when you leave, please leave this book Because it has been said "Ever'thing comes t' him who waits fxcept a loaned book." Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library Gift of Seymour B. Durst Old York Library iTiCOXDEKOGA iWJ. 1^. I'ortEdH'ani Sar, 4s L irinffsteru Maiur Jihyniftii \aa. Cuuuui Wiifiantf J ' Ifar ^ fyoodstvcJi- J Tfrert/hani .iiwor' 4 Veil- 5=5^ »t Newport^ (ap.- Cod '^4 fP M fMaidenhead Pert Red Bank PjfIL.IDEI.PHfA \ c Vftape May 0 0^ A' ' ■ " Vv TRAVELS I N NORTH-AMERICA, IN THE YEARS I780, I781, AND I782. B Y T H E MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX, ONE OF THE FORTY MEMBERS OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY, AND MAJOR GENERAL IN THE FRENCH ARMY, SERVING UNDER THE COUl^T DE ROCHAMBEAU. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY AN ENGLISH GENTLEMAN, WHO RESIDED IN AMERICA AT THAT PERIOD. WITH NOTES BY THE TRANSLATOR. JlcKTioov l^ccvj^cjoiTMV 'Ihv (x,£Tc(x, ywii voov syvoc. Odyfley. B.I. Multorumqiie hominum vidit urbes, & mores cognovit. VOLUME L LONDON: PRINTED FOR G. G. J. AND J. ROBINSON,^ PATER-NOSTER ROW, ^^ DCC LXXXVII. )is>> ADVERTISEMENT F R O M T H E FRENCH PRINTER. ' I ^HE Public have been long inform- J- ed that the Marquis de Chaftellux had written Journals of his Travels in North America, and they feem to have wifhed to fee thofe Journals mofe generally diffufed. The Author, who had arranged them folely for himfelf and for his friends, has conllantly refufed to make them pub- lic until this moment. The firft and moft conliderable, in faft, were printed in Ame- rica ; but only twenty-four impreffions were flruck off, and this with no other view than to avoid the multiplying of copies, which were become indifpenfably neceifary, in a country and at a time when there was very little hope of any packets reaching Europe, but by the means of duplicates. Befides that, he thought proper to avail himfelf of the fmall printing prefs on board the fquadron at Rhode Ifland. Of thefe twenty-four impreffions, not above ten or A 2 tweivc; iv ADVERTISEMENT FROM twelve reached Europe, and the Author had addreffed them all to perfons on whom he could rely, and whom he had requeft- ed not to fufFer any copies to be taken. The curiofity, however, which every thing refpeding America at that time infpired, excited much anxiety to read them. They paflTed fucceffively through a great many hands, and there is reafon to believe that the readers have not all been equally fcru- pulous ; nor can it even be doubted that there exifl fome manufcript copies, which being haltily executed, may be prefumed to be incorreft. In the fpring of 1782, the Marquis de Chaftellux made a journey into Upper Vir- ginia; and, in the autumn of the fame year, another into the States of Maffachuf- fets, and New Hampfhire, and the back part of Pennfy Ivania. According to cuftom, he wrote journals of thefe expeditions ; but, being on his return to Europe, he referved them to himfelf. Thefe therefore are known only to a few friends, to whom he lent them ; for he invariably denied the re- queft of many perfons, and particularly our own. THE FRENCH PRINTER. v own, to empower us to lay them before the Pubhc. One of his friends however, who has a very extenhve correfpondence in foreign countries, having prelfed him much to furnifh him with at leaft a few detached extrafts from the fe journals, for the purpofe of inferting them in a perio- dical work printed at Gotha, the objed of which is to colled: fuch works as have not been made public, he confented ; and, during a whole year, there appeared in each number of this Journal a few pages taken here and there from thofe of the Marquis de Chaftellux. Thefe extradb were not in a regular feries, and were indifferently taken from the firft and fecond parts of the Travels. The Author had ufed this pre- caution, to prevent the foreign bookfellers from colle6ling them, and impoling them on the public as a complete work. Expe- rience has proved the infufficiency of this precaution. A printer of CalTel, without any fcruple, has coUefted thefe detached extracts, and without announcing that they had no coherency, has printed them under the title of Voyages de Monfieur le Chevalier de Chajlellux^ the name the author bore two years ago. The vl ADVERTISEMENT, &c. The publication of a work fo mutilated and unmethodical, and which the Marquis de Chaflellux by no means expelled, fo far from flattering, could not but be difpleafmg to him. We deemed this a proper oppor- tunity for renewing our inftances to him, and have, in confequence, obtained his ori- ginal manufcript, to which he has been pleafed to annex the charts and plans we have made ufe of. We have loft no time m giving it to the public, and have exert- ed the utmoft pains to render it, from the execution, worthy of the importance of the fubje6l, and of the name and reputation of the Author. The two geographical charts point out, with the greateft accuracy, not only the country which the Author has travelled through, but all the places at which he flopped, and which he has mentioned in his Journals. For the two charts, we are in great meafure indebted to M. Dezoteux, Captain of Dragoons, and joint Quarter* Mafler, who has corrected and reduced them. This officer having ferved in Ame- rica, had himfelf viflted the greateft part of the country pointed out in the charts. CONTENTS TO THE FIRST VOLUME^ Page THE Author leaves Newport the iith of November - - - 4 His arrival at Providence : defcription of that town - - - 6, 7 He is obliged to remain at Voluntown - 9 Defcription of the inn where he alights ibid. The perfons whom he met with - lO His departure from Voluntown - 20 Defcription of the country betwixt Voluntown and Windham - - 2l&feq* Mrs. Hill's tavern, her charity to a fick foldier - - - 25 The Author ftops at Eaft Hartford - 26 Particulars of the ftate of Vermont - 27 The origin of the name which this ftate has aflumed - - - 28 His arrival at Hartford - - 29 Lodges at Colonel Wadfworth's - ibid. Portrait of the Colonel - - 30&feq. Vifit to Governor Trumbull • - 33 A 4 The viii CONTENTS. Page The Governor's memoirs on the American war 34 Communicated to the Author - ibid. An interefting fail contained in them - 35 Departure from Hartford - - 36 Defcription of the country betwixt Hartford and Farmington - - 37 Manufadure of cloth, &c. - - 38&req, The Author lodges with Mr. Lewis, to whom he was addrefTed - - 40 He fets out for Litchfield - - 41 Defcription of a blue Jay which he killed ibid. Obfervations on the nomenclature of the Americans - - - 42 They fcarcely employ other but defcriptive terms, as blue bird, black bird, inftead of Jay, Starling, &c. - - 43 The Author fees fome ground cleared and a new fettlement - - 44 How they proceed to clear the ground - 45&feq. His arrival at Litchfield - - 48 Park of Artillery which he meets with near the high road _ _ _ - 49 & feq. The route from Litchfield to Moorhoufe's tavern, and the townfliip of Wafiiington 53 Beautiful landfcapes formed by a fall of water, and by the forges of Mr. Bull - 56 Arrival at the tavern kept by Colonel Moor 57 The Author finds there farmers from New Hampfliire conducing oxen to the army 58 Converfati on with them - - 59 & feq. He arrives at Fifhkill - - 63 Defcription of the barracks conftru6led there, as a magazine for the army - 64&feq. Departure from Fifhkill - - - 69 Little camp, or barracks for the invalids, and what we are to underfland by invalids 70 The Author flops and alights to enjoy the beautiful profpe6ls which the North River, and the Forts of Weft Point offered - 71 A little further he finds General Heath at the head of 2500 men in battle array - 72 He crofles North River in General Heath's barge, and lands at Weft Point - 73 I'hs CONTENTS. is Page The General fliews him the dlfpofition which he has made for a manoeuvre combined with the great army, and com- municates to him the orders given to Ge- neral Stark - _ _ 75&feq. particulars of General Heath - 78&feq. The Author goes on horfeback to fee the dif- ferent fortifications of Weft Point - 8i Defcription of them - _ - 82&feq, He leaves Weft Point - - 87 Breakfafts before he fets out according to the faftiion of the country, with beef-ftcaks, and milk coffee for drink - - 88 He defcends the North River in a barge - 89 Defcription of the country - - ibid. Fort Clinton, how attacked and taken - go Particulars of King's Ferry, Stoney Point, and Verplank's Point - - gi &feq. Colonel Livingfton had fome fufpicion of Arnold's treafon, and thought of taking the Vulture Hoop of war - « &feq. The Author arrives at the camp of the Mar- ^ quis de la Fayette - - lOi Defcription of the camp - - I03&feq, He continues his journey to join General Waftiington at Praknefs - - 108 Defcription of the catara6l, known by the name of TotohawFall - - log&feq. His arrival at head quarters - - General Wafliington's reception of him 1 14 The General ftiews him the American army in battle array - - iig&feq. The Author vifits the American general officers - - - - 122 Particulars of thefe officers - - 130 Sees a young man of a Dutch family with a monftrous head - - - 131 Particular account of General Knox - 132 Departure from Praknefs - - 136 Charafter of General Wafliington - i37&feq. Colonel Mayland accompanies the Author 141 Thev X CONTENTl Page They ftop at Morris Town - - 143 The Colonel engages the Author, the follow- ing day, to dine with his father-in-law, Mr. Vanhorn - - - 147 They pafs over the ancient camp at Mid- dlebrook _ « _ _ 148 Arrival at Mr. Vanhorn's - - 149 Who acquaints them that General Lincoln . and Lord Cornwallis were at his houfe the fameday - - - 151 &feq. Defcription of the country betwixt Mr. Vanhorn's houfe, and Gregg Town ; as alfo of feveral pofitions occupied by the Englifh _ . - I56&:feq4 The Author goes to Prince Town, de- fcription of its college, or univer- flty _ - - 160 In what manner the ftudies are diftributed there - - - - 161 Defcription of the country where the battles of Prince Town were fought - 164 Particulars of thefe battles - - 166 The Author arrives at Trenton - 169 Pofition of th& Heffians v.'hen they laid down their arms - ' - - 170 Remarks on this event - - 171 He goes to Briflol, where he flops to dine - - - 172 Defcription of the country betwixt Briftol and Philadelphia - - 173 He arrives at Philadelphia - 1 74 Alights at the Chevalier de la Luzerne's 177 With what people he dined - 178 Obfervations of fome cuftoms peculiar to the Americans - - l84&feq. The Author is prefented to feveral families 188 Amongft others to Mrs. Bache, daughter of the celebrated Do£lor Franklin - 197 He finds her employed in colleding the fliirts made by the Phiiadelphian ladies 4 themfelves. CONTENTS. xl Page themfelves, for the foldiers of the Penn- fylvania legion - - - 198 He makes acquaintance with Mr. Robert Morris, afterwards Financier General igg&feq: He reconnoitres the field of battle of Ger- man Town - - 205 Particulars of that a£l:ion - - 208 &feq. He pays a vifit to Mr. Samuel Adams - 220 Anecdote of an American whofe two fons had deferted, and who, after he had ar- refted them, condu6led them himfelf to their General - - - 221 He goes to fee the town-houfe, and the halls in which Congrefs affembles - 222 &feq. The next day he affifts at the AfTembly of the States of Pennfylvania - - 226 He goes to fee Mr. Cimetiere's cabinet of natural hiftory - - 228 The famous Orrery of Mr. Rittenhoufe - 229 Mr. Showel's anatomies - - 232 The Author leaves Philadelphia with feveral French officers to vifit the field of battle at Brandywine - - 235 Account of that battle - - 244 They return to fleep at Chefter - - 249 Which they leave the next morning to return to Philadelphia, and remount the river in barges fent to meet them - - 252 Defcription of the fort of Billingfport - 253 Defcription of fort Mifflin on Mud Ifland - - - 254 The Delaware barricaded by chevaux de frife - - > 255 &feq. Redbank fort _ _ - 260 Relation of the fruitlefs attack made on that fort by Colonel Donop - - 262 &feq. The Author's return to Philadelphia - 267 Has a particular converfation with Mr. Samuel Adams _ _ _ 268 Who difclofes to him the principles of the revolution of America - « ibid. / xii CONTENTS. And the plan of the new conftitution of Maffachuflet's Bay _ _ _ 269 & feq. He is at a ball at the Chevalier de la Lu- zerne's - - - 276 The American cuftom is for the parties to dance together the whole evening - 277 Converfation of the Author with one of the Chiefs of the Quaker fe£l - 278 &;feq. He aflifts the next day at a Quaker's meet- ing, and at the Englifh church - 286 The Author returns to German Town - 290 The fame day he goes to White Marfh, and reconnoitres the camp occupied by the Englifh in 1777 - - 291 An affembly of different perfons of both fexes at an American lady's - 293 The Author goes with the Marquis de la Fayette to view the pofition of Barren Hill, where the Marquis was near being furrounded in 1778, and which he efcaped by making a judicious retreat - - 296&feq. On his return he vifited the lines made by the Englifh to cover Philadelphia - 303 Converfation with Mr. Peters, fecretary at war - _ _ 305 He pays a vifit to Mr. Payne, the Author of Common Senfe - - 310 Charafler of that celebrated writer - 311 Subfcription ball - - - 314 A ridiculous ftory of the mafter of the ceremonies - - - 316 The fitting of the academy of Philadelphia 317 The Author quits Philadelphia, feparates with reluilance from the Chevalier de la Luzerne, eulogium of that minifler 322 Obfervations on Philadelphia - 324&fcq, The Author, who flept at Prince Town, is obliged to remain there the bell part of the morning, waiting for the horfes of his attendants - - 334 His CONTENTS. Page His landlord is a Colonel in the militia - 337 Courageous a£lion of his fon - 338 How he entered into the fervice - 339 The road from Prince Town to Bafken- ridge ~ - - 340 The cuftom of the Americans when they want bread is to fupply it by cakes, which they make immediately ibid. Road from Balkenridge to Pompton 34? Farms and fine tillage of the Dutch efta- bliflied in that country - - 342 Mr. Courtheath's tavern - - ibid. The Author finds there feveral claffical books, and two well educated young ladies - - ^ 343 Obfervations upon the Clove - — 345 A very favage country which the Author was obliged to crofs over 346 The forges of Mrs. Erfkine - 347 He meets in the middle of the woods, with two young children returning from fchool _ - ^ 3^g Reflexions on the refources of every kind which are to be found in America - ibid. The Author arrives at New Windfor - 349 The new fentiment he feels on again feeing General Wafhington - 350 After having pafied two days at New Windfor, he continues his route to Albany » _ _ 3^3 He crolles the river in General Wafli- irigton's^ barge, who accompanies him to the 9ppofite fhore - - 354 Mr. Pride's tavern - - 355 Remark's on the agriculture of Duchefs County, in which this tavern is fituated - 356 Whimfical mirtake of a Dutchman, whom the Author met at a place called Stratf- borough _ _ _ 3^8 Bad weather obliges the Author to flop at Thomas's tavern - - 360 Converfation with the landlord - ibid. xiv CONTENTS. Paee An account of the trade of Canada ' - 361 Anecdote of Arnold - - 362 & feq. The road from Thomas's inn to Kinder Hook - - - 366 The curiofities which a large rock fituated near to Claverack prefents . - 367 &feq. The Author arrives at Albany - 371 He finds it difficult to pafs the North River vfhofe fliores are already covered with floating ice - - 373 Invited to dinner by General Schuyler, who fends his fledges for him - 374 Particulars of the General and his family - 375 He forms the proje£l of going the next day to Saratoga, to efcape the fnows which cover this country during the months of January, February and March, and which began already to fall - - - 377 He fets out in very bad weather - 379 Defcription of the country which he traverfes _ _ _ ibid, Defcription of the great catara6l, called Cohoes-Fall _ _ _ 380 No poffibility of pafling the Mohawk River 382 He is obliged to return to Albany - 383 Interefting converfation with General Schuyler „ „ _ 384 He communicates to the Author different plans for carrying on the war in Canada 385 & feq* Journey to Schene£lady - - 398 Obfervations on the Indians - 401 Defcription of one of their huts - 402&fcq, The Author fets out from Albany with General Schuyler to go to Saratoga - 406 In paffing the River Mohawk, the horfes belonging to one of the fledges fmk under the ice - - 4^7 In what manner they were extricated - 408 Defcription of the intreiiched camp on Brcams'a CONTENTS. XV Page Breams's Heights, occupied by General Gates, in the year 1777 - 410 Relati on of the different battles which hap- pened the fame year, betwixt the armies of the Generals Gates and Burgoyne 412 Arrival at Saratoga - - - 415 Journey to fort Edward - - 416 And to the great cataradl on the North Ri- ver, and the houfe of Mifs Mac Rea - 417 The tragical end of that American lady 418 &feq. He reconnoitres the pofition occupied by General Burgoyne, when he laid down his arms _ . . _ 425&feq|. Anecdotes on that event - - 433&;feq, Return to Albany - - 436 The manner in Vv^hich the inhabitants of the town celebrate New Year's Day - 439&feq, Obftacles occafioned by the thaw on depart- ing from Albany - - 442 The horfes of one of the fledges fmk again in the river - - 443 Taverns at Noble Town and Sheffield 444 The Author finds at the latter, upon the table, the Abridgment of Newton's Philofophy 445 The Author croffes the green woods, and defcribes the country, which appears a frightful defcrt - - 447 Finds however fomebody to repair his fledge almofl: as foon as it was broken - ibid. He arrives at New Hartford - 449 Difficulty of being lodged - - ibid. Singular converfation with his hofl:efs, about a woman who waited upon him - 450 &feq. An extraordinary rock which he fees on the road to Hartford - - - 453 The Author flays at Lebanon - 455 Squirrel hunting - 456&feq. He returns to Newport after having flropt at Voluntown and Providence - 461 Vol I J>erby 'Philadelphia Jialtir. Elk ruiffi- Willis ordin. Chcaiolt^toH'n Louisa Cmv i Iwiuc Hanoi-ff iiUtrthoiue W5 IjOtrUfert J'taJcf or'elterf v;/ lU'ch/nond I'c/cMhourn ) J/qtmf ^Delamire • X ? DEL AWARE \ Bay / m Si C ape CKartPs C ape 5fa s ^ v c ART' T/fE xJorR.y Marqxiis de •rrFrASTEJ.LUX 4c> \\vAf.''/JK% ft f 'X T R A V E L S 1 N NORTH-AMERICA. Journey from Newport to Philadelphia^ Albany, &c, FR O M my landing at Newport, on the nth of July, it was hardly poffible for me to be abfent even for two days. On the 19th of that month the Englifli fleet began to fliew itfelf before the port ; the next day we reckoned two and twenty fail, and a few days after, we learnt that the enemy were embarking troops, nor were we informed before the middle of Vol. I. B Auguft 2 TRAVELS IN Auguft of their being again difembarked at New York, and on Long Ifland. But ftill it appeared by no means clear that they had abandoned their undertaking: we re- ceived every day frefh advices, which be- fpoke new embarkations ; on our part we were adding to our fortifications, and our ftill recent eftablifliment furnifhed me with daily employment of fuch a nature as not to admit of my abfence. M. de Rochambeau, who had long propofed vifit- ing his pofts at Providence, was unable to carry his project into execution before the 30th of Auguft. I accompanied him, and we returned the next day On the 1 8th of September he fet out for Hartford in Connedicut, with the Admiral Chevalier de Ternay, where General Waftiington had given him a rendezvous. I did not attend him in this journey, and as fortune would have * Let the Englifti reader conje6lure from what this General Officer has faid, and from what he has probably thought proper not to fay, whether Sir H. Clinton, and Admiral Arbuthnot, and even, the great Rodney were very enterprizing Officers, See the Gazette difpatches of the day. Translator. N O R T H . A M E R I C A. 3 have it, we found ourfelves in the moft critical fituation in which we had been fmce our arrival. The general belief at Rhode Ifland was, that M. de Guichen, who we knew had quitted St. Domingo, was coming to join us, and we expected to go into immediate action. On the 1 9th, we found that inftead of M. de Guichen, Admiral Rodney was arrived at New York with ten fhips of the line. Not the fmalleft doubt was entertained amongft us of an attack upon the French fleet, and even the army. The veifels in confequence were laid acrofs the harbour, with firings on their cables, and their anchorage was pro- tected by new batteries, which were con- ftruCted with great judgment and celerity. In the beginning of October, the feafon being then advanced, without any thing ' being undertaken by Admiral Rodney, we had reafon to exped: that we fhould remain quiet for the remainder of the year, and our fole occupation was in preparing win- ter quarters for the troops. They took polTeflion of them the ift of November; and I might now without riik have ab- B 2 fented 4. TRAVELS IN fented myfelf from the army ; but not wifliing to fhew too much anxiety, and delirous of feeing difcipline, and the ar-^ rangements relative to the cantonments well eftabUflied, I deferred until the nth fetting out on a long tour upon the con- tinent. I left Rhode Ifland that day with Mr. Lynch and M. de Montefquieu,* who had each of them a fervant. I had three, one of whom had a led horfe, and another drove a fmall cart, which I was advifed to take, to convey my portmanteaus, and to avoid hurting my horfes in thej journey. It was then a hard froft, the earth was covered with fnow, and the north eafterly wind blew very fharp. In going from Briftol to the Ferry, I went out of my way to view the fortifications of But/hill, and I reached the ferry at half paft eleven t. The * Both of thefe Gentlemen were made Colonels en fecond, on their return to Europe; the flrft of the regiment of Walfli, and the fecond, of the regiment of Bourbonnois. t The ferries are over arms of the fea, as well as rivers, and the boats have either fails or oars. NORTH-AMERICA. 5 The paflage was long and difficult, becaufe the wind was contrary. We were obliged to make three tacks, and it was necefiary to make two trips, to pafs over our horfes, and the cart. At two o'clock I arrived at Warren, a fmall town in the ftate of Maflachuflets, eighteen miles diftant from Newport. I alighted at a good inn, the mafter of which, called Buhr, is remarkable for his enormous fize, as well as that of his wife, his fon, and all his family. My intention was only to have baited my horfes, but the cold continuing to increafe, and the cart not arriving before three o'clock, I gave up all thoughts of going to fleep at Providence, and I determined to ftay at Warren, where I was in very good quarters. After dinner I went to the bank of the little river Harrington, which runs near this town, to fee a floop come in which had arrived from Port au Prince. This floop belonged to Mr. Porter, Brigadier- General of the Militia, nephew to Mr. Buhr, and ftill more bulky than himfelf. Colonel Green, whom I met upon the quay, made me acquainted with Mr. Porter, and B 3 we 6 TRAVELSIN we drank tea with him, in a limple, but comfortable houfe, the infide, and inha- bitants of which prefented a fpecimen of American manners. The 1 2th I fet out at half pall eight for Providence, where I arrived at noon. I alighted at the College, that is to fay, at our Hofpital, which I examined, and dined with Mr. Blanchard, CommilTary of war. At half paft four I went to Colonel Bowen's, where I had lodged in my firft journey; I drank tea there with feveral ladies, one of whom, rather handfome, was called Mifs Angel. I was then conducted to Mrs. Varnum's, where I again found company, and from thence to Governor Bowen's, who gave me a bed. The 13th I breakfafted with Colonel Peck : He is an amiable and polite young man, who palTed the laft fummer with General Heath at Newport. Pie received me in a charming fmall houfe, where he lived with his wife, who is young alfo, and has a pleafing countenance, but with- out any thing ftriking. This little eftablifh- inent, where comfort and fimplicity reign, I gave NORTH- AMERICA. 7 gave an idea of that fweet and ferene ftate of happinefs, which appears to have taken refuge in the New World, after compound- ing it with pleafure, to which it has left the Old. The town of Providence is built on the bank of a river only fix miles long, and which difembogues itfelf in the Gulph wherein are Rhode Ifland, Connedlicut, Pro- vidence, &c. It has only one ftreet, which is very long: the fuburb, which is con- fiderable, is on the other fide of the river. This town is handfome, the houfes are not fpacious, but well-built, and properly ar- ranged within. It is pent in between two chains of mountains, one to the north, and the other to the fouth-weft, which caufe% an infupportable heat in fummer; but it is expofed to the north-weft wind, which rakes it from one end to the other, and renders it extremely cold in v/inter. It may contain two thoufand five hundred in-» habitants. Its fituation is very advantage- ous for commerce ; which accordingly is very confiderable in times of peace. Mer- chant fiiips may load and unload their car- B 4 goes g TRAVELSIN goes in the town itfelf, and fliips of war cannot approach the harbour. Their com- merce is the fame with that of Rhode Ifland and Bofton ; they export flaves, and fait provifions, and bring back fait, and a great quantity of melaffes, fugar, and other articles from the Weft Indies : they fit out velTels alfo for the cod and whale fifhery. The latter is carried on fuccefs- fully between Cape Cod and Long Ifland ; but they go often as far as Baffin's Streights, and Falkland's Ifland. The inhabitants of Providence, like thofe of Newport, alfo carry on the Guinea trade ; they buy flaves there and carry them to the Weft-Indies, where they take bills of. exchange on Old England, for which they receive woollens, Huffs, and other merchandize *, On * Here are feveral places of public worfhip, an univerfity, and other public buildings; and a very brifk trade was carried on even at the worft period of the war for American commerce, viz. in 1782.— Mr, Welcome, Arnold^ a great plumber, and Delegate to Congrefs from this ftate, has changed his name by aa of Aflem-bly, fmce the defeaion of Benedici Arnold. Translator, NORTH-AMERICA. 9 On quitting Colonel Peck, I mounted my horfe for Volmtown^ where I propofed fleeping. I flopped at Seituate, in a very indifferent inn, called the Angel's I'avern ; it is about half way to Voluntown : I baited my horfes there, and fet out in an hour, without feeing my cart arrive. From this place to Voluntown the road is execrable ; one is perpetually mounting and defcend- ing, and always on the moft rugged roads. It was fix o'clock, and the night clofed in, when I reached Dorrances Tavern^ which is only five and twenty miles from Provi- dence. I difm.ounted v/ith the more plea- sure as the weather was extremely bad. I was well accommodated, and kindly received at Mr. Dorrance's. He is an old gentle- man of feventy-three years of age, tall, and flill vigorous ; he is a native of Ireland, firil fettled in MaffachufTets, and afterwards in Connedicut. His wife, who is younger than him, is adive, handy, and obliging ; but her family is charming. It confifts of two young men, one twenty-eight, and the other twenty-one years old ; a child of twelve, and two girls from eigh- teen 10 TRAVELS IN teen to twenty, as handfome as angels. The eldeft of thefe young women was fick, kept her chamber, and did not fhew herfelf. I learnt afterwards that fhe was big with child, and almoft ready to lye-in : fhe was deceived by a young man, who after promifmg to marry her, abfented himfelf and did not return.* Chagrin and the * On the arrival of feven or eight copies of this Journal, fent to Europe by the author, the curiofity then excited by every thing relative to the afFairs of America, procured them many readers. Though the author had addreffed them only to his moft in- timate friends, and had taken the precaution to ap- prize them that it was not his intention they fhould be generally public, they paffed rapidly from one hand to another} and as they could only be lent for a fhort time, they were read with as much precipita- • tion, as avidity. This anxiety could only proceed from the general defire of forming fome idea of the manners of the Americans, of which this Journal gave feveral details which became intercfting from tlie circumftances of novelty and diftance. From an inconfiftency, however, more ufual in France than in any other country, fome perfons made no • fcruple to judge the author on points of propriety, of which he alone was capable of giving them an idea : he was taxed with ' wantonnefs and indifcretion, for having concealed neither names nor places in re- NORTH-AMERIC A, it the confequences of her fituation had thrown her into a ftate of languor; fhe iiever came down to the ground-floor on which lating the adventure of a girl deceived by her lover. A very fimple, and very natural refledion might have convinced them, that it was by no means pro- bable that a General Officer, a man of forty-five years of age, particularly connected with the Americans, and who has every where exprefied fentiments of gratitude and attachment for thofe from whom he ex- perienced kindnefs, fliould allow himfelf, not only t6 offend, but to afflifl an honefl family, v/ho had ftiewn him every attention, and of whom he cannot fpeak but in terms of commendation. Befides that the fimple and even ferious manner in which this article is written, afrords not the leaft appearance of levity ; a fufHcient reafon for preventing the too free obfer- vations of certain readers. Another 'refle£lion might occur naturally enough, but which demanded a little more combination. The author wiflies, it might have been faid, to give us an idea of American man- ners, which he is certainly very far from fatirizing : may it not be pofTible that amongft a people fo re- mote from us in every refpeil, a girl who ftiould refign herfelf too haftily to the man fhe was en- gaged to, with the confent even of her parents, a girl without diftruft, in a country v/here fuch an idea is never taught them, where morals are fo far in their infancy, as that the commerce between two free 12 TRAVELSIN which her parents lived ; but great care was taken of her, and fhe had always fome- body to keep her company. Whilft a . s good perfons is deemed leifs jcenfurable, than the infidelities, the caprices, and ^jeven the coquetries which de- ftroy the peace of fo many European families ? May it not be poflible that this young woman, as intereft- ing as flie was unhappy, fhould be lamented rather than condemned, that flie fliould ftill retain all her rights in focicty, and become a legitimate fpoufe and mother, though her ftory was neither unknown, nor attempted to be concealed ? In fa6t, how could the author learn this hiftory i Was it by the fcandalous chronicles in a hamlet where he was a ftranger to every perfon but his hofts? / have fince learnt (fays he in fpeak-. ing of this girl) that Jhe was with ch'ild^ and near her time of lying-in. How did he learn this ? From her own parents, who had not at firft made a myftery of it, and then a matter of confidence. But had thefe auftere judges, when they had finifhed their read- ing, happened to recolle6i: what they faw at the be- girming, they might have obferved that the author being at Voluntown a fecond time, ^wo months after, faw Mifs Dorrance fuckling an infant, which was continually palling from her. knees to thofe of her mother ; that flie was then cherifhed, and taken care of by all the family. This affcding fight was de- fcribed with fenfibility, and not with malignity. But it is time to give over tiring the patience, not of the NORTH-AMERICA. 13 good fupper was preparing for me, I went into the room where the family was af- fembled, where I obferved a fhelf with forty- critics only, but of all fenfible minds, thofe minds alone whofe approbation is of any value. On another journey to Voluntown, the author had the fatisfailion to fee Mifs Dorrance perfcfhly happy : her lover w&s returned, and had married her; he had expiated all his wrongs, nor had they been fuch as they at firft appeared ; he had unfortunate circumftances to plead in his excufe, if there can indeed be any for a man who for a fmgle day can leave in fuch agonies, the in- terefting and weak victim who was unable to refift him. The Tranflator, who has been at Voluntown, and enjoyed the fociety and witneffed the happinefs of this amiable family, is likewife acquainted with the whole of this ftory. He is fo well fatisfied with the juftnefs of the liberal minded author's reafoning on Ameri- can manners in this particular, that he has not fcru- pled to give the name of this worthy family at length, not apprehending that their charafters would fuffer the fmalleft injury, where alone the imputation is of any confequence ; nor does he fear oppofmg the virtue of this family, and of thefe manners, to European chaftity, prudery, and refinement. The circumftances of this 14 TRAVELSIN forty or fifty volumes on it ; on opening them I found that they were all claffical authors, Greek, Latin, or Englifh. They belonged to Mr. Dorrance's eldeft fon. This young man had received a regular education, and was tutor at Providence col^ lege, until the war interrupted his ftudies. I converfed with him on various points of literature, and particularly on the man- ner in which the dead languages fhould be pro- ftory were related to the Tranflator by Mr. and Mrs.* Porrance, with the fame fenfibility, and the fame hi-- nocence, with which they appear to have told them to the Marquis de Chaftelleux. They are a kind, hofpi- table, and amiable couple, and the hufband is very far from being ill informed ; he entertained the Tranflator with many anecdotes of the war, and with fome laughable ones refpeiling General Prefect, who was brought to his houfe, after being carried off without his breeches from Rhode Ifland j but never without expreffing a becoming degree of fenfibility for his fituation, which was peculiarly mortifying, from his gout, his naturally peevifti difpofition, the humiliating mode of his capture, and the circumftance of its be- ing the fecond time of his falling into the hands of an enemy, whom he was weak enough to defpife and to infult. Translator. NORTH-AMERICA. 15 pronounced. I found him well informed, and poffeffed of much fimplicity and modefty.* We were waited on at fupper by a moft beautiful girl, called Mifs Pearce, She was a neighbour of Mrs. Dorrance, and had come on a vifit, and to affift her in the al)- fence of her youngeft daughter. This young perfon had, like all the American women, a very decent, nay even ferious carriage ; flie had no objedion to be looked at, nor to have her beauty commended, nor even to receive a few carefles, provided It was done without an air of familiarity or libertinifm. Licentious manners, in fa(3:, are fo foreign in America, that the com- munication with young women leads to no- thing bad, and that freedom itfelf there bears * The Tranflator had a great deal of converfatlon with this young man, and found him fuch as the Marquis reprefents him ; but he muft likewife add, that he met with a great number of excellent claffical icholars, in different parts of the continent, educated at Williamlhurgh, Philadelphia, Yale College, New- haven, Cambridge, and Providence, and very few de- ficient, efpecially to the northward. The war did in- finite mifchief to the rifing generation of America, by interrupting education. Translator. i6 TRAVELSIN bears a charad:er of modefty far beyond oiif aflfedie'd bafhfulnefs and falfe referve. But neither my excellent fupper, nor the books of Mr. Dorrance, nor even the fine eyes of Mifs Pearce, made my cart arrive, and I was obliged to go to reft without hearing any news of it. As I defired a chamber with a fire in it, Mifs Pearce prepared me one, informing me at the fame time, that it communicated with that of the fick lady with whom fhe flept, and inquired of me very politely, v/hether it would incommode me if Ihe fliould pafs through my chamber after I was in bed. I affured her, that if fhe difturbed my fleep, it would not be as a frightful dream. And, in fad:, fhe came a quarter of an hour after I was in bed. I pretended to fleep, in order to examine her countenance ; fhe paiTed very gently, turn- ing her head the other way, and hiding the light .for fear of awakening me. I do not know whether I fhall pronounce my praife or condemnation, by faying, that I foon after fell into a profound fleep. On my xifing I found Mifs Pearce, but not my cart, which it feemed more than probable NORTH-AMERICA. 17 probable was broke into a thoufand pieces. I was determined to give lip that mode of conveying my little baggage, which ftill it was neceflary to have. I refolved, therefore, to wait for them, and take my breakfaft, a refolution much eafier" adopted. At length, about eleven o'clock, my centinels announced its appearance. It was matter of great joy to the whole crew to fee it arrive, although crippled, and towed by a hired horfe, which they had been obliged to put before mine. It is proper to obferve, that my attendants, proud of pofTefling ample means of tranfporting my efFeds, had loaded it with many ufelefs articles; that being apprized myfelf that wine was not always to be met with in the inns,* I had thought proper to furnifh myfelf * The tranflator, when he travelled in America during the war, always carried wine with him when pradicablej for at Baltimore and Philadelphia, thofe great fea-ports, very indifferent wine, cailed claret, was fold at two dollars^ upwards of 9 fliillings a bot» tie, hard money. Nor was it an uncommon thing to tranfport wine from Bofton to Philadelphia by land, when the arrivals were more fortunate in that quarter/ Translator. Vol. I, C i8 T R A V E L S I H myfelf with cantines which held twelve bottles, and having taken the precaution to afk for two or three white loaves of bread from the commiflary of provifions at Provi- dence, he had packed up twenty, which alone weighed upwards of eighty pounds, fo that my poor cart was laden till on the point of fmking. Its greateft misfortune, however, arofe from ftriking on the rocks, which had broke one wheel and greatly damaged the other. I foon determined to leave it with Mr. Dorrance, who under- took to get it repaired, and it was refolved that my wine fhould be divided into three parts, one of which fhould be drank the fam.e day, the other left with the landlord, with a requeft to keep it till my return, and that the third fhould be offered him, with a requefl to drink it ; which met with no difliculty. The remainder of the day, however, being dedicated to make new dif- pofitions, I determined on remaining at Vo- luntown. I made a general infpedion of my baggage ; every thing unneceffary was packed up and left with Mr. Dorrance ; the refl put into portmanteaus, and by a pro- NORTH-AMERICA. ig a promotion a la PruJJienne^ on the field of battle, my cart-horfe was elevated to the faddle. The reading of fome Englifh poets, and the converfation with Meflrs. Lynch and Montefquieu, and the good people of the houfe, made me pafs the day very agreeably. Towards the evening, two tra- vellers came into the room I was in, feated themfelves by the fire, and began to yawn and whiftle, without paying the leaft at- tention to me. The converfation, however^ gradually enlivened, and became very in- terefting and agreeable. One of them was a colonel of militia, who had ferved in Ca- nada, and had been in feveral engagements, wherein he was wounded. I fhall obferve once for all, that among the men I have met with, above twenty years of age, of whatfoever condition, I have not found two who have not borne arms, heard the: whiftling of balls, and even received fome wounds; fo that it may be afferted that North-America is entirely military, and inured to war, and that new levies may con- tinually be made without making new fol- diers. [The Tranilator confirms this affer- C 2 tion. 10 TRAVELSIN tion, except with regard to the pacific religi- ous fed:s, in the whole extent of his obferva- tions from Virginia to New Hamplhire.] The 15th, I fet out from Voluntown at eight in the morning. I travelled five miles in the mountains, after which I faw the horizon expand itfelf, and my eye very foon had its full fcope. On defcending- the hills, and before we reach the valley, is the town or hamlet of Plalnfieldi for what is called in America, a town or town- JJnp^ is only a certain number of houfes, difperfed over a great fpace, but which be- long to the fame incorporation, and fend deputies to the general alTembly of the ftate. The centre or head quarters of thefe towns, is the meeting-houfe or church. This church ftands fometimes fmgle, and is fometimes furrounded by four or five houfes only ; whence it happens, that when a traveller afks the queftion, Mow far is it io fuch a town ? He is anfwered, Tou are there already ; but when he fpecifies the place he wiflies to be at, whether it be the meet- ing, or fuch a tavern, he not unfrequently 16 told, Tou are /even or eight miles from it. Plainfield NORTH-AMERICA. 21 Plainfield is a fmall town, but a large dlftn£t, for there are full thirty houfes within reach of the meeting.* Its fituation is agree- able ; but it prefents, befides, a military afped: : this was the firft I had remarked. An army might encamp there on little heights, behind which the hills rife in an amphitheatre, thus prefenting fucceffive pofitions as far as the great woods, which would ferve as the laft retreat. The foot of the heights of Plainfield is fortified by morafTes, only paffable by one caufeway, which would oblige the enemy to file off to attack you. f The right and left are fupported by efcarpments. On the right alfo is a marfti, which renders it more dif- ficult of accefs. This camp is fit for fix, eight, or even ten tlioufand men ; it might ferve to cover Providence and Maf- C 3 fachuffet's * There is an academy or college here, with four Latin and Englifh mafters, and when the tranflator was there, he was prefent at fome, not contemptible, public exhibitions of oratory in thofe two languages. Trans- lator. t In fu'mmer thefe morafTes are dry. This I have fmce learnt, and which it is proper to remark, that an erroneous idea may not be formed of this pofition. 22 . TRAVELS IN fachuflet's ftate, againft troops who had palTed the Connedicut river. At two miles from Plainfield the road turns towards the north, and after travelHng two or three miles farther, is the river of Quenebaiigh, along the edge of which we travel about a mile to pafs it at Canterbury^ over a pretty- long, and tolerably conftrudited wooden bridge. This river is neither navigable nor fordable, but flows amidfl: ftones, which renders its bed very uneven. The inha- bitants of the neighbourhood, form dams here in the fliape of a projedling angle to catch the eels : the fummit of the angle is in the middle of the river ; there they place nets in the fhape of a purfe, v^rhere the iilh which follow the current of water feldom efcape being caught. The bridge at Canterbury is built in rather a deep and narrow valley. The meeting-houfe of the town is on the right bank, as well as the greateft part of the houfes, but there are lome alfo on the eminences towards the eaft, which appeared to me well built and agreepJoly fituated. Thefe heights being of the fame elevation with thofe to the weft. NORTH-AMERICA. 23 weft,* Canterbury offers two pofitlons, equally advantageous for two armies, which might difpute the paflage of the Quene- baugh. After paffing Canterbury, we en- ter the woods, and a chain of hills, which muft be paffed by very rugged and difficult roads. Six or feven miles farther, the country begins to open, and we defcend agreeably to Windham. It is a very hand- fome little towm, or rather it is the flock from which a handfome town will fpring. There are forty or fifty houfes pretty near each other, and fo fituated as to prefent the appearance of a large public fquare, and three large ftreets. The Seunganick, or Windham river, runs near this town, but is of no great ufe to its trade, for it is no C 4 more * The tranflator reached Canterbury on Sunday^ a day on which travelliqg is forbid in the New England ftates. The family at Buckhoiife's Tavern were ail at meeting, and it cofl: him innumerable entreaties, befides the mofl unequivocal proofs of tvhiggifm^ to procure a morfel of the moft wretched fare, and to obtain which he was obliged to wait till the meeting was at an end. Both this town and Windham are moi\ beautifully fituated, particularly the latter, which is extremely pidurefquc. I a4 TRAVELS IN ^nore navigable than the Quenebaugh, with which it joins its waters to form the rher 'Thames. It may be obferved in read- ing this journal, and ftill more by the in- fpedion of the Charts, that the rivers in general, and many towns, have retained their Indian names : this nomenclature has fomething interefting in it, as it con- firms the ftill recent origin of thefe mul- tiplied fettlements, and is perpetually pre- fenting to the mind a very ftriking contraft between the former, and prefent ftate of this vaft country. Windham is fifteen miles from Volun- town. I there found Lauzun's huifars, who were ftationed in it for a week, until their quarters werp prepared at Lei^anon. I dined with the Duke de Lauzun, and being un- able to get away before half after three, the night, which foon came on, obliged me to ftop at fix miles from Windham, at a little fohtary tavern, * kept by Mrs. Hill. As * This tavern is called Lebanon Cranky and the tranflator has made fimilar remarks in his journal on the external appearance of, and the kindnefs that reigns within this little hut j where, a yery uncommon NORTH-AMERICA. 