Detailed Directions for Laying and Caring for Linoleum A COMPLETE HANDBOOK FOR LINOLEUM LAYERS Armstrong Cork Company Linoleum Department Lancaster, Pa., U. S. A. Extra Copies Free on Request The proper laying of linoleum is the most serious problem in the whole in¬ dustry 'today. Every floor covering merchant, who wishes to increase his linoleum sales, is therefore vitally in¬ terested in this book. Read it. Study it. Follow the sug¬ gestions it offers and you will find that your linoleum business will steadily increase. Extra copies of this book supplied any merchant free on request. Put a copy in the hands of each of your linoleum layers. Copyright 1918 By Armstrong Cork Company Linoleum Department Lancaster, Pa. How to Lay and Care for Linoleum Every floor covering merchant should realize the im¬ portance of seeing that each piece of linoleum that goes out of his store is laid in such manner as to give lasting satisfaction to the buyer. For success in the linoleum business depends very largely on that one thing. Now that your customers are being educated by the Armstrong national advertising to the advantages of linoleum as a floor for many rooms beside the kitchen and bath, the matter of proper laying is doubly im¬ portant. One good linoleum floor, well laid, will lead to many additional orders. The methods outlined in this handbook are based on the practical experience of experts who make linoleum laying a profession. Any careful workman can put linoleum down to stay, if he will follow the directions here given, step by step. The Ideal Method of Laying Linoleum There is only one ideal way to lay linoleum over concrete or wood, and that is to paste it down over a layer of heavy felt paper and seal the joints with waterproof cement. This adds to the cost, but the use of the felt layer positively in¬ creases the life of the linoleum and insures a permanent, satis¬ factory floor. When the many advantages of this method are explained to customers, few will be unwilling to pay the extra expense. In fact, the cost in the long run is less than where makeshift work is done, since the possibility of having to tear up and replace the linoleum because of bulging or cracking, due to faulty laying, is eliminated. Sell Linoleum as a Floor: In quoting prices to a customer, base the quotation on what the entire floor will cost, expense of laying included. Add enough to the cost of the goods to cover a reasonable charge for the work. It is not difficult to show the customer that it will pay to have the laying done by your skilled workmen. Induce the customer to buy a grade 1 of linoleum suitable for the purpose, and have it properly laid. Such procedure will make real friends for you in the long run. Advantages of the Felt Under Layer: The advantages of using a layer of felt are many. They include: 1 _ On wood floors, the work of laying can be com¬ pleted in a single trip. Ordinarily the floor can be used at once—while the work is in progress, if necessary. On concrete floors, the felt is laid one day, and the linoleum the next. 2. The felt layer acts as a cushion, and makes the floor delightful to walk upon. Its use positively increases the life of the linoleum. 3. The felt layer deadens sound. It makes the floor much warmer in winter. 4. When properly pasted to the felt, the linoleum cannot bulge, expand or contract. Re trimming is un¬ necessary. 5. All floors—particularly wood—are subject to expansion and contraction, due to heat and cold. The felt takes up this expansion or contraction, and prevents cracking or breaking which is apt to occur when linoleum is cemented to wood. 6. The linoleum can be removed without damage and with little difficulty, if occasion should arise. Directions for Laying Linoleum Over Felt Materials Required: In addition to the linoleum selected by the customer, the following materials are needed: 1. Enough building felt to cover the entire floor area. This is the ordinary gray, unsaturated felt used by builders, commonly known as deadening felt. It comes in 3-foot widths. It is made by a number of manu¬ facturers, and can be secured through your local lumber 2 Fig. 1—Materials Required for Laying Linoleum Over Felt This illustration shows all the materials and tools necessary for putting linoleum down over a layer of felt paper. Enough building felt is needed to cover floor. Arm¬ strong’s Linoleum Paste is used for pasting the felt to the floor, and the center of the linoleum strips to the felt. Nonpareil Linoleum Waterproof Cement is used along all edges and seams. Besides proper brushes, the only tools needed are a linoleum knife and an iron roller. Face bricks or sand bags are used to weight seams and edges. yard or hardware dealer. The grade you should use weighs 1 Yl pounds to the square yard. 2. Armstrong’s Linoleum Paste for pasting the felt to the floor, and the center of the linoleum strips to the felt. One gallon of paste will cover about 100 square feet of space. Order approximately enough to cover twice the area of the floor space. 