I 
 
 
 
 1£k SltbrtB 
 
 SEYMOUR DURST 
 
 
 -t ' 'Port nUua/ ^m^erc^m^ oj^ Je M^rnha-fan^ -s^^^—i- -- 
 
 
 FOT^T NEW AMS TERDAT^^^^^^^^ (^JEW YORK ) , J651, 
 
 "When you leaue, please leave this hook 
 
 'Because it has been said 
 "Ever'thing comes t' him who waits 
 
 Except a loaned hook." 
 
* 
 
TOUR 
 
 FROM THE CITY OF NEW-YOEK, TO BETROIT, 
 IN THE MICHIGAN TERRITORY, 
 
 MADE BETWEEN' THE 2d OF MAY AND THE 22d OF SEPTEMBER, 1818^ 
 
 The Tour extends from New- York, by Albany, Schenectady, and Utica, to 
 Sacket's Harbor, and tlieuce through Lake Ontario, to St. Lawrence river, and 
 down that stream to Hamilton villag:e. Thence along both banks of the St. Law- 
 / Fence, froin Hamilton to the Tiiousand Island.^ ; thence to Sacket's I~Jarbor hy 
 water ; from that place by the route of great Sodas, Geneva, Canandaigua, and 
 Batavia, to ISuflalo ; and from thence to Black Rock, f'ort Erie, the Fall.5 of JJi- 
 asfara, Queenstown, Lewiston, and the memorable fields of Bridgowatcr and 
 Chippewa. After viewing the interesting pass of Niagara, the author traversed 
 the south shore of Lake Erie to the City of Detroit, and visited in the latter range 
 Dunkirk, Erie, Cleveland, Sandusky, and other places of less note. 
 
 The Tour contains notices of vvliat fell under the author's observation concern- 
 ing the ^latural history and geography of the region dver which bis travels ex- 
 pended, with brief remarks upon such remarkable events and characters as have 
 eontributed to give interest to different places. 
 
 THE TOUR IS ACCOMPANIED WITH A MAP UPON WHICH THE 
 EOUTE WILL EE DESIGNATED ; A PARTICULAR MAE 
 OP THE FALLS AND EIVBR OF NIAGARAj 
 And THE ENVIRONS OF THE 
 CITr OF DETROIT. 
 
 BY WILLIAM HABBY, 
 
 MEMBER OF THE NEW-YOUK HISTORICAL &OCIETY. 
 
 Author of a Map and Statistical Account of Louisiana; and Emigrant's Guidf?/ 
 
 J^TEW-YORK: 
 
 PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR, BY KIRK & MERCEIN, 
 
 And sold by Kirk k. Mercein, A. T. Goodrich Si Co. James Eastburn & Co. W. B. 
 GiUey, Charles Wiley & Co. R. M'Dermut, William Hooker, and Collins & Co. 
 New- York, and by some others of the principal Booksellers in the United 
 States. 
 
 i819. 
 
 PBSSTBI) BY 33. WORTHISCTOM, BROOKLYN'.' 
 
SbtnUEUN DiSTKICt OF NEW-YORKj ss. 
 
 BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the slxtwntl-} day of January, 
 "^^m^^^ in the Eoi'ty-lhird vear of the Independence of the United States 
 
 of America, A. D. 1819, WILLIAM DARBY, of thf5 said district, 
 ^^I^^K'V' hafh deposited in this office the Title of a Book, the ri^ht whereof 
 VjJ^l^i he claims lib Proprietor, in the words following, to wit: 
 
 " A Tour from the City of New-York, to Detroit, in the Michigan Territory* 
 made between the 2d of May, and the 22d of September, 1S18. The Tour ex- 
 tends from New- York, by Albany, Schenectady, and Utica, to Sacket's Harborf 
 and thence through Lake Ontario, to St. Lawrence river, and down that stream 
 to Hamilton villa2:e. Thence along both banks of the St. l^awreiice, from fla- 
 in it ton to the '[housand Islands ; thence to Sacket's Harbor by water ; from tiiat 
 place by tiie route of great Sodus, Geneva, Canandaif^na, and Batavia, to Buffa- 
 lo ; and from ihenceto BiackRock, Fort Erie, the Falls of Niagara, Queenstnwuj 
 Lewiston, and the memorable fields of Brid_t;ewater and Chippewa. After view- 
 ing t]ie iiitei esting pass of Niagara, the author ti'aversed the south ehore of 
 Lake Erie to the City of Detroit, and visited in the latter range Dunkirk, Ericj 
 Cleveland, Sandusky, and other places of less note. The Tour contains notices 
 of winit fell under the author's observation concerning the natural hi.story and. 
 f^eography of the region over which his travels . extended, with brief remarks 
 upon such remarkable events and characters as have contributed to give interest 
 to diflerent places. The Tour is accompanied with a Map up(»n which the route 
 will be designated ; a particular Maj) of the Falls and River of Niag"ara, and the 
 environs of the City of Detroit. By William Darbv, Member of the iNew- 
 York Historical Society. Author of a Map and Statistical Account ol Louisia- 
 na ; and Emi^i;^nt's Gi^d^" 
 
 SJn confomnity^to the A^of the Congress of the United Siates, entitled, " An 
 Act for ihe enoouV.agement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Ch;^rt.^^, 
 and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, dniingtbe time there- 
 in mentioned."— And also to Ihc Act, entitled, An Act supplementary to an 
 Act, entitled an Act for (gl^rencom-agement of learning, by securing the copies 
 of Maps, Cliarts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, du- 
 j'ing the times tlierein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts 
 &!' designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.'' 
 
 JAMES DILL, GVerk of the StJuthern District of Xew-York, 
 
I wrapped mijsdf in my cloak, and lay down under (i 
 laurel, on the hank of the Eurotas. The night was so pure, 
 and so serene, and the milky waij shed such a light, refieeted 
 hj the current of the river, that you might see to read hy it. 
 I fell asleep with my eyes fixed upon the heavens, having the 
 heaultful constellation of Leda's swan exactly over mtj head. 
 I still recollect the^ileasure which I formerly received from 
 thus reposing in the woods of America, find especially from 
 £iwaking in the middle of the night. I listened to the whist- 
 ling of the wind through the wilderness ; the braying of the 
 does and stags ; the roar of a distant cataract; while Ike 
 embers of my half extinguished fre, glpwed betiveen thefoli- 
 tigf, of the trees. I loved even to hear t he voice of the Iro- 
 qiiois, when he shouted in the recesses of his forests, and when, 
 in the brilliant star-light, amid the silence of nature, he seem- 
 ed to be proclaiming his unbounded liberty. Ml this tnay af- 
 ford delight at twenty ; because, then life sufjlces, in a man- 
 ner, for itself, and lliere is in early youth, a certain restless- 
 jtess and inquietude, which incessantly encourage the creation 
 of chimeras, ipsi sibi somniafingtmt: hut in maturer age, the 
 mind contracts a relish for more solid pursuits, and loves, in 
 parilcular, to dwell on the illustrious cxamiiles I'ecorded in 
 hislonj. Gladly would I again make my couch on the banks 
 of the Eurotas, or the Jordan, if the heroic .shades of the 
 three hundred Spartans, or the twelve sons of Jacob, were ta 
 visit my slumbers ; but I would not go again to explore a vir- 
 gin soil, which (he ploughshare has never laeerafcd. Give 
 me<noiv a7icicnt descrtp, where I can conjure up at pleasure, 
 
JV 
 
 PRErACE. 
 
 tlic tvhlls of Buhyloii, or the legions of Tliarsulia—granH'm 
 osa ,• plains whose f urrows convey instruction, and where, 
 mortal as I am, I trace the blood, the tears, and the sweat, of 
 human kind."* 
 
 I cannot eonceive the sa*is['ae(ioii it can give, to a generous 
 and feeling heart (o trace the last fragments of a ruined ci- 
 iy, or behold reduced (o dcsolaiion, fields that once waved in 
 golden harvest. To the cje of reason and philosophy, a re- 
 -view may be desirable of the revolulions of Iiuman society' 
 in all the various stages fi-om the savage iiorde to (he most 
 refined eivilizaUon ; hut to uie, it would yield more pain than 
 gratification, to behold Rome, Athens, or Jerusalem, in dust 
 and ashes. 1'lie reminiscence that should rec.al former great- 
 ness, that would raise in imagination Ironi the tomb the Peri- 
 cles, Euripides, Maccabees, the Seipios or the Csesars, 
 ■would excite, rather a tear of bitter regret, than a pleasing 
 sentiment of poetic enthusiasm, on glancing over the oeeaa 
 of past time. I wooild rather indulge my fancy in following 
 the future progress, than in surveying the wreck of human 
 liappiness ; I would rather see one flourishing village rising 
 fi'otn the American wilderness, than behold the ruins of B&t- 
 l)cc, Palmyra, and Pcrsepolis. 
 
 Like Chateaubriand, I liave often reposed in thewoods and 
 plains of JS'orth America, in the siknee of night, undei- the 
 £>'lances of the swan of Leda, the gleams of Sirius, or the 
 beams of the pale moon playing amid the leaves of the fo- 
 rest, or exhibiting the fairy picture of the distant prairie, 
 1 have thus often, in the awful solitude of the cane brake, 
 or (he cedar groves, contemplated the rapid march of active 
 industry ; I have fancied the rise of (owns and villages, (he 
 clearing of fields, (he creation of rich harvests, of orchards, 
 jiieadows, and pastures. I have beheld (he deep gloom around 
 me dispelled, the majestic but dreary forest disappeared, the 
 savage was turned into civilized masi ; schools, colleges, 
 
 * Travels in Greece. Palestine, Egypt, and Barbary, by F. A- 
 de Cbateaubiiaiid; Siioj-beil's tiansiation, N, Y. p. 109. 
 
eliurelies, and legislative lialls ai ose. The river, upon whose 
 banks now grew tiie tangled vine, and in whose waters the 
 loathsome alligator floated, became covered with harks load- 
 ed with the produce of its shores ; I heard liie songs o£ joy 
 and gladness ; I beheld fair science shed her smiles upon a 
 happy and enlightened people ; I beheld the heavenly form 
 of religion, clothed in the sim^Je garb of love atjd truth, 
 teaciiing ihe precepts of present and everlasting peace; 1 
 saw lihcfiy and law interposing hetween (he shafts of op- 
 pression and the bosom of innocence ; — and I saw the stern 
 broiv of justice bedewed with a tear over the chastised vie- 
 tins. 
 
 Many were the long and tedious hours T have thus beguil- 
 ed, when no sound interrupted my chain of reflection, 
 «xcept the sighing of tlie nightly breeze, and i have enjoyed 
 a pleasure greater tJian man ever f^ll amongst broken co- 
 lumns and disjoined arcades." 1 have seen on an imnfense 
 surface, these warm anticipations realized. In west Tirgi- 
 iiia, in west Pennsylvania, in Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illi- 
 nois, Tennessee, Missouri, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Ala- 
 liama ; in west New-York, Michigan, and in Canada, I have 
 for thirly-five years, been a witness to the change of a wil- 
 derness to a cultivated garden. I have roamed in forests, and 
 upon the same ground now stand legislative halls, and tem- 
 ples of religion. New states have risen, and arc daily rising 
 upon this once dreary waste. 1 am willing to leave the man 
 iinenvied to his enjoyments, who would prefer the barbaric 
 picture uow presented by Greece, Asia Minor, Syria, and 
 Palestine, tJ the glowing canvass whose tints are daily be- 
 coming riclier and stronger, upon the rivers and hills of 
 North America, I would rather read the immortal works 
 of Homer, Thucidydes, or Demosthenes, upon the banks of 
 the Ohio or St. Lawrence, than search the deserted tombs of 
 those mighty geniuses, in their now desolate native land. 
 These men have left their bones to oblivion, their works 
 they have bequeathed to the human raee. Amid the thou- 
 
■V!" 
 
 «an(l olijecis ihnt are constantly before tlic men(al eye, itt 
 <Iiis new moral erealion. none is more wonderful or more at- 
 luring than (he existence of more (ban a tliousand semina- 
 I'ies of education, wbere less than thirty years past, stood no 
 mansion of civilized man. 
 
 In this as in every otiier of my works, I have given my 
 naked reflections to the reader. Too much of niy life has 
 been spent in actu'al travelling, to admit the order and polish 
 of a writer who enjoyed more closet leisure ; but to relate 
 what I saw, needed not a finished erudition, it demanded a. 
 I'cspeet for truth and human esteem ; a respect, the sense of 
 whiuh I trust never to lose, until I cease to exist amongst 
 mankind. 
 
 WILLIAM DAEB¥v 
 
 JVV(!-I'orfc, Janucmj i, 1813. 
 
TO TOE KEADEE. 
 
 Before perusing; this treatise, the reader is respec^fiillj requested to observe 
 and note the tbllowing omissions and corrections. 
 
 I find on reviewing the sheets, tlint I have not been sufficiently explicit in my 
 notices of the following;' places, upon tlie St, Lawrence river : Hamilton, Og- 
 (iensburgh, Prescott, Brockville, and Morristown. I have subjoined the foilovk'- 
 tng brief description of these towns : 
 
 Haiidlton, is a village in St. I^awrence county, in the state of New- York, stand- 
 ing- upon the bank of St. Lawrence river, opposite Ogden's island. This villag-e 
 has been recently established ; it is thriving-, and like all towns upon the St. 
 Lawrence, has a fine effect, from the gentle acclivity of the ground upon which 
 it stands. The soil in this neighborhood is excellent ; timber, composed of hem- 
 lock, pine, and sugar maple, 
 
 Ogdmsburgh stands upon the lower point of land, formed by the junction of the 
 Oswegatchie with the St. Lawrence river ; the site is high, and like all other 
 parts of the St. Lawrence banks, rises by gradual acclivity tVom the water. Og- 
 densburg is the seat of Justice in and for St. Lawrence countVj and has a pros- 
 perous appearance, with a post-office, three or four taverns, eight or ten stores, 
 several mechanics' shops, such as carpenters, hatters, shoemakers, and tay- 
 lors. The town contains about 80 dwelling-houses, and about 4Q0 inhabitants. 
 The mouth of the Osvvegatchie river forms a good harbor for small vessels. 
 
 FrescoUj in the township of Augusta, county of Grenvilie, stands upon the Can- 
 ada shore of St. Lawrence river, opposite Ogdensburg. The two towns do not 
 differ much in extent or number of inhabitants. Prescott is the seat of justice 
 for the county in which it is situated, and is a flourishing, commercial village. 
 
 Prescott and Ogdensburg, occupy the lowest points of ship navigation from 
 lake Ontario ; two steam-boats are in operation between these towns, and 
 Kingston, Sacket's Harhoi', and other places in lake Ontario. 
 
 Brockville, the seat of justice for the coUpty of Leeds, U pper Canada, Stan's 
 upon the bank of St. Lawrence, in Elizabeth township, 16 miles above Prescott. 
 'J'he situation of Brockville is pleasing and romantic. The banks on the Cana- 
 da side, above and below the town, are high, rocky, and precipitous, and t\te 
 river chequered with islands. The opposite bank of the river, in the state of 
 jSew-York, is yet a forest. The neighborhood around iirockviilo "is well culti- 
 vated and populous; the town is flourishing and commercial. 
 
 MorrisUmn is a sniail village vipon the St. Lawrence, in the county of St. Law- 
 rence, about two luiles below Brockville. This village has but little to render it 
 remarkable, consisting only of about a dozen houses, wiEh a- post-office. 
 
 Describing Utica_j (see page 55) } emitted to menjioa it.s fine, bridge over llie. 
 Mohawk river. 
 
Viii 
 
 TO THE READER. 
 
 Page 27, third line of the note, for " this latter circunisianeSi tons, lioweter^ no 
 donht" reatl, tliis latter circtimstance was no rloiibt. , 
 
 Page 37j 9th line from the top, for '■'from the margin dell" reail from the mai"- 
 
 Page 55, fourth line from the top, for " cUij of Utica,'' read, town of Utica. 
 Page 59, line 12tli fromtlic top, for colonial," read, colloquial. 
 Page 61j third line from the top, for ■producing effects read, which produced 
 effects. . 
 
 Page Tlj line ilth from tlie bottom, for " side Umd,^' read, land side. 
 
 Page 73, lines four and fiv'e from the bottom, fov " ten or tweloe iniles," re^m^J 
 two or thref; miles. 
 
 Pagp91,line 15th from the top, for " muddir/os,'^ read muddiness. 
 
 Page 113; I there mention an intention to note the comparative quantity of 
 wate" in the St. Lawrence and t!ie Mij-siiisippi rivers, but have omitted that of 
 ihe latter ; the reader will please substitute for (" see appendix, jVo.2/') the 
 following words, applied to the Mississipjti : 
 
 " We may imagine a semi-ellipsis, whose longitudinal diameter re presents the 
 liver's breadth, and whose longest ordinate, its depth ; allow 150 feet as the 
 length of the ordinate line, or deptli of water at the greatest elevation, and 2,4CM} 
 feet as the extent of the elliptical diameter or river's breadth, we are confident 
 that those constituent principles will give a very correct result. From the ap- 
 plication of the abo?e elements, 141,372 cubic feet would be contained within 
 one foot longitudinal section of the river. At the rate of one mile an hour, 
 J3,230 feet in length would be discharged every hour, or 7']6,441',160 cubic fcoj^ 
 of the entire mass." 
 
 IDarbffi Lovisiana, X. Y.Ed. p. 5G. 
 Page 181, line 19th from the top, for " G. D. C ; W. P." read, G. D. C. ; A. T.G.; 
 and W. P. fee. 
 
 Page 169, line7th from the bottom, for October Zth, lG14;"read, October 12thj 
 1812 ; and bottom line, for read, Kial. 
 
 Page 212, line 4th from top,'for " Mr. Isaac Kihhe,'' read, Mr. Kibbe. Mr. Isaac 
 Kibbe is the brother of the gentleman of that name; who keeps a public iun, ia 
 the town of Buffalo'. 
 
EnpravL-d fcr Darlw's Tina 
 
A TOUR 
 
 FROM NEW-YORK TO DETROIT, 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Jllbany, May Sd, 1SJ.S. 
 
 Beae Sir, 
 
 Amid the violence of wind and rain, I arrived in this 
 city at 5 o'clock this afternoon. Thougii spring has mado 
 sonic advances near New-York, Iicre (he face of nature is 
 n)arke<l witli all (lie bleakness of winter, except snow. At 
 this season, no seenery can exhibit a more di'cary aspect than 
 that of (he Hudson ; naked rocks or precipices, Avith a few 
 leafless forest trees, arc the only objects that in many places 
 meet the eye of (he voyager in passing many miles upon 
 this truly singular river. While (he cold damp wind 
 sweeps along the current, the view of the distant farm houses 
 liave a solitary and even gloomy appearance. 
 
 Perhaps in no equal distance on earth, is (he contrast be- 
 tween the smiles of summer and the frowns of winter, so 
 strong as upon (he Hudson banks between jVew-Y'ork and 
 Albany. I travelled upon both shores of the Hudson river 
 in (he summer of 1816, and visited most places of note on 
 «r near its margin. 
 
 I had then occasion to make a remark I have since found 
 just ; that the arrangements of the Steam-Boats, deprive 
 passengers of the view of much of the richest scenery of 
 4liis interesting region. The passage of (he river, through 
 the Fishkill monntains, is indeed one of the finest landseapcu 
 
 B 
 
AEWllURC. 
 
 [let. I. 
 
 ill North America, ami jet is seen but by very few of those 
 who traverse throiigh its sublime portals, aiul who travel 
 expressly for the purpose of beholding nature in her most 
 attractive garb. In the first instance, travelling by a land 
 conveyance and by slow stages, I had the advantage of bc- 
 boiding tlie various parts ratiier more in detail, than I eonhl 
 have, had I passed by the oi dinary means of the Steam-Boat. 
 As you have imposed upon me the task of relating what I 
 have seen or thought, aad as you have had the kindness to 
 express more csiiujalion for the matter than the manner, I 
 will give a detail of my notes, during my iirst voyage up the 
 Hudson. 
 
 I left the city of New-York, on the afternoon of August 
 :^Oth, 1816; tlie weatlicr was extremely boisterous for the 
 season a strong north wind iriipeded the progress of the 
 Steam-Boat, and as usual, I passed tlic Highlands in the 
 night, and landed about midnight at Newbui'g. 
 
 The morning of the 21st, repaid amply the fatigue of the 
 evening before, the violence of the wind had subsided, the 
 air was serene and cool ; and afforded an excellent opportu- 
 nity to review wiih advantage the fine landscapes in this 
 neighborhood. 
 
 The scite of Newburg is admirably adapted to produce, 
 from a variety of points, the most sti-iking effect that water, 
 hill, dale, asid mountain can give. Kising by rather abrupt 
 acclivity IVom the water, the houses in tlie town appear like 
 the steps of a pair of sfaii's. From a bill to the westward 
 of, and vshich rises above the village, tlie entire adjacent 
 counlry is spread before the eye. The prospect is on all 
 sides extremely picturesque, the fields and farm houses on 
 the east side of the Hudson, «se seen lessening into tlie hor- 
 izon far info Dufeliess towards the borders of Con- 
 necticut. 'J1ie Fishkill mountains rising into bold, though 
 not rugged prominences, and covered wiih trees to (heir 
 summits. But the passage of tlic Hudson river, through 
 the Highlands, is far the most pleasing part of this beauti- 
 
i,.isT. 1.] 
 
 ii 
 
 ful pie'iiire. Tise smooth surfaee of tlie i-ivor silenflj ap- 
 jtroaehing (his confined opening, the projceling rocks appa- 
 rently menacing the ilitfing vessels henea(i), (he diversified 
 gi'oups of trees, the (lisiant view of (he hi'ls of Putnam 
 county, and the soft wliite cloi'ds exiiihiiing their airy forms 
 along (!ie clear blue heaven, furnis a laiidseapi^ that is equal- 
 led by few on earth. 
 
 It is obvious that the Iliulson did not always find its course 
 to flic Atlantic Ocean, through the Fishkiii mountains. The 
 whole face of tiie country, north of that pass, evinces an ex- 
 posure to submersion by water. By either abrasion of a 
 cataract, or disruption by some convulsion of nature, but 
 much more probably the former, the mountain chain has 
 been broken, and the rushing waters found their way to the 
 now New- York Bay.* 
 
 During the aficrnoon of Aug. 21sf , I crossed the river from 
 l^cwburg to Fishkiii landing, enjoyed in the traverse, the 
 -changing view of the narrows, and after landing, turned aud 
 
 * In Dr. S. L. Mitchel's excellent observations upon the Geology 
 of Nortli America, which ai'e attached to Kirk and Mercenr's 
 edition of Cuvier's Theory of tlie Earth, occur the following 
 observations upon the Fislikill mountains. 
 
 " They are composed chiefly of granite and kneiss, abounding 
 in loose nodules and solid veins of mngiictical iron ore. Tlie 
 ividth of the chain may be jated at about sixteen miles. The 
 heicbt of the most elevated peaks, have been ascertained bai-o- 
 metrically by Capt. Alden Partridge, of the corps of Artillerists 
 and Egineers. According to his o!)servatioiis, Butterhill on the 
 west side of the river, is 15 29 feet above tide-water, aiid the new 
 Beacon 1 565 feet. 
 
 " This thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days, to have 
 impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a lake high 
 enough to cover all the country to Quaker bill and the Taconick 
 mountains on the east, aud to the Shawaugunk and the Catskilt 
 niouutainson the west. This lake may be calculated to have ex- 
 tended to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to Hadley's EaliS 
 on the Hudson." — Kirk Sf Mercein\') Cuvier, page 337. . 
 
 A careful review of llie structure of the adjoining country, 
 leaves no reasonable doubt of the correctness of the foregoing 
 ronclusions drawn by this able geologist. 
 
13 
 
 [let. 1. 
 
 liclield the (wo viliagcs of Nevvburg and A'cw-Windsof Iiang- 
 iiig upon the %Tes(cni sJope of tlie opposite shore. I had 
 here agiih) anoflicr opporluiiity of admh'ing the ever varying 
 scenery of this tniiy deiighfiil neighborhood. Often as I 
 h'Avo hdicld \vi(h si sensation of real pleaswre, the setting of 
 an unclouded sun, never i)efore (or since) did I see that lu- 
 minary take his nightly leave of man, ^vitii more serene ma- 
 jesty, or amid so many objects to heiglitcn (he beauty of the 
 scene. Seated upon an elevated bank, in a grove composed 
 of spruce and cedar, I watched the departure of the king of 
 day J the slow and silent advance of darkness, at leugtU 
 siirouded in gioom a pictnre, whose teints can only be for- 
 gotten wiien my bosom ceases to heat. 
 
 Environed by the inassy and sublime monuments reared 
 by the hand of nature, and enjoying tlic softened beauty of 
 such an evening, I could not repress a retrospection upon the 
 inarch of time ; I could not avoid reficc(ing that an epoch 
 did exist, wlien the deiightful valiey in which 1 then sat was 
 an expanse of water ; that the winding and contracting 
 gorge, llircugh which the Hudson now flows, did not exist, 
 or was the scene of another Niagara ; I beiicld the lake 
 disappear, the roar of the cataract bad ceased, l{ie enor- 
 mcus rocky barriers had yield€<l to the impetuous Hood. 
 The river now glides smooth and tranquil, in its passage 
 through this glen, dark and deep. The war of elenienls 
 have subsided. The mountains have apparently separated, 
 and given tlie waters free egress to the ocean. 
 
 In order to have ample means of reviewing this region, to 
 as niucii advantage as possible, I hired a man to convey mc 
 in a sail boat, from Fishkill landing to West-Point ,• and on 
 l!ie morning of the 22d, passed the Narrows with a light 
 wind. A slight mist floated over the highest peaks of the 
 mountains, but beiow the air was clear and pleasant. Ap- 
 proaching tlie most confined part of the passage, (he vast 
 granitic ledges seemed to raise their frowning projections to 
 iiic clouds, the trees upon their summits appear like shrubs. 
 
1>ET. I.] WEST-IMIST. 13 
 
 la the intervening vales or raOicr ravines, (lie lislieriiifin iiiid 
 woodcutCcr have reared (heir l!ii(s j ihe eurliiig smoke is 
 seen issuing from cahins cnibosoiiied amid (hcse rugged 
 roeks. 
 
 Wesl-Point presented i(s structures perched upon a small 
 cape of level land, hut every vvhei-e surrounded hy masses 
 tiiiiJ seemed to uiock time itself. 
 
 I landed, and rose the \vinding path that led to this ever 
 memorable spot a place that was tlie secne of somp of 
 
 * Wiiilst preparing these sheets for publication, the following 
 elegant Hnes appeared in the Cohjtnbian, from the pen of Di-. 
 Vail Geldcr, of New- York. I could not deny my readers the 
 pleasin-e of reading so fine a description of tlie gL-andeur, even 
 in ruiuE, of Fort Putnair. 
 
 ON THE RUINS OP FORT PUTNAM, WEST-POINT. 
 
 Dreary and lone as the scenes that surround thee, 
 Thy battlements rise 'mid the crags of tlie wild, 
 
 Yet dear are thy ruins, for brigiitly around tliee 
 'Twas here the first dawn of our Liberty smil'd. 
 
 But lonciy's thy terrace — thy walls are forsaken, 
 In ruins around thy proud ramparts are low, 
 
 And never again shall tliy cannon awaken 
 The echo that sleeps in the vallies below. 
 
 Silence now reigns thy dark ruins among, 
 
 Where once thrill'd the fife and the war-drum beat loud. 
 
 Now the scream of the eaglet slow gliding .ilong, 
 Alone sends its note from the mists of tlie cloud. 
 
 But where are the heroes whose home once was liere. 
 When the legions of Tyranny peopled our shore — 
 
 Who here rais'd the standard to Freedom so dear. 
 And guarded their home 'mid the battle's fierce roar ? 
 
 They sleep in yon vale— their rude fortress below. 
 Where darkly the shade of the cedai is spread, 
 
 And hoarse through the valley the mountain-winds blow, 
 Where lowly they rest in the sleep of the dead. 
 
 The flowers of the forest have hrighten'd that spot, 
 Tiie wild rose has scatter'd its bloom o'er that ground 
 
 Where lonely they lie — now forgetting — forgot— 
 
 Unawak'd by the mountain-storm thundering around. 
 B2 
 
ii, 
 
 the most remarkable evcnls of oiii- linesjiiallfil rcvoiiition. 
 It was lit-rc lliat Arnold's treachery was met by the stern 
 ■virtue of Washington ; it was near this j)lacc that Andre ex- 
 piated his folly w itli liis life, and gained an immortal name 
 by an ignominious death. 
 
 West-Foint presents bat little (hat can interest tlie travel - 
 ler, except it be the noble scenery of its neighborhood, and 
 events of historical reminiscence. 'Vho barracks of tlie ofli- 
 cers and cadets, with a few scattering houses belonging to 
 individuals, are all the artilieia! improvements worth notico 
 at this establishment. The bank is high, and very abrupt 
 fi'om the surface of the water in the river, to the level of the 
 plain upon which (he barracks and houses are built. 
 
 With considei-ahle fatigue, I scrauibled the mountain 
 to the ruins of Fort Putnam. Silence and delapidalion now 
 i-eign over this once important Fortress. It would be diffi- 
 cult to conceive of a itiore inipregnafde position. Seated 
 upon an elevated mass of granite, the Fort oecnpied almost 
 the entire surface upon which a human foot could he set. 
 A very steep ascent, of more than 500 perpendicular feet, 
 leads from the plain of West-Point to the scite of the Fort, 
 and a deep rock bound valley, separates it from the general 
 juass of the adjacent mountains. A cistern had been hewed 
 out of the solid granite, which was full of water when I 
 visted the spot. Cannon placed upon the walls of this Fort, 
 could rake the entire surface of West-Point ; but I could 
 not perceive any serious opposition it could have presented 
 to the passage of ships of war, ascending or descending the 
 Hudson river. 
 
 The landscape from the ruined battlements of Fort Put- 
 nam, is very interesting. The Fishkill mountains seen 
 from this place, have a much more naked and rude aspect, 
 than from either Newburg or Fishkill landing. Except 
 upon (he opposite shore in Putnam counfy, hut very little hu- 
 man culture enlivens the view. West-Poiat has itself a so!- 
 
iET. I.] 
 
 rOKT-rCTNAM. 
 
 itary appearance, and (o (lie west, noiiglit is seen but ■woods, 
 and mountains, in their primitive \>ildness. 
 
 If seclusion IVom the busy haunts of men, can be of any 
 benefit to the students at West-Point, they enjoy this advan- 
 tage in its fullest exteiit. Isolated upon the couflncd eape, 
 from which the name of the place is derived, the river on 
 one side and towering mountains on the other, an unbroken 
 silence reigns around this seminary. Laoking down from 
 the broken walls of Fort Putnam, Dr. Johnson's Easselas, 
 came strong to recollection. I could not avoid recalling t«> 
 imaginary life, the men who once acted on this little but re- 
 markable theatre. 1 felt a sentiment of awe, amid this bow 
 lonely waste, on recalling to mind tliat here once depended 
 the fate of a new born nation. Kvcn the fallen fragmenis 
 of sfone which once composed part of its butlresscs, inspi- 
 red me wi(h a feeling of respect. Washington, Greene, 
 Putnam, Andre, and Arnold, are no more ; their names 
 have now taken their respective stations in history. The 
 opinion of mankind is formed upon the merits of the three 
 former, and the shame of the tsvo latter. It is now as far 
 beyond the reach of calumny, to t;;rnish tii ' unfading re- 
 nown of a Washington, a Greene, or a Putnam, as it would 
 be for the human hand to level to common earth the enor- 
 mous masses of the Fishkill mountains. 
 
 With slow steps I descended from the grey remains of this 
 venerable pile, and cast a frequent and repeated retiring look 
 towards its mouldering turrets. The shades of evening were 
 setting in, the darkened sides of the distant mountains, seem- 
 ed to mark a sympathetic gloom with that which hung over 
 the deserted Fortress, The busy bum of the students in 
 their evening walks, produced an interesting contrast with 
 the repose ia which rested the surrounding scenery. Such 
 was the events, and the reflection of my day's visit to West- 
 Point. 
 
10 
 
 MAKUFACTtlKES. 
 
 ['let. t. 
 
 On <li(j raoj'iiiiig of the 23(1, 1 again passed with cneieascsl 
 admiration the Ilighhindis, and returned to Fishkill landing. 
 In the afternoon I went to visit the line Faetory of Matc- 
 owan,* owned by Messrs. Schenek's. 
 
 The seenery near Mafeowan is wild, picdiresque, ant! 
 pleasing. Here I first witnessed the effcet, j)rodticed upoo 
 the smaller stpeams which l!ow into the Hudson river, from 
 the high table land from which their sources are derived. 
 Flowing over a surface, elevated many hundretl feet above 
 tide water in the Hudson, the tributary waters of that rivcp 
 all enter by cataracts of more or less elevation. Fishkii!, 
 (Mateowan) commences its fall some distance above Messrs, 
 Selicneiv's factory, giving any desirable facility to the appli- 
 cation of its volume, in the propulsion of machinery. This 
 characteristic is however, genera! to altnost all streams tliaj 
 fall into the Hudson from cither bank, and gives to the iii- 
 liabilants near the borders of that river, a facility in the con- 
 struction of labour-saving machinery, possessed an so large 
 a scale in few, if any other parts of the earth. 
 
 If it was possible for American industry to contend, in the 
 present order of things, successfully against European mo- 
 nopoly, the banks of tlie Hudson could become two exicnd- 
 ed lines of manufacturing establishments ; but our native 
 exertions wither in the presetico of foreign cosnmeree and 
 perverted taste. Nature is slowly asserting her righ(s in 
 opposition to absurdly eontiaocd custom. If habit had made 
 us familiar with sending our wheat, to be converlci! into 
 Jlour in English mills, we would now consider bread made 
 from this native grain and foreign machinery, in I he same 
 favourable degree of preference, we now give to muslins 
 made in Europe, from Carolina aud Georgia cotton. 
 
 * Mateowau is the Indian name of Fishkill. No nations, per-- 
 liaps that ever existed, gave more sonorous names to places, tliais 
 the native savages of North America. It is much to be regretted 
 lhat i.lieii' noineuclatare had not been mote generally preserved. 
 
lET. I.] 
 
 TIMISER. 
 
 17 
 
 Above Fislikill the country assumes a hiUy and rocky, 
 but not mountainous aspect. The sirata are ineSincd in 
 jieai'Jy parallel direction (o tiie Catskiil niountains. Soitm 
 limestone occurs. The getsoral struelui'c of (he hills is, 
 Iiowevcr, micii slate. The soil does not cxhibii a foi'Sile ap- 
 pearance in general, (hough Dolehess county has been i'aiu- 
 cd ibr its productive crops. 'Hiis character I bcncve just 
 as respests orchai'ds and tsieady.vs. Too much of (he laud 
 is cleared. A soarcify of liraber strikes the eye of tfae 
 tpavellef at eveiy s(ep, and the trees which exist have a 
 stinted appearance.* 
 
 * The following extract demonstrates that improvident waste 
 of timber, and neglect to supply daily consumption, is not con- 
 fined to Dutchess county. Error, Iiowevcr, gains nothing but 
 notoriety from its extent. 
 
 '■' The Dulie of Athol is now enjoying the benefit which pro- 
 vident ancestors sometimes confer upon their heirs. His Grace's 
 estates have been hitherto considered as rather extensive, than 
 productive ; but !iis forests have now attained to such a o]-owti-,, 
 that, we understand, he will be able to cut timber to the amount 
 of 20,0001. a year, v/c may say almost in perpetuity, as lie has 
 continued the practice of his noble father, and planted millions 
 of trees annually."' 
 
 In reading the above article, we coukl not suppress a feel- 
 ing of regret at the evident contrast presented in tlie conduct 
 of the Duke of Athol's '■provident ancestor," to the impi'ovi- 
 dence of landholders generally in tliis country. The deciease 
 of timber for building, fuel, &c. is already a great inconvenience, 
 and is eveiy day becoming more serious in the prospects growing 
 out of it. The evil is not so much in the use or consumption of 
 the timber, (although that may be unnecessarily extravagant) but 
 in the. utter neglect which appears every wliere to prevail, of re- 
 pairing the devastation, by planting new trees, and taking care 
 of the young growth. Observation has convinced us, that in no 
 part of the country is its neglect more apparent, than in the low- 
 er parts of Delaware, and tlic adjacent parts of Maryland. We 
 mention this district of country particulai'ly, because in travelling 
 over if, (wc allude especially to the country called the Level.':, 
 and on the Eohetnia, and .Sassafi as l ivers,) wc were struck with, 
 its fine appeai-ance, in soil, its fine streams, and its easy access t« 
 market. It is probable to this last circumstance that the evi^ 
 complained of may in some part, be attributed ; the high price 
 
IS 
 
 [let. t' 
 
 In aii (he exlcnt of settled couiid^ within the United 
 States, two epoolis have preceded each other in the progress 
 of agrieiiltiire. In the first epoch, immense extent of land 
 is cleared of tiie liiiiber, and the soil rather tortured than 
 cultivated. This lasts until the impoverished fields and ruin- 
 ed forests, oblige the farmers to commence the second epoch. 
 Tliey now come to the point fi om which they ought to have 
 set out. They now cultivate a mare limifed extent, but tliaS 
 extent by manure and a careful routine of crops, becomes 
 
 of timber at Baltimore Iiaving induced the proprietors or tenants 
 to apply the axe ivith so devastating a hand, tliat the country is 
 ahiiost bare of timber, and no elibt-ts seem to have been adopted 
 to supply the waste. Tiie consequence of this destructive habit is, 
 that the best land in the peninsula, and as good as any in the coun- 
 try, with all its advantages from fine navigable streams will not 
 sell for more than 15, 20, or 25 dollars per acre, in addition to 
 llie inconvenience arising from a deficiency of fuel, and timber 
 tbr building. It may be said, that the tenures by wliicii real pro- 
 perty is held in this country, and its frequent circulation from 
 i'.and to hand, presejit an obstacle to any ])lans of permanent im- 
 provement, that farniej-s do not like to expend money, the pro- 
 fits of v.'Iiich are to be enjoyed by po.^terity. 
 
 We would regret to see such an objection seriously urged, in- 
 volving as it does a censure upon the freedom of our institutions, 
 which are intimately connected with the proper circulation and 
 cquiiization of real property. We suggest the subject to the 
 agricultural society of this county, as a proper one for their con- 
 sideration, if they will encourage the planting of forest trees, and 
 .support it witli tlieir examples, it will have a good efiect. Tlie 
 price of land will be undoubtedly inci'eased, and the interests of 
 agriculture advanced. 
 
 There is one fact of which the society mnst be aware ; that 
 in this country and the peninsula generally, it is the custom with 
 farmers to sow or cultivate a much greater quantitj' of land than 
 they can properly manage ; a consequence of which is that a 
 great deal of good land is thrown away ; producing about one 
 third or one fourth of wliat it would if properly mamired and at- 
 tended to. If, therefore, many of our farmers would limit their 
 industry to the cultivation of one half or one third of their usual 
 quantity of land, they would economize their labour greatly, cul- 
 tivate their lands much belter, produce a greater quantity of grain 
 and grass, and the surplus would remain for tlie projiagation of 
 timber." — Delaware Watchman. 
 
tET. i.] 
 
 DUTCHESS COfSTT. 
 
 ±9 
 
 annually more and more prodiwtive. It would no doubt 
 have resiiKcd, from the gi-cat labour and expense of clear- 
 ing land, that farmers would have commenced bj making 
 the hi'st use of small CBclosiires, if agriciiiiin e had been un- 
 derstood selentiiicallj'. That was not formerly' the ease any 
 where in the United States, and now only in few places. It 
 is pleasing to see even the gerin of a belter system. Agri- 
 cuhiire is improving ; our eiiizens bet-in to learn that their 
 fields may be made more profitable, and less expensive. 
 
 Dutchess counly is about 45 miles long north and soisth, 
 ■amX twenty-five miles in breadth east and west, from Con- 
 necticut line to the Hudson river. This county at present, ex- 
 tends over an area of very nearly 800 sfjuare miles. Jiutch- 
 ess was formerly more extensive, the townships souih of the 
 Fishkill mountains, Philipstown, Kent, Paierson, Southeast, 
 and Carmcl, were in the Legislative session of 1812 erected 
 into a separate county, and named Pulnam. By the census 
 of 1810, the entire county ol Dutchess, possessed a popula- 
 tion of 51,*1'2, but of this amount the now eounty of Put- 
 liani contained 8,482 persons ; leaving in Dutchess a iit tt 
 amount of 42,930. This divided by 800, yields 53,6+ !o (he 
 square mile, a very (bin population ; yet the county is per- 
 haps more than two thirds cleared of wood j and if so, al- 
 loAving the population to be now 60 to the square mile, would 
 average more than seven acres of open land to each individ- 
 jial. 1 am well convinced this caleulaiion is by no iiicans 
 overrated near the Hudson, or indeed in any part of the 
 county. The great distances between (he houses, aiid Ihe 
 ■wide sweep of tlie fields and meadows, give the coun(ry a 
 lonely appearance. 
 
 Eight miles above Fishkill, Wappinger's creek falls in(a 
 the Hudson. The latter is a much m()ie considerable 
 stream than the former, but are sinsilar in tuii.bling over el- 
 evated ledges of rock, previous to joining the Hudson 
 
 Where the road passes Wappinger's creek, some mills am! 
 other machinery have been erected. The road crosses the 
 
40 W Al'l'ISOEli's CHEEK. [I'KT. I. 
 
 creek hy a substauliiil wooden bridge, over nearly liic mid- 
 dle of the fall. The volume of water was considerable, even 
 when I passed it, though a long dearth had preceded my 
 journey. The white surge dashing impeftioiisly over the 
 shelving roeks, and amongst the wheels of the difterent wa- 
 ter works, produced a fine effect. This place affords a pleas- 
 ing variety on this road. 
 
 Above Wappinger's creek, the face of the country be- 
 eomcs more uniforin, and (he soil assumes a less rude aspect 
 than between the creek and the now rccedisig Highlands. 
 
 Many points of rising ground, pres«'nt very extensive and 
 beautiful landscape views. The Highland, Shawangunk, and 
 Catskill mountains, ai-e ailernately and often all visible from 
 the same place. The Hudson can somctinses be seen glitfci'- 
 ing low in the deep vale, through which it flows. Here in 
 many places, appear the vestiges of the ancient lake, which 
 filled the region above the Highlands. Independent of the 
 mountains, the liiHs which once bounded this sheet of water, 
 arc distinctly discernible to the east and vvest. These hills 
 are about 30 miles separate, (ho intermediate space was the 
 breadth of the lake, giving it, though on a larger scale, the 
 general characteristic of the yet existing lakes Chaniplaisi 
 and George. 
 
 Vicwitig a map of Orange, Ulster and Dutchess counties, 
 a singular fact in the geology of the region they occupy, oh- 
 Irudcs itself to observation. The water courses on the west 
 side of the Hudson, in Orange and Ulster, flow considerably 
 north of east, and enter (hat river very obliquely. This is 
 the case with the streams of Wallkiii, Eondout, and Esopus. 
 In Dutchess, Fishkill, Wappinger's, and o'.hcr creeks, run 
 south of east, in very nearly parallel courses, but contrary 
 direcSions to those which enter by the opposite bank. 
 
 The elevated table land from which all these streams (Ic- 
 rive their sources, lies apparently nearly on a general level, 
 and fursBS a valley, which crosses the Hudson in the direc- 
 tion of the water courses. Are we not justiilablc in conchi- 
 
XET. I.] 
 
 POUGIIKEEPSIE. 
 
 I 
 
 21 
 
 ding that this was once the course of the lake discharge ? 
 By -what process of nature did the Hudson scoop its present 
 channel, so far hcncatli the hottom of this former inland 
 sea, so far even beneath the level of Die ocean, and through 
 a continuous mass of rock ? If you can answer this query, 
 if you can explain this piienomcnon, you will do me and the 
 world'a favor. I am unablo to even conjecture the process 
 of tliis mighty, this unequalled work. 
 
 Poughkeepsie, the seat of justice for Dutchess county, 
 stands upon the table land of the Hudson, sixteen miles from 
 Fishkill. I arrived here in the afternoon of lhe2Sth Aug. 
 and on the morning of tho 26th, took an extensive ramble 
 over its streets and environs. The town is in the form of a 
 cross, the two princij)al streets crossing each other nearly 
 at right angles. The houses are scattered, and the inter- 
 vening spaces planted with trees. A- road leads down a long, * 
 steep, and in many places very abrupt hill, from Poughkeep- 
 sie to the landiflg, on the Hudson river. This cii-cumstance 
 subjects the inhabitants to great inconvenience. The oppo- 
 site shore is broken, rocky, barren and desolate. Tiio town 
 contains at present about 2000 inhabitants. The houses have 
 a decent plainness in their exterior, a character they have no 
 doubt received from the moral taste of the inhabitants. I 
 have visited few places, where a more mild, conciliating de- 
 portment was observed to the stranger. 
 
 Some manufactures are eslabiislied in Poughkeepsie,- the 
 principal of which, is that of Messrs, Booth's woollen cloth 
 manufactory. Some very beautiful and very excelient cloth 
 has been made at this establishment. It is now contending 
 like all similar works in the United States, with high wages, 
 enhanced price of raw material, European competition, and 
 long established public prejudice in favor of foreign produc- 
 tions. 
 
 Except the inconsistency of their opinions and conduct, 
 nothing can be more idle, than the expressions you may now 
 hear in every conversation in our country, upon domestic 
 
POUGllIiLEEI'slE. 
 
 Inanufactared goods of any kind. " Encourage the framerS 
 of our own products. 1 prefer to see my neighbors dres- 
 " scd in home madeelolh. The day we trust is not far dis- 
 " taut when we ean put European nations at defiance. Our 
 " necessities will be supplied at home." A thousand sueh 
 (leelaraaiions may he lieard in every assembly of people, and 
 in many instances, net one yard of home made clothing 
 could be found upon the whole company. 
 
 This is not, however, the only inslance, where theory and 
 practice are at variance in the affairs of mankind. 
 
 Siepping into a Bookstore in Poughkeepsie, I was led to 
 make a reflection I have often made before. Bookstores 
 afford, particularly in small villages and country places, the 
 best data, from which can be calculated the state of public 
 Jit'erary iiiiprovenient. Booksellers, like other merchants, 
 are regulated in their importations by the taste of their cus- 
 to'iUers. 
 
 In largs cities, where seliools, colleges, and other estah" 
 litihraents for (he proreotion of general instruction, exist on 
 a large scale, almost all kinds of books are found in Book- 
 stores ; but in remote country villages few boolts are offer- 
 ed for sale, except those of daily demand. 
 
 After school books, the most common are religious tracts 
 of different kinds, published for the use of the various sects 
 which inhabit the country ; tiiese, with a few of the most 
 popular novels, form the mass of the volumes upon the 
 shelves of the village bookseller. 
 
 Works on general science are rare, and even treatises upon 
 political economy, (except pamphlets upon daily occurren- 
 ces, mostly persona!) are not often seen beyond the limits of 
 our large comjiiercia! cities. 
 
 In (he United Slates, the most useful of all human read- 
 ing, lusTOitv, is neglected. The most prominent events of 
 their own country, are known to but comparatively few of 
 our citizens. British history lias shared tiie most attention 
 from our readers., but even that heterogeneous and eonfiieting 
 
asET. 1.] 
 
 HStlNEBECK. 
 
 23 
 
 suly'ect, they generally but superricially liinlerstand. Tiiougli 
 it may bo doubted wJicther tJic reading of history, tends to 
 produce all the beneficial results, usually expected to flow 
 from that species of literature ; yet it is in history alone, 
 that the treasured experience of our race is recorded. It is 
 true tliat lessons of experience, when not taught by physi- 
 cal suffering, are seldom vei-y profoundly remembered, or 
 correctly acted upon. It is also true, tliat though (he im- 
 pressions made upon our minds by Ihe virtue or crimes, (he 
 wisdom or folly of others, are slight and transient, in ^ ratio 
 of distance from the scenes of our own personal cares yet 
 salutary impressions are made, and liberal opinions contract- 
 ed, from reading the events of nations that exist no more, as 
 well as from those which concern the most remote people 
 upon our planet. 
 
 August 27th, I left Pouglikeepsie early in the morning ; 
 a shower in the preceding night had given freshness to the 
 air. Proceeding along the road towards Hhiiicbeck, I found 
 the country extremely pleasant. A turnpike road has been 
 made from Pougbkeepsie 11 miles ,• the surface of the 
 ground uneven rather than hilly. A few miles from Pougb- 
 keepsie the table land becomes more flat, and in some places 
 so much so, as to resemble the bottom of a large river. 
 Rhinebeck stands upon one of those elevated plains, is built 
 in the Dutch taste ; all the houses have a comfortable, and 
 a few an elegant exterior ; they are interspersed with orch- 
 ards, meadows, grain fields and gardens. To U!--, no object 
 is more satisfactory than these scattered villages, where ev- 
 ery species of cultivation seem blended. In large cities, the 
 great field and rich meitd are banished, to make way for the 
 various objects of luxury and commerce ; but in these rural 
 villages, enough remains of rude nature to recal the mind to 
 the ages of primitive simplicity, whilst enough is created by 
 art to gratify the wants of civilized man. 
 
 In ascending towards the north from the Highlands, along 
 the elevated plains of the ILulson, as the Fishkil! inoniitaiR* 
 
34 
 
 ItlNGSTON, 
 
 arc ilepi'Cbscd hy rcyession, those of Catskill rise from ap- 
 proach. The latfcr diaiii presents a bold and imposing 
 front from llhinehcck. liising in mnjcsty their blue tops, 
 and graduiiiiy sloping sides, arc pecuiiiirly pleasing to the 
 cje, wliilst their pvriuiiihil form evince a duration, comaien- 
 snrate with time itscJf. Tlie village of Rhinebcck stands 
 near two miles from the margin of flic Hudson, with, as usu- 
 al, a high rocky intervening bank. From llliinebeck vil- 
 lage the ground falls rapidly. When the river is approach- 
 ed, a wild and picturesque landscape opens ; the west bank 
 of the Hudson is rugged and extremely broken ; the Cats- 
 kill mountains rise upon the back ground, and terminate with 
 their rounded cones the distant view. The road from 
 Rhinebeek ferry, winds up the western steeps of the Hud- 
 son, anud broken fragments of rock. The eminences are 
 clothed with pine, cedar and oak ; evey object announces 
 sterility. ]Vo!hing is seen, that can give the slightest anti- 
 cipation of the fertile and beautiful valley of Esopus, into 
 which, a ride of three miles from the Hudson river carries 
 the traveller. 
 
 I do not remember to have ever enjoyed a more agreeable 
 surprize, or to have seen a transition more rapid, than in 
 passing from the sterile and shapeless summits of the Hud- 
 son hills, to the fine and extended plain, upon which stands 
 the romantic village of Esopus or Kingston. This little, but 
 interesting town, recals to mind some memorable events of 
 the revolutionary war. Its inhabitants were amongst the 
 first and most zealous opposers of British aggression, in the 
 then colony of New-York, and of course marked for vcn- 
 geaiice by the oiTicers of the crown, who commanded on 
 the Kew-York station. In the summer of 1777, while Gen. 
 Burgoync was penetrating from the north towards Albany, 
 a Eritisii squadron ascended the Hudson river from New - 
 York, and landed a body of troops near the mouth of the 
 Wailkiil, wlio marched to, and burnt the defenceless village 
 of Kingston. 
 
lET. I.] 
 
 KrJfGSTOI*, 
 
 Tlie inliaWfants had but a few inonieuls' iuformatioii of 
 the approach of their enemj', before tlieir actual arrival. 
 A tumultuous flight enaued, and before quitting the view of 
 their dwellings, the smoke of tiie fire that devoured them 
 ascended (o heaven. The consequence of (his act of biind 
 rage, was just what common sense would have expected ; a 
 more inveterate opposition to the British gover-nment. To 
 feelings of revolutionary enthusiasm, was added personal 
 resentment. Some of the s(onc walls still remain, to attest 
 the destructive scene. Most of the houses then burned* 
 have long since been repaired or re-built ; but a few stand 
 untouched ^ their mouldering remains, force (he imagination 
 to retrace the lapse of thirty-nirte years, aiid amid the smok- 
 ing ruins of their once happy homes, behold the mournful 
 visages of (he returning inhabitants^ behold them turning 
 an eye of vengeance after (he destroyers of (heir property. 
 An inscription upon (he end of the village church, records 
 this deed of barbarism, this day of mourning, the lith of 
 October, 1777. The hour of vengeance was indeed near ; 
 three days after, Burgoyne and his army surrendered pris- 
 oners of war at Saratoga. The pride of the spoiler was 
 turned to defeat, mortification and disgrace. 
 
 Time and industry have here effaced the ravages of war. 
 Few, if any villages in theUnited States, presen( a( (his mo- 
 ment, an air of more domestic comfort, plenty and ease^ 
 than does Kingston. The houses are scattered, and gener- 
 ally built after (he old Dutch taste, low, with few windows, 
 and those small. Some more modern dwellings, are excep- 
 tions to the common mode, being constructed with an ele- 
 gance and convenience equal to the houses of any of our 
 country towns. 
 
 Kingston stands upon an elevated and extensive plain, be- 
 tween the Rondout and Esopus creeks. Confining the view 
 to the site of the (own and ad jacent country, the traveller 
 would suppose himself on the alluvion of a river. He is so 
 m fact, the plain is a complete accretion, formed by the an- 
 
 ti 
 
KINGSTON. 
 
 [let. 1. 
 
 dent state of tlie country, and by the neigliboi-ing streams. 
 The soil is sandy, but extremely fertile and well cultivated 5 
 the meadows and orchards arc numerous atid excellent. I 
 had no means to ascertain with precision, the elevation of 
 the Kingston plain above the Jevel of (ide water in the Hud- 
 son, but carefully examining the ground, along which the 
 intervening road winds, should be led to believe that the dif- 
 ference of level, must exceed three hundred feet. Though 
 16 miles distant, the Catskill mountains, from their eleva- 
 tion, seem to be much ncai"erj and give to Kingston an ap- 
 pearance of lying low, though standing upon ground so 
 much above the surface of Hudson river. 
 
 In making the tour of this part of the United States, no 
 traveller ought to pass wiihout visiting Kingston, and every 
 stranger will iie pleased with the soft beauty of ils scenery, 
 with its retired situation, and with the plain but affable man' 
 ners of ils inhabitants. 
 
 August 29th, I left Kingston, and iti the evening of tint 
 same day arrived in Hudson. It is along this part of the 
 Hudson, that the Catskill mountains can be seen to most 
 advantage. Their august cones seem almost to rise from 
 the river though eight or ten miles distant.* 
 
 * The following statement of the heights of ttiountains on the 
 Hudson river, were calculated by Capt. Partridge, and are deem- 
 ed correct. 
 
 ilighlands. 
 
 Antl)on}''s Nose, 935 I'et-t, Sugar Loaf, 866 feet, 
 Bare Mount, 1350 feet, Bull Hill, 1484 feet, 
 
 Crow's Nest, 1418 feet, Break Neck, 1187 feet, 
 
 Butter Hill, 1529 feet, Old Beacon, 1471 feet, 
 
 New Beacon, 1535 feet, W. Point Plain, 188 feet. 
 Fort Putnam, 598 feet, 
 
 Catskill Mountains. 
 Round Top, 3105 teet, High Peak, 3019 feet. 
 
 Below JVew-York. 
 Keversink Heights, - - - - - 282 feet, 
 Staten Island, 307 feet, 
 
 Hempstead Harbour Hill, - . - - 319 feet. 
 
 {J^ewhurg Political Indeje-l 
 
lET. I.J 
 
 CITT OV UlTDSOSr. 
 
 Concealed by the peninsula, between the Hudson aJid 
 Catskill creek, but a small part of the town of Catskill can 
 be seen from the river. As I desired to see all the towns 
 near the margin of the Hudson, I determined to return to 
 Catskill, before ascending to the north of the town of Hud- 
 son. 
 
 This latter Village has a prosperous appearance ; its site 
 is the most favorable to connect the adjacent country to the 
 river, of any town on the Hudson, between New-York and 
 Troy. The situation of Hudson is pleasant, rising first by 
 a steep bank of SO or 60 feet, and tiience gradually from 
 the bank. That part of the town wliieh approaches the wa- 
 ter, stands upon a peninsula projecting considerably into the 
 river, and affording a very fine view both to the north and 
 south, particularly the former. On the opposite shore 
 stands the village of Athens, in Greene county. The latter 
 town rises like Tfewburg, though less abrupt from the water 
 edge ; every house and the adjacent farms can be seen at one 
 view, from the bank of the Hudson. Athens Ss small, and 
 no great prospect exists of any augmentation of conse- 
 quence. The Schoharie turnpike road leaves the Hudson 
 river at Athens, and following the valley of Catskill along 
 its north side, penetrates the interior of New-Yoi'k, by 
 winding round the Catskill mountains. I'lie Susquehanna 
 turnpike road leaves the Hudson at tiie town of Catskill, and 
 following the south side of the creek of that name, runs 
 
 When I passed the same part of the fhidson on my iast tour, 
 (May 3(1, 1818,) the Catskill mountains were covered witli snow, 
 apparently almost to their base. This latter circnmstaiice, was 
 however, no doubt a deception in vision, as many of the hills 
 near the fludson bank, are five or six hundred feet high, and the 
 snow had now disappeared fjom their summits. The whole 
 country had, however, the dreary marks of winter. Scarce a 
 new born leaf announced the approach of spring. The air was 
 cold, chilly, and moist. The mountains of Berkshire, in Massa- 
 chusetts, and the Green mountains in Vei'morit, appeared far oil 
 the N. E. horizon, also white with snow. 
 
5l8 
 
 NEIGHBORIKQ SCENEKT. 
 