25 As the houfe had an IndifFerent appearance, I afked if we could have beds, the only want we had ; for the Duke de Lauzun's dinner had left us in no uneafinefs about fupper. Mrs. Hill told me, after the man- ner of the country, that fhe could only Jpare one bed, as fhe had a fick traveller in the houfe whom fhe would not difturb. This traveller was a poor foldier of the conti- nental army, who was going home on a fur- lough for the benefit of his health. He had his furlough in his pocket in regular form, as well as the exail account of what was due to him, but he had not a farthing either in paper or in hard money. Mrs. Hill, notwithftanding, had given him a good bed, and as he was too ill to continue his journey, fhe had kept him, and taken care of him for four days. We arranged matters in the beft way we could : the foldier kept his bed. I gave him fome money to help him on his journey, and Mrs. Hill appeared to • me circumftance at that time, he found excellent green tea, and fine loaf fugar. He faw Mrs. Hill too feed, and relieve a travelling foldier. Translator. 26 TRAVELS IN me much more afFedled with this charity, than with the good bard money I gave her to pay her bill. The 1 6th, at eight in the morning, I took leave of my kind landlady, and followed the road to Hartford, beginning my journey on foot, on account of the extreme coldnefs of the morning. After defcending by a gentle declivity for about two miles, I got into a pretty narrow, but agreeable and well cultivated valley : it is watered by a rivulet which falls into the Seungafiklz, and which is decorated with the name of Hope river \ we follow this valley to Bolton town, or l^ownjlnp^ which has nothing remark- able. There we travcrfe a chain of pretty lofty mountains, which extend from north to fouth like all the hills in Connedicut. On quitting thefe mountains, we come to the firll houfes of ILaJi Hartford, Though we were but five miles from Hartford Court Hoife^ we wifhed to reft our horfes, which had travelled twenty-three miles on a* ftretch. The inn we flopped at was kept by Mr. Marfh : he is, according to the Englifh phrafe, a good farmer 5 that is, a good NORTH^AMERICA. 27 good cultivator. He told me that he had begun a fettlement in the ftate of Vermont^ where he had purchafed two hundred acres of land for forty dollars, about two hundred livres of our money, or fomething more than eight pounds Englilh. The ftate of Vermont is a vaft country, fituated to the eaftward of New Hampfhire and Mafla- chufTets, and to the north of Conneclicut, between the river of that name, and Hud-- fon's river. As it is lately peopled, and has always been an objed: of contention between the ftates of New York, and New^- Hampihire, there is, properly fpeaking, no eftabliihed government. Ethan Allen^ cele- brated for the expedition he undertook in 1775 againft Ticonderago, of his ow^n accord, and without any other aid than that of the volunteers who followed him, has made himfelf the chief of that country. He has formed there an alTembly of repre- fentatives ; this aifembly grants lands, and Xhe country is governed by its own laws, without having any connedion with con- grefs. The inhabitants however are not the iefs enemies of the Englilh 5 but under the ^8 TRAVELS IN the pretext that they form the frontier againft Canada, and are obliged to guard it, they furnifh no contingent to the ex- pences of the war. They had long no other name than that of Green Mountainboys^ but thinking this too ignoble an appellation for their new deftiny, they tranflated Green Mountain into French ; which made Ferd Mont, and by corruption Vermont. It re- mains to be feen whether it is by corruption alfo that this country has aflumed the title of ihe Jiate of Vermont*. About four in the evening, I arrived at Hartford ferry, after travelling over a very inconvenient road, a great part of which forms a narrow caufeway through a marfhy wood. "We pafs this ferry, like all the others * In the years 1780, 1781, and 1782, the inhabitants of Vermont, who were not guided by Ethan Allen, annually fent deputies to congrefs, and were once within $ne vote of carrying their point ; but had not the peace taken place, it is probable from circumftances, that in cafe of refufal, they would at leaji have threatened to put themfelves under Britifh proteftion, an event to which the Marquis feems to allude. Translator, NORTH-AMERICA. 29 others in America*, in a flat boat with oars. I found the inns at Hartford fo full that it was impoffible to procure a lodging. The four eaftern ftates of MaflachulFets, New • Hampfhire, Rhode Ifland, and Connedi- cut were then holding their affembhes in that town. Thefe four ftates have long maintained a particular connexion with each other, and they m^et together by de- puties, fometimes in one ftate, fometimes in another. Each legiflature fends depu- ties. In a circumftance, fo uncommon in America, as room being wanted for men colleded together, Colonel Wadfworth's houfe offered me a moft agreeable afylum ; I lodged with him, as well as the Duke de Lauzun, who had paffed me on the road. Mr. Dumas t» who belonged to the ftaff of the * At the Moravian fcttlement of Bethlehem is a ferry - pafled by ropes, like that oppofite the invalid hofpital at Paris, and many others in France, and other parts of Europe. Translator. t The tranflator had the pleafure of meeting with this accomplifhed officer, at Baltimore, at Bofton, and in Europe. Nature has been very favourable to his exterior, and he unites to the moft perfe£l good man- ners, and a thorough knowledge of the world, and books, the moft unexampled adivity in his profeffion. Tjranslator. 30 1' R A V E L S I N the army, and was then attached to the Duke de Lauzim, Mr. Lynch and Mr. dc Montefquieu were well accommodated in the neighbourhood. Colonel Wadfworth is about two and thirty, very tall and well made, and has a noble as well as agreeable countenance. He lived formerly on Long Ifland ; and from his infancy was engaged in commerce and navigation : he had already made feveral voyages to the Coaft of Guinea and the Weft Indies, when according to the Ame- rican exprcffion, the prefent contcjlation be- gan. He then ferved in the army, and was in feveral actions ; but General Wafti- ington difcovering that his talents might be ftill more ufefully employed, made him Commiifary of provilions. This is a mili- tary poft in iVmerica, and thofe who fill it, are as much refpeded as the firft officer of the line. The Commiffary General is charged with all the purchafes, and the Quarter Mafter with all the conveyances ; it is the latter who marks out the ground, eftabiiflies, the magazines, provides car- riages, and diftributes ttie rations : it is alfo NORTH-AMERICA. 31 alfo on his receipts and orders that the Paymafters "make their payments ; he is, in fhort, properly fpeaking, a Military In- tendant, while the Commiflary General may be compared to a Munhlonnaire with us, who fhould undertake to provide fo- rage as well as provifions. I think this arrangement as good as ours, though thefe departments have not been exempt from abufes, and even blame in the courfe of the prefent w^ar ; but it muft be obferved, that whenever the government wants political force, and the treafury is without money^ the adminiftration of affairs is always ruin- ous, and often culpable. This refleclion alone will afford fufficient fdbjed: for the eulogium of Col. Wadfworth, when it is known that throughout all America, there is not one voice againft him, and that his name is never pronounced without the homage due to his talents and his probity. The particular confidence of General Waihing- ton puts the feal upon his merit *. The Marquis * The tranflator cannot forbear adding his tefti- mony to this brilUant but exaggerated eislogium. Translator. 32 1^ R A V E L S I N Marquis de la Fayette judged extfemely well therefore in getting Mr. de Corny to em- ploy him, in furnifhing the provifions ne- ceiTary for the French troops which were then expected. As fdon as they were dif- embarked at Rhode Ifland, he again propofed him as the moft proper man in the world to affift them in all their wants, but thofe who had the dirediion of the army did not at that time think proper to employ him. They even conceived fome fufpicions of him, from falfe ideas, and eagerly fubftituted for a Com- milTary of underftanding and reputation, undertakers, without fortune, and without charadler ; who promifed every thing, per- formed nothing, and foon threw our affairs into confufion ; firft by augmenting the price of articles by purchafes haftily made, and frequently in oppofition one to another, and finally by throwing into circulation, and offering at a great difcount, the bills of exchange they had engaged to receive for two-thirds of all their payments. Thefe bargains and contrads fucceeded eventual^ ly fo ill, that we were obliged, but too late, to have recourfe to Mr. Wadfworth, who . NORTH-AMERICA. 33 who refumed the affairs with as much noble- nefs as he had quitted them ; always as fu- perior to injuries by his charader, as he is by his talents to the innumerable obftacles that furround him. Another interefting perfonage was then at Hartford, and I went to pay him a vifit : this was Governor Trumbull ; Governor, excellence^ for he has been fo thefe fifteen years, having been always rechofen at the end of every two years, and equally pof^ feffing the public efteem under the Englifh government, and under that of the Con-* grefs. He is feventy years old ; his whole life is confecrated to bufmefs, which he pafTionately loves, whether important or not ; or rather^ with refped; to him, there is none of the latter defcription. He has all the fmiplicity in his drefs, all the impor- tance, and even pedantry becoming the great magiftrate of a fmall republic. He brought to my mind the burgomafters of Holland in the time of the Heinfiufes and the Barne- velts. I had been informed that he was employed in a hiftory of the prefent revo- lution, and I was curious to read this work ; Vol. I. D I told 34 TRAVELSIN I told him that I hoped to fee him on my return at Lebanon (his place of abode), and that I fliould then requeft permiflion to look over his manufcript ; but he affured me that he had only written the introdudion, which he had addrelTed to the Chevalier de la Luzerne, our ambalTador. I procured it during my ftay at Philadelphia, but it is only an hiftorical recapitulation, rather fu- perficial, and by no means free from par- tiality in the manner of reprefenting the events of the war. The only interefting fa£l I found in it, was in the journal of a Governor Winthrop^ in the year 1670, where he fays, that the members of the council of MaflachulTets, being advifed by their friends in London to addrefs themfelves to the par- liament, to whom the King then left a great deal of authority, as the beft means of ob- taining the redrefs of fome grievances, ths council, after mature deliberation, thought proper to decline the propofal,, refledting, that if they put themfelves once under the protedion of parliament, they {hould be obliged to fubmit to all the laws that afTem- bly might impofe, whether on the nation in NORTH-AMERICA. 35 in general, or on the colonies in particular. Now, nothing can more ftrongly prove, that thefe colonies, even in the very origin, never acknowledged the authority of parliament, nor imagined they could be bound by laws of their making. The 1 7th, in the morning, I parted with regret from my hoft and the Duke de Lau- zun ; but it was not till after breakfaft, for it is a thing unheard of in America to fet off without breakfaft. By this indifpenfable delay I had an opportunity of making ac- quaintance with General Parfons, He ap- peared to me a fenfible man, and he is fo efteemed in his country ; but he has had little opportunity of difplaying great mili- tary talents ; he was, in fa£t, what one muft never be, in war, or in any thing, unfortunate. His outfet was on Long Ifland, where he was taken, and he has fmce been in all the bad affairs, fo that he is better known for his capacity in bufmefs, than for the fhare he has had in the events of the war. The road I had to travel becoming hence- D 2 forth 36 TRAVELSIN forth difficult and rather defert, it was deter- mined that I fhould not exceed ten miles that day, that I might meet with good quarters ; and* get my horfes in order for the next day's journey. The place I was to flop at was Farm'mgton. Mr. Wadfworth, fearing I Ihould not find a good inn there, gave me a letter of recommendation to one of his relations of the name of Lewis, where he affured me I fhould be well received, with- out incommoding any perfon, and without ftraightening myfelf, for that I fhould pay my reckoning as at an inn. In fad, when the taverns are bad, or that they are fo fituated as not to fuit the convenience of the traveller, it is the cuflom in America, to afic for quarters of fome individual at his eafe, who can fpare room in his houfe for you, and can give ftabling for your horfes : the traveller and his hoft then converfe together on equal terms ; but he is paid merely as an inn-keeper. The town of Hartford does not merit any attention either in travelling through, or in fpeaking of it. It confifts of a very • long I NORTH-AMERICA. 37 long ftreet, parallel with the river; it is pretty regular and conneded, that is, the houfes are not diftant from each other. But it has many appendages; every thing is Hartford fix leagues round ; but Eaft Hart- ford, Weft Hartford, and New Hartford are diftina towns, though compofed of houfes fcattered through the country. I have al- ready mentioned what conftitutes a town ; it is to have one or two meetings, par- ticular affemblies, and the right of fending deputies to the general alTembly. Thefe town/hips may be compared to the curiae of the Romans. From a very lofty plain on the road to Farmington, one difcovers not only ' all the Hartfords, but all that part of the continent watered by the river of that name, fituated between the eaftern and weftern chains of mountains. This place is called Rocky-hill. The houfes of Weft Hartford, frequently difperfed, and fome- m times grouped together, and every where adorned with trees and meadows, form of the road to Farmington fuch a garden, in the Englifh ftyle, as it would be di£Ficult for art to imitate. Their inhabitants add D 3 fome 3§ TRAVELSIN fome induftry likewife to the'r rich Oilture ; fome common cloths and other woollen - fluffs are fabricated here, but of a good wear, and fufficient to clothe the people who live in the country, or in any other town than Boflon, New York, and Philadelphia. I went into a houfe where they were pre- paring and dying the cloth, This cloth is made by the people of the country, and is then fent to thefe little manufactories, where they are dreffed, prefTed, and dyed for two {hillings, lawful money^ per yard, which makes about thirty-five fols French, or feventeen-pence Englifh, the Conne<0:i- cut pound being equal to fomething^ more than three dollars. I reached Farmington at three in the afternoon. It is a pretty little • town, with a handfome meeting-houfe, and fifty houfes colleded, all neat and well built. It is fituated on the declivity of the mountains : the river which bears the fame name runs at the foot of them, and turns towards the north, without fliewing it- felf ; but the view of the valley is not- wlthflanding very agreeable. After dif- mounting, I took advantage of the good weather. NORTH-AMERICA. 39 weather, to take a walk in the ftreets, or rather in the highways. I faw through the windows of a houfe that they were working at fome trade ; I entered, and found them making a fort of camblet, as well as another woollen ftufF with blue and white ftripes for women's drefs : thefe fluffs are fold at three fhillings and fix-pence the yard lawful money, or about two and twenty-pence Englifh. The fons and grandfons of the family were at work : one workman can eafily make five yards a day. The prime coft of the materials being only one fhilling currency^ the day's work may amount to ten or twelve. On my return from this walk I found an excellent dinner prepared for me, without my having faid a word to the family. After dinner, aboul the clofe of the day, Mr. Lewis, who had been abroad on his affairs during a part of the day, came into the parlour where I was, feated himfelf by the fire, lighted his pipe, and entered into converfation with me. I found him an adive and intelligent man, well acquamted with public affairs, and with Jiis own : he carried on a trade of cattle, D 4 like « 40 TRAVELSIN like all the farmers of Connedicut ; he was then employed in furnifhing provifions for the army, and was principally taken up in flaughtering, and faking cattle for the ftate of Connedicut to be fent to FiJJoMU For each ftate is obliged to furnifh not only money, but other articles for the army : thofe to the eaftward fupply it with cattle, rum, and fait ; and thofe to the weft ward with flour and forage, Mr. Lewis has borne arms alfo for his country: he was at the affairs of Long Ifland and Saratoga, of which he gave me an exa£t account ; in the laft he ferved as a volunteer;. At tea time Mrs. Lewis and her fifter-in-law gave us their company. Mrs. Lewis had juft recovered from lying-in, and had her child in her arms : £he is near thirty, with a very agreeable face, and fo amiable, and fo polite a carriage, as to prefent a picture of decency itfelf, in every country in the world. The converfation was mtereftingly fiipported the whole evening. The family retired at nine o'clock ; I did not fee them in the morning, and paid my bill to the feryants : it was neither dea: nor cheap, but NORTH-AMERICA. 41 but the juft price of every thing, regulated without intereft, and without compli- ments. I got on horfeback at eight o'clock on the 1 8th, and at the diftance of a mile fell in with the river of Farmington, along which I rode for fome time. There was nothing interefting in this part of my journey, except that having fired my piftol at a jay, to my great aftonifhment the bird fell. This had been for many days an object of curiofity with me, and it is really a mofl: beautiful creature. It is quite blue, but it unites all the various fbades of that colour fo as to furpafs the invention of art, and be very difficult of imitation. I muft remark by the bye, that the Americans call it only by the name of the blue-bird^ though it is a real jay ; but the Americans are far from being fuccefsful in enriching their native language. On every thing which wanted an Englifh name, they have bellowed only a fmiple defcriptive one : the jay is the blue bird, the cardinal, the red bird ; every water bird is a duck, from the teal to the canard de dois^ and to the large 4* T R A V E L S I l^ x^ large black duck which we have ^ot m Europe. They cail them, red ducks, ^-^lack ducks, wood ducks. It is the fame witl^ re-^ fped to their trees ; the pine, the cyprd^fles, the firs, are all comprehended under the general name of pine-trees ; and if the peo- ple characterize any particular tree, it is from the ufe to which it is applied, as the wall-nut,^ from its ferving to the con- ftiTidion of wooden houfes. I could cite many other examples, but it is fufEcient to obferve, that this poverty of language proves how much men's attention has been employed in objeds of utility, and how much at the fame time it has been cir- cumfcribed by the only prevailing intereft, the defire of augmenting wealth, rather by dint of labour, than by induftry. But to, return to my jay ; I refolved to make a tro- phy of it, in the manner of the favages, by fcalping it of its fl^in and feathers; and,, content * Here the Author is a little inaccurate refpecSting the Englifti language, as the fame word wall-nut, is applied to the fame tree in Englifh, and with no refer- ^ncq whatever to any fuch ufe. Translator, NORTH-AMERICA. 4.3 content with my vldory, I purfued my journey, which foon brought me amidft the fteepeft and moft difficult mountains I had yet feen. They are covered with woods as old as the creation, but which do not differ from ours. Thefe hills, heaped confufedly one upon another, oblige you to be continually mounting and defcend- ing, without your being able to diftinguifh, in this wild region, the furamit, which rifmg above the reft, announces to you a conclufion to your labours. This diforder of Nature reminded me of the lefTons of him whom fhe has chofen for her confident and interpreter. The vifion of Mr. de Buffon appeared to me in thefe ancient deferts. He feemed to be in his proper element, and to point out to me, under a flight cruft formed by the deftrudion of vegetables, the inequality of a globe of glafs, which has cooled after a long fufion. The waters, faid he, have done nothing here ; look around you, you will not find a fingle calcareous fl:one ; every thing is quartz, granite, or flint. I made experi- pients on the ftones with aquafortis, and 1 I could 44 TRAVELSIN I could not help concluding, what has not obtained fufficient credit in Europe, not only that he fpeaks well, but that he is always in the right. While I was meditating on the great procefs of Nature, which employs fifty thoufand years in rendering the earth habi- table, a new fpedlacle, well calculated as a contraft to thofe which I had been con- templating, fixed my attention, and ex- cited my curiofity : this was the work of a fmgle man, who in the fpace of a year had cut down feveral ai^ents of wood, and had built himfelf a houfe in the middle of a pretty extenfive territory he had already cleared. I faw, for the firft time, what I have fmce obferved a hundred times ; for, in fad:, whatever mountains I have climbed, whatever forefts I have traverfed, whatever bye-paths I have followed, I have never travelled three miles without meeting with a new fettlement, either beginning to take form, or already in cultivation. The fol- lowing is the manner of proceeding in thefe improvements, or new fettlements. Any man who is able to procure a capital of five or NORTH-AMERICA. 45 or fix hundred livres of our money, or about twenty-five pounds fterling, and who has ftrength and inclination to work, may go into the woods and purchafe a por- tion of one hundred and fifty or two hun- dred acres of land, which feldom cofts him more than a dollar or four {hillings and fix-pence an acre, a fmall part of which only he pays in ready money. There he conducts a cow, fome pigs, or a full fow, and two indifferent horfes which do not coft him more than four guineas each. To thefe precautions he adds that of having a provifion of flour and cyder. Provided with this firft capital, he begins by felling all the fmaller trees, and fome ftrong branches of the large ones : thefe he makes ufe of as fences to the firft field he wifhes to clear ; he next boldly attacks thofe im- menfe oaks, or pines, which one would take for the ancient lords of the territory he is ufiirping ; he ftrips them of their bark, or lays them open all round with his axe. Thefe trees mortally wounded, are the next fpring robbed of their honors ; their leaves no longer fpring, their branches fall, 46 TRAVELSIN fall, and their trunk becomes a hideous Ikeleton. This trunk ftill feems to brave the efforts of the new colonift ; but where there are the fmalleft chinks or crevices, it is furrounded by fire, and the flames con- fume what the iron was unable to deftroy. But it is enough for the fmall trees to be felled, and the great ones to lofe their fap. This objed: completed, 'the ground is cleared ; the air and the fun begin to operate upon that earth which is wholly formed of rotten vegetables, and teems with the latent principles of produdion. The grafs grows rapidly ; there is pafturage for the cattle the very firfl year ; after which they are left to increafe, or frefli ones are brought, and they are employed in tilling a piece of ground which yields the enormous increafe of twenty or thirty fold. The next year the fame courfe is repeated ; when, at the end of two years, the planter has wherewithal to fubfifl, and even to fend fome articles to market : at the end of four or five years, he completes the payment of his land, and finds himfelf a comfortable planter. Then his dwelling, which KORTH-AMERIC A. 47 which at firft was no better than a large hut formed by a fquare of the trunks of trees, placed one upon another, with the intervals filled by mud, changes into a handfome wooden houfe, where he con- trives more convenient, and certainly much cleaner apartments than thofe in the greateft part of our fmall towns. This is the work of three weeks or a month. His firft habi- tation, that of eight and forty hours. I fliall be afked, perhaps, how one man, or one family can be fo quickly lodged? I arifwer, that In America a man is never alone, never an ifolated being. The neighbours, for they are every where to be found, make it a point of hofpitality to aid the new farmer. A calk of cyder drank in common, and with' gaiety, or a gallon of rum, are the only recompenfe for thefe fervices. Such are the means by which North-America, which one hundred years ago was nothing but a vaft foreft, is peo- pled with three millions of inhabitants ; and fuch is the immenfe, and certain be- nefit of agriculture, that notwithftanding the war, it not only maintains itfelf where- ever 48 TRAVELSIN ever it has been eftabliflied, but it extends to places which feem the leaft favourable to its introduction. Four years ago one might have travelled ten miles in the w^oods I traverfed, without feeing a fmgle habita- tion. Harrington is the firft iownjlo'ip I met with on my road. This place is fixteen miles from Farmington, and eight from Litch- field. Four miles before we come to this laft town, we pafs a wooden bridge over the river of Waterbury ; this river is pretty large, but not navigable. Litchfield, or the Meetlng-houfe of Litchfield, is fituated on a large plain more elevated than the fur- rounding heights ; about fifty houfes pretty near each other, with a large fquare, or ra- ther area, in the middle, announces the pro- grefs of this town, which is already the county town ; for America is divided into diftricts, called Counties, in fome Provinces, as in England. It is in the capital of thefe counties that the court of feffions is held, where the Sheriff prefides, and where the Chief Judges come every four months to decide civil and criminal affairs. Half a mile NORTH-AMERICA. 49 mile on this fide of Litchfield, I remarked, on the right, a barrack, furrounded by palifades;> which appeared to me like a guard-hoiife ; I approached it, and faw in this fmall inclofure ten pieces of brafs cannon, a mortar, and a fwivel. This I learnt was a part of Burgoyne's artillery, which fell to the fhare of the ftate of Con- nedlicut, and was kept in this place as the mod conveniently fituated for the army, and at the fame time the lead expofed to the incurfions of the Englifli. It was four o'clock, and the weather very bad, when I came near the houfe of a Mr. Seymom', to whom Mr. Lewis had given me a letter, alTuring me that I fhould find better accommodation than at the taverns ; but Mr. Lynch, who had gone on a little before to make inquiries, informed me, that Mr. Seymour was from home, and that from all appearance his wife would be much embju'ralfed to receive us. The American women, in fa6t, are very little accuftomed to give themfelves trouble, either of mind or body ; the care of their children, that of making tea, and Voi, I. E feeing 50 'I' R A V E L S I N feeing the houfe kept clean, conftitu^cs the whole of their domeftic province. I determined therefore to go ftraight to the tavern, where I was ftill unhicky enough not to find Mr. Philips the landlord : fa that I was received, at leaft, with indif-' ference, which often happens in the inns' in America, when they are not in much frequented frtuations: travellers are there' confidered as giving them more trouble than money/ The reafon of this is, that the inn-keepers are all of them cuftivators,^ at their eafe, who do not ftand in need of this flight profit : the greateft number of thofe who foiiov/ this profefTion are everr compelled to it by the laws of the country wkich have wifely provided, that on ail the great roads there fhall he a public houfe' at the end of every fix miles, for the ac- commodation of travellers. A ftill greater difficulty I had at Mrs.- Philips's, wa&, to find room for nine horfes I had with me. The Quarter-Mafter at length made them place fome of them in' the liable of a private perfon, and every thing was arranged to my fatisfa^tion, and that KORTH-AMERIC A. si tliat of my hoftefs. I cannot help remark- ing, that nothing can be more ufeful than fuch an officer, as well for the fervice of the ftate, as for that of any traveller of diftindlon. I have already fpoken of the fundlions of th^; Qiiarter-Mafter-General, but I did not mention that he names a Deputy Quartcr-Mailer-General in each ftate, and that the latter, in his turn, names an affiftant in each diftrid: to a<5l in his room. My horfes and baggage were fcarceiy under cover,- when a dreadful ftorm came on, which however xvas in my favour, as it brought home Mr. Philips : every thing now affumed a new face in the houfe, the pantry flew open, the negroes redoubled their aOiivity, and we foon faw a fupper preparing with the moft favourable au- fpices. Mr. Philips is an Irifhman, tranf- lated to America, w^here he has already made a fortune ; he appears to be cunning and adroit ; and is cautious in talking to ftrangers : in other refpeds, He is more gay than the AmericanSj and even given to irony ; a tutn of mind but little known in America, and for which they have no E A' fpecific 52 TRAVELSIH fpecific name, any more than for the dif-' ferent fpecies of trees and birds. Mrs, Philips, now feconded by her hnfband, and more miflirefs of her work, foon re- fumed her natural ferenity. She is of Ame- rican birth, and a true Yankee^ as her hufband told us ; her face is gentle and agreeable, and her manners correfpond en-' tirely with her features. The * This is a name given by way of clerifion, -^vA even fimple pleafantry, to the inhabitants of the four ealtern ftates. It is thought to come from a favage people v/ho formerly occupied this country, and dwelt between' the Connefticut river, and the ftate «if Maflachuflets. The name of Biick~Jk:n is given in the fame manner to the inhabitants of Virginia, becaufe their anccftors were hunters,, and fold buck, or rather deer fkins, for we fliall fee in the fecond volume that there are no roebucks in- Virginia.- ^ The Engliih army ferving in America,- and' England herfelf, will long have reafon to remember the con- temptuous' ufe they made cf this term in the late unhappy war, and the fevere retort fhey met with on the occafton. — The Englijh army, at Bunker's-HiH, inarched to the infulting tune of " Yankee doodle," but from that period it became the air of triumph, the lo Poean of America, It .was cuckoa to the BritiJlx ear. Tkanslator. — ~ ■ NORTH-AxMERIC A. 53 The 19th I left LitchHeld between nine and ten in the morning, and purfued my journey through the mountains, partly on foot and partly on horfeback ; for having got into the habit of travelling from morn- ing till night v^rithout Hopping, I from time, to time took pity on my horfes, and fpared them in thofe deferts which feemed formed for the roebuck rather than for carriages and laden horfes. The name of the firll town I came to, proclaims it to be of recent origin ; it is called IFaJJnngton. A new county being formed in the woods of Conne<0:icut, the ftate has beftowed on it this refped;able name, the memory of which will indifputably exift much longer than the town intended to perpetuate it. There is another county of Wafhington in Virginia, belonging to the Proted:or of America ; but its great diftance from this new city prevents all poffible incon- venience arifmg from the identity of name.* This capital of a rifing county has a Meeting- E 3 houfe, * Other ftates have like wife .commemorated the yif t.ues of this great man in the fame manner. • Translator. 54 T R A V E L S I N hotifc, and feven or eight houfes colleded; it is in a beautiful fituation, and the cultivation appears riclj and well managed ; a rivulet, which runs at the bottom of the valley, renders the meadows morj^ fruitful than they generally are in mountainous coun- .tries.* From hence to Litchfield, they reckon, * Two years after, the Author returned by this place, where he had only feen a few houfes, and a fingle inn. The number v/as almoft doubled, and therq were three very good and well accommodated inns. He has remarked the fame progrefs through ■I almoft all the interior parts of the country, from the bay of Chefapeak to Pifcataqua^ that is, through a fpace of fix hundred miles. This progrefs is owing, in great meafure, even to the misfortunes of the war. The Englifh being mafters of the fea, made, or had it in their power to make, what they called depre- datory expeditions. Marks of thefe horrid expeditions were every where to be met v/ith in travelling within fifty miles of the coafts or rivers. In one of them it was agitated by the Generals Garth, Tyron^ and their officers, to burn the beautiful and popular town of Newha'uen in Conne£l:icut, vrith its handfome college, &c. The latter General was for it^ but hap- pily, more humane and wifer .fpirits prevailed in the council. But this term, too fhameful to be adopted, into the vocabulary of war, denoted only a fmaU part of the ravages they a£l:ually committed j mur- der and conSagrations v/ere perpetually ths incident? NORTH-AMERICA. 55 reckon, leventeen miles : I had ten miles to go to reach Moorhoufe' s tavern, where I intended fleeping, but not taking the fliorteft road, I travelled at leaft twelve, and always among the mountains. That E 4 which which occurred. Hence it happened that the citizens who were the moft eafy in their circumftances, that is to fay, thofe who, uniting commerce with agri- culture, had their plantations near the coafts, or the mouths of rivers, abandoned them for more tran- quil habitations In the interior part of the country. The little capital they tranfported with them was employed in clearing our new fettlements, which foon became profperous. On the other hand, com- munications by fea becoming imprailicable, it was rjecelTary to make ufe of conveyances through the country: the roads in confequence v/ere made bet- ter, and were more frequented; inns multiplied, as well as the eftablifhment of all workmen ufeful for travellers, fuch as wheelwrights, blackfmiths, &c. So that, befides liberty and independence, the United States will derive this advantage from the war, that commerce and population will be greatly increafed, and that lands, which l]ad long remained barren, have been fo fuccefsfully cultivated, as to prevent them from being again abandoned — , — -rThe Tranjlator had the opportunity of making the fa?ne remarks^ not only in a journey from Virginia to New Hampjhire'^ ^ut in many of the ifit^rior parts of the continent. Transxator* 56 TRAVELSIN v/hich I took brought me to a pretty con- fiderable hamlet, called New Milford-Bor-^ dering-Skirt^ or the confines of Milford county, and from thence into fo deep and wild a valley, that I thought myfelf comr pletely loft, until an opening in the wood made m^^e perceive, firft a meadow furround- ed by fences, then a houfe, and foon after another, and at length a charming valley, with feveral confiderable farms, covered with cattle. I foon crofTed this fpot, which belone;s to the countv of Kent, as well as the rivulet which flows through th£ middle of it, and after travelling three miles far- ther in the mountains, I reached the banks of the Houfatonick^ or the river of Strat- ford. It is unneceffiiry to remark that the firft is the genuine name, that is, the name given it by the favages, the ancient inhabi- tants of the country. This river is not navigable, and is eafily forded near Bull's iron works. We then turn to the left and pafs along its banks ; but if one, is fenfible to the beauties of Nature, if on feeing the paintings of Fernet and Robert^ one has 'learnt to admire its models, it is impofli- ble N D R T II - A M E R I C A. 57 lile not to be loft m admiration at the view of the charming landfcape, formed by the combination of the forges, of the fall of water which feems to work them, and of the variegated profpedt of trees and rocks, with which this picturefque icene is embel-^ Hfhed. At the cUftance of a mile we again pals the fame river on a wooden bridge ; we foon meet v/ith another called 'Ten-mile river ^ w^hich falls into this, and which we follow for two or three miles, and then come in light of fcveral handfome houfes, forming a part of the diftrid: called The Oblong. It is a long narrow flip of land, ceded by Connedicut to the ftate of New-- York, in exchange for fome other territory. The inn I was going to is in the Oblong, hut two miles farther on. It is kept by Colonel Moorhoufe ; far nothinp- is more common in America than to fee an inn- keeper a Colonel : they arc in general militia Colonels, chofen by the militia themfelves, who feldom fail to entruft the command to the moft efteemed, and molt creditable citizens*. I preffed * At Leefburgh in Virginia, in my way to vifit General Gates, I Ilaid three days at the houfe of 58 TRAVELS IN- I preffed forward my horfes, and hurried . on to get the flart of a traveller on horfe^ })ack, who had joined me on the road, and who would have had the fame right with myfelf to the lodgings, had we arrived to- gether. I had the fatisfa£tion, however, to fee him purfue his journey ; but foon learnt, with concern, that the little inn where I propofed to pafs that night, was occupied by thirteen farmers, and two hundred and fifty oxen coming from New Hampfhire. The oxen were the leaft inconvenient part of the company, as they were left to graze in a cieadow hard by, without even a dog to guard them ; but the farmers, their horfes, and dogs, w^re in poffeffion of the inn. They were conveying to the army a part of the contingent pf provifions furniihed by New Hampfhire. This contingent is a fort of tax divided amongft all the inhabitants^ on fome of whom, the impofition amounts to. m Englifhman, a native of Briftol, a man of five foot high, who united, in his ovm perfon, the office of Caknd, Jiijike of the Peace^ P ar'iJh-Clcrk^ and .keeper > nor was he deficient in any of thefe funclicis. Translator. J- NORTH-AMERICA. to one hundred and fifty, on others to one hundred, or eighty pounds of meat, accord- ing to their abilities ; fo that they agree amongft themfelves to furnifli a larger, or fmaller fized ox, no matter which, as each animal is weighed. Their conveyance to. the army is then entrufted to fome farmers, and drovers. The farmers are allowed about a dollar a day, and their expences, as well as thofe of the cattle, are paid them on their return, according to the receipts they are obliged to produce from tke, inn~keeper& where they haye halted. The ufual price, is from three-pence to five-pence Englifh per night for each ox, an.d, in proportion at noon. I informed myfelf of thefe particulars "vvhilft my people were endeavouring to, find me lodgings ; but all the rooms, and all the beds wer^ occupied by thefe farmers, and I was in the greateft diftrefs, when a tall, fat man, the principal perfon amongft them, being informed who I was, came to, me, and affured me, that neither he, nor liis companions would ever fuffer a French General Officer to want a bed, ^nd that they would '6o TRAVELS IN would rather fleep on the floor ; adding, that they were accuftomed to it, and that it would be attended with no inconvenience. In reply I told them, I was a military man, and as much accuftomed as themfelves to make the earth my bed. We had long de- bates on this point of foUteJfe-y theirs was ruftic, but more cordial and afFed:ing than the beft turned compliments. The refult was, that I had a two-bedded room for my- felf and my Aides de Camp. But our ac- quaintance did not terminate there : after parting from each other, I to take fome re- pofe, they to continue drinking their grog and cyder, they came into my room. 1 was then employed in tracing my route by ths map of the country ; this map excited their curiofity. They faw there with furprifc and fatisfadlion the places they had paffed through. They afK:ed me if they were known in Europe, and if it was there I had bought my maps. On my afTuring them that we knew America as well as the countries adjoining to us, they feemed much pleafed ; but their joy was without |)0unds, wheu they faw New Haiiipfhir^ their NORTH-AMERICA. 6i their country, on the map. They called their companions, who were in the next room ; and mine was foon filled with the ftrongeft and moft robuft men I had hi- therto feen in America. On my appearing ftruck with their fize and ftature, they told me that the inhabitants of New Hampfhire were ftrong and vigorous, for which there w^ere many reafons 5 that the air was excel- lent, their fole occupation was agriculture, and above all that their blood was unmixed : this country being inhabited by ancient families who had emigrated from Eng- land. We parted good friends, touching, or rather lhaking hands in the Englifh fafhion, and they affared me that they were very happy to have art opportunity, to JJjake hands with a French General The * The Tranflator, who as a dirintereftecl, and de- termined friend to the rights of niankind, and to the principles of the Englifh Conftitution, could not but wiih fuccefs to America in her glorious ftruggle j as a native of England had many fimilar occafions for interefting refiedions on the viciflitude of hu- man affairs, and of the wickednefs of thofe who too frequently diredt them. But in no inftance was this more ftriking than in Virginia, where he faw the 62 TRAVELS IN The horfe which carried my portmaii-*^ teaUj not travelling fo faft as rriej did not come French' army encamped on. the very fpot, from whence Braddock fet out on his Unfortunate expedi- tion againft the French^ five and twenty years before. The traces of his encampment were ftiil evident. In this expedition he was noi only well feconded by the Provincials, but had their advice been followed, his Tuccefs would have been very different. It is worth obferving too^ that no lefs than four of the moft dif- tinguiftied of the American Generals were with him on the expedition'. General Wajh'ington was his Aide de Camp, and after difluading him as much as poflible from forming his army iii the European manner^ (the miilake which proved fata; to him) received him when mortally wounded in his arms j General Lee was in a detached party from the main body of the army j General Gates ferved in the army, and General Stephens was fhot through the body in the engagement : Lee artd Gates were Englifhmen, and Stephens a Scotchman ; all the four were now be- come inhabitants of Virginia. On the annivcrfary Of that unfortunate day, the Tranflator dined in the back part of the country at General Gates's, ■with General Stephens, from whom he had many curious particulars ; nor was the wonderful revolution in the affairs and minds of men, the fubjedl of lefs anxious difcuffion with them, than with the Tranf- lator, At the time he is fpeaking of ; indeed, during their whole ftay, nothing could be more cordial and fmcere than the kind reception given to the French by the Virginians. Translator. * NORTH-^AMERIC A. i>i tome up till the next mornirig, fo that it was ten o'clock on the 2cth of December,- before I conid iet out. Three miles from Moorhoufe's is a very high hiW 5 we then ' defcend, but not quite fo much as we af- cended ; the road here Is over elevated ground, leaving large mountains on the left: the country is v/eli cultivated, affording the profped: of feveral pretty farm^s, with fome mills ; and notwithftanding the war, Flopel townfhip is buildings inhabited chiefly by Dutch people, as v/ell as the greatelt part of the ftate of New York^ which formerly be- longed to the republic of Holland, who exchanged it for Surinam, My int'ention was to lleep five miles on this fide of Fifh- kill, at Colonel: Griffin's tavefn. I found him cutting and |)reparing wood for fences : he afiured me his houfe was full, which was eafy to be believed, for it was very fmalL I continued my journey therefore, and reached Fifh-kill about four o'clock. This town, in which there are not more than fifty houfes in the fpace of two miles, has beeii long the principal depot of the Americaa army. It is there they have placed their ma- gazines,, their hofpitals, their warkihops, &c. bus ^4 TRAVELSIN but all thefe form a town of themfelves^ compofed of handfome large barracks, built in the wood at the foot of the mountains ; for the Americans, like the Romans in many refpefts, have hardly any other winter quarters, than wooden towns, or barricaded camps, which may be com.pared to the hiemalia of the Romans^ As for the pofition of Filh-kill^ that It was a poft of great importance is evident from the campaign of 1777. It is clear that the plan of the linglilh was to render themfelves mafters of the whole eourfe of the North River^ and thus to feparate the Eaftern and Weftern States. It was ne- celTary therefore to fecure a poft on that river ; Weji Point w^as made choice of as the moft important to fortify, and Fifh- kill as the place the beft adapted to the eftab- liihment of the principal depot of provifions, ammunition, &c. thefe two pofitions are conneded together. I ihall foon fpeak of Weft Point, but I ftiall remark here, that Fifn-kill has all the qualities neceflary for a place of depot, for it is fituated on the high road from Connedicut, and near the North River, and is proteded at the fame time by a chain NORTH-AMERICA; 65 a chain of inacceffible mountains, which occupy a fpace of more than twenty miles between the Croten river and that of Fifh- kill. The approach of winter quarters, and the movement of the troops occafioned by this circumftance, made lodgings very fcarce : it was with difficulty I found any, but I got at laft into a middling inn, kept by an old Mrs. Egremont. The houfe was not fo clean as they ufually are in Ame- rica; but the moft difigreeabie circumftance was the want of feveral panes of glafs* In fa£t, of ail repairs, that of windows is the moft difficult, in a country where, from the fcattered fituation and diftance of the houfes from each other, it is fometimes neceflary to fend twenty miles for a glazier. We made ufe of every thing that came to hand to patch up the windows in the beft way we could, and we made an excellent fire. Soon after, the Dodor of the hofpital, who had feen me pafs, and knew me to be a French General-Officer, came with great politenefs to fee if I wanted any thing, and to offer me every fervice in his power. I Vol. I. F make 66 TRAVELS IN make ufe of the Englifh word DoSlor, be- caufe the diftindion of Surgeon and Phyii- cian is as little known in the army of Wafh- ington, as in that of Agamemnon. We read in Homer, that the Phyfician Macaon himfelf dreffed the wounds ; but our Phy- licians, who are no Greeks, will not follow that example. The Americans conform to the ancient cuftom, and it anfwers very well ; they are well pleafed with their Doc- tors, whom they hold in the higheft confi- deration. Dod:or Craig, whom I knew at Newpoh, is the intimate friend of General Walhington ; and the Marquis de la Fayette had very lately an Aide de Camp, Colo- nel Mac-Henry, who the year before per- formed the fundions of Dodor in the fame army.