soon with pleasure observed, that his boat was in mo- 
 tion ; and he was taken on board before the Indians, 
 who perhaps had not discerned him, came up. Their 
 attention seemed to be wholly fixed upon the ship. 
 They came within about a stone's cast of her, and then 
 stopped, gazing at the English with a look of vacant 
 astonishment. Tupia in vain exerted his eloquence to 
 prevail upon them to make a nearer approach. After 
 surveying our navigators some time, they left them, 
 and made towards the shore. The gentlemen could 
 not help remarking, on this occasion, the different dis- 
 positions and behaviour of the different inhabitants of 
 the country, at the first sight of the Endeavour. The 
 people now seen kept aloof with a mixture of timidity 
 and wonder ; others had immediately commenced hos- 
 tilities ; the man who was found fishing alone in his 
 canoe appeared to regard our voyagers as totally un- 
 
72 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 worthy of notice ; and some had come on board almost 
 without invitation, and with an air of perfect confidence 
 and good will. From the conduct of the last visitors, 
 Lieutenant Cook gave the land from which they had 
 put off, and which had the appearance of an island, the 
 name of Lookers-on. 
 
 When an island, which lies about five leagues from 
 the coast of Tovy-Poenammoo, and which was named 
 Banks's Island, was first discovered in the direction of 
 south by west, some persons on board were of opinion, 
 that they saw land bearing south-south-east, and south- 
 east by east. Our commander, who was himself upon 
 the deck at the time, told them, that in his judgment it 
 was no more than a cloud, which, as the sun rose, 
 would dissipate and vanish. Being, however, deter- 
 mined to leave no subject for disputation which experi- 
 ment could remove, he ordered the ship to steer in the 
 direction which the supposed country was said to bear. 
 Having gone in this direction eight and twenty miles, 
 without discovering any signs of land, the Endeavour 
 resumed her intended course to the southward, it being 
 the particular view of the lieutenant to ascertain whe- 
 ther Poenammoo was an island or a continent. 
 
 In passing some rocks on the 9th of March, in the 
 night, it appeared in the morning that the ship had 
 been in the most imminent danger. Her escape was 
 indeed critical in the highest degree. To these rocks, 
 therefore, which, from their situation, are so well 
 adapted to catch unwary strangers, Mr. Cook gave 
 the name of the Traps. On the same day he reached a 
 point of land which he called the South Cape, and 
 which he supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, 
 the southern extremity of the country. 
 
 In sailing, on Wednesday the 14th, the Endeavour 
 passed a small narrow opening in the land, where there 
 seemed to be a very safe and convenient harbour, 
 formed by an island, which lay eastward in the middle 
 of the opening. On the land, behind the opening, are 
 mountains, the summits of which were covered with 
 snow, that appeared to have recently fallen. Indeed 
 our voyagers, for two days past, had found the weather 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 73 
 
 extremely cold. On each side the entrance of the 
 opening, the land rises almost perpendicularly from 
 the sea to a stupendous height. For this reason Lieu- 
 tenant Cook did not choose to carry the ship into the 
 harbour. He was sensible that no wind could blow 
 there but right in or right out ; and he did not think 
 it by any means advisable to put into a place whence 
 he could not have gotten out, but with a wind, which, 
 experience had taught him, did not blow more than 
 one day in a month. Sagacious as this determination 
 of our commander was, it did not give universal satis- 
 faction. He acted in it contrary to the opinion of 
 some persons on board, who expressed in strong terms 
 their desire of coming to harbour ; not sufficiently con- 
 sidering, that present convenience ought not to be 
 purchased at the expense of incurring great future dis- 
 advantages. 
 
 By the 27th of March, Mr. Cook had circumnavi- 
 gated the whole country of Tovy-Poenammoo, and 
 arrived within sight of the island formerly mentioned, 
 which lies at the distance of nine leagues from the en- 
 trance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having at this 
 time thirty tons of empty water-casks on board, it was 
 necessary to fill them before he finally proceeded on his 
 voyage. For this purpose, he hauled round the island, 
 and entered a bay, situated between that and Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound, and to which the name was given of 
 Admiralty Bay. 
 
 The business of wooding and watering having been 
 completed on the 30th, and the ship being ready tor the 
 sea, the point now to be determined was, what route 
 should be pursued in returning home, that would be of 
 most advantage to the public service. Upon this sub- 
 ject the lieutenant thought proper to take the opinion 
 of his officers. He had himself a strong desire to re- 
 turn by Cape Horn, because that would have enabled 
 him to determine, whether there is or is not a southern 
 continent. But against this scheme it was a sufficient 
 objection, that our navigators must have kept in a high 
 southern latitude, in the very depth of winter, and in 
 a vessel which was not thought to be in a condition fit 
 
74 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 for the undertaking. The same reason was urged, 
 with still greater force, against their proceeding di- 
 rectly for the Cape of Good Hope, because no dis- 
 covery of moment could be expected in that route. It 
 was, therefore, resolved that they should return by the 
 East Indies ; and that, with this view, they should steer 
 westward, till they should fall in with the east coast of 
 New Holland, and then follow the direction of that 
 coast to the northward, till they should arrive at its 
 northern extremity. If that should be found imprac- 
 ticable, it was farther resolved, that they should endea- 
 vour to fall in with the land, or islands, said to have 
 been discovered by Quiros. 
 
 In the six months which Lieutenant Cook had spent 
 in the examination of New Zealand, he made very large 
 additions to the knowledge of geography and naviga- 
 tion. That country was first discovered in the year 
 1642, by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navigator. He 
 traversed the eastern coast from latitude 34° 43', and 
 entered the strait now called Cook's Strait ; but being 
 attacked by the natives soon after he came to an anchor, 
 in the place which he named Murderer's Bay, he never 
 went on shore. Nevertheless, he assumed a kind of 
 claim to the country, by calling it Staaten Land, or the 
 Land of the States, "in honour of the States-General. It 
 is now usually distinguished in maps and charts by the 
 name of New Zealand. The whole of the country, 
 excepting that part of the coast which was seen by 
 Tasman from on board his ship, continued from his 
 time, to the voyage of the Endeavour, altogether un- 
 known. By many persons it has been supposed to 
 constitute a part of a southern continent ; but it was 
 now ascertained by Mr. Cook to consist of two large 
 islands, divided from each other by a strait or passage, 
 which is about four or five leagues broad. These 
 islands are situated between the latitudes of 34° and 
 48° south, and between the longitudes of 181° and 194° 
 west ; a matter which Mr. Green determined with un- 
 common exactness, from innumerable observations of 
 the sun and moon, and one of the transits of Mercury. 
 The northernmost of these islands is called by the satires 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 75 
 
 Eaheinomauwe, and the southernmost Tory, or Tavai 
 Poenammoo. It is not, however, certain, whether the 
 whole southern islaud, or only part of it, is compre- 
 hended under the latter name. 
 
 Tovy Poenammoo is principally a mountainous, and 
 to all appearance a barren country. The only inhabi- 
 tants, and signs of inhabitants, that were discovered 
 upon all the islands, were the people whom our voy- 
 agers saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, some that came 
 off to them under the snowy mountains, and several 
 fires which were discerned to the west of Cape Saun- 
 ders. Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance. 
 Though it is not only hilly but mountainous, even the 
 hills and mountains are covered with wood, and every 
 valley has a rivulet of water. The soil in these valleys, 
 and in the plains, many of which are not overgrown 
 with wood, is in general light, but fei-tile. It was the 
 opinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, as well as of 
 the other gentlemen on board, that all kinds of Euro- 
 pean grain, plants, and fruit, would flourish here in 
 the utmost luxuriance. There is reason to conclude, 
 from the vegetables which our navigators found in 
 Eaheinomauwe, that the winters are milder than those 
 in England ; and the summer was experienced not to 
 be hotter, though it was more equally warm. If this 
 countrv, therefore, should be settled by people from 
 Europe, they might, with a little industry, very soon 
 be supplied, in great abundance, not merely with the 
 necessaries, but even with the luxuries of life. 
 
 In Eaheinomauwe there are no quadrupeds but dogs 
 and rats. At least, no other were seen by our voy- 
 agers ; and the rats are so scarce, that they wholly 
 escaped the notice of man}' on board. Of birds the 
 species are not numerous ; and of these no one kind, 
 excepting perhaps the gaunet, is exactly the same with 
 those of Europe. Insects are not in greater plenty 
 than birds. The sea makes abundant recompense for 
 this scarcity of animals upon the land. Every creek 
 swarms with fish, which are not only wholesome, but 
 equally delicious with those in our part of the world. 
 The Endeavour seldom anchored in any station, or with 
 
76 CAPTAIN COOK S 
 
 a light gale passed any place, that did not afford enough, 
 with hook and line, to serve the whole ship's company. 
 If the seine was made use of, it seldom failed of pro- 
 ducing a still more ample supply. The highest luxury 
 of this kind, with which the English were gratified, 
 was the lobster, or sea cray-fish. Among the vegetable 
 productions of the country, the trees claim a principal 
 place ; there being forests of vast extent, full of the 
 straightest, the cleanest, and the largest timber Mr. 
 Cook and his friends had ever seen. Mr. Banks and 
 Dr. Solander were gratified by the novelty, if not by 
 the variety of the plants. Out of about four hundred 
 species, there were not many which had hitherto been 
 described by botanists. There is one plant that serves 
 the natives instead of hemp and flax, and which excels 
 all that are applied to the same purposes in other 
 countries. 
 
 If the settling of New Zealand should ever be deemed 
 an object deserving the attention of Great Britain, our 
 commander thought, that the best place for establishing 
 a colony would either be on the banks of the Thames, or 
 in the territory adjoining to the Bay of Islands. Each 
 of these places possesses the advantage of an excellent 
 harbour. By means of the river, settlements might be 
 extended, and a communication established with the 
 inland parts of the country. Vessels might likewise be 
 built of the fine timber which is every where to be met 
 with, at very little trouble and expense. 
 
 But I am in danger of forgetting myself, and of run- 
 ning into a detail, which may be thought rather to ex- 
 ceed the intentions of the present narrative. It is dif- 
 ficult to restrain the pen, when such a variety of curious 
 and entertaining matter lies before it; and I must en- 
 treat the indulgence of my readers while I mention two 
 or three further particulars. One circumstance pecu- 
 liarly worthy of notice, is the perfect and uninterrupted 
 health of the inhabitants of New Zealand. In all the 
 visits made to their towns, where old and young, men 
 and women, crowded about our voyagers, they never 
 observed a single person who appeared to have any 
 bodily complaint ; nor among the numbers that were 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 77 
 
 seen naked, was once perceived the slightest eruption 
 upon the skin, or the least mark which indicated that 
 euch an eruption had formerly existed. Another proof 
 of the health of these people is the facility with which 
 the wounds they at any time receive are healed. In 
 the man who had been shot with a musket ball through 
 the fleshy part of his arm, the wound seemed to be so 
 well digested, and in so fair a way of being perfectly 
 healed, that if Mr. Cook had not known that no appli- 
 cation had been made to it, he declared that he should 
 certainly have inquired, with a very interested curio- 
 sity, after the vulnerary herbs and surgical art of the 
 country. An additional evidence of human nature's 
 being untainted with disease in New Zealand, is the 
 great number of old men with whom it abounds. Many 
 of them, by the loss of their hair and teeth, appeared to 
 be very ancient, and yet none of them were decrepid. 
 Although they were not equal to the young in muscular 
 strength, they did not come in the least behind them 
 with regard to cheerfulness and vivacity. Water, as 
 far as our navigators could discover, is the universal 
 and only liquor of the New Zealanders. It is greatly 
 to be wished, that their happiness in this respect may 
 never be destroyed by such a connexion with the Euro- 
 pean nations, as shall introduce that fondness for spiri- 
 tuous liquors, which hath been so fatal to the Indians 
 of North America. 
 
 From the observations which Lieutenant Cook and 
 his friends made on the people of New Zealand, and 
 from the similitude which was discerned between them 
 and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, a strong 
 proof arose, that both of them had one common origin ; 
 and this proof was rendered indubitable by the confor- 
 mity of their language. When Tupia addressed him- 
 self to the natives of Eaheinomauwe and Poenammoo, 
 he was perfectly understood. Indeed, it did not appear 
 that the language of Otaheite differed more from that 
 of New Zealand, than the language of the two islands, 
 into which it is divided, did from each other. 
 
 Hitherto the navigation of Lieutenant Cook had been 
 unfavourable to the notion of a southern continent ; 
 
78 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 having swept away at least three-fourths of the posi- 
 tions upon which that notion had been founded. The 
 track of the Endeavour had demonstrated, that the land 
 seen by Tasraan, Juan Fernandes, Hermite, the com- 
 mander of a Dutch squadron, Quiros, and Roggewein, 
 was not, as they had supposed, part of such a continent. 
 It had also totally destroyed the theoretical arguments 
 in favour of a southern continent, which had been 
 drawn from the necessity of it to preserve an equi- 
 librium between the two hemispheres. As, however, 
 Mr. Cook's discoveries, so far as he had already pro- 
 ceeded, extended only to the northward of forty de- 
 grees, south latitude, he could not, therefore, give an 
 opinion concerning what land might lie farther to the 
 southward. This was a matter, therefoi-e, which he 
 earnestly wished to be examined ; and to him was, at 
 lengrth reserved the honour, as we shall hereafter see, 
 
 O i • 
 
 of putting a final end to the question. 
 
 On Saturday the 31st of March, our commander sailed 
 from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, and pursued his 
 voyage to the westward. New Holland, or as it is now 
 called, New South Wales, came in sight on the 19th of 
 April ; and on the 28th of that month the ship anchored 
 in Botany Bay. On the preceding day, in consequence 
 of its falling calm when the vessel was not more than a 
 mile and a half from the shore and within some breakers, 
 our navigators had been in a very disagreeable situa^ 
 tion ; but happily a light breeze had sprung from the 
 land, and carried them out of danger. 
 
 In the afternoon the boats were manned ; and Lieu- 
 tenant Cook and his friends, having Tupia of their 
 party, set out from the Endeavour. They intended to 
 land where they had seen some Indians, and began to 
 hope, that, as these Indians had paid no regard to the 
 ship when she came into the bay, they would be as in- 
 attentive to the advances of the English towards the 
 shore. In this, however, the gentlemen were disap- 
 pointed : for as soon as they approached the rocks, 
 two of the men came down upon them to dispute their 
 landing, and the rest ran away. These champions, who 
 were armed with lances about ten feet long, called to 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 79 
 
 our navigators in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dis- 
 sonant language, of which even Tupia did not under- 
 stand a single word. At the same time, they bran- 
 dished their weapons, and seemed resolved to defend 
 their coast to the utmost, though they were but two to 
 fortv. The lieutenant, who could uot but admire their 
 courage, and who was unwilling that hostilities should 
 commence with such inequality of force on their side, 
 ordered his boat to lie upon her oars. He and the 
 other gentlemen then parlied with them by signs ; and, 
 to obtain their good will he threw them nails, beads, 
 and several trifles besides, with which they appeared 
 to be well pleased. After this our commander endea- 
 voured to make them understand that he wanted water, 
 and attempted to convince them, by all the methods in 
 his power, that he had no injurious design against them. 
 Being willing to interpret the waving of their hands as 
 an invitation to proceed, the boat put in to the shore ; 
 but no sooner was this perceived, than it was opposed 
 bv the two Indians, one of whom seemed to be a youth 
 about nineteen or twenty years old, and the other a 
 mau of middle age. The only resource now left for 
 Mr. Cook was to tire a musket between them, which 
 being done, the youngest of them brought a bundle of 
 lances on the rock, but recollecting himself in an in- 
 stant, he snatched them up again in great haste. A 
 stone was then thrown at the English, upon which the 
 lieutenant ordered a musket to be fired with small shot. 
 This struck the eldest upon the legs, and he imme- 
 diately ran to one of the houses, which was at about a 
 hundred yards distance. Mr. Cook, who now hoped 
 that the contest was over, instantly landed with his 
 party ; but they had scarcely quitted the boat when the 
 Indian returned, having only left the rock to fetch a 
 shield or target for his defence. As soon as he came 
 up, he and his comrade threw each of them a lance in 
 the midst of our people, but happily without hurting a 
 single person. At the firing of a third musket, one of 
 the two men darted another lance, and then both of 
 them ran away. After this the gentlemen repaired to 
 the huts, and threw into the house where the children 
 
80 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 were, some beads, ribbons, pieces of cloth, and other 
 presents. These they hoped would procure them the 
 good will of the inhabitants. "When, however, the lieu- 
 tenant and his companions returned the next dav, they 
 had the mortification of finding that the beads and 
 ribbons, which they had left the night before, had not 
 been removed from their places, and that not an Indian 
 was to be seen. 
 
 Several of the natives of the countrv came in sight 
 on the 30th, but thev could not be engaged to begin an 
 intercourse with our people. They approached within 
 a certain distance of them, and, after shouting several 
 times, went back into the woods. Having done this 
 once more, Mr. Cook followed them himself, alone and 
 unarmed, a considerable way along the shore, but with- 
 out prevailing upon them to stop. 
 
 On the 1st of May, he resolved to make an excur- 
 sion into the country. Accordingly, our commander, 
 Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and seven others, all of them 
 properly accoutred for the expedition, set out, and re- 
 paired first to the huts near the watering place, whither 
 some of the Indians continued every day to resort. 
 Though the little presents which had beeu left there 
 before had not vet been taken awav, our gentlemen 
 added others of still greater value, consisting of cloth, 
 beads, combs, and looking-glasses. After this they went 
 up into the countrv, the face of which is finely diversi- 
 fied by wood and lawn. The soil they found to be 
 either swamp or light sand*. 
 
 In cultivating the ground, there would be no ob- 
 struction from the trees, which are tall, straight, and 
 without underwood, and stand at a sufficient distance 
 from each other. Between the trees, the land is abun- 
 dantly covered with grass. Our voyagers saw many 
 houses of the inhabitants, but met with only one of the 
 people, who ran away as soon as he discovered the 
 English. At every place where they went they left 
 
 * In a part of the country that was afterwards examined, 
 the soil was found to be much richer ; being a deep black 
 mould, which the lieutenant thought very fit for the produc- 
 tion of grain of any kind. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 81 
 
 presents, hoping that at length they might procure the 
 confidence and good will of the Indians. They per- 
 ceived some traces of animals; and the trees over 
 their heads abounded with birds of various kinds, 
 among which were many of exquisite beauty. Lori- 
 quets and cockatoos, in particular, were so numerous, 
 that thev flew in flocks of several scores together. 
 
 While the lieutenant and his friends were upon this 
 excursion, Mr. Gore, who had been sent out in the 
 morning to dredge for oysters, having performed that 
 service, dismissed his boat, and taking a midshipman 
 with him, set out to join the waterers by land. In his 
 wav, he fell in with a body of two and twenty Indians, 
 who followed him, and were often at no greater dis- 
 tance than that of 'twenty yards. When he perceived 
 them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon which 
 they likewise stopped ; and when he went on again, 
 thev continued their pursuit. But though they were 
 all armed with lances, they did uot attack Mr. Gore; 
 so that he and the midshipman got in safety to the 
 watering-place. When the natives came in sight of 
 the main bodv of the English, thev halted at about the 
 distance of a quarter of a mile, and stood still. By this 
 Mr. Monkhouse and two or three of the waterers were 
 encouraged to march up to them ; but seeing the In- 
 dians keep their ground, they were seized with a sud- 
 den fear, which is not uncommon to the rash and fool- 
 hardy, and made a hasty retreat. This step increased 
 the danger which it was intended to avoid. Four of 
 the Indians immediately ran forward, and discharged 
 their lances at the fugitives, with such force that they 
 went beyond them. Our people, recovering their spi- 
 rits, stopped to collect the lances, upon which the na- 
 tives, in their turn, began to retire. At this time Mr. 
 Cook came up, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and 
 Tupia ; and being desirous of convincing the Indians 
 that they were neither afraid of them, nor designed to 
 do them any injury, they advanced towards them, en- 
 deavouring, by signs of expostulation and entreaty, to 
 engage them to an intercourse, but without effect. 
 
 From the boldness which the uatues discovered on 
 
 VOL. 1. G 
 
82 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 the first landing of our voyagers, and the terror that 
 afterwards seized them at the sight of the English, it 
 appears that they were sufficiently intimidated by our 
 fire arms. There was not, indeed, the least reason to 
 believe that any of them had been much hurt by the 
 small shot which had been fired at them when they 
 attacked our people on their coming out of the boat. 
 Nevertheless, they had probably seen, from their lurk- 
 ing places, the effects which the muskets had upon 
 birds. Tupia, who was become a good marksman, fre- 
 quently strayed abroad to shoot parrots ; and while he 
 was thus employed, he once met with nine Indians, 
 who, as soon as they perceived that he saw them, ran 
 from him, in great alarm and confusion. 
 
 While, on the 3d of May, Mr. Banks was gathering 
 plants near the watering-place, Lieutenant Cook went 
 with Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse, to the head of 
 the bay, for the purpose of examining that part of the 
 country, and of making further attempts to form some 
 connexions with the natives. In this excursion they 
 acquired additional knowledge concerning the nature 
 of the soil, and its capacities for cultivation, but had no 
 success in their endeavours to engage the inhabitants 
 in coming to a friendly intercourse. Several parties, 
 that were sent into the country, on the next day, with 
 the same view, were equally unsuccessful. In the after- 
 noon our commander himself, with a number of atten- 
 dants, made an excursion to the north shore, which he 
 found to be without wood, and to resemble, in some 
 degree, our moors in England. The surface of the 
 o-round was, however, covered with a thin brush of 
 plants, rising to about the height of the knee. Near 
 the coast, the hills are low, but there are others behind 
 them, which gradually ascend to a considerable dis- 
 tance, and are intersected with marshes and morasses. 
 Among the articles of fish which, at different times 
 were caught, were large stingrays. One of them, when 
 his entrails were taken out, weighed three hundred and 
 thirty-six pounds. 
 
 It was upon account of the great quantity of pi an Is 
 which Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander collected in this 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 83 
 
 place, that Lieutenant Cook was induced to give it the 
 name of Botauv Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 
 34° south, and' in the longitude of 208° 37' west ; and 
 affords a capacious, safe, and convenient shelter for 
 shipping. The Endeavour anchored near the south 
 shore, about a mile within the entrance, for the con- 
 venience of sailing with a southerly wind, and because 
 the lieutenant thought it the best situation for.water- 
 ing. But afterwards he found a very fine stream on 
 the north shore, where was a sandy cove, in which a 
 ship might lie almost land-locked, and procure wood 
 and water in the greatest abundance. Though wood is 
 every where plentiful, our commander saw only two 
 species of it that could be considered as timber. Not 
 only the inhabitants who were first discovered, but all 
 who afterwards came in sight, were entirely naked. Of 
 their mode of life, our voyagers could know but little, 
 as not the least connexion could be formed with them ; 
 but it did not appear that they were numerous, or that 
 they lived in societies. They seemed, like other ani- 
 mals, to be scattered about along the coast, and in the 
 woods. Not a single article was touched by them of 
 all that were left at their huts, or at the places which 
 they frequented ; so little sense had they of those small 
 conveniences and ornaments, which are generally very 
 alluring to the uncivilized tribes of the globe. During 
 Mr. Cook's stay at this place, he caused the English 
 colours to be displaved every day on shore, and took 
 care that the ship's name, and the date of the year, 
 should be inscribed upon one of the trees near the 
 watering-place. 
 
 At daybreak, on Sunday the 6th of May, our navi- 
 gators sailed from Botany Bay ; and as they proceeded 
 on their voyage, the lieutenant gave the names that are 
 indicated upon the map to the bays, capes, points, and 
 remarkable hills which successively appeared in sight. 
 On the 1-lth, as the Endeavour advanced to the north- 
 ward, being then in latitude 30° 22' south, and longi- 
 tude 206° 3W west, the land gradually increased in 
 height, so that it may be called a hilly country. Be- 
 tween this latitude and Botany Bay, it exhibits a 
 
84 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 pleasing variety of ridges, hills, valleys, and plains, 
 all clothed with wood, of the same appearance with 
 that which has been mentioned before. The land near 
 the shore is in general low and sandy, excepting the 
 points, which are rocky, and over many of which are 
 high hills, that, at their first rising out of the water, 
 have the semblance of islands. On the next day, the 
 vessel being about a league from the shore, our voy- 
 agers discovered smoke in many places, and having re- 
 course to their glasses, they saw about twenty of the 
 natives, who had each of them a large bundle upon his 
 back. The bundles our people conjectured to be palm 
 leaves for covering the houses of the Indians, and con- 
 tinued to observe them above an hour, during which 
 they walked upon the beach, and up a path that led 
 over a hill of gentle ascent. It was remarkable, that 
 not one of them was seen to stop and look towards the 
 Endeavour. They marched along without the least 
 apparent emotion either of curiosity or surprise, though 
 it was impossible that they should not have discerned 
 the ship, by some casual glance, as they went along 
 the shore, and though she must have been the most 
 stupendous and unaccountable object they had ever 
 beheld. . 
 
 While, on the 17th, our navigators were in a bay, to 
 which Lieutenant Cook had given the name of More- 
 ton's Bay, and at a place where the land was not at that 
 time visible, some on board, having observed that the 
 sea looked paler than usual, were of opinion that the 
 bottom of the bay opened into a river. The lieutenant 
 was sensible that there was no real ground for this sup- 
 position. As the Endeavour had here thirty-four la- 
 thom water, and a fine sandy bottom, these circum- 
 stances alone were sufficient to produce the change 
 which had been noticed in the colour of the sea. Nor 
 was it by any means necessary to suppose a river, in 
 order to account for the land at the bottom of the bay 
 not being visible. If the land there was as low as it 
 had been experienced to be in a hundred other parts 
 of the coast, it would be impossible to see it from the 
 station of the ship. Our commander would, however. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 85 
 
 have brought the matter to the test of experiment, if the 
 wind had been favourable to such a purpose. Should 
 anv future navigator be disposed to determine the 
 question, whether there is or is not a river in this place, 
 Mr. Cook has taken care to leave the best directions for 
 finding its situation. 
 
 On the 22d, as our voyagers were pursuing their 
 course from Harvey's Bay, they discovered with their 
 glasses that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, 
 which they had not seen from the time of their leaving 
 the islands within the tropic. They saw also two men 
 walking along the shore, who paid them as little atten- 
 tion, as thev had met with on former occasions. At 
 eight o'clock in the evening of this day, the ship came 
 to an anchor in five fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. 
 Early in the morning of the next day, the lieutenant, 
 accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other 
 gentlemen, Tupia, and a party of men, went on shore, 
 in order to examine the country. The wind blew 
 fresh, and the weather was so cold, that, being at a 
 considerable distance from land, they took their cloaks 
 as a necessary equipment for the voyage. When they 
 landed, they found a channel leading into a large 
 lagoon. Both the channel and the lagoon were ex- 
 amined bv our commander with his usual accuracy. 
 There is in the place a small river of fresh water, and 
 room for a few ships to lie in great security. Near the 
 lagoon grows the true mangrove, such as exists in the 
 "West India islands, and the first of the kind that had 
 been yet met with by our navigators. Among the 
 shoals and sand banks of the coast, they saw many 
 large birds, and some in particular of the same kind 
 which thev had seen in Botany Bay. These they judged 
 to be pelicans, but they were so shy as never to come 
 w ithin reach of a musket. On the shore was found a 
 species of the bustard, one of which was shot that was 
 equal in size to a turkey, weighing seventeen pounds 
 and a half. All the gentlemen agreed that this was the 
 best bird they had eaten since they left England ; and 
 in honour of it they called the inlet Bustard Bay. 
 Upon the mud banks, and under the mangroves, were 
 
86 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 innumerable oysters of various kinds, and among others 
 the hammer oyster, with a large proportion of small 
 pearl oysters. If in deeper water there should be 
 equal plenty of such oysters at their fall growth, Mr. 
 Cook was of opinion that a pearl fishery might be esta- 
 blished here to very great advantage. 
 
 The people who were left on board the ship asserted, 
 that, while the gentlemen were in the woods, about 
 twenty of the natives came down to the beach, abreast 
 of the Endeavour, and, after having looked at her for 
 some time, went away. Not a single Indian was seen 
 by the gentlemen themselves, though they found va- 
 rious proofs, in smoke, fires, and the fragments of re- 
 cent meals, that the country was inhabited. The place 
 seemed to be much trodden, and yet not a house, or 
 the remains of a house, could be discerned. Hence 
 the lieutenant and his friends were disposed to believe, 
 that the people were destitute of dwellings, as well as 
 of clothes ; and that, like the other commoners of na- 
 ture, they spent their nights in the open air. Tupia 
 himself was struck with their apparently unhappy con- 
 dition ; and shaking his head, with an air of supe- 
 riority and compassion, said that they were taata enos, 
 " poor wretches.',' 
 
 On the 25th, our voyagers, at the distance of one 
 mile from the land, were abreast of a point, which 
 Mr. Cook found to lie directlv under the tropic of 
 Capricorn ; and for this reason he called it Cape Capri- 
 corn. In the night of the next day, when the ship had 
 anchored at a place which was distant four leagues from 
 Cape Capricorn, the tide rose and fell near seven feet ; 
 and the flood set to the westward, and the ebb to the 
 eastward. This circumstance was just the reverse of 
 what had been experienced when the Endeavour was 
 at anchor to the eastward of Bustard Bay. 
 
 While our people were under sail, on the 26th, and 
 were surrounded with islands, which lay at different 
 distances from the main land, they suddenly fell into 
 three fathom of water. Upon this the lieutenant an- 
 chored, and sent away the master to sound a channel, 
 which lay between the northernmost island and the 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 87 
 
 main. Though the channel appeared to have a con- 
 siderable breadth, our commander suspected it to be 
 shallow, and such was in fact the case. The master 
 reported, at his return, that he had only two fathom 
 and a half in many places; and where the vessel lay at 
 anchor, she had only sixteen feet, which was not two 
 feet more than she drew. Mr. Banks, who, while the 
 master was sounding the channel, tried to fish from the 
 cabin window with hook and line, was successful in 
 catching two sorts of crabs, both of them such as our 
 navigators had not seen before. One of them was 
 adorned with a most beautiful blue, in every respect 
 equal to the ultramarine. With this blue all his claws 
 and joints were deeply tinged ; while the under part of 
 him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that in 
 colour and brightness it bore an exact resemblance to 
 the white of old china. The other crab was also 
 marked, though somewhat more sparingly, with the 
 ultramarine on his joints and his toes ; and on his back 
 were three brown spots of a singular appearance. 
 
 Early the next morning, Lieutenant Cook, having 
 found the passage between the islands, sailed to the 
 northward, aud, on the evening of the succeeding day, 
 anchored at about two miles distance from the main. 
 At this time a great number of islands, lying a long 
 way without the ship, were in sight. On the 29th, the 
 lieutenant sent away the master with two boats to sound 
 the entrance of an inlet, which lay to the west, and into 
 which he intended to go with the vessel, that he might 
 wait a few days for the moon's increase, and have an 
 opportunity of examining the country. As the tide 
 was observed to ebb and flow considerably, when the 
 Endeavour had anchored within the inlet, our com- 
 mander judged it to be a river, that might run pretty 
 far up into land. Thinking that this might afford a 
 commodious situation for laying the ship ashore, and 
 cleaning her bottom, he landed with the master, in 
 search of a proper place for the purpose. He was ac- 
 companied in the excursion by Mr. Banks and Dr. So- 
 lander ; and they found walking exceedingly trouble- 
 some, in consequence of the ground's being covered 
 
88 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very 
 sharp and bearded. Whenever these seeds stuck into 
 their clothes, Avhich happened at every step, they 
 worked forward by means of the beard, till they got at 
 the flesh. Another disagreeable circumstance was, that 
 the gentlemen were incessantly tormented with the 
 stings of a cloud of musquitos. They soon met with 
 several places where the ship might conveniently be 
 laid ashore ; but were much disappointed in not being 
 able to find any fresh water. In proceeding up the 
 country they found gum trees, the gum upon which 
 existed only in very small quantities. Gum trees of a 
 similar kind, and as little productive, had occurred in 
 other parts of the coast of New South Wales. Upon 
 the branches of the trees were ants' nests, made of clay, 
 as big as a bushel. The ants themselves, by which the 
 nests were inhabited, were small, and their bodies 
 white. Upon another species of the gum tree, was 
 found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, 
 and, having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe in 
 which it had been contained. Notwithstanding this, 
 the parts in which these insects, to an amazing number, 
 had formed a lodgment, bore leaves and flowers, and 
 appeared to be entirely in a flourishing state. Butter- 
 flies were found in such multitudes, that the account of 
 them seems almost to be incredible. The air was so 
 crowded with them, for the space of three or four acres, 
 that millions might be seen in every direction ; and the 
 branches and twigs of the trees were at the same time 
 covered with others that were not upon the wing. A 
 small fish of a singular kind was likewise met with in 
 this place. Its size was about that of a minnow, and 
 it had two very strong breast-fins. It was found in 
 places which were quite dry, and where it might be 
 supposed that it had been left by the tide ; and yet it 
 did not appear to have become languid from that cir- 
 cumstance : for when it was approached, it leaped away 
 as nimbly as a frog. Indeed it did not seem to prefer 
 water to land. 
 