3. Nonpareil Waterproof Linoleum Cement for all seams, edges, and openings. In general, one gallon of Nonpareil Waterproof Cement has a spreading capacity of sixty to eighty square feet, depending on the roughness of the surface to be covered. For seams and edges only, one gallon will suffice for fifty to sixty square yards of goods. 4. A special iron roller, weighing about 1.50 pounds, for rolling the felt and the linoleum, is ordinarily employed by contract layers. A hollow cylinder roller, like those 3 used for lawns, may he employed. The proper use of a roller makes largely for success in linoleum laying. 5. A linoleum knife for cutting seams and around edges. 6. A standard 4-ineh paint brush for applying the linoleum cement. A calcimine brush for applying the linoleum paste. 7. Face bricks, sand bags, or other satisfactory weights for weighting seams and edges. High Grade Cement Must Be Used: Nonpareil Water¬ proof Linoleum Cement is specifically recommended for ce¬ menting linoleum. It is highly dangerous to use a cement of unknown quality. There are some such on the market which have silicate of soda or water-glass as their base. This sub¬ stance is the opposite of water-repellent; it is water-attract¬ ing. Its ingredients, under certain conditions, undergo chemical changes, and become highly destructive. Steps in Laying Linoleum Over Felt Handling Rolls of Linoleum: In cold weather, linoleum becomes brittle, and if unrolled when cold, is apt to crack. Before laying linoleum in the winter months, therefore, it should be kept in a warm room for at least 48 hours before it is unrolled. Be sure to cut the string and loosen the roll, when the goods are delivered. Cutting the Felt and Linoleum: A careful linoleum layer will take precise measurements of the floor to be covered, and work out a definite plan for cutting the goods. Much material can thus be saved. Care should be taken not to cut either the felt or the linoleum too scant at any point. Patching takes time, and is unsightly. It is usually best first to cut the felt to fit the short way of the room. It should be carefully measured so the edges 4 will fit flush with the base board. The quarter-round floor moulding should always be removed before laying the felt. In similar manner, the lengths of linoleum should be cut to fit the long way of the room, or across the lengths of build¬ ing felt. It is well to cut both the felt and the linoleum a little long and trim to fit. Condition of Wood Floors: Whether the felt layer is used or not, all wood floors should be dry and well-seasoned before the linoleum is laid. The surface should be smooth and even, and free from all dirt or foreign matter. All cracks should be filled, and if knots or nails protrude they must be smoothed down. This preliminary preparation of the floor is very important. When moisture cannot escape, mildew or mold will set in. This explains why it is so essential to have the floor thoroughly dry. Condition of Concrete Floors: New concrete floors can¬ not be considered absolutely dry in much less than three or four months after construction, depending on season, weather and other conditions. Moisture in the floor will neutralize the effects of any cement, and the action of mold or mildew will set in wherever moisture has no opportunity to evaporate. It is essential, therefore, that the linoleum be not laid until the concrete has had time to season and dry thoroughly. Not only must the concrete floor be thoroughly clean, and free from all foreign matter and dirt, but any cracks should be filled with plaster of Paris, especially the expansion (V) cracks; otherwise, these cracks in time may show on the linoleum surface. Caution is recommended when laying linoleum over concrete in basements. No matter how well built, they are likely to be damp. Before linoleum is laid in any basement, the floor must be thoroughly waterproofed. Ask for further information before undertaking to do work of this kind. a Laying the Felt: The preparations for laying the felt are much like those for hanging wall paper. Place the first width of felt closely along the side of the wall and trim the'ends to fit snugly. Then turn one end of the loose felt back