* The * My old friend Rumney^ whom I had the hap- plnefs to meet with after an abfence of twenty yearSy during v/hich time he has been fettled at Alexandria in Virginia, (whofe refpetStable father has been forty years mafter of ^he Latin fchool at Alnwick in Northumberland, and his uncle Clergyman of Ber- wick) had ferved more than one campaign as Colonel, Do6lor, and Surgeon in the army i he is held in the higheft efteem, and is on terms of the NORTH-AMERICA. 67 The 2 1 ft, at nine in the morning, the Quarter-Mafter of Fifh-kill, who had come the night before with the iitmoft poUtenefs to offer me his fervices, and to place two centinels at the door, an honour I refufed in fpight of every thing he could fay^ cal- led upon me ; and after drinking tea ac- cording to cuftom, he conduded me to fee the barracks, the magazines, and work- houfes of the different workmen employed in the fervice of the army. Thefe barracks are wooden houfes, well built, and well covered, having garrets, and even cellars, F 2 fo greateft friendfhip with General Wafliington, at whofe houfe I fpent fome daj^s with him. But it is impoilible to conceive the eftlmation in v/hich all the medical men, attached to the army, were held during the war, by the people in general, as well as the military. I travelled from Philadelphia to the American carhp on the North river, with Mr. Craigie of that department, a moft refpesSbable young man, and was witnefs to the grateful acknowledg- ments his countrymen feemed every v/here to be- ftow on him, for the fervice he was rendering their fuffering fellow citizens, nor indeed could any thing exceed the zeal, perfeverance, and attention of this department under the moil difcouraging circumftances. Translator. 68 TRAVELSIN fo that we fliould form a falfe idea, were we to judge of them by what we fee in our armies, when our troops are barraques. The Americans fometimes make them Uke ours, but this is merely to cover the foldiers when they are more within reach of the enemy. They call thefe huts^ and they are very expert in conftrud:ing one and the other. They require only three days to build the former, reckoning from the mo- ment they begin to cut down the trees ; the others are finifhed in four and twenty hours. They confift of little walls made of ftones heaped up, the intervals of which are filled with earth kneaded with water, or fimply with mud ; a few planks form the roof ; but what renders them very warm is, that the chimney occupies the outer fide, and that you can only enter by a fmall door, at the fide of the chimney. The army has pafTed whole winters under fuch huts, without fufFering, and without fick- nefs. As for the barracks, or rather the little military town of Fiili-kill, fuch am- ple provifion is made for every thing which the fervice and difcipline of the army may require, 1 NORTH-AMERICA. 69 require, that a prevote and a prifon are built there, furrounded by pallifades. One gate only affords accefs to the inclofure of the prevote ; and before it is placed a guard- houfe. Through the window-bars of the prifon, I diftinguifhed fome prifoners, with the Englifh uniform ; they were about thirty foldiers, or regimented Ivories. Thefe wretches had accompanied the favages in the excurfion they had made by Lake Ontario and the Mohawk river. They had burnt upwards of two hundred houfes, killed the horfes and cows, and deftroyed above one hundred thoufand bufhels of corn. The gallows fliould have been the reward of thefe exploits, but the enemy having alfo made fome prifoners, reprifals were dreaded, and thefe robbers were only confined in rigorous and clofe imprifonment. After paffing fome time in vifiting thefe different fettlements, I got on horfeback, and under the condud: of a guard which- the Quarter-M after gave me, I entered the wood and followed the road to Weft Point, where I wifhed to arrive for dinner. Four or five miles from Fifh-kill, I faw fome F 3 felled 7® TRAVELSIN felled trees, and an opening in the wood, which on coming nearer I difcovered to be a camp, or rather huts inhabited by fome hundred invalid foldiers. Thefe invalids were all in very good health ; but it is necelTary to obferve, that in the American armies, every foldier is called an invalid, who is unfit for fervice : now thefe had been fent here becaufe their clothes were truly invalids. Thefe honefl fellows, for I will not fay creatures, (they know too well how to fuffer, and are fulfering in too no- ble a caufe) were not covered, even with rags ; but their fteady countenances, and their arms in good order, feemed to fup- ply the defed of clothes, and to difplay nothing but their courage and their pa- tience. Nfear this camp I met with Major Limati^ Aid de camp to General Heath, with whom I was particularly intimate at New- port, and Mr. de Ville Tranche, a French ofEcer, ferving as an Engineer at Weft- Point. General Heath had been informed of my arrival by an exprefs, fent without my knowledge, by the Quarter-Mafter of fifti-kill, and he had difpatched thefe two A officers 4 N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 71 oiEcers to meet me. I continued my jour- ney in the woods, in a road hemmed in on both fides by very fteep hills, which fcemed admirably adapted for the dwelling of bears, and where in fad: they often make their appearance in winter We availed ourfelves at length of a lefs difficult part of thefe mountains to turn to the Weftward and approach the river, but which is ftill invifible. Defcending them fiowly, at the turning of the road, my eyes were ftruck with the moft magnificent pidure I had ever beheld. It was a view of the North- river, running in a deep channel formed by the mountains, through which in former ages it had forced its paffage. The fort of Weft-Point, and the formidable batteries which defend it, fix the attention on the Weftern bank, but on lifting your eyes you behold on every fide lofty fammits, thick fet with redoubts and batteries. I leaped off my horfe and viewed them a long time with my fpying glafs, the only method of acquiring a knowledge of the whole of the fortifications with which this important poft is furrounded. Two lofty F 4 heights, 7^ TRAVELSIN heights, on each of which a large redoubt is conftruded, proted: the Eaftern bank. Thefe two works have no other name than the Northern, and the Southern Redoubts ; but from the fort of Weft-Point properly fo called, which is on the edge of the river, to the very top of the mountain at the foot of which it ftands, are fix different forts, all in the form of an amphitheatre, and protecting each other. They com- pelled me to leave this place, where I fhould willingly have fpent the whole day, but I had not travelled a mile before I faw the reafon of their hurrying me. I perceived a corps of infantry of about two thoufand five hundred men, ranged in a line of batf. tie on the bank of the river. They had juft palled it to proceed by Kingsbridge, and cover a grand foraging party which it was propofed to fend towards the White-Plains, and to the gates of New York. General Stark^ who beat the Englilh at Bennington^ had the command of thefe troops, and General Heath was at their head ; he was * 4efirous of letting me fee them before they inarched. I palTed before the ranks, being faluted NORTH-AMERICA. 73 faluted with the efpontoon by all the ■officers, and the drums beating a march, an honour paid in America to Major-Gene- rals, who are the firft in rank, though it only correfponds with our Marechal de Camp, The troops were ill clothed, but made a good appearance ; as for the officers they were every thing that could be wifhed, as well for their countenances, as for their manner of marching, and giving the com- mand. After paffing the front of the line, they broke it, filed off before me, and con- tinued their route. General Heath con- dud:ed me to the river, where his barge was waiting to carry me to the other fide. A new fcene now opened to my view, not lefs fublime than the former. We de- fcended with our faces towards the north : on that fide is an ifland covered with rocks, which feem to clofe the channel of the river, but you foon perceive, through a fort of embrafure formed by its bed in feparat- ing immenfe mountains, that it comes ob- liquely from the weftward, and that it has made a fudden turn round Weft-point tg open itfelf a paffage, and to endeavour to gain 74" TRAVELSIN gain the fea, without making hereafter the fmalleft bend. The eye carrying itfelf to- wards the North-Bay and Conjiitution IJland^ (the ifle I have been fpeaking of) again per- ceives the river, diftinguiflies ISlew W'tndfor on its left bank, and is then attrad:ed by different amphitheatres formed by the Apa- lachian Mountains, the neareft fummits of which, that terminate the fcene, are diftant upwards of thirty miles. We embarked in the barge, and palTed the river, which is about a mile wide. As we approached the ©ppofite fhore, the fort of Wefl-Point, which, feen from the eaftern bank, feemed humbly fituated at the foot of the moun- tains, elevated itfelf to our view, and ap- peared like the fummit of a fteep rock ; this rock however was only the bank of the river. Had I not remarked that the chinks on it, in feveral places, were embra- fures for cannon, and formidable batteries, I fhould foon have been apprifed of it by thirteen 24-pounders, which were fired fuccefiively. This was a military falute, with which General Heath was pleafed to honour me in the name of the Thirteen States* N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 75 States. Never was honour more command- ing, nor more majeftic ; every gun was, after a long interval, echoed back from the oppofite bank, with a noife nearly equal to that of the difcharge itfelf. When we recolledt that two years ago Weft-Point was a defert, almoft inacceffible, that this defert has been covered with fortreffes and artillery, by a people, who fix years before had fcarcely ever feen cannon ; when we < reflet: that the fate of the United States de- pended in great meafure on this important poft ; and that a horfe dealer *, transformed into a General, or rather become a hero, always intrepid, always victorious, but al- ways purchafnig vitStory at the price of his blood J that this extraordinary man, at once the honour, and the opprobrium of his country, aCtually fold, and expeded to deliver this Palladium of American liberty to the Englifh ; when fo many extraordi- nary circumftances are brought together in the phyfical and moral order of things, it may eafily be imagined that I had fufficient exercife for refledion, and^ that I did not tire on the road. On * Benedict Arnold, Translator. 76 T R A V E L S 1 N On landing, or rather on climbing the rocks on the banks of the river, we were received by Colonel Lamb, and Major Bowman, both officers of artillery ; by Major Fiih, a handfome young man, witty and well formed ; and Major Franks, for- merly Aid de Camp to Arnold. The latter had been tried and honourably acquitted by a council of war, demanded by himfelf after the efcape and treafon of his General. He fpeaks good French, as well as Colonel Lamb, which they both learnt in Canada, where they were fettled.* The latter re^ ceived a mufquet fhot in his jaw at the attack of Quebec, fighting by the fide of Arnold, and having nearly penetrated into . the upper town. PrefTed by dinner time, we went immediately to General Heath's barrack. The fort, which was begun on much too extenfive a plan, has been fmce curtailed by Mr. du Portail, fo that this barrack is no longer within its precincts. Around it are fome magazines, and farther to the north-weft, barracks for three or four * Mr. Franks is the fon of a Canadian Jew. Translator, N O R T H ^ A M E R I C A. 77 four battalions ; they are built of wood, and fimilar to thofe of Fifb-kill. Whilft dinner was preparing, General Heath took me into a little clofet, which ferved him as a bedchamber, and lliewed me the in- ftrud:ions he had given General Stark for the grand foraging party he commanded. This expedition required a movement of troops in a fpace of more than fifty miles ; and I can affirm, that they were as well conceived as any inflrudions of that kind I have ever feen, either in print, or manu- fcript. He fhev\red me alfo a letter in which General Wafhington only ordered him to fend this detachment, and pointed out its objed:, without communicating to him, however, another operation connected with it, which was to take place on the right bank of the North-River. From various intelligence, by indirect ways. General Heath was perfuaded, that in cafe the enemy colleded his force to interrupt the forage, Mr. de la Fayette v/ould attack Staten Ifland^ and he was not deceived ; but Mr. Wafhington contented himfelf with announcing generally fome m^ovements on his ;8 TRAVELSIN his fide, adding, that he waited for a mor^ fafe method of communicating the nature of them to General Heath. Secrecy is ftridly obferved in the American army; very few perfons are in the confidence of the Commander, and in general there is iefs faid of the operations of war, of what we call news, than in the French army. General Heath is fo well known in our little army, that I fhould difpenfe with entering into particulars refped:ing him, if this Journal, in which I endeavour to recoiled: what little I have feen in this country, were not deftined at the fame time to fatisfy the curiofity of others who have not croiTed the fea, and to whofe amufement I am defirous of contributing. This General was one of the firft who took up arms, at the blockade of Bofton, and having at iirft joined the army in the quali- ty of Colonel, he was immediately raifed to the rank of Major-General. He was at that time a fubftantial farmer or rich gen- tleman ; for we muft not lofe fight of the diftindion, that in America, farmer means ciiltivator, in oppofition to merchant^ which eva'y N OR TH-AMERICA. 7^ every man is called who is employed in commerce. Here, as in England, by gentle- many is underftood a perfon poffeffing a con- fiderable freehold^ or land of his own. Gene- ral Heath, then, was a farmer or gentleman, and reared, on his eftate, a great num- ber of cattle, which he fold for fhips pro- vifions. But his natural tafte led him to the ftudy of war ; to which he has princi- pally applied himfelf fmce the period in which his duty has concurred with his in- clination ; he has read our beft authors on tadics, and efpecially the Tadics of Mr. Guibert, which he holds in particular efti- mation. His fortune enabling him to con- tinue in the fervice, notwithftanding the want of pay, which has compelled the lefs rich to quit it, he has ferved the whole war ; but accident has prevented him from being prefent on the moft important oc- cafions. His countenance is noble and open ; and his bald head, as well as his corpulence, give him a ftriking refem- blance to the late Lord Granby. He writes well and with eafe ; has great fenfibiiity of mind, and a frank and amiable cliarader ; in So TRAVELS IN in £hort, if he has not been in the way of difplaying his talents in adion, it may be at leaft aflerted, that he is well adapted to the bufmefs of the cabinet. His eftate is near Bollon, and he commanded there when Burgoyne's army v/ere brought pri- foners thither. It was he who put the Englifli General Philips in arreft, * for want of * It may now be mentioned, without any in- vidious imputation, that the condu6l of too many of the Britifli officers, when prifoners in America, was as injurious to the honour and intereft of their country, as deftitute of good fenfe and common policy; of this the Tranflator faw many examples which made him blufh for England. At Lancafter in Pennfylvania, in particular, he was prefent at a court of inquiry, inftituted into the conduct of fome Britifli officers who had broken their parole more than once, and infulted and beat the inhabi- tants of the country ; nothing could be clearer or more decifive than the evidence, nor more polite and indulgent than the behaviour of the American officer* who conftituted the court, yet were they openly infulted and contemptuoufly treated by thefe magnanimous gentlemen cfficers. Their names are withheld by the Tranflator, on account of their families ; they were a part of the army taken at York-Town, with Cornwallis. Captain Grenviile of the Guards, and others who condudled themfelves really like gentlemen, can fay how well they were treated. Translator. NORTH-AMERICA. 8i of refped to the Congrefs ; his conduct on this occafion was firm and noble. On our arrival at Rhode Illand, he was fent there ; and foon after, when Clinton was preparing to attack us, he alTembied and ebmmanded the militia, who came to our affiftance. During his ftay at Newport, he lived honourably, and in great friendfhip with all the French officers. In the month of September, General Wafhington, on dif- covering the treafon of Arnold, fent for him, and gave him the command of Weft-Point ; a mark of confidence the more honourable, as none but the honefteft of men was proper to fucceed, in this command, the bafeft of ail traitors. After giving this advantageous but juft idea of General Heath, I cannot but con- gratulate myfelf on the friendfhip, and thorough good underftanding which fub- fifted between us during his ftay at New- port, where my knowledge of the Englifti language rendered me the medium in all affairs we had to tranfad: with him. It was with real fatisfa now ferve to defend America, and do ho- mage to her allies, until it was to be em- ployed in the fiege of New York, General Heath, who was detained by bufinefs at Weft-Point, fent Major Limaii to accompany me to Verplank^ s-Po'mt^ where we did not arrive till between twelve and one, after a continued journey amidft the immenfe hills which cover this country, and leave no other interval than the bed of the river. The highePc of them is called Anthony s Nofe ; it projeds into the river, and compels it to make a little change in its courfe. Before we arrive at this point, we fee the ruins of fort Clinton : this fort, which was named after the Governor of the ftates of New York, was attacked and cn in 1777 by the Englifh General Cii-.;..v>n, as he was remounting the river to Ali.v j.y to give his hand to Burgoyne. * It was then tiie * A poor fellow v/ho was fent with a letter from Burgoyne to Clinton, inclofed in a filver bullet, mifcarried in his mcffagc, and loll his life by ti;e. 90 TRAVELSIN the principal fort on the river, and biillt on a rock, at the foot of a mountain, thought to be inacceffible, and was farther defended by a Httle creek which falls into the main river. Sir Henry Clinton fcaled the top of the mountain, himfelf carrying the Britifh colours, which he always held aloft, until his troops defcended the fteep rock, paffed the creek, and carried the pod. The garrifon, conlifting of 700 men, were ahnoft all taken. Since the defeat of Burgoyne, and the alliance with France has changed the face of affairs in America, General Wafhington has not thought pro- per to repair fort Clinton ; he preferred placing his communication and concentring his forces at A¥eft-Point, becaufe the Hud- Jon famcnefs of names of the Arnerican and Britifh commanders. Falling in, in the woods, with a party of Americans clothed in Britifli uniform, which they had taken, he inquired eagerly for General Clinton^ to whom he was inftantly condu(Sled> but on difcovering that it was not the Clinton he was in fearch of, in the face of a number of fpedtators, he fwallov/ed the bullet. Em.etics and purgatives were inftantly adminiftered, which made him dif- gorge, and the unfortunate fellow was hanged o\\ the next tree. Translator, N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 9< fon there makes a circuit which prevents vefTels from remounting with the wind abaft, or with the tide ; and Conftitution Ifle, which is precifeiy at the turn of the river, in a dired:ion north and fouth, is perfe<3:ly well fituated to proted; the chain which clofes the paflage for fliips of war. The Englilh, however, had preferved a very important poft at King's Ferry, where they were fufficiently well fortified j fo that by the aid of their fhips, they Vv^ere maftera of the courfe of the river for the fpace of more than fifty miles, and Vv'ere thus able to repel to the northward the very impor- tant communication betw^een the Jerfeys and Conne<5ticut. Such was the ftate of things, when, in the month of June, 1779, General JVayne^ who commanded in the Clove a corps of 1500 men, formed the project of furprifmg Sto?iey Point, This fort w^as in an entrenchment, furrounded with an abattis, which crowned a fleep rock, and formed a well-picketed redoubt. Ge- neral Wayne marched, in the night, in three columns, the principal of which was |ed on by Monfieur de Fleury, who, v/ith- out $2 T R A V E L S I N out firing a miifquet, forced the abattis, and entrenchments, and entered the re- doubt with the fugitives.'^^" The attack was fo brifk on the part of the Americans, and fuch the terror of the Englifh, that Mr. de Fleury, who was the firll that entered, found himfelf in an inftant loaded with eleven fwords which were delivered to him. by thofe who aflvcd for quarter. It mnft be added to the honour of our allies, that from that moment not a drop of blood was fpiit. f The Americans, once mailers of one * This ofEcer had already diftinguifhed himfelf on many occafions, particularly at the retreat ot General Sullivan from Rhode Ifland, and at the defence of Mud Ifland. He went to America in 1777. ^^^5 fince been Major of the regiment of Saint Onge, and ferved as Major of brigade in the army of the Count de Rochambeau. On his return to ranee, he was made Colonel of the regiment oF Pondicherry, and is now in India. t I cannot here refift a pang of forrow for the dreadful confequencies of the late defperate and fatal war. Captain yew of the 17th regiment, as brave an officer, and as amiable a man as ever lived, whom I had long known and efteemed, when ferving with, our common friend Montgomery in that regimental liere lofl his life, refufmg to take quarter. This gallani; I N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 93 one of the banks of the river, loft no tune in getting poffeffion of the other. Mr. de Gouvion conftruded a redoubt at Verplanlzs Point (nearly oppofite), where we landed^ and where, by a lucky accident, we found our horfes, arrived as foon as us. This redoubt is of a peculiar form, hardly ever ufed but in America: the ditch is within the gallant man was already perforated with wounds received in Canada and the Weft Indies, fighting under his Colonel, Gerteral Monckton, in the preced- ing war, and was fuch a fpe£lacle of a wounded body ftill in life, as td be particularly pointed out to the King his niafter's notice at a review of the regiment near London in 1770 or 1771 j the King aiked him many queftlons, feemed much afFedled with his fitua- tion, expreffed his pity, and he was left to pine a fubaltern, and to follow his regiment once m.ore to fcenes of war and a diftant climate. He deeply felt this ever after, and chagrin, no doubt, added to his defpair, had made him wifli for death. The fate of my moft intimate and lam,ented friend, Mont- gomery, who fell, as he thought in a better caufe, and on the very fpot where he had attended Wolfe^ to victory and glory, affords ample food for melan- choly reflection, not eafy to be effaced from fufcep- tible mfnds, and who have felt a double lofs of friends, in the horrors of this deteftable war. Translator. 54 'TRAVELSlT^r the parapet, which is made fteep on both fides, and picketed at the height of the cordon ; lodgings for the fbldiers are form- ed below. The middle of the work is a fpace conflruded with wood, and in the form of a fquare tower* There are battle- ments every where, and it commands the rampart. An abattis formed of the tops of trees interwoven j furrounds the whole, and is a fubftitute for a covered way. We may eafily perceive that fuch a work cannot be infulted, nor taken without cannon. Now* as this is backed by the mountains, of which the Americans are always mafterSj it is almoft: impoffibic that the Englifh fhould beiiege it. A creek which falls into Hudfon's river, and runs to the fouth- ward of this redoubt, renders its pofition ftill more advantageous. * Colonel Livlngjlon^ who commands at King's Ferry, has efla- blifhed himfelf there in preference to Stoney Point, to be nearer the White Plains, where the Englilh frequently make incurfions. This is a very amiable and well-informed young man. Previous to the war he mar- ried in Canada, where he has acquired the French NORTH-AMERICA. French language: in 1775, he was one of the firft who took arms ; he foUgHt under the orders of Montgomery^ and took fort Chambly, whilft the former was befieging St. John's, He received us in his httle citadel with great politenefs ; but to leave it with the honours of war, the American laws required that we fhould breakfaft : It Was the fecond we had taken that day, and confifted of beef-fteaks, and tea, accom- panied with a few bowls of grog ; for the commander's cellar was no better ftored than the foldiers wardrobe. The latter had been fent into this garrifon as being the worft clothed of the whole American army, fo that one may form fome idea of their drefs. About two o'clock we croiTed the river, and flopped to examine the fortifications of Stoney Point. The Americans finding them too extenfive, had reduced them to a redoubt, nearly fimilar to that of Verplanks, but not quite fo good. There I took leave of Mr. Livingfton, who gave me a guide to condud me to the army, and I fet off, pre- ceded by MefFieurs de Noailles, de Damas, and 96 TRAVELSIN and de Mauduit, who wlfhed to join Mr. de la Fayette that nighty though they had thirty miles to go^ through very bad roads. This impatience was well fuited to their age ; but the intelligence I coliedted proving to me that the army could not move before the next day, I determined to flop on the road, content to profit by the little day- light that remained to travel ten or twelve miles. On leaving the river, I frequently turned round to enjoy the magnificent fped:acle it prefents in this place, where its bed becom.Cs fo large* that in viewing it to the fouthward, it has the appearance of an immenfe lake, whilft the northern afpect is that of a majeftic river. I was defired to obferve a fort of promontory, from whence Colonel Livingfton had formed the project of taking the Vulture floop of war, which brought Andre^ and was waiting for Arnold. This veflel having come too near the fhore^ grounded at low vv^ater ; the Colonel ac^ quainted Arnold with it^ and afked him for two pieces of heavy cannon, aflTuring him that he would place them fo as to fink her. Arnold eluded the propofal on frivolous pretences, NO^TH-AMERIC A. ^7 pretences, fo that the Colonel could dnly bring one four-pounder, which was at Fer^ planHs to bear on hen This piece raked the veflel fore and aft, and did her fo much da- mage, that if fhe had not got oft with the flood, fhe mufl have ftruck* The next day. Colonel Livingflon being on the fhore, faw Arnold pafs in his barge, as he was going down the river to get on board the frigate. ^ He declares that he had fuch a fufpicion of him, that had his guard boats been near, he would have gone after him inftantly, and afked him where he was going. This quef-^ tion probably would have embarrafTed the " traitor, and Colonel Livingfton's fufpicions being thence confirmed, he would have ar- refled him Vol. I. H My * There is every reafon to believe that Arnold's treachery took its date from his connexion with Lieutenant Hele^ killed afterwards on board the For- midable in the Weft Indies, and who was undoubtedly a very aflive and induftrious fpy at Philadelphia in the; winter of 1778, whither he was fent for that purpofe ia a pretended flag of truce, which being wrecked in the Delaware, he was made prifoner by Congrefs, a fubje£l: of much difcuffion between them, and the commander at New York. That the intended plot 98 TRAVELSIN My thoughts were occupied with Arnold and his treafon^ when my road brought me to Smii/j's famous houfe where he had his in- terview with Andre, and formed his horrid plot. It was in this houfe they paffed the night together, and where Andre changed liis clothes. It was there that the liberty of America was bargained for and fold ; and it was there that chance, which is al- ways the arbiter of great events, difcon- certed this horrible project, and that fatif- lied with facrificing the imprudent Andre, fhe prevented the crime, only by the efcape of the criminal. Andre was repaffing the river quietly, to gain New York by the White Plains, had not the cannon fired at the was known in England, and great hopes built upon it, long before it was to take place, is certain. General Matthews and other officers who returned in the autumn of 1780, being often heard to declare, "that it was all over with the rebels : that they were about to receive an irreparable blow, the news of which would loon arrive, Sec. &c." Their fdence from the moment in which they received an account of the failure of the plot, and the difcovery of the traitor, evidently pointed out the object of their allufions. Tr AN'SLATORi NORTH-AMERICA. the frigate, made him apprehend the fall- ing in with the American troops; He ima- gined, that favoured by his difguife, he fhould be fafer on the right bank : a few miles from thence he was flopped, and a few miles farther he found the gibbet. Smith, who was more than fufpedtedj but not convi(3:ed of being a party in the plot, is flill in prifon, where the law protects him againft juftice. But his houfe feems td have experienced the only chaftifement of which it was fufceptible ; it is punifhed by folitude ; and is in fadl fo deferted, that therd is not a fingle perfon to take care of it, although it is the manfion of a large farm.* I purfued my route, but .without being able to give fo much attention as to recoiled: it $ I only remember that it w^as as gloomy as my refledtions ; it brought me into a deep vale, covered with cyprefTes ; a torrent rolled over the rocks, which I pafTed, and foon after night came on. I had ftill fomd H 2 miles * Smithes , is a very handfome houfe and beautifully fituated, but was ii^ the fame defolate ftate when the Tranflator was there in 1780. Translator^ 100 T R A V E L S I N miles to an inn, where I got tolerably well accommodated. It is fituated in Haver- Jiraw^ and is kept by another Smithy but who in no way refembles the former ; lie afliired me he was a good whig, and as he gave me a good fupper, I readily be- lieved him. The 23d I fet out at eight o'clqck, with the intention of arriving in good time at the Marquis de la Fayette's camp ; for I had learnt that the army was not to move that day, and I was defirous of being pre- fented by him to General Wajlmgton, The Ihorteft road was by Paramus ; but my guide infilled on my turning to the north- ward, aifuring me that the other road was not fafe, that it was infefted by tories, and that he always avoided it, when he had let- ters to carry. * I took the road to the right there- * The guide gave the Marquis very true informa- tion, for the Tranflator, who took the Paramus road, had feveral wcll-^founded alarms, in pafling through that intricate country. At Hopper'^ Mill^ near Para- mus, where he fiept amongft myriads of rats in a m.ilk- houfe, the family aflured him, that their quarters were conftantly beat up, and hoffes, men, &c» carried off. NORTH-AMERICA. loi therefore, and followed for fome time the rivulet of Romopog ; I then turned to the left, and foon got into the townfhip of Pompton, and into the Ttotohaw road ; but being informed that it led me ftraight to the main body of the army, without pafling by the van commanded by M. de la Fayette, I inquired for fome crofs road to his quarter, and one was pointed out to me, by which, pafling near a fort of lake which forms a very agreeable point of view, and then crof- fing fome very beautiful woods, I arrived at a ftream which falls into Second River^ ex- aOlXj at the fpot where M, de la Fayette was encamped. His pofts lined the rivulet ; they were well difpofed, and in good order. At length I arrived at the camp ; but the Marquis was not there ; apprized of my H 3 coming At this place there was no lock to the liable door, which they faid was here a fuperfluous article, as thefe banditti were guilty of every a£l of violence. He re-J ceived fimilar information from his friend DoSior Brown of Bridport in Dorfetftiire, but who has been long fettled in America, and was attached to the con- tinental army, with whom he breakfaited, at his beauti- ful little refidence, next morning. Translator, 102 • T R A V E L S I N coming by the Vicomte de Noailles, he hkd gone to wait for me at feven miles diftance, at head quarters, where he thought I fhould diredt my courfe. He had fent, however, Major Gimat, and one of his Aides de Camp, to meet me, but they had taken the two roads to Paramus ; fo that by his precau- tions, and thofe of my guide, I was, as they fay in Englifli, completely difappointed, for it was two o'clock, and I had already travelled thirty miles without flopping. I was in the utmoft impatience to embrace M. de la Fayette, and to fee General Wafhing* ton, but I could not make my horfes par- take of it. It was propofed to me to pro- ceed diredly to head quarters, becaufe, faid they, I might perhaps arrive in time for din- ner. But feeing the impoffibility of that, and being in a country where I was known, I defired fome oats for my horfes. Whilft they were making this flight repaft, I went to, fee the camp of the Marquis, * it is thus they * It is impoffibie to paint the efleem and afFe(5tion with which this French nobleman is regarded in Ame- rica, it is to be furpaffed only by the love of their illuftrious chief. He has found the fecret of winning NORTH-AMERICA. 103 they call Mr. de la Fayette ; the Englifh, language being fond of abridgments, and titles uncommon in America. I found this camp placed in an excellent pofition ; it occupied two heights feparated bv a fmall bottom, but with an eafy communication between them. The river Totohaw or Second- River^ protects its right, and it is here that it rnakes a confiderable elbow, and turning towards the fouth, falls at length into the bay of Newark. The principal part of the front, and all the left flank, to a great dif- tance, are covered by the rivulet which comes H 4 from all their hearts ■, nor to thofe who know him is it mat- ter of any wonder. In the gentleft, and moft courte- ous manner, he unites a franknefs, which is fuppofed to be not the general charaileriftic of his countrymen ; his deportment is dignified without pride ; and his zeal, activity, and enthufiafm in the caiife of America, diftinit from all the political views of co-operation with the wifties of his court, added to a fincere and uniform admiration of the greateft and beft charadler of the age, completely endeared this excellent young man to grate- ful America. The Marquis was never fpoken of in the hearing of the Tranfiator, without manifeft tokens of attachment and afFe£lion. Translator, ^04 T R A V E L S I N from Paramus, an.d falls into the fame river, This pofitioii is only twenty pniles from New York ifland ; and was accordingly oc- cupied by the van guard, confifting of light infantry, that is to fay, by the picked corps of the Arnerican army: the regiments, in fad, which compofe it have no grenadiers, but only a company of light infantry, anfwering to our Cha£'eurs^ and of whom battalions are formed at the beginning of the cam- paign. This troop made a good appearance^ were better clothed than the reft of the army j the uniforms both of the officers and foldiers were fmart and military, and (each foldier wore a helmet made of hard leather, with a creft of horfe-hair. The officers are armed with efpontoons, or ra- ther with half pikes, and the fubalterns with fufils : but both were provided with Ihort and light fabres, brought from France, and made a prefent of to them by M. de la Fayette. The tents, agreeably to the Ame- rican cuftom, formed only two ranks ; they were in regular lines, as well as thofe of the officers ; and as the feafon was advanced, they had good chimneys, biit placed differ- I ently NORTH-AMERICA. 105 ently from ours ; for they are all built on the outfide, and conceal the entrance of the tents, which produce the double elFed of keeping off the wind, and of preferving heat night and day. I faw no piles of arms, and was informed that the Americans made no ufe of them. When the weather is good, each company places its fufils on a wooden horfe ; but when it rains, they muft be removed into the tents, which is undoubt- edly a great inconvenience : this will be re- medied when the means of doing it are more abundant, but I fear much, that this will not happen the next year. As I was walking in the front of the camp, I was joined by an officer, who fpoke very good French ; which v/as not aftonilhing, as he turned out to be as much a Frenchman as myfelf; this was Major Galvan, This officer came to America on commercial affairs, on which fubje which feems to fpring from the fole idea> that the fafety of each individual is attached - to his perfon. As for the reft, I muft ob- ferve on this occafion, that the General ■ Officers of the American army have a very military and a very becoming carriage ; that even all the officers, whofe characters w^ere . brought into public view, unite much polite^ Acfs to a great deal of capacity; that the head quarters of this army, in £hort, neither pre- fgs, and along fide of them the 'prentice boy of fixtcen, and the fervant; girl, or perhaps one of tha daugliters of the family, not only kilTing and em- bracing each other, but proceeding to fuch familiari- ties as would fliock modeft)', and draw down the vengeance of the virtuous citizen of London ; and all this, not only v/ithout reprcheiifion, but even with marks of complacency on the part of the good old folks. Even the laj} Jlip^ is no efftintial blemifli in the charader of the frail fair one. Both fexes arrive early at puberty, their conftitutions are warm, there ' are few reftraints, and they lofe no time in compleat- ing the great objecl:, the population, of the country. Translator. f Mrs. Carter is the daughter of General Schuyler^ and is now called Church ; her hulband, Mr. John Barker Churchy having re-affumed his real name or^ his return to England fmce the peace. He is an Eng- lifh gentleman of a very refpeclable family and con- nections J but having been unfortunate in bufinefs i-n London, in the outfet of life, retired to America, where, from his known principles, he was re- ce.ivq*! N O R T H - A M E R I C A, 155 . is concerned in furnifhing our army with provifions. and lives at prefent at Newport, told me, that going down one morning into her hufband's office, not much decked out, but in a rather elegant French undrefs, a farmer of the Maflachuiret's State, who was there on bufmefs, feemed furprifed at fee- ing her, and afeed who that young lady was. On being told, Mrs. Carter — " Aye /" faid he, loud enough for her to hear him, A wife and a mother^ truly ^ has no hujlnefs to be fo well drejj'ed.^'' At three o'clock I got on horfeback, with Colonel Moyland, and Captain Herne, one of the young officers I had dined with. He is in the light cavalry, and confe- quently ceived as a good whig. He took the name of Carter^ that his friends might hear nothing of him, until by his induftry he had retrieved his affairs. His activity in the revolution, brought him acquainted with General Schuyler, whofe daughter he foon after mar- ried ; and on the arrival of the French troops, got a principal fhare of the contract for fupplying them, in conjunftion with Col. Wadfworth. Since the war he has returned to Europe, with a very confider- ablq fortune, fettled all his affairs, and is happily and honourably reftored to his friends and -family. Translator. 156 TRAVELS IN quently in Colonel Moyland's regiment. His fize and figure, which I had already remarked, appeared to ftiil more advantage on horfeback. I obferved that he was feated in a very noble and eafy manner, and in perfect conformity to our principles of horfemanfhip. I afked him where he had ftudied horfemanmip, he told me at his own regiment ; that his defire to teach the foldiers induced him to learn it ; and that he made it his bufmefs to render them as expert in the exercife as himfelf. Though but one and twenty, he had al- ready acquired great experience, and dif- tinguiflied himfelf the preceding year, in an affair, v/here a fmall body of American light horfe beat a much more confiderable one of EngliQi dragoons. I had a long converfation with him, and he always fpoke to me with a modefty, and a grace which would be favourably received by all the military in Europe, and which, to all appearance, would be as fuccefsful at Parish as in camps. We had fcarcely proceeded three miles, before we found ourfelves in the Prince- Town N O R T H - A M E R I C A. fsj Town road, and on the banks of the Rarl- ton, which may be eafily paiTed by ford- ing, or over a wooden bridge. Two miles farther we crofled the Milljlone^ the left bank of which we followed to Somerfet Court-houfe. Of all the parts of America I had hitherto pafled through, this is the moil open ; we meet with handfome little plains here, where from fifteen to twenty thoufand men might be encamped. Gene- ral Howe had not lefs when he pafled the Rariton in 1777. His right was fupported by a wood, beyond which runs the Mill- ftone; His left alfo extended towards other woods. General Wafhington at that time occupied the camp at Middlebrook, and General Sullivan^ at the head of only 1500 men, w^as fix miles from the army, and three miles from the left of the enemy. In this pofition he was near enough to harafs them, without committing himfelf, as he had in his rear the mountains of Saourland, They who, in the laft war, have paflxid through Saourland, will eafily conceive that the country to which the German emigrants have given this name, is 158 TRAVELS IN is not very eafy of accefs. I found my fuite at Somerfet Court-houfe, where they were waiting for me in a pretty good inn, but as there was ftill fome dayhght, and I had calculated my next day's journey, which required that I fhould gain fomething in the prefent, I cletei'mined to proceed fur- ther. The night, which foon came on, prevented me from making any more ob- fervations on the country. After once more paffmg the Millftone, and getting well out of a horrible flough, we halted at Gregg-'T'own^ where we ilept at Skil- man's tavern, an indifferent inn, but kept by very obliging people. Captain Heme continued his route. Our next day's ride prefented us with very interefting objects : we were to fee two places which will be for ever dear to the Americans, fuice it was there the firft rays of hope brightened upon them, or, to exprefs it more properly, that the fafety of the country was effected. Thefe celebrated places are Prlnce-'Town^ and Trenton. I fhall not fay I went to fee them, for they lay precifely in the road. Let the reader judge then how much I was out I N OUT H.AMERICA. 