 Though the curiosity of Mr. Cook and his friends 
 was gratified by the sight of these various objects, they 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 89 
 
 were disappointed in the attainment of their main pur- 
 pose, the discovery of fresh water ; and a second ex- 
 cursion, which was made by them on the afternoon of 
 the same dav, was equally unsuccessful. The failure 
 of the lieutenant's hopes determined him to make but 
 a short stay in the place. Having, how ever, observed 
 from an eminence, that the inlet penetrated a consider- 
 able wav into the country, he formed a resolution of 
 tracing "it in the morning. Accordingly, at sunrise, 
 on Wednesday the 30th of May, he went on shore, and 
 took a view of the coast and the islands that lie off it, 
 with their bearings. For this purpose he had with 
 him an azimuth compass ; but he found, that the needle 
 differed very considerably in its position, even to thirty 
 degrees ; the variation being in some places more, in 
 others less. Once the needle varied from itself no less 
 than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. Mr. 
 Cook having taken up some of the loose stones which 
 lav upon the ground, applied them to the needle, but 
 they produced no effect ; whence he concluded that in 
 the hills there was iron ore, traces of which he had re- 
 marked both here and in the neighbouring parts. After 
 he had made his observations upon the hill, he pro- 
 ceeded with Dr. Solander up the inlet. He set out 
 with the first of the flood, and had advanced above 
 eight leagues, long before it was high water. The 
 breadth of the inlet, thus far, was from two to five 
 miles, upon a direction south-west by south ; but here 
 it opened every way, and formed a large lake, which 
 to the north- w'est communicated with the sea. Our 
 commander not only saw the sea in this direction, but 
 found the tide of flood coming strongly in from that 
 point. He observed, also, an arm of this lake extend- 
 ing to the eastward. Hence he thought it not impro- 
 bable, that it might communicate with the sea in the 
 bottom of the bay, which lies to the westward of the 
 Cape, that on the chart is designated by the name of 
 Cape Townshend. On the south side of the lake is a 
 ridge of hills which the lieutenant was desirous of 
 climbing. As, however, it was high water, and the day 
 was far spent ; and as the weather, in particular, was 
 
90 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 dark and rainy, he was afraid of being bewildered 
 among the shoals in the night, and therefore was 
 obliged to give up his inclination, and to make the 
 best of his way to the ship. Two people only were 
 seen by him, who followed the boat along the shore a 
 good way at some distance ; but he could not prudently 
 wait for them, as the tide ran strongly in his favour. 
 Several fires in one direction, and smoke in another, 
 exhibited farther proofs of the country's being in a 
 certain degree inhabited. 
 
 While Mr. Cook, with Dr. Solander, was tracing the 
 inlet, Mr. Banks and a party with him engaged in a 
 separate excursion, in which they had not proceeded 
 far within land, before their course was obstructed by a 
 swamp, covered with mangroves. This, however, they 
 determined to pass ; and having done it with great dif- 
 ficulty, they came up to a place where there had been 
 four small fires, near to which lay some shells and bones 
 of fish, that had been roasted. Heaps of grass were 
 also found lying together, on which four or five people 
 appeared to have slept. Mr. Gore, in another place, 
 observed the track of a large animal. Some bustards 
 were likewise seen, but not any other bird, excepting 
 a few beautiful loriquets, of the same kind with those 
 which had been noticed in Botany Bay. The country 
 in general, in this part of New South Wales, appeared 
 sandy and barren, and destitute of the accommodations 
 which could fit it for being possessed by settled inha- 
 bitants. From the ill success that attended the search- 
 ing for fresh water, Lieutenant Cook called the inlet 
 in which the ship lay Thirsty Sound. No refreshment 
 of any other sort was here procured by our voyagers. 
 
 Our commander, not having a single inducement to 
 stay longer in this place, weighed anchor in the morn- 
 ing of the 31st, and put to sea. In the prosecution of 
 the voyage, when the Endeavour was close under Cape 
 Upstart, the variation of the needle, at sunset, on the 
 4th of June, was 9° east, and at sunrise the next day, 
 it was no more than 5° 35'. Hence the lieutenant con- 
 cluded, that it had been influenced by iron ore, or by 
 some other magnetical matter contained under the sur- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 91 
 
 face of the earth. In the afternoon of the 7th, our na- 
 vigators saw upon one of the islands what had the ap- 
 pearance of cocoanut trees ; and as a few nuts would 
 at this time have been very acceptable, Mr. Cook sent 
 Lieutenant Hicks ashore, to see if he could procure 
 any refreshment. He was accompanied by Mr. Banks 
 and Dr. Solander ; and in the evening the gentlemen 
 returned, with an account that what had been taken for 
 cocoanut trees were a small kind of cabbage-palm, 
 and that, excepting about fourteen or fifteen plants, 
 nothing could be obtained which was worth bringing 
 away. On the 8th, when the Endeavour was in the 
 midst of a cluster of small islands, our voyagers dis- 
 cerned, with their glasses, upon one of the nearest of 
 these islands, about thirty of the natives, men, women, 
 and children, all standing together, and looking with 
 great attention at the ship. This was the first instance 
 of curiosity that had been observed among the people 
 of the country. The present Indian spectators were 
 entirelv naked. Their hair was short, and their com- 
 plexion the same with that of such of the inhabitants as 
 had been seen before. 
 
 In navigating the coast of New South Wales, where 
 the sea in all parts conceals shoals, which suddenly 
 project from the shore, and rocks, that rise abruptly 
 like a pvramid from the bottom, our commander had 
 hitherto" conducted his vessel in safety, for an extent of 
 two and twenty degrees of latitude, being more than 
 one thousand three hundred miles. But, on the 10th 
 of June, as he was pursuing his course from a bay to 
 which he had given the name of Trinity Bay, the En- 
 deavour fell into a situation, as critical and dangerous, 
 as any that is recorded in the history of navigation ; a 
 history which abounds with perilous adventures, and 
 almost miraculous escapes. Our voyagers were now 
 near the latitude assigned to the islands that were dis- 
 covered bv Quiros, and which, without sufficient rea- 
 son, some geographers have thought proper to join to 
 this land. The ship had the advantage of a fine breeze, 
 and a clear moonlight night ; and in standing off from 
 six till near nine o'clock, she had deepened her water 
 
92 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 from fourteen to twenty-one fathom. But while our 
 navigators were at supper, it suddenly shoaled, and 
 they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, within the 
 compass of a few minutes. Mr. Cook immediately 
 ordered every man to his station, and all was ready to 
 put about and come to an anchor, when deep water 
 being met with again at the next cast of the lead, it 
 was concluded that the vessel had gone over the tail of 
 the shoals which had been seen at sunset, and that the 
 danger was now over. The idea of security was con- 
 firmed by the water's continuing to deepen to twenty 
 and twenty-one fathoiu, so that the gentlemen left the 
 deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed. However, 
 a little before eleven, the water shoaled at once from 
 twenty to seventeen fathom, and before the lead could 
 be cast again, the ship struck, and remained immove- 
 able, excepting so far as she was influenced by the 
 heaving of the surge, that beat her against the crags of 
 the rock upon which she lay. A few moments brought 
 every person upon deck, with countenances suited to 
 the horrors of the situation. As our people knew, from 
 the breeze which they had in the evening, that they 
 could not be very near the shore, there was too much 
 reason to conclude, that they were upon a rock of 
 coral, which, on account of the sharpness of its points, 
 and the roughness of its surface, is more fatal than any 
 other. On examining the depth of water round the 
 ship, it was speedily discovered that the misfortune 
 of our voyagers was equal to their apprehensions. The 
 vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock, and lay 
 in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow 
 there were from three to four fathom, and in others 
 not so many feet of water. To complete the scene of 
 distress, it appeared, from the light of the moon, that 
 the sheathing boards from the bottom of the thip were 
 floating away all round her, and at last her false keel ; 
 so that ever}' moment was making way for the whole 
 company's being swallowed up by the rushing in of the 
 sea. There was now no chance but to lighten her, and 
 the opportunity had unhappily been lost of doing it to 
 the best advantage; for, as the Endeavour had gone 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 93 
 
 ashore just at high water, and by this time it had con- 
 siderably fallen, she would, when lightened, be but in 
 the same situation as at first. The only alleviation of 
 this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed, the ves- 
 sel settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against 
 them with so much violence. Our people had, indeed, 
 some hope from the next tide, though it was doubtful 
 whether the ship would hold together so long, espe- 
 cially as the rock kept grating part of her bottom with 
 such force as to be heard in the fore storeroom. No 
 effort, however, was remitted from despair of success. 
 That no time might be lost, the water was immediately 
 started in the hold, and pumped up ; six guns, being all 
 that were upon the deck, a quantity of iron and stone 
 ballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and 
 a variety of things besides, were thrown overboard with 
 the utmost expedition. Every one exerted himself, not 
 only without murmuring and discontent, but even with 
 an alacrity which almost approached to cheerfulness. 
 So sensible, at the same time, were the men of the 
 awfulness of their situation, that not an oath was heard 
 among them, the detestable habit of profane swearing 
 being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt 
 when a speedy death was in view. 
 
 "When Lieutenant Cook and all the people about him 
 were thus employed, the opening of the morning of the 
 11th of June presented them with a fuller prospect of 
 their danger. The land was seen by them at about 
 eight leagues distance, without any island in the inter- 
 mediate space, upon which, if the ship had gone to 
 pieces, they might have been set ashore by the boats, 
 and carried thence by different turns to the main. 
 Gradually, however, the wind died away, and, early in 
 the forenoon, it became a dead calm ; a circumstance 
 this, peculiarly happy in the order of Divine Provi- 
 dence ; for if it had blown hard, the vessel must inevi- 
 tably have been destroyed. High water being expected 
 at eleven in the morning, and every thing being made 
 ready to heave her off if she should float ; to the inex- 
 pressible surprise and concern of our navigators, so 
 much did the day tide fall short of that of the night, 
 
94 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 that though they had lightened the ship nearly fifty 
 ton, she did not float by a foot and a half. Hence it 
 became necessary to lighten her still more, and every 
 thing was thrown overboard that could possibly be 
 spared. Hitherto the Endeavour had not admitted 
 much water ; but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, 
 that she could scarcely be kept free, though two pumps 
 were incessantly worked. There were now no hopes 
 but from the tide at mfdnight ; to prepare for taking 
 the advantage of which the most vigorous efforts were 
 exerted. About five o'clock in the afternoon the tide 
 began to rise, but, at the same time, the leak increased 
 to a most alarming degree. Two more pumps, there- 
 fore, were manned, one of which unhappily would not 
 work. Three pumps, however, were kept going, and 
 at nine o'clock the ship righted. Nevertheless, the 
 leak had gained so considerably upon her, that it was 
 imagined that she must go to the bottom, as soon as 
 she ceased to be supported by the rock. It was, in- 
 deed, a dreadful circumstance to our commander and 
 his people, that they were obliged to anticipate the 
 floating of the vessel, not as an earnest of their deliver- 
 ance, but as an event which probably would precipi- 
 tate their destruction. They knew that their boats 
 were not capable of carrying the whole of them on 
 shore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, 
 all command and subordination being at an end, a con- 
 test for preference might be expected, which would in- 
 crease even the horrors of shipwreck, and turn their 
 rage against each other. Some of them were sensible 
 that if they should escape to the main land, they were 
 likely to suffer more upon the whole, than those who 
 would be left on board to perish in the waves. The 
 latter would only be exposed to instant death ; whereas 
 the former, when they got on shore, would have no 
 lasting or effectual defence against the natives, in a 
 part of the country where even nets and fire-arms could 
 scarcely furnish them with food. But supposing that 
 they should find the means of subsistence ; how hor- 
 rible must be their state, to be condemned to languish 
 out the remainder of their lives in a desolate wilder- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 95 
 
 ness, without the possession or hope of domestic com- 
 fort ; and to be cut off from all commerce with man- 
 kind, excepting that of the naked savages, who prowl 
 the desert, and who perhaps are some of the most rude 
 and uncivilized inhabitants of the earth ! 
 
 The dreadful moment which was to determine the 
 fate of our voyagers now drew on ; and every one saw, 
 in the countenances of his companions, the picture of 
 his own sensations. Not, however, giving way to de- 
 spair, the lieutenant ordered the capstan and windlass 
 to be manned with as many hands as could be spared 
 from the pumps, and the "ship having floated about 
 twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the grand effort was 
 made," and she was heaved into deep water. It was no 
 small consolation to find, that she did not now admit 
 of more water than she had done when upon the rock. 
 By the gaining, indeed, of the leak upon the pumps, 
 three feet and nine inches of water were in the hold ; 
 notwithstanding which, the men did not relinquish 
 their labour. Thus they held the water as it were at 
 bay : but having endured excessive fatigue of body, and 
 agitation of mind, for more than twenty-four hours, 
 and all this being attended with little hope of final 
 success, they began, at length, to flag. None of them 
 could work at the pump above five or six minutes to- 
 gether, after w hich, being totally exhausted, they threw 
 themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of 
 water, between three or four inches deep, was running 
 over it from the pumps. When those w ho succeeded 
 them had worked their time, and in their turn were 
 exhausted, they threw themselves down in the same 
 manner, and the others started up again, to renew 
 their labour. While thus they were employed in re 
 lie dug each other, an accident was very nearly putting 
 an immediate end to all their efforts. The planking 
 which lines the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, be- 
 tween which and the outside planking there is a space 
 of about eighteen inches. From this ceiling only, the 
 man who had hitherto attended the well had taken the 
 rlepth of the water, and had given the measure accord- 
 ingly. But, upon his being relieved, the person who 
 
96 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 came in his room reckoned the depth to the outside 
 planking, which had the appearance of the leak's having 
 gained upon the pumps eighteen inches in a few mi- 
 nutes. The mistake, however, was soon detected ; and 
 the accident, which in its commencement was very for- 
 midable to them, became, in fact, highly advantageous. 
 Such was the joy which every man felt, at finding his 
 situation better than his fears had suggested, that it 
 operated with wonderful energy, and seemed to possess 
 him with a strong persuasion that scarcely any real 
 danger remained. New confidence and new hope in- 
 spired fresh vigour ; and the efforts of the men were 
 exerted with so much alacrity and spirit, tfcat before 
 eight o'clock in the morning the pumps had gained 
 considerably upon the leak. All the conversation now 
 turned upon carrying the ship into some harbour, as a 
 thing not to be doubted ; and as hands could be spared 
 from the pumps, they w ere employed in getting up the 
 anchors. It being found impossible to save the little 
 bower anchor, it was cut away at a whole cable, and the 
 cable of the stream anchor was lost among the rocks ; 
 but, in the situation of our people, these were trifles 
 which scarcely attracted their notice. The fore top- 
 mast and fore yard were next erected, and there being 
 a breeze from the sea, the Endeavour, at eleven o'clock, 
 got once more under sail, and stood for the land. 
 
 Notwithstanding these favourable circumstances, our 
 voyagers were still very far from being in a state of 
 safety. It was not possible long to continue the labour 
 by which the pumps had been made to gain upon the 
 leak ; and as the exact place of it could not be disco- 
 vered, there was no hope of stopping it within. At 
 this crisis, Mr. Monkhouse, one of the midshipmen, 
 came to Lieutenant Cook, and proposed an expedient 
 he had once seen used on board a merchant ship, which 
 had sprung a leak that admitted more than four feet 
 water in an hour, and which by this means had been 
 safely brought from Virginia to London. To Mr. 
 Monkhouse, therefore, the care of the expedient, which 
 is called fothering the ship, was, with proper assistance, 
 committed ; and his method of proceeding was as lol- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 97 
 
 lows. He took a lower studding sail, and having 
 mixed together a large quantitj of oakum and wool, 
 he stitched it down as lightly as possible, in handfuls 
 upon the sail, and spread over it the dung of the sheep 
 of the vessel, and other filth. The sail being thus pre- 
 pared, it was hauled under the ship's bottom by ropes, 
 which kept it extended. When it came under the leak, 
 the suction that carried in the water, carried in with it 
 the oakum and wool from the surface of the sail. In 
 other parts the water was not sufficiently agitated to 
 wash off the oakum and the wool. The success of the 
 expedient was answerable to the warmest expectations ; 
 for hereby the leak was so far reduced, that, instead of 
 gaining upon three pumps, it was easily kept under 
 with one. Here was such a new source of confidence 
 and comfort, that our people could scarcely have ex- 
 pressed more joy, if they had been already in port. It 
 had latelv been the utmost object of their hope, to run 
 the ship ashore in some harbour, either of an island or 
 the main, and to build a vessel out of her materials, to 
 carry them to the East Indies. Nothing, however, was 
 now thought of but to range along the coast in search 
 of a convenient place to repair the damage the Endea- 
 vour had sustained, and tiien to prosecute the voyage 
 upon the same plan as if no impediment had happened. 
 In justice and gratitude to the ships company, and the 
 gentlemen on board, Mr. Cook has recorded, that al- 
 though in the midst of their distress all of them seemed 
 to have a just sense of their danger, no man gave way 
 to passionate exclamations, or frantic gestures. " Every 
 one appeared to have the perfect possession of his mind, 
 and every one exerted himself to the utmost, with a 
 quiet and patient perseverance, equally distant from the 
 tumultuous violence of terror, and the gloomy inac- 
 tivity of despair.'" Though the lieutenant hath said 
 nothing of himself, it is well known tkat his own com- 
 posure, fortitude, and activity, were equal to the great- 
 ness of the occasion. 
 
 To complete the history of this wonderful preserva- 
 tion, it is necessary to bring forward a circumstance, 
 which could not be discovered till the ship was laid 
 
 VOL. I. H 
 
98 CAPTAIN COOK S 
 
 xlown to be repaired. It was then found, that one of 
 her holes, which was large enough to have sunk our 
 navigators, if they had had eight pumps instead of four, 
 and had been able to keep them incessantly going, was 
 in a great measure filled up by a fragment of the rock, 
 upon which the Endeavour had struck. To this singu- 
 lar event, therefore, it was owing, that the water did 
 not pour in with a violence, which must speedily have 
 involved the Endeavour and all her company in inevi- 
 table destruction. 
 
 Hitherto none of the names, by which our commander 
 had distinguished the several parts of the country seen 
 by him, were memorials of distress. But the anxiety 
 and danger, which he and his people had now expe- 
 rienced, induced him to call a point in sight, which lay 
 to the northward, Cape Tribulation. 
 
 The next object, after this event, was to look out for 
 a harbour, where the defects of the ship might be re- 
 paired, and the vessel put into proper order for future 
 navigation. On the 14th, a small harbour was happily 
 discovered, which was excellently adapted to the pur- 
 pose. It was, indeed, remarkable, that, during the 
 whole course of the voyage, our people had seen no 
 place which, in their present circumstances, could have 
 afforded them the same relief. They could not, how- 
 ever, immediately get into it ; and in the midst of all 
 their joy for their unexpected deliverance, they had 
 not forgotten that there was nothing but a lock of wool 
 between them and destruction. 
 
 At this time, the scurvy, with many formidable 
 symptoms, began to make its appearance among our 
 navigators. Tupia, in particular, was so grievously 
 affected with the disease, that all the remedies pre- 
 scribed by the surgeon could not retard its progress. 
 Mr. Green, the astronomer, was also upon the decline. 
 These and other circumstances embittered the delay 
 which prevented our commander and his companions 
 from getting on shore. In the morning of the 17th, 
 though the wind was still fresh, the lieutenant ventured 
 to weigh, and to put in for the harbour, the entrance 
 into which was by a very narrow channel. In making 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 99 
 
 the attempt, the ship was twice run aground. At the 
 first time, she went off without any trouhle, but the 
 second time, she stuck fast. Nevertheless, bj proper 
 exertions, in conjunction with the rising of the tide, 
 she floated about one o'clock in the afternoon, and was 
 soon warped into the harbour. The succeeding day 
 was employed in erecting two tents, in landing the 
 provisions and stores, and in making every preparation 
 for repairing the damages which the Endeavour had 
 sustained. In the meanwhile, Mr. Cook, who had 
 ascended one of the highest hills that overlooked the 
 harbour, was by no means entertained with a comfort- 
 able prospect ; the low land near the river being wholly 
 overrun with mangroves, among which the salt water 
 flows at every tide, and the high land appearing to be 
 altogether stony and barren. Mr. Banks also took a 
 walk up the countrv, and met with the frames of several 
 old Indian houses, and places where the natives, though 
 not recently, had dressed shell fish. The boat, which 
 had this day been dispatched to haul the seine, with a 
 view of procuring some fish for the refreshment of the 
 sick, returned without success. Tupia was more for- 
 tunate. Having employed himself in angling, and lived 
 entirely upon what he caught, he recovered in a sur- 
 prising degree. Mr. Green, to the regret of his friends, 
 exhibited no symptoms of returning health. 
 
 On the 19th, Mr. Banks crossed the river, to take a 
 farther view of the country ; which he found to consist 
 principally of sand hills. Some Indian houses were 
 seen by him, that appeared to have been v ery lately 
 inhabited ; and in his walk he met with large flocks of 
 pigeons and crows. The pigeons were exceedingly 
 beautiful. Of these he shot several ; but the crows, 
 which were exactly like those in England, were so shy, 
 that thev never came within the reach of his gun. 
 
 It was not till the 22d, that the tide so far left the 
 Endeavour, as to give our people an opportunity of 
 examining her leak. In the place where it was found, 
 the rocks had made their way through four planks, and 
 even into the timbers. Three more planks were greatly 
 damaged, and there was something very extraordinary 
 
100 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 in the appearance of the breaches. Not a splinter was 
 to be seen, bnt all was as smooth as if the whole had 
 been cut away by an instrument. It was a peculiarly 
 happy circumstance, that the timbers were here very 
 close, since otherwise the ship could not possibly have 
 been saved. Now also it was that the fragment of the 
 rock was discovered, which, by sticking in the leak of 
 the vessel, had been such a providential instrument of 
 her preservation. 
 
 On the same day, some of the people who bad been 
 sent to shoot pigeons for the sick, and who had dis- 
 covered manv Indian houses, and a fine stream of fresh 
 water, reported at their return, that they had seen an 
 animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, of a 
 mouse colour, and extremely swift. As the lieutenant 
 was walking, on the morning of the 24th, at a little 
 distance from the ship, he had an opportunity of seeing 
 an animal of the same kind. From the description he 
 gave of it, and from an imperfect view which occurred 
 to Mr. Banks, the latter gentleman was of opinion that 
 its species was hitherto unknown. 
 
 The position of the vessel, while she was refitting for 
 sea, was very near depriving the world of that botanical 
 knowledge, which Mr. Banks had procured at the ex- 
 pense of so much labour, and such various perils. For 
 the greater security of the curious collection of plants 
 which he had made during the whole voyage, he had 
 removed them into the bread room. This room is in 
 the after part of the ship, the head of which, for the 
 purpose of repairing her, was laid much higher than the 
 stern. No one having thought of the danger to which 
 this circumstance might expose the plants, they were 
 found to be under water. However, by the exercise 
 of unremitting care and attention, the larger part of 
 them were restored to a state of preservation. 
 
 On the 29th of June, at two o'clock in the morning, 
 Mr. Cook, in conjunction wnth Mr. Green, observed 
 an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite. The time here 
 was 2 h 18' 53", which gave the longitude of the place 
 at 214° 42' 30" west : its latitude is 15° 26' south. The 
 next moruing the lieutenant sent some of the young 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 101 
 
 gentlemen to take a plan of the harbour, whilst he him- 
 self ascended a hill, that he might gain a full prospect 
 of the sea : and it was a prospect which presented him 
 with a lively view of the difficulties of his situation. 
 To his great concern he saw innumerable sand-banks 
 and shoals, lying in every direction of the coast. Some 
 of them extended as far as he could discern with his 
 glass, and many of them did but just rise above water. 
 To the northward there was an appearance of a pas- 
 sage, and this was the only direction in which our com- 
 mander could hope to get clear, in the prosecution of 
 his voyage ; for, as the wind blew constantly from the 
 south-east, to return by the southward would have been 
 extremely difficult, if not absolutely impossible. On 
 this, and the preceding day, our people had been very 
 successful in hauling the seine. The supply of fish A\as 
 so great, that the lieutenant w as now able to distribute 
 two pounds and a half to each man. A quantity of 
 greens having likewise been gathered, he ordered them 
 to be boiled with the peas. Hence an excellent mess 
 was produced, which, in conjunction with the fish, 
 afforded an unspeakable refreshment to the whole of 
 the ship's company. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant 
 Cook sent the master out of the harbour, in the pinnace, 
 to sound about the shoals, and to search for a channel 
 to the northward. A second attempt, which was made 
 this day, to heave off the ship, was as unsuccessful as a 
 former one had been. The next day the master re- 
 turned, and reported, that he had found a passage out 
 to sea, between the shoals. On one of these shoals, 
 which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dry 
 at low water, he had landed, and found there cockles, 
 of so enormous a size, that a single cockle was more 
 than two men could eat. At the same place he met 
 with a great variety of other shell fish, and brought 
 back with him a plentiful supply for the use of his fel- 
 low vovagers. At high water, this day, another effort 
 was made to float the ship, which happily succeeded ; 
 but it being found, that she had sprung a plank be- 
 tween decks, it became necessary to lay her ashore a 
 
102 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 second time. The lieutenant, being anxious to attain 
 a perfect knowledge of the state of the vessel, got one 
 of the carpenter's crew, a man in whom he could con- 
 fide, to dive, on the. 5th, to her bottom, that he might 
 examine the place where the sheathing had been rubbed 
 off. His report, which was, that three streaks of the 
 sheathing, about eight feet long, were wanting, and 
 that the main plank had been a little rubbed, was per- 
 fectly agreeable to the account that had been given be- 
 fore by the master and others, who had made the same 
 examination ; and our commander had the consolation 
 of finding, that, in the opinion of the carpenter, this 
 matter would be of little consequence. The other 
 damage, therefore, being repaired, the ship was again 
 floated at high water, and all hands were employed in 
 taking the stores on board, and in putting her into a 
 condition for proceeding on her vo}age. To the har- 
 bour in which she was refitted for the sea, Mr. Cook 
 gave the name of the Endeavour River. 
 
 On the morning of the 6th, Mr. Banks, accompanied 
 by Lieutenant Gore, and three men, set out in a small 
 boat up the river, with a view of spending a few days 
 in examining the country. In this expedition nothing 
 escaped his notice, which related either to the natural 
 history or the inhabitants of the places he visited. 
 Though he met with undoubted proofs, that several of 
 the natives were at no great distance, none of them 
 came within sight. Having found, upon the whole, 
 that the country did not promise much advantage from 
 a farther search, he and his party reembarked in their 
 boat, and returned, on the 8th, to the ship. During 
 their excursion, they had slept upon the ground in 
 perfect security, and without once reflecting upon the 
 danger they would have incurred, if, in that situation, 
 they had been discovered by the Indians. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook had not been satisfied with the 
 account which the master had given of his having 
 traced a passage between the shoals, into the sea. He 
 sent him out, therefore, a second time, upon the same 
 business ; and, on his return, he made a different re- 
 port. Having been seven leagues out at sea, the mas- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 103 
 
 ter was now of opiniou, that there was no such passage 
 as he had before imagined. His expedition, however, 
 though in this respect unsuccessful, was not wholly 
 without its advantage. On the very rock where he 
 had seen the large cockles, he met with a great number 
 of turtle ; and though he had no better an instrument 
 than a boat-hook, three of them were caught, which 
 together weighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds. 
 An attempt, which, by order of the lieutenant, was 
 made the next morning to obtain some more turtle, 
 failed, through the misconduct of the same officer, who 
 had been so fortunate on the preceding day. 
 
 Hitherto the natives of this part of the country had 
 eagerly avoided holding any intercourse with our 
 people : but at length their minds, through the good 
 management of Mr. Cook, became more favourably 
 disposed. Four of them having appeared, on the 10th, 
 in a small canoe, and seeming to be busily employed in 
 striking fish, some of the ship's company were for 
 going over to them in a boat. This, however, the lieu- 
 tenant would not permit, repeated experience having 
 convinced him that it was more likely to prevent than 
 to procure an interview. He determined to pursue a 
 contrary method, and to try what could be done by 
 letting them alone, and not appearing to make them, 
 in the least degree, the objects of his notice. So suc- 
 cessful was this plan, that after some preparatory inter- 
 course, they came alongside the ship, without express- 
 ing any fear or distrust. The conference was carried 
 on, by signs, with the utmost cordiality till dinner- 
 time, when, being invited by our people to go with 
 them and partake of their provision, they declined it, 
 and went away in their canoe. One of these Indians 
 was somewhat above the middle age ; the three others 
 were young. Their stature was of the common size, 
 but their limbs were remarkably small. The colour of 
 their skin was a dark chocolate. Their hair was black, 
 but not woolly ; and their features were far from being 
 disagreeable. They had lively eyes, and their teeth 
 were even and white. The tones of their voices were 
 soft and musical, and there was a flexibility in their 
 
104 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 organs of speech, which enabled them to repeat, with 
 great facility many of the words pronounced by the 
 English. 
 
 On the next morning, our voyagers had another visit 
 from four of the natives., Three of them were the same 
 who had appeared the day before, but the fourth was 
 a stranger, to whom his companions gave the name of 
 Yaparico. He was distinguished by a very peculiar 
 ornament. This was the bone of a bird, nearly as thick 
 as a man's finger, and five or six inches long, which he 
 had thrust into a hole, made in the gristle that divides 
 the nostrils. An instance of the like kind, and only one, 
 had been seen in New Zealand. It was found, however, 
 that among all these people the same part of the nose 
 was perforated ; that they had holes in their ears ; and 
 that they had bracelets, made of plaited hair, upon the 
 upper part of their arms. Thus the love of ornament 
 takes place among them, though they are absolutely 
 destitute of apparel. 
 
 Three Indians, on the 12th, ventured down to Tupia's 
 tent, and were so well pleased with their reception, 
 that one of them went with his canoe to fetch two 
 others, who had never been seen by the English. On 
 his return, he introduced the strangers by name, a 
 ceremony which was never omitted upon such occa- 
 sions. From a farther acquaintance with the natives, 
 it was found, that the colour of their skins was not so 
 dark as had at first been apprehended, and that all of 
 them were remarkably clean limbed, and extremely 
 active and nimble. Their language appeared to be more 
 harsh than that of the islanders in the South Sea. 
 
 On the 14th, Mr. Gore had the good fortune to kill 
 one of the animals before mentioned, and which had 
 been the subject of much speculation. It is called by 
 the natives Kanguroo ; and when dressed proved most 
 excellent meat. Indeed, our navigators might now be 
 said to fare sumptuously every day ; for they had turtle 
 in great plentv, and it was agreed that these were far 
 superior to any which our people had ever tasted in 
 England. This the gentlemen justly imputed to their 
 being eaten fresh from the sea, before their natural fat 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 105 
 
 had been wasted, or their juices changed, by the situa- 
 tion and diet they are exposed to when kept in tubs. 
 Most of the turtle here caught were of the kind called 
 green turtle, and their weight was from two to three 
 hundred pounds. 
 