about half way and apply Armstrong’s Linoleum Paste (non- waterproof) evenly with a calcimine brush to the back of the felt. Enough paste should be used to insure firm adhesion of the felt to the floor. When i-eady, replace the paste-covered half in position on the floor. As this is done, the felt can be pressed out with the hands or feet. All air blisters must be completely smoothed out. Next the other half of the width of felt, in like manner, is turned back and given its coating of paste, and then put into position on the floor. The ends must not be cut too short; they should butt up tight against the wall or baseboard. The roller is then used to smooth out the felt, and insure its firm adhesion to the floor. The other widths of felt are treated in exactly the same way as the first. Butt the edges carefully; be sure the felt does not lap, as this would make a ridge under the linoleum. The seams must fit closely. The felt should be cut to fit neatly around built-in furniture, radiator feet, pipes, and the door jambs and sill. Careful workmanship is essential. If possible, let the felt dry for several hours before pro¬ ceeding with the rest of the job. But in the case of wood floors, if time is limited, or only one room is to be done, the linoleum can be laid over the felt at once, before the paste is entirely dry. On concrete floors the felt should be allowed to dry for 12 hours before the linoleum is laid. Fitting the Linoleum: The widths of linoleum, cut to measure as previously described, can best be handled in the room in rolled-up form, ready for use. The first width of linoleum is fitted into position against the wall. Press the edges firmly against the baseboard or 6 In applying linoleum paste to the surface of the felt, a margin four inches wide should be left bare along the edges, seams and ends. rr .; ^4. inch margin left bare for Waterproof Cement Armstrong's Linoleum Paste Fig. 2—Method of Applying Paste and Cement to Felt Paper Armstrong’s Linoleum Paste is applied to the surface of the felt, not to the back of the linoleum. A space four inches wide is left bar$ at each side and end of the strip. The linoleum is then put in place and rolled. Later, when the paste has set, the edges of the linoleum are lifted, and Nonpareil Linoleum Waterproof Cement applied to the felt as far back as the paste will permit. wall, and, using a linoleum knife, cut to fit neatly. By care¬ ful work, a very tight joint against the wall, or other surface, can be secured. In fitting linoleum around pipes, it should be cut neatly from the edge of the piece along a straight line, and just enough material should be removed to make the linoleum fit snugly around the pipe. A good layer is known by the way he fits his linoleum to the walls and around per¬ manent projections in the floor. 7 Applying the Paste: When ready finally to lay the linoleum, draw a chalk mark along the edges of the piece to indicate on the felt where the linoleum seams will come. This will serve as a guide in applying the paste. One end of the width of goods is then rolled back a little more than half way. Fig. 3—Applying the Paste to the Felt Every square inch of the felt surface, except a four inch margin along the edges, seams and ends of the linoleum strips, is thoroughly covered with Armstrong’s Linoleum Paste. The chalk mark serves as a guide to the workman. The workman then assumes a position in front of the roll of linoleum as shown in Figures 2 and 3, and applies the paste evenly on the felt, not the linoleum, to within 4 to 6 inches of each side and each end, as indicated by the chalk marks. This 4 to 6-inch space is left bare for the later application of Nonpareil Waterproof Linoleum Cement. Wherever the linoleum has to be cut and fitted around pipes, projections, etc., a similar uncoated space is left. When the top surface of the felt has thus beer, properly coated with paste, the linoleum is unrolled into position, and pressed firmly in place with the hands or feet, using a small piece of cloth to protect the linoleum. The other end of the linoleum is next rolled back, and the felt on that side is sim- s ilarly coated with paste. The linoleum is carefully rolled, and all air blisters completely smoothed out. Along the ends, the linoleum will ride or extend up slightly, and must be cut to fit snugly into place. , If plain, jaspe or granite linoleum or cork carpet is being laid, put down the next width of goods so that its edge will lap the piece already down, along the seam. This overlap may extend from ]/i to % of an inch. In laying inlaids or prints, however, the edges should be