159 mt of humour, on feeing fo thick a fog rifmg, as to prevent me from diftinguifliing objeds at fifty paces from me ; but I was in a country where one muft defpair of nothing. The fortune of the clay was like that of America : the fog fuddenly dif- perfed, and I found myfelf travelling on the right bank of the Millftone, in a nar- row valley. Two miles from Gregg-Towii we quit this valley, and mount the higheft of Rockey-Hiliy where are a few houfes. King's-^ own is a mile farther, but ftill on the Millftone j the Maidenhead road ends here, and its communication is facilitated by a bridge built over the rivulet. It is here that General Wafhington halted after the affair of Prince-Town. After march- ing from midnight until two o^clock in the afternoon, almoft continually fighting : he wifhed to colled the troops, and give them fome reft ; he knew, however, that Lord Cornwallis was following him on the Maidenhead road ; but he contented himfelf with taking -up fome planks of the bridge, and as foon as he faw the vanguard of the Englifh appear, he continued his march quietly towards • Middlebrook, Beyond 3 King's- i6o T R A V E L S I N King's-Town, the country begins to open, and continues fo to Prince-Town. This town is fituated on a fort of platform not much elevated, but which commands on all fides : it hag only one ftreet formed by the high road; there are about fixty or eighty houfes, all tolerably well built, but little attention is paid them, for that is irnmediately attraded by an immenfe build- ino;, which is vifible at a confiderable dif- tance. It is a college built by the ftate of Jerfey fome years before the war ; as this building is only remarkable from its fize, it is unnecefTary to defcribe it ; the reader will only recoiled, when I come to fpeak of the engagement, that it is on the left of the road in going to Philadelphia, that it is fituated towards the middle of the town, on a diftind fpot of ground, and that the entrance to it is by a large fquare court furrounded with lofty palifades. The objed w^hich excited my curiofity, though very foreign from letters at that moment, brought me to the very gate of the college. I difmounted for a moment to vifit this vaft edifice, and was foon joined by Dr. Wither fpootty Prefident of the univerfity. He NORTH^AMERICA. i6r He is a man of at leaft fixty, is a member of Congrefs, and much refpe(3:ed in this country. In accofting me he fpoke French, but I eafily perceived that he had acquired his knowledge of that language, from reading, rather than converfation ; which did not prevent me, however, from anfwer- ing him, and continuing to converfe with him in French, for I faw that he was well pleafed to difplay w^hat he knew of it. This is an attention which cofts little, and is too much neglefted in a foreign country. To reply in Engliih to a perfon who fpeaks French to you, is to tell him you do not know my language fo well as I do yours : in this, too, one is not unfrequently mif- taken. As for me, I always like better to have the advantage on my fide, and to fight on my own ground. I converfed in French, therefore, w'ith the Prefident, and from him I learnt that this college is a complete unlveriity ; that it can contain two hundred ftudents, and, more, includ- ing the out-boarders : that the diftribution of the ftudies is formed fo as to make only one clafs for the hiimanliks ; which cor- VoL. I. M refponds i62 T R A V E L S I N refponds with our firft four clafles ; that two others are deftined to the perfeding the youth in the ftudy of Latin and Greek • a fourth to natural i-Philofophy, Mathe- matics, Aftronomy, &c. and a fifth to moral Philofophy. Parents may fupport their children at this college at the annual expence of forty guineas. Half of this fum is appropriated to lodgings and mafters ; the reft is fufficient for living, either in the college, or at board in private houfes in the town. This ufeful eftablilhment has fallen into decay fmce the war ; there Were only forty ftudents when I faw it. A handfome coUedion of books had been made ; the greateft part of which has been embezzled. The Englifh even carried off from the chapel the portrait of the King of England, a lofs for which the Americans eafily confoled themfelves, declaring they Vv^ould have no King amongft tliem, not even a painted one. There ftill remains a very beautiful aftronomical machine; but as it was then out of order, and dif- fers in no refped from that I faw after- wards in Philadelphia, I (hall take no no- tice NORTH-AMERICA. 163 tice of it.* I confefs alfo that I was rather anxious to examine the traces of General Wafliington, in a country where every objed: reminded me of his fuccefles. I pafled rapidly therefore from Parnafllis to the field of Mars, and from the hands of Prefident Witherfpoon f into thofe of M 2 Colonel * This Is the celebrated Orrery of Rlttenhoiife, the fuppofed deftru6lion of which made fo much noife at the beginning of the civil war, and fullied the Englifh name in the eyes of all enlightened Europe. Juftice, however, requires from the Tranflator to declare, that from his inquiries, and examination on the fpot, the report had no other foundation than, that they intended to remove, and fend it as a prefent to the King. It may pollibly be faid, and would to God that fuch a conjecture were not too well warranted by the whole conduct of tlie war, that to this motive only may be attributed its pre- fervation; however that may be, their fudden dif- lodgment from Prince-Town preferved the Orrery, and, as far as that goes, the national chara£ler. Translator. f This gentleman is fo well known in Europe as to render it imuccefTary to enter into any particu- lars refpeCting him. He certainly played a much more important part on the theatre of this grand revolution, than by head)ng the low church party, as it is called in Scotland, and difplaying his elo- quence, as I have fcen him, at prefoyteries and fynods. Translator. 164 T R A V E L S I N Colonel Moyland. They were both equally upon their own ground ; fo that while one was pulling me by the right arm, telling me, Here is the philofophy clafs ; the other was plucking me by the left, to Ihew me where one hundred and eighty Englifh laid down their arms. Every perfon who, fmce the commence- ment of the war, has only given himfelf the trouble of reading the Gazettes, may recoiled: that General Walhington fur- prifed the town of Trenton the 25th of December, 1776; that, immediately after this expedition, he retired to the other fide of the Delaware, but that having re- ceived a fmall addition to his force, he repaired the river a fecond time, and en- camped at Trenton. Lord Cornwallis had now coUeded his troops, before dlfperfed, in winter quarters. He marched againft Walhington, who was obliged to place the AJfamp'ihy or river of Trenton, between the enemy and him. By this means the town was divided between the two armies ; the Americans occupying the left bank of the creek, and the Englifli the righj. NORTH-AMERIC A. 165 right. Lord Cornwallis's army was receiv- ing hourly reinforcements ; two brigades from Brunfwick were expected to join him, and he only waited their arrival to make the attack.* General Wafhington, on the other hand, was deftitute of pro- vifions, and cut off from all communica- tions with the fertile country of the Jerfeys, and the four eaftern ftates. Such was his pofition, when, on the fecond of January, at one o'clock in the morning, he ordered the fires to be well kept up, and fome foldiers to be left to take care of them, whilft the remainder of the army fhould march by the right, to fall back afterwards on the left, pafs the rear of the Englifh army, and enter the Jerfeys. It was necef- M 3 . fary * Lord CornwalHs made one or two attempts to force the fmall ftone bridge over the creek at Trenton, but was fo galled by a fmall battery which commanded it, and a body of chofen men, placed by General Wafhington in the Mill-houfe, that he gave up the attempt, from a contempt of hh enemy ; looking upon them as his certain prey, their retreat over the Delaware, then full of ice, being im- pradlicable ; for the fame reafon, probably, he made no attempt to crofs the creek in any other part. Translator. 166 TRAVELSIN fary to throw themfelves confiderably to the right, in order to reach Allens-T^owrij and the fources of the Affampik, and then to fall on Prince-Town. About a mile from this town, General W alhington's van- guard, on entering the main road, fell in with Colonel Mawhood^ who was march- ing quietly at the head of his regiment in his way to Maidenhead, and thence to Trenton. General Mercer immediately attacked him, but was repulfed by the enemy's fire ; he then attempted to charge with bayonet, but unfortunately, in leap- ing a ditch, was furrounded and put to the fword by the Engliih. The troops, who vrere in general militia, difcouraged by the lois of their commander, retreated into the woods, to wait for the remainder of the army, which arrived foon after : but Colonel Mawhood had continued his route to Maidenhead, fo that General Wafhing- ton had only to do with the forty-eighth regiment, part of which had appeared upon the main road on the firft alarm of the attack. He pufhed thefe troops vigor- oufly, difperfed them, and made fifty or fixty NORTH-AMERICA. 167 fixty prifoners. General Sullivan, how- ever, was advancing rapidly, leaving on his left the Prince-Town road, with the defign of turning that town, and of cut- ting off the retreat of the troops, who oc- cupied it, to Brunfwick. Two hundred Englifh had thrown themfelves into a wood by which he was to pafs, but they did not long hold it, and returned in dif- order to Najfrni-hall^ the name of the col- lege I have been fpeaking of. This they ought to have taken polTeffion of, and have there matle a vigorous defence. To all appearance their officers were bewildered, for inftead of entering the houfe, or even the court, they remained in a fort of wide ftreet, where they were furrounded and obliged to lay down their arms, to the number of one hundred and eighty, not including fourteen officers. As for General Waffi^ington, after taking or difperfmg every thing before him, he collected his troops, marched on to King's-Town, where he halted, as I have already mentioned, and continued his route towards Middlebrook ; having thus marched near thirty miles in M 4 one i68 TRAVELSIN one day, but ftill regretting that his troops were too much fatigued to proceed to Brunfwick, which he could have taken without any difficulty. Lord CornwaUis had now nothing left but to haften thither as faft as poffible with his whole army. From this moment, Pennfylvania was in fafety, the Jerfeys were evacuated, and the Englifh reduced to the towns of Brunfwick and Amboy, where they were obliged to slOl always on the defenfive, not being able to ftlr, nor even to forage, without being driven back, and roughly handled by the militia of the country. Thus Vv'e fee that the great events of war are not always great battles, and humanity, may receive fome confolation from this fole reflection, that the art of war is not necelTarily a flm- guinary art, that the talents of the com- manders fpare the lives of the foldiers, and that ignorance alone is prodigal of blood. The affair of Trenton, whence this ori- ginated, coft no dearer, and was perhaps more glorious, without being more ufeful. Mdifon faid, in vifiting the diiferent monu- ments NORTH-AMERICA. 169 merits of Italy, that he imagined hlmfelf treading on clajlc ground ; all my fteps were on martial ground, and I was in the fame morning to fee two fields of battle. I ar- rived early at Trenton, having remarked nothing interefting on the road, unlefs it be the beauty of the country, which every where correfponds with the reputation of the Jerfeys, called the garden of America. On approaching Trenton, the road defcends a little, and permits one to fee at the eaft end of the town the orchard where the Heffians haftily collected, and furrendered prifoners. This is almoft all that can be faid of this affair, which has been ampli- fied by the Gazettes on one fide and the other. We know that General Wafliing- ton, at the head only of three thoufand ' men, paifed the Delaware in dreadful wea- ther, on the night of the 24th and 25th of December ; that he divided his troops into two columns, one of which made a circuit to gain a road upon the left, leading to the Maidenhead-road, whilft the other marched along the river, ftraight to Trenton ; that the main guard of the Heffians was furprifed, and 170 T R A V E L S I N and that the brigade had fcarcely time to get under arms. The park of artillery was near a church ; they were attempting to harnefs the horfes, when the American van^ guard, which had forced the piquet, fired on, and killed almoft all of them. General Walhington arrives with the right column j the Heffians were furrounded, and fired a few random fhot, without order. General Wafhington fufFered them to do fo, but he availed himfelf of the firft moment of the flackening of their fire, to fend an officer who fpoke French to them, for our language fupplies the want of all others. The Hef- fians hearkened very willingly to his propo- fal. The General promifed that the efFed:s they had left in their houfes fhould not be pillaged, and they • foon laid down their arms, which they had fcarcely had time to take up. Their pofition was certainly not a good one ; nor can I conceive it poffible that this could be a field of battle fixed up- on in cafe of an alarm. Thev would have had a fure retreat by paffing the bridge over , the creek at the fouth end of the town, but the vanguard of the right column had got , I poiTeffion NORTH-AMERIC A. ip pofleffion of it. Such, in a few words, was this event, which is neither honourable nor difhonourable for the Heffians ; but which proves that no troops exifting can be reck- oned on, when they fuffer themfelves to be furprifed. After viewing fo many battles, it was but right to think of dinner. I found my head quarters well eftablifhed in a good inn kept by Mr. JViUlams. The fign of this inn is a philcfophical, or, if you will, a political emblem. It represents a beaver at work, with his litile teetL, to bring down a large tree, and underneath is written, perfe- verando. I had fcarce alighted from my horfe, before I received a vifit from Mr. Livingjlon^ * Governor of the Jerfeys. He is an old man much refpedl;ed, and who pafles for a very fenfible man. He was pleafed * This gentleman was fo active and ufeful in the revolution, that he was long the marked objeil of tory vengeance ; he was obliged, for many months, to lliift his quarters every day, and under the necef- fity of flceping every night an a different place ; but nothing could abate his ztal j he never quitted his governrpcnt, and was indefatigable in his exertions to animate the people. Translator. 172 TRAVELS IN pleafed to accompany me in a little walk I took before dinner, to examine the environs of the town, and fee the camp occupied by the Americans before the affair of Prince- Town. I returned to dinner with Colonel Moyland, Mr. de Gimat, and two Aides de Camp of M. de la Fayette, who arrived fome time before me. We were all ac- quainted, very happy to meet together and to dine at our eafe, when a Juftice of the Peace, who was at Trenton on bufniefs, and a Captain of the American artillery, came and fet down to table with us, without any ceremony ; it being the cuftom of the coun- try for travellers when they meet at the hour of dinner, to dine together. The dinner, of which I did the honours, was excellent ; but they did not feem to know that it was I who had ordered it. There was wine at table, a very rare and dear article in Ameri- ca; they drank moderately of it, and rofe from table before us. I had given orders that the dinner fliould be charged to me ; they learnt this on going out, but fet off without faying a word to me on the fubje£t. I liave often had occafion to obferve, that ther^ NORTH-AMERIC A. 173 there is more of ceremony than compli- ment in America. All their politenefs is mere form, fuch as drinking healths to the company, obferving ranks, giving up the right hand, &c. But they do nothing of this but what has been taught them, not a particle of it is the refult of fentiment ; in a word, politenefs here is like religion in Italy, every thing in practice, but without any principle. At four o'clock I fet out, after feparating, but not without regret, from the good Colo- nel Moyland. I took the road to Briftol, crofTmg the river three miles below Tren- ton. Six miles from thence you pafs a wood : and then approach the Delaware, which you do not quit till you arrive at Brif- tol. It was night when I got to this town. The inn I alighted at is kept by a NLr.Benezef, of French extraction, and of a very refpec- table ^aker family ; but he is a deferter from their communion. He is of the church of England, and has retained none of the acknowledged principles of his brethren, y except that of making you pay dearer than other people : in other refpeCts his inn is handfome, J74. T R A V E L S I N handfome, the windows look upon the Delaware, and the view from them is fu- perb ; for this river is nearly a mile broad, and flows through a very delightful coun- tryi * I left Briftol the 30th of November, be- tween nine and ten in the morning, and ar- rived at Philadelphia at two. The road leading to this city is very wide and hand- fome ; one pafles through feveral fmall towns or villages, nor can one go five hun- dred paces without feeing beautiful coun- try houfes. As you advance you find a richer and better cultivated country, with a great number of orchards and paftures ; every thing, in Ihort, anfwers the neigh- bourhood of a large town, and this road is not unlike thofe round London. Four miles * This laiullord, like his brethren at Richmond and Shooter's-hill, makes his guefts pay for the prof- |je£l, and he ha^ the fame temptations ; the ride from Philadelphia here on parties of pleafure being very common in fummer, and the fituation of his houfe on the great road to the Jerfeys, and the north- ward, always enfuring him a number of travellers. Translator. ^ N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 175 miles from Briftol you pafs the creek of Nejhaminy over a ferry. It is pretty large, and runs in fuch a direction as to form a fort of peninfula of the country between it and the Delaware. It had ftruck me from the view of the country, and from in- fpe£ling the chart, that on the retreat of Clinton, General Wafhington might have pafTed the fources of this river, and marched along it towards the Delaware. It would have covered his right flank, and, by this precaution, he would have been at liberty to have approached the Dela- ware, and to have crolTed it as foon as Clinton. Mr. de Gimat, to whom I made this obfervation, anfwered me, that General Wafliington never being fure of the moment when the Englifh would evacuate Phila- delphia, was afraid of quitting Lancafter, where he had all his magazines. The town of Frankfort^ which is about fifteen miles from Briftol, and five from Philadelphia, is pretty confiderable. A creek runs in the front of this town, over which are two flone bridges ; for it divides itfelf into two branches, one of which appeared to me to be artificial, 176 T R A V E L S 1 N artificial, and deftined to turn a great number of mills, that furnifh Philadelphia with flour. Thefe mills, fo neceflary for the fubfiftence of the two armies, made the town of ^rank- fort for a long time an obje ftill exifl proclaim profperity and abun- dance. You imagine you fee the country after a ftorm, fome trees are overthrown, but the others are ftill clothed with flow- ers and verdure. Before you enter Phila- delphia, you traverfe the lines thrown up by the Englifh in the winter of 1 777-8 ; they are ftill difcoverable in many places. The N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 177 The part of the lines I now faw, is that of the right, the flank of which is fupported by a large redoubt, or fquare battery, which commands alfo the river. Some parts of the parapet have been conftruded with an elegance v\^hich increafes labour, more than it fortifies the work: they are made in the form of a faw^ that is to fay, compofed of a feries of fmall redans^ each of which is capable only of containing three men. As foon as I had pafTed tliefe lines my eye was ftruck with feveral large buildings ; the two principal were a range of barracks conftrud- ed by the Englifh, and a large hofpital lately built at the expence of the Quakers. Infen- fibly I found myfelf in the town, and after following three or four very wide ftreets, perfedly ftraight, I arrived at the gate of M. le Chevalier de la Luzerne. It was juft twenty days fmce I left New- port, during which time I had only ftayed one at Voluntown, and three at the Ame- rican army. I was not forry therefore to get into quarters of refreftiment, and could not defire any more agreeable than the houfe of the Chevalier de la Luzerne. I Vol. L N had 178 T R A V E L S I N had a great deal of time to converfe with him before dinner ; for at Philadelphia, as in London, it is the cuilom to dine at five, and frequently at fix. I fliould have liked it as well had the company been not fo numerous, as to oblige me to make ac- quaintance with a part of the town ; but our minifter maintains a confiderable ftate, and gives frequently great dinners, fo that it is difficult not to fall into this fort of ambufcade. The guefts, whofe names I recoiled:, were Mr. Governor Morrisy^' a young man full of wit and vivacity, but unfortunately maimed, having loft a leg by accident. His friends congratulated him on this event, faying that now he would wholly dedicate himfclf to public bufinefs. IMr. Powel^ a man of confiderable fortune, without * This gentleman loft his leg by a fall from a phaeton. He is a man of exquifite wit, and an excel- lent underflanding. An admirable companion at the table, and the toilet, he was in univerfal requcft ; he was in all the fccrets of his namefake the financier, and re- fined in the darlchiftory of political intrigue. Notwith- ftanding his misfortune, Nature did not form him for inactirity. Translator. ll N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 179 without taking any part in the govern- ment, his attachment to the common caufe having appeared hitherto rather equivocal. Mr. Pendleton, Chief Juftice of South Caro- lina, a remarkably tall man, with a very diftinguifhed countenance ; he had the courage to hang three tories at Charles- Town, a few days before the furrender of the town, and was accordingly in great danger of lofmg his life, had he not efcaped out of the hands of the Englifh, though comprifed in the capitulation. Colonel Laurens, fon of Mr. Laurens, late Pre-, fident of Congrefs, and now a prifoner in. the Tower of London ; he fpeaks very good French, which is not furprifmg, as he was educated at Geneva ; but it is to his honour, that being married in London, he fhould quit England to ferve America ; he has diftinguifhed himfelf on feveral oc- cafions, particularly at German-'T'own where he was wounded.* Mr. White,-\ Chap- N 2 lain * Among the numerous traits that might be cited to do honour to this illuftrious young man, fo prematurely, and unfortunately loft to his family and his country, the iSa TRAVELSIN lain to Congrefs, a handfome man, and of a mild and tolerent charac^^er. General Mifflin^ Tranflator has fele6led the following ; extracted from the JournaU of Congrefs, — Thurfday, November 5, 1778. RefolveJ, " That John Laurens, Efq. Aide de Camp to Ge- neral Wafhington, be prefented with a continental com- miffion of Lieutenant Colonel, in teftimony of the fenfe which Congrefs entertain of his patriotic and fpi- rited fervices as a volunteer in the American army, and of his brave conduct in feveral actions, particularly in that of Rhode Ifland on the 29th of Auguft laft ; and that General Wafhington be directed, whenever an opportunity fiaall ofFer, to give Lieutenant Colonel Laurens comaaand agreeable to his rank.'* Friday, November 6, 1778. A letter of this day from Lieutenant Colonel John Laurens was read, expreffing " his grati- tude for the unexpe£led honour which Congrefs " were pleafed to confer on him by the refolutions " pafied yefterday, and the high fatisfaclion it would *' have afforded him, could he have accepted it " without injuring the rights of the officers in *' the line of the armv, and doing; an evident in- "jufiice to his colleagues in the family of the " commander in chief: that having been a fpec- " tator of the convulfions occafioned in the army by difputes of rank, he holds the tranquillity of it NORTH-AMERICA. Mifflm,X whofe talents have fhone alike in war and politics ; he has been Quarter- N 3 Mafter- *' too dear to be inftrumental in difturbing it ; and there- " fore entreating Congrefs to fupprefs the Refolve of " yefterdajr, ordering him a Commiflion of Lieutenant « Colonel ; and to accept his fincere thanks for the intended honour." Whereupon Refolved, That Congrefs highly approve the difin- terefted and patriotic principles upon which Lieutenant Colonel Laurens has declined to accept the promotion conferred on him by Congrefs." Translator. t Mr. White is the Clergyman of St. Peter's church, and brother to Mrs. Morris, the financier's lady. Translator. X I had the happinefs of enjoying the particular acquaintance of the General. He is a fmart, fenfible, a6live, and agreeable little man. I never faw him without thinking of Garrick; he is about the fame fize and figure, and his countenance fparkles with fignificance and exprefiion. To him and his brother I am indebted for the moft hofpitable re- ception, and continued civilities and attention; and the General, befides (hewing me on the fpot, the whole manoeuvres of German-Town, and the proceedings on the Marquis de la Fayette's expedi- tion over the Schuylkill, furnifhed me with many interefting particulars refpefting the condu^ of the war. I knew there was a difguft, and the caufe of it, but all his narratives feemed to be thofe of a man of honour, unmixed with perfonal confideratioiw. i82 TRAVELS IN Mafter-General of the army ; but quitted that place on account of fome preference fhewn to General Green. Don Francefco^ Charge des AfFakes of Spain : and I believe that is all that can be faid of him : M. de T'ernan^ a French officer in the fervice of America ; he had been employed in fome commiffions in America, and after execut- ing them, he took to the profeffion of arms ; he is a young man of great wit and talents ; he draws well, and fpeaks Englifh like his own language ; he was made pri- foner On fignifying my intention of making a tour into the interior parts of Pennfylvania, he was fo good as to give me the following letter of introdu6lion, to his friend Colonel Patton, in cafe I paffed by his neighbourhood. I have preferved it as character- iftic at once of his ovv'n franknefs, and American hofpitality. Dear Patton^ ' Mr, ' my particular friend will favour you with a vlfit at the Spring.'^ I have affured him that he will 7neet a hearty ivelccme. Philadelphia^ Tour's^ ylMay, 1782. THO. MIFFLIN. Translator. NORTH-AMERICA. 183 foner at Charles-Town:* the laft whofe name I recoiled; is Colonel Armmd^ that is, M. de la Rouerle^ nephew of M. de la Belinage. He was as celebrated in France for his paffion for Mademoifelle B- , as he is in America for his courage and ca- pacity, f His family having compelled N 4 him * He is at prefent a Colonel in the fervlce of Holland, in the legion of Maillebois. t M. le Marquis de la Rouer'ie was then very young : his fubfequent condufl has proved, that Na- ture, in giving a fufceptible and impaffioned mind, has not made him a prefent likely to be always fatal to him ; glory and honour have employed all its activity ; and it is an obfervation which merits to be configned in hiftory, as well as in this Journal, that carrying with him, as he did to America, all the heroic courage, and romantic notions of chivalry of the ancient French noblefle, he could fo well conform to Republican manners, that far from availing himfelf of his birth, he v/ould only make himfelf known by his Chriftian name : hence he was always called Colonel Armand. He commanded a legion which was deftroyed in Carolina, at the battle of Camden, and in the remainder of that unfortunate campaign. In 1781, he went to France, purchafed there every thing neceiTary for arming and equip- ping a new legion, and, on his return to Ame- rica, he advanced the coft of them to Congrefs. Be- fore the peace he was advanced to the rank of Brigadier General. 184 TRAVELSIN him to abandon an attachment the confe- quences of which they dreaded, he buried himfelf in a celebrated and profound retire- ment, (the monaftery of La Trappe. T.) but he foon quitted it for America, when he devoted himfelf to a more glorious abfti- nence, and to more meritorious m.ortifica- tions. His character is gay, his wit agree- able, and nobody would wi£h to fee him make the vow of filence. Such were the guefts with whom I got acquainted ; for I do not fpeak of M. de Dannemours, Conful of France, at Baltimore. M. de Marbois, Secretary of the embaffy, nor of the family of M. de la Luzerne, which is pretty confiderable. The dinner Vv^as ferved in the American, or if you will, in the Englifh fafhion ; confifting of two eourfes, one comprehending the entrees, the roaft meat, and the warm fide difhes ; the other, the fweet paftry, and confec- tionary. When this is removed, the cloth is taken off, and apples, nuts and chefnuts are ferved : it is then that healths are drank ; the coffee Vv^hich comes afterwards ferves as gt. lignal to rife from table. Thefe healths, 3 or N O R T H - A M E R I C A. iSs or toafls, as I have already obferved, have no inconvenience, and only ferve to pro- long the converfation, which is alw^ays more animated at the end of the repaft; they oblige you to commit no excefs, wherein they greatly differ from the Ger- man healths, and from thofe we flill give in our garrifons and provinces. But I find it an abfard, and truly barbarous pradice, the firft time you drink, and at the begin- ning of dinner, to call out fuccefhvely to each individual, to let him know you drink his health. The ador in this ridiculous comedy is fometimcs ready to die with thirft, whilfl: he is obliged to inquire the names, or catch the eyes of five and twenty or thirty perfons, and the unhappy pcrfons to whom he addreffes himfelf, with im- patience, for it is certainly not pofTible for them to bellow a very great attention to what they are eating, and what is faid to them, being inceflantly called to on the right and left, or pulled by the fleeve by charitable neighbours, who are fo kind as to acquaint them with the politenefs they iire receiving. The moft civil of the Ame- ricans t i86 TRAVELS I N ricans are not content with this general call ; every time they drink they make partial ones, for example, four or live per- fons at a time. Another cuftom completes the defpair of poor foreigners, if they be ever fo little abfent, or have good ap- petites : thefe ' general and partial attacks terminate in downright duels. They call to you from one end of the table to the other ; Sir^ will you permit tne to drink aglafs of wine with you? This propofal always is accepted, and does not admit the excufe of the Great-Coufm, one docs 7iot drink without being acquainted. The bottle is then paffed to you, and you muft look your enemy in the face, for I can give no other name to the man who exercifes fuch an empire over my will : you wait till he likewife has poured out his wine, and taken his glafs ; you then drink mournfully with him, as a recruit imitates the corporal in his exercife. But to do juftice to the Ame- ricans, they therafelves feel the ridicule of thefe cuftoms borrowed from Old England, and fmce laid afide by her. They propofed to the Chevalier de la Luzerne to difpenfe I with NORTH-AMERICA. 187 with them, knowing that his example ipould have great weigiit ; but he thought proper to conform, and he did right. The more the French are known to be in pof- feffion of giving their cuftoms to other nations, the more fhould they avoid the appearance of changing thofe of the Ame- ricans. Happy our nation if her Ambaf- fadors, and her travellers, had always fo corred an underftanding, and if they never loft fight of this obfervation, that of all men, the dancing mafter Ihould have the moft neslijrent air ! After this dinner, v^hich I may have pof- fibly fpun out too long, according to the cuftom of the country, the Chevalier de la Luzerne took me to make vifits with him."^-' The * The conduil of the Chevalier de la Luzerne in America juftified every idea that has been formed of the fuperior (kill and addrefs of the French nation o« embaflies, and in the cabinet. He not only con- formed to the manners, and cuftoms of the country^ but he ftudied the charader of every individual of the leaft importance. He rofe early in the morning, and w^atched the hour that beft fuited their conveni- ence, to vi^ait on the Members of Congrefs, and the leading men of ftate j at dinner he received company i88 TRAVELS IN The firft was Mr. Reed, Prefident of the State. This poll correfponds with that of Governor in the other provinces, but with- out of all political complexions, except offenjive tories ; his afternoons were chiefly employed in vifiting the ladies, and in paffing from one houfe to another j in thefe vifits he made no political exceptions, but on the contrary, paid his court particularly to the ladies in the fufpecSted families, an evidently wife policy ; in this clafs, he was fuppofed to have a very agree- able, as well as ufeful acquaintance, in the two Mifs C 's, who put no reftraint upon their tongues, but were well informed of all the tranfa61:ions of their party. Wherever he could not himfelf be prefent, Mr. Marbois, and Mr. Ottaw, the Secretaries, were diftributed, fo that you could not make an after- noon's vifit to a zvhig or tory family in the city, with- out being fure to meet with this political General or one of his Aides de Camp. When he made a public entertainment, and the prefence of the tory Jadies gave offence to thofe of the patriotic party, he always pleaded ignorance, contrived to fhift the blame from himfelf, and throw it on the Secretaries, who were left to fight the battle in the beft way they could over the tea table ; but all this was carried on with undefcribable addrefs, and fo managed as to keep all parties in good humour with him. He indulged every man's peculiarities, and beftowed the petites attentions on all. It is thus the French maintain their afcen~ dancy in the cabinet, which is worth a thoufand N O R T II- A M E R I C A. 189= out the fame authority; for the Govern- ment of Pennfylvania is purely democratic, confifting vlftories, and their fuperiorlty in the Courts of. Europe, under every varied form of Government, from Hol- land to Conftantinople. I cannot help contrafting with this policy, an inftance of Englifli diplomatic condudl:. — A very refpedlable fenator of Sweden, pre- vious to the revolution in that country, told me, that in a very hard ftruggle, between the Englifh and French parties in the fenate, on fome leading queftioi!, the Englifh Minifter applied to him in his turn, for his fufFrage j on his ftarting fome objedlion, the Minifter turned angry, affumed a haughty tone, and obferved that the Swedes did not know their true intereft, that they might do as they thought proper, that England was the only country that could fupport them, and left him much out of humour ; the fame language he held to all the fenators. The French Ambaffador, on the contrary, was paying his court to each fenator, in his family, diftributing favours, and making entertainments, and carried his point with barely Infmuating^ what would be agreeable to his Court. Compare this anecdote with the well-known condu£l in Holland, of a Minifter mightily extolled for his wifdom and experience, ^ir Jofeph Torkey and his memorials, before the late fatal breach with that country, and the fuccefs of the Duke de la Vauguyon, which nothing but fuch haughty, ill- timed language could have fo rapidly produced, and judge whether Sir William Temple would have done the fame. Translator. 190 T R A V E L S I N confifting only of a General Aflembly, or Houfe of Commons, who name an execu- tive Council, compofed of twelve members poffeffing very limited powers, of the exer- cife of which they are obliged to give an account to the AlTembly, in which they have no voice. Mr. Reed has been a Gene- ral Officer in the American army, and has given proofs of courage, having had a horfe killed under him in the fkirmifh near White-' marJJj. It is he, whom Governor Joun/ione ^.ttempted to corrupt in 1778, when Eng- land fent Commiffioners to treat w^ith Con- grefs ; but this attempt was confined to fome infmuations, entrufted to Mrs. Fer- gufon. Mr. Reed, who is a fenfible man, rather of an intriguing charad;er, and above all eager of popular favour, made a great clamoiu", and publiilied, and exaggerated tlie offers that were made him. The complaints of Mrs Fergufon, who found herfelf committed in this affair, a public de- claration of Governor Johnftone, whofe ob- jed: was to deny the fad:s, but which ferved only to confirm them ; various charges, and refutations, printed and made public, produced N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 191 produced no other efFed than to fecond the views of Mr. Reed, and to make him at- tain his end, of playing a leading part in the country. Unfortunately his preten- fions, or his intereft, led him to declare him- felf the enemy of Dr. Franklin.* When I was at Philadelphia, it was no lefs than matter of queftion to recall that refpedable man ; * I make no doubt that the M. de Chaftellux is correct in this afTertion, but thus much I can fay from perfonal knowledge, that Mr. Reed is one of the warmeft and moft ftrenuous fupporters of the prefent democratic conilitution of Pennfylvania, the work of Dr. Franklin, and to fubvert which almoft all the perfonal enemies of Mr. Reed have been la- bouring for fome years paft. In Philadelphia, in 1782, the parties of conftitutionalifts, and anti-con- ftitutionalifts ran fo high, as to occafion frequent perfonal quarrels. Another fa6t is well known to many pcrfous in Europe, and to every body in Ame- rica, that the attack on Dr. Franklin came from a much more powerful and intriguing quarter than that of Mr. Reed, who never was of any weight in Congrefs. Mr. Reed too was much attached to Gene- ral Waflilngton, whom the oppofers of Dr. Frank- lin's couftitution of Pennfylvania, affeSied to hold in no very high rcfpe61:. I never exchanged a word with Mr. Reed j my only wifli is to afcertain the truth. Translator. ig2 TRAVELSIN man ; but the French party, or that of Ge- neral Waihington, or to exprefs it ftill bet- ter, the really patriotic party prevailed, and the matter finiihed by fending an officer to France to reprefent the wretched ftate of the army, and to ailv for an aid of clothes, tents, and money, of which it flood in much need. The choice fell on Colonel Laurens. * Mr. * Colonel Laurens obtained fix millions of livres from the French Court, the greateft part of which was expended in clothing and neceflaries for the American army, on his arrival in Europe in the fpring of 1781. Mr. Gillon, who had the commif- fion of Commodore from the State of Carolina, and had been fent over to purchafe three frigates for that fete, came immediately from Holland to Paris, and prevailed on Colonel Laurens, who was of the fame ftate, to purchafe a large quantity of the clothing at Amffcerdam, a meafure highly ofFenfive to the French Court, to be fhipped on board his frigate the South Carolina^ which was to fail immediately^ and befides her great force, carrying twenty-eight forty-two pounder?, and twelve eighteens, had the legion of Luxembourg on board. The purchafe was made accordingly at Amfterdam, the goods iliipped on board the frigate, by which many private purpofes were anfwered to Mr. Gillon, who, on fome pretext however, after ma»y months delay, and the Colo- NORTH-AMERICA. 193 Mr. Reed has a handfome houfe, ar- ranged and furnifhed in the Englifh ftyle. nels return, removed the goods from the frigate, and fhipped them on board two Dutch veffels to be taken under Ms convoy ; but to thefe he foon gave the flip, leaving them in September in the Texel, with- out faying a word of his intention; finding he did not return, they were conveyed back in October to Am- fterdam, and re-landed at an enormous expence to America, and to the great lofs of the army, for whom they were intended as a fupply that winter ; yet, on his return, he had addrefs enough to elude every inquiry into this very extraordinary tranfac- tion, to which efcape, the univerfal efteem in which Jl4rs, GilloTiy his v/ife, was held, by every perfon in Carolina, contributed not a little. It may here be proper to correal: an error which has flipped into all the EngliOi public prints of the day, and particularly into Doclfleys Annual Regijier^ on the fubjefl of the frigate, the South Carolina. This frigate is men- tioned in the lifl of Admiral Zoutman^s, fleet in the engagement off the Dogger Bank in Augufb, 1781. The Tranflator was then at the Texel, faw the Dutch fleet fail, and relurn after tlie engagement ; during that interval had the frigate lying at anchor be- fore his eyes, and was ciofe to her, on board another vefiel off the end of the Haaks^ a great fhoal at the mouth of the Texel, when the Dutch fleet entered in the moft fhattercd condition. Mr. Gillon is him- felf a native of Rotterdam, but was on very bad terms with all the officers of the Dutch fleet, and in- deed with almofl all his countrymen. Translator. Vol. I O I found 194 TRAVELS IN I found there Mrs. WaJInngton^ who had juft arrived from Virginia, and was going to flay with her hufband, as fhe does at the end of every campaign. She is about forty, or five and forty, rather plump, but frefh, and with an agreeable face.*' After palling a quarter * I had the pleafure of paffing a day or two with Mrs. Waftiington, at the General's houfe in Vir- ginia, where fhe appeared to me to be one of the beft women in the world, and beloved by all about her. She has no family by the General, but was furrounded by her grand children, and Mrs. Cujiis^ her fon's widow. The family were then in mourning for Mr, Cuftis, her fon by a former marriage, whofe pre- mature death was fubje6l of public and private regret. He was brought up by the General as his own fon, and formed himfelf fuccefsfully on his model. He fucceeded him as reprefentative for Fairfax county, and promifed to be a very diftinguifhed member of fociety, but having gone down to York-Town, after the capture of Cornwallis, to view the works, he caught a malignant fever at one of the hofpitals, and was rapidly carried off. The General was uncom- monly affe6led at his death, infomuch that many of ' his friends imagined they perceived fome change in his equanimity of temper, fubfequent to that event. It is certain that they were upon terms of the moft affectionate and manly friendfliip. \ Translator. NORTH-AMERICA. 195 quarter of an hour at Mr. Reed's, we waited on Mr. Huntingdon, Prefident of Congrefs : We found him in his cabinet, Hghted by a fmgle candle. This hmphcity reminded me of that of the Fabricius's and the Phi- lopemens. Mr. Huntingdon is an upright man, who efpoufes no party, and may be re- Ued on. He is a native of Connecticut, and was Delegate for that ftate, when chofen Prefident. My day having been fufficiently taken up, the Chevalier de la Luzerne conducted me to the houfe where he had ordered lodgings to be prepared for me. It was at the Spanifh Minifter's, where there were feveral vacant apartments ; for M. Mirale^ who had occupied it, died a year before at Morris-Town. His Secretary has re- mained charge des affaires, mafter of the houfe, and well contented to enjoy the incarlco^ which includes in it, befides the correfpondence, a table maintained at the expence of the King of Spain. The Che- i valier de la Luzerne, though very well and agreeably lodged, had no apartments to O ^ fpare; 1^6 TRAVELS IN fpare ;* lie made them, however, contrive me one the next day, which contributed greatly to my happinefs during my ftay at Philadelphia, for I was fituated exadlly be- tween M. de Marbois, and him, and able to * The French Ambaffador's was a very handfomc houfe, hired of Mr. John Dickinfon, and Very near the feat of Congrefs. In one of thofe dreadful ftorms of thunder with which America is fo frequently vifit- ed in the fummer months, this houfe, though lower than the State-houfe, and that of his neighbour, Mrs. Allen, was ftruck by lightning, and a French officer, fitting alone in one of the rooms, burnt to death ; the lightning had fet fire to his clothes, and thrown him into a fainting fit, during which, part of his body was miferably fcorched, and his private parts reduced to aflies, fo that he furvived but a few hours ; but the principal ravage was in a chamber containing an iron bedjhad^ in which the Ambafiador himfelf flept, by w^ay of fccurity from the bugs ; in that room, large blocks of marble were rent in pieces, and torn from the chimney piece ; its eftedts, in fhort, were fo fingular in many refpe£l:s, and in fome fo contrary to received opinions, that Mr. Arthur Lee^ and Dr. RuJI)^ thought proper to publifli a very long and curious account of it ; and indeed, as far as I am able to judge, this ftroke prefented many new phoenomena of electricity. It may be proper to add, that this was the only houfe in the neighbourhood unproz'ided with an ele^rkal apparatus. Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 197 to converfe with them every moment of the day. That of the 2 2d commenced, like every other day in America, by a great breakfaft. As the dinners are very late at the Minifter's, a few loins of veal, fome legs of mutton, and other trifles of that kind are always in- troduced among the tea-cups, and are fure of meeting a hearty welcome. After this flight repaft, which only lafted an hour and a half, we went to vifit the ladies, agreeable to the Philadelphia cuftom, where the morning is the moft proper hour for paying vifits. We began by Mrs. BacJoe j £he me- rited all the anxiety we had to fee her, for (he is the daughter of Mr. Franklin. Sim- ple in her manners, like her refped:able father, fhe polTefTes his benevolence. She conducted us into a room filled with work, lately finifhed by the ladies of Philadelphia. This work confifted neither of embroidered tambour waiftcoats, nor net work edging, nor of gold and filver brocade — it v/as a quantity of fhirts for the foldiers of Penn- fylvania. The ladies bought the linen from their own private purfes, and took a plea- O 3 fure 198 T R.A V E L S IN fure in cutting them out, and fcwing them themfelves. On each fhirt was the name of the married, or unmarried lady who • made it, and they amounted to 2200. Here is the place, no doubt, to make a very moral^ but very trivial reflection on the dif- ference between our manners and thofe of America ; but as for myfelf, I am of opinion that, on a fi.milar occafion, our French women would do as much, and I even venture to believe that fuch works would infpire as agreeable verfes as thofe which accompany the annual prefents of cradles, coaches, houfes, caftles, &c. labo- riouily and aukwardly brocaded. It muft be allowed that this cuflom is an abundant fource of moft ingenious ideas ; but their harv^eft is paft, and they begin to be ex- haufted. But fhould any rigid French philofopher be difpofed to cenfure French manners, I would not advife him to addrefs himfelf to Mrs. P -, whom I waited upon on quitting Mrs. Bachc. This is the agreeable woman of Philadelphia ; her tafte is as delicate as her health : an enthufiaft to excefs for all the French fafhions, fhe only waits NORTH-AMERICA. 199 waits for the termination of this little revo- lution, to efFe(St a ftill greater one in the manners of her country. After paying due homage to this admi- rable female patriot, I hurried to make ac- quaintance with Mr. Morris. He is a very rich merchant, and confequently a man of every country, for commerce bears every where the fame charad:er. Under mo- narchies it is free ; it is an egotift in repub- lics ; a ftranger, or if you will, a citizen of the univerfe, it excludes alike the virtues and the prejudices that ftand in the way of its intereft. It is fcarcely to be credited, that amidft the difafters of Ame- rica, Mr. Morris, the inhabitant of a town juft emancipated from the hands of the Englifh, fhould pofTefs a fortune of eight millions (between 3 and 400,000!. fter- ling). It is, however, in the mod critical times that great fortunes are acquired. The fortunate return of feveral fhips, the lUH more fuccefsful cruizes of his privateers, have increafed his riches beyond his ex- pedations, if not beyond his wiflies. He is, in fad, fo accuftomed to the fuccefs of O 4 his « 20Q TRAVELSIN his privateers, that when he is obfervcd on a Sunday to be more ferious than ufual, the conclufion is, that no prize has arrived in the preceding week.* This flourilhing ftate * Mr. Morris has certainly enriched himfelf greatly by the war, but the houfe of JVilling and Morris did a great deal of bufinefs, and was well known in all the confiderable trading; towns of Europe, previous to that period. Mr. Morris had various other means of acquiring wealth befides pri- vateering ; amongft others, by his own intereft, and liis connedtions with Mr. Holker^ then Conful- General of France at Philadelphia, he frequently obtained exclufive permiilions to fliip cargoes of , flour, &c. in the time of general embargoes, by which he gained immcnfe profits. Flis fituation gave him many fimilar opportunities, of which his ' capital, his credit, and abilities always enabled him to take advantage. — On the ftrength of his ofEce, as Financier-General, he circulated his own notes of Robert Morris^ as cafli, throughout the continent, and even had the addrefs to get fome afiemblies, that of Virginia in particular, to pafs a£ls to make them current in payment of taxes. What purchafes of tobacco, what profits of every kind might not a man of Mr. Morris's abilities make with fuch powerful advantages ? The houfe the Marquis ipeaks of, in which Mr. Morris lives, belonged for- merly to Mr. Richard Penn ; the Financier has made great additions to it, and is the firll who has in- troduced NORTH-AMERICA. ftate of commerce, at Philadelphia, as well as in Maflachuffets bay, is entirely owing to the arrival of the French fquadron.f The troduced the luxury of hotr-houfes and ice-houfes on the continent. He has likewife purchafed the elegant country houfe formerly occupied by the traitor, Arnold, nor is his luxury to be outdone by any commercial voluptuary of London. This gentleman is a native of Manchefter in England, is at the head of the ariftocratical party in Penn- fylvania, and has eventually been inftrumental in. the revolution : in private life he is much efteemed, by a numerous acquaintance. Translatos.- f" Very large fortunes were made from nothing during this period, but this ftate of profperity was not of long duration; in 1781 and 1782, fo numer- ous were the King's cruizers, and privateers, that frequently not one veffel out of feven that left the Delaware efcaped their vigilance. The profits on fuccefsful voyages were enormous, but it was no uncommon thing to fee a man one day worth forty or fifty thoufand pounds, and the next reduced to nothing ; indeed thefe rapid tranfitions were fo fre- quent, that they almoft ceafed to afFe(51: either the comfort or the credit of the individual. Flour {hipped on board at Philadelphia, coft five dollars, and produced from twenty-eight to thirty-four dol- lar? a barrel in fpecie at the Havannah, which is generally but a fhort run, and the arrival of one 202 TRAVELS IN The Englifh have abandoned all their cruizes, to block it up at Newport, and in that they have fucceeded ill, for they have not taken a fingle floop coming to Rhode Ifland, or Providence. Mr. Morris is a large man, very fimple in his manners ; but his mind is fubtle and acute, his head perfectly well organized, and he is as w«il verfed in public affairs as in his own. He was a member of Congrefs in 1776, and ought to be reckoned among thofe perfonages who have had the greatefl in- fluence in the revolution of America. He is the friend of Dr. Franklin, and the decided enemy of Mr. Read. His houfe is handfome, refemibling perfedly the houfe s European cargo, out of three, amply repaid the merchant, fo that notwithftanding the numerous captures, the flocks were continually full of new veflels to fupply fuch as were loft or taken. In fliort, without having been upon the fpot at that period, it is impoiTible to conceive the adtivity and perfeverance of the Americans. There was fcarcely a captain, or even common failor, who had not been taken fix or feven times during the war, nor a merchant who had not been, more than once, rich and ruined. Translator. NORTH-AMERICA. 203 houfes in London ; he lives there without oftentation, but not without expence, for he fpares nothing which can contribute to his happinefs, and that of Mrs. Morris, to whom he is much attached. A zealous republican, and an Epicurean philofopher, he has always played a diftinguiflied part at table and in bufmefs.* I have already mentioned Mr. Powel, at prefent I muft fpeak of his wife ; and indeed it would be difficult to feparate from each other, two perfons, who for twenty years have lived together in the ftrid:eft union : I fhall not fay as man and wife, which w^ould not convey the idea of perfed: equality in Ame- rica, but as two friends, happily matched in point of underftanding, tafte, and in- formation. * Mr. Morris has fince filled for three years the poft of Financier, or Comptroller-General, which was created for him. He had for his colleague Mr. Governor Morris^ whom I have already mentioned, jind who has amply juftified the opinion enter- tained of his talents. It may fafely be aflerted, that Europe affords few examples of a perfpicuity, and a facility of underftanding equal to his, which adapts itfelf with the fame fuccefs to bufinefs, to letters, and to fciences. 204 T R A V E L S I N formation. Mr. Powel, as I have before faid, has travelled in Europe, and returned with a tafte for the fine arts ; his houfe is adorned with the moft valuable prints, and good copies of feveral of the Italian mafters. Mrs. Powel has not travelled, but fhe has read a great deal, and profitably : it would be unjuft perhaps, to fay, that in this £he differs from the greateft part of the Ame- rican Ladies; but what diftinguifhes her the moft is, her tafte for converfation, and the truly European ufe flic knows how to make of her underftanding and in- formation. I fear my readers (if ever I have any) may make this natural reflection, that vifits are very tirefome pieces of bufinefs every where, and as it is impoflible to efcape the epigrammatic turn of the French, without making great hafte, I am determined to get the ftart. I apprize them however, that I acquit them of a long din- ner, which the Chevalier de la Luzerne gave that day to the fouthern Delegates. I fhall have occafion to fpeak elfewhere of fome of thefe Delegates, and a.s for thofe who will not 1 N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 205 not give me that opportunity, they deferve to be pafled over in filence. Fearful left the pleafures of Capua fhould make me forget the campaigns of Hannibal^ and of Fabius^ I determined to get on liorfeback, on the fecond of December, to vifit the field of battle of German-T'own, Many recoiled, that after the defeat of Brandywine, in I'J']']^ the American army, not thinking proper to defend Philadelphia, retired to the upper Schuylkill^ whilft the Englifh took pofleffion, without refiftance, of the capital of Pennfylvania. Elated with their fuccefs, and full of that confidence which has invariably deceived them, they had divided and difperfed their forces : the greatefc part of their troops encamped upon the Schuylkill, four miles from Philadelphia ; another divifion occupied German-Tovvm, eight miles to the north- ward of that place, and they fent a con- fiderable detachment to Billingsport, to favour the palTage of their fleet, which was making fruitlefs endeavours to get up the Delaware. Thus circumftanced, General, VVadiington thought it was time to re- mind 206 1^ R A V E L S IN mind the Englifh, that there ft ill exifted an American army. One is at a lofs whe- ther moft to extol the fage intrepidity of the chief, or the refolution difplayed by his army in making an attack on the fame troops, whofe fhock they were unable to fuftain a month before. German-Town is a long town, or village, confifting of a fingle ftreet, not unlike La VilUtre^ or VaU" gtnard^ near Paris. From the firft houfe, at the fouth, to the laft, at the north end of the town, it is near two miles and a half. The Englifh corps which occupied, or rather covered it, was encamped near the laft houfes to the northward, and fo fttuated as that the ftreet, or main road, in- terfedied the camp at right angles. This body might amount to three or four thoufand men. General Wafhington, who occupied a pofition at ten miles diftance,*' on * There are many Uriking differences between this account, and that given by General Howe in his public difpatches, in his own narrative to the .houfe of commons, and in the examination of his witaeffes. The Englifh General reports, that Wafhington's camp near Skippack Creek, from NORTH-AMERICA. 207 on Sk'ippack Creek, left his camp towards midnight, marching in two columns, one ' of which was to turn German-Town on the eaftward, the other on the left ; two brigades of the right column were ordered to form the corps de referve, to feparate themfelves from that column, at the in- ftant whence he moved, was ftxteen miles from German- Town — The Marquis fays, only ten. The Englifh General ftrongly alTerts, that this affair was no fur- prife ( fee his narrative-^ and his examination of Sir George Ofborne)^ the Marquis feems to be well authorized to call it a complete furprlfe. The Gene- ral affirms he was prepared for it. The Marquis prove nay, the Englifli General's letters and narra- tive demonftrate how narrowly, and by what means his army, and the Britifli affairs efcaped total ruin. The General fays, "The enemy retired near twenty miles to Perkyoming Creek, and are now en- camped near Skippack Creek, about eighteen miles diftance from hence." The Marquis afferts, that *' The retreat was executed in good order, that General Wafhington took an excellent pofition with- in four miles of German-Town, fo that on the evening of the battle, he was fix miles nearer the enemy than before." How fhall we reconcile thefe effential contradictions, which ought unqueftion- ably to be difcufTed, for the interefl of truth, and the benefit of hiflory? Translator. * 2o8 TRAVELSIN ftant of the attack, and follow the mam ftreet of German-Town. A very thick fog came on, favourable to the march of the enemy, but which rendered the attack more difficult, as it became impoffible to concert the movements, and extend the troops» The militia marched on the right and left, without the two columns, not being committed in the affair, and always Ikirting the woods, on the Frankfort fide, as well as on that of the Schuylkill. Ge- neral Wafhington halted a moment before daylight, at a crofs road, diftant only half a mile from the picket, or advanced poll of the enemy. There he learnt from an Englifli dragoon, who was intoxicated, and had loft his way, that the Billingfport detachment was returned. This unexpect- ed intelligence did not change the Gene- ral's projed: ; he continued his march at the head of the right column, and fell upon the Englifh picket, who were furprifed^ put to rout, and driven to the camp, where they brought the firft news cf the arrival of the Americans. The troops fiew to arms, and precipitately fell back, leaving their N5RTH-AMERIC A. 2-9 their tents {landing, and abandoning all their baggage. This was a moment not to be loft, and French troops would cer- tainly have availed themfelves of it^ nay it would have been difficult to prevent them either from purfuing the enemy too far, or from difperfnig to plunder the camp. It is here w^e may form a judgment of the American charadier. Perhaps this army, notwithftanding the flownefs of its ma- noeuvres, and its inexperience in war, may merit the prailes of Europeans. General Sullivan, who commanded the column on the right, calmly and flowly formed the three brigades a head ; and after ranging them in order of battle, he traverfed the Englifh camp, without a fmgle foldier flopping for plunder : he advanced in this manner, leaving the houfes on the left, and driving before him all refiftance from the gardens and inclofures ; he penetrated into the town itfelf, and was fome time engaged with the troops who defended a fmall fquare near the market. Whilft every thing thus fucceeded on the right, General Wafhington, at the head Vol. L P of iro TRAVELSIN of the referve, was expecting to fee his left column arrive, and purfued his march by the main ftreet. But a fire of mufquetry, which proceeded from a large houfe with- in piftol {hot of the ftreet, fuddenly checked the A^an of his troops. It was rcfolved to attack this houfe; but cannon were necefTary, for it was known to be of ftone, and could not therefore be fet fire to. Unfortunately they had only fix pounders : the Chevalier Dupleffis-Mauduit, brought two pieces near another houfe, two hundred paces from the former. This cannonade produced no effe£l, it penetrated the walls, but did not beat them down. The Chevalier de Mau- duit, full of that ardour, which at the age of fixteen^ made him undertake a journey into GreecCj to view the fields of Platea and '^Ihermopylo'^ and at twenty go in fearch of laurels in America, refolved to attack by main force this houfe, which he was un- able to reduce by cannon. * He propofed to * In 1782 I vifited and pafled a very agreeable day at this celebrated Stone-houfe, fo brax'ely, and judicioufly defended by Colonel' Muf grove ^ and faw many marks of cannon and miifquet fhot in th© N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 211 to Colonel Laurens to take with him fome determined men, and get fome ftraw and hay from a barn, to fet fire to the principal door. One may conceive fuch an idea pre- lenting itfelf to two fpirited young men • but it is fcarcely credible, that of thefe two P 2 noble v/alls, doors, and window ftiutters, befides two or three mutilated flatues which flood in front of it. It is a plain gentleman's country-houfe, with four win- dows in front, and two ftories high, calculated for a fmall family, and ftands fmgle, and detached from every other building, fo that defended as it was by fix companies, commanded by fo gallant an officer, it was calculated to make a long refiftance againft every thing but heavy cannon. I here faw, what to me was perfedlly new, but in this perhaps I betray my ignorance; acock, though furrounded by hens, in frequent copulation with a duck. Being in com- pany with ladies, I had no opportunity of inquiring whether there was any, and what fort of produce. From the different fize of their bodies, the difference of their organization, and the mode of union, I could not help confidering it as not much lefs extraordi- nary than the Bruffels fable of the Hen and 'Rabbit; but in this, perhaps, every peafant can fet me right. This houfe formerly belonged to Mr. Chew, a loy- alilt, and was purchafed by Mr. Biair Mac Clenaghan-y who, from a very fmall beginning, has, by his induftry, fairly and honourably acquired a very confiderabls fortune. Translator, 212 T R A V E L S I N noble adventurous youths, one fhould be at prefent on his way to France, and the other in good health at Newport.* M. de Mau- duit making no doubt that they were follow- ing him w^ith all the ftraw in the barn, went ftraight to a window on the ground floor, which he forced, and on which he mounted. He was received, in truth, like the lover w^ho mounting a ladder to fee his miftrefs found the hufband waiting for him on the balcony: I do not know whether, like him too, on be- ing afked Vvhat he was doing there, he an- fwered, / am only taking a walk ; but this I know, that whilft a gallant man, piftol in iiand, defired him to furrender, another lefs polite entering brifkly into the chamber, fired a mufquet fhot, which killed, not M. de Mau- duit, but the officer who wifhed to take him. After thefe flight mifl:akes, and this little quarrel, the difficulty was for him to re- tire. On one hand he muft be expofed to a fmart * Mr. Laurens has fince fallen a vi£tini to his to inconfiderate valour : he was killed in Carolina, in a fKirmifli of little importance, a (hort time before the figning of the peace. NORTH-AMERICA. 21^. a fmart fire from the firft and fecond floor ; on the other, a part of the American army- were fpedators, and it would have been ri- diculous to return running. Mr. de Mau- duit, like a true Frenchman, chofe rather to expofe himfelf to death than ridicule j but the balls refpeded our prejudices ; he returned fafe and found, and Mr. Laurens, who was in no greater hafte than he, efcaped with a flight wound in his fhoulder. I muft not here omit a circumfl:ance which proves the precarious tenure of a military exifl:- ence. General Wafhington thought that 011 fummoning the commander of this poll, he would readily furrender ; it was propofed to M. de Mauduit to take a drum with him, and make this propofal ; but on his obferving that he fpoke bad Engiifh, and might not, perhaps, be underfl:ood, an American officer was fent, who being preceded by a drum, and difplaying a white handkerchief, it was imagined, would not incur the fmalleft rifque ; but the Englifli anfwered this officer only by mufquet fhot, and killed him on the fpot. P3 By 214 TRAVELSIN By this time tlie enemy began to rally : the Englilh army had marched from their camp near Schuylkill to fuccour German- Town, and Cornwallis was coming with all expedition from Philadelphia, with the grenadiers and chaffeurs, whilft the corps de referve of the American army were loling their time at the Stone-houfe, and the left column was fcarccly ready for the attack. The contefl: was now become too unequal, and it became neceffary to think of a retreat, which was executed in good order, and General Wafliington took an excellent pofition four miles from German-Town ; fo that on the evening of the battle, he was fix miles nearer the enemy than before. The ca- pacity he had juft difplayed on this occa- fion, the confidence he had infpired into an Jirmy they thought difheartened, and which, like the Hydra of the fable, re-ap- peared with a more threatening head, afto- niihed the Englilh, and kept them in awe, ' till the defeat of Burgoyne changed the afped: of affairs. This is the nioft favourable light in which we can view this day, unfortu- ^lately too bloody for any advantages derived from N O R T H - A M E R I C A, 215 from It. Military men who fhall view the ground, or have before them an accurate plan, will, I imagine, be of opinion, that the extenfivenefs of the objed: occafioned the failure of this enterprize. The project of firft beating the advanced corps, then the army, and afterwards of becoming mafters of Philadelphia, was abfolutely chimxerical : for the village of German-Town being up- wards of two miles in length, prefented too many obftacles for the alTailants, and too many points of rallying for the Englilh : befides that it is not in interfeded countries, and without cavalry, that great battles are gained, w^hich deftroy or difperfe armies. Had General Wafliington contented him- felf with proceeding to Whitemarfh, and covering his march with a large body of troops, which might have advanced to German-Town, he would have furprifed the Englifh van-guard, and forced them to re^ tire with lofs ; and if fatisfied with this fort of lelTon given to a victorious army, he had fallen back on the new pohtion he wiflied to occupy, he would have completely ful^ filled his objed, and the whole honour of,; P 4 the 2i6 TRAVELSIN the day been his. But, fuppofmg the pro- jed; of attack to be, fuch as was adopted, it appears to me that two flmlts, rather ex- ciifable 'tis true, were committed ; one, the lofmg time in ranging in Une of. battle General Sullivan's column, inftead of march- ing diredly to the camp of the enemy ; the other, the amufmg themfelves in attacking the Stone-houfe. The firil fault will ap- pear very pardonable to thofe who have feen the American troops fuch as they then were ; they had no inftrudion, and were fo ill-difciplined, that they could neither preferve good order in marching in a column, nor fprcad themfelves when it be- came neceflary ; for experience, which is always differing wdth M. de Menil T>iirand^ teaches us, that profound order is the molt fubjedto diforder and confuuon, and which confequently demands the moft phlegm and difcipline. The fecond error may be juftified by the hope they always had of get- ting poffelTion of the Stone-houfe, the im- portance of which v/as m^eafured by the ob- ilinacy of the enemy in defending it. It |s certain, that tw^o better meafures might have ^ N ORT H- A M E RI C A. 217 liave been adopted : the firft to purfue their inarch without regarding the lire of muf- quetry, which could always have been fuf- liciently flackened by detaching a few men to fire at tlie windows ; and the fecond, that of leaA^ng the village on the left, to enter it again three hundred paces further on, where it would then have been fafficient to take poffeffion of another houfe oppofite to thofe occupied by the enemy: though this houfe be not quite fo high as the for- mer, the fire from it would have checked the Englifh, and fecured a retreat in cafe of neceffity.* In allowing myfelf this fort of cenfure, I feel how much I ought to miftruft my own judgment, efpecially as I was not prefent at the ad:ion ; but I made the fame obfervations to M. Laurens, M. de Mauduit, and M. de Gimat, who feemed to be unable to refute them. We have feen the fliare the two for- mer Poflibly the Marquis does not know that there were fix companies of j the 40th regiment in this houfe ; no def- picable enemy to leave in the rear of fuch an army as General Wafliington's was compofed of. TranslatoRo 2lS TRAVELS IN mer had in the engagement ; the third has feveral times viewed the field of battle with General Wafhington, who explained to him the motions of the two armies, and nobody is better calculated to hear well, and to give a good account of what he has heard. After fufficiently examining the pofition of German-Town, I returned to Philadelphia by the fliorteft road, and quicker than I came, for the cold was very piercing, and I had only time to drefs myfelf to accompany the Chevalier de la Luzerne to dine with the Northern Delegates, It muft be un- derftood, that the Delegates, or if you will, the Members of Con^^refs, have a tavern to themfelves, where they give frequent enter- tainments ; but that the company may not be too numerous at a time, they divide themfelves into two fets, and as we fee, very geographically ; the line of demarka- tion being from eaft to weft.* The dinner was * There is a great probability of feeing this line of demarkation more diftin6tly marked, by a feparation ©f the fcEderal union into two parts., at no very dif- tant day ; but not on hoftile, or unfriendly terms. This was matter of frequent difcuflion during my N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 219 was plain and good, and our reception polite and cordial, but not ceremonious. Two Delegates placed at each end, did the honours of the table. Mr. Diiane, Deputy from the State of New York, oc- cupied the fide I was on. He is of a gay and open character, has no objection to talk, and drinks without repugnance, I con- verfed fome time, but lefs than I could have wifhed ilay at Philadelphia, and feemed to be an opinion which was daily gaining ground. hideed it feems to be a meafure which fooner or later muft take place, from the obvious dilficuliies attending the management, and operations of a confederacy extending from Florida to Nova Scotia, a country, every day increafmg in population, and branching out into new Jlatcs. Such a divifion muft, in my opinion, give new force and energy to each part of it, and produce more union and activity in their councils : nor do I fee any bad confe- quences arifmg from fuch an amicable feparation, ex- cept in the cafe of a v/ar exadtly fimilar to the laft, a cafe v/hich I believ.e every man will agree is fcarcely within the line of poiTibility. Local obftacles to a long continuance of the prefcnt ftate of things, muft alone infallibly produce it. They who are acquaihted with America will add many reafons, which it is unneceftary for me to enumerate. Translator. t 220 TRAVELS IN wlfhed with Mr. Charles 'Thompfon^^ Secre- tary of Congrefs. He pafTes, with reafon, for one of the beft informed men in the country, and though he be a man of the cabinet, and mixing Httle with fociety, his manners are poUte and amiable. Mr. Samuel Adams^ Deputy for MaflachulTets Bay, was not at this dinner, but on rifing from table I went to fee him. When I en- tered his room, I found him tete-a-tete, with a young girl of fifteen who was preparing his tea ; but we fliall not be fcandalized at this, on confidering that he is at leaft fixty. Every body in Europe knows that he was one of the prime movers of the prefent re- volution. I experienced in his company the fatisfadion one rarely has in the world, nay even on the theatre, of finding the per- fon of the aQor correfponding v/ith the charadler he performs. In him, I faw a man wrapt up in his objedl, who never fpoke but to give a good opinion of his caufe, and a high idea of his country. His fimple * Mr. Thompfon is an Irifliman ; his nephew, Mr, Sinclair^ is a bari ifter at York in England. . Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. z2i fimple and frugal exterior, feemed intend- ed as a contraft with the energy and extent of his ideas, whieh were wholly turned to- wards the republic, and loft nothing of their warmth by being exprefled with me- thod and precifion ; as an army, marching towards the enemy, has not a lefs determined air for obferving the laws of tadics. Amongft marly fads he cited in honour of his coun- try, I fhall relate one which merits to be tranfmitted to pofterity. Two young fol- diers had deferted from the army, and re- turned to their father's houfe. Their fa- ther, incenfed at this adion, loaded them with irons, and conducted them himfelf to their General, Lord Stirling. He did what every other officer would have done, in his place, — he pardoned them. The fa- ther, as patriotic, but lefs auftere than a Roman, was happy to preferve his children j neverthelefs he feemed aftonifhed, and ap- proaching the General, my Lord, fays he, with tears in his eyes, '"T'is more than I hoped for, — I quitted Mr. Adams with re- gret, but with a full intention of feeing him again, and my evening' terminated by a vifit to / 222 T R A V E L S I N to Colonel Bland^ one of the Delegates for Carolina. He is a tall handfome man, who has been in the Weil-Indies, where he ac- quired French. He is faid to be a good foldier, but at prefent ferves his country, and ferves it well, in Gongrefs. The Southern Delegates, in fa£l, have great credit, they are inceffantly labouring to draw the attention of the Government towards them, and to avert every idea of purchafmg peace on their account. The weather was fo bad the third that it was impoffible to ftir out. I had no reafon to complain however of the employment of this day, Vvhich 1 palled either in converfa- tion vdth M. de la Luzerne, and M. de Mar- bois, or in reading fuch interefting papers as they were pleafed to communicate. Mr. Huntington having inform-ed me, that the next day he would fliew me the hall in which the Gongrefs aiTembles, I went there at ten o'clock, and found him waiting for me accompanied by feveral Delegates. This hall is fpacious, without magnificence ; its handfomeft ornament is the portrait of General Wafhiogton, larger than life : He is NORTH-AMERICA. 223 is reprefented on foot, in that noble and eafy attitude which is natural to him ; cannon, colours, and all the attributes of war form the accefTories of the pidiure. I was then conducted into the Secretary's hall, which has nothing remarkable but the manner in which it is furnifhed ; the colours taken from the enemy ferve by way of tapeftry. From thence you pafs to the library, which is pretty large, but far from being filled ; the few books it is compofed of, appear to be well chofen. It is in the town-houfe that Congrefs hold their meetings : this building is rather handfome; the ftaircafe in particular is wide and noble : as to ex- ternal ornaments, they confift only in the decoration of the gate, and in feveral tab- lets of marble placed above the windows. I remarked a peculiarity in the roof, which appeared new to me : the chimneys are bound to the two extremities of the build- ing, which is a long fquare, and are fo con- ftruded, as to be faftened together in the form of an arch, thus forming a fort of portico. 3 After 224 TRAVELSIN After taking leave of the Prefident and Delegatt;s, I returned to the Chevalier de la Luzerne's, and as the ftreets were co- vered with ice, I ftaid at home, where I received a vifit from Mr. Wilfon^ * a cele- brated lawyer, and author of feveral pam- phlets on the prefent affairs. He has in his library all our beft authors on public law and jurifprudcnce ; the works of Prefi- dent Montefquieu, and of the Chancellor d'Aqueflau, hold the firft rank among them, and he makes them his daily ftudy. After dinner, which was private and a la Fran- coife^ I went to fee Mrs. Bingham, a young and handfome woman, only feventeen : her hufband, who was there, according to the American cuftom, is only five and twenty :f he * Mr. Wilfoii Is a Scotcliman, and is making a fortune rapidly in the profeilion of tlie law at Phi- ladelphia. He is about four and forty, a man of real abilities, and Mr. Morris's intimate friend and coadjutor in his ariftocratic plans. Translator. t Kir. Bingham, even at this age, returned from Martinico with a very handfome fortune. In the year 1782, he gained a very confiderable fum by opening policies on the capture of the Count de NORTH-AMERICA. 225 he was Agent of Congrefs at Martiriico, from whence he is returned with a tolera- ble knowledge of French, and with much attachment de GrafTe in the Ville de Paris j an event, of which there is little doubt he had fecret and fure intelligence from his conne£lion with the iflands. They firft opened at 10, and afterwards were done at 25 and 30 per cent. Very large fums were underwritten, chiefly by the whigs^ who were unwilling, and could hot be brought to credit this piece of news* Cir- cumftances were peculiarly favourable to this fpecu- lation, for, notwithftanding the great intercourfe between the Weft-Indies and the Continent, only two accounts of this affair arrived for fix weeks after the engagement ; the event of which was fooner known, with certainty, in England. The one was in Rivington's New York paper, copied from the Antigua Gazette, and lamely given; befides, that his paper was defervedly in univerfal difcredit; the other was brought to Philadelphia by the Holkcr pri- vateer, Captain Keane, who faw part of the engage- ment, but whofe account contradicted the principal fa£ts in Rivington's. The two fleets having gone to leeward after the battle, no frefh intelligence was re- ceived from the leeward^ or. more properly fpeaking here, in the windward iflands, fo that this gambling was carried to fo high a pitch, as to induce the French AmbaflTador to go in perfon to the coffce- houfe to communicate a letter he had received from Martinique, fubfequent to the battle; from which Vol. I. fair 226 T R A V E L S I N attachment to the Marquis de Bouille. I pafled the remainder of the evening with Mrs. Powell, where I expeded to have an a2:reeable converfation : in which I was not deceived, and forgot myfelf there till pretty late. I went again to the Town-Houfe, on the 5th, but it was to be prefent at the Aflem- bly of the State of Pennfylvania ; for the hall, where this fort of parliament meets, is under the fame roof with the Congrefs. I was with M. de la Fayette, the Vicomte de Noailies, . the Comte de Damas, M. de Gimat, and all the French, or Gallo-Ame^ ricans^ fair conclufions might be drawn againji the capture ; but thisj inftead of putting a flop to the gambling, by encouraging the whigs, increafed it : — Mr. Bingham and his friends in the fecret, indulged them to the utmofl extent of their enthufiafm j and if the policies were all paid, a matter which began to be a fubje(Sl of difcuffion when I left Philadelphia, muft have gained prodigious fums^ for no lefs than from £. 80,000 to £. 100,000 fterling were calcu- lated to have been written. It is a ftngular circum- fiance, that the firft authentic account of this great battle, which appeared in America, was copied from the London Gazette. Whereas we had at Bofton the account of the lofs of the Royal George, at Spithead, the idih day after the accident, by way of Newfound- land. Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 227 rkansy at Philadelphia. We feated our- felves on a bench oppolite the Speaker's chair : on his right was the Prefident of the State, the Clerks were placed at a long table before the Speaker. The debates turned on fome mifcondud:, imputed to the Commiffioners of the Treafury. The exe- cutive council were fent for and heard. General Mifflin was almoft the only fpeaker * he delivered himfelf with grace and fpi~ rit, but with a marked intention of op- pofmg the Prefident of the State, who is not one of his friends. His manner of ex- prelfmg himfelf, his geftures, his deport- ment, the air and eafe of fuperiority he in- variably alTumed', perfectly reminded me of thofe members of the Houfe of Commons who are accuftomed to give the tone to others, and to make every thing bend to their opinion. The aifair not being ter- minated in the morning, the Speaker left the chair ; the houfe went into a committee, and adjourned. The morning was not far fpent, and I had enough to employ if ; I was expected in three places ; by a lover of natural 0^2 hiftory, 228 TRAVELSIN hiftory, by an anatomlft, and at the col- lege, or rather imlverfity of Philadelphia. I began by the cabinet of natural hiftory. This fmall and fcanty coUedion, is greatly celebrated in America, where it is un- rivalled ; it was formed by a painter of Geneva, called Cimetiere^ a name better fuited to a phyfician, than a painter. This worthy man came to Philadelphia twenty years ago, to take portraits-, and has continued there ever lince ; he lives there ftill as a batchelor, and a foreigner, a very uncommon inftance in America where men do not long remain without acquiring the titles of huf- band and citizen. What I faw moft curi- ous in this cabinet, was a large quantity of the ^vc^?, or fcrew, a fort of fhell pretty common, within which a very hard ftone, like jade^^ is exadly moulded. It appears clear to me, that thefe petrifadions are formed by the fucceffive accumulation of lapidific molecules conveyed by the waters, and aiilniilated by the affiftance of fixed air. * See Chambers^s Eyicychpedia-~% green fort of precious ftone, called in France la pierre divine^ from its fuppofcd myftic qualities. I N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 229 air. After fatiguing piy legs, and fatisfy^- ing my eyes, which is always the cafe in cabinets of natural hiftory, I thought pro- per to quit the earth for heaven ; or, in the •vulgar ftyle, I went to the library of the univerfity, to fee a very ingenious machine (an Orrery) reprefenting all the celeftial motions. I lofe no time in declaring that I fhall not give a defcription of it ; for nothing is fo tirefome as the defcription of any machine ; it is enough for me to fay, that one part of it gives a perfed: view, on the vertical point, of all the motions of the ' planets in their orbits ; and that the other, which is defigned only to re- prefent that of the moon, difplays, in the cleareft manner, her phafes, her nodes, and her different altitudes. The Prefident of the college,* and Mr. Rittenhoufe^ the in- 0^3 ventor * The Prefident is Dr. Ewlng. I had the gratifi- cation of being prefent at a public exhibition at the college, at which the Congrefs, the Prefident and executive council of the Hate, General Wafhington, the French Minifter, and all the ftrangers of diftlnc- tion, &c. affifted. Some excellent declamations were made in Latin, and in Englifli, by the young men who were about to leave college, and obtain degrees 5 230 TRAVELS I N yentor and maker of this machine, took the pains of explaining to me every parti- cular : degrees ; by no means inferior to thofe I have heard at Oxford and Cambridge. Their compofitions in general were elegant, and their elocution eafy, dig- nified and manly j but whatever was the fubje(3:, the great caufe of liberty and their country never was loft fight of, nor their abhorrence of the tyranny of Britain. This language in the mouths of fome of thefe young men, v/ho were the fons of tories^ illuftrated the remark of the fhrewd and fenfible author of Common Senfe^ that whilft the war v/as depending, the old prejudiced friends of Britain were dropping off, and the rifing generation, in the courfe of feven years, knew no- thing of that country but as an enemy, nor faw, or heard of any thing but her cruelties and de- vaftation. To them the independence of America appeared as much the natural and eftablifned govern- ment of the country, as that of England does to an Englifhman. " Time and Death, fays he, hard . " enemies to contend with, fight conftantly againft " the interefts of Britain ; and the bills of mortality, in every part of America are the thermometers of her " decline. I'he children in the ftreets are from their cradle bred to confider her as their only foe. They hear of her cruelties : of their fathers, uncles, and kindred killed ; they fee the remains of burnt and *' deftroyed houfes, and the common tradition of " the fchool they go to, tells them thofe thinp iverc " done by the BntifK^' I NORTH-AMERICA. 231 cular : they feemed very happy that I knew Englilh, and aftronomy enough to under- fland them ; on which I miift obferve, that the latter article is more to the fhame of the Americans than to my praife ; the al- manack being aimoft the only book of Aftronomy ftudied at Philadelphia. Mr. Rittenhoufe is of a German family, as his name announces ; but he is a native of Phi- ladelphia, and a watch-maker by profeffion. He is a man of great fimplicity and mxcdefty, and though not a mathematician of the clafs of the Eulers, and the D'Alemberts, knows enough of that fcience to be perfectly ac- quainted with the motions of the heavenly bodies. As for his mechanical talents, it is unnecelTary to affign a reafon for them; we know that of all others, they are lefs the refult of ftudy, and moft generally the gift of nature ; and it is a fad worthy of obfervation, that, notwithftanding the little connexion to be perceived between that particular difpofition and the delicacy of our fenfes, or the perfedion of our organs, men are more frequently born me- chanics, than painters and muficians. Edu- 0^4- cation, 232 TRAVELSIN cation, nay, even the rigour of education^ frequently makes great artifts in the two latter ; but there is no example of its making a mechanical genius. This morning feemed devoted to the fciences, and my walks v/ere a fort of ency- clopedia, for, on quitting the univcrfity library, I went to call upon a celebrated anatomift, called Dr. ShowelL The fol- lowing, in a few words, is his hiftory : he was born in England upwards of feventy years ago. After ftudying medicine and furgery there, he vv^ent to France to im- prove himfelf under M. Winflow. In 1 734, he went to the Weft Indies, where he fmce pra£lifed medicine, fometimes at Barbadoes, fometimes at Jamaica ; but is in- variably a man of application, and laborious. In the war of 1 744, a prize being brought into Barbadoes, with a great deal of wax on board, Mr. Showell took this opportunity to make different anatomical experiments in wax, and he fucceeded fo well as to carry this art to the higheft degree of perfediion. On feeing him, one can with difficulty con- ceive how fo much patience and perfeve- rance NORTH - AMERICA. 23% ranee could confift with his natural vivacity; for it feems as if the fan of the tropic had preferved in him all the heat of youth ; he fpeaks w^ith fire, and exprelTes himfelf as well in French as if he were ftili in our fchools of furgery. In other refpeds, he is a perfect original : his reigning tafte is difputation ; when the Englifh were at Philadelphia he was a whig, and has be^ come a tory fmce they left it; he is al- ways fighing after Europe, without re- folving to return, and declaiming conftant- ly againft the Americans, he ftill remains amongft them. His defign in coming to the continent, was to recover his health, fo as to enable him to crofs the feas : this was about the commencement of the war ; and, fmce that time, he imagines he is not at liberty to go, though no body prevents him. He was to me a greater curiofity than his anatomical preparations, which, however, appeared fuperior to thofe of Bo- logna, but inferior to the preparations of Mademoifelle Bkron; the wax having al- ways a certain luftre which makes them lefs like nature. At i34 TRAVELS I N At the end of this morning's walk I was like a bee, fo laden with honey that he can hardly regain his hive. I returned to the Chevalier de la Luzerne's with my me- mory well ftored, and after taking food for the body as well as mind, I dedicated my evening to fociety. I was invited to drink tea at Colonel Bland's, that is to fay, to attend a fort of alfembly pretty much like the converfazzioni of Italy ; for tea here is the fubftitute for the r'mfrejco. Mr. How- ley^ Governor of Georgia, Mr. I%ard^ Mr. Arthur Lee^ (the two laft lately arrived from Europe) M. de la Fayette, M. de Noailles M. de Damas, &c. were of the Party. The fcene was decorated by feveral married and unmarried ladies, among whom, Mifs Ship- fen^ daughter of Dr. Shippen, and cou- fm of Mrs. Arnold^ claimed particular dif- tindion. Thus we fee that in America the crimes of individuals are net reflected on their family ; not only had Dr. Shippen's brother given his daughter to the traitor Arnold, a fhort time before his defertion, but it is generally believed, that being himfelf a tory, he had infpired his daugh- ter N O Pv T H - A M E R I C A. I35 ter with the fame fentiments, and that the charms of this handfome woman contributed not a httle to haften to criminality a mind corrupted by avarice, before it felt the power of love.