 In the morning of the 16th, while the men were en- 
 gaged in their usual employment of getting the ship 
 ready for the sea, our commander climbed one of the 
 heisrhts on the north side of the river, and obtained 
 from it an extensive view of the inland country, which 
 he found agreeably diversified by hills, valleys, and 
 large plains, that in many places were richly covered 
 with wood. This evening, the lieutenant and Mr. 
 Green observed an emersion of the first satellite of 
 Jupiter, which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude. The 
 observation taken on the 29th of June had given 214° 
 48' 30" ; and the mean was 214° 48' 7f", being the 
 longitude of the place west of Greenwich. 
 
 On the 17th, Mr. Cook sent the master and one of 
 the mates in the pinnace, to search for a channel north- 
 ward ; after which, accompanied by Mr. Banks and 
 Dr. Solander, he went into the woods on the other 
 side of the water. In this excursion, the gentlemen 
 had a farther opportunity of improving their acquaint- 
 ance with the Indians, who by degrees became so 
 familiar that several of them the next day, ventured 
 on board the ship. There the lieutenant left them, 
 apparently much entertained, that he might go with 
 Mr. Banks to take a farther survey of the countrv, and 
 especially to indulge an anxious curiosity they had of 
 looking round about them upon the sea ; of which they 
 earnestly wished, but scarcely dared to hope, that thev 
 might obtain a favourable and encouraging prospect. 
 "W hen, after having walked along the shore seven or 
 eisrht miles to the northward, thev ascended a verv Irish 
 hill, the view which presented itself to them inspired 
 nothing but melancholv apprehensions. In every direc- 
 tion they saw rocks and shoals without number ; and 
 there appeared to be no passage out to sea, but through 
 the winding channels between them, the navigation of 
 which could not be accomplished without the utmost 
 
106 CAPTAIN COOK S 
 
 degree of difficulty and danger. The spirits of the two 
 gentlemen were not raised by this excursion. 
 
 On the 19th, our voyagers were visited by ten of the 
 uatives : and six or seven more were seen at a distance, 
 chiefly women, who were as naked as the male inhabi- 
 tants of the country. There being at that time a num- 
 ber of turtles on the deck of the ship, the Indians who 
 came on board were determined to get one of them ; 
 and expressed great disappointment and anger, when 
 our people refused to comply with their wishes. Seve- 
 ral attempts were made by tbem to secure what they 
 wanted by force ; but all their efforts proving unsuc- 
 cessful, they suddenly leaped into their canoe in a 
 transport of rage, and paddled towards the shore. The 
 lieutenant, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the ship's 
 crew, immediately went into the boat, and got ashore, 
 where many of the English were engaged in various 
 employments. As soon as the natives reached the land, 
 they seized their arms, which had been laid up in a 
 tree, and having snatched a brand from under a pitch- 
 kettle that was boiling, made a circuit to the windward 
 of the few things our people had on shore, and with 
 surprising quickness and dexterity set fire to the grass 
 in their way. The grass, which was as dry as stubble, 
 and five or "six feet high, burned with surprising fury ; 
 and a tent of Mr. Banks's would have been destroyed 
 if that gentleman had not immediately got some of the 
 men to save it, by hauling it down upon the beach. 
 Every part of the smith's forge that would burn was 
 consumed. This transaction was followed by another 
 of the same nature. In spite of threats and entreaties, 
 the Indians went to a different place, where several of 
 the Endeavour's crew were washing, and vyhere the 
 seine, the other nets, and a large quantity of linen were 
 laid out to dry, and again set fire to the grass. The 
 audacity of this fresh attack rendered it necessary that 
 a musket, loaded with small shot, should be discharged 
 at one of them ; who being wounded at the distance of 
 about fortv yards, they all betook themselves to flight. 
 In the last instance the fire was extinguished before it 
 had made any considerable progress ; but where it had 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 107 
 
 first began, it spread far into the woods. The natives 
 being still in sight, Mr. Cook, to convince them that 
 they had not yet gotten out of his reach, fired a musket, 
 charged with ball, abreast of them among the man- 
 groves, upon whieh they quickened their pace, and 
 were soon out of view. It was now expected that 
 they would have given our navigators no farther trou- 
 ble ; but in a little time their voices were heard in the 
 woods, and it was perceived that they came nearer 
 and nearer. The lieutenant, therefore, together with 
 Mr. Banks, and three or four more persons, set out to 
 meet them ; and the result of the interview, in conse- 
 quence of the prudent and lenient conduct of our com- 
 mander and his friends, was a complete reconciliation. 
 Soon after the Indians went away, the woods were seen 
 to be on fire at the distance of about two miles. This 
 accident, if it had happened a little sooner, might have 
 produced dreadful effects ; for the powder had been 
 but a few days on board, and it was not many hours 
 that the store tent, with all the valuable things con- 
 tained in it had been removed. From the fury with 
 which the grass would burn in this hot climate, and the 
 difficulty of extinguishing the fire, our voyagers deter- 
 mined never to expose themselves to the like danger, 
 but to clear the ground around them, if ever again they 
 should be under the necessity of pitching their tents in 
 such a situation. 
 
 In the evening of this day, when every thing was 
 gotten on board the ship, and she was nearly ready for 
 sailing, the master returned with the disagreeable ac- 
 count that there was no passage for her to the northward. 
 The next morning, the lieutenant himself sounded and 
 buoved the bar. At this time, all the hills for many 
 miles round were on fire, and the appearance they as- 
 sumed at night was eminently striking and splendid. 
 
 In an excursion which was made by Mr. Banks, on 
 the 33d, to gather plants, he found the greatest part of 
 the cloth that had been given to the Indians lying in a 
 heap together. This, as well as the trinkets which had 
 been bestowed upon them, they probably regarded as 
 useless lumber. Indeed, they seemed to set little value 
 
108 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 on any thing possessed by our people, excepting their 
 turtle ; and that was a commodity which could not be 
 spared. 
 
 As Lieutenant Cook was prevented by blowing wea- 
 ther from attempting to get out to sea, Mr. Banks and 
 Dr. Solander seized another opportunity, on the 24th, 
 of pursuing their botanical researches. Having tra- 
 versed the woods the greater part of the day, without 
 success, as thej r were returning through a deep valley, 
 they discovered lying upon the ground several marking 
 nuts, the anacardium orientale. Animated with the 
 hope of meeting the tree that bore them, a tree which 
 perhaps no European botanist had ever seen, they 
 sought for it with great diligence and labour, but to no 
 purpose. While Mr. Banks was again gleaning the 
 country, on the 26th, to enlarge his treasure of natural 
 history, he had the good fortune to take an animal of the 
 opossum tribe, together with two young ones. It was 
 a female, and, though not exactly of the same species, 
 much resembled the remarkable animal which Mons. de 
 Buffon hath described by the name of phalanger. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th, the weather becoming 
 calm, and a light breeze having sprung up by land, 
 Lieutenant Cook sent a boat to see what water was 
 upon the bar, and all things were made ready for put- 
 ting to sea. But, on the return of the boat, the officer 
 reported, that there were only thirteen feet of water on 
 the bar. As the ship drew thirteen feet six inches, and 
 the sea breeze set in again in the evening, all hope of 
 sailing on that day was given up. The weather being 
 more moderate on the 31st, the lieutenant had thoughts 
 of trying to warp the vessel out of the harbour ; but 
 upon going out himself in the boat, he found, that the 
 wind still blew so fresh, that it would not be proper to 
 make the attempt. A disagreeable piece of intelligence 
 occurred on the succeeding day. The carpenter, who 
 had examined the pumps, reported, that they were all 
 of them in a state of decay. One of them was so rotten, 
 that, when hoisted up, it dropped to pieces, and the 
 rest were not in a much better condition. The chief 
 confidence, therefore, of our navigators was now in the 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 109 
 
 soundness of the ship ; and it was a happy ci rcumstance, 
 that she did not admit more than one inch of water in 
 an hour. 
 
 Early on the 3d of August, another unsuccessful at- 
 tempt was made to warp the vessel out of the harbour : 
 but in the morning of the next day the efforts of our 
 voyagers were more prosperous, and the Endeavour 
 got once more under sail with a light air from the 
 land, which soon died away, and was followed by sea 
 breezes from south-east by south. "With these breezes 
 the ship stood off to sea, east by north, having the 
 pinnace ahead, which was ordered to keep sounding 
 without intermission. A little before noon the lieute- 
 nant anchored in fifteen fathom water, with a sandy 
 bottom ; the reason of which was, that he did not think 
 it safe to run in among the shoals, till, by taking a 
 view of them from the mast-head at low water, he might 
 be able to form some judgment which way it would be 
 proper for him to steer. This was a matter of nice and 
 arduous determination. As yet Mr. Cook was in doubt, 
 whether he should beat back to the southward, round 
 all the shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or the 
 northward : nor was it possible to say, whether each of 
 these courses might not be attended with equal difficulty 
 and danger. 
 
 The impartiality and humanity of Lieutenant Cook's 
 conduct in the distribution of provisions ought not to 
 pass unnoticed. Whatever turtle or other fish were 
 taught they were always equally divided among the 
 whole ship's crew, the meanest person on board having 
 the same share with the lieutenant himself. He hath 
 justly observed, that this is a rule which every com- 
 mander will find it his interest to follow, in any voyage 
 of a similar nature. 
 
 Great difficulties occurred in the navigation from 
 the Endeavour river. On the 5th of August, the lieu- 
 tenant had not kept his course long, before shoals were 
 discovered in every quarter, which obliged him, as 
 night approached, to come to an anchor. In the morn- 
 ing of the 6th, there was so strong a gale, that our voy- 
 t-euted from weighing. "W hen it was 
 
110 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 low water, Mr. Cook, with several of his officers, kept 
 a look-out at the mast-head, to see if any passage could 
 be discovered between the shoals. Nothing, however, 
 was in view, excepting breakers, which extended from 
 the south round by the east as far as to the north-west, 
 and reached out to sea, beyond the sight of any of the 
 gentlemen. It did not appear that these breakers were 
 caused by one continued shoal, but by several, which 
 lay detached from each other. On that which was 
 farthest to the eastward, the sea broke very high, so 
 that the lieutenant was induced to think, that it was the 
 outermost shoal. He was now convinced, that there 
 was no passage to sea, but through the labyrinth formed 
 by these shoals ; and, at the same time, he was wholly 
 at a loss what course to steer, when the weather should 
 permit the vessel to sail. The mastei-'s opinion was, 
 that our navigators should beat back the way they 
 came ; but as the wind blew strongly, and almost with- 
 out intermission, from that quarter, this would have 
 been an endless labour : and yet, if a passage could not 
 be found to the northward, there was no other alterna- 
 tive. Amidst these anxious deliberations, the gale in- 
 creased, and continued, with little remission, till the 
 morning of the 10th, when the weather becoming more 
 moderate, our commander weighed, and stood in for the 
 land. He had now come to a final determination of 
 seeking a passage along the shore to the northward. 
 
 In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour pro- 
 ceeded in her course, and at noon came between the 
 farthermost headland that lay in sight, and three islands 
 which were four or five leagues to the north of it, out 
 at sea. Here our navigators thought they saw a clear 
 opening before them, and began to hope that they 
 were once more out of danger. Of this hope, however, 
 they were soon deprived ; on which account, the lieu- 
 tenant gave to the headland the name of Cape Flattery. 
 After he had steered some time along the shore, for 
 what was believed to be the open channel, the petty 
 officer at the mast-head cried aloud, that he saw land 
 ahead, which extended quite round to the three islands, 
 and that between the ship and them there was a largo 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. Ill 
 
 reef. Mr. Cook, upon this, ran up the mast-head him- 
 self, and plainly discerned the reef, which was so far to 
 the windward, "that it could not be weathered. As to 
 the land which the petty officer had supposed to be the 
 main, our commander was of opinion, that it was only 
 a cluster of small islands. The master, and some others, 
 who went up the mast-head after the lieutenant, were 
 entirely of a different opinion. All of them were posi- 
 tive that the land in sight did not consist of islands, 
 but that it was a part of the main ; and they rendered 
 their report still more alarming, by adding, that they 
 saw breakers around them on every side. In a situa- 
 tion so critical and doubtful, Mr. Cook thought proper 
 to come to an anchor, under a high point, which he 
 immediately ascended, that he might have a farther 
 view of the sea and the country. The prospect he had 
 from this place, which he called Point Look-out, clearly 
 confirmed him in his former opinion ; the justness of 
 which displayed one of the numerous instances, wherein 
 it was manifest, how much he exceeded the people about 
 him in the sagacity of his judgment concerning matters 
 of navigation. 
 
 The lieutenant, being anxious to discover more dis- 
 tinctly the situation of the shoals, and the channel be- 
 tween them, determined to visit the northernmost and 
 largest of the three islands before mentioned ; which, 
 from its height, and its lying five leagues out to sea, 
 was peculiarly adapted to his purpose. Accordingly, 
 in companv with Mr. Banks, whose fortitude and cu- 
 riosity stimulated him to take a share in every under- 
 taking, he set out in the pinnace, on the morning of the 
 11th, upon this expedition. He sent, at the same 
 time, the master in the yawl, to sound between the 
 low islands and the main land. About one o'clock, the 
 gentlemen reached the place of their destination, and 
 immediately, with a mixture of hope and fear, propor- 
 tioned to the importance of the business, and the un- 
 certainty of the event, ascended the highest hill they 
 could find. When the lieutenant took a survey of the 
 prospect around him, he discovered, on the outside of 
 the islands, and at the distance of two or three leagues 
 
112 CAPTAIN COOK S 
 
 from them, a reef of rocks, upon which the sea broke 
 in a dreadful surf, and which extended farther than his 
 sight could reach. Hence, however, he collected, that 
 there was no shoals beyond them ; and, as he perceived 
 several breaks or openings in the reef, and deep water 
 between that and the islands, he entertained hopes of 
 getting without the rocks. But though he saw reason 
 to indulge, in some degree, this expectation, the hazi- 
 ness of the weather prevented him from obtaining that 
 satisfactorv intelligence which he ardently desired. He 
 determined, therefore, by staying all night upon the 
 island, to try whether the next day would not afford 
 him a more distinct and comprehensive prospect. Ac- 
 cordinglv, the gentlemen took up their lodging under 
 the shelter of a bush, which grew upon the beach. Not 
 many hours were devoted by them to sleep ; for, at 
 three in the morning, Mr. Cook mounted the hill a 
 second time, but had the mortification of finding the 
 weather much more hazy than it had been on the pre- 
 ceding dav. He had early sent the pinnace, with one 
 of the mates, to sound between the island and the reefs, 
 and to examine what appeared to be a channel through 
 them. The mate, in consequence of its blowing hard, 
 did not dare to venture into the channel, which he 
 reported to be very narrow. Nevertheless, our com- 
 mander, who judged, from the description of the place, 
 that it had been seen to disadvantage, was not discou- 
 raged by this account. 
 
 While the lieutenant was engaged in his survey, Mr. 
 Banks, always attentive to the great object of natural 
 historv, collected some plants which he had never met 
 with before. No animals were perceived upon the 
 place, excepting lizards, for which reason the gentle- 
 men gave it the name of Lizard Island. In their re- 
 turn to the ship, they landed on a low sandy island, 
 that had trees upon It, and which abounded with an 
 incredible number of birds, principally sea-fowl. Here 
 they found the nest of an eagle, and the nest of some 
 other bird, of what species they could not distinguish ; 
 but it must certainly be one of the largest kinds that 
 exist. This was apparent from the enormous size of 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 113 
 
 the nest, which was built with sticks upon the ground, 
 and was no less than six and twenty feet in circum- 
 ference, and two feet eight inches in height. The spot 
 which the gentlemen were now upon they called Eagle 
 Island. 
 
 "When Lieutenant Cook got on board, he entered 
 into a verv serious deliberation concerning the course 
 he should pursue. After considering what he had seen 
 himself, and the master's report, he was of opinion, 
 that bv keeping in with the mainland, he should run 
 the risk of being locked in by the great reef, and of 
 being compelled at last to return back in search of 
 another passage. By the delay that would hence be 
 occasioned, our navigators would almost certainly be 
 prevented from getting in time to the East Indies, 
 which was a matter of the utmost importance, and in- 
 deed of absolute necessity ; for they had now not much 
 more than three months provision on board, at short 
 allowance. The judgment the lieutenant had formed, 
 together with the facts and appearances on which it 
 Avas grounded, he stated to his officers, by whom it was 
 unanimously agreed, that the best thing they could do 
 would be to quit the coast entirely, till they could 
 approach it again with less danger. 
 
 In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour, 
 early in the morning of the 13th, got under sail, and 
 successfully passed through one of the channels or 
 openings in the outer reef, which Mr. Cook had seen 
 from the island. "When the ship had gotten without 
 the breakers, there was no ground within one hundred 
 and fiftv fathom, and our people found a large sea roll- 
 ing in upon them from the south-east. This was a cer- 
 tain sig:n that neither land nor shoals were near them 
 in that direction. 
 
 So happy a change in the situation of our voyagers 
 was sensibly felt in every breast, and was visible in 
 e\ erv countenance. They had been little less than three 
 months in a state that perpetually threatened them with 
 destruction. Frequently had they passed their nights at 
 anchor within hearing of the surge, that broke over 
 the shoals and rocks ; and they knew, that, if by anj: 
 
 VOL. I. 1 
 
114 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 accident the anchors should not hold against an almost 
 continual tempest, they must in a few minutes inevi- 
 tably perish. They had sailed three hundred and sixty 
 leagues, without once, even for a moment, having a 
 man out of the chains heaving the lead. This was a 
 circumstance which perhaps never had happened to 
 any other vessel. But now our navigators found them- 
 selves in an open sea with deep water ; and the joy 
 they experienced was proportioned to their late danger, 
 and their present security. Nevertheless, the very 
 waves, which proved by their swell that our people 
 had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced them, at the 
 same time, that they could not put a confidence in the 
 ship equal to what they had done before she struck. 
 So far were her leaks widened by the blows she re- 
 ceived from the waves, that she admitted no less than 
 nine inches of water in an hour. If the company had 
 not been lately in so much more imminent danger, this 
 fact, considering the state of the pumps, and the navi- 
 gation which was still in view, would have been a 
 matter of very serious concern. 
 
 The passage or channel, through which the Endea- 
 vour passed into the open sea beyond the reef, lies in 
 latitude 14° 32' south. It may always be known by 
 the three high islands within it, to which, on account 
 of the use they may be of in guiding the way of future 
 voyagers, our commander gave the appellation of the 
 Islands of Direction. 
 
 It was not a long time that our navigators enjoyed 
 the satisfaction of being free from the alarm of danger. 
 As they were pursuing their course in the night of the 
 15th, they sounded frequently, but had no bottom with 
 one hundred and forty fathom, nor any ground with 
 the same length of line. Nevertheless, at four in the 
 morning of the 16th, they plainly heard the roaring of 
 the surf, and at break of day saw it foaming to a vast 
 height, at not more than the distance of a mile. The 
 waves, which rolled in upon the reef, carried the v es- 
 sel towards it with great rapidity ; and, at the same 
 time, our people could reach no ground with an anchor, 
 and had not a breath of v\ tad for the sail. In a silua- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 115 
 
 tion so dreadful, there was no resource but in the 
 boats ; and, most unhappily, the pinnace was under 
 repair. By the help, however, of the long-boat and the 
 yawl, which were sent ahead to tow, the ship's head 
 was got round to the northward, a circumstance which 
 might delay, if it could not prevent destruction. This 
 was not effected till six o'clock, and our voyagers were 
 not then a hundred yards from the rock, upon which 
 the same billow that washed the side of the vessel 
 broke to a tremendous height, the very next time it 
 rose. There was only, therefore, a dreary valley be- 
 tween the English and destruction ; a valley no wider 
 than the base of one wave, while the sea under them 
 was unfathomable. The carpenter, in the meanwhile, 
 having hastily patched up the pinnace, she was hoisted 
 out, and sent ahead to tow in aid of the other boats. 
 But all these efforts would have been ineffectual, if a 
 light air of wind had not sprung up, just at the crisis 
 of our people's fate. It was so light an air, that at any 
 other time it would not have been observed : but it 
 was sufficient to turn the scale in favour of our navi- 
 gators ; and, in conjunction with the assistance which 
 was afforded by the boats, it gave the ship a perceptible 
 motion obliquely from the reef. The hopes of the com- 
 pany now revived : but in less than ten minutes a dead 
 calm succeeded, and the vessel was again driven to- 
 wards the breakers, which were not at the distance of 
 two hundred yards. However, before the ground was 
 lost which had already been gained, the same light 
 breeze returned, and lasted ten minutes more. During; 
 this time a small opening, about a quarter of a mile 
 distant, was discovered in the reef; upon which Mr. 
 Cook immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, 
 who reported that its breadth was not more than the 
 length of the ship, but that within it there was smooth 
 water. This discovery presented the prospect of a 
 possibility of escape, by pushing the vessel through the 
 opening. Accordingly, the attempt was made, but it 
 failed of success ; for when our people, by the joint 
 assistance of their boats and the breeze, had reached 
 the opening, they found that it had become high water; 
 
116 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 and, to their great surprise, they met the tide of ebb 
 running out like a mill-stream. In direct contrariety 
 to their expectations, some advantage was gained by 
 this event. Though it was impossible to go through 
 the opening, the stream, which prevented the Endea- 
 vour from doing it, carried her out about a quarter of 
 a mile ; and the boats were so much assisted in towing 
 her, by the tide of ebb, that at noon she had gained the 
 distance of nearly two miles. However, there was yet 
 too much reason to despair of deliverance. For even 
 if the breeze, which had now died away, had revived, 
 our navigators were still embayed in the reef: and the 
 tide of ebb being spent, the tide of flood, notwithstand- 
 ing their utmost efforts, drove the ship back again into 
 her former perilous situation. Happily, about this 
 time, another opening was perceived, nearly a mile to 
 the westward. Our commander immediately sent Mr. 
 Hicks, the first lieutenant, to examine it ; and in the 
 meanwhile the Endeavour struggled hard with the 
 flood, sometimes gaining and sometimes losing ground. 
 During this severe service, every man did his duty 
 with as much calmness and regularity as if no danger 
 had been near. At length, Mr. Hicks returned with 
 the intelligence, that the opening, though narrow and 
 hazardous, was capable of being passed. The bare 
 possibility of passing it was encouragement sufficient 
 to make the attempt ; and indeed all danger was less 
 to be dreaded by our people, than that of continuing in 
 their present situation. A light breeze having fortu- 
 nately sprung up, this, in conjunction with the aid of 
 the boats, and the very tide of flood that would other- 
 wise have been their destruction, enabled them to enter 
 the opening, through whioh they were hurried with 
 amazing rapidity. Such was the force of the torrent by 
 which they were carried along, that they were kept 
 from driving against either side of the channel, which 
 in breadth was not more than a quarter of a mile. 
 While they were shooting this gulf, their soundings 
 were remarkably irregular, varying from thirty to seven 
 fathom, and the ground at bottom was foul. 
 
 As soon as our na\ igators had gotten withiu the reef, 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 117 
 
 they came to an anchor ; and their joy was exceedingly 
 great at having regained a situation, which, three davs 
 before, they had quitted with the utmost pleasure and 
 transport. Rocks and shoals, which are alwavs dan- 
 gerous to the mariner, even when they are previously 
 known and marked, are peculiarly dangerous in seas 
 which have never been navigated before ; and in this 
 part of the globe they are more perilous than in any 
 other. Here they consist of reefs of coral rock, which 
 rise like a wall almost perpendicularly out of the deep, 
 and are always overflowed at high water. Here, too, 
 the enormous waves of the vast southern ocean, meet- 
 ing with so abrupt a resistance, break, with incon- 
 ceivable violence, in a surf which cannot be produced 
 by any rocks or storms in the northern hemisphere. A 
 crazy ship, shortness of provision, and a want of every 
 necessary, greatly increased the danger to our present 
 voyagers of navigating in this ocean. Nevertheless, 
 such is the ardour of the human mind, and so flattering 
 is the distinction of a first discoverer, that Lieutenant 
 Cook and his companions cheerfully encountered every 
 peril, and submitted to every inconvenience. They 
 chose rather to incur the charge of imprudence and 
 temerity, than to leave a country unexplored which 
 they had discovered, or to afford the least colour for 
 its being said, that they were deficient in perseverance 
 and fortitude. It scarcely needs to be added, that it 
 was the high and magnanimous spirit of our commander, 
 in particular, which inspired his people with so much 
 resolution and vigour. 
 
 The lieutenant, having now gotten within the reef, 
 determined, whatever might be the consequence, to 
 keep the main land on board, in his future route to the 
 northward. His reason for this determination was, 
 that, if he had gone without the reef again, he might 
 have been carried by it so far from the coast, as to pre- 
 vent his being able to ascertain whether this country 
 did, or did not, join to New Guinea ; a question which 
 he had fixed upon resolving, from the first moment that 
 he had come within sight of land. To the opening 
 through which the Endeavour had passed, our com- 
 
118 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 mander, with a proper sense of gratitude to the Su-» 
 preme Being, gave the name of Providential Channel. 
 In the morning of the 17th, the boats had been sent 
 out, to see what refreshments could be procured ; and 
 returned in the afternoon with two hundred and forty 
 pounds of the meat of shell fish, chiefly of cockles. 
 Some of the cockles were as much as two men could 
 move, and contained twenty pounds of good meat. 
 Mr. Banks, who had gone out in his little boat, accom- 
 panied by Dr. Solander, brought back a variety of 
 curious shells, and many species of corals. 
 
 In the prosecution of the voyage, our people, on the 
 19th, were encompassed on every side with rocks and 
 shoals : but, as they had lately been exposed to much 
 greater danger, and these objects were now become 
 familiar, they began to regard them comparatively with 
 little concern. On the 21st, there being two points in 
 view, between which our navigators could see no land, 
 they conceived hopes of having at last found a passage 
 into the Indian Sea. Mr. Cook, however, that he 
 might be able to determine the matter with greater 
 certainty, resolved to land upon an island, which lies 
 at the south-east point of the passage. Accordingly, he 
 went into the boat, with a party of men, accompanied 
 by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. As they were getting 
 to shore, some of the natives seemed inclined to oppose 
 their landing, but soon walked leisurely away. The 
 gentlemen immediately climbed the highest hill, from 
 which no land could be seen between the south-west 
 and west-south-west ; so that the lieutenant had not the 
 least doubt of finding a channel, through which he 
 could pass to New Guinea. As he was now about to 
 quit the coast of New Holland, which he had traced 
 from latitude thirty-eight to this place, and which he 
 was certain no European had ever seen before, he once 
 more hoisted English colours. He had, indeed, already- 
 taken possession of several particular parts of the 
 country. But he now took possession of the whole 
 eastern coast, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and 
 islands situated upon it, from latitude 38° to latitude 
 10°§' south, in right of his Majesty King George the 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 110 
 
 Third, and by the name of New South Wales. The 
 party then fired three volleys of small arms, which 
 were answered by the same number from the ship. 
 When the gentlemen had performed this ceremonv 
 upon the island, which they called Possession Island, 
 they reembarked in their boat, and, in consequence of 
 a rapid ebb tide, had a very difficult and tedious return 
 to the vessel. 
 
 On the 23d, the wind had come round to the south- 
 west ; and though it Avas but a gentle breeze, yet it was 
 accompanied by a swell from the same quarter, which, 
 in conjunction with other circumstances, confirmed 
 Mr. Cook, in his opinion, that he had arrived to the 
 northern extremity of New Holland, and that he had 
 now an open sea to the westward. These circum- 
 stances afforded him peculiar satisfaction, not only be- 
 cause the dangers and fatigues of the vovage were 
 drawing to a conclusion, but because it could no longer 
 be doubted whether New Holland and New Guinea 
 were two separate islands. The north-east entrance of 
 the strait lies in the latitude of 10° 39' south, and in the 
 longitude of 218° 36' west ; and the passage is formed 
 by the main land, and by a congeries of islands, to the 
 north-west, called by the lieutenant the Prince of 
 Wales's Islands, and which may probably extend as far 
 as to New Guinea. Their difference is very great, 
 both in height and circuit, and manV seemed to be well 
 covered with herbage and wood : nor was there any 
 doubt of their being inhabited. Our commander was 
 persuaded, that among these islands as good passages 
 might be found, as that through which the vessel came, 
 and the access to which might be less perilous. The 
 determination of this matter he would not have left to 
 future navigators, if he had been less harassed by dan- 
 ger and fatigue, and had possessed a ship in better con- 
 dition for the purpose. To the channel through which 
 he passed, he gave the name of Endeavour Straits. 
 
 New Holland, or, as the eastern part of it was called 
 by Lieutenant Cook, New South Wales, is the largest 
 country in the known world, which does not bear the 
 
120 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 name of a continent. The length of coast along which 
 our people sailed, when reduced to a straight line, was 
 no less than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amount- 
 ing nearly to two thousand miles. In fact, the square 
 surface of the island is much more than equal to the 
 whole of Europe. We may observe, with regard to 
 the natives, that their number bears no proportion to 
 the extent of their territory. So many as thirty of 
 them had never been seen together but once, and that 
 was at Botany Bay. Even when they appeared deter- 
 mined to engage the English, they could not muster 
 above fourteen or tifteen fighting men : and it was ma- 
 nifest, that their sheds and houses did not lie so close 
 together, as to be capable of accommodating a larger 
 party. Indeed our navigators saw only the seacoast 
 on the eastern side ; between which and the western 
 shore there is an immense tract of land, that is wholly 
 unexplored. But it is evident, from the totally un- 
 cultivated state of the country which was seen by our 
 people, that this immense tract must either be alto- 
 gether desolate, or at least more thinly inhabited than 
 the parts which were visited. Of traffic, the natives 
 had no idea, nor could any be communicated to them. 
 The things which were given them they received, but 
 did not appear to understand the signs of the English 
 requiring a return. There was no reason to believe 
 that they eat animal food raw. As they have no vessel 
 in which water can be boiled, they either broil their 
 meat upon the coals, or bake it in a hole by the help of 
 hot stones, agreeably to the custom of the inhabitants 
 of the South Sea islands. Fire is produced by tJiem 
 with great facility, and they spread it in a surprising 
 manner. For producing it, they take two pieces of 
 soft wood, one of which is a stick about eight or nine 
 inches long, while the other piece is flat. The stick 
 they shape into an obtuse point at one end, and press- 
 ing it upon the flat wood, turn it nimbly by holding it 
 between both their hands. In doing this, they often 
 shift their hands up, and then move them down, with a 
 view of increasing the pressure as much as possible. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 121 
 
 By this process they obtain fire in less than two mi- 
 nutes, and from the "smallest spark they carry it to any 
 height or extent with great speed and dexterity. 
 
 It was not possible, considering the limited inter- 
 course which our navigators had with the natives of 
 New South Wales, that much could be learned with 
 regard to their language. Nevertheless, as this is an 
 object of no small curiosity to the learned, and is, in- 
 deed, of peculiar importance in searching into the 
 origin of the various nations that have been disco- 
 vered, Mr. Cook and his friends took some pains to 
 collect such a specimen of it as might, in a certain 
 degree, answer the purpose. Our commander did not 
 quit the country without making such observations, 
 relative to the currents and tides upon the coast, as, 
 while they increase the general knowledge of naviga- 
 tion, may be of service to future voyagers. The irre- 
 gularity of the tides is an object worthy of notice. 
 
 From the coast of New South Wales, the lieutenant 
 steered, on the 23d of August, for the coast of New 
 Guinea, and, on the 25th, fell upon a dangerous shoal. 
 The ship was in six fathom, but scarcely two were 
 found, upon sounding round her, at the distance of half 
 a cable's length. This shoal was of such an extent, 
 reaching from the east round by the north and west to 
 the south-west, that there was no method for the vessel 
 to get clear of it, but by her going back the way in 
 which she came. Here was another hair's breadth 
 escape ; for it was nearly high water, and there ran a 
 short cockling sea, which, if the ship had struck, must 
 very soon have bulged her. So dangerous was her 
 situation, that, if her direction had been half a cable's 
 length more, either to the right or left, she must have 
 struck, before the signal for the shoal could have been 
 made. 
 
 It had been Lieutenant Cook's intention to steer 
 north-west till he had made the south coast of New 
 Guinea, and it was his purpose to touch upon it, if that 
 could be found practicable. But, in consequence of 
 the shoals he met with, he altered his course, in the 
 hope of finding a clearer channel, and deeper water. 
 