butted tightly against each other (not lapped) so as not to spoil the matching of the pat¬ tern. In turn each length of linoleum is pasted to the felt- covered floor. In each case, the edges and seams are free, and can lie lifted to receive the necessary coating of Waterproof Cement. As in the case of the felt, it is advisable to allow the paste under the linoleum to dry. If several rooms are being done, the workmen can proceed to the next room. On a small job, however, it is safe to finish the operation after two or three hours. '• Fitting the Seams: If plains, jaspes or cork carpet have been laid in accordance with the directions given on this page the linoleum strips will overlap from 3^ inch to % inch, or even more at the seams. Here is where the fine art of the linoleum cutter comes in. Practice makes perfect as in any other kind of work. Figure 4 shows a workman cutting the seams. He takes the cutting knife in his right hand and guides the blade with his left hand. Beginning at one ?nd, he cuts through with one stroke both the top layer of linoleum, and the layer beneath, which it overlaps. The knife is held perfectly perpendicular to insure a straight up and down cut. As may be seen in the picture on page 10, two strips of linoleum are cut off, and a perfect joint between the edges of the two pieces of linoleum must result. A good cutter will trust his eye to help him 9 make straight cut. For the inexperienced, a chalk line may he used as a guide. Seams fitted in this way are well-nigh invisible. Remember this method of fitting seams cannot be used on patterned linoleum. Cementing the Seams: A high grade waterproof cement should be used for cementing the seams. This is necessary to prevent moisture getting under the linoleum. Especially Fig. 4—Fitting the Seams Both over-lapping seams are cut through at the same time. A perfect joint results. Seams fitted in this way are well-nigh invisible. under sinks and radiators, or around pipes, is the use of water¬ proof cement essential. Nonpareil Waterproof Linoleum Cement is guaranteed for this purpose. The edges of the linoleum should be lifted up as shown in Figure 5, and the brush pushed under, until a good thick coating of waterproof cement is obtained for 4 to (5 inches back (as far back as the paste) on both sides of the seam, and around 10 all the edges. This work cannot be done too well. The cement is applied only to the felt. If any cement should get on the surface of the linoleum, remove it at once, with alcohol. Rolling the Linoleum: As soon as the seams and edges are cemented, the roller should be used to press the linoleum into place. The roller should be run over the entire seam re¬ peatedly, until all is even and perfectly smooth. If one of the edges at the seams should still stick up slightly above the other, a light hammer should be used to tap the edge gently into place. After rolling the joints, they will become prac¬ tically invisible, and will be watertight. See Figure 6. Weighting the Seams and Edges: To hold the freshly- cemented seams and edges firmly in position to dry, it is 1'Tq, 5—Applying Nonpareil Linoleum Waterproof Cement to the Felt After the paste has set, the edges of the linoleum are lifted, and waterproof cement is applied to the felt as far back as the paste will permit. This insures watertight joints. 11 necessary to weight them down. Good, clean, heavy face bricks (or sand bags) are generally available and can be used for this purpose, as shown in Figure 7. Along walls and in corners place the bricks carefully so as to force the linoleum down at these im¬ portant points. An exper¬ ienced layer can tell by the sound of the brick against the linoleum when perfect adhesion has been secured. The weights should be kept in position for Fig. (3—Rolling the Linoleum The use of the roller secures good adhesion, and makes the seams practically invisible. at least twenty-four hours, by which time the cement will have set firmly. If necessary, the floor can be used even while the work is being done. Some layers put paper under the bricks to prevent scratching the surface of the linoleum. When the cement has 12 Fig. 7—Weighting Seams and Edges To hold the seams and edges firmly in position for the cement to dry, face bricks are used to weight them down. Sand bags may be used, instead of bricks. dried sufficiently, remove the weights, and replace the quarter- round moulding in position, taking care to do this work neatly. A Permanent Floor: Linoleum installed over felt paper in the manner described, is waterproof and cannot buckle or "creep.” It is practically a permanent floor, and