* On our return to the Chevalier de la Lu- zerne's we alfembled all the French and Gallo-American military, and laid our plan for a very agreeable jaunt we took next day. The 6th in the morning, M. de la Fayette, the Vicomte de Noaiiles^ the Comte de- Damas, the Chevalier du Pleffis Mau- duit, Meffieurs de Gimat and De Neville, Aides de Camp of M. de la Fayette, M. de Montefquieu, Mr. Lynch, and myfelf, fet out to viiit the field of battle of Brandywine^ thirty * Mrs. Arnold is faid to be very handfome ; but this I know, that her two fifters are charming wo- men, and muft have been very dangerous compani- ons for a wavering mind, in the leart fufceptible of the moft powerful of all paffions. But an apology fdr Arnold, on this fuppofition, is too generous for a rnind fo thoroughly bafe and unprincipled as his. With what delicacy could be beloved a v^^oman by that mifcreant who made the myfteries of the nuptial bed the fubjefb of his coarfe ribaldry to his companions, the day after his marriage ! Translator, 2t35 TRAVELS IN thirty miles from Philadelphia. M. de la Fayette had not feen it, fmce at the age of twenty, feparating from his wife, his friends, the pleafures of the world, and thofe of youth, at the diftance of three thou- fand miles, he there fhed the firft drop of blood he offered to glory, or rather to that noble caufe he has invariably fupported with the fame zeal, but with better for- tune. We pafTed the Schuylkill at the fame ferry where Mr. Du Coudray was drowned in 1777. We there difcovered the traces of fome entrenchments thrown up by the Englifh after they became mailers of Phi- ladelphia ; then turning to the left, we rode on fourteen miles to the little town of Chefter. It is built at the jundtion of the creek of that name, with the Delaware, and is a fort of port where velTels coming up the river fometimes anchor. The houfes, to the number of forty or fifty, are hand- fome and built of ftone or brick.* On leaving Chefter, and on the road to Brandy- wine, we pafs the ftone bridge where M. de * Not far from this town, is found an aftonifli- ing quantity of ajhefm. Translator. / NORTH-AMERICA. 237 de la Fayette, wounded as he was, flopped the fugitives, and made the firft difpofitions for rallying them behind the creek. The country beyond it has nothing particular, but refembles the reft of Pennfylvania, that is to fay, is interfperfed with, woods and cultivated lands. It was too late when we came within reach of the field of bat- tle, and as we could fee nothing till next morning, and were too numerous to re- main together, it was neceffary to feparate into two divifions. Meffieurs de Gimat, De Mauduit, and my two Aides de Camp, ftaid with me at an inn, three miles on this fide Brandywine ; and M. de la Fayette, at- tended by the other travellers, went further on to aik for quarters at a Quaker's, called Be?ijam/n Ring, at whofe houfe he lodged with General Wafhington the night before the battle. I joined him early the next morning, and found him in great friendfhip with his hoft, who, Quaker as he was^ feemed delighted to entertain the Marquis, We got on horfeback at nine, provided with a plan, executed under the direction of Ge- neral Howe, and engraved in England ; but we 238 TRAVELS IN we got more information from an American Major, with whom M. de la Fayette had appointed a place of meeting. This officer was prefent at the engagement, and his houfe being on the field of battle, he knew it better than any body. We miift recoiled, that in 1777, the Englifli having in vain attempted to crofs the Jerfeys to get to Philadelphia by land, , were obliged to embark, and doubled the capes to reach the bay of Chefapeak, and the mouth of the river EIL They arrived there the 25th of Auguft, after a paflage dreadful by fea, but fortunate in the bay, which they remounted with much lefs dimculty than they expeded. Whilft the fea, the winds, and three hundred veflels were afhfting the manoeuvres of the enemy's army, Mr. Wafliington remained fome days at Middlebrook, in one of the moil embarraffing pofitions in which the General of an army can be placed. To the north, the troops of Burgoyne, after taking Ticon- deroga, were advancing towards Albany ; to the fouth, an Engliih army of fifteen, thoufand men were embarked, and might either N O R T H-AM E R I C A. 239 cither proceed to Chefapeak bay, as they did, penetrate by the Delaware, or go up Hudfon's river as far as Creft Point, to form. . a jundion with Burgoyne, and cut oiF the American army, which from that moment would have been for ever feparated from the eaftern and northern ftates. Of all the chances, this was certainly the moji to be dreaded^ accordingly General Wafhington did not abandon his pofition at Middle- brook, till he received certain intelligence that the enemy had doubled Cafe May.. Let us figure to ourfelves the fituation in which a General muft find himfelf, when obliged to comprehend in his plan of de- fence, an Immenfe country, and a vaft ex- tent of coaft, he is at a lofs to know, within one hundred and fifty miles, where the enemy is^ likely to appear ; and having no. .longer any intelligence of them, either by patroles, or detachments, or even by cou- riers, is reduced to the neceffity of ob- ierving the compafs, and of confulting the winds, before he can form any refolution* As foon as the movement of the enemy was decided. General Wafhington loft no time 240 T R A V E L S I N time in marching his army ; I fhould rather fay his foldiers, for a number of foldiers, however confiderable, does not always form an army. His was compofed of at moil 12,000 men. It was at the head of thefe troops, the greateft part of them new levies, that he traverfed in filence the city of Philadelphia, whilfl: the Congrefs were giving him orders to fight, yet removing their archives and public papers into the interior parts of the country; a fmifter pre- fage of the fuccefs which muft follow their council. The army pafTed the Schuylkill, and occupied a firft camp near Wilmington^ on the banks of the Delaware. This pofition had a double objed, for the Ihips of war, after convoying General Howe to the river Elk, had fallen down the bay of the Chcfapeak, remounted the Delaware, and ieconded by fome troops landed from the fleet, appeared inclined to force the paf- fages of that river. General Wafhington, however, foon perceived that the pofition he had taken became every day more dan- gerous. The Englifh, having finifhed their debarkation, NORTH-AMERJ. CA» 241 ikbarkatlon, were ready to advance into the country ; his flank, was expofed, and he ieft uncovered, at once, Philadelphia and the whole county of Lancafler. It was determined therefore that the army Ihould repafs the Creek of Brandywine, and en- camp on the ieft bank of that river. The pofition made choice of, was certainly the heft that coidd be taken to dlfpute the palTage. The left was very good, and fap- ported by thick woods extending as far as the junclion of the creek with the Dela- ware. As it approaches its conflux, this creek becomes more and more embanked, and difficult to ford : the heights are equal on the two banks ; but for this reafon the advantage was in favour of him who de- fended the palTage. A battery of cannon with a good parapet, was pointed towards Chaddsford^ and every thing appeared in fafety on that fide ; but to the right the ground was fo covered, that it was im- poffible to judge of the motions of the enemy, and to keep in a line with them, \i\ cafe rhey fliould attempt, as they did, to detach a corps by their left, to pafs the river higher up. The only precaution Vol, I. R that 242 TRAVELSIN that could be taken was to place five or fix brigades^ in fteps from each other, to watch that manoeuvre. General Sullivan had the command of them ; he received orders to keep in a line with the enemy, fhouldthey march by their left ; and on the fuppofition that they would unite their forces on the fide of Chaddsford, he was himfelf to pafs the river, and make a powerful diverfion on their flank. When a general has forefeen every thing, when he has made the beft pofTible difpofi- tions, and his adiivity, his judgment, and his courage in the adion correfpond with the wifdom of his meafures, has he not already triumphed in the eyes of every im- partial judge ? and if by any unforefeen accidents, the laurels he has merited drop from his hands, is it not the hiftorian's duty carefully to colled:, and replace them on his brow ? Let us hope that hiftory will acquit herfelf of this duty better than us, and let us fee how fuch wife difpofitions were dif- concerted by the miftakes of fome officers, and the inexperience of the troops. The * General Howe calls them lOjOOO men. Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. The iith of September, General Howe occupied the heights on the right of the creek ; he there formed part of his troops in line of battle, and prepared fome bat^ teries oppofite Chaddsford, whilft his light troops were attacking and driving before them a corps of riflemen, who had palTed over to the right bank more clofely to obferve his motions. General Wafhington feeing the cannonade continue, without any difpofition of the enemy to pafs the river, concluded they had another objed:. He was informed that a great part of their army had marched higher up the creekj and were threatening his right ; he felt the importance of keeping an attentive eye on all the movements of this corps; but the country was fo covered with thickets, that the patroles could difcover nothing. It muft be obferved that General Wafh- ington had a very fmall number of horfe, and thofe he had fent to the right, towards Dilworth^ to make difcoveries on that fide. He ordered an officer of whom he had a good opinion, to pafs the river, and inform himfelf accurately of the route Lord Corn- R 3 wallis 244 TRAVELS IN wallis was taking ; for it was he who com- manded this feparate corps. The officer re- turned, and alTured him that Cornwailis was marching by his right to join Knyphaufin^ on the fide of Chaddsford. According to this report, the attack feemed to be deter- mined on the left. Another officer was then fent, who reported that Cornwailis had changed his dire<^tion,and that he was rapidly advancing by the road leading to yefferies Ford, two miles higher than Birmingham Church, General Sullivan was immediately ordered to march thither with all the troops of the right. Unfortunately the roads were badly reconnoitred, and not at all open: with great difficulty General Sullivan got through the woods, and when he came out of them to gain a fmall eminence near Birmingham Church, he found the EngliJJy columns -mounting it on the oppojite Jide. It was no eafy matter to range into order of battle fuch troops as his ; he had neither the time to choofe his pofition, nor to form his line. The Engliih gained the emi- nence, drove the Americans back on the woods, to the edge of which they pur- 3 ^^^^<^> NORTH-AMERICA. 245 fued them, and they were totally dif- perfed.* During the fhort time this a(5lion lafted, Lord Stirling and General Conway had time to form their brigade on pretty advan- tageous ground : it was ^ a gentle rifmg, partly covered by the woods which bounded it ; their left was protected by the fame woods, and on the right of this rifing ground, but a little in the rear, was the "Virginia line, who were ranged in line of battle, on a high fpot of ground, and on the edge of an open wood. The left column of the enemy, who had not been engaged with Sullivan, formed rapidly, and marched againft thefe troops with as much order as vivacity and courage. The Americans made a very fmart fire, which did not check the Englifh, and it, was not till the R 3 latter * General Howe's account fays, " General Wa{h-= *' ington detached General Sullivan to his right with lOjOOO men, who took a Jirong pojition on the com- " manding ground above Birmingham Church and then relates the manoeuvres to dijlodge them. There is a material difference in thefc accounts. Translator.. 246 ^ T R A V E L S I N latter were within twenty yards of tliem, that they gave way, and threw themfelves into the woods. Lord Stirling, M. de la Fayette, and General Sullivan himfelf, after the -defeat of his divifion fought with this body of troops, whofe poft was the moft important, and made the longell re- fiftance. It was here that M. de la Fayette was wounded in his left leg, in rallying the troops who were beginning to ftagger. On the right, the Virginia line made fome refiftance ; but the Englifh had gained a height, from whence their artillery took them en echarpe : this fire mull have been very fevere, for moft of the trees bear the mark of bullets or cannon Ihot. The Vir- ginians in their turn gave way, and the right was thien entirely uncovered. Thouij-h this v»ras three miles from Chaddsford, General Knyphaufen heard the firing of the artillery, and mufquetry, and judging that the affair was ferious, the confidence he had in the Englifh and HelTian troops, made him conclude they were victorious. Towards five in the evening, he defcended from the heights in two NORTH-AMERICA. 247 two columns,* one at Johns Ford, which turned the battery of the Americans, and the other lower down at Chaddsford. The latter marched ftraight to the battery and took it. General Wayne, whofe brigade was in line of battle, the left on an emi- nence, and the right drawing towards the battery, then made that right fall back, and ftrengthened the heights, thus forming a fort of change of front. In a country where there are neither open columns, nor fucceflive pofitions to take, in cafe of acci- dent, it is difficult to make any difpofition for retreat. The different corps who had been beaten, all precipitated themfelves into the Chefter Road, where they formed but one column ; artillery, baggage, and troops being confufedly mixed together. At the beginning of the night General Wafh- ington alfo took this road, and the F.ng- R 4 iilh, * Several perfons, amongft others fome Englifli offi- cers who were prifoners, whom I have queftioned, aflured me that Knyphaufen's corps pafled the river only in one column at Chaddsford; and then feparated into two, one of which turned the battery, and the other attacked it in front. 248 TRAVELSIN lifh, content with their vidtory, did not difturb their retreat. Such is the idea I have formed of the battle of Brandywine, from what I have heard from General Waihington himfelf, from M. de la Fayette, Meffieurs de Gimat, and de Maiiduit, and from the Generals Wayne and Sullivan. I miift obferve, how- ever, that there is a difagreement in fome particulars ; feveral perfons, for example, pretend that Knyphaufen, after palling the river, continued his march in one column to the battery, and it is thus m.arked in the Englilh plan, which gives a falfe direction to that column ; befides that General Wafliington and General Wayne alTured me there were two, and that the left column turned the battery, which otherwife would not have been carried.* it is equally difficult to trace out on the plan, all the ground on which Cornwallis fought. The relations on both fides throw ■ hardly * Howe's account fays, there were two divifions, one under Grant, the other under Knyphaufen ; the fourth ^r.d lifth regiments turned the battery. Tr anslator. NORTH-AMERIC A. 249 hardly any light upon it : I was obliged therefore to draw my conclufions from the different narratives, and to follow none of them implicitly. Wliilft we were examining the field of 43attle with the greateft minutenefs, our fcrvants went on to Chefter to prepare dinner and apartments, but we foon fol- lowed them, and got there at four o'clock. The road did not appear long to me ; for chance having feparated M. de la Fayette, M. de NoailleSj and myfelf from the reft of the company, we entered into a very agreeable converfation, w^hich continued till we got to Cheilcr. I could not help obferving to them that after talking of nothing but v/ar for three hours, we liad. fuddenly changed the fubjecl, and got on that of Paris, and all forts of difcuflions relative to our private focieties. This tranfition was truly French, but it docs not prove that we are lefs fond of war, than other nations, only that we like our friends better. We were fcarcely arrived at Chefter, before we faw fome ftate barges or boats coming down the river, which the 250 TRAVELSIN the Prefident had fent to condud us back to Philadelphia, it being our plan to re- mount the Delaware next day, in order to examine the Fort of Redbank, and Fort Mifflin^ as well as the other pofts which had ferved for the defence of the river. An officer of the American navy who was come with thefe barges, to conduct! us, informed us that two velTels were arrived at Philadelphia in thirty-five days from L'Orient. The hopes of receiving letters, or news from Europe, almoft tempted us to relinquifli our projeds, and fet out im- mediately for Philadelphia ; but as the weather was fine, and we ftiould have the tide in our favour next day, which ren- dered our voyage more eafy, we determined to remain at Chefter, and M. de la Fayette fent off a man and a horfe to Philadelphia, to bring back news, and letters, if there were any. This courier returned before nine ; and only brought us a line from the Chevalier de la Luzerne, by "which we learnt that thefe fhips had no letters ; but that the captains alTured him, that Mon- 4 fieur N O R T H-A M E R I C A. 251 fieur de Caftries was made minifter of the marine. Whilft the courier was going and com- ing, we had got to the inn, where dinner and lodgings were prepared.* The exte- rior of this houfe is not very tempting, and feveral of the company were preparing to look out elfe where, but after a minute exa- mination, we found room enough for a dozen mailers, as many fervants, and nine- teen horfes. In addition to our company we had the Major who met us on the field of battle of Brandywine, and the officer who had brought us the barges. We had an excellent dinner, and very good wine. The tea, which followed pretty clofe on dinner, fucceeded as well ; fo that all my fellow travellers were in the beft humour, and fo gay as never to ceafe laugh- ing, fmging, and dancing during the whole evening. The people of the houfe, who faw nothing in this company but two General officers, one French, the other American, accom- : * Mrs. Withfs inn at Chefter is one of the bcf! on the Continent, and a favourite houfe for parties of pleafure from Philadelphia. Translator. 252 . T R A V E L S I N accompanied by their families^ and not a fociety of friends joyous to meet together in another hemifphere, could not conceive how it was poffible to be lb gay without being drunk, and looked upon us as people defcended from the moon. This evening, which was lengthened to eleven o'clock, terminated well, for we had excellent beds, fuch as one might expedt to find in a well- furnifhed country houfe. We rofe at fix in the morning, and aflembled in the dining- room, where a good breakfaft was prepared for us by candle light. At feven we em- barked, and croffing the Delaware, ob- liquely a little higher up, we landed at BillingfpGrt. This is a fort conftru€led in 1776, to fupport the left of the firft barrier of the chevaus de frife, deftined to block the pafTage of the river. This poft was of no ufe, for the fortifications having been commenced on too extenfive a plan for the number of troops which could be fpared, it was thought proper to abandon it. They have fince been reduced, which is the better, as they are now re- moved from fome points which commanded the N O R T H . A M E R I C A. 253 the fort. The prefent fituation of affairs not drawing the attention of Government to this quarter, the fortifications are rather negleded. All the battery there was, con- filled of one pretty good brafs mortar, and five eighteen pounders (Englifh twenty- fours), which Major Arnijirong^ who com- mands on the river, and came to receive me, fired on my arrival. When America has more money, and leifure, fhe will do well not to negled this poft, as well as all thofe for the defence of the river. For this war once terminated, £he will fee no more European - armies on the Continent, and all llie can have to fear from England, in cafe of a rupture with her, will be a few maritime expeditions, the fole objed: of which can be to deftroy fhipping, to ra- vage the country, and even to burn the towns wdthin reach of the fea. Unfor- tunately Billingfport belongs to the ftate of Jerfey, w^hich can reap no advantage from it ; and that of Pennfylvania, whofe fafety it w^ould conftitute,^ has no other means to employ towards fortifying it than its own requeft, and the recomraendations of 254 TRAVELSIN of Congrefs, which are not always attended to. However this may be, Philadelphia took other precautions for her defence, which depended only on the ftate of Penn- fylvania, and to this advantage is united that of an excellent pofition, which will foon be made impregnable ; I mean Fort Mifflin, whither we went on leaving Bil- lingfport, ftill afcending the river. The ifle on which it is built, and that called Mud IJlandi fupport the right of a fecond barrier of chevaux de frife, the left of which is defended by the Fort of Red Bank ; but it muft be obferved that the barrier only blocked the main channel of the river, the only paffage by which it was thought that veffels could pafs, f Near V * This fort, too, is liable to the fame difficulties with Billingfport, being on the Jerfey fide. Translator. f The perfon principally employed in fmking the chevaux de frife, and in fecuring the paffage of the river, was one JVhite, who is fuppofed to have left this channel open defignedly, as he afterwards turned out a decided traitor, went over to the enemy, and diftinguifliecf himfelf by every ail of hoftile virulence againft his country. Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 255 Near the right bank is Hog IJland^ about two miles long, the furface of which, like that of moft of the iflands in the Delaware, is fo low, that at high water, nothing is to be feen but the tops of the reeds with which it is covered. Between this ifland, and the main land, a fmall palTage remained open, but the Ameticans were perfuaded that there was not water enough for any ftiip with guns to pafs it. At the extre- mity of this channel, and in remounting it, we leave on the left a marfhy ground, fo furrounded by creeks, and inlets, as to form a real ifland, called Province IJlandJ^ This poll was in the poffeffion of the enemy; who eftablifhed batteries there, which incommoded thofe of Fort MiflQin, but not fufficiently to make the Americans abandon it. The Englifh army were at that time in a fmgular fituation : they had purchafed and maintained polTeflion of Philadelphia at * This is one of the richeft fpots of land in America, and being part of the proprietary eftate, was parcelled out, and iold in lots by the Aflembly of the State. 256 TRAVELSIN at the price of tv\ro bloody battles ; but they were ftill fhut up between the Schuyl- kill and the Delaware, having in their front Wailiington's army, which kept them in awe, and behind them feveral forts occupied by the Americans, which fhut the pafTage of the Delaware. A large city, however, and a whole army, mull have fub- fiflence ; it became necelTary therefore to open the communication by fea, and to fecure the navigation of the river. When one recolled:s the innumerable obftacles the Englilli had to furmount in the prefent war, it is difficult to affign the caufe of their fucceifes ; but if we turn our eyes on all the unforefeen events w^hich have de- ceived the expectation of the Americans, and fruftrated their beft concerted meafures, one cannot but be perfuaded that they were devoted to deftrudion, and that the alliance wnth France alone proved the means of their prefervation. In this voyage, in par- ticular, I faw frefh proofs of it every in- ftant. A¥hen the place was pointed out to me where the Augujla^ of fixty-four , guns, took fire, and blew up in attempting to N O R T H ^ A M E R I C A. 25^ to force the chevaux de frife, and fur- ther on, the remains of the Merlin^ of two and twenty, which ran afhore in the fame action, and was burnt by the Engliih them- felveSi whilft the Heflians were vainly facrificing five or fix hundred men before the Fort of Redbank, I figured to myfelf the Englifh army ftarved in Philadelphia, retreating with difgrace and difficulty through the Jerfeys, and my imagination already enjoyed the triumph of America. But of a fudden the fcene changed, and I faw nothing but the fatality which col- lected towards the channel of Hog liland the w^aters long confined by the chevaux de frife, and recollected with pain, that on the 15th of November, three wrecks after the fruitlefs attempts I have men- tioned, the Englifli fucceeded in paffing over the bar of this channel, the Vigilant^ and another fmall fliip of war ; that they thus got up the river, and turned Fort Mifflin, the batteries of which they took from behind, and left the Americans no other refource but to abandon the defence of the chevaux de frife in all parts, and Vol. I S make 258 T R A V E L S I N nvake a precipitate retreat by the left fliore Ox the Delaware. Taught by fad experience, the Americans have provided in future againft the mif- fortunes which coft them fo dear. I faw them with pleafare extending the fortifica- tions of Miffling'sllland, fo as to enclofe the fort on every fide, which will be furrounded alfo by the Delaware in place of a ditch ; and as the garrifon will have a fafe afylum in fouterrains, bomb-proof, this fort may henceforth be deemed impregnable. The plan of thefe works was given by M. du Portail ; Major Armftrong fliewed me them upon the fpot, and I found them correfpond perfedly with the juft reputation of their author. We now had to vifit Redbank ; for which purpofe we had again to crofs the Delaware, which in this place is a mile wide. The gentleman, who was to do the honour there, was impatient to arrive. We had amufed ourfelves by telling him that the morning being far fpent, and the tide about to turn, we iliould be obliged to omit Redbank, and return directly to 4 Philadelphia. , NORTH-AMERICA. 259 Philadelphia. This condudor, whom we diverted ourfelves in tormenting, was M. du Pleffis Mauduit, who in the double capacity of engineer, . and officer of artil- lery, had the charge of arranging and de- fending this poll, under the orders of Colonel Green. On landing from our boat, he propofed conducing us to a Qua- ker's, whofe houfe is half a mufquet fhot from the fort, or rather the ruins of the fort ; for it is now deftroyed, and there are fcarcely any reliefs of it remain- ing. " This man, faid M. de Mauduit, is a little of a tory; I was obliged to knock down his barn, and fell his fruit trees ; but he will be glad to fee M. de la Fayette, and will receive us well." We took him at his word, but never was ex- pectation more completely deceived. We found our Quaker feated in the chimney corner, bufied in cleaning herbs : he re- coUeded M. de Mauduit, who named M. de la Fayette, and me, to him ; but he did not deign to lift his eyes, nor to anfwer any of our introducer's difcourfe, which at firft was complimentary, and at length S 3 jocofe. 28o r R A V E L S I N jocbfe. Except Duios filence, I know nothing more fevere ; but we had no dif- ficulty in actrommodating ourfelves to this bad reception, and made our way to the fort. We had not gone a hundred yards before we came to a fmall elevation, on which a ftone was vertically placed, with this fhort epitaph : Here lies buried Colonel Donop. M. de Mauduit could not refrain from exprefling his regret for this brave man, who died in his arms two days after the action ; he alTured us that we could not make a ftep without treading on the remains of fome Heffian ; for near three hundred were buried in the front of the ditch. The Fort of Redbank was defigned, as I have faid above, to fupport the left of the chevaux de frife. The bank of the Delaware at this place is fteep ; but even this fteepnefs allowed the enemy to ap- proach the fort, under - cover and without being expofed to the fire of the batteries. To remedy this inconvenience, feveral galiies' armed with cannon, and deftined to defend the chevaux de frife, v.'ere polled the NORTH-AMERICA. 261 the whole length of the efcarpement, and ^ took it in reverfe. The Americans, little pra6:ifed in the art of fortifications, and al-^ ways difpofed to take works beyond their ftrength, had made thofe of Redbank too extenfive. When M. de Mauduit obtained permiffion to be fent thither with Colonel Green, he immediately fet about reducing the fortifications, by interfering them from eaft to weft, which transformed them into a fort of large redoulpt nearly of a pen- tagonal form. A good earthen rampart raifed to the height of the cordon, a folfe, and an abattis in front of the folfe, con- Itituted the whole ftrength of this poft, in which were placed three hundred men^'' and fourteen pieces of cannon. The 2 2d of Od:ober, in the morning, they received intelligence that a detachment of two thou- fand five hundred Heffians were advancing; who were foon after perceived on the edge of a wood to the north of Redbank^ nearly within cannot fliot. Preparations were S 3 making * General Howe calls them about 800 men. Translator. 262 T R A V E L S I N making for the defence, when a Heffian officer advanced, preceded by a drum ; he was fufFered to approach, but his harangue was fo infolent that it only ferved to irritate the garrifon, and infpire them with more refokition. " The King of England^ faid ** he, orders his rebellious fubjedis to lay down " their armSy and they are warned^ that if " they fand the battle^ no quarters whatever " will be givenJ*^ The anfwer was, that they accepted the challenge, and that there fhould be no quarter on either fide. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the HefTians made a very brilk fire from a battery of cannon, and foon after they opened, and marched to the firft entrenchment, from which, finding it abandoned, but not deftroycd, they imagined they had driven the Americans. They then fhouted viBoria, waved their hats in the air, and advanced towards the redoubt. The fame drummer, who a few hours before had com.e to fummon the garrifon, and had appeared as infolent as his officer, was at their head beating 'the march ; both he and that officer were knocked on the head by the firft fire. The Heffians, how- ever. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 263 ever, ftill kept advancing within the firft entrenchment, leaving the river on their right : they had already reached the abattis, and were endeavouring to tear up, or cut away the branches, when they were over- w^helmed with a fhower of mufquet (hot, which took them in front, and in flank; for as chance would have it, a part of the courtine of the old entrenchment, which had not been deftroyed, formed a projection at this very part of the interfeftion. M. de Mauduit had contrived to form it into a fort of caponier (or trench with loop-holes) into which he threw fome men, who flank- ed the enemy's left, and fired on them at clofe fhot. Officers were feen every moment, rallying their men, marching back to the abattis, and falling amidfl: the branches they were endeavouring to cut. Colonel Donop was particularly diftinguilhed by the marks of the order he wore, by his handfome figure, and by his courage ; he was alfo feen to fall like the refl:. The HeflSans, repulfed by the fire of the redoubt, attempted to fecure themfelves from it by attacking on the fide of the efcarpement, but the fire S 4 from 264 T R A V E L S I N from the gallies fent them back with a great lofs of men. At length they reUn-r- quifhed the attack, and regained the wood in diforder. Whiift this was pafling on the north fide, another column made an attack on the fouth, and, more fortunate than the other, pafTed the abattis, traverfed the foffe, and mounted the berm ; but they were flopped by the fraifes, and M. de Mauduit running to this poll as foon as he faw the firft affailants give way, the others ' were obliged to follow their example. They ftill did not dare however to ftir out of the fort, fearing a furprife ; but M. de Mauduit wifhing to replace fome pali- fades which had been torn up ; he fallied out with a few men, and was furprifed to fmd about twenty Heffians (landing pn the berm, and ftuck up againft the fhelving of the parapet. Thefe foldiers, who had been bold enough to advance thus far, fen- fible that there was more rifque in return- ing, and not thinking proper to expofe themfelves, were taken and brought into the fort. M. de Mauduit, after fixing I the I N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 265 the palifades, employed himfelf in repairing the abattis ; he again Tallied out with a detachment, and it was then he beheld ' the deplorable fpe6lacle of the dead, and dying, heaped one upon another. A voice arofe from amidft thefe carcafes, and faid in Englifh ; whoever you are, draiv me hence. It was the voice of Colonel Donop : M. de Mauduit made the foldiers lift him up, and carry him into the fort, where he was foon known. He had his hip broken ; but whether they did not confider his wound as mortal, or that they were heated by the battle, and ftill irritated at the menaces thrown out againfl them a few hours before, the Americans could not help faying, aloud : JVell ! is it determined to give no quarter ? I am in your hands^ replied the Colonel, you may revenge yourfelves, M. de Mauduit had no difficulty in impofing filence, and employed himfelf only iu taking care of the wounded officer. The latter, perceiving he fpoke bad Englifh, faid to him : you appear to me a foreigner. Sir, who are you ? — A French officer ^ replied the other. — Je fuis content^ faid Donop, making ufe 266 TRAVELS IN ufe of our language, je meurs entre ks mains de rhomeur meme. I am content ; I die in the hands of honour itfelf. The next day- he was removed to the Quaker's houfe, where he Uved three days, during which he converfed frequently with M.de Mauduit. He told him that he had been long in friend- fhip with M. de Saint-Germain, that he wifhed in dying to recommend to him his vanquifher, and benefador. He alked for paper, and wrote a letter, which he deli- vered to M. de Mauduit, requiring of him, as the laft favour, to acquaint him when he was about to die : the latter was foon under the neceffity of acquitting himfelf of this fad duty : it is jinifiing a noble career early ^ faid the Colonel ; hut J die the victim of my ambition^ and of the avarice of my fovereign. Fifteen wounded officers were found, like him, upon the field of battle ; M. de Mauduit had the fatisfaction to con- dud them himfelf to Philadelphia, where he was very well received by General Howe. By fingular accident, it happened that the Englifh that very day received indirect in- telligence of the capitulation of Burgoyne, of NORTH-AMERICA. 267 of which he knew more than they. They pretended to give jno credit to it : jyou^ who are a Frenchman^ faid xhej^fpeak freely^ do you think it pojjibk f I know^ replied he, that the faSl is Jo ; explain it as you think proper. Perhaps I have dwelt too long on this event ; but I fliall not have to apologize to thofe who will partake of the plealing fatisfadiion I experience, in fixing my eyes upon the triumphs of America, and in difcovering my countrymen amongft thofe who have reaped her laurels. At prefent I haften my return to Philadelphia, where, on my arrival, I had only time to drefs myfelf to attend the Chevalier de la Luzerne, and the companions of my journey, to din- ner at Mr. Huntington's, the Prefident of Congrefs. Mrs. Huntington, a good look- ing, 4ufty woman, but not young, did the honours of the table, that is to fay, helped every body without faying a word. I did not remain long after dinner, having a little fnug rendezvous, which I was not inclined to mifs. The reader will think it time for me to throw fome variety into this I 268 TRAVELSIN this journal ; but I am obliged to confefs that this rendezvous was with Mr. Samuel Adams. We had promifed ourfelves at our laft interview to fet an evening apart for a tranquil tete-a-tete, and this was the day appointed. Our converfation com- menced with a topic of which he might have fpared himfelf the difcuffion ; the juftice of the caufe he was engaged in. I am clearly of opinion that the parliament of England had no right to tax America without her confent, but I am more clearly comanced that when a whole people fay we will be freey it is difficult to demonftrate they are in the wrong. Be that as it may, Mr. Adams very fatisfa£torily proved to me, that New Eng- land, comprehending the ftates of MaiTa- chufTets, New Hampfhire, Conned;icut, and Rhode Ifland, were not peopled with any view to commerce and aggrandifemenf, but wholly by individuals who fled from perfe- cution, and fought an afylum at the extre- mity of the world, where they might be free to live, and follow their opinions ; that it was of their own accord, that thofe new colonifts put themfelves under the pro- tedion N O R'T H- A ME RICA. 269 tedion of England ; that the mutual rela- tionfliip, I'pringing from this connection, was expreffed in their charters, and that the right of impofmg, or exacSting a revenue of any kind was not comprized in them. From this fubjedwe pafled to a more in- terefting one ; the form of government which Ihould be given to each ftate ; for it is only on account of the future, that it is neceffary to take a retrofped: of the paft. The revolu- tion has taken place, and the republic is beginning ; it is an infant newly born, the queftion is how to nourifh, and rear it to maturity. I exprelTed to Mr. Adams fome anxiety for the foundations on which the new conftitutions are formed, and particu- larly that of MaiTachuflets. Every citizen, faid I, every man who pays taxes, has a right to vote in the election of reprefenta- tives,* v/ho form the legiflative body, and who may be called the fovereign power, AH this is very well for the prefent moment, becaufe every citizen is pretty equally at his eafe, or rnay be fo in a fhort time ; but the fuccefs of commerce, and even of agricul- ture, will introduce riches amongft you, and riches 270 TRAVELS IN jriche& will produce inequality of fortunes, and of property. Now, wherever this in- equality exifts, the real force will invariably be on the fide of property ; fo that if the in- fluence in government be not proportioned to that property, there will always be a con- trariety, a combat between the form of go- vernment, and its natural tendency, the right will be on one fide, and the power on the other ; the balance then only can exift be- tween the two equally dangerous extremes, of ariftocracy and anarchy. Befides, the ideal worth of men muft ever be comparative : an individual without property is a< difcon- tented citizen, when the ftate is poor ; place a rich man near him, he dwindles into a clown. What will refult then, one day, from veiling the right of ele ftiort, the office of fub-inquifitor to Mr. Jofeph Galloway. Nor was this the only method by which they manifefted the peaceable principles of their feci. General Howe having received information of a party of militia lying in the woods, in the county of Bucks, at fixteen miles diftance, under General Lacy, difpatched Lieutenant Colonel Abercrombie with a confiderable detachment by the Frankfort road to attack them ; and one or both of thefe harm- lefs Quakers, who would not hear arms for the wealth of Britain, confcientioufly undertook to conduii this man of blood to a fuccefsful furprife and maffacre of their own countrymen. Thefe, and a variety of other facSts being proved againft them, after the eva- cuation of the town, v/here they had the prefumptlon to remain, and there being an evident neceffity for making an example of thefe moft dangerous of all enemies, lenity would have been as ill timed as imjuft to the fufFering citizens. Such, I am forry to fay it, was the undoubted conduft of too many of this once refpe6lable body, during the war, a con- du;s of a difficult, and uncom- monly expenfive war, and v/ere ncv/ quietly laid 330 TRAVELSTN Quakers and Tories, on the other hand, with which this province abounds, two claffes afide, v/ith fcarce a murmur on the part of. the public ; the variety of the depreciation, at different periods, and in different parts of the Continent, whiift it gave rife to great temporary abufes, had been fo divided, and balanced, by alternate profit and lofs amongft all claffes of citizens, that on cafling up the account, fome very unfortunate cafes excepted, it feems to have operated only as a general tax on the public ; and tlie univerfal joy on its annihilation, with the fatisfac- tory reflediion on the neceffity under which it was iffued in the critical moment of danger, feemed to conciliate all minds, to a total oblivion of its partial mifchief. Here and there great fortunes are to be feen, reared upon its now vifionary bafis, and families reduced from opulence to mediocrity by means of this deftruclive medium ; but thefe inftances are by no means fo frequent as they have been reprefented in Europe, and were often the refult of ill-judged, but avaricious fpecu- lations; but I repeat it, that the continued ufe, the general circulation, the aftoniftiing depreciation, and total deftru£^:ion of fuch an immenfe imaginary pro- perty, will always exhibit a phcenomenon infinitely more fliriking, than that a few, or even a great number of individuals Tnould have fuffered, as muff always be the cafe in every civil com.motion. The fa6l is unparal- leled, and will probably ftand fmgle in tlie annals •£ the v/orld. Translator. N O R T H . A M E R I C A. ^31 claffes of men equally dangerous, one from their timidity, and the other from their bad intentions, are inceffantly labouring to fecure their fortune ; tliey lavi£h the paper for a little gold or filver, to enable them to remove wherever they may think them- felves in fafety ; from thefe reafons, the paper money is more and more decried, not only becaufe it is too common, but becaufe gold and filver are extremely fcarce, and difficult to be obtained. In the midfc of thefe convulfions the government is without force, nor can it be etherwife. A popular government can never have any, whilft the people are un- fteady, and fluctuating in their opinions ; for then the leaders rather feek to pleafe, than ferve them ; obliged to gain their con- fidence before they merit it, they are more inclined to flatter, than inftrudt them, and fearing to lofe the favour they have ac- quired, they finifh by becoming the flaves of the multitude whom they pretended to govern. Mr. Franklin has been blamed for giving too democratical a government to his country, but they who cenfure him 3 do 332 T R A V E L S I N do not relied: that the firft ftep was to make her renounce monarchical government, and that it was neceiTary to employ a fort of fedu6tion in order to condud; a timid and avaricious people to independence, who were befides fo divided in their opinions, that the republican party was fcarcely ftron- ger than the other. Under thefe circum- fiances he aded like Sg1o?i ; he has not given the beft poffible laws to Pennfylvania, but the beft of vv^hich the country was fuf- ceptible. Time will produce perfedion : in pleading to recover an eftate, the firffc objed is to obtain polTeflion, the reft follows . of courfe.* Philadelphia * The author mi2;hthave added, in corroboration of his argument, that the conftitution of Pennfylvania is, for this reafon, only a conftitution of experiment, from feven years to feven years, in which it is exprefsly re- ferved to a Council of Cenfors^ to rcvife the paft opera- tions of government, tojudge of the effects produced from it as then conftituted, and to call 2. general convention of the people^ for the purpofe of amending the deficient parts, and of con'e6ling its exuberancies and vices. It is a glorious experiment, worthy the philanthropic heart, and the enlightened underftanding of Doctor Frank-* LIN. — ^iodfelixj faii/iiimque ft ! Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 333 Philadelphia contains about forty thou- fand inhabitants. The ftreets are large and regular, and interfect each other at right angles. There are footways here, as in London, for the paffengers. This city has every ufefiil eftablilhment, fjch as hofpitals, workhoufes, houfes of corredian, &c. but it is fo deficient in an effential arti- cle of comfort and enjoyment, that there is not a fmgle public walk.* The reafon of this is, that hitherto every thing con- cerning the police, and particular govern- ment of the city has been in the hands of the * The city of Philadelphia is not only at prefent deftitute of public walks, but, in fummer, the heat renders walking in the ftreets intolerably inconvenient ; the houfes and footpaths being generally of brick, are not even cooled until fome hours after funfet. This extreme heat, and the abundance of excellent water, with which Philadelphia is fupplied, occafion many accidents among the lower clafs of people, for it is no uncommon thing to fee a labourer, after quenching his thirft at a pump, drop down dead upon the fpot, nor can the numerous examples of this kind every fummer pre- vent them from frequently occurring ; but it is to be obferved, that if the heat be intenfe, the water is uncommonly cold. Translator. 