122 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 His hope was agreeably verified ; for by noon, on the 
 36th, the depth of water was gradually increased to 
 seventeen fathom. On the 28th, our voyagers found the 
 sea to be in many places covered with a brown scum, 
 such as the sailors usually call spawn. When the lieu- 
 tenant first saw it, he was alarmed, fearing that the 
 ship was again among shoals ; but the depth of water, 
 upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it 
 was in other places. The same appearance had been 
 observed upon the coasts of Brazil and New Holland, 
 in which cases it was at no great distance from the 
 shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the scum, 
 but could not determine what it was, any farther than 
 as they saw reason to suppose that it belonged to the 
 vegetable kingdom. The sailors, upon meeting with 
 more of it, gave up the notion of its being spawn, and 
 finding a new name for it, called it sea sawdust. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 3d of September, our navigators 
 came in sight of New Guinea, and stood in for it, with 
 a fresh gale, till nine o'clock, when they brought to, 
 being in three fathom water, and within about three or 
 four miles of land. Upon this the pinnace was hoisted, 
 and the lieutenant set oif from the ship with the boat's 
 crew, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and 
 Mr. Banks's servants, being in all twelve persons, well 
 armed. As soon as they came ashore, they discovered 
 the prints of human feet, which could not long have 
 been impressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, 
 that the natives were at no great distance, and there 
 being a thick wood which reached to within a hundred 
 vards of the water, the gentlemen thought it necessary 
 to proceed with caution, lest their retreat to the boat 
 should be cut off. When they had walked some way 
 along the skirts of the wood, 'they came to a grove of 
 cocoanut trees, at the fruit of which they looked very 
 wishfully ; but not thinking it safe to climb, they were 
 obligedto leave it without tasting a single nut. After 
 they had advanced about a quarter of a mile from the 
 boat, three Indians rushed out of the wood with a 
 hideous shout, and, as they ran towards the English, 
 the foremost threw something out of his hand, which 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 123 
 
 flew on one side of him, and burned exactly like gun- 
 powder, though without making any report. The two 
 other natives having at the same instant discharged 
 their arrows, the lieutenant and his party were under 
 the necessity of firing, first with small shot, and a 
 second time with ball. Upon this, the three Indians 
 ran away with great agility. As Mr. Cook had no dis- 
 position forcibly to invade this country, either to 
 gratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and 
 was convinced that nothing was to be done upon 
 friendly terms, he and his companions returned with 
 all expedition towards their boat. When they were 
 aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives, who had 
 come down to the shore in aid of their countrymen, 
 and whose number now amounted to between sixty and 
 a hundred. Their appearance was much the same as 
 that of the New Hollanders : they nearly resembled 
 them in stature, and in having their hair short and 
 cropped. Like them, also, they were absolutely naked ; 
 but the colour of their skin did not seem quite so dark, 
 which, however, might be owing to their being less 
 dirty. "While the English gentlemen were viewing 
 them, thev were shouting defiance, and letting off" their 
 fires by four or five at a time. Our people could not 
 imagine what these fires were, or what purposes they 
 were intended to answer. Those who discharged them 
 had in their hands a short piece of stick, which they 
 swung sidewavs from them, and immediately there 
 issued fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of a 
 musket, and of as short a duration. The men on board 
 the ship, who observed this surprising phenomenon, 
 were so far deceived by it, as to believe that the In- 
 dians had firearms. To the persons in the boat, it had 
 the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report. 
 The place where this transaction happened lies in the 
 latitude of 6° 15' south, and is about sixty-five leagues 
 to the north-east of Port Saint Augustine, or Walche 
 Caep, and is near what is called in the charts C. de la 
 Colta de St. Bonaventura. In every part of the coast, 
 the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and 
 herbage. The cocoanut, the bread-fruit, and the plan- 
 
124 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 tain-tree, flourish here in the highest perfection ; be- 
 sides which, the country abounds with most of the 
 trees, shrubs, and plants, that are common to the South 
 Sea islands, New Zealand, and New Holland. 
 
 Soon after Mr. Cook and his party had returned to 
 the ship, our voyagers made sail to the westward, the 
 lieutenant having resolved to spend no more time upon 
 this coast ; a resolution which was greatly to the satis- 
 faction of a very considerable majority of his people. 
 Some of the officers indeed were particularly urgent 
 that a number of men might be sent ashore, to cut 
 down cocoanut trees for the sake of their fruit. This, 
 however, our commander absolutely refused, as equally 
 unjust and cruel. It was morally certain, from the pre- 
 ceding behaviour of the natives, that if their property 
 had been invaded, they would have made a vigorous 
 effort to defend it ; in which case, the lives of many of 
 them must have been sacrificed; and perhaps, too, 
 several of the English would have fallen in the contest. 
 The necessity of a quarrel with the Indians would have 
 been regretted by the lieutenant, even if he had been 
 impelled to it by a want of the necessaries of life ; but 
 to engage in it for the transient gratification that would 
 arise from obtaining two or three hundred green cocoa- 
 nuts, appeared in his view highly criminal. The same 
 calamity, at least with regard to the natives, would 
 probably have occurred, if he had sought for any other 
 place on the coast, to the northward and westward, 
 where the ship might have lain so near the shore, as to 
 cover his people with the guns when they had landed. 
 Besides, there was cause to believe, that, before such 
 a place could have been found, our navigators would 
 have been carried so far to the westward, as to be 
 obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of Java. 
 This, in Mr. Cook's opinion, would not have been so 
 safe a passage, as that to the south of Java, through the 
 straits of Sunda. Another reason for his making the 
 best of his way to Batavia, was the leakiness of the 
 vessel, which rendered it doubtful, whether it would 
 not be necessary to heave her down when she arrived 
 at that port. Our commander's resolution was farther 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 125 
 
 confirmed by the consideration, that no discovery 
 could be expected in seas which had already been na- 
 vigated, and where the coast had been sufficiently de- 
 scribed both by Spanish and Dutch geographers, and 
 especially by the latter. The only merit claimed by 
 the lieutenant, in this part of his voyage, was the 
 having established it as a fact beyond all controversy, 
 that New Holland and New Guinea are two distinct 
 countries. 
 
 Without staying, therefore, on the coast of New 
 Guinea, the Endeavour, on the same day, directed her 
 course to the westward, in pursuing which, Mr. Cook 
 had an opportunity of rectifying the errors of former 
 navigators. Very early in the morning of the 6th of 
 September, our voyagers passed a small island, which 
 lay to the north-north-west ; and at daybreak they dis- 
 covered another low island, extending from that quarter 
 to north-north-east. Upon the last island, which ap- 
 peared to be of considerable extent, the lieutenant 
 would have landed to examine its produce, if the wind 
 had not blown so fresh, as to render his design imprac- 
 ticable. Unless these two islands belong to the Arrou 
 islands, they have no place in the charts ; and if they 
 do belong to the Arrou islands, they are laid down at 
 too great a distance from New Guinea. Some other 
 land which was seen this day ought, by its distance 
 from New Guinea, to have been part of the Arrou 
 islands ; but if any dependance can be placed on former 
 charts, it lies a degree farther to the south. 
 
 On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude 9° 30 7 
 south, and longitude 229° 34' west, our people ought 
 to have been in sight of*the Weasel Isles, which, in 
 the charts, are laid down at the distance of twenty or 
 twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland. 
 But as our commander saw nothing of them, he con- 
 cluded that thev must have been placed erroneously. 
 Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is con- 
 sidered, that not only these islands, but the coast 
 which bounds this sea, have been explored at different 
 times, and by different persons, who had not all the re 
 (puisites for keeping accurate journals which are now 
 
126 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 possessed ; and whose various discoveries have been 
 delineated upon charts by others, perhaps at the dis- 
 tance of more than a century after such discoveries had 
 been made. 
 
 In pursuing their course, our navigators passed the 
 islands of Timor, Timor-lavet, Rotte, and Seman. 
 While they were near the two latter islands, they ob- 
 served, about ten o'clock at night, on the 16th of the 
 month, a phenomenon in the heavens, which in many 
 particulars resembled the Aurora Borealis, though in 
 others it was very different. It consisted of a dull 
 reddish light, which reached about twenty degrees 
 above the horizon; and though its extent, at times, 
 varied much, it never comprehended less than eight or 
 ten points of the compass. Through, and out of the 
 general appearance, there passed rays of light of a 
 brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed, 
 nearly in the same manner as those of the Aurora 
 Borealis, but entirely without the tremulous or vibra- 
 tory motion which is seen in that phenomenon. The 
 body of this light bore south-south-east from the ship, 
 and continued, without any diminution of its bright- 
 ness, till twelve o'clock, and probably a longer time, as 
 the gentlemen were prevented from observing it farther, 
 by their retiring to sleep. 
 
 By the 16th, Lieutenant Cook had gotten clear of 
 all the islands which had then been laid down in the 
 maps as situated between Timor and Java, and did not 
 expect to meet with any other in that quarter. But 
 the next morning an island was seen bearing west- 
 south-west, and at first he believed that he had made a 
 new discovery. As soon as our voyagers had come 
 close in with the north side of it, they had the pleasing 
 prospect of houses and cocoanut trees, and of what still 
 more agreeably surprised them, numerous flocks of 
 sheep. Many of the people on board were at this time 
 in a bad state of health, and no small number of them 
 had been dissatisfied with the lieutenant for not having 
 touched at Timor. He readily embraced, therefore, the 
 opportunity of landing at a place which appeared so 
 well calculated to supply the necessities of the company, 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 127 
 
 and to remove both the sickness and the discontent 
 which had spread among them. This place proved to 
 be the island of Savu, where a settlement had lately 
 been made by the Dutch. 
 
 The great design of our commander was to obtain 
 provisions, which, after some difficulty, and some jea- 
 lousy on the part of Mr. Lange, the Dutch resident, 
 were procured. These provisions were nine buffaloes, 
 six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, many 
 dozens of eggs, some cocoanuts, a few limes, a little 
 garlic, and several hundred gallons of palm-sirup. In 
 obtaining these refreshments at a reasonable price, the 
 English were not a little assisted by an old Indian, who 
 appeared to be a person of considerable authority under 
 the king of the country. The lieutenant and his friends 
 were one day very hospitably entertained by the king 
 himself, though the royal etiquette did not permit his 
 majesty to partake of the banquet. 
 
 So little, in general, had the island of Savu been 
 known, that Mr. Cook had never seen a map or chart 
 in which it is clearly or accurately laid down. The 
 middle of it lies in about the latitude of 10° 35' south, 
 and longitude 237° 30' west ; and from the ship it pre- 
 sented a prospect, than which nothing can be more 
 beautiful. This prospect, from the verdure and culture 
 of the country, from the hills, richly clothed, which 
 rise in a gentle and regular ascent, and from the state- 
 liness and beauty of the trees, is delightful to a degree 
 that can scarcely be conceived by the most lively ima- 
 gination. With regard to the productions and natives 
 of the island, the account which our navigators were 
 enabled to give of them, and which is copious and en- 
 tertaining, was, in a great measure, derived from the 
 information of Mr. Lange. 
 
 An extraordinary relation is given of the morals of 
 the people of this island, and which, if true, must fill 
 every virtuous mind with pleasure. Their characters 
 and conduct are represented as irreproachable, even 
 upon the principles of Christianity. Though no man 
 is permitted to have more than one wife, an illicit com- 
 merce between the sexes is scarcely known among 
 
128 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 them. Instances of theft are very rare ; and so far are 
 they from revenging a supposed injury by murder, that 
 when any difference arises between them, they imme- 
 diately and implicitly refer it to the determination of 
 their king. They will not so much as make it the sub- 
 ject of private debate, lest they should hence be pro- 
 voked to resentment and ill will. Their delicacy and 
 cleanliness are suited to the purity of their morals. 
 From the specimen which is given of the language of 
 Savu, it appears to have some affinity with that of the 
 South Sea islands. Many of the words are exactly the 
 same, and the terms of numbers are derived from the 
 same origin. 
 
 On the 21st of September, our navigators got under 
 sail, and having pursued their voyage till the 1st of 
 October, on that day they came within sight of the 
 island of Java. During their course from Savu, Lieu- 
 tenant Cook allowed twenty minutes a day for the 
 westerly current, which he concluded must run strong 
 at this time, especially on the coast of Java ; and ac- 
 cordingly, he found that this allowance was exactly 
 equivalent to the effect of the current upon the ship. 
 Such was the sagacity of our commander's judgment in 
 whatever related to navigation. 
 
 On the 2d, two Dutch ships being seen to lie off 
 Anger Point, the lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks on board 
 one of them, to inquire news concerning England, from 
 which our people had so long been absent. Mr. Hicks 
 brought back the agreeable intelligence, that the Swal- 
 low, commanded by Captain Carteret, had been at Ba- 
 tavia two years before. In the morning of the 5th, a 
 prow came alongside of the Endeavour, with a Dutch 
 officer, who sent down to Mr. Cook a printed paper in 
 English, duplicates of which he had in other languages. 
 This paper was regularly signed, in the name of the 
 governor and council of the Indies, by their secretary, 
 and contained nine questions, very ill expressed, two 
 of which only the lieutenant thought proper to answer. 
 These were what regarded the nation and name of his 
 vessel, and whither she was bound. On the 9th, our 
 voyagers stood in for Batavia road, where they found 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 129 
 
 the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English 
 private traders, and a number of Dutch ships. Imme- 
 diately a boat came on board the Endeavour, and the 
 officer who commanded having inquired who our people 
 were, and whence they came, instantly returned with 
 such answers as were given him. In the meantime 
 Mr. Cook sent a lieutenant ashore, to acquaint the 
 governor of his arrival, and to make an apology for 
 not having saluted ; a ceremony he had judged better 
 to omit ; as he could only make use of three guns, ex- 
 cepting the swivels, which he was of opinion would not 
 be heard. 
 
 It being universally agreed, that the ship could not 
 safely proceed to Europe without an examination of 
 her bottom, our commander determined to apply for 
 leave to heave her down at Batavia ; and for this pur- 
 pose he drew up a request in writing, which, after he 
 had waited first upon the governor-general, and then 
 upon the council, was readily complied with, and he 
 was told, that he should have every thing he wanted. 
 
 In the evening of the 10th, there was a dreadful 
 storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, during which 
 the mainmast of one of the Dutch East Indiameu was 
 split, and carried away by the deck ; and the maintop- 
 mast and topgallant-mast were shivered to pieces. The 
 stroke was probably directed by an iron spindle, which 
 was at the maintop gallautmast head. As this ship lay 
 very near the Endeavour, she could scarcely have 
 avoided sharing the same fate, had it not been for the 
 conducting chain, which fortunately had been just 
 gotten up, and which conveyed the lightning over the 
 side of the vessel. But though she escaped the light- 
 ning, the explosion shook her like an earthquake ; and 
 the chain, at the same time, appeared like a line of fire. 
 Mr. Cook has embraced this occasion of earnestly re- 
 commending similar chains to every ship ; and hath 
 expressed his hope, that all who read his narrative will 
 be warned against having an iron spindle at the mast- 
 head. 
 
 The English gentlemen had taken up their lodging 
 and boarding at an hotel, or kind of inn, kept by the 
 
 VOL. I. K 
 
130 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 order of government. Here they met with those im- 
 positions, in point of expense and treatment, which are 
 too common to admit of much surprise. It was not 
 long, however, that they submitted to ill usage. By a 
 farther acquaintance with the manner of dealing with 
 their host, and by spirited remonstrances, they procured 
 a better furnished table. Mr. Banks, in a few days, 
 hired a small house for himself and his party ; and as 
 soon as he was settled in his new habitation, sent for 
 Tupia, who had hitherto continued on board on account 
 of sickness. When he quitted the ship, and after he 
 came into the boat, he was exceedingly lifeless and 
 dejected ; but no sooner did he enter the town, than 
 he appeared to be inspired with another soul. A scene 
 so entirely new and extraordinary filled him with amaze- 
 ment. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and a 
 multiplicity of other objects, rushing upon him at once, 
 produced an effect similar to what is ascribed to en- 
 chantment. His boy, Tayeto, expressed his wonder and 
 delight in a still more rapturous manner. He danced 
 along the streets in a kind of ecstasy, examining every 
 object with a restless and eager curiosity, which was 
 excited and gratified every moment. Tupia's attention 
 was particularly excited by the various dresses of the 
 passing multitude ; and when he was informed, that at 
 Batavia every one wore the dress of his own country, 
 he expressed his desire of appearing in the garb of 
 Otaheite. Accordingly, South Sea cloth being sent for 
 from the ship, he equipped himself with great expedi- 
 tion and dexterity. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook imagined that at Batavia he should 
 find it easy to take up what money he might want for 
 repairing and refitting the Endeavour ; but in this he 
 was mistaken. No private person could be found who 
 had ability and inclination to furnish the sum which 
 was necessary. In this exigency, the lieutenant had 
 recourse, by a written request, to the governor, from 
 whom he obtained an order for being supplied out of 
 the Dutch company's treasury. 
 
 When our voyagers had been only nine days at Ba- 
 tavia, they began to feel the fatal effects of the climate 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 131 
 
 and situation. Tupia, after his first flow of spirits had 
 suhsided, grew even day worse and worse ; and Taveto 
 was seized with an inflammation upon his lungs. Mr. 
 Banks and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and, 
 in a little time, almost every person, both on board and 
 on shore, was sick. The distress of our people was 
 indeed very great, and the prospect before them dis- 
 couraging in the highest degree. Tupia, being desirous 
 of breathing a freer air than among' the numerous 
 houses that obstructed it ashore, had a tent erected for 
 him on Coopers Island, to which he was accompanied 
 by Mr. Banks, who attended this poor Indian with the 
 greatest humanity, till he was rendered incapable of 
 doing it, by the violent increase of his own disorder. 
 On the 5th of November, Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon 
 of the ship, a sensible, skilful man, whose loss was not 
 a little aggravated by the situation of the English, fell 
 the first sacrifice to this fatal country. Tayeto died on 
 the 9th, and Tupia, who loved him with the tenderness 
 of a parent, sunk at once after the loss of the boy, and 
 survived him only a few days. The disorders of Mr. 
 Banks and Dr. Solander grew to such a height, that the 
 physician declared thev had no chance of preserving 
 their lives but by removing into the country. Accord- 
 ingly, a house was hired for them at the distance of 
 about two miles from the town ; where, in consequence 
 of enjoying a purer air, and being better nursed bv two 
 Malayan women, whom they had bought, they recovered 
 by slow degrees. At length, Lieutenant Cook was him- 
 self taken ill ; and out of the whole ship's companv, not 
 more than ten were able to do duty. 
 
 In the midst of these distresses, our commander was 
 diligently and vigorously attentive to the repair of his 
 vessel. When her bottom came to be examined, she 
 was found to be in a worse condition than had been 
 apprehended. Her false keel and main keel were both 
 of them greatly injured ; a large quantity of the sheath- 
 ing was torn off"; and among several planks which were 
 much damaged, two of them, and the half of a third, 
 were so worn for the length of six feet, that they were 
 not above the eighth part of an inch in thickness : and 
 
132 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 here the worms had made way quite into the timbers. 
 In this state the Endeavour had sailed many hundred 
 leagues, in a quarter of the globe where navigation is 
 dangerous in the highest degree. It was happy for our 
 voyagers, that they were ignorant of their perilous 
 situation ; for it must have deeply affected them, to 
 have known, that a considerable part of the bottom of 
 the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe, and that 
 all their lives depended upon so slight and fragile a 
 barrier between them and the unfathomable ocean. 
 
 The repair of the Endeavour was carried on very 
 much to Mr. Cook's satisfaction. In justice to the 
 Dutch officers and workmen, he hath declared, that, in 
 his opinion, there is not a marine yard in the world, 
 where a ship can be laid with more convenience, safety, 
 and dispatch, or repaired with greater diligence and 
 skill. He was particularly pleased with the manner of 
 heaving down by two masts, and gives it a decided 
 preference to the method which had hitherto been 
 practised by the English. The lieutenant was not one 
 of those on whom the bigotry could be charged of 
 adhering to old customs, in opposition to the dictates 
 of reason and experience. 
 
 By the 8th of December, the Endeavour was per- 
 fectly refitted. From that time to the 24th, our people 
 were employed in completing her stock of water, pro- 
 visions, and stores, in erecting some new pumps, and 
 in various other necessary operations. All this busi- 
 ness would have been effected much sooner, if it had 
 not been retarded by the general sickness of the men. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 24th, our commander took 
 leave of the governor of Batavia, and of several other 
 gentlemen belonging to the place, with whom he had 
 formed connexions, and to whom he had been greatly 
 obliged for their civilities and assistance. In the mean- 
 while, an accident intervened, which might have been 
 attended with disagreeable effects. A seaman, who had 
 run away from one of the Dutch ships in the road, 
 entered on board the Endeavour. Upon his being 
 reclaimed, as a subject of Holland, Mr. Cook, who was 
 on s-hore, declared, that, if the man appeared to be a 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 133 
 
 Dutchman, he should certainly he delivered up. When, 
 however, the order was carried to Mr. Hicks, who 
 commanded on board, he refused to surrender the sea- 
 man, alleging, that he was a subject of Great Britain, 
 born in Ireland. In this conduct, Mr. Hicks acted in 
 perfect conformity to the lieutenant's intention and 
 directions. The captain of the Dutch vessel, in the 
 next place, by a message from the governor-general, 
 demanded the man as a subject of Denmark. To this 
 Mr. Cook replied, that there must be some mistake in 
 the general's message, since he would never demand of 
 him a Danish seaman, whose only crime was that of 
 preferring the English to the Dutch service. At the 
 same time the lieutenant added, that to show the sin- 
 cerity of his desire to avoid disputes, if the man was a 
 Dane, he should be delivered up as a courtesy ; but 
 that, if he appeared to be an English subject, he should 
 be kept at all events. Soon after, a letter was brought 
 from Mr. Hicks, containing indubitable proofs that the 
 seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic 
 majesty. This letter Mr. Cook sent to the governor, 
 with an assurance to his excellency, that he would not 
 part with the man on any terms. A conduct so firm 
 and decisive produced the desired effect, no more being 
 heard of the affair. 
 
 In the evening of the 25th, our commander went 
 on board, together with Mr. Banks and the rest of the 
 gentlemen who had resided constantly on shore. The 
 gentlemen, though considerably better, were far from 
 being perfectly recovered. At this time, the sick per- 
 sons in the ship amounted to forty, and the rest of the 
 company were in a very feeble condition. It was re- 
 markable, that every individual had been ill excepting 
 the sailmaker, who was an old man between seventy 
 and eighty years of age, and who was drunk every day 
 during the residence of our people at Batavia. Three 
 seamen and Mr. Green's servant died, besides the sur- 
 geon, Tupia, and Tayeto. Tupia did not entirely fall 
 a sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, and putrid air 
 of the country. As he had been accustomed from his 
 birth, to subsist chiefly upon vegetable food, and parti- 
 
134 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 cularly on ripe fruit, he soon contracted the disorders 
 which are incident to a sea life, and would probably 
 have sunk under them before the voyage of the English 
 could have been completed, even if they had not been 
 obliged to go to Batavia to refit their vessel. 
 
 Our navigators did not stay at this place without 
 gaining an extensive acquaintance with the produc- 
 tions of the country, and the manners and customs of 
 the inhabitants. The information which was obtained 
 on these heads, will be found to constitute a very 
 valuable addition to what was heretofore known upon 
 the subject. 
 
 On Thursday the 27th of December, the Endeavour 
 stood out to sea ; and on the 5th of January, 1771, she 
 came to an anchor, under the south-east side of Prince's 
 Island. The design of this Avas to obtain a recruit of 
 wood and water, and to procure some refreshments for 
 the sick, many of whom had become much worse than 
 they were when they left Batavia. As soon as the 
 vessel was secured, the lieutenant, Mr. Banks, and 
 Dr. Solander went on shore, and were conducted by 
 some Indians they met with to a person who was repre- 
 sented to be the king of the country. After exchanging 
 a few compliments with his majesty, the gentlemen 
 proceeded to business, but could not immediately come 
 to a settlement with him in respect to the price of 
 turtle. They were more successful in their search of 
 a watering-place, having found water conveniently 
 situated, and which they had reason to believe would 
 prove good. As they were going off, some of the na- 
 tives sold them three turtle, under a promise that the 
 king should not be informed of the transaction. 
 
 On the next day a traffic was established with the 
 Indians, upon such terms as were offered by the Eng- 
 lish ; so that by night our people had plenty of turtle. 
 The three which had been purchased the evening be- 
 fore were in the mean time dressed for the ship's com- 
 pany, who, excepting on the preceding day, had not, 
 for nearly the space of four months, been once served 
 with salt provisions. Mr. Banks, in the evening, paid 
 his respects to the king at his palace, which was situ- 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 135 
 
 ated in the middle of a rice field. His majesty was 
 busily employed in dressing his own supper ; but this 
 did not prevent him from receiving his visitant in a very 
 gracious manner. During the following davs, the com- 
 merce with the natives for provisions was continued ; 
 in the course of which they brought down to the trad- 
 ing place, not only a quantity of turtle, but fowls, fish, 
 monkeys, small deer, and some vegetables. 
 
 On the evening of the 11th, when Mr. Cook went on 
 shore to see how those of his people conducted their 
 business, who were employed in wooding and water- 
 ing, he was informed that an axe had been stolen. As 
 it was a matter of consequence to prevent others from 
 being encouraged to commit thefts of the like kind, he 
 resolved not to pass over the offence, but to insist 
 upon redress from the king. Accordingly, after some 
 altercation, his majesty promised that the axe should 
 be restored in the morning, and the promise was faith- 
 fully performed. 
 
 On the 15th, our commander weighed, and stood out 
 for sea. Prince's Island, where he lay about ten days, 
 was formerly much frequented by the India ships of 
 many nations, and especially those of England, but it 
 had lately been forsaken, on account of the supposed 
 badness of its water. This supposition, however, arose 
 from a want of duly examining the brook by which the 
 water is supplied. It is, indeed, brackish at the lower 
 part of the brook, but higher up it will be found ex- 
 cellent. The lieutenant, therefore, was clearly of opi- 
 nion, that Prince's Island is a more eligible place for 
 ships to touch at, than either at North Island or New 
 Bay ; from neither of which places any considerable 
 quantity of other refreshments can be procured. 
 
 As the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage to the 
 Cape of Good Hope, the seeds of disease, which had 
 been received at Batavia, appeared with the most 
 threatening symptoms, and reduced our navigators to 
 a very melancholy situation. The ship was, in fact, 
 nothing better than an hospital, in which those who 
 could go about were not sufficient for a dne attendance 
 upon those who were sick. Lest the water which bad 
 
136 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 been taken in at Prince's Island should have had any 
 share in adding to the disorder of the men, the lieu- 
 tenant ordered it to be purified with lime ; and, as a 
 farther remedy against infection, he directed all the 
 parts of the vessel between the decks to be washed 
 with vinegar. The malady had taken too deep root to 
 be speedily eradicated. Mr. Banks was reduced so low 
 by it, that for some time there was no hope of his life ; 
 and so fatal was the disease to many others, that almost 
 every night a dead body was committed to the sea. 
 There were buried, in the course of about six weeks, 
 Mr. Sporing, a gentleman who was one of Mr. Banks's 
 assistants ; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter ; 
 Mr. Green, the astronomer ; the boatswain, the car- 
 penter, and his mate ; Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, 
 another midshipman, the old jolly sailmaker and his 
 assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, 
 two of the carpenter's crew, and nine seamen. In all, 
 the loss amounted to three and twenty persons, besides 
 the seven who died at Batavia. It is probable that 
 these calamitous events, which could not fail of making 
 a powerful impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, 
 might give occasion to his turning his thoughts more 
 zealously to those methods of preserving the health of 
 seamen, which he afterwards pursued with such re- 
 markable success. 
 
 On Friday the 15th of March, the Endeavour arrived 
 off the Cape of Good Hope ; and as soon as she was 
 brought to an anchor, our commander waited upon the 
 governor, from whom he received assurances that he 
 should be furnished with every supply which the 
 country could afford. His first care was to provide a 
 proper place for the sick, whose number was not small ; 
 and a house was speedily found, where it was agreed 
 that they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of 
 two shillings a day for each person. 
 
 The run from Java Head to the Cape of Good Hope 
 did not furnish many subjects of remark, that could be 
 of any great use to future voyagers. Such observations, 
 however, as occurred to him, the lieutenant has been 
 careful to record, not being willing to omit the least 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 137 
 
 circumstance that may contribute to the safety and 
 facility of navigation. 
 
 The lieutenant, having lain at the Cape to recover 
 the sick, to procure stores, and to refit his vessel, till 
 the 14th of April, then stood out of the bay, and pro- 
 ceeded on his voyage homeward. In the morning of 
 the 29th, he crossed his first meridian, having circum- 
 navigated the globe in the direction from east to west. 
 The consequence of which was, that he lost a day, an 
 allowance for which had been made at Batavia. On 
 the 1st of May he arrived at St. Helena, where he staid 
 till the 4th to refresh ; during which time Mr. Banks 
 employed himself in making the complete circuit of 
 the island, and in visiting the places most worthy of 
 observation. 
 
 The manner in which slaves are described as being 
 treated in this island, must be mentioned with indig- 
 nation. According to our commander's representation, 
 while every kind of labour is performed by them, they 
 are not furnished either with horses or with any of the 
 various machines which art has invented to facilitate 
 their task. Carts might conveniently be used in some 
 parts, and where the ground is too steep for them, 
 wheelbarrows might be employed to great advantage ; 
 and yet there is not a wheelbarrow in the whole island. 
 Though every thing which is conveyed from place to 
 place is done by slaves alone, they have not the simple 
 convenience of a porter's knot, but carry their burden 
 upon their heads. They appeared to be a miserable 
 race, worn out by the united operation of excessive 
 labour and ill usage ; and Mr. Cook was sorry to 
 observe, and to say, that instances of wanton cruelty 
 were much more frequent among his countrymen at 
 St. Helena, than among the Dutch, who are generally 
 reproached with want of humanity, both at Batavia 
 and the Cape of Good Hope. It is impossible for 
 a feeling mind to avoid being concerned that such 
 an account should be given of the conduct of any 
 who are entitled to the name of Britons. The lieu- 
 tenant's reproof, if just, hath, it may be hoped, long 
 
138 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 before this reached the place, and produced some good 
 effect*. If slavery, that disgrace to religion, to hu- 
 manity, and, I will add, to sound policy, must still be 
 continued, every thing ought to be done which can tend 
 to soften its horrors. 
 
 When our commander departed from St. Helena, on 
 the 4th, it was in company with the Portland man of 
 war, and twelve Indiamen. With this fleet he continued 
 to sail till the 10th, when, perceiving that the Endea- 
 vour proceeded much more heavily than any of the 
 other vessels, and that she was not likely to get home 
 so soon as the rest, he made a signal to speak with the 
 Portland. Upon this Captain Elliot himself came on 
 board, and Mr. Cook delivered to him the common 
 log-books of his ship, and the journals of some of the 
 officers. The Endeavour, however, kept in company 
 with the fleet till the morning of the 23d, at which 
 time there was not a single vessel in sight. On that 
 day died Mr. Hicks, and in the evening his body w r as 
 committed to the sea, with the usual ceremonies. Mr. 
 Charles Clerke, a young man extremely well qualified 
 for the station, and whose name wall hereafter fre- 
 quently occur, received an order from Mr. Cook to act 
 as lieutenant in Mr. Hicks's room. 
 
 The rigging and sails of the ship were now become 
 so bad, that something was continually giving Avay. 
 Nevertheless, our commander pursued his course in 
 safety ; and on the 10th of June, land, which proved to 
 be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the 
 boy who had first seen New Zealand. On the 11th, 
 the lieutenant ran up the channel. At six the next 
 
 * Near the conclusion of Captain Cook's second voyage, 
 there is the following short note. " In the account given of 
 St. Helena, in the narrative of my former voyage, I find some 
 mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton 
 cruelty over their slaves ; and they have had wheel carriages 
 and porters' knots for many years." This note I insert with 
 pleasure. Nevertheless, I cannot think that the lieutenant 
 could have gwen so strong a representation of things, if, at 
 the time in which it was written, it had been wholly without 
 foundation. 
 
