m ill CGDKBGDK iSMlil OP OscarTschikky /'vAITRBD'iloTE: The Waldorf IIHi&SBi !Ex ICtbrtH FORT NEW AMSTERDA.n (NEW YORK) , 1651 When you leave, please leave this book Because it has been said "Sver'thing comes t' him who waits Except a loaned book." Avi RY AR< HIM CTURAL KND FlNl ARTS LIBRARY (in 1 01 si t to June [st All the year, but June 1st to November 1st. All the year. November 1 st to June 1 st. All the year. June ist to November 1 st. Anchovies, . Codfish, dried, . Herring, Herring — Pickled, Mackerel, Prawns, . Salmon, , SEASONS. Salt Fish. All the year. All the year. All the year All the year. All the year. September 1st to April All the year. Smoked Fish. Haddock Smoked or ) Finnan 1 laddie \ October 1st to April 1st Halibut — -Smoked, . October ist to April ist Herring- -Smoked, All the year. Bloaters, October ist to May ist. Kippered, October ist to May 1st. Mackerel, October ist to May 1st. Salmon, . All the year. Shad, October 1st to May 1st. Sturgeon, October ist to May ist. Whitcfish, October 1st to May 1st. Poultry, Capon. .... December 1st to August 1st. Chicken to Broil, i l / 2 lb., All the year. Saute 1 . 2 l /± lbs. All the year. Roast, 3 lbs., All the year. Winter, 4 lbs., . All the year. Duck — Mongrel, September 1st to May Ist. Tame, . May ist to December 1st. Duckling, .... May ist to December 1st. Fowl, .... All the year. . All the year. Guinea Fowl, All the year Peacock, .... All the year. Pigeon, .... All the year. Pigeon, stall fed, . , All the year. Pullet, .... All the year. Squab, .... All the year. Turkey, All the year. 1 R. I., All the year; best in September to March Spring, . All the year; best September 1 to Dec. 1 Suckling Pig, Al! the year. SEASONS. Game. Antelope and Venison, Bear, Doe Birds, Doe Lark, Doe Rail Chopper, or Sora, Doe Reed Birds, Doe Rice Birds, Doe Small Birds, Buffalo, Duck, all kinds, Black Head, Ruddy Duck, Canvas Back. Mallard, Red Head, Teal, Blue Wing, Green, Widgeon, Wood, Geese Brant, Wild, Grouse, or Prairie Hen, Spruce, Hare — American, English, Partridge, Pheasants, Pigeons, Plovers — Grass, Golden, Yellow Legs, Ptarmigans, . Quail, . Rabbits, Robins, . Snipe — Curlew, English, Jersey, Sand, Squabs, wild, Squirrel, Turkey, wild, Woodcock, August 1 5th to November 1 5th. November 1st to February 1st. May 1st to September 1st. October 1st to January 1st. September 1st. September 1st to January 1st. September 1st to April 1st. September 1st to April 1st. November istto February 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st lo May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. September 1st to May 1st. August 15th to February 1 st. September 1st to January 1st. November 1st to January 1st. September 1st to March 1st. August 15th to February 1st. October 1st to February 1st. j March 1st to July 1st, and I September 1st to December 1st. September 1st to January 1st. September 1st to January 1st. September 1st to January 1st. February 1st to May 1st. November 1st to February 1st. November 1st to January 1st. (Law against selling ) September 1st to January 1 st. September 1st to January 1st. September 1st to January 1st. September 1st to January 1 st. September 1st to January i st. August 1st to February 1st. November 1st to May 1 st. August 15th to February 1st. SEASONS. Meat. Beef, Kid, Lamb — Spring, Yearling, Mutton, Pig, • Veal, All the year; best Nov. 1st to March 1st. March ist to September ist. January ist to July 1st. All the year; best Aug. ist to Nov. 1st. All the year; best Nov. ist to April ist. All the year; best Oct. 1st to April ist. All the year; best Nov. 1st to July 1st. Vegetables. Artichoke, Jerusalem, Asparagus — Hot House, Outdoor, Green, Tips, White, Beans — Broad, Lima, String, . Wax and Butter, Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage — Green Kale, Red, Savoy, White, Cardon, Carrot Cauliflower, . Celery Knobs — Celeriac, Soup, Corn, Cranberries, . Cucumbers, Hot House, Small Pickles, Egg Plant, . Garlic — Dry, Herbs — Basil, Bay Leaves, dry, Burnet, Chervil, Hot House. Chives, I lot I louse, All the year. (From Europe). October 1st to May ist. January 1st to Februarv 15th. Februarv 15th to July 1st. February 15th to July ist. February 15th to July ist. February 15th to July ist. August 1st to October 15th. August ist to November ist. Ali the year. February ist to November 15th. All the year; new in April. November ist to March 15th. January 1st to May 1st. August I 5th to May 1st. August I 5th to May 1st. All the year; new in February. January ist to March ist. All the year; new in April. All the year. July 1 5th to May ist. All" the year. June 1 5th to September 1st. October 1st to May ist. All the year. October ist to July 1st. August 15th to October 15th. All the year. All the vcar; new in July. August ist to November 1st. All the year. June ist to October ist. All the year. October ist to June ist. All the year. October 1st to June 1st. xii Herbs — Fennel, SEASONS. August ist to November 1st. Marjoram, August ist to November ist. Mint, All the year. Hot House, October 1st to June 1st. Parsley, All the year. Rosemary, August ist to November ist. Savory, August ist to November ist. Tarragon, All the year. Hot House, October ist to June 1st. Thyme, August ist to November ist. Hops, May 15th to June 15th. Kohl Rabi, July ist to December ist. Leeks, All the year. Mushrooms — Cultivated, All the year. Field, . { April ist to July ist, and from ( September ist to December ist. Girolles, . September ist to November 15th. Morils, September ist to November 15th. Okra or Gombo, j All the year from South; December I ist to July ist. Onions, All the year. Bermuda, January 15th to July 15th. Small, July 1st to June ist. Oyster Plant. August 1st to June 1st. Parsnips, August ist to June 1st. Peas — South, January ist to July 1st. Long Island, . July ist to November ist. Peppers, All the year. From the South, January 1st to June ist. Potatoes, All the year. From South, April. Long Island, July ist to August 15th. Bermuda, January 15th to July ist. Sweet, . August 1st to May 1st. Pumpkins, . . , September ist to February 15th. Radishes — Black, April ist to January 1st. Horse, All the year, Red. All the year. White or Gray, April 15th to November 15th. Rhubarb. February 1st to July 1st. Salad — Monk's Beard, December 1st to April ist. Celery, August ist to April 1st. Chicory, July ist to April ist. Fetticus, . February ist to May ist. Dandelion, Lecembcr ist to June ist. Bscarolle, August 1st to April ist. Lettuce, All the year. Romaine, May ist to December 1st. Watercress, All' the year. Shallots, All the year; new in July. SEASONS. Sorrel, Hot House, Spinach, Squash — Summer White, Yellow, Winter Hubbard, Marron, Tomatoes, From South, Hot House, Turnip — Rutabaga, Teltow, . White, All the year. November ist to June 1st. All the year. July ist to October 15th. July ist to October 15th. September ist to March 15th. September ist to March 15th. All the year. March 1st to August 1st. November 1st to March 1st. June ist to May 1st. October ist to January ist. All the year; new in June, July, August, and September. Fruit. Alligator Pears, Apples, Apricots, Bananas, Barberries, Blackberries, Cherries, Chestnuts, Cocoanuts, , Currants (Black and Red), Ginger, Gooseberries, Grapes— Brighton, Concord, 1 Delaware, Haute ford, 1 lot House, „ [ves, Iona, Malaga, Muscatel, Niagara, . Pokington, Rebecca, Tokay, Grape Fruit, or Shaddock, . Huckleberries, Lemons, Limes, July 1st to October 1st. All the year. July 15th to August 15th. All the year. October 1st to November 15th. July 1st to August 15th. .May ist to July 1 5th. November ist to March ist. All the year. July ist to August 15th. October 15th. July 1 5th to January ist. July ist. July ist to December 1st. July 15th to November 1 $th. July 1st to October 1 5th. July 1st to December 1st. February 1st to December 15th. July 1st to December 1st. July ist to December ist. September 1st to April ist. July ist to December 1st. July ist to December ist. July 1st to December 1st. July 15th to November 15th. July 15th to December ist. October 1st to July 1st. August ist to September 15th. June 15th to September 1st. All the year. All the year. SEASONS. Mangoes, Melon- — Canteloup, Musk, Spanish, . Water, Nectarines, Oranges — Florida, Mandarines, Spanish, Peaches, Hot House, Pears, Pineapples, . Plums, . Persimmons, Pomegranates, Quinces, Raspberries, Strawberries, Hot House, Tamarinds, . Tangerines, VVintergreen, July ist to October ist. July 15th to October 15th, July 15th to October 15th. November ist. July ist to October ist. July ist to September ist. November 1st to March 1st. December 1st to March ist. All the year. July ist to October 15th. May 1st to July 1st. July 15th to March ist. All the year. July ist to October ist. October 1st to November 15th. December 1st to February 1st. September 1st to December 1st. June ist to September ist. March ist to July ist. January ist to March ist. July ist to October ist. November 1st to February ist. July 1st to January 1st. Market List. Beef. Snort Loin, Hips, Shoulders, Top Ends, Chucks, Ribs, Butts, . Fresh Rum)), . Fresh Briskets, Shins, Kidneys, Tongues, Tails, . Marrow Bones, Ox Pal Tenderloin, Livers, Suet, Smoked Beef ( lorned Bee! Ruin)), Corned Beef Plate, . Cornell Beef Brisket, Spiced Corned Beef, Smoked Beef Tongues, Salted Beef Tongues, MARKET LIST. Veal. Side, . Backs, Hind Quarter, Legs, Shoulder, Breast, Loins, Knuckles, Head, Liver, , Feet, . Kidneys Brains, Sweetbreads for broiling, Sweetbreads for Croquettes, Palates. Mutton. Backs, Saddle ( English Cut) Saddle, Hind, Legs, Shoulder, Breast, . Kidneys, Sheep's Trotters, Suet. MARKET LIST ON HAND Lamb. Lamb, Backs, Legs, Saddle, Breast, . Shoulder, Feet, Fries, . . . . Kidneys, . I Spring Lamb, whole, Backs, Spring Lamb, Legs, Spring Lamb, Saddle, Spring Lamb, Breast, Spring Lamb, . Shoulder, Spring Land), Provisions. Smoked I lams, Fresh Hams, . Virginia I lams, Westphalia, Corned, Bacon No. I, . Bacon No. 2, Fresh Loin of Pork, Country Loin of Pork, . Pork Tenderloin, Larding Pork, Salt Pork, Pickled Lamb Tongues, MARKET LIST. PROVISIONS— Continued. Country Sausage, Deerfoot Sausage, Helps Sausage, Blood pudding, Audinillette, Sausage Meat, Lyons Sausage, Bologna, Smoked Shoulders- Fresh Shoulders, Honeycombed Tripe, Tripe No. 2, Pigs' Feet Pickled, Pigs' Feet Parboiled, Pigs' Jowls, Suckling Pigs, Crepinette, Head Chucks, Snails, Goose Breasts (smoked) . Lard. Poultry. Roasting Chicken, Broiling Chicken, large. Broiling Chicken, small, Squab Chicken, Capon, Fowl Roasting Turkey No. I, Roasting Turkey No. 2, . MARKET LIST. ON HAND PO U LTRY— Continued. Broiling spring, . Boiling, .... Boston geese, Mongol geese, Ducks, Spring Ducklings, Spring Ducklings, celery fed Pigeons, .... Squabs, Guinea 1 lens, . Game. Canvasback Ducks, Red Head, Mallard, Blackhead, Wood, Brandt Widgeons, . Ruddy I"eal Partridges, American, Partridges, English, Chicken grouse, Grouse, Woodcocks, Ptarmigan, . English Snipe, Yellow Leg Snipe, Sand Snipe, Plover, MARKET LIST. GAME— Continued. Plover, Golden, Quail Doe Birds, Rail Birds, . Reed Birds, . Wild Turkeys, . English Pheasant, Rabbits, Venison Leg, . Venison Saddle, . Venison Hind Quarter. Bear, .... Fish—Fresh. Angelfish Bass, Black, Bass, Sea, Bass Striped, Blackfish, Bluefish, Buttcrfish, Carp, . Codfish, live, , Codfish steak, Codfish tongues, Eels, . s' Legs, Erostfish, ll.uldock, Halibut, 1 [alibut chicken, MARKET LIST. FISH — Continued. Herrings, King'fish, Mackerel — Spanish, Mackerel — Fresh, Muscallonge, . Perch Pickerel, . Pike Pompano, Porgies, Red Snapper . Salmon, Shad, Shad Roe, . Sheepshead, Skatefish, Smelts, Trout, Brook, Trout, Canadian, Trout, Salmon. Turbot, . Weak fish, . White-fish. Whitebait. . Smoked and Fish. Salted Smoked 1 1 erring, Smoked Finnan I laddie, Smoked Salmon, Smoked Whitefish, Salted Mackerel, Dry Codfish, MARKET LIST. Shellfish, Etc. Crayfish, Crabs, Hard, Crabs, Oyster, Crabs, Soft, . Crabs, Meat, . Lobsters, Prawn, Scallops, Shrimp, . Terrapin Counts, . Terrapin Shorts, Turtle, Oysters, Clams, Etc. Bluepoints, Rockaway, . . . . Shinnecocks, . Lynnhaven, . . . . Shrewsburys, . Cape Cods, . Box Oysters, Clams, Little Necks, Clams* Chowder, Clams, Medium, . Clams, Large, . Clams, Soft, Soups Kettner writes about Soup: "There has been a good deal of needless contro- versy about Soup, some people finding- in it a dinner in itself, and some refusing it as a weak wash, fit only for babies and invalids. Grimod dc la Rcynicrc said that Soup is to a dinner what a portico is to a palace, or an overture is to an opera. It is not only the commencement of the feast, but should give an idea of what is to follow." Another epicure, no less than Marquis de Cussy, dubs Soup a sort of preface to the dinner, and expresses his opinion that a good work can do without a preface. Undoubtedly the majority of opinions would be against the Marquis, for with the Soup not only docs the feast begin, but the stomach receives a little encour- aging stimulation which prepares it for the more elaborate task about to follow. Admitting this, however, Kettner, continues, "It is quite true, however, that to serve a purpose (stomach stimulating), we do not require much weight of matter, and the plain rule to follow is: for a great dinner the Soups should be as light as possible, just enough to give a fillip; for a little dinner, with only one or two dishes, they may be as rich and satisfying as you please. De Cussy is quite in accord here with Thomas Walker, who maintained that if he gave turtle Soup to his guests they would want but little else — 'whitebait and a grouse.' " Soup should always be sent to the table in a metal or earthenware tureen, tightly covered. A metal ladle is best for serving and it should be separate from the tureen. Tureens with holes cut in the lids for the ladle handle, let out the heat and steam. The following directions may be of value to the soup maker: Bring the cold water in the stockpot with the meat and bones to the boil slowlv, and let it simmer for hours, never boiling, and never ceasing to simmer. Skim off every bit of scum and fat, for which purpose it is as well to use a stockpot with a faucet at the bottom. Beware of using too much salt; a little is advisable, as it causes the scum to rise, but as the liquid boils down, the proportion of salt is increased in consequence, because the water flies off in steam, but the salt remains. Soft water is the best for making Soup. Beef Tea. Procure some lean rump of beef, remove every particle of fat, cut into small pieces and place in a champagne bottle, cork and tie down tightly. Place the bottle in a deep saucepan of cold water, reaching two-thirds of the way to the top of the bottle, place the pan on a slow fire, and allow it to come slowly to a boil. After boiling for fifteen minutes, take out the bottle, pour out the liquor, and use as required. SOUPS. Beef Jelly. Prepare some beef tea with very little if any salt, and without adding water. Place an eighth of an ounce of gelatine in a saucepan with a little cold water and soak it ; let it stay there until sufficiently swollen, then place on the fire and boil until dissolved. Take the beef-tea extract when nearly cold, add the gelatine, stir well and allow it to become well set. Bisque of Clams. Place a good knuckle of veal, weighing about a pound and a half, into a soup kettle, with a quart of water, one small onion, a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, and the liquor drained from the clams, and simmer gradually for an hour and a half, skim- ming from time to time. Then strain the soup and again place it in the kettle; rub a couple of tablespoonfuls of butter with an equal amount of flour together and add it to the soup when it is boiling, stirring the while until again boiling. Chop up twenty-five clams very fine and place them in the soup, season, and boil for about five minutes, then add a pint of milk or cream, and remove from the fire immediately, and serve. ue of Crabs. Bisqi Place a dozen live crabs in some cold water with a little salt, and let them soak there for one hour, then hash up a couple of ounces of carrot with an equal quantity of onion, and fry them together with a little butter in a saucepan large enough to hold the crabs, add a little parsley in sprigs, thyme and bay leaf, seasoning with salt, a quarter of a bottle of white wine and a little white stock, then cover with the lid and cook for fifteen minutes, after which remove the crabs, strain the broth, and place it one side for twenty minutes, when the top should be poured off. Next, remove the shells from the crabs, taking out the lungs from both sides, and wash each one at a time in some slightlv warmed water, removing the small legs, then drain them and pound to a paste, with about half their quantity of cooked rice, add a little of the juice in which they have been cooked, drain first through a sieve and then through a tammy-cloth, and mix in half a pint of bechamel sauce. Add a little salt and red pepper, and place over the fire just previous to serving, but do not allow it to come to a boil, adding an eighth of a pound of fine butter, and mix with a spoon until entirely melted, and serve with bread crusts tried in butter. Bisque of Crayfish. Procure five or six dozen fresh water crayfish, and boil them without any vinegar in the water. Select two dozen and a half of the finest tails that remain whole, and pound the rest with all the fleshy parts and meat in a mortar, with the flesh from the breasts of two roasted chickens or fowls. Roil the crumb of a couple of French rolls SOUPS. ii in some rich broth ; place this in a mortar with a few yolks of hard boiled eggs, and pound well together, then mix thoroughly with the crayfish and chicken ; put the shells of the fish to boil in a little water or broth, and rub through a fine sieve. Boil a pint and a half of cream, stirring continually so that no scum will arise ; pour this into the soup, seasoning with salt and pepper. Have in readiness two spawn of a lobster well pounded, dilute it with some of the broth, and mix in with the soup, which must be kept hot but without boiling. Soak a few rounds of bread and lay them at the bottom of a tureen, pour the bisque over them, place the tails which have been placed one side, over the soup, and serve very hot. Bisque of Lobster. Remove the meat of a lobster from the shell, and cut the tender pieces into quarter inch dice ; put the ends of the claw-meat and any tough portions in a sauce- pan with the bones of the body and a little cold water, and boil for twenty minutes, adding a little water from time to time as may be necessary. Put the coral to dry in a moderate oven, and mix a little flour with some cold milk, and stir into the milk, which should be boiling, stirring over the fire for ten minutes ; then strain the water from the bones and other parts, mix it with the milk, add a little butter, salt, pepper and cayenne to taste, and rub the dry coral through a fine hair sieve, putting enough into the soup to make it a bright pink color. Place the green fat and lobster dice in a soup tureen, strain the boiling soup over them and serve at once. Bisque of Oysters. Place about thirty medium sized oysters in a saucepan together with their own juice, and poach them over a hot fire, after which drain them well. Then frv a shallot colorless in some butter together with an onion, sprinkle over them a little curry and add some of the oyster juice, seasoning with salt and red pepper ; pound the oysters to a good firm paste, moistening them with a little of their juice, and strain through a fine tammy-cloth ; warm them over the fire, but do not let them boil; add a small quantity of thickening of potato flour mixed with a little water, (about a tablespoonful for each quart of the mixture), and when about to serve, incorporate some cream and fine butter, garnishing with some chopped oysters and mushrooms, mixed with bread crumbs and herbs ; add a little seasoning of salt, pepper and nut- meg, some raw egan with two table- spoonfuls of bechamel sauce and half a pint of fowl broth and stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until done, taking care that the liquor does not boil. Rub the whole through a fine sieve, warm it without boiling, and serve in a tureen with small pieces of toasted bread. Chicken Soup with Leeks. Cut about a quarter of a chicken into slices ; brown for ten minutes in a sauce- pan with an ounce of butter and half a chopped onion ; moisten with three pints of consomme, and add three leeks cut in pieces, a garnished bunch of parsley, half a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Serve after boiling thirty minute, and removing the parsley. Chiffonnade Soup. Wash, drain, and chop very fine one quart of sorrel, with the green leaves of a lettuce-head. Brown in a saucepan, with two ounces of butter and a sliced onions seasoning with salt and pepper. Moisten with three pints of white broth, a handful of peas, string beans, and asparagus tops, and boil for three-quarters of an hour with one ounce of butter. Serve with slices of toasted bread. Clam Soup. Prepare the clams same as for steamed clams. Take one quart of tin- clam liquor, after it has settled, place it in a saucepan, boil, and remove the scum ; then add one pint of boiling water, and season with parsley, salt, pepper, cayenne and onion. Put in the hard part of the clams, which have been previously removed, and lei it simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, then strain and boil once more, and while it is boiling thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of flour, cooked in one table- SOUPS. 27 spoonful of butter. Pour one pint of hot cream or milk, and the soft part of the clams, and when they are all done place them on a dish, and serve with crackers and pickles. Clear Soup. Skim off the fat from two quarts of stock, pour it into a saucepan, and put in an equal quantity of prepared carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, one-fourth pound of scraped beef, a few peppercorns, a lump of salt, and the whites and shells of two eggs. Stand the saucepan over the fire, whip the contents till boiling, then stop whipping, and let simmer for fifteen minutes over a moderate fire. Strain the soup first through a fine hair sieve, then two or three times through a jelly bag, till it is quite clear. If desired, wine may be added to the soup before serving. Clear Soup with Nudels. Prepare the desired quantity of clear broth from beef, and skim it well. Peel and slice some carrots, onions and green leeks, put them into a stewpan with a good sized lump of butter and one young cabbage cut into thin shreds, cover with the lid, and put them over ;i very slow fire, where they may stew gently until quite tender, shaking the pan now and then. When the vegetables are cooked put them into the soup, and boil the whole gently for thirty minutes or so. Make the nudels as fol- lows: Slightly warm one-fourth pound of butter and beat it until creamy, then work- in with it slowly and smoothly three heaping tablespoonfuls of flour and three well beaten eggs. Strain the soup and return it to the saucepan; when it boils up again put in small quantities of the paste, moulding them into round balls with the hands, which should be constantly dipped in water, and let it simmer for an hour or so longer. When ready pour the soup into a tureen and serve. Colbert Soup. Cut the hearts from four or five heads of celery, blanch them well, put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter, and fry; then pour in some clear soup and boil it. Bi at the yolks of three eggs with one teacupful of cream, move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and stir in the eggs and the cream quickly. Poach some eggs, put them into a soup tureen, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Corn and Tomato Soup. Cut two pounds of beef into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with three quarts of water, and boil gently at one side of the fire for two hours. Skim the liquor, put in several large tomatoes, and boil them for an hour. When cooked, drain and pass the tomatoes through a fine sieve, and return them to the soup. Boil a few ears of corn in salted water ; when cooked, free the corn from the cob and put 28 SOUPS. it in the soup ; also put in a small lump of butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Boil the soup again, pour it into a soup tureen, and serve with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Crab Soup. Open some small uncooked crabs, and remove the deadman's fingers and sand- bags. Cut the crabs in two, parboil and extract the meat from the claws, and remove the fat from the back of the shells. Place some ripe tomatoes in a basin, scald and skin them, and squeeze the pulp through a colander, keeping back the seeds. Pour boiling water over the seeds and juice of the tomatoes and strain. Put in a saucepan one clove of garlic, one onion, one tablespoonful of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of lard, and the pulp of the tomatoes and let it stew a short time. Put the meat from the claws of the crab, and lastly the fat into the soup, season with sweet marjoram, parsley, lemon, salt, and black and red pepper. Pour in the water in which the seeds were scalded, simmer for one hour and thicken with breadcrumbs. Croute-Au-Pot. Cut two carrots and one turnip into round slices and add to these a few short pieces of celery stalks and a little white cabbage. Stew these for a few minutes in a covered stewpan and add one heaping tablespoonful of butter. As soon as the veg- etables are beginning to take color pour over them three pints of broth, half a table- spoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Boil this slowly for one-half hour or more, and then pour into a hot tureen in which a few pieces of toasted bread or rolls have been previously placed. Serve very hot. Duchess Soup. Put two large, sliced onions into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, and fry them for eight minutes. Sift in two tablespoonfuls of Hour, and fry it for three minutes, stirring well to prevent its burning; then pour in slowly one quart of boiling milk, season to taste with pepper and salt, and stir over the fire for fifteen minutes. Strain the above mixture, put it back into the saucepan, add two table- spoonfuls of grated cheese, and place it over the fire. Beat three eggs, with a little salt and pepper, then pour them through a strainer into the soup. Move the sauce- pan to the side of the fire, and stir the contents for a few minutes. Turn the soup into a tureen, and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast. Ducks' Giblet Soup. Take three or four lots of duck's giblets, scald, clean, cut them into pieces, and put in a stewpan ; add three quarts of water, a pound and a half of gfravy beef, two SOUPS. 29 onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and the rind of half a lemon, and simmer until the gizzards are soft. Strain the broth, add some slices of onion fried brown in butter, mix in sufficient flour to thicken the soup, and stir over the fire a few minutes until it boils. Strain, skim and pour the soup into a tureen, put back the piece of lemon peel, and add two teaspoonfuls of catsup and two wineglassfuls of Madeira wine, and serve with toasted bread cut into dice. Farmer's Soup. Thoroughlv clean a bullock's head, break the bones and cut the meat into small pieces. Put them in a large pan with some bacon fat, and fry them until lightly browned. Chop finely two carrots, a root of celery, one turnip, two lettuces, half a cabbage and a few French beans ; put them in with the onions and leek, and cook them over a slow fire until the moisture has evaporated. Blanch one pound of raw ham, then put it in with the vegetables, and pour over some broth. When boiling, move the pan to the side of the fire, and let the broth simmer for thirty minutes or so. Then put in one breakfast cupful of minced potatoes, and boil them gently until . nearly cooked, and then put in two shredded lettuces, a handful of shredded sorrel, and one pinch of chopped chervil. Finish cooking the soup, then remove the ham. Put some slices of toasted bread into the soup tureen, pour in the soup and serve. Fish Soup. Melt in a stewpan on the fire two ounces of butter, put in a couple of sliced car- rots and a sliced onion, and fry them brown, then add one quart of water, a sprig- of thyme, two or three laurel leaves, three or four cloves, a dessertspoonful of sugar ami half a pint of shrimps: boil until the carrots are quite soft, then add any cold fish, with the bones, and boil for twenty minutes. Toast some small pieces of bread and put them in the tureen; add half a glass of white wine to the soup, strain it over them and serve. Flemish Soup. Put an equal quantity of carrots, onions and turnips cut into small pieces in a saucepan, with a head of lettuce, two leeks, a head of endive, a little chervil and a lump of butter, one-half pint of either mutton or beef broth; boil all gently till tender. Stirring now and then, then pour in two quarts of boiling broth, season it with pepper, salt and sugar and let it simmer for two hours. Beat the yolks of three eggs with one-half pint of cream, stir it in with the soup, turn into a tureen and serve. Game Soup. Put the carcasses and remains of any cold cooked game into a stewpan with two or three peeled carrots and turnips, a bunch of sweet heibs, salt and pepper to taste. and a moderate quantity of spires. Cover the whole with plenty of stock and 3 o SOUPS. simmer gently for three or four hours. When sufficiently boiled strain the liquor into a basin, pick off all the meat that can be got from the bones and pound it in a mor- tar, soak half its bulk of breadcrumbs in a little of the liquor, and when soft mix them with the meat. Pass the mixture through a fine hair sieve, put in a saucepan with the strained liquor, add more seasoning if necessary and boil. Beat the yolks of two eggs and a wineglassful of sherry, strain and stir in with the soup, first moving the saucepan to the side of the fire. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of bread fried in butter. Gourmet's Soup. Put a large knuckle of veal into a saucepan or stockpot, together with two roasted fowls and any beef bones that may be at hand, pour in ten pints of beef stock and boil for ten minutes; carefully skim off all the scum, prepare and add the desired quantities of any vegetables that may be in season and a little pepper, and boil for five hours, by which time the liquor should be reduced to about four quarts; then skim off the fat, remove the meat and bones, clarify with the white of beaten egg which has been beaten with a small quantity of beef stock, and boil for twenty minutes longer. Strain through a cloth into another saucepan, and add the red part of a carrot and a turnip, cut with a vegetable cutter into columns and afterward into slices about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, also two heads of celery and two leeks cut into slices, all these having been previously blanched; add also a small quantity each of sorrel and chervil, and two lettuces cut up into pieces, and boil all for another hour; then put in a little sugar, and finallv about three tablcspoonfuls of blanched asparagus. Place some small croutons of fried bread or pieces of toast at the bottom of a soup tureen, pour over the boiling soup and serve. Green Pea Soup. Put four quarts of freshly shelled green peas into a stewpan with a little salt, a small onion, a few sprigs of mint and parsley tied together, and water to cover. Boil the peas until tender, then strain, remove the onion, mint and parsley, and rub the peas through a fine hair sieve into a basin. Have ready boiling as much clear stock as will make the required quantity of soup, from which all the fat has been removed, put in the peas, with about one ounce of butter and one or two teaspoonfuls ot spinach green to give it a brighter color, and boil up again, then turn it into a soup tureen and serve with sippets of toast. Herb Soup with Parmesan Cheese. Wash in plenty of water a head of young celery, one handful each of sorrel, i hervil and chives, a few sprigs of parsley, and a small quantity «>t tarragon; drain the herbs thoroughly and cut them into pieces. Put them in a saucepan with three SOUPS. 3' pints of clear broth, and boil gently till tender. Cut some slices of French rolls into pieces about the size of a quarter of a dollar, dip them in hot butter, and roll in finely grated Parmesan cheese, giving them a good coating. Spread a sheet of white paper over a baking tin, arrange the pieces of bread on top, and bake until lightly browned; then add them to the soup when in the tureen. Hunter's Soup. Peel and cut into thin slices an equal quantity of carrots and onions, put them into a saucepan with a head of celery that has been washed and cut into small pieces, about two ounces of rather lean ham or bacon, a bunch of parsley and a small lump of butter. Fry all these until lightly browned, then dredge in a liberal quantity of flour and fry that also until browned. Stir in one pint of red wine and two quarts of broth, leave it over the fire until boiling, then move it to the side and let simmer. Clean and lav three partridges on a roasting pan and roast them in a brisk oven. basting well with butter. When the partridges are cooked, cut the flesh off the bones into nice equal-sized pieces. Break the bones into small pieces, put them into the soup, boil quicklv for twenty minutes, then strain it through a fine hair sieve. Season the soup with salt and pepper, then return it to the saucepan with the pieces of par- tridge meat, and allow it to get thoroughly hot at the side of the fire, but do not let it boil again; then turn it into a soup tureen and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Italian Soup. After a cow-heel has been used for making jelly, cut the flesh off into small pieces. Put one-half teacupful of sage into a stewpan with sufficient water to cook it, and boil until dissolved. Take a sufficient quantity of clear stock to make the soup, and place it in a saucepan over the fire until boiling. Warm the pieces of meat in the soup, put the sago at the bottom of a soup-tureen with one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, pour the hot soup over them and serve with a plate of sippets of toast, or small croutons of bread that have been fried to a delicate brown in butter J' ulienne Soup. Peel some carrots, onions, leeks and turnips and cut them into thin strips of an equal size and length, either straight or scalloped. Cut some heads of celery into pieces the same size. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan. place in the prepared tables and toss over a slow fire for a few minutes. Other vegetables may be added, such as cauliflower, peas or asparagus w hen in season. Pour in over the vege- tables as much clear chicken broth as may bo desired for the soup, and put in any nice pieces of cold roast chicken that may be available. When boiling, move the soup to the side of the fire and let it simmer until the vegetables are tender. Put 32 SOUPS. some thin sippets of toast, or croutons of fried bread into a soup tureen, pour the soup over it and serve. Lamb Soup. Cut a shoulder of lamb into moderately large pieces, place them in a stew pan w itli an onion and a piece of butter ; fry until nicely browned then dredge in a table- spoonful each of flour and curry powder, stir it all over the fire for two minutes, then pour in three quarts of broth, some trimmings of raw ham and a bunch of parsley. When the liquor boils, remove the stewpan to the side of the fire and let it simmer until the meat is cooked. When done, take the pieces of lamb out, pass the cook- ing liquor through a fine hair sieve, place in with it half a pound of boiled rice, and again boil gently for ten minutes. Bone the meat and put it in a soup tureen, thicken the soup with the yolks of three eggs beaten together with a little cream, then strain it through a fine colander over the meat, and serve while hot with sippets of toast or small dice of fried bread in a separate vessel such as a dish or plate. Lark Soup. Boil ten ounces of washed rice in broth till reduced to a puree, adding now and then a little more broth to keep it thin. Singe, draw and clean two dozen larks, fry them in a stewpan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, allow them to cool, then remove their fillets, and trim neatly. With the bones and trimmings of the larks prepare a little stock. When made, ]>ass it through a fine hair sieve into the rice puree. Place the fillets in the sou]), warm them up again, and then pour all into a hot dish. Add one pinch of chopped green mint, and the juice of two oranges and serve. Leek Soup. Mix two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal with a small quantity of cold water, put it in a saucepan, stir in about one quart of boiling mutton broth, adding it bv degrees, then throw in as many leeks as are required, and boil until tender and the liquor is of the consistency of cream. Remove the pan from the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs beaten up in a little of the broth, turn the whole into a tureen and serve. Lettuce Soup. Cool and press out all the water from about two dozen blanched lettuces, cut them down the centres without entirely separating, dust over salt and pepper, and place them in a saucepan with half a pint of veal broth, and the same of rich fowl con- somme, add a small bunch of parsley, a clove, one onion, one carrot, and a little thyme and bay leaf. Cover with a sheet of buttered paper, place the lid on the pan, and boil the lettuce gently for two hours. Take them out, drain on a cloth, cut them into halves, place them in a soup tureen, pour in the strained stock in which they SOUPS. _ 33 were cooked, together with three pints more of boiling broth, and serve with pieces of toast floating on the top. Macaroni Soup. Put one-fourth pound of macaroni into a saucepan with one ounce of butter and an onion stuck with five or six cloves, and boil until the macaroni is quite tender; remove it, drain, place it in a saucepan and pour over two quarts of good broth. Place the pan at the side of the fire and simmer the macaroni gently for about ten minutes, taking care that it docs not break or become pulpy. Add a little grated Parmesan cheese, pour all into a tureen and serve. Macedoine Soup. Line the bottom of a saucepan with some thin slices of ham, then put in an equal quantity of turnips, potatoes and onions, about three of each, and cut up very small ; pour in some stock, season with pepper and salt, and let simmer gently until cooked to a pulp. Pass the soup and vegetables through a fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan, pour in one pint of cream, and stir it by the fire for a few minutes. When ready to be served, pour the soup into a tureen. Milanese Soup. Put into a Stewpan a piece of raw ham with one-half pound of chopped bacon and about one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of haricot brans. Wash a savoy cab- and cut it into fine shreds and put it in with the above ingredients; then pour in three quarts or more of broth and place the stewpan over the fire. Cut up enough celery roots into small pieces to fill a breakfast cup, and alter the broth has boiled for ten minutes, put them in with it. Then put in the stewpan one breakfast cupful of lie ins, an equal amount of green peas and asparagus heads, three-fourths of a pound of unwashed and unbroken rice, two smoked sausages, and one chopped tomato. Move the stewpan to the side of the lire, and allow the contents to simmer until the rice is done. When soft, mix in with the soup a fair quantity of grated Parmesan cheese. Take out the ham and sausage, cut the sausages into small pieces, put them into a soup tureen, pour the soup and vegetables over them and serve, send to the table at the same time a plateful of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Mullagatawny Soup. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a saucepan, add three or four sliced onions and fry them until done. Cut two rabbits into nice sized pieces, put them in with the onions and fry for a few minutes; then pour in three or four pints of clear broth and let it boil gently for an hour. Take the rabbit out of the saucepan, pass the onions and liquor through a fine hair sieve, return them to the stewpan, pour in one quart of broth and boil for an hour longer. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour into 34 SOUPS. frying panwith a little butter and fry it until nicely browned. Stir in gradually suf- ficient broth or water to make a good paste. Stir the curry into the soup; add a little lemon-pickle and let it simmer gently for half an hour, stirring frequently to prevent the flour from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve with it a dish of plain boiled rice. Mussel Soup. Clean thoroughly one-half gallon of mussels, and toss them in a saucepan over a fire until the shells open. Take them out, remove the weeds, etc., put them into a saucepan with one ounce each of butter and flour, and add a little chopped parsley and sweet herbs ; put the pan on the fire, pour in three pints of rich gravy, boil up, remove the pan to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer until the liquor is reduced to half its original quantity. Pour it out into a dish garnished with pieces of fried bread. Serve very hot. Pickled Mussels. Take any quantity of cooked mussels, pick them out of their shells, remove the beards, put them into jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and sprinkle over with salt and pepper. Strain some of their liquor (that is, what comes from them when being cooked) and add to it an equal quantity of vinegar ; fill up the bottles with the liquor, tic them down, let them remain for a day or so, when the mussels will be ready for use. They may be eaten hot by pouring a little of the liquor into a sauce- pan, with some minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, and thickening with a little butter, well rolled in flour. Add the mussels, allow them to remain in it until thoroughly warmed through, and serve. Neapolitan Soup. Cut into rather small pieces, one-fourth of a raw chicken, put them into a sauce- pan with one ounce of butter, one ounce of lean raw ham, half a green pepper, half of a sliced onion and one sliced carrot, and stew gently for ten minutes ; then moisten with three pints of white broth, season with one-half tablespoonful of salt, one tea- spoonful of pepper and add one tablespoonful of raw rice. Let it simmer for tit teen minutes, or until about half-cooked, then put in one ounce of macaroni in small pieces, and half of a tomato. Boil again for ten minutes, and serve with two table- spoonfuls of grated cheese separately. Noodle Soup. Heat well the yolks of four eggs in two tablespoonfuls of water and one salt- spoonful of salt, whip the white of one egg separately, add it to the rest ami sift in gradually, stirring at the same time, a sufficient quantity of finely silted flour to make SOUPS. 35 a stiff paste. When quite smooth lav the paste on a floured board and roll out very thinlv. Cut the paste into diamond-shaped pieces, put them on a cloth and keep them in a warm place until drv. Prepare some nicely flavored clear soup and when it is boiling very fast throw in the pieces of paste and boil for ten to fifteen minutes. Pour the soup in a soup tureen and serve while very hot, with a plate of Parmesan cheese. Okra Soup. Cut in slices a quarter of a pound of pork, put it in a frvingpan, fry gently for a few minutes and add a sliced onion and one quart of green okra pods cut into small pieces. Put the lid on and fry the okras for thirty minutes. In the meantime cut the meat from a cold roast fowl, place the bones in a saucepan with a quart of water and boil. Squeeze out all the pork fat from the okras and onions and place these in the saucepan with the bones. Put three tablcspoonfuls of flour in the pan with the pork fat, and when it is a rich brown add it to the bones in the saucepan; cover over the pot and simmer gently for three hours. Strain through a fine sieve into another saucepan, pour in two quarts of stock and add the fowl meat cut in pieces and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, turn the whole into a tureen and serve very hot. Onion Soup. Mix one or two tablcspoonfuls of oatmeal in cold water until it is quite smooth, then pour in gradually three pints of liquor in which a ley' of mutton has been boiled, turn all into a stewpan with several peeled and chopped onions, and cook until of the consistency of cream, or leave out the oatmeal, substitute wheat flour, and stir it into the soup while boiling; a few minutes before serving add the yolks of two or three removing the pan from the fire before putting them in. Sp; tanish Onion Soup. Peel three large Spanish onions, cut and separate them into rings, and fry in a little butter until they are of a light brown color and quite tender. Remove and drain on a fine sieve, and put them into a saucepan with two quarts of water. Put the pan on the fire, boil for an hour, stirring frequently, add salt and pepper to taste, add the finely sifted crumb of a roll, and mix thoroughly. Boil for one hour longer, and just before serving add the yolks of two eggs, beaten into two tablcspoonfuls of vinegar and a small quantity of the soup. Mix this in, stirring one way, pour into a tureen and serve. Soup prepared in this way will keep four or five days. Ox-Tail Soup. Cut the tails into joints, wash the pieces, and fry them in a small quantity of butter, next drain the pieces of tail and put them in a stewpan with a ham bone, two or three carrots and onions peeled and sliced, a head of celery, washed and cut in convenient 36 SOUPS. sized pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace and a few cloves and pepper- corns. Cover the contents of the stewpan with water, place it over the fire, and boil and skim until the scum ceases to rise ; then cover and boil slowly until the tail is quite tender. When ready, cut the meat into small pieces ; strain and skim the soup, return it to the stewpan, thicken with flour, and add a wineglassful of sherry wine, and two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. Put in the pieces of meat again and let the soup simmer at the side of the fire for a few minutes longer. Turn the soup into a soup tureen, and serve with sippets of toast, or croutons of fried bread. Oyster Soup. Blanch two or three dozen oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut them into small pieces. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of flour and mix well over the fire, then stir in as much fish stock as will make the required quantity of soup. Continue stirring until it boils, then put in the oysters and their liquor, previously strained, add a moderate quantity of minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste and a little grated nutmeg. Beat the yolks of two eggs in with the juice of half a lemon and strain them ; move the soup off the fire and stir in the beaten eggs. Pour it in a soup tureen, and serve with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Parisian Soup. Cut four leeks into strips, fry them in a little butter at the bottom of a stewpan, pour over one quart of well-seasoned mutton stock, add six or seven boiled potatoes cut into slices, and season with pepper and salt to taste. Boil all together until the leeks are thoroughly done. Fry a few crusts of bread, put them in the tureen and pour the soup over. Parmesan Cheese Quenelle Soup. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, melt it and add sufficient flour to form a roux. Cook this for a few minutes, add more flour to form a soft paste and let it dry for a few minutes longer over the fire, then add the yolk of six eggs, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a small quantity of chicken glaze, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, and lastly a slight coloring of essence of spinach. Poach a small portion of this quenelle mixture to determine its firmness; should it be too thick add a little broth, but if too thin add a little more yolk of egg. Form it into quenelles, put these into a buttered .saute pan, pour over some boiling stock and poach them about fifteen minutes. Pea Soup. Put over the fire in four quarts of water or broth a ham bone, bones of roasted beef or mutton, two heads of celery washed and trimmed, four onions peeled and one and one-half pounds of split peas. Let it boil till the peas are quite soft, take nut SOUPS. 37 the bones and rub peas and vegetables through a sieve, return them to the soup, add salt and pepper to taste and boil it for an hour, skimming it when required. Spinach or green peas added when the bones are taken out improves the soup very much. Peasant Soup. Cut into square-shaped pieces two carrots, an eighth of a cabbage, half a turnip, half an onion, one potato, and two or three leaves of celery. Steam them for ten minutes with two ounces of butter in a stewpan, then moisten with three pints of white broth, and season with one-half tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for thirty minutes, and when ready to serve add six thin slices of bread. Pomeranian Soup. Put one quart of red haricot beans in a saucepan of water with a lump of salt, and boil them until soft. Drain the beans, put half of them on a wire sieve, and rub them through with the back of a wooden spoon. Put the mashed beans into a sauce- pan, and stir in gradually sufficient broth to make the soup, which will be three or four pints. A head of celery cut small and previously boiled in soup will greatly improve the flavor. Put in a small bunch of parsley, and sweet herbs and the whole beans, season to taste with pepper and salt, and boil all for fifteen minutes or a little longer. Remove the bunch of herbs from the soup, pour it into a tureen, and serve it with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Potato Soup. Boil in their skins about a dozen medium-sized potatoes, and when done, peel and pass them through a fine sieve. Put a lump of butter about the size of an egg in a saucepan, let it melt, and add a tablespoonful of arrowroot, and stir over the fire until well browned; then add the potatoes with as much well flavored stock as will be required for the soup; boil all together. When done, pour the soup into a soup tureen, and serve while hot with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Beef Pot-au-feu. About six pounds of any cut of beef will do for this ; tie the meat up with a string, and put it, with the bone, in a very large saucepan filled with sufficient water to cover the meat, then place on fire and boil. As the scum rises skim off with a skimmer. Do not allow the water to quite boil ; this may be regulated by adding a very small quantity of cold water from time to time, which prevents bubbling and allows the scum to rise, then salt to taste, adding a whole pepper, allspice and an onion stuck with cloves, another onion toasted almost black, a leek and three carrots of average size cut in Lengths, two turnips cut in four, and a bunch of herbs, such as bay leaves, thyme and marjoram, a clove of garlic and a small handful of parsley, all tied to- 38 SOUPS. gether into a bundle. The vegetables should be added gradually so as not to check the gentle simmering, which it is needful to keep uninterrupted. Skim again, and leave on stove to simmer for four hours. Strain and skim before serving; add a little sugar, and more salt to taste, make very hot and pour into a soup-tureen over small slices of toasted bread without crusts. Vegetables may be added or not, according to taste. French Pot-au-Feu. Melt in a large saucepan a good-sized lump of butter, and place in some pieces of meat (almost any kind of trimmings from joints will do), which have been well washed or an old fowl or rabbit. Place the lid on the pan and shake the contents over a fire for a few minutes, then move it to one side and pour in some boiling water, judging the quantity by that of the meat, and simmer gently at the edge of the fire for three or four hours, when some vegetables may be added, such as carrots, turnip, leeks, onions, celery, etc., all nicely pared ; season well, letting the whole stew until the vegetables have become quite tender, a bunch of sweet herbs tied in a bag should be added. When done, take out the vegetables and place them in a soup tureen, straining the liquor through a fine sieve over them, and serve with a plate of sippets of toast. Princess Soup. Separate the meat from the bones of a cold roasted fowl, chop the meat, place it in a mortar, and pound it well. Put the bones and trimmings of the fowl into a saucepan with one pint of boiling veal stock, and boil for half an hour. Peel and cut into slices four large cucumbers ; put one-fourth pound of butter in a stewpan to melt ; then put in two or three sliced onions, one-half pound of lean ham, one or two sprigs of basil, two bay leaves and the sliced cucumbers. Fry them over a brisk fire for a few minutes, then pour in one pint of broth, and let it simmer for half an hour; add the pounded fowl, four tablespoonfuls of sago, and four tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir until well mixed; pour in the broth from the chicken bones, and boil the whole gently for twenty minutes. Pass the soup through a fine hair sieve into another stewpan, and stir it over the fire until boiling ; pour in one quart of boiling milk, skim it, and season with salt and one teaspoonful of sugar. Put the slices of cucumbers into a soup tureen with one-half pint of boiled green peas and one teacup- ful of thick cream, pour in the soup, stir until well mixed, and then serve it. Should the soup be too thick, add a little more milk of broth before turning it into the tureen. Quenelle Soup. Pour oik- teacupful of water into a saucepan, set it over the fire, add a small lump of butter and a pinch of salt, stir well until it boils, add sufficient flour to form a fairly thick paste, turn it out on to a dish, and stand it on a cool place until cold. Cut one- half pound of lean veal into small pieces and pound them thoroughly in a mortar, SOUPS. 39 adding by degrees two ounces of the above paste, and three or four ounces of butter; beat well together, then add the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, and season to taste with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Rub the whole through a fine hair sieve, adding a little cream, and with the aid of two teaspoons form the mass into quenelles. Place them side by side in a saucepan, pour in carefully sufficient boiling stock to cover them, and cook gently for a few minutes. Pour the necessary quantity of well flavored stock or broth into a tureen, add the quenelles and serve hot. The stock in which they were cooked may also be poured in if desired. Ricc-and-Pea Soup. Wash thoroughly one tcacupful of rice, put it into a saucepan with one pint of white stock, and allow it to boil gently until it is very tender. Put one-half pint of young green peas into another saucepan with one pint of white stock and stew them until tender. When both the above vegetables are cooked, stir them together and add as much more stock as will make the required quantity of soup; when boiling move the pan to the side of the fire, and stir in quickly the yolk of an egg that has been beaten up with one pint of cream. Season to the taste with salt and pepper, pour the sou]) into a soup tureen, and serve it with a plateful of sippets of toast or croutons of bread fried in butter to a delicate brown. Ricc-and- Tomato Soup. Put one-half pound of well washed rice into a saucepan with two quarts of vege- table stock, and boil the whole until tender. When the rice is cooked, move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and mix in the contents of a can of tomatoes and one ounce oi butter. Tour the soup into a tureen, and serve it with sippets of toast or croutons of bread that have been fried in butter. Russian fulienne Soup. Cut into strips one celery root, one carrot, one turnip, one leek, two onions and a small cabbage, and have ready; also cut up a quantity of mushrooms equal in bulk to all the other vegetables. Put the leek and onions into a saucepan with a small lump of butter, and fry them; do not, however, let them take a color. Then put in tin- other vegetables, together with the mushrooms, and cook gently until the moisture of tin: latter is reduced; pour over sufficient rich broth to moisten, reduce this to a . pour over three or four quarts of boiling broth, remove the saucepan to the side of the fill-, and allow the contents to simmer gently for an hour and a hall. Mix well, stir in a little finely chopped fennel, and strain in enough sour cream to thicken; turn the soup into a tun-en, and serve with rissoles, croquettes or meat patties. This latter is strictly the Russian way of serving this soup. 4 o SOUPS. Sago Soup. Wash one-fourth pound of sago, and boil it for one hour in plenty of water, ad- ding a small piece of stick cinnamon, the rind of one lemon, and a pinch of salt. At the end of that time mix with the sago three or four slices of lemon, sufficient red wine to make the required quantity of soup, and sugar to taste. Stir the soup over the fire until boiling, then remove the lemon-peel and cinnamon. Sprinkle some powdered sugar and cinnamon in with the soup and serve it. Sanitary Soup. Trim off the exterior leaves of three large lettuces, wash the remainder and cut them into fine shreds. Wash and shred a small quantity of beetroot leaves, one handful each of chervil and celery leaves, and about two handfuls of sorrel leaves. Put two leeks and one sliced onion into a saucepan with a little butter and toss them over the fire until the butter has melted and commenced to boil ; then throw in the beetroot, celery and lettuce leaves and fry them for ten minutes ; add the sorrel and chervil, pour in two quarts of broth, boil it for fifteen minutes, then move the sauce- pan to the side of the fire and skim off all the fat. Put some thin slices of bread into a soup tureen, soak them with a little of the soup for a few minutes, then pour in the remainder and serve. Solferino Soup. Put into a saucepan with some clear stock an equal quantity each of new pota- toes, string and haricot beans, young carrots and green peas ; add a little chopped celery, parsley and chives. Let the soup simmer by the side of the fire till the veg- etables are cooked, then put in a little tomato puree and season to taste with pepper and salt. Put some croutons of fried or toasted bread in a soup lureen, pour the soup over them and serve. Sorrel Soup. Wash well one-fourth pound of fresh sorrel and cut it into small pieces. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan and make it hot ; then put in the sorrel and toss it over the fire for a few minutes. Pour one pint of bechamel sauce over the sorrel, and stew it gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper and any kind of herbs desired. Cut some slices of bread, toast or fry them in butter till lightly browned, and cut them into small squares ; then put them in a soup tureen, pour the soup over them ami serve. Soubise Soup. Put into a saucepan two thinly sliced onions, four thin slices of bread, one-half pint of milk and two pints of water. When boiling, mix with the above ingredients SOUPS. 41 two ounces of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Stew them slowly by the side of the fire until the onions will mash to a pulp. Pass the soup through a fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, and stir it by the side of the fire until thick. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve with sippets of toast. Spanish Soup, Parisian Style. Chop up four large onions and fry them in a little butter. Add a small quantity of sugar, and when the onions are of a light golden color put them into a saucepan with two quarts of warmed broth, a little parsley, and a bay leaf, and boil for eight minutes. Place some thin slices of toast in a tureen, arranging them in layers, sprinkle with pepper, pour the soup over them and serve. Tapioca Soup with Tomatoes. Put six ounces of tapioca into a saucepan, pour over one-half gallon of rich strained broth, boil for a couple of minutes, and move the pan to the side of the fire and simmer gently. Remove the seeds from four or five large tomatoes, put them in a saucepan with a small onion, a small sprig of parsley and a bay leaf tied up with it, also a few peppercorns and salt to taste. Put the saucepan over the fire, reduce the moisture of the tomatoes, rub the whole through a fine hair sieve into the soup, and serve when the tapioca is thoroughly done and dissolved. Terrapin Soup. Put the shells, heads and trimmings of three terrapins into a saucepan with plenty of water and boil them gently for two or three hours, skimming it well the first time it bubbles. When all the good has been extracted from the shells, etc., strain the liquor into a clean saucepan, put in the pieces of terrapin meat and boil them for an hour; the f.it should be added alter the meat has boiled for a short time. At the end oi an hour take out the pieces of terrapin and put them on a dish to cool, strain their liquor into a bowl; put the bones that have been separated from the meat into two quarts oi water until all the gelatine has dissolved, then add the strained liipior, a bunch oi thyme and parsley, one teaspoonful of bruised peppercorns, two cloves, one teaspoon- ful of chopped onion and half a blade of mace, and let it boil for about thirty min- utes longer. Cut the cold meat of the terrapin into small square pieces, strain the soup into a clean saucepan, put in the meat and boil it up. Boil up one quart of cream in another saucepan, put one tablespoonful of flour, a lump of butter the size ol a hen's egg into a saucepan, stir it over the fire until mixed, then pour in the boil- ing cream; strain tin's through a strainer into the soup. The soup should be served as soon as the cream is mixed with it. 42 SOUPS. Mock Terrapin Soup. Chop into small pieces two pounds of roasted or boiled beef, put into a saucepan, pour in orie breakfast cupful each of milk and wine, and add two ounces of butter rolled in flour, two or three tablespoonfuls of made mustard, and a little grated nutmeg. Place the saucepan on the fire, boil for about fifteen or twenty minutes, turn into a tureen and serve. Tomato Soup. Put one quart of tomatoes into a saucepan with one pint of hot water, and bring it to the boil. Rub together two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour and one table- spoonful of butter ; stir this into the boiling mixture, and season. Boil for fifteen minutes in all, and pass it through a fine sieve. Cut off some thin slices of bread, without their crusts, butter them, cut them into dice and plac hem in a pan with their buttered sides up, and brown them in a quick oven. Serve the bread and soup separately. Turnip and Rice Soup. Peel and wash some turnips, and put them in a saucepan with some washed rice, using more turnip than rice. Put in a lump of butter and sufficient water to cook them and allow them to simmer gently until tender. Pass the mixture through a fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan, mix in some milk, and season it with salt and pepper ; stir the mixture over the fire with a wooden spoon, and let it simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes ; then stir in a lump of butter and one-half pint of cream. Turn the soup into a soup tureen, and serve with a plateful of croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast. Turtle Soup from Dried Turtle. Cut into small pieces two pounds of shin of beef, two ounces of lean raw ham, and two pounds of knuckle of veal, and put them into a saucepan or stockpot. Put four ounces of dried turtle into a bowl of cold water, and allow it to soak for fortv- eight hours, changing the water three or four times; then put it into a saucepan of water and simmer very gently for about twenty-four hours. Place the turtle in the saucepan with the other meat, pour in the Liquor in which it simmered; this should be sufficient to make the soup; bring it gently to the boil, skim as required, add two or three onions, one carrot, half a head of celery, one turnip, all cut up into pie sprig each of thyme and marjoram, one tcacupful each of basil and peppercorns, a blade of marc, six or eight cloves, and cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Boil or Simmer gently for eight hours, take out the pieces of turtle, pass the liquor through a fme sieve into another saucepan, allow it to get cold, skim off all the lat, add the whites and shells of three eggs beaten slightly, to clarify, boil up once more, remove SOUPS. 43 the pan to the side of the fire and allow it to stand there for thirty minutes, by which time it should be quite clear. Skim well, strain the liquor through a napkin or very fine sieve into another saucepan, add the turtle, which should have been pressed and cut into convenient-sized pieces, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, salt to taste, boil up once more, turn the whole into a soup tureen and serve. A little caramel may be added should the soup not be dark enough. A wineglassful of Madeira is considered a great improvement. Mock Turtle, French Style. Select a fine fresh calf's head with the skin on, wash it well in warm water, and when well cleared of blood boil it for two hours; then take it up and allow it to get cold. Then cut off in one inch square pieces the fat parts of the head which adhere to the skin, and wash them well in several waters. Pour two quarts of good beef stock slightly seasoned with salt, cayenne and truffles and mushrooms, into the soup pot, add five of six onions, five carrots and five turnips, all cut into slices, a head of celery cut small, two or three shallots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bunch of parsley, three bay leaves, half a dozen cloves, half a dozen allspice, three blades of mace, two slices of lean ham chopped small, three or four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce; let the whole simmer for two hours and then strain through a fine sieve. Put in it the pieces of calf's head, boil it up, and pour it into the tureen together with a little strained lemon juice, two tablespoon- fuls of white wine, and one tablespoonful of brandy. Serve cayenne and thin slices of lemon with it. Preserved Green Turtle Soup. Choose a medium-sized turtle, cut off the head and allow it to bleed for twelve or fourteen hours. Remove the bones by opening the sides, cut the carcass into pieces, and blanch them for three minutes in boiling water. Lift off the top shell and place it in a saucepan, covering it with white broth, a handful of whole peppers, a dozen or so of cloves, half a bunch of thyme, and six bay leaves I all the above spices and herbs being tied up in a piece of cloth). Add a handful of salt, and cook for about an hour. Drain, remove the bones, and cut the flesh in dice. Allow the broth reduced to three-fourths its quantity, then put in the white lean meat, allowing it to cook for ten minutes, and then add the green part of the turtle. Fill some medium-sized vessels with this, and when cold pour hot lard over the tops. A wine- glassful or so of Madeira wine may be added to the broth if desired. Turtle Soup Stock. Prepare and cut up a turtle. Put the pieces of shell in a saucepan over the fire with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and boil for two or three hours, or until the outer edges of the shell are soft. As the water boils away add more, always 44 SOUPS. keeping the shells entirely covered. Cut the soft parts of the shells into pieces about one-half inch square, place them in an earthenware bowl, cover over with a wet napkin, and keep in a cool place until wanted. Place the hard parts of the shells again into water in which it was boiled, put in also one-eighth of the first weight of the turtle of beef bones, and one-sixteenth of the weight of veal bones, or of calf's feet and head as directed for soup, skinning the calf's head. On the top of these in- gredients lay the neck and fins-of the turtle, and the cushions or rounded muscles at top of the turtle fins, unless part of the latter is to be reserved raw for broiling as steaks ; add enough water to cover all, together with two tablespoonfuls of salt, and allow all to boil gently for two hours or more, or until the bones of the fins separate easily from the flesh. Remove any scum which may rise, and keep the soup kettle closely covered. When the fins and cushions are tender, take them out of the stock, separate the flesh from the bones, keeping it in good sized pieces, and put it aside, in a cool place until wanted, in an earthenware vessel covered with a wet cloth. Return the bones to the stock, add to it the proportions usually employed for soup stock, of carrots, turnips, onions, parsley, sweet herbs, whole cloves, mace and peppercorns, and boil gently for five or six hours, keeping the pan closely covered. After the liver, legs, fat and intestines have been soaked in cold water boil them in the stock, the intestines being turned outward like the reversed finger of a glove, and well washed and scraped. When the stock is boiled it should be strained through a folded towel, laid in a colander placed over a large earthenware bowl, until clear. All those parts of the turtle which have been cooked and covered with wet cloths or napkins should now be placed in the bowls and covered with the strained turtle stock ; all the stock remaining should be saved for soup. Most turtle cooks advise leaving out the intestines, chiefly because they are more trouble to prepare than they are worth. Vegetable Soup. Chop finely sufficient onion, carrot and celery in equal proportions to fill five breakfast cups, also one teacupful each of turnip, cabbage and parsnip. The cabbage, parsnip and onion should have been partially boiled for five minutes and then well drained. Put all the vegetables into a saucepan, pour in one quart of stock. and one (juart of boiling water and boil gently until tender; then put in with them one break- fast cupful of tomatoes, one tablcspoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar and one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve. Vermicelli Soup. Put from three to four pounds of knuckle of veal, one and one-half pounds of scrag of mutton and one-half pound of ham, all cut up into small pieces, into a saucepan with one-fourth pound of butter, and an onion stuck with one or two cloves, and fry them over the fire for ten minutes. Put in with the meat a bunch of SOUPS. 45 sweet herbs, one anchovy, two carrots, three or four blades of mace and four heads of celery. Place the lid on the saucepan and stand it over the fire until all the gravy has been extracted from the meat. Drain the gravy into a basin, pour four quarts of water over the meat and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. Strain the soup into another saucepan, add one-fourth pound of vermicelli, ahead of celerv cut into small pieces and a small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt. Put a French roll into a soup tureen, pour a small quantity of the soup on it, let it soak for a few minutes, then pour in the remainder of the soup and serve. Vermicelli, -Queen Style. Blanch the vermicelli in boiling water, them drain it; put it into a saucepan with rich broth, season to taste and let it boil gently until cooked. Beat well the yolks of eight eggs and mix a small quantity of cream with them ; pour them into the soup and stir them by the side of the fire for a few minutes, but do not allow them to boil. Turn the vermicelli into a tureen and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast. Vermicelli Soup with Tomato Puree. Prepare three quarts of fish stock, as for thick soup ; when boiling move it to the side of the fire and let it simmer for half an hour. Make one and one-half pints of fresh tomato puree. Skim the fat off the soup, put in a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs and the tomato puree, then allow it to simmer for twenty minutes longer. Boil gently in salted water one-half pound of vermicelli. Strain the sou]). put in the vermicelli, skim off all the fat and boil up again. Turn the soup into a tureen, and serve. White Soup. Put six pounds of lean gravy beef into a saucepan with one-half gallon of water and stew it gently until all the goodness is extracted, then take the beef out. Put into the saucepan with the liquor six pounds of knuckle of veal, one-fourth pound of ham, four onions and four heads of celerv, all cut into pieces, a few peppercorns and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all these gently for seven or eight hours, skim- ming off all the fat as it rises to the top. Mix with the crumb of two French rolls two ounces of blanched and pounded sweet almonds, put them into a saucepan with one pint of cream and a little stock, boil for ten minutes, then pass them through a silk sieve, using a wooden spoon in the process. Mix the cream and almonds with the soup, then turn it into a tureen and serve. Windsor Soup. Boil three calf's feet for one hour in two quarts of broth and one quart of water ; when done and cold, cut them into pieces, moisten with three or four pints of their own broth, adding a garnished bunch of parsley, one-half wineglassful of 46 SOUPS. Madeira wine, one-half tablespoonful of salt, and a little cayenne pepper. Boil again for ten minutes, then strain through a fine sieve ; darken the soup with a little caramel browning, and when serving add twelve crayfish quenelles. Wine Soup. Put the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites of six into an enameled saucepan and beat them thoroughly, pour in one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of water, add six ounces of loaf sugar, the grated yellow rind and strained juice of a large lemon, and one and one-half pints of white wine. Whisk the soup over a gentle fire till frothed and on the point of boiling, then move it off immediately, turn it into a soup tureen and serve with a plate of small sponge cakes or fancy biscuits. The soup may be served as soon as ready, as the froth will soon go down. Soup with Noques. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan to melt, add four or five ounces of flour and stir it over the fire until nicely browned. Pour in gradually with the flour three quarts of rich broth, continue stirring over the fire until the broth boils, then move the stewpan slightly to the side of the fire. Warm one-half pound of butter in a basin and work it with a spoon until creamy, then mix with it, one at a time, the yolks of five eggs and the whites of two. Beat the butter and eggs until light and frothy, then sift in slowly six ounces of flour, work the whole to a smooth paste, season it with nutmeg and salt and add the whipped whites of two more eggs. Try the consis- tency of the above mixture by poaching a small quantity of it in boiling water, stir in a little flour, if too light, and if too thick then stir in a little butter. Divide the mixture into small equal portions and shape them into round balls. Drop the noques into a saucepan of boiling salted water, give them one boil up, then move the pan to the side of the fire and boil again until firm. Beat the yolks of four eggs with a little cream, skim the fat off the soup, put in the beaten eggs and stir them by the fire till thick. The soup should not boil after the eggs are added. Drain the noques, put them into a soup tureen, strain the soup over them through a fine hair sieve and serve at once. Soup Without Meat. Cut four large onions into slices, put them in a saucepan with one-half pound of butter and toss over the fire for a few minutes. Put in with the onions some celery cut into small pieces, a bunch of chopped parsley and some finely-shredded cabbage lettuces; stir these ingredients over the fire for fifteen minutes, then put in one break- fast cupful of crushed dry biscuits and two quarts of boiling milk and water mixed in equal quantities. Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper and let it simmer by the side of the fire for an hour. Beat two eggs well and stir them in the soup when taken from the lire. Serve with a plateful of sippets of toast. Fish. Anch ovies. These delicious little seafish come principally from the Mediterranean ; those esteemed most highly come from Gorgona. These fish are also found in small shoals along the coast of Great Britain, but there are no specific fisheries for them. They are caught at night by nets, the fish being attracted by lights attached to the boats. To preserve them for exportation, the heads are cut off and the bodies cleaned. They arc then placed in brine, packed in barrels and afterwards put up in bottles for the market. Dutch anchovies may be known by their having the scales removed ; and the French anchovies by their larger size ; and both by the pale tint of their flesh. This peculiar coloring is sometimes counterfeited bv artificial means in sprats or sardines. It would be well to note that the color of the pickle of the best fish on being filtered, is of a clear pink, without sediment ; whereas the inferior sorts are generally turbid and red only when stirred, with also a heavy red sediment. To Serve Anchovies. They must be thoroughly cleaned, boned and trimmed. To open, they should be soaked in cold water for a couple of hours, taken out and dried on a cloth, and the backs divided bv the points of the two thumbs, rather than with a knife, which should never touch them unless it is electro-plated or of silver. Lav the halves neatly on a dish, and garnish with finely chopped white of egg and parsley ; pour salad oil over all. Stuffed Anchovies. Split open some anchovies, wash them well in white wine and bone them. Mince a little cooked fish of any kind, place in a basin with very fine breadcrumbs, and make it into a paste by adding yolk of eggs. Stuff the anchovies with this mixture, dip into frying batter, plunge into a fryingpan of boiling fat and fry to a light color. Take out when done, drain and arrange on the dish, and serve with a garnish of fried parsley. Anchovies with Olives. Thoroughly wash and cut off the fillets of some anchovies, and chop them up very fine with a little parsley and onion ; put the whole into a mortar and pound it well, adding a little cavennc for seasoning. Cut a number of Spanish olives in halves, take out the stones, and fill them with the pounded anchovv mixture. In the mean- 47 4 8 FISH. time cut some small rounds of bread about an inch in thickness and an inch and a half in diameter, scrape out a little from the center of each, put them into a frying- pan with butter, and fry to a nice light golden color ; then take out and drain, and arrange on a napkin spread over a dish ; put an olive in each, serve with a little mavonnaise sauce poured over and around the foot of the croutons of fried bread. Baked Bass, Plain. Scale, wash and thoroughly clean a bass, leaving the head intact, if to be sent to table whole ; then make a stuffing of two cupfuls of breadcrumbs, one teacupful of butter, the rind of a quarter of a lemon minced fine, and two or three sprigs of parsley, green thyme and marjoram. Season this mixture with pepper and salt. Beat up a couple of eggs, a very little water, and mix the stuffing with it. Fill into the fish and sew up when stuffed. Score both sides with a sharp knife "by cutting down to the bone, and put a slice of salt pork, cut thin, into each incision ; then bake in a pan and baste with stock and seasoning. Place a little tomato puree or tomato sauce into the pan with the gravy, after removing the fish, and allow it to come to a boil ; then skim and strain and serve in a tureen with the fish. Care should be taken not to break the fish when transferring it from the pan to the dish. Some con- sider a glass of white wine added to each half pint of sauce an improvement. Boiled Bass. Dress a bass, wash well and drain it, and place in a saucepan of warm water, salted, and set over the fire. When the water boils remove to one side, and simmer gently for twenty minutes, by which time the fish should be quite done. Let it re- main in the liquor until wanted, then take out, drain and place on a napkin spread over a dish, garnish with boiled potatoes and sprigs of parsley and serve. Broiled Bass. Clean a bass, split it lengthwise in halves, cutting each half again into two or three pieces; sprinkle over with flour and place on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil- ing them very gently, brush over continually with butter to prevent burning. When of a light brown color, place the pieces of fish on a napkin spread over a dish and serve. Fried Bass with Bacon. Wash, scale and carefully clean the bass, season well with pepper and salt, roll them in flour and let them lie in it until ready to be cooked, then drop into a pan of very hot lard and fry until nicely browned. Then fry in a separate pan four sli< streaky bacon; one piece for each piece of the fish and lay the slices of bacon one on each piece of fish. Garnish with parsley and serve with mashed potatoes FISH. 4'.' Fried Black Bass. Scale and clean the requisite number of black bass, roll well in flour, put in a fry- ingpan with hot fat to about half their height and fry until done. Place on a dish, garnish with potatoes, slices of lemon, parsley, and serve. Broiled Bloaters. Scrape and clean enough bloaters and wipe dry on a towel ; split down the belly from head to tail and lav them flat upon a buttered gridiron, UV cr a clear fire, broiling lor about six minutes, turning so as to cook both sides. When they are done, place them on a dish with a little butter over them and serve. Baked Bluehsh, Italian Style. Score and scale the requisite amount of bluefish and place it in a buttered pan witli half a wineglassful of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, and a little very finely chopped onion, six chopped mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper ; cover the dish with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes, then remove and lay on a dish. Place the liquor in a stewpan, add a gill of Spanish sauce, with one wineglassful of white wine, and reduce for two minutes. Pour the sauce over the fish, with a little finely chopped parsley, and serve, with fancv croutons of bread. Bouillabai- Place a sufficient quantity of mixed fish, such as soles, whiting, gurnet and flound- ers into a saucepan, having cut them into pieces, anil add some sliced onions, one or two sliced carrots, three shallots, two unpicked cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme ami parsley, five or six cloves, two bay-leaves, half a teaspoonful of capsicum, a little olive oil, ami salt and pepper to taste. Pour into the above mixture a couple of quarts of water and boil gently lor hall an hour, the lid being placed on the pan. When suffi- ciently cooked drain the fish and arrange on a hot dish. Then mix a teaspoonful of saffron with the sou]) and pass through a pointed strainer into a soup-tureen. Serve the soup with the fish and a plate of croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast. Baked Carp. Clean a carp and place it in a bowl of salted cold water and vinegar to let it dis- Remove, drain and dry it, stuff with well-seasoned forcemeat, sew up the belly. brush it with egg, dredge breadcrumbs over and put on a few small lumps of butter here and there. Place the fish in a deep earthenware dish with two onions cut in and a lew sweet herbs, pour over one breakfast cupful each of sweet wine and stock, mixing it with one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce or essence, put the dish in a 50 FISH. moderate oven and bake for an hour. Dress the carp carefully on a dish and keep it hot, then strain the liquor into a saucepan, add a lump of butter rolled in flour to thicken and stir continually over the fire until it is done; then mix in half a teaspoon- ful of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Pour this into a sauceboat and serve. Baked Carp, -Mariniere. Take a carp weighing from ten to twelve pounds, scale, draw it, and cut a little off the fins and fill the inside with forcemeat. Remove a little of the skin from the back, leaving the flesh exposed, and lard this with fat bacon ; then truss the head ; place the fish on a drainer in a long fishkettle, season it and fill the kettle to about half the height of the fish with court bouillon and white wine in the proportion of one quart of the former to one-half pint of the latter. Place the kettle on the fire and let the liquid boil for five minutes ; then remove the carp and put it in a moderate oven to bake for about an hour and a half, basting it often. When done, take it out, drain, and pour its stock through a sieve, putting the fish back into the kettle again to keep hot. Prepare a little brown sauce with the stock, and when clarified and strained, put it into a flat stewpan with a handful of mushroom trimmings; pour in a wineglassful of white wine and reduce ; then pass it through a sieve, adding a quarter of a pound of good butter. Place the carp on an oval dish and garnish it on both sides with a bunch of quenelles of whitings, one of mushrooms and one of blanched olives ; glaze the larding with a paste-brush and pour a little sauce over the other parts of the fish and a little at the bottom of the dish. Put the soft roes into the balance of the sauce and serve in a sauceboat. Boiled Carp. Clean and wash one or two carp, place them in a saucepan, pour over sufficient rich beef gravy to cover, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, four cloves, and salt to the taste. Place the saucepan on a moderate fire and cook gently for an hour or until the fish is done. Pour into a saucepan a pint of strong beef gravy, with two wineglassfuls of white wine; allow this to get hot, and add the strained juice of half a lemon. Place the carp on a dish, pour over the hot lemon-flavored liquor and serve promptlv. Pickled Carp. Alter cleaning a carp make as small an opening as possible, tie up the head, put the fish in a fish kettle, pour over boiling vinegar, and after a few minutes add a tum- blerful of red wine, and a seasoning of tWO Carrots and three onions cut into slices, and a small quantity each of sage, thyme, laurel leaves, parsley, cloves and garlic, and then set the kettle on the fire and allow it to simmer gently for an hour. Let the fish remain in this until it is quite cold, when it will be ready to serve. FISH. 51 Stewed Carp. Take a large carp, cut out the gills, but do not remove the tongue; then make as small an opening in the under edge as possible in order to open it, and wash it out thoroughly. Boil one-half pint of vinegar, and when it is boiling pour it over the fish that the scales may drop off easily. Wrap the carp in a cloth and stew it in a court bouillon. When done drain it and serve with capers and anchovy sauce, or without sauce after soup. Catfish Stewed with Tomatoes. Slice the fish, each weighing about two ounces, and fry these with a very little butter or dripping. When they are partly browned and about half cooked, add one breakfast cupful of water, one or two minced green onions, and a pod of red pepper. Strain a can of tomatoes over a colander on to the fish, and cook together for half an hour, Serve with pieces of dry toast. Baked Codfish. Take a fresh cod and prepare it by tying up the head with string and filling the inside with maitre d'hotel butter, put the fish belly downward on a buttered drainer in a fish kettle, and pour over it a mixture made as follows: Melt two pounds of butter in a saucepan, add three quarts of chopped mushrooms, two blanched and chopped shallots, four tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, a crushed clove of garlic, and season to taste; all of these being partly cooked before used. Pour over the fish a pint and a half of white wine, and bring it quickly to a boil, then let cook gently for an hour and a half, basting the fish every ten minutes with the liquor. When the flesh is firm put the fish on a dish and pour over it half the fish stock, putting the rest in a sauce-boat. Any fish sauce may accompany it. Baked Codfish with Cream. Take the tail of a cod, clean it, and boil in salted water with a little parsley. When it is done wipe and open down the back, remove the bones and break the meat into pieces. Place these pieces in layers, and between each one a little bechamel sauce slightly reduced with cream, also a piece of butter and nutmeg. Sprinkle a few breadcrumbs on top and brown it. Codfish Balls. Take the bone from a piece of fish, make it weigh six ounces, soak in cold water, put in a saucepan and boil for half an hour. Pound it to a pulp, being careful that all the bones are removed. Boil a half pound of potatoes and when done mash them up with the fish, adding a tablespoonful of melted butter and one egg. Make this into balls and fry to a light brown. 52 FISH. Boiled Codfish with Cream Sauce. Take out the inside of a cod bv the white skin of the bellv, taking care to remove all blood. Place the fish in a kettle with salted cold water and boil fast at first and then slowlv. When done take out and skin. Pour over it sauce made as follows: A quarter pound of butter put in a stew pan with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten with a pint of cream, add a little salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies: place the pan on the fire, let thicken but not boil. Boiled Codfish with Hollandaise Sauce. Take the gills from a cod, also the entrails where the gills form a hole, chop off the fins and sprinkle over the fish a little salt, also putting some inside, then place in a cold place and let it remain for a few hours. Take it up, wash off the salt, tie the head with string, put it in a bowl of water and milk and let it disgorge for about three-quarters of an hour. Take it out and drain, put bellv downward on a drainer in a fish kettle with enough cold salted water to cover it, add three cupfuls of milk and boil slowlv until the cut begins to open. Cleaning Codfish. It is usual first to remove the gills bv cutting their connection with the rest of the head and shoulders and pulling them out. Lav the fish on his back, open the bellv bv cutting down the center, remove the inside, carefully preserving the liver and roe, and leaving the sounds uninjured. If the fish is to be cooked whole it should be " scored " to the bone transversely at intervals of two inches ; but if it is to be cooked in pieces, cut it in slices three inches thick and soak the fish in water for a quarter of an hour. Cod is crimped by being cut up and notched with a knife while partly alive; but some cooks object to this. The following recipes for cooking cod are carefully selected as likely to give sufficient variety to suit all tastes and to all purposes. The fish is usually divided, bv the fishmonger, into "head and shoulders," "middle " and "tail; " but although preference may be given to the middle cut, the tail is quite as good, although not so fleshy, and the head yields in quantity the gelatine that makes excellent soup. Codlings are for the most part amenable to the same treatment. Fillets of Codfish, Hollandaise. Take any number of fillets of cod, put in a buttered stewpan, add one gill of stock, season, sprinkle a little tine parsley over, and set in the oven, or on the stove, with a buttered paper over. When done put them upon a dish, bordered with mashed potatoes. Fried Cod. Cut a cod in slices, dust with pepper and salt and let remain for two hours. Wipe the slices dry, dip in yolk of egg ami then in breadcrumbs, mix with flour, - ISH. 53 and put in pan with plenty of fat and fry quickly. The tail is best for frying, and after removing the skin and bones, cut in slices and press with a cutlet bat. Fried Codfish, Maitre d'Hotel. Trim a few fillets of cod and dip them in flour. Rub some breadcrumbs through a wire sieve, whisk two whole eggs, season, and dip the fillets in the eggs, roll in the breadcrumbs and fry to a light brown. Serve with maitre d'hotel sauce in a boat. Hashed Codfish. Take a cupful of cooked cod, pick in pieces and soak in cold water for twelve hours. Boil some potatoes and add them to the finely chopped fish, a little at a time, put in a pan and stir. Heat some butter, put the hash in it and let it cook gentlv. Matelote of Codfish. Remove the head and bones of a fish, fill the insides with stuffings made from half a pint of oysters, one pint of breadcrumbs, a little pepper, a little salt, two table- spoonfuls of butter, one c^, half an onion and half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Take six slices of bacon, put three on the bottom and three on the top of the fish and bake for an hour, basting with butter and gravy made from the bones boiled in water. Stewed Codfish. Take a piece of boiled fish, remove the skin and bones, and pick into flakes ; put these into a stew pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, minced parsley, cayenne, and the juice of a lemon. Put on the fire, and when the contents of the pan are quite hot the fish is quite ready to serve. Baked Cod's Head. Trim and wash well the head of a cod, fill the gills with veal stuffing, put the head in a baking dish, season with pepper and salt, also add a little paisley ; moisten with a pint of sherry and a little catsup, put a buttered paper over and set in the oven to bake. The fish must be well basted while baking, and a pint of stock may be added to keep it moist. When the head is nearly done sprinkle it over with fine raspings of bread, and when it is quite done put it upon a dish. Add two gills of brown sauce to the liquor in the baking pan, strain in a stewpan, and put in a little essence of anchovy, two ounces of butter and a little lemon juice ; boil the sauce for a few minutes, pour on the cod and serve. 54 FISH. Salted Cod, Biscayan Stvle. Bone two pounds of cod and soak in cold water for a day, place in a saucepan with fresh water and simmer till boiling, then add fresh water and let boil again ; take out and scale. Frv two chopped onions and one green pepper in a gill of oil for five minutes, add a sliced tomato, one clove of bruised garlic and one chili pep- per. Moisten these with three pints of broth, add a small bunch of parsley, three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and one pint of peeled potatoes, and cook for forty minutes ; then add the cod and boil again for five minutes. Boiled Salted Cod. Steep two pounds of salted cod and put in tepid water for six hours; then take it out and place it for the same length of time in cold water, changing about every half hour. Put the fish in a gallon saucepan filled with water, and when it boils put on the side and let simmer for five minutes. Boiled Salted Cod with Egg Sauce. Chop fine one pound of freshly-salted cod that has been soaked, boiled, and allowed to get cold. Mix one teaspoonful of corn meal with one cupful of milk, and stir on the fire till it thickens, then add half a pound of mashed potatoes rubbed through a sieve, two ounces of butter, one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, two beaten eggs and pepper to taste. (2.) Boil two eggs for ten minutes, cut them into large dice, and put in one pint of melted butter sauce. When the fish is done pour this over it and serve. Salted Cod with Brown Butter. Soak the fish in cold water for two days, then scrape off the scales, clean and wash thoroughly, and place over a slow fire until boiling. Move the kettle to the side of the fire, skim off the scum that may have risen to the top, and boil gently for ten minutes. Put a little butter in a fryingpan and place over the fire, when it is hot put in a few sprigs of parsley and fry until brown. Pour the butter and parsley over the fish and serve hot. Boiled Cod's Tongues with Egg Sauce. Place the tongues in warm writer and leave for a day and a half, changing the water once. Put a pan of water on the fire, and when it boils put in the tongues and boil them for ten minutes. Place a piece of toast on a dish, brush the tongiu - with egt, r sauce, put them on the toast and serve. FISH. 55 Fried Cod's Tongues. Wash eighteen to twenty tongues, dip in cold milk, and roll one by one in flour. Put one teacupful of clarified butter in a frying-pan, lay in the tongues, keeping them separate and cook for three minutes; then turn on the other side and cook for three minutes longer. Serve with one gill of tomato sauce in a sauceboat. Cod Tongues, Poulette Style, Put eighteen tongues, blanched, in a saucepan, add a pint of Dutch sauce, half a gill of the stock in which they were blanched, and one teaspoonful of chopped pars- lev, and beat for five minutes without boiling. Put in a deep dish, sprinkle with pars- lev and serve-. Cod's Tongues with Black Butter Sauce. Blanch eighteen cod's tongues, and put in a saucepan with half a gill of the liquor that they were blanched in, heat, but do not boil. Drain, dress on a hot dish and pour over one pint of black butter sauce. Braised Eel, Royal Style. After skinning and cleaning, cut an eel into two-inch pieces, sprinkle with salt and let them remain for an hour or so. Plunge into a bowl of cold water for ten minutes, dry them, put in a well-buttered saucepan and season with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and over them place slices of lemons and shallots, also a little scraped parsley root and a few whole white peppers. Set the saucepan over a slow fire with hot ashes on the lid and braise until the fish is done. Place the pieces of eel on a dish; add to the saucepan one breakfast cupful of stock and boil for a feu minutes and thicken with a white roux; let this reduce slightly; remove the pan from the fire, add a liaison of the volks of three eggs, boil up once more, strain into a saucepan containing double its quantity of German sauce, boil up again, pour around the eel, and serve. Brochcttes of Eels. Cut two or three eels in slices about one inch in thickness, after skinning and cleaning; lay them in a dish, dust over with salt, pepper and a little finely chopped parsley and sweet herbs and let them stand for two or three hours. Have in readi- ness some truffles parboiled in white wine and cut into slices; put the pieces of eels on attelettes or skewers with pieces of truffle between; brush the whole over with yolk of egg, dip into sifted breadcrumbs, put them into a fryingpan of boiling fat and fry for about twenty minutes. When done put them on a dish without remov- ing the skewers and serve. 56 FISH. Broiled Eels. Skin and clean a good-sized eel; remove the backbone and cut the eel into four or five pieces. Dip each piece first into egg and then into breadcrumbs mixed with grated rind of lemon, nutmeg, parsley, sweet herbs, pepper and salt. Put the pieces of fish on a greased gridiron with the skin side of the fish downward, over a clear fire, and broil them, turning over when done on one side. Put on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and horseradish set alternately, and serve with tartar or anchovy sauce in a sauceboat. Fricassee of Eel. Skin and clean some eels and cut off their heads ; chop them up into small pieces and put into a fryingpan with sufficient white wine and water in equal parts to cover; season with mace, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, sweet herbs, allspice and salt according to taste. Set the pan over a good fire and boil until the eels are quite tender, then put them on a dish. Pound in a mortar two anchovies and add them to the liquor with a little butter and yolks of eggs to thicken. Pour this over the fish, and serve. ( Fried Eels. Cut a large eel into thick slices, after skinning and cleaning; put the pieces into a basin with vinegar, the peel from two or three lemons, and a little each of salt and pepper, and let them soak for a day or so ; take them out, drain, dip into batter, plunge into a fryingpan of boiling fat and frv. When done, drain, place on a napkin on a dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of reduced stock mixed with a little lemon juice and a pounded, boned anchovy. Matelote of Eels. Skin two large eels, cut them into pieces, without opening the belly, thrust a knife blade into each piece, and twist it around to remove the inside. Wash them well ; put into a saucepan with one breakfast cupful of stock and half a pint of claret, adding a clove of garlic, a whole pepper, a sliced onion, a bay leaf, thyme, cloves, parsley and a little salt, and boil gently until done. Take out the pieces of fish, strain the liquor and add a Liquorglassful of brandy to it. Put a piece of butter into a saucepan, stir in one tablespoonful of flour to thicken, add it to the sauce and boil. Place croutons of fried bread in a circle on a dish ; arrange the fish in the center, pour the sauce over and serve. Matelote of Eels, Normandy Style. Cut a pound ami a half of eels into pieces, put them in a saucepan with a table- spoonful of butter and fry for two minutes, add a wineglassful of white wine, three FISH. 57 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup, season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg and cook for ten minutes longer; add half a pint of veloute sauce, six mushrooms, twelve blanched oysters, six fish quenelles, and six small cooked crayfish tails and continue cooking for five minutes. Beat in the yolks of three eggs when ready to serve, then remove the pan from the fire and serve with a garnish of croutons of fried bread. Stewed Eels, American Style. Take three pounds of cleaned, skinned eels, having all the fat removed from the insides, cut them into pieces about two inches long, shake a little pepper and salt over and place in a jar with a quarter of a pound of butter. Chop an onion and scat- ter over the eels, and one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. Cover the jar closely, stand it over the fire in a saucepan of cold water, allow it slowly to come to a boil and cook until tender. This will take about an hour and a half from the time the water boils. Serve in a deep dish. Stewed Eels, Bordelaise Style. Skin and clean an eel, split it open and put in a stewpan with a slice of onion, two or three sprigs of parsley and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover with Madeira wine and simmer until the eel is done. Take it out and press between two plates until cold, strain and reduce the liquor, add a little fish glaze and strain it through a conical strainer into a bain-marie pan, cut the eel into fillets, put these with a little of the sauce into a stewpan over a moderate fire and heat the eel. Arrange them in a circle on a dish and garnish the center with glazed and blanched small onions. Mix a little anchovy butter and a pinch of cayenne with matelote sauce. Pour over the eels and serve. Stewed Eels, Poulctte Style. Cut some cleaned eel in two-inch pieces and stew them in a marinade or stock. Make a little white roux, and mix a little broth with it; add a few green onions, a bunch of parsley, one small white onion, five or six mushrooms, and a little glaze, seasoning with pepper and salt, and boil for twenty minutes, stirring continually. Take out the parsley and onions, and add a little finely chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon. Remove the eels, drain, dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. Attelettes of Fish. Cut a slice of any fish to a little more than half an inch thick, remove the skin, and divide the slice in two, having removed the bone. Cut the slices into very thin strips, forming the attelettes, salt, dip them in oil, roll in Hour, and plunge them into hot fat to fry. As soon as the flesh is firm, take them out with a skimmer, drain, season them with salt, and dish up with a little fried parsley. Note that this process is simply one of frying strips of flesh, and may therefore 5 8 FISH. be applied equally well to almost any kind of fish flesh which may be convenient. The hot fat must be hotter than boiling water, and a thick batter may be used instead of oil and flour. Anchovy sauce goes well with these fish attelettes. For this kind of dish it is well to have small silver skewers, about four inches long and of the thickness of a packing needle, with a ring or fancy design on the top, the persons eating what is served on them, taking the head of the skewer with the thumb and fingers of the left hand and picking it off with a fork. Curried Fish. Peel and cut two medium-sized onions into thin slices and put in a stewpan with a small lump of butter and fry until lightly browned. Pour over them some white stock, judging the quantity by that of the fish ; add one ounce of butter and a suf- ficient quantity of curry powder ; season with salt, lemon juice, a little sugar and a mall quantity of cayenne. Boil the stock for fifteen or twenty minutes, then strain it into a clean stewpan, skim and put in the fish, having carefully prepared it, and boil gentlv, but without breaking it. Wash and boil about half a pound of rice in water ; when cooked it should be dry and have the grains unbroken. Turn the curry out on to a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast, and serve very hot, with the rice separate. Fish Cutlets. Season one pint of anv kind of cold cooked fish with salt, pepper and cavenne. and make it into paste with a little thick cream sauce, made quite hot. Put the paste on a dish to about half an inch in thickness, and when it is cold form it into the shapes of cutlets. Put them first into bread or cracker crumbs, then into egg and again into crumbs. Fry in a frvingpan of hot fat until brown. If lobster is used, insert a small claw at the end of each cutlet, and for other kinds of fish use a small piece of thick bone. Drain off the fat and serve. Fish Fritters. Pick free from all bones a quantity of any kind of cold cooked fish and pound it in a mortar; take a small onion, peel and pound it with the fish; season to taste with salt and pepper, and add an equal bulk of mashed potatoes, mix well together and make all into a paste with beaten egg. Spread the paste out on a board, cut it into small pieces about three inches across and fry them in boiling lard to a light brown. Fold a napkin over a hot dish and pile the fritters on it. Garnish with fried parsley and serve with any kind of fish sauce. Fish, Normandy Style. Melt in a bakingdish five ounces of butter on the stove or in an oven; sift into it one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, a very little grated nutmeg, .1 small quan- FISH. 59 tity of salt and black pepper, a very Little red pepper, and one tablespoonful of mush- room catsup; add five pounds of any kind of fish without skin or bone and cut in pieces about four inches long and an inch and a half wide. Pour in three tablespoon- fuls of brandy and four tablcspoonfuls of white wine, fit the cover on the dish, put a flour and water dough round the edge to keep the steam in and bake in a moderate oven. Serve very hot. Pickled Fish. Cut into slices the required quantity of any kind of fish, dust over well with flour and put them into a fryingpan with oil to fry. Have in a mortar two or three sprigs of mint, one fresh capsicum and salt to taste, and pound well together; pour in slowly two breakfast cupfuls of vinegar, turn the whole into a saucepan and boil for five or six minutes. Take out the fish and drain it, pour over the hot vinegar. Serve when quite cold. Baked Flounders. Take two flounders, clean and split, and take out all the small bones. Lav the fish in a buttered dish and strew over some chopped mushrooms, parsley, green onions and rasped breadcrumbs; season with salt, pepper and a small quantity of grated nut- meg. Put a few pieces of butter on the top, and bake. Make a sufficient quantity of caper sauce, flavoring it with essence of anchovy and the juice of half a lemon. When cooked, drain the butter from the fish, pour over the sauce, and serve. Baked Flounders, Italian Style. (.'lean and prepare the fish as for boiling; put it into an oval-shaped bakingpan with one ounce of soft butter spread over it; pour over half a pint of white wine, and season with salt and pepper; then add three quarters of a pint of Italian sauce and sprinkle the top thickly with bread raspings. Place the pan on top of the fire for about five minutes to start the boiling, then put it in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour. Serve it in the pan in which it was cooked. Boiled Flounders. Clean and wash a flounder, make a sharp cut nearly to the bone down the back, put it into a fishkettle with sufficient water to cover, add half an ounce of saltpetre and four ounces of salt to every gallon of water and simmer gently on the side of the fire for six minutes or longer, according to the size of the fish, taking care that it does not break. Take it out carefully, spread on a napkin and serve with a sauceboatful of melted butter. Fricassee of Flounders. Take one or two Bounders, clean and wash thoroughly; remove the fillets care- fully and dust them over with salt and flour, plunge them into boiling fat and fry. 60 FISH. Chop finely one dozen oysters, put them with their liquor into a saucepan, pour in a tumblerful of white wine, add three boned anchovies, and salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste. Let them cook gently for two or three minutes, then put in the fillets, give the pan a shake, warm all up together, turn the whole out on to a hot dish and serve with slices of lemon for garnish. Fried Flounders. Clean and prepare as for boiling some small fish, score them over the back and sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them into milk and cover well with flour; or dip them in egg and breadcrumbs, put them into a fryingpan of hot fat and fry for four minutes, then bring the fat to the boil and fry for three minutes longer. Take them out, drain and dust over with a little salt; garnish with halves of lemon and fried parsley and serve on a hot dish. Baked Haddock. Clean a haddock, remove the eyes, trim it and pass its tail through the cavity of the eyes, or the tail may be tied to its mouth. Chop finely two ounces of fat bacon and a little green parsley, mix these with two ounces of breadcrumbs, a little salt and pepper, a few drops of essence of anchovy, and an egg to make it into a stiff paste. Stuff the fish with the mixture and sew it up. Put one tablespoonful of flour in a basin, work into it one tablespoonful of cold water, pour on one breakfast cupful of boiling water, and mix in one ounce of butter and two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy. Pour this into a baking tin, put the fish on it, place the pan in a moderate oven and bake for an hour, basting frequentlv, or until done, without its taking color. It may be served in the baking tin placed in the dish or taken out and placed on a dish; but the fish needs to be handled very carefully or it will break to pieces when moved, thus spoiling its appearance. The sauce can be poured round it. A few skinned shrimps added to the sauce when it is about half cooked are a great improve- ment, and the dish may be garnished with crayfish tails. Boiled Haddock with Lobster Sauce. Wash the fish, then place it in a fishkettle with boiling water to cover, add one tablespoonful of salt, and boil gently for about half an hour. Pick out the flesh of a small lobster and cut it into little pieces; put the coral in a mortar with one ounce of butter, and pound it. Place three ounces of butter in a small saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix together over the fire until well incorporated; then put in the pounded coral, and season with two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a small quantity of cayenne. Pour in gradually one pint of boiling water, and stir it over the fire for ten minutes. Strain the sauce, return it to the saucepan, put in the of lobster, anil boil it up once. When cooked drain the fish, being careful not FISH. 61 to break it; place it on a hot dish, baste with a little of the sauce, and serve the balance in a sauceboat. Broiled Haddock. Clean and wash a fresh haddock, dry it on a cloth, rub it with vinegar, and sprinkle it with flour; place a well greased gridiron over a clear fire, and broil for about fifteen minutes, turning frequently. When done place it on a dish, and serve with shrimp or anchovy sauce. Fried Fillets of Haddock. Skin and clean a haddock, cut the flesh into fillets, trimming them into pieces about six inches long, dip them into well beaten egg and then into sifted bread- crumbs. Be sure that they are well covered, plunge them into a fryingpan of boiling fat, and fry to a rich color, turning them over, in order to cook both sides. Take them out, drain, put them on a cloth spread over a dish, and serve with a sauceboat- ful of Dutch sauce. Haddock, Maitre d'Hotel. Clean a haddock and cut it open at the back on each side of the bone, dust with salt and pepper, dip it in flour, place on a gridiron over a clear fire and cook for about twenty minutes, turning carefully. Tut two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter on the back of the fish, place it in the oven to melt the butter, then put the fish on a dish, pour around two more ounces of butter mixed with six tablespoonfuls of ordi- narv butter melted in a saucepan over the tire and made quite hot. Baked Smoked Haddock. Put the haddock into a pan, pour some boiling water over, take it out, put it into another pan, mask with a little butter, pepper liberally, and bake in a hot oven lor ten minutes. It must be served while it is quite hot. Broiled Smoked Haddock. Brush a fish over with warmed butter, dust with pepper, place it on a gridiron over the fire and broil until done, or it can be cooked in front of the fire. Serve while hot. Fried Smoked Haddock. Soak a haddock in olive oil for a number of hours, then put it in a fryingpan with oil and fry until it is done. Pepper well and serve at once. Baked Halibut. three or four pounds of the fish and remove the dark skin by dipping the put i ovi red by it into boiling water and scraping. Rub the flesh over with salt and 62 FISH. pepper, place it in a bakingpan and pour over milk to the depth of about one inch in the pan. Put the pan in the oven and bake for an hour or more, basting frequently with the milk. Take out the fish, remove the bone and skin, put it on a dish in its original shape and serve with egg sauce, cream sauce or plain drawn butter. The dish may be garnished with slices of hard-boiled eggs, or it may. be served with bread- crumbs sprinkled over and tomato sauce in a tureen. Boiled Halibut. Put about two pounds of halibut into a saucepan and cover it with fresh water, add one sliced onion, half a sliced carrot and a garnished bouquet, season with one handful of salt and pour over two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Place the lid on and cook gently for about five minutes after coming to the boiling point, then remove the fish, drain well, dress it on a hot dish and serve with anchovy butter spread all over. Broiled Halibut. Cut some slices from a halibut, dust over salt and pepper, place them in a dish, cover with warm butter and leave for half an hour. Roll them in flour and broil over a verv clear fire for twelve or fifteen minutes. Place them on a dish with a garnish of parsley and slices of lemon and serve. The slices of halibut should be about one inch thick, and three tablespoonfuls of butter may be used for every pound weight of fish. Fried Halibut Steaks. Cut some steaks from a halibut, place them in a fryingpan with a small quantity of butter and fry until clone. Put them on a dish and serve with Robert sauce poured round, but not on, the fish. Broiled Fresh Herrings, Maitre d'Hotel. Slice the herring down the stomach and take out the insides and the bones; pour over a little olive oil and sprinkle with chopped parsley, and let remain for an hour. Put them on a gridiron over the fire and broil until done. Put them on a dish with a few lumps of cold maitre d'hotel butter and serve. Broiled Fresh Herring with Mustard Sauce. Take the required number of herring with soft roes, cut off the heads and clean. but do not open them; dip them well in salad oil, season with pepper and salt ami leave them for an hour. Arrange the fish on a gridiron and let them stand over a clear, slow fire and broil for fifteen minutes, turning until they are done. Mix one teaspoonful of Hour and one tablespoonl'ul of mustard with cold water; when smooth pour in one breakfast cupful of white stock; turn this in a saucepan and stir over the FISH. 63 fire until thick and it boils, then put in one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Put the herrings on a hot dish, and when the butter is dissolved pour it over the fish and serve. Matelote of Fresh Herring. Take some herring, half of which have soft and half hard rocs ; gut them through the gill opening. Cut off the heads and tails and divide each herring lengthwise into two fillets, removing the bones. Put a small quantity of butter in a frvingpan, and enough flour to nearly absorb it, then add a little chopped parsley and shallots ; lay the herrings in the pan, sprinkle over them three wincglassfuls of red wine and cook over a hot fire. Put them on a hot dish and lay over some small onions and fried mushrooms, garnish the dish with fried breadcrumbs and serve hot. Stewed Fresh Herring. Take some fresh herring, cut off their heads and clean them, put them in layers in an earthen pot, sprinkle salt and pepper over each layer. Mince some onions and carrots and fry them in butter, with some peppercorns, a bunch of parsley and a clove of garlic, pour over the vegetables as much white wine as will cover the fish. When the liquor boils remove the pan to the side of the fire and simmer for half an hour. Strain the liquid over the herrings and let them stew over a slow fire ; they should not be touched while cooking, Smoked Herrings. Clean the herrings well and let them lie for one night in salt, with a small quantity of saltpetre mixed with it. The next day run a stick through the eyes, and in this way thread them all. Have ready a cask of sawdust with a red hot heater ill the center of it; fix the stick over this so that the herrings hang in a row in the middle of it, and smoke them for twenty-four hours. Boiled Kinghsh. Clean the fish, and place it in a fishkettle with enough clear fish broth to cover, and boil slowly. When cooked, strain the fish carefully, slip it on to a folded nap- kin, on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of either brown 01 white sauce. Baked Mackerel. Clean some mackerel, wash in plenty of water, split them open down the back, cut them across, making four pieces of each fish, and lay them in a pie dish in layers, placing between each layer a few bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, and a few sliced shallots. Mix this with half a pint of stock free from fat, and a wineglassful each of 64 FISH. white wine and vinegar, half a wineglassful each of anchovy and Harvey sauce and mushroom catsup, and a third of a tablespoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and sov. Pour this mixture over the fish, put in a flat dish and bake in a moderate oven. When it is cooked lav the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them, and leave until quite cold. When they are ready to serve arrange a few sprigs of parsley around the dish. Boiled Mackerel. Prepare and clean some mackerel, put them in salted water, and boil until they are done. When they arc cooked, drain the mackerel and put them on a hot dish. Blanch some fennel in salted water, and when it is soft drain and chop it finclv ; put one tablespoonful in half a pint of butter sauce, and serve in a sauceboat with the fish. Boiled Marinaded Mackerel. Put enough weak broth in a fishkettle fitted with a drainer to cover a dozen mackerel, add three small onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a teacupful of vinegar, eight cloves with pepper and salt to taste, boil all together for one hour; then put them in the fish and cook. When it is done take the fish out carefully on the drainer, being careful not to break them and put one by one on a hot dish. Strain the liquor in which they were cooked, put in some parslcv and hard boiled eggs to thicken it, mix in some white gravy sauce, turn it into a sauceboat and serve with the fish. Broiled Mackerel. Draw and wash the mackerel, cut off their heads, rub over with salt and leave for an hour. Rub a gridiron with olive oil, lav the mackerel on it and broil over a charcoal fire. Place some chopped parsley and onions on a hot dish, and when the fish is cooked, squeeze over lemon juice and serve it while it is hot. Broiled Mackerel, Normandy Sauce. Clean and marinade some mackerel in oil, a slice of onion and a few sprigs of parsley. The roes must not be take out. Fill them up with as much maitre d'hote! butter as they will hold, wrap them around with sheets of oiled paper, securing the ends with thread, place them on a gridiron over a clear fire which must be a slow one, broil tor forty minutes. When they are done remove the paper, place the fish on a dish, mask them with Normandy sauce and serve with fried bread lor garnish. Broiled Mackerel with Black Butter. Take some mackerel, open and remove the bones, spread a little butter ami sprinkle some pepper and salt over them. Place the fish on a gridiron and broil over FISH. 65 a clear fire. Put a pat of butter in a saucepan and stir it over the fire until it is richly browned, then squeeze in some lemon juice. Place the fish on a hot dish, arrange some sprigs of parsley around, pour over the butter and serve while it is very hot. Broiled Spanish Mackerel. Cut a fish down the middle to take out all the bones and then cut again in halves ; dry the pieces on a cloth, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place two yolks of eggs in a basin and mix them with an equal bulk of olive oil, dip the pieces of fish into this and then into breadcrumbs and broil over a clear fire. Boiled Perch. Clean and scale the fish, leaving the roe and liver inside. Pour a small quantity of water in a fishkettle with a bunch of parsley, a little salt and pepper, and boil till the parsley is soft; then put in the fish with a lump of butter and boil slowlv for ten or twelve minutes. When cooked, remove carefully, lay it on a hot dish, strain the cooking liquor over, and serve with a Dutch sauce. Broiled Perch. iem. Choose perch of a moderate size, fresh from the water; scale and clean the and dry them in a napkin. Melt a good quantity of butter with some salt, let it be thick when it has cooled a little ; dip the perch in it, and roll it about till the butter sticks well to every part of it ; then set a gridiron over a very clear fire, but let it stand some distance from the fire, lor the perch must be well cooked before it is browned. Serve on a bed of fried parslev, garnish with quarters of lemon. Fried Perch. Scale, clean and wash the perch, dry them thoroughly and flour them. Put some dripping in a fryingpan and when boiling put the fish in, fry till nicely browned on both sides. Place them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of butter sauce. Perch, German Style. Scale and clean two moderately large perch and put them in a stewpan. Finely mince the red part of two carrots, some roots of parsley and celery, put them in the stewpan with the fish, with a bunch of parsley, one onion and a little salt, cover the perch with white wine and let them boil over a moderate fire for twenty minutes. Take the fish out when cooked, drain and place them on a hot dish. Take the bunch of parslev and onions out of the stewpan, then put in with the vegetables some finely minced raw mushrooms, and cook them for five minutes; then stir in a piece of 66 FISH. butter kneaded with flour to thicken it ; take the stewpan off the fire, put in some more butter, cut in small pieces, but not kneaded, add the strained juice of two lemons, pour it over the fish and serve. Perch, Normandy Style. Scale and clean the perch, put some chopped onions at the bottom of a flat stew- pan and put in the perch, with a bunch of parsley, some trimmings of fresh mush- rooms, a little salt and white wine to cover. When the liquid is boiling move the stewpan to the side of the fire and keep the contents simmering for fifteen minutes. Prepare a garnish with some quenelles, mushrooms, oysters, and mussels, reserving the liquor of the oysters and mushrooms. Drain the liquor off the fish through a fine hair sieve into a sautepan and boil it till reduced to half; then take the pan off the fire, thicken the sauce with kricaded butter, divided into small pieces, stirring all the time, then add a liaison of the yolks of three eggs. Put the perch on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, put the prepared garnish round, glaze it under a salamander and serve. Perch, Silesian Style. Draw and clean two or three fine perch, but do not scale them. Put some water in a saucepan with a bunch of parsley, a little vinegar and salt and boil it; then plunge the perch into it and boil for twenty minutes. Make the following sauce: Put in a stewpan two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a few sprigs of parslev, a little tarragon, two chopped shallots, a bav leaf, and four or five peppercorns. Boil the liquid till reduced to half its original quantity. Leave it till cool, then mix with it a teacupful of melted glaze, the beaten yolks of six eggs, four ounces of butter and a little salt, stir the sauce over a very slow fire to thicken without letting it boil. Place the same in a bain-marie and whisk it, adding gradually some small pieces of butter. When frothy put in a teacupful of brown sauce and about two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish. Remove the perch carefully with a skimmer, scrape the scales off, dip the fish in the cooking liquor, then wipe them in a cloth; put them in a hot dish, pour the prepared sauce over them, first mixing with it a little chopped parslev and a few capers and serve. Care must be taken to remove the scales quite cleanly or they will spoil the dish. Baked Pike. Scale and clean a pike, cut it into slices and place itin a bakingdish; put in some slices of onion, two bay leaves, a piece of butter, some pepper and salt, and one-half pint of sour cream. Hake it for twenty-five minutes in a brisk oven, basting often with the cream. Strew some breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over the fish, and brown it under a salamander. Place the slices of fish on a hot dish, pour some I troth in the baking dish, add some lemon juice, salt and pepper, stir it for a minute or two on the fire, then pour it over the fish and serve. FISH. 67 Boiled Pike, Dubois. Select a gold-coated pike weighing six or seven pounds, scale and draw it, truss the head and wash it well. Make incisions across the back as deep as the spine bone, place the fish on its belly in the fishkettlc, cover with white wine and water mixed in equal quantities, add a few minced vegetables, a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, four or five peppercorns and a little salt, bring to a boil and simmer over a slow fire for an hour. Prepare a good sauce with one pint of fish sauce strained and cooled, thicken it with flour and butter kneaded together, add two tablespoonfuls of sov and five tablespoonfuls of butter broken into small pieces. Drain the fish, place it on a folded napkin on a hot dish, or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with nice little sprigs of fresh parsley and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat. Boiled Pike with Caper Sauce. A pike will improve by being kept for two days; clean it, cut off the fins and bind its head round with a string. Put the fish in a fishkettlc, cover with court bouillon, and let it simmer for forty minutes, then leave it to soak in the court bouillon for twenty-four hours. Before warming the pike again take it and the liquor out and clean the kettle, then put it back again and warm it for twenty minutes. Place the fish on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish round with hied parsley and serve with a sauceboatful of caper sauce. Fried Fillets of Pike. Cut the fillets carcfullv off a pike, wash and dry them well, then dip them in beaten cu;ii; and breadcrumbs and fry in plenty of oil. When nicely browned drain the fillets, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, fill the center with matelote sauce and serve. Pike Financiere. Clean and skin a pike, wrap it in buttered paper and boil in mircpoix and French wine mixed in equal quantities. Make a garnishing of pike forcemeat quenelles, mushrooms, cravfish tails and truffles mixed in financiere sauce, prepared as for fish. Put a rice socle on a hot dish, drain and glaze the pike and put it in the socle, pile the garnishing round it in such a way that it hides the socle, garnish round with truf- fles, mushrooms and cravfish. Trim four silver skewers with crayfish, mushrooms and fried smelts, stick them in the fish and serve with a sauceboatful of the same sauce. Fried Pike. Select small pike, draw and wash them; put a lump of butter in a stewpan and when blue smoke arises put in the fish, seeing that they are perfectly dry, and fry till 68 FISH. nicely browned and crisp. Afterward drain the butter off them and put in with them two or three anchovies, a slice of ginger, a little grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and a sufficient quantity of claret to cover them. Boil the fish until tender, when the liquor should be reduced to half its original quantity; then add the juice of an orange and a small lump of butter. Lay the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with slices of oranges, and serve. Pickled Pike. Scale and empty a pike, wash it thoroughly, bind its head up, put it in a fish kettle and cover with a fish stock, made with red wine; add two or three bay leaves and boil slowly till tender. Leave the pike in the sauce till the following day. When ready to serve drain the fish, put it on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper. garnish with fresh parsley and serve with oil and vinegar. Broiled Pompano. Thoroughly scrape and clean a Pompano, and if it is a large one, divide it down the back and through the head; but if it be a small fish, weighing only about a pound, it may be cooked whole; sprinkle over salt and pepper, and place it on a gridiron over a clear fire, with the skin side downward, and after warming a little, brush it over with butter, adding a little more salt and pepper if desired, and return it to the gridiron to broil on both sides until done, when it may be placed on a dish, a little lemon juice squeezed over it, and served with tartar sauce, either poured over or served separately in a sauceboat. Baked Salmon with Cream Sauce. Take a middle cut of salmon; butter a large sheet of white paper and wrap the salmon in it, pinning the ends firmly together. Melt four ounces of butter bv mixing with it three tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Lay the fish, wrapped in paper, in a bakingpan and pour over the butter and water. Cover and place it in a moderate oven for an hour, lifting up the cover now and then to see that the paper is not burning. Boil one-half pint of cream, thickened with one heaping tablespoonful of corn starch; add to this one ounce of butter, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a small quantity each of pepper and salt. When the salmon is taken out of the paper and dished, pour half of the sauce over it and serve the balance in a sauceboat. Boiled Salmon. Take a piece of the tail of a fresh salmon, put it into a fishkettle with some salt. fennel and spices in moderate quantities, one-half teacupful of vinegar, and sufficient boiling water to cover. Boil the fish until tender. Prepare a sauce with one pint of the cooking liquor of the fish, one wineglassful of white wine, two finely minced FISH. 69 anchovies, and boil it until somewhat reduced; then mix with the sauce one ounce of the butter broken up into small pieces. Lay the salmon on a hot dish that has been covered with a folded napkin or napkins, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve with the sauce in a sauccboat. Boiled Salmon with Oyster Sauce. Put two pounds of very fresh salmon in a fishkettle, completely cover it with cold water, season with a handful of salt, add one medium-sized onion, one-half wine- glassful of white wine vinegar, eight or ten whole peppers, two cloves and two parslev roots. Place the kettle over a brisk fire, and five minutes after coming to the boil the salmon will be sufficiently cooked. Remove the fish from the kettle, drain it well, dress it on a hot dish with a folded napkin, decorate with sprigs of parslev all round the salmon, and serve with one pint of hot oyster sauce in a sauce-boat. The irv time to cook the above perfectly, from beginning to end, will be about thirty-five minutes. Colbert sauce and cold boiled potatoes, cut into quarters, may be substituted for the oyster sauce and parslev, Boiled Slices of Salmon with Piquant Sauce. Cut five slices of salmon, each three-fourths of an inch thick, from the middle of the fish, wash and dry them well, and put them in a saucepan of hot fish broth mixed up with a small quantity of wine. When boiling move the pan to the side of the fire, place the lid on, and let the contents simmer gently for ten or twelve minutes. When cooked, remove the slices of salmon carefully, wipe them on a cloth, and arrange them in an upright position on a folded napkin on a hot dish ; place a group of boiled potatoes at each side, a bunch of parslev at each end, and serve with a sauceboatful of piquant sauce. Salmon Bouchees. Prepare some bouchee cases, and fill them with a paste made of pounded cold salmon, seasoned and moistened witli lobster sauce. Boudins of Salmon. Remove the skin and bone from one pound of salmon, reduce it to a pulp, and pass it through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the puree ten ounces each of bread panada and crayfish butter, season the mixture with pepper and salt, and bind it with two well beaten eggs and a little reduced lean sauce that has been thickened with egg. Mix an onion that has been fried white and cut into small pieces with the forcemeat. Cut some strips of paper four inches long by two and one-half inches wide, and butter them. Place a piece of forcemeat three and one-half inches wide by one and three-fourths inches long and one and three-fourths inches thick on each strip of 7 o FISH. paper. Make a hollow in the center of each piece of forcemeat about three-fourths of an inch deep, and three-fourths of an inch wide. Fill the hollows with a salpicon of cooked salmon and truffles mixed in stiffly reduced allemande sauce, cover them with a little of the forcemeat, and wrap the paper round. Put the boudins in a saute- pan with a small quantity of stock, and let them simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Drain the boudins, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour over them some alle- mande sauce thickened with crayfish butter, and serve. Broiled Salmon. Cut some slices of salmon from the tail, place them in a deep dish,, cover with chopped parsley, laurel leaves and mixed herbs, season with salt and pepper, pour over some olive oil, and leave to soak for an hour. Broil the slices of fish on a gridiron, basting them occasionallv with some of the marinade. When nicely browned and cooked, place the salmon on a hot dish, pour some white caper sauce over and serve. Salmon Croquettes. Finely chop one pound of salmon; mix two tablcspoonfuls of flour and one tablespoonful of butter together; boil one-half pint of cream; mix the butter, flour and salmon in with it, and stir all over the fire for a minute. Work in a well-beaten cg^; with the above ingredients, remove them from the fire, and leave them until they are cold. Shape the mixture into croquettes, dip them in beaten egg then in bread- crumbs, and fry them in boiling fat. When cooked, drain the croquettes, place them on an ornamental dish paper or a folded napkin spread on a hot dish, garnish with slices of lemon and serve. Curried Salmon. Put a sliced Spanish onion in a stewpan with a piece of butter, fry it, then stir in one teaspoonful of currv powder, and one teaspoonful of curry paste ; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then pour in gradually one pint of broth, and add two pounds of salmon cut in small pieces. Let the curry simmer gently at the edge of the fire for an hour, skimming it now and then. Prepare a border of rice, turn it on to a hot dish, put the curry in the center and serve. Salmon Cutlets. Pick all the meat from a piece of cold salmon, and cut it into small pieces pound some lobster coral in a mortar with one-half ounce of butter, then rub it through a hair sieve. Put over the fire in a small saucepan one-fourth pint of milk and stir into it one ounce of Hour, well rubbed into one ounce of butter ; continue to stir it until it is so thick that it comes away from the sides of the pan. Add the butter, tin- salmon, a seasoning of cayenne pepper, salt and lemon juice ; take it from FISH. - 1 the fire, let it cool. When sufficiently cold, make it into thick rolls, brush them over with beaten egg, roll them in a paper of breadcrumbs, and fry in boiling fat or lard. The cutlets should be served hot and garnished with fried parsley. Salmon Cutlets, English Style. Cut off some slices of salmon and divide them into the shape of cutlets ; sprinkle some pepper and salt over, put them into a saucepan with a small quantity of butter, and toss them over a good fire. Take out the cutlets when cooked, drain off the butter, place them on a dish and serve with ravigote sauce, or a sauce made as follows : Tut three tablcspoonfuls of veloute sauce into a saucepan, reduce it and add one egg. four ounces of butter, a little salt, cayenne, some finely-minced parsley, and half the juice of a lemon. Mix it together well, and it is ready for use. Fried Salmon Cutlets. Take a quantity of cold boiled salmon, pick out all the bones and skin, pound it in a mortar, and to every six ounces of salmon allow two ounces of finely mashed potatoes; add to the potatoes pepper, salt, cayenne and mace to taste. When the seasoning is well stirred in add the pounded fish and mix all thoroughly. Flatten the mixture out, shape it into small cutlets. Brush them over with beaten egg, sprinkle them with fine breadcrumbs and fry to a light brown. Serve a quantity of anchovy sauce with them. Salmon Cutlet in Papers. Cut a slice about one inch thick from the middle of a salmon, wrap it round in oiled paper and fry it in boiling fat. When dune take it out, drain, and serve with the paper still on. Salmon Cutlets with Caper Sauce. Put some slices of salmon in oil with a little chopped parsley and chives and let them steep for one or two hours. Dip some pieces of paper in the oil that the salmon has marinaded in and wrap a piece around each slice. Place them on a well-greased gridiron and broil over a clear slow fire for from fortv-five to fifty minutes, according to the thickness of the slices, turning them occasionally. Remove the paper from the cutlets, place them on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish and serve with a sauceboatful of white caper sauce. Salmon Cutlets with Milanese Sauce. Cut a piece of salmon into slices, and cut each slice into halves ; trim away the skin and bone. Dip each piece in a small quantity of white wine, wrap them in sheets of buttered writing paper, and fasten them securely at the edges. Put a lump -i FISH. of butter in a fryingpan, and when boiling frv the salmon in it. When cooked, re- move the papers from the salmon, place it in a folded napkin or an ornamental dish- paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauccboatful of Milanese sauce. Salmon Cutlets with Oyster Sauce. Cut three large slices from the middle of a salmon, and boil them in salted water. Put one teaspoonful of chopped onions in a saucepan with a small quantity of oil and toss them over the fire for a few minutes, but do not color. Cut four dozen oysters into small pieces, put them in with the onions, and stir them over the fire until well warmed through ; then mix in two tablcspoonfuls of flour, one-half tea- cupful of oyster liquor, two tcaspoonfuls of sugar, a little essence of anchovies, and one pinch of salt and cayenne pepper ; stir the above ingredients over the fire, let them boil for a few minutes, stir in quickly the beaten yolks of four eggs, and keep it on the fire for a minute or two longer. Pour the sauce on a dish and leave it until cold. Put the slices of salmon on the sauce, brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinkle breadcrumbs over them ; brown them in a hot oven, garnish round with ovsters, pour some lobster sauce over the fish and serve. Fillets of Salmon, Parisian Style. Cut some slices of salmon into small fillets, place them in a buttered sautepan ; sprinkle a small quantity of pepper and salt over, baste them with clarified butter, and cover with a round of buttered paper ; saute them over a clear fire. Fix a croustade on a hot dish, fill it with oysters and picked shrimps that have been mixed in Hollandaisc sauce, with the addition of some chopped parsley ; arrange the fillets around the croustade, garnish with parsley, pour some of the sauce over and serve. Fillets of Salmon with Ravigote Sauce. Cut some fillets of salmon into small, equal-sized pieces, put them into a sauce- pan with the juice of half a lemon, a small quantity of chopped parsley, clarified butter, pepper and salt. Fry them over a slow fire, turning them when done on one side and cook the other. Drain the fillets, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour some ravigote sauce in the center, and serve without delay. Fried Salmon. Cut some thin slices of salmon, sprinkle them over with salt, and leave for fifteen or twenty minutes. Dredge flour over the slices of salmon, brush over with the beaten yolk of egg, and fry in boiling salad oil. When cooked, drain the slices of salmon well, and place them on an ornamental dish-paper or a Folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish witli fried parsley, ami serve. FISH. 73 Broiled Kippered Salmon. Cut the salmon into strips, and wrap each one separately in buttered paper; make a gridiron hot and grease it well, lay the pieces of fish on it, and broil them over a clear fire, turning them now and then. When broiled, remove the paper, place the pieces of fish on a very hot dish, and serve at once. Fried Kippered Salmon. Put the slices of kippered salmon in a deep dish, cover them with salad oil, and let them macerate for several hours. Drain the oil off the salmon into a fryingpan, and when boiling put the pieces of salmon in and fry them quickly for four or five minutes. Drain the salmon, put it on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin, on a hot dish, garnish the dish with slices of lemon and serve at once. Salmon en Matelote. Wash and truss a small salmon in the shape of the letter S, and boil it in salted water. When cooked, drain it, put it on a hot dish, bend some legs of lobster at the joints, and stick the ends in the back of the salmon from head to tail. Have pre- pared the following sauce : Put six tablespoonfuls of butter in one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of butter sauce, stir it over the fire until it is hot, then stir in quickly two eggs that have been beaten with a small quantity of lemon juice, and pepper and salt to taste. Pour the sauce over the fish, garnish it with small strips of fillets of sole that have been dipped in beaten egg and breadcrumbs and fried, and serve. Salmon, Maitre d'Hotel. Squeeze a small quantity of lemon juice over some slices of salmon, and leave them for a short time. When ready cover each slice with chopped fennel and parsley, put the fish in a saucepan, cover it with broth that has been thickened with flour and water, and let it simmer gently until cooked. Place the salmon on a hot dish, and serve it with maitre d'hotel sauce. Salmon Patties. Skin and bone a nice piece of salmon, chop the flesh well and season it highly with grated nutmeg, cayenne pepper, salt and pepper ; rub in a small quantity of fresh butter and bind it with the beaten yolk of an c^. Putter some tartlet tins, line them with puff paste and fill them with the salmon mixture; cover each with a flat of paste, trim round the edges, moisten and press them together and bake the patties. These may be eaten either hot or cold. 74 FISH. Vol-Au-Vent of Salmon. Prepare a puff paste, giving it four turns, then gather it up and leave it in a cold place or ice-box for half an hour. Roll the paste into a ten-inch square, put it on a plate about nine and one-half inches in diameter, and with a sharp knife trim round the edges ; put another plate about seven inches in diameter in the center, dip a sharp pointed knife in hot water and cut round the smaller plate, allowing it to go two- thirds of the way through the paste. Put the paste on a flat baking-tin and bake it for three-quarters of an hour, taking care not to allow it to burn. When the vol-au- vent is taken from the oven, lift out the center piece and scoop out the inside with a spoon. Fill it with one and one-half pounds of cooked salmon that has been heated in a thick cream sauce. Place the cover on again and serve immediately. Baked Salmon Trout. Clean and wash a salmon trout, salt it well both inside and out and let it stand for an hour ; wash off all the salt, dry it, stuff it with fish forcemeat, tie up the head to keep it in shape, put the fish upon a well-buttered drainer in a fishkettle, pour over eight ounces of butter sauce, add two quarts of mushrooms, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a blanched shallot, also chopped, a small quantity each of salt, pepper, grated nutmeg and ground spices. Pour in one quart of white wine, bring the liquor quicklv to the boil, place the kettle in the oven and cook slowly and gentlv for an hour. Take out the fish and skin it ; untie the head, cover it with rasped bread, pour over a little warmed butter, place the fish in the oven for about five minutes, dress it on a dish and serve with one-half its strained stock poured over and the re- mainder in a sauccboat. Boiled Salmon Trout. Clean a salmon trout, rub it well with salt, and let it remain for an hour Wash it thoroughly and wipe it dry ; stuff it with fish forcemeat, tie up the head, place it on a buttered drainer in a fishkettle, pour over a strained mirepoix, and add two pints of white wine and an equal quantity of fish stock or broth. Bring the liquor to the boil, remove it to a slow fire and simmer it gently for an hour and a half. Take out the fish, drain it, remove the skin, glaze over, place it on a dish, garnish with cooked truffles and serve with mirepoix sauce in a sauceboat. Salmon Trout, Modern Style. Clean and salt a salmon trout as for plain boiling, stuff it with fish forcemeat, tie the head up carefully, place the fish on a drainer In a fish kettle, sprinkle it over with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, put in a bunch oi sweet herbs, a clove of garlic and one pound of butter, pour in one quart oi champagne and set it to boil. Remove it to the side of the fire, where it will simmer gently, but constantly for FISH. 75 two hours, basting it frequently with its own liquor. Take out the fish, remove the skin carefully, glaze the surface, place it on a dish in the oven, glaze it once more, allow it to remain for about ten minutes, then take it out, untie, put it on a serving- dish, garnish with parsley or any other garnish that may be desired, and serve with the strained liquor from the fish in a sauccboat. Baked Sardines. Skin a dozen sardines, put them on a dish in the oven, and heat them through. I'ut the oil from the sardines into a small saucepan, and when it boils mix in one breakfast cupful of water ; stir it over the fire until thick, then add one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and season with salt and cayenne pepper ; move the sauce- pan from the fire, and add the yolk of an egg that has been beaten together with one teaspoonful each of vinegar and mustard. Take the dish of sardines out of the oven, pour the sauce over them and serve while hot. Broiled Sardines. Select a dozen good-sized, firm sardines, place them in a double broiler and broil for two minutes on each side over a very brisk fire. Place six pieces of toast on a hot dish, lav the sardines on, being careful not to break them, pour over one-half gill of maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with half a dozen quarters of lemon and serve. Curried Sardines. Mix together one teaspoonful each of sugar and curry powder, one teacupful of cream and a few drops of lemon juice; stir it in a saucepan over the fire until hot, then put in six or eight sardines. When they are thoroughly heated lay them on a hot dish with some fried slices ol apple and onion, pour the sauce over, place an edg- ing of boiled rice all round, garnish the tops with capsicums and serve while hot. Deviled Sardines. Scrape the skin off some sardines, split them lengthwise, lift the bones out care- fully, trim them neatly, and spread a small quantity of made mustard over them; sea- son with moderate quantities of salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon juice. In about an hour's time lay the sardines on a gridiron and broil them over a clear fire. When delicately browned lav them on a hot dish over which has been spread an or- namental dish-paper or a folded napkin and serve. Garnish with fried parsley. Sardines in Papers. Drain the oil from some sardines, then scrape and bone them; fill them with a mixture of chopped mushrooms, fine herbs, and cold brown sauce. Wrap them care- 76 FISH. fully in paper, fastening it securely at the ends, and warm them in the oven. Place the sardines on a hot dish and serve. Sardines, Maitre d'Hotel. Skin a number of sardines, cut off their tails, arrange them on hot buttered toast on a dish, and heat them in the oven. Put one teacupful of white sauce in a sauce- pan, mix with it one tablespoonful of finely chopped onion and a small quantity of chopped parsley, boil it for a few minutes, then add one tablespoonful of chili vine- gar and one pinch of cayenne pepper. Remove the dish of sardines from the oven, pour the sauce over them, and serve without delay. Sardines, Piedmontese. Scrape some sardines and place them in the oven to heat. Put in a saucepan four well beaten yolks of eggs, one teaspoonful each of tarragon vinegar, malt vinegar and made mustard, a small quantity of salt, and one-half tablespoonful of butter. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is quite thick, but do not allow it to boil. Cut some slices of bread, remove the crusts, and fry them in boiling lard or butter until lightly browned. Drain the pieces of bread, arrange them on a hot dish, pile the sardines on them, pour the sauce over and serve. Baked Shad. Pare and scale a small shad, place it on a well buttered deep baking-dish and season with one pinch of salt and one, half pinch of pepper, adding two finelv-chopped shallots and one-half wineglassful of white wine. Cover the whole with a piece of buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. When done, pour the liquor into a saucepan, add one-half pint of German sauce, a pinch of finely- chopped chervil and a small quantity of spinach : cook for three minutes longer, pour a little of it through a strainer over the fish and serve the balance in a sauceboat. Baked Shad, American Style. Clean a shad by drawing the entrails through the gills and wash and drv it. Pre- pare a stuffing with breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and butter, moisten with egg to bind and stuff the fish with it; place it in a baking-dish over slices of uncooked pol pour in sufficient fish broth to moisten, cover with buttered paper and bake. Serve with a quantity of rich sauce or thickened stock in a sauceboat. Broiled Shad. Remove the scales from a large shad, clean it well, cut off the fins and on both sides. Place the fish in a deep dish with some chopped shallots, parsley, oil FISH. 77 and salt and let it macerate for one hour. Grease a gridiron well, warm it, and lay on the fish ; broil it over a clear fire, turning it occasionally and basting it with oil. The shad will require from thirty to forty-five minutes to cook, according to its size. When ready, place the fish on a folded napkin on a hot dish garnished with parsley and serve with a sauceboatful of maitre d'hotel sauce. Broiled Shad with Sorrel. Scale and draw a shad which has a soft roe, cut off the fins, wipe it, and make incisions on both sides. Place the shad in a deep dish, baste it with oil, season to taste with salt and pepper, and let it macerate for one hour. Broil the fish over a clear fire, turning and basting it frequently with the oil in which it is soaked. Boil a quantity of sorrel as for garnish, make a border of it on a hot dish, place the shad in the center, pour over a little parsley sauce and serve, accompanied by a sauceboatful of the sauce. Fried Shad. After the shad is cleaned and washed split it down the back, cut out the back- bone, divide the fish into pieces about three or four inches square, and lav them on a clean dry cloth. Have in readiness a drippingpan, or a large fryingpan containing hot tat one-half inch deep, roll the fish in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, put it into the fat when smoking hot and fry it brown on both sides; use a broad spatula or cake turner to turn over the pieces in order to preserve them entire. As quickly as the pieces brown lift them out of the pan, lay them on brown paper for a moment to free them from fat, and then turn them on to a hot dish. Serve with lemons. pickles or cucumbers. Planked Shad. Procure a hardwood board about an inch and a half thick, and split the shad as for broiling, put it on the board with the skin side down and fasten it with some tacks, and put the board over the fire, roasting until done, and rub it every once in a while with a little butter. The plank should be well seasoned and be heated before placing the shad upon it or it will flavor the fish with the wood. When done turn it on to a hot dish, dredge over it some salt and pepper, and cover it with small bits of butter and serve with lemon cut in quarters. Broiled Shad's Roe. Wash a shad's roc in cold water, wipe it dry on a clean towel, place it between the bars of a double wire gridiron, thickly buttered, and broil until brown on both sides. When cooked serve it with butter, lemon juice and parsley, pepper and salt. nisli of sliced cucumbers may be served with the broiled roe. A dish of mashed potatoes should also accompany it. 78 FISH. Broiled Shad's Roe with Bacon. Wash thoroughly six pieces of shad's roe, wipe wch with a towel, lay them on a dish and season with one good pinch of salt and two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil. Roll them gently to avoid breaking, arrange them on a broiler and broil for six minutes on each side. Remove from the fire, lay them on a hot dish and pour over one gill of maitre d'hotel butter. Garnish with six slices of broiled bacon and six quarters of lemon and serve. Shad's Roe Croquettes. Broil the roe for fifteen minutes in salted water, then drain and mash it. Boil one pint of cream; mix four tablespoonfuls of corn starch with one-fourth pound of butter and stir it into the boiling cream; add the strained juice of two lemons, a little salt, cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg and the roe. Boil all together, then take the saucepan off the fire and leave the contents until cool. Shape the mixture into croquettes, dip them in beaten eggs and breadcrumbs, repeating the operation twice. Put the croquettes in a frying basket, plunge them into boiling fat and brown them quickly. When cooked drain the croquettes, place them on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve. Fried Shad's Roe. Steep the roe in cold water. (Care should be taken in removing it from the fish not to break it.) Wipe the roe dry, place it in a fryingpan with a small quantity of lard, and fry until nicely done. When cooked place the roe on a folded napkin laid on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve Boiled Sheepshead. Wash and clean the fish well, rub it over with dry salt, and soak it in cold water for an hour. Remove it from the water, wipe dry, score it several times across both sides, and rub it with a lemon cut into halves. Lay the fish on a drainer over a fish kettle, cover it with cold water and milk cquallv mixed, add one tablespoonful of salt, let it gradually boil, and then gcntlv simmer for half an hour. In dishing the fish be careful to transfer it from the kettle to the dish without breaking it. Pour a little of the cooking liquor round and serve the balance in a sauceboat. Fried Fillets of Sheepshead. Remove the fillets and dip them in salted milk, and roll them in Hour and then in egg and fresh breadcrumbs, and fry them in hot fat. Arrange them on a napkin on a hot dish, overlapping one another, and serve them with Bearnaise, Mayonnaise or Tartare sauce. FISH. 79 Boiled Skate with Black Butter. Boil the skate till tender with small quantities of onion, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, pepper, salt and vinegar in the water. Put some fried parsley in the center of a hot dish, and piace some black butter around it. Divide the skate into kite- shaped pieces, put them on the butter and serve. Baked Fillets of Skate. Skin the fish, divide it into fillets, and dry them on a cloth. Put the fillets into a saucepan with a lump of butter about the size of a walnut, two slices of lemon and a bunch of herbs. Dredge over them a small quantity of flour, then pour in one- pint of milk. Add a lump of salt. When three-fourths cooked, drain the fillets, put them on a baking dish, and bake them in a slow oven until nicely browned. Place the fillets on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve with a sauce boatful of mixed herb sauce. Skate, Italian Style. Put a skate into a saucepan with a clove of garlic, one bay leaf, one or two sprigs of thyme, a small lump of butter, two cloves, and salt and pepper; dredge in a little flour, and cover the fish with milk. Boil gently until the skate is cooked, then remove and drain it. Put in with the cooking stock a few boiled button onions, and boil quickly for a few minutes. Sprinkle some grated cheese at the bottom of a deep dish, put the skate on it, place the onions and some fried sippets of bread round it, and strain the sauce over; cover the top with grated cheese, and bake it for fifteen minutes in a brisk oven. When ready, serve the skate in the same dish. Stewed Skate with Caper Sauce. Wash and clean a skate, place it in a saucepan with one sliced onion, a bunch of green onions, two bay leaves, and a small bunch of parsley and thyme; cover the fish with water, add a small quantity of vinegar, season with pepper and salt, and stew it gently until tender. When cooked drain the fish, place it on a hot dish, cover it with caper sauce and serve. Baked Smelts. Clean eighteen or twenty smelts, wipe them very dry, and put them on a baking dish with two table-spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs, one-half wine-glassful of white- wine, one-half pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper, and cover with six whole mush- rooms and one-half pint of Spanish sauce. Sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs and a little warmed butter, place the dish in a hot oven for ten minutes, and serve with the juice of half a lemon, and sprinkle over one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. The smelts can be boned if desired. 8o FISH. Smelts, Bearnaise. Split twelve large or eighteen medium-sized smelts down the backs, remove the backbones, rub them with one tablespoonful of oil and season with one-half pinch of salt and one-third of a pinch of pepper. Broil them in a double broiler for two min- utes on each side, pour a little over one gill of Bearnaise sauce on a dish, arrange the smelts carefully on top, garnishing with a very little demi-glaze sauce round the dish and serve. Smelts, Boulangere. Clean and dry the fish on a cloth, dip them into very thick cream and then dredge them thickly over with flour forming a paste round them. Put some lard in a fryingpan and when very hot put the fish in and fry them till of a light golden brown. Arrange the smelts on a dish paper or a folded napkin placed on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve. Fried Smelts. Clean and dry the fish, roll them in beaten egg and then in finclv grated bread- crumbs ; dredging a little flour and salt over them. Put a good-sized lump of butter into a fryingpan, and when hot put in the smelts and fry them quickly. Drain the fish when richly browned, place them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley and serve. Smelts in Matelote. Put a chopped onion, a sprig of parsley, two or three mushrooms and a small piece of garlic into a saucepan ; pour over them a small quantity of oil and season with salt and pepper. Clean the smelts, put them into a stewpan, pour over one teacupful of champagne and let them simmer gently until cooked. Place the smelts on a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon juice over and serve. Smelts Sauted in Brown Butter. Remove the gills, clean and wash the smelts, and when well dried roll them in flour. Place a lump of butter in a fryingpan, and when it is hot put in the smelts and brown them, turning when done on one side. Arrange some slices of hot but- tered toast on a dish, put the fish on them and serve at once. Stuffed Smelts. Cut off the fins of eighteen or twenty fresh medium-sized Long Island smelts and wash and dry them well; remove the insides without splitting the stomachs open, then stuff them with a fish forcemeat, using a paper cornet for the purpose. Place the smelts on a well-buttered baking dish (silver if possible), and cover them with FISH. 81 one pint of Italian sauce. Place them in a hot oven and bake for eight or ten min- utes; remove, squeeze over the juice of a lemon and serve in the same dish. Smelts, Toulouse. Take twelve or fourteen good-sized smelts, remove the bones and then close them up again. Put them in a stewpan with one-half wineglassful of white wine and three tablcspoonfuls of mushroom liquor; season with one-half pinch of salt and one- third pinch of pepper and cook over a moderate fire for six or eight minutes. Arrange the smelts on a dish; add to the sauce a dozen button mushrooms, two sliced truffles, six fish quenelles, and moisten with one-half pint of allemande sauce. Thicken with one tablespoonful of butter and pour the sauce over the smelts. Neatly dress the garnishing round the dish and serve with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread. Baked Sole with Wine Sauce. Clean, trim off the gills and dark skin, and scrape the white side of a large sole; make a deep cut on each side of the backbone, and cut off the fins. Butter well the inside of a grating pan and put in the sole ; season with a little pepper and salt, and pour in one pint of French white wine, and bake in the oven for twenty minutes. Put about one ounce of butter into a saucepan with two tablcspoonfuls of flour and stir over the fire until well mixed, then add one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of water and a little pepper and salt ; stir the sauce over the fire until boiling. When cooked strain the liquor off the sole into the sauce, boil the whole together, and then move the pan to the side of the fire; put in one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and stir it until the butter has melted. Put the sole on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Broiled Sole. Clean and skin a sole, sprinkle both sides with pepper and salt, and squeeze a small quantity of lemon juice over it ; dip the sole in warmed butter, cover it well with finely grated breadcrumbs, place it on a gridiron, and broil it over a clear fire, turning it when brown on one side and browning the other. Bone an anchovy, put the flesh into a mortar with a small lump of butter, and pound it, then place it in a small saucepan with one wineglassful of white wine, and the strained juice of half a lemon, and stir it over the fire for a few minutes. When cooked, place the sole on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it and serve. Soles, Colbert Style. Skin and trim the soles and boil them. Blanch the hearts of four heads of endive, put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter, and stir over the fire until hot ; then pour over one pint of stock that has been thickened with the yolk of egg beaten 82 FISH. with a little cream, and add three or four poached eggs. Place the soles on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Fried Fillets of Sole. Place a sole in a deep dish, season it with chopped sweet herbs, salt and pepper, cover it with white wine, and leave it to soak for half an hour. A few minutes before serving fillet the sole, dip the fillets in milk, dredge them well with flour, and frv them in lard. When nicely browned, place the fillets on a folded napkin laid on a hot dish and serve. Fillets of Soles in Cases. Put one teacupful of finclv minced mushrooms into a frying pan with two table- spoonfuls of chopped shallots and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, add a lump of butter and season with pepper and salt. Toss the above ingredients over the fire until cooked, then put them by until cold. Fillet the soles, mask one side of them with the above mixture, roll them up, secure them with a piece of thread, place them between two buttered plates and bake them. Prepare some white sauce. Put each fillet into a small paper case, place a small mushroom on the top of each, fill up the cases with the hot sauce, and serve them at once. Fillets of Soles, Joinville. Procure the fillets of three soles, fold and lav them in the shape of a crown, in a well-buttered and flat stewpan, adding half a glassful of white wine and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, seasoning with half a pinch of salt and pepper and cook for six minutes over a moderate fire ; then arrange the fillets on a dish, place at the side of the stove, reduce the gravy to one-half, adding one cooked lobster claw, one truffle and three mushrooms, all of which have been cut julienne- shaped, add to this half a pint of Allemande sauce, stir it thoroughlv and pour it over the soles previous to serving, sticking a piece of truffle and a mushroom button into each fillet, also in each one stick a pickled shrimp with head erect, and serve. Fillets of Sole, Orly. Remove the fillets from the soles, place them in a dish with pepper, salt and pour plenty of lemon juice over them, and allow them to soak for thirty or forty minutes. Put the trimmings of the fish into a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs ami one-half pint of white wine, season with salt ami pepper, and boil the sauce till it is partly reduced. Rub some flour over the fillets and frv them in boiling tat. When cooked, drain the fillets, lay them on a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with the sauce in asauceboat FISH. 83 Fillets of Soles, Parisian Style. Place the fillets of a pair of soles in a saucepan with a finely-chopped onion and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; cover them with butter that has been melted, seasoning with salt and pepper. Toss the soles about over a moderate fire till cooked, taking care not to allow them to burn. When done arrange the fillets on a hot dish, pour over some Italian sauce and garnish with lemon and parsley. Fillets of Soles, Provincial Style. Fillet two soles and place them in a stewpan with a teacupful of white wine and a small quantity of olive oil; add a little chopped parsley, garlic, nutmeg, salt and pepper, and let them simmer gently by the side of the fire for half an hour. When cooked arrange the fillets on a hot dish, squeeze some lemon juice over, garnish round with some slices of fried onions, and serve. Fillets of Soles, Rouenncse. Skin a pair of soles and separate the fillets from the bones, spread them with lobster butter and double them over. Butter a baking sheet, put the fillets on it, squeeze a little lemon juice over, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake in a slow oven. It will require about ten minutes to cook them. Put three-fourths of an ounce of butter into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it over the fire until mixed; then pour in gradually a teacupful of fish stock and continue stirring it over the fire until boiling. Mix with the sauce one-half teacupful of cream, some Union juice, cayenne pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles. Arrange the soles on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Fillets of Sole with Anchovies. Fry the fillets of a sole in a little salad oil, season them with salt and pepper, and press them between two dishes until cold. Bone and clean four anchovies, and divide each one into four fillets. Cut the fillets of sole into pieces about the same size as the anchovv fillets, mix them together and pile them on a dish. Mix with a teacupful of salad oil, one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and one chopped capsicum. 1'our the dressing over the fish, and serve it. Fillets of Soles with Oysters. Separate the fillets from the bones of some soles, trim them and fry them in a little butter. Fix a bread croustade on a hot dish, and fill it with oysters mixed with allemande sauce. When cooked arrange the fillets round the croustade, pour a little allemande sauce over and serve with a sauceboatful of the same. 84 FISH. Fillets of Soles with Ravigote Sauce. Place some fillets of soles in a saucepan with a lump of butter, the juice of half a lemon and a little pepper and salt, cook over a slow fire, but do not brown them. Pour two and one-half teacupfuls of white sauce into a saucepan, with one and one- half teacupfuls of white broth, and boil for three or four minutes, keeping it well stirred. Mix a little chopped chervil, parsley and tarragon with two ounces of fresh butter and stir it into the sauce, with two teaspoonf uls of tarragon vinegar, seasoning with salt and pepper and stirring it over the fire for a minute longer. Place the fillets on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve. Soles, Marechal. Skin, clean and marinade a pair of soles and fry them plain, having previously dipped them in egg and breadcrumbs. Let them get cold, trim them, brush over with warmed butter mixed with beaten yolks of eggs and salt, cover them with fine breadcrumbs mixed with grated Parmesan cheese; pour a little more warmed butter over, lay them on an oiled gridiron, over a slow, clear fire, and broil for about twenty minutes, turning them over so as to color both sides equally. When done place them on a dish, pour round some more maitre d'hotel sauce and serve. Sole, Normandy Style. Lay a thick-skinned sole in the bottom of a stewpan, having previously buttered the latter, and put in with it about a dozen mussels that have been blanched in boiling water, eighteen or twenty oysters, a chopped onion, a bunch of thyme and parsley, some trimmings of truffles, and a few pieces of butter. Pour in one teacupful each of chablis and broth, season with salt and pepper, place the lid on the stewpan and let the contents simmer until nearly done. Put into a stewpan some trimmings of veal and bacon with some chopped vegetables, pour in one-half pint of broth, mix in a lump of butter that has been worked with a small quantity of flour and boil the sauce for twenty minutes. When three-fourths done put the sole in a dish that will stand the heat of an oven, mix its cooking liquor with the sauce and strain them both in a clean stewpan; then add the beaten yolks of two eggs and stir it by the side of the fire until done and thick. Pour the sauce over the sole, put the mussels, oysters and some sauted mushrooms on the top, and garnish round the sides with heart-shaped croutons of fried bread. Cover the dish with a sheet of buttered paper, and finish cooking the contents in the oven. When cooked serve the fish in the same dish placed on a large flat dish covered by a folded napkin. Paupiettes of Soles. Skin the soles, then lift the fillets carefully from the bones and trim them. Prepare some whiting forcemeat, spread a layer of it on each fillet, roll them, and FISH. 85 wrap each one in a separate sheet of buttered paper, keeping them in shape by tying a string around them. Bake the paupiettes in the oven. When cooked remove the paper, place them on a hot dish, with a turned mushroom on each, pour over some Allemande sauce and serve. Stewed Soles with Oyster Sauce. Scrape a pair of thick soles, leaving on the skins, and steep them for a couple of hours in a little vinegar, with a dust of pepper and salt over them. Place the soles in a fishkettle with the vinegar and one pint of boiling fish stock, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. When cooked, place them on a hot dish, pour over some oyster sauce, and serve. Baked Trout. Scrape and clean about six pounds of trout, draw them through the gills, wash well, and wipe them inwardly. Stuff them with forcemeat, put them into a baking- pan over a quarter of a pound of melted butter ; cover over with a little mushroom liquor or a few mushrooms chopped, also with slices of pork, and sprinkle over three or four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, a can of mushrooms without any liquor, and one tablespoonful of minced parsley ; also salt and pepper to taste. Pour over about one-half pint of stock, place the pan in the oven and bake for half an hour, basting frequently with the liquor in the pan. When done, take the trout out, place them on a dish, and serve with a garnish of potatoes. Trout, Beyrout. Clean a large trout, dry it on a cloth, dredge it over with flour, place it on a gridiron over a clear fire and broil it. When done take it off, remove the skin, place it on a dish, pour over beyrout sauce or fish sauce and serve. Boiled Trout. Scale and clean three or four large trout, place them in a saucepan, pour over two breakfast cupfuls of boiling vinegar, which will have the effect of turning them blue, and an equal quantity of white wine, and pour over sufficient water to cover them. Add one onion, stuck with cloves, one carrot, half a bunch of celery, four or five bay leaves, a small bunch of parsley, one teaspoonful of pepper corns and salt to suit the taste ; set the saucepan over the fire and boil for about fifteen minutes, with the cover on. When done, remove the fish, drain them, place them on a folded napkin spread on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with oil and vinegar, or any fish sauce, in a sauceboat. 86 FISH. Broiled Trout. Clean a trout, wipe it carefully, tie it up into shape, cover it over with one table- spoonful of salt, mixed with four or five ounces of butter, and let it remain for three minutes. Then place it on a gridiron, over a clear fire, and broil it gently for fifteen minutes or so. Chop up a well-washed and boned anchovy, stir it up with a little melted butter in a saucepan, add one tablespoonful of capers, one dessertspoonful of vinegar, and a little salt, pepper and nutmeg. When done, put the trout on a dish ; boil the sauce for two or three minutes, pour it over the fish and serve at once. Broiled Trout with Bacon. Wash and clean a trout well, slit it down the belly and remove the backbone. Put a strip of bacon in place of the bone, tie the fish into its original shape, place it on a gridiron over a clear fire and broil it. When done place it on a dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve. Brook Trout. All trout should be clean and cooked as quickly as possible after catching, as in consequence of the extreme delicacy of the flesh it soon deteriorates after death. The recipes following this one may be equally applied to all kinds of trout. Croquettes of Trout. Cut off the fillets from two cold boiled trout, divide them into squares, cover them over with chopped onions and chervil, squeeze over a small quantitv of lemon juice and roll them up into croquettes, dip them into villeroi sauce, then into egg and breadcrumbs twice so as to have them well covered, plunge them into a frvingpan of boiling fat and fry them to a good brown color. When done take them out, drain, and place them on a napkin spread on a dish and serve with parsley for garnish. Fillets of Trout, Aurora. Cut the fillets from three trout, form them into any desired shape, place them in a sautcpan with a little warmed butter, sprinkle over with salt and pepper, and cook them quickly over the fire until they are done, turning them often so as to have them well done on both sides. Place them on a dish, pour over a quantity of aurora sauce, or sauce made red with lobster spawn, and serve without delay. Fillets of Trout, Sauted. Separate the bones from the fillets, cut each fillet into halves. put them in a buttered sautepan, season with salt and pepper and fry them over a brisk fire. Put one-half pound of lobster butter into a saucepan, with the volks of four or five eggs, the juice FISH. 87 of a lemon, and a little salt and pepper, and stir all together over a clear fire till well mixed; then pour in one half-pint of melted butter and two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovv. Stir the sauce till thick and on the point of boiling, then move it off the fire. When cooked place the fillets on a hot dish, strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them and serve. Fried Trout. Choose small trout, wash and clean them well, and cut off their fins. Season one or two tablespoonfuls of flour with salt and pepper, and roll the fish well in it. Put a large piece of lard or clarified fat in a stewpan, and place it over the fire; when the blue smoke rises put in the fish and fry them until nicely browned. When cooked drain them on a sheet of kitchen paper in front of a clear fire, then place them on a hot dish over which has been spread an ornamental dish-paper, or a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve. Trout, Hussar Style. Scale and clean a trout, draw it by the gills, and stuff it with butter mixed up with finelv-choppcd sweet herbs. In stuffing great care must be exercised to see that the skin is not broken. Rub the fish well with warmed butter or oil, sprinkle it over well with pepper and salt, put it on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil it ; or it may be put in a dish in the oven and baked. Place it on a dish when done and serve with poivrade sauce, in a sauceboat. Trout in Papers. Take half a dozen trout of one-fourth pound each in weight, and stuff them with fish forcemeat. Oil as many pieces of paper as there are fish, place a slice of salt pork on cither end of each piece, lay a trout on top, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, fold the paper and tie it securely with a string. Cook in a baking-dish in a moderate oven for twenty minutes or so, and serve them in their envelopes, after removing the strings, with any sauce desired in a sauceboat. Trout, Venetian Style. Scale and clean a large trout, wash and dry it well, score it across the back and insert in the openings some butter highly seasoned with minced basil, lemon thyme, chives, and parsley. Put the trout in a dish, pour over salad oil to cover it, and let it remain for half an hour; then remove it, sprinkle over silted breadcrumbs stirred in with a small quantity of chopped herbs, place it on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil it for fifteen minutes or so, or until it is done. Place it on a dish and serve with orange sauce in a sauceboat. 88 FISH. Trout with Remoulade. Select some medium-sized trout and fry them in butter; when cooked place them for a minute on a sheet of kitchen paper, in order to drain off as much of the fat as possible. Chop in moderate quantities some chives, capers, parsley, chervil, water- cress and a small quantity of shallots; then pound these in a mortar and mix in one teaspoonful of French mustard, the beaten yolks of two eggs and one teacupful of salad oil. The oil must be mixed in drop by drop, so that it may incorporate thor- oughly with the other ingredients. When the sauce is perfectly smooth mix in a small quantity of chili vinegar. Spread an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin over a dish, lay the trout on it, garnish round with parsley and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat. Baked Turbot. Clean and wash a small turbot, place it on a dish, pour over a small quantity of hot butter, sprinkle with a little finely-chopped parsley, powdered mace, salt and pep- per, and allow it to remain for an hour. Lift the fish up carefully and place it in a baking dish. Brush it over with egg, then cover with sifted breadcrumbs, set it in the oven and bake. When done remove, put it on a dish and serve with any desired fish sauce. Boiled Turbot with Lobster Sauce. Place a turbot in a fish kettle with a bunch of parsley, a lump of salt, plenty of cold water and the juice of two large lemons. When the water begins to boil move the kettle to the side of the fire and let it simmer until the fish is tender. Have pre- pared the following sauce: Pick the meat from a hen lobster and cut it into moder- ate-sized pieces; place the shell and spawn in a mortar with a lump of butter and pound it until smooth, then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Make three-fourths of a pint of butter sauce, put the pieces of lobster in it, and season it with a very small quantity of cayenne pepper. When the sauce boils stir in the pounded mixture and one teacupful of cream, and move the pan to the edge of the fire. When the turbot is cooked drain it well, lay it on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded nap- kin, place a border of fresh green parsley round the dish and then a circle of quarters of lemon. Serve the fish while hot with the sauce in a sauceboat. The fish docs not require much boiling. Broiled Trout. Clean and wipe the fish quite dry, split it down the back and let it soak for nearly an hour in warm butter with chopped sweet herbs, salt, pepper and parsley; then cover it with sifted breadcrumbs and broil it over a clear fire. Serve with lemon juice or orange juice squeezed over. FISH 89 Fillets of Turbot with Cream Sauce. Separate the fillets from the bones of some cooked turbot, skin them, leave till cold, then cut them into collops. Put one tablespoonful of flour into a stewpan with four ounces of butter and one-half teacupful of cream, a pinch of cayenne pepper and a small quantity of glaze ; season to taste with salt, stir the sauce over the fire until it is thick, then remove it to the side and put in the fillets of turbot. Turn the turbot and sauce on to a hot dish and serve. If preferred, the mixture can be served in a vol-au-vent. Turbot with Black Butter. Remove the skin and bones from some cold cooked turbot and cut the fish into nice sized pieces. Put a large piece of butter into a stewpan and boil it until it comes to be of a dark color; then put in a moderate quantity of finely-chopped parsley and one wineglassful of tarragon vinegar. Season to taste with pepper and salt. Put the fish into the sauce and keep it at the side of the fire until heated through and through. Turn the fish with the butter on to a hot dish and serve. Vol-au-Vent of Fish, Normandy. Prepare a puff paste with one pound each of flour and butter and one ounce of salt. Roll the paste out to a thickness of about three-fourths of an inch, and cut it round to the size of the dish on which it is to be served. Place the flat of paste on a baking sheet, brush it over with beaten egg, and cut a circle through the middle about one-fourth of an inch deep, leaving an edge about one inch wide all round. Hake the paste in a moderate oven, and when cooked lift up the center piece which will have risen ; scoop out the uncooked paste, brush the inside with beaten egg, and place it in an oven for five minutes longer. Prepare a filling of scalloped fillets of soles, mussels, oysters and sliced mushrooms. Mix the cooking liquor of the mussels with some lean vcloute sauce, boil it until somewhat reduced, then thicken it with the beaten yolks of two eggs. Mix the sauce with the garnishing, place the cover of paste on, stand it on the dish it was made to fit, and serve. Deviled Whitebait. Wash the fish, drain well on a sieve, dry them in a soft cloth and then drop them on a well-floured cloth, carefully rolling each little fish over in it, so that they shall all be nicely and evenly floured. Put them immediately into a frying-basket, and dip them into extremely hot boiling lard ; hold it there for a very short time, lift the basket out of the lard, and dust the fish over with black pepper and a small quantity of salt ; some cooks clip them again into the boiling lard for a second, remove them, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, and serve. 9 o FISH. Fried Whitebait. Wash the fish, drain well on a wire sieve, dry them in a soft cloth, and then drop them, when quite dry, on to a well-floured cloth, rolling each fish carefully in it. Put them immediately into a frying basket, dip them into extremely hot lard, hold it there until the fish is crisp, which will be before it browns, take it out while still white, and serve as quickly as possible on a napkin laid on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley, and quarters of lemon. Serve with them cayenne, grated lemon peel and thin slices of brown bread and butter. Baked Fillets of Whitefish. Scale some large whitefish, split them, remove the backbone, season the fillets with salt and pepper, and dip them in beaten egg, then in breadcrumbs, and again in beaten egg, then in breadcrumbs, and again in beaten egg. Put a lump of fresh lard in a baking dish, heat it, and then put in the fillets. Bake the fish in the oven for twenty minutes, until they are lightly colored. When cooked, drain the grease off the fillets, place them on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with potatoes and a sauceboatful of parsley sauce. Shell-Fish. Clam Fritters. Place some fresh clams into one pan, and the liquor trom them into another. Prepare a mixture of broken crackers and flour in equal quantities, and dip the clams first into their own liquor and then into this, repeating this operation three times ; finally dipping them into milk, and thru again into the flour mixture. Have prepared some boiling lard, drop in a few clams at a time, let them fry for about five minutes; then remove them with a skimmer, place them on a strainer, drain away the fat, and they are ready to be served. The pan containing the lard should be so deep that the clams will be covered when put in. Scalloped Clams. Wash thoroughly six or eight good sized clam shells, fill them with clam force- meat, flatten them with the hand, spread over sifted breadcrumbs, smooth with the blade of a knife, and moisten with a little clarified butter. Arrange them on a baking pan and bake until they are well browned, or for about six minutes. Place them on a hot dish, and serve at once, with sprigs of parsley for garnish. Stemmed Clams. Scrub the shells of some clams well in water ; then place them in a saucepan without any water, place them over the fire, and cook until the shells open. Remove the clams with a skimmer, pour the liquor into a jar and let it settle. There will be no use in straining the liquor through the finest strainer, but a piece of linen may be used, or if allowed to settle, and care be taken not to move the sediment, the water can be poured off. Remove the clams from their shells, pulling off the thin skin round the edge, and cutting off the whole of the black end with a pair of scissors. Plunge each clam into a small quantity of the liquor, and if at all tough cut that part through. When the water has settled pour it into a saucepan, add the clams and make it hot, though do not allow it to boil. Take out the clams and serve with brown bread and butter, toasted crackers, or on pieces of buttered toast. Stewed Clams. Remove about three dozen small clams from their shells, place them with two ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan, one pinch of chives and one pinch of finely 9< 92 SHELL-FISH. chopped chervil, adding one-half breakfast cupful of water, so that it may not be too salt; also a small pinch of pepper and two tablespoonfuls of sifted breadcrumbs, and boil for two minutes. Turn all out on to a dish and serve with the juice of half a lemon squeezed over. Little-Neck Clams Served Raw. Wash a number of these clams in water, scrubbing them with a brush, wipe them dry on a cloth, open and cut them clear from their shells. Place five on a plate on the half shells, placing half a lemon in the center of the plate, and serve with crack- ers and a small dish of finely chopped cold cabbage. Soft Clams, Ancient Style. Take a dozen nice, large, soft clams, wash them well and open them, keeping only one part of the shell with the clam. Put a piece of butter on each clam and plentv of Paprika pepper and a little strip of raw bacon. Put the clams on a roast- ing pan, which place in a hot oven for about ten minutes and serve it on the pan in which the clams have been cooked. Fried Soft Clams. Thoroughly wash one bunch or one pint of soft clams taken out of their shells in cold water to free them from sand and lay them separately on a towel to dry; have ready a frying kettle about half full of fat and place this over the fire. While the fat is heating, prepare a dish of beaten raw eggs and a platter full of bread- crumbs or cracker dust; roll the clams in the crumbs, then dip them in the beaten eggs ; roll them once more in crumbs, and when the fat is smoking hot, place them in it and fry to a golden brown. Take them out with a skimmer, lay them on brown paper to drain off the fat and serve hot. They may be sent to the table with a gar- nish of lemon cut in quarters or a dish of sliced fresh or pickled cabbage. Soft Clams, Newburg. Thoroughly clean and remove all sand from about forty to forty-five soft fresh clams, place them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, half a pinch of white pepper, a wincglassful of Madeira wine and a couple of well-hashed truffles, place on the lid and cook gently for about eight minutes; then break three egg yolks into a bowl, add a pint of sweet cream and beat thoroughly for about three minutes, then pour it over the clams, stir gently the clams for three minutes longer and pour them into a hot tureen, sending to table at once. SHELL-FISH. 93 Stewed Soft Clams. Thoroughly wash about three and a half dozen of fresh soft clams so that no sand remains on them after they are opened, lay them carefully on the palm of the left hand, and with the right hand remove the body with care, but nothing more, being cautious not to break it and throwing away all the other parts. When all are pre- pared place them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, a small pinch of white pepper, one wineglassful of Madeira wine and two finely-hashed medium sized truffles; place the cover on the pan and cook gently for seven or eight minutes. Break the volks of three eggs into a bowl, add one pint of sweet cream and beat well for three minutes. Pour this over the clams and toss the saucepan for about three minutes more very gently to thoroughly mix the clams with the cream but not letting the liquor boil again. Neither fork nor spoon should ever be used in mixing them. Pour the whole into a hot dish and serve at once. Crabs. Crabs arc in season from April to September, and in May they lose entirclv the dryness of flesh for which they are noted during the winter months. The richest flavored crabs are those of medium size, say from six to ten inches in their broadest diameter. They should be boiled alive, being plunged into cold water, and, as the water warms, a handful or so of salt should be thrown in upon them, and when the water has been boiling for twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of the crabs, they may be considered sufficiently cooked. If placed in hot water at first, they are apt to throw off their claws by a violent jerk, and then the water would soak into the flesh and make it sloppy. After the salt is thrown in, the scum which rises to the top of the water should be carefully skimmed off. The claws of large crabs should be tied to prevent their opening anil pinching or injuring each other. Crabs are usually sold ready boiled, which is, of course, a great convenience to the cook, whose next care is that of selection. The best crabs arc always heavy, accord- ing to size; the claws and legs should be all on. They should be firm and stiff, and the eyes bright rather than dull. The male crab has larger claws than the female, but less body in proportion, therefore selection should depend upon whether the pref- erence leans to white meat or to the more mellow liver and creamy fat which sur- rounds it. The female also has a much broader tail than the male. Buttered Crab. Remove the meat from a large boiled crab, cut it up small and mix with bread- crumbs and chopped parsley, having about a third of the bulk of the crab meat. Season and put a few pieces of butter over it ; pack it back in the shell, pour over a little lemon juice, cover with a layer of sifted breadcrumbs, place a few more lumps of butter on the top, set in a slow oven and cook until done. 94 SHELL-FISH. Crab Croquettes. Remove the meat from the shells of two medium-sized crabs, and chop it fairly fine. Melt in a saucepan three ounces of butter, and stir into this three ounces of flour. Add gradually one-half pint of milk, stir until it boils, and then allow it to cook for ten minutes; remove the saucepan from the stove, and to the hot milk, flour and butter add the chopped meat of the crabs, one saltspoonful of pepper, one tea- spoonful of salt, a small quantity of cayenne (not more than would lie on the end of a small knife blade), mix thoroughly together, turn the whole out on to a plate and let it cool; when it is fairly cold make it into little rolls nearly three inches long, and egg and breadcrumb these by brushing them all over with beaten egg and then rolling in breadcrumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified fat for two minutes, or until they are a nice golden brown, allow them to drain on a sheet of paper for an instant and serve on a folded napkin with a little fried parsley for garnish. Deviled Crabs. Put one-half pound of butter into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour, and cook together, stirring it continually to prevent its burning; add to it one large tumbler- ful of rich cream, one boiled soft onion mashed to a paste or pulp, a little grated nut- meg, and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Then put in the crab meat, enough to fill eight crab shells and a raw egg or two, stir all together well and cook until it begins to thicken, which will only take a few minutes; then pour it all on a flat dish and allow it to stand until cold. Now fill the back crab shells with the mixture, egg them over with a brush and cover with grated breadcrumbs or cracker dust. Place them in a bakingpan, put a small lump of butter on top of each, and bake in a slow oven to a light brown color, or fry them in plenty of hot lard. Crabs in Shells. Boil a few crabs, pick out the meat and place the coral on one side. Chop up the meat, add to it one onion, ground ginger, lemon juice, mushroom catsup, salt and pepper; put the mixture into a fryingpan with butter and cook until the butter is absorbed. Pour in a little stock, boil until nearly evaporated, then remove the pan from the fire. Butter five of the crab shells and fill them with the mixture. Grind the coral, mingle it with some breadcrumbs, sprinkle this over the mixture, put a few small lumps of butter on the tops, place the shells in the oven, and bake for a few minutes. Minced Crabs. Place the finely chopped meat of three crabs into a saucepan, pour over one wine- il of white wine and one of vinegar, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Cook over a moderate fire for about ten minutes, and add two SHELL-FISH. 95 ounces of warmed butter, mixed with one boned anchovy, and stir in the well beaten yolks of two eggs. Sprinkle in sufficient breadcrumbs to thicken properly, turn the whole out on to a dish, and serve with parsley for a garnish. Crabs, Queen Style. Pick about a dozen hard-shell boiled crabs into as large pieces as possible ; mix them in a salad bowl, with one-half breakfast cupful of sliced celery or shredded lettuce, one-half pinch of pepper, one pinch of salt, one tablespoonful of olive oil, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Refill six well cleaned shells with the salad, and on each one lay one tablespoonful of mayonnaise sauce; and sprinkle over with chopped hard boiled egg, the yolk separated from the white, some crab or lob- ster coral, and one tcaspoonful of chopped parsley, every article to be used sepa- rately in order that each color may be distinct. Serve on a dish with a folded napkin, or ornamental dish-paper. Crab Ravigote. Boil some large hard-shell crabs, after which put them aside to become cold. Then turn them over on the hard shell side and with a sharp knife cut the breast away. Pick the meat off, clean it nicely, being careful not to leave any pieces of shell in it, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Mix with thick remoulade sauce and fill up one of the shells, which has previously been washed clean, with the mix- ture. The meat of two good-sized crabs so treated will be sufficient to fill the inside of one shell. Cover the meat with mayonnaise and decorate with fillet of anchovy and sliced pickles. Serve on a folded napkin with branches of parsley and quartered lemon. Stewed Crabs. Take eight live crabs and steam for twenty minutes; pick out the meats, put it in a saucepan with one-half pint of milk or cream and stew for fifteen or twenty min- utes. Season with cayenne pepper and salt. Broiled Soft-Shell Crabs. Dip some soft-shell crabs into melted butter and season with pepper and salt. Then put them on the fire and broil them until the shells are slightly brown. As soon as they are done serve them hot with melted butter or lemon juice or with a lemon cut into quarters. Slices of hot dry toast may be laid under them Fried Soft-Shell Crabs. Have a dish of cracker dust mixed with a little pepper and on the stove a pan half full of smoking hot fat; beat two eggs, roll the crabs in the crumbs and dip them 96 SHELL-FISH. in the eggs, then roll them again in the crumbs and put in the hot fat to fry. Take them out with a skimmer, lay on brown paper to free them from grease and serve them while hot. Stewed Soft-Shell Crabs with Okras. Brown in a saucepan with one-half ounce or so of butter a chopped onion, an ounce or more of raw ham cut into dice, half of a green pepper pod, also cut into dice, one-half tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Moisten with about one quart of white broth or consomme, add a tablespoonful of uncooked rice, six sliced okras, also a sliced tomato. Allow all these to cook thoroughly for about twenty minutes, and five minutes before serving add the meat of three well-washed, minced, soft-shell crabs. Fried Oyster Crabs. Wash and dry about one and one-half pints of oyster crabs, dip them first in flour, and then in cold milk, and finally in cracker dust or well sifted breadcrumbs. Shake them up well in a colander, and fry in hot fat for two or three minutes. Serve in croustades made of short paste, garnish with parsley, and sprinkle a little salt over before serving. Stewed Oyster Crabs, Poulette Style. Remove all the meat from a pint and a half of oyster crabs, put it into a sauce- pan, pouring on a little of their liquor, and add to this one ounce of butter, pepper and salt ; parboil for three or four minutes, add carefully one breakfast cupful of Hollandaise sauce, stew for two or three minutes longer, but do not boil, add the juice of half a lemon and one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley ; stir gently, and it will then be ready for use. Crayfish Boiled in Court Bouillon. Put some butter in a stewpan, and add a little celery root, onion and leek, all finelv minced, place the pan on a moderate fire and fry them. Then add a little white wine, salt, a small bunch of parsley, and a few peppercorns. Boil for seven or eight minutes, and then throw in twenty-five live crayfish; cover over the pan and boil for eight minutes longer. Toss them in the pan a little, remove, place on a strainer to drain, and then on a dish. Strain the liquid, reduce it by boiling to half its original quantity, add a small piece of butter, and pour it over. Crayfish, Bordelaise Style. Place two dozen selected crayfish in a pan with water and a little milk mixed, and allow them to soak for two or three hours; then remove them and place on a strainer to drain. In the meantime make a good mirepoix of vegetables with Bor- SHELL-FISH. 97 deaux wine, and add to the liquor a bunch of parsley, a slice of raw ham, one small wineglassful of cognac, two or three tablespoonfuls of Madeira and a little salt. Put the lid on the stewpan, place it on the fire, and let boil five or seven minutes; when it is boiling hot throw in the cravfish, and leave for ten minutes, after which pour the liquor through a sieve; reduce it to half, adding slowly one pint of veloute sauce. When sufficiently reduced strain it through a cloth into another pan, and stir in one- fourth pound Of good butter, a small piece of crayfish butter, and one tablcspoonful of finely chopped parsley. Remove the small claws, put them in a group in the center of the dish, and arrange the bodies round, garnishing all with a few sprigs of parsley. The sauce must be served separately. Crayfish Mariniere. Remove the small claws from a dozen or two of crayfish, place them in a stew- pan, and boil with wine until done. Drain off the liquor, allow it to settle, and then pass it through a fine sieve to clarify it. Take an onion, chop it up finely, and fry gently so that it does not color at all. Pour on a little of the crayfish liquor and also a little wine, and boil for three minutes. Next put in a lump of butter worked into some breadcrumbs and finely-chopped parsley to thicken it, and finally add a little cayenne and the juice oi a lemon. Place the crayfish on a dish and pour the sauce- over. Crayfish Patties. Place two dozen crayfish into a stewpan with a little salt, a few peppercorns, some finely chopped vegetables, a bunch of parsley and a little vinegar or white wine ; cover over the pan, place it on a good fire and when the fish have cooled a little re- move the meat from the tails and claws and cut it up into small pieces, placing them in a small stewpan and thickening with a little white sauce. When wanted for serving fill a dozen or so of (bouchees) patties with the preparation and garnish with lobster coral and parsley. Timbale of Crayfish. In order to have this dish sufficient for a large party a great number of crayfish are required for it. Having picked out the tails of something like one hundred and fifty crayfish, brush each one over with some warmed crayfish butter. Have ready some very dear savoury jelly and a large timbale mould ; warm the jelly to the liquid state, pick up each tail with a larding needle and dip into the jelly ; then arrange them neatly around the mould; the jelly will cause them to adhere. When the top is reached (remember the mound will be upside down and should be packed in ice) leave the jelly fixing the tails to set. Pick out all the meat from the claws and bodies and chop up very finely; mix this mince with enough warm jelly to fill the timbale and leave that also to set. When the jelly is firm, dip the mould for an instant in tepid 9 8 SHELL-FISH. water, wipe it and then turn the timbale out on to a dish. Garnish with croutons of jelly and an attelette decorated with truffles. Edible Snails. Snails are cleaned by placing them in boiling water with some wood ashes and leaving them until they have thrown their cover wide open which will take about a quar- ter of an hour ; they should then be removed and picked carefully out of their shells with a fork. Put them in a basin of tepid water and leave for two or three hours. .Afterwards rub them well in the hands and wash them in several changes of cold water, The shells are put in warm water, scrubbed with a brush and then wiped dry. Baked Edible Snails. Work one tablespoonful of chopped parsley into two ounces of butter, and season with one saltspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Put a piece of the prepared butter into each of the shells (there should be about twenty-five shells for the above quantity of butter), then put a snail into each of the shells, and another piece of butter on top. Lay the snails close together in a cast iron pan, the mouths of the snails upwards, and not one upon another ; cover the pan so as to render it air tight, and put it into a moderate oven. When the parslev begins to look dark, the snails will be sufficiently cooked. Arrange the snails on a hot dish with a folded napkin, leaving them in their shells, and serve as hot as possible. Edible Snails, Bourgoyne. Take some Bourgoyne edible snails, disgorge them with a little salt for two or three days, wash several times in cold water, strain and place them in a stewpan covering them with water. Add a bunch of sweet herbs, some cloves and whole pepper tied in a cloth, and salt to taste; cook until the snails fall from their shells, empty them, clipping off their tails, and cleaning the shells well. Mix together some shallots, parsley and butter, and chervil chopped very fine ; put this into a bowl with an equal quantity of sifted breadcrumbs and one wineglassful of white wine, season to taste with pepper and salt, and knead well. Tartly fill the shells with this mixture, replace the snails, and complete the filling with more of the kneaded butter ; spread breadcrumbs over, and lay them on a baking dish, the opened part on the top. Brown in the oven for four minutes, and serve on a dish with a folded napkin. Baked Frogs' Legs. Prepare and clean one dozen frogs' legs, put a thick layer of minced mushrooms and sifted brown breadcrumbs in a baking dish, lay the pieces of legs on them, season with salt and pepper, strew a few Sweet herbs over, also more sifted crumbs, put two or three small bits of lemon peel on the top, squeeze over the juice oi a lemon, and SHELL-FISH. 99 pour in about one breakfast cupful of brown gravy. Cover the whole with a sheet of buttered paper and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. When cooked, brown them under a salamander, and serve in the same dish. Broiled Frogs' Legs. Prepare eighteen frogs as follows: Lay the frogs on their backs. Make a long incision from the neck along the side of the belly; make another at right angles across the middle of the belly, dissect cut the entrails and cut away the head, leaving only the back and legs. Skin the frogs and chop off their feet, wash them thoroughly and blanch in scalding salted water. Then lay the hindquarters on a dish and pour over two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, seasoning with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice. Roll the frogs around several times in this seasoning, place on a broiler and broil for four minutes on each side. Take them off, arrange on a hot dish and serve with a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce poured over. Fricasseed Frogs' Legs. Prepare twelve saddles or hindquarters of frogs as above and put them in a flat- bottomed saucepan with a little butter and a very small quantity of finely-minced shallot. Place the pan on the fire and cook until the butter begins to brown, then pour over a teacupful of sherry, cover the pan and stew for twenty minutes; skim off most of the butter and add cayenne and salt to taste. Put the yolks of four eggs and two tablespoonfuls of cream in the stock to thicken, mixing the eggs in a little of the hot liquor before adding them, and as soon as the contents of the pan show signs of boiling remove it from the fire. Place the frogs on a dish with the legs sticking out all around and the thick part forming a circle in the center; strain the sauce and pour it over them. The wine and eggs are not always used in the cooking. Fried Frogs' Legs. Prepare eighteen frogs' legs and put them in a bowl with a marinade composed of one tablespoonful each of vinegar and sweet oil and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well together in the bowl, immerse them in frying batter, plunge them singly into very hot fat and fry for five minutes. Drain, arrange on a hot dish with a folded nap- kin and garnish with parsley. Any desired sauce may be served with this dish. Stewed Frogs' Legs. Melt half an ounce of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and in it brown one chopped onion, about one ounce of raw ham cut into dice, half a green pepper pod cut small, half a tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of pepper; moisten with one quart of white broth or consomme; add a tablespoonful of rice, six sliced gumbos ioo SHELL-FISH. and one sliced tomato, and cook thoroughly for about twenty minutes. Add a quarter of prepared frogs' legs five minutes before serving. Turn out on a dish and serve. If desired, one green pepper and two tomatoes may be substituted in place of the gumbo. Lobster, American Style. Procure two good sized freshly boiled lobsters and split them, removing all of the meat very carefully, and cut it up into pieces about an inch in length; and have- in readiness a pan on top of a range half full of good olive oil, and when the oil has become very hot add pieces of the lobster. Chop very fine one peeled onion, one green pepper, and half a peeled clove, some sound garlic, place it with the lobster and cook for five minutes, stirring all the time; season with a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper, to which add half a wineglassful of white wine. After two minutes' reduction add one gill of tomato sauce and a medium sized peeled tomato, cut into small dice. Continue cooking for ten minutes, gently stirring the while, then pour the whole into a hot dish or tureen and serve. Baked Lobsters. Place a live lobster in boiling fish broth; when it is cooked, drain and split it in half lengthwise, pick the meat out of the tail and claws, cut it in small pieces, and mix in an equal quantity of mushrooms, also cut in dice. Place the coral of the lobster in a mortar with a little butter, pound, and pass it through a fine hair sieve. Put a few tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce in a stewpan with a little cream and melted glaze, stir over the fire until it is well reduced, then mix with it the pi< lobster and mushrooms, sprinkle in a little cayenne, and add the pounded coral. Clean the two shells of the lobster, fill them with the preparation, sprinkle bread crumbs on the top, pour a little warmed butter over each, and brown in the oven. Place a folded napkin on a dish, lav the shells on it, and serve at once. Boiled Lobster. Place some water on the fire, and when it is boiling fast put the lobster in, head first, so that it may be killed at once. Place the lid on and let the lobster boil for half an hour. Take it out and leave it until well drained, then wipe off the scum and rub it over with a little piece of butter tied in a cloth. Lobster Bordelaisc. Cut some live lobsters into eight pieces, crack the claws without spoiling the shape, put them in a saucepan and cover with white wine, a little garlic, two bay leaves, a small bunch of parsley and thyme, and a little pepper and salt ; place the lid on the saucepan and let the mixture boil for twentv five minutes, stirring often to SHELL-FISH. 101 prevent burning. When they are cooked take each piece of lobster out, dry in a cloth, and replace them in a clean saucepan. Fry a few slices of onions and shallots in butter, and when they are browned stir in a little flour, cook it, then pour in some of the liquor in which the pieces of lobster were cooked. Stir over the fire for ten minutes, then mix in a teacupful of tomato sauce, a pinch of cayenne, the pieces of lobster, and warm them again. Arrange the lobster on a hot dish in such a way that they will not have the appearance of being cut, put the claws around, pour over the sauce and serve. Broiled Lobster. Take a live lobster, and after it has been boiled split it lengthwise, and pick out all the uneatable parts ; open it flat, place two small pieces of butter on it, and dust over with pepper ; place the halves of the lobster, just as they were in their shells, on a gridiron, and heat slowly over a fire. When done put them with their shells on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve. Broiled Lobster Ravigote. Cut three small raw lobsters each into two equal parts, taking out the gravel from the head, season with salt and pepper, rub with a little oil and broil the pieces lor ten minutes. Remove them from the fire, take the meat from the heads of the lobsters, put them in a salad bowl with half a pint of ravigote butter and mix them well together; take the rest of the meat from the lobster, dip it in the sauce and return it to the shell; then replace and warm it again for a few minutes in the oven and serve on a folded napkin, garnish the shells with parsley and serve the sauce in a boat. Buttered Lobster. Pick out all the meat of a lobster and mince it finely, mix it with the coral and green inside, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and one saltspoonful each of cayenne and made mustard; place this in a stewpan with the chopped meat over the fire till thoroughly hot. Cut in quarters some lettuce, arrange them on a dish, pour in the hot lobster, put some quarters of hard boiled eggs on the top and serve at once. Lobster Cream. Pick the meat from a boiled lobster and chop it small; place it in a saucepan, season to taste with salt and pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg; moisten with half a tablespoonful of vinegar and one teaspoonful of sherry, stir it over the lire until hot, then dredge lightly with flour and add two ounces of butter and a tea- cupful of cream. Stir the mixture while it is boiling and let it cook for ten minutes. Wash the body shell of the lobster and dry well, then pour the mixture into it. Place the lobster on a fancy dish and serve it while very hot. 102 ■ SHELL-FISH. Lobster Croquettes. Carefully pick the meat from a lobster, mince finely, and mix it with one heaped teaspoonful of finely grated breadcrumbs, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream,, the strained juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a little grated nut- meg, pepper and salt, and stir over the fire until it is very hot. Then take it off, mix in the beaten yolk of one egg and leave until cold. Shape the lobster prepara- tion into little balls, brush over with beaten eggs, plunge them into boiling fat and fry. When they are cooked, drain and arrange them on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve. Curried Lobster. Take the meat from some small lobsters and place it in a saucepan with one tea- cupful each of gravy and cream, and half a blade of mace. Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry powder with one teaspoonful of flour, and one ounce of butter, put in with the lobster and simmer at the side of the fire for an hour. After it is done add some lemon juice and a little salt. Turn it on to a hot dish and serve. Lobster Cutlets. Take out the meat from a large hen lobster or two small ones, place it in a mortar with some of its coral, and pound, mixing with it a little powdered mace, grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, and cayenne ; beat the yolks of two eggs and the white of one together with a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce ; then mix them with the above ingredients. Roll out, sprinkle a little flour over, and form it into the cutlets; dip a paste brush in beaten eggs, brush the cutlets over, roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry in boiling butter. Put one pint of melted butter in a saucepan with the coral and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, and make it hot. When the cutlets arc browned, drain, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce in the center and serve. Deviled Lobster. Put three minced shallots in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and the brown meat of the crab; fry until the shallots are lightly browned, then pour in half a pint of milk, add half a tablespoonful of chutney, and season with salt, pepper and a small quantity of cayenne. Stir the whole over the fire until it is thick, then put in the lobster chopped. Have a metal table shell, till it with the lobster mixture, strew a layer of grated breadcrumbs over the top, baste with three tablespoonfuls of warmed butter and brown in the oven. When done place the shell in the middle of the dish and garnish with parsley. Lobster Fricassee. Partially boil some lobsters. Pick the meat out of the claws and tails and cu /■hem into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with two breakfast cupfuls ol luchanie SHELL-FISH. 103 sauce and let the contents stew gently for several minutes. Strain the juice of half a lemon into the fricassee, turn it on to a hot dish and serve at once. Fried Lobster. Take the meat out of the tails and claws of a lobster and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dip a paste-brush in beaten egg, and brush the meat with it, then roll it in breadcrumbs, and after they have dried on it repeat the operation. Place it in a fry- ing basket, plunge it in boiling fat and fry until it is brown. Drain and place the lobster on a hot dish and serve with a sauceboat of tartar sauce. Lobster Fritters. Chop the meat of a lobster and a few skinned prawns, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter and place on the fire until they are hot. Roll out some good paste, cut it into rounds with a cutter, place them in a flat stewpan with boiling lard, and fry until they are nicely browned ; drain, pile some of the lobster mixture on each, arrange them on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve. Lobsters in Casserole. Cut the tails of some boiled lobster into scallops, and place them in a circle in a silver casserole. Fry some chopped shallots in a little butter for a few minutes, then pour in a little sherry wine and finish cooking. When they arc done pour over the shallots some Spanish sauce and tomato puree, mixed in equal quantity, stir and boil for five minutes, and dust in a little cayenne pepper. Cut the meats of the lobster claws in small dices, put in the center of the casserole, pour over the sauce, stand the casserole in the oven for ten minutes to warm the lobster and serve. Lobster in Shells. Cut an equal quantity of lobster meat and mushrooms into dice. Boil some veloute sauce, together with some essence of mushrooms till properly reduced. Then thicken it with fresh butter and lobster butter in equal proportions, and mix in the lobster and mushrooms. Fill some table shells with the preparation, sprinkle bread- crumbs over the top, pour over a little warmed butter, and bake in a hot oven until browned. Place the shells on a hot dish and serve. Lobster, Newburg. Pick all the meat from the shells of two good sized freshly boiled lobsters, and cut it into one-inch pieces, which place in a saucepan over a hot range together with one ounce of fresh butter, season with a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper, two medium-sized truffles, cut into dice-shaped pieces, after cooking for five ic 4 SHELL-FISH. minutes add a \\ ineglassful of Madeira wine; reduce one-half, say about three to four minutes, then have in readiness three egg yolks in a bowl with half a pint ot sweet cream, and beat well together, adding this to the lobster, gently stir for two minutes longer until it becomes thick, pour into a hot tureen and serve. Lobster on Skewers. Take a freshly boiled lobster, cut it into squares, lav them in a bowl to season, with salt, a pinch of pepper, half a pinch of nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of Wor- cestershire sauce; mix these ingredients well together. Have six skewers and arrange on them first a piece of lobster, then a mushroom, another piece of lobster, then another piece of mushroom, and so on. Lay them on the broiler and broil for eight minutes. Take them off, dress on a hot dish on six slices of broiled bacon, pour over a gill of maitre d'hotel butter, and serve while they are very hot. Lobster Patties. Take the flesh from the shell of a boiled lobster, cut it into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with some lobster sauce. Prepare some puff paste, give it six turns, then roll it out flat on a floured table. With a fluted cutter cut out some rounds, place them on a baking dish, lav them on ice for ten minutes, then brush them over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg. With a plain tin cutter cut through a third of the thickness of the paste, dipping the cutter in warm water evcrv time; this will form the cover when baked. Place the patties in a quick oven and bake them. When they are cooked lift off the inner circle of the patties, scoop out a little of the soft paste inside, and smooth over the surface. Have the lobster warmed, turn it into the patties, and put on the covers. Arrange them on a fancy dish, and serve while they ' part that is taken from the body of the lobster, pounded, passed through a sieve and worked up with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Pour this sauce over the lob- ster and serve at once. Stewed Lobster Bordelaise. Add to one wineglassful of red wine in a stewpan one chopped shallot and half of a small carrot, cut into exceedingly small pieces. Boil for five minutes, put in the meat from two bailed lobsters, cut into pieces, which should weigh about one and one-half pounds, one pinch of salt, one-third pinch of pepper, and a very little nut- and finally one-half pint of vcloutc sauce. Stew well together for five minutes and serve very hot. Lobster Vol-au-Vent. Rub together four tablespoonfuls of butter and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of flour. Pour on this by degrees one pint of boiling white stock, boil up, and add the juice of half a lemon, a little salt, a few grains of cayenne, the yolks of two eggs beaten in a little cold water, and the meat of two small lobsters cut into dice. Stir over the fire for one minute, fill a vol-au-vent case, place the cover on and serve. Fried Mussels. Pick some mussels out of their shells : remove their beards, dip them in milk, cover with breadcrumbs well seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in a fryingpan until they are of a light brown color, place them on a dish in a warm place, pour a little of their liquor in a pan, add a little pepper and salt, if required, and sprinkle in a few breadcrumbs, and then add a little butter. When it is quite hot pour it over iof> SHELL-FISH. the mussels and serve at once. The mussels may be previously pickled, but it is not necessary. Mussels in Shells. Procure some small mussels, they being the most delicate, scrape the shells and wash them in several waters, to remove all the grit. Put the mussels in a stcwpan with one sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, and one pint of French white wine ; season with pepper and salt, stand the pan over the fire till the shells open, when the mussels will be done. Take them cut of their shells, clean thoroughly, and cut them into halves ; strain the cooking liquor of the mussels into another saucepan, mix with it an equal quantity of veloute sauce, and boil until reduced to about half of its original quantity. Thicken the sauce with a lump of butter or a liaison of two yolks of eggs, stirring by the side of the fire and not allowing it to boil after the eggs are added ; put the mussels in the sauce with one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Fill some silver shells with the above mixture, cover with finely grated breadcrumbs, put a small bit of butter on the top of each, and brown in the oven ; when cooked, arrange the shells on an ornamental dish paper or a folded napkin that has been placed on a hot dish, garnish with neat sprigs of fried parsley, arranging it here and there between the shells, and serve. Mussels, Matelote. Wash and clean some mussels, put them into a saucepan over a clear fire, and toss or hustle them until the shells open. Turn the mussels into a colander placed over a pan, so as to save all their liquor, and remove the half shells, beards, etc. : put two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots and a clove of garlic into a saucepan with a little butter, and fry without letting them take color ; put in the mussels, pour over one wine-glassful of wine and the mussel liquor, place the pan over the fire, boil for a few minutes, thicken with a piece of butter kneaded with finely minced breadcrumbs, parsley and a little cayenne, and toss the pan for a little while longer until all the butter is melted. Put them in a metal dish, pour over the liquor, stand in another dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very hot. Mussels, Poulette Style. Take some mussels that have been hustled or plainly cooked, remove the half shell that does not contain the fish, take off the beard and weed, remove any young crabs there may be, and put them on a dish either piled up or packed closely together In the meantime prepare a little melted butter, made with the mussel liquor instead of water and a good quantity of butter, and sprinkle over a little pepper and sufficient vinegar to give it a sharp taste; make this mixture hot. pour it over the mussels and serve at once. Nutmeg, mace, or chopped parsley and chives may be added to the ii desired to heighten the flavor. SHELL-FISH. 107 Scalloped Mussels. Put some mussels into a saucepan and toss them over a quick fire for a few minutes until the meat will come away easily from the shells. Take out the beards, weeds, etc., remove the fish from their shells, squeeze all the liquor out of them, and add to it that which came from them while being cooked : strain it into a sauce- pan, put in the mussels and warm them up, adding a little flour, butter, grated nut- meg and pepper ; care must be taken not to let them boil and not to use any salt, as they generally contain sufficient. Clean some scallop shells, cover them with bread- crumbs, put a layer of the mussels over it, then another layer of breadcrumbs and another of mussels ; moisten them with a few tablespoonfuls of the liquor, put a layer of crumbs on top, place on it a few pieces of butter, scatter over a little dried parsley, and put them in an oven to cook until thev are a bright brown. They may be browned in a salamander instead of the even, if desired, and must be served hot. Stewed Mussels, Mariniere. Steam three dozen mussels in a saucepan for about ten minutes, without any water. Take them out, remove half of their shells, put them into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, a small quantity of chives and finely-chopped chervil, a very little pepper and a teacupful of finely-sifted breadcrumbs ; pour over one-half breakfast cupful of water and boil for two minutes longer. Turn the whole into a dish, squeeze over the juice of one-half of a lemon, and serve. The mussels should be arranged in the dish with the half shells downwards. Garnish with parsley and quarters of lemons. Mussels, Villeroy. Wash and thoroughly cleanse some mussels, changing the water five or six times, if necessary, and remove the sinewy strings that are to be found inside, put them into a saucepan, pour over a wincglassful of white wine, toss them over a fire until the shells open, then turn them into a colander over a pan and let them drain. Pull them out of their shells, and when they are cool dip them into a little villeroy sauce ; arrange on a baking sheet, and when the sauce has cooled sprinkle them over with breadcrumbs, repeating it to have them thoroughly covered. Plunge them into a frvingpan of boiling fat, fry to a light brown color, then take them out, drain, put them on a napkin on a dish, and serve with a garnish of fried parsley. Oy sters. Oysters are in season eight months in the year, .he four " close " months being May, June, July, and August; the other months having the letter " r " in their spell- ing, accounts for the saving that oysters arc in season when there is an " r " in the month. The oyster (ostrea cdulis) is found on almost every coast, being especially io8 SHELL-FISH. cultivated in certain localities, and yielding enormous crops, as it is estimated that one oyster alone produces in one year from three to four thousand young. The system of cultivation has been brought to great perfection, and the superior kinds of oysters are carefully preserved from contamination with inferior sorts. Of the numerous kinds of oysters sold in our markets, it is only necessarv to state that those possessing the smallest, smoothest and cleanest looking shells, from the high class native, down to the lowest types, are the best flavored. For serving plain, no ovstcr excels the blue points, but for cooking a coarser and cheaper kind may be used with almost as good results. Oysters must be kept alive, and as they are liable to fret and waste in substance while in captivity, they require frequent change of water, and occasional feeding or fattening as it is called. The following is the svstem usually adopted: Take some fresh oysters, put them in a tub of water, wash or scrub them with a birch or heather broom until they are quite clean, then lay them in an earthen- ware pan with the flat shell upwards; sprinkle them with flour or oatmeal, and cover with salted water (quite as salt as sea-water), bay salt being the best for this purpose. Change the salt water every day and sprinkle the oysters with oatmeal or flour, and they will fatten. Sometimes it is necessary to preserve ovsters for culinary use, especially in localities where they are scarce or the supplies insufficient. When this is the case, the following will be found an excellent method of preparing them so that they will keep good, although not fresh, and be alwavs ready for use. ' Clean the oysters thoroughly, put them in a large saucepan with some sea-water. the juice of half a lemon, and some grated nutmeg. When the water is on the point of boiling move the saucepan off the fire, and leave the oysters in the Liquor till the following day. Put them into stone or earthenware jars, pour over some clarified butter, and when cold, cover and tie the jars down; keep them in a cool place. Oysters should be kept in a very cold place, and should be thoroughlv washed before they are opened; they should, according to the French custom, be opened on the deep shell so as to preserve their liquor; it is then advisable, if possible, to lay them on a bed of finely chopped ice for an hour or so before serving; this improves the flavor greatly, but they must not be left on the ice much longer, for after that time they will begin to lose flavor, instead of gaining it. Ovsters, American Style. Place in a sauce bowl one heaped teaspoonful of salt, three-fourths teaspoonful of very finely ground white pepper, one medium sized fine, sound, well peeled shallot, one heaped teaspoonful of chives, and one-half teaspoonful of parsley, all very finely chopped. Mix lightly together, and then pour in one teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops of Tobasco sauce, one saltspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, ami lastly one gill (or five and one-half tablcspoonfuls) of good vinegar. Mix it thoroughly with ,i spoon, and it is ready lor use. A teaspoonful should be poured over each oyster just before eating. SHELL-FISH 109 Baked Oysters. Put in a small lined stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter and one teacupful of cream, stirring them well over a fire until thoroughly mingled. Add one wineglassful of wine, one tablespoonful of anchovy sauce and a small quantity each of cayenne pepper and grated lemon peel, and continue stirring over the fire until hot. Pour half of this mixture into a dish and lay the oysters on it. Strew Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs over, with a little salt and pepper, pouring on the remainder of the cream and butter, with another thin layer of crumbs and cheese on top. Bake until nicely browned in a brisk oven and serve while hot. Baked Oysters in their Shells. Open some oysters, remove the beards and dip them first in beaten egg and then in finely grated breadcrumbs that have been seasoned with pepper, salt and grated nutmeg. Place the oysters in their lower shells, put a small piece of butter on each. and bake for a few minutes in a brisk oven. When ready, place the shells with the oysters on a dish, squeeze a small quantity of lemon juice over each, and serve. Baked Oysters on Toast. Beard two dozen fine oysters, put their beards and liquor into a stewpan, and let them simmer for a few minutes. Butter some toasts thickly on one side, lay them buttered side downwards on a dish that will stand the heat of the fire and put the oys- ters on top. Strain the oyster liquor and mix with it one ounce of butter in small bits, season to taste with salt and a small quantity of cayenne pepper and pour it over the oysters. Place the dish in a brisk oven for a few minutes, then take it out and serve the oysters very hot with a plate of cut lemon. Oyster Bouchees. h two dozen oysters and turn ten mushrooms, cut both into small pieces, put them into a saucepan with some white sauce and stir over the fire till hot. Pre- pare some puff paste, giving it six turns, roll it out to about one-fourth inch in thick- ness, and with a fluted tin cutter, about two inches in diameter, cut eighteen rounds out of the paste. Arrange the pieces of paste on a baking sheet, let them rest on ice for ten minutes, then brush over with beaten cv;^, and with a plain tin cutter one and one-fourth inches in diameter cut through the center of each bouchec to about one- third of the thickness of the paste. Bake the bouchees in a quick oven, and when cooked lift off the inner circle of the paste and hollow them out inside. Fill the bouchees with the salpicon of oysters and mushrooms and replace the covers. Place a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, arrange the bouchees on it, garnish with fried parsley and serve. no SHELL-FISH. Broiled Oysters. Take some fine large-sized oysters, lay them on a soft cloth to dry, pepper over, and then place them on a well buttered gridiron over a clear fire and leave till thor- oughly hot. Lay them then on slices of well buttered toast cut rather thin and serve while hot. Broiled Oysters, Breaded. Take freshly opened oysters and an equal quantity of bread and cracker crumbs, flatten them on a well greased broiler and broil for two minutes on each side. Salt slightly and arrange on the toast, then lightly glaze them over with maitre d'hotel sauce and serve. Broiled Oysters, in the Shell. Put a couple of dozen large oysters on a gridiron over a moderate fire, with the flat shell uppermost; when done they will open. Keep the liquor in the shells and serve hot. Oyster Cocktail. Open half a dozen small oysters and drop them with the juice into a wine glass; add a little lemon juice, three drops of Tobasco sauce, a tcaspoonful of Worcester- shire sauce and one dessertspoonful of tomato catsup, stir well and serve. Horse- radish may be served on the side. Oyster Cromeskies. Scald the required number of oysters in their own liquor and put them between slices of bacon cut very thin. Two oysters are quite sufficient for one slice of bacon. Roll the bacon over and fasten the oysters in with a small skewer. Fry them to a nice brown, place them on a dish and serve hot. Oyster Croquettes. Blanch six dozen oysters, trim and chop the meat into small pieces, put these into a saucepan with one-third the bulk of mushrooms cooked and cut into small pieces. Set one pint of bechamel sauce in a saucepan over a clear fire, reduce it, stirring frequently, add a few tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor and a little cream. When it is well reduced and begins t<> froth, add a liaison made of the yolks of three eggs to thicken it, and lastly add a small quantity of butter. Stir in the oyster mix- ture, turn it out into a basin, and let it get quite cold, placing the basin if necessar) on ice. Take out small quantities, about the size "I .111 egg, roll them on a board sprinkled with breadcrumbs, make them round with spoons, and dip them fust int.) well beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs. Have read) a fryingpan of boiling fat, SHELL-FISH. in plunge them in a few at a time, and when they are done and of a good color take them out. drain, arrange them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve with a garnish of fried parsley. Oyster Croustade. Beard and cut some oysters into halves and put in a stewpan with their strained liquor, one wineglassful of white wine, and a moderate quantity of gravv; season to taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity each of grated lemon peel and pounded mace. Stew them gently, and when done place in them about one ounce of butter in small lumps. Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, scooping out the crumb, and put them into a stewpan of boiling butter, and fry until crisp and brown.- Rub the crumbs of the rolls up finelv and fry them also. Drain the rolls and fill them with the ovster mixture, placing on a hot dish with the crumbs around it, and serve. Curried Oysters. Peel and cut into thin slices a moderate sized Spanish onion; put a lump of butter into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter boils put in the onion and fry it until nicely browned. Next stir in three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, add more butter if necessary, and mix well over the fire. Pour in gradually a sufficient quantity of broth, put the lid on the pan and let the whole boil up. Grate a cocoanut and peel and chop a very sour apple, or, instead of the apple, a few tamarinds would be best if they could be obtained; put them into the stewpan with the other ingredients, and boil the whole slowly until the cocoanut is tender. Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour smooth with a little water, and stir it into the above mixture; season to taste with salt, stir and boil for five minutes. Put two or three tomatoes, freed from their seeds, inco a stewpan with a hundred oysters and their liquor, also the milk of the cocoanut. Stir them occasionally, and stew slowly for a few minutes. Add this to the former mixture. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, turn the curry on to a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, or sippets of toast, and serve with a separate dish of rice. Oyster Fricassee. Open and beard some oysters, put them into a stewpan with their own liquor, one ounce of butter ami the strained juice of half a lemon; season them with a small quantity each of cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg and let them simmer gently by the side of the fire lor a few minutes. Do not cook them too much or they will shrivel up. Beat the yolks of three eggs together with three tablespoonfuls of sherry, strain and pour in with the ovsters. Toss the whole over the fire for a minute, then turn them on to a dish and serve. SHELL-FISH. Fried Oysters. Select large oysters and drain them; mix one tablespoonful of flour smoothly with one-half teacupful of milk, grate some stale breadcrumbs on a sheet of paper and season with salt and pepper; roll the oysters first in the paste and then in the breadcrumbs, covering well but touching them as little as possible. Lay them on a plate and leave them for several minutes. Beat one or two eggs thoroughly, roll the oysters in it one at a time, then roll them again in the seasoned breadcrumbs. Put a large lump of lard in a frying pan over the fire and when blue smoke arises put in the oysters and fry them until nicclv browned. Take each oyster as it is cooked out of the fat and lay it on a sheet of paper in front of the fire to drain. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the ovsters upon it, garnish with fried parslcv and serve. Fried Ovsters and Bacon. Open and remove the beards from one dozen oysters, cut as many thin slices of bacon as there arc oysters, trim neatly and lay an oyster on each, rolling them up and fasten with a skewer. Fry each roll carefully and nicely. Cut as many rounds of bread about a third of an inch thick and two inches in diameter as there are rolls of bacon, toast them evenly on both sides and butter them. Spread a folded napkin or fancy edged dish-paper on a hot dish, place the pieces of toast upon it with a roll on each, garnish with fried parsley and serve. Fried Deviled Ovsters. Take one pint of oysters or sufficient to make a good dish, wipe them dry and lay them on a flat dish ; cover with butter well-warmed and mixed with cayenne pepper and lemon juice, turn them over and over in this mixture for ten minutes, then roll them in a paper of rolled crackers or sifted breadcrumbs; dip them into beaten egg and again roll them in the crumbs, fry them in boiling lard and butter mixed and serve as hot as possible. Fried Ovster Patties. Make some good puff paste, roll it out rather thin and cut it into round pieces, (hop some oysters, mix them with some chopped hard boiled egg, a little chopped parsley and a little grated lemon peel ; add a seasoning of pepper, salt and a little pounded mare, moisten the mixture with cream and a little oyster liquor, then put a good spoonful on each piece of paste, fold it over, moisten the edges with a little cream and press them together. Brush the patties over with the yolk of an egg and frv them for fifteen minutes. SHELL-FISH. Fried Truffled Oysters. Chop six ounces of the cooked breast of a fowl and three ounces of raw fat salt pork, put this into a mortar with a little pepper and pound it. Chop a few truffles the size of peas and mix in. Put four dozen oysters on a cloth and with a sharp knife inserted at the edge of one of them make an opening up and down inside, but not to make the hole too large and fill them with the mixture. Put them when all done into a basin of flour, coat them well over, dip them into well-beaten egg, plunge them into a fr\ ingpan of boiling fat and fry to a light golden color. Remove, drain on a cloth in a slow oven, sprinkle over with salt, arrange them on pieces of toast on a dish and serve. Oyster Fritters, Separate the yolk and white of an egg, beating the yolk well and mixing with it two tablespoonfuls each of ground rice and salad oil, three-fourths of a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small quantity of cold water. Mix smoothlv and allow the batter to stand for half an hour. Open and beard the oysters, whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow, and mix them in lightly with the batter. Then place a large lump of clarified fat in a flat stewpan over a fire until it boils. Take the oysters, one at a time, in a tablespoon and fill it with the batter, pouring it into the boiling fat. Fry until nicely browned, then drain well, spreading on a folded napkin or orna- mental dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the fritters in the center, garnish with cut lemons, and serve with a plate of thin slices of brown bread and butter. Oysters in Cases. Open and blanch a couple of dozen medium-sized oysters in a saucepan with one wineglassful of white wine and half an ounce of butter, and season with a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg. Cook for five minutes, and add one pint of well reduced veloute sauce ; cooking for another five minutes, and adding half an ounce of crav- fish butter and stirring occasionally. Fill the cases with four oysters each and the garnishing equally divided. Sprinkle over a little fresh breadcrumbs, and arrange them on a toasting pan. Spread a little butter over each patty, and place in a mod- erate oven for five minutes. Have a hot dish at hand with a folded napkin spread over it ; place the patties on it and serve. Oysters, Indian Style. Put one-half tablespoonful each of curry powder and flour in a small saucepan; mix in gradually a teacupful of cream, one tablespoonful of finely chopped onion and a small quantity of finely chopped apple, season to taste with salt and pepper, and stew the whole gently for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Put a teacupful of well washed rice in a saucepan of water and boil until tender. The rice should be ii 4 SHELL-FISH. quite dry when cooked. Put a dozen oysters in the sauce, add a little lemon juice, and leave until hot. Make a wall of the rice on a hot dish, and pour the oysters in the center. Serve while very hot. Oysters in the Shell. Put a dozen or so of large oysters on a gridiron over a moderate fire with the flat shell uppermost ; when done they will open. Preserve the liquor in the shells with the oysters and serve them hot. Oyster Patties. Turn a couple of dozen oysters into a basin with their liquor. Put one ounce of butter into a saucepan and work it together with a tablcspoonful of flour into a smooth paste ; when warm add a little mace, cayenne, and salt, and pour in gradually three tablespoonfuls of cream. Boil for a few minutes and pour in the strained liquor from the oysters, add the oysters last, and boil for a couple of minutes longer. Line some small patty pans with some thin puff paste, put a quantitv of rice in each to keep them in shape, cover the top with more of the paste and bake in a brisk oven. Take them out, remove the top, empty out the rice, fill them with the oysters and a little of the liquor, cover and serve. Oyster Pie. Line a pie dish with puff paste, and fill it with slices of stale bread; butter the paste that covers the edge of the dish, lay a cover of puff paste over the pie, press the edges very lightly together, trim them, and bake quickly in a hot oven. Mean- while drain the liquor from one quart of oysters and chop them fine with a sharp, thin bladed knife. Blend a teaspoonful of corn starch in a very little cold milk, pour over it one-half pint of boiling milk or cream, put it over the fire in a saucepan, stir till it thickens, and then add one ounce of butter ; when the butter has been well mixed in, season the chopped oysters with salt and pepper, stir them into the thickened milk, let simmer (stirring all the time), for five minutes, and then take from off the fire. When the bread pie is baked remove from the oven, and while still hot carefully take off the upper crust; remove the bread, and fill the dish with the thickened cream or milk and chopped oysters, replace the top crust, put the pie again in the oven till it is thoroughly hot and then serve. Oyster Poulette. Place thirty-six freshly-opened oysters in a saucepan with a little of their own liquor, one ounce of butter, half a pinch of salt and pepper and parboil for three min- utes, adding half a pint of hollandaise sauce: stew well together for two minutes r, but without letting the liquor boil, add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of half a lemon, stir slightly and serve very hot. SHELL-FISH. n 5 Scalloped Oysters. Strain the oyster liquor, rinse the oysters in it, then plump and beard them. Measure the liquor and add to it an equal quantity of rich white sauce; if this does not thicken it sufficiently add one teaspoonful of flour, rubbed into a small piece of butter, stir over the fire until pretty hot, stir until it boils and boil ten minutes, stir- ring occasionally. Put in the oysters and keep them nearly simmering for three min- utes, then put them into their shells with a little of the sauce, put a layer of sifted breadcrumbs on them, pour over this a little clarified butter and brown them in the oven. Spiced Oysters. Take a hundred fresh oysters, put them into a large earthenware pipkin together with their own liquor strained, half a nutmeg grated, eighteen cloves, four blades of mace, a teaspoonful of allspice, a very little cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of strong vinegar, and stir all these together with a wooden spoon. Put them in a moderately-heated oven or over a slow fire; take them irom the fire several times and stir them thoroughly; as soon as they come to a boil pour them in a pan and let them stand all night in a cool place. They will be ready for eating next da v. Steamed Oysters. Open and drain the required quantity of oysters, lav them in a steamer, which place over a saucepan of boiling water, cover them with a plate and cook for ten min- utes. When ready place the ovsters in a very hot dish, garnish with some croutons of brown bread fried in butter and drained and a few drops of lemon or vinegar poured over them. Dust lightly with salt and pepper and serve. Stewed Oysters. Open the shells of one dozen ovsters, take them out carefully and wash them in their own liquor until perfectly free from grit and pieces of shell, put them in a sauce- pan, strain the liquor twice, pour it over, place the pan at the side of the fire and let it simmer gently for a few minutes until done. Remove the oysters with a skimmer and put them on a dish in a slow oven to keep warm; add to the liquor one teacupful of cream and salt and cayenne to taste. Place the pan on the fire and when the liquor boils add two ounces of butter worked up with one teaspoonful of flour and continue to stir till it is all thoroughly mixed. Put in the oysters to warm up without boiling, remove the pan from the fire and stir in a little lemon juice. Have ready some pieces of bread fried in butter, arrange them on a dish, put the oysters on them, pour over the liquor and serve very hot. n6 SHELL-FISH. Stewed Ovsters, Baltimore Stvle. Open neatlv three dozen medium sized fresh oysters, place them in a saucepan without their liquor, and add one ounce of good butter; cover the pan, place it over the fire and cook for two minutes, then add one wineglassful of good Madeira wine and a very little cavenne pepper, cook together for two minutes longer and add one gill each of Spanish sauce and half-glaze. Stir thoroughlv until boiling, and just before serving squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add one-half ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of finelv chopped parsley, and serve immediately in a hot tureen. Stuffed Ovsters. Put the grated volks of four hard boiled eggs into a basin and mix in half the quantitv of minced bacon or salt fat pork, add a little pepper or chopped parslev and make them all into a paste bv adding the uncooked volk of another egg. Split open four dozen ovsters, stuff them with this mixture, put them in large ovster shells, coat them over with breadcrumbs, put a little warmed butter on top, place them in an oven and bake until done. Put them on a dish, garnish with pieces of fried bread and serve. Ovster Vol-au-Vent. Put the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters into a saucepan, add a little pepper ^cavenne) and the finelv chopped rind and strained juice of half a lemon. Put the pan on the fire, boil up the liquor and thicken with three ounces of butter rubbed into two tablespoonfuls of flour. Continue to boil till the liquor is reduced to one teacupful, strain it into another saucepan, add the oysters, place the pan at the side of the fire and simmer gently for five or six minutes, then stir in one teacupful of cream and keep the mixture warm. Prepare a paste as follows: Rub twelve ounces of butter into an equal quantitv of flour and mix in the juice of a lemon added to one egg beaten up in one teacupful of cold water. Make this into a paste, handling it as little as possible, turn it out on a well-floured board and roll it out to one and one- fourth inches in thickness. Cut it with a vol-au-vcnt tin cutter to take off the rough make it the required shape, cut round the top one-half inch from the edge and one-fourth inch deep and bake the vol-au-vent in a hot oven for forty-five minutes. When done carefully take out the center, remove the soft underdone paste and fill it up with the oyster mixture. Arrange the vol-au-vent on a napkin spread over a dish and serve with a garnish of fried parsley. Ovsters with Cream. Put a pint of cream in a saucepan with a small piece of onion and a little mace tied up in a muslin bag. Boil and stir in a tablespoonful of flour mixed with a little milk or cream. Put one quart of oysters in a saucepan with their liquor and boil SHELL-FISH. n 7 them for a few minutes until tender, skimming frequently. Remove the oysters, drain, put them in the saucepan with the cream, remove the onion and mace, pour it into a dish and serve hot. Oysters with Parmesan Cheese. Drain the oysters as free as possible from liquor ; spread a dish thickly with butter, lay the oysters on it, strew finely-minced parsley over them, season with pepper, pour one-half glass of champagne over and cover thickly with grated Par- mesan cheese. Put the dish into the oven, and when nicely browned on top, drain the fat carefully off the oysters, and serve, while very hot, in the same dish. Boiled Prawns. Place a pint of prawns, previously thoroughly washed, into a saucepan with enough water to cover them, adding salt in the proportion of one-quarter pound to each gallon of water; set the pan on a quick fire, and boil for eight minutes, skimming frequently ; then remove, drain on a sieve, and serve artistically arranged, interspersed witli parsley. Buttered Prawns. Remove from their shells three breakfast cupfuls of prawns, and dredge over them salt and pepper to taste, place them in a saucepan and pour over them two breakfast cupfuls of good rich gravy, and add a small lump of butter, well-kneaded with flour, to thicken it. Then place the pan at the side of the fire, and simmer gently for five to six minutes, after which, turn the prawns out onto a dish and serve. Baked Scallops. Take the scallops out of their shells and trim off the beards and all the black parts. Wash the deep shells of the scallops, dry them, put in the scallops, and pour one-half tablespoonful of vinegar over each. Blanch a bunch of parsley and chop it finely ; mix it with the grated breadcrumbs, season to taste with pepper and salt, and bind the mixture into a paste with a little milk. Spread some of the paste over each shell, strew a few dried breadcrumbs on the top, and put a small piece of butter on each. Place them in a brisk oven and bake for twenty minutes. Serve the scallops very hot and in their shells, on a folded napkin on a dish. Fried Scallops. Trim off the beards and black parts, clean the scallops well and drain them. Put a lump of lard into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire until blue smoke rises, then put in the scallops and fry them until lightly browned. Drain them for a moment on n8 SHELL-FISH. a sheet of paper, arrange them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin garnished with fried parsley, and serve. Stewed Scallops. Put some scallops in a stewpan with a half blade of mace, a little sugar and suf- ficient water to cover them ; stew gently by the edge of the fire for about thirty min- utes or until tender. Put one and one-half ounces of butter in a stewpan with one tablcspoonful of flour and mix it over the fire, then stir in some of the liquor in which the scallops were stewed, three tablespoonfuls of cream and flavor with a little grated nutmeg. Arrange the scallops on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them and serve. Shrimps and Boiled Rice. Make thick white sauce of one heaping tablespoonful of flour, one ounce of butter and one-half pint of milk ; flavor it sparingly with mace, cayenne and salt. Stir into the sauce one pint of shelled shrimps ; when they are thoroughly hot, pour them on to a hot dish, arrange around them a border of boiled rice and serve. Buttered Shrimps. Shell some shrimps and place them in a fryingpan with a lump of butter, a small quantity of salt and pepper, and stir them over the fire until hot. Fry some thin slices of bread in butter, drain when a golden brown and place them on a hot dish; pile the buttered shrimps on the bread and serve. Shrimp Cromeskies. Shell some shrimps and cut them into small pieces. Prepare some veloute sauce and reduce it to half its original quantity; move the sauce to the side of the fire, stir in the beaten volks of two eggs and one tablespoonful of butter divided into small pieces, continue stirring the sauce by the side of the fire, adding, when thick, the shrimps. Leave the mixture until cold, then divide it into equal parts and wrap each one separately in squares of udder; roll the cromeskies to the shape of a cork, dip them in frying batter, then plunge them into boiling fat and fry until crisp and nicely browned. When cooked drain the cromeskies, put them on a folded napkin or orna- mental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve. Shrimps, Normandy Style. Skin and remove the heads from one pint of fresh shrimps; put one ounce of butkr in a stewpan, place it over the fire until melted, then stir in one tablespoonful of ground rice; mix in one-half pint of new milk, and continue stirring until it is SHELL-FISH. 119 thickened and boiling. Then put in the shrimps and leave them until quite hot. When ready turn them on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread and serve. Shrimp Patties or Bouchees. Remove the shells from three or four pints of fresh shrimps; bone and chop finely three anchovies, mix them with the shrimps, and season to taste with pounded mace and cloves. .Moisten the mixture with about one and one-half wineglassfuls of white wine. Prepare some puff paste, roll it to about one-half inch in thickness, cut the paste into rounds with a two-inch tin cutter, then with a one-inch cutter cut half way through the middle of each round of paste. Brush the rounds over with a paste- brush dipped in the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake them in a quick oven. Heat the shrimp mixture in a saucepan over the fire, and when the patties arc cooked lift off the piece marked with the cutter, scoop out the soft inside, fill them with the mixture, cover with the small rounds of paste, arrange them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, garnished with fried parsley, and serve. Scalloped Shrimps. Prepare one-half pint of tomato sauce, and put in with it one-half pint of picked shrimps, and one wine-glassful of either red or white wine. Stir the above ingredients in a saucepan over the fire until hot, then turn them into a scallop dish; cover the top with finely grated breadcrumbs, put three or four lumps of butter over, and bake until browned. When well colored, take the dish out of the oven and serve the shrimps while hot. Stewed Shrimps. Pick one quart of shrimps, reserve their tails, and place the remainder in a stew- pan with one-half pint of water, and pour in a little vinegar; also put one-half blade of mace; let them simmer at the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring occasion- ally. Strain the liquor into another saucepan, add the tails, half of a grated nutmeg, a small quantity of salt, and two ounces of butter that has been worked with two tabic spoonfuls of flour, and stir them over the fire for about fifteen minutes. Toast a thin slice of bread, cut it into strips, place them at the bottom of a hot dish, pour the stew over them, garnish with parsley, and serve. The Diamond-Back or Salt-Water Terrapin. Three species of the genus Malacoclemmys inhabit the United States. By far the most important of these, and the most valuable of all terrapins is the Malacoclcm- mvs Palustris, or the "diamond-back terrapin." The other two species, the Geographic Tortoises, M. Geographica and M. 120 SHELL-FISH. Lesueuri are of a comparatively rare occurrence and are not used for food to any considerable extent. Distribution. — The "diamond-back," or "salt-water terrapin" is common along our entire Atlantic coast, from Nantucket and New Bedford, in Massachusetts, to Texas. It also occurs in South America. It was introduced into Italy by the Prince of Canino a number of years ago, but of the success of the enterprise I have been un- able to learn. Those who enter into commerce however are principally from the Chesapeake Bay and the coast of the Carolinas. Some very fine ones also come from Egg Harbor, N. J. Characteristics and Habits. — The diamond-back lives in salt marshes near the coast, and is seldom found far from them. They were formerly very abundant in such localities, and could be often seen on warm days sunning themselves on the bars and flats. But the increasing demand for them and the wholesale capture of old and young have reduced their numbers very materially. The species is a comparatively small one, and varies much in external appearance. The females attain a larger size than the male and are much more highly prized in the market. The average length of the under part of the shell is seven inches, and the weight of the animal four or five pounds. Rarely the length reaches ten inches, and the terrapin weighs about ten pounds. The fixed standard of length for salable females in most markets is six inches, but in some it is as low as five inches. The terrapin having that length are known as "counts." The small specimens are separated into "heifers" and "little bulls;" their under shell rarely exceeds five inches in length. As has been already said, thev are deemed very inferior to the females, and the price of them is therefore much lower. In regard to the rate of growth, I have seen it stated that the diamond-back reaches maturity, or rather lays eggs when four years old, but this is hardly probable. It does not accord with the observations of Agassiz and others nor with the peculiari- ties of the group generally. Experiments made by a dealer in North Carolina seem to show that the species grow about one inch each year, so that "counts" are at least six years old. Probably ten years at least elapse before they are fully grown. Food. — What the food of the diamond-back terrapin is does not seem to be exactly known. Very probably, however, it consists of such matter, both animal and vegeta- ble, as the animal is able to find in the marshes in which it lives. When penned, preparatory to sending them to market, they are fed on crabs, oysters and fish. To give them the finest flavor, they are said to be fed upon celery for some days previous to being served. In the winter the tortoise hibernates and takes no food, remaining buried several inches in the mud. Unfortunately for its welfare, a little mound of mud is always raised above the spot where it disappears, which at once catches the eve ot the terrapin fisherman. A large proportion ot the terrapins are taken while they are in this torpid condition. BREEDING 1 lABITS — Like all other species of tortoises, the diamond-back deposits its eggs on land. When the laying season arrives, the female seeks some sandy bar or SHELL-FISH. 121 bank above water, and having excavated a shallow pit with the hind legs, deposits from five to seven eggs. The breeding season occurs in the latter part of June and early part of July. It is said that the young show no disposition to seek the water, but prefer to remain in the sand. Economic Value. — The diamond-back is highly prized for food. Philadelphia furnished the best market for this species, but it is also sold in large numbers in Balti- more, Washington, New York, Boston, Chicago, Pittsburg, Cincinnati, St. Louis and many other cities. The season lasts from the beginning of October to the first or middle of June ; the best months are October and November. The specimens from North Carolina usually appear in the market last. The "counts "or those over six inches long bring from eighteen to thirty-six dollars per dozen in the market ; the smaller ones are usually sold separately at prices of from fifteen to fifty cents apiece. These prices, however, are almost sixty per cent higher than the prices received by the catcher, for the terrapins pass through several hands on their way to the market. The majority of terrapins are actually caught in the summer months and are penned in yards, known as "crawls" until the marketing season arrives. To kill the terrapin it is necessary to have ready a large saucepan of boiling water, one that will hold a terrapin easily, and to plunge the creature into it head first, putting the lid or cover on the pan immediately, and leaving it in the water for ten or fifteen minutes. Then remove it and peel off the black skin from the shell, and the nails from the claws. Wash the terrapin thoroughly in warm water, and remove the under shell by chipping through the thinnest parts, where the black shell joins. Cut close to the shell so as not to lose any meat, pour away the water, but keep the blood, which will be found in the deep or black shell. Take out the dark green gall bladder, which is about the size of a cherry, and will be found near the center at the side of the liver, and also the sand bag and entrail, and preserve the eggs, if there be any. 11 the meat from the top shell, cutting through the spine bone, just above the tail, where it is attached to the shell, turn the terrapin into a flat pan, and cut off the head. This, with the shell, can be used for soup. Separate the two fore and two hind legs, so as to have tour pieces, trim off the claws, and scrape off the thin outside covering. In the female terrapin there will be found rich fat at the shoulders. This should be taken off, as it does not require so much cooking as the other parts, and should only be added when they are nearly done. It is of a dark green color. All the pieces of meat, together with the fat and legs, should be kept in water until wanted for use. Only the flesh, eggs and liver of the terrapin are ordinarily used, but sometimes the intestines are scalded and scraped, and added to the terrapin. When there are no eggs in the terrapin, egg balls are made to accompany it. Baked Terrapin. Cut off the head of a terrapin, put it in a saucepan or pot with the shell on, and let it boil until the under shell can be removed easily. Take it out, pull out all the 122 SHELL-FISH. meat, cleaning the upper shell thoroughly ; pick the meat to pieces, and mix it up with a few crackers and chopped onions, a small quantity each of allspice, black pepper, chopped parsley and butter, and pour over a small quantity of wine. Put this mixture into the top shell, place a few slices of lemon on the top, set it in the oven and bake. When done take it out and serve. Baked Terrapins, Maryland Style. Half fill a baking pan with dry gravel or sand, put it into an oven and make it quite hot; wash well three terrapins that have been killed, remove their heads, put them with the top shell downward in the sand and bake in the oven for an hour. Take them out, remove the under shell, gall bag and entrails and loosen the meat without taking it out of the back shell. Pull off the legs, skin them and lay them on the top. Put one breakfast cupful of butter in a basin to soften, mix in one teacup- ful of flour, one teaspoonful each of salt and black pepper and the juice of a lemon. Put a little more than one tablespoonful of this into each terrapin, place them back in the oven for a few minutes, take them out and serve on a napkin spread on a dish. Fricassee of Terrapin. Put the meat of two or three terrapins into a saucepan with a little butter and a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs; cook until it is slightly colored, sprinkle in salt and pepper to taste and one tablespoonful of flour and pour in gradually sufficient cream to cover. Boil for four minutes without stirring, then add one wine- glassful of sherry; boil again for ten minutes, take the saucepan from the fire, thicken with the beaten yolks of four eggs, remove the bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, add five ounces of butter broken up into small pieces, turn the whole out on to a dish and serve with minced parsley sprinkled over it. Terrapin Steaks. Cut the meat of a terrapin into slices or steaks, sprinkle them over with salt and pepper, place a few lumps of butter on them and either fry them in a frying- pan or broil them on a gridiron. When done place them on a dish and serve very hot; or they may be dipped in butter before being salted and peppered, covered with melted breadcrumbs and then cooked. Stewed Terrapins. Cut the flesh off some small terrapins in little pieces, and put them over the fire in a stewpan, together with a seasoning of pepper and salt, a little cayenne pepper and a small piece of butter. Let them stew in the butter for a short time, add one wineglassful ol water for each terrapin, and put in at the same time a piece of butter SHELL-FISH. 123 rolled in flour ; stew for ten minutes, then add for each terrapin one wineglassful of white wine, and let it stew for another five minutes ; then move the pan to the side of the fire, and stir in some beaten yolks of eggs, allowing one yolk to two terrapins. Cover the pan tightly and let it stand for five or six minutes. Then pour the ter- rapins, sauce and all, into a tureen and serve. Stewed Terrapin, Baltimore Style. Prepare two medium sized terrapins. Make one pint or so of mirepoix sauce, add to it one tablespoonful of flour and bake for fifteen minutes; moisten with one wineglassful of Madeira wine and one breakfast cupful of strong broth. Stir con- stantly, season with a small pinch of salt and a very little cayenne pepper, and reduce the liquor to half its original quantity. Cut the terrapins into small pieces, throwing the ends of the claws away ; place the pieces in a stewpan, straining the sauce over them and finish with one ounce of fresh butter, also the juice of a lemon. Then dish up and serve Stewed Terrapin, Maryland Style. Carefullv cut up two terrapins, place them in a saucepan with one wineglassful of good Madeira wine, a small pinch of salt, a little cayenne pepper, and an ounce or two of good butter. Mix thoroughly one breakfast cupful of sweet cream with the volks of three boiled eggs, and add it to the terrapin, stirring continually while thor- oughly heating, but without letting it come to a boil Turn the whole into a tureen, and serve it very hot. Vol-au-Vent of Terrapin. Put one breakfast cupful of terrapin stock into a saucepan with two or three cloves and a little mace or parsley, and boil it up ; add one tablespoonful of browned flour mixed up with an equal amount of butter to thicken it, pour in one wineglassful of sherrv wine, and strain the liquor into another saucepan. Add two breakfast cupfuls of terrapin meat cut up into small pieces, sprinkle on a little salt and cayenne, simmer gently at the side of the fire until the preparation is done. Have in readi- ness eight vol-au-vent cases lined with puff paste and baked, fill them with the terra- pin mixture, and serve on a folded napkin spread over a dish. Turtle Fins Financiere. Scald and wash the fins of a turtle, remove the large bones, and insert thin tubes in the cavities ; bind the fins tightly in cloths, place them in a saucepan with enough water or broth to cover, and boil until tender. When done, take them out and let them cool, but without removing the cloths. Have ready a little turtle quenelle mix- ture poached in turtle consomme, remove the cloths and tubes from the fins, stuff them with the mixture, warm up again and serve. A garnish composed of fancy 124 SHELL-FISH. shapes cut out from the firm red part of a cooked beef tongue, truffles, breast of chicken, champignons, and also small quenelles, may also be used. Stewed Turtle. Clean a small turtle, place it in a saucepan of cold water, and sufficiently boil it to enable the meat to be easily removed. Cut out the meat in small pieces, put them into a saucepan with a seasoning of salt, cayenne pepper, spices and a little lemon ; add a few hard boiled eggs cut up and sufficient white wine to moisten. Boil until the meat is quite tender, turn the whole out on to a dish and serve. The meat for this should be rather over than underdone. The wine and lemon may be substituted by rich stock or by turtle soup. Side Dishes. Anchovy Tartines. Unroll, dry and cut into narrow strips the contents of a bottle of anchovies pre- served in oil. Cut some French rolls into round slices, butter them well and arrange a few of the strips of anchovy on them so as to form an open or trellis work. In the center, or opening, put the yolk and white of an egg and parsley or finely chopped gherkins, varying them so as not to let the colors contrast; put them on a dish with a napkin spread over it and serve with cheese. Deviled Bones. Select bones which have not been quite stripped of meat and mix with a little dry mustard and salt and make up with a lump of butter. Rub this well into and over the bones, and dust lightly with cayenne pepper and broil. Serve with mushrooms fried in butter. Marrow Bones. May be either deviled or boiled, but in either instance the ends should be well sealed with a paste made of flour and water. Serve with slices of hot buttered toast, without crust, and a marrow spoon for transferring the marrow to the toast. Bouchees of Beef Palates. Chop up two cold cooked beef palates into very small pieces and put them into a saucepan with one-third of their bulk of chopped cooked mushrooms; pour a few tablespoonfuls of very good bechamel sauce into another saucepan, reduce it, stirring continually, and adding gradually one-half teacupful of melted glaze. Add it to the salpicon of palates and mushrooms, and put the saucepan containing them into the bain-marie to keep hot. Have ready some bouchees cases, made of puff paste, remove the top, put in some of the mixture, cover them over, arrange on a napkin spread on a dish and serve. Bouchees, Queen Style. Roll some good puff paste into a quarter of an inch in thickness, and let it remain in a cold place for ten minutes, then cut six rounds out of the paste with a three-inch cutter, fluted ; lay these on a buttered tin baking-dish, slightly separated 125 i 2 6 SIDE DISHES. from each other, and brush them over with beaten egg ; make a mark on the surface of each with a paste cutter two inches in diameter, being careful to dip the cutter each time in hot water, so that the marked line may remain perfect ; then place in a brisk oven for twenty minutes ; lift the centers with a knife, remove the crumb and fill with a white salpicon, made of truffles, mushrooms and finely shredded chicken and tongue cut up into small dice. Set the centers on again as covers, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin on it. Bouchees of Sardines. Pound one or two boned sardines in a mortar, together with a small quantity of cheese, and add salt, pepper and chili vinegar until the mixture has the taste and appearance of dressed crab. Mix in a few chopped oysters ; put the mixture into small cases of bread fried in butter, and garnish with hard boiled yolk of egg rubbed through a sieve and mixed with finely-chopped parsley. Arrange these bouchees on a napkin on. a dish, and serve. Canapes. Cut several thin slices of bread, remove the crusts and toast them till they are of an even brown. Butter slightly and spread with any kind of potted meat or fish. Put two slices together, and cut them in long strips. They afford a tasty dish for tea or supper parties. Artichoke Bottoms for Canapes. Cook the artichokes, spreading over the bottoms some anchovy butter and decorate with pickled cucumbers, capers or gherkins, anchovies and the whites and yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pour over them a salad dressing and garnish with water cresses. Canapes of Caviar. Cut three or four slices of bread about one-fourth inch in thickness, and then cut them up into round pieces with a biscuit cutter, of about two inches in diameter. Put these into a pan with a small piece of butter, and fry to a light brown color. When done, spread on the rounds a layer of caviar, and serve them on a dish covered with a napkin or ornamental dish-paper. Cheese Canapes. Cut a few pieces of bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick, trim off the crusts, and then cut them up one inch wide and three inches long; fry these a del irate brown in clarified butter; grate a little cheese over them, sprinkle on the tops a little cayenne pepper and salt, and put them in the oven until the cheese lias melted. SIDE DISHES. 127 Serve while hot. A fillet of anchovy shredded into two laid lengthwise on these canapes are an improvement, and they may be eaten cold with salad. They may also be garnished with finely chopped parsley. Canapes of Crab Take six slices of bread, cut off the crusts, and fry the slices to a light brown with a pat of butter. Take the lower shell from a few crabs, and pick out the meat from the body and claws; place the meat on a plate, season with salt and pepper, and mince up well. Put one ounce of butter in a saucepan with a chopped onion, cook for a few minutes, but do not let the onion brown. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, then one gill of broth, add the crab meat, cook and continue stirring for fifteen minutes. Have a tablcspoonful of butter in a saucepan on a hot stove, mix in one tablespoonful of flour, and cook slowly for three minutes; add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and the same quantity of grated Gruycrc; stir together and turn into a basin to cool. Spread a layer of the forcemeat on each slice of toast. Divide the cheese into six equal parts, roll each into a ball, range it in the center, over the layer of forcemeat. Place them on a flat dish, and bake in the brisk oven for five or six minutes. When ready take the dish out of the oven and serve at once. Egg Canapes. Put into a saucepan of water four eggs and boil for ten minutes, or until quite hard; then peel off the shells, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks and chop them up. Soak two anchovies, dry and remove the bones and chop them up with three truffles and six capers; mix in the chopped yolks, add a seasoning of salt, pepper and cayenne and one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Fill the halves lis with this mixture, place each one on a piece of fried bread, heat in the oven and serve very hot. Eggs and Caviar Canapes. Cut a French roll into slices of moderate thickness and butter them; spread over each a layer of Russian caviar and squeeze over a little lemon juice. Boil some eggs till hard and when cold peel and cut into slices; lay a slice of egg on each slice of roll and press them slightly together. Put the canapes on a dish with a folded nap- kin or a dish-paper, garnish them with green parsley and serve. A very small quan- tity of finely minced parsley strewn over the tops of the eggs will be found an im- provement. Canapes of Lobster. Spread with lobster butter a few thin slices of bread fried in butter; leave for two hours some slices of lobster in a marinade of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Take them out, set them in the middle of the bread and place a group of capers on each piece. 128 SIDE DISHES. Canapes Lorenzo. Cut six slices of bread the width of an American loaf and one-quarter of an inch in thickness, neatly pare off the crust and fry in a sautoire, together with half an ounce of fresh butter, so as to make them a light brown color ; then boil eighteen hard-shell crabs in salted water for about twelve minutes, after which remove and allow them to become cool, when the upper shell should be removed, and with the aid of a pointed knife pick out all of the meat, cracking the claws and removing all the meat from there also ; place it all on a plate, season with a teaspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper ; then place one ounce of butter in a saucepan, with a peeled and very finely chopped onion, and cook them together for about two minutes over a moderate fire ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir again for two minutes, and add one gill of broth, and stir while slowly cooking for five minutes, now add the crab meat, and cook for quarter of an hour, stirring once in a while with a wooden spoon, then remove into another vessel and let it cool for fifteen minutes. Put in a sautoire a tablespoonful of good butter over a stove, and mix in with one tablespoonful of flour, and cook for three minutes gently ; add a couple of ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and an equal quantity of Swiss cheese, stirring well together; place it in a vessel to cool. Put a layer of crab meat on each slice of toast a quarter of an inch thick, and divide the prepared cheese in six equal portions, forming them into ball shapes about two inches in diameter, and arrange them over the laver of crab meat in the center, place them on a dish and bake in a brisk oven for about five minutes, then take them out and serve them in the same dish in which they have been cooked. Canapes Madison. Cut six thin slices of bread and trim them all alike, toast to a golden color, and place them on a dish. Cover each slice with a very thin slice of lean cooked ham ; spread a little mustard over it, then cover with a layer of provincial garnishing. Dredge grated Parmesan cheese on the top, and strew a little fresh breadcrumbs over all. Place them in a hot oven, and bake for ten minutes ; then take them out, arrange on a hot dish, covered by a folded napkin, and serve. Olive and Anchovy Canapes. Stone and peel some olives, being sure to keep their shape as much as possible ; wash an equal number of anchovies and coil an anchovy around each olive. Cut as many rounds of bread as there are olives and toast them lightly on both sides ; butter them while they are hot and put an olive on each. Spread a dish paper over a hot dish, arrange the toast on it, garnish with a border of fresh well-washed water- crcsscs, and serve. This dish is much used for luncheons. SIDE DISHES. 129 Olive and Caper Canapes. Cut six slices of bread out of which cut twelve rounds. Melt some butter in a Stewpan, then put in the slices of bread and fry them. When they are nicely browned take them out of the fat and place them on a piece of paper to drain. Skin and bone twelve anchovies, put them in a mortar, mash, then rub them through a fine wire sieve. Spread the anchovy paste over the pieces of bread, strew finely chopped capers and olives on the top, place them on a baking-dish and put in a brisk oven for ten minutes. Arrange the toast on a fancv napkin and serve it while it is very hot. Oyster Canapes. Finch- chop a dozen oysters, put them in a saucepan with a teaspoonful of cracker dust or finely grated breadcrumb, a lump of butter about the size of a walnut, and one-half teacupful of thick cream, and season with salt and pepper. Stir the mixture over the fire and let it simmer for a few minutes. Cut some slices of bread about one-fourth inch in thickness, butter them, and put them on a hot dish. Pour the mixture over the bread and butter and serve it while hot. Canapes of Sardines. Bone six or eight sardines, put half of them in a mortar with the hard-boiled yolks of three eggs and pound them, mixing in by degrees sufficient butter to make a firm paste. Season the mixture with a small quantity of finely-chopped parsley, chives and tarragon, mustard, pepper and a small quantity of vinegar. Rub all the ingredients together until quite smooth. Cut slices of bread into oval-shaped pieces, and fry them in butter until well browned, but not too dark a color. When fried drain and spread over with the sardine mixture. Arrange the slices on a dish over which has been spread an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin. Cut a few more sardines into small fillets, lay them on the canapes with very small slices of pickled gherkins and a few shelled prawns. This is a very pretty dish and simple in con- struction. Canapes of Smoked Salmon. Fry in clarified better some fingers of bread, two and one-half inches long, one and one-half inches wide and one-fourth inch thick; when lightly browned drain them and leave them until cold. Mask the pieces of bread with anchovy butter, place some thin slices of smoked salmon on each, sprinkle over some chopped hard-boiled egg and parsley and serve. Tricolor Canapes. Skin and bone six anchovies, pound them in a mortar and pass them through a fine wire sieve. Boil three eggs until they are hard, separate the whites from the 130 SIDE DISHES. yolks and pass them separately through the sieve. Care must be taken in preparing these ingredients not to get the colors mixed. Cut four slices of bread, trim off the crusts, and cut each slice into two square pieces. Put a strip of the hard-boiled white of an egg on a piece of fried bread, next a strip of finely-chopped gherkins or capers, and next a strip of the yolk of eggs, thus making three colors on one piece of bread. Proceed in like manner with the rest. Spread a fancy dish-paper or a folded napkin over a dish, arrange the canapes neatly on it, placing here and there a few sprigs of parsley and serve. Caviar on Toast. Prepare six rounds of toast of white bread. Place in a saucepan two large table- spoonfuls of caviar and one tablespoonful of cream, heat for a minute or two at one side of the fire, stirring carefully meanwhile. Pour this mixture over the toast and serve on a dish with a folded napkin. Caviar with Eggs. Cut off from stale French rolls some slices about a third of an inch thick; spread on them anchovy butter or fry them lightly in butter. Spread over each slice a thick layer of caviar, then squeeze over a little lemon juice and add a seasoning of salt and pepper. Have prepared some hard boiled eggs, peel them and cut them into slices, using a very sharp knife; lay the slices of egg, one on each side of the bread, and serve on a dish on which has been laid an ornamental paper. A bit of chopped mustard and cress salad spread over the caviar is an improvement. Curling Celery. Slit the stalks with a penknife closely should the fringe be too fine, taking care that the slits all end at an even line. If a large amount of celery is used every day set on the tables in celery glasses, a sort of rake is used in place of the penknife, and this rake is made bv driving a number of the three-edged sacking needles of the very smallest size through a soft piece of cigar boxwood. The celery ends are combed with this and then put in glasses of ice-water to cool at leisure. Frizzled Celerv. Take one large head of good celery, pare off the green stalks and cut off the root, which may be used for salad. Cut the stalk lengthwise into four equal parts, wash them well in cold water and cut each one into pieces about three inches long, and by doing this all the branches will be separated. With the aid of a small sharp knife pare the thin sides a little, making five or six slits in each piece, starting from the top downward, leaving from one-half to three-quarters of an inch uncut, and put them in cold water with plenty of ice-, allowing them to remain for about two hours. Then remove them from the ice water, arrange them tastefully on a round ijass dish SIDE DISHES. 131 and serve. Celery arranged and served in this way makes a beautiful effect on the table, though it requires time and patience to prepare it. Serving Celery in a Glass. Thoroughly wash two or three heads of fine white celery, pare off the green stalks and trim the roots, being careful to save the clear white hearts. Cut every head lengthwise into quarters, rinse them again in cold water, and let them remain in a dish of clean ice water until required. Arrange them in a celery stand, or glass or dress on a china dish, with a few pieces of ice in the center, and serve. Olive Custards. Stone some olives. Beat two eggs well, put them into a lined stewpan with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and with a wooden spoon, stir over the fire until they are thick, then remove the pan. Cut as much bread as there are olives, fry them in boiling butter until they are of a light golden brown and drain ; spread them with a layer of the anchovy paste, then with a layer of the cheese mixture and put an olive on each. Spread an ornamented napkin on a dish, arrange the rounds on it and serve. Olives Stuffed with Anchovies. Stone a dozen Spanish olives ; wash and bone five anchovies, chop them finely, put them in a mortar with a moderate quantity each of chopped onion and parsley, pound them smoothly and season with a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Fill the hollows of the olives left by the stones with the pounded mixture, Cut a few slices of bread and scoop a hollow in the center of each round; put a large piece of lard in a stewpan on the fire, and when it boils put in the rounds of bread and fry them until they arc brown. Afterwards drain, then leave them until they are cool, and place an olive in the middle of each. Arrange them on a dish, pour over a small quantity of mayonnaise sauce and serve. Olives Stuffed with Chestnuts. Take twelve Spanish olives and six Spanish chestnuts, put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with two ounces of ham cut in small pieces, a small carrot and onion peeled and cut into thin slices and fry until they are brown; then add a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, dredge in one tablespoonful of flour and moisten with some of the liquor from the olives. Stir the whole until they are mixed then place the pan over the fire and stir occasionally. Boil the chestnuts and when they are tender peel and put them in a mortar with one pound of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, pound until smooth. Peel the olives, remove the stones, till the hollows with the chestnuts, and lay them in a lined stew- pan; strain the above sauce over them and let them simmer at the side of the fire 3^ SIDE DISHES. until they are hot through. Cut a thick slice of bread, fry it in butter until it is nicely browned, then drain and scoop out the center, making a hollow large enough to hold the olives. When it is ready put the olives on the bread, place it on a hot dish, garnish tastefully round with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, pour the sauce round the bread and serve while it is very hot. Dressed Raw Onions. Peel some onions, chop fine, put in water with a very little salt and let them soak for an hour or so. Remove them, drain, place on a dish and pour over a mixture of one-half gill of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls each of made mustard, chili vinegar and sugar, and one tablespoonful of salt. Put a lump of ice on top and garnish the dish with curled parsley. If the parsley is eaten after the onions it is supposed to take the smell away. Patties. Take a few small patty pans and spread them with short paste, make a savory forcemeat of raw calf's liver, fill the pans with it, put over these covers of thin paste and place them in a slack oven to bake. Remove when done, and when they are cold cut off the covering of paste, take out a little of the inside and put in a little cooked goose's fat liver. Replace that which was removed and put it over the goose's liver, raising the preparation in a dome above the edges of the paste. Set a small jelly crouton on the top. Arrange the patties in a pyramid on a dish and garnish them with more aspic, according to taste. Beef Marrow Patties. Blanch one-fourth pound of sweet almonds and pound them in a mortar, adding occasionallv a few drops of orange flower water. When quite smooth, mix with them two heaped tablespoonfuls of flour, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and sufficient warm water to make the whole into a smooth paste. Butter some small shallow- moulds, line them with the paste, brush them over with paste brush dipped into well- beaten yolk of egg, and bake them in a slow oven. Chop and flavor some marrow with lemon peel, and mix some sweet cream with it. When the patties are cooked, take them out of their moulds, put a small piece of marrow mixture in each, spread them over with white of egg that has been whipped to a stiff froth, and dredge lightly with powdered sugar. Put them in the oven to set the egg, then place them on a dish that has been garnished with a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper and serve very hot. Patties Dauphine. Roll out one and one-half pounds of brioche paste tour times, then with a round tin CUtter two inches in diameter, cut out of this twenty round tlats; put in the center SIDE DISHES. 133 of each one of half of the rounds, a small ball of croquette preparation, then put the other rounds on top and moisten and pinch the edges together; cut them again with the same tin cutter to make them round. Spread a floured cloth on a baking-sheet, arrange the patties on it a short distance from each other, cover with a floured cloth and keep them in a warm temperature for thirty-five minutes; then put them a few at a time into boiling fat and fry till nicely browned. When cooked, drain the patties on a cloth, pile them on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve. Dresden Patties. Take three ounces of any kind of cold boiled fish, trim off the skin and bone and chop the fish fine. Put one ounce of butter into a flat stewpan with a tablespoonful of flour, stir over the fire until mixed, then pour in a tcacupful of milk, and continue stirring. Put the fish into the boiling milk, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook over a slow fire for fifteen minutes. Cut two large rounds of bread about four inches in diameter and one and one-half inches in thickness and with a three-inch tin cutter cut half way through each. Dip the rounds well in cream, then drain, and dip them in well beaten egg. Season a small plate of finely grated breadcrumb with salt and pepper, and roll the rounds in them, giving a good coating. Put a large lump of clarified fat or lard into a fryingpan, place it over the fire till blue smoke rises, then put in the rounds and fry them till lightly browned. Take them out of the fat with a slice, and lav them on a sheet of kitchen paper to drain for a few minutes. Lift off the inner round of bread with a sharp knife, and scoop out from the center of the large round, all the soft bread. Fill the hollows with the fish mixture, and put the small rounds on top. Place the patties on a hot dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with a few neat sprigs of fried parslev, and serve while very hot. Patties Financiere. Butter twelve fluted deep patty pans, line them with short paste, then with paper, fill them with flour and bake in a moderate oven. When done remove the paper and flour, coat them inside with a thin layer of forcemeat, and set them at the entrance of the oven to keep warm. Roll out some puff paste and cut twelve rounds out of it the same size as the inside of the patty ; brush over with beaten egg, mark lines across the top with a sharp pointed knife, and bake till lightly browned; pre- pare a mixture of little scallops of fat livers and truffles, some cocks' combs and small quenelles; put it in a saucepan with a little reduced brown sauce and warm thoroughly, but do not let it boil. Fill the patties with the mixture, previously turn- ing them out of the pan ; put on the covers of puff paste, arrange them on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve hot or cold. i 3 4 SIDE DISHES. Fontange Patties. Stir up with four ounces of flour the yolks of three or four eggs, a little salt, and a teacupful of olive oil ; mix with this one and one-half teacupfuls of beer and warm water mixed in equal quantities ; put a cloth over the basin, and keep it in a warm place for two hours, then pour the batter into a stewpan. Warm in boiling fat, an iron mould made for this purpose, of the shape of a little timbale ; when hot, dip it nearly, but not quite to the rim, in the batter, take it out again immediately, plunge it into the boiling fat and leave it till the batter is cooked ; then remove it from the mould and proceed as before until all the batter is cooked. Prepare a salpicon of poultry meat, pickled tongues, brains and mushrooms, thicken it with a little sauce, fill the batter shells with it, arrange them on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve. Lent Patties. Make fifteen small puff paste patties, as for Vol-au-Vent Patties, and bake them. When done take them off the baking-sheet, empty the pans, and keep the patties warm. Beat fifteen eggs and season them with salt and a little grated nutmeg. Peel and cut into small dice three small truffles, put them in a saucepan with a small lump of butter, and warm them. Pour the beaten eggs in with the truffles, add a little more butter broken in small pieces, and stir over a slow fire till thick. Mix a teacupful of bechamel sauce with the above ingredients, take it off the fire, fill the patties with the mixture, arrange them on a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper on a dish, garnish with parsley and serve. Vol-au-Vent Patties. Roll out a piece of puff paste to about one-fourth inch in thickness, cut out some rounds with a tin cutter about two and one-half inches in diameter, then take a smaller cutter, about one and one-half inches in diameter, and cut nearly, but not quite through, in the center of each one ; put them on a baking-dish and bake in a quick oven. The paste rises, and the inside becomes a lid that may be lifted out with the point of a knife. Trim off the surplus paste from the inside, fill them with whatever has been prepared for them, put the lids on and decorate with a sprig of parsley. Cheese Salad. Put the yolk of a hard-boiled egg into a basin, and rub it smooth with a table- spoonful of salad oil ; then add one teaspoonful of salt, one of cayenne and one of sugar, and made mustard, mixing each oik- separately, before another is added, and stirring in one-half pound of grated cheese. The cheese used for this purpose should be as old as possible without being high. After all are well worked together add SIDE DISHES. 35 one tablespoonful of onion vinegar, put the mixture into scallop shells, and serve with shredded lettuce, or other green salad. Cucumber Salad. Take three medium-sized cucumbers, lay them on ice until thoroughly chilled, then pare, taking care to leave no trace of the green skin, a very small bit of which would be enough to spoil the salad. Slice the cucumbers very thinly and arrange them in a glass dish or shallow bowl; mix together half a teaspoonful of ground white pepper and one teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle this over and among them; then mix- one tablespoonful of vinegar with two tablespoonfuls of'the best salad oil and pour it over. Aberdeen Sandwiches. Chop one ounce of cold tongue or ham and two ounces of cold chicken, put the chopped meat into a saucepan with one-half tcacupful of good sauce and about half that quantity of curry paste; let it simmer for five minutes, stirring it constantly, then put it into a bowl and have until cool. Cut some thin slices of stale bread, stamp them into rounds about the size of half a dollar silver piece, and fry them to a verv light brown in boiling lard or oil. Lav them on paper to drain. Then put a thick layer of the cooled mixture of chopped ham and chicken between two fried rounds of bread, arrange them nicelv on a dish, bake them in the oven for four or five min- utes and serve hot. Garnish with fried parsley. Adelaide Sandwiches. Take one-fourth pound of cold chicken and two ounces of cold ham and cut them into small squares. Mix one teaspoonful of curry paste with one-half teacupful of sauce in a saucepan over the fire, and when it boils mix into it the ham and chicken; take it from the fire and let cool; cut some thin slices of stale bread, stamp them into rounds about the size of a crown piece, and fry them a very light brown in boiling lard or clarified butter. Put a layer of the mixture of chopped meat and sauce be- tween two pieces of fried bread. Pound some grated Parmesan cheese and butter (equal quantities of each) together and roll it into balls about the size of a walnut, one of these balls on top of each sandwich, lay them on a baking sheet and place them in a quick oven for five minutes. Serve them on a napkin. Anchovy Sandwiches. Empty a bottle of anchovies into a bowl of water, and wash them thoroughly. changing the water frequently. Put them, when drained and boned, into a mortar with an equal quantity of butter, and pound well to a very smooth paste. Spread this over thin slices of bread, put two of those together to form the sandwich, and serve. 136 SIDE DISHES. Beef Tongue Sandwich. Chop one-half pound of cold boiled tongue, put it into a mortar with the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, one tablespoonful of made mustard, some salt, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper, and pound it all to a paste. Dilute the paste with two or three tablespoonfuls of cream. Cut some thin slices of bread, butter them, then spread them with the mixture, and press them together in pairs. Cut the sandwiches in halves, put them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin placed on a dish, and serve. Cheese Sandwich. Grate two ounces of Roquefort, or Farmesan, or other cheese, and work it well with a pat of butter. Spread this on some thin slices of bread, put another thin slice on the top of each, press them gently together, cut the sandwiches into finger lengths, and arrange them neatly on a folded napkin, or a fancy dish-paper, garnishing here and there with freshly gathered parsley. Serve the sandwiches with salad. A second method of preparation is to take the yolks of three hard boiled eggs, and with one ounce of butter melted over the fire mix and rub them to a smooth paste; grate four ounces of cheese and work it into the paste, and season it to taste with salt and pepper. Cut three slices of thin bread, and butter; spread each slice with one-third of this paste, and fold the other half of the slice over it. Roquefort Cheese Sandwich. After grating two ounces of Roquefort cheese, work it into a paste with one ounce of butter, using for the purpose a knife, and season with salt and pepper. When it is quite smooth, spread the paste on some slices of bread, cover with another one, press the two carefully together and cut into fingers. If desired, chopped parsley, or chives, or both, may be mixed with the cheese. It may also be spread on crackers in place of bread. It is generally served as a course after salad. Chicken and Ham Sandwiches. Remove the crusts from thin slices of bread and spread over thinly with butter. Lay some slices of cold chicken on the buttered sides of the bread, and over these very thin slices of ham, adding a little salt and mustard to taste. Lay a slice of bread, with the buttered side downwards, over each, press them gently together, trim and cut the sandwiches into oblong pieces. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve on a napkin spread on a dish. Goose Sandwiches. These are made of the smoked breasts of geese cut into very fine slices. Cut 90me thin slices of bread and butter, lay tin sines of goose on them with a few thin SIDE DISHES. 137 slices of hard-boiled eggs, squeeze over a little lemon juice, season with salt and pepper and cover them with slices of bread and butter. Cut the sandwiches into fingers, arrange on a folded napkin, and garnish with sprigs of parsley. Sandwiches of Goose's Fat Liver. Take a square loaf of bread, remove all the crust, cut the crumb into slices about an eighth of an inch thick, butter them well and cover half of them with potted fat liver; place the other half on top of them with the butter inside, press slightly together and cut them up into fingers two and one-half fingers long by one and one- half inches wide. Pickle Sandwiches. Cut some pickles in very thin slices lengthwise, lav them on slices of bread, then put a thin slice of thin roasted veal or pork on the top of that ; season witli pepper, salt, and mustard, and cover with another slice of bread. Cut the sandwiches into finger lengths, arrange them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin spread over a dish, garnish with neat sprigs of parsley, and serve. Sardine Sandwiches. Drain the oil from five or six sardines, skin and bone them, and cut off their tails. Place them in a mortar with one anchovy that has been skinned and boned, add one ounce of butter and a small quantity each of salt, pepper, mace, and cayenne, and pound until smooth. Cut some rather thin slices of brown bread and butter, spread the mixture on them, and fold them over. Cut the sandwiches into finger lengths or quarters, arrange them on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish tastefully with sprigs of well washed parsley, and serve. Sausage Sandwiches, German. Pare some slices of bread about an eighth of an inch thick. Cut some slices of German sausage and remove the skin. Butter the bread, cover a slice of bread and butter with the slices of sausage, turn another slice buttered side downwards over, and press them together. When all the sandwiches are made, pile evenly one on top of another as many as can easily be cut through, trim the edges evenly, cutting off the crusts, and then cut the sandwiches into pieces of a convenient size. Lay a napkin on a dish and pile the sandwiches nicely on it. Savory Sandwiches. Take some cold cooked ham, or corned beef or tongue, having one-fourth of its quantity fat; chop it up very finely, and mix with it one teaspoonful of mustard, one saltspoonful of salt, and sufficient cold water to form a stiff paste. Then add one-half 138 SIDE DISHES. teacupful of butter worked to a cream. Take some very thin slices of stale bread, spread them over with the paste, put two slices together, having the paste inside, cut into shapes or rectangular pieces, and serve. Shrimp Sandwiches. Pick one-half pint of shrimps, put them into a mortar with two or three ounces of butter, season with a little salt and cayenne pepper, and pound them to a paste, moisten it with a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Cut some rather thin slices of bread and butter, spread half of them with the paste, fold the remaining half over these, and press them lightly together. Cut the sandwiches into fingers or quarters, arrange them on a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with parsley, and serve. Turkey Sandwich. Chop finely the dark meat of a cold roast turkey, place it in a saucepan with about two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped celery, season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir over the fire until hot; then add a soft boiled egg and leave it until cold. Cut some slices of bread about one-half inch in thickness, toast them on both sides, then split them in two and butter them inside. Spread a layer of the turkey mixture over one of them, lay the other slice over and press them gently with the blade of a knife. Cut the sandwiches into halves or quarters, place them on a folded napkin or a fancy dish-paper that has been spread on a dish, and serve. Veal Sandwiches. Chop some cold roast veal and place in a mortar with salt, pepper and a small quantity of tarragon vinegar. Slice some hard-boiled eggs, remove the yolks, being careful not to break the rings of white, place them in the mortar with the veal and pound well. Spread a small quantity of mixed mustard over some slices of bread, then lay the white rings of egg on them, and fill each ring with the pounded mixture, cover them with slices of bread and press them lightly together. Cut the sand- wiches into halves, and serve them. Welsh Rabbit Sandwiches. Put one-fourth of a pound of mild American cheese into a mortar with two ounces of butter and one teaspoonful of mustard, pound well together, and dilute with a small quantity of tarragon vinegar. Alter spreading the mixture between slices of bread it is ready to serve. Sardines in Kggs. Skin and bone ten or a dozen sardines and place them in a mortar, remove the shells from an equal number oi hard-boiled eggs, cut them in pieces crosswise, put SIDE DISHES. 39 the yolks in the mortar with the sardines, adding at the same time a little chopped •parsley, salt, pepper and one-tablespoonful of butter; pound all together, fill the whites of the eggs with the above mixture, stick them together like whole eggs, arrange them on a dish with watercress between them and serve. Beef Marrow on Toast. Take some large pieces of marrow and put them in a saucepan of well salted boiling water, and let them remain for one minute, then drain off the water through a very fine sieve. Take out the marrow, put it on some pieces of toasted bread, place them in the oven, and cook for five minutes. Sprinkle over them chopped parsley, salt and pepper, and serve very hot. Anchovy Toast. Thoroughly cleanse and fillet the number of anchovies to be used, chop them small, or crush them with a silver knife. Put this into a small stewpan with some salad oil, warm slightly, and set it on one side. Cut some slices of bread, nearly half an inch thick, and trim to an even oblong shape; toast them on both sides on a grid- iron, basting with a brush dipped in oil. Spread the anchovy over, and sprinkle on all a little chopped parsley. Push the gridiron with the dressed slices on it into a sharp oven for a few minutes, and serve hot. Beef Tongue Toast. Take the remains of a cold cooked tongue, grate it as finely as possible, add a little finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and form the mixture into a thin paste with the yolks of eggs. Make the mixture as hot as possible without boiling, turn it out on to slices of thin toast, dust over with breadcrumbs, brown the surface with a salamander, or in front of the fire, and serve. Egg and Anchovy Toast. Remove the shell from four cold hard boiled eggs and chop them; put a sauce- pan over the fire with one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of cornmeal blended smooth in a little milk, one teaspoonful each of anchovy sauce and vinegar, a season- ing of pepper and salt, and one pint of milk; stir over the fire until boiling, and then put in the chopped eggs, stirring them well in. Toast three rounds of bread, butter, and spread the mixture over, and serve hot. Ham and Egg Toasts. Chop finely some cold cooked ham, toast some slices of bread and butter them. Spread the ham on the toast, and put them in the oven for three or four minutes. 140 SIDE DISHES. Beat six eggs in a teacupful of milk, and add a little salt and pepper. Put two table- spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, pour in the beaten eggs, and stir over the fire until thick, but do not let boil. Arrange the ham on a dish, the toast also, pour the eggs over, and serve. Lobster Toast. Pick all the meat from the shell of a large lobster and chop it fine ; work two or three tablespoonfuls of cream into one ounce of butter, then mix with it the chopped lobster, adding a boned, washed and chopped anchovy, and salt and pepper to taste. Work all together with the blade of a knife, then mix in lightly two or three tablespoonfuls of washed and chopped watercress. Cut some slices of bread about one-fourth inch in thickness, trim off all the crusts and toast them ; cut them into squares, butter over and spread some of the lobster mixture on each piece. Strew finely grated breadcrumbs over, and place them in a brisk oven for a tew minutes. Spread a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the pieces of toast nicely on it, garnish with a border of well-washed watercress, and serve. Salmon Toast. Cut as many slices of bread as are required, trim off the crusts, and toast them to a delicate brown ; butter them, and lay on each slice a very thin piece of smoked salmon ; sprinkle over with pepper, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and place them in a brisk oven for a few minutes. When very hot, arrange the pieces of toast on a hot dish, on which has been spread a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve. Sardine Toast. Scrape the skin off some sardines, split them in halves, lengthwise and remove the bones. Lay the sardines on a plate, pour some of their oil over them, cover witli another plate and place them in a moderate oven until heated all through. Cut the required number of slices about three-fourths of an inch thick off a stale square loaf, toast them to a delicate brown on both sides and butter them. Cut the toast into fingers and lav a sardine on each; dust them over lightly with salt and a very small quantity of cavenne pepper, and squeeze some lemon juice over them. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the fingers oi toast neatly on it, garnish with a border of nicelv picked and washed watercress, and serve. The above makes a very tasty breakfast dish and is very quioklv prepared. Sardines and Anchovy Toast. Clean well three anchovies, put them into a mortar with one teaspoonful of an- chovy paste, one ounce of butter and a seasoning of cavenne pepper and grated nut- meg and pound them to a smooth paste, then pa^s it through a fine hair sieve. Toast SIDE DISHES. 141 some thin slices of bread and cut them into pieces about the breadth and length of a sardine. Wash some sardines in hot water, wipe them dry, divide into fillets by splitting them down the back and take the bone out. Spread the pounded anchovy on the toast and lay a filleted sardine on top of each piece. Pile the pieces of toast on a dish in couples, crossing one another like lattice work and garnish the dish with chopped hard-boiled eggs. Shrimp Toast. Fry some slices of crumb of bread in butter, then cut them into rounds with a plain two-inch cutter. When cold, mask the fried rounds with shrimp butter, arrange a star of trimmed shrimp's tails on the top of each and sprinkle a little chopped pars- ley in the center. Arrange the toasts on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin. Beef. Beef a la Mode. Cut off the under part of a round of beef, wipe and trim off the edges, place in a deep earthen dish and pour over it spiced vinegar. This spiced vinegar may be made as follows : Boil for five minutes a breakfast cupful of vinegar, with an onion chopped fine, a little salt, mustard, pepper, cloves, and allspice. Let the meat remain in this mixture for several hours, stirring it frequently ; then dress it with ten or twelve strips of salt pork cut a third of an inch square, and as long as the meat is thick insert these strips with a large larding-needle, or bore a hole in the meat with a carving steel ; or, If desired, larger incisions may be made and stuffed with bread- crumbs highly seasoned, with salt, pepper, onions, thyme, marjoram, etc., moistened with hot water, a little butter and a well beaten egg. Bind the beef into shape with a narrow strip of cotton cloth, in such a manner as to retain the stuffing, and dredge with flour, then cut up two onions, half a carrot and half a turnip, and fry in fat drip- pings until brown, and place in a stewpan. Brown the meat all over in the same fat, and place on a trivet in the pan; half cover with boiling water, adding a little mixed herbs tied in a muslin bag; cover loosely and simmer for four hours or until quite tender Take out carefully and remove the strings, and put on a large dish, Skim off the fat from the gravy, add more seasoning, and thicken with wetted flour worked smooth, boil for eight or ten minutes and strain over the meat. Decorate with potato balls and small onions. Boiled Beef. Place a brisket or round of beef in a saucepan, with some small pieces of trim- mings of beef, veal, lamb or fowl giblets, salt and pepper to taste, and pour over enough water to cover, boiling them until nearly done. Then add an onion, carrots cut in slices, a bunch of parsley, a teacupful each of browned flour and butter to thicken, cover the saucepan and cook for about twenty minutes longer. When the meat is done, remove it and place upon a dish; strain the liquor, adding a wineglassful of mushroom catsup or white wine to it, and pour over the meat and serve. Braised Beef. Place a layer of sliced onions in the bottom of a stewpan, over which arrange a layer of thick slices of bacon, and put a piece of round of beef on the bacon, after tying ii]) the beef to keep it in shape. Set on the fire for twenty minutes, turning it once or twice, then add a tumblerful of wine, some carrots ami onions cut in slices, BEEF. *43 a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, and add a few cloves. Fill the pan with sufficient stock to cover the beef, placing the lid on the pan, and braise it from four to five hours, with a few hot cinders on the lid, or else in the oven. Strain free from all fat, and serve with the meat gravy. Braised Beef a la Mode. Lard a piece of beef with salt pork, let it marinade for twelve hours with the juice of half a lemon, a little salt and pepper, a sprig of thyme, two bay leaves and half a dozen parsley roots. Then place the meat in a saucepan with a lump of butter, and brown both sides well for ten minutes, then remove and place it on a dish. Add to the gravy a little flour, stirring it well and moisten with a quart of broth, mixing it slowly while the sauce is boiling; then replace the beef in the sauce- pan with two sliced carrots, and a dozen small onions glazed, and cook for an hour, adding a strong garnished bouquet, a wincglassful of claret wine, and a small piece of crushed garlic, also salt and pepper to taste. After skimming off the fat and straining, serve on a hot dish, arranging the carrots and onions in clusters around the dish. Braised Beef, Providence Style. Braise the beef as indicated for braised beef, and add a quarter of a cooked cauliflower, half a breakfast cupful of flageolet beans, and a cupful of carrots, cut with a vegetable scoop shortly before serving. Place the vegetables in a pan with the skimmed gravy and cook for five minutes. Serve the beef on a hot dish, the vegetables arranged in heaps around it, and pour the gravy over the beef. Braised Rib of Beef. Select a chuck-rib of beef, cut very short, cut off the chine bone, leaving only the rib, then tie with a string and place in a stewpan just large enough to contain it. Add a couple of pints of broth, a gill of brandy, a little salt, pepper and an onion, a clove, some sweet herbs and a carrot. Cover the pan and boil slowly for two hours. At the expiration of that time, if tender, place on a dish, and keep it warm while preparing the gravy, which is made as follows : Strain the stock in which the meat has been cooked, and take off all fat, reduce it one-half over the fire, and pour over the meat, garnishing with macaroni, noodles or vegetables, arranged around the dish in small heaps. Chateaubriand of Beef. Cut the desired number of thick slices from a tenderloin of beef, and slit each one nearly in halves; place a teaspoonful of beef marrow seasoned with salt and cayenne and a few strips of onion in this cavity, pressing the sides together, and brush over with warm butter or oil; place on a warm gridiron over a clear fire for 144 BEEF. ten minutes. Remove, dish and squeeze a little lemon juice over them, serving as hot as possible. Care should be taken to prevent the marrow from oozing out dur- ing the process of cooking. Corned Beef, American Style. Soak the desired quantity of corned beef, and put on to boil in fresh cold water; skim well and simmer until done and tender. Allow it to become cool in the liquor in which it has been cooked, and then before quite cold put in a flat hol- low dish and cover with a board, pressing it with a weight. Remove all the fat from the meat liquor and save it, but take care that it is not allowed to stand in an iron vessel. Have ready boiled two or three beets, small carrots, a small cabbage, some turnip and potatoes, and a small squash ; wash them well and scrape the carrots, cut the cabbage into quarters, pare the turnips and squash, and cut into slices, and pare the potatoes. Place the meat liquor on to boil about two hours before required, and when it boils put in the carrots, cabbage and turnips, and half an hour before dinner add the squash and potatoes. When tender, take up the vegetables carefullv, and drain on a colander, slicing the carrots. Place the cold meat in the center of a large dish, and serve the carrots, potatoes and turnips around the edge, with the squash, cabbage and beets in separate dishes. Boiled Corned Beef and Spinach. Use sufficient of the rump or brisket of corned beef, place in a saucepan and cover with fresh water; boil briskly for an hour and a half, serving with boiled spinach. Hashed Corned Beef. Slice a couple of onions and brown well on a saucepan with a lump of butter, and add some well cooked corned beef chopped fine, and four chopped potatoes. Moisten with a teacupful each of Spanish sauce and broth, seasoning with pepper and nutmeg. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring well all the time. Serve in a dish with poached eggs laid on top, sprinkling over with chopped fried parsley. Beef Croquettes. Chop some cold beef, put a pint of poulette sauce in a stewpan, reduce it to one- half its amount, and thicken with the volks of some egi^s; put the chopped beef in the sauce, adding a little chopped parsley, salt and pepper, mixing well together, and spread out on a dish to a thickness of an inch and a half. Let it get firm and cold, and divide into sixteen equal parts. Strew a board with breadcrumbs evenly, but very thin, and put the sixteen parts of mince on it, leaving a space uf two inches between each; then cover them with a similar thickness of breadcrumbs, and roll each part into the shape of a cork, making them as near an equal size as possible. BEEF. 145 Beat three whites of egg for a minute, so as to mix, but not froth them, and add a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and the same quantity of water. Dip the croquettes into this mixture, roll them in the breadcrumbs, and set on a plate. Twenty minutes before they are to be served have ready some hot fat, arrange the croquettes in a frying-basket, and put them in to fry, and when nearly done move them gently to insure their becoming of an even color, lift them out when a light brown color and crisp. Sprinkle with salt, dish, and serve with a garnish of parsley. Beef Cutlets. Trim all fat and skin from some slices of beef and shape them like cutlets, then salt and pepper them. Place a small lump of butter in a sautepan, and when melted fry the cutlets on both sides till done. Sprinkle over them a little chopped parsley, place on a dish, and pour over them a thick brown gravy. Fricadelles. Mince some cold-cooked beef and add a slice or two of onion finely chopped, and if the meat is very lean a slice or two of fat pork maybe added; season with salt, pepper, sage, thyme, a little lemon juice and parsley, using a little of each, and add a quarter as much breadcrumbs or boiled rice as there is meat; add one beaten egg with sufficient water or stock to form a paste. Make this into balls or c^j; shapes, put them into a fixing pan with butter or dripping and fry to a brown color, or they may be dipped in breadcrumbs, brushed over with c^, then dipped in crumbs again and fried in boiling fat. When done drain and serve on a folded napkin spread over a dish. Fricandeau of Beef. Select a good piece of beef, lard it well with bacon seasoned with pepper, pow- dered cloves, mace and allspice. Place in a stewpan with a pint of broth or beef- graw, a wineglassful of sherry and a bundle of parsley and sweet herbs, a clove of garlic and a shallot or two. When tender cover the meat closely, skim the sauce and strain it and boil until reduced to a glaze. Then mask the larded side with the glaze and serve with tomato sauce. Grenadines of Beef. Cut up a sufficient quantity of the undercut of the rump of beef into cutlets a third of an inch thick, lard them with thin strips of bacon, and place in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, lightly sprinkling the upper side with pepper and salt. Cook very slowly for fifteen minutes, without approaching frying, and then turn on tin- other side and pepper and salt the upper, cooking for fifteen minutes longer. Have in readiness half a pint of good brown gravy thickened with a little flour, coat 146 BEEF. the grenadines with this, place on the dish for serving, pour the gravy over and gar- nish with sprigs of cauliflower, Brussels sprouts. Hashed Beef. Cold roast beef, preferably sirloin, should be used for this dish and should be sliced to half an inch in thickness. Place in a stewpan, cover with stock, adding one or two minced onions and a turnip to every pound of meat required. Let it heat slowly and simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Thicken with flour stirred in smoothly, adding some salt and pepper, and when done place on a dish and serve with some red currant jelly. A wineglass ful of claret and a little sugar may be added to the gravy, if desired; garnish with sippets of toasted bread. Bullock's Heart. In the opinion of most professional cooks the flesh of the heart is too coarse and greasy to be of any value to serve as a separate dish. This would appear to be some- what of an error of judgment, for prepared as follows ox-heart is not only tender but delicious eating. It should be served at all times on very hot plates — hot-water plates, if possible, or dinner plates set upon soup plates containing hot water. The flesh of a cold bullock's heart is sometimes used either to increase the bulk of jugged hare or as- a substitute for the hare itself. Roasted Bullock's Heart. Put a heart in a basin of warm water and let it soak for an hour to take out all the blood. Take it out, wipe dry with a cloth, stuff it with some highly seasoned forcemeat, tic round a piece of well-buttered paper, pass a spit through it and place it in front of a clear fire to roast, basting frequently with butter. When done (it will take about two hours), remove the paper, put it on a dish, pour over piquant sauce or a little rich gravy. Stewed Bullock's Heart. Put a bullock's heart in a basin of water, wash it well and let it soak to clean out the blood. Take it out, dry on a cloth, cut in halves, rub well over with flour, put them in a Eryingpan with a little butter and fry to a brown color. Tut them in a saucepan with a sprig of thyme, and four or five onions cut in slices and fried, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper and pour in sufficient water to cover. Place the pan on the fire and cook slowly for about three hours, then remove, skim the fat from the liquor, reduce it, thicken and add one wineglassful of claret and one teaspoonful of moist sugar. Place the heart again in the saucepan, heat it up, put it on a dish, pour over the gravy and serve. BEEF. 147 Khulash. This dish is greatly esteemed in Germany, and is prepared as follows : Cut about two pounds of the head and fillet of beef into small squares. Cut up an onion into small pieces and fry it in a pan with a little butter, but not long enough to allow it to take color; add the pieces of meat and fry them for ten or fifteen min- utes, add a little salt or cayenne and then remove the pan to the side of the fire and cover the lid with hot ashes. Let it remain for forty-five minutes when the moisture will all have evaporated, pour over a little gravy and continue to cook for an hour and a half. Dust over a little more cayenne, pour over two tablcspoonfuls of brown sauce and cook for another ten minutes or so. Cut some potatoes in small dice or squares, blanch in cold water lor a few minutes, roll them well in sauce, allow them to remain for a few minutes and serve. Beef Kidneys. The size of these and their somewhat coarse nature, places them quite outside the usual culinary preparations prescribed for the smaller kidneys, such as sheep's, lamb's, etc., nevertheless modern artistic cooks have found several effective modes of cook- ing them. Fried Beef Kidneys. Cut two kidneys in slices and soak in warm water for two and one-half hours, changing the water once or twice so as to cleanse them thoroughly; take the slices out, dust them over with Hour, salt and pepper, put them in a frvingpan with three ounces of butter and fry to a light brown; place them in a circle on a dish, mix one tablespoonful of piquant sauce in one-half pint of gravy, add a teaspoonful of moist BUgar, pour it in the center of the circle, and serve. As a rule beef kidneys are coarse, but cooked as above they are tender and luscious. Fried Beef Kidneys with Champagne. Select some kidneys that are of a good color, remove a little of the fat, mince them, mix with a little chopped parsley and shallots, and season with salt and pepper. Place this in a frying] i;m over a moderate fire, and when done dust over with flour, add a wineglassful of champagne and two or three tablcspoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and serve. Beef Kidney Rissoles. Cut a beef kidney into even slices and shape them into rounds, also the same quantity of bacon or ham cut into smaller rounds. Place the slices of bacon and ham the kidney, then hard boiled eggs in slices over them, and fasten the slices together with a little warmed butter and the beaten yolk of an c^. Sprinkle over i 4 8 BEEF. with salt and pepper, cover them well with breadcrumbs, put them in a saucepan with a little butter, and fry for half an hour. Serve on a dish with brown gravy. Stewed Beef Kidneys. Stew some beef kidneys in a little salted water until done, then put them on a dish and sprinkle over salt and pepper, add a small quantity of flour to the liquor to thicken it and a little burnt sugar to color it, pour it over the kidneys and serve hot. Boiled Beef Liver and Rice. Soak one and one-half pounds of liver in cold water for half an hour to remove the blood, boil it slowly in three pints of water together with one-half pound of rice, add an onion, a sprig of parsley, and when the liver and rice are nearly cooked add pepper and salt to taste, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a slice of bacon cut in pieces. Remove the liver, cut it in slices and return them to the stew till all are suf- ficiently done. Serve hot. Macedoine of Beef. The desired quantity of rump steak is cut into slices half an inch in thickness and formed into the shape of cutlets, three inches by two inches, flat; trim all to the same size and lard thickly on one side with fine lardoons of bacon fat. Lav out, larded side uppermost, in a flat pan and nearly cover with richly flavored stock; cover the pan with a lid and braise in an oven for an hour. Remove the lid, baste the slices with gravy and let them remain uncovered in the oven until the larding has taken color; they arc then ready to dish. Use equal amounts of sliced carrots, tur- nips, cutting into fancy shapes; green peas, string beans, asparagus tops and small sprigs of cauliflowers; boil all in salted water until quite tender. Melt in a saucepan a lump of butter, add a little flour and stir in enough milk to make a sauce, adding pepper, salt and a little grated nutmeg. Put into this sauce all the vegetables, of which there should be sufficient quantity to make them adhere together, and toss them gently in it until quite hot. Pile in the middle of a dish and place the slices around them in a circle. Skin off all fat from the gravy, pour it around the dish but not over the slices, and serve. Beef Marrow. The fatty contents of the long bones of tin- >>\ are esteemed a great delicacy. At one time it was considered quite the fashion to serve marrow-bones at table as a sort of luxurious supper dish; they were then dressed as follows: Marrow Bones. Take the bones from two legs "I beei and saw them into pit-ees about four inches long. Scrape them well to clean them and put them in cold water to soak. Place BEEF. 149 them in a saucepan side by side, not standing up, cover with good stock, boil up quickly and then remove to the side of the fire and cook slowly for an hour and a half. Take out the bones, drain them, place on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve with slices of hot toast. Beef Marrow Fritters. Put one-half pound of marrow, taken from the largest bones of the animal and kept in one piece, into cold water and let it soak. Put it in a saucepan with good broth, boil for ten minutes, and then let it cool in its liquor. When quite cold drain and cut it into two dozen slices; cover half of them on one side only with some cooked fine herbs, and over that again put a layer of cooked truffle and glaze it all over (both truffle and marrow) with a paste brush; when the glaze is cold take the pieces of marrow singly, dip them into frying batter and fry them; when the batter is dry and of good color drain the fritters, put them on a napkin folded on a dish, arrange them in a heap, and serve them with a garnish of fried parsley. Minced Beef. Cut some slices of cold roast beef to a half inch in thickness, and cut these into strips of about an equal width, slicing up finely. Place in a stevvpan a wineglassful of port wine, a shallot chopped fine, the shredded rind of half an orange, and a little grated nutmeg ; season with salt and cayenne pepper, and allow it to simmer for four or five minutes. Then add a little brown sauce; mix the beef with this preparation, adding a few drops of lemon-juice, and boil the whole again. Place in the middle o! a dish, place a few raspings of bread over it, place some three-cornered pieces o" bread fried in butter around it, a poached egg on each, with scallops of tongue in between, then serve. Minced Beef, Spanish Style. Thin slices of cold meat should be cut into strips and then into dice; place in a saucepan, and brown in oil ; add a few finely-chopped shallots, one onion, and a green pepper cut into pieces. After becoming well-browned, about five minutes, put in a pint of Spanish sauce, a little salt and a like amount of pepper. Cook again for fifteen minutes, serving with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley scattered over it. Beef, Neapolitan Style. Procure a fresh piece of silverside, about six or eight pounds in weight, and make two or three holes in it with a carving knife, and insert in each a strip of fat bacon, rolled in powdered sweet herbs and pepper. Tie up the meat with tape to it in shape. Then mince some fat bacon, adding a clove of garlic, an onion, some parsley, thyme and marjoram ; when well mixed, put in a saucepan with the i 5 o BEEF. meat and stew, turning the meat frequently until it is well-browned on all sides ; then moisten with plenty of tomato sauce diluted with a little stock, and pepper and salt to taste. Stew the meat slowly until done, then remove the tape, and serve with macaroni around the dish, dressed as follows : Boil it in water, and when soft, mix it with some of the meat, strained from all fat, adding plenty of grated Parmesan cheese. The macaroni should be mixed in a warmed tureen, but not over the fire. Boiled Ox-Tails. Put two dozen small onions into a saucepan with three pints of water and boil for about twenty minutes. Cut two ox-tails into pieces, put them into a saucepan with a large Lump of butter and a large onion; brown, then pour in the water from the boiled onions, adding more water if necessary to cover them. Add of each two or three carrots and turnips cut in small pieces, putting in the carrots about twenty minutes before the turnips. Boil slowly, and when the tails and vegetables are done take them out and keep hot on a dish. Put an ounce of butter in another pan, melt it, and stir in flour enough to make it quite stiff, pour in the strained gravy from the tails, adding a little at a time, and stir well till it boils. Place the pieces of tails in the center of the dish, arrange the vegetables around them, pour over the sauce, and serve with the boiled onions for a garnish. Braised Ox-Tails with Chestnut Puree. Cut the thickest part of a fresh ox-tail into pieces about three inches long, soak them in water for a few hours, then blanch them. Put some lavcrs of fat bacon and some sliced carrots and onions into an oblong stewpan, add a bunch of sweet herbs and the slices of tail. Add a little salt, cover them with white wine and broth mixed in equal quantities and put on the top some slices of fat bacon or some pork rind. When boiling move the pan to the side of the fire, put some live embers on the lid and braise the contents for five or six hours, adding more broth to keep the quantity. Broiled Ox-Tails. Wash the tails thoroughly and cut the thick parts into joints, put them in a stew- pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a small quantity of salt and cayenne pepper, and cover with common stock. When the liquor comes to a boil move to the side of the fire and cook slowlv for two and one-half hours. Then remove them and drain well on a sieve, brush over with a paste brush dipped in the beaten yolk of egg and cover thickly with finelv grated breadcrumbs. Place them on a gridiron and broil over a brisk fire, turning constantly. When ready lav them on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve with a sauceboatful of tartar sauce. BEEF. 151 Stewed Ox-Tails. Divide two ox-tails into natural sections, blanch them for twenty minutes, and then put them into a basin of water and let them soak for an hour; then drain and put them into a saucepan with five pints of vegetable broth, place it over the fire, when the liquor boils skim it and add one-half pound of onions, sliced, and one pound of car- rots turned into cork shapes, three or four cloves, salt and pepper. Remove the pan to the side of the fire and cook slowly for three or four hours, or until the meat is tender. Pour the contents of the saucepan into a colander to drain into another saucepan, take out the pieces of tail, wipe them dry on a cloth and put them into a one-half gallon saucepan. Take the carrots out of the colander and put them into another saucepan, skim off the fat from the liquor, reduce it to half its original quan- tity, and pour half of it in the saucepan with the carrots and the other half into the saucepan with the pieces of tail. Warm both the carrots and pieces of tail, arrange the latter on a dish, garnish with the former and ten or twelve good-sized glazed onions, pour the gravy over all, and serve. Blanquctte of Beef Palates with Truffles. Rub some beef palates over with salt, put them in a saucepan with a slice of lemon, a small lump of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and water enough to cover, and stew them. Cut some truffles into small pieces, season with salt, put them into a fryingpan with a lump of butter, and fry lightly over a brisk fire till cooked. Put the truffles into a sauce blanquctte, give them one boil up, move the sauce to the side of the fire and thicken with a liaison of beaten eggs. Drain the palates, skin them, put them in the sauce, then turn the whole into a deep dish, and serve. Beef Palate Croquettes. Put three palates into a saucepan of water and boil over a moderate fire until done. Take them out, scrape and cut them into quarters. Put them into another saucepan with two heads of cloves, a clove of garlic, a little thyme and bay-leaves, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient stock to cover, and cook slowly for half an hour; then take out the palates, put a teaspoonful of beef forcemeat on each quarter, roll them up, and dip into a thin paste made of flour, one tablespoonful of olive oil and one half pint of white wine. Plunge them into a fryingpan of boiling fat, fry until done, arrange them on a dish with a garnish of fried parsley, and serve very hot or they will be spoiled. Curried Beef Palates. Prepare two palates as for braising, cutting them up into shapes. Put them into a saucepan with sufficient brown stock to cover, and add one or two onions, cut in slices, a tablespoonful of curry powder, half the quantity of curry paste, two table- 152 BEEF. spoonfuls of flour mixed in a little stock, and salt to taste ; put the pan on the fire, stir frequently, and cook slowly until they are done. Just before serving add two tablespoonfuls of cream to the liquor, mix it in, turn the whole out onto a dish and serve very hot. Fricassee of Beef Palates with Truffles. The palates must be boiled till tender in salted water in which has been placed a slice of lemon and a lump of butter. Drain and skin the palates, and cut them into small pieces. Put two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour into a sauce- pan, and stir over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes, but do not let it take color ; then pour on gradually the required quantity of chicken broth, add a few mushrooms, small onions and a bunch of parsley, and boil the sauce till well flavored with the herbs. Strain the sauce into another stewpan, season with salt and sugar, and boil till reduced. Cut some truffles into small pieces, put them in a frying-pan with some butter, add a little salt and fry over a brisk fire. Move the sauce to the side of the fire, stir in a liaison of beaten yolks of eggs ; put the truffles and palates into the sauce, and make them hot again without boiling. Turn the fricassee into a deep dish or a casserole of rice, and serve. Paupiettes of Beef Palates. Cut off five or six fillets from some cooked beef palates; trim, and cut them into halves. Have ready a salpicon of cooked fine herbs, finished with truffles and thick- ened with forcemeat, cover the fillets over with it, and roll them round into the shape of paupiettes, fastening them with small skewers. Dip them into well beaten egg, cover with breadcrumbs, and fry in a frvingpan of boiling fat until they are done. Take them out, drain, remove the skewers, place them on a napkin on a dish, in the form of a pyramid, and serve. Beef Pot-Pie. Cut into pieces of equal size some coarse fat beef, put in a saucepan with cold water, and stew for about two hours with the lid on the pan; add a few slices of fat pork or bacon, an onion, salt and pepper to taste, and a thickening of flour and water ; turn into a dish, lined with biscuit dough, such as is used for dumplings, cover over with more of the dough, and bake in a quick oven until done. Turn out on a dish, and serve. Beefsteak- Pic with Oysters. Cut six or seven thin slices out of a sirloin of beef, beat them and season with salt and pepper, flour them, and arrange in a pic-dish, surrounded by two do/cn blanched oysters. Pour a little cold gravy on the bottom of the dish, and cover the pic with a good crust, baking lightly for an hour ami a quarter. BEEF. 153 Beefsteak and Kidney Pudding. Cut some long rump steaks into pieces about a quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle over them some salt, pepper and flour. Chop up a beef kidney into seven or eight pieces, and place together with the meat in a buttered basin lined with suet-crust, pour over a little water or weak stock, and cover with a flat of paste, fastening it all around the edge. Tic a well floured cloth over the basin, put in a saucepan of water and boil for two hours, adding more water if necessary. When done, turn the pud- ding carefully into a dish, and serve very hot. Beef Rissolettes. Mince some fresh beef very fine, removing all skin and gristle, mix with it about a fourth of its weight in breadcrumbs, adding an onion boiled tender, and a few drops of essence of anchovy, pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to make it into a stiff paste. Roll into egg-shaped balls, dip each in egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and fry gentlv. Then prepare a little gravy by boiling the trimmings of the meat in the water the onion was boiled in, and when they are done, pour the fat from the fryingpan and allow the gravy to boil up in it, and thicken with a small quantity of flour and water. Stir in the juice of half a lemon, seasoning with pepper and salt, and place the risso- lettes around a heap of mashed potatoes on a dish, pour the gravy around but not over them, and serve. Roast Beef, American Style. Lay the meat on some sticks in a dripping-pan, so as not to touch the water which it is requisite to have in the bottom; season with salt and pepper and place in a roasting-oven for three or four hours. Baste frequently with the water in the bottom of the pan. Sift over the meat before serving some powdered and browned crackers, and garnish with parsley. Roast Beef on the Spit. Remove most of the (lap from the sirloin and trim neatly; have a clear, brisk fire, and place the meat close to it for the first half hour, then move it farther away, bast- ing frequently, and when done, sprinkle the joint well with salt. The gravy may be prepared by taking the meat from the dripping-pan, which will leave a brown sedi- ment; pour in some boiling water and salt, and stir thoroughly, straining over the meat. A thickening of Hour may be added if necessary. Garnish with horseradish and serve with horseradish sauce in a tureen. Roast Ribs of Beef. Break off the ends of tin: bones of the desired amount of ribs of beef, take out the chine-bone, and place the meat in a baking pan, sprinkle over some salt, put i 5 4 BEEF. small lumps of butter over it, and dust with flour, baking in a moderate oven till done. When done, place on a dish, garnish with horseradish, and serve very hot. Smoked Beef. To each twelve pounds of beef rub in the following mixture : One pint of salt, a breakfast cupful of brown sugar, the same amount of molasses, and half a tea- spoonful of pounded saltpeter. After rubbing it well into the beef, allow it to lie in the mixture, turning it over several times, for ten days, when drain, rub bran over it, and hang in the smoke-house to smoke for several days. Smoked Beef with Cream. Place the finely minced beef in a stewpan with a lump of butter, cooking it for two minutes, and moisten slightly with a little cream, and add two tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and serve as soon as it boils up. Smothered Beef. Select the middle of the rump, flank or round of beef, wipe clean with a moist cloth, and sear it all over by placing it in a fryingpan and turning it until the surface is browned. Place in a kettle with a little water, and keep it to just the boiling point ; fit the cover over tightly to keep in the steam, and add a little water now and then as it boils aw^av. Cook until quite tender, serving hot or cold, as preferred. Spiced Beef. Remove the bones from a piece of thin flank of beef and soak for ten days in a covered crock containing a pickle composed of the following ingredients: Boil for twenty minutes two gallons of water, five pounds of salt, two pounds of coarse sugar and four ounces of saltpeter, with two ounces of black pepper and three ounces of mixed spice slightly bruised in a mortar and tied up in a muslin bag and a few bay leaves. Skim off the scum as it rises and let it stand until cold. Fried Steak, American Style. Tenderloin or porterhouse steak is to be selected fortius, put it on a clean block, beat it well, but not hard enough to make it look ragged, sprinkle over pepper and salt and dredge with flour on both sides. Place in a hot frvingpan, cover and fry until done, turning frequently. Before it gets hard butter well and place on a hot dish, pepper again, and if desired pour over a tablespoonful of chili vinegar and a tablespoonful of made mustard, and pour the hot gravy over all. Sift powdered i >>\ i r, ^\n(\ serve. BEEF. 155 Hamburg Steak. Break the fiber of a round steak by beating well, fry two or three onions minced fine in butter slightly browned, spread the onions over the meat, fold the ends of the meat together and pound again to keep the onions in the middle; broil two or three minutes; season with salt and pepper and butter well. Fried Hamburg Steak with Russian Sauce. Select a piece of the buttock of beef, remove all the fat, and chop very fine, lay it in a bowl and add a very finely chopped shallot, two raw eggs, a little salt and pepper together with a little grated nutmeg. Mix well together and form the mass into six balls the size of fillets ; roll these in breadcrumbs, and fry in a pan with a little clarified butter for four or five minutes, turning frequently and keeping them slightly underdone. Serve with a Russian sauce. Broiled Loin Steak Two loin steaks of about a pound each arc required for this dish ; season them with salt and pepper to taste, baste on either side with a little oil, place on a broiler over a bright charcoal fire, and broil them for six minutes, each side. Serve on a hot dish with Bordeaux sauce over them, and garnished with rounds of marrow. Fried Minced Beefsteak. Cut from the flank the desired amount of meat with a little fat with it, season well with salt and pepper, and pour over a little water. Press this mince into a tin, and cut into slices, which place in a frvingpan with butter and fry until quite done and well browned ; then place on a dish, pour over rich gravy, and serve. Broiled Double Porterhouse Steak. . Select a porterhouse steak of about three pounds in weight, cut thick, and broil over a rather slow fire (a charcoal fire is preferable ) for ten minutes on each side, and serve garnished with watercress. Broiled Rib Steak. Cut the steak about half an inch thick from between the two ribs, remove all the gristle and fat, trim to a flat pear-shape, and sprinkle both sides with pepper and salt and oil to prevent outside hardening; broil twelve minutes over a moderate and even fire. Place about four ounces of maitre d'hotel butter on a dish, lay the steak upon it and garnish with fried potatoes, serving either piquant, Italian or tomato sauce with the steak. 156 BEEF. Broiled Sirloin Steak. Cut the steak to about half an inch in thickness, place on a gridiron over a clear fire and broil until done. Place on a dish with a little warmed butter poured over it, and serve. Beefsteak with Anchovv Butter. For a medium-sized steak take one large anchovv, well washed and dried and pounded on a board. Mix the anchovv with a little butter, pass through a hair sieve, place the mixture on a warm dish, lav the steak on it, and serve. Stewed Beef. Remove the meat from the bones and place the bones and fat in a stewpan. Cut the meat into small pieces, and if not already cooked, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and brown in a fryingpan with salt pork or drippings, then place in the stew- pan with the bones. Next cut up two onions, a small turnip and half a carrot into dice of about a half inch in size, cook lightly in the drippings in the pan and afterwards add them to the stew: pour in boiling water sufficient to cover all, and simmer for two or three hours until the meat is quite tender. Pare six or eight small potatoes, soak them in cold water, pour boiling water over them and boil for five minutes. When the meat is done skim the stock and drain these potatoes, adding them to the stew. Season with salt and pepper to taste and remove all the bones before serving. Tenderloin of Beef. Select a good tenderloin of beef, wipe well, and remove all fat, veins and tough portions, trimming into shape. Lard the upper side, and dredge with salt, pepper and flour, putting several pieces of pork into the pan, under the meat, and bake in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes. If preferable, the pork may be omitted and a fat piece of the beef used in its stead. Serve the meat with mushroom sauce, or brush the tenderloin with beaten egg and sprinkle seasoned breadcrumbs over it, or stuff the incisions made by removing the veins and tendons with forcemeat, and dredge with salt and flour. Braised Larded Tenderloin of Beef. Place in a saucepan a larded tenderloin of beef, pour over it a glassful or so of white wine, a little brandy, and some rich stock, adding an onion and carrot cut into thick slices, a bunch of thyme and parsley, and bay leaf, salting and peppering to taste. Place on the fire and boil quickly, skimming it thoroughly, and remove to the side and simmer gently until the meat is done. Tut the joint on a dish, skim ami strain the liquor, and reduce it; alter which warm the whole at the side of the fire for ten minutes, without boiling, and serve, pouring the gravy around the beef. BEEF. Broiled Tenderloin of Beef. 57 Cut a slice from the tenderloin about an inch thick, wipe dry, and dust with pepper and salt. Grease well a gridiron, and broil the meat over a clear fire, turning every ten counts for three to five minutes. Spread with maitre d'hotel butter, and serve. Broiled Tenderloin, Cheron. Broil three tenderloin steaks, and place them on a dish on top of a gill of hot Bearnaise sauce, and put on each steak one hot artichoke bottom filled with hot Macedoinc; then pour over just a small quantity of meat glaze, and serve. Tenderloin, Florentin. Three tenderloin steaks should be prepared exactly as for broiled tenderloin, Cheron. pour a gill of hot Madeira sauce over the steaks and garnish with three hot artichokes a la Florentin, and serve. Larded Tenderloin of Beet. Trim thorough] v a short tenderloin of beef, and dust with salt and pepper, and flour well ; fasten it into shape with skewers, and lard it in two rows with strips of oork. Place in a bakingpan with any liquor, and bake for half an hour. It should first be placed in the coolest part of the oven for ten minutes, and then in the hottest for the remainder of the time. When done, dish and serve with Ilollandaise or tomato sauce, or mushroom catsup. Minions of Tenderloin, Lorillard. When the six timbales, as below described, have been prepared and taken from the oven, have in readiness six fine tenderloin minions and serve them with the fol- lowing garnish : Procure six small timbale moulds about an inch and three-quarters in diameter by two inches deep, butter the insides and place them in an ice-box to become cold; then take one good sized cooked carrot, one cooked turnip, and cut them with a tube a quarter of an inch in diameter, by one inch in length; a medium sized white cabbage, with the outer leaves trimmed neatly, should also be placed in readiness. Then place in a stewpan an ounce of salt pork cut into small dice-shaped pieces, put in the cabbage and season with half a pinch of pepper, place the pan over a rather slow fire, cover it well, and cook gradually for half an hour without taking off the lid. While tin's is cooking decorate the six timbales by laying a slice of truffle half an inch in diameter at the bottom of each in the middle, and with a lard- ing-needle arrange a row of cooked peas around this, decorate half the interior of the timbales with half of the carrots and turnips, and keep them all inclining slightly 158 BEEF. toward the right, and the other half toward the left ; and then fill up the timbales with cooked cabbage, pressing it down gently, so as to fill the moulds entirely up to the top. Then put them on a roasting pan, fill with hot water to half the height of the timbales and put them in a hot oven for from three to four minutes, then remove from the oven and put the pan at the side of the stove so that it will keep just warm ; cut an oval-shaped slice from an American loaf of bread about an inch in thickness, pare the edges neatly, and butter it thinly, and brown lightly in the oven, then lav it on a very hot dish, and dress the six minions on top of the bread croustade, each lengthwise and overlapping each other a trifle. Then pour over half a pint of hot Colbert sauce, to which may be added whatever parings of slices of truffle that remain about a minute before it is to be used ; then with a towel remove the timbales from the pan one at a time; turn them upside down, unmould, and decorate the dish with them, placing one at either end and two at each side, when the dish should be sent to the table at once. Minions of Tenderloin, Pompadour. Procure two and a half pounds of tender fillet of beef, pare it neatly all around and cut it up into six equal sized small fillets; flatten them slightly and equally and put them on a dish, season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, then put them in a pan on a hot range with half a gill of clarified butter, allowing them to cook for four minutes on cither side, next prepare a pint of Bcarnaisc sauce, dress three-quarters of it on a hot dish and reserve the other quarter for further use. Next lay six round-shaped pieces of bread croutons fried in butter over the Bearnaise sauce and dress the six fillets one on top of each crouton and fix six warmed artichoke bottoms right in the middle of the fillets ; fill up the artichokes with a tablespoonful of hot jardiniere garnishing and evenly divide the remaining pint of hot Bearnaise sauce over the jardiniere, and then cut into six evenlv shaped slices one good sized truffle and put one slice on the top of each in the center of the Bearnaise sauce, and serve as hot as possible. Minions of Tenderloin, Sauted Bearnaise. Cut from the end of a tenderloin of beef some slices about five-eighths of an inch in thickness, trim and press them into circles and sprinkle over some salt and pepper, saute then in butter and spread some sauce Bearnaise on a hot dish and place the minions over, and serve. Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef, Plain. After trimming the tenderloin of beef, cut it into slices and lightly flatten them to about three-eighths of an inch in thickness ami trim them round. .After this is done each one should weigh about three ounces ; then salt them on both sides; place BEEF. 159 them in a saucepan over a hot fire together with a little oil and a similar quantity of butter and cook rapidly for five to seven minutes. When cooked put them on a plate, glaze and serve on a dish with a little gravy poured around. Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef, Rossini. After preparing them exactly as for plain noisettes, glaze and place them upon small pieces of toast, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the same shape and size as the noisettes, and fry them in a little oil. Select some very large chicken livers, and cut them into pretty thick slices, and cook them in some butter in a pan; place a slice on each noisette, and then a round slice of truffle on this ; cover the whole with Madeira sauce with a small quantity of essence of truffle added to it. Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef with Puree of Mushrooms. Prepare them the same is for plain noisettes, then glaze and lay them on round flat croustades made from parings of good puff paste, and decorate with mushroom puree. Stewed Tenderloin of Beef with Oysters. To each pound of tenderloin steak required, use one dozen ovsters, as follows: Mix a little butter and flour together in a stewpan ; peel and chop up a Spanish onion, cut up two pickled walnuts and place them in the stewpan, together with two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Put the steak in on top of these, and stew for an hour, turning every twenty minutes or so. but do not let it come to the boiling point. Open the ovsters, remove their beards, strain the liquor through a sieve, and add them just before serving. Tournedos of Beef, New York Style. Cut from a cooked tenderloin of beef the requisite number of slices about half an inch in thickness ami put them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them, warm on the side of the fire, but without boiling. Cut as man}' slices of bread to the same size and thickness as the meat and place them in a fryingpan with some fat skimmed off of stock and fry. Arrange the slices of meat and bread alternately around the dish, filling the center with cooked string beans or olives, and serve together with a sauceboatful of piquant sauce. Tournedos of Tenderloin of Beef, Plain. These are prepared the same as noisettes of beef, but are smaller in size, weighing about two ounces instead of three as for the noisettes. Salt and pepper over and put them in some warm fat in a sautepan and cook over a brisk fire, turn- 160 BEEF. ing them but once during the process of cooking, then drain, wipe and glaze them, pour a little clear gravy in the bottom of a dish, lay on the tournedos, and serve. They should be cooked from four to six minutes. Boiled Tongues. Soak the prepared tongues over night in a liberal quantity of cold water to freshen them slightly, if they are salted, or blanch them if they are fresh. On the following day put them in a saucepan over the fire with fresh cold water for boiling tongues, or boiling water for fresh ones, and allow twenty minutes for each tongue from the time they begin to boil. A sliced lemon, or one teacupful of vinegar, and one teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns boiled with a large tongue, or less for smaller tongues, and so on in proportion, greatly improves the flavor. When the tongues are done take them up, peel off the skins and return them again to the hot liquor to keep them warm, or if they are to be used cold let them cool in it. When serving them cut them into long slices, beginning near the tip. All the fleshy parts and the fat near the roots of the tongues will serve to make excellent hash when cold, but are not generally served with the tongue. Boiled Beef Tongue with Chestnuts. Place a pickled beef tongue in a bowl of water to soak, then put it in a saucepan with water to cover and boil for two hours; take it out, drain and remove the skin. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with vegetables cut in slices and a few sweet herbs, place the tongue on top and pour in enough broth and white wine to moisten to half its height. Cover with paper, place over a slow fire and cook until the tongue is ten- der, turning it occasionally so as to glaze it on both sides. Have ready a puree of chestnuts, moderately thick, spread it over a dish and place the tongue on it; add a little more broth to the liquor in the saucepan, boil well, skim and strain into another saucepan, reduce it to half-glaze, pour it over the tongue, and serve. Braised Beef Tongue. Soak a beef tongue in warm water until all the blood is extracted and the water quite cold. Take it out, drain, trim off the superfluous fat and lard the meat with fat bacon. Put it in a braising pan with a few cloves, carrots and onions, a little thyme and parsley, two slices of fat bacon or pork, sufficient stock to moisten it and salt and pepper to taste. Set the pan at the side of the fire, cover it, place hot ashes on the top and cook slowly for about four hours. Take out the tongue when done, remove the skin, cut it lengthwise into halves, lay them open on a dish, pour some tomato or piquant sauce over, and serve. BEEF. 161 Broiled Slices of Beef Tongue in Cases. Cut up into thick slices a braised beef tongue, cover them with thin slices of ba- con, sprinkle over a few minced sweet herbs and wrap the whole round with pieces of greased paper, folding them in such a manner that the liquor cannot run out; place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil. When done lay them on a dish, and serve. Beef Tongue Financiere. Blanch a couple of fresh beef tongues, put them into a saucepan lined with vege- tables cut in slices and a few small pieces of bacon, moisten with a little broth, cover the tongues with paper, put the saucepan on the fire with hot ashes on the lid, and cook until the tongues are quite tender. Remove and drain them; trim the thick or root ends, making them as round as possible, and with a sharp knife cut the tongues transversely to half their length and remove the top pieces. Cut these into slices and put them back in their places. Put a flat crouton of fried bread in the center of a dish, mask it with forcemeat poached in the oven, glaze the tongues and put them on it, with their root ends meeting in the middle; surround the base with a financiere garnishing and garnish with quenelles made with a spoon, and some larger ones studded with truffles. Serve with a sauccboatful of brown sauce reduced with wine. Should salted tongues be used they will only require to be boiled with plenty of water until they are tender, and then treated as above. Beef Tongue, Gourmet Style. Boil a beef tongue in plenty of water for three hours. When cooked, drain, peel the skin off, and trim it nicely. Lard and braise four sweetbreads. Take the fillets of two or three chickens, trim them nicely, put them in a buttered sautepan and saute them. Peel sufficient potatoes that will when mashed fill a border mould, boil till tender, then drain and mash them with a little butter; press them in a border mould, and set them in a bain-marie for a few minutes. When the fillets of chickens are cooked, take them out of the pan, and keep them hot. Pour one and one-half pints of white sauce, and one-half pint of veal stock into a saucepan, and boil till rather thickly reduced, stirring all the time; then mix one tcacupful of cream with it, and season with a small quantity of moist sugar. Glaze the tongue and sweetbreads. Turn the potato border on a hot dish, put the tongue in the center, place two of the sweetbreads at each end, the fillets of chicken at each side, pour the sauce over them, straining it through a fine hair sieve, and serve at once. Minced Beef Tongue. Cut any cold cooked beef tongue into oblong-shaped pieces, cut them again transversely into slices, and put them into a saucepan with a few slices of uncooked 162 BEEF. truffle. Cut an onion and three small Jerusalem artichokes into slices and again into quarters, place them in a fryingpan with a little oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, and fry over a moderate fire until done. Add one tablespoonful of finely- minced parsley, cook for a minute or two, and then add the pieces of tongue and truffles. Cook for three or four minutes longer, remove the pan from the fire, and pour in the juice of two lemons. Turn the mince out onto a dish, garnish with pieces of bread fried in butter, and serve. Scalloped Beef Tongue. Chop up sufficient cold cooked beef tongue to fill two breakfast cups, and mix in one teaspoonful each of capers, chopped parsley and salt, a little pepper, and one tablespoonful of onion juice, mixed with a teacupful of stock. Sprinkle sifted breadcrumbs over a well-buttered scallop dish, put in the tongue preparation, cover with more breadcrumbs, making the total quantity used one breakfast cupful, and put some small pieces of butter here and there over the top. Place the dish in the oven, bake for twenty minutes, remove and serve at once. Stewed Beef Tongue. Cut the root off a tongue, but do not take all the fat off. Salt the tongue for a week with common salt and a little saltpeter, turning it every day. Then boil it till the skin can be easily removed. When skinned, stew it in a little good gravy until sufficiently tender, seasoning with mushroom catsup, sov, cayenne, pounded cloves and a little salt, if required. Serve with morels, mushrooms or truffles. Beef Tongue, Terrapin Style. Put a salted beer tongue into a saucepan of water, and boil it until quite tender ; remove it, drain, and cut in halves lengthwise. Stick a few cloves in, put the pieces into another saucepan with sufficient water to cover, add an onion cut in slices, a little mace and browned flour, boil for a few minutes, and put in three finely chopped hard boiled eggs, remove the pan from the fire, pour in one wineglassful of wine, turn the whole out on a dish, and serve very hot with a garnish of hard boiled eggs cut in slices. Tripe. This is usually bought ready prepared, but as instances may occur when the cook may have to clean it, the following instructions may be useful: Wash the stomach well as soon as it is taken trom the bullock, changing the water several times ; dust the dark inside coat with quicklime, and scrape it at once. Cut it up into four parts, dip them into boiling water, and scrape them until they become perfectly white. Put them into a bowl with a weak brine thickened with meal, and allow them BEEF. 163 to remain for a day. Scrape and soak them in this way for seven or eight days, then put them into a saucepan with oatmeal gruel to cover, and boil it until tender. The tripe should be tied up in a cloth. Turn it out of the cloth, place it in a bowl of weak brine, let it remain for a day or so, and it is then ready for use. Or put the pieces of the stomach of a fat bullock, one at a time, in a saucepan of water, and warm them ; remove, scrape well, put them into a bowl of slightly salted water, wash them well, change the water daily, and allow them to soak for five or six davs, by which time they should be quite white. Place them in a saucepan of water and boil them ; if not required for immediate use, keep them in vinegar. Tripe a la Mode de Caen. Take five or six pounds of double tripe, one cow heel, three calf's feet, all well washed and cleaned in fresh water, and cut them into pieces two inches long by one inch square. Have handy an earthenware pot or saucepan, place some of the pieces of feet at the bottom, cover over with tripe, then a layer of sliced onions and carrots, and continue the same until the vessel is full, seasoning each layer. Tie up in a cloth a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, a dozen whole peppers and half a dozen cloves; place this in the middle of the pot, and pour over one pint of cider or white wine and a wineglassful of brandy. Cover the top over with some stalks of green leeks, parsley roots and cabbage leaves, put the lid on the pan, fastening it down with paste, so that the steam cannot escape, and leave it for ten hours in a very slow oven. Serve it on a hot dish. Tripe and Onions. Putone pound of tripe into a saucepan with four large onions cut into slices, sprinkle overone teaspoonful of salt and a small quantity of pepper, and pour over one pint of water, place the saucepan on the fire and boil for about twenty-five minutes, or until the tripe is tender. Take out the tripe and onions, skim the fat off the liquor, reduce it to half its original quantity, add a thickening of milk and flour, and boil for a minute or two; replace the tripe and onions, simmer at the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, turn the whole out onto a dish and serve hot. Baked Tripe with Potatoes. Cut one pound of tripe into one-inch squares, put them into an earthenware basin with four chopped onions, and one teaspoonful each of pepper and salt, cover with stock or water, place the basin in a slow oven and bake for three hours. Strain off the liquor into a saucepan, skim it, add sufficient flour to thicken and boil it up once. Arrange the tripe and onions in a pic-dish, pour over the liquor and cover the top with mashed potatoes, stand the dish in a hot oven and bake for ten minutes, so as to heat the mass thoroughly and brown the surface. Remove it and serve the dish without delay. :6 4 BEEF. Tripe Bordelaise. Take one and one-half pounds of tripe and cut it into a dozen lozenge-shaped pieces and let them marinade for two hours in one tablespoonful of oil, with a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, one bay-leaf, one sprig of thyme, half a dozen whole peppers, the juice of a lemon and a crushed clove of garlic. Drain, roll them in flour, then in beaten eggs, and lastly in sifted breadcrumbs. Fry them in one ounce of clarified butter in a pan for five or six minutes on either side, and serve with one gill of maitre d'hotel butter, adding to it one teaspoonful of meat glaze. Broiled Tripe. Wash well a piece of tripe, place it in a saucepan with sufficient milk and water to cover it, and boil it for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Take it out, drain it, cut it up into pieces, brush them over with warm butter, sprinkle over salt and pepper to taste, place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil until well browned. Place them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve. Broiled Tripe with Tartar Sauce. Put two pounds of tripe cut up into large squares into a basin, sprinkle them with salt, pepper, or cayenne, add two tablespoonfuls of minced onion and a small quantity of chopped parsley, pour over some oil, and allow the whole to remain for an hour. Take them out singly, roll them in oil, cover with breadcrumbs, put them on a gridiron over a bright fire, and broil them for twenty minutes or so. When done, put them on a dish, and serve with tartar sauce, either poured around or served in a sauccboat. Tripe, Creole Style. Cut one and one-half pounds of tripe into small pieces, fry them in a pan with two ounces of butter, one chopped onion, and half of a green pepper, also chopped. Brown them slightly for six minutes, then transfer them to a saucepan with one chopped tomato and one-half pint of Spanish sauce, and season with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, adding a garnished bouquet, also a crushed clove of garlic. Cook for ten minutes, and serve with one teaspoonful of chopped parsley sprinkled over. Curried Tripe. Cut the tripe into small pieces. Slice two or three onions, according t>> place them in a stewpan witli a lump of butter, and brown them over a quick tire. Tut the tripe in with the onions, pour in enough broth to cover it, and stew gently until tender. Put one teaspoonful of Hour in a basin with one tablespoonful of eurry powder ; then stir in slowly one-half teacupful of cream and one teacupfuJ BEEF. 165 of broth. When quite smooth stir the curry in with the tripe, and boil it for a few minutes longer, until thickened, stirring now and then. When cooked, turn the tripe onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Fricassee of Tripe. Cut one pound or so of tripe into two-inch squares, place them in a saucepan with a small quantity each of mace and ground ginger, sweet herbs, and chopped onion, pour over sufficient white wine to cover, stand the saucepan on the fire and cook for fifteen minutes. Remove the herbs, add a little chopped parsley, half of an anchovy cut up small, the juice of a lemon, one breakfast cupful of cream, and a thickening of yolk of egg and butter. Season the mixture well, stir it over the fire for a few minutes, turn the whole out onto a dish, and serve with slices of lemon for a garnish. Tripe, Lyonnese. Wash thoroughly one and one-half pounds of tripe, boil it until tender in water, cut it up into pieces about one and one-half inches long and one inch wide, sprinkle over them a seasoning of salt, pepper and flour, put them into a fryingpan with boil- ing lard, and fry for five or six minutes. Remove them and drain on a sieve. Put two or three onions, cut up into slices in a fryingpan with a small quantity of oil, butter and a clove of garlic, and cook them until they are well colored ; then add the tripe, sprinkle over a little cayenne, toss the pan over the fire until the onions are cooked, take out the garlic, add a small quantity of chopped parsley, take the pan off the fire, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, turn the whole out onto a dish, and serve. Tripe, Poulette Style. Put a large chopped onion into a saucepan with a little butter and fry to a good yellow color; add one pound of tripe cut into squares, season well with salt and pep- per and fry it until the moisture of the tripe is reduced, dredge over two tablespoon- fuls of flour and add gradually sufficient rich broth to moisten. Stir well until the liquor boils, then add a bunch of parsley, boil for two or three minutes, remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and simmer gently for twenty-five minutes, Remove the pieces of tripe, place them on a dish and keep warm. Reduce the liquor, thicken it with yolks of eggs, pour it over the tripe and serve. A small quantity of butter, chopped parsley, lemon juice, grated nutmeg, etc., may be mixed with the liquor. Stewed Tripe. Wash thoroughly one pound of tripe, boil it until tender and then drain it. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir over the fire until well mixed; then pour in by degrees one pint of milk and keep on 166 BEEF. stirring until boiling. Put the tripe in the sauce, season to taste with pepper and salt and boil it gently for fifteen minutes or so. Turn the tripe and sauce onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast, and serve. Beef Vinaigrette. Cut a slice of about three inches in thickness from a round of boiled fresh beef, put in a saucepan and pour over it a wineglassful of white wine and a little water, add ;i bay leaf, a small bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves and salt and pepper to taste. Place the saucepan over the fire and cook until the liquor is about half ab- sorbed, turning the meat frequently. Place on a dish when cold, and serve with a sauceboat of the liquor strained and a little vinegar mixed with it. Vol-au-Vent of Beef Tendons. Remove the nerves and skin from the beef tendons and place them in a basin with enough water to cover them and let them soak until quite white; then place in a saucepan of salted water and a little vinegar, and boil for ten minutes. Line a vol- au-vent case with good puff paste and bake in an oven; when done take out, and after it has become cold, turn it out. Put in the oven for a few minutes to warm and then put in the pieces of tendon and pour over sufficient bechamel sauce to cover them, and put a couple of dozen boiled button mushrooms on top of this; place the vol-au- vent in the oven, and serve very hot. Lamb. Ballotin of Lamb with Peas. Remove the bone from a shoulder of lamb weighing about three pounds, leaving the end bone for a handle; season with one-half tablespoonful of salt and the same quantity of pepper. Sew it up with string, fasten firmly and boil for about three minutes in the stockpot. After allowing it to cool, lard the top with a larding-needle as for a fricandeau and place it in a saucepan with a piece of pork skin, an onion and a carrot cut into pieces. Brown lightly for six or eight minutes, then moisten with one-half pint of Spanish sauce and one-half pint of broth, cook in the oven for three- quarters of an hour, remove it and strain the sauce over one pint of hot boiled green peas, then cook for two minutes longer. Place the garnishing on a hot dish, remove the strings from the ballotin, lay it on top of the garnishing, and serve. Blanquette of Lamb, Remove the meat from two shoulders of lamb, cut it into moderate-sized squares and steep them in water for one hour. Place the meat in a stewpan, cover it with a little water or broth and one tcacupful of white wine. When the liquid boils strain the broth through a sieve into a basin and allow it to remain for a few minutes to settle. Put one chopped onion into a stewpan with a little butter and fry till browned; then mix the meat with it and fry them together for a few minutes. Sprinkle in a little pepper, salt and flour and pour in by degrees enough of the broth to reach the toj) of the meat; add a few cloves and peppercorns, some trimmings of mushrooms and a few sprigs of parsley and a bay leaf. Place the stewpan over the fire and let the contents boil quickly for ten or twelve minutes in order to reduce the liquor to one-fourth; then move the stewpan to the side of the fire and finish cooking the meat. When done skim the fat off the sauce, stir in three eggs that have been beaten with some milk and continue stirring over the fire until thick, taking care that it does not boil; grate in a little nutmeg, remove the meat from the stewpan with a fork, arrange it on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, sprinkle a little parsley on the top. and serve. Braised Breast of Lamb. Remove the bones from a breast of lamb with a sharp-pointed knife, season the meat well with pepper and salt, then roll it up and tie it securely with twine. Chop fine one onion, a slice of carrot and a slice of turnip. Put them in a braising pan with a lump of butter and stir over a brisk fire for five minutes; then put in the lamb, 167 168 LAMB. sprinkling it well with flour. Place the lid on and stand the stewpan where the meat will cook slowly for another hour, basting it frequently. When ready remove the meat, cut off the string and place it on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the gravy, strain the latter over the meat, and serve while very hot with a sauceboatful of either tomato or bechamel sauce. Braised Breast of Lamb, Milanese Style. Trim a breast of lamb, and put it into a saucepan in which there is a layer of thin slices of bacon (fat); put some slices of lemon on the breast, then cover it with more slices of fat bacon. Pour in one-half pint of stock, and pack in an onion cut in quarters. Put the lid on the stewpan with a few live ashes on the top, and braise slowly by the side of the fire until the breast is done, glazing it when cooked. Place some dressed macaroni on a hot dish, lay the joints on it, pour over some rich brown gravy, and serve. Broiled Breast of Lamb. Heat a gridiron over a clear fire, grease it well with a little fat, lay the breast of lamb upon it, and when well done on one side turn it and let it cook on the other. Warm two ounces of butter, work in a little pepper and salt and spread it over the meat. Place the joint on a hot dish, and serve with mint sauce in a boat. Stewed Breast of Lamb. Cut a breast of lamb into pieces, season properly with pepper and salt, and stew until tender in enough gravy to cover the meat. Thicken the sauce, pour in one wine- glassful of sherry, and serve on a dish of stewed mushrooms. Brochettes of Lamb. Take a raw leg of lamb, remove the bone and pare off the skin, then cut it into several pieces of equal size. Put them in a bowl with two finely chopped shallots, one teaspoonful of chopped chives, and one tcaspoonful of parsley, and a crushed clove of garlic. Add the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoonful of salt and one tea- spoonful of pepper, also half a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Let them steep for two hours, turning at times, then take the pieces out, run skewers through the centers inter- larding them with pieces of salt pork, dip the brochettes in breadcrumbs and broil for tour minutes. Broiled Lamb Chops. Trim the required quantity of chops that have been cut from a loin of lamb, put them on a heated gridiron and broil them over the fire. When they are nicely browned on both sides, put a mound of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, lean the chops against it. and serve. LAMB. 169 Broiled Lamb Chops in Papers. Trim the chops neatly, remove the skin and fat, dip them in warm butter, and then strew parsley and chives over them. Wrap them in sheets of buttered paper, and broil over a clear fire. When cooked pour the chops on a dish, and serve with gravy. Fried Lamb Chops. Pare six lamb chops and split them through the center. Fill the inside with some very fine salpicon, season with salt and pepper, close together and dip in beaten eggs, then in fresh breadcrumbs; fry for four minutes on each side in two ounces of clarified butter, and serve with one gill of hot Montglas sauce, after arranging a curled paper at the end of each chop. Lamb Chops, Maintenon Style. Select six well trimmed and flattened lamb chops, season with a pinch of salt and a half a pinch of pepper, place them in a stewpan, with one ounce of butter, and fry on one side only for one minute. Cover the cooked side with a chicken forcemeat. Sprinkle over them a finely minced truffle, put them on a well-buttered baking dish, and place them in a slow oven for four minutes. Place a paper frill on the end of each chop, and serve with one-half pint of hot clear veloute-sauce poured on the dish, and the chops laid on that. Lamb Chops with Brown Sauce. Cut a few lamb chops about one-fourth of an inch thick, trim nicely, dip them in beaten egg, then roll them in a seasoning of finely minced parsley, a little salt and pepper, lemon peel, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Heat a large lump of butter in a deep fryingpan over the fire, then put in the chops, and frv until well browned. Put one tablespoonful of flour and a small lump of butter into a stewpan, stir over the fire, then pour in one-half pint of clear veal gravy, and stir until boiling; drain the chops, put them on a hot dish, stir in one wineglassful of red wine with the sauce, strain it over the chops, and serve. Lamb Chops with Champagne Sauce. Tare neatly and flatten half a dozen lamb chops, season with one pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper, fry slightly in a stewpan with one ounce of butter and for a space of one minute on each side, then allow them to cool. Cover the surfaces with chicken forcemeat, wrap them in a skin taken from the stomach of a pig, then dip in beaten egg and fresh bread crumbs; cook in a stewpan with four ounces of butter for four minutes on each side. Arrange a paper frill at the end of each chop, 1 7 o LAMB. and serve with one-half pint of hot champagne sauce on the dish and the chops dressed over. Lamb Chops with Perigueux Sauce. Pare neatly half a dozen chops, flatten, and season with one-half pinch of pepper and one pinch of salt. Make an incision on each chop, and garnish the inside with a truffle previously prepared by dipping in hot glaze, then dip the chops in beaten egg, roll them in fresh breadcrumbs, and put them in a stewpan with two ounces of but- ter, frying them for five minutes on either side. Pour one-half pint of Perigueux sauce on the di-sh, arrange the chops over it with curled paper on their ends, and serve. Lamb Croquettes. Chop fine three pounds of raw lamb, peel and mince three onions, mix them all well together and season with pepper and salt. Divide the mixture into small quantities and roll them into balls, place them in a saucepan of water and boil. Put the volks of four eggs in a saucepan with the strained juice of two lemons and one saltspoonful of salt, and beat well. Stir over a slow fire with a wooden spoon until it thickens, taking care to move it off the fire before the eggs have time to boil, or they will spoil by curdling; then mix in by degrees one teacupful of the liquor in which the meat balls were boiled, stir the sauce at the side of the fire for ten minutes, arrange the croquettes in a group in the center of a dish, pour the sauce round them, and serve while very hot. Curried Lamb. Cut a cooked leg of lamb into middling-sized dice, and remove all the skin and gristle. Fry a chopped onion in a stewpan with a little butter until browned, then put in two breakfast cupfuls of well washed and dried rice, stir a few minutes over the fire, moisten to twice its height with unskimmed broth, and boil the rice on a slow fire adding frequentlv more broth to prevent it from getting too drv. When nearly tender mix in two small tablespoonfuls of currv powder diluted with three table- spoonfuls of tomato sauce, and stir over the fire for two or three minutes, then take it off. put in the chopped meat, place the lid on the saucepan and stand it at the side of the fire to heat the lamb thoroughlv. Pour the gravy on a hot dish with fried bread, and serve. Broiled Lamb Cutlets. Cut some cutlets of a neck of lamb and trim them as for mutton cutlets, beat the volks of two eggs with a little warmed butter, dip in the cutlets, then in breadcrumbs, and then put them on a gridiron over a clear fire; when they are done on one side turn them, arrange on a dish, and serve with gravy. LAMB. 171 Lamb Cutlets, Duchess Style. Trim neatly some cutlets that have been, cut off the neck of a lamb, scraping the top of the bone until clean, place them in a fryingpan together with a lump of butter, and fry. When cooked drain the cutlets and leave them until cold. Put into a saucepan, two or three mushrooms a finely chopped onion, a sprig of parsley and a lump of butter; stir them over the fire until hot, then pour in one breakfast cupful of white sauce, the juice of a lemon, a liaison of three well beaten yolks of eggs and one tablespoonful of powdered sugar. Stir the mixture by the side of the fire until it is of the thickness of cream, then dip the cutlets into it, coating them well with the sauce and setting them one side to cool. Brush the cutlets over with beaten yolk of egg, roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry in butter until well browned. Put a puree of green peas in the center of a hot dish, forming the cutlets around it in an upright position and slightly overlapping one another, then serve with a sauceboatful of white sauce. Fried Lamb Cutlets. Trim the outer skin of two breasts of Jamb, place them in a saucepan, cover with veal stock, and boil slowly. Prepare a veal forcemeat, season highly with and spices, and bind it with a raw egg. When the breasts of lamb are tender bone them and spread the forcemeat over the inside, laying them one on top of the other. Place them between two dishes with a heavy weight on top and leave them for several hours. Take some small bones from the ribs, trim to the shape of cutlet bones and blanch them. Cut the cold breasts into pieces, forming them into the shape of cutlets. Beat two whites and three yolks of eggs together with two tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, the butter being mixed in a drop at a time; brush the cutlets over with a paste brush dipped in the beaten egg mixture, roll them in fine white breadcrumbs that have been seasoned witli salt, pepper and, if desired, a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Leave the cutlets for twenty or twenty-five minutes, then egg and breadcrumb them again, proceeding as before; leave again for half an hour, then give them a third coating of egg and bread crumbs. Place a large lump of butter or clarified fat in a large stewpan, place it over the fire until a blue smoke arises, then put In the cutlets and fry to a nice brown. When done drain the cutlets on a sheet of kitchen paper for a minute, stick one of the whitened bones in each and fasten a small paper frill round them. Pile some mashed potatoes in the center of a hot dish, lean the cutlets against them, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with dcmi-glaze sauce. Lamb Cutlets in Papers. Take the fat and skin from three cutlets, and dust with pepper and salt. Put three table-spoonfuls of butter into a fryingpan, and place it on the fire, when it has I 7 2 LAMB. melted sufficiently put in the cutlets, and fry them for a quarter of an hour; add one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, one table- spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, dust in one tablespoonful of flour and cook for another five minutes. Remove the cutlets and add four tablcspoonfuls each of glaze and water to the liquor in the pan, stir well until the glaze is melted, and then cool. Fold as many sheets of paper as there are cutlets to the size of note paper, and cut them so that when they open they will be in the shape of a heart. Place them in warm butter, and allow them to stand for a little time. When the sauce is cold spread it over the cutlets, and place them one at a time on the side of the papers, with the bones turned toward the point of the heart. When all are thus prepared range them on a baking-sheet and cook in the oven for ten minutes. Dress them on a dish in a circle, and fill up the hollow with fried potatoes. Lamb Cutlets, Jardiniere. Select a dozen or so of lamb cutlets, trim them to a like shape and size, dust with pepper and salt, and place them in the bottom of a flat stewpan; put a small lump of butter in with and fry over a clear fire. When done on one side turn over and cook the other. After the meat is done strain the butter off the cutlets, put in a little melted glaze, and turn them about over the fire for two cr three minutes. Mash some boiled potatoes, and form them in a border on a hot dish; arrange the cutlets in a circle on the border, fill the center with a garnish of new vegetables, and serve with a sauceboatful of freshly made gravy well thickened. Lamb Cutlets, Villeroy. Trim the desired number of lamb cutlets, place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry; when cooked, press them between two plates to cool. Trim the cutlets again, dip them in a little villeroy sauce, sprinkle over them some fine herbs, place them on a cold baking sheet, and let the sauce set; lay some breadcrumbs over the sauce. Put some lard or butter into a frvingpan, and when it is boiling put the cutlets in, and fry both sides equally until nicely browned. Place a folded napkin on a hot dish, drain the cutlets, put them on it, garnish witli fried parsley, and serve. Lamb Cutlets with Asparagus. Cut into one-half inch lengths the heads of a bundle of asparagus; also cut into lengths of the same size as much of the stalks as is eatable, and boil them separately in salt and water; when cooked drain, place them in separate frvingpans with a little butter, season to taste with pepper and salt, ami toss them about over the fire. Trim the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs and fry in butter to a pale golden brown. When cooked drain the cutlets on a sheet of paper before a clear fire for a LAMB. 173 second, and then form them in a circle on a hot dish, pile the asparagus in the center, arranging the heads on top, and serve. Lamb Cutlets with Spinach. Cut a neck of lamb into cutlets, trim them to a nice shape, brush over with warm butter and season with salt and pepper; put them in a double gridiron and broil in front of a clear fire. Pick the spinach and wash it in a great many waters, as it w ; ll be hard to clean without doing so; boil it, and when it is cooked drain it on a hair sieve. Put one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour into a saucepan and stir over the fire until well mixed; pass the spinach through the sieve into the butter, moisten with a small quantity of milk, and stir it over the fire until boiling. Pile the spinach in the center of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets around it, and serve. Kpigrammes of Lamb with Asparagus Tops. Braise a small piece of breast of lamb, and when it is cooked take it out of the pan and place it between two dishes with a weight on the top and leave until cold. Afterwards cut the lamb into equal-sized pieces, trim them to a cutlet shape and fix a bone in each like a cutlet. Trim an equal number of lambs cutlets and make them into equal pieces, and fry them. Season with salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon juice, dip in well-beaten egg and roll in breadcrumbs, giving a good coating. Place a piece of butter on the fixing pan, and when melted place it on the cutlets, and fry until they are a light golden brown on either side, draining well as they are cooked. Arrange the cutlets on a hot dish, put some boiled heads of asparagus in the center, garnish with parsley, and serve. Kpigrammes of Lamb with Macedoine. Tie two breasts of lamb together and boil them in a stock-pot for forty-five minutes. Drain well, then take out the bones, and place a heavy weight on it. When quite cold, cut each breast into three heart shaped pieces, dip them in oil or fat, add one tablespoonful of pepper, roll in breadcrumbs, and broil over a slow fire for four minutes each side. Take six broiled breaded lamb chops, prepare, and cook exactly the same, and serve with half pint of hot macedoine or any other garnishing that may be liked; arrange the breasts and chops on the garnishing, Fricassee of Lamb. Cut the breast of a lamb into square pieces, sprinkle salt and flour over, and brown in a little butter. Place them in a stewpan with a sliced onion and a little water, and simmer until the bones will slip out easily. Take the lamb out, remove the bones, strain the liquor, and pour off the fat. Boil the liquor over again, put in 1 74 LAMB. the meat with a little salt and pepper, and stew for a little while longer; then add one quart of peas, and simmer for fifteen minutes. When ready to serve turn the meat onto a hot dish. Hashed Lamb. Fry two chopped onions in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter, add one pint of cooked chopped potatoes, and one-half pound of cooked hashed lamb, season with one tcaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of salt, and one-half tcaspoonful of nutmeg. Moisten with one-half pint of broth, and cook for ten minutes. Put the hash on a hot dish, and arrange half a dozen poached eggs on top. Serve sprinkled over with chopped parsley. Roasted Haunch of Lamb. Trim the shank bone of a haunch of lamb, fold the loan underneath, fasten it with skewers, season and roast in a pan in a hot oven, basting often with butter. When it is nearly cooked sprinkle some stale breadcrumbs and a little salt over, baste with butter and let the joint brown. Put the haunch on a hot dish, tie a ruffle around the bone, make a rich gravy, and serve it with the meat, also some mint sauce, both being placed in sauceboats. Broiled Lambs' Kidneys, Maitre d'Hotel. Plunge the kidneys into boiling water for an instant, split down the middle with- out cutting them clear through, skin and run a fine skewer through each to keep them flat. Season well with pepper and salt, warm a little butter and brush over them. Lay them on a well-greased, hot gridiron, the cut side downwards ; when that side is done, turn them over and cook the other side. Remove the skewers, lay the kidneys, hollow side up, on a hot dish, put a little maitre d'hotel butter on each, and serve. Broiled Lambs' Kidneys with Colbert Sauce. Split open eight or nine kidneys, skin them, place them on a dish and moisten them well with sweet oil. Dust over with one tablespoonful of salt, one tcaspoonful of pepper and one-half tcaspoonful of nutmeg. Take eight silver skewers, run each skewer through the center of a kidney (which should be split partly open), roll them in breadcrumbs and broil them over a moderate fire for about five minutes on either side. Place them on a very hot dish on which has been previously poured one-half pint of hot Colbert sauce, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Deviled Lambs' Kidneys. Skin and pare a dozen kidneys, without separating the parts, and run the skewers through as for broiled lambs' kidneys with Colbert sauce. Broil them a little for one LAMB. J75 minute on either side, then stir together in a dish one teaspoonful of mustard with two tablespoonfuls of Parisian sauce, a little cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful of salt and a little mignonette pepper. Roll the kidneys well in this and then in bread- crumbs, and finish by broiling them once more for three or four minutes. Pour over a gill of maitre d'hotel butter, and serve. Fried Lambs' Kidneys with Bread Croutons. Skin and trim the fat off the kidneys, cut each one into halves lengthwise, place them in a fryingpan with one or two finely-chopped shallots and two ounces of but- ter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and fry them. When the shallots are nicely browned and the kidneys are cooked remove them from the fire and baste with a few tablespoonfuls of melted glaze. Fry in hot fat half a dozen croutons of bread, and when brown and crisp brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze; place the kidneys on a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, squeeze over them the juice of a lemon, garnish with croutons of bread, and serve. Stewed Lambs' Kidneys. Pare, trim and skim a dozen kidneys, cut them into slices and cook for five min- utes in a fryingpan with one ounce of clarified butter, one tablespoonful of salt and onr teaspoonful of pepper. Brown well and then add one-half pint of Spanish sauce and four mushrooms cut into pieces. Warm without boiling, add the juice of half a lemon and one teaspoonful of chopped parslev, and serve. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Sprinkle a leg of lamb with salt, place it in a bowl with enough soft water to cover, add a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice, and let the lamb steep for an hour. Then dry it, dredge with flour, wrap it in a piece of linen, put it in a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs and water to cover, and boil it for an hour and a half, more or less, according to the size of the joint. When cooked remove the cloth, place the lamb on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and thin slices of lemon, and serve witli a sauceboatfu) of caper sauce. Broiled Lambs' Liver. Cut the liver into rather thin slices, and allow them to macerate in oil and chopped parsley for half an hour. Drain the slices, sprinkle over salt and pepper, roll them in grated breadcrumbs, lay them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan to melt, and mix with it the juice of a lemon, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. When the slices of liver are cooked, lay them on a hot dish, pour the butter over, and serve. 176 LAMB. Fried Lambs' Liver. Wash thoroughly some lambs' liver, cut it into slices, and rub them well on both sides with pepper, salt and flour. Place a large lump of fat in a fryingpan and make it hot. Dip the fillets into beaten eggs, plunge them into the fat, and fry them. Drain the slices of liver, dust a little salt over, and put them on a hot dish on which has been laid a folded napkin, garnish with quarters of lemon, and serve. Minced Lamb with Poached Eggs. Take some cold roasted lamb, trim and chop it very fine, season with pepper, salt and a little finely chopped mint. Make some gravy very hot in a saucepan, thicken it with browned flour, stir in the seasoned meat, and let it get hot. Make some triangles of buttered toast, lay a poached egg on each, pour the mince into a flat dish, and garnish with the toast and poached eggs. Pilau of Lamb. Cut the meat of a leg of lamb into small pieces, and make a little broth with the bones. Cut half a pound of streaky bacon in squares and fry in a stewpan with one chopped onion ; put the pieces of lamb in with it, sprinkle a little salt over and fry over a brisk fire for ten minutes. Cover the lamb with the broth that has been pre- pared from the bones. Skin and chop two ripe tomatoes and after picking out the seeds, put them in with the lamb, adding two green peppers, cut up a bunch of fine herbs, a sprig or two of parsley and a pinch of saffron ; when the broth has boiled for five minutes throw in some rice, put the lid on the stewpan, move it to the side of the fire, and let the contents stew for twenty minutes or until the rice is quite tender. When ready to serve turn the pilau out onto a hot dish. Roasted Forequarter of Lamb. Cover a forequarter of lamb with slices of bacon, and wrap it up in a sheet of buttered paper. Roast in the oven, and when it is cooked enough, raise the shoulder from the neck with a knife, fill the cavity with butter, and serve on a hot dish. Roasted Hindquarter of Lamb. Select a hindquarter of lamb, trim the bone, fix the lamb in a roastingpan and roast it in a hot oven, basting often with butter; when nearly dune sprinkle with breadcrumbs, baste again to brown, and sprinkle salt over. When the lamb is cooked put it on a hot dish, surround with a rich gravy, and serve wit Ji mint sauce. LAMB. 177 Roasted Hindquarter of Lamb with Celery. Truss the joint, range it in a bakingpan and roast it in a hot oven. Clean and trim three fresh heads of celery, cutting off the tops and the outside leaves, put them for ten minutes in boiling water, then refresh them with cold water, and tie together in bundles. Place them in a saucepan with a small quantity of sliced carrots, an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, three-quarters of a pint of chicken broth, half a pint of water and one teacupful of clarified butter ; lay a sheet of paper over the whole, put the lid on the saucepan, and keep the contents cooking gently by tin: side of the fire. When the lamb is cooked, remove and place it on a hot dish, put the celery around, and serve with a sauceboat of half glaze. Roasted Saddle of Lamb. The saddle of lamb is simply the two loins cut off before the carcass is split open down the back ; it is best when roasted before an open fire, but it may be cooked in a very hot oven. If medium size it will cook in an hour and a half, but if huge it will require two hours. It should first be exposed to intense heat until browned, then seasoned with salt and pepper, and every fifteen minutes should be basted with the drippings, which fall from it ; about a half hour before the loin is done make a sauce for it as follows : Peel two large cucumbers, cut them in slices, and place them in salted cold water. Peel and slice one medium-sized onion, place it in a saucepan with the cucumbers, with enough gravy to cover, and let them stew for fifteen minutes; season highly with salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of lemon- juice or vinegar. When the lamb is cooked dish it on a hot dish, garnish with cucumbers, and serve the sauce in a gravy-boat with it. Roasted Saddle and Leg of Lamb. Wash, salt and Hour the meat and put it in a bakingpan in a hot oven to roast, basting often until done. Place it on a hot dish and serve it with mint sauce. Braised Shoulder of Lamb. Remove the bone from a shoulder of lamb and lard it with lightlv-scasoncd strips of bacon fat in the thick part of the shoulder ; roll the joint to a good shape. tie it round, put it into a braisingpan with a lump of butter and braise gently over a moderate fire till browned all over. Put in about eight small onions, a bundle of chopped parsley and one quart of broth, place the saucepan by the side of the fire and allow the contents to simmer until the onions are tender. Put the meat onto a hot dish, cut off the string and garnish with the onions. Boil the cooking liquor until it is reduced to a thick gravy, then pour it over the lamb, and serve. i-S LAMB. Braised Shoulder of Lamb, African Style. Season a shoulder of lamb with one pinch each of salt and pepper and tie it up. Put it in a saucepan with one sliced onion and carrot and brown for six minutes. Moisten with one pint of broth and Spanish sauce and cook for forty-five minutes. Skim all the fat from the gravy, remove the meat to a hot dish and untie it. Deco- rate the dish with three stuffed egg-plants and half a pint of cooked okra gumbos. Pour the gravy over the shoulder of lamb, and serve. Braised Shoulder of Lamb, Flemish Style. The same as for braised shoulder of lamb, African style, serving for garnishing half a Dint of cooked carrots, turnips and red cabbage arranged around the dish. Braised Shoulder of Lamb, Rouennese Style. Braise a shoulder of lamb, cut three medium-sized turnips the shape of a large clove of garlic, put them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter and one teaspoonful of powdered loaf-sugar on top. Put them in the oven and leave until they become thor- oughly brown, moving the pan often to prevent burning. Put the gravy from the meat over the turnips, dish up the shoulder, and serve. Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Mint Sauce. Wash a shoulder of lamb, dredge both sides with salt and flour, fix it on a ba- kingpan, with a little hot water dripping and salt, and then roast in a brick oven, bast- ing occasionally until done. Place it on a hot dish, and serve with mint sauce. Lamb Stewed with Tomatoes. Divide a saddle of lamb into moderate-sized quarters, remove part of the bones, and put the meat into a flat stewpan with a clove of unpceled garlic, one onion and a lump of butter; season well and toss over the fire until nicely browned. Cut four to- matoes in halves, take out the seeds and cut them into quarters. Place a little oil in a fryingpan, when hot put the tomatoes in and fry over a sharp fire until the moisture is reduced, then turn them in with the lamb, stir over the fire for ten minutes, take tin- onion and garlic out, place the lamb and tomatoes on a hot dish, and serve. Baked Lambs' Sweetbreads. Clean the sweetbreads, washing them in plenty of water, then steep them in wa- ter for an hour or more. Drain the sweetbreads ami blanch them in boiling water un- til firm, then boil them slowly for fifteen to twenty minutes; drain and wipe the sweet- breads on a cloth; roll them in the beaten yolks <>l eggs, and then put in plenty of LAMB. 179 grated breadcrumbs, and place them in a quick oven until nicely browned. Boil one wineglassful of sherry wine with one-half pint of gravy, arrange the sweetbreads in a group on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve at once. Fricassee of Lambs' Sweetbreads. Blanch three lambs' sweetbreads, parboil them in broth or stock, and cut into slices. Roll them well in flour and if the slices arc too thick cut them in halves. Put them into a fryingpan with butter and a few bearded oysters and fry to a yellow color. Then drain off the butter, pour in two breakfast cupfuls of rich gravy, add a few asparagus points, two or three finely chopped chjves or shallots, season with pep- per, salt and grated nutmeg. Pour in one wineglassful of white wine, and simmer for ten minutes or so. Beat the yolks of three eggs in a basin, add a little of the broth and then stir it in with the remainder, replace the pan at the side of the fire and stir, without boiling, until the gravy is moderately thick. Serve on a hot dish with slices of lemon lor a garnish. Lambs' Sweetbreads in Cases. Blanch, pare and clean half a dozx-n lambs' sweetbreads. Lav them aside to cool, then lard them with either fresh fat pork or truffles. Place them in a well buttered stewpan, adding one gill of Madeira wine and one gill of chicken broth. Cover with a buttered paper, and let them cook to a golden color in the oven for ten min- utes, then place them on a dish. Put one-half gill of cooked fine herbs, and one gill oi reduced Spanish sauce into the pan, allowing it to cook for five minutes. Take six small buttered paper cases, pour a little of the gravy at the bottom of each, fill in with sweetbreads, and place them on a bakingdish; keep them in an open oven for five minutes, then serve on a folded napkin. Lambs' Sweetbreads in Shells. Boil sixteen lambs' sweetbreads, using care not to overdo them; when cold cut them into dice, and mix with them one-third of their quantity of cooked mushrooms, keeping them covered. Pour a little bechamel sauce into a saucepan allow it to reduce, gradually mixing it with the cooking stock of the lambs' sweetbreads, so as to get half a brown sauce. When it thickens and coats the spoon, put the mushrooms and sweetbreads in with it and remove it from the fire at once. Secure some large table-shells, fill them with the mixture, smoothing it on the top, sprinkle grated breadcrumb over, pour one tablespoonful of warmed butter into each, and bake until browned in a quick oven. Arrange the shells on a fancy paper over a dish, and serve, Stewed Lambs' Sweetbreads. Blanch the sweetbreads and steep them in cold water for half an hour, then place them in a stewpan with some button onions, boiled asparagus tops, and a small piece 180 LAMB. of mace ; season with salt and pepper to taste. Beat the yolks of two eggs, together with one-half teacupful of cream and one tablcspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. Knead one ounce of flour, put it in with the sweetbreads, and let them simmer at the side of the fire for half an hour. Stir in the eggs, cream and parsley with the sweet- breads, grate in a small quantity of nutmeg, and stir the sauce at the side of the fire for a few minutes, but do not let it boil again or the eggs will curdle. When ready place the sweetbreads on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Timbale of Lambs' Sweetbreads. Take a timbale mould, line it with short paste, having previously buttered it, and put a layer of forcemeat mixed with chives, and a little finely-chopped lean raw ham inside. Blanch a score of lambs' sweetbreads, and fry them over a brisk fire in bacon fat until well browned ; sprinkle over salt and pepper, take them off the fire, and let them cool. Put them in layers in the timbale mould, alternating each layer with the forcemeat. Put a layer of forcemeat on the top, cover the mould with a round of paste, fixing it carefully to the sides, place it in a moderate oven, and bake for about one hour. When cooked turn the timbale out of the mould, make a hole in the top, pour in a little thickened gravy, put back the round that has been removed, garnish with mushrooms and parsley, and serve at once. Lambs' Sweetbreads with Villeroy Sauce. Select the desired quantity of sweetbreads, blanch and place them in a stewpan, adding broth to half their height, boil till tender and the gravy is reduced. Put the sweetbreads between two plates, and leave till cold. Cut each sweetbread in two, dip them in villeroy sauce, and place them on a baking sheet. When the sauce has cooled on them, take them from the baking sheet with the aid of a knife, roll them in breadcrumbs again, and fry in boiling fat; when nicely browned all over, drain, arrange them on a hot dish, and serve. Boiled Lambs' Tongues. Put half a dozen or so of lambs' tongues into a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them, and add the juice of half a lemon. Set the saucepan on the fire and boil the tongues until tender, place them on a dish when drained, and serve either hot or cold; if the latter, tartar sauce should accompany them. Glazed Lambs' Tongues. Put two or three glazed lambs' tongues of a good pink color into a saucepan of water and boil for two hours, take them out, skin, and cut them lengthwise into halves. Place them in a pan with a little meat glaze over, cover well, and brown in LAMB. 181 the oven. Put them on a dish and serve, with spinach and boiled artichokes for a garnish. Pickled Lambs' Tongues. Place six or eight lambs' tongues in a saucepan with enough salted water to cover, add the juice of half a lemon, and boil until they are tender, which should take about two hours. Remove them, place them in a jar, pour sufficient hot spiced vinegar to cover, and allow them to remain for several days, when they will be ready for use. Stewed Lambs' Tongues. Place six lambs' tongues in a saucepan of water and boil for an hour and a half; take them out, plunge into cold water, take out again and skin. Place a little more than three tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, with an onion cut in slices, two slices of carrot and three of turnip, and cook gently for a quarter of an hour. Sprinkle in three tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well until it is brown, pour in a quart of stock, boil it up, put in the tongue, and sprinkle over a tablespoonful of salt and a little pepper, and add a bunch of sweet herbs. Place the saucepan at the side of the fire, and let it simmer for two hours. When they are done, put the tongues in the center of the dish, garnish with a vegetable, strain the gravy over, and serve. Mutton. Sheep's Btains, Poulette. Cleanse the brains bv placing them in boiling water, wash them well in cold water and let them drain. Prepare in a stewpan a quantity of sauce with a little stock thickened with the white of an egg, a little butter, cream and flour, also two or three small onions finely minced, boiled and mashed, a few small mushrooms, a squeeze of lemon juice and pepper and salt to taste. Pour one teaspoonful of lemon juice over each brain, sprinkle a little marjoram and sage over them, then put the brains into the sauce, and allow them to simmer gently for twenty minutes. Remove them ■when done, and place them on a dish. Boil up the sauce, pour it over, and serve. Sheep' s Brains with Remoulade Sauce. Steep four or five sheep's brains in cold water, remove the skin, and place them in fresh cold water for an hour. Put some vegetables cut in pieces into a saucepan of cold water for an hour, and add a sprig of parsley, one wineglassful of Madeira or white wine and a little salt. Boil for a few minutes, then put in the brains, and boil again for ten minutes ; take out the brains, drain them, put them on a dish, and mask with hot remoulade sauce. Baked Breast of Mutton. Sew up a breast of mutton in a very thin cloth, put it into a stewpan, pour over sufficient water to nearly cover it, and let it stew very slowly, allowing ten minutes to each pound, counting from the time the water begins to simmer. Remove it from the saucepan, take off the cloth, put it in a baking-dish, rub it over with warm drip- ping or butter, sprinkle on some flour, and bake for half an hour, basting often witli its own broth. Five minutes before removing it from the oven, strew fine dry bread- crumbs thickly over it, add small pieces of butter here and there, and let it brown. Put it on a hot dish, garnish with slices of beet root, and serve. Braised Breast of Mutton. Partly boil it the day before needed so as to more easily free it of its superfluous fat, cut it into pieces, put them into a saucepan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lav over them three onions cut in slices. Place the pan over a slow fire, and let the meat [8a MUTTON. 183 cook slowly for about three hours, when it should be done ; its own juices and fat will be quite sufficient moisture. Place the meat on a dish, and serve. Boiled Breast of Mutton with Caper Sauce. Cut off the fat from a breast of mutton, and bone the joint. Take three table- spoonfuls of sweet herbs and a couple of sprigs of parsley, chop fine, mix them with four tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, season with salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of this mixture over the boned meat, and tie around with string. Put it in a saucepan of water and boil very slowly over a moderate fire for two hours or until the meat is done. Put it on a dish, remove the string, pour over a little caper sauce and serve with more of the sauce in a sauceboat. Stewed Breast of Mutton. Bone and score a breast of mutton, season it well with cayenne, black pepper and salt, place in a saucepan with a good supply of gravy that has had the fat skimmed off; boil until tender and place on a dish. Slice a few gherkins and add them with one dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup to the gravy ; boil up again and pour the gravy over when ready. Braised Mutton Chops. Cut the chops off a rack of mutton without flattening them, remove a part ot the flat bone at the end, also a part of their fat. Put them in a stewpan with tin pieces cut off them, add three sliced onions, a bunch of parsley and a small quantity of carrots; season witli spice and salt, add four or five tablespoonfuls of broth to braise them. When they are well done remove and place on a strainer to drain and cool. Pass the liquor through a fine sieve and reduce it to a glaze, place the chops in this and disli in a circle, with the onion sauce poured in the center. Mutton Chops Breaded and Sauted. Flatten eight thick mutton chops, pare nicely and season with one tablespoonful of salt and one tcaspoonful of pepper. Dip them in beaten egg and roll in sifted breadcrumbs, place in a sautepan with an ounce of clarified butter. Cook for four minutes on each side, and serve with one-half pint of any sauce or garnishing required. Broiled Mutton Chops. Cut the chops from the loin or from the rack and remove some of the fat if necessary. Sprinkle slightly with pepper, put them on a gridiron over a good clear fire, turning two or three times, and cook evenly. When done put them on a hot 1 84 MUTTON. dish, sprinkle lightly with salt, put a small lump of butter on each and serve very hot. Garnish with sliced okras and stuffed egg plants. Broiled Mutton Chops, Brittany Style. Pare six mutton chops, season with one tablespoonful of salt and pepper and pour a few drops of oil over each. Broil four minutes on each side, place on a dish and serve with one-half pint of puree of white beans mixed with two tablespoonfuls of hot meat glaze. Broiled Mutton Chops, Provincial Style. Flatten and pare nicely six mutton chops and season them with a little salt and pepper ; oil slightly with sweet oil and then cither boil or cook them in a stewpan tor two minutes, on one side only, and lay them aside to get cold. Spread over them some provincial garnishing to about one-fourth inch in thickness and sprinkle with breadcrumbs mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese. Place the chops carefullv in a well-buttered pan, pour over them a little clarified butter and place in a very hot oven for five minutes or until of a good color. Serve with one-half pint of hot veloute sauce in a sauceboat. Broiled Mutton Chops; Soyer. Take five pounds of saddle of mutton, cut and saw it crosswise into six pieces, flatten, pare, and trim them, season with one tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Broil them for six minutes on each side, then place them on a hot dish, and serve with a garnishing of a pint of fried potatoes placed around the dish. Fried Mutton Chops. Prepare the same as for broiled mutton chops, put them in a stewpan and cook ; when done the hot fat must be poured away and a few tablespoonfuls of good stock, or water slightly warmed, and one tablespoonful of catsup or other flavoring added. Boil this stock up after removing the chops, and either pour it over them or serve separatelv. Fried Mutton Chops, Soubise Sauce. Peel two large Spanish onions, two carrots and two small turnips, and cut the carrots and turnips into small balls with a vegetable cutter. Boil them separately in salted water until tender. Trim off the fat from eight mutton chops, dip them in well-beaten c^ii; and then in breadcrumbs that have been seasoned with salt and pepper; put a lump of clarified fat in a frvingpan. place it over the fire till blue smoke arises, put in the chops and fry them brown on both sides. Drain the boiled vegetables, chop the onions, put them in a saucepan, dredge them with flour and a little salt and pepper, pour in gradually one breakfast cupful of milk, stir it over the MUTTON. 185 fire until it boils and thickens, then add two ounces of butter. Drain the cutlets and arrange in a circle on a hot dish, put the carrots and turnips in the center, pour the onion sauce round, and serve while very hot. Mutton Chops, Maintenon Style. Cut off some mutton chops of equal thickness, and butter them well. Chop some parsley, sweet herbs, and shallots very fine, mix well together and cover the chops with this. Put the chops in a pan and fry until three parts done, take them out, brush over with egg, sprinkle over breadcrumbs, and some more herbs if there is not sufficient adhering to them. Wrap each chop in buttered or oiled paper, put them in a pan and broil until quite done. Whole capers, with a little of their vinegar seasoned with cayenne, may be served with them, or some of the liquor from the chops, skimmed, and an equal quantity of veal gravy added and made hot, and then seasoned with a little lemon juice or vinegar, may be served in a sauceboat. Mutton Cromeskies. Trim off the skin and fat from some cold mutton and mince the lean finely; place one ounce of butter in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of flour, stir over the fire until well mixed, then pour in gradually a good one-half breakfast cupful of nicely flavored stock. Stir it until boiling, then put in the mince with a moderate quantity each of chopped thyme and parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle on a little grated nutmeg. Let it heat slowly at the side of the fire, then stir in the beaten volk of an egg. Cut some slices of mutton fat about two and one-half inches long and two inches wide, place a small bit of the mince on each and roll them up tightly, tying them round with fine twine. In the course of an hour's time dip each of the cromeskies in good frying batter, place them in a stewpan with plenty of boiling fat and fry until lightly browned. Drain the cromeskies as free from fat as possible, pile them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, garnish with a border of fried parsley, and serve. Curried Mutton. Chop a large onion and fry it in a pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Mix one tablespoonful each of curry powder and flour in a basin, add a teaspoonful of salt, and when thoroughly mixed add to the onion in the pan and pour in gradually a pint of water or broth. Chop two pounds of lean mutton into small pieces, fry in a little butter until they are a light brown, add to the curry and simmer till tender. Place the meat on a dish with a border of rice around it, and serve hot. Curried Mutton Forcemeat Balls. Place two pounds of mutton cut from the leg into a mortar and pound it to a pulp, then mix in a tablespoonful each of chopped sweet herbs, salt and pepper, two 1 86 MUTTON. tablespoonfuls of fine breadcrumbs, a well beaten egg and sufficient gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the mutton to form the whole into a mass. Shape it into balls about the size of a large walnut and roll them well in breadcrumbs. Put four ounces of fat into a fryingpan, make it hot, add one tablespoonful of ground onions, one-fourth tablespoonful each of ground turmeric and chillies, one-half tea- spoonful each of ground ginger and peppercorns and one-fourth teaspoonful of ground garlic. Fry these until they color, sprinkling over about one tablespoonful of water Put in the forcemeat balls, salt to taste and fry until they are brown; pour in one breakfast cupful of mutton broth, cover the pan and simmer over a slow fire for about two hours. Turn the curry on a dish, and serve with a border of boiled rice. Braised Mutton Cutlets. Take about three pounds of cutlets, trim and put them into a pan to braise. When done, remove, place them on a board with a weight on top to keep them in shape while they are getting cold. Trim them again, mask on one side with six ounces of quenelle forcemeat, and then dip them into a mixture of finely-minced tongues and truffles. Place them in a saucepan with three gills of brown sauce, cover with buttered paper and cook very slowly for fifteen minutes. Place a border of mashed potatoes on a dish, lay the cutlets on it, garnish the center with strips of tongue and gherkin mixed with the white of an egg, pour the sauce around, and serve. Broiled Mutton Cutlets. Season some cutlets, first dip them into melted butter, then roll them in bread- crumbs. Broil them ovier the fire for about eight minutes, and place them on a dish around a heap of potato balls piled up in the center. Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Carrots, Maitre d'Hotel. Select some rather thick cutlets from a rack of mutton, trim to a nice shape, removing nearly all the fat. Peel some new carrots and cut them into halves, unless they are very small; boil them in salted water until tender, drain and put them into a stewpan with some finely-minced parsley and a large piece of butter ; sprinkle lightly with pepper, and a small quantity of powdered sugar, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon ; toss them over the fire until nicely glazed, then move to one side and keep them warm. Broil the cutlets over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side. When the cutlets are finished dredge them over with salt, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, each cutlet overlapping the other, place the carrots in the center, and serve. Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Maccdoine of Vegetables. Take twelve cutlets of equal size, trim off some of the fat. sprinkle them slightly with salt and pepper and dip them into warm butter. Broil them over a moderate MUTTON. 187 fire, turning frequently, and when they are done put some paper frills on the bones; prepare a macedoine of vegetables of different kinds and shades, thicken with bechamel sauce and reduce with a little glaze, pile it in the center of a large dish and arrange the cutlets around. Serve with a boatful of half-glaze separately. Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Mushroom Sauce. Select the cutlets from the best end of a neck of mutton, the rack, saw the bones off short, trim them in a nice shape, remove the gristle and fat, and beat them flat with a cutlet bat. Take some finelv chopped parsley, thyme and marjoram, add some grated breadcrumbs, mix with the beaten yolk of an egg and season with salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Cover the cutlets with the mixture and wrap each one separatclv in a sheet of buttered paper, trim off the stalks from one-half pint of mushrooms, wash and drain them, place in a dish with one-half pint of nicelv flavored gravy and boil until tender; put one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour into a saucepan, stir it over the fire until brown, then strain in the gravy from the mushrooms, stirring till it boils. Broil the cutlets on a gridiron over a clear fire, turning when done on one side. When done remove the paper and arrange the cut- lets in a circle on a hot dish, put the mushrooms in the center, pour the sauce around them, and serve. Broiled Mutton Cutlets with String Beans. Take the best end of a neck of mutton and cut it into slices one-third of an inch thick; cut off most of the fat, trim to a nice shape and beat lightly with a cutlet bat, string a sufficient quantity of string beans, put them whole into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, salt and boil until tender. When done drain off the water, put in a large piece of butter, a moderate quantitv of finelv minced parslev, the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, and let them remain at the side of the fire until the cutlets are ready. Broil the cutlets on a gridiron over a clear brisk fire, turning them when done on one side. Pile the beans on the center of a hot dish and arrange the cutlets around them. Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. Trim the cutlets to a nice shape and roll them in butter that has been slightly warmed, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper on both sides, place them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side. When broiled ar- range them in a circle on a hot dish, pour some thick tomato sauce in the center, and serve. Mutton Cutlets, Financiere Style. Trim some cutlets and lard them with strips of bacon. Line a stewpan with the trimmings of bacon and a few slices of vegetables, put in the cutlets together with a i88 MUTTON. bunch of sweet herbs, cover them with two or three slices of bacon and moisten with a small quantity of stock. Stand them over a moderate fire, put hot ashes on the lid of the stewpan and braise them slowly. Put two ounces of chopped raw ham into a saucepan with some trimmings of truffles and mushrooms, a (cw peppercorns and a bunch of sweet herbs. Pour in one-half pint of white wine and one-half pint of stock and reduce by boiling to half its original quantity. Stir one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan over the fire until browned and then mix in by degrees one teacupful of stock and stir it until boiling and thickened. Strain the reduced liquor through a fine hair sieve, mix with it the thickened stock and boil up again. When cooked, drain the cutlets and arrange on a hot dish. Pour the sauce over, and serve while very hot. Fried Mutton Cutlets, Soubise Style. Saw off the upper rib-bone from a rack of mutton, leaving the cutlet bones about three inches long. Saw off the spine bone, cut off the cutlets, trim them and with a knife remove the meat from the end of the bone by scraping it, leaving about one- half inch of bone showing. Place the cutlets in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper, put in one ounce of butter and fry to a good brown color on each side. Place the cutlets in a circle on a dish, pour some Soubise sauce in the center, and serve. Mutton Cutlets, Indian Style. Procure the chops cut from the rack of mutton, trim off most of the fat, scrape the bones as clean as possible, and sprinkle over both sides a little salt and pepper. Mash smoothly some cold boiled potatoes, moisten them very slightly with milk, place a layer of them over both sides of the cutlet, smoothing them carefully with the flat part of the blade of a knife, completely covering the meat, and brush over with a paste-brush dipped in the beaten yolk of an c^. Put a fair-sized lump of butter into a stewpan on the fire, and when blue smoke rises put in the cutlets and fry them till delicately browned on both sides. Drain them as they are cooked on a sheet of paper, arrange them in a circle leaning against a fried bread crouton on a hot dish over which has been laid a folded napkin, put a group of fried parsley in the center, and serve. Mutton Cutlets, Jardiniere. Peel three or four young turnips and carrots, ami cut them into small balls with a vegetable cutter; boil these as well as a few button mushrooms, French beans and green peas separately in stock. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with one- good tablespoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until browned, then pour in grad- ually one pint of stock and continue stirring until boiling. Drain the vegetables when three parts cooked, put them into the thickened stock, and simmer gently until quite tender. Roil a firm white head ot cauliflower in clear water, with a small lump MUTTON. 