 I,ET. I. 
 
 nearly parallel to the Schohai'ie vo;i*l, and like it leads 
 ihrough Greene coiintj, info the central parts of the state. 
 These roads reniler Hudson a thoroughfare from the 
 New England states, for emigrants passing to the north part 
 of Pennsylvania, and (he contiguous part of Kew-York. 
 
 A ridge of Innd, rocky, precipitous, and generally very 
 barren, follows both banks of llie Hudson river, occasionally 
 interrupted. Behind these ridges and parallel to them, lies 
 two broken valleys of more or less width. All the towns 
 upon this singular river, are placed upon the interruptions 
 of these ridges. Hudson is a remarkable example. I have 
 already noticed the peninsula, which forms tlie port of Hud- 
 son. This peninsula is bounded on the north by a bay, ter- 
 minated by clay bluffs, which are yielding to the action of 
 the water ; and on the south extends another bay, which 
 gradually shallows, and ends in a deep morass. South of 
 tliis swamp rises a very high hill, the north abutment of one 
 of the ridges I have already noticed. Behind the town of 
 Hudson, to the eastward, the ground rises into considerable 
 elevation, overlooking from its summit a vast expanse of 
 <^ountry, including the towns of Hudson and Athens ; the 
 j'iver for many miles ; its variegated shores, and perhaps 
 the best prospect that exists of the Catskill mountains. To 
 point out the charming views included in this elegant pic- 
 ture, would be to describe every hill, dale and slope within 
 i(s limits. In every direction to which the eye can be turn- 
 ed, a new and elegant landscape opens, and presents its 
 beauties, its character of distinctive attraction, and an out- 
 line that renders it a little whole in itself. 
 
 It may indeed be considered as peculiar to the Hudson 
 scenery, that almost all the variety that the face of the earth 
 can aiford. is often condensed into a compass of very limited 
 extent. Environed by cliffs, crowned with dwarf oak, pine 
 and cedar, the traveller often finds a projecting bank, some- 
 times rising bold, rude and rocky ; at others, swelling above 
 the wave in rounded prominences. Upon such banks, are 
 
I,ET. 1.] 
 
 IfElGUBOEIH'G SCBWEIU'. 
 
 built many of the finest country seats in tlie United States ; 
 and if a variegated country can give gratification to refined 
 taste, there are few places on eartli where summer can be 
 enjoyed witli more delight. In passing the Hudson, it is in 
 the higliest degree pleasing, to view those edifices amid so 
 many natural contrasts. From the city of New-York this 
 elegant variety greets the voyager, above the highlands it 
 becomes more frequent and striking, and in no extent of the 
 Hudson river, does its peculiar traits arrest attention with 
 more force, than near the town of Hudson. The second day 
 after my arrival in the neighborhood, I traversed the road 
 from Hudson to Columbiaville, near the mouth of Kinder- 
 hook. The road follows the dividing ridge between the eas- 
 tern branch of Kinderhook creek and (he Hudson river, and 
 in many places, commands very extensive views of the sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 At one glance is often seen the majestic Hudson, i(s ever 
 varied hanks, the fleeting sail, apparently mingling with the 
 farm houses, and above and beyond this soft picture of peace- 
 ful industry, rises the blue ridges of the distant mountains. 
 
 Near the mouth of Kinderhook, commences a very striking 
 change in the physiognomy of the banks of the Hudson ; the 
 hills are less abrupt, and the bottoms are now more extensive 
 than farther soudi. The soil presents no very striking dif- 
 ference from that found in the interval between this place and 
 Ihc Higlilands ; but the general aspect of the country as- 
 sumes a new character. Though still broken, the face of 
 the country on both bants, is more uniform than the surface 
 of eitiier Dutchess, Orange, or Greene counties. 
 
 Kinderhook Creek is formed from two branches, the Cla- 
 verack, and the Kinderhook properly so called. I'lie for- 
 mer rises in the township of Hillsdale in Columbia county, 
 and running first east, gradually turns south and south-west, 
 and approaching within three or four miles of that river, fin- 
 ally assumes a northern course, forming in all its course, a 
 isemi-ellipse of about thirty miles in length. Kindorliook 
 
[let. I. 
 
 rises in the township of Berlin, in Rensselaer eouuty, and 
 pursuing a course south or south-east, in very nearly an op- 
 posite diiection, joins the Claveraek ahout one uiilo and a 
 half from the Hudson ; the united stream unites with that 
 river, after being precipitated over considerable ledges of 
 transition slate. The curious structure of this country ap- 
 pears from the circumstance, that the Jansens or Ancrani 
 creek, rising also in Hillsdale, winds round the Claveraek, at 
 seven or eight miles distance from the latter stream. The 
 courses of, indeed, nearly all the water courses in this neigh- 
 bourhood, have a correspondence, approaching the regulari- 
 ty of iivi ; their position must have be;'n determined by 
 some general cause, some operation of nature, common to a 
 considerable extent of country. It preserves, however, so 
 much of the general character of the Hudson hanks, as 1q 
 present a more broken surface near, than at a distance from 
 thai river. 
 
 Where the road from Hudson to Albany crosses Kinder- 
 Look creek, a line wooden bridge was erected a few year* 
 past. Within a few paces below the bridge, on the south side 
 of the creek, the Messrs. Jenkins' of Hudson, have a fine 
 merchant mill, and directly opposite the mill, stands a large 
 cotton factory. During the last war a little village rose 
 around tiiis factory, inhabited by weavers, spinners and oth- 
 er workmen. It is now languishing like other similar es- 
 tablishments, and from like causes. 
 
 The creek rolls over different ledges of rock, under and 
 above the bridge, which produces the fall of water necessary 
 to propel the machinery below. The tide flows up to the 
 mill and factory. The adjacent country is hilly, particular- 
 ly south of the creek. The works lie so low that the trav- 
 eller is within a few paces before he can perceive their posi- 
 tion ; and when viewing them from the south bank, cannot 
 but be pleased with the JBral features of the place. P'roni 
 the eminence above the mill, can be seen the fine farm antl 
 seat of Mr. Eobcrt Livingston, upon the poi»t of land be* 
 
XKT. I.] COIUMBIAVIXLB. 3i 
 
 tween the Biouth of Kinderhook creek and Hudson river, the 
 opposite shores rising gently from the water, and retiring 
 far into the distant landscape, in the township of Coxaekie. 
 Turning the view a little morefo the south, rises the highest 
 peaks of CatsUill mountains, in the township of Windham. 
 
 The south side of the little bay, made by Kinderhook 
 creek, is steep and in many places precipitous, clothed with 
 timber and underwood, its scenery is romantic and solitary; 
 I had the good fortune to be kindly and hospitably treated, 
 by Mr. Marks Barker and his family, w ho reside near this 
 seductive spot. In company willi those innocent and friendly 
 people, and the sweet companion of my life and of this 
 journey, I traversed those wilds. Within a few paces of the 
 cultivated farm, or '• busy mill," we might have imagined 
 ourselves transported to the abodes of primeval -silence ; 
 we could have conceived ourselves carried back to the .primi- 
 tive ages, when cultivation had neither disfigured or adorn- 
 ed (he face of the earth. Many of the dells, dark and deep, 
 overshadowed with oaks, pine, cedar and maple, seemed to 
 have never before been visited by human beings ; the turn 
 of a step dispelled this illusion, by disclosing the gay aspect 
 of the garden, orchard, field and meadow. 1 had before 
 ranged over many of the most uncultivated and unvisited 
 parts of this continent . I had often seen the rapid change, 
 from the savage waste to the highly decorated abode of civ- 
 ilized roan, but I do not remember to have been, ever be- 
 fore, so strongly impressed with the contrast. The scenes 
 were before me in all their majesty. The whole contour, 
 shading, and parts of one of the most finely blended pictures 
 in nature, was open to view. It was a day 1 can only forget 
 when I cease to exist. It was enjoyed amid objects that 
 now retain in my mind all their force of recollected interest. 
 And it is a spot that the traveller may again, and again l e- 
 visit, and never cease to admire. 
 
 August 30th, with great reluctance I left Columbiaville j 
 (lie name given to the little establishment on Kinderhook, 
 
[XET. I.. 
 
 and reUiined through Hudson and Alhens, to Catskill. 
 Like Columbiaville, CatskiJl stands upon the bay or mouth 
 of a large creek, surrounded, overshadowed and almost con- 
 cealed by hills. The latter town is apparently flourishing 
 and commercial, having a rich and well cultivated country 
 along Catskill, to support its prosperity. It was with pain I 
 ■was obliged, from the nature of my private concerns, to 
 forego the pleasure of visiting the vicinity of Catskill town. 
 Jfroni the alpine nature of part of this region, from the 
 Ijeauty and variety of aspect it presented to my eye, when 
 seen from the fludson hills, and from all the descriptions of 
 its features, that I have seen, I am confident I lost much, in 
 not being able to range over its plains and mountains. There 
 is no doubt, but that this is one of the most interesting 
 tr acts in the United Slates, and perhaps the one where the 
 strongest contrasts can be found in the shortest space. All 
 the variely of soil, and formation from primitive granite to 
 the most recent alluvion, can be examined here in less than 
 one day. 
 
 A good statistical and geological description of Green© 
 county, would present many of the noblest features of the 
 United Slates to view. The mouth of Catskill creek lies 
 level with the Atlantic tides, and the most elevated of the 
 Catsbergs in Windham, rises to about 3500 feet. Between 
 these extremes, how immense the variety of vegetable pro- 
 duction ; perhaps the mineral kingdom would not be less 
 productive, if as accessible to human research. 
 
 In this region, the traveller now finds some scenes of sub-, 
 lime interest. " The round-top, is found to be elevated 
 « 3655 feet above the level of the river ; the high-peakj 
 
 34S7. These summits are in Windham, Greene county, 
 « about 20 miles west of Hudson, and in full view from that 
 «< city. A turnpike road which crosses this range of moun-- 
 «' tains, near these summits, winds up mitil it reaches the 
 
 astonishing altitude of ^274 feet ; and from tliis spot th<i 
 
iET. I.] 
 
 KATERSKIlt: 
 
 S3 
 
 " view is inexpressibly grand."* This is the iiighcst road 
 in the United States, exceeding by far in elevation any of 
 the passes of the Allegany chain, south of this place. 
 
 In this alpine region, exists also, one of the most interest- 
 ing cataracts in Nortli America ; not from the mass of wa- 
 ter, but from the pei'pendieular descent of the stream, and 
 peculiar structure of the adjacent country. It is a curiosi- 
 ty but little known beyond the neighborhood where it exists, 
 thouglj within a very short distance;, of the mountain road I 
 have already noticed, <« The high fall of the Katerskill is 
 " about half a iflile from this road, near the summit of the 
 f« mountain and twelve miles from Catskill. The stream 
 i' arises from two small ponds, one quarter of a mile apart, 
 «' and runs gently two miles, where it breaks over a rocky 
 f precipice of 310 feet, perpendicular height. "f The 
 mountains arc inhabited to their summits, enabling travel- 
 lers who visit thepi, to And aecojnmodatioTi in their most ele- 
 vated valleys. 
 
 My time spent in the vicinity of Catskill, was too short 
 to gratify my own curiosity, or to collect extensive informa- 
 tion on local subjects. The general outline was all I could 
 examine, and even that imperfectly. I saw enough to ex- 
 cite a regret, I can only eradicate by returning under cir- 
 cumstances, which will enable me to remain long enough to 
 ascend the highest moiintajn, and range the lowest valley in 
 this diversified tract. 
 
 September 4th, I set out from Hudson for Albany. A- 
 bove the village of Columbiaville, the road follows the val- 
 ley of the Kindcrhook creek. The country in many places 
 level ; so much so, as to remind me often of even Louisiana, 
 This recollection was, however, only momentary | high 
 rocky hills appearing to the eastward at short intervals. 
 The flourishing village of Kiaderhook, stands upon the allu- 
 
 * SpafTord's Gazetteer, page 9. . 
 t Spaiford's Gpzelteer, page 330, 
 
Si 
 
 KINDERHOOIC. 
 
 [lET. I. 
 
 vial banlis of the creek of the same name, twelve miles 
 above Hudson. Above Kinderliook village, commences a 
 body of level land, covered in its native slate with pine, 
 limber. This tract affords a very remarkable instance qf the 
 revolutions, to which the price of landed property is subject. 
 I was informed on the spot, that about thirty years ago, this 
 pine land was considered of so little value, as to render its 
 possession onerous to the proprietor. Now, some of tlie 
 most valuable farms in the two counties of Columbia and 
 Rensselaer, are formed upon its surface. To my eye, who 
 had travelled over so many millions of acres of pine land, 
 in the states of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the Alabama 
 territory, tiie very existence of pine timber in any great bo- 
 dies, produced ideas of sterility. It is to gypsum that the 
 region I am now speaking of, owes most of its reputation 
 as productive soil. Improved modes of agriculture, and 
 the use of manure, have their share very extensively in pro- 
 ducing so beneficial a <;hange. It delighted me the more, 
 to see flourishing farms amid forests of pine, as it convin- 
 ced my mind, tliat the pine regions I once considered con- 
 demned to irremediable barrenness, may be made highly 
 fruitful. If this conclusion is correct, and I now see its 
 practical demonstration, the possible existence of many mil- 
 lions of human beings is made manifest, that could never exist 
 if pine lands were unimprovable. Considerably more than 
 one half of all that part of the United States, south of lat. 
 35, east of the Mississippi river, and bounded south by the 
 Gulph of Mexico aad Florida, is covered with pine. All 
 Florida may be considered a pine country. 
 
 Approaching Albany, the road from Hudson passes over 
 a very hilly and sandy tract. The plains terminate with the 
 waters of Kinderhook ; but pine every where now presents 
 itself as the prevailing tree, and though I had seen the prac- 
 tical possibility of cultivating usefully, land upon which this 
 tree abounds, to even the exclusion of all others, yet so con-^ 
 firmed were iny habits of thinking on the subject, that it 
 
lET. I.] 
 
 35 
 
 gave to the vicinity of Albany an air of barrenness 1 liavo 
 since been convinced it does not deserve. 
 
 The approach to Albany upon tliis road, affords one of 
 the finest landscapes on the Hudson. About one and a half 
 miles from the city, the valley of the Hudson opens, present- 
 ing Albany, Greenbush, the wide sweeping bottoms of the 
 river, and the adjacent farms ; though thirty miles distant 
 the peaks of Windham, and up the Hudson, the elevated 
 country beyond Troy and Lansingburgh. The view of Al- 
 bany itself, is from this hill extremely advantangeous ; from 
 the rapid acclivity upon which that city is built, scarce a 
 house is unspeti. There is no point in the respective vicini- 
 ty of either Baltimore, Philadelphia, New- York, or Boston, 
 where those cities can be so completely engraspcd at one; 
 glance of the eye ; the view of Pittsburg from tlie 31ononga- 
 hela coal hill, is the only position that I have seen, whicU 
 pquals that near Albany. The latter is, however, superio^^ 
 coniniandhig a much wider field of vision. 
 
 Yoursj 
 
36 
 
 TBOY, 
 
 [tET. II, 
 
 LETTER 11. 
 
 Troy, May Bth, iSiS. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 TuK weather has been uiiifonnly and excessively ia- 
 clement since my departure from JVew-York, and in a par- 
 ticular manner since my arrival in Albany. The roads in 
 this neigliborhood are scarcely passable. Witli some dan- 
 ger and difficulty I yesterday came to this town. A^^e have 
 this morning an interval of clear sun-shine, which is cheer- 
 ful, and has exposed from the front street the snow capped 
 summits of the Catsbergs, The absence indeed of ice and 
 snow, is the only circumstance that even here marked the 
 approach of spring ; every object has otherwise, the cold 
 and solitary aspect of winter. The Hudson is excessively 
 swelled by the recent rains, and by the melting ice an(t 
 snow towards its source. 
 
 The banks near this town, at Albany, and for a few miles 
 below that city, indicate the diminished influence of the 
 tide, and the effects produced by mountain streams. Exten- 
 ded alluvial bottoms, and a continued current to the south- 
 ward, though still checked by the swell below, are changes 
 that obtrude themselves to the immediate notice of the 
 traveller. 
 
 This town is the first upon the Hudson, that can be con- 
 sidered as built upon the bottoms of that river. 'I'he site 
 is not elevated more than eight or ten feot above the level 
 of high water mark on the river bank, sloping gradually t© 
 the water edge. Some of the lower parts are now inimda- 
 ted. The base of the bottom on which the town is p!aeed» 
 is rolled pebble with an alluvial covering ; it is about 800 
 yards wide, from the foot of the hill to the river bank. 
 The hills rise with a very steep aeelirity, but without preci' 
 piees. 
 
1ST. II.] 
 
 TKOT. 
 
 I measured a base 335 feet, ia Col. Albert Pawlin's gar- 
 den, upon a very level plain from the extremity of which I 
 took angles of elevation, to standing objects upon the hill 
 in the rear of the city 5 the calculations founded upon the 
 base and angles gave 354 feet as the height of the hill, at 
 the distance of 3951 feet from the south extremity of the 
 base. The garden, in which this operation was performed, 
 is situated at the lower end of the city, about 100 feet 
 from the margin dell, and not more than two feet above 
 the level of the Hudson river, at the time the admeas- 
 urement was made. 
 
 Troy is formed by one main street inclining with the in- 
 flections of the river, and crossed by others running from 
 tlie river, to the base of the adjacent hills. Standing at or 
 near the head of tide water, lying so nearly level with the 
 Hudson, and having a well cultivated country above and in 
 its rear, Troy is well situated for a commercial town. Ia 
 point of wealth, business, population and extent, it is the 
 third town in the state of New-York. Most of the buildings 
 are of brick, and have an elegant and spacious appearance | 
 the inhabitants cannot fall short of seven thousand. 
 
 We have often, in conversation, spoke of the Hudson as a 
 long narrow bay, rather than a river. This body of water 
 has indeed but one characteristic, that could ever give it the 
 appellation of a river 5 that is its great length, when com- 
 pared with its ordinary widtli. In every other respect, it 
 exhibits the common features of a bay. I do not remember 
 to have ever read in any author, an attempt to define the 
 real difference between a river and a bay ; you will recol- 
 lect that in our little liydrographical definitions, we consid- 
 ered that body of water a river, whose opposing banks, did 
 actually or very nearly form corresponding curves ; and we 
 A'iewed that body of water a bay, into which, if connected 
 mth a sea having tides, those tides flowed, and wliose oppo- 
 site banks did not obey opposing inflections. If these prin- 
 ciples of analysis are eorreot, the Hudson is a bay to the 
 
as 
 
 XK8T. 
 
 Junefioa of i|# iioriii branch with (he Mohawk. It is to he 
 I'egretted, that the continuity of tlie Hudson above Water- 
 ford, had not received a distinctive name from tlie bay or 
 river below. In reality the Mohawk and the upper Hudson, 
 after rolling over considerable falls, both enter the head of a 
 bay. The features of those two latter rivers, except in 
 magnitude, differ but little from the otlier streams, which 
 have their sources in the higher extremities of the Hudson 
 valley, and which flowing over a comparative table lands 
 approach near, end are then precipitated over elevated ledg- 
 es of rock, before finding the level of the recumbent bay. 
 
 Examining the environs of Troy, Lansingburg, and AVa- 
 terford, I found Pajsten's-Ivill, which enters the Hudson at 
 the lower extremity of the former town, rolling over reite- 
 rated cataracts, similar to all the streams I had seen from 
 the Highlands upwards. The Mohawk dashing over the 
 Cahoos falls, and the Hudson over its numerous rapids, all 
 seem influenced in their motion by one common cause. 
 
 The view from the hills near Troy is extensive, but the 
 quantity of pine and cedar, give here, as near Albany, a 
 sterile aspect to the neighboring country. I have before ob- 
 served, that associating ideas of sterility with these ever- 
 greens, is in part a mistaken application of data, taken from 
 a distant and in many respects a very diflerent country. 
 "Well informed men have observed to me, when speaking of 
 those lands tbat appeared so barren, that* good husbandry 
 never failed to render them very productive. Your intelli- 
 gent friend B*****l, of Albany, who has made the experi- 
 ment npon part of the worst of those lands, confirms in 
 strong language their liability to amelioration. I am fond 
 of dwelling upon, and often recurring to such subjects. It 
 is pleasing to be convinced that a dense and happy popula- 
 tion, may be subsisted upon places ^vliere once iru-urahle 
 sterility seemed to reign. Adieu. 
 
LET. III.] 
 
 SCHENECTADY. 
 
 39 
 
 LETTER IIT. 
 
 Schenectady, May 8lh, iSlSi 
 
 I wouiD liave been pleased to have extended my ram- 
 bles more into the adjacent country, near Albany and Troy^ 
 but the incessant rain prevented any comfortable or benefi- 
 cial excursion. The 6lh of May the rain fell in torrents, 
 in the midst of vvhicli I returned from Troy to Albany, 
 vvJiere I remained until the morning of the Sth, when I set 
 out in the stage for the westward. The rain bad ceased in 
 the night, but the roads for about two miles from the city, 
 were so intolerable as to oblige (be passengers to leave the 
 stage, in order to enable the horses to drag the vehicle 
 through the deep mud. After attaining the summit level 
 at the western part of Albany, the country is level, the 
 surface a clay mixed with sand ; and whether (he wretched 
 road that exists there, is the necessary consequence of the 
 nature of the surface or soil, or the eifect of a defective po- 
 lice, those most concerned ought to explain. As it was, I 
 ■was glad to arrive safe over this marsh, and attain the sandy 
 plains farther to the wcstviard. 
 
 The distance from Albany to Schenectady is sixteen com- 
 puted miles; the intermediate country is broken, rolling 
 sandy, and in its natural state extremely barren. The prin- 
 cipal timber white pine and red cedar, admixed near the 
 streams with some white oak, black oak, and white birch, 
 with a few stems of red flowering maple. The water courses 
 which cross the road flow north-east towards the Mohawk, 
 and have some fine extensive farms npon their alluvial Jjot* 
 toms. Before reaching Schenectady a high bill gives the 
 traveller a full view of the adjacent country. At thetim®" 
 of the yeav in which I travelled a few blossoms upon 1h* 
 maples and birch trees, were the etily harbingers (jf ap.- 
 
4o 
 
 SCBBNEOTAUY, 
 
 [lET. lit 
 
 proaoJiiiig spring. T!ie slopes of die Mohawk were clothed 
 ■with pine ami cedar ; the leafless hraiiches of the other frees 
 were hid amid the deep green houghs of those hardy sons of 
 the forest. Descending into the vale in which stands the 
 comparatively anciient village of Schenectady, another and 
 more pleasing scene opens. The very flourishing village 
 standing upon the fertile alluvial flats of the Mohawk pre- 
 sents a rich picture of cultivation, contrasting strongly with 
 the sandy hills towards Albany, or the equally arid eminent 
 ces beyond (he Mohawk to the north of Schenectady. 
 
 This town, or city, is situated upon (he flats at the bottom 
 of tlie hills, on the south or right side of the Moliawk river j 
 it is more regularly laid out than most of the ancient towns 
 established by the early settlers of New- York, now contains 
 more than 500 houses, and perhaps 3000 inhabitants. Many 
 of the buildings are large, expensive and elegant. This town 
 is well placed to t-eceive the benefits of an extensive com- 
 merce with the rich and prosperous settlements which bor- 
 der the Mohawk to its source. The inhabitants seem to 
 have availed themselves of their advantages^ the trade of the 
 place appears productive. 
 
 Schenectady recals many facts of historical interest. It 
 formed for a long period of time, the frontier town towards 
 the Indian country. In February, 1690, a marauding party 
 of French and Indians surprised the inhabitants before day 
 light in the morning. Aroused from their peaceful beds by 
 the explosion of the fire arms, and the piercing yells of their 
 savage enemies, an indiscriminate slaughter ensued. The 
 mother and the babe, the husband and wife, the brother and 
 sister shared the same fate. A few escaped* who almost 
 naV;ed, through frost and snow carried the distressful tidings 
 to Albany. This was one of the many, and one of the most 
 tragical scenes of savage border warfare, that has occnrred 
 with some intervals, around our settlements for upwards of 
 4wo renturies, and which is far from having terminated. 
 The massacre at Fort Mims, and many others w ithin five 
 
, LKT. ill.] 
 
 SCttENECTADY. 
 
 years past, are only recent iiistiinces of (lie continual ion ol' 
 this most dreadtiil of all species of war. The circle is 
 widening, the very nation has ceased to exist, which reduced 
 Schenectady to ashes and buried in its ruins the remains of 
 its murdered citizens, bat other hordes of savages liave con- 
 tinually presented their ferocious front, and our frontiers 
 have ever been stained with the blood of helpless innocence. 
 Those tribes have apparently receded, but in fact they have 
 been rather extinguished. 
 
 The Mohawks,* who once gave law to an immense extent, 
 the centre of which was the present New- York, have also dis- 
 appeared from tlie world, and have only now remaining to at- 
 test their former existence, the name of (he beautiful stream 
 upon which is situated the town of Schenectady. Its current 
 once stained with human gore, now flows gentle, pure and 
 steady, through some of the iinest set(lenien{s in all America. 
 
 Schenee(ady is the seat of justice for the county of the 
 same name, and as such, contains (he usual buildings neces- 
 sary for courts of justice and prisons. It- is also more 
 honourably remarkable, as having within its limits Union 
 College, a respectable literary institution, incorporated iii 
 and took its name from the union of several religious 
 societies in its formation.^ It is now in a flourishing situa- 
 tion, having an ample library, philosophical and ehyniieal ap- 
 paratus, and upwards of 130 students. The annual expense 
 of board and education about S120 per annum. Doubts 
 have been suggested whether a good moral policy would 
 justify the reduction of collegiate education so low. ^Many 
 reasons more specious than solid, have been adduced, to 
 shew, "ihut Utile learning is a dangerous thing " and that 
 Hian, " must drink deep, or taste not of the Pierian spring." 
 I can never forget your reply, when I once observed, that 
 the time never could arrive when all mankind could be learn- 
 ed. Your expression was, that comparatively, almost any 
 
 * The allies, not the enemies of the people of Schenectady, 
 ■f SpatTords Gazetteer, page 44. 
 
43 
 
 VALLEY OE THE MOHAWK EIVEK. JCET. III. 
 
 member of a civilized country was learned, when compared 
 with savages ; and the common mode of expression would 
 suppose, (hat, all men ought to remain savage, or attain the 
 empyrean heights of literary excellence. Some light head- 
 ed dunces have become pedants by obtaining a few words in 
 the learned languages ; as our friend A***s, who spouts 
 languages living and dead, without more utility than a par- 
 rot would gain by using the same sounds. It cannot now, 
 however, be doubted, but that the human character is enno- 
 bled, the human heart soi'iened, and public morals purified, by 
 general instruction. Though slight abuses may arise in some 
 instances from the vteakncss or depravity of individuals, 
 those abuses deteriorate no more from (he value of educa- 
 tion, than the ordinary defects of all human institutions do, 
 from any amelioration whatever in the condition of our spe- 
 cies. 
 
 For my own part, I viewed the buildings composing the 
 tlsree colleges which bear the name of Union in Schenectady, 
 with a similar reverence, with which I had formerly felt 
 when passing Cambridge, Yale, Columbia, Princeton, and 
 Dickinson. Those, and other such edifices, are the true 
 temples of reason. 
 
 In the vale of the Mohawk, I considered myself as in a 
 new region. I had now passed (he utmost limit of the At- 
 lantic tides. Clinton's Inaugural Discourse, and Dr. Mitch- 
 ill's notes to Kirk and Mercein's edition of Cuvier's 
 Theory of the Earth, bad enflamed my desire to visit the 
 interior of this continent. I also wished to contrast with 
 each other, the two extrenii(ies of the United States. My 
 progress from the city of New-York to Albany, and even to 
 Bcheneoiady, as merely introductory to my real tour. 
 Hitherto I had travelled over a region remarkable in itself, 
 but with features of considerable resemblance to the scenes 
 to which you are most familiar, but from hence objects are 
 new, and of a nature very dissimilar to those over which we 
 have been in (he habit of rambling. 
 
 You will hear of me again from. Utiea. Adieu. 
 
iET. IT»] SGHEIfECTADX. 4S 
 
 LETTElllT. 
 
 Utica, Sflayillh, 1818. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 By an unexpected good fortune the weather continued 
 without rain during my journey from Schenectady to this 
 town. The roads were in many places extremely bad, which 
 circumstance had one good effect, it enabled me to keep ia 
 advance of the stage, and by travelling on foot, and in some 
 Mieasure at my leisure, procured me a mucJi belter view of 
 the country than I could have gained by continuing ia the 
 Yehiele. I kept my pocket book and pencil in my hand, and 
 made my notes as the objects presented themselves. Eough 
 as these notes are, 1 have sent you a copy, lean add nothing 
 material by putting them in any other form. You e^xpressed 
 a kind desire te hear from me, and to have as near as pos- 
 sible a picture of my route, and a description of (he incidents 
 «f my tour, as these incidents transpired. The distances are 
 given from Alliany, as it was on leaving that city, that I 
 eommenced to note regularly the stages and diversities of 
 the country. 
 
 MIIES. 
 
 1*6 From Albany to ScJiencctaihf. 
 
 As soon as I had finislied breakfast ia the latter 
 town, I seized my cane, put your letter in the 
 mail, am] preceded the stage over the Mohawk. 
 The road here passes this sfreatn by a fine wooden 
 liridge, said to bs the masfci'pieco of the celebra- 
 ted bridge builder, Theodore Burr ; it is 997 feet in 
 length. The structure -was entirely new to me, 
 and could not be satisfactorily given without a 
 diagram. The most facile mode of conveying to 
 you, an idea of the principle upon which this 
 feridge is formed, is by an m placed Jengthwfce. 
 
44 
 
 AIOHAAVK BIVEK, 
 
 [UKT. IT, 
 
 — rl6 The decumbent curves resting upon abutments, 
 and the incumbent one; supporting tlie roof; the 
 whole fabric has the fiPjiearanee of great strength. 
 The abutments are ir-mposed of stone, the super- 
 structure -wood J the curved arches arc framed out 
 of thick plank. 
 
 The road to Ballston leaves that (o Utica, at the 
 north extremity of the bridge. The latter road 
 proceeds over the Mohawk flats, a rich and level 
 alluvial bottom, wliicli has much the appearance of 
 having once been the bottom of a lake. These 
 plains are now extremely productive, though envi- 
 roned on the north and south sides by sterile pine 
 hills. 
 
 S — 21 Havdey's tavern. 
 
 8 — 29 Groat's tavern. 
 
 Between the two last stages, the country has be- 
 come extremely variegated and broken; The north 
 bank along which I travelled, was hilly, and often 
 so precipitous, as to leave scarce room for the road 
 to pass ; the south side slopes gradually from the 
 river, with numerous farms rising above each 
 other as far as the eye can reach. The soil of the 
 r.orth side appears sandy and sterile, that of the 
 south must be of a greatly superior quality. The 
 prevalent timber on the liiiSs pine, wilh different 
 kinds of oak and white birch ; that on the river 
 bodoms and contiguous banks, white walnut, 
 shi;ll !>ark hickory, some liriodendron tulipifera 
 d ciicsnut. 
 
 The river is about 250 yards wide, and filled 
 wi!h islands, which follow each other in rapid 
 succession. Sand and rounded pebbles lorm the 
 superstratum, but schistose limestone appears pro- 
 jecting from the banks in a horizontal position, 
 marking the conimenecmcnt of a setondfiry i egion. 
 
TllIPBS HIM. 
 
 45 
 
 MIIES. 
 
 1—30 E. E. Degniff's: 
 
 1— 31 G. Mannij's. 
 
 Horizontal or Floetz limesfone, becomes more 
 frequent. The opposing banks niaiulain their rela- 
 tive characters. 
 
 2 — S3 Village of Amstevdam in Montgomeiij county. 
 
 This is a romaiitie village, situated on the slope 
 of the hills, with the Chuektanunda, a large creek 
 foaming over ledges of limestone amongst the 
 buildings, and rushing impetuously down the adja- 
 cent declivities towards the Mohawk. The sud- 
 den effect of this admixture of houses and cataracts 
 is extremely pleasing and picturesque. Tiie south 
 shore continues to sweep before the eye, in far dis- 
 tant stages of cultivated acclivities. 
 4 — 37 , 2'ripes Hill, opposite the tnouth of Seoharie river, 
 
 or creek. \ 
 This is one of the most singular and difficult 
 passes on the Mohawk river. Tlic hill rises 
 abrupt, is high, sandy, and extremely painful in 
 the ascent. There is no mode to avoid this in- 
 convenience, as the bank of the river is an ele- 
 vated ledge of rock on the north side. The table 
 land is a sandy plain, and (he descent above is also 
 but little less abrupt (ban the ascent below. From 
 (he highest part of the hill, the mouth and valley 
 of the Schoharie is in full view. The bottom of 
 the Mohawk is here extensive, but extrenieiy flat 
 on the south side ; the Schoharie is seen meandering 
 over this plain in its course from the hills to tho 
 Mohawk river. The bottoms appear extremely 
 fer(ile, but must be sulyect to occasional inundation, 
 and from their undeviating level, the crops must 
 suffer great injury when these accidents occur. 
 E 3 
 
|XT.T. IV. 
 
 2 — 30 Conner's laDent. 
 
 3 — i.2 Village of Caghnatcagit. 
 1 — i3 Johnson's creek. 
 
 G — i'j C'onnely's tavern. 
 
 8 — 57 Fulatiiie lower Village. 
 
 Belli een the two last stages, the road passe-s 
 geneiaMy upon the river bottoms, which are narrow 
 and terminated to the north by sleep hills or pev- 
 pendieulav ledges of secondary rock. The south 
 ban^i is also broken, rocky ami mucli less cultiva- 
 ted than any e(pal distance I have yet seen on the 
 Mohawk. The soil black, ami no doubt fertile ; 
 even that of the hills assumes a more inviting ap- 
 pearance as I have ascended. The timber is now 
 sti'ongly indieativp ©f productive soil ; sugar majjle 
 is so coranron as to form the pi incipal article of 
 4'uel, this tree never flourishes abundantly, except 
 upon the very best lands ; it is here often seen of 
 gigantic size along the boUoms, and ofteri upon the 
 highest and steepest banks visible from the road. 
 Other timber trees, thougii fewer in nunsber, con- 
 tinue as before noietl. 
 
 The I'ock strata is schistose limestone and sand- 
 stone, alternately overlaying each other. 
 
 i — 61 Palatine upper village. 
 
 Pace of the country continues nnclianged, on each 
 side of the river, perpendicular precipices frequent, 
 1 remained over night in the latter village, and at 
 the dawn of day, on the morning of the 9th of May, 
 set out on foot in advance of the stage, and walked 
 
 6 — 67 to Palatine church. Slope of the country has now 
 changed to the north or left side of the stream. 
 Sugar maple the prevailing timber, and almost ex- 
 clusive fuel. 
 
£121'. IV.] 
 
 «PPENIIEIM. 
 
 *7 
 
 MILES. 
 
 7 — 74 Moiilh of East Canada creek, and village of Op- 
 'penheim. 
 
 The village stands near the bank of the Mohawk 
 above the mouth of the creek. Lower or East 
 Canada, is a fine mil! stream of about twenty-five 
 miles in length, independent of particular bends, 
 rising in Montgomery county upon the same table 
 land from which flows the Sacoadago bi'aneh of 
 Hudson river. The two streams interlock, and 
 falling over a number of precipices, pursue their 
 respective courses with great rapidity, until lost in 
 in the larger stream, info which their waters are 
 discharged. It may be here repeated that all tJie 
 tributary streams of the Hudson, and its branches 
 seem to be peculiarly adapted to the construction of 
 water machinery. East Canada creek forms from 
 its mouth, about twenty miles of the boundary be- 
 tween Montgomery and Herkimer counties. 
 
 Oppenheim is a small village, with nothing in its 
 construction or situation worthy particular notice. 
 3__77 fail Walkenhurg¥s Inn. 
 
 Since leaving Oppenlieim, I travelled over high 
 hills ; the slope has now again changed to the south 
 side of the Mohawk, which presents an elegant ac- 
 clivity rising to considerable elevation, chequered 
 with farms and copses of wood, intermingling is* 
 endless variety. A summer excursion over this re- 
 gion must aiford the most charming contrasts in 
 nature. It is now pleasing in the undress of nature, 
 with banks of snow still resting upon many of the 
 hi!! sides. 
 
 The timber continues to present similar varieties 
 as before noticed, since leaving Palatine, except 
 that sugar maple, now encroaches still more upoiii 
 the other species of trees. 
 
48 
 
 IITTIB TAM.S. 
 
 [lET. ly. 
 
 MII,ES. 
 
 SI. LUtle Fails. 
 
 This cataract Is eauseil by a chain of granitic 
 mountains cf jio great clcvalion, vvhiftli crosses tiie 
 Mohawk at this place. The cliaiii is a rantilicasion, 
 w perhaps a eoirtiriuatioii of the Catsdergs. Ap- 
 I»roaehif!gthe pass, I was struck wsth ifs great re- 
 seiii'oiance to the passage of the Janiata, throiigh 
 the Wariior moaiitain below Bciiford, in Pennsjl- 
 vania, exeept that ilse sccnerj of the latter is on a 
 larger scale, and the moiunains covered vviiU a iess 
 ■vigorous grow th of trees, than tliose Mliich occasion 
 the Little Fails in'the Mohawk. In both, the fivers 
 at tlie distance below, of half a mile, seein to issue 
 from the base of the Hioiintains, which seen obiiiiue- 
 }y, conceals the narrow glens through whieii the 
 waters work their toilsome waj.* 
 
 * The description given by gov. De Witt Clinton, of the Liltte 
 Falls, will continue to supercede the nse of any other. It is in- 
 deed a fine specimen of topographical painting, and places the 
 attendant phenomena before tlie iniTid's eye. 1 had Dr. Mitchill's 
 notes on Cnvier, into which this description is copied, in my hands 
 when passing this interesting cataract, and amid the wildness 
 of the scene, aiid in hearing of the roar of the gushing waters, 
 read and felt the truth of this excellent view of one of the great 
 scenes that our country presents to the admiring ti-aveller. Few 
 in this country but who have often read the respective works I 
 have mentioned in my text, and have seen of course, the descrip- 
 tion of the Little Falls, to which I have alluded. The reader 
 ■will pardon, however, its insertion from the original work, in a 
 note ; some may not have read it, and few who have, will find a 
 second perusal tedious. 
 
 " The Little Falls on the Mohawk river, in connexion with the 
 surrounding country, exhibit a very interesting aspect. As yon 
 approach the falls the river becomes narrow and deep, and you 
 ■pass through immense l ocks, principally of granite, interpei sed 
 -with limestone. In various places you observe profound exca- 
 ■vations in the rocks made by the agitation of pebbles in the 
 fissures, and in some places the river is not more than twenty 
 yards wide. As you approacli the western extremity of the hillsj 
 you tindtliera about half a mile di.stant from sunnnit to summit,, 
 
lijaT. IV. 
 
 tiTTIE taxm: 
 
 is 
 
 MUES. 
 
 — Si The scenery near the Little Falls, is wild antl 
 striking. As you approach this place, the Tailey 
 ef die river seems to close, the road approaches the 
 pass obliquely, winding along the foot of hills 
 
 and at least three hundred feet high. The rocks are composed 
 of granite, and many of tiiem are thirty or forty feet thick, and 
 the whole mountain extends at least, half a iriile from east to west. 
 You see them piled on each other, like Ossa on Peiion, and in 
 other places, huge fragments scattered about, indicating a violent 
 ruptuje of the waters throut;h this place, as if they had been for- 
 merly dammed up and had fonned a passage, and in all directions 
 you behold great rocks exhibiting rotundities, points and cavi- 
 ties, as if worn by the violence of the waves, or hurled from 
 tht'ir ancient positions. 
 
 " The genei-al appearance of the Little Falls indicates the for- 
 mer existence of a great lake above, connected with the Oneida 
 lake; and as the waters forced a passage here and receded, the 
 flats above were formed and composed severs! thousand acres of 
 the richest land. Rome being the highest point on the lake, the 
 passage of the waters on the east side left it bare ; the Oneida 
 lake gradually receded oh the west side, and fonned the great 
 marsh or swamp, now surrounding the waters on Wood creek. 
 The piiysiognomy of the country f om the commencement of 
 Wood ci'eek to its termination in the Oneida lake, confirms this hy- 
 pothesis. The westerly and northwesterly winds continually drive 
 the sand of the lake towards the creek, and you can distinctly 
 perceive the al'uvion increasing eastward by the accumulation of 
 sand, and the fornjation of new ground. Near the lake, you ob- 
 serve sand without trees, then to the east a few scattering trees ; 
 and as you proceed in that direction, the woods thicken. Tiie 
 whole country from the commencement to the terra-nation of 
 Wood ci'eek, looks like made ground. In digging the cana! in 
 Wood creek, pine trees have been found twelve feet deep. An 
 old boatman several years ago, said that he had been fifty years 
 in that employ, and that the Oneida lake had receded iialf a mile 
 within his memory. William Colbreath, one of the first settlers 
 at Rome, in digging a well, found a large tree at the depth of 
 twelve feet. This great lake, breaking down in the first place, 
 the barriers which opposed the progress of its waters to the east, 
 and then gradually receding to the west, is a subject well deserv- 
 ing of minute investigation." — Clinton's Introductory Bhcourse^ 
 page 52. 
 
 Since my return to the city of New-York, I had the pleasure 
 of meeting there, with Mr, Isaac Briggs, who is mentioaed in this. 
 
50 
 
 XITTXE FAIXS. 
 
 [let iy. 
 
 MIES. 
 
 — SI covered with enormous sugar maples w hose rough 
 boughs hang over the head of the passenger. An 
 elegant while tavern house stands near the en- 
 trance into the nars-ow g'en below tlie eataraet. 
 After passing the house a few yards, the road turns 
 suddenly to the right, and scenes of grandeur suc- 
 ceed each other in rapid I'evicw. The huge un- 
 shapen fragments of granite and otlier rocks, lie 
 disrupted in an infinity of positions, interspersed 
 and overgrown with sugar maple, elm, hemlock, 
 oak, pine, and other trees, Toiling about half a 
 
 eorrrespondencc as one of the gentlemen employed under the 
 authority of the slate of New- York, as an engineer on the grand 
 canal. Mr. Briggs in tlie execution of liis official duty, has mea- 
 sured and levelled the Mohawk river and its banks from Rome to 
 the Little Falls, and who had tlie goodness to give me the follow- 
 ing measurements of the hills adjacent to the Little Falls. 
 
 Falls-hill, where the road (on the south side of the Mohawk,) 
 passes it, is 518 feet higher than our level above the falls; 57ai 
 ieet higher than our level two miles below the falls ; 473 feet 
 higher than Rome level ; and 323 feet higher than the surface oi 
 lake Erie. 
 
 This admeasurement shews, that the present level above the 
 Falls is only forty-five feet different from the level of Rome. Of 
 course, if the time ever existed when the water at the Falls was 
 more than forty-five feet above its present level, then did a lake ex.- 
 tend to the present Oneida, making the whole one sheet of water. 
 The most incoiitestible proofs remain upon the rocks, in and 
 near the present fall, that the water once tiowed more than fifty 
 feet higher than it does now.. What revolutions ! what sudden 
 and gradual changes have wrought their effects upon the crust of 
 our planet ! wiiat we now see of the surface of our globe is almost 
 composed of water, or of broken fragments torn by violence from 
 their pristine position, at times beyond our records, and in many 
 instances, by means that ehideour research. 
 
 To pursue the investigation of these changes, is not always an 
 idle application, as in the instance before us, where the examiixa- 
 tion of the phenomena enables us to form rational opinions upon, 
 how far we can efi«ct beneficial improvements upon the now exis- 
 tent waters in this singular region. A region where rivers appear 
 in many instances in their youth. 
 
luBT. IT.] 
 
 ItTTlE PAM.S. 
 
 61 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — 81 mile, you first hear the din and then approacli, 
 Avithin sight of the foaming sur rf, tun l>li:ig witli 
 irri'sistible violence over its rocky bed. From the 
 foot of the falls, the road winds its tortuous way up 
 the steep ascent, and in about a quarter of a mile> 
 brings tlie traveller to a beautiful, well built vil- 
 lage. Here every feeling of taste meets a rich 
 repast ; so many, so variant, and so striking are 
 tbe objects which the liand of nature and art, have 
 here engrouped in one prospect. The rock in 
 thousands of forms, trees and shrubs rising from 
 their interstices. The white surge of the falling 
 waters; bejond which is seen the smooth surface 
 of the Mohawk, whose placid stream advances 
 slow and silent to the scene of tumult below. Still 
 farther to the south-west, opens the iine expansion 
 of the German flats, chequered witii all the de- 
 corations of field, orchard, meadow, liouses and 
 copses of wood. The clear blue heaven and fleecy 
 cloii'is form the back ground of this delightful 
 landscape. A landscape the traveller can enjoy 
 frosii the windows of an excellent inn, which stands 
 in the romantic village which raises its well built 
 houses between the almost perpendicular crags on 
 one side, and the struggling stream on the other. 
 The marks are numerous and manifest of an ante- 
 rior and much greater elevation of the water than 
 found there at present. Many of the rocks are 
 perforated with round holes, made by the rotation 
 of pebbles in a running stream. Those rotks are 
 often of immense size, and placed where they have 
 lain for countless ages. These imprinted evi- 
 dences of geological revolution, evince a slow and 
 gradual, not a sudden or violent change. The op- 
 posing hills seem as if sawn asunder by the pei^ 
 
52 
 
 GEKMAN JTLATS. 
 
 [IJIT. lY. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 — 81 petiial abrasion of the water. No farther altera- 
 tion of consequence can take place in future, as the 
 bed of the river is worn down to a level with the 
 bottom of the ancient decumbent lake. 
 
 Passing above the falls, the road follows the 
 bank of the river, from which the adjacent hills 
 rise by a very steep ascent. Prominences pro- 
 trude themselves frequently to (he margin of the 
 water, and force the course of the road to rise to 
 considerable elevation, giving reiterated opportu- 
 nities to enjoy the prospect of the truly rich coun- 
 try, known by the name of the German flats. This 
 region takes it name from the eircunisiance of the 
 first civilized emigrants bfing Germans. Upon no 
 part of the United States have the inhabitants suf- 
 fered more from that murderous border warfare, 
 instigated by whites, and pursued by savages, than 
 did the early settlers on the now smiling German 
 flats. For a long period of time after the settle ■ 
 tlements made by the French in Canada, and by 
 the English and Dutch upon the Atlantic coast ; the 
 Mohawk and Oswego rivers, formed the line of 
 eruptive-communication, and blood marked its va- 
 rious points.* The aged yet remember, and re- 
 count witli a melancholy recollection, many of 
 those tragical scenes. Time has changed the 
 drama, the rage of war has subsided, the savages 
 have perished or dwindled to a wretched remnant^ 
 Towns, villages, churches, schools, and farm 
 houses, now adorn this once dreary v/aste. The 
 cultivated mind may shed a tear upon the horrors 
 of the past, but a tear like rain drops in the beams 
 
 Some of the horrors of this long chain of sangainary eventSj. 
 will be noticed in tlie sequel of this treatise. 
 
lET. IV.] WEST CANABA CHEEK. 
 
 53 
 
 MIIES. 
 
 — 81 of the sun. A review of <lie present must be de- 
 lightful to every generous and feeling heart. It is 
 a picture on which is traced, the most interesting 
 revolution in (he moral and physical condition of 
 human nature. There is seen the region, where a 
 few years past, roamed the blood stained savage, 
 and where now dwells in peace and plenty the 
 civilized man. Where in times remote, stood an 
 expansive lake, and where now bloom tlie most lux- 
 uriant harvests. Spring had made but little ad- 
 vance, at the time I passed this remarkable place ; 
 I amused my fancy in contemplating what it would 
 exhibit when decked in all the gaiety of the vernal 
 season, or when the fields and meadows were 
 clothed in the lieh garb of summer. Lost in this 
 pleasing reverie, time past unheaded until my re- 
 collection was aroused by finding myself at the 
 mouth of ' 
 f — 86 West Canada creek. 
 
 From the projecting hill below Ibis creek, a very 
 comprehensive view is aflbrdcd of both the German 
 and Herkimer flats. These expansive botioms are 
 in fact, the same body of soil, being only divided 
 by the Mohawk river, winding from the hills on 
 its south, to those on its north side. West Canada 
 creek is a stream of considerable magnitude, rising 
 in a very hilly or rather mountainous country 
 which forms the sou(h-wcst angle of Hamiltou 
 county. This elevated tract is the continuation of 
 the same ridge that crosses the Mohawk at, and 
 forms (he Little Falls, and which gives rise in the 
 same neighborhood to the two Canadas, and to the 
 Saeondago branch of the Hudson. West Canada, 
 like its namesake, falls iuij^jetuously in almost all 
 Us course. Its higlier branchcs flow westwardly 
 
Y1I.I.AGE or HERKIMER. 
 
 lET. IV.J 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — S6 about twenty miles, unite and enter Herkiiiiev, and 
 Jjending abruptly south, wind through the latter 
 t'ounfy twenty more miles, and is then lost in tlie Mo- 
 hawk. The spring floods of those short mountain 
 stj-eams, are terrible. A line wooden bridge for- 
 merly crossed West Canada near its mouth, but the 
 freshet of last winter carried it away ; the inhabi- 
 tants are now erecting another, which will be, no 
 doubt, completed in the course of the ensuing sum- 
 mer. I passed the creek in a skiff, and soon found 
 myself in 
 * — 87 The village of Herkimer. 
 
 This village stands upon an elevated but alluvial 
 plain, composed of rounded pebbles, sand and clay. 
 It occupies the central part of the flats of the same 
 name. The neighboring country is well cultivated, 
 the soil exuberantly fertile, and the improvements 
 exhibit an air of wealth and industry. The Herki- 
 mer flats do not appear to be so tamely level as those 
 on the opposite side of the Mohawk. In point of 
 timber, they present one general eliaracter ; sugar 
 tree, elm, white walnut or butternut, prevails upon 
 the bottoms near the streams ; on the hills or ele- 
 vated slopes are found oak, hemlock, linden, (bass- 
 wood) sugar maple, elm, ash, and hickory. Of 
 oak, ash, and hickory, several species of each oc- 
 cur. 
 
 I remaisied but a short time in the village of 
 Herkimer, set out, and after passing the small and 
 
 6—93 unimportant village of Schuyler, found myself about 
 four in the afternoon in 
 
 8— tot Ulica. 
 
 The plain of the Herkimer flats continues from that vil- 
 lage to Schuyler, where the road rises upon higher but still 
 level land. Tine slope is here on the north side. Some part 
 
LET. IV.] 
 
 BS 
 
 of the country is not very well improved. More wood land 
 remains here than I had seen any where else since leaving 
 Sclieneelady. This character however changes in approach- 
 ing the city of Ulica, whose vicinity exhihits a well cultivat- 
 ed and wealthy neighborhood. The whole country presents 
 marks of not very ancient submersion. The super-stratum 
 is every where sand, loam and rounded pebbles ; the materi- 
 als in various degrees of respective prevalence and commix- 
 ture ; the whole affording in many places a soil of extraor- 
 dinary fertility. 
 
 Utica is approached from the north, in part by a very bad 
 road, and in part by a very good causeway. The latter is 
 about a mile in length, but does not cross the level alluvial 
 flats of the Mohawk. The residue of the road, was, when I 
 passed it, in a wretched condition. 
 
 Utiea occupies (he site of old fort Schuyler, and stands 
 apon the riglit or south bank of the Mohawk river, in Oneida 
 county, and in north latitude 43° 06.* The site of this town 
 is a gentle ascent, not exceeding two degrees, if so much. 
 Tlie opposite bank of the Mohawk is for about a mile and a 
 Jialf a perfect unbroken plain. The town stands at the low- 
 est depression of tlie ancient basin. The adjacent country 
 rises so imperceptibly that no elevation of consequence is 
 perceivable from the streets. Few trees are visible except 
 Hemlock and sugar maple. This town has two banks, one 
 a branch of that of Manhattan, in the city of New-York, the 
 other formed by the citizens, and incorporated since 1812. 
 Some very productive manufactories exist in this neighbor- 
 hood. The commerce of the place appears flourishing ,• a 
 matter of course, as Utica is a kind of tlioroughfare between 
 Albany and the central and western parts of the state of 
 New-York. The grand canal will pass through tliis town, 
 and add much to its importance as a place of business. 
 
 * Tlie latitude I obtained in Utica from that accurate matlie- 
 matician Isaac Bbiggs, who also gave me the variation ef the 
 magnetic needle tliere, \9' W. 
 
56 
 
 tJTlCA. 
 
 Utica contains at this time near 3000 inhabitants, between 
 4 and SOO houses, wilh stores, taverns, book stores, and 
 other appendages of a flourishing country town. Here roads 
 diverge in all directions ; down the valley of the Mohawk 
 to Schenectady ; westward to Auburn, Geneva, Canandai- 
 gua, Batavia, and Buffalo ; southward towards the valleys 
 ef the Delaware and Susquehannah rivers ; and northward 
 to Sacket's Harbor. 
 
 The day I write is heavy and threatens rain. The stage 
 does not leave this town until to-morrow j I shall however 
 trust the weather and niy feet, and set out as usual, with my 
 eane in one hand and my tablets in the other. You Avill not 
 again hear from me before 1 reach Sacket's Harbor ; in the 
 mean time, though I am daily advancing farther from home, 
 I am not the less sincerely, 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 Your devoted friend. 
 
 J.ETTER V, 
 SacM's Harbor, May mil, 181S, 
 
 Deas Sis> 
 
 DitKKCHED to the skin, I arrived here yesterday even- 
 ing, at It' P. M. Euelosed you have a transr-ript of my jonr- 
 ssal from I'(i<'a to thit; (own. I was fortunately favored with 
 good wcHiher the greatest part of the way, and only had a 
 heavy rain to close my journey hither. 
 mii.es. 
 
 1 "Prom UHca to cross-roads. 
 1-^2 Road to Rome, 
 
 Leaves that which lends towards Sacket's Har- 
 Isor f the latter now assumes its north'west course^ 
 
LET. v.] 
 
 MILES. 
 
 1 — 3 Jforth'op's. 
 
 After leaving U(ica and proceeding as far as t]ie 
 cross roads, I had tiie fortuno by carelessness or 
 some other cause to take a wrong road, and wan- 
 dered to the northward about two nsiles, but find- 
 ing my error I with some trouble regained my in- 
 tended road. I found ihe countiy rising more ra- 
 pidly than I anticipated. A small' creek which 
 rises in the high ground north of Utica, and wliich 
 enters the Mohawk river nearly opposite that 
 (own, has cut so deep a ravine in the yielding ma- 
 terials through which it flows, as to be passed with 
 difficulty. I strayed to the east of this creek, and 
 was forced to return to the cross roads to regain 
 my way. 
 
 Ahove Northrop's the road ascends in some pla- 
 ces gently and others abi uptly, along the acclivity 
 of the hills. I frequently turned to enjoy the 
 prospect behind me, which though interrupted by 
 the woods, was exposed at intervals by the farms 
 which have been cleared near the road. As I iip- 
 proaclied the suunnit 1 found the ascent more rapid, 
 and the adjacent land more free Iron) timber, con- 
 sequently the prospect expanded at every step ,• and 
 «n the extreme brow a large farm exposed to full 
 view the city of Utica, the vicinity, and the valley 
 of the Mohawk to the farthest limit of vision. 
 The eye has a range of more than thirty miles 
 cast, south and soutiiwest. Utica, though five 
 miles distant, seemed to lie at my feet. As I stood 
 and gazed upon this noble prospect, I could not 
 avoid exclaiming mentally " that I had seen many 
 
 more sublime views, many more graad, but not 
 " one had ever before met my eye, that so coni« 
 
 pletcly answered to my'coneeptions, of the truly 
 F 
 
ROAD TROM VTIGA. 
 
 [lET. T. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 i — r> '< soft and beautiful in laiidseape." Certainly I 
 had more than a thousand farms spread before me, 
 niaiiy Inindreds could be seen at one glance. Those 
 near were seen most distinctly, whilst those more 
 remote gradually diiuinislied in size, and became, 
 fmn increased distance, less distinct, until, like 
 the vast inclined plane upon whieli ihey stood, (hey 
 were finally lost upon the verge of the distant sky- 
 That mind must be void of tlse least sympathies 
 of human nature, "ho could behold this fine pros- 
 pect, without fetiing a strong sensation of pleas- 
 ure. Gratii'yiiig indeed must be the refleefion 
 upon (he sum of domeslie peace, plenty, affection, 
 and comfort, enjoyed within its liuiifs. 
 
 3 — 6 Tavern upon the UMe land of the hill. 
 
 2 — 8 do. upon the bottom northicard of the hill. 
 1 — 9 Carrel's tavern upon nine mile run, flowing south- 
 west into the Moliaii-k. 
 
 4 — 13 Village of Trenton. 
 
 Thus far I proceeded the same evening 1 left 
 Utica, and found myself very well disposed to rest, 
 after a walk of seventeen miles, including the di- 
 rect distance, my error and its remedy, in my out- 
 set from Utica. 
 
 Between Utiea and Trenton I found four varie- 
 ties of soil and timber. Upon llie Moliawk flats 
 exist a deep black alluvial loam, with a slight in- 
 termixture of pebble. As the different banks rise, 
 pebble becomes more plentiful and decumbent, in 
 relation to the other materials of the soil. The 
 timber upon the alluvial, as also upon the contigu- 
 ous banks, is composed of hemlock, beech, sugar, 
 maple and elm, with rare examples of other trees. 
 The prodiiclive quality of the alluvial soil is very 
 strong, that of the contiguous slopes but little in- 
 
iET. v.] 
 