FIRST VOYAGE. 139 
 
 morning he passed Beach y Head ; and in the afternoon 
 of the same dav, he came to an anchor in the Downs, 
 and went on shore at Deal. 
 
 Thus ended Mr. Cook's first voyage round the world, 
 in which he had gone through so many dangers, ex- 
 plored so many countries, and exhibited the strongest 
 proofs of his possessing an eminently sagacious and 
 active mind ; a mind that was equal to every perilous 
 enterprise, and to the boldest and most successful efforts 
 of navigation and discovery. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his 
 first and second Voyage. 
 
 The manner in which Lieutenant Cook had performed 
 his circumnavigation of the globe justly entitled him 
 to the protection of government, and the favour of his 
 sovereign. Accordingly, he was promoted to be a com- 
 mander in his majesty's navy, by commission bearing 
 date on the 29th of August, 1771. Mr. Cook, on this 
 occasion, from a certain consciousness of his own merit, 
 wished to have been appointed a post captain. But 
 the Earl of Sandwich, who was now at the head of the 
 Admiralty board, though he had the greatest regard 
 for our navigator, could not concede to his request, be- 
 cause a compliance with it would have been inconsistent 
 with the order of the naval service. The difference was 
 in point of rank only, and not of advantage. A com- 
 mander has the same pay as a post captain, and his 
 authority is the same when he is in actual employment. 
 The distinction is a necessary step in the progress to 
 the higher honours of the profession. 
 
 It cannot be doubted, but that the president and 
 council of the Royal Society were highly satisfied with 
 the manner in which the transit of Venus had been 
 observed. The papers of Mr. Cook and Mr. Green, 
 relative to this subject, were put into the hands of the 
 astronomer royal, to be by him digested, and that he 
 might deduce from them the important consequences 
 
140 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK BETWEEN 
 
 to science which resulted from the observation. This 
 was done by him with an accuracy and ability becoming 
 his high knowledge and character. On the 21st of May, 
 1772, Captain Cook communicated to the Royal Society, 
 in a letter addressed to Dr. Maskelyne, an " Account of 
 the flowing of the Tides in the South Sea, as observed 
 on board his Majesty's Bark, the Endeavour." 
 
 The reputation our navigator had acquired by his 
 late voyage was deservedly great ; and the desire of the 
 public, to be acquainted with the new scenes and new 
 objects which were now brought to light, was ardently 
 excited. It is not surprising, therefore, that different 
 attempts were made to satisfy the general curiosity. 
 There soon appeared a publication, entitled, " A Journal 
 of a Voyage round the World." This was the produc- 
 tion of some person who had been upon the expedition ; 
 and, though his account was dry and imperfect, it served, 
 in a certain degree, to relieve the eagerness of inquiry. 
 The journal of Sydney Parkinson, draftsman to Sir Jo- 
 seph Banks, to whom it belonged by ample purchase, 
 was likewise printed, from a copy surreptitiously ob- 
 tained ; but an injunction from the Court of Chancery 
 for some time prevented its appearance. This work, 
 though dishonestly given to the world, was recom- 
 mended by plates. But it was Dr. Hawkesworth's 
 account of Lieutenant Cook's voyage which completely 
 gratified the public curiosity. This account, which was 
 written by authority, was drawn up from the journal of 
 the lieutenant, and the papers of Sir Joseph Banks ; 
 and, besides the merit of the composition, derived an 
 extraordinary advantage from the number and excel- 
 lence of its charts and engravings, which were furnished 
 at the expense of government. The large price given 
 by the booksellers for this work, and the avidity with 
 which it was read, displayed, in the strongest light, the 
 anxiety of the nation to be fully informed in every thing 
 that belonged to the late navigation and discoveries. 
 
 Captain Cook, during his voyage, had sailed over the 
 Pacific Ocean in many of those latitudes, in which a 
 southern continent had been expected to lie. He had 
 ascertained, that neither New Zealand nor New Holland 
 
HIS FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGE. 141 
 
 were parts of such a continent. But the general ques- 
 tion concerning its existence had not been determined 
 by him, nor did he go out for that purpose, though 
 some of the reasons on which the notion of it had been 
 adopted were dispelled in the course of his navigation. 
 It is well known how fondly the idea of a Terra Austra- 
 lia incognita had for nearly two centuries been enter- 
 tained. Many plausible philosophical arguments have 
 been urged in its support, and many facts alleged in its 
 favour. The w liter of this narrative fully remembers 
 how much his imagination was captivated, in the more 
 early part of his life, with the hypothesis of a southern 
 continent. He has often dwelt upon it with rapture, 
 and been highly delighted with the authors who con- 
 tended for its existence, and displaved the mighty con- 
 sequences which would result from its being discovered. 
 Though his knowledge was infinitely exceeded by that 
 of some able men who paid a particular attention to the 
 subject, he did not come behind them in the sanguine- 
 ness of his hopes and expectation. Every thing, how- 
 ever, which relates to science must be separated from 
 fancy, and brought to the test of experiment : and here 
 was an experiment richly deserving to be tried. The 
 object, indeed, was of peculiar magnitude, and worthy 
 to be pursued by a great prince, and a great nation. 
 
 Happily, the period was arrived in Britain for the 
 execution of the most important scientific designs. A 
 regard to matters of this kind, though so honourable to 
 crowned heads, had heretofore been too much neglected 
 even by some of the best of our princes. Our present 
 sovereign had already distinguished his reign by his 
 patronage of science and literature ; but the beginnings 
 which had hitherto been made were only the pledges 
 of future munificence. With inspect to the object now 
 in view, the gracious dispositions of his majesty were 
 ardently seconded by the noble lord who had been 
 placed at the head of the board of admiralty. The Earl 
 of Sandwich was possessed of a mind, which w as capa- 
 ble of comprehending and encouraging the most en- 
 larged views and schemes with regard to navigation 
 and discovery. Accordingly, it was by- his particular 
 
142 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK BETWEEN 
 
 recommendation that a resolution was formed for the 
 appointment of an expedition, finally to determine the 
 question concerning the existence of a southern conti- 
 nent. Quiros seems to have been the first person, who 
 had any idea that such a continent existed, and he was 
 the first that was sent out for the sole purpose of ascer- 
 taining the fact. He did not succeed in the attempt ; 
 and the attempts of various navigators, down to the 
 present centur\", were equally unsuccessful. 
 
 When the design of accomplishing this great object 
 was resolved upon, it did not admit of any hesitation 
 by whom it was to be carried into execution. No 
 person was esteemed equally qualified with Captain 
 Cook, for conducting an enterprise, the view of which 
 was to give the utmost possible extent to the geography 
 of the globe, and the knowledge of navigation. For the 
 greater advantage of the undertaking, it was determined 
 that two ships should be employed ; and much attention 
 was paid to the choice of them, and to their equipment 
 for the service. After mature deliberation by the navy 
 board, during which particular regard was had to the 
 captain's wisdom and experience, it was agreed, that no 
 vessels were so proper for discoveries in distant un- 
 known parts, as those which were constructed like the 
 Endeavour. This opinion concurring with that of the 
 Earl of Sandwich, the admiralty came to a resolution 
 that two ships should be provided of a similar con- 
 struction. Accordingly, two vessels, both of which had 
 been built at Whitby, b}- the same person who built 
 the Endeavour, were purchased of Captain William 
 Hammond, of Hull. They were about fourteen or 
 sixteen months old at the time when they were bought, 
 and, in Captain Cook's judgment, were as well adapted 
 to the intended service as if they had been expressly 
 constructed for that purpose. The largest of the two, 
 which consisted of four hundred and sixty-two tons 
 burden, was named the Resolution. To the other, 
 which was three hundred and thirty-six tons burden, 
 was given the name of the Adventure. On the 28th of 
 November, 1771, Captain Cook was appointed to the 
 command of the former ; and, about the same time, 
 
HIS FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGE. 143 
 
 Mr. Tobias Furneaux was promoted to the command 
 of the latter. The complement of the Resolution, in- 
 cluding officers and men, was fixed at a hundred and 
 twelve persons ; and that of the Adventure, at eighty- 
 one. In the equipment of these ships, every circum- 
 stance was attended to that could contribute to the 
 comfort and success of the voyage. They were fitted 
 in the most complete manner, and supplied with every 
 extraordinary- article, which was suggested to be neces- 
 sary or useful. Lord Sandwich, whose zeal was inde- 
 fatigable upon this occasion, visited the vessels from 
 time to time, to be assured that the whole equipment 
 was agreeable to his wishes, and to the satisfaction of 
 those who were to engage in the expedition. Nor were 
 the navy and victualling boards wanting in procuring 
 for the ships the very best of stores and provisions, 
 with some alterations in the species of them, that were 
 adapted to the nature of the enterprise ; besides which, 
 there was an ample supply of antiscorbutic articles, 
 such as malt, sour krout, salted cabbage, portable 
 broth, saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and in- 
 spissated juice of wort and beer. 
 
 No less attention was paid to the cause of science in 
 general. The admiralty engaged Mr. William Hodges, 
 an excellent landscape painter, to embark in the voy- 
 age, in order to make drawings and paintings of such 
 objects, as could not so well be comprehended from 
 written descriptions. Mr. John Reinhold Forster and 
 his son were fixed upon to explore and collect the 
 natural history of the countries which might be visited, 
 and an ample sum was granted by parliament for the 
 purpose. That nothing might be wanting to accom- 
 plish the scientific views of the expedition, the board 
 of longitude agreed with Mr. William Wales and Mr. 
 William Bayley, to make astronomical observations. 
 Mr. Wales was stationed in the Resolution, and Mr. 
 Bayley in the Adventure. By the same board they 
 were furnished with the best of instruments, and par- 
 ticularly with four timepieces, three constructed by 
 Arnold, and one by Mr. Kendal, on Mr. Harrison's 
 principles. 
 
144 ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK. 
 
 Though Captain Cook had been appointed to the 
 command of the Resolution on the 28th of November, 
 1771, such were the preparations necessary for so long 
 and important a voyage, and the impediments which 
 occasionally and unavoidably occurred, that the ship 
 did not sail from Deptford till the 9th of April follow- 
 ing, nor did she leave Long Reach till the 10th of 
 May. In phing down the river, it was found neces- 
 sary to put into Sheerness, in order to make some 
 alterations in her upper works. These the officers of 
 the vard were directed immediately to take in hand ; 
 and Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser came down 
 to see them executed in the most effectual manner. 
 The ship being again completed for sea by the 22d of 
 June, Captain Cook on that day sailed from Sheerness, 
 and, on the 3d of Jul}', joined the Adventure in Ply- 
 mouth Sound. Lord Sandwich, in his return from a 
 visit to the dockyards, having met the Resolution on 
 the preceding evening, his lordship and Sir Hugh Pal- 
 liser gave the last mark of their great attention to the 
 object of the voyage, by coming on board, to assure 
 themselves, that every thing was done which was agree- 
 able to our commander's wishes, and that his vessel was 
 equipped entirely to his satisfaction. 
 
 At Plymouth, Captain Cook received his instruc- 
 tions ; with regard to which, without entering into a 
 minute detail of them, it is sufficient to say, that he was 
 sent out upon the most enlarged plan of discovery, that 
 is known in the history of navigation. He was in- 
 structed not only to circumnavigate the whole globe, 
 but to circumnavigate it in high southern latitudes, 
 making such traverses, from time to time, into every 
 corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as 
 miffht finally and effectually resolve the much agitated 
 question about the existence of a southern continent, in 
 any part of the southern hemisphere, to which access 
 could be had by the efforts of the boldest and most 
 skilful navigators. 
 
CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 145 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Narrative of Captain Cook's Second Voyage round the 
 the World. 
 
 On the 13th of July, Captain Cook sailed from Ply- 
 mouth, and on the 29th of the same month anchored in 
 Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. Having 
 ohtained a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries 
 at that island, he left it on the 1st of August, and sailed 
 to the southward. As he proceeded in his voyage, he 
 made three puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice 
 of malt ; and the liquor produced was very brisk and 
 drinkable. The heat of the weather, and the agitation 
 of the ship, had hitherto withstood all the endeavours 
 of our people to prevent this juice from being in a high 
 state of fermentation. If it could be kept from ferment- 
 ing it would be a most valuable article at sea. 
 
 The captain, having found that his stock of water 
 would not last to the Cape of Good Hope, without 
 putting his men to a scanty allowance, resolved to stop 
 at St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verd islands, for a 
 supply. At Port Praya, in this island, he anchored on 
 the 10th of August, and by the 14th had completed his 
 water, and procured some other refreshments ; upon 
 which he set sail and prosecuted his course. He em- 
 braced the occasion, which his touching at St. Jago 
 afforded him, of giving such a delineation and descrip- 
 tion of Port Praya, and of the supplies there to be 
 obtained, as might be of service to future navigators. 
 
 On the 20th of the month, the rain poured down 
 upon our voyagers, not in drops but in streams ; and 
 the wind at the same time being variable and rough, 
 the people w r ere obliged to attend so constantly upon 
 the decks, that few of them escaped being completely 
 soaked. This circumstance is mentioned, to show the 
 method that was taken by Captain Cook to preserve 
 his men from the evil consequences of the wet to which 
 they had been exposed. He had every thing to fear 
 from the rain, which is a great promoter of sickness in 
 hot climates. But to guard against this effect, he pur - 
 
 VOL. I. L 
 
146 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 sued some hints that had been suggested to him by Sir 
 Hugh Palliser and Captain Campbell, and took care 
 that the ship should be aired and dried with fires made 
 between the decks, and that the damp places of the 
 vessel should be smoked ; beside which the people were 
 ordered to air their bedding, and to wash and dry their 
 clothes, whenever there was an opportunity. The result 
 of these precautions was, that there was not one sick 
 person on board the Resolution. 
 
 Captain Cook, on the 8th of September, crossed the 
 line in the longitude of 8° west, and proceeded, with- 
 out meeting any thing remarkable, till the 11th of 
 October, when at 6h. 24m. 12s. by Mr. Kendal's watch, 
 the moon rose about four digits eclipsed ; soon after 
 which the gentlemen prepared to observe the end of 
 the eclipse. The observers were, the captain himself, 
 and Mr. Forster, Mr. Wales, Mr. Pickersgill, Mr. Gil- 
 bert, and Mr. Harvey. 
 
 Our commander had been informed, before he left 
 England, that he sailed at an improper season of the 
 j'ear, and that he should meet .with much calm weather, 
 near and under the line. But though such weather 
 may happen in some years, it is not always, or even 
 generally, to be expected. So far was it from being 
 the case with Captain Cook, that he had a brisk south- 
 west wind in those very latitudes where the calms had 
 been predicted : nor was he exposed to any of the tor- 
 nadoes, which are so much spoken of by other navi- 
 gators. On the 29th of the month, between eight and 
 nine o'clock at night, when our voyagers were near the 
 Cape of Good Hope, the whole sea, within the compass 
 of their sight, became at once, as it were, illuminated. 
 The captain had been formerly convinced, by Mr. 
 Banks and Dr. Solander, that such appearances in the 
 ocean were occasioned by insects. Mr. Forster, how- 
 ever, seemed disposed to adopt a different opinion. To 
 determine the question, our commander ordered some 
 buckets of water to be drawn up from alongside the 
 ship, which were found full of an innumerable quantity 
 of small globular insects, about the size of a common 
 pin's head, and quite transparent. Though no life was 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 147 
 
 perceived in them, there could be no doubt of their 
 being living animals, when in their own proper ele- 
 ment ; and Mr. Forster became now well satisfied that 
 they were the cause of the sea's illumination. 
 
 On the 30th, the Resolution and Adventure anchored 
 in Table Bay ; soon after which Captain Cook went on 
 shore, and, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and 
 the two Mr. Forsters, waited on Baron Plettenberg, 
 the governor of the Cape of Good Hope, who received 
 the gentlemen with great politeness, and promised 
 them every assistance the place could afford. From 
 him our commander learned, that two French ships 
 from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had 
 discovered land, in the latitude of 48° south, along 
 which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay, 
 into which they were upon the point of entering, when 
 they were driven off, and separated in a hard gale of 
 wind. Previously to this misfortune, they had lost 
 some of their boats and people, that had been sent to 
 sound the bay. Captain Cook was also informed by 
 Baron Plettenberg, that in the month of March, two 
 other ships, from the island of Mauritius, had touched 
 at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean ; 
 where they were going to make discoveries, under the 
 command of M. Marion. 
 
 From the healthy condition of the crews, both of the 
 Resolution and Adventure, it was imagined by the 
 captain that his stay at the Cape would be very short. 
 But the necessity of waiting till the requisite provi- 
 sions could be prepared and collected, kept him more 
 than three weeks at this place ; which time was im- 
 proved by him in ordering both the ships to be caulked 
 and painted, and in taking care that, in every respect, 
 their condition should be as good as when they left 
 England. 
 
 On the 22d of November, our commander sailed 
 from the Cape of Good Hope, and proceeded on his 
 voyage, in search of a southern continent. Having 
 gotten clear of the land, he directed his course for 
 Cape Circumcision; and, judging that cold weather 
 would soon approach, he ordered slops to be served 
 
148 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 to such of the people as were in want of them, and 
 gave to each man the fearnought jacket and trowsers 
 allowed by the admiralty. On the 29th, the wind, 
 which was west-north-west, increased to a storm, that 
 continued, with some few intervals of moderate wea- 
 ther, till the 6th of December. By this gale, which 
 was attended with hail and rain, and which blew at 
 times with such violence that the ships could carry no 
 sails, our voyagers were driven far to the eastward of 
 their intended course, and no hopes were left to the 
 captain of reaching Cape Circumcision. A still greater 
 misfortune was the loss of the principal part of the live 
 stock on board, consisting of sheep, hogs, and geese. 
 At the same time, the sudden transition from warm 
 mild weather", to weather which was extremely cold 
 and wet, was so severely felt by our people, that it was 
 necessary to make some addition to their allowance of 
 spirits, by giving each of them a dram on particular 
 occasions. 
 
 Our navigators, on the 10th of December, began to 
 meet with islands of ice. One of these islands was so 
 much concealed from them by the haziness of the wea- 
 ther, accompanied with snow and sleet, that they were 
 steering directly towards it, and did not see it till it 
 was at a less distance than that of a mile. Captain 
 Cook judged it to be about fifty feet high, and half a 
 mile in circuit. It was flat at the top, and its sides 
 rose in a perpendicular direction, against which the 
 sea broke to a great height. The weather continuing 
 to be hazy, the captain, on account of the ice islands, 
 was obliged to proceed with the utmost caution. Six 
 of them were passed on the twelfth, some of which 
 were nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high : 
 nevertheless, such were the force and height of the 
 waves, that the sea broke quite over them. Hence was 
 exhibited a view, that for a few moments was pleasing 
 to the eye ; but the pleasm - e was soon swallowed up in 
 the horror which seized upon the mind, from the pros- 
 pect of danger. For if a ship should be so unfortunate 
 as to get on the weather side of one of these islands, 
 she would be dashed to pieces in a moment. 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 149 
 
 The vessels, on the 14th, were stopped by an im- 
 mense field of low ice, to which no end could be seen, 
 either to the east, west, or south. In different parts of 
 this field were islands or hills of ice, like those which 
 our voyagers had found floating in the sea, and twenty 
 of which had presented themselves to view the day 
 before. Some of the people on board imagined that 
 they saw land over the ice, and Captain Cook himself 
 at first entertained the same sentiment. But upon 
 more narrowly examining these ice hills, and the va- 
 rious appearances they made when seen through the 
 haze, he was induced to change his opinion. On the 
 18th, though in the morning our navigators had been 
 quite imbayed, they were, notwithstanding, at length 
 enabled to get clear of the field of ice. They were, 
 however, at the same time, carried in among the ice 
 islands, which perpetually succeeded one another ; 
 which were almost equally dangerous; and the avoid- 
 ing of which was a matter of the greatest difficulty. 
 But perilous as it is to sail in a thick fog, among these 
 floating rocks, as our commander properly called 
 them ; this is preferable to the being entangled with 
 immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. 
 In this latter case the great danger to be apprehended, 
 is the getting fast in the ice ; a situation which would 
 be alarming in the highest degree. 
 
 ' It had been a generally received opinion, that such 
 ice as hath now been described, is formed in bays and 
 rivers. Agreeably to this supposition, our voyagers 
 were led to believe that land was not far distant, and 
 that it lay to the southward behind the ice. As, there- 
 fore, they had sailed above thirty leagues along the 
 edge of the ice, without finding a passage to the south, 
 Captain Cook determined to run thirty or forty leagues 
 to the east, and afterwards to endeavour to get to the 
 southward. If, in this attempt, he met with no land 
 or other impediment, his design was to stretch behind 
 the ice, and thus to bring the matter to a decision. 
 
 The weather, at this time, affected the senses with a 
 feeling of cold much greater than that which was 
 
150 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 pointed out by the thermometer, so that the whole 
 crew complained. In order the better to enable them 
 to sustain the severity of the cold, the captain directed 
 the sleeves of their jackets to be lengthened with baize ; 
 and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff*, 
 strengthened with canvass. These precautions greatly 
 contributed to their comfort and advantage. It is 
 worthy of observation,, that although the weather was 
 as sharp, on the 25th of December, as might have 
 been expected, in the same month of the year, in any 
 part of England, this was the middle of summer with 
 our navigators. Some of the people now appearing to 
 have svmptoms of the scurvy, fresh wort was given 
 them every day, prepared under the direction of the 
 surgeons, from the malt which had been provided for 
 the purpose. 
 
 By the 29th, it became sufficiently ascertained, from 
 the course our commander had pursued, that the field 
 of ice, along which the ships had sailed, did not join 
 to any land, as had been conjectured. At this time, 
 Captain Cook came to a resolution, provided he met 
 with no impediment, to run as far west as the meridian 
 of Cape Circumcision. "While he was prosecuting this 
 design, a gale arose, on the 31st, which brought with 
 it such a sea, as rendered it very dangerous for the 
 vessels to remain among the ice ; and the danger was 
 increased by discovering an immense field to the north, 
 which extended farther than the eye could reach. As 
 our voyagers were not above two or three miles from 
 this field, and were surrounded by loose ice, there was 
 no time to deliberate. They hauled to the south ; and 
 though they happily got clear, it was not till the ships 
 had received several hard knocks from the loose pieces, 
 which were of the largest kind. On Friday, the 1st of 
 January, 1773, the gale abated ; and on the next day, 
 in the afternoon, our people had the felicity of enjoying 
 the sight of the moon, the face of which had not been 
 seen by them but once since they had departed from 
 the Cape of Good Hope. Hence a judgment may be 
 formed of the sort of weather they had been exposed 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 151 
 
 to, from the time of their leaving that place. The 
 present opportunity was eagerly seized, for making 
 several observations of the sun and moon. 
 
 Captain Cook was now nearly in the same longitude 
 which is assigned to Cape Circumcision, and about 
 ninety-five leagues to the south of the latitude in which 
 it is said to lie. At the same time the weather was so 
 clear, that land might have been seen at the distance 
 of fourteen or fifteen leagues. He concluded it, there- 
 fore, to be very probable, that what Bouvet took for 
 land, was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by 
 loose or field ice. Our present navigators had natu- 
 rally been led into a similar mistake. The conjecture, 
 that such ice as had lately been seen was joined to land, 
 Was a very plausible one, though not founded on fact. 
 Upon the whole, there was good reason to believe, that 
 no land was to be met with, under this meridian, be- 
 tween the latitude of fifty-five and fifty-nine, where 
 some had been supposed to exist. 
 
 Amidst the obstructions Captain Cook was exposed 
 to, from the ice islands which perpetually succeeded 
 each other, he derived one advantage from them, and 
 that was, a supply of fresh water. Though the melting 
 and stowing away of the ice takes up some time, and 
 is, indeed, rather tedious, this method of watering is 
 otherwise the most expeditious our commander had 
 ever known. The water produced was perfectly sweet 
 and well tasted. Upon the ice islands, penguins, alba- 
 trosses, and other birds were frequently seen. It had 
 hitherto been the received opinion, that such birds 
 never go far from land, and that the sight of them is a 
 sure indication of its vicinity. That this opinion is not 
 well founded, at least where ice islands exist, was now 
 evinced by multiplied experience. 
 
 By Sunday the 17th of January, Captain Cook 
 reached the latitude of 67° 15' south, when he could 
 advance no farther. At this time the ice was entirely 
 closed to the south, in the whole extent from east to 
 west-south-west, without the least appearance of any 
 opening. The captain, therefore, thought it no longer 
 prudent to persevere in sailing southward ; especially 
 
152 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 as the summer was already half spent, and there was 
 little reason to hope that it would be found practicable 
 to get round the ice. Having taken this resolution, 
 he determined to proceed directly in search of the 
 land which had lately been discovered by the French ; 
 and as, in pursuing his purpose, the weather was clear 
 at intervals, he spread the ships abreast four miles 
 from each other, in order the better to investigate any 
 thing that might lie in their way. On the 1st of Fe- 
 bruary our voyagers were in the latitude of 48° 30' 
 south, and in longitude 58° T east, nearly in the meri- 
 dian of the island of St. Mauritius. This was the 
 situation in which the land said to have been disco- 
 vered by the French was to be expected ; but as to 
 signs of it had appeared, our commander bore away 
 to the east. Captain Furneaux, on the same dav, in- 
 formed Captain Cook that he had just seen a large float 
 of sea, or rock weed, and about it several of the birds 
 called divers. These were certain signs of the vicinitv 
 of land, though whether it lay to the east or west 
 could not possibly be known. Our commander, there- 
 fore, formed the design of proceeding in his present 
 latitude four or five degrees of longitude to the west 
 of the meridian he was uow in, and then to pursue his 
 researches eastward. The west and north-west winds, 
 which had continued for some days, prevented him 
 from carrying this purpose into execution. However, 
 he was convinced, from the perpetual high sea he had 
 lately met with, that there could be no great extent of 
 land to the west. 
 
 While Captain Cook, on the next day, was steering 
 eastward, Captain Furneaux told him that he thought 
 the land was to the north-west of them ; as he had, at 
 one time, observed the sea to be smooth, when the 
 wind blew in that direction. This observation was by 
 no means conformable to the remarks which had been 
 made by our commander himself. Nevertheless, such 
 was his readiness to attend to every suggestion, that he 
 resolved to clear up the point, if the wind would admit 
 of his getting to the west in any reasonable time. The 
 wind, by veering to the north, did admit of his pursuing 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 153 
 
 the search ; and the result of it was, his conviction that 
 if any laud was near, it could only be an island of no 
 considerable extent. 
 
 Captain Cook and his philosophical friends, while 
 they were traversing this part of the southern ocean, 
 paid particular attention to the variation of the com- 
 pass, which they found to be from 27° 50' to 30° 26' 
 west. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 
 29° 4', was the nearest the truth, as it coincided with 
 the variation observed on board the Adventure. One 
 unaccountable circumstance is worthy of notice, though 
 it did not now occur for the first time. It is, that 
 when the sun was on the starboard of the ship, the 
 variation was the least ; and when on the larboard 
 side, the greatest. 
 
 On the 8th, our commander, in consequence of no 
 signals having been answered by the Adventure, had 
 reason to apprehend that a separation had taken place. 
 After waiting two days, during which guns were kept 
 discharging, and false fires were burned in the night, 
 the fact was confirmed ; so that the Resolution was 
 obliged to proceed alone in her voyage. As she pur- 
 sued her course, penguins and other birds, from time 
 to time, appeared in great numbers ; the meeting with 
 which gave our navigators some hopes of finding land, 
 and occasioned various speculations with regard to its 
 situation. Experience, however, convinced them, that 
 no stress was to be laid on such hopes. They were so 
 often deceived, that they could no longer look upon 
 any of the oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, 
 as sure signs of the vicinity of land. 
 
 In the morning of the 17th, between midnight and 
 three o'clock, lights were seen in the heavens, similar 
 to those which are known in the northern hemisphere, 
 by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cook 
 had never heard that an Aurora Australis had been 
 seen before. The officer of the watch observed, that 
 it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a circular 
 form ; at which time, its light was very strong, and its 
 appearance beautiful. It was not perceived to have 
 any particular direction. On the contrary, at various 
 
154 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 times, it was conspicuous in different parts of the 
 heavens, and diffused its light throughout the whole 
 atmosphere. 
 
 On the 20th, our navigators imagined that they saw 
 land to the south-west. Their conviction of its real 
 existence was so strong, that they had no doubt of the 
 matter ; and accordingly they endeavoured to work 
 up to it, in doing which the weather was favourable to 
 their purpose. However, what had been taken for land 
 proved only to be clouds, that in the evening entirely 
 disappeared, and left a clear horizon, in which nothing 
 could be discerned but ice islands. At night the Aurora 
 Australis was again seen, and the appearance it assumed 
 was very brilliant and luminous. It first discovered 
 itself in the east, and in a short time spread over the 
 whole heavens. 
 
 In the night of the 23d, when the ship was in lati- 
 tude 61° 52^ south, and longitude 95° 2' east, the 
 weather being exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, 
 with sleet and snow, our voyagers were on every side 
 surrounded with danger. In such a situation, it was 
 natural for them to wish for daylight : but daylight, 
 when it came, served only to increase their apprehen- 
 sions, by exhibiting those huge mountains of ice to 
 their view, which the darkness had prevented them 
 from seeing. These unfavourable circumstances, at so 
 advanced a season of the year, discouraged Captain 
 Cook from putting into execution a resolution he had 
 formed, of once more crossing the antarctic circle. 
 According^, early in the morning of the 24th, he stood 
 to the north, with a very hard gale, and a very high 
 sea, which made great destruction among the ice islands. 
 But so far was this incident from being of any advan- 
 tage to our navigators, that it greatly increased the 
 number of pieces they had to avoid. The large pieces, 
 which broke from the ice islands, were found to be 
 much more dangerous than the islands themselves. 
 "While the latter rose so high out of the water, that 
 they could generally be seen, unless the weather was 
 very thick and hazy, before our people nearly ap- 
 proached them, the others could not be discerned, in 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 155 
 
 the night, till they were under the ship's hows. These 
 dangers, however, were now become so familiar to the 
 captain and his company, that the apprehensions they 
 caused were never of long duration ; and a compensa- 
 tion was, in some degree, made for them, by the sea- 
 sonable supplies of fresh water, which the ice islands 
 afforded, and by their very romantic appearance. The 
 foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes 
 and caverns which were formed in many of them greatly 
 heightened the scene ; and the whole exhibited a view, 
 that at once filled the mind with admiration and hor- 
 ror, and could only be described by the hand of an 
 able painter. 
 
 In sailing from the 25th to the 28th, the wind was 
 accompanied with a large hollow sea, which rendered 
 Captain Cook certain, that no land, of any considerable 
 extent, could lie within a hundred or a hundred and 
 fifty leagues from east to south-west. Though this was 
 still the summer season in that part of the world, and 
 the weather was become somewhat warmer than it had 
 been before, yet such were the effects of the cold, that 
 a sow having farrowed nine pigs in the morning, all of 
 them, notwithstanding the utmost care to prevent it, 
 were killed before four o'clock in the afternoon. From 
 the same cause, the captain himself and several of his 
 people had their fingers and toes chilblained. For some 
 days afterward, the cold considerably abated ; but still 
 it could not be said that there was summer weather, 
 according to our commander's ideas of summer in the 
 northern hemisphere, as far as sixty degrees of latitude, 
 which was nearly as far as he had then been. 
 
 As he proceeded on his voyage, from the 28th of 
 February to the 11th of March, he had ample reason 
 to conclude, from the swell of the sea and other cir- 
 cumstances, that there could be no laud to the south, 
 but what must lie at a great distance. 
 
 The weather having been clear on the 13th and 14th, 
 Mr. Wales had an opportunity of getting some obser- 
 vations of the sun and moon ; the results of which, 
 reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58° 22' south, 
 gave 136° 22* east longitude. Mr. Kendal's and Mr. 
 
156 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 Arnold's watches gave each of them 134° 42' ; and this 
 was the first and only time in which they had pointed 
 out the same longitude, since the ships had departed 
 from England. The greatest difference, however, be- 
 tween them, since our voyagers had left the Cape, had 
 not much exceeded two degrees. 
 