189 of salt in it, trim the cutlets neatly, beat them slightly with a cutlet bat, and season with salt and pepper. Put two ounces of butter into a frvingpan on the fire, and when hot lay on the cutlets and fry them until nicely browned, turning when done on one side. When cooked, drain the cutlets and place them in a circle on a hot dish, place the cauliflower in the center, garnish around with the vegetables, and serve. Mutton Cutlets, Maitre d'Hotel. Prepare the cutlets from a rack of mutton by trimming them neatly, cutting the bones off fairly short and removing most of the fat ; then beat them with a cutlet bat, season on both sides with salt and pepper, and keep them in a cool place for an hour or two. Work together with the blade of a knife, one-half tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one and one-half ounces of butter and a squeeze of lemon juice. Melt a lump of butter in a frvingpan, put in the cutlets and fry them until well browned on both sides. When cooked, place the cutlets on a hot dish, put small pieces of the parsley butter over each, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very hot. Mutton Cutlets, Marshal Style. Chop three ounces of raw veal fine and pound it in a mortar together with one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley; add to it half a teaspoonful of pepper and salt and one saltspoonful of nutmeg, mix, and then stir in one tablespoonful of cream. Select eight mutton cutlets, trim them neatly leaving on a portion of the fat; beat two eggs, dip them in, and roll them in a mixture of three tablespoonfuls of bread- crumbs and rather more than one-half saltspoonful each of salt and pepper. Tut some clarified fat in a frvingpan, and when quite hot fry the cutlets in it for eight minutes, turning them once. When tried remove them from the pan, divide the veal mixture in the mortar into eight equal quantities, and spread one on each cutlet; sprinkle some mushrooms chopped fine over the veal mixture, and bake in a fairly hot oven for ten minutes. Serve on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley. Mutton Cutlets, Rachel Style. Chop three or four slices of fat bacon, fry them for two or three minutes, then put into the pan one-half pound of chopped calf's liver and fry until the liver is cooked. Season to taste, pound all to a smooth paste in a mortar, then pass it through a fine wire sieve. Trim neatly some mutton cutlets that have been cut off the rack, and fry them. When cooked drain the cutlets as free from fat as possible, place them between two plates with a weight on the top, and leave them until cold. When ready trim the cutlets again, and spread a layer of the pounded mixture on one side of each of them. Wrap them in a piece of caul, and put them in the oven until hot. Brush them over with a paste brush dipped in melted glaze, arrange in a 9° MUTTON. circle on a hot dish with a border of mashed potatoes round them, and serve very hot, with a sauceboat of half glaze. Mutton Cutlets, Venetian Style. Select the cutlets from a rack of mutton, trim them neatly, scraping clean about one inch of the top of each bone, and braise them. When cooked place them between two plates till cold; prepare a sufficient quantity of quenelle forcemeat to spread over one side of each cutlet, and mix with it a small quantitv of chopped truffles and tongue. Trim the cutlets again, lay in a stewpan, and spread the force- meat over them. Pour about one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of brown sauce around, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and cook slowlv over a slow fire for fifteen minutes. Cut some cooked tongue and gherkins into strips, arrange the cutlets in a circle around the dish, put the strips of tongue and gherkin in the center, pour the sauce around, and serve. Deviled Mutton. Cut some cold mutton into thick slices trimming off most of the fat, gash it across in several places with a sharp knife; mix a coffeespoonful of cayenne pepper with one tablespoonful of black pepper and rub the mixture well over the slices of mutton; lav them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning when done on one side. Put one-half teacupful of roast-meat gravy into a small saucepan with an equal quantitv of sherry wine, one-half tablespoonful each of Worcestershire and anchovv sauce, or the strained juice of half a lemon and a small quantitv of finely-shredded lemon peel. Place the sauce over the fire until it boils, arrange the pieces of broiled meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with fried parslev, and serve. It will be found an improvement if the gravy can be slightly flavored with onion. Fried Fillets of Mutton. Cut two pounds of cutlets from the middle of a loin of mutton, remove the fat and skin and cut into slices about one-half inch thick; flatten them with a cutlet bat and dip them into beaten cv;^, and then into sifted breadcrumbs. Sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt and let them remain for about one hour. Put some butter in a fryingpan, and when it is hot put in the fillets and fry on both sides until they are quite done and of a nice brown color. Place them on a dish, garnish with asparagus, seakale or cauliflower, and serve. . Fillets of Mutton, Minute Style. Put some good strong stock into a saucepan, reduce it quickly to a glaze, add a ij fat bacon and as many fillets of mutton as required. Cover over with a piece ( well-buttered paper and simmer gently over a slow the for ten or twelve minutes. MUTTON. 191 when they will be done and well glazed, but care must be taken to prevent the bacon from burning. Place the meat on a dish, add a little stock to the liquor in the pan to heat, pour it over the fillets, and serve hot. Roasted Fillet of Mutton. Cut off the chump end of a loin of mutton, season with salt and pepper, cover with paper, and put it in front of a clear fire to roast, let it remain for two hours, taking care that it does not brown in the slightest, and glaze it, put some well drained boiled string beans, in the gravy, warm them up, turn them out on a dish, place the meat on the top, and serve. Roasted Fore Quarter of Mutton. Select a young fore quarter of mutton, wrap it up in sheets of well buttered paper, and put it on the spit in front of a clear fire to roast; when done place it on a dish over a puree of white beans, and serve very hot. Fricasseed Mutton. Cut two pounds of the breast of mutton into large squares, sprinkle over with flour and salt, put them into a fryingpan, with a little fat or butter, and fry until brown. Place them in a saucepan, add an onion cut in slices, cover with water, and cook slowly until the bones can be removed easily. Strain the liquor and skim off the fat, put it back in the saucepan, and when it boils, put in the boned meat, and season with salt and pepper to taste, add one pint of green peas, cook slowly for fifteen min- utes or long enough to cook the peas, turn on a dish, and serve. Macaroni cut in half-inch pieces, or the tops of asparagus may be used instead of the peas. Fricasseed Mutton with Egg-Plant. Cut the required quantity of mutton into small pieces, place in a stewpan, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper; shake the pan over the fire until it makes a slight hissing noise; add one-fourth pound of butter and fry until the meat is nicely browned. Trim and slice four egg-plants, rub them with salt and leave them for a short time to extract the bitter taste; take the pieces of meat out of the fryingpan, keep them hot, drain the egg-plant and fry it in the remaining fat till well browned. Place the pieces of meat on a hot dish, put the fried slices of egg-plant in a circle around, and serve while very hot. Haggis. Clean a sheep's paunch or stomach, washing it thoroughly in several waters. Soak it in salted water and let it remain for several hours. Turn it inside out and scald it in a basin of boiling water. Scrape it well, taking care not to cut it or make i 9 2 MUTTON. any thin slices in it, as they might burst in cooking, and place it in cold water until wanted for use. Clean a sheep's pluck, and let the blood ooze out of the liver and heart by pricking them all over with a large needle. Put the liver and lights into a saucepan of water, and boil for fifteen minutes, change the water and boil for fifty minutes longer, add the balance of the pluck, and boil for another half-hour, making about an hour and a half in all. Remove an)' part of the skin that may be discolored, take out the liver, cut it in halves, grate one-half of it, and mince the other half with the remainder of the pluck. Mince one pound of beef suet and two onions and mix them in with one tablespoonful of salt, one breakfast cupful of well dried oatmeal, one-half tablespoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and some cayenne, also a little lemon juice and one breakfast cupful of gravy. When they are thoroughly incorporatcd put the mixture into the paunch, sew it up, leave room for swelling in cooking, plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water, boil up, place it at the side of the fire and let it simmer gently for about three hours, pricking it a little when first cooking to let the air escape and thus preventing its bursting. As soon as it is taken out of the saucepan it must be placed on a dish and served. Sufficient gravy will be found inside as soon as it is cut without adding any more to it. A little beef may also be used in the mixture, though it is not considered an improvement. If a lamb's paunch is used, as is sometimes the case, great care must be taken to sec that all the thin places are well sewed up. A call's paunch may also be used, but the sheep's is best Imitation Haggis. (i). Mix mashed potatoes with an equal quantity of cold cooked beef, cut up small, place this in a baking dish with a little butter on the top, sprinkle over pepper and salt and bake in a brisk oven until done. (2). Mince any beef or mutton, being sure to have plenty of fat, and then mix with it half the quantity of coarse oatmeal well browned before a clear fire; add a few minced onions and a small quantity of pepper and salt, put the mixture into a pie dish, place it in the oven, bake half an hour, and serve. Mutton Haricot. Remove the fat from the chops of a loin of mutton, put them into a fryingpan with two onions cut in slices, and fry until the meat is a light brown, put a little flour into a breakfast cupful of gravy to thicken it, pour it over the meat and cook slowly for about forty-five minutes. In the meantime put two carrots, two turnips, and a small head of celery into a saucepan of water and partly boil them; cut the vegetables in slices, add them to the pan with the meat and stew gently lor twenty minutes longer; add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup and one wineglasslul of sherry wine, boil up quickly, pour it on to a dish, and serve. MUTTON. Hashed Mutton. 193 Chop an onion and put it into a stewpan with a lump of butter and fry till nicely browned, then mix in a heaped tablespoonful of flour and stir in about one-half pint of clear stock, a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and a small quan- tity of mixed spices. Stir the sauce over the fire until boiling, then strain it through a gravy strainer and leave until cold. Cut some cold mutton into thin slices, trim off the skin, and most of the fat; put them into a stewpan with a few slices of pickled gherkins, pour in the sauce and heat gradually over a slow fire. When ready turn the hash on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of toast or croutons of bread fried a golden brown in butter, and serve with a dish of mashed potatoes. Hashed Mutton and Fried Eggs. Cut some cold mutton into nicely-shaped pieces, removing the fat and brown skin ; put them in a stewpan with some well-seasoned gravy and warm. When very hot stir some canned or freshly-peeled tomatoes in with them, place the hash on a hot dish, garnish around with fried eggs and small croutons of bread that have been fried in butter, and serve. Hashed Mutton, Zingara Stvlc. Chop up two onions and fry them in a saucepan with an ounce of butter for three minutes ; add one and one-half pounds of hashed mutton, and one-fourth the quantity of hashed cooked potatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, adding a little nutmeg if desired ; put in also two raw tomatoes cut up, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a crushed clove of garlic ; also a gill each of Spanish sauce and broth. Mix all together and cook for twenty minutes, then serve with a little chopped parsley sprinkled over the whole. Roasted Haunch of Mutton. Select a haunch of mutton that has been hanging for about two weeks, remove all the skin that covers the fat, take out the shank bone, cover it with well buttered paper, and put it in a hot oven to roast. Baste frequently, and when it has been cooking for about two hours, take off the paper to allow the meat to brown ; dust it over with salt, a little flour, and baste with butter. When quite done place it on a dish, put a paper frill on the shank bone, pour over one wineglassful of sherry wine mixed with some gravy, and serve with red currant jelly sauce. Stewed Sheep's Hearts. Wash and dry the desired quantity of hearts, make a stuffing with sifted bread- crumbs, two-thirds the quantity of beef suet, a tablespoonful of flour, a small quantity i 9 4 MUTTON. of chopped parsley and sweet herbs, grated lemon peel and nutmeg, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Stuff the hearts with this mixture, dip them in milk, roll them in flour, place them in a saucepan broad end downward with a piece of butter and fry until brown all over; then pour in one pint of stock, and simmer until the hearts are tender, which will take about one hour and a half. Remove the hearts, drain, and place them on a dish, keeping them hot while the gravy is being prepared. Skim the fat off the graw, thicken it with a small quantity of flour, mix with it one wine- glassful of claret and one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, pour it over the hearts, and serve them with currant jelly. Irish Stew. The best description of this would be a neck of mutton, onions and potatoes, stewed, the potatoes being the only Irish ingredient in the stew ; for Irish stew is not a national Irish dish in spite of its name. A good recipe for it is as follows: Cut two and one-half pounds of loin of mutton into fairly thick chops, and cut off the square ends of the bones. Peel a large quantity of potatoes and cut them into slices, also peel about one pound of onions. Put the chops and vegetables in layers, moisten to their height in cold water, set the saucepan on the fire until the liquor commences to boil, then move it to the side and keep it simmering gently for two hours or so. When the meat is tender, take it out and pile the potatoes, which should be thick, in the center, arrange the chops around the pile, garnish the dish with whole boiled potatoes and a few button mushrooms, and serve hot. Kidney Bacon Rolls. Peel and chop a small onion fine, and mix it with one teacupful of grated bread crumb, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a small quantity of pepper and grated nutmeg. Moisten the mixture slightly with beaten egg, spread it over some thin slices of bacon, and place a small kidney on each. Roll the bacon round the kidney and tranfix it with skewers. Put the rolls in a baking dish and bake them in a hot oven for twenty minutes. When done put the rolls on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Or they may be left until cold, and then served on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper. Broiled Mutton Kidneys, Maitre d'Hotel. Place some kidneys in boiling water to soak for a few minutes, remove them, dry, skin, and cut them down the center. Fasten them open with skewers, sprinkle over salt and pepper, dip into warmed butter, place them on a gridiron with the opened side downwards, and broil thoroughly. Dress them on a dish with a mixture of minced parsley, lemon-juice, salt ami pepper and maitre d'hotel butter in the (enter and serve verv hot. MUTTON. Curried Mutton Kidneys. E 95 Pour one wineglassful of rich gravy or brown sauce into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter well-kneaded with curry powder, and boil until it is fairlv thick. Meanwhile cut two or three onions in rings, fry them over a moderate fire to color slightly, sprinkle over a little salt, and drain them. Put in a dozen mutton kidneys, skinned and minced very finely in a fryingpan with a little butter, and fry them until done. Place them on a strainer to remove all the fat, arrange them on a dish, pour the sauce over them and decorate with the rings of fried onions and potato croquettes. Deviled Kidneys. Remove the skin from as many kidneys as may be required, parboil them in a small quantity of water, cut down the center and dip in warmed butter. Dust over with salt and pepper and a little cayenne if desired, broil over a clear fire, and serve on a dish with some butter worked in with minced parsley, pepper and salt. Mutton Kidnevs, French Stvle. Skin the kidneys, cut them into quarters,, put them into a fryingpan with a lump of butter, and fry them, dredging lightly over with (lour. When the kidneys are nearly cooked, put in a few chopped mushrooms, some chopped shallots and parsley, and a small wineglassful of sherry or white wine, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper, and finish frying them, stirring constantly at the same time. When cooked, turn the kidneys on to a hot dish, garnish with slices of lemons, and serve. Fried Kidneys. Cut some kidneys in halves down the center without severing, remove all the skin and fat, and sprinkle with cayenne and salt. Place them in a heated fryingpan, pour on a little clarified butter, fry quickly, and serve upon sippets of toast. Add a little catsup or sauce to the gravy, and pour it over before serving. Fried Mutton Kidneys with Curry Sauce. Trim four kidneys, cut them across in fine pieces, fry them in butter till nicely cooked, season with salt and pepper. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with one-half tablespoonful each of curry powder and flour, a little salt, and stir over the fire until mixed; then pour in graduallv two-thirds of a breakfast cupful of clear broth, and continue stirring until it boils. A small quantity of finely-chopped onions may be used to flavor the sauce, or the stewpan may be first rubbed over with garlic. When ready, put the kidneys on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with sippets of toast, or small croutons of bread that have been lightly fried in butter, and serve. 196 MUTTON. Mutton Kidneys in Border. Mould a border of chicken forcemeat or potato and turn it on to a hot broad round dish. Fill the center with sliced mutton kidneys prepared by stewing in Madeira and then masking half of the slices with Spanish sauce and* the remaining half with veloute. This gives a very pretty and artistic effect, the slices of kidney partaking of two colors, brown and white. Great care is required in arranging the slices to give them the appearance of being loosely tossed together. Prepare a sauce from the wine stock by thickening it with roux, season with pepper and salt, and serve separately in a sauceboat. Kidneys on Skewers. Remove the skin from a few kidneys and cut them nearly through, keeping them spread out by the use of skewers. Dip in a little warmed butter, put them on a but- tered gridiron and cook for eight minutes, turning often. Place them on a dish, add a little chopped parsley, lemon juice, pepper and salt to the butter, pour over it, and serve. Mutton Kidneys in Terrine. Put some mutton kidneys into a fryingpan with a little butter and fry them slightly; they should not be cut open for this. Place them in an earthenware ter- rine with a few slices of onions also browned in butter, and add a slice of lean bacon, two potatoes and two carrots also cut in slices; pour over one pint of stock or water, put on the lid, set the terrine in the oven, and cook gently for about three hours. When done take them out, put the terrine on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve. Stewed Kidneys. Skin, wash and dry some kidneys, cut them into round slices and dust with salt and pepper. Put one tablespoonful of butter and half that quantity of flour into a fryingpan, and when it is hot put in the kidneys, stir for two or three minutes, add one gill of water or stock and boil it up, stirring in one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Pile four tablespoonfuls of mashed potatoes on a plate, arrange the slices of kidney around the potatoes and then pour over and around the potatoes the gravy, which should be very thick, then garnish the dish with small pieces of toast. Boiled Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce. Cut off the shank bone from a leg of mutton, trim and make an incision at the first joint; put it on to boil in a stockpot filled with cold water and salt slightly, add a bunch of parsley and one carrot cut up. Boil for an hour or more, and, according to size, serve with a pint of hot caper sauce made by putting a pint of hot llollandaise MUTTON. 197 sauce into a saucepan and heating thoroughly without boiling for five minutes, and then adding a heaping tablespoonful of capers, or else an ordinary caper sauce may be used instead. Boiled Leg of Mutton with Oyster Stuffing. Take a dozen or more large oysters, remove the beards and uneatable parts, par- boil them, chop them up with boiled parsley, onion and sweet herbs, adding the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Make five or six incisions in the fleshy part of a leg of mutton, put in the stuffing, tie it up in a cloth and boil in a saucepan with plenty of water for from two to two and one-half hours, according to size. When done re- move the cloth, place on a dish, and serve at once. Braised Leg of Mutton. Put a leg of mutton in a braising pan with some slices of fat bacon on top and underneath it; put in also four carrots, two onions, a few meat bones, a bay leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, and three gills of gravy. Put the pan over a fire with hot ashes on the cover, and cook the contents slowly until done. Remove the leg of mut- ton, place it on a dish, and glaze; take off the fat from the gravy to strain, pour it over, and serve. Braised Boned Leg of Mutton, Milanese Style. The following recipe is a favorite dish of the Milanese, but the Italians of Rome and Naples are not so fond of it, as they think it has a woolly flavor. Remove the bone from a leg of mutton, and bone it as follows from the thick end down to the first joint; chop it off at the first joint, push in a knife near the joint to loosen the flesh, leaving the tendons and gristle on the bone; then commence at the small or tail end and scrape away the fat from the backbone and follow the bone up until the joint is reached, continuing in this way until all the bone is out. The cavity may be stuffed and sewed up at the thin end. Then bring the edges together at the upper end, push- ing all the flesh inside and sew the skin tightly together, which will give a rectangular form of solid meat and stuffing. To cut it straight down to the bone or to take it out would spoil it and much of the juice would escape, and if sewed up it would be very unsightly, but by this way the juice is preserved, and when the meat is cold it does not become dry and hard. Fill the cavitv with breadcrumbs soaked in broth and squeezed quite dry, adding a mixture of garlic, eggs, mushrooms, bacon, ham and pepper. Sew up the place where it was cut so that the stuffing will not fall out, and put it in an earthenware stewpan, with some small pieces of melted fat bacon. Put the pan over the fire and fry gently until it is a light color, turning often. Sprinkle over salt and pepper, add a few vegetables cut in slices, and pour in a wineglassful each of white wine and broth. Cover with a round of paper, put some hot ashes on the lid, 198 MUTTON. and braise for about four hours, adding a little more broth occasionally, and when done put it on a dish and keep hot. Add a little gravy or broth to the liquor in which it was cooked, bring to a boil, strain it, remove all the fat, and reduce quickly to half glaze, thickening it with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, keeping it quite light. Pour a little of the sauce over the leg, put the remainder in a sauceboat, gar- nish with potato croquettes and Brussels sprouts in piles, and serve hot. Leg of Mutton, Provincial Style. Take two or three each of cloves of garlic and anchovies cut into fillets, and lard a leg of mutton with them. Roast the mutton in a quick oven, keeping it well basted. Boil one or two more cloves of garlic, changing the water often, and when nearly done, drain and refresh them with cold water. Drain again, put into a stew- pan with one breakfast cupful each of stock and gravv, and boil until reduced to a thick creamy consistency. When cooked place the mutton on a hot dish, pour the sauce around it, garnish with vegetables, and serve. Roasted Leg of Mutton. Take a leg of mutton, wipe it dry, sprinkle it over with pepper and flour, chop off the knuckle bone, remove the thick skin, and trim the flank. Place in a roasting dish, add a little water and salt, put in the oven, and baste frequently. Allow about fifteen minutes for every pound if the oven is very quick, and twenty minutes if the oven is slow. When done, put it on a dish, pour the gravy round, and serve with some currant jelly on a separate dish. If the leg is too large for roasting, it can be divided, and the knuckle end either boiled, or the cut end covered with paste made of water and flour, and boiled. Roasted Boned and Stuffed Leg of Mutton. The principal difficulty in accomplishing this dish is the boning. This must be done with a very sharp knife. Commence on the under side of the joint, passing the knife under the skin until exactly over the bone; then cut down to it, pass the knife around close to the bone right up to the socket, remove the large bone of the thickest end of the leg, seeing the meat is clear of the bone, draw out the remaining bones, which will come away easily, and stuff the cavity with highly seasoned forcemeat. Fasten the knuckle end tightly over, replace the bone at the base of the joint and sew it in. Place in front of a clear fire, baste well until done, and seive with gravy. Roasted Leg of Mutton, Portuguese Style. Take a medium-si/cd leg of mutton take out the shank bone, trim well and make an incision at the first joint. Season with a little salt and pepper, rub one-half ounce MUTTON. ■99 of butter over and roast for one hour in a pan, basting occasionally with the gravy and turning it once in a while. Remove from the oven, place on a hot dish and serve with three stuffed tomatoes and three timbales of cooked rice, straining the gravy over it or it may be garnished with red or white beans cooked in gravy. Loin of Mutton in Papers. Saw the chine bone off the neck end of a loin of mutton, trim to a nioe shape, re- moving all the gristle and superfluous fat ; lay it in a deep dish with plenty of finely-* sliced carrots and onions, some peppercorns, cloves, sweet herbs and two or three bay leaves; season with salt and chopped parsley, moisten well with the best olive oil and leave the meat in the marinade for one day. Afterwards spread the marinading vegetables and oil over a large sheet of paper, lav the meat on them, binding it in position with tape. Roast it in a slow oven and when nearly done remove the paper and vegetables and brown the meat. Peel some potatoes and cut them into slices, and fry in a stewpan with butter, adding some finely chopped parsley until lightly and equally browned. When done, place the mutton on a hot dish, and serve it with the potatoes. Roasted Rolled Loin of Mutton. Take a loin of mutton weighing about three pounds, remove all the bones, take out the fillet and mince it very fine. Add to the mince an equal quantity of bread- crumbs, one minced shallot, a little chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste and sufficient egg to make it into a stiff paste. Put this on the mutton, tie it over tightly with a string, rub it well with flour, sprinkle some salt and pepper over it and place it in a slow oven to roast. Put a few onions into a fryingpan with the bones, fry them until they are brown, pour in a little stock and thicken with flour. Place the meat when done on a dish, pour the gravy round, and serve with a garnish of glazed onions. Roast Stuffed Loin ot Mutton. Bone a loin of mutton and then beat it with a rolling pin to flatten it as much as possible. Mix together one-half ounce of sweet almonds blanched, boiled for ten minutes, and pounded to a paste, one-fourth pound of mutton suet, chopped fine, one ounce of sifted breadcrumbs, one tcaspoonful of chopped parsley, one-half teaspoonful of mixed herbs, powdered or chopped fine, a seasoning of pepper and salt, a very little cayenne, a little grated nutmeg and grated lemon peel, the volks of two eggs and the white of one. When this stuffing is thoroughly mixed, spread it evenly over the inner side of the mutton, roll it neatly, skewer, tie and then roast it in a warm oven, keeping it well basted ; put the bones in a pan over the fire, with half a head of celery, half a carrot, an onion, a shallot and a very small piece of garlic ; pour over them about one pint of water and let them stew for three hours. Strain the liquor and add to it a little salt, one teaspoonful of soy, one dessertspoonful of mushroom 200 MUTTON. catsup, and one tablespoonful of flour, blended smooth with a little of the liquor, before mixing it with the whole quantity. Stir it till it boils and boil for ten minutes, stirring occasionally, then mix in one glass of sherry wine. When the mutton is dished pour the gravy over it, and serve very hot. Minced Mutton. Remove all the fat, skin and gristle from some cold cooked mutton, chop it up very fine, and pour over Italian sauce in the proportion of one pint of sauce to every pound of meat. Warm up thoroughly, without boiling in a saucepan, over a clear fire. Turn it out onto a dish and garnish with poached eggs or pieces of fried bread, and serve very hot. Neck of Mutton, Brittany Style. Chop off the chine bones and scrags of two necks of mutton, trim them to a nice shape, and roast in a hot oven, keeping them well basted. Put one pint of white beans to soak in water over night, drain and put in a saucepan with fresh water, one ounce of butter and a lump of salt ; boil until tender. As the beans will require much longer cooking than the mutton, they should be put over the fire some length of time before. Peel and thinly slice three large onions, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter or clarified fat, and fry until nicely browned, dredge a small quantity of flour over, and pour in two breakfast cupfuls of clear gravy. Stir the sauce over the fire until it boils, put in the beans with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, season to taste with salt and pepper, and stir until the glaze has dissolved. Place the mutton on a hot dish, pour the sauce around, and serve. Stewed Neck of Mutton, Duchess Style. Select a whole neck of mutton with the scrag end attached, weighing about three pounds, wash it well, sprinkle with flour and fry in a frying-pan until well browned. Put it in a saucepan with sufficient stock to cover, and add a carrot, two turnips and six small onions. Cover closely and cook slowly until the vegetables are thoroughly done; remove the vegetables, place them on a dish and keep warm. Continue to cook the mutton unfil done, which will take about four to five hours altogether. When done remove to a dish and keep hot. Let the gravy in the pan cool, remove the fat, and then reduce it quickly to about one pint; thicken with one tablespoonful of flour mixed smooth with two tablespoonfuls of stock. Put in the meat again and cook slowly for thirty minutes. Chop up the vegetables, put them into a saucepan with a little butter, toss over the fire until they are quite hot, and arrange on a dish in small piles around the mutton. Other cooked vegetables may be used as a garnish if desired. MUTTON. 201 Mutton on Skewers. Cut a leg or loin of mutton into small, equal-sized pieces, rub them over with finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper, lay them on a plate, place another on top, and leave them for a few hours. Cut a pound of tomatoes into halves, put them in a mortar and press them to extract the juice, which pass through a fine hair sieve. Place the pieces of meat on skewers, put them over a brisk fire and turn them often so as to brown evenly, basting them with the tomato juice. When they are cooked lay them on a hot dish, and serve very hot. If fresh tomatoes are not in season take about one teacupful of the liquor of canned ones, strain it through a fine hair sieve to free it of all pips, and mix it with one breakfast cupful of water. Minced Mutton Patties. Line some buttered patty pans with thin paste, fill them up with flour or rice, place in a moderate oven and bake. Take out when done, remove the flour or rice, turn them out of the pans and fill with minced cooked lean mutton; moisten with a little gravy, warm them up in the oven, and when hot place a napkin on a dish, lay them on it, and serve with a garnish of parsley. Mutton Pies. Make one and one-half pound of paste, divide it into eight pieces, each of which roll out as thin as possible. Partially boil four or five onions, then drain and chop them very fine. Chop a small quantity of mushrooms, and put them, together with the onions and a lump of butter, into a fryingpan and fry until brown. Mince finely a piece of mutton, fry it in butter for a few minutes and add it to the above. Place four of the flats of paste over each other, moistening between them with one spoonful of warmed butter, then put the mince mixture over in small quantities, a short dis- tance from each other. Moisten the paste round the mincemeat with a paste-brush dipped in water, then cover with the remaining pieces ot paste; press over each lot of mincemeat with a teacup, and cut round. Butter a bakingtin, lav the pieces on it. baste them with warmed butter, and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked and well colored, arrange on a dish and serve. Mutton Pilau, Sultana Style. Wash one pound of rice, put in a cloth and tie up, leaving room for the rice to swell. Cut one-fourth pound of the best part of mutton in small pieces, put them in a saucepan with one quart of water, and place over the fire until it boils. Then skim the liquor, and move to the side of the fire and simmer for half an hour. Strain the liquor off the meat into a basin, put four ounces of butter in with the meat and fry till nicely browned. Return the liquor to the saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of 202 MUTTON. skinned pistachios and one tablespoonful of washed currants, add a small quantity of mixed spices. Mince two ounces of mutton and fry it in butter till browned, then add it to the other ingredients. When the liquor boils put in the rice, move to the side of the fire, and simmer until soft. When done, arrange the pilau tastefully on a hot dish, and serve immediately. Mutton Rissoles. Mince some raw mutton quite fine, and season it with salt and pepper; then divide it into small equal-sized quantities and roll them into balls; put two ounces of butter in a fryingpan to heat, put in the balls and fry till nicelv browned. Drain them out and put in the remainder of the butter, three thinly sliced onions, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley to fry for a few minutes ; place the onions and parsley at the bottom of a stewpan, lav the balls on them side by side, pour in three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and sufficient clear broth to cover, and boil slowly for half an hour. When done, place the balls on a hot dish, pour their cooking liquor around them, and serve. Braised Saddle of Mutton. Remove the kidnevs from a saddle of mutton, cut off the skin covering the fat of both fillets and cut off the flaps or skirts and roll them up underneath. Place some slices of fat bacon in a braising pan, tie the meat around with twine, lay it in the pan and add an onion and a carrot cut in slices; season with salt, pour in a pint of broth and reduce over a clear fire; then pour in water to half its height and braise slowlv. When nearly done remove and drain out the meat, pass the liquor through a conical sieve, skim off the fat and add a little white wine. Put the fat with the mutton into a saucepan and finish the cooking in a slow oven, basting frequently and letting it get a good brown. When done place it on a dish and garnish with mashed vegetables, and serve with the strained liquor in a sauceboat. Saddle of Mutton in Surprise. Scoop out the meat from a cold saddle of mutton, cutting it close to the bone and leaving an outside thickness of about one and one-half inches wide. Mince the meat fine with a little of the fat and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions fried in a little butter, sprinkle over one tablespoonful of flour and one salt- spoonful each of salt and pepper, add one bay leaf and a little cayenne. Pour a breakfast cupful of broth into a saucepan, stir in the meat mixture, cook gently for ten minutes and add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Work two pounds of boiled potatoes into a stiff paste in a basin, roll out and form into an edging round the saddle of mutton, filling the cavitv scooped out of the joint witli the meat mixture. Hrush all over with cii>j;, cover with breadcrumbs and brown in a quick oven on a baking MUTTON. 203 sheet for a few minutes. Take it out, and serve on a dish with Spanish sauce poured round. Roast Saddle of Mutton. Remove all the fat and skin from a saddle of mutton, chop off the ends of the ribs and take out the cords and veins along the back. Wipe drv with a cloth and rub well inside with salt. Roll the flank under on each side, tie it three or four times across the middle, sprinkle well with flour, salt and pepper and put it in a baking dish with the inside upward so that the fat will be thoroughly cooked. Cover over it a piece of paper well buttered and cook until the fat is brown and crisp and the meat well done. Place on a dish, and serve. Roasted Saddle of Mutton with Chestnut Puree. Trim both fillets of a saddle of mutton, lard, fix in a roastingpan and cook in a hot oven, basting constantly, roast for about three-quarters of an hour, remove, sprin- kle some salt over and cut the fillets in slices in a slanting direction, letting them ad- here to a small part of the fat. Cut off the sides of the saddle, place them on a re- moving dish, forming with them a kind of support on which arrange the carved fillets of the saddle. Serve it with a separate dish of chestnut puree and a sauceboatful of melted half glaze. Boned Shoulder of Mutton, Prince of Wales Style. Bone a shoulder of mutton and lav it on a deep dish, sprinkle over one tcaspoon- ful each of bruised cloves, cardamoms, allspice, coriander seeds and long peppers; baste it with a breakfast cupful of common claret and one-half breakfast cupful of white wine vinegar, and two or three tablespoonfuls of salad oil. Leave the shoulder in the pickle for twenty-four hours. Put the bone and trimmings in a saucepan with two quarts of white stock and stew gently over a slow fire for several hours until all the goodness ; s extracted. Reduce the stock to about half its former quantity, strain into a basin, and when cold skim off all the fat. When sufficiently pickled drain the meat, roll, fasten with a skewer, put it in a saucepan with a few pieces of carrot, turnip and leek and four or five dried mushrooms, pour the stock of the bones over the meat and cook slowly until tender. When done drain the meat, place it on a hot dish, strain its cooking liquor into a small saucepan, soak one-fourth ounce of gelatine in red wine, stir it into the meat and boil until reduced to a half glaze. Cut some boiled carrots and turnips into rings, fry them in butter, sprinkle over some chopped parsley, arrange in alternate order round the meat, pour the glaze over the shoulder, and serve. Braised Boned Shoulder ot Mutton. Take out the bone from a shoulder of mutton (see boning"), letting the stump re- main for a handle. Lard it with strips of fat bacon and sprinkle chopped herbs, salt 204 MUTTON. and pepper over it. Roll it up and sew together with a trussing needle. Place a few slices of bacon at the bottom of a braising pan, put in the shoulder of mutton, add the shoulder bone and a small quantity each of carrots, onions, thyme and laurel leaves, two heads of celery and a little stock. Cover with slices of bacon and then with pa- per, place over a slow fire and simmer gently until done. Place on a dish, remove the string, and serve with a garnish of glazed onions. Spiced Shoulder of Mutton. Bone a shoulder of mutton, and rub it well with a mixture of two ounces of sugar, one teaspoonful each of ground mace and pepper, and one saltspoonful of powdered cloves. Continue to do this for a week, letting it remain in the pickle ; then roll it up, tie it round with a string, place in a stewpan with some good beef broth and cook slowly until done. Lay it on a dish, add a little piquant sauce to the broth, and serve. Stewed Shoulder of Mutton. Put a boned shoulder of mutton into a saucepan with a little broth, parsley, cloves, bay leaf, a small clove of garlic, a few carrots, turnips and onions, and salt and pepper to taste, and stew gently until thoroughly cooked. Remove, drain well, place it on a baking dish, pour over a little thick gravy, sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Mix the yolks of three eggs in a basin with a little oiled butter, spread it over the mutton, and cover again with breadcrumbs. Place it in a hot oven to brown, basting frequently with hot butter. Remove to a dish and serve with a little of the gravy strained and reduced. Mutton Steak, Florentine Style. Cut the meat off a leg of mutton in thick slices, rub each slice over with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg on both sides. Season some breadcrumbs with thyme, savory, cloves, mace, salt and pepper, and bind them with beaten yolks of eggs, then divide and mould the mixture into small balls ; butter the edges of a pie-dish, line them with paste, and put in the slices of mutton, together with the balls, four chopped shallots, a little powdered sweet herbs, and two or three anchovies. Moisten with one-half pint each of claret and water, and put on top one-half pound of butter, broken in small pieces. Cover with puff paste, and trim around the edges, moisten- ing and pressing them together. Bake in a hot oven, and serve while hot. Stewed Mutton. Remove the bone from a leg of mutton, cut the meat in large squares, put them in a basin, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a bunch oi sweet herbs, pour in one wineglassful of vinegar, and let them remain for a few hours to soak. Take out, drain, put them into a stockpot with ten ounces of fat bacon chopped small and MUTTON. 205 melted, cook slowly for twenty minutes, pour over the marinade liquor, add two bay leaves, and a few cloves of garlic. Let it cook for five minutes longer, then draw the pot to the side of the fire, cover it with a piece of paper, lay a plate on top, and stew slowly until the meat is done. When ready take out the meat, place on a dish, skim off the fat from the liquor, add two or three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, boil it up once, pour it through a fine sieve over the meat, and serve it with a dish of rice. Stewed Mutton, Farmer's Style. Put into a saucepan three pounds of breast or shoulder of mutton cut in small squares, with one ounce of butter, and six small onions. Cook for ten minutes or till of a good golden color. Add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well together, and moisten with three pints of light broth or water, stirring continually while boiling. Season with one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, and one-half tea- spoonful of nutmeg, adding two carrots and two turnips cut into small pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs and one crushed clove of garlic. Boil over a moderate fire for thirty minutes; put in one-half pint of Lima or white beans, and let the whole cook again for fifteen minutes Skim off the fat well, remove the parsley, and serve. Mutton Stew, Turkish. Cut some leg of mutton into small pieces, wash, put in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover, season with salt and pepper, and boil till tender. Scald one breakfast cupful of chick peas, put them in with the meat, skimming the liquor, and boil until tender. Slice three onions, fry them until brown, then add them to the stew. Place some slices of toast in the bottom of a hot dish, pour the stew over, and serve. Timbale of Mutton. Put some macaroni into a stewpan with a small lump of butter and milk and water to cover, boil for a few minutes, then strain off the liquid. Pour over the macaroni a small quantity of clear stock, and cook slowly until tender. Chop some cold mutton, also one or two slices of bacon, put them in a stewpan with the macaroni, add the grated peel of half a lemon, and season highly. Grate in one ounce of cheese and toss the whole over the fire until hot, then turn onto a plate and let it cool. Butter a mould, strew grated breadcrumbs in and line it with puff paste. When the mixture is quite cold, put it in the mould, cover it with paste, trimming off neatly round the edges, press them together, and bake the timbale in a rather slow oven. When cooked turn it out of the mould onto a dish, cut off the top and glaze the timbale. Arrange in the opening left by the removal of the top some freshly prepared and chopped salad; garnish round the dish with parsley, slices of cucumber and red radishes, and serve very cold. 2 o6 MUTTON. Braised Sheep's Tongues with Lettuce. Steep the tongues in warm water with a little flour in it until the blood has soaked out of them, and blanch them, then put the tongues in a stewpan with a good braise, and then let them cook slowly. Wash and blanch as many cabbage lettuces as there are tongues, drain them as free as possible of water, open and cut out the stalks, dust them with salt and pepper, and tie them in their original form. Line a stewpan with slices of fat bacon, put them in the lettuces, moisten to their height with broth, and stew them until tender. When cooked, peel the tongues, drain the lettuces, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the grease. Arrange the tongues and lettuces on a hot dish alternately, pour a Spanish sauce over them, and serve. Grilled Sheep's Tongues. Boil the required number of sheep's tongues, skin them, and cut them into slices; spread over each a mixture of pepper, salt and curry powder, roll them up, fasten them with skewers, wrap them in paper, place them on a gridiron and grill them. Serve hot. Sheep's Tongues in Papers. Wash the tongues and blanch them until the skins can be easily removed, and then peel them off. Place them in a stewpan, cover with nicely flavored stock and boil until tender. Butter as many sheets of paper as there are tongues, and over each spread a mixture of finely-chopped mushrooms and sweet herbs that have been worked up in a lump of butter and seasoned with pepper and salt. Drain the tongues, lay them on pieces of paper and wrap them up well so that none of the seasoning can escape. Place them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side. Spread a folded napkin on a hot dish, lay the tongues in the papers on it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Stewed Sheep's Tongues. Put two or three sheep's tongues into a saucepan with water and boil them until the skin can easily be removed, which will take about two hours. Skin, cut them lengthwise into halves and put them in a saucepan with a little parsley, chopped shal- lot, mushrooms, butter, pepper and salt, and pour over sufficient gravy to moisten. Place the saucepan on the fire and cook gently until the tongues are tender. Put them on a dish, strain the gravy over them, and serve. Basserole of Sheep's Trotters with Rice. Blanch a number of small sheep's trotters, remove the long bone and .split each foot in two lengthwise. Put two chopped onions, a carrot, a turnip, three bav Leaves, MUTTON. 207 a small bunch of thyme, and a few cloves into a stevvpan with a little dripping or chopped suet, and fry them over a slow fire for about ten minutes, then sift in two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix it well, pour in by degrees two quarts of white stock, add the feet with a small lump of salt, and allow the whole to simmer by the side of the fire until quite tender, then drain them on a cloth. Pour one quart of white sauce and one pint of the strained cooking liquor of the feet into a saucepan and boil it quickly until reduced to a thick cream, then put in the feet with about twenty button mush- rooms and two or three tablcspoonfuls of chopped parsley, season with pepper and salt and let them simmer for a few minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs with one teacupful of cream, stir them in with the above mixture, not allowing them to boil after the eggs arc added; squeeze the juice of half a lemon into this, turn it into a casserole, and serve. Sheep's Trotters, Poulette. Put about a dozen sheep's trotters into water the day before they are required. Split the hoof in two, take out the woolly tuft, trim them neatly, tie them together in fours, scald and put them into a saucepan with two or three carrots, turnips and onions, peeled but left whole, and season with cloves, peppercorns and a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs. Mix one tablespoonful of flour with a little water, pour it into the saucepan, cover the feet with cold water, stand the saucepan over a moderate fire and let the water boil for six hours. Take out the feet, drain them, remove the shank bone, place the feet in an empty saucepan and leave them with the cover on. Fry a large chopped onion in butter with one-half teacupful of flour until nicely browned. Put one quart of broth into another saucepan and drop in a bunch of parsley and a few mushroom trimmings; stir in the flour and onions and continue stirring over the fire until the broth boils; then move it to the side and let it simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes. Skim it clear of fat and pass it through a conical- shaped strainer into the saucepan containing the feet; then add two ounces of button mushrooms, peeled and trimmed, and a pinch of pepper. Heat the yolks of three with a little milk and in twenty minutes' time stir them into the broth, with five or six small lumps of butter, a little lemon juice and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. When cooked sufficiently arrange the feet upon a dish, garnish with crou- tons of fried bread ; they are then ready to be served. Sheep's Trotters, Vinaigrette. Trim a dozen sheep's trotters, split their hoofs and remove the tuft which is found between the toes; tie them together in fours, place them in a saucepan with cold water and set it over the fire until the water boils; then remove the feet, rinse them in a little cold water, put them in the saucepan with fresh water, add two or three carrots and turnips, one large onion stuck with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few sprigs of parsley and some peppercorns and salt, and let them simmer by 208 MUTTON. the side of the fire for about five hours. When done remove the feet, untie them, take out the shank bones carefully so as not to tear the flesh, lay the flesh on a plate, sprinkle over some chopped parsley, pepper and salt and let them cool. Beat the yolks of three eggs with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, dip the feet into it, roll them in finelv-grated breadcrumbs and broil them in front of a clear fire, turning till browned on both sides. Baste with a little butter, and serve with either tartar or mayonnaise sauce. Pork. Bacon and Eggs. The rashers of bacon, cut from the back, must be trimmed of all bone, rind and smoked part, and put into a hot fryingpan very clean. Cook until nicely browned, but without burning, taking care that the fat docs not "catch." When the bacon is laid on a dish, the shells of the eggs must be carefully broken so as not to break the yolks, each being broken separately and kept from one another. As each egg is added to the fryingpan, the white should be allowed to set before adding another. Baste them with hot fat, trim and put one on each piece of bacon. Mashed potatoes may be served around the sides of the dish if desired. Bacon and Spinach. Line a pudding-dish with thin slices of raw bacon trimmed to one size and arranged symmetrically. Take boiled spinach ready chopped for the table, and i with butter, salt and pepper, also some boiled carrots, turnips and boiled onions. Whip up the yolk of an c^, with pepper and salt, and mix the carrots and turnips with the egg and seasoning. Arrange the squares of vegetables alternately amongst the slices of bacon, and place in a saucepan partially filled with boiling water, but not deep enough to boil over, and steam for an hour. Turn out on a flat dish and serve with a rich brown gravy. Boiled Bacon and Cabbage. This dish may also be prepared with broad beans, in lieu of the cabbage; in either case the process is the same, and is as follows: Cut a good cabbage into quarters and remove some of the thick part of them, as much as can be done without disturbing the leaves. Soak in a pan of cold water until it is wanted. Put the cab- bage into a large saucepan containing some water boiling, with a teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of bicarbonate of soda, and cook for half an hour. Take some good bacon, cleaning off the smoky parts, place in cold water and then boil for half an hour separately. Drain both the cabbage and the bacon and put them together in one pot, covering them with boiling water which has not been used before, and let them cook slowly for another half-hour. Remove the cabbage as whole as possible, drain on a colander, and, after slicing the bacon, serve it on the cabbage in a dish with a drainer. 210 PORK. Broiled Bacon. Broil in a double gridiron in front of a clear fire some slices of streaky bacon nicely trimmed, turning frequently till done. Or the slices cut to one size may be rolled up and stuck on skewers when they may either be broiled or baked in an oven. Remove from the skewer before serving. Broiled Liver and Bacon. As broiling in most cases is wasteful, the liver and bacon are generally fried together, but the dish is somewhat spoiled by this method. The best plan is to fry the well-trimmed slices of bacon, and after having washed and sliced the liver not too thick, say a third of an inch, dry it thoroughly on a cloth, flour it and dip into the bacon fat in the fryingpan and broil over a clear fire, adding pepper and salt while cooking. When done, lay each slice on a dish with a piece of bacon on each piece of liver. Fried Bacon. Select a piece of streaky or back and trim off the rind, bone and smoky portions before slicing. Cook in a fryingpan until the fat is transparent and the lean lightly browned on both sides and crisp. Drain on paper, and serve. Preparing Bacon for Breakfast. The bacon must be fresh and in fine condition. It is cut with a keen knife, the under bones being cut off, and both edges pared neatly, also the end opposite from the string for hanging it up. Then cut up the requisite number of slices for im- mediate use, and no more. Thin slices are always preferable, so that the bacon, whether boiled or fried, will be crisp and tasty. When cutting the slices, be careful not to detach the skin; also cut crosswise, but never lengthwise. Arrange on the broiler, and broil over a moderate fire for two minutes on each side. Dress on a hot dish, serving at once. Four minutes is plenty of time for the frying. Bacon Salted, Dried and Smoked. The previous description applies precisely with regard to the salting and drying. The next step is the smoking. The smoke is generally that of burning wood or straw, hickory chips or corncobs. Woods containing resins, such as pine, are not advisable, as they would give an unpleasant flavor to the bacon. They are usually (hied slowlv over the smoke made by burning sawdust, oak or beach, the tire being kept night and day by smothering with dry sawdust. The flitches should be hung up high until quite dry, but not so hard that the rind begins to peel off. Sometimes the rubbing over the flitch with bran is advocated, although not especially recommended, PORK. 211 as it encourages flies to settle on it. This may be prevented by wrapping in bags before they are suspended. Bacon with Macaroni. Place a couple of ounces of macaroni with a little well seasoned stock in a saucepan, and simmer gently on the side of the fire until quite tender, which will take about an hour, but care should be taken that it is not allowed to become over- done or pulpy. Add a little streaky bacon boiled and cut into squares, and a small lump of butter. Toss the pan over the fire for a few moments, seasoning with salt and pepper, then turn onto a dish, and serve very hot. Baked Pork. The skin, if left on, should be well scraped with a dull knife, and afterwards wiped thoroughly with a wet cloth and scored into little squares. If, however, the skin lias been removed trim off some of the loose fat, cut out the chine or backbone, disjoint- ing it from the ends of the ribs so that it may facilitate the carving of the meat. Place in a drippingpan a few slices of carrot, turnip and onion, together with a dozen cloves, whole, a teaspoonful of peppercorns and a few leaves of parsley or celery; lav tin- pork upon the vegetables, place the pan in a moderate oven and cook to a brown, when it may be seasoned with salt, pepper and pounded sage, and finish the cooking, allowing about fifteen minutes to each pound of the meat. One hour before the pork- is done prepare the garnish as follows: Procure a dozen peeled white onions, break the layers apart and put them in a pan, with a teaspoonful each of sugar and butter, with a little salt and pepper, set the pan in the oven, occasionally shaking it, in order to move the onions about and insure their browning with uniformity; after the onions have been prepared wash four sour apples, quarter them and remove the cores, put them into a pan with barely enough water in to cover, and a tablespoonful of butter on each and bake them until they are tender, but do not allow them to become broken, and keep both the- onions and apples hot, serving them with- the pork. When the meat is done place it on a hot dish and arrange the onions and apples in little groups around it, and serve with a dish of plain-boiled potatoes with brown gravy. The gravy may be prepared by pouring out nearly all of the drippings rrom the pan in which the pork was cooked, leaving in the scraps of vegetables, set the pan over the fire and stir in a heaped tablespoonful of flour, cook it until brown and then add a pint of boiling water, gradually a little at a time, season the gravy with salt and pepper and again boil for a moment or two, strain and it is ready for serving with the pork. Broiled Pork with Chili Sauce. Prepare the chili sauce before cooking the meat, and in a goodly quantity, as it will keep for a considerable length of time. The cutlets are to be about half an inch in thickness and cut from a leg of fresh pork. Place them between the bars of a double 212 PORK. gridiron over a moderate fire and cook them for about twenty minutes. When done, place them on a hot dish, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, put a little butter over them, and serve with a sauceboatful of chili sauce. Broiled Pork Chops. Cut from a loin of pork the required quantity of chops, trim them neatly from all fat and place them in a fryingpan and fry for a few minutes. Remove and put them on a gridiron or grill over a clear fire and broil them until done. Pour into a fryingpan with the fat from the chops, a breakfast cupful of milk and add a little salt and pepper, thickening with a small lump of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce onto a dish through a fine sieve, arrange the chops in it, and serve. Curried Pork. Remove the skin and most of the fat from two and a half pounds of pork and chop it into small thin slices, which place in a saucepan with a little butter, frying them for a few minutes, then add four onions cut up into small pieces and fried, a tablcspoonful each of curry-powder and paste, and add a little salt and pepper to taste. When thoroughly mixed, pour in two breakfast cupfuls of water or stock, place the pan over the fire, and, as soon as it boils, remove to one side and let it cook gently for from three quarters of an hour to an hour, then take out the pieces of meat, place them on a dish and reduce the liquor to half its original quantity, after which pour it over the meat, and serve garnished with a border of well boiled rice, or, if preferable, the rice may be served separately. Pork Cutlets and Anchovv Sauce. Broil on a well-greased gridiron over the fire seven nicely cut and trimmed cutlets of pork; place some anchovv sauce warmed on a very hot dish; put frills on the bones of the pork cutlets, and lay them around the dish, overlapping each other, and serve very hot, garnished with fried parsley. Fried Pork Cutlets. Cut off all the skin and most of the fat from a loin of pork, and chop it up into cutlets, which place in a fryingpan with a lump of butter, and fry to a good golden brown color. In the meanwhile, put the bones, skin and any trimmings of bacon or ham, into a saucepan with a couple of onions cut into slices, and when they become well browned, pour over them sufficient water to nearly cover, and boil for two hours, then strain and skim off all fat ; pour into another saucepan with a little isinglass to thicken it, and mix in a little browning to color. Brush the cutlets over with this glaze, put them on a dish and pour over a little tomato sauce, serving quickly. PORK. 213 Pig's Ears. These are esteemed as food principally on account of their crisp, cartilaginous character. Baked Pig's Ears. Singe off all the hair from half a dozen or so pig's ears, and scrape and blanch them. Let them get cold, put them into warmed butter, rub them over with bread crumbs, covering them completely, then dip them into well-beaten yolk of egg, and breadcrumb them again. Put them in a baking dish in a moderate oven, and bake until done and lightly browned. Take them out, place on a dish, pour over some remoulade sauce and serve. Braised Pig's Ears. Thoroughly clean the required quantity of pig's ears, singe off all the hair, and scrape them. Put a layer of slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a braising pan, place the cars on it, sprinkle over with salt and pepper, add a few slices of carrots and onions and a bunch of sweet herbs. Pour in sufficient stock to moisten, set the pan on the fire with hot ashes on the lid, and lot them cook till they are done. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve, skim off the fat, arrange the ears on a dish, pour the liquor over, and serve very hot. Pig's Ears, Lyonese. Singe off all the hair from some pig's cars, scrape, wash them well, and cut lengthwise into strips. Put them into a saucepan with a little stock, add a small quantity of flour, a few slices of onions fried, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the pan over a slow fire, and simmer the liquor until the cars arc thoroughly cooked. Arrange them on a dish, add a little lemon juice to the liquor, pour it with the onions over the ears, and serve with a garnish of slices of fried bread. Boiled Pig's Feet. Wash some pig's feet well, put them over the fire in a stewpan, with just water enough to cover, and as soon as the water boils remove the pan from the fire, strain off the water, and plunge them in a bowl of cold water. Clean the pan and put the feet into it again, with two quarts pf water, one tablespoon each of salt and vinegar, and one ounce of flour blended smoothly in a little cold water. Put the pan over the fire and stir the contents till they boil, then place over a slow fire and simmer lor four hours. Place the feet on a hot dish, pour over some good white sauce, and serve hot. Broiled Pig's Feet. Thoroughly clean as many pig's feet as are required, split them lengthwise in halves, tie them round with broad tape so that they will not open, or shrink in cook- 2i 4 PORK. ing, put them in a saucepan with a seasoning- of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, allspice, carrots and onions, with sufficient water to cover, and boil slowly till tender, then let them cool in the liquor. Dip them in beaten yolks of eggs and warmed butter; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with breadcrumbs, seasoned with very finelv chopped shallot and parsley. Put them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil until well and evenly browned. Unbind and arrange them on a dish and garnish with fried parsley, or they can be served with Robert sauce. Crepinettes of Pig's Feet. Put the four feet of a pig in a saucepan of water, and boil them till they are quite tender ; take them out, drain, and cut them in slices about one-half inch in thickness. Put some pig's caul in a basin of water to steep, take it out, drain and wipe it dry on a cloth. Prepare some forcemeat with knuckle of veal and fat bacon in equal quantities and mixed with a little spiced salt ; spread a layer of this over the caul about one-fourth inch thick, three inches long, and one and one-half inches wide. Have ready some truffles, cooked in Madeira and cut in slices, arrange a few of them on some forcemeat and then a few pieces of the pigs' feet. Cover over the whole with another laver of the forcemeat, and then roll over the caul so as to form an oval, three inches in length and two inches in width. When the required number of crepinettes are made, dip them in warmed butter, then roll them in bread crumbs, place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil slowly for fifteen minutes, or until they are a light brown color. Put them on a dish, and serve with a little pcrigueux sauce in a sauceboat. Fricasseed Pig's Feet and Ears. Clean and wash the feet and ears of a pig, cut them up in small pieces, put them in a saucepan with one pint of milk, and boil for an hour. Strain off the liquor, and put the pieces of meat in another saucepan, add a breakfast cupful of veal broth, a small onion, the peel of half a lemon, and a little powdered mace. Simmer over a slow fire until well done, then mix in one gill of cream, one ounce of butter well rolled in flour, and one saltspoonful of salt, warm up again, turn all on to a dish, and serve very hot. Stewed Pig's Feet. Place a couple of thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, put in the feet with a blade of mace, a few peppercorns, two or three sprigs of thyme, and enough good gravy to moisten them to height, and boil slowly. When quite tender, split each foot lengthwise into halves, and lay them open on a hot dish; strain their cooking liquor into a small saucepan, mix with it a small lump of butter that has been kneaded with flour, and the bacon from the stewpan, first cutting it up into small pieces. Let the sauce simmer at the c a few cloves of garlic, mix them with the above ingredients and chop all together for a few minutes longer, ad- ding by degrees at the same time one pint of water. Fill some pig's intestines with the mixture, tie them into small sausages and smoke them lor a few hours. Boil the sausages for five minutes then drain them cool. Stewed Sausages with Cabbage. Procure a medium-sized white cabbage, remove all the green leaves, and cut it into quarters, removing the center stalks. Wash thoroughly in cold water, dram well, cut them into small pieces, put them into boiling salted water for five minutes. Re- move it to cold water to cool moderately, take out the pieces of cabbage, drain in a colander and put into a saucepan with one gill of fat from soup stock or one ounce of butter. Season with a pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper and a whole me- dium-sized onion and a carrot cut into quarters. Put on the cover of the saucepan, set it on a moderate fire and cook for half an hour. Take twelve sausages, prick them with a fork, add them to the cabbage and allow all to cook together for twelve min- utes. Dress the cabbage on a hot dish and arrange the sausages and carrot on top. Serve very hot. Westphalian Sausages. Use uncooked pork, the fat and lean of which should be as nearly as possible in equal quantities; cut it up into small squares, and for every pound of meat season with one-half ounce of salt and a small quantity of freshlv-ground black pepper. Thor- oughly clean a number of pig's skins and soak them in cold-salted water for one or two hours. Fill the skins with the sausage mixture and hang them up to smoke. When sufficiently smoked they may be prepared for serving when liked. If the sau- 226 PORK. sages are to be eaten fresh they will be improved by hanging another week in a cool and very dry place. Roasted Shoulder of Pork. Remove the bone from a shoulder of pork and spread it over inside with a stuf- fing of sage and onions, filling the cavity where the bone was taken out; roll up and secure it with a string, place it in a pan and roast in a good hot oven until done. Put it on a dish, skim off the fat from the pan, adding a little water to it and a table- spoonful of made mustard, boil the gravy up once and pass it through a strainer over the meat, and serve. Suckling Pig. The suckling pig should not be more than a month or six weeks old, and if pos- sible it should be dressed the day after it is killed. The first step is to scald it, and this should be done as follows : Put a large pan of water over the fire to boil. Soak the pig in cold water for fifteen minutes, then plunge it into the boiling water, hold it by the head and shake it about until the hair begins to loosen. Then take it out of the water and rub it vigorously with a coarse towel until all the hairs are removed. Cut the pig open, remove the entrails, and wash it thoroughly in plenty of cold water. Dry the pig on a towel, cut the feet off at the first joint, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and keep it wrapped in a wet cloth until ready for use. Baked Suckling Pig. Choose a small, plump pig. Use the liver, heart and lights for the dressing, after first putting them over the fire in salted boiling water, and boiling them until tender, or mincing after browning them in butter. Peel and grate an onion, put it over the fire in a fryingpan with two tablcspoonfuls of butter, and fry it slowlv ; mince the heart, liver and kidneys, add them to the onion ; soak two breakfast cupfuls of bread in cold water until soft, then squeeze it in a towel to extract the water, and put it with the minced mixture and onions; season the mixture highly with salt, pepper, ground sage, and marjoram, and stir it till it is scalding hot. Use this stuffing for the pig, sewing it up; truss it so as to keep the legs in place, put it into a dripping pan just large enough to hold it, and bake it in a moderate oven. For the first hour baste it with butter and water, after that with butter alone. If the ears and tail seem in danger of browning, wrap them in buttered paper, season it two or three times with salt and pepper while it is being basted, A medium-sized pig will take from two to two and one-half hours to bake. When the pig is done put it on a dish to keep hot after removing the stitches which retain the stuffing, and garnish with brussel sprouts and potato croquettes. Place the dripping-pan over the fire, stir in one tablcspoon- ful of flour, and brown it ; then add equal quantities of boiling water or wine, or three parts of water and one of mushroom or walnut catsup. Let the gravy thus made boil once, season it with salt and pepper, and then serve it with the baked PORK. 227 pig. The stuffing may be varied by using mashed potatoes instead of the soaked bread. Apple sauce is the usual accompaniment. Cold-slaw and cranberry jelly or stewed cranberries are used in America with roasted or baked suckling pig. Prepare the apple sauce as follows : Peel, quarter, and core some tart apples, stew them to a pulp over a slow fire, adding at first three tablespoonfuls of water to one pint of apples to prevent their burning ; when the apples are stewed to a pulp, stir with them a tablespoonful of butter to each pint of the sauce, and then use it either hot or cold. Timbale of Suckling Pig. Cut up half a small suckling pig into small pieces, and put them in a saucepan with a little mirepoix and white wine, and boil them. Take out the pieces of meat and let them cool, removing the bones, if any. Add a little calf's-foot jelly to the liquor and clarify it. Pack a large-sized timbale mould in ice, place poached intermixed with sliced gherkins and slices of beet-root in the bottom and round the sides, dipping each into half-set jelly to keep them fixed in their places. Pour a thick layer of jelly at the bottom of the mould, and when it is set and firm, arrange the pieces of pig's meat, alternating with minced gherkins and whole capers, taking care to leave a hollow space in the center. Fill this cavity with almost cold but stiff liquid jelly and let it set firm. Turn the timbale out onto a dish, and serve with a little horseradish sauce in a sauceboat. Boiled Pigs Tails. Trim and well wash four or five pig's tails, put them in a saucepan of salted water and boil until done. Take them out, drain, wipe them on a cloth, and arrange on a dish over a puree of peas. Put a few chopped mushrooms in a fryingpan with a little butter, and fry till quite brown; put them in a saucepan with a little stock, reduce it, and add the yolks of one or two eggs to thicken. Pour it when ready over the tails, and serve. Veal. Attereaux of Veal and Ham. Cut into slices about one-fourth of an inch in thickness a quantity of cold cooked veal and lean ham. Divide these into flat squares about one inch wide each way. String them on small steel or silver skewers, arranging the ham and veal alternately, commencing with a veal square and ending with the same. Dip the attereaux into egg, roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry them for a few minutes. Take them out, arrange on a dish on a folded napkin. Garnish them with sprigs of fried parsley and serve as hot as possible. They are held in the hand by means of a table napkin, and the pieces are taken off the skewer with a fork to.be eaten. Blanquette of Veal and Ham. Cut one and one-half pounds of cooked veal into pieces, and mix it with one-half pound of cooked ham, also cut into pieces. Put the meat into a saucepan with one pint of cream sauce, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, a small quantity each of pepper and salt, and boil it. When boiling, move the saucepan to the* side of the fire, add the yolks of two eggs that have been beaten with one tcacupful of milk, and stir by the side of the fire for a few minutes. Turn the blanquette out onto a hot dish, garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs, and serve. Blanquette of Veal with Mushrooms in Croustade. Cut some cold roasted fillet of veal into collops one and one-half inch in diameter, and one-fourth of an inch thick, slice one-fourth of the quantity of mushrooms, and mix them with the veal in some allemande sauce. Prepare a paste croustade two inches high, and the same size as the dish on which it is to be served, make the blanquette hot, turn it into the croustade, and serve. Blanquette of Veal with Noodles. The same as for Blanquette of Veal, arranging one-fourth of a pound of cooked noodles round the serving dish as a border. Blanquette of Veal with Peas. Prepared the same as for Blanquette of Veal, adding one pint of cooked green or canned blanched peas two minutes before serving. 228 VEAL. 229 Boudins of Veal. Chop fine the remains of some cold veal and stir in with it some finely chopped bacon and parsley; season to taste with salt, pepper and the smallest quantity of mace. Place the mince in a stewpan, moisten it with a few tablespoonfuls of clear gravy and stir it over the fire until very hot; then move it to the side of the fire and stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs. Thickly butter the interior of some small tin boudin moulds, fill them three-fourths full of the above mixture and tie a sheet of buttered paper over each. Stand the tins in a stewpan with boiling water to about half their height and boil the contents for about twenty minutes. At the end of that time turn the boudins out of their tins onto a hot dish, pour some white sauce over them, and serve. Croquettes of Calf's Brains. Boil one-half pound of brains gently for about twenty minutes, and then put them in cold water for a few minutes; peel off the outside, chop up the brains and add one-half breakfast cupful of breadcrumbs; mash all together, add a tea- spoonful of finely-minced parsley, one ounce of butter, the yolk of an eg little lemon juice, grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all well together, and after flouring the hands make it up into shapes resembling sausages. Coat these with flour and fry in a wire basket, in lard or butter, until they are of a slight yellow color. Serve with cream sauce. Calf's Brains in Matelote. Peel twenty small onions and put them into a saucepan with one ounce of butter, and fry to a light brown color; add half an ounce of flour, stirring well for a few minutes; then add one-half break last cupful of good broth, one teacupful of red wine, and salt and -pepper to suit the taste. Place the pan on the side of the fire, and let the liquor simmer for thirty minutes. Open a can of mushrooms, pick them over, wash, and cut into fairly small pieces; put them into the sauce and boil for eight minutes longer. Drain the boiled brains, place on a warm dish, surrounded with the onions and mushrooms, and serve with the sauce poured over all. Calf's Brains in Scallop Shells. After boiling two brains, cut them into dice, season well, and put them into a basin. Gradually reduce two or three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce in a sauce- pan, and add two tablespoonfuls of melted glaze. When it is cooked to a nice cream, add four tablespoonfuls of cooked sweet herbs, cook the mixture for two or three minutes, then add the brains, and take the pan off the fire. Have ready eight or nine well-cleaned scallop shells, fill them with the mixture, sprinkle over some grated Parmesan cheese, and glaze. Serve hot. 2 3 VEAL. Calf's Brains, Poulette Style. Put a large piece of butter in a saucepan, and after melting it gradually add one teacupful of flour, mix well together and add one teacupful of clear broth, taking care to stir well all the time, then add about half a gill of white or Madeira wine and water in equal parts. Next add a few small onions and mushrooms and boil until they are done, adding a little grated nutmeg and salt and pepper according to the taste; when these are soft put in the brains and boil again for twelve or fifteen minutes; take out the brains and put them on a dish, add the yolk of an egg and the juice of a lemon to the sauce and pour it over the brains. The dish must be served very hot. Calf's Brains with Black or Brown Butter. After cleaning, blanching and preparing take three calf's brains, put them in a stewpan and cover over with water, add two or three pinches of salt, one-half break- fast cupful of vinegar, one medium-sized sliced carrot, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf and a dozen whole peppers; boil for five minutes, drain thoroughly and cut each brain into halves. Arrange on a dish, and serve with one gill of very hot black or brown butter. Braised Breast of Veal, Milanese Style. Bone a breast of veal weighing about two and one-half pounds, and season with one tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Stuff it in the usual way with forcemeat, roll and tie it, making a few incisions in the skin. Put it into a braising-pan with a sliced carrot and onion, and braise it for an hour and a half, bast- ing it now and then with its own gravy. Serve with one pint of hot Milanese garn- ishing on a dish, placing the meat on top, and straining the gravy over it. Breast of Veal, Poulette. Cut a breast of veal into small equal-sized pieces, blanch, put them in a saucepan with a small quantity of the water in which they were parboiled and warm them over the fire. Sift in a small quantity of flour, stir it until smooth, then put in a lump of butter, some mushrooms, carrots, bay leaves, a bunch of sweet herbs and salt and pep- per to taste. Place the lid on the saucepan and cook the contents gradually until nearly done, then put in some young white onions and fish cooking. When done place the pieces of veal on a hot dish and keep it near the fire while the sauce is be- ing prepared. Strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair sieve into another sauce- pan, squeeze in a small quantity of lemon juice and then pour in the beaten yolks of four eggs; stir it over the fire until thick, not allowing it to boil, then pour it over the veal, and serve. VEAL. 2 3> Roasted Breast of Veal. Remove the tendons from a breast of veal, fasten the sweetbread to the joint with skewers, wrap it up in a sheet of buttered paper, place in a pan and roast it in a hot oven. When the veal is cooked, which will take about an hour and a quarter, or pos- sibly more, according to the size of the joint, remove the paper, place the veal on a hot dish, garnish it with slices of lemon, pour over it a little rich gravy, and serve with a sauceboatful of melted butter. Brisotin of Veal. Cut up six pieces of lean veal about one-fourth of an inch in thickness and six inches in length. Flatten them with a cutlet bat and season with a small quantity each of salt and pepper. Lard the centers, using a small larding-needle, with strips of fat pork or bacon. Cover with any kind of forcemeat, roll them up and tie with a string. Put them into a deep sautcpan with a small quantity of fat, one sliced car- rot and one medium-sized onion. Cover the whole with a piece of buttered paper, set it on fire, allow it to take on a good golden color for about five minutes. Moisten with one-half pint of white broth, remove the sautcpan to the oven and cook slowly for twenty minutes, basting occasionally. Turn the whole carefully out onto a dish, and serve it at once. Brisotin of Veal, Nantaise. The same as for Brisotin of Veal, placing half a dozen stuffed lettuce heads around the dish for a garnish and pouring over one gill of hot Madeira sauce. Broiled Veal, Venetian. Procure some rather thick and large slices of veal and lay them on a dish with some chopped mushrooms and shallots, some thyme, bavleaf and chopped parsley. Dredge them over with salt and pepper and baste them with a few tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Allow the slices to steep in this marinade for an hour or so, turning them now and then so that they will be equally flavored. Strew them over with finely grated breadcrumbs, place them side by side on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire. When done on one side, turn and baste them with the remainder of the marinade. When cooked, arrange the slices of veal on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of an orange over, and serve. Cannelon of Veal. Mince fine two pounds or so of cold roasted veal and one pound of ham; mix well among it one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of powdered mace, one bare teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon peel and salt and pepper to taste. Then stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs, one-fourth pint of good gravy and four ounces of sifted breadcrumbs; shape this into a rather short thick roll with the 232 VEAL. floured hands. Flour the inside and put it in a well-greased bakingpan; place a cover on it and place it in the oven until it is smoking hot; then remove the cover from the tin and let the cannelon brown; draw it to the door of the oven and brush it over with the beaten white of egg; push it in again and shut the door for a minute to let it glaze. Place the cannelon carefullv on a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried potato croquettes and quarters of lemon, pour over a rich brown gravy, and serve. Broiled Veal Chops. Cut off a number of chops, trim off the fat, and beat them till quite tender. Put them into a pan, pour over enough boiling water to cover, place the lid on, and stand the pan at the side of the fire where the chops can be allowed to simmer gently until done. When about three-fourths cooked, sprinkle over a small quantity each of pepper and salt. When done, remove them from the pan, dry them in a cloth, spread a little butter over them, brush them over with egg, and then sprinkle over some bread or cracker crumbs. Place them on a baking-sheet in the oven, and when they are nicely browned arrange them on a dish round a pile of mashed potatoes, and serve. Fried Veal Chops. Remove all the bones and sinews from the chops, mince the meat very fine and mix with it two-thirds of its quantity of finely-chopped streaky bacon ; season the mixture to taste with salt, pepper and spices. Cut some pieces of caul in the shape of chops, spread the minced mixture over them, and bury a bone in every one so that the end only will be seen. Strew some grated breadcrumbs and a few sweet herbs over the chops. Melt a large lump of butter in a flat stewpan, put in the chops and fry them. When cooked and nicely browned, drain and place them on a hot dish ; garnish with fried parsley, and serve at once. Chump of Veal, Bourgeoise Style. Lard a chump of veal with strips of bacon. Butter the interior of a stewpan, put in some slices of bacon and trimmings of veal, place the chump over them and add three or four leeks, onions, carrots, a few sprigs of parsley, and one-half pint of stock. Place the cover on the stewpan with some live embers on it, and braise the contents over a slow fire. When cooked drain the veal and glaze it. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve into another saucepan, boil it quickly until reduced to a glaze, then pour in one-half teacupful of Spanish sauce ; boil, pour it over the veal, and serve. White wine and gravy colored with a small quantity of browning may be used in place of the Spanish sauce if desired. A lump of butter should be dissolved in the sauce before it is poured over the veal. VEAL. '-33 Roasted Chump of Veal. Place a chump of veal in a deep dish, sprinkle some mixed herbs, pepper and salt over, cover it with white wine and allow it to soak for two days. At the end of that time lard the veal with some strips of bacon and roast it in a brisk oven. Mean- while prepare some ravigote sauce. When cooked place the chump of veal on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Veal Collops. Pare and cut two pounds of veal (taken, if possible, from the hip), into half a dozen thick slices, season them with one pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper, place them in a sautepan on a very hot fire with one ounce of butter and brown them for five minutes on each side. Place them on a hot dish, and serve with any desired sauce or garnish. Veal Collops, Provincial. These are prepared as for veal collops, replacing the butter with the same quantity of oil. Season well and when browned on both sides add a finely-chopped onion or a shallot. Let color lightly and moisten with one gill of broth. Add two tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce, three chopped cepes or mushrooms, two crushed cloves of garlic and one teaspoonful of parsley. Boil once, and serve with six croutons of fried bread for a garnish. Veal Collops with Stuffed Peppers. Proceed in the same way as for veal collops, adding the juice of half a medium- sized lemon and one gill of hot Madeira sauce. Cook for three minutes longer, and decorate the dish with half a dozen stuffed green peppers three minutes prior to serv- ing it. Cream of Veal. Cut the most tender part of a fillet of veal into small pieces, place them in a mortar with an equal quantity of bread that has been soaked in boiling milk, and pound together. Stir into the above mixture the yolk of one egg, the whites of two, and enough cream to bring it to a stiff batter; season with salt and pepper to taste. Butter a plain mould, ornament the insides with slices of truffles, and pour in the above mixture. Stand the mould in a saucepan with boiling water to three-fourths its height, and allow it to steam for an hour. At the end of that time turn the cream out of the mould onto a hot dish, pour some perigueux sauce round, and serve. Veal Croquettes. Take some cold veal, cut off the fat and skin, and chop the veal up very fine, seasoning with onion juice, celery salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, salt and pepper 234 VEAL. Oysters parboiled and drained may be used, taking half the bulk of them to the quantity of meat. Mix together well and moisten with well-beaten egg and white sauce. Make the paste into the shape of balls, and dip them first into bread or cracker crumbs, then in egg, and then in crumbs again; plunge them into a fryingpan of boiling fat, and fry until done and of a light brown color. Curried Veal, Indian Style. Cut into pieces two pounds of any kind of lean raw veal, place the pieces in a saucepan, cover with warm water, season with two pinches of salt and one pinch of pepper and add a garnished bouquet and half a dozen small onions; cook the whole for twenty-five minutes. Prepare one gill of white roux in a saucepan, moisten it with the liquor from the veal, stir it well and add one teaspoonful of moistened curry powder and three raw yolks of eggs, beating them up as they are put in. Place the veal on a hot dish, strain the roux over it immediately, as it must not cook again, garnish with a border of plain boiled rice, and serve. Cushion of Veal, Bordelaise. Braise a cushion of veal, and when tender drain it and cut into moderately thick- slices; place them on a dish and cover them over; wash, drain and slice twenty mush- rooms; put a chopped onion into a deep fryingpan with a lump of butter and fry for a few minutes without browning, then put in the mushrooms, season to taste with salt and pepper, and fry them quickly until the moisture has in part evaporated. Sprinkle a little flour over the mushrooms, one teacupful of finely-chopped parsley, and pour in one teacupful of gravy; stir the sauce and boil it quickly for ten minutes; place a layer of the stew on a dish and then a layer of the meat, another layer of the stew, and so on until all is used, finishing with a layer of the stew. Cover the above mix- ture with breadcrumbs, place a few bits of butter on the top and put it in a quick- oven for twenty minutes, basting occasionally with the butter. When cooked drain the butter off the dish, pour a small quantity of rich gravy round it, and serve. Cushion of Veal, Duchess. Trim a large white cushion of veal and stud it with square fillets of raw truffles, dust over them a small quantity of salt, cover the studded part of the meat with thin slices of bacon, and truss it. Place some trimmings of bacon in a stewpan, put in the meat, pour some clarified butter over and braise for two hours in a moderate oven, basting it occasionally with the drippings in the pan. Cut some cooked potatoes into an oblong shape, like large dominoes, and glaze them. Garnish the dish on which the veal has been placed with the potatoes, and serve with a sauceboatful of brown sauce that has been reduced with white wine and essence of truffles. VEAL. 235 Veal Cutlets. Trim some thinly-cut veal cutlets to a nice shape, flatten them with a cutlet bat, and sprinkle them over with salt and pepper. Mince together in equal quantities some pieces of veal and fat bacon, mix them with one-third of their bulk of finely- grated breadcrumbs, one-half tablespoonful of finely-minced shallot, and a moderate quantity of powdered sweet herbs ; bind the mixture with beaten egg, and, when well mixed, cover the cutlets completely with it, smoothing it over with the flat blade of a knife. Roll the cutlets in beaten eggs and breadcrumbs, and fry them until well browned in boiling lard. Drain, place them on a hot dish, pour a well-flavored rich brown gravy over, garnish with slices of lemon, and serve. Baked Veal Cutlets with Sweet Herbs. Put some chopped mushrooms, sweet herbs, winter savorv and shallots, with two ounces of butter and some salt and pepper into a stewpan, and stir them over the fire until well mixed and hot. Trim the cutlets nicely, spread over them some of the mixture, brush over with beaten egg, and coat them well with grated breadcrumbs. Place the cutlets on a baking-dish and bake them. Pour one breakfast cupful of white wine and a small quantity of cullis into the saucepan with the remainder of the herbs, and boil ; skim the sauce. When cooked, place the cutlets on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve. Braised Larded Veal Cutlets with String Beans. Trim some small veal cutlets, keeping the bone very short, and lard them all on the same side with bacon. Place the cutlets in a stewpan with some minced vege- tables, and clear stock, and braise them. When cooked glaze the cutlets. Boil some string beans in salted water until tender, then drain, chop them finclv, and mix a little butter in with them. Place a flat mound of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, pile the beans in the center, lean the cutlet against the beans, and serve with a sauceboatful of gravy. Broiled Veal Cutlets. Cut half a dozen veal cutlets from a fine piece of loin of the white veal, pare and flatten them slightly, place them on a dish and season with one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper and one tablespoonful of sweet oil. Turn the cutlets over a number of times to have them well covered, place them on a broiler over a clear fire and cook them for eight minutes on both sides. Remove them from the fire, ar- range them on a hot dish, spread over a small quantity of maitre d'hotel butter, and serve as soon as possible. 236 VEAL. Broiled Veal Cutlets with Colbert Sauce. Trim a few veal cutlets, beat them lightly with a cutlet-bat, dust over with salt and pepper and roll them in melted butter and breadcrumbs; broil them on both sides over a clear fire; dish them in a circular form round a puree of string beans and pour over some colbert sauce, which is made by mixing one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a little grated nutmeg with one breakfast cupful of butter. Pour into a stew pan one breakfast cupful of melted meat glaze and let it boil; then move it to the side of the fire and add by degrees the prepared butter alternately with the juice of three lemons; stir quickly over the fire, but do not let it boil. When the sauce has thickened remove it from the fire and add a wineglassful of cold water. Broiled Veal Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. Beat some cutlets with the flat side of a chopper, trim, season them with salt and pepper, and arrange them on a gridiron. Broil the cutlets over a clear fire, turning and basting them with butter. When cooked, brush the cutlets over with a paste brush dipped in melted glaze, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of tomato sauce. Curried Veal Cutlets. The veal cutlets should be prepared as for collops by cutting them into shape, dipping them into the yolks of eggs and covering with grated breadcrumbs mixed with two tablespoonfuls of curry powder and one tablespoonful of salt. Fry them in butter and serve with a curry sauce made as follows: Take three equal parts of curry powder, butter and flour, work them into a paste, turn it into the pan from which the cutlets have been removed, moisten with one breakfast cupful of water, add a seasoning of. cayenne and salt and allow it to thicken before using. Veal Cutlets, Dauphin. Trim half a dozen cutlets of veal on one side only, lard them with veal and bacon chopped fine and braise them. Reduce the liquor in which they were stewed, then glaze the cutlets with it, and serve cither with stewed endives or sorrel. Veal Cutlets, Financiere. Cut a few cutlets from a neck of veal, shorten the rib bones and cut off the chine bones. Beat the cutlets lightly with a cutlet bat, stud them all over the same side in a fancy pattern with square fillets of truffles and sprinkle some salt and pepper over. Put some finely-chopped carrots and onions in a stewpan, then the cutlets, placing them side by side, and cover them with a clear broth. Boil the liquor until it is reduced to one-third of its original quantity, then move the stewpan to the side VEAL. 237 of the fire and braise the cutlets slowly for about forty-five minutes, basting them frequently. When cooked remove the meat from the fire and leave them in their cooking stock until nearly cold. Trim the cutlets neatly, place them in another stewpan with the cooking stock and heat them slowly in the oven. Cover the bottom of a hot dish with financiere sauce, place some ruffles around the bones of the cutlets, lay them on the dish, and serve. Veal Forcemeat Cutlets. Chop fine two pounds of lean veal, cut from the hip if possible, place the meat in a bowl with two ounces of chopped raw veal suet, season with a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper and one-third of a pinch of nutmeg; add one-half breakfast cupful of good cream, one chopped shallot and two raw eggs, well mixed together. Roll the mass out to a thickness of one-half inch, cut some cutlets with any kind of cutlet- cutter, dust over with breadcrumbs and fry in a pan with two ounces of clarified but- ter for four minutes on each side. Serve with any kind of sauce. Fried Veal Cutlets with Tomatoes. Cut about two pounds of veal cutlets from the leg into small slices, season them with pepper and salt, roll them in cracker-dust, then dip them in beaten eggs and again in cracker-dust. Have in readiness on the fire a fryingpan containing smoking fat one-half an inch in depth; put the veal into the hot fat and fry brown on both sides. While the veal is frying wipe half a dozen large, firm tomatoes with a damp cloth, slice them about one-half an inch thick, roll them in flour, season with pepper and salt and fry until brown in the pan with the veal. Serve the veal on a dish, with the tomatoes laid neatly round in a circle. The veal cutlets maybe dipped in bread- crumbs and fried, and served with the tomatoes. Veal Cutlets in Papers. Pare neatly half a dozen veal cutlets, put them into a sautepan with one ounce of butter and season with one tablcspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of white pepper. Add half of a chopped onion and brown slightly; add four finely-chopped mushrooms and cook for eight minutes; then pour in a gill of Spanish sauce and cook for four minutes longer. Remove, drain the cutlets and stand them one side to cool. Add to the gravy one teaspoonful of chopped parsley and two tablespoonfuls of bread- crumbs. Have in readiness six pieces of oiled white paper cut into the shape of hearts, place a thin slice of cooked ham on one side of the paper, pour over the ham a small quantity of the stock, and on top of it place a cutlet and another layer of the stock, and over all a thin slice of cooked ham. Cover with the second part of the paper, and close it by folding the two edges firmly together. Bake for a little time — 238 VEAL. at the most not more than five minutes — in rather a moderate oven, and serve without delav. Veal Cutlets in Surprise. Any underdone pieces of veal may be used, trimming them to a nice shape. Mix with some finely-grated breadcrumbs half their quantity of mixed bacon, mod- erate quantities of chopped parsley and shallot, salt and pepper to taste and a little grated nutmeg. Bind the mixture with the beaten yolk of egg, spread a layer of it over one side of each cutlet, and wrap each in a slice of fat bacon, and then in a sheet of oiled paper, folding it well round the edges. Place a lump of butter in a flat stew- pan over the fire ; when blue smoke rises put in the cutlets, and fry them from five to ten minutes. When cooked drain the cutlets, place them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve. Veal Cutlets, Lyonese. Trim the cutlets and dust them on both sides with salt and pepper. Place a lump of lard in a stewpan to melt ; then put in the cutlets, and fry them over a brisk fire until done on either side. Drain the fat out of the stewpan, pour over the cutlets one-half teacupful of rich broth, and boil it quickly until reduced to a glaze ; then turn the cutlets, pour in the same quantity of broth as before, and reduce that. When finished, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish. Pour into the stewpan in which they were cooked one-half pint of brown sauce and one teacupful of Madeira wine, and boil it; then add one teacupful of chopped gherkins, two or three tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley and a small piece of butter. When the butter has dissolved pour the sauce over the veal, and serve it. Veal Cutlets, Maintenon. Prepare the cutlets in the usual way, and broil them ; but just before they are done take them out to drain and let them cool. Put some bacon cut in the shape of hearts on either side of the cutlets, wrap them round with paper dipped in oil, and broil them on both sides over a clear fire. Veal Cutlets, Marechal. Remove the skin and fat from about two ounces of mutton, chop the lean, put it in a mortar, pound it well, and then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Mix with one- half tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and enough cream to bind it, not making it too liquid, and season it with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Trim neatly four or five veal cutlets, dip them in well-beaten egg, and then roll them in breadcrumbs that have been well-seasoned with salt and pepper. The cutlets should be well-covered on both sides with the crumbs. Put some clarified tat into a VEAL. i 3 q deep fryingpan and place it over the fire until a column of blue smoke arises, then put in the cutlets and fry them for nearly ten minutes; turn them when browned on one side and brown the other. When fried, drain the cutlets, spread over each a layer of veal mixture, place them side by side in a shallow tin dish, strew a small quantity of finely chopped mushrooms over them, sprinkle very lightly with salt and pepper, and bake them for ten minutes in a moderate oven. When cooked, arrange the cutlets on a hot dish over which has been spread an ornamental dish-paper, garnish them with neat sprigs of parsley, and serve. Veal Cutlets, Milanese. Trim the cutlets neatly to about the same size. Boil two ounces of macaroni in salted water; when tender, drain it and stir in one ounce of butter, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and one tcacupful of tomato sauce. Mix one teacupful of finely grated breadcrumbs with one tcacupful of grated Parmesan cheese, and season well with salt and pepper. Roll the cutlets in warmed butter, and then in the bread- crumbs, and leave them for a few minutes; then dip them in beaten egg and again in the mixture. Place a large lump of dripping or lard in a flat stewpan and place it over the fire; when blue smoke rises, put in the cutlets and fry them until nicely and equally browned. Move the macaroni away from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Pile this in the center of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets around it, garnish it with fried parsley, and serve. Veal Cutlets, Pcrigueux Trim some veal cutlets a little more than an inch in thickness, keeping the bones short, and lard them through with raw truffles cut in square fillets. Line the bottom of a flat stewpan with sliced vegetables and lav the cutlets on them, add veal broth to half their height and a bunch of herbs and parsley, and reduce- the broth to half its original quantity; then cover the cutlets with buttered paper, move them to the side of the fire, and simmer slowly, adding a little more broth now and then. When done, drain the cutlets and place them on a circle of forcemeat poached in the dish, having in the center a small bread crustadc filled with cooked truffles. Add the trimmings of the truffles to the liquor that the cutlets were cooked in, reduce, skim off the fat, thicken with a little brown sauce, strain it, pour some of it over the cutlets, and serve the balance in a sauceboat. Veal Cutlets, Provincial Style. Trim the cutlets, season them with salt and pepper, flour over, place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry. When the meat has set drain the fat from the stewpan and pour in some broth to half the height of the cutlets. When the liquor boils move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and keep it simmering until the 2 4 o VEAL. cutlets arc done. Chop fine six large white onions, place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them over a moderate fire until nicely browned. Dredge a little flour, pepper and salt over the onions, pour in one-half pint of wine and gravy mixed in equal quantities, and boil them for ten minutes. When cooked, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish, turn the minced onions and gravy in the center, sprinkle over a little parsley and cayenne pepper, and serve. Veal Cutlets Sauted. Trim five or six veal cutlets, put them in a saucepan with a little stock, and boil them gently until they are done; then drain, place them on a plate, put another plate on top, with a weight on that, and leave them until cold. Boil some brown sauce with trimmings of truffles until well reduced, then dip in the cutlets and coat them thicklv all over; sprinkle them with flour on both sides, brush over with beaten egg, cover thickly with finely grated breadcrumbs, and last of all brush over with clarified butter. Place the cutlets in a sautepan with a little butter, and saute them until lightly browned. Drain the cutlets, place them on a hot dish, garnish them with fried parslev, and serve with a sauceboatful of white sauce. Veal Cutlets, Spanish Style. Place two or three thin slices of ham in the bottom of a saucepan, also a bunch of parslev, half a bay leaf and a little thyme. Trim some veal cutlets, season them with pepper and salt, lay them on top of the ham and butter and fry them over a moderate fire. Drain the fat off and pour on one-half teacupful of Spanish sauce and one tablespoonful of broth. Dish the cutlets, strain the sauce, pour it over them, and serve. Veal Cutlets, St. Cloud Style. Lard six veal cutlets with two small truffles, one ounce of cooked beef tongue, and one ounce of larding pork, all cut in the same fashion. Place them in a saute- pan with a pinch of salt, one sliced onion and one sliced carrot, and allow them to brown for ten minutes, taking care to keep the lid on the pan. Moisten with one- half pint of broth, and place them in the oven to finish cooking for at least fifteen minutes. Serve with a hot salpicon sauce poured over the dish, and the chops placed on the top. Calf's Ears, Financiere Style. Cut off the ears, blanch and place in a saucepan with .1 little stock or water, ami boil until quite tender. In the meantime cut a crouton of bread about two inches square at the base, and three inches high, fry in lard and put in the center of a dish. Take out the ears, dry them on a cloth, and stand them on the dish, leaning them against the bread ; put a heap of financiere garnishing in the spaces between the ens, VEAL. 241 with a truffle and a cockscomb added. Put four cockscombs on the top of the bread, and a large truffle on top of them, and serve with some financiere sauce separate in a boat. Fried Calf's Ears with Tomato Sauce. Boil eight cars, and let them cool in the liquor, drain, wipe dry, and cut up into quarters. Place them in a basin and dust over with chopped parsley, salt and pepper; flour them separately, dip into well-beaten egg, and then into sifted bread- crumbs. Put them into a fryingpan with plenty of boiling lard, putting in a few at a time, and fry them for about ten minutes. Then take them out, drain, pile on a dish, pour around tomato sauce, and serve. Calf's Feet as Mock Terrapin. Boil eight feet till tender; remove the meat from the bone and put in a stew- pan with one-half pint of the liquor in which they were boiled and three tablespoon- fuls of butter. Mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs with one teaspoonful ol dry mustard and a small pinch of cayenne, adding salt to the taste. Mix the egg in with the meat and stir over the fire for fifteen minutes and add two wine-glassfuls ol white wine. Dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Boiled Calf's Feet. Split each of three feet into halves and, after removing the large bones, put them to soak in fresh water for one hour. Wash thoroughly, drain and place them in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour and three or four quarts of water. Stir well; add one gill of vinegar, one onion, one carrot (all cut into shreds'), twelve whole peppers, a handful of salt and a bunch of garnished parsley, and cook briskly for an hour and a half. Drain thoroughly, and serve with any kind of sauce. Fricassee of Call's F'eet. Soak four calf's feet for three hours in cold water; allow them to simmer in equal proportions of milk and water until they are sufficiently tender to remove the soft part from the bones, dip them in the yolk of an egg, spread fine breadcrumbs over them, season with pepper and salt, and fry to a light brown in butter. Serve with white sauce. Calf's Feet Fritters. Cut into thick slices some boiled calf's feet, dip them into beaten egg, roll them in breadcrumbs and fry in boiling fat to a light brown. Frv some slices of onions, place them in the center of a hot dish, arrange the pieces of feet around, and serve. or they may be garnished with fried parslev. 2 4 2 VEAL. Grilled Calf's Feet. Remove all the bones from a blanched calf's foot, cut the flesh into rather small pieces, egg and breadcrumb them and grill until they are of a light brown, then serve. Stewed Calf's Feet. Put a well-cleaned calf's foot into a saucepan with four onions, two or three cloves, one bayleaf, pepper and salt and stew all gently until done. Then remove all the meat from the bones, cut it into small pieces, egg and breadcrumb them and fry them in butter to a light brown. Serve the foot with a puree of tomatoes or mushrooms. Calf's Feet with Piquant Sauce. The same as for boiled calf's feet, using one-half pint of piquant sauce to pour over. Calf's Feet with Poulette Sauce. Same as boiled calf's feet, adding one-half pint of poulette sauce, made as fol- lows : Put one pint of hot German sauce into a saucepan with one ounce of fresh butter, add the juice of one-half of a medium-sized lemon, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Heat thoroughly on a hot stove until well melted and mixed, but do not allow it to boil. Keep the sauce warm, and serve poured over the calf's feet on a dish. Braised Fillet of Veal. Choose a nice piece of fillet of veal, any part can be used ; put a good sized lump of butter in a saucepan to melt ; put in the veal and brown it on both sides. Pour clear broth or water over the veal, place the cover on, and steam over a clear fire, basting occasionally with its own liquor. Peel and slice a carrot and onion, and put them into a saucepan with a small quantity each of lemon peel, mace and thyme; pour in one-half pint of water and boil for twenty minutes. Strain the seasoned water over the veal, and continue cooking it. When the meat is tender, drain, place it on a hot dish and garnish with slices of lemon and crisped slices of bacon. Skim the fat off the cooking Liquor, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and serve with the meat in a sauce tureen. Roasted Fillets of Veal with Fine Herbs. Lard the fillets with thin strips of bacon, place them in a deep dish with some finely-chopped mushrooms, shallots, chives, parsley, fennel, laurel leaves and thyme; sprinkle a small quantity of salt, pepper and grated nutmeg over them, cover them with olive oil and let soak tor three hours. Drain the oil from the fillets, cover them with tile mixed herbs, wrap them in thickl v-buttcrcd sheets of paper, fastening them VEAL. 243 securely to keep the herbs in, and roast them in a good hot oven. When cooked take the paper off the fillets and scrape off the herbs. Put them in a saucepan with some gravy, a little lemon-juice and a lump of butter and boil it. Beat the volk of an egg with a small piece of warmed butter, rub the fillets in this and then in grated breadcrumbs, giving them a good coating and brown them in a quick oven. When cooked, place the fillets on a folded napkin on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley, and serve them with sauce in a sauceboat. Fillet of Veal with Brain Fritters. Cut off a fillet from a leg of veal and rub it well over with the juice of a large mushroom, extracted by breaking it up and sprinkling salt over. If a little grated orange-peel and cayenne are added it will be improved. Dip the fillet in flour, brush over with egg, plunge it into boiling fat and fry it, or wrap it in oiled paper and grill it o\ era clear fire. Cut a calf's brain into equal-sized pieces, blanch and stew in stock for about fifteen minutes. Prepare a rather thick batter with the yolk of an egg, two ounces of flour, one-half tablespoonful of olive oil and warm butter; when ready, beat in the white of an egg whipped to a froth. Drain the pieces of brain, dip them into the batter, plunge into boiling fat, fry and drain them. Place the fillet on a dish, arrange the brain fritters and some fried slices of potato round, also sprigs of fried parsley, and serve with thick brown sauce in a sauceboat. Veal Fricadclles. Chop fine two pounds or more of lean veal and about three ounces of lean ham. Put one breakfast cupful of breadcrumbs in a saucepan with one-half pint of milk and stir it over the fire until cooked to a smooth paste, taking care that it does not burn at the bottom. Mix the bread with the chopped veal and ham, season the mixture with pepper, salt and the juice of half a lemon, and work it in with one- fourth pound of butter. When well mixed divide the mixture into small equal-sized portions, roll them into the balls, then dip them in beaten egg. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a fryingpan and when hot put in the balls and fry them until lightly browned. Great care must be taken not to burn them. Take the balls out of the fryingpan and stir into the butter three tablespoonfuls of flour. When a dark brown turn the flour into the saucepan, pour in by degrees one and one-half pints of stock, and when boiling put in the balls. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire and allow the contents to simmer slowly for an hour. Turn the fricadelles and gravy on to a hot dish garnished with slices of lemon or sippets of toast and croutons of fried bread, and serve. ' Fricandeau of Veal. Fricandcau of veal is properly made from the round muscle which is found on the innerside of the leg of veal, and is called the kernel, or cushion. To obtain it the 244 VEAL. rest of the leg must be used for dishes which do not require special cuts. A thick- cutlet is sometimes used as a fricandeau. Use a medium sized larding-needle and strips of fat salt pork cut less than a fourth of an inch square and two inches long; put the strips of pork or lardoons one by one into the split end of the needle and take a succession of stitches about one-fourth of an inch in length and depth in the upper surface of the veal in a line down the center, then make other lines of lardoons on both sides of the middle line, allowing the ends of the lardoons to come between each other, until the upper surface of the veal is thickly larded. After this is done it may be braised or baked. The fricandeau can be baked on a bed of vegetables, which may afterwards be rubbed through a sieve with a masher and form the basis of a brown gravv, or it may be garnished after cooking with green peas and spinach, or served with brown mushroom sauce. A larded fricandeau is a choice dish, even when it is made from a thick cutlet, if garnished with button mushrooms and truffles. When it is not desirable to use lardoons of pork, bacon strips of cold boiled tongue may replace them, or beef fat, if it be found sufficiently tough to permit it to be pulled through the rather dense fiber of uncooked meat. In larding veal the udder fat makes very passable lardoons. This fat is rather more substantial than that which lies about the kidneys, and which would crumble if drawn into uncooked meat. If the thin, fat membrane that is sometimes spread over spring lamb is cut into small squares it may be used in place of pork. Fricandeau of Veal with Puree of Sorrel. Cut a slice weighing about three pounds from a leg of veal, remove the sinews and lard the surface with fat bacon or pork, using a medium-sized larding-needle. Place it in a sautepan in which there arc already pieces of pork skin, one sliced onion, one sliced carrot and a garnished bouquet. Season with one tablespoonful of salt, cover with buttered paper and let it color slightly for five minutes on the stove. Then moisten with one-half pint of white broth and cook for an hour. Serve with one-half pint of puree of sorrel on the dish, placing the veal on top. Grenadins of Veal, Chipolata. The same as for grenadins of veal with puree of green peas, only adding one pint of hot chipolata garnishing instead of the peas. Grenadins of Veal with Puree of Green Peas. Cut into half a dozen pieces two pounds of lean veal taken from the leg. Remove the sinews and lard the veal on one side, using a rather coarse needle for the purpose. Lay the pieces on a sautepan with one onion, one carrot and some scraps of pork, and let them brown together for six minutes. Season with one tablespoon- ful of salt, and moisten with one gill of white broth. Place the pan in the oven, VEAL. 245 covering it with a piece of buttered paper ; at the end of thirty minutes, or when the contents arc of a good color, remove it, and serve with one-half pint of hot puree of peas, spread on a dish, the grenadins on top, and the gravy strained and poured over all. Veal Ham. Trim a leg of veal to the shape of a ham. Mix well together one pint of bay salt, one pound of common salt, one or two ounces of saltpeter, one ounce of powdered cinnamon and one ounce of juniper berries, also powdered. Rub the meat well with this mixture, and place it on a tray with the skin downwards. Baste it well every day for about two weeks. At the end of that time hang the meat over wood smoke for a fortnight. Afterwards boil or partially boil, and then roast it. Haricot of Veal. Select four or five pounds of the best end of a neck of veal, cut or chop the bones short but do not cut up the veal, put it into a stewpan, cover it with brown gravy and let it simmer. Stew in another saucepan in some good stock six small cucumbers peeled and sliced, two cabbage lettuces well washed and cut in quarters, and one pint of green peas. When these are cooked and the veal nearly done put them into the stewpan with the veal and let all simmer together for ten minutes. Place the veal on a hot dish, arrange the eight pieces of lettuce and a few forcemeat balls round it, pour the gravy and the rest of the vegetables over, and serve. Hashed Veal. The remains of cold veal can be used and it is better if rather underdone. Cut the meat into thin slices, trimming off all the skin and gristle; slice a couple of onions and shallots, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, dredge them over lightly with flour and toss over the fire until they begin to brown. Pour in about three- fourths of a pint of clear broth, add a bunch of sweet herbs and boil gently for ten or fifteen minutes. PI. ice the slices of veal in a clean stewpan, strain the gravy over them, put in one tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the grated peel of half of a small lemon and a little grated nutmeg; season the whole with salt and pepper to taste. Let the hash simmer for five minutes close to the fire. Turn it out onto a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread, and serve. Boiled CalPs Head. Plunge a fine, fresh, white calf's head into hot water, leaving it for one minute, lift it out and sharply rub it all over with a rough towel in order to remove all remain- ing hairs. Carefully cut the flesh, beginning at the center of the head, right down to the nostrils. Then, with a very sharp knife, bone it from the top to the base on both sides. Place in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of flour, one gill of vinegar, one 246 VEAL. medium-sized, well cleaned and sliced carrot, one sound peeled onion, eighteen or twenty whole peppers and two or three pinches of salt. Pour in very gradually two quarts of cold water, briskly stirring until all is added. Cut up half of the head into six equal pieces, add them to the broth, as also the other whole half, and let all cook together over a moderate fire for an hour and a half. Lift up the pieces and the half head and place the six pieces on a dry napkin. Have ready a hot dish with a folded napkin oyer it, tastefully dress the six pieces on it, decorate with parsley or greens, and serve with any desired sauce. Place the remaining half head in a stone jar, strain the broth over it and preserve it in a cool place for any purpose desired. Boiled Calf's Head with Vinaigrette Sauce. Proceed the same as for boiled calf's head, laying a folded napkin on the dish and fixing thereon the half of the head. Decorate with parsley leaves, and serve with one pint of vinaigrette sauce in a sauceboat. Braised Calf's Head. Clean and bone the head. Prepare a sufficient quantity of finely-chopped lean veal and fat bacon to stuff it. Season the stuffing with sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and bind it with the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stuff the head, sew it up securely to prevent the stuffing from oozing out and wrap it in a cloth. Line a braising pan with slices of veal and bacon; also a few slices of carrots; put in the head with a bunch of thyme and parsley and two bay leaves; season to taste with spice, and pour in one- pint of broth and one-half pint of white wine. Stew the head for four hours. When cooked take it out of the cloth, put it on a hot dish and garnish with a financierc stew. Strain the cooking liquor of the head into a small clean stewpan, mix a wineglassful of Madeira wine with it; boil it a few minutes, then pour it over the head, and serve. Calfs Head, Financiere. For the preparation of this neat dish all the principal parts are prepared as for a stew — the ears arc scalded and stuffed, the brains formed into cakes. The pieces of meat are cut into large discs and arranged round a forcemeat loaf made of the trim- mings, and around this again, either on the same dish or upon one below it, the ears and brain-cakes arc arranged with blanched olives and button mushrooms. Skewers garnished with cockscombs, truffles and various other things, surmount the whole. Hashed Calf's Head. Cut any desirable quantity of cold boiled calf's head into pieces about the si/.e of a small apple. Put two or three ounces of butter into a saucepan to melt, mix in three tablespoonfuls of flour, and add one or two breakfast cupfuls of veal stock. When thoroughly incorporated add a few small mushrooms, salt and pepper to suit VEAL. 247 the taste, and boil well for ten minutes or so. Remove the saucepan to the side of the fire, add the hashed meat and allow it to get hot without boiling. Remove the pan from the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs beaten up with the juice of a lemon and strained, and also add a little chopped parsley or tarragon. Turn the hash out onto a dish, and serve. Calf's Head in Tortue. Cut the meat of half a cold-boiled calf's head into small pieces. Mix one wine- glassful of sherry with one-half pint of well reduced stock, add to this the yolks of six hard boiled eggs and the whites cut into small pieces, three chopped gherkins, six quenelles of veal forcemeat, the pieces of head and a little cayenne pepper. Place the saucepan over the fire till the contents are hot. Pile the pieces of head in the middle of a hot dish, pour the sauce and eggs round it, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Calf's Head, Royal Style. This is considered by all epicures the very best of calf's head dishes. In the center of a silver dish is set a forcemeat loaf made from the fragments of the heads and necks used, scraps of veal, tongue and other things. About this are laid, over- lapping each other, discs of the meat off the head, and between these alternately a blanched cockscomb and three button mushrooms, diminishing in size upwards The ears scored and stuffed with a truffle in each, are placed on the loaf with truffles between them, and fried bread wedge-shaped croutons are ranged round the loaf, with truffles set on the base of every crouton. A lew sprigs of fried parslcv are some- times added, and the whole is served with royal sauce. Stewed Calf's Head. After boning a calf's head, cut out the tongue and brains, and steep them with the meat in cold water for a few hours. Chop fine one-half pound of lean veal and one pound of beef suet and mix with them one breakfast cupful of grated bread- crumbs, the grated peel of one lemon, two or three tablcspoonfuls of powdered herbs, and pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg in suitable quantities. Mix these ingredients well and bind them together with the beaten yolks of four or five eggs. Wash the head, dry it on a cloth, stuff it with some of the forcemeat and bind it round secureh with tape. Place the head in a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two quarts of 1 1< ai gravy, and one-half pint of white wine. Put the saucepan over the fire until the liquor boils, then move it to the side, cover it tightly, and keep the contents sim- mering until the head is tender. Boil the tongue in a small quantity of water, and, when cooked, drain and cut into thin slices. Chop the brains with a small quantity of parsley, dredge them with about one tablespoonful of flour, and season with finely - minced lemon-peel, salt, pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg; then mix in two well-beaten eggs.. Shape the remainder of the forcemeat into small balls, put a 24 8 VEAL. large lump of dripping into a fryingpan, make it hot, and fry the forcmcat balls in it, also the brain mixture which should be dropped in with a spoon in small quantities. When fried drain the forcemeat balls and brain cakes on a wire sieve in front of a clear fire. When the head is cooked, remove the tapes and place it on a hot dish, strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan with one ounce of butter that has been mixed with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it over the fire until thickened. More salt and pepper may now be added if required. .Make the slices of tongue hot in the gravy, then pour it over the calf's head; garnish with slices of lemon the forcemeat balls and brain cakes, and serve while it is very hot. If there is too much liquor to go on the dish with the head, serve the remainder in a sauceboat. Veal in the Saucepan. Cut four pounds of veal about three inches thick off the fillet, roll it up, bind it round with tape, rub it over with flour, put it in a stewpan with a small lump of butter, and fry it until nicely browned all over. Pour one-half pint of rich gravy in with the veal, season it with salt and pepper, place the lid on the stewpan, and cook the contents slowly for four hours. When done, take the veal up, place it on a hot dish, first removing the tape, and keep it hot. Boil the cooking liquor quickly until stifflv reduced, then pour it over the meat and serve. Veal, Italian Style. Boil about one pint of milk with an onion and a bay leaf, for fifteen minutes ; then remove the bay leaf, and pour the boiling milk over a heaping breakfast cupful of breadcrumbs. Chop fine one pound of raw veal and pound it in a mortar, mixing with it a small quantity of cold, cooked fat; then mix in the soaked crumbs, and pass the mixture through a coarse sieve. Divide it into equal portions, which mould into rolls with flour. Procure as many pieces of cloth as there are rolls, wring them out in boiling water, flour them, tie a roll in each, place them in a saucepan of boiling water, and boil from ten to fifteen minutes. When cooked, drain the rolls, remove the cloths, place them on a hot dish, pour some well-flavored brown sauce round them, and serve. Braised Kernel of Veal with Bechamel Sauce. Remove the udder and pare a cushion of veal, lard it interiorly with fillets of bacon, and season it with salt and pepper to taste. Line a bakingpan with trimmings of bacon and ham and some sliced vegetables ; put in the cushion with about one teacupful of broth, and place the cover on. Place some hot ashes on the lid, and braise it over a slow fire. Cut some mushrooms into slices, place them in a frying- pan with a lump of butter and fry until the moisture has reduced slightly. Season the mushrooms with pepper and salt, put them in one pint of reduced bechamel VEAL. 249 sauce, and boil them for two or three minutes, then move them to the side. When the veal is done, remove it from the braisingpan and cut it up into thin slices. Line the bottom of a deep dish with the mushroom mixture, then arrange the slices of meat on it, putting them into shape again, alternating each layer with a small quantity of the mushroom mixture. Place the dish in the oven until the surface of its contents is nicely colored, then remove it, garnish with croquettes of potatoes, and serve. Kernel of Veal in Ballotines. Lard a cushion of veal with strips of bacon that have been well-seasoned with mixed spices, finely-chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaves, shallot, salt and pepper. Melt about one-half pound of butter in a stewpan, dredge the veal over with salt and pepper, put it in and stew over a slow fire. In fortv-five minutes take the veal out of the pan and put it on a dish. Mix in with the butter four tablespoonfuls of grated bacon, one teacupful of pure olive oil, and a scant tablespoonful of chopped shallots. Fry these ingredients for a few minutes, then put in a dozen chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. When well done pour the mixture over the veal and leave until cold. Afterwards cover the meat with thin slices of bacon, and wrap it with all its seasoning in a sheet of paper; fold it up securely seeing that the seasoning cannot escape, and bind it round with tape. Place it on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire for an hour or so, turning it occasionallv. Take care not to allow the paper to burn. When cooked, place the meat on a hot dish, ami serve. Kernel of Veal, Jardiniere. Beat and trim a cushion of veal, and lard it with thin strips of fat becon two inches long. Put some slices of bacon and two sliced onions into a stewpan with two bay leaves, a lew sprigs of parsley; add the cushion, pour over it one pint of white stock, cover with the lid, and place it in a moderate oven for three hours. Baste the veal occasionally with its own liquor; if the moisture becomes absorbed, pour in a little more broth or some water. Peel eighteen voting onions, the same number of carrots, and the same of young turnips; the two latter should be cut the shape of pears. Blanch the vegetables; put one ounce of butter into a sautepan with one tablespoonful of moist sugar, melt it, and then put in the onions; cover them with stock, and stew gently until tender. Cook the carrots and turnips in the same way, only in separate pans. The cooking stock of the vegetables should be reduced to a thin glaze by the time they are cooked. Peel and boil about four pounds of potatoes, drain them when soft, mash them with a small quantity of milk or butter, press them into a border mould, and stand it in a bain marie. Put the glaze from the vegetables into a sautepan with one quart of brown sauce and about one breakfast cupful of the gravy from the veal, first freeing it from fat. Boil the sauce until it becomes reduced 250 VEAL. to rather a thick glace, skimming it frequently. When cooked, glaze the kernel or cushion and brown it under a salamander. Turn the border of potatoes onto a hot dish, arrange the glazed vegetables on the border, and place the noix in the center. Pour the sauce over the vegetables, and serve. Kernel of Veal, Sauted. Trim off the skin and cut a kernel of veal into small round pieces about one and one-half inches in diameter, beat and trim them neatly. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a sautepan, set it on a good fire, and when melted put in the pieces of meat with one or two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parslev, toss until cooked, then place them on a hot dish. Pour one-half pint of well reduced veloute sauce into the pan with the butter, stir it over the fire until boiling, then move it to the side, and stir in the yolks of two eggs that have been well-beaten with two table- spoonfuls of cream. Pour the sauce over the meat, and serve. Broiled Veal Kidney, Maitre d'Hotel. Cut a veal Kidney in halves lengthwise, pound it lightly, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and dip each piece in butter that has been slightly warmed. Cover thickly the pieces of kidney with the butter and broil them over a clear fire, allowing about five minutes for each side. Place two ounces of butter in a basin, season it with chopped parslev, pepper and salt, squeeze in a little lemon juice and work it close to the fire until warm, though it must not be oiled. Put the maitre d'hotel butter on ;i dish, place the pieces of kidney over, and serve. Fried Veal Kidney. Remove the fat from several kidneys and cut them into rather thin slices; spray the slices with pepper and salt, plunge them into well-beaten egg and then into bread- crumbs and fry in a stewpan with a little butter until done. Put a mince of mush- rooms in the center of a dish, place the slices of kidney around, cover over with a few tablespoonfuls of Colbert sauce, and serve. Veal Kidney Fritter. Put four or five eggs into a basin, beat them well, add one tcacupful of cream, a little finely-shred parslev, cloves and chopped mushrooms, seasoning with pounded mace, salt and pepper. Mince fine the required quantity of kidney, together with a little of the fat adhering to it, and stir this in with the egg mixture. Putter .1 I'rv- ingpan and place it on the fire; when hot pour in the mixture and stir it until cooked, using care not to spread it out too thin. Remove the pan from the fire, brown ihe mixture with a salamander, or by holding the pan in front ot the tire, and serve im- mediately- VEAL. 251 Veal Kidney Stewed in Wine. Cut a veal kidney into several pieces, remove the sinewy parts and cut it in slices of moderate thickness. Put in a quarter of a pound of butter in a fryingpan to melt; then put in the slices of kidney, season with pepper and salt and fry them over a brisk fire until the moisture has disappeared. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallot and onions into a stewpan with a lump of butter and fry them without browning; add fifteen or eighteen mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and a clove of garlic in with the onions. Pour in over the onions, etc., one-half pint of white wine and the same quan- tity of gravy. Boil the liquor till it is reduced to half its original quantity, then strain it through a fine hair-sieve into another saucepan; stir in with it a little thick brown sauce and a half teacupful of melted glaze, stir it over the fire for three or four min- utes, then throw in the slices of kidney and heat them without boiling. Take the garlic and bunch of parsley out of the liquor, place the kidney and sauce on a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread or bits of toast, and serve. The slices of kidney may also be served in a fancv paste croustade. Braised Knuckle of Veal. Lard well a knuckle of veal weighing about three pounds; braise it in a pan with one ounce of fresh salt pork, one tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring now and then, and moistening with one-half pint each of Spanish sauce and white broth. Add one pint of raw jardiniere and one break- fast cupful of flageolets. Cook all together for fortv-five minutes. Transfer the knuckle to a hot dish, pour the garnishing over, and serve very hot. Baked Leg of Veal with Cream Sauce. Place a small leg of veal in rather a deep baking dish; melt a lump of butter, pour it over the veal and roast it in a slack oven. Turn the meat now and then and baste it well. When nearly cooked sprinkle over with a little flour and salt, pour over it one-half pint of cream and finish cooking, basting from time to time and keeping the oven slack. When done drain the leg, place it on a hot dish and arrange a truffle round the knuckle-bone. Pour the cream into a small saucepan, mix a small quantity of nuked glaze with it and boil until slightly reduced. Add two or three drops of vinegar, then pour the same over the meat, and serve. Leg of Veal in Surprise. Lard the veal with fat bacon and lemon peel cut very thin. Make a rich oyster forcemeat to stuff it with. When stuffed put it in a stewpan, barely cover with water, and allow it to stew until tender and thoroughlv done, then take it up. Skim the liquor well leaving no fat on it, and add to it a piece of butter rolled in flour, the 252 VEAL. crumb of a roll grated finely, a little mushroom catsup, a small quantity of lemon juice, one pint of cream and one-half pint of oysters ; stir this over the fire until it thickens, let it boil for a few minutes, then pour over the veal ; garnish with oysters fried in butter and slices of toasted bacon. Calf's Liver. Those who are addicted to the eating of liver will appreciate that of the calf above all others. It should be cut into slices a half inch or so thick, and well washed, dried and floured before using. The flesh is close and drv when cooked, and therefore requires some qualifying material to be served with it, such as bacon. Liver and Bacon in Paper Cases. Boil some calf's liver until tender and cut it into slices. Open a sheet of com- mon note paper, and place on one-half of it a nicely trimmed rasher of bacon; have well mixed half an ounce of sifted breadcrumbs, and about one saltspoonful each of pepper, sifted herbs, chopped parsley, salt, and very finely-chopped onion ; sprinkle nearly one teaspoonful of this seasoning over the rasher of bacon, lay it on a slice of the liver, sprinkle this also with about a teaspoonful of the seasoning, lav on top an- other nicclv-trimmed thin rasher, fold the other half of the paper over, turn up the edges of the paper at the three open sides, and fry for quarter of an hour, turning once. Serve while it is very hot. Braised Calf's Liver. Remove the skin, gall and spleen from a very white calf's liver, lard it with some well-seasoned fillets of ham and fat bacon, the larding to be done in such a way that the fillets do not cross the top surface. Put the liver in a basin with some trimmings of truffles, a bay leaf, a few sprigs of parsley and thyme and a little salt and spices. Let it remain in this for two hours, then wrap the liver and seasonings up in a large piece of pig's caul, and tie it securely with tape. Place a good-sized lump of lard in a stewpan, and when boiling put the liver in, fry it for about fifteen minutes, then put the lid on the stewpan with some live embers on the top, move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and braise the liver for one hour, turning it frequently. Peel and scald two dozen small onions and two dozen small carrots, put them in with the liver, the onions on one side and the carrots on the other, sprinkle in a little salt, place the lid on the stewpan again, with a fresh supply of live embers on the top, and finish cooking by the side of a moderate fire for another hour. Remove the liver, drain it. put it in a hot dish, and arrange the vegetables neatly round it. Skim the fat off the cooking liquor, mix with it one wincglassful of white wine and a little gravy, boil quickly till it is reduced one-half, then mix with it a small quantity of brown sauce ami stir over the fire a few minutes longer Sprinkle in a little pepper and salt, strain the sauce, pour it over the liver, and serve. VEAL. 253 Calf's Liver, Brittany Style. Chop fine four or five large-sized onions, put them into a saucepan with a bay leaf and a lump of butter and fry till well browned. Sprinkle a little salt, pepper and flour over the onions, add a pinch of sugar, pour in a half pint of gravy, and boil them gently till cooked. Cut a calf's liver in slices and season with salt and pepper, place them in a fryingpan with a lump of butter, and fry over a quick fire. When the pieces of liver are cooked remove the pan from the fire, pour a small quantity of glaze and lemon juice over and sprinkle in a little chopped parsley; toss them about well until all the slices are covered. Arrange these in a circle on a hot dish, and fill in the center with the chopped onions. Garnish with croutons of fried bread that have been brushed over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze, and then serve. Broiled Calf's Liver with Bacon. Take a white and tender calf's liver weighing about a pound and a half, pare and trim off the hard portions, cut it into six slices of equal size and put them on a dish. Season with one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper and one tablespoon- ful of sweet oil; mix well together. liroil for a few minutes on each side, arrange the slices on a hot dish and decorate with six thin, crisp slices of broiled bacon. Spread over the whole one gill of maitre d 'hotel butter, and serve very hot. Curried Calf's Liver. Cut two pounds of liver into small thin pieces. Fry two small sliced onions in a little butter, put in the pieces of liver and fry them, adding more butter as required. Mix two tablespoonfuls of curry powder with four tablespoonfuls of flour, stir it in with the liver, sprinkle salt, pepper and a little cayenne over, then stir all over the fire for two or three minutes, adding slowly one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of Stock. Boil and turn all on to a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Calf's Liver, French Style. Select a sound white liver, cut it into slices and place them in a saucepan with two thin slices of fat bacon, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one finely chopped shallot, a small lump of butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Put on the lid and keep the saucepan close to a moderate fire in order that the liver may cook without sim- mering. When thoroughlv done, which will take about an hour and a half, put it on a hot dish and keep it warm. Boil the gravy and bacon together, pour it over the liver, and serve at once. Calf's Liver, Milanese Style. Cut a large, white liver into thin slices, pound these slightly, sprinkle over a little salt and mixed spices, dredge with flour, and dip in beaten eggs. Place some 254 VEAL. lard in a fryingpan, and when boiling plunge the slices of liver in. Fry them till well browned, and sprinkle a little salt over; arrange on a hot dish, and garnish with lemons cut in quarters, and serve. Minced Calf's Liver. Chop fine about a pound and a half of calf's liver, a small onion and a quarter of a pound of fat bacon. Place the onion and bacon in a stewpan with a small piece of butter, and stir it over the fire for five minutes. Then put in the liver and sprinkle over salt and pepper, and any kind of seasoning that may be desired, and stir the whole over the fire for ten or twelve minutes. Turn the mixtnre onto a dish, leave it until cool, then mix in three well-beaten eggs. Sew a caul into a bag, put the mince into it, and fasten at the end. Melt a good-sized lump of butter in a saucepan, then put it in the bag, place the lid on the saucepan, and steam it for an hour turning occasionally. When cooked take the caul out of the saucepan, and allow it to get cold before serving. Stewed Calf's Liver, Bourgeoise. Place in a saucepan over the fire a small calf's liver thoroughlv larded with pieces of larding pork — previously seasoned with a pinch or two of chopped parsley and a clove (crushed) of garlic : — with two tablespoonfuls of clarified butter, one sprig of thyme, two bay leaves, half of a sliced carrot, and half of a sliced onion, then turn the liver over and moisten it with one gill of Spanish sauce, and one gill of white broth. Season with a pinch of salt and a little pepper, and cook for forty-five minutes. Strain the sauce into another saucepan, meanwhile keeping the liver in a warm place; add to the gravy two medium-sized, well-scraped, sliced raw carrots, and two or three ounces of salted pork cut into shreds. Stew well together for twenty-five minutes, and pour the garnishing over the liver just prior to serving. Decorate with six or eight small onions placed round the dish. Veal Loaf. Put one and one-half pounds of veal into a stewpan with an onion, carrot and bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt, and sufficient water to cover it, and stew the veal gently until tender. Ornament the interior of a mould with hard-boiled eggs, beet-root and olives, all cut into different shapes, and stuck with half-set aspic jelly. Leave the mould until the jelly has set. Drain the veal when cooked, trim off all the fat, chop it fine, and mix one pint of liquid jelly with it. When the mince is nearly cold, turn it carefully into the decorated mould, and leave till set. Turn the shape out of the mould onto a fancy dish, garnish it with parsley, and serve at once VEAL. 255 Braised Loin of Veal. Remove the bone from the loin, and lard it with thick strips of bacon. Place some thin slices of bacon in a stewpan, sprinkle over some chopped parsley, chives, a clove of garlic, a bunch of thyme, and some laurel leaves, put in the larded veal, season with salt and pepper to taste, cover with slices of carrots, onions and turnips, moisten with stock to a trifle more than half its height, and cook slowly for half an hour. When cooked put the veal on a hot dish, strain the sauce through a silk sieve, boil it quickly until reduced, then pour it over the veal, and serve. Loin of Veal, Farmer's Style. Stuff about seven pounds of the loin of veal cut from the best end with veal forcemeat, truss it and cover with a sheet of thickly buttered paper. Roast the veal in the oven for an hour and a half, basting frequently with butter. At the end of that time baste the veal with cream until it is well cooked (which will take about thirty minutes longer). When done dress the veal on a hot dish, mix the basting cream with a little hot bechamel sauce and water, pour it over the veal, and serve. Roasted Loin of Veal. Saw the spine and whatever hipbone remains from a fine white, fresh fat loin of veal with the kidney. Season the loin with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt and one heaping teaspoonful of pepper, and roll the flank part neatly over the kidney, tying it with a string. Have in readiness a lightly buttered roastingpan, place the loin in it, pour in one wineglassful of water, and put a few bits of butter here and there over the meat, then cover its entire length with a piece of well-buttered paper. Place the pan in a moderate oven, and roast for one hour and three-quarters, basting it frequently meanwhile with its own gravy. Remove it from the oven, untie and place it on a hotwater dish. Add three tablespoonfuls of broth to the gravy in the pan, skim off the fat and reduce it to the consistencv of half glaze. Strain it through a sieve, either over the roasted meat or into a sauceboat, and serve at once. Minced Veal, Turkish Style. Mince fine three pounds of raw veal, put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of water, and one saltspoonful of salt, and stir it over the fire until the moisture has evaporated, and the mince is well browned. Peel and chop fine three onions and a small bunch of parsley from the stems; soak the crumb of a French roll in water. Mix all the ingredients together, season with salt and pepper and stir in sufficient beaten c^ to form a rather stiff paste, working it well. Put two ounces of butter into a deep fryingpan, place it over the fire until hot, then pour in the mixture and fry it until nicely browned, turning it when done on one side 256 VEAL. and finishing the other. When cooked turn the cake of mincemeat onto an orna- mental dish-paper on a hot plate, garnish with fried parsley, and serve at once. Minced Veal with Macaroni. Mince fine one pound of veal, and mix with it one-fourth pound each of finely- grated breadcrumb and minced ham, together with a little lemon peel. Season the mixture with salt and pepper, and bind it together with two tablespoonfuls of ricli gravy and two well-beaten eggs. Boil six ounces of macaroni, and when tender drain it well. Butter a mould, line it with macaroni, mix a little of the macaroni with the veal mixture, and turn it into the mould, pressing it tightly down. Stand the mould in a saucepan with boiling water to three-fourths its height, and steam it for half an hour. When cooked turn the veal and the macaroni out of the mould onto a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich gravy. Minced Veal with Mushrooms and Cream. Empty a can of small mushrooms into a saucepan, put in a piece of butter and stew them for fifteen minutes over a clear fire. Chop fine some cold roasted veal and season it with pepper and salt. Mince the mushrooms, mix them with the veal and turn all into a saucepan with two ounces of butter that has been well worked with two ounces of flour and a little more than one-half teacupful of cream or cream)' sauce. Stir the mixture well over the fire for a few minutes. Turn the mince out onto a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast, and serve. Mireton of Veal. Chop fine some cold roasted veal, mix with it one-half pound of ham also very finely-chopped and season it with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Soak the crumb of a French roll in one teacupful of milk. Slice a small onion and fry it until nicely-browned in a little butter; then drain and mince it fine; put all the above ingredients in a saucepan with the grated peel of a lemon and one tea- cupful of cream and stir it over the fire until it is hot. Beat an c^vi; well and add it to the mixture, then move the saucepan off the fire; butter a mould, pour the mixture into it and press the lid down tightly; put the mould in the oven and brown the contents slightly. When cooked place the mireton on a hot dish, pour some rich gravy over it, and serve. Montglas of Veal with Croutons. Trim off all the sinewy parts of a cooked minion fillet of veal, cut it into slices about 'one-fourth of an inch thick, then cut them into small squares. Put the veal into a saucepan with half its quantity of cooked pickled tongue and mush- VEAL. 257 rooms also cut into small pieces. Pour one-half pint of brown sauce and one wine- glassful of Madeira wine over the above ingredients, season with a little cayenne pepper and keep it on the fire until on the point of boiling, then move it to the side. Turn the montglas onto a hot dish, garnish with glazed croutons of fried bread, and serve. Braised Neck of Veal with Truffles. Trim a neck of veal, that part used for cutlets, cut the bone off short and lard it with black truffles in such a way as to resemble a draught-board. Braise the meat with plenty of bacon on the top, so that it will retain its white color, and glaze the meat slightly. Put the meat on a hot dish, cover it with Italian sauce and truffles, and serve. Neck of Veal, St. Clair Style. Roast a nicclv-trimmed end of a neck of veal in vegetables; when nearly cooked remove the paper and vegetables and brown it lightly. Peel and boil a sufficient quantity of potatoes, mash them with butter and press them into a border mould. Stand the mould in a bain marie to keep hot. Make about one pint of thin tomato sauce, and mix with it one-half teaspoonful of anchovy butter. Cut a dozen slices of bacon into heart-shaped pieces and frv them. Place the veal on a hot dish, garnish with the slices of bacon, and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat. Veal Patties. Mince about four pounds of leg of veal and one-fourth pound of salt pork. Roll half a dozen soda crackers and sift them. Mix with the minced meat one table- spoonful each of salt and pepper, one grated nutmeg arid two well-beaten eggs. Mould the mixture into small oval shapes, place them in a baking-dish, sprinkle the cracker-crumbs over the top, place a few small pieces of butter here and there and pour in one-half teacupful of water. Bake the patties in a quick oven, basting them often. When cooked arrange them on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of clear gravy. Veal Paupiettes. Cut some thin cutlets from a fillet of veal, and beat them flat and even. Mince a small quantity of veal very fine, mix it with some of the kidney fat chopped very fine, and half a dozen anchovies chopped fine also, adding a little salt, ginger and powdered mace. Place this mixture over the slices of veal and roll them up. Beat up an c^^ dip the rolled slices into it, and then into sifted breadcrumbs. Let them stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, then egg them again, roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping, or stew them in some rich gravy with one-half pint of white wine and a small quantity of walnut pickle. 258 VEAL. Veal Pie, French Style. Trim off the skin from some remains of cold roast veal, and mince the meat as fine as possible with one-third of its quantity of ham. Open and beard two dozen oysters, mix them with the veal, season the mixture with powdered mace, grated lemon peel, salt and pepper and a few drops of mushroom ketchup, and moisten it with the strained liquor of the oysters and a moderate quantity of rich brown gravy. Prepare a nice puff paste, line a buttered pie-dish with it, put in the above mixture, cover with a flat of paste, trim it off neatly round the edges, wet them with a small quantity of water, and pinch both together. Bake the pie for about half an hour, or until the paste is cooked, and then serve. Veal Kidney Pie. Chop very fine three kidneys together with their fat, and stir in with them a small quantity of finely-chopped sweet herbs and chopped celery; season with grated nutmeg, mace and pounded cloves, and pepper and salt to taste, adding the chopped yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, and one scant breakfast cupful of grated breadcrumbs. Butter a pie dish, line it with puff paste, put in the above mixture, moisten with one or two tablespoonfuls of sherry, and cover the pie with a flat layer of puff paste; trim off evenly round the edges, moisten and press them together. Make a slight incision in the top of the pie, and bake in a slow oven. Serve while hot. Veal and Oyster Pie. Cut one pound of neck of veal into small pieces, put them in a saucepan, cover with water and stew them for an hour. Cut two ounces of pork into small pieces, put them in with the veal, and add one chopped onion, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of thickening, one teacupful of milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook the mixture for twenty minutes longer, then turn it into a shallow dish, put a breakfast cupful of oysters over the top, dredge in some pepper, salt and flour, and cover the pie with a common pie-crust. Bake the pie for about half an hour, and serve it either hot or cold. Quenelles of Veal. Trim off the fat from one pound of veal, chop, place it in a mortar and pound it. Put one breakfast cupful of breadcrumbs into a saucepan with one-half pint of milk and stir over the fire until smooth, then leave until cool. Stir the pounded veal and breadcrumbs well together, season with a small quantity of grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, pepper and salt, and add one-half pint of white sauce, the volks of four eggs — one at a time — and then the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Melt a lump of butter in a fryingpan, mould the mixture into quenelles with two tablespoons, which VEAL. 259 should be dipped in hot water each time a quenelle is moulded. Slip the quenelles off the spoons into the fryingpan, and when all are finished cover them with boiling white stock and cook them for twenty minutes. Prepare a border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish. When cooked drain the quenelles, put them on the border, with one tablespoonful of bechamel sauce on each, pour a quantity of bechamel sauce in the center of the dish, and serve the quenelles at once. Veal Rissoles. Mince fine one pound of veal and one-fourth pound of suet. Soak two pounds of breadcrumbs in a small quantity of milk till soft, mix them with the veal and suet. season with a little pounded mace, pepper and salt, and bind with the beaten yolks of a couple of eggs. Mould the mixture into small balls, brush them over with clarified butter and cover them thickly with breadcrumbs. Put a lump of butter into a frying- pan and melt it; then put in the rissoles and fry them till well browned all over. Drain the rissoles, place them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich brown gravy. Rolled Veal. Hone a loin of veal and trim it neatly. Prepare a stuffing with fmelv-minccd ba- con and breadcrumbs, seasoning them with grated lemon peel, sweet herbs, pounded mace, salt and pepper and cayenne pepper, and binding it all with beaten c^. Spread the mixture over the veal, roll it up, bind it tightly to keep it in shape, place it in a stewpan, lay a few slices of fat bacon on the top, cover it with nicely-flavored stock, and stew it gently for four hours. When cooked remove the veal from the fire and allow it to partly cool in the stock; then drain it, put it between two dishes, with a weight on the top, and leave till cold. Remove the bindings and brush it over with melted glaze. Spread a folded napkin on a dish, place the veal on, garnish with pars- lev, and serve. Roasted Round of Veal. Cut a slice of veal out of the largest part of the leg, remove the center bone, and fill the cavity with bread stuffing. Wrap the meat in a sheet of buttered paper, arrange it in the pan and roast it in a hot oven, basting it frequently. Half an hour before the fillet is done, remove the paper, sprinkle a little salt over it, and allow it to brown nicely. When cooked, remove the meat from the oven, glaze it, place it on a hot dish, pour a little brown gravy over, and serve with a separate dish of vegetables. Veal Sausages. Chop two pounds or so of veal very fine, carefully removing from it all skin and sinew, mix with it one pound of finely-chopped beef suet, and season well with 2 6o VEAL. salt, pepper, chopped parsley, thyme and marjoram. Place the mixture in well- cleaned skins and tie them at intervals with twine. Scalloped Veal. Mince a quantity of cold roasted veal, season it with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, moisten it well with a few tablespoonfuls of cream, place it in a saucepan and stir it over the fire for a few minutes. Fill some scallop shells with the veal mixture, cover them over with grated breadcrumbs, put a few small bits of butter in each, and brown them in the oven or under a salamander. Place the shells on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper laid on a dish, and serve them. Roasted Shoulder of Veal. Remove the knuckle from a shoulder of veal and roast the fillet, basting it often. When cooked place the veal on a hot dish, garnish it with slices of lemon, and serve with a sauceboatful of ovster sauce. Spiced Veal. Cut some cold lean veal, either fried or baked, into pieces about one inch square. Pour on sufficient scalding-hot vinegar to cover, adding to each pint of the same one dozen whole cloves, one-half stick of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of salt and a small red pepper or a dozen peppercorns. When the vinegar is hot pour it and the spices over the pieces of veal and allow them to stand in the pickle for at least twenty-four hours. It is then ready for use and is excellent when served for cold luncheon or supper. Broiled Veal Steak. Grease a gridiron well, put a steak of veal on it and broil over a clear fire, turn- ing now and then. Chop fine four or five small fresh onions, put them in a sauce- pan with a little tomato catsup, a small quantity of thyme and one ounce of butter; fry them for a few minutes, then pour in one teacupful of broth and boil slowly for twenty minutes. When cooked and nicely browned put the veal stock on a hot dish with a lump of butter on it. Stir one tablespoonful of flour into the gravy, color it with a little browning, pour in a few drops of wine and stir over the fire until boiling fast. Pour the gravy over the veal, and serve with a dish of spinach or sorrel. Stewed Veal. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour an 1 two ounces of butter into a stewpan and stir over the fire until browned and well mixed; then put in the veal, cut into pieces, and fry a little. Put in some young onion, button mushrooms, peas, carrots, a bunch of thyme and some laurel leaves, with salt and pepper to taste, and moisten the whole VEAL. 2 6 1 with a little warm water. Boil the veal gently until cooked, then turn the stew onto a hot dish, and serve at once. Stewed Veal, Bourgeoise. Cook in one ounce of warm butter three pounds of lean veal cut in pieces and six small onions. After cooking for ten minutes add two tablespoonfuls of flour and mois- ten with one quart of white broth. Stir well and season with one heaping tablespoon- ful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper and one-half wineglassful of red wine. Add two or three carrots cut into small squares one ounce of salt pork cut up into pieces, and a garnished bouquet. Cook for forty minutes longer, remove the bouquet, and serve very hot. Stewed Breast of Veal. Blanch abreast of veal, put it in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions each stuck with two or three cloves, the peel of half a lemon, a blade of mace, three ounces of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Fry the veal for two or three minutes, but do not allow it to take color, then pour in one pint of hot water and stew it gently until tender. When cooked remove the long bones from the veal and strain the liquor. Put one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour in a stewpan and mix them over the fire, then stir in the veal stock, add one teacupful of thick cream, and stir the whole over the fire until boiling; then move the Stewpan to the side of the fire and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and some oysters that have been blanched in their own liipior. Place the veal on a hot dish, garnish it with fried ovsters and slices of lemon, and serve. Stewed Breast of Veal, Nantaise. Trim three pounds of the breast of veal, make a few incisions on the top, and tie it round tightly with string. Place it in a deep sautepan with a piece of pork skin cut up, a carrot and a sliced onion, and cover with buttered paper; when it begins to color after cooking five minutes or so, moisten it gently with one pint of water or broth. Baste as often as possible, and allow it to cook for one hour. Place it on a dish, strain the sauce over, garnish with six stuffed lettuce heads and a few croutons of fried bread, and serve. Stewed Breast of Veal with Turnips. Cut half of a breast of veal into small pieces. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it over the fire for a few minutes; then put in the pieces of veal and fry them until the meat has well set. Remove the stewpan from the fire, drain off the fat, pour in by degrees sufficient broth and white wine mixed in equal quantities to cover the meat, also put in a large 262 VEAL. onion stuck with three or four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs and a small quantity of pepper. Place the saucepan on the fire until the liquor commences to boil, then move it to the side, and allow it to simmer. Peel some turnips, cut them into the shape of balls with a vegetable cutter, and blanch them for a few minutes; then drain, place them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter or lard, and fry them until lightly colored, seasoning with a little pepper, salt and a little sugar. Drain all the fat from the turnips, put them in with the meat and finish the cooking. When cooked skim the fat off the stew, turn it out on to a hot dish, and serve. Stewed Fillet of Veal. Bone a fillet of veal, fill the cavity with veal stuffing, then lard the fillet and half roast it; then put it into a stewpan with two quarts of white stock, one teaspoonful of mushroom catsup, and one teaspoonful of lemon pickle. Let it simmer slowly until cooked. Strain the gravy, then thicken it with butter rolled in flour, add a few pickled mushrooms and a little salt and cayenne, and pour it over the boiling veal on the dish. Have in readiness two or three dozen forcemeat balls to put round and on top of it, place some slices of lemon round, and serve the dish. Stewed Kernel of Veal. Saw the knuckle off a leg of veal, lay the fillet on the table, cut through the bone in the center under the udder until the skin is cut through, then remove the bone and lay out the meat. There will be separate pieces of meat, the largest of which is the kernel. Cut it out by pressing the hand upon it, and then with a sharp knife cut down close to the skin until it comes to the udder ; then take the piece of meat out, and lay it on the table, the best side down and beat it well. Trim this meat neatly, and lard it with thin strips of fat bacon. Cut off the udder and secure it to the side of the kernel. Line a flat stewpan with pieces of bacon and two sliced onions, put in the veal with a bunch of sweet herbs and two bav leaves, and pour in two breakfast cupfuls of clear broth, Place the stewpan in a moderate oven, and cook the contents for three hours, basting the meat occasionallv with some of its own cooking liquor. Should all the moisture become absorbed, a small quantity of water may be added. When cooked take the veal out of the stewpan, glaze it and brown it lightly with a salamander. Lay it on a hot dish, and keep it hot while the sauce is being prepared. Strain the cooking gravy through a fine hair sieve into a small saucepan, season it with pepper, and boil it up. Then pour the gravy over the kernel, and serve. Stewed Knuckle of Veal. Take a knuckle of veal, break the bone well in two or three places, put it into a Baucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs, eight or ten shallots, a small quantity of whole VEAL. 263 black pepper, a blade or two of mace and salt to taste, pour over it five pints of water, put it on the fire, and allow it to boil gently until the water is reduced to two and one-half pints. Then take out the meat, strain the gravy, mix in with it two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir it over the fire until it boils, and cook it for ten minutes, stirring now and then. Then put back into the gravy the best part of the meat cut nicely from the bone, add a very small quantity of cayenne, lemon juice to taste, and two wineglassfuls of Madeira wine, and allow all to get quite hot. Garnish with sippets of toast, slices of lemon, and piles of forcemeat balls, and serve. Stewed Loin of Veal. The chump end of a loin of veal is the best part to stew. When well floured, place it in a saucepan with a little butter that has been browned over the fire, and brown the veal in it ; when of a good color, pour in enough good veal broth to half cover it, put in a couple of carrots, cut in pieces an onion, a small sprig of parsley, and a small bunch of sweet herbs, and stew gently for two hours and a half. When half done, turn it, and when quite done, take it out. Thicken the broth, season it to taste, pour over the veal, and serve. Stewed Veal, Marengo. Cut three pounds of lean veal into pieces and cook them in a stewpan with one gill of oil, a cut up onion or two shallots and two or three ounces of salt pork, also cut in pieces. Toss them occasionally, and when well browned, which should take- about ten minutes, dredge in two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring well. Moisten with one quart of white broth and one gill of tomato sauce and season with one table- spoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper, adding a crushed clove of garlic and a garnished bouquet. Cook for forty minutes and serve with croutons of fried bread for garnish with a little chopped parsley sprinkled over. Stewed Neck of Veal. Trim a neck of veal, soak it in tepid water for a short time, then put it in boil- ing water and leave it for ten minutes. Put one-fourth pound of butter in a stewpan and add two ounces of flour and stir it over the fire until well mixed ; then put in the veal, two or three onions, carrots and parsnips, a bunch of parsley, a clove of garlic, two or three cloves, a little salt and pepper, and moisten with a little water. Cook the meat gently until tender, then take it out and place it on a hot dish. Boil the cooking liquor until well reduced, then strain it through a fine hair sieve. Mix one table-spoonful of chopped gherkins and one teaspoonful of vinegar with the sauce, and serve in a sauceboat with the veal. 264 VEAL. Stewed Veal, Provincial. Cut into pieces three pounds of lean veal from the breast or shoulder-blade and place them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil and one chopped onion. Cook for ten minutes, stirring now and then; add two tablespoon- fuls of flour, stir again and moisten with one quart of white broth. Season with one heaping tablcspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper and add half a dozen minced mushrooms, three crushed cloves of garlic and a bunch of garnished parsley. Cook for forty minutes, and serve on a hot dish with a little chopped parsley sprinkled over it. Stewed Veal, Solferine. Cook three pounds or so of veal cut into pieces from the breast or shoulder in one ounce of butter with half a dozen small young onions. When cooked for ten minutes add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and moisten with one quart of white broth, and one gill of tomato sauce, seasoning with one tablespoonful of salt and one tea- spoonful of pepper. Stir together well until it reaches the boiling point, then add two turnips and two or three carrots cut out into various shapes with a vegetable scoop, and a garnished bouquet. Cook for forty minutes longer, and serve. Any kind of vegetables in season may be added. Stewed Veal with Oyster Plant. Prepare and cook the same as for stewed veal bourgeoise, putting in place of the garnishing one bunch of well cleaned raw oyster plant cut into pieces forty minutes prior to serving. How to Prepare Sweetbreads. Leave a dozen sweetbreads in cold water for two hours to disgorge, then change the water and boil them for a few moments on a hot fire ; take them off and refresh in cold water; cut away all the windpipes and fibrous nerves and then prepare them as required in the various recipes. Aiguillettes of Sweetbreads. Boil a sufficient number of throat sweetbreads in water for ten minutes. Pour off the water and add some onion, carrot and turnip, all sliced, bay leaves, and enough stock or broth. Let all simmer for twenty minutes, until the sweetbreads are quite firm; then take out and lay on a clean cloth. Cut them into pieces about the size of a quarter, with a long, round cutter, and season with pepper and salt. Then chop some shallots very fine, and fry them in a stewpan with a little butter until they are quite white; add some white sauce and a little white stuck. Reduce it slowly until thickish, when the yolks of some eggs may be beaten in and the juice of some lemon. VEAL. 265 Do not let it boil after the yolks are added, but remove to one side of the stove. Dip the pieces of sweetbread into the sauce, and lay them on a dish until they are cold. Run the skewers through the centers of the pieces, two on a skewer. Put plenty of egg and breadcrumb on them and fry in hot lard, serving very hot on a folded napkin or dish-paper. Attereaux of Sweetbreads. Boil two large sweetbreads until they are done; let them cool and divide them into slices. Sprinkle over them a little salt and pepper, and arrange them round the bottom of a sautcpan in which some butter has been spread. Fry over a sharp fire; take them out and place them on a slab to cool, with a light weight on top to make them flat. When these slices arc quite cold, cut them round with a cutter, and put them into a basin with an equal quantity of similar rounds of boiled tongues and mushrooms, all cut with the same cutter so as to be exactly the same size as the rounds of sweetbreads. Pour over them in the basin a little well reduced brown sauce, roll them in this sauce, and then string them alternately on little wooden skewers. Have ready some villeroy sauce, made bv beating some yolks of eggs up in a mortar with butter divided into little pieces; add this to the usual white sauce, reduced and made consistent, and boil up. Dip the attereaux in the sauce made at the same time as they arc preparing, and arrange them on a baking sheet, at a little distance from each other to let the sauce cool. Then take them out, one by one, trim off the super- fluous sauce, and roll them in breadcrumbs; dip into beaten c^^, and again roll in breadcrumbs; then plunge them into boiling fat until of a good color. Drain, remove the wooden skewer, place them on ornamental metal attelettes, and dish on a folded napkin. No sauce is required in serving these. Braised Sweetbreads. Take six blanched heart sweetbreads, lard the upper parts slightly, and place them in a braisingpan with some slices of fat pork; add half of a sliced carrot, half of a sliced onion, and a garnished bunch of parsley. Sprinkle with a little salt, and cover with buttered paper. Cook them to a golden color on the fire, and moisten with one-half pint of strong white broth; place the pan in the oven, and bake the swei threads for forty minutes, basting occasionally with the gravy, lifting the buttered paper, and replacing it each time in the same position. The sweetbreads will now be ready to serve with any kind of sauce that may be desired. Braised Sweetbreads, Montglas. Place half a dozen small sweetbreads in an equal number of small buttered paper cases, having cooked fine herbs strewn over the bottom. Heat it in the 266 VEAL. oven for five minutes, then pour one tablespoonful of hot montglas over each and serve on a dish with a folded napkin. Braised Sweetbreads, Pompadour. Braise six sweetbreads, pour one-half pint of hot bernaise sauce on a dish and sprinkle with two truffles cut into small pieces, place six artichoke bottoms over the sauce, place a sweetbread on each with a truffle on top, and serve at once. Broiled Sweetbreads, Colbert. Cut into halves three fine blanched sweetbreads, season with one pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper and pour over one tablespoonful of oil; stir together well and broil them over a sharp fire for five minutes on each side. Dress on a hot dish, and serve with one pint of hot colbert sauce poured over. Broiled Sweetbreads, Maitre d' Hotel. Split the sweetbreads into flat slices, dust them with pepper and salt, and rub them well over with flour. Broil the sweetbreads over a clear fire, turning them often and basting with warmed butter. Place one-fourth pound of butter in a saucepan, with one tablespoonful each of water and chopped parsley, the juice of a large lemon and a little cayenne pepper. Place the sweetbreads on a hot dish and garnish them with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Collops of Sweetbreads with Green Peas. Soak four large sweetbreads in warm water to remove all the blood, then blanch them till firm. Cut the sweetbreads into large collops, place them in a frvingpan with some butter and fry over a clear fire, turning when done on one side. When cooked drain the butter off the sweetbreads, put a little glaze in the pan and stir them until well glazed. Arrange the collops in a circle on a hot dish, fill the center with boiled green peas, and serve. Creamed Sweetbreads. Wash and boil the require ! number of sweetbreads for twenty minutes or so, then drain and chop them into small pieces; put them into a saucepan with some white sauce and boil for a few minutes. Toast some slices of bread, remove the crusts, but- ter the slices, cut them into halves or quarters and place them on a hot dish. Pour the creamed sweetbreads over the toast, and serve hot. Sweetbread Cromcskies. Boil ail udder of veal in a stock-pot, and when done leave it until cool, then trim and cut into thin slices the whole length of the piece. Blanch some throat VEAL. 267 sweetbreads, trim and cut them into small square pieces; cut an equal quantity of mushrooms in the same way and stir them together in some stiffly-reduced allemande sauce. When cold, place portions of the sweetbread mixture on slices of udder, wrap the udder round them and roll them into the shape of corks. Dip the cromc- skies into frying-batter and fry them in a deep pan in plenty of fat until they arc crisp and lightly browned. Drain the cromeskies, place them on a hot dish, garnish them nicely all round with fried parsley and serve. Royal Sweetbread Croquettes. Put three small or two large sweetbreads into boiling water for five minutes. Chop them finely with one boiled boned chicken, adding one teaspoonful of onion juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and one teaspoonful of mace. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan with one large tablespoonful of flour; when it bubbles add one pint of cream, the chopped mixture, and stir all together thoroughlv until well heated. Remove from the fire, add the juice of half a lemon and set on one side to cool. Roll the mixture into shapes and dip them into beaten eggs and then into fine cracker-crumbs. Let the croquettes stand until dry, dip them again in egg and finally in breadcrumbs. All the crumbs should first be salted and peppered. Fry quickly in boiling fat and serve. Curried Sweetbreads. Take two calf's sweetbreads and cut them into pieces about two inches square. Pour into a pan three-fourths of a pint of good vealstock, put it over the fire and then throw in an onion sliced and fried, one tablespoonful each of curry-powder and vinegar, salt to taste, and one ounce of butter with sufficient flour rubbed into it to thicken the gravy; stir until it boils, then put in the sweetbreads and let them sim- mer for half an hour longer. Sweetbread Cutlets. (ut some cold cooked sweetbreads into round pieces, brush them over with beaten cj;\x, then coat well with finely-grated breadcrumb that has been seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little dried parsley. Place a lump of butter in a fryingpan, and when it has melted put in the cutlets and fry them until they are nicely browned. Arrange them in a circle on a dish, with a small crouton of fried bread between each, pour a small quantity of thick brown gravy in the center, and serve. Sweetbreads, English Style. Wash the sweetbreads and parboil them; put them in a saucepan over the fire with barely sufficient white stock to cover, and let them stew gently for about twenty- 268 VEAL. five minutes. Add a seasoning of white pepper, salt, and a small quantity of mace, thicken the gravy with butter and flour and add a little cream and cucumber catsup. Pour the gravy over the sweetbreads, and serve young peas or French beans with them. Sweetbreads, Financiere. Wash and blanch the sweetbreads, then drain and press them between two plates until they are cold; trim and season them with pepper and salt; butter the bottom of a sautepan, put in the sweetbreads and fry until they are done on both sides, then pour in one teacupful of clear broth and reduce that also to a glaze. When well glazed put the sweetbreads on a dish and keep them hot while the following garnish is being prepared. Pour one-half pint of wine in the stewpan that the sweetbreads were cooked in, and when boiling strain the wine through a fine hair sieve, skim off the fat and boil it until reduced to half its original quantity. Peel four or five raw truffles, cut them in quarters, place them in the wine with one teacupful of brown sauce, and boil for five minutes. Put eighteen or twenty button mushrooms in the sauce, with the same quantity of small poached quenelles and sprinkle them with a little cayenne pepper. Pour the garnish all round the sweetbreads, and serve them while very hot. Fricandeau of Sweetbreads. Skin and wash some sweetbreads, and lard them with well-seasoned bacon. Line a braisingpan with slices of bacon and beef. Put in some slices of onion, carrots, thyme, bay leaves, and a seasoning of silt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and mixed spices; then put in the sweetbreads, cover them well with some of the same seasoning, and moisten with a little broth. Fix the lid on tightly; solder the edges with hot water paste, so that no air can be admitted, place some live embers on the lid, place the pan over a slow fire, and cook the contents for fortv-five minutes. When cooked, pour the sauce through a fine hair sieve, add one pinch of sugar to it, and boil until reduced. Glaze the sweetbreads with the reduced sauce. Put the sweetbreads on a puree of chicory that has been placed on a hot dish, garnish with stewed cucumbers, and serve. Fried Sweetbreads with Pcrigueux Sauce. Boil the sweetbreads, leave until cold, then cut them into slices. Melt a small quantity of butter in a flat stew pan, put in the slices of sweetbreads, sprinkle over a little pepper and salt, and fry them on both sides, add one-half pound of truffles cut in small pieces and a little white wine. Place the lid on the stewpan, cook the con- tents till the moisture has reduced to a glaze, then pour in a little brown sauce and put the mixture into a bain-marie. Butter a border mould, fill it with veal quenelle forcemeat, and poach it in a bain-marie. When firm turn the forcemeat out of the mould on to a hot dish, put a garnishing in the center, and serve. VEAL. 269 Sweetbreads in Cases. Boil the sweetbreads, then drain and cut them into small pieces, place them in some cream sauce, and season it with pepper and salt. Fill some paper cases with the above mixture, cover them with breadcrumbs, put one tablespoonful of warmed butter in each, and place them in the oven. When the mixture is nicely browned on the top, remove the cases from the oven, arrange them on a folded napkin laid on a dish, and serve. Sweetbreads in Shells. Cut four blanched sweetbreads into small slices, and stew them in a saucepan with one-half ounce of butter, one-half wincglassful of white wine, and three table- spoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Cook for ten minutes, and then add one gill of vcloute sauce, six minced mushrooms and two truffles, also finely chopped. Season with one-half tablespoonful of salt, one tcaspoonful of pepper, and one-half tea- spoonful of grated nutmeg, and finish by adding two tablcspoonfuls of cream or one- half ounce of butter. Fill eight table shells with this, sprinkle them with sifted breadcrumbs, pour over a few drops of clarified butter, and place them in the oven to brown slightly for six minutes longer. Serve on a hot dish with an ornamental paper over, and garnish with fried parsley. Sweetbread in White Sauce. Put a sweetbread in a bowl and cover it with cold water, and let it steep for an hour or two. Drain the sweetbread, put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover, and stand it over the fire. When the water boils move the saucepan a little off the fire so that the sweetbread may cook slowly for about thirty minutes. At the end of that time plunge the sweetbread into a basin of cold water, then drain it, trim off the fat, and cut it into small pieces. Put one-third of a tablespoonful of arrowroot into a basin, and mix it smoothly with one breakfast cupful of milk ; turn it into the saucepan, stir over the fire until it boils, then put in the sweetbread, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and simmer it gently at the edge of the fire for ten minutes. At the end of that time turn the sweetbread and sauce onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread that have been fried brown in butter, or sippets of toast, and serve. Larded Sweetbreads. Partially boil the sweetbreads, then drain and leave them until cold. Lard the sweetbreads with strips of bacon and lemon peel, putting the bacon in the center and the peel down the sides. Lay them in a stewpan with brown gravy to a little more than half their height, and let them simmer gently for an hour. Arrange the sweet- 2 7 o VEAL. breads on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with a little flour, season it to the taste with lemon juice and catsup, and pour it over the sweetbreads. They should be served while very hot. Sweetbreads, Montebello. Prepare some sweetbreads the same as sweetbreads Waldorf ; take them from under the weight and trim them into ovals ; cover them all with a preparation made of other sweetbreads minced into very small dice with mushrooms of the same size mingled with cream sauce, salt and pepper. Form this over the ovals in a dome- shape and cover with chicken forcemeat, containing very finely shredded red beef tongue. Dress the ovals on a dish covered with Montebello sauce, made by mixing tomato and Bearnaise sauce together. Sweetbreads, Parisian Style. Wash four sweetbreads and boil them for twenty or twentv-five minutes, then drain and soak them in cold water. Lard two of the sweetbreads with bacon, and stud the other two with fillets of raw truffles, pointed at one end. Put some slices of onions, carrots and turnips in a stewpan with some thin rashers of bacon, put in the sweetbreads, season with a little salt, and pour in some good broth to about three- fourths their height. Place a sheet of buttered paper over the sweetbreads, and boil them gently till the liquor is reduced to one-third, then place the lid on the stewpan with some hot ashes on it and finish cooking them. Ornament a border mould with some truffles, fill it with veal forcemeat and poach it in the bain-marie. When cooked turn the border of forcemeat onto a hot dish, place a piece of fried bread in the center masked with forcemeat, and fill up the hollow with cooked sliced truffles and mushrooms. Brush the sweetbreads over with melted glaze, and stand them on the border resting them on the block of bread. Place three button-mushrooms and a truffle between each sweetbread, garnish an attelettc skewer with a truffle and a cocks- comb, and fix it in the top of the bread support ; pour round the dish a small quantity of brown sauce that has been reduced in a little white wine, trimmings of mushrooms and truffles. Serve the sweetbread with a sauceboatful of the same sauce. Sweetbread and Mushroom Patties. Soak a sweetbread in cold water, blanch it in boiling water, take it out, drain, trim, remove the skin, fat and gristle. Put it in a saucepan and pour on sufficient water to cover; and boil for about fifty minutes, then remove it, drain, and cut up into pieces about one-half an inch thick. Wash thoroughly eight or ten large peeled mushrooms, put them into a saucepan with one-half an ounce of butter and one tea- spoonful of lemon juice. Add a small quantity of salt and pepper, cover the sauce- pan and cook slowlv tor about twenty minutes. Put one ounce each of butter and flour into the saucepan, mix together thoroughly, pour in one teacupful of rich stock VEAL. 2-1 and boil for a few minutes, stirring continually. Then add one tablespoonful of cream, also the mushrooms and sweetbread. Sprinkle over salt and pepper to taste and turn the mixture out to cool. Have ready a dozen small patty pans well buttered and lined with a rich puff paste, fill them with the sweetbread mixture, cove/ with more of the paste, brush over the top with a well beaten egg, put them into a mod- erate oven, and bake for twenty or twenty-five minutes ; then remove, and serve with- out delay. Sweetbread Pie, Financiere. Butter a pie mould and line it with short paste. Mix some sweet herbs witli a sufficient quantity of raw chicken forcemeat and put a layer of it at the bottom; fill the pic with collops of calf's or lamb's sweetbreads that have been fried with herbs, put in another layer of the forcemeat, lay a flat of paste on the top, moisten the edges and press them together, trimming round evenlv; brush the top over with a paste brush dipped in beaten c^'j;, cover witli a sheet of paper and bake for an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven. Shape out of some veal forcemeat fifteen quenelles and poach them in salted water. Lard a lamb's sweetbread, braise and glaze it with some fowls' livers, truffles, cockscombs and button mushrooms. Prepare a garnishing. When cooked take the pic out of the oven, take off the top round of paste and the top layer of forcemeat, slip the pie onto a hot dish and pour into it some brown sauce that has been reduced with a little Madeira. Arrange the garnishing in the center, placing the sweetbread on the top, put the quenelles on the rim, and serve the pie while hot with a sauceboatful of Madeira sauce. Sweetbreads, Picdmontese. boil two or three sweetbreads, drain and let them get cold, then cut them into slices broadwise. Season the slices of sweetbread, place them in a sautcpan witli some clarified butter and fry until they are slightly browned on both sides. Drain the butter off the sweetbreads, pour in a little white wine and boil it till reduced; add a small quantity of white sauce, keep the pan over the fire for a few minutes, then put in ten or a dozen thinly sliced raw truffles; move the saucepan to the side of the fire and keep it covered. Boil three-fourths of a pound of well-washed rice, turn it into a buttered border mould and keep it in a hot closet for ten minutes. When set turn the border of rice out of the mould onto a hot dish, pour the sweetbread mix- ture in the center, and serve it while very hot. Rissoles of Sweetbread. Wash and boil two sweetbreads for twenty or twenty-five minutes, drain and leave them until cold. Cut the sweetbreads into slices and then into small squares. Fry a chopped onion in a saucepan with a little butter, then put in one-fourth pound of ham and the same quantity of raw mushrooms, all cut into small pieces. Fry the 272 VEAL. above mixture until the moisture has evaporated, put in the pieces of sweetbread, season them with salt and pepper, then stir them over the fire for a minute or two. Pour in one-half teacupful of half reduced bechamel sauce, remove it from the fire and leave until cool. Roll one pound of puff paste out onto a floured board to a thin square, divide the sweetbread mixture into small equal quantities, put them on the paste a little apart from each other, dampen the paste with a paste brush dipped in water, fold the edges over the sweetbread mixture, pressing them down with the fingers, then cut the rissoles with a plain half-moon-shaped tin cutter. Arrange the rissoles on a baking tin, brush them over with beaten egg, sprinkle with crushed ver- micelli and bake. When cooked pile the rissoles on a folded napkin spread over a plate, and serve. Scalloped Sweetbreads, Richelieu. Take four blanched sweetbreads, cut them into slices and stew them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter and one-half of a wineglassful of white wine. Season with one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Cook for six minutes,, moistening with one gill of thick white sauce, and add two sliced truffles and four sliced mushrooms. Fill six scallop shells with tin- preparation, sprinkle the tops over with breadcrumbs, pour over all a few drop's of clarified butter and brown slightly in the oven for about five minutes. Serve on a dish with a folded napkin. Stewed Sweetbreads, Catalane. Cut into slices four blanched sweetbreads, put them in a sautepan with one-half gill of sweet oil, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, two chopped shallots and half of a slice of green pepper. Cook to a golden color for about six minutes and add two peeled tomatoes cut into pieces, one gill of Spanish sauce and a crushed clove of garlic. Cook for ten minutes longer, arrange the sweetbreads on a hot dish, and serve without delay. Timbale of Sweetbread. Wash some sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan with cold water and a lump of salt and boil for ten minutes; then put them into cold water and leave until quite cold, then lard them with thin strips of fat bacon. Place the sweetbreads in a stew- pan with some well-flavored stock (which should reach to a little more than half their height) and stew them gently for about an hour, basting Frequently. When cooked, leave them until cold, then cut them into thin slices. Putter a timbale-mould n\u\ line it with a short paste about 'one-eighth of an inch thick; fill it with alternate layers of sweetbread, nicely flavored forcemeat and mushrooms, seasoning between each layer with pepper and salt. Strain the cooking-liquor of the sweetbreads, skim VEAJ it well and pour it over the contents of the mould. Cover thetimbale with paste and put it in the oven, fixing it in position with ashes heaped up on both sides, When cooked turn the timbale out of the mould onto a hot dish, garnish with parsley and mushroom tops, and serve. Sweetbreads, Toulouse. Steep the sweetbreads until all the blood is drawn out of them, then blanch them in boiling water for five minutes or until they are firm. Drain the sweetbreads and leave them till cold, then trim and lard them thickly. Place a layer of sliced onion, carrot and celery at the bottom of a sautepan, put in the cutlets of sweetbreads and pour in a little stock, but not sufficient to cover them. Glaze the sweetbreads in a hot oven for about twenty minutes, basting them occasionally with their cooking liquor. Cook some asparagus tops and make a bed of them on a hot dish. When well browned and glazed drain the sweetbreads and pile them on the asparagus. Pass the cooking liquor through a silk sieve, skim off all the fat, pour it over the sweet- breads, and serve. Sweetbread Yol-au-Yent, Financiere. Prepare one pound of puff paste and roll it out to about two and one-half inches in thickness. Cut a round out of the paste with a tin cutter, brush the round over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg without touching the sides, and with a knife, the point being held inwards towards the center, make a circular incision pr the inner paste to prevent its closing up again. Make a lid with some of the remain- ing paste to fit in the wall of the vol-au-vcnt, brush the top over with beaten the paste on a baking-sheet and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. Put one ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of flour in a stewpan, stir it over the fire until well mixed, then pour in gradually one pint of stock and keep stirring over the fire until boiling. Put one wineglassful of sherry, two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketch- up and a little cayenne pepper in the sauce, move it to the side of the fire and let it simmer gently for fifteen minutes for the purpose of clarifying it; then skim it. put in a piece of glaze, put it on the fire and let it boil quickly for five minutes longer. When the glaze has dissolved, strain the sauce through a fine hair-sieve into another saucepan, put in it two partiallv-boiled calf's sweetbreads, three or four cockscombs, a few truffles and mushrooms, all cut up into fairly small pieces. Boil the sauce gently until the sweetbreads, etc., are cooked, then season to suit the taste with pep- per and salt. When cooked take the vol-au-vent out of the oven, remove the center carefully without damaging the case, put the above mixture into it and then cover with the lid. Place the vol-au-vent on a folded napkin on a hot dish and serve while verv hot. If the cases arc made and cooked before the mixture with which to fill them is ready, they can always be placed in an oven and warmed again. 274 VEAL. Sweetbreads, Waldorf. Disgorge some sweetbreads in cold water for one hour, change the water and boil them over a slow fire for half an hour, then refresh and lay them under a weight for another half hour; remove and lard with small fat pork lardings. Line the bottom of a saucepan with the fragments of fat pork, parsley roots, a slice or two of carrot and a minced onion; add a little white broth and the sweetbreads, and leave to simmer for half an hour. Dress them onto artichoke bottoms, laid on a dish, half a sweetbread on each, and serve with a brown sauce containing chopped truffles and small chicken quenelles. Sweetbreads with Black Butter. Boil the sweetbreads, and then press them between two plates until cold. Cut them into thin slices, and rub them in plenty of flour. Put one and one-half pounds of butter into a fryingpan, and stir it over the fire until frothy and brown, then put in the sweetbreads, and brown on both sides. When cooked place the sweetbreads on a hot dish, garnish with a few olives and slices of lemon, put a little of the browned butter over, and serve. Sweetbreads with Mushrooms. Boil the sweetbreads for twenty or twenty-five minutes, then cut them into small pieces, place them in a saucepan with an equal amount of chopped mushrooms, cover with a cream sauce and boil them for a few minutes. Turn the mixture onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Curried Tendons of Veal. Cut the tendons into equal-sized pieces, and braise them. When cooked, drain the tendons and press them between two plates till nearly cold. Strain the cooking li<]uor into another saucepan. Mix two tablespoonfuls of curry powder with two tablespoonfuls of flour, mixing them to a paste with a little water, then pour it in the strained liquor, and stir well over the fire until boiling. Trim the tendons neatly, put them in the curry, and boil gently for fifteen minutes. Put some slices of fat bacon on a dish, put the tendons on them, pour over the curry, and serve with a dish of plain boiled rice. Timbales of Veal. Trim dS all the skin from a fillet of veal, cut the meat into small pieces, place them in a mortar and pound them. Put half a dozen chicken's livers in a fryingpan with some fat bacon, to fry. Drain the livers, pound them, mix them with the pounded veal, season with mixed spices, pepper and salt, ami pass it through a fine VEAL. 275 hair sieve; then mix with it five tablespoonfuls of rather coarsely chopped cooked ham. Butter some small moulds, line them with a rich puff paste, and fill them with the mixture. Bake for about forty-five minutes in a moderate oven, then remove, and level the contents off to the same height as the moulds. Take the timbales out of the moulds, pour a little thick sauce in them, cover with some lids of puff paste that have been baked by themselves, arrange them on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve at once. Stewed Calf's Tongue and Brains. Place in hot water a boiled calf's tongue and a cooked brain, keeping the brain as whole as possible, and get them hot. Make a brown gravy by stirring one table- spoonful each of butter and flour over the fire until light brown, and then slowly stir in one pint of boiling water; season with one teaspoonful of salt, and pinch or two of pepper, and one gill of vinegar; lay the tongue and brain on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve at once. Or serve them with a hot sauce made bv mixing with a breakfast cupful of mayonnaise, one saltspoonful of dry mustard, one tablespoonful each of chopped parsley, capers and pickles, and one teaspoonful of grated onion. Calf's Tongue with Tomato Sauce. Trim and well wash a calf's tongue, place it in a saucepan of boiling water, and scald. Remove, drain and lard, put it into a saucepan with two carrots and two or three onions, three heads of cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and sufficient rich stock to moisten. Allow it to simmer gently for four hours. Take out the tongue when done, and slice it in halves, removing the skin; put them on a dish, and serve with tomato sauce poured over. Poultry. Cap ons. The instructions for preparing capons for cooking are as follows: For Cleaning and Trussing — Pluck off all the feathers and singe a capon, chop off the head close to the back, remove the crop, and loosen the liver and other inside- parts to the breast end. Cut around the vent, draw it clean, flatten the breast-bone with a cutlet bat, cut off the toenails and tuck the feet down close to the legs. FOR BOILING — Put the forefinger through the interior, under the skin of the legs, raise it, make holes in them, and push in the legs. Pass a skewer into the first joint of the pinion, bringthe middle of the leg close to it; push a skewer through the middle of the leg into the bodv, and repeat this operation on the other side. Place the liver and gizzard in the pinions, turn the ends or points on the back, and fasten the legs into position by tieing them with a string. Boiled Capon. Draw a fat capon, be careful not to remove the fat from the rump; peel about one-half pound of truffles, boil them in a little Madeira; take the trimmings of the truffles and pound them with an equal amount of breadcrumbs, add half a goose's lit liver, the whites of two eggs, and a few tablespoonfuls of scraped bacon; rub through a sieve. Truss the capon with its legs forced under the skin, rub it with lemon, and tie on it thin slices of bacon fat: put it in a pan with some slices of vegetables and bacon. Place in sufficient white broth to cover, and over all a piece of buttered paper, and boil gently. When cooked drain and take off the string. Put a layer of the forcemeat on a dish, put the capon over and garnish both sides with white cocks- combs. Boiled Barded Capon with Mushrooms. Take a young capon, singe and draw it, fill it within with bread-stuffing of veal or forcemeat, with the stems of some chopped mushrooms added. Put a slice of fat bacon on the breast, score a little and tie it on. Put it in a stewpan with enough unskimmed broth to cover it, add spices and aromatics to flavor. Place the pan on a slow fire, broil one hour. When it is cooked take it from the pan, skim off the tat from the stock, and make a little white sauce reduced with the liquor, in which a few mushrooms have been boiled. Add the yolks of two eggs to thicken it. When ready to serve, remove the string and bacon. 276 POULTRY. 277 Braised Capon. Take a capon, draw and truss it, put it into a braisingpan with half a pound of fat bacon, sliced; add one tablespoonful of butter and a pint of veal broth. Place it on a brisk fire, which will give the capon a brown color. Then remove it to a moderate fire, and put some hot coals or embers on the top, and braise the capon for an hour. Skim off the fat from the liquor, add half a pint of good stock, reduce it to a half- glaze, strain and pour over the capon. Capons may be stuffed with truffles, chest- nuts, sausages, olives, or plain veal stuffing. Braised Capon, Chipolata Style. Choose a fine young capon, draw and singe it, and truss as if for boiling. Peel a lemon, slice it, lay the slices on the capon, and support them with thin lavers of bacon fat. Tie them up, and put the capon into a stewpan spread with vegetables and trimmings of fat. .Allow it to cook for a few minutes, and add ten or twelve ounces of pickled pork. Then pour in sufficient good broth and white wine to cover one-hall" the height of the capon. Boil it up and put the capon on a moderate fire. so that it will braise slowlv. It will be necessary to turn it several times, and will require about an hour and a quarter to cook thoroughlv. When done, remove the pan from the fire, and twenty minutes before serving put about twenty small chipolata sausages, or one large common sausage (not too thick), into the pan. Chipolata sausages are made of poultrv meat, bacon, and bread-pulp. When ready take out the capon, strain through a sieve the cooking stock, remove the fat, and reduce it to half-glaze, adding a few tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce and two or three dozen fresh mushrooms. When it is sufficiently reduced add the sausages, the pork cut into squares, twenty-four cooked chestnuts, ami the same number of small glazed onions. Place the capon on a dish, garnish with onions, sausages, etc., and serve with the sauce. Braised Capon, Financiere. Take one capon; pluck, singe and draw it, remove the forked part of the breast- bone, fill the crop skin with butter seasoned with pepper and salt, and truss the capon in the same way you would for roasting. Lard the breast with strips of bacon fat, and tie some slices of fat bacon over the remainder of the capon; that is, the parts not larded. Put it into the braisingpan with a sufficient quantity of good stock to come above the pinions, then lav a round of buttered paper over the capon, cover over the pan, and let it simmer for an hour. Remove the paper and glaze the parts that are larded. Then make a ragout of foies gras, cut in scallops, mushrooms, and some small chicken quenelles mixed in financiere sauce, and put it on a dish round a block of fried bread, made by cutting the crumb of bread in the shape of a block eight inches in height, six inches square at the base, and three and one-half inches square 2 ;8 POULTRY. at the top; fry this in some boiling fat, let it drain, and it is then ready for use. It can be fixed to the dish with a little paste made of egg and flour. Arrange the capon with its crop downward, and place two geese's fat livers, studded with small truffles, between them on the other two sides of the bread. Range a crayfish on either side of the geese's fat livers, and cockscomb on the top. Put a larded sweetbread on the top of the bread support, then garnish three silver skewers with cockscombs, cravfish and mushrooms, in the order named, and thrust them into the capon and sweetbreads. Put some financiere sauce in a sauceboat, and serve. Braised Capon, Godard Style. Prepare and cook one capon as for braised capons, financiere, but do not lard the breasts. Then make a stew of cockscombs, truffles and mushrooms moistened with Godard sauce. Prepare a dish with a bread support and croutons of fried bread round the edge; pour in the stew and garnish with cockscomb, truffles, some larded sweet- breads, and a large quenelle ornamented with truffles and tongues in the following order: a larded sweetbread on each of the sides and one on the top of the bread and a quenelle on top of the two sweetbreads; put that on the dish by the side of the bread; place a truffle on the top of each quenelle and one on each side of the sweetbreads, leaving a little space between and a cockscomb in the space left between the sweetbreads and the truffles and one at the base of the capon. Then take a silver skewer and put two cockscombs and a truffle on it and thrust it into the bread support between the legs of the capon. Serve some Godard sauce separately in a sauceboat. Braised Capon with Sweetbread and Truffles. Prepare and truss a capon as for capons, financiere. Then make a stew of chicken quenelles and cut mushrooms mixed in a Regenctf sauce. When the capon is done, drain and place it on a dish and lean it against a block of fried bread with the crop downwards. Then place one braised sweetbread below the capon and one on the top of the bread. Put a cravfish on each side of the sweetbread except the sweet I nead on the top and a truffle on each cravfish. Serve with some Regence sauce in a sauceboat. Capon Pic. Separate the flesh from the bones of a cold roasted capon and cut it into slices with the exception of the thighs and pinions, which should be left whole. Remove the skin from and boil about one-hall' pound of chestnuts, chop fine in equal quantities some thyme, sweet marjoram and pennyroyal; line a pastrypan with paste, put in it the thighs and pinions and strew over them a quantity of minced onions; then put in flesh of tin- bird with four sweetbreads and half a dozen oysters cut in halves, season POULTRY. 279 them with sweet herbs, salt, cloves, grated nutmeg and a bit of mace; cover with the chest- nuts and put a few small pieces of butter over. Close the pan and bake the pasty in a quick oven. Meanwhile prepare a sauce with gravy, stock, drawn butter, two or three boned and filleted anchovies and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. When cooked, garnish the pasty with slices of lemon, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Roasted Capons. Cut off the first joint of the pinions, beat the breastbone flat with a rolling pin, push a skewer through the pinion bringing the middle of the legs close, pass a skewer through the legs, body, and remaining pinion, twist the neck, and fasten the head on the skewer the bill pointing forwards ; pass another skewer through the sides, and fasten the legs close on either side. Run a skewer through all, and the capon is ready for cooking. Roasted Capons with Noodles. Prepare a capon, as for braised capons, financiere, covering the breast with slices of bacon-fat instead of larding them. Wrap some brown paper round the capon, and roast it before a good tire. When it is done move it from the spit, and take off the bacon, Moisten some noodles with German sauce, and add to this some Parmesan cheese and chicken glaze. Place the noodles on a dish two inches in thick- ness, put the capon on them, and serve with German sauce. Stewed Capon, French Style. Pluck, singe and draw a capon, wipe it thoroughly both inside and out, rub it well with lemon and truss ; tie some slices of bacon fat over, put it into a saucepan with an onion cut in slices, pour over one breakfast cupful of good stock or gravy, and stew gently on the side of the fire until the bird is done. Place it on a dish, and Instructions for Cleaning a Chicken. Lay the bird on its back with its tail toward you, cut a circle around the vent to he bowels, then turn the chicken about so that the breast is toward you and the head and neck hanging over the 0.1^0 of the table. Open the neck at the back, cut- ting lengthwise along the bone, and when this incision is long enough draw the skinned neck in a loop through the incision. Chop off the neck at the base and then cut through the skin of the neck across the slit so as to leave a (lap about two inches long. Next insert the fingers through the opening in the neck and draw out the entrails, taking every care not to break them. If they should be burst by any acci- dent the interior of the carcass must be washed out and dried. If the entrails are sound the inside may be dried by wiping out with a cloth. Singe the chicken and 28c POULTRY. the legs especially until the skin will peel off bv drawing a cloth along them. Shorten the toes and spurs bv clipping them and the bird is then readv for trussing. Some cooks cut off the feet just below the joint where the feathered legs commence; for boiling it is well to do this, but for roasting it is not necessary. If the poulterer cleans the bird it may be cut up for an entree as follows: Split the chicken into halves lengthwise by cutting down the middle of the back with a sharp knife, laving the fowl wide open and chopping through the breast bone from the inside. Lav one-half on the board and chop slantingly through the end of the drumstick at the hip joint or a little on the fleshy side of it; next cut off the side bone and tail end, leaving as much meat as possible on the body, a little of which may be taken from the thigh. Cut off the second joint by chopping straight across the chicken, therebv dividing the quarters into three pieces of equal weight. Cut off the two small joints of the wing; chop off the main joint slantwise so that it will have attached to it a piece of the neckbone and a small part of the flesh of the breast. There will then remain nearly the entire breast, which should be chopped straight across to make two pieces. Cut up the other half of the foul in the same way. The object of cutting up a fowl in this way is to provide for each person a piece of meat of equal size and appearance. Treated otherwise one would have all meat and another a dark-looking, bare piece of bone. Boning a Chicken. Break the bones of the bird just above the feet by giving them a blow with a knife, cut the skin round and give the feet a twist, thus breaking them off and with them the strong sinews of the legs. Chop off the wings just above the second joint. Slit the skin of the neck and pull it out, cut it off close and trim the skin neatly. Make an incision along the back from the neck to the tail, then separate the flesh from the bones beginning at the neck end. When the wing bone is reached disjoint it from the carcass, make a slit along the inside of the wing and remove the bone, then disjoint the thigh bone from the carcass. Proceed the same with the other side. Work along each side, detaching the breast and being verv careful not to break the skin, especially over the breast, where it is verv tender; then remove the carcass; make an incision along the thigh, dissect the bone from the flesh, scrape the flesh of the leg along the bone and then pull it out in such a way as to draw out the remaining sinews with it. If very old and tough the chicken may be made tender in the following manner* Cut it up into joints; put these into a deep pan with sufficient slightly salted water to cover; set the pan in the oven and let it remain until the bones can be easily pulled out. It will require three or four hours for this. As the water boils away more boiling water must be added so as to have the meat always covered. Now draw out all the bones, remove the skin and sinews, and the flesh will be quite tender and fit for using in stews, curries or such like dishes. POULTRY. 281 Trussing Chickens, Fowls, Turkeys, Etc. Turkeys and fowls are trussed in the same way, so that what is said of one will do for the other. As there is a good deal to say on this subject it will be well to observe that when drawn according to the directions given under their respective headings the free use of the flour-mop or dredger is an absolute necessity, otherwise the bird will have a most revolting appearance, being besmeared with blood and other discoloring substances from the inside, and would be anything but attractive or appetizing. The first thing to do with a fowl is to clean or "draw " it. When you have done this single it, chop off the toes of the claws, leaving about one-fourth of an inch, and serve the spurs in the same wW; then chop off the pointed tips of the pinions and turn the wings in so as to make triangles on the back of the bird, the tips being pushed over the fust joints. Let it be said here, once lor all, that the practice of fixing the gizzard and liver into the wings has long since been done away with, both being useful for other pur- poses, but spoiled by roasting or baking. Having arranged the wings, lav the fowl on its back, and so that it will be on its folded wings also; then grip both thighs with one hand, and with a long packing nee- dle threaded with twine (white in preference), pierce through the thighs and body in the bend of the joint. Draw the string through ami push the needle under the joint of the wing nearest the leg alongside~of it, then cut through the middle of the chick part, taking a stitch through the flap of the neck, drawn tightly down, stitching it on- to the back, then through the opposite pinion. Press the leg into an even position and square the fowl nicely before you; when it is evenly and neatly shaped, tie the ends ot the string fairly tight, That done press the leg down and pass the needle through the leg and body to the other side; thaw it tightly and return through the flesh over the outside of the backbone, through again to the joint where the two ends are tied. Finally, cut a small slit in the apron just above the vent and force the cush- ion of the tail through this hole so that it remain in the bird out of sight. When fowls are stuffed the stuffing is pushed through the hole where the vent was before the tail was tucked in, and thrust clear up to the breast, filling it out like a crop. Should there be any difficulty in making the vent keep in its place, a small skewer must be used. Some cooks cut the feet off at the ankle joints; that is, where the scaly part joins tin feathers, and this practice is a good one; but when it is decided to leave the legs on they must be singed or rather burnt until the outer skin can be stripped off by drawing a cloth firmly along it. Take care to see that both the knots of the trussing- twine are on the same side of the bird, as they are more easily removed after cooking. Pheasants, pigeons and partridges can be trussed for roasting in a similar manner to that described above. Fowls and turkeys for broiling or braising require a somewhat different manner 282 POULTRY. of trussing. Make an incision in the leg down to the bone, then insert the fingers in the vent and loosen the skin from the flesh all round the thigh. When the limb is thoroughly loosened from the skin lift the cut edge nearest the bodv of the bird, and. folding the limb, thrust it under the skin until it can be seen. The strings arc then fastened over the feet. The great difficulty about this latter method of trussing is to get the legs well under the skin without breaking it. The insufficient loosening of the skin is generally the prime cause of the trouble. Geese and ducks are trussed by turning the wings under and fastening the legs close to the sides by skewers. When, as is sometimes the case, the feet of the duck- are left on, the joint is severed and the toes cut off, and the feet scalded and peeled; the bird is then trussed in the usual manner. The feet are tied under the back against the points of the wings. Chicken. Bechamel Sauce. Put into a large saucepan two onions cut in quarters with one ounce of butter and fry for a few minutes. Cut about a pound and a half or two pounds of fillet of veal into small pieces and put these in with the onions, also two chickens from which the fillets have been removed, seasoning them with salt and pepper; fry the meats for a few minutes, then dredge in half a pound of flour, stir it over the fire and pour in gradually three quarts of stock, add a bunch of sweet herbs and continue stirring until it boils. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, put on the lid and let the contents simmer for two hours. The fat should be skimmed off frequently. Strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve into another stewpan and boil it quickly, adding a pint of thick cream in three separate portions. When the sauce is reduced to such a consistency that it coats the spoon, strain it through a broth napkin into a basin, and stir it until cold. Boiled Chicken. Put one quart of broth into a stewpan over the stove, and when it boils put in a cleaned and trussed fowl or chicken and season with an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs and a little salt and pepper. When the fowl is done, dish it up, garnish with pieces of fried bacon, and serve with white sauce. Boiled Chickens, Providence Style. Singe, draw and wipe two chickens, truss them from the wing to the leg with a needle, and boil them in a saucepan of broth for three-quarters of an hour. Prepare one pint of allemande sauce with the broth of a chicken, adding one teacupful each ot finely cut boiled carrot and cooked lima beans or flageolets, and cook for three minutes longer. Dish up the fowls, untruss, pour over the sauce, arrange the vege- tables on either side, and serve with chopped parsley sprinkled over. POULTRY. 283 Boiled Chickens, Royal Style. Truss two chickens as for boiling, lard their breasts thoroughly and place them in a stewpan with stock up to the larding; then cover them over with a piece of buttered paper, put a tight-fitting lid on the pan and let them gently simmer until done. While they are cooking, cut a croustade of bread in the shape of a vase, and fry it; put this in the center of the dish, place the fowls on either side, garnish the dish with a garnishing of cockscombs, truffles, mushrooms and ham, cut in fancy shapes and pour over one pint of good white sauce, previously made hot. The croustade should have fine, ornamented, fancy skewers stuck in it, upon which may be arranged some of the pieces out of the garnishing, and two or three crayfish. Boiled Stuffed Chicken. Fill the bodv of a cleansed fowl or chicken with small onions, which have been half cooked in milk. Roil the giblets with some onions and two or three slices of bacon, and when done, strain the gravy in a saucepan, put in the fowl and simmer until quite tender. Boil three large onions in a quart of milk, and when it is reduced to half its original quantity, thicken with half a teacupful of Hour that has been smoothly moistened with milk. Stir the sauce over the tire until thick; add two pats of butter and a little pepper and salt and stir by the side of the fire until the butter is dissolved. Dish the fowl, pour the sauce over, ami serve. Boiled Chicken with Onions. Take a young, fat chicken, singe, draw and truss it for boiling; put it into a buttered saucepan with a pint of white broth, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over, place the pan over a moderate fire and cook gently for thirty minutes. Blanch one pound of small onions, place them in the pan with the chicken and cook gently for thirty minutes longer. Whilst the chicken is cooking, it should be turned two or three times. Pour the broth and onions over, and serve. Boiled Chicken with Poulette Sauce. boil a chicken in broth seasoned with an onion stuck with three cloves, a bunch ol sweet herbs and a little salt and pepper. Turn half a pound of mushrooms and pre- pare one pound of poulette sauce. When the fowl is done, dish it, garnish with the mushrooms, pour the sauce over, and serve. Boiled Chicken with Rice. Singe, draw and truss a chicken and boil it for fifteen minutes; add one onion stuck with three cloves, one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper and a bunch of sweet herbs. Take out the onions and herb and put in a breakfast cupful of well washed 284 POULTRY. rice and boil until the rice is tender ; dish the fowl, add a teacupful of gravy or stock to the liquor in which it was boiled; pour the gravy and rice around the foul, and serve. Boiled Chicken with Tarragon Sauce. Take a large chicken, singe, truss and draw; put a piece of butter mixed with a handful of tarragon leaves inside ; cover it with thin slices of fat bacon, put it in a saucepan with the neck, gizzard and some pieces of trimmings of veal ; add one tea- cupful of Madeira wine, sufficient broth to cover, and some fat skimmed off some rich stock. When boiling, stand the saucepan at the side of the fire and simmer for three- quarters of an hour. Take the chicken out when it is cooked, strain and skim the liquor, thicken with a little roux, put in a small bunch of tarragon leaves, and boil for twenty minutes. Skim, strain and reduce the sauce, thicken it with the beaten yolks of two eggs and stir over the fire until it comes to a boil ; then add a small piece of butter and one tablespoonful of blanched green tarragon leaves. Dish the chicken, pour the sauce over, and serve. Braised Chickens. Take three young fat chickens and cut them into quarters; put a little butter at the bottom of a saucepan, and when it is melted add a layer of sweet herbs, a little onion, shallot and mushrooms, all chopped fine, and a large bunch of parslev. Place the legs first, and then the remainder of the fowls on them, sprinkle over a lit- tle more sweet herbs, cover over the pan, set it on the fire and place hot ashes on the lid. Let this cook for twenty minutes or so, then put the meat on a dish, pour a little melted glaze over the herbs, then pour over the chicken, and serve. Braised Chickens, Montmorcncv Stvle. Select a couple of chickens of equal size, draw and singe them and fill the insides with a paste made of butter, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and tie them up into shape. Put a saucepan of water on the fire, and when it boils dip the breasts of the birds in for a few minutes to make the meat firm. Lard the breast with thin strips of fat pork; put the chickens into an oval-shaped saucepan with several layers of fat pork around, but not over them; add a little good, freshly made broth (for if it has not been made fresh it will turn the meat red) to moisten; place the pan on the fire and cover the lid over with hot ashes to cook the bacon quickly; when this is a good brown color the ashes may be taken off and the fowls left to cook for thirty minutes very gently. Then take them out, remove the string and dish with a financiere garnishing. Braised Chickens, Printaniere. Take a large fowl or chicken, singe, draw ami truss and put in a stewpan, add eight ounces of chopped I. aeon and fry the bird lightly. Scald and chop in small POULTRY. 285 squares about half a pound of streaky bacon; put it in a stewpan with four small car- rots and onions, season with salt, add a tcacupful of broth; put the lid on the stewpan with some live embers on the top, stand it over a moderate fire and finish braising. Dish the chicken, mix some cooked peas with the vegetables and garnish the dish with them. Stir and mix an equal quantity of white sauce with the liquor, boil for a few minutes, strain, pour it over, and serve. Broiled Chickens. Take a chicken, clean, singe and split it down the back; break the joints, take- out the breast-bone and wipe the bird clean; dust a little pepper and salt over it, rub with warm butter, put on a gridiron over a good, clear fire, and broil for twenty minutes or so. Place it on a dish with some more butter over and serve quite hot. To carve this, separate the legs and wings from the body, and then the breast from the lower parts. Broiled Chicken Cutlets. Cut off the larger fillets of four chickens without injuring the small fillets; cut the wishbone in halves, take off the small fillets, remove the skin and make them into the shape of hearts, sticking the wishbones into the ends or points so as to make them look like cutlets. Sprinkle them with plenty of salt and pepper, brush them on both sides with egg and cover with breadcrumbs; next dip them into melted butter, then into crumbs again, smooth them over with a knife and broil over a good fire until of light brown. Pour some Spanish sauce on a dish, put the cutlets on it and serve. If preferred, they may be fried in butter. Broiled Chickens with Bacon. Singe two chickens, draw and wipe them ; cut off their heads and then split them lengthwise without separating. Place them on a dish, season with salt, pepper and one tablespoonful of sweet oil, turn them well in the seasoning and broil for nine minutes on each side. Prepare six small toasts on a hot dish, arrange the chickens Over, spread half a gill of maitrc d'hotel butter on top and add six thin slices of boiled bacon. Capilotade of Chicken. Take some remains of cold roasted chickens and cut them into pieces. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of Hour and stir over the fire until well mixed; then put in a few chopped herbs and some mushrooms that have -cabled and cut up into small pieces, and fry them; when browned, pour over half a pint of white wine and an equal quantity of broth and boil gently for twenty minutes. Put the pieces of chicken into the sauce ami stew them slowly for about fifteen minutes. Turn the stew onto a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread, and serve. 286 POULTRY. Chicken Croquettes. Take two chickens weighing about three pounds each, put them into a saucepan with water to cover, add two onions and carrots, a small bunch of parsley and thyme, a few cloves and half a grated nutmeg, and boil until the birds are tender; then remove the skin, gristle and sinews and chop the meat as fine as possible. Put into a saucepan one pound of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir over the fire for a few minutes and add half a pint of the liquor the chickens were cooked in and one pint of rich cream, and boil for eight or ten minutes, stirring continually. Remove the pan from the fire, season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg and a little powdered sweet marjoram, add the chopped meat and stir well. Then stir in rapidly the yolks of four eggs, place the saucepan on the fire for a minute, stirring well, turn the mass onto a dish, spread it out and let it get cold. Cover the hands with flour and form the preparation into shapes, dip them into egg beaten with cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs and let them stand for half an hour or so to dry; then fry them a delicate color after plunging into boiling lard. Take them out, drain, place on a napkin on a dish and serve. The remainder of the chicken stock may be used for making consomme or soup. Chicken Croquettes, Perigourdin. Prepare some croquettes composed of chicken, mushrooms, two truffles cut into small square pieces and one ounce of cooked smoked tongue in small pieces. Fry them for four minutes, and serve. Heat half a pint of Madeira sauce, add to it one chopped truffle and six chopped mushrooms. Cook for five minutes, and serve in a sauceboat. Chicken Croquettes, Queen Style. Make a croquette preparation of chicken and mushroom, roll it into eight cork shaped pieces, dip each one separately in beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs. Fry them in very hot fat for four minutes, drain thoroughly and place them on a hot dish over a folded napkin. Serve with half a pint of hot Queen sauce in a sauceboat. Curried Chicken. Singe and draw a chicken weighing about three pounds and cut the flesh into square pieces; put these in cold water tor five minutes, wash them well, drain and put them in a saucepan filling it up to the surface with hot water; season with salt. pepper and grated nutmeg. Add a hunch of sweet herbs and six small onions and cook on a moderate fire for forty-five minutes, skimming well. Take another sauce- pan, place in it a gill and a half of white roux. moisten it with all of the broth from the chicken, and mix well together. Prepare a tahlespoonful of diluted curry with the yolks of four eggs and the juice of half a lemon, heat all well together and pour it POULTRY. 287 into the sauce a little at a time, stirring continually and not allowing it to boil. Pour the sauce over the chicken which remains in the saucepan, dress immediately on a hot dish, garnish with boiled rice, and serve. Curried Chicken, Creole Style. ( Prepare and cook the same as Curried Chicken) adding one green pepper cut very fine, one chopped onion and half a clove of garlic; cook for twenty minutes with the chicken. Curried Chicken, Spanish Style. Prepare the same as for curried chicken, adding two tomatoes cut up and one green pepper; cook for ten minutes with the chicken. Chicken Custard. Put one breakfast cupful each of chicken stock and cream into a saucepan and boil; then pour them over the yolks of three well-beaten eggs, put them into the bain-marie, add a little salt, and cook until the mixture thickens a little. Let it get cold, put it into custard cups, and serve. Chicken Cutlets. Take a cold boiled chicken, chop it into dice, and put it into a stewpan to cook with half its bulk of raw truffles, also cut into dice, four tablespoonfuls of quenelle forcemeat, and two tablespoonfuls of reduced vcloute sauce. Divide this mixture into eight equal parts, and roll them on a well floured board, making them into the shape of cutlets, and sticking a small bone in the thin end. Dip them one by one first into beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs, taking care that the crumbs are equally distributed over them; plunge them into a frvingpan with butter, and fry until colored. Take them out, drain on a cloth, put a paper frill on each bone, and arrange them in a circle on a dish with a mince of vegetables in the center. Deviled Chicken. Make a mixture of cayenne, salt, mustard, grated lemon peel, lemon juice, sherry wine, ami Worcestershire sauce, or any other except anchovy. Cut off some slices of cooked chicken, butter, lay them in the mixture and let them soak for some time. Put sauce and all into a saucepan over the fire. Do not let it boil, and serve very hot. Braised Fillets of Chicken. Cut off some fillets of chicken and with a Iarding-nccdlc lard each of them with four strips of pork ; put a slice of fat pork for each fillet on the bottom of a braising 288 POULTRY. pan and on top of the pork, a little piece of onion ; sprinkle the fillets over with salt, pepper and flour, place them on the top of the pork and onion, pour in two pints of stock, cover over the pan and cook for an hour or so, basting frequently. A little more water or stock may be required if the other boils away, so that when it is completely done at the end of the hour there will be about one pint left in the pan ; take out the fillets, drain them, cover with slightly warmed butter and dust them over with flour again ; then place them on a gridiron over the fire and broil them until they are a light brown color. After the meat has been removed from the gravy, skim off the fat ; put one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of flour into a sauce- pan and cook until of a light brown; then add it to the gravy, and boil up again. Place the fillets on a dish, and pour the sauce around them, or put them on a heap of mashed potatoes, with a little parsley at the edge and the sauce poured around. Epigrammes of Chicken Fillets. Cut off the fillets from three chickens, trim, put them into a sautepan with clarified butter, give them a curve in the pan, pour more butter over, place a sheet of buttered paper over all, set the pan in the oven or over the fire, and cook until the flesh is done. Cut off the legs, bone them, put them in a saucepan with a little mirepoix braise, take them out when done and press between them two dishes until cold ; now dip them into warm reduced allemande sauce, next in breadcrumbs, then in cj;i<; and breadcrumbs again. Stick a piece of bone in the thin end of each, plunge them into boiling fat, and fry. Have ready a hollow croustade of bread, place in the center of a dish, arrange the fillets around alternately with the legs, fill the croustade with mush- rooms or other puree, and serve with allemande sauce in a tureen. Fried Chicken Fillets with Mushrooms. Take half a pound of white mushrooms, peel and turn, put their trimmings into a stewpan, and the mushrooms into a frvingpan with half a teacupful of water, a small piece of butter and a little salt. Boil the mushrooms for three or four min- utes, then strain their liquor into the stewpan with the trimmings, add one pint of bechamel sauce, and boil it until rather thickly reduced; then pass it through a fine hair sieve, return it to the stewpan, put in the mushrooms, one teaspoonful of sugar. mix half a teacupful of milk, and boil it up again. Trim the fillets of a fowl, put them in a frvingpan with a lump of butter, and fry them over a moderate fire. When cooked the fillets should be quite white. Serve on a hot dish with the mushrooms in the center. Larded Fillets of Chicken. Take ten, without removing the small or minion fillets and lard each on the smooth surface with five strips of bacon; sprinkle them over with salt and pepper, arrange them in a frvingpan close together on a lew slices of bacon, add a little POULTRY. 289 butter and put them on the fire for two or three minutes, then place the pan in a moderate oven and leave it for five minutes longer. Glaze them with a paste brush and cook to a good color, leaving them a little underdone. Make a mince of black truffles, with a little Madeira added; put in the center of a dish, place the fillets in a circle leaning against it, with the sharp pointed ends uppermost, and serve. Chicken Fillets, Perigord Style. Take two cold braised chickens, cut off the fillets and divide each into halves. Put in a mortar two ounces of goose's fat liver, pound and rub it through a fine hair sieve. Chop an onion finely, put it in a saucepan with a small lump of butter, pass it over the fire for a few minutes and then pour in one breakfast cupful of white sauce that has been boiled until thicklv reduced. When on the point of boiling, put in the pounded fat liver and stir in quickly the beaten volks of two eggs. Leave the sauce until cold. Coat the fillets with the cold sauce, dip them in well-beaten roll them in breadcrumbs, then beat them lightly with a knife, and repeat the operation. Plunge the fillets into a stewpan half full of boiling lard, and fry them until browned; then drain, arrange in a border of mashed potatoes, garnish the center with fried water cresses, and serve with a sauceboatful of gravy. Chicken, Princess Style. Cut off the fillets from five chickens, pare and flatten them a little with a knife- handle. Shape their largest sides a good round, trim them to a point to resemble cutlets, sprinkle over with salt and cover with a cloth. Take a saucepan ami put in it five ounces of butter, melt, let it settle, and pass it through a strainer. Make some highly-flavored forcemeat from the flesh off the legs, put it into a well-buttered plain border mould, and place it in the bain-marie to poach. In the meantime, boil a pickled beef tongue in salted water, and keep it hot; peel fifteen small raw truffles, and keep them covered over until wanted. Next prepare some stock with the bones of the birds, vegetables, sweet herbs, white wine and broth. When cooked strain it. add the truffle trimmings and reduce it to half glaze; add its equal bulk of brown sauce and boil for a few minutes ; then pass it through a cloth into another smaller saucepan, put in the raw truffles, add two or three tablespoonfuls of sherry and boil again very slowlv for eight or nine minutes. Now pour the clarified butter into aflat saucepan, put the fillets in close to each other, place the pan on the fire and cook them on both sides for about two minutes, then take them out and drain well. Take out the tongue, drain, skin and cut it up, in a slanting direction, into as many slices as there are fillets, shaping them like these. Now turn the border out onto a dish, and place the fillets and slices of tongue, glazed with a paste brush, alternately around it, with the truffles in the center. Pour a little of the sauce over the truffles, and serve the remainder in a boat. 2 9 o POULTRY. Chicken Fillets, Sauted. Cut off nine fillets of chickens, pound them lightly with a vegetable masher, dust over with salt and pepper and cover well with flour. Put one tablespoonful of butter tor each fillet into a fryingpan; when it is quite hot put in the fillets and fry them for twenty minutes, turning them so that both sides will be browned. Take them out and put them in front of the fire to keep warm. To every six tablespoonfuls of butter used add two more to the pan, and when it is melted mix in one tablespoonful of flour; as soon as this begins to brown add gradually one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of cold milk, stirring continually; boil for a minute and add salt, pepper and a little mus- tard. Put a pile of mashed potatoes or green peas in the center of a dish, place the fillets against it, and serve with the sauce poured around. Chicken Fillets Sauted, Royal Style. Cut off the fillets of two chickens, which will be four large ones and four small, called minion fillets, being the inside fillets, and flatten them a little with the handle of a knife dipped in water. Remove the coarse upper skin, take out the sinews from the small fillets and dip each one separately into butter; then sprinkle them overwith salt, put them into a sautepan, and fry lightly. When done take them out, drain and put them in a circle on a dish. Add a little cream and one tablespoonful or so of well-seasoned bechamel sauce to the butter in the pan. Let it thicken over the fire for a while and pour it over the fillets. Prepare a garnishing of kidneys, mushrooms, quenelles, cockscombs and truffles. Place them in the center of a dish, and serve. Chicken Fillets Sauted with Truffle Sauce. Cut the fillets off two chickens, separating the smaller from the larger ones, trim and put in a sautepan with a pat of butter and fry slowly, keeping them white; pour about three-quarters of a pint of bechamel sauce into a saucepan with half a pint of white stock and boil until thickly reduced; then strain it through a fine hair-sieve into another saucepan, add four or five sliced truffles and boil up again; then mix in a half teacupful of thick cream, and season with a small quantity of salt and sugar. When cooked put the fillets on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Chicken Fillets, Villeroy. Take the fillets from four chickens and sprinkle them with salt and pepper; put them in a fryingpan with a little butter to cook, taking care to let them be rather underdone. Place them on a board with another one on the top and a slight weight onto that; afterward cut them into shapes. Take them one at a time and dip into hot chaudfroid sauce and put them on a baking sheet at a little distance From one another. Let them get quite cool, remove the superfluous sauce, cover them fust POULTRY. 291 with breadcrumbs, then dip them into egg and then into crumbs again. Put a few of them at a time into a fryingpan of boiling fat and as soon as they are of a fine color take them out and put them in a circle on a folded napkin on a dish, placing a little parsley, slightly fried, in the center. Chicken Fillets with Asparagus. Take two fat birds and cut them up so that the breast and breast-bone will be one piece and the back and legs another. Put the back parts into a saucepan with one gallon of water, and, when it boils, add the breasts. When these have boiled for an hour or so and are quite tender, take them out and let them cool. Put a few vege- tables in the liquor and boil fast until it is reduced to one-half its original bulk; then strain it through a cloth into another saucepan and add two tablespoonfuls of each of butter and flour previously worked together in a pan over the fire, to thicken it, and place the pan on the side of the fire where its contents will simmer gently. Skim frequently, and when the liquor is reduced to one quart pour in a small quantity of mushroom liquor, prepared by boiling button mushrooms in stock. Reduce again, and when it is less than one quart and getting thick add one tablcspoonful of butter, a little lemon juice, salt and cayenne. Have in the meantime one breakfast cupful of cream boiling, add it to the liquor in the other pan a little at a time to make it the required consistence and then pass all through a strainer. Cut the meat away from the breastbone and trim it into shape, plunge the pieces into boiling chicken broth to get thoroughly warmed through, place them on a dish and pour the sauce over them. Cut from the stalks some asparagus heads, boil them in salted water like peas, drain, shake in a pan with melted butter, and place on the dish with the fillets. Chicken Fillets, with Mushroom Puree. Roast three chickens, having them not quite done. Remove them from the spit, let them get cold and then lift off the fillets from the backs, also the legs and the breasts, trimming and taking off all the skin. Put three teacupfuls of yellow sauce into a pan with a teacupful and a half of aspic jelly, both slightly warmed. Place the pan on the ice and stir until moderately thick; then remove the pan from the ice- dip the pieces of fowl singly into the sauce, covering them entirely, and arrange them side by side on a baking sheet. Fill a border mould with cooked rice, let it set, turn it out onto a dish, fill the center with a puree of mushroom, heaping it up. Arrange the fillets around on top of the border. Chicken Fricassee. Take a chicken weighing about three pounds, cut it into pieces and steep these in cold water lor an hour. Drain and put them in a large saucepan pan with an onion with three cloves stuck in it, a bunch of sweet herbs, a saltspoonful each of 2 9 2 POULTRY. salt and pepper, and one cpaart of water. When the water boils skim it. move it to the side of the fire and let it simmer for half an hour with the lid partly off. Take out the pieces of fowl, drain and let them cool for a few minutes in cold water. Keep the liquor in which they were cooked. Put three tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour in a stewpan. stir them over the fire until smooth, but not brown; add the broth and the liquor in which a can of mushrooms have been cooked, and simmer for half an hour. Warm the pieces of fowl in half a pint of the sauce in a separate pan. Beat the volks of four eggs; add one tablespoonful of melted butter and stir the sauce over the fire until thick, but not boiling; strain the gravy and then add the mushrooms. Put the two back pieces of the fowl in the middle of the dish and arrange on them one above the other, first the feet, then the two pieces of neck, and lastly the pinions. Rest the legs and wings against the sides of the square and put the pieces of breast on the top. Arrange the mushrooms round the dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. Chicken Fricassee, American Style. Boil two fowls, cut them into twelve pieces, put them into a saucepan with eight minced mushrooms, one ounce of cooked salted pork cut into small squares, and half a pint of allemande sauce. Warm thoroughly without boiling, and serve with anv desired garnish. Chicken Fricassee, Bonne Femme. Prepare and cut a chicken up as for a fricassee; slice an onion and a carrot, put them in a large stewpan with six ounces of butter and fry for five minutes, stirring contiuuallv. Put in the chicken and one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper and stir over the fire for five minutes longer; then work in three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir for two or three minutes, add three or four tomatoes cut in pieces and a pint and a half of broth. Stir over the fire until boiling, then move the stewpan to the side and simmer for half an hour. Take a pint and a half of mushrooms cut in slices and some chopped parsley, and put into the liquor; boil for ten minutes longer, on a hot dish. Chicken Fricassee, Peasant Style. Cut into slices or small pieces a few onions, carrots and celerv roots and put them into a saucepan with a little olive oil and a bunch of sweet herb?, being careful that the vegetables are fresh and tender. Cut up two fowls into five pieces each, put the legs in the saucepan over the vegetables, sprinkle over cavenne to taste, add a little sauce and set the pan over a good fire for five minutes or so to cook; then take the pan off the fire, cover and put it in a hot oven so that the legs will be slowly and thoroughly done. Turn them often and then add the fillets and pieces of breast and a couple of large tomatoes wfth the seeds taken out and each one cut into six cover the pan over again, return to the oven and let it remain for fifteen minutes POULTRY. 93 longer; take it out and place the pieces of chicken-meat in a pile on a dish. Remove the fat from the liquor, take out the bunch of sweet herbs and put in a few blanched olives; thicken with a little melted glaze, boil up once, add a small quantity of finely- minced tarragon leaves, pour all over the chicken in the dish, and serve. Fried Chicken. Take a chicken, pluck, singe and wipe it with a wet towel, and cut in joints. Put into a frvingpan one pint of cream and place it over a moderate fire until it begins to color, then put in the chicken and fry until the underside is of a light brown. Take out a part of the cream, turn the chicken over, season with pepper, and finish cooking it. Put it on a hot dish when done, and pour the cream which was taken out back into the frvingpan, stir it well with what remains in the pan, let it boil once, and serve it with the chicken sprinkled with salt. A small chicken may be breaded, either whole or in quarters, and fried brown in smoking fat. Fried Chicken, Marengo Styl< Cut up a chicken and trim the pieces. Put plenty of oil in a stewpan with a minced clove of garlic and a small bundle of sweet herbs; when boiling put in the pieces of fowl, season with salt and pepper and fry them. When cooked strain nearly one teacupful of oil from the saucepan into a small stew pan; mix with it a moderate quantity each of finely-chopped mushrooms, shallots and parsley, and one wine-glass- ful of white wine and sufficient clear stock, freed from fat, to make the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and boil the sauce for about a quarter of an hour, Pile the pieces of fowl on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with croutons of bread fried brown in butter, and some button mushrooms, and serve. Fried Chicken, Mcrcier Style. Pluck a chicken, clean and truss as if for roasting, sprinkle it well with flour, plunge it into boiling fat to cover, and fry for fully twenty minutes. Take it out, drain and cut it into joints, cover them over separately with rich forcemeat beaten up with egg, and place them in the oven for a few minutes for the forcemeat to set. In the meantime whip the whites ot two or three eggs to a stiff froth, color this with three colors, leaving a part white, decorate the forcemeat with these, place the pieces of fowl in the oven for a moment to set, and serve immediately. Fried Chicken, Vanderbilt Style. Prepare and clean a chicken, and commencing from the neck, remove the skin from the flesh all around, including the legs; then stuff it with veal and tongue force- meat, taking care not to fill it too full, onlv over the wishbone, and to fill all the cavities, making it plump and round. Then truss it as if for roasting, plunge into 294 POULTRY. boiling fat sufficient to cover it, and fry a golden brown. Serve hot with piquant sauce, or cold, with salad. Fried Chicken with Okras. Take a very tender chicken, clean and cut into joints suitable for frying, season with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour. Wash two dozen pods of okras and slice them thinly, throwing away the stems. Peel and slice one medium-sized onion; cut a quarter of a pound of ham in half-inch dice and chop one small green or red fresh pepper, very fine. First fry the chicken and ham brown, putting them into enough smoking hot lard to half cover them; then add the okras, onion and pepper and enough broth, cold gravy, or boiling water to cover all. Season to taste with salt and stew gently until both chicken and vegetables are quite tender. If the broth becomes thicker while cooking than ordinary gravy, add to it a little boiling water. Fried oysters may be added to the preparation just before serving. It is usual to serve a dish of plain boiled rice with this dish. Chicken Fritters. Take a cold roasted chicken and mince the white meat fine. Beat four eggs with half a pint of milk and one pint of cream, and then stir in sufficient ground rice to make a thin batter. Put the minced chicken in the batter with two tablespoonfuls of finely-shredded candied lemon peel, the grated peel of one fresh lemon, and sweeten to taste with caster-sugar. Then turn into a saucepan and stir over the fire with a wooden spoon. Leave the mixture until cool when cooked, then roll it out, and cut it into small rounds. Put a lump of butter into a fryingpan and make it hot; then put in the fritters and fry them until lightly browned. Drain them, lav on a folded napkin, sift powdered sugar over, and serve. Chicken Giblet Pie. Put into a pie dish some stewed chicken giblets together with the meat from the necks and pinions of the fowls. Place them in layers with slices of fat bacon between until the dish is full, pour in a little good gravy, cover the dish with a crust of mashed potatoes; bake in the oven for half an hour. Stewed Chicken Giblets. Wash the giblets from four or five chickens, dry on a cloth, and sprinkle over with Hour; fry them in a fryingpan with a little butter. Cut the gizzards in slices, put them in the saucepan with the giblets, add six onions cut up small and slightly browned, and a small bunch of sweet herbs; then pour over sufficient stock to and season with salt and pepper. Place the pan over a moderate fire where it will POULTRY. 295 simmer for about an hour. When the giblets are perfectly done, drain them out, pass the gravy through a strainer and remove all the fat. Rub the onions through a fine sieve and mix with them one tablespoonful of flour, then stir them into the gravy, boil up again, add the giblets, and let it remain until perfectly hot, then serve. Grilled Chickens, Hunter's Style. Select small chickens for this. Split them down the backs and beat them with a cutlet bat until flat. Should the birds be large they must be cut into joints. Soak them for an hour in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper, slices of onion, parsley and lemon juice; sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs and cook them on a gridiron. If cut up into joints dish them up in the form of a pyramid. .Add to some Madeira sauce a sliced onion, fried, and some chopped ham; warm it up, pour over the chick- ens, and serve. Hashed Chicken. Put the bones and small pieces of any kind of cooked chickens into a saucepan with cold water enough to cover, add a few sliced fried onions, two carrots, sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the pan over the fire and boil until all the goodness is extracted; then strain the liquor and add a little flour and butter to thicken it. Put into a saucepan the chicken-meat, add the grav) and place- the pan on the side of the fire where it will simmer for twenty minutes; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon just before serving. Put the pieces of chicken on a dish, pour the gravy over and garnish witli croutons of fried bread. Chickens in Shells. Cut the fillets of some chickens into scollops, put them in a frvingpan with a of butter ami fry them lightly. Cook an equal quantity of truffles in Madeira wine and when done divide them the same size as the scollops. Mix these together with some reduced German sauce, grate finely some breadcrumb and fry in buttei until brown. Fill eight shells with the chicken mixture, cover them with the fried breadcrumbs and put them for a few minutes in a moderately warm oven. Arrange the shells on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Broiled Chicken Legs. Take the legs of some cold chickens, remove the skin, cut the flesh on both sides of the bone and spread over them a preparation made of half a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, a little cayenne, half an ounce of warmed butter and one saltspoonful of essence of am hovies.all well mixed. When this is rubbed into the meat, especially into the cuts, place them over a rather slow fire on a gridiron, and broil them for about 296 POULTRY. ten minutes, turning them occasionally. They arc then ready for serving. A little cooked bacon should be served with them. Deviled Chicken's Legs. Cut off the legs from three chickens and singe them slightly with a little alcohol lighted on a plate, put them into the stockpot and boil for ten minutes. Remove them to a dish, cool thoroughly, season with salt, pepper and a very little cayenne; also two tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce and half a teaspoonful of ground mus- tard. Now roll them well together, pass one after another into sifted breadcrumbs, and broil them on a moderate fire for four minutes on each side. Then arrange them on a hot dish, pour over one gill of hot deviled sauce, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the top, and serve very hot. Chicken Legs in Papers. Take some cold cooked chickens and bone the legs. Mix some chopped parsley, pepper and salt with a little liquefied butter and dip the legs in it; put on each side of them a slice of cooked fat pork, wrap them in buttered paper, securing it at the edges and broil them over a clear fire, turning to cook both sides alike. When done dish them, pour over hot beef gravy, garnish with parsley, and serve. Chicken Legs, Perigueux. Cut off the legs from four chickens, bone them without cutting the skin, sprinkle over with salt and pepper, fill them with either cooked chicken forcemeat or quenelle forcemeat mixed with sweet herbs; put them in a saucepan with a little gravy mixed with white wine, place the pan on the fire, and boil gently. Take them out when done and lay them between two boards with a weight on top; when perfectly cold, trim and arrange in a flat saucepan, adding a little of the stock in which they were cooked reduced to half glaze; place the pan over a very slow fire and warm thoroughly. Take them out and place a paper frill on the small end of each and put them on a dish in a circle. Add four or five peeled and chopped raw truffles to the liquor, one wincglass- ful of Madeira and a little boiling brown sauce, and, after standing it on the fire a few minutes, pour it all over the stuffed legs, and serve. Chicken Livers in Cases. Take eight fat livers, remove the gall, trim off all the green part, plunge them into boiling water and poach without boiling; drain, pare slightly and cut each into halves. Put with the trimmings of these livers a few more livers in a Irving]). m, add a little lard, and fry them; when cool, put them in a mortar with an equal quantity of fat bacon finely chopped, pound, sprinkle in pepper, salt and spices, pass it through a sieve and then mix with it two tablespoonfuls of quenelle forcemeat, two t iblespoon- POULTRY *97 iuis each of sweet herbs and onions, four tablespoonfuls each of truffles and mush- rooms, all finely chopped; mix with this a few tablespoonfuls of melted glaze; take eight cases, either square or round, oil and line them inside with half of the above mixture. Fry the livers in a little butter and two tablespoonfuls of white wine over a quick fire. When the wine is reduced take out the livers, put them on a plate, dip a paste brush with melted glaze and brush them over with it. Cut each of the halves of livers in halves again, put two pieces in each of the cases, cover them with a layer of forcemeat, put a piece of paper dipped in oil over each, then stand the cases on a baking sheet, and warm them at the entrance of a moderate oven. Put the cases of liver on a hot dish, pour a little reduced brown sauce over each, and serve. Chicken Livers on Skewers. Take the livers of eighteen chickens, clean, cut away the galls and dry them well with a cloth; season with salt and pepper and cut each liver into halves. In the meantime cut off six slices of lean bacon and broil them for one minute, then cut each slice into six pieces. Take six silver skewers (attelettes), run one through the renter of the liver, next a piece of bacon, and continue in this way until the six skewers are filled with the pieces of liver and bacon. Roll them in a tablespoonful of oil, dip them into sifted breadcrumbs and put them on a moderate fire to broil for five minutes on each side. Arrange them on a hot dish, pour over half a gill of maitre d'hotel butter, and serve with a little watercress for garnish. Chicken Livers Stewed in Madeira Wine. Take the livers of ten or twelve fowls, cut away the galls, dry them with a cloth and fry them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter over a brisk fire for five minutes ; season with salt and pepper; add a half wineglassful of Madeira wine, reduce for one minute, then moisten with half a pint of Spanish sauce and cook again for three minutes; add half an ounce of butter and the juice of half a lemon, tossing the pan without letting the contents boil. Pour the whole on a hot dish, and serve garnished with six croutons of bread. Chickens' Livers Stewed with Mushrooms. Prepare the same as for fowl's livers stewed in Madeira wine; adding three min- utes before serving six sliced mushrooms. Minced Chicken, Polish Style. Take some pieces of cold fowl, mince and put into a stewpan with bechamel sauce and stir over the fire until hot, but not boiling. Garnish with croutons of fried bread. 298 POULTRY. Minced Chicken with Eggs. Take a cold cooked chicken, remove the skin, separate the flesh from the bones and cut it into small pieces; put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with a pint and a half of stock, a small onion stuck with two or three cloves, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Boil the stock for an hour, then strain it into a clean stewpan, skim off all the fat, put in the pieces of chicken and keep them simmering at the edge of the fire. When the bird is tender, mix a tablespoonful of flour with a small quantity of milk and stir it into the stock, letting it simmer, but not allowing it to boil. Add one teaspoonful of chutnev to the sauce and more seasoning if required, and turn the whole out onto a dish. Break carefully over the top as many eggs as will just cover the mince, but do not crowd them, and be very careful not to damage the yolks; strew a few sifted breadcrumbs lightly over the top, dust over with salt and pepper, and put them in the oven until the eggs are set, but taking care not to let them get hard. When ready, take the dish out of the oven, and serve garnished with croutons of fried bread. Chicken Patties. Take some patty-pans and line with puff paste and bake to a light brown. Take any remains of cold roasted chickens and their stuffing, put bones and stuffing into a saucepan with one breakfast cupful of water, and stew slowly. Mince the chicken very fine. When the gravy, made of the stuffing and bones, is reduced to a quarter of a pint, strain and put it on the fire again, add three tablespoonfuls of milk, one ounce of butter rolled in flour, and a little pepper and salt. Let this boil for a few minutes, stir in the minced chicken and let it get very hot but do not let it boil after the chicken is added. Turn the paste out of the tins, arrange on a hot dish, fill them with the minced chicken, taking care that it is stirred thoroughly. Serve very hot. Chicken Pot Pie. Cut a chicken weighing from three and a half to four pounds into twelve equal pieces; put these in a stewpan, cover with cold water and leave them in for thirty minutes. Then wash them well, drain and return to the pan. Cover again with fresh water, season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, add a bunch of parsley, six small onions and four ounces of salted pork cut into square pieces, and cook for three- quarters of an hour, taking care to skim well ; add one pint of raw potatoes and three tablespoonfuls of flour diluted with a breakfast cupful of water. Stir until it boils, and cook for ten minutes. Remove the parsley and transfer the whole to a deep earthenware baking-dish, then moisten the edges of this slightly with water, and cover the top with crust. Brush the surface over with egg, make a few trans - verse lines in the paste with a fork, and cut a hole in the center. Hake in a brisk Oven for fifteen minutes and send to the table. POULTRY. 299 Chicken Pilau, Turkish Style. Take a chicken weighing two pounds, singe and draw, wipe it well, and cut it into twelve pieces of equal size. Put these into a stewpan with one ounce of butter, and brown; add one chopped onion and one chopped green pepper, and cook for six minutes, stirring lightly with a wooden spoon. Moisten with a pint of rich chicken broth and one gill of tomato sauce, and add two ounces of dried mushrooms that have been soaking in water for several hours, or twelve canned mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper, and half a teaspoonful of diluted saffron. When incor- porated add half a pint of well-washed uncooked rice and three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Cook for twenty minutes more, and serve. Stuffed Chicken Quenelles. Place one ounce of gelatine in a basin, cover it with cold water, and soak it for an hour. Trim off all the skin from the flesh of a chicken, pick the meat from the bones, chop it fine, and pound in a mortar until it is smooth ; then stir in with it one tablespoonful of chopped and pounded pork, and pass the whole through a fine sieve. Put one breakfast cupful each of stale breadcrumbs and milk in a small saucepan, and boil for ten minutes, stirring at the same time to keep it smooth. Mix the bread- crumbs with the pounded meat, season with one teaspoonful each of lemon juice and onion juice, and pepper and salt to taste; add six ounces of warmed butter, one teacupful of white stock or cream, the volks of three eggs, and finally the well- beaten whites, and work the mixture till it is quite smooth. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan together with one tablespoonful of flour, and stir it over the tire until smooth but not browned, stir in by degrees one pint of cream, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, a little mace, plenty of pepper and salt, and boil for two minutes ; then stir in the soaked gelatine, and remove it from the stove. Mix three breakfast cupfuls of cold cooked chicken in the sauce, and stand it one side till cool. Butter eighteen cj:^ cups, line them with a thick layer of the forcemeat, fill the center with the chicken and sauce mixture (it should have become fairly firm), then cover it with the forcemeat. Stand the vj;^ cups in a steamer, place a sheet of paper over them, place the cover on the steamer, set it over a saucepan of boiling water and steam the quenelles for thirty minutes or so without letting the water boil too rapidly. When cooked remove them from the pan and stand them one side till done. Turn the quenelles out of the egg-cups, dip them well in beaten eggs and breadcrumbs and fry for three minutes in boiling fat to lightly color them. Drain the quenelles, place them on a hot dish, garnish with stoned olives, and serve. Chicken Rissoles. Make a well flavored mixture of mushrooms, pickled tongue and the meat of a cold fowl, all cooked; thicken with a little bechamel sauce reduced with glaze, and 3°° POULTRY. set it in a basin to cool. Prepare three-quarters of a pound of puff paste and roll it out into long, thin strips with the edges trimmed, then take a little of the mixture at a time with a small spoon and place it at intervals on the paste, leaving about one inch clear from the edge. Wet the edge of the paste and fold it over so as to com- pletely cover in the chicken mixture ; then with a channeled paste-cutter cut the paste into rissoles, having the meat in the center of the cutter. Roll out the rest of the paste, and continue until all the rissoles are made. Dip each one separately into well-beaten egg and put them in a fryingpan of fat over a slow fire. When done take them out, put them on a dish with a folded napkin, and serve. Roast Chicken. Take a chicken, clean, singe, and remove the pin feathers; then wipe it clean, stuff and truss it. Rub it over with a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour, and warmed butter, and put it into a bakingpan with a little chicken fat or dripping, and set it in the oven. When the flour is well browned, reduce the heat of the oven, baste well with its fat, and afterward with three or four ounces of butter melted in a breakfast cupful of boiling water. When the chicken is brown on one side, turn it over on the other, so as to color it well all over, adding a little more water if there should not be sufficient to baste with. A bird weighing from four and a half to five pounds will take about an hour and a half to bake. Roasted Chicken, Maryland Style. Take two small chickens, detach their legs and wings and lay them on a plate: season with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten egg, roll in sifted breadcrumbs, and place them in a buttered pan. Pour over an ounce of clarified butter and roast in the oven for eighteen minutes. Pour half a pint of cream sauce on to a hot dish, arrange the chickens on top, decorate with six thin slices of broiled bacon, also six small corn fritters, and serve as hot as possible. Roasted Chicken with Chestnut Stuffing. Dress two small chickens and boil gently in sufficient water to cover until tender. While they are cooking, either boil or roast sufficient chestnuts to fill it. If the nuts are roasted, make a cross cut on each to prevent the bursting of the shell. Remove the shells and skins of the chestnuts, fill the chicken with them, and brown it quickly ill a hot oven, basting it every lew minutes with butter, salt and pepper mixed together. Stive when sufficiently brown. Roasted Chicken with Oyster Sauce. Pick and draw two chickens; chop fine a sufficient quantity of oysters with truffles to fill them, season with chopped parsley, spices, salt and pepper, and stuff POULTRY. J 01 the birds with the mixture; then truss them, lay them in a baking-pan, pour butter over, and roast in the oven. Blanch twenty or thirty ovsters, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, a few tablespoonfuls of chopped herbs, and a small quantity of olive oil, and toss them about over the fire for about twenty minutes. Mix one wine- glassful of white wine and about a teacupful of stock with the ovsters, put in half an ounce of butter kneaded with half a tablespoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until thick. When the chickens arc cooked, remove them from the oven, untruss, place them on a hot dish, arrange the ovsters around with slices of lemon, pour the sauce over, and serve. Chicken Sauted. The Dubois method of preparing this dish is as follows: Put into a stewpan some peeled truffles with a wineglassful of wine and a little salt, place the pan on the fire and boil, but do not do so until just previous to using them. Put an equal quan- tity of mushrooms in a saucepan and boil them, adding a little butter and the juice of a lemon. Take a couple of fat chickens, singe, draw and cut off the pinions and claws, and remove the legs. Cut the breast up so as to have two fillets and a breast part. Chop the bones of the body in halves and break the thick bones of the leg with a knife and take them out. Place the legs in a sautepan with a little butter, arrange them at the bottom, then put the neck, pinions and bones from the body, season them with salt and pepper and place the pan on the fire so that they will fry slowly. When they arc about half cooked put in the fillets and breast parts, also a little parsley, sweet herbs and a clove of garlic; when the meat is set remove it from the pan with a skimmer, put it into another sautepan and stir in the truffles; remove the fat from the first sautepan, put in the truffle trimmings and a wine-glassful of white wine, boil for a few minutes and then add twice its bulk of brown sauce and the liquor in which the truffles were cooked. Boil this sauce quickly for ten min- utes or so; remove the fat and pass it through a fine sieve onto the chicken meat. Warm the meat, taking care not to let the sauce boil again. Put in the center of a dish a croustade of fried bread, place the pinions and bones from the body around it; then place the fillets and legs around that again, and the parts of the breast on top. Garnish the base- with some truffles and mushrooms, put a few cockscombs here and there, remove the fat from the sauce, and serve the meat with the sauce poured over. Chicken Saute, Bordelaise Style. Take two chickens, singe and draw, cut them into twelve pieces each and put them into a sautepan with two tablespoonfuls of oil and one chopped, shallot, and let brown well for five minutes; then moisten with half a wineglassful of white wine, adding three artichoke bottoms, each one cut into four pieces; season with salt and pepper, put on the lid and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes. Add a tcaspoonful of meat glaze when about to serve, and also the juice of half a lemon and a tcaspoonful 302 POULTRY of chopped parsley. Dish up the pieces, decorate with paper ruffles and garnish with the artichoke bottoms in clusters and twelve cooked potatoes. Chicken Sauted, Hungarian Style. Take two fowls, singe and draw. Cut them into twelve pieces and put them into a sautepan with one ounce of clarified butter, adding one finely-chopped onion and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cook slowly without browning for five minutes on each side, then moisten with half a pint of bechamel sauce and half a breakfast cupful of cream and cook again for twenty minutes. Serve, after first skimming off the fat, with six croutons of fried bread for a garnish. Chicken Sauted, Marengo. Singe two fowls, draw and cut them into six pieces each, lav them in an oiled stewpan and brown slightly on both sides for five minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper; when of a golden color moisten with a half pint of Spanish sauce and half a breakfast cupful of mushroom liquor; add twelve button mushrooms and two truffles cut in thin slices, also half a wineglassful of Madeira wine, cook for twenty minutes, and serve with six fried eggs and six croutons of fried bread. Put paper ruffles on the ends of the wings and legs of the chickens, and serve with the eggs and bread around the edge. Chicken Sauted with Tarragon. Take a raw chicken and cut into small pieces and season with salt and pepper. Have a small bunch of tarragon and pick off the leaves; put the stalks in a saucepan with half a pint of clear gravy and boil for twenty minutes; blanch the leaves. Put into a sautepan some olive oil and when boiling add the pieces of chicken and toss them about until cooked and browned. Strain the gravy from the tarragon stalks and mix the leaves with it. Place the pieces of chicken on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve right away. Care should be taken to drain the oil off the meat as much as possible. Scalloped Chicken. Put into a shallow dish a layer of cold cooked chicken, then a layer of boiled rice or macaroni and a little tomato sauce and so on until the dish is full. Sprinkle breadcrumbs over the top, put the dish in the oven and bake until brown. Souffles of Chicken. Cut off about one pound of cold roasted fowl, pound it in a mortar, pass it through a hair sieve and mix with it a breakfast cupful ami a half of reduced bech- amel sauce; when cold, add the yolks and whites of five eggs beaten separately ami a POULTRY. J°3 little grated nutmeg. Fill some paper cases with the mixture and bake in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour. Stewed Chickens. Take two chickens, cut off the feet and beat the breast bones until flat, but with- out breaking the skin, and dredge them over with a little flour. Put a large lump of butter into a stew pan and make it hot, then put in the chickens and fry them until brown. Cut one pound of gravy beef and half a pound of beefsteak into thin slices, drain the butter out of the pan containing the fowls and cover them with the slices of beef; put in a few slices of carrot and onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves, a small piece of mace and a dust of pepper; pour over one quart of boiling water, cover the stewpan closely, and stew the contents for a quarter of an hour. Take out the chickens but continue boiling the meat until a rich brown gravy is formed. When the gravy is ready, strain it through a fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan again with the chickens, add about a teaspoonful of red wine and keep it over a slow fire until the chickens are hot through again. If desired, a few mush- rooms may be added, but they must be put in after the gravy is strained. Boil some thin slices of ham until slightly crisped. Put the chickens on a hot dish, pour the gravy around them. Serve garnished with the ham and sliced lemons. Stewed Chickens, Cardinal Style. Soak two chickens in a basin of cold water for about an hour ; take them out and let them drain, then lift up the skin from the breasts and legs as much as possible without tearing it, and fill the cavity with forcemeat of fowl, colored with lobster spawn to a deep red ; truss the fowls as if for boiling, cover them with thin layers of fat bacon, put them in a stewpan with some chopped vegetables, cover with stock and simmer gently, ("are must be taken that they do not boil fast or the force will burst the skin of the fowl, and so look unsightly when served. Dish with an orna- mental croustade of fried bread in the center of the dish, garnish with quenelles of fowls, both red and white, glazed truffles, cockscombs, cravfish tails and button mushrooms, and on each side of the croustade put a larded sweetbread. Serve with cardinal sauce and garnish with ornamental silver skewers set in the croustade. Stewed Chicken, Matelote Style. Singe a fowl, draw and cut up in pieces, rub it with butter and flour and brown in an oven. Put four tablespoonfuls of butter in a fryingpan and in it fry a carrot, a parsnip and an onion all cut in slices. Place the fowl in a stewpan with the vegetables and one quart of white stock. In the butter in which the vegetables were fried brown two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir this in with the fowl ; mash the liver and adil the chicken, with one tablespoonful of capers, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer - POULTRY slowly for three-quarters of an hour, add a quarter of a pound of mushrooms cut into small pieces, and simmer for a quarter of an hour longer. Serve garnished with mashed potatoes. Stewed Chicken, Milanese Style. Pluck, singe and draw a chicken, remove the bones and dust the inside with a little salt and pepper. Have a stuffing prepared in the meantime as follows: Chop the volks of eight hard boiled eggs and mix them with six ounces of minced and pounded raw, lean ham and an ounce and a half of pork, and pass the mixture through a coarse sieve; add two shallots, one tablespoonful of parsley, a little thvme and bav leaf, all chopped fine and two ounces of breadcrumbs; make this into a paste with two eggs and add a dozen uncooked ovsters. Sew the fowl up to prevent the stuffing from coming out, tie up in a well-buttered cloth, and put it in a saucepan with sufficient boiling stock to cover, and cook gently on the side of the fire for thirty minutes or so, according to the size of the bird. Take it out and when it is cool, remove the cloth, roll the chicken in flour, dip in beaten egg, cover with breadcrumbs, put in a saucepan with enough boiling fat to cover it and fry for about ten minute? S B rnished with fried parsley, with a little veloute sauce in a sauce- boat. Stewed Stuffed Chickens, Godard. Clean and prepare two chickens, stuff them with forcemeat, truss, put them into a saucepan of white stock and boil until tender. Place in the center of a dish a crou- stade of fried bread, untruss the fowls and put one at each end of the dish, leaning st the croustade. Garnish with truffles, cockscombs and button mushrooms, srlazine^ the truffles and washing the cockscombs and mushrooms with white sauce reduced with mushroom liquor. Put three skewers, decorated with truffles, mushrooms and cockscombs in the croustade. and serve. Stewed Chickens, Villerov. Take a couple of chickens, draw and singe; remove the breast-bones and stuff them with a mixture of butter, lemon juice (the juice of half a lemon will be enough ), salt and pepper to taste; tie them up in shape with string and put into a saucepan of water. Pour a little marechale sauce into another pan; also three or four tablespoon- fuls of tarragon vinegar; place this pan on a sharp fire and let the liquor reduce quickly to half its original bulk, then add six tablespoonfuls of veloute sauce, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over to taste: add the yolks of two eggs and mix thoroughly. In the meantime place some slices of lemon and bacon over the chickens in the saucepan and put a : round them, place the pan over a good fire and cook for half an hour, when the meat should be done. Lav the chickens on a dish, having previously re- moved the string and drained them, add a lump of butter to the sauce, work it well, pour it over them, and - POULTR.Y. 3 05 Stewed Chicken with Asparagus. Cut up a chicken into quarters, put it into a saucepan with a little butter to fry; when it begins to steam, dust over with flour and fry to a pale brown; sprinkle over one teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a little salt. Take a couple of bunches of asparagus, break off the tender parts, wash them well in salted water, boil slightly in more salted water and drain them; put a lump of butter and one tablespoonful of cream into a saucepan over a slow fire, place half the asparagus on top, dust with pep- per and then arrange the pieces of chicken over it; cover it with the remainder of the asparagus, put a few small pieces of butter on top, pour over one breakfast cupful of cream and stew gently until done. Turn the whole out onto a dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Stewed Chicken with Mushrooms. Cut a chicken into pieces and stew it gently in milk and water in equal parts, adding a small quantity of butter. Put a small lump of butter into a saucepan on the fire to melt, add two tablespoonfuls of button mushrooms, a seasoning of mace, white pepper and salt, and cook. Take out the chicken meat when done, drain it, put it into a saucepan with the mushrooms, warm them all up together, and serve. If more sauce is desired, a breakfast cupful of sweet cream may be added to the mushrooms when nearly cooked. Stewed Chickens with Tomatoes. Cut a chicken into five pieces and put the legs, wings and body into a flat stew- pan with a little oil, two or three small onions, a clove of garlic and a bunch of par-lev. Place the pan on a moderate fire, and let it remain until the meat is half cooked. Then add the fillets and pieces cut off the breast and sprinkle them over with salt and pepper; return the pan to the fire and complete the cooking, giving them a turn over now and then. Select eight or nine large tomatoes, cut them through, remove the seeds, arrange them in a large saucepan with oil, dust them over with salt and fry first on one side and then on the other; sprinkle over a little finely- minced parsley, and put the pan over a moderate fire until the tomatoes are cooked. This must be done very gently. Then put them on a dish, and place the pieces of chicken on them. Put into a saucepan five tablespoonfuls of good gravy, boil for two minutes, pour over the meat through a conical strainer, and serve. Supreme of Chickens. Cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick the meat off the breasts of three fowls; trim them to one size and to the shape of pears; lav them in a tin dish with plenty of butter, dust them over with salt, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper and put 3 o6 POULTRY. them by until just before they are wanted, when they must be put in the oven and baked. Cut some slices of dressed tongue the same shape but a little smaller than the cutlets, and warm them in the same manner but without using so much butter. Cut up the remains of the chickens into pieces, put them in a stewpan with slices of ham and bacon, trimmings of veal and half a calf's foot; add vegetables such as onions, carrots and thyme, celery, mushrooms, parsley, marjoram, a bay leaf and a few trimmings of truffles. Season to taste with pepper, salt, mace and cloves, fill up the saucepan with cold water, put on the lid and simmer gently for three or four hours. Strain the liquor through a fine hair sieve, leave it until cool and then skim off all the fat. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir it over the fire until well mixed and then pour in gradually the above liquor. Stir it over the fire until very hot, but do not allow it to boil, then move to the side. Take a small canful each of mushrooms, truffles and cockscombs and heat them by standing the cans in hot water. Pour some of the above liquor onto a hot deep dish, pile the cockscombs, mushrooms and truffles in the center. Arrange the pieces of fowl and tongue around, and serve. Supreme of Fillets of Chicken. Take three very fat young birds, clean and scald the legs in hot water. Cut off the fillets, trim and flatten the large ones, stick two of the small fillets together to form one, put them into a sautepan, cover with melted butter and sprinkle with a little salt. Fry them lightly on both sides until they are quite firm and done. Drain off the butter from the pan, add three tablespoonfuls of highly seasoned bechamel sauce to the gravy that is left and hold the pan over the fire, moving it constantly so as not to let the sauce boil. Put the fillets on a dish, place small pieces of fried bread between them, pour the sauce over, and serve. Supreme of Chickens, Rothschild Style. Have ready chicken supreme prepared as for Toulouse, but stuffing with puree of chestnuts instead of the chicken forcemeat. Mince two truffles very fine, mix with one pint of hot puree of chestnuts, arrange the hot puree on a hot dish, place six croutons of fried bread over this, arrange the supreme over the croutons and decorate the top of each right in the center with one cooked mushroom. Supreme of Chickens, Toulouse Style. Take three chickens, singe, draw and wipe; remove the skin from the breasts; make an incision on top of the breastbone from end to end and with a sharp knife carefully cut off the entire breast on each side, including the small wing bone, which must not be separated. Under each breast will be found a small fillet; carefully remove it and place on a dish for future use. Willi a sharp knife make an incision POULTRY. 307 three inches in length by one inch in depth in each breast at the thinner end, season the insides with salt and pepper equally distributed and stuff them with two ounces of chicken forcemeat mixed with two truffles and four mushrooms also finely sliced. Butter a copper sautepan and lay in gently the six breasts. Take each small fillet and press it gently with the fingers to give it shape; then make six small slanting in- cisions on top of each and insert in these slices of truffle cut with a tube half an inch in diameter. Slightly moisten the top of every breast with water, carefully arrange one fillet on top of each lengthwise and sprinkle over a little clarified butter, using a feather brush. Pour into the pan but not over the supreme a quarter of a wineglassful of Madeira wine and two tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, tightly cover with the lid and place it in the hot oven for ten minutes. Pour one pint of hot Toulouse garnishing on a hot dish, take out the supreme from the oven, neatly arrange it over the garnish, adjust paper ruffles on each wing bone, and serve at once. Timbale of Chickens. Pick out a couple of fowls of medium size, singe and draw them and remove the pinions and leg bones. Cut each bird into five pieces, not including the backs which arc cut in halves; break the thick bones in the legs, take them out and put the legs into a saucepan with the wings; add eight ounces of smoked ham cut up small, three tablespoonfuls of the melted fat of bacon, a bunch of parsley and a few sweet herbs. Set the pan over a brisk fire and add a little seasoning ; when they are done and a light color take the chicken and ham out with a skimmer and put them into another saucepan to keep warm on the side of the fire. Put two tablespoonfuls of finely- minced shallot and onion into the saucepan with the liquor, fry them and then add fifteen mushrooms cut in quarters. Place the pan over the fire again and when the moisture is reduced add half a dozen chickens' livers, scalded and cut into halves ; four tablcspoonfuls of white wine or Madeira and the same quantity of melted glaze. Return the chicken to this saucepan, toss them in the sauce, removing the pan from the fire while so doing, sprinkle a little parsley over them, and let them stand for a little while. In the meanwhile line a timbale mould with short paste and mask it with a layer of raw minced veal or pork mixed with four tablespoonfuls of fine herbs. Put in the pieces of chicken, the ham, livers and mushrooms, spread the top over with more of the raw mince, put a layer of paste on the top, fold the paste over from the sides, put the timbale on a baking sheet, and bake it in a moderate oven for one hour. Remove it when it is done, turn it out, make a small hole in the top, pour in a break- fast cupful of gravy previously reduced witli a little Madeira or white wine, and serve quite hot. Turban of Chickens, Cleveland Style. Take two fowls, singe, draw and wipe them well ; bone and cut them into quar- ters ; then put tlrem into a sautepan with one ounce of butter, salt and pepper and 3<« POULTRY half a glassful of Madeira wine ; boil slowly for ten minutes. Take one breakfast cupful of chicken forcemeat and add to it one chopped truffle, three chopped mush- rooms and half an ounce of cooked minced tongue and stir well. Put the forcemeat on a dish, lay the pieces of chicken on top, crownshaped, and decorate with twelve whole mushrooms and two thinly sliced truffles. Add half a pint of Spanish sauce, a teaspoonful of chopped chives and a small pat of fresh butter to the chicken gravy. Pour this immediately over the fowls, put the dish in the oven and cook slowly for ten minutes ; squeeze over the juice of half a lemon, and serve with six heart-shaped croutons of fried bread. Truffled Chicken. Bone a fat chicken and put it on a table with the fillets cut off the breasts of two other fowls; cut some large slits in them all and put pieces of pork cut into thin slips in the cuts. Chop into slices one quart of truffles and put them where they will show in the white meat when it is cut; sprinkle well with pepper, salt and powdered thyme and a little finely grated nutmeg, and put the pieces of the breasts in the thin- nest parts of the fowl, draw the two sides together, sew them up into shapes as near the original as possible, wrap the fowl in a cloth, tie it round with a string and boil it in salted broth for two hours. Take it out, put it in a mould with a weight on top and let it cool. When perfectly cold remove the string and cloth, put it on a dish and cut it up in slices; or, it may be put into a mould and filled up with aspic jelly, or masked with liquefied butter. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. Cut a pint and a half of cooked chicken meat into dice and season with salt and pepper. Make a cream sauce and season also with salt and pepper, adding half a teaspoonful each of onion juice and made mustard. Heat the chicken in this, and with it fill some vol-au-vent cases. Vol-au-Vent, Toulouse. Prepare one-half pound of puff paste, giving it six turns. Roll the paste out to about two inches in thickness, and with a small round tin cutter divide the paste into rounds; with another tin cutter, one inch smaller in diameter than the one just used, cut three parts through the center of each round of paste, thus forming the lids. Place the cases on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven, and bake until done, and nicely browned. Then lift up the middle pieces carefully and scoop out the underdone paste. Prepare a few quenelles of chicken forcemeat, place them in a saucepan with the flesh of half of a cooked cold chicken cut into small pieces, two ounces of chopped cooked tongue, three or four sliced truffles, five or six mushrooms, three cockscombs and one-half pint of supreme sauce. Stir the above mixture over the fire until hot r POULTRY. 3°9 though not boiling, fill the vol-au-vents with it, arrange them on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper laid on a hot dish, and serve without delay. The cases should onlv be filled when ready to serve, as if left standing long the mixture in them is likely to make them heavy. Chicken, Waldorf Style. Boil a chicken till it is tender, take it from the fire, and remove all the white meat, cutting it into dice-shaped pieces, and adding two large truffles, cut the same. Put these all into a saucepan with a pint of fresh thick cream, season with salt and pepper, and allow it to boil for twelve minutes, then thicken with two raw egg-yolks diluted in two large spoonfuls of Madeira wine. Stir this thoroughly in with the chicken, also two ounces of fresh batter added in small bits, and mingle without letting it boil again, then serve. Braised Duck. Draw and clean a large duck, stuff the breast with bread or meat stuffing, and truss it. Put into a stewpan some slices of fat bacon or a little butter; when melted place the duck over it on its breast first, to give it a little color, then turn it over. When the back is slightly colored, surround the duck with whole vegetables, such as carrots, potatoes, etc.; add salt, pepper and seasoning, and a breakfast cupful of broth; simmer over the fire until the liquid has reduced to glaze, then add broth and white wine to reach to half the height of the duck, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and braise it. When done, take out the duck and vegetables, and reduce the liquor to half-glaze. Untruss the duck and dish it; strain and skim the stock and thicken with a little brown sauce. Garnish the duck with vegetables, pour a little of the sauce over it, and serve the rest in a sauceboat. Braised Duck, Empress Style. Prepare a duck by cutting off the wing and half of the breast; take off the skin, remove the bone from the wing and fill up its place with quenelle forcemeat. Lard the breast and put it into a braisingpan over slices of leeks, carrots, onions, a little parsley, thyme, chervil, bay leaves, and lemon peel. Pour over sufficient stock to prevent burning, set the pan on the fire and braise the half duck; then glaze it, put on a dish over a layer of cooked sea-kale, and serve with puree of beans for garnish. Braised Duck with Mushrooms. Braise a duck. Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan; add a few chives, several finely-minced mushrooms and a bunch of parslev, and fry them for ten minutes; dredge in a little flour ; add the liquor from the duck after braising, and stir over the fire for a few minutes; skim off the fat and strain. Place the duck on a dish, pour over the gravy, and serve. 3 io POULTRY. Deviled Duck. Clean a good-sized duck and split down the back. Prepare a mixture of dry mustard, pepper, salt and chutney; rub it all over the duck, having previously pricked the skin with a fork, and boil it for twenty minutes. Put half a teacupful each of white wine, mushroom catsup, lemon-pickle and stock into a saucepan, and add a little sugar. Dish the duck, pour the sauce over it, and serve hot. Stewed Duck's Giblets. Wash the giblets, cut up the gizzards; disjoint the head, neck and pinions, and put them over the fire in a stewpan; add a small onion, a couple of cloves, one dozen peppercorns, a small bunch of savory herbs, a teaspoonful of catsup, two ounces of butter and half a pint of broth. Let them stew gently until the giblets are tender, then lay them on a hot dish Strain the gravy, put it back into the stewpan, thicken with a little butter rolled in corn meal, and stir in one wineglassful of white wine. Pour the gravy over the giblets, and serve hot. Ducks, Hunter's Style. Take three ducks, singe, draw, truss and cook in a stewpan with a piece of butter over a moderate fire. Fry the livers of the ducks with other poultry livers or slices of calf's liver; when they are cool pound them and pass through a sieve, mix in a little glaze and with it mask a few bread-crusts cut into oblong shapes and browned in but- ter. Arrange in the center of a dish a heap of green peas or any other vegetable; cut the ducks into pieces of fillets, trim them, arrange them with the crusts around the pyramid and place a decorated skewer in the center of the heap Mask the fillets of duck with brown sauce reduced with Madeira, and serve. Serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauceboat. Duck Pie. Skin and boil for a quarter of an hour a duck, having first cut off the neck. Put the well-washed giblets over the fire with an anchovy, a little whole black pepper, a small bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a bit of mace, a crust of bread toasted very brown, a very little cayenne and an ounce of butter. Cover the pan until the butter is quite melted and all is quite hot, then add half a pint of boiling water and stew until tender. Take up the giblets, strain the liquor and let it and the giblets stand until quite cold. When the duck is roasted remove and cut in pieces while vet hot. When the giblets are cold put them into a pie-dish, pour over the skimmed liquor they were boiled in with the gravy that has run from the duck, season the duck with salt and pepper, put into a pie-dish with a few pieces of butter, cover with puff-paste or short- crust, and bake. POULTRY. Roast Ducks. 3" Truss the birds, having first removed the pinions, legs, crop, entrails and oil-bags; rub a little butter over them and dredge with flour, salt and pepper, and roast in a hot oven for twenty or thirty minutes. If preferred stuffed, peel, core and quarter some apples and fill the bodv with them, removing them when the bird is done, as they are not fit to eat, the flavor being too strong. Serve with olive sauce and green peas. Roast Duck with Orange Sauce. Scrape a tablespoonful each of fat bacon and raw onion and frv them together for five minutes; add the juice of an orange and a wiueglassful of port wine, the drippings from the duck and seasoning of salt and pepper. Keep this hot without boiling, and serve with the duck after it is roasted. Salmis of Duck. Take a cold roasted duck; cutoff the fillets, trim them and put in a stewpan with a little salt and allspice; add one teacupful of olive oil and a wiueglassful of claret; stir over the fire until the fillets are hot through, then dish and serve. Stewed Ducks. Cut into joints two ducks, put in a stewpan with one pint of rich gravy; let this come to a boil, and as the scum rises, remove; season with salt and cayenne and stew gently for three-quarters of an hour; mix until smooth two teaspoonfuls of ground rice with one wincglassful of port wine, stir it into the gravy and boil for seven or eight minutes longer; then turn the whole onto a dish, and serve very hot. Stewed Duck with Chestnuts. Draw and prepare a duck, lard the breast with bacon and roast it in the oven; put into a saucepan one pint of beef gravy, two dozen roasted and peeled chestnuts, two onions sliced and fried in butter, a small sprig of sage and thyme, and season with pepper and salt. Cut the duck up and put it in the saucepan, cover, and stand the pan by the side of the fire and simmer for twenty minutes; then dish it, skim the gravy, take out the herbs, add one teacupful of sherry wine, thicken with flour and butter, and boil. Then pour it over the duck, and serve with the chestnuts around it. Stewed Duck with Olives. Prepare and truss a duck, making it as plump as possible, and squeeze lemon juice over it, rubbing it in. Put the duck in a stewpan with a good-sized piece of butter, and brown it all over; stir in one dessertspoonful of flour, and when brown 3 i2 POULTRY. add one breakfast cupful of broth. Remove the kernels from some olives (by peeling them thick), scald them in boiling water, and when the duck is nearly done, add them to the stewpan and cook. When ready, dish the duck and arrange the olives around it; skim the fat off the gravy, pour it over the duck, and serve. Duck with Marinaded Cucumbers. Place three salted cucumbers in a basin and pour one pint of water and half a teacupful of vinegar over them, and let them marinade for two or three hours. Then cut a small duck into eight pieces, peel and slice one onion and put it into a sauce- pan with a lump of butter, and fry for a few minutes; put in the pieces of duck, and fry them until lightly browned, pour over one breakfast cupful of stock, add a clove of garlic and a bay leaf, and stew gently at the side of the fire until tender, then drain the slices of cucumber and put them in with the duck to get hot. When pre- pared, turn all out on a hot dish, and serve. Curried Duckling. Put into a saucepan four teaspoonfuls of chopped onion, one teaspoonful each of ground chillies and turmeric, half a teaspoonful of ground ginger, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground garlic with two ounces of boiling fat, and brown them. Cut a duckling up into several pieces, and brown it slightly in the saucepan with a tea- spoonful of salt, pour in two breakfast cupfuls of water and simmer on the side of the fire until the meat is quite tender, which will occupy about an hour and a half. When done turn the curry out on a dish, and serve very hot. If desired, half a teaspoonful each of ground coriander and cumin seeds may be added to this curry with advantage. Fillets of Ducklings with Green Peas. ( i ) Roast two or three ducklings in the oven, basting frequently. Boil a pint and a half of green peas, and when tender strain off the water; mash about one pound of boiled potatoes, put them into a border mould, poach in the bain-marie for a few minutes, and then turn them out onto a hot dish. Cut as many thin croutons of bread as fillets and fry them in butter until browned. When the duck- lings are cooked cut off the fillets, trim them, and arrange alternately with the croutons on the border of potatoes. Strain the gravy that has run from the duck- lings into the stewpan with the peas, put in two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, and stir over the fire for a few minutes. Beat the yolk of an egg with half a teacupful of cream or milk, then mix it in with the sauce; and stir by the side of the fire until thick. The sauce must not boil after the egg is added. Heap the peas in the center of the dish, and serve. (2) Roast and fillet the ducklings as for No. I, score the skin, arrange the POULTRY. 3 ! 3 fillets in a circle on a dish, fill the center with plain boiled green peas, and serve with a sauceboatful of half-glaze. Roast Ducklings. Take a duckling weighing from three to three and a half pounds, singe, draw and wipe; then stuff with forcemeat, place in a roastingpan with half an ounce of butter, sprinkle with salt, and cook in the oven for forty minutes, basting occasionally. Lay the bird on a dish and untruss it; skim the fat off the liquor, add one teacup- ful of white broth, let it come to a boil, then strain over the bird, and garnish with fried hominy. Roast Duckling with Apple Sauce. Prepare and truss a tender duckling of about three and a half pounds weight; place it in a roasting pan, spread over it half an ounce of butter and a pinch of salt; cook in a brisk oven for thirty minutes, basting now and then with its own liquor. Place the duck on a hot dish and untruss, skim the fat off the liquor in the pan, pour in a teacupful of broth; let it come to a boil, then strain it over the duck and garnish with watcrcresses. Serve with hot applesauce in a sauceboat. Giblct Pic. Prepare and stew three or four sets of giblets and when they are done place them in a dish with the meat from the neck and pinions, arranging them in layers witli a few slices of boiled bacon between; pour in a little gravy, cover the dish with a good pic-crust and put it in the oven for thirty minutes. If desired mashed potatoes may be put on the top instead of pie-crust and a little mushroom or walnut catsup poured into the dish. Celery and sweet herbs are sometimes used. Deviled Goose. Take a good-sized goose, singe and draw, plunge it into a pan of boiling water and leave for thirty minutes or so; then stuff it with a mixture made of mashed pota- toes, butter, onions, parsley, thyme and a little black pepper. Put a few slices of fat pork in a pan, place the goose on it and pour in a pint of broth. Put a little butter on the breast of the bird and pour over it a mixture made of two tablcspoonfuls of each of pepper, vinegar, celery vinegar, made mustard and half that quantity of any acid fruit jelly. Sprinkle over salt and pepper, dust it well over with flour and put in a quick oven, basting frequently. When done take it out, lav it on a dish, skim the fat off the gravy, pour it over, and serve. 3M- POULTRY. Attereaux of Goose's Fat Liver, Take half of a cold cooked fat liver, divide it into half-inch squares, a fifth of an inch thick; put them into a kitchen basin, add an equal quantity of same-sized squares of cooked pickled beef tongue, season, sprinkle over a handful of minced truffles and pour over a few tablespoonfuls of hot villeroy sauce. Roll them in this sauce until they are thoroughly masked in it and then let them cool. Thread the squares of tongue and liver alternately upon some wooden or metal skewers and roll them in breadcrumbs; dip in beaten egg, roll in breadcrumbs again, plunge them into plenty of boiling hog's lard, and fry to a bright brown color. Remove, drain and serve on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper with lemons cut into quarters set all round. Goose's Fat Liver Croquettes. Take half a pound each of truffles and fat liver, cut into small pieces of equal size and put them into one quart of hot Spanish sauce reduced with a little essence of truffles and made quite thick. Take them out when cool, separate the pieces, roll them into little balls, dip them into egg beaten up with oil, salt and pepper, and then roll them on a board covered with breadcrumbs. Plunge them into a pan of boiling fat and frv to a light brown color. Take them out, drain, dust over with salt, place them on a napkin on a dish, and serve. Fried Goose's Fat Liver with Truffle Sauce. Take a large liver and without steeping it in water cut it up in slices as near of a size as possible, sprinkle them over with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, dip into beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs. Put half a pound of butter into a flat saute- pan; when it is warm, add the slices and fry them over a brisk fire turning them over so as to cook on both sides. When done to a light brown, take them out again, drain, put them in a circle on a dish and stand a boat of pcrigueux sauce in the center. Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve hot. Goose's Fat Liver in Shells. Take a half or three-quarters of a fat liver and chop it into pieces, small dice or squares and put them into a saucepan with half their bulk of chopped mushrooms. Sprinkle over a little salt and pepper and place the lid on the pan; put three-quarters of a pint of bechamel sauce into another saucepan and place it over a quick fire to reduce it, keeping it stirred constantly and adding slowly a few tablespoonfuls of melted glaze until the sauce is soft enough without being too thick; then add it to the fat liver mixture in the other saucepan and place the pan on the side of the fire where it will warm without boiling. Fill ten tableshells with the mixture, smooth the POULTRY. 3 J 5 surface, cover them with breadcrumbs and salamander, or place them in a slow oven to brown. Serve the shells on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve. Goose's Giblets Stewed with Apples. After cleaning the giblets thoroughly, cut them up and put them in a stewpan with an onion stuck with three cloves, a small bunch of parsley and a little water; dust in salt and pepper and stew them gently; peel some apples, cut them in quarters and core; put them in a stewpan with a small quantity of water, a slice of lemon peel, brown sugar to taste, and cook them gently until soft, but without breaking; put one ounce of butter in a saucepan with a tablcspoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until brown; then mix in a small quantity of the cooking liquor of the giblets; strain the syrup off the apples, mix it in .with the sauce and stir over the fire until thick and smooth. Take a tablespoonful of currants, wash them thoroughly and put them in boiling water until plump. Remove the onion and parsley from the giblets, pour the sauce in with them and color darkly with caramel. After draining them, mix the currants, and the quarters of apples in with the giblets and make all hot together. Deviled Leg of Goose. Remove all the water from a tablespoonful of fresh butter by beating it up with a little salt; add to it one saltspoonful each of dry mustard and white pepper, half a saltspoonful of dried salt and any kind of chutney, also a small quantity each of sugar and cayenne. Work these to a paste, spread it over the leg of a cold cooked goose so as to cover it, put it on a gridiron and broil both sides over a clear fire. Serve at once. Stewed Goose Livers. Take six goose's livers, clean and wash them thoroughly, and put them in a stew- pan with two or three shallots, a piece of parsnip, a small bunch of sweet herbs, with a few sprigs of parsley tied up in it, two or three cloves, salt and pepper to taste and about three-quarters of a pint of clear stock. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire when boiling and keep the contents simmering gently until the livers are tender. When cooked take the livers out of the saucepan, being very careful not to break them, and cut them into slices. Take some of their cooking liquor to make the sauce, strain it into a small stewpan, thicken it with a little flour kneaded with butter, and stir it over the fire until boiling; next put into it a few sliced mushrooms and the sliced liv- ers and let the whole simmer gently at the side of the fire for a few minutes. Turn the livers and mushrooms with the sauce over them on to a hot dish, garnish with thin rolls of fried bacon and small croutons of bread fried brown in butter, and serve. 3 i6 POULTRY. Pate of Foies Gras. Select a good-sized goose's fat liver and remove the gall with care, put the liver into a pan of boiling water to set, taking care that it does not boil, then take it out and let it cool. Put two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onions into a sautepan with a little rasped bacon and fry, but without allowing it to color. Cut the liver into large squares, put it into the pan with the onions and add eight ounces of raw truffles cut up into smaller squares or dice; sprinkle over a little salt and add a few spices to sea- son. Place the pan over the fire for eight minutes or so, tossing it now and then, then take it from the fire and let the contents cool. Chop fine half a pound each of lean veal and fat bacon, mix in with them two or three tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs soaked in milk and squeezed thoroughly dry, mince it up a little more and season with salt and pepper. Place this mince in a basin, add some trimmings of truffles and the fat liver also chopped very fine, and half a pound of lean ham cut into small dice or squares. Butter a hot pie mould, place it on buttered paper on a baking sheet, line it with short paste, put a layer of the mince at the bottom and sides, then fill it with a round flat of paste, decorate it, leave a hole in the center, brush it over with egg and bake for an hour and a half in a moderate oven. As soon as the paste begins to color place a piece of buttered paper over it. When it is done remove the top of the pie, wipe off as much of fat as possible, mask the contents with brown sauce reduced with Madeira and trimmings of truffles, and serve very hot. Goose Pie. Cut the meat from the bones of a cold, cooked goose, put the bones with skin and stuffing (if anv) into a saucepan with a little water and boil for two hours. Suf- ficient water should be used so that when boiled there will be at least one pint of gravy. Let it cool and skim off the fat. Put a layer of apple sauce at the bottom of a dish, lay the meat on this, cover it over with another layer of sauce, and fill the dish up with as much gravy as it will conveniently hold. Sprinkle over with pepper and salt, cover the dish with a good suet crust and bake in a moderate oven until the crust is done. If uncooked meat is used it should be first stewed for an hour or so. Boiled and minced onions may be used in place of the apple sauce if desired. Goose Giblet Pie. Take a goose, singe and scald the wings and head, cut off part of the beak and remove the eves, skin the feet and head, cut open the gizzard and cleanse it, cut the neck into moderate-sized pieces and the liver and heart into halves. Put the giblets into a stewpan with a sliced onion, a few peppercorns and a bunch of sweet herbs, moisten to height with water and keep them gently simmering at the side of the fire for about an hour and a half, leave the giblets until cool and cut them into smaller pieces. Take a pie-dish and fill it with alternate layers of tender steak and POULTRY. 3i7 the giblets, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper. Strain in the cooking liquor of the giblets and cover the whole with a good plain crust, trimming off neatly round the edges and making a hole in the center. Lay a sheet of paper over the top of the pie and bake for an hour and a half in a brisk oven. It may be served either hot or cold. Roasted Goose and Chestnut Stuffing. Peel fifty chestnuts, chop them up as small as possible, put them into a sauce- pan with two ounces of butter, half a pound of sausage meat, half an onion finely chopped, a little minced parsley and a very small quantitv of garlic. Set the sauce- pan on the fire and cook for ten minutes. Scald and chop finely the liver of a goose, add it to the chestnut mixture and cook gently for a quarter of an hour. Prepare a goose, stuff it with the mixture and roast it in a hot oven. Boil gently fifty more chestnuts in white wine, adding any required seasoning and cooking them until tender but not broken. When the goose is done put it on a dish, garnish with the boiled chestnuts, and serve. Smoked Goose. Pluck a goose as soon as killed, remove all the back, together with the bone attached to it, take out the inside of the remainder of the bird, wash and dry it, open it out flat, rub well with a mixture of salt, saltpeter and honey, and leave for a couple of days; then rnb it over with powdered thyme, allspice, garlic and white pepper and leave it for another two days; then sew it up, first in muslin and then in thick- cloth, and hang it for a week over a wood fire. Take it down, remove the thick cloth, and put it in a cool current of air for three days; then remove the muslin, sew it up in more muslin and place in a cool room until wanted. The back part that was taken away may be used for stew or broth. Stewed Goose. Take two onions, peel and chop and put them in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of goose dripping or fat, and fry until soft and lightly colored, then dredge with flour, brown them and stir in one pint of clear broth. Cut up any cold remains of goose and put it into the sauce with a wineglassful of white wine and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Put the lid on the pan and stew the contents for a quarter of an hour. Turn the stew out onto a hot dish and serve with any kind of vegetables on a separate dish. Baked Gosling. Select a gosling — not very young, for the flesh is then flabby — and after it has hung for a day or so, pluck, singe and draw it ; then put it in water with a little salt, and let it remain for several hours, to remove the strong taste. Wash and wipe 3 i8 POULTRY. the inside, and fill it with a stuffing made with finely-mashed potatoes, a little lump of butter, a pinch of salt or fresh pork chopped very fine, a minced onion and a small quantity each of chopped parsley, thyme and sage. Sew it up, truss and grease it all over with butter or lard. Put it on a trivet on a baking-dish with the giblets; pour into the dish one breakfast cupful of boiling water, and put it into a quick oven. Baste frequently, turning it round now and then so as to brown on both sides. When thoroughly cooked, put on a dish with gravy, and serve with onion sauce. Braised Gosling. Pluck, draw and singe a gosling and stuff it with forcemeat made with pork slightly seasoned and mixed with a little parsley and breadcrumbs; sew it up, chop off the leg bones and pinions at the joints and truss it; put the fat from the gosling at the bottom of a saucepan with a few vegetables cut in slices, place the gosling on these and pour in a pint of broth with a little salt and reduce the liquor over a brisk- fire; pour in half a bottle of wine and a little more broth to half the height of the bird; drop in a few cloves and peppercorns and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil up and remove the pan to a moderate fire, cover the goose with buttered paper, baste often and put the lid on the pan. Place a few hot ashes on the top and braise for three hours. When done pour off the stock, skim off the fat, put the fat back with the goose into the pan, keeping it hot, and reduce the stock to half- glaze in another saucepan; add a little brown sauce to thicken it, reduce again, stir well, add a teacupful of Burgundy and keep it hot in the bain-marie. Untruss the goose, place it on a hot dish and garnish with cooked glazed chestnuts, ar- ranged alternately in groups with small cooked sausages. Pour a little of the sauce over the goose, put a paper ruffle on each leg, and serve with the rest of the sauce in a boat. Pigeons. Pigeons should always, if possible, be drawn as soon as they are killed, then well washed and thoroughly dried. Thev are trussed by cutting off the neck, also the toes at the first joint, then crossing the wings over the back and securing these with a skewer thrust through them and the body; they are then ready for roasting. Pigeons Bourgeoise. Clean and truss two pigeons and braise them for forty-five minutes. Stone six olives and shape six pieces of carrot and six pieces of turnip like olives; boil them in a weak stock together with six mushrooms and eight small quenelles. When these are cooked cut the pigeons into four pieces each and put them on a hot dish, pour one-half pint of hot brown sauce over them, arrange the vegetables and quenelles tastefully about and garnish with nicely-shaped croutons of fried POULTRY. 3*9 bread. This is a very plain and unpretentious but delicious mode of cooking pigeons. Braised Pigeons. Draw and wash three young pigeons, wipe them well and stuff them with breadcrumbs that have been well seasoned and moistened with warmed butter, and cook them in a braising pan. Boil some spinach, chop it well, and season with salt and pepper. Toast three slices of bread, lav them on a hot dish, spread the spinach over them, put a pigeon on each slice, and serve with a sauceboatful of gravy. Broiled Pigeons. Clean the pigeons, split them down the back, wipe them with a damp towel, and sprinkle salt and pepper over them. Roll them in warmed butter, dredge with flour, and broil for ten minutes over a clear fire, turning to do both sides equally. Toast some thick slices of bread without a crust, butter them and put them on a hot dish. When cooked lay the pigeons on the toast, garnish round with parsley, and serve. Broiled Pigeons, Crapaudine. Clean two pigeons, cut them lengthwise under the breast, beat them flat, and season with salt and pepper. Put them in a .sautepan with a tablespoonful of butter, and fry them for fifteen minutes. Drain them, and place between two plates with a weight on top, and leave them till cold. Fry a tablespoonful of chopped shallot in the sautepan, then pour in one-half pint of broth, add a little pepper, and boil till reduced to half its original quantity. Skim the fat off the gravy, strain it through a pointed strainer into a smaller stewpan, and keep it hot. Roll the pieces of pigeon in warmed butter, then in breadcrumbs, and broil them over a clear fire, browning both sides equally. Put the pigeons on a hot dish, garnishing round with slices of lemon, and serve with the gravy in a saueeboat. Broiled Pigeons in Papers. Clean the pigeons, put them into a saucepan with chopped bacon, a lump of butter and a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Fry them slowly, and when half done, put in with them mushrooms, a minced shallot and sweet herbs. When nicely done, take them out and leave them to get cold. Then split the birds in halves lengthwise, sprinkle them over with pepper, salt and powdered sweet herbs and wrap each piece in buttered writing paper. Hroil them over a clear slow fire for twenty minutes, turning to do them equally. Put the pieces of pigeons on a hot dish garnished round with slices of lemon and serve. POULTRY. Chartreuse of Pigeons. Peel an equal quantity of carrots and turnips aud cut them into small balls with a vegetable cutter and boil them separately in salt and water, keeping them a little firm. Drain, wipe them on a cloth and leave them till cold. Cut the fillets off some young pigeons, trim away the sinewy skin, beat them lightly, season with salt and pepper and lay them in a buttered sautepan. Thickly butter a plain border mould, arrange the vegetable balls in circles alternately round the sides, fill the hollow of the mould with potatoes that have been boiled and mashed with a little butter and stand the mould in a bain-marie for an hour. When ready, fry the fillets over a quick fire, turning them. After they are cooked, drain off the butter, pour over two or three tablespoonfuls of glaze, and keep them hot. Turn the decorated border out of the mould onto a hot dish and fill the center with some chopped and cooked vegeta- bles that have been mixed with some bechamel sauce. Arrange the fillets almost upright on the border letting them slightly overlap each other, and serve with a sauceboatful of brown sauce which has been prepared with the legs and trimmings of the pigeons. Curried Pigeons, Ind lan. Put four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, a teaspoonful each of ground chillies and turmeric, half a teaspoonful of ground ginger and one-fourth teaspoonful of ground garlic into a saucepan with two ounces of boiling fat and cook until the ingredients are slightly browned; add four young pigeons each cut up into quarters and about a teaspoonful of salt, and cook until they are browned; then add two breakfast cupfuls of water and continue to cook slowly till the pigeons are tender. Turn the curry out on a hot dish, and serve very hot. Pigeon Cutlets. Having plucked and prepared the birds, put them in a stewpan with sufficient clear stock to cover, and boil slowly until tender. When cooked drain and cut them up into convenient pieces. Season some grated breadcrumbs with moderate quanti- ties of finely-chopped thyme, parsley and lemon peel and a little cayenne pepper. Dip the pieces of pigeon in beaten egg and roll them in seasoned breadcrumbs, giv- ing them a good coating. Put a large lump of lard or fat into a deep fryingpan, place it on the fire, and when the blue smoke arises put in the pieces of pigeon and fry them till nicely browned. Put one ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of flour into a stewpan, stir them over the fire till mixed and browned, then strain in the liquor in which the pigeons were boiled, season to taste, and stir till boiling. Form a pyra- mid of potatoes on a hot dish, arrange the pieces of pigeons in an upright position all round them, pour the sauce round the pigeons, and POULTRY. 321 Fried Pigeon Cutlets. Remove the wing-bones from four pigeons and tuck the leg-bones inside. Cut them in halves, sprinkle over salt and pepper, put them in a sautepan with a little butter, and fry them. When done press them between two plates with a weight on tup till cold. Dip them first in butter and then in breadcrumbs and broil over a good fire to color them. Place them in a circle on a dish, fill the cavity in the center either with string beans, asparagus, peas, sliced mushrooms or with a macedoinc of various vegetables. Pigeons, Duchess. Clean the pigeons, cut them into quarters, pour boiling water over the claws, and when sufficiently soaked trim off the skin and nails. Sprinkle over them a little black pepper and allspice, rubbing it in slightly with the hand; lay them in a basin, pour some red wine over them, cover and leave them fur several hours or over night. Then put them with the wine into a stewpan, pour in enough brown stock- to cover, and boil them for an hour over a slow fire. When well couked drain and pound their livers in a mortar. Boil the cooking stock quickly till reduced to half its original quantity, then mix with it the pounded livers and one tablcspoon- ful of desiccated cucuanut. Arrange the wings and claws uf the birds together to furm a center piece fur the dish, putting a piece of watercress in each claw. Put it in the middle of a hut dish, lay the quarters uf birds ruund it, putting between each quarter a small rull uf fried bacun, puur ruund the thickened gravy, garnish the edge uf the dish with a fringe uf watercress, on which lay quarters of lemon, and serve. Epigrammes of Pigeons. Cut the fillets off four pigeons and remove the skin and minion fillets. Beat the minion fillets lightly, and put them on the other fillets. Sprinkle a little salt anil pepper over them, arrange them on the bottom of a flat stewpan with some clarified butter, and cover over with a sheet of buttered paper. Cut the meat off the legs of the pigeons, and with that, the trimmings of the fillets anil an equal quantity of poultry flesh, prepare some quenelle forcemeat; take up six tablespounfuls of it, put them on a floured table, and shape each spoonful uf it like the fillets of the pigeons. ; hem side by side in a buttered sautepan, stand it in the bain-marie and poach them; when done, drain, and leave till cool. Dip the forcemeat fillets in beaten and roll them in breadcrumbs seasoned with sweet herbs. Fry the fillets of pigeons. and at the same time the fillets of forcemeat, in a fiat stewpan with a piece of butter. When nicely browned on both sides, drain the fat off the fillets, pour over two tablespoonfuls of melted glaze and one tablcspoonful of .Madeira, boil and move the pan off the fire. Put the fillets on a hot dish in a circle, alternating them with 3 22 POULTRY. the fillets of forcemeat, fill the center with a puree of vegetables or chestnuts, pour a little rich, brown gravy over them and serve with a sauccboatful of the same. Pigeons, Financiere Style. Put four pigeons, cleaned and trussed, into a stewpan with some thin slices of fat bacon on the top, and chicken broth to their height; put a sheet of buttered paper over them, cover the pan and cook slowly till tender. Prepare a garnishing of truffles, mushrooms, cockscombs and some chicken quenelles, mixed in financiere sauce. Frv a block of bread three inches high, and narrower at the top than at the bottom. Drain the pigeons, and rest them against it, put some of the garnishing around the dish, and some piled up between the birds. Place a larded and glazed sweetbread on top of the bread. Pour a small quantity of financiere sauce over the pigeons, and serve with some more in a sauceboat. Fricandeau of Pigeons. Singe and draw four pigeons, truss them as for roasting, remove the feet and pinions, lard the breasts, and stuff them with forcemeat. Place some thin slices of fat bacon in a stewpan, then a laver of veal, put in the pigeons, also a blade of beaten mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little salt and pepper, then cover the birds with some more veal and bacon. Prepare with the bones and trimmings one pint of gravy, pour it in with the pigeons, put the lid on the pan, and let the contents cook slowly for an hour. Take the pigeons out, skim and strain the gravv, then boil it till reduced to half its original quantitv ; put the pigeons in again and stand them over the fire for five minutes. Lay them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with slices of lemon, and serve. Fricasseed Pigeons. Singe and draw two pigeons, and wipe them well with a damp cloth. Cut them into pieces, and put them in a saucepan; pour in one pint each of claret and water, add a blade of mace, one onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of butter that has been kneaded with a little flour. Cover the pan, and cook slowly for three- fourths of an hour. Remove the pic pigeons onto a hot dish, and keep them warm. Strain the gravv, and stir in with it the yolks of three eggs; when thick pour it over the meat, put some fried oysters on top, garnish round with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Fried Pigeons. Pluck and prepare three pigeons tor cooking, split them into halves lengthwise, remove the breast-bone, and beat the flesh flat. Put them into a irvingpan with two ounces (,| butter and a little pepper and salt. When fried, place them between two POULTRY. 323 plates with a weight on top, and leave till cold. Prepare four ounces of quenelle forcemeat, and spread it over the side of each half; roll them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and frv them in clarified fat. When cooked put them in a circle on a hot dish, fill the center with a macedoine of vegetables, pour some hot brown sauce round, and serve. Fried Pigeons with Celery. Cut three pigeons into halves, brush them over with egg, dip them into bread- crumbs, plunge them into a pan of boiling lard, and frv them. Have ready a puree of celery, put it on a dish, place the hakes of pigeons on top, and serve with croutons of fried bread for garnish. Pigeon Pie. Pick and draw some young pigeons, wash them, lav them in a saucepan of boiling water, add a piece of onion and a little salt, cover the pan and boil until tender. Take the pigeons out, drain them, and put in each a teaspoonful of butter, a small quantity of salt, pepper, thyme and a hard-boiled egg. Lav them in a deep baking- dish and strain their cooking liquor over them; put in one teacupful of cream, one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, one tablespoonful of minced parsley and thyme, and a pinch of salt. Cover the pie with a rich crust, ornament it, stick four of the claws in the crust, and bake it. Serve either hot or cold. If cold set the pie-dish on an under dish with a napkin folded about it, and garnish freely with sprigs of parsley. Roasted Pigeons. It is well to stuff pigeons for roasting with a well-seasoned veal forcemeat. Their flavor is much improved by this means, and parsley fried in butter can then be served with them. The stuffing should consist of minced raw veal, fat bacon, bread- crumbs soaked in milk, and all mixed together and well seasoned. In America it is usual to serve roasted pigeons with red currant jelly or stewed apples without sugar, dressed celery or other salad, mashed turnips or squash. .All are considered suitable for these birds. Roasted Pigeons Stuffed with Chestnuts. Singe and draw two pigeons and truss them as for roasting. Boil one-half pint of chestnuts, and when tender peel and pound them in a mortar with the same quan- tity of finely-chopped bacon. Stuff the pigeons with the chestnut mixture, put a vine leal on eat h breast and hind them round with a thin slice of fat bacon; then roast them in a hot oven for half an hour. Chop fine the livers and mix them with a sprig of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful each of sauce and gravy, a lump of butter, a piece- of grated lemon peel; add a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. 324 POULTRY. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes. Put the birds on a hot dish, and serve them with the sauce. Salmis of Pigeons. Cut some cold cooked pigeons into nice pieces, season them on both sides with salt and pepper, and flour them well; put them in a stewpan with a little cold water, one ounce of butter, a few drops of mushroom catsup, and boil over a slow fire for a few minutes. When done turn the salmis onto a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread, and serve. Stewed Pigeons with Green Peas. Truss two pigeons with their legs inwards, cutting off the necks and washing the livers and returning them again to the insides of the birds. Blanch four ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into squares removing all rind, and fry it in a stewpan with one ounce of butter. When lightly browned take the bacon out, put the pigeons in and fry them brown, then remove them and place them one side with the bacon. Stir two tablespoonfuls of flour in the stewpan with the fat, and when cooked pour in one and one-half pints of broth. When boiling strain it through a conical strainer into another stewpan; put in the pigeons and bacon, one quart of green peas, a bunch of sweet herbs, and pepper and salt to taste. Cook slowly for half an hour, then take them out. remove the strings and place them on a hot dish. Take the bunch of herbs out, skim the fat off the peas, put them and the bacon round the birds, and serve with a sauceboatful of the strained gravy. Stuffed Pigeons. Pluck, draw, and clean the required quantity of pigeons, and make an incision in the center of each breast without cutting the flesh. Put the crumb of a stale roll in as much milk as it will absorb, and when soft squeeze it well and -mix with it two or three finelv-chopped button mushrooms, a moderate quantity each of chopped shallot and parsley, one-half ounce of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. When these in- gredients are well mixed, lift the skin on each side of the incision made in the breast of the bird, and stuff them with it. Sew up openings and put a small onion in each bird. Place them in a stewpan, with a few trimmings of ham or lean bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, and salt to taste. Moisten to height with stock, and cook them over a slow fire. When the pigeons are tender, strain off some of their liquor into a smaller stewpan, thicken it with a little flour and butter that have been rolled together, and add a wineglassful of white wine. Stir it over the fire till boiling, then move it to the side. Toast some slices of bread, lay them on a hot dish, and place the pigeons on them; pour a small quantity of gravy round, and serve with the remainder in a sauceboat. POULTRY. 3 2 5 Timbale of Pigeons with Truffles. Pluck, singe and clean eight pigeons, truss them, chop them into halves, put them in a sautepan with butter or bacon fat, adding a tablespoonful of parsley, two table- spoonfuls of mushrooms, and four tablespoonfuls of truffles, all finely chopped. Season to taste with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and boil over a slow fire for fifteen minutes. Let them cool in the liquor, and remove as many bones as possible. Fill a mould with paste, mask the bottom and sides with game forcemeat, put in the halves of pigeons, with a few slices of truffles intermixed, pour over the butter from the fryingpan, cover over with a little more of the paste, set the mould in a moderate oven, and bake for an hour and a half. Turn it out when done, and serve. Squabs, American Style. Singe, draw and truss half a dozen fine fat squabs, .stuff them with American forcemeat, and place them in a roastingpan with one pinch of salt evenly distributed, and one-half ounce of butter spread over. Place them in a hot oven and roast for eighteen or twenty minutes. Remove them from the oven, untruss and dress them on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the gravy, and add to it one gill of rich broth; let it come to the boil, and strain into a saucebowl. Decorate the dish with a small quantity of fresh watercress, arrange a slice of broiled bacon over each bird, and serve. Squab Ballotines. Singe, draw and remove the bones from half a dozen tender squabs, stuff them with a nice chicken forcemeat, and leave on one leg to decorate later with a truffle. Form each squab to a round shape, place them in a buttered sautepan, season with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, and cover with a piece of buttered paper. Place the pan in the oven for fifteen minutes. When cooked serve wifh one-half pint of hot Italian sauce, laying tin- squabs on top, with a paper ruffle fastened to each leg. Garnish the dish with watercress. Broiled Squab* Singe and pluck a couple of squabs, cut off the feet and heads and wipe them with a wet cloth. Putter a double gridiron, lay the birds between the bars, and brown them quickly on both sides over a clear brisk fire. Shake a little pepper and salt over them, place them on a dish, lav slices of orange round, and serve. Broiled Squabs on Toast with Bacon. Singe, draw, and rut off the necks from three good-sized squabs; split them without detaching them, lay them on a dish and season with one pinch of pepper, 326 POULTRY. one-half pinch of salt, and one tablespoonful of sweet oil; roll them well, and broil them for six minutes on each side. Prepare a dish with six toasts, arrange the squabs over, and spread one gill of maitre d'hotel butter on the top. Decorate the dish with six slices of broiled bacon, and serve. Squabs, Chipolata. Prepare and roast half a dozen squabs, and serve them with one pint of hot chipolata garnishing on a hot dish, with the squabs neatly arranged over. Compote of Squabs. Singe, draw, and truss with their legs thrust inside six fine, fat squabs, lay them in a saucepan with one-half ounce of butter, and a chopped carrot and chopped onion. Season with one pinch of salt, put the lid on the pan, and cook on a good fire for ten minutes. Put in a saucepan six small glazed onions, one medium-sized carrot, cut with a vegetable scoop one ounce of salt pork cut into small pieces, and six cut-up mushrooms; moisten them with one pint of Spanish sauce, and cook together for thirtv minutes. Transfer the squabs to this mixture, and cook again for five minutes. Dress the garnishing on a hot dish, arrange the squabs on top, and serve. Squabs, Crapaudine. Singe and draw six tender squabs, splitting them through the back without en- tirely dividing them; break the bones of the legs and wings, flatten them well and lay them on a dish, season with one pinch of salt, one pinch of pepper and two table- spoonfuls of oil, roll them in well, then dip them in breadcrumbs, and broil slowly for seven or eight minutes on each side. Arrange them on a hot dish, and serve with one-half pint of hot Robert sauce, to which should be added three chopped mush- rooms. Serve the sauce on a dish with the squabs on top. Squab Pie. Make a rich paste and line a deep earthenware dish with it. Cut about one pound of tender roast of veal into slices one-half inch thick first removing the bones, and place a layer of meat around the sides and on the bottom of the dish, Carefully pluck six squabs, cut off the heads and feet, singe and draw them, wiping them with a wet towel; cut the livers and gizzards fine together with an equal quantity of fat salted pork or bacon, add to them an equal measure of fine breadcrumbs, on, and a seasoning of salt ami pepper, ami use this forcemeat to stuff the squabs with. I.a\ them in a deep dish prepared as above and cover them with some slices of veal. Put over the fire in a fryingpan one dessertspoonful each of butter and (lour, stir until brown and then mix in one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of boiling water ami a seasoning oi salt and pepper. When this sauce boils pour it into the pie, and COVd POULTRY. 327 with an upper crust of paste, wetting the edges to cause them to adhere; cut several slits in the upper crust and brush over with beaten egg. Bake the pie in a moderate oven for two hours, taking care that it does not burn. If the crust browns too quickly cover it with a buttered paper, and lessen the heat of the oven. The pie may be served either hot or cold as desired. Roasted Squabs. Singe, draw, cut off the necks and wipe neatly six fine squabs; put them in a roastingpan with one-half pinch of salt, evenly spread, and a little butter; place the pan in a sharp oven and cook the birds for twelve or fourteen minutes; then remove from the oven, untruss and dress them on a hot dish on which have been previously placed six small canapes of game, one on each canape. Decorate the dish neatly with fresh watercress. Skim the fat from the gravy and add to it one gill of white broth. Allow it to just come to the boil; then strain it into a saucebowl, and serve. Turkeys. There is some difference in the method , adopted for trussing a turkey for roasting or braising and boiling. For roasting the same process as that described under truss- ing poultry is employed, For braising or boiling, trussing differs from the former in that the legs are tucked under the apron as follows : Singe and draw the bird, cut the legs off at the first joint, pass the finger into the inside, raise the skin of the legs, and tuck them under the apron of the bird. Pass a skewer through a joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the other leg and wing. Clean the liver and gizzard, and tuck them in with the pinions. Turn the small em\ of the pinion on the back, and fasten some twine over the ends of the legs to keep them in their places. Turkeys are often boned for making galantines or preparing other dishes in which the meat of the turkey without the skeleton is preferred. In some of the following recipes the boning of the turkey is prescribed, and the following is the method by which it should be done : The skin of the turkey for boning must not be broken or damaged in the slightest way, otherwise the effect will be spoiled. Pluck and singe the bird, chop off the head and lower joints of the legs, and the tips of the wings, and draw out the tendons from the legs, loosening the skin round the drumstick. The turkey must not be drawn boning. Place the bird on its breast on a board, and with a sharp knife make a cut through the skin of the neck to the middle of the back or near the junction of the side bone. Scrape away the flesh with the skin until the end of the shoulder- blade is reached, ease the flesh from this and continue to follow the bone to the shoulder joint down to the middle joint in the wing. Care must be taken at this point, as the skin lies very near the bone. The lower or first bone should be left 328 POULTRY. in the wing, as it is not in the way of carving, and helps to form the bird into shape. Should the turkey be small, the wings may be chopped off at the middle joint, as there is but little meat on them. Serve the other wing in the same way, and then follow the collarbone, loosening the crop from the flesh. Care must again be taken in removing the flesh from the breast-bone not to cut through the skin on the ridge ; it should be pushed away with the fingers, and the pieces that are detached from the other flesh can be inserted in their places afterward. As soon as the breast-bone is freed of meat, take off that from the ribs, then take it from the legs at the top joint, and then the drumsticks, turning the flesh inside out as if you were pulling a glove from your finger. When both of the legs have been boned, scrape down to the end of the backbone, and cut through the bone, leaving a part of it in the tail to hold the skewers. Now separate the membrane under the bodv, and all the flesh should be in the skin, while the skeleton containing the inside can be pulled away at the neck. Boiled Turkey. Singe and draw a turkey and truss it as for boiling. Wrap the gird in a cloth, place it in a saucepan with plenty of hot water and remove the scum as it rises to the top; when the water boils move the saucepan to the side of the fire and let it simmer from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size of the bird. When cooked drain the turkey, remove the cloth, put it on a hot dish, pour a small quantity of parsley and butter over it, and serve with a sauceboatful of sauce. Boiled Turkey, English Style. Select a very fine tender turkey of about five pounds in weight, singe and draw it, and truss with a needle from the wing to the leg. Place it in a soup pot, cook for one hour and remove it to a hot dish. Decorate the dish with one pint of cooked spinach, English style, and six slices of hot cooked lean ham. Serve with one-half breakfast cupful of hot broth poured over the turkey so as to keep it moist. Boiled Turkey Stuffed with Celery. Wash half a head of celery, chop it very fine, mix four heaping tablespoonfuls of stale breadcrumbs with it, add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper, two ounces of warmed butter and two beaten eggs, and stir all to- gether until thoroughly mixed. Stuff the turkey with the mixture, sew up the open- ings and truss it. Rinse a cloth in cold water, wring it out and dredge it with flour. Wrap the turkey in a cloth, tying it securely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water and boil it quickly for twenty minutes; then move it to the side of the fire and let it simmer. Allow three hours for a turkey weighing nine or ten pounds, and about ten minutes for every additional pound. When cooked drain the bird, put it on a hot dish, and serve it with a sauceboatful of celery sauce. POULTRY. 3 2 9 Boiled Turkey with Oyster Sauce. Select a tender hen turkey weighing about seven pounds, have it carcfully plucked, singed and wiped with a wet towel, cut off the head and feet and draw it with- out breaking the intestines; stuff it with equal quantities of stale bread and ovsters seasoned with salt and pepper, or truss it unstuffed. Place it over the fire in a sufficient quantity of water to cover it, skim off all the scum as it rises, and boil the turkey gently for about two hours, or until it is tender. Place the bird on a dish, and serve oyster sauce in a sauceboat. Turkey, Bourgeoise Style. Singe, draw and truss a turkey, as for roasting, but do not stuff it, and roast it in a hot oven, basting it well with butter until nicely browned. Place a few slices of veal at the bottom of a deep stewpan, put in the turkey, cover it with slices of bacon, moisten to its height with stock or broth, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it simmer by the side of the fire. When cooked take the turkey out and place it on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the cooking liquor, strain it through a fine hair sieve over the bird, and serve. Braised Turkey. Draw a turkey, truss it as for boiling, and stuff it with a chestnut-and-truffle stuffing, which should be made as follows ■ Peel off the dark skin from a quantity of chestnuts, place them in a saucepan with two bay leaves, a handful of coriander seeds, a lump of salt and plenty of water, boil, and when nearly soft, drain them, and remove the inner skin. Put one pound of finely-minced bacon and two or three chopped shallots into a stewpan, and toss them over the fire for a few minutes. Cut one pound of chestnuts up into small pieces, put them in with the bacon, add one-half pound of truffles, also cut into moderate-sized pieces, and season to taste with pepper, salt, spices and a moderate quantity each of thyme and marjoram. Stir the mixture over the fire for two or three minutes longer, then stuff the bird with it. Put a few slices of bacon at the bottom of a stewpan and put in the bird with three or four sliced carrots, onions, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs tied together with a few sprigs of parsley and a bav leaf, add a few peppercorns and salt to taste, moisten to height with one- half pint of sherry and clear stock and cover with a sheet of buttered paper. Put the lid on the pan with some hot ashes on it, and place it over a slow fire. Praise the turkev for about four hours, and when cooked, place it on a hot dish. Strain the cooking liquor into a small saucepan, skim off all the fat and boil it up again; then pour it over the bird, garnish round with potato croquettes and Brussels sprouts, and serve. 330 POULTRY. Braised Turkey Stuffed with Truffles. Singe and draw a fat hen turkey, cut the neck off, leaving the crop skin as long as possible, scald the feet and rub off the skin. Peel three pounds of truffles and cut them into small balls. Put one and one-half pounds of grated fat bacon into a fryingpan, put in two shallots, two bay leaves, two sprigs of thyme and one clove of garlic, season to taste with pepper and salt and fry over a slow fire. When cool, strain the melted bacon fat into a basin and put in the truffles and half of the truf- fle trimmings, chopped. Stuff the turkey with the above mixture and truss it as for boiling. Line a braisingpan with slices of fat bacon, place the turkey in wrapped in a sheet of buttered paper, and cover it with three pints of mirepoix and one-half pint of Madeira. When the liquor boils, move the braisingpan to the side of the fire, place hot ashes on the lid and braise the turkey. Make some hot perigueux sauce, using up the balance of the truffle trimmings. When cooked, drain the turkev, untie it, place it on a hot dish, pour some of the hot sauce over it, and serve with the remainder in a sauceboat. Braised Larded Turkey with Chestnut Puree. Singe and draw a small turkey, break the breastbone, cut the legs at the first joint and remove the bone to shorten the legs. When the legs have been singed, push them into the thighs by the opening of the drumsticks. Chop fine a quantity of beef-suet, mix an equal quantity of breadcrumbs with it, and truss the bird with a strong string. Set the skin of the breast and legs by singeing, and lard it with bacon. Put some trimmings of bacon and vegetables into a braisingpan, put in the turkev, moisten it to its height with broth and cover it with a sheet of buttered paper. When boiling, move the pan to the side of the fire, put some hot ashes on the lid and let the broth simmer till the turkey, which should be continually basted with its own cooking liquor, is done. Glaze the breast of the bird with a paste-brush, and when well browned, drain it and put it on a hot dish. Mix an equal quantity of white wine with the cooking liquor, skim off the fat, strain it through a fine hair sieve into another stewpan and boil it quicklv until it is reduced to half-glaze. Serve the turkey with the sauce in a sauceboat and a separate dish of chestnut puree. Turkey Breasts, Spanish Style. Proceed as for turkey breasts chipolata, but alter cooking for twenty minutes only take the turkev off, place it in another saucepan and baste it with its own gravy, adding one-half pint of Spanish sauce. Planch one-half pint of chicken or turkev livers, cut them into two or three pieces each, according to their size, and put them into a saucepan with the turkev, adding one-half wineglassful of Madeira wine. Cook Eor twenty minutes longer, and serve with the livers placed round the breasts and the gravy poured over. POULTRY. 33 1 Turkey Croquettes. Cut the meat off the breast of a cold cooked turkey, trim off the skin and fat and cut the lean into small squares; put them into a saucepan with an equal quantity of rice that has been boiled in broth till dry and of whole grain, sprinkle in one table- spoonful of curry powder and keep it covered. Pour one pint of bechamel sauce into a flat stewpan and boil it until reduced, stirring and adding gradually sufficient melted glaze to bring it to a creamy consistency. Mix one tablespoonful of curry powder with a small quantity of milk, stir it into the sauce, then pour the whole over the meat and rice. Stir the mixture over the fire for five minutes, then turn it into a basin and leave it until cool. When firm divide the mixture into equal quantities with a tablespoon, roll them in finely grated breadcrumbs, dip them in beaten egg and roll in breadcrumbs again. Boil a quantity of lard in a fryingpan, plunge the cro- quettes into it and fry them until they are well and equally browned. When cooked drain them, put them on a dish-paper placed on a hot dish, garnish, and serve. Fillets of Turkey, Milanese. Remove the sinewy skin from two breast fillets that have been cut from a small raw turkey, cut the meat into slices slanting lengthwise, trim them and beat them lightly. Dip the slices in beaten egg and then in freshly-grated breadcrumbs. Melt a lump of butter in a fryingpan, put the fillets in and fry them quickly on both sides till well browned. Put a garnish of rice with mayonnaise in the center of a hot dish; when cooked arrange the fillets in a circle round it, pour over them the butter in which they were cooked, and serve them. Turkey Fricassee. Separate the meat from the bones of some remains of cold cooked turkey, cut it into small pieces, and season it with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Pour one tea- cupful of milk into a saucepan with a thin strip of lemon peel, and boil it for five minutes. Mix one dessertspoonful of cornstarch to a paste with a little cold milk, then stir it into the milk in the saucepan, and keep on stirring it over the fire for two minutes; then take out the lemon peel, remove the sauce from the fire, and allow it to cool for several moments. Add one-half ounce of butter to the sauce, put it in the cut-up meat, and stir it over the fire until hot. While the turkey is being warmed up fry some thin squares of bacon. Turn the turkey onto a hot dish, arrange the bacon around, and serve. Turkey Giblets. These should be carefully preserved as they come in very handy for making sauce or gravy, or they can be used to make dishes by themselves. The old-fashioned system of tucking the gizzard and the liver into the wings when trussing for roasting 332 POULTRY has long- since been condemned by common sense, they being spoiled by drying and hardening in the cooking. The gizzard, liver and heart should be placed in a pan of water as soon as it is removed from the interior of the bird. The liver should be well squeezed in the water in order to disgorge it of its blood, and the heart should be cut open and also disgorged. The gizzard or crop should be cut open and all the stones or other con- tents be washed out; the thick white lining can be peeled off. The feet must be scalded and skinned, and any odd pieces of the neck may also be skinned and other- wise cleaned for making gravy. Turkey Giblets on Skewers. Remove the gall from the livers of two or three turkeys, and cut them into moderate-sized squares, split the hearts in two, open and empty the gizzards and wash them well in warm water. Run a thread through the gizzards, put them into a saucepan with a quantity of stock, and boil them for three-quarters of an hour. Drain, divide and trim off the hard skin, and cut them into the same sized pieces as the livers. Season the giblets with chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and baste them with a small quantity of oil, and mix with them the same quantity of thin squares of bacon as there are gizzard and liver squares. File the meat on skewers in alternate order, roll them in finely grated breadcrumb, place them side by side on a gridiron and broil them over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side. When nicely browned put the skewers of giblets on a folded napkin laid on a hot dish, and serve. Stewed Turkey Giblets with Turnips. Clean and blanch a pair of turkey giblets. Divide the neck and gizzard each into four pieces, and cut the pinions and legs in two. Cut one-half pound of streaky bacon into slices one inch thick, then divide them into pieces one and one-half inches long; place them in a stewpan with a piece of butter and fry till they are lightly browned. Take the bacon out, put in the giblets and frv them. Put the bacon back into the stewpan with the giblets, add one pound of turnips cut to the shape of corks, ten or twelve button onions and one ounce of butter. Fry the above ingredients until browned, then put in fifteen peeled potatoes, a bunch of sweet herbs and one quart of water; season with salt and pepper and let the whole simmer gently by the side of the fire for an hour and a half. Ten minutes before dishing the stew, put in the turkey livers. When cooked, take the bunch of sweet herbs out of the stew and skim off the fat. Turn the giblets onto a hot dish, arranging them with the heart, livers, gizzards and legs in the center of the dish, place the pieces of neck round them, put the pinions on top, pour over the remainder of the stew, and serve it once. POULTRY. 533 Hashed Turkey. Cut up whatever may be left of a roasted turkey and put it into a saucepan; add to it some shallots, mushrooms and truffles, chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls of cullis, about a half pint of stock, or a little more, one wineglassful of white wine and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and allow it to simmer for half an hour. Then add one pounded anchovy and one teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Skim off the fat, and serve hot all together. Hashed Turkey, Roval. Take about a pound and a half of nicely-shaped pieces of cooked turkev, place them in a saucepan with one pint of bechamel sauce, three tablespoonfuls of mush- room liquor, and two truffles cut into square pieces. Season with one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper and a little grated nutmeg, all heated together for ten minutes; then serve with six heart-shaped pieces of bread for a garnish. Hashed Turkey with Cream. This is prepared in the same manner as hashed turkev royal, substituting one pint of cold cream and one tablcspoonful of butter for the bechamel sauce, omitting the truffles, and reducing the cream with the hash to one-half, which will take about four or five minutes. Pour the whole onto a hot dish, and serve. Broiled Turkey's Legs. Cut off the legs of a cold roasted turkey, sprinkle them over with salt, pepper and cayenne, and cut them slightly across with a sharp knife. Squeeze some lemon juice over, place them on a well-greased gridiron and broil until nicely browned on both sides over a clear fire. When finished place the legs on a hot dish, baste them with wanned butter, and serve. Deviled Turkey's Legs. Cut and trim the legs of a cold cooked turkev and season them well with salt and pepper. Mix a small quantity of mustard to a paste with some oil, rub the legs in it and broil them over a clear fire, turning and basting often. When nicelv colored put the legs on a hot dish, pour a little rich brown gravy over them, and serve. Minced Turkey with Poached Eggs. Singe and draw a turkev weighing about eight pounds, boil it gently until cooked, then drain and leave it until it is cool. Cut all the flesh off the bones, chop it fine, mix with it two breakfast cupfuls of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Place the bones and 334 POULTRY. trimmings of the turkey in a saucepan with an onion and three quarts of broth, boil quickly till it is reduced to half its former quantity, and then strain it. Put a lump of butter in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour and stir it over the fire until browned, then mix in gradually the strained broth, season it with salt and pepper and stir it over the fire until boiling; then put in the minced turkey and breadcrumbs, and continue stirring until it is hot all through. Take up the mince in breakfast cupfuls, flatten it, turn it out onto a hot dish, place a poached egg on each mound, and serve. Turkey Patties. Mince the flesh of some cold cooked remains of turkey, and season it with a little grated lemon peel and nutmeg, salt and pepper. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient cream and butter to make it of a proper consistency, and stir it over the fire until hot. Butter some small patty pans, line them with paste, fill them with the above mixture, place a paste cover on the top, and trim the edges, moistening and pressing them together. Bake the patties in a moderate oven. When cooked re- move them from the tins, place them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper placed on a hot dish, and serve. Turkey Pie. Pick the meat from the remains of some cold roast turkey, and chop it fine. Put the mince into a saucepan with a small quantity of milk, pounded mace, pepper and salt, judging the amount by the quantity of the meat; thicken it with a little flour that has been worked with butter, and stew it gently for a few minutes. Line a but- ter dish with a good piecrust, and when the above mixture is cold pour it over the paste, place a paste cover on the top, moisten and press the edges together, and bake in a quick oven. When cooked the pie can be served either hot or cold. Roast Turkey. Singe, draw and truss a turkey, season it interiorly with salt and cayenne pepper, put it in a baking-dish with the washed liver and gizzard, and sufficient water to make the gravy, and bake it in a brisk oven, basting frequently, When it begins to brown dredge it over with flour, turning it often so that each part can be equally browned, ('over the breast with a sheet of buttered paper. When cooked, cut the liver and gizzard up, place them in a small saucepan with a lump of butter and one teaspoonful of cream, and stir it over the fire until it is hot. Place the turkey on a hot dish, first removing the paper from the breast. Skim the fat off the gravy into the bakingpan, uid strain it into the saucepan with the gizzard and liver. Pour the gravy over the turkey, and serve it while very hot POULTRY. 335 Roasted Turkey, Financiere Style. Prepare the bird as for roastiug, season the interior with one teaspoonful of finely-chopped thyme and parsley, and a small quantity of mace, pepper and salt. Stuff the bird with veal forcemeat, make an incision down each side of the breast, and fill them with washed and sliced truffles. Put the bird in a deep dish, sprinkle a small quantity of cayenne pepper over it, and allow it to soak in wine for twelve hours. At the end of that time fasten a sheet of buttered paper over the bird, and roast it in a brisk oven from an hour and a half to two hours, according to the size of the bird. Baste it in the wine in which it marinaded until it is half cooked, and then continue basting it with butter. Pour the remainder of the wine into a saucepan with one breakfast cupful of rich, brown gravy, one tablespoonful of Indian sov, and the strained juice of one lemon, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. When boiling, move the sauce to the side of the fire, and keep it simmering gently tor fifteen or twenty minutes. When cooked, take the turkey up, remove the buttered paper, place it on a hot dish, pour the sauce round it, and serve. Roasted Turkey Stuffed with Bacon and Truffles. Singe, draw and truss a turkey. Wash and peel one ami one-half pounds of truffles, chop them, place them in a mortar and pound them. Chop and pound an equal quantity of fat bacon, and mix it with the truffles. Stuff the bird with the mixture, cover the breast with a sheet of buttered paper, and roast it in the oven, basting it frequently with butter. When the bird is nearly done, remove the paper, dredge it over with flour, and baste with butter till nicely browned. When cooked place the turkey on a hot dish, pour a little rich, brown gravy over it, and serve with a sauceboatful of the same. Roasted Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts. Singe, draw and truss the bird as for roasting; peel fiftv or sixty chestnuts, blanch them in boiling water until the inner skin can be easily removed, and then boil them until soft; drain and chop them very fine. Empty two marrow bones, and cut the marrow into small pieces; mix these and the chestnuts together, season the mixture with a small quantity of salt and stuff the turkey with it. Cover the breast with a sheet of buttered paper, lav the bird on a bakingpan, and roast it in a hot oven, basting it constantly with butter. When nearly cooked, take the paper off the turkey. sprinkle over some flour and a little salt, and baste it with butter till frothed and browned. When cooked, place the bird on a hot dish, pour a little chestnut sauce over it, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich brown gravv, and a sauceboatful of bread sauce. 336 POULTRY. Roasted Turkey Stuffed with Oysters. Prepare the bird as for roasting; crumble sufficient breadcrumbs to make four breakfast cupfuls and mix with it an equal quantity of crushed oyster crackers. Warm one-half pound of butter and stir it in with the breadcrumbs, with the liquor from four or five dozen oysters, and two beaten eggs. Put in the oysters, season the mixture to taste, then stuff the turkey with it, putting it in loosely so that the crumbs may absorb the gravy. Cover the bird with a thickly-buttered sheet of paper on a pan, and roast it in a hot oven, basting it often with butter. Ten minutes before removing the bird from the fire take off the paper, sprinkle over flour and salt, and baste it again wifh butter to color it. When cooked, place the turkey on a hot dish. Prepare some brown sauce with the contents of the drippingpan, pour a small quantity of it round the bird, and serve with the remainder in a sauceboat. Roast Turkey, Turkish Style. Clean and truss a turkey. Wash and partly boil one breakfast cupful of rice, then drain it, and mix with it about one dozen chestnuts peeled and cut into small pieces, one-fourth pound of well washed currants, and two ounces of blanched and chopped pistachio nuts, seasoning the mixture with salt and a small quantity each of cayenne pepper and ground cinnamon. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a stew- pan and place it over the fire; when melted pour in the mixture and stir it over the fire until well mixed with the butter. Stuff the turkey with this, sew up the breast, place it on a baking dish and bake it, keeping it well basted with butter. When cooked, place the bird on a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich, clear gravy. Scalloped Turkey. Cut off all the meat from a boiled or roasted turkey and mince it very fine. Crack and break the carcass, put it into a saucepan together with the fat, skin and gristle, cover it with cold water and let it simmer to make the gravy. Grease the inside of a piedish, cover the bottom with a layer of breadcrumbs, over this put a layer of minced turkey, on this lay bits of butter and any bits of stuffing, then a layer of breadcrumbs, and so on until all the minced turkey is used up. When all the goodness is extracted from the bones strain the gravy, pour it back into the saucepan and thicken the browned flour. Pour some of this gravy into the piedish and with the remainder of it moisten sufficient fine breadcrumbs to form a smooth paste over the top; season with a little salt and pepper and spread the moistened breadcrumbs evenly and rather thickly over the scallops. Lay a dish over all and bake it for half an hour; then remove the cover, and, when browned, serve. POULTRY. 337 Stewed Turkey with Celery. Clean and truss a hen turkey as for boiling, stuff it with veal forcemeat, place it in a large saucepan with plenty of hot water, and boil it gently until tender. When the turkey is done take half of the cooking liquor and put it into another saucepan with four well-washed heads of celery, and stew them until tender. Remove the celery from the liquor, put in the turkey, breast downward, and boil it gently for twenty minutes; then drain it, put it on a hot dish and keep it near the fire. Stir one ounce of butter into one tablespoonful of flour, put it in the celery liquor, stir it over the fire until boiling, then put in the celery cut up into short lengths, and warm it again. Pour the sauce and celery over the turkey, and serve. Stewed Turkey with Noodles. Singe, draw and truss a turkev with the legs turned in. Melt some bacon fat in a stewpan, put in the bird, cover the breast with thin slices of fat bacon and fry it over a moderate fire until nicely browned. Pour some broth in with the turkev to three-fourths its height, add two or three small onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of celery root, four or five cloves and eight or ten peppercorns. Boil the liquor for ten minutes, then nunc the pan to the side of the fire, place some hot ashes on the lid, and stew the turkev until cooked. Prepare a garnish of noodles, finishing it with butter and grated Parmesan cheese, then place it on a hot dish. Remove the string from the turkey and place it on the dish with the noodles. Skim and strain the cooking liquor, thicken it with tomato sauce and boil it tor a lew minutes. Pour a small quantity of the sauce over the bird, and serve it with the remainder of the sauce in a sauceboat. Turkey, Toulouse. Pre! from two to three pounds of raw truffles, chop the trimmings with one-half pound of fresh bacon, place them in a mortar and pound them, passing the mixture through a fine hair sieve. Singe and draw the turkey, stuff it with the pounded mix- ture, truss it, fasten a sheet of buttered paper around, place it in a pan and roast it in a hot oven, basting now and then with butter. Ten minutes prior to taking the bird out remove the paper and let it brown, dusting it over with s.dt. Place some slices of toast on a hot dish, place the turkev on them, garnish with roasted quails at each lide and the truffles, seasoned and boiled in white wine, at each end, and serve with a sauccboatful of rich gravy. Game. Canvas-Back Duck. When served the breast only is carved. Stick the fork straight and firmly into the middle of the breastbone, commence from the neck down to the back, straight to the backbone, and around the back ; then from the point of starting around the collar- bone. Cut the joint off the wing. Commence cutting again from the point of start- ing ; carefully and gently carving off the entire breast so that no meat remains. Proceed precisely the same with the other side. When finished there will remain only the carcass. The more quickly the duck is cooked the finer flavored it will be ; and the hot dish for serving and also hot plates should always be ready before the ducks are done. The ducks should never be overdone. Broiled Canvas-Back Ducks. Take a fine fat canvas-back duck, pick, singe, draw and wipe it thoroughly. Split it through the back without detaching the pieces, lay on a dish to season with a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and one tablespoonful of oil. Roll the duck well in it and broil for seven minutes on both sides. Dress it on a hot dish, spread over one- half gill of maitre d'hotel butter, decorate with a bunch of watercress, and serve. Roasted Canvas-Back Ducks. Procure a fine fat canvas-back duck, pick, singe, draw thoroughly, and wipe it; throw inside a light pinch of salt, run in the head from the end of the head to the back, truss it and place in a roastingpan. Sprinkle on a little salt, put it in a brisk oven, and cook for eighteen minutes ; arrange on a very hot dish, untruss, throw in two tablespoonfuls of white broth, and serve with six slices of fried hominv for garnish, and currant jelly on a dish. Red-head and mallard ducks are prepared in exactly the same way as canvas-back. Ruddy Ducks, Broiled. Select a good, fat ruddy duck and prepare it by singeing; after picking it thor- oughly, draw and wipe it well, then split it through the back, but take care not to de- tach the pieces, then put the duck on a dish with a little salt and half the quantity of pepper, to which should be added a tablespoonful of melted butter, and broil for four minutes on each side. When cooked dress the bird upon a hot dish on a little mai- tre d'hotel butter, decorate with watercress, and serve. 338 GAME. 339 Ruddy Ducks, Roasted. Pick, singe and draw, wiping well a good, fat ruddy duck, and dredge inside a pinch or two of salt, then draw its head through an opening at the base of the neck and put it in a roastingpan, add a little more salt and set it in a brisk oven, cooking for about ten minutes. When it is done put it on a hot dish, untruss and pour a little good white broth inside the bird; cut in slices, garnish with a little fried hominv, to- gether with some currant jcllv. Broiled Teal Ducks. Choose three fine, fat teal; pick, singe and dry them; cut off their heads and split the birds into halves without separating the parts. Place them on a dish and season with one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper and one tablespoonful of sweet oil. Roll them well in it and put them to broil over a moderate fire fur seven or eight minutes on either side. Have in readiness a hot dish with six large slices of toasted bread; divide the teal and lav one-half of them on the top of each Spread over one gill of maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with a little watercress, and serve. Deviled Teal Ducks. Cut into small pieces two or three large onions, place them in a mortar, add a small piece of green ginger and six or eight green peppers, and pound them to a pulp. Add two tcaspoonfuls each of chutnev and mustard, and a small quantity each of cayenne, pepper and salt; put the mixture into a saucepan, and pour in one-half pint of claret. Cut a teal in pieces and put them in a saucepan, and let them simmer gently at the side of the fire until the meat is done; this will take a long time. Arrange the pieces of teal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Teal Ducks, Gourmet Style. After the bird has been plucked, singed and drawn, split it open down the back witli a knife, but do not divide it; pour boiling water over and remove the pink sub- stance that will be found to line the back; season the interior of the teal with spices, and brown it in a brisk oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Afterwards place the bird on a gridiron, the inside next to the fire, and broil it for five minutes. Make some rich brown gravy, thickening it with baked flour. Place the bird on a large slice of toasted bread, garnish it with groups of vegetables, slices of beet-root and quarters of lemons and oranges, and serve with a red currant jelly on a small glass dish. A fringe of watercress should also be arranged round the dish. 34Q GAME. Roast Teal Ducks. Singe, draw and truss the required number of birds, wipe them with a wet towel, cut off the heads and feet. Put one tablespoonful of butter, one saltspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper in each bird, and lay them in a dripping pan ; peel an onion, put it into the pan with the teal, set the birds in a very hot oven, and bake them for twenty minutes, basting them every five minutes, adding more butter if it is required for basting. Just before serving the birds, season them with salt, and serve with a sauce made up as follows, while they are being cooked : Peel and chop fine a shallot or onion, put it over the fire with one tablespoonful of butter, and when the butter begins to brown, stir in one tablespoonful of flour; when the flour is brown add one-half pint each of port wine and boiling water, one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce until it boils, then keep it hot. When the birds are done, pour the drippings from them into the sauce, mix them well with it, and serve hot. Broiled Wild Ducks. Pick, singe, draw and wipe well a pair of wild ducks, split them down the back without detaching, place them skin downwards on a dish, season with salt and pep- per and pour over two tablespoonfuls of oil. Boil the birds well in this marinade, place them on a broiler over a brisk fire, and broil for seven minutes on each side. Place them on a hot dish, cover with maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with watercress, and serve. Fillets of Wild Ducks. Prepare and roast the ducks as for fillets of wild ducks with game sauce, keep- ing them rather underdone. When cooked remove the fillets from the breasts and trim them neatly. Cut as many croutons of bread as there are fillets, and fry them in butter until they are of a golden brown color. Chop the livers of the ducks, sea- son with salt, pepper and finelv-minced parsley, and work in a small quantity of butter. Spread the croutons with a layer of the liver mixture, thicker in the middle than at the sides; place them for a few minutes in a hot oven, and then brown them with a salamander. Arrange the fillets and croutons in a circle on a hot dish alter- nately, pour in the center some game sauce with a few mild stoned olives in it, and serve. Fillets of Wild Ducks with Orange Sauce. Fillet three wild ducks, score the skin and put them in a bowl with onions cut in halves, a few sprigs of parsley, some mushroom catsup, and season with salt, pep- percorns, and cover with oil. When the fillets have steeped in this marinade for an hour take them out, put them in a fryingpan with a little oil, and fry them over a GAME. 34i sharp fire, turning occasionally. When done drain, arrange on a dish in a circular form, and serve with orange sauce in a sauceboat. Roasted Wild Duck. Prepare a wild duck, cut off the head and neck, scald the feet, and truss them with the duck in the same way as a fowl. Put the duck close to a sharp fire for a few minutes to brown, then move it a little way back, and baste continuallv with butter till done; just before it is taken up dredge with flour. In the meantime soak the necks and gizzards in a pint of water over the fire till the water is reduced to one- half pint, or in place of water use one-half pint of veal gravy; put into this a slice of lemon or orange, one onion, three or four leaves of basil, a blade of mace, a little pepper and salt, and boil together for a few minutes, then strain; add a wineglassful of port wine, and the juice of a lemon or orange. Dish the ducks when done, pour the gravy over them, and serve. Salmis of Wild Duck. Cut off all the flesh from two roasted wild ducks, skin and trim them, and put the meat in a stewpan, Put the bones, trimmings and skins, with four shallots, four onions (one stuck with four cloves), one bunch of parsley and half a bottle of claret in another stewpan, and boil till the liquor is reduced to half its original quan- tity; then add one and one-half pints of Spanish sauce, and simmer for twenty minutes. Skim, strain through a conical strainer into another stewpan and boil till the sauce coats the spoon. Pour one-fourth of this over the pieces of duck, and set the pan over the fire till they are hot through, but do not boil them. Dish the duck, pour over the remainder of the sauce, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Bouchees of Game. Put two and a half breakfast cupfuls of game sauce into a stewpan with the flesh of any cold cooked game cut up small; stir over the fire until hot, season with salt and a small quantity of sugar, then move the pan to the side. Roll out one pound of puff paste to a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut out some rounds with a fluted tin cutter about an inch and a half in diameter, sprinkle water over a baking sheet, lay the rounds on it and brush them over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg. With a plain tin cutter, a size smaller than the one previously used, mark a ring on the top of each piece of paste, dipping the cutter into hot water every time. Bake the paste in a quick oven for twenty minutes, keeping the oven door closed. When cooked, take the bouchees out of the oven, and lift off the lids as carefully as possible with a sharp-pointed knife so as not to break them; scrape out the soft paste, leaving a hollow, fill them with the game, replace the lids, put them on a folded napkin on a hot dish, and serve. 342 GAME. Game Croquettes. Take the white flesh of any cold roasted game; melt a lump of butter in a stew- pan and mix with it one scant tablespoonful of flour, then put in the minced game and season to taste with salt, pepper and a small quantity of nutmeg; stir over the fire until very hot, then move it to the side and mix in the beaten yolks of one or two eggs and the strained juice of half a lemon. Spread the mixture on a dish and leave it until nearlv cold. Divide and mould the mixture into small balls, dip them in beaten eggs and roll in fine breadcrumbs sufficient to cover. Put a large piece of butter or clarified fat into a flat stewpan, place it on the fire, and when the fat boils put in the croquettes and fry them until nicely and equally browned. Spread a folded napkin on a hot dish, pile the croquettes on it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Game Cutlets. Take any cold cooked game and cut the flesh into dice. Soak a third of an ounce of gelatine for an hour and a half in a breakfast cupful of water. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a fryingpan; when it is hot add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well until brown and quite smooth, add a pint of rich stock, one egg, four cloves, a tablespoonful of onion juice, and salt and pepper to taste; simmer for ten min- utes and pour it over the game. Return all to the pan and simmer for a quarter of an hour longer. Beat one egg in a basin, add it to the gelatine, stir it into the mix- ture and remove from the fire at once. Put the pan into a larger one with cold water so that it will cool, stirring well. When cold, turn the mixture into a shallow bakingdish smoothing it to about an inch in thickness and set it on the ice to get hard; cut it into cutlet shapes with a knife that has been dipped in water, then place the dish in another one of warm water to loosen the cutlets from the bottom. Pre- pare one quart of game forcemeat, cover the cutlets over with it and return them to the ice again. Beat two eggs in a basin, remove the cutlets from the ice and cover them over with the eggs and afterwards with breadcrumbs; put two or three at a time into a frying basket, plunge them into boiling fat and fry for two minutes; take them out, drain and put them on brown paper until drained. Stick a bone in the end of each, garnish it with a papcrfrill, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a dish, and serve with parsley. Deviled Game. Clean and prepare any game in season and half roast it. Mix equal quantities of salt, cayenne and curry powder and then add double this quantity of powdered dried truffles. Put the entrails and brains of the bird in a mortar, crush them well and add the yolk of a hard boiled egg, the grated rind of a lemon, a dessertspoonful of chutney, a little sov, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a wineglassful of Madeira and the juice of half an orange or lemon. Dust the bird over with the powder, put it in a GAME. 343 dish with the brain mixture, place the dish over a spirit lamp in a chafingdish, cover tightly and cook until the flesh is thoroughly incorporated with the mixture. Now add a little salad oil; let it get hot, turn out on a dish, and serve as quickly as possible. Fillets of Game in Cases. Make some cases of white paper, butter them and put a piece of bacon fat in each. Cut any cold roasted game into slices, put them in the cases, place a little bacon fat over each, strew grated breadcrumbs on the top and bake in a brisk oven until browned. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish and arrange the cases on it, garnishing here and there with fried parsley. Game Pie. Rub four ounces of butter into twelve ounces of flour and make it into a paste by adding one egg, half of which may be beaten up with water sufficient to make the paste firm and consistent. Knead it thoroughly and cut off a piece about the size of a large apple to form the lid of the pie. Butter a raised pie mould, line it with the paste, pressing it into shape and cut it round at the top, leaving about half an inch above the mould. Clean and wash any game, such as grouse, partridge, pheasant or hare, cut them up, and take out all the bones; chop up the hearts and livers, mix in one pound of sausage-meat and two ounces of breadcrumbs, blend together, working with the hand and adding pepper and salt to taste. When thoroughly mixed, put a layer of it at the bottom of the mould, then half of a bird and sprinkle it over witli a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper and half a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg; cover with another layer of the sausage-meat, together with a few halves of truffles and square pieces of cooked beef tongue, then another half bird and continue in this order until the mould is quite full. Damp the edges of the crust with a wet paste brush, cover it with the paste lid, press the edges together to anneal them, trim round the edge, decorate the top with paste leaves or flowers, brush over witli nake a hole in the center and put the pic in a moderate oven for about an hour and a half. Put the bones in a small saucepan with a little water or broth, and boil for an hour and a half; that is, while the pie is baking; strain tin's gravy and pour it into the pic, when it is done, through a funnel inserted into the hole; remove the mould shape, and when the pie is cold, take off the lid, fill it up with chopped aspic jelly, put it on a dish, garnish with more of the jelly, and serve. Salmis of Game. Cut the meat from some cold-roasted game into small pieces; break the bones and put them with the trimmings in a stewpan, add one pinch of sweet herbs, two cloves, two peppercorns and some cold water; set it on the fire and boil. Fry two small-sliced onions in butter until brown; sift in two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir 344 GAME. until cooked. Strain the liquor in which the bones were boiled, mix with it the flour and onions, put in two tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, a pinch of salt and the pieces of meat. Simmer for fifteen minutes and add a few button mushrooms. Fry some slices of bread without crusts in butter, put them on a hot dish, pour over the salmis, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Game Souffles. Cut off about two pounds of flesh from any cold roasted game, trim off the skin, chop the flesh, pound it in a mortar, then pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Mix three- quarters of a pint of Spanish sauce with one teacupful of essence of fowls and boil un- til it is reduced to one-third. Mix the pounded game into the sauce and leave it until cold. Beat the yolks of ten eggs and mix them with the puree; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the mixture and season with a little grated nut- meg and salt and pepper. Fill some small paper cases with the mixture, put them into a quick oven and bake for fifteen minutes. Place the cases on a dish, and serve garnished with fried parsley and slices of lemon. Vol-au-Yent of Cold Game. Cut the meat from any cold cooked game into pieces and mix with it an equal quantitv of cold ham or beef tongue, also cut into small pieces. Break up the bones of the bird and put them with the trimmings into a saucepan; add a blade of mace, two or three allspice, a small quantitv of salt and nutmeg, and about two-thirds of a breakfast cupful of white stock, and boil gently for half an hour. Rub the skin off a few small button mushrooms with a piece of flannel dipped in salt, put them in a stew- pan, strain the gravy from the bones over them, and stew gently. When they are nearlv cooked put in the meat with two or three tablespoonfuls of minced truffles, one teacupful of thick cream and one ounce of butter worked into a tablespoonful of flour. Stir the whole over the fire until boiled and quite thick. Prepare a vol-au-vent case bv rolling out some paste one inch thick laid on a greased baking sheet, and cutting a round as large as a dinner plate; mark out with the point of a knife an inner circle about one inch from the edge and not more than a quarter of an inch deep, bake it, and after removing the thin inner circle pile up the center with the game preparation. Cut up the thin slab from the center into shapes and lav over the game mixture, pre- viously brushing with white of egg each place where the ornament is to be laid. Pass the salamander over the top, and serve on a hot dish. Baked Wild Goose with Mushroom or Celerv Sauce. Pluck, draw and singe a wild goose and steep it in salted water for several hours. Cut an onion into slices, put it in the inside, sew it up and plunge it in a saucepan of boiling water for twenty minutes. Take it out, remove the onion and stuff the bird GAME. 345 with a little celery and mashed potatoes, a few hard boiled eggs and a little fat pork or any other cold meat, all very finely chopped; also a grated turnip, a little chopped onion, a tablespoonful of pepper, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Sew it up, truss it and put it in a bakingdish with a teacupful of stock or broth, brush over with warmed butter, dust with flour, put a piece of well-buttered paper over the breast, and bake in a moderate oven till done. Place it on a dish and pour over it either its own gravy or a little mushroom or celery sauce. Garnish the dish with sprays of water- cress, and serve. Hroiled Grouse. Singe, draw and wipe three or four grouse, split them in halves through the backs without separating the parts, lay them in a dish and season with salt, pepper and one tablespoonful of sweet oil. Roll them well in it, then put them over a brisk fire and broil for seven minutes on each side. Put one tablespoonful of butter and a finely- chopped shallot in a small saucepan on a hot range, cook for one minute, add two chopped mushrooms, moisten with one tablespoonful of rich sauce, add one table- spoonful of made mustard, stir all well together, season with salt and cayenne, and cook for one minute longer. Pour the sauce on a hot dish, place the grouse over, decorate the dish with slices of broiled bacon, lemon and truffles, and serve very hot. Fried Grouse Cutlets. Prepare three young grouse and cut them in halves lengthwise, split the drum- stick and push it inside the hip; beat each half slightly, skin, roll in clarified butter and breadcrumbs, season with salt and pepper and fry for twelve or four- teen minutes over a moderate fire, turning them so as to cook both sides. Make a sauce as follows: Put a small bunch of herbs in a saucepan with the juice of two lemons and two dessertspoonfuls of finely-chopped shallots; boil for two minutes with the cover on the pan, add one teacupful of raw mushrooms cut into small squares, simmer until the liquor is reduced, then pour in one breakfast cupful ol melted meat-glaze. When boiling move the stewpan from the fire and stir in five ounces of butter; when this is melted, without boiling, and the sauce well thick- ened, add a little vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of gherkins cut into small squares, one tablespoonful of soy and one tablespoonful of tarragon leaves chopped small. Dish the cutlets, and serve with the sauce poured over. Larded Grouse Clean and thoroughly wash a grouse, and lard the legs and breast, placing a skewer through the legs and tail; rub some warmed butter over the breast, then dredge it over with a little salt and plenty of flour. Place it on a bakingdish and set it in a brisk oven, and cook for from twenty to thirty minutes. Cover a hot dish 346 GAME. with bread sauce, put the grouse on it, and sprinkle over some fried breadcrumbs. Garnish with parsley, and serve. Grouse Pie. Singe and draw three young grouse, and remove their feet, necks and pinions; divide their bodies each into three pieces, and put them in a stewpan with the pinions and some chopped bacon; fry and put in six ounces of chopped ham (raw), a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley and a little salt and pepper. When the ham is cooked add about eighteen mushrooms cut in halves, and one tablespoonful of chopped onion; pour in two tablespoonfuls of white wine and reduce the liquor. Take the stewpan off the fire and let the contents cool. Arrange the meat in a piedish, with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters amongst it, pour over the gravy through a conical- shaped strainer, and cover with puff paste ; brush the crust over with whites of eggs, and place in a hot oven until done. Take the pie out of the oven, lift the crust, pour in a little more thickened game gravy, and serve either hot or cold. Roasted Grouse. Pluck and singe a grouse, draw it and allow it to hang in a cool place for several days. Wipe it well inside without washing, cho t . off its head and truss it; place a large lump of butter inside; put it on a spit in front of a clear fire, and roast for from thirty to forty minutes, basting frequently with butter. Put the liver of the grouse into a saucepan of water with a small lump of butter, salt and pepper to taste, boil it until it is like a paste, take it out, spread it over pieces of toast on a dish, place the grouse on the top, and serve with a sauceboatful each of rich gravy and bread sauce. Salmis of Grouse. Singe, draw, wipe and truss two grouse, season with salt, put a few small pieces of butter over them, place them in a roastingpan in a brisk oven, and cook for eight or ten minutes. Untruss and cut away the wings, legs and breasts. Place one ounce of butter in a saucepan with about one-half a carrot cut into small pieces, half an onion cut the same, two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme, and six whole peppers, and fry to a golden color, which will take about five or six minutes. Hash the bodies of the two grouse and add them to the other ingredients. Moisten with one pint of Spanish sauce, one-half breakfast cupful of mushroom liquor, one-half wineglassful of sherry, and the zest of a lemon, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cook for twenty minutes. Then put the wings, legs ami breasts into a separate saucepan and strain the sauce over, adding two minced truffles and six minced mushrooms. Cook for three minutes longer, dress them on a hot dish, and serve with croutons of fried bread for a garnish. GAME. Stewed Grouse. 347 Take a brace of grouse and truss and stuff them. Place one-fourth pound of butter or good dripping into a fryingpan and fry in it while it is quite hot, first one grouse and then the other, turning them so as to brown them all over. In the mean- time have one-half pint of good gravy heating in a small saucepan. When both birds are browned put them in a large saucepan, pour the hot gravy over, place the lid on tight and let them stew very gently for an hour until they are tender; then put them on a hot dish and cover, to keep the heat and flavor in. Let the gravy cool a little, skim off the fat that rises and strain it. Put it over the fire again, stir in enough brown flour to thicken, and boil hard for five minutes; skim again, place the birds back in the gravy and let them get quite hot, but do not let the gravy boil after they are put in. Place them on a hot dish, pour a little of the gravy over, and serve the balance in a small tureen. Green peas and currant jelly may also be served separate. Supreme of Grouse, Richelieu Style. Singe, draw and wipe three grouse, removing the skin from the breasts. With a sharp knife make an incision on the top of each breastbone from end to end. Care- fully cut off the entire breasts on both sides, including the small wing bone, taking care not to leave a particle of meat on the bones. Remove the small fillets found under the breasts, putting them one side for further use. Make an incision in the breasts at the thinnest side, about three inches long, and one inch in depth, season them inwardly with pepper and salt, stuff them with chicken forcemeat mixed with two truffles and four mushrooms, all finely sliced, and put them into a buttered saute- pan. Gently press the small fillets, using the fingers to give them a hollow shape. Make six slanting, small incisions on the top of each, and insert in them a small piece of smoked beef, one-half inch in diameter; moisten slightly the top of the breasts with water, place a fillet lengthwise on them, and sprinkle over a little clarified but- ter, using a leather brush. Pour into the pan, but not over the meat, one-fourth wineglassful of Madeira wine and two tablespoon fuls of mushroom catsup, lightly cover the pan and place it in a hot oven for ten minutes. Arrange the supremes on a hot dish, and serve witli a little Perigueux sauce boiled for three minutes with one tcacupful of tomato sauce, in a sauceboat Broiled Guinea Fowls. Pluck, singe and draw two or three Guinea fowls, wash them thoroughly, and split down the backs; wipe dry and flatten them slightly. Dust, salt and pepper over both sides, dip them in flour, and put them on a gridiron over a clear fire. Brush over frequently with a little butter, and when they have been cooking for about fifteen minutes, put them on a dish, pour over a rich gravy, and garnish with mashed potatoes. 348 GAME. Roasted Larded Guinea Fowl. Plunge, singe and draw a Guinea fowl, lard the breasts with strips of fat bacon, and truss it like a pheasant. Put it on a spit in front of a clear fire and roast for an hour, basting frequently with butter. Sprinkle it well with flour, cook for ten or fifteen minutes longer, place it on a dish, pour round a little rich gravy, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich gravy. Hares. Before cooking a hare it must be skinned, and if intended for roasting it must be trussed, so as to give it a good effect. This is done in the following manner: Chop off the feet of the first joints, lift the skin from the back, and draw it first over the hind legs and then over the fore legs; let the tail remain on with the hair; cut the skin from the head and ears, leaving the latter on, cut through the sinews of the legs, and bring the hind legs forward, passing a skewer through both of them as well as the body, and bring the fore legs back, passing a skewer through them also. Fix the head upright by means of a skewer thrust through the mouth to the back of the head and then into the back between the shoulders. Wipe the inside very dry, stuff, and sew it up. Pass a string round the ends of the skewers which fix the legs, drawing it over the back of the hare so as to keep the legs close up to the body. A very popular mode of preparing hares for cooking is to remove the bones, and re-form the body in such a way that it may be carved without difficulty. The method of procedure for this boning is as follows: The hare should be fresh. Skin and clean it as directed, and then with a sharp knife begin cutting down along the crest of the backbone, and dissect the flesh from the ribs. Do not disconnect the flesh, but leave it hanging. Separate the backbone from the head at the first joint of the neckbone, leaving the head on, then pass the knife carefully under the flesh down the middle of the back until the whole of the bone is clear. The legs may be either cut off or dissected out. The hollow from which the spine and ribs have been taken should next be stuffed with forcemeat or well-seasoned bread stuffing, the belly sewn together, and the hare fastened with string and skewers, in order to bring it into as nearly its original shape as possible. Hares Backs with Poivrade Sauce. Remove the backs of a couple of hares, lard them with strips of firm bacon fat, wrap them round with buttered or oiled paper, place them on the spit in front of a clear fire, and roast until done. About five minutes before taking them from the fire, remove the paper so as to glaze them with thin liquor, put them on a dish, ami serve poivrade sauce in a sauceboat. GAME. 349 Baked Hare. Select two nice hares, cut them into halves, separating the fore from the hind quarters. Bone the saddles down to the legs, but do not bone the legs; put them in a deep earthenware dish, pour in one wineglassful of white wine and add one fair-sized sliced lemon, one sliced and peeled onion and one sprig of thyme, seasoning with pepper, salt and two or three cloves. Roll the saddles well in the seasoning several times and place one side to steep for twelve or fourteen hours. Take out the pieces, stuff the bone saddles with a rich stuffing, give them a round shape and tie them so as to hold them firmly. Place a piece of fat pork over each saddle, put them in a roastingpan with one carrot and one onion cut into slices and placed at the bottom of the pan, and pour over one pint of broth. Put the pan in a hot oven and bake for forty-five to fifty minutes, taking care to baste frequently with the gravy that comes from them. Take them from the oven, untie, dress on a hot dish, strain the gravy over the saddles, decorate the dish with heart-shaped croutons, and serve. The fore quarters can be used for civets or other dishes. Broiled Hare. Rub the legs and shoulders of a hare with butter, lay them in a deep earthen- ware dish with one large sliced onion, a small quantity of thyme and parsley, a bay- leaf, a moderate quantity of pepper and salt, one breakfast cupful of vinegar, and hall as much water. Cover the hare with another disli and let it macerate for two days. Drain the pieces of hare, rub again with butter, lay them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning when done on one side. When cooked lay the pieces on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin and garnished with fried parsley, and serve. Civet of Hare. Skin and clean a hare, using care to save all the blood; chop off the hind legs, and cut them up into two or three pieces; also divide the bodv into equal parts. Cut one-half pound of bacon into small pieces about one inch in thickness, and blanch in boiling water. Remove, drain and fry in a stewpan with a little butter until quite brown; take them from the pan, throw in the pieces of hare and cook until they are quite firm. Lift them out, and mix in a little flour to thicken the gravy; then add one quart of broth, and one pint of red wine. Put the pieces of hare back again, also the bacon, and add a bunch of parsley, a few spices, onions, pepper and salt to taste, and a little trimmings of mushrooms. Put the pan on the fire again and boil for an hour. Skim off the fat and place the pieces of hare and bacon (one at a time) in a clean saucepan. Skim the sauce again, put it on the fire and reduce until it is quite thick and will stick to the hare after having been passed through a fine sieve. Put a few onions fried in butter to a light brown in a saucepan with a little broth, and stew 3SO GAME. them; add a few mushrooms also fried in butter, and the blood and liver to thicken. Warm up and let it remain on the side of the fire, taking care not to boil it, or the blood will be likely to curdle, when the sauce would not be dark enough in color. Place the pieces of meat on a dish, and serve with onion broth poured over the hare. Civet of Hare, Bourgeoise. Clean a hare and cut into small pieces, saving the blood. Put two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and stir them over the fire until well mixed; then put in the pieces of hare, with a few slices of fat bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, some mushrooms and artichoke bottoms, a few small onions fried in butter and pepper and salt, moistening with one-half pint of white wine and enough stock to cover. Stew the hare until tender, and then put the pieces on a dish. Skim the sauce, remove the bunch of herbs, add the crushed liver of the hare, also the blood, and boil again. Pour the sauce over the hare, and serve. Civet of Hare, French Style. Skin a good-sized hare, draw it, and preserve the blood should there be any, and also the liver, with the gall carefully removed. Place the blood and the liver on the same dish, and cut the hare into a dozen pieces; put these into a stone jar, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding also one sliced onion, one sprig of thyme, two bay leaves and half a wineglassful of white wine; stir all together well, and steep for six hours. Remove the pieces of hare, put them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, adding twelve glazed small onions, and one ounce of salted pork cut into small pieces, and cook on a sharp fire for ten minutes; then add three tablespoonfuls of flour; stir thoroughly and moisten with one wineglassful of red wine and one pint of white broth, and stir until it boils, seasoning again with pepper and salt. Cook for one hour longer, and fifteen minutes before it is done put in the blood; also the heart and liver, both finely chopped and mixed together. Serve with croutons of fried bread for a garnish. Fried Fillets of Hare with Quenelles. Take two fillets of hare, trim, cut them slantwise across into five pieces each, moisten and beat a little, then sprinkle them over with salt and pepper. Pour a little melted butter into a flat stewpan, and put in the fillets, arranging them side by side. Prepare a little game gravy with the bones and remaining parts of the hare, adding a small quantity of thickened brown sauce. Prepare a forcemeat with the trimmings of the fillets, shape them into quenelles with a small spoon, and poach them in salted water. Place the pan with the fillets on the fire and fry briskly, turning them in order to cook both sides. Take out and drain ; pour on four tablespoon- GAME. 351 fuls of sauce, put them on a dish and pour the remainder of the sauce over. Place the quenelles around the dish, and serve. Larded Fillets of Hare, Minute Style. Skin and clean a hare, cut off the fillets, lard and put them into a basin, season with ground mixed spice, pour over enough oil to moisten, and let them soak for one hour. In the meantime pour some stock in a saucepan, and reduce it nearly to a glaze; then add a slice of fat bacon and the larded fillets, cover with a piece of but- tered paper, and simmer for twelve minutes, bv which time the fillets should be well cooked and browned. Great care should be taken not to let the fillets burn. Put them onto a dish, add a little rich stock to the glaze, stir well, pour it over, and serve. Fillets of Hare with Poivrade Sauce. Clean two hares, cut off the fillets, remove the skin, and lard them well, using a small needle. Place them in a deep dish, and season with salt and pepper, adding one onion and one carrot cut in small pieces, and half a dozen tablcspoonfuls of white wine. Let all soak together for two hours, then transfer all to a baking- pan, with some scraps of pork rind placed at the bottom of the pan, and put this in the oven to cook. Place the fillets on a dish, pour in the pan one gill of hot broth, allow it to come to the boil, strain it over the fillets and serve with poivrade sauce separately. Gibelotte of Hare. Proceed the same way as for civet of hare, French stvle, replacing the reel wine with one pint of white broth, and adding twelve whole mushrooms five minutes before serving. Hare Pie. Skin a hare and cut into joints, putting the blood into a basin, or, if more conven- ient, cut into half-joints. Chop fine one pound of veal and mix it with an equal quantity of sausage meat; chop two shallots, mix them with some finely-minced pars- ley or thyme, and dust over with salt and pepper; chop also some veal bones into very small pieces. Put a layer of the hare meat at the bottom of the pie-dish, then a layer of the sausage and veal mince, sprinkle over with the parsley and shallot, and cover the whole with some bacon. When the dish is nearly full add the blood and a half-pint of Madeira, put three bay leaves on the top, cover over with the lid, seal it hermeti- cally with paste made of flour and water and bake in a slow oven for ten hours. It is usually put in a baker's oven and left there for the night. The veal bones should be added to the meat and put about it indiscriminately. 352 GAME. Roasted Hare with Cream Sauce. Prepare a hare and if it is an old one lard it with fine strips of bacon. Boil the liver, chop it and mix half of it with enough chopped beef-suet, herbs, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, and bind the whole together with beaten egg. Stuff the hare with the mixture, sew it up and fix it in front of a clear fire, putting it some dis- tance off at first and afterwards bringing it closer. Baste with three pints of milk until half cooked and then finish with butter. Prepare the following sauce for it : Pour the milk with which the hare was first basted into a saucepan, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, let it stew within twenty minutes of the hare being cooked, and then strain it. Salmis of Hare. Clean and skin a hare, split it down the back and cut off all the fillets with their bones attached. Put the remainder of the hare into a saucepan with a rich sauce and stew until the meat will easily leave the bones; stew also the liver together with a little calf's liver and pound them in a mortar with butter and seasoning; also pound the stewed flesh of the hare with more seasoning and butter, keeping them separate from the liver. Put two breakfast cupfuls of stale breadcrumbs into a basin, pour over one pint of boiling cream, throw in a raw onion and a bay leaf and let it get cold. Take out the onion and bay leaf and work in a large piece of butter, a season- ing of white pepper, mace and salt. Mix half of this with the liver and the othtr half with the pounded hare meat. Place these two mixtures in alternate layers in a mould and steam them for an hour. Arrange the cutlets on a dish with one-half pound of melted butter poured over, allow them to soak, spread them out to cool, fry in butter, turn the contents of the mould out onto a dish and arrange the cutlets round, lean- ing them against it. Then pour around a good rich sauce made from truffles, red wine and any bones of hare not previously used, season all to taste and thicken with roux. Stewed Hare. Skin and wash a hare, draw off all the blood and cut into halves through the middle. Lard the hare as thickly as possible and put it into a saucepan covered at the bottom with slices of bacon. Place a large bunch of parsley in a muslin bag with a few bay leaves, a little thyme, a clove, sweet basil, spices and add with four onions, two or three carrots, two calf's feet and a few pieces of bacon cut from the breast; dust over a little salt and pepper and add one pint of white wine and two tablcspoon- fuls of broth. Place a round of well-buttered paper over the hare to keep it from burning or becoming dry, place the lid on the saucepan, seal hermetically by luting the rim and edge with flour and water paste, and cook for three hours at the side of the fire and very gently. Take off the lid, remove the hare, drain and put it on a GAME. 353 dish. Skim the liquor and pass it through a sieve. Place a little butter and flour in a saucepan and when it is of a light color add the liquor from the hare, boil it up, serve with the hare, but not poured over it. Timbales of Hare. Trim off all the skin of some cold cooked hare, chop the flesh, place it in a mortar and pound till smooth; mix it with one-third of its quantity of grated bread- crumbs, a little finclv-chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Whisk the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, stir them in with the mixture and add a few drops of clear gravy to bring all to a proper consistence. Butter some small timbale moulds, fill them with the mixture, place them in a stewpan with boiling water to three-fourths of their height, and steam for about half an hour. Warm a little rich gravy and mix it with one tablespoonful of claret. When ready turn the timbales out onto a hot dish, pour round the gravy, and serve. Ballotines of Larks. Bone the required quantity of larks, fill them with chicken forcemeat, place a truffle turned to a ball shape into each bird, and fold them round it. Tie each lark up in a small cloth and braise it in Madeira and mirepoix. Place a bed of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, take the cloth off the larks, arrange them over the center of the bed, reduce some Spanish sauce with essence of lark, pour it over the larks, and serve. Broiled Larks. Truss and prepare the required quantity of larks; brush over with beat, sprinkle with plenty of breadcrumbs, place them on a gridiron, and broil over a very clear fire. Lay some slices of bread on a hot dish, dress the larks on them, pour a little rich brown gravy around, and serve. Larks in Cases. Pluck, singe, draw, and bone the larks; stuff each bird with a mixture composed of three parts minced white flesh of cooked chicken and one part ham and raw bacon seasoned with chopped sage, salt and pepper, and a small quantity of pounded mace. Butter as many paper cases as there are birds, spread a layer of the same forcemeat in each, place the birds in the cases, place a slice of bacon over each, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is cooked remove the bacon, pour a small quantity of rich gravy and a few drops of lemon juice in each case, stand them on a hot dish over which has been placed a fancy-edged dibh-papcr, garnish with parsley and cut lemons, and serve. 354 GAME. Lark Patties. Clean and bone the required quantity of larks, open and season them slightly; mix some forcemeat with a little chopped truffles, place a little in each lark and roll them up in a round shape. Line some small pie-moulds with short paste, put a layer of forcemeat at the bottom of each mould, then the larks, spread another thin layer of forcemeat on the top. cover the patties with short paste, pinching the edges to make them stick, egg the tops, then put a round of puff paste on each. Egg the tops once more and place the patties in a hot oven to bake for twenty minutes. When they are cooked cut off the covers and pour in one tablespoonful of Spanish sauce, reduced with a little essence of lark, place the covers on again, and serve while they are hot. Larks, Portuguese Style. clean, bone and cut the wings and legs off one dozen larks, place the ind trimmings in a stewpan with a small carrot and a small onion cut into i bav leaf, a few cloves, a bunch of parslev, and cover the bottom of the stew- pan with some sherrv wine; allow this to reduce, then moisten with good gravy; let all simmer gently for an hour, then strain it. Prepare a chicken forcemeat and place it in a biscuit bag. also have cooked a dozen small black truffles, as round as possible, and no larger than an olive. Stuff the larks with the forcemeat and put in the center of them a small round truffle, roll the larks very neatly and wrap each in a piece of muslin, and tie with a string. Put them into a stewpan with some bacon over the bottom, and pour in a little strong gravy as above, and bake them in a hot oven for thirty minutes. Meanwhile prepare and cook one dozen mushrooms, take half a pint of Spanish sauce and place it in a sautepan with the same quantity of tomato sauce. six tablespoonfuls of gravy and a little essence of lark, reduced to half-glaze. Shape the mushrooms with a plain round cutter, arrange them in a sautepan, unwrap and place one on each lark, sticking them with the remains of the chicken forcemeat, cover and place in the oven for a few mini • - e them, dress them on a plain border made from chicken forcemeat or mashed potatoes, and pile in the center some rice cooked with white stock. Put a little of the sauce over the larks, and serve the remainder in a sauceboat. Roasted Larks. Clean and prepare the larks, tie them up in thin slices of fat bacon and then in in front of a clear fire, basting frequently with butter and turning I very rapidlv. Serve hot. Lark Scallops on a Croustadc. Cut the fillets from about fifteen larks; place them in a sautepan with a piece of .•nl fry them. When cooked, drain and let them GAME. 355 cool. Slice the same quantity of truffles as there are larks. Reduce some partridge chaurroid sauce with a little essence of larks and mix it with the cooked fillets of larks and the sliced truffles. Prepare a fried bread croustade, put it on a hot dish, ar- range the scollops on it in the shape of a pyramid, garnish the dish with croutons of aspic jelly, and serve. Broiled Ortolans in Papers. Rub with melted butter or salad oil as many sheets of paper as there are birds and cut them just large enough to double over the birds and turn in all round the edges like a hem in order to preserve the fat and trail while the birds arc being cooked. Carefully pluck and singe the birds, cut off the beaks and claws, skin the heads and necks and wipe them with a clean cloth; twist the feet, lav the heads close to the sides of the birds and inclose in the paper. Place them on a gridiron over a very slow fire and broil for about five minutes or until they swim in their own fat. Serve them at once in the papers on a plate covered with watercress. The papers are not to be removed till just before eating the birds. Fried Ortolans. Draw and singe twenty-four ortolans, put them in a frvingpan with some melted bacon and two bav leaves sprinkled over with salt and pepper and frv over a brisk fire, turning them frequently. Strain off the fat, add some vinegar and some melted glaze and reduce the liquor quickly over a brisk fire. Take out the bay leaves, add a salpicon of lean smoked ham steeped in water and a little Spanish sauce reduced with white wine and warm the ham without boiling the liquor. Arrange the birds in a pile in the center of a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with a garnish of small quenelles. Ortolans in Cases. Pluck, draw, and singe one dozen ortolans, and put them into small cases masked with Perigueux sauce, putting their heads through a hole cut for the purpose. Place them in a quick oven for a few minutes, or they may be salamandered, and when t hex- are (lone, damp them with a little more of the perigueux, and serve. Care must be- taken in drawing them to take out their gizzards. Ortolan Patties. Make six patties of tart paste in fluted moulds made with hinges so that they will open to let out the patty crusts when done; fill them with flour and bake. When set take them out of the moulds and let them get cold. Place at the bottom of each one tablespoonful of royal salpicon, and then place in each patty two well picked, line, fat, raw, seasoned ortolans, covered with a thin slice of bacon ; lav them on a 35 6 GAME. small baking pan, place in a moderate oven and bake for fifteen minutes. Remove from the oven, take off the lard from the birds, moisten each patty with two table- spoonfuls of hot Madeira sauce, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin placed over it. Ortolans, Perigordine. Prepare the birds as for roasting, cover them with slices of fat bacon, put them in a saucepan, set in the bain-marie, add a little stock mixed with lemon juice, baste them with this, and cook them. Scoop out the center from as many truffles as there are birds, put them into a saucepan with sufficient champagne to boil them in, take them out when done and stuff with a little game puree. Put them into the saucepan with the ortolans, warm them all up for a few seconds, arrange them on a dish, and serve with a little of the sauce to moisten them. Ortolans, Provincial Style. Procure as many large truffles as there are birds to be cooked and make some French forcemeat. Remove the feet and heads from the birds and season well with salt and pepper; lav the birds on their backs on the truffles, put them in a deep stew- pan with two gills of red wine and about the same quantity of clear veal stock and cover with slices of bacon; cover and stew slowly. When they are cooked remove the birds and truffles and keep them hot; strain the sauce through a fine sieve, skim off all the fat, pour it into a small, clean stewpan and boil till reduced to half its original quantity. Mix with the sauce one breakfast cupful of brown Spanish sauce and boil it again until somewhat reduced. Put some pieces of toast on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, put the birds and truffles on them, and serve. Roasted Ortolans. Pluck and singe one dozen ortolans, make a hole in the sides and remove the gizzards, but do not draw them. Stuff the heads into the holes, wrap them round with thin slices of fat bacon and put them in the oven to roast. Let them remain for ten or twelve minutes, sprinkle over with salt, arrange them on a dish on croutons of fried bread, and serve. Thev may be wrapped in vine leaves (freshly gathered) if preferred instead of the bacon, which destroys the delicate flavor to a certain extent. A rich sauce should be served with them. Boiled Partridges With Cream Sauce. Pluck, singe and draw six birds without breaking the entrails, wipe them with a wet towel and put them in a pan with sufficient boiling water to cover; add one table- spoonful of salt and boil them slowly for fifteen minutes. Meanwhile put one-half pint of thick cream into a saucepan set in a pan of boiling water, add to it one table- spoonful of butter and one-fourth saltspoonful of white pepper, and stir one way till GAME. 357 the butter is melted, then leave the sauce where it will keep hot. When the par- tridges are done put them on a hot dish, drv them with a soft cloth, pour the cream sauce over, and serve them hot, garnished with sprigs of parsley. Braised Partridges. draw and truss three partridges as for boiling, put them in a stewpan with a slice of chopped fat bacon, and a bunch or faggot of sweet herbs and frv them till nicelv colored all over: then pour in a little wine, put the lid on the stewpan with a few hot ashes on it, and let them braise gently. When nearly done put in with the partridges one-half pound of ham, cut in dice, and four large cloves of garlic that have been boiled in plentv of water; sprinkle a little Spanish red pepper over, and continue cooking for about fifteen minutes. When done take the partridges out. drain, remove the strings, put them on a hot dish, and garnish around with the garlic and ham; take the sweet herbs out of the cooking stcck, skim the fat off. thicken it with a little brown sauce, pour it over the partridges, and serve. Braised Partridges and Cabbage. Truss a couple of old partridges as for boiled chickens. Put them in a sautepan and brown them slightly over a brisk fire. Cut some bacon and two onions into dice, put them in a braising pan with the partridges, surround them with stock and braise till three parts done. Wash thoroughly a young cabbage, then blanch, drain, and drv it; put it in with the partridges, and finish cooking them together. When cooked make a bed of the cabbage on a hot dish and put the patridges on it with the pieces of bacon around. Strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair sieve, boil it until reduced, keeping the partridges hot at the same time. When ready pour the sauce- round, and serve. Braised Partridges, Financiere. Singe, draw, wipe and truss two partridges with their wings inside. Lav a piece of pork rind in a saucepan, adding one carrot and one onion, both cut in slices, two bay leaves, one sprig of thyme, and the two partridges, seasoning with a little salt and pepper. When the birds have assumed a good golden colur on the hot stove, moisten with one-half pint of broth; put the saucepan in the oven and cook for twenty minutes longer. Dress them on a dish, untruss, pour over one-half pint of hot financiere sauce, and serve. The gravy from the partridges can be utilized for making the financiere sauce. Braised Partridges, Perigueux. Clean three partridges and tru>s them as for boiling. Fasten some thin slices of fat bacon round them, put them in a stewpan with three-fourths of a pint of mirepoix and one-fourth pint of essence of truffles, put a sheet of buttered paper over them. 358 GAME. stand the stewpan over a slow fire and let the contents simmer till the partridges are done. Cut a three-sided block of bread three inches high, two and one-half inches at the base and one and one-half inches at the top, fry it, and then fix it in the middle of a dish with a paste prepared with a little flour and white of egg. Drain the par- tridges when cooked and place one on each side of the bread. Shape three large partridge forcemeat quenelles like pears and put one between each bird; mix some essence of partridge with perigueux sauce, pour it over the birds, put a large truffle on top of the bread, fill a sauceboat with the same sauce, and serve it with the par- tridges. Braised Partridges with Truffles. Prepare and truss three partridges as for boiling, put them in a stewpan with some mirepoix and cook them; when done drain and arrange them on a hot dish to form a hollow triangle. Put round some sliced truffles that have been mixed with supreme sauce, fill a sauceboat with supreme sauce, and serve. Broiled Partridges, American Style. Singe, draw and wipe neatly three tender partridges; cut them in halves, lav them on a dish and season with a little salt, pepper and one tablespoonful of oil. Roll them in well and put them to broil for seven minutes on each side. Prepare six slices of fried hominv, arrange them on a hot dish, place the partridges over and pour one gill of maitrc d'hotel butter on top; place six slices of broiled bacon over the birds, and serve. Broiled Partridge Cutlets with Colbert Sauce. Chop three tender partridges each in halves lengthwise, sprinkle salt and pepper over them, dip them in warmed butter, then in breadcrumbs, put them on a gridiron and broil over a clear slow fire, turn them when done on one side and finish the other. When cooked put the partridges on a hot dish, pour over some Colbert sauce, and serve. Chartreuse of Partridges. Cut a cabbage into quarters, wash it well, plunge it into boiling water, then soak it in cold water for two hours. Drain and squeeze all the water out of the cabbage, cut the stalks out, tie the pieces together, and put them in a stewpan with two or three slices of streaky bacon previously blanched; pour some general stock, mixed with essence of partridge, over it, put in some clarified fat, and finish as described for Cabbage for Garnishing. Cut some carrots and turnips into slices two inches long with a vegetable cutter, and cook them separately, as described for Garnishes. Put a round of paper at the bottom of a plain entree-mould that has been buttered, garnish it with pieces of carrot and turnip, and put a layer of cabbage in the mould. Cut up GAME. 359 three roast partridges, put four fillets on the cabbage, then put another layer of the cabbage on them; continue with alternate layers of partridge and cabbage till the mould is full. Stand the mould in a bain-marie till the contents are warm. When ready to serve turn the chartreuse onto an entree dish, and arrange alternately round the base some rounds of carrots and turnips, with a string bean between each. Put some rings of turnip round the top of the chartreuse and a Brussels sprout in each. Make a sort of cup or vase with a carrot, fill it with string beans, and place it in the center. Reduce some Spanish sauce with essence of partridge, fill a sauceboat with it, and serve with the chartreuse. Partridge Croustades. Truss eight partridges as for braising, fasten a thin slice of bacon on each one, put them in a stewpan with some mirepoix, stand them over a slow fire and simmer till clone. Prepare fourteen truffles, eight cockscombs, and eight large crayfish as for garnish. Cut an oval shaped piece of bread, fry it, put it on a dish, and place a block of fried bread in the center. Drain the partridges when cooked, arrange them, necks downward, against the block of bread, and put a crayfish between each. Stick a silver skewer garnished with cockscombs and truffles in each bird, so as to form a circle, and place the remaining truffles inside the circle. Fill a silver casserole with a financiere garnishing that has had some Spanish sauce reduced with essence of partridge mixed with it, and serve. Fillets of Partridges, Financiere. Trim and lard the fillets of six partridges with thin strips of bacon, put them in a sautepan with a little united glaze and cook them. Make a croustade of paste the same size as the dish on which the fillets are to be served and two inches deep. Prepare a financiere garnishing of foies gras, truffles, mushrooms, cockscombs and kernels and chicken forcemeat quenelles mixed in a financiere sauce. Trim the minion fillets into scallops and mix them in the garnishing, half of which should be turned into the croustade. Arrange the fillets on it in a circle, pile the remaining garnishing in the center, and serve with a sauceboatlul of financiere sauce. Fillets of Partridges, Toulouse. Cut the fillets off six partridges and trim and curve them slightly; put the large- ones in one buttered sautepan and the minion fillets in another. Stick a little piece of truffle with the white of an egg on the round ends of each of the small fillets. Pry the large fillets and when cooked drain and arrange them round a croustade on a hot dish. Cook the small fillets in the oven and when done put in a circle on the others. Pill the croustade with cocks' kernels mixed in supreme sauce, pour some supreme sauce over the fillets, and serve. 