 FACE OF TUB COClfTRT. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 —13 forior. The latter speoies of land more spungy 
 and wet than the formrv. thoiigfi (he eonlrary 
 would appear from relative posilion. The general 
 crop in (his section of the state jf New-York, ap- 
 pears (o l)e maize, wheat, rye, oats, and meadow 
 grass. Fruit trees suitable to the eliniate, such as 
 apples, pears, plumbs and cherries, appear pl)»nti- 
 fuL Peach trees cannot here endure the severity 
 of winter cold, 
 
 Rising above the alluvion and conligirous banksj 
 appears (he second species of soil ; tliis latter va- 
 riety of land it called in the colonial language of 
 the country inteiTal land. This soil is, as [ iiave 
 already observed, more spungy than that of tlie 
 alluvion, and certainly much less productive. I 
 ought, however, to premise that unusual rains Inul 
 preceded my visit to this country, and that many 
 places appeared then wet and even inundated, 
 which would not be subject (o similar inconven- 
 ience in a more moderate season. The water left 
 on the ground by recent I'ains, could not neverthe- 
 less, destroy the means of forming a correct com- 
 parative estimate. From a greaser slope, every 
 other circumstance equal, the intemil land ought 
 to be less moist than the alluvion, the contrary is, 
 as I have observed the fact. The varieties '■of 
 timber upon the interval, docs not materially dif- 
 fer from those upon tlie alluvial land, except black 
 birch (betula nigra) which is more abundant upon 
 the former than upon the latter soil. 
 
 Ascending towards the summit of the hills, and 
 before gaining the apex, I found deep ruts made 
 by the wash of the road, the sides of which laid 
 bare projections of secondary mica slate, lying in 
 
1:ACE OE the OOITNTRY. 
 
 [let. v. 
 
 SflXES. 
 
 — 13 Us original posiiion ; forming the the third variety 
 of soil. 
 
 '1 hough apparently proilut-tive as !he interval 
 tract, this slate region must, from its greater ele- 
 valion, be more subjeet to early and late IVost, than 
 cither of the two prei-eding varieties of land. 
 P'urnis of great extent are open upon eaeh seetion. 
 The lii,t;best sumndt of the hill wliere the road pas- 
 ses is cleared land, and aftbrds lo ihe traveller a 
 convenient opportunity of reviewing the vast ex- 
 panse ai onnd Ulica. 
 
 Upon the fable land above the miea slate, now 
 repose immense bodies of rounded granite and bas- 
 altic pebble. The prest'nt respective position of 
 tJiese rocks, are so different from that assigned 
 tSiem by geologists, and the difficulty of accounting 
 from any known operation of nature, for the trans- 
 portation to such distance from their primitive bedsj 
 and elevation to such heiglits of blocks of granite 
 and basalt, often eight or ten feet diameter, that 
 the task of aeeounting for existent phenomena 
 must be iefi by me to those better qualiiied, or 
 more disjsosed to enter into the disquisition. I can 
 only observe, that Ihe schist or slate demonstrably 
 reposes in its primitive position ; whilst the incum- 
 bent pel)bles. enormous as they are. have evidently 
 been forei d into their present state, by the agency 
 of some fluid. Water, as that body now operates 
 in i ither of its known states of ice or fluidity, 
 could never preserve in motion, consequently 
 transport one of the blocks I have seen to any, 
 even the smallest distance, much less eo\er an im- 
 mense surface with those rounded iisasses, which 
 exi(;bit ail .sizes, freui a grain of sand to bodies of 
 mere than twenty feet diameter. This with many 
 
IiBT. T.] 
 
 BABE or THE GdUNTET. 
 
 61 
 
 MII.ES. 
 
 — la other phenomena I have seen, induces me (o believe 
 that an order of things once, and fur a great lengtli 
 of tisne, existed upon this plasiet, producing elfeots 
 that remain when tiieir causes have ceased lo ope- 
 rate, perhaps forever. 
 
 Upon the table land, sugar maple ceases almost 
 entirely, though so very abundant upon the alluvi- 
 al, interval, and even upon the schistose tract. 
 The black birch commences a shrub near the Mo- 
 hawk river, but when elevated upon the table land, 
 assumes the size and majesty of a forest tree of the 
 first magnitude. Beech on the contrary, a stately 
 tree on the low grounds, dwindles in mounting to 
 a more alpine air, and upon the table land is rare, 
 and of stinted growth. Elm and hemlock forms 
 the mass of the forest upon the table land. 
 
 Eitiier from the iiafuess of the land or from 
 some other cause, the table land is extremely 
 swampy, and of course inconvenient to cultivate ; 
 it is here narrow, not exceeding a mile in widih. 
 
 Upon the northern brow of the hill, a prospect 
 expands of little less dimensions than that seen 
 from its southern slope. The not»ihern landscape 
 is less interesting than the southern at this time, as 
 presenting only a mass of woods with a few open- 
 ings only, whereas that of the south exhibits an 
 immense surface of cultivated country. 
 
 To me this northern view was highly pleasing, 
 as it iirst laid before me, upon its back ground, part 
 of the basin of (he Canadian sea. .Deseending the 
 declivity, I gazed upon the blue verge before tn(! 
 as if I hat! feit myself entering into a new v/orhl. 
 To me this transition was not illusory. Though 
 upon the same planet, and even upon the same 
 eoatinent, Iho images I now see around mc are so 
 F 2 
 
VTICA TO TREKTOW. 
 
 [let. V. 
 
 ~~iS (liiFMTnt from tliose I have been for a long perscd 
 ftctiistomod to Ix'holil, tliat my sensations woiiltl 
 not be liiuch more changed if I was transported t« 
 another world in rea,!ity. 
 
 I found the surface of the slope as I descended, 
 composed of clay, sand, and immense liodies of 
 rounded pebble. The present slate of the interior 
 of North America, exhibits phenomena a< every 
 Btep, which demonstrate that water or s@nie oth- 
 er fluid has flowed over the surface of the land for 
 a very great length of time. This fluid has been 
 the agent of modification. Whilst the surface near 
 the Canadian sea continued in a state of submer- 
 sion, it is very probable that the face of the earth 
 ■was generally uniform thoiigli inclining. HVher* 
 the •svaters reiireu, the drain occasioned by rains 
 and springs, were the eonunencenient of our pre- 
 sent rivers, which in the long lapse of ages, have 
 been worndovfnto their present level. Whilst the 
 land continued submersed, fragments of granite, 
 trap, and other rocks, may have been disrupted 
 from their original beds, and gradually forced for- 
 ward, and whilst in motion rounded by attrition, 
 and finally deposited over more recent formations. 
 As the abrasion of the waters in the new formcKi 
 rivers deepened their beds, the debris of primitive 
 rocks became exposed, and rolled down in vast bo- 
 dies along the declivities of the hills. This latter 
 process is I he only part of the great geological re- 
 volution, that continues in operation ; the river 
 beds are daily becoming deeper ; strata that for- 
 merly caused cataracts, are many of thejn com- 
 pleleiy cut by the streams, and all are yielding t© 
 the force of the ever acting fluid, that passes ov«» 
 their broken ledges. 
 
SET. y.] 
 
 VTICA TO TEBKTOJf. 
 
 —13 After reaching the base of the hiil, on the side 
 opposite to that of Uliea, comiiienccs a sandy 
 region, which continues to Trenlon. Tiiiibci' near 
 the latter village, hemlock, beech, sugar maple, 
 elm, ash, and biat k. birch. Though much clcari'd 
 land appears near liieroad, 1 saw hut very liltle 
 winter grain growing in the fields. Demanding of 
 _ some of liie iariabitfiuis tlie reason, of wliat ap- 
 peared to me defective husbandry, 1 unil'ormly re- 
 ceived in rejdy, that the early and unseasonable 
 thaws during tiie winter and spring, destroyed the 
 small grain. How far the opinion of the inhahi- 
 tanls was ibunded oa correct experience, or npon 
 bad farming, I cannot pretend to determine, but 
 am inclined to ascrib;': the effect to the latter cause. 
 My own opinion is formed from t!ie appearance of 
 the soil and timber, and from the geographical po- 
 sition of the country. Hugar maple is hei e so abun- 
 dant, as to form the principal article of fuel used 
 by the inhabitants, and affords them (he means of 
 manufacturing a considerable quantity of sugar, 
 an advantage the benelits of which, they have but 
 partially realized. Ever since passing the Little 
 Falls in the Mohawk, I have noticed tiic constant 
 decrease of every species of oak in (he forests j 
 and since passing Utiea, I have bad still more rea- 
 son to make this remark. This circumstance is a 
 subject of regret, for many of the most indispen- 
 sable uses in domestic economy and agriculture, 
 110 known tree does effectually answer the purpo- 
 ses of oak. Orchards I perceive are rare, and 
 confined almost exclusively to Ihe apple. JN'cither 
 the climate or soil can be ehargahle with (his defi- 
 ciency ; it can only be accounted for in unpardon- 
 able neglect. The setllenients are, in a considera- 
 
■Ci. imi'A TO TP.KSTo?f. [let. y. 
 
 MiLES. 
 
 1."> !)lc part iTef n(, iniprovcmenls will follow tise in- 
 tTCKse of populatioi), wcalll), aud intelligence.* 
 
 * Tlie following is from tliat %'ery valuable citizen Mr. Ray de 
 Cliaiiniont, aiitl was published in the Mercantile Advertiser oftlie 
 city of New-York, Nov. 1 1th, 1818. It will be seen tliat I have the 
 lienor to agree in opinion with Mr. Chaurnont, as to the true rea- 
 son why orchai ds are not more frequent in tlie north-west part of 
 the state of Jvew-York. I do not remember to have ever seen 
 l ondensed in so few words, the various inducements to planting 
 r.nd cultivating orchards, as in this short, appropriate, and judi- 
 (.iou.s address. 
 
 " Extract from an Address, pronounced before the Agricultural 
 Society of Jeffei'son county, at tlieir tirst annual fail-, held at 
 AVatertownj Sept. 29, 1818 — By J. Le Ray de Chauniont, Pres- 
 ident of the Society. 
 
 " To tlicse who have rot been sparing enough of tlieir fencing 
 ■^Tood, I would reconcniend the jilanting of young hemlock to 
 make hedges. I met with such near Pliiladelpiiia, on the farm of 
 Ju>ige Peters, one of the most distinguished agriculturalists of the 
 age, whose example alone must have great weight. 
 
 '■ It was for sonje time doubted by n:ar.y whether this countiy 
 would ever become favorable to tlie growth of fruit trees. It is 
 true, thai in niany places, the fiift attempts were rather unsuc- 
 ccsflul: but as those of a latt r date liavc proved more fortunate, I 
 lielie\e tliat all are convinced this early failure was owing to some 
 tenij.'Oiary canfe. Peihaps it might iiave been found in the na- 
 ture (if that part of the soil that lay quite at the surface. Gene- 
 jall)', to ilie depth of from 6 to 10 inches, it is a black mould 
 made by the annual deeonipesitiun of the leaves of trees and 
 f inal! M gfctnbk'S. 'Phis mould n. ay be too liiglily charged with 
 >(>getftlile matter to atmrd noiiiishment to li nit trees. At any 
 late, ithas been noticed by nianv, that though orchards have 
 pecii planted on such land, and tolally foiled, yet a new attempt 
 ispoii the fame land, after ploughing seveial years and warming 
 tt with animal manure, lias been completely successful. Les 
 this he as it may, it is now well a.scei tained that few countries ia 
 •the world are more congenial to the growth of ihe apple, the 
 ■plumb, n.any species of the chejry, and most oftlie smaher fruitS;, 
 tucli as the stiawberry, raspberry, and curiant, whicJi are found 
 to grew luxuriantly, producing in the greatest abundance. It is 
 jnueh to ie regretted that so many have m giected this subject, 
 .>.ii)C(! the icFuUs of late ex];ei imenls must have eticctiially re- 
 ■jtioved every dov.bt as to the success of future attempts. The 
 fxpeiiBC of planting an orchard is Irivial, compared wiiii its ad- 
 
XET. V. 
 
 ITTICA TO TliENTOrf. 
 
 MILES. ^ 
 
 4 — 17 Memscn, 
 
 A viiip.ge in the riglit bank of "West Canada 
 
 2 — 19 L. IlongWs. 
 
 3 — 23 2'. M. Sheldmis. 
 1 — 23 Eohnan's. 
 
 3 — za Eatcky's. 
 i — 27 Skinners. 
 
 4 — Si. Lounville iivon the head sireams of Black rivert 
 
 vantages, considering it merely as a source of profit. But tiic 
 comfortable luxurj' it affords is of itself a suiFicient inducement ; 
 and I raiglit further add, if necessary, tliat a man of spirit would 
 draw encouragement from Iho circumstance, that a good orchard 
 is the ornament of a farm, and gives the stranger a favorable 
 opinion of the wealth, taste, comfort and economy of the owner, 
 while on the contrai-y, the sight of a farm destitute of these use- 
 ful improvements, gives hir/i the idea of ban enness and indolence. 
 Those who have neglected the planting of fruit trees would do 
 well to visit some of the flourishing orchards at a small distance 
 from this village. There they would receive a lively reproof for 
 the past, and great encouragement for amending in future. Some 
 will regret that the owners of those fine orchards have not extend- 
 ed their industry to the cultivation of peach trees. Why would 
 they not grow here, when many years ago a number of those 
 fruits arrived to their due maturity in one of the most northern 
 positions ill this country, at the old ferry upon the St Lawrence? 
 But 1 must give place to a judicious observation made by an ex- 
 perienced gardener lately come into this country. VVe do not 
 let the the roots of our fruit trees have a sufficient share of cold 
 in the winter. Sometimes, before the ground is sufficiently froz- 
 en to reach the most nutritive roots of our fruits trees, the snow 
 falls, and communicates genial warmth to the earth, which, ac- 
 companied with the melting snow, starts the vegetation too ear!}'. 
 Then come the late frosts, which finding the trees too far ad- 
 vanced, give them a check fatal to their piodnction. The reme- 
 dy offered is to take away in the early part of the winter, the 
 snow which surrounds the more delicate of your fruit trees, the 
 one for instances which produces the peach, so as to let the root:; 
 have their share of the cold. Then let the snow be the cover 
 which will foster this protecting cold till a period more desirable 
 for (he vegetation of the tree." 
 
66 DEEB SIVEK. {lET. V. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 5 — ,36 Sugar rner, 
 
 One of the main branches of Black river, flow- 
 ing Vi'itii great rapidity (o the eastward in the main 
 stream. Secondary limestone, with little admix- 
 ture of shells, and extremely hard, now forms the 
 base of the country. Timber continues as before 
 noted. The country is very billy and broken. Blatk 
 river is in every respect a mountain stream ; the 
 tributary waters which form it flow on each side 
 from very elevated land, when compared with the 
 I bed of the principal river. Hills rising very abruptly 
 range along to the west of the road, and now at 
 near the middle of May, are pouring down floods 
 formed by melting snow, masses of which are fre- 
 quently visible from the road, reminding the trav- 
 eller that the chill of Avinter is not passed. 
 
 S — 38 Village of Leyden, 
 
 2 — 40 Letjdcn Post Office, 
 e — 4,6 House's. 
 
 3 — 49 Gulf creeli, a large braneli of Black river. 
 
 2 — 51 Marlinshurg, seat of justice, in and fop Lewis 
 county. Here I remained over night, and on the 
 morning of May 12th, recommenced my journey. 
 
 4 — 55 Louville. 
 9_6i Wright's. 
 1 — S5 Beer river, 
 
 A considerable and extremely rapid branch of 
 Black river. Its banks and bed schis'ose lime, 
 stone, a ledge of which forms a beautiful cascade 
 within fifty yards above the road, which passes the 
 stream at this place over a good substantial wood- 
 en bridge. The river has worn a deep channel 
 whose banks arc nearly perpendicular. Deer river 
 lias its source in the same ridge of hills, which pro. 
 duces Salmon river. The very considerable falls 
 which occur in both streams, prove the great ele- 
 
3&ET. Vv] 
 
 WATESTOWN- 
 
 67 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — 63 vation of their sources. Salmon river rises, partly 
 in Lewis and partly in Oswego county ; its gcBcral 
 course is, however, in (he lader, running west 
 thirty miles, enters Mexico Bay of lake Ontario, 
 twenty-five miles, a little west of south, from Sack- 
 et's llarb<*ur. Beside a mi mber of cataracts of less- 
 er note, this short river has in one instance, a fall ef 
 upwards of one hundred feet. 
 
 1_66 T. CampheWs. 
 
 3 — 69 Champion Village: 
 
 S — 75 Village of Rutland, TuttWs tavern. 
 
 This village stands upon a bed of schistose 
 limestone, at the foot of a very high and steep hill. 
 The limestone in many places with a veiy slight 
 eovering. Rising the hill above the village, 1 had 
 the pleasure to behold an «>xtensive prospect back- 
 wards over the country towards Ulica. Between 
 Rutland and Watertown, Black river has a large 
 bend or sweep to tlie northeast, and a circumstance 
 worthy of note, is, that both branches of the Os- 
 wegatehie have similar and correspondent bends. 
 This adds another to the numerous proofs afforded 
 by the courses of our rivers, that in their original 
 formation, they were influenced in many instances, by 
 causes which operated over extensive tracts of coun- 
 try, and produced a uniformity which strikes forcibly 
 attentive observers, upon our geological plienoincna. 
 
 «» — 81 Watertown. 
 
 A fine newly built village, on the right bank of 
 Black river, in Jelferson county. A very visible 
 change is now apparent in the soil and timber, and 
 surface of the country. From Utica to Deer river, 
 hemlock swarapsare frequent, much of the road jiass- 
 es these swamps, on causeways or round logs, pro- 
 ducing very tiresome and tedious travelling. Tl»es« 
 
UEOWNVlltE. 
 
 [let. t. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 — Si swamps become rare, since passing Deer river, 
 and before reaching Watertown entirely cease. 
 Oak and hickory now intermixes witli the other 
 species of timber trees in the composition of the 
 forests. Hemlock has become scarce. The super- 
 stratum of the soil, is a black loam, intermixed 
 with rounded pebbles, resting upon a base of strata- 
 fied limestone. Fields of small grain are here 
 visible in every direction, and in many places 
 ■where the stratum of incumbent soil above the 
 limestone, is so scanly as would seem to preclude 
 culture. Good thriving orchards of apple and pear 
 trees also abound. 
 
 At Watertown, Black river has worn a channel 
 into the solid limestone of forty or iiffy feet in 
 depth. The river is about sixty yards wide, and 
 has by far the most rapid current of any river, 
 great or small, that I have ever seen ; it may, 
 indeed, be considered from its source to its mouth 
 as a chain of rapids, interpersed occasionally with 
 placid intervals, which are compensated by falls, 
 of from 10 to 70 feet perpendicular. Biack 
 river is, in point of size, the third stream whose 
 entire course is in the state of Mew- York. The 
 quantity of water in its current at this season, is 
 no doubt, above the medium of its volume, but at 
 all times this stream must, discharge a body of 
 water greater than would be expected from ite 
 eomparalive length on our maps. 
 *— 85 BroKmvilk. 
 
 Leaving Watertown, the road crosses Black river 
 on a fine wooden bridge, and continues to Brown- 
 ville along the bank of Black river, over a bed of 
 limestone, in many places naked rock without any 
 vegetable earth, trees ofien standing upon the 
 smootli surface of the stone, and only prevented 
 
lET. V.j 
 
 BROWNVILrE. 
 
 69 
 
 MILHS. 
 
 -— S5 from falling by extending their roots between the 
 interstices of the rock. 
 
 About half a mile below "Waterlown, the river 
 rushes over a rapid of more than four hundred yards 
 in length. Lined on both banks by precipices of 
 limestone, upon which, the stream impetuous as it 
 is, can make but a very slow impression. Dashing 
 with apparently irresistible force, the rage of (he 
 current is repelled by the rough shelving shores. 
 ■ "Where the road passes near this cataract, the river 
 is one sheet of foam, presenting a scene of grandeur 
 much superior to what would be commonly ex- 
 pected from the supposed diminutive volume of 
 ■water. 
 
 The village of Brownville is indebted for not 
 only its name, but its existence also, to that dis- 
 tinguished American general, Jacob Brown, who 
 has his family residence within its pre.cincts. The 
 village is built upon the right bank of Black river. 
 A cataract with a perpendicular fall of IS or 30 
 feet, opposite the village, has afforded a very eligi- 
 ble site for mills, which has been improved. A 
 substantial wooden bridge has been extended over 
 Black river above the mills. I passed this place 
 in a heavy rain, and had not so good an opportunity 
 of observing its position as I could have desired. 
 From all I could perceive, the village and the ad- 
 jacent country exhibited marks of prosperity and 
 rapid improvement. 
 
 Black river continues below Brownville its ordi- 
 nary rapidity for about two miles, where it is lost 
 in the head of the former bay de Nivernois, a svnall 
 part of which forms the well known Sacket's Har- 
 bor. 
 
 The road after crossing Brownville bridge, winds 
 
sachet's haeboe. 
 
 [let. vr. 
 
 SHIES. 
 
 —85 about three miles down the valley of Black river, 
 then rises upon the flat table laoti, and continues 
 five miles farther over a bed of schistose limestone, 
 to tlte viilrtge of 
 8—93 Socket's Harbor. 
 
 At the time I travelled in this quarter, the public stage 
 stopped at Walcrtown. and travellers were obliged to hire car- 
 I'ia.a^es from individuals. My company and myself \yere able 
 to procure only open waggons ; and as disappointment or 
 any other kind of misfortune seldom eomes unattended, the 
 moment we set out from Watertown, commenced a heavy 
 and eold rain, which continued to fall in tori'ents during our 
 journey of twelve miles to Sachet's Harbor, where we ar- 
 rived chilly, wet and hungry, at a little after 9 P. M. The 
 village affords very good entertainment, and its cheer was 
 never much more welcome tlian to the cavalcade of which 
 I made a part. 
 
 Yours sincerely. 
 
 LETTER TI. 
 Sackel's Harlor, Maij i2tli, 1815. 
 
 Dear Sik, 
 
 BRowNvitiE and Sachet's Harbor, but particularly 
 the latter, have gained both in extent and celebrity by the 
 late war with Great Britain. The residence of the land and 
 naval forces of the United States have been, and continue to 
 be of great advantages to the citizens of Sachet's Harbor. 
 This town stands upon the south-west side of the bay, N. lat. 
 
IBT. YI.] 
 
 sacket's Harbor, 
 
 71 
 
 43", 56*. W. long. 76". from London, or 1». cast of Wasliing- 
 toa ei(j. The bay and harbor are both \vell situated for 
 shelter and defence. It is in some measure, land locked by 
 two large, and some smaller islands, standing in the mouth 
 of the bay eight miles distant to the west, from the Tillage. 
 Cbaumont bay, is an embranchment of the same sheet of 
 water which forms the harbour below the mouth of Black 
 river. Chaumont bay docs not contain as good anchorage, 
 nor does the position of its shores render it so favourable a 
 site, either as a naval, military, op commercial depot as the 
 bay, now known as Sacket's Harbor. The latter is perhaps 
 one of the best situations in the world for ship building. A 
 Marrow and low crescent of land expends from the lower ex- 
 tremity of the village, and forms an inner and outer harbour, 
 the latter within two fathonjs of the shore li.-s depth of wa- 
 ter for the largest ships of the line, that ea i be formed. The 
 vessels can be framed on nearly a level with the v ater, and 
 launched with the greatest ease. The depth of water con- 
 tinues to the mouth of Black river, near wiiich anotlier very 
 exes lent position exists for the construction of slnps either 
 of war or commerce. In each of those places of ship archi- 
 tecture, now lie the hull of a first rate man of war. One of 
 which, at Sacket's, the Nkw-Ouxeans, I have seen. Be- 
 fore seeing this enormous vessel, 1 had no idea of the im. 
 mensity of ship building. Under her stern, I really felt a 
 sentiment of awe, when by an upward glance, I received the 
 wide sweeping and towering arch of her swelling sides. I had 
 seen the Franklin on the stocks, near Philadelphia, and had 
 been frequently on board of that vessel after she vias launch- 
 ed ; I had been on board of the Independence in the harbouP 
 of Boston ; and had ^also seen under sail, the Brilish 74, 
 Plantagenet. All of those ships are large according to their 
 rate, but neither gave me an adequate conception of the 
 immensity of a first rate ship of the line, a conception I 
 never formed, until I traversed, from prow to stern, the 
 Wew-OHeans. Sunk beneath the surface of the water^ th^ 
 
sacket's harbor. 
 
 [iE-B VI. 
 
 liull of a iiae of battle ship when laiincliei!, is concealed, 
 leaving to view her more shewy, but less substantial upper 
 works, but while on the stocks, the Vastness of this intended 
 battery is visible. 
 
 'I'he naval officers have erected an immense frame building 
 over the New-Orleans. Under the shelter of a close roof, 
 her limbers will rather gain in quality than deteriorate 
 by time. She now stands, in silent, but in terrible prepara- 
 tion. A stair way leads from her prow, to the highest part 
 of her stern, ending in a railed balcony wilh seats, from 
 ■which in one comprehensive prospect is included, the town, 
 barracks, harbour and adjacent shores. An ascent to this 
 singular observatory, is amongst the most interesting treats 
 awaiting the traveller to Sackct's. Captain Woolsey, the 
 commodore upon this station, exercises the most laudable 
 politeness towards strangers ; his kindness enabled me to 
 enjoy this, which is one of the most gratifying pleasures of 
 my life. 
 
 Very excellent stone barracks stand upon the bank of the 
 bay. about 400 yards east of the village. The material is the 
 blue schistose limestone, which forms the base of the whole 
 adjacent neighborhood. The barracks are in the form of 
 three sides of a parallelogram, enclosing the approaches on 
 the sidcland, the face towards the bay is open. 
 
 May 14th. 1 had the double pleasure of seeing the bar- 
 racks, and on their parade a review given in honor of gen. 
 Winlield Scott. Gens. Brown, Scott, and their suits were 
 present. The troops made a very respectable appearance, 
 though the weather was unfavorable for their evolutions. 
 
 I would have examined more extensively, the vicinity of 
 Sacket's Harbor, but the season was so continually incle- 
 ment during my stay, that my excursions were necessarily 
 very limited. 
 
 Yours with respect and esteem. 
 
LET.Yll.] 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 IlamiUon, May I9th, 181S. 
 
 Deab Sir, 
 
 I departed fvoni Sacket's llMi'bor on SaUirday lust, and 
 readied this neighborhood on Sundiiy afkn noon. The weath- 
 er during the voyage, and since my arrival, has been very 
 unfavorable for cither extensive or aceiirate observation. I 
 found one circumstance, however, remarkable ; the season is 
 much more forward below than above the 'J'tioosand Islands. 
 From Sacket's Harbor to the entrance into the St. Lawrence, 
 tlie shores presented all the desolation of winter ; the birch 
 was l!ie only forest tree that indicated approaching spring. 
 Tliis backwardness continued unlil we passed the Thousand 
 Islands ; below which, though advancing northward, an evi- 
 dent cliange was visible. The sugar tree, willow, birch, and 
 many shrubs and other vegetables, were in considerabie ad- 
 vance. The fields on the Canada shore, from the greater 
 exposure to the sun, were more advanced than those oppo- 
 site, in New-York, 
 
 I have now seen, and navigated part of the surface of the 
 two most majestic rivers of North America ; and as far 
 as I have observed, no two streams on earth afford features 
 of more marked contrast. Before visiting its banks, 1 had 
 always considered the St. Lawrence as fcomnieneing oppo- 
 site Kingston ; but the current is not perceptible, unlil with- 
 in about ten miles above this village. In many places tlie 
 I'iver, as it is improperly called, is four or five miles wide, 
 and chequered with islands, of infinite variety of shape and 
 size. In fact, it is a continuation of Lake Ontario ten or 
 twelve miles below Ogdensburg, where the true St. Law- 
 rence begins to flow. 
 
 On leaving Sacket's Harbor, the adjacent shores of t!ie 
 main, and those of the islands, are low, and composed of 
 
 G 
 
UlVliU ST. liAWRESCE. 
 
 [lET. VII. 
 
 Vihui in geogiiosfic language, is called floefz limestone, ad- 
 iiiixed y/iih aiiimiil exuviaj. The boi'dei- of the hike is iini- 
 foi iiiiy low, not being clcvulcd above the water more (haii 
 three or four feet ; (he dehris thrown up by the action of the 
 lake, are rounded ]>ebh!es of liniesioncj with a very few 
 fragments of some oilier kind of stone. The timber, sugar 
 tree, pine, linden, elm, oak, (two or three species, though 
 scarce) — bireb, and beech ; soil cxtrwiiely fertile; When 
 at some distance fr om the shore, the high bills near the 
 source of Bhick river, and between Utica and Oswego, are 
 seen far inland. 
 
 'J'his unifoi'mity remains with but little interruption, until 
 the entrance of St. Lawrence ; here the islands are many 
 of them thirty or forty feet elevated above tlie -water. — 
 What is called the Thousand Islands, seenis to be a gra- 
 nite chain whicli crosses the river, and divides its bed into 
 a maze, intricate beyond imagination ; a scene more savage, 
 rude, and ^vild, does not pei'haps any where exist on earth. 
 Tiie piaeid and most purely limpid water, reflects the bro- 
 ken rocks, • and the few trees and shrubs that l ise amid 
 their fractured ruins. No human habitation appears, to en- 
 liven for an instant this picture of eternal waste. Passing 
 this region of silent desolation, a fairy scene opens ; a scene 
 that to me was the more delightful, because unexpected. 
 Where the Thousand Islands terminate, the river opens first 
 into a kind of bay, and theii in two or three miles again con- 
 tracts ; the shore rising on each bank by a gentle acclivity, 
 presents a country I have never before seen equalled, in res- 
 pect either to soil or situation. The Ohio, beautiful as are \ 
 its banks, affords in all its extent, nothing comparable to 
 the banks of St. Lawrence, from the Tliousand Islands to 
 this place. The Canada side is by far the best cultivated, 
 and as I have already remarked, possesses the advantages 
 of more exposure to the sun. For many miles the margin 
 of this river appears like a well ciriliviUed garden. The 
 
33ET. VII.] 
 
 HAMiLTOW, 
 
 75 
 
 American or U. S. shore, exhibits rapid iiiiprovcmenl, and 
 Ogdensbiirgli and tiiis place are fioiirislung new villages. 
 I wiii write you more at large sliordy. Adieu for the pre- 
 sent. 
 
 Maij Wth, ISiS. 
 After enclosing the wiiiiin, and returning (o our camp. 
 Major Fraser arrived, in the evening. 1 accompanied him 
 to this vilhige to-day, and finding that my letter was siili on 
 liand, I opened it, to convey to you and Mrs. Darby, tiie la- 
 test news of my proceedings. Gen. Porter is not yet arrived, 
 but no doubt will in two or three days. Tiic principal sur^ 
 veyor on (he side of Great Biitain, has not arrived, but is 
 hourly expected. We will, perhaps, commence business on 
 the boundary line, in tlie ensuing week. 
 
 The season continues unpleasant, and though rain does not 
 fall in any great quantities, it is fi-equent. The river St. 
 Ijawrence is about two feet perpendicular above its ordina- 
 ry level, and slowly rising, and will no doubt fall as slowly. 
 iVotwi,thsfanding, however, the ciiilly air produced by so 
 much moisture, spring advances daily, and promises a sea- 
 son more pleasant. The atmosphere, and (lie present state 
 of vegetation, have a remarkable resemblance to similar phe- 
 nomena in lower Louisiana, early in March. From what I 
 have seen, I have no doubt but that June and July are here, 
 as every where else in North America, ths most agreeabie 
 months in (he year. 
 
OCIBEASHUncSH. [LET. VIU' 
 
 LETTER Yin. 
 
 Ogdeitslurgh, Jiu;c28, 1818. 
 Yoii iisivc, no doiilif, seen in (ho puiJie ];r;ats some state- 
 iisenis i-especliiig ;i n\au ofihc nanje ol Goiu'Iay, who is now 
 itiakhigu polilk'al tour through the Ciiiiiidas. Tiie tlaj be- 
 foi i! jcsicKiay, a township iiiocling was ealh i! (Jiirotly oppo- 
 site our eaiiip, which tcrminalt'c! in a riot, in which Mr, 
 Goiu-!;ij was sevci-el^' beals'ii. 1 iiavo not bt'cii able to learn, 
 with any t-citainSv, what ohjiet this man has in view; no 
 tioiibt, however, but more is nscant iiian meets the eye. He 
 is not; long iVcni Eiiglant], II' any symptoms tf revolution 
 should appear in these provinces, the exciting cause must be 
 in Europe. Xeilher the popiilation or position of t!ie coun- 
 try, are suili;(l to contend \iith the British Governiiient, un- 
 less tiie other parts of the empire were also in a revolution- 
 ary s(ate. 
 
 Th<! inhahiiarils of Canada appear to be very happy anil 
 contented with their sitiiaiion, and witli their government 
 generally. What they conhl gain by a revolution in the 
 present order of things, I must confess I cannot compre- 
 hend. 
 
 The commerce cai'ried on upon the St. I,awrenee is im-; 
 ^mensely greater than wo in t!:e tniltd States commonly be- 
 lieve. 'I'he single article of lumber must employ very con- 
 siderable numbers. Rafts are passing almost constantly. 
 Flour and many other articles are exported to a very great 
 amount. T'lie entire line of the Canada side of the river 
 IVoni Montreal and even IVom Quebec, is well peopled and 
 cultivated. 
 
 Since writing the above, I have seen a ?-«ational Intelligen- 
 cer, containing some notices of Gourlay, and explaining 
 w ho ho is and from whence he originated. The substance 
 of ibis comnuinieation is no doubt true, and obliges me to 
 
lET. VIH.] 
 
 rOLlTICAt. 
 
 77 
 
 tislieve that, as I have heforc sli'.tod, there is Riorc Ur.ixi 
 meets (he eye in lliis business. The magsstraU's of Uppi^r 
 Canada arc niueh at a loss to know how they osight to pro- 
 eeed.* 
 
 * This embarrassment does not scera to have been removed, 
 ,as wiU be seen by the following extracts from the proceediiigs of 
 the Colonial ieeislature of Upper Canada. Froiii the expressions 
 used by the governor in iiis address, iie has viewed the opci atious 
 of Goiirlay as a serious aftiiir ; and so it may become, if any very 
 coercive remedy is applied. The governor and liis council ex- 
 press respect for the constitutional right of petition, and tiiey are 
 correct in their cautionary proceedings on tliat subject ; any open 
 attempt to abridge the liberty of remonstrance ir.igiit lead to a 
 recuri'ence to the last resource of the oppressed. A law of pre- 
 vention may operate by inliaming the malady it will be iiitendcd 
 10 cure. 
 
 Fork, fU. C.J Oct. 20. The speech of the governor, sir Peri- 
 grine Maitland, on the opening of tiie parliament of Upper Cana- 
 da, contains the following paragraph in relation to tlie coiiven- 
 tion : 
 
 " In the course of your investigation you will, I doubt not, fee! 
 a just indignation at the attempt whiclt has been made to excite 
 discontent, and to organize sedition. Should it appear to you . 
 that a convention of delegates caimof exist without danger to the 
 constitution, in framing a law of prevention, your dispassionate 
 wisdom will be careful that it shall not unwarily trespass oji that 
 sacred right of the sid)ject to seek a redress of his grievances by 
 petition." 
 
 To this passage, t!ie legislative council made the foUowjjig re- 
 ply : 
 
 We shall at all times feel a just indignation at every attempt 
 wliich may excite discontent or organize sedition, and if it shitil 
 appear to us that a convention of delegates canriot exist without 
 danger to the constitution, in fVaming a law of prevention, we 
 will be careful that this shall not, unwarily, trespass on the sacred 
 right of the subject, to seek a redress of his grievances by peti- 
 tion," 
 
 To the same paragraph, the commons house of assembly re- 
 ply as follows ; 
 
 " W,e feel a just indignation at the systematic attemjils that . 
 have been made to excite discontent and oiganize sediiion in 
 this ha])py colony, whilst the usual and constitutional mode oi' 
 appeal tor real or supposed grievances has ever been open to the 
 people of this province, never refused or cveu appealed to. and 
 
 G? 
 
78 
 
 rOLlTICAI,, 
 
 LKT. VIH. 
 
 My opjtorluiiity of o'fserving oidicr (he jsoiilieisl or moral 
 sitiiuljon o!' liie p(N)])'{; (if Ci!i!ii(!ii. has bfen (oo liinidd lo 
 enable iiic to i'onii a vurj coi'reet opinion lijmii tlifir vicv s ; 
 but IVoni all I iuive seen or iifiird, I am inclined to consider, 
 that the temper of the people of Canada is much the sam« 
 as .that of llie inhabilsints of the colonies, which formed the 
 present Uni(ed Si ales, previous to their secession from the 
 parent stale. Whilst Great Britain, continues to exercise 
 jiioderation towards her colonies in Canada, so long her pow- 
 er over them will reuiain unimpaired. Any exerlion of au- 
 thority, !io">evi'r, (hat will in any manner comproniit the 
 rights of (!)c Canadians, will dissolve (he spell, that pre- 
 scripiive habit lias formed between (he rulers and (he ruled. 
 The Jiistory of Great Britain would hardly jusliiy an ex- 
 pectation, that the };o!i(iea! proceedings of its government, 
 will be eonduded prudently, in a!! eases, towards any peo- 
 ple subjected to her power. We would risk li((!e in suppo- 
 sing, lhat some indiscreet ministry will repeat (owards Canada 
 similar folly to (liat which sevei'cd from the inoiher country 
 the United S(a(es. As matters now stand, a serious rupture 
 eannot he expected, nor would be prudent on either side. 
 
 There is another ligiit, in which (he people of Canada of- 
 fer an inteiesting spectaeie to thoBe of the TJni(ed States; 
 that is an approacising Hni{»n or rivaliy. In either case, the 
 ■3at(er people will bi' greatly ail'ectfd by (he former. Thougli 
 speaking the same language, enjoying a similar sys(em of 
 
 deeply lament thattlic iiisidioos designs of one factious individual 
 shoiilil l:av(! succeeded in dj awing into the support of iiisvile ma- 
 chinations, so many honest iiien and loyal subjects to liis majes- 
 ty. We remember that this favored land was assigned to ov.r fa- 
 thers as a retreat for sufl'eiing loyalty, and not a sanctuary for 
 sedilion. In the course of oiu- investigation, should it appear to 
 this house that a convention of delegates cannot exist without 
 danger to the eonstitutinn, in framing a law of prevention, we 
 will carefully distinguish between such convention and the lawfti! 
 act of the subject in petitioning lor a redress ofreal or iniagiiiaiy 
 grievances, that sacjed right of every British subject which v.'e 
 will ever hold inviolable,'- 
 
XET. VIXI.] 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 79 
 
 jufisprudenee, and regulated in (licir {iriv;i(c eondiit* by tlic 
 same religion, jet in poiilieal opinion, a wide (iiiU'rence ex- 
 ists between tiio Canadians and liie people ol" (he United 
 States. In the latter country, one generation has passei! 
 away since the memorable revolution, that gave them na- 
 tional birth ; the men that now act upon the theatre of pub- 
 lie affairs have been bred republicans, and such they are in 
 custom, manners and form. Tlie Canadians have been edu- 
 cated, at the same time, in the highest tone of royally. One 
 party views the trappings of regal pageantry with contempt, 
 the other considers attempered monarchy, as the surest gua- 
 rantee of private right. Both have a strong sense of human 
 dignity, both consider governments instituted for the protec" 
 tion, and not oppression of society ; both feel the amor paf- 
 ria with all its force. 
 
 If Canada was by any means made an integral of the 
 United States, and lilie Louisiana, given a legislative equali- 
 ty in the national councils, the force of the preconceived 
 opinions of its inhabitants would soon be feit. By a singu- 
 lar inconsistency, the men who in our last war with Great 
 Britain, were anxious for a conquest of Canada, were also, 
 as a party, those who had every thing to fear from the ac- 
 complishment of their own wishes. In ease of union, it d<'- 
 mands but little foresight to anticipate the consequence. 
 
 Many citizens of the United States will smile at the sug- 
 gestion of rivalry, between their country ami Canada. For- 
 ty-three years ago, so smiled the ministry of Great Britain. 
 The march of time, and the developement of events, have 
 taught the administration of that haughty government, a 
 lesson of bilter experience. I wish our nation n)ay profit, 
 by one of the Hiost astonishing events in human history; an 
 event that gave it a name on earth, and an event that ought 
 to convince the world, how little dependance tftcrc is in the 
 stability of comparative power. Every year gives me more 
 an^ more scepticism, respecting worldly w isdom. Accident 
 
so 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 [let. Vllt. 
 
 seems (o (iistnib ivr.Ci influence, if not rcgiilate the progress 
 
 oi' lliUiollS. 
 
 The vvoi lc! at (liis Jiioinent, presents very nearly the same 
 evidence liiat has been j^iven by every eouiilry and every 
 age, that visdoiii and ibresight but rareJy have much influ- 
 ence, in producing exiensive rcvolulions. So much depends 
 upon circumstances, i)pyond all our powers of calculation, 
 tiiat in almost every instance of human history, the events 
 liave been productive of consequences, directly contrary to 
 prediction. A few, and a very limited few, have ever pos- 
 sessed talent enough, to forra correct estimates of the real 
 Jjcaring of great commotions among mankind. Effects are 
 t'ontinnallj rnislaken for causes. 
 
 If we date the civilization of those nations from whom we 
 arc descended, and from whom we have derived our arts and 
 opinions, from the discovery of the alphabet, there will he 
 t xhibiled a period of about lliirly centuries of accuiviulatetl 
 experience. Precepts have been deduced from example, 
 \iiili how little fruit (he present moral condition of man, is a 
 melancholy proof. TSiere are many irrefragible reasons, 
 iiov.ever, to convince an unprejudiced mind, that this appa- 
 I'cnt laipi less depression of the human intellect, has been 
 produced from causes Iliat adsnit removal. I be exalted ele- 
 >a(jonof the liiiroiin understanding, in the priacij)!es of many 
 sciences, would warrant the iiiductios!, that if ever the most 
 valuable of all sciences, happiness, tould be duly corapre- 
 lieudcd, ilic means to secure it would become attainable. 
 IJiliierto we have l)ecn taught to consider our social state, 
 ;is a remediless seesie of sufTering. We have bai'tered the 
 « erlainiy cif happiness on eartii, for lessons of metaphysics, 
 upon the principles of which no two of our teachers have 
 «v'cr been of accord. We have given the sw eat of our brow, 
 ■to the nujst idle and isseless of our species, and have received 
 f>(ripcs and contumely in exchange. We have divided our 
 attention hrtween tlie wretchedness of the thousand and the 
 glitter of the one. Our ears have been assailed with the 
 
JiET. Vlll.j 
 
 FOtlTICAt. 
 
 8i 
 
 cries of hunger and slavery, or regaled with the orgies of 
 pampered luxury. 
 
 Let no one deny the truth of the above, and bring tlie 
 United States as an example of its fallacy. The people of 
 the United States form a very small part of the human fam- 
 ily, and are ihsmselves far from being improved to the ut- 
 most, or uhsolutehj secured against retrogradation. They 
 nevertheless afford evidenee of an entire change in opinion, 
 a change against which sceptres and mitres wiH in vain eon- 
 tend. Europe has by no means recovered from the conse- 
 quences of the fall of the Roman Empire. Afflicdng as it 
 may be, it is a fact, there exists not one well coalesced gov- 
 ernment in Europe, except France. No other political as- 
 sociation, but is composed of shreds of heterogeneous ma- 
 terials, either in a state of anarchy or forced connexion. 
 Nothing has appeared to shew that the nionarehs of the 
 day liave any adequate conception of producing any belter 
 state of things. 
 
 It may not be irrelevant to our subject, to view the nations 
 of Europe as they now stand, in relative numbers. To gain 
 any philosophical result, language must be the line of di- 
 vision and comparison ; it is (he only durable mark of dis- 
 tinction. At (his time tliere are in Europe about thirty mii- 
 lions who speak French ; (hirty miliions Vvho speak Gei - 
 !nan and its dialects ; between tliir(y-five and forly nsiiSions 
 who speak Slavonian and i(s diaJecis ; twenty miliions who 
 use the Kalian ; fifteen mii'ions of English ; about an equal 
 number of Spaniards and of modern Greeks. TiiC Turks, 
 lliough in Europe for upwards of 350 years, are still foixign- 
 ers, and few in number. 
 
 It is singular that, except (he Frcnt!:, r,oiie of the nations 
 of Europe are formed out of, and coiilain masses \i!io speak 
 the same language. The political divisions have arose from 
 blind chance, or the people liave been driven togelher by vi- 
 oleiiee. The ail of government, as directed towards it ^ on- 
 ly h'gitiniate ends, tlse security, pioteclion, and instruction 
 
Si poxiTiCAi, [let. ■vixi. 
 
 of the great body of nations, is not even in its infancy ; as a 
 science it exists not. This is a bold, but unfortunately true 
 assertion. The feudal system reigns in all its pristine 
 strength, as far as tkc abstract science of government is con- 
 cerned. 
 
 There appears to have been a curious mixture of supersti- 
 tion and ferocity in the character of the northern nations, 
 who overcame tiie Roman Empire. Either employed in 
 acts ofcruelty, or piety — 'building churches or castles. From 
 this bent of the human mind, has arisen the principle, that 
 produced the present corporate establishments of Europe. 
 Every thing bends either to religion or war. Schools, colle- 
 ges, and academies, are directed either by soldiers or priests. 
 The revenues of the various states, are expended on schemes 
 of ambition, pr paid to men who are worse than idle. 
 
 Whole nations, the same in language, customs, manners, 
 and dress, are kept artfully in a slate of hostility ; such as 
 the Germans, Italians, and now the English. Kations wiio 
 differ in evei'v respect, have no common interest, are stran- 
 gers to each otiier, and who by a difference of language, are 
 prevented from forming any tie of sympatliv, are uniied un- 
 der one monarch ,• such arc the Germans, BoSiemians, and 
 Hungarians ; sucli are the Italians and Germans ; such are 
 the Dutch asid Belgians ; such the English, Irish, and 
 Scotch ; such are She Kussians, Poles, aud Finns, and such 
 are the Turks and mode rn Greeks, 
 
 Witii sucli systems of govei nmenf, can any wonder be c.n- 
 cited that hatred and coniempt should prevail evei-y where. 
 The people are kept in a siate of jsrofound ignorance of 
 their righis, liave long abandoned any conceplion of asserting 
 that, foi' them were al! govcinn;enls instituted, and Inj them 
 ought ail governments to be administered. A liaughly 
 aristocracy, and cringing hierareliy. possess the exeeul'on and 
 fruits of power; the creator of the goods of life, the farm- 
 
 and artisiin, depressed, wretched and poor, have retained 
 
JIET. Till.] 
 
 POlITICAIi. 
 
 the possession of scarce enough of the things they themselves 
 have made, to preserve existence. 
 
 I'he truth of tiiis picture cannot be deniud. It may seem 
 difficult to account for such gross ignorance, such apathy, 
 and such forbearance in sociely ; but wlien the sources from 
 which the instruction of the people are examined, tlic phe- 
 nomenon of their degradation vanishes. That German 
 should be arrayed against German ; Italian against Italian, 
 and English against English, and that the most enlightened 
 nations of the giobe in many other respects, should in the 
 most important of all tiieir concerns, rssoral government, be 
 still in the most barbarous state, cannot excite asfonishuient, 
 when it is known how little has been done to instruct, and 
 how much to brutify man. 
 
 A few, an invaluable few have existed in Europe, who 
 have labored silently to raise the species from their Wretched 
 state, liave endeavored to inspire men with ideas of (heir own 
 dignity, and have been rewarded vfhh persecution from the 
 rulers, and neglect from the ruled. Speculators, i'anovators, 
 infidels, and ail the vocabulary of abuse, have been lavished 
 upon their heads ; even the word pliilosophy itself, has been 
 changed to an epithet, and applied to the most wise and be- 
 nevolent plans. 
 
 The struggle between good sense and power, has continu- 
 ed witli daily increasing violence, since the invention of print- 
 ing. How (his contest is to terminate, it is now difficiilt So 
 predict ,• but such is the powerful aid given to reason by the 
 press, that the best result Uiay be hopjui. The French rev- 
 olution vras nothing more than an effect of tliis long opposi- 
 tion of prescriptive usurpation, against a reiinqHislaiient of 
 power. Those who view tlie triumph of despotism as com- 
 plete, know little of human nature, and less of the ordinary 
 course of things in the world. Every sym[!lu:ii evinces an 
 approaeSiing storm, of pcrhaps'tcnfold u)ore violence, lliaii 
 She one so lately abated. That the potentates of Europe 
 will be compelled to accede to the wishes of their subjects, ancj 
 
rOXlTICAL, 
 
 [lET. VIII. 
 
 participate, ratliei' tlian engross the sovereign authority, or 
 again defend their antique rule by the sword, is vsry cer- 
 tain. "\Vhe(her, after long and reiterated abortive attempts, 
 the gross of society will crouelj to an Asiatic principle of 
 divine right, or succeed in forming more rational, and of 
 course more stable forms of government, will be soon de- 
 termined. 
 
 Upon this approaching whirlwind, the people of the United 
 Slates look with their accustomed indifference, little aware 
 Jiovv much tlseir own affairs must be influenced by the issue. 
 Living under a form of government, liaving many of tlic 
 most seductive features of the feudal system, we are far 
 from having any other guarantee than our own prudence, 
 against the ordinary ill effects that have been experienced in 
 every instance, where that system has been fried. In our 
 state, and confederated governmenis, we are feudal in a liigh 
 degree. If not prevented by a train of extremely fortunate 
 events, our posterity must one day find, that neither similar- 
 ity of language or opinion, can secure them against the con- 
 sequences of ambition, pride and violence. Ficligious or 
 moral precepts, arc l.'ut feeble barriers against the evil pro- 
 pensities of the iuimaa heart. We have, however, two insu- 
 yei'abio advantages, that do more for our security than 
 our so much boasted institutions : — the PRESS and FKEE 
 SUFFRAGE. Whilst legishilors and rulers can be drag- 
 ged before society, and adjudged without evasion, so long 
 wiii our instiiutions remain inviolate, and their provisions 
 applied to the intended purpose ; but vihen tiie right of suf- 
 frage is retrenched, and when, if so deplorable an event 
 ever docs occur in our history, our jiress is subjected to she 
 control of ruiers, tlien, in eriiues, deception, pi ide, and de- 
 gradation ; in insolence and tears, our [\osterisy will eoniinuc 
 10 exhibit the same disgusting picture (hat human nature has 
 afforded, since its acts iiave been iirst put on record. 
 
 There now exisis two English nations, who are, with all 
 their moral reseinblance, poliiically separate, aad opposed 
 
lET. VIII.] 
 
 POHTICAI,. 
 
 83 
 
 fo each other in views of conimeiec and national power ; 
 and to these may be added another, in Canada. And on 
 this continent, may also be repeated the violent contention of 
 two fragments ot a congenerous people. "Whether the rivaliy 
 or forced union, would be the greatest source of mutual in- 
 jury, can scarce be made a question. With a very limited 
 share of forbearance, it would be infinitely preferable, for 
 the happiness of each party, to remain independent ; and 
 should the folly, ambition, or cupidity of either or both, 
 involve them in national disputes, the transitory evil of 
 war, cou!d not be much worse than that of perpetual mis« 
 trust, the necessary consequence of a connection without uni- 
 ty of sentiment. 
 
 Canada, with the other British possessions in North A- 
 Hieriea, exhibit, in one respect, a singular contrast with 
 Iheir former colonics along the Atlantic coast. At the mo- 
 ment of their revolt, the thirteen original states of our con- 
 federacy, extended in a long narroM', and very accessible 
 sirip, nearly parallel to the shores of the Atlantic ocean; 
 The inhabited parts of Cabotia, or British North America,* 
 on the contrary, presents a very confined and unapproacliable 
 front towards the ocean, with an immense line winding far 
 into the interior of the continent. From its local position, 
 if safe from an attack in liank, a mucli less force would 
 be able to defend Canada, tlian was necessary to preserve 
 the independence of the United Stales. 
 
 Presenting, in common with the United States, a long and 
 apparently an exposed and weak line of frontier, yet even 
 «n that side, tlio Canadas have been found very defensible ; 
 but in front, towards the Atlantic, this country would be ex- 
 tremely difficult (o attack successfully. No doubt tlie day 
 is approaching, wbesi a trial must be made, how far this peo- 
 ple are capable of maintaining their claim to nationality. 
 
 * Cabotia, in honor of Cabot the oii{;inal discoverer, is the 
 veiy appropriate name given by the British geographer!;, to the 
 Vast regions claimed upon this continent by the British crowa. 
 
86 
 
 POLITICAft. 
 
 [XKT. VIII. 
 
 You will naturally feel some surprise, at llie lif (le notice I 
 liave taken of the circumstance of the (iiversity of nations, 
 whicli comjjose the population of the Canatlas. In uiy opin- 
 ion, that diversity is not of uiueh consequence, in the view 
 we are taking of tliis country. The descendants of the 
 French do, particularly in Lower Canada, form a large part 
 of the mass of society, hut in Upper Canada, and the east- 
 ern provinces of Nova Scotia and Kew Brunswick, the off- 
 spring or natives of the British islands, are more numerous 
 than all other classes of society taken together ; and in all 
 parts of the British colonies in this quarter, are not only the 
 I'uling but the elBfient people. At present the French are 
 generally passive, tiiough no doubt in a great measure dispo- 
 sed, if any probability of success oflercd, to oppose in con- 
 cert vt'ith the other inliabilants, the British government, and 
 will follow the current of events, flow as it may. Active 
 and galiantiy, as did the French of Louisiana conduct them- 
 selves daring the British invasion of that country, and with 
 all their habitual hatred of tiie Brilish name, I saw enough 
 (0 convince ine, that their conduct would have been very 
 passive, bad not geh. Jackson acted with uncotnnion inspi- 
 ring energy. Indeed, if I know the French character cor- 
 rectly, the very striking contrast it often exhibits, between 
 extraordinary decision and passiveness, is not confined to the 
 descendants of that nation, in either Louisiana or Canada. 
 
 Detesting as I do all conquest, not rendered imperatively- 
 necessary for self security, I would always consider an at- 
 tempt on the pai't of the United States to conquer Canada, 
 as in the highest degree impolitic ; and in any incorporation, 
 without the free consent of the people, excessively unjust. 
 It is a conquest, however, that the Brilish ofliccrs seem to 
 consider an object of national policy, on the part of our 
 government. Mr. Bouchetfe, in his work' on the Canadas, 
 page 491, observes lliat " The views of the United States, 
 " with respect to Canada have been too unequivocally de- 
 " mo:istrateil to leave a shadow of uncertainty, as to their 
 
£ET. IX.] 
 
 POIITICAI. 
 
 87 
 
 <" ultimate object ; and as the preservation of tliis valuable 
 « colony has always been deemed worthy of our strenuous 
 " efforts, we cannot be too miicb on our guard against the 
 
 slow working policy, by which that governnicnt endeavors 
 »' to eompass its ends, or too Iieedful in adopting precaution- 
 
 ary measures to avert a threatening danger, however re- 
 " mote it may at first appear." 
 
 Bouchette is a respectable writer, and a native of Canada j 
 he, it appears, has been, however, either deceived, as it res- 
 pects the real views of the United States, or lie eliarges our 
 government with what, if true, would be gross folly. Cana- 
 da, with all its loyalty, has been rather a charge than a ben- 
 eficiary appendage to Great Britain ; to the republican in- 
 stitutions of the United States, it would be a dead weight. 
 Our empire is already too extensive to be easily governed, if 
 the whole surface was well peopled. An aeeession of terri- 
 tory with reluctant or refractory citizens, would be wor.se 
 than an unprofitable incumbrance. Adieu. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Ogdenshurgh, Jnhj iTili, 1S18. 
 
 I>EAR SiH, 
 
 The Commissioners are advancing with tlic survey of tiie 
 St. Lawrence river, and its islands, in order to designate the 
 boundary line, between the United States and Upper Canada. 
 The operations of last year terminated about a miJe above 
 Ogdcn's Island, opposite the village of Hamilton, where we 
 wmmcneed this season, and have progressed to a little above 
 
S3 
 
 KIVEn ST. I..i\YKENCfc. 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 this village. The survey is contliioted wilh great precision, 
 but with a consequent slowness, that is extremely incompat- 
 ible witli my views, and induces nio, together with some oth- 
 er reasons, to quit the business and proceed on a (our to the 
 westward, through New-York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michi- 
 gan, and Upper Canada, I expect to set out in the Steain- 
 Boat to-morrow, on my way to Sacket's Harbor, and Buffa- 
 lo, and Detroit. 
 
 1 have already menlioncd to you, in a former communica- 
 tion, that the St. Lawrence, properly spcakiu};, commences 
 near this town, as above this place a very slight current is 
 perceptible. I have been engaged in surveying the Gallop 
 rapids and isJands, at the head of which the strong currents 
 first eomraenccs. A map of this very curious group is en- 
 closed, w hich will serve to exhibit the peculiar construction 
 of the Si. Lawrence islands. 
 
 ■Wiieuevcr I attempt a general or detailed description of 
 this beautiful river, I feel the difficulfy of (he undertaking, 
 from i(s dissimilarity to any other stream wiih which you 
 arc acquainted. I doubt indeed, if it has any near parallel 
 upon our globe. Though I may not succeed in giving you 
 any very precise conceptions of i(s more niinu(e foa(urcs, I 
 hope lo place before you such a picture of i(s general physi- 
 ognomy, as will enable you, with your accustomed force of 
 fancy, to form an adequate idea of i(s grca{ oudine. Though 
 in compliance wilh (he common nsode of expression, I call 
 (he St. Lawrence a l ivcr, yet according to the principles laid 
 down, when speaking of the Hudson, (he fonner stream 
 would he more correctly a strait, uniting (he great lakes to 
 the Atlantic ocean, than a river, in the sti'ict meaning of 
 that term. Since my arrival on the boundary, I have seve- 
 ral (iiueshad arguments with different members of (he com-, 
 mission, respecting tlse comparative volume of (he St. Law- 
 rence atul (lie Mississippi rivei s. In my s(a{is(ics of Louis- 
 iana, I have calculated (he quan(i(y of wa(er discharged by 
 (he ■^llssiHsi|ipi ; I shall now for your saiisfaction institute a 
 
LET. IX.J 
 
 ST. LAWEEJfCE RiyElt. 
 
 general estimate of, and comparison between tlios;' (wo great 
 JVorih American rivers. J have already i)reiiiise(l that 
 when speaking of (he c)ii:intit.y of water in, or land di'uined 
 hy the Mississippi and Si. Lawrence rivers, all (he country 
 js meant, which is watered hy their tributary hriinches. 
 