 From the moderate, and what might almost be called 
 pleasant weather, which had occurred for two or three 
 days, Captain Cook began to wish that he had been a 
 few degrees of latitude farther south ; and he was even 
 tempted to incline his course that way. But he soon 
 met with weather which convinced him that he had 
 proceeded full far enough ; and that the time was ap- 
 proaching when these seas could not be navigated 
 without enduring intense cold. As he advanced in his 
 course, he became perfectly assured, from repeated 
 proofs, that he had left no land behind him in the 
 direction of west-south-west ; and that no land lay to 
 the south on this side sixty degrees of latitude. He 
 came, therefore, to a resolution, on the 17th, to quit the 
 high southern latitudes, and to proceed to New Zea 
 land, with a view of looking for the Adventure, and of 
 refreshing his people. He had, also, some thoughts, 
 and even a desire, of visiting the east coast of Van 
 Dieman's Land, in order to satisfy himself whether it 
 joined the. coast of New South Wales. The wind, 
 however, not permitting him to execute this part of his 
 design, he shaped his course for New Zealand, in sight 
 of which he arrived on the 25th, and where he came 
 to anchor on the day following, in Dusky Bay. He had 
 now been a hundred and seventeen days at sea, during 
 which time he had sailed three thousand six hundred 
 and sixty leagues without having once come within 
 sight of land. 
 
 After so long a voyage, in a high southern latitude, 
 it might reasonably have been expected, that many of 
 Captain Cook's people would be ill of the scurvy. 
 This, however, was not the case. So salutan' were the 
 effects of the sweet wort, and several articles of pro- 
 vision, and especially of the frequent airing and sweet- 
 ening of the ship, that there was only one man on 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 157 
 
 board wbo could be said to be much afflicted with the 
 disease ; and even in that man, it was chiefly occa- 
 sioned by a bad habit of body, and a complication of 
 other disorders. 
 
 As our commander did not like the place in which 
 be had anchored, he sent Lieutenant Pickersgill over 
 to the south-east side of the bay, in search of a better ; 
 and the lieutenant succeeded in finding a harbour that 
 was in every respect desirable. In the meanwhile, the 
 fishing-boat was very successful ; returning with fish 
 sufficient for the whole crew's supper ; and in the 
 morning of the next day, as many were caught as 
 served for dinner. Hence were derived certain hopes 
 of being plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did 
 the shores and woods appear more destitute of wild- 
 fowl ; so that our people had the prospect of enjoying, 
 with ease, what, in their situation, might be called the 
 luxuries of life. These agreeable circumstances deter- 
 mined Captain Cook to stay some time in the bay, in 
 order to examine it thoroughly ; as no one had ever 
 landed before on any of the southern parts of New 
 Zealand. 
 
 On the 27th, the ship entered Pickersgill Harbour ; 
 for so it was called, from the name of the gentleman 
 by whom it had first been discovered. Here wood, for 
 fuel and other purposes, was immediately at hand ; and 
 a fine stream of fresh water was not above a hundred 
 yards from the stem of the vessel. Our voyagers, 
 being thus advantageously situated, began vigorously 
 to prepare for their necessary occupations, by clearing 
 places in the woods, in order to set up the astronomers 
 observatory, and the forge for the iron work, and to 
 erect tents for the sailmakers and coopers. They ap- 
 plied themselves, also, to the brewing of beer from the 
 branches or leaves of a tree, which greatly resembled 
 the American black spruce. Captain Cook was per- 
 suaded, from the knowledge which he had of this tree, 
 and from the similarity it bore to the spruce, that, with 
 the addition of inspissated juice of wort and melasses, 
 it would make a very wholesome liquor, and supply the 
 want of vegetables, of which the country was destitute. 
 
158 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 It appeared, by the event, that he was not mistaken in 
 his judgment. 
 
 Several of the natives were seen on the 28th, who 
 took little notice of the English, and were very shy of 
 access ; and the captain did not choose to force an 
 intercourse with them, as he had been instructed, by 
 former experience, that the best method of obtaining it 
 was to leave the time and place to themselves. While 
 our commander continued in his present situation, he 
 took every opportunity of examining the bay. As he 
 was prosecuting his survey of it, on the 6th of April, 
 his attention was directed to the north side, where he 
 discovered a fine capacious cove, in the bottom of 
 which is a fresh-wateF river. On the west side are 
 several beautiful cascades ; and the shores are so steep 
 that water might directly be conveyed from them into 
 the ship. Feurteen ducks, besides other birds, having 
 been shot in this place, he gave it the name of Duck 
 Cove. When he was returning in the evening, he 
 met with three of the natives, one man and two women, 
 whose fears he soon dissipated, and whom he engaged 
 in a conversation, that was little understood on either 
 side. The youngest of the women had a volubility of 
 tongue that could not be exceeded ; and she entertained 
 Captain Cook, and the gentlemen who accompanied 
 him, with a dance. 
 
 By degrees, our commander obtained the good will 
 and confidence of the Indians. His presents, how- 
 ever, were at first received with much indifference, 
 hatchets and spike-nails excepted. At a visit, on the 
 12th, from a family of the natives, the captain, per- 
 ceiving they approached the ship with great caution, 
 met them in a boat, which he quitted when he came 
 near them, and went into their canoe. After all, he 
 could not prevail upon them to go on board the Reso- 
 lution ; but at length they put on shore in a little 
 creek, and seating themselves abreast of the English 
 vessel, entered into familiar conversation with several 
 of the officers and seamen ; in which they paid a much 
 greater regard to some, whom they probably mistook 
 for females, than to others. So well indeed, were they 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 159 
 
 now reconciled to our voyagers, that they took up their 
 quarters nearly within the distance of a hundred yards 
 from the ship's watering-place. Captain Cook, in his 
 interview with them, had caused the bagpipes and fife 
 to play, and the drum to beat. The two former they 
 heard with apparent insensibility ; but the latter ex- 
 cited in them a certain degree of attention. 
 
 On the 18th, a chief, with whom some connexions 
 had already been formed, was induced, together with 
 his daughter, to come on board the Resolution. Pre- 
 viously to his doing it, he presented the captain with a 
 piece of cloth, and a green talk hatchet. He gave 
 also a piece of cloth to Mr. Forster ; and the girl gave 
 another to Mr. Hodges. Though this custom of making 
 presents, before any are received, is common with the 
 natives of the South Sea isles, our commander had 
 never till now seen it practised in New Zealand. 
 Another thing performed by the chief before he went 
 on board was the taking of a small green branch in his 
 hand, with which he struck the ships side several times, 
 repeating a speech or prayer. This manner, as it were, 
 of making peace is likewise prevalent among all the 
 nations of the South Seas. "When the chief was carried 
 into the cabin, he viewed every part of it with some 
 degree of surprise ; but it was not possible to fix his 
 attention to any one object for a single moment. The 
 works of art appeared to him in the same light as those 
 of nature, and were equally distant from his powers of 
 comprehension. He and his daughter seemed to be the 
 most struck with the number of the decks, and other 
 parts of the ship. 
 
 As Captain Cook proceeded in examining Dusky Bay, 
 he occasionally met with some few more of the natives, 
 with regard to whom he used every mode of concilia- 
 tion. On the 20th, the chief and his family, who had 
 been more intimate with our navigators than anv of the 
 rest of the Indians, went away, and never returned 
 again. This was the more extraordinary, as in all his 
 visits he had been gratified with presents. From dif- 
 ferent persons, he had gotten nine or ten hatchets, and 
 three or four times that number of large spike-nails, 
 
160 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 besides a variety of other articles. So far as these 
 things might be deemed riches in New Zealand, he was 
 undoubtedly become by far the most wealthy man in 
 the whole country. 
 
 One employment of our voyagers, while in Dusky 
 Bay, consisted in seal-hunting, an animal which was 
 found serviceable for three purposes. The skins were 
 made use of for rigging, the fat afforded oil for the 
 lamps, and the flesh was eaten. On the 24th, the cap- 
 tain, having five geese remaining of those he had 
 brought with him from the Cape of Good Hope, went 
 and left them at a place to which he gave the name of 
 Goose Cove. This place he fixed upon for two reasons ; 
 first, because there were no inhabitants to disturb 
 them ; and, secondly, because here was the greatest 
 supply of proper food ; so that he had no doubt of their 
 breeding, and hoped that in time they might spread over 
 the whole country, to its eminent advantage. Some 
 days afterward, when every thing belonging to the 
 ship had been removed from the shore, he set fire to 
 the topwood in order to dry a piece of ground, which 
 he dug up, and sowed with several sorts of garden 
 seeds. The soil, indeed, was not such as to promise 
 much success to the planter ; but it was the best that 
 could be discovered. 
 
 The 25th of April was the eighth fair day our people 
 had successively enjoyed ; and there was reason to 
 believe that such a circumstance was very uncommon 
 in the place where they now lay, and at that season of 
 the year. This favourable weather afforded them the 
 opportunity of more speedily completing their wood 
 and water, and of putting the ship into a condition for 
 sea. On the evening of the 25th, it began to rain ; and 
 the weather was afterward extremely variable, being, 
 at times, in a high degree wet, cold, and stormy. No- 
 thing, however, prevented Captain Cook from pro- 
 secuting, with his usual sagacity and diligence, his 
 search into every part of Dusky Bay ; and, as there are 
 few places in New Zealand where necessary refresh- 
 ments may be so plentifully obtained, as in this bay, he 
 hath taken care to give such a description of it, and of 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 161 
 
 the adjacent country, as may be of service to succeed- 
 ing navigators. Although this country lies far remote 
 from what is now the trading part of the world, yet, as 
 he justly observes, we can by no means tell what use 
 future ages may derive from the discoveries made in 
 the present. 
 
 The various anchoring places are delineated on our 
 commander's chart, and the most convenient of them 
 he has particularly described. Not only about Dusky 
 Bay, but through all the southern part of the western 
 coast of Tavai-poenammo, the country is exceedingly 
 mountainous. A prospect more rude and craggy is 
 rarely to be met with ; for, inland, there are only to 
 be seen the summits of mountains of a tremendous 
 height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren 
 and naked, excepting where they are covered with 
 snow. But the laud which borders on the seacoast is 
 thickly clothed with wood almost down to the water's 
 edge ; and this is the case with regard to all the ad- 
 joining islands. The trees are of various kinds, and 
 are lit for almost every possible use. Excepting in the 
 river Thames, Captain Cook had not found finer timber 
 in all New Zealand ; the most considerable species of 
 which is the spruce tree ; for that name he had given 
 it, from the similaritv of its foliage to the American 
 spruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears 
 a greater resemblance to the pitch pine. Many of these 
 trees are so large, that they would be able to furnish 
 mainmasts for fifty-gun ships. Amidst the variety of 
 aromatic trees and shrubs which this part of New Zea- 
 land produced, there was none which bore fruit fit to 
 be eaten. The country was not found so destitute of 
 quadrupeds as was formerly imagined. 
 
 As Dusky Bay presented many advantages to our 
 na\ igators, so it was attended with some disagreeable 
 circumstances. There were gr^at numbers of small 
 black sandflies, which were troublesome to a degree that 
 our commander had never experienced before. An- 
 other evil arose from the continual quantity of rain 
 that occurred in the bav. This might, indeed, in part 
 proceed from the season of the year: but it is pre 
 
 VOL. i. H 
 
1G2 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 bable that the country must at all times be subject to 
 much wet weather, iu consequence of the vast height 
 and vicinity of the mountains. It was remarkable that 
 the rain, though our people were perpetually exposed 
 to it, was not productive of any evil consequences. 
 On the contrary, such of the men as were sick and 
 complaining when they entered the bay, recovered 
 daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and 
 vigorous. So happy a circumstance could only be at- 
 tributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh 
 provisions it afforded ; among which the beer was a 
 very material article. 
 
 The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are of the same race 
 with the other natives of New Zealand, speak the same 
 language, and adhere nearly to the same customs. 
 Their mode of life appears to be a wandering one ; 
 and though they are few in number, no traces were 
 remarked of their families being connected together in 
 any close bonds of union or friendship. 
 
 While the Resolution lay in the bay, Mr. Wales 
 made a variety of scientific observations relative to 
 latitude and longitude, the variation of the compass, 
 and the diversity of the tides. 
 
 When Captain Cook left Dusky Bay, he directed 
 his course for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he ex- 
 pected to find the Adventure. This was on the 11th of 
 May, and nothing remarkable occurred till the 17th, 
 when the Avind at once flattened to a calm, the sky 
 became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and 
 there was every prognostication of a tempest. Soon 
 after, six waterspouts were seen, four of which rose 
 and spent themselves between the ship and the land ; 
 the fifth was at a considerable distance, on the other 
 side of the vessel ; and the sixth, the progressive mo- 
 tion of which was not in a straight, but in a crooked 
 line, passed within fifty yards of the stern of the Reso- 
 lution, without producing any evil effect. As the cap- 
 tain had been informed that the firing of a gun would 
 dissipate waterspouts, he was sorry that he had not 
 tried the experiment. But, though he was near enough, 
 and had a gun ready for the purpose, his mind was so 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 163 
 
 deeply engaged in viewing these extraordinary meteors, 
 that he forgot to give the necessary directions. 
 
 On the next day, the Resolution came within sight 
 of Queen Charlotte's Sound, where Captain Cook had 
 the satisfaction of discovering the Adventure ; and both 
 ships felt uncommon joy at thus meeting again after an 
 absence of fourteen weeks. As the events which hap- 
 pened to Captain Furneaux, during the separation of 
 the two vessels, do not fall within the immediate de- 
 sign of the present narrative, it may be sufficient to 
 observe, that he had an opportunity of examining, Avith 
 somewhat more accuracy than had hitherto been done, 
 Van Dieman's Land ; and his opinion was, that there 
 are no straits between this land and New Holland, but 
 a very deep bay. He met, likewise, with farther proofs, 
 that the natives of New Zealand are eaters of human 
 flesh. 
 
 The morning after Captain Cook's arrival in Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound, he went himself, at daybreak, to 
 look for scurvygrass, celery, and other vegetables; and 
 he had the good fortune to return with a boatload, in 
 a very short space of time. Having found, that a suffi- 
 cient quantity of these articles might be obtained for 
 the crews of both the ships, he gave orders that they 
 should be boiled with wheat and portable broth, every 
 dav for breakfast ; and with pease and broth for din- 
 ner. Experience had taught him, that the vegetables 
 now mentioned, when thus dressed, are extremely 
 beneficial to seamen, in removing the various scorbutic 
 complaints to which they are subject. 
 
 Our commander had entertained a desire of visiting 
 Van Dieman's Land, in order to inform himself whether 
 it made a part of New Holland. But as this point had 
 been, in a great measure, cleared up by Captain Fur- 
 neaux, he came to a resolution to continue his researches 
 to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46° ; and 
 he directed accordingly, that the ships should be got- 
 ten ready for putting to sea as soon as possible. On 
 the 20th, he sent on shore the only ewe and ram that 
 remained of those which, with the intention of leaving 
 them in this country, he had brought from the Cape of 
 
1€4 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 Good Hope. Soon after he visited several gardens, 
 that by order of Captain Furneaux had been made and 
 planted with various articles ; all of which were in 
 such a flourishing state, that, if duly attended to, they 
 promised to be of great utility to the natives. The 
 nest day, Captain Cook himself set some men to work 
 to form a garden on Loug Island, which he stocked 
 with different seeds, and particularlv with the roots of 
 turnips, carrots, parsnips, and potatoes. These were 
 the vegetables that would be of the most real use to 
 the Indians, and of these it was easy to give them an 
 idea, by comparing them with such roots as they them- 
 selves knew. On the 22d, Captain Cook received the 
 unpleasant intelligence, that the ewe and ram, which 
 with so much care and trouble he had brought to this 
 place, were both of them found dead. It was supposed 
 that they had eaten some poisonous plant ; and by this 
 accident all the captain's hopes of stocking New Zea- 
 land with a breed of sheep were instantly blasted. 
 
 The intercourse which our great navigator had with 
 the inhabitants of the country, during this his second 
 visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was of a friendly 
 nature. Two or three families took up their abode 
 near the ships, and employed themselves daily in fish- 
 ing, and in supplying the English with the fruits of 
 their labour. No small advantage hence accrued to 
 our people, who were by no means such expert fishers 
 as the natives, nor were any of our methods of fishing 
 equal to theirs. Thus, in almost every state of society, 
 particular arts of life are carried to perfection ; and 
 there is something which the most polished nations may 
 learn from the most barbarous. 
 
 On the 2d of June, when the Resolution and Adven- 
 ture were almost ready to put to sea, Captain Cook 
 sent on shore, on the east side of the sound, two goats, 
 a male and female ; and Captain Furneaux left, near 
 Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows. The 
 gentlemen had little doubt but that the country would, 
 in time, be stocked with these animals, provided they 
 were not destroyed by the Indians before they became 
 wild. Afterwards there would be no danger; and as 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 165 
 
 the natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it 
 was hoped that it might be some time before they 
 would be discovered. 
 
 It is remarkable that, during Captain Cook's second 
 visit to Charlotte Sound, he was not able to recollect 
 the face of any one person whom he had seen there 
 three years before. Nor did it once appear, that even 
 a single Indian had the least knowledge of our com- 
 mander, or of any of our people who had been with 
 him in his last voyage. Hence he thought it highly 
 probable, that the greatest part of the natives who in- 
 habited this sound in the beginning of the year 1770, 
 had either since been driven out of it, or had removed, 
 of their own accord, to some other situation. Not one- 
 third of the inhabitants were there now, that had been 
 seen at that time. Their strong hold on the point of 
 Motuara was deserted, and in every part of the sound 
 many forsaken habitations were discovered. In the 
 captain's opinion, there was not any reason to believe, 
 that the place had ever been very populous. From 
 comparing the two voyages together, it may be col- 
 lected, that the Indians of Eahei-nomauwe are in some- 
 what of a more improved state of society than those of 
 Tavai-poenammo. 
 
 Part of the 4th of June was employed by Captain 
 Cook in visiting a chief and a whole tribe of the 
 natives, consisting of between ninety and a hundred 
 persons, including men, women, and children. After 
 the captain had distributed some presents among these 
 people, and shown to the chief the gardens which had 
 been made, he returned on board, and spent the re- 
 mainder of the day in the celebration of his royal 
 master's nativity. Captain Furneaux and all his offi- 
 cers were fan ited upon the occasion ; and the seamen 
 were enabled, by a double allowance, to partake of the 
 general joy. 
 
 As some might think it an extraordinary step in our 
 commander, to proceed in discoveries so far south as 
 forty-six degrees of latitude, in the very depth of Avi li- 
 ter, he has recorded his motives for this part of his 
 conduct. Winter, he acknowledges, is by no means 
 
166 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 favourable for discoveries. Nevertheless, it appeared 
 to him to be necessary that something should be done 
 in that season, in order to lessen the work in which he 
 was eng-ajjed : and lest he should not be able to finish 
 the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific 
 Ocean in the ensuing summer. Besides, if he should 
 discover any land in his route to the east, he would bo 
 ready to begin to explore it, as soon as ever the season 
 should be favourable. Independently of all these con- 
 siderations, he had little to fear ; having two good 
 ships well provided, and both the crews being healthy. 
 Where then could he better employ his time 1 If he 
 did nothing more, he was at least in hopes of being 
 enabled to point out to posterity, that these seas may 
 be navigated, and that it is practicable to pursue dis- 
 coveries even in the depth of winter. Such was the 
 ardour of our navigator for prosecuting the ends of his 
 voyage, in circumstances which would have induced 
 most men to act a more cautious part ! 
 
 During Captain Cook's stay in the sound, he had 
 observed, that the second visit to this country had not 
 mended the morals of the natives of either sex. He 
 had always looked upon the females of New Zealand 
 as more chaste than the generality of Indian women. 
 Whatever favours a few of them might have granted to 
 the people in the Endeavour, such intercourses usually 
 took place in a private manner, and did not appear to 
 be encouraged by the men. But now the captain was 
 told, that the male Indians were the chief promoters of 
 this shameful traffic, and that, for a spikenail, or any 
 other thing they valued, they would oblige the women 
 to prostitute themselves, whether it were agreeable or 
 contrary to their inclinations. At the same time no 
 regard was paid to the privacy which decency required. 
 The account of this fact must be read with concern by 
 every well wisher to the good order and happiness of 
 society, even without adverting to considerations of a 
 higher nature. 
 
 On the 7th of June, Captain Cook put to sea from 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound, with the Adventure in com- 
 pany. I shall omit the nautical part of the route from 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 167 
 
 New Zealand to Otaheite, which continued till the 15th 
 of August ; and shall only select such circumstances as 
 are more immediately suitable to the design of the pre- 
 sent narrative. It was found, on the 29th of July, that 
 the crew of the Adventure were in a sickly state. Her 
 cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were 
 rendered incapable of duty by the scurvy and flux. At 
 this time, no more than three men were on the sick list 
 on board the Resolution ; and onlv one of these was 
 attacked with the scurvy. Some others, however, 
 began to discover the symptoms of it ; and, accord- 
 ingly, recourse was had to Avort, marmalade of carrots, 
 and the rob of lemons and oranges, with the usual 
 success. 
 
 Captain Cook could not account for the prevalence 
 of the scurvy being so much greater in the Adventure 
 than in the Resolution, unless it was owing to the crew 
 of the former being more scorbutic when they arrived 
 in New Zealand than the crew of the latter, and to their 
 eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound. This arose partly from their want 
 of knowing the right sorts, and partly from the dislike 
 which seamen have to the introduction of a new diet. 
 Their aversion to any unusual change of food is so 
 great, that it can only be overcome by the steady and 
 persevering example and authority of a commander. 
 Many of Captain Cook's people, officers as well as com- 
 mon sailors, disliked the boiling of celery, scurvy-grass, 
 and other greens with pease and wheat ; and by some 
 the provision, thus prepared, was refused to be eaten. 
 But, as this had no effect on the captain's conduct, 
 their prejudice gradually subsided : they began to like 
 their diet as much as the rest of their companions ; and, 
 at length, there was hardly a man in the ship who did 
 not attribute the freedom of the crew from the scurvy, 
 to the beer and vegetables which had been made use of 
 at New Zealand. Henceforward, whenever the seamen 
 came to a place where vegetables could be obtained, 
 our commander seldom found it necessary to order 
 them to be gathered ; and, if they were scarce, happy 
 was the person who could lav hold on them first. 
 
168 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 On the 1st of August, when the ships were in the 
 latitude of 25° V, and the longitude of 134° 6' west, 
 they were nearly in the same situation with that which 
 is assigned by Captain Carteret for Pitcairn's Island, 
 discovered by him in 1767. For this island, therefore, 
 our voyagers diligently looked ; but saw nothing. 
 According to the longitude in which he had placed it, 
 Captain Cook must have passed it fifteen leagues to 
 the west. But as this was uncertain, he did not think 
 it prudent to lose any time in searching for it, as the 
 sickly state of the Adventure's people required as 
 speedy an arrival as possible at a place of refreshment. 
 A sight of it, however, would have been of use in 
 verifying or correcting, not only the longitude of Pit- 
 cairn's Island, but of the others discovered by Captain 
 Carteret in that neighbourhood. It is a diminution of 
 the value of that gentleman's voyage, that his longitude 
 was not confirmed by astronomical observations, and 
 that hence it was liable to errors, the correction of 
 which was out of his power. 
 
 As Captain Cook had now gotten to the northward 
 of Captain Carteret's tracks, he no longer entertained 
 any hopes of discoAering a continent. Islands were all 
 that he could expect to find, until he returned again 
 to the south. In this and his former voyage, he had 
 crossed the ocean in the latitude of 40° and upwards, 
 without meeting any thing which could, in the least, 
 induce him to believe that he should attain the great 
 object of his pursuit. Every circumstance concurred 
 to convince him, that, between the meridian of Ame- 
 rica and New Zealand, there is no southern continent ; 
 and that there is no continent farther to the south, un- 
 less in a very high latitude. This, however, was a 
 point too important to be left to opinions and conjec- 
 tures. It was to be determined by facts ; and the 
 ascertainment of it was appointed, by our commander, 
 for the employment of the ensuing summer. 
 
 It was the 6th of August before the ships had the 
 advantage of the trade wind. This they got at south- 
 east, being at that time in the latitude of 19° 36' south, 
 and the longitude of 131° 32' west. As Captain Cook 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 169 
 
 had obtained the south-east trade wind, he directed his 
 course to the west-north-west ; not only with a view of 
 keeping in with the strength of the wind, but also to 
 get to the north of the islands discovered in his former 
 voyage, that he might have a chance of meeting with 
 any other islands which might lie in the way. It was 
 in the track which had been pursued by M. de Bou- 
 gainville that our commander now proceeded. He 
 was sorry that he could not spare time to sail to the 
 north of this track ; but at present, on account of the 
 sickly state of the Adventure's crew, the arriving at a 
 place where refreshments could be procured was an 
 object superior to that of discovery. To four of the 
 islands which were passed by Captain Cook, he gave 
 the names of Resolution Island, Doubtful Island, Fur- 
 neaux Island, and Adventure Island. They are sup- 
 posed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bou- 
 gainville ; and these with several others, which consti- 
 tute a cluster of low and half drowned isles, that gen- 
 tleman distinguished by the appellation of the Dangerous 
 Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently 
 convinced our navigators, that they were surrounded 
 by them, and that it was highly necessary to proceed 
 with the utmost caution, especially in the night. 
 
 Early in the morning, on the 15th of August, the 
 ships came within sight of Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, 
 which had been discovered by Captain Wallis. Scon 
 after, Captain Cook acquainted Captain Furneaux, that 
 it was his intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the 
 south-east end of Otaheite, for the purpose of procuring 
 what refreshments he could from that part of the island, 
 before he went down to Matavai. At six in the even- 
 ing the island was seen bearing west ; and our people 
 continued to advance towards it till midnight, when 
 they brought to, till four o'clock in the morning ; after 
 which, they sailed in for the land with a fine breeze at 
 east. At daybreak, thev found themselves within the 
 distance of half a league from the reef; and, at the 
 same time, the breeze began to fail them, and was at 
 last succeeded by a calm. It now became necessary for 
 the boats to be hoisted out, in order to tow oft' the 
 
170 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 ships ; but all the efforts of our voyagers, to keep them 
 from being carried near the reef, were insufficient for 
 the purpose. As the calm continued, the situation of 
 the vessels became still more dangerous. Captain Cook, 
 however, entertained hopes of getting round the west- 
 ern point of the reef, and into the baj r . But, about two 
 o'clock in the afternoon, when he came before an open- 
 ing or break of the reef, through which he had flattered 
 himself that he might get with the ships, he found, on 
 sending to examine it, that there was not a sufficient 
 depth of water. Nevertheless, this opening caused 
 such an indraught of the tide of flood through it, as 
 was very near proving fatal to the Resolution ; for as 
 soon as the vessels got into the stream, they were 
 carried towards the reef with great impetuosity. The 
 moment the captain perceived this, he ordered one of 
 the warping machines, which was held in readiness, to 
 be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of 
 rope ; but it did not produce the least effect ; and our 
 navigators had now in prospect the horrors of ship- 
 wreck. Thev were not more than two cables length 
 from the breakers ; and, though it was the only pro- 
 bable method which was left of saving the ships, they 
 could find no bottom to anchor. An anchor, however, 
 they did drop ; but before it took hold, and brought 
 them up, the Resolution was in less than three fathom 
 water, and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke 
 close under her stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened 
 her crew every moment with destruction. Happily, the 
 Adventure brought up without striking. Presently, 
 the Resolution's people carried out two kedge-anchors, 
 with hawsers to each ; and these found ground a little 
 without the bower. By heaving upon them, and cut- 
 ting away the bower anchor, the ship was gotten afloat, 
 where Captain Cook and his men lay for some time in 
 the greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either 
 the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in 
 two by the rocks. At length, the tide ceased to act in 
 the same direction : upon which the captain ordered 
 all the boats to try to tow oft* the vessel. Having found 
 this to be practicable, the two kedges were hove up ; 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 171 
 
 and at that moment a light air came off from the land, 
 I)\ which the boats were so much assisted, that the 
 Resolution soon got clear of all danger. Our com- 
 mander then ordered all the boats to assist the Adven- 
 ture ; but before they reached her, she w as under sail 
 with the land breeze, and in a little time joined her 
 companion, leaving behind her three anchors, her 
 coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never 
 recovered. Thus were our voyagers once more safe at 
 sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very 
 island, at which, but a few days before, they had most 
 ardentlv wished to arrive. It was a peculiarly happy 
 circumstance, that the calm continued, after bringing 
 the ships into so dangerous a state. For if the sea 
 breeze, as is usually the case, had set in, the Resolu- 
 tion must inevitably have been lost, and probably the 
 Adventure likewise. 
 
 During the time in which the English were in this 
 critical situation, a number of the natives were either 
 on board or near the vessels in their canoes. Never- 
 theless, the}- seemed to be insensible of our people's 
 danger, showing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, 
 when the ships were striking ; and thev went away a 
 little before sunset, quite unconcerned. Though most 
 of them knew Captain Cook again, and many incpiired 
 for Mr. Banks and others who had been with the captain 
 before, it was remarkable that not one of them asked 
 for Tupia. 
 
 On the 17th, the Resolution and Adventure anchored 
 in Oaiti-piha Bay, immediately upon which they Avere 
 crowded with the inhabitants of the country, who 
 brought with them cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, ap- 
 ples, yams, and other roots, which were exchanged for 
 nails and beads. To some, who called themselves 
 chiefs, our commander made presents of shirts, axes, 
 and several articles beside, in return for which they 
 promised to bring him hogs and fowls ; a promise 
 which they did not perform, and which, as might be 
 judged from their conduct, they had never had the 
 least intention of performing. In the afternoon of the 
 same day, Captain Cook landed in company with Cap- 
 
172 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 tain Furneaux, for the purpose of viewing the water- 
 ing-place, and of sounding the disposition of the na- 
 tives. The article of water, which was now much 
 wanted on board, he found might conveniently be ob- 
 tained, and the inhabitants behaved with great civility. 
 Notwithstanding this civility, nothing was brought to 
 market, the next day, but fruit and roots, though it 
 was said that many hogs were seen about the houses in 
 the neighbourhood. The cry was, that they belonged 
 to Waheatoua, the earee de hi, or king ; who had not 
 yet appeared, nor, indeed, any other chief of note. 
 Among the Indians that came on board the Resolution, 
 and no small number of whom did not scruple to call 
 themselves earees, there was one of this sort, who had 
 been entertained in the cabin most of the day, and to 
 all of whose friends Captain Cook had made presents, 
 as well as liberally to himself. At length, however, he 
 was caught taking things which did not belong to him, 
 and handing them out of the quarter gallery. Various 
 complaints of the like nature being, at the same time, 
 made against the natives who were on deck, our com- 
 mander turned them all out of the ship. His cabin 
 guest was very rapid in his retreat; and the captain 
 was so exasperated at his behaviour, that after the 
 earee had gotten to some distance from the Resolu- 
 tion, he fired two muskets over his head, by which he 
 was so terrified, that he quitted his canoe, and took to 
 the water. Captain Cook then sent a boat to take the 
 canoe ; but when the boat approached the shore, the 
 people on land began to pelt her with stones. The 
 captain, therefore, being in some pain for her safety, 
 as she was unarmed, went himself in another boat to 
 protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, 
 to be fired along the coast, which made all the Indians 
 retire from the shore, and he was suffered to bring 
 away two canoes without the least show of opposition. 
 In a few hours peace was restored, and the canoes were 
 returned to the first person who came for them. 
 
 It was not till the evening of this day, that any one 
 inquired after Tupia, and then the inquiry was made 
 by only two or three of the natives. When they learned 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 173 
 
 the cause of his death, they were perfectly satisfied ; 
 nor did it appear to our commander that they would 
 have felt a moment's uneasiness, if Tupia's decease had 
 proceeded from any other cause than sickness. Thev 
 were as little concerned about Aotourou, the man who 
 had gone away with M. de Bougainville. But thev 
 were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and for several 
 others who had accompanied Captain Cook in his for- 
 mer voyage. 
 