360 GAME. Fillets of Partridges with Truffles. Cut the fillets off the breasts of some partridges, making four fillets of each breast, trim them to a nice shape, lav them in a thickly buttered baking tin, dust over with salt and cover with a sheet of "buttered paper. Slightly roast the birds from which the fillets have been removed, cut them into small pieces, put them in a saucepan with a few trimmings of ham, two or three cloves and peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs, two shallots, salt to taste and a sufficient quantity of clear stock to cover; one wineglassful of claret may also be added if liked. Boil the whole over a slow fire for from one and a half to two hours. Stir one ounce of butter and one- half ounce of flour in a stewpan over the fire. Skim and strain the liquor from the birds and stir it in gradually with the butter and flour; put in a few button mush- rooms and truffles and boil them gentlv until cooked. Put the fillets in the oven and bake them till just set. When the truffles and mushrooms are cooked take them out of the sauce and pile them in the center of a hot dish; drain the fillets from the butter, arrange them round the truffles, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Partridge Pie. Singe, draw and clean three partridges, put them in a fryingpan with a little but- ter, season them well and fry lightly. Line the inside of a pie-dish with some veal cutlets, and over that put a slice of bacon, a little chopped parsley and two chopped mushrooms. Cut the partridges in halves, put them in and place two more chopped mushrooms and a little chopped parsley over; cut some hard-boiled eggs in halves, put them on the top and pour in one-half pint of gravy. Put a strip of puff paste round the edge of the dish, place a cover of the paste on the top and press them to- gether; dip a pastebrush in beaten egg, brush the top of the pie over with it and make a small hole in the center. Put it in a hot oven with a piece of paper on top to prevent its browning too much, and bake it for an hour. Serve either hot or cold. Partridges, Princess Beatrice Style. Prepare three partridges, truss them for roasting, and lard their breasts with thin strips of fat smoked bacon. The larding can be done in a fancy design. Lay the birds in a basin with some verjuice and leave them for an hour or two. When read} . drain and wipe them very carefully on a dry cloth without disturbing the pattern of tin' larding. Butter some sheets of broiling- paper, wrap each bird separately in it and roa>t them in the oven, keeping them well basted. In about half an hour re- move the paper and brown the birds. Lay them on a hot dish garnished with water rre^s, and serve witli a clear sauce. GAME. 361 Puree of Partridge. Empty and clean three partidges, put them in a braisingpan with a little game broth and braise them. When done let them cool. Strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair-sieve, skim off all the fat, put it in a stewpan with double its quantity of veloute sauce and boil till reduced to the thickness of thick supreme sauce. Take all the meat from the partridges when cold, chop it, put it in a mortar and pound, pouring on at the same time the sauce. Pass the puree through a fine hair-sieve and it is then ready for use. Roasted Partridges. Pluck the partridges, draw and truss them, and fasten some thin slices of fat bacon round them, roast for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Five minutes before dish- ing take the bacon off, sprinkle a little salt over the birds, and brown them. Put the partridges on a hot dish, and serve them with a sauceboatful of brown gravy. Roasted Partridge, Perigord. Pluck, singe, and draw three partridges. Put four ounces of scraped fat bacon in a stewpan with three bay leaves, a blade of mace, and two or three cloves, and place over the fire till boiling; then take out the bay leaves, cloves and mace. Finely chop three large truffles, put them in with the fat, also put in ten sliced truffles, pour in one quart of white sauce, and boil it until thickly reduced, keeping it well stirred at the same time. Move the pan to the side of the fire, stir in quickly the beaten yolks of two eggs, and pour it on the plate. When the truffle mixture is cold, stuff the partridges with it, then hang them up and leave them for a few days, so as to be well flavored with the truffles. When ready for cooking, wrap the birds separately in sheets of buttered paper, fix them on a roasting pan and roast them in a hot oven for half an hour, l'our two quarts of white sauce into a saucepan with one pint of veal broth, put it over the fire, and when it boils add a few thinly-sliced French truffles, and a scant teaspoon ful of sugar. Stir and boil it until thickly reduced, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. When cooked take the birds out of the sheets of paper, put them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve while very hot. Roasted Partridges Stuffed with Truffles. Singe and draw two young red partridges. Peel six black truffles, cut them in quarters and sprinkle salt and pepper over them. Chop the livers of the partridges that have been cooked with two chickens' livers, an equal quantity of fat bacon and the trimmings of the truffles; put the mince in a mortar, pound it and pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Put some bacon fat in a fryingpan, and when melted put in the truffles ; toss them about over the fire for two or three minutes, then mix them with the 3 bi GAME. forcemeat and stuff the partridges with it ; truss, lay them in a roastingpan, spread with butter and set the pan in the oven, basting the birds occasionally with their own butter. When the birds are cooked (they will take from twenty to twenty-five min- utes, according to their size), sprinkle salt over and put them on a hot dish. Mix a little gravy in the drippings, skim off the fat, and boil it till reduced to half its orig- inal quantity, then strain it through a fine hair-sieve. Garnish the partridges with slices of lemon, and serve them with the sauce in a sauceboat. Salmis of Partridges. Truss three perfectly fresh partridges as for roasting, put them in a sautepan with a little butter, and brown them over a brisk fire. Leave them till half cold, then cut the wings and legs off and separate the breasts; pare and trim each piece. Put the carcasses, trimmings, and some fat bacon in a stewpan, and with them prepare a little rich gravy. Fry the livers in butter, then put them in a mortar and pound them, add them to some brown sauce, stir it over the fire till hot, then skim and pass if through a fine hair-sieve. Put it again in the saucepan, strain the gravy in, turn the legs of the partridges in, and warm them. Arrange the legs on a hot dish, put the wings on them, and the breasts at the top. Put some croutons of fried bread, mushrooms, and truffles round the dish, pour the sauce into a sauceboat, and serve. Partridge Sauted, Hunter's Style. Singe, draw and wipe two fine, tender partridges, cut them into twelve pieces, place them in a sautepan with one ounce of butter, add a little salt and pepper, and brown well for three minutes on each side; add a finely-chopped shallot, one-half wineglassful of Madeira wine, one-half pint of Spanish sauce, and twelve whole mush- rooms. Cook for fifteen minutes longer, then serve with six croutons of bread round the dish for garnish. Stewed Partridges. Procure three partridges, old ones will do, lard them, and truss them as for boil- ing. Line a stewpan with slices of fat bacon, put in the parti idges, breasts down- wards, with a slice of lean veal, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a few chopped savory vegetables; pour in a teacupful each of gravy and white wine. Let all cook over a slow fire for an hour and a half; then place the partridges on a hot dish, strain their cooking liquor over them, garnish with cut lemons and fried parsley, and serve. Stewed Partridges, Chipolata. Cut a partridge into quarters, put it into a pan with butter, and fry it until brown, dusting it over with Hour. Put in two dozen small onions, one-half pound of sausages cut into thin slices and fried, si\ chopped mushrooms, and twelve roasted chestnuts; GAME. 363 add seasoning to taste, pour in two or three wineglassfuls of white wine, and stew till all is tender. Thicken the sauce, turn the whole onto a dish, and serve with croutons of fried bread. Stewed Partridges, Montmorency. Truss some young partridges as for stewed partridges, Spanish style. Dip the breasts into boiling water to make them firm, then plunge them into cold water, and lard them with bacon. Put some slices of fat bacon at the bottom of the stewpan, put the partridges in, put some more rashers of fat bacon on the top of them, and moisten to half their height with fowl broth. Stand the pan over a brisk fire for a few minutes, then move to the side and cook slowly for twenty minutes. Glaze, take them out, drain, and glaze again. Put them on a hot dish, and serve with a Dutch sauce. Stewed Partridges, Spanish Style. Pluck two or three partridges carefully so as not to injure the skin, clean them, cut off the sinew that is under the joints of the legs, and skewer the legs up towards the breast. Fill a needle with packthread, run it through the stump of the right wing, then through the thick joint of the leg, next across the bodv, and then again through the other stump; then tighten the packthread and fasten the knot. Run the needle through from the back to the side beneath the leg, and then above the pinion below the breast, so as to perforate the breast bone, let the needle come out from the part parallel to that where it was first introduced, then through the side to the back, and then fasten the packthread. Care should be taken to give the birds as nice a shape as possible. Put some slices of bacon at the bottom of a large stewpan, put the partridges in, cover them with more bacon, pour in some rich fowl broth, cover, and cook for twenty minutes over a slow fire. When done drain them, place on a hot dish, pour over some Spanish sauce in which has been mixed a little glaze, and serve. How to Truss Pheasants, Etc. Pheasants arc trussed in the same manner as fowls, and so are partridges and grouse, with the exception that, like all small wild fowl, the legs are crossed and the heads skinned and threaded on skewers through the pinions; pigeons and other birds of a similar size are trussed in such a manner as to make the breasts plum]) out. Snipe and woodcock are trussed in France by thrusting the long beak through the body and fastening the wings under the thighs; woodcocks are sometimes trussed with the head "hooded," as it is called, under the skin of the breast. Braised Pheasant. Prepare and truss a pheasant as for boiling. Line a stewpan with slices of fat bacon and one or two thick slices of veal, put in the bird, season it well with salt 3 6 4 GAME. and pepper, add a few sweet herbs, cover it with more slices of bacon and veal, cover the stewpan down perfectly air-tight, and put it in a moderate oven and cook for two hours. When done place it on a hot dish, strain over it some of the gravy that will have run from it while cooking, garnish it with sliced lemons, and serve. Braised Pheasant, Financiere. Prepare and braise two pheasants. Then prepare a financiere, garnishing with foies gras, cockscombs, truffles and pheasant forcemeat quenelles, and mix with them some financiere sauce. Put a block of fried bread in the center of a dish, sticking it onto the dish with the white of egg and flour paste; arrange the pheasants, leaning against each end of the bread, put the garnishing in the dish in order, put a row of pheasant forcemeat quenelles between each pheasant, a cooked and larded sweetbread each side of the bread, with cooked truffles on each. Put four crayfish and some cockscombs in the spaces, and put another larded and sweetbread on top of the bread. Get five silver attelettes and garnish them with cockscombs, truffles and crayfish, stick them in the pheasants and sweetbreads, and serve with a sauceboatful of financiere sauce that has been reduced with essence of pheasant. Broiled Pheasant. Cut the bird into four pieces and fry them in lard; when nicely browned all over and half done through, take them from the fire, drain the lard from them, brush over with beaten egg, roll them in a paper of breadcrumbs mixed with salt and cayenne, put them on a hot well-greased gridiron and broil them for ten minutes over a clear fire. Fillets of Pheasants, Maintenon. Take the fillets from two large young pheasants and cut each in two slices, beat them lightly, season with salt and pepper, put them into a sautcpan with two table- spoonfuls of olive oil and saute them over a quick fire, keeping them rather under- done. When cooked, take the fillets out and drain them. Put two chopped onions in the sautcpan and fry them till lightly browned, adding more oil if necessary; then mix in two tablcspoonfuls each of chopped mushrooms and chopped parsley and one pint of white sauce seasoning with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg and one-half tea- spoonful of sugar. Bail the sauce till thickly reduced, stirring it at the same time; put the fillets in the sauce, move it away from the tire and leave it till cold. Cut as many pieces of white paper as there are fillets into heart-shaped pieces; put a fillet on each with the sauce divided equally and wrap the papers over, twisting them well it the ends. Broil the fillets over a clear, but slow fire. Winn rooked put them on a hot dish, leaving them in their papers, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich gravy. GAME. 365 Fried Fillets of Pheasants with Truffles. Cut off the fillets of two young but well-hung pheasants; put them in a saute- pan with some thin slices of truffles and fry them in clarified butter. When nicely browned on both sides drain them, place on a sheet of paper on the table and trim them all to the same shape, leaving the truffles to cook a little longer; put the fillets in the sautepan again and give them one or two turns over the fire. Reduce some bechamel sauce with essence of truffles and pheasants; drain the fillets and truffles, arrange them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Deviled Legs of Pheasants. Take the legs of cold roast pheasants, score them across four or five times, rub mustard, salt and pepper into the cuts, and broil them on a hot gridiron with a piece of cold butter laid on each leg. Serve as hot as possible. Pheasant Perigueux. Pluck, singe and draw a pheasant and make the following forcemeat: Peel one- half pound of fresh truffles, chop and pound them in a mortar with three ounces of bacon fat. Put the pounded mixture in a small saucepan and stir it over the fire until hot through; then turn it in a basin, let it get cold, and season it to taste. Stuff the bird with this and leave it for two days to absorb the flavor of the truffles. Wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper, lav it in a roasting pan and set it in the oven to roast, keeping it well basted. When the pheasant is cooked remove the paper, place it on a hot dish, pour round it a rich brown gravy made from the necks, gizzards, etc.. and serve, garnished with truffles and potato croquettes, with a little mushroom catsup and essence of ham added Roasted Pheasant. Singe and truss the bird and put inside a shallot and a lump of butter; lard the breast close with thin strips of bacon, and tie a thin strip of bacon over the larded part. Roast the bird in a good hot oven, basting it often with butter. Five minutes before taking the bird from the oven remove the slice of bacon ami brown the larded part. When cooked place the bird on a hot dish, strew over it some crumbs of bread that have been fried brown in butter, and serve it with a sauceboatful each of rich brown gravy and bread sauce. Salmis of Pheasant. Cut off the flesh of a cold roast pheasant, remove the skin, and trim each piece nicely; put the bones and trimmings in a stewpan with two shallots, a clove of garlic, a laurel leaf, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a small piece of meat glaze, moisten 366 GAME. with one pint of white wine and one tablespoonful of rich gravy. Stew the whole gently till the sauce has sufficiently reduced, then strain it through a fine hair-sieve. Return it to the saucepan, put in the pieces of pheasant meat, heat them through but do not boil the sauce again. Arrange the meat on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of an orange into the sauce, pour it round the meat, garnish with sippets of toast, or crou- tons of bread that have been fried brown in butter, and serve while very hot. Pheasant Soubise. Truss a pheasant as for boiled chicken, put it in a braisingpan with a layer of bacon, some chopped vegetables, some sweet herbs, and one-half pint of stock, and braise it. When cooked take it out of the braisingpan, drain it and dry it in front of the fire. Place it on a hot dish, surround it with soubise sauce, and serve- Braised Plovers. Line a braisingpan with sliced bacon and beef cut about half an inch thick, put in a couple of carrots, two small onions, a bunch of thyme and bay leaves, together with some mixed herbs, pepper and salt, and a little grated nutmeg and mixed spice; then put in the birds, fasten on the lid tightly, solder the edges of the pan to prevent air from getting inside, and cover the lid with live embers, simmer until done, or nearly so, when the heat should be somewhat lessened until quite cooked, then place on a hot dish and stand them near the fire. Skim off all the fat from the liquor and pass it through a fine hair-sieve over the birds, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, and garnish with egL, r croquettes and watercress. Broiled Plovers. Secure six fine fat plovers, pick, singe, draw and wipe them well, pick out the eyes, and split them through the back without separating the parts, and place them upon a dish. Season with a pinch of salt and half as much pepper, and add a table- spoonful of oil. Rub in the seasoning thoroughly, and place the birds on a broiler to cook for four minutes on cither side; then dress them on a hot dish with six pieces of toast, spread over a gill of maitre d'hotel butter, decorating with a little watei and serve. Fried Plovers with Truffles. Place four plovers in a saucepan after cleaning, drawing and trussing them, and add five ounces of butter, a couple of cloves, and a few raw truffles cut into slices, with salt and pepper to taste. Place the pan over a brisk tire and cook for about ten minutes or so, then add two tablespoonfuls of Hour and a wineglassful of white wine to a half pint of the stock; pour it into a saucepan, place it over a fire and cook GAME. 367 gently for twenty minutes, stirring frequently. When done, arrange the birds on ;i dish, add the juice of one lemon to the stock, boil again for a few minutes, and pour it over the plovers, and they are ready for serving. Roasted Plovers. Pluck and singe the desired number of birds, take out the gizzards, but leaving the remainder of the entrails inside. Tic a thin slice of fat bacon over the breast of each bird, and range them in a hot oven to roast. Place in a drippingpan some slices of toast and baste them continually with butter; just preparatory to removing the birds from the fire, take off the rashers of bacon and dust them with salt; when the birds arc done, place the toasts on a hot dish, with a bird on each, decorate with quartered lemons, and serve with a sauceboat of white sauce. (2.) Pick, singe, draw and wipe six tender and fat plovers, pick out the eves, and truss the legs together, and skewer the head under one leg; then lay a thin slice of larding pork on each bird, tie them securely, and put in a roastingpan, seasoning with a little salt, spread over a very little butter, and put them on a spit, roasting for ten minutes, Then take them from the fire, and arrange six small canapes for game on a hot dish, dress the plovers on them, garnish with a little watercress, and serve. Salmis of Plover, Maison d'Or. Procure six fat plovers, pick, singe and draw, pick out their eyes, skin the heads, wipe, and sprinkle oyer with a little salt; place in a roastingpan and cook for four minutes, then cut off the legs and necks, reserving the heads for future use. Chop up half a carrot and onion, put them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter and a small garnished bouquet and six whole peppers; cook for five minutes, add a break- fast cupful of Spanish sauce, half a wineglassful of sherry, and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, sprinkling over salt and pepper to taste; then cook them for fifteen minutes longer. Run the bills through good-sized mushrooms, stick them into the breasts of the plovers, and place them in a sautcpan, strain over the liquor, and add a dozen mushrooms cut in halves and the zest of a lemon, cook for six minutes, then put them on a dish, strain over the sauce, and serve with croutons of fried bread covered with cooked goose's fat livers for a garnish. Fricassee of Prairie Chicken. After thoroughly cleaning and singeing the bird, cut it up at the joints and flatten them a little with a cutlet bat; put the pieces of the bird into a saucepan with an onion stuck with a couple of cloves and a bunch composed of one or two small sprigs of thyme, parsley and bay leaf, pour in enough broth to cover, and place the pan over the fire until the liquor boils, then remove it to one side and let it simmer until tin- bird has become tender. Place two ounces of butter in a stewpan with a table- 368 GAME. spoonful of flour, stir over the fire until melted, then pour in the cooking liquor of the bird, passing it through a strainer, and season to taste with salt and pepper, and con- tinue stirring over the fire until it boils again; put a few sliced mushrooms in the liquor and boil a few minutes longer, then put in the pieces of the bird. Stir the beaten yolk of one egg into the fricassee and turn it onto a hot dish, serving immcdiatelv. Roasted Prairie Chicken. Having cleaned and singed the bird, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the stomach and legs and rub it in thoroughlv; lay some thin slices of bacon on the breast, fastening them in position with twine, then wrap the bird in a sheet of well buttered paper, lay it on a roastingpan, and roast it in a hot oven, basting continuallv. It should cook in twenty minutes or half an hour, according to its age. About five minutes before taking it out remove the paper, but allowing the slices of bacon to remain on it; place the bird on a hot dish, mix in the juice of half a lemon with the gravy in the drippingpan, season with a little salt and pepper, and strain through a fine hair-sieve over the bird, garnishing with watercress, and serve. Stewed Prairie Chicken. Put about three tablespoonfuls of small squares of fat salted pork into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and toss them about over a brisk fire until melted, then pre- pare and truss a bird, put it in the fat with a bunch of sweet herbs, one large onion and a small carrot, cut in slices and fry the whole together until it begins to color, then moisten to height with white wine and broth mixed in equal amounts and keep it simmering gently at the side of the fire. When the bird has become tender, place it on a hot dish; boil the cooking liquor for a few minutes so as to slightly reduce it and pour it through a strainer onto the bird, and serve. A puree of either beans. peas, asparagus or mushrooms is a good accompaniment to this dish, Broiled Quails. Singe and draw the quails, split them lengthwise down the back and wipe them with a damp cloth. Season with salt and pepper, rub them well in warmed butter and dredge with flour. Place the birds on a gridiron over a clear fire and broil for ten minutes. Cut some thick slices of bread, remove the crusts, toast and butter them and lay them on a hot dish. Place a quail when cooked on each slice, garnish with parsley, and serve. Broiled Qiiails with Bacon. Singe, draw and wipe well half a dozen fine fat quails, split them through the back without separating the parts, and break the two leg-bones. Place them on a dish, season with a pinch of salt, onc-ha'f pinch of pepper and one tablcspoonful of GAME. 369 sweet oil, mixing them in well, and place them on a moderate fire to broil for six minutes on both sides. Arrange six pieces of toast on a hot dish, place the quails on top, pour over one gill of maitre d'hotel butter, decorating with six slices of broiled bacon, and serve. Quails Crapaudine. Singe and draw the quails, remove the claws and truss them with their legs •nward. Pinch the breast and scallop it without reaching the skin; beat the birds flat, sprinkle over salt and pepper and dip them twice in clarified butter and bread- crumbs. Boil them over a clear fire, and serve with Italian sauce. Larded Quails. Singe, draw and wash the quails, lard the breasts and legs, run a small skewer through the legs and tail and bind them firmly round with thread. Baste the breasts with ;i small quantity of clarified butter, dust a little salt over and dredge them thickly with flour. Place the quails in a bakingdish and bake them in a quick oven for fif- teen minutes. Put a layer of bread sauce on a hot dish; when cooked untie the birds, place them on the dish with the bread sauce, sift plenty of fried breadcrumbs over them, garnish with a little parsley, and serve. Quails in Cases. Singe and draw the quails and remove half of the backbones. Fry the livers of the quails with the same quantity of chicken's livers in a small quantity of rasped bacon fat and season them with pepper and salt. When cold pound the fried livers with an equal quantity of chopped ham and some chopped truffles. Stuff the truffles with half of the prepared forcemeat, truss them, place them in a stewpan with a little butter and fry until half cooked. Mix with the remainder of the forcemeat two or three tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs. Spread a layer of it in the bot- tom of the required number of oiled oval-shaped paper cases and place a quail in each; spread two sheets of paper over a baking sheet, put the cases on it and bake them in a moderate oven for twenty minutes or so. When the birds are cooked take the cases up, place them on a hot dish, pour in each a small quantity of sauce that has been reduced in Madeira, and serve. Quails Jardiniere. Draw and truss the quails, and place them in a stewpan with some thin slices of fat bacon, one breakfast cupful of mirepoix, and one teacupful of Madeira; stew them gently until cooked. Butter a plain border mould, fill it with braised cabbage-let- tuces and press them tightly down. Turn the border out on a hot dish, and fill the 370 GAME. center with cooked carrots, turnips and French beans ; arrange the quails, resting half on the borders and half on the vegetables, brush them and the border over with melted glaze, and serve with a sauceboatful of melted glaze. Roasted Quails. To prepare this dish successfully a clear hot open fire is best, but in lieu of that a very hot oven will answer. Pluck, singe and draw the birds, wipe them with a wet towel, cut off the heads and feet, wrap each bird in a slice of fat salted pork, and pack them closelv in a saucepan just large enough to hold them. Season the quails highly with salt and cayenne, pour over just enough boiling water to cover them, place the cover on the saucepan, and place it on a hot fire for five or ten minutes. Then take up the quails, remove the pork, wipe the birds on a clean towel, rub them all over with butter and roast them brown before a very hot fire, or in a hot oven, basting them twice with more butter and their drippings. Meanwhile strain the gravv in which they were stewed, and melt it with an equal quantity of red currant jelly to form a sauce, or serve cold red currant jelly with them. Serve the birds hot as soon as they are browned Salmis of Quails. Draw and prepare two quails, cut them into halves lengthwise down the back, place them in a pan with a small quantity of butter, and cook them. Have in readi- ness two croutons of fried bread, and place the birds on them ; reduce and thicken the liquor, strain it, pour it over the birds and serve with a little lemon juice squeezed over each. Quails with Green Peas. Singe, draw and truss the quails as for boiling, place them in a stewpan with a piece of butter, and fry till they are nicely browned; then put in one-half pound of streaky bacon, blanched and cut into squares, one and one-half pints of green peas, one onion, a bunch of parsley, salt, and a sufficient quantity of broth to cook them in. Place the lid on the stewpan and let the contents simmer by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes. When cooked drain the quails ami cut off the strings. Remove the parsley and onion from the peas, stir a piece of kneaded flour and butter in with them, turn the peas onto a hot dish, put the quails round on the peas, with the legs toward the center, brush them over with melted glaze, and serve. Deviled Rabbit. Cut a rabbit into joints ami parboil them; when they are entirelv cold, score them to the bone, making the cuts about one-half inch apart. Melt over the tire three ounces of butter, mix with it a little cayenne pepper, salt and mustard, one table- spoonful of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of Worcestershire same; stir all this well GAME. 37 together, rub each piece of rabbit with it, rubbing it thoroughly into the scoring, and broil them on a hot gridiron over a clear, brisk fire, turning the pieces as soon as they commence to drip. When they are brown pile them on a hot dish, melt some butter, and pour it over. Allow them to lie in this for three or four minutes, turning them often. If any of the mixture is left pour it over, and serve. Fillets of Rabbit, Valencienne Style. Skin the rabbits, cut the fillets from the bones, and if large cut each fillet into halves, trim them to the shape of a small cutlet, beat them, place them in a well- buttered sautepan, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, sprinkle them over with pepper and salt, and stand them over a moderate fire, turning them when cooked on cne side, and finishing the other. The fillets should not be browned. When quite firm arrange them in a circle on a hot dish. Pour a little more than one pint of sauce into the sautepan, with one breakfast cupful of white stock, stir it over the fire, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of a spoon; then stir in one-half teacupful of cream, and a small. quantity of lemon juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the fillets, and serve. Jugged Rabbit. Clean a rabbit, disjoint it and cut the body into four pieces. Cut one-half pound of lean salt pork into small pieces, put them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, and toss it over the fire until the butter has melted; then put in the pieces of rabbit, and fry them until lightly browned Sprinkle over one tablespoonl'ul of Hour, pour in one-half pint each of claret and broth, add eight or ten small onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic, and two or three cloves, and place the stewpan over the fire until the contents boil; then move it to the side, ami allow them to simmer gently until the rabbit is tender. When cooked, place the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, arrange the onions round them, strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair-sieve, and serve. Rabbit Pic. Clean and skin two or more rabbits, cut them up into joints, and then again into small pieces, removing all the largest bones; add about one pound of steak, and a few slices of bacon also cut up small, sprinkle the whole over with fmelv-minced parsley and thyme, and salt and pepper to taste; put them at the bottom of a pie- dish intermixed with a few forcemeat balls or volks of hard-boiled eggs, pour over enough stock or water to moisten, place a crust of light paste on the top. brush it over with beaten eggs slightly salted, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake for a couple of hours. When cooked take it out, and serve it either hot or cold. 372 GAME. Roasted Rabbit with Olives. Clean a rabbit well, lard its fleshv parts with strips of salted pork, wrap it up in a sheet of buttered paper, fastening it with skewers or binding twine round it, and roast it in a hot even, basting it frequently. About ten minutes before removing the rabbit from the oven, the paper should be removed to allow it to brown. When the rabbit is cooked, pour the gravy out of the drippingpan into a small saucepan, add some clear beef gravy if there is not sufficient, season it to taste with salt and pepper, and put in three dozen stoned olives. Stir the sauce over the fire and boil it for five minutes. Untruss the rabbit, and place it on a hot dish, garnish round with the olives, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Rabbit Sauted. Skin and clean well a young rabbit and cut it up into joints. Put a few pieces of ham into a sautepan with a little butter, toss the pan over the fire for a few minutes, add the pieces of rabbit and a little each of finely-chopped parsley, thyme and onion, and cook for a few minutes longer; sprinkle flour over the rabbit, pour in stock and white wine in equal proportions and enough to moisten, remove the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until the meat is quite tender. Place the meat on a dish to keep it hot; pour the sauce through a sieve into a saucepan, add a few chopped mushrooms, stew for a few minutes longer, pour it over the rabbit, and serve very hot. Stewed Rabbit. Draw, skin and wash a rabbit, and cut it into pieces about two inches in length. Cut one-half pound of streaky bacon into pieces about one and one-half inches long by one inch in width, blanch and dry them, put them into a fryingpan with one ounce of butter and fry to a light brown color. Take them out, put in fifteen button mush- rooms and fry them also, then put them on a plate and keep them hot. Put the pieces of rabbit into the fryingpan and fry them gently for ten minutes, then dust in one ounce of flour, stir well for a couple of minutes, and add three tcacupfuls each of broth and red wine, a bunch of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, and the mushrooms and pieces of bacon. Place the pan at the edge of the fire and simmer gently for about twenty minutes, then add two more pints of mushrooms and cook for five minutes longer. Remove the herbs, turn the remainder out onto a hot dish, and serve it immediately. Stewed Rabbits with Fine Herbs. Put a few chopped mushrooms and shallots into a saucepan with a small quantity of butter, add a little minced parsley, place the saucepan over the fire and cook them until done; then put in two rabbits cut up into pieces, dust them over with salt, pepper GAME. 373 and grated nutmeg, add a small bunch of sweet herbs, and toss the pan over the fire for a few minutes; pour in one breakfast cupful of white wine, place the lid on the pan, pile hot ashes on it, and let it remain on the fire for about twenty minutes. Add the juice of a lemon, a small lump of both butter and game glaze, sprinkle over a small quantity of flour, and stir well for two or three minutes. Turn the whole out onto a dish, piling it up, and serve. Broiled Reedbirds. Dress the reedbirds without splitting them, place an ovster in each one, season them with salt and pepper, broil them quickly over a hot clear fire for about five minutes, and serve at once. Fried Reedbirds. Pluck and dress the birds, splitting them down the back; season them rather highly with salt and pepper, roll them in flour, cornmeal or sifted bread or cracker crumbs and fry them brown in butter or lard equally mixed and made smoking hot before the birds are placed in it. Or dress, split and season them. They must be served hot as soon as they are brown. Roasted Reedbirds. Procure a dozen freshly killed, fine, fat reedbirds, cut off their legs and wings, pick the eves out, remove the skin from the heads, clean and wipe them neatly and with a skewer remove the gizzards from the sides; then cover their breasts lightly with thin slices of bacon, arrange them on three small skewers, four on each one, and place them in a roastingpan; season with a pinch of salt, spread over a very little butter, and stand them in the oven to roast for seven minutes. Place them on a hot dish on pieces of toast, and serve at once. Broiled Snipes. Pick, sifige, draw and dry eight fine snipes, remove the skin from the heads, split them into halves without detaching the parts, and place them on a dish. Season with one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper and one tablespoonful of oil; put them to broil (with the bills stuck into the breasts), and allow them to cook for four minutes on either side. Put six slices of hot toast on a hot dish, arrange the snipes on them, spread one gill of maitre d' hotel butter on top, decorate the dish with watercress, and serve. Fillets of Snipes in Cases. Detach the fillets from the bones of some snipes, trim them neatly and lay them in a buttered stewpan. Prepare a puree with the legs of the snipes, a few poultrv livers, some game giblets, boiled rice, stock and butter. Procure as many paper cases 374 GAME. as there are fillets and brush over their interiors with oil. Fry the fillets over a brisk fire, turning them when they are cooked on one side. Fill the cases with the puree, then place a fillet of snipe in each case. Coat the top of each with some brown sauce that has been reduced with the essence of game, place the cases on a baking sheet, and place them in the oven for a few minutes to glaze. Arrange the cases piled up on a folded napkin on a hot dish, and serve. Roasted Snipes. Pluck, singe and draw some snipes and take out the backbones. Chop fine a quantity of fresh pork and mix with it an equal amount of chopped raw mushrooms, one pinch of shallot, some parsley, salt and pepper. Fill the birds with the above mixture, sew them up and truss; fix the snipes on a spit and roast them in front of a clear fire, or, if not convenient, roast them in the oven, basting them constantlv with butter. Place some slices of bread underneath the birds in the drippingpan. Put two sliced onions into a stewpan with a small lump of butter, season with salt and pepper, and fry until well browned; then dredge in a little flour, and stir in by degrees about one-half pint of stock, and boil it gently until the onions are cooked. Fry the trails of the snipes with three chickens' livers, season them, pound and pass them through a fine hair-sieve. Put the puree of trails into a saucepan with a little white wine and the onions, stir them over the fire for a few minutes, but do not allow them to boil. When cooked remove the snipes from the fire, brush them over with melted glaze, put the pieces of bread from the drippingpan on a hot dish, stand the snipes on them, pour the sauce over, and serve. Salmis of Snipes. Divide eight cold roasted snipes into two pieces each, trim off the necks, skin the feet and place the bodies in a sautepan; put the bones and trimmings in a mortar and pound them; then put them in a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs, three cloves, two shallots, and one-half pint of claret. Boil quickly till the liquor has reduced to half its original quantity, then pour in one pint of Spanish sauce and let it simmer by the side of the fire for about thirty minutes, skimming frequently. Strain the sauce through a silk sieve into another saucepan and boil it quickly until it is reduced to a thick cream. Pour a little of the sauce into the sautepan with the snipes and warm without boiling. Put the pieces of snipe on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Squirrels, American Style. Put slices of fat bacon in a bakingdish. Skin and wash a squirrel, wipe it dry, lay it on the bacon and place two slices of fat bacon on the top. Bake in a mod- erate oven and when done, lav it on a hot dish and keep it in front of the fire until GAME. 375 wanted to serve. Take the bacon out of the bakingdish, dredge into the gravy one tablespoonful of flour and stir it over the fire until it is brown. Pour into the gravy one teacupful of brown stock, a little walnut catsup or tomato sauce and a small lump of butter. Stir the above over the fire until the butter has dissolved, then re- move it, cool it a little, pour it over the squirrel, garnish with stewed corn and po- tato-balls, and serve. Broiled Squirrel. Wash and wipe a squirrel dry, brush it over with warm butter or bacon-fat and broil it over a clear fire for ten minutes. When cooked, place the squirrel on a hot dish, set some slices of broiled salt pork on top of it and pour some rich brown gravy, garnish round with boiled potatoes, and serve. Broiled Venison Chops. Cut the chops of a moderate thickness, remove the bones and season the chops with salt and pepper, then put them into a basin, baste them with olive oil and allow them to steep in it for two days. When ready for them place the chops on a greased gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire for twenty minutes, turning them when halt done. When cooked place the chops on a hot dish, brush them over with a paste brush dipped in glaze, and serve them with a dish of butter. Broiled Venison Chops with Chestnut Puree. Take half a dozen fine venison chops, pare, flatten them a trifle, and put them on a plate, with one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper and one tablespoonful of oil. Roll them well in this seasoning, and put them to broil for lour minutes on each side. Put one pint of hot puree of chestnuts on a dish, place the chops over, and serve with a gravy poured over all. Fried Venison Chops. Season the chops with pepper and salt, place them in a frvingpan with a lump of butter, and fry over a clear fire, turning them frequently. Trim some mushrooms, put them in a small saucepan, pour over one-half pint of brown gravy, season to taste with salt and pepper, and let them simmer gently while the chops are cooking. In the course of twenty minutes the chops should be cooked; then put them on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve without delay. Venison Collops. Trim off the skin and sinews from any remains of cold cooked venison, chop fine the flesh and mix with it one-third of the quantity of finely-minced baron and one teacupful of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Season the mixture to taste with salt, 376 GAME. pepper and a few mixed herbs, and bind it well with beaten eggs. When well worked together divide the mixture into small quantities, which roll into balls, flatten them and dip them into beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs. Place a lump of butter in a fryingpan, melt it, put in the collops and fry them until nicely browned on both sides. When cooked drain them, arrange on a dish that has been spread over with a folded napkin, and serve with a sauceboatful of piquant sauce. Braised Venison Cutlets. Lard the cutlets and put them into a stewpan with a bunch of thyme and pars- ley, two carrots and one sliced onion. Pour in a small quantity of gravy and braise the cutlets for twenty minutes. When cooked brush them over with a little melted glaze, arrange them on a hot dish, and serve them with a sauceboatful of piquant sauce. Broiled Venison Cutlets. Cut some cutlets off the breast of a doc, remove the chine bone and trim round the other end of the bone; beat the cutlets lightly, season them with salt and pepper and lav them on a deep dish, spread some chopped onions and parsley leaves over them, cover with good oil and allow them to macerate for two or three hours in a cool place. Drain the cutlets, place them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side and finishing the other. Make some piquant sauce and mix with it at least two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. When the cutlets are nicclv browned arrange them, overlapping each other, on a hot dish, pour the prepared sauce over them, and serve. Roasted Fillet of Venison. Lard the fillet of venison with narrow strips of bacon, trimming it neatly; put it in a basin with one onion, stuck with three cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little black pepper, and cover with equal quantities of white wine and vinegar; allow it to soak for two days. At the end of that time roast the fillet in a hot oven, basting it continually with the marinading stock. When cooked place the fillet on a hot dish, mix a little of the basting-liquor with some poivrade sauce, and serve it in a sauce- boat with the fillet. Fillet of Venison, St. Hubert. Lard with strips of bacon, some thick slices cut from a fillet of venison. Place a lump of butter in a saucepan; then put in the slices of venison, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and cover them with red wine and stock in equal quantities. Stew the venison by the side of the fire, then stir in a little brown thickening, and add a lump of sugar and some sliced gherkins. When cooked, turn the veni>on onto a hot dish, and serve it without delay. GAME. 377 Roasted Forequarter of Venison. Bone the venison, beat it well and rub it with salt. Prepare a paste of flour, eggs, a pinch of salt, and a small quantity of water, and leave it in a cool place for an hour; then roll it out thinly, cover it with slices of bacon, place the venison on the bacon, sprinkle some salt and pepper over it, and wrap it up. Dampen the edges of the paste with water, and press them firmly together, wrap in a sheet of buttered paper, and roast it in a hot oven on a baking pan. Fifteen minutes before taking the venison up, remove the paper and paste. When cooked take the joint carefully off the pan, place it on a hot dish, and serve with red currant jelly, and a sauceboatful of poivrade sauce. Jugged Venison with Poivrade Sauce. Take two and one-half pounds of venison, the lower part if possible, as the lean parts are preferable, and cut it into small square pieces ; place these in an earthenware jar with one sliced onion, one-half hunch of parsley roots, a sprig of thyme, two or three bay leaves, a dozen whole peppers, two pinches of salt, one-half pinch of pepper, and one-half wineglassful of vinegar. Allow them to marinade for twelve hours. Drain off the juice, put the venison into a sautepan with one ounce of clarified butter, and cook for ten minutes; then add three tablespoonfuls of Hour, stirring it well while adding. Moisten with one and one-half pints of broth, also the marinade liquor well strained. Season with one pinch of salt, and half a pinch of pepper, and cook for forty minutes longer. Arrange the civet on a hot dish, sprinkle over a little chopped parsley, and serve. Roast Leg of Venison. Remove the dry skin from the leg, wipe it with a damp cloth, and cover it with a (lour and water paste. Put tin- venison in a baking tin and roast it in a very hot oven. Haste the meat continually, cook it for about an hour and a half, then remove the paste, coat it with butter, and sprinkle it well with flour. Cook for one hour longer, basting it frequently with butter, salt and flour. When cooked place the venison on a hot dish, and serve it with a sauceboatful of game-sauce. The above mentioned time is intended for a leg weighing about fifteen pounds. Roasted Venison. The loin, haunch, saddle or shoulder of venison may be roasted. After the piece has been carefully trimmed and freed from hairs, wipe it with a wet towel, season it with pepper and salt, cover it with several thicknesses of buttered paper, or with a paste made of flour and water, to retain its juice, place it in the oven and roast it twenty minutes for each pound of meat. Take off the paste or paper and quickly 3 ;8 GAME. brown the venison. If a frothy appearance is desired, dredge the meat with flour, and baste it with butter before browning it. Serve very hot with red currant jelly. Baked Saddle of Venison. The saddle of venison is the double loin. Have the ribs cut off close to use for soup, stew or pastry. Wipe all the hairs off with a soft cloth dampened in warm water, tie thickly-buttered paper over the upper part of the saddle, lav it on a rack in a bakingpan and quickly brown the joint in a hot oven; then remove the paper and season with salt and pepper. Put into the drippingpan one teaspoonful each of butter, boiling water and red currant jelly, and baste the venison with this sauce until it is entirely brown, then serve hot with the sauce in a sauccboat. Saddle of Venison, Polish Style. Prepare a saddle or haunch of a buck (one that has not been fattened being prefera- ble), place in a stewpan, add two quarts of cooked marinade stock. Allow it to re- main in this for four hours, turning it frequently; take it out, allow it to drain, lard the fillets with bacon, place it in a braisingpan and moisten to half the height of the meat with broth and a small quantity of its marinade., Braise it on a moderate fire and baste frequently. Dish it up, garnish with a pile of round truffles and two mushrooms stuffed along the sides, and a pile of sourkraut at each end. Pour over a little brown sauce that has been prepared with the meat, and serve the balance of the sauce in a sauccboat. Roasted Saddle of Venison. Procure a small saddle of venison weighing about five pounds, pare it neatly, remove the sinews from the surface and lard it with a larding-necdle, tying it three times round. Put into a roastingpan one sliced onion and one sliced carrot, then put in the saddle, seasoning with one pinch of salt; spread over one-half ounce of butter and stand it in a brisk oven for fifty minutes, basting it frequently with its own gravy. Untie before lifting it from the pan, and arrange it on a hot dish. Pour into the pan one wineglassful of Madeira wine and one gill of white broth, and let it come to a boil on the stove. Skim off the fat, strain the lean part over the saddle, and serve it with one-half pint of hot currant jelly sauce in a sauccboat. Roasted Shoulder of Venison, French Style. Bone and stuff a shoulder of venison, lard it, and either roast or bake it, protect- ing the lardoons with several thicknesses of buttered paper. If the meat is basted while it is being cooked, take eare not to baste the larded part, as that would soften the lardoons. When the venison is nearly done .season it with salt and cayenne, GAME. 379 remove the buttered paper, brown the lardoons and then remove the skins used to confine the stuffing, and serve the venison hot with red currant jelly or any suitable sauce. Broiled Venison Steaks. Cut two or three pounds of venison into steaks about one-half inch thick and broil them on a buttered gridiron over a very hot fire for four minutes on either side. While the steaks are being broiled melt on a dish before the fire equal parts of red currant jelly and butter, one tablespoonful each to every pound of venison, and a seasoning of salt and pepper; place the steaks on this when they are broiled, turn them over once, and serve them hot. Venison Steaks, Hunter's Style. Procure from a newly killed deer a fine leg of about five pounds weight, remove the bone, cut off half a dozen slices, pare and flatten them, p t them on a plate and season with one pinch each of salt and pepper, one-third of a pinch of nut- meg and one tablespoonful of oil, rolling them well. Broil them for five minutes li side over a brisk, clear fire. Dress on a hot dish, and serve with one gill of maitre d'hotel butter, decorating the dish with a small quantity of watercress. Stewed Venison. Cut the meat into fairly small square pieces. Put about three ounces of butter in a stewpan, melt it and then dredge in a small quantity of flour, stirring at the same time to mix with the butter. Put in two or three tablespoonfuls of bacon cut into small squares, two chopped shallots, half a dozen small onions, two cloves of garlic, and a few mushrooms. Put in the meat, season with salt and pepper and pour insuf- ficient claret and water mixed in equal quantities to cover the whole. Boil the meat gently at the side of the fire until tender, then remove it from the stewpan, skim the fat off the sauce, remove the garlic, and boil it quickly until rather thick and brown. .Arrange the meat on a hot dish, pour tue sauce and other ingredients over it. and sen e without delay. Grilled Widgeon: Remove the heads, neck and wings from a brace of widgeons, split them down the back and truss as for spatchcock. Remove the breast-bones and rub the interior of the birds with mushroom powder. Put the trimmings ami bones into a stewpan with the gizzards and livers, one teaspoonful of made mustard, one wine- glassful of port wine, salt, pepper and cayenne to taste, a small quantity of brown stock, and boil gently for half an hour. Lav the birds on a gridiron and broil them over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side. When cooked, lay the birds 380 GAME. on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the gravy and strain it over them. Serve while very hot. Mallard or pintail can be used in place of widgeons if preferred. Roasted Widgeons. Pluck and singe a brace of widgeons, cutoff the heads and claws, draw the birds without breaking the entrails and wipe them with a wet cloth; rub them all over with cold butter, dredge them with flour and roast them for about twenty minutes. Care- fully preserve all the gravy that flows from them, and when nearly done sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Serve at once with their gravy and red currant jelly, or with orange essence made as follows: Chop very finely two peeled onions or one shallot, grate the yellow rind of a large orange and chop one ounce of ham or bacon very fine; put these ingredients into a small saucepan, add to them a small sprink- ling of salt and pepper, one-half pint of gravy from roasted wild fowl, one gill of port wine and one saltspoonful of salt, and simmer all gently for ten minutes. Mean- while squeeze the juice from a whole orange and half a lemon into a sauceboat. At the end of ten minutes strain the sauce into the orange and lemon juice, and serve immediately. Broiled Woodcocks. Pluck, singe, draw, pick out the eyes, and remove the skin from the heads of six fine woodcocks, wipe them neatly, and split them through the backs without separat- ing the parts. Put them on a dish, season with a little salt and pepper, and a table- spoonful of sweet oil. Roll them well with the seasoning and put them on to broil with the bills stuck in the breasts. Let them broil for four minutes on each side, then arrange them on a dish with six pieces of heart-shaped fried bread covered with minced hearts and livers as for roasted woodcock, spread over a gill of maitre h 'hotel butter, decorate with six slices of fat bacon, and serve. Fillets of Woodcock in Surprise. Roast some woodcock in a hot oven, keeping them rather underdone. When cooked cut the fillets carefully off the breasts of the woodcocks, cover each with chicken forcemeat, and let them simmer in some stock for ten or twelve minutes. Put as many dressed cockscombs as there are fillets in a little stock, and warm them. Put a border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, arrange the fillets, and cockscombs alternately on them, pour over some veloute game-sauce and serve. Fillets of Woodcocks, Lucullus. Singe and draw some birds, fix them on a spit and roast, keeping them rather underdone. Make about one-half pound of chicken forcemeat, take the fillets off the birds, spread them over with the forcemeat, brush over with beaten egg, lay them in GAME. 381 a buttered sautepan, pour in sufficient white stock to cover them, and boil gently for a few minutes. Chop the flesh off the legs and the trails, put it in a mortar, pound and pass through a fine hair-sieve. Put the pounded meat in a saucepan with one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of game-sauce (which can be made from the bones of the birds) and boil it till thick, move the sauce to the side of the fire and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Arrange the fillets of woodcocks in a circle on a hot dish, alter- nating each with a crouton of fried bread, pour the sauce in the middle of the dish, and serve. Fillets of Woodcock on Toast. Separate the fillets from the bones of some woodcocks, trim them neatly, season with salt and pepper, and brush over with warmed butter. Chop the trails of the birds and mix them with some chopped parsley, shallots and scraped bacon, and season the mixture with salt and pepper. Cut some crusts of bread longer than the fillets, make some deep slits down the edges, fry them in butter, then scoop out the crumb. Fill the crusts with the chopped trail mixture and bake them. Put the fillets of woodcocks in a frvingpan with some butter and fry them. Mix some meat glaze with some stock that should have been made with the pounded carcass of the birds. When cooked place the crusts on a hot dish, put a fillet on each crust, and serve them with the sauce in a sauceboat Fillets of Woodcock with Truffle Puree. Separate the fillets from the bones of the birds, trim, and put them in a frying- pan, season with a little salt and pepper, and baste with a little warmed butter. Stud each of the minion fillets with a small square of truffle, lav them in a bakingdish with a small lump of butter, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake in the oven. Fry the large fillets over a moderate fire. Fix a croustade in the center of a hot dish and fill it with truffle puree. Arrange the large fillets when cooked in a circle round the croustade, then place the minion fillets around them. Pour over the fillets some essence of woodcocks that have been mixed with a small quantity of half glaze, and serve then. Woodcocks in Croustades. Singe and bone some woodcocks and sprinkle them inwardly with pepper and salt. Break the back and bones into small pieces, put them in a steupan with a lump of butter, and fry them over a clear fire till browned, and then cover them with white wine and broth and let simmer for twenty minutes. Strain the liquor off the bones into another stewpan, boil it till reduced to half glaze, then thicken it with two or three tablespoonfuls of sauce. Put the trails of the woodcocks and five or six chickens' livers in a frvingpan with some bacon fat and fry them quickly; add salt and pepper, leave till cool, then pound them in a mortar with half their quantity of 382 GAME. chopped bacon and the same of panada. Mix four tablespoonfuls of chopped raw truffles with the above mixture and stuff the birds with it, roll one bird to a round shape and the remainder to an oval shape, fastening them securely with twine. Place two or three rashers of bacon and some sliced vegetables, such as carrots, turnips and onions, at the bottom of a stewpan, put in the birds, sprinkle a little salt over them, pour in to half their height some white wine and broth mixed in equal quantities, put the lid on the pan and braise the birds. Cut as many small croustades of bread as there are birds, shaping one round and the rest oval, make a cut round on the upper surface with the point of a knife, and fry them in fat till nicely browned. When done, drain, scoop them out, and spread a thin layer of game quenelle forcemeat all over the insides. Put the croustades in the oven and bake them till the forcemeat has set. When done, fit the birds in the bread cases and pour the sauce over them. Arrange the croustades on an ornamental dish-paper that has been placed on a hot dish, putting the oval-shaped ones all round and the round one in the center, and serve while hot. Woodcocks, Minute Style. Put three ounces of butter in a small fryingpan over a good fire, add some shred shallots, a little pepper and salt, and grated nutmeg; when the butter is quite hot put a brace of woodcocks into the pan, fry them for seven or eight minutes, and add a tablespoonful of white wine, the strained juice of two lemons, and some raspings of crusts of bread; let the woodcocks remain in the pan till the sauce has boiled up once, then put the birds on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them and serve at once. Woodcocks, Perigueux. Truss some woodcocks, put them in a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon on top, pour in one pint of mirepoix and one-half pint of Madeira, and cook over a slow fire. Boil some perigueux sauce together with the extract of woodcocks till reduced. When done, drain the birds, put them on a hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and serve. Roasted Woodcocks. Truss the required quantity of woodcocks without drawing them, fastening the legs close to the body with an iron skewer. Toast as many slices of bread as there are woodcocks. Roast the woodcocks in a good oven. Lay a slice of toast in a drippingpan under each bird to catch the trail, and let them roast for thirty minutes. They should be rather underdone. While they are roasting baste them with butter. When sufficiently cooked lav the pieces of toast on a hot dish and put one of the birds on each, pour a little beef gravy in the dish, and serve some more in a sauce tureen. Garnish the dish with thin slices of lemon and waterci GAME. 383 Salmi of Woodcock. Split three woodcocks lengthwise down the back, then divide them into joints, and lay them aside on a dish. Bruise the livers and trails of the birds, lay them on the dish with the birds, strew two tablespoonfuls of finelv-minced lemon peel over, and dust with salt, white pepper, a little cayenne, grated nutmeg, and two teaspoon- fuls of French mustard; moisten with a wineglassful of white wine and the strained juice of four lemons. Put the dish in the oven, and turn the contents about occasion- ally so that they may be well seasoned. When very hot take the dish (which should be of silver) out of the oven, pour a few drops of olive oil over the salmis, stir it about a little, and serve while very hot. Broiled Woodhens. Draw the birds, and truss them with their legs tucked into the body ; singe, and split them into halves lengthwise, beat each piece lightly, season and brush them over with clarified butter, and coat them with breadcrumbs. Grease a gridiron, heat it, put the pieces of birds on it, and broil over a clear but moderate fire; turn to brown bo'di sides. When done arrange them on a hot dish, garnish them with parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of cold tartar sauce. Woodhens, Russian Style. Singe and truss the birds as for roasting, season with salt and pepper, put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them over a moderate fire till nicely browned. Pour a small quantity of cream over the birds, and finish cooking them, basting frequently with it. When cooked, drain the birds, and arrange them on a dish that will bear the heat of the oven. Mix about one breakfast cupiul of bechamel sauce with the cooking sauce of the birds, and boil it till reduced to a thick consist- ency. Pour the sauce over the birds, cover them thicklv with breadcrumbs and place the dish in the oven. When the breadcrumbs are browned, remove from the oven, garnish witli watercress and slices of lemon, and serve. Cold Dishes, Tenderloin of Beef in Aspic. Trim well a small tenderloin of beef and make a deep incision down the thin side. Chop fine some lean veal, passing it through a fine hair-sieve, returning it to the mortar, and mix with an equal quantity of chopped beef suet and about a third that amount of panada; pound well together and season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, bind it together with beaten eggs, and mix in some truffles, beef tongue and whites of hard-boiled eggs, all cut into small slices. Stuff the tenderloin with the forcemeat; cover it first with slices of celery, then with cooked ham, and lastly with thin slices of fat bacon, and tie up. Place the beef in a braisingpan with two calves' feet and some stock, and stew the meat two or three hours and until tender over a slow fire. When cooked, take the beef out of the liquor and leave it until quite cold. Strain the liquor through a fine hair-sieve into a basin and leave it until it is set; strain off all fat, and rub it over with a cloth clipped in hot water to remove all traces of grease; clarify the liquor and pass through a silk sieve. Pour a small quantity of the liquor into a mould which will hold the tenderloin, and place on ice until thor- oughly set. Trim it at both ends, and cut some small pieces of hard-boiled tongue and truffles, which arrange in tasteful designs on the set jelly; pour in enough of the jelly stock to cover them, and allow it to become quite firm; then lay the tenderloin on the jelly, the top turned downward, and pour in the balance of the clarified liquor. When ready for serving, dip the mould into tepid water to loosen the jelly at the sides, wipe, and turn the contents onto a dish, garnishing to taste, and serve. Beef Tongue in Aspic Jelly. Trim off the roots of a skinned cold boiled tongue, cither fresh or salted. Pack a half-gallon mould in ice, pour in a little wanned aspic jelly to cover the bottom to about one inch in depth, let it set, garnish with beet-root cut in various shapes, pour over a little more aspic to set them, place the tongue upside down on top, pour over one teacupful more of the jelly to fix the tongue in its place, then fill up the mould with jelly, and let it remain till set and quite firm. Turn it out onto a dish, garnish with parsley and pickles, and serve. Tickled beet-root should be used if possible. Aspic of Crayfish with Salad. Inerust a plain border mould in ice, and have prepared sufficient warm aspic jelly to fill it. Cut some truffles in halves and dip them in the jelly, also an equal number 384 COLD DISHES. 385 of crayfish tails, and as each one is dipped stick them round the interior of the mould alternately. Chop up the meat from the claws and stir it into the jelly, pouring it immediately into the border mould. When cold, turn the border out onto a dish, after having dipped the mould for an instant in hot water. Fill the center of the border with shredded lettuce mixed with a thick mayonnaise, and pile this up so that the crayfish tails may be arranged around and also cover it in rows. The dish may be garnished with coarsely-chopped aspic and a few pieces placed on the top. Chicken Cutlets in Aspic. Cut off the fillets from two chickens, contise the minions or small fillets with truffles; put them all into a sautepan with a little butter, cover with paper, place a tin with a weight on the top of them to keep it flat, set the pan in the oven and cook- without allowing them to take color. Remove to cool thoroughly, cut each large fillet first crosswise in halves and then lengthwise, and trim them in the shape of cutlets. Put into a saucepan one breakfast cupful of bechamel sauce to warm. and dissolve in it one teacupful of aspic jelly and a little chicken glaze; then add two tablespoonfuls of cream, mix well together, pour the mixture into a sieve over a basin packed in ice, stir it well until it thickens and mask all the cutlets with it before it is quite cold. Decorate the cutlets with various designs stamped out in cooked truffles and tongue, and trim the minion fillets. Pour a little of the jelly at the bottom of a mould packed in ice, arrange the minion fillets on it, cover over with a little more of the jelly, then place the cutlet-shaped pieces round the sides of the mould with the plain side inwards, and let them set; fill the mould up with the remainder of the jelly. Turn the jelly out on a dish and serve with a garnish of pieces of colored aspic intermixed with finely-chopped lettuce leaves. Chicken Fillets with Aspic felly. Take: six good-sized chicken fillets, cut off the minion fillets and the thin skin ot the larger ones, form these into equal shapes and put them into a sautepan with a little butter, giving them a slightly curved inclination when in the pan, pour over a little more butter, cover with paper, and cook them until quite done. Take the minion fillets, trim and contise them with a few small pieces of cooked beef tongue; put them into a sautepan with a little butter to cook, giving them a curved shape in the pan. In the meantime put a circular rice socle on a dish, mask it with Montpelier butter, and again on its center place a small socle two inches in diameter and three and a half inches in height, and mask this again with more Montpelier butter. Take the fillets out of the pan when done, place them on a strainer to drain, and put them when they are perfectly cold into hot chicken chaudfroid sauce, and then when the\ arc cold put them on a dish on the larger rice socle, leaning against the smaller one. 386 COLD DISHES. with a truffle cut a quarter of an inch thick and of the size of the end of the fillets placed between them. Garnish the top of the socle with chopped aspic jcllv, and serve. Game in Aspic Jellv. Put into a saucepan two pounds of knuckle of veal, one lean slice of ham, a sprig of thyme, a couple of sprigs of parslev, half a dozen white peppercorns, one teaspoonful of salt and one shallot chopped up fine; pour over three pints of cold water, put the saucepan over the fire and simmer until the liquor is reduced to one pint, then strain it through a sieve and let it stand all night; next day remove all the fat. Put one ounce of isinglass into a basin, pour over it half a pint of cold water and let it soak three hours; then pour over it nearly one quart of boiling water, stirring it quickly until it is quite dissolved. Add the veal gravy which should be a stiff jelly, and when this also is dissolved, add a tablespoonful of sugar, two table- spoonfuls each of lemon juice and red currant jelly dissolved in a little cold water and strained through muslin. Keep stirring until all of these are thoroughly mixed, then strain through a jelly bag without squeezing or shaking. Have ready some hard- boiled eggs cut in slices, and some slices of cold roasted game sprinkled with a little salt. Wet the inside of a mould with cold water, pour in a thin layer of jellv, and when it stiffens, lay over it rings or slices of the egg overlapping one another like a chain, then pour in more jellv. When stiff enough, lay over slices of meat, then more jelly, and so on until the mould is quite full. Let it stand all night, and serve next da\\ Goose in Aspic Jelly. Cut up three calves' feet, put them in a saucepan with two quarts of water and boil until the flesh leaves the bones. Singe, draw and clean a goose, put it into a saucepan, strain the liquor of the feet over it, put in two or three small onions, two bay leaves, a small bunch of thyme, basil and tarragon, a teaspoonful of bruised allspice, three or four cloves and half a lemon. Pour in more water to bring the liquor nearly to the height of the goose, put the lid on the stewpan and place it over the fire until the liquor boils; then move it to the side and simmer until the goose is tender. When cooked, take the goose out of the saucepan, cut the meat off in slices, put the bones back into the liquor and boil for twenty minutes longer. Dust a small quantity of cayenne pepper into the liquor, give it a sharp flavor by adding lemon juice or vine- gar, strain through a jellv bag until clear and skim off all the fat. Pour a thin layer of the jellv into a rather shallow mould, leave it to .set, then arrange on it pieces oi tot cut in various shapes, the whites and yolks of hard-boiled eggs, sliced sep- arately, and a few green pickles. Pour carefully over these another thin layer ot the jellv and leave it until firm. Arrange the slices of goose on top of the jellv. then pour in carefully the remainder. Pack the mould in ice or stand it in a cool COLD DISHES. 387 place until the contents are quite firm. Before serving, dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it, turn the jelly out onto a dish, and garnish with sprigs of parsley. Goose's Fat Liver in Aspic. Take the required number of fat livers and sprinkle over a little cayenne and salt and roll them into balls, mask them in bechamel sauce mixed in a little warmed aspic and decorate with slices of cooked black truffles cut in various ornamental designs. Put as many small moulds as there are balls of fat livers on ice, pour in a little warmed aspic jelly, let it set firm, put in the fat livers carefully so as not to dis- turb the decorations, fill up the moulds with more of the warmed aspic jelly, and let them set. Chop up fine a few lettuce leaves, mix them with oil and a slight sea soning of salt and pepper, put a layer of this on a dish, turn the contents of the moulds onto it, and serve with a garnish of shapes of colored aspic jelly put round the base of them. Cold Boiled Ham with Aspic Jelly. Choose a freshly smoked ham, trim off the end of the knuckle-bone, and after having soaked it for a few hours, boil it for three and a half hours, then take the kettle off the fire and let the ham remain for three-quarters of an hour in its liquor. Then remove, drain it, cut the thigh-bone short, wrap it tightly in a cloth, and let it cool. When ready to serve, remove the cloth, pel off the rind, excepting at the knuckle-end, trim it neatly, glaze, fix a ruffle on the knuckle-bone, place a white paper on a dish, set the ham on it and garnish the base with chopped aspic jelly and truffles. Lamb Cutlets in Aspic Jelly. Line the bottom of a stewpan with slices of bacon, onions and sliced carrots; trim a few cutlets, place them in the stewpan with a lew cloves and peppercorns, half a blade of mace and two or three sprigs of parsley. Moisten with one wineglassful of sherry and sufficient clear stock to cover them, and leaving the lid on, simmer at the side of the fire. When tender leave the cutlets in their cooking liquor until they are half cold, then drain, place them between two plates and put a weight on the top. When quite cold trim the cutlets neatly, pour a layer of liquid aspic jelly into a vessel, and when it is set lav the cutlets upon it and cover with another layer of jelly, placing the pan on the ice to cool. After the jelly is quite cold and firm procure a tin cutter the shape of a cutlet and stain]) the cutlets out with it, dipping it continu- ally in hot water. Boil until cooked some young green peas, then drain off the water, put a little jelly in with them and toss over the fire for a minute or two until well covered with it. Place a circle of chopped jelly on a dish, arrange the cutlets on it and pour the peas into the center. Garnish round the cutlets with croutons of aspic jelly, and serve. 388 COLD DISHES. Aspic of Lobster. Cut some broiled lobster tails in slices, put them in a basin, dust with salt and pepper and squeeze in a little lemon juice. Put a thin layer of aspic jelly in a plain cylinder mould, garnish it with some hard-boiled eggs and lobster spawn and allow to set, then pour in another layer of aspic jelly one-fourth inch thick, spread a layer of montpellier butter one-fourth inch thick on a baking-sheet and on another baking- sheet spread another layer of lobster butter one-fourth inch thick and stand them both on ice. Cut both butters when quite firm with a round tin cutter to the size of the lobster slices. Arrange alternately in a circle the lobster slices and montpellier butter in the cylinder mould, pour in sufficient aspic to reach one-fourth of an inch above them and leave till set; then arrange a circle of lobster slices and lobster but- ter, dressing them the reverse to the first circle, pour in more aspic jelly, and when set continue the alternate circles of butter and lobster slices. When the mould is full cover it with a baking-sheet, pack it in ice and allow it to stand for two hours or more. Prepare a rice socle on a dish, mask it with lobster butter, turn the aspic out of the mould onto it, garnish with chopped jelly and croutons of jelly, and serve. Aspic of Oysters. Put three or four dozen large oysters into a stewpan with sufficient white wine or sherry to cover them and let cook gently until firm. Drain, trim, put them in a basin and season with a little salt and the juice of a lemon squeezed over. Set a mould in a box or tin of powdered ice and pour in a thin layer of warmed jelly. Let this set and then lay oysters symmetrically over it to within one-fourth inch of the edge all round. Pour over sufficient aspic to cover these and allow it to set and then repeat the laver of oysters until the mould is quite full, taking care that the aspic shall cover the last laver of oysters without overflowing. Allow this to stand for an hour in the ice and then dip the mould into hot water, removing quickly, and then turn out onto a cold dish. Garnish round with chopped aspic jelly or ornament with croutons of aspic in two or three colors of brown, red and yellow. Serve with a rich mayonnaise sauce. Aspic of Partridges. Cut the fillets off the breast of a couple of partridges, season each fillet with salt and pepper, lav them in a buttered bakingdish, cover them with a sheet of but- tered paper, and bake them. When the fillets arc cooked put them between two plates with a weight on top and leave until cold. Roast the remainder of the birds, cut off all the flesh, chop it up, put it in a mortar with an equal quantity of chopped lean veal and the same each of butter and breadcrumbs that have been moistened with stock, and squeezed almost dry. Pound the mixture until quite smooth, then mix with it a small quantity of powdered sweet herbs, the white of one egg and yolks COLD DISHES. 389 of two, and a small quantity of game stock. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Butter a plain mould, turn the mixture into it, and steam for half an hour. Turn the forcemeat out of the mould and leave it until cold; then cut it into slices, and then the fillets into rounds of one size and thickness. Slice some cooked truffles, and some hard-boiled white of egg. Pour a thin layer of aspic liquid jcllv into a plain mould, and leave it until it begins to set ; then arrange tastefully over it some of the above ingredients, pour in another laver of the jellv, then another layer of the meat, etc., and jelly again alternately until the mould is full. Place the mould in the ice-box or other cool place. When the jellv is firm turn the contents of the mould onto a dish, garnished with sprigs of well washed parsley, chopped aspic, and halves of hard-boiled eggs, and serve. Pigeons in Aspic Jelly. Wash and truss twelve pigeons, put them in a large saucepan with four pounds of the shank of veal, one onion that has been fried, one stick of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, five or six cloves, two dozen peppercorns, and four and one-half quarts of water. Bring to a boil, and cook over a slow fire for three hours, adding at the end of the first hour two tablcspoonfuls of salt. When ready, take the pigeons out carefully so as not to break them, and remove the strings. Place the pan over a quick fire and boil rapidly for forty minutes; then strain the liquor through a fine hair-sieve, adding more seasoning if necessary. The liquor should be reduced to two and one-half quarts during boiling. Have two large moulds that will hold six pigeons each, pour a little liquor into each, and set them on ice to harden. Ar- range the birds on the set jellv, cover them with the liquor, which must be cooled but not hardened, and set the moulds in the ice-box for twelve hours. When ready to serve, dip the moulds in tepid water, wipe them, and turn the contents on a cold dish. Garnish round the dish with chopped jellv slices of pickled beet-root, and some nicely picked sprays of parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of Tartar sauce. Pike With Aspic Jelly. Thoroughly clean a pike, stuff it with some rather stiff fish forcemeat, sew it up, wrap it in a cloth and boil it in court bouillon and white wine. When cooked, leave the fish in its cooking liquor till cold, then take it out, remove the cloth, put it belly downwards on the drainer of the fish-kettle and leave it for some time to make sure of its being thoroughly drained. Trim the skin off the thickest part of its body, cut the flesh into slices, which put back again in shape, then glaze the fish with aspic jelly. Put the pike on an oval dish, propping it up on both sides with pieces of bread; surround it first with aspic jellv, then with hard-boiled eggs and small crou- tons of aspic jelly, arranged alternately. Garnish four attelctte skewers, each with one truffle and one quenelle and one with a truffle and two crayfish, one of which 390 COLD DISHES. should be smaller than the other and placed next the truffle. Stick the crayfish skewer in the middle of the pike's back and place the others two on each side. The dish containing the fish should be placed on an ornamented stand. Prawns in Aspic. Place in the bottom of a mould packed in ice, a little slightly warmed aspic jelly, decorate it with a little lobster coral, chopped white of hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a sieve and cover this over with some more of the jelly and prawns and fill up the mould with the jellv. When it has become firmlv set, turn out onto a dish, garnish with wedge-shaped croutons of aspic jelly and small quantities of lettuce finely-chopped, surmounted by prawns in their shells. Aspic of Quails, Empress. Select half a dozen prime quails, or as many as may be required, truss and lard them as for roasting, place them in a stewpan containing four ounces of lean ham, half a dozen allspice and blade of mace, two or three bay leaves, a small carrot, a chopped onion and a small quantity of thyme and parsley; moisten with one pint of chicken stock and one wineglassful of sherry. Put on a tight-fitting cover and let them simmer gently until thoroughly cooked. When done, remove the stewpan from the stove and allow the quails to remain in the liquor until cold. Then remove and wipe them on a clean cloth ; cut each quail into halves and fill up the interior with foies gras, dip each half into reduced supreme sauce, and just before they com- mence to set, sprinkle over some chopped black truffles and tongue. When set, place them upon a flat dish, allowing plenty of room in between them, pour over a small quantity of liquid aspic jelly, repeating it until the (mails have a thick coating over them; place them upon the ice so as to get them thoroughly set. Just before they are wanted for the table, trim them round carefully with the point of a knife, dish them upon a cone of rice which has been previously prepared, garnish in the center with a garnishing of .cockscombs and small truffles, place round the base croutons of aspic with chopped red aspic in between, and serve. Salmon with Aspic felly, Singe and cut into halves lengthwise two calves' feet, bone them, put them in a saucepan with some water and boil them gently over a slow fire. Pass the Liquor oi the feet through a fine hair-sieve into a basin, skim off the fat and leave it to settle. Boil a thick slice of salmon in some court bouillon and wine, and when cooked leave it until eold in its liquor. Put half of the calves' feet liquor into a saucepan with an equal quantity of the cooking liquor of the salmon, add some chopped vegetables, a few sprigs of parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, one-half tablespoonful of cloves and peppercorns, two teacupfuls of vinegar, one-half teacupful of water and three well- COLD DISHES. i ( )' beaten whites of eggs. Stir the above mixture over the fire until it begins to boil, then move it to the edge of the fire and allow it to simmer until the jellv is clear. Strain the jellv through a jelly-bag into a basin and leave it until cold. Place the slices of salmon in a deep dish, distribute the jelly over it piling it in the center, and keep it in a cold temperature for from twenty-four to thirty hours. Garnish with jellv croutons, hard-boiled eggs cut in halves and yolks, and then serve. Aspic of Fillets of Soles. Fillet the soles, butter a baking-dish, put in the fillets, squeeze a little lemon juice over and season with salt and pepper; cover the fillets with a sheet of buttered paper and bake them for ten minutes in the oven. When cooked press the soles between two plates till cold. Put a layer of plain aspic jelly into a mould and leave till set. Cut the fillets of soles into small equal-sized rounds, and arrange them tastefully with some fillets of anchovies on the set aspic jellv. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley over them and cover with another layer of aspic jelly. Proceed in this manner, putting alternate layers of sole and aspic until the mould is full, then pack it in pounded ice. Turn the aspic out of the mould onto a dish, stick some slices of hard-boiled eggs on it with ravigote butter, and serve. Aspic of Trout. Clean a good-sized fresh trout, draw it by the L, r ills, wipe it inwardly, stuff it with fish forcemeat and truss the head. Place it in a saucepan with sufficient broth to cover it and boil until it is done. Have in readiness a piece of fried bread of an oval shape and the length of the fish and place it on a dish of the same shape. Allow the trout to get cold, draining it on a sieve and wipe it well with a cloth; cover over the bread with paper, put the fish on the top, supporting it with butter, glaze it with hit set aspic jelly, surround it with chopped jellv, and decorate the c(.\li and leave till cold. Turn a border of aspic jelly onto a dish and fill the center with alternate layers of mayonnaise and the slices of salmon, finishing with the mayonnaise, and serve. COLD DISHES. 405 Mayonnaise of Soles. Place the soles to cook in boiling salted-water with a little lemon-juice added. When tender, drain the soles, lift the fillets carefully off the bones and place them between two dishes and press them together till cold. Then cut the fillets into as many cutlets as possible. Wash and bone some anchovies and cut them into small strips. Wash and remove the outer leaves of a large lettuce, cut the heart and re- maining leaves into fine shreds, pile them on a dish and pour a quantity of nice mayonnaise sauce over them ; over this, arrange a circle of the fillets of soles, next a circle of the anchovies and then a circle of stoned olives. Fill up the space in the center with finely-minced hard-boiled eggs, capers and anchovies, and serve. Trout with Mayonnaise. Cut off the heads and thin tail parts from half a dozen or so medium -sized trout, clean them inwardly through the gills, also wiping the insides and taking care not to remove the slime from the skin. Have in readiness a saucepan with sufficient court-bouillon mixed with a little claret to cover the fish, plunge them in when the liquor is boiling, cover over the pan, remove it to the side of the fire and allow the fish to cool in the liquor. Take them out, drain, wipe well, place them on the ice for thirty minutes or so and glaze with half-set aspic jelly. Fill an ornamental border mould with aspic jelly, turn it out onto a dish when set, place a small quantity of chopped jelly in the center and serve with mayonnaise sauce in a sauceboat. Mayonnaise of Turbot. Remove the skin and bones from two or three pounds of cold boiled turbot; cut up the meat into shapes such as hearts or rounds, place them in a basin with sufficient oil and vinegar to moisten, sprinkle over pepper and salt, and add a flavoring of chopped shallots ami tarragon leaves. Allow the pieces of fish to soak in this for an hour or so, then remove them, arrange them in a circle on a dish, garnish with small fillets of anchovies and gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, beet-root in slices, capers, tarragon leaves and pieces of chopped meat jelly. Pour some mayonnaise sauce in the center of the dish, and serve. Mayonnaise Turkey with Aspic felly. Cut the breast of a cooked turkey into slices, then cut them up again into shapes all alike. Make a quantity of mayonnaise sauce with lemon juice, and mix with it nearly its quantity of just melted aspic jelly. Coat the pieces of turkey with the mayonnaise jelly, place them on a dish, and stand the dish on the ice. Chop fine a boiled beet-root and some parsley. Take the slices of turkey on a fork, and when the jelly has firmly set, dip the upper side lightly into chopped parsley, and then into 4 o6 COLD DISHES. the beet-root. Arrange them on a dish, the parsley side upwards, against a pile of shred lettuces, garnish with small sprays of watercress and chopped aspic, and serve. Pickled Beef Palates. Wash four palates, put them in a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs, three blades of mace, two or three cloves, and one quart of water, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Boil the palates till quite tender (they will take about five hours), then drain, and remove their skins, keeping them covered until cold. Put one and one-half pints of vinegar and an equal quantity of white wine into a saucepan with the mace that was previously boiled with the palates, four cloves, and a few pepper- corns, and boil for ten minutes; then remove from the fire and leave until cold. Put the palates in an earthenware jar with two bay leaves, five or six peppercorns, and a blade of mace, then pour the pickle over them. Tie paper over the top of the jar, and keep it for use in a store cupboard. Pickled Salmon. Boil a salmon, and when cooked take it carefully out of the liquor, and leave it until cold, reserving some of the cooking-stock. Remove the bones from the salmon and put it in a deep dish. Mix with the reserved liquor an equal quantitv of vinegar, four bav leaves, one tablespoonful each of allspice and black pepper, and a small quantity of salt ; pour it over the fish. Keep the salmon in a cool place, and on the following day it will be ready for use. Pickled Salmon, Turkish Style. Procure six pounds of salmon, and cut it into slices ; wash, dry them on a cloth rub them over with salt, and fry them in olive oil until nicclv browned on both sides Pour three pints of vinegar into a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls each of pow tiered sugar and saffron-water, and stir them over the fire until on the point of boiling Cover the bottom of a jar with bay leaves and myrtle leaves, then put in the slices o fish, placing between each layer pieces of garlic, skinned pistachios, peppercorns, mixed spices, and bay and myrtle leaves, cover the top slices with bav leaves and myrtle leaves, and pour over the boiling vinegar. Put a plate over the jar with a weight on the top to press the contents down, and leave them for three or four days. At the end of that time the pickle will be ready for use ; it may be preserved for a considerable length of time. Pickled Tongue. Wash the tongue well, place it on a dish or pan, with plenty of salt water over it, and turn it over every day for four or five days, so that every part of it may be evenly COLD DISHES. 407 salted. After the fourth or fifth day, mix tog-ether two ounces of salt, one-half ounce of saltpeter, and one ounce of brown sugar, and rub the mixture well into the tongue. Turn it over every day for a fortnight, and it is then ready for use. Potted Beef. Place in a jar some lean beef with a little water, cover and place in a deep stew- pan full of bo i ring water, and simmer gently for five hours; take out the beef, mince it very fine and pound in a mortar with a little pepper, salt and mace, then add six ounces or so of butter. Fill some small pots with this, and pour clarified butter over the top to keep the air out; tie down with paper and keep in a cool place. Potted Beef Tongue. Put a pickled tongue into a saucepan of water and boil it for three hours or until tender; plunge it into cold water for a few minutes, take out and skin it. Chop it up small and pound it in a mortar to a paste. Put two breakfast cupfuls of butter into a saucepan to melt, add one teaspoonful of mixed ground spices, having hall' mace, and the remainder nutmeg, cloves, and cayenne in equal proportions to the tongue, and a little salt if required, and lastly the clear part of the melted butter. Pound and mix thoroughly, press the mixture into jars, pour over more melted butter, cover the jars and keep them in a dry place till wanted. Potted Chicken. Take a fowl, pluck and draw, skin, chop, and put it into a stockpot with one quart of water and a ham bone, and stew gently for six hours. Take it out, cut off all the meat, chop it fine or pass it through a mincing machine, and pound in a mortar, adding a little of the liquor to moisten. Pack it tightly in small pots or jars, cover with clarified butter, and place one side until wanted. Potted Cravtish. Remove all the meat from five or six dozen boiled cravfish, put it into a mortar and pound it well with two ounces of butter and a seasoning of ground mace, pepper and salt. When all these are pounded to a smooth paste stuff it into jars, cover over with warm butter, tie the jars over with bladder to prevent the air from getting into it, and it will then be ready for use. Potted Eels. After cleaning the eels cut them into three-inch lengths; bone and season well with salt, black pepper and a small quantity of mace; pack them closely in jars and leave for a few hours; then cover them with a plain water-paste and bake in a mod- 4 o8 COLD DISHES. erate oven. The eels will be cooked in about an hour; take them out of the oven and leave until cold; then take off the paste and pour a little clarified butter over them. Potted Fish. Take some cold cooked fish, remove the skin and bones and chop it fine; peel some freshly-boiled shrimps, chop and mix them with the fish. Put all into a mortar and pound until smooth. Work in with the paste an equal quantity of fresh butter and season to taste with grated nutmeg, mace, salt and a small quantity of cayenne. Pass the mixture through a fine hair-sieve, pack it into small moulds, leave about a quarter of an inch at the top of each, and fill up with clarified butter. Keep the moulds in a cool larder. Turn the fish out of the moulds on a dish with a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve. Potted Game. Remove the skin from some remains of cold, cooked game, chop the meat, put it in a mortar and pound until quite smooth. Mix with it about a third of its bulk of fresh butter and season to taste with pounded mace, pepper, salt and a small quantity of cayenne. When quite smooth, turn the mixture into small jars, cover and tie down. Potted Goose. Singe and draw a goose, and remove the bones. To fill a potting pan seven inches in diameter the goose should weigh about four pounds when cleaned and with- out the giblets. Lard the breast with strips of fat bacon and sprinkle over with a little salt and pepper. Remove the sinews from the thighs, cut off the flesh, add to it eight ounces of fillet of veal and one pound of fat bacon, chop them all up and pound in a mortar together with one ounce of spiced salt. Put a layer of this mixture at the bottom of the pan. Spread out the goose with the skin part downwards, dust it over with a little more spiced salt, put another layer of the veal mixture in the in- side of it, roll it around and put it in the pan ; cover over with more of the veal mixture, put a few slices of bacon on the top, place a bay leaf on this, put the lid on the pan and set it in a large saucepan, pour in water to about two inches in depth, place the saucepan in the oven and cook for three hours. When the goose is done, which can be ascertained by putting a trussing needle into it, take it out, let cold and cover over in the dish with a layer of the melted fat of the goose. Let it remain for a day, and it will then be ready for use. Potted Goose's Fat Livers. Chop fine one and. a half pounds of goose's fat livers and half a pound of calf's liver, put them in a mortar, pound until quite smooth, and pass them through a fine COLD DISHES. 409 hair-sieve. Tut a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan with the pounded livers, and stir over the fire for a few minutes ; next mix in two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, a few drops of rosewater, salt to taste, a small quantity of cayenne and stir the mixture over the fire for five minutes longer; then put in a few chopped truffles and one teaspoonful of brandv. Let the mixture stew gently at the side of the fire until very thick, then pack it in small jars, leaving about a third of an inch clear space at the top. When cold, fill the jars up with clarified butter, tie them over with parchment, and keep in a dry place. Potted Ham. Trim all the meat from the remains of a boiled ham, chop it verv fine, being careful to remove all outside pieces and gristle, pound it to a paste, measure it, and to each pint, mix in one teaspoonful of mixed mustard and a small pinch of cayenne, and should the ham be very lean, one tablcspoonful of butter. Pack this smoothly in small earthen jars, paste paper over and put on the covers. Stand the jars in a deep baking-dish, surround them nearly to the top with hot water and let them steam slowly for two hours. When done, remove the jars from the pan and let them cool with the covers on. When cold, remove the covers, pour into each jar a little melted butter, place fresh covers on and keep them in a cool, drv cupboard until wanted for use. Ham prepared in this way makes delicious sandwiches and will keep for months. Potted Hare. Skin, draw, wasli and bone a hare, keeping the blood to mix in with the force- meat. Cut off the meat from the shoulders, and half that of the legs, remove all skin and sinews and put this flesh into a mortar with twelve pounds of veal without skin or gristle, add one pound of fat bacon, both cut up small ; pound it, and while doing so, add one ounce of spiced salt and the blood. Lard the body with pieces of fat bacon, cut it in halves, dust it over well with about two ounces of spiced salt, put it in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, and fry it for ten minutes. Put a layer of the forcemeat at the bottom of a pottingpan to about one inch in thickness, then put in half of the body, sprinkle it over with another ounce of spiced salt, then more forcemeat and so on, ending with a layer of forcemeat. Put a slice of bacon on top, a bayleaf on that, cover the pan, put it in a saucepan two inches deep with water, place the saucepan over the fire and cook for three hours or until done, which may be ascertained by piercing the flesh with a very clean trussing-needle. When done, let it get cold, cover with melted fat, and it is ready for use. It should not be used within a day or so of making, and if kept for a time, pork should be used instead of the veal, and in the same proportion. 4 io COLD DISHES. Potted Larks. Carefully pick, singe and draw the required number of larks, dry them, sprinkle plentifully inside and out with pepper, salt and pounded mace, place them in stone jars with a piece of butter, tic down and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked, take the larks out of the gravy, put them into potting jars, pour clarified butter over, cover them with stout paper, tie them down tightly and keep them in a dry closet until required for use. Potted Liver. Put the required amount of any kind of liver with a little highly seasoned stock into a stewpan and braise it. When done and quite tender, cut it up very fine and put it into a mortar and pound to a paste, adding enough of the stock to moisten. Melt, strain and add to the paste one-fourth pound of butter, season with salt, pepper, ground allspice and mace, and pass the whole through a fine hair-sieve ; then place it in jars, cover with melted butter, and stand the jars in a cool place until wanted. Poultry livers may be treated in the same manner ; if truffles or mushrooms are added they are very good imitations of foies gras. Potted Lobster. Procure a large cooked lobster or two small ones, pick out all the meat and place it with the spawn in the mortar, pound it to a paste, then mix with it one-fourth pound of fresh butter, a little pounded mace and cloves, pepper, salt and grated nut- meg. When thoroughly mixed fill some jars with the preparation, press it down tightly, leaving about one-fourth inch space at the top, and fill it up with clarified butter. When quite cold tie the jars over with white paper, and keep them in a drv closet until required for use. Potted Mackerel. Clean the mackerel well, dry it, season to taste with pepper and salt, place it in a baking-dish with mixed spice, a couple of bay leaves and a little butter ; bake it in the oven, and when sufficiently done take it out and allow it to cool, Then bone and lav the meat in pots, and pour over enough melted butter to cover. Potted Mushrooms. Large button mushrooms without any brown color inside them should be used, and about two quarts will be enough. Peel and remove the fur from the larger oik-. put them all into a saucepan with one-half dram of powdered mace, two drams of white pepper and eight powdered cloves; place the pan over the fire and shake and toss it until the liquor from the mushrooms has all dried up. Then add two ounces COLD DISHES. 411 of butter and cook until the mushrooms arc well done; drain off the butter and leave until quite cold. Pack the mushrooms closely in an earthenware pot, pour over some warmed butter, cover with white paper, over this pour clarified beef suet to exclude the air, and set away in a cool place until wanted. Potted Mutton. Chop up some cold cooked mutton, remove all the skin and sinew, and pound it in a mortar with half its bulk of cooked bacon. Season with allspice, salt and pepper to taste, place it in a jar in a saucepan of water and boil till the mass is warmed quite through. Take out the jar, stir frequently until the meat is nearly cold, squeeze it into small pots, let it remain for a day, then cover with clarified butter or hot mutton suet so as to exclude the air. Potted Partridges. Mix together the following spices: one teaspoonful of ground cloves, one-half teaspoonful each of ground mace, allspice and white pepper, one-half tablcspoonful of salt, and a small quantity each of nutmeg and cayenne pepper. Prepare the 'part- ridges as for roasting, season them both inside and out with the spices, and truss them. Put a thick layer of vine leaves at the bottom of a stewpan, put the birds in breasts downwards, and cover them with clarified butter; cover and cook over a slow fire. When cooked take them out and drain well. Clarify their cooking butter and let it get cold, then take the solid butter that is free from the gravy and melt it again. Put the birds in jars, pour the warmed butter over them, ami when it has cooled again tie parchment over the jars. Should it be required to keep them longer than a week pour melted paraffin wax over them. Potted Pheasant. Pluck and draw the pheasant, wipe it clean w ith a damp cloth, singe it, and season the inside with pepper, salt, cloves, beaten mace and grated nutmeg. Break the breastbones and flatten them down. Put the bird in an earthen bowl with a large lump of butter, and bake it for one hour. When cooled, drain the pheasant, and leave it till cold ; then put it in a large jar, the breast downwards, and pour in clarified butter to one-half inch in thickness. Tie paper over the jar, and keep it in a cool place. Potted Pigeons. Boil the livers and gizzards of some pigeons until tender, drain and chop them fine, make them into a forcemeat with grated ham, breadcrumbs, the yolk of a hard- boiled egg, and a seasoning of herbs. Stuff the pigeons with the forcemeat, put them into a stewpan with an onion, one-half pint of white wine, and the liquor in which the gizzards were stewed, add one ounce of butter that has been kneaded with 4 i2 COLD DISHES. a tablespoonful of flour, a.id cook slowly till tender. When cooked pack the pigeons in suitable pots ; strain their cooking liquor, return it to the saucepan and boil quickly for a few minutes ; then pour a little of it over the birds to level up, and when cold, cover the contents with wanned clarified butter. Potted Pig's Head. Clean a pig's head thoroughly, washing it in strong salt and water ; put it n a saucepan with plenty of water, and boil slowly. When very tender, so that the bones can be easily removed, drain the head, separate all the meat from the bones, and pass the cooking liquor through a fine hair-sieve. When the liquor is quite cold, skim off the fat and pour the liquor into a saucepan, being careful not to disturb the sediment. Cut the meat in medium-sized pieces, put it in with the liquor, and boil for half an hour, seasoning to taste with salt, pepper and a little Jamaica pepper. Pour the meat and liquor into moulds, leave until cold. Then tie stout paper over the tops. It may be kept for six weeks in a cool cupboard. Potted Pork. Cut into nice-sized pieces a couple of pounds of lean pork and line an earthen- ware jar with chopped beef-suet, put the pieces of meat in, with a piece of mace and dust over with salt and pepper; pour in one and a half breakfast cupfuls of water and cover over with chopped suet. Tie a stout piece of paper very tightly over the jar and put it in a moderate oven for three hours, then remove the jar and leave it until the following day. Take the pieces of pork out of the jar, place them in a mortar and pound them to a smooth paste, adding salt and pepper if necessarv, together with any other seasoning that may be liked; press the meat into small jars, leaving about half an inch space at the top of each, which fill up with clarified suet; tie the jars over and place them in dry cupboards until required for use. Potted Rabbit. Draw, skin and clean two or three young rabbits, chop off the hind legs at the thigh, and put them together with all the flesh into a saucepan, packing them in as tightly as possible and sprinkling them with powdered mace and allspice, pepper, salt and cayenne to taste. Place several large lumps of butter on the top, which should be as flat as possible, cover with the lid, put the saucepan in a slow oven and bake gently for two hours and a half. Allow the meat to remain in the pan for two or three days, then put it into pots, cover the tops with hot butter, let this cool and the meat is then ready for use. The livers may also be added if desired ami are an improvement. COLD DISHES. 413 Potted Reed Birds. Take the butter off the top of the potted birds, throw them, one at a time, into a saucepan of boiling water and leave them for half a minute, then remove and dry them thoroughly both inside and out. When all the birds have thus been treated leave them until quite cold; then season them with salt, pepper and powdered mace, pack them closely in jars and pour clarified butter on the top. When potted birds are sent a long way the odor is often so bad as to be unendurable from the rankness of the butter. If prepared as described above they will be as though freshly potted. Potted Salmon. Select a piece of salmon, but do not wash it; wipe it very dry and scale it. Place it on a dish, sprinkle salt over, and rub it in well. Let the fish remain in the salt until the latter has all melted and drained away, the dish being placed in a slightly sloping position so that it may drain off as it dissolves. When ready place the fish in a deep bakingpan, together with a seasoning of bruised mace, cloves, whole peppers, and three or four bav leaves; put plenty of butter over it, cover the pan closely, and bake the salmon. When well done, drain the fish from the liquor, press it into pots, and allow it to become quite cold; then pour into each pot a sufficient quantity of clarified butter to cover. Potted Shrimps. Pick some shrimps from their shells, season them to taste with salt and cayenne, and pack them tightly in pots. Have some butter in a saucepan over the fire, and when it boils, pour it over the shrimps until they are quite covered and the pots nearly filled; allow them to get quite cold, then pour over the top boiling butter and lard mixed so that the air cannot reach the butter first poured in. The shrimps may be pounded and softened with butter, then pressed into a shallow jar, and covered with oiled butter. Potted Tongue. Rub a beef tongue well with one-fourth pound of brown sugar, and one ounce of saltpeter. Leave it for two days; then boil it until it is tender. Drain and skin the tongue, cut it into small pieces, and pound them to a smooth paste in a mortar with one pound of clarified butter. Season to taste with pepper and salt, and add a small quantity of pounded mace. Press the paste into small jars, cover with parchment, and tie them down. Potted Trout. Clean one dozen or so of small trout, wash well, dry on a cloth, sprinkle them over with one ounce of white pepper, half that quantity of powdered cloves, one- fourth ounce of cayenne and a small quantity of mace. Put the trout, backs down- 4 i4 COLD DISHES. ward, into an earthenware jar or pot, pour over two pounds or so of clarified butter, place the jar in a slack oven and bake for about four hours. When done take it out and the fish are ready for use. Potted Turkey. Draw and singe a turkey and bone it. Cut the flesh off the thighs, trim off all the sinews and chop it fine. Chop one pound of fat bacon and one-half pound of lean veal, mix them with the chopped turkey flesh, season with salt and spices and pound the whole in a mortar. Lard the breasts of the turkey with the seasoned strips of fat bacon. Place a layer of the pounded mixture of forcemeat at the bottom of a potting jar. Spread out the turkey, skin downward, dust it over with spices and salt, cover the inside with a la}-er of forcemeat, roll the bird up, place it in the jar, spread the remaining forcemeat over it, put some thin rashers of fat bacon and a bay leaf on top and place the cover on the jar. Stand the jar in a large stewpan, pour in water to about one-third its height, place the stewpan in the oven and cook the turkey for about three hours. When cooked remove the jar from the oven, leave it until cold, then cover the contents with a layer of poultry dripping. The turkey should not be served until two days or more after it has been potted. Potted Turkey Livers. Prepare three or four turkey livers, place them in a stewpan together with some very fat bacon and fry them until they commence to brown; then put in with them one clove of garlic, one bay leaf, four or five cloves and one-half saltspoonful of pepper. Pour in one-half pint of red wine and leave the saucepan over the fire until the liquor boils; then remove it to the side and keep the contents simmering for thirty minutes or more; take the livers out of the stewpan, put them in a mortar with half their quantity of fresh butter and pound to a smooth paste, adding more season- ing if required. Press the pounded liver into small jars, leaving a space about one- third of an inch at the top, which fill up with turkey fat or clarified butter. Cover the jars with paper and tic them down securely with twine. Keep them in a dry store cupboard for further use. Potted Veal. Take a cutlet of fillet of veal weighing nearly a pound, season to taste with pep- percorns, mace and cloves, place it in a saucepan that will only just hold it, fill up the pan with water and bake for three hours. Place it in a mortar and pound it fine, with salt to taste and about two ounces of butter slightly warmed. If it be for im- mediate use, a little of the gravy it was baked in may be used to moisten it in the mor- tar; if it is to be kept for any length of time, do not use anything but butter. When beaten to a fine smooth paste, put it into pots and pour over sufficient butter melted to oil to cover it to a depth of about one-tilth of an inch. COLD DISHES. Potted Venison. 415 Cut some cold cooked venison into thin slices. Put one-half pound of butter into a stewpan with a small quantity of spices, such as cloves, grated nutmeg and white pepper, and place it over the fire. When melted, put in the meat, and for every pound add one tablespoonful of currant jelly and one wineglassful of red wine. Allow the meat to simmer in the butter for twenty minutes, then remove it, mince it fine and pound it in a mortar. When quite smooth, pass the meat through a fine sieve and mix the cooking-butter and gravy with it. Pack it in small jars and press it down tightly, leaving a clear one-fourth inch space at the top. Fill the jars with clarified butter, and when it is cold, tie the jars over tightly and put them away for use. Pressed Chicken. Put a chicken into a saucepan with a very little water and boil until the bones slip out and the gristly parts are quite soft. Take off the skin and pull the meat to pieces, mixing the dark-colored and white meat together. Skim the fat off the liquor and season with a little pepper, salt, lemon-juice and celery salt, and reduce to half a pint, then mix it in with the meat. Butter a mould and decorate the bottom and sides with hard-boiled eggs cut in slices and small fancv-shaped pieces of tongue or ham; pack the meat in tightly, put a weight on the top and let it remain in a cold place until wanted. Turn them out and garnish with parsley, lettuce leaves, celery branches, radishes or beet-roots cut into various shapes. Salmon Montpelier. Cut about eight pounds from the middle of a large salmon, put it into a braising- pan with a few sliced carrots and onions, one-fourth pound of butter, a bunch of thyme, basil, and half a do/en bay leaves, three quarts of stock, two quarts of water, and one-half bottle of chablis. Place the pan over the fire until the liquor begins to boil, then move it to the side and simmer it gently for an hour. Blanch in equal quantities some chives and parsley, place them in a mortar with one or two boned anchovies, and pound them well together with four ounces of butter and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. When quite smooth place the mixture on a plate, and set it on the ice. When the salmon is cooked, leave it in the liquor until cold, then drain it and spread the above mixture over on both sides. Place it on an oval dish, decorate it with lobster spawn, garnish the dish with truffles, parsley, chopped whites fs, and croutons of aspic jelly; fill up the cavity in the body of the salmon with parsley, and serve. Terrine of Chicken Livers. Peel four or five large truffles, cut them into dice and put them in a basin with six ounces of cooked fat bacon also cut into dice and the livers of ten or twelve fat 4' COLD DISHES. chickens; sprinkle salt, spices and powdered sweet herbs over, and one tablespoonful of Madeira wine. Cut half a calf's liver in thin slices, fry it in a little melted bacon fat with a tablespoonful of chopped shallots and the trimmings of the truffles and sprinkle pepper and salt over them. When the slices of liver are well set, pour in one teacupful of Madeira; keep it on the fire for two or three minutes, then take it off. When cold pound the liver. Chop and pound an equal quantity of fat bacon, mix it with the pounded liver, season well with pepper, salt and mixed spices, and pass all through a sieve. Line a terrine at the bottom and all round the sides with thin slices of fat pork, spread over some of the liver forcemeat, fill the dish with the livers, truffles and pork and alternate lavers of the forcemeat; put some thin slices of fat bacon on the top, put on the lid, stand it in a baking-dish and bake it in a moder- ate oven for two hours, basting occasionally with the fat that runs over into the baking-dish underneath. When cooked, take the terrine out, lift off the lid, put a wooden weight on the top, and let it cool. When ready to serve turn the preparation out of the terrine, and cut it up. Clean the terrine, put it on a dish, fill it with the cut up pieces, arranging them to come dome-shaped on top, and place around some croutons of aspic jelly. Terrine of Partridge. Emptv two partridges, bone them, cut them in two lengthwise, put them in a fryingpan with a little bacon fat, and fry them lightly till the flesh is set, then take them out. Cut the half of a calf's liver in slices, frv it quickly in a little bacon fat, with a little chopped onion, a sprinkling of fine herbs, and two or three pieces of raw ham. When cold put the liver in a mortar, pound it, then pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Put half as much pork and bacon as there is liver in the mortar to pound, then mix it with the liver, and season well with mixed spices, salt and pepper. Line a terrine with thin slices of fat bacon, then fill it with the halves of the partridges and the forcemeat, add some sweet herbs and a little Madeira; put a layer of forcemeat on the top. Cover with a flat of paste, put it in the oven, and bake it for two hours, basting it occasionallv. When cooked, take the flat of paste off, put a light weight on the terrine, and let it cool; then take the fat off, and cut the preparation up. Wipe and fix the terrine on a dish, garnish round the base with a folded napkin or an ornamental dish- paper, and serve. Terrine of Veal. Trim a white cushion of veal, lard it with ham and raw truffles, and sprinkle it well with pepper, salt and spices. Chop the trimmings of the veal with an equal quantity of lean fresh pork and mix with them an equal quantity of chopped lush bacon and the trimmings of the truffles. Pound the mixture in a mortar, pass it through a fine hair-sieve into a basin, season it with salt and pepper, ami mix in three or four tablespoonfuls of Madeira. Line a pie-terrine with thin COLD DISHES. 4i7 layers of bacon, place a layer of prepared forcemeat at the bottom of it, then put in the larded cushion of veal and surround and cover it with the forcemeat, building- it on the top in the shape of a dome. Stand the terrine in a baking- dish and place it in a moderate oven. Baste the terrine frequently, and in an hour's time pour a little warm water in the pan and bake it for an hour and a half longer. When cooked, remove the terrine from the oven and leave it for an hour and a half, then place a light weight on the top and leave till cool. Take the top off the terrine, remove the meat, cut it into slices, and place it back again. Stand the terrine on a round dish, garnish it with croutons of aspic jelly, and serve. Cold Beef Tongue. Boil a tongue for three hours; when cooked skin it, trim off the rough parts of the root and truss it in good shape by placing the root against some fixture and run- ning a fork through the thin end into the table or board; when cold finish trimming the tongue; place it on a dish, fix a frilled paper round the roots with skewers, wet it with a little hot jelly and garnish with parsley and chopped aspic. An imitation scal- lop shell may be carved on the tongue, commencing at the thin end and ending with the thick. Glaze it well with light glaze, spread a thick layer of aspic jelly over the tongue, and garnish it on the dish with skewers garnished with jelly and mush- rooms. Cold Calf's Tongue with Macedoinc. Place six pickled tongues in a saucepan of boiling water and boil them until tender. Take them out, remove the skins, put them between two dishes and let them remain with a weight on the top until cold. Round them off at the root end, cut them flat at the sides and divide lengthwise in halves. Glaze with a pastebrush and mask with a thin layer of half-set aspic jelly to give a relief. In the meantime prepare a macedoine with carrots and potatoes formed in the shape of balls, Brussels sprouts, flowerets of cauliflowers, green or asparagus peas and French beans cut in diamond shapes. All of these vegetables must be blanched separately, well-seasoned and put in little piles of symmetrical size in the center of a dish. Arrange the halves of tongue round, with the points upwards, pour around a small quantity of aspic jelly and serve with tartar or ravigote sauce in a sauceboat. Salads Salads. Compound salads will be found described under their particular headings, such as Anchovy, Artichoke, Asparagus, Cress, etc. Other recipes are dealt with in the following list. The simplest form of salad would be made by wiping perfectly dry a few leaves of lettuce, cutting them into broad shreds, and then dressing them as follows : Place the lettuce in a deep salad bowl fitted with a pair of servers, one partaking of the character of a spoon, and the other that of a fork. Supposing the bowl to be about two-thirds full of the lettuce, and having ascertained that it is carefully dried, pour into the spoon four charges of the best lucca oil, and stir this freely into the leaves, stirring vigorously with both servers. Then dust in enough salt to season nicely ; pour into the spoon about one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, fill the spoon up with the best malt vinegar, and stir this in briskly. The salad is then ready to be served. Salad Dressing. (i). Put the cold yolks of two hard-boiled eggs into a basin, mash them until they are quite smooth, add one teaspoonful each of salt and made mustard, one salt- spoonful of sugar, and half that quantity of pepper; mix together well, add by degrees one tablespoonful of cream and vinegar, and, when well incorporated, add one tablespoonful each of salad oil and vinegar, and one dessertspoonful of tarra- gon vinegar. When well mixed it is ready for use. (2.) Put the yolks of two raw eggs into a basin with one teaspoonful of salt and beat them well; then add, a drop at a time, one pint of the best salad-oil. When the oil is well mixed with the eggs, stir in one teaspoonful of made mustard, one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, one tablespoonful of chili vinegar, and three or four tables] >oonfuls of plain vinegar. Peat together until all these ingredients are well incorporated, then add a small quantity each of sugar and cayenne pepper. Turn the mixture into a bottle, and keep it tightly corked until wanted. Gream Salad Dressing. Beat two or three raw eggs well, add one teaspoonful of sugar, one-half salt- spoonful of salt, the same of mustard, three tahlespoonfuls of vinegar and finally one tablespoonful of cream. Put the dish containing these into a basin of boiling water ti8 SALADS. 419 and stir until the mixture becomes as thick as rich cream. The water in the bowl should be kept boiling all the time and it will then only take about five minutes to finish it. Remove the basin and allow it to get cool, when it will be ready for use. Cream Dressing for Cucumber Salad. To make this salad a success have some sour cream. Take five tablespoonfuls of sour cream, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of paprika, one pinch of salt and half a teaspoonful of hashed up chives; mix it well, so that the paprika does not form little balls. When well mixed, add it to the cucumbers, and serve. Anchovy Salad. Fillet some anchovies and shred them lengthwise. Arrange them tastefully upon a small plate and garnish with groups of chopped hard eggs, chopped pars- lev and onions, ornamented with whole capers. Pour salad oil or oil and vinegar over the whole, and serve. Asparagus Salad, German Style. Take sufficient cold boiled asparagus points and place in a basin with one- third of their quantity of crayfish tails. Season with salt and pepper. Pass through a sieve the yolks of half a dozen hard-boiled eggs and beat up with a little oil, vinegar and salt to the consistency of cream. Pour this over the asparagus mix- ture and serve in a salad bowl. Almost any cold shellfish may be used in place of the crayfish if desired. Bacon Salad. Cut some slices of fat bacon into small squares, put them into a fryingpan and fry them until lightly browned. Remove the pan from the fire and mix in one-third vinegar to two-thirds bacon oil. Prepare a salad by chopping up what- ever green meats happen to be at hand, season it and pour the bacon sauce over it; if the pieces of bacon arc not wanted strain the sauce through a strainer. Beaten eggs may be added to the bacon fat if desired. They should be stirred into it while over the fire till the dressing is thick, then allow the mixture to become cool before pouring it over the salad. Beef Salad. Take some lean cold boiled beef (the rump is preferable), remove all the fat and cut into pieces an inch and a half in length as thinly as possible. Put the pieces in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and two cooked and sliced pota- 420 SALADS. toes, a little parsley, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and some sweet oil. Com- pound well and arrange in a salad bowl, garnish with some pickles or beets, and serve. Beet-Root Salad. This may be made with slices of cold beet-root arranged on a dish with ordinary salad dressing poured over them; or the slices of beet-root may be alternated with siles of hard-boiled eggs. Over this latter mixture, pour a dressing consisting of oil and vinegar seasoned with pepper and salt and garnish with a few pickled mushrooms, small onions and horseradish. Bohemian Salad. Wash and dry well some lettuces, cut them into shreds and put them in a salad- bowl with some slices of beet-root on the top. Beat the yolks of two raw eggs with a small quantity of chopped onion, salt and mustard; when well-beaten, add three tablespoonfuls of oil and one tablespoonful of vinegar, a little at a time, beating well. Pour this dressing over the lettuce, and serve at once. Brunswick Salad. Peel and cut a fresh celcryroot into fine shreds and soak it in water for a quarter of an hour. Peel and boil four truffles for three minutes in a little Madeira wine. Rub the inside of a basin with a clove of garlic, put in it the yolks of four or five hard-boiled eggs and mash them to a smooth paste with a spoon; then add one tea- spoonful of mustard, one teacupful of oil and a small quantity of vinegar. Drain the celery roots and truffles and mix them with the eggs. Season the salad, turn it into a salad-bowl, sprinkle over a small quantity of chopped tarragon and cloves, and serve. Red Cabbage and Celery Salad. Procure a firm, close, red cabbage, trim off all the outside leaves, cut into four pieces, washing in plenty of water, and drain ; break the leaves apart, remove the stalks and ribs, and cut the rest into shreds. The heart and white sticks of two heads of celery should be cut into pieces, and mixed with the cabbage in a salad- bowl, garnish the salad with young green tops of celery, and serve with a dressing poured over it, which is prepared as follows : Beat one c^ and mix in gradually a tablespoonful of salad oil, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a half teaspoonful of cas- ter sugar and dry mustard. Season with a little salt. White Cabbage Salad. Procure a tender white cabbage, cut out the stalks and ribs, and place a number of the thinnest leaves together and cut them into narrow strips. Cut two thin rushers SALADS. 421 of bacon into small squares, place them in a fryingpan and fry them until they com- mence to color ; move the pan off the fire, pour in a cupful each of vinegar and water, seasoning with salt and pepper and again place the pan over the fire, stirring its contents until quite hot. Throw the cabbage lightly into a salad-bowl, and serve, pouring the prepared dressing over it. Cauliflower Salad. Boil one large cauliflower for half an hour in two quarts of boiling water to which one tablespoonful of salt has been added ; then take it out to drain, and after it is cold divide it into small branches. Arrange these in the center of a dish, and garnish the edge with a strip of pickled beets. Pour cream dressing or a breakfast cupful of mavonnaise dressing over the cauliflower, and arrange a star of the pickled beet in the center. Serve it as quickly as possible after it is prepared. Celery Salad. Pare off the green stalks from two or three heads of celerv, trim the roots and cut them into short shreds; wash them thoroughly in cold water, lift them out with the hands, and drain in a cloth. When well drained place the celerv in a salad-bowl and season with one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper, and one or two salad teaspoonfuls each of oil and vinegar. Mix well, and serve. Celery Salad with Mayonnaise Dressing. Prepare the celerv as for salad, and when it is in the salad-bowl, season with one- half pinch of pepper, one-half pinch of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of Mayonnaise dressing. Stir well just prior to serving. Chicory Salad. Pare off the green leaves from two heads of white endive and cut away the roots; wash thoroughlv, drain well on a napkin, place them in a salad-bowl, season witli salt ami pepper diluted with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and add a tablespoonful and a half of sweet oil. Mix thoroughly together, and serve. Chicken Salad. Cut the flesh of a cold roasted fowl into pieces; take one or two lettuces, trim off the outside leaves, wash the remainder thoroughly and dry on a cloth. Then cut them up or pull them to pieces with the fingers and put them in a salad-bowl with the pieces of fowl. Skin and bone three anchovies, cut them into thin strips and lay them over the pieces of fowl. Peat an cv;^ and mix it with one heaped teaspoon- fnl of dry mustard, and a sufficient quantity of salad oil and vinegar. Season the 422 SALADS. dressing to taste with salt and pepper and sugar. Pour it over the contents of the salad-bowl. The salad should be served immediately after the dressing is poured over it. Chiffonade Salad. This salad consists of all the salads in season. For example, lettuce, romaine, chicory, escarol, tomato, beets and celery cut in long slices. The dressing for this salad is made as follows: Take one hard-boiled egg and mash it as fine as possible with a fork ; then add two pinches of paprika and a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of French mustard, a teaspoonful of hashed chives, a tea- spoonful of hashed estragon, two tablespoonfuls of oil and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Add this to the salad, mix it well together, and serve. Crab Salad. Take the meat from the shells and claws of a dozen small crabs, season with salt and pepper, and add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and a little chopped parsley. Decorate the bowl with lettuce leaves, six stoned olives, twelve capers, and two hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. It is then ready to be served. Crayfish Salad with Aspic. Choose three dozen crayfish and boil them; when done, take out and let cool. Remove the meat from the claws and tails, place it in a basin, add a little seasoning, and cover with oil and vinegar. Remove the flesh from the small claws, also from the trimmings of the tails, mix them into a lettuce and cress salad cut up into shreds, season with salt and add a little mayonnaise sauce to thicken. Take a plain border mould and put ice all round it. Then divide four hard-boiled eggs into halves, dip them on one side only into a little half-set aspic jelly and put them into the mould in an upright position with the points directed to the bottom, cutting away a portion of the sides to the shape of the side of the mould. In the course of a few minutes fill the mould up with aspic jelly and allow it to get cold and set; then about fifteen minutes before it is required, turn it out onto a dish (quite cold). Arrange the salad in the form of a pyramid in the cavity of the border. Take the tails, one at a time, and with the aid of a larding-needle, place them in a circle on the salad. Garnish an attelette skewer with a truffle and put it in the top. Serve a sauceboatful of mayonnaise sauce with this. Cress Salad. Mix together equal proportions of white wine, vinegar and salad oil, season with a small quantity of moist sugar and a little salt, and turn it into a salad-howl. Throw in some sprig9 of watercress, and on these strew lightly the leaves of young nastur- SALADS. 423 tiums, with sufficient garden-cress to fill the bowl. Toss this well, and then turn it out onto a large dish. Arrange a wreath of nasturtium leaves around the edge of the dish, allowing them to overlap each other, then put an inner circle of the flowers, and in that a circle of sliced hard-boiled eggs. Serve before the freshness of the salad has disappeared. Dandelion Salad. Take one quart of white dandelion, pare away the roots and stale leaves and wash thoroughly in two waters; drain on a cloth and place in a salad-bowl. Dilute a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper and one tablespoonful of vinegar, adding one tablespoonful and a half of sweet oil. Mix thoroughly, pour over the salad, and serve. Dandelion Salad, Contoise. Take one quart of white dandelion, pare and wash well using several waters. drain on a cloth, arrange in a salad-bowl and season with salt and pepper. Cut into dice-shaped pieces two ounces of bacon and put in a fryingpan on the fire until they get a good golden color, which will take about five minutes, and add them to the salad. Pour into the pan two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and let it heat for half a minute, then pour it over all, mix well together, and serve. Salad Demi-Devil. Cut in slices a few cooked peeled truffles and potatoes, arrange them alternately in a salad-bowl well brushed with oil, garnish with small cooked onions and stoned olives, pour over a mixture of oil and vinegar or oil and white wine, and serve. The salad should be allowed to soak for at least two hours before it is used. Dumas Salad. Pound together a very small quantity of anchovy and tunny (about one tea- spoonful of each), put the yolk of a hard-boiled c^ in a salad-bowl with one table- spoonful of salad oil and mash it to a smooth paste; then mix in the pounded tunny and anchovy and a little French mustard. Chop fine the white of a hard-boiled c^, a small pickled cucumber, a few stalks of chervil and a little soy. Mix all the ingredients together in the salad-bowl with one wineglassful of wine vinegar, then arrange tastefully over the salad a few slices each of boiled potatoes, turnip-root and beet-root and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir the above mixture with a fork, then serve it. The above salad is from a recipe designed and used by Alex- ander Dumas. Dutch Salad. Skin and bone a herring and cut it into small pieces; wash and bone eight or ten anchovies, and divide them into eight pieces each. Take an equal quantity each of 4 2 4 SALADS. cold fowl and German sausage and cut them into small square pieces. Chop in equal quantities some pickled gherkins and beet-root, and cut in rather large pieces twice the quantity of cold boiled potatoes. Mix all the ingredients except the anchovies to- gether, with one or two chopped hard-boiled eggs and about two tablespoonfuls of chopped capers. Prepare a dressing with two parts of olive oil and one part of tarragon vinegar, and mix with it smoothly a small quantity of French mustard, seasoning it to taste with some white pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad, and serve it. Egg Salad. Boil six eggs hard and leave until cold; then peel and cut into halves length- wise, and dust a small quantity of pepper, salt and cayenne over each half oi and pour over it a few drops of oil and vinegar. Take small quantities and chop to- gether, of chervil, chives and tarragon leaves; place them in the center of the dish, and arrange the halves of egg around this. Wash, drain and chop a few young let- tuce leaves, place them around the eggs, and serve. Eggs and Beet-Root Salad. Take some cooked beet-roots, peel, slice and put in a pan with a few tablespoon- fuls of olive oil and toss them about over a brisk fire until hot. In another pan poach some new-laid eggs and trim them. Pile the slices of beet-root in the center of a hot dish, garnish around with the eggs, dredge them lightly with pepper, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, and serve at once. This makes a very good breakfast dish, and takes but little time to prepare. French Salad. Chop fine a bunch of parsley, two shallots and half a dozen anchovies; lav them in a bowl and mix with them salt and mustard to taste, two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and one gill of vinegar. Stir all well together and then add, two or three at a time, some very thin slices of cold roasted or boiled meat, not more than three or four inches long. Shake the slices well in the dressing as they are put in. Cover the bowl closely and let the salad stand for three hours. Serve garnished with parsley and some slices of fat meat. Game Salad. Take the required quantity and chop separately beet-roots, carrots and whites of hard-boiled eggs. Rub the bottom of a salad-bowl with onion and pour over a little Union juice. Chop and pound some watercresses, mix them with an equal quan- tity of butter and form into small balls; repeat the operation with one tablespoon- tul of chopped carrot and two ounccsot butter. Put some slices of cold cooked game at the bottom of a dish, decorate with the chopped vegetables, including SALADS. 425 supply of lettuce leaves and other vegetables in season, pour over a tartar sauce, sprinkle over the chopped egg, over this put a few slices of beet-root, decorate the edge of the dish with the balls of butter, pour round a mayonnaise dressing, and serve. Green Pea Salad. Shell two breakfast cupfuls of peas, put them in a saucepan with a lump of but- ter the size of an egg and a very little water and boil slowly until tender, stirring con- stantly. When done take them off the fire and leave them until cold. Thoroughly wash and drain a nice lettuce, pull the leaves apart and put them into a salad-bowl. Chop some cold remains of roast lamb or other cold meat, spread it over the top of the lettuce and pour the peas over. Prepare a plain salad-dressing with oil, vinegar, a few chopped tarragon and mint leaves, and season with pepper and salt. Pour the dressing over the salad, toss it lightly, and serve. Salted Herring Salad. Cut off the heads and cut down the backs of some salted herrings, take out the bones carefully, remove the fillets, and cut them in small pieces. Put some cold boiled potatoes cut in dice into a deep dish with one raw apple and a little cold roasted veal, also cut in dice. Mix with the fish some pickled beet-root, salted cu- cumber, and a few gherkins, all finely chopped ; put them in with the other ingredi- ents, sprinkle over salt, mustard, one pinch of chopped chives, and one handful of capers, and pour in some vinegar and oil. Thicken the salad with a teacupful of mayonnaise sauce, dish it in a dome shape, smooth the surface with a knife, and mask it with more of the mayonnaise. Decorate it with gherkins, capers, anchovy fillets, and cherries in vinegar, put a lew lettuce hearts in the center, surround the base with croutons of aspic jelly, and serve Japanese Salad. Mince three or four medium-sized truffles vcrv fine, also two large, cold, boiled potatoes ; put the whole into a basin, and season with one-half pinch each of pepper and salt, and a little grated nutmeg ; pour over one-half wine-glassful of champagne; and allow it to stand for two hours ; add eighteen or twenty whole cooked mussels, one teaspoonful of chopped chives, and the same quantity of chopped parsley. Mix- all well together, put the salad into a bowl, decorating it with six small white lettuce leaves, and six fillets of anchovies, and serve. Jardiniere Salad. Cut into fine strips some beet-root, turnips, carrots and potatoes, mix with them some peas, haricot beans and lentils, put them all together in a saucepan with a 426 SALADS. Lump of butter, cover with water, and boil them until they are cooked, then drain off the water and leave them until cold. Make a dressing with some oil, mayon- naise sauce, one dessertspoonful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of mustard, a small quantity of cayenne and salt. When well mixed, pour the dressing into a salad dish, mix the prepared vegetables lightly in, and serve. Leek Salad. Cut the white part of some young leeks into small equal-sized pieces. Scald a large tomato, remove the skin, leave until cold, and cut into thin slices. Wash a head of lettuce, break off the leaves, and arrange them in a fancy dish ; then put in sliced tomato, and next the leeks. Mix together some oil and vinegar, using most of the former, dust in some pepper and salt, and pour it over the salad. Sprinkle over a few tarragon leaves, garnish with small tomatoes, and serve. Lettuce Salad. Take two fine lettuces, remove the outer green leaves, wash and wipe, place them in a salad-bowl, sprinkle over one tablcspoonful of chopped chives, half a teaspoonful each of chopped chervil and tarragon, and season with one pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful and a half of oil. Mix thoroughly, and serve. Lettuce and Tomato Salad. Take a white head of lettuce, pare off the outer green leaves, core, wash and drain in a wire-basket, then split and cut the leaves into quarters and put them in a bowl. Have tomatoes, cut in thir. slices, and place over the lettuce. Season as fol- lows: Mix one pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper in two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of oil, pour over the salad, and serve. Lobster Salad. (i). Cut the meat of a lobster in long thin strips, then cut these into dice. Place them in an earthenware bowl, and season with four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and a little salt and pepper. Wash well a lettuce and shake in a wire-basket to free it from water. Place two or three leaves together in the form of a shell, and arrange these shells together on a flat dish. Mix one-half of the mayonnaise dressing with the lobster, put a little of this in each cluster of leaves, and pour over a little more of the dressing. Garnish the border of the dish with whole leaves. (2). This salad should be served as soon as it is made. Choose a medium- sized lobster, und quite alive; plunge it head fust into .1 huge pot of boiling water, and boil for about twenty minutes, or until the shell is quite red. Allow the lobster SALADS. 427 to cool until it can be handled, then remove it from the shell, using a can-opener to separate it; save all the coral, green fat, and flesh of the lobster. Throw away the intestine which runs through the flesh of the tail, the membranous sac which lies at the back of the eyes, the " dead men " or soft fins which lie under the small legs close to the body, and the shell, cutting the lobster into square pieces about one inch in size. While the lobster is being prepared boil two eggs hard, remove the shells, and cut them into quarters. Carefully wash and dry two medium-sized heads of lettuce, cut them into quarters and keep them in a cool place. Put into a saucepan four tablespoonfuls each of butter and vinegar, one mustard spoonful of made mustard, one-fourth saltspoonful of pepper, and one saltspoonful of salt, a sprinkling of cayenne and the lobster, and place the saucepan over the fire; arrange the lettuce round the sides of a salad-bowl, stir the lobster until it is hot, pour it into the salad- bowl, garnish with the hard-boiled eggs, and serve at once. The success of this salad depends upon the celerity with which it is made and served. (3). Remove the flesh from two freshly-boiled lobsters, keeping the shells (which should be nicely washed and reserved for further use) as whole as possible. Chop the flesh fine, and mix it with a good mayonnaise salad-dressing. Wash and cut some lettuces into thin shreds, pile them in the center of an oval-shaped salad dish, arrange round it a border of endive, and pour the mayonnaise mixture in the center. Cut some celery into pieces of various lengths, and arrange in fancy shaped groups against the endive. Garnish round all with croutons of aspic jelly. Place the shells of the lobsters on the top lengthwise, head to head, put across their backs some rounds of cucumber overlapping each other, and serve. Lobster Mayonnaise. Take the flesh from some lobsters and cut them to a small size. Have a border mould, and pour into it a layer of slightly melted pale-colored aspic jelly. When the jelly begins to set, place around and over some of the pieces of lobster and a leu- tarragon leaves, filling up with jelly. Put the mould in a cold place, and when the jelly is set turn the mould out onto a dish; fill the center with lettuce cut into shreds and mixed with the remainder of the lobster seasoned with pepper, salt, tarragon, vinegar and oil. Heap the lettuce and lobster high, and cover it with mayonnaise sauce. Garnish the heap of salad and the top of the mould with capers, stoned olives, tarragon, shervil, slices of hard-boiled eggs, slices of truffles, and the coral of the lobster. Macedoine Salad. t a medium-sized carrot and turnip, peel and wash well, and cut them with a vegetable scoop. Put them into separate saucepans of boiling salted water and cook the carrot fifteen minutes and the turnip ten. Drain well, let them thoroughly cool, and place them in a salad-bowl with three tablespoonfuls of cooked peas, the 42 8 SALADS. same quantity of French beans cut into small pieces, one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil and nearly two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Mix ali together well and turn it into a salad-bowl. Decorate the bowl with cooked cauliflower or a few asparagus tops or Brussels sprouts, and send to the table at once. Cold Meat and Potato Salad. Cut one pound of cold meat into thin slices and then again into small squares, and mix with it one pint of chopped cold potatoes. Put a layer of this at the bottom of a salad-bowl, cover with parsley and salad dressing, and continue in this way until all the meat is used up. Place the bowl in a cool place for a couple of hours, and the salad is then ready for use. Mussel Salad. Wash the mussels and boil them until the shells open. When cooked drain them, remove the shells and put them into a hot dish. Melt one-fourth pound of butter, season with pepper, salt, lemon juice and a small quantity of Worcestershire sauce and pour it over the mussels. They should be eaten hot with some thin slices of brown bread and butter. Onion and Tomato Salad. Choose half a dozen firm, ripe tomatoes of medium size, wipe them with a wet towel and cut them into slices about one-fourth inch thick; peel a medium-sized Spanish onion and slice it very thin. Arrange the sliced onion and tomatoes in layers in a salad-bowl and pour over them a plain salad dressing made by mixing together one tcacupful of salad oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful of salt and one-half saltspoonful of pepper. Use the salad as soon as made. Young green onions may be used for this salad. Spanish Onion Salad. Soak some large Spanish onions for a few hours, changing the water several times, for the purpose of reducing their flavor. Slice the onions, put them in a salad bowl with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, about a teacupful of vinegar and one- and one-half teacupfuls of salad oil; season with pepper and salt, toss the'salad about to mix it, then serve with toasted crackers. Oy ster Salad. Clean two heads of celery, having a little of the green part on, and put them into a saucepan with half their bulk of tender white cabbage. 1'our over sufficient boiling salted water to cover and boil for five minutes. Take out. place them on a colander to drain and mince very fine. Put the strained liquor from two do/en oys- SALADS. 429 ters into a saucepan, boil and skim it, add a little vinegar, bruised peppercorns and salt. Put in the oysters and cook slowly for a few minutes until done, take them out and turn them into a basin packed in ice to cool; add a little oil and vinegar to the chopped celery and cabbage, spread some of it over a dish, arrange the oysters on it, putting them close together, cover with the remainder of the mixture, smooth it over with a knife, pour over a little mayonnaise sauce, and serve. Potato Salad. Cut up half a dozen firm cold boiled potatoes into nice slices, and slice up half that quantity of boiled beet-root, half their quantity of boiled Spanish onions and a small amount of pickled cucumber; arrange the slices of vegetables in artistic order on a salad dish, and prepare a sufficient quantity of salad-dressing with tarragon and salad oil, the former predominating, and season to the taste with salt and pepper; pour it over the vegetables, garnish the dish with slices of hard-boiled eggs, strewing a moderate quantity of powdered sweet herbs over the center, and serve. If desired, a small quantity of English mustard can be added to the dressing. Prawn Salad. Remove the skins and heads of the prawns and arrange them on a dish with a handful or so of pickled parsley, dredging over them some salt. Then squeeze the juice of two or three lemons into a basin, beat it together with three tablcspoonfuls of the best salad oil until well mixed, when it may be poured over the prawns and served. Radish Salad. Scrape well four large radishes, cut them into thin slices, and put them into a salad-bowl. Peel and slice a moderate-sized cucumber, and put it in with the rad- ishes Mix in equal quantities salad-oil and vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and pour the mixture over the salad. Sprinkle some chopped capers and herbs over the salad, and serve. Russian Salad. Cut into thin slices the best part of some cold remains of salmon, partridges and chicken, arrange them on a salad dish, and mix with them in moderate quantities some cooked asparagus heads, carrots, turnips and cauliflower, all cut into small pieces, a few capers, shrimps, and a small quantity of caviar. Prepare a sufficient quantity of dressing with oil, mustard, vinegar and a small quantity of cayenne pep- per; one tablespoonful of minced shallots should also be added. Pour the mixture over the above ingredients, and stand the salad on ice until ready to serve. Care- should be taken in making this salad that all the ingredients taste, but that none of them predominate. 430 SALADS. Russian Salad with Caviar. Pack a conical-shaped mould in ice and decorate the interior with anchovy fillets, poached whites of eggs, and gherkins cut in small pieces, and small French beans, all dipped in half-set aspic jelly to make them adhere to the mould. Cover all with a thin layer of the aspic jelly and let it set. Meanwhile prepare a salad of boiled beet- roots, potatoes and carrots (a little of each), as well as a few pickled button mush- rooms and capers, a little salted cucumber, and a few sticks of celery, all except the capers being cut up small; add a few fillets of anchovies or salted herrings, a small piece of any cooked fish, and a few crayfish tails, all cut up into small pieces. Put the whole into a basin, pour over sufficient mayonnaise sauce to make the mixture thick, pack the basin in ice, and allow the contents to cool. Turn the salad into the mould, let it remain in the ice for an hour, turn it out onto a dish, and serve with a garnish of small rolls cut in halves, and the center scooped out and filled with caviar. Salmon Salad. Remove the skin and bones from two salmon steaks that have been broiled; flake the flesh with two forks, put it into a basin, season it with pepper and salt, and moisten with lemon juice or vinegar, and a very little oil, the fish being oily itself. Soak it for an hour or so. Wash a head of lettuce in plenty of water, drain it well, pull the leaves apart, and put them in a salad-bowl ; drain the salmon, put it in with the lettuce, pour over it a mayonnaise dressing, garnish it tastefully with slices of hard boiled cgg>s, olives and anchovies, cut it into small fancy shapes, and serve. Salsify Salad. Cut some boiled heads of salsify into pieces two inches long, and mix with them some salt, pepper, chopped ravigote, oil and vinegar. When well mixed, add some half-set aspic. Fix a paste croustade on a dish, pile the salad on it, and serve. Sardine Salad. Steep the requisite quantity of sardines in vinegar for half an hour, then scrape them carefully, refresh them in more vinegar, and arrange them round the etL a dish. Chop fine a bunch of parsley, and three or four small onions, stone sev- eral olives, mix them with the onions, and place the entire mixture in the middle of the dish. Put the strained juice of two lemons in a basin with three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and beat with a wooden spoon until of a smooth creamy consistency. I'our the sauce over the salad, and serve without delay. Scallop Salad. Put the scallops into a basin of salted water and steep them for an hour, then rinse them in plenty of cold water and boil gently h>r twenty-five minutes. When SALADS. 43 1 cooked plunge the scallops into cold water, then drain and cut them into slices. Cut up the white stalks of a head of celery, put them in a salad-bowl, add the scallops, pour over them a mayonnaise dressing, and serve. Shrimp Salad. Take one quart of boiled and skinned shrimps, lav them in a deep dish, season- ing with one pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper and one tablcspoonful of vinegar and adding a few branches of celery, also chopped up. Mix well together, then transfer it to a salad-bowl and pour over one-half breakfast cupful of mayonnaise dressing; decorate with two hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters six leaves of lettuce, twelve stoned olives and one tablcspoonful of capers. The salad is then ready for use. Sorrel Salad. Procure a quantity of sorrel, wash it well in several waters and place it on a sieve to drain; if the leaves are large break them in halves, but if small they can be left whole. Place the sorrel in a bowl with a variety of other salad plants (such as may be in season), the sorrel being too sour to eat alone, cover it with a salad dressing in which the vinegar is left out, and serve. Common field sorrel is excellent in vege- table salads mixed with leaves of dandelion and served with a bacon dressing. Spanish Salad. Bleach some heads of endive, and arrange them in a mound in the middle of a dish ; peel some rather large tomatoes, divide them into sections, and place them round the endive. Boil some eggs very hard, and when cold, shell and set them in a mortar after having cut them into halves and scooping out the yolks, being careful not to break the whites. Pick some shrimps or lobster, and put them in the mortar with the yolks, and pound to a paste. Fill the hollow of the whites with the paste and level it off at the top, and arrange them round the tomatoes. Strew some chopped shallot and sweet pepper over the endive; mix together in equal propor- tions some oil and vinegar: season the mixture with salt and pepper, and pour it over the salad. Serve at once. String Bean Salad. The string beans arc to be boiled, cut up into diamond-shaped pieces and allowed to cool and drain well; mix them up with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and a little ravigote sauce, turn the salad into a croustade made of paste, and serve cold. Tomato Salad. Pour boiling water over the required number of tomatoes, then drain them and remove the skins; leave until quite cold, then divide into sections. Put the tomatoes 43 2 SALADS. into a salad-bowl, garnish with chopped tarragon leaves, pour a plain dressing of oil and vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper over them, and serve. A mayonnaise dressing can be used in place of a plain dressing, if preferred. Tomato and Artichoke Salad. Prepare a mixture or dressing of olive oil, vinegar, tarragon, chervil, salt and pepper. Have ready some boiled artichokes, cut them in slices, using the under part only, and also cut off an equal number of slices of tomatoes. Dip them into the dressing, arrange in a salad-bowl, pour over the dressing, and serve. Tomato and Cucumber Salad. Cover the bottom of a salad-dish with lettuce, place a layer of sliced cucumbers on the top, cover with a laver of slices of peeled tomatoes, pour over salad-dressing or mayonnaise sauce, and serve. Tomato Salad in Surprise. Peel a nice large tomato and empty its contents; then take some cold slaw and celery hashed up very fine and mix it with mayonnaise dressing, add a pinch of salt and a pinch of paprika pcppei. Mix it well and fill the tomato with this mixture. The tomato must be served very cold so as to have this salad a success. Use one tomato for each guest Tomatoes with Mayonnaise. Raw tomatoes, peeled and sliced, arc delicious with mavonnaise, which is made bv mixing gradually three parts of oil and one of vinegar with the yolk of an es;^, and adding a seasoning of salt and pepper. Mustard may also be added if liked. The egg and seasoning are put in the bottom of a bowl with a small quantity of vinegar and mixed to a smooth cream; the oil and vinegar are then added alternately, a few drops at a time, until the desired quantity of mayonnaise is obtained. It must be kept in a cool place until wanted. Tongue Salad. Cut some cold boiled beef tongue into small thin strips, place them in a salad- bowl and add some chopped boiled potatoes and a small quantity of celery cut into pieces. Strew over the salad some finely-chopped parsley and baste it with a few ta- blespoonfuls of beef broth. Prepare a plain salad-dressing of oil and vinegar, sea- soned with salt and pepper and pour it over the salad, which place in the refrigerator When ready to serve, garnish the salad with heart-leaves oi lettuce. SALADS. 433 Truffle Salad. Pick out all the black spots from half a dozen white truffles, wash them thor- oughly, wipe them dry on a cloth and chop them up as fine as possible. Pour a little oil into a saucepan, add two or three fillets of anchovies rubbed through, a fine sieve, make the oil hot, add the truffles and a little seasoning, remove the sauce- pan from the fire, toss it for a minute or two, turn the salad into a howl, and serve. Truffle and Celery Salad. Cut some cooked truffles into slices, and then into quarters, stir them in with the hearts of a few roots of celery, also cut up into small pieces about three-fourths of an inch in length, put them into a salad-bowl, pour over a dressing composed ot oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, and serve. Vegetable Salad. Boil some beet-root, eclcrv and onions. When cold cut them into thick slices. Mix together one saltspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of made mustard, one des- sertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and half a dozen drops of chili vinegar, and pour it over the vegetables. Waldorf Salad. Peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about halt an inch square, also cut some celery the same way, and mix it with the apple. He verv careful not to let any seeds of the apples he mixed with it. The salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise. Watereress Salad. Select three bunches of fresh watercress, pare off the stalks, clean, dry in a cloth, place in a salad-bowl, seasoning with one-half pinch of salt, a little pepper, and two tablcspoonfuls of vinegar; mix thoroughly, and serve. Watercress salad requires no oil. Vegetables. A great difficulty seems to exist among cooks and others in their efforts to define the distinction between vegetables and fruit. In a culinary sense the distinc- tion is somewhat simplified, the term vegetables being generally applied to those articles which have grown in or about the earth and are cooked, or dressed uncooked, as savories; fruits, on the contrary, are usually associated with sweets. Literallv, tin- term vegetables, derived from the Latin vegetare, would include all things that grow from the earth as members of the vegetable kingdom; but in a more limited sense, the term vegetables might be applied to those edible growths that are included amongst our vegetable foods without being connected with the organs of vegetable reproduction, which are known, correctly speaking, as fruits. This difficulty of distinction is very patent when we remember that some fruits are, in a culinary sense, stwcu vegetables, among which are tomatoes, vegetable marrows, peas, beans, cu- cumbers, etc., etc. Then again, the stalks of leaves, known as rhubarb, are es- teemed as fruit amongst cooks. Nuts, again, which are, most correctly speaking, the fruit of the tree which bears them, arc differently designated, when the}- are numbered amongst the dishes of a dessert. They are not vegetables, they are nuts. Whenever the vegetables are distinguished for their excellence the dinner is always particularly enjoyed; and if they arc served with each dish, as thev are- most appropriate and fresh from the dressing, it would be a great improvement on the present stvle. With some meats, something of the kind is practiced, as peas with duck, and beans with bacon, and such combinations are generally favorites, but the system might be extended, and with great advantage. With respect to variety of vegetables, I think the same rule applies as to other dishes. I would not have mam- sorts on the same occasion, but would study appropriateness and particular excel- lence. This is a matter for study, and a field for genius. To the eve of the in- itiated nothing can be more ridiculous than to see an American dinner-plate heaped up with a confusion of vegetables, none of them any too well dressed, except the potato, which is always present, and generally good. From the foregoing remarks it is quite evident that the cooking of vegetables might be regarded as a distinct culinary art. In large establishments it is quite usual to engage a cook especially experienced in this department, who, acting under the chef, is known as the vegetable cook. That the duties attached to his office are exceedingly important, requiring considerable intelligence, will be understood from the following instructions: lu the first place the cook should see that the vegetables are quite fresh, for, in i;i VEGETABLES. 435 spite of anything that may be said to the contrary, all vegetables, whether roots, leaves, or any other kind, begin to lose bulk and flavor as soon as they are removed from the ground. Those that suffer the least in this respect are roots and tubers, such as carrots and potatoes, and those that suffer most arc leaves, stalks and shoots, such as asparagus, cabbages and the like. To clean vegetables they should be first soaked for a time in salted water. In this way the flavor of the vegetables improves, and all insect life is removed. Next the dirt and grit must be thoroughly washed out, and for this purpose a wire sieve or basket should be used, which may be dipped again and again into a tub of water, the vegetables in it being shaken well and rinsed. Root vegetables offer the artistic cook a very extensive scope for the exercise of his skill and ingenuity, as may be seen from the various shapes and designs into which these vegetables may be cut. Flowers are frequently cleverly imitated, and rounds, olives, and lozenge shapes of every variety are to be seen in artistically prepared soups and garnishes. These re- quire special tools for their production, of which there are many in use. Artichokes Barigoule. Cut off about half an inch from the tops of the artichokes, trim off the leaves from the bottom and burn them. Wash thoroughly, put in a saucepan with a good supply of slightly-salted water and boil until quite tender. Take out, drain, and scoop out the slightly fibrous insides, ami squeeze perfectly dry. Put the tops of the leaves into a fryingpan with a few tablespoonfuls of oil to fry them. Place a small quantity of grated bacon in a saucepan with a little flour and butter, adding a gill of prepared fine herbs, and pour over a little broth; put the saucepan over the fire and stir for five minutes. Place a small quantity of this mixture in each artichoke (previously seasoned with salt and pepper internally) and cover the opening with a thin slice of bacon, bind around with string to keep them in position, put into a saute- pan together with a little broth, set the pan in the oven and bake for twenty minutes. Arrange the cooked leaves on a dish, remove the string and bacon from the arti- chokes, place on the leaves, and serve. Artichokes Boiled Plain. Cut off the tips of the leaves and round off the bottoms, removing the stalk and trimming the under leaves away. Soak in salt and water, washing well. Boil them in salt and water until they arc quite tender; the leaves come away readily when they are clone. Use a large quantity of water for the boiling, as it helps to rid them of a slight bitterness prevalent, especially in the autumn. When cooked drain on a cloth, and then remove with a spoon the soft fibrous substance found inside, and which is sometimes termed the "choke." Then place once more in boiling water to heat up and take out again, drain and serve in a vegetable dish with a strainer, or upon a neatly-folded napkin. Serve with melted butter. 436 VEGETABLES. Puree of Artichokes. Dress and cook some artichoke bottoms as for a garnish, and then when they are soft remove, drain and cut them up. Place in a saucepan with an equal bulk of bechamel sauce, glaze and reduce the liquor, rubbing the whole through a fine sieve into a basin, mixing in a little hot cream and butter, and serve. Artichokes Raw. A poivrade composed of a mixture of pepper, oil, vinegar and salt is placed on a plate and the artichoke held in the left hand by the tips of the leaves, is cut into slices, succcssivelv from the bottom, to each slice is attached a leaf; then holding the leaf between the finger and the thumb, the sliced bottom is dipped into the poivrade and eaten. Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms. Trim, cut in quarters and cook the desired number of artichokes in the Italian stvle, and fill the center of each with a little chicken forcemeat mixed with d'uxclles sauce. Place in a sautepan with a little butter and put in an oven to poach the forcemeat. Then remove, arrange on a dish and serve, pouring a little half-glaze over them. Boiled Asparagus. Have the asparagus as fresh as possible, scrape and clean, washing thoroughly and tie with a string into bundles of five or six shoots each, taking care to have the head even so that the stalks may be cut off at the bottom leaving them of equal length. Place the bundles in boiling salt and water and boil them fast without the lid until tender; this will be from twenty minutes to half an hour; then have ready some slices of toast without crust and lay them for sippets at the bottom of the veg- etable dish. Take out the bundles of asparagus from the boiling water, using great care to prevent the heads from falling off. Lay them upon the toast and untie them upon it, allow the asparagus to fall so that it will be one way upon the toast, and the sippet be moistened with the water of the asparagus. Melted butter with the juice of a lemon to every pint may be served separately in a boat or poured over it. Oiled butter is sometimes served with asparagus, especially in Paris and other continental cities. Asparagus Croustade. Carefully cut off a small piece of the end of three French rolls, and scrape out all the crumb with the handle of a spoon; put the tops and shells into a fryingpan with a little butter and fry them, or they may be placed before the fire to get crisp. Pour one break fastcupful of cream into a saucepan, add the yolks of five eggs, and beat together for a few minutes, seasoning with a little salt and grated nutmeg VEGETABLES. 437 the saucepan on the fire and when the mixture begins to thicken, put in about seventy green parts of the asparagus, cut up into small pieces. Fill the rolls with this mixture, replace the lids or pieces of the tops that were cut off, and with a sharp-pointed stick or skewer make sufficient holes at one end of them to insert about ten more of the green parts of the asparagus. Then arrange them on a napkin placed on a dish, and serve. The pieces of asparagus projecting from the rolls will give the appearance of growing out of them. Asparagus, Pompadour. After washing, place the asparagus in a saucepan of salted boiling water, and boil until done. Take them out, cut them into lengths of about two inches, and place in a cloth near the fire to dry. Prepare a little sauce with vinegar, butter, volk of egg, salt and pepper and place the asparagus on a dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. Asparagus with Cream. Cut into small pieces a bunch of asparagus and put in a saucepan of boiling water and blanch for about three minutes. Then remove, drain and put into another saucepan with a small quantity of warm water, some butter, sugar, and one onion. Set the pan on the side of the fire and simmer gently for half an hour, take out the onion, add a thickening of yolk of cii;g and cream, stir it well and turn the whole out onto a dish, ami serve. Asp aragus Tops with Cream. Cut off the points or heads of the desired quantity of asparagus, wash and drain them ami place in a saucepan with a little warmed butter. Set the pan on the fire, stir in a little bechamel sauce, and when <.\oni: remove, place on a dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. Boiled Black Beans. Place the beans in a basin of water and soak fur three hours. Then place in a saucepan of water and boil for three hours; take out, drain and place in another saucepan with a few small pieces of bacon a little chutney, mushroom catsup, anchovy sauce and gravy, and cook well for half an hour. Turn out onto a dish, and serve with a garnish of boiled rice. Boiled Lima Beans. Shell the beans and throw them into cold water to remain there until they are wanted. An hour before they are required place them in boiling water, adding some salt, and boil them until tender, when drain off the water, add a little fresh butter, and serve. 43 8 • VEGETABLES. Lima Beans Sauted. Use one quart of freshlv-shellcd lima beans, and parboil them in salted water for twenty minutes. Place them in fresh, cool water after draining, again drain them and put in a sautepan with a good-sized lump of butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. Cook for five minutes, tossing well, then moisten with some cream, adding a little chopped parsley, mix well together, and serve. Boiled String Beans. Take the fresh tender beans, break off the tops and bottoms carefully, stringing both sides, and paring the edges neatly; wash in cold water and drain. Then place them in boiling salted water and cook for twenty minutes. Drain and return them to cold water, letting them get thoroughly cool. Lift out and dry. They are then ready to serve. String Beans, Bretonne. Cut some onions into dice-shaped pieces placing them in a saucepan together with a little butter, let cook to a golden color on the stove, say for five minutes, and add a very little flour. Stir well and moisten with some white broth, continuing the stirring until it comes to a boil, season with salt and pepper. Then add the cooked beans with a clove of crushed garlic to the sauce, cook for ten minutes, place on a hot dish, sprinkling over it a little chopped parsley, and serve. String Beans, English Style. Prepare the beans in the same manner as for the boiled string beans, keep them warm and of a light green color, put on a hot dish, pouring over them a little melted butter, and sprinkle some chopped parsley on top, serving very hot. String Beans Sauted in Butter. Take some tender string beans and parboil them in slightly salted water for a couple of minutes, drain them and place in a saucepan on a hot stove, adding a lump of butter and season with salt. Stir lightly with a wooden spoon, while cooking for three min- ute--. 'Alien done, add a little finely-chopped parsley, place on a hot dish, anil serve String Beans with Cream. Prepare the beans, and then place them in a saucepan of slightly salted water, boiling until quite tender. Meanwhile put the volks of three or four eggs in a basin and beat them up with a little cream, adding some warmed butter, and beating well. Pour this mixture into a saucepan on the fire, anil, when quite hot, mix in a little VEGETABLES. 439 vinegar together with the beans. After they have been drained, remove the pan to the side of the fire, and steam gently for six or seven minutes, stirring constantlv. When done, turn out onto a dish, and serve at once. String Beans with Gravy. Put some string beans which have been cooked and allowed to become quite cold into a saucepan with a little chopped parsley and onions fried in butter, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper, and toss over the fire for about ten minutes. Then pour in sufficient stock and gravy from roasted meat to moisten and cook gently for fifteen minutes; skim off the beans and place on a dish, add the yolks of two or three eggs to the gravy to thicken it and pour over the beans, serving them hot. String Beans with Parsley and Butter. Place a good-sized lump of butter in a saucepan, sprinkle in a few green parsley leaves, add the beans, then stir until the butter is melted, the beans coated with it and the parsley is equally spread over them. Cover the pan over and place on side of the fire, cook for twenty minutes, and serve. White Beans and Boiled Pork. Select a suitable piece of pork, score the skin and boil for half an hour. For each pound of meat, take one quart of beans that have been soaked over night in soft water. Place them in cold water on the stove to boil, and when they become soft, drain off the water and set the pork in a deep dish on a layer of the beans, cov- ering it nearly over with the remainder; and add a little warm water; then bake to a nice brown. A little moist sugar mixed with beans before placing them in the dish considered an improvement by some. White Beans and Cream. Put a few mashed boiled onions in a saucepan with a little butter, grated nutmeg. s;ilt and pepper; add the beans, stirring gently over the fire until they are hot but without boiling; they are then ready for serving. Stewed White Beans. Boil the beans until quite tender; remove the rind from some streaky bacon and cut into pieces an inch long and half an inch thick, scald for five minutes in boiling water, drain and put in a stewpan and stir over the fire until of a light brown color, then add a little flour and stir lor a few minutes longer; add a cupful of claret wine and a little water, seasoning with pepper, and simmer for twenty-five minutes. Drain 44° VEGETABLES. the beans, place them in the stewpan with the bacon, adding a little butter, and toss over the fire till the butter is melted, and serve very hot. Baked Beet-Roots. After washing thoroughly place in a rather slow oven and when done serve hot with butter, pepper and salt. If baked whole they will probably require about eight hours to cook well. The Preparation of Beet-Roots for Table. Choose the small, smooth varieties; wash and clean them without cutting or scraping and boil for one to two hours, dependent upon their size. .Allow them to cool and then peel, cut into slices and serve in a glass dish; or they may be mixed in a salad. Beet-Roots Sauted in Butler. Prepare as for boiled beet-roots, and when cooked and peeled cut into heart- shaped pieces, place in a sautepan with a lump of butter, season with pepper and sprinkle over a very little loaf sugar powdered. Cook on a stove for six minutes, carefully tossing them from time to time; then arrange on a hot dish, and serve. Beet-Roots with Cream. Boil some beet-roots, peel and let them become cold, then slice and put in a stewpan with a little good stock. Beat up the yolk of an egg with one quart of good cream and stir into the stock in which the beet-root has been warmed. Serve on a dish with the sauce poured over it. Boiled Brussels Sprouts. Wash well in salted water about two pounds of Brussels sprouts and pick them over well. Place on the fire in a saucepan filled with water a little salt and bicarbonate of soda; leave off the lid and boil fast till quite tender, s;iv about twenty to twenty-five minutes. When done drain them and dry on a cloth, and put in a large sautepan a good- sized lump of butter and a little salt and pepper, and toss the sprouts in this until they become quite hot again, but do not fry them. They may be served on a quartered round of buttered toast or separately, as desired. Brussels Sprouts, Maitre d'Hotel. Boil the sprouts to be used and then place them in a large saucepan with a lump ot butter and heat them well. Put a hall pound ol fresh butter ui a pan with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice ol a couple ol lemons, a little salt VEGETABLES. 441 and white pepper, and mix together well with a spatula, and when it boils stir quickly. Place the sprouts on a dish and turn the sauce over them. Brussels Sprouts Sauted. One pound of Brussels sprouts should be thoroughly washed and boiled, and then put into a pan over the tire, together with a good-sized lump of butter, a little salt, and tossed for eight minutes. Sprinkle over them a little chopped parsley, and serve, when done. Brussels Sprouts Sauted with Cream. One pound of sprouts should be carefully pared, picked and blanched; drain and put into a sautcpan and two tablespoonfuls of veloute sauce; season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add half a breakfast cupful of sweet cream. Heat well, but do not allow them to come to a boil for five to six minutes, tossing them frequently to prevent burning. Dress them on a hot dish, and serve. Cabbage and Cream. Take a well blanched cabbage, drain, cool and chop it up fine, placing it in a saucepan with a couple of ounces of butter, a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg; add a tablcspoonful of flour, stirring well, and then pour in a breakfast cupful of cream. Reduce until the cabbage and cream are thoroughly mixed, say about forty- five minutes; arrange on a hot dish, and serve. Boiled Cabbages. Remove the outside leaves of the cabbages and place in salted water to cleanse them, then put them into a saucepan of boiling water salted, and boil fast; do not use a lid for the saucepan. When done, strain well, cut into quarters, serving them at once. When boiling it is well to change the water every ten minutes, as this produces a better flavor. Stuffed Cabbage. Procure a large head of cabbage, boil it but not quite tender; then very care- fully take out the middle and fill the cavity with a mixture of a tablespoonful of minced suet, two tablespoonfuls of bacon or ham, a like amount of cold meat, one raw egg, the grated rind of a lemon, a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt to taste. Milk may be used instead of the egg it desired. Tie with the string and put the cabbage in the oven, baking it for twenty minutes. Place on a dish and pour some rich brown gravy around it, but not over it. The cabbage should be frequently basted with dripping or butter, and must not be allowed to burn or become brown. 442 VEGETABLES. Cabbage with Cream. Clean two cabbages and boil until soft, then remove them from the water and chain, pressing well until dry. Chop up fine and place them in a stewpan in which an ounce of butter had been melted, add pepper and salt to taste. Place the whole over the fire for two or three minutes, stirring frequently. When quite hot sprinkle a handful of flour over, adding graduallv half a pint of milk or cream. Mix together thoroughlv, and serve. Boiled Pickled Red Cabbage with Oysters. Place the pickled cabbage in a bowl of boiling water and soak for ten to twelve minutes. Then remove and drain it dry, rubbing well with a cloth, put it into a saucepan with a small quantity of dripping and stock and sprinkle over a little coarse black pepper and boil it until done, when place it in a circle around a dish, filling in the center with stewed ovsters, and serve. Stewed Red Cabbage. Wash well a head of red cabbage, cut the leaves apart, trimming off all tough parts; peel and slice one onion, put it over the fire in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, a breakfast cupful of cold gravy, and half a saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt. Put in the cabbage, four tablespoonfuls of vinegar over it and cover the pan closely. Cook gently for an hour or until the cabbage is tender, stirring occasionally, and serve hot. Baked Cardoons with Breadcrumbs. Blanch and boil a sufficient number of cardoons; place them on a dish well buttered and sprinkled with grated bread, cover them with breadcrumbs, pour over sufficient warm butter to moisten, and brown the surface either with a salamander or in the oven. When done, take out the cardoons, and serve. A little grated cheese may also be sprinkled over with the breadcrumbs. Cardoons, Spanish Style. ■vire some very white heads of cardoons, cut each leal into slues six inches in length (with the exception of the hollow ones which are tough and thready), and remove all the prickles. Place the thickest leaves in a saucepan of boiling water, and boil them lor a lew minutes, then put in the leaves of the heart, turn the middle stalks into olive shapes, put them into the boiling water, and blanch them also; trv a in cold water to see whether tin- slime which is on the surface will conn- off 1>\ VEGETABLES. 443 rubbing; if so, take them off the fire immediately, refresh them in cold water, wash and rub this all off. Prepare a sauce as follows: Cut about half a pound of fat bacon, and a small piece of beef suet into large squares; put these into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, half a lemon cut into thin slices, a small lump of salt, and as much water as may be necessary to cover the cardoons when they are added. Stew this for half an hour, then throw in the cardoons and boil them up once, and leave in. When ready to use the cardoons, trim them at both ends, put them in a stewpan with one teacupful each of Spanish sauce and broth, and a small quantity of both sugar and salt; then boil over a sharp fire so as not to cook them too much, keeping the fat well skimmed off. When cooked arrange the cardoons on a hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and serve without delay. Cardoons with Beef Marrow. Take some cardoons prepared as in cardoons for garnish, arrange them in a silver saucepan, and pour over a little Spanish sauce. Blanch some beef marrow bv placing it in boiling water, take it out, drain, and spread on pieces of toast cut about a quarter of an inch thick, two inches long and an inch wide ; sprinkle these over with salt, glaze, and put them in a hot oven for four or five minutes. -Arrange the cardoons on a dish, place the pieces of toast on top, and serve. Cardoons with Cheese. Take the outside leaves from five cardoons, string the white parts, and cut into small pieces ; put in a saucepan with one pint of port wine, cook on a slow fire until tender. Season to taste, and add one ounce of butter rolled in flour. Put the whole in a dish, squeeze over the juice of an orange, and sprinkle over four ounces of gTated cheese. Brown the surface with a salamander, or in the oven. Serve as hot as possible. Cardoons with Veloute Sauce. Cut the leaves of the cardoons into slices, with the exception of the tough hollow ones, and remove all the prickles. Place the thickest leaves in a saucepan of boiling water, boil them for a few minutes, and then put in the leaves of the heart; trim the middle stocks into large olives, and after blanching them put them in also. Rub a piece of the cardoons in cold water in order to determine whether the slime will come off easilv, and if so, throw in the lot and rub them well. When quite clean, put the cardoons in white sauce, and boil them. Then remove the cardoons, put them in a stewpan with some stockbroth, and boil them quicklv. When cooked, put them on a hot dish, drain them, pour over some hot veloute sauce, and serve. If pre- ferred, French melted butter can be used in place of the sauce veloute. 444 VEGETABLES. Carrot Fritters. Beat into pulp a large boiled carrot, pass it through a sieve and mix in two table- spoonfuls of cream, stirring in two well-beaten eggs. Put a piece of lard in a fry- ingpan, and when this is hot, shape the mixture into fritters and fry them. When done, place them on a hot dish and serve with brown sauce. Carrots, Housekeeper's Style. Peel some young carrots and leave them in cold water for a short time; slice them thin and put them into a stewpan half full of good broth, season with salt, pepper, mace and a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, and stew until they are tender. When done, put them on a dish. Mix some flour with a little liquor in a cup, stir it in with the other and add a piece of butter and a little browning. When thick, pour it over the carrots, and serve. Carrots, Maitre d' Hotel. Scrape a number of carrots, cut them in halves lengthwise and boil them in salted water. When they are tender, take them out of the water, place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, some chopped parsley, pepper, salt and sugar, squeezing the juice of a lemon over them. Toss them about over a moderate fire for a few minutes then pour them on a hot dish, and serve. Mashed Carrots. Scrape and wash some carrots, cut them in quarters lengthwise and boil till ten- der in broth. When they are done, strain, pass them through a sieve and season with pepper and salt, and add a lump of butter. Fill some cups or moulds with the pulp, press it down tightly and then turn them out. This is a verv tasty form of serving carrots. Carrots, Poulette Style. Wash and scrape the required number of carrots, place them in a bowl of boiling water to scald. Take them out, drain, slice, put them into a saucepan of boiling water with a bit of butter in it, and boil until they are done and quite tender. Put a little flour and butter into a fryingpaii, cook tor a lew minutes, sprinkle in salt and pepper to taste, and add a little lemon juice, the yolks of two eggs and some rich stock. Then place the carrots in it and toss them over the fire so as to cook without boiling. Turn the whole out onto a dish, and serve. (Carrots Stewed in Sugar and (-ream. Scrape and clean six or eight large, sound carrots, put them into a saucepan ot water and boil until they are done and nearly all the water is absorbed or evaporated. VEGETABLES. 445 Mash the carrots, pour in a little milk and one tablespoonful of potato flour, a few dried orange flowers and a very little sifted crushed loaf-sugar; stir in a sufficient number of eggs to thicken, using three yolks to two whites, and whipping them well with warmed butter. Heat the mixture in the oven until it is cf the required consist- ence, then turn it out onto a dish, and seryc very hot with powdered sugar sprinkled over. Carrots with Fine Herbs. Wash and scrape about three large carrots, cut them into thick slices, put them into a saucepan with a lump of salt and plenty of cold water, and boil until the}- are tender. Put a small lump of butter into a saucepan, place it oyer the fire until melted, then put in a small finely-chopped onion, and toss it about oyer the fire until it is browned. Pour a pint of water, or clear broth, over the onion and boil it for five minutes. Drain the carrots and put them in with the onion, add about one dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, and boil for three or four minutes longer. Remove the carrots from the fire, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Turn the stew onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Boiled Cauliflower. Trim off the leaves of a sound, firm head of cauliflower and wash it well in plenty of cold water in which a handful of salt has been dissolved. If any insects are \ isihlr between the branches of the cauliflower let it soak in salted water, with the flowerets down, for an hour or so, as the salt will kill the insects and they will fall down into the water. About three-quarters of an hour before serving put two tablcspoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, and one- fourth teaspoonful of white pepper into a saucepan large enough to hold the cauliflower; take from it the salted water, put it at once into the saucepan without draining it, cover carefully, set it over a slow fire, and let simmer until tender, which will be in about half an hour. Then without breaking the cauliflower take it up on a hot dish, let the butter ami water in which it was cooked boil rapidly for a minute or so, then pour it over the cauliflower, and serve. If a thick sauce is desired, mix one teaspoonful of flour or cornstarch dis- solved in one teacupful of water with the butter and water, boiling it constantly for two minutes, stirring frequently, and then serve it with the cauliflower. After it is carefully washed the cauliflower may be boiled till it is tender, and then drained and served with white sauce; or covered with sauce and breadcrumbs and browned in a hot oven; or when the heads are small ami defective, either boiled or served in branches instead of whole, or mashed through a colander, ami heated with pepper, salt and butter. Cold boiled cauliflower is very palatable fried plain in butter, or broken in branches and served; or mashed and fried, with the adding of an egg, and salt and pepper. 446 VEGETABLES. Boiled Cauliflower, American Style. Pluck off the outside leaves and soak in cold salted water, top downwards for an hour to thoroughly cleanse it; then tie it in a twine bag to prevent breaking, and cook in salted boiling water for about twenty minutes, or until quite tender. If it is not boiled in a bag, remove the scum before it settles on the cauliflower. Serve in a shallow dish and cover it with a cream of hollandaise sauce, or add a little grated cheese; cover with cracker-crumbs moistened in melted butter and bake until the crumbs are done brown, or when cold, serve as a salad with mayonnaise dressing. Cauliflower Fritters. Cut into equal-sized pieces two well-boiled cauliflowers, dip each piece into thick vellow or white sauce, and place them one side to cool. Take them out with a spoon, put them into a basin of frving-batter, plunge them into a frvingpan of boiling fat and fry to a good color. Serve very hot on a napkin spread over a dish. If it is pre- ferred, the pieces of cauliflower may be dipped into vinegar, oil, salt and pepper mixed together in place of the batter, and then fried. Gratinated Cauliflowers. After trimming off the leaves of two or three cauliflowers, leaving only the cen- ters, boil them in water until they are about two-thirds done; then remove, drain and divide into sprigs or natural sections. Place a layer of these on the bottom of a baking-dish, cover them with a sauce made of melted butter in which grated Par- mesan and Gruyere cheese have been mixed, and keep on in this way with the lavers until the dish is full. Sprinkle a small quantity of cheese on the top, and then a few breadcrumbs or grated bread, pour over the top a little melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven until done and of a good color. If the cheese is not desired, it may be entirely discarded ; but if it is used it should be mixed with the sauce and not simply grated on the top. Care must be taken to see that every portion of the cauliflower is covered with the sauce. Cauliflowers in Mayonnaise. Select some large cold boiled cauliflowers and break them into small branches, adding a little salt, pepper and vinegar to properly season; then heap them on a dish so that they will form a point. Surround the dish with a garnish of cooked carrots, turnips and green vegetables, pour some white mayonnaise sauce over all, and serve. Mashed Cauliflowers. After boiling two cauliflowers cut the heads up into small branches. Put one teaspoonful <>i chopped onion into a saucepan with a small piece of butter and place VEGETABLES. 447 the pan on ;i slow lire for about fifteen minutes; then throw in the cauliflowers and beat well with a wooden spoon; put in ten or a dozen tablespoonfuls of good white broth and one tablespoonful of flour and boil for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, adding one teaspoon ful of sugar and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Pass the mixture through a sieve into another stewpan, add about a gill of cream or milk, and serve. If it is too thick add more milk. Stewed Cauliflower. Divide into branches or sprigs two or three cauliflowers and put these into hot water for three minutes to scald; then drain, put them into a saucepan, cover over with stock, sprinkle ever a little grated nutmeg and boil them until they are done. Take them out, drain, put them into a sautepan with a small quantity of butter and some finely-chopped parsley and toss the pan for a few minutes over a brisk fire. Turn them onto a dish, and serve while very hot. Cauliflower with Cream Sauce. In the usual way cauliflower takes from thirty to fortv-five minutes to cook, and it should not be allowed to boil rapidly or it will destroy the small flowerets. Test the stems with a fork, and remove as soon as tender. Put a piece of bicarbonate of soda the size of a bean into the water, and this will hasten the cooking without injur- ing the cauliflower. Divide the cauliflower into portions of convenient size before cooking, and when drained and dished up pour one or two tablespoonfuls of strained cream-sauce over each portion Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese. Take a cauliflower and break it into tufts, wash these thoroughly and put them into salted boiling water, but do not allow them to cook too soft. When cooked put each piece into warmed butter first and then strain them into grated Parmesan cheese, seasoned with dry mustard, pepper and salt. Place the pieces neatly together on a dish, pour over a little warmed butter, and bake in a hot oven for five minutes. When done, serve immediately. Boiled Celery. Trim off all outside pieces, and suppress the roots of three heads of celery, cut them into lengths of six inches each, wash well and tie together. Cover them with boiling water in a saucepan, add a piece of mace, some peppercorns, an onion, and a little salt, and then boil. Put one tablespoonful of flour and one tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and when it is melted add sufficient water to that in which the celery was boiled to make the sauce. Beat the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon, and when the sauce is off the fire stir it in, adding a pinch of salt. When the 44« VEGETABLES. celery is done, place it on a dish, cut off the string that fastens it together, and pour over the sauce. Braised Celery. Select a few heads of celery, and trim each stalk, leaving nothing but the white part; then tic them in bundles and parboil them for about ten minutes, next throwing them into cold water. After a few minutes remove and drain them on a sieve ; place them in a stewpan with some good white stock, and let simmer gently for about an hour. When done drain them upon a napkin, and dish up upon croutons of fried bread. Pour over some good brown sauce to which has been added a little chicken glaze, and serve. Fried Celery. Boil two or three sound, well-trimmed heads of celery till they are about half cooked, or a trifle more ; remove, drain thoroughly, cut them into short lengths, dip them in batter, and fry in hot fat to a light brown. If it is well done this dish is very tasty; but it is useless to attempt it without a deep frvingpan, and plenty of oil or fat to fry in. Stewed Celery. Trim a few heads of celery, and blanch them in boiling water, drain, and place them in cold water. Take them out when cold and drain all the water from them without squeezing. Place them in a pan with a little consomme or stock broth and one tcaspoonful of moistened sugar, and allow them to stew for an hour and a half; then pour over them four tablespoonfuls of bechamel or veloute sauce; strain the whole through a strainer, and set in a bain-marie. When it is ready to serve, add to the sauce a little thick cream, which will enrich and make it white. Celery with Marrow. Wash and trim ten or a dozen heads of celery and put them in boiling water to blanch for ten minutes; then drain, put them into a stewpan, cover with white stock and allow them to boil gently until they are done and tender. Then drain again, dress them on thin slices of toasted bread on a dish with four large pieces of boiled marrow around and pour over one pint of good brown sauce. Previously reduce the sauce with one-half pint of the sauce in which the celery was stewed, adding a little sugar to season it. Cepes in Shells. Select some small sound cepes, mince the heads, place them in a frvingpan with a small lump of butter and fry them gently, tossing them about, season to taste, throw in a small bunch of sweet herbs, and when the moisture has evaporated put in a few tnblcspoonfuls of bechamel same th.it has been reduced until it is of a creamy VEGETABLES. 449 mixture. Fill some silver shells with the above, level the surface with a knife-blade and sprinkle on some grated breadcrumbs; baste each with a tablespoonful of warm butter and brown them under a salamander or in an oven. When the surface is glazed over arrange the shells on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, and serve. A few sprigs of fried parslev improves the appearance of the dish. Boiled Chestnuts Served as a Vegetable. Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts and steep them in boiling water until the skin can be quickly and easily removed, throwing them as they are peeled into a bowl of cold water. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with two table- spoonfuls of flour and stir the whole over the fire until well mixed. Then pour in one-half pint or more of clear broth (according to the quantitv of chestnuts), and continue to stir over the fire until boiling. Season the sauce with salt, throw in the chestnuts and keep them simmering at the side of the fire until soft. When served in this way they make a good vegetable for roasted meats or poultry, particularly turkev. Boiled Corn. Choose short, thick cars of fresh corn ; remove all the husks except the inner layer; strip that down in order to remove all the silk from the corn and to permit the removal of any defective grains, and then replace it, and tie at the upper end of each ear of corn. Have readv a large pot half full of boiling water, put in the corn, and boil steadily for about twenty minutes if the ears are large, or fifteen minutes if they are only of medium size; then take from the boiling water, remove the strings; serve hot at once. If it seems desirable to strip off the inner husk just before sending to the table, this must be done very quickly and the corn covered with a clean napkin or cloth to prevent the escape of heat. Serve plenty of butter, salt and pepper with the corn. Sometimes these latter are mixed, by heating them, together, and then served in a gravy-bowl. The fresher the corn the sweeter it is. It seems to lose its most delicate flavor after having been gathered for a few hours. Corn Cakes. Mix thoroughly together one quart of Indian corn removed from the ear with a coarse grater, two teacupfuls of new milk, one teacupful of flour, and two well-beaten OH the batter with salt and pepper, and bake in cakes upon a griddle. The corn should be in a condition most suitable lor roasting or boiling. This is a very nice dish. Corn Fritters. Prepare four cars of fresh corn by removing the outer husks and silks; boil, then drain well, cut the grains from the cobs to place in a bowl, season with salt and 450 VEGETABLES. pepper, add one-fourth pound of sifted flour, two eggs and one-half pint of cold milk Stir vigorously, but do not beat, with a wooden spoon for five minutes, when it will be sufficiently firm. Butter a fryingpan, place it on the fire, then take a ladle holding one gill, and with this put the preparation into the pan in twelve parts, being careful that they do not touch one another, and let them get a good golden color, cooking for four or five minutes on each side. Dress them on a folded napkin, and serve. Grated Corn. Place the necessary number of ears of Indian corn in a saucepan and boil them. Grate off the cob, add a little butter, salt and cream, put the mixture into a dish, and serve like a vegetable. Mashed Corn. Wash and drain about one quart of fresh corn cut from the cob, put it into a saucepan with two quarts of boiling water, a bunch of thyme, two or three small onions, one carrot, two or three cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. Boil the corn until tender, then pour it onto a fine wire sieve, remove the onions, thyme, parsley, carrot and cloves. Return the corn to the saucepan with a small quantity of rich broth and two ounces of butter, and stir all together over the fire for a few minutes. Serve the puree very hot. Roasted Corn. Remove the silks and husks from one dozen ears of corn, rub them with butter, season with pepper and salt, lay them in a drippingpan, and place the pan as close as possible to a clear hot fire. Turn the ears now and then, and change their position in the pan so that all may cook evenly. When they are browned, serve hot. Corn Stewed with Cream. Select half a dozen ears of Indian corn, remove the silk and outer leave* and place them in a saucepan covering with water, cook', drain and cut off the corn from the cobs with a sharp knife, being very careful that none of the cob adheres to the corn, and place it in a stewpan with one teacupful of hot bechamel sauce, one-half breakfast cupful of cream and about one-fourth ounce of butter. Season with pepper and salt and a little grated nutmeg. Cook gently on the stove for five minutes, place it in a hot dish, and serve. Cucumbers as Cardoons. Quarter some cucumbers lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and slit the outsides so that they may resemble cardoons. Blanch them in boiling water, stew in strong broth with two or three tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce and boil over a sharp fire. Should the broth taste bitter, put in a little piece of sugar. Serve hot. VEGETABLES. 45 j Cucumbers, Bechamel. Take one or two cucumbers; remove the peel and seeds, cut into slices, blanch in hot salted water, drain and plunge them into cold water; take them out and dry. Pour some bechamel sauce into a saucepan on the side of the fire, warm the slices of cucumber in it without letting the sauce boil. Turn the whole out on a dish, and serve. Cucumbers, French Style. Peel a green cucumber, slice it very thin, put in a basin with half an ounce of salt,, and pickle for four hours. Drain well and arrange the slices on a dish with pep- per, oil, vinegar and one tablespoonful of chopped herbs, such as parsley, chervil and tan agon put over the slices. Fried Cucumbers. Select two or three cucumbers; cut into thick slices and remove the seeds; then place them in a deep dish with salted water slightly acidulated with vinegar and let tin in soak for about an hour. Take them out and dry and drain on a cloth, then fry in boiling lard until a light brown; drain, and they are ready for use. They arc gen- erally used for brown stews. Stewed Cucumbers. Peel some cucumbers, split them lengthwise in four pieces each, scoop out the seeds, and wash; cut into smaller pieces and place in a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt, and boil till tender; drain and dry on a cloth. Into a stewpan put two ounces of butter with two tablcspoonfuls of Hour, stir over the fire until well mixed; then put in the pieces of cucumber, moisten nearly to height with broth, i with salt, pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and stir the whole over the fire until the liquor has reduced to the required thickness. When ready, take the saucepan off the fire, place it at the side, and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs and a few drops of vinegar. Boiled Eggplant. Peel the eggplants, cut them into moderate-sized pieces, put them into a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt, a pinch of parsley, and an onion stuck with two or three clows, and boil them until tender. Prepare the following sauce: Put one ounce of butter into a small stewpan with one-third tablespoonful of flour, and mix it over the fire; then stir in a small bottle of tomato sauce, and keep on stirring until boiling, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. When cooked, drain the eggplant, place them on a hot vegetable dish, pour the sauce over, and serve while very hot. 452 VEGETABLES. Boiled Eggplant with Parmesan Cheese. Peel the eggplant, cut it into halves lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds; then cut them into convenient lengths, place them in a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt, an onion stuck with three or four cloves, and a bunch of parsley, and boil them until tender. Prepare the following sauce: Mix well one ounce of butter and one tablespoonfulof flour in a stewpan over the fire; then mix in gradually one- half pint of boiling water, and stir over the fire for five minutes, then move it to the side and stir in the juice of a small lemon. When the eggplant is cooked, drain it well, put it on a hot dish, with some pieces of toast underneath, pour the sauce over, and serve. Broiled Eggplant. Peel an eggplant and cut it into six slices half an inch thick ; put them in a dish and season with salt and pepper and pour over one tablespoonful of sweet oil. Mix well, arrange the slices on a broiler and broil for five minutes on each side. Remove them from the fire, place on a hot dish, spread over a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce, and serve. Fried Eggplant. Select a nice large eggplant, peel it, remove the seeds and cut it into pieces about one and one-half inches long and three-fourths of an inch wide. Put these on a plate, sprinkle them well with salt, and leave for an hour or two. Afterward put them on a cloth, twist it round and wring it well to extract as much juice as possible from the plant, but do not squeeze the pieces hard enough to break them. Sprinkle them over with flour, seeing that each piece is well covered, and place them in a frv- ing-basket. Put a large lump of fat in a stewpan, and when boiling put it in the basket. As each piece of plant is nicely browned take it out of the basket, sprinkle it lightly with salt, and lay it on a sheet of paper in front of the fire for a minute or two, to drain as free from fat as possible. Spread a napkin over a hot dish, lav the eggplant on it, and serve. Fried Eggplant with Parmesan Cheese. Peel the eggplant, cut it into quarters lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and cut it into convenient lengths. Rub a stewpan over with garlic, put in a large lump of butter, and melt it ; then put in the pieces of eggplant, season to taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and toss them about over the lire. !'.< lore the eggplant is quite done put in plenty of grated Parmesan cheese, and add more butter if necessary. When quite tender turn the eggplant onto a hot dish, with the cheese over it, garnish with sippets of hot buttered toast, and serve. VEGETABLES. 453 Eggplant Fritters. Boil the eggplant in salted water mixed with a little lemon juice; when tender, skin, drain and mash them. For every pint of pulp add half a breakfast cupful of flour, take two well-beaten eggs and season with salt and pepper to taste. Shape into small fritters, put them in boiling fat, and fry both sides until brown. Eggplant, Lyonnese. Peel the eggplant and cut it into round slices about one-third of an inch thick. Peel and slice a couple of onions, place them in a stewpan with plenty of butter and frv them until lightly browned; then put in the slices of eggplant, season to taste with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, pour over a small quantity of stock and stew gently until tender. When cooked, stew a moderate quantity of finely-minced pars- ley over the eggplant, turn it onto a hot dish with the sauce oyer it, and serve. Mashed Eggplant. Place in a dish a large onion cut in slices; add two green peppers also cut in slices, squeeze over the juice of a sweet lime and soak for several hours. Put into a quick oven a couple of fine young eggplants and roast them; take them out when done, open and scoop out as much of the inside as possible. Put this into a basin; add one teaspoonful each of salt, mustard and oil and work the whole to a pulp, cast- ing out all the lumps. Then add the onions and peppers and as much of the lime juice as required. After mixing thoroughly, the preparation is ready for use. Eggplant, Poulette Style. Peel the eggplant, cut it in halves, remove the seeds and cut it into small pieces. Put a large lump of butter in a stewpan to melt, put in the pieces of eggplant, toss them about for a few minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper and pour over them a small quantity of clear broth. Let them stew over a gentle fire until quite cooked, then move the stewpan to the side of the fire and stir in a moderate quantity of finely- minced parsley, with the yolk of an c^ that has been beaten up with the juice of half a lemon and strained. Lay the pieces of eggplant on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Stewed Eggplant. Peel some young, tender eggplant, and cut them into convenient-sized pieces: put them in ;i saucepan with a good-sized lump of butter, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss them over the fire for a quarter of an hour, then pour in as much plain stock freed from fat as will reach to half their height, and boil them gently 454 VEGETABLES. until they are quite tender. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and stir in quickly the yolk of an egg that has been well beaten with the juice of a lemon and strained, and add about one tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley. Place some slices of hot buttered toast onto a hot dish, turn the eggplant onto it, and serve at once. Stewed Eggplant with Onions. Take an eggplant, cut it into thin slices lengthwise, dust them over with salt and let them remain until the bitter juice is extracted; then drain and put them in a fry- ingpan with olive oil or butter, and brown over a brisk fire. Take them out of the pan and lay them at the bottom of a baking-dish. Peel four medium-sized onions, cut them in slices and put them in the frvingpan, adding more olive oil or butter if required, and fry until browned. Lay the onions over the eggplant, season with salt and three teaspoonfuls of sugar, pour in one teacupful of water and half that quantity of vine- gar, and set the pan over a slow fire. When the moisture is nearly all absorbed, arrange the eggplant and onions on a hot dish, and serve. Stuffed Eggplant. Wash and dry six eggplant; cut off the tops without detaching, so they will serve as lids. Scoop out all the insides and season inwardly with salt and pepper. Take one medium-sized onion, peel and chop very fine and put in a saucepan with half an ounce of butter and cook for three minutes over a brisk fire, taking care not to brown it; add six chopped mushrooms and one ounce of sausage meat, season with salt and pepper and cook for three minutes longer, stirring constantly. Now put in the insides of the plant, finely chopped, one teacupful of breadcrumbs and one tea- spoonful of finely-chopped parsley; mix thoroughly and cook for two minutes longer, or until the preparation commences to boil. Turn it into a basin when cold, stuff it into the eggplant skins, replace the lids, put the plant gently on a dish, cover with buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven for eighteen minutes. Stewed Endive with Cream Sauce. Take three large heads of endive and clean thoroughlv; cut off all the outer green leaves and wash the endive in several waters. Drain and blanch them in boiling salted water for ten minutes. Remove, cool in cold water, then take them out and press out the water; chop up, place in a saucepan with four ounces of butter and cook for a quarter of an hour, until dry. Tour over two wine-glassfuls of cream or milk, a very little at a time, reduce, and grate in a little nutmeg, adding salt ami pepper to taste. Stir well and leave on the fire for five minutes, turn it out on a hot dish, and with croutons of fried bread lor a garnish. VEGETABLES. 455 Green Peas, Ancient Style. Take three quarts of young, tender green peas, shell them carefully, and keep them wrapped up in a wet cloth till wanted. Clean, drain, and tie up a lettuce head, put it in a saucepan with the peas, add a little salt, cover with a wineglassful of water, and add four ounces of butter. After cooking for fifteen minutes, remove the lettuce, and when ready to serve, thicken the peas with three tablespoonfuls of cream, diluted with the yolk of an c^^ adding a very little white pepper, and a table- spoonful of powdered loaf sugar. Let all thicken together for five minutes, and serve at once in a vegetable dish. Boiled Green Peas. Shell one peck of fresh green peas, wash them in water, put them into two quarts of boiling water with one tablespoonful of salt and boil fast until they arc tender | they should take about ten minutes ), then drain, season with salt, pepper and butter, and serve at once. If the peas are to be served with lamb a small bunch of green mint should be boiled with them. Parsley and young onions are sometimes boiled with green peas when their flavor is desired, and frequently a little sugar is added to sweeten them. Green Peas, Bourgeoise. Select the required quantity of young peas, put them into a stewpan with butter, allowing eight ounces to every quart of peas; add also the washed heart of a large lettuce, a bunch of parsley, a few small onions and a little salt. Moisten witli a little broth and cook slowly until tender. Stir in the beaten volks of two eggs and one teaspoonful of sugar, but do not boil after the eggs are added. Turn the peas onto a hot dish, and serve. Buttered Green Peas. Put some fresh green peas into a saucepan with a lump of butter, a little salt and a small quantity of water, cover and boil over a quick fire until tender. Knead one ounce of butter with some flour, put it in with the peas, stir them till thickened, then put in four ounces of butter broken in little pieces, one-half teaspoonful of sugar and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Turn the peas out onto a hot dish, garnish with sippets of fried bread, and serve. Green Peas, English Style. Shell and wash two quarts or more of green peas, remove the small ones, put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add n handful of salt and boil quickly without covering for fifteen minutes, removing the scum as it rises. When tender strain through .1 colander, return them to the saucepan and toss well, adding one and 456 VEGETABLES. one-fourth ounce of fresh butter. Dish them in a vegetable dish, place another half ounce of butter in the center, and serve. Green Peas, Peasant Style. Wash a few cabbages and long lettuces, a handful of parsley and three or four green onions, cut them into shreds and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of green peas and a piece of butter; cover the pan and let them cook over a very slow fire without any other moisture, stirring occasionally to prevent their burning. When well cooked season with pepper and salt, turn them onto a hot dish, and serve. Puree of Green Peas. Put some green peas in a saucepan with a very small quantity of water and boil them until tender, then pass the whole through a fine hair-sieve. Put the puree in a saucepan with a little broth and stir it over the fire until boiling. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, put in one-half tcaspoonful of sugar, a moderate-sized lump of butter, and salt to taste. Cut some slices of bread, shape them into small croutons and fry them in butter. When lightly browned drain the croutons, put them in a deep dish, and pour the puree over them. Serve it with a separate dish of boiled rice. Stewed Green Peas with Bacon. Remove the rind from four ounces of streaky bacon, cut the bacon into small pieces, blanch them for a few minutes, then drain, put them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter and fry for five minutes; put a tablespoonful of flour in with the bacon, stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then add one quart of young green peas, one onion, and one pint of water. Bring it to a boil, cover the saucepan, move it to the side of the fire, and cook slowly for half an hour; take the onion out, skin the fat off the liquor, add salt and pepper to taste, turn all into a hot dish, and serve. Stewed Green Peas with Spanish Sauce. Put some young peas in an earthenware pan with a small piece of butter and plenty of fresh water; rub them well with the hands and drain. ■ Put them in a stewpan with a bunch of parsley and two or three green onions, cover close, and let them sweat. When nearly done pour in with the peas one and one-half teacupfuls of Spanish sauce, season with sugar and salt, skim off all the fat, and boil the sauce till reduced; thicken it with the beaten yolks of two eggs, and serve. This is a very delicious dish, and should be freely garnished with a border of small croutons of bread fried in bacon fat. VEGETABLES. 457 Stuffed and Baked Green Peppers. Wash ten or a dozen large green peppers, put them into boiling water, and boil for five minutes; take them from the water and remove the skins by rubbing with a wet cloth. Cut off the stem ends, remove the seeds with a large spoon, and stuff the peppers with any kind of minced cold meat, mixed with an equal quantity of stale bread moistened with cold water, and properly season with salt. Replace the stems, set the peppers in a deep earthen dish or plate, pour in as much cold gravy as the dish will hold, and bake them in a moderate oven for half an hour. They may be stuffed with sausage-meat and bread. Serve on the dish in which they were baked. Cheese may be grated and mixed with breadcrumbs for stuffing peppers; and they should then be fried instead of being baked. Baked Leeks. Trim off the fibrous roots and cut off the green stalks to within one inch of the white portion of the leeks. Place them in boiling water and soak for ten minutes; then drain, put them into a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt and boil for three-quarters of an hour. Put one ounce of butter into another saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir over the fire until well mixed, then add one heaping tablcspoonful of grated cheese and one half-pint of stock, season to taste with pep- per and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, stir again and boil for two or three min- utes. When the leeks are cooked, drain, place them in a baking-dish, pour half of the sauce over and stew thickly with grated cheese, dust a little cayenne over the top and place the dish in a hot oven until lightly browned. Remove the dish, pour the remainder of the sauce round it, and serve. Puree of Leeks. Trim and wash the required quantity of leeks, place them in boiling salted water and boil until tender; press the leeks through a fine hair-sieve, place this in a sauce- pan with a lump of butter, one-half pint of cream and one teaspoonful each of sugar and flour. Stir over the fire and boil until reduced, then thicken it with the beaten yolks of two eggs. Turn the puree on a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Lentils and Bacon. Wash the lentils, put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, a bay leaf and a blade of mace tied together, an onion stuck with three or four cloves and boil gently until soft, adding more boiling water now and then; when cooked, drain the lentils. Peel and slice an onion, put it in a stewpan with a lump of butter and fry; when nicely browned, put in one-fourth pound of fat bacon cut into small squares, 45 8 VEGETABLES. and when cooked, put in the lentils. Moisten with a little clear stock, season to taste with pepper and salt and add some finely-chopped parsley. Boil all gently by the side of the fire for a few minutes, then turn onto a hot dish, and serve with sip- pets of toast, or small croutons of fried bread. Lentil Curry. Chop three or four onions with a clove of garlic and two green peppers, then pound them in a mortar. Wash one-half pound of lentils, picking them over care- fully, put them in a fryingpan and toss about over the fire until browned, then put them into a saucepan with the pounded mixture, one teaspoonful of ground turmeric, a little salt and cold water to cover, boiling until tender. When cooked drain all the water from the lentils and add two ounces of butter and two sliced onions fried to a golden brown. Toss all over the fire for a few minutes, then turn it onto a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast, and serve with plain boiled rice. Lentils with Onions. Pick the lentils over carefully and wash them well, put them in a saucepan with plentv of cold water and boil until tender. When soft turn the lentils onto a fine sieve and allow them to drain thoroughly. Peel and cut into thin slices a number of onions, put them into a flat stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry. Put the lentils in with the onions, season to taste with pepper and salt, moisten with a little clear stock, and allow them to simmer at the side of the fire for a few minutes. If the stock is not convenient moisten with the cooking water of the lentils. When ready, turn them onto a hot dish, and serve. Baked Stuffed Lettuce. Pick, clean, pare and thoroughly wash half a dozen lettuce heads, parboil them for five minutes, drain thoroughly and fill the insides with sausage forcemeat. Tie each head and put them into a stewpan, laying down carefully and adding one gill of Madeira sauce and white broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover with buttered paper and cook in the oven for fifteen minutes. Arrange on a hot dish, untie, pour the sauce over, and serve. Braised Lettm ect some fresh lettuces with firm, white hearts, wash thoroughly in several waters and plunge them into a saucepan of boiling water and boil for five minutes. Take out the lettuces with a skimmer, refresh, then press well with the hands t tract as much of the water as possible. Put some thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, fold the lettuces, lav them in, season well and cover with unskimmed brotn. ised paper over the lettuces and braise for an hour and a VEGETABLES. 