 The following (able exhibits (he area of the different sec- 
 dons of country, drained by the St. Lawrence. 
 
 TABLE 
 
 THE SUPEEFICIES, DEAINED BY TllS 
 
 •ALLEY OF THE ST. LAW- 
 
 EE?;CE MVJiR. 
 
 Region lying N. W. of Lake Superior, 
 do. north-east of da. 
 
 Nortii of Lake Hiiroii, asid west of 
 the sources of the Ottawas river, 
 
 Peiiiiisiila between Lakes Huron, 
 Erie, and Ontario, 
 
 STorth-vVest of St. La\¥reiice, belojv 
 the sources of the Ottawas river, ' 
 
 Total area N. VV. of St. Lawrence, 
 
 Region N. E. of tlie St. Lawrence, 
 from its mouth to that of the Rich- 
 elieu, .... 
 
 *rriang!e included between Black; St. 
 Lawrence, and Riclielieu rivers, 
 
 South of Lake Ontario, west of 
 Black river, ... 
 
 South-east and south of Lake Erie, 
 and east of iVIauniee river. 
 
 Peninsula of Michigan, 
 
 West of Lake Micliigan, and soutii 
 of Lake Superior, 
 
 Total south-east and south-west, - 
 
 Area of Lake Superior, 
 Hinon, 
 Michigan, 
 
 Erie, - - -•■ , 
 Ontario, 
 
 Allowance for the area of St. Law-' 
 rence river, and the smaller lakes, 
 
 ( 
 
 H 
 
 Medial 
 Leiistl). 
 
 300 
 
 400 
 
 MeJia! 
 Bre idtli 
 80 
 80 
 
 A j-ra 
 Sq. Mili.'S. 
 , 24.000 
 32,000 
 
 200 
 
 200 
 
 40,000 
 
 200 
 
 80 
 
 1 6,000 
 
 •700 
 
 220 
 
 154.000 
 
 
 
 266.>,()a 
 
 500 
 
 SO 
 
 25,000 
 
 230 
 
 50 
 
 15,500 
 
 200 
 
 80 
 
 16,000 
 
 300 
 2iu 
 
 30 
 ISO 
 
 0,000 
 37,500 
 
 400 
 
 120 
 
 48,000 
 
 
 
 lii, .,0 
 
 
 
 418,.)00 
 
 300 • 
 
 280 
 
 270 
 
 250 
 
 ISO 
 
 100 
 J 00 
 50 
 60 
 40 
 
 30,upo 
 
 2o:,ooo 
 
 13,500 
 15,000 
 7,200 
 
 1,500 
 
90 
 
 MISSOUKl EltEUi- 
 
 [iBT. IX. 
 
 SU3IMAEY. 
 
 Square Milcs^ 
 
 Total areii uorth-west of St. Lawrence river, 2e6>000 
 'i otiil south-east and soiitli-west of do. - 152,000 
 Total eOYCroi! v/ith v.atei', ... 87,200 
 
 Total area of St. Lawrence yajley, 
 TABLE 
 
 OF thb; supeeficjes, 
 
 DRAINED ]5Y TUB MlSSISSIFl'I 
 TAllV BRANCHES. 
 
 605,200 
 
 And its twbc- 
 
 Taliey of Oliio, ^ . . 
 do. of tiie Mississijipi proper, 
 above the iiioutli of iitissouri, 
 do. of the Wissouri and its con- 
 
 tluenls, - - . . 
 do. of Ai'kaiisaw river, 
 do. of Red River, 
 Narrow sirij) east of the Mississip- 
 pi, and below the inoutii of Ohio. 
 Valleys of White and St. Francis 
 rivers, - _ . . 
 
 Total area of the Mississippi val- 
 
 Medial 
 Length, 
 700 
 
 Medial 
 breatllli. 
 300 
 
 Area 
 Sq. Milcs\ 
 206,000 
 
 750 
 
 300 
 
 225,000 
 
 1350 
 
 500 
 
 575,000 
 
 1 100 
 
 100 
 
 1 lfl,000 
 
 1900 
 
 100 
 
 1 00,000 
 
 400, 
 
 70 
 
 28,000 
 
 200 
 
 250 
 
 50,000 
 
 
 
 l,394,OCO 
 
 Before leaving New-York, and when employed in writing 
 the Emigrant's Guide, I carefully measured and calculated 
 the respective superficies, drained by the St. Lawrence and 
 Mississippi rivers, the former came so near to 500,000 
 square nii'es, that I assumed (hat area in round numbers, 
 re-moasuring the same stream by sections, the result is, as 
 you perceive. At tlie same period I also measured the Mis- 
 sissipi, and found its area varied so liftle from l,i00,000 
 s<3uare miles, that I assumed that number as sufficiently ac- 
 eurate for general purposes. Calculating ngain by sections, 
 I fyund l,39i,000 square miles. From these various esti- 
 
lET. IX.] KIVEU ST. 1.4WEENCE. %i. 
 
 mates, I am confii3cnt that neither of these surfaces are es- 
 sentiaily ineorreci, ais fur as our mnps arc entiikui to con- 
 ftdence. 
 
 The autline of the two streams are rcsjwcfivciy as fol- 
 lows : (hat of the St. Lawrence .3,500, that of the Missis- 
 sippi S,600. Of these ilisfar.aes tlie two rivers have inter- 
 locking branches, from the iiead of liie AHegany branch of 
 Ohio, to tiic sources of the Mississippi and Lake Superior, 
 which following tlie sinuosities of thsj dividing line, stretch 
 along 1,.S00 miles, 
 
 llising from the same vast (able land, and having such ex- 
 tended connexion, it is siu'cly worthy of romark. that no 
 twrt rivers oa earth so essentially differ in their genei'al 
 features, as do the Mississippi and St. Lawrence. The for- 
 mer is turbid, in many parts to muddings, the latter unequal- 
 ly limpid. One river is composed of an almost unbroken 
 chain of lakes, the other in all its vast expanse, has no lakes 
 diat strictly deserve the name. Annually, the Mississippi 
 overleaps its bed and overwhelms the adjacent shores to a 
 great extent ; an accidental rise of three feet in the course 
 €f fifty years, is considered an extraordinaiy swell of the 
 ■waters of St. Lawrence ; this circumstance has occurred 
 the present season, for (he first time within the lapse of for- 
 <y years past. The Mississippi flowing from north to south, 
 passes through innumerable climes ; whilst its rival, winding 
 from its source in a south-east direction to near N. lat. 41, 
 Snrns gradually north-east, and again flows into its original 
 «limate of ice and snow. The Mississippi before its final 
 discharge into the gulph of Mexico, divides into a number 
 of branches, having their separate egress; (he St. Law- 
 s'ence imperceptibly expands to a wide bay, which finally 
 «pens into the gulph of the same name. The banks of (he 
 Mississippi present a level, scarce rising above (he superior 
 surface of that stream ; those of the St. Lawrence, by a 
 gentle acclivity, exhibit the opposing sides of an elegant ba- 
 sin. Much of the surface, watered by (he Mississippi, is ;i 
 
93 
 
 KIVER ST. XAWKEiVCE. 
 
 [lET. IX. 
 
 i'.?gio!j (jf _e;!'ass, wiiero f«w shrubs or d ecs rise lo Itrealt 
 titc tUill monoiony of ilie fuce of (he (.'arlli ; the shores that 
 hound (he S(.,Lawi'fnce are, wlu'n in a state ul' nature, eov- 
 *:vL'i\ \vi(h an almost tontimious anil impervious forest. And 
 last, though rather an accidental than a natural distinction, 
 (he Mississippi rolls its nsighty volume, swelled hy mora 
 than a thousand rivers, throiigli one empire, and is, as I once 
 before ohserved, " tiie largest stream on this globe, whose 
 entire course lies vviihin ona sovereignty." The St. Law- 
 rence is, foi' more than thirteen hiiiKlred uules, a national lisn- 
 it, and as such, marked with the sanguinary points which dis- 
 linguisli the hounds of rival power. Botli rivers have a 
 name in the hearts of (he jieople of the United States, upon 
 both have their arms been wreathed with never fading lau^ 
 reJs. 
 
 Mr. Bouehelte, page 32 of his topograjihical dcseriptioa 
 of Canada, conurienees a description of St. Lawrence, which 
 from the extensive local knowledge of this author, is no 
 doubt the best notice of (his river that has yet been publish- 
 ed to the world. I am ignorant whether you have read Mr. 
 Eouelictte's statistics or not ; from its voluminous size, it is 
 a scarce and expensive ViOrkinthe United States. As it 
 would not be in my power to give so extensive, or except in 
 a small part, so accurate a picture of this remarkable 
 stream, I have sent you a copy of Mr. Bouchette's deserip- 
 lioH, with occasional notes from myself, which together will, 
 I trust, convey a tolerable comprehensive view of the most 
 si.ngular object in Koi th American hydrography. 
 
 " I'he l iver St. Lawrence, (which from its first discovery 
 in 1565, lias been called by the inhabitants of the country, to 
 mark its pre-eminence, the Great river,) receives nearly all 
 the rivers, which have their sources in the extensive range 
 of mountains to the northward, called the Land's Height, 
 that separates the waters falling into Hudson's Bay still fur- 
 tlier to the north, from those that descend into the Atlantic | 
 and all those that rise in the ridge wliich commences on its 
 
JfcET. IX.] EIVEn ST. jLAWIiESCE. 93 
 
 southern bank, and runs nearly soiU'i-vvcsier'y, until it I'.slis 
 Tij)on Lake CSjanipJain. Of (hese. (he ppiiieipa! ones are tho 
 OUav/a, Musquinonge, St. lyaiirice, St. xinn, JafSjiies Cur- 
 tier, Sagueiiay, Betsiaaiiites, and Alarsieouagan on the nunii j 
 and (lie Salmon river, Chateaiigay, Cliamhly or KicheHeu. 
 Yaniaska, St. Franeisi Becaneoar, Du t'/hene, Chatidiere. 
 and Dil Loup, on the south. In diiferent parts of s(s eossrse 
 it is known under different appellations ; Ih'n, as high up 
 from the sea as Montreal, it is called St. Lawpcnce ; IVom 
 Montreal to Kingsfon in Upper Canada, it is called tiio 
 Cataraqni, or Iroquois ;* (Cataraqtii was (he liidiu-i name 
 for the river Iroquois, the name given by (he Frent h (o (ho 
 six nations) between hike Ontario and lake Erie, it 'is cal- 
 led Niagara river; between lake Krie and lake Sf. Clair, 
 the Detroit ; between lake St. Clair and lake iIui'o;i, the 
 river St. Clair; and be(\veen lake Huron and lake Supe- 
 rior, the distance is called (he Sarron s, or (he fiilip of St. 
 Mary forming thus an unin(errijpted eonnexion of 2000 miles. 
 Lake Superior, without (ho aid oi" any greai effiis-t oT iiiiagi- 
 nalion, may be considered as (he inexliaustihle spring from 
 whence, through unnunihered ages, (he Hi. Iji'.wreaee has 
 eon(inued to derive i(s ample sirctun. 1 aiii net aware (hat 
 the source of this river has (!ius hceij de.fined hol'ore ; Itiit ex- 
 amining (he usual mode of tracing large rivers froin (heir 
 heads to the estuaries, I venture to h'.'lieve (hat I am warran- 
 ted in adopting the liypoJhesis. This imnieBse lake, nne- 
 «[Ua!led in magnitude by any eoUei-.tiiHi of fresii water on (he 
 globe, is almost of a (rianguhir forsn : i(s gre:i(est length 
 381, its breadih 161, and its tiretiuifercnce lidle less than 
 
 * Col. Ogilvie, (lie Britis'i commissioner on tlic bomulaiy, in- 
 foi-med the autiior of tiicse letters, thrtt in the old I'eeils to laiui 
 f^ranted by the French, soon after tli<;ir s<>ttlemeiit i:i C'ar.ad.,. 
 liie now Ottawa was then called the St. Lavvrenr.e ; but ci;.s- 
 tom has changed this nouienclature. The Ottawa has rcassiiitied 
 |ts Indian name, wldlst Cataraqin has been superceded by tis'-; 
 French term St. Lawrence. 
 
 H 2 
 
94 
 
 lAKE SUPERIOH. 
 
 [let; 1%, 
 
 1152 niiSos ; and as peniuikable for the unrivalled (ratispa- 
 rciicy of i!s waters, as for its cstraordinury depth. Its 
 r.oitbcra coast, indented ^vith jnany extensive hays is high 
 and rot ky ; hut on the suiUlicrn shore the hiiid is generally 
 low and Jcvel ; a sea aliiiost of itscH", it is subject to many 
 vicis'situdes of liiat elenient, for iiere tfie storm rages, and 
 the hiliovvs break with a violence scarcely surpassed by the 
 <e!i!p4»ij(s of the ocean. In (he distant range of mountains 
 that forms the Land's IJeiglit, bejoiul its northern 
 and wesiern shores, several considerable rivers, and nu- 
 merous snsai! ones have tluii- rise, which being increased in 
 thi-ir course by many siuall lakes, finally discharge them- 
 selves info lidi.0 Superior. To the soutliward also iJiere is 
 atjotlier lofty range, dividing the waters that find their way 
 to (he Gulf of Me.\ico, through the cliannel of the Mis- 
 sissipjii, from those (hat take a northern course into the 
 great Jiiko J so t'lat i(s vastncss is increased !)y the tr ihuta- 
 jy slreams of more (ban thirty rivers. On i(s north and 
 iior!h-east sides there are several islands, oi which one, call- 
 ed Isle Hoyale is the largest, being one hundred miles long 
 and for(y broad. Out of Lake Superior a very rapid cur- 
 rent is interrupted and broken by several susall islands, or 
 rather huge uuisses of l oi'k, through a channel of twenty- 
 seven iuiies in lengih, at (he end of which it ilows into lake 
 Huron. The Falls of St. Mary are nearly midway betwc(-a 
 the t«o lakes ,• this denoniinafion, (hougli generally given, 
 hutlitile accords wi(h (he usual appclLTtion of Falls, as ap- 
 plied to liie descent of large bodies of water preeipi(atcd 
 from great heights, that so fretjuendy occur on the rivers of 
 America ;* for in (his place, it is only (he impetuous stream 
 
 * The French term, sazit, literally jump, or leap, from the 
 verb saltier, io jiniip oi- leap, asiswei s rather to the English noiuj 
 rapid, ilinii to an actual ])erpendiel!'n,r /£;W of water. Tlie French 
 noim chute, is indiffer ently a])piied to either B.j'all or rapid, but 
 iil.<^o, more correctly to tlie latter; cataract signifies the same 
 tense in both languages. 
 
lET. IX.J 
 
 XAKE KtROX. 
 
 95 
 
 of (he enormous discharge from lake Superior, forcing its 
 way through a confined channel, and breaking wi(h pi opor- 
 (ionate violence among the impediments that nature has 
 thrown in its way ,• yet this scene of tumult nous and un- 
 ceasing agitation of tire waters, combined with the noise and 
 dazzling whiteness of the surge, is not deficient either in 
 grandeur or magnificence." 
 
 *' Lake Huron, in point of extent, yields but little to Lake 
 Superior, its greatest length from west to east is 218 statute 
 miles ; at its western extremity it is less than one hundred, 
 and at about one hundred miles from its eastei'n shore, bare- 
 ly sixty miles broad ; but near the centre it suddenly bends 
 away southward, to the breadtii of one hundred and eighty 
 miles ; measuring the circumference through all its curva- 
 tures, will give a distance of little less than 813 miles j in 
 shape it is exceedingly irregular, yet, with a little assistance 
 from fancy, may be fashioned info something like a triangu- 
 lar. From its western side an extensive scries, called the 
 Manatoulin Islands, stretches in an easterly direction for one 
 hundred and sixty miles ; many of them measuring from twen- 
 ty to thirty miles in length, by ten, twelve, and fifteen in 
 breadth, on some of which the land rises into elevations of 
 considerable height. Besides this great chain, there arc 
 many others of inferior dimensions, numerously gvoupt'd in 
 various parts, rendering the navigation intricate, and in sonsc 
 places, and particularly towards the west end, dangerous. 
 On this lake also, the navigation is often assailed by violent 
 storms, attended with thunder and lightnisig, more terrifsc 
 than in any other part of North America. At the western 
 angle of lake Huron is lake Michigan, which, alihough 
 distinguished by a separate name, can only be considered as 
 a part of tiic former, deepening into a bay of '26'Z miles in 
 length by sixty-five in breadth, and whoso entire circumfer- 
 ence is 7:31 miles. Between it and Lake Huron there is a 
 peninsula (hat, at the widest part, is 150 miles, along which, 
 and round the bottom of Michigan, runs part of the chain 
 
96 
 
 i,AKKs HUHosr ASD MicnieAK; [let. IX, 
 
 forn)ing the Land's Ileiglit, to the soiUliward ; trom whence 
 dcseersd liiany large and niuneroiis iiifei-ioi- slrear.is that dis- 
 ciiarge imo it.* On the noi fh side oi' luke Huron, many 
 rivers oi" considerable size run fiom the Land's Height 
 down to if. One oi' them, called French river, communi- 
 cates with lake Nijiissing, from whence a succession of 
 smaller ones, conneefed hv short portages, opens an inter- 
 course v^ith the Ottawa river, tliat joins (lie St. Lawrence 
 near Montreal. ]" Ou the east-era exircniify of the lake is 
 
 *The peninsula urtwecn !a];cs SliciiiRiin, Hiu'on, St. Clair and 
 Erie, and tlie l ivci-s St. (.'iaii- fuid I)eti-oit, now forms the Michi- 
 gan ^i'crritory. Jt is confidentlj asserted by many, tliat, at high 
 floods a conjinmiication docs exist between lake Mitliigaii a;id 
 Illinois rivcu. If this assumption be well .(bunded, it affords one 
 of the most astonishing bydiograpliical anon)alies on earth. IS 
 lias long since been delennined tiiat the surface of lake trie is 
 553 feet above the level of tide water in the Hudson river at Al- 
 bany. The diui rer.ce of level hetween Ia!;es Kite and fdicliigau 
 by the descent of the rivci s, Detroit and St. Clair, eaiinol exceed, 
 twontv-iiiiie feet, if so much: I>etroit is 26, and St. Clair river 
 32 miles in length, and allowing six inches per mile for the pei- 
 pentlicuhir fail ot ijotli rivers, is an ample eslimate of their ag- 
 gregate descent. This com])»tation would yield 5S4 feet HS the 
 elevation of the surfsice of lakes Huron and Michigan above the 
 Atlantic tides^ and if the hvpothesis be founded oh correct data, 
 of a ouiiler ciurent frojn the ]l'ii]ois river into Michigan lake, 
 fuul vice versfi. then the point of separation oftho.se currents i.«; 
 equi e'evrited alios e the levej of the' gulfs of St. Lawrence and 
 iViexico, and would divide tlds conlinent into two vast though uii- 
 Cfjual island.';, Baron lluinboldt has established the fact of the 
 exi.<-te!;i e of a sind'c.i- interioeutory cortminnication between the 
 v.,'^lor.s of ll'.e Oi'tjunco and .Amazon rivers; and I have in these 
 letters, upon the respectable authority of Mr. Isaac Briggs, pub- 
 lished the ff\tt thai the waters of the Upper Mohawk do, wiieii 
 sncricd hy tieods, flow partly down the M.ohawk and partly dowi? 
 the Oneida ri\ ers. 
 
 + II Ims ah' ady been stated, upon the autlioritv of Col. Ogif-, 
 vie, U'.at the original French term St. Lawrence was continued 
 above Montieai'by the stream of the Ottawa. Mr. Bouchette 
 unt(pdv(].-a!ly cstabi!.slies the transpositiuii of names, to which I 
 iiave betore alluded , 
 
 'i he ^^n is a ver}' large and impetuous stream flowing out 
 of the inouiUiiiiis viiich wind noitli of lake ^luroH. The gcneiif 
 
JtET' IX.] EIVEES OTTAT/rX AlfD SAGtfElfAT.- 
 
 the Machcdash river, whieh, though another succession of 
 lakes, sepjiriUed only by one short portage, establishes a 
 comnuinicaiion by lake Siinooe, Holland river, and Yonge- 
 
 eourse of the Ottawa is tolerably wel! known, as t!ie traders from 
 Montreal frequently follow that river iii prosecuting tlieir voyages 
 to the north-west. For the distance of thi-ee hundred miles from 
 its source, the course of the Ottawa is south-east, to where it ap-, 
 proaclies within sixty miles of Kingston in Upper Canada ; it 
 then assumes a course a little north of east, and ilowing in that 
 direction about 200 miles joins the St., Lawrence by the lake of 
 the Two Mountains above Montreal. The volunse contai* ed in, 
 and discharged by the Ottawa, is iniinense; few if any rivers on 
 earth of an equal length equal this stream in quantity of water. 
 It is extremely interrupted by rapids and fails, frequently che- 
 quered by islands and dilated into lakes of a considerable extent. 
 Settlements have been made upon the Ottawa along both banks 
 between 100 and _2bO miles above its mouth ; much of the soil is 
 very fi^rtile, and supplied with inexhaustible forests of various 
 kinds of timber. 
 
 It has been generally believed that the Ottawa was the largest 
 branch of St. Lawrence, but Mr. Bouciiette gives that rarikto the 
 Saguenay ; his description of the latter river is in the following 
 words : " The river Sugumay, whieb discharges itself ir.to the 
 St. Lawrence, at Pointe aux Mlomttes, is tiie largest of all tb.e 
 streams that pay their tribute to tlse Great river. It draws its 
 source from lake St. John, a collection of waters of considerable 
 e.xpanse, lying in N. lat. 48" 20' VV. long. 7'2.° 30' receiving ma- 
 ny large rivers that flow from the north and northwest, from an 
 immense distance in the interior, of which the PieCougarais, the 
 Sable, and the Pariboaca are the principal ones._ At its eastern, 
 extremity two large streams, one called the Great Disebarge, and 
 the otjier the Kinogami, or Land river, issue from it ; whieb, af- 
 ter flowing about 57 miles, and encompassing a tract of land of 
 the mean breadtii of twelve miles, unite their waters, and become 
 the irresistible SAGUENAY; from whicli point it continues its 
 course in an easterly direction for about 100 miles down to She 
 St. Lawrence. The banks of this river throughout its course are 
 very rocky and immensely high, varying from 170 even to 340 
 yards above the stream. Its current is broad, deep, and uncom- 
 monly vehement. In some places where prpcipices intervene, 
 there are falls from fifty to sixty feet in height, down which the 
 whole volume of the stream rushes with indescribable fury and 
 tremendous noise. The general breadth of the l iver is fioin two 
 miies and a half to three iniles. but at its mouth the distance is 
 e©ntracted to abont one mile. The deptii of tliis enormous 
 
98 
 
 KIVEU SAGBENAY. 
 
 [lET. IX. 
 
 street, with the town of York, now called the capital of Up- 
 per Canada ; lliis route would most materiallj' shortca the 
 distaneo between the upper and lower lakes, and is capable 
 of such itnprovement, as would rendcrit highly beneficial to 
 Upper Canada,* a subject that will be hereafter adverted to. 
 
 stream is also extraordina.ry. At its discharge, attempts have 
 been made to find its bottom, with five hundred I'athoms of line, 
 hilt without effect ; about two miles l)iglier up, it has been repeat- 
 edly sounded irom on?, hundied and thh'tv to one hundred and 
 forty fathoms ; and from sixty to seventy miles from tiie St. Law- 
 rence, its depth is found from fifty to sixty fathoms The course 
 of the river, notwithstanding its magnitude, is very sinuous, ow- 
 ing to many projecting points from each shore. The tide nnis 
 about 70 miles up it, and upon account of the obstructions occa- 
 sioned by the numerous promontories, the ebb is much later than 
 in the St. Lawrence: in consequence of which, at low water in 
 the latter, the force of the descending stream of the Saguenay is 
 felt for several miles. Just within the mouth of the river, oppo- 
 site to Pointe aux Allouettcs, is the Iiarbor of Tadoiissac, whicli 
 is very well slieltercd by the suirounding high lands, and iias 
 good anchorage for a great number of vessels, of a large size, 
 where they may lie in perfect safety. On tiie northei ii shore of 
 the St. Lawrence, and at many places on the Saguenay, there 
 are stations for trading with the Indians for peltry, and for carry- 
 ing on the whale, sea!, porpoise, and salmon fishery ; lliese are 
 known by tlie name of King's Posts, and are now let, with all 
 their privileges, to tlie North West Company at Quebec, on a 
 lease at a thousand and twenty-live pounds per annum. An es- 
 tablishment is maintained at Tadoussac, at Chicoutami, on the 
 Saguenay, at Lake St. John, at Los isles de Jerimie, near Betsia- 
 mills point, at the Seven islands, i)eyond Cap des RIonts Peles, 
 and at Cap des Monts. At those towards the .sea tiie fisheries 
 are pursued during the summer, and at the interior ones the fur 
 trade is carried on witli the Indians during the winter. About 
 the trading post at ('hicoutaini the land is tolerably fertile, and 
 the timber oi'a superior quality. In the little agriculture that is 
 here paid attenliun to, it has been observed that grain ripens 
 sooner tiian it does in the vicinity of Q;;ebec, although the situa- 
 tion [of the former p'ace] is much further to the northward. 
 Another of the many anomalies that distinguish the climate of 
 Canada." [liouchette's Canada, page 563-566. 
 
 * In the progress of population along the border of the Cana- 
 dian lakes, an open water route fi'oni New-York to the eastern 
 (angle of lake Huron, will no doubt be formed, and wall more ?e- 
 
lET. IX.] 
 
 RIVES ST. CiilH, 
 
 90 
 
 From the exlremify of Lake Huron to the Southward, tlie 
 
 course of '.he waters are (',0Btr;s!ite«3 into a river (called St. 
 Clair's) that flow b«twccn mcdi'rr.teJy high banks, adorned 
 by Biany natural beauties for a distance of sixty miles.* near- 
 ly duo south, when it again expands into the SEiaii Jake St. 
 Clair, aliuost ciroidar in form, its diameter about SO aiiles, 
 and ahoEt 90 in circuit, too diminutive, when eomparcd witli 
 the pi-eecding ones, (and not beins; otherwise remarkable) 
 to demaQd a further description. Out of this lake the wa- 
 ters agaiS) assume the form of a river, (called Delroil) con- 
 tinuing ihe same southerly course for 40 milesf into Lake 
 Erie ; its stream is divided into two channels from space to 
 
 riously affect the course of commerce in that quarter, than any 
 improvement within liuman power, after that of the Grand Ca- 
 nal in the state of New- York. From the post of JMichilimakinac 
 to York in Canada, by lakes Huron, Erie, and Niagara river, is 
 650 miles, whilst it is only 350 miles between those two points by 
 lake HnroM and the intended canal by lake Simcoe, How far 
 the intervening country between lakes Ontario and Huron, is fa- 
 vorable to tlie formation of a canal, I am uninlbrmed, but am in- 
 clined to believe that there does not exist any very serious im - 
 pediment to such an enterprize. Every thing else equal, Ihe in- 
 habitants on the north side of the Canadian sea have against 
 them a difficulty suflicient to prevent a successful ccmpetition 
 with their more southern rivals; that is the climate. This is a 
 circumstance affecting the comparative advance of the two coun- 
 tries which must remain unchanged for ever, maugre all human 
 •efforts. If an equal share of active enterprize in the great body 
 of the people, and equal protection to person and property in 
 their government distinguishes the contiguous states of the Uni- 
 ted States, as the British Canadian Provinces, the progress of the 
 former must he more rapid than the lalier. Tlie resoui ccs of 
 both are, however, immense, and demand for deveiopement only 
 the energetic application of their increasing means. 
 
 * The distance is here over-rated considerably. From actual 
 survey, it is less than forty miles from the bottom of lake Hui'on 
 into lake St. Clair. This subject will be more particularly no- 
 ticed in the sequel of this treatise. 
 
 t This distance is also stated too large, as will be seen by re- 
 ference to that part of this correspondence relating to Detroit 
 and its environs. 
 
109 
 
 ■liAKB EE IE. 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 space, by ishuids of various sizes, (he largest being about 
 ten miles long. On the east side of tiiis liver (he prospect 
 is diversified and agreeable, displaying some of (lie beauties 
 of an exiiborant soil, aided by a very respectable state of 
 ciil(ivation, and enlivened by the oheeiful appear anee of set- 
 tlements and villages, gradually rising into eonsfquenee by 
 the industry of an increaslRg population. I'he Betroii 
 opens into the south-west end of lake Erie. This lake ex- 
 tends from south-west to nortls-east two hundred and thirty 
 one miles, in its broadest partis 63 i-2, and in esreumferenee 
 668. Koar the Detroit it is adorned by many pleasing and 
 pieluresque islands, whilst its shores on both sides, have ma- 
 ny indieations of seltlement and euliivation. Gaies of wind 
 frcquc!5t!y occur, and bring with them a heavy swell, with 
 every eharaeterisfie of a gaie of wind at sea ; but there are 
 many good harbors, particularly on the nortiiern side,* (hat 
 
 * Here the partiality of the Canadian appears. Lake Erie is 
 unfortunately deficient in good harbors on both shores, but if no 
 other circumstance except the confluent rivers existed, that alone 
 would give a decided preference to tlie southern shore. It is a 
 singular fact that the Ouse or Grand river is the only stream of 
 any consequence which enters lake Erie from t!ie Canadashore; 
 •whilst on the opposite side enter the Cataraugus, Asht.ibula, 
 Cayahoga, Black river, Vermillion, Huron of the state of Ohio, 
 Sandusky, Maumee, Raisin, and tlie southern Huron of the Mi^- 
 chigan Tei'ritory; and besides these, many of which afford good 
 giieiter for vessels, are the harbors of Dunkirk and Erie, into 
 which no rivers are disembogued. Put-in-bay, in the soutbei-n 
 Bass island, is an excellent harbor; perhaps, except Detroit riv- 
 er itself, the best in lake Ei-ie. As the author visited most of 
 these bays and rivers, particular descriptions will be found in 
 the course of this treatise, to which the reader is referred. 
 
 The Ouse oi-Gj-and river rises in Upper Canada, about fifty 
 miles north-west of the western extremity of lake Ontario, and 
 following a soutli-south-east course of about 80 miles falls into 
 lake Erie 35 miles west effort Erie; it has a bar at the mouth 
 like all other lake rivers. Interlocking with the Ouse rises the 
 river Tlianies, the riviere a la Tranche of tlie French, or Escan- 
 sipi of the Chippewa Indians. The Thames flows to the south- 
 west, about 15 miles from and very nearly parallel to lake Erie, 
 and finally falls into lake St. Clair about 40 miles east from the 
 
NIAOARA EIVEE. 
 
 iOl 
 
 afford protection to the numerotis vessels that navigate it. 
 lis greatest ileplh of water is between 40 and 45 fathoms,* 
 its hottom generally rociij, whinh renders tlie anchorage 
 precarious, particularly in blowing weather. From the 
 noi'th-east end of Jake Erie, the coninmnication to lake 
 Ontario is by the Niagara river, S6 miles in length, and va- 
 rying from half a mile to a league in breadth, its course 
 nearly north. The stream in some places is divided into two 
 eliaaaeU by islands, (he largest of which is seven miles in 
 length. The current is impetuous, and being broken in ma- 
 isy places by the uneven rocky boitom, is very much agitated. 
 The banks on each side of the river are almost perpcndieularj 
 and considerably more than one hundred yards Jiigh.f On 
 the western side the road passes along its summit, and de- 
 lights the traveller with many interesting views both of the 
 river and the country, which is thickly inhabited, and under 
 excellent culture. Here also his mind will be lost in wonder 
 at viewing the stupendous Falls of Niagara, unquestionably 
 one of the most extraordinary spectacles in tiafure, that pre- 
 sents to the imagination as powerful a combination of sub- 
 limity and grandeur, magnificence and terror, as it can well 
 experience. Any description, however animated, whether 
 pourtrayed by the glowing pencil of art, guided by the live- 
 liest fancy, or flowing from the most eloquent pen that em- 
 foellishes the page of narrative, would, most probably, 
 
 town of Detroit. Several indentings of the north shore of lake 
 Erie produce harbors, one of which, the North Foreland, has 
 f;reat resemblance to the bay of Erie, though upon a larger scale 5 
 some others, like Dunkirk, are open semi-elliptical bays, with no 
 great depth of water. Maiden, or Amherstburg, is incompara- 
 bly the best harbor in Canada, in or contiguous to lake Erie. 
 
 * Medium depth about 20 fathoms. 
 
 t This is fact only between tlie falls and Queenstown. Many 
 places above the falls the banks are nearly on a level with, and in 
 others, rising but little above the surface of the river. Below 
 Queenstown, the banks gradually decline, until near lake Onta- 
 jio, tliey are subject to occasional inundation. 
 
SIAGAR.V UiVKK. 
 
 [let. I'X. 
 
 fisil short of doing adequate justice to tlic realily. The at- 
 Seinpf, however, has been so fretjueiitly made, and in some 
 few instances with toierable success, as to convey an idea of 
 its iaiuiensily. that, " a description of the Falls of Kiagara" 
 lias become familiar (o almost every general reader. For 
 this reason, and also because in any new endeavor, I slioiild 
 certainly feel Iwit little confident of cither reaching ilic mer- 
 it of (he subject, or contributing to (he stock of kno>73udge 
 already obtained thereon. I will excuse myself from re- 
 peating what has been so often related before, and proceed 
 in describing, with my best nieans, the general outlines of 
 this majestic river. 
 
 " Five miles from the great Falls is another, and scarcely 
 less tremendous natural curiosity, called tlie whirlpool ; it is 
 occasioned by the stream as it passes frojii (he c?.(ai'act 
 sweeping wi(li impetuous violence round a natural basin en- 
 closed between some rocky promontories, wherein it forms a 
 vortex, that ensures inevitable destruction to whatever 
 comes within its attraction. By thus diverging from its 
 forward direction, and being as it were embayed for a time, 
 the velocity of tbe current is cheeked, and subdued to a more 
 tranquil course towards Lake Ontario. Four miles from 
 hence is Queenstown, a neat, well built place, deserving of 
 notice, as being the depot for all mercliandize and stores, 
 brought from Montreal and Quebec, for the use of the tipper 
 province but not less so for the romantic beauty and local 
 grasjdear of its situation. For seven miles further on, to the 
 town of Newark or Nifigara, the ri>er forms an excellent 
 capacious harbor for vessels of any size, exceedingly well 
 sheltered by high and bold banks on each side, with good 
 anchorage in every pari. Tbe river of Niagara communi- 
 cates with the west end of Lake Ontario, rendered (nemora- 
 blc by events recently passed, and most probably destined to 
 become the scene of contests, that will be pregnant with 
 momentous import to North America in future ages. lis 
 length it is i71 miles, at its greatest breadth 59 1-2, and 467 
 
LET. IX.] 
 
 IVKE ONTARIO. 
 
 103 
 
 ia cireumference. The depth of water varies very miicli, 
 but is seldom less than three, or more than 50 fatlioms, ex- 
 cept in the middle, where attempts have been made with 300 - 
 fathoms without striking soundings.* Its position is nearly 
 east and west. The appearance of the shores exhibits great 
 diversity ; towards the north-east part they are low, with ma- 
 ny marshy places ; to the north and north-west they assume^ 
 a lofty character, but subside again to very moderate height 
 on the south.f Bordering the lake the country is every 
 where covered with woods, through whose numerous open- 
 ings frequent patches of settlements are seen that give it a 
 pleasing eifcet, which is greatly heightened by the wiiite 
 cliifs of Toronto, and the remarkable high land over 
 Presque Isle, called the Devil's Nose, on tlie north ; the 
 view on the south is well relieved with a back ground pro- 
 duced by the ridge of hills, that, after forming the precipice 
 for the cataract, stretches away to the eastward ; the finish- 
 ing object of the prospect, in this direction is a conical emi- 
 nei<i!<; towering above the chain of heights, called Fifty Mile 
 Hill, as denoting its distatjce from the town of Niagara. Of 
 die many rivers flowing into Lake Ontario, if the Genesee 
 
 * When on lake Ontario, I was informed hy sundry captains 
 of vessels, that, after leaving the shores a short distance, the 
 soundings varied fiom 75 lo 89 fathoms; seldom so tow as 70 or 
 so high as SO ; which would give a medium depth of 82. fathoms, 
 from every information I have received, the bottom of the lakes 
 vary considerably, having hills, dales, and slopes, similar to dry 
 ■ land; but with less abruptness in the ascents and descents. Com- 
 pared with the surface Ontario is the deepest of all the Canadian 
 lakes, and like Erie receives its principal rivers fi-om tire south 
 shore. 
 
 t This is only correct as respects the immediate shores ; along 
 the south side of lake Ontario runs a narrow strip of land, occa- 
 sionally rising into banks of 30 or 40 feet high, and often low, 
 and sometimes marshy ; but four, five or six miles from the shore 
 the country rises into high hills, with often a very broken and 
 even mountainous aspect. The country near Sacket's Harbor is 
 flat, but resting upon a bed of limestone, with hills of considera- 
 ble elevation in the rear. 
 
[Jlkt. IXi 
 
 and Oswego. rivTi's be excepted, thet-e are iioae (hat layelaini 
 to piii-iicuirii' fioliee, unless it bo for (be peculiarity of all 
 of thein liaving a sand}' bar across tbe entrance. 'J'here are 
 some fine bays and inlets, wberein vessels of every description 
 may find protection against bad weather. Burlington bay 
 Is botli spacious and secure ; but (lier.e advantages are ren- 
 dered of kittle importance by its narrow entrance being so 
 siiallow as to admit notliitig larger tlian boats. Hungry 
 bay, .on (lie contraryj is conspicuous, as aiTording good an- 
 chorage, and safe shelter among tlie islands to ships of the 
 largest size at all seasons. York and Kingston harbors, be- 
 longing to (be English, and Sacket's Ilarhor (o tbe Aincri- 
 caris, arc ;UH(]ues(!onably (he best upon (Ise lake, as they pos- 
 sess every natural requisite ; the (wo latter are strongly 
 fortified, Ijeing Die arsenals where ships of war, even of (he 
 first rate, have been construc(ed by both powers* ahd from 
 Yi Jicnce halve betn fitted out (hose powerful hostile squadrons 
 that have conferred so niucl* cflnisequence upon (he naval op- 
 erations in' (his quiirter.* ' Very heavy squalls of wind fre- 
 quently occur, bn( t!iey*ar-e unat(etid<?d \vith either dififitulty 
 ov danger, if met by the usual precautions every seaman is 
 acquainted with. ' ' 
 
 " Of the niapj' islandsilt the east end of Ontario, (he Grant! 
 Isle, lying abreast of Kingston, is (he most extensive, and by 
 being placed at the coiiiiiieneeinen( of (he Cataraqui riv- 
 er, forms (wo channels leading into it, (hat bear the 
 name of the North or Kingston Channel, and tjje South or 
 
 * Except the barracks noticed page 72 of this treatise, thera 
 exists no defensive ot ofleiisive niiiitary works at Sacket's 
 Ilaibor. The leiriporary lines of defence, erected during the 
 war, are now neglected or removed. It is a position with 
 great natiu'al advantages, wliich might i)e made, if eecessaiy, very 
 strong. It is a'so a post of the utmost importance to tlie U. S. 
 If I was callc'i upon to point out wliich p'ace, in my opinion, on 
 all the Canadian border, concentrated the most eligible site for a 
 naval and military depot, I would unhesitatingly give the mouth 
 'f)f Black river the preference. 
 
I.ET. IX.] 
 
 CarJetoa Island Channel. Catariiqiii, fiom iis eniraneo irt 
 the place called Petit Dctrdil, .tUOiit SS) miles, is alisiosl GHt-d 
 with one eonlinned clusler of small islands, so niinieroiis as 
 to have occasioned the general denoniiualion of Aliiics Isles.* 
 
 • Thousaki islands. There is gi'cat vagiifeness in llic above 
 description which leaves the commencement of the Cataraqiii un- 
 defined. Indeed it is very ditiicnit to n^aik with precision the 
 tenninatioi) oi' lake Ontario, or llie coininenbev;ienl of the Cata- 
 laqui or St. Lawrence river. Before reaching Gi-and Isle, a num- 
 ber of smaiier islands cheqiier tlVe hcilom of the lake between 
 Sacket's Harbor and the te.Tstern extremity of the Peninsula, of 
 Prince Edward. The lake gradually contracts appi'oaching the 
 west end of Grand Isle, where it is auoul ten miles wide ; three 
 miles further to the north-eiisi, from Kingston to Cape Vincent, 
 tiie distance is eight miles in a direct line. I'elow Kiiigston, the 
 j'iver, or more Correctly, the lake slowly contracis for about tifty 
 «iiles in a direct line to lirbckville, where it is but little aboveone 
 >nile wide. The inteririedhUe space between Kingston and 
 Brocicville is an almost continued cluster of islands, but distin- 
 guished by very different characters. Grand island, Carlton 
 island and Well's island with some others in their vicinity, rise 
 fifty or sixty feet .above the level of the water with sloping banks,, 
 and a productive soil covered with timber of various kinds, of 
 which pine, elm, maple and linden are tlie principiil species. 
 The banks of the main Shoi'e aife flat or rise very gradually with 
 a base of secondary Or floetz rock. The region known by the 
 liistinctive appellation of the Thousand islands is granitic. The 
 sslauds are mostly small, and many of them naked rock ; pine is 
 the prevalent timber. The banks Of the main shore often pre- 
 cipitous. 
 
 A chain of primitive mountains lijavfes the elevated country 
 south-west of lake George, and proceeding to the north-west 
 through the state of New-York, between the waters of the Oswe- 
 gatchie krid Black rivers, cfdss the St. Lawrence between King- 
 ston and Brockville, and continuing into Canada, divides the wa- 
 tei-s that flow north-eaSt into the Ottawa, from those which (low 
 south-west into lakes Hulori and Ontario. The passage of the 
 St. Lawrence over this chain, for'ns the Thou.sand islands. 
 Every step I have taken on this stream presents phenomena to 
 demonstrate that this ridge wa.s once unhroken, and that in it, 
 somewhere existed a cataract, alJove which the waters of lake 
 Ontario wei'e elevated gi-eatly above their ])resent level. The dis- 
 ruption, or gradual wear of this mass of rocks, let loose the im- 
 prisoned fluid, inundated the coinUry below, and then, perhapSi 
 lemnienced the cataract of Niagara. 
 
 2 
 
5iyES SjT, iAWK155C£. 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 The distance between Kingston and Montreal is about 190 
 miles; the bunks of the river display a scene that cannot 
 fail to excite surprize, when the jcnrs that have elapsed 
 
 Below the Thousand islands, commences a secondary region 
 consisting in great part of schistose sandstone, upon which often 
 I'ests an ailuvia! deposit. In tiiis manner is formed the unequal- 
 led country below Biockville, as far as I have visited tlie river St. 
 Lawrence. Though not bearing the name, the islands between 
 IMorristown and Brockville arc formed from similar materials 
 with the Thousand islands. About midway, between and a little 
 below those two towns, occur the last of these granitic islands, 
 and what is very singular, the banks of both shores are formed 
 of tioetz or schistose rock. Immediately beiow Brockviile, the 
 Canada shore is formed by a liigh and perpendicular ledge of 
 tiie latter formation, and about four miles above IMorristown, the 
 margin of the river is a ledge of fine white sand stone in hori- 
 zontal slrata. Below this place, the river is without islands 
 fifteen or sixteen miles, is from a mile to one and half mile wide, 
 with shores rising by a gentle accHvity from the water, and where 
 cultivated, inexpressibly beautiful. The soil exubeiantly richj 
 and covered with a growth of timber, indicative of extraordinary 
 fertility, such as white birch, red maple, sugar tree, elm, linden, 
 hemlock, and white pine. 
 
 Four nfiles below Ogdensburgh , another group of islands com- 
 mence, hut with a pliysiognomy totally difit?rent from any of the 
 preceding. Tliis group is near thirty in number, of dilTerent sizes 
 Ironi one and a half mile to twenty yards in length, almost all of 
 an elliptical form, and rising from the water by a globular swell. 
 Such of those islands wlsich have formerly been cleared of tim- 
 ber, and which are now again overgrown by a new generation 
 of trees, are incomparably the most delightful spots I have either 
 seen or whose existence I could conceive. The limpid water 
 that surrounds them, clumps of trees without underbrush, and 
 in summer an air attempered to the most delicious softness. A 
 tew days past, our agent col Samuel Hawkins, gave a fete 
 diunifstre, upon one of tliero, to the members of the commissions 
 on both sides ; the day was, even on the St. Lawrence, uncom- 
 monly line, and amid tlie groves of a.^pen, wild cherry, and 
 linden trees, the scene seemed more than earthly. Mrs. Hawkins 
 presided, and in the bowers of St. Lawrence, recalled the most 
 polished manners of civilized cultivated society in the crowded 
 city. At the close of evening, major Joseph Delafield and my- 
 self, walked over the island, and in full view of the objects which 
 excited our feelings, concluded that no spot on the globe could 
 unite within so small a space, more to please, to amuse and gratis, 
 fy the fancy. , 
 
 \ 
 
XET. IX.] 
 
 kivER ST. lurRK^reB. 
 
 since the first ^ieUlement ol'thls part of eounfr}' (in 17S3) 
 are considered. Tliey embrace all (he ciiiberiisiiuienis of ii 
 numerous population, feVliiUy, and good eiildvatioti.* Well 
 constructed high roads leading close to eaeli side, whii oi!i- 
 ers branching from tliem into the interior, render commimi- 
 cation both easy and expeditious, wliilstilie numerous loaded 
 batleatix and rafts ineessanlly passing up and down fro'si the 
 beginning of spring until the latter end of autumn, demon- 
 strate, uneqnivocally, a very extensive eommerciul inter- 
 course. The islands, the shoals, tlie rapids, with contrivan- 
 ces for passing them, form altogether a sneeesiiion of novel- 
 lies that gives pleasurg< while it ei'eates astonislimeni." 
 
 "Before reaching "Montreal, the lakes St. Francis, Sf. 
 Louis, and des IVIontagnes, present themselves : tlsey do not 
 ^dinit of comparison with lliose already noticed, uiid, can 
 indeed, only be considered as so many widenings of (lie 
 
 * The rsjpid change made upon ail iincullivaleti country by the 
 introduction of the necessary arts of civilized life, never did re» 
 ceive a more striking exemplification, than is now given by the 
 left shore of the St. Lawrence below the Thousand islands, as far 
 down as Hamilton. Fields joining to fields, farm-houses, with 
 their most attractive decoration, garden, meadow, and orchard, 
 smile along this truly elegant slope. Villages with many of the 
 highest traits of cultivated life, and with all the first principles of 
 civilization, rise along this ouce desolate waste. Brockvillc, 
 Prescott, and Johnstown, are now what were once New-Yoi k and 
 Philadelphia, what were once Quebec and Montreal, and langinj; 
 farther back in the lapse of ages, what was once Athens, RoniCj 
 Paris and London. 
 
 Many times, when the rising and setting sun spread a glow of 
 golden lustre over this attractive picture, have I demanded of 
 myself, was this country a gloomy forest scene oidy five and thirty 
 years past ? The rich lustre of harvest would have answered, 
 that upon this expanse the labor of ages had been expended ; but 
 history faithfully points to the contrary. In 1783 the ax first 
 resounded on these shores ; and now, 18 18, the world can pi e- 
 sent but few, if any regions of equal extent, where all that can al- 
 lure the eye, or gratify the mind, can be found more condensed 
 into one view. Savage life has disappeared for ever, and in it* 
 place now stands the residence of the insl^rtiotod num. 
 
1C8 
 
 KIVEE ST. iAAVKESCE. 
 
 [let, IX. 
 
 i-ivpi'.* Tlicv are of no great depth, hui form an agreeable 
 variety, by liaving many preliy islands scatJcred about (hem. 
 S(. Francis is 25 miles long by five and a half miles broad ; 
 tlie sborcs in soiiic places are marsliy, as they dc not rise 
 much above (lie level of tlie water. St. Louis and Deux 
 iVlontagncs, are formed at the junction of the Ottawa with 
 the St. Lawrence 5 the lirst is 12 miles long by 6 broad ; the 
 latter is very irregular, and in its whole length 24 miles, but 
 varying in breadth fi'om 1 to fl miles, 
 
 " At the confluence of the two rivers are the islands of 
 Montreal, isle Jesus, Bizarre, and Perrot; the first is pro- 
 bably the most beautiful spot of all Lpwer Canada. On the 
 south side of this island is the city of iJie same name, and its 
 convenient port, 580 miles from the gulf of St. Lawrence, to 
 which ships of six hundred tons can ascend with very little 
 difficulty,! On the north-west liesjisle Jesus, that, by its 
 
 * If llie first springs that afterwards form the rivers west of 
 lake Superior, are taken into the accouut then lake Superior it- 
 Soif is nothing more than a dilatation of tlie waters as tliey are ag- 
 gregated in descending from their original source. Lakes Huron, 
 Michigan, Erie, and Ontario, differ in nothing but comparative 
 exlent, fiom thos*; of St. Francis and St. Louis in the St. Law- 
 j ence river ; from lake George and Chaniplain in the Riclielieu ; 
 from lake Pepin in the Mississippi, and from lake Leman in the 
 Khone. The smallest brook, presents all the features of the 
 largest river, where the plain has too little inclination to admit 
 direct descent, a pond or lake is formed, and where the descent 
 becomes lapid, a flowing stream is the consequence. From these 
 siriiple principles, arise all the features perceivable from the dimp- 
 ling pool, to the vast expanse of lake Superior, or the Caspian sea ; 
 fi om the rippling rill to the overwhelming torrents of the Missis- 
 sippi and St. Lawrence All streams are, in fact, composed of 
 chains w hose links are themselves alternately lakes and cataracts, 
 the cause of the cxi.stence of the foinier, is a greater approach to 
 the curve of llie real sphere ; the latter is produced by an in- 
 clination of more or less ohliquity to that curve superficies. 
 
 t Compared with any other stream of the globe, the St. Law- 
 rence, when free from ice, certainly affords the best ship naviga- 
 tion. No other river can be ascended so far with equal vessels, 
 and with so little impediment. The only streams that can com- 
 pete with the St. Lawrence, are the Oronoque and Rio de 1* 
 
lET. IX.] 
 
 EIVEIl ST. LlWilEXCE. 
 
 109 
 
 position, forms <wo other clianncis of a moderate! bfcadtli, 
 one called la Kiviere des Prairies, and tho otiier la Rivii-ro 
 de St. Jean, or Jesus. They are both navigable for boats 
 or rafts, and unite again with the main river at ISoat dc I' 
 Isle, or cast end of Montreal island. From this city the na- 
 vigation assumes a character of more consequence than what 
 it does above, being carried on in ships and decked vessels of 
 ail classes. In the distance from hence to Quebec, 180 
 miles, tlie impediments to vessels of large tonnage sailing 
 either up or down are not many,- and may be overcome with 
 much ease, if it be judged expedient that their cargoes should 
 be so conveyed in preference to transporting tiiem in small 
 eraft. On either side the prospect is worthy of admiration. 
 The different seigniories, all in the highest state of improve- 
 Mient that the agriculture of the country will admit of, denote 
 both affluence and industry. The views are always pleasing 
 and often beautiful, altliougli the component parts of them 
 do not possess that degree of grandeur whieli is perceivable 
 below Quebec, Nuuicrous villages built around a handsome 
 stone cburcii, seem to invite iJie traveller's attention, while 
 single houses and farms at agreeable distances appear to 
 keep up a regular chain of communication. In fact, who- 
 ever passes from one city to the other, wlietlier by wafer or 
 by land, will not fail to have his senses highly grafilied, and 
 to meet with many subjects worthy both of observation and' 
 
 Platp, both in South America. The Amai^on anH Mississipj)i can 
 neither present so much facility for internal commerce, as far as 
 the ingi-ess of large ships is concerned. On the eastein contin- 
 ent, the Elbe, Garonne, Wolga, and Ganges, arc the rivers that 
 admit the highest descent of ships, neither of which are equal in 
 that respect, to the Hudson or the Delaware. 
 
 The heaiity of the St. Lawrence islands has been noticed ; that 
 of Montreal has the preference of gi-eater extent than any other 
 with equal elegance of natural physiognomy. The scenery 
 aroimd this city is on a vast .scale, being bounded by mountain's 
 more than eighty miles distant, uniting in itself, a most attractive 
 local, with a position equally favorable for external and iaterual 
 oomraerce ; it now contains 25,000 people. 
 
 ■ I 3 
 
it* RIVER ST. lAWEEJfCE. [liET. IX. 
 
 reflection. Ahout miles below Montreal, on tiie soiilh 
 side, is the <o«n of WiHiam-Hcnry, or Sorrd, built at (lie 
 »-ntranee of the river Eiuheiicii into the St. Lawrence, not 
 fiiv from 'vvhieb the latter sjireatls into another lake, the last 
 in its progress towards (he sea j it is called St. Peters, is 25 
 jiiilcs lung and 9 broad ; like most of ihe oihcrs, this has a 
 group oF islands covering about !) miles ol'ihe western part ; 
 Iwtween tiieui two distinct channels arc formed, the one to 
 ihc soiilii bcinj; the deepest and clearest is consequently the 
 best for ships. The banks on each side are verj low, with 
 shoals siretcluiig from tliem to u considerable distance, so 
 ihat only a narrow passage, whose genera! depih is from 12 
 10 IS feet, is It fl unohsti ucted. About 4 5 miles from William 
 lleni'Y on the north side, at tlie moush of the river St.Maiirice, 
 stands the (own of Three Rivers, the third ia rank withi« 
 ihe province. At this place the tide ceases entirely,* and, 
 
 * Or in other words, the town of Three Rivers, stands at the 
 head of tide water in the Si. Lawrence. If it is 1 80 niiles from 
 Queuee to Montreal, and 90 fioni tiiC latter to Three Rivers, than 
 the tides flow Si^ miles above Quebec, or nearly 400 miles from 
 the gulf of St. Lawrence, and an unequalled distance into the 
 interior of this or any other part of the earth. Like as in the 
 liudson, the tides in the St. Lawrence, pass through achainof pri- 
 jiiitive mountains, upon the ruins of which slands Quebec. As 
 1 have !>elbre observed of the cliain which passes the St. taw- 
 jence, and tbrms tlie Thousand Islands, 1 repeat respecting that 
 ^vhich traverses the same river near Quebec, that it was once 
 cotifmuous, and confined the waters above it, forming a lake, 
 Which must have been drained by some of those operations of na- 
 ture, wliicli impose la.'^ting changes upon our globe. 
 
 " VVIien this opening was made by the force of the included 
 water, the land was laid bare on both sides of tliat river (St. 
 Lawrence,) as far as St. Regis, including the islands of Montreal 
 and Jesus; and by the same operation, the land on both sides of 
 hike Chanip'ain would be drained as far as Ticonderoga and 
 Whitehall."— i>r. .S.X, Jfiic/ria's J\'uies on Citvier's Thevry cf 
 the Earth, page 391. 
 
 This aiicietit lake was not bounded by St. Regis ; at that village 
 tliere exists no land of any considerable elevation above the level 
 of the water in tiie river that could set bounds to the inchideQ lake, 
 1 have already observed that no current of any consequence exists 
 in ihe Si, Lawrence, from lake Eije to the lower extremity of the^ 
 
iET. I X.J 
 
 EIVEK ST. lAWKENCE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 indeed, is not much felt at several miles below it : from 
 hence (liere is seaiee any variation in (ho general aspect of 
 the St. Lavirence, until arriving at the Eichclieii rapid (abont 
 53, jaiiles,) where its bed is so much caiUractcd or obstruct- 
 
 Thousand islands ; coMequently the present depression of tlic 
 river commences at that place. The fall in St. Lawrence, is 
 from t]ie beginning of its current, to tide water 231 feet, (see my 
 letter to Charles G. ilaincs, Esq.) tlierefore if any impedinierit 
 of that heigiit was now raised at Quebec, the accumulated watei'S 
 would again assume a level to the west end of lake Ontario. It is 
 probable that tlie outer or Quebec barrier, yielded before the up- 
 per, or that of the Thousand islands, and that a cataract of very 
 considerable elevation, existed for a great length of time near 
 where Brockville now stands. The waters, by their abrasion, 
 finally cut the inner granitic chain, and a depression in the deptii 
 and great contractioji in the extent of lake Ontario was the effect. 
 It appears from the phenomena exhibited by ir^ost ri\ci'?, that 
 schistose secondary yields more slowly to the action of water, than 
 do primitive rocks, though the latter, are in fact, harder in their 
 texture, than the fonner. A stream glides smoothly over a bed 
 of horizontal slate, without producing much eliect; primitive 
 rocks by their fractured surface, oppose points of contact to the 
 falling fluid which imperceptibly tears away the broken frag- 
 mentsof rock, and finally gains a smooth uninterrupted channei. 
 All the rapids in the St. Lawi-ence rush over smooth beds of lloctz,. 
 limestone, or sandstone, which have prevented the stream fioui 
 producing a greater eliect upon the incumbent primitive strata 
 above, towards lake Ontario. 
 