 Since that voyage, very considerable changes had 
 happened in the country. Toutaha, the regent of the 
 greater peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed, in a 
 battle which was fought between the two kingdoms 
 about five months before the Resolution's arrival ; and 
 Otoo was now the reigning prince. Tubourai Ta- 
 maide, and several more of the principal friends to 
 the English, had fallen in this battle, together with a 
 large number of the common people. A peace sub- 
 sisted, at present, between the two grand divisions of 
 the island. 
 
 On the 20th, one of the natives carried off a musket 
 belonging to the guard on shore. Captain Cook, who 
 was himself a witness of the transaction, sent out some 
 of his people after him ; but this would have been to 
 very little purpose, if the thief had not been inter- 
 cepted by several of his own countrvmen, who pursued 
 him voluntarily, knocked him down, and returned the 
 musket to the English. This act of justice prevented 
 our commander from being placed in a disagreeable 
 situation. If the natives had not given their immediate 
 assistance, it would scarcely have been in his power to 
 have recovered the musket, by any gentle means what- 
 ever ; and if he had been obliged to have recourse to 
 other methods, he was sure of losing more than ten 
 times its value. 
 
 The fraud of one, who appeared as a chief, is, per- 
 haps, not unworthy of notice. This man, in a visit to 
 Captain Cook, presented him with a quantity of fruit ; 
 among which were a number of cocoanuts, that had 
 already been exhausted of their liquor by our people, 
 and afterwards thrown overboard. These the chief had 
 
174 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 picked tip, and tied so artfully in bundles, that at first 
 the deception was not perceived. When he was in- 
 formed of it, without betraying the least emotion, and 
 affecting a total ignorance of the matter, he opened 
 two or three of the nuts himself, signified that he was 
 satisfied of the fact, and then went on shore and sent 
 off a quantity of plantains and bananas. The ingenuity 
 and the impudence of fraud are not solely the produc- 
 tion of polished society. 
 
 Captain Cook, on the 23d, had an interview with 
 Waheatoua, the result of which was that our navi- 
 gators obtained this day as ranch pork as furnished a 
 meal to the crews of both the vessels. In the captain's 
 last voyage, Waheatoua, who was then little more than 
 a boy, was called Tearee ; but having succeeded to his 
 fathers authority, he had assumed his father's name. 
 
 The fruits which were procured at Oaiti-piha Bay 
 contributed greatly to the recovery of the sick people 
 belonging to the Adventure. Many of them, who had 
 been so ill as to be incapable of moving without assist- 
 ance, were, in the compass of a few days, so far re- 
 covered that they were able to walk about of them- 
 selves. \STien the Resolution entered the bay, she had 
 but one scorbutic man on board. A marine, who had 
 long been sick, and who died, the second day after her 
 arrival, of a complication of disorders, had not the 
 least mixture of the scurvy. 
 
 On the 24th, the ships put to sea, and arrived the 
 next evening in Matavai Bay. Before they could 
 come to an anchor, the decks were crowded with the 
 natives, many of whom Captain Cook knew, and by 
 most of whom he was well remembered. Among a 
 large multitude of people, who were collected together 
 upon the shore, was Otoo, the king of the island. Our 
 commander paid him a visit on the following day, at 
 Oparree, the place of his residence ; and found him to 
 be a fine, personable, well-made man, six feet high, and 
 about thirty years of age. The qualities of his mind 
 were not correspondent to his external appearance : 
 for when Captain Cook endeavoured to obtain from 
 him the promise of a visit on board, he acknowledged 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 175 
 
 that he was afraid of the guns, and, indeed, manifested 
 in all his actions that he was a prince of a timorous 
 disposition. 
 
 Upon the captain's return from Oparree, he found 
 the tents, and the astronomer's observatories, set up, on 
 the same spot from which the transit of Venus had been 
 observed in 1769. The sick, being twenty in number 
 from the Adventure, and one from the Resolution, 
 all of whom were ill of the scurvy, he ordered to be 
 landed ; and he appointed a guard of marines on shore, 
 under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. 
 
 On the 27th, Otoo was prevailed upon, with some 
 degree of reluctance, to pay our commander a visit. 
 He came attended with a numerous train, and brought 
 with him fruits, a hog, two large fish, and a quantity 
 of cloth ; for which he and all his retinue were grati- 
 fied with suitable presents. When Captain Cook con- 
 veyed his guests to land, he was met by a venerable 
 lady, «he mother of the late Toutaha, who seized him 
 by both hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, 
 Toutaha tiyo no toutee matty Toutaha ; that is, "Tou- 
 taha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead." He 
 was so much affected with her behaviour, that it would 
 have been impossible for him to have refrained from 
 mingling his tears with hers, had not Otoo, who was 
 displeased with the interview, taken him from her. It 
 was with difficulty that the captain could obtain per- 
 mission to see her again, when he gave her an axe and 
 some other articles. Captain Furneaux, at this time, 
 presented the king with two fine goats, which, if no 
 accident befell them, might be expected to multiply. 
 
 Several days had passed in a friendly intercourse 
 with the natives, and in the procuring of provisions, 
 when, in the evening of the 30th, the gentlemen on 
 board the Resolution were alarmed with the cry of 
 murder, and with a great noise on shore, near the 
 bottom of the bay, and at a distance from the English 
 encampment. Upon this, Captain Cook, who sus- 
 pected that some of his own men were concerned in 
 the affair, immediately dispatched an armed boat, to 
 know the cause of the disturbance, and to bring oil" 
 
176 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 such of his people as should be found in the place. 
 He sent, also, to the Adventure, and to the post on 
 shore, to learn who were missing : for none but those 
 who were upon duty were absent from the Resolution. 
 The boats speedily returned with three marines and a 
 seaman. Some others, likewise, were taken, belong- 
 ing to the Adventure ; and all of them being put under 
 confinement, our commander, the next morning, or- 
 dered them to be punished according to their deserts. 
 He did not find that any mischief had been done, and 
 the men would confess nothing. Some liberties which 
 they had taken with the women had probably given 
 occasion to the disturbance. To whatever cause it was 
 owing, the natives were so much alarmed, that they 
 fled from their habitations in the dead of night, and the 
 alarm was spread many miles along the coast. In the 
 morning, when Captain Cook went to visit Otoo, by 
 appointment, he found that he had removed, or rather 
 fled, to a great distance from the usual place of his 
 abode. After arriving where he was, it was some 
 hours before the captain could be admitted to the sight 
 of him ; and then he complained of the riot of the 
 preceding evening. 
 
 The sick beino- nearlv recovered, the water com- 
 pleted, and the necessary repairs of the ships finished, 
 Captain Cook determined to put to sea without delay. 
 Accordingly, on the 1st of September, he ordered 
 every thing to be removed from the shore, and the 
 vessels to be unnloored, in which employment his 
 people were engaged the greater part of the day. In 
 the afternoon of the same day, Lieutenant Pickersgill 
 returned from Attahourou, to which place he had been 
 sent by the captain, for the purpose of procuring some 
 hogs that had been promised. In this expedition, the 
 lieutenant had seen the celebrated Oberea, who has 
 been so much the object of poetical fancy. Her situa- 
 tion was very humble compared with what it had for- 
 merly been. She was not only altered much for the 
 worse in her person, but appeared to be poor, and of 
 little or no consequence or authority in the island. In 
 the e\ening, a favourable wind having sprung up, our 
 
SECOND VOYAGE, 177 
 
 commander put to sea ; on which occasion he was 
 obliged to dismiss his Otaheite friends sooner than 
 they wished to depart ; but well satisfied with his kind 
 and liberal treatment. 
 
 From Matavai Bay, Captain Cook directed his course 
 for the island of Huaheine, where he intended to touch. 
 This island he reached the next day, and, early in the 
 morning of the 3d of September, made sail for the 
 harbour of Owharre, in which he soon came to an 
 anchor. The Adventure, not happening to turn into 
 the harbour with equal facility, got ashore on the north 
 side of the channel ; but, by the timely assistance which 
 Captain Cook had previously provided, in case such an 
 accident should occur, she was gotten off again, with- 
 out receiving any damage. As soon as both the ships 
 were in safety, our commander, together with Captain 
 Furneaux, lauded upon the island, and was received 
 by the natives with the utmost cordiality. A trade 
 immediately commenced ; so that our navigators had a 
 fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh 
 pork and fowls, which, to people in their situation, 
 was a very desirable circumstance. On the 4th, Lieu- 
 tenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading 
 party, toward the south end of the isle. Another 
 trading party was also sent on shore near the ships, 
 which party Captain Cook attended himself, to see that 
 the business was properly conducted at the first setting 
 out, this being a point of no small importance. Every 
 thing being settled to his mind, he went, accompanied 
 by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, to pay a visit 
 to his old friend Oree, the chief of the island. This 
 visit was preceded by manv preparatory ceremonies. 
 Among other things the chief sent to onr commander 
 the inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, 
 which he had left with him in July, 1769. It was in 
 the bag that Captain Cook had made for it, together 
 with a piece of counterfeit English coin, and a few 
 beads, which had been put in at the same time ; whence 
 it was evident what particular care had been taken of 
 the whole. After the previous ceremonies had been 
 discharged, the captain wanted to go to the king, but 
 
 VOL. I. N 
 
178 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 he was informed that the king would come to him. 
 Accordingly, Oree went up to our commander, and 
 fell on his neck, and embraced him ; nor was it a cere- 
 monious embrace, for the tears which trickled down 
 the venerable old man's cheeks sufficiently bespoke the 
 language of his heart. The presents, which Captain 
 Cook made to the chief on this occasion, consisted of 
 the most valuable articles he had ; for he regarded 
 him as a father. Oree, in return, gave the captain a 
 hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all the 
 wants of the English should be supplied ; and it was a 
 promise to which he faithfully adhered. Indeed, he 
 carried his kindness to Captain Cook so far, as not to 
 fail sending him every day, for his table, a plentiful 
 supply of the very best of ready-dressed fruit and 
 roots. 
 
 Hitherto, all things had gone on in the most agree- 
 able manner ; but on Monday, the 6th, several circum- 
 stances occurred, which rendered it an unpleasant and 
 troublesome day. When our commander went to the 
 trading-place, he was informed that one of the inhabi- 
 tants had behaved with remarkable insolence. The 
 man was completely equipped in the war habit, had a 
 club in each hand, and seemed bent upon mischief. 
 Captain Cook took, therefore, the clubs from him, 
 broke them before his eyes, and with some difficulty 
 compelled him to retire. About the same time, Mr. 
 Sparrman, who had imprudently gone out alone to 
 botanize, was assaulted by two men, who stripped him 
 of bvbtj thing which he had about him, excepting his 
 trowsers, and struck him again and again with his 
 own hanger, though happily without doing him any 
 harm. When they had accomplished their purpose, 
 they made off; after which another of the natives 
 brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted 
 him to the trading-place, where the inhabitants, in a 
 large number, were assembled. The instant that Mr. 
 Sparrman appeared in the condition now described, 
 they all fled with the utmost precipitation. Captain 
 Cook, having recalled a few of the Indians, and con- 
 vinced them that he should take no step to injure those 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 179 
 
 who were innocent, went to Oree to complain of the 
 outrage. When the chief had heard the whole affair 
 related, he wept aloud, and many other of the inhabi- 
 tants did the same. After the first transports of his 
 grief had subsided, he began to expostulate with his 
 people, telling them (for so his language was under- 
 stood by the English) how well Captain Cook had 
 treated them both in this and his former voyage, and 
 how base it was in them to commit such actions. He 
 then took a minute account of the things of which 
 Mr. Sparrman had been robbed, and, after having pro- 
 mised to use his utmost endeavours for the recovery 
 of them, desired to go into the captain's boat. At this, 
 the natives, apprehensive doubtless for the safety of 
 their prince, expressed the utmost alarm, and used 
 every argument to dissuade him from so rash a mea- 
 sure. All their remonstrances, however, were in vain. 
 He hastened into the boat ; and as soon as they saw 
 that their beloved chief was wholly in our comman- 
 der's power, they set up a great outcry. Indeed, their 
 grief was inexpressible ; they prayed, entreated, nay, 
 attempted to pull him out of the boat ; and every face 
 was bedewed with tears. Even Captain Cook himself 
 was so moved by their distress, that he united his 
 entreaties with theirs, but all to no purpose. Oree in- 
 sisted upon the captain's coming into the boat, which 
 was no sooner done, than he ordered it to be put off*. 
 His sister was the only person among the Indians who 
 behaved with a becoming magnanimity on this occa- 
 sion ; for, with a spirit equal to that of her royal bro- 
 ther, she alone did not oppose his going. It was his 
 design, in coming into the boat of the English, to 
 proceed with them in search of the robbers. Accord- 
 ingly, he went with Captain Cook, as far as it was 
 convenient, by water, when they landed, entei-ed the 
 country, and travelled some miles inland ; in doing 
 which the chief led the way, and inquired after the 
 criminals of every person whom he saw. In this search 
 he would have gone to the very extremity of the 
 island, if our commander, who did not think the object 
 worthy of so laborious a pursuit, had not refused to 
 
180 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 proceed any farther. Besides, as he intended to sail 
 the next morning, and all manner of trade was stopped 
 in consequence of the alarm of the natives, it became 
 the more necessary for him to return, that he might 
 restore things to their former state. It was with great 
 reluctance that Oree w r as prevailed upon to discon- 
 tinue the search, and to content himself with sending, 
 at Captain Cook's request, some of his people for the 
 things which had been carried off. When he and the 
 captain had gotten back to the boat, they found there 
 the chief's sister, and several other persons, who had 
 travelled by land to the place. The English gentle- 
 men immediately stepped into their boat, in order to 
 return on board, without so much as asking Oree to 
 accompany them ; notwithstanding which, he insisted 
 upon doing it ; nor could the opposition and entreaties 
 of those who were about him induce him to desist 
 from his purpose. His sister followed his example, 
 uninfluenced, on this occasion, bv the supplications and 
 tears of her daughter. Captain Cook amply rewarded 
 the chief and his sister for the confidence they had 
 placed in him ; and, after dinner, conveyed them both 
 on shore, where some hundreds of people waited to 
 receive them, many of whom embraced Oree with 
 tears of joy. All was now peace and gladness : the 
 inhabitants crowded in from every part, with such a 
 plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, and vegetable produc- 
 tions, that the English presently filled two boats ; and 
 the chief himself presented the captain with a large 
 hog, and a quantity of fruit. Mr. Sparrmans hanger, 
 the only thing of value which he had lost, was brought 
 back, together with part of his coat; and our navi- 
 gators were told, that the remainiug articles should be 
 restored the next day. Some things which had been 
 stolen from a partv of officers, who had gone out a 
 shooting, were returned in like manner. 
 
 The transactions of this day have been the more par- 
 ticularly related, as they show the high opinion which 
 the chief had formed of our commander, and the unre- 
 served confidence that he placed in his integrity and 
 honour. Oree had entered into a solemn friendship 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 181 
 
 with Captain Cook, according to all the forms which 
 ■were customary in the country ; and he seemed to 
 think, that this friendship could not be broken by the 
 act of any other persons. It is justly observed by the 
 captain, that another chief may never be found, who, 
 under similar circumstances, will act in the same man- 
 ner. Oree, indeed, had nothing to fear : for it was not 
 our commander's intention to hurt a hair of his head, 
 or to detain him a moment longer than was agreeable 
 to his own desire. But of this how could he and his 
 people be assured ? They were not ignorant, that when 
 he was once in Captain Cook's power, the whole force 
 of the island would not be sufficient to recover him, 
 and that thev must have complied with any demands, 
 however great, for his ransom. The apprehensions, 
 therefore, of the inhabitants, for their chiefs and their 
 own safety, had a reasonable foundation. 
 
 Early on the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, 
 the captain went to pay his farewell visit to Oree, and 
 took with him such presents as had not only a fancied 
 value, but a real utility. He left, also, with the chief 
 the inscription plate, that had before been in his pos- 
 session, and another small copper plate, on which were 
 engraved these words : " Anchored here, his Britannic 
 Majesty's ships, Resolution and Adventure, Septem- 
 ber, 1773." These plates, together with some medals, 
 were put up in a bag ; of which Oree promised to take 
 care, and to produce them to the first ship or ships 
 that should arrive at the island. Having, in return, 
 given a hog to Captain Cook, and loaded his boat with 
 fruit, they took leave of each other, when the good 
 old chief embraced our commander with tears in his 
 eyes. Nothing was mentioned, at this interview, con- 
 cerning the remainder of Mr. Sparrman's property. As 
 it was early in the morning, the captain judged that it 
 had not been brought in, and he was not willing to 
 speak of it to Oree, lest he should give him pain about 
 things which there had not been time to recover. The 
 robbers having soon afterwards been taken, Oree came 
 on board again, to request that our commander would 
 go on shore, either to punish them, or to be present 
 
182 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 at their punishment ; but this not being convenient to 
 Lira, he left them to the correction of their own chief. 
 It was from the island of Huaheine that Captain Fur- 
 neaux received into his ship a young man named Omai, 
 a native of Ulietea, of whom so much hath since been 
 known and written. This choice Captain Cook at first 
 disapproved, as thinking that the youth was not a pro- 
 per sample of the inhabitants of the Society islands ; 
 being inferior to many of them in birth and acquired 
 rank, and not having any peculiar advantage in point 
 of shape, figure, or complexion. The captain after- 
 wards found reason to be better satisfied with Omai's 
 having accompanied our navigators to England. 
 
 Dnring the short stay of the vessels at Huaheine, 
 our people were very successful in obtaining supplies 
 of provisions. No less than three hundred hogs, be- 
 sides fowls and fruit, were procured ; and had the ships 
 continued longer at the place, the quantity might have 
 been greatly increased. Such was the fertility of this 
 small island, that none of these articles of refreshment 
 Avere seemingly diminished, but appeared to be as 
 plentiful as ever. 
 
 From Huaheine our navigators sailed for Ulietea ; 
 where trade was carried on in the usnal manner, and 
 a most friendlv intercourse renewed between Captain 
 Cook and Oreo, the chief of the island. Here Tupia 
 was inquired after with particular eagerness, and the 
 inquirers were perfectly satisfied with the account 
 which was ffiven of the occasion of that Indian's de- 
 cease. 
 
 On the morning of the loth, the English were sur- 
 prised at finding that none of the inhabitants of Ulietea 
 came off" to the ships, as had hitherto been customary. 
 As two men belonging to the Adventure had stayed on 
 shore all night, contrary to orders, Captain Cook's 
 first conjectures were, that the natives had stripped 
 them, and were afraid of the revenge which would be 
 taken of the insult. This, however, was not the case. 
 The men had been treated with great civility, and 
 could assign no cause for the precipitate flight of the 
 Indians. All that the captain could learn was, that 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 183 
 
 several were killed, and others wounded, by the grins 
 of the English. This information alarmed him for the 
 safety of some of our people, who had been sent out in 
 two boats to the island of Otaha. He determined, 
 therefore, if possible, to see the chief himself. When 
 he came up to him, Oreo threw his arms around our 
 commander's neck, and burst into tears ; in which he 
 was accompanied bv all the women, and some of the 
 men ; so that the lamentation became general. Asto- 
 nishment alone kept Captain Cook from joining in their 
 grief. At last, the whole which he could collect from 
 his inquiries was, that the natives had been alarmed 
 ou account of the absence of the English boats, and 
 imagined that the captain, upon the supposition of the 
 desertion of his men, would use violent means for the 
 recovery of his loss. When the matter was explained, 
 it was acknowledged that not a single inhabitant, or a 
 single Englishman, had been hurt. This groundless 
 consternation displaved in a strong light the timorous 
 disposition of the people of the Society islands. 
 
 Oar navigators were as successful in procuring pro- 
 visions at I lietea as they had been at Huaheine. Cap- 
 tain Cook judged that the number of hogs obtained 
 amounted to four hundred or upwards : many of them, 
 indeed, were only roasters, while others exceeded a 
 hundred pounds in weight; but the general run was 
 from fortv to sixty. A larger quantitv was offered 
 than the ships could contain ; so that our countrymen 
 were enabled to proceed on their voyage with no small 
 decree of comfort and advantage. 
 
 Our commander, bv his second visit to the Society 
 islands, gained a farther knowledge of their general 
 state, and of the customs of the inhabitants. It ap- 
 peared, that a Spanish ship had been lately at Otaheite, 
 and the natives complained, that a disease had been 
 communicated to them bv the people of this vessel, 
 which, according to their account, affected the head, 
 the throat, and the stomach, and at length ended in 
 death. With regard to a certain disorder, the effects 
 of which have so fatally been felt in the later ages of 
 
184 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 the world, Captain Cook's inquiries could not abso- 
 lutely determine whether it was known to the islanders 
 before they were visited by the Europeans. If it was 
 of recent origin, the introduction of it was, without 
 a dissentient voice, ascribed to the voyage of M. de 
 Bougainville. 
 
 One thing which our commander was solicitous to 
 ascertain, was, whether human sacrifices constituted a 
 part of the religious customs of these people. The 
 man of whom he made his inquiries, and several other 
 natives, took some pains to explain the matter ; but, 
 from our people's ignorance of the language of the 
 country, their explication could not be understood. 
 Captain Cook afterwards learned from Omai that the 
 inhabitants of the Society islands offer human sacri- 
 fices to the Supreme Being. What relates to funeral 
 ceremonies excepted, all the knowledge he could ob- 
 tain concerning their religion was very imperfect and 
 defective. 
 
 The captain had an opportunity, in this voyage, of 
 rectifying the great injustice which had been done 
 to the women of Otaheite and the neighbouring isles. 
 They had been represented as ready, without excep- 
 tion, to grant the last favour to anv man who would 
 come up to their price : but our commander found that 
 this was bj r no means the case. The favours both of 
 the married women and of the unmarried, of the better 
 sort, were as difficult to be obtained in the Society 
 islands as in anv other country whatever. Even with 
 respect to the unmarried females of the lower class, 
 the charge was not indiscriminately true. There were 
 many of these who would not admit of indecent fami- 
 liarities. The setting this subject in a proper light 
 must be considered as one of the agreeable effects of 
 Captain Cook's second voyage. Every enlightened 
 mind will rejoice at what conduces to the honour of 
 human nature in general, and of the female sex in par- 
 ticular. Chastity is so eminently the glory of that sex, 
 and, indeed, is so essentially connected with the good 
 order of society, that it must be a satisfaction to reflect, 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 185 
 
 that there is no country, however ignorant or barbar- 
 ous, in which this virtue is not regarded as an object 
 of moral obligation. 
 
 This voyage enabled our commander to gain some 
 farther knowledge concerning the geography of the 
 Society isles ; and he found it highly probable, that 
 Otaheite is of greater extent than he had computed it 
 in his former estimation. The astronomers did not 
 neglect to set up their observatories, and to make 
 observations suited to their purpose. 
 
 On the 17th of September, Captain Cook sailed from 
 Ulietea, directing his course to the west, with an in- 
 clination to the south. Land was discovered on the 
 23d of the month, to which he gave the name of Har- 
 vey's Island. On the 1st of October, he reached the 
 island of Middleburg. While he was looking about for 
 a landing place, two canoes, each of them conducted by 
 two or three men, came boldly alongside the ship, and 
 some of the people entered it without hesitation. This 
 mark of confidence inspired our commander with so 
 good an opinion of the inhabitants, that he determined, 
 if possible, to pay them a visit, which he did the next 
 day. Scarcely had the vessels gotten to an anchor, 
 before they were surrounded by a great number of 
 canoes, full of the natives, who brought with them 
 cloth, and various curiosities, which they exchanged 
 for nails, and such other articles as were adapted to 
 their fancy. Among those who came on board, was a 
 chief, named Tioony, whose friendship Captain Cook 
 immediately gained by proper presents, consisting prin- 
 cipally of a hatchet and some spikenails. A party of 
 our navigators, with the captain at the head of them, 
 having embarked in two boats, proceeded to shore, 
 where they found an immense crowd of people, who 
 welcomed them to the island with loud acclamations. 
 There was not so much as a stick, or any other weapon, 
 in the hands of a single native, so pacific were their 
 dispositions and intentions. They seemed to be more 
 desirous of giving than receiving ; and many of them, 
 who could not approach near to the boats, threw into 
 them, over the heads of others, whole bales of cloth, 
 
186 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 and then retired, without either asking or waiting for 
 any thing in return. The whole day was spent by our 
 navigators in the most agreeable manner. When they 
 returned on board in the evening, everyone expressed 
 how much he was delighted with the country, and the 
 very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed 
 to vie with each other in their endeavours to give 
 pleasure to our people. All this conduct appeared to 
 be the result of the most pure good nature, perhaps 
 without being accompanied with much sentiment or 
 feeling ; for when Captain Cook signified to the chief 
 his intention of quitting the island, he did not seem to 
 be in the least moved. Among other articles presented 
 by the captain to Tioony, he left him an assortment of 
 garden seeds, which, if properly used, might be of 
 great future benefit to the country. 
 
 From Middleburg, the ships sailed down to Amster- 
 dam, the natives of which island were equally ready 
 with those of the former place to maintain a friendly 
 intercourse with the English. Like the people of 
 Middleburg, they brought nothing with them but cloth, 
 matting, and such other articles as could be of little 
 service ; and for these our seamen were so simple as to 
 barter away their clothes. To put a stop, therefore, 
 to so injurious a traffic, and to obtain the necessary 
 refreshments, the captain gave orders, that no sort of 
 curiosities should be purchased by any person what- 
 ever. This injunction produced the desired effect. 
 When the inhabitants saw that the English would deal 
 with them for nothing but eatables, they brought off 
 bananas and cocoanuts in abundance, together with 
 some fowls and pigs ; all of which they exchanged for 
 small nails and pieces of cloth. Even a few old rags 
 were sufficient for the purchase of a pig or a fowl. 
 
 The method of carrving on trade being settled, and 
 proper officers having been appointed to prevent dis- 
 putes, our commander's next object was to obtain as 
 complete a knowledge as possible of the island of Am- 
 sterdam. In this he was much facilitated by a friend- 
 ship which he had formed with Attago, one of the 
 chiefs of the country. Captain Cook was struck with 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 187 
 
 admiration, when he surveyed the beauty and cultiva- 
 tion of the island. He thought himself transported 
 into the most fertile plains of Europe. There was not 
 an inch of waste ground. The roads occupied no larger 
 a space than was absolutely necessary, and the fences 
 did not take up above four inches each. Even such a 
 small portion of ground was not wholly lost; for many 
 of the fences themselves contained useful trees or plants. 
 The scene was every where the same ; and nature, as- 
 sisted by a little art, no where assumes a more splendid 
 appearance than in this island. 
 
 Friendly as were the natives of Amsterdam, they 
 were not entirely free from the thievish disposition 
 which hath so often been remarked in the islanders of 
 the Southern Ocean. The instances, however, of this 
 kind, which occurred, were not of such a nature as to 
 produce any extraordinary degree of trouble, or to 
 involve our people in a quarrel with the inhabitants. 
 
 Captain Cooks introduction to the king of the 
 island afforded a scene somewhat remarkable. His 
 majesty was seated with so much sullen and stupid 
 gravity, that the captain took him for an idiot, whom 
 the Indians, from some superstitious reasons, were 
 ready to worship. When our commander saluted and 
 spoke to him, he neither answered, nor took the least 
 notice of him ; nor did he alter a single feature of his 
 countenance. Even the presents which were made to 
 him could not induce him to resign a bit of his gravity, 
 or to speak one word, or to turn his head either to the 
 right hand or to the left. As he was in the prime of 
 life, it was possible that a false sense of dignity might 
 engage him to assume so solemn a stupidity of appear- 
 ance. In the history of mankind, instances might pro- 
 bably be found which would confirm this supposition. 
 
 It is observable, that the two islands of Middleburg 
 and Amsterdam are guarded from the sea by a reef of 
 coral rocks, which extend out from the shore about 
 one hundred fathoms. On this reef the force of the sea 
 is spent before it reaches the land. The same, indeed, 
 is, in a great measure, the situation of all the tropical 
 isles which our commander had seen in that part of the 
 
188 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 globe ; and hence arises an evidence of the wisdom 
 and goodness of Providence ; as by such a provision, 
 nature has effectually secured them from the encroach- 
 ments of the sea, though many of them are mere points, 
 when compared with the vast ocean by which they are 
 surrounded. 
 
 In Amsterdam, Mr. Forster not only found the same 
 plants that are at Otaheite and the neighbouring islands, 
 but several others, which are not to be met with in 
 those places. Captain Cook took care, by a proper 
 assortment of garden-seeds and pulse, to increase the 
 vegetable stock of the inhabitants. 
 
 Hogs and fowls were the onlv domestic animals that 
 were seen in these islands. The former are of the 
 same sort with those which had been met with in other 
 parts of the Southern Ocean ; but the latter are far 
 superior, being as large as any in Eui-ope, and equal, 
 if not preferable, with respect to the goodness of their 
 flesh. 
 
 Both men and women are of a common size with 
 Europeans. Their colour is that of a lightish copper, 
 and with a greater uniformity than occurs among the 
 natives of Otaheite and the Society isles. Some of the 
 English gentlemen were of opinion, that the inhabitants 
 of Middleburg and Amsterdam were a much handsomer 
 race ; while others, with whom Captain Cook con- 
 curred, maintained a contrary sentiment. However 
 this may be, their shape is good, their features regular, 
 and they are active, brisk, and lively. The women, in 
 particular, are the merriest creatures our commander 
 had ever met with : and, provided any person seemed 
 pleased with them, they would keep chattering by his 
 side without the least invitation, or considering whe- 
 ther they were understood. They appeared in general 
 to be modest, though there were several amongst them 
 of a different character. As there were yet on board 
 some complaints of a certain disorder, the captain took 
 all possible care to prevent its communication. Our 
 navigators were frequently entertained by the women 
 with songs, and this in a manner which was by no 
 means disagreeable. They had a method of keeping 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 189 
 
 time, by snapping their fingers. Their music was har- 
 monious as well as their voices, and there was a con- 
 siderable degree of compass in their notes. 
 
 A singular custom was found to prevail in these 
 islands. The greater part of the people were observed 
 to have lost one or both of their little fingers ; and 
 this was not peculiar to rank, age, or sex ; nor was 
 the amputation restricted to any specific period of life. 
 Our navigators endeavoured in vain to discover the 
 reason of so extraordinary a practice. 
 
 A very extensive knowledge of the language of 
 Middleburg and Amsterdam could not be obtained 
 during the short stay which was made there by the 
 English. However, "the more they inquired into it, 
 the more they found that it was, in general, the same 
 with that which is spoken at Otaheite and the Society 
 isles. The difference is not greater than what fre- 
 quently occurs betwixt the most northern and western 
 parts of England. 
 
 On the 7th of October, Captain Cook proceeded on 
 his voyage. His intention was to sail directly to 
 Queen" Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, for the 
 purpose of taking in wood and water, after which he 
 was to pursue his discoveries to the south and the 
 east. The day after he quitted Amsterdam, he passed 
 the island of Pilstart ; an island which had been dis- 
 covered by Tasman. 
 
 On the 21st, he made the land of New Zealand, at 
 the distance of eight or ten leagues from Table Cape. 
 As our commander was very desirous of leaving in 
 the countrv such an assortment of animals and vege- 
 tables as might greatly contribute to the future benefit 
 of the inhabitants, one of the first things which he did 
 was to give to a chief, who had come off in a canoe, two 
 boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks, together 
 with a quantity of seeds. The seeds were of the most 
 useful kind ; such as wheat, french and kidney beans, 
 pease, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsneps, and 
 yams. The man to whom these several articles were 
 presented, though he was much more enraptured with 
 a spike-nail half the length of his arm, promised, how- 
 
190 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 ever, to take care of them, and, in particular, not to 
 kill any of the animals. If he adhered to his promise, 
 they would be sufficient, in a due course of time, to 
 stock the whole island. 
 
 It was the 3d of November before Captain Cook 
 brought the Resolution into Ship Cove, in Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound. He had been beating about the 
 island from the 21st of October, during which time 
 his vessel was exposed to a variety of tempestuous 
 weather. In one instance he had been driven off the 
 land by a furious storm, which lasted two days, and 
 which would have been dangerous in the highest de- 
 gree, had it not fortunately happened that it was fair 
 overhead, and that there was no reason to be appre- 
 hensive of a lee-shore. In the course of the bad wea- 
 ther which succeeded this storm, the Adventure was 
 separated from the Resolution, and was never seen or 
 heard of through the whole remainder of the voyage. 
 