459 quarter over a moderate fire with hot ashes on the lid of the stewpan. When the mixture is reduced to a i;laze drain the lettuces, put them on a hot dish, pour over some brown sauce or rich gravy, and serve at once. Stewed Lettuce. Trim off the outside leaves of some lettuce, blanch in boiling water, rinse in cold water and tie together in twos. Line a saucepan with buttered paper, put in the let- tuce with some herbs, a few chopped onions, season, cover with stock. When boil- inn' remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and let it simmer for two hours. Take tlie lettuces out, untie and put on a hot dish; reduce the liquor in which they were cooked, strain through a sieve and pour over. Serve while hot. Braised Stuffed Lettuces. Select the required quantity of lettuces, trim, wash, blanch ami drain them; then cut out the middle leaves carefully, fill the hollow with a fowl and truffle forcemeat and lie the lettuces round with a string; line a stewpan with some pieces of veal, sliced, put in some chopped carrots, onions and a bunch of sweet herbs anil the let- Moisten the latter to half their height with stock" and braise. Warm some bechamel sauce together with the yolk of an egg, place the lettuces on a hot dish, and serve with the sauce poured over them. Baked Mushrooms in Cups. keel and cut off the stalks of a dozen or more large flat mushrooms, and chop them fine. Put the trimmings in a stewpan with some water or clear gravy, and boil well. When nicely flavored strain the liquor, return it to the stewpan with the mushrooms and a moderate quantity of finely-chopped parsley, season to taste with salt and pepper, and boil gently at the side of the fire for nearly three-quarters of an hour. Heat four eggs well in one-half teacupful of cream, and strain. When the mushrooms are ready, move the stewpan away from the tire, and stir in the beaten Butter some small cups or moulds, fill each with the above mixture and bake- in a brisk own. Prepare some white sauce; when baked turn the mushrooms out of the moulds onto a hot dish, pour the sauce round them, and serve. Baked Stuffed Mushrooms. Choose mushrooms of a medium size, and cut out all the stalks or stems; wash and chop them fine ; mince two shallots, and put them in a stewpan with plenty of butter, and fry; then stir in one tablcspoonful of flour and the minced stalks. Add a moderate quantity of finelv-cliopped parsley, season to taste with r and salt, and stir over the fire lor a few minutes, moistening with a small 4 6o VEGETABLES. quantity of stock. Fill the hollow part of each mushroom with the above mixture; butter a baking-dish, lay the mushrooms side by side in it, the open part uppermost, strew over plenty of finely-grated breadcrumbs and place them in a brisk oven for a quarter of an hour. Arrange the mushrooms carefully on a hot dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with fried parslev, and serve. Boiled Mushrooms in Cream. Peel and trim the required quantity of mushrooms. Put some cream in a pan over the fire, with pepper and salt to taste; as quickly as it comes to the boil, have the mushrooms rubbed with salt and pepper, put them in the cream, and boil for four minutes. Serve very hot. Mushrooms, Bordelaise. Pour oil on a baking sheet, sprinkle it with breadcrumbs and minced parsley, then put in a layer of peeled and cleaned mushrooms, then more oil, parsley and bread- crumbs, next more mushrooms and finally oil, parsley, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper to taste. Place the dish in a moderate oven, bake the mushrooms for thirty minutes or so, and serve hot. Broiled Mushrooms on Toast. Trim off the stalks of the required quantity of large mushrooms, peel, score them once across the top, place them on a gridiron and grill over a slow fire, turning when done on one side. Cut some slices of bread, trim off the crusts and toast them nicelv on both sides. Cut some rounds out of the slices of toast the same size as the mush- rooms, butter them and place a mushroom on each. Put a lump of butter in each mushroom and sprinkle over salt and pepper. Spread a fancy-edged dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the toasts neatly on it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve at once. Croustades of Mushrooms. Peel and chop an onion very fine, place it in a fryingpan with a little butter and fry to a light golden color. Stir often, add four or five ounces of finely-chopped mushrooms, and simmer gently until they are about three-fourths done. Put two soaked anchovies in a mortar and pound them, adding gradually one teaspoonful of mustard and three tablcspoonfuls of brown sauce; put this in with the mushrooms and boil for two or three minutes longer or until they are done. Have prepared some croustadc cases, fill them up with the mixture, and serve at once. Deviled Mushrooms. Cut off the stalks even with the head, and peel and trim the mushrooms neatly. Brush them over inside with a paste-brush dipped in warm butter, and season with VEGETABLES. 461 salt and pepper, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Put them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire. When cooked, put the mushrooms on a hot dish, and serve. Fricassee of Mushrooms. Select some large mushrooms, peel, put them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil until the outsides are brown. Then put them into a stewpan with a small quantity of milk, stew for ten minutes, and add two or three tablespoonfuls each of white wine and browning, thicken with a liaison of flour and butter, turn out the whole on a hot dish, and serve with croutons of fried bread. Fried Mushrooms on Toast. Trim off the stems, and remove the skins from some very large mushrooms, chop very fine and put them into a stewpan with a good-sized lump of butter, season to taste with salt, pepper and pounded mace, and a little cayenne, and toss them about over the fire. Cut two or three slices of bread and toast them a delicate brown on both sides ; butter while hot, cut into quarters, put them on a hot dish, cover with the mushrooms, and serve. Mushrooms in Cases. Peel and chop some large mushrooms, mix with them one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a little finely-chopped shallot and season witli salt and pepper. Butter the interior of some small paper cases, fill them with the mushroom mixture and bake in a brisk oven. Mushroom Patties. Butter and line sonic small patty-pans with good paste, fill them with uncooked rice, and bake. Trim some button-mushrooms, drain, and chop them; then put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and toss about until they are fried. Thicken one cupful of cold water with a little flour, pour it over the mushrooms, add a table- spoonful of cream, and a few drops of broth, season with salt and pepper, and a little lemon juice. Stir with a wooden spoon and boil for a few minutes. When cooked, turn the rice out of the patties, and fill with the above mixture. Mushroom Pie. Peel and cut in quarters some mushrooms, also peel some potatoes; butter a pie-dish, put in a layer of potatoes, then a layer of mushrooms, another of potatoes, and so on until they are all used, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper and butter. Cover the pie with a crust and bake in a moderate oven. Put the trimmings of the mushrooms in a small quantity of gravy and boil for several minutes, then strain the liquid and season with salt and pepper. When the pie is cooked make a small incision in the top and pour in the gravy. 462 VEGETABLES. Mushroom Puree. Remove the stalks and skins from some mushrooms, chop, put in a pan with some milk and simmer for ten minutes. Add the crumb of a French roll and stir till the moisture has evaporated. Add butter, salt and pepper, and rub through a sieve. Mushrooms Sauted. Pick some mushrooms and put them in a basin of water with the juice of a lemon or some vinegar. Take out and dry on a cloth, melt a lump of butter in a sautepan, put in the mushrooms, with salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity of nutmeg; toss over the fire until cooked. Mushrooms Sauted, Bordelaise Style. Select the largest, dryest and thickest mushrooms, pare, wash, dry and cut into lozenge shape, place them in an earthenware dish, sprinkle over one tablcspoonful of sweet oil, a little salt and twelve whole peppers, and leave them in the marinade for two hours. Take them out, stew for six minutes; when done place on a dish. Put three tablcspoonfuls of oil in a stewpan with one tcaspoonful of parsley, anchovies, and a clove of crushed garlic, heat for five minutes, add to the mushrooms, and serve. Stewed Mushrooms. Peel and remove the stalks from some large mushrooms, wash and cut them into halves, put two ounces of butter into a small lined saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir this over the fire; then mix in by degrees about one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of milk, and when boiling and thickened put in the mushrooms. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a small quantity of powdered mace, and stew them gently at the side of the fire until tender. When cooked turn the mushrooms onto a hot dish, garnish with some croutons of bread that have been fried a nice brown, and serve. Stewed Mushroom Stems. Cut into fairly-sized pieces the stems of mushrooms which have been used either for baking or broiling; put them into a pan over the fire with one heaping tablespoon- ful of butter to one pint of steins, together with a seasoning of salt and pepper, and stew gently until they are tender. Have ready a slice of toast and serve the mushroom stems on it, or mince and scallop them with an equal quantity of breadcrumbs, a ning oi salt and pepper, and brown them in a hot oven. VEGETABLES. 463 Mushrooms Stewed with Cream. Prepare a pound of mushrooms bv paring off the ends, then clean and wash them well, and if very large cut them in half. Drain and place them in a saucepan with three ounces of butter. Season with salt and pepper and cook for five minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce and half a cupful of sweet cream, cook for four min- utes longer, and serve in a hot dish with eight heart-shaped bread croutons for garnish. Mushrooms Under Glass with Cream. Cut some slices of bread into rounds three-eighths of an inch in thickness, and cut off the stalks from some fresh mushroom heads, and range these on individual dishes and cover with a bell of either glass or silver, and bake in the oven for twenty minutes. With Cream: Fry in butter some turned mushrooms, adding a little fresh cream and seasoning with salt and pepper; cover and simmer until the cream becomes par- tially reduced, then put a slice of bread, prepared as above, on each plate, dress the mushrooms in a pyramid form, pour a portion of the liquid over each, put on the bells and bake in a slack oven for twenty minutes, serving them with the bells on. Okras Sauted, Creole Style. Prepare some okras as for boiled okras. Place in a sautepan one ounce of butter, one medium-sized onion, and a minced medium-sized green pepper, put the pan on the stove for six minutes until the contents are of a golden color, add two raw peeled tomatoes cut in pieces, three tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce and a pinch of salt, a third of a pinch of pepper, and one crushed clove of garlic. Put in the okras, cover with the lid and put on the fire and cook for fifteen minutes. Turn out onto a hot dish, sprinkle over a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and serve. Baked Onions. Put six large onions into a saucepan of water or milk and water in equal propor- tions, add salt and pepper, and boil until tender. When done so they can be easily mashed, work them up with butter into a paste, cover with breadcrumbs and bake in a moderate oven. Or if preferred they may be boiled whole, put into a bakingdish, covered with butter and breadcrumbs, and then baked. Boiled Onions with Cream. Peel twelve medium-sized onions, pare the roots without cutting them, place in a saucepan, cover with salted water, add a bunch of parsley, and boil for forty-five 464 VEGETABLES. minutes. Take them from the saucepan, place them on a dish, cover with two gills of cream sauce mixed with two tablespoonfuls of the broth the onions were cooked in, garnish, and serve. Fried Onions. Peel and slice into even rounds four medium sized onions. Place them first in milk and then in flour, and fry in very hot fat for eight minutes. Remove care- fully, and lay them on a cloth to dry. Place a folded napkin on a dish, lay them on, and serve with a little fried parsley. Glazed Onions. Peel the onions and put them into a saucepan with a little warmed butter, add sugar and salt to taste, and pour over a little stock. Place over a moderate fire and cook slowly until they are quite tender and the outside brown, remove and serve on a dish A little of the liquor thickened with flour may be served as a sauce. Mashed Onions, Brittany Style. Peel and blanch the required quantity of onions, putting them into cold water to cool so that they will retain their color. Drain, put them into a fryingpan with a little butter, sprinkle slightly with salt and sugar, place the pan over a clear fire and fry till they are of a light red color; pour in some Spanish sauce and reduce. Pass the whole through a fine sieve, mix in wit!) it a little warm* butter and meat glaze, and serve Mashed Onions, Soubise Style. Remove the peel from one dozen onions, blanch and drain them, put them into a saucepan with enough chicken broth to cover, and cook slowly until the onions are done, but without allowing them to take color. Pour in one-half pint of bechamel sauce, reduce it, and pass the whole through a fine hair-sieve. Stir in a little butter and chicken glaze, and serve. Steamed Stuffed Onions. Peel eight large onions and boil them for ten minutes, salting slightly. Remove them, drain quite dry, and push out about half the insides. Chop the part taken out very small, together with a little sausage meat, add one teacupful of breadcrumbs, one ind salt and pepper to taste. Put this mixture into the cavity of the onions, piling it a little on the top and bottom so that none shall be left. Arrange them in a deep pan, put it in a steamer over a saucepan of water, and steam for an hour and a half. Put the pan into the oven to brown the tops of the onions, adding one break- fast cupful of gravy to prevent their burning. Arrange them tastefully on a dish, and serve very hot. VEGETABLES. 465 Stewed Onions. Peel and wash twelve onions chopping off the tops and bottoms; cut them in halves, mince them very fine, blanch to give them a sweeter taste and remove the green color, place in a stewpan with a little butter, and cook them. When quite done and all the moisture is evaporated, mix in four tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce 1 sec- Sauces). Sprinkle them over with salt and pepper, rub them through a fine sieve, and keep hot in a saucepan without letting them boil. A small lump of sugar may be added if desired. If a highly-flavored sauce is desired the onions should be put in a stewpan with a little ham, mace and bay leaf and cooked gently for an hour. Stewed Stuffed Onions. Peel and blanch some large onions, drain them perfectly dry, scoop out the in- sides and fill them with chicken forcemeat; put them at the bottom of a deep sauce- pan, cover them over with slices of fat bacon, and sprinkle with salt and sugar. Set the pan over a clear fire and when the onions are quite cooked and tender remove and arrange them on a dish. Reduce the liquor quickly over a hot fire, pour it over the onions, and serve. Baked Stuffed Spanish Onions. Peel six medium-sized Spanish onions, take out the centers with a vegetable scoop, parboil them for three minutes and turn them upside down on a cloth to drain; when drained fill the inside with sausage forcemeat. Line the bottom of a sautcpan with a piece of lard skin and one carrot and one onion both cut up, lav the onions on top, moisten with two gills of broth, and cover with buttered paper; put it in the oven to glaze for forty minutes, taking care to baste frequently. Place the onions on a hot dish, strain the gravy over them, ami serve. Boiled Spanish Onion Take the required number of Spanish onions, place in a saucepan of salted water, boil for thirty minutes, remove, drain and put them into another saucepan with a little butter or dripping; add a little salt and pepper, cover the pan to prevent the .steam escaping, and cook slowly for about three hours. They should be occasionally basted with the dripping and care should be taken that they do not burn in cooking. Fried Spanish Onions. Peel and slice two pounds of Spanish onions, place them in a fryingpan con- taining two heaped tablespoonfuls of butter made smoking hot, season with a table- spoonful of salt and one-fourth saltspoonful of pepper, dust them very lightly with 466 VEGETABLES. cayenne and stir over the fire till they are tender. When done, serve them on toast, pouring over them the gravy they yield in cooking. Boiled Oyster-Plant. Scrape a bunch of tender oyster-plant, putting the roots as they have been scraped in cold water to which a little vinegar has been added. Cut them in pieces, put them in a saucepan of boiling salted water over the fire and boil until tender; then drain, add a tablespoonful of butter, cream enough to cover them and a season- ing of salt and white pepper, and serve as soon as the cream is hot. The cream may be omitted if not desired. Oyster-Plant, Poulette. Scrape a good-sized bunch of fine fresh oyster-plant, plunge it at once into acidulated water, and when well washed, drain and cut it into two-inch pieces; place them in a saucepan and boil in plenty of water, adding a little salt, two tablespoon- fuls of vinegar and the same quantity of diluted flour. Cook until tender, remove, drain well, and serve with a pint of hot poulette sauce poured over them. Fried Oyster-Plant. Cook a bunch of oyster-plant as for Oyster-Plant, Poulette, and when done, put in a dish; add a little salt and pepper and- a tablespoonful of vinegar, dip them well in frying butter, and fry in very hot fat for five minutes, separating the pieces with a spoon. Lift them up with a skimmer, drain on a cloth, sprinkle over them a very little salt, and serve on a folded napkin, decorating with a little fried parsley. Oyster-Plant Sauted. Scrape a large bunch of fine oyster plant, plunge it into cold water containing two tablcspoonfuls of vinegar so as to prevent it turning black, take it from the water, drain and cut it lengthwise into two-inch pieces. Place them in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls each of vinegar and flour, mix well, cover with plenty of cold water, add a handful of salt, cover and let boil slowly for forty minutes. Then drain, put them into a sautepan with one and one-half ounces of butter, and season with a little pepper, the juice of half a lemon, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Heat well for five minutes, stirring occasionally, then place them in a deep hot dish and serve. Baked Parsnips. Peel and wash some large, hollow-crowned parsnips, cut them lengthwise into (piarters, and steam them for one hour. Take them out and place in a baking-dish with a little salt and meat drippings, and bake till nicely browned. Drain, put them on a hot dish, and serve. VEGETABLES. 467 Boiled Parsnips. Rub and wash some parsnips well, but do not scrape them, put them in a sauce- pan with boiling salted water and boil until tender, which will take from one hour to one hour and a half, according to their size. When done rub their skins off with a rough cloth, put them in a hot dish, and serve with butter sauce, seasoned with a little pepper and salt poured over them. Broiled Parsnips. Broil some parsnips, drain them dry on a clean towel, split them into slices one- half inch thick, dip them in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, put them between the bars of a double wire gridiron, broil them brown over a hot fire, and serve immediately. Fried Parsnips. Peel and wash some parsnips, put them in boiling salted water, and boil till tender. Drain and cut the parsnips in thin slices lengthwise, and leave them till cool with a little salt sprinkled over them. Put a breakfast cupful of molasses in a large frvingpan, place it on the fire and let it boil; then put in the slices of parsnips and fry them; when browned on one side turn them and brown the other. Arrange them on a hot dish, and serve. Parsnip Fritters. Peel and boil some parsnips until tender, then drain them thoroughlv, mash them smoothly, mixing in with them two beaten eggs, salt to taste, and sufficient flour to bind them stiffly. Divide and mould the mixture into small round cakes with floured hands. Put a large piece of butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire and let it boil, then put in the cakes, and fry them a light golden brown. Drain, pile them on a hot dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish- paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Mashed Parsnips. Wash and scrape some parsnips, cut them in pieces lengthwise, put them in a saucepan with boiling water, a little salt, and a small lump of dripping, and boil till quite tender; remove, and place them on a colander, drain, and press all the water out of them. Mash them till quite smooth with a wooden spoon, then put them in a saucepan with a tablcspoonful of milk or a small lump of butter, a little salt and pepper and stir over the fire till thoroughly hot again. Turn it into a dish, and serve at once. Potatoes and Onions Sauted. Take an equal amount of small new potatoes and onions of equal size, peel them and place them in a sautepan, with a good sized lump of butter, tossing them over 468 VEGETABLES. the fire for a quarter of an hour being careful they do not burn ; put in water to about half the height of the vegetables, add a little salt and pepper, place the lid over the pan, and stew gently for half an hour; then squeeze in a little lemon juice, turn onto a hot dish, and serve. Potatoes and Parsley. Place in a saucepan of boiling water some well washed and peeled small potatoes, boil for five minutes and then strain off the water, and pour in enough fresh boiling watf r to height of potatoes, add a lump of butter and a little salt and boil them until they become quite tender; then remove them carefullv and put them in a deep dish, keeping them near the fire. Place in the liquor in which the potatoes were boiled a moderate quantity of finely-chopped parsley, boil for a few minutes and until some- what thickly reduced ; then pour the sauce over the potatoes, and serve. Baked Potatoes. Place a pound or two of potatoes as nearly an equal size as possible in a bowl of water and scrub them thoroughly, then take them out and wipe them dry with a cloth, place them in a hot oven, and bake for an hour, when they should be quite soft and mealy; fold them in a napkin spread over a dish, and serve with butter and seasoning. Baked Potatoes with Breadcrumbs. Peel, boil and mash a pound or so of potatoes passing them through a sieve; then pile them upon a dish in the form of a small cone, sprinkle over them some breadcrumbs, and pour over a little warmed butter; put the dish in the oven and allow it to remain there for a few minutes until the breadcrumbs have become well- browned, remove, and serve in the dish in which they are baked. Potato Balls. Mash thoroughly a pound of boiled potatoes and rub them through a wire sieve and mix in with them a quarter of a pound of grated ham, a little chopped parsley and a small onion chopped very fine, together with a small quantity of nutmeg. grated, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Roll this mixture into balls of equal size, flour and egg-breadcrumb them, then fry in dripping or brown them in the oven, serving them on a hot dish. Potatoes, Barigoule. Place in a saucepan with enough broth to cover them ten peeled and washed potatoes and boil them gently until they become quite tender, then drain, takin. not to break them. Next put a teacupful of olive oil into a deep l'r\ ingpan, and VEGETABLES. 469 place over the fire until hot, then put in the potatoes, tossing them gently until they are lightly browned all over. Place them on a dish and sprinkle salt and pepper, and vinegar all over them, serving them hot. Boiled Potatoes. Select a dozen medium-sized potatoes and wash them well, peel off a piece of skin half an inch wide around each potato to insure mealiness, and place them in a saucepan, cover with cold water, adding half a handful of salt; put on the lid and cook for thirty minutes, then drain and lav them on a napkin on a hot hish, and serve. Boiled New Potatoes. Place in a bowl of water a pound or so of new potatoes, scrape off the thin skins and wash them well, and drop them as they are skinned and washed into another bowl of water, letting them remain there for an hour or so. After they have been in the water the requisite time place them in a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, set the pan over the fire and boil them gently from a quarter to half an hour; then drain off the water and let them drain in the saucepan for a few minutes, after which turn them into a vegetable dish, fold them in a napkin, and serve. Potato Borders. These are generally used to form walls for holding different kinds of thick stews, hashes, minces, etc. The potatoes should fust be boiled and then mashed either with or without butter and beaten eggs. If a mould is used it should be well buttered and the potatoes worked up thoroughly into a well-seasoned paste, with two to each pound of potatoes; then press the paste firmlv into the moulds and level off the top with a knife, set in a quick oven for half an hour or only a feu- minutes, according to whether the potato border is desired to be browned or not. Then turn onto a dish. Broiled Potatoes. Peel hall a dozen medium-sized cooked potatoes, halve them and lay upon a dish, seasoning with a pinch of salt, then pour over two tablespoon fuls of melted butter and roll them thoroughly in it. after which arrange them on a double broiler and broil over a moderate fire for three minutes on each side. Serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin. Browned Potatoes. Peel, wash and either boil or steam for three quarters of an hour the desired quantity of potatoes (they should always be boiled or partially boiled before brown- ing), then take them out of the saucepan, drain and place them in a baking-dish with 47 o VEGETABLES. a small quantity of fat or dripping, set the dish in the oven and bake gently for forty minutes, basting frequently. When done and well browned drain off all the fat, place them in a vegetable dish, and serve. Potato Cake. Mash some cold boiled potatoes, dredge over lightly with flour and season well with salt and pepper, adding a little yeast; then mix the potatoes with a little cold milk into a not too thin paste and roll out to a round shape about an inch in thick- ness. Take a fryingpan which will hold the cake nicely, place a lump of butter in it to melt, then put in the cake, covering it with a plate, and cook over a good fire. When one side of the cake is done turn it carefully over, adding a little butter, if necessary, and cook on the other side; drain the cake well and lay it on a fancy dish- paper or folded napkin, spread over a heated dish, garnishing it with fried parsley, and serve. Casserole of Potatoes. Boil a pound or two of potatoes and when well done take them out and mash and make this into a stiff paste by adding a little butter and cream, to- gether with a slight sprinkling of salt, and form it into a casserole; put it on a dish, make an opening in the center, brown it over in the oven,- and serve. Potato Cheese Cakes. Peel and thoroughly wash enough potatoes to weigh about six ounces when boiled, and mash them well In the meantime, put a quarter of a pound of lemon- peel into a saucepan of water and boil until quite tender; remove it and drain and place in a mortar with four ounces of finely-crushed loaf sugar and pound thoroughly. Place this mixture in a basin containing the mashed potatoes and stir them well to- gether, adding four ounces of warmed butter and a little hot cream. Then have in readiness some small pattypans lined with a good puff paste and fill them a trifle more than half with the potato pulp, sprinkle over them a little powdered sugar, place them in a hot oven, and bake for thirty minutes. Take them out, turn the cheese cakes out of the pan and let them get cold, then serve. Chip Potatoes. Wash and peel a dozen or so of rather small potatoes and divide them into pieces resembling a section of an orange and place them in a basin of water; then remove, dry them on a cloth, put them in a fryingpan with melted fat to a trifle more than half their height and allow them to fry until they are partly done and com- mence to float; then skim out the potatoes and set the pan over a fiercer fire, and when the fat becomes smoking hot, again place the potatoes in it and fry until the VEGETABLES. 47 , pieces blow themselves out and are quite brown; then take them out, drain off all the liquor, dust over with salt, and serve in a vegetable dish. Creamed Potatoes. Cut into cubes or dice about half a pound of cold boiled potatoes and place them in a shallow bakingpan, pouring over them sufficient milk or cream to cover them, put the pan in the oven or on the side of the fire and cook gently until nearly all the milk is absorbed; then add a tablespoonful of butter a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped parsley and salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper mixed well to- gether. When they have become thoroughly warmed, turn them into a dish, and serve at once. Potato Croquettes. Take four mealy boiled potatoes of good size and add to them half their weight of butter, the same quantity of powdered white sugar, and place them in a mortar, pounding them well together with a little salt, the grated peel of half a lemon and two beaten eggs. Then beat up the yolks of four eggs, roll up the paste in the mor- tar into cork-shaped pieces, and dip them into the beaten yolk, rolling them in sifted breadcrumbs, and let them stand for an hour, then dip them in beaten egg or brush it over them, and roll once again in the breadcrumbs. Fry in boiling lard or butter, after which lay them on paper to drain, and arrange them on ornamental paper, spread over a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve. Potato Croustade. Place a pound of boiled potato pulp in a bowl, mash it very smooth and per- fectly dry; add the yolks of a couple of eggs and set the bowl over the fire, stirring it until it again becomes dry. Form it into a case or shell and brush it over with the yolk of egg, place in an oven and bake to a light brown; then remove and it is read) for use. In the meantime pour one gill of white sauce into a saucepan and mix in with it a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, with half that quantity of essence of anchovies, and the meat of a lobster, or half a can of lobster; set the pan at the side of the fire and heat well without letting it boil. Pour this sauce, which should be thick, into the potato case, and serve. Curried Potatoes. Cut into slices a pound or two of cold boiled potatoes, peel and slice a couple of onions, and place the onions in a stewpan with a good-sized lump of fat and fry them until they begin to brown, then place the potatoes in with and dust over with a couple of spoonfuls of curry powder, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper; squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and moisten with a small quantity of clear stock, and toss over the fire for seven or eight minutes; turn the curry onto a hot dish, and serve. 4-2 VEGETABLES. Potatoes, Duchess. Select some nice mealy potatoes and beat them to a flour with a fork, not pound- ing them, but whipping them lightly while they are hot; have ready a couple of eggs well beaten, the whites and yolks separately, the whites being beaten to a stiff froth; beat in the yolks lightly to the mashed potatoes, together with salt and pepper to taste, a tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of cream, whip all together until creamy, and then lightly and quickly whip in the frothed whites. Place this mixture in a saucepan over the fire and stir well together until thoroughly hot. Potatoes for Entrees. Remove all of the inside from half a dozen baked potatoes, work in with it a little butter, salt and breadcrumbs and chopped parsley; beat well with a fork and work in one egg; then boil some oyster-plant until it is tender, pass it through a fine sieve, mix it with a little cream, and season to taste. Half fill some well-buttered eggcups with the potato mixture, put a teaspoonful of the oyster-plant cream over and fill up with more of the potato mixture, after which turn them out, brush them over with egg, dust with breadcrumbs and plunge them into a pan of boiling fat and fry. Take them out, drain and serve while hot with a cream sauce poured around or separately in a sauceboat. Fried Potatoes. Peel and wash well a half dozen good-sized potatoes and slice them to a quarter of an inch in thickness, place them in hot clarified beef-suet or fat and cook slowly. When they become quite soft turn them out onto a skimmer; ten minutes is usuallv sufficient time. Then the fat should be heated again to the boiling point, put in the potatoes once more and smooth them down with the skimmer; after the lapse of a couple of minutes they will swell up considerably; then lift them out, drain and sprin- kle over a pinch of salt. Serve on a heated dish with a folded napkin. Gastronomical Potatoes. Cut with a tube-cutter twelve medium-sized potatoes which have been peeled and well-washed into pieces about an inch and a half long, place them in a saucepan and cover with water, adding a pinch of salt and cook for twenty minutes; then drain them and place on a hot dish, pouring over a gill of hot pcrigueux sauce, and serve. Potatoes, Genevoise Style. Cut into shreds four medium-sized potatoes after they have been peeled, washed and thoroughly drained; then season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Butter lightly half a dozen tartlet moulds with clarified butter, cover the bottoms with VEGETABLES. 473 grated 1'armcsan cheese and arrange a layer of potatoes on top, sprinkle more of the cheese over them, and continue on in this manner until the moulds are filled, and drop a little clarified butter over all. Place them in a very hot stove for a few min- utes and then put them into a hot oven and bake for twenty-five minutes, after which turn then out, place on a hot dish on a folded napkin, and serve. Glazed Potatoes. Take a pound or so of good potatoes, boil and skin them and roll them in the yolk of egg; then brown them in the oven, and serve hot. Potatoes in Cases. Wash thoroughly eight or nine potatoes (good-sized ones and mealy), and place them in a quick oven to bake; then take them out and cut off a round of the peel the size of a fifty-cent piece from the end of them and carefully scoop out all the in- side pulp; mash this and pass it through a fine sieve into a saucepan, mixing in a breakfast cupful of cream and milk in equal proportions and a ounce and a half of warmed butter; place the pan over a slow fire and boil gently, adding a little at a time the whites of a couple of eggs whipped to a froth. Fill up the potato skins with this preparation and put them in the oven until they have become thoroughly warmed, then place them in paper cases, arranged on a napkin on a dish, and serve. Potatoes in the Oven. Place in a saucepan some well-washed potatoes, with their skins on, together with enough water to cover them, and boil well; then peel and mash them; spread a layer of the potatoes in a baking-dish, grate some Parmesan cheese over, and add a few lumps of butter; use up the remaining quantity of potatoes in the same man- ner, finish with a layer of the grated Parmesan cheese and butter; brown in the oven, and serve while hot. Potatoes, Julienne Style. Some peeled potatoes of medium-size should be cut into slices crosswise with a fluted vegetable knife, then fried in plenty of smoking hot fat, serving them while hot. Potatoes, Loulou. Chop fine, wash well and wipe on a cloth some raw potatoes, and place them in a saucepan with some butter, season and cook them very slowly while covered, tossing them frequently, and when they become soft, beat them up and dress in layers in a vegetable dish, strewing over them a little grated Parmesan cheese, pour over them some melted butter, and bake for half an hour in a slack oven. 474 VEGETABLES. Potatoes, Lyonnese. Cut into round slices eight boiled potatoes, and lay them into a fryingpan with an ounce and a half of butter and the round slices of a fried onion, seasoning with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook for six minutes, until they become well browned, tossing them all the while, and serve with a Small quantity of chopped parsley sprinkled over. Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel. Peel and boil some carefully selected potatoes, taking care not to boil too long; then drain them and let them become cold, after which they are to be cut into rather thick slices. Place in a flat stewpan a good-sized lump of butter and dredge in a half tablespoonful of flour, stir until well dissolved and melted; then mix in gradu- ally a breakfast cupful of broth and stir continually until boiling; then place the pota- toes in with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, with pepper and salt to the taste. Stew them for two or three minutes, move the pan to the edge of the fire and stir in quickly the yolk of an egg previously well beaten with a teaspoonful of cold water and a very small amount of strained lemon juice. When the egg has become thick- ened turn the potatoes together with their sauce on to a flat dish, and serve. Mashed Potatoes. Peel and wash the potatoes and put them in a bowl of cold water and let them soak there for an hour or so and then put them into a saucepan with enough salted water to cover and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. When they are done drain off all the water and put the potatoes into a large mortar or bowl and pound them well. To each pound of pulp add two ounces of butter to a teacupful of milk in a saucepan and warm it over the fire, then stir in the mashed potatoes, using care not to get them too wet; place the potatoes after they have been well mashed into a vegetable dish, mark it over with a fork and brown it in the oven or with a salaman- der, and serve. Potato Nests. Wash well and then bake in an oven some carefully selected potatoes of equal si/.c and when tender cut a slice off the top of each and carefully scoop out some of the interior. Rub through a fine sieve the potato which has been scooped out and mix with it an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of cream, with salt and pepper to taste. Put the whole in a stewpan and stir it well over a fire; when it has become hot move it to one side and stir in the beaten whites of one or two eggs; fill the potato skins with this preparation and brush them over with a brush dipped in warmed butter. Serve on a folded napkin placed on a hot dish garnished with tried parsle) VEGETABLES. 475 Potatoes Provincial. Trim into the shape of corks some raw potatoes, and cut them across into three- sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and wipe them perfectly dry. Then saute slowly in oil, and allow plenty of time for cooking; after which, add a little garlic and onion chopped very fine, salt and finish them in the oven just previous to serving, and drain off the butter and sprinkle over chopped parsley and lemon juice. Potato Quenelles. Mash one pound of dry floury potatoes while they are still hot, mix with them two ounces of butter, a seasoning of salt and black pepper, three tablespoonfuls of cream, a little chopped parsley, a small quantity of finely-minced ham, and the beaten yolks of four eggs; when well mixed, beat in the thoroughly whisked whites of four eggs, and shape the preparation into quenelles, with two teaspoons, then drop them into boiling butter, and fry for five minutes. Drain them on paper, and serve on a napkin quite hot. Potato Rissoles. Mash the desired quantity of cold boiled potatoes with a lump of butter, and one or two well-beaten eggs, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper; mould the mixture into small egg-shaped balls, and roll them in grated breadcrumb, then in beaten egg, and in the breadcrumb again. Next place a large lump of good beef-dripping in a flat stewpan over the fire, and let it remain there until the blue smoke rises, then put in the rissoles, and fry them until they become of a bright golden brown on all sides; alter which, drain them for a few minutes on a sheet of kitchen-paper in front of the fire, and then pile them on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper; garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Potatoes, Sarah. Cut some raw potatoes with a sharp knife into the form of corkscrews and fry till half done in not too hot fat, then drain and place them in a sautoir with some clarified butter and finish the cooking. Season with salt and chopped parsley and lemon juice. Sauted Potato. Cut up into slices eight medium-sized cold boiled potatoes, place an ounce and a half of butter in a fryingpan and add the potatoes, seasoning with half a pinch of salt and pepper, and toss them well in the pan for a couple of minutes, after which form them into the shape of an omelet and allow them to become of a golden color, which will require about five minutes' time. With a spoon take up all the butter lying at the bottom of the pan, and slide the potatoes onto a hot dish, and serve. 476 VEGETABLES. Stewed Potatoes. Place half a pound of raw potatoes cut into small pieces in a saucepan over the fire, together with two ounces of butter, a medium-sized onion peeled and chopped, a teaspoonful of common salt and celery salt mixed, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley and three tablespoonfuls of water; simmer gently until the potatoes are soft, then add a quarter of a pint of milk and a tablespoonful of flour blended smooth with a tablespoonful of vinegar; stir thoroughly for ten minutes or till boiling. Potato Straws. Wash a pint of potatoes, peeling them very thin, siice to about a quarter of an inch in thickness and place them in boiling salted water, and boil until they are tender, say about ten minutes or so. Turn them into a colander with good-sized holes and let the water drain off until the potatoes have become quite dry, sprinkle over a tea- spoonful of salt and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, hold the colandei over one- end of a large dish as the potatoes are pressed through it, so that the potatoes may fall in rows, moving the colander from one side to the other. Wipe the edges of the dish with a clean towel, set it in the oven for two or three minutes to heat the pota- toes thoroughly, and serve. Surprise Potatoes. Bone a dozen small birds and stuff them with sausage meat; then select twelve large potatees of equal size, wash them well, leaving the skins* on, cut a piece off the top of each potato and scoop out the inside. Put a bird in each potato. Then make a stiff paste of flour and white of egg and use it to stick on the tops of the potatoes; lav them on a baking-tin and bake in a brisk oven for about three-quarters of an hour. Arrange them on a hot dish previously covered with a dish-paper or folded napkin, and serve. Potatoes Waldorf. Peel and wash some potatoes and then cut them round and round in curls in the same manner in which apples are peeled; place two flat stewpans over the fire with an equal quantity of lard in each; when boiling throw in the pieces in one of the pans and fry until just commencing to color, then remove quickly with a drainer and throw into the second pan of boiling lard; when they have become nicely browned and soft take the potatoes out of the fat, drain them for a minute or two on kitchen paper at the front of the fire; spread a folded napkin over a hot dish, pile on the potatoes, dredging a small quantity of salt over them, and serve while hot. Broiled Sweet Potatoes. Take some peeled sweet potatoes which have been strain-boiled and slice them three-eighths of an inch thick, trim them to olive-shaped pieces ;\\\t\ place them VEGETABLES. 477 in a double broiler, salt them well and coat with some melted butter, then broil them over a slow fire. When done, serve inside a folded napkin. Roasted Sweet Potatoes. After washing them thoroughly cut off both ends, pare them into olive-shaped pieces, put a lump of butter in a bakingpan and put the potatoes in with it and roast in a moderate oven for about half an hour. Serve on a folded napkin. Sweet Potatoes Souffled. Slice some sweet potatoes to quarter-inch widths and fry them slowly in white fat in order that they may cook without coloring or stiffening. Drain them well for ten minutes and then return to the hot fat, when they should puff up considerably. Sweet Potato Waffles. Mix to a smooth batter half a breakfast cupful of sweet potatoes well boiled and mashed, together with four tablespoonfuls of flour and one each of butter and sugar, a saltspoonful of salt and a pint of milk. Bake the batter immediately in a hot waffle-iron, or, if desired, they may be baked on a griddle in the form of cakes. Pumpkin Fritters. Trim off both the ends of some long, but not too large oval pumpkins, cut them into long square fingers, place them in a dish, sprinkle salt over them and them for ten minutes; shake the dish once or twice during the time. Drain the pieces, wipe them on a cloth and rub them over quickly with flour. Put some drip- ping in a fryingpan, and when hot put in the pieces and fry them. When cooked, drain and dust over with salt. Serve them in a hot dish. Mashed Pumpkin. Pare off the rind of a large slice of pumpkin, remove the seeds and cut it into squares; place the pieces of pumpkin in a stewpan with a large lump of butter and a small quantity of water, season to taste with pepper and salt and stew over a gentle fire until cjuite soft. Mash the pumpkin with a wooden spoon and pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Put one ounce of butter in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour, mix it over the fire, and then stir in the pumpkin pulp, moistening with a little milk and seasoning with grated nutmeg. Stir the whole over the fire until very hot, then pile it on a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread, and serve. Stewed Pumpkin. Peel and remove the seeds from a pumpkin, and partially boil it, drain it well, wipe on a cloth, and cut it into small pieces. Put about three ounces of butter into 478 VEGETABLES. a stewpan to melt and then put in the pieces of pumpkin; season to taste with pepper, salt and a little grated nutmeg, and toss them over the fire until quite soft. Butter a dish that will stand the heat of the oven, and at the same time can be served on the table; turn the pumpkin mixture on to it, sprinkle over it plenty of grated Parmesan cheese and a few grated breadcrumbs, and stand the dish in a brisk oven for ten minutes, or until browned over the top. Serve in the same dish the pumpkins while hot. Lean Sorrel. Remove the stems from four pints of sorrel, wash it well in several waters, drain and chop it up with a well-cleaned head of lettuce; then add half a bunch of chervil and chop all together very finely. Place all in a stewpan, stir well on a hot stove for three or four minutes, and set in the oven until the vegetables are tender; then add one and one-half ounce of butter and stir again for about ten minutes, or until the sorrel is reduced to a pulp. Season with one pinch of salt and a little pepper, pour into it a thickening of the volks of two eggs, and one-half breakfast cupful of cream, stir well without boiling, and serve. Puree of Sorrel with Hard-Boiled Eggs. Wash well and boil the sorrel, changing the water twice during the operation. When cooked drain the sorrel and chop it, pass it through a fine hair-sieve into a saucepan, mix with it a little milk and flour, season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it simmer by the side of the fire for twenty minutes. Mix a lump of butter with the sorrel, turn it onto a hot dish, garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs, and serve. Stewed Sorrel. Place some sorrel that has been washed in several waters in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and stir it over the fire until it has melted. Drain the sorrel, chop it fine with some trimmings of mushrooms, put the mixture into a stewpan with some small pieces of ham and a lump of butter and fry it. Next mix in one teacupful of Spanish sauce, and allow it to stew gently by the side of the fire for an hour. Pass the puree through a fine hair-sieve, and pour it into the saucepan again with a little stock broth, one teaspoonful of sugar and a small quantity of glaze. Sourcrout. (Fr. Choucroute; Ger. Sauerkraut). This is a variety of pickled cabbage clear to many of our traveling classes, Sourcrout has been pronounced very wholesome by experienced chemists. It may be made and prepared for the table in several ways. The following are among the best methods of preparation: (l.) Shred fine some white hearted cabbages, put them in a jar. and sprinkle over them one handful of salt, one-half tablespoonful of cream of tartar, ami a little VEGETABLES. 479 water. Put sonic of the big outside leaves of the cabbage on the top, place a cover on the jar with a weight on it, and k f :ep it in a warm temperature. In a week or two the sourcrout will be ready for use. Boiled Sourcrout. To prepare the sourcrout for boiling soak it in plenty of cold water until it is only palatably salty, put it over the fire in a saucepan of boiling water, or in the same pot in which bacon, pickled pork, or smoked sausages are boiling, and boil until it is ten- der. To serve the sourcrout drain it, put it on a dish, lay the meat on it, and serve them together. When it is cooked without meat it is simply served as a vegetable. When cold it may be chopped and fried in butter, or heated in white sauce or some gravy. Sourcrout with Apples. Shred fine some white-hearted cabbages, peel about half the quantity of apples and slice them thin. Rub the inside of a saucepan over with butter. Tut at the bottom a slice of fat bacon, then a layer of the cabbage, a small piece of butter, four or five slices of lemon, a little ground mace and pepper, two or three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, then the apples, some slices of ham and more cabbage in alternate layers. When the stewpan is full place a layer of veal fat on the top and bake all in a moder- ate oven for three hours. Serve on a hot dish. Sourcrout with Goose, Roumanian. Draw and wash a fat goose and season the interior of it with pepper and salt and any other kind of seasoning desired. Cut one or two cabbages into very thin shreds, and mix eighteen or twenty peppercorns with them. Tut it into a baking-dish and place the goose on the top. Bake it in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with butter. When cooked place the goose on a hot dish, garnish it with the sourcrout, and serve with a sauceboatful of good gravy. Sourcrout with Pork and Sausages. Wash well three pints of sourcrout in several waters, drain and put it into a sauce- pan with a large piece of well-washed salt pork, two carrots, three smoked sau two whole onions, one whole breakfast cupful of roast meat fat, half a dozen juniper berries, one wine-glassful of white wine and one pint of white broth. Let it cook slowly for three hours; drain the sourcrout and dish it up with the pork on top; the pork may either be served in one piece or divided into five or six slices, arranging the sausages around. Spinach. There are several varieties of spinach (sometimes spelled spinage) cultivated in this country, the chief of which are the summer and winter kinds; the former is 4 8o VEGETABLES. known as the round-seeded or summer spinach, and the latter as the prickly or winter spinach. The leaves are fleshy and succulent, and when thoroughly washed by pass- ing through several lots of fresh water, they may be cooked or prepared according to the following recipes. The juice of the leaves is used to color confectionery. Blanch a peck of well-washed spinach and drain it; put it into a saucepan with one-half breakfast cupful of veal stock, and cook for ten minutes. When readv to serve, add one ounce of butter, melt well together, and serve with croutons of fried bread. Spinach a la Mode. Blanch one peck of spinach, cutting off the stocks and washing it well, chop fine, and put it into a saucepan with one ounce of butter and a little grated nutmeg. Stir with a wooden spoon, and cook for five minutes, adding one ounce of butter kneaded with two tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one-half pint of milk. Stir often and cook for ten minutes; then serve, garnished with half a dozen sippets of bread fried in butter. Spinach Croustades. Cut some heart-shaped bread croustades, fry them until well browned, then scoop out the crumb from their middle. Prepare some spinach as for spinach with cream, and when ready fill the croustades with it. Minced Spinach. Boil the spinach in plenty of salted water. When cooked, drain off all the water, chop the spinach very fine and season well with salt and pepper. For each pint of minced spinach put one tablespoonful of butter and one-half tablespoonful of flour into a saucepan and stir it over the fire until smooth and cooked. Put the spinach in with the cooked flour before it has become brown, adding for each pint one-half tea- cupful of milk and stirring it for a few minutes longer. Put the spinach into a basin, then turn it out in shape onto a hot dish. Put a' circle of hard-boiled eggs on the top of the spinach and another circle of sliced eggs at the bottom, and serve. Spinach with Cream. Pick and wash the spinach well, boiling it in plenty of salted water; when tender, drain and put it in cold water for a few minutes. Press all the moisture out of the spinach and put it into a saucepan with a little butter and stir over the fire until dry. Dredge a little flour over the spinach, pour in one-fourth pint of boiling cream and season with a little grated nutmeg, sugar and salt. Turn it onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. VEGETABLES. 4 8i Boiled Squash. Peel a large winter or summer squash, or a couple of small ones, cut them into pieces about one-inch square, place them over the fire in a saucepan of boiling salted water, and boil until tender. Meanwhile, for three pints of squash, mix together in a stewpan over the fire one tablespoonful each of flour and butter and stir them until they are brown; gradually add one pint of boiling water and a high seasoning of pep- per and salt, and when it boils, set it aside until the squash is done. After the squash is drained from the water in which it was boiled, put it into the hot brown sauce and serve it without delay; or simply mash the boiled squash through a colan- der, beat it together with salt, pepper and butter, and serve. Mashed Squash. Wash the squashes and cut them into small pieces without removing the skin and seeds. Place them in a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt and boil until soft, which will take in the neighborhood of half an hour. Then turn the squash into a cloth, mash it, and squeeze it until the moisture is extracted. Return the squash to the saucepan with one-half teacupful of cream for each pint, season it to taste with pepper and salt, and stir it over the fire until it is thoroughly hot. Then turn it onto a hot dish, and serve. Stewed Squash. Peel a squash, cut it into small pieces and boil it in salted water until tender. Drain, put it into a clean towel and wring out all the water; put it again into a sauce- pan over the fire with two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter and a seasoning of salt and pepper, stir until it is hot, and then serve. Succotash. Place six medium-sized freshly cooked and scraped cars of Indian corn (or a can of canned corn will do) in a saucepan with a pint of Lima beans, adding about one- ounce of butter, a pinch of salt and a little pepper and grated nutmeg, also one-half pint of milk. Heat it thoroughly for five minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of hot bechamel sauce, stir all well together, and serve. Sweet Peppers Sauted. Place the sweet peppers in boiling water in order to facilitate the removal of the skin and divide each one in two, cutting away all the hard portions, and saute gradu- ally in oil while cooking; then season with salt, some finely-chopped shallot and parsley; dress on a vegetable dish, and serve. 482 " , VEGETABLES. Tomatoes, Andalusian Style. Boil together in a saucepan one pint of tomato sauce and three pints of con- somme. Add one-half tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper, then put in two teaspoonfuls of tapioca, stirring- well all the time. Cook for fifteen minutes, add twelve or fourteen chicken quenelles, and then serve. Tomatoes and Eggs. Put half a dozen ripe tomatoes into a saucepan with a very little water to pre- vent their burning and boil them; rub them through a fine sieve and mix in a little chopped onion, salt and pepper to taste, and two or three eggs. Turn the mixture into a fryingpan with a small quantity of butter, fry until done and serve on a dish. Finelv-chopped ham may be added if desired. Baked Tomatoes. Cut some ripe tomatoes in halves, put them in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with plenty of sifted breadcrumbs, pepper and salt to taste, stick small bits of butter over the top and bake them until the tops are slightly browned. Tomatoes, Bock Style. Wipe and peel eight fine, fresh, ripe tomatoes. Cut each one into six equal- sized pieces, and place them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, season with one pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper, and one-third of a pinch of grated nut- meg. Cover the pan and place it on a hot stove to cook the contents for fifteen minutes or so. Remove from the fire, pour the tomatoes into a deep, hot vegetable dish, and send them to the table very hot. Broiled Tomatoes. Carefully remove the skin from some good sound tomatoes, and to facilitate this they should be placed for a short time in boiling water, cut them across in two, sea- soning with a little salt and pour some oil over. Next put them on a hinged double broiler and broil them over a slow fire, basting them at frequent intervals with oil. When done dress them on a hot dish. Deviled Tomatoes. Mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, mix with them one saltspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful each of powdered sugar and made mustard, and as much ea\ enne pepper as will lav on a five-cent piece, and rub in three ounces of butter, warmed until it is very soft. When these are well mixed stir in by degrees three tablespoon- VEGETABLES. 483 fuls of vinegar, put the mixture into a pan over the fire, and let it get almost boiling hot; remove it from the fire and stir in two well-beaten eggs, return it to the fire and stir it until it begins to thicken; then stand in hot water on the stove to keep warm. Take about one quart of firm ripe tomatoes, cut them into slices not quite one-half inch thick, broil them over a clear fire, place them on a hot chafing-dish, pour the hot sauce over them, and serve. Fried Tomatoes. Cut six or eight large tomatoes into thick slices, dip them in egg well beaten, with a seasoning of salt, pepper and sugar, and cover them with bread or cracker- crumbs. Melt two tablcspoonfuls of butter in a frvingpan, cover the bottom of the pan with slices of tomatoes and fry them for about ten minutes, turning them so as to cook both sides equally. Place them on pieces of toast, spread on a dish, and serve. Tomatoes, Marseilles Style. Select six good-sized firm tomatoes, wipe and cut them into halves through the Pour one-half gill of sweet oil into a frvingpan, let it heat well, lay in the toma- toes on the sides which were cut, and cook briskly for one minute. Butter well a tin baking-dish, lay the tomatoes in this on the uncooked sides, and season with one-half pinch each of pepper and salt. Make a stuffing with finely-chopped shallot, two cloves of crushed garlic, one teaspoont'ul of chopped chives, two hard-boiled eggs, one tea- spoonful of parsley, two finely-chopped anchovies, and one ounce of butter. Stir well together in a bowl and cover the tops of the tomatoes with the stuffing, dividing it equally. Dust with a little fresh breadcrumbs, drop three or four drops of warmed butter over each tomato, and bake in a very hot oven for eight minutes. Tomatoes on Toast. Cut the tomatoes in halves, sprinkle them over with salt and pepper, place them on a baking-dish, the cut side upwards, and bake in a hot oven. Cut as many rounds oi bread as there are halves of tomatoes, toast them a nice golden-brown on both Sides, and butter them while hot. When the tomatoes are cooked place a half on each round of toast. Spread a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish it with fried parsley, and serve. Tomato Pilau. Put one and one-half pounds of ripe tomatoes into a mortar and press them to extract their juice, which strain through a fine hair-sieve; then pour it into a saucepan with an equal quantity of broth. Peel and chop fine two onions, put them into a Iryingpan with a lump of butter, and fry until well browned. Drain the onions, put them in with the tomato juice, add a pinch of salt, and place the saucepan over the 484 VEGETABLES. fire. When the liquor boils put in one pound of well-washed rice, and allow it to sim- mer at the side of the fire until the moisture is absorbed. Heat four ounces of butter, stir it in with the rice; put the lid on the saucepan again, and let it stand on the stove for twenty minutes. Turn the pilau onto a hot dish, sprinkle over a little pepper, and serve while very hot. Stewed Tomatoes. Scald and peel the required quantity of tomatoes, cut them into halves or quar- ters, place them in a lined saucepan, and stew them for a quarter of an hour, when the juice will be partly boiled away. If desired the tomatoes may be thickened with a little cornstarch, moistened with cold water or with cracker or breadcrumbs. Turn the stew out onto a dish, sprinkle over with salt and pepper to taste, place a few lumps of butter on the top, let it melt, and then serve. A little sugar may also be sprinkled over if desired. Stewed Tomatoes (Sweet). Scald and peel a dozen or so of ripe tomatoes, place them in a baking-dish and cover with sugar; put the dish in a hot oven and bake the contents until the sugar has melted and dried down to a syrup. Take them out, and serve. Stuffed Tomatoes. Wipe four large tomatoes with a soft cloth, cut a small round off the top of each one with a sharp knife, and scoop out as much of the inside as can be removed without spilling the shape of the tomato. Mix with the scooped out center of the tomatoes about one-fourth pound of finely-minced ham, one teaspoonful of sugar, three small onions, chopping the latter very fine, a dessertspoonful of vinegar, a sprig of thyme and a seasoning of salt, cayenne and pepper. Put all these together into a small fryingpan over the fire, and stir the mixture until the liquid is somewhat reduced — about ten or fifteen minutes will be long enough. Then pass it through a fine sieve, and fill the emptied tomatoes with it. Bake them for a short time in a hot oven. Lav a small piece of butter on top of the mixture in each tomato when they are placed in the oven. Serve them very hot on the dish in which they were baked. Tomatoes with Sago. Boil one pint of tomatoes and three pints of consomme in a saucepan for ten minutes, seasoning with one-half pinch each of salt and pepper ; add two tablespoon- fuls of sago, cook again for fifteen minutes, stirring gently, and serve. Tomatoes with Spaghetti. Tour into a saucepan one pint each of tomato sauce and white broth, and season with one teaspoonful each of salt and pepper. Let it boil well for ten minutes, then VEGETABLES. 485 throw in one-half pint of cooked spaghetti, cut about three-fourths of an inch in length ; cook again for five minutes, tossing them well meanwhile, and serve very hot. Glazed Turnips. Peel some turnips and cut them into the shapes of small pears; put them in a saucepan with some water and a small quantity of salt, and boil them for ten minutes. Turn them on a sieve and leave them until thoroughly drained. Melt about one ounce of butter in a saucepan, put in the turnips, strew in plenty of powdered sugar, and toss them about over the fire until they begin to color. Moisten them with a small quantity of broth, season with salt, pepper, and a little ground cin- namon, and boil them gently until tender. When cooked pile the turnips on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Turnips in Batter. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a stewpan and place it over the fire; when it has melted stir in one tablcspoonful of flour and one pint of milk. Season with salt, pepper and a small quantity of sugar, and continue stirring it over the fire until it thickens; then put in one breakfast cupful of boiled turnips, continue stirring the mixture over the fire, and boil it for ten minutes. Cut two slices of bread, trim the crusts and toast them nicely. Butter the toast, cut each piece into quarters, and place them on a hot dish; pour the turnip mixture over them, and serve immediately. Mashed Turnips. Peel the turnips, wash them, cut them into thin slices, put them in a steamer Over a saucepan of boiling water and steam them for about an hour, or until they are quite tender; then mash tliein with a small quantity of milk, seasoning with salt and pepper. Stewed Turnips with Sugar. Procure a number of voung turnips as nearly of one size as possible, put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter and fry them until they are well browned. Sprinkle some powdered sugar over them, season with a small quantity of salt, pour in one teacupful of stock more or less according to the quantity of the turnips, place the cover on the saucepan, and let them simmer gently until they are tender. When cooked turn the turnips onto a hot dish, and serve. Stuffed Turnips. Choose turnips all of one size, peel them, cut off the tops and scoop out their insides. Chop fine two onions and enough mutton to fill the turnips, stir in with it two tablespoonfula of well-washed rice, one tablcspoonful of chopped parsley and a small quantity each of salt and pepper. Mix all these items together well. Stuff the 4 86 VEGETABLES. turnips with the mixture, replace their tops, thus forming lids, place them in a sauce- pan, moisten to their height with broth, put in a small lump of salt and stew them gently till tender. Pour in one wineglassful of malt vinegar and one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and finish cooking them. Arrange the turnips tastefully in a group in the center of a hot dish, pour the remainder of their cooking stock around them, and serve. Turnips with Cream. Procure some nice tender turnips and boil then in salted water; when done, turn them onto a sieve and allow them to drain well. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with one-half tablespoonful of flour and mix thoroughly over the fire with one-half teacupful of cream and one-half teacupful of milk. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, put in the turnips and then simmer gently at the side of the fire for fifteen minutes. Put them on a hot dish, pour their sauce over, and serve. Turnip Tops. The young shoots of the field turnip form a very excellent vegetable in early spring when freshly gathered and used as greens. They have a very pleasant bitter flavor, and are a very good substitute for spinach. Boiled Turnip Tops. Wash thoroughly and pick over a quantity of turnip tops and drain them well. Plunge them in a good supply of fast-boiling water with a small quantity of salt in it and let them boil for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Drain them well and serve either plain or chopped fine, mixed with salt, pepper and a small quantity of butter. Mashed Turnip Tops. Thoroughly wash and pick over a quantity of turnip tops, place them in a saucepan of boiling water and boil them until they are tender. Turn the greens onto a fine sieve, press them well to extract all the water, and when almost dry rub them through the sieve. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan together with one tablespoonful of flour and stir them over the fire until well mixed; then throw in the turnip tops, moisten with a very little clear gravy and season to taste with pepper and salt Stir the puree over the fire until very hot, then turn it onto a dish, garnish it with sippets of toast, and serve. Truffles. The kind of truffles which cooks have mostly to deal witli are known as the green and the black; other kinds, such as the white, lick flavor and are not consid- ered as of much culinary value. The red truffle is supposed to Ik- black before it is VEGETABLES. 487 ripe, but some authorities consider it to be a separate species. In Africa truffles, called Terfezia, are very abundant and find their way into this country as a substi- tute for French truffles. They are not nearly so strong in flavor. Baked Truffles. Wash well and scrub a pound or so of truffles, \vap each one in a piece of but- tered paper, put them in the oven or under hot ashes, and bake them for an hour. When done take them out, and they are then ready for use. (2.) Cut some large, fresh truffles into slices and place them on a dish that will stand the heat of the oven and can be served at table; dust them over with salt and pepper, strew over them moderate quantities of finely-minced parsley and shallot, baste them with a little olive oil, put another dish on the top, and put them in the oven. When the truffles are cooked squeeze the juice of a small lemon over them, and serve them in the same dish. Boiled Truffles. Peel and wash a dozen or more of large truffles, place them in a saucepan just large enough to hold them, add three or four cloves, a small piece of beaten mace, salt to suit the taste, and pour over sufficient white wine and water, in equal quanti- ties, to cover. Set the saucepan over the fire, cover it over and cook gently for one hour. Take out the truffles when done, drain them, place them on a napkin spread on a dish, and serve. Broiled Truffles. Wash well and peel four or five truffles, cover them over with slices of bacon, dust over pepper and salt to taste, and wrap them round with four or five thicknesses of paper dipped in cold water, push them into hot cinders or ashes, and broil them for fifteen minutes or so. Remove them when done, take off two thicknesses or the whole of the paper, place them on a dish, and serve. Truffles Cooked in Champagne. Wash well and clean one-half pound of truffles, place in a saucepan, sprinkle over salt and pepper to taste, as well as a small quantity of grated nutmeg, moisten with champagne, and a little blonde veau or veal stock, and boil until tender. Re- move the truffles when done, and turn them on a dish ; strain the liquor into another saucepan, reduce it to one-half its quantity, pour it over the truffles, and serve. Truffles in Cases. Select a quantity of truffles, all about of the same size, peel them and cook them in white wine and stock, using very little liquid. Truffles should never be cooked 4 88 VEGETABLES. too long as they lose their flavor when overdone. When done leave them until cool, and then drain them. Make a pyramid shape out of cardboard or thin wood, fix it securely on fried bread support and brush it over with melted glaze ; have in readi- ness some small paper cases of the same size, one for each truffle. Roll the truffles in melted glaze, and place one in each case. Brush the bottoms of the cases over with melted glaze, and stick one in each pyramid, the largest ones at the base and the smaller ones at the top. Stick three transparent attelette skewers, garnished with truffles, on the top of the pyramid. This piece, being directly dished on the stand, is generally served at ball buffets, where each guest may help himself. Truffles in Croustades. Wash and peel six or eight truffles, chop them up small, put them into a sauce- pan with a little butter, and salt and pepper to taste, warm them over with a quick fire, and pour in four tablespoonfuls each of Madeira wine and melted glaze. Remove the saucepan from the fire when the liquor is reduced to half its original quantity, add a lump of butter, stir it in well, and keep the preparation warm, Cut some slices of bread about two-thirds of an inch thick, and cut these into the shapes of hearts, or any other desired shapes, mark them on one surface with the point of a knife, place them in a frvingpan with butter and frv them. Open them where they were marked, remove the insides, fill them with the truffle mixture, and serve on a napkin spread over a dish. Truffles, Italian Style. Scrub thoroughly in water eight or ten truffles, peel them, cut them up into thin slices, place them in a baking-tin, sprinkle over them one tablcspoonful of finely- chopped parsley, pepper to taste, and a small quantity of powdered mace. Pour over them four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, place them in a fairly hot oven, and bake them for forty-five or fiftv minutes. When cooked, place the truffles on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them, and serve. Stewed Truffles on Crust. Cut some slices of bread about three-fourths of an inch in thickness, and shape the pieces like half-hearts, making them round on one end and pointed on the Other, with the point of a knife, cutting an incision on one side onlv of each piece of bread. Fry them in butter until of a light golden color, then drain and hollow them out, but keep them warm. Cut about one-half pound of raw green truffles into small . place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, season them with salt and pepper, and fry them over a brisk fire. Pour over the truffles one teacupfulof melted glaze, and one teacupful of Madeira wine, and boil them gently until the liquor has been reduced to half its original quantity. Remove the truffles from the lire. VEGETABLES. 489 thicken their cooking liquor with a small quantity of sauce and two or three ounces of butter, and stir it for a few minutes at the side of the fire; then fill the crusts with it. Arrange them on a folded napkin laid on a dish, and serve them while hot. Stuffed Truffles. Wash thoroughly in warm water a dozen large truffles, place them in a sauce- pan with sufficient white wine to cover them, and cook. Remove, drain, cut them with a cutter, scoop out the insides, fill them with cooked forcemeat, place them in the oven, warm them up, and serve on a napkin spread over a warm dish. Timbale of Truffles. Peel and wash a pound or two of truffles, cut them up into slices about one- fourth of an inch in thickness, put them into a sautcpan with a little warmed butter, season them with salt and grated nutmeg, and toss them over the fire until they are clone taking care not to break them. Meanwhile rub one ounce of butter into one- fourth pound of flour, add a small quantity of sugar and form the whole into a rather stiff paste by adding the yolks of three or four eggs. Roll it out very thin on a floured board and cut it into various shapes. Butter a plain timbale-mould well, pack it in ice, decorate it with the shapes of paste and allow them to set. Prepare a puff paste with one pound of flour and twelve ounces of butter, roll it out thin also and line the mould with it. It should be seven turns puff paste. Fill the mould with the slices of cooked truffles, cover it with more of the puff paste, make a slight hole in the center, place the mould on a baking-sheet in the oven, and bake. When done, turn the timbale out of the mould, make a slight hole in the top, pour in some wanned half-glaze, cover over the whole with a slice of cooked truffle, and serve hot. Macedoine of Vegetables. Cut a small, raw carrot with a vegetable scoop, put the pieces into boiling salted water and cook for fifteen minutes; repeat the same with a small raw turnip, cooking each vegetable separately. Drain and place them in a saucepan with one gill of cooked peas the same quantity of cooked string beans, about one-half inch in length, two tablespoonfuls of cooked flagclots and a small piece of cauliflower. Moisten with one-half pint of hot bechamel sauce and season with one-half pinch each of salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Allow it to simmer gently for ten min- utes, and use as required. Vegetable Puree. Prepare any kind of vegetables, such as potatoes, leeks, carrots, onions, turnips, etc., place them all together in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, stock to cover them, and salt, pepper and spices to taste, and boil them until they are quite tender; 490 VEGETABLES. then mash them through a fine hair-sieve. Put two ounces of butter and a tablespoon- ful of flour in a stewpan, stir it over the fire and then mix in the puree gradually. Stir it again over the fire for a few minutes, then move it to the side and beat in the volks of two eggs that have been beaten up with a small quantity of milk, and strained. Turn the puree onto a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of toast or croutons of bread that have been fried brown in butter, and serve. German Mode of Cooking Watercress. Wash a quantity of watercress and chop it slightly; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir over the fire until well-browned, then pour in gradually one-half pint of water and keep on stirring over the fire until boiling. Season the sauce with salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg and sufficient lemon juice or vinegar to give it an agreeable acidity. Put in the watercress, boil up, then turn it into a dish, and serve as a vegetable. Stewed Watercress. Trim off the coarse ends of the stems and thoroughly wash the watercress, then put it into a saucepan of boiling water with salt and boil it. When cooked, turn the watercress into a colander and press out as much of the water as possible; put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan to melt, then put in the cress and sprinkle over it a little flour. Stir the cress over the fire for ten minutes, and pour in one-half pint of broth, season it with a small quantity of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper and boil for ten minutes longer, stirring all the time. Turn the watercress onto a hot dish, gar- nish with croutons of fried bread and halves of hard-boiled eggs, and serve. Stocks. Fumet of Game. Take one carrot and half an onion; peel and cut them into slices and put them with half a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, a little chopped, raw, lean ham and the car- cass of any kind of raw game in a covered saucepan. Let brown, add one wine- glassful of Madeira and boil; then moisten with a quart of white broth or consomme and add a pinch of salt and twelve whole peppers. Cook well for forty-five minutes, then pass through a broth napkin and preserve in a jar. Glaze for Cold Fowl. Put into a saucepan five parts of vcloute sauce to one of chicken stock, reduce to a glaze, thicken with the yolk of egg, pass through a sieve, when it is ready for use. Glaze for Cold Hams and Tongues. Put half a shin of beef in a saucepan with one gallon of water and boil for twelve hours. Boil a knuckle of veal in water until all the goodness is extracted; strain the liquors from the beef and veal, mix them together, seasoning with moderate quanti- ties of salt, pepper and cloves, and boil until reduced to one pint. Strain the glaze through a fine hair-sieve and pour it into the jar. When cold tie it over and keep in a dry place. The glaze will keep good for ten or twelve months. A small portion of it should be warmed for use and brushed over the article with a feather. Glaze for Cold Partridges or Woodcocks. Put into a saucepan five parts of Spanish sauce with one part of game stock, reduce, pass it through a sieve and stir it into a little brown meat jelly. It will remain good for a long time if kept in a jar in a cool place. Glaze for Turkeys. Skim off the fat from some meat jelly, put it in a stewpan and stir over a sharp fire until it is of the consistency of thick cream. Skim it and strain it into jars in which it should be kept until needed for use. It should be made hot before using, and brushed over the bird with a paste brush. 492 STOCKS. Half-Glaze (Demi-Glaze). Put one pint of veal broth, one pint of Spanish sauce and three ounces of meat- glaze in a saucepan and stir it over the fire. Boil for five minutes, strain through a hair-sieve, pour into jars, cover with paper and keep until wanted for use. Yellow Glaze for Cakes. Beat up the white of an egg with four ounces of powdered white sugar, add to it by degrees the strained juice of half a lemon and beat it well, for the more it is beaten the whiter it will be. When it is white enough, add to it a small quantity of strained infusion of saffron. Grate the yellow rind of a lemon on lumps of sugar, or if the flavor of lemon peel is desired, the rinds of two lemons may be used. Scrape off the yellow sugar, pound and beat it in, being careful not to put too much, or the glaze will be bitter. Jelly for Cold Fish. Take a small skate, clean it well, place it over the fire in a fish-kettle with a calf's foot, a slice of bacon, an onion, a piece of horse-radish, three or four blades of mace, a piece of lemon peel, and a sprinkling of white pepper. Pour over three quarts of water and allow it to simmer until it is a jelly. Strain, let it stand until cold, and take off the fat; take the jelly up without the sediment, place it over the fire with a piece of lemon, the whites of four eggs and a glass of sherry. Allow it to boil for a few minutes without stirring, then place it in a warm spot, and let it stand for half an hour. Strain through a sieve with a cloth in it, and cover the cold fish with it. Savory Jelly as Mayonnaise. Prepare one quart of aspic jelly, place it in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of vinegar, one tablespoonful of salad oil, and one pinch of mignonette pepper; whisk the jelly for ten minutes, then place the pan on the ice, and continue whipping until the mayonnaise is set and firm; remove, melt, then whip it over the ice till it sets again. Warm it once more, and strain through a jelly bag. It is then ready for use. Whipping it over the ice twice, it is generally conceded, makes it whiter and smoother. Marinade. This is a French culinary term which signifies a brine, in which fish, flesh, or fowl may be soaked for a while before cooking them. By doing this a considerable addition is made to the flavor of the article marinaded. Marinades may be either cooked or raw, the former being used either hot or cold. Stew t. '-ether a finely-sliced onion and four parsley roots, adding one pint of vinegar and lour quarts of fresh water ; also a quarter of a bunch of thyme, six bay leaves, twenty-four whole peppers, STOCKS. 493 and twelve cloves. Cook these for thirty minutes on a brisk fire, then put them in a stone jar and keep them in a cool place for use. Marinade for Beef. Pour into a stewpan equal quantites of water and vinegar, the quantity depend- ing upon the size of the sirloin to be marinaded, add a few sliced onions and carrots, salt, peppercorns, and a clove of garlic. Place the pan on the fire, boil until all the goodness is extracted from the vegetables, then strain and let it get cold. The meat should be left for fully twenty-four hours to soak. Marinade for Fish. Chop fine two carrots, three onions, six shallots, and a clove of garlic ; put them into a saucepan, add a bunch each of sweet herbs and parsley, and a little butter, then let cook slowly over the fire for a few minutes; pour in two pints of cider or any sweet wine, though the former is preferable, and boil for two or three minutes, next add two dozen peppercorns and an equal quantity of allspice, three cloves and a handful of salt. Place the saucepan at the side of the fire and simmer gently for an hour and a half; strain, and the marinade is ready for use. It is generally employed for the purpose of boilng fish, to which it gives a very pleasant flavor. It will last for a long time, and can be used on several occasions, taking care to strain it after the fish has been boiled and removed. Marinade for Game. Pour into a saucepan the contents of one bottle of wine (white), one pint of vinegar, one quart of water, one handful of peppercorns, four bay leaves, a few lumps of sugar, a slice or two of carrot and onion, and a root of parsley; boil up well, turn the marinade into an earthtrn pan, and it is ready for use. All large game should be marinaded for at least two days before cooking, and should be turned in it once or twice each day. Mircpoix. This is the name given to a flavoring used for savory stew. It is made as follows: Take two carrots, two onions, two bay leaves, two shallots and a clove of garlic, and mince them together with one-half pound of fat bacon and raw ham. Toss these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and salt to season. Stew with one-half pint of red or white wine, and add to stock or sauce as required. Stock. This is a liquid or jelly containing the juices and soluble parts of meat and cer- tain vegetables extracted by cooking, for the purpose of making soups, gravies or 494 STOCKS. sauces. Such a broad definition leaves much to the discretion of the cook, and it is not, therefore, surprising- that stock is as varied as the purposes for which it is used, and even more so, as every cook has his or her own fancy in the preparation of stock, and many are compelled to use whatever may be at hand. Bones and trimmings of meat make good stock, and as these need to be cooked for a long time they should be set near the fire after once boiling up, in a stockpot, the best of which are fitted with a tap or faucet so that any quantity can be drawn off at a time free from the fat which naturally floats on top. When the stock is cold a cake of fat will be found on the top, which can be removed by passing a knife around between it and the sides of the pot. It can then be lifted off and carefully cleared of the jelly and the jelly wiped over with a cloth wrung out in hot water. If the stock be required before it has had time to cool, and the stockpot has no tap, then most of the fat can be removed by straining the stock several times through a napkin dipped repeatedly in cold water. In the following recipes full directions will be found. Crayfish Stock. Boil three dozen crayfish, put the meat from the tails together with the bodies into a mortar and pound thoroughly with one dozen blanched sweet almonds. Put four ounces each of ham and veal into a saucepan with a few parsnips, sliced onions and carrots, cook for a few minutes on the side of the fire, then add a small quantity of melted bacon fat and one teaspoonful of flour, stir the latter in thoroughly and pour in the amount of stock required. Season with mushrooms, truffles, chives, cloves, basil, salt, pepper and parsley, and add two or three small breadcrusts. Simmer slowly until the veal is done, take it out, add the mashed crayfish and rub the whole through a fine sieve. It is then ready for use. This stock may be used for moistening pies, patties, etc., or for cooking such vegetables as cauliflowers, cardoons, etc., or it may simply be served with boiled rice. Dark Stock. Secure a piece from the shin or lower part of a round of beef, with an equal weight of bones, and place the latter in a stockpot. Wipe the meat over with a cloth dipped in cold water and cut it into nice-sized pieces. Peel the required quantity of onions and fry them in butter until they are darkly browned; then put in the pieces of meat and brown them also. Put the meat in the stockpot with the bones, add any other trimmings of meat that may be convenient, fill the pot with cold water and place it over the fire. When the liquor boils take the stockpot off the fire, remove the scum, put in the browned onions with some prepared carrots, turnips, celery, a bunch of sweet herbs and a flavoring of allspice, ground pepper, celery seed, cloves and salt; add also one tablespoonful of caramel. Keep the stock simmering slowly at the edge of the fire until the meat is in shreds, then strain it through a hair-sieve STOCKS. 495 into a basin. It should never be allowed to remain in an iron kettle after it is made. Set the basin in a cool place, keeping it uncovered. Leave the fat which forms at the top of the stock in a thick cake until the stock is needed, as it excludes the air and thus assists in keeping the stock. It will be preserved at least a week longer in winter if no vegetables are used. A little fresh charcoal tied in a muslin bag and boiled in the stock is said to restore it when onlv slightly changed. First Stock. Procure a piece of beef, the breast part will answer, put it into the stockpot with some trimmings of beef, pour in a sufficient quantitv of cold water, allowing about two pints to the pound of beef, and set it over the fire. Keep it well skimmed, removing the scum as soon as it rises to the top, and pouring in occasionallv a little cold water to force the scum to the surface. When quite clear put in a few prepared vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, onions stuck with cloves, leeks and celery; add one or two tablespoonfuls of salt, move the stockpot to the edge of the fire and allow the contents to simmer for five or six hours. Skim off all the fat and strain the broth through a fine hair-sieve into a basin. When using the broth pour it out carefullv, so as to avoid disturbing the sediment at the bottom. This broth is used for making any other kind of broth. Clear French Stock. Cut up six or seven pounds of beef, place it in a stockpot with some crushed bones and a few peeled turnips, carrots, parsnips and one broiled onion, a bunch of laurel leaf and parsley, two or three cloves, a small lump of sugar, and pepper and salt to taste. Pour in three quarts of water, place the stockpot over the fire until the liquor boils; then skim it well, move it to the side and let it simmer for six or seven hours. At the end of that time skim the stock again, then strain it into a basin. When cold remove all the fat from the top and it is ready for use. Game Stock. Put the carcasses of two birds and one pint of mircpoix into a saucepan, cover with water, add a pinch of salt, cook for twenty minutes, and it is ready for use. General Stock. Take four pounds of any fresh trimmings of lean meat and bones, cut the meat from the bones and break them; put them in a stockpot together with the meat, add a small quantity of salt and five quarts of water. Place the stockpot over the fire and let the contents boil. Skim the stock and then add some scraped and washed carrot, a peeled onion or two and one or two trimmed and washed leeks; cover the pot 496 STOCKS. closely and let the contents boil gently for at least five hours. Strain the stock, pour it into a bowl and allow it to stand in a cold place till it is required for use. Gravy Stock. Put one pound of lean minced beef into a flat stewpan, place the cover on and toss the pan over the fire until the meat is browned. Pour over two breakfast cupfuls of hot water and let this boil until half the liquor has evaporated ; then pour in an- other half pint of water and add a thick slice of lean ham, one onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little ground mace, and salt to taste. Let this boil until the liquor is again reduced to less than half a pint, then pass the liquor through a strainer or squeeze it in a broth napkin, and when all the liquor possible is squeezed out, set it away to cool. There should not be any fat, but if there should happen to be any, it will collect and harden at the top. This gravy stock is useful at all times for making gravy at a minute's notice. Mixed Stock. Put the trimmings and bones of any kind of meat into a stockpot with one quart of water with every two pounds of meat and bones, and place it over the fire until the contents commence to boil. Skim the stock, move it to the side, and let it simmer very slowly for six or seven hours. At the end of that time put into the stockpot a bunch of sweet herbs, a moderate sized onion with half a dozen cloves stuck in it, and one teaspoonful of peppercorns. Keep the stock simmering for two hours longer, removing the scum occasionally ; then strain it through a fine hair-sieve into a large bowl, and set away in a cool place. On the next morning skim off the fat. Second Stock. This is made with the bones, meat, vegetables, etc. that have been previously boiled in the first stock. After the liquor has been drained off them, pour in about three quarts of water, and let it simmer for four or five hours. Afterward strain it off into a basin, and keep it in a larder for making sauces, purees, etc., or it may have another quart of water added to it, and be boiled until reduced to one pint. Then strain it off into a basin. When cold it will be very stiff, and can be used for glaze. Veal Stock or Veal Blond. Melt a small lump of butter in a stewpan, then put in four sliced onions, four pounds of leg of veal, two pounds of gravy beef, and two old fowls from which the flesh has been cut. Pour in one pint of stock, stand the stewpan over the fire, and boil the mixture down to a glaze, then pour in five quarts of stock, and put in a heap- ing tablespoonful of salt. When boiling, skim the stock, and add in some carrots STOCKS. 4'); and leeks, and let it simmer gently for four hours by the side of the fire. Strain the stock through a broth napkin, leave it until cool, then skim off all the fat. Trim the fat and chop the flesh of the fowls fine, place it in a mortar and pound it to a pulp ; then put it into a large stewpan, mix in first a small quantity of veal stock, and then add the rest. Stand the stewpan over the fire, stir the contents till boiling, then move it to the side, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. If quite clear at the end of that time, strain the stock through a broth napkin, to be kept until required. Butters, Hot and Cold. Anchovy Butter. This is very useful and can be used to spread on slips of toast as a relish, or may be employed in making anchovy sauce for fish, or be served in pats garnished with parsley. Clean bone and beat in a mortar to a paste one part of anchovies to two parts of fresh butter and add four ounces more butter. Pass through a sieve. Some cooks add spices and other finely-chopped parsley that has been scalded. Cayenne pepper and nutmeg may also be added to taste. Black or Brown Butter. Place in a stewpan over the fire about half a pound of butter, leaving it there until it browns and then cool. In another pan put a teacupful of vinegar and a little pepper and boil until reduced one-third. When the butter is quite cold put in the pepper and vinegar and again warm it over the fire, stirring it well, but do not allow it to boil; when thoroughly mixed together, pour off into pots. Crayfish Butter. Take the shells and small claws of some crayfish, place them in a mortar with a large piece of butter and pound until they become a paste. Put this into a stew- pan and the stewpan into a bain-marie. When the mixture is quite hot pass it through a tammy into a basin of cold water and let the butter rise to the top; it is then ready for use. A second method is to pick the meat from the tails of a dozen crayfish, dry the shells and pound them all together in a mortar, adding one ounce of good butter. Put all into a saucepan on a moderate fire, stirring until it clarifies, then strain it through a napkin, letting it fall into cold water. When congealed, take it out and place in a warm basin, stirring until it takes the color. Creamed Butter. This is better adapted for the making of cakes and some kinds of pastry. The requisite amount is poured into a basin and held before the fire until thoroughly melted and then beaten with the hand. Drawn Butter. Dissolve over a slow fire a quarter of a pound of butter, sprinkling in about a tablcspoonful of flour; afterward add hall a pint of boiling water and a pinch of salt. BUTTERS, HOT AND COLD. 499 Boil for a few minutes, stirring well, and then put in a teaspoonful of cold water. If intended for a pudding sauce put in a glass of white wine and half a grated nutmeg, stirring thoroughly. Garlic Butter Sauce. Peel and boil a couple of garlics as for "Garlic Flavoring for Gravies," drain, pound them to a paste in a mortar together with one ounce of butter, one saltspoon- ful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper; rub the mass through a fine hair-sieve, mix with it one breakfast cupful of butter warmed to melting and the strained juice of a lemon. It is then ready for use. Horseradish Butter. This is made by pounding grated horseradish and butter and adding salt to taste. The quantity of horseradish depends upon how strong the taste is required. Lobster Butter. Take the head and spawn of some hen lobsters, put them in a mortar and pound; add an equal quantity of fresh butter, and pound both together, being sure that they are thoroughly mixed. Pass this through a fine hair sieve, and the butter is then ready for use. It is very nice for garnishing or for making sandwiches. Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Put a quarter of a pound of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, together with the juice of two lemons in a basin, and mix them well together, keeping in a cool place. Olive and Anchovy Butter. Stone some French olives, wash and chop them. Skin and bone an equal quan- tity of anchovies, chop them also, and mix them with the olives. Pour the mixture into a mortar with half its bulk of fresh butter and pound all together until perfectly smooth. Pass the mixture through a fine hair-sieve and shape it into small balls. Keep them on a dish which is placed over ice until they are ready to serve. This butter is very nice served with toast. Ravigote Butter. Place in a mortar one sprig of parsley, and tarragon, a very small quantitv of chives and a like amount of chervil, one small peeled shallot, half a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, an ounce of good butter, and a half drop of spinach green, then pound them well together. Alter this, rub them through a fine sieve, and keep in a cool place. 5 oo BUTTERS, HOT AND COLD. Sardine Butter. Remove the skins and bones from seven or eight sardines, put the fish in a mor- tar and pound it until smooth. Boil two large handfuls of parsley until tender, then squeeze it as dry as possible, remove all the stalks or stems, and chop it. Put the parsley in the mortar with the sardines and four ounces of butter and pound again. When well incorporated mould the butter into shapes and keep it on ice until the time of serving. The above is excellent spread on hot toast. Shrimp Butter. Pick and shell one pound of shrimps, place them in a mortar to pound, add one- half pound of butter, and when well mixed pass the whole through a fine sieve. The butter is then ready for use. Tarragon Butter. Mince some tarragon leaves, put one tablespoonful of them into a mortar, pound ■well and work in one-fourth pound of butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Rub the preparation through a fine hair-sieve and it is then ready for use, and should be served with soles and mackerel. Thickened Butter. Place in a saucepan the yolks of a couple of eggs and break them gently with a spoon, adding slowly four ounces of butter melted but not browned, and set the pan over a slow fire, stirring well until of the required consistence. Gravies. Garlic Flavoring for Gravies. Peel a few cloves of garlic, plunge them into a saucepan of boiling water, let them remain for five minutes, take out and put them in another pan containing boil- ing water, and boil for five minutes longer. Continue in this way until the cloves of garlic are quite tender; add a pinch of salt to the liquor, mix it in with gravy in equal proportions and it is ready for use. Garlic Flavoring for a Salad (Chapon). Cut from a loaf of bread a thin crust two inches long by one inch wide and sprinkle over a little salt. Rub a peeled clove of garlic ovei both sides of the crust, lay it at the bottom of the salad bowl, place the salad over and stir it about. Chicken Gravy. Put into a stockpot the bones and trimmings of a fowl or chicken with a small quantity of stock and boil them; add flour and butter (previously browned to a light brown) to thicken it and then place the pot at the side of the stove and let it simmer. Stir well, and after the gravy has simmered for some time, skim and strain it, and it is then ready for use. Colorings for Gravies. (i) Put a little burnt Spanish onion into a basin, pour some boiling water over it, and work it with a spoon. Put it into the gravy and boil up together. This gives to the gravy a decided flavor. (2) Put an old iron spoon into the fire and make it hot. A little moist sugar dropped into the spoon gives a caramel that only requires to be mixed in the gravy to give the latter any tinge of brown desired. (3) Baked raspings from bread will thicken and brown all kinds of gravies, but will not color to give satisfaction without thickening. (4) A little flour baked until quite brown in a tin dish will color the gravy and may be always kept on hand ready for use, but is as objectionable as bread raspings for general use. Fish Gravy. Put into a saucepan two pounds of any kind of fish flesh cut into pieces with half a gallon of water, and add a blade of mace, three cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs and 501 502 GRAVIES. a small quantity each of lemon peel and salt. Place the lid on the pan, set it on the fire and boil until the liquor is reduced to one-half its original quantity, then add a lump of butter and a tablespoonful of flour and stir well until the latter is quite smooth, or the flour and butter may be worked smooth in a saucepan and the gravy strained over. Boil for a few minutes, and the gravy is then ready for use. Game Gravy for Mutton. Pluck and draw a very high woodcock or snipe, cut it in pieces together with its entrails (with the bag taken out), put in a saucepan with sufficient plain and un- seasoned meat gravy to a little more than cover, and simmer gently for several hours, then strain and serve. This gravy if used for mutton that has been kept for some time will give it a strong venison flavor. Gravy for Roasted Goose. When the goose is roasted or baked turn nearly all of the fat out of the pan, but do not pour away the brown part of the drippings. Put the pan over the fire, stir into it one piled tablespoonful of flour, and let the flour brown; then stir in a pint of boiling water, season the gravy with salt and pepper, boil for a moment, and serve. Meat Gravy. Cut off the rind from one pound of raw lean ham, put it in a saucepan with a little butter, and add four onions, each cut into quarters. Put about six pounds of fillet of veal and the same of gravy beef in the saucepan, add one pint of general stock, put the pan on the fire and reduce the liquor to a dark glaze, taking care not to let it burn. Now add two gallons of stock, one fowl, a bunch of herbs and a lump of salt; boil up again, remove the pan to the side of the fire and allow the contents to simmer for four hours. Strain through a cloth, remove the fat, and it is ready to serve. It may be clarified for jelly if necessary with the whites of two eggs and one pound of pounded veal. Shallot Gravy. Put half a dozen peeled shallots into a saucepan with one wineglassful of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste and boil for eight minutes; then add one teacupful of brown gravy and boil for ten minutes longer. Before serving the gravy should be strained through a sie\ ^. Thick Gravy with Fine Herbs. Take one large onion, chop it up small ami put it in a saucepan with a pat ot butter and stir over the fire until lightly colored; then put in two and a half break- GRAVIES. 503 fast cupfuls of half glaze and a breakfast cupful of broth and boil until reduced to two- thirds; then skim it well, stir in a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, one table- spoonful of parsley, a pinch of sugar and a little cayenne and boil for five minutes. When about to serve squeeze in the strained juice of half a lemon. Gravy for Turkey. Take an onion and chop as fine as possible. Put it into a fryingpan with a little butter and fry until it is dark brown. Put three gills of stock into a saucepan with a little finely-chopped ham, a sprig each of parsley and thyme, a little Worces- tershire sauce, and salt and pepper to taste, then boil for from five to ten minutes. Strain into a basin or sauceboat. Veal Gravy. Take one pound of lean ham cut in slices and a knuckle of veal cut up and put them into a well-buttered stewpan with any bones of chickens and rabbits which may be at hand; pour two quarts of stock over this, cover it and boil it down to a gla-.e When it is a deep red fill it up with stock; as soon as it boils skim well; add three or four cloves, two blades of mace, three good-sized carrots and the same amount of chopped celery, onions and turnips. Let it simmer for about three hours, then strain it through a tammy sieve into a pan to cool for use. Gravy for Venison. Take two or three pounds of loin of mutton, remove all the fat and cut it into rather thick slices, grill them for a minute or two on one side only so as to slightly brown them, put them in a stewpan, pour over one quart of water, place the lid on the pan and simmer at the side of the fire for an hour; then take off the lid and boil until the liquor is reduced to half its original quantity. Season with salt onlv when wanted for use. Gravy for Wild Fowl. Put into a small saucepan a blade of mace, a piece of lemon peel, two tablespoon- fuls each of mushroom catsup, walnut catsup and strained lemon juice, two shal- lots cut in slices; and two wine-glassfuls of port wine; put the saucepan over the fire and boil the contents; then strain, and acid it to the gravy that has come from the fowl while roasting. If there should be a large quantity of gravy, less wine, catsup, etc., will be necessary, Liaisons. Liaison of Butter. This is merely the addition of a certain quantity of butter at the last moment of cooking the sauce. Liaison of Butter and Cream. The same as liaison of butter with the addition of cream. Beat the butter and cream together and stir into the sauce. Liaison of Eggs. Beat up the yolks of the eggs into some of the sauce after cooling it, and then pour this in, stirring slowly. Do not put the eggs in with the hot sauce or they will be sure to curdle. Liaison of Flour. Sometimes the sauce is thickened by dredging into it flour or arrowroot; but the better plan is to rub a little till smooth in water, and then pour it into the sauce through a strainer. Liaison of Roux. Place in fryingpan twice as much butter as flour, and then mix together as the butter melts, stirring with a spoon until the flour gets red, but be sure not to let it burn. 504 Sauces for Fish, Game, Meats, Etc. Admiral's Sauce. Add to one breakfast cupful of melted butter sauce two wcll-poundcd anchovies, four shallots chopped very fine, one teaspoonful of chopped capers, and a very little thinly-pared lemon peel. Put all these in a saucepan over the fire, and let simmer until the anchovies are well incorporated. Pick out the lemon-peel; add the juice of one lemon and a small quantity of pepper and salt, and pour it into a sauce tureen. Allemande or German Sauce. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan over a slow fire with three tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken it. Stir well in order to prevent its browning ; then moisten with one pint of white broth, beating all the time, and cook for ten minutes. Beat three volks of eggs separately in a bowl ; pour the sauce over the eggs a very little at a time ; strain through a strainer, and finish with one half ounce of good butter and the juice of half a lemon, taking care that it does not boil a second time. American Sauce. Chop one fair siz.ed peeled onion very fine, one green pepper and half a peeled clove, some garlic ; season with a pinch of salt and three pinches of red pepper, together with half a wineglassful of good white wine. This should be reduced for two minutes, and add about a gill of tomato sauce, and a fair-sized peeled tomato, cut up into dice-shaped pieces. Cook for about ten minutes, and it is ready for use. Anchovy Sauce. Take three or four filleted anchovies, and beat them in a mortar with three ounces of butter. Put this anchovy butter into a stewpan with a wineglassful of water, two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful of flour previously rubbed down smooth with water. Stir over the fire until it thickens, and then rub it through a coarse hair-sieve. Anchovy and Caper Sauce. Put some melted butter in a saucepan, dredge in a little flour to thicken, adding season of pepper and salt to taste and a small quantity of nutmeg, then pour in a little vinegar from the capers; mix all well together, and stir in a boned anchovy S05 5 o6 SAUCES. and a tablcspoonful of capers, both chopped very fine. Set the saucepan on the fire, boil the sauce for five minutes, and it is ready for use. Anchovy Butter Sauce. Beat up a piece of anchovy butter the size of a small egg in one pint of good brown sauce, warm over a slow fire, and stir in the juice of half a lemon, or more, according to taste. This sauce goes well with baked fish. Asparagus Sauce. Season with nutmeg, pepper and salt about half a teacupful of boiling water, add the yolks of two eggs, and whisk it by the side of a fire, but do not let it boil. Add gradually a quarter of a pound of butter, broken into small pieces, and continue stirring until it has the appearance of smooth cream. Add a small quantity of lemon- juice, and serve in a sauceboat. This is a very good sauce to be served with cold slaw. Aurora Sauce. Mix in a saucepan a small glassful of mushroom liquor with half a pint of hot well-seasoned bechamel sauce, half an ounce of butter and two or three tablespoonfuls of red tomato sauce. Place on the fire for five minutes, stirring well the while, and then add some whole mushrooms cut in squares, and serve, Bearnaise Sauce. Beat the yolks of five eggs in a saucepan, and add one tablcspoonful of butter and one pinch of salt ; stir the egos over a slow fire until they commence to thicken ; then remove them and stir in two more tablespoonfuls of butter ; continue stirring at the side of the fire until the butter is dissolved. Season the sauce with some chopped fine herbs and parsley, and pour in one teaspoonful of French vinegar. The sauce is then ready for serving. Bechamel Sauce. Put into a saucepan half of an onion, three tablespoonfuls of butter that has been worked with three tablespoonfuls of flour, a large slice of carrot, a bunch of parsley, thyme and a bay leaf, tied together, a small piece of mace, a small quantity each of salt and grated nutmeg, and one pint of white stock. When boiling place the sauce- pan at the side of the fire, and let the sauce simmer lor thirty minutes, stirring it often. When cooked, mix with the sauce one half pint of cream, boil it up again. then strain it through a fine hair-sieve, and serve. I. 2. | Put two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire until well mixed; then pour in by degrees one pint of white stock, and continue stirring over the fire until SAUCES. 507 boiling. Add eight or nine peeled mushrooms, put the lid half on the saucepan, and let the sauce simmer for twenty minutes, skimming off the butter as it rises. Strain the sauce through a fine hair-sieve, put it into another saucepan, mix in one-half pint of cream and the juice of half a lemon, stir it over the fire, and allow it to boil for five or six minutes, then pour the sauce into a basin, and continue stirring until it is cold. Mix some aspic jelly with the sauce if used for making a chaudfroid. Bechamel Brown Sauce. Chop some lean veal, bacon, one carrot, two small onions and one turnip. Put them into a saucepan with a small lump of butter, and fry until they are nicely browned; then dredge in a small quantity of flour, and fry that as well. Moisten the onions, etc., with some broth and one-half pint of cream ; add three cloves, one bay leaf, a bunch of parsley and thyme, a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper. When on the point of boiling, move the sauce to the side of the fire, and allow it to stew gently for an hour. When strained, the sauce will be ready for serving. Tout Sauce. Beyi Tour one tablespoonful each of chili vinegar, common vinegar and chopped onions into a saucepan, add one and one-fourth pints of melted butter, one teacupful of brown sauce and one half teacupful each of mushroom catsup and Worcester- shire sauce; stir the above ingredients over the fire until boiling, then move them to the side and let them simmer for ten minutes. Skim the sauce, place it over the fire again and boil it until thick and creamy; mix with it a sprinkling of sugar, two table- spoonfuls of anchovy sauce, and serve. Bigarade Sauce. Pare the rinds from two oranges, cut them up into small pieces and boil in a saucepan of water for about five minutes, remove and drain. Melt a little butter in a saucepan, stir in one tablespoonful of flour and cook until it browns. Tour in a teacupful of broth, add the juice of two oranges, a little sugar, and salt and pepper to taste; put in the pieces of rind, boil up quickly, pour it into a sauceboat, and serve. Blanquette Sauce. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when melted, sift in about two tablcspoonfuls of flour; stir oyer the fire until well-mixed, but not browned. Mix in by degrees sufficient boiling water to bring the sauce to the proper consistency, then put in a bunch of sweet herbs, some cooked button mushrooms and onions, and pep- per and salt to taste. This sauce can be used for warming up cold meats as a white fricassee. 5 o8 SAUCES. Bordelaise Sauce. Chop fine four shallots, boil them tor a tew minutes, then strain off the water and put them into a saucepan with one-half pint of white wine. Boil the wine for twenty minutes; then add one pint of Spanish sauce, a small quantity of chopped parsley and pepper. Let the sauce simmer gently by the edge of the fire for twenty minutes longer, then boil it up and serve at once. Bourgeoise Sauce. Put one tablespoonful each of blanched and chopped chervil, parsley and tarra- gon leaves into a saucepan and mix with them one teacupful of stock and one dessert- spoonful each of meat glaze, French mustard and powdered sugar; stir the above in- gredients over the fire for a few minutes. When ready to serve the sauce squeeze into it the juice of half a lemon and season to taste with a little each of salt and pep- per. This sauce makes an excellent relish for cold boiled chicken or beef. Brittany Sauce. Put into a basin one teaspoonful each of sugar and mustard and one tablespoon- ful of grated horseradish; mix with one-half teacupful of vinegar. This sauce can be served with either hot or cold meat. Brown -Sauce. Peel and cut eight or ten large onions into halves and put them in the bottom of a stewpan with one-fourth pound of butter, put one pound of slices of lean ham on the top of them, then eight pounds of leg of beef and veal, also cut into slices, l'lace the stewpan over a quick fire and fry the contents, keeping the onions at the bottom. When the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light brown glaze, prick the meat with a fork, remove the stewpan from the fire, deaden it with ashes, place the stewpan again over it and let it stand for half an hour longer, stirring twice during that time. Pour into the stewpan ten quarts of water, add three turnips, two carrots, two blades of mace, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. When boiling move the stewpan to the side of the fire, season the contents with pepper and salt and keep it simmering gently for two hours, skimming off the fat and adding a little cold water- now and then to keep it the same quantity. Skim the liquor, thicken it with roux diluted with hot water, and pass it through a fine hair-sieve into a basin. It is then ready for use. Black- Butter Sauce. Brown in a fryingpan an ounce of butter, adding six parsley leaves, heat again for a minute or so, and add five drops of vinegar or lemon juice to the pan; pour this also over, and serve. SAUCES. Brown-Butter Sauce. 509 Place the desired amount of butter in a saucepan and warm it until it takes a rich brown color, but do not let it burn. Pour this sauce over the fish or joint it is served with and add a little vinegar or lemon juice to the pan, pouring this over also, and serve. Drawn-Butter Sauce. Put in a saucepan a couple of ounces of butter, adding two tablespoonfuls of flour while stirring; pour in a pint of water, adding a little salt and pepper. Simmer at the side of the stove for half an hour until it thickens, then add gradually half an ounce of butter, beating until it becomes white, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Stir well, strain through a hair-sieve, and serve. Butter Sauce with Parsley. Place in a stewpan over the fire six ounces of butter, let it melt, and remove from fire; let it settle for five minutes, pouring off the clear into another pan, warm it up, mix in a little salt and finely-chopped parsley, and serve hot in a sauceboat. Caper Sauce (for Boiled Mutton.) Make two pints of melted butter, and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, four tablespoonfuls of large capers, and two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy. Caper Sauce (for Fish.) Make one pint of melted butter, into which place a small piece of glaze, and when the sauce is ready for serving stir into it two tablespoonfuls of choice capers, salt and pepper to suit the taste, also putting in one tablcspoonful of essence of anchovies. Cardinal Sauce. Prepare one pint of melted butter or butter sauce, and color it with pounded lobster coral; when that cannot be procured, pound together the red part of a lobster and some shrimps. l'ass them through a fine hair-sieve, and season with salt, cayenne pepper, and the strained juice of a lemon. Stir the fish mixture into the sauce while boiling, and when well mixed it will be ready for serving. Celery Sauce. Wash thoroughly, and pare neatly, and cut into dice-shaped pieces, and then wash again in fresh water, two or three roots of fine celery, using only the white parts. Lift them out with the hand so that the sand and dirt will remain at the bottom of the pan, place them in a saucepan, and cover with fresh water, adding two or three 5 io SAUCES. pinches of salt, and a small piece of butter. Place the lid on, and cook over a hot fire for twenty minutes; then drain, put in the saucepan again with one pint of hot German sauce, toss well for a short time, and serve. Celery Sauce for Boiled Fowls. Wash thoronghly and trim a head of celery. Put it into boiling water, with one tablespoonful of salt, and boil it until it is tender. Then drain it through a colander, and cut into pieces one-half inch in length. Blend a large tablespoonful of flour with one-fourth pint of the broth in which the fowls are boiling. Mix till it is quite smooth, add one ounce of butter, a small piece of grated nutmeg, and salt to taste, and mix it with one-fourth pint of milk. Place it over the fire in a saucepan, and stir it till it boils. Let it boil for ten minutes and then throw in the pieces of celery ; when it is quite hot again, pour it into a sauce-tureen, and serve. Celery Sauce for Game. Select a large bunch of celery, wash it thoroughly, cut it fine and boil slowly in a little water until it is tender, then add one pinch each of grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and powdered mace, thickening it with one tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour. Boil it up and pour it in the dish. If desired, half a pint of cream and one wineglassful of white wine may be added to advantage. Champagne Sauce. Place two cloves, half a dozen whole peppers and one-half tablespoonful of pow- dered sugar in a saucepan with a brimming glassful of champagne. Set it on the fire and reduce it for five minutes; then moisten with three-quarters of a pint of Spanish sauce and cook for fifteen minutes longer. Strain through a fine strainer, and serve. Chauteaubriand Sauce. Put a small lump of meat glaze into a saucepan with one-half teacupful of white wine and stir it over the fire until melted; then pour in one-half pint of Spanish sauce and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Thicken the sauce with a maitre d'hotel sauce, and serve it. Chestnut Sauce for Turkey. Remove the outer husks from about fifty chestnuts and place them on a chestnut roaster (which is a kind of warming pan riddled with holes), over a clear fire, stir- ring constantly and shaking them until the second skin will come off easily. Then put them in a stewpan with a wineglassful of white wine, sufficient good stock to i over them, a good lump of butter, a heaping teaspoonful of pounded lump sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. When tin v are boiled quite tender, but still remaining SAUCES. 5* i whole, put the chestnuts into a hot sauce tureen, reduce the liquor by boiling it a minute or two longer, and pour it over them. Thev are then fit to be served with the turkey. Chicken Liver Sauce. Take two livers, wash and boil in salted water until they are tender. Drain and chop them into moderate-sized pieces, put them in one pint of melted butter with two tablespoonfuls each of catsup and pickle vinegar, add pepper and salt to taste; give it a boil up and it is ready for serving. Chili Sauce. Chop twelve green peppers and eight large onions very fine, place them in a saucepan with four dozen peeled tomatoes, sixteen tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, six of salt and six breakfast cupfuls of vinegar. Set the saucepan on the fire and boil gently for an hour. Let the mixture cool and pour it into jars and cover over; it is then ready for use. Of course a smaller quantity can be made by simply reducing the quantity of the ingredients. Chives Sauce. Put a cupful of breadcrumbs in a saucepan with two ounces of butter and stir over the fire until of a pale golden color; then pour in half a pint of broth with two tablespoonfuls of finely-mixed chives and season to taste. Stir the sauce over the fire until boiling, keeping it very smooth. Clarcmont Sauce. Chop some onions, put them into a saucepan with a small quantity of oil and fry them until well cooked; add some light veal gravy and boil it, skimming off the oil as it rises. The sauce is then ready for serving! Colbert Sauce. Put two ounces of meat-glaze into a saucepan over the fire with one-half teacup- ful of stock; stir it until it has melted, then pour in one pint of the same stock and stir in slowly one ounce of butter broken into small pieces. When on the point of boiling, strain the sauce, squeeze in the juice of a lemon or two, add one tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, and serve. Crab Sauce. Put three cupfuls of milk into a saucepan, add two ounces of butter rolled in flour; it should be stirred in one direction only. Cut up the meat from a crab and mix with a little mace, cayenne and salt; stir in the boiled milk and let it simmer for three minutes, but do not let it boil. 5 12 SAUCES. Crapaudine Sauce. Pour one-half pint of light piquant sauce into a saucepan, add four chopped mushrooms and one teaspoonful of mustard diluted in two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Boil for five minutes, and then serve. Crayfish Sauce. Moisten one-fourth of a pound each of flour and butter with a little water, and the liquor that any fish has been cooked in (having the fat removed), and with them make a sauce. When it begins to thicken while boiling add three ounces of fresh butter, a small lump of crayfish butter, and five tablespoonfuls of crayfish tails and claws, either cut up in small dice, or put in whole. Cream Sauce. Put into a saucepan one ounce of flour and two ounces of butter, place it on a slow fire, and stir lightly with a spatula for two minutes, adding one wineglassful of Madeira, two ounces of caster sugar and one teacupful of cream. Stir well again for two minutes, to avoid its coming to a boil; take it from the fire, add immediately one wineglassful of wine, stirring it lightly again. Pour the cream into a saucebowl, and serve immediately. Cream Sauce for Venison. Pour over the venison, when cooked, one-half pint of cream, and catch it in a dish. Strain the cream into a saucepan, put one tablespoonful of chopped cooked onion into it, and a small piece of butter that has been worked with a little flour; stir the sauce over the fire until boiling, and the flour is cooked, then move the pan to the side and mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir till well thickened, but do not let it boil again, and serve the sauce in a sauceboat with the venison. Cream Sauce with Vinegar. Put one tablespoonful of flour into a saucepan with one ounce of butter, and stir it over the fire until mixed, but not browned ; then pour in by degrees one-half pint of cream, and continue stirring until thick and boiling. Season the sauce with salt and a little grated nutmeg ; squeeze in the juice of a lemon, or a sufficient quantity of vinegar to give it a tart flavor, and then serve. Red Currant Sauce. Take a handful of red currants and boil in water for a few minutes ; add one ounce of butter, four cloves, three tablespoonfuls of sifted breadcrumbs and one wine- glassful of port wine ; stir until it boils, and serve very hot. One ounce of grocer's currants are sometimes used instead of red currants in making this sauce. SAUCES. 5i3 Currant Jelly Sauce. Prepare a breakfast cupful of brown sauce, strain it well, and add a teacupful of currant jelly made warm ; put it in a pan on the fire, and stir until the jelly is quite hot and well mixed. It is then ready for use. Red Currant Jelly Sauce for Game. Brown in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of butter a finely shaped onion; then add one tablespoonful of flour, a bav leaf and sprig of celery, and stir until these also begin to brown; add a pint of good stock and simmer on one side of the fire for twenty minutes. Pass the sauce through a strainer back into the pan, skim off the fat, add one teacupful of red currant jelly, and stir over the fire until it is melted. It is then ready for use. Curry Sauce. Peel and slice four onions and two apples, place in a stewpan; add four ounces of butter, six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, two bav leaves and a blade of mace, and brown the onions over a moderate fire. Mix two tablespoonfuls of curry powder with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it in with the onion mixture; then add one quart of white stock and half a pint of white sauce; season with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist sugar and boil for a quarter of an hour, stirring constantly; strain it through a sieve into another stewpan, boil again, skim, and use when required. Deviled Sauce. Put three peeled and chopped shallots into a saucepan, add one clove of garlic, one bav leaf, a bunch of parsley ami thyme, one-half teaspoonful of cayenne ami coarsely crushed white pepper, one and one-half pint of Spanish sauce, and one-half pint of veal broth. When boiling, move the sauce to the edge of the fire, and let it simmer for half an hour. Skim the sauce, strain it through a fine hair-sieve, and serve. Diplomatic Sauce. Pour three-fourths of a pint of bechamel cream sauce into a saucepan, mix with it a little of the liquor in which some crayfish have been broiled, and broil it quickly for a lew minutes; then it is ready for serving. Duchess Sauce. Cut into small dice one-half ounce of cooked ham and two truffles; place these in a saucepan over a brisk fire with one-half wincglassful of white wine and let the liquor reduce for three or four minutes. Add one gill of good tomato sauce, boil for one minute with one tablespoonful of meat-glaze and add one-half pint of allemande sauce. Toss well while heating, but do not allow it to boil again, and serve very hot. 5'4 SAUCES. Dutch or Hollandaise Sauce. Put one-fourth pint of vinegar into a saucepan with a small piece of nutmeg and a few coarsley-bruised peppercorns; boil it for a few minutes; then strain it into a larger saucepan; add two ounces of salt butter and stir it until dissolved. Lightly beat the yolks of eight or nine eggs, mix the boiling .vinegar lightly in with them, then turn the sauce into the saucepan and stir it over or near the fire until thickened; do not allow it to boil again, or the eggs will curdle and spoil the sauce. When thick, put in one ounce of butter, stir it until well dissolved, then move it from the fire; add another ounce of butter in small pieces, and serve. D'Uxelles Sauce. Reduce one-half pint of Madeira sauce with one-half wineglassful of white wine; add to it a dozen very finely-chopped mushrooms, two shallots also chopped up and browned in a very little butter for five minutes, and one-half ounce of chopped cooked beef tongue. Boil again for five minutes, and then serve. East Indian Sauce. Put the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs in a basin and mash them until they are quite smooth; then mix in one teaspoonful of curry powder; pour in gradually one breakfast cupful of salad oil and one-half teacupful of tarragon vinegar. Continue stirring the mixture until it is quite smooth and the ingredients are well incorporated; it is then ready for serving. This sauce is very nice eaten with salad. Egg Sauce. Boil half a dozen eggs in a saucepan of water for six minutes; let them cool, remove the shells and cut up into small squares; melt eight tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan on the fire; add three tablespoonfuls of cream and a little salt and pepper and boil for five or six minutes. Put in the eggs and shake the pan over the fire until the eggs are hot; then add two tablespoonfuls more of butter and shake again until it is melted. Pour the sauce when ready into a sauceboat, and serve. Egg Sauce for Fowl. Melt without browning two ounces of butter in a saucepan; add two tablespoon- fuls of flour and mix until smooth; pour in two breakfast cupfuls of boiling water, adding a little at a time, and stir quickly until thick; then add two ounces more of butter and half a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper and, last of all, three hard- boiled eggs chopped fine. After removing the pan from the fire stir well, when the sauce is ready for use SAUCES. 5I5 Financiere Sauce Put one pint of stock into a saucepan with one ounce of brown roux and stir it over the fire until boiling, skimming it occasionally. Mix with the above ingredients- one wineglassful each of mushroom catsup and Madeira, a little cayenne pepper and a small piece of meat-glaze. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the sauce simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Skim the sauce, boil it up again and then strain it. The sauce is then ready for use. Financiere Sauce (for Fish). Put one pint of lean Spanish sauce into a saucepan with one-half pint each of essence of mushrooms and truffles, two wineglassfuls of Madeira and a small piece of meat-glaze. Boil the mixture and reduce it until it will coat a spoon. Strain it through a silk sieve; it is then ready for use. Financiere Sauce tor Game. Put into a saucepan three breakfast cupfuls of Spanish sauce, and one and one- half breakfast cupfuls each of essence of game and truffles; boil until reduced to half their original quantity. Strain the sauce through a broth napkin; it will then be ready for serving. Fine Herbs Sauce. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and chopped onion with two tablespoonfuls of butter, sprinkle in a little salt and pepper, and stir for two or three minutes over the fire; then pour in one pint of white sauce and con- tinue stirring until it boils. It is then read}' to serve. Flemish Sauce. Put one breakfast cupful of the red part of carrot cut into very small pieces into a saucepan with one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of boiling water, and let it simmer for one hour. Put three tablespoonfuls of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire until they are well mixed, then add a slice of carrot, one chopped onion, one blade of mace, and sixteen or eighteen peppercorns. Stir the whole over the fire for a minute or two, then pour in one pint of stock, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. Mix one breakfast cupful of cream with the stock, boil it up once more, then strain it through a broth napkin, or a fine hair-sieve. Strain the cooked carrot, put it into the sauce, together with two tablespoonfuls of chopped cucumber pickles, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful grated horseradish, and salt to suit the taste. Stir the sauce well, and serve it. 5 i6 SAUCES. Sauce for Crabs. Slightly warm two or three ounces of butter, and beat until creamy with a wooden spoon, then mix with it one teaspoonful of made mustard, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Season to taste with a small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt, and stir it over the fire until thickened, but do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle. It is then ready for serving. Sauce for Goose. Pour one-half pint of port wine into a small saucepan, and place it over the fire until very hot but not boiling ; then mix with one tablespoonful of made mustard, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt, and it is ready for use, and should be poured over the bird just prior to serving. Sauce for Roasted Hare or Rabbit. Pull out the crumb of a stale French roll, put it into a saucepan, and soak it in port wine, then place the pan on the fire, add a small piece of butter, and beat it to a pulp, adding salt and pepper to taste, then a small quantity of red currant jelly, and one-half wineglassful of vinegar. Boil up once, and serve very hot. Sauce for Loin of Veal. Put the minced yolks of three hard-boiled eggs into a small stewpan with some sweet herbs, two tablespoonfuls of well-washed currants, one tablespoonful of fine breadcrumbs, one teaspoonful of sugar, two whole cloves, and a little beaten cinna- mon. Moisten the ingredients with a sufficient quantity of clear gravy, and stir the sauce over the fire until boiling. Put three slices of Seville oranges in it, and serve. Sauce for Roasted Meats. Put a small piece of butter into a saucepan with a little chopped parsley, the juice of one lemon and a little salt, and stir about on the fire for a few minutes, then pour in one teacupful of water, and add a small quantity of meat-glaze. When boiling, the sauce is ready for pouring over the joints. Sauce for Cold Salmon. Beat the yolks of two eggs well with three tablespoonfuls of cream, season with salt and a little cayenne pepper, pour it into a lined stewpan, and stir it over the fire until thickened and on the point of boiling; then move it to one side, and Leave the sauce until cold ; stir it occasionally. Mix with it one wineglassful of vinegar, and serve. SAUCES. 5i7 Sauce for Suckling Pig. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, and one tablespoonful of salad oil into a saucepan over the fire, and cook gently until the onions are done, but without allowing them to take color; then add half a dozen tablespoonfuls of milk, one wine- glassful of Madeira or sherry wine, and two breakfast cupfuls of white sauce, and boil for fifteen minutes, skimming frequently. Add a tablespoonful of minced mush- rooms, half that quantity of parsley, also minced, one tablespoonful each of salt and sugar, and a small quantity of white pepper. Boil up once, and the sauce is ready for use. French Sauce. With the yolks of half a dozen eggs and one pound of butter prepare some ber- naise sauce; season to taste with pepper and salt, and stir in with it one teacupful of tomato puree. When cooked, dissolve in the sauce one ounce of chicken glaze, and add one tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and slightly reduced chili vinegar. Stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then serve the sauce. Fricassee Sauce. Stir gradually the yolks of three well-beaten eggs into a basin with one-half pint of white sauce, put them into a jar and stand it in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it until the sauce thickens. Just prior to serving, add the strained juice of half a lemon, after removing the jar from the boiling water. Chaudfroid Game Sauce. Boil one and a half pints of Spanish sauce with three-quarters of a breakfast cupful of essence of any game. When stiffly reduced, mix with the sauce two table- spoonfuls of brown aspic jelly cut into small pieces, stir the sauce until the jelly is dissolved, then strain it through a silk sieve, and it is ready for serving. Garlic Sauce. Remove the peel from some garlic, separate them into cloves, put them in a saucepan of water and boil for five minutes ; change the water three times, boiling for five minutes in each. Strain off the water, add white sauce to the cloves, boil up and serve. The strength of the flavor is determined by the length of boiling, as the longer it boils the weaker it will be. The garlic if properly cooked will have an almond taste. Geneva Sauce. Put one tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, add one dessertspoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until brown. Mix with butter and flour one pint of fish broth 5 i8 SAUCES. and one-half pint of red wine ; add two sliced onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms and salt and pepper to taste. Allow the sauce to boil slowly for half an hour, then mix with it one wineglassful of Madeira, strain the sauce through a fine hair-sieve, and serve it. One teaspoonful of brandy may be added to the sauce in place or the Madeira if preferred. Gherkin Sauce. Put a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, a clove of garlic, two finely-chopped shallots, a little cayenne pepper, and salt into a saucepan with one breakfast cupful of vinegar. Place the pan on the fire, and when the contents have boiled for thirty minutes add a breakfast cupful of stock or good broth. Strain it through a fine hair-sieve and stir in an ounce and a half of liquefied butter mixed with a little flour to thicken it. Place it back in the saucepan and when it boils stir in a teaspoonful or so of parslev very finely chopped, two or three minced pickled gherkins and a little salt if required. Giblet Sauce. Put the giblets from any bird into a saucepan with sufficient stock or water to cover them and boil for three hours, adding an onion and a few peppercorns while cooking. Take them out and when they are quite tender, strain the liquor into an- other pan and chop up the gizzards, livers and other parts into small pieces. Take a little of the thickening left at the bottom of the pan in which a chicken or goose has been braised, and after the fat has been taken off, mix it with the giblet liquor and boil until it is dissolved. Strain the sauce, put in the pieces of giblet, and serve hot. Godard Sauce. Put about half a pound of pieces of raw ham into a saucepan with an onion and a carrot, both sliced, and one-fourth pound of butter ; fry them until lightly browned, then pour in one and one-half pints of dry champagne, and simmer for half an hour. Strain the liquor into a stewpan, and mix with it one quart of Spanish sauce and one breakfast cupful of essence of mushrooms. Boil the sauce till it is of a thick creamy consistency, then strain it through a broth napkin into a bain-marie pan. It is then ready for use. Gooseberry Sauce. Pick one pound of green gooseberries, and put them in a saucepan with sufficient water to keep them from burning; when soft mash them, grate in a little nutmeg and sweeten t<> taste with moist sugar. This sauce may be served with roast pork or instead of apple sauce. It may also be served with boiled mackerel. A small piece of butter will make the sauce more rich. SAUCES. 5i9 Green Sauce. Use one handful each of any or of all the following green herbs : Tarragon, chervil or curled parsley, burnet, parsley, and chives or green onions. After washing them in cold water put them into boiling salted water, and boil for two minutes, then drain, put them into cold water for a moment, drain again, and pass them through a sieve with a masher. Mix this pulp with the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a sieve, one tablespoonful of vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. When the sauce is made, keep it very cold until required. Half-Glaze Sauce Put one pint of clear, concentrated veal gravy in a saucepan, mix with it two wineglassfuls of Madeira and a bunch of sweet herbs, and set the broth over the fire until boiling. Mix two tablespoonfuls of potato flour to a smooth paste with a little cold water, then mix it in with the broth and stir until thick. Move the pan to the side of the fire and let the sauce boil gently until reduced to two- thirds its original quantity. Skim it well, pass it through a silk ."«eve, and it is ready for use. Ham Sauce. After a ham is nearly all used up pick the small quantity of meat still remaining clean from the bone, scrape away the uneatable parts and trim off any rusty bits from the meat, chop the bone very small, and beat the meat almost to a paste. Put the broken bones and the meat together into a saucepan over a slow fire, pour over them one-fourth pint of broth and stir for about a quarter of an hour; add to it a few sweet herbs, a seasoning of pepper and one-half pint of good beef stock. Cover the saucepan and stir very gently till well flavored with the herbs, then strain it. A little of this added to any gravy is an improvement. Hanover Sauce. Place the boiled liver of a chicken in a mortar and pound it, then mix with it the juice of half a lemon, one breakfast cupful of cream, and salt and pepper to taste; stir the sauce over the fire in a saucepan until it is on the point of boiling, then move it to the side and let it simmer for a minute or two. Serve while hot. Horseradish Sauce. Place in a basin one tablespoonful of moist sugar, one tablespoonful of ground mustard, one teacupful of grated horseradish, and one teaspoonful of turmeric; season with pepper and salt and mix the ingredients with a teacupful of vinegar 520 SAUCES. or olive oil. When quite smooth turn the sauce into a sauceboat, and it is quite ready to be served. Italien Sauce. Put a large lump of butter into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful each of chopped mushrooms and shallots, and one pint of white wine. Boil until reduced to half its original quantity. Mix with the above ingredients one breakfast cupful of veloute sauce and one-half breakfast cupful of stock; boil quickly over the fire until thick. Skim the sauce and keep it warm in a bain-marie until ready to serve. Jardiniere Sauce Cut three peeled carrots into slices one-quarter of an inch thick, and with a small long and round vegetable-cutter, cut each slice into as many pieces as possible. Prepare some turnips in the same way, put them with the carrots into a saucepan with twenty peeled button onions, one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of sugar, and fry over a moderate fire for from ten to fifteen minutes; then pour in one and one-half breakfast cupful of broth and let it simmer gently at the side of the fire until the vegetables are tender; then boil it up to reduce the moisture a little and skim off all the fat. Pour three-fourths of a pint of brown sauce into another sauce- pan with one and one-half teacupfuls of broth and boil it quickly until thick and creamy; then put in with it some pieces of cauliflower, seven or eight heads of as- paragus, two tablespoonfuls of green peas, one tablespoonful of string beans and the prepared vegetables, and let all boil gently for fifteen or twenty minutes. Season with a small quantity each of salt and sugar, move it off fhe fire, put in one table- spoonful of butter and stir it until it is dissolved. The sauce is then ready for serv- ing. A bunch of parsley and a bay leaf will improve the flavor. Kidney Sauce. Cut four small or one large beef kidney into slices, dust with flour and put them into a fryingpan with three ounces of butter, a few sweet herbs and half an onion cut up small. Toss the pan gently over a moderate fire for eight minutes, add one pint of water and simmer gently for two hours, skimming frequently. Pass it through a fine sieve or strainer, and serve. Lemon Sauce for Boiled Fowls. Peel a large lemon, cut it in slices, pick out all the pips and cut each slice into small pieces. Boil a fowl's liver, then chop and add it to the lemon, pour one-half pint of hot melted butter over, and serve it in a sauceboat with the fowl. SAUCES. 521 Lemon Sauce for Fish. Squeeze and strain the juice of a large lemon into a lined saucepan, put in with it one-fourth pound of butter and pepper, and salt to taste. Beat it over the fire until thick and hot, but do not allow it to boil. When done mix with the sauce the beaten yolks of two eggs. It is then ready to be served. Lobster Sauce. Remove the meat from a large lobster and cut it into one-fourth inch dice. Put the inner shells and scraggy parts into a saucepan with one quart of cold water and boil for fifteen to twenty minutes. Strain and use the water in making one pint of drawn butter sauce. Add the lobster, the dried and powdered coral, a little cayenne pepper and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Madeira Sauce. Mix together one small glassful of mushroom liquor and a pint of Espagnole sauce and a small glass of Madeira wine; add a bouquet garnished and a .small tea- spoonful of red pepper, carefully remove all fat and cook for half an hour, which will leave the sauce in rather a liquid consistency, when it should be strained and is ready for use when needed. Maintenon Sauce. Chop fine a slice of lean ham and put it into a saucepan with a sprig of pars- ley, two mushrooms and two shallots, all finely chopped, one-half tablespoonful of butter, two lumps of sugar and the juice of a lemon, and toss them over the fire for a few minutes. Mix well one tablespoonful of flour with a small quantity of water, then stir in with it gradually one-half pint of stock and mix it in with the other in- gredients in the saucepan; season it to taste and continue stirring the sauce over the fire for twenty minutes. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire and thicken the sauce with the beaten yolks of four eggs. When thick the sauce is ready for serving. Maitre d' Hotel Sauce. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a saucepan with one-half tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little finely-mixed thyme and onion, and pepper and salt to taste. Stand the saucepan by the fire, and whisk the contents with an egg whisk until on the point of simmering; then remove the saucepan from the fire, and serve the sauce. Marshal's Sauce. Pour one tcacupful of green tarragon into a saucepan with one tcacupful of white vinegar, a lump of sugar, and one-half saltspoonful of salt, and boil quickly until the 522 SAUCES. vinegar has reduced to half its original quantity; then pour in one teacupful of turned sauce that has been stiffly reduced, and boil it up once ; then stir in the yolks of three eggs beaten with a little milk or cream. Continue stirring the sauce by the side of the fire until thick, but do not allow it to boil. Strain the sauce through a fine hair- sieve, return it to the saucepan, mix with it one-fourth pound butter, and work it by the side of the fire until it has dissolved Serve the sauce while it is hot. Matelote Sauce. Put some slices of onion into a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them until browned; then remove them, leaving the butter in the stewpan. Pour in with the butter one and one-half pints of wine and stock, mixed in equal quantities (either red or white wine can be used), and season to taste with salt and pepper. Boil the sauce until it is reduced to one-third its original quantity, then put in some cooked mushrooms, and the onions, and serve it. Sauce Mayonnaise. Place in an earthen bowl a couple of fresh egg-yolks and half a teaspoonful of ground English mustard, half a pinch of salt, half a saltspoonful of red pepper, and stir well for about three minutes without stopping, then pour in, drop at a time, one and a half cupfuls of the best olive oil, and should it become too thick, add a little- at a time, some good vinegar, stirring constantly. Milanese Sauce. Put into a saucepan two chopped mushrooms, one or two washed and boned anchovies and two tablespoonfuls of butter and stir over the fire until browned; then sift in two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir that also for a few minutes until nicely colored; pour in one-half pint of stock and one-half wineglassful each of caper vine- gar and marsala, and keep stirring them until boiling, then add a small quantity of mixed mustard, a little salt and a small pinch of cayenne pepper. Let the sauce simmer for twenty minutes, then strain and put it back into the saucepan with one tablespoonful of capers. After five minutes' boiling, the sauce will be ready for serving. Mint Sauce. Chop fine some fresh well-washed mint leaves, put them immediately into a sauce tureen, pour just enough vinegar to float the chopped leaves, add enough sugar to sweeten the vinegar, and allow it to stand for fifteen minutes. (2) Pour one-half pint of vinegar into a saucepan with one-half ounce of brown sugar and reduce it Add one pint of water; boil for one minute only, mix in one tablespoonful of very finely-minced mint, and serve. SAUCES. 523 Sauce Montglas. Cut one ounce of cooked smoked beef tongue into small julienne-shaped pieces, one ounce of cooked chicken, a couple of truffles and four mushrooms, all of which place in a saucepan with half a wineglassful of Madeira wine, put the pan over a brisk fire and reduce for half an hour, then add half a pint of Espagnole sauce and one gill of good tomato sauce, cook for another five minutes, and serve. Mushroom Sauce. Put a quarter of a pound of mushrooms in a saucepan with three shallots, chopped, and a small bunch of parsley. Pour in enough gravy stock to cover the mushrooms, season and let stew at the side of the fire for a couple of hours. At the end of that time, strain through a sieve. Mix some butter and flour and pour it in the sauce. Mushroom Brown Sauce. Pare and chop off the roots of half a pound of mushrooms, put in a saucepan with two cupfuls of brown gravy and the peel of half a lemon, salt and pepper to taste. Cook for thirty minutes; remove the lemon peel, and add the juice of half a lemon Mushroom White Sauce. Chop off the stems, peel and wash half a pound of mushrooms, cut in half, and put in a pan with a pint of water. Add half a blade of beaten mace, a little lemon- peel and grated nutmeg, cover over the pan and stew for thirty minutes. Heat up the yolks of two eggs with a cupful of cream, and a little butter rolled in flour, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir the mushrooms until it is quite smooth, pour in the cream mixture and stir until the whole boils. Take out the lemon peel, and add half a lemon. Muskateer Sauce. Place one shallot, some tarragon, cress and chervil leaves in a mortar, and pound them. Mix with the pounded leaves one dessertspoonful of meat glaze, one tcaspoonful of mustard, a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Pass the sauce mixture through a broth napkin, mix with it one-half teacupful of olive oil, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar, and serve. Mussel Sauce. Open the required quantitv of mussels, remove the dark spots found in the body parts, wash them well, and stew in water for about half an hour, seasoning with a blade of mace. Strain the liquor, return the mussels to it, bring it gently to a boil, remove 52 + SAUCES. from the fire, thicken with a liaison of flour and butter, add a small quantity each of cream and milk, and it is then ready for use. Mustard Sauce. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan over the fire and warm without browning it. Mix in well two tablespoonfuls of flour, pour in gradually one pint of hot stock or water, and stir until it thickens and is perfectly smooth. Add two ounces more of butter in small pieces, stir well and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Mix in three tablespoonfuls of made English mustard and a little cayenne and it is ready for use. Piquant Mustard Sauce. Peel and slice an onion, put it in a saucepan, add two or three thinly-sliced cloves of garlic, two bay leaves, one teaspoonful of crushed peppercorns, a few cloves, a little tarragon and a pint of the best vinegar; season with salt and boil the whole to- gether for ten or fifteen minutes. Leave the vinegar until cold, keeping the lid on the saucepan; then stir in sufficient mustard to make a stiff paste and pour the mix- ture into small jars, which should be tightly corked and tied down with paper. Mus- tard prepared in this way may be kept for some time. Neapolitan Sauce. Reduce in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of raw mirepoix with one-half ounce of butter; after five minutes moisten it with one-half pint of Madeira wine, one-half pint of Spanish sauce, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and two tablespoonfuls of essence of game. Reduce for ten minutes and rub through a sieve. Nonpareil Sauce. Chop a slice of boiled ham, an equal quantity of breast of cooked chicken, a pickled cucumber, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, one anchow freed from skin and bone, the head of a shallot and a little parsley. Put them into a saucepan with some catsup and boil all together for a few minutes. Serve with either meat or fish. Normandy Sauce. To one pint of veloutc sauce add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. Reduce the sauce for ten minutes, and place it in two tablespoonfuls of fish stock. Let it just come to the boil again, then add two yolks of eggs ami the juice of half a lemon. Strain through a fine hair-sieve, and stir in one-half ounce of fresh butter. This sauce should be stiff. SAUCES. 525 Olive Sauce. Place some olives in a basin of water, and let them remain for thirty minutes. Have a small slice of onion in a saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and as soon as the onion commences to color add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir until it is smooth. Pour in a pint of rich stock, and remove the pan to the side of the fire where the stock can simmer gently. Remove the stones from the olives, add them to the sauce, season with salt and pepper, and simmer for twenty minutes longer. Skim it well, and when readv to serve, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. If a thin sauce is desired, the flour may be reduced. Onion Sauce. Peel the required number of onions, and put them into a saucepan of cold water. When the water boils pour it off, and add more boiling water so as to take the strength out of the onions. Repeat this two or three times more, and the onions will be quite mild. Chop them up, but not too small, and mix them with melted butter, or pound the onions to a pulp, mix them with a little cream sauce, and thev are reach to use. Onion sauce is used generally for roasted or boiled shoulder of mutton, tripe, ducks or rabbits. Onion Sauce tor Boiled Fowl. Peel and slice one pint of onions; put them in a stewpan over the fire with enough milk to cover and stew until tender; then beat them to a pulp with a fork; add a seasoning of salt and white pepper, sufficient milk to form a sauce of the con- sistency of cream, and a tablespoonful of butter. Onion Sauce with Vinegar. Peel three good-sized onions, mince them fine, place them over the fire with a lump of butter and fry over a brisk fire until brown. Sift a tablespoonful of flour over the onions, pour in two gills of water and season with salt, pepper, mustard and vinegar to taste. Stir the sauce over the fire and boil until quite smooth. It is then ready for use. Oyster Sauce. Partially boil the oysters in their own liquor, then strain and beard them, reserv- ing the liquor. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of flour, stir over the fire until mixed, then pour in the oyster liquor and stir until boiling. Add as much milk as will be required to make the sauce, also a blade of mace and a bay leaf tied together, pepper and salt to taste, add a small quantity of cayenne 526 SAUCES. pepper. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, then put in the oysters. When they are quite hot remove the mace and bay leaf, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Oyst iter Sauce for Boiled Poultry. Place in a saucepan over the fire a small quantity of flour with an equal amount of butter and stir together until it bubbles, then gradually mix in the liquor from the oysters and enough broth from the poultry to make a sauce of the consistency of cream Season with salt and white pepper and let it boil for a moment, then put the saucepan containing the sauce into a pan of hot water and place it on the back of the fire to keep hot until wanted. Put in the oysters and boil them once more. In the meantime dish the poultry, pour a little of the oyster sauce over it, and serve the remainder of the sauce in a boat. Oyster Plant Sauce. Scrape some roots of oyster plant and put them in acidulated water. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour into a saucepan with a small quantity of salt, and stir in gradually one pint of water. Continue stirring it over the fire until boiling, then put in the oyster plant and let simmer gently until tender. When cooked strain the roots, put them in a sauceboat with some butter sauce, and serve without delay. Palestine Sauce Bourgeoise. Peel and cut a dozen Jerusalem artichokes into round balls, put them into a stew- pan, and toss them over the fire with a little butter and sugar until well covered. Mix with the artichokes one-half tablespoonful of flour, then stir in slowly three teacupfuls of white sauce. Boil the artichokes very gently until quite tender, season the sauce with a small quantity of salt, thicken it with a liaison of eggs, and stir it briskly by the side of the fire, but do not boil it again. It is then ready for serving. lote Sauce. Papillc Chop fine two onions, put them into a stewpan, with one-half ounce of scraped fat of bacon, and stir over the fire for five minutes ; then pour in one pint of brown sauce. When boiling put in with the sauce one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and mushrooms, a small quantity of scraped garlic, a lump of sugar, a little nutmeg, and pepper and salt to taste. Stir the sauce and boil it till reduced to a creamy thick- ness ; then take it off the fire and leave it till cold. This sauce is generally used for cutlets Maintenon. Parsley and Butter Sauce. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan and melt it ; then stir in two table- spoonfuls of flour, mixing it well over the fire, but not letting it brown at all. Pour SAUCES. 527 in gradually a pint of boiling' water or white stock, and continue stirring until it thickens ; then put in two ounces more butter, and two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper. When the butter has dis- solved the sauce is ready for serving. Parsley and Lemon Sauce. Squeeze the juice out of a lemon, remove the pips, and mince fine the pulp and rind. Wash a good handful of parsley, shake it as dry as possible, and chop it, throwing away all the stalks. Put one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour in the stewpan, and stir over the fire until well mixed ; then put in the parsley and minced lemon, and pour in as much clear stock as will be required to make the sauce. Season with a small quantity of pounded mace, and stir the whole over the fire for a few minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of cold stock, and move the sauce to the side of the fire, and when it has cooled a little, stir in the eggs. Stir the sauce for two minutes at the side of the fire, and it will be ready for serving. Perigueux Sauce. Peel and chop four truffles, put them into a stewpan with one wineglassful of sherry and boil for a minute; then pour in one pint of half-glaze, add a little salt and a teaspoonful of sugar. Stir the sauce over the fire till boiling, then serve it. (2) Put into a saucepan one and one-half pints of thin Spanish sauce, one-half pint each of essence of mushrooms and essence of truffles. Boil the sauce till thickly reduced, then strain it through a fine hair-sieve, mix with it about two table- spoonfuls of chopped truffles that have been cooked in a little Madeira, and serve. Piquant Sauce. Prepare some melted butter, flavor it to taste with tarragon, or malt vinegar, a little pepper and mustard if liked. Stir the sauce over the fire till cooked, then move it to the side, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and serve. (2) Chop very fine three mushrooms, one shallot and a small carrot. Melt one ounce of butter in a stewpan, put in the above ingredients and fry them till nicely browned; then stir in two tablespoonsfuls of flour and one-half pint of rich brown stock, add a bay leaf, one or two sprigs of thyme and one tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, and stir the whole over the fire till boiling, then cook over a slow fire for twenty minutes. Stir in one-half tcacupful of vinegar and season to taste with salt, pepper and a little cayenne pepper. Strain the sauce and it is ready for use. Red Piquant Sauce (Spanish). Soften two or three red capsicums for a little less than a minute in boiling water, dry them, put them in a mortar with a little garlic and pound them to a paste. Add 528 SAUCES. a little water, then turn it into a saucepan containing one breakfast cupful of boiling oil and season with salt and vinegar. Fish should be cooked in this sauce and served with it poured over them. Poivrade Sauce. Put in a stewpan half a dozen scallions, a little thyme, a good bunch of parsley, two bay leaves, a dessertspoonful of white pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and two ounces of butter, and let all stew together till nearly all the liquor has evapo- rated; then add one teacupful of stock and two teacupfuls of Spanish sauce. Boil this till it is reduced one-half, and serve. Polish Sauce. Peel and cut some turnips into small balls or olives, and boil them till tender in salted water with the addition of a little sugar. Put one tablespoonful each of butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till well-mixed but not browned; then pour in one pint of liquor in which some fish has been boiled, and boil it quickly over the fire till somewhat reduced. Boil a pint of cream, stirring it constantly while boiling, and mix it with the sauce; drain the turnips, add them, and season to taste. Serve the sauce while hot. Pompadour Sauce. Put some chopped shallots and mushrooms into a saucepan with a little butter, and sweat them for a few minutes on the fire; then put in one and one-half teacupfuls of turned sauce and two tablespoonfuls of broth, and cook over a slow fire for three- fourths of an hour, keeping it well skimmed. Thicken the sauce with the beaten yolks of three eggs, add one-half teacupful of cream, a little salt and pepper, and stir the whole till quite hot and well mixed. Blanch and chop fine a little parsley, mix it with the sauce, squeeze in a little lemon juice, and serve. The lemon juice may be omitted if it is not relished. Portuguese Sauce. This sauce should be made a minute or two before it is ready to be served, for if permitted to cool it will be spoiled. Put five or six tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan with the yolks of two raw eggs, a small quantity of lemon juice, and a pinch of coarse pepper, and stir over the fire until hot, but do not allow it to boil. Remove the sauce from the fire, and keep on stirring it until thick. It is then ready for serving. Port Wine Sauce. ( i). Pour one gill of port wine into an earthenware jar, adding half a wineglass- ful of melted red currant jell v, a saltspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, SAUCES. 529 together with a small quantity of cayenne, and a teacupful of thick brown stock, or the same quantity of the drippings from meat, skimmed of all fat; then place the jar in a saucepan of water over the fire, and boil; when done, place it in a sauceboat, and serve. (2). Prepare half a pint of melted butter sauce, and incorporate with it a wine- glassful of port wine, sweeten to the taste with powdered sugar, and boil gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring it occasionally. Poulette Sauce. Put one ounce of flour and a trifle more than one ounce of butter into a stewpan and stir it over the fire for three or four minutes; then pour in gradually one pint of broth and keep on stirring for fifteen minutes. Thicken the sauce with a liaison of yolks of eggs and a small lump of butter, strain it through a fine hair-sieve, season to suit the taste, and serve. Princess Sauce. Put eighteen chicken quenelles, two truffles cut into slices and one blanched chicken liver cut into dice into a saucepan over the fire with one wineglassful of white wine and permit it to reduce for three or four minutes; then add one table- spoonful of meat-glaze, let it come to a boil and add one pint of good allemande sauce. Toss well together, but do not allow it to cook, and serve it very hot. Provincial Sauce. Put into a saucepan two tablcspoonfuls each of finely-chopped shallots and mush- rooms, two cloves of garlic cut into halves, a bunch of sweet herbs and one-half tea- cupful of salad oil; season to taste with pepper and salt and stir the whole over the fire for a few minutes; then pour in by degrees in equal quantities some broth and white wine. When boiling move the saucepan to the edge of the fire and let the con- tents simmer gently for half an hour. Remove the bunch of sweet herbs, and serve the sauce. Prussian Sauce. Mix together in a saucepan a scant pint of hot bechamel sauce, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, half a teaspoonful of red pepper, about three tablespoonfuls of horseradish well grated, and a couple of spoonfuls of raw cream, and let it boil for four or five minutes, stirring the while, and it is ready for use. Queen's Sauce. Put one pint of rich gravy into a saucepan with a quantity of breadcrumbs and let them simmer until quite thick. Chop the meat from the breast of a cold fowl, .530 SAUCES. and pound it with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and a few sweet almonds. Add the pounded mixture to the sauce, season with pepper and salt, and stir it until hot without permitting it to boil. It is then ready for serving. Ravigote. The literal meaning of this French term is "pick me up," from the verb ravigoter — to cheer and strengthen. It is applied to a mixture of tarragon, chervil, chives and burnet minced very fine, or used as a faggot. Minced ravigote is a favorite garnish for salads and is then served on a saucer by itself, each herb being kept separate by itself, the whole constituting, therefore, four little heaps so that each may be used at discretion. Ravigote butter is made by kneading up some butter with the chopped ravigote, pepper, salt and lemon juice. Ravigote sauce is English "'melted butter," or butter sauce with which chopped ravigote has been mixed. Ravigote Sauce. Pour one-half pint of stock into a saucepan with a small quantity of white wine; chop fine some herbs, such as chervil, tarragon, chives, and parsley, or whatever are in season, making about three tablespoonfuls in all and mix them well with the stock; season with a small quantitv each of salt and pepper, and stew them gently twenty or twenty-five minutes. Mix one tablespoonful of flour with one tablespoon- ful of butter, then stir this into the sauce, and continue stirring them by the edge of the fire until thick. Squeeze a small quantity of lemon juice into the sauce, and serve it. Regency Sauce. Cut half a pound of raw lean ham into slices, and place them in a saucepan, with two shallots, two onions, and a quarter of a pound of good butter, and stir over the fire for a few minutes, but without browning; then add a pint of essence of chicken and half a pint of Spanish sauce; boil until of a thick, creamy consistence; strain through a napkin, and serve when desired. Remoulade Sauce. Mix together in a basin two tablespoonfuls each of chopped anchovies that have been preserved in oil and capers, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of dry mustard, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix the above ingredients with salad oil and a few drops of malt vinegar; one pinch of scraped garlic may be added if desired. The sauce is then ready for serving. SAUCES. 53 * Robert Sauce. Chop a peeled onion into one-fourth inch dice, and fry these in one tablespoonful of butter until browned; then add a tcacupful of vinegar, and boil swiftly until the liquid has nearly evaporated. Then stir in one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of any cold brown gravy, or stir in first one tablespoonful of dry flour, and let it brown, and then mix in one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of boiling water. Season the sauce highly with pepper and salt, and simmer it slowly for fifteen minutes. Just prior to using it, stir in one dessertspoonful of mustard. Royal Sauce. Put four ounces of fresh butter and the yolks of three fresh eggs into a sauce- pan and stir them over the fire until the yolks commence to thicken, but do not allow them to cook hard. Take the sauce off the fire and stir in by degrees two table- spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of Indian sov, one finely-chopped green gherkin, one small pinch of cayenne pepper and a small quantity of salt. When well incorporated keep the sauce in a cool place. When cold serve with fish. Salmi Sauce. Mix together in a small saucepan one tablespoonful each of flour and butter and stir it well over the fire until lightly browned; then pour in three-fourths of a pint of white wine and an equal quantity of broth, add one tablespoonful each of chopped shallots and carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, a lump of sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Boil the above ingredients until reduced to about half their original quantity, pass it through a sieve, then mix in the meats, etc., prepared for the hash. Shallot Sauce. (i.) Peel and slice about a dozen shallots, put them into a saucepan with one bay leaf and a small quantity of thyme and parsley tied together and a little more than one teacupful of broth. Boil the liquor until it has reduced to a glaze, then pour in one and one-half pints of clear meat gravy and leave it over the fire until boiling; then move it to the side and let it remain for ten or twelve minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine hair-sieve, and serve it. (2.) For Mutton — Chop fine a dozen or so of shallots, season them with salt and pepper, put them over the fire in one-half pint of gravy and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and boil for about twenty minutes. Shrimp Sauce. Pour one pint of white poivrade sauce and butter sauce into a saucepan, and boil until somewhat reduced. Thicken the sauce with two ounces of lobster butter. Pick 53 2 SAUCES. one and one-half pints of shrimps, put them into the sauce with a small quantity of lemon-juice, stir the sauce by the side of the fire for a few minutes, then serve it. (2) Make about one-half pint of butter sauce, and while it is in the saucepan mix in about one teaspoonful of anchovy essence, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, a small lump of lobster butter, and one-half saltspoonful of cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire until the butter has dissolved, then put in one teacupful of picked shrimps. Serve the sauce while hot. Sicilian Sauce. Place in a mortar half a tablespoonful of coriander seeds and four cloves; bruise them well, then put in a saucepan one and a half breakfast cupfuls of gravy, and one cupful of essence of ham, together with the thinly shredded peel of half a lemon, and the bruised seeds of the cloves; when it is boiling, add two bay leaves, two garlic cloves, and a head of celery sliced. Boil until reduced to half its quantity, and then add a wineglassful of white wine; strain through a fine hair-sieve, and work in well a tablespoonful of butter and a similar quantity of flour, and put all back in the sauce- pan, stirring the sauce over the fire until thick. It should be served while hot with roast fowl or meat. Sorrel Sauce. Mix together one-half pint of green gooseberries well scalded, a little sugar, a glass of white wine, one-fourth of a pint of sorrel sauce, and one ounce of butter. Boil all together, and serve. Soubise Sauce. Peel three large onions, cut them into slices, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, fry them, but not to color. Mix with the onions one-half pint of veal gravy, and boil until tender. Skim the sauce, pass it through a fine sieve, season it with salt and cayenne pepper, mix in one tablespoonful of hot cream, and serve. Spanish Sauce, Espagnole. Prepare a brown roux in a saucepan with one-fourth pound of butter, and four teaspoonfuls of flour, by stirring it over the fire in one direction with a wooden spoon until colored ; then leave it in the saucepan until thoroughly colored. Pour in with the roux one pint of good broth, stirring it gently at the same time until smooth. Let the sauce simmer slowly for about an hour, skimming it often to clear it, then boil it briskly over the fire until reduced a little, and strain it through a fine hair-sieve. Stir the sauce in a basin until nearly cold, then put in a small lump of butter. SAUCES. 533 Supreme Sauce. Mix with one pint of white sauce three chopped mushrooms, the juice of half a lemon, and one ounce of butter; stir over the fire while boiling for ten minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine hair-sieve, and use it when required. Tarragon Sauce. Put a few branches of green tarragon and one wineglassful of white wine vinegar into a saucepan, and boil for about ten minutes; then add four tablespoonfuls of veloute sauce, and the yolks of two eggs to thicken. Pass the liquor through a fine hair-sieve or cloth into a basin, add a few leaves of tarragon, blanch them, and cut them up rather small. Flavor with lemon juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. The sauce is then ready for use and should accompany boiled fowl. Tartare Sauce. Beat together the yolks of two eggs, one teacupful of oil, and three tablespoon- fuls of vinegar; when well beaten, add one tablespoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of chopped capers, the same quantity of chopped cucum- ber pickles, the juice of an onion, and one-half saltspoonful of pepper. This sauce can be used with meats served in jelly, also fried and broiled meats and fish. Tomato Sauce. Cut one dozen tomatoes in halves, squeeze out the seeds and water, put the to- matoes into a saucepan and add ;i bunch of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, and one breakfast cupful of water; cover the saucepan, place it over the fire and boil the con- tents for about three-quarters of an hour, stirring it often. Put one ounce of butter and one-half ounce of flour into a saucepan, stir well over the fire for about three minutes, remove the pan from the fire and add the pulp from the tomatoes passed through a sieve. The pulp should be added a little at a time and thoroughly stirred in. Pour over one breakfast cupful of rich broth and boil it for twenty minutes. If the sauce should be too thick, a little more broth may be added; it is then ready for use. If canned tomatoes are used, they must be mixed with the butter and flour in the same way as the tomato pulp. Toulouse Sauce. Prepare some rather thick Allemande sauce, then mix with it a garnishing of cockscombs, fat livers, kidneys, mushrooms and small quenelles, etc. Stir the sauce until well-mixed, then serve it while hot. 534 SAUCES. Truffle Sauce. Cut half a dozen large truffles into quarters, put them in a stewpan with two breakfast cupfuls of Spanish sauce and two-thirds of a wineglassful of sherry, and boil il gently at the side of the fire for forty minutes or so. Pour a little veal stock into the sauce now and then as it becomes reduced. Strain the sauce, chop the truffles coarsely, return them to the stewpan with the sauce and stir them over the fire until boiling again. The sauce is then ready for serving. Valois Sauce. Chop two shallots, put them into a saucepan with a wineglassful of vinegar and boil them until the moisture has entirely evaporated; then leave it until cold. Add the beaten yolks of five eggs and one' tablespoonful of butter, and stir all over the fire for two or three minutes. Take the saucepan off the fire, put in another table- spoonful of butter and stir over the fire again. Add an ounce of chicken glaze cut into small pieces, another tablespoonful of butter, and mix thoroughly off the fire. Place the saucepan on the fire, put in one tablespoonful each of butter and chopped parsley, and when well mixed serve Sauce Veloute. Put an ounce lump of butter into a saucepan, allow it to melt and add two table- spoonfuls of flour, stirring continually and not allowing it to become brown; then add a pint of chicken stock, very strong, put in some garnishes, half a cupful of the liquor of mushrooms, half a dozen whole peppers, half a pinch of salt, together with a small quantity of nutmeg. Let boil, the while stirring, for twenty minutes, then move to the side of the fire and skim well, allowing it to simmer slowly for an hour, after which rub it through a fine sieve. Venetian Sauce. Reduce for four minutes one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar and chervil vinegar with half a dozen whole peppers, one ounce of lean cooked ham cut into small dice, six parsley roots, one sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Strain it through a fine sieve into a bowl, moisten with one-half pint of veloute sauce, and finish with a dozen leaves of finely-chopped tarragon, two drops of spinach green and one tea- spoonful of chopped parsley. Victoria Sauce. Pound one tablespoonful of lobster coral very fine with one-half ounce of fresh butter and set it one side. In three-fourths pint of allcmunde sauce place one-hall SAUCES. 535 wineglassful of white wine and half a dozen chopped mushrooms, let it warm well without boiling in a saucepan, and then mix in the lobster coral. Stir well, and serve. Villeroy Sauce. Mix an equal quantity of butter and flour together, and stir it over the fire in a saucepan until highly colored ; then stir in one pint of either meat or fish broth, a few mushrooms, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let the broth simmer for fifteen minutes, then strain it through a fine hair-sieve, and boil it until slightly reduced. When ready to serve, thicken the sauce with the yolks of two or three eggs. Vinaigrette Sauce. Chop together very fine one shallot, two branches of parsley, and the same of chives and chervil ; when all are well chopped, place them in a sauce-bowl, with one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Stir all well together, then add four tablespoonfuls of good oil, mix well again, and serve. This is also called French dressing. Walnut Sauce. Mix one tablespoonful of flour in one pint of cold water, and stir it over the fire until boiling; put in a lump of butter, stir until the butter has dissolved, then squeeze in a small quantity of lemon juice. Chop some pickled walnuts, put them into the sauce., allow them to simmer all together for a few minutes, then serve. White Sauce. Put four ounces of butter into a small saucepan and melt it ; then add one tea- cupful of flour that has been dried in the oven, and a chopped shallot, and stir over the fire until well incorporated Then pour in slowly sufficient white broth to make a thin sauce, and let it simmer gently by the side of the fire for an hour and a half, stirring it occasionally to prevent it sticking to the saucepan. Beat one wineglassful of white wine with a small quantity of cream, mix it with the sauce, and turn it into a jar until ready to serve. Wine Sauce for Fish. Put one teacupful each of stock and wine into a saucepan, and if the fish has been cooked in wine, mix in also the cooking liquor. Put a lump of butter and a tablespoonful of flour in a fryingpan, and stir it over the fire till browned, then mix it in with the sauce. Stir the sauce over the fire till boiling; then strain it through ;i fine hair-sieve into another saucepan; skim off all the fat as it rises, and let it simmer 536 SAUCES. by the side of the fire for a few minutes. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, mix a pinch of cayenne in the sauce, and serve Woodcock Liver Sauce. Put two tablespoonfuls each of port wine and cullis, and the pounded bones and livers of six roasted woodcocks into a saucepan, and let the liquor simmer till of the consistency of cream; then strain, and add the strained juice of two oranges and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Yellow Sauce. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan. When it has melted, stir in one tablespoonful of flour that has been mixed with a little milk, and stir this over the fire untii well mixed, but not browned at all; then pour in by degrees, while still stirring, one pint of milk and white stock, mixed in equal quantities, add one large carrot cut into halves, one small onion, a few sprigs of parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Put into the sauce whatever meat is intended for the fricassee, and stew it gently by the side of the fire until tender, with the lid placed tightly on the saucepan. Strain the sauce through a silk sieve into another saucepan, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Serve while hot. Sweet Sauces for Puddings, etc. Apple Sauce. A few good "falling" apples are to be sliced and placed in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover the apples, then stew with the lid on until well done, say about half an hour. While stewing put in a small lump of butter and mash with a silver fork or spoon. No sugar is to be added. Arrowroot Sauce. Mix two dessertspoonfuls of arrowroot with each half pint of milk (or white wine) used, and sufficient sugar to sweeten. Add a little grated orange or lemon peel, and then stir over a slow fire, and when thick remove to one side. Ten minutes afterwards remove the peel, and add a very small quantity of rum, or of maraschino or any other liquor. This is to be used for pouring over light puddings. Apricot Sauce. Cut some apricots in halves, remove and break the stones, blanch and pound the kernels and place, together with the fruit, in a saucepan with enough water to prevent them from burning. Pour over them a wine-glassful of Madeira wine, and when the fruit is stewed quite soft, add sufficient sugar to sweeten, and a thickening of flour or arrowroot mixed with some water. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a sauce- boat, and it is ready for use. Apricot jam and sherry may be substituted for the fresh apricots and Madeira, if desired. Brandy Butter Sauce for Sweets. Beat to a cream the desired quantity of granulated sugar with half that amount of butter, add a little brandy and essence of nutmeg; place on ice and use as re- quired. Caramel Sauce. Put eight tablespoonfuls of white sugar into a saucepan upon the fire with two tablcspoonfuls of water; stir it constantly with a wooden spoon for three or four min- utes until all the water evaporates, and watch it carefully until it turns to a delicate brown color. In the meantime put into another saucepan twelve ounces of sugar, half the yellow rind of a lemon sliced thin, two inches of stick cinnamon and a quart 537 538 SWEET SAUCES. of cold water; bring these gradually to the boil and let them simmer for ten min- utes; add one wineglassful of wine or half the quantity of brandy. Strain the liquid into the caramel quickly, mix them together well, and serve the sauce with any pud- ding desired. Chaudeau Sauce. Put the yolks of eight and the whites of two eggs into a lined saucepan with the strained juice of half a lemon, one-fourth pound each of lemon sugar and loaf sugar, and one quart of chablis, and whisk this over a slow fire until a light froth is formed. When the sauce is on the point of boiling, remove the saucepan from the fire, beat the sauce a few minutes longer, and serve it. Cranberry Sauce. Wash well two breakfast cupfuls of cranberries and place them in a saucepan with one-half pint of cold water; sprinkle over the top one teacupful of moistened sugar, cover the pan and cook for half an hour; then mash the berries with a spoon, remove the pan from the fire, and stir up well; it will then be ready for use. Burnt Cream Sauce. The following sauce may be used either for custard or batter pudding. Put two ounces of granulated sugar into a small saucepan and stir it over the fire until a dark brown; pour in slowly with the sugar one teacupful of thin cream, or two tablespoon- fuls of milk and two tablespoonfuls of cream, and continue stirring the sauce over the fire until the cream is hot, then turn it into a sauceboat, and serve. Cherry Sauce. Take two or three handfuls of sour cherries, remove the stones and stems, pound them in a mortar, with their kernels, and put them in a stewpan. Then add a lump of sugar, a glass of claret, a bit of lemon zest and cinnamon, and boil until the cherries are nicely done; then strain them through a sieve, return them to the pan, and thicken with one tablcspoonful of corn starch mixed with a little cold water. Boil it up again, and add six tablespoonfuls of preserved cherries, previously dipped in warm water. Chocolate Sauce. Put one ounce of chocolate in a lined saucepan with half a pint of milk, and a few drops of essence of vanilla; sweeten to taste and stir over the fire until boiling. Heat the yolks of lour eggs, stir with the boiling sauce at the side of the fire until thickened, but do not let it boil again. SWEET SAUCES. Cinnamon Sauce. 539 Take a stick of cinnamon, break it into small pieces, and put into a pan with three ounces of sugar and a trifle over one pint of water; place this on the fire, and after it has boiled up once, skim and strain it into a basin. Mix a little arrowroot, or corn starch with some cold water, place it in the pan, and take out the cinnamon. Boil it once more and it is then ready for use. Black Currant Jelly Sauce. Into a saucepan put two tablespoonfuls of flour with one nicely chopped onion and two ounces of butter; stir over the fire until browned, then pour in half a pint of clear gravy; add a bay leaf, a little lemon peel, two tablespoonfuls of crushed juniper berries, one wineglassful of red wine, and one tablespoonful each of vinegar and chili vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste, stir it over the fire and boil for eight or ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve before serving. Red Currant Jelly Sauce. Put into a saucepan half a teacupful of red currant jelly, with half a teacupful of sherry wine, a tablespoonful of caster sugar, and the strained juice of half a lemon. Stir the sauce over the fire until the jelly has dissolved, then add a few drops of cochineal, just sufficient to tinge, and a small quantity of powdered mace. The sauce is then ready for serving. Diplomatic Sauce for Pudding. Boil one-half pound of sugar in boiling water, then thicken it with flour. Let the sauce simmer until clear, then mix with it some red fruit juice or white or red wine, a little pounded mace, and the juice of halt a lemon. English Sweet Sauce. Put into a saucepan the yolks of four eggs with four or five ounces of powdered sugar, and stir with a spatula until it becomes a whitish color. Add two gills of sweet cream, little by little, beating constantly, and grate in the rind of one orange. Place the pan on a slow stove, and stir the contents well for four minutes, being care- ful not to let them boil. Take the pan off, strain the sauce through a sieve, and it is ready for use. Fruit Sauce. Stew one breakfast cupful each of cherries, plums and green gages with a very little water and loaf sugar to taste; rub the fruit through a fine hair-sieve into another 540 SWEET SAUCES. stewpan, crack the stones and pound the kernels and blend them with the fruit. Mix one tcaspoonful of cornstarch with a little water, stir it in with the fruit and continue stirring over the fire until the sauce boils and thickens, add a wineglassful of port wine and the juice of half a lemon. This sauce may be served with puddings, pies, or blancmanges. Fruit Sauce for Batter Pudding. Mix with a fork equal parts of warmed butter and granulated sugar, together with enough fruit juice or essence to flavor the sauce palatably. German Sauce for Puddings. Beat the yolks of half a dozen fresh eggs for about twenty minutes ; put one- fourth pound of sugar into a lined saucepan with one-fourth pint of marsala ; stir it over the fire until hot, then move it to the side, as it must not be permitted to boil. Stir the beaten yolks in with the wine, and add the strained juice of a small lemon. Whisk the sauce at the side of the fire until well frothed and thickened, when it will be ready tor serving. Ginger Sauce. Bruise one or two pieces of whole ginger; put them in a saucepan with three ounces of loaf sugar and one pint of water and boil for several minutes; then skim and strain the liquor. Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, stir in the above liquor, return it to the stewpan, and stir over the fire until thickened and boiling. It is then ready to be served. Golden Sauce. Break a nutmeg in pieces, put it in a saucepan with a quart of water, and boil. Mix two ounces of corn starch with one pound of sugar, then stir it into the boiling water, and stir over the fire until the corn starch is cooked, then add one-fourth pound of butter. Beat the yolks of three eggs with one tablespoonful of the sauce, then stir them quickly into the remainder, which should be immediately removed as the yolks will curdle if boiled. Strain the sauce, and it is then ready for serving. Hard Sauce. Put in a bowl two ounces of fresh butter with four ounces of powdered loaf sugar; then mix with a spidula, beating together sharply for twenty minutes, add one- half coffeespoonful of powdered mace, beat briskly for about five minutes longer, ar- range it on a dish, and place it on the ice two minutes before serving. SWEET SAUCES. 541 Kirsch Sauce. Pour into a saucepan one pint of cold water and one-half pound of granulated sugar, and place it over a hot fire. Mix one ounce of corn starch in a cup with one gill of cold water, and when the water in the saucepan is boiling, add the corn starch to it, stirring it well for two minutes with a whisk. Remove from the fire and add immediately one-half gill of kirsch and stir again for a minute. Strain through a fine sieve into a sauceboat, and serve very hot. Lemon Butter Sauce. Put one tablespoonful of corn starch and two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar into a saucepan ; grate in the rind of one lemon, and then stir in one-half pint of boil- ing water, the juice of half a lemon, and a small piece of butter ; add by degrees the beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring it over the fire for a minute or so, using care to see that the eggs do not curdle. This sauce can be served with puddings, or, with the whipped white of an cg^ added, can be used to fill paste-lined patty-pans for tarts or cheese cakes. Lemon Sauce for Puddings. Boil one pint of water and one breakfast cupful of sugar for five minutes, then stir in three large teaspoonfuls of corn starch previously mixed with a little cold water, stir over the fire for ten minutes, then add the grated rind and juice of one lemon and one tablespoonful of butter. When the butter is melted the sauce is ready to be served Sweet Madeira Sauce. Beat well the yolks of half a dozen eggs, pour them into a lined stewpan, and stir in three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of one lemon, and two and one-half wineglassfuls of Madeira wine. Whisk the mixture over the fire until of a thick yellow froth, then remove it and serve with as little delay as possible. On no account must the sauce boil, or the eggs will curdle. Marmalade Sauce. Put one breakfast cupful of marmalade into a small saucepan with two wine- glassfuls of white wine, and stir over a gentle fire until hot. Strain the sauce and it is then ready for serving. Brandy and water in equal parts may be substituted for the wine if preferred. 542 SWEET SAUCES. Sauce for Plum Pudding. Put one large tablespoonful of butter into a stewpan, when it has melted stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix well; then pour in gradually one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of hot water, and stir over the fire until cooked; then add one-half pound of brown sugar, two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. When the sugar has dissolved, serve the sauce. Prune Sauce. Place half a pound of prunes in a saucepan, with a little water, and boil them until they are soft; then remove the stones from the fruit, break them up small in a mortar, and put them in with the fruit, adding a thin strip of lemon-peel, and the strained juice of one lemon, together with sugar to the taste, add a small quantity of powdered cinnamon, and one and a half wineglassfuls of port wine; let the sauce simmer at the edge of the fire for a few minutes, then rub it through a coarse wire sieve, and serve. Raspberry Sauce. Squeeze the juice from a sufficient quantity of ripe raspberries to make one-half pint, pour it in a small lined saucepan, adding the juice of a lemon, sweeten to taste with sugar, and place it over the fire until boiling. Put one tablespoonful of arrow- root in a basin, strain the juice and pour it into the basin with the arrowroot. Return the whole to the saucepan and stir it over the fire until thick and boiling again. The sauce is then ready for use. If the fresh raspberries cannot be had, one breakfast cupful of raspberry jam can be used with one-half pint of water. Use the lemon juice, but if sufficiently sweet, the sugar may be omitted. Raspberry Butter Sauce. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a basin, slightly warm it and work in one- half pound of loaf sugar crushed and sifted. Pour in enough raspberry juice to color and flavor it, when it is ready for use. Sabayon Sauce. Put into a stewpan the yolks of eight eggs and one-half pound of powdered sugar, mix well and moisten with one wineglassful of white wine. Place the stew pan over a slow fire and whip the contents continually until it is quite as frothy as whipped cream. It should then be served immediately, either in custard glasses or spread out over the pudding with which it is to be served. SWEET SAUCES. 543 Sabayon Sauce with Madeira. Put into a saucepan the yolks of four raw eggs, and one and one-half ounces of powdered sugar; place it on a hot stove and with a wire whisk beat for two minutes. Drop in gradually two gills or so of Madeira wine, stir constantly for two minutes, take from the fire and strain through from a fine sieve over the pudding with which it is to be served. Sweet Sauce. Put one teacupful of cream into a saucepan and boil it. Mix one teaspoonful of flour with one wineglassful of sherry, stir it into the boiling cream, add a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and sweeten to taste with sugar. Let the sauce simmer by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring constantly, and then serve. Swiss Sauce. Put one teacupful of cream into a saucepan, and, when boiling, mix with it one wineglassful of sherry that has been thickened with one teaspoonful of flour. Sweeten to taste with sugar, grate a little nutmeg over, and boil it for fifteen minutes. The sauce is then ready for serving. Transparent Sauce. Mix one tablespoonful of corn starch with one teacupful of sugar in a saucepan, then stir in one-half pint of boiling water, and add half a lemon cut into slices and a small lump of butter. Stir the sauce over the fire, and boil until transparent. It is then ready for serving with fritters. Vanilla Sauce. Pour one pint of milk into a saucepan and put in a vanilla bean and sugar to taste; boil it and then remove the saucepan from the fire. Beat the yolks of three with two tablespoonfuls of flour and add them to the milk; stir the sauce over a slow fire until thick, but do not allow it to boil. Whip the whites of three egL, r s to a stiff froth with one table-spoonful of sugar, mix the froth with the sauce, and serve. Vanilla Cream Sauce. This is to be served with hot cakes, such as baba. Boil one pint of cold milk in a saucepan. Put three yolks of eggs in a small basin with two ounces of powdered sugar, one ounce of flour and a piece of vanilla stick one inch long. Beat these well together with a wire whip for two minutes, pour the mixture into the'boiling milk, 544 SWEET SAUCES. stir it again briskly with the whisk until it boils, remove from the fire and add one- half gill of maraschino. Beat again for one minute and pour the cream nicely over the cake before sending to the table. Yellow Sauce for Puddings. Warm one-fourth pound of butter in a basin, but do not let it boil, and beat it to a cream with one-fourth pound of brown sugar; stand the basin in a saucepan con- taining boiling water, stir the sugar and butter until liquid, and then add the beaten yolks of an egg or two. Keep on stirring with the saucepan placed over a gentle fire until the sauce is thick, then mix in with it one teacupful of brandy, or wine if pre- ferred, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. The sauce should be served without delay. Garnishings. How to Prepare a Garnished Bouquet. Procure four branches of thoroughly washed parsley-stalks, a branch of soup- celerv also thoroughly cleansed, a blade of bay leaf, a sprig of thyme and a couple of cloves placed in the middle of the parsley so as to prevent them from dropping apart; fold it together and tie it with a string. Preparing Croquettes. A good deal of care and practice are required to make croquettes nicely. The meat must be chopped fine, the ingredients well mixed, and the mixture as moist as possible without preventing the formation. When shaping them take a tablcspoonful or so of the mixture, and with both hands work it into the form of a cylinder. Handle the mixture as gently as possible, for too much pressure will force the particles apart and spoil the shape. Sprinkle a board lightly with bread or cracker- crumbs, and roll the croquettes very gently on this. Allow them to remain on the board until they are finished, when, if any have become flattened, roll them into shape again. Cover a board thickly with crumbs, have some beaten eggs salted slightly, in a deej) plate; hold a croquette in the left hand and, with a brush in the right, cover it with the ^'i;;^; roll it in the crumbs, and keep on doing this until they are covered. Place a few at a time in a frying basket— not allowing them to touch each other — and plunge the basket into boiling fat; cook until they are of a rich brown. Take them up, lay on paper, and let drain. Crouton of Fried Bread. Remove all the crust from a loaf of bread and trim the crumb into a block eight inches high by six inches square at the base, and taper it off to three and a half inches at the top. Place in a pan a large lump of clarified butter or lard put over the fire until it begins to boil, then put the bread in and fry it, turning it until nicely browned on all sides. Drain the bread on a sieve, and stick onto a dish with some paste made of flour and the white of an c^, which will retain it firmly where it is placed. Croutons. Cut some slices a third of an inch in thickness off a kitchen loaf and cut from these with an ordinary paste-cutter or a sharp knife, crescents, squares, lozenges, ob- 543 546 GARNISHINGS. longs, ovals, rounds, stars, or any other shape desired; fry them in boiling fat, but using butter in preference. The frying basket gives a more even color, but the fry- ingpan, with plenty of fat, butter or oil, may be used, if more convenient. Drain on a cloth or paper before using. For Soups: Cut the slices of bread half an inch thick, and then into dice. Fry them as before, drain and serve in a deep plate, or silver covered dish. Bread Croutons for Entrees. Cut into slices half an inch in thickness some bread, and form into heart-shaped pieces about two inches in length; melt in a fryingpan some butter and fry the bread in it until it is a light yellow, being careful to color all alike. Bread Croutons for Entremets. Cut some slices of bread half an inch thick, removing all crust, and cut the crumb into inch and a half triangular pieces, trim off the angles and fry to a golden color in butter, Bread Croutons for Soup. Slices of bread a quarter of an inch in thickness are cut into quarter-inch dice, after removing all crust. Heat in a pan some clarified butter, and fry in it the croutons until they are of a light golden color, tossing them about to insure equal color to all. Drain on a sheet of paper, and serve. Bread Croutons a la Conde for Soup. Cut off from rolls or slices of bread the dark crusts, and cut the bread into dice, placing them on tin in the oven to brown. Then remove, and serve in soup plates with soup. Dumplings for Broth. Sift together one teaspoonful of baking powder and one heaped breakfast cupful of flour; add a pinch of salt and mix to a smooth soft dough with water Drop small quantities of this with a spoon into the broth where they should float, and put on the lid. When they are about three-parts clone, put the saucepan into the oven, first removing the lid and brown the tops of the dumplings, basting them once with the liquor. Sago Dumplings for Soup, (German). Boil the requisite quantity of sago in milk, stirring it with a wooden spoon until it is thick and clear; turn it onto a dish in a layer about one inch thick and leave it until it is cold. Then cut it into small rounds with a tin cutter and form them into GARNISHINGS. 547 balls. Pour boiling soup into a tureen; dip the balls in beaten egg, put them in the soup, and serve. Egg Balls for Soup. Pound in a mortar one tcaspoonful of ham or tongue; add the yolk of a hard- boiled egg, a little boiled and finely-minced parsley and a seasoning of grated nut- meg and cayenne. When well-mixed, add the yolk of a raw egg and form the mass into small balls; plunge these into a saucepan of boiling milk, poach for two or three minutes, add them to the hot soup for which they are made, and serve. Egg Balls for Turtle Soup. Put the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs into a basin, break them up and mix them with the volk of a raw egg. Form the paste into small balls, plunge them into a saucepan of boiling water and let them remain for two minutes to get hard. They arc then ready for use. Poached Eggs for Soup. Put into a saucepan of boiling salted water half a wineglassful of vinegar, keep- ing it on the side of the fire to boil gently. Break some eggs separately into a cup, pour them gently into the boiling water, cover over the pan and let them remain for three minutes. A few only should be put in at a time. When done take them out with a perforated slice, and plunge them into cold water. Remove, pare them round- shaped and either put them into a tureen with the soup or serve separately on a dish. Forcemeats. This term is a corruption of farce-meats, from the French facir — to stuff. American Forcemeat. Place in a saucepan two very finely-chopped onions with one ounce of butter on the fire for five minutes. Soak the crumb of a loaf of bread in water for fifteen min- utes ; press out all the water and put the crumb in a bowl with three eggs, one table- spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of pepper, one tablespoonful of sage, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, three skinned sausages and a pinch of chopped parsley ; add the cooked onions and mix well together. The forcemeat is then ready for use. Forcemeat Balls. Take one pound of beef suet and three pounds of veal ; put them in a mortar with a few herbs, a little grated nutmeg, dried mace, finely-chopped lemon peel, salt and pepper; and pound them well, adding the yolks of two eggs to bind the mass. Form it into balls, roll them in flour and fry in butter to a light brown color. 548 GARNISHINGS. Forcemeat Balls for Soup. Chop one breakfast cupful of any cooked meat, add a saltspoonful each of thyme and salt, and half the quantity of pepper, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, a few drops of onion juice and one teaspoonful of minced parsley. Beat the yolk of an egg and add sufficient of it to moisten the meat. Roll the mixture into balls about the size of walnuts, put them into a deep plate, dust over with flour, and shake the. plate with a circular motion to get the balls well covered. Put them in an omelet pan with a tablespoonful of butter over a moderate fire, shaking it occasionally so that the balls are cooked all over, and when done and a good brown color, they are ready for use. Forcemeat Balls for Turtle Soup. Cut off a very small portion of the vealy part of a turtle, mince it very fine and mix it up with a small quantity of boned anchovy and boiled celery, the yolks of one or two hard-boiled eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sifted breadcrumbs, with mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of warmed butter and well-beaten egg. Form the paste into balls, plunge them into a fryingpan of boiling butter or fat, fry them to a good color and they are then ready for use. They should be added hot to the sou]). Chicken Forcemeat. Take sufficient meat from a cooked chicken so that after it has been pounded and passed through a fine hair-sieve there will be one pound of the puree; add to this ten ounces of veal udder, boiled and pounded the same as the chicken, and mix well, adding another ten ounces of panada made with some good stock and seasoning with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Pound all the foregoing well together and moisten with reduced allemande sauce until it is of good consistence. Take a small piece and plunge it into boiling water or stock, and if it is too thick add a little double cream or a little more of the sauce. It is then ready for use. Chicken Forcemeat for Patties. Remove the skin from a chicken, take off all the flesh from the bones and pound it to a pulp in a mortar. Soak half a pound of breadcrumbs in milk, take it out and squeeze it dry, then rub three ounces of warmed butter into it; put in the meat, add a little grated nutmeg and salt to taste; moisten with the yolks of four eggs and form the forcemeat into balls. A thin slice of ham or cooked bacon may be wrapped around each piece and is a great improvement. It is well to add a little chopped parsley. Game Forcemeat. Take any cold cooked game; remove the flesh from the bones, weigh it, and for every pound of meat add four ounces of fat bacon, a little shallot, capers, a few GARNISHINGS. 549 leaves of tarragon and a little lemon peel, all finely mixed. Put some crumbs of bread into a basin with a little milk; when it has absorbed sufficient of it, take it out and squeeze dry, adding it to the mixture with the yolks of three eggs. Sprinkle over pepper to the taste, and mix in the whites of three eggs whipped to a froth. If unsalted bacon is used, very little dry salt must be added. Forcemeat of Goose's Fat Liver. Put into a mortar one pound of fat liver with three ounces of boiled and cooled calf's udder and seven ounces of bread panada, and pound them well together; add a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to the taste and pass it through a fine wire-sieve. Return it to the mortar again, pound it and add the yolks of five eggs, one at a time, taking care to mix one in thoroughly before adding another. The forcemeat should then be put in a basin in a cool place until wanted for use. Forcemeat of Ham. Chop fine about two pounds of cooked lean ham, put into a mortar, and pound well. Put one pound of breadcrumbs and one pint of milk into a saucepan, place it over a slow fire, and boil until the crumbs are soft and smooth; add a little cavenne, one-half pint of brown sauce, one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of mustard. Place it one side to cool, and then make into a mass with the yolks of four eggs. It will then be ready for use, cither as a border, or for game pies, or for quenelles. Forcemeat of Hare's Liver. Place the livers of two or three hares in a mortar, and pound to a pulp, with about one-half their bulk of beef-kidney suet and bacon fat in equal proportions. Season with ground cloves, pepper and salt. If enough hare's livers are not obtain- able, a little of the flesh can be used. Add a little cream, and mix in the volks of two eggs in order to make the forcemeat of proper consistence. Put it into a stewpan and set it over the fire for ten or twelve minutes, stirring constantly until it becomes quite stiff, when it will be ready to serve with the game. Lobster Forcemeat. Fry an onion, chopped fine, in an ounce of butter until it is a golden color, add- ing a tablespoonful of flour to make a roux. Moisten with half a pint of stock, stirring well and often until the sauce hardens. Season with half a tablespoonful of salt, a little white pepper, the same of cayenne, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, half a teaspoonful of mustard, a crushed grain of garlic, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Stir this well, adding two pounds of cooked lobster cut in small pieces, with twelve mushrooms, also chopped up very small. Cook for thirty min- 550 GARNISHINGS. utes in a saucepan, then put it back off the hot fire; add the yolks of four eggs, stir again for a moment, cool, and use as required. Forcemeat of Mushrooms. Take one-fourth pound of button mushrooms, peel off the upper skin, cut off the stems, and, after pounding, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter; put in the mushrooms and stew slowly for about eight minutes, adding a little cayenne and ground allspice; turn them onto a plate, leaning them against one an- other, so that the fat will drain, and let them get cold; then chop very fine, and add one-fourth pound of breadcrumbs, season with a little grated nutmeg, mace, cayenne and salt, add a little butter, and mix the whole with the yolks of two eggs to make the mass firm, and pour in sufficient of the gravy from the mushrooms to render it of the desired thickness. Form it into balls, and either poach them for six minutes for soup, or fry them for seven minutes in butter, and use them to garnish roast poultry. Partridge Forcemeat. Put an equal quantity of partridge and chicken flesh cut in small pieces in a mortar and pound it; rub it through a fine hair-sieve and mix with it ten ounces of udder of veal previously boiled, pounded and passed through the sieve. When well mixed add ten ounces of bread that has been soaked in a little stiffly reduced stock, and season with salt, pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Mix the whole thoroughly, then add one teacupful of Spanish sauce reduced with essence of partridge. It is then ready for use. Pheasant Forcemeat. Chop twelve ounces of pheasant and eight ounces of chicken meat together, put it in a mortar, pound it and then pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Pound and pass through the sieve ten ounces of boiled udder of veal, mix it with the pounded meat, and work it up with twelve ounces of bread panada; sprinkle over it a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and mix the whole thoroughly with a teacupful of reduced Spanish sauce. Test a small piece of the forcemeat by poaching it in boiling water, and if it is too stiff mix a little more of the sauce with it. Forcemeat for Pies. Chop half a pound of fat bacon with one pound of veal with the skin and fat taken off, add a little powdered herbs and mushroom catsup, two eggs, and a little salt to season. Mix well, roll up into balls and use for pies or any made dishes. Forcemeat for Pigeons. Put into a basin two ounces of butter and heat it until it is nearly a cream, then add a quarter of a pound of breadcrumbs, a little finely-minced parsley, lemon peel, GARNISHINGS. 551 ground mace, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and bind the mass together with a well beaten egg. Pike Forcemeat. Cut off the fillets of a cold boiled pike, rub them through a fine hair-sieve, weigh them, and to every pound of fish, add ten ounces of bread-panada and ten ounces of butter; mix well, season with salt and pepper, stir in two beaten eggs and moisten with reduced lean veloute sauce thickened with egg. When of the proper consis- tency for forcemeat, it is readv for use. Pork Forcemeat with Bacon. Cut into slices a pound each of lean pork and lean bacon and place them in a stewpan with enough water to prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pan, add a couple of ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of pepper and one onion cut into small pieces; cover over the pan and put it on the fire, letting it simmer gently until the meat is quite tender, then remove from the fire and mince very fine. Pour into the pan with the gravy a breakfast cupful of milk and add a little mace, herbs, salt and pepper to taste, together with six well-beaten eggs, stir thoroughly and add the meat. Line a circular tin dish with light paste and pour in the mixture, cover over with a lid of the paste, making a hole in the top and bake until done in a moder- ate oven. After it has become cold, turn out onto a dish, and serve. Forcemeat Rissoles. Roll about a quarter of a pound of good puff paste on a board to the thickness of about half an inch and cut it into small rounds with a paste-cutter; put a little forcemeat on each one, wet the edges and cover them over with another round of paste. Mark the top with the | taste-cutter and press round the edges. Put some butter into a fryingpan, and when it is boiling put in the rissoles and fry them until done. Take them out, drain, and serve on a dish-paper. Forcemeat of Shrimps. Take two or three breakfast cupfuls of shrimps, remove the shells, chop them up into very fine pieces and add an equal quantity of breadcrumbs, a little mace, and salt and pepper. Put this in a mortar and pound it with about three ounces of butter into a firm paste. Add the yolk of an egg to form the mixture into a smooth paste and use it for stuffing a fish to be baked. Forcemeat for Roasted Suckling Pig. Parboil one or two small onions, chop them very fine, and add half an ounce of powdered sage, six ounces of sifted breadcrumbs and four ounces of butter; season 552 GARMSHINGS. with cayenne, salt and pepper, and add one egg to bind it into a mass. It will then be ready for use. If preferred, the onion may be left out of the stuffing altogether. Truffle Forcemeat. Peel and wash one or two pounds of truffles; put them in a saucepan with a little butter, warm them, add an equal amount of calf's udder or scraped bacon and a little minced sweet herbs; when warm, turn the whole into a mortar and pound thoroughly. Sprinkle over a seasoning of pepper and salt, mix in some breadcrumbs soaked in milk, and sufficient yolks of eggs to give the forcemeat the required consistency. It is then ready for use. Forcemeat for Roasted Turkey or Veal. Take two ounces each of breadcrumbs and beef suet finely-minced, and add any seasoning required, such as sweet marjoram, lemon, thyme, finely-chopped parsley, etc., salt and pepper to taste, and moisten with egg, well beaten, to make it into a mass. Veal Forcemeat. Chop one pound of beef suet, and half that quantity of lean veal, and mix them together. Season the mixture with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg; place it in a mortar and pound, then stir in four eggs that have been beaten with a little water and one tablespoonful of .chopped parsley. When well mixed, the forcemeat is ready for use. Veal Forcemeat (for Balls or Stuffing). Take some lean veal, chop it finely and put it into a mortar with one-third its quantity of either fine-shredded suet or butter and the same of stale breadcrumbs, then put it in a basin with a little milk and when thoroughly soaked take out and squeeze dry; pound well, adding a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, pour it over the mixture to bind it, make a firm paste and use it either made into balls and fried or as stuffing. Veal Forcemeat Balls (for Mock Turtle Soup). Take the crumb of two or three French rolls, put it into a saucepan with suffi- cient rich gravy to cover it, place the pan by the side of the fire and let it boil gently until quite done. Remove it, squeeze out all the liquor, put it into another saucepan over the fire and stir it until quite dry; then add the yolks of two eggs, and allow it to cool. Put one-fourth pound of lean veal into a mortar, pound it and add the breadcrumb mixture and three or four ounces of butter. Season it to taste with grated nutmeg salt, pepper, cayenne and mare, and, il liked, a little well-pounded lean ham. Roll the paste into balls and boil for twelve minutes before putting into mock turtle soup. GARN1SHINGS. 