will last longer than linoleum laid in any other fashion. Because of the increased satisfaction such a floor gives, i f will be decidedly to your advantage, in the long run, to convince your customers of the desirability of having you lay their linoleum for them, following this method. Laying Linoleum Without Felt Under Layer As stated before, the laying of linoleum directly upon the floor, without a felt layer, is not recommended. There are 13 occasions, however, when linoleum is purchased to meet a less permanent need, as in apartment houses, stores and offices, where tenants have short leases, in which cases, customers may he unwilling to pay the extra cost that the use of felt involves. Careful workmanship then becomes all the more essential, as poor laying will inevitably cause trouble, and necessitate doing the work over. Directly on Wood Floors—Without Felt As explained on page 5, the wood should be dry and well- seasoned, the surface smooth and even. In time, linoleum will conform to all the inequalities of the floor, and breaking is apt to occur if it is uneven. Make sure the floor is per¬ fectly dry. Cutting the Linoleum: Remember the caution about handling linoleum in cold weather. Unroll it only after it has been kept in a warm room for forty-eight hours. See page 4. Take precise measurements of the floor and be careful not to cut the linoleum too scant at any point. If possible, the length of the linoleum should run crosswise to the direction of the boards, as it will thus take up any slight inequalities to better advantage. However, always endeavor to cut the linoleum to the best advantage. Letting Linoleum “Grow”: After linoleum has been rolled tightly for several weeks or months, it is bound to expand or “grow” for some time after it is laid flat. Where there is heavy traffic, and the floor is much used, it may take only a week or so for the linoleum to stretch. In most residences, however, it takes from two to four weeks to over¬ come the “growing” tendency. Therefore, in laying linoleum over a wood floor, allow for expansion. The following method is recommended to take care of this expansion tendency and insure a floor that will be reasonably free from the troubles, that are sometimes met with when linoleum is laid directly on wood. 14 Remove Floor Moulding: First, remove the quarter round floor moulding around the baseboard. Cut the linoleum scant at each end just so the edge will be covered by the quarter round moulding when this is replaced. Along each side wall the linoleum is not placed tight against the base¬ board, but just as at the ends, a space of j/g to Y inch is left. The edges of the linoleum along all seams are butted against each other. When laid in this manner, the linoleum will have oppor¬ tunity to expand under the edge of the quarter round moulding. When the quarter round moulding is replaced, it must not be nailed to the sur¬ face of the linoleum, but to the baseboard only. It must not bind the linoleum at any point. The linoleum should be given plenty of time to expand. Should a buckle or air-bubble develop, it should be smoothed or rolled out, and if necessary, the end or edge of the linoleum under the quarter-round mould¬ ing cut back a trifle. Many linoleum layers make the mistake of bradding linoleum in one or two places during the expansion period. This should never be done. Linoleum cannot expand properly if even one or two brads are used. If possible, heavy furniture should be kept off the floor during this time, as it prevents expansion. If such furniture must be used in the room, move it from one part of the room to another every few days. Give every foot of the linoleum a chance to expand. Fig. 8—Laying Linoleum on Wood Floors, Without Felt In laying linoleum on a wood floor, to allow room for expansion, a space Y to Y inch wide is left between the base¬ board and the edge of the linoleum, as shown at A. The quarter round moulding is nailed to the baseboard, tsee B), and does not press tightly against the surface of the linoleum. 