334 T R A V K L S 1 N the Quakers, and thefe fed:aries confider every fpecies of private or public amufe- ment as a tranfgreffion of their la;w, and as a pomp of Satan, Fortunately, the little zeal (to fay no more) they have difplayed " on the prefent crifis, has made -them lofe their credit. This revohition comeB very opportunely, at a time when the public, has derived every benefit from them they could exped; j the walls of the houfe are finiflied, it is time to call in the carpenters and upholfterers. It is time alfo for me to return to Prince Town, to continue my journey to Albany, by New Windfor, General Wafhington's head quarters, I intended fetting oiit early on the I yth ; it was necelTary, in fa£t, to be alert, that I might reach Morris Towm, but my baggage horfe not being able to pafs the Delaware, at the fame time with • my- felf, I left one of my people to wait for, and conduct: liim» It fo happened that neither the fervant I was waiting for, nOr the other arrived. One of the fervants was an Irilhman, the other a German,- both newly entered into my fervice. As foon NORTH-AMERICA. 335 foon as I faw the morning of the 17th approach, without their making their ap- pearance, the neighbourhood of New York began to give me fome uneafmefs. I was apprehenfive they might have taken that road with my Httle baggage, and I was already making difpofitions to purfue them, when, to my great fatisfa£tion, I faw the head of my baggage cohnnn appear, that is, one of the three horfes which were left behind, the remainder following foon after.* ■ To •* After Sir Guy Carleton's arrival at Now- York with the vote of Parliament to difcontinue offenfive war, the Tranflator, who was travelling to the north-^ ward, and meant to call on General Wafnington then ih camp at Verplanks Point, on the North Ri- ver, thought he might with fafety take the lower road by Brunfwick and Elizabeth-Town ; but he had not been an hour in bed, before he and his companion, a furgeon in the American army, v/ere alarmed by a Scattering fire of mufqustry. Before they had time to drefs themfelves, and take their piftols, the landlord entered their apartment, and in- formed themj that a party from Staten Illand was marching towards the town, and advifed them to make their efcapej with much difficulty they got their horfes out of the ftable, hid their baggage in. tke church-yard, and hearing the Englifh officer 336 TRAVELSIN To pafs the time, however, I entered into converfation with my landlord, Colonel Howard, order his men to form zt the end of the town, tliey took different roads, leaving their fervants, who were, one a Scotch Drifoncr to the Americans, the other an Engliili deferter, and whofe condufl appeared very fufpicious, to take care of themfelves, and the horfes they rode on. The Tramlator, who follow- ed the great road to Newark, v/as mounted on a white horfc, which made him a good obje£l, and had feveral fliot fired at him, but the ground rifing, and his horfe going at full gallop, the balls luckily fell fhort. After endeavouring to roufe the country, but without being able to colle£l a fufficient force, he took fhelter at an honeft carpenter's, about a mile from the town, where he remained till a little before daybreak, when concluding from the general filence, that the party had fetired, he returned, and went to fearch for his baggage in the church-yard, for which however he fought in vain, and his anxiety was not a little increafed on not finding his other horfe in the ftable, nor feeing either of the fervants. But from which he was foon relieved by his friend, who had watched the firft moment of the enemy's departure, ordered the baggage up into his room, and affured him that the fervants had condu6led themfelves with the greatvift fidelity. His alarm was, it feems, much greater than that of the Tranflator, as General Wailiington had declared publicly in orders, that any officer of his army, taken near the lines, unlefs NORTH-AMERICA. 337 Howard, who is a very good man, and with his fon the Captain, a great talker, and a genuine Captain. He recounted to me with many geftures, oaths, and imprecations all his feats of prowefs in the war ; efpecially at the affair of Prince-Town, where he ferved as a lieutenant of militia in his father's regiment ; and indeed the action he boafted of would have merited an eulogium, had he related it with fimplicity. We may recoiled: that after beating the Englilh, Ge- neral Wafhington continued his route to- on duty, fliould be the laft exchanged. The Tranf- lator imagines the party to have been Refugees from Staten Ifland, who, from their feparate inftitutiou under the direftion of a Board, not unfrequently fet at defiance the orders of the Commander in Chief; a remarkable inftance of which occurred in the cafe of Captain Huddy, whom they obtained, under falfe pre- tences, from the guard-houfe, where he was a pri- foner, and murdered without either fcruple or appre- henfion. All Europe knows the confequence, in the imminent danger of Captain AJgill ; and all Ame- rica faw with fhame and indignation the Englifli Ge- neral unable to enforce difcipline in his own army, and fhrinking under the apprehenfions of irritating Governor Franklin, and his envenomed board of Loyalifts. Translator. Vol. I % wards 338 TRAVELSIN wards Middlebrook. An American officer^ who had his leg broke by a mufquet ball, was dragged into a houfe, where the En- glifh fooner or later muft have found him: young Howard, and fome foldiers as well difpofed as himfelf, fet out at night from Middlebrook, took a circuitous road, ar- rived at the houfe, found the officer, took him on their fhoulders and carried him to their quarters. During the remainder of the winter, the Jerfey militia were conftant- iy under arms to reftrain the Englifli, who occupied Elizabeth-Town and Brunfwick. It was a fort of continual chace, to which Lieutenant Howard one day led his little brother, a boy of fifteen, and who was lucky enough to begin his career by killing a Heffian grenadier ; as thefe ftories were very tedious, I ftiall drop them here, for fear of not improving on the narration : I muft mention however the manner in which my Captain entered into the fervice, as it will ferve to difcover the fpirit which reign- ed in Am.erica at the beginning of the pre- fent revolution. Ele was apprentice to a hatter at the time of the affair of Lexing- 3 N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 339 ton, and the blockade of Bofton ; three of his companions and himfelf fet out one morning from Philadelphia with four dol- lars aracngft them in their pockets : they travelled four hundred miles on foot to join the army, in which they ferved as volun- teers the remainder of the campaign ; from thence they fet out with Arnold on his expe- dition to Canada, and did not return home till the theatre of war was removed into their own country. Eleven o'clock had ftruck before I could rally the horfes in my train, and begin my march ; I abandoned therefore the plan of fleeping at Morris-Town, and determined to ftop at Bqfkenridge^ eight miles nearer Prince-Town. I firft left the Millftone on the right, then crofled it twice before I reached the Rariton, which I palTed at the fame place as in my journey to Philadel- phia. Three miles from thence I was told to take a road to the right, which leads into the woods, and over the fummit of the Hills ; this route was opened for the army, during the w^inter quarters of 1778-9; it appears to have been made with care, and is Z 2 ftill s 340 TRAVELSIN ftill paffable ; but after fome time, daylight failing me, I loft myfelf, and went a mile or two out of my way. Luckily for me, I found a hut inhabited by fome new fettlers there I got a guide who condud:ed me to Bafkenridge, where I arrived at feven o'clock, and alighted at BuUiori^s T'avern^ got toler- able lodgings, with the beft people in the world. Our fupper was very good : bread only was wanting ; but, inquiring of us what fort we liked, in an hour's time we had fuch as we defired. This will appear iefs extraordinary, on being told that in America, little cakes, which are eafily kneaded and baked in half an hour, are often fubftituted for bread. Poffibly one would foon tire of them, but they fuited my tafte extremely ivell. Mr. Bullion had two white fervants, one a man about fifty, the other a woman, younger, with a toler- able good face : I had the curiofity to in- quire w^hat wages he gave them, and was told that the man earned half a crown a day, and the woman iix fhillings a week, or ten pence a day. If we pay attention to the cir- cumftance, that thefe fervants are lodged and fed. NORTH-AMERie A. 341 fed, and have no expences, we may fee that it is eafy for them very fhortly to acquire a piece of ground, and to form fuch a iettie- ment as I have dtfciibed. The 1 8th I fet out at e%ht in the morn- ing, and made only one ftage to Pompton ; which is fix-and-thirty miles, without bait- ing my horfes or flopping, except f: a quarter of an hour to pay a vifit to General Wayne, whofe quarters were on the main road. He was polled to cover the Jerfeys, and had under his orders the fame Pennfyl- vania line which revolted a fortnight after. I again faw with pleafure the environs of Morris-Tov\^n, which are agreeable and well cultivated ; but after paffing the Ro.ckaway^ and approaching Pompton, I was aftonifhed at the degree of perfection to which agri- culture is carried, and particularly admired the farms of Meffieurs Mandeviile. They are the fons of a Dutchman, who firft clear- ed the ground from which they now reap fuch rich harvefts. Their domains join each other. In each of them the manor is very fnnple and fmall, the barns alone are lofty and fpacious. Always faithful to their Z 3 national 342 . T R A V E L S I N national oeconomy, they cultiyate, reap, and fell, without augmenting either their houfes or their enjoyments ; content with living in a corner of their farm, and with being only the fpedators of their own wealth. By the fide of thefe old farms we fee new fet- tlements forming, and have more and more reafon to be convinced, tluit if the war has retarded the progrefs of agriculture and po- pulation, it has not entirely fufpended them. The night, which furprifed me on my jour- ney, deprived me of the beautiful profpe6t this country would have continued to af- ford. Being very dark, it was not with- out difficulty I paiTed two or three rivulets, on very fmall bridges, and got to Court- he atFs tavern. This Inn is lately eftablifh- ed, and kept by young people without for- tune, confequentiy the beft parts of the fur- niture are the ovv^^ner and his family. Mr, Courtheath is a young man of four-and-twen- ty, who was formerly a travelling dealer in ilufFs, toys, &c. The depreciation of pa- per money, or perhaps his own imprudence, fo far ruined him as to oblige him to leave 1^3 hpufe at Mprris-Tov/n, and fet up a tavern ■ i NORTH-AMERICA. 343 " tavern in this out of the way place, where nothing but the neighbourhood of the army can procure him a few cuftomers. He has two handfome fifters, well dreiTed girls, who wait on travellers wiih grace and coquetry. Their brother fays, he will marry them to fome fat, ciumfy Dutchmen, and that as for himfelf, as foon as he has got a little money, he fhall refume his commerce, and travel about as formerly. On entering the parlour, where thefe young women fit, when there are no ftrangers, I foimd on a great table, Miltouy Addlfon^ "Richardfon^ and fe- veral other works of that kind. The cel- lar was not fo well flored as the library, for there was neither wine, cyder, nor rum ; nothing in fhort but fome vile cyder-brandy, with vv^hich I muft make grog. The bill they prefented me the next morning amount- ed neverthelefs to fixteen dollars.* I ob- Z 4 ferved * Travelling in America was wonderfully expen- five during the war, even after the abolition of paper money, and when all payments were made in fpecie^ you could not remain at an inn, even the nioft in- different, one night, with a fervant and two horfes, living in the moft moderate way, under from fve to / 344 TRAVELSIN ferved to Mr. Courtheath, that if he made one pay for being waited on by his pretty fillers, it was by much too little ; but if only for lodgings and fupper, it was a great deal. He feemed a little afliamed at having charged eight dollars. At Grant's Tavern at Baltimore, where the tranflator ftaid feme days, with only one horfe and no fervant, though he either dined or fupped out every day, he never efcaped for lefs than fve dollars. —I cannot here avoid relating the plea- fant manner in which one Belly a fhrewd Scotch bookfeller and auctioneer of Philadelphia, paid his bills in travelling through the country. I had given him an Irifh copy of Sheridan's School for Scandal, with the prologue and epilogue taken from Dodfley's Annual Regifter, which he reprinted, and fold for a dollar. In travelling through Virginia fome months after, I was furprifed to fee in many of the inns, even in the moft remote parts of the country, this celebrated comedy j and, upon inquiry, found that Mr. Bell, who travelled with his family in a covered cart, had pafled in his way to the Springs^ (the Har- rogate, or Matlock of America) and fuccefsfully cir- culated in payment this nev/ fpecies of paper cur- rency ; for, as he obferved, '■'Who would not prefer Sheridan's ^terlingy to the counterfeit creations of Congrefs, or ^ve?7 of Robert Morris ?'* Nor v/as any depreciation attempted, where the intrinfic value was fo unequivocally ftamped v/ith the chara£i:er of wit and freedom. Translator, NORTH-AMERICA. 345 charged too high, and offered to make a pretty conliderable abatement, which I re- fafed, content with having fhewn him, that though a foreigner, I was no ftranger to the price of articles, and fatisfied with the ex- cufe he made me, that being himfelf a ftranger and without property in the coun- try, he was obhged to purchafe every thing. I learnt, on this occafion, that he hired the inn he kept, as well as a large barn which ferved for a ftable, and a garden of two or three acres, for eighty-four bufhels of corn a year : in fad", the depreciation of paper has compelled people to this manner of making bargains, which is perhaps the beft of all, but is unqueftionably an effediual remedy to the prefent diforder. At eight o'clock I took leave of my land- lord and young landladies, to penetrate through the woods by a road with which no- body was very well acquainted. The country I was to pafs through, called the Clove j is extremely wild, and was fcarcely known be- fore the war : it is a fort of valley, or gorge, fituated to the weftward of the high moun- tains between New Windfor and King's Ferry, 346 TRAVELSIN Feny, and at the foot of which are Weft- Point and Stoney-Point, and the principal forts which defend the river. In times when the river is not navigable, on account of ice, or contrary winds, it is necefTary to have communication by land between the States of New-York and the Jerfeys, be- tween New-Windfor and Morris-Town. This communication traverfmg the Clove, w^icn General Green w^as Quarter Mafter General, he opened a road for the convoys of provifions and the artillery. This was the road I took, leaving on my right the Romopog road, and afcending by that which comes from Rlngwood. Ringwood is only' a hamlet of feven or eight houfes, formed by Mrs. Jlrfnlne\ manor and the forges, which are profitable to her. I had been told that I Ihould find there all forts of conveniencies, whether in point of lodgings, if 1 chofe to Hop, or in procuring every information I miglit Hand in need of. As it w^as early in the day, and I had travelled but twelve miles, I alighted at Mrs. Erf- kine's, only to defire her to point out to me fome inn where I niight fleep, or to recom- mend N O R T H - A Pvl E R I C A, ca? mend me to fome hofpitablc quarters. I entered a very handfome hoiife where every body v\^as in mourning, Mr. Erlkine being dead two months before. Mrs. ErfKine, his widow, is about forty, and did not ap-< pear the lefs frefh or tranquil for her mif- fortune. She had with her one of her ne- phews, and Mr. John Fell^ a member of Congrefs. They gave me all the necef- fary information, and after drinking a glafs of Madeira, according to the cuftom of the country, which will not allow you to leave a houfe without tailing fomething, I got on liorfeback, and penetrated afrefli into the 'woods, mounting and defcending very high mountains, until I found myfelf on the bor- ders of a lake, fo folitary and concealed, that it is only vifible through the trees with which it is furrounded. The declivities w^hich form its banks are fo fleep, that if a deer made a falfe ftep on the top of the moun- tain, he would infallibly roll into the lake, without being able to rife up. This lake, which is not marked upon the charts, and is called Duck Side)\ is about three miles }oDg and two wide. I was now in the wildeft 348 T R A V E L S I N wildeft and moft defert country I had yet paffed through ; my imagination was ah'eady enjoying this fohtude, and my eyes were fearching through the woods for fbme ex- traordinary animals, fuch as elks or caribous (fuppofed to be the fame as the rein deer) when I perceived, in an open fpot, a quad- ruped wiiich feemed very large. I ftarted witli joy, and was advancing flowly, but on a nearer obfervation of the monfter of the defert, to my great regret I difcovered it to be a horfe peaceably browfing the grafs; and the opening, no other than a field be- longing to a new fettiement. On advanc- ing a few fteps farther, I met two children*' of eight or ten years old, returning quietly from fchool, carrying under their arms a little baflvct, and a large book. Thus was I obliged to lay afide all the ideas of a poet or a fportfinan, to admire this new country, where one cannot travel four miles without finding a dwelling, nor find one which is not within reach of every pofTible fuccour, as well in the natural as in the moral order. Thefe reflexions, and the fine weather we had all the afternoon, made the end of my day*s NORTH-AMERICA. 349 day's journey very agreeable. At the be- ginning of the night, I arrived at the houfe of Mr. Smithy who formerly kept an inn, though at prefent he lodges only his friends j but as I had not the honour to be of that number, I was obliged to go a little further, to Herns Tavern, a very indifferent houfe, where I fupped and flept. I left it the 1 9th, as early as pofTible; having ftiil twelve miles to New-Windfor, and intending to flay only one night, I was anxious to pafs at leaft the greatefi: part of the day with Gene- ral Wafliington. I met him two miles from New-Windfor ; he was in his carriage with Mrs. Wafhington, going on a vifit to Mrs. Knox, whofe quarters were a mile farther on, near the artillery barracks. They wiihed to return with me, but I begged them to continue their w^ay. The Gene- ral gave me one of his Aides de Camp, (Colonel Humphreys) * to condud me to his * He is at prefent Secretary of the Embaffy to the court of France. This brave and excellent foldier is at the fame time a poet of great talents : he is the author of a poem addrefled to the American army, 9. work recently known in England, where, in fpight of 350 T R A V E L S I N his houfe, affured me that he £hould not be long in joining me, and he returned accord- ingly in lialf an hour. I faw him again with the fame pleafure, but with a different fentimcnt from what he had infpired me with at our firft interview. I felt that in- ternal fatisfadtion, in which felf-Iove has fome fliare, but which we always experience in finding ourfelves in an intimacy ah'eady formed, in real fociety with a man we have long admired without being able to ap- proach him. It then feems as if this great man more peculiarly belongs to us than to the reil of mankind : heretofore we defired to of the national jealoufy, and the affectation of depre- ciating every thing American, it has had fuch fuc- cefs, as to have been feveral times publicly read in the manner of the ancients. [The Marquis de Chaffcellux may be afiured that it is not by that part of the Englifn nation who are "jealous of America, and who affe£l to depreciate every thing American," that the poem of Colonel Humphreys is admii-ed, it is by that numerous and enlightened clafs of free fpirits, who have always fupported, and wifhed prof- perity to the glorious ftruggle of America, who re- joiced at her fuccefs, and who look forward v/ith hope and pleafure to her rifmg greatnefs. Translator.] NORTH-AMERICA. 351 to fee him ; henceforth, fo to fpeak, we exhibit him ; we know him, we are better acquainted with him than others, have the fame advantage over them, that a man having read a book through, has in converfation over him who is only at the beginning. The General infifted on my lodging with him, though his houfe was much lefs than that he had at Praknefs, Several officers, -whom I had not feen at the army, came to dine with us. The principal of whom were Colonel Malcomb^ a native of Scotland, but fettled in Am^erica, where he has ferved with diftindion in the continental army ; he has fmce retired to his eflate, and is now only a militia Colonel ; Colonel Smith j", an f The author having fmce been very intimate Vv'ith Colonel Smith, can take upon himfelf to aflert, that this young man is not only a very good foldier, but an excellent fcholar. The manner of his enter- ing into the fervice merits relation: He v/a§ de- figned for the profefTion of the law, and was finifhing his ftudies at New- York, v^^hen the American army affembled there after the unfortunate affair of Long- Ifland. He immediately refolved to take arms in de- fence of his country, but his parents difapproving of this ftep, he enlifted as a common foldier, with- out making himfelf known, or pretending to any 352 TRAVELSIN an officer highly fpoken of, and who com^ manded a battalion of light infantry under M. de la Fayette ; Colonel Humphreys^ the General's Aide de Camp, and feveral others whofe names I have forgot, but who had all the beft to7i^ and the eafieft deportment. The dinner was excellent ; tea fucceeded dinner, and converfation fucceeded tea, and lafted till fupper. The war was frequently the fubjee land, where they fow Indian corn, and go a hunting for fkins, which they exchange for rum. They are fometimes employed in war, and are commended for their bra- very and fidelity. Though in fubjedlion to the Americans, they have their chiefs, to whom application is made for juftice, when an Indian has committed any crime. Mr. Glen told me, that they fubmitted to the punifhments inflicted on them ; but had no idea that it was right to punifh them with death, even for homicide. Their number at prefent is 350 ; which is conftantly di« minifhing, as well as that of the five nations. I do not believe that thefe five nations can produce four thoufand men in arms. The favages of themfelves therefore would not be much to be dreaded, were they not fup- ported by the Englifh, and the American tories. As an advanced guard, they are formidable, as an army they are nothing. But their cruelty feems to augment in pro- portion as their numbers diminifh ; it is fuch as to render it impoffible for the Ame- nicans to confent to have them long for D d 2 neighbours ; I 404 TRAVELSIN neighbours ; and a neceflary confequence of a peace, if favourable to the Congrefs, mull be their total deftrudion, or their exclu- fion at leaft from all the country within the lakes *. Thofe who are attached to the Americans, and live in fome manner under their laws, fuch as the Mohawks of the environs of Schene£tady, and part of the Oneidas, will ultimately become civilized, and be confounded with them. This is what every feeling and reafonable man fhould wifh, who, preferring the interefts of hu- manity to thofe of his own celebrity, dif- dains the little artifice fo often and fo fuc- cefsfully * Dr. Franklin, whofe amial)le and philofophic min4 fincerely laments all the evils attendant on humanity, ufed frequently to regret the painful neceflity under which he forefaw America would fliortly find herfelf of ufmg violence againfl; the favages, from the bloody fcenes into which they were led by the policy of the Englifli Government. The Tranflator has often heard him exprefs himfelf with the utmoft fenfibility on the fubje6l, and fuggeft many expedients to prevent the probability of matters being urged to that horrid ex- tremity ; but reafon, philofophy, and eloquence were in vain oppofed by good and wife men to the headlong ca- reer of that mad war. Translator. NORTH. A ME RICA. 405 cefsfully employed, of extolling ignorance and poverty, to extort praifes in fenates and academies. I had time enough to make thefe and a great many other refledions, whilft, by the fole light of the fnow, I was paffing through thefe majeftic woods, where the filence which reigns in the night is feldom dif- turbed even in the day. I did not arrive at the apartments of the Vicomte de Noailles till near eight o'clock, where fupper, tea, and converfation detained me till midnight. Still nothing was decided refpe£ting our journey, and the news we had received was by no means fatisfad:ory. The next morn- ing I received a letter from General Schuy- ler, to inform me, that having fent the evening before, he was told that I was gone to Schenedady, and from thence to Sarato- ga ; but that he was glad to know I was detained at Albany, for that finding him- felf much better of his gout, he intended accompanying me the next day. He re- quefted me to come and pafs the evening with him, to fettle our route, and our de- parture. I anfwered his letter, by accept- Dd 3 ing 4o6 TRAVELS IN ing of all his propofitions ; and employed part of the morning in walking about Al- bany, not without taking many precautions, for the ftreets were covered with ice. My firft vilit was to the artillery park, or rather the trophies of the Americans ; for there is no other artillery in this place than eight handfome mortars, and twenty ammuni- tion waggons, which made part of Bur- goyne's artillery *. I entered a large work- ihop where they were employed in making mufquets for the army. The barrels of thefe mufquets, and the bayonets, are forg- ed a few miles irom Albany, and polilhed and finifhed here. I inquired the price of them, and found that the weapon complete cofts about five dollars. The armourers are enlifted, and receive befides their rations, very confiderable falaries, if they were well paid. From thence I went to another bar- rack fituated towards the weft of the town, which * The principal part of Burgoyne*s artillery was Conveyed to Philadelphia, where I faw a very fine park, formed of thefti and the pieces taken from the HclHans, In various engagements. Translator. N O R T H- A M E RI C A. 407 which ferves as a military hofpital. The fick are ferved by women. Each of them has a feparate bed, and they appear in ge- neral to be well taken care of, and kept very clean. At dinner all the company who were to be of the Saratoga party col- lected at my lodgings, and we went after- wards to General Schuyler's to fettle mat- ters for our journey, and, in confequence, fet out the next day at funrife, in five dif- ferent fledges. General Schuyler took me in his own. We palTed the Mohawk river on the ice, a mile above the cataradl. It was almoft the firft attempt, and fucceeded with all but Major Popham, whofe two horfes broke through the ice, and funk in- to the river. This event will appear fatal to Europeans ; but let them not be alarm- ed at the confequences. It is a very com- mon accident, and is remedied in two ways: one by dragging the horfes on the ice by force, and, if poflible, by the help of a lever or plank to raife them up ; the other by ftrangling them with their halter, or the reins : as foon as they have loft their refpi- ration, and motion, they float on the water, D d 4 and 4o8 TRAVELSIN and are lifted by their fore-feet on the ice 5 the ftrid:ure is loofened, they are bled, and in a quarter of an hour are reinftated in the harnefs. As there were a great many of us, the firft method, which is the fureft, V7as employed. All this may be eafily con- ceived, but it will be afked what becomes of the fledge, and how one does to approach the gulph opened by the horfes ? The an- fwer is, that thefe animals being muctn heavier than the fledge, and fupported by four flender bafes, break the ice under their feet, without caufnig the fledge to fmk, which is light of itfelf, and its weight fup- ported by long pieces of wood which ferve by way of fnafts. The travellers are not lefs fafe, the ice being always thicker than is necefl^ary to bear them. As for the horfes, they eafily keep themfelves up on the fur- face of the water, by means of their fore- legs, and by refl:ing their heads upon the ice. The accident which happened to Major Popham's fledge, did not detain us above feven or eight minutes ; but we went a lit- tle aftray in the woods we had to pafs, to reach NORTH-AMERICA. 409 reach the high road. We came into it be- tween Half Moon and Stillwater. A mile from thence, I faw on the left, an opening in the wood, and a pretty extenfive plain, below which runs a creek, and obferved to General Schuyler, that there muft be a good poiition there : he told me I was not deceived, and that it had been reconnoitred for that purpofe in cafe of need. The creek is called Anthony 5 Rill ; the word r///, amongft the Dutch, having the fame figni- fication as creek with the Americans. Three miles farther on, we traverfed a hamlet cal- led Stillwater Landing-place^ for it is here that boats coming down from Saratoga are obliged to flop to avoid the rapids. From hence there is a portage of eight or ten miles to the place where the river is navi- gable. I imagine the name of Stillwater is derived from its tranquillity here previous to the commencement of the rapids. Ge- neral Schuyler fhewed me fome redoubts he had conftrud:ed to defend the park, where his boats and provifions were colledted, af- ter the evacuation of fort jlnne and fort Ed- ward, We flopped there to refrefh our horfes. 410 TRAVELSIN horfes. The General had given the ren- dezvous to a miUtia officer, called Swangy who lives in this neighbourhood, and ferv- ed in the army of General Gates ; he put me into his hands, and continued his route to Saratoga, to prepare our reception. I prefently got into a fledge with my guide, and, at the end of tiiree miles, we faw two houfes on the bank of the river ; it was here that General Gates had his right, and his bridge of boats defended by a redoubt on each bank. We alighted to examine this inierefting pofition, which diflipated all tlie hopes of Burgoyne, and prepared his ruin. I ihall attempt to give fome idea of it, which, though incomplete indeed, may throw fome light on the relations of Gene- ral Burgoyne, and even ferve to rectify his errors. The eminencies, called Breams* s Heights, from whence this famous camp is named, are only a part of thofe high grounds which extend along the right bank of the Hudfon, from the river Mohawk to that of Sarato- ga. At the fpot chofen by General Gates for his pofition, they form, on the fide of the \ NORTH-AMERICA. 411 the river, two different Hopes, or terraces. In mounting the firft flope, are three re* doubts placed in parallel diredions. In front of the laft, on the north fide, is a little hollow, beyond which the ground rifes again, on which are three more re- doubts, placed nearly in the fame direction as the former. In front of them is a deep ravine which runs from the weft, in which is a fmall creek. This ravine takes its rife in the woods, >and all the ground on the right of it is extremely thick fet with wood. If you Vv^ill now return upon your fteps, place yourfelf near the firft redoubts I fpoke of, and mount to the fecond flope proceeding to the weftward, you will find, on the moft elevated platform, a large en- trenchment which was parallel with the ri- ver, and then turns towards the north-weft, where it terminates in fome pretty fteep fum- mits, which were likewife fortified by fmall redoubts. To the left of thefe heights, and at a place where the declivity becomes more gentle, begins another entrenchment which turns towards the weft, and makes two or three angles, always carried over the 412 TRAVELSIN the tops of the heights to the foiith-wefl:. Towards the north-weft, you come out of the Hnes to defcend another platform, which prefents a pofition the more favourable, as it commands the furrounding woods, and refifls every thing which might turn the left flank of the army. It is here that Ar- nold was encamped with the advanced guard. If you defcend again from this height, proceeding towards the north, you are pre- fently in the midft of the woods near Free- mans Farm^ and on the ground where the actions of the 19th of September, and the 7th of October happened. I avoid the word field of battle ; for thefe two engagements were in the woods, and on ground fo inter- fedted and covered, that it is impoffible either to miceive or difcover the fmallefi: re- femh lance befzveen it and the- plan given to the public by General Burgoyne, But what appears to me very clear is, that this Ge- neral, v/ho was encamped about four miles from the camp of Breams' s Heights^ wifhing to approach, and reconnoitre the avenues to it, marched through the woods in four co- lumns, NORTH-AMERICA. 413 lumns,and that having feveral ravines to pafs, he made General Frazer, with the advanced guard, turn them at their origin ; that two other columns traverfed the ravines, and the woods, as well as they could, without either communicating or materially wait- ing for each other ; that the left column, chiefly compofed of artillery, followed the courfe of the river, where the ground is more level, and built bridges over the ra- vines and rivulets, which are deeper on that fide, as they all terminate in the river; that the engagement firft began with the riflemen and American militia, who were fupported as neceffity required, without any prior difpofition ; that the advanced guard, and the right column were the firft engag- ed, and that the combat lafted until the columns on the left arrived, that is to fay, till funfet ; that the Americans then retir- ed to their camp, where they had taken care to convey their wounded ; that the Englifh advanced guard, and the right co- lumn greatly fufFered ; both one and the other having been very long engaged in the woods without any fupport. General 414 TRAVELSIN General Burgoyne purcliafed dearly the frivolous honour pf fleeping on the field of battle ; he now encamped at Freeman's farm, fo near the American camp, that it was impoflible for him to manoeuvre, fo that he found himfelf in the fituation of a chefs-player, who fulfers himfelf to be ftale mated. In this pofition he remained until the 7th of Odober, when feeing his pro- vifions expended, hearing nMhing of Clin- ton, and being too near the enemy to re- treat without danger, he tried a fecond at- tack, and again made an attempt for his advanced guard to turn their left. The enemy, with whom the woods were filled, penetrated his defign, themfelves turned the left flank of the corps which threatened theirs, put them to rout, and purfued them fo far as to find themfelves, without knowing it, oppofite the camp of the Germans. This camp was fituated en potence^ and a little in the rear of the line. Arnold and Lincoln, animated with fuccefs, attacked and carried the entrenchments : both of them bought the vidory at the price of their blood ; each of N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 415 of them, had a leg broke * with mufquet fhot. I faw the fpot where Arnold, unit- ing the hardinefs of a jockey f with that of a foldier, leaped his horfe over the entrench- ment of the enemy. It was like all thofe of this country, a fort of parapet, formed by the trunks of trees piled one upon ano- ther. This, action was very brifk, to .which the fir trees, which are torn by mufquet and cannon fhot, will long bear teftimony : for the term of their exiftence feems as remote, as is the period of their origin. I continued reconnoitring here till night ; fometimes walking in the fnow, where I funk to the knees, and fometimes travelling ftill lefs fuccefsfully in a fledge, my con^ dudlor having taken care to overfet me, very gently indeed, in a great heap of fnow. After furveying Burgoyne's lines, I at length got down to the high road, palling through a field where he had eftablifhed his hofpi- tal. We then travelled more eafily, and I got to Saratoga at feven in the evening, af- ter * Lincoln was not wounded till the next day, ■\ The name given in America to horfe-dealers, as well as thofe who take care of horfes. 4i6 T R A V E L S I N ter a feven and thirty miles journey; we found good rooms weil warmed, an excel- lent fupper, and had a gay and agreeable converfation ; for General Schuyler, like many European hufbands, is ftill more ami- able when he is abfent from his wife. He gave us inftrusStions for our next day's ex- pedition, as weil to Fort Edward^ as to the great catarad; of Hudfon's river, eight miles above that fort, and ten from Lake George* In confequence of thefe arrangements, we fet out the next morning at eight o'clock, with the Majors Grceme and Popham, whom he had requefted to accompany us. We remounted the right bank of the Hudfon for near three miles, before we found a fafe place to pafs the river in our fledges. That we made choice of expofed us to no danger, the ice being as thick as we could wifh it ; but on approaching the oppofite fide, the banks appeared to me fo high and fteep that I could not conceive how we fhould get up them. As it is my principle to form no judgment of any thing I do not underftand, and ahvays to conform myfelf i]i travelling as in navigation, to the perfons who N 0 R T H - A M E R I C A. 417 "who are habituated to the roads, I was fit- ting quietly in my fledge, waiting the event, when my condudor, a farmer of the coun- try, called his horfes with a ferocious cry, fomething Hke that of the favagesj and in an inftant, without a ftroke of the whip, they fet off with the fledge, and, in three bounds, were at the top of a precipice, of 20 feet high, nearly pei^pendicular. The road to Fort Edward is almofl: al- ways on the fide of the river, but you fre- quently lofe fight of it in the fir-woods you pafs through. From time to time you difcover tolerable handfome houfes on the two banks. That of the unfortunate Mifs Mac Rea, who was killed by the favages, was pointed out to me. If the whigs were fuperfl:itious, they would at- tribute this event to the divine ven- geance. The parents of Mifs Mac Rea were whigs, nor did (he belie the fenti- ments with which they had infpired her, until flie became acquainted with an En- glifh officer at New-York, who triumphed at once over her virtue, and her patriotifm. From that moment flie efpoufed the inte- refl:s of England, and waited till £he had Vol. I, E e an 4iS TRAVELS IN an opportunity of marrying her lover. The war which foon extended to New- York, as well as Bofton, obliged her father to retire to his country-houfe, which he abandoned immediately on the approach of Biirgoyne's army. But Mifs Mac Rea's lover was in this army ; fhe wifhed to fee him again as a conqueror, to marry him, and then par- take of his toils and his fuccelTes. Unfor- tunately the Indians compofed the vanguard of this army ; thefe favages are not much accuftomed to diftinguifh friends from foes ; they pillaged the houfe of Mifs Mac Rea, and carried her off. When they had con- duced her to their camp, it was a matter of difpute to whom fhe fhould belong ; they could not agree, and to terminate the quar- rel, feme of them killed her with a tomo- ■ hawk. The recital of this fad cataftrophe,^ whilft it made me deplore the miferies of ■ war, concentrated all my intereft in the per- fon of the Englifh officer, to whom it was allowable to liften at once to his pafTion and his duty. I know that a death fo cruel and unforefeen, would furnifli a very pathetic fabjed for a drama, or an elegy; but no- thing fnort of the charms of eloquence and I NORTH-AMERICA. 419 and poetry is capable of moving the heart, for fuch a deftiny, by exhibiting only the effect:, and throwing the caufe into the fhade; for fuch is the true charad:er of love, that all the noble and generous alFediions feem to be its natural attendants, and if it be that it can fometimes allay itfelf with blameable circumftances, every thing at leaft which tends to humiliate or degrade it, either an- nihilates or difguifes its genuine features. As you approach Fort Edward the houfes become more rare. This fort is built at fixteen miles from Saratoga, in a little val- ley near the river, on the only fpot which is not covered with wood, and where you can have a profped: to the diftance of a muf^ quet-ihot around you . Formerly it confifted of a fquare, fortified by two baftions on the eaft-fide, and by two demi-baftions on the fide of the river ; but this old fortification is abandoned, becaufe it was too much com- manded, and a large redoubt, with a fimple parapet and a wretched pallifade, is built on a more elevated fpot : within are fmall bar- racks for about two hundred foldiers. Such is Fort Edward, fo much fpoken of in Eu- rope, although it could in no time have been E e 2 able 420 T R A V E L S I N able to refift five hundred men, with four pieces of cannon. I flopped here an hour to refrefli my horfes, and about noon fet off to proceed as far as the catarad:, which is eight miles beyond it. On leaving the- valley, and purfuing the road to Lake George, is a tolerable military pofition Vv'hich. was occupied in the v>rar before the laft ; it is a fort of entrenched camp, adapted to an abattis, guarding thepalTage from the woods,, and commanding the valley. I had fcarcely loft fight of Fort Edward, before the fpe(3:acle of devaftation prefented itfelf to my eyes, and continued to diftrefs them as far as the place I ftopped at. Peace and Induftry had conduded cultiva- tors amidft thefe ancient forefts, men con- tent and happy, before the period of this war. Thofe who were in Burgoyne's way alone experienced the horrors of his expe- dition : but on the laft invafion of the fa- Yages, the defolation has fpread from Fort Schuyler (or Fort Stanwife)^ even to Fort Edward. I beheld nothing around me but the remains of conflagrations ; a few bricks,, proof againft the fire, were the only indica- tions- N O II T H - A M E R I C A. 411 tions of ruined houfes ; whilft the fences Itill entire, and cleared out lands, announc- ed that thefe deplorable habitations had once been the abode of riches, and of hap- pinefs. Arrived at the height of the cata- ract, it was neceflary to quit our fledges, and walk half a mile to the bank of the river. The fnow was fifteen inches deep, which rendered this walk rather difficult, and ob- liged us to proceed in Indian files, in order to make a path. Each of us put ourfelves alternately at the head of this little column, as the wild geefe relieve each other to oc- cupy the fummit of the angle they form in their flight. But had our march been fl:ill more difiicult, the fight of the catarad was an ample recompenfe. It is not a flieet of water as at Cohoes^ and at Totohaw : the ri- ver confined, and interrupted in its courfe by diflferent rocks, glides through the midft of them, and precipitating itfelf obliquely, forms feveral cafcades. That of Cohoes is more majeftic, this more terrible : the Mohawk River feems to fall from its own dead weight; that of Hudfon frets, and becomes enraged ; it foams and forms E e 3 . v^'hirU 422 TRAVELS IN whirlpools, and flies like a ferpeiit making its efcape, ftill continuing its menaces by horrible hiffings. It was near tWo when we regained our fledges, having two-and-twenty miles to return to Saratoga, fo that we trod back our fteps as faft as poffible ; but we ftill had to halt at Fort Edward to refrefli our horfes. We employed this time, as we had done in the morning, in warming ourfelves by the fire of the officers who command the gar-^ rifon. They are five in number, and have about one hundred and fifty foldiers. They are flationed in this defert for the whole winter, and I leave the reader to imagine whether this garrifon be much more gay than thofe of Gravelines, or Briancon.* We fet off again in an hour, and night foon overtook us ; but before it was dark, I had the fatisfadlion to fee the firft game I had met with in my journey : it was a bevy of quails, by fome called partridges, though they have a much greater refemblance of quails. They were perched, to the number of fevcA, * Two of the rnofl melancholy garrifons in France. Translator, N O R T H - A M E R I e A. 423 feven, upon a fence. I got out of my fledge to have a nearer view of them ; they fuffer- ed me to approach within four paces, and to make them rife I was obliged to throw my cane at them ; they all went off toge- ther, in a flight fimilar to that of partridges, and like them they are fedentary.* E e 4 Our * This bird can neither be clafTed in the fpecies of quails, nor in that of partridges; it is larger than the former, and fmaller than the latter; the feathers of the wings and body are nearly of the fame colour with the grey partridge, thofe of the belly are mixed with grey and black, like the hartavelle. The neck of the cock is white, that of the hen, yellow ; both of them have a handfome black collar It whifHes like a quail, but with more force ; and has four notes, whereas the quail has only three. In other refpe£ls its manners refemble more thof^ of the red partridge than the quail, for it perchps, and is always in a flock ; it haunts the woods and morafles. This bird is very common in America, more fo to the fouthward, than in the northern parts. It is no exaggeration to affert that in one winter only, and in a circle of five or fix leagues, the officers in winter quarters at Williamf- burgh and York, killed upwards of fix thoufand, and that they bought as many of the negroes, which they had taken in little fnares, yet it was difficult tp perceive any diminution of their numbers the follow^ ing fpring. 