553 Veal Forcemeat Stuffing for Fish. Make four ounces of bread panada and mix with it four ounces of finely-minced cooked veal, two ounces of chopped fat salt pork and suet, the juice of half a lemon, one-half teaspoonful each of powdered savoury and thyme and a little ground mace; add a seasoning of salt and pepper and bind the whole with a beaten egg. The stuf- fing is then ready for use. Of course it can be made in larger or smaller quantities, according to the size of the fish. Veal Forcemeat (for Boiled Turkey). Take one-half pound of lean veal, chop it fine with a small quantity of beef suet, a few oysters, and two anchovies, and add some breadcrumbs mixed with the yolks of eggs and a few herbs. When the turkey is prepared for boiling, stuff the crop with the forcemeat, and boil. Admiral Garnish. This is a fish garnish made up of boiled crayfish tails and prawns, mussels masked with villeroy sauce, covered with breadcrumbs and fried in fat and parsley, all placed in groups around the dish. Artichoke Bottoms for Garnish. Cut off all the top leaves and trim the under ones, put into a saucepan of slightly salted water, and boil until the skin can be easily removed. Then remove, skin, trim and turn them, and place in a saucepan with some flour, water, salt, lemon and butter, and cook until tender. Remove the pan from the fire, and let them get quite cold in the mixture, and take out when wanted. Bayard Garnish. This is made up of truffle, tongue, mushrooms, artichokes, Madeira, Spanish sauce, bread and goose's fat liver, prepared as follows: Cut a truffle into very thin round slices, also a little cooked smoked beef tongue, three mushrooms and two artichoke bottoms. Put them all in a saucepan on the fire with half a wineglassful of Madeira, boil for about five minutes or until reduced to one-half its original bulk; add a breakfast cupful of Spanish sauce and cook for a quarter of an hour longer. Surround the dish with croutons of bread covered with slices of cooked goose's fat liver. Beef Marrow Garnishing. Open two fine marrow bones by setting them upright on the table, the marrow part on top, and with a sharp blow with a cleaver splitting them in two, striking them on one side only Remove the marrow, put it in freshly-salted water and let it re- 554 GARNISHINGS. main for one hour; then take it up, drain, and cut it in slices. Heat one-half pint of Madeira sauce, add the pieces of marrow, a few drops of tarragon vinegar and let it boil up once. Serve with the slices of marrow on top. Bordeaux Garnish, (Bordelaise.) This is composed of shallots, wine, Spanish sauce and beef marrow prepared as follows: Chop fine a peeled shallot, put it in a sautepan with half a wineglassful of red wine and cook for five minutes; then add half a pint of Spanish sauce, a small quantity of cayenne and cook for five minutes longer. Serve poured over fillets of beef or steaks, place over six slices of beef marrow, previously parboiled for half a minute. Cardoons for Garnish. Select white and sound cardoons, cut them into lengths of three inches each, remove all the prickly part from the sides, plunge them into a basin of water and blanch for twenty minutes. Take them out, rub off the skin, put them on a wire sieve on an oval-shaped saucepan, cover them over with very thin slices of bacon and pour over a mixture made with flour, clarified broth-fat and stock; then add one onion, two cloves, one faggot, a little pepper and salt to suit taste and a few slices of lemon minus the pips. Place the pan on the side of the fire and simmer gently until done. Remove, drain, and they are then ready for use. Carrots for Garnish. Blanch some young carrots in boiling water, rub off their skins and trim them with a knife in equalized pear shapes; then drain and put them into a saucepan with some chicken consomme, add some salt, pepper and sugar and boil till they are done. Reduce the liquor so as to glaze the carrots, and serve. Cepes for Garnishing. Cut four cepes into pieces, and cook them in a stewpan for three or four minutes, with one tablespoonful of olive oil and half a clove of crushed garlic. Moisten with one-half pint of Spanish sauce, and serve. Chambord Garnish. This is made of mushrooms, fish quenelles, Geneva sauce, truffles, crayfish, carp's soft roes, and villeroy sauce, prepared as follows: Cook some whole mushrooms and prepare small fish quenelles, moulding them with teaspoons, and when these are ready, mask with Geneva sauce. Boil some whole truffles and crayfish, remove the flesh from the tails, keeping it whole, and cook also some carp's soft roes in villeroy sauce. Arrange these, garnished in heaps, alternately with whole crayfish round the dish. GARNISHINGS. 555 Chicken Livers for Garnish. Blanch the livers of four chickens in boiling water for ten minutes, and put them in a saucepan with a little gravy, adding a saltspoonful each of salt and pepper, a bunch of thyme, a little parsley and a wineglassful of white wine. Place the pan over a good fire, cook for fifteen minutes, drain them, and they are ready for use. Chipolata Garnish. This is made of chestnuts, onions, mushrooms and chipolata sausages, prepared as follows: Blanch and cook in rich broth some chestnuts, glaze a few small onions, and cook some mushrooms in butter and lemon juice. Arrange them with the sausages round the dish, and mask with Madeira sauce. Chivry Garnish. This consists of oysters, potatoes, crayfish, mussels, villeroy sauce and bread- crumbs prepared as follows: Take some oyster bouchecs and potato croquettes; boil some crayfish and remove the tails, leaving the shells on; mask some mussels with villeroy sauce, cover with breadcrumbs and fry them in boiling fat. Arrange in small heaps round the dish. Commodore Garnish. This is made of crayfish, truffles, mussels, villeroy sauce and breadcrumbs as fol- lows: Prepare equal quantities of crayfish croquettes and quenelles, the latter highly seasoned with cayenne and masked with matelote sauce and boil some large whole truffles. Dip the required quantity of mussels into villeroy sauce, cover them with seasoned breadcrumbs and fry in boiling lard or other fat. Arrange the garnish in small heaps round the dish. Crayfish for Garnish. Take the desired number of crayfish and plunge them into boiling salted water in which a few chopped vegetables together with a little vinegar have been cooked. Place the pan on the fire and boil for eight or ten minutes longer. Toss them in the pan frequently until they are done. Durand Garnish. This is made of bacon, ham, sweetbreads, Spanish sauce, truffles, mushrooms, chicken quenelles, olives, cockscombs, beef palates, chicken livers, eggs, crayfish tails, oysters, gherkins, and sweet herbs prepared as follows: Place a large slice of fat bacon in a saucepan, when melted, remove any lean that there may be and add a slice of ham cut into small slices, a lump of fresh butter, and either a calf's or lamb's sweetbread cut into large dice; moisten with Spanish sauce and the dripping from a 556 GARNISHINGS. roasted leg of mutton carefully skimmed and passed through a tammy. Add thick slices of truffles, mushrooms, chicken quenelles, stoned olives stuffed with truffles- forcemeat, boiled blanched cockscombs and beef palates, the latter cut into dice, and lastly some chicken livers; simmer by the side of the fire, and just before serving, add the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, a few crayfish tails and four dozen oysters blanched and warmed for a minute in mutton gravy, and season with gherkins and mixed sweet herbs; when done, clear off all grease and pour the garnish over the joint it is about to be served with. D'Uxelles Garnish. This is composed of fine herbs and Madeira sauce prepared as follows: Reduce one breakfast cupful of cooked fine herbs with a teacupful of Madeira sauce in a saucepan on a moderately-heated stove for about ten minutes, or until it is thick. Financiere Garnish. For this cockscombs, sweetbreads, forcemeat quenelles, artichoke bottoms, mush- rooms and truffles, prepared as follows, are used: Take three cockscombs and blanch by steeping them in boiling water, dry and rub off the skin, soak them in water for several hours, dry and stew them in butter, lemon juice and a little salt, moistening with a small quantity of stock. When boiling add three lambs' sweetbreads, six forcemeat quenelles, five artichoke bottoms, six mushrooms and six truffles sliced. The garnish is then ready for use. Flemish Garnish. This is made with a cooked knuckle of ham, boiled bacon, sausages, German sausage, boiled carrots and turnips, and glazed onions. The larger part of the garnish is composed of well-boiled white cabbages which have been thoroughly dried in a saucepan; Brussels sprouts may also be used. This is an excellent garnish for rump steak, tenderloin of beef or roasted ham. Garnish for Game. This is composed of calf's kidneys, ham, parsley, tarragon and seasoning, pre- pared as follows: Scald half a calf's kidney and two small slices of ham and cut them into little pieces. Put three ounces of butter into a fryingpan and when it is hot lay in the meat; add a little parsley and tarragon, salt and pepper to taste, and three slices of lemon. Fry until the liver is of a light brown color and a little gravy has run from it. Godard Garnish. This is made of truffles, cockscombs, sweetbreads and forcemeat quenelles sea- soned and prepared as follows : Boil the required quantity of truffles, cockscombs GARNISHINGS. 557 and sweetbreads studded with fillets of truffles separately, in rich stock seasoned with salt and pepper, and boil also in the same liquor some large forcemeat quenelles. Arrange this garnish in small heaps round the dish. Gourmet Garnish. This is composed of artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, truffles, beef palates and Madeira wine and sauce, prepared as follows: Cut a cooked artichoke bottom, either fresh or canned into six pieces of equal size, put them into a saucepan with four mushrooms, two truffles and a small quantity of cooked beef palate, all cut into dice; add half a wineglassful of Madeira wine and cook for five minutes. Pour in one breakfast cupful of Madeira sauce, cook for five minutes longer, and it is then ready for use. Green Peas for Garnish. Boil the required quantity of green peas in salted water, taking care not to cook them too much, drain, put them into a sautepan with a little butter, and toss them over the fire for a lew minutes. Puree of Green Peas for Garnish. Put the peas in a saucepan with a few sprigs of mint and parsley, a small onion, a little salt, cover with water, and boil until tender. Drain and rub them through a fine hair-sieve, moisten with clear stock, bringing them to the consistency of a thick- puree. Put one ounce of butter and one teaspoonful of flour in a stewpan, mix well over the fire, then stir in the puree of peas. Stir over the fire again for two or three minutes, and when thoroughly hot they are ready to serve. Leeks for Garnish. Wash the leeks and trim them, cutting off the green close to the white. Place them in salted hot water and parboil. Drain, dry in a cloth, and cut them up rather small; put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little salt and pepper, sufficient stock to moisten, and stew gently until done; then mix in a little cream, or the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk. Mariniere Garnish. This is a fish garnish composed of mussels, cravfish, truffles and fish quenelles, as follows: Blanch some mussels and trim them; boil some truffles and crayfish, removing the tails and keeping them whole; prepare some fish quenelles highly seasoned with cayenne. Put some veloutc sauce into a fryingpan with a little of the liquor in which the mussels were blanched; let it thicken over the fire, then add the mussels, etc., and stir until hot. 558 GARNISHINGS. Matelote Garnish. This is composed of carp's soft roes, mussels, crayfish, mushrooms, truffles and onions, prepared as follows: Boil some soft roes of carp, blanch some mussels, cook some crayfish, and take out the meat from the tails, keeping them whole; glaze some truffles, mushrooms and small onions. Should the garnish be required to be dished in heaps, matelote sauce must be served in asauceboat; but if it is to be served other- wise, all the ingredients should be put into a sautepan with some matelote sauce, and stirred over the fire for a few minutes, so as to thicken the sauce. Milanese Garnish. This is composed of truffles, mushrooms, beef tongue, rice and cheese, cooked as follows with Madeira and tomato sauces: Cut two truffles, six mushrooms, and an equal quantity of cooked smoked tongue into pieces; put them into a saucepan with two breakfast cupfuls of boiled rice, a half pint of each of tomato and Madeira sauces, one tablespoonful of salt, a little pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese (either Parmesan or Gruyere). Cook for ten minutes before using. Montebello Garnish. For this, truffles with tomato and bearnaise sauce are prepared as follows : Pour one pint of tomato sauce in a saucepan and add an equal quantity of Bearnaise sauce and three sliced truffles; place the saucepan in the bain-marie, warm up without boil- ing, and it is ready for use. Mushroom Garnishing. Mince twelve mushrooms and place them in a saucepan with half a pint of Madeira sauce. Cook for five minutes and it is ready for use. Stewed Mushrooms tor Garnish. Clean and wash one pound of mushrooms, and cut them, with their stalks, into slices about one-fourth of an inch thick. Put one-fourth of a pound of butter into a frvingpan on the fire, and when the butter is quite hot, without being colored, add the mushrooms, with a little pepper and salt, and toss for four or five minutes. Then sprinkle with one ounce of flour, and toss them again for one minute longer; add one teacupful of broth, one tablespoonful each of minced parsley and shallot, and when they are of a light brown color they are done and ready for use. Normandy Garnish. This consists of fish quenelles, mussels, oysters, crayfish tails, mushrooms and Normandy sauce, as follows: Prepare tin- required quantity of quenelles, moulded GARNISHINGS. 559 with teaspoons, made of any kind of fish forcemeat, also blanch as many mussels and oysters as are wanted; cut some cooked mushrooms in rather thick slices and have ready some boiled crayfish tails taken out of the shells. Put the whole of these into a frying-pan with sufficient thick Normandy sauce to moisten, and stir them over the fire until hot. The garnish is then ready for use. Olives for Garnish. Remove the stones from some olives by cutting them round and round in a spiral form so that the olives may keep their shape. Put them in a saucepan, pour in stock and Chablis wine in equal proportions to cover, and stew slowly until they are done. Salmis of duck is generally garnished with this. Onion Garnish for Fricassee. Cut off a thin slice from both ends of two dozen large onions, put them into one quart of boiling water and blanch for ten minutes. Take them out, drain, and when they are cold, remove the yellow and first white skins; put them in a saucepan with two breakfast cupfuls of water, and a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar; boil slowly until done; remove and drain, and they are ready for use. They should be put into the fricassee at least five minutes before serving. Parisian Garnish. This consists of Madeira, mushrooms and truffles prepared as follows: Put half a wineglassful of Madeira into a saucepan with six sliced mushrooms and three sliced truffles and cook for four minutes; then add a breakfast cupful of Madeira sauce, cook for five minutes longer, and use as required. Peasant Garnish. This is composed of carrots, cucumbers and smoked sausages prepared as follows: Peel some large carrots, cut them into slices about half an inch thick, and blanch and braise them. Have ready also some broiled small sausages and cooked stuffed cucumbers, all cut .nto thickish slices. Arrange the slices alternately, overlapping each other round the dish. Providence Garnish. This is made of cooked mushrooms, small truffles, quenelles, and rounds of goose's fat livers, also stoned and blanched olives. Put them, when ready, into a sautepan with Madeira sauce, and stir over the fire until thickened. 560 GARNISHINGS. Provincial Garnish. This garnish is prepared with cooked mushrooms and stuffed tomatoes, arranged round the dish in alternate groups. It can be served with almost any entree, and should be accompanied with Madeira sauce. Regency Garnish. This consists of fish quenelles, truffles, crayfish tails, cock's kidneys and mush- rooms, as follows: Prepare some large fish quenelles decorated with truffles, also some cocks' kidneys and crayfish tails. Cook some mushrooms, mask them with Regency sauce and glaze some whole truffles. Arrange in separate heaps around the dish. Rouennese Garnish. This garnish is composed of turnips seasoned and cooked with Spanish sauce as follows: Cut three turnips into six pieces each with a vegetable cutter, put them in a sautepan with one ounce of butter, sprinkle over a little powdered sugar, put on the lid, and cook in the oven for ten minutes, shaking the pan frequently. Moisten with one pint of Spanish sauce, add salt and pepper to taste, cook for twenty minutes longer, skim off the fat and use when required. Smelts as Garnish. Clean and draw the smelts, fasten the tails in the openings at the gills with small wooden skewers so as to form rings, dip them in beaten egg and then in finely-grated breadcrumb, put them in a frying-basket and then plunge them into boiling fat. When nicely browned, drain the fish, remove the skewers and they will retain their ring shape. Soubise Garnish. This is made of onions prepared with broth and bechamel sauce as follows: Cut up three onions, put them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, half a breakfast cupful of white broth, a tablcspoonful of salt and one level saltspoonful of white pepper, cover the saucepan and cook for twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add two breakfast cupfuls of bechamel sauce and boil for five minutes longer. Strain through a cloth, pour it back into the saucepan, add more seasoning if required, also a little grated nutmeg and a little warm milk should it be too thick; warm up again and use quired. St. Nazaire Garnish. This garnish usually served with fish is made up of line herbs cooked as follows: Put three tablespoonfuls of court bouillon into a saucepan with a wineglassful of white wine, a tablcspoonful of cooked fine herbs, a breakfast cupful of allcinande GARNISHINGS. 561 sauce, salt and pepper to taste, and warm it all up. Pour the sauce over the fish it is to be served with and garnish with eight hot clams. Supreme Garnish. This is made up of rice, fowl and truffles, seasoned and cooked as follows: Wash thoroughly two ounces of rice, drain and put it into a saucepan with two breakfast cupfuls of white broth or stock. Pound the flesh from the wing of a cooked fowl in a mortar, add to it the rice, season with a tablcspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of white pepper and cook over a moderate fire for thirty minutes; strain through a fine hair-sieve, return it to the saucepan, add half an ounce of butter and three table- spoonfuls of cream, and warm slowly on the stove without boiling. Arrange this garnish in an artistic crown-shape round a hot dish, place the supreme in the renter and ornament the garnishing with thin slices of truffles; dip a little meat-glaze over it with a light hair brush, and serve. Suprcmcs of partridges, quails or sweetbreads can all be served with this garnish. Tomatoes tor Garnishing. Put six or eight large tomatoes at the bottom of a saucepan, laying them fiat and not one on top of the other, pouring over enough gravy to cover them. Cook slowlv for about twenty-five minutes, turning so as to leave them equally done, but not to injure them. Thicken the liquor with a little butter rolled in flour, season with a little cayenne and salt, boil up once, remove the pan from the fire, take out the tomatoes, and they are then ready lor use. Toulouse Garnish. This is made of goose's fat liver, mushrooms, sweetbreads, sheep's kidneys and truffles, prepared as follows: Cut some slices from a cooked goose's fat liver, having them of uniform size and shape; keep them hot over the fire in a buttered sautepan, and using, slightly glaze them. Cook some mushrooms in butter and lemon juice. braise some sweetbreads, and poach (or cook in water) some sheep's kidneys, masking all of them, when ready, with veloutc sauce. Trim some truffles as round as possible; boil them in wine and a small quantity of meat or fowl glaze, and afterwards brush them over with butter. A tureenful of Toulouse sauce should accompany. Turtle Garnish. This is made of mushrooms, truffles, brains, beef palates, olives, gherkins and chicken quenelles, as follows: Prepare and cook some mushrooms, large whole truffles and brains, also small rounds of beef palate, chicken quenelles moulded with tea- spoons, stoned olives and small balls of gherkins, cut out with a cutter. Put the mushrooms, truffles, palate, quenelles and olives into a sautepan with a little of the 5 6 2 GARNISHINGS. liquor from the turtle it is to be served with; let it thicken over the fire, and it is ready for use. The brains and gherkins are arranged on the top of the other ingredients. Truffles for Garnish. Choose large round truffles, wash them thoroughly, and peel them ; put the re- quired number into a saucepan, pour over sufficient chicken broth or champagne to nearly cover them, add an onion stuck with three or four cloves, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little of the skimmings of the chicken broth or fat. Place the saucepan on the fire and boil for fifteen minutes, with the lid on the pan; then remove it from the fire, and let the truffles cool in their liquor. Remove them, drain, and they are ready for use. Or they may be boiled for ten minutes, and then cut into various shapes. The trimmings from them, after they have been cooked, may be employed in making sauce, as well as the liquor in which they were cooked. Turnips for Garnish. Peel the turnips, and then cut them to any fancy shape desired, such as corks, balls, etc. Blanch them in boiling water for five minutes, leave them till cool, drain, and put them into a saucepan with sufficient broth to cook them in; season with a little salt and sugar, and boil the turnips till they are rather soft. They are then ready for garnish. Valencia Garnish. This is made of a truffle, mushrooms, beef-tongue and rice prepared as follows: Cut a truffle, three mushrooms and a very little cooked tongue into shreds, add three tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, put them all into a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a third of a tablespoonful of salt, one level teaspoonful of pepper and one tablespoonful of grated cheese. Boil for five minutes, when it is ready for use. Vanderbilt Garnish. This is prepared with green peppers, tomatoes and shrimps as follows : Peel and chop a green pepper, put it in a saucepan with a tomato cut into small pieces, one ounce of butter and eighteen picked and minced shrimps; season with salt and pep- per, cook for ten minutes, and it is ready for use. Vegetable Garnish for Soups. Small branches of cauliflower, very small onions, celery cut into shapes, cardoons treated in the same manner, lettuce, spinach or sorrel leaves, may be used for this, one or more kinds of them at a time. Cook the vegetables in a small quantity of char soup, and pour it into the tureen but a few minutes before serving. GARNISHINGS. 563 Fried Parsley. Carefully pick the stems from the parsley, wash, dry it on a cloth, put it into a frying basket, and then into hot fat, and fry for a few minutes, taking care that the fat is not too hot, or the parsley will lose its color and be spoiled. The fat that croquettes have been fried in is best for it. Puree of Chestnuts. Take off the outer skins of some chestnuts, put in a pan of boiling water and boil for a few minutes with a little salt to season. Take them off, put into cold water and remove the skins. Put the chestnuts in a pan with a quart of broth, put on the fire until boiling, then move to the side and boil slowly until tender. When cooked rub the chestnuts through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, then put them back with the remainder of the liquid to the saucepan, put in a teaspoonful of sugar and a small lump of butter, and boil them up again. Beef Marrow Quenelles. Put one-half pound of marrow into a basin with an equal quantity of bread- crumbs, add two tablcspoonfuls of flour, salt and pepper to taste, and work it into a smooth paste with the yolks of six eggs and the white of one. Take it out. a little at a time, poach in boiling salted water, drain them, trim them round and serve very hot Calfs Liver Quenelles. Steep a thick layer of bread in milk until well soaked, then squeeze, mix it with half a pound of finely-minced calf's liver, and season with parsley, chives and lemon peel, in small quantities and all finely chopped; dust in salt and pepper and a table- spoonful of flour, and bind the mixture with beaten eggs. Divide it with a table- spoon into small quantities, mould them into an oval shape. Plunge the balls into a saucepan of boiling water and boil for half an hour. Chop some bacon, place it in a fryingpan with a lump of butter and frv it until brown. When the quenelles are cooked pour the hot bacon and fat over them, and serve. Chicken Quenelles. Mix together one teacupful each of breadcrumbs and finelv-pounded cooked chicken; season highly with salt and cayenne, and moisten with raw egg yolks to bind it. Mould into little, olive-shaped pieces between two spoons; then cither roll the quenelles in e^ii; and cracker dust and frv them, or poach them until they float in boiling broth or water, and use them as desired. 5 6 4 GARNISHINGS. Dutch Quenelles. Make some forcemeat — either game, chicken or veal — place it in a mortar, beat it well, and mix in two well-beaten eggs. Line a plain mould with some thin slices of fat bacon, fill it with the forcemeat and press well down. Put the mould into a sauce- pan with boiling water to three-fourths its height, and steam the contents for about an hour and a half. When cooked, turn the quenelle out onto a hot dish, removing all the bacon, brush it over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze, and serve with a sauceboatful of brown sauce. Quenelles for Soups Entrees. Put into a basin the half-boiled yolks of two eggs, half their weight of hot boiled potatoes, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a small quantity of cayenne and salt, and the yolk of one e^j;, and mash all well together. Make the mixture into balls the size of cherries, using flour on the hands, drop these into a stewpan of boiling water and poach for a minute or two; then take them up with a skimmer and drop them into the soup a few minutes before serving. Herb and Forcemeat Quenelles. Mix together in equal quantities some celery, parsley, chervil and green onions with a little tarragon and double their united bulk in spinach leaves. The latter should be washed in a number of waters to remove the grit. Place the herbs in a saucepan with boiling water enough to cover and boil for a few minutes. When soft drain, put them in a bowl of cold salted water, strain through a fine hair-sieve and chop them fine. Make about two-thirds of their quantity of fowl or veal force- meat, season it well and mix with the herbs. Form the mixture into small shaped quenelles using two teaspoons for the purpose, and dipping them into warm water each time. Throw the quenelles into a saucepan of boiling salted water and boil until firm. Drain them and serve in a soup tureen with any kind of soup. Turtle Quenelles. Remove all the gristle, etc., from about twelve or fourteen ounces of turtle steak, cut it into pieces, place them in a mortar and pound well and then rub them through a fine sieve. Prepare a bread panada by working the crumb of a loaf in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, stirring well over the fire until the mixture does not adhere cither to the spoon or the pan. Place the turtle puree back into the mortar, add one- half pound of bread panada and six ounces of butter; work them well together, adding two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, the whites of three eggs and the yolks of five, a small quantity of powdered basil and grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Form the quenelles into shape with two tablespoons, plunge them into a saucepan of boil- GARNISHINGS. 565 ing consomme or rich broth, and poach. When done remove them, arrange them in a heap or a pyramid on a dish, and serve with a quantity of rich perigord sauce in a sauceboat. Ravioles of Game in Consomme. Remove the skin and sinews from two fillets of any uncooked game, chop the latter up and pound in a mortar with half their bulk each of cooked calf's brains, raw beef marrow, and grated Parmesan cheese. Add the yolks of two eggs to form the mass into a stiff paste, and with it prepare sixty or seventy ravioles. Plunge them into a saucepan of boiling water, boil for one or two minutes, remove the pan from the fire, cover it over and let the ravioles remain for another two or three minutes. Take them out, drain, put them in a soup tureen, pour over two or three quarts of game consomme, and serve. Salpicons. This is a French name given to a mince of chicken or game with tongue, mush- rooms, truffles, and sometimes foies gras, generally used as a stuffing. The following recipes for various salpicons are good. Salpicon of Crayfish. Put one pint of bechamel sauce into a saucepan with four mushrooms, one truffle, and the meat from three crayfish, all cut into dice; thicken well, let it cook for five or six minutes, and then serve. Salpicon Financicre. Take either the leg or the breast of a roasted chicken. Cut it into dice, and put them in a saucepan with one-half ounce of good butter, adding four mushrooms, one truffle, one-half ounce of cooked smoked beef tongue all cut in dice, and a dozen small godiveau quenelles; thicken with one-half pint of Madeira sauce, and cook for five minutes. It will then l>c ready for use as a garnish, Salpicon, Hunter's Style. Cut the breast of a fine, wcll-cookcd partridge into dice, and put them into a saucepan on a hot range, with one-half ounce of butter, one-half wineglassful of good sherry, three blanched chicken livers, one truffle, four mushrooms, and one-half ounce of cooked, smoked beef tongue, all cut up into dice. Thicken with one-half pint of hot salmis sauce, and allow all to cook for five minutes. It may then be used for garnishing. 566 GARXISHINGS. Salpicon Montglas. Mince, as for a julienne, four mushrooms, one truffle, the breast of a small, cooked chicken, or of any game, and one-half ounce of cooked ham, or the same quantity of cooked, smoked beef tongue. Put all these into a saucepan, adding one gill each of well-reduced Madeira sauce and tomato sauce; let this cook for five or six minutes, aud then use it as required. Salpicon of Shrimps. Put one pint of bechamel sauce into a saucepan with four mushrooms, one truffle and the meat from a dozen or more large shrimps, all chopped up fine. Thicken well, and let it cook for five minutes; then serve. Salpicon with Madeira. Place one-half ounce of butter in a saucepan, adding one-half wineglassful of sherry, a blanched throat of sweetbread, cut into dice, four mushrooms, one truffle, and one ounce of cooked smoked beef tongue, all cut the same as the sweetbread. Let this cook for five minutes, then add one-half pint of Madeira sauce, and let it cook again for five minutes. It will then be ready for garnishing. Stuffing. The more artistic term for this is forcemeat. The following recipes arc those generally in use and others will be found under special headings: Stuffing for Birds. Peel two large onions, parboil them, then drain and chop them fine. Soak one breakfast cupful of breadcrumbs in as much milk as they will absorb without becom- ing too soft. Put four ounces of butter in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter is melted put in the onions, breadcrumbs and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, add a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs and stir the mixture over the fire until it is reduced to a paste without allowing it to boil. The stuffing is then ready. It can be made in larger or smaller quantities according to the number and size of the birds to be stuffed. Anchovy Stuffing. Put some large, fine-chopped onions into a fryingpan with a little oil or butter, and fry them to a light brown. Put them in a basin and add some breadcrumbs that have been dipped in water and squeezed quite dry; then add a small piece of the liver of the bird to be stuffed, the fillets of seven or eight salted anchovies, a pinch of parsley, with a few chopped capers. Work these well together, sprinkle over a little pepper and thicken the mixture with the yolks of eggs, when it is ready for use. Chestnut Stuffing. Peel a sound, good-sized shallot, chop it up very fine, place it in a saucepan on a hot fire with one tablespoonful of butter and heat it for three minutes without browning; then add one-fourth pound of sausage-meat and cook for five minutes longer. Add ten finely-chopped mushrooms and a dozen well pounded cooked peeled chestnuts and stir all well together, seasoning with one pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, one-half saltspoonful of powdered thyme, and one teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. Let this come to a boil, add one-half ounce of sifted bread- crumbs and twenty-five or thirty whole cooked and shelled chestnuts, and mix all well together, being careful not to break the chestnuts. Allow it to cool and it is then ready for use. Chestnut Stuffing for Turkey. Put a dozen or fifteen large chestnuts into a saucepan of water, and boil them until they are quite tender; then take off the shells and skins, put into a mortar and 5 68 STUFFING. pound them Put four ounces of shredded beef-suet into a basin, stir in one-half pound of breadcrumbs, season with salt and pepper to taste, and squeeze in a little lemon juice Mix in a pound of chestnuts, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Chestnut Stuffing with Truffles. Remove the dark or outer skins from some chestnuts, immerse in boiling water for a few minutes, remove the light skins, and boil for twenty minutes. Put in a saucepan one pound of fat bacon and two shallots, and keep these over the fire for a few minutes. Then add the whole chestnuts, also one-half pound of chestnuts prev- iously cut into small pieces, put in pepper, spices and salt to taste, and a small quantity of powdered marjoram and thyme. Hold it over the fire a little longer, turning it now and then. It is then ready for use. Chicken Stuffing. Take the heart, liver and gizzard of a fowl, chop fine, season to taste and mix with boiled rice worked up with a little butter. Stuff the chicken with this. Chicken Liver Stuffing for Birds. Chop half a pound of fat chicken-livers in small pieces and put them in a fry- ingpan with two finely-chopped shallots, two ounces of fat ham also chopped, a little thyme, grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a small lump of butter. Toss it about over the fire until partly cooked, then take it off and leave until cold. Pound in a mortar, wjien it is ready for use. Stuffing for Ducks. Peel a fair-sized onion and a sour cooking-apple; chop them both very fine, and mix them with six ounces of finely-grated stale breadcrumb, one scant table- spoonful of sage leaves, either powdered or finely minced, one tablespoonf ul of butter and a little salt and pepper. Hind the whole together with a beaten egg, and it is then ready for the ducks. Stuffing for Fish. Weigh two pounds of breadcrumbs without the crust, and cut it into small squares; mix them one-half tablespoonful of powdered herbs, and a liberal quantity of salt and pepper. Dissolve six ounces of butter in one-half pint of warm water, and beat in the yolks of four eggs. Pour the liquid mixture over the bread and stir it well, but do not mash it. It is then ready for use. Stuffing for Fowls. Trim off all the crust from two pounds of bread; put tlie crumb into a basin of • old water, soak it for five minutes, then turn it onto a sieve and drain well, pressing out the water with a plate. When nearly dry, cut the bread into small squares, and STUFFING. 569 season it well with powdered sage, salt and pepper. Warm one breakfast cupful of butter, beat in an egg and three teacupfuls of warm water, and pour it over the bread, stirring it lightly, but not mashing it. Allow it to soak for ten minutes, and the stuffing will then be readv for use. Giblet Stuffing for Turkey. Put the giblets in a saucepan over the fire with boiling water to cover; sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and boil gently until tender. Save the water in which the giblets were boiled to use for gravy. Chop the giblets quite fine; put them in a frvingpan over the fire with four ounces of butter, two breakfast cupfuls of stale breadcrumbs and a good seasoning of salt, pepper and any powdered sweet herb except sage; stir all these ingredients together until they are of a light brown; add a wineglassful of sherry or Madeira wine, and the forcemeat is ready for use. Stuffing for Goose. Roast fifty chestnuts, using care not to let them burn; remove both the inner and outer peels, and chop them fine. Chop the goose's liver, put it in a saucepan with one-half tablespoonful each of chopped parsley; shallots, chives and a little garlic, and about two ounces of butter; frv them for a few minutes, then put in the chopped chestnuts with one pound of sausage-meat, and frv the whole for fifteen minutes longer. The stuffing is then ready for the goose. Pickled Pork Stuffing for Turkeys. Chop up very fine a quarter of a pound of fat and lean salted pork, break quite fine a couple of breakfast cupfuls of bread, and put them over the fire in a frying- pan with two piled up tablespoonfuls of butter, fry to a brown and season with salt, pepper and any sweet herbs, except sage. Potato Stuffing. Cut same peeled, raw potatoes into slices of moderate thickness, and then cut into squares, rinse with cold water, drain, and place them in a saucepan with a couple of ounces of butter, a chopped onion and one or two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper and grated nutmeg; place the lid on the pan, keeping the pan at the side of the fire and shaking contents occasionally, until nearly cooked, then chop fine an equal quantity of pig's liver and stir it into the potatoes a few minutes before serving. Stuffing for Poultry Galantine. Cut into small squares three pounds of the cooked flesh of either ducks or fowls; peel and chop two hard-boiled eggs and one medium-sized onion. Mix all these to gether with three breakfast cupfuls of stale breadcrumbs, three well-beaten eggs and 57 o STUFFING. one-half breakfast cupful of poultry fat that has been warmed. Season to taste with peppier, salt and sage. After the forcemeat has been spread in the boned duck or other bird, about one breakfast cupful of chopped aspic jelly strewn over it will be an improvement, and it will set in the forcemeat. Stuffing for Rabbits. Peel two fair-sized onions and boil; when they are tender, drain and mince them. Chop one-half pound of pickled pork and a few fine herbs, stir them in with the on- ions, then stir in the yolks of two eggs and add a sufficient quantity of breadcrumbs to make it fairly consistent. Season to taste with pepper and salt, using a very little of the latter on account of the salt in the pork. The stuffing is then ready for use. Stuffing for Suckling Pig. Put two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onion into a saucepan with one tea- spoonful of oil. Toss them over the fire for five or six minutes, add eight ounces of rice boiled in stock, an equal quantity of sausage-meat, four or five ounces of butter. a small quantity of minced-parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. Turn the mixture into a basin and add three more eggs to make the whole into a stiff paste. It is then ready for use. Truffle and Chestnut Stuffing. Peel off the thick outer skin of the chestnuts, put them into a saucepan with a bay leaf, a lump of salt, and plenty of coriander seeds, cover them with water and boil until nearly tender. Drain the chestnuts, and peel off the inner skin; for every half pound of chestnuts, weighed after they are boiled and peeled, allow one-half pound of fat bacon, one-fourth pound of truffles, and the chestnuts, all cut up into small pieces, season to taste with salt, pepper and spices, and add a little each of powdered thyme and marjoram, toss the mixture for a few minutes longer over the fire, and it is then ready for use. Truffle Stuffing for Turkey. Brush well one and one-half pounds of truffles, peel them, mince the peel very fine, cut the truffles into slices, put them all into a saucepan with one-fourth pound of minced fat bacon and any obtainable fat from the turkey, also a good-sized lump of butter, with salt and pepper to taste. Cook for ten minutes, and let it get cold before using. A turkey should be stuffed with this three days before it is cooked, and truffle sauce should accompany it. Stuffing for Boiled Turkey or Rabbit. Remove the outer peel of one pound of chestnuts, then put them in boiling water until the inner skins can easily be removed, then trim them anil put them into a small STUFFING. 57 1 lined saucepan, cover them with broth and boil until the pulp and the broth has been well reduced. Pass the chestnuts through a fine wire-sieve. Chop fine one-fourth pound of cold, boiled fat bacon, and mix it with the chestnut puree; season to taste with salt, pepper and minced lemon peel. The stuffing will then be ready for use. Stuffing for Turkey (Roasted). To one pound of sifted breadcrumbs add one-half pound of butter, one pound of boiled and mashed potatoes, and a little marjoram and summer savory rubbed to a fine powder; add sufficient eggs to stiffen, and season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. A little sausage-meat, grated ham, and a few oysters or chopped mush- rooms, may be added; they are a marked improvement, as are also a few walnuts, roasted chestnuts and filberts, and the grated rind of half a lemon. A few cooked truffles also improve it, and some may also be served in the gravy with the bird. Turkish Stuffing for Poultry. Put two handfuls of rice into a saucepan of water and parboil it; mix in ten or twelve chestnuts peeled and cut into small pieces, one handful of pistachio nuts, and one handful of currants. Put the mixture into a saucepan with four ounces of butter, stir it well over the fire until thoroughly incorporated, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little ground cinnamon, and it is then readv for use. This stuffing is used for turkeys or other birds, or anything else that is roasted whole. Stuffing for Veal. Trim off the skin and mince fine one-fourth pound of beef suet; mix with it one breakfast cupful of breadcrumbs, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls of finely-minced ham, and the grated peel of a lemon. Season the stuffing to taste with pepper and salt, and bind it with one beaten egg. It is then ready for use. Yorkshire Pudding. Take an equal number of eggs and tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and when the eggs are well whisked mix them in with the Hour, adding some salt and a little grated nutmeg, and then pour in as much new milk as will make a batter of the consistency of cream. Stir the batter with a fork vigorously for ten minutes, and then put it at once into a baking-tin, which must be very hot, and contain a couple of tablespoonfuls of hot dripping. Set the pudding in an oven to bake, or before the fire under the roasting-meat. When ready to serve cut the pudding into squares, and send it to the table on a separate dish. Eggs and Omelets. Andalusian Egg Poach six very fresh eggs, pare them neatly and dress them in a circle on a Duchess potato border browned in the oven. Cover the whole with American sauce to which has been added a little finely-chopped green pepper and strew the surface with a little chopped tarragon. Serve while quite hot with more of the sauce apart. Eggs and Artichokes. Boil in water twelve artichoke bottoms for half an hour and hard boil half the quantity of eggs. Cut as many rounds of bread as there are artichoke bottoms, mak- ing them about one inch larger in diameter; put a lump of butter in a flat stewpan and, when boiling, put in the rounds of bread and fry until well browned. When cooked drain the artichoke bottoms, peel and cut the hard-boiled eggs into halves, place an artichoke bottom on each round of bread and then half an c^g t the cut side downward. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the toast and eggs tastefully upon it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich gravy. Eggs and Cream. Put one pint of cream into a saucepan and boil it until it is reduced to half a pint. Heat up ten eggs and mix them with the cream and season with salt and pepper. Stir the mixture over the fire until the eggs are curdled; then turn it out onto a hot dish, put a small quantity of grated nutmeg on the top, brown under a salamander, and serve. Ham and Eggs. Broil some thin slices of ham, and poach as many eggs as there are slices of ham. Put the ham on a hot dish, with an c^ on each slice, and serve. Eggs and Olives. Remove the skins and stones from six olives and mince them together with a slice of cooked ham. Have ready five hard-boiled eggs, remove the shells and cut off a piece from each end so that they will stand. Cut them in halves, put the volks into a mortar with the ham and olives and pound them to a smooth paste, adding half an ounce of butter. Sprinkle over a little red pepper and fill up the whites with EGGS AND OMELETS. 573 the mixture ; arrange them on an ornamented paper, decorate them with pieces of toast and parsley, and serve. The half eggs should have the appearance of cups, and they may be served without the Daper with a little tartar sauce poured over them. Eggs as Tripe. Boil until hard a dozen eggs ; when cold cut into slices ; peel some small pickling onions, put them into a stewpan with a little butter, and fry over a slow fire; dredge over with Hour; pour in three-quarters of a breakfast cupful each of stock and cream, and stew gently until tender; season to taste with salt and pepper. When the onions arc ready, put in the eggs and leave them until hot, moving the stewpan to the side of the fire. Turn the whole out onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve immediately. Egg Aurora. Boil one dozen eggs until hard, take off their shells, cut them in halves, remove the yolks and run them through a fine sieve; put four ounces of butter in a saucepan with one breakfast cupful of cream, one teaspoonful of Hour, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and set it on the fire ; simmer gently without boiling until thick, then throw in the whites of half the eggs, previously chopped fine, and stir well. Put the remainder of the whites on a dish, pour over the mixture, put a little butter on this, and melt it with a salamander. When the butter is quite melted, serve, taking care to keep it very hot. Baked Eggs. Boil eight eggs in a saucepan of water until quite hard; when cool remove the shells. Cut the eggs up into slices; put these at the bottom of a stewpan and pour over them a few tablespoonfuls of tomato same reduced with a little gravy; place the lid on the pan and set it in the bain-marie or in another large saucepan half-filled with boiling water. Boil about four handfuls of finely-minced noodles in a saucepan with salted water; then take out, drain and return them to the saucepan. Add seasoning, a quarter of a pound of butter, two or three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce and one teacupful of grated cheese (Parmesan preferred). Mix thoroughly and pour about three parts of the mixture on a dish; make a hollow in the center, pour in the egg- mixture, and over these the remainder of the noodle-mixture. Smooth the surface with a knife, sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan cheese, then pour over a small quantity of melted butter, bake for a quarter of an hour, and serve. Eggs, Bar-le-duc. Toast some slices of bread and trim them round-shaped; on each one lay a well- cooked artichoke bottom, and over this drop a poached c^; cover the whole with some good brown tarragon sauce, and serve. 574 EGGS AND OMELETS. Boiled Eggs. The eggs should be warm before boiling; that is, they should not be brought from a cold place and boiled Plunge them into boiling water and boil gently for three minutes, when the yolks will be soft and the whites a little hardened. The whites will become quite hard if boiled for exactly five minutes while the yolks will remain soft; if boiled for three or four minutes longer they will be quite hard. For salads, they require to be boiled for a quarter of an hour. If the eggs are very cold, as they are likely to be in the winter, they can be warmed sufficiently by holding them in steam If the shell of an egg should be cracked, prick small holes in the thickest part of the egg to prevent the contents from oozing out while boiling. Eg; s. Bonne Femme. Peel two onions, slice and fry brown in butter; then mix in one dessertspoonful of vinegar. Butter a dish, spread the onions over it, break over them the required number of eggs, and place them in a brisk oven. When the eggs are cooked, cover them with a layer of breadcrumbs fried in butter, and serve. Eggs, Bourgeoise Style. Cut some thin slices of bread, trim off the crusts, lay them on a thickly-buttered dish, and cover with thin slices of cheese. Beat well sufficient eggs to cover the bread, season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, and pour them over the slices. Put the dish in a moderate oven, and bake until the eggs are set. Serve while very hot, in the same dish. Canada Eggs. Empty out sufficient of the inside part of some fine round fresh tomatoes to have each one contain a raw egg, which is to be broken into it, season with salt and pepper, and cover the tomatoes witli a tablespoonful of cream sauce; place them on a baking- tin in a slack oven to cook slowly for fifteen minutes, then serve on toasts the same size as the tomatoes; pour a brown sauce around, and serve. Catherine Eggs. Wash well and bake some large potatoes in the oven; when done, remove, cut a piece off tin- tops and take out sufficient of the insides to contain one raw egg to each potato. Break in the vg'j; and season with salt and pepper, then cover with a spoon- ful of rrcam sauce tor each one. Place them on a pan in the oven for fifteen minutes. then take out and serve with any kind of brown sauce poured arouiul. EGGS AND OMELETS. 575 Columbus EggS- Take eight fine green peppers, large enough to contain one egg each; cut off the tops and empty them well, being careful to extract every seed; stand them upright in a sautepan, and break an egg into each one, then set the pan in the oven for eight or ten minutes. Take out, lay the peppers on toasts and pour a little tomato sauce around. Eggs, Creole Style. Fry one teaspoonful of well-chopped onion in colorless oil, an equal quantity of finely-sliced hot pepper, and a quarter of a clove of crushed garlic and a peeled tomato cut in half, pressed out and cut up into small squares; simmer, reduce it and when it has attained a sufficient consistency, add a couple of tablcspoonfuls of crushed rice, salt and a little cayenne pepper. Then cover the bottom of the dish with this mixture, and break over the eggs carefully, keeping the volks whole, pour over some melted butter, and season with salt on the white of the eggs, and in the middle of the yolks, place a little melted butter, and cook until done in a moderate oven. Egg Cromeskies. Boil until hard, six eggs, and when cold, peel off the shells; mix together three tablespoonfuls of sifted breadcrumbs, three dessertspoonfuls each of chopped parsley and onion, a teaspoonful and a half of mixed herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and sprinkle this over six slices of lean bacon, each slice three inches wide and eight inches long, Place a hard-boiled egg on each, roll the bacon around the egg, and fasten with pieces of string or small skewers. Bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Egg Croquettes. Boil eighteen eggs hard, separate the whites from the volks after removing the shells. Chop the whites small, and rub the yolks of six of the eggs through a fine hair-sieve. Put two onions, cut into small pieces, in a frvingpan with four ounces of butter, and fry but not brown; then add one tablespoonful of flour and mix thoroughly, pour in sufficient boiling milk to just moisten the whole, and season with a little salt and pepper. When the sauce is ready, put in the six volks and the whites, stir well, and let the mixture cool. Form it into croijucttcs, spread these over with breadcrumbs, fry them in boiling fat to a light brown, and serve. The remainder of the yolks can be used for other purposes. Curried Eggs. Peel six hard-boiled eggs and cut them into slices. Put one teaspoonful each of < hopped onions and butter in a fryingpan and stir over the fire until brown; add hah" 576 EGGS AND OMELETS. a teacupful of flour and curry powder mixed in equal proportions, one breakfast cupful of milk, and season with salt and pepper, and simmer until the onions arc soft, then add the eggs. When thoroughly warmed, turn all out onto a dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Deviled Eggs. Boil a sufficient quantity of eggs hard; when cold, peel and dip the first into beaten raw egg, next into oil, and roll them in salt and a small quantity of cayenne. Make a little tray by twisting up the corners of half a sheet of oiled writing paper, place the eggs in it, put on a gridiron over a clear fire, and shake it about until the eggs are quite hot. Meanwhile prepare equal quantities of olive oil and chutney sauce, pour the sauce around them, garnish with parsley, and serve. Easter Eggs. To color Easter eggs red, wash them thoroughly and place in a saucepan of water with a little cochineal, carmine or logwood, and boil for ten minutes. When done leave them in the colored fluid for about five minutes; then take them out, wipe dry and rub over with, an oiled cloth. Use spinach for green, saffron for yellow. By tying the eggs up in the outside skins of onions, a pretty maize is obtained. A pretty dish of Easter eggs may be prepared as follows: Pour one pint of cold water over one ounce of gelatine, and let it steep for four hours; add one pound of sugar and three pints of boiling milk, and stir over the fire until the sugar and the gelatine are quite dissolved; then strain and divide into four parts. Stir into one part two tablespoonfuls of sweet vanilla-flavored chocolate; into another the beaten yolks of two eggs; a little prepared cochineal or very red fruit syrup into the third, and leave the fourth white. Flavor the white with rose-water, the red with essence of almonds, the brown with vanilla, and the yellow with essence of lemon. Put the yellow portion over the fire and let it heat long enough to cook the eggs, stirring continually. I lave a dozen egg-shells ready, emptied through a very small hole made at one end of the shell, and rinse well in cold water, changing it several times. Do not drain or dry them, as the insides must be quite wet when the shells are filled. Fill three shells with each of the mixtures, standing them upright in a pan of flour or finclv-powdered salt, and let them remain all night. On the following day fill a glass dish three parts full with white wine jelly cut in pieces, and on this arrange the eggs, having first peeled off the shells. Scatter among them candied orange and citron peel cut into thin shreds. Fried Eggs. Tut into a frvingpan three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil; place on the hot range. heat it well, and break into it one cv;^;, being careful not to injure the yolk. Fold the white over the yolk with the aid of a knife, and cook for a quarter of a minute; turn the egg over with a skimmer, and cook for a quarter of a minute on the other side; EGGS AND OMELETS. 577 lift it out with the skimmer, and place it on a hot dish. Proceed in the same way with eleven more eggs, and they will then be ready to serve. Mix one pinch of salt with half a pinch of white pepper, and season each of the eggs with it after thev are placed on the dish. Care must be taken to cook the eggs separately, and not more than a quarter of a minute on each side. Fried Eggs for Garnish. Pour half a teacupful of sweet oil into a fryingpan; when hot, break in one egg carefully, closing up the white part with a skimmer so as to have it firm and compact, and cook for two minutes. Only one egg at a time should be in the pan. Eggs Fried in Batter. Poacu six or eight eggs in water, not allowing them to get hard. Place on a folded napkin to drain and cool. Put one pound of fat into a fryingpan, and when it is hot, fry some parsley with it. Dip each egg singly with a large spoon in batter, sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley, and fry until brown in the fat. Put the fried parsley on a dish, arrange the eggs on it, squeeze over some lemon juice, and serve. Eggs Fried in Brown Butter. Break the eggs gently on a plate taking care not to injure the yolks, then dredge with salt and pepper. Put two ounces of butter in ;i fryingpan over a brisk fire; when beginning to brown, move it to the side; put another two ounces of butter in a separate fryingpan and place over the tire until hot; then place the eggs in carefully to avoid breaking the yolks, and spread the brown butter over them. When the whites are set, turn the eggs out onto a hot dish; sprinkle a small quantity of vinegar or a squeeze of lemon juice over them; garnish with fried parsley and serve, or thev mav be served on hot buttered toast. Fried F^ggs, Provincial Style. Pour two tablespoonfuls of oil or warmed butter into a fryingpan on the fire; when heated, break an egg into a cup, season with salt and pepper, drop it into the oil, baste, turn it over, and when of a good color on both sides, take out and drain on a wire-sieve. Cook twelve eggs altogether allowing two minutes for each. When all are done, trim them and serve on a dish with pieces of fried bread between them Tour over one-half pint of reduced Spanish sauce with the zest of a lemon and six sliced mushrooms added to it. Serve very hot. Fried Eggs with Bacon. Break a do/en eggs separately in cups being careful not to damage the yolks Tut into a fryingpan some slices of fat bacon, fry them, take them out, boil the fat, 57 8 EGGS AND OMELETS. put in the eggs one at a time so they will be able to be taken apart and fry them well but not to be too much done. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over and place on some slices of bacon on a dish; or if preferred, they may be put in the center of a dish and the slices of bacon put around as a garnish. Should there not be enough fat in the pan, add more. Although this is a very ordinary dish, much care should be taken in preparing. Fried Eggs with Black Butter. Put one ounce of butter in a fryingpan; place on the hot stove and allow to be- come hot without browning; break twelve eggs into cups and slide them carefully into the pan, season with salt and white pepper and cook slowly for three minutes. Have ready a hot flat dish, slide the eggs gently onto it without turning them over, taking care not to break them, and set the dish in a warm place. Put two ounces of butter in the saucepan, place it on the hot stove again and let the butter get a good lemon color, which will take about three minutes; add two teaspoonfuls of vinegar, pour this over the eggs, and serve at once. Egg Fritters. Put four eggs into a saucepan of boiling water, boil for fifteen minutes; then take them out, plunge into cold water for a few minutes and remove the shells; cut the eggs lengthwise in halves, separate the yolks and mix them up with a little pot of meat; replace them, put the two halves together, pressing them firmly and then cut into quarters with a very sharp knife. Dip these in batter, plunge into boiling fat and fry; drain, sprinkle with salt, and serve on a napkin on a dish. Hard-Boiled Eggs with Madeira Sauce. Cut twelve hard-boiled eggs into halves lengthwise, remove the volks and place them in a bowl with half an ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of essence of anchovies and a pinch of chopped chives; beat these well, fill the whites with the mixture, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour over a few drops of clarified butter and put them on a buttered dish in the oven for three minutes. Serve with half a pint of Madeira sauce poured over. Eggs in Aspic. kill ;i mould to a third of its height with clear aspic jelly; when cold arrange some slices of hard-boiled eggs on the top, then fill it three parts with more liquid jelly and allow this to set; arrange a layer of eggs as before and fill to the top with more jelly. Let it sit tor twelve hours on ice if possible. Dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it, turn the jelly out onto a dish, and serve EGGS AND OMELETS. 579 % ;gs in Cases. Make some paper cases about three inches square, butter them well inside and half fill them with sifted breadcrumbs seasoned with chopped parsley, a small quan- tity of cayenne and salt; stick small pieces of butter over the breadcrumbs, break an nto each and add breadcrumbs seasoned as before until the cases are full. Put them into an oven or on a gridiron over a clear fire for three minutes, and serve very hot. Eggs in Cocottes. Take some small china cups (called cocottes) and break a new-laid egg in each with a little butter; sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, set them on hot ashes and salamander the tops until the eggs are done and quite soft. Serve in the cups. Eggs in Crusts. Take several thin rounds of bread and cut in pieces three inches in diameter, then with a small thin cutter an inch and a half in diameter cut the center out of each round, leaving an unbroken ring. Melt a sufficient quantity ot butter in a fryingpan, put in the rings, and fry until slightly brown. Butter a dish, lay the rings in it, break a raw egg into each ring, being careful not to disturb the yolks; baste with a few tablespoonfuls of sour cream, and dust over a small quantity of salt. Cover the dish, put it in the oven, and leave it until the whites are set, but they must not be allowed to brown. When cooked, lift the eggs in their rings carefully out of the baking-dish, using a skimmer for the purpose, and lav them on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with waterercsses, and Eggs in Jcllv Boil ten or a dozen eggs until quite hard ; then peel and cut into halves, length- wise. Take as many patty-pans as there are halves of eggs, put in each pan half an and pour over sufficient savory jelly to cover it; lay a thin slice of ham over each, and leave them until quite cold and the jelly is set. Turn the jelly out onto an ornamental dish, garnish with a few sprays of parsley, and serve. E gg s in Shell: Put into a basin a teacupful of breadcrumbs ; add a tcacupful of finelv-minced tongue or ham, a little salt, pepper, ground mustard, melted butter and chopped parsley; then work the mixture to a smooth paste with a little hot milk, ami spread it on table shells; break some eggs carefully, put one on each shell; sprinkle over the top biscuit or cracker crumbs, and add a little salt and pepper ; pour a dessertspoon- 5 8o EGGS AND OMELETS. ful of liquefied butter on each and bake for five minutes, or until the eggs are firm Arrange the shells on a dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Eggs, Italian Style. Boil some eggs hard, cut them in halves, take out the yolks, weigh them, and put them in a mortar with an equal weight of butter, and pound together with a little breadcrumbs soaked in milk or cream, chopped parsley, one anchovy, a little chopped onion, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Put the mixture into a saucepan, and cook to a thick paste, adding a little cream or gravy. Fill the cavities of the whites with this, and serve cold with a salad, or hot in sauce, or on a puree of vegetables. Eggs, Leo XIII. Make a Duchess potato preparation and form it into the shapes of chicken fillets; just when ready to serve, brown them in butter. Place them as a border on a round dish and over them lay a soft egg on each, between each egg put a very white, cooked cockscomb. Fill the center of the dish with a garnishing composed of cocks' kidneys, mushrooms and olives mixed with supreme sauce. Glaze the surface with a salamander and serve. Egg-loaf, Princess Style. Butter thickly a small charlotte mould, decorate the bottom and sides with cooked asparagus tops, thoroughly dried on a cloth. Take two glassfuls of supreme sauce, to it add four finely-chopped hard-boiled eggs and six raw yolks of season it well. Fill the mould with this preparation and steam it for thirty minutes. Turn the loaf out onto a round dish, decorate around with fried bread croutons, lay- ing a poached egg on each one, cover with half glaze sauce, and serve. Eggs, Lyonese Style. Put into a saucepan of water half a dozen of eggs and boil until hard. Peel and chop fine two medium-sized onions, put them into a stewpan with butter, and fry until brown; pour half a pint of broth over the onions; season with salt and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, boil gently and stir now and then until reduced to a rather creamy thickness. Peel the hard-boiled eggs and chop the whites. Put the latter into the sauce, boil up once, and then turn the whole out onto a hot dish. Garnish with the yolks of the eggs and small, baked puff paste cakes, and serve very hot Eggs, Maine d' Hotel. Boil until hard, six eggs; peel and cut into quarters, arranging them on a dish that will stand the heat of the oven; put in some pieces of butter, sprinkle a little EGGS AND OMELETS. 581 chopped parsley, tarragon, chervil, pepper and salt over, and set the dish in a moder- ate oven until the butter is melted. Turn the eggs and cook a few minutes longer, then take them out, and serve. Married Eggs. Blanch eight artichoke bottoms, then cook them in some gravy. Make a prep- aration with four hard-boiled eggs chopped up very fine, mix in plenty of very finely-chopped fine herbs that have been parboiled in hot water, add three raw egg yolks, salt, a little cayenne pepper and a little tomato sauce; mix all together well and cover the artichokes with this, smooth the surface nicelv with the blade of a knife, strew with breadcrumbs and melted butter and set them in the oven for four minutes. Arrange them svstcmatically on a dish, and .serve. Matelote of Eggs. Put one pint of either red or white wine in a stewpan, the wine having been diluted with one-third its quantity of water. Chop up an onion, mix it with a little pepper, salt, a bunch of sweet herbs and one clove of garlic and boil in the wine for five minutes; strain, put it back in the saucepan and poach ten eggs in it. Arrange the eggs on a dish when done. Thicken the wine with butter rubbed in flour, stir over the fire until the flour has cooked, pour over the eggs, and serve. American Omelet. Pour one pint of vcloute sauce into a sauccboat, place it on a moderate fire, add a piece of lobster butter about the size of an Cgg, together with twentv-four cooked and skinned shrimps, and season with salt and a little pepper. Cook for three min- utes, stirring slightly; then add half an empty peeled green pepper, finely hashed, cook for ten minutes longer, then let it rest on the corner of the stove. Make an omelet with twelve eggs, fold up the side nearest the handle of the pan, pour half of the preparation in the center, fold the other side over, turn the omelet onto a hot dish, garnish both sides with the rest of the shrimps, pouring the remainder of the sauce round the dish, and serve it while it is very hot. Anchovy Omelet. Cut off a slice from a stale tinned loaf not more than a quarter of an inch thick, remove the crusts, and cut into pieces one inch square. Fry these lightly in oil or butter. Beat up some eggs into an omelet and season with pepper, salt, and a little finely-chopped parsley. Pour half of this into a small, flat, well-buttered stewpan, and cook on one side only; then remove, set the pieces of bread over it, and upon each side of bread lay a half inch of a fillet of anchovy. Make a second omelet, and lay on top of all the side of the omelet which was nearest the fire being uppermost. 582 EGGS AND OMELETS. Set them in an oven between two plates for a few minutes, and serve with a little Spanish sauce. Bacon Omelet. Take the requisite amount of finely-minced lean bacon, and place in a fryingpan with a little butter or lard, and fry until done. Have ready a sufficient number of eggs well-beaten with salt and pepper, and stir into the bacon. When cooked, take out and serve on a dish. Smoked Beef Omelet. Warm a little finely-minced beef in a fryingpan with a lump of butter and add a dozen or so beaten eggs, making into an omelet. Cepes Omelet. Fry half a dozen cepes cut into small pieces in one-half ounce of butter for two minutes. Beat a dozen eggs in a bowl, season with one pinch of salt and one-half pinch of pepper, pour them over the cepes, and make an omelet as described under omelets. Cheese Omelet Baked. Cut some strips of cheese about one-fourth of an inch thick, arrange them around the sides of a baking-dish and spread sifted browned breadcrumbs over the bottom; place thin slices of cheese over this, and then three or four eggs, unbroken, salt and pepper to taste, spread on a little grated cheese and finally another layer of the browned breadcrumbs. Place a few lumps of butter on the top, set the dish in the oven and bake for from ten to fifteen minutes, or until the eggs are quite firm, but not hard. When done, serve as hot as possible. Parmesan Cheese Omelet. Break two eggs into a basin and dust over with a very little pepper and cayenne. Put one ounce of butter into a pan rubbed over with garlic. When it is boiling, pour in the eggs and hold the pan over the fire until the omelet is set; then put a table- spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese on one-half of it, cover with the other half, cook for a minute longer, and serve immediately. Chicken's Liver Omelet. After partially boiling the liver, cut it into small pieces, put them in a fryingpan with butter, two or three button mushrooms, a shallot and a tablespoonful of parsley, all finely-minced; season to taste with salt and pepper and fry them for ten minutes. Turn them into a basin, and when cold, beat in three eggs. Tut a lump of butter in EGGS AND OMELETS. 583 an omelet-pan, and when melted, put in the omelet and fry it. Serve it on a folded napkin or a fancy dish-paper on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Crab Omelet. Take six ounces of boiled crab-meat and cut it into small pieces; place them in a sautepan together with one wineglassful of white wine and about one-fourth of an ounce of butter. Dampen with one teacupful of strong hot bechamel sauce and let these cook together for five minutes. Make an omelet with one dozen eggs, and with the use of a skimmer, place the stewed crab in the middle, fold over the side oppo- site the handle, pour in the garnishing, fold up the other side, turn it all onto a hot dish, lay the sauce round it, and serve. Crayfish Omelet. Take the tails of two dozen boiled crayfish, and cut them up into dice. Remove the meat from the claws, chop it up with the trimmings of the tails, and an equal quantity of fresh mushrooms; put them into a basin, and add ten eggs, a little salt and nutmeg to season, and a small pinch of finely-chopped parsley; whip them well for three minutes. Warm four ounces of butter in an omelet-pan, add the eggs, etc.; let it thicken a trifle, and then put the tails — previously mixed with one tablespoonful of white sauce reduced with a little meat-glaze — in the center. When cooked remove the omelet, roll it up, put it into an oblong dish, and serve. Egg and Truffle Omelets. Cut into thin slices a small quantity of truffles, put them into a stewpan with a little brown sauce, and boil very gently. Prepare a sufficient quantity of plain egg omelets, spread on the truffles, and fold them up. Spread a folded napkin over a hot dish, arrange the omelets on it, and garnish with parsley. Omelet of Green Peas. Break twelve eggs into a bowl, adding one-half pint of boiled green peas, a little salt and pepper, and beat well for four minutes, then make it into an omelet. Ham Omelet. Mince two ounces of ham fine, taking lean and fat in equal proportions; put the mince into a basin with four eggs, and beat them up well. Tut one ounce of butter in an omelet pan, and when it has melted, pour in the mixture. Hold the handle of the pan in one hand, and stir the omelet with a spoon with the other; when it begins to set, cease stirring, shake the pan for a few minutes until the lower side of the 584 EGGS AND OMELETS. omelet is browned, then fold it over with a spoon. Turn the omelet onto a hot dish with a folded napkin, or a fancy-edged dish-paper, garnish with parsley, and serve. Kidney Omelet. Boil a mutton or other kidney, and when cooked, cut it into thin slices. Beat six eggs together with one tablespoonful of flour and one teacupful of milk, seasoning with a little grated nutmeg and salt. Melt a piece of butter in a fryingpan, pour in the omelet mixture, and stir it over the fire until it is firm; then lay the slices of kidney on top, and fold it over. When cooked, slip the omelet onto a hot dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin, and serve at once. Lobster Omelet. Take six ounces of lobster-meat and cut it into small pieces; place them in a stewpan with one wineglassful of white wine and a quarter of an ounce of butter, moisten with a fourth of a pint of strong, hot bechamel sauce, and let cook for five minutes. Make an omelet with twelve eggs, and with a skimmer place the stewed lobster in the middle of the fold over the side opposite the handle, lay in more gar- nishing, fold the other side up, turn it onto a hot dish, pour the sauce around, and serve. Mushroom Omelet. Either fresh or canned mushrooms may be used for this. Heat one tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms in enough white sauce to moisten them, or clean three fresh mushrooms, and fry them in just enough butter to prevent burning; season with salt and pepper. While the mushrooms arc being heated beat three eggs for half a minute, together with one teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper. Put the fryingpan over the fire, with one teaspoonful of butter; when the butter begins to melt pour in the eggs, and as soon as they are set on the bottom of the pan, break the omelet a little with a fork. When it is cooked to the desired degree, put the mushrooms on one half, and fold the other half over by lifting with a broad knife, then loosening the omelet from the pan without breaking onto a dish, and serve at once. Oyster Omelet. Put half a dozen oysters into a saucepan with their liquor to scald; take them out, drain and cut them into quarters. Meanwhile put the yolks of three eggs into a basin, beat them to a cream, add one teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, one tablespoonful of milk, and lastly, the oysters. Peat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth and stir them in. together with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Put one and one-half ounces of butter into a fryingpan and when it has melted pour in the contents of the basin and hold the pan over the (ire until the EGGS AND OMELETS. 585 omelet has set. Give the pan a vigorous shake, loose the omelet from the bottom with a knife, hold the pan in front of the fire for a few minutes to let the upper part set, then fold it over, place it carefully on a dish, and serve hot. Parsley Omelet. Break two eggs in a basin, put one tablespoonful of milk with them and beat up, mixing thorough lv but not making too light; add a little salt and a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley while beating. Put one tablespoonful of clarified butter in a small omelet-pan and when boiling put in the omelet preparation; when partly set run the point of a knife round to loosen it and shake the omelet over to the farther side of the pan until the thin edge, forced upward, falls back into the omelet. When nicely browned underneath and the middle nearly set, roll the brown side uppermost by the aid of a knife and slide the omelet onto a hot dish. Serve at once. Plain Omelets. Beat six eggs well in a basin and season with pepper and salt and a little water. Melt a large piece of butter in a fryingpan, pour the beaten eggs in and stand it at tin- side but not on the fire, turning it often. When the edges are done gather them together and roll over and over, ami serve them very hot. Potato Omelet. Peel and boil three or four large potatoes, and when soft, drain and mash them; beat four eggs with a teacupful of milk, mix in with the potatoes and flavor to taste with herbs, salt and a small amount of pepper. Cut four ounces of lean bacon into small squares, and place them in a fryingpan with a lump of butter, fry them until crisp and brown, then mix in the potatoes, and stir over the fire until well set ; when nicely browned on both sides, told the omelet over, place it on a hot dish, and serve. Prawn Omelet. Remove the prawns from their shells and chop them coarse, place them in a basin with a teaspoonful of minced parsley, and three eggs; season to taste with salt, pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, beating all well together. Melt a lump of butter or clarified fat in an omelet pan, put in the above preparation and fry. When done spread a folded napkin or fancy dish-paper over a small dish, put the omelet on it, and serve very hot. Salmon Omelet. Take about two ounces of the flesh of some cold boiled salmon, and shred it as fine as possible with a fork, put it into a basin with one tablespoonful of finely- 586 EGGS AND OMELETS. minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and two or three small pieces of butter ; break in three eggs, and beat the whole well together. Put one ounce of butter in an omelet-pan, place it over the fire, and when melted but not browned, pour in the above mixture. Stir it over the fire with a flat spoon until it begins to set, then cease stirring and toss it about for a minute or two. When delicately browned underneath, fold the omelet over, and turn it onto a hot dish, the browned side uppermost. Garnish the dish with fried parsley, and serve. Sardine Omelet. Have ready over the fire a fryingpan containing two tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Remove the skins and bones from two sardines, and cut them into one-half inch lengths; beat the eggs with one-half saltspoonful of salt and a slight sprinkling of cayenne pepper for a minute. Have in readiness one-half teaspoonful of lemon juice or vinegar. When the oil is hot, pour the eggs into the pan, place it over the fire, and with a fork slightly break the omelet on the bottom as it cooks, so that the uncooked portion can run upon the pan, but do not tear the edges of the omelet. When the omelet is cooked to the required degree, and it should not be too well done, lay the sardines on one side of it, pour the lemon juice or vinegar over them, fold the omelet together, enclosing them, then turn it out onto a hot dish, and serve at once. The omelet should be served the moment it is done, as it hardens by standing, Sausage Omelet. Skin three raw sausages, put them into a saucepan with one-fourth ounce of butter; set it on a hot fire for five minutes, and stir well until they are cooked. Make a plain omelet with a dozen eggs, fold over the side opposite the handle of the pan, lay the sausages in the center, fold the other side over, and serve with one-fourth pint of hot Madeira sauce poured round the omelet. Savory Omelet. Beat the yolks of six eggs till they are almost white, then beat the whites for the same length of time, and pour them over the yolks; add a dessertspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one teaspoonful of mixed herbs, one dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a few drops of lemon juice, pepper and salt, six tablespoonfuls of milk, and three tcaspoonfuls of flour, and beat all well together for at least five minutes. Peel a small onion, slice, and frv in butter, when the butter is boiling hot takeout the onion and pour in the omelet. Hold the pan over a clear fire in rather a slanting position, to keep the omelet from spreading; when fried a light brown fold it over with a slice, and serve very hot. A little grated tongue may be mixed with the Omelet il desired. EGGS AND OMELETS. 5 8 7 Shallot Omelet. Pour into a basin one tablcspoonful of cream, several small lumps of butter, three eggs and some chopped parsley, seasoning to taste with pepper and salt; peel and chop three or four shallots, mix them with the above ingredients, and beat well. Put a lump of butter into a frvingpan and when melted pour in the omelet mixture. When set, roll the omelet round, brown it on one side, turn it onto a hot dish, pour over a little sauce or rich gravy, and serve. Shrimp Omelet. Beat up the volks of two eggs with one dessertspoonful each of finely-chopped onion and flour, a small quantity of mixed herbs, and a seasoning of pepper, then mix in by degrees one teacupful of milk. Beat to a stiff froth the whites of two eggs. Have ready shelled one-half pint of shrimps, turn them into a shallow baking- dish and place them in the oven for a minute or two to warm. Add the frothed white of an egg quickly to the batter, beat it lightly and pour it over the shrimps. Bake for twenty minutes, and serve hot. Spanish Omelet. Put a finely-shred onion, one ounce of butter, a chopped green pepper, six minced mushrooms, and one large tomato cut fine, into a stewpan; add one spoonful of tomato sauce, a little salt and pepper, and cook for fifteen minutes. Make a plain omelet with twelve eggs, fold the farther side towards the center, put three-fourths of the stew inside of it, fold the other side over, turn out onto a long dish, pour the rest of the sauce round, and serve. Tomato Omelet. Scald and skin a large tomato, chop it up and mix in a little minced shallot. Beat the volks and whites of three eggs separately; then mix the beaten yolks with the tomato and shallot, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Put one and one- half ounces of butter into an omelet-pan, and when it is quite hot, add the whites of ga to the other mixture, turn it into the pan and cook gently for two or three minutes, stirring often. When done, place the omelet on a dish, and serve. Truffle Omelet. Wash well three or four large truffles; put them into a saucepan with sufficient white wine or champagne to cover them nearly or quite and boil for ten minutes with the lid on the pan. Remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and keep the truffles warm in the stock for half an hour or so. Take them out, peel and chop them 588 EGGS AND OMELETS. up very fine. Beat four eggs in a basin, add a little chopped parsley, salt and pep- per, turn the omelet into a fryingpan with about one and one-half ounces of butter made hot, and cook until it is yellow. Put a portion or the whole of the cooked truffles with a little of the liquor they were stewed in, in the center of the omelet, fold it over, place it on a dish, and serve without delay. Omelet with Fine Herbs. Break two eggs into a basin, mix in a shallot, a little each of thyme, marjoram, basil, chervil and parsley, and sprinkle in a very little pepper. Melt one ounce of butter in a pan on the fire and let the butter cover the pan, and, taking care that it does not burn, when it is at the boiling point place in the omelet and fry to a golden brown. Eggs on Toast. Toast six or eight pieces of bread without crust, cut square, butter them and place on a dish. Put a poached egg on each, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve hot. Eggs, Parisian Style. Mask the whole of the insides of as many small dariole moulds as may be required (the moulds having been previously set on the ice) with warmed half-glaze; make a mince of equal parts of truffles, ham or tongue and sprinkle over the insides of the moulds so as to adhere to the glaze and break an egg into each one, taking care not to damage the yolk; sprinkle them over with salt and pepper and put in a low sauce- pan with boiling water to half their height; then put the pan in the oven for five or six minutes to poach the eggs, pour them out onto a dish, pour a little gravy seasoned with chopped parsley over them, and serve. Eggs, Peasant Style. Pour into a dish one breakfast cupful of cream; when boiling break in twelve eggs, season with salt and twelve whole peppers; cook for ten minutes; set in the oven for about three minutes until the eggs get a golden color, taking care that they do not harden. Remove them from the oven, place the dish on another, and serve. Philadelphia Eggs. Split some fresh muffins in two, toast them to a fine color and lay them on a dish. Cut some cooked chicken white meat the same size as the half muffins, lay them on top, then a poached egg over, and cover with Ilollandaise sauce, made as follows: Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and when quite hot add two raw egg yolks and the juice of half a lemon; whip well till it becomes creamy and con- sistent, then use. EGGS AND OMELETS. 589 How to Poach Eggs. Put a gallon of water in a saucepan on the fire to boil gently, adding a large pinch of salt. When the water boils, break in eight eggs very delicately, without in- juring the yolks, and leave them to cook for a few minutes ; lift them out with a skimmer and serve on toasts, or otherwise, while still very hot. Poached Eggs Bourguignonne. Glaze one tablespoonful of meat into a saucepan with one pint of broth or con- somme, and boil for a few minutes; add two eggs and poach for a minute and a quar- ter. Carefully lift the eggs out with a skimmer, and lav them gently on a hot dish. Repeat the operation with ten more eggs, two at a time; when all are on the dish, sprinkle over one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese and place it in a hot oven for one minute to brown. Reduce the gravy in which the eggs were poached to half its original quantity. Pour it carefully around, but not over them, and serve. Poached Eggs with Anchovy Sauce. Put eight eggs into a saucepan of water and boil for five minutes; then take them out, remove the shells and put them in cold water. Cut off the crust from a stale loaf and cut the crumb into slices about one inch in thickness, and again into oval-shaped pieces about the size of eggs. Cut them transversely around the cd>j;c with a sharp knife, put them in a fryingpan of boiling fat and frv them to a light brown. Take them out, split across, removing the bottom part, scoop out a little of the soft inside, fill each cavity with an egg, and put on the tops. Flavor a little bechamel sauce with essence of anchovies, place the c^ croustades on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot. Poached Eggs with Bechamel Sauce. Pour one pint of bechamel sauce into a saucepan, and set it on the hot stove; cut twelve hard-boiled eggs in halves, and put them into the hot bechamel sauce; season with white pepper, and warm up thoroughlv for three minutes, but without boiling; add one ounce of butter and one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg; pour the whole onto a hot dish, and serve with six croutons of fried bread. Poached Eggs with Celery Sauce. Boil two heads of well-washed celery in one quart of white broth for fifteen min- utes. Take them out, cut in one-inch lengths, return to the pan with the broth leav- ing it on the stove to keep hot, and season with salt and white pepper. Reduce the liquor to three-quarters (which will require about ten minutes) pour in one gill of hot 590 EGGS AND OMELETS. bechamel sauce, and boil again. Poach twelve eggs and arrange them neatly around a hot dish, pour the sauce in the center, and serve quickly. Poached Eggs with Mushrooms. Have a quarter of a pound of mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, put them into a saucepan with a tablcspoonful of butter, season with salt and white pepper, and squeeze in two or three drops of lemon juice. Cover over the pan and cook for ten minutes over a moderate fire; add about a quarter of a wineglassful of Madeira wine, and reduce to half the original quantity; add one gill of bechamel sauce and bring the whole to a boiling point. Poach twelve eggs. Pour the sauce on a hot dish, keeping the mushrooms in the saucepan, lay the eggs neatly over the sauce in a circle on a dish and place the mushrooms in the center. Poached Eggs with Wine Sauce. Pour into a stewpan one pint of claret with two sprigs of parsley and a sprig of thyme tied together; also a small onion, one clove of garlic, one clove, salt and pepper to taste; boil for a quarter of an hour; strain through a fine hair sieve and return it to the stewpan. Break in carefully one egg and leave it in one minute, then take it out with a skimmer and place it on a dish; proceed in this manner until eight eggs have been used, then put the dish in a warm place. Work one tablcspoonful of flour with a quarter of a pound of butter, put it into the wine sauce, stir over the fire and boil until reduced to a thick cream. Pour the sauce over the eggs, and serve. Eggs, Poulette Style. Boil a gill of milk with a little chopped parsley, a small lump of butter, and a pinch of pepper and salt; add six hard-boiled eggs peeled and cut into slices, also a few button mushrooms. When the eggs are hot, arrange on a dish, thicken the sauce with arrowroot, pour it over, and serve. Eggs, Queen Style. Boil eight eggs gently in a saucepan for five minutes; take them, strip off the shells and plunge into cold water. Put the meat of a cooked fowl in a mortar and pound it well, adding one tablcspoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. When well mixed, nil) this through a sieve into a saucepan, warm it, and if too thick, add a little cream. Put it on a dish, place the eggs in a circle with a small piece of tongue or truffle between them, and garnish the dish with croutons of fried bread. A rice border niav ■ 1 with the puree piled in the center, and garnished with the ej EGGS AND OMELETS. 591 Scrambled Eggs. Beat up four eggs and add a pinch of salt. Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter; pour in the eggs, and stir briskly over a quick fire for one minute. Toast and butter some slices of bread, put them on a dish, pour the eggs over, and serve very hot. Scotch Woodcock. Beat thoroughly three eggs with a little anchovy paste; pour them into a saucepan with three-quarters of a breakfast cupful of milk, and stir them over the fire until thick, but without boiling. Cut four slices of bread, remove the crusts, and toast them to a light brown. Butter the toast, spread also some anchovy paste over, and arrange them on a hot dish. Pour the custard over, and serve very hot. Scrambled Eggs with Cream and Mushrooms. Beat together four eggs and season with salt and pepper; put a quarter of a gill of cream and a small piece of butter in a fryingpan, melt the butter, pour in the beaten eggs, and stir quickly over the fire for three or four minutes. Before cooking the eggs, chop up some mushrooms, and frv them lightly in butter. Dish when the eggs are done after mixing the mushrooms with them. Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Beef. Fry two ounces of finely-chopped smoked beef in a sautepan for one minute. Scramble twelve eggs, mix them with the beef, and serve with any kind of garnish. Scrambled Eggs with Truffles. Put into a saucepan four sliced truffles with one wineglassful of Madeira wine and reduce to about half its original bulk, which will take about two minutes; add a tablespoonful of butter, and season with salt and pepper. Break eight eggs into the saucepan, and mix well with a wooden spoon or knife for three minutes over a quick fire without ceasing. Serve in a hot dish. Shirred Eggs. Butter the inside of a deep plate, and break into it as many eggs as will cover the bottom, shake a little pepper and salt over them, and place small pieces of butter on top; put in a moderate oven for five minutes, when they will be done. Spanish Eggs. Put into a saucepan one breakfast cupful of washed rice with a quart of boiling milk; add half a tablespoonful of salt and boil until done; strain the rice, drain on a 592 EGGS AND OMELETS. colander, and put into a basin; add two ounces of butter, mix well, and spread evenly on a dish. Cut into slices six hard-boiled eggs, arrange on the rice, and serve. Stuffed Eggs. Take twelve hard-boiled eggs, peel off the shells, cut them transversely in halves, remove the yolks, and put them in a mortar. Skin and bone eight anchovies, moisten them together with a little butter and some breadcrumbs, with a little milk, and pound with the yolks of the three raw eggs, seasoning to taste. Fry in a stewpan two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions until brown; add a teacupful of chopped mush- rooms, season with powdered sweet herbs, and sprinkle over breadcrumbs and chopped parsley; when cool, mix them with the pounded preparation. Fill the whites ,of the eggs with this. Melt some butter in a stewpan, put in the eggs, the cut side uppermost, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, basting now and then with butter. Put two halves together, arrange them in a circle on a dish with sprigs of parsley in the center and round the base of the eggs, and serve. Eggs Stuffed with Anchovies. Take some hard-boiled eggs, remove the shells, chop off a thin slice from each end, cut them in halves, take out the yolks and stand each half on its end on the dish in which they are to be served. For each egg take one anchovy, remove the scales and bones, cut them up very fine and mix with the yolks, previously crushed; put all into a saucepan with a little warm butter and stir until the butter is thoroughly mixed in. Put this into the whites and serve with Dutch sauce poured over. Eggs, Sultana. Put into a basin the yolks of three eggs with a tablespoonful and a half of olive oil and one tablespoonful of chutney, beat well and turn it out onto a dish. Break six eggs, one at a time, into a teacup, put them one by one on the sauce and set the dish in a moderate oven until the eggs are set, but not overdone. Serve on the same dish very hot. Surprise Eggs. Break the required number of eggs into a pan of boiling water to poach, but without cooking them hard; take them out to put in a basin with a squeeze of lemon juice, finely-chopped parsley and salt, and steep for several hours; take them out again, drain, put them in batter, then into some breadcrumbs, and fry one or two at a time in boiling fat until done to a light brown. Arrange some sprigs ol parsley on a dish, place the eggs on the parsley, and serve. EGGS AND OMELETS. 593 Curried Egg Tartlets. Line some small tartlet moulds with very fine paste and cook them in the oven after filling them with raw rice; when they arc baked empty the rice and unmuuld and leave them in a dry place. Boil a few eggs till quite hard and cut the whites into very small dice; mix them in with some creamy curry sauce, adding a little chutney. Just when prepared to serve fill the tartlets with this preparation and be- strew them with the yolks rubbed through a sieve so that the entire surfaces arc cov- ered. Serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Trenton Eggs. Chop up fine one dozen hard-boiled eggs; add salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a pint of cream sauce, mingling all well together. Roll this preparation into balls the size of an c^ir; dip them first into flour, then into beaten raw egg, and lastly in breadcrumbs, and fry in very hot fat. Dress the croquettes on a bed of mashed sweet potatoes, and pour a little tomato sauce around. Turban of Eggs. Stew a pound of fresh mushrooms, then cut them up very fine; stir them into a glassful of bechamel sauce, adding the yolks of six raw eggs. Pour this preparation into a buttered border-mould, and poach it for a quarter of an hour in a double steamer. Unmould and dress the border into a dish, and on top arrange six soft eggs, with a fine cockscomb between each one; cover with Spanish sauce. Tuscany l ; «ggs. Arrange six fried eggs in a circle, placing a square piece of cooked ham between each one; form a second circle above with halved mutton kidneys stewed in butter and Madeira sauce. Two Brother Eggs. Line six tartlet moulds with puff paste, having had six turns and rolled out very thin; cook the tartlets in the oven and keep them warm. Heat five eggs with a handful of grated Parmesan cheese, seasoning with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Scramble these eggs, keeping them quite soft, and fill the tartlets two- thirds high with them; in each one lav a poached egg, and stew chopped parsley over Dress them onto a folded napkin, and serve at once. Eggs, Valencienne Style. Put one breakfast cupful of hot, boiled rice into a saucepan with half a pint of hot tomato sauce, two mushrooms, one truffle cut into small pieces, and two tablespoon- 594 EGGS AND OMELETS. fuls of grated Parmesan cheese; season with salt and grated nutmeg, and cook over a hot fire for five minutes, stirring lightly with a wooden spoon. Remove the pan to the side of the stove to keep warm; put half an ounce of butter into a dish and set it on the hot stove to melt; break in eight fresh eggs, being careful not to injure the yolks, season with salt and pepper, and cook for two minutes. Arrange the rice mixture in four dome-shaped heaps, one at each end of the dish, and one at each side, place the eggs in the center, and serve immediately. Vol-au-Vent of Eggs. Make a vol-au-vent case, and fill it with alternate layers of puree of mushrooms and scrambled eggs, adding a little tomato sauce onto each layer, and between these strew some grated cheese. Washington Eggs. Toast eight round slices of bread and lay them on a dish, cut some fresh tomatoes across in two, fry in butter and put a half on each slice of toast, on top arrange a round slice of sweet peppers. Lay two poached eggs on every one of the prepared toasts, and pour cream sauce mingled with tomato sauce around. Eggs with Asparagus. Take some asparagus tops, chop into small pieces about the size of peas, and boil them, take them out, put into another saucepan with a little butter, chives and a small quantity of parsley, set the pan over a rather slow fire, add a little water, flour and salt and sugar to taste, and let them cook until quite done; arrange on a dish with a few eggs broken over, and season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Put the dish on a hot stove, cook the eggs with a hot salamander, keeping the yolks soft, and serve in the dish they were cooked in. Eggs with Cheese and Parsley. Grate four ounces of Parmesan cheese and chop fine a few sprigs of parsley; melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan, put in the parslev and fry for a few minutes; then add the cheese and two wineglassfuls of white wine and stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until the cheese is melted. Break in one egg, stir it well, then add another egg and so on until eight have been used. Turn the mixture out onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, ami serve. Eggs with Cream. Chop some cold chicken very fine, season to taste. Take a poacher and put a little ol the chicken over the bottom of each compartment, depress it in the center EGGS AND OMELETS. 595 and break into each, one egg; poach in water until quite set. Place on a dish with a folded napkin and serve with thick cream sauce. gs with Kidneys. Eg Break into a buttered dish twelve fresh eggs, or if desired, use six small dishes, breaking two eggs into each one; then cook them on the stove for two minutes. Cut into halves six mutton kidnevs and broil, or stew them according to taste; then add them to the eggs, and serve with half a pint of hot perigueux. Eggs with Tomato Sauce. Boil until hard, three eggs; peel and cut the whites into strips and put these over the fire with tomato sauce and let them get quite hot. Put a layer of this on a hot dish with pieces of fried bread all around. Chop the yolks of the eggs, put :> layer over the sauce and egg white, then more tomato and more chopped egg, and so on until the yolks of the eggs and the tomato sauce are all dished, having a layer of the yolks on top. Farinaceous. Cheese Biscuits. Grate into a mortar five or six ounces of any desired cheese, mix with it a tea- cupful of the best wheat flour, and one-half pound of cream curds; season with a small quantity of salt, and pound well, adding gradually five ounces of warm butter; then mix in a sufficient quantity of beaten eggs to form a stiff paste. Sprinkle a little flour over a table, put the paste on it and roll it out until very thin. Cut the paste into rounds with a tin cutter about one and one-half inches in diameter, arrange them on butter baking-sheets allowing a small space between each, and bake in a quick oven. When cooked put the biscuits on an ornamental dish-paper, or a folded table napkin, and serve while they are hot. Cheese Patties. Have a slice of bread one and one-half inches thick, cut it into small rounds with a cutter, hollow out the middle to form a little cup. Fry eight of these in butter, first dipping them in milk and egg and breadcrumbs. Mix together two ounces of grated cheese, one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of milk, and a little salt and cay- enne; fill the breads with this mixture, stand them in the oven, and when the cheese is melted, serve them. Cheese Straws. (i). Put one-half saltspoonful each of cayenne and salt into two ounces of flour; then mix in two ounces of butter, and add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; mix all these to a thick paste with the yolk of an egg. Roll this out to about five inches in length, cut it into rings and strips, lay them on a greased baking-sheet and bake for ten minutes in a fast oven. When they are done pass the straws through the rings like a bundle of sticks, and serve. (2). Roll thin scraps of puff paste, sprinkle over with grated cheese, fold, roll out, and sprinkle again; then repeat the process and place on the ice to harden. When cold roll out to an oblong flat an eighth of an inch thick, place it on a baking sheet, and with a pastry cutter, cut into strips four or five inches long and less than a quarter of an inch wide. Bake and serve piled in cross triangles or squares. When the paste is very hard it is necessary to cut them as narrow as possible, laving them in the pans in groups of five or six, with one stalk tied round the middle to represent .1 bundle of straws, and baked in that position. 596 FARINACEOUS. 597 German Dumplings. Take two or three small rolls, remove the crusts and cut the crumb into small pieces ; put these into a basin, pour over boiling milk and let them soak ; press so as to draw off the milk, put them into a saucepan and beat over the fire with a spoon until hot ; then move to the side and season with salt and pepper. Cut half a pound of bacon into small pieces and fry them with some of the crusts of the bread cut into small pieces. Mix the fried crusts and bacon with the soaked bread; add in small lumps five ounces of butter and sufficient beaten egg to bind the mixture without making it too soft ; then divide it into small equal sized masses, and roll them evenly around. Plunge the dumplings into a saucepan of boil- ing water, salted, and boil for ten minutes, keeping the saucepan covered. When cooked, drain them and pour over them brown clarified butter. Hard Dumplings. Mix with half a pound of flour, a small quantity of salt, and make into a paste with cold water, keeping it rather firm. Cut the paste into small portions, make into balls and plunge these into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil for twenty minutes, being careful not to lift the lid of the saucepan until the dumplings are done. Take them out of the saucepan, pull them apart in the center, and serve with preserves, butter, sugar 'or gravy. Indian Dumplings. Skin a quarter of a pound of beef suet, chop fine and dredge well with flour; add one saltspoonful of salt and a pint and a half of cornmcal, and mix all together well ; add sufficient milk to form a stiff dough, knead well and divide into equal por- tions. On a well floured paste-board, form into balls not larger than an orange, beat them with a rolling-pin to make them light, and then tie them loosclv in small cloths dipped into boiling water, wrung dry and well floured. Plunge the dumplings into boiling water and keep boiling incessantly for two hours; then take them out and dip for an instant into cold water before untying the cloths. Serve hot with boiled meat. Cheese Fondu. Place five or six eggs in a saucepan, mix in a third of their weight of grated Parmesan cheese, and half this quantity of butter, and stir well over a slack fire until the eggs are set. Four the mixture into a dish, and serve very hot. Slices of toast should go with this. Fondus in Cases. Put a quarter of a pound of grated cheese in a basin with two tablespoonfuls of warmed butter and the volks of two eggs; season with salt and pepper, and stir well 59 8 FARINACEOUS. together. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, then add them gradually to the cheese, stirring lightly. Take some paper cases and fill three parts with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked and lightly browned, arrange on a folded napkin, and serve. Boiled Hominy. ( i ) W T ash the hominy in cold water, and then soak it for ten or twelve hours in tepid water; put it over a slow fire with the water in which it has been soaking, and boil gently for from three to six hours, adding more water to keep it from burning. Use soft water, and do not add salt while cooking, as it hardens the hominy. (2) Wash the hominy well in cold water, put it into an earthenware pan or basin, pour over sufficient boiling water to cover, and let it remain all night. Then drain and place it over the fire with one quart of water to every pint of hominy, and boil for five to six hours, stirring frequently; then drain it quite dry in a colander or sieve, and serve hot in a deep dish, it is very palatable when eaten with pork, bacon or beef, or almost any kind of meat. Any cold hominy that may be left can be made into cakes the following day, with the addition of a little wheat flour, and fried in boiling lard, or it may be boiled for an hour, and served as at first. Hominy Cakes. Boil one quart or so of hominy very soft and add to it one pound of corn meal and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix into it three well-beaten eggs and sufficient milk to make a thin batter. Beat the batter well for a few minutes, then bake it on a griddle, dropping it on in large spoonfuls and making it very thin, or they may be baked in waffle-irons. Serve maple syrup with them. Yeast may be used instead of eggs, putting one tablcspoonful in the batter and allowing it to stand for several hours in a warm place to rise. Hominy Croquettes. Place one pint of cooked hominy in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of hot milk and stir it over the fire till hot. Remove from the fire, mix a beaten yolk of an egg with it, season to taste with salt, and leave till cool. Shape the mixture into croquettes, then roll them in breadcrumbs, heat a lump of butter in a fryingyan, put in the croquettes and fry them. When browned, drain, lay them on a napkin, and serve. Fried Hominy. Take some cold boiled hominy and make it into a soft paste by stirring in one beaten egg, two tablespoonfuls of warmed butter, and a small quantity of milk; stir the mixture over the fire until well incorporated and hot, then turn it onto a dish and FARINACEOUS. 599 leave until cold. Divide it into small round cakes and dredge them lightly with flour; put a large lump of butter into a flat stewpan, and when boiling, put in the cakes and fry until equally browned. Drain them, pile on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, and serve with cream and sugar, Baked Macaroni. Put nine ounces of macaroni without breaking it into a saucepan with boiling salted water and when done drain, put it into a stewpan, add a little pepper and grated nutmeg to taste and thicken with a iuw tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce. Warm this up on the fire for a few minutes, take it off, toss the pan and add one- fourth pound of butter, two ounces each of grated Parmesan and also of grated Gruvere cheese and pour the whole into a baking-dish. Sprinkle with a little more cheese and gratinate for thirty minutes in the oven; then serve. Macaroni, Bolognese Style. Break some lasagna or macaroni into convenient lengths and boil in salted water. Thoroughly wash sufficient spinach, using plenty of water, as it is very gritty; put it into a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt and boil until tender. Drain the spinach well, pass it through a fine hair-sieve and put it into a stewpan; moisten with a little rich veal gravy and stir it over the the for a few minutes. When the macaroni is cooked drain it, arrange on a deep dish in alternate layers with the spinach, plac- ing a good supply of grated Parmesan cheese between each layer, cover the dish and place it in a moderately hut oven for about three-quarters of an hour. When ready serve tin- macaroni very hot in the dish in which it was cooked. Curried Macaroni. Put a quantity of macaroni in a saucepan of salted water and boil for twenty minutes; remove, drain, put it in a saucepan with some curry sauce and simmer it gently for from five to ten minutes. Keep each piece of macaroni separate and do not allow it to be cooked to a paste. Serve it hot. Macaroni, Genovese Style. Boil half a dozen fresh pork sausages in stock; when cooked drain and let them old. Boil the necessary quantity of macaroni in salted water and when thor- oughly tender turn it out onto a sieve to drain. Cut the sausages in slices and arrange them with alternate layers of the macaroni on a deep dish, strewing grated Parmesan cheese between each layer. Pour over the contents of the dish some nicely-flavored rich veal gravy, cover the dish and place it in a slow oven for about one hour. Serve the macaroni very hot in the dish in which it was cooked. 600 FARINACEOUS. Macaroni, Italian Style. Boil three-fourths of a pound of macaroni, place it in a saucepan with one gill each of tomato and Madeira sauces, and one-fourth of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, season with pepper and nutmeg to taste, and cook slowly for ten minutes, tossing slowly but frequently. Arrange on a hot dish, and serve with grated cheese separate! v. Boil one-fourth pound of macaroni in water until tender, then add one breakfast cupful of milk and thicken with flour and water. Now add two tablespoon- fuls of made mustard, and a proper seasoning of pepper, salt and cavenne. Stir in one-half pound of grated Parmesan cheese, boil for a few minutes longer, and serve. Macaroni, Milanese Style. Cut a piece of lean veal and two ounces of raw ham into moderate-sized pieces, put them into a stewpan with a chopped onion and carrot, and a sufficient quantity of butter, and fry until nicely browned, adding one wineglassful of white wine and stock to cover. Put in a bunch of sweet herbs, including a few sprigs of parsley, a small bottleful of tomato sauce, and a few chopped mushrooms. When boiling move the stewpan to the edge of the fire, and stew the contents gently for three hours. Next, strain the gravy through a fine sieve; put the other ingredients, with the ex- ception of the bundle of herbs, into a mortar, and pound to a smooth paste; then return the mixture to the stewpan with the gravy, and boil it gently for twenty or thirty minutes longer. Boil the required quantitv of macaroni and drain it well; cut some milk cheese into slices. Strain the graw into another stewpan, put in two ounces of butter broken into small pieces, and keep it hot at the edge of the fire. Arrange the macaroni and slices of cheese in layers in a deep dish with grated Par- mesan cheese over them, moisten with the above gravy, dust a small quantity of powdered cinnamon over the top, and cover the dish. Place it in a slow oven, and leave for an hour. At the end of that time take it out of the oven, and serve while very hot in the same dish. Macaroni, Neapolitan Style. Place a saucepan of water on the fire, boil it up, anil put into it one heaping teaspoonful of salt; as soon as it boils up again, throw in one pound of macaroni, let it boil for half an hour, then drain in a colander, (irate six or eight ounces of cheese; put a layer of the boiled macaroni in a deep dish, sprinkle it with grated cheese, and so on until the dish is full. Pour over it some hot gravy. Melt on the fire one-fourth of a pound of butter, pour it over the top. and serve as hot as possible. FARINACEOUS. 601 Stewed Macaroni. Simmer one-fourth pound of macaroni in enough water to cover; when soft, turn it onto a sieve, drain, and leave until cold. Put in one teaspoonful of salt, taking care not to allow the macaroni to break or lose its shape. Chop very fine all the white meat of a fowl and three or four slices of ham, and season to taste with salt, white pepper and grated Parmesan cheese. Beat well with the yolks of three eggs, and the white of one separatelv. Mix the minced fowl and ham into the beaten volks, stir in one-fourth pint of cream, then beat in lightly the frothed white of egg, and carefully mix in the macaroni. Butter a mould, place the mixture into it, cover it closely, and steam for an hour. Turn out onto a hot dish, pour some gravy over, and serve hot. Macaroni Timbalcs. Put one-half pound of macaroni into a saucepan of salted water, ami boil until tender, drain, and cut it into pieces about two inches in length. Reduce one wine- glassful of bechamel sauce in a saucepan over the fire, stirring in gradually a few tablespoonfuls of gravy; when well flavored, remove it from the fire, ami pour it on the macaroni, together with a little powdered cinnamon and five ounces of butter. Meanwhile butter a timbale mould, sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, and line with sweetened tartlet-paste. Pour in the preparation, cover it with a ll.it of the paste, and place it in a moderate oven to bake. In about forty-five minutes remove it from the oven, place it on a dish, sprinkle over sugar flavored with cinnamon, and serve. Macaroni with Cheese. Put plenty of water in a large saucepan together with a lump of salt, ami place it over the fire; when the water boils quickly throw in the macaroni, first breaking it into moderate lengths. Stir frequently until tender then pour in a jugful of cold water, and drain the water off. Put about one-fourth pound of butter in a stewpan, and place it over the fire until lightly browned; turn the macaroni onto a hot dish, pour over the butter, strew plenty of grated Parmesan cheese over it, ami serve. Macaroni with ('ream. Boil in plenty of salted water for three quarters of an hour three- fourths of a pound of macaroni, adding one-half ounce of butter and one cnion stuck with two cloves. Drain well, and put it back into a saucepan with one-third of a pound each of butter, grated Parmesan and grated (iruvere cheese, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Moisten with one-half pint of white broth and lour tablespoonfuls of en. tin. Cook all together for five minutes, stirring well, and when the macaroni is soft, dish it up, and serve. 602 FARINACEOUS. Macaroni with Gravy. Prepare a small quantity of veal gravy, skim off the fat and mix with it a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a little raw ham, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a small quantity of pepper. Place this at the side of the fire and let it simmer until wanted. Meanwhile boil some macaroni in a little salted water ; when tender drain, and before it gets cold take up small quantities with a skimmer and put them in layers in a deep dish. Cover each layer with grated Parmesan cheese, moisten with a little of the gravy strained through a sieve and mixed with a little butter, and serve very hot. If the gravy is too thin, thicken it with a little meat-glaze. Macaroni with Ham. Put two ounces of macaroni broken in pieces in a saucepan with one pint of highly seasoned stock, and boil until tender; add a little salt, pepper and butter, and turn it onto a hot dish with two ounces of minced cooked fat ham or streaky bacon, sprinkle over a few fried breadcrumbs, and serve. Macaroni with Kidneys. Boil one-fourth pound of macaroni. Remove the fat from half a dozen mutton kidneys, or one beef kidney, skin them, cut them open, season with salt, cayenne and powdered mixed herbs and fry in butter, browning nicely on both sides; then stir in three-fourths of a pint of gravy flavored with tomatoes. Place the kidneys on a hot dish, surround them with the boiled macaroni, pour over the gravy, and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and some chopped hard-boiled eggs, with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese. Macaroni with Tomatoes. Break one-fourth pound of macaroni in lengths of about three inches, plunge them into a saucepan of boiling salted water, and boil for twenty minutes or so until done. Take them out, drain, and put them in a baking-dish; mix in one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, one teacupful of stewed tomatoes, an equal quantity of brown meat gravy, a lump of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the dish in a slack oven, allow the mixture to simmer gently for thirty minutes, and serve. It need not be baked unless desired, and care must be exereised to see that the flavor ot the tomatoes is not too strong, and also that it is not salted too much. Noodles. These are virtually the same, the former being a French adaptation of the original German paste; but national tastes have served in a measure to modify the shapes and FARINACEOUS. 603 applications, as will be seen in the following recipes, which are classified, in order to avoid confusion, into noodles, nudles and dampf-nudels. The paste is similar in all cases, consisting essentially of eggs and flour. Baked Noodles. Boil a sufficient quantity of noodles in water, drain thoroughly, and put them in a stewpanwith enough cold milk to cover; two ounces of butter, about four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and pepper and grated nutmeg to taste. Toss the noodles over the fire for several minutes, then pile them on a hot dish, strew plenty of grated bread- crumb over, and brown them in a brisk oven. Serve very hot. Noodles with Parmesan Cheese. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan placed on a hot stove, and when melted, mix in one and one-half ounces of flour, a little salt, a very little cavenne and a tea- cupful of milk. Work these to a firm paste and add three eggs and four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Have reach- a saucepan of boiling water, take the prepara- tion up in small quantities with a spoon, drop them in the boiling water and boil for a quarter of an hour. Take them out, drain, place them on a hot dish, garnish with a folded napkin or fancy dish-paper, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich brown sauce. Nudels. Although made of the same kind of paste as the noodles, the peculiarity of these according to German ideas is that they are cut into shreds or thin strips. Mix in a basin one teaspoonful of salt with one-half pound of flour, then mix in four beaten eggs and work the dough until smooth. Dredge Hour over a paste-board, place the dough on it and knead well. Roll the dough very thin and then twist it up like a rolled jelly-cake, cut half the roll into strips one-half inch thick and the other into strips one-fourth inch thick, place the wider strips of paste in a saucepan of boiling water and boil for fifteen minutes. Put one-fourth pound of butter into a flat stewpan, and when blue smoke arises, throw in the narrow strips of paste and fry till lightly browned. Turn the boiled strips of paste, when done, on a sieve, drain and lay on a hot dish on which has been placed a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper. Next, drain the other strips as free from fat as possible and pile on the top of the boiled ones. Strew powdered sugar over them, and serve with cream. Dampf-Nudels, Polish Style. Put one and one-half pounds of dampf-nudel paste and set it in a warm place to rise. Then turn out on a floured board and work it well with the hands for a few 6o 4 FARINACEOUS. minutes; let it get quite cold, roll out very thin and with a small tin cutter, cut it into rounds. Have prepared some apple marmalade reduced and mixed with rum, put a little of this on each round, fold over the paste and turn them upside down on a but- tered baking-sheet. Place where they will keep warm for forty-five minutes to rise, then brush them over with warm butter, put them with the baking-sheet into a moderate oven and bake until done. Remove the baking-sheet, dredge a little fine sugar over them, glaze slightly, lay a napkin over a dish and place them on in a pyramidal form, and serve. Italian Paste. What is known by this name is merelv an admixture of fine wheat flour and water, used chiefly in the manufacture of macaroni and vermicelli. Macaroni Paste. This consists essentially of the best white flour moistened with water. It is most general lv known as Italian paste. Indian Pilau. Throw one teacupful of rice into fast-boiling water, let it boil for twentv min- utes, then drain through a colander or sieve. Stir in one ounce of butter and a little pepper and salt. Pile the rice in a hot dish, garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs and surround it with onions fried till dry. Rice Pilau. Throw half a pound of rice into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, add a small lump of salt and place it over the fire till it boils. After the rice has cooked for five minutes drain off the water, freshen it with cold water, drain that off also, cover the rice with a thick folded-cloth and leave it bv the ahj;e of the fire until swollen and soft. Put one-half pound of fresh butter into a basin and place it in the oven or near the fire until dissolved, then remove any scum that may have gathered on the top, and pour the butter over the rice. It is then ready for serving'. Turkish Pilau. Put a breakfast cupful of stewed and strained tomatoes in a saucepan with one- half pint of broth, one minced onion and season well with pepper and salt. When boiling put one breakfast cupful of well-washed rice in, stir it lightly till the liquor is absorbed, then put in one teacupful of butter. Place the pan over a slow fire and Steam for twentv minutes. Remove the lid, stir the pilau lightly, cover with a cloth and let tin- strain escape; add a breakfast cupful of chopped and cooked meat if de- sired. Serve the pilau as a vegetable without the meat and as an entree with it. FARINACEOUS. 605 Polenta and Cheese. Stir into some boiling water enough polenta, adding a little salt; then move the saucepan to the side of the fire and boil until done, say from fifteen to twenty min- utes. Pour into a basin and let it cool; then turn out of the basin, cut it into slices, trimming them to one size; butter a pic-dish and place the polenta in, in layers with grated cheese, salt and a little cayenne strewn over each layer. Sprinkle the cheese, liberally over the top, and put the dish in a quick oven until nicely browned on top and serve while hot in the dish it is cooked in. Polenta Timbale, Milanese. Place three pints of salted water in a saucepan on the fire and when boiling re- move to the side, scatter in one pound of polenta, simmer it gently until it becomes quite thick, then add a little butter and stir thoroughly. Pour it into a well-buttered timbale mould and let it cool for four or five hours; next turn the loaf of polenta out of the mould, wipe the mould inside and again butter it, sprinkle in a few sifted breadcrumbs and replace the loaf in the mould; cut out a round from the flat portion and scoop out some of the inside, leaving about half an inch in thickness all over; cut into slices a couple of blanched sweetbreads, sprinkle over them a little salt and pepper and place them in a saucepan with a little warm butter and fry until the meat is set; next pour over a cupful of white wine and add to this twelve mushrooms cut into quarters and eight ounces of lean ham or bacon cut into small pieces; place the lid on the pan and reduce the liquor quickly to a glaze; pour in a little Spanish sauce and a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce mixed in with it and add two dozen small veal quenelles which have been tolled in flour and poached. Pass this preparation through into the hollow of the loaf of polenta and cover over the top with the piece which was cut off, fastening it on with a little forcemeat or a little of the liquid polenta; spread some butter over the top, place the mould in the oven and let it re- main there for nearly one hour, then turn it out onto a dish; loosen it by pushing a knife between the loaf and the mould, and it is then ready to be served with a gar- nish of potato croquettes. Baked Ravioli. Take one-fourth pound of veal, four ounces of calf's liver, three ounces of sausage-meat, four ounces of cither beef-marrow or calf's-kidnev fat, and a little mixed powdered herbs; mince all very fine, season with salt and pepper, ami pound in a mortar; add a handful of spinach, which has been blanched, boiled, drained, and warmed in butter the same quantity of curd cheese, which has been squeezed in a cloth, so as to extract all the milk, and pound again; then stir in the yolks of two and whisk up the whites and add them to it. Make some short paste as for rissoles, and cut it into small squares; wet the edges and fold them over a little of 606 FARINACEOUS. Lhc forcemeat placed in the center, and poach in boiling stock for five minutes; then drain, place on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, moisten with stock, brown in the oven, and serve very hot. Ravioles for Soup< Divide one pound of noodles into halves, and roll them both out very thin, having them of an equal size and as nearly scjuare as possible. Put any kind of forcemeat into a paper funnel and squeeze it out in small lumps, in rows, over one of the halves, keeping the lumps about one inch apart, cover with the remaining half of the paste, pressing it down between the forcemeat, and then cut out the ravioles with a small, round tin cutter, say about one and one-half inches in diameter. As they are done, place them upon a well-floured cloth, using only half of it, and covering over with the other half. When all the ravioles are cut, plunge them into a sauce- pan of boiling water, and boil them for three minutes; then remove the pan from the fire, put on the cover, and let it stand for four minutes longer. Place the ravioles on a sieve to drain, put them in a sautepan, pour over four ounces of melted butter, and strew over a few tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Warm them for a minute, remove the pan from the fire, and toss it; then remove the ravioles with a skimmer, place them on a dish, sprinkle them over with a little more grated Parmesan cheese, and pour over a few tablespoonfuls of hot glaze, mixed with an equal quan- tity of tomato sauce. A tureenful of rich soup should always accompanv these. Rice Border. Arrange plain boiled rice in a circle, as for serving curry, or work it into a border- mould, as follows: Wash thoroughly in two or three waters one breakfast cupful of rice, place it in a saucepan with three breakfast cupfuls of cold water, and boil slowly for half an hour ; then stir in two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoon- ful of salt. Beat this mixture up until it is very smooth, and then add two well- beaten eggs. Stir thoroughly, place the mixture in a buttered border-mould, and stand it in the oven for a few minutes. Turn it out onto a dish and fill the center with curry, or anything else prepared for the purpose. Rice Case or Croustade. Put eight ounces of rice into a saucepan with one quart of water and one ounce of butter or fat from cooked bacon, sprinkle in salt and pepper to taste, and boil until the rice is quite tender and dry. Place it in a mortar, pound it well, form it into the shape of a ball on a baking-sheet, and then into the shape of a raised pie. Brush it over both inside and out with warmed butter, set it in the oven to color, take it out, and it is then ready fur use. It may be filled with forcemeat, sausage-balls, or any- thing else that is desired. FARINACEOUS. 607 Rice Croquettes, Italian Style. Put two breakfast cupfuls of rice into a saucepan, and boil it with milk, so that when it is done it will be soft and pasty. Meanwhile chop fine half of a cold cooked fat liver, season, put it into a basin, and mix in a third of its bulk of truffles also cut fine. Pour one breakfast cupful of bechamel sauce into a saucepan, add the trimmings of the truffles, reduce the liquor and add one teacupful of thick gravy or melted glaze; when the mixture is of a good consistency, strain it into the basin with the fat liver. Pack the basin in ice, and when the mixture is quite cold, take a little up at a time in a small spoon, roll it into a pear-shape, and cover it with the rice, taking care to see that it is firm. When they are all done, dip them into egg and breadcrumbs, fry them carefully in boiling fat, drain them, place them on a nap- kin, spread over a dish, garnish neatly with fried parsley, and serve. Croustades of Rice, Queen Style. Wash well, and boil in a saucepan one quart of rice with two quarts of broth and one ounce of butter. Keep it as dry as possible, so that it remain firm, and add to it one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, one teaspoonful of pepper, and one-third tea- spoonful of grated nutmeg. Stir well with a wooden spoon, and then put in a but- tered sautcpan, spreading it about two inches thick, and covering it with a piece of buttered paper. Leave it to cool, with a weight pressed down on the top. Then cut it out with a paste-cutter into half a dozen croustades (being careful to dip the cutter into warm water each time it is used), and with a smaller paste-cutter, make a mark on the surface of each without cutting. Dip the pieces in beaten egg, roll them in breadcrumbs, and repeat tliis operation; then fry them in very hot lard lor five min- utes, drain, empty them with a vegetable spoon, and fill the insides with a hot salpicon of shrimps, mushrooms and cream sauce. Place the covers on the top, and serve on a dish covered with a folded napkin. Curried Rice. Mix smoothly one dessertspoonful of curry-paste with one tablcspoonful of rich brown gravy; place it in a saucepan with one breakfast cupful more of the gravy and boil; then add to it one pound of well-washed rice, and simmer it gently at the side of the fire for thirty minutes, or until the rice is done. Turn it out onto a dish, squeeze over the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Fried Rice. Roil the rice and cool it in a dish; when it is cold, turn it from the dish, cut it into slices nearly one inch thick, season them with salt and pepper, and then roll them in cornmcal. Have in readiness a frying -kettle half full of smoking-hot fat, and 6o8 FARINACEOUS. fry the pieces of rice in it until they are of a golden brown. Remove them from the fat with a skimmer, place them on brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and serve. Rice in Turkish Style. Put three pints of clear stock into a saucepan with plenty of tomato sauce and salt and pepper to taste; when it boils, throw in one and one-half pounds of well- washed and dried rice, and let it simmer until the mixture is well absorbed by the rice. Melt a large lump of butter, pour it over the rice, and leave it by the side of the fire for a few minutes. When ready to serve, stir the rice well, and turn it onto a hot dish. Rice Menagere. Put six ounces of well-washed rice into a saucepan of boiling water, and blanch it for five or six minutes; then remove and drain it. Blanch four or five ounces of streaky bacon, cut it up into pieces about one inch square, put them into a deep fryingpan and fry them until they are yellow, then add the rice, a small quantity of pepper, and about three breakfast cupfuls of rich broth. Stir often over the fire for about twenty minutes, then remove the pan from the fire, add one breakfast cupful of tomato sauce, turn the whole onto a dish, and serve. Rice Milanese. Pour one teacupful of milk into a saucepan on the fire, when it boils add one teacupful of well-washed rice, and a small quantity of finely-chopped onion. Cover the pan and boil slowly for about twenty minutes, by which time the rice should be soft and dry. Add a little saffron worked up with one ounce of butter, one ounce of grated cheese, and pepper and salt to taste. Stir well, and let the mixture remain on the side of the fire for ten minutes, turn it out onto a dish, and serve. Rice Patties. Put one-fourth pound of well-washed rice into a saucepan with sufficient white- stock to more than cover it, and boil slowly at the side of the fire until the rice is soft and the liquor all absorbed. A small quantity of milk should be added to the broth to give the rice a white appearance. Add a handful of grated Parmesan cheese to flavor, and when the rice is nearly of a jelly turn it out into a pan, keeping it about two inches in thickness. Cut the preparation into rounds with a tin cutter. Rissotto. Peel and mince fine one small onion; put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with one-half tablespoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire; when well mixed, put in FARINACEOUS. 609 the onion, and fry it until lightly browned. Wash one-fourth pound of rice, drain it, add it to the onion, pour in enough clear stock to cook it in, and boil until the grains have swollen but not mashed to a pulp. Shake the stewpan occasionally, but do not stir the rice with a spoon. When it is cooked, season it to taste with pepper and salt, and strain in a small quantity of lemon juice. Turn the rissotto onto a hot dish, strew some grated Parmesan cheese over it, and serve without delay. Milanese Rissotto. Peel and mince fine a small onion, put it into a stewpan with three ounces of butter, and fry it until it commences to brown; then put in one breakfast cupful of well-washed rice. Fry it for seven or eight minutes, and pour in just enough stock to boil the rice in. Add a pinch of saffron, and let it boil slowly and gently until tender. When the rice is soft, mix with it one breakfast cupful of grated Parmesan cheese, and stir it over the fire until the cheese has melted. Cut three rounds of bread, toast it to a light brown, then trim off the crusts. Butter the toast and lay it on a hot dish. Season the rice-mixture to taste with salt and pepper, turn it onto the toast, and serve. Spaghetti. A variety of macaroni which lias given its name to variov dixies prepared with it. Of these the following are very popular: Baked Spaghetti. Roil three-fourths of a pound of spaghetti, moistening it with one-half pint each of bechamel sauce and allemande sauce, seasoning with one-half pinch of ground nut- one pinch of pepper, and adding one-fourth pound of grated cheese. Toss well, put it into a baking-dish, sprinkle the top with grated cheese and breadcrumbs, pour over a little clarified butter and place it in the oven. At the end of about fifteen minutes, when it should be of a nice golden-brown color, take it from the oven, and serve. Spaghetti, Italian Stvle. Put three-fourths of a pound of boiled spaghetti into a saucepan, add one pint of tomato sauce and one-fourth pound of grated Parmesan cheese and season with one- half pinch of pepper and one-half pinch of grated nutmeg. Cook for ten minutes, tossing well, and serve with more cheese. Spaghetti, Neapolitan Style. Boil three-fourths of a pound of fine spaghetti, drain it and put it back into a saucepan with one-half pint each of tomato and Spanish sauce, six mushrooms, two 6io FARINACEOUS. truffles and a small piece of cooked, smoked red beef tongue, all cut up dice-shaped; season with one-half pinch of pepper and one-third of a pinch of grated nutmeg, adding one-fourth of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Cook for ten minutes and serve with some cheese, separately. Spaghetti with Cheese. Put one-fourth of a pound of spaghetti, broken into small pieces, in a saucepan of boiling water, with a lump of salt, and boil for twenty minutes. Drain the spag- hetti, and place it in a buttered baking-dish. Put one breakfast cupful of grated cheese into a saucepan with one teacupful of milk, and a lump of butter the size of an egg, and stir them over the fire until the cheese is nearly melted. Beat the yolks of two eggs together with one teacupful of milk, then stir them in with the cheese, and pour the whole over the spaghetti, and bake in a quick oven till of a rich yellow color. The cheese will be rendered tough if cooked too long. The spaghetti should be served while very hot. Spaghetti with Cream Sauce. Take one handful of the stick macaroni without breaking it, plunge it into boiling salted water, and boil until tender. As the stick softens, bend and coil it in the water, but be careful not to break. When cooked drain the spaghetti, and pour cold water through it. Serve with cream sauce. Welsh Rabbit. (i) Chop fine one quarter of a pound of cooking-cheese, put it in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, and as the cheese gets warm and the butter melts, mash them together. When softened, add the yolks of two eggs, one-half teacupful of beer, and a small quantity of cayenne and salt. Stir until it becomes creamy, but do not permit it to boil, as that would spoil it. Place some slices of buttered toast on a dish, pour the Welsh rabbit over, and place in the oven for about two minutes before serving. Some persons prefer milk in place of beer. (2) Take one-fourth pound of cheese, and, if soft, break it into small pieces; but if hard, grate it. Place half a teacupful of milk in a double boiler and add the cheese. Mix one teaspoonful of mustard and a little cayenne, and one teaspoonful of salt, add an egg, and be, it well. After the cheese has melted, add the egg mix- ture and one teaspoonful of butter; then cook for two minutes longer, or until it is done, taking care not to let it curdle. Pour the mixture over four slices of toast, free from crusts, and that have been kept warm, and then serve. Ale mav be used in place of the milk, or cream, if preferred. FARINACEOUS. 611 (3) Cut up into small pieces one pound of American cheese, place them in a saucepan, pour over half a tumblerful of good ale, and season with half a saltspoon- ful of cayenne pepper. Stir with a wooden spoon continually over the fire until the mixture is well melted, which will take about ten minutes. Have previously pre- pared six large pieces of toast, arrange them on a very hot dish, pour over the prep- aration, spreading it equally, and serve very hot. Baked Welsh Rabbit. Cut six slices of bread, toast slightly, cover with Gruvcre cheese cut into slices a little less than one-half an inch thick, and lav them in a roasting pan, sprinkling over pepper and salt to taste, and cover with browned breadcrumbs. Place the pan in the oven for about ten minutes. Arrange the toast on a hot dish, and serve. Welsh Rabbit, Oscar Style. For one rabbit, take a quarter of a pound of good American cheese, cut it in small pieces, take also a pinch of Paprika pepper, a pinch of powdered English mus- tard and about half a wineglassful of Rhine wine and half a wineglassful of Bass ale. Cook the whole together on a hot stove until the rabbit is well dissolved, and serve it with a piece of toast in a very hot dish. Hot Desserts. Apple Float. Rub a sufficient quantity of stewed apples through a coarse sieve, or mash them thoroughly. Sweeten with sugar and flavor with nutmeg, and add a spoonful at a time to the well-beaten whites of eggs (four eggs to each quart of apples used). Put in some cream and season with nutmeg at the bottom of the dish, placing the apples on top. Put in the oven for twenty minutes, and serve either hot or cold. Fried Apples. The apples should be cut into slices unpeeled and fried, a few at a time, in a large fryingpan with enough fat or lard to cover the bottom of the pan. When the slices are brown on one side, turn them over with a knife. Then place in a dripping. pan and put in the oven. If desired the slices of apple may be placed in flour befoic frying, and if soaked in cognac or rum the result is agreeable. Baked Apples. Core and peel some good cooking apples and set them nearlv touching each other in a shallow bakingpan; mix a teaspoonful of grated lemon rind with each six teaspoonfuls of sugar requisite, and fill the cavities caused by the removal of the cores, pour in a sufficient quantity of water to cover the bottom of the pan, and bake in a very quick oven until soft, basting frequently with the syrup formed of the water and sugar. Apricot Snowballs. Divide a sufficient quantity of boiled rice into six equal parts, and spread each over a small, wet pudding-cloth placed over a small basin to about a third of an inch in thickness. Cut half a dozen apricots only sufficient to extract the stones, fill the cavities With a little of the cooked rice, put them in the center of the rice, and draw the cloths gently around until the apricots are covered with the rice; then tie them securely, and put them in a steamer over a saucepan of boiling water and steam for ten minutes. Take out carefully and remove the cloths, put them on a dish and pour over a little sauce made from apricot syrup, and serve. 612 HOT DESSERTS. 613 Baked Bananas. Remove the skin from the bananas and cut them lengthwise in halves and arrange at the bottom of a baking-dish close together. Sprinkle them over with sugar, with a few lumps of butter on top and a little grated nutmeg over the whole, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. By this time the bananas should be well glazed, and if there is not sufficient of their own liquor to baste them with add a little to the dish a few minutes before taking out of the oven. They should be served with cake and milk. Apple Charlotte. Take a loaf of stale bread and, after removing all the crusts with a sharp knife, cut up the crumb into slices a third of an inch thick, and these slices again into fancy shapes, such as hearts, triangles, squares, rounds, etc. Cut out a round an inch and a half in diameter and lay in the center of the bottom of a round tin mould, then shape out several hearts large enough for the points to rest on the disc, while their rounded points touch the sides of the mould. Next cut some slices of the bread into rectangular strips and set them around the sides of the mould, standing upright, rest- ing on the round ends of the hearts and overlapping each other. Dip each piece of bread in warmed butter before setting in the mould. Have ready some thick apple marmalade prepared thus: Peel and core some apples and cut them into slices, then place in a saucepan and put in some sugar, the peel of a lemon cut thin and a bit of cinnamon tied together. Moisten with a little water. Put upon the stove and boil and then let simmer until the apples fall. Remove and take out the lemon peel and cinnamon and stir briskly with a wooden spoon until the marmalade is of a stiff con- sist ncv. Pour this into the bread-lined mould and cover the top with a slice of bread dipped in the warmed butter and cut to fit the mould. Put the charlotte into a brisk oven and bake until the bread is a golden brown. Turn out onto a dish and sprinkle caster sugar over it and then glaze it with a very hot salamander, pouring apricot marmalade around the dish; or, instead of the glazed sugar, cover the char- lotte over with apricot marmalade. Peach Charlotte. Peel six peaches, cut them in halves and take out their stones; chop them in little pieces, put them in a basin, sprinkle some vanilla sugar over and one wincglass- ful of rum. Cut some thin slices of cake into fingers and line a charlotte mould with them, letting them overlap each other. Stand the mould in a basin and surround it with pounded ice. Iu fifteen minutes put a layer of peaches at the bottom of the mould. Whip a little unset jelly with some maraschino, then pour sufficient into the mould to cover the peaches. Leave it till the jelly has set, then put in another layer of peaches and some more jelly; continue in the same manner till the mould is full, 6h HOT DESSERTS. allowing the jelly to set before another layer is put in. Lay a cover over the mould and keep it in ice for half an hour. Turn the charlotte out of the mould onto a dish, dip a paste-brush in some maraschino and brush all round to flavor it. Peel three whole peaches, cut them in quarters, garnish round the base of the charlotte with them, pour some maraschino syrup over, and serve. Pear Charlotte. Cut some thin slices of stale bread, without the crust, and cut out a round with a one and one-half inch in diameter tin-cutter, then cut some heart-shaped pieces of bread, and dip them and the round piece in warmed butter. Put the latter at the bottom of a plain round charlotte mould, arrange the heart-shaped pieces overlapping each other round it, cut the slices of bread into strips one and one-half inches wide and of the height of the mould, dip them in butter and stand them all round the mould, also overlapping each other. Pare and core fifteen pears, cut them in quar- ters, put them in a sautepan with a little butter and vanilla sugar, and fry them. Put the pears in the mould when cooked, and brown the charlotte in the oven. Turn the charlotte out on a hot dish, mask it with reduced apricot jam, and serv<_. Pineapple Charlotte. A charlotte mould should be lined with paper and some lady-fingers pointed on one side and arranged like a rosette with their glazed sides at the bottom of the mould; then place some long thin biscuits the same height as the mould, around the sides, standing upright, and place the mould in pounded ice. Mix with a pint of pine- apple syrup, three-quarters of an ounce of dissolved gelatine, a small quantity of grated lemon-peel and the juice of an orange ; strain the liquor through a sieve into a sugar- boiler and stir it over a fire until it becomes of the consistency of cream, then remove and mix with it half a pint of whipped cream and half a pound of either fresh pine- apple cut into small pieces, or the preserved pineaple. Then fill the lined mould with this preparation and leave it for about an hour to become set. Turn the char- lotte out onto a folded napkin, and serve. Conde Apricots. Divide and remove the kernels from some apricots and stew in a light syrup until done, together with the rind of a little lemon, pared thin. Next prepare a bor- der of rice suited to the dish to be used and fill the center with the apricot; pour some whipped cream over it just before serving with a sprinkle of pistachio nuts chopped very fine. Apple Croquettes. An apple marmalade is prepared as for apple-bread and formed In- the hands into the shape of pears. Have two or three well-whisked eggs in a dish or basin, dip HOT DESSERTS. 615 each croquette into this and throw them afterwards into a dish of very fine bread- crumbs. Smooth them over with a knife and dip a second time into the egg. Fry in a sautepan of very best lard until the bread colors a golden brown. Remove and place on a sieve to drain and then pile pyramid-fashion on a folded napkin and dust freely with sifted sugar which has been flavored with orange. Rice Croquettes (Sweet.) Put one-half pint of well-washed rice into a saucepan with one pint of water, or milk and water in equal proportions, and steam for half an hour, or until the rice is quite soft. When it is still hot, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, the volk of an egg well beaten, and a small quantity of hot milk, if required, to moisten it. Let it get cool; then make it into oval shapes, and put them into breadcrumbs, egg, and then crumbs again, and fry for a few minutes in boiling fat until done and light brown in color. After making the mixture into oval shapes, some cooks push the thumb into the center of each, and in the cavity place two boiled raisins or candied cherries, or a little jell) - or marmalade, then press the rice over the hole again; then dip in breadcrumbs, after in egg, and lastly in crumbs, and fry. Fruit Crusts. Cut slices of stale bread into pieces one inch thick with an oval cutter, also some others of a round shape; scoop out a small hollow in the center of them, fry in butter until lightly browned, and mask them inside with a little orange marmalade. Mix some preserved cherries with a salpicon of preserved fruits, thicken it with a little apricot marmalade, and add a little Madeira or sherry wine; put some fruit in the hollow of each crust. Fry a thick, round, flat block of bread, put it in the center of a dish and arrange the oval crusts almost upright, leaning around it; lav the round crusts on the top, stick some fruits on silver skewers and fix them in the top of the bread support. Mask the bottom of the dish and the crusts with a little apricot sauce to which has been added a little Madeira, and serve with more sauce in a sauceboat, with a lew Smyrna raisins that have been boiled in syrup for two minutes mixed up in it. Pineapple Crusts. Place in a basin one pound of tin- best sifted flour, make a hollow in the center and put in it half an ounce of German yeast and a tablespoonful of warmed milk. Stir in sufficient amount of flour to form a sponge, then set it to rise in a warm place. When it has risen to twice its original si/e, work in the remainder of the flour a teacupful of tepid milk and a couple of eggs; then add another three-quarters of a pound of butter beaten until creamy, with a tablespoonful of caster sugar, a little salt and half a teacupful of warm milk; work tin- paste thor- oughly and add eight more eggs, one at a time. Butter a plain cylinder-mould 616 HOT DESSERTS. eight inches in diameter, and pour in the cake mixture and bake; when it may be turned out of the mould and left until cold. Cut into slices and lay on a baking- sheet, dredge well with caster sugar and glaze in an oven. Then peel and slice some pineapples, place in a stewpan with some thin syrup and simmer them gently; set the trimmings of the pineapple in a mortar, and pound them thoroughly, then strain through a fine sieve, and arranging the crusts and pineapple slices alternately on the dish, forming them in a circle. Boil the syrup in which the pineapples have been cooked, till it is reduced to 32 degrees, when it may be mixed with the pounded pineapple, and the whole strained through a fine hair-sieve over the crusts and pineapple. Then serve. Apple Custard. Take some apple marmalade or stewed apples, and warm up with a little finely- powdered sugar, let this stand in a basin until cold. Beat up some eggs until very light and stir and beat them well into some new milk ; a little cream enriches the custard. Mix this up with the apples, pour into a deep dish, and bake for twenty minutes. Apple Custard with Vanilla. Strongly flavor with vanilla half a pound of marmalade (apple), and squeeze through a tammy cloth. Work up three ounces of warmed butter with a spoon in a basin until creamed, gradually putting into it the yolks of a dozen eggs and the white of one. When this is worked frothy, add two tablespoonfuls of finely-powdered loaf sugar and the apple marmalade. Stir well and throw in a couple of handfuls of rata- fia biscuits. Pour the whole into a buttered mould, and let it poach for some time in the bain-marie. Turn out onto a warmed dish, and mask with almond cream, thick- ened with apricot marmalade. Baked Apple Dumplings. These are made with a good short or tart crust. First pare the apples whole, and then cut out the core with a corer, filling up the cavity with sugar, butter and a little cinnamon or a clove. Cut some rounds of paste rather larger than the apples, and cover them leaving no openings. The dumplings should be baked in a pan, and the juice which will ooze out should be retained, as by adding butter and nutmeg it forms a capital sauce in which to serve them. Before the dumplings are quite done (they usually take about an hour in a quick oven), the tops should be moistened and a small quantity of sugar sprinkled over them to glaze. The dumplings are sometimes baked in a pan or dee]) baking-dish nearly full of a rich sauce, made of water, sugar and a good-sized lump of butter, together with a little cinnamon. They should be well covered with this syrup a little being poured over them before serving. HOT DESSERTS. 617 Boiled Apple Dumplings. Pare some large apples, cut them into quarters, and take out the cores. Take a piece of crust made from good puff paste, and roll it out to sufficient size to cover an apple, roll the crust around the apple and make into a ball. Dip a clean cloth into a pot of boiling water and shake flour over it. Tie each dumpling separately and drop it into the boiling water. If the crust is sufficiently light and the apples not too large, half an hour will be long enough to boil them ; but if very large, the apples will require nearly an hour. Serve with fresh butter and sugar, or the butter and sugar may be melted together, making a sauce, with a little essence of lemon added, to flavor. Currant Dumplings. Take half a pound of beef-suet and chop fine; put in a basin with four table- spoonfuls of flour, one pound of breadcrumbs, half a pound of sugar, and half a pound of cleaned currants. Mix all these well together, ami stir in three-quarters of a pint of milk. Dip the center of a pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring it out, dredge a little flour over, and spread the floured cloth over the top of a basin, pour the dump- ling into it, tie the cloth tightly with a piece of strong twine, and put the dumpling into a large saucepan of boiling water; add to the water half a tablespoonful of salt, and boil fast for three hours, being careful not to allow the boil to slacken; should the water waste much, replenish it from a kettle kept boiling for the purpose. When the dumpling is done, remove with care from the cloth, and turn onto a hot dish. Fruit Dumplings. Roll out sufficient suet-crust to make eight dumplings, cut it into rounds four inches in diameter, fill each one separately with different kinds of fruits, put on the top of each a little mixture made with a tablespoonful of sifted breadcrumbs mixed with an egg, sweetened with sugar ami flavored with grated lemon peel; roll up to form balls, tie each one separately in a cloth, ami boil for fortv-five minutes. When done, turn it out, pour over a wine sauce, ami serve. Lemon Dumplings. Mince one-half pound of beet-suet very fine, then mix with it one-half pound of grated breadcrumbs, one-fourth pound of sugar, and the grated peel of one lemon; stir all together well with two beaten eggs. Form the preparation into dumplings, and boil them, tied in cloths, for three-quarters of an hour. Baked IVach Dumplings. Mix one teaspoonful each of cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda with one quart of flour; add a little salt, sift them together, and make into a paste, with a little 618 HOT DESSERTS. milk and water. Sprinkle a little flour on the table, and roll the paste out several times, putting little pieces of lard on it to the amount of six ounces. Roll out thin the last time, and cut it into rounds with a biscuit-cutter. Put two or three pieces of canned peaches on each round, one teaspoonful of butter, and one tablespoonful of fine sugar. Draw the edges firmly together and place the dumplings on a large deep baking-dish, put them in a hot oven and bake quickly. When done, place them on a hot dish, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and serve. Pear Dumplings. Make a good pastry, and cut it in pieces large enough to enclose a medium- sized pear; peel some pears, leaving them whole, and keeping the stem intact, enclose them in pastrv, brush them over with beaten egg, and bake them in a moderate oven, Serve them, either hot or cold, with powdered sugar or sauce. Egg Cheese Cakes. Boil half a dozen eggs hard and lay them in cold water for a few minutes, and then peel them. Rub them, with six ounces of butter, through a fine wire-sieve, and mix in four ounces of well-washed and dried currants, two crumbled, stale sponge cakes, one teacupful of moist sugar, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, moisten- ing with the beaten yolks of two or three eggs and three-quarters of a wineglassful of brandy. Butter some small pattypans, line them with puff paste, trim, fill them with the mixture and bake in a quick oven. When cooked, t'jrn them out of the pans, and serve either hot or cold. Eggs, Duchess Style. Pour into a saucepan with half a pint of water, four ounces of powdered sugar, a little lemon peel and a small stick of cinnamon, adding half a teaspoonful of orange- flower water and mix together. Beat the yolks of twelve eggs with one pint of milk or cream; add this to the syrup with a very little salt; transfer the whole to a bak- ing-dish, place it on a hot stove, and cook the contents for ten minutes, stirring briskly. When it forms a cream, stir in the juice of a lemon, remove the dish from the fire, place it on another dish, and serve. Egg Snow with Coffee Cream. Whip the whites of five eggs to a firm froth and mix in five tablespoonfuls of caster sugar and one tablespoonful of coffee extract. Put in a stewpan one quart of milk, add three tablespoonfuls of sugar and boil; then add the beaten whites, one tablespoonful at a time, and stand the pan at the side of the fire. When the whites are done, take them out, drain and let cool. Put the yolks of six eggs, beaten up HOT DESSERTS. 619 with one teacupful of the sweetened milk in which the whites were cooked, into a stewpan, and stir over the fire until thick, but without boiling; strain, and when cool, mix in one tablespoonful more of the extract. Arrange the poached whites in a circle on a dish, pour the coffee-cream over, and serve. Eggs, Turkish Style. Blanch and pound four ounces of pistachio nuts in a mortar, adding occasionally a few drops of milk to keep them from oiling, and put them into a lined saucepan with one dessertspoonful of ground rice and the yolks of eight eggs, adding also half a pound of sugar and a piece of stick cinnamon; beat all until well mixed and pour in gradually one quart of cream and stir over the fire until thickened. Pour some syrup into a flat stewpan, and break carefully one dozen new-laid eggs into it, to poach. Take the cinnamon out of the mixture, pour it on a dish, place the poached eggs around it, garnish with macaroons soaked in brandy, and serve very hot. Apricot Flawn. Butter a flawn circle and place on a baking-sheet, then line with puff paste or trimmings, and trim off level to the rim. Mask the bottom with a thin layer of powdered sugar, and upon this sugar arrange halves of peeled or canned apricots until the flawn is full. Ornament the rim with a strip of paste which has been stamped, and sprinkle over with sugar, baking in a slack oven for thirty minutes. Cherry Flawn. Put three pounds of cherries into a preserving pan, with twelve ounces of sugar, and some water, and cook them until done. Strain the syrup into a saucepan, thicken it by reducing, put in about a quarter of the cherries, and reduce again until it falls in sheets from the spoon. Line with puff paste a flawn ring, put in the cherries that are not crystallized, -\iu\ bake for forty-five minutes in a quick oven, spreading a piece of buttered paper over the top. Take away the paper, dampen the crust, and dust with sugar; glaze this with a salamander, or in the oven, and pour over the crystal- lized cherries together with the syrup, and serve. Peach Flawn. Put eight not very ripe peaches in boiling water to loosen their skins, then drain and peel them; cut them into halves, remove the stones, and put them into a flat stew- pan. Mix some kirsch with syrup and pour it over the peaches. Peel and take out the stones of five or six small peaches, chop them and put them in a stewpan with a little more than one-half tumbler full of syrup; stir it over the fire till boiling, adding gradually a little potato flour. When thick pass it through a fine hair-sieve, add a 620 HOT DESSERTS. wineglassful of kirsch and a stick of vanilla, and keep it hot in the bain-marie. Butter a flawn-mould, line it with short paste, put a buttered paper round, and bake it in a slack oven; when done, take the buttered paper out, spread some apricot marmalade all round the inside of the paste, take it out of the mould and stand it on a dish. Warm the peaches gradually, but do not boil them. Drain, and pile them inside the crust, brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in peach marmalade, arrange some preserved fruits of various colors over them, mix together in equal quantities some kirsch and syrup, and pour it over them. Put the peach puree in a sauceboat, and serve it with the peaches. Pear Flawn. Prepare a good paste with eight ounces of flour and some butter, roll it out into a round about ten inches in diameter, then gather it up about two inches all round the edges, which crimp and decorate with a wreath of paste leaves. The edges of the flawn should be moistened with a little water to make them stick. Peel some fine pears, cut them in halves lengthwise and put them in a preserving-pan with some sugar, the juice of one or two lemons and the thinly-pared and shred rind of one lemon. Cook the pears slowly till tender, and leave them till cold. Bind a strip of buttered paper round the flawn, fill it with the pears and their syrup and bake for three-fourths of an hour. When cooked take the paper off the flawn, glaze it over with apricot marmalade, and serve it. Almond Custard Fritters. Beat up five eggs to each pound of flour and pour in by degrees some new milk, taking care to keep the mixture smooth. Stir this over a gentle stove for twenty minutes or so, until the custard is sufficiently thickened, when add a mixture of a quarter of a pound of sugar, one ounce of blanched and well-pounded almonds, six yolks of eggs, and a pinch or so of salt. This will then form a thick custard, which may be spread on a slightly buttered baking-sheet, and when cold it may be cut into pieces about two inches by cne and a quarter inches. Dip these pieces in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in very hot fat until slightly colored, then drain bv skimmer, dust with powdered sugar, and serve piled up on a folded napkin or dish-paper. Apple Fritters. Peel and core the apples and cut into slices about a third of an inch thick; dip in batter and fry for six minutes in boiling fat. Serve on a hot dish. The apples may be sprinkled with sugar and a little nutmeg and allowed to stand for an hour before frying; ill the latter case sprinkle with the sugar when they are served. HOT DESSERTS. 621 Apricot Fritters. Use a quarter of a pound of butter to each full pound of br'oche paste and set it for three hours to rise; then lay the paste on a slab, fold it over and roll out thick; fold again and place in a basin on ice. When quite firm roll it to an eighth of an inch thick and stamp out rounds with a cutter two inches in diameter; moisten the top edges of the rounds with a brush dipped in water and put a little apricot jam into the center of each; cover this with a second round of paste and press the two to- gether, taking care to have the edges stick closely. Prick with a skewer points on top one-sixth of an inch from the edge and fry the fritters in warm fat; drain and sprinkle fine sugar over them. Pile on a dish, and serve with ornamental sugar piping. Banana Fritters. Peel and cut into halves (if large) the bananas and soak in a mixture of rum and sugar. Then take out and dip them into a thin batter, plunge into a fryingpan of boiling lard, and frv to a light brown. Then take out. drain, drop into powdered sugar, and serve with sweet sauce or syrup poured over them. Fritters Bonne Femme. Put into a saucepan over the fire one ounce of butter to melt and mix in with it two ounces of sifted crushed loaf sugar, the grated rind of a lemon and a tumberful of water. When the Liquor boils, sift in sufficient potato flour to make a stiff paste, and stir well until the mixture adheres to the saucepan. Turn the preparation into a basin, let it cool, but not get cold, and add the yolks of six eggs, singly, beating each one in for about four minutes before another is added. When all the yolks are worked in, spread the mixture on a dish, keeping it about one inch in thickness, and let it get cold. Take it up in small lumps about the size of walnuts, drop them into a fryingpan of boiling lard, and shake the pan well until the fritters are swollen and of a golden color. Take them out, drain, put them on a napkin, dust over with fine sugar, and serve. Cream Fritters. Put one tcacupful of flour into a basin with an equal quantity of pounded maca- roons, a few dried orange flowers that have been browned in sugar, two ounces of finely-shredded candied lemon peel, and one or two small lumps of sugar. Peat the yolks of nine or ten eggs, mix them with one-half pint of milk and one-half pint of cream, and stir in gradually with the other ingredients, then add the beaten whites of three eggs. Turn the mixture into a saucepan, and stir it over the fire until it is thick and boiling. Pour it into a well-floured dish, dredge flour over it. and leave it until cold. Cut the paste into small pieces, roll them out round, place them in a fryingpan 622 HOT DESSERTS. with some hot butter, and fry until lightly browned. Drain the fritters, arrange them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, and sprinkle over caster sugar. Serve while hot. French Fritters. Mix to a paste one pound of sifted flour with one pint of milk. Put a pint of milk in a saucepan and as soon as it boils, mix it with the paste of flour and milk; stir it over the fire until it boils, let it cook ten minutes, stirring constantly, pour it then into a good-sized bowl and leave it to cool. Beat the yolks and whites of ten eggs sepa- rately until very light (the whites should be a stiff froth), and stir them into the bat- ter when it is cool, a tablespoonful at a time, stirring in also a tcaspoonful of salt. Take for each fritter nearly one tablespoonful of batter, drop them into boiling lard sufficient to cover and fry to a light brown. Lift them out with a skimmer, and serve hot with sweet sauce. Fruit Fritters. Put into a basin two ounces of butter to warm, and mix four ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of brandy, a pinch of salt, sufficient water to make a creamy paste and work in the whites of two eggs beaten to a very stiff froth. Cut into pieces or quar- ters any kind of fruit, dip them in the batter and fry them in butter to a light golden brown; take them out when done, drain off all the fat, place on a dish, sprinkle over powdered sugar, and serve. The fruit should be quite ripe; if not, it should be par- boiled in syrup. Lemon Fritters. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, together with one-fourth pound of powdered white sugar. Mix with them when beaten quite light one saltspoonful of both nutmeg and cinnamon and one-fourth pint of cream; whip in lightly the whites of five eggs whisked to a froth, and then add about three-fourths of a pound of flour, working it in as quickly and as lightly as possible; when it should form a paste only just light enough to roll out. Take the rolling pin and roll out the paste to a thickm three-fourths of an inch. With a tumbler or a cake-cutter, cut it into round pieces and fry in boiling lard. Lay them on a warm paper to drain. Serve hot with a sauce made of the whites of two eggs beaten as stiff as possible, together with one glass of wine, the grated peel of one lemon, one-half pound of powdered sugar and the strained juice of two lemons. Orange Fritters. Peel the oranges, cut them in halves, pick out the seeds, and, with a sharp knife, scrape off all the white pith; put them in a basin together with some fine sugar and three tablespoonfuls of brand)', and leave them for an hour or two, afterwards drain- HOT DESSERTS. 623 ing them on a sieve. Warm and beat two ounces of butter, beat also the yolks of two eggs, mix them together with the butter in three-fourths of a pound of flour, and stir in gradually with a wooden spoon sufficient tepid water to make the whole into a smooth batter. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow, and mix them lightly with the batter at the last moment. Put a large piece of lard or clarified fat into a flat stewpan, and place it over the fire until boiling; dip the pieces of orange into the batter, coating them well, and fry in the boiling fat until nicely browned. Then take them out, and put them on a sheet of kitchen-paper to drain. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, place the fritters upon it, sprinkle sugar over them, and serve. Orange Custard Fritters. Put one pound of flour into a basin and stir it gradually, keeping it quite smooth, one quart of milk and five well-beaten eggs. Turn the batter into a saucepan, and stir it over a moderate fire for twenty minutes without letting it boil; then move it to the side of the fire, and mix in four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one of finelv- chopped orange peel, one-half saltspoonful of salt, and the well-beaten volks of five eggs. Butter a baking-sheet, and, when the custard is well mixed, spread it over about one inch in thickness. When cold, cut it into equal-sized pieces, dip them in beaten egg and then in finely-grated breadcrumbs, and fry them in butter till a golden brown. Drain the fritters, dust some sugar over, put them on a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, and serve. Peach Fritters. Skin some ripe but firm peaches, cut them in halves, and take out the stones. Put the peaches in a bowl witli sugar, and toss them about well, taking care not to break them. Put one pound of finely-sifted flour into a basin, and stir in one-half pint of water gradually with a wooden spoon. Peat the whites of three eggs till very stiff, mix them with the batter, and add one and one-fourth ounces of wanned butter. Put a lump of lard in a frvingpan, make it warm, but not too hot; dip each piece of peach separately in the batter, then fry them in the lard. When lightly browned, dram the peaches on a cloth, lav them on a baking-dish, the cut side downwards, sift some powdered sugar over, and glaze them under the salamander. Arrange the peaches in a pyramid on a folded napkin, placed on a hot dish, and serve. Pear Fritters. Take as many good cooking-pears as are required for the dish, cut them into slices lengthwise, cover with sugar, dip them in batter, plunge them into boiling oil, and fry a delicate brown. Take them out, drain, dust over again with sugar, place them on a napkin over a dish, and serve with sweet or wine sauce. 6i 4 HOT DESSERTS. Pineapple Fritters. Pare and grate a ripe pineapple, saving all of the juice; with this mix two cupfuls of flour, the yolk of one egg, a little salt and a tablespoonful of melted butter, with enough water to make a batter thick enough to hold a drop from the end of the spoon for a moment or two. Have ready before the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat, and when it commences to smoke, quickly stir the white of a beaten egg into the batter, and then drop the batter by the tablespoonful into the hot fat; fry the fritters until they become of a golden brown color. Remove them from the fat with a skimmer, and lay them for a moment to brown on a piece of paper free from fat. They may then be arranged neatly on a fancy dish, and dusted over with powdered sugar and served. Portuguese Fritters. Cut six slices of bread half an inch thick, remove the crust and shape the crumb into rounds the size of the top of a tumbler, with which they can be marked out. Lav them in a dish with half a pint of milk, not allowing the milk to cover them; let them soak for half an hour, then lift them and drain for ten minutes on the side of the dish. Dip the slices of bread into well-beaten egg and fry them in butter to a rich brown. Drain, and serve with crushed loaf sugar. A little lemon juice may be squeezed over. Rhubarb Fritters. Cut some sticks of young rhubarb into pieces about an inch long, and boil them in water for ten minutes; then drain and place them in cold water. When quite cold, drain the pieces of rhubarb, lay them on a dish, strew finely-crushed sugar over, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and let them marinade for a couple of hours. Dip the pieces of rhubarb in some frying-batter, put them in boiling lard, and fry to a nice color. Drain on paper for a minute or two to absorb the fat, place them neatly on a dish that has been spread over with a folded -napkin or a fancy paper, and serve. Rice Fritters. Put barely one cupful of rice in sufficient warm water to cover it well, and let it steep for three hours; then put it, with the water in which it was steeped, in a farina kettle and let it simmer until the rice is dry, then pour one pint of milk over it, and let it simmer again until the milk has all soaked into the rice; then stir in one ounce of butter, take it from the fire and let it cool. Beat up three eggs and three ounces of sugar together very lightly, and when the rice has cooled pretty well stir them in with grated nutmeg, salt to the taste, add one tablespoonful of flour. . Cover a paste- board well with flour and make up the mixture with well-floured hands into flat cakes; place in the middle of each cake two or three raisins that have been HOT DESSERTS. 625 "plumped " by soaking in boiling water for two or three minutes, roll the edges of the cake over the raisins so as to form a ball, flour the balls well, and fry them in boiling lard. Sprinkle them with powdered cinnamon and sugar, and serve on a napkin folded on a hot dish with sweetened cream. Souffles Fritters. Pour one breakfast cupful of water into a saucepan, boil it up, and add two ounces of butter; when it is dissolved, put in four ounces of flour in one lump, and not sprinkled, and work the paste with a spoon until it is smooth and cooked. Remove the pan from the fire, add six eggs, beating one well in before adding another, and working the paste well against the sides of the saucepan. Have ready a deep frvingpan with a good supply of boiling fat in it, and drop in the mixture in lumps about the size of an egg. As soon as they swell and become hollow and light, remove, drain and place them on a dish with a napkin spread over it, and serve. Only a few of them should be cooked at a time, as they require much room in which to swell. Strawberry Fritters. Mix one tablcspoonful of salad oil with the grated peel of half a lemon and a little flour; when smooth add the whites of three well-whisked eggs and a little white wine. The mixture should be- of the consistency of thick cream. Pick the tops off some large, ripe strawberries, and put the fruit in the prepared batter. Put a lump of butter into a deep frvingpan, and when it is boiling drop the batter, with the straw- berries, from a tablespoon into the fat. When nicely cooked remove the fritters carefully, drain them on a sieve or a colander, then arrange on a hot dish; sift some powdered sugar over, and serve. Vanilla Fritters. Pour into a saucepan one-half pint of water, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and four ounces of butter, and boil all together for a few minutes. Drop in five ounces of flour all at once, ami stir the mixture over the fire until the paste is firm and smooth. Remove it from the fire, work in three eggs, one at a time, using a spoon, and beat the paste well against the side of the saucepan, Add one teaspoonful of vanilla ex- tract with the last egg. The more the paste is beaten the more the puffs will expand in the frvingpan. Then half-fill the saucepan with hot lard. Drop in pieces of the batter about the size of eggs, and watch them swell and expand in the hot lard and become hollow and light. Only four or five can be fried at a time, because they require considerable room. The fritters, being slightly sweet, will be apt to fry too dark if the lard be made too hot, and they may remain in it as long as five minutes before they begin to swell and run over. When (.lone remove them, and serve hot. 626 HOT DESSERTS. Lemon Patties. Put the grated crumbs of one stale loaf of bread in a basin, and pour over one- half pint of boiling milk. When cold mix in with the grated peel of two lemons, three well-beaten eggs, one-fourth pound of butter beaten to a cream, and sweeten to taste with powdered sugar. Butter some small cups, fill them with the mixture, and bake for twenty minutes or so in a moderate oven. Turn the patties on a hot dish, pour some wine-sauce over, and serve. Apricot Omelet. Put the yolks of six eggs and the whites of four into a basin ; sprinkle over them a small quantity of salt, and beat well. Pour into an omelet pan with a lump of but- ter, and as soon as it is set, turn it carefully out. Spread over as much apricot jam or marmalade as required, fold the omelet up, and place on a dish, sprinkle over powdered sugar, glaze in an oven with a salamander, and serve very hot. Celestine Omelet. Pound six macaroons, put them in a bowl, adding three tablespoonfuls of apple jelly and one tablcspoonful of whipped cream, and mix it well with a spatula. Make a sweet omelet with twelve eggs, fold over the side opposite the pan, pour the mix- ture into the center, fold the other side over and turn the omelet out onto a hot dish. Sprinkle the top with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, glaze the omelet, and decorate it with some ladyfingers cut into halves, also a teacupful of whipped cream. Jelly Omelet. Put one teaspoonful of butter into a fryingpan and place it over the fire. Beat the yolks of three eggs together with one teaspoonful of sugar and whisk the whites also to a stiff froth. When the butter is melted, mix the whites and yolks gently to- gether, and put them into the pan; as fast as the omelet cooks, lift the cooked part with a fork and throw it on one side of the pan, letting the uncooked part down upon the hot pan. When the omelet is cooked to the desired degree, place one table- spoonful of jelly in the middle, fold the omelet together and turn it out on a hot dish; sprinkle over powdered sugar, and serve. Kirsch Omelets. Make ;i sweet omelet with a dozen eggs; when it is done and glazed throw round ;i wineglassful of kirsch, and set the omelet on fire. Serve it while burning. HOT DESSERTS. 627 Lemon Omelets. Mix one dessertspoonful of corn starch with one teaspoonful of flour and one- half teacupful of milk or cream; when quite smooth, stir in the yolks of four well- beaten eggs and one-half pint of boiling milk. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth and mix them with the above preparation. Butter four pudding plates, pour the mixture on them, dividing it equally and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes or until well set. When cooked, turn the omelets onto a hot dish, spread about one teaspoonful of lemon-honey over half of each, fold them over, sprinkle a little powdered sugar on the top, and serve while hot. Rum Omelet. Put half a dozen eggs and a small quantity of milk into a basin, add one tea- spoonful of finely-powdered loaf sugar and beat well, but do not make the omelet too light. Turn the mixture into a fryingpan with a small lump of butter and fry until done, rolling the omelet into shape as quickly as it begins to get stiff. Turn it out onto a dish, dredge over a little sugar, pour round one teacupful of rum, ignite it, and serve at once. Omelet Souffle. An omelet souffle is one of the most delicious of hot sweets. It is not difficult to make when its principles are understood, and vet it is seldom well made by inex- perienced cooks. The true omelet souffle contains only eggs, sugar and the chosen flavoring, and a tin-lined copper souffle-pan or a thick enameled metal dish, which will quickly heat and remain hot for some time after being taken from the oven, is required for cooking it. Spread the pan with cold butter and see that the oven is quite hot before the omelet is made. Put the yolks of three eggs, six heaped table- spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar and one teaspoonful of any flavoring essence or cordial into a quart bowl and beat them to a stiff cream; then beat the whites of the to a stiff froth and quickly and lightly add the yolks and sugar. This part of the operation requires a quick, deft hand. The yolks should be poured on the center of the whites, then cut down through, rather beaten or stirred, by holding the spoon in the right hand with the bowl outward and cutting down into the whites with its edge an inward and upward turn will bring the spoon out again with its ud^c on top of the whites. Repeat this cutting-down and turning motion rapidly and lightly until the omelet is mixed, then as rapidly and lightly put the omelet into the pan in which it is to be baked, dust it over with powdered sugar, place it in the oven and bake until it is delicately browned (it will take about ten minutes if the oven is moderately hot). Do not begin to make the souffle until about twenty minutes before it is needed. It must not be allowed to stand after it is done, but must be sent to the 628 HOT DESSERTS. table as soon as taken from the oven, slipping the souffle-pan on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin. Orange Meringue. Thoroughly wash and pick over one-half pound of the best rice, put it into a saucepan with plenty of water and place it over the fire. When the water boils drain it off the rice and pour in its place a quart of milk, add four ounces of crushed loaf sugar and the thinly-pared rind of one lemon and stew the rice slowly over a mod- erate fire until almost dry. Peel the rind off six oranges and put it into a saucepan with some thick syrup made with loaf sugar and a small quantity of water, cover and steep for twenty minutes over a slow fire. Trim off all the white pith of the oranges and remove their seeds by coring them like apples. When the rice has cooled, mix with it the beaten yolks of three eggs, put a layer of the rice on a flat dish, pile the remainder up to form a wall, place the oranges in the center and strain the syrup over. Whisk the whites of three eggs to a stiff snow with two tablespoonfuls of pow- dered sugar and spread it over the oranges, dust a small quantity of sugar over the whole and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve on the same dish. Orange Puffs. Grate the rind of three oranges and strain their juice, put the rinds into a mortar with one pound of sugar and about three ounces of butter and pound them into a smooth paste, then mix in the strained juice. Roll the paste out on a marble slab and cut into rounds with a tin cutter. Lay them a short distance from each other on baking sheets over which has been spread a sheet of white paper and bake in a rather slow oven. When done pile the puffs on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, dust them over, with sugar, and serve. Pancakes. Mix two tcaspoonfuls of flour with a little salt. Beat the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, add a few drops of orange-flower water, and then stir tin's in with the flour. Butter a small omelet pan, and when hot, pour in a small quantity of the batter, bake until brown, then turn and brown the other side. Roll up the pancake, put it on a hot dish, and keep near the fire till all are made. Arrange them on an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, sprinkle a little sugar over, and serve. Apple Pancakes. Take ordinary pancake batter in which a little yeast has been mixed, and allow it to rise. Break four eggs into a large bowl, beat well and add a teaspoonful of yeasl and salt and a wine-glassful of brandy, with a little powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. In a smaller basin, mix some flour and milk in a way as to form the con- HOT DESSERTS. . 629 sistency ot batter, and when it is worked smooth, stir into the large bowl with the other ingredients, Cover with a cloth and set in a warm place to work. Prepare a few apples bv peeling, coring and mincing. With each quantity taken for a pancake, stir in a little of the minced apple. If too much of the apple is added the pancakes are liable to break, unless made extra thick. They should be sent hot to the table, accompanied by pounded sugar and oranges or lemons, cut in halves for squeezing over them. Pancakes, Casino Style. Rub fifteen lumps of sugar on two whole orange peels; also rub five pieces of sugar on two vanilla sticks; take one wineglass of curacoa and a pony of brandy, together with half a pound of fresh butter and mix the whole together until the sugar is dissolved, and the mass forms a paste. After having your pancakes prepared as shown for plain pancake, take a chafing-dish and use for each pancake one table- spoonful of the above preparation. Place the preparation in the chafing-dish and when it is hot, put one pancake into it, and leave it there for about a minute, and turn your pancake over for the same operation as before; keep on doing the same thing for every pancake. It is proper to do this at the table as soon as the pancake is done, and serve it to your guest. Currant Pancakes. Stir in one-fourth pound of washed and dried grocers currants to every pint of any plain pancake batter. Serve with hot butter, lemons and sugar. Gooseberry Pancakes. Put a lump of butter into a fryingpan; when it is melted, put in one quart of gooseberries previously snipped, and fry gently until tender; then take them out and mash them in a saucepan. Beat the yolks of six eggs, and whip three whites to a stilt troth; mix them with a teacupful of cream and finely-grated stale breadcrumbs, and a breakfast cupful of flour, pour them in the saucepan with the gooseberries, add sugar to taste, and stir over the fire until thick. Melt some butter in a frvingpan, and fry the preparation like pancakes. Put them on a hot dish, sift powdered sugar over, and serve. New England Pancakes Stir slowly into one pint of cream five tablespoonfuls of sifted flour. Beat up the yolks of seven new-laid eggs and the whites of four, season these with one tea- spoonful of salt, and stir them into the flour, working all together thoroughly. Heat very hot in a fryingpan one tablcspoonful of fresh butter; pour in a thin layer of the batter, and turn when set. Serve these piled one on another, witli sugar and powdered cinnamon over each. 630 HOT DESSERTS. Rice Pancakes. Wash one-half pound of rice, put it into a saucepan with some water, and boil it to a jelly, adding more water when required. When cooked, leave it until cold; then mix with it one pint of cream, eight or nine eggs, a pinch of salt, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Warm one-half pound of butter, then stir it in with the other ingredients, adding as much flour as will make a thick batter. Fry the pancakes as usual, using as little butter as possible. Serve them either plain, or with jam or preserves. Pancakes with Apricot Jam. Put one-half pound of flour into a basin with a tablespoonful of fine sugar and a little salt, break in five eggs, and mix all well together. Add one-fourth pound of melted butter, and one and one-fourth pints of milk. Cut a piece of bread round one-fourth inch thick and four and one-half inches in diameter, sift sugar over, and glaze in the oven. Three fryingpans should be used when a large number of cakes are made, so that they may be done more quickly. Stand the pans on the fire with a small piece of butter in each, and, when it is melted, put two tablespoonfuls of batter in each. When one side of the pancake is browned, turn it on the glazed piece of bread, coat the top with apricot jam, put another one over this, and so on, till all are done. Do not coat the top one with jam, but sprinkle with powdered sugar, glaze it under a salamander, and serve. Pancakes with Macaroons. Put two ounces of bitter macaroons and one ounce of dried orange flowers into a mortar, and pound them very fine. Turn this into a large bowl, add one-fourth pound of finely-powdered white sugar and two ounces of dried and sifted flour, and mix all well together; then stir into them the beaten yolks of ten eggs; add a salt- spoonful of salt, and one quart of cream. Make a fryingpan hot over the fire, put a lump of butter into it, and when that is quite hot fry as much of the batter as will cover the bottom of the pan; when slightly browned on one side, turn it carefully and brown the other side. Lav it on a hot tin plate, spread over a thin layer of apricot marmalade, and on that sprinkle crushed macaroons. Roll the pancake up rather tight and proceed with the next one, which should, with some more butter, have been put in the fryingpan as soon as the first one was taken out. When all the pancakes arc done, cut them about three inches long, glaze them, and serve hot; or they may be served quite plain. Baked Pears. Peel, cut in halves, and core twelve large pears, put them into a pan with two dozen cloves, one pound of sugar, and nearly enough water to cover them. Pake HOT DESSERTS. 631 them in a moderate oven till tender, keeping the pan covered; then place them over a slow fire and let them stew gently. Grate a little lemon peel over them and add more sugar if required. Adelaide Pudding. Put the whites of three and the yolks of six eggs into a bowl and beat thoroughly; then place a pint of water and nine ounces of sugar in a saucepan and boil; when the scum rises, pour it over the eggs, and add the grated rind and the juice of a lemon, and whip the whole well together for about twenty minutes. Dredge in slowly about eight ounces of flour, and when thoroughly mixed, pour it into a well-buttered tin or mould, set it in a slack oven, and bake it for twenty minutes, then turn it out onto a dish, pour around a little wine sauce, and serve. Albemarle Pudding. Partially warm four ounces of butter, and beat it until it becomes frothy, then mix in four ounces of sugar, and the grated rind of one lemon. Whip separately the whites and the yolks of three eggs, and mix all together, sifting in, a little at a time, three-quarters of a pound of flour, and continue beating the whole until it is quite smooth. Butter a pudding-basin and ornament it with raisins, cover the top with a sheet of buttered paper, and stand it in a saucepan, with boiling water to about three parts its height, and steam for an hour anil a half; when thoroughly cooked, turn the pudding out of the mould onto a dish, and serve. Almond Pudding. Put some butter in a dish to warm. Then beat the yolks of a number of eggs with the whites in a basin, and add gradually a little sifted crushed loaf-sugar, then the butter and half a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, together with some sifted breadcrumbs. Turn the mixture into a well-buttered saucepan or mould, in layers alternately with apricot jam ; tie the mould over with a wet cloth, and boil the pudding in a saucepan of water for an hour and a half. Turn it out onto a dish, pour sweet sauce around, and serve. Almond and Rice Pudding. Put some milk and a little ground rice into a saucepan to boil; then pour into a basin, and when it is quite cold, mix in some sugar and wanned butter, six yolks and nine whites of eggs, and a few blanched and shred sweet almonds. Put into a but- tered dish, and bake until well done. Turn it out onto a dish, cover it with pieces of almond stuck into it, and s< - 632 HOT DESSERTS. Apple and Almond Pudding. Peel and core some cooking apples, put them in a saucepan with a little water, and cook to a pulp. Put this at the bottom of a buttered basin or mould, and let it cool. Put five ounces of blanched almonds into a mortar with an equal weight of crushed loaf-sugar, pounding well and mixing in the yolks of seven eggs, the strained juice and grated rind of a lemon and a little flour to thicken it. When these are well mixed, add the whites of the seven eggs beaten to a froth, turn the whole into the basin or mould over the apples, place in a moderate oven and bake for about half an hour, when the pudding should be of a light brown. Take out when done and turn it onto a dish, serving with sweet sauce. Apple Custard Pudding. Stew some good large cooking-apples (pared, cored and minced) in a little water ; when done, rub through a coarse sieve and sweeten. Make a good custard of milk, eggs and powdered sugar, with a little lemon flavoring. Pour the apples into a pudding-dish and the custard mixture on top of the apples, and. put in a slow oven to bake about half an hour until done. Api ricot Pudding. Take the desired quantity of apricots, divide them and remove the stones. Place the halves in a stewpan over a stove with a little sugar. Pour over a little water and shake well, and when about half-cooked, pour them into a pudding-basin which has been previously buttered and lined with a good suet paste. Cover the top with some of the paste, tie over with a pudding-cloth, plunge into boiling water, and boil for two hours. Remove from the saucepan, untie the cloth, turn out on a dish, and serve. Bird's-Nest Pudding. Peel and core eight apples, but do not break them. Arrange them in a good- sized pudding-dish, and fill the places where the cores were with sugar. Then, with one and one-half pints of milk, three ounces of flour, and four or five eggs, make a batter; pour this over the apples, and bake until the fruit is done. For the sauce, beat one-fourth pound of butter until very light, add one-half pound of powdered white sugar, and one-fourth of a pint of cream. Stand the bowl containing the mix- ture in a basin of hot water, and stir until all is creamy. Two minutes should be sufficient. Serve in a sauceboat. Biscuit Pudding. Place five or six large broken biscuits in a saucepan with a breakfast cupful of milk, the grated rind of half a lemon, and boil well. Working this mixture into a HOT DESSERTS. 633 smooth paste, add three ounces of warmed butter, two ounces of finely-crushed loaf-sugar and a tablespoonful of brandy, together with four well-beaten eggs; pour this mixture into a buttered dish or basin, tie over with a cloth, and place in a sauce- pan of water, and boil it for twenty minutes. When done, turn out onto a dish, pour over a little wine sauce, and serve. Bombay Pudding. Beat three whole eggs with one pint of milk, sweeten to taste with loaf-sugar, pour them into a lined saucepan, and stir over a slow fire until thickened, but not boiling. Move the saucepan to the edge of the fire, and stir in one wineglassful of brandy, a small piece of butter, and a little grated nutmeg, then grate some cocoanut and add it to the mixture. Butter a shallow dish, line it with a good puff-paste, and spread the cocoanut mixture over it. Place the pudding in a brisk oven, and bake until lightly brown. Serve the pudding either hot or cold. Boston Pudding. Peel and remove the cores from two pounds of cooking-apples and cut them into small pieces; put them in a stewpan with a small piece of stick cinnamon, two or three cloves, and the thinly-pared rind of a large lemon; moisten with a small quantity of water, and stew gently until reduced to a pulp. When cooked sweeten the apples to taste with moist sugar, and rub them through a fine sieve. Beat the yolks of three eggs, and the whites of one with three ounces of warmed butter, a small cpjantity of grated nutmeg and grated leinor.-pcci and strained juice of half a lemon; beat the mixture thoroughly. Butter and line the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the mixture and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked, serve either hot or cold. Brandy Pudding with Brandy Sauce. Dissolve six ounces of crushed loaf-sugar in one-half pint of boiling milk; when cool, beat it with half a dozen eggs. Place at the bottom of a well-buttered dish a thick layer of stoned and chopped raisins and some chopped candied orange-peel; over these place some thin slices of stale bread that have been saturated in brandy, and then pour in the beaten eggs and milk. Cover the mouth of the basin with a piece of buttered paper, tie it down tightly, and let the basin stand for a few minutes; then place it in a saucepan partly filled with water, and steam for nearly two hours. Make a sweet sauce, and flavor it with brandy and vanilla. Turn the pudding out onto a dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Baked Bread Pudding. Place in a sauce a half pint of sweet cream, a little powdered sugar and lemon peel, place on stove and stir with a spatula for three minutes or so, then remove from 634 HOT DESSERTS. the fire. Pare off the crust from some stale bread, and cut it into some small dice-shaped pieces, mixing them lightly into the above mixture, and place on the lid of the pan. Let the bread soak for ten minutes. Chop up very fine an ounce or so of candied citron, mixing with it four ounces of dried currants, some melted butter, and melted and strained beef-marrow, stirring in a little salt. Pour this prepara- tion in with the soaked bread and mix it together gently for about ten minutes, breaking into it three eggs, one at a time, and add a gill of Madeira wine and half a gill of cognac. Butter and sprinkle with breadcrumbs a pudding-mould, and pour into it this preparation, lay on a baking-plate, and put in a slow oven to bake for an hour and a half. Remove and turn it onto a hot dish, serve with Sabayon sauce with Madeira. Bread Pudding with Cream Sauce. Pare off the crust of half a loaf of stale wheaten bread and cut it into slices a third of an inch thick, butter thoroughly with melted butter and line the dish with them. Put in a basin six ounces of currants, two eggs and a pint of cold milk, some pow- dered sugar, the grated rind of a lemon and its juice. Mix with a spatula for ten minutes and pour into a dish, which place in a moderate oven to cook for half an hour; then remove into another dish, and serve very hot. Cabinet Pudding. Butter thickly the inside of a mould and arrange a neat design at the bottom with fancv-shaped pieces of citron peel and raisins; over these place a layer of sponge cake cut into strips of any length and about one-half inch thick; over the layer of the cake put some citron, some candied fruit cut into small square pieces and some rai- sins; then add another layer of cake, some more fruit, and so on until the mould is full. Put the yolks of three eggs into a basin with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and beat them well. Pour one pint of milk into a saucepan and place it on the fire till just on the point of boiling, then stir it in gradually to the beaten egg. Pour the custard over the mixture in the mould. Place the mould in a pan with cold water to about one-third its height, stand it over the fire until boiling and then put the pan and mould in a moderate oven and bake. In about an hour's time the pudding will be cooked. Turn it out of the mould onto a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of sweet sauce. Baked California Pudding. Beat well three eggs with three-quarters of a pint of milk, sweeten to taste with sugar and flavor with a few drops of essence of almonds, add three-quarters of a wine- glassful of pale brandy; stir the preparation over the tire until it has become thick- em <1, then move it off; put some small pieces of stale sponge-cake into a pie dish with an ounce and a half of thinly-shredded citron peel, pour the custard over it anil HOT DESSERTS. 635 leave it for half an hour. Then slightly warm six ounces of butter and beat it with an equal amount of fine sugar until frothy. Spread this mixture over the pudding and bake for an hour, and serve either hot or cold. Caramel Pudding. Cream together two breakfast cupfuls of warmed butter and sugar. Add ten eggs (yolks and whites beaten separately), and two breakfast cupfuls of preserved damsons, removing the stones. Beat all together very lightly and season with two teaspoonfuls of flavoring extract, vanilla or other flavoring. Prepare an open tart-case of pattern paste, fill with the ice-caramel preparation, and bake in a quick oven. Baked Cheese Pudding. Beat thoroughly four or five eggs and mix with them one ounce of butter melted to the substance of oil and one gill of cream, then stir in two tablespoonfuls of silted breadcrumbs and one pound of grated cheese. Pour this mixture into a dish lined with puff paste, and bake. Cherry Pudding. Place one-half pound of warm butter in a basin and work it thoroughlv with a spoon, adding the yolks of twelve eggs, one at a time, and then one-half pound of powdered sugar. When it begins to froth, put in a quarter of a pound of bread- crumbs, a small quantity of cinnamon and finally the whites of eight eggs well- whisked. Then take a large and fairly thick timbale-mould, butter it well, and on the bottom, pour a layer of the mixture. Then put in a layer of preserved and well- drained cherries, not allowing them to lie against the sides of the mould ami continue, in this way until full. Cover the mould with a baking-sheet upon which are live em- bers, place in the oven and bake for twenty-five minutes. Then turn it out onto a dish, cover the bottom of the pudding with cherry sauce, and serve. Chestnut Pudding. Boil and peel about fifty or sixty fine chestnuts, and when well-cooked, pound or crush them fine; add the minced rind of half a lemon, one-fourth of a pound of powdered sugar, a dessertspoonful of orange flower or rose water, a breakfast cupful each of breadcrumbs and sweet biscuit in crumbs, and a teacupful of rich cream; then mix in with half a do,. 11-beatcn up, volks and whites together. Put the whole into a buttered mould, sprinkle it with sugar and set it for a moment under a glowing salamander. Christmas Pudding. Separate the yolks of six eggs from the whites. Take two breakfast cupfuls of rich mincemeat, put into it the yolks of six eggs and beat them well with it for four or five 636 HOT DESSERTS. minutes; whip the whites to a froth, and have ready six ounces of flour. Add to the pudding first a little flour and then a little beaten white of egg, and so on alternately until both flour and eggs are used up, beating each addition well in. Butter the in- side of a good-sized mould and put the pudding into it, giving it room to swell; cover firmly, plunge it into boiling water, and keep boiling rapidly for five hours. Clifton Pudding. Put four ounces of ground rice into a saucepan with two breakfast cupfuls of cream, and boil gently until the mixture begins to thicken, stirring occasionally. Place the yolks of six eggs in a bowl, whisk them well with the whites of two eggs, and add gradually four ounces of finely-crushed loaf sugar, two tablespoonfuls of brandy, three ounces of blanched and pounded sweet almonds, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Remove the ground rice mixture from the fire, and when it is cool, stir in the other mixture; pour the whole into a well-buttered pie-dish, place a few slices of candied peel on the top, stand the pudding in a moderate oven, and bake for nearly or quite twenty-five minutes; then take it out and serve it cither hot or cold. Cottage Pudding. Put two and one-half breakfast cupfuls of mixed butter and lard into a basin, and warm and beat to a cream with one breakfast cupful of sifted, crushed loaf-sugar. Stir in one well-beaten egg and one teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda dissolved in one breakfast cupful of milk, and add to it a little grated nutmeg. Put one pint of flour into a basin, and work into it two tablespoonfuls of cream of tartar; add to it the other mixture, stir well, place the whole in a buttered basin or mould, and bake in a brisk oven for forty-five minutes. Then turn the pudding out onto a dish, pour round or over a little sweet or wine sauce, and serve. Cream Pudding. Mix three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar with the rind of a grated lemon and six eggs, beaten to a froth. Take one pint of milk, half a pound of flour, and one teaspoonful of salt, and mix them together. When thoroughly mixed add the sugar and eggs; just before serving add one pint of thick cream. Pour this into small cups or pudding dishes, and bake until done. Cocoa Pudding. Put half a pound of stale bread and one pint of milk in a saucepan, stirring it while it boils, until it becomes a thick paste; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, one ounce of butter, one tablcspoonful of prepared cocoa, and a few drops of essence of vanilla. Remove the pudding from the fire, beat the yolks of three eggs, whip the HOT DESSERTS. 637 whites of the eggs to a froth, then mix all into the other ingredients. Put it in a buttered pie-dish and bake for three-quarters of an hour. Cornstarch Pudding. Pour two quarts of milk into a saucepan, adding six ounces of sugar, boil, and stir in seven or eight ounces of cornstarch, adding only a small quantity at a time. Cook gradually over the fire for about half an hour, then put in four ounces of butter and the whole of five eggs, or the yolks of eight. Turn the mixture into a dish or mould, and bake in a moderate oven until done. Turn it out, pour sweet sauce of some kind over, and serve. Custard Pudding. Put into a thin pudding-mould one tablespoonful of caster-sugar, and move it about on the stove until it begins to brown. When the mould is completely lined with the sugar, pour in one pint of milk boiled with the peel of half a lemon, and four beaten in with it, and sweeten to taste. Put the mould in a saucepan with hot water to half its height, let the water simmer gently for half an hour, turn the pud- ding into a mould, and serve hot. Custard Cup Pudding. Beat up one eg| paper. Stand the mould in a saucepan of boiling water, and steam the pudding for a little less than an hour. In the meantime prepare the following sauce for the pudding: Pour one breakfast cupful of either canned or fresh pineapple juice into a small lined saucepan with the juice of one lemon. Tut the pan over the fire until the contents are boiling, then pour it gradually over one tablespoonful of arrowroot, stirring it at the same time; return the sauce to the saucepan, and stir it over the fire until thickened. When cooked turn the pudding out of the mould onto a hot dish, strain the juice over it, and serve. Care must be taken that the water does not enter into the top of the mould, while the pudding is cooking, or it will be spoiled. 646 HOT DESSERTS. Vanilla Souffle Pudding. Mix five tablespoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste with one-half pint of cold milk, then stir in one-half pint of boiling milk; pour it into a saucepan, and stir over the fire for five minutes. Beat the yolks of five eggs with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, then mix them in with the milk and flour, and flavor the mixture with a small quantity of essence of vanilla. Beat the whites of five eggs well, and stir them into the above mixture when it is cold. Coat the inside of a mould with butter, ornament it with halves of dried cherries, and pour in the souffle; place a sheet of buttered paper on top, and tie a cloth over. Boil the souffle for an hour and a half, then remove the mould from the water, and in three or four minutes' time turn the souffle onto a hot dish, and serve at once. Italian Rice Balls. Take some cooked rice, not too moist, and nicely flavored and sweetened, roll it flat, cut it into pieces of convenient shape, and roll them up like a sausage putting a little preserve in the center of each. Brush them over with egg, cover them with sifted breadcrumbs, and fry them. Boiled Rice. Wash thoroughly about twelve ounces of rice, using several waters, tie it up in a cloth, allowing plenty of room for it to swell. Put it into a saucepan of cold water and boil for about two hours. Turn it out onto a dish, and serve with some jam or sweet sauce. Rice Cake. Blanch one pound of sweet and one-half ounce of bitter almonds, place them in a mortar with a small quantity of water and pound them to a pulp; then add two quarts of water and strain them through a cloth into a saucepan. Add twelve ounces of well-washed rice blanched in boiling water for a few minutes, also one-half pound of crushed loaf-sugar and a very little salt. Bring the liquor to the boil and stir gently and frequently until the rice is so well cooked that it will easilv break when pressed between the fingers. Pound it all well again in a mortar, pass it through a fine sieve and stir in the yolks of half a dozen eggs to bind it and form a paste which should be quite firm. Put it into a well-buttered mould and bake it in a moderate oven until done. Rice Cheese Cakes. Boil four ounces of rice in one-half gallon of water, dry it well, put it into another saucepan and add eight ounces of butter, one breakfast cupful of cream, one table- spoonful of orange-flower water, a small quantity of finely-chopped lemon peel and HOT DESSERTS. 647 one-half pound of powdered sugar. Form the whole into a paste by adding half a dozen well-beaten eggs and stir over the fire until the mixture is thick; then move the pan from the fire and allow the mixture to cool. Have in readiness some patty- pans lined with puff-paste, place the rice mixture in them to about three-fourths their height, put them into a slack oven and bake for from fifteen to twenty minutes. When done remove, turn them out of the pans, and serve either hot or cold. Rice Conde. Boil together one pint each of milk and water; when boiling drop in one teacup- ful of well-washed rice and boil for twenty-five minutes, stirring it all the time. When cooked stir in one saltspoonful of salt, four ounces of sugar and a few drops of orange- flower water. Mix all well together for one minute, break in three whole eggs and stir again for two minutes. Arrange the rice neatly on a hot dish, keeping it high in the center, and decorate it with stewed peaches, two ounces of dried currants and one ounce of dried angelica cut in small, lozenge-shaped pieces. Creamed Rice. Boil one tcacupful of washed rice in one and one-half pints of milk until quite soft and thick; when it is about half-cooked put in some thinly-pared lemon peel chopped very small, a small quantity of grated nutmeg or a laurel leaf, and sugar to taste. When the rice is quite done, pick out the laurel leaf, pour the rice into a mould, and let it stand until the following day. Turn it out, serve with a jam round it, or a thick custard poured over it. Rice, French Style. Wash well and blanch in boiling water for ten minutes one-fourth pound of rice. Boil it in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, adding three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one pint of milk, two bitter almond macaroons, one-half teaspoonful of orange-flower water, one-half ounce of orange-peel cut into shreds, about a dozen candied cherries cut into halves, and a dozen large, stoned, Muscatel raisins, also one-fourth ounce of thinly-sliced candied angelica. Pour into the mould, and when cold turn it out, and serve it with a sauce thickened with one gill of sherry, kirsch or rum. Rice Puffs. Put two breakfast cupfuls of cold, cooked rice into a basin, stir in one teaspoon- ful of bicarbonate of soda and three tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of wanned butter, the well-beaten yolks of five eggs and enough milk to form the whole into a Stiff paste. Then add the whites of the five eggs beaten to a froth; take the preparation up in a spoon, drop the lumps into a fryingpan of boiling fat, brown, remove 648 HOT DESSERTS. them, and drain off all the fat, put them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve without delay. Souffles. Souffles are usually cooked in flat, metal dishes, round tins or fluted moulds, ac- cording to the style, a very useful flat dish being one with a loose, tin lining, the souffle being kept nicely warmed by hot water in the larger vessel. (i). Mix in a saucepan two ounces of potato flour, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little finely-chopped lemon peel, and one teacupful of milk, and stir them over the fire until boiling; then put in one ounce of butter and continue stirring until the flour is cooked. When the mixture is cool add the beaten yolks of four eggs, stir quickly and then add the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Butter a souffle-dish, turn the mixture into it and bake it for twenty-five minutes in a mod- erate oven. Serve the souffle as soon as it is cooked. Cheese Souffles. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and one heaping tablespoonful of flour; when smooth, add one teacupful of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt and a little cavenne pepper, and cook for two minutes; then add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs and one breakfast cupful of grated cheese, and set it one side to cool. After it is cold, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, turn into a buttered dish, and bake for about thirty minutes, then serve immediately. Cherry Souffles. Put four ounces of flour into a saucepan, and pour in slowly one and one-half pints of milk, and stir it over the fire until thick and smooth. When cooked, take the mixture off the fire, and continue stirring until nearly cold. Warm four ounces of butter and whisk it until creamy; then mix in four ounces of sugar, six well-beaten eggs, and a small quantity of powdered sugar. Stir all these together with a pound and a half of black cherries. Butter a souffle-mould, and sprinkle in some grated breadcrumbs, shaking out the superfluous crumbs. Pour the mixture into the mould, cover it with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked, turn the souffle out onto a hot dish, and serve it at once. Chestnut Souffles. After slitting the skins of about three dozen large chestnuts, roast them, but do not allow them to brown, then peel, pound in a mortar, and rub through a sieve. Put the mixture back into the mortar with half its weight in sugar added, a part of which has been flavored with vanilla, and add the white of an egound of sugar. Place tlie pan on the stove, and when boiling, skim well. Cook for five minutes, stirring slowly from the bottom to avoid mashing the fruit; remove from the fire and imme- diately add one gill of red curacoa, mixing well together for about half a minute. Pour the whole into a bowl, let it get cool, turn it onto a dish, and serve. Stewed Peaches. Peel and cut into quarters ten medium-sized ripe peaches, removing the stones, put them into a saucepan witli one pint of cold water and add eight ounces of gran- ulated sugar. Place the pan on the stove, and when boiling, skim well; cook for five minutes, meanwhile stirring slowlv from the bottom to avoid mashing the fruit, re- move from the fire and immediately add a gill of kirsch, mixing well together for about half a minute, pour the preparation into a bowl, let it get cool, turn it out onto a dish, and serve. Stewed Peaches, Conde. Wipe the peaches, put them in a preserving- pan with some clarified sugar and stew them. Prepare a croustade of rice, bake it, and when done turn it out onto a hot dish; ornament it witli dried cherries and strips of angelica and put the stewed peaches around it; make a sauce with apricot marmalade and madeira in equal parts and pour it over. 7 i2 COLD DESSERTS. Stewed Pears. Cut some pears lengthwise in halves and remove the cores. Place them in a stewpan the cut side upwards; put in half a pound of sugar, pour over them one gill of red wine and sufficient cold water to cover. Add a few cloves and the thinly-pared rind of a lemon and stew them gently at the side of the fire. When tender, arrange the pears on a dish, strain their syrup through a fine hair-sieve over them, and serve. Stewed Pears and Rice. Peel and cut four large pears in halves, put them in a lined pan with half a pound of powdered sugar and one pint of claret, and let them boil slowly till tender. Wash four ounces of rice, and boil it in milk, sweetening to taste. Turn the rice on a hot dish, drain the pears, arrange them on it. Reduce the cooking liquor of the pears to half its original quantity, then pour it over the pears, and serve either hot or cold. Stewed Plums. Place in a saucepan with a pint of cold water eighteen to twenty ripe peeled plums cut into halves and stoned, and add half a pound of granulated sugar; put the pan on the stove, and when boiling skim thoroughly and cook for five minutes, stir- ring gradually from the bottom to avoid mashing the fruit. Take the pan from the fire, and add at once a gill of red curacoa, mixing well for about half a minute; pour the fruit into a bowl, let it cool, and serve on a dish. Stewed Pomegranates. Cut into halves about four pomegranates and take out all of the grains, placing the small ones in a cloth and pressing out all of the juice into a saucepan, mix in with it an equal quantity of water, and about four ounces of loaf-sugar, stirring con- tinually over a slow fire until it has become quite thick, and then remove from the fire to cool; arrange the pomegranates in a dish and pour over the svrup, sprinkling in a few drops of essence of orange-water, put in a few small pieces of ice, and serve, Stewed Prunes. Wash thoroughly a pound of prunes in hike warm water, and then put them into a saucepan with a pint of cold water in which half a pound of sugar has been dis- solved, and add the juice and the thin rind of a lemon. Set the saucepan at the side of the fire and simmer gently for an hour, by which time the fruit should be tender enough to mash readily. Remove the prunes and drain them; then put the saucepan with the syrup in it over the fire, and boil it to the degree at which it i> on the point of resolving itself into sugar. Put the prunes in a shallow dish, pour the syrup over COLD DESSERTS. 