15 In many cases no further fastening will be necessary. The quarter-round moulding will be all that is required to hold the linoleum in place. This is especially true in private houses. If not necessary, do not brad the linoleum. Fitting Around Pipes and Projections: The linoleum layer who does not fit the fabric neatly around radiators, waste pipes, etc., is not a good workman. Wherever pos¬ sible, insist that gas stoves, kitchen ranges, or any other movable equipment be disconnected so the linoleum can be laid underneath. Fastening the Linoleum. Where it is necessary to fasten the linoleum to wood floors, use No. 18, %-ineh wire brads. I)o not use carpet tacks. The brads should be set in \g inch to } j inch from the edge oi seam, and should be spaced about 4 inches apart around the edges, and 3 inches apart on seams. The brad should be driven down until its head is lost in the surface of the linoleum. Directly on Concrete Floors—Without Felt The advantage of using a felt layer over any floor, in¬ cluding concrete, have been stated on page 2. It acts as a cushion between the linoleum and the hard base. If, how¬ ever, the customer decides against the use of the felt layer, the linoleum may be pasted directly to the floor. Floor Must Be Dry: Read the caution about laying linoleum over concrete floors, on page 5. It is essential that linoleum be not laid until the concrete has had time to season and dry thoroughly. Applying the Paste: In laying linoleum directly over concrete, Armstrong’s Linoleum Paste should be used for the center of the strips, and Nonpareil Waterproof Cement for the seams and edges. Remove all foreign matter and dirt, and put the first linoleum strip in position. A chalk mark drawn 16 on the floor along the edges of the linoleum will serve as a guide in applying the paste. Roll back half the length of the goods and apply a thick coating of the paste to the concrete floor, to within 4 to 6 inches of each edge and seam. Replace the first half of the linoleum, and repeat the operation with the other half. Then roll the surface of the linoleum thor¬ oughly with the 150 pound iron roller, and smooth out all air blisters carefully. In laying the succeeding widths of linoleum, remember that the edges of inlaid and printed goods must be butted tightly against each other. On plain goods, jaspes, granites and cork carpets, however, the edges may be overlapped J/g to } 2 inch, and the seams made perfectly tight by cutting in the manner described on pages 9 and 10. Cementing Edges and Seams: After the centers of all the strips have been pasted to the floor, the linoleum should be carefully fitted along all edges and seams. Finally the edges of each strip should be lifted and Nonpareil Linoleum Water¬ proof Cement applied to the concrete underneath, as far back as the paste will permit. (See Figure 5 on page 11.) Weights such as pressed bricks or sand bags should then be placed along the freshly-cemented edges and seams, and allowed to remain for twenty-four hours. How to Care for Linoleum When given reasonable care and treatment, linoleum floors will last for years, and retain their attractive appear¬ ance indefinitely. They are easier to keep clean than hard¬ wood and require less attention. Cleaning Linoleum: As it does not catch dirt readily, the daily sweeping of linoleum is a very easy task. Sweeping should be followed each day by the use of an oil mop. Under most conditions, this will be all the cleaning required. 17 A. mild soap—one free from alkali—with tepid water is the only cleaning agent that should ever be employed. The water should not be hot, and the linoleum should be rinsed with clear water and dried thoroughly immediately after it is washed. It is best to wash and dry about one square yard at a time. When a mop is used, the surface should never be “flooded” with water. Avoid Caustic Soaps: Contrary to the idea held by a good many housewives, certain well-advertised cleaning soaps and washing powders are not good to use on linoleum. In fact, some of them are positively detrimental, as they contain alkalies. The chemical action of strong caustic or alkali destroys the linseed oil and cork in linoleum, just as it does varnish on hardwood. This action will not be apparent until a cleansing agent of this kind has been used for some time. In printed linoleums, the caustic or alkali will attack the painted surface much more quickly than the surface of inlaid or plain goods. The best rule is to caution your trade to avoid the use of all soda, lye, potash, cleaning powders, and strong scouring soaps. A good brush and a little “ elbow grease, ” with mild soap and warm water, will clean linoleum thoroughly. Polishing Linoleum: Linoleum will last longer, and the brightness of the colors be retained and renewed, if the surface is gone over occasionally with a good polish or floor wax, thoroughly rubbed in. In Europe, where housewives take great pride in their floors, polishing their linoleum is an im¬ portant part of the routine housework. Under such treat¬ ment, the floors always look new, and last for many years. There are a number of good floor preparations on the market, such as “Johnson’s Prepared Wax,” “Old English