 If a similar effect had been produced in the St. Lawrence that 
 has taken place in the Hudson, then woidd the Atlantic tides 
 have flowed to Niagara. The medium deptii of lake Ontario is 
 about 82 fatiioms, or 49 2 feet, and as we have already seen, the 
 difference of level between the surface of lake Ontario, and tide 
 water is 23 I ; of course tiie bottom of lake Ontario is generally 
 below tide water 261 feet. It is now evident that if the interven- 
 ing barrier was broken, the lake would again depress 23 1 feet and 
 leave immense spaces dry land which are yet submerged ; though 
 a residue would remain which would still have a depth of 231 feet, 
 far greater than is now the case in lake Erie. 
 
 The breadth, strength, and texture of the composing materials 
 in the St. Lawrence, however, reiidei s a farther depression of its 
 volume the work of unlimited ages, and compared with tl.e 
 epocha in human historj', the present order of things iu that 
 quarter may be considered peipetuai. No earthquake, short of 
 aaotjvulsion which would disrupt the earth to it^s center could" re- 
 
"H"^- ElVEK ST. I.AWRENCK. |XET. IX. 
 
 i <! by huge musses of rock, as to leave but a very narrow 
 f;iiai!nel, wherein :it t bb (ide there is so great a deseenJ, that 
 much eauliosi, and a proper time of the ebb is uecessary to 
 puss tlirOKgh it ; at the end of the rapiij, there is a good an- 
 <!horage, where vessels can wait their convenient opportuni- 
 •y. From Moiitreal, thus far, the banks are of a very mo- 
 derate elevation, and uniformly level, but hereabout they 
 are much higher, and gradually increase ia their appioach 
 to Quebec, until they attain the height of Cape piamoadj 
 i!pon which she city is built- At this capital of the pro- 
 vince and seat of government, tliere is a most excellent port 
 and a capacious basin, wherein the greatest depth of water 
 is 2S fathoms, with a tide rising from 17 to 18,. and at tbe. 
 sspriugs, fioui 23 to 2i feet. Vvam whence, and from Poiot 
 jLevi on the soutii shore, one of the most striking panoramit; 
 views, perhaps, in tlie vboie world, oS'ers ilsilf to notite 
 the assemblage of objects is so grand, and though naturally, 
 yel appear so artificially contrasted with each other, thai 
 they mingle surprize with the gvalilication of every beholder. 
 The capital upon (he summit of the cape, the river Si. 
 Cliarles, flowing for a great distance, through a valley, 
 iibounding in natural beauties, the falls of Blontmerency, the 
 island of Orleans, and the well cultivated setdements on all 
 sides, form together a coup d' eil, that might enter into 
 eompelilion with the most romantic. At the basin, the 8(. 
 I^awrence is two niiles across, and continues increasing iia 
 breaddi until it enters the gulf of Ihe same name, where, 
 from Cape liosier to (he Mingan settlement on the Labra- 
 
 move such enormous masses, and if such a catastrophe ever does 
 occur, an entire change will ensue in rivers and lakes, andpro- 
 (!iice a new physiognomy on the earlh's surface. I have long 
 been of opinion, that the accidcnlal agency of earthquakes ai.d 
 volcanoes, has been overrated, whilst the slow, but constant in- 
 nuence of water has met with too little attention from philqse- 
 phers and naturalist.?. This subject will again come in review 
 *lien we ai:e examining the features of lake Erie andMiagara 
 river. ' 
 
I,ET. IX.] 
 
 HIVER ST. IiAWKENCE. 
 
 113 
 
 ^op shore, it is very near 105 miles wide. A little below the 
 d(y is the isle of Orleans, placed in the midway, conseqaent- 
 Jy forming two channels ; the one to the south is always 
 itsed i)j ships, the shore on that side is high, and on (he op- 
 posite, in some places, it is ev^n mountainous, but in both, 
 exSremely well settled, and the lands in such a high state of 
 improvement, (hat a large tract in the vicinity of Kiviere 
 du Sud, is familiarly called the granary of the province, 
 peyond the island of Orleans are several ethers, as Goose 
 Island, Crane island, and .iiany smaller ones ; these two re 
 tolerably well cultivated, but the rest are neglected. At 
 Kiviere du Sud, the j^rcat river is increased to elev j miles 
 in width, and the country that adjoins it, cannot be easily 
 sivalled in its general appoaranea. The great number of 
 churches, telegraph stations and villages, whose houses are 
 almost always whitened, are so well exhibited by the dark 
 contrast of the thick woods covering the rising grounds be- 
 hind (hem up tq their summits, and tlie termination so com- 
 pletely defined by the distant range of lofty mountains 
 forming the boundary before noticed, that very few land- 
 scapes will be found ac(ually superior to it. Beyond Riviere 
 du Sud, is a channel named the Traverse, which deserves 
 mention from the circumstance of (ke river being here thir- 
 teen miles across ; yet the Isle aux Coudres, the shoal of 
 St. Roche, and another culled- the English Bank, interrupt 
 the fair way so much, tiiat this passage, which is the usual 
 one the pilots choose, is not more than from 1700 to 1800 
 yards be! ween the two buoys that mark the edge of (he 
 shoals ; it is tbe most intricate part of the river below Que- 
 bec, the currents are numerous, irregular and very strong, 
 pa which large sliips must consult the proper time of the 
 tide to pass it without accident. On (he north shore between 
 the Isle aux Coudres, and the main there is another channel, 
 but the current is so rapid, the depth of water so great, and 
 the holding ground so bad in case of being obliged to anchor 
 within it, that pilots always give the preference to running 
 
114. 
 
 KIVER ST. XAWEBKCE. 
 
 llr.'ough the Travci'sc. Kot the smaU*»#t difficiiKy will ever 
 be roiind in making this passage good, if tlse bearings and 
 directions laid down upon my topograj)'iieal map he duly.sit- 
 tended to. Passing the Traverse, a very agreeable view of 
 the settlements of the bay of St. Paul, enclosed within an 
 amphitheatre of very high hills, and the well cultivated Isic 
 aiix Cotidres at its entrance, presents itself. Continuing 
 down the river, the next in successioji arc the islands of 
 Kaniourasea, the Pilgrims, Hare Isiafid, and the cluster of 
 small ones near it, named the Bracdy Pots, these are reck- 
 oned 103 miles from Quebec, and well known as the ren- 
 dezvous, where the merchant ships collect to sail with con- 
 voy. From hence, at no great distance, is Green island, on 
 which is liglit-house, where a light is shewn from sun-set to 
 sun-rise, between tbe 15(h of April to the lOlU of Decem- 
 ber. Near Green island is Red island, and abrtast cf it oa 
 the northern shore is the mouth of the river Saguenay, re- 
 markable even in America for the immense volume of wa- 
 ter it pours into the St. Lawrence. Pi'oceeding onwards is 
 Bic island, 153 miles from Quebec, a point that ships al- 
 ways endeavour to make on account of its good ancborage, 
 as well as being the place where men of war usually wait 
 the coming down of the merchantmen ; next to Bic island, 
 is the Isle St. Barnabe, and a little farther on the Point aux 
 Peres. From this point ihfe river is perfectly clear to (be 
 gulf, and the pilots being unnecessary any longer, here give 
 up their charge of ssieli as are bound outwards, and receive 
 those destined iipwards. Below Point aux Peres, are two 
 very extraordinary mountains nlme to each other, called die 
 Paps of iMatane, and nearly opposite tlicm the bold and 
 lofty pronioniory of Mount Pelee, where the river is lisilo 
 more than 25 miles wide, but the coast sutldenly sU'ticb-i's 
 almost northerly, so much, (hat at the seven islands, ii is 
 increased to 73 miles. The settlements on the sts'./iii sida 
 reach down thus far, but hereabouts, (hey may be coasiaci'- 
 cd to termjr.atp, as to the eastward of cape that, iiic pro- 
 
iET. IX.] 
 
 EIVEE ST. lA WHENCE. 
 
 gress of industry is no longer visible ; on (he north side, (he 
 cultivated lands extend only to Mallbay. In the river itself 
 uothiug, (farther) claims our attention, except the separation 
 of its shores to the distance already mentioned, from cape 
 Rosier to the Mingan settlement. 
 
 " I must still trepass upon the patience of my readers long 
 enough to mention, tliat the obsei vations hither made, apply 
 «nly to one part of t'le year; and also, (0 notice, that from 
 ihe beginning of Deeeisiber, until the middle of April, the 
 water communication is totally suspended by the frost. 
 During this period, the river from Quebec to Kingston, and 
 between the great lakes, except the ^Tiagara and tlie rapids, 
 is wholly frozen over. The lakes themselves, are never en- 
 tirely covered with ice, but it usually shuts up all the bays 
 and inlets, and extends many miles towards their centres. 
 Below Quebec it is not frozen over, but the force of the tides 
 incessantly detaches the ice from the shores, and such im- 
 mense masses are kept in continual agitation by the flux 
 and reflux, that navigation is totally impracticable in these 
 months. But though for this length of winter, the land and 
 water are so nearly identified, the utility of the river, if it be 
 diminished, is far from being wholly destroyed, for its sur- 
 face still offers the best route for land carriage, (if the me- 
 taphor can be excused ;) and tracks are soon marked out by 
 which a more expeditious intercourse is maintained by ve- 
 hicles of transport of all descriptions than it would be pos- 
 sible to do on the established roads, at this season so deeply 
 covered with snow, and which are available until the ap- 
 proach of spring makes the ice porous, and warm springs 
 occasioning large flaws, render it unsafe. "Wlien this altera- 
 tion takes place, it soon breaks up, and by the beginning of 
 May, is either dissolved or carried of by the current.* 
 
 * This can only be correct in common years, as instances do 
 .occur of tlieice between Montreal aud Quebec remaining after 
 the first of May. The ice in the Hudson river breaks up always 
 sooner than in t'lc lower part of St. Lawrence. andi.'\ euin tlt'e 
 
ElVER ST. lA-WREIVCE. 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 The gulf of St. Lawrence, that receives the waters of 
 *hi9 gigantic river, is ibrnied between the western part of 
 Newlbundland, (he eastern sliores of Labrador, tlie eastern 
 jcxtreniity of the province of New Branswick, part of the 
 province of Nova Scotia, and the island of Cape Breton. 
 It communicates with the Athmtic ocean by three different 
 passa.!;'es, viz : on the north by the straiis of Bellcisle between 
 Labrador and Newfoundland ; on the south-east by the pas- 
 sage frona cape Ray ; tlie south-west extreniiiy of (lie lat-. 
 ter island, and the north cape of Breton Island ; and lastly 
 by the narrow channel named the gut of Canso, that divides 
 cape Breton from Nova Scotia. The distance from cape 
 Breton to cape Ray is 79 leagues, and from Nova Scotia t« 
 LabraiJor one bundret} and six." 
 
 [Boucbette's Camda, page 32 — 55. 
 
 It has. already beea observed that the Sf. Lawrence was 
 rather a strait than a river ; below Quebec it assumes more 
 the character of a bay, than either that af a strait or river. 
 Jn such rivers as the St. Lawrence, Hudson, Delaware, Sus- 
 quehanna, Rio de la Plate, and Elbe, it is very dilGcult to 
 determine wliere the river ceases, and the bay eonunences. 
 Except width, no essential change in the ordinary features 
 of the stream of the St. Lawrence takes place below Que^ 
 bee. It is perfectly similar at the Island of Orleans, and 
 opposite Cape Rosier. 
 
 Amongst tlie most interesting problems suggested by a ro- 
 view of this mighty river, is the comparative quantity of 
 water contained in its volume or discharged at its mouth. 
 No river of this globe can differ so much in the mass of 
 contained fluid and its expenditure as the St. Lawrence. I 
 have already given a table of the area of this river and its 
 
 former, the ice not unfiequeiitly continues firm late in April, as 
 was the case in 1818, the present year. The occurrence of raia 
 has the greatest agency in producing the repioval of ice in spring^ 
 in any river subject to be frozen in wintgr, 
 
3.ET. IX.] 
 
 RIVKE ST. lAWUESrCE. 
 
 lakes, expressed in square miles ; and have also observed 
 that the depth of the lakes was very unequal, and difficult 
 to reduce to a medium. Without pretending to a very strict 
 accuracy, I will endeavor to estimate the quantity of water 
 contained in the St. Lawrence and its lakes, assuming my 
 former superficies as <!a(a for the surface, and estimating 
 the depth from the hest information in my reach. It ap- 
 pears from the united information of all those who have 
 made the necessary experiments, that lakes Superior and 
 Huron are vast, and in some places unfathomable gulfs ; that 
 of all the great lakes that of Erie is the most shallow, not 
 exceeding an average of more than 20 fathoms ; and that 
 Ontario Varies from 75 to 89 fatlioms, with a medium depth 
 of 82 fatlioras. The St. Lawrence itself varies very much 
 in depth, and exhibits phenomena that shew its bottom to be 
 excessively uneven. In order to be within the limits of re- 
 ality, I have assumed a medium depth of 20 feei, for all the 
 surface contained in the last item of my estimate, of 1,500 
 square miles for the superficial area of St. Lawrence river 
 and the smaller lakes : I have also assumed for- lakes Supe- 
 rior, Huron and Michigan 150 fathoms or 900 feet, and upon 
 these data have constructed the following : 
 
 TABLE 
 
 iW THE QUANTITY OP WATER CONTAINED IN tUfc ST. LAWEEKCE, AKB 
 ALL ITS CONTRIBUTAEY LAKES AND KIVBRS. 
 
 Lake Superior, 
 Huron, - - 
 ■Micliigatl, - 
 Erie, - - . 
 OntaiiOj - - 
 St. Lawrence, "j 
 & other riv- I 
 ers & smaller 
 lakes. 
 
 Medium 
 Depth. 
 900 ft. 
 900 ft. 
 900 ft. 
 120 ft. 
 ,492 ft. 
 
 Superficial Area 
 in feet. 
 S36,3,i2,000,Q00 
 537,568,600,000 
 376,898,400,000 
 418,176,000,000 
 200,724,480,000 
 
 Solid Contents 
 in feet. 
 
 752,716,800,000,000 
 501,81 1,200,000,000 
 oSy, 308,5 60,000,000 
 50,181,120,000,000 
 98,75 6,444,160,000 
 
 83,520,000,000 
 
 2,430,894,880,000 il,742,757,644,lfiOjO06 
 
lis 
 
 EIVEK ST. l,i.\VKEJ(GE. 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 Incredible as it will appear to joiii'self and most other 
 persons, it is nevertheless a fact that this enormoiis mass of 
 IVesh water is here underrated, and j'ct amoimls to more 
 than one half of all the fresh water on this planet. TSiis 
 unequalled source of water, jou will perceive, propels down 
 the St. Lawrence a stream that flows with nearly equable 
 quantify throughout the year. Amongst the many traits of 
 singularity, that give to the St. Lawrence a character ot 
 unity, none is more distinctive than the unchangeable quan- 
 tity and velocity of its current. 
 
 Another problem now presents itself for solution, that is 
 the quantum of discharge, which, though very large, does 
 not bear a proportion to the mass contained. 
 
 Three places present themselves from where the dis- 
 charge can be calculated with most precision; opposilcs 
 Black-Rock, in the Niagara Strait, and above Ogden's Isl - 
 and, at the Narrows, or at Point Iroquois. At all of these 
 places, the whole volume is contracted into less than a mile 
 in width, but flowing with great velocity. In estimating the 
 mean discharge of rivers, a general mistake is prevalent, to 
 assume the upper current as that of the whole river. Al- 
 lowing the St. Lawrence to be three-fourths of a mile wide 
 at any of the places I have pointed out, and to flow three 
 miles an hour, with a mean depth of fifty feet, the result 
 would be, that a transverse section of the river would con- 
 tain 105,600 superficial feet, which multiplied by 15,840 the 
 lineal feet contained in three miles, would yield 1,672,704,000 
 cubic feet as the hourly discharge. This estimate exceeds 
 by more than one half, the quantity I formerly calculated 
 for the expenditure of the Mississippi; (see Appendix No. 3,) 
 and, though contrary to my opinion when I first arrived oft 
 the banks of the St. Lawrence, I am convinced falls below 
 reality. The greater surface drained by the Mississippi, 
 is counterbalanced by a much greater evaporation than 
 takes place on the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Yours respectfully. 
 
1>BT, X.j 
 
 SACKEl's HAEBOE. 
 
 119 
 
 LETTER X. 
 • : Sachet's Ilarhor, July 20t/i, 1818. 
 
 Deae Sir, 
 
 I lEiT Ogdensbiirgli the day before yesterday, ami 
 came on in the Steam-Boat to this village, from which I ex- 
 pect to set out in a few hours on ray tour or voyage west- 
 ward. The extracts I have transmitted from Mr. Bou-, 
 chette, will have given you the general outline of the natu- 
 ral features of ihe St. Lawrence ; it will be only necessary 
 for me to condense a recapitulation of the minute features, 
 to which I have been more parlieulafly a witness. 
 
 With partial exceptions, the banlis of this great stream 
 rise by acclivities of more or less inclination, from the mar- 
 gin tif the water to often half a mile distance, and from 
 thence become more level in retiring farther from the river. 
 The soil, except among the granitic rocks of the Thousand' 
 islands, is extremely ertile. 
 
 That part of its shores which I have traversed, lies in 
 the counties of St. Lawrence and Jefferson, in the state of 
 New-York, and is divided into the townships of Houndsfield 
 which includes this village, Lyme, Brownville> formerly Pen- 
 net's square, Le Ray, in Jefferson ; llossie, Hague, Oswc- 
 gatchie, Lisbon, and Madrid, in St. Lawrence. On the Can* 
 ada shore, in ascending from opposite Hamilton, I traversed 
 the point of tiie township of Matilda, in the county of Hun- 
 das ; of Edwardsburg and Augusta, in the county of Gren- 
 ville, and of Elizabethtown and Yonge, in the county of 
 Leeds, 
 
 In many respects this is amongst the most remarkable, 
 and certainly is one of the- most diversified tracts on the St. 
 Lawrence. In the whole range from Brockville, in Eliza- 
 beih township, as far as I descended, the shores of Canada 
 
iio KItES ST. lAWRENCB. [.LET, %i 
 
 present one expanse of cuUivalcd land. The farnss, from 
 llie regular ascent of tlie ground, have a fine eftl'et wUvn 
 seen from the i-ivcr or opposite shore. From the season of 
 my arrival and residence, I had a good opportunity to sec the 
 rapid advance of vegelation. On the 20th of May, very 
 little progress in tho foliage of spring was perceptible, and 
 yet thij first of June was ushered in in all the richness of 
 Ternal green. I have seen nothing to prepossess my hiind 
 with a favorable idea of Canadian famiing, yet the crops 
 iippear abundant ; orchards are neglected, though in apples 
 and pears very productive. Meadows have a peculiar ricli 
 aspect, and no doubt reward their cultivators with an over- 
 flowing recompense. 
 
 The U. S. shore, from its recent seUlement, remains most- 
 ly in woods, but where cleared presents a similar aspect with 
 the opposing bank. The progress of improvement on the 
 side of New- York, has been no doubt retarded by the land 
 remaining in the hands of a few wealthy owners, who by 
 demanding excessive prices, and by other injudicious ar- 
 rangements, have contributed to turn the tide of emigration 
 into other channels. 
 
 The timber is excessive for its quantify, variety, and gi- 
 gantic size. I had often an occasion to make a remark on 
 this subjeef* which lam unable to explaiti. When I return- 
 ed to the middle states from the vallies of Ohio and Mis- 
 sissippi, I was every where from Richmond to Boston, struck 
 with the diminutive size of the forest trees. This itnpres- 
 sion continued until I visited the upper Mohawk, where the 
 trees commenced to present tlie enormous trunks every where 
 seen on the Ohio and Mississippi waters. As I advanced 
 liorlhwards, and particularly below the Thousand islands, 
 the hemlock, sugar maple, linden, elm, pine, and two or 
 three species of hickory, rose to a majesty of size and ele- 
 vation sufficient to excite admiration and astonishment. The 
 white pine in the neighborhood of Ogdensburg, affords of teis 
 masts of upwards of one hundred feet in length. 
 
Oak is rare, and when it oceuf* does not rival in weight of 
 wood (he other trees. Excessive labor is indiipensable ili 
 clearing from its natural state, land covered with such a 
 dense forest ; formidable as it is, it is fiiiling daily before the 
 farmers and the lumber workmen. Tliough so many more 
 attractive allurements have drawn euii^^ration south- 
 west, yet the banks of the St. Lawrence are peopling slow- 
 ly. The caprices of mankind are ditBoutt to rcconelle. . 
 With a soil at least equ^I, and with a climate incomparably 
 more congenial to their habits, it is curibus tliat the north- 
 ern emigrant has so often neglected the bunks of St. Law-* 
 i-enee to seek there of the Mississippi. 
 
 Coldness, barrenness, and asperity of surface, arc tb6 
 features in which (he fancy of the people of our middle 
 states have clothed this country. No deception was cer- 
 tainly ever liiOre comple(e. The reverse is the fact in eve- 
 ry point. It is doubtful with me, whC(hci' any part of the 
 earth can exhibit a more delicious summer than this suppo- 
 sed region of frost. Spring, in the acceptation of that term 
 as commonly applied in the middle and southern states, does 
 not here exist. The transition from winter to summer occu- 
 pies but a few days $ and all Seasons are accompanied with 
 the highest behest of lieaven, health. The pale cadaverous 
 visage of hopeless disease is seldom seen. If the inhabit- 
 ants earn their bread by the sw()at of their brow, they eat 
 it with a good appetite. I am confident that the lumber 
 trade has been a severe injury to the inbabiianfs, and has 
 had no little agency in preventing a more rapid advance of 
 settlement and increase of wealtii, 1 did not converse with 
 one man on the subject that did not give that opinion deci- 
 dedly, and some even with bitterness. It is a business with 
 excessive labor in its pursuit, and with poverty and hungei' 
 for its common reward. Of all the occupations of man, 
 where the soil will admit culture, lumber merchandize is 
 perhaps the most exceptionable ; and yet, with all i(s obvi' 
 «>us ruinous consequences, hundreds, upon a soil of e.^ube- 
 
122 
 
 EIVEU ST. lAVfRENCB. 
 
 [let. X. 
 
 rant fertility, spent! their lives between cutting and floating 
 timber, and wretchedness and dependence. 
 
 Small grain such as wheat, rye, oafs, and barley, grow 
 extren)ely well. Indian corn here, as in most [ilaccs wlierc 
 late and early frosts frequently occur, mu'si be a precarious 
 crop, yet it is much cnllivated, and I ym credibly int'oraied 
 often yields a good product of twettly-live or thirty bushels 
 to the acre. 
 
 Uotioin laud, iq the sense underslocd in the rrsiddle slates, 
 there is none on the St. Lawrence. Upon the banks of the 
 Potomac, Susquehanna, Delaware. Hudson, and some of the 
 rivers of New England, alluvial bottouis are found, compo- 
 sed of the dehris, carried down by (he overflowing of tlie 
 streams from towards their sources, and deposited in the 
 form oi' rich il'ats. This latter kind of soil exists on the 
 Potomac, near Washington City ; on the shores of the Sus- 
 quelianna, near IJari'isburg ; on the Delaware river, above 
 Philadelphia to Trenton ; above and below Albany on Hud- 
 son ; in Connecticut, on the banks of Housaioniek, "Wal- 
 lingford, and more particularly Connecticut river. Viewing 
 St. Lawrence, 1 have fi-equently endeavored to imagine a 
 river, with whose scenery you were acquainted, and to 
 which this river bore a strong analogy ; but I knew none 
 possessing those strong resemblances, where preconceived 
 images could give an aecuralc conception of unseen objects. 
 The east bank of Hudson below the Highlands, and both 
 banks of that river from Newburg to Red-Hook ; the banks 
 of the Mohawk below (he Little Falls, and these of Con- 
 necticut river, near Hiddletovvn, afford landscapes whose 
 features have many traits of comparison with those of St. 
 Lawrence ; but with a tameness unseen and unknown on that 
 noble stream. It is comparing an infant to a man. a pigmy 
 to a giant, or a rill to a torrent, to conip'are any of the east- 
 ern streams of the United States to the St Lawrence. 
 
 I 'have ain ady shewn, that tlie Mississippi and its conflu- 
 ents ^Tesent features so difierent, that nothing but contrast 
 
XET, X.] RIVER ST. XAWEEN'CBi 123 
 
 can hs drawn between them and the St. Lawrence. In pas- 
 sing from one stream to the other, a new world opens to the 
 traveller, the {"ace of nature changes, the ohjeets are of new 
 species, almost of new genera, and it is ditlieuit to eoneeive 
 ourselves upon the same planet. 
 
 In nothing, however, do the two rivers so essentially dif- 
 fer as in their islands ; those of the Mississippi, like the 
 banks of that rnighly stream, are flat, many of them sub- 
 ject to overflow, none marshy ; those of the St. Ijawrence 
 are mostly elevated, never entirely level unless marshy, and 
 always of an exuberantly rich soil. Both rivers are che- 
 quered with islands, but those islands have eiiaraeters es- 
 sentially diCTerent ; those of the Mississippi follow the di- 
 rection of that river, and seldom occur in groups ; those of 
 the St. LaM'renee lie scattered promiscuously upon the face 
 of its current, and arw almost always grouped. 
 
 Of the islands of St. Lawrence, after those of the Thou- 
 sand islands, the most remarkable are the Gallops,, and 
 those in their vicinity. Yon will remember that I have re- 
 marked, that the St. Lawrence, from a little below Brock- 
 ville to three or four miles below Ogdensburgh, was entirely 
 free of islands ; then commences a large group, of which 
 that of the ancient Fort Levi is the first in descending, and 
 that of Presque Isle above point Iroquois the last. I notice 
 particularly these islands, as they are a good representation 
 of the islands of that river generally. 
 
 Wlien descending the river in the middle of May, I was 
 particularly impressed with the peculiar features of these 
 islands, and being afterwards employed to survey them and 
 the adjacent shores, became necessarily intimate with their 
 position. 
 
 Some miles above Ogdensburgh, even opposite Brock- 
 ville, a slight current is perceptible, which very gradually 
 increases, and at isle Fort Levi has assumed considerable 
 force. In the space between Brockville and isle Levi, the 
 river varies in breadth from oae to one and a half miles : but 
 
12i 
 
 EIVEK ST. lAWBENCE. 
 
 [liET. X. 
 
 a! isle Levi dilates (o near two miles mis. To (he norllj 
 of isle Levi lie a number of others, whose names being 
 merely local 1 omii, bu! vihose situation and appearance arc 
 ! , Ihe islgiiesi degree elegant and agreeable. Upon two of 
 this gs'OKp, our couimissioners encamped, and upon one of 
 wiiieh was given the fete champdre 1 have already noticed. 
 Siili iower down, eominetiees the eluster more particularly 
 designated as the GALLOP ISLANDS. Here (he riTer 
 is divided by (he prineipal Island info two channels, in each 
 of which the current runs with great velocity over ledges of 
 schistose limestone. Below tiie grand Gallop lie sealter- 
 ed ten or twelve more islands, between which, as also along 
 (he shore, the stream flows very irregularly and with great 
 velocity. Still lower down than the Gallops, and three miles 
 distant are two islartus, past Wiiich the river continues to run 
 with (he velocity of a cataract. The line between the town- 
 ships of Edwardshurg and Matilda, and of conseijuenee be- 
 tween the counties of Grenviiie and Dundas, strikes the 
 river opposite (ise Gallop islands and rapid. A short dis- 
 tance heiow (his line the river is united again into one vol- 
 ume, which iu two places, point Troquois and the Narrows, 
 is contracted inSo less than half a nsile wide, with a very 
 di ep and rapid current. Ogden's island, opposite Hamilton,, 
 again divides the St. Lawrence into two unequal volumes, the 
 nraiii stream being on the Canada shore. From this place, 
 though the river presents two parts, as the Kapid Plat and 
 Long Siiut, which are marked as cataracts, yet in reality 
 from Hismihon to lake St. Francis, the whole distance i» 
 a rapid running wifh great violence. The -ia" of liitilude iB 
 rendered in a particular manner remarkable, by striking the 
 liver at the heai! of lake St. Francis ; here the stream> 
 wiiich, from (he head of the Gallops has run with such prff- 
 digious velocity, becomes tranquil, and expands into a lake 
 of near thi! !}" miles in lengtii by three or four in width, with» 
 in many parts, low, marshy shores. Lake St. Franeis eoft- 
 
JiBT. Ot.j EiyER ST. lAWEENCE. 135 
 
 tracts at its lower extremity into (lie r:ipid of tlio Cedres, be- 
 low which, though the river oBcasionally flow» with much 
 rapidity, it gradually loses its current in the level of the 
 tides. 
 
 Between Montreal and Ogdensburgh, the navigaiion of 
 this 'great river is laborious, in some measure precarious, 
 and, without much skill and care, dangerous. It b a com- 
 pliment to the vigilance and foresight of the boatmen who 
 conduct the various rafts and vessels, that so few accidents 
 occur. A kind of keel boat, of nearly equal size prow and 
 stern, is the ordinary mode of transporting ijierchandize 
 from and to Montreal as high as Kingsion. These boats 
 are managed with great dexterity by (he Canadians, who 
 handle with equal adroitness poles and oars. The rapids 
 arc often so strong as to oblige the boatmen (o use a drag 
 line, and it is wonderful the patience with which these men 
 continue their exertions, against the force of the stream. 
 Descending demands little less labor, and more attention 
 than ascending. 
 
 Taken as a whole, I cannot conceive of a more pleasing 
 region than that along both shores of the St. Lawrence, and 
 when the United States' shore is as well cultivated and im- 
 proved as the Canadian, it will be a voyage of real pleasure 
 to pass along its current. 
 
 The iidands were claimed by the St. Regis Indians, who 
 have made a sale of their right to the soil, to David A. Og- 
 den, Esq. Except Mr. Ogden's own residence near Hamil- 
 ton, and a few settlements made upon the grand Gallop 
 under lease from the Indians, those incomparably beautiful 
 islands are mostly uninhabited. Thoir settlement would add 
 Tery greatly to the decoration of the scenery of the country. 
 Human imagination could not form an idea of places, where 
 more elegance of seite and prospect would be combined^ 
 than on almost all of these islands. The fine seat of Mr, 
 Ogden, opposite Hamilton, is an example. Clearing anay 
 
 K.2 
 
136 
 
 GENET-i. 
 
 [LCT. XI. 
 
 tlieir sliorcs wonM islso laeili(!ilc navigation, by eniibliiig 
 Imatineii (o take more adratiSage, than ss now in their |!Owci's 
 the opp'oshg eddies and enrsents-. 
 
 Yours. 
 
 LETTER XI, 
 
 Ueneta, July 22, 181S, 
 
 Deae Sik, 
 
 Bt t!ie route of Great Sodus hay, I arrived yesterday 
 in this village. I left Saekel's Harbor on Sunday, and from 
 adverse winds, could not make Sodus before Monday morn- 
 ing, and was detained there until 1'uesday morning. I did 
 iioi regret the detention, as it enabled iiic to examine the 
 bay and adjaecnt shores with some attention. 
 
 The ha.y of Great Sodus, lies partly in Seaeea ami partly 
 in Ontario counties, the division line running south from (he 
 head of the bay, having on the west, the townshij) of Sodus 
 tiie north-east angle of Ontario, and on the east, the town- 
 ship of Woleoit, the nor!h-vvest angle of Seneea coimfy ^ 
 ■with two villages, Troupsville in Sodus, standing on the 
 point between the bay and lake Ontario, and port Glsssgow 
 standing at the head of the bay in Wolcott. ?<, either of 
 these ges are yet of mueh consequence, but wii! no doubt, 
 keep pace with the progress of the adjacent country. 
 
 I have seen no map whereon Sodus is very correctly de- 
 lineated ; on both Lay's and Eddy's maps, the mouth is too 
 wide and not represented as much land locked, as it is in 
 fact. Two points project towards each other from the op- 
 posing sides of the bay. The western most of these points, 
 
lET. XI.] 
 
 SOBUS. 
 
 is composed of loose sand and pebbles, lie along the lake, 
 and is, indeed, only the rubbish thrown up hy (lie perpetual 
 surf which beals ihe shore. About half a mile from the ex- 
 tremity of (he western point, an island lies in the mouth of 
 the bay, united to the main shore by a natural causeway, 
 also formed, no doubt, by the surf of the lake. The sp-aoc 
 between the islawd and point is the entrance lafo Sodas, has 
 about 8 feet water, and leads into an excellent harbor, safe 
 from all winds. 
 
 The shores of lake Ontario, both east and west of Sodus, 
 are composed of vast banks of earth, twenty or I hir(y feet 
 high, and every where yielding to the abrasion of the waters 
 of the lake. One dense and continuous forest covers the 
 shore, oecasionaUy relieved by new farms. The country is 
 extremely beausifui, picturesque and variegated, around (he 
 hay. The soil excellent. At the time I was there, the 
 fields were yet covered with grain, harvest being rather in 
 its commencement than completed. This circumstance 
 gave me some surprize ; I had been often told that to 
 the west of Sa.ikei's Harbor, the climate became more 
 Biild in a given latitude, 'i'he phenomena, visible to mo 
 siuee my arrival here, does not tend to give force to the 
 correctness of such an opinion. Sodus stands in N. iat. 43° 
 20" and very nearly due north from Washington City. 
 
 July 21st, at 8 o'clock A. M. I left Sodus and proceeded 
 towards this place. I found the intermediate stationary dis- 
 tances nearly as follows : 
 
 Miles. 
 
 From Sodus to Griffith's, -. - — S 
 
 Reynold's, . - . , 3 — 8 
 
 VS. Mage of Lyons, - - - S — 16 
 
 Geneva Church, - « - , g — 24 
 
 Village of Geneva, - - - 6—30 
 
 On leaving Sodus. the road follows the bluffs of Ontario 
 two miles, fretjuently in view of the lake ; it then turns t« 
 abruptly south, winding along the western side of Sodus 
 
[let. Xi. 
 
 bay, an^ Oicnee over the ancient alluvion of lake Ontario 
 lo Reynold's. What is called the ridge road or natural 
 turnpike is passed at Griffith's. Contiguous to Sodus the 
 surface of the ground is broken, the vallies are, however, 
 only the fissure worn since the recession of lake Ontario ;* 
 as when (he height of the tabic land above the bay is attain- 
 ed, a plain of great extent comnicnces with very little as- 
 perity of surface. It is evident that lake Ontario has re- 
 ceded at different times. The natural turnpike is upon 
 tlie alluvial plain 5 upon this ancient shore of the lake its 
 ■waves must have beat many centuries, and yet ineonteslible 
 document exists tcj prove, that, far perhaps as many or more 
 
 *FROM THE nOCflESTER TEI-EORAPH. 
 
 " Something for Geologists. — In sinking a well at Carthage, a 
 slioi'l time since, llie worUmeii discovered twelve or fifteen frogs, 
 embedded in a layer of close comjjacted marl, about nine fcei 
 below the surface. Particular care was taken to discover whe- 
 tlier any communication with the surface could have existed; but 
 it was satisfactorily shewn that there was none. They were of a 
 lis>ht brown color, apparently about half grown, and very active. 
 They were in a kind of nest, like mice, and appeared to be iso- 
 lated from the rest of animated nature. We have heard of frogs 
 being discovered in trees, and in rocks ; but have never before 
 witnessed them so far under ground. In sinking the same well about 
 four feet farther, several more frogs were discovered in a layer 
 of loose sand, totally disconnected with the superincumbent stra- 
 tum, or svith any possible communication with the exterior. It is 
 believed by the wi iler, thattliey have existed therefrom the period 
 of the recession of lake Ontario, which is probably not less than a 
 thousand years; if so, their longevity surpasses that of Thomas 
 Parr of the moderns, or Methuselah of the ancients, and deserves 
 to be recorded. The doubter is challenged to produce his rea« 
 jions. X. 
 
 " Cflrf/ifffe, .A-OB. 7, 1818." 
 
 Though I do not believe the last recession of lake Ontario to 
 have taken place within a thousand years past, I have published 
 Ihc above as a curious fact, both in the revolutions of our globe, 
 and in the laws of animal life. Many instances are however oii 
 record of cold blooded animals existing in marl, lipicstore, and 
 marble. 
 
iE'C. SI.] 
 
 MOSS.. 
 
 centuries, this lake must have had ;t ssnfiice twenlj' or lliirty 
 feet aboye the natural turrspike. 
 
 At SejnokVs the ailuvial plain tf rBiiaaies, and a very 
 ragged, hiUy region coiamcnees. The transition is abrupt, 
 and here from every ajipearance, was the oi igina! souili 
 shore of lalie Ontario ; a! tinies the remoteness of v.hieh I 
 have not the teiiierify to attejiipt a eaicoi.ition. Above 
 liej tsoU's, the road leaves the aliiivia! piain and ascends (lie 
 hiils by a gorge, over iiie uioulh of whieh is a natural cause- 
 way, whieh was evideiuly formed by a process similar to (liat 
 whieii formed the points of Sodus bay and the natural cause- 
 way, though at least thirty ieet above (he latter. 
 
 The timber from Sodus to fhelulJs is generally compose^ 
 of heciloek, sugar maple, red oak, black oak, elm, and lin. 
 den, the soil extremely fertile though too flat j and very 
 much mixed with rounded granitic pebbk's. 
 
 The face of tlie country from Keynoid's to Lyons js ex~. 
 eessively broken ; the hills are not very elevated, but ex- 
 tremely abrupt and steep with a fertile soil, Lyons stan<li$ 
 upon the bank of the outlet of Caaandaigua lake, a short 
 distance below where that outlet joms Mud creek. The 
 village occupies the verge of the hiils, and stands upon a ve- 
 ry broken site, 'fhe route of the grand canal is traced 
 through Lyons, and up the valley of Mud creek to its source. 
 The outlet is a large creek, with banks much more resem- 
 bling a bayou of lower Louisiana than a water course of the 
 state of New- York. Lyons has a Nourishing appearance 
 amid a fine increasing settlement. 
 
 Crossing the Cunandaigua oudet I found myself upon n 
 ttountry generally level, but not so tamely uniform as (he 
 alluvial plain of Onlario. Cultivatiois now increased at ev- 
 ery step j the soil excellent, line farms, meadows and orch- 
 ards oa every side, which continued to the village of Ge- 
 neva. 
 
 Thi* is one of the few towns in America named from a 
 town in BHro])e, where common sense and aaalogy were eon- 
 
£iET. XI. 
 
 suited in the borrowed nomenclature. Geneva stands in the 
 township of Seneca, Ontario counij, at the lower estreniitj 
 of Seneca lake. Jt is built along the margin of the lake 
 extending about half a mile in length. The site of the \il- 
 lage is trui^ delightful, standing; upon a waving ridge lying 
 parallel to and rising SO or 60 feet above the water in the 
 lake ; the view of which is extensive and romantic. The 
 opposite shore in Seneca county rising gently from the wa- 
 ter to considerable elevation, clothed with timber or che- 
 quered with farms. To the north and north-cast the pros- 
 pect is also charming, and is now a sea of golden grain, rich 
 orchard or meadow ; the houses appear to stand in aa 
 ocean of plenty. I have never visited a place which seems 
 to combine in so small a compass so much to please in the 
 softer features of rural landscape. I was detained here one 
 day, and amused myself in walking along the banks of this 
 beautiful lake, and could not avoid exckiming, that here, 
 vith health and competence, could I spend the remaining 
 years of my life, without a sigh to return to the bustling 
 commercial capitals, where for so many years I had scarce 
 enjoyed a quiet day. My reveries were the dreams of fan- 
 cy excited by a weariness of travelling, the painful reeoUee- 
 tion of ahsent fiimily and friends obtruded, with the addi- 
 tional subject of regret that every day carried me farther 
 from that family and those friends. 
 
 "We are seldom left without some subject of consolation. 
 I had a letter from Gov. Clinton to Col. Robert I'ronp, of 
 Geneva, which [jroeured me a kind and friendly reception, 
 and every aid in the prosecution of my object. To this can- 
 did, gentlemanly and hospitable old soldier, I am under ob- 
 ligations that wiir carry their recollection to my grave. 
 To meet with such men when far from home antongst 
 strangers, excites feelings that no man nerd attempt to im- 
 agine, who has not been in a similar situation with me, whe^ 
 I met with the venerable Col, Troup. 
 
CANANDAIGDA. 
 
 13i 
 
 Canandaigiia, July 24, 1818. 
 Yesterday in (he aflcvnoon I quit wi(h regret the village 
 of Getievaf and proeecdt-d on loot towards Ciinandiiigua ; the 
 distance is IS wiles bj the ibllovfing stages : 
 
 Miles. 
 
 .From Geai'va to Soid's, - - - — 01 
 
 Parson's, - - 2 — 03 
 
 Dcnsiiiofe's, - - 1 — 04 
 
 Tori-Mice's, ' - 1—05 
 
 V/lilincy's, - - 2—07 
 
 ■W. I>. Mum-ay's, - 3—10 
 
 Hart's & WoodTOi'd's - !■ — 11 
 
 Canaiidaigua, - - 5 — iG 
 
 The day was excessively warm, and (owtirds efening 
 tlireatemed rain. The lowering clouds, however, contribu- 
 ted (ogive additional aniuscnient to that I enjoyed in vitwing 
 the truly charming eourttry through whith 1 was (raveiling. 
 The. face of the earth has in the intervening distance from 
 Geneva to Canandaigua, neither the dead monotony of the 
 alluvial plain of lake Ontario, or the harsh features of the 
 hilly region north of the village of Lyons. Hill and dale 
 mow present themselves with diversified hut gentle eflect. 
 
 When I had reached the slope that leads down to Canan- 
 daigua lake, evening was rapidly advancing ; the black rain 
 clouds gathered heavy over the eminences to the south of 
 tho town of Canandaigua, which was now in full view though 
 three miles distant. 'J'he scenery every moment hecarae 
 more and more interesting, and my mind more dee|jly inter- 
 ested. "While descending the steepest part of the hill, I 
 was rapidly passed by a man in a single horse carriage, who 
 stopped as soon as he gained the bottom and awaited my com- 
 ing up, and very frankly invited me to take a scat beside 
 him, which 1 j;ratefii]ly accepted. He then drove rapidly 
 forwards, as the rain coiijmenced to fall in large drops. 
 "When we came to the lower extremity of the Canandaigua 
 lake, and the extensivo fields, oTehards and meadows ueaj; 
 
1S3 
 
 CANASDAIGUA. 
 
 [LBT. XI, 
 
 the town came in view, I expressed my admiration at tli« 
 stale of improvement every where visible ; my fellow travel- 
 ler replied^" twenty nine years ago I came up this oallet, 
 «' and at that time no mark of the human hand was here to 
 " be seen, except those niftdc by savages, a village of whom 
 " existed on that point,"— shewing me (he lower end of the 
 now flaurishing town of Canandaigiia. 1 could not doubt 
 his informalioii, though there was something in the short- 
 ness of the period, wliea compared with the effects of bvman 
 liibor under my eye, thai seemed almost the efiVct of magic. 
 
 We arrived at the public house, just in time to save our- 
 geives from being drenched in a heavy shower, and after I 
 returned him my acknowledgements for liis politeness, 
 he informed me that his name was Yates, and that he wa* 
 then in his 72d year. His hales, healthy and firm aspect, 
 rendered this part of his inlbrmalien as remarkable as his 
 short but impressive hislory of Caaandaigua. The whole 
 scene was in fact one of those, which was calculated to ex* 
 hibit the rapidity of improvement in the Ij'nitcd States. 
 This man entered this then wilderness, at an age com;.ianly 
 considered as the meridian of life, 43 years ; and while yet 
 in the vigor of his limbs and faculties, a smiling residence for 
 civilized man h'tut arisen under Uia eye. 
 
 I arose this morning early, in order to examine this won- 
 der of western New- York, and was not disappointed in my 
 anticipations 5 I found it by far the uiost richly built town of 
 its extent I had ever seen. It docs not admit of comparison 
 Miih Geneva ; the two places so essentially differ in their lo- 
 eality and position respecting iho lakes on which they are 
 built, that few traits of resemblance exist between them. 
 Both arc objects of astonishment when we recollect how 
 short a period has elapsed since a forest occupied their po- 
 sition, 
 
 I found the site of Canandaigiia to be that of an inclined 
 plane, rising from the lower extremity of the lake of the 
 iame name, A valley, or rather bottom, skirls along the 
 
lET. XI.] 
 
 south side of (lie town, beyond which the eountry rises into 
 hills of considerable elevation ; to the north and north-west 
 extends a waving but not hilly country ; the east side i» oe* 
 eupied by the lake and low grounds of its outlet. 
 
 The town extends in a sireet of upwards of a mile it» 
 length fronj the lake, rising by a very gentle acclivity. Eia» 
 ny of the houses would decorate the oldest and most exten* 
 give cities in the United Suites, and from a number of places 
 the view of (he lake and surrounding country would reward 
 a tour of considerable distance. I sincerely doubt whether 
 a more desirable village exists in the United States, if in the 
 world.* ■ 
 
 * On. my return from tlie westward, and during a few days stay 
 at Canandalgua, the following statement n^ade its appearance in 
 the Ontario Repository. I have not the least doubt of its cor- 
 rectness, except as respects the population, which is certainly 
 underrated if any judgment can be formed upon the extent of the 
 town and the number of persons that are to be seen in the streets. 
 
 " THE VILLAGE OF CANANDAIGUA. 
 
 " A few days since, three gentlemen, from a laudable curiosity, 
 volunteered their services to take a census of the inhabitants re- 
 siding within that part of the town of Canandaigua, which is in- 
 corporated as a village, and to ascertain the number of buildings 
 it contains. It will doubtless be interesting to our citizens, and 
 gratifying to the pubHc, to l<now the result. 
 
 " From the statement it appears, that the village contains i798 
 iSDuIs, of whom 939 are niaies, and 859 females, and including 
 136 blacks, of whom 30 are slaves. Of the whole number, 47! 
 lire under the age of 10 years — 484 between 10 and 21 — and 83-3 
 DverSl. Of buildings, "there are 217 dwelling-houses, 39 stores, 
 7 S shops, 30 offices, and 153 stables. The above are exclusive 
 of the public buildings, viz. one congregational meeting-hotisc. 
 One episcopal church, one raethodist chapel; a court-hou.se, a 
 jail, and a county clerk's oflice ; an academy and five school- 
 houses. Of the buildings, we believe not one is vacant, except 
 half a dozen stores. It ought to be added, Uiat besides the aca- 
 demy, which is undergoing a thorough renovation, and the com- 
 mon and Sunday schools, there are two respectable private fe- 
 male seminaries^ in which the higher branches of education are 
 successfully taught. The style of building may be said to be not 
 Inferior to any, since travellers, who make public their remarks, 
 «*U otw village not only well, but extravagantly bijilt. 
 
CANASDAIQUA. 
 
 [let. XI. 
 
 Caaandaigua is the seat of justice for the ficli, fertile, and 
 flourishing coimty of Ontario, and occupies one of the most 
 eligible agricultural and coiniaercia! positions in our western 
 country ; it has now a water communication with the Seneca 
 river hy the outlet of its lake, which as I before obserfed 
 unites with Miid creek at Lyons, and the united stream meet- 
 ing the discharge of Seiseoa and Cayuga lakes, below Monte- 
 zuma, forms Seneca river. The peculiar construction of 
 this country can only he seen fay recurrence to a map; ciCher 
 Lay's or Eddy's exhibits with precision the intej'locking wa- 
 fers ; but neither have attended with sufficient care to the 
 ranges of high land. The best map, in the latter respect, 
 that I have seen, is that of Mr. John H. Eddy, of the "West- 
 ern part of the state of New- York, published in 1811. As 
 1 intend to give yon a recapitulation of the peculiar geologi- 
 cal structure of the route of the intended Grand Canal, and 
 contiguous parts, I will enter less minutely at present into a 
 topographical review of this neighborhood. You will hear 
 from me again soon after my arrival at Buffalo, and visit to 
 the Fails of Niagara. In the interim, I remain, as ever, 
 Sinieereiy yours. 
 
 " The above surely presents a flattering account of the prospe- 
 rity of the pleasant village in w'liich it is our happiness to dwel!. 
 While other places round about us boast how early they have 
 become great — how by magic their trees have been converted 
 into houses — old Canandaigua has been growing apace, display- 
 ing the sturdy vigor and healthful aspect of natural increase. 
 
 " But flattering as this account may appear, some danger is to 
 be appreliended from the number of taverns and groceries em- 
 braced in the limits of the village. Who, that lias not counted 
 them, would suspect that there are no less than fourteen taverns ? 
 Of groceries, there are also too many. The public convenience 
 does not require such a number of inns, and, their toleration can- 
 not but be detrimental to the morality of the town. Pubhc ofifi- 
 eei-s, whose duty it is to regulate these things, sliould recollect, 
 that it is much easier to prevent, than to root out the evils wliicli 
 grow from susii causes." 
 
IMT. XI.] 
 
 GREAT WESXEKIf. CAJfAI. 
 
 133 
 
 LETTEIl XII. 
 
 ^llie following correspondence took place after mj return 
 io Jfeiv-Fork, ami therefore not in order of time wiili the other 
 communications made during my tour ; but leing relerDant io 
 the subject of my letter from Genera and Canandaigua, I 
 have judged it most expedient to insert the suijcct in this 
 place.'] 
 
 ^"evi'Fork, October 2, 1818. 
 
 WiLiiAM Datibt, Esq. 
 
 Sir, — Tlie New- York Corresponding Association for tlie 
 Promotion of Infernal Iniprovenienls, solieit jour aid and 
 patronage towards the great objects of the institution. Will 
 you please to answer the following questions : 
 
 1. What canals and water cosnmtinicatioas could be cbn- 
 neeted with the line of the great western canal, in our state, 
 for the promotion of internal improvements ? 
 
 2. What great roads could be united to the iioe of tlie west- 
 ern canal, in our state, for the promotion of the same object ? 
 
 3. What advantages does New- York possess over New- 
 Orleans for supplying (he country north-west of tiie Ohi» 
 river, with goods and merchandize ? 
 
 With high considerations of respect, I am, sir, 
 Your obd't servant, 
 
 CHARLES G. HAINES. 
 
 ^ew-York, October 11, 181S. 
 
 Mk. C. G. Haines, 
 
 Sir— Yours of the 25(h ult. was duly received, but the 
 pressure of my private business on mj return from a tour of 
 nearly five months, prevented an earlier attention to your 
 communication. You request my opinion in the first instance 
 upon— 
 
" \y!>at canals and W'ator communications could be eon- 
 Siected with the line of tJie great western canal, in our state, 
 ior the promotion of internal improvements." 
 
 The most ebvious, and by far the most beneficial Water 
 eonimunieatiou tiiat can he made between the great west- 
 ern canal and cireumjacent rivers, is the contemplated canal 
 between the head of Seneca lake and the Susquehanna.* If 
 the two canals were now completed as far as Seneca lake 
 and Cajuga river, the inirabitaats of Pennsylvania and New- 
 York states, would exchange their lieavy but invaluable ar- 
 ticles of coai, gypsum, salt, iron, and pot mstah 
 
 Three obvious points f»f wafer connexion, between the 
 great western canal and lake Ontario, present themselves-^ 
 by the Niagara, Genesee and Oswego rivers, all of which 
 are obstructed by ealaraefs of more or less depression from 
 the lowest part of the plane of the canal to the surface of 
 the lake. 
 
 Before proceeding farther in tliis investigation, permit me 
 to make a few geographical remarks. Tlie commercial fa- 
 cilities naturally existing between the Atlantic slates and the 
 valleys of the Mississippi and St. Iiawrence,f may be divi-* 
 ded into three great divisions ; which we will designate as 
 the Northern, Middle and Southern. All that part of the 
 
 * Internal Improvemmts. — It appears by & report o/the conl- 
 missiouers appoiuted to explore the route of a contemplated ca- 
 nal, between Seneca lake and Tioga river, that there can be ob' 
 tained a supply of water at the summit level, adequate for every 
 purpose — that the fall towards Seneca lake is 140 feet, and will 
 require 57 locks; that towards Tioga river is 43 feet, requiring 7 
 tocksi The length of the canal is estimated at about 20 miles. 
 Among the inducements held forth for opening this navigation, 
 Are, the transportation of military stores to the frontier, in the 
 event of future w.ars, and to send our salt and plaster to Pennsyl- 
 vania, and to receive Iheir iron and coal in return."'— -JV'/Vtg'arrt 
 Patriot. 
 
 + By the valleys of the Mississippi and St, Lawrence are here 
 meant, all the region watered by the tributary streams of thes« 
 mighty iivers. 
 
lET. Xlli] GUEAT WESTEEJf EANAt. 
 
 437' 
 
 continent of North Anieriea, watered by the Sf. LawreDCc 
 river and confluent branches, to the north of the Falls of 
 Wi'dgava, must have a commercial outlet and inlet by that 
 great river, through Montreal and Quebec. — South and 
 Southwest of the Rapids of Oiiio, at the town of Louisville, 
 the produce of human industry will pass to New-Orleans, 
 and the articles of necessity and luxury, not found in the 
 country, will he purchased in that city. Between the Chute 
 of Niagara and that of Louisville, from the Allegany moun- 
 tains to the sources of the rivers of lake Superior, will . form 
 the middle commercial district, and New-York, Philadel- 
 phia and Baltimore, will divide the profits of exchange ; 
 Cincinnati, Pittsburg, Detroit and Buffalo, will be in the mid- 
 dle, what Kingston and York, in Upper Canada, will be ia 
 the northern, and what Louisville, St. Louis, Natchez and 
 Natchitoches will be in the southern division. Partial inter- 
 communications may, and no doubt will, daily occur in com- 
 mercial exchange between the points of contact of these 
 natural sections, but these interchanges must be viewed as 
 exceptions to a great permanent rule formed by nature her» 
 self. 
 
 In examining the subject of any improvement, MAN 
 »ught to seek what is practically useful, and not exhaust upon 
 idle fanciful speculation, what is due to attainable objects of 
 real utility. A water route from the Atlantic ocean to the 
 immense western waters, has now arrested the attention of 
 the most enlightened citizens of New-York and Pennsylva- 
 nia ; and the subject is one, upon which the pens of the 
 ablest politicians or economists of these great states, may 
 be most beneficially employed. It is an object worthy the 
 deepest reflection of a public mind, at once rich in experience 
 and strong in moral youth. It is to be uegretted that ia the 
 developement of our natural advantages, local prejudices, 
 party and personal animosities should impede the progress of 
 ratioaai research. It is wretched logic, to cojifoiiBd qiies'- 
 
13S 
 
 iiUEAT WESTEUJf CANAl. 
 
 [let. XII. 
 
 JioiilB of national interest, with the trifling views of faction, 
 or tlie narrow coneeptions of corporation politics. 
 I have met with two works on a siuiihir subject ; one, 
 A topograpliical description of the province of Lower 
 Canada, and on the relative connexion of both provinces, 
 with (he United Slates of America." By Josbph Bou- 
 CHETTE, Esq. 
 
 The otjicr, "A Sketch of the Internal Improvements al- 
 ready made by Pennsylvania; with ohscrvalions iipois her 
 physical and fiscal means for their extension ; particularly 
 as they have reference to the future growth and prosperity 
 of Philadelphia." By Samuel Bkeck, Esq. 
 
 "Whoever reads attentively these two treatises, will I regret 
 to say, find very nearly as much liberality from Mr. Bou- 
 cJiette. respecting the United States in general, as from Mr. 
 Bretk, when contrasting Ihe eily of Philadelphia with the 
 neighbouring cities of New- York and Baltimore, and parlie- 
 ularly New-Orleans. The latter writer indeed appears in 
 one point to extreme disadvantage, he seems to consider 
 Pennsylvania as an incidental or secondary object, when in- 
 eluded in the same prospect with her commercial capital ; 
 Mr. Bouehctle, to bis credit, extends his views to the causes 
 which may lead to tlic aggregate prosperity of all the Cana- 
 das, and does not confine his anticipations to Quebec. 
 
 To a reader unacquainted with the relative political posi- 
 tion of affairs on this continent, both of these writers would 
 appear to be inhabitants of countries environed with rival and 
 even hostile stales. This spirit of rivalry is as injurious as 
 a generous emulation would be hcnefieial to the progress of 
 improvement. The inherent principles of human nature 
 will, however, operate, maugre all that sophistry can op- 
 pose to their progress. Men will carry their superabun- 
 dance to the best markets, whether in New-York, Philadel- 
 phia, Baltimore, New-Orleans, or elsewhere. 
 
 Mr. Breek, page *i3, anticipates the time when the com- 
 jncrec of the waters of the Missouri and Mississippi, be- 
 
XET. XII.] 
 
 XJKEAT WESTERN CANAt. 
 
 13S 
 
 yond the moulh of Ohio, will eomc lo Pliiladelplilii ; in fine, 
 that aa era will an'ivc when iiuman hciags will <oil 1,600 
 niiies mosiij' up strcain, to obtain a worse market than they 
 could find by floating down stream half the distatice. If this 
 prophecy is ever realized, the old proverb, go farther and 
 fare worse," will receive a very remarkable application. 
 
 I notice Mr. Breek's work as it embodies mwh of the 
 common place philosophy on the subject upon wiiich I am 
 now descanting. To consider that gained to Pennsylvania 
 which is lost by New-York, or vice versa is just about as 
 correct, as it would he for an individual to desire a palace 
 for a residence with nuid-walied, thaiched-covercd, hovels, 
 to decorate the prospect from its portals. In fact, the ad- 
 vance of any eily or state of our common country has a re- 
 flective effect ; the science, weald), and liberal institutions 
 of any part, nsust shed their kindly beams upon the whole, 
 and the illumination must be stronger in direct ratio to ap- 
 proximation to the centre of light. 
 
 But to return to our subject. The relative territorial ex- 
 tent of the three great commercial sections of the central 
 parts of GUI' continent, is as nearly as I estimate them, as 
 follows : 
 
 SQ. M1I.ES. 
 