7 i 3 them, shaking them until they are well covered, but using proper care not to break them. Let them stay in the syrup for twelve hours, and then pile them into a glass dish, and serve. Stewed Quinces. Peel and core a dozen ripe quinces, cut them into quarters and put them into a saucepan with one pint of cold water, and one-half pound of granulated sugar. Put the pan on the stove, and when the contents boil skim well, and cook for fifteen minutes, stirring gently from the bottom to avoid mashing the fruit. Take it from the fire, and immediately add one gill of maraschino; stir lightly again, pour the pre- paration into a bowl to cool, and serve on a dish. Stewed Rhubarb. Take some thick stalks of rhubarb, cut them into pieces about one and one-half inches long, and plunge them into a vessel of fast-boiling water. At the end of three minutes' time, when they should be tender, drain off the water, and serve the rhubarb with a liberal sprinkling of white sifted sugar on it. Apple Tart and Custard. Place a border of rich puff-paste around the pie-dish and put in some apples pared, cored and cut into thin slices; sprinkle over them a little sugar and grated rind of lemon. Mix a little lemon-juice with some water, pour it over the apples and cover with a crust of paste. Place in the oven, baking for about three-quarters of an hour, then remove and with a sharp knife cut away all the inside of the crust, leaving merely the border. Pour over the apples a little boiled custard, grate over a little nutmeg and allow the tart to cool, and serve. Apple Open-Tart. Place the quantity of apples to be used in a saucepan after peeling, coring and slicing them, and add a little sugar and water together with a small quantity of lemon-peel and grated nutmeg. Cook gently until the apples are quite tender, then put the mixture in a basin to cool. Cover a shallow pie-dish lined with rich puff- paste with the mixture to a depth of about half an inch. Then place on top more of the paste rolled out into strips running from side to side to the edge of the crust. Trim and bake in a moderate oven until done, which is known by the crust being easily separated from the dish. Turn out carefullv onto another dish, and serve. Cranberry Tart. Put about a quart of cranberries into a saucepan with one gill of water, sprinkle over one teacupful of moist sugar, place it on a brisk fire, stir gently with a spatula, 7 i 4 COLD DESSERTS. and cook for about fifteen minutes. Remove from the fire, rub the fruit through a sieve into a basin, and pour it into a flat dish lined with paste. Put it in the oven and bake for twenty minutes, take out and let it cool. Beat to a stiff froth the whites of three eggs, and stir in three ounces of powdered sugar; spread half of this over the tart, make the surface flat with a knife, place the remainder in a pastrv-bag, and decorate with anv design. Then sprinkle over a liberal quantity of powdered sugar, brown the tart in the oven for about ten minutes, allow it to get cold, and then serve. Cream Tart. Put one quart of milk into a saucepan, flavor it with vanilla, place it over the fire, stir in gradually four tablespoonfuls of the finest sifted flour, sweeten to taste with caster-sugar, and continue stirring over the fire until thick. When readv, move the cream to the side of the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of six eggs, taking care to keep the mixture free from lumps. Rub one-half pound of butter into one pound of flour till quite smooth, and add the beaten volk of three eggs, and sufficient milk to make a stiff paste. Sprinkle a little flour over the table, roll the paste out, stick about two ounces of butter over it in little pieces, fold over, and leave again for half an hour, then beat the paste again with a rolling-pin, dust it over with a little more flour, and roll it out. Butter a tart-dish, line it with the paste and pour in the pre- pared cream, using the trimmings of the paste to make a rim to the tart and strips across. Brush the paste over with a feather or a fine brush dipped in the beaten volk of an egg, and bake in a quick oven. Serve either cold or hot. Chocolate Cream Tarts. Boil a pint of milk with one ounce of grated chocolate and a little sugar. Mix- two ounces of flour with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and beat them in the boiling milk, then add one ounce of butter and four yolks of beaten eggs, removing the pan before the eggs are cooked. Line tart-pans with tart-paste, fill with the chocolate cream, and bake in a slack oven. Whip the whites of the eggs, add two tablespoon- fuls of powdered sugar, and make a meringue. Squeeze this from a bag over the tops of the tarts, and brown. Currant Tart. Place three breakfast cupfuls of thoroughly cleaned currants in a basin with four ounces of powdered sugar. Line a tart-dish with paste and spread over it a tablespoonful of apple sauce; place the currants and sugar over this, put a rim of paste round the edge of the dish and moisten with beaten egg on both sides before putting it on, fasten it securely at the ends, put the dish in a moderate oven and bake for about fiftv minutes. Take it out, sprinkle the surface well with powdered sugar, return it to the oven to melt the sugar, take out again, spread over some sweet jelly, and serve. COLD DESSERTS. l S Gooseberry-and-Cream Tarts. Line some small patty-pans with puff paste and bake them gentiv in the oven; turn them out when done, half fill them with well-whipped cream and cook for a few minutes until the cream is firm, put ripe gooseberries glazed with syrup over the top, and serve either warm or cold. Jellv Tarts. Roll out one-half pound of rich puff paste, cut it into rounds about two and one- half inches in diameter, dampen the edges with water, pinch the paste so that it will assume shapes like three-cornered hats, put a small tin of the same shape inside each tart and bake lightly in a moderate oven. Remove them when done, brush over the paste with egg and glaze, pipe around the sides both inside and out. fill up with small squares of any kind of jelly, over this place a heap of well-whipped cream, pipe over this again, and serve. Lemon Tart. Butter a pic-dish and line it with a rich paste; slice five lemons thin, place them in the dish, dredge over one tablespoonful of flour, put in one breakfast cupful of sugar and pour in one pint of water. Cover the pie with a top of the same paste. moistening it round the edges and trimming neatly, place it in a brisk oven and bake for nearly an hour. When cooked dust powdered sugar over the tart, and serve. Meringue Tarts. Have in readiness some tarts made of any preserved fruit or jam. Meanwhile whisk the whites of two eggs to a froth, adding slowly four ounces of sugar and a little lemon or vanilla flavoring; pour it over the tart to about one inch in thicknos. smoothing it with a knife, put the tart in the oven for a few minutes to color slightly the meringue, and serve. It may be served either hot or cold, as preferred. Peach Tart. Line a pie-dish with puff paste, put twelve half |>eaches at the bottom, dust over with two or three tablespoonfuls of finelv-powdered sugar, pour over one-half wine- glassful of any white wine; over this put six chopped apples, and one breakfast cup- ful of rich custard flavored with noyau, cover with more paste, put a piece of paper over that, and bake in a moderate oven. When done, spread the top over with two well-whipped whites of eggs, mixed with one tablespoonful of powdered sugar; over this arrange preserved cherries and imitation leaves cut out of angelica, arranging them according to fancy. Place the pie in the oven for a few minutes so as to set the egg, and it is then ready for serving: or it may be served cold. 7 i6 COLD DESSERTS. Pear Tart. Core and peel a dozen or so of cooking-pears, fill up the cavity with sponge-cake soaked in sherry wine, place them in a pie-dish, pour over a liquor glassful of orange- flower water, sprinkle over a good supply of sugar, about half fill the dish with cold water, cover over the top with puff paste, glaze the surface, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve either hot or cold. Pineapple Tarts. Peel and cut into fine slices a medium-sized pineapple, lay them in a basin and mix in with them three ounces of powdered loaf sugar; line a pie-dish with paste, spread over it a tablespoonful of apple-sauce, and arrange the pineapple on top; take three ounces more of paste, roll it out lengthwise two feet long, and fold carefully in two so as to form a very narrow strip, roll a trifle more until about thirty inches long by about one inch wide, and pare off both sides evenly, so as to make it exactly one inch in width. Moisten the edge of the pie with beaten egg, and place the strip around fastening the ends together one over the other, glaze the top of the strip with beaten egg, place the pie in a moderate oven and bake for fifty minutes. Remove to the door, dredge the pie well with powdered sugar, and return it to the oven for a few minutes to let the sugar melt, and spread evenly over the top two ounces of sweet jelly, and serve. Plum Tart. Peel five dozen black plums and arrange in a tart-dish in lavers, sprinkling over each laver with a little caster-sugar; the stones are not to be removed. Make a border of short paste round the rim of the dish and cover it with a flat of the paste. Ornament the tart, brush it over with a little water and sprinkle it over with some caster-sugar. Put in a moderate oven and bake. Raspberry Tart. L,ine a flat dish with a rich paste; over this spread twelve ounces of apple marma- lade, place a strip of paste round the rim and bake in a moderate oven for thirty min- utes. Remove the tart to the door of the oven, sprinkle it over plentifully with powdered sugar, push it back into the oven, close the door and bake for about two minutes to melt the sugar. Remove it, let it get cold, scoop out with a spoon about half of the apple, fill it up with one and one-half pints of well-cleaned and carefully- picked raspberries, spread the top over with two ounces of apple jelly, and serve cold. Raspb< ierry Tarts with Cream. Putter some rather large patty-pans and line them with a thin laver of puff paste. Pick the raspberries over carefully to remove all the stems, etc., place them COLD DESSERTS. 7i7 in the pans, sprinkle with sugar and cover with paste, trimming it off neatly round the edges. Bake the tarts in a quick oven. Beat the yolks of three eggs with one- half pint of cream and sweeten slightly with sugar. When the tarts are cooked lift the covers, pour in the cream and place them in the oven for seven or eight minutes longer. The tarts may be served either hot or cold. Strawberry Tart. Turn one pound of crushed loaf sugar into a preserving-pan with one-fourth pint of water, and boil it to a syrup. Put the whites of two eggs into the syrup and re- remove the scum off the top until only the foam arises. Pick the tops off one quart of strawberries, put them in the syrup and boil them until they look clear. Butter a tart-dish, line it with a short paste and bake it. When the paste is done, pour the stewed strawberries into it. and serve. Almond Tartlets. Line a sufficient number of tartlet-moulds with paste, cut the paste on the rims of the moulds, then mask the bottom with a thin layer of marmalade. Pound some blanched almonds dried in the oven, mixing by degrees the same amount of sugar, a little orange or lemon zest, and the yolk of half a dozen c^s. Fill the tartlets, sprinkle them over with fine sugar, and bake in a slack oven for twenty-five or thirty minutes. Cherry Tartlets. Line six or eight scalloped tart-moulds with one-half pound of puff-paste, press down the bottom and the sides to get the impression of the moulds, mask them with three ounces of apple marmalade spread equally over this, throw in one pound of stoned cherries, sprinkle them with powdered loaf-sugar, and bake in a medium oven for twenty minutes. Sprinkle more powdered sugar on the edges and melt or glaze it in the oven for two minutes; then remove the tartlets and let them get cool. Turn them out of the moulds, cover with a thin coating of apple-jelly, and serve on a dish with an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin. Fancy Tartlets. Remove the peels and cores from half a dozen large cooking-apples, cut them into slices, put them in a stewpan with six tablespoonfuls of crushed loaf-sugar, half a stick of cinnamon, three or four cloves, a thin slice of lemon-peel and a little- water. Stew the apples over a gentle fire until they are tender. When cooked, pass them through a fine wire-sieve. Beat three fresh cgL, r s well, mix with them four crushed stale sponge cakes, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and three ounces of warmed butter and beat the mixture well. Butter and line some pattypans with a rich tart paste, half fill each one with the apple-paste, spread the cake mixture on the top and 718 COLD DESSERTS. bake the tarts in a moderate oven until they are nicely browned. When cooked, re- move them from their tins, arrange them on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or piece of ornamental dish-paper, and serve. Gooseberry Tartlets. Take the required quantity of green gooseberries, put them in a saucepan of boiling water and let them bubble for two or three minutes; then put them in a basin, sprinkle sugar over and let them cool. Rub three-quarters of a pound of butter in with one pound of flour, put in two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one pinch of salt; beat together the yolks of three eggs and a little water, and with them mix the flour to a smooth paste. Take about fifteen tartlet-moulds, butter and line them with the paste. Take the gooseberries out with a skimmer and put some in the center of each tart. Reduce the liquor from the gooseberries in a saucepan with a little syrup until quite thick. When cold, pour a little over each tart, and serve with a little whipped cream on top. Orange Tartlets. Remove the rinds from one dozen sweet oranges, quarter them and take out the core; boil for about three minutes in a small quantity of sugar and water, and put on a sieve to drain. Boil the juice that runs from them, and the liquor that they were boiled in to a syrup. Have ready some shells of. pastry baked in patty-pans. Put the oranges in the hot syrup for a few minutes, but do not let them boil, lay them in the shells of crust, and just before serving pour the syrup over. Paganini Tartlets. Put the whites of three eggs into a basin, beat them to a froth, and add by degrees five or six ounces of sifted crushed loaf sugar. Have in readiness one tartlet or patty-pah lined with puff paste, put a little orange or apricot marmalade in the center of each, and bake them in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. When done remove them, heap the ct>g mixture on top, and serve them either hot or cold. Peach Tartlets. Sift one pound of flour through a fine sieve onto a table, make a hollow in the center and put in twelve ounces of butter broken in little bits, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, the yolks of three eggs and a little water, and work them gradually together. Line a dozen or more buttered tartlet-moulds with the prepared paste, put a thin layer of apple marmalade on the bottom of each, and half fill them with rice boiled in milk; cover each with paper and bake in a moderate oven. When done remove from the oven and leave them lor ten minutes, then spread in a layer of marmalade, fill up the spaces with rice that has been boiled and mixed with cream, COLD DESSERTS. 719 and put half a preserved peach on each, round side upward. Squeeze some meringue through a biscuit-forcer in little beads between the paste and peaches, sprinkle pow- dered sugar over and place them in a slow oven for ten or twelve minutes. Reduce the peach syrup, take the tartlets out of the oven, dip a paste-brush in the syrup, and brush the peaches over with it. Arrange them in a group on a dish covered with an ornamental dish-paper, and serve. Pear Tartlets. Roll out eight ounces of puff paste twelve inches long by eight inches wide, cut it in six pieces with a cutter, arrange them on six scalloped tart-pans three and one- half inches wide, and press down the paste at the bottom and sides so as to have the impression of th>- moulds, but without touching the rim, which will rise considerably when baked. Mask them with three ounces of apple marmalade equally divided; on top of this put half a large pear, dust them over with pounded sugar, put them on a baking-sheet and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Bring them to the oven door, dust the edges over lightly with more powdered sugar, melt this in the oven for about two minutes, take them out and let them cool. Spread over each a little apple jelly, turn them out carefully on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve. Plum Tartlets. Roll out some puff paste to twenty-one inches by eight inches and cut round with a cutter. Line six fluted tartlet tins with the paste and press the paste at the bottom and sides so as to retain the shape of the mould, mask them with three ounces of apple marmalade equally divided; over this place a dozen plums cut in halves and stoned, dust over witli powdered sugar and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate Oven; bring them to the oven door, dust the edges over with powdered sugar, melt this for a couple of minutes in the oven and take out the tarts, let them cool and turn them out of the pans. Then mask them with a little apple-jelly and serve on a nap- kin spread over a dish. Roman Tartlets. Put the whites of half a dozen eggs into a whipping-bowl and beat them to a froth; add by degrees one-half pound of powdered sugar and after this is worked in add one dessertspoonful of corn starch, (ire.it rare must be observed in adding the latter, otherwise the pastry will be tough and useless; the beating must stop and the cornstarch only stirred in. Cover a tin or baking-sheet with oiled paper; on this place as manv small rings as will be required, also Lined with oiled paper, make them hot, pour two table-spoonfuls of the mixture into each ring, place them in a moderate oven, and as they are baking make an indentation in each with the back of a spoon. When done remove, pile upon them whipped cream, decorate with small pieces of various-colored jellies, and serve. 7 2o COLD DESSERTS. Rhubarb Tartlets. Choose a quantity of nice young rhubarb, wipe it on a cloth, cut it up into con- venient lengths, put it into a stewpan with two or three small pieces of lemon peel, the juice of a lemon, a little water, and plenty of sugar, and stew it gently at the side of the fire. Make a quantity of good short-paste, line a number of buttered tartlet- pans with it, trim the edges neatly, fill them with uncooked rice, and bake them in a moderate oven. Mix the well-whisked white of an egg with one-half pint of cream, and sweeten it with loaf-sugar that has been rubbed on the yellow rind of a lemon, and then pounded and whisked to a firm froth, standing the basin, if possible, over the ice. When the tartlets are cooked turn the rice out, and remove them from their tins; fill each one with a quantity of the rhubarb, and pile the cream on top of them. Spread a fancy dish-paper or a folded napkin over a hot dish, arrange the tartlets on it, and serve. Strawberry Tartlets. Put one pound of coarsely-crushed loaf-sugar into a saucepan with a small quan- tity of water, and boil until it is reduced to a syrup, then take it off the fire and mix it with one wineglassful of brandy or sherry. Pick the stems off some freshly gath- ered ripe strawberries and put them in the syrup. Butter some small patty-pans, and line them with a good short paste, fill them with uncooked rice and bake them. When the tartlets are cooked turn the rice out, fill them with the strawberries and syrup, and put them in the oven for ten minutes. Spread a folded napkin on a hot dish, arrange the tartlets on it, and serve them accompanied with cream in a pitcher, if desired. Vanilla Tartlets. Peel and blanch five dozen almonds, place them in a mortar with five ounces of loaf sugar, pound them to a powder, and then mix in with them a small quantity of vanilla sugar. Whip the whites of half a dozen eggs to a stiff froth, stir the pounded almonds and sugar in with them. Butter some tartlet-moulds, line them with puff-paste, fill them with the egg mixture, and bake them in a moderate oven. The tartlets may be served either hot or cold. Walnut Salad. Break the shells of some walnuts, remove the kernels carefully, blanch them to remove the skins, place them on a dish, squeeze over them the juice of one or two lemons, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let them macerate for three hours, turning them about occasionally. At the end of that time they will be ready for serving and will make a very nice dish. If the juice of some unripe grapes cm be obtained, it will be preferable to the lemon-juice. COLD DESSERTS. 721 Sugared Walnuts. Take off the skins of about three dozen walnuts, separate them into halves and mask them with an icing made of four ounces of sugar and an egg, Place them on a sheet of thick paper, stand them in the oven, and bake until of a light brown color. Take them out, remove them from the paper when cold, and they arc then ready for use. The walnuts, after being skinned and divided into halves, should be dried at the oven door. Serve them piled on a glass dish. A delicious sweetmeat is made by dipping the kernels into thick chocolate and icing. Ice-Creams and Ices. Lemon Bavarois. Put the peel of two lemons in with one and one-half pints of boiling milk, and let soak for an hour. Steep one and one-half ounces of gelatine in water for fifteen minutes, drain and put it in a stewpan with ten ounces of powdered sugar, the beaten yolks of eight eggs, and the lemon milk. Place the pan on the fire until the egg begins to thicken, but do not allow it to boil, strain through a fine hair-sieve into a stewpan, and place this on the ice, and stir the custard till it coats the spoon, add- ing one and one-half pints of double-whipped cream Coat a mould with some lemon jelly that has not quite set, let it set in the mould, and pour in the lemon cream. Freezx for two hours. Maraschino Bavarois. Put into a saucepan one and one-half ounces of isinglass, the strained juice of two lemons, four tablespoonfuls of loaf-sugar, and one-half pint of water, and boil until the liquor is reduced to half its original quantity, then skim it carefully and pass it through a fine silk-sieve into a basin. When cold stir in well four wineglassfuls of Maraschino and two wineglassfuls of brandv, and leave until on the point of setting; then mix one pint of well-whipped cream with it, and pour the whole into a mould. Pack the mould in ice, and leave it until the cream has set. When ready to serve dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it and turn the bavarois onto a fancy dish. Bavarois of Pineapple. Peel the pine, cut it into slices one-eighth inch in thickness, put them in a pre- serving pan with eight ounces of loaf sugar, one-half ounce of isinglass and one-half teacupful of water. Put the pan over a moderate fire, and stew the contents till tender, keeping them well stirred. Rub the pine through a fine hair-sieve into a basin, stand it on ice and keep it stirred till on the point of setting, them mix in thoroughly one pint of well-whipped cream. Pour the bavarois into a mould, close it, and pack it in pounded ice and salt. In about two hours time or more, dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it, and turn the bavarois out on a glass or fancy dish, and serve. Bavarois of Pistachios. Planch and skin a quarter <>l a pound of pistachios ami a dozen bitter almonds, pound in a mortar with six ounces of loaf sugar upon which has been rubbed the rind T2J ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 723 of a lemon; the pounded pistachios, etc., are then placed in a saucepan with three- quarters of a pint of boiling milk and one ounce of isinglass. Stir this mixture over the fire, and boil for about five minutes, then turn it into a basin. Set it on ice, and stir until it is at the point cf setting, then mix in with it one pint of well-whipped cream, the juice of some spinach boiled until it has become curdled, and brush the inside of a mould with a paste-brush dipped in a little half-set jelly, then sprinkle in some of the chopped pistachios shaking them until they adhere to the sides. Pour the bavarois into the mould, place on the cover, and pack it in pounded ice and salt. When readv, say two hours after being placed in the ice-pack, turn it onto a fancy dish, and serve Iced Charlotte. Take six small charlotte-moulds, and line them neatly with a dozen lady's-finger biscuits cut crosswise into halves. Have ready one and one-half pint of vanilla ice- cream, turn this into the interiors of the moulds, and then turn them onto a dessert- dish with a folded napkin over. Divide the remainder of the ice-cream evenly among the six charlottes, placing one macaroon on top of each, then send immediately to the table. Charlotte Panachee. Line six charlotte-moulds as for charlotte glaccs, fill them with about a pint of vanilla ice-cream, then turn them onto six cold dessert-plates. Take a pastry-bag, and slide down in it a fancy-shaped tube, and pour into it one pint of vanilla cream, whipped; press a small quantity of this onto the top of the charlottes, arrange over them half a dozen macaroons, press on a little more cream about the size of a walnut on the top of each macaroon, then with the balance of the cream decorate the bottom of the charlottes all around, and then serve. Ice-Cream. The kind of cream usually made is composed of milk and a small proportion of cream, with eggs and sugar added to it. Dissolve one-half pound or so of sugar in one quart of milk, place it over the fire, and let it heat to the boiling point. In the meantime beat three eggs, pour the boiling milk into them, return to the fire, and stir until it begins to thicken. Then take it from the fire, stir again until quite smooth, flavor and allow it to cool. When cold, freeze it in the freezer. Almond and Raspberry Ice-Cream. Blanch, peel and pound half a pound of Jordan almonds and half an ounce of bitter almonds. Boil three pints of cream or half milk and half cream, pour it into a stewpan and let it cool; then stir in half a pound of finely-powdered sugar, and when that is quite dissolved, beat it up sharply and stir in the yolks of twelve eggs, stirring 724 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. over the fire without allowing it to boil, until the mixture thickens; add quickly the pounded almonds, and a tablespocnful of kirsch; strain the whole through a tammy cloth into a basin. Then mix one quart of raspberry juice and one quart of syrup at eighteen degrees by the saccharometer, or take two quarts of raspberry syrup made without vinegar, and strain through a sieve if necessary. Freeze these two mixtures in separate pots, and serve in layers. Apricot and Pistachio Ice-Cream. Blanch, peel and pound a small quantity of pistachio kernels, say a quarter pound; boil some milk, and put the yolks of a half dozen eggs into a stewpan, with a little pounded sugar and the boiled milk. Stir over the fire until the eggs begin to thicken. Allow this to become cool, and then add the pounded pistachios and a little green spinach-coloring, straining the whole through a tammy-cloth into a basin. Make a pint or so of apricot puree (by stewing the fruit until soft and then rubbing it through a sieve), mix a pint of syrup, and strain through a sieve. Freeze the two mixtures separately, and serve them moulded together. Banana Ice-Cream. Mix in a saucepan over the fire the following proportions: One pint of water, three teacupfuls of sugar, and after boiling for twenty minutes, add the pulp of half a dozen bananas, or one or two more, if strong flavor is desired, also adding the well- beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir well for six minutes, then remove from the fire, put in a bowl of cold water, and beat well for ten minutes. When cold, pass it through a tammy-sieve adding a quart of cream, turn the whole into the freezer, and let it remain until frozen, when it is ready for serving. Brown Bread Ice-Cream. Grate enough brown breadcrumbs to fill two breakfast cups ; boil a pint of milk and pour over the crumbs, flavoring with a breakfast cupful of noyau or mara- schino syrup ; when cold turn this preparation into a frcczing-pot, and work it until frozen ; then place it in the mould and pack in pounded ice and salt for two hours. When ready to serve, dip the mould in tepid water and wipe it, turning the contents out onto a fancy dish. Caramel Ice-Cream. Place in a copper basin ten ounces of sugar together with a small quantity of water and cook to a caramel, then pour it out onto a marble slab to become cool, alter which pound it and again place it in the basin with half a dozen yolks oi eggs, a quar- ter of a vanilla stick, and one pint of boiling milk. Cook over a slow fire without ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 725 boiling, and remove when it covers the spatula. After it has become cold, add one pint of cream, straining it through a sieve, and freeze. Chestnut Ice-Cream. Into a saucepan with twelve ounces of sugar put six ounces of chestnut flour, one stick of chopped vanilla, one and one-half pints of cream and the volks of eight eggs. Beat all well together, and stir it over the fire until thick; then strain, pass it through a coarse hair-sieve, freeze it, add one-half pint of whipped cream, set it in a mould and pack in ice and salt; unmould just when serving. Chocolate Ice-Cream. Put half a pound of chocolate in a saucepan over the fire, let it melt, and work with a spoon, add three pints of vanilla cream poured in gradually, and, lastly, five ounces of dissolved gelatine. Stir over the ice, turn in a mould packed with ice, and let it freeze. Citron Ice-Cream. With lumps of sugar rub off the rind of a large citron, scrape them into a basin, and stir in the juice of a lemon, sweeten with sugar and two breakfast cupfuls of cream. Pour the mixture into a freezer, and work it thoroughly. When frozen, it is ready for use. Coffee Ice-Cream. Put one breakfast cupful of ground coffee in a bottle with one pint of water, and allow it to steep all night, then strain it through a cloth previously rinsed in hot water. Beat twelve ounces of caster-sugar with one and one-half pints of cream, and mix this with the coffee. Place the mixture in a freezer, turn this about with one hand, and work the cream from the sides with the other. In this way, the cream can be frozen in a few minutes. French Ice-Cream. Boil one quart of cream with a long vanilla bean, and then cool and strain. Beat the yolks of a dozen eggs, and mingle with three-fourths of a pound of sugar, mix the flavored cream with the eggs, stir over the fire, take it off as soon as it begins to thicken, and stir for five minutes, then cool and freeze. Fruit Ice-Cream. Dissolve in the strained juice of three lemons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and mix with it one wine-glassful each of sherry and grape syrup and one pint of cream. Stir the mixture well, then turn it into the freezer, and work it until frozen, Mix 726 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. with the cream a quarter of a pound of preserved fruits cut into small pieces, turn all into a mould, cover, and pack it in pounded salt and ice for an hour or so. Dip the mould quickly into hot water to loosen the cream, wipe it, and turn the contents onto a fancy dish. Ginger Ice-Cream. Put the yolks of eight eggs into a saucepan with three-quarters of a pound of sugar and work it with a wooden spoon until quite frothy; stir in a pint of boiling milk and a little orange or lemon flavoring. Let it get cold and place in the freezer until it thickens. Put half a pound of preserved ginger into a mortar, pound it well, pass it through a. fine sieve and add first a few tablespoonfuls of rum and then a few tablespoonfuls of the ice. When these ingredients are exhausted, place it again in the freezer, work it, and when firm, place on a paper on a dish in the form of rocks, and serve. Hazel-nut Ice-Cream. Blanch and chop fine one-fourth pound of hazel-nuts weighed without their shells, place them in a basin with six ounces of sugar, two ounces of flour and six well-beaten eggs. Pour one quart of milk in a saucepan, place it over a moderate fire until on the point of boiling, then stir in by degrees the other ingredients and stir it at the side of the fire with a wooden spoon until thick, but do not let it boil again or the eggs will curdle. Take the mixture off the fire, flavor with a few drops of any desired essence and turn into a fancy-shaped mould. When the cream has cooled slightly, pack the mould in pounded ice and salt; dip the mould in warm water to loosen the contents, and turn the cream onto a dish. Hickory-nut Ice-Cream. Shell a sufficient quantity of hickory-nuts to make a weight of one pound of the kernels. Place them in a mortar with a little sugar and water and pound them to a paste. Put two tablespoonfuls of sugar in a pan over the fire, allow it to melt and brown a little, add water to dissolve and pour in one quart of cream; melt in this two breakfast cupfuls of caster-sugar, add the nut-paste, place all in a freezer, and freeze. Kirsch Ice-Cream. Mix two wineglassfuls of kirsch with one-half wine-glassful of cream, add enough sugar to sweeten properly, place it in the freezer, and when it is sufficiently stiff, put it in a mould packed in ice, freeze again, and it is then ready for use. Turn it out onto an ornamental dish. Lemon Ice-Cream. Add to the juice of five lemons the grated peel of one, one-half pint of clarified sugar, and one pint of cream; mix all thoroughly together, then strain through a sieVe into a mould or glasses packed in ice, and fn - ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 727 Lemon Ice-Cream. No. 2. Boil one pint of water together with the strained juice of three lemons, and one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of powdered sugar for twenty minutes. Beat the yolks of eight eggs, and one pinch of salt; pour the syrup in a basin, and stand it in a larger one containing hot water. Stir the yolks of the eggs into the syrup and beat rapidlv for three minutes. Remove the basin from the boiling water, place it in a pan of ice-water, and beat until cold. Add the cream, pour all into a freezer, and work until frozen. Macaroon Ice-Cream. Dry six ounces of macaroons in the oven. Remove them to the table to cool, place them in a mortar, pound, sift thoroughly, and lay a sheet of paper over ; have ready a vanilla ice-cream, add it to the sifted macaroons, and mix them thoroughly with the spatula for five minutes, and with this fill a three-pint mould and cover it tightly. Have a pail ready with room for broken ice and rock-salt at the bottom, lay the mould in and fill up the pail with more ice and salt. Let it freeze for two hours and when it is ready to serve, dip the mould into warm water, turn the cream out onto a fancy dish, and serve right away. Maraschino Ice-Cream. Place two quarts of cream in a pan on the fire. Whisk the whites of two 1 a froth, then add the volks of eight eggs beaten up with one pound of powdered white sugar; stir them lightly together, and when the cream boils, add to it by degrees, whisking all the time. Place the mixture over the fire and let it boil two times, still whisking ; then run it through a sieve. When it is cold mix it with three liqueur glassfuls of Maraschino, place in a freezer, cover, and freeze it. Orange Ice-Cream. Put the rinds of two oranges rubbed off with three-fourth pound of sugar into a saucepan, add the yolks of eight eggs, the juice of six oranges, and a little salt, stir well over the fire until the mixture thickens, working it brisklv ; then pour it into a mould packed in ice, freeze, and when wanted turn out onto a dish, and serve very cold. Neapolitan Ice-Cream. Make one pint of vanilla ice cream, one pint of raspberry water ice and one pint of pistachio ice cream. Take a long brick-form mould, holding three pints, put the raspberry water ice at the bottom, arrange the vanilla cream on top, and fill up with the pistachio, and cover tightly. Set the mould on broken ice, mixed with rock salt, at the bottom of a pail; fill up the pail with more ice and s.dt, and freeze for two hour,. Plunge the mould in warm water to wash off the ice and salt, and turn the 728 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. cream on a piece of paper laid on the table. Dip a long knife in warm water, cut the brick lengthwise through the middle, divide each piece into three, so that the Neapolitan will then be in six equal-sized pieces, each having the three kinds of cream. Dress on a cold dish, with a fancy paper on top, and serve. New York Ice-Cream. Put into a saucepan three breakfast cupfuls of milk, one-fourth pound of gelatine, ten tablespoonfuls of sugar, and set the saucepan at the side of the fire, where the milk will heat up by degrees, and thus give the gelatine time to dissolve; stir frequently from the bottom until the milk boils, add a vanilla bean. Pour a little more milk in a bowl, together with the yolks of ten eggs, whisk them well, pour the boiling milk over, and strain into a freezer. The vanilla bean may be wiped and put away to be used another time. When the custard has become cold, and has begun to freeze, whisk the cup of cream to froth, stir it in, and finish the freezing as usual, working the cream until it is twice its original bulk. It is then ready for serving. Nougat Ice-Cream. Put the nougat in a mortar with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water, and pound it. Put the yolks of three eggs in a saucepan with one and one-half pints of cream, and twelve tablespoonfuls of fine sugar and beat. Mix the bruised nougat and three drops of the essence of peach-kernels with the milk and eggs, and stir the whole over the fire till on the point of thickening. Pass the mixture through a fine hair-sieve into a basin and leave till cooled. When ready turn the nougat cream into the freezer and freeze it. The cream can be served as it is or may be turned into moulds and packed in ice for about two hours. Before serving, the mould should be dipped in warm water, wiped, and the contents turned out on a fancy dish. Nut Ice-Cream. Beat well the yolks of seven or eight eggs in a saucepan and add gradually about twelve ounces of sifted crushed loaf sugar, working it to a froth with ;i wooden spoon, then pour in one pint of boiling milk and add one stick of vanilla to flavor. Pour the cream into a basin and add six tablespoonfuls of nuts blanched and pounded to a paste with a few blanched sweet almonds. Let the preparation cool, pass it through a fine hair-sieve into a freezer, and when frozen it is ready for use. Peach Ice-Cream. Peel six ripe peaches and boil them in one-fourth pint of water till dissolved; pass the pulp through a fine hair-sieve, then mix with it one pint of syrup, one pint of thick cream, a few drops of essence of kernels, and color it lightly with a little ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 7 2 9 cochineal. Put the preparation in a freezing-pot and work it till frozen. Fill a plain mould with the peach ice, put the lid on, and pack it in ice. When ready to serve, dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it and turn the cream out onto a dish. Pear Ice-Cream. Peel twelve mellow pears, cut them in charters and core, pass them through a fine hair-sieve with one pint of cream, sweeten to taste with sugar, and squeeze in a little lemon juice. Turn the preparation into a freezing-pot working it from the sides to the middle as it freezes. When frozen put the cream in an ice-mould, cover and pack it in ice. Turn the contents of the mould onto a dish when ready to serve. Pistachio Ice-Cream. Place in a saucepan six ounces of pistachios after they have been well scalded, cleaned and pounded, add three-quarters of a pound of crushed loaf sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, a little salt and three breakfast cupfuls of cream (or milk), place over the fire and stir it well until quite thick; then rub it through a fine hair- Bieve into a basin and add a tablcspoonful of orange-flower water to flavor, two table- spoonfuls of spinach green to color and turn all into the freezer, and when it becomes thoroughly frozen it is ready for use. Plombiere Ice-Cream. Put into a stewpan one and one-half pints of milk or cream, fourteen ounces of caster-sugar, six ounces of ground sweet almonds and fifteen bitter ones (previously well pounded with one tablespoonful of orange- flower water), three ounces of apricot jam diluted with one tcacupful of water, and the volks of eight eggs, and place the pan over the fire, stirring constantly; when the mixture begins to get thick take it off and pass it through a fine sieve into a basin. Pour the preparation into a freezer, twisting the pan vigorously, and sometimes working with a knife or spatula. When the mixture is nearly stiff, add the whites of two Italian meringues and work well again, add last of all one-half pint of well-whipped cream. It can cither be turned out onto moulds, or served on a dish with a folded napkin. Ilea]) it up in layers with apricot jam between, surrounded at the base with some almond cakes. Plum Ice-Cream. Put in a basin one quart of freshly-gathered plums, and work in one pound of finely-crushed loaf sugar. When the sugar is quite dissolved, pour over it a quart of cream, and beat well together, passing the mixture through a fine hair-sieve into the freezer, and then turn it into a mould packed with ice until it is quite set, when it may lie served. 7 3 o ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. Portuguese Ice-Cream. Put one-fourth pound of sugar into a pan, set it on the fire and stir it until it begins to boil; then place it in the oven to bake. Remove it when done, and add a stick of bruised cinnamon, and the thin rind of a lemon. Put it back in the oven and let it remain for a few minutes longer; pour one-half pint of water into a basin containing the yolks of ten eggs, one and one-half pints of milk, and one pound of caster-sugar; stir these well together and pour into the pan on the fire, stir until it thickens, and then pass through a fine sieve into a bowl or basin. Add one wine- glassful of curacoa, place the basin on the ice to freeze the contents, and just before it is completed mix in one breakfast cupful of well-whipped cream, three ounces of sliced pistachios, and the same quantity of finely-minced candied orange-peel. When it has frozen sufficiently, it is ready to be served. Punch Ice-Cream. Make about one-half teacupful of strong green tea, strain it when cold, mix with it one pint of rich cream, and add two wineglassfuls of rum and the strained juice of half a lemon. Sweeten the cream to taste, pour it into a freezing-pot, work it until well frozen, then pack it in a mould, and bury it in pounded ice and salt for an hour. When ready to serve the mould must be dipped into hot water, wiped quickly, and then turned out onto a hot dish. Ratafia Ice-Cream. Put eight ounces of crushed ratafias into a saucepan, pour over two breakfast cupfuls of ratafia cream, add the yolks of half a dozen eggs and a little sugar, and stir well over the fire until the mixture is quite smooth and has the appearance of custard. Pass it through a fine wire-sieve into a freezer, work well, turn it into a mould packed in ice, and let it stay there until required. The ratafias should be crushed as fine as possible. Sherbet Ice-Cream. Beat up very lightly the volks of three eggs with one tablespoonful of orange- flower water, then mix in by degrees one quart of cream. Turn this into a saucepan over the fire, cover over, and as quickly as it boils strain it through a sieve, and mix into it six ounces of powdered white sugar. As soon as the sugar is quite melted, pour the cream into an ice-pail, and stand it in a refrigerator until frozen. Strawberry Ice-Cream. Put one pound of strawberries into a basin with sufficient crushed loaf sugar to sweeten, add the Strained juice of one or two lemons, and pass the whole through a sieve into another basin. Add a little cochineal to color, two breakfast cupfuls of ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 73 i cream, and more sifted sugar if required. Turn the preparation into the freezer, work it well, place it in a mould packed in ice, let it set, then turn it out, and it is ready for use. Vanilla Ice-Cream. Mix thoroughly together one quart of nice fresh cream, a well-beaten egg and one pound of powdered white sugar; add one-fourth of a vanilla bean cut into pieces, place it over the fire in a saucepan and keep it stirred constantly till on the point of boiling; then remove it from the fire and strain it through a fine sieve. When cold place it in a freezer and stir until well frozen. Repack the freezer with ice and let the ice cream remain well covered until frozen. Vanilla and Chocolate Ice-Cream. Make some white vanilla and some chocolate cream, separately, but make them both of the same consistency. Brush a mould lightly over with oil, rest it slantingly on the ice and pour in a small quantity of the vanilla cream. When that is frozen alter the position of the mould and pour in some of the chocolate cream. When this is frozen proceed as before until the mould is full, changing the position of the mould each time — sometimes leaning to one side and again to another in regular intervals. Then pack the mould in pounded ice for two hours, or till wanted; dip the mould into warm water, turn the contents onto a raised dish, and serve. Vanilla and Strawberry Ice-Cream. Pour one and one-half pints of thick cream into a saucepan with a pod of vanilla and boil it. Put one-fourth pound of sugar into a saucepan with the yolks of six and beat them together; then pour in the boiled cream and stir it over the fire until thick, but do not allow it to boil or the eggs will curdle. When thick pass the mixture through a fine hair-sieve into a basin. Mix one pint of syrup at 35 degrees with one pint of strawberry puree, stirring well together; then pass it through a silk- sieve. Turn the vanilla cream into an ice-mould and the strawberry mixture into another, pack them both in pounded ice ami salt, and work the contents with a spatula until smooth and frozen. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit the center of an ice-mould and place it in perpendicularly, dividing the mould into two equal parts; fill one side with the vanilla ice and the other with the strawberry ice, remove the piece of card- board and pack the mould in ice and leave it for two hours. When ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, wipe it, turn the contents out onto a folded napkin, ami serve. Walnut Ice-Cream. Blanch and skin one-half pound of walnut kernels, place them in a mortar with a scant tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and pound them until quite smooth, 73- ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. adding by degrees one-half teacupful of milk. Turn the mixture onto a wire-sieve and rub it through with a wooden spoon, having a basin underneath to catch it. Mix three-fourths of a breakfast cupful of milk with the walnuts and one-half pound of fine sugar. Stir well, add one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of thick cream, turn the mixture into a freezer and work it well. When frozen, pile the cream on a glass dish, or in small glasses, and serve at once. Wine Ice-Cream. Put two breakfast cupfuls of cream into a saucepan with the yolks of five eggs, and prepare a custard. Pour it in a basin, let it get cold, add two wineglassfuls of white wine and sufficient syrup or sugar to sweeten, and freeze in a freezer. Stir in a little chopped preserved mixed fruits, turn the cream into a mould packed in ice, let it set, and turn it out on a cold dish for use. Ice Cups. Pack one dozen flat champagne glasses or small tumblers in a tub with pounded ice and salt around them; a little brine at the bottom of the tub is also advisable. Fill these glasses with any fruit syrup, such as raspberry, strawberry, or cherry, cover the tub with a cloth and leave for fifteen to twenty minutes, so that the syrup will be frozen about an eighth of an inch in thickness all round the sides of the glass. Pour out the unfrozen syrup and replace the glasses in the ice for a few minutes longer, in order to thoroughly set the inside of the syrup case; turn these ice cups out care- fully and fill the cavity with Curacoa ice cream, nut ice-cream, or any ice of a differ- ent color from the cups, and serve. Lemon Granite Ice. Mix one pint of filtered lemon-juice with three pints of syrup at twenty-eight degrees and freeze it into icicles in a freezing-pot. The granite should be served in small glasses. Orange Granite Ice. Remove the peels from six or eight oranges, cut them up into quarters, and take, out the inner pith and pips. Place them in a basin, and pour over three pints of syrup at 20 degrees (See Syrups), let them remain for two hours, remove and place them on a strainer to drain. Pass the syrup through a sieve into the freezer ( See Ices), and when frozen to icicles add the drained quarters of oranges and cover. Let it remain twenty minutes longer, then serve in glasses or cups. Caramel Mousse. Beat the yolks of nine eggs in a stewpan with a dozen tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, then pour in a pint and a half of milk and stir the mixture over a slow fire ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 733 till it thickens and is on the boiling point; remove it at once, for if it is allowed to boil the eggs will curdle; pass the cream through a fine hair-sieve into a basin, and stir until it has cooled. Put a half-pound of sugar into a small pan, and stir it over the fire until it has boiled to a dark brown. Stir in one teacupful of water with the caramel, and boil it a few minutes longer. Whip the cooled mixture over ice for about ten minutes, then gradually mix in the caramel and four teacupfuls of whipped cream. Pour the mixture into a dome-shaped mould, put a sheet of paper on the top, and close the lid; then pack it in pounded ice and salt. The mousse should be kept for at least one hour in the ice. Dip the mould in milk-warm water, wipe it, and turn the mousse out onto a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper that has been placed on a dish, garnish with small sponge-cakes decorated with dried cherries, and serve. Chestnut Mousse. With one-half pound of chestnut puree mix about six ounces of sugar flavored with vanilla, beat it well with a spoon until it is quite smooth, and then add three wine-glassfuls of sweetened whipped cream. Pour the preparation into a dome-shaped mould previously buried in salted ice, cover the mould, solder its joints with flour and water paste, and keep it in the ice for one hour. When ready to serve, dip the mould in hot water, wipe, and turn the mousse out on a folded napkin. Charlotte Mousse. Soften three cakes of chocolate. When soft work the chocolate to a paste with a little syrup flavored with vanilla; warm and add the white of one egg whipped and sweetened, and a pint and a half of whipped cream, flavored with vanilla sugar. Pack a quart mould in pounded and salted ice, fill, put a cover on, lay ice on the top of that and leave for an hour, then unmould onto a dish. Strawberry Mousse. Pick the stems from one pound of freshly-gathered ripe strawberries, pass the fruit through a fine hair-sieve into a preserving-pan, mix with it a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla sugar and set the pan on the fire, stirring constantly until the puree is well mixed. Move the pan from the fire, set it on pounded ice, and stir until the contents are cold. Mix a few tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar with one and one-half pints of cream, flavor with a little essence of vanilla, and whip it well. Mix the cream with the puree. Line a dome-shaped mould with white paper, fill it with the above mixture, place a round of paper on the top, and place the lid on the mould, solder the open- ings with butter, and pack the mould in pounded ice. When ready to serve, dip the mould in cold water, wipe it, and turn the contents onto a folded napkin laid on a dish. 734 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. Mousse with Coffee. Put four ounces of coffee into a small saucepan, pour over a little more than one teacupful of water, and add to this one ounce of sugar, and boil. Mix in slowly the yolks of two eggs, allow the mixture to become cold, strain it, and add two breakfast cupfuls of well-whipped cream. Pour the mixture into a glass, and serve. Parfait with Chocolate. Put a quarter of a pound of chocolate into a saucepan with a little water, and stir until dissolved. Prepare a custard with a pint of milk, ten eggs, and sugar to taste, mix the chocolate with this, and pass the whole through a silk-sieve, then place the mixture over ice, and work in with it a small quantity of cream and syrup. When smooth, pack it in ice for two hours. Alexandria Iced Pudding. Place two breakfast cupfuls of milk or cream in a saucepan with the yolks of four eggs and sugar to the taste, and stir them into a custard; next turn this custard into a basin, and when it becomes cold, mix in four ounces of ratafia cakes, broken in pieces, and rubbed through a sieve, and flavor with two or three drops of extract of bitter almonds; pack the basin in ice, and freeze until the mixture has been reduced to the freezing-point. Place a layer of this iced mixture at the bottom of a mould, and on top of this arrange a few strawberries preserved whole, and from which the syrup has been thoroughly drained, having dipped them, one at a time, into lemonjuice. Con- tinue to put in layers, as above, until all the ingredients are used, then return the mould to the ice, and let it remain there for a couple of hours, turn the pudding out onto a dish, and serve. Iced Cabinet Pudding. Cut in slices of moderate thickness some sponge-cakes, also some preserved pineapple, ginger, apricots and pears, all in equal quantities. Fill a plain pudding- mould with alternate layers of the above ingredients, strewing between each layer a few raisins and currants, pour over these ingredients a sufficient quantity of wine to moisten the cake, and leave them for an hour. Soak one ounce of gelatine in cold water, then strain it into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of four eggs, four ounces of sugar, three ounces of grated chocolate, and one and one-half pints of milk ; stand the basin in a bain-marie, and stir the mixture until thickened. Pour the hot custard over the contents of the mould, and cover it securely. When the con- tents are cool, bury it in pounded ice and salt for sewn or eight hours. Afterward dip the mould into tepid water, quickly remove it, wipe it, turn the pudding out onto a fancy dish, garnish with croutons of red currant jelly, and serve. ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 735 Frozen Fig Pudding. Put into a saucepan four tablespoonfuls of sugar without any water over a mod- erate fire, and melt it until it becomes like molasses; add one teacupful of water, and boil up until the sugar is all dissolved. Put into a basin one quart of milk and four- teen ounces of sugar and the yolks of eight eggs; strain the caramel or boiled sugar into it, and put all into a freezer. Chop up fine one pound of dried figs to about the size of sultana raisins, and add them also, when they are well mixed in, add the pudding frozen a little, put it into a mould, and pack the mould in pounded ice and salt for two hours or so, or until stiff and set. Turn it out onto a cold dish, and serve. A teacupful of curacoa instead of the water mav be added to the melted sugar, if preferred. Iced Pudding. Prepare a custard with one pint of cream, the yolks of twelve eggs, and twelve ounces of crushed loaf sugar. Mix in one wine-glassful of maraschino cordial, freeze until quite stiff, add one and one-half ounce each of preserved dried cherries, pears, pine-apples and citron, all cut into very small pieces, and one tablespoonful of vanilla extract ; stir well and freeze again ; have ready a melon-shaped mould packed in ice and salt, fill it with the mixture, cover it over, pack more ice on top, and let it re- main for two hours. Turn the pudding out onto a dish, cover it with a mixture of the whites of half a dozen eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and lightly mixed in with six ounces of finely-powdered loaf sugar, sprinkle over a few pistachios chopped fine, and serve at once. Nesselrode Pudding. Peel the outer skins of about forty chestnuts and boil them in water for about thirty minutes; take them out, remove the inner skin and then pound them to a paste, adding one pinch of salt during the pounding. Pass this paste through a sieve, moistening it with a little cream. Have in readiness one pint of boiled custard and add it to the chestnut-paste. Place the whole in the freezer, and when it is firm, beat one breakfast cupful of cream to a froth and work it in; freeze again and add two ounces each of raisins, citron-peel and stewed or candied pineapple, one teaspooil- ful of vanilla extract and one teacupful of maraschino. Work them well and freeze again, then place the pudding in a dome-shaped mould, set it on the ice, and when wanted, turn it out and decorate with angelica points and half cherries, garnishing round the dish with crystallized apricots or green-. i Iced Nut Pudding. Planch about four dozen fresh nuts of any kind, pound half of them with a few blanched sweet almonds and put the paste into a saucepan with one and one-half 73 6 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. pints of hot vanilla cream. Stir well over the fire until the mixture is thick, then let it cool and pass it through a fine sieve into a basin; pour a little of it at the bottom of a dome-shaped mould packed in salted ice, sprinkle over a few of the remaining nuts cut in halves and repeat till the mould is full. Lay a round of paper on the top, then the lid of the mould, cementing it round with paste of flour, cover the mould with ice and let it remain for one hour. Iced Plum Pudding. Boil together half a pint of cream with the thinly-shredded rind of half a lemon and a small piece of citron. Place in a basin the yolks of four eggs with four ounces of caster-sugar and beat well, then pour in the boiling cream a little at a time; stand the basin in a bain-marie and stir continually until it begins to thicken, then take it out and mix in a teacupful of very dark caramel. When nearly cool, turn it into a freezing-mould and leave it there until it has about the stiffness of snow. Then blanch and chop an ounce of sweet almonds or pistachio nuts, shred one ounce of candied orange-peel and candied pineapples fine and chop one ounce each of candied cherries and sultanas; place all of these in a basin, pour half a wineglassful of brandy and a similar amount of curacoa and soak for an hour or two. Whisk half a pint of cream and one white of egg to a stiff froth, add the fruit mixture and whipped cream to the frozen mixture and let it remain in the freezer a short time longer. Then pack it in a mould, close tightly and bury it in ice. Make a sauce as follows: Rub the yellow rinds of one orange and one lemon with two or three lumps of sugar, place in a basin and squeeze in the juice of the fruit; add one and a half wineglassiuls of clarified syrup and a wineglassful each of wine and brandy. Work in the freezer until about half frozen, then turn the pudding onto a fancy dish, pile the frozen sauce around it, and serve. Punch in Surprise. Have six different fancy moulds, resembling in shape an apple, pear, banana, tomato, pineapple and peach. Fill a tin pan with ice well mixed with rock salt, lay on it the six moulds, opened flat, fill them with cold water, also the pan to half its height, and let them remain for half an hour, feeling the interiors of the mould to ascertain whether a crust adheres to them. Have in readiness any kind of punch; take up each mould separately, empty out the water, fill one after another witli the punch, close tightly, and lay them in a pail previously prepared with broken ice and rock salt at the bottom; cover with a liberal allowance of extra ice and salt, and let them freeze for an hour. Have ready a cold dish with a folded napkin over it; pour some warm water into a vessel, take up each mould separately, dip it into the water and quickly wash off any ice or salt that may adhere; turn them out carefully, place them on a dish and send to the table. ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. Kirsch Punch. 737 Put in a dish one-fourth pound of powdered sugar with one pint of cold water, grate in the rind of a small lemon, squeezing in the juice of one and one-half good- sized ones, and beat well together with the spatula for five minutes; add one gill of kirsch, mix a little more, and strain through a sieve into a freezer. Place the lid on and lay it in an ice-tub, filling the freezer all around with broken ice mixed slightly with rock salt, and turn the handle as briskly as possible for two minutes. Lift up the lid and with a wooden spoon detach the punch from the sides and bottom of the freezer. Re-cover it and turn the handle briskly for three minutes more; un- cover again and detach the punch the same as before, being careful that no ice or salt drops in. Put the lid on and repeat the same operation three times more. When ready, serve in half a dozen small punch glass Maraschino Punch. Put one pound of sugar in a basin with one quart of water and add the juice of a lemon and an orange and one breakfast cupful of maraschino. When it is well mixed strain it into a freezer again, when it will be ready for use. Roman Punch. Pour into a freezing-pot one quart of peach water-ice, a bottle of dry champagne, two wineglassfuls of noyau, and the strained juice of four oranges. Color it a delicate pink with a tew drops of cochineal, and flavor with essence of vanilla. Work the mixture until almost frozen, then add gradually the whites of three eggs made into Italian meringue; work all together quickly until smooth, and then serve. Strawberry Punch. Pick the stems from one quart of freshly-gathered ripe strawberries, put the fruit into a deep dish, cover them with two and one-half breakfast cupfuls of sugar, and leave till a thick syrup has formed. Pass the strawberries and syrup through a fine hair-sieve into a freezer and mix with them one tcacupful of sweet wine and one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of water; stir until mixed, and leave until frozen. Serve the punch in small glasses. American Sherbet. Secure some tin moulds to imitate high-shaped wineglasses, fill them with pure cold water, close them securelv, and pack them in pounded ice. In the meantime mix in equal quantities some fruit syrup, wine and orange or lemon juice; almost any 73 8 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. kind of fruit syrup may be used. Pour the mixture into a freezing-pot and work it well until frozen. The sherbet must not be frozen too firmly, yet it must be consist- ent enough to be piled up in pyramids in the ice glasses. When the water has frozen enough to take the form of the moulds, turn it out carefully, drain out any liquid that has not frozen, and fill up the ice glasses with the frozen syrup, piling it up high. Stand the glasses on a fancy dish and pass them round. If desired, the water may be colored before being frozen in the moulds, and a different color may be used in almost every mould; this will have a very pretty effect when served. Carnot Sherbet. Have in readiness an orange water ice, in which mix a little carmine, kirsch and orange- (lower water. It should be dressed in a small nest with a little bird perched on its edge; the bird, the inside and the bottom should be made of gum paste, and the outside of the nest should be imitated with spun sugar and the grass with fillets of angelica. It should be served immediately on its completion. White-Cherry Sherbet. Remove the stems and stones from four breakfast cupfuls of large ripe white cherries, put them in a mortar, pound thoroughly so as to break the stones, and strain the juice into a freezer. Put the pulp into a saucepan with one teacupful of sugar and one breakfast cupful of water, and boil for a few minutes, in order to extract the flavor from the kernels, pass the mixture through a sieve into another saucepan and add one breakfast cupful of water and sugar. Boil for a minute or two, let the mix- ture cool, pour it into the freezer with the juice, add the whites of two eggs whipped to a froth, and the sherbet is then ready for use. A lew whole cherries which have been cooked in syrup may be added to the mixture while it is still in the freezer. Cream Sherbet. Thoroughly beat one ounce of caster-sugar into one pint of cream and the whites of six eggs previously beaten to a stiff froth. Dissolve one more ounce of caster- sugar in three quarts of water and pour this upon four lemons sliced thin; mix thoroughly with the other, strain, and put it into a freezer until ready for serving. Kirsch Sherbet. Mix one quart of syrup at 35 degrees with the same quantity of chablis, and pass it through a silk sieve into a freezer. Peat well with a spoon, and when well tl add one-half teacupful of kirsch. mix again, put into the glasses, ami serve. ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 739 Lemon Sherbet. Pare one lemon thin, and squeeze in the rind of two, taking care to keep back the pips. Mix with it four tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar and one breakfast cupful of water. When the sugar has dissolved pour in two breakfast cupfuls of water. Strain and use. It may be iced or not, as desired. Orange Sherbet. Put a tablespoonful of gelatine in a little cold water to soak, and then pour over one breakfast cupful of boiling water to dissolve it. Turn it into a basin with the juice of ten large oranges, and add two breakfast cupfuls of sugar, and three of water. Mix well and when <]uitc cold it is ready for use. The juice of a lemon may be added if the oranges are too sweet. Pineapple Sherbet. Soak a tablespoonful of gelatine in a couple of tablespoonfuls of cold water for two hours; peel a large pineapple, cut out the eyes and discolored parts and chop fine, mixing with it two breakfast cupfuls of caster-sugar. Dissolve the soaked gelatine in half a pint of boiling water, then stir this and half a pint of cold water in with the pineapple; pour the whole preparation into a freezer and freeze. When done, the sherbet should be white and creamy, Strawberry Sherbet. Remove the stems from one pound or so of strawberries, mash the fruit, mix with it the juice of a lemon, one tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and three pints of water. In the course of four hours' time strain the juice off the strawberries into another basin, pressing them to extract as much juice as possible. Mix with the juice one pound of double-refined sugar, and stir it until the sugar has dissolved; then strain it and pack it in ice for an hour. Sherbet, Waldorf Style. Put two pounds of sugar and one quart of water into a saucepan and boil it to a syrup. Tut four ounces of stoned raisins into a basin with five ounces of chopped figs, half a dozen cloves, and a small piece of cinnamon. Pour the syrup over the above ingredients, and leave it till cool. Strain and color the syrup a delicate pink with a little prepared cochineal, add the juice of six oranges, two lemons and a small quantity of cinnamon, three or four cloves and one <]uart of port wine. Turn the mixture into the freezer and freeze it. When frozen take the cloves and cinnamon 740 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. out of the mixture, add the scalded raisins and figs, one-half pound of muscatel grapes, and one-fourth pound of blanched almonds. When well incorporated the sherbet is ready for use. Sherbets with Champagne. Mix one-fourth pint of champagne with one pint of syrup, and add the juice of one lemon and two sweet oranges, also the thinlv-peeled rind of the lemon. In a quarter of an hour strain the mixture through a fine hair-sieve and give it eighteen degrees at the syrup scale (see Sugar Boiling). Turn the sherbet into a freezer, and work it with a spatula until set; then mix with it by degrees one-fourth pint more of champagne that has been stirred in with a little syrup. Serve the sherbet in ice glasses. Souffle Ices. Pour one pint of syrup, at thirty-two degrees, in a basin, and stir into it the volks of fifteen or eighteen eggs; strain this into a copper egg-bowl made a little warm bv pouring hot water into it and wiping dry afterward; add to this one breakfast cupful of maraschino, the same quantity of filtered strawberry-juice and one pinch of salt. Whisk lightly but briskly, with the bowl standing about six inches deep in very hot water, and when like creamy batter remove it from the hot water and continue to whisk for about ten minutes longer. Place a souffle case in ice, stir in three-fourths of a pint of whipped cream to the mixture, and pour the whole into the case. Place a wide strip of cartridge-paper round the cise and about one and one-half inches above it, so as to give the souffle plenty of room to rise like an ordinary souffle. When set and firm turn it onto a cold dish, sprinkle with finely-powdered and brown- baked Savoy biscuits, and serve. Vanilla and Chocolate Souffle, Iced. Put the yolks of sixteen eggs in a basin with one teacupful of clarified syrup and one breakfast cupful of water; beat together, then pass it through a fine hair-sieve. Turn the mixture into a saucepan and stir it over a slow fire until it forms a thick custard, but do not allow it to boil. Pour some boiling water in a bowl to warm it, then turn it out; pour the custard into the bowl, stir in one teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring and whip it for several minutes; then stir in one pint of whipped cream and pour all into a souffle-mould. Pack it in ice for two hours, put a layer of chocolate on top that has been melted in iced water, and leave for two hours longer. Serve the souffle in the mould. Souffle Ice-Cream with Brandy. Mix one-fourth pint of brandy with two whites of Italian meringues and add one pint of the very best cream and three ounces of ginger comfits. Stir these well ICE-CRKAMS AND ICES. 74i together, put them into a mould embedded in finely-pounded ice mixed with salt and saltpeter, and let it freeze. When quite firm, turn it out of the mould, and serve. Souffle Ice-Cream with Maraschino. Mix one teacupful of maraschino with two whites of Italian meringues when they are quite cold. Add one pint of well-whipped cream, and the kernels of eighteen walnuts (the walnuts should be picked before they are quite ripe, and the skins removed from the kernels). See that they are thoroughly incorporated with the other ingredients, and then pour the preparation into a mould, which should be mixed with salt and saltpeter and packed in well-pounded ice. When frozen, turn out, and serve. Souffle Ice-Cream with Meringue. With the yolks of six eggs, one and one-half teacupfuls of pineapple syrup and a stick of vanilla, make a custard. Mix this with two whites of Italian meringue and one-half teacupful of noyau or maraschino, and then stir in thoroughly one pint of well-whipped cream, and finally two ounces of chocolate pastilles, and one-fourth of a pound of pineapple cut up very small. When well mixed together pour into a mould and place on the ice to freeze. When firm, turn it out, and serve. Souffle Ice-Cream with Vanilla. Take two whites of Italian meringue, and when they are cold mix them with one ounce of vanilla sugar, and a pint of thoroughly whipped cream. Place a mould on the ice and pour in the mixture; then cover the mould and place it in pounded ice mixed with salt. \\ hen hard, turn out, and serve. Tutti Frutti. This is the Italian for all sorts and kinds of fruit. The name is applied to a great variety of fruit dishes, ices, etc., as will be seen by the following recipes: Line the interior of a three-pint lemon-shaped mould with one pint of vanilla cream. Cut four ounces of candied apricots into small pieces, also four ounces of candied cherries into halves. Mix these well together. Spread half the quantity of the fruits evenly round the cream in the mould and pour one pint of raspberry water ice all round the fruits. Arrange the balance of the fruits round the water ice and fill the mould with one pint of pistachio cream ice. Cover the mould tightly, place it in a pail with a layer of broken ice and rock-salt at the bottom; fill up to the top with the same and put it into a freezer. Freeze for an hour and a half. Turn out the tutti frutti on a glass stand and serve with the following sauce: Put in a basin one pint of whipped cream with two ounces of sugar and one gill of maraschino. Peat the whole well together for two minutes. Pour it over the tutti frutti, and immediately send it to the table. 74 2 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. Apple Water Ice. Peel and core the required number of apples, cut them into quarters and place in a saucepan; set the pan over a fire and cook until tender. Pass them through a very fine sieve over a basin, rubbing as much through as possible and mix with water highly flavored with lemon. Pack the basin in ice, and when the mixture is frozen it is ready for use. Apricot Water Ice. Stew for a few minutes some well-chopped apricots and the peeled kernels of half that quantity in a little sugar and water. Rub the fruit with the back of a spoon through a strainer into the freezer and mix in the syrup. Freeze, and when it is nearly set, whip the whites of two or three eggs to a froth, mix them in and turn the freezer rapidly a short time longer. Cut up a few very ripe apricots and stir them into the ice before serving. Canned apricots may be used if fresh ones are not avail- able, and if preserved in syrup that will answer for mixing with them, or the liquor can be made into a syrup by boiling it with a proper proportion of sugar. Red Cherry Water Ice. Wash one quart of sweet red or black cherries, pound them so as to break the stones, and pass the juice through a strainer into a freezer. Boil the cherry-pulp with some of the sugar and water, in order to extract the flavor from the kernels, and pass that also through the strainer. Add the other pint of water and the remainder of the sugar to the amount of three-quarters of a pound and freeze. Do not use the whites of eggs in this ice, as the color is not good unless frozen naturally. This makes a nice ice for the third color in a Neapolitan. Lemon Water Ice. Rub off the peels of six lemons onto one-half pound of loaf sugar, place it in a basin, and strain the juice of the lemons over; with this prepare a syrup, using four or five breakfast cupfuls of water and another pound of sugar. Strain, and then add the whites of four eggs, well-beaten together, with one ounce of powdered sugar. Place it in the freezer, and work as required. Madeira Water Ice. (irate the peel of two lemons into a basin, strain in the juice, mix in one and one-half pints of Madeira wine and one-half pint of syrup. Stir well, and then turn it into a freezer, pack it in pounded ice and salt, and work vigorouslv until frozen. When sufficiently so, put the mixture into a mould, close, and pack it in pounded ice ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 743 and salt for two hours. Before serving dip the mould in warm water, wipe it, then turn the contents carefully out onto a fancy china or glass dish. Melon Water Ice. Pound eight ounces of ripe melon in a mortar and add two ounces of orange- flower water, the juice of two lemons, one breakfast cupful of water and a pint of clarified sugar. Stir the mixture thoroughly and strain through a fine sieve, put in a freezer, and it is ready for use. Orange Water Ice. Put the juice of four oranges and the grated rinds of three into a basin with one breakfast cupful of water, add the juice of three lemons and one pint of syrup, stir well, then pass it through a fine sieve into a mould, pack it in ice, freeze (see Ices), and when quite set turn it out onto a dish, and serve. Peach Water Ice. Slice ten ripe peaches but do not peel them, boil till soft in one-half pint of water, then rub them through a fine hair-sieve. Mix with the pulp one pint of syrup, the strained juice of one lemon, three or four drops of oil of almonds, and color it with a little carmine or cochineal. Put the preparation in the freezer, turn it till frozen, then fill a plain mould with it, put the lid on and pack it in ice. When ready to serve, turn the contents of the mould onto a fancy dish. Pear Water Ice. Peel a few ripe pears and grate them into a basin; mix with them eight ounces of powdered sugar, the strained juice of two oranges and one lemon, a little of the peel and two tablespoonfuls of vanilla sugar. Leave it for half an hour, then p.i^s the preparation through a fine hair-sieve, mix a little cold water with it and freeze it in the ice box. When firm take the ice up with a large spoon and pile it like a pyramid on a folded napkin. Put some little fancy cakes round the dish, and serve. Pineapple Water Ice. Cut into halves a rather small pineapple, reserving one-half for future use; pare the other half neatly] cut it into small pieces and plan- them in a mortar, pounding them thoroughly to a pulp, say for about ten minutes. Then add half a pound of powdered sugar and again pound for five minutes, place the whole of this mixture in ■ I, squeeze in the juice of three lemons, pour in a quart of cold water, mix thoroughlv with a spatula for two minutes, and strain through a fine hair-sieve into 744 ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. the freezer, adding the whites of a couple of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and beat well for a minute or so longer, and freeze. Pistachio Water Ice. Place six ounces of blanched pistachios in a mortar and pound them to a pulp, adding a little water to prevent them from oiling, turn this preparation out into a basin, and mix in with it one pint of lemon water ice, passing all through a fine hair- sieve into a freezer, then turn out into a mould well packed in ice, and when it has become thoroughly frozen and set, it is ready for use. Raspberry Water Ice. Place in a basin one-half pound of powdered sugar, squeeze in the juice of three lemons, and add one pint of picked and well-cleaned raspberries. Beat briskly with a spatula for five minutes, add one quart of cold water, mixing again for a minute or two, and strain through a sieve into the freezer. Put on the lid and lay the freezer in an ice-tub, filling it all round with broken ice, mixed with a small quantity of rock salt. Turn the handle on the cover as rapidly as possible for three minutes. Raise the lid, and with a spoon detach the cream from all round the freezer and the bottom also. Remove it, and turn the handle again sharply for three minutes more. Un- cover and detach the cream as before, taking care that no salt or ice drops in it. Place the lid on, and repeat the operation three times more. By this time the cream should be quite firm, turn it out onto a cold dish, over which has been spread a napkin, and serve. Strawberry Water Ice. Pick one and one-half pounds of strawberries, put them into a basin with a little sifted crushed loaf sugar and the juice of a lemon, pass the whole through a fine hair-sieve into another basin, stir in three teacupfuls of syrup and a few drops of cochineal to color, turn the preparation into the freezer, work it thoroughly, and it is then ready for use. Vanilla Water Ice. Pound sufficient vanilla beans in a mortar to flavor one quart of water. Pour that quantity of water into a saucepan with the pounded vanilla and one-half pound of loaf sugar. Boil the ingredients together, then strain the mixture through a fine hair- sieve; squeeze in the juice of one lemon, put it in the freezing-pot, and freeze. Pastry. Almonds. The kernel of the almond nut is largely used in cooking and confectionery for its delicate flavor. There are two kinds, sweet and bitter, so closely resembling each other in appearance as to be almost indistinguishable, excepting by the taste. The sweet variety are harmless, but the bitter almonds contain or generate bv fermenta- tion, prussic acid, rendering them extremely dangerous to use without much discre- tion. A hundred grains of bitter almond pulp are said to contain two drops of the oil, and from fifteen to thirty drops of the oil arc sufficient to cause death. The skins of both kinds are very indigestible, and have been known, even when eaten in small quantities, to induce attacks of nettle-rash. For this reason almonds should invariably be skinned or blanched before using. The best almonds are the Jordan, imported chiefly from Malaga, and preferred for dessert. They are of two kinds; the one above one inch in length, flat with a clean brown skin, sweet, mucilaginous, and rather tough; the other more plump, pointed at one end, brittle, but quite as sweet as the former. Valencia almonds are reckoned of the second quality; they arc cheaper, and consequently are more used. They are under one inch long, round at one end, and bluntly pointed at the other, flat and of a dingy-brown color, and have a dusty skin. Barbary and Italian almonds are smaller and less flattened. Spanish almonds are of mediocre quality, and are usually imported in baskets. When fresh, either kind may be used; but cooks strongly recommend not to buy kernels of any kind if they are dry, broken, worm- eaten, or smell in the least degree rancid. To Blanch Almonds: The almonds should be thrown into a pan of boiling water, and allowed to remain over the fire until the skins will slip off readily when rubbed between the finger and thumb. It is well then to drain them off, and to plunge them into cold water for a minute or two, when they may be drained again, and the skins rubbed off with a cloth. As they are blanched, throw them into cold water, witli a little salt in it; leave them for a couple of hours, then take them out and dry them. They are easily split with a knife, or may be cut lengthwise into long shreds, accord- the purpose for which they are required. To Color Almonds: Whether the almonds are whole, shredded or chopped, it is only necessary to rub them together with the coloring matter until they arc saturated; they should then be dried in a screen. To Pound Almonds: It is better after blanching to let them soak for an hour or so in cold water, which will prevent them in a measure from "oiling." A few drops 745 74 6 PASTRY. of water, orange-flower water, or lemon-juice, should be added now and then for the same purpose, as the pounding proceeds. When reduced to a softish pulp, they are ready for use. Almond Croquettes. Take an equal quantity each of flour, almonds and sugar, the zest of two or three oranges rasped on lumps of sugar, two or three whole eggs, and an extra yolk or so. Scald the almonds and remove their skins, afterwards soaking for two hours in cold salt and water. Pound them thoroughly in a mortar, with a few drops of orange- water added to prevent oiling, until reduced to a pulp; then mix in the remainder of the ingredients by pounding all together. Knead the paste with a little flour on a slab, roll it with a bit of flat-board into the shape of a straight rolling-pin, lay this on a greased baking-board, and cover it over, baking in a moderate heat until done, then while hot, cut it up into slices, and dry on a baking-sheet in a very slow oven. After they are dried, moisten their edges with royal icing, dip them in finely-chopped pistachio kernels, and dry them for a few minutes. Baba. Sift four pounds of dried flour onto a marble or slate slab, put a quarter of it into a basin, and pour in the center one ounce of German yeast dissolved in a tcacupful of warm water. Mix well with the fingers, adding a little more water if required to make a stiff paste. Roll into the shape of a ball, and again place in the basin, score it on top in the form of a cross, set in a warm place, and let the dough rise for about ten minutes, or until it is quite light. Make a cavity in the center of the three pounds of flour, adding two and a half pounds of butter, slightly warmed, half an ounce of salt and half a tcacupful of water, together with fifteen eggs. Work the eggs and butter well together, then mix the whole into a paste, keeping it rather soft. In a few min- utes, add six more eggs singly, and work lightly with the hand for ten minutes, sprinkling a tcaspoonful of powdered saffron over the dough, and mixing it in. Put four ounces of Smyrna and eight ounces of Malaga raisins, together with four ounces of cleaned currants, and a small quantity of mixed candied peels cut into thin slices into a basin, pour over a breakfast cupful of Madeira wine and three wineglassfuls of brand}- or rum, whichever may be preferred, and let these ingredients soak for a few minutes. Then mix them all in with the paste, using the hand lightly, and allow it to stand for a few minutes. Put a strip of paper about three inches above the rim of a well-buttered mould, pour in the mixture to about three-quarters the height of the mould, and set it in a warm place, and when the paste has risen to the top of the mould, place in a slack oven and bake until done, say about three hours. Turn out carefully onto a sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Care should be taken not to have the paste too thin, or the fruit will tall to the bottom of the cake, and the effect will be lost. As the fruit in some takes has a tendency to stick to the mould when PASTRY. 747 cooked, the latter may be masked with a coating of plain paste before placing the mixture in it. Baba with Madeira. Prepare a baba cake as described in the foregoing, but do not glaze it. Slit the cake into halves and remove the top piece. Pour a little cold water into a clean pan, adding a little sugar and lemon, and place it on the stove, boiling well for three min- utes; then remove and at once add a gill or so of good sherry wine and half that quantity of curacoa. Lay the top part of the cake in a flat-bottomed vessel — a wire basket is recommended, to avoid breaking it, as it can be carefully lowered into the pan. Pour the prepared sauce gradually over it, and let it stand for a couple of min- utes, then replace carefully on top of the other half of the cake. Arrange tastefully on a dessert-dish, garnish with candied cherries, the border being decorated with candied pineapple. Baba with Vanilla Cream Sauce. Prepare a baba cake as previously described, and when remoyed from the mould and laid on a dish, cut it into six equal parts. Take a small quantity of apricot mar- malade, taking one piece of the cake in the hand and cover the sides where cut with the marmalade, spreading it smoothly with a knife. Then arrange the six pieces to- gether on a dish, giving them the same form as before. Serve with vanilla cream sauce. Almond Biscuits. Blanch and pound an equal quantity of bitter and sweet almonds, adding a few drops of orange-water to prevent them from oiling. Peat the yolks of some eggs in a little powdered sugar, add the almond pulp and sufficient flour to form a stiff paste, and roll out to one-quarter of an inch in thickness. Cut into shapes with a pastry- cutter or the rim of a wineglass, and bake on a greased baking-sheet until a light brown. Almond Sponge Biscuits. Crack a dozen eggs separately into a teacup, pour them all into a large kitchen- basin, and beat with a whisk until thoroughly mixed; then add l>v degrees a pound and two ounces of sugar, and beat until it is quite dissolved. Then add a pound and three ounces of fine pastry-flour, and work into a light dough. Have ready sufficient small moulds, warm them and butter the inner surfaces neatly. Fill level to the rims with the dough, dust over the top with powdered sugar, lay them over some blanched chopped almonds, and bake in a moderate oven. Champagne Biscuits. Mix the desired quantity of flour with some caraway seeds, beat up a dozen eggs to each two pounds of Hour used and add gradually powdered sugar while beating 74 8 PASTRY. until a thick paste is formed; warm some butter and beat it to a cream, so that when the sugar and eggs arc well thickened this butter may be worked into them, and add gradually some finely-sifted flour and some more of the caraway seeds. Lay the biscuits on a greased paper which has been crinkled and set them with the papers into small tin moulds, and bake in a hot oven. Chocolate Biscuit. Put the yolks of eight eggs in a basin with half a pound of caster-sugar, mix in six ounces of flour and beat until the batter is quite smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a light froth and stir with the foregoing and season the mixture with a few drops of vanilla. Put an ounce and a half of chocolate in a saucepan on the fire and when dissolved put in three tablespoonfuls of sugar and stir until thick. Dip the cold biscuit in the chocolate and lay on a dish. Cream Biscuits. Put one-half pound of flour in a basin, form a hollow in the center and work in the whites of three eggs, one-half teacup ful of cream, one ounce of sugar, one wine- glassful of brandy and a small quantity of salt. When it is quite smooth roll out the paste very thin, cut it into rounds with a cutter two inches in diameter, prick them all over with a fork, put them on a floured baking-sheet and bake in a hot oven until done. Turn them out, let them get cold, and use as desired. Orange Biscuits. Put eight ounces of butter into a basin, warm and work it to a cream, adding the same quantity of orange sugar. Chop into thin slices three ounces of candied orange peel, mix it in, and add gradually four ounces of dried flour and the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them in, pour the mixture into well-buttered moulds, sprinkle over a little powdered sugar and bake in a slow oven for five or six minutes. Turn them out when done, let them get cold, and they are ready for use. Pistachio Biscuit. Have ready two basins and put the whites of a dozen eggs in one and the yolks in the other; mix with the yolks a pound of sugar, four ounces of blanched pista- chios powdered to a pulp, adding a little white of c^ to prevent them from oiling. The whites should then be whisked to a froth and turned into the basin with the yolks and pistachios, sifting in about six ounces of dried flour and the rasped rinds of a couple of lemons. Stir gently, and pour the mixture into moulds or paper sprinkle well with caster-sugar, place in a moderate oven and bake. When done, allow them to get cold and they are read}- for use. PASTRY. 749 Raspberry Biscuits. Put one pound of sifted, crushed loaf sugar into a basin with an equal weight of blanched and pounded sweet almonds, add a small quantity of grated lemon-rind, and sufficient yolk of egg to form a stiff paste. Roll half of this out very thin, cover it with a layer of raspberry jam, place the balance of the paste on the top, and allow it to stand for a day. Cover the top with royal icing, cut up into strips about three inches long by one inch in width, place them on a baking-sheet on a moderate oven, and bake until done. Take them out and serve them when cold. Vanilla Biscuits. Beat the yolks of half a dozen eggs with one-half pound of finely-powdered sugar and a small quantity of grated lemon-peel. Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth and stir them lightly in with the beaten yolks; dredge in one-half pound of flour, and flavor with a little essence of vanilla, and then work it until quite smooth. Lav the mixture out in rounds on foolscap paper, using a biscuit-forcer for the purpose; dust them over with vanilla sugar, and bake in a quick oven. When cooked, take the biscuits and join them together in pairs. Walnut-and-Jam Biscuits. Pound fifty walnuts in their skins, and pass them through a fine wire-sieve. Slightl) warm one-fourth pound of butter, and beat it until creamy, together with one- half pound of sugar, then beat in the yolks of two eggs, and one whole one, and one wineglassful of rum. Put one-fourth pound of flour into a basin, and add the beaten mixture, stirring it until quite smooth. If too thin, more flour may be added to the paste, but it should not be too stiff. Butter a shallow baking-tin, spread the paste- over it, bake in a moderate oven, and when done, spread a layer of any kind of jam over it; then put it in the oven again for six or seven minutes. Beat the whites of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and a small quantity of ground cinnamon to a firm froth, then mix with them the powdered walnuts. Spread the walnut mixture over the top of the cake, and leave it in the oven until lightly browned. When cooked, leave the cake until cold; then cut it into squares or diamond-shaped pieces, and pack them away in biscuit tins, placing a sheet of white paper between each layer. They will keep for some time. Wine Finger Biscuits. Warm two ounces of butter, and beat it to a cream, with two tablespoonfuls of caster-sugar and one tablcspoonful of orange-sugar; add one wineglassful of Madeira wine and a little salt, then stir eight ounces of flour in the mixture, and work till smooth. Dust some flour over the table, and roll the paste out very thin; cut it into 750 PASTRY. long thin fingers, which prick all over with a fork. Dust some flour over a baking- sheet, arrange the biscuits on it, and bake in a moderately brisk oven. Serve on a glass dish. The biscuits should be kept perfectly dry in baking-tins. Brandy Snaps. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into each pound of flour used, a half pound of moist sugar, a couple of ounces of ginger, a dessertspoonful of allspice, the grated peel of half a lemon, and the juice of a whole lemon, also beat in half a pound ot molasses. Spread this paste thinly over some buttered baking-sheets, and bake lightly in a moderate oven. When cooked, cut into squares, and serve. Almond Cakes. Take some Valencia almonds, and put them in a large basin with an equal quan- titv of sugar, a little essence of lemon and mixed spice. Mix with a wooden spoon, together with the yolks of fifteen eggs to every pound of the almonds used, then stir in the whites of the eggs whipped till quite stiff, and lastly, work in thoroughly a little sifted pastry flour. Have ready a sufficient number of buttered fancy moulds, and bake until a light brown in a moderately quick oven. American White Cake. Work a couple of ounces of butter into a cream, beat up the whites of half a dozen eggs in half a pint of milk, adding a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and half a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, mixing the butter with the flour, and rubbing it in thoroughly, then make into a dough with the milk and eggs. Butter a square cake-tin, and pour in the mixture, baking in a quick oven for an hour. Then brush over the top with the white of eggs, and sift caster-sugar over it, replacing in the oven for two or three minutes. Apricot Cakes. Roll out a piece of puff-paste or trimmings, and spread over a baking-sheet, first winding it on a rolling-pin and then unwinding. Spread some apricot marmalade evenly all over the paste. Then cut some of the rolled paste into thin narrow strips and roll it like a cord. Arrange these Strips over the marmalade, finishing off the ends and soldering to the edge of the paste by moistening with water. Lav icing- sugar along the bars in some fancy designs and bake in a moderately hot oven. When done, cut into oblong pieces, say two by three inches and pile one upon another on a dish decorated with almonds cut into various shapes and colored. PASTRY. 751 Bride Cakes. Beat some warmed butter to a cream, with sugar; then beat a dozen or s< two at a time, and when all are in the batter, whisk for nearly an hour and stir in gradually a pound of sifted-flour, add a pound and a half each of raisins and currants, both chopped, quarter of a pound of pounded almonds, half a pound of candied peel minced very fine, and the grated rinds of an orange and a lemon, together with a gill of brandy. Pour this mixture into a tin lined with buttered-paper and bake until quite done. Turn upside down until quite cool, then apply icing and ornamentation. Carnival Cakes. Beat into a gill of milk a couple of eggs, adding gradually half a pound of flour. Let it stand for three hours, and then work into it enough flour to make a good dough; roll out thin and cut into rounds nine inches in diameter, then cut four paral- lel lines to within one inch of the sides so as to form handles bv which the cake may be lifted. Place in hot fat and fry to a light yellow; pile on a dish and sprinkle sugar over them. The cakes should be eaten cold. Chantillv Cake. Stand one basin in another the larger one containing hot water, and break in five put in a teacupful of caster-sugar, and whisk for about ten minutes, then re- move the basin from the hot water, and whisk for a few moments longer; sift in half a dozen tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring till quite smooth. Butter the inside of a cylinder-mould, sprinkle caster-sugar over it and pour in the cake mixture, and if it fills the mould, tie on a strip of buttered paper around it so as to come about an inch and a half .above the top of the mould, then bake in a moderate oven. Whip up half a pint of rich cream with a little caster-SUgar till it is quite firm, when it may be fla- vored to taste. Turn out the cake when cooked, fill the hollow with cream, and serve. Chestnut Cake>. Put about twenty or thirty chestnuts on a gridiron over a clear fire, and cook until the skins can be easily removed. Skin them ami put them into a mortar, with two or three ounces of butter and a little well-whipped cream, and pound well; then rub the mass through a fine sieve, using care to see that the mixture is not too wet. When all has been passed through, put it into a basin and mix in half its weight in sifted crushed loaf-sugar, slightly flavored with vanilla. Form the mixture into small cakes, placing them on a well-buttered baking-sheet, make a slight incision on the top of each, brush them over with the yolk of an egg, and bake to a good color in a hot oven. When done, remove them from the baking-sheet, and serve. 752 PASTRY. Chous Crisped (Pralined) with Almonds. Pour one breakfast cupful each of milk and water into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, and bring them to the boil ; then remove the pan from the fire, and work in a sufficient quantity of flour to form a soft paste. Place the saucepan back on the fire, and mix until all the lumps are broken up and the paste is perfectly smooth, and let it dry over the fire for a few minutes; then mix in one ounce of butter and two or three eggs, and stir these well in, adding three ounces of crushed loaf sugar, a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Work the paste into small cakes, decorate them with blanched and chopped almonds, brush over with egg, dust with powdered sugar, place them in a slow oven, and bake to a light color. Then serve at once. When mixing the paste, care must be had not to mix it too thick. Chous Filled with Cream. Pour one-half pint of water into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, a piece of lemon peel and one pinch of salt; boil these together and then mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir till thick and cooked. Allow the paste to get cold and then work into it a sufficient number of eggs to make it thin enough to drop from a spoon. Place a lump of lard in a deep fryingpan and make it hot, but not quite to the point of boiling. Then with a spoon drop the paste into it in lumps about the size of a hen's egg. When it is lightly browned and well swollen, remove the cakes, drain them, scoop out a little of the top of each to form a hollow and allow them to get cold. Whip some cream to a stiff froth, put a small quantity into the hollow of each piece, arrange them in a fancy dish, and serve. Christmas Cake. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter, or butter and lard mixed, into a pound of finely-sifted flour, into which have been mixed a teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinch of salt; when the fat has all been thoroughly worked in add half a pound each of well-washed dried currants and mixed candied peel and a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, together with half a teaspoonful of mixed spice. Form into dough with water and place in a greased cake-tin, baking in a moderately hot oven. Cinnamon Cakes. Work well together two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar and one pound of butter; beat the yolks of three and the whites of six eggs with a little rosewater and make all into a dough, reserving only a small quantity of the eggs. Form the dough into cakes, brush them over with the egg, sprinkle over a little cinnamon, sugar and PASTRY. 753 chopped blanched almonds. Butter some baking-sheets, lay the cakes on, and bake in a slow oven. Citron Cake. Mix with one pound of warm butter one pound and two or three ounces of sugar; when well worked together add one pound and four ounces of flour, six eggs and the yolks of four more. Cut into long shavings four ounces of candied citron, form these into layers with the cake mixture in a papered tin, and bake in a slow oven. Cocoanut Cake, Large. Beat a quarter of a pound of warm butter with one cupful of caster-sugar, and when creamy beat in three teacupfuls of flour with which has been mixed two tea- spoonfuls of cream of tartar and one teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda; add essence of lemon and the whites of two eggs firmly beaten and one pint of milk. Spread on greased pans and cover the tops with icing in which the grated cocoanut has been stirred. Ice the top with plain icing and sift a little cocoanut over it. Bake in a quick oven. Cocoanut and Orange Cream for Cakes. Beat two eggs, add two cupfuls of whipped cream, two cupfuls of grated cocoa- nut, two ounces of caster-sugar, the grated rind of one and the juice of two oranges; beat all together. A little grated cocoanut should be spread over as well. Coffee Cake. a paste with the following ingredients: seven ounces of dried and sifted flour, half a pound of powdered sugar, seven ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of potato flour, the yolks of six eggs, the whites of six eggs well whisked, one whole NO tablespoonfuls of brandy and a little salt. Put in a buttered cylinder-mould and bake. While it is cooling beat up the whites of four or five eggs and sift n them half a pound of caster-sugar, whip this over the fire until thick, then remove and continue whipping until it is cold; add half a wine-glassful of extract of coffee to give it a dark color. Put half a pound of butter in a basin, work with a spoon, and pour the coffee mixture in it as soon as it becomes creamy. When the cake is cold divide- in thin slices, mask each layer with the coffee mixture, build the cake to its original form, mask it all over with more of the coffee mixture, smooth over and decorate. Put it on a dish on a folded napkin and fill the hollow with the remainder of the preparation. Conde Cakes. Roll out to eight turns about half a pound of puff-paste. Cut into strips four inches wide and mask the top with almond paste; cut the strips again into oblongs 7 54 PASTRY. one and a half inches wide and sprinkle over the top with a little sugar, flavored with vanilla. Lay them on baking-sheets a short distance apart and bake in a slack oven. When they are cooked, trim around the edges, and serve. New Year's Cookies. Warm slightly three-quarters of a pound of butter and beat it until creamy with one pound of caster-sugar; beat three eggs well and mix them with the butter; then stir in slowly one pint of the best sifted-flour and one tablespoonful of caraway seeds. Stir one teaspoonful of saleratus in one teacupful of milk until well dissolved, then strain it, stir in one-half teacupful of cider with it and mix gradually in with the other ingredients. Work the mixture well, adding more flour if required to bring it to the desired stiffness. Sprinkle some flour over the table, place the paste on, roll it out and cut into round cakes. Butter a baking-sheet, lay on the cakes and bake them in a quick oven. When a trifle browned, arrange the cakes on a dish, and serve hot. Cornstarch Cakes. Mix in a basin one breakfast cupful of cornstarch, one-half breakfast cupful of wheat-flour, one tablespoonful of sugar and two saltspoonfuls of salt. Dissolve one teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in one-half teacupful of boiling water and pour it into three teacupfuls of sour milk; mix it with the dry ingredients and add two eggs well beaten. After buttering some small cake-tins, pour the preparation into the depth of about one and one-half inches and then bake for twenty-five minutes in a quick oven. Country Cakes. Place in a basin three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a pound of partlv-melted butter and the yolks of half a dozen eggs, beat well until a thick cream is obtained; then take the whites of the eggs and beat up with one pound of finelv-sifted lump- sugar, and when it becomes frothy, mix all together. Place the paste in tins and bake in a brisk oven for twenty minutes. Cream Cakes. Grease thoroughly with butter eight jelly-cake tins, and have a hot oven ready so that the cakes may be put into it as soon as possible after they are mixed. Stir two breakfast cupfuls of flour with one breakfast cupful of sugar and rub them well together; put two tablespoonfuls of bicarbonate of soda and two dessertspoon- fuls of cream of tartar on a plate, and with the back of a spoon rub out the lumps, and mix them with the sugar and flour. Make a hole in the center of the flour, and drop in and mix, one at a time, the yolks of eight or nine eggs; whip the white of the PASTRY. 755 eggs to a stiff froth, and stir this into the batter. Place an equal portion of the batter in each of the eight cake-tins, and bake in the oven for seven minutes. While the cakes are in the oven put one pint of milk and one teacupful of salt into a sauce- pan, and let boil; beat two eggs very lightly and stir them into four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and two tablespoonfuls of flour. When the milk boils, take it from the fire, allow it to cool for a minute or so, then pour it over the mixture of eggs, flour and sugar, stir well together and pour back into the saucepan; keep on stirring and let it boil for one minute. Remove the saucepan from the fire and drop into it twelve drops of essence of almonds. Take the cakes from the tins, place them on a dish, one on top of the other, with a laver of cream from the saucepan between them, sprinkle a little white powdered sugar over the top. Cream Puffs. Warm slightly one pound of butter, and beat it well with one-half pound of caster-sugar, then mix in two eggs. Put one and one-fourth pounds of sifted flour into a basin, with two tablespoonfuls of baking powder, stir in the beaten mixture and work until it is quite smooth. Shape the dough into cakes and bake in a sharp oven. Beat two eggs with four ounces of caster-sugar and one pint of milk, then stir them in with one-fourth of a pound of sifted flour. When smooth turn the mixture into a stewpan, and stir over a moderate fire until thick. When cooked cut the cakes in halves, scoop out a little soft paste, and fill them with cream. Arrange them neatly on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, and serve. Boston Cream Puffs. Put one-half pint of water into a saucepan with one-fourth pound of lard, and a little salt, and then boil. Add one-fourth pound of flour, or more, if required, and stir over the fire for five minutes longer, or until it becomes a smooth paste. Re- move from the fire, and mix in five eggs, one at a time. Drop small quantities of the mixture with a spoon onto slightly-buttered baking tins, allowing an inch or so of distance between each. Put the sheet into a moderate oven and bake for twenty minutes. Open the puffs by making an incision in the sides, and fill them with cream. Delicate Cake. Mix one pound of caster-sugar with an equal amount of warm fresh butter, and add by degrees fourteen whites of eggs; mix a half pound of cornmeal and a like quantity of white flour together, and beat in with the rest, then put in a teacupful of milk, a teacupful of brandy, a little lemon juice, and flavor to taste, beating thor- oughly. Put in a greased mould, and bake until done in a moderate oven. 75 6 PASTRY. Dessert Cakes. Mix well a quarter of a pound of butter beaten to a cream with a quarter of a pound of caster-sugar, a similar amount of ground rice, and half a teaspoonful of baking-powder. Beat up thoroughly three eggs, and then stir them into this mixture. Butter some small cake-tins, and pour in this preparation, and bake in a quick oven for ten to twelve minutes. Eclairs (Coffee or Chocolate). Put into a saucepan two gills of milk with two ounces of butter, set on the fire and stir with a wooden spoon; when boiling, add a quarter of a pound of well-sifted flour, and stir briskly for a couple of minutes. Stand the pan on a table, break in one egg, mix sharply for two minutes, break in a second egg, mix sharply again, and repeat with a third and a fourth egg. Place a small tube in a pastry-bag, and press out on a baking-sheet fifteen eclairs three inches in length, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes, then remove them and let cool. Open each eclair on one side with a pair of scissors, and, with a spoon, fill the interior with cream. Dip the eclairs, one by one, with the hand into icing. Lay them on a strainer and let cool. Dress on a dish with a folded napkin, and serve. Cream for Eclairs. Rub, until smooth, two table-spoonfuls of flour in a little milk, and add, whilst stirring, one pint of boiling milk. Whisk three eggs, and add to them six ounces of sugar and the above, pour all into a saucepan and cook for five minutes, add one tea- spoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt. When cool, flavor with almond, lemon or vanilla. Icing for Eclairs. Put a pound and three-quarters of granulated sugar in a saucepan with one gill of cold water; set on the stove and mix well with a wooden spoon until the sugar is thoroughly melted; when boiling remove from the stove and pour it gradually onto a marble slab; spread it about three feet square and let it cool for ten minutes. Tut one ounce of coffee into a saucepan with a breakfast cupful of cold water and boil until reduced to about two tablespoonfuls, strain through a cloth and let it cool; begin working the sugar that is on the slab with a spatula as rapidly as possible in every direction until it begins to whiten; add the coffee essence, mixing thoroughlv until it becomes quite hard; remove the spatula, detach the preparation from the slab quickly with a knife, put into a vessel, cover with a damp cloth and let it resl lor half an hour. Place half of the mixture in a saucepan on the hot lire and mix thor- oughly and slowly with the spatula until it is lukewarm, adding in the meantime one PASTRY. 757 teaspoonful of cold water. The remainder of the preparation is laid aside in a cool place and if properly taken care of will keep for a fortnight. Family Cake. Warm half a pound of butter and mix with it an equal quantity of moist sugar, a pound of molasses, a couple of eggs, a breakfast cupful of sour milk; mix together also a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda with four large cupfuls of flour and place in the pan, beating them well. Then take half a pound of well-stoned raisins and a pound of well-washed currants, dried, flour them and stir in with the other prepara- tion. Place on a greased pan, baking in an oven until done, and serve. Feuillantines. Prepare some puff paste, roll it out to about a third of an inch thick and cut into one-inch strips and two-inch lengths. Spread a baking-dish thick with butter, arrange the pieces of paste on it, placing them on their sides and leaving a small space between them; put them in the oven, and when they are firm and the sides have spread, glaze them with white of egg and dust with powdered sugar. As the feuillan- tines are cooked, set them on paper to drain off any extra grease they may contain; they may also be masked separately with a small quantity of different-colored jam. Arrange on a fancy-edged dish-paper or a folded napkin on a dish, and serve. Flame Cake. Peat together the yolks of ten eggs with half a pound of caster-sugar for twenty minutes; warm six ounces of butter, beat till creamy, and mix it in with the eggs, adding half a pound of the best white flour, and the grated peel and juice of one lemon. Whisk the whites of the t a froth, and mix them into this prepara- tion. Butter a shallow cake-tin, pour in this mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is done, remove from the pan, leaving it until the following day. Just when serving, put it on a dish, soak it in brandy, set fire to it, and serve at once. Fruit Cake. Put two ounces each of flour and ground rice into a basin and mix with two ounces of butter; rub it with the fingers until well mixed with the flour, then put in one ounce each of chopped preserved cherries, ginger and candied citron-peel, four ounces of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of blanched and powdered sweet almonds. Separate the yolks and whites of two eggs, beat the yolks first, mix them with the above ingredients, then beat the whites to a stiff froth and stir them in lightly at the last. Line a buttered cake-tin with sheets of buttered paper, pour the mixture in and bake it in a good oven; when cooked, remove the paper from the cake. Serve it cold. 75 8 PASTRY. Galettes. Sift a pound and a half of flour onto a board; make a hollow in the center; put a quarter of a pound of slightly warmed butter, a little salt and half a pint of cold water. Work the butter well with the water, gradually mixing in the flour so as to give it the consistency of puff paste. Let it remain for fifteen minutes, and in the meantime work half a pound of butter in a cloth until it is quite firm, then give it a flat square shape. Make the paste into a flat square shape also, put the square of butter on it and cover it over with the edges of the paste that project; give it five turns like puff paste and at the last turn make it about one inch in thickness. Cut it into a round shape with scalloped edges, put it upside down on a baking-dish, brush it over with egg and mark it in lines with a sharp knife. Bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes, and just before taking it out, sprinkle over with sugar glaze. It is then ready for use. American Gingerbread (Southern). Put one pint of molasses into a copper basin, warm it, and melt half a pound of butter in it; then mix in half a pound of moist sugar and three well-beaten eggs, add ground ginger to taste, one pint of milk and two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder mixed up with one pound of flour. The milk and flour should be added alternately and a little at a time. When thoroughly mixed, pour it into oval buttered pans and bake in a moderately quick oven. Serve either hot or cold. French Gingerbread. Mix a tablespoonful of ground ginger and half a tablespoonful each of ground aniseed and ground cloves with a pound and a half of flour; then mix in one pound of molasses and work it until quite smooth. Cover the paste over with a cloth and leave it until the following day; then roll it out and with a round tin cutter about two inches in diameter stamp the paste out into rounds. Butter a baking-sheet, lav the gingerbreads on it, brush them over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. The cakes should be kept in biscuit tins in a dry place. Spiced Gingerbread. Prepare a dough with one pound of butter melted in one quart of warm molasses, half a pound of brown sugar, six eggs, three-quarters of a pound of ground ginger, a quarter of a pound of ground allspice, two ounces of ground clows, three pounds of sifted flour and four tablespoonfuls of saleratus. Form into cakes and put in a mod- crate oven and bake. If preferred it may be baked in loaves. It should be eaten cold. PASTRY. 759 Wafer Gingerbread. Pour seven fluid ounces of treacle into a basin and with a wooden spoon mix in two ounces each of warmed butter and moist sugar, half that quantity of ground ginger, and lastly eight ounces of sifted flour; stir well until quite smooth. Turn it onto a slightly greased baking-sheet, rolling it out very thin, put in a slow oven and bake. Take out and cut into squares while still hot, roll them into shapes, and let them get cold. Gingerbread with Cocoanut. Put nine ounces each of wheat and rice flour into a basin and mix in eight ounces of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, the grated rind of two lemons and an ounce and a half of candied citron cut up small. Put half a pound of butter into a saucepan with one pound of molasses, make them both hot, pour them into the flour mixture and stir well. Let it all cool, add seven ounces of cocoanut grated and pounded in a mortar. Beat well for a few minutes, put the mixture in small lumps on a buttered baking-sheet, place them in a slack oven, and bake for about forty-five minutes. Ginger Cake. Put into a basin a breakfast cupful each of sugar, butter and molasses, with three eggs, a tablespoonful of ground ginger, a saltspoonful of bicarbonate of soda dis- solved in one tablespoonful of buttermilk and mix in two and a half breakfast cupfuls of flour. Add a little allspice if desired. Pour the mixture into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Ginger Loaf. Rub six ounces of butter or dripping into one pound of flour, put it in a basin and add a quarter of a pound of sugar, half an ounce of ground ginger and half the latter quantity of mixed spice, or a little powdered cloves and nutmeg. When it is well-mixed, add three well-beaten eggs and three-quarters of a pound of treacle Work this vigorously, add one teaspoonful of bicarbondate of soda dissolved in a wineglassful of warm water, and turn it into a well-buttered, shallow, square tin, only half filling it to allow for rising; two ounces of candied peel, finely minced, or half an ounce of caraway seeds may be added if desired. Put the tin in a moderate oven and bake slowly until done. Ginger Snaps. Put one pint of molasses into a saucepan with a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, two tablespoonfuls of ground ginger and half a pound of butter, and boil until all are thoroughly mixed. Let it cool and then add sufficient flour to make it into a soft dough; work it well, cut it into small cakes and bake in a slow oven until done. 7 6o PASTRY. Hazel-nut Cakes. Put four ounces of blanched and shelled hazel-nuts and one ounce of sweet almonds into a mortar and pound them coarsely; whisk the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them with the almonds, also six or eight ounces of sugar and sufficient flour to make the whole into a paste. Roll the paste out as thin as possible, and with a round tin cutter cut it into small cakes. Butter some baking-tins, place the cakes on them at a short dis- tance from each other, and bake in a slow oven. When cooked, leave the cakes until cold, then pack them in tin canisters. Hickory-nut Cake. Beat one-fourth pound of butter and one-half pound or so of sugar into a smooth cream, stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs, one saltspoonful of cinnamon and nut- meg mixed, and one saltspoonful of bicarbonate of soda dissolved in hot water, then add, and mix in, in small quantities, and alternately, the whites of three eggs whisked to a stiff froth, and one-half pound of flour, with one teaspoonful of cream of tartar mixed with it. Have prepared and dredged with flour one-fourth pound of stoned and chopped raisins and one-fourth pint of hickory-nut kernels, mix them quickly into the dough, and bake at once. Home-made Cake. Place half a pound each of sugar and butter in a bowl, mixing thoroughlv with the hand for fifteen to twenty minutes; then break four eggs, leaving the whites in a basin, and drop the yolks in with the butter and sugar, mixing again well; then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the other mixture. Grate in half a saltspoonful of nutmeg, half a pound of flour, and mix again thoroughlv; stir in a couple of ounces of well-cleansed currants, and a similar quantity of blanched sweet almonds cut up into small pieces; mix well for five minutes with the hand, then pour in a gill of brandy, a little at a time. Have ready a two-quart cake-mould, drop a third of the mixture into the mould, spread over it a couple of ounces of candied orange- peel shred into thin slices, and then add half of the remaining part of the mixture; spread on top of this a couple of ounces of shredded candied citron-peel, and fill in the rest of the preparation; lav a piece of brown paper over, and place the mould in a moderate oven for two hours until it becomes a golden color, then remove, and let it cool in the mould. Turn the cake out on a dessert-dish, and decorate the top with a border composed of candied fruits, tastefully arranged. Honev Cakes. Put three-quarters of a pound of butter into a saucepan on the fire until melted, then stir in two pounds and a half of silted Hour, and keep stirring until lightly PASTRY. 7 6i brown. Turn the flour out of the saucepan onto a paste-board, and make a hollow in the center; dissolve one teaspoonful each of salt and bicarbonate of soda in a small quantity of water, then pour it into the flour and mix well, stir in enough water to make a soft flexible paste. Knead the paste well, then divide it into small portions, shape them round, make a dent in the center of each with the tip of the finger, lay them on a buttered baking-sheet, and bake them until colored. Put half a pound of honcv in a saucepan with a pint of water, and stir it over the fire until reduced to a syrup. When the cakes are cooked pour the syrup over, and put them again in the oven until it is well soaked in. Arrange the cakes on a hot dish, and serve. Jelly Cakes. Beat eight ounces of sugar with five eggs, add one-fourth pound of melted but- ter, one teacupful of milk and twelve ounces of flour to which has been added one teaspoonful of baking powder. Spread this over some jelly-cake pans and when cooked put three of these, one on top of the other with jelly in between, and serve. Jelly Roll. Put one pound of sugar and twelve ounces of butter into a basin, beat them to a cream, add eight or nine eggs beaten to a froth, sift in one pound of flour, and work the whole to a smooth batter, adding the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Put a sheet of well-buttered paper into a baking-tin, spread the batter over this to about one-fourth inch in thickness, and bake in a hot oven to a light brown. Remove it, mask the surface with thick jelly, roll it up and tie it until it becomes set and fast. Take off the strings, brush the roll with the beaten white of an egg mixed with a little syrup, roll it in granulated sugar, ami serve. Jersey Wonders. \\ ork together with a tablespoon before the fire one-fourth pound of powdered sugar with one-fourth pound of the best butter until they are well incorporated. Beat up thoroughly four eggs and add these to the sugar and butter. Sift in by degrees one pound of white flour and* a grating of nutmeg. Knead this together for some- time, cover it with a cloth and set it in a warm place; then cut up the mass into small pieces about the size of an apple, roll them round in the hand to prevent them sticking and then roll out each ball on a floured paste-board to an oval about one- third to one-half inch in thickness. Cut with a floured knife three parallel slits in the middle of each, but not through at the ends, cross the two slips with your fingers and draw up the two sides between. Put your fingers through and drop each wonder into a dish of boiling lard. They will rise as they arc done and can then be turned so as to brown them all over equally. Remove them with a fork and lay them on a drainer or folded paper to drain. A slight sprinkling of powdered sugar improves them. 762 PASTRY. Ladies' Bouchees. Place a small quantity of paste in a pastry-bag. Butter well and flour a baking- sheet, and form a sufficient number of small round biscuits the shape of macaroons, sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar and place in a brisk oven and bake for twelve minutes. Then take out to cool for fifteen minutes. Lift from the pan, lay them upside down on a table, and make a small cavity half an inch in diameter in each, filling with the cream. Fasten them together two by two, to enclose the cream, and they should then be ball-shaped. Then they may be dipped carefully and separately into a thick sugar icing and laid on a pastry grating to dry for fifteen minutes. Dress on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper, and serve. Raspberry Ladies' Bouchees. Put the yolks of half a dozen eggs into a basin and beat them up with one-half pound of sifted crushed loaf sugar, working them well for about five minutes. Add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff broth, and mix in four ounces of flour. Turn the mixture into a biscuit-forcer or paper funnel, squeeze out rounds about one and one-half inches in diameter, letting them fall on sheets of paper, sprinkle them over with powdered sugar, and bake them. When done take them out, mask half of them with raspberry jam, cover with the other half, glaze them with raspberry icing, by dipping them into it, holding one at a time on a skewer, drain, place them in a hot closet for two or three minutes, take them out, and when cold they are ready for use. Lady Cake. Take one pound of caster-sugar, half a pound of flour, half a pound of butter, the whites of fourteen eggs, and mix well together. Flavor with two drops of oil of bitter almonds and bake on a buttered tin. Lady Fingers. Prepare the desired quantity of flour and butter in the following proportions : Half a pound of butter to every three pounds of flour, and rub well together, adding half a pound of fine sugar, with about thirty drops of essence of lemon; mix with milk into a firm dough, and place in a cloth for half an hour to settle before using. Heat with a rolling-pin until quite smooth, roll out thin and cut into strips, and cut these strips into five-inch lengths. Leaf Cake. Blanch and pound one-half pound of sweet almonds with half a dozen bitter ones; rub the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs until quite smooth. Mix three-quarters of a pound of butter with a pound and a quarter of flour, and when quite smooth stir PASTRY. 7 6 3 in the above ingredients with one-half pound of caster-sugar, three well-beaten eggs and a sufficient quantity of milk to make a consistent paste. Work the mixture thoroughly, then lay it on a paste-board on which some flour has beensifted, dividing it into six equal portions, and rolling them out very thin. Butter a baking-sheet, lay the cakes on it, brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, and bake to a light yellow in a slow oven. When cooked slip one of the cakes off the baking- sheet, cover it with a coating of any kind of preserve, place another cake on the top of that, coat that also with preserve, and so on till the last cake is on the top. Mask the top of the last cake with the finest white sugar icing, trim all evenly around the edges with a sharp knife, and serve when the icing is quite dry. Lemon Cake. Beat one-half pound of powdered sugar together with the yolks of six eggs; when smooth add the whites previously whisked to a stiff froth, then stir in slowly seven or eight tablespoonfuls of flour and the grated peel of a large lemon. Line a cake-tin with buttered paper, pour the mixture in, and bake for one hour in a moder- ate oven. Lemon Cheese Cakes. Put four or five ounces of butter into a basin to melt, and work in four ounces of crushed and sifted loaf sugar. Then add the yolks of two and the whites of one egg, the finely-chopped peel of three and the juice of two lemons, one large crushed Savoy biscuit, a few pounded blanched almonds, and three tablespoonfuls of brandy. Line some patty-pans with puff paste, put a little of the lemon mixture in each, and bake in a quick oven. Lemon Puffs. Whisk the yolks of three eggs together with one-fourth pound of powdered sugar, then beat in three tablespoonfuls of milk, and sprinkle in a very little salt and the grated peel of a lemon; whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth and beat them in the above, and stir in finally one-half pound of flour. Pour the batter into muffin-rings, and bake in a quick oven. They should be baked immediately after the batter is mixed. Lemon Roll Cakes. Slightly warm two ounces of butter together with two ounces of powdered sugar; dissolve one tablrspoonful of dry yeast in about one-half teacupful of warm milk, then mix it and the butter in one-half pound of flour, adding as much more warm milk as will be required to make a light dough. Beat the dough thoroughly and mix with it the grated peel of one lemon, a few pieces of finely-shredded lemon-peel and two well-beaten eggs. Divide this dough into two equal-sized lots, place them on a 7 6 4 PASTRY. floured paste-board and mould them into long, thin rolls. Put them on a baking-sheet, set them in a warm place until risen, then bake in a slow oven. When cooked the rolls should be of a pale yellow color. Sprinkle lightly over with powdered sugar, and serve. Lunch Cakes, Large. Put into a basin two pounds of flour mixed with a half pound of moist sugar; form a hollow in the center, put in one tablespoonful of thick yeast, add a third of a breakfast cupful of warm milk not hot enough to scald the yeast, then stir in a little of the flour and let it rise for about forty-five minutes. Add another two-thirds of a breakfast cupful of milk warmed sufficiently to dissolve half a pound of butter, stir in one and a half pound of well washed currants, a small quantity of chopped peel, one teaspoonful of ground allspice, and the grated rind of a lemon. Pour the preparation into a well-buttered tin, set it to rise in a warm place, and afterward bake in a moderate oven. Turn it out when done, and serve cold. Macaroon Cake. Warm some butter, mix it with some sugar, work to a cream; beat in some eggs, add some milk, baking-powder, and enough flour so that you will be able to roll it. Work the dough thoroughly and put on a buttered baking-sheet. Place in a moderate oven, bake slightly, as it will have to be baked again when used for macaroon paste. Macaroons Flavored with Chocolate. Take half a pound of ground sweet almonds, add a quarter of a pound of slightly warmed chocolate and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; mix them to a stiff paste with the white of the eggs. Shape the paste into round balls, place them on a sheet of paper leaving a space between each, sift over some fine sugar, and bake in the oven until they are of a golden color. When they are done, take the paper out of the oven, dampen it a little so that they will be removed easily, and place the macaroons on a sieve until they are wanted. Macaroons Flavored with Coffee. Mix one pound of ground almonds and a pound and a half of sugar in a basin with a little extract of coffee, adding the whites of some eggs to form it into a paste. Place it on a wafer-paper in the shape of fingers and bake in an oven until they are of a light pale brown. Take them out when they are done, remove them by damp- ing, and place in paper-boxes until wanted. PASTRY. 765 Macaroons Flavored. Beat the yolks of four eggs light together with one pound of powdered ■white sugar and whisk the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth. Beat into the beaten eggs and sugar the grated peel of one lemon and half a teaspoonful of grated nut- met. Mix in lastly and in small quantities the frothed whites and six ounces of flour. Roll the mixture into small balls, rub over with butter, lay them on a buttered-paper leaving a space between each, and bake in a hot oven. Macaroon Mirletons. Break into a powder enough macaroons to make three ounces in weight, place it in a basin with the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, stir in four ounces of powdered loaf sugar, half an ounce of pounded candied orange-flowers and a small sprinkling of salt. Mix these for a few minutes; then add two ounces of warmed butter and the whites of two eggs whipped to a froth. Have some pans ready and line them with puff-paste, fill them with the mixture, dust them over with powdered sugar, let it melt in the oven, then dust over coarse sugar and bake to a light brown in a slake oven. When they are done, take out and serve them either hot or cold as may be required Swiss Macaroons. Blanch and chop one pound of sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds, place them on a dish, mix with them half a pound of powdered sugar, and place them in a cool oven. When they are lightly browned place the almonds in a basin and mix with them a pound and a half more sugar, and enough of whisked whites of eggs to knead the whole into a paste. Spread a sheet of wafer-paper over a baking sheet, mould the above mixture into small, round cakes, dipping the finger in water to prevent them sticking, and lay the cakes on the paper. Leave a space between each cake as they will spread while baking. Place two thin fillets of almonds on each cake, brush them lightly over with a paste-brush dipped in water, and lav the cakes on the paper. When they are cooked leave the macaroons until they are cold, and then trim the paper off neatly round the edges with a knife. White Macaroons. Sift ten ounces of crushed loaf sugar into a basin, and mix in with a wooden spoon six ounces of blanched sweet almonds cut into shreds crosswise, four ounces of ground almonds, a small quantity of essence of noyau, and lastly the whites of two eggs. Make these into a paste, and with a spoon lav out small quantities about the size of walnuts, on sheets of paper, keeping them apart. Dip a finger in cold water, place it in the center of each macaroon to make them flat, then place on a 7 66 PASTRY. baking-sheet in a moderate oven, and bake until they are lightly browned. Take them out and let them get cold before serving. Macaroons with Almonds. Blanch and pound smooth one-half pound of sweet and one-fourth pound of bit- ter almonds, adding a very little of the white of an egg to prevent their oiling. If they are then allowed to stand all night they will do so much the better. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, adding gradually and in very small quantities three heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; continue beating well, and stir in gradually one tcaspoonful of mixed mace, nutmeg and cinnamon finely powdered, and one teaspoonful of rose water; then add also, by degrees, the pounded almonds. The mixture should be of the consistency of soft dough — if too thick it will be heavy, and if too thin the cakes will run out of shape in baking; if it is not too thick, pound a few more almonds and stir them in. Butter a tin baking-sheet, flour the hands, take the dough up with a knife and work into balls; lay on a battered tin, bake to a pale brown. Have the oven hotter at the top than at the bottom. The macaroon should, in baking, rise in the middle, and the surface should crack. Split almonds laid on top before baking will improve the effect. Macaroons with Pistachio Nuts. Blanch and chop fine ten ounces of pistachios, place them in a basin with ten ounces of sifted crushed loaf sugar, a little essence of noyau, and the whites of two eggs. Lay out small quantities about the size of walnuts on wafer papers, keep them apart and with a moistened finger slightly press down the center so as to keep them round. Place them in an oven to bake. Serve when cold. Madeleine Cakes, Printaniere. Rub the rinds of two small lemons on a lump of sugar; crush it very fine with a roller, mixing three ounces of powdered sugar in with it. Put two ounces of this into a saucepan with two ounces of sifted flour, the yolk of one egg and two whole eggs, two tablespoonfuls of brandy and half a saltspoonful of salt. Mix all together with a spatula, and in two minutes, when the paste is well mixed, stir it again for about a minute only. Place the saucepan containing the preparation onaverv slow fire, stir it slightly to prevent its sticking to the bottom of the saucepan, and as soon as it becomes liquid take it off. Butter twelve small madelcine moulds, fill them with the preparation, lay them on a baking-sheet, and place them in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Remove, let them cool, and take them out; cut a piece from the thinnest part of the top of each one to serve as a cover, and with a dessertspoon scoop out of each a cavity one inch deep. Put into a saucepan the yolks of eight eggs, one- PASTRY. 7 6 7 hair pound of powdered sugar, a piece of vanilla bean one inch long and split in halves, also one pint of sweet cream and six ounces of finely-grated cocoa. Stir well with the spatula for two minutes, place the pan on the hot stove, and stir constantly while it is heating; but under no conditions must it be allowed to boil. Remove it from the fire and place the pan in a cool place on the table for thirty minutes, strain it through a sieve into a freezer and freeze. Fill the cavity of each madeleine with this, replace the covers, lay them on a wire grating, and, with a brush, gently glaze as follows: Put into a saucepan one ounce of granulated sugar with one tablespoonful of cold water, and let it come to a boiling point; remove and immediately add two table- spoonfuls of strawberry juice, mixing well together, and sprinkle over with two ounces of well-chopped pistachios. Glaze the cakes with this and put them in the oven for one minute or more; dress on a dish with folded napkin, and serve. Madeleine Cakes without Butter. Put three eggs in a basin with a quarter of a pound of sugar and beat them until frothy, then mix in slowly three ounces of dried and sifted flour, and grate in a small quantity of lemon or orange peel. Grease some small madeleine moulds, fill them with the mixture, and bake in a slow oven. When the cakes are baked take them out of the moulds, and keep dry in biscuit tins until wanted. Meringue Cakes. Make a sponge cake of the following : Half a pound of finest caster-sugar and the whites of twelve eggs beaten together until the sugar is quite dissolved, then add a quarter of a pound of butter warmed to melting, one gill of milk, three-quarters of a pound of flour and one tcaspoonful of baking powder. Peat these well and spread thinly on a greased baking-sheet. Put into a moderate oven, leave the door ajar, and bake. A board should be placed under the tin so that the bottom of the sheet will not bake too quickly. When nearly done cut into squares and cover each with meringue or icing made stiff. Place back in the oven for a few minutes, and then serve. Sifted sugar may also be sprinkled over the icing before returning to the oven to finish baking. Cream Meringues. Take the whites of six eggs and whip them to a white froth, and until they are very light and dry; then mix in rapidly but gently one-half pound of caster-sugar. Take some paraffinc-papcr and spread it over three boards about nine by twelve inches in size; then, with a spoon, take the mixture out and drop it into oblong shapes on the paper to the number of about twelve on each piece. Place them in a warm closet to dry for two hours; then take them from the board, and remove the soft part with a spoon. Meanwhile take one breakfast cupful of cream, and season it with a 7 68 PASTRY. little vanilla or one teaspoonful of wine, and one tablespoonful of caster-sugar. Whip it into a stiff froth, then fill the shells with it and join them together. The meringues must not be exposed to any great heat, or they will spoil. Maraschino Meringues. Put one pound of sugar into a saucepan, reduce it almost to the crack, and let it cool. In the meantime beat the whites of some eggs to a froth, and work them into the sugar, then add two tablespoonfuls of maraschino. Arrange equal-sized portions of the meringue on strips of paper, sprinkle with sugar and bake in an oven; as soon as the top part is set take them out, place two together with the moist part left in them, leave them in a hot closet to dry and they are ready for use. Mille-Feuilles Cakes. Roll out two pounds of rich puff paste, cut it into sixteen pieces marking each one in the center where a piece is to be removed, place them in a moderate oven, and bake. Take them out when done, lift off the centers, fill them with any kind of jam, replace the centers, pile the pieces one on top of another, and the cake is then ready for serving. Molasses Cake. Put seven or eight breakfast cupfuls of flour into a large basin and rub in until quite smooth one-half pound of butter; then mix with it one-half pound of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of ground ginger. Dissolve one tablespoonful of bicarbonate of soda in three tablespoonfuls of warm water, stir in with it one breakfast cupful of sour milk together with two breakfast cupfuls of molasses. Work the dough thor- oughly. If it is a little too stiff, more water can be added, or if not stiff a little more flour. Put the dough in a buttered cake-tin and bake in rather a quick oven. When cut, the interior should be quite dark. Nelson Cake. Roll out a pound and a quarter of puff-paste, cover it with a pound and a half of well-washed currants, half a pound of sugar and a little spice; sprinkle over a small quantity of water to make the currants and sugar bind, cover with another pound of rolled-paste, and bake. When done, ice it, let it stand awhile, and serve. New Year Cakes. Place one pound of powdered sugar and ten ounces of butler into a basin ami beat them to a cream. Add three well-beaten eggs two ounces of caraway-seeds, one grated nutmeg and one pound of flour. When thoroughly mixed, stir in one PASTRY. 769 pint of milk and one gill of rose-water and mix well again. Add two pounds more of flour and work the whole to a smooth dough. Roll it out, cut into cakes and bake in a moderate oven. Serve when cold. Nougatinas. Blanch and chop fine one pound of sweet almonds. Put two pounds of powdered white sugar and the juice of a lemon in a sugar-boiler over a moderate fire and stir until it boils, then add the almonds, stir them well in and pour the nougatina- paste on a well-oiled marble slab, forming it into an oblong cake one inch thick. Cut it in squares, and when cold, dip these in melted chocolate. Nut Cake. Warm one teacupful of butter in a basin, beat to a cream, and add gradually one breakfast cupful of sugar. When the mixture is quite light and frothv, stir in two well-beaten eggs, then a teacupful of milk, add two breakfast cupfuls of flour with one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda. Now work in quickly one breakfast cupful each of stoned raisins and blanched nuts very finely chopped, turn the mixture into well-greased deep baking-pans, and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Turn it out when done, and serve cold. One and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking-powder may be substituted for the cream of tartar and soda if preferred. Orange Cake (Large). Sift three-fourths of a pound of flour on a paste-board, cut eight ounces of butter into small pieces, lay them on the flour and work them in; add four ounces each of BUgar and blanched and pounded almonds, the volks of four hard-boiled eggs that have been rubbed through a fine sieve, three well-beaten eggs, and sufficient milk to form a smooth paste. Knead the paste until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and then roll out as thin as possible without breaking. Cut it to a round shape, lav it on a sheet of buttered paper on a baking-slab, roll the trimmings of the paste out into a long strip, cut it lengthwise into three, and plait them. Moisten round the edges of the cake with a paste-brush dipped in milk, and lav the plait round. Hake the paste until lightly browned in a moderate oven. Beat the yolks of three eggs together with the grated peel and strained juice of three oranges, four ounces of sugar, and one ounce of butter broken into small pieces. Turn the mixture into a lined stewpan, and whisk it over a slow fire until it thickens, but on no account let it boil, or the eggs will curdle: then move it away from the fire and let it cool. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow, and stir them lightly in with the yolks. When the crust is nearly cold, spread the mixture over it, garnish in a circle with quarters of oranges from which all the white pith has been removed, pile a few tablespoonfuls of well-whipped cream in the center, and serve. 770 PASTRY. Marzipan Paste. Blanch one pound of sweet almonds and a few bitter ones, place them in a mortar and pound until smooth, adding a few drops of rose-water to keep them from oiling. Put the almond paste into a lined saucepan with one pound of sugar, and stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until it will not stick to the fingers when touched by them. Dredge a paste-board well with powdered sugar, spread the paste out on it as thickly as possible, and cut it into cakes of any desired shape or size. Cover a baking-sheet with white paper, sprinkle it over with sugar, and lay the cakes on it. Place them in a slow oven, and bake until of a pale yellow color. Store and keep the cakes dry in tins. Almond Apricot Pastry. Put a lump of butter in a basin, warm it and beat in a little sifted, crushed loaf sugar, into which put the required quantity of almonds blanched and pounded with a little orange-flower water, and then add the whites of some eggs and the volks of twice the number, one at a time, and lastly, dredge in by degrees a little dried and sifted flour. Work the mixture well until it is perfectly smooth, then add a little essence of vanilla to flavor. Put a border of rich puff-paste around a dish, pour in the mixture, smooth it on the top and bake in a moderate oven. When done remove and spread a layer of apricot jam on top of it. Put the whites of some eggs in a basin with a little lemon juice and icing sugar until the mixture is quite thick and of the consistence of butter. Put this icing over the jam, smoothing over the surface, and set in the oven again for a few minutes for the icing to set. Take out, let it get cold, cut into slices, and serve. Pistachio Cake. Weigh eight eggs in their shells and allow an equal weight of caster-sugar and the weight of two eggs of potato flour and the same of pistachio nuts. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs and beat the yolks with the sugar; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow and blanch and pound the nuts, stirring in gradually half of the potato flour, and when well beaten half of the whites of egv many epicures as superior to the famous Stilton cheese. In some particulars it resembles Stilton, but not in shape, being flat and broad. When cut, it represents, if it is ripe, a yellow color, with rich green veins. Unfortunately, the large existing demand for it has led to the substitution of weak, gummy, altogether inferior makes. inzola should be firm and creamy, with the two flat surfaces as nearly level as possible; those of inferior quality sink in the center, and are of weak substance. CHEESE AND FRUITS. 875 Gruyere Cheese. This is a very large round, flat, thick cheese, and cuts firm, with large holes, or " vesicles " as they are called, containing at times a little moisture. The odor of Gruyere is very peculiar, but the nutty flavor of a good sample is onl\- equalled by Cheddar. The best qualities are imported from Fribourg. The process employed in making Gruyere is unique, but there are two qualities, the better being called Em- menthaler, the difference being in the quality of the milk. Neufchatel Cheese. Of all the foreign-made salted milk cheeses that reach our shores, this favorite is the smallest. The cheese known as Bondon is a species of Neufchatel, but it is usually so exceedingly salt and dry to the taste that it is not a favorite. The ordinary Neufchatel is imported direct from the Department of Seine-et-Oise, in France, is very rich and well flavored, weighing from five to six ounces each, the best samples being blue veined. Parmesan Cheese. As the name indicates, this cheese is a native manufacture of Parma in northern Italv. It possesses such a sweet taste that it is everywhere employed by cooks for culinary purposes, especially when grated. The milk from which this cheese is made is drawn from cows which are kept in sheds the vear around and fed in summer on cut grass and in winter on fine hay. The cream skimmed from the milk is used for butter, or the making of cream cheese, so that Parmesan is not of a very buttery character, and the rennet is added to the skimmed milk at a temperature of from eighty-six to eighty-nine degrees Fahrenheit, and the whole is then placed over a slow fire and the temperature raised to about one hundred and twenty degrees, the curd separating meanwhile into small lumps. Saffron is occasionally added to the milk before heating, which gives it a yellowish green hue, and the curd is then put under pressure. These cheeses are of mammoth size, shaped in large flat hoops, the edges are then rounded, the weight being in the neighborhood of one hundred and eighty pounds. They are of a dark, almost black color on the outside, which is brought about by dressing with coloring and rubbing with linseed oil until a good surface is procured. Parmesan cheese takes about three years to ripen, and as its size requires a considerable time in its consumption, it is advisable to cover the cut- SUrfaces with paper steeped in sweet oil. Pont-TEveque Cheese. This is a milk cheese named after the place where it is manufactured. It is con- sidered inferior to Brie cheese, but it has a verv good local reputation and deserves to be better known. 876 CHEESE AND FRUITS. Port du Salut Cheese. This great favorite should be better known in this country. Its flavor is very- palatable and mild, the substance pasty and soft and it possesses all the qualities of the best cheeses. It is shaped into round cakes, weighing from five to eight pounds each, and they are stamped with the name of the place of their manufacture. Pot Cheese. Place one quart of buttermilk and two quarts of sour milk in a saucepan, and set it over the fire till it is scalding hot; then take it off and with a skimmer remove the curd from the whey. Place the curd in a muslin bag, tie and hang it up to drain for an hour or so. Moisten the curd slightly with cream, stir in a little salt, work it well with the hands, then mould it into small balls. Pile these on a dish, cover them over, and set in a cool place till ready to serve. Potted Cheese. Cut about a pound of Cheshire cheese into dice, and put these in a mortar with six ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of finely-powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of mace; then pour over four or five wineglassfuls of sherry, and after it has stood for two or three minutes to soak, pound all well together. Work it into a smooth paste, and place it in jars, putting clarified butter over the top. Pounded Cheese. Chop about one pound of good dry cheese, place it in a mortar with three or four ounces of butter, and pound to a smooth paste. Mix with it one teaspoonful each of made mustard, ground spice and curry powder, and one-half teaspoonful of black pepper. Stir one wineglassful of sherry into the mixture. Next cut some slices of bread about a quarter of an inch in thickness, cutting each slice into halves lengthwise; spread the cheese mixture over them, and sprinkle a little cayenne pep- per over each. Arrange them on a dish over which has been an ornamental paper, or a folded napkin, and serve. The cheese mixture can be kept in a cool place for several days, if pressed down into jars and covered with paper. Roquefort Cheese. This cheese is peculiar from the fact that it is made of ewe's milk, though some manufacturers are now using the milk of the cow. Naturally therefore it posses peculiar pungency and flavor, though in other particulars it somewhat resembles other veined cheeses. Upon the continent Roquefort takes precedence of many other makes, CHEESE AND FRUITS. 877 whether foreign or native; but in this country it is not so generally liked. It should not be cut until it is well advanced in the process of decay, and then its excellence can not be gainsayed. The mould is procured by the introduction of mouldy bread- crumbs, and by pricking to admit the air. Sage or Green Cheese. This is a variety of cream cheese made by adding sage leaves and greening to the milk. The following is a very good recipe: Pound the tops of fresh young sage leaves with an equal quantity of spinach leaves, and squeeze out the juice. Add this to the extract of rennet, and stir into the milk a sufficient quantity to suit the taste. When the curd comes, break, salt it, fill the vat high with it, press for a few hours, and then turn the cheese every day. Stilton Cheese. This is the king of English cheeses, and, therefore, as it commands a large price, subject to worthless imitations. Although Stilton takes its name from a town of that name in Huntingdon, it is chiefly manufactured near Melton Mowbray, in other parts of Leicestershire, and in Nottinghamshire. It is made in the shape of a cylinder, twice as long as broad, weighing about twelve pounds, and having a very rough, irregular whitish rind. When it is- cut, the substance should be white, friable, yet mellow, and marked with greenish blue veins. According to the prevalence of these, the cheese will be judged; but as Stilton takes from three to six months to ripen, many experiments have been tried to give it the appearance of age, though the cheese itself may lie young. Rich new milk, to which a proportion of cream is added, the quality varying in proportion to the skill used in its manufacture. The milk is set at ninety degrees Fahrenheit, the curd is broken down in about an hour, and removed into large strainer cloths, from which the whey gradually escapes. As the curd be- comes firm, it is broken up and aired until it is sufficiently acid for salting anil placing in vats. The vats, hoops or moulds, are filled by hand, and turned regularly until the cheese can be removed, and it is then covered with a clean binder every day until the crust commences to form, when it goes into the curing-room, and there it ripens better when the temperature is well maintained at from fifty-three to fifty-five degrees. "Strolil" Cheese. Rub together six ounces of butter and six ounces of flour, and add six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and a small quantity of cayenne, and after this is well mixed, add the yolks of three eggs and one tablespoonful of raw cream, working all together well. Roll the paste out thin, divide it into strips about five inches long, put these on a baking-sheet, and bake in a brisk oven. When they are done, put them on a dish with a folded napkin on it, and serve. 878 CHEESE AND FRUITS. Almonds and Raisins for Dessert. The finest quality of Valencia raisins, in good bunches, with a purple bloom on the fruit, are requisite for this purpose. Pile up the bunches on the dish in the form of a pyramid upon a lace-pattern dessert paper, and strew well-blanched almonds over and between the bunches. Salted and "Deviled" Almonds. Blanch and dry in a cloth as many Jordan almonds as may be required, put them into a fryingpan with a little butter and fry them until they are of a delicate fawn color. Then pour them into a colander and sprinkle them over immediately with fine table salt, tossing them as they are sprinkled. Serve hot or cold in little trays with cheese. To devil them, mix with the salt twice the quantity of cavenne pepper and sprinkle as before. Boiled Chestnuts. Wash thoroughly two or three pounds of chestnuts, make two cuts through the stem end of the shells, crossing each other so that the shells can be easily stripped off; tie the nuts in a napkin and boil in salted water until tender. Take them up, turn them into a fresh napkin laid in a salad-bowl and serve hot with fresh butter and salt. Claret wine should go with them. Roasted Chestnuts. Split the skin on one side of some chestnuts, put in a pan with a perforated bottom, stand over a moderate fire, and when they are done wrap them in a cloth for a few minutes. Serve them with salt and butter. Oranges for Dessert. Peel the oranges and trim off the white part, being very careful not to break the fruit. Put some powdered sugar in a dish, about one-half pound for two dozen oranges, and pour over it sufficient cochineal to give it a bright pink color; place it in front of a fire until well dried. Roll the oranges in the sugar, giving them a good coating all over, then arrange them carefully in a raised glass or dessert dish and serve. Oranges colored in this way arc a great improvement over the ordinary wav of serving them. Oranges and Bananas for Dessert. Peel four bananas (the red kind if possible), cut them across into rather thin slices and arrange them in a glass dish; strain the juice from two oranges, pour it CHEESE AND FRUITS. 879 over the bananas, sprinkle them plentifully with powdered sugar and serve imme- diately. Or peel the oranges, slice them and arrange the slices in the dish among the slices of bananas. Cream, either whipped or plain, may be served with this dish, also sugar. Peaches for Dessert. Wipe the peaches carefully and lightly over with a clean cloth; put a circle of them on a dish, then over these a narrower circle, and so on, finishing off with one at the toj) and using peach leaves and moss to garnish and build them with. Put a circle of the moss and leaves round the base of the peaches. Vine or artificial peach leaves may be used if the genuine ones cannot be obtained. Pineapple for Dessert. Prepare a thick cushion of paper, called tampion, in a fancy dish, cover it well with dyed moss and real or artificial vine leaves, stick the stalk of the pine in the middle of the paper and garnish around with any other fruit desired. Walnuts Prepared for Dessert. Crack the upper half of the shells of the required quantity of walnuts, and re- move them carefully without damaging the kernel. Dip the exposed half of the nut into boiling water to facilitate peeling off the skin. Place each nut, as soon as peeled, in slightly arid water, which should also be cold and salted. When ready to serve, drain the nuts on a cloth. For dishing the nuts a pasteboard stand should be made with raised graduated tiers, and covered with green paper. Arrange the walnuts on this, using some moss to keep the nuts in position. Watermelon with Brandy. Cut out and remove a piece of the (enter of a watermelon; and pour in the side one pint of brandy; replace the piece of melon in its former position and put the melon on the ice-box for six hours. Set it on a dish and send to the table cither whole or cut in slices. Watermelon with Champagne. Proceed as with brandy, using champagne instead of brandy. Watermelon with Rum. Prepare the same as watermelon with brandy, using rum instead of brandy, and proceed as before. Index. Preface. page. A few suggestions with regard to the kitchen. i Menus, or Bills of Fare... v-vi Seasons. Seasons for fish - - vii- ix " for poultry, game and meats .... ix- xi " for vegetables and fruits . xi xiv " market li-t - xv Bakery and Breakfast Dishes. Biscuits, butter 79° " buttermilk - 790 for coffee 790 " honey - 79° •' lemon .. 791 milk " oatmeal tea " wine 79' Bread, American American brown — - 79 2 ' Boston brown corn " dyspepsia - 79 2 '• egg 793 " gluten... " graham Hour. " household " made with potatoes.. ... " oatmeal " pulled Brioche. 794 flutes - rings Buns 795 " hot cross .... " light tea Crackers, corn meal " graham flour 7 " lemon-flavored 796 " soda Cracklings, almond Cracknel-, Philadelphia Crumpets 797 " flannel " wheatmeal Muffins. French style rice "... rye _. - toasted -. Rolls, American 799 " butter for tea 799 PAGE. Rolls, French 799 milk .-. boo " tea or breakfast 800 " Vienna . 800 " oatmeal wafers. 800 Wafers, graham flour 800 Zweibach 801 Breakfast Dishes. Cakes, breakfast 801 buckwheat _. 801 coffee. 801 cornmeal butter . - 802 flannel. 802 griddle 802 " oatmeal small 802 Gruel, oatmeal 802 '• wheatflour 802 Mush, cracked wheat, American .... . 803 graham flour _ — .. 803 oatmeal - 803 Porridge, crocked wheat 803 milk - 804 " rice - -- 804, Toasts, cream ... - 804, egg.... -- 804 milk 804 French 805 Beverages. Chocolate -- 806 . .. Coffee, black - breakfast. 806 iced .- 807 Maaagrau . 807 roasting 807 with whipped cream Tea, how made 807 I ■ 807 " Russian -- 808 Beef. Beef, a la Mode.. 142 " boiled 14a '• braised li- fe la Mode 143 " " Providence 143 rib 143 " Chateaubriand 143 " corned, American style ut boiled and spinach 144 " " hashed 144 " croquettes .- 144 " cutlets - - H5 INDEX. PAGE. Beef, fricadelles _ 145 " fricandeau 1 -45 " grenadins 145 " hashed.. . . __ 140 " heart (bullock's) 146 " " " roasted 146 " " " stewed 146 " khulash 147 " kidneys .. 147 " " fried 147 " " " with Champagne 147 " " rissoles 147 " " stewed 148 " liver and rice, boiled 14S " Macedoine 148 " marrow 14S " " bones ._ 14S " " frilters 149 " minced..- 149 " " Spanish style. 149 " Neapolitan... 149 '• oxtails, boiled 150 " " braised with chestnut puree 150 " " broiled 150 •' " stewed 151 " palates, blanquetie with truffles 151 " " croquettes 151 " " curried 151 " " fricassee with truffles 152 " " paupiettes 152 " pot-pie 152 " pie, steak with oysters 152 " pudding and kidneys _. 153 •• rissolettes 153 " roast, American style 153 on the spit 153 " " ribs 153 " smoked 154 " " with cream 154 " smothered 154 " spiced 154 .ik, fried American style... 154 Hamburg 155 " '• " fried with Russian sauce 155 " " loin, broiled 155 " " minced, fried 155 '• " porterhouse, double, broiled 155 " " rib, broiled __ 155 " " sirloin broiled 156 " " with anchovy butter 156 i\ed . . .. 156 " tenderloin 156 " " braised and larded [56 " " broiled 157 " cheron . 157 " " Florentin 157 larded 157 " minions, Lorillard . 157 " " Pompadour 1 5S " sauted, Bearnaise .. 158 " noisettes, plain 1 58 " Rossini - 159 " " w i t h p u re e of mushrooms 1S9 stewed with oysters 159 " tournedos, New York style . 159 " plain 159 tongues, boiled " " with chestnuts... " braised broiled in cases (slices). " financiere gourmet's style, minced scalloped .. stewed terrapin style a la mode de Caen .. and onions baked with potatoes. Bordelaise broiled " with tartar sai Creole style curried fricassee . Lyonnese poulette style stewed inaigrette Vol-au-vent of tendons PAGE. 160 160 160 161 161 161 161 162 162 162 162 163 163 163 164 164 164 164 164 165 16S 165 165 166 166 Cheese and Fruit:,. Cheese, Brie S73 Cam em be rt s ;3 cheddar . 873 cottage cream S74 cream (Dutch) 874 Gorgonzola Gruvere ~s;, Neufchatel .. Parmesan ... Pont l'Eveque S;> Portdu Salut .... 870 pot potted 876 pounded 876 Roquefort S76 sage or green ■ s 77 Stilton ^77 Strohl S77 Fruits for Desserts. Almonds and raisins s 7^ " salted and deviled Chestnuts, boiled 87S " roasted ( ) ranges " and bananas — Peaches.. .. - Pineapple Walnuts Watermelon with brandy .. " with champagne 879 " with rum.. 879 Cold Service. Aspic of beef tenderloin " '• tongue in jelly . . " cravfish with salad 3&i 3* INDEX. 883 TAGE. Aspic of chicken cutlets 385 fillets with jelly 385 " game in jelly .. 386 " goose 3S6 " goose fat livers 3S7 " ham, boiled, cold.- 3S7 " lamb cutlets 387 lobster " oysters 3 sS " partridges - - - 3SS " pigeons 3S9 " pike.. 389 " prawns " quails, empress " salmon - -- 390 " sole fillets 391 trout... 391 Ballotines of partridges.. 391 Boned (galantine) chicken with jelly 392 " clucks stuffed eels.. 393 grouse partridges - '• pheasant 394 " " plovers quails " snipes " " turkey, American style. Chaudfroid of chicken " goose, fat liver cutlets " lark galantines partridges with truffles pheasants — pigeons — - " plovers quails salmon snipes turkey woodcock 400 Cutlets of partridge 1 K-acI Cheese, tali's _ , piu's " veal, jellied Tell v, chicken in \<>\ of pig's feet and ears 402 head in jelly. " trout In fish jelly M.ukerel, cold, green Mayonnaise sauce 403 Mayonnaise of chicken 403 " eels 403 " " perch . . 404 " " salmon " salmon with aspic jelly 40) " soles " trout 4'^ " turbot " " turkey with BSplc jelly 40, Pickled beef palates. 406 " salmon 406 " Turkish style " tongue .". 406 Potted beef 407 " 1" . " chicken " crayfish 407 " eels _ 407 PAGE. Potted fish 408 game 408 " goose 408 " goose fat livers 40S " ham 409 hare. 409 " larks 410 " liver. 410 " lobster 410 " mackerel 410 " mushrooms. 410 " mutton _ 411 partridges 411 " pheasant 411 " pigeons 411 pig's head 412 pork 412 " rabbit 412 reed birds - .. 413 " salmon 413 shrimps 413 " tongue 413 trout 413 turkey 414 turkey livers 414 \e.il 414 venison 415 Pressed chicken. 415 Salmon, Montpelicr 415 Terrlne of chicken livei 415 " "partridge 416 " " veal 416 Tongue, beef, cold 417 calf's with Macedoine 417 Confectionery. Boiling sugar Bonbons, chocolate " orange-flower in cases s chips.. 8 Candied fruit or nuts " quarters of orange Candy, American ..... ...... Bia cream Bta nut rock - 812 peanut . vanilla tablets 813 walnut . . B13 Caramel- Nl4 " orange ... M4 Philadelphia 814 raspberry s i( " vanilla - 815 Chestnut glace" with caramel 815 with sugar.. 815 Drops, acid - - 815 " cough " millcfleurs 816 " strawberry... . 816 " vanilla 817 English i.uk res, vanilla .. .. — 817 Marzipan, strawberry... _ Nougat -- 818 " baskets 819 88 4 INDEX. PAGE. Nougat honey - 820 " with apricots 820 Pistachio paste 820 Pralines, Brazil-nuts 820 Sugars, colored 821 " flavored S21 Sugared flowers 821 Desserts, Cold. Bavarois, almond — 653 apple 653 " chocolate 653 fruit with cream 654 strawberry 654 Blanc-Mange, chocolate with cream.. - 654 citron 655 quince 655 " strawberry 655 Waldorf style 656 Charlotte, Chantilly ._.. 656 " French 656 fruit 657 " oranges 657 " raspberry 657 " russe 65S " " burnt almond 658 " with coffee 658 Chartreuse of oranges 658 " strawberry 659 Chestnuts, sugared -- 659 Compote of apples 659 " cherries 660 " chestnuts 660 " cranberry 660 currants, red 660 figs 661 " fruits with iced champagne 661 " greengages 661 gooseberries, green 661 grapes 661 " hazel-nuts 662 " lemons 662 " nectarine 662 " oranges 662 peaches 662 peaches with rice 663 " pears 663 pears, princess 663 " pineapple 664 plums 664 prunes 664 " raspberry 664 " strawberries 664 " walnuts . 665 Cream almond 665 apple Bavarian. 665 " brandy 665 caramel Chateaubriand " chestnut coffee .- confectioners'... 667 diplomatic .. flavored with cinnamon " " " coffee PAGE. Cream flavored with lemon 668 flawn 668 " floating islands of 668 for fruitpies. 668 ginger 669 " gooseberry 669 " jelly with fruit 669 " lemon 670 " Neapolitan 670 " noyau 670 " paste flavored with coffee 670 " " " " lemon 671 " pastry 671 " peach 671 " pineapple 671 " pistachio 672 " plombiere with bananas 672 ■' raspberry 672 " roman 672 " royal 672 " strawberry 673 " " with whipped 673 " " frozen with whipped 673 •' raspberries with whipped 673 '• Swiss 674 " vanilla.. 674 " Versailles 674 " whipped 674 " " flavored with brandy, cof- fee, etc ." 675 " " Newport 675 '• " red currant 675 " " vanilla 67, " with burnt sugar ... 676 " " chocolate- 676 •' " orange 676 Crusts, strawberry 676 Custard, arrowroot 677 " baked 677 " chestnut 677 " chocolate-apple 677 " cold 677 " flavored with rum 67S French 678 " in cups or glasses — " lemon 678 " macaroon. 67S " peach 679 " tapioca 679 " vanilla, large and small.. - 679 " vanilla cup.. 679 ant Flawn of fruits, Viennese style.. " " strawberry -- 'So Fruit bowl " 6S0 Fruits glazed 6S1 " rice ■ salad " vol-au-vent Iced raspberries " straw berries _ Jelly, anisette with pears arrowroot -- brandy — - calf's foot champagne INDEX. 885 PAGE. Jellv, cherry 684 " claret 684 " constantine 684 " crystal 684 " Dantzig, sweet 685 " for cake 685 " French, sweet 685 *' gelatine - 685 " Jamaica 6S6 " Kirsch 6S6 " Kiimmel 6S6 " lemon " Madeira -. - Maraschino " marbled -- " noyau " orange .. " peach -- " pear — .. " plain - -- " port wine -- - . " Princess Victoria 689 " prune - 6S9 " raspberry - 690 " red 690 rhubarb border with whipped cream.. 690 " rum... 691 " Russian stock St. Petersburg " 6trawben v . . (192 " tapioca 692 " vanilla 692 Venetian . " with fruit champagne .... " " whipped cream Lemon froth 693 Maraschino cheese Meringues .. " almond apple _. 694 " chocolate. " Florentine " Italian " kisses " lemon " peach " pineapple " shells " strawberry Orange baskets " butter salad.. Oranges, French style , frosted " stuffed Pies, apple " apple custard " apricot " bin ana cream -. " cherry 700 coanut 7 " " custard 700 " i- ran berry " cream.. 700 " currant 701 PAGE. Pies, custard 701 " fruit 701 " gooseberry 701 " lemon 701 " " cream 702 " mince ... 702 " " lemon. . 702 " peach 703 " pumpkin 703 " raspberry 703 " rhubarb 703 Pineapple glace 703 " salad 704 Pistachios, glazed 704 Prunes, Russian st\ le 704 Pudding, American black 704 " Baden Baden 705 " chestnut with fruits .. ... 705 " chocolate 705 " " with almonds 705 " diplomatic 705 " gelatine _. 706 " lemon jellv 706 " maraschino.. 706 " meringue 707 " peach 707 " Princess _ 707 sponge-cake 708 Rhubarb with meringue 708 Rice, boiled and ere. 1111 . 70S " " withapiicots 708 Snow, lemon " orange 709 Sponge, lemon — 709 " peach _.- 710 " strawberry ..- 710 Stewed apples » 710 " and rice 71 ,; - — - 7> greengag 71 " peaches 71 " conde — 71 " pears 71 " " and rice 71 plums 71 " pomegranates 712 " prunes 712 " quinces 713 " rhubarb 713 Tarts, apple and custard.. 713 open 713 " cranberry 71.} " cream - - 714 " " chocolate.. 714 " currant 714 " gooseberrv-and-eream 715 Felly ....: 7<5 " lemon 715 " meringue 7'S " peach -- 7'5 " pear.. 7'° " pineapple - .- 7 10 " plum - — .-- 7 lf) raspberry - 7'6 " " with cream 716 strawberry 7'7 Tartlets, almond - 7^ 886 INDEX. PAGE. Tartlets, cherry 717 " fancy 717 " gooseberry 718 " orange 71S " paganini 71S " peach . 718 " pear 719 " plum 719 " Roman 719 " rhubarb 720 " strawberry .. 720 " vanilla 720 Walnut salad 720 Walnuts sugared 721 Desserts, Hot. Apple float 612 Apples fried 612 " baked 612 Apricot snowballs 612 Bananas baked 613 Charlotte, apple 613 " peach 613 " pear 614 " pineapple 614 Conde" apricots 614 Croquettes, apple. 614 " rice 615 Crusts, fruit 615 " pineapple 6i<; Custard apple 616 " " with vanilla 616 Dumplings, apple, baked 616 " " boiled 617 " currant 617 " fruit 617 " lemon 617 " peach, baked (>ij " pear 618 Eggs, cheese cakes 618 Duchess 618 " snow with coffee cream 618 " Turkish style 619 Flawn apricot. 619 " cherry 619 " peach . 619 " pear 620 Fritters, almond custard 620 apple 620 " apricot 621 " banana 6:1 " bonne femme 621 " cream 621 " French 622 " lemon. .. orange 622 " custard 623 " peach 623 pear 623 " pineapple " Portuguese 624 " rhubarb. 624 " rice souffles 625 strawberry 625 PAGE Fritters, vanilla 625 Lemon patties 626 Omelets, apricot 626 " celestine 626 " jelly 626 " kirsch 626 " lemon 627 " rum 627 " souffle 627 Orange meringue 62S puffs 628 Pancakes 62S " apple 628 " Casino style 629 " currant 629 " gooseberry 629 " New England 629 " rice _ 630 " with apricot jam 630 " with macaroons 630 Pears, baked 630 Puddings, Adelaide 631 " Albemarle 631 " almond 631 " " and rice 631 " apple and almond 632 " " custard 632 " apricot. ... 632 " bird's nest 632 " biscuit 632 " Bombay 633 " Boston 633 " brandy, with brandy sauce .. 633 " bread, baked 633 " " with cream sauce 634 " cabinet . 634 '* Califorria, baked... 634 " caramel 635 " cheese, baked 635 " cherry 635 " chestnut 635 " Christmas 635 Clifton 636 " cottage 636 " cream.. 636 " cocoa -- 636 cornstarch 637 custard 637 " cup --- 637 " egg snow 637 flame... 637 fruit - 638 " " with rum sauce. 638 " German " ginger. -- 638 " gooseberry - — 639 " imperial. .- 639 jelly. ... 639 " lemon " •• souffl6 .. " macaroon... 64O " mousseline - - <>)o " Neapolitan.. .- 640 " orange, baked '11 pineapple.. — - — 641 plum - 641 •• Scotch 642 INDEX. 887 Puddings, quince .. 642 " raspberry 642 " ratafia, baked 642 " rice, baked 64.1 " " boiled - 643 " " and fruit 643 " " and tapioca 643 " " with apples 643 " with walnuts... 644 " rum 044 " sago, baked --. 644 " sherry sponge " fried - 576 " fried for garnish - 577 PAGE. Eggs, fried in batter 577 " fried in brown butter 577 " fried, provincial style 577 " fried with bacon.. .. 577 " fried with black butter 578 " fritters . 57S " hard-boiled with Madeira sauce .. 578 " in aspic 578 " "cases 579 " " cocottes 579 " "crusts 579 " '•}«:"?,- 57 '' " "shells 579 " Italian style 580 " Leon XIII 580 " loaf, Princess style... . '• Lyonese Btyle " maltre d'hotel... 580 " married 581 •' matelote of " omelet, American 5S1 " anchovy 5S1 " bacon _ 582 " beef, smoked cepes 58a cheese baked 582 " " chee>e Parmesan .. " chicken liver " crab.. " " crayfish.. ... 583 " " egg and truffle " green peas.. . ham... " " kidney _ ^4 lobster ._ " " mushroom oyster " parsley _ " I' 1 '"' 1 — - potato 585 " praw 11 salmon. .. 585 " sardine " " sausage •' " savory. 5S6 shallot " " shrimp.. 587 " " Spanish... " " tomato 587 " trullle 587 " with line herbs 588 " on toast 588 " Parisian style 588 ■' peasant Btvle 588 " Philadelphia .. " poach ; how to. 589 " poached Bourguignonne 589 " " with anchovy sauce 589 " " " bechamel sauce 589 " " " celery sauce 589 " " " mushrooms 590 " " " wine sauce 590 " poulette style 590 " Queen style '590 " Scotch woodcock .... 591 " scrambled 591 " " with cream and mushrooms. 591 888 INDEX. PAGE. Eggs, scrambled with smoked beef 591 " " truffles 591 " shirred 591 " Spanish 591 " stuffed 592 " " with anchovies 592 " sultana 592 " surprise 592 " tartlets, curried 593 " Trenton 593 " turban of 593 " Tuscany 593 " Two Brothers 593 " Yalencienne style 593 '• Yol-au-vent 594 •' Washington 594 " with asparagus 594 " '• cheese and parsley 594 " " cream 594 " " kidneys 595 " " tomato sauce 595 Farinaceous. Cheese Wscuits 596 " patties 596 " straws 596 Dumplings, German 597 •' hard 597 " Indian 597 Fondu of cheese 597 Hominy, boiled 598 •' * cakes 598 " croquettes 598 " fried 598 Macaroni, baked 599 " Bolognese style 599 " curried 599 " Genovese style 599 " Italian style 600 " Milanese style 600 «• Neapolitan style 600 " stewed 601 " timbales 601 " with cheese 601 " " cream 601 " " gravy.. 602 " " ham 602 " kidneys 602 " " tomatoes . ... 602 Noodles 602 " baked 603 ' with Parmesan cheese 603 Nudels 603 Dampf-nudels, Polish stvle 603 Pastes, Italian 604 macaroni 604 Pilau, Indian .. 604 rice .. 604 Turkish... 604 Polenta and cheese - 605 timbales, Milanese 605 Ravioles, baked 605 for soups... 006 Rice border • or croustade 606 |uettes, Italian style 607 PAGE. Rice croustades, Queen style. 607 " curried 607 " fried 607 " in Turkish style 608 " menagere 608 " Milanese 608 " patties 608 Rissotto 608 Milanese 609 Spaghetti 609 " Italian style ._ 609 " Neapolitan style 609 " with cheese . 610 " with cream sauce 610 Welsh rabbit 610 " " baked 611 " " Oscar style 612 Fish. Anchovies 47 " serve 47 " stuffed 47 " with olives 47 Bass, baked plain 48 " boiled 4 S " broiled 4 8 " fried with bacon 4S Black bass, fried 49 Bloaters, broiled ... 49 Blue fish, baked, Italian style 49 Bouillabaisse 49 Carp, baked 49 " baked, Mariniere 50 " boiled 50 " pickled 50 " stewed Catfish, stewed with tomatoes 51 Codfish, baked 51 " baked with cream 51 balls 51 " boiled, with cream sauce 52 " " with Hollandaise sauce 52 " cleaning 52 " fillets, Hollandaise. 52 " fried 52 " fried, maitre d'hotel 53 " hashed 53 " matelote of 53 " stewed 53 Cod's head, baked Cod, salted, Biscayan style 54 " " boiled 54 " " " with egg sauce .. " " with brown butter.. Cod's tongues, boiled, with egg sauce fried 55 " " poulette style ■' «' with black butter sauce. Eels, braised, royal style " brochettes of " broiled " fricasseeof 56 " fried - " matelote " •• Normandy stj le Stewed, American style INDEX. 889 PAGE. Eels, stewed, Bordelaise style 57 " " poulette style 57 Fish attelettes.. 57 •' curried 58 " cutlets 58 " fritters 58 " Normandy style 5S " pickled .So Flounders, baked 59 " " Italian style 59 " boiled " 59 " fricassee of 59 " fried -- 60 Haddock.baked 60 " boiled, with lobster sauce... - 60 " broiled 61 " fried fillets 61 " maitre d'hotel - --- 61 " smoked, baked — 61 " " broiled. 61 fried - 61 Halibut, baked (n " boiled 63 " broiled 62 " steaks fried 62 Herrings fresh, broiled, maitre d'hotel 62 " " " with mustard sauce 62 " " matelote 63 " " stewed 63 " smoked .. 63 Kingfish boiled 63 Mackerel, baked 63 " boiled.. 64 " boiled, marinaded 64 " broiled . 64 " " Normandy st\ le ' | " " with black butter " Spanish broiled Perch, boiled broiled . . . " fried " German style Normandy Silesian stj le .. 66 Pike, baked . boiled, Dubois " boiled with caper sauce " fillets, fried, financlere .... " fried " pickled Pompano, broiled Salmon, baked with cream sauce boiled.. '•7 68 " with 11 \ " slices with piquant sauce . 69 Bouchees 69 bond ins of broiled ... 70 croquettes . 70 curried 70 cutlets 70 " English style.. 71 " fried ". 71 " in papers 71 " with caper sauce 7 1 " with Milanese sauce 71 PAGE. Salmon, cutlets with oyster sauce 72 " fillets, Parisian style 72 " " with Ravigote sauce 72 " fried 72 " kippered broiled 73 " " fried 73 " in matelote 73 " maitre d'hotel 73 " patties 73 " vol-au-vent 74 Salmon trout, baked 74 " boiled 74 " " modern style 74 Sardines, baked 75 " broiled 75 " curried 75 " deviled _ 7:; " maitre d'hotel 76 " Piedmontese 76 Shad, baked 76 " American style 7'. " broiled 76 " broiled with sorrel 77 " fried 77 " planked ._ 77 Shad's roes, broiled 77 " " '• with bacon 7S " croquettes 78 " fried 78 Sheep's head, boiled 7S " fillets fried. 78 Skate, boiled with black butter 79 " fillets baked 79 " Italian style . -<> " stewed with caper sauce .. 79 Smelts, baked .. 79 " Bearnalse ... Boulangere 80 fried... " in matelote 80 " sauted in brow n butlei stuffed " Toulouse s i Sole, baked with while wine 81 " broiled .. 81 Ibert stj le .. 81 '• fillets fried " " in cases " Joinville.. " Orlv " " Parisian stv le .... " " provincial st\le_ Rouennese . ... S3 " with anchovies 83 " " with ovsters 83 " " with Ravigote sauce Sj. " Marechal.. irmandv style | " paupiettes "f w ed with oyster sauce S.s Trout, baked 85 Beyroul - 85 " boiled . " broiled 86 " " with bacon. -. 86 " brook.. 86 " croquettes 86 8go INDEX. PAGE. Trout, fillets Aurora 86 •' sauted S6 fried 87 " Hussarstyle 87 " in papers 87 " Venetian style 87 with remoulade 88 Turbot, baked 88 " boiled with lobster sauce 88 broiled 8S " fillets with cream sauce 89 " with black butter 89 Vol-au-vent of fish, Normandy 89 White bait, deviled ... 89 " " fried 90 Whitefish, fillets baked 90 Fish, Shell. Clam fritters 91 Clams, scalloped 91 steamed 91 " stewed 91 " Little-Neck served raw 92 " soft, ancient style 92 " " fried ". 92 " " Newburg style 92 " " stewed 93 Crabs 93 " buttered 93 " croquettes 94 " deviled 94 " in shells 94 " minced 94 " Queen style 95 " Ravigote". 95 " stewed 95 " soft-shell, broiled 95 " fried 95 " " stewed, with okras 96 ■' oyster, fried ._ 96 stewed, poulette stvle 96 Crayfish, boiled in court bouillon 96 Bordelaise style 96 ■' Mariniere 97 " patties... 97 timbale of 97 Edible snails 98 " baked 98 " " Bourgoyne 98 Frog's legs, baked .. .' 98 broiled. 99 " " fricasseed 99 fried stewed 99 Lobster, American stvle 100 baked 100 boiled .- 100 Bordelaise 100 broiled . 101 " Ra\ igote ...... - 101 buttered tOl " cream . 101 croquettes 102 " curried . 102 cutleta ioa devile . 102 PAGE. Lobster, fricassee 102 '■ fried 103 " fritters 103 " in casserole 103 " in shells 103 " ' Newburg 103 " on skewers 104 " patties 104 " rissoles 104 " scalloped 104 " stewed 105 " " Bordelaise 105 " vol-au-vent 105 Mussels, fried 105 " in shells 106 " matelote 106 " poulette st \ le 106 " scalloped 107 " stewed, Mariniere 107 " Villeroy 107 Oysters . 107 " American style ._ 10S " baked . 109 " " in their shells 109 " " on toast 109 " bouchees 109 " broiled 1 10 " " breaded 1 10 " " in the shell 110 " cocktails no " cromeskies no " croquettes no " croustade III " curried til " fricassee III fried lia " " and bacon 112 " deviled 112 " '• patties 112 " " truffled H3 fritters ... 113 " incases 113 " Indian stvle ... 113 in the shell.. 114 " patties.. 114 pie -- 114 " poulette 114 " scalloped US " spiced 115 " steamed 115 " stewed 115 Baltimore style stuffed '. 116 " vol-au-vent.. 116 " with cream. ....... 116 " " Parmesan cheese 1 17 Prawns, boiled 117 buttered 117 Scallops, baked i'7 " fried . ' 1 7 " stewed 11 s Shrimps and boiled riee Il8 " buttered ' lS " cromeskies " Normandy style patties or bouchees 1 19 scalloped INDEX. 891 PAGE. Shrimps, stewed — 119 Terrapin 119 diamond back or salt water 1 19 baked 121 baked, Maryland style 122 fricassee 122 steaks 122 stewed 122 Baltimore style 123 " Maryland style 123 vol -au- vent" .- 123 Turtle fins, financiere - 123 " stewed 124 Game. Ducks, canvas-back " •' broiled " " " roasted. " ruddy, broiled " " roasted teal broiled . •• deviled.... " gourmet style _ " roasted ... wild, broiled " fillets " " with orange sauce *' roasted... imi- Game, bouchi " croquetl " cutlets " deviled " fillets in " pie 1 111 1 - " souffles. " vol-au-veni Goose, wild, baked with mushroom 1 sauce Grouse, broiled. cutlets fried *' larded. Pie " roasted •' salmis ... . — ... stewed supreme, Richelieu style Guinea fowls, broiled roasted, lai ded Hare- back with poivrade sauce " baked " broiled " civet " civet Bourgeoise . " " French st vie fillets fried with'quenelleo larded, minute style " " witb poivrade sauce f,'ibelotte " P'e " roa-ted with cream sauce salmi- stewed " timbales 338 33« 338 338 338 339 339 339 3-1 o 340 340 34" 34' 341 34' 343 34^ 3(2 343 343 343 344 344 34 t 345 345 345 34^ 34'> 346 :m7 347 349 349 349 350 350 350 35' 35' 351 35' 352 352 352 353 Larks, ballotines- of. broiled in eases. patties Portuguese style roa-ted scalloped in a croustade Ortolans, broiled in papers fried " in cases " patties '• perigordine " provincial style roasted Partridges, boiled with cream sauce " braised " " and cabbage " " financiere " " perigueux. " " witb truffles.. -. " broiled, American stxle ■• " cutlets with Colbert sauc " chartreuse croustades " fillets financiere Toulouse " " with truffles P'e " Princess Beatrice -\ le " puree of roa-ted 11 .. i> ( ., | _, ,. stuffed witb truffles 1 1 mis . -anted, hunter's St) le Ste« ed . " •• chipolata " " Montmorency " Spanish style. Pheasant, braisi " " financiere " broiled ..... .. " fillets, Maintenon fried witb trutlles " legs, deviled - " Perigueux " roa-ted salmis " Soubise PIo vers, bra i-ed broiled " fried, witb truffle roasted " salmi-, M;ii-on d'Or Prairie chicken, fricassee " " roa-ted " " stewed Quails, broiled " " with bacon " Crapaudine " larded... " in cases " Jardiniere " roasted " salmis " with green peas Rabbit, deviled 'AGE. 353 353 353 354 354 354 354 355 355 355 355 356 356 356 356 357 357 357 357 358 358 358 359 359 3-9 360 360 3oo 36i 36i 36i .V»i 362 363 3'>3 364 364 3«4 366 366 367 367 367 368 369 369 369 369 370 370 37o 370 892 INDEX. PAGE. Rabbit, fillets, Valencienne style. --- 371 " j»gged ". 37i " pie 371 " roasted, with olives 372 " sauted 372 '• stewed 372 u " with fine herbs 372 Reed birds, broiled 373 " fried 373 " roasted 373 Snipes, broiled 373 fillets, in cases 373 " roasted 374 " salmis 374 Squirrels, American style 374 " broiled . 375 Venison chops, broiled 375 " " " with chestnut puree.. 375 fried 375 " collops 375 " cutlets, braised 376 " " broiled 376 " fillet, roasted 376 " St. Hubert 376 " forequarters, roasted 377 " jugged, with poivrade sauce 377 " leg, roasted 377 " roasted 377 " saddle, baked 37S " " Polish style 378 " " roasted 37S " shoulder, roasted, French style 378 " steaks, broiled 379 " " hunter's style 379 " stewed 379 Widgeons, grilled 379 3N> 3So 3S0 3 So 3Si roasted. Woodcocks, broiled. " fillets, in surprise " Lucullus... " " on toast " " with truffle puree... . 3S1 " in croustades 381 " minute style 382 " Perigueux 382 " roasted 382 salmi. 3S3 Woodhens broiled -.. 383 " Russian style 383 Garnish gs. Bouquet garnished to prepare. 545 Croquettes, to prepare 545 Crouton of fried bread 545 Croutons 545 " bread for entrees 546 " " "entremets. S4 f > " " " soup 546 " " " " cond£ 546 Dumplings for broth. 546 sago for soup, German 546 Egg balls for soup " turtle -.547 ! oached for soup '547 American. S47 balls 547 Forcemeats, balls for soup " " turtle soup chicken chicken for patties game goose fat liv er ham hare's liver lobster mushrooms partridge pheasant pies for pigeons pike pork with bacon rissoles shrimps .. suckling pig for truffle turkey or veal for veal veal for balls or stuffing... " " mock turtle soup. " " stuffing fish " " turkey (boiled)... Garnish, admiral artichoke bottoms _. Bayard beef marrow Bordeaux, Bordelaise cardoons for carrots for cepes for chain bord chicken livers chipolata chivry commodore crayfish Durand D'Uxellea financiere Flemish game godard gourmet green peas " puree leeks mariniere matelote Milanese Montebello mushroom mushrooms stewed Normandy olives - onion for fi icassee Parisian peasant providence provincial Rouennese smelts . Soubise ... 'AGE. 548 548 548 548 548 549 549 549 549 550 55o 550 550 550 551 55' 55i 551 5S« 552 553 552 552 552 553 553 553 553 553 553 554 554 554 554 554 555 555 555 555 555 556 556 556 557 557 557 557 558 INDEX. 893 PAGE. Garnish St.N'azaire 560 " supreme 561 " tomatoes 561 " Toulouse 561 turtle 561 truffles 562 " turnips.. 562 " Valencia 562 " Vanderbilt 562 " vegetable for soups 562 Parsley, fried. 563 Puree of chestnuts 563 Quenelles, beef marrow . .. . 563 " calf's liver 563 " chicken - 563 " Dutch . -564 " for soup entrees 564 " herb and forcemeat 564 " turtle Ravioles of game in consomn / . 565 Salpicons " crayfish ... 565 " financiere " hunter's st\ le " M shrimp- 566 with Madeira . Stuffing, anchovy " for birds 567 " chestnut " " for turkev " " with truffles " chicken " •• livers for birds for ducks forfish... for fouls " giblet for turkev " goose pickled pork for turkeys " potato. " poultry galantines " rabbits. Buckling pigs " truffle and chest nut " for turkey turkey boiled or rabbi) •' ' roasted 571 Turkish for poultry 571 veal Yorkshire pudding 571 Ice-Creams and Bavaroia lemon 722 " maraschino pineapple " pistachio 7-- Charlolte iced panai hee 733 Ice-Cream 723 " almond and raspberry " apricot and pistachio 7.4 " banana . 7: 4 " brown oread .... 724 " caramel " chestnut PAGE. Ice-Cream chocolate 725 " citron 725 " coffee 725 " French 725 fruit 725 ginger 726 " hazel-nut 726 " hickory-nut 726 " kirsch 726 " lemon 726,727 " macaroon .. 727 maraschino.. 7J7 orange .. 727 Neapolitan . ... New York . . 72S nougat 728 nut . 728 peach 7^s pear ..... . 729 pistachio . 729 Plombiere plum.. . 729 Portuguese . 730 punch . 730 ratafia ..... - 730 sherbet strawberry . 730 vanilla 731 " andchocolate 731 •• strawberry . 731 walnut 731 " wine.. 733 Ice cups 7 ja " granites, lemon 732 733 Mousse caramel '« chestnut . . 733 " Charlotte - 733 strawberry . . " with coffee 7 {4 Parfait with chocolate 734 Puddings (Iced) Alexandria 734 " " cabinet 734 73S •• iced 73s Nesselrode 735 • • plum ... Punch in surprise Kirsch maraschino Roman.. ttrawbern .... - 737 Sherbets, American carnot .... - 73^ cherry, u bite . 738 " cream Kirsch - 738 lemon " orange " pineapple . . strawberry - 739 Waldorf style " with champagne ... 740 Souffle ices - 74° •' " vanilla and chocolate. 740 " " with brandy 740 «94 INDEX. PAGE. Souffle ices with maraschino 741 " " with meringue "4 1 " " with vanilla 741 Tutti frutti 741 Water ices, apple 742 " apricot 74 2 " cherry, red 742 " lemon 742 " Madeira 742 " melon 743 " orange 74;, " peach 743 " pear 743 " pineapple 743 pistachio 744 " raspberry 744 strawberry 744 " vanilla 744 Lamb. Lamb Dallotin, with peas hlanquette breast, braised " " Milanese style " broiled " stewed brochettes chops, broiled " in papers fried " Maintenon style " with brown sauce " with champagne " with Perigueux sauce croquettes curried cutlets, broiled " Duchess style fried " in papers " Jardiniere . " Villeroy " with asparagus " with spinach epigrammes, with asparagus tops " with macedoine fricassee --- hashed haunch, roasted kidneys, broiled, maitre d'hotel " " " with Colbert sauce " deviled - " fried, with bread croutons.. " stewed lei,', boiled liver, broiled " fried minced with poached eggs pilau quarter (fore), roasted... " (hind), roasted " " with celery saddle, roasted " and leg.. shoulder braised.. " " African style 167 [67 167 168 168 168 [68 [68 [6g 169 169 [69 .69 [70 '7" [70 ■7" 172 '7- '73 '73 '73 '73 "74 '74 '74 '74 ■74 '75 '75 '75 '75 '7'' [76 '7" '7'' 176 '77 '77 '77 '77 178 PAGE. Lamb, shoulder braised, Flemish style 178 " " " Rouennese 178 " " roasted and mint sauce 178 " stewed with tomatoes 178 " sweetbreads baked 178 " " fricassee 179 " " incases 179 " " in shells 179 " " stewed 179 " " timbale of 180 " " with villeroy sauce 180 " tongues boiled... 1S0 " " glazed 1S0 " " pickled 1S1 " " stewed 1S1 Mutton. Sheep's brains poulette 182 " " with remoulade sauce 182 Mutton breast, baked 182 " " braised 182 " boiled with caper sauce 183 " stewed 183 " chops braised 183 " " breaded and sauted 1S3 " broiled 1S3 " " " Brittany style 184 " " " provincial "style 184 " " " Sover 184 " fried 184 " " " Soubise style 184 " Maintenon style . 1S5 " cromeskies . 1S5 curried 185 " " forcemeat balls 185 " cutlets braised 1S6 broiled 1S6 " with carrots, maitre d'hotel 1S6 with macedoine of veg- etables 186 " '• " with mushroom sauce 187 " with string beans 1S7 " with tomato sauce 1S7 " " iinanciere style 187 fried, Soubise style 1S8 Indian style ". 1S8 Jardiniere 188 maitre d'hotel 189 " " Marshal style 1S9 " Rachel style 1S9 " Venetian'style 190 deviled ...." [90 fillets, fried 190 " " minute style 190 " " roasted - 191 fore quarter, roasted 19] " fricasseed 191 " " with egg-plant... 191 " haggis . [91 " '• imitation 19a " haricot " hashed 193 " " and fried eggs 193 " " zingara stj te . 193 " haunch roasted 193 INDEX. 895 PAGE. Sheep's hearts stewed -- 193 Irish stew 194 Mutton kidneys, bacon rolls 194 " " broiled, maitre d'hotel 194 » " curried 195 " " deviled 195 " " French style 195 " " fried 195 " " fried with curry sauce 195 " " in border 196 " " on skewers 196 " " in terrine 196 " " stewed 196 " leg boiled with caper sauce 196 " " " " oyster stuffing- . . . 197 " " braised 197 " " " boned, Milanese style. 197 " " provincial style. . " " roasted - " " " boned and stuffed 19S " " " Portuguese style " loin in papers 199 " " roasted rolled.. 199 " " " stuffed 199 " minced 200 neck, Brittany style 200 " " stewed, Ducb( . 200 " on skewers _ __ 201 " patties minced 201 " pies 201 " pilau, Sultana st\ le . 201 " rissoles 202 saddle, braised . 202 " in surprise - . 202 " " roast " " with chestnut puree . 203 " shoulder boned, Prime of Wales style 203 " shoulder braised, boned " " spiced " " stew ed - | " steak, Florentine . 204 " stew " •• farmer's stj le " Turkish...... timbale 205 Sheep's tongues braised with lettm grilled " " in papei - 206 " " stewed " trotters casserole with rice " " poulette... " " vinaigrette 207 Pastry. Almonds 745 to blanch.... .. 745 " to color. " to pound .... 745 Almond croquettes 746 . 7;'' " with Madeira " vanilla cream sauce Biscuits, almond ~ ■,: sponge 747 " champagne 717 PAGE. Biscuits, chocolate 74S " cream 748 " orange 74S " pistachio 748 " raspberry 749 " vanilla 749 " walnut ?nd jam 749 " wine finger. 749 Brandy snaps 750 Cakes, almond. __ 750 American white ... 750 " apricot 750 " bride 751 " carnival .. 751 " Chanlilly __ 751 chestnut . 7-1 chous crisped, pralined with almonds. 752 " " filled with cream . 752 " Christmas . . .. 752 " cinnamon 752 citron " cocoanut " " and orange cream for cakes 753 " coffee 753 " . comic . 753 " cookies, \ 1 u Vear's ..... 754 cornstarch country 1 ream cream puffs Bo-ton delicate " dec Eclairs, coffee or chocolate. 756 " " cream for... 756 " icing for 7 ;'> family .... feulllantines flame 757 fruit 757 . ilettes Jngerbread, American, Southern French. " spiced 7;^ " " wafer 75'y " " with cocoanut 759 " ginger cake 759 loaf snaps ~^> " hazel-nut 7'>o " hickory-nut - 7<*j " home-made 760 " honev 760 jelly. . jelly roll ..... ..761 " Jersey wonders ladies bouchees ... 762 raspberry. lady 7 r '- " " fingers leaf " lemon.. — " " cheese 703 " " puffs.. 763 " roll 763 lunch 7 6 4 macaroon 764 8 9 6 INDEX. PAGE. Cakes, macaroon flavored with chocolate 764 " " " with coffee 764 " " " with lemon 765 " " Mirletons 765 " " Swiss 765 " white 765 •' " with almonds 766 " " with pistachio nuts 766 " Madeleine, Printaniere 766 " " without butter 767 " Meringue . 767 " " cream 767 " " maraschino 768 Millefeuilles 768 " molasses 768 " Nelson 768 " New Year 768 " Nougatinas 769 •• nut 769 " orange 769 " paste, Marzipan 770 " pastry, almond apricot 770 " pistachio 770 plum 771 " pop-overs .771 " Portuguese 771 " pound 771 " " citron 772 " " cocoanut 772 " puff-paste 772 " raisin 772 " ratafias 773 " Savarin 773 " savory 773 " short 773 " peach 7 7i " " strawberry .... 774 " soda 774 spice. _ 774 " sponge . 775 " " almond 77^ Chantilly 775 " St. Honore - 775 tea 777 " Vacherin, Chantilly 777 " vanilla 77S " walnut, large 778 wine.. . 778 Pastry, Genoese 778 Neapolitan 779 " royal 779 Wafers.... — -,:> almond . 779 " chocolate " cinnamon 7S0 " filled with cream " French 780 " lemon. 7S1 " vanilla flavored 7S1 Waffles, American 781 French 781 " raised 781 . almond 782 chopped .- 782 crisp 78a croquante 7^2 ... 7S3 PAGE. Pastes, for cheese cakes 783 " custards or preserved fruits 7S3 " ornamenting tartlets 7S3 " patties 784 " " oyster 784 " pies...". 784 " " meat or game.. 785 " " savory 785 Geneva 7S5 lard 786 made with cream 7S6 puff 7S6 •• half 7S8 " made with beef suet 788 lard 788 oil 788 rice for sweets 788 " for tarts 7S9 short 789 " for savory pies 789 transparent for tartlets 789 Pickles, Condiments, Catsup, Etc. Bottled tomatoes Burnt onions Cayenne pepper. Chow chow Chutney " mango . " tomato Extract of garlic Gherkins Herb flavoring for sauces etc. Catsup cucumber " mushroom " oyster " tomato " w r alnut Parsley juice for coloring Picalilli, tomato Pickle of brine " " for beef " " " hams ' pork " " " tongue.. " " " mackerel ' salmon. . Pickled beet- roots " cabbage, red " " white " cauliflower " celery. _. - corn " cucumbers " " like mango pickles eggs garlic " lemons.. — mangoes mushrooms onions onions and cucumbers onions, SpanUh - - tomatoes French 853 853 853 853 854 854 854 854 855 855 8.SS 855 S55 855 856 8 3 6 8^6 857 857 857 857 SsS 858 858 859 859 86] 861 INDEX. 89; PAGE. Pickles, green 863 " mixed 863 " mustard 863 " nectarine, green 864 " Spanish 864 " tomato, green 864 " walnut 865 Potato yeast.. 865 Preserved green-corn 865 mango 866 " mushrooms -- 866 " parsley for winter use 866 " tomatoes 867 truffles 867 Removing salt from butter 867 Sauce, aristocratic 867 cardinal lish " chef for steaks " gournir " governor's " Harvey . hot ... " Worcestershire 860. Spice, French sausage " kitchen 869 867 868 868 86S 868 mixed Spiced tomatoes Tomato paste 870 Vinegar, celery 870 fine herbs . . garlic - 8 7' horseradish tarragon . 871 tomato walnut Pork. Bacon and eggs and spinach.. 209 boiled and cabbage.. 209 " broiled .. -m<> " broiled, and liver 210 " fried 210 preparing for breakfast 210 tlted, dried and smoked . 210 with macaroni 21 1 Pork, baked 211 broiled, with Chill sauce . 211 " chops, broiled. .. 212 " curried ...... aia cutlets and anchovy sauce .. 212 " " fried JIJ rs, baked 2 i 3 braised 21", " " Lyonese - 213 " feel, boiled 213 broiled 113 " " crepinettes i\\ " " fricasst-td (and ear . 214 " " stewed 2 1 1 " " stuffed, Perigueux 215 " fillets, or tenderloin, broiled J15 " " " hunter's style 215 Ham.., . 215 PAGE. Ham, baked 216 " " stuffed 216 " braised 216 " boiled 216 boned 217 " broiled 217 " cooked in Madeira or champagne ... 217 " croquettes 217 " deviled.. 217 " fried . 217 " frizzled 21S " pie and chicken 218 " roasted 218 " steaks.. 218 Pork, hashed :h; Pig's head, baked 219 boiled 219 " kidneys, maitre d'hotel 219 " " stewed 2ig Pork, leg, roasted ._ 220 " loin, Bordelaise, roasted 220 " " French style, roasted 220 " marinaded, roasted 220 " minced... " pickled 221 " " baked, and beans 221 " " boiled, and cabbage 221 " pie _ 222 " ribs, stewed and stuffed 222 -addle, roasted Sausages, baked ... ... 223 " Bologna " country " deviled " Frankfort . 223 fried meal 224 ham 224 " pork.... 2.'; " boiled in white wine 225 " smoked stewed with cabbage.. " Westphalian _ . 225 Pork shoulder, roasted 226 Suckling pig •• baked. - - 226 " timbale .. 227 l'iu's tails, boiled - 227 Poultry. Capons 276 boiled .. - 276 " " barded, with mushrooms _. 276 braised 277 " " Chipolata style 277 •' financier e _ 277 Godard style . . 278 " " with sweetbreads and truffles 278 " pie 278 roasted. 279 " roasted with noodles 279 stewed, French style . 279 Chicken 279 " bechamel sauce 282 boiled 2S2 " " Providence style 282 " royal style ..." 283 8 9 8 INDEX. PAGE. Chicken, boiled, stuffed 283 " " with onions 283 " " with poulette sauce 283 " with rice 2S3 " " with tarragon sauce 284 " braised 284 " " Montmorency style 284 " " printaniere 284 broiled... 285 " " cutlets 285 " " with bacon 2S5 Capilotade of 285 " croquettes 286 " " Perigourdin 286 " " Queen style 286 " curried 2S6 " " Creole style 287 " " Spanish style 287 " custard 287 " cutlets 2S7 deviled 287 fillets braised 287 " " epigrammes 288 " " fried with mushrooms 288 " larded 2S8 " " Perigord 289 " " Princess style 289 " " sauted 290 " " " royal style 290 " " " with truffle sauce 290 " " Villeroy 290 " " with asparagus 291 " " with mushroom puree 291 " fricassee 291 " " American style 292 " bonne femme 292 " peasant style 292 " fried ." 293 " " Marengo 293 " " Meicier 293 " " Vanderbilt 293 " " with okras 294 " fritters 294 giblet pie 294 " giblets, stewed 294 " grilled, hunter's style 295 " hashed 295 " in shell _ 295 " legs, broiled 295 " " deviled. 296 " " in papers 296 " " Perigueux . 296 " livers in cases 296 " " onske\\cr> . 297 " stewed in Madeira wine 297 " with mushrooms 297 " minced, Polish style .... ... 297 " " with eggs. " patties .. 298 pot-pie .. 298 pilau, Turkish style " quenelles, stuffed . 299 " rissoles " roast .. 300 " " Maryland Style 300 " " with chestnut stuffing 300 " " " 01 ster sauce 300 Chicken, sauted 301 " Bordelaise style 301 " Hungarian style 302 " Marengo . 302 " with tarragon 302 scalloped 302 souffle 302 stewed 303 " cardinal 303 " matelote 303 " Milanese 304 " stuffed Godard 304 " Villeroy 304 " with asparagus 305 " " mushrooms 305 " " tomatoes 305 supreme of 305 " fillets 306 " " Rothschild 306 " " Toulouse 306 timbale 307 turban, Cleveland 307 truffled 308 vol-au-vent 308 " Toulouse 30S Waldorf style 309 Duck braised 309 " " Empressstyle 309 " " with mushrooms . 309 " deviled 310 " giblets stewed 310 " hunter's style 310 " pie 310 " roast 311 " " with orange sauce 311 " salmis 311 " stewed 311 " " with chestnuts 311 " " " olives 311 " with marinaded cucumbers 311 Ducklings curried 312 " fillets with green peas 312 " roasted — 313 " " with apple sauce 313 Giblet pie 3«3 Goose, deviled 313 " fat liver attereaux 314 " " •' croquettes.. 314 " " fried with truffle sauce 314 " " " in shells 314 " giblets stewed with apples 315 " legs deviled 315 " livers stewed 3'5 " pat£ of foies gras 316 pie 3«6 " "giblet.. • 316 " roasted and chestnut stuffing .. 317 " smoked. 3'7 stewed - 3*7 Gosling, baked - - " braised 3'S Pigeon -.- 3'S Bourgeoise 3*8 " braised. ... 3*9 " broiled -- 3'9 •< •• crapaudine in papers . 3*9 INDEX. 899 PAGE. Pigeon, Chartreuse 320 " curried 320 " cutlets 320 " fried 321 Duchess --- 321 " epigrammes 321 financiere 322 " fricandeau . . 322 " fricaseed 322 " fried... - 322 " " with celery.. 323 P'e- 323 " roasted 323 " " stuffed with chestnuts 323 " salmis 324 " stewed with green peas 324 •' stuffed. 324 " timbale with truffles 325 Squab, American style 325 ballotines 325 •' broiled 325 " " on toast with bacon 325 " chipolata 326 " compote 326 " crapaudine 326 pie 326 " roasted — 327 Turkey 327 " boiled 328 " English style 328 " " stuffed with celery 328 " " with oyster sauce 329 " Bourgeoise.. 329 " braised 329 " stuffed with truffles 330 " " with chestnut purge, larded. 330 breast*, Spanish style 330 " croquettes 331 " fillets, Milanese 331 " fricassee 331 g'b'ets 331 " " on skewer- .... .... 332 " stewed with turnips 332 hashed 333 royal.... 333 " with cream 333 legs broiled 333 " deviled 333 " minced with poached eggs 333 Pities _. 334 P' e 334 " roast 334 " financiere 335 " " stuffed with bacon and truffles 335 " " " with chestnuts 335 " " " with oysters 336 " " Turkish style. 336 " scalloped.. 336 " stewed, with celery 337 " " with noodles 337 " Toulouse . 337 Preserves, Jams, Marmalades, Etc. Almond milk 822 Bottled currants, red 822 fruits PAGE. Bottled greengages 822 " pineapple 822 " plums 823 " raspberries 823 " strawberries.. 823 Brandied fruits 823 Brandy, apple. 824 apricot 824 " peach 824 " plum 824 " prune 825 " raspberry 825 Candied nectarines ... 825 " nuts, crystallized 825 " pears . I 826 " plums 826 Conserve of strawberries 826 Dried grape fruit 826 •' greengages 826 " peaches 827 " pineapple 827 Ginger sugar 827 " apple 828 Grapes glazed with sugar _ 828 Jam, American crab-apple 828 " apple 828 " cherry . S28 without sugar 829 " cranberry 829 " currant 829 black S29 " " red 830 " " red and white 830 " gooseberry 830 " grape --- " grapefruit 830 " greengage 831 " nectarine 831 " peach 831 " pear 831 " plum 832 " pineapple 832 " raspberry and cherry 832 " rhubarb 832 " strawberry.- 833 " '• and raspberry 833 Jelly, apple . 833 " calf's feet... 834 " crab-apple, American 834 " cranberry -- — 834 " currant, black 834 j««ce - - 835 red " fruit S35 " gooseberry 835 " grape S3" " guava... 836 " pineapple 836 " quince - " rhubarb -- 837 Lemon mixture for puddings. _. 837 Marmalade apple 837 " apricot 838 cherry 838 " currant, red 838 " lemon 838 orange 839 900 INDEX. PAGE. Marmalade, peach 839 '• pineapple 839 plum 839 " quince- 840 " raspberry 840 " rhubarb 840 Mince-meat 840 " lemon... 841 Orange, ratafia 841 Paste, apricot 841 " chestnut 841 " lemon 842 " pear, candied 842 " plum 842 " quince 842 Pickled grapes 843 peaches 843 " pears 843 " plums - -- 843 Preserved American crab-apples 844 " apples 844 " cherries 844 " chestnuts 844 " cucumbers 845 " currants, red 845 " fruit in ginger syrup 845 " " juice 846 " gooseberries .. 846 " grapes 846 " lemons 846 " nectarines 847 " peaches 847 " pears 847 " pineapple -- 847 " plums 848 " prunes _ 848 " quinces 848 " raspberries 849 " strawberries 849 Strawberry shrub 849 Sugared quinces 8.so Syrup chocolate 850 " currant 850 " currant, red 851 " raspberry 851 " strawberry 851 Vanilla essence 851 " extract .. 851 " flavoring 852 sugar 852 Salads. Dressed salad.. 418 Dressings for salad 418 " cream for salad 418 " " for cucumber salad 419 Salads, anchovy 419 " asparagus, German style.. - 419 " bacon 419 " beef 419 beet-root 420 " Bohemian 420 Brunswick 420 cabbage, red and celery cabbage, white 4-«> " cauliflower 421 PAGE. Salads, celery ^21 " celery with mayonnaise 421 chico'ry .." 421 " chicken a.21 " chiffonade 422 " crab 422 " crayfish with aspic 422 " cress 422 " dandelion 423 " " contoise 423 " demi-devil ^23 •' Dumas „ 423 " Dutch __ 423 egg—-- - 424 egg and beet-root __ 424 " French 424 game 424 " green pea 425 " herring salted 425 " Japanese 425 " Jardiniere 425 leek 426 " lettuce 426 " and tomato __ 426 " lobster 426 " " mayonnaise 427 " macedoine 427 " meat, cold and potatoes 428 " mussel 428 " onion and tomato 428 " " Spanish 428 " oyster 42S " potato 429 " prawn 429 " radish 429 " Russian 429 " with caviar 430 " salmon 430 " salsify 430 " sardine 1, 430 " scallop 430 " shrimp 431 " sorrel 431 " Spanish 431 " string bean 431 " tomato 43c and artichoke 432 " " and cucumber 432 " " in surprise 432 " " with mayonnaise 432 " tongue 432 truffle 433 " " and celery 433 vegetable ." .4 ;.; Waldorf 433 watercress .. 4.;., Sauces and Butters. (See also Stocks.) Butter, anchovy 498 " black or brown " crayfish 498 '* creamed , 198 drawn . -)wS garlic, sauce - .- v*i horseradish lobster - 4 " caviar 126 •' cheese 126 " crab 127 egg 127 " eggs and caviar 127 " lobster 127 " Lorenzo 12S " Madison _ 128 " olive and anchovy 128 " olive and caper 129 " oyster 129 " sardines 129 " smoked salmon 129 " tricolor 129 Caviar, on toast 130 with eggs _. 130 Celery, curling 130 " frizzled 130 serving in a glass 131 Olive custards 131 Olives, stuffed with anchovies.. 131 " " " chestnuts Onions, dressed raw i ,2 Patties 132 " beef marrow 132 Dauphine 132 Dresden 133 financiere 133 " Fontange 134 " lent 134 " vol-au-vent Salad, cheese cucumber Sandwiches, Aberdeen INDEX. 903 PAGE. Sandwiches, Adelaide .- 135 " anchovy 135 " beef tongue 136 " cheese 136 " " Roquefort . 136 " chicken and ham 136 " goose 136 fat liver -- 137 " pickle... 137 " sardine 137 " sausage (German) 137 savory 137 " shrimp 138 turkev 138 veal." 138 Welsh rabbit 138 Sardines in eggs 138 Toasts, anchovy 139 " beef marrow 139 " " tongue 139 " egg and anchovy 139 " lobster 140 " salmon 140 " sardines.. 140 and anchovy 140 " shrimp. 141 Soups. Beef tea.. " jelly Bisque of clams _ " " crabs " " crayfish " " lobster " oysters " tomatoes Broth, barley " beef with vermicelli " chicken " clam-juice " jelly, Palestine stj le " " with macaroni- .. " mutton " plain " tapioca " thickened with eggs .. " veal " vegetable Chowder catfish clam " corn - Consomme - " chicken " Duchess fish... " printanier " royal " with green peas " " pearl barley " " quenellei " " rice and cream Cream of bailey " " cauliflower... " " celerv game " lentils PAGE. Cream of lettuce 18 " " lima beans 19 " •' mushrooms 19 " " potato 19 " "rice 19 " "sorrel 19 " "tapioca 20 •' "tomato 20 Purees, asparagus . 20 " bean, red 20 " cardoons 21 carrot 21 " celery 21 " herbs with vegetables _ 21 vegetable 22 Soups, American 22 " Andalusian 22 " asparagus 22 " barley 23 " bean, black 23 " white 23 bonne femme 23 " Brunoise 24 " cabbage 24 " carrot . 24 " celery 24 '• and onion... 25 " cheese 25 " chicken 25 " " Creole Style 25 " Holland style " " Portuguese style 26 '• Queen style 26 " with leeks . 26 " chiffonade ;'i " clam 26 " clear... 27 " " with nudels 27 Colbert 27 " corn and tomato 27 " crab 28 " croute-au-pot.. .._. 28 " Duchess 28 " duck's giblet 28 farmer's 29 " fish -.. 29 " Flemish 29 " game. 29 " gourmet's. 30 " green pea.. 30 herb with Parmesan cheese. 30 hunter's 31 " Italian 31 " Julienne 31 " lamb 32 lark 32 " leek 32 lettuce 32 " macaroni 33 " macedoine 33 Milanese 33 " mullagatawny.. 33 " mussel — 34 " Neapolitan 34 " noodle 34 " okra -- 35 " onion — 35 9 04 INDEX. PAGE. Soups, onion, Spanish - 35 ox-tail -. 35 " oyster 3° " Parisian — 3^ " Parmesan cheese quenelle 36 " pea 3 6 " peasant 37 " Pomeranian 37 " potato 37 " Pot-au-feu, beef 37 » •■ " French 38 " Princess 38 Quenelle.. 38 " rice-and pea 39 " " tomato.. 39 " Russian, Julienne 39 " sago 4° " sanitary 40 " Solferino - 40 " sorrel - -- 40 Soubise 40 Spanish, Parisian style 41 " tapioca, with tomatoes 41 " terrapin 41 " " mock 42 " tomato 42 " tnmip and rice 42 " turtle, from dried turtle 42 " " mock, French style 43 " " preserved, green 43 " " stock 43 11 vegetable 44 " vermicelli 44 " " Queen style 45 " " with tomato puree 45 " white 45 " Windsor 45 " wine..--- 46 with noques .... 46 " without meat (lean) 46 Stocks. (See also Sauces.) (iame fumet — 491 Glaze for cold fowls 491 " " hams and tongues 491 " " partridges or woodcocks 491 " " turkeys.. 491 Half glaze (demi glaze) .- 492 " " yellow, for cakes. 492 Jell}-, for cold dishes - 492 " savory, as mayonnaise 492 Marinade - 492 " for beef 493 " for lish. 493 " for game -- 493 Mirepoix 493 Stock... ... 493 " crayfish --- 494 dark --- 494 first 495 " French, clear.. 495 game 495 general - 495 gravy mixed 49° PAGE. Stock, second 496 veal or veal blond 496 Veal. Attereaux of veal and ham 22N Veal, blanquette and ham jjS " " with mushrooms in croustade 228 " " with noodles 22S " " with peas ._ " Boudins jj,, Calf's brains, croquettes 229 " " in matelote 229 " " in scallop shells 229 " " poulette style 230 " " with black or brown butter. ... 230 Veal, breast, braised, Milanese 230 " '" poulette 230 " " roasted 231 " Brisotin 231 " " Nantaise 231 " broiled, Venetian style 231 " cannelon of I 231 " chops, broiled 2^2 " " fried 232 " chump, Bourgeoise 232 " " roasted 233 " collops ... 233 " " provincial 2;^ " " with stuffed peppers 233 " cream of 233 " croquettes 233 " curried, Indian style 234 " cushion, Bordelaise 234 " " Duchess 234 " cutlets ... 235 " " baked, with sweet herbs 235 " " braised, larded, with string beans 235 " " broiled 235 " " " with colbert sauce 236 " broiled with tomato sauce " " curried 236 " " Dauphin 236 " " financiere 236 " " forcemeat 237 " " fried with tomatoes j.;; " " in papers " " in surprise 23S Lyonese 23S " " Maintenon 238 " Marechal 238 " " Milanese... " " Perigueux 239 " " provincial " " sauted 240 " " Spanish style ._. 240 " " St. Cloud.'. 240 Calf's ears, financiere 240 " " fried with tomato sauce -• |i " feet as mock terrapin 241 " boiled 241 " fricassee fritters :(i grilled 242 stewed 242 with piquant sauce with poulette sauce INDEX. 905 PAGE. Veal fillet, braised - 242 " " roasted with fine herbs 242 " " with brain fritters . 243 « fricadelles - 243 •■ fricandeau 243 " •• with puree of sorrel 244 " grenadins, chipolata -M4 » " with puree of green peas. .'44 " ham --- 245 " haricot 245 " hashed.-- - -- 245 Calf's head, boiled .-.- 245 « " " with vinaigrette sauce .. -4' 1 « " braised 246 financiere - 246 « " hashed. 246 « " in tortue .. 247 « " royal style -- - H7 » •■ ste'wed 247 Veal in the saucepan - - 248 " Italian style - 248 " kernel, braised, with bechamel sauce .. 248 " " in ballotines.. " " lardiniere -M' sauted 250 " kidney, broiled maitre d'hotel •• "fried fritter -- 250 " knuckle, braised 251 " leg baked with cream sauce .- 251 " " in surprise Calfs liver 252 " •• and bacon in paper cases. 252 " " braised 252 " Brittany style - " " broiled with bacon -. 253 " " curried 253 " " French stvle 253 " " Milanese style 253 " " minced 154 " " stewed Bourgeoise 254 Veal loaf " loin braised... 255 " " farmer's stvle 255 " " roasted 255 " minced, Turkish stvle 255 " " with macaroni 256 " " " mushrooms and cream... 256 " Mireton - 256 Montglas with croutons 256 " neck braised with truffles 257 " " St. Clair... 257 " patties ... 257 " paupiettes 257 " pie, French stvle 25S " " kidney..... 258 " " with ovsters 258 " quenelles 258 " rissoles 259 " rolled. 259 " round, roasted 259 •■ sausages 259 " scalloped 2<«> " shoulder, roasted " spiced.. 260 teak, broiled 260 " stewed 260 PAGB. Veal, stewed, Bourgeoise 2(>i " " breast. 261 " " " Nantaise 261 " " " with turnips 261 " fillet 2<,' " " kernel 262 " knuckle x>2 " •' loin 263 " " Marengo Jo.', neck 263 " " provincial .'>) " " Solferine 264 " " with oyster plant 264 Calf's sweetbreads aiguillettes 264 attereaux 265 braised 265 Montglas 265 " Pompadour 266 broiled colbert... 266 " maitre d'hotel 266 col lops with green peas. . . 266 cream . 266 cromeskies.. 266 croquettes, royal . 267 curried 1 167 cutlets English stvle 267 financiere... 268 fricandeau. _._. 268 fried with Perijjueux sauce 268 in cases... 269 in shells 269 in white sauce 269 larded 269 Montebello. 270 Parisian style 270 patties and" mushrooms 270 pie, financiere 271 Piedmontese 271 ris-ole- 271 scalloped, Richelieu 272 stewed, Catalans 272 Timbale -'7.: toulouse 273 vol-au-vent financiere 273 Waldorf 274 with black butter .. . 274 " mushrooms 274 " tendons, curried :;i " timbales 274 Calf's tongue and brains stewed 275 " " with tomato sauce . 175 Vegetables. Vegetables _ 434 Artichokes, Harigoule 435 " boiled, plain 435 " pu-re'e of 430 " raw 436 " bottoms, stuffed 436 Asparagus, boiled 436 " croustade 436 " Pompadour 437 " with cream 437 " tops, with cream — 437 906 INDEX. PAGE. Beans, black, boiled - 437 " Lima, boiled — 437 " " sauted.. 43^ string, boiled — . 43S " " Bretonne 438 English style 438 " •* sauted in butter 438 " " with cream __ 43S withgravy 439 " " with parsley and butter 439 " white, and boiled pork 439 " " and cream 439 " " stewed.. 439 Beet-roots, baked 440 preparation for the table 440 " sauted in butter 440 with cream 440 Brussels sprouts, boiled 440 '• " maitre d'hotel 440 " " sauted - 441 " " " with cream - 441 Cabbage and cream 441 boiled 441 " stuffed 44! " with cream -- 442 red, pickled, with oysters 442 " stewed 442 Cardoons, baked, with breadcrumbs 442 Spanish style 442 with beef marrow -.. 443 " with cheese 443 with veloute sauce ... 443 Carrot fritters 444 housekeeper's style 444 maitre d'hotel .- 444 mashed 444 poulette style 444 stewed in sugar and cream 444 " with fine herbs 445 Cauliflower, boiled 445 " " American style - 446 •' fritters 446 gratinated 446 in mayonnaise 446 mashed 446 stewed - 447 with cream sauce 447 " with Parmesan cheese 447 Celery, boiled 447 " " braised -- 448 " fried 44S " stewed. -_ .. 448 " with marrow 448 Cepes in shells 448 Chestnuts, boiled as a vegetable - 449 Corn, boiled — 449 " cakes ., ... 449 " fritters - 449 " grated... -. — 45° " mashed ... — 450 " roasted - - - 450 " stewed with cream 450 Cucumbers as cardoons 450 " bechamel 451 " French stvle 451 fried .".- - 451 stewed t.si PAGE. Eggplant, boiled- 451 " " with Parmesan cheese 452 " broiled 452 " fried 45J " " with Parmesan cheese 4^ fritters 453 Lyonese 453 mashed 4^3 " poulette style 453 stewed...". 453 " " with onions 4^4 " stuffed 4^4 Endive, stewed with cream sauce Green peas, ancient style " boiled ... Bourgeoise 455 " buttered 4,5 " English style 455 peasant style 4.56 " puree of 456 •' stewed with bacon " stewed with Spanish sauce 456 Green peppers, stuffed and baked 4,7 Leeks, baked 4:7 " puree of.-. 457 Lentils and bacon 457 " curry 45S " withonions . 458 Lettuces, baked and stuffed 45s " braised " stewed 459 " stuffed, braised 459 Mushrooms, baked in cups . 459 " baked, stuffed " boiled in cream 4(0 " Bordelaise 460 " broiled on toast . 460 " croustades of. .... 460 " deviled- 460 fricassee of 461 " fried on toast 461 " in cases 461 " patties 461 " pie 461 " puree 462 " sauted 462 " " Bordelaise 46a " stewed " " stems... _ 462 " " with cream --... 463 " under glass with cream Okras, sauted Creole style 4^.3 Onions, baked 463 " boiled with cream 463 " fried 4^4 " glazed 4(14 " mashed, Brittany style " " Soublse style " steamed, stuffed " stewed _ " stuffed Onions Spanish, baked, stuffed 465 " boiled... " " fried Oyster-plant, boiled - fried " " poulette 466 INDEX. 907 PAGE. Oyster-plant, sauted 466 Parsnips, baked 466 boiled 467 broiled 467 fried.- 467 fritters 467 mashed -.. 467 Potatoes and onions sauted 467 and parsley 466 baked 468 " with breadcrumbs 468 balls 46S Barigoule 468 boiled 469 " new 469 borders 469 broiled 469 browned 469 cake 470 casserole of 470 cheesecakes 470 chip — . 470 creamed 471 croquettes. — 471 croustade 471 curried 471 Duchess 472 for entrees 472 fried 472 ^astronomical 472 Genevoise style 472 glazed .' 473 in cases 473 in the oven 473 Julienne Style 473 Loulou 473 Lyonese ..- 474 maitre d'hotel 474 mashed 474 nests 474 provincial 475 quenelles 47; rissoles 475 Sarah sauted 475 475 stewed ^-(> 476 j-tra\ surprise 476 Waldorf 476 sweet, broiled 476 " roasted 477 " SOuffled 477 " waffles 477 pkin fritters 477 mashed 477 - 477 47« ' stewed el, lean PAGE. Sorrel, puree with hard-boiled eggs 478 " stewed 478 Sourcrout ..... 478 " boiled 479 *' with apples 479 " " goose, Roumanian " " pork and sausages 479 Spinach 470 " k la mode 480 " croustades . 480 " minced 480 " with cream 480 Squash, boiled 481 " mashed 481 " stewed .--. 481 Succotash 481 Sweet peppers, sauted 481 Tomatoes, Andalusian style. 482 " and eggs 482 baked 482 Bock style 48a " broiled 4S2 " deviled.. 4IS- fried 483 Marseilles style .,S;, " on toast 4 s ; pilau -- 4 s o " stewed 484 " " sweet 484 stuffed 4S4 " with sago 4S4 " with spaghetti 484 Turnips, glazed.. 4S5 " in batter — " mashed 4*s " stewed, with sugar _ --- 485 stuffed ... " with cream 4$<> Turnip tops --- 4 8f> ■• boiled 48/' " " mashed 4S6 Truffle* 486 " baked -- " boiled 4S7 broiled 48/ " cooked in champagne " incases _ 4N7 in croustades " Italian style 4SS " stewed, on crust... 4^'< stuffed - 489 " timbale of 4 s '' Vegetable macedoine -- 489 puree 4 s '' Watercress, German mode 490 " stewed 490