Wax,” “Liquid Veneer,” or “O-Cedar Polish,” which will give excellent results. A home-made polish that is quite satisfactory is easily prepared by dissolving under slow heat, equal parts by weight of beeswax and turpentine. Care 18 must be taken to avoir! setting this mixture on fire in pre¬ paring it. Whatever the polish, use it sparingly and rub it in thoroughly. Waxing Machine: For large offices and business build¬ ings, an electric floor waxing machine has been devised which materially reduces the labor and cost of keeping linoleum floors clean and polished. A good floor wax is applied once or twice a month, depending on the amount of traffic. Each night the workman goes over the floor with the electric machine, which removes foot marks and puts the floor back in its original polished condition. Full information about this machine will be sent upon request. Heavy Furniture on Linoleum: The castors ordinarily used are apt to cut into linoleum if the furniture is heavy. Therefore, it is best to use glass or metal shoes. These sliding shoes have a wide bearing surface, and no rough edges. They are made in several sizes, have a similar shank to that on a regular castor, and will fit the same sockets. On chairs, rubber tips will answer the same purpose. Always lay a piece of carpet on the floor, or a board, when moving very heavy furniture, to prevent marring the surface of linoleum. Storing Linoleum: Linoleum in stock should always be kept in a warm, dry, room. Remember that linoleum is a fabric and is susceptible to damage from moisture, steam or excessive heat. Keep it away from leaky steam radiators or pipes. Do not store it in damp cellars. It is better to store linoleum rolls on end, if possible. Free Booklet for Your Customers To help the merchant educate his customers to the advantages of having linoleum laid properly, a simple booklet, 3j/£x6 inches in size, has been prepared for the merchant to distribute to his trade. This booklet, entitled, “ How to Lay and Care for Linoleum in addition to a brief description 19 of the method of laying linoleum over a layer of felt paper, emphasizes the importance of having the merchant’s ex¬ perienced linoleum layers do the work. It also contains facts about the care of linoleum that every housewife should know. These booklets will be supplied free, upon request, in lots of 200, with the merchant’s name imprinted on them. Additional lots will be sent postpaid for fifty cents per hun¬ dred copies, including imprinting. In ordering, please state how you desire your firm name imprinted on the cover. Armstrong’s Linoleum Diiuiuiniiiiiiiiiuiimnniiiniiiiiiiiniiniiiiiiit-gi;ii:Mi:nir l xirriii::i;M:i:ii^g!aiiiiiii:.'prriii'iir iiRPTiir..TTiiiiimnminiiiiiiiiii miimHiTniiiinimiiiiiiinmiiifc For Every Room in the House Prepared by Armstrong Cork Company, Publicity Department, Pittsburgh, Pa. Photographs by courtesy of Conradson and Hill, New York Other Armstrong Publications The following publications have been prepared to help the linoleum merchant and his salesmen increase their linoleum business. Any of these books will be sent free upon request. Building Linoleum Business : A 9x12 inch book, con¬ taining full information about the entire series of free Armstrong Linoleum Selling Helps—window displays, newspaper cuts, lantern slides, cut-outs, etc. Helpful Hints for Linoleum Salesman : A new book for the man on the floor. Beautiful Floors for Your Home: A six page 33^x6 inch folder, for distribution to retail customers. Sent free in lots of 200, with merchant’s name imprinted on the cover. Extra copies 75c per 100, including imprinting. How to Lay and Care for Linoleum : A sixteen page 3}/£x6 inch booklet, for distribution by merchants to retail cus¬ tomers. Sent free in lots of 200. Extra copies 50c per 100, including imprinting. Pocket Size Pattern Book: Presents color plates of the entire Armstrong Line of 380 patterns. Pocket Size Quality Sample Book : Contains quality samples of fifteen of the most important grades of Armstrong’s Linoleum, including plain and jaspe linoleum, cork carpet, and inlaid and printed goods. Both of the latter are convenient aids for soliciting linoleum business, both inside and outside the store. The Art of Home Furnishing and Decoration, by Frank Alvah Parsons: An interesting treatise by America’s fore¬ most authority on interior decoration, indicating bow linoleum can be used successfully in every room in the house. With it, is included a series of eight beautiful interiors in color, de¬ signed by Mr. Parsons, showing various rooms with linoleum floors. Sent for 20 cents in stamps.