 Valley of the St. Lawrenec below Niagara^ 2i,0,000 
 Middle or central section, S20,000 
 South and southwestern section, 1,200,000 
 Each of these grand divisions have their appropriate ad- 
 vantages, which it is, and will continue to be the duty of the 
 inhabitants respectively to improve. Of the three, the 
 greatest number of practical and indispensablci canals and 
 roads, can and vvill be formed in the middle or central seo- 
 tioa. Until the completion of the great Western Canal bt;-- 
 tweCn the watei's of the river Iludson, and those of lake 
 Erie, that between the Seneca lake and the Susquehanna 
 river, and that between the Hudson river and lake Chani*! 
 
liO 
 
 BKEAT NVESTERlS CAN At. 
 
 [I FT. XII. 
 
 J)lain, no olhers ouglit to be ever seriously ihoiig'it of by (he 
 citizens of this state. 
 
 Youi' second inquiry is, " What Gn at Roads eould he 
 united to the line of the Weslern (;an;ti, in oiii' state, for the 
 projuotion of t!ie same ohjeet ?" 
 
 This latter inquisition would admit of a much wider range 
 than the former, if pui sued in ail its details ; there is 
 scarcely five miles upon tise whole line of the canal, from 
 which useful and necessary roads ntay not be drawn ; bat of 
 these, two obtrude themselves to immediate notice. One to 
 the village of Hamilton upon the Allegany river, in Ca(a- 
 raugas county, and the other between the towns of Buffalo 
 and Hamilton. The lately perceived importance of these 
 two latter places, has prevented their having excited the in- 
 terest they so eminenily deserve. The proper point of con- 
 tact with the canal, or its confluent waters, by the Hamilton 
 road, is sometiiing difficult to fix with precision. Geneva, 
 and Canandaigua, present each some respective advantages 
 of position when contrasted with each other 5 and have eith- 
 er a decided superiority, as points of departure, over any oth- 
 er places in this state. I have visited both these towns, and 
 from information there received, have no doubt but that ex- 
 cellent roads can be formed, from each to Hamilton, at no 
 extraordinary expense. If I was called upon to dictate a 
 plan upon this subject, I would direct the formation of a 
 turnj>ike road from both Geneva and Canandaigua, in the di- 
 rection towards Hamilton. These roads should converge 
 somewhere in the northwest angle of Steuben county, at or 
 near the village of Dansville, or Arkport, and run thence 
 to Hamilton by Angelica. No roads that could be possibly 
 formed in this state, in addition to those already made, would 
 produce so great and immediate benefits, as these I have 
 traced. If this route was laid open by good roads, it would, 
 even independent of the Grand Canal, become inslanter the 
 thoroughfare between the New-England states and the Ohio 
 Valley. To those who arc acquainted with the extent and 
 
■LET. XII.] [SREAT WESTERN CAJfAI™ 141 
 
 mass of (he (ide of eniigradon now setting southwest, and 
 annually increasing, the advantages of such a route will be 
 apparent. Much enibari-assment is now experienced bjr em- 
 igrants from Massachusetts, New-IIanipshirc and Vermont 
 states, for the want of a direct and easy means of transpor- 
 tation to Pittsburgh. No part of the western territory of 
 New- York is so thinly peopled, as the country included in 
 Steuben, Allegany and Cataraugus counties,' good roads 
 would (end greatly to encourage settlement. 
 
 Though not equal in importance or necessity wilh (he 
 roads froiii Hamilton to Cauandaigua and Geneva, yet a 
 good solid road from Ilauiillon to Buifulo, would he of great 
 usiiityand convenience to the people who inhabit the extreme 
 western section of this state. In a military point of view, 
 the liUter road would be of incalculable advantage in a war 
 with Great Britain, in opening more extensively than at pre- 
 sor.t exists, lint s of ready couituunication With our interior 
 ant) Canaiiian frontier. 
 
 It is much to be desii cd (hat a good road was also carried 
 from ilaaiiiion to Pitisbiirg. In execution of such a work, 
 the people of New-York and those of Pennsylvania ought 
 to act in concert : bo(h parties are deeply interested, though 
 (he former rather more than the latter, as the country upon 
 the Allegany is yet but thinly inhabited. From the infiu- 
 cnce of frost in winter and heat in summer, many of our 
 rivers are rendered useless as channels of communication, 
 often half the. year. This is the case wilh all our interior 
 streams nordi of Maryland. Durable roads are, therefore, 
 as indispensable as canals, and in places where heat may ex- 
 haust or cold congeal wafer, roads and canals ought to be 
 formed CO existent, and made in their (urn subservient to 
 (he facility of human interijourse, and the augmentation of 
 human enjoyment. 
 
 The road from Utioa to Sacket's Harbor, though already 
 open, demands very extensive improvements. I travelled 
 this route in the second week of last May, and found manj 
 
 L2 
 
143 
 
 GREAT WESTEUrf CANAL. 
 
 [lkt. XIT. 
 
 prirts in a ■,vre(chetl stale. The reason was indeed extremely 
 iuclement ; (in\e, therefore, that the roads could not be 
 expected to afford pleasant travelling ; hut if lliey were well 
 formed and preserved with care, they will at least always 
 secure safe eonveTance. It would be waste of time to point 
 out the very high importance of a gocd read, solid at all 
 seasons of the year, from the interior of the slate of Kew- 
 York, to the most exposed and by far the most valuable mili- 
 tary ami naval station on our Canadian border. 
 
 The fo!lo^^ing are the stalionai'y distances of each of the 
 proposed l oiids, as near as 1 have been able to esfinsate. The 
 distance and stations upon the road from Utica to Sackel's 
 Harbor, were taken from the former to the latter town. 
 The others are taken from Eddy's Map of New-York, a verj 
 meritorious work lately published : 
 
 JUiles. 
 
 From Utiea, over the alluvion of the Mohawk 
 
 river, - . - - i 1-3 
 
 Height of land between the Mohawk and lake 
 
 Ontario, - - - - 3 1-2 — 5 
 
 Village of Trenton, • - - - 8 1.=? 
 
 Sugar Creek, one of the Siead branches of 
 
 Black river, - . . 23 36 
 
 Thus far the road is now tolerable, but from Sugar Creek 
 jtjfollows, generally, the valley of Black river, and is in ma- 
 ny places barely passable, in the spring season. 
 Martinsburgh, scat of justice for Lewis coun- 
 ty, - - : - .. 14 3-4 — 50 3-4 
 Ijowvillc, - - - - 3 1-2 — Si. 1-* 
 Beer river, a large and impetuous branch of 
 Black river — a good wooden bridge where 
 
 the road passes, - . . io_ 64 3-4 
 
 ■Waterlown, on the left bank of Black river, 16—.. 80 3-^ 
 
 Brownville, right bank of Black river, 4 84 3-4 
 
 Sacket's Harbor, ~ . _ a — ^ 92 3.^ 
 
lET. XII.] BREAT WESTEHN CAN,1I. liS 
 
 A direct roai} runs from Waterlown to Saeket's Harbor, ' 
 distance 8 miles, but at the time I travelled the country, this 
 latter road was prouounced impassable. I was, therefore, 
 obliged to take the m«re circuitous route by Brownville, ami 
 of course traverse Black river twice. Good bridges havfr 
 been formed over that precipitous streatn, at Watcrtown and 
 at Brownville. 
 
 Route from Geneva to Mamiltoii. 
 Height of land between Canandaigua and Crooked . 
 
 lakes, - - - - - 30 
 
 Arkport, - , . . . 20 50 
 
 Angelica, - - - - - 20 70 
 
 Hauiilton, - - - - - .SO — 100 
 
 Intersecting route with ttie above, from Cannadaigua. 
 Naples, - - - . . 20 
 
 Arkpoi't, . - - - . 33—4.? 
 
 From the foregoing it will be seen, that the distance from 
 Geneva is 100, and from Canandaigua 93 miles, to Hamilton. 
 The land distances could be shortened by passing by water 
 from Geneva, through the Seneca and Crooked lakes, and 
 from Canandaigua, by the Canandaigua lake. If the proposed 
 roads were made, it is probable they would intersect near 
 (he Conhocton branch of Susquehanna, or between the Con- 
 hocfon and Arkport. Diverging roads could Im; easily form- 
 ed from the main lines to the heads of Canandaigua, Seneca, 
 and Crooked lakes, and thus open still more extensively the 
 ehannels of transportation, in a very improvable and im- 
 proving country. 
 
 From the head of Crooked lake to Bath or the Conhoc- 
 ton, is only about 6 miles. From Bath, rafts and boats can 
 be and have been conveyed down the Conhocton into the main 
 stream of Tioga, and finally into the Susquehanna river. 
 Route from Hamilton to Buffalo. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Cataraugus Creek, - - * - - 30 
 Buffalo, - - - • - . w -' 30—40 
 
GREAT WESTEEN CAKAI. 
 
 [let. XII. 
 
 This distance is measured upon the map direct ; it is not, 
 hftwever, probable, that a road could in reality he made in 
 Jess than 70 or 75 miles between Buffalo and Hamilton. The 
 face of the country from the Allegany river to Calaraiigus 
 creek, and for some considerabli) distance north of the lat- 
 ter stream, rises into high hills. The road would cross the 
 table land between the waters of the Ohio and those of lake 
 Erie. It may not be irrelevant to remark, in this place, a 
 circumstance of considerable import in the investigaiion of 
 the subject of the connexion between lake Erie and Ohio 
 river. By actual admeasurement, as reported by Mr. Gal- 
 latin, Brownville, or rather the Monongahcla river at that 
 town, is elevated 850 feet above tide water in Chesapeake 
 Bay ; and by careful measurement made in preparing for 
 the commencement of the great western canal, the surface 
 of lake Erie is elevated 565 feet .ibove the tide water in the 
 Hudson river at the city of Albany. From this data, the 
 Monongaliela at Brownville, is 285 feet higher than the 
 surfiice of lake Erie. 1 am well acquainted with the Mo- 
 nongaliela river between Brownville and Pittsburg, and 
 cannot be induced to consider the waterfall from the former 
 to the latter place above 45 or 50 feet perpendicular ,: which 
 estimate, if correct, would yield a fall of nearly 250 fees 
 from Pittsbui'g to Buffalo. This statement will be relieved 
 from all improbability by a very cursory glance upon a map 
 of our continent. The mucli greater distance from Pitts- 
 burg to tide water in the gulf of Mexico, than frons 
 Buffalo to tide water in St. Lawrence river will be apparent. 
 It has been found fi'om actual survey, as marked upon Ed- 
 dy's map of Niagara river, that the difference of level be- 
 tween lake Erie and Ontario is .SSi feet. Supposing the 
 gulf of St. Lawrence and the Hudson river at Albany to be 
 on a level, and the distance cannot be considerable, tlurc 
 are 565, less 334, or 23i feet as the fall of water from the 
 bottom of hike Ontario, to tide water in St. Lawrence river ; 
 « prodigious depression for the distance, and amply accounts, 
 
iET. XII.] *^REAT WESTEUIV CANAI. 
 
 fop the papidily of the rapids at Grand Gallop, Point Iro- 
 quoisV Rapid ?!at, Grand Saut, and St. Mary's Rapid below 
 MonifcaK 
 
 Assuming the above heights and depressions as correct, 
 there will be about laO feet from anj intervening point more 
 depression to reach the waters of lake Erie than those of 
 the Ohio at Pittsburg. The dividing ridge approaehes in 
 Cataragiis county, near Portland, wiihin less than five nuies 
 of lake EriCi Sailing along that lake, within about threo 
 miles from the New- York shore, this ridge appeared to me 
 to be 1000 feet high ; some of its points I was then led to 
 believe at least 200 feet still more elevated than the general 
 range of the hills. About 20 miles S. W. of Buffalo this 
 I'idge first appears distinctly visible from Lake Erie, and 
 continues in view beyond the town of Erie, and from (hence 
 gradually retires into the state of Ohio ; in clear weather it, 
 however, remains in sight from the lake, even opposite the 
 mouth of Sandusky bay. Huron and Cayahoga rivers in- 
 dent it, and when opposite the mouths of these streams it 
 disappears, but in the intervening space rises prominent 
 above the adjacent country. . 
 
 Your third and last subject of enquiry is, "What advan- 
 tage docs New-York possess over New-Orleans, for supply- 
 ing (he country, north-west of the Ohio river, wi(h goods and 
 merchandize ?" 
 
 To this interrogatory, I would ansvrer briefly, (hat as 
 matters now stand, it wowld be nearly, if not alfogelSicr as 
 cheap, to ship goods and merchandize from (he former to 
 (he latter ei(y, and have (hem (hence (ransported by water 
 (o Cincinnati, or even to Pittsburg, as it would be (o con- 
 vey them by the embarrassing land and water routes now ex- 
 isting between (he Hudson and Ohio rivers.* The comple- 
 
 * On tliis'subject I Imve since- found that I was mistaken, as 
 the following di)Cuments will sliow. If in the present situation 
 of affairs, goods can be transpoiterl as stated from New- York lo 
 Pittsburg, conseq.ii nees flowing froui the Grand Canal are easy 
 to foresee— a vejy great commercial revolution. 
 
1*6 
 
 GEEAT WESTERN CANAL. 
 
 [tET. XII. 
 
 lion of (lie canal from tlie Mohawk to tlie Seneca, and a good 
 I'oiid from (hence to Ilamiiton, wouUl, if nothing else was 
 done, change the face of affairs. New-York wonkl then en- 
 joy the benefits of lier nearer approximation to the water of 
 the Ohio ; she would he enabled to counterbalance, by hep 
 existing capital, the superior local advantages of New-Or- 
 leans ; and she would forever preserve her now relative rank 
 amongst the cities of the United States. If a direct water 
 communication was open with lake Erie, the resources »f 
 
 rnoM TUB Albany aegus. 
 
 " In our columns of to-day, will be found an advertisement for 
 tlic transportation of inerchandiz.e to the western states and ter- 
 ritories ; and we have likewise subjoined the printed lists of routes 
 to Pittsburg, tbroiigli the state of New- York, and cannot but ex- 
 press our astonishment tliat the effoits of the adventurer to ac- 
 quire for tliis state so very lucrative a branch of commerce, have 
 Liliierto been unaided by aii enlightened public. From the above 
 mentioned list it appears, that by two routes property can be con- 
 veyed from tlie city of New- York to Pittsbiu'g, in the state of 
 Pennsylvania, for five dollars per cwt. ; by a third at five dollars 
 and a half, and by a foin th, at five dollars and three quarters per 
 cwt. The largest estimate as to time, does not exceed forty days ; 
 the residue tbirty to thirty-five days. 
 
 " It has been said, tliat the western merchants are generally anx- 
 ious to buy their goods in New- York, where assortments are more 
 easily obtained, at a cheaper rate, tlian at Philadelphia : but that 
 the risk and delay of the voyage by sea, or the expense of land 
 carriage, from New- York, compels them to give the former place 
 a preference : in fine, that Philadelphia and Baltimore have re- 
 jrular forwarding cstablishmenis on which the western trader can 
 at all times rely ; while New-York for want of capital or enter- 
 prize, cannot aflbrd them the same accommodation. 
 
 The object of the advertiser appears to be, to convince the mer- 
 chants of Kentucky and Tennessee, by offering to them the choice 
 of four distinct routes, that New-York possesses advantages su- 
 perior to tiiose of P»;nnsylvania and Maryland ; that in no case 
 will his charge per cwt. equal that of Philadelphia and Baltimore 
 per hundred pounds ; and that if the purchases be made in the 
 city of New-Y'ork, the mode of conveyance now recommended, 
 on the score of safety and expedition, must claim a decided pre- 
 ference 
 
 " We confess ourselves converts to the correctness of his opin.> 
 ions — indeed, all doubt-s are removed by the eirgtimsttmce of hi? 
 
:let. xu.] 
 
 6KEAT ^yESTEUN CANAK. 
 
 <he s!ate and (his city would be stiil more enlarged. We 
 have been in the habit of undervahiing tlie regions watered 
 by (he coniiuent waters of (he Canadian lakes. The real 
 fact is, that in many respects (ho countries, contiguous to the 
 great chain of interior seas, are superior to most parts of 
 our continent of equal extent. Tlie soil is generally goo'', 
 and every where produee, in abundance, the Cereal gramina. 
 To (he west of Niagara, as iar as lake Sujjerior, (be cli- 
 mate is' mild. All the shores of lakes Erie and Miehigai , 
 
 engagement to transport at those prices ; and it is no more than 
 justice to express our conviction, that Mr. Smyth would nut un- 
 dertake what he cannot perform. Apart from the advai,tages 
 which would accrue to those of our citizens, who are immecli- 
 atciy concerned in this carrying trade, the general irit' rests of 
 our state would he greatly promoted by the success of the con- 
 templated project. The mere expenditure of one million of dol- 
 lars* per aimum, at which the transportation from Philadelphia 
 and Baltimore to Pittsburg has been calculated, enormous ap die 
 amount may be considered, would be trifling in comparison to the 
 increase of active commerce in our cities—of the immense ac- 
 cession of patronage and support to our sleam-boais and other 
 numerous establishments in the interior. 
 
 " The trouble and expense of maturing these extensive ar- 
 rangements, must have been sufficient to appal and discourage 
 an ordinary mind. Mr. Smyth deserves great ptaise for his en- 
 terprizc and perseverance, and when we consider the interest 
 which the state has at stake in the success of the undertaking, we 
 nwst heartily wish that this public spirited individual may fully 
 realize the fruition of bis hopes." 
 
 " Mbany, \6th A'oveviber, 1818. 
 " I take the liberty to lay before you the annexed Advertise- 
 ment and List of Routes to Pittsburg. In addition to Ihe state- 
 jiients therein contained, allow me to inform you, that during the 
 winter season, transportation to any point west of Albany can be 
 obtained at very reduced prices. If goods therefore were pur- 
 chased in New- York immediately before the closing of t'ic river, 
 and shipped to this city to wait for sleighing, they can, beyond a 
 doubt, be delivered at Olean for ^2.50 per cwt., with a certainty 
 of reaching Pittsburg on or about the first of April. Winter 
 transportation between New- York and ."Vlbany never exceeds 
 three dollars, and is frequently no more than two dollars per cw t.- 
 
 * We have s(!en this expease stated at three mtllions of dollars per aiitiumj 
 
GREAT "ftESTEES CASAt; 
 
 [let. XIT. 
 
 and great part of (hose of Huron, will afford fine settle* 
 meiiis. With but very few exceptions, those regions are 
 Jiealtliy and supplied with excellent water. 
 
 Let the produce of their labor pass where it may, Ih© 
 number of human beings that are now daily passing Buifalo 
 ivill soon dissipate the forests and supply their pla(:es with 
 towns, villages, farm-houses, tields, meadows, orchards, and 
 gardens. The beautiful and highly cultivated lands of th& 
 strait of Erie, are now a specimen, of what in forty yeara, 
 ■will be the landscape from Niagara to Chicaga. 
 
 " Although the navig.ition of the Allegany, from Olean to. 
 Pittsburg, may be depended upon more safely in ibe spring and au- 
 tumn than during tlie summer months, yet a person well acquaint- 
 ed with that river has engaged to convey for me any quaulity of 
 property, at least once a week, and appears to feel the utmost 
 confidence in his ability to reach Pittsburg at all times betweea 
 April and December, in eight days. 
 
 " Respectfully soliciting your influence in favor of the under» 
 taking, I remain 
 
 " Your most Olied't Serv't. 
 
 "CHARLES SMYTH."' 
 
 " TRANSPORTATION TO, PITTSBURG, THP.euGH THE STATE OP 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 The subscriber having lately formed a connexion with a gen.^ 
 tleman residing near the head waters of the Allegany river, again 
 offeis his services to the Merchants of the Western States and 
 Territories, as agent to transport property of every description 
 from the city of New- York to Pittsburg, in the state of Pennsyl- 
 vania. Assortments of goods, (not single packages, or those 
 whose bulk is out of all proportion to their weight) if shipped at 
 New- York on board the sloops of the ' Westekn Link,' will be 
 delivered at Pittsburg for Five Dollars per cwt., all charges, 
 except cooperage, included. Six months credit, with interest, 
 will likewise be given, when demanded, for approved New- York 
 or Albany acceptances. 
 
 '■ For more particular information, printed lists, of the several 
 New-York routes have been transmitted to Messrs. Richard Bow- 
 en & Co. Pittsburg, and Mr. Benjamin Armitage, No. 54 Pine.- 
 street, New-York. 
 
 "CHARLES SMYTH.- 
 
 "Slhawj, \mh Xo Member, 1818." 
 
XET. XII.] 
 
 GLEAT WESTERN CANAfci 
 
 149 
 
 It is a very gratifying anticipation, to beliold in oUr fancy 
 the epoch to eome, when this augmenting mass of population 
 will enjoy, in the interior of this vast continent, a choice 
 collection of immense marts, where (he produce of the 
 banks of innumerable rivers and lakes can be exchanged.. 
 
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 •**' 23 J4 
 
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 bo 
 
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 So'a a. 
 
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 B. ba '5 ^ -a 
 
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 S " 
 
1(S0 GREAT WESTERN CAlfAL. [iET. Xlli 
 
 on or near the shores of (he Atlantic oceaB for the conven- 
 iences of Europe, and the luxuries of (he ladies. 
 
 In the Edinburgh Review, for June, 1818, when speaking 
 of Mr. Morris Birbeck's tour in America, and the stream 
 of population passing fronii the borders of tlie Atlantic ocean 
 into the region we now call relatively western : oeeurs this 
 remarkable passage : 
 
 " Where is this prodigious increase of numbers, (his vast 
 extension of dominion to end ? What bounds has nature set 
 to the progress of this mighty nation ? Let our jealousy 
 burn as it may ; let our intolerance of America be as un- 
 reasonably violent as we please ; still it is plain that she is a 
 power in spite of us, rapidly rising to supremacy ; or, at 
 least, that each year so mightily augments her strength, as 
 to overtake, by a most sensible distance, even the most for- 
 midable of her competitors. In foreign commerce she comes 
 nearer to England than any o( her maritime power, and al- 
 ready her mercantile navy is within a few thousand tons of 
 our own ! if she goes on as rapidly for two or three years, 
 siie must overtake and outstrip us." 
 
 Such are the impressions already made in Europe by our 
 existing state, such the views of our future progress ! The 
 lounds that nature may have in preparation, to limit (he 
 prosperity, uxalth, pozver or science, of the people of the 
 United States will never be seen by either you or me. With 
 sentiments of sincere esteem, I am, dear sir, yours, 
 
 WILLIAM DARBY. 
 
 Charles G. Haines, Esq."] 
 Cor. See'ry. of the Soeie- 
 <y for the Promotion of f 
 rnternal Improvements. J 
 
i^r. xni.j 
 
 151 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 Buffalo, July 31, 1818. 
 
 Dbak Sir, 
 
 On the 24th inst. I left Canandaigua, ami arrived here on 
 the 27(h. I have, as usual reuiitfed the stationary distances, 
 as by recurrence to particular places I can more clearly 
 convey precise information upon tlie topogi aphy of the touu 
 try. 
 
 
 J)Iiles. 
 
 1 Canandaigua to Ross's, 
 
 —2 
 
 Bates's & Shan's, 
 
 3 4, 
 
 Steel's, 
 
 ± 5 
 
 Loomls's, . 
 
 i i: 
 
 Cai'ter's . - . 
 
 1 7 
 
 Church in Bloomfield, 
 
 1 8 
 
 Eggle'a, 
 
 2 1-2—10 1-2 
 
 West Bloomfield, 
 
 3 —13 1-2 
 
 Honcoy creek. 
 
 . 1,2—14 
 
 Minor's, - . - 
 
 1-2— li 1-2 
 
 ^'inker's, 
 
 1 1-2— le 
 
 Lima Church, 
 
 1 1-3—17 1-2 
 
 Brown's in Avon, 
 
 3 1-2—21 
 
 W. T. Hosmcr's, 
 
 3 —2* 
 
 Albert Hosmer's, 
 
 3 —26 
 
 Genesee river and bridge. 
 
 3-4 — 26 S-i 
 
 Sylvester Hosmer's, 
 
 3 1-2 — 30 1-4, 
 
 Caledonia, 
 
 3 1-2—33 3-i 
 
 Nash's, - . - 
 
 2 1-2—36 1-4, 
 
 Ganson's in Leroyville, 
 
 2 3-4—39 
 
 Clark's, 
 
 •is —43 
 
 Daniels's, 
 
 3 — 4r5 
 
153 
 
 [iET. xiir'. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Churchill's, 
 
 2 
 
 —4.7 
 
 Eggleston's, 
 
 1 1- 
 
 ■2 — iS 1-3 
 
 BITAVIA, 
 
 2 1-2—51 
 
 MeCracken's bridge over 
 
 Tonnewanta 
 
 
 creek, 
 
 4 
 
 — 55 
 
 "Wilcox's, 
 
 2 
 
 —57 
 
 Touseley's, 
 
 3 
 
 —59 
 
 Murder creek, 
 
 - 6 
 
 —65 
 
 Holmes's, 
 
 
 —69 
 
 Porter's, 
 
 8 
 
 —77 
 
 Miller's, 
 
 • - 4, 
 
 —81 
 
 Ilcnshaw's, 
 
 1 
 
 —82 
 
 Ilopkin's, - . 
 
 1 
 
 —S3 
 
 Atkins's, 
 
 3 
 
 —86 
 
 Averill's, 
 
 3 1-2— 88 12 
 
 BUFF'ALO, 
 
 2 1-2—91 
 
 Leaving Canandaigua, the country along the road for sev- 
 eral miles continues flat, and in some places even swampy. 
 The soil exuberantly fertile, timber, sugar maple, elm, lin- 
 den, white hickory, ash, hemlock, and some oak. The 
 farms have a line appearance, and the whole country seemed 
 Is a state of rapid improvement. The rapidity in which the 
 public houses succeed each other, evince the great publicity 
 «f the road. 
 
 Great pains have been taken in West New-York, fo open 
 and render convenient the highways ; but in few countries 
 are the construction of good roads more difficult. The rich 
 fertility of the soil, and its depth of vegetable mould, though 
 so very desirable in an agricultural point of view, oppose 
 very serious obstacles against the formation of roads. In 
 the winter season, unless when the surface is completely fro- 
 zen, travelling must in this quarter be very difficult and 
 painful. 
 
 Approaching Bloomfield, a very great change in the as- 
 peet of the ground is visible ; the dull monotony now disap- 
 
LET. xni.] 
 
 GENESEE KITEU. 
 
 153 
 
 pears, liiils gradually rise into considerable elevation. A 
 eirciimstance is here apparent lliat is really a matter of as- 
 (onisliinent. As you perceive (ho surface of the earth swel- 
 ling into eminences, you linil the ridges all lying parallel to 
 cacli other, and to the chain of lakes which form the Seneca 
 river. 'I'his configuration couliniies to Buffalo, and to (he 
 Falls of jS'iagara. In many parts of (lie road I found my- 
 self continually rising and falling over this chain of ridges ; 
 and could not avoid observing, that if their intwivening val- 
 lies were filled with water, a cluster of islands would he pro- 
 duced, of astonishing resemblance to that of the Gallops in 
 St. Lawrence river. The ridges have the same regular 
 globular swell which you will remember I have noted, as 
 ciiaraeteristie of the features of the Gallops. 
 
 Schistose limestone extremely fissured, is (he first roek 
 that is seen, overlaid by sand, rounded pebble, and vegetable 
 earth. No farther change worth notice occurs between 
 Canandaigua and Genesee river. That stream has a very di- 
 minutive aspect. I am convinced that all travellers are dis- 
 appointed in their anticipations of its volume. When I pas- 
 sed the Genesee, its waters were rippling over its pebbly bed 
 at the bottom of a deep but narrow channel, of not above 
 60 yards in width. A good substantial covered wooden 
 bridge has been erected where the road passes. 
 
 The west side of this river for about two miles, is formed 
 by what is called the Genesee flats. These arc extensive allu- 
 vial plains ; the part passed by the road is held by the Seneca 
 Indians, and like all lands under the control of savages, lies 
 mostly in its natural state. 
 
 Passing the Hats, a country conimenees essentially diHer- 
 entfrom (hat east of Genesee. Oak becomes now the jn^e- 
 valent timber, a very serious deterioration of soil prevails, 
 every object bespeaks a region of mucii less producdve pow- 
 er, than that which gives bloom to the vicinity of Geneva 
 'ind Canandaigiia. Farms are now less frequent, and have 
 
 M 
 
154 
 
 TONJrEWANTA CSEEK. 
 
 [lET. XIII. 
 
 far less prosperous features than those I so much admired to 
 the eastward. 
 
 Approaching Balavia, tl»e seat of justice in Genesee coun- 
 ty, anodier change presents its variety ; ponds and iSats in- 
 tervene amongst the hills, and give to the hotlonis of the 
 Tonnewania tlieloukof recent and moist aiiuvion. Batavia 
 is a flourishing village, hut to iiie, neither its itnps ovements 
 or scite was so pleasing as I expected. I remained one 
 night in this town, (July 2Sih) and on the morning of the 
 26th sat out for Buffalo. The road follows for some miles 
 the valley of Ihe muddy and sluggish Tonnewanta. Had not 
 the liniher prevented such a deception, I might have imagi- 
 ned myself following the sinuosities of a stieam of the low- 
 er Louisiana ; hut the <hu)i green of the immense hemlock 
 fo?'ests, reminded me (hat I «as tracing another region. 
 Hemlock, heech, sugar maple, and linden, compose the mass 
 of thetimher. The soil is excellent, hut loo ilat for either 
 health or very beneficial culture. Schistose limestone forms 
 the hasp, overlaid as I have hcfoi'e noted. 
 
 After passing a short distance over Mui der creek, the road 
 leaves the Tonnewanta, and rises into a hiiiy, broken country, 
 in which, however, some tolerable extensive flats occur. 
 This part of the country is rendered most wonhy of re- 
 mark, from the enormous masses of schistose fissured blue 
 iimeslene. Many places are seen where this rock covers 
 large spaces, and has every appearance of having once form- 
 ed the bed oi a body of water. I did not perceive the exis- 
 tanee of shells in the composition of this stone, but my lime 
 and opportunity was too limited to admit extensive research ; 
 to noie the general appearance of the country was all that 
 was in my power, 'i'imher in this neighborhood, pine, elm, 
 sugar maple; soil fertile, though agriculture must in many 
 places be inconuuoded by the large bodies of naked or slight- 
 ly covered limestone. 
 
 Water courses all flow north-west into the Tonnewanta, 
 and every where wash the rough surface of the fractured 
 
lET. xm.] 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 155 
 
 Iijiies(one, and before reaching the main stream fall over 
 considerable precipices of the same rock. 
 
 Five miles from Buffalo, at Atkins's, near the seat of 
 judge Gran.s;er, the last of those creeks cross the road, and 
 within about two hundred yards to the north of where it 
 passes, the road falls down a considerable ledge. The coun- 
 try (hen assumes a waving rather than a hilly appearance, 
 to within about a mile from Buffalo, when an almost uniform 
 plain commences, which is terminated by the banks of lake 
 Erie. 
 
 It was evening when I arrived in Buffalo, therefore unable 
 to gratify my curiosity by a review of (he place until the 
 morning of the 28th. Tiie events of the last war between 
 the Uniied States and Great Britain, had rendered Buffalo 
 an object of intisrest to the American traveller. I also felt 
 anxious to see lake Erie, which in addition to its natural po- 
 sition, had also gained a rank amongst the parts of our coun- 
 try, which during the same war that exposed Buffalo and 
 Wasliingfon to the flames of an incendiary, also gave re- 
 nown to the nation, and left land-marks of glory which will 
 only be effaced by the rniii of the world and human litera- 
 ture. 
 
 I arose early in the morning and hasted to examine thes 
 village and its vicinity. Like most other new towns, Buffa- 
 lo is composed in great part by one street following the 
 course of the road towsu'ds the eastward, though the town 
 itself lies very nearly in a north and south direction. A few 
 others cross the main street, but are but little improved. 
 But very little appearance remains of the desfrnctive rage 
 of war. Most of the houses are rebuilt, but as in Kingston, 
 some vestiges still exist to attest the fury of invasion. Ma- 
 ny good and convenient, and some elegant dwellings and 
 store houses have been erected since the termination of the 
 last war. Three or four excellent inns, and many decent 
 taverns offer their accommodations to the traveller. 
 
156 
 
 [LKT. XI II. 
 
 I The natural sidiiilion of the (own of BiiflU'o. (hough 
 presenting no(hing eidier grand or striking, is nevcriheless 
 extremely' advan(ageous as a coniKiercial depot. Tise at- 
 tendant diagraio will exhibit its relaiive siliiaiion as rcsr.ecls 
 lake Erie, Euftaio creek, and the a<'j<siniiig 'jjarts of New- 
 "jLOt'ii and Ckoiada ; hut eantiot convey an iule(jija(e concep- 
 tion of (he n)i[!i!(e feadues of iis local. BulT.ilo ereek en- 
 ters lake Eiie aieanderiHg over an alluvial jiiain, Mhose sur- 
 face is not eievaled above llie ordinary level of lake Erie 
 ji.oic ilian four or five i'cvt. This plain (■x(ends down the 
 lake andSiagara river, terminates above Black lioek, and 
 is about 300 yai ds wide. Rising above lliis [>kin fifieen or 
 twen(\ feet, extends another level composed of sand. l oiiiided 
 pebble, and a substratum of vegetable earth. Upon the 
 latter stands the (ow n of Buffalo. 
 
 The ereek is formed hy the union of Cayuga. Seneea, and 
 t.izenovi bninclH s ; v\!iieh rising: in (he hiils (o llic 
 south-east, aiJiiroach Eiifi'.ilo by a very rajyid current, 
 \vhich, however, sulisidis befme the uiiitni wuleis reach 
 lake Erie. Seneca and Cayuga creeks rise in (lie lown- 
 ship of Sheldon, in Genesee county, iu(eriock with (lie 
 'l<!iuiewan(a, and l!ovv nearly parallel (o each ofhei' (o- 
 Mards the not lis- west, enter ?(iag.'\ra couniy, and contin- 
 uin;; the same direction about twenty miles in comjiaraiivo 
 course, (urn to the west, and unite i!ve mihs a Hide 
 south (if east from the (own of Bufl'a'io. Cazenovia ereek 
 rises in (ire souili-east angle of Kiagara couniy. inierioci-.ing 
 with (he liead waters of Cataraiigus, flows nearly parallel to 
 Seneca, falls in(o the united slreanis of Seneca and. Cayuga 
 iiiree miles soutli-east of BuiTalo. and from thence (o (heir 
 jiinc(ion with lake Erie (ake a common name witii the (own. 
 
 The harbor formed by (iiis ereek is exeeUent and perfectly 
 safe frons f.ll winds; but from (he shaliowncss of (be biir at 
 iismoudi, will only admit smail vessels of four or five feet 
 draught. A light-house is now standing upon (Jie poin( be- 
 tween (he lake and creek, and is certainly a gicat cor.ven- 
 iencc to persons navigating (he lake, 'i'he creek is navigable 
 
lET. XIII.] 
 
 fo!' !)oa!s to (lie first forks above its moiidi, from whence 
 upvvait's it is inters'aptcd by falls. 
 
 L:ifge vi's-iels isve fbiigi-d lo be aneliorcil out in (lie lake 
 or fiiii tliiiin below Eire! isiufid in the in(»ii(h of Kiagara 
 river. TIk: current coiiimenccs to he appurtnt opposite the 
 mouth of Biiifaio creek, bui is (here very genile, graUtlally 
 and ini}jeri i'|jf ibiy aiigiiicntiMg iis i!ie stritit eontraets, until 
 ©pjiositj' Bliu k Rock, whore the whole volume is less than a 
 mile wide ; the veloeiiy of (he sireain eaiiiioi be less lhaii 
 five or six iisiies at) hour, with a medium deplh of from 
 (weniv to tfisr!}- feet, 
 
 I walked -lown she beaeh from the mouth of the creek to 
 (he village of Black Rock. The gri^aiest part of the dis- 
 (ance (two oulcs) is a siHid hmk. From ilie iiioulh of the 
 ci'cek about half a riiiSc (ho shoie is lovv, bui then rises iato 
 a ridge of a( least ten feet pei pcH.iieu'ar height above the 
 waler. This enor nous bank of ssiml anil flat pebbles has 
 been proihieed by (he dashing of the waves for unlimited 
 ages, and is no doubt daily aeeuiiudaling. Its elevation 
 must originate with the winds unaided by the water, as no 
 storms that could now occur, would ever raise the surge of 
 the lake to the higher part of the bank. 
 
 Bird island is nothing more than a mere ledge of rocks 
 rising above the surface of the water, but admirably situated 
 (o shelter vessels from almost all winds that could much af- 
 fect (hem in this place. 
 
 Ever since my arrival on (he St. Lawrence waters, I have 
 been impressed with reiterated facts, which eoinbine to prove 
 the gener.il prevalence of a current of air which moves in 
 the same direction with the waters. So incessant is the 
 prevalence of this wind upon the St. Lawrence, below the 
 Thousand islands, that the entire forests have a visible bent 
 to the north-east. The same effect is very perceptible near 
 Sacket's Harbor, and after crossing the Genesee river (rav 
 oiling westward, becomes more and more apparent as lake 
 Erie is approached. The orchards are particularly influen- 
 
 M 3 
 
158 
 
 ULACK EOCK. 
 
 [let. xm. 
 
 ced by (his current, anil between Batavia and Biiffiilo are so 
 ifegularly and so utiifornily bent eastwards, as lo appear al- 
 most the effect of design in liiose who have planted the trees. 
 Near the beach of lake Erie, tliis, I may say, almost iin- 
 tihanging wind has forced the forest trees to assume a stoop- 
 ing posture. 
 
 July 29th I visited Black Eoek. This is a small but ap- 
 parently a thriving village, two miles north of, and built 
 upon the same plain with Buffalo. Here the banks of the 
 Niagara river or strait, present a very exact resemblance 
 •with those of the St. Lawrence, fi'om Brockville to Hamil- 
 ton. Rising by gentle acclivity from the water; both sides 
 of the river being cultivated afford a fine prospect, though 
 from its longer settlement, the Canada shore is much more 
 improved than that of New-York. Unless in a cataract, I 
 never before witnessed so large a mass of water flowing with 
 such prodigious rapidity. The bottom of the river is com- 
 posed of smooth rock, over wliich the water glides. If 
 the stream flowed over broken masses of stone it would 
 be impassable. 
 
 After viewing Black Rock I took advantage of a boat go- 
 ing down, and hasted towards one of the great objects of 
 iny journey, the Falls of Niagara. The day was intolerably 
 •warm, with scarce an air of wind to move a leaf. I found 
 <he river much more winding than I had expected from the 
 maps I had seen. Our boat followed (he west channel, leav- 
 ing Grand island to the east. Passing this island I was 
 struck with its remarkable resemblance to many of (he St. 
 Lawrence islands, having a similar swell rising from the 
 water. Some new openings are now making, but the great- 
 est part of its surface is yet forest. I had no means of ex- 
 amining (he timber, but at a distance the trees had a similar 
 jiiixture with the opposite shores, hemlock, sugar map1e> 
 elm, oak, and linden.* 
 
 * Since my return to New-York, the following appeared in the 
 
XET. Xtll.] 
 
 TONNEWANTA CKEEK. 
 
 159 
 
 Tonnewaiita and Ellieod's ercek enter the eas( channel of 
 Niagara strait very nearly apposite to (lie middle of Grand 
 island. Extensive niarahes and swamps skirt the Tonnewan- 
 Sa from its nioutli, for more than twenty miles upwards- 
 Tliis ereck or rather river, rises in llie town of Orangeville, 
 in the south sidef of Genesee eounty, interlocking with tiie 
 sources of Cataraugus and Bufiiilo creeks, and with some 
 streams whicii enter the west brand) of Genesee river. 
 From its source the Tonnewanta crosses in a northern direc- 
 tion Orangeville, Atliea, and Alexander townships, reaehes 
 Batavia after flowing about (weniy-(ive nsiJes ; it thence 
 gradually curves to the north-west, west, and south-west by 
 west, falls into Niagara river forty miles from Batavia. hav- 
 ing an entire course of sixty five miles. This stream has 
 now become an object of interest, from the circumstance of 
 
 public prints, extracted from the Niagara Journal, published at 
 Buffalo. 
 
 FROM THE NIAHARA JOUKNAI,. 
 
 " Population of Grand Island. — A verj' considerable settlement 
 of squatters has been made upon this island, principally in the 
 course of the last season. There are now. we are informed, more 
 thau one hundred families, collected from all quarters j many 
 from Canada and the middle counties of this state, and coKside- 
 rable improvements are making, flie island is situated in the 
 Niagara river, and commences about three niiles beiov/ 31ack 
 Rock, and extends to within a mile and a half of the falls. It is 
 twelve miles long, and from two to seven miles broad. The 
 ■whole of it, before the recent inroads, was clothed wiih heavy 
 timber of an excellent quality. The soil is said Co be strong and 
 rich, well adapted to cultivation. Tiie title to it iics no; yet been 
 determined by the commissionei'S, but it is gejierally adi.iitted to 
 be within the territory of the United States. Our readei-s will 
 probably recollect, that the Indian title to Jliis aiid the other 
 islands in the Niagara was ceded to the state of New-York, by 
 treaty made at Butfalo, on the 12th of September, 1815, between 
 Gov.' Tompkins and others, commissioners on the part of the 
 state, and the chiefs, &c. of the Sepeca nation. The state paid 
 one thousand dollars down, and secured an annuity of five hun- 
 dred dollars This island will probably, at no distant period, be- 
 come very populous, and highly cultivated." 
 
[l.liT. XIII- 
 
 lis bet! being fus' son:e (lisliiiife itilemktd as {lic loutc of (lie 
 GsT^iui Ciiiiiii ; hsnii toniigiious (o ihc lower i nil of Us 
 coui'se fVom Bii(avia, is, iis 1 have ah'caily obsfi ik1, subject 
 in uiaiiy places, to siibnicrsioii by wiiler. It is navigiible 
 for boats upwards of tAvcfs'y iSiilcs fioiii its mouth. Be- 
 tween the iiioiith of t!ie Tonnewanlii and old Ftist Stblossei', 
 the marshes in sunse places border the strait ; and vliat is 
 reniarkubie, the Chijipeva river entering the Canada side a 
 short distance above the fulls, exhibits ia sonic nicasurr, 
 sisiiilar phenomena with the 'i'onnewanta. Seen frcta the 
 strait below the lower extreniiiy of Grand isle, the whole 
 adjacent conntj-y appears almost level, no elevation being 
 visible that Kiuleiiiiiiy breaks the nsonoSony of the land- 
 scape. Tiio strait here (urns nearly abruptly to ilie v. est, 
 and first exposes to view the cioiid that constantly rises from 
 the cataract. Nothing is seen, however, that anticipates in 
 any manner the subiiiiic and awful some below ; even lliu 
 rapid current that sweeps past Black Eock, is now tranquil- 
 lized : (he strait is here nearly as still as a lake on the|U. S. 
 shore, and flows gently on that of Canada. Xavy island is 
 a small extent of land lying in the Canada channel, at (he 
 lower extremity of Grand island, below v^hicb cotnnienees 
 the rapids that precede the cataract of Niagara. I passed 
 between Navy and Grand islands, and landed near old Fort 
 Schlosser, and walked dow n the shore to LThitney's, oj;posi(c 
 tlicjfaWs ; it was near sun-set, silence began to reign ovei* 
 the face of nature. Slowly and at intervals I beard the 
 deep, long, and awful roar of the cataract ; my mind which 
 for years had dwelt with anticipation upon this greatest of 
 the world's trails, approached the scene with fearful solici- 
 tude. I beheld th« permanent objects, the trees, the rocks ; 
 and I beheld also the passing clouds, that iriOnientarily flitted 
 over the most interesting picture that nature ever painted 
 afid exposed to the admirivtion of infelligent beings, with 
 n.o.-e than my common forbearance, I concluded to behold 
 
KIAGAEA rAl.LS. 
 
 amitl the beams of a l isitig san the greatest objt'cl cvcf pre- 
 sciiU'.d 10 huiMiiu view. But \Uiilsf the stars <ii" (he liight 
 gleaiiiot! ihfoiigli the mhiy aiinospiiere of this iipparenliy 
 i'aii'.V liinil. 1 walked Foi'tli (o fht- margin of (he eatariit-t, and 
 in ftuioj eoiieciveil (he beauties, the horiors, and the won- 
 ders (he eoiiiiiig niovn woii'd {iroduee. That ijiorn ojjciied, 
 (Jui;, .>Oih) it was elear atid serene ; I hasl< (! to (he verge of 
 thi- ealaiuet j ! expeeied lutieh, and Mas not diBappoinied. 
 The poiiit of hiiid above A. is a thseiv wood stawiing upon a 
 slopiiig bank. 'I'he noise of the caiaraei is heard, bnt its 
 feadnes unseen, uii!(l the observer advanees (o (he verge of 
 llic I'.ili ; it is the-.i seen so ohiitjuelj as to deslrov iss best 
 eiil'et. IK'feelive, iiowever, as was this pei'sjieelive oi* Kia- 
 gara, it presented beauiies iniinitelj' transeentihig any 1 iuu! 
 ever seen before. 1 stood upon the very slope over v.hieh 
 ihe torrent ruslied. and for many ininsiSes ibrgol every other 
 objeet exeept, Ihe uiideseribabie seene before nie ; but when 
 the fervor of iniaginafiun had in some measure suiisided, I 
 beheld under my !'ee(, carved on the smooth roek G. ii C. 5 
 "XV. P. a!id J. }J. and many other iiiitia's of friends (hat had 
 visited tliis ineoiiiparablo spot, and left these memoriu, sliat 
 friends Oiily eonld understand. On beholding these reto!- 
 Icelions of liome, you will forgive ine v^hen 1 aeknow Icdgo 
 liavingdropt upon their traces (ears, (hut were rapirily swal- 
 lowed in the vortex of Niagara. The beams of iimrning eaine, 
 and glaneed upon the curlmg vohinies that rose froisi the 
 abyss beneath; my eye searched the bottom of (his awfn) 
 gulf, and found in its bosom darkness, gluoni, and indeseri- 
 bablelumult. My reJlections dwelt upon (his never ending 
 conllic(, (liis eternal march of tiic elements, Knd my very 
 soul shrunk back upon itself. 'J'lie shelving rock on wliicii 
 1 stood trembling under my feet, and the ii-resistible flood 
 before mo seemed (o present the pictured iuinge of evanes- 
 cence. The rock was yielding piecemeal to ruin, fragment 
 after fragment was borne into the terrible ehasin beneath ; 
 
ISi^ij NIAaAnA FAILS. ftET. XIII. 
 
 and (he very stream (!iat hurrii'd (bese broken mossels to 
 destruction, wiis itself a iiioii(ni!<!iil of c!iaiiu;jj3;; jn)wei\ 
 
 I reti-aced my steps to Col. VVhiiney's, aud iiifer breakfast 
 returned, and descending llie almost perpeisdieular bank of 
 ro(-ks, found myself under ihe tremendous FAhL OF 
 WATER, that even in descrijiiioii has excited (lie adiiiira- 
 lion of euliivated man ! 1 crossed liie jS'iagura strait about 
 2.''0 yards below (he chute. The river was in some measure 
 ruffled by the conflict it had sustained above, but no danger 
 approached the passenger. Perpendicular walls of rock 
 rose on both sides, to the appalling elevation of between 
 three and four hnndred feet. Tlie trei s w liich crowned the 
 upper verge of this abyss appeared like shruiis. 1 was 
 drenched to the skin by the spray of the cataract; but (be 
 sublime scene towering over my iiead, was too impi'"ssive to 
 permit much reHection upon a momentKry inconvenience. 
 The river below the fall flows with consideiable rapidity, 
 but with less velocity or turbulence ihati 1 iiud been induced 
 to expect. The opposing banks arc pi-rfecily sitiiilar, both 
 being perpendicular about half the descent ; below which 
 enormous walls extend slopes, composed of the broken frag- 
 ments ihat have been torn from their origitiui position by 
 the torrents from above. Most maps of Niagara are very 
 defective, (he river being represented too straight, 'l"he 
 best delinea^on of this phenomenon which I have seen is 
 contained in (he map of Niagara river, published with Gen. 
 "Wilkinson's Meoioirs. In that draft, the river above the 
 falls is repri'sentcd, as it is in fact, flowing almost westward. 
 Below the chute the streatn flows abruptly to the north-east, 
 which course it pursues more than a mile, from whence i6 
 again resumes a norlhern direclion, which, with some par- 
 tial bends, it continues to the place of its final exit in lake 
 Ontario. 
 
 Between thclower extremity of Grand isle and the mouth 
 of Chippewa river, the Niagara is upwards of a mile wide,, 
 but contracts a little as the vapitls commence. The bankt 
 
LET. XIII.] NIASAKA SALLS. iSS 
 
 as higli as Chippewa river, are not very imidi elevated above 
 the surface of iSie strait, but apparemlj rise in fiescentfing 
 to flie pitch or chute. Tliis change of relative height is oa- 
 ]y a deception in vision, occasioned bj the wear of the caSa- 
 r.Tcf. After crossing as I have already mentioned, I traversed 
 the Canada shore to the liank above the grand or Canada 
 chute. On (he diagram enclosed, I have uiarked the letter 
 C. upon the spot, from wliere the best view can be taken of 
 the falls, rapids and islands. Many persons have insisted 
 that the best view of the falls is to be had from Goat island. 
 At this uiiie I cannot form a cornparative judgment, as the 
 bridge built by judge Porter, i'rom tiie New -York shore to 
 Goat island, was broken by the ice of last -winter. I am 
 doubtful of the fact, of the falls being seen to very iiineh 
 advantage from this island, as the perspective must be very 
 oblique. The rapids are, however, but little less worthy of 
 a visit than the falls themselves, and can no doubt be seen 
 with much greater effect from Goat islans! than from either 
 Bhore of the strait. The rapids indeeii on tlie Canada chan- 
 nel is a scene of sublimity and grandeur, Tumbling over 
 ledges, many of whicii are 8 or 10 feet perpendicular de- 
 scent ; these rapids are in fact a chain of cataracts, over 
 whicli the immense volume rolls its terrific mass towards the 
 still more awful scene below. 'J1ie iVew-Ycrk channel hag 
 also its appropriate beauties and attractions to the traveller j 
 many small islands covered witli cedar stand between the 
 main shore and Goat island, round wliich the foaming surge 
 dashes with endless rage. One of these islets hangs upon 
 the brow of the falls, and produces a small middle sheet of 
 ten or fifteen yards wide, standing in mimic majesty "betw een 
 the two gigantic torrents on each side. 
 
 No adequate idea can he formed from description of (his 
 wonder of interior North America. Its pitch in feet, its 
 width, velocity, and consequent mass, can be estimated with 
 eionsiderable accuracy ; but the effect upon the mind can only 
 be produced from actual view. If the massy walls of rock, 
 
HiAGAUA TALLS; 
 
 [let. xiir. 
 
 and tlie lapids above arc e:vcej)k'd, there is nolljing nearKi- 
 a.!;ara (hat is siriUing in ihv sci nerj. It is loft ulont; in sim- 
 and subiitne diguily (o siriLu ilie sou! a sonsrilion 
 
 that 5oss of life or souse alone can ohliSei ali-, hut (he na(urc 
 of which no language can convey. If (oweriiig nioiinlains 
 smd craggy rocks siii roundrd Niagara, I cannot hul h« lis-vc 
 tha( iiitich of its fine effect ivotild be lost ; as it exists it is 
 an image whose whoie contour is at once seen, and the re- 
 collceliun unlMoken by extraneous objects,'* even sound is 
 
 * A few days after my rctiu-n to llu; city of New-Yoi k, I had 
 the pleasure to read the fotiowhig linos, from the 4th eanio of 
 Cliilde Harold, by Lord B^yron. It is a desei'iption of the cata- 
 ract of Vehiio. Words of lire ! used to paiot to the sou! ho ob- 
 ject, no doubt worthy the nfigiity genius of the greatest iiiodem 
 poet; but an object coi!]i>aied to whicii, Nia,;arn is as a tower- 
 ing oak beside a rose shrub. If Lord Byron Jiad given inteilec- 
 tiial existence to tliis grand effort of a master mind, under the 
 very sjn ay, in view of the emerald verge, a)Kl with his sord arous- 
 ed to iieavcn by the soand of the waleis of Niagara, bis ioi.ige 
 would not more vividly pourtray this scene, whose traits only a 
 poet can describe. 
 
 " T!ie roar of waters ' — from the !:eadlong height 
 Velino cleaves the \vav<vworn jirecipiee; 
 The fail of waters! rapid as tiie light. 
 The tiasaing mass foams shaking the abyss ; 
 The hell <;f waters! wiiere they bow! and iiiss, 
 And boil in endless torture; while tlic sweat 
 Of their gi-eat agony, wrung out from this 
 Their Phlecethon, curls round tlie rocks of jet 
 That gird the gtdf around, in jjiii'e.^s horror stt. 
 
 And monnts in spray the skies, and thence ngnia 
 i^! turns in an nneeasieg sliowcr, which round 
 With its unemptied eloiid of gentle rain. 
 Is an eternal April to the ground. 
 Making it all one emerald :— how profound 
 The gulf! and liow the giaiit element 
 From rock to rock leaps with delirious hound 
 Crushing the cliffs, wldch, downward worn and rent 
 .With his fierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent 
 
 To the broad column which rolls on, and shows 
 More like tlie fountain of an infant sea 
 Torn from the womb of mountains by the tliroes 
 Of a new world, than only tlius to be 
 
IKT. XIII.] 
 
 KIAGAUA FALLS. 
 
 165 
 
 subservient <o the impression made upon (lie lieart, none is 
 heard except (he cternul roar of (lie cataract. I would 
 liuvc been rcjuict J to iiave seen this pluee in a tempest. 
 Tiie whole lime I was there, the wealher, thoiigli warr.i, 
 was otherwise serene and pieasant. Amid liie howling of 
 the i)];ick north-west wi'.i<l Niagara must have somelhing of 
 more (liati common interest. I am inclined never! htless to 
 believe, that winter alone can give all i!s most appropriate 
 attendant imagery to the falls. But a( all times, at all sea- 
 sons, ami I might saj by all minds, will (his matchless pic(ure 
 b.? viewed with wonder and delight, and remembered with 
 IVelings of pleasure. 
 
 Many silly remarks are however made respecting (he 
 falls: tlicir plunging into an abyss of which no one knows 
 the de!)(h is one. 'i'lie waters mostly fall upon an inclined 
 plane, formed by (he broken fi'agmen(s of rocks wbieh have 
 been and are daily falling from (he precipice over whieli (he 
 waters are ps*ecipita(ed. Canoes and other vessels being 
 carried to the verge of the fall with persons in (hem, gliding 
 
 Parent of rivers wliicii flow gushingly, 
 
 Willi many windings, tinongh (lie vale : — Lookback! 
 
 Lo ! where it coaics like an elcrnity, 
 
 As if to sweeji down all things in ils ti-ack, 
 Charming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract, 
 
 Il-orrihly beaiiliful ! but on the verge, 
 
 From side to side, beneath the glittering morn. 
 
 An !kis sits, amidst the infernal surge 
 
 Like HOPE upon a deatii-bed, and, nnworn 
 
 Its steady dyes, wliile al! around is (orn 
 
 By the distracted waters, bears serene 
 
 Its brilliant hues with ail (licir beams iiiisborii 
 
 Resembiing, 'uiid the torture of (lie scene, 
 Love walcliiiig madness with unalterable iiieiii." 
 
 Only witli this description, can be compared that r,f the Cha' 
 rybdis by ilomer : it cannot l)e deemed presumption to say it lias 
 no other equal in human liternturo. Let any person cf wnnn 
 fancy, read these lines in view of Niagara, 'in a fine snnimer 
 morning, and while the Iris beams upon las eye, be will exclaim, 
 "' this indeed is the language of carapturcd poetry.'' 
 
1S6 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 [let. XIII. 
 
 rapidly but smoolhly to destruction, is another romasee : 
 any vessel whatever, would be dashed to splinters by the ra- 
 pids before eoniinj; within half a n)ile of the cimtc. 
 
 Unless it may be fi'om Goat island, which I did not see, 
 the best situation to see the falls, is from the Table Rock,* 
 or to my mind more safe and more pleasant from the hill 
 above. Mi'. Whitney is now eonstrncling a stairway from 
 the New-York side, to lead down to the margin of the stream. 
 This work, when completed, will afici'd a more safe and 
 commodious passage than (ho wrcteiied ladder down which 
 the curious traveller has been hitherto conveyed. f 
 
 * Before my return from Detroit to Buftalo, a fragment of 
 rock on the Canada side, supposed to be the Table Rock, broke 
 and fell. It was not iiowever the Table Rock that fell, as the an- 
 nexed extract will explain. 
 
 " FALLS OF NIAGARA. 
 
 " Mr. Salisbury— I have seen it o!)served in your paper, that 
 the celebrated Table Rock, had precipitated itself into the Niaga- 
 l-a river. This is not correct. The part that fell did not extend 
 to within 50 yards of t!ie Table Rock; it was about 20 rods in 
 length, and from 1 to 4 in breadth. This part, the day previous 
 to its fallmg. was passed over by a large party of visitors. Per- 
 haps it H-ould be proper to state, that since that event, (which de- 
 stroyed the pathway) Mr. Forsyth has constructed a new and safe 
 pathway to the Table Rock." — Buffalo pap. S. 
 
 t " Goat Island. — Tins beautiful Island, which divides the 
 Falls of Niagara, seems to have been rent frorn the American 
 side by some violent convulsion of natni'e: the strata of rocks, 
 Ihe soil, and the growth of the timber corresponding with those 
 upon the nialn land. 
 