 The first object of our commander's attention, after 
 his arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, was to provide 
 for the repair of his ship, which had suffered in various 
 respects, and especially in her sails and rigging. Ano- 
 ther matter which called for his notice was the state of 
 the bread belonging to the vessel ; and he had the 
 mortification of finding, that a large quantity of it was 
 damaged. To repair this loss in the best manner he 
 was able, he ordered all the casks to be opened, the 
 bread to be picked, and such parcels of it to be baked, 
 in the copper oven, as could by that means be re- 
 covered. Notwithstanding this care, four thousand 
 two hundred and ninety-two pounds were found totally 
 unfit for use ; and about three thousand pounds more 
 could only be eaten by people in the situation of our 
 navigators. 
 
 Captain Cook was early in his inquiries concerning 
 the animals which had been left at New Zealand, in the 
 former part of his voyage. He saw the youngest of the 
 two sows that Captain Furneaux had put on shore in 
 Cannibal Cove. She was in good condition, and very 
 tame. The boar and other sow, if our commander was 
 rightly informed, were taken away and separated, but 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 191 
 
 not killed. He was told that the two goats, which he 
 had landed up the Sound, had been destroyed by a 
 rascally native of the name of Goubiah ; so that the 
 captain had the grief of discovering that all his bene- 
 volent endeavours to stock the country with useful 
 animals were likely to be frustrated by the very people 
 whom he was anxious to serve. The gardens had met 
 with a better fate. Every thing in them, excepting 
 potatoes, the inhabitants had left entirely to nature, 
 who had so well performed her part, that most of the 
 articles were in a flourishing condition. 
 
 Notwithstanding the inattention and folly of the 
 New Zealanders, Captain Cook still continued his zeal 
 for their benefit. To the inhabitants who resided at the 
 Cove, he gave a boar, a young sow, two cocks, aud two 
 hens, which had been brought from the Society islands. 
 At the bottom of the West Bay, he ordered to be landed, 
 without the knowledge of the Indians, four hogs, being 
 three sows and one boar, together with two cocks and 
 two hens. They were carried a little way into the 
 w oods, and as much food was left them as would serve 
 them for ten or twelve days ; which was done to pre- 
 vent their coming down to the shore in search of sus- 
 tenance, and by that means being discovered by the 
 natives. The captain was desirous of replacing the two 
 goats which Goubiah was understood to have killed, by 
 leaving behind him the only two that yet remained in 
 his possession. BuLhe had the misfortune, soon after 
 his arrival at QueenTlharlotte's Sound, to lose the ram ; 
 and this in a manner for which it was not easy to assign 
 the cause. Whether it was owin^ to anv thina: he had 
 eaten, or to his being stung with nettles, which were 
 very plentiful in the place, he was seized with fits that 
 bordered upon madness. In one of these fits, he was 
 supposed to have run into the sea, and to have been 
 drowned : and thus every method which our commander 
 had taken to stock the country with sheep and goats, 
 proved ineffectual. He hoped to be more successful 
 with respect to the boars and sows, and the cocks and 
 hens, which he left in the island. 
 
 While the boatswain, one day, and a party of men 
 
192 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 were employed in cutting broom, some of them stole 
 several things from a private hut of the natives; in which 
 was deposited most of the treasures they had received 
 from the English, as well as property of their own. 
 Complaint being made by the Indians to Captain Cook, 
 and a particular man of the boatswain's party having 
 been pointed out to the captain, as the person who had 
 committed the theft, he ordered him to be punished in 
 their presence. With this they went away seemingly 
 satisfied, although they did not recover any of the 
 articles which they had lost. It was always a maxim 
 with our commander, to punish the least crimes which 
 any of his people were guilty of with regard to uncivi- 
 lized nations. Their robbing us with impunity he by 
 no means considered as a reason for our treating them 
 in the same manner. Addicted as the New Zealanders 
 Avere, in a certain degree, to stealing, a disposition 
 which must have been very much increased by the no- 
 velty and allurement of the objects presented to their 
 view ; they had, nevertheless, when injured themselves, 
 such a sense of justice as to apply to Captain Cook for 
 redress. The best method, in his opinion, of preserving 
 a good understanding with the inhabitants of countries 
 in this state of society, is, first, to convince them of the 
 superiority we have over them in consequence of our 
 firearms, and then to be always upon our guard. Such 
 a conduct, united with strict honesty and gentle treat- 
 ment, will convince them, that it is their interest not 
 to disturb us, and prevent them from forming any 
 general plan of attack. 
 
 In this second visit of our navigators to New Zealand, 
 they met with indubitable evidence that the natives 
 were eaters of human flesh. The proofs of this fact had 
 a most powerful influence on the mind of Oedidee, a 
 youth of Bolabola, whom Captain Cook had brought in 
 the Resolution from Ulietea. He was so affected, that 
 he became perfectly motionless, and exhibited such a 
 picture of horror, that it would have been impossible 
 for art to describe that passion with half the force with 
 which it appeared in bis countenance. When he was 
 roused from this state by some of the English, he burst 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 193 
 
 into tears ; continued to weep and scold by turns ; told 
 the New Zealanders that they were vile men ; and 
 assured them, that he would not he any longer their 
 friend. He would not so much as permit them to 
 come near him ; and he refused to accept or even to 
 touch, the knife by which some human flesh had been 
 cut off. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the 
 abominable custom ; and our commander has justly 
 remarked, that it was an indignation worthy to be 
 imitated by every rational being. The conduct of this 
 young man, upon the present occasion, strongly points 
 out the difference which had taken place, in the pro- 
 gress of civilization, between the inhabitants of the 
 Society islands and those of New Zealand. It was our 
 commander's firm opinion, that the only human flesh 
 which was eaten by these people was that of their 
 enemies, who had been slain iu battle. 
 
 During the stay of our voyagers in Queen Char- 
 lotte's Sound, they were plentifully supplied with fish, 
 procured from the natives at a very easy rate; and, 
 besides the vegetables afforded by their own gardens, 
 they every where found plenty of scurvygrass and 
 celery. These Captain Cook ordered to be dressed 
 every day for all his hands. By the attention which 
 he paid to his men in the article of provisions, they 
 had for three months lived principally on a fresh diet, 
 and, at this time, there was not a sick or scorbutic 
 person on board. 
 
 The morning before the captain sailed, he wrote a 
 memorandum, containingsuch information as he thought 
 necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he should put 
 into the sound. This memorandum was buried in a 
 bottle under the root of a tree in the garden ; and in 
 such a manner, that it could not avoid being discovered, 
 if either Captain Furneaux, or any other European, 
 should chance to arrive at the cove. 
 
 Our commander did not leave New Zealand without 
 making such remarks on the coast between Cape Tee- 
 rawhitte and Cape Palliser as may be of service to 
 future navigators. It being uow the unanimous opi- 
 nion that the Adventure was no wheie upon the island, 
 
 vol. i. o 
 
194 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 Captain Cook gave up all expectations of seeing her 
 any more during the voyage. This circumstance, how- 
 ever, did not discourage him from fully exploring the 
 southern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of 
 which he intended to employ the whole of the ensuing 
 season. When he quitted the coast, he had the satis- 
 faction to find that not a man of the crew was de- 
 jected, or thought that the dangers, they had yet to go 
 through, were in the least augmented by their being 
 alone. Such was the confidence they placed in their 
 commander, that they were as ready to proceed cheer- 
 fully to the south, or wherever he might lead them, as 
 if the Adventure, or e^ en a larger number of ships had 
 been in company. 
 
 On the 26th of November, Captain Cook sailed from 
 New Zealand in search of a continent, and steered to 
 the south, inclining to the east. Some days after this, 
 our navigators reckoned themselves to be antipodes to 
 their friends in London, and consequently were at as 
 great a distance from them as possible. The first ice 
 island was seen on the 12th of December, farther south 
 than the first ice which had been met with after leav- 
 ing the Cape of Good Hope, in the preceding year. 
 In the progress of the voyage, ice islands continually 
 occurred, and the navigation became more and more 
 difficult and dangerous. When our people were in 
 the latitude of 67° 5' south, they all at once got within 
 such a cluster of these islands, together with a large 
 quantity of loose pieces, that to keep clear of them 
 was a matter of the utmost difficulty. On the 22d of 
 the month, the Resolution was in the highest latitude 
 she had yet reached ; and circumstances now became 
 so unfavourable, that our commander thought of re- 
 turning more to the north. Here there was no pro- 
 bability of finding any land, or a possibility of getting 
 farther south. To have proceeded, therefore, to the 
 east in this latitude, must have been improper, not 
 only on account of the ice, but because a vast space of 
 sea to the north must have been left unexplored, in 
 which there might lie a large tract of country. It 
 A\as only by visiting those parts, that it could be de- 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 105 
 
 termined whether such a supposition was well founded. 
 As our navigators advanced to the north-east on the 
 24th, the ice islands increased so fast upon them, that, 
 at noon, they could see nearly a hundred around them, 
 besides an immense number of small pieces. In this 
 situation they spent Christmas day, much in the same 
 manner as they had done in the former year. Happily 
 our people had continual daylight, and clear weather ; 
 for had it been as foggy as it was on some preceding 
 days, nothing less than a miracle could have saved 
 them from being dashed to pieces. 
 
 While the Resolution was in the high latitudes, 
 many of her company were attacked with a slight 
 fever, occasioned by colds. The disorder, however, 
 yielded to the simplest remedies, and was generally 
 removed in a few days. On the 5th of January, 1774, 
 the ship not being then in much more than fifty de- 
 grees of latitude, there were only one or two persons 
 on the sick list. 
 
 After Captain Cook, agreeably to his late resolution, 
 had traversed a large extent of ocean, without disco- 
 vering land, he again directed his course to the south- 
 ward. By the 30th of the month, through obstructions, 
 and difficulties, which, from their similar nature to* 
 those already mentioned, it would be tedious to repeat, 
 he reached to the seventy-first degree of latitude. Thus 
 far had he gone ; but to have proceeded farther would 
 ha\e been the height of folly and madness. It would 
 have been exposing himself, his men, and his ship, to 
 the utmost danger, and perhaps to destruction, without 
 the least prospect of advantage. The captain was of 
 opinion, as indeed were most of the gentlemen on 
 board, that the ice now in sight extended quite to the 
 pole, or might join to some land, to which it might be 
 fixed from the earliest time. If, however, there be 
 such land, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or 
 any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it 
 must be wholly covered. Though our commander had 
 not only the ambition of going farther than any one 
 had done before, but of proceeding as far as it was 
 possible for man to go, he was the less dissatisfied with 
 
196 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 the interruption he now met Avith, as it shortened the 
 dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation 
 of the southern polar regions. In fact he was impelled 
 by inevitable necessity to tack and stand back to the 
 north. 
 
 The determination which Captain Cook now formed 
 was to spend the ensuing winter within the tropic, if 
 he met with no employment before he came there. He 
 was well satisfied, that no continent was to be found 
 in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south, as 
 to be wholly inaccessible on account of ice. If there 
 existed a continent in the Southern Atlantic Ocean, he 
 was sensible that he could not explore it, without 
 having the whole summer before him. Upon a sup- 
 position, on the other hand, that there is no land there, 
 he might undoubtedly have reached the Cape of Good 
 Hope by April. In that case, he would have put an 
 end to the finding of a continent ; which was indeed 
 the first object of the vo} r age. But this could not 
 satisfy the extensive and magnanimous mind of our 
 commander. He bad a good ship, expressly sent out 
 on discoveries, a healthy crew, and was not in want 
 either of stores or of provisions. In such circum- 
 stances, to have quitted this Southern Pacific Ocean, 
 would, he thought, have been betraying not only a 
 want of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing 
 it to have been so well explored, that nothing farther 
 could be done. Although he had proved, that there 
 was no continent but what must lie far to the south, 
 there remained, nevertheless, room for very large 
 islands in places wholly unexamined. Many, like- 
 wise, of those which had formerly been discovered had 
 been but imperfectly explored, and their situations 
 were as imperfectly known. He was also persuaded, 
 that his continuing some time longer in this sea would 
 be productive of improvements in navigation and geo- 
 graphy, as well as in other sciences. 
 
 In consequence of these views, it was Captain Cook's 
 intention first to go in search of the land said to have 
 been discovered by Juan Fernandez, in the last cen- 
 tury. If he should fail in finding this land, he pro- 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 197 
 
 posed to direct his course in quest of Easter Island, or 
 Davis's Laud, the situation of which was known with 
 so little certainty, that none of the attempts lately made 
 for its discovery had been successful. He next in- 
 tended to get within the tropic, and then to proceed 
 to the west, touching at, and settling the situations of 
 such islands, as he might meet with till he arrived at 
 Otaheite, where it was necessary for him to stop, to 
 look for the Adventure. It was also in his contempla- 
 tion to run as far west as the Tierra Austral del Espi- 
 ritu Santo, which Avas discovered by Quiros, and to 
 which M. de Bougainville has given the name of the 
 Great Cyclades. From this laud, it was the captain's 
 plan to steer to the south, and so back to the east, be- 
 tween the latitudes of fifty and sixty. In the execu- 
 tion of this plan, it was his purpose, if possible, to 
 attain the length of Cape Horn in the ensuing No- 
 vember, when he should have the best part of the sum- 
 mer before him, to explore the southern part of the 
 Atlantic Ocean. Great as was this design, our com- 
 mander thought it capable of being carried into exe- 
 cution ; and when he communicated it to his officers, 
 he had the satisfaction of finding that it received their 
 zealous and cheerful concurrence. They displayed the 
 utmost readiness for executing, in the most effectual 
 manner, every measure he thought proper to adopt. 
 With such good examples to direct them, the seamen 
 were always obedient and alert ; and on the present 
 occasion, so far were they from wishing the voyage to 
 be concluded, that they rejoiced at the prospect of its 
 being prolonged another year, and of soon enjoying 
 the benefits of a milder climate. 
 
 In pursuing his course to the north, Captain Cook 
 became well assured, that the discovery of Juan Fer- 
 nandez, if any such was ever made, could be nothing 
 more than a small island. At this time, the captain 
 was attacked by a bilious colic, the violence of which 
 confined him to his bed. The management of the ship, 
 upon this occasion, was left to Mr. Cooper, the first 
 oHicer, who conducted her entirely to his commander's 
 satisfaction. It was several days before the most 
 
193 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 dangerous symptoms of Captain Cook's disorder were 
 removed ; during which time, Mr. Patten the surgeon, 
 in attending upon him, manifested not only the skil ful- 
 ness of a physiciau, but the tenderness of a nurse. 
 ^\hen the captain began to recover, a favourite dog, 
 belonging to Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to his tender 
 stomach. There was no other fresh meat whatever on 
 board, and he could eat not only of the broth which 
 was made of it, but of the flesh itself, when there was 
 nothing else that he was capable of tasting. Thus did 
 he derive nourishment and strength from food, which, 
 to most people in Europe, would have been in the 
 highest degree disgusting, and productive of sickness. 
 The necessity of the case overcame every feeling of 
 dislike. 
 
 On the 11th of March, our navigators came within 
 sight of Easter Island, or Davis's Land ; their transac- 
 tions at which place were of too little moment to de- 
 serve a particular recital. The inhabitants are, in 
 genera], a slender race. In colour, features, and lan- 
 guage, they bear such an affinity to the people of the 
 more western isles, that there can be no doubt of their 
 having been descended from one common original. It 
 is indeed extraordinary, that the same nation should 
 have spread themselves to so wide an extent, as to 
 take in almost a fourth part of the circumference of 
 the globe. With regard to the disposition of the na- 
 tives of Easter Island, it is friendly and hospitable ; 
 but they are as much addicted to stealing, as any of 
 their neighbours. The island itself hath so little to 
 recommend it, that no nation need to contend for the 
 honour of its discovery. So sparing has nature been 
 of her favours to this spot, that there is in it no safe an- 
 chorage, no wood for fuel, no fresh water worth taking 
 on board. The most remarkable objects in the country 
 are some surprising gigantic statues, which were first 
 seen by Roggewein. 
 
 It was with pleasure that our commander quitted a 
 place, which could afford such slender accommodations 
 to vovagers, and directed his course for the Marquesas 
 Islands. He had not been long at sea, before he was 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 199 
 
 again attacked by his bilious disorder. The attack, 
 however, was not so violent as the former one had 
 been. He had reason to believe, that the return of his 
 disease was owing to his having exposed and fatigued 
 himself too much at Easter Island. 
 
 On the 6th and 7th of April, our navigators came 
 within sight of four islands, which they knew to be the 
 Marquesas. To one of them, which was a new disco- 
 very, Captain Cook gave the name of Hood's Island, 
 after that of the young gentleman by whom it was first 
 seen. As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor 
 in Madre de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of 
 St. Christina, a traffic commenced, in the course of 
 which the natives would frequently keep our goods, 
 without making any return. At last the captain was 
 obliged to fire a musket-ball over one man, who had 
 several times treated the English in this manner. This 
 produced only a temporary effect. Too many of the 
 Indians having come on board, our commander, who 
 was going in a boat to find a convenient place for 
 mooring the ship, said to the officers, " Yon must look 
 well after these people, or they will certainly carr}- off 
 something or other." Scarcely had he gotten into the 
 boat, when he was informed, that they had stolen an 
 iron stanchion from the opposite gangway, and were 
 carrying it oft*. Upon this he ordered his men to fire 
 over the canoe, till he could get round in the boat, but 
 not to kill any one. Such, however, was the noise 
 made by the natives, that the order was not heard ; and 
 the unhappy thief was killed at the first shot. All the 
 Indians having retired with precipitation, in conse- 
 quence of this unfortunate accident, Captain Cook 
 followed them into the bay, prevailed upon some of 
 them to come alongside his boat, and, by suitable pre- 
 sents, so far conciliated their minds, that their fears 
 seemed to be in a great measure allaved. The death 
 of their countrvman did not cure them of their thievish 
 disposition ; but, at length, it was somewhat restrained 
 by their conviction, that no distance secured them from 
 the reach of our muskets. Several smaller instances 
 
200 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 of their talent at stealing, the captain thought proper 
 to overlook. 
 
 The provisions obtained at St. Christina were yams, 
 plantains, breadfruit, a few cocoanuts, fowls, and small 
 pigs. For a time, the trade was carried on upon rea- 
 sonable terms : but the market was at last ruined by 
 the indiscretion of some young gentlemen, who gave 
 away in exchange various articles which the inhabi- 
 tants had not seen before, and which captivated their 
 fancy above nails, or more useful iron tools. One of 
 the gentlemen had given for a pig a very large quan- 
 tity of red feathers, which he had gotten at Amster- 
 dam. The effect of this was particularly fatal. It was 
 not possible to support the trade, in the manner in 
 which it was now begun, even for a single day. When, 
 therefore, our commander found that he was not likely 
 to be supplied, on any conditions, with sufficient re- 
 freshments, and that the island was neither very con- 
 Aenient for taking in wood and water, nor for affording 
 the necessary repairs of the ship, he determined to pro- 
 ceed immediately to some other place, where the wants 
 of his people could be effectually relieved. After 
 having been nineteen weeks at sea, and having lived 
 all that time upon salt diet, a change in their food 
 could not avoid being peculiarly desirable : and yet, 
 on their arrival at St. Christina, it could scarcely be 
 asserted that a single man was sick ; and there were 
 but a few who had the least complaint of any kind. 
 " This," says Captain Cook, " w r as undoubtedly owing 
 to the many antiscorbutic articles w 7 e had on board, 
 and to the great attention of the surgeon, who was 
 remarkably careful to apply them in time." It may 
 justly be added, that this was likewise owing to the 
 singular care of the captain himself, and to the exer- 
 tions of his authority, in enforcing the excellent regu- 
 lations which his wisdom and humanity had adopted. 
 
 The chief reason for our commander's touching at 
 the Marquesas Islands, was to fix their situation ; that 
 being the only circumstance in which the nautical ac- 
 count of them, given in Mr. Dairy m pie's collection, is 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 201 
 
 deficient. It was farther desirable to settle this point, 
 as it would lead to a more accurate knowledge of Men- 
 dana's other discoveries. Accordingly, Captain Cook 
 has marked the situation of the Marquesas with his 
 usual correctness. He has also taken care to describe 
 the particular cove in Resolution Bay, in the Island of 
 St. Christina, which is most convenient for obtaining 
 wood and water. 
 
 It is remarkable, with respect to the inhabitants of 
 the Marquesas Islands, that collectively taken, they are, 
 without exception, the finest race of people in this sea. 
 Perhaps they surpass all other nations in svmmetry of 
 form, and regularity of features. It is plain, however, 
 from the affinity of their language to that of Otaheite 
 and the Society Isles, that they are of the same origin. 
 Of this affinity the English were fully sensible, though 
 they could not converse with them ; but Oedidee was 
 capable of doing it tolerably well. 
 
 From the Marquesas, Captain Cook steered for Ota- 
 heite, with a view of falling in with some of the islands 
 discovered by former navigators, and especially by the 
 Dutch, the situation of which had not been accurately 
 determiued. In the course of the voyage, he passed a 
 number of low islots, connected together by reefs of 
 coral rocks. One of the islands, on which Lieutenant 
 Cooper went ashore, with two boats well armed, was 
 called by the natives Tiookea. It had been disco- 
 vered and visited by Captain Byron. The inhabitants 
 of Tiookea are of a much darker colour than those of 
 the higher islands, and appeared to be more fierce in 
 their dispositions. This mav be owing to their manner 
 of gaining their subsistence, which is chiefly from the 
 sea, and to their being much exposed to the sun and 
 the weather. Our voyagers observed, that they were 
 stout well-made men, and that they had marked on tbeii 
 bodies the figure of a fish, which was a good emblem 
 of their profession. 
 
 Besides passing by St. George's Islands, which had 
 been so named by Captain Byron, our commander 
 made the discovery of four others. These he called 
 Palliser's Isles, in honour of his particular friend, Sir 
 
202 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 Hugh Palliser. The inhabitants seemed to be the same 
 sort of people as those of Tiookea, and, like them, 
 were armed with long pikes. Captain Cook could not 
 determine, with any degree of certainty, whether the 
 group of isles he had lately seen, were, or were not, 
 any of those that had been discovered by the Dutch 
 navigators. This was owing to the neglect of record- 
 ing, with sufficient accuracy, the situation of their dis- 
 coveries. Our commander hath, in general, observed, 
 with regard to this part of the ocean, that, from the 
 latitude of twenty down to fourteen or twelve, and 
 from the meridian of a hundred and thirty-eight to a 
 hundred and fortv-eiarht or a hundred and fiftv west, it 
 is so strewed with low isles, that a navigator cannot 
 proceed with too much caution. 
 
 On the 22d of April, Captain Cook reached the 
 Island of Otaheite, and anchored in Matavai Bay. As 
 his chief reason for putting in at this place was to give 
 Mr. Wales an opportunitv of ascertaining the error of 
 the watch by the known longitude, and to determine 
 anew her rate of going, the first object was to land the 
 instruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a 
 guard, and such other people, as it was necessary to 
 have on shore. Sick there were none ; for the refresh- 
 ments which had been obtained at the Marquesas had 
 removed every complaint of that kind. 
 
 From the quantity of provisions, which, contrary to 
 expectation, our commander now found at Otaheite, he 
 determined to make a longer stav in the island than he 
 had at first intended. Accordinglv, he took measures 
 for the repairs of the ship, which the high southern 
 latitudes had rendered indispensably necessary. 
 
 During Captain Cook's stay at Otaheite, he main- 
 tained a most friendly connexion with the inhabitants ; 
 and a continual interchange of visits was preserved 
 between him and Otoo, Towha, and other chiefs of the 
 country. His traffic with them was greatly facilitated 
 by his having fortunately brought with him some red 
 parrot feathers from the island of Amsterdam. These 
 were jewels of high value in the eyes of the Otaheitans. 
 The captain's stock in trade was by this time greatly 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 203 
 
 exhausted ; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, 
 he would have found it difficult to have supplied the 
 ship with the necessary refreshments. 
 
 Among other entertainments which our commander 
 and the rest of the English gentlemen met with at 
 Otaheite, one was a grand naval review. The vessels 
 of war consisted of a hundred and sixty large double 
 canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed. They were 
 decorated with flags and streamers ; and the chiefs, 
 together with all those who were on the fighting 
 stages, were dressed in their war habits. The whole 
 fleet made a noble appearance ; such as our voyagers 
 had never seen before in this sea, or could ever have 
 expected. Besides the vessels of war, there were a 
 hundred and seventy sail of smaller double canoes, 
 which seemed to be designed for transports and vic- 
 tuallers. Upon each of them was a little house ; and 
 they were rigged with mast and sail, which was not 
 the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook guessed, 
 that there were no less than seven thousand seven hun- 
 dred and sixty men in the whole fleet. He was not 
 able to obtain full information concerning the design 
 of this armament. 
 
 Notwithstanding the agreeable intercourse that was, 
 in general, maintained between our commander and 
 the people of Otaheite, circumstances occasionally 
 happened, which called for peculiar exertions of his 
 prudence and resolution. One of the natives, who 
 had attempted to steal a water-cask from the watering- 
 place, was caught in the fact, sent on board, and put in 
 irons. In this situation, he was seen by King Otoo, 
 and other chiefs. Captain Cook having made known 
 to them the crime of their countryman, Otoo entreated 
 that he might be set at liberty. This the captain how- 
 ever refused, alleging, that since he punished his own 
 people, when they committed the least offence against 
 Otoo's, it was but just that this man should also be 
 punished. As Captain Cook knew that Otoo would 
 not punish him, he resolved to do it himself. Accord- 
 ingly, he directed the criminal to be carried on shore 
 to the tents, and having himself followed, with the 
 
204 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 chiefs and other Otaheitans, he ordered the guard out, 
 under arms, and commanded the man to be tied up to 
 a post. Otoo again solicited the culprit's release, and 
 in this he was seconded by his sister, but in vain. The 
 captain expostulated with him on the conduct of the 
 man, and of the Indians in general; telling him, that 
 neither he, nor any of the ship's company, took the 
 smallest matter of property from them without first 
 paying for it ; enumerating the articles which the 
 English had given in exchange for such and such 
 things ; and urging, that it was wrong in them to steal 
 from those who were their friends. He added, that 
 the punishing of the guilty person would be the means 
 of saving the lives of several of Otoo's people, by de- 
 terring them from committing crimes of the like na- 
 ture, and thus preventing them from the danger of 
 being shot to death, which would certainly happen, at 
 one time or other, if they persisted in their robberies. 
 With these arguments the king appeared to be satis- 
 fied, and only desired that the man might not be killed. 
 Captain Cook then directed, that the crowd, which was 
 very great, should be kept at a proper distance, and, 
 in the presence of them all, ordered the fellow two 
 dozen of lashes with a cat-o'-niue-tails. This punish- 
 ment the man sustained with great firmness, after which 
 he was set at liberty. When the natives were going 
 away, Towha called them back, and, with much grace- 
 fulness of action, addressed them in a speech of nearly 
 half an hour in length, the design of which was to 
 condemn their present conduct, and to recommend a 
 different one for the future. To make a farther im- 
 pression upon the minds of the inhabitants, our com- 
 mander ordered his marines to go through their exer- 
 cises, and to load and fire in volleys with ball. As they 
 were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is more easy to 
 conceive "than to describe the amazement which pos- 
 sessed the Indians during the whole time, and especially 
 those of them who had not seen any thing of the kind 
 before. 
 
 The judicious will discern, with regard to this nar- 
 rative, that it throws peculiar light on Captain Cook's 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 205 
 
 character. Nor is it an uncurious circumstance in the 
 history of human society, that a stranger should thus 
 exercise jurisdiction over the natives of a country, in 
 the presence of the prince of that country, without his 
 authority, and even contrary to his solicitations. 
 
 Another disagreeable altercation with the inhabi- 
 tants of Otaheite arose from the negligence of one of 
 the English sentinels on shore. Having either slept 
 or quitted his post, an Indian seized the opportunity 
 of carrying off his musket. When any extraordinary 
 theft was committed, it immediately excited such an 
 alarm among the natives in general, from their fear of 
 Captain Cook's resentment, that they fled from their 
 habitations, and a stop was put to the traffic for pro- 
 visions. On the present occasion, the captain had no 
 small degree of trouble ; but, by his prudent conduct, 
 the musket was recovered, peace restored, and com- 
 merce again opened. In the differences which hap- 
 pened with the several people he met with in his voy- 
 ages, it was a rule with him, never to touch the least 
 article of their property, any farther than to detain 
 their canoes for a while, when it became absolutely ne- 
 cessary. He always chose the most mild and equitable 
 methods of bringing them to reason ; and in this he 
 not only succeeded, but frequently put things upon a 
 better footing than if no contention had taken place. 
 
 During this visit to Otaheite, fruit and other re- 
 freshments were obtained in great plenty. The relief 
 arising from them was the more agreeable and salu- 
 tary, as the bread of the ship was in a bad condition. 
 Though the biscuit had been aired and picked at New 
 Zealand, it was now in such a state of decay, that it 
 was necessary for it to undergo another airing and 
 cleaning, in which much of it was found wholly rotten, 
 and unlit to be eaten. This decay was judged to be 
 owing to the ice our navigators had frequently taken 
 in, when to the southward, which made the hold of the 
 vessel cold and damp, and to the great heat that suc- 
 ceeded, when they came to the north. Whatever was 
 the cause, the loss was so considerable, that the men 
 were put to a scanty allowance in this article, with the 
 
206 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 additional mortification, of the bread's being bad that 
 could be used. 
 
 Two goats, that had been given by Captain Fur- 
 neaux to Otoo, in the former part of the voyage, seemed 
 to promise fair for answering the purposes for which 
 they were left upon the island. The ewe, soon after, 
 had two female kids, which were now so far grown as 
 to be almost ready to propagate. At the same time, 
 the old ewe was again with kid. The people were very 
 fond of them, and they were in excellent condition. 
 From these circumstances, Captain Cook entertained a 
 hope, that, in a course of years, they would multiply 
 so much, as to be extended over all the isles of the 
 Southern Ocean. The like success did not attend the 
 sheep which had been left in the country. These 
 speedily died, one excepted, which was said to be yet 
 alive. Our navigators also furnished the natives with 
 cats, having given away no less than twenty at Otaheite, 
 besides some which had been made presents of at Ulie- 
 tea and Huaheine. 
 
 With regard to the number of the inhabitants of 
 Otaheite, our commander collected, from comparing 
 several facts together, that, including women and 
 children, there could not be less, in the whole island, 
 than two hundred and four thousand. This number, at 
 first sight, exceeded his belief. But when he came to re- 
 flect on the vast swarms of people that appeared where- 
 ever he went, he was convinced, that the estimate was 
 agreeable to truth. 
 
 Such was the friendly treatment which our vovagers 
 met with at Otaheite, that one of the gunners mates 
 was induced to form a plan for remaining in the coun- 
 try. As he knew that he could not execute his scheme 
 with success, while the Resolution continued in Ma- 
 tavai Bay, he took the opportunity, when she was ready 
 to quit it, and the sails were set for that purpose, to 
 slip overboard. Being a good swimmer, he had no 
 doubt of getting safe to a canoe, which was at some 
 distance ready to receive him ; for his design was 
 concerted with the natives, and had even been encou- 
 raged h\ Otoo. However, he was discwered before 
 
SECOND VOYAGE. 207 
 
 lie had gotten clear of the ship, and a boat being pre- 
 sently hoisted out, he was taken up, and brought back 
 to the vessel. When our commander reflected on this 
 man's situation, he did not think him very culpable, or 
 his desire of staying in the island so extraordinary, as 
 might at first vieyv be imagined. He yvas a native of 
 Ireland, and had sailed in the Dutch service. Captain 
 Cook, on his return from his former voyage, had picked 
 him up at Batavia, and had kept him in his employment 
 ever since. It did not appear, that he had either 
 friends or connexions, which could bind him to any 
 particular part of the world. All nations being alike 
 to him, yvhere could he be more happy than at Ota- 
 heite? Here, in one of the finest climates of the 
 globe, he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the 
 luxuries of life, in ease and plent}'. The captain 
 seems to think, that if the man had applied to him in 
 time, he might have given his consent to his remaining 
 in the country. 
 
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