424 TRAVELS IN Our return was quick and fortunate : we had no accident to fear but at the fecond paflage of the river, and the defcent of the precipice we had mounted. I waited for this frefh trial with as much confidence as the former ; but a fledge, which was before mine, ftopping at that place, and the dark- nefs of the night preventing me from dif- tinguifhing any thing, I imagined that the company were going to alight ; the firft fledge was that of the Vicomte de Noailles, and the Comte de Damas ; but I was fcarce- }y alighted, before I faw this fledge fet out with all its lading, and Aide down the pre- cipice with fuch rapidity that it could not be fliopped at thirty yards from the bottom. They make no more ceremony in defcend- ing thefc precipices, than in mounting them : the horfes accullomed to this manoeuvre, precipitate themfelves, as rapidly as they launch off the carriage, fo that the fledge Aiding like the Ramajfe of mount Cenis, cannot touch their hind legs and make them fall. At half pafl: fix, we reached General Schuyler's, where we fpent our evening as agreeably as the former. The / NORTH-AMERICA. 425 The 31ft we got on horfeback at eight o'clock, and Mr. Schuyler conducted us himfelf to the camp occupied by the Englifh when General Burgoyne capitulated. We could not have a better guide, but he was abfolutely neceffary for us in every refped: ; for befides that this event happened before his eyes, and that he was better able than any body to give us an account of it, no perfon but the proprietor of the ground himfelf was able to condud us fafely through the woods ; the fences and entrench- ments being covered a foot deep with fnow- In throwing your eyes upon the chart, you will fee that Saratoga is fituated on the bank of a fmall river which comes from a lake of that name, and falls into the Hud- fon. On the right bank of the FiJIj-KHly the name of that little river, flood formerly a handfome country-houfe belonging to General Schuyler ; a large farm depending on it, two or three faw-mills, a meeting- houfe, and three or four middling houfes, compofed all the habitations of this cele- brated place, the name of which will be handed down to the lateft pofterity. After 6 the « • 426 TRAVELS IN the affair of the 7th of Odober, General Burgoyne began his retreat ; he marched in the night between the 8th and 9th, but did not pafs the creek till the 1 3th, fo much difficulty he had in dragging his artillery, which he perfjled in frefervmg^ although the greateft part of his horfes were killed, or dead with hunger. He took four days therefore to retire eight miles, which ga'iis the Americans ti'mf to follow him on the right bank of the Hudfon, and to get be- fore him on the left bank, where they oc- cupied in force all the paflages. General Burgoyne had fcarcely reached the other fide of the creek, before he fet fire to Ge-^ neral Schuyler's houfe, rather from malice^ than for the fafety of his army fmce this houfe, * This is a matter in which General Burgoyne's honour, and humanity, feem to be dlre£i:ly called in queftion. The General in his examination of wit- nefTes on the inquiry into the failure of his expedi- tion before the Ploufe of Commons, was particularly anxious to exculpate himfelf on the fubjeil, and to prove not only that it always was necejfary in a military point of view to dcftroy this houfe, but that General Schuyler himfelf afterwards admitted that necejfity--^ in ©ppofition to which we have here the aflertion of NORTH-AMERIC A. 4^7 lioufe, fituated in a bottom, could afsrd no advantage to the Americans ; and he left the farm a man of rank diftinguiflied in the military and li- terary world, as well as the General, who on the tef- tlmony of General Schuyler, afferts, le Gene- ral Burgoyne fut a peine de V autre cote de la creek^ qu'il ft mettre le feu a la maifon du General Schuyler^ plutot par humhlur^ que pour la ftlrete de fon armei &c. &c." The Tranflator knows General Burgoyne to be a foldier of honour, who in that capacity never wiflies to forget the paramount duties of the citizen, and the man ; the Marquis de Chaftellux, too, defervedly Hands high in the public eftimation ; it is with in- finite concern, therefore, that the Tranflator finds himfelf unable to refute the injurious aflertion, or reconcile the contradiftion. That the matter may be fairly brought to iffue, he fubjoins an extract from General Burgoyne's fpeech in the Houfe of Com- mons, in anfwer to " a call upon him by Mr. PPllkes^ for explanation refpeiling the burning of the country during the progrefs of the army under his command." " I am ignorant, faid the General, of any fuch circumftance : I do not recollect more than one accident by fire ; I pofitively afiert there was no fire by order, or countenance of myfeli^ " or any other officer, except at Saratoga. That " diftri6l is the property of Major General Schuyler *' of the American troops ; there were large barracks " built by him, which took fire the day after the army arrived on the ground in their retreat j and 428 TRAVELSIN farm ftanding, which is at prefent the only afylum for the owner. It is here that Mr. Schuyler " I believe I need not ftate any other proof of that « matter being merely accident, than that the bar- racics were then made ufe of as my hofpital, and « full of fick and wounded ' foldiers. General " Schuyler had likewife a very good dwelling-houfe, "exceeding large ftorehoufes, great faw-mills, and " other out-buildings, to the value altogether per- « haps of ten thoujand pounds : a few days before « the negotiation v/ith General Gates, the enemy "had formed a plan to attack me: a large column *' of troops was approaching to pafs the fmall rivers, "preparatory to a general aftion, and was entirely " covered from the fire of my artillery by thofe buildings, " Sir, I avow that I gave the order to fet them on " fire ; and in a very fliort time the whole property "I have defcribed was confum.ed. But, to ftiew "that the perfon moft deeply concerned in that ca- " lamity did not put the conftrudion upon it which " it has pleafed the honourable Gentleman to do, I *' muft inform the Houfe, that one of the firft per- " fons I faw, after the convention was figned, was " General Schuyler. I exprefled to him my regret at « the event which had happened, and the reafons "which occafioned it. He defired me to think no « more of it ; faid that the occafton jujiified it, accord- " ing to the principles and rules of war, and he ^'■Jhould have done the fame upon the fame occafiony or "words to that effect. He did more— he fent an " Aide de Camp to conduct me to Albany, in or- N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 429 Schuyler lodged us in fome temporary apart- ments he fitted up, until happier times allow him to build another houfe. The creek runs between two fteep afcents, the fum- mits of which' are about the fame height ; it then defcends by feveral rapids which turn the mills ; there the ground is more open, and continues fo to the north river ; that is to fay, for half a mile. As to Ge- neral Burgoyne's pofition, it is difficult to defcribe it, becaufe the ground is fo very irregular, and the General finding himfelf furrounded, was obliged to divide his troops into three camps, forming three different fronts ; der, as he exprefled, to procure me better quarters " than a ftranger might be able to find. This gen- " tleman conduced me to a very elegant houfe, and, " to my great furprifc, prefented me to Mrs. Schuy- ler and her family : and in this General's houfe I *' remained during my whole ftay at Albany, with a *' table of more than twenty covers for me and my " friends, and every other poflible demonftration of *' hofpitality j a fituation painful as it is true in point of *' fenfibility at the time, but which I now contemplate *' with fome fatisfaftion, as carrying undeniable telli- " mony how little I deferred the charges of the ho- " nourable gentleman." Translator. 45Q TRAVELS IN fronts ; one facing the creek, another Hud^ fon's river, and the third the mountains to the weftward. General Burgoyne's plan gives a tolerable juft idea of this pofition^ which was not ill taken, and is only defec- tive on the fide of the Germans, where the ground forms a rifmg, the declivity of which was againft them. All that it is neceflary to obferve is, that the woods continually rife towards the weft ; fo that the General might very well occupy fome advantageous "eminences, but never the fummits. Ac- cordingly, General Gates, who arrived at Sa- ratoga almofl as foon as the Englifh, palTed two thoufand men over the creek, with orders to begin to fire on the 14th and con- fiderably incommode the Englilh. General Schuyler criticifes this pofition ; he pre- tends tha,t this corps fo advanced as to be in danger, without being ftrong enough to oppofe the retreat of the enemy. But when we confider that tliefe two thoufand men were pofted in very thick woods ; that they were protected by abattis ; had a fecure retreat in the immenfe foreft in their rear, and that tliey had only to harafs a flying 3 enemy, N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 431 enemy, whofe courage was broken, every military man will think with me that this was rather the criticifm of a fevere rival, than of a well informed and methodical tadician. Be this as it may, it is very cer- tain that Burgoyne had no other alternative than to let his troops be flaughtered, or capitulate. His army had only five days provifion, and it was impoffible for him to retain his pofition. It was propofed to him to reftore an old bridge of boats, which had been conftruded in the very front of his camp ; but a corps of two thoufand men were already pofted on the heights on the oppofite fide of the river, where they had raifed a battery of two pieces of cannon. Flad he undertaken to remount by the right bank, to attain the fords which are near Fort Edward, he had ravines to pafs and bridges to repair ; befides that thefe de- files were already occupied by the militia, and the vanguard alone muft have been en- gaged with them, whilft he had a whole army in his rear, and on his flanks. He had fcarce time to deliberate, the cannon Ihot began to fhower into the camp ; one of 432 TRAVELSIN of which fell in the houfe where the coun« cil of war was holding, and obliged them to quit it to take refuge in the woods. Let us now compare the fituation of Ge- neral Burgoyne, collecting his trophies, and publifhing his infolent manififlo at Ticon- deroga, with that in which he now flood, when vanquifhed, and furrounded as he was by a troop of peafants, not a place was left him even to difcufs the terms of fup- plication. I confefs that when I was con- duced to the fpot where the Englifh laid down their arms, and to that where they filed off before Gates's army, I could not but partake of the triumph of the Ameri- cans, and at the fame time admire their magnanimity ; for the foldiers and officers beheld their prefumptuous and fanguinary enemies pafs, without offering the fmallefl infult, without fuffering an infulting fmile or geflure to efcape them. This majeflic filence conveyed a very flriking refutation of the vain declarations of the Engliih Ge- neral, and feemed to atteft all the rights of our allies to the vidory. Chance alone gave rife to an ailufion with which General Burgoyne NORTH-AMERICA. 433 Burgoyne was very fenfibly afFeded. It is the cuflom in England, and in America, on approaching any perfon for the firft time, to fay, / am very happy to fee you: General Gates chanced to make ufe of this expref- lion in accofting General Burgoyne : / he^ lieve you are, replied the General, the fortune of the day is entirely yours. General Gates pre- tended to give no attention to this anfwer, and conduded Burgoyne to his quarters, where he gave him a good dinner, as well as to the principal part of the Englifh offi- cers. Every body ate and drank heartily, and feemed mutually to forget their misfor- tunes, or their fucceifes. Before dinner, and at the moment when the Americans were ftriving who fliould entertain the Engliili officers, fomebody came to afk where Madame Reidefel, the wife of the Brunfwick General, was to be conduded. Mr. Schuyler, who had fol- lowed the army as a volunteer, fmce he had quitted the command, ordered her to be fhevv^n to his tent, where he went foon after, and found her trembling and fpeech- lefs, expeding to find in every American a Vol. I. F f favage, ^34 T R A V E L S I N favage, like thofe who had followed the Englifh army. She had with her two charming little girls, about fix or feven years old. General Schuyler careffed them greatly ; the fight of this touched Madame de Reidefel and removed her apprehenfion in an inftant : Tou are tender and fenjible, faid fhe, you mujl then he generous^ and I am happy to have fallen into your hands. In confequence of the capitulation, the Engiifb army was conducted to Bofton. During their march the troops encamped, but lodgings were to be procured for the Generals, and there being fome difficulty in procuring near Albany a proper quarter for General Burgoyne and his fuite, Mr. Schuy- ler offered him his handfome houfe. He was himfeif detained by bufmefs at Sara- toga, where he remained to vifit the ruins of his other houfe, wdiich General Bur- goyne had juft deftroyed ; but he wrote to his wife to prepare every thing for giving him the beil reception, and his intentions w^ere perfedily fulfilled. Burgoyne w^as ex- tremely well received by Mrs. Schuyler, and her little family j he was lodged in the beft I apartment NORTH-AMERICA. 435 apartment in the houfe. An excellent fup- per was ferved him in the evening, the ho- noiirs of which were done with fo much grace, that he was afFedted even to tears ; and could not help faying, with a deep ligh, Indeed this is doing too much for the man who has ravaged their lands^ and burnt their afy- lum. The next morning, however, he was again reminded of his difgraces by an ad- venture which would have appeared gay to any one but him. It was always inno- cently that he was afflid:ed. His bed was prepared in a large room ; but as he had a numerous fuite, or family feveral mattref- fes were fpread upon the floor for fome of^ fleers to fleep near him. Mr. Schuyler's fecond fon, a little fpoilt child of about feven years old, very forward and arch, as all the American children are, but very amiable, was running all the morning about the houfe, according to cuftom, and open- ing the door of the faloon, he burft out a laughing on feeing all the Engliih collected, and, Ihut it after him, crying, Te are all my frifoners: this ftroke of nature was Ff 2 cruel, 436 T R'A V E L S I N cruel, and rendered them more melancholy than the preceding evening. I hope I fhall be pardoned thefe little anecdotes, which only appeared interefting . ^ to myfeif, perhaps folely from their pro- ceeding from the fource, and being acquir- ed upon the fpot. Befides, a plain journal merits fome indulgence, and when one does not write hiftory, it is allowable to write little ftories. Henceforth I have only to take leave of General Schuyler, detained by bu- fmefs at Saratoga, and to tread back my fteps as fall as poiTible to Newport. In repafQng near Breams' s Height, and Stillwater, I had again an opportunity of examining the right flank of General Bur- goyne's camp, of which it feemed to me that his plan gives a pretty accurate idea. I was alTured that I might return to Albany by the eaftern road, but on arriving at Half Moon, I learnt that the ice was broke in fe- veral places, fo that after repofmg fome time in a handfome inn, kept by Madam People^ a Dutchman's widow, I took the road by the Mohawk river, which I pafTed without accident, and arrived at Albany about N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 437 about fix in the evening. We immediately aflembled (I fpeak only of the fix French travellers) to concert meafures for our re- turn. Not a moment was to be loft, for the wind having got to the fouthward, the thaw was beginning ; and it might very well happen that we fhould be detained a confiderable time at Albany : for, when you cannot pafs the river on the ice, you are fometimes obliged to wait eight or ten days before it is navigable, and you can pafs the ferry. It was necelTary therefore to fet out immediately ; but as we were too many to travel together, it was determined that the Vicomte de Noailles and his two companions fhould fet off the next morn- ing at day-break, and fleep thirty miles from Albany ; and that I fhould fet out at noon, and ftay all night at KinderhooL The Vicomte de Noailles had left his horfes on the other fide of the river, and had already fent over his fledge, nothing therefore flood ill the way of his departure, the ice being certainly thick enough for him to pafs on foot. My fituation was very different ; I had, at Albany, two fledges, which belonged F f 3 to 438 TRAVELS IN to the State, and were furniflied me by tlie Aid-Quarter Mafter General, an excellent man, called ^akerbujh. My intention was to pay for them ; but he would not allow it, affuring me that I had only to deliver them to the Quarter-Mafter of Rhode ifland, who would return them by the firft oppor- tunity. This is a very convenient arrange- ment for the military on the continent, and for all fuch as are employed in commiflions for the public fervice : each State main- tains horfes for travelling, nothing more be- ing requifite than to deliver them to the Quarter-Mafter of the place at which you leave them. In the Northern States, there are fledges alfo for the fame purpofe. As we were deliberating on our journey, Colonel Hughes^ Quarter-Mafter of the State of New-York, came to call upon us : he had juft arrived from an expedition towards Fifti-Kill, and teftified great regret at not having been at Albany during our ftay. I muft repeat here what I have already faid, that it is impoffible to imagine a more frank, and more noble politenefs, a more couiteous behaviour, than I experienced from N O R T H - A M E R I C A. 439 from the greateft part of the American of- ficers with whom I had any concern. Mr. Hughes was fo good as to undertake to con- dud: me to the other fide of the river, and promifed to call upon me the next day at eleven o'clock. I had travelled far enough in the day to hope for a quiet fleep, but, at four in the morning, I was awakened by a mufquet fired clofe to my windows : I liftened, but heard not the fmalleft noife, or motion in the ftreet, which made me imagine it was fome mufquet difcharged of itfelf without cauf- ing any accident. I again attempted to go to fleep, but a quarter of an hour after a frefii mufquet or piftol fhot interrupted my repofe ; this was followed by feveral others ; fo that I had no longer any doubt that it was fome rejoicing, or feaft, like Our village chriftenings. The hour indeed fi:ruck me as unufual, but at length a number of voices mingled with mufquetry, crying out, new year^ reminded me that we were at the firft ' of January, and I concluded that it was thus the Americans celebrate that event. Though this manner of proclaiming it was Ff 4 not, 440 TRAVELSIN not, I muft own, very pleafmg to me, there was nothing for it but patience ; but at the end of half an hour, I heard a confufed noife of upwards of a hundred perfons, chiefly children, or young people, afl'embled under my windows, and I very foon had far- ther indication of their proximity, for they fired feveral mufquet fhot, knocked rudely at the door, and threw ftones againft my win- dows. Cold and indolence ftill kept me in bed, but Mr. Lynch got up, and came into my chamber to tell me that thefe peo- ple certainly meant to do me honour, and get fome money from me. I defired him to ftep down, and give them, two Louis ; he found them already mafters of the houfe, and drinking my landlord's r^m. In a quarter of an hour, they went off to vifit other ftreets, and continued their noife till day-light. On rifmg, I learnt from my landlord, that it was the cuftom of the country for the young folks, the fervants, and even the negroes, to go from tavern to tavern, and to other houfes, to wifh a good new year, and afk for drink, fo that there was no particular compliment to me in this affair. N O R T H- A M E R I C a; 441 affair, and I found that, after the example of the Roman Emperors, I had made a largefs to the people. In the morning, v/hen I went out to take leave of General Clinton, I met nothing but drunken people in the ftreets, but what aftoniihed me the moft was to fee them not only walk, but run upon the ice without falUng, or making a falfe ftep, whiUf it was with the utmoft dif- ficulty I kept upon my legs. As foon as my fledges were ready, I took one of them to go and bid adieu to Mrs. Schuyler, and her family, whence I re- turned to Colonel Hughes, who was wait- ing for me at the entrance of the town. He had learnt, fmce he left us, that the Baron de Montefquieu was grandfon of the author of the Spirit of Laws. Rejoiced at this difcovery, he defired me to introduce him a fecond time to the gentleman who bore fo refpeftable a name ; and a few mi- nutes after, as I was expreffing my fenfibi- lity for the fervices he had done us, and my regret at the fame time at not having it in my power to repay them, he faid to me with a fentiment truly amiable, " Well then ! " fmce 442 TRAVELSIN " fince you wifli to do fomething for me, try to procure a French copy of the Spi- *' rit of Laws. I do not fpeak your lan- *' guage, but I underftand your books, and *' fhall be happy to read that in the origi- " nal." I propofed to fend him a copy, and have been fo lucky as to be able to fulfil my promife on my return to Newport. Af- ter this converfation he took me to the river- fide, at the place he thought the fafeft ; but, as I was about to venture myfelf, the firft object I beheld was a fledge, the horfes of which were fmking under the ice, at twen- ty paces from me. Judge of my confterna- tion ; I muft tread back my fteps, and re- main perhaps a week at Albany till the thaw was complete, and the river free from floating ice. Colonel Hughes bid me to return to my inn, and remain there quietly, until he fent a man and horfe along the river to inquire for a place to pafs over. Three fledges, however, with rum for the ftate fliorehoufes appeared on the other fide, and feemed determined to nik the paflTage, but he fent a man on foot to flop them, af- ter v/hich I left him forrowfully enough. About NORTH-AMERICA. 443. About one o'clock, as I was reading by •my firefide, Mr Hughes's Secretary entered, and told me that the fledges he had fent to ftop, had perfifted in palling, and fucceeded by avoiding the hole made by the horfes I had feen fmking, and which were extricated with great difficulty. As the thaw conti- nued, I had not a moment to lofe, the horfes were inltantly put to, and I fet out, under the aufpices of Colonel Hughes, w^ho was waiting for me at the river-fide. As foon as I got over, I parted from him ; but had ftill half a mile to go upon the ice, be- fore I could get to a landing place which led me to the high road ; all danger was now over, and I reached Kinderhook with eafe towards fix o'clock. I fet out the next morning at nine, and after paffing the bridge of Kinderhoo}^, left the Clavarack road on the right, to follow that of Nobletown. I flopped in this town- fhip, and alighted at Makingjions 'Tavern^ a fmall neat inn, in which two travellers may be conveniently lodged. Having an opportunity of converfmg with the coufin and neighbour of Mr. Makingfton, of the fame 444 TRAVELSIN fame name with himfelf ; he told me he had been a Major in the American army, and received a ball throup'h his thi^h in Canada. o o He faid that his nerves, irritated with the wound, became contracted, and he halted for upwards of a year ; but that at the affair of Prince-Town, after travelling eighteen miles on foot, he happening to leap over a fence, by this effort the contraded nerves broke or rather lengthened themfelves, fo that he has never fnice been lame. As foon as my horfes had refted a little, I continued my journey, and travelling amongft woods and mountains, it was night before I got to Sheffield. I traverfed this v\^hole town, which is about two miles long, before I got to r\Ir. DewyWms.. Sheffield is a very pretty place, there are a good many well-built houfes, and the high road that feparates them is upwards of a hundred paces wide. My inn gave me pleafure the moment I entered it ; the mafler and mif- trefs of the houfe appeared polite and well educated ; but I admired above all a girl of twelve years old, wlio had all the beauty of her age, and whom Greu%e would have been happy NORTH-AMERICA. 445 happy to have taken for a model, when he painted his charming picture of the young girl crying for the lofs of her canary bird. When I was fhewn into my chamber, I amufed myfelf in looking at fome books fcattered on the tables. The firft I opened was the Abridgment of Newton's Philofo- phy : this difcovery induced me to put fome queftions to my landlord on phyfics, and geometry, with which I found him well acquainted, and that he was befides very modeft, and very good company. He is a furveyor^ a very active employment in a country where there is perpetually land to meafure, and boundaries to fix. The 3d in the morning, I was forry to find that the weather, which had been hitherto uncertain, was ended in a thaw, I had to traverfe the green woods^ a rugged, difficult, and defert country. The fnow remaining on the ground, and giving me ftill hopes of being able to continue my route in a fledge, I kept mine, and proceeded tole- rably well as far as Canaan^ a fmall town fituated on the left bank of the HoufatonicJ^y feveu miles from Sheffield Meet 'mg-houfe ; there 446 TRAVELSIN there I turned to the left, and began to climb the mountains ; unfortunately the fnow failed me where it was the moft ne- ceflary, and I was obliged to walk almoft al- ways on foot to relieve my horfes, which were fometimes labouring to drag the fledge out of the mud, and at others to pull it over ftones two or three feet high. This road is, in fad:, fo rough, that it is hardly pofllible to make ufe of fledges, unlefs there be a foot and a half of fnow upon the ground. It was w^ith the utmofl: difliculty therefore I travelled fifteen miles to a wretched inn dependent on Norfolk. On leaving this inn, I got into the green woods. This foreft is part of the fame chain of mountains I had pafl^ed in going to Fifli- Kill by the Litchfield road ; but here the trees are fuperb ; they are firs, but fo ftrong, fo fl:raight and lofty, that I doubt whether there are any like them in all North Ame- rica. I regret that Sahator Rofa^ or Gaf- pard PouJJin^ never faw the majefl:ic and truly grandiofo pid:ure a deep valley here af- fords, through which runs the fraall river called the Naragontad, This valley ap- epars NORTH-AMERICA. 447 pears ftill more narrow from the immenfe firs that fhade it ; fome of which, rifmg in an obUque diredion, feem to unite their tops purpofely to intercept the rays of the fun. When you have paffed this river, you mount for four or five miles, and then defcend as much ; continually bounding from one large ftone to another which crofs the road, and give it the refemblance of ftairs. Here one of my fledges broke, and night approach- ing, I was at a lofs how to repair it, imagin- ing myfelf in an uninhabitable defert ; I tried to get it forward broken as it was, but defpaired of fucceeding, when two hundred fteps further on, I found a fmall houfe, and oppofite to it a forge, where the fire was lighted, and the blackfmith at work. A pilot who difcovers land in unknown feas, is not more happy than I was at this fight. I politely requefted the honeft man to leave his work and repair my fledge, which he agreed to, and I continued to follow that in good condition on foot, defpairing of ever feeing the other, which arrived how- ever an hour after me. Such are the re- fources travellers meet with in America, and fuch 448 TRAVELSIN fuch the excellent police * of this country, that no road is deftitute of what is neceffary for their wants. This day was deftined to be full of con- trarieties. It was feven in the evening when * The word police Is certainly inapplicable in this cafe, although the fzQ: be, as the Marquis ftates it. The refpedlive governments of America never dreamt of compelling perfons to keep public houfes, or blackfniith's, and wheelwright's fhops, nor could llich a regulation be enforced without infinite diffi- culty, even in eftabliflied and arbitrary governments. A moment's reflection, but above all, a knov/Iedge of the conftitutions, and the nature of the country, may (Convince any perfon that this affertion, which is re- peated in this v/ork, can only be the refult of mifin- formation, or mifapprehenfion. I have faid that the exiftencc of thefe refources is a fa6t, having experi- enced their utility and frequency in all parts of the country, but this arifes from the neceffity of fuch occu- pations, in the innumerable new fettlements which are fpread over great part of the continent, wherein every fettler is obliged, more or lefs, to be a handicraftfman, and where they are all compelled mutually to adrninifter to each other's Vv'ants. In them too, the publican, who is fo far from being precluded from other pur- fuits, that he frequently becomes the firll farmer, the firli: magiftrate, the firft military officer of the diftri6l, is a necelTary appendage. Translator, NORTH-AMERIC A. 449 when I arrived at New Hartford^ where I exped:ed to find a good inn, called Gilbert's houfe. Three American officers, who, having rode on horfeback, had very ealily pafl^ed me, were (o poUte as to go further on, in order to leave me the whole houfe ; but I was told, . and it was evident on entering, that it was impoffible I could be accommodated. The mafons were repairing it, and at work every where : fo that I had now no other hope but at the inn of a Mr. Cafe^ two miles further, beyond Farmington-river ; but learning that the American officers were there, I inquired v/hether I could not be lodged elfewhere, and was recommended to an old woman, called Mrs. Wallen^ who formerly kept an inn, and I was flattered with hopes of her receiving me. I conti- nued therefore to follow my fledge on foot, and having, v/ith difficulty, reached this houfe, I implored Mrs. W alien's hofpitality, who confented, but merely to oblige me. I remained here fome time, but finding it a very poor houfe, and the apartments wretched, I fent one of my people to Cafe's, to try if he could find me fome corner to Vol. I. G g lodge 450 T R A V E L S I N lodge in. They contrived to let me have one, and I wmt thither on foot, leaving my horfes at the other houfe. I was lucky enough to find a good bed, and a fupper, fuch as it was, but which appeared to me excellent, lefs becaufe I had a good appetite, than from being waited on by a tall woman of five-and-twenty,handfome, and of a noble appearance. I inquired of my landlady if fhe was her daughter, but ihe, a good, fat woman, very induftrious and talkative, and who had taken me into favour for giving ready anfwers to the queftions £he had put, told me fhe had never had any children, although fhe then had one in her arms, which fhe was dandling and carefTmg. To whom does that belong then ? faid I. To the tall woman you fee, replied fhe — And who is her hufband ? — ^She has none — She is a widow then ? — No, fhe was never mar- ried. It is an unlucky affair, too long to tell you : the .poor girl was in want, I took her to live with me and provide for the mother and child. Is it advancing a pa- rados to fay, that fuch condud proves, more than NORTH-AMERICA. 451 than any thing, the pure and refpedable manners of the Americans ? With them vice is lb ftrange, and fo rare, that the dan- ger of example has ahnoft no effect ; fo that a fault of this nature is regarded only as an accideatal error, of which the individual, attacked with it, muft be cured, without taking any meafures to efcape the contagion. I muft add too, that the acquifition of a ci- tizen in this country is fo precious, that a girl, by bringing up her child, feems to ex- piate the v/eaknefs which brought it into ex- iftence. Thus morality, which can never dif- fer from the real intereft of fociety, appears fometimes to be local and modified by times and circumftances. When an infant with- out an afylura, and without property, fhall become a burthen to the ftate, a being de- voted to misfortune, owing its prefervation to pity alone, and not to the public utility, we fhall then fee the mother humbled, nay perhaps punifhed, and this feverity will then be vindicated here, as well as elfewhere, by all thofe auftere dogmas which at prefent are negleded or forgotten.* G g 2 I pro- * It is to be hoped that it will be long, very long we the barbarous prejudices and punifJiments of po- 452 TRAVELS IN I propofed making a Ihort journey the next day to Hartford, fifteen miles only from the place I flept at, but it feeming to me impoffible to perform it except on horfe- back, I left the two State fledges with Mr. Cafe, taking a receipt from him, which I afterwards delivered to Mr. Wadfworth, At firft I w^as not fatisfied with the exchange, as I travelled fome time on heights covered with fnow, well calculated for the fledge, but Hfhed Europe fhall be introduced into this happy country. At prefent, the natural commerce between the fexes univerfally takes place, to the exclufion of exotic vices, and v/ithout involving the weak and un- protected female in all the horrors of fhame, mifery, and child-murder. Here libertinifm is by no means the confequence of an accidental frailty, nor is the mother, v/ho, in following the ftrong inipulfe of Na- ture, has given a member to fociety, thrown an Out-caft upon the world, loft to herfelf, and com- pelled to become vicious. The error of paffion, though condemred, is venial, and fhe is neither driven to defpair by cruelty, nor excluded from the fweet profpeft of giving birth to future ojftspring, under the fanction of every legitimate and facred title. Nothing is more common in t])is country, than fuch flips in tlie firft violence of an early pu- bcity, nor icfs frequent than a repetition of the fame Vv'eaknefs. Translator. N O R T H - A M E R I G A. 453 but on defcending towards Farmington ri- ver, I found the thaw complete, and mud inftead of fnow. The woods I had juft pafled through, were very different from, the Greenwoods ; they were full of fmali firs, whofe verdant hue pleafed the eye, and the road was by accident fo prettily laid out, that it is impoffible to imagine a better mo- del for walks in the Engliih ftyle. When I had palTed Farmington river, I mounted a pretty long and fteep hill, on which I obferved, from time to time, objects interefting to the lovers of natural hiftory. You fee, amongft other things, large m.affes of rocks, or rather vafl blocks of Hone, which, have no fort of correfpondence with the reft of the mountain, and appear as if they had been launched there by fome volcano, I remarked one more fmgular than the reft, and ftopped to meafure it : it is a fort of focky or long fquare, thirty feet long by twenty high, and as many v/ide, not unlike the pedeftal of the ftatue of Peter the Great one fees at Peterfburgh. On the eaft fide, it is fplit from top to bottom, the crack is about a foot and a half wide at the top, but much G g 3 lefs 454 TRAVELSIN lefs at bottom. Some fhmbs vegetate in the little earth there is, and on the very fummit of the rock grows a fmall tree, but I could not tell of what fpecies. The ftone is hard, of the nature of quartz, and is no wife volcanized. I got to Hartford about three, and being informed that Mr. Wadfworth was abfent, I was afraid of incommoding his wife and fifter by going to lodge there, and went to a very good inn kept by Mr. Bull^ who is accufed of being rather on the other fide of the queftion ; a polite method of defignating a tory. I only made a tranfient vifit there- fore to Mrs. Wadfworth, to invite myfelf to breakfaft the next morning. The 5th I did not fet out till eleven, although I had thirty miles journey to Lebimon. At the paffage of the Ferry, I met with a detach- ment of the Rhode Illand regiment, the fame corps we had v/ith us all the lall fum- mer, but they have fmce been recruited and clothed. The greatefc part of them are negroes or mulattoes ; but they are fcrong, robuft men, and thofe I have feen had a very good appearance. We had fine wea- '' I. ther NORTH-AMERICA. 455 ther all day, and got to Lebanon at funfet. Not that I got to Lebanon Meeting-houfe^ where the Duke de Lauznn was quartered, with his Huffars, that was fix miles farther ftill travelling in Lebanon. Who would not think after this, that I am fpeaking of an immenfe city ? and in fad:, this is one of the moft confiderable tovv^ns in the country, for it confifts of at leaft one hundred houfes ; but it is unneceffary to add, that they are much fcattered, and diftant from each other frequently more than four or five hundred paces. It will be eafily imagined that I was not forry to find myfelf in the French army, of which thefe HulTars formed the advanced guard, although their quarters be feventy- five miles from Newport ; but there are no circumftances in which I fliould not be hap- py with M. de Lauzun. For two months I had been talking, and liftening, with him I converfed : for it mufi: be allov/ed that con- verfation is ftill the peculiar forte of the amiable French ; a precious appendage for our nation, which it negled:s pofhbly too much, and may one day chance to forfeit.^ G g 4 It 456 T R A V E L S I N It is told of an Englifhmaii accuftomed to be filent, that he faid, talking fpoils conver- fation. This whimfical exprefllon contains great fenfe : every body can talk, but no- body knows how to liften ; infomiich that the fociety of Paris, fuch as I left it, re- fembles the chorus of an opera, which a few coryphees alone have a right to interrupt ; each theatre has its particular coryphseus ; each theatre has its chorus too, which chime in, and its pit which applaud without knowing why. Tranfplant the actors, or change the theatre, the elFed; of the piece is lollo Fortunate for the fped:ators, v/hen the ftock is abundant, and they are not fa- tiated with a repetition of the fame produc- tion. But I am got very far from America, where I mud return however, if it be only to hunt a few fquirrels. The Duke de Lau- zun entertained me with this diverhon, which is much in faihion in this country. Thefe animals are laxge, and have a more beauti- ful fur than thofe in Europe; like ours, they are very adroit in flipping from tree to tree, and in clinging fo clolely to the branches as to become almofc invifible. You frequently wound N O R T H - A M E R I C A. * 457 wound them, without their falling; but that is a flight inconvenience, for you have only to call or fend for fomebody, who applies the hatchet to the tree, and pre- fently knocks it down. As fquirrels are not rare, you will conclude then, and very juft- ly, that trees are very common.* On re- turning from the chace, I dined at the Duke de Lauzun's, with Governor I'urnbull and General Huntingdon. The former lives at Lebanon, and the other had come from Norwich, I have already painted Governor Turnbull, * There are alfo a great number of Jlying fquirrels in Gonne£licut. They are fmaller than the others, whith they greatly referable in their form and fkin. Every body knows that they are called flying fquirrels from the facility with which they fupport themfelves a long time in the air, by means of a long membrane, or fkin, attached to the lower part of their feet : when they are in a£lion this is folded up under their bellies ; but when they want to leap from one tree to another, they fpread their feet, and this fldn forms a kind of fail which fupports them in the air, and affifts them even in their motion. There is alfo throughout North America another fort of fquirrels, called land fquirrels^ becaufe they do not climb the trees, but burrow in the earth like rabbits. Their hair is fhorter, and of a deer co- lour, firiped with black. Thefe animals are very pretty, and not wild. 45$^ TRAVELSIN Turnbull^ at prefent you have only to re- prefent to yourfelf this Httle old man, in the antique drefs of the lirfl fettlers in this colony, approaching a table furrounded by twenty Huffar officers, and without either difeoncerting himfelf, or lofmg any thing of his formal ftiffnefs, pronouncing, in a loud voice, a long prayer in the form of a benedi" cite. Let it not be imagined that he excites the laughter of his auditors ; they are too well trained : you muft, on the con- trary, figure to youilfelf twenty amens iffu- ing at once from the midft of forty muf- taches,* and you will have fome idea of this little fcene. But M. de Lauzun is the man to relate, how this good, methodical Governor, didactic in all his actions, inva- V riably fays, that he will conjtdcr ; that he muft refer to his council ; how cf little af- fairs he makes great ones, and how happy a mortal he is when he has any to tranfad. Thus, in the two hemifpheres, Paris alone excepted, ridicule muft not imply inaptitude to * The Huflars of Lauzun's legicn, and the Duke himfelf wore muftaches in America. Translator. NORTH-AMERICA. 459 to govern ; fmce it is by the charader men govern, and by the chara(Ster men make themfelves ridiculous. I propofed leaving Lebanon the 7th at ten o'clock, but the vreather was fo bad that I ftaid till paft one, expecting it to clear up ; I was obliged, however, to fet out at laft in a melting fnow, the moft conti- nued, and the cold|fl: I ever experienced. The bad weather urged me on fo faft, that I arrived at Voluntown about five o'clock. If the reader recollects what I have faid at the beginning of my journal of Mr. Dor- rance's houfe, he will not be furprifed at my returning to it with pleafure. Mifs Pearce however was no longer there, but fhe was replaced by the youngeft Mifs Dor- rance, a charming pretty girl, although not fo regular a beauty as her friend. She has, like her, modefty, candour, and beauty in all her features ; and has, befides, a ferenity mix- ed with gaiety, which render her as amiable as the other is interefting. Her eldeft fifter had laid in fmce I was laft at Voluntown ; fhe was in a great chair, near the fire, around which her family were feated. Her noble and 460 T R A V E L S I N and commanding countenance feemed more changed by misfortune than by fulFering ; yet every body about her was employed in confoling and taking care of her ; her mo- ther, feated by her, held in her arms the in- fant, fmiUng at it, and careffing it j but as for her, her eyes were forrowfuUy fixed up- on the httle innocent, eying it with intereft, but without pleafure, if fhe were faying to it, mtfero paragoletto il iuo dejiln^ non fai.^ Never did a more interefting or more moral pid:ure exercife the pencil of a Greuze, or the pen of a tender poet. May that man be banifhed from the bofom of fociety who could be fo barbarous as to leave this ami- able girl a prey to a misfortune which it is in his power to repair ; and may every bene- di(51:ion which heaven can beftow be fhow- ered on the being, generous and juft enough to give her more legitimate titles to the hal- lowed names of wife and mother, and thus reftore her to ail that happinefs, which Na- ture had defigned her. f My * Unhappy child ! thou knoweft not the lot that is teferved for thee. Mstajlafio. Demophoon. t See what is faid on this fubje'fV, in a note at the commencement of this Journal., NORTH-AMERICA 461 My journey henceforward affords nothing worthy of the finalleft attention. I flept next day at Providence, and arrived the 9th at Newport ; fatisfied with having feen many interefting things, without meeting with any accident; but with a forrowful ■ reflediion that the place I arrived at, after travelling fo far, was flill fifteen hundred leagues from that where I had left my friends ; where I fhall enjoy the little know- ledge I have acquired, by fharing it with them ; where I fhall again be happy, if there flill be any happinefs in ftore for me ; the only place, in fhort, dove da longhi errori fpero di repofar . * * I wifh to recompenfe thofe who fiiall have the patience to complete the perufal of this Journal, by laying before them the charming paffage of Metajlajie from whence thefe words are borrowed. L'Onda dal mar divifa Ecgna la valla e il monte, ' Va paffagierc in fiume Vaprigionicra in fontc; Mormora fempre e geme Fin che non torna al mar. Al 462 T R A V E L S, &q. Al mar dove ella nacque Dove acquifto' gli umori Dove da lunghi errori Spera di repofar. The following is a free tranflation : The wave once feparated from the fea, ftrays over the mountains, or bathes the vallies : anon it travels with the rivers, &c. now is kept prifoner in the fountains ; but it never ceafes to murmur and complain until it returns unto the fea. To the fea its native abode, to the fea its laft afylum, where fatigued after its long wanderings, it hopes at length to find fome repofe. 2.ND OF THE FIRST VOLUME.