 " The diflicultics of approach to this island have, in all pro- 
 bability increased with tiiiic, and as the ilill has receded ; for we 
 are informed, that It was once a place of frequent resort for the 
 French garrisons In Niagara and Schlosser, and of the British 
 who succeeded them. Ti}ere are numerous inscriptions uj)on the 
 trunks of the trees, some of which are obliterated ; the earliest 
 now legible is of the year 1769. The only mode of access hi 
 those days, was to drop down the current from Schlosser upon 
 the point of tlie Island, and great care and circumspection were 
 necessary by avoiding the draft of the current, to escape being 
 carried over the tremendous precipice. But in later times, al- 
 
XET. Sin.] 
 
 KIAGABA TALIS. 
 
 167 
 
 Tisifors jsierease anniiiillj. 'Mr. Forsjth, kcejpr of (!ie 
 piif)lic inn on Ihe Canada shore, has kept a ivgisier of (he 
 names of persons who liave lodged at his house on their 
 visit lO iViagara Tlie number of names are considerable, 
 and eacli sueceeding year (he excess becomes greater. In 
 no other situation in the United States can buihlings and oth- 
 er accoramdaliuns for the use of travelh>rs, be established 
 with more certainty of remuneration. The cause that leads 
 the stranger to this spot is not the acquisition of wealth, nor 
 is it the debates of a legisla(ive assembly that draws him 
 thither ; but the attractions that allure him are a combination 
 of man,v of the most astonishing features of nature, the rich 
 painted landscape, whose outline was traced bytheHAlVD 
 by whom the world was framed, and whose strong con- 
 
 fliough the curiosity of some surmounted the dread of danger, 
 few were hardy enoug;li to adventure. 
 
 "Abridge was built last fall, by the hon. judge Porter, and 
 saiigiuMc Uopes were entertained that it would have witlistood the 
 torrent; but an unusual collection of ice in the spring occasioned 
 it to he carried away. The perseverance of that enterprizing 
 gentleman, however, was not to be discouraged, and a new bridge 
 has been constructed in a more favorable position, which bids 
 fail- to brave the dangers which proved fatal to the tirst. 
 
 " The highest praise is due to Messrs. Pierce & Whitney, the 
 contractors, and to Mr. Osborn. the builder, for the judicious lo- 
 cation of the building, and its remarkable construction. By 
 means of this structure, which few would have designed or exe- 
 cuted. Goat island has become the most interesting spot that fan- 
 cy can depict ; as it aifords the best and most varied views of 
 that .stupendous cataract which " enchants the world." 
 
 " The view from Table Rock, on the British side, has hitherto 
 been much admired; but that si)ectacle is infinitely surpassed by 
 the grandeur of the views fiom several points of the island, which 
 exhibit the majestic fall, and the surrounding scenery in unrival- 
 led splendor. From the same point the rye embraces tlie rapids 
 above, dashing with impetuous fiity as if madly hastening to pre- 
 cipitate themselves into the yawning gulf; the tremendous volume 
 of water sends its spray to the heavens, and the winding of the 
 foaming torrent below the precipice ; no imagination can con- 
 ceive, no language can describe '.;:e wi'dness and sublimity of the 
 scene." — A'iagard Patriot. 
 
ICS 
 
 qUEEJfSTOJf. 
 
 [LV.T. XIII 
 
 four has and wlU entlure (iu'otigii (ho cliangcs of countless 
 cenUii'ies. 
 
 Ju!j 30th, 1 left Mr. Forsyth's and traced the shores of 
 ths^ s!r;t!t to Quecnsfon, a liislaneo seven miles along a road, 
 over a rolling but not hilly coiiniry. From the heights 
 above Quecnston, a prospoel oijcns only second to (hat of Ihc 
 fiiUs, though of a character totally different. The wide 
 sweep of the aihivial plain of lake Ontai'io lies benealh, 
 chcfjf.ered with meadows and farms ; (he deep and rapid 
 strait issiii;ig in i!s dark profound from (he shelving roeks 
 above, t!ie two (owns of Qweenston as>d Lewiston ; and far 
 on the back ground t!ic ocean-like expanse of lake On- 
 tai'io, closes the perspective. 
 
 It is when standing upon the brow of these heights, tliat, 
 the fact becomes denionstralivc (iiat here once dashed Nia- 
 gara, niingiiog his foaming surge wi(h (lie wave of Ontario. 
 The rocky bed has yielded to (he ever rolling waievs, and 
 (he cataract has retired to (he deep and disi:in( del! where it 
 now repeats (he (hundcrs of ages, and eoniinnes i(s slow 
 but certain march to Erie. Time was when Niagara did 
 nut exist, and time vviii come when it will cease to be ! But 
 to these niisisty revolu(ions, the change of empire is as (lie 
 bursting bubble on (he i ippling pool, (o the overwhelming 
 volume that rolls down (he s(cep of Niagara i(se!f. Since 
 (his cataract fell where Queenston now stands, have risen 
 and fallen Assyria, and Persia ; Macedonia, and Rome; (ho 
 flood of noriliern barbar'ians issued for(h from (heir na(ivc 
 woods, and in the storm of savage fury profaned (lie tombs 
 of (he Fabii, and the Seipio's, and in (he march of time (he 
 polished sons of those mail clad warriors, now seek with re- 
 ligions veneration (iic fragments of (he statues that their 
 fathers broke; and whilst (his mora! stream was flowing 
 through t!ie wide expanse of ages, has the Niagara continu- 
 ed its uHceasiiig course. Housed from the sleep of a thous- 
 and iji'ara, (Sie energies of iha human mind sought another 
 world, and fuiiml Amcriea ; and amid (his new creation 
 
3.ET. XISI.] 
 
 XATB WAS. 
 
 found Niagara. Durisig the ohsingc of nalions, reiigion and 
 language, tlii* vast, ihisfeaffui tataruct uaceabingly pui'siicd 
 aiici pursues its slow and toilsome wiiv, 
 
 But in soborn-ess, no man ever did oi* ever cua trasa 
 Uiis gfound, wi<hout the intoxicalion «f cnthiishtsiii. I re- 
 <!-iieed my way back to Euffaio, passing along the Canada 
 shore sts far as the ferry b«!ow Fort J2rle. 
 
 I'licre is, however, no scene wbich the traveller visits, that 
 so litlie answers his expectatiosts as that of a field of battie. 
 In the splendid aecnuals of fine positions ciiosen, defended, 
 or lost, the ifMJveiiients of isriiiies, the siioek of buftalions, 
 iind the victory acquired, or defeat sustained by celcbraied 
 generals, wc are apt to consider the ground upon which these 
 events transpired, as cifersng soineihiug of deep interest on 
 review ; but when seen this iihision vanishes, and tise eye 
 finds nothiiij; beyond the common objects in nature to reader 
 eonspici'iOua the scene of tiie greatest battles. 
 
 The last war between the United Sfutes and Great Brt- 
 lain, has been rendered forever reuiarkablc by sonic of (hose 
 evtnts wiiich eoiiiiiiue land-aiarks iji history, 'i'he vietories 
 of our infkint tiavy gained ugahtst the levialjian of (he deep, 
 the burning of Wasiiington, and the desti-uetive defeat of a 
 veteran army of 10,000 tnen at New Orleans by less (hau 
 half their number of militia, are facts iisiperishabie as the, 
 literature of the world. But in no part of iiic vast tlsealre 
 of this memorable war, were the operations of (he i-espec- 
 live armies so sanguinary as oa the Niagara river. Perltaps 
 to the nutuber of men engaged, no battles were ever more 
 obstinately contended, or victory mors dearly bou£!h!, than 
 were those of Queenston, October 8th. 18M-, in wiiieii gen. 
 Brock was killed j that of Chippewa, July 5!h, ISli, and 
 tii»t of Bridgwater, July assh, ISii. The latter was indeed 
 one of those desperate conliiets, where the ofiicers and sol- 
 diers of both armies, seemed to have lost the feeling of eve- 
 ry other sentiment except that of victory. Gens. Brown 
 and Ssott were woHndcd, and Gen, ilea!, sf the British army, 
 
1/0 
 
 XATE AVAK. 
 
 [let. Xllli 
 
 <aken prisoner, 'i fje following i'aeis from Gen. Brown's 
 re(!i! ii of (Ills engagement, iirc amongst llie most siiigulai' 
 in iuiisian lastoi'y : on Ihc Anict ieai! side t!io 
 
 «' Keturn of killed, woKiidcd and missing, in tiio above 
 ",Ketio!! — killed, 171 — Mounded, 670 — missing, 117 — total, 
 " 858." 
 
 " T!ie British oilicinl aecoiint of (be above action, makes 
 " theii' loss i\s follows, viz: — killed. Si- — wounded, 559-« 
 " missing, 193 — piisoaeis, -i2 — tofri!,878." 
 
 Fcufs letters, page 22i.. 
 
 If to these bloody batdes are superadded the not less ru- 
 inous and dostruetivc operations at fort Niagara, fort Ei'ie, 
 and at Bufi'alo, cvei'y spot of (his stiait have now become 
 classic ground, and the (ravellei- for ages will seek (he he- 
 ro's grave. As I passed these fields, I could not but con- 
 trast the storm that once raged upon their surface with the 
 deep aiul solemn calm that reigned around nse. Fields once 
 covered with the dead and djiiig soldier, now smiled ia gold- 
 en liai'vest. 
 
 Upon the rising ground near Forsjtj»'s, I stopped to take 
 :i parting view of Niagara, gazed a few moments upon its 
 ever pleasing features, hurried on, passed the fields of 
 Chippewa, and about noon of the 31st Augiist, found myself 
 again in Oiiffalo. 
 
 'i"he following are the stages and distances, on the Cana- 
 da side, from fort George to Euffalo. 
 
 Miles, 
 
 Fort Gcoi-ge to QiU'ciwton, - - - 7 
 
 Slamford at the Falls, - ■-- ^ - 7—14 
 
 Cliippewa, - - - - 3 — i7 
 
 Talmer's, - - - - - 0—26 
 
 Ferry below fort Erie, - - - G-i32 
 
 Black Rock, - - - - ±—AC, 
 
 BiiOalo, - - - - - . 2— 
 
 Detained by contrary winds in Br.ffalo (o the evening of 
 the 2d of Aiigiist, 1 had a good oppoi tiinity of examining (he 
 
IKT. XIII.] BUFFALO. 171 
 
 place. It does not appear to Die ih&t the value of (hat siiis- 
 ation has been (iu!y appreciated by our goveruincnt. Many 
 reasons concui' to cnlum! the iieeessity of rendering tlio 
 harbor of BuHTalo capable of eontaining vessels of any size. 
 Such an undertaking is by no means visionary. At less tiiaii 
 a mile from the moiul! of the ereek, there is suilieient water 
 to admit a first rate ship of the line. If a strong nioie was 
 constructed running out from above the iight-liousc into the 
 lake, a safe shelter for vessels would be formed. In a na- 
 val point of view, such a work would be invaluable, atui 
 contribute not a little to secure to the United States the safe- 
 ty and superiority of their flag on Jake Erie, and to prevent 
 the repetition of the desolating inroads of an enemy in tiir.e 
 of war.* 
 
 , . . Adieu. 
 * 
 
 * Some facts relative to the operations of Commodore Perry 
 and his fleet in last war, will be found mentioned in the sequel of 
 this work, which will more strongly point out the necessily ot 
 some more secure naval slaiioii, than any that now exists on the 
 north-east extremity of lake Erie. The following account of 
 the effects of the winds on that lake lias l)een published at the 
 moment of preparing tliis sheet for the press ; I iiave given it 
 entire, as a specimen of the tremendous gales that sweep over 
 those inland seas ; gales that are appalling indeed, where no ha- 
 ven presents ils shelter to the wretelied mariner. 
 
 " Gale on lake Erie. — h\ addition to the loss of the Hereulcfj 
 heretofore stated, we gather from the Cleveland Register, of Kov- 
 24, which came to hand this morning, the following particulars of 
 fatal disasters : 
 
 " The schooner Independence, of Sandusky, John Brooks mas- 
 ter and owner, John Chambers seanian, cleared from the mouth 
 of Black river, on Saturday the I4th inst, for Detroit, loaded with 
 corn, for John S. Reid, esq. who sent his son Cornelius Keid to 
 assist capt. Brooks, and dispose of the coi'n. Th.e vessel was cap- 
 sized in, a gale — the cai-go lost, and every soul on hoard drowned— 
 the wreck drifted on shore near the mouth of Black river. A 
 wreck of a vessel, bottom upwards, seen off the mouth of Grand 
 river. Schooner Pauline, was driven on shore near the mouth of 
 Grand river and bilged — her crew saved, but her cargo, consisting 
 of salt, lost. Schooner Boxer, lying in the mouth of Grand river, 
 dismasted, bilged^ and a complete wreck — crew siivcd. Schooney 
 
1/2 
 
 nisraoiT. 
 
 [let. xit. 
 
 LETTEll XIV. 
 
 JJelroit, August 13, 1818. 
 
 Dear Sik, 
 
 On (he evening of the 2<i inst. I left Biiffalo for this city, 
 in the schooner Zephjr, capf. Wilcox, and had a tedious jins- 
 sagc of eleven days, but at length found myself agreeably 
 rid of the vessel, and on shore to-day. Since it is over, I do 
 not regret having encountered contrary winds in my passage* 
 as the cireumslauce enabled me to visit i«ost of the towns 
 along the soudi border of lake Erie. 
 
 A gaic eoniirienced to blow uitk great violence from the 
 K. W. soon after we left Buffalo creek, and continued (o rage 
 all night. The darkness of tlie night, aod the nai-rowness 
 of the mouth of the harbor we left, prevented our return ; 
 the course of the wind kept us from sheltering under point 
 Abino, on the Canada shore, and of course left us to the 
 merey of the storm and waves. I have the misfortune to 
 be very subject to sea sickness, and never did I pass so dread* 
 fu! a night. The short chopping waves of lake Erie give 
 a vcssc!, during the prevalence of a gale, an unspeakable 
 disagi jenble motion ; the nature of its shoros renders it 
 amongst the mast dangerous parts of the earth to navigate. 
 
 Wasp dismasted, and driven on shore at tlie irioiith of Cii'nniiig- 
 lif.iii's creek, biiged — her crew saved, but cargo lost. Schooner 
 ,i.;c?ii(ral Brown was driven on' shore near the n)Outh oi' Black 
 live)-, (111 Wednesday the 18th iiisl. — her crew all safe, but llie 
 \cfS('l (I'-nsidcrably damaged. Schooner genera! Jackson Icl't 
 (irecn i:;iy lor Mackinaw, .some time since, and h?,% not sirice been 
 l.crird (il— fears are eiitcrtiiiiied foi' licr safety. Uritish brig lord 
 AVellingloii, of Canada, was driven on sfcore at poiiit A];ii;o, 
 and vicnt to pieces — ci'cw saved, iuit caigo lost.'' 
 
I,ET. XIV.J 
 
 BUNKIUK. 
 
 irs 
 
 A fine ster.in-boat is now building at Blafk Rock, ami will 
 be iiii invaluable acquisif ion wberj put in niotion.* 
 
 Wo made Dunkirk barbor in (be evening of tbc iih, wbere 
 we remained wind bound uaiil noon (jf (he 7(h» It is h cu- 
 i-ioi!S fact, that in a distance of 45 miles iVnni Buifulo (o 
 Dunkirk, tbere is no p!ace wberc the smsillest vessel can 
 jiiiil slieiter, except tbc jjiouth of Catiicaiigiis creek, v.Jiicli 
 aifords but little waier, eonsequenllj useless lor vessels 
 drawing more tban four or five feet. Dunkirk is in Cisatau- 
 que county, townshij) of Pomfret. Tbo allnvial bank of 
 lake Erie is at tbis place about four miles wide, from the in- 
 ner border of whieii, rise tbe bills wbicb divide (be waters 
 flowing into the Ohio valley, from tbose wbicb fall into lake 
 Erie. Tbis ridge becomes visible from tbe lake immediately 
 after leaving Buffalo, tbough from tbat place tbcy are dis- 
 tant betvieen twenty and tbir(y miles in a direct course. 
 Following nearly an east and west direction tbrougb Gcilcsee, 
 Cataraugus, and Chafauque counties, tbe dividing ridge ap- 
 proaches lake Erie obliquely, and at Portland eigbtcca miles 
 
 * This boat is called Walk in the Water, an aukward term giv- 
 en in compliment to an Indian chief lately dead ; slve left Buffalo 
 on Jier first trip about the 17th or 18th insf. The following ex- 
 tract from the Buffalo Gazette, shews the result. Tiie eh-cum- 
 stance I have mcntior.ed of the prevalence of S. W. winds, ren- 
 ders steam navigation invaluable on tiie St. Lawrence, thougli 
 Walk in the Water is too large, to answer all the pui'poses to 
 whicii, from the shallowness of most of the liarbors in lake Erie, 
 she might be applied, if her drauglit was less. 
 
 " The steam-boat JFalk in the Water has returned to Buffalo 
 from her first ti-ip, and is found on trial, to equal the best expec- 
 tations of her builders and proprietors. She reached Detroit, a 
 distance of nioi-e than 300 miles, in 45 hours, and afterwards 
 proceeded to lake St. t^iair, and brought down a number of troops. 
 iMay she prove as j)rofitable to the enterprising proprietors, as 
 she is likely to prove beneficial to tbe public at large. 
 
 Thus there is now established, on the St. Lawrence and its 
 waters, steam-boat aecoramodations for about 800 miles; and the 
 distance of these facilities to travel, will probably be doubled in 
 a very few years, by the introduction of these boais upon lakes 
 Huron, MicbigaUj Superior, &c." 
 
 N 2 
 
174. 
 
 BUXKIRK. 
 
 [let. XIV 
 
 sou!ii-wi'st fi'om Dunkii k, rcythes within less tlian tlsrce 
 liiilos o!" iiic uiai'gin of (he lukc. TUq. liiUs seen I'lom (he 
 lake iijipeai' io I'ise tiiueh nsoic ahi'U[)t than (hey do in fafit. 
 Their s5op« towus'ils tlie Isikf, jsrcsciifs v.n imuiensc furest 
 chequered with comp-.irtitiveiy few i'aniss. 
 
 Dunkirk is a nevi' viihige csi (he sisorc of lalie Erie. A 
 scjK!C'irei!?ar brtv lies in iVoiit of the viliagc, formed hy two 
 capes, (lifitHn! from eaeli other ahoiil a ir.ile and !i hi>!fj witli 
 •a i)iir exlendiiiw from esijic toe:vpe. over whieh there is seven 
 ieet, water. Vessels eajiishle of passing tiic iiar, find good 
 slsclser fiOin er.st soniii-eiisf, south, or sotith-west wiritls, and 
 the ijisr breaking (ho waves, (he Jiarbor -affords a refuse iilso 
 from the winds blowing friim the lake. Tiic h.otfoni of tlic 
 bay siffijrds good aneiior;ige wilhiii two liiitidred yards of (h.c 
 shore. Dunkirk is -invaluable gs ofTerinj; ihv oniy port be- 
 t\veon Btilfalo and Erie. A niufiber of grndemeii in Aihany 
 are (i^c pri.K-ipai proprietors of tliis vina_a;e and its vicinity : 
 they have espeiided < oii^iderahle siinis in (lie erection of ;i 
 -ivharf, a i-oati to P'redonia, and other inipi'OveDienls. The 
 site is a dead kivel, -iViiici! ex(e!ids hack towards flie hills 
 two or (liree miles, before any eonsidcrahle eniiiicnees dis- 
 turb tiie nicnotoiiy of its siiriiste. The soil is coiaposed of 
 sand and a rich loam, forming an alluvion of great fertility. 
 TimUfr, iiendoek, Aai-ions spceies of oak, chn, iindini, pop- 
 lar, (iirodenciion tiilipil'era) siigar inaple, and brecb. The 
 trees of all kinds are rontsii kuble for their extraordinary 
 size. 
 
 'I'he day after iny ai'rival at Dunkirk I walked out to Fre- 
 donia. forincr'y Caisadaway, four tjiiies. Canadaway creek 
 j-ises ii: the dividing ridr^-e, isitei loekiiig wiih tlu- sources of 
 (!>•; (Jonncwango hr;\neh of the A!!egan_y river, and flowing 
 liortli-vei! towards liike Krle, tumbling fioiii precipice to 
 prccip.ice until it reaciics liie alhivia! borilcr of lake Erie, 
 ■tvhic-h if joisis two niilcs ahove Unnkirk buy. FrTdonia is 
 biiiU iipc'.i each hanl; of (his creek, is :i new and ilourishing 
 •vsilage. l ive road iVom IkifK'.io to Et ie passes tliror.gh and 
 
JLBT. SIV.j 
 
 BDNKIRE. 
 
 175 
 
 divides at Fi-edonia, info v.hat is ciillut! Ihe lower f>v Icska 
 voad, and {he iippw- or Cliatauquc road. These roiuirf do 
 not again unile iiiiSil within the pretiiu^ts of (ho town of 
 Erie. The setiicincnls foHow generally (licse roads, par- 
 ticularly the former or luke roufe. 
 
 I should have been inueh rejoiued (o fiave been able to de- 
 termine the elevation of the dividing ridge above the surt'aee 
 of lake Erie, but eoukl not have that satisfaetion, fi'oin want 
 of insU-unieuts and (line. Independent of their apparent 
 lieight, two eireunistanees corabiiic to prove that (hev eansiot 
 fa!! much short of 1200 feet. First, tiie distanee lo wliieli 
 Ihcv are visible is at least forty miles. Any object capable 
 of being seen upon the curve of the eartfi's suffaee forty 
 miles, must be within a triilc of ItOO feet high. The second 
 datum to demonstrate (he considerable elevation of these 
 hiiis, is, (hat from. them flow water, wliieiV enters the gulf of 
 Mexico ujnvards of twelve degrees of latitude distant from its 
 source. Tise surface of lake Eric is known to iio SOi.o feet 
 above the ocean lides, and allowing tiK; dividing ridge an el- 
 evation of itOO feet, would produce 106i.5 feet as the entire 
 Iieight of this ridge above (lie Atlantic ocean. Sloping very 
 gradually towards the south, a rapid depression of, as we 
 liavc seen, 1100 feet takes place on (ho side of lake Eric. 
 The extreme bead waters of Cliatauquc lake, rises in (bo 
 township of Poi-tiand, wisliin less than three miles of Jake 
 Erie, and is the point of nearest approach of the Mississippi 
 waters, (o the margin of any of the Canadian lakes. 
 
 Canals have been projected to unite (lie Ohio and St. Law- 
 rence waters, many points have been mentioned, and amongst 
 others by Chatauque lake. You will perceive the obstacles 
 that nature lias opposed to the completion of wich a project, 
 by the enornious difference of level, and (he very sudden de- 
 pression. It is a subject to me of some surprize, (hat the 
 Eric chain of hills is, even by many persons of good infor- 
 mation, considered as rising biit very little above the surface 
 sf lake Erie , but no sooner is tito real elevation of Erie 
 
[let. XIV. 
 
 known< than ihe conviction ntiiat be irresisliliJp, (Iiat a very sc- 
 riotis i jse niiias i;c neccssiwy ffoni (hat lake, to Bdiriif a riiiTcnt 
 cf'sijcli prodigioiis kT)g(h hs (hat of tlse AUfgHny, Ohio, ar,il 
 Siississippi rivers. IT indeed lake Eric was nearly as much 
 elevated as (he soiucp of Allegany river, then Ti'Oiild tlic fall 
 of water in the Kiifgftra SJrait and St. Lawrence river, be as 
 great in less than SOO nsilcs, as that of the Mississippi and 
 I - friiittlaries in six times that distance ,• the certain eonse- 
 <ju nee woukl be that either the ftslf of Niagara vvoisid be 
 8(10 or SOO feet, or tSsa! (he St. La>vrcn<;e, from its great 
 rapUliiy. would be unnBvigable. 
 
 M'iih good roads, and » thrivitsg intsi'ioi-, Dunkirk must 
 advance in a ratio \vj(h (he neighboring country, being the 
 oriJj port, no rivai can be raised to clicck its progress nearer 
 than forlj'-lUe nsjlcH. Should l)>«5 current of eoimnerce turn, 
 towards the eitj lif N^ns-Ycrk, tlifn iveidd Jlnrikirk become, 
 tise shipping port to a st'inieiTcIe of at least thirty jtsiles radi- 
 us. At jiicsesii Site viih'ge consists of about 20 bonscs 
 Eew Sy, biiiit, 'ilie jr-ropriclors are eirsployed in forming a. 
 roa£'.. to join both above iUid be!ow the vilhjge vith that of 
 the iiske nisirgsn. 
 
 Aug. 6!b, in the evening I left I>unki(-k. and, as in leaving 
 Bufia!o, cfieosiniered another gale, biit as it came froRi the 
 r.orih-casi, it carried iss rapidly forward. 'J'he gale set in 
 about (hrce liossrs before day, and bore our vessel abont Mi 
 i!:!ies from Dinikirk by morning ; as the sun arose the wind 
 abated, and at 8 o'clock P. M. we passed (he town of Erie, 
 into the harbor of v»hieh v e did not enter. Much of the 
 shore between Disnkirk and Erie, is composed of shehes of 
 rocks, twenty or ."0 feet high, and extremely dangerous to 
 \e8selfi, as no jikce of refngc exists even for boats. The di- 
 vid;t g : ;dgc is visible from the lake, following a similar di- 
 rection \i its si\ores. Above the town of Erie the slliiviftl 
 border bcconi«^s wider, and the slope of the dividing ridge 
 !« sg £i>3>Hp*> sst^d gradjislly retiring into the state of Ohio, 
 sibout twenty Kiiles above Erie it ceases to fce in \iew frons 
 
SKAND HIVEB. 
 
 the lake. Stiltlemesits become more rare ; the border of 
 Ihc l«ke presetils one vast forest. Thirty niiJes froiii liie 
 town of Erse and Bear the mouth of Connewtight creek, is 
 the tlitision line between the slates of Pennsylvania and Ohio. 
 We passed (his pJacc, and also the inouth of Ashtabula river 
 in the night, and at noon of the Sih, we also passed tho 
 uioulh of Grand riren At 1 o'clock P. M. we were he- 
 calmed which conJinxied two or three hours, ivnd was follow- 
 ed by a strong head wind, wliieh forced ns back into the 
 mouth of Grand river. The dividing ridgo is visible from 
 (he lake opposite this place. 
 
 Grand river is a sUeam of some conscfjUcncc rising in 
 Portage coiiniy, ficvs over the norlh-west angle of Truni- 
 buii county, assumes a n</rih course, enters Ashtabula county, 
 through which it winds five and twenty ifsiles, turns suddenly 
 westward, enters Geauga county, through whieh it iSows 
 upwards of t«enjy niiles, fails into lake Erie in the latlei" 
 county, after an entire course of niore than seveEty niiles. 
 It is about seventy yards wide at the mouth, with seven feet 
 water on the bar near tho entrance into the lake. The east 
 bank rises to the lieight of 30 or LO feet, affording a very 
 iiandsome site for a village. Th« harbor is cxeelient for 
 such vessels whose whole draft of wafer will admit entrance. 
 A village called Fairpoit, has been laid out on the fo'mt 
 below or east of (he mcuth of the river. Some houses are 
 built, two taver ns and three stores have been esfab.'islied, 
 with a warehouse at the bank of (he river. Preparations 
 sre making to form wharves, cstc ridiiig beycind the bar itj 
 such manner as to alTord a harbor to vessels of any draft. 
 If such a work is completed Fairport will be amongst the 
 jriosl ilourishitig villages on the south shore of Ir.k* Erie. 
 
 The soil is hero on the high banks tomposcd of saad, peb- 
 ble, an{i| vegetable earth, and no doubt very productive, though 
 of that I Irad no other means of forming a judgment tiian 
 by the natural growth, as no cleared lands are yet (o be seen 
 Hear the vilLige. 
 
178. 
 
 CT-KVELASD. 
 
 [JLKT. XIV. 
 
 Three miles fro'.n F;iirport, upon ihe lef! bank of Grand 
 river, slflnds the vovj fioui'ishing village of Paincsvilie, (he 
 riches! and iMist eomiiicrtiiiil in lite counlj, tionUiiniiig a niiiii- 
 bvv of stores, iaverns, niilif. and oC:; • inaiihiuei-y : a post- 
 oSiee, and a line wooden hrid.^e over (Inuid river. The soil 
 of this nejgh!)oriiooti is a rich vegetubie mouid, resting upon 
 rounded pebble or clay. The isiui in faet of ail the Con- 
 sjeeticut reserve is ferlih^, with but partial exceptions, Tlie 
 timber, hickory, sugar maple, biaek wahiut. elm, oak, and 
 other trees iridiealive of deep, strong soil. Tiiough but lit- 
 tle e«liiva(!on appears along the lake shore, the inferior is 
 rapidly advancing in seltleiiicnt. Fairport has ail the ap- 
 pearance of a cojsimereial place ; in infancy it must be con- 
 fessed, bat yet with such marks as will justify (he anticipa- 
 tion of vigorous maturity. 
 
 Aug. Cfli, I left Fairpor! cai-ly in the morning, with a light 
 breeze from the N. E. and at 2 .o'clock P. M. reaciicd 
 Cleveland, at the mouth of Cayahoga river. 
 
 Cleveland, like Fairport, occupies the eastern point be- 
 tween the lake and river, and is, after Biifialo and Erie, the 
 largest town upon ti;e shores of lake Erie. Similar to all 
 rivers that flow into any of the Cunadian lakes, a bar cros- 
 ses its mouth with a depth of 7 feet. C'ayahoga river rises 
 in Geauga and Porlage iby a number of creeks, which unite 
 at the north-west angle of the latter county, then enters that 
 of Cayahoga, and falls into lake Erie at Cleveland. A road 
 winding up a very high and sleep bank leads from tiie harbor 
 to the (o-.vn, which stands upon the table land. The situa- 
 tion of Cleveland is the most pleasing of any town I have 
 yet seen on lake Erie. The genei iil slope of the ground plan 
 of the town inclines towaids tiic lake, though elevated per- 
 haps 60 feet above its surface. Cleveland stands higher 
 than Fairport, hut bolh are sabjeel to the serious objection 
 of having banks abrupt and diiBcult to ascend fi-om the 
 margin of the ^va(er in the harboi-. 'I'hat of Cleveland pro- 
 t!Kces, from, its inelination towards the lake, a very pleasaat 
 
lET. XIV.] 
 
 eiEVEXAXD. 
 
 179 
 
 and extensive prospcef, which adds no little (o tiic aii v ubA 
 lieaitlij a",»ifearance of tiie to-.vn aiul its viiiiiiiy. The soil 
 of the neighborhood is extri-inelj ferliie, comjsosed as every 
 where else on lake Ei'ie, of sand, elaj, and rounded pebble, 
 in different degi'ecs of lisixttire. For the first fiine in the 
 St. Lawrence valley, I saw the peach tree \vith a vigorous, 
 healthy ioo!:, in the gardens and orchards near Cleveland ; 
 and here also appears more efTects of culture, than in any 
 part of the lake shore from Burujio. 
 
 Cleveland is the seat of justice for Cayahoga county, with 
 a court-house, hank, printing office, a innnber of stores and 
 taverns, and a post-office. It is a position of considerable 
 consequenec, lying in a direct line of comitmnieution between 
 Pittsburg and Detroit, 131 miles from the farmer city. Du- 
 ring last war, the mouth of Cayalioga was found to be a 
 point of great convenience for the transportation of stores, 
 provisions, and building of small vessels for the use of llio 
 arHiy anil navy. Why largo vessels could not be as well con- 
 structed here as at Erie, 1 i\ia unuble to comprehend ; tiio 
 water upon the respective bars is equal, whilst the harbor of 
 Erie, iVora its openness, would be certainly less defensible 
 than (hat of Cleveland ; and the comnuinieiilioa between 
 MieJiigan Territory, and the inferior of Ohio, Pennsvlvania, 
 Kentucky, and Virginia, more direct by t!ie latter than l!ie 
 former port. 
 
 We left Cleveland in the evening of the 8(h, witii a good 
 north east breeze ; we proceeded up the lake with so inucii 
 rapidity as to be obliged to lie to, in order !o have ('iiT-Hght 
 to enter Sandusky bay. On the morriing of tiso 9(h, our 
 vessel was iiuder way at sun-i isc ; Cunningiiani's island and 
 point Pcninsiiia in view to the west ; the main shore of Hu- 
 ron county, in the stale of Oiiio, to (he scuth. and Pohst-au- 
 Ple, in Canada, to tiie north ; the hilis towards the sources 
 of Huron river to the soutii-ertst ; but in every oilier direc- 
 tion, the adjacent shores and islands see!i;cd level, and to 
 vise to no great elevation above tlse water. 
 
SARDrSIlTi 
 
 [let. XIV. 
 
 EehTcen sscTcrj eight A. M. I ciitcrrd Sandusky bay. 
 Tiiis shce! of wafer is formed by (iio expiiiision of Sandusky 
 i iver, and a !ong, narrow s(ri[> of land, wh'wh runs from lie- 
 tween (he nioudi of (!iat siream and Porfagc river. The 
 strip forms the outside of (he hay (owards tlie lake, and has 
 received the «anie of point I'euirisuSa, forms a part of Hu- 
 ron county, and iias been crec(ed in(o (he township of Dan- 
 bury ; it is about (wcnfy niik-s long, and from two to three 
 Jnik's wide. From the caslern ex(reiiiity of the peninsula, 
 extends alow, narrow point about two mites long, approach- 
 ing within a tnile of a similar low, long, narrow !)ar project- 
 ing from the main shore. The space between these bars 
 is the entrance into Sandusky bay. The point of the penin- 
 sula i« called point Prospect, (he one opposite point Sandy. 
 A small round island lies inside of point Prospect, called Bull 
 island. The points are eovered wiih dwarf trees, and are, 
 though on a larger scale, in every other respect similar to 
 those which form Scdns hay in lake Ontario, 
 
 H'he entrance lies close upon point Sandy, and like almost 
 a!! harbors in lake Erie, has seven feet w ater at the shallow- 
 est p»rt. Our sliip passed Bull island lo the westward and 
 proceeded to the custom house, which is now on the peninsu- 
 la, and kept by a Frenchman of the name of Peter P. Ferry. 
 ^Yliilst our captain was regulaiing his affairs wilh (he c,us- 
 tom house Ouiccr, I walked f«r(h (o examine the adjacent 
 coun'sy. I found the surfut-e rising from the bay by gradu- 
 al acclivity, (o at Irast 30 feet elevation. Soil a deep black 
 loam, uiSiisixed wilh sand and pebble timber, black walnut, 
 shag-bark liickory. whiie oak, elm, linden, ash, and syca- 
 more, wilh a shrubbery of alder, sumach, and grape vine. 
 On no land of whatever qunlily did I ever before sec so much 
 Idaek walnut on a givsn s]>ace. This tree, whose cxistencn 
 is an unerring proof of uneonimon fertility, is here the pre* 
 valent timber, and is found of enormous size and height. 
 
 Most part of the peninsula is yet unsettled though some 
 farms are commenced, and it is needless to say, after what 
 
'l,BT. XIV.] 
 
 S AS BUSK Y. 
 
 181 
 
 I iiavo ah-eadj stafe.d of the soil, that the es'ops lire very 
 ps'Oiuising, pai'tieuiaHy maize or Indian corn. The proper- 
 ty of soil to the lands of (hs iMinisisHks, bulongs to tSiose who 
 enjoy tin*, beneiits of ■what is called the fire Innds. Tlve na- 
 ture of that tenure you know arose from a ri'miineralive 
 grant tiiasJe l>y the govenMiu'iH of (he United Sf-aies, to sonic 
 sufferers fay iirisish depredaiion, during the war of the 
 revoluiion, sisch as the inhabitants of Fairiield, Nos'Wtslk, 
 and some other plaees. Like most pufelie flonations for the 
 moderate benefit of the many, the fire grant has made the 
 fortunes of a few ; the {H-operty has been, perhaps, foolishly 
 undervalued, by most of (hose for wliose use it was origi- 
 nally separated i's-om the public doiisain. 
 
 The town of Biiabury or the peninsula of Sandusky, con- 
 tains at least 40 sections, or about 2,i,6C0 fscres, sufficient 
 for more tiiiui one hundred jiioderale farms. 1 he laud is 
 generally level, some prairie,* the forest land extremely 
 well timbei'ed j it will no doubt beeome the seat of a flour- 
 ishiiig settlement. 
 
 I crossed the bay from the peninsula to the town of San- 
 dusky or Portland, as it seenis the viiiage bears both naitses. 
 The bay is here about four niiies wide, whieh breadth it 
 maintains almost to its liead, execpt at tiie narrows about 
 live miles above tiie vinago of Sandusky. The shores arts 
 every where but iittle raised above the water, in some pla- 
 ces flat and marshy, suit exuberantly fertile. 
 
 It is curious to see in the heart of the continent of North. 
 America, a country so perfeeiiy aihivial, us that w hich en- 
 circles the south-west and west part of lake Erie. Est-cpt 
 the hill behind the ciistosn house on the periinsithr, every oth- 
 er object in Sandusky bay reminded me strongly of some 
 parts of lower Louisiana, and indeed few places can be moro 
 similar though so distant, and so differently situated respect- 
 
 * Prairie, this word is from the Frcucli. ani. signijics iiter illy 
 ■meadow. 
 
SASIJUSKY. 
 
 [i,ET. ::iv. 
 
 ing the oeean. All llie livers which flow into lakeEi'ie are 
 jrilersected by ledges of rock, at a greater or less distance 
 iVotii the margin of the lake. I have alreadj noticed the al- 
 luvial border skirti^ig iVoai Buffalo, along the south-east side 
 of the lake, wisii more or less breadth ; thoiigli in some places 
 very narrow, ns between Dunkirk and Erie. This alluvial 
 border is eorJiniious, in no place entirely interrupted, and 
 nest of Cuyahoga river spreads to the width of from live 
 to ten nsiles. 'I'hc ridge of hills which separate the waters 
 of Ohio river from those of lake Erie, and (o whose phe- 
 nomena I have drawn yonr attention, enters the state of Ohio 
 near the dividing line of Aslituhula and Trumbull counties ; 
 pursuing a soiUh-west direction it intersects Trumbull and 
 Portage diagonally, giving rise ni) its south-east slope to 
 Beaver river of Ohio, and from its north- west inclination 
 flow Grand and Cayahoga livers. From tlie south-west an- 
 gle of Truinbull county, the dividing ridge assumes a west 
 dircctioK, which it pursues along the northern border cf 
 Stark, and Wayne, and more tiian half of that of llichland 
 eonnty. From this latter part of tiie ridge, flow to the 
 soulii the head waters of Muskingum, and to the north, part 
 of that of Cayahoga, and the sources of Rocky, Black, 
 Beaver of lake Erie, Vermillion, and Huron rivers. In 
 Richland county the ridge turns south-west, which course it 
 maintains through the remainder of the state of Ohio ; dis- 
 charging southwardly the waters of Scioto and Miami, and 
 northwardly those of Sandusky and Maumee rivers. This 
 ridge docs not every where appear in the actual form of hills, 
 with intervening vales, but spreads into an extensive table 
 hind. It is, however, every where a distinctive land-mark, 
 and forms an important geological feature in the physiogno- 
 my of our country. It appears to rest upon, and to be ia 
 great part, except the mere surface, composed of micaceous 
 or limestone schist. The rocks forming shelving acclivities, 
 produce the rapids and falls, which are found in ail its rivei's. 
 The !o>Yest visible ledge of (his vast schistose massj borders 
 
XET. XlV.j 
 
 SANDUSKY. 
 
 183 
 
 the great lake Ei'ie alluvial plain, which I have sioiiccil. 
 The plain !ins a!S the H'atuvos of Fecent aliuvion ; the streams 
 are sluggish in tlieir motions, their beds Isaving hut little in- 
 clination ; the land along tiie hanks is the hi.qhes.t part of the 
 g!'oi>!jd ; the iutervening spaces between the rivers ai'e low 
 and mosily swampy ; much of\ the entire smfase is prairie, 
 and covered with an exuberant herbage ; the soil, whore 
 snffieiendy eSevated forciikure, is jsrcductive to excess ; and 
 the inhabitants are subject !o iBtermit'ting fevers, during the 
 latter part of the summer and beginning of the fall season, 
 lliese are the atfributes of recent alluvion, from the fens of 
 Lin<:o!nshirc, and Holland ; from the Poniisje marshes to 
 tlsose of lisc Amazon, Oronoco, Missiisippi, and the shores- 
 of Erie. 
 
 The extcat, and iinhealthfulness of tlie lake Erie alluvion, 
 lias been very greaily overrased. lis greatest positive 
 breadth is at (he mouth of Maunsce, and there it fails short 
 of twenty miles. Following tise curve of lake Erie, from 
 the H!on»h of Huron river, isi Boson county, to Brownstown, 
 in the Michigan Tesritory, is about 100 miles, and allowing 
 (he alluvii.-n ten miles wide, would produce 1000 square 
 miles or 640,000 acres. I am convinced from ail 1 have 
 been able to learn re speeting the eountiy , that the foregoing 
 is too large aa estimate. Swamps and flats exist above the 
 lower faiis in the rivers, but are of a nature essentially dis- 
 tinct fro!!i fhe alluvial plains along the lake siiorc. 
 
 The village of Saufhisky contains only a few new houses. 
 The bank slopes from the water edge a short distance, and 
 tlien becomes an ainmst uniforni level. The depth of soil is 
 not coasiiierable the bank upon wliieh the town is built 
 t-ests upon a bed of schistose sandstone, of excellent quality 
 for boihiing nmi j;;n ing. This schistose base no doubt un- 
 derlays (!*e whole adjacent country, extending under tiic 
 mass of similar rock ovei' which the waters of the various 
 streaais are preciplated in their way from the higher inte- 
 rior region. 
 
18i 
 
 YEXICE. 
 
 [let. XIV. 
 
 I walked from tlie viliiige of Sandusky to tliat of Venice, 
 four and a half niiSe* liighcr up ihc bay. QuiKitig the vil- 
 lage of Saiidssky a very sliort distance, I was more (Iian 
 wcr impressed with the resemUance of the surface of the 
 earth to many places I had sfen on the southern waters of 
 tlie Mississippi. The tinihei- was in great part dift'erent 
 iVom (hat of Louisiana, hut with the exception of sugar ma- 
 ple considerable resemblaac* exists in the forests of the two 
 eouuiries. I found here upon tlie Sandusky plain three or 
 Ibiir species ot' hickory, three or four of oak, intermixed 
 v/'nh ash, elm, linden, sugar maple, and an underwood of 
 aider and suniae. 
 
 I found Venice situated upon the western shore of a muddy 
 oi'cek, upon s hank mueh lower and more disadvanlagfously 
 situated than that upon which stands the village of Sandusky 
 or Portland ; though (he former village is at present much 
 larger than the latter. Hacli have the appearance of tow ns 
 in the first si age of their existence. In January 17B8, I saw 
 the now flourishing Steubenvilic, in the state of Ohio, not 
 more advanced or promising than are now Sandusky and 
 Venice. The great fertility of the lands in tiieir ncighbor- 
 liood, and their situation upon one of the best harbors of 
 lake Erie, are propitious cireumstances in favor ot their fu- 
 ture prosperity. The western line of the Fire lands and of 
 the surveyed par( of (he state of Ohio, crosses Sandusky bay 
 about two miles west of Venice, and continuing north crosses 
 the peninsula and leaves the township of Danbury to the 
 east. 
 
 Monday, August 10th, I left Sandusky bay with a breeze 
 from the west, and after clearing the bar had a ilne view of 
 (he peninsula, Cunningham's island, and the southern Bass 
 island. With a lig!it wind upon our quarter we sailed to the, 
 north-west, between Cunningham's island and the peninsula, 
 tlie channel about three miles Avide. I had a very fair viev>' 
 of the adjaeent shores, and found them composed, as I had 
 formerly lieard them represented, of schistose saadstoae and 
 
S aadiiiij'^ cr I'lVtland 
 
iET. XIV.| P0T-IIT BAT. iS5 
 
 crumbling limestone ; flie latter frequently white as clialk, 
 and appears worn into chasms by the surf of the lake, and 
 rising from one to tea feet above the water. Cunningham's is 
 the easternmost and lai'gest of the lake Erie islands, is about 
 8 miles long by one nsedlal width, or covering perhaps two 
 thousand acres of land. Some setiletnents were formerly 
 made upon this island, but the inhabitants were obliged by 
 the savages to abandon their farms during the last war. 
 
 Passing Cunningham's, the Bass islands caiac in view to 
 tliC N. W. about eight or ten miles distant. Approaching 
 the southern Bass, the first prosisineut object that is now 
 seen, is what is called Edwarti s clearing, or Put-in-bay. 
 The west wind prevented me from visiting this noble harbor^ 
 decidedly the best in all lake Erie, and dear to the American 
 heart, from the events of last war. It was from here, that 
 on the morning of September 10th, iSlS, Commodore Perry 
 led his fleet, to obtain the first naval victory, in squadron^ 
 ever obtained by the Uiiitcd States ; and it was into this 
 bay, that on the evening of the same day, the captured Bri- 
 tish fleet was conveyed by its intrepid conquerors. You have 
 so often read, and so well remember (he detail of this event, 
 that a repetition here would be lost time to us both. 
 
 I passed the eastern mouth of Put-in-bay at the distance 
 of half a mile ; its form and situation are both admirable. 
 The Bass islands form a group of seven, lying about three 
 miles from part of the Sandusky peninsula, and, as I have 
 already observed, seven or eight miles north-west of Cun- 
 ningham's island. Put-in-bay, is foi'med by a curve of the 
 largest and most southern of the Bass groups, having 
 two entrances, one from the east and the other from the west: 
 The bay is very finely land-locked. The second large island 
 of the group, stretching from east to west across the widest 
 part at half a mile distant, ami one of the smaller islands 
 lying opposite each channel. The three main islands do not 
 dilfer much in extent, though that in which is Put-in-bay is 
 the largest. All are tiniBhabited, and covered with a densp 
 
 O 
 
iS6 
 
 I1£N & CIIICKJSKS. 
 
 [liET. XIV. 
 
 forest. 1 had no means to determine their area.wilii eertain- 
 ty, but judg«i! the lUvec main islands to averags about one 
 and a half miles long, anil balf a mile wide, and mav cover 
 from 2,500 to SOOO aens taken coSiectivcly, resting upon a 
 solid mass of sehislosc roek in great part iitiieslone. From 
 here liiiiestone, for the purpose of making lisne, is carried as 
 far as Bttreit and Cleveland. The soil is excellent, and 
 would aiiisiit a liKle setileriiciit of thirty or forty families. 
 But every chject of iiiiliiy to wbicli the Bass islands could 
 be appJied, yields to (lie importance of Put-in-bay. This 
 line haven admits entrance and aiieliorage for vessels of any 
 snpposable di'auglit, safe fioin all winds, ll must become, 
 from i*,s position and depth of water, an ohjee! of great na- 
 tional value. Ko harbor in lake Erie, or in its connecting 
 wafers, except in Erie striiii, can in any respect compare 
 %vi(h it; its oceupati(sn as a naval and comuicreiai- station 
 must one day take place. 
 
 The wind continuing light, we passed the Bass island slow- 
 ly, sailing nordi, and when opposite the north-westernmost 
 of Ihe group, could also dislinetiy see point Pele island 
 on the Canada shore. Clearing the Bass islands, we turned 
 again norilNw est, but were almost becalmed all the afternoon ; 
 •vu', however, passed the group of small islands, enlied the 
 Hen & Chickens, consisting of four, lying in a kind of cres- 
 cciit, five 01' six miles north-west of thenortliern Bass. Wc 
 loft the Hen & Ciiiekens to the north, and in the evening had 
 the Bass islands (o the south-east, the Hen &, Chickens north- 
 east, and the eastern Sister island to the west. We were 
 now upoi) or very near the scene of Ferry's battle ; the eve- 
 ning was serene and beautiful ; our little !>:irk glided smootli- 
 ly and slowly over the waves, w here exactly five years, less one 
 month before, tlse United States' Hag was hoisted overtheBri- 
 tish ensian. 1 do not remember to have ever spent an evening 
 at sea wiih so much pleasure. I literally fell asleep on deck, 
 listening to a sailor repeatedly singing a rude song, com- 
 riiCiuGratiyc of (his event of national glory. I'hc song- 
 
LET. XtV. 
 
 SISTEK ISIiAUDS; 
 
 187 
 
 ster had himself been in the haUle, and seemed io feel a 
 strong emotion of natioiia! enthusiasm in passing (he now 
 pcaeeful scene, where ho saw the humbled piido of the ene- 
 mies of his country. 
 
 There are three isSands extending south-west from tlie 
 Ilcn & Chickens, and stretching towards Maumec bay, they 
 are caiied the eastern, middle, and western Sister, though 
 in fact they lie from each otlier n»r(h-east and south-west ; 
 tiiey are aii smail, neither extcuis twenty or thirty acres. 
 The eastern Sister, the smallest of (he three, being about 
 three acres, on wliich a considerable part of general Harri- 
 son's army, the same whieli recoiKiiierod Michigan, and de- 
 feated general Proctor on the Thames, was encuiiiped from 
 the 25(h (0 the 27(ii September, 1813. It was, in all iiumaa 
 probabiiily, for (hat length of time, the best peopled island 
 that ever existed on our globe. 
 
 On the afiernoon of the 11th, I arrived in the city of Dcr 
 troit, considerably faiigued, and very willing to enjoy solid 
 {and, though so short a time in the vessel. You will bear of 
 me again in a few days. 
 
 Adieu. 
 
 LETTER XV. ' 
 
 JDelroil, Jiu^usl li, ISIS. 
 
 Dear Sik, 
 
 I HAVE now been three days in this city, which for niany 
 reasons has excited and continues to excite more attention 
 than its apparent magnitude would seem to justify. The 
 
188 
 
 DETEOIT. 
 
 [iBT. X*. 
 
 events of last war contrifauted to render both the ci*y and 
 coiinli'j' objects of great interest to the American people. 
 Like most events that have taken place in the world, w here 
 so much passion was excited, I am convinced tiiat those in 
 this quarter, and tlie operations of affairs here, have never 
 been given to tlie world in all the naked purity of truth: 
 This much may be said, without once attemptiiig to call in 
 question the veraeily of any individual. Much distorlion of 
 judgment may exist without a breach of rectitude. It would 
 perhaps be dangerous to offer an opinion in mitigation of the 
 conduct of general Hull, and yet if the expressions of those 
 most concerned and best informed on this subject, that is 
 the persons who were here before tlie war, and remained 
 here to its termination, deserve any weight, that unfortunate 
 officer was rather iiicapa!)!e than treacherous, rather borne 
 down by the weigiit of the difficulties that environed him on 
 all sides, tlian disposed to sacrifice either the interest or 
 honor of a eoustry, in whose service he had grown grey. 
 And yet if these mitigating opinions be founded upon reality, 
 general Hull, if his days were not abridged, the remaining 
 years of bis life were iloomed to be passed in bitterness and 
 regret, for causes over which he Lad no control, for calami- 
 des in which he himself was a sufferer, and without the 
 power to produce a preventive or remedy. 
 
 Detroit, poiiJicaily and commercially, is separated by an 
 expanse of wafer, and by an uncultivated waste, from the 
 other parts of the United States, and remains, together with 
 the little commiiniiy in its environs, an isolated moral mass, 
 having few sympathies ia coMinon, and but a slight tie of 
 interest to unite it to the sovereignty of which it forms a 
 part. Much of the assoeiation is formed with, and gi-eat 
 part of the trade of Detroit is yet carried towards a foreign 
 state. This separation of sentiment and action, is daily be- 
 coming less distant between the great body of the United 
 States commuuiSy, and a small but important member. The 
 savage tribes are retiring, and civilized man extending his 
 
XET. XV.] 
 
 DETKOIT. 
 
 1S9 
 
 dwelling ovei' the wide expanse, from Ohio river to lakis 
 Michigan and Huron. 
 
 Many years past, when I resided in Louisiana, and when 
 by a fi-eak of folly so eommon with Spanish offietrs, the 
 port of New-Orleans was closed upon the Interior comuieree 
 of the United States ; I well remember that the two great 
 political parJies, into which our country was then divided, 
 though discussing warmly the most proper means of procu- 
 ring this commercial key, in one citcumstanee they were of 
 accord, that was, that the surplus produce of all our slates 
 and territories, situated upon the tributary streams of the 
 Mississippi, must find a vent by that great outlet ; and poli- 
 ticians of all parties conceded that the power, whether that 
 of Spain, France, Great Britain, or the United States, 
 which possessed New-Orleans, must, with that rity, secure 
 also the political and moral government of the inliabitants of 
 countries, whose vital interests were there concentrated. I 
 have heard and read many reasons given for and against the 
 Grand Canal of New- York, but the most potent incentive to 
 its completion, that ought to iiifluence those who are employ- 
 ed to carry that vast project into execution, has been generV 
 rally overlooked. If such a channel of commerce was open, 
 the consequence would be, not only to secure to the United 
 States the benefits of the produce of its own industry, but 
 also to secure the moral attachment of the inhabitants of some 
 of its remote, and, as matters novv stand, most detached parts. 
 Above the falls of Niagara, Canadian commerce would also 
 flow with the most open, unobstructed current, and give to 
 the people of the United States an irresistible influence over 
 the widest extent, and most fertile part of Upper Canada. 
 Buffalo, Detroit, Michilimakinac, and Green bay, would 
 form an immense chain of inter-communication, and by Fox 
 and Ouisconsin rivers, the commercial rivalry of New-York 
 and New Orleans would come in contact in the heart of our 
 country. 
 
 O 2 
 
190 
 
 UKTKOIT. 
 
 [let. XT' 
 
 Doiioit is nov." a plas-c of extensive t'oiuineree, v.ish kU 
 i!ie aUi'ibiitfs of a sca{u>i'( ; it forsjis (he iinifin!,^ liiik lietwi't'ii 
 a >;ist inlt'i'ioi', inhaisitrd jel, in gloat [>art !>y suviiges, and 
 the civilizcti Alluntic boitiur. Yosi here behold those pon- 
 <k.'rousi [Kiekagcs of articles desiiiied for lnili;in tntde, siisd 
 iviiile viewing lliose Ijaies of slfoiid iuii! hluniieis. I touUl not 
 avoid caiiiii!" to recollefction tlie time when I beheld the suuic 
 objects upon tlic Ohio, at I'iilshurg, Wheeling, Marietia, 
 Cincinnati, and Louisville ; places, whereat Shis tiisie, those 
 rude articles are replaced by objects to saiisfj the wants, or 
 gralifj' the Iiixurj' of a polished people. The resident society 
 of Detroit, has all the exterior features of a nourishing ami 
 cultivated coiinnsinitv, as iniieh so, equivalent lo ni!nihers, as 
 any ciiy of the United States. I partienhirly remarJicd the 
 great resemblance between the cin rent of busisiess and inix- 
 ttirc of people here, and at Natchitodses on Sed river, in 
 Loiiisiann. Each place occupies the point of contact, be- 
 tween (he aboriginal inhabitants of the wilderness, and the 
 civilized people, who are pressing those natives of Worth 
 America backwards, by the double force of pbjsical and 
 moral weight. In each plate, jou behold at one glance tlse 
 extremes of human improvenient, costume, aiid manners. 
 Yon behold (lie inhabitants in habilinicnts that would siiil the 
 walks of New-York, Philadelphia, London or Paris, and yoii 
 also behold the busliy, bare-headed savage, almost in priiiiKj- 
 Tal nudity. Jn the same store-hotise, you see placed upcii 
 tlic saitie shelf, objects to supply the first and last -wantd of 
 Lunian nature. 
 
 The city of Detroit is situated upon the right baisk of tlic 
 s.(rail of the sanse, which unites laiies Erie anS Huron ;* 
 lat 42" IS' 36" — W. long, from Washington cily, 5° gg' — 
 or S3° 36' west from London. The stri.it (Detroit) is of 
 very uneqtial breadlh, its nariowest part is iniinedialely op- 
 
 * Betroit, is the French for Strait, and lileraily signifies JVar- 
 row ; from wiiich ciiaiige of an adjective to a noun, comes Use 
 name of Detroit. 
 
lET. XV.] 
 
 DETEOIT. 
 
 191 
 
 posite (he eilj of Detroit, I had letters to Peter Audrain, 
 esq. Register of ihe land office in this ciiy, which proeui'ed 
 Kie access to the maps in his ofRei', amoogst which is an-excel- 
 isnt repfesentation of thai part of t!ic Michigan Territory 
 which has been surveyed, together with (he sEraits of St. 
 Clair and Erie, and lake St. Clair, connected with the adja- 
 cent shores of Canada. I have copied this map, from which 
 the following table is constructed : 
 
 OP THT- STATIONARY DISTANCES FROM LAKE BKiE TO LAKE HURON, 
 V/ITH THE WIDTH OF THE SRAITS OPPOStrli EACH STATION'. 
 
 Station. Milos. Breadth. 
 
 Huron river, U. S. shore, 
 Lowier extreinity of Celeron island, 
 Mouth of Brown's creek, U. S. .shoi-e, 
 IJois I'l.inc island, Oj)posite the Sower end 
 
 of Gros isle,. 
 Upper end of Bois Blntic, 
 Ainherst.^htirg, and t ort Maiden, Canada, 
 Eiver aux Canards, 
 Lower endi'of Grar.d Turkey island, 
 Upper end of Gros island, U. S. shore, 
 Mouth of the river Ecorces, 
 Upper end of Grand '-S'urkey island, - 
 River Rouge, U. b. shore, - 
 .Sandwich, in Canada, 
 City of DETROIT, - 
 'Lower end of liog island, 
 Upper do. do. 
 Lower end of Peach island, 
 Upper do. do. 
 Mouth of Huron uiver, of lake St. Clair, 
 
 and entrance to Anchor ba)', 
 Mouth of St. Clair river. 
 Outlet of the Eagle channel, 
 Outlet of the Warpoie channel, 
 Outlet of the Clieuail Ecrate, 
 Mouth of Belle Riviere, 
 Mouth of Pine river, - - ■ 
 
 Lower end of isle aux Cerfe, 
 Upper end of do. 
 River Delude, U. S. shore, 
 Fort Gratiot, M. T. and entrance to lake 
 
 Huron, .... 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 1-1 
 
 1-4 
 3 1-2 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 1-2 
 2- I 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 
 !9 
 7 
 i 
 
 9 
 10 
 13 
 14 
 
 ir 
 
 18 
 20 
 
 21 1- 
 
 24 
 25 
 27 
 28 
 
 47 
 
 54 
 5S 
 61 
 63 
 67 
 75 
 79 
 81 
 86 
 
 89 
 
19a 
 
 [let. XV. 
 
 Tljese distances Jirc n«t taken witli precision (o small frac- 
 tions of a mi!e, but liieasuiing (lie enlii-e disianccs by five 
 mile sections talien from the sculi', the resyeelivc results arc 
 sufBeicntly near as to answer all general purposes, and will 
 suffiee to enable joii to form an acciirafe idea of the rela- 
 tive position of tlie places named. I have not given in 
 the table the hrcadih of St.' Clair river, above the Che- 
 nail Ecarte,* ss it is mLifoi nily about three fourihs of a 
 mile. 
 
 Approaching the mouth of Deiroit vivcr, the shores oo 
 all sides are low, no land is seen that rises to any considera- 
 ble elevation above the water. The sSiip ehannel being on 
 the Canada side, vessels pass close upon the cape below Ani- 
 lierslburg ; the shores rise here very gently fi-om the lake, 
 soil sandy, bill appear well settled and eultivaied. Huron 
 river of lake Erief enters from Michigan Territory, where 
 the lake is so contracted as to render it a suitable point to 
 coniHiecce the name of the strait, though no perceptible 
 current appears below the bottom of Ilois Blanc island. A 
 group of sBsail islands encircle the lower end of Gros isle,- 
 of which Celeron, Hiekoiy, Sugar, Fox, «nd particularly 
 Bois Blanc, are t!it principal. The latter is indeed of great 
 consequence. It is high, dry, and fit for culture,- covered 
 •with limber, soil extremely fertile j but what renders it a 
 particular ohjfti of interest, is the circumstance of its com- 
 pletely commanding (he main ship channel to Detroit. A 
 mrneh wider expanse of water lies between Bois Biane and 
 Ciros isle, and betv»een Gros isle and the continent of Mi- 
 
 * The term Chenid, or mere correctly Chenal Ecarte, signifies 
 literally dispo sed or scattered, and is very weii applied to the out- 
 Ictof rivers; but tbe same imiiie is given in several iostances in 
 Canada to waters tlawiiig into others, therefore very improper. 
 
 t There are three rivers of this name, two of which enter lake 
 Erie, and one Anchor bay in lake St. Clair. It is extremely per- 
 plexing, such repetition of the same nar.ics for places so near each 
 other. ' • 
 
lET. XT.] 
 
 AMHEHSTBURK. 
 
 193 
 
 eliigan Territory, than flows between Bois Biaac and She, Can- 
 ada shore, but the latter, though not, ahove one quarter of a 
 Siiiic wide, is deep enough fw the liirgcst vessel, whilst the 
 others are shaiiow, and perplexed with smali islands and 
 sunken bars. 
 
 During last war, a small battery was erected on the lovver 
 point of Bois Blatic, which is now deserted, and the island 
 now serves as a camping ground for the savages who visit 
 Amiiersthurg. This island wiii be one of the most impor- 
 tant points which llie commissioners, under the treaty of 
 Ghent, will have to determiae. At Amhersthiirg the banks 
 have gradually risen to fifteen or twenty feet above the wafer, 
 sloping by very gentle acclivity. The town contains from 
 350 to ,!yo houses, mostly of wood, and perhaps twelve hun- 
 dred people. The harbor is excellent, the water continuing 
 deep to very near the shore. Some fine ware-houses line the 
 banks, and with the shipping give a eommercial air to the 
 place. The adjacent farms have an elegant appearance, 
 and follow each other without much interval of uncleared 
 land. 
 
 Fort Maiden, by which name Amherstburg was formerly 
 know n,- stands ai)ove the town, but is now in ruins, 6nly some 
 dilapidated breast works and barracks remain, to be perhaps 
 never repaired. 
 
 Gros ish^is a line body of land, eight miles long by a me- 
 dial width of one and a half miles, contains about twelve 
 sections of a mile square, or 7,680 acres of excellent land. 
 Several farms have been opened on this island, but the great- 
 est part of its surface continues under a heavy forest. From 
 the upper point of Bois Blanc island, (he ship channel grad- 
 iiaiiy leaves the Canada shore, and passes between Gros and 
 Grand Turkey island, the main channel about two miles 
 wide. Turkey island is about seven miles in length and one 
 mile iiieaiai breadth, much of its surface marshy. The 
 riviere aux Canards or Duck river, falls into the strait 
 from the Canada side, one mile below the lower point of 
 
STliAIT. 
 
 [lET. xr. 
 
 Grand Turkey island ; the riviere aus Ecoiccs or Bark 
 river from Miciiiijan j errilerj, eniers sonie-tljing aiioie its 
 iniduSe, or two miles above (he higher point of Gs'os isle ; 
 riviere Rouge or lied river, falls into tlie strait, jiLso fiom 
 Micliigiiii Territory, four miles above (he riviere aux lii or- 
 ces, and one roik' above the higher exlreuiifj ol Grand Tur- 
 key island. Above the latter is!;ind, the siniit suddenly con- 
 traets from four to one and a ejuurter wide, and eontiniies 
 beconiir.g narrower to the oily of Detroit, where its width 
 falls short of a mile. 
 
 In coming up the strait, when (lie woods of Gros isle arc 
 cleared, bo!h shores exiiibit lines of farm hoisses, iniersper- 
 sed with orchards aad gardens, 'j'he setilcments on the 
 United Sfittes side, eoniinue up i'se rivieres Ecorees and 
 llouge, which, (ogether Vi'ith tliose along the shore of that 
 s(rais, present a eonislry in a high staie of eukure. The 
 Canada shore is not less improved than (hat of tiie United 
 StaJes ; farm follows farm upois both ijanks, which, with the 
 houses, wiiid-cuils. and vessels on (he strait, uQ'ord a fine 
 picture of agricultural and cosiiniorcia! prosperity. 
 
 The banks upon the United States shore, rise from (be 
 water less abruptly than those of Canada, except at (he 
 spring mill, three miles helow (he city of lictroit. where the 
 former rises to (lie height of twenty or (hirfy feet, appeai"- 
 ing as a comparative hiil as seen from (he strait. All the 
 rivers and creeks enter from both sides, through low, 
 swampy iayd covered with folle avoine, or wild oats. I'his 
 a(juatic grain, though thus named, is nevertheless essentially 
 difTereiit from cither oats or rice ; no vegetable that I have 
 ever seen, has a more beautiful appearance than is exhibited 
 hy the immense marshes, covered with (he folle avoine ; it 
 is now in blossom, exhaling a peculiarly pleasing fiagrance. 
 
 Sandwich is a small town, though the seat of justice in 
 Esses cou!!(y. Upper Caiiada ; it stands upon the banks of the 
 strait, one and a half mile below Detroit. I walked down 
 yesterday to the ferry opposite, antj crossed over to 8and- 
 
J,ET. -DETEOIT. lyS 
 
 meh, and refurncd io this cifj in the evening. I foisnd it a 
 villagp buil( priruiipally of wood, composing a siEigSt;. street 
 running paraiiel to tlie strait, with about tin Bi&ny stores and 
 taverns as woidd bo found in a place of sisniiar size in tht; 
 Uiutcd States. The banks slope gradually from the "vtater, 
 though imisicdiately above the town, thej rise abrupt, and 
 appear considerably higher tlian those opposite, .iiposi wSsiek 
 the (iity of Detroit is built. The shores of the strait on both 
 sides are cleared of timber from one and a half to three 
 miles from the water, givinj; the country in the rear of the 
 front fitriii houses a nalied appearance. The wotsds, where 
 not cut down, is excessively dense, and tlie timber large, 
 Tiie soil, if any judgment can be forriied by the aspect of the 
 crops, is very productive. Tiie bank of the strait has been 
 vaunted,! believe correctly, for its fine orchards ; fi-itit trees, 
 apples, pears, peaches, and plumbs, have a very healihy ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The oify of Detroit is exceedingly wei' siioaled for a com- 
 Tiicreiai port ,• the banks rise gently from the wafer, alFord- 
 ingan easy eommunication with the store-houses in th.-s city. 
 Several wharves have been extended to considerable dis- 
 tance into the stream, the largest and best of which was 
 wade by the officers of the United States troops, for the use 
 of, and ia fs'ont of tiie garrison. The sfreets are laid out 
 at right angles to each other, but arc all inclining frosii tise 
 banks of the strait. The main-street leaves . she strait in 
 front of the gari'ison, but at !he upper end of the sihy li;is 
 two other parallel str-ects between it and the v. liurves. ho 
 crces streets are not of much consequence at -present, having 
 but few houses built, upon them, except near She raain-street. 
 Leaving the lower end of the cily,- it is <;ifiicuit to know 
 where it terininates, as the fann houses are so closely uai- 
 ted to each other. Above the city, though the jnargin of 
 iho strait is well cultivated, the furBi hcr.ses do not stand 
 so compact as they do belov/. 
 
190 
 
 UETROIT. 
 
 [iET. XV. 
 
 I have found two men here, from whom I have received 
 much useful iiifornialioii and poiite (i'eafmeiU, governor Cass 
 iuid judge Blay, the lalter uf whom h:is resided at Defvoit 
 furtj years, and possesses, perhaps, more correct knowledge 
 of its history, than any man living. Gov. Cass resides oti 
 the baniis of tlie strait below the garrison. To these two 
 cxeellciit men I am under very great obligations. The gov- 
 ernor leaves this city on the Ifith to meet the governor of 
 Ohio, in order to Isold a treaty with the Pulawattamies, "Wv- 
 andots, Seaeeas, Wcas, and other nations of Indians.* 
 
 * This treaty resulted in the following cessions of land, with 
 t!ie annexed reservations. The cessions are of great conse- 
 quence to the frontiers of Oliio and Michigan, as it tends to re- 
 move the savages to a greater distance westward. 
 
 ■ " CiNCiNN.\Tr, Oct. 15. 
 Treaties with the Indians. — Our correspondent at St. Mary 's 
 lias furnished us with the following hasiy sketch of the treaties 
 concluded with the Indians by our commissioners. The tre.ilies 
 were signed on tiie 6th inst By these treaties the United States 
 have secured more than seven millions of acres of land. 
 
 " We learn from our correspondent that the Miamis manifest- 
 ed a great deal of duplicity in their negociations. 
 
 " To the slates of Ohio and Indiana these acquisitions are of 
 immense importance. In a few years these almost interminable 
 forests will be coiiverted into flourisliing towns and villages, and 
 cultivated farms; tiie silent footsteps of the savage will give way 
 to ihe resounding of the axe, the din of industiy, and the bustle 
 of commercial enterprise. 
 
 . " REVISION OF THE TEEATY OP 1817. 
 
 "Additional reserves by the VV'yandots at Upper Sandusky; 
 on the north side between tiie Cherokee Boys reserve and the 12 
 miles 6-V.' t.crcs, connecting the two; and on oast side of the 12 
 miles, 55,680 acres. 
 
 " To tlie Wynndots, residing at Solomon's town, 16,000 acres 
 to centre at Big Spring, between Upper Sandusky and Fort Find- ' 
 lay, and 15j acres lower side Mrs. Whitaher's reserve at Lower 
 Sandusky, reserved for a ferry or crossing place for the Indians. 
 
 " To the Sliawanoes on the east side of the former reserve at 
 Wapakanetto, 12,800 acres. 
 
 " To the Sliav.anoes and Senecas on the west side of Lewis' 
 reserve of 7 miles, 8,960 acres ; al! to be equally divided east and 
 west the north haU'for the Senecas, and the south half for the Shaw- 
 anoes. 
 
1,ET. s:?.] 
 
 MlCifllGAN. 
 
 197 
 
 Respecting the present state of the population of tlie Ter- 
 ritory of Miehigan, I do not expect to receive muoh pos- 
 itive iafoE-mation, not contained in the census of 1810. Of 
 the positioa of the settlements, ant! the <]uaatity, quality and 
 
 " To the Seneca Indiafis adjoining soiith of their reserve of 
 IS 17 on each side Sandusky river, 10,000 acres. 
 
 " Mditional Annuities.— 'Va the W yandots, 500 dollars ; Shaw- 
 anoes and Senecas of Lewis' town, 1000 dollars ; Senecas on Saii- 
 diisky river 300 dollars : Ottavvays, .,500 dollars ; perpetually to 
 be paid annually. All, together with aiuiuities heretofore grant- 
 ed, payable in specie. 
 
 " TREATY OF 1818. 
 
 The Puttawattarnies cede from the mouth of Tippecanoe riv- 
 er up the same to a point that v.'iU be 25 miles from the Wabash 
 on a direct line ; thence parallel with the general course of the 
 Wabash to the Vermilliou river, down the same to the Wabash, 
 thence down the Wabash to the place of beginning (supposed to 
 be 50 or 60 miles,) all their title south of the Wabash, for which 
 they are to receive ,^3,500 in specie, annually forever, to be paid, 
 equally at Detroit and Chicago ; also annuities heretofore grant- 
 ed to be paid in specie. 
 
 "Grants to the following persou.'j, half bloods, James, Jolin, 
 Isaac, Jacob aud Abraham Burnet, two sections of laud each ; 
 and to Rebecca aud Nancy Ikn'uct, one section of land each — 
 half of tlie same on the lower side of the mouth of Tippeoanoe 
 river, on Wabash, and the other half on Flint river. 
 
 " 640 acres to Peerish, a Puttawattamie chiefs on Flint river, at 
 his residence. 
 
 " 640 acres to Mary Chaltalic, on VVabasii, below the mouth of 
 Pine river. 
 
 "The Weas cede their whole interest in Ohio Indiana and II- 
 !inois.^Reservatioii of 7 miles square, on Wabash, above the 
 niouth of Raccoon creek. Tb.e United States to pay them a per- 
 petual annuity of 1 1 50 dollars, which, added to aiinuilies hereto- 
 Ibre, makes 3000 dollars annually, all payable in specie. 
 
 " The De'awai es cede all their claims in Indianaon White river. 
 The United States to furnish them lands to settle on west of the 
 Mississippi, on the Arkansas ; pay them for their iniprovenieiits 
 where they now live in 120 horses, not to exceed 40 dollars in 
 value each ; furnish perogues for transportation, provisions for 
 their journej', permit them to ocoupy for three years hereafter 
 their farms on White river, and to pay them a perpetual annu- 
 ity of 4000 dollars, which, together with annuities now existing 
 are payable in specie — -Also to famish them with a blacksmith 
 n-hen tltey seltle v/cst of the Mississippi. 'I'hey reserve two atid a 
 
19S 
 
 MIClIIGAir 
 
 [tET. XV. 
 
 locajitj oT the ciiUivaliWe soil, I have procured considerable 
 (lociimcut not iiitlierto mads juibiie. Onv ordinary maps are 
 depSoraWy deficient respecting the pciiiiisula of Michigan, 
 some of the most important rivers are slightly marked or 
 whoily Oiiiittcd. Ikforo proceeding to give you a detail of 
 .the extent, position, and respective qualiiy of the soil, I will 
 present yaxi with the result of what I have learned in gen- 
 eral, respecting the geological structure of the peninsula, 
 contained between lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair, and 
 Erie, and the straits of Erie and St. Clair. 
 
 It is most probable that the entire region above the Thou- 
 sand islands to lake Superior, reposes upon a bed of 'floetz or 
 sehistie rock, of various component parts. I have already 
 noticed the phenonier.a which came to niy knowledge, along 
 tiie south and west of lake Erie, and pointed out their effect 
 upon the structure of the livers of that tract of eounti'v. 
 BejOfid the rilauince to lake Huron, all the streams, without 
 exception, which draw their sources from the inferior part 
 of the peninsula, are precipitated over oonsiderahle falls be- 
 fore arriving at tbeir mouths. You will perceive by the 
 nates cstrueted from Audrain's map,* (he materials which, 
 cosnpose the rocks, ever whose ledges these falls of water 
 arc thrown. It appears also that at the distance of twenty 
 
 lialf seclionsof lantl at First creckjabove Old Fort and are to receive 
 13,320 do!l!u-,s for the lifjiudation of debts owed by them to traderSj 
 &c. 
 
 Tlie IMinmics cede their interest to the cnentrv east of the W' a- 
 bash, soutli of a Utie fi om Fort Wayne west to the Wabasli ; re- 
 .scrving one tract of 30 inilcs square on the Wabash, 'besides a 
 great many others of less magnitude. The United States to pay 
 them § 15,000 per annum, perpetually, in specie. 
 
 * I have srivcn this map the name of Audrain in the text, as it 
 was from l\ir. Audrain I procured a copy ; but in justice it ought 
 .In be noticed that the map was conslruefed by Mr. Greely, the 
 United States' Surveyor in Michigan Territory, and tliose useful 
 notes were niatle upon the original map by Mr. Oreely, in liis own 
 li.rtnd writing. 
 
lET. XV.] 
 
 M1CH16AX 
 
 199 
 
 or twentj-fiYC miles from the extreme depressioa of the val- 
 ley of St. Ciair and Erie, that the table land of Michigan 
 becomes fliit, ami covered with innumerabSs ponds and inter- 
 locking water courses. The rivers have their sources upon 
 this extensive flat, and flow soiiih-east info St. Ciair and 
 Erie, and north-west into Michigan, passing over an arable 
 border of about-twenty-iive miles wide, which skirt (he laiias 
 and straits from Matunee to Calunset. Some of the interior 
 plateau is described as good land, but the face of the eoun- 
 try is generally too ievel, aud of course subject to imtnersion 
 in wet seasons. 
 
 The length of, the rivers which flow from this taWe land, 
 is renias'kubiy equal, and iheir banks composed of very sim- 
 ihir soil, and covered with timber of correlative species, 
 E.\(ensivc tracts, are open natural meadows or prairie. 
 
 From the foregoing you wiii perceive that the peninsula 
 of Michigan is a vast cape, projected northwards from the 
 elevated region, frosn which How the Wabash, Maun^ee, and 
 the eastern streams of theiUinois river. 
 
 Its execusing the surveys in the Michigan Territory, a 
 Hieridiaii line has been drawn, commencing on the river 
 liaisin about five miles wbove its moiUh, and continuing from 
 tliencc due north seventy- (wo miles, from whence was drawn 
 another line due east fifty two miles, wiiieh interscets the 
 head of St. Clair river at Fort Gratiot. I do not know in 
 what nsanner tke surveys were made, but this is their out- 
 line, as they statsd represented in the land office in the ciSy of 
 Detroit. Bounded west and north by these lines, and upon 
 ai! otiier sides by S(. Ciair river, St. Clair lake, Detroit 
 river, .'ind lake Erie. The ancient sett leiTsents were formed 
 a!o!ig tiie water courses, and continue (o be in most part the 
 only establishments yet made in the territory. 
 
 Tfic superfiiiies iueluded in the surveys, does not vary 
 much from 2,500 square niih-s or 1,600,000 acres. Some 
 part of the United States land in (his area has been sold, 
 bat the sales did uot operate to add nuich to the popnlation 
 
300 
 
 MICHISAN. 
 
 [let. XV. 
 
 of the country. The valuable fractions of sections were in 
 a^reat share purchased by the resident inhabitants, and an- 
 nexed to lands already in tlieir possession. Though the soil 
 is good in genera!, sonic of it exceilonj, and a!! parts well 
 situated for agriculture and commerce, some causes have 
 liitiicrto operated to prevent any ses'ious emigi'atioii to the 
 Michigan Territory. For upwards of a month that I have 
 been travelling between this city and Geneva, in the stale of 
 New- York, 1 have seen hundreds removing to the west, and 
 not one in fifty with an intention to settle in Michigan Terri- 
 tory. By the census of 1810, the inhabiianis then were 
 ■i,762, falling short of 5,000. I cannot be. led to consider 
 this enumeration correct, there were in all reasonable modes 
 of calculation, more than 6,000 people in this territory at 
 that period. I cannot consider the present number short of 
 10,000. though since 1810, no increment has been added of 
 eonsefjucnce to the mass, except that of natural increase. 
 The city of Detroit contains at least 1,200 people, and it 
 does not include more than one eighth of the whole body. 
 
 The lines of settlement extend along the river Raisin, Hu- 
 ron of lake Erie, Detroit river, riviere aux Ecorces, river 
 Rouge, lake SU Clair, Huron of St. Clair, and St. Clair 
 river. Many other minor streams are also lined with set- 
 tlements. I have already observed the great uniformity in 
 the quality of the land. In no country in which I have trav- 
 elled, are there to be seen so much sameness in that, and in- 
 deed in many other respects, This monotony does not, how- 
 ever, extend to the productions of the soil, ' which are as 
 varied as the climate will admit ; small grain of all kinds 
 that can be cultivated north of lat. 42°, can be reared in 
 abundance. Fruits are remarkably productive. 
 
 The climate, at least as far north as Fort Gratiot, is as tem- 
 perate as that of the western parts of the state of New-York, 
 and perhaps more healthy. It is conceded that the seasons 
 are much more mild at Detroit than at Buffalo, the differ- 
 ence is greater than could be expected from the small differ- 
 
lET. XV.] 
 
 301 
 
 <;nce in latitude, less than one degree. The phenomenon 
 imiy be, and I bylieve it is jirodiiuijd !iy tiie prevalence of 
 westerly winds, wiiieh crowd the ice coiitiu!iai)y into the 
 ISf. K. angle of laka Erie. 
 
 'I'he following notes I extracted iVoni the maj) in Mr. Au- 
 drain's office ; ihey wiil affyrd y»>ii some knowledge of parts 
 of our country hi!herlo unknown. 
 
 " liiviere iius llaisins, (Grape river) is a rapid stream of 
 sibout loO niiies in lengili, and generally four chains isi 
 breadtii During the lime of fresiiels, large raffs of liin- 
 Ijer can descend llie river fioni the conlluence of the Nec- 
 Kiccon, a considerable brancli, about 2,h miles from lake 
 Erie. Sis miles above tlie niouih of the rivei- Kaisin, its 
 rapidity is such tiiat it can only be ascended with light ca- 
 noes ; at the mouth it has a sand bur, which obstructs the 
 entrance of vessels drawing more than two feet water. 
 
 The banks are clothed with heavy qak, hickory, ash, cim, 
 linden, yellow wooil (^Lirioilemlrou tiilipifera) the latter an- 
 swering well for boards ; the soil is a black loam." 
 
 " Huron of Krie, can be ascended 130 miles to a portage 
 of about 3 miles, into a stream called the Grand river, en- 
 tering into lake Michigan. The river Huron is about 200 
 miles in length ; coarse from the west, and general width 
 four chains 88 yards. 
 
 Vessels drawing four feet water can enter and ascend four 
 miles. The land is geiieraliy hilly on tlie southern border, 
 having good limber and rich soil ; and on the northern bor- 
 der extensive prairies, light sandy soil." 
 
 " Kiviere Rouge is about two chains in width, discharging 
 into the strait of Erie about four miles below the city of De- 
 troit ; it is navigable for vessels drawing Ifi feet water, four 
 miles from its mouth to the ship yard thence for craft 
 drawings feet water. Smiles, it then branches into conside- 
 rable streams, upon which the lands are excellent. The 
 timber on the banks of this river is oak, sugar maple, elin, 
 
 P 
 
5IICHIQ.VX. [let. ,xv. 
 
 bliss wood, flinrleu J pot)!ai'. fUruHlendron tulipiferaj and 
 oiik. TiiR soil is i\ bh-u-k loam." 
 
 " Huron of lake St. Cluir, is s^enrr-iilly about (hree chains 
 (SO yards) in v. idib, aii'J navigab'e fur boals drawing three 
 feet wafer ten tniles, to tiie iirst hivineh. The main branch 
 inteWocks with ihe northern brunches of tiie river Koiige. 
 '1 be Imrdcro!' this river is eovcred with eseellent wiiiteoak, 
 and liie soil is etjiia! toauyiii the lerrilorj." 
 
 I'iu'se notes were taken by me i'rom the original map, in 
 the surveyor's, Mv. Aaron Grely's own hand writing. I 
 deesii then! oi' statislii a! iai|ior(ai3S!e, as being made from 
 actual observation under liie •aiilfsori'y of the IJniteil Staffs 
 govern men!, and as they lenii to esl.iLiisb the great general 
 features of the rivers of x'tlichigau 'iVrrirory. 
 
 It may be observed as a curious gi oiogieal coincidence, 
 lhajt t!io Michigan jieniiisuia is eontrasied with another pro- 
 jection of land, of u sisiiilar general form and very nearly 
 equal extent. Tiic Canadian peninusula is, however, more 
 insulated than that of Michigan. Ti)e former is also dis- 
 tinguislu'd from the latter by some other peculiar features. 
 The river Tiiames (hi riviere a la 'J'ranelie) of the Fi'eneli 
 or Escansippi of the savages, rises in very near the centre of 
 the Canadian peninsula, riuis to tiie south-west, having also 
 anotlicr parallel and almost equal stream to tiie Chenal 
 Jicai'le, ilowing boih into ihe eastern side of lake Si. Clair. 
 
 It u!e liiat these two streams are without falls 
 
 or rapids in ail tlieir course ; the 'llse.nies about one hundred, 
 and the Chenal Ecarte eighty miles in length. This exemp- 
 tion froi!) rapids is the ease, however, with all the known 
 streams of this part of Catsada, and proves tiiat its surface 
 isiiiiu'h lower than that of tlie Siiehigan peninsula. The 
 soi! of the former, fiom all t!ie eoncurretit accounts I have 
 seen is even siili !\iOrc fertile lljan that of the latter. • 
 
 Mr. Sansuel R. Br(!wn, author of ihe Western Gazetteer, 
 speaking from personal observation, having ijeen in general 
 Harrison's army when that oiiicer pursued general Proctor 
 
lET. XT.] 
 
 MICHIGAJT. 
 
 up (he Thames, states (hat, " The land in this part of tlie 
 " Upper Pfoviisee is uncommonly fertile, a.ici adoilrably eal- 
 <' culated for fai-ins. On tlie river there are extensive bo(- 
 " Toms, then a fjentle rise of beautifui limbered land, to 
 " which succeed opeiiings well calculated for wheat." 
 
 [Mr. Brown's iHimphlct, Troy, iSll, p. 65. 
 
 Smilh's Gazetteer of Upper Canada, describing the 
 Thaascs, observes thai, " It is a fuse inland canal, and capa- 
 " bio of being greatly improved. The lands on i(s banks 
 
 arc extremely feriiie." 
 
 Mr. Bouchelte gives a richly coloured, but t am induced 
 to believe a true sketch of this charming country. 
 
 " Along the northern part of (he JViagara disirict runs a 
 ridge called (he Quoenstowii heights, stretching across the 
 river Niagara, and away eastward inio the slato of New- 
 York ; tlie altiinde of this range in any part of it, does not 
 exceed 160 yards above (be surface of (he lake, (Ontario.) 
 This space containing (he Neweasdo, (lie Ilonie, and (ho Nia- 
 gara districts, is watered by a great number of sd eauis, bo(h 
 Jarge and small, (hat greatly contribute (o i(s ferlillty ; in 
 the la((er district istiie Weiland, formerly called (he Chip- 
 pewa, a beautiful river, flowing through a remarkable fertile 
 coun(ry for about forty miles, and wholly uno!>s(ructcd by 
 falls ; also the Ouse or Grand river, a stream of much great- 
 er magnitude, rising in (he interior of (he coi!n(ry, towards 
 lake Huron, and after winding a long and picturesque course, 
 fails into lake Erie : across i!s mouth there is a bar, but 
 always with eight feet water upon it. It is navigable for 
 small vessels from (he lake many miles upwards, and for 
 boa(s to a much greater distance. 
 
 »> The land (hrough (he whole of (he last mentioned dis- 
 trict is uncommonly rich and fertile, wi(h a considerable por- 
 tion of very flourishing settlements upon it. From the river 
 Ouse, proceeding along (he shore of lake Erie, up (o (be 
 lake and river St. Clair, the whole space is extremely even* 
 with scarcely a league of it but what displays excellent situ- 
 
,MlClll(iAi\-. 
 
 [let. XV. 
 
 lUioiis fur seUit'iiieufs, aiu! in spois vlicic the land is already 
 imdci- (iilago ; finer crops or uioro iliriving farms are not to 
 be nift wit'i in imy part of cillicr province. 
 
 " Tiie poi iion of liic wcstci n district, l^ing between lake 
 Eric and liikc St. Clair, is f)erpliaps the most delightful of 
 all the province. 1'iic fertility of the soil, the richly diver- 
 sified and hixuriiint beauties that every vhere court tiic 
 view, the abundant variety of excellent lish that teem in the 
 rivers, and (lie jii oCiision ol" gaiiie of difterent species that 
 enliven ilic woods, tlse thickets and (he meadows, eonihine 
 to insure a i)refi'! encc to this highly favored tract for the 
 ( stahlishiiicnt of new selilcnicnis. 
 
 " Fi-oi!i the Oiise lo lake St. Ciair, (he space is occupied 
 by Hie London and Vt'estern districts ,• it is watered by ma- 
 isy small streams falling into lake Eric, besides the river 
 Clicnal Ecaite, and (he cx<]iiisilely picturesque river 
 Thames, formerly called the l iviere a la Franclie. The 
 latter rises far in (he interior, about the township of Bland- 
 ford, and after pursuing a serpentine course in a direction 
 nearly sot:th-v. est, discharges itself into lake St. Clair. It 
 is navigable foi- vessels full twenty miles from its mouth, 
 and for boats and canoes nearly up (o its source, but little 
 less t!;an one hundred miles. The river Chenal Eearte runs 
 almost jiaraUcl to (he 'I'hanics, at about ten miles from it, 
 and also falls into Lake St. Ciair. Tiie jsortions now des- 
 cribed are those only (hat are more or less settled upon. 
 In the rear of the townships are large tracts of land stretch- 
 ing fi'.r to the nijflliward, covered with immense forests, and 
 lii'le iciiown except (o the Indians ; but it has been ascer- 
 tained that (here are many wide spreading extents of rich 
 and fertile Koi!, particularly bordering upon the south-west 
 bank of the Ottawa river, 'i'hrough these regions, as yet 
 linexplorcd by civilized man, there are many streams, and 
 some of great size (hat ilow both into lake Huron and into 
 the Ottawa river but none of them have been sufiitiently 
 (ritccd to udusit of being delineated on any map. TiuiL-erin 
 
TiET. XV.] 
 
 MICIIIGAS. 
 
 203 
 
 almost every variefy is found in thfe greatest pioriisioii ; t!io 
 oak, beech, walnut, (hickory) asfi, tnaplo, cliij, pine, syca- 
 more, birch, and many otiicr sorts ai'e oi' peculiar exeellence, 
 anil oi" capital (linicnsions. 'J'iie diisiatc is so peculiarly sa- 
 lubrious, that epidemic diseases, either amongst men or cat- 
 tle, arc almost unknown; its influence upon the fertility of 
 the SQ}l4s more generally perceptible tlian it is in Lower 
 Canada, find supposed to be congenial to vegetation in a 
 Biiieh superior degree. The winters are shorter, and not 
 always marked with such rigor as in the latter ; tlii; dura- 
 tion of the frost is always accompanied w ith a fine clear sky 
 and a dry atmosphere ; the spring opens, and (he resump- 
 tion of agricultural labor fakes place from six weeks (o two 
 siionths earlier than what it does iu i!ie neigliborliocd of 
 Quebec; the summer heats rarely prevail to excess, and the 
 autumns are usually very friendly to the harvests, and favor- 
 able for securing ail the late crops. In fact, upon so good a, 
 soil, and under sucii a climate, industry and an increase oi 
 population are only wanting to render this colony flourishing 
 and ii appy." 
 
 [Boueheltc\s Remarks upon Upper Canada, p. 5'J2. 
 
 The valley in which How the river Thanscs and Ciienal 
 Ecarte, in Canada, occupies (ho same relative part of the 
 peninsula, in which it exists, as does the table land of that 
 of Michigan, giving great advantage to the ibrmer. In 
 poir.t of soil and climate no particular difference can be per- 
 ceived between the opposing banks of the siraitsof Erie and 
 St. Clair. Ail the Canadian, and most of the Mieliigun pe- 
 ninsula, pre south ol the forly-iifih degree of north latitude ; 
 considerable (iiiferenee in the seasons exists between the 
 northern and souliiern parts ; spring is much earlier, and 
 autumn more protracted at Detroit, Sandwich, and Amhei-it^ 
 bitrg, than at York and Fort Gratiiit. 
 
 Taken as an entire whole, 1 very much doubt if any part 
 of the earth does greatly exceed the St. Law ienee valley, 
 in the natural benefits which, judiciously cultivated, secures 
 
 P3 
 
206 
 
 MICIUGAN. 
 
 [let. XV. 
 
 the Lappincss. eomforl, ami iniluigeiu'ics of human life. I'he 
 sumiiicrs aiv (o a proverb (leiighLfiil, the viniers arc cok!, 
 when eoiispared wilh those of even our midiilo states, but a 
 Canadian winter if cold, is uniform to a degree iaeoncciva- 
 h!e, !o Uiost of (hose who are aeqiiaiiiledwiilitheehaiigcahle 
 seasons below tlie forty-second degree of north latiijide. In 
 the meaning of tlie term Canadian winter, I do not simply 
 intend (hose of Canada onJy ; it appiics v.ith equal iorce to 
 nearly, if not all the countries drained by (he St. Lawrence, 
 of course includes iunnensc tracts comprised within the ter- 
 I'Uorial limits of the United States. 
 
 I am now upon (he eve of returning to t!ic city of Jfcw- 
 York, of retracing my steps, and of bidding, perhaps asi 
 eternal adieu in a few days to a country, Mhere the pain, 
 anxiety, and vicissitudes of travciling, did not prevent me 
 from beliolding and admiring the face of nature in her rich- 
 est garb. I have endeavored to convey to the fiiend of my 
 lieart the impressions I have received. You knov^ how far I 
 have succeeded. J now turn a longing Ungerivg look" to- 
 wards home, and the dearest associations of life ; 1 hope iti 
 less than one mouth to again embrace those friends, wiioni, 
 amid even the wonders of Niagara, or the storms of Erie 1 
 eouid not forget. I hope to leave this city (o-morrow, in Sliu 
 mcRxi lime, 
 
 Adieu, 
 
liBT. XV J. 
 
 EiJFFAia; 
 
 207 
 
 ■ ■ LETTEa XVI. 
 
 Buffalo, dugust 31, ISIS. 
 
 Dear Siii, 
 
 As I informed you in mj last, I left Detroit on the 23(1 
 inst. and iiiive ari ived here yesierdnj. 1 took my passage 
 in a lake seiioonee. T'le steaiii boat Wtdk-in-tiie-wuter was 
 jm,i>at!ently expecled .'it tSeiroil, but did not arrive until after 
 I left tliat city ; I did tio! see her, hat learned al the town of 
 Erie that she was gone up and perfoi'Hied well, though draw- 
 ing rather loo much water (o suit eniireiy the navigation of 
 lake Erie. She siranded in about seven feet water on Erie 
 bar. A more fatal iauit in (he construefion of any vessel 
 to be used on lake Erie could not be easily comuiiUed, as 
 that of too great thaught of water. The harbors are few, 
 narrow, and difficiill (o enter, and the iiitcnuediate sliores- 
 dangerous in the extreine. With the exception of the Nia- 
 gara river bi low Bird island, Put-in-bay in the southern Bass 
 island, and Detroit river, tliere exists no harbor iti lake 
 Erie that can be safely entered in a swelling sea, with a ves- 
 sel drawing seven feet water. To the nu.'uber of vessels 
 whicli are actively employed, I am convinced there are ma- 
 ny more wrecked on lake Erie, tiian on the coast of the 
 United Slates, dangerous as is some parts of tliat coast, 
 Dunkirk is an open harbor, biit for suitable vessels can be, 
 esf.ept Put- in- bay and Detroit river, most easily enlercd of 
 any in the lake ; and next to Dttnkirk in facility of entrance, 
 a;**"' Maumee ansl Sandusky. The bays are indeed geacrally 
 ijiore easy of approach than are the rivers, 
 
 I was muels pleased to find that the sshooner in which I 
 pehformed my passage, was to take Maumee bay in its 
 course..as that and Erie vvpre the only places of pariicuhir 
 importance, along the Ursiied States shore of lake Eric, 
 whicli 1 had not visited going up. 
 
[j,KT. xri. 
 
 Our vessci fcH ilouii Deiroit l ivcr uiiii a iinc iighf tjscrsp, 
 ■wliieli dic{S away in ihc t viMnnj; ;\m] left i!s Iving (jiiie t inos' 
 jvdvt ol" the night ; but un iiic uionsing of (im ailh a ligli^ 
 K. W. wind spi nn^^^ up, wliitli iiUTcassiig with tiie nse of th'" 
 sun, canied us iini'lj along. 1 had a view, llioiigh a! a dis- 
 tance, of (he iiioiilli of the livcis lluion and iiaisin, the 
 houses of t!ie iiihabL(an!s standing like ■while spots upon (lie 
 disk of t!ie horizon. Leaving Ihe western Sis(er a sinall 
 distnnce (o (lie east, about y o'eloek P. M, our li(tlo bark 
 vas safelv at anelsor in Mauinee bav. 
 
 'f he wliole coast fi oui Aiiiliei'slburg (o l\Iau5i!ee is an un- 
 deviaiing f]a(. Aivproaehing Maumee bar, I sought on a!l 
 sides ['or some euiisieme, or some distant iiaige of hills, !'.> 
 break the monotony of the pel sjir e(!>e, none sueii sippeaied j 
 one dead unii'oriuitj, one narrow ih;e of woods, or the endless 
 expanse of wa(er iiiaiked the horizon, SlriiiiiK c bay is 
 formed Avi(b some resemldanre (o iliaf of Saiidiiskr, ihoiigh 
 the furnu-r is iieiiher so wide i.v .long as ihe Ia!!er. 'I'iic 
 M auniec river after lanibling ovrr a ledge of roeks near ForS 
 Meigs, gains (lie level of ihe great alluvial plain, notieed iss 
 my last, over whieh it meanders a few miles, expands to two 
 or tliree miles wide, and opens into the exlrenie soutii-wesS 
 angle of hike Krie. An ishsnd iti the fcria of a ereseent,. 
 iibout threc-lburdis of a inile long, lies very nearly luidway 
 between the two exterior rapes of (he bay, of course tv,o 
 elianncis lead into (his harbor. Behind (he ereseent islano, 
 vessels iind safe sbeher and excellent anehorage. 1 ijKd no 
 means to measure the exact distanee from (he island (o tlic 
 opposing capes, but would judge ahou( (hree miles, and very 
 nearly a siuii'ar distance to a part of (he shore to the east of 
 the iuoudi of Mauuice river. Like most of tiie harbors of 
 ICric, Maumee has sc\en feet vvatei- on (he bars east and wesj 
 of the crescerit island. Onr vessel passed in(o (lie bay (he 
 west channel, close upon the point of the island, and anekor- 
 id in the bay formed by its curve. 
 
iKT. XVI.] MA't'MEE. ii09 
 
 I Itiiidet! Upon the crescent, and foiiiid it a ijL-.iijiiiiii sniid 
 bar, about one liutulred and iU'iy yards wisic in iis bioadi'.sl. 
 jKirt, and eovcs-cd w'lih dwarf bushes of difFercHf kinds. 
 Near (he iriid<!le, and consequen'Jv widest j;art, the two sides 
 of liie island are higher than tiie e,en(er, leaving the latter a 
 pond of water, in wisicli are growing rushes, and other 
 aqiiaiio planls. Mimj years ])ast I wilnesstd (he same 
 feature in (he structure of t!se islands between Kew-Or- 
 Icans and Mobile hay. I have in fact found an astonishing 
 I'cseiiibhsnee hclwceti the appearance of iiiuch of t!se coast 
 of tlte Mexican gt:lf, and t!>e siiores of Erie, from Cievelaiu! 
 to Detroit. Crescent islatid no douhi, like the points whicin 
 enclose Sandusky bay, has been Ibrnicd by the iiiecting of 
 two ciirrenls ; it is now an adnurahle na(u!-al itioie to se- 
 cui-e (lie mouth of Manniec, and forms for the depth of wa^ 
 ter, one of the best harbors in ti.is lake of storms. 
 
 As I did not attempt ?lo petietraSe the country, I reniainttl 
 upon the islaisd aiid in tiso ship, wl ilst our ('aptaiH wriil up 
 tlie Mauuiee ri\er to transact his affairs, and on his reiurn 
 left the hi'V on the 2t;ih. Yv'c sailed nearly etsst, htiving the 
 Coast of Mauriiee (o Ktsndusky hay on our s-ig-hs, atid ihe- 
 Sisters and Jiacs isiatids to our lei't ; ciearing the narrows 
 !)ei\vee!i the sotitlierr! JSass and a cape of the Sandsisky pe- 
 liinsuhi, we veere-J !o the south-east between CunningL-iitii's 
 isiaiKi and t!ie etistern extremity of ihe pcninstila. and held 
 upon that course ttntii opposite tiie month of Sandusky hay, 
 we tiien changed t9 a iittie tsortli of east, an<i having ;i tine 
 steady soulli-west breeze, we hove to on the ?7ih H-joiti noon, 
 opposite Ihe mouth of As!i(:ii>i!la river. Sotne of our pas- 
 sengers, beside myself, went on siiorc ; iittie is iset e to be 
 seen. Ashttibuhi is a siiiail and ntiiniportant river, rising 
 ahotit thirty miles from the h;ke, its the state of Oiiio, giving 
 name to the north-east county of that state. Vessels of live 
 feet draiiglit of water can esiter Ashtalnilu two or tl!i'e& 
 miles. Only a eou[;!o of farm hctises can he s-"en at its 
 luouth, liiils appeal' rising almost from the margin of th - 
 
51,0 
 
 ERIE. 
 
 [lET. XVJ, 
 
 lake ; here indeed is one of (he narrowest parJs of (he lake 
 Erie ailuvsLil border. Ashtahnia eniess (lie lake obiiqiielj, 
 the river running (o tlse noi'(h west, leaving a hsgli sandy 
 point projecting between the river and lake. 
 
 Not Laving any particuiar object of detention, our ves- 
 sel left Ashiabnia at 3 o'eiock P. M. anti being detained by 
 a calm, did not reach the harbor of Erie before about sun - 
 i-ise on the 2SJii. I liasted on sh d long desired 
 
 to see that p!ace. 
 
 Tiie (own of Erie, formerly Piesque isle, stands at 42" 
 7' N. hit. 3" 7' W. long, fiorn Washington city. The 
 bank upon wiiich the (own is built, rests upon an immense 
 schistose mass of rock, surmounted by a stratum of clay, 
 rises in bli»fi* and bi'oken abruplnsss to the lieight of 30 or 
 40 feet, fi'oiu wiienee it spreads into a level plain, wilh no 
 gi'eat inelin.ition in any direction. A snsall drain v.hieh 
 traverses she town, iuis cut a deep ravine, which, near the 
 bay, exposes (he solid rock. The main street runs at nearly 
 righi angles to (he bay shore, a little N. E. of the ravine. 
 So much sameness prevails in all small towns, that little 
 description suffices to (hose w ho have seen but a few of such 
 places. Erie, like almost ail other villages, is composed in 
 great part by one usain street buiit along the principal road ; 
 Erie has, however, some cross streets, upon which are good 
 substantial buildings. The (ow n has a very neat appcaraiice, 
 many of the houses are elegant, witii trees planted in front. 
 I have seen very few places of its extent, vliieii exhihi(ed so 
 much of the air of a commercial depot. It is (he soa( of 
 justice for Erie coun(y, has a good subs(an(ial cour(-house 
 and i(s attendant a jail, many good slores and (averns, 
 blacksmi(irs, hatter's, shoe-maker's, and taylor's siiops. 
 
 Tlie bay or harbor of Erie is formed by (he shore, and a 
 long, narrow, low, sandy isthmus, which projects from it two 
 miles south-west from where the village now stands. To- 
 wards its termination the isthmus inclines a little towards the 
 main shore, giving an elliptical form to the bay. The bap 
 
lET. XVI. 
 
 ERIE. 
 
 211 
 
 runs out i'rom the isthmus some distance above the point, and 
 has bai'cly 7 feet water. The channe l is vert widding. uiili! 
 about half a mile below the town, where the wau-j' deepens 
 to Iwsntj' feet or more. No winds, excepi those from the 
 north-east could aiFect ships at anchor in (his f>ay, aiid even 
 from that quarter the swell would be broken on (ije bar. 
 On all sides it is cfTectually land locked. The isfbrnus is 
 not more than four or five feet ahove the waicr, is overgrown 
 wiJli cedar trees, and cranberry busbes. 
 
 In a cove of the isthmus now lie the hulks of Perrv's 
 squadron, and his captured British ships. The Lawrence and 
 Niagara now lie very (juiesij beside the Defroit, Queen 
 Charlotte, and Lady Frcvost. You are no doubt ucquaintcd 
 with the fact, that the strongest part of the squadron was 
 prepared at Erie, which produced this great national vic- 
 tory ; the Lav.rence and ]\'iagara were boils built here, and 
 were taken over the bar by a curious contrivance. Tho 
 captain of the schooner in which I came from Detroit, was 
 (iien (1813) a sinpwright, and assisted to (ransporl these ves- 
 sels into the lake, which, as he described the means and pro- 
 cess to i:ic, were the following : 'I'wo large flats or scows 
 fifty feet long, ten wide, and eight deep were prepared, laid 
 along side one of the vessels, filled with water, and fastened 
 to each other and to the vessel by large beams of hewn (ini- 
 ber run Ihrougii the port holes j then the water jHiiiiped 
 from the scows, which, as (liey became empty, buoyed up t!ie 
 vessel, and the whole machine rendered capable of passing 
 the bar. By good fortune, the Iirilish eidicr could not, or 
 they neglected to oppose this operation, and lost Ihe naval 
 superiority on lake Erie. The same fleet which conquered 
 Barclay's sq-iadron, carried general Harrison's army to the 
 city of Detroit, produced the re-conquest of Michigan, and 
 the chastisement on the Thames of the sanguinary and fe- 
 rocious Proctor. 
 
 A few hours enabled me to see Erie and its environs, and 
 to leave me at leisure to desire to be again oa loy way to- 
 
212 
 
 ALBANY. 
 
 [let. XV 1£. 
 
 wards BuiFii'to, whit'ii was (he case, at ;iliou{ an hour befoi'c 
 su!i-si!t of the same (lay Ave ariivfil. Nothing wot') h notice 
 intct vcniagiuiui l!ie morning oi.' (he 30th, (Sisn'hiy) I gUidly 
 found iDvseU'at Mr. Isaac Kibbc's tavern in ]5iili;iio. 
 
 One of the first pieces of news which reached mc on irsy 
 arrival, was. (hat the tahh' rock at Niagara had faHen a day 
 or two be!bre. 1'his was a projecting siielf of shiie rock on 
 the Canada side, where curious visitors went to view the 
 falls. The certainty of its stal)ility had been doubted for 
 some lime past, not without foundation it appears. Fortu- 
 nately it fell whilst no persons were upon it, i'or if such had 
 l)een the case, some amiable human beings would have been 
 plunged to swift destruction. 1 will be detained here a few 
 days, perhaps three or four. I intend to return by the Chcr- 
 I'v Yalley rowbi. Yuu will hear frou) lae again at Albany. 
 
 Adieu. 
 
 LETTEll XTII. 
 
 JLlhawj, Sepletiibcr in, iSiS- 
 
 Deau Si.i!, 
 
 AFTEii'a long journey of twenty-one days, I arrived 
 here the day before yesterday from BulFalo ; I left that 
 town on (he 27!h idt. and came by the route of Batavia, 
 Canandaigua, Gesieva, Auburn, Cazenovia, Cherry Valley, 
 and Schenectady. Over this tract as far as Geneva I had 
 been before, hat from that place to Schenectady, the inter- 
 
LET. XVI!.] 
 
 CASATlBAlGtA. 
 
 213 
 
 mediate eountfy was new to me, yfUh renewed pleiisure I 
 re-visited Canandiiigua, again revievvcd this exiiaordioiiry 
 production of a few years past. When passing tSiat village on 
 liiy way (o the ■vvcstwai'd, I had a letter fiOiu governor Clin- 
 ton to Mr. Gideon Granger, who was at that time absent. 
 At the time of my return I was more fortunate ; I found 
 Mr. Granger, and reooived from that cxeelient man a reeep- 
 tion that, to a sirangor, was slneereiy gratifying. Mr. 
 Granger's elegant mansion stands upon the higlicst part of 
 the plain, upon whieh Canandaitjiia is built, and adds cor- 
 biderabiy (o the decoration of that nneqijalled village. This 
 expression you may say is extravagant ; it is not, however, in- 
 atcurate. Viewed in all respects, I am persuaded that no 
 village in tiie United States can couipare in the beauty, va- 
 riety, and taste of its edifiees. The gentle slope of the 
 ground upon which it is erceted, eonlributes to give full eflect 
 to the perspective. The main sirect is wide, wilh paved 
 side walks, and planted with trees. Many of the houses are 
 seated at some eonsidrrable distance fi'om the street, with 
 wide, well shaded side walks in front. To my eye, this 
 Hiode of constructing dweiiings in towns, vilhigcs, and even 
 in cities, has a very pleasing appearance. It gives an air of 
 comfort and quiet — I'lat must always constitute much of the 
 satisfaction wc feel, when viewing the dwellings of man. 
 That of Mr. Granger, splendid as it is, gains another inler- 
 csi, more gratifying than the mere admiration of arehitcef- 
 ural magnificence ; the generous politeness of its owner, and 
 Use friendly deportment of his fansily. Princely wealth, is 
 here couibined wi(!i the warmest feelings of hospitality. It 
 is sucli men, who render (he possession of the gifts of for- 
 tune in their hands a public benefit. 
 
 I left Geneva on the afternoon of the lOtli, and proceeded 
 down the outlet of the Scneea lake. A water conimunica- 
 tion with lake Ontario now exists by this route. At Water- 
 loo, five miles from "Goaeva, the Seneca outlet is obstructed 
 by falls, or rather rapids, past whieh locks have been eon- 
 
CANANDAIGUA. 
 
 [let. XV I r. 
 
 structetl. Below (lie falls, Iho Senec;i oullt't runs iioi (h-cast 
 ten miles, and joins Cayuga oiiilct at the iower exireniily of 
 C'liyugii lake. Tiie united stream winds in a nortliern direc- 
 tion iivo miles, receives from the west the Cantindaigua out- 
 let.* At the jrmclion of fiiose streams it is inlended to pass 
 with the grand eana!. 'i'he eoiiniry near the outlet, between 
 Geneva and Cayuga, is not so uniformly level as I expeetcd 
 to find ; there is, however, no striking ohjecis of much inter- 
 est. Tiic road crosses tlic outlet of the ialls, and proceeds 
 
 * Facts are daily tj-anspiiine which tend to exhibit the rapid 
 improvenient of tills part of the state of New-York. The 
 Cauandaigua outlet, is like that of Seneca, precipitated over 
 ledges of rock. The following extract is inleresting, but by no 
 means sulBcienlly explicit. It is much to be desired, that those 
 who write on statistical subjects, would be more particular in de- 
 scribing local objects. It will be seen by referring to my letter 
 from Cauandaigua, that a considerable stream is formed by the 
 junction of Mud creek with the outlet of Canandaigua lake, thi.s 
 stream is now rendered of more importance by the removal, or 
 ratlier obviating an obstruction in its bed, in the township of 
 Galen, Seneca county. 
 
 FKOM THE WATEKI.OO GAZETTE. 
 
 "NEW LOCK NAVIGATION. 
 Mr. Leavenworth — It is with extreme satisfaction, that 
 throMgh the medium of your press, I can inform the public, that 
 on the 1 Sth ult. the first heavy laden boat passed the Lock, lately 
 constructed on the Clyde, near the new milling establishment of 
 the Messrs. De Zong, at the village of Clyde, in the township of 
 Galen. This valuable improvement completes an excellent Dur- 
 ham boat navigation, througli perhaps the most fertile sections of 
 Seneca and Ontario counties, for upwards of forty miles west from 
 the Seneca river ; and creates an eligible scitc for all kinds of 
 liydraulic operations, at a point where it has hitherto been con- 
 sidered utterly impracticable to raise a sufficient Iiead of water. 
 
 " Besides, it is not the least pleasing reflection, that in the 
 oomso of a very few years, this stream may become a most im- 
 portant link in the chain of our western inland state navigation, 
 
 '• Injustice to an undertaking of such raagifilnde and utility, I 
 am proud to acknowledge the. enterprize of the Messrs. De 
 Zong, advised and directed by the skill of tl\at able architect, and 
 miil-wright, Mr. James Valentine. Mav success reward their ef- 
 forts. "A SENECA FARMER." 
 
1,ET. XVH.] 
 
 FALI. CHEEK. 
 
 215 
 
 thence cast (o Caj uga briJge and villiige. This bridge is, 
 pecliaps, the lonjjest in the United States, situated at any eon- 
 sidei-:ibIo disfance IVom (he sea board ; it exceeds a mile by 
 a small fraction, is formed oF wood, upon a frame resting 
 upon (he bottom of tlic hike. The oudtrls of all the 
 chain of lakes, of which Caj'uga is one, have great sameness. 
 Cayuga is the longest, and no doubt contains more water 
 than any of tiie others ,• Seneca approaches nearest to it in 
 magnitude. 
 
 Fail creek rises in the township of Ilonicr, in Couriland 
 county, flows soufli into Virgil, turns to the west and enters 
 Di-yden, in Tompkins county, receives a large branch fron» 
 Locke, in Cayuga, then assuines a south-west course to 
 Ithaca, in Ulysses, where it receives a number of other 
 streams, and turning abruptly to (he north, suddenly ex- 
 pands info Cayuga lake, 'i'he sources of the Fall creek ase 
 very considerably liighcr tiian the lake into whieli (heir wa- 
 ters are discharged ;* this is (he case also, with ail the tribu- 
 
 * I have inserted the fo'lowing extract, as it illustrates the 
 structiire of the coiuifry, and opeiis to the curious traveller a 
 sourc;' of instruction and amusement. The scenery of our 
 coiiiitry has been too much neglected. Many very interesthig 
 objects in tlie best settled parts of the United States, are scarce- 
 ly known beyond the neighbourhood where they exist. 
 
 " Ithaca, {JS". ¥.) June 16. 
 " OUU CATARACT 
 "The nnraerous and magnificent cataracts in our conntr_v, 
 have been themes of wonder and delight, and are considered as 
 a peculiar feature in the physiology of the western part of this 
 state. Niagara has long been viewed as the greatest natural 
 wonder of the world — and for sublimity and grandeur is doubt- 
 less unrivalled. 
 
 " The falls of the Gene.<;ee, the Colioes, the current on the 
 Black river, have all been noticed by the traveller and jourxialist. 
 But the falls near this village, which next to the Niagara, do not 
 yield in point of sjblimily, beauty, and extent, to any in the; 
 state, are scarcely known out of their vicinity. Fall creek, on 
 which onr falls are situated, rises in tlie north east corner of this 
 county, and, after a course of twesity miles, empties into the h«arf. 
 
216 
 
 [let. xvir. 
 
 tarj waters of Ihe oliitu- lakes eonligsious to Cayuga. 'I'he 
 I'eiiilive size of Sonrca and Cuyu.^a lakes is not materially 
 (lifr«fe!it, the fonnei- is tliirfj-lliree and a half miles long, 
 from Saiubs-ia to Geneva, tiio flatter liiirly-five and a half, 
 from t!ie nioul'i of Fall creek to that of Seneca outlet ; the 
 widest part of each of these lakes is opposite Romulus, in 
 Seneca county, and is nearly etjiui!, three miles. Both 
 lakes diininisii very gradually towards their respective ex- 
 tremities. The advaiilage of tlicse lakes to the agriculture 
 and eommerce of the country in which they are situated is 
 inealeulable ; and when their outlets are improved in such 
 
 of Cayuga lake. When it arrives witliiji three miles of llie Cay- 
 uga lake, the chain of falls commences, and continues with lit- 
 tle interruption, about one mile and a liaiij when the water is pre- 
 cipitated over the last and grandest tiill, to a level with the lake. 
 The whole descent of watei' in this distance, has been estimated 
 at tlire?. hundred and fi fty feet. The view of tiie precipice from 
 the bridge at the foot of llie falls is the most grand and pictu- 
 resque I ever belield. The water falling nearly perpendicular, 
 from the height of about ninety feet- — the steep and craggy banks 
 towering to an almost equal height above, and crowned with 
 evergreens, give a wild and romantic effect to the scenery, une- 
 qualled by any thing that can be imagined. After clambering 
 up the rocky banks, another fall presents itself to view, of about 
 half the height — and ten or fifteen rods above this, tiic stream 
 pitches about forty feet, presenting the form of a half circle, in 
 its descent over the broken and craggy rocks, tumbling and foam- 
 ing with inconceivable velocity.'' 
 
 " Ithaca, Sett. 30. 
 " Census nf Ithaca. — A fi iend has favored us with a census of 
 tt)is vilage taken during the past week. By this it appears, that 
 the village contains a population of 611 persons, of which 313 
 are males, and 298 fenules — 185 are under the age often years ; 
 1 43 between ten and twenty ; 253 between 20 and 45 ; and thir- 
 teen only over forty-five. The buildings are 225 in number, com- 
 prising a cliurcb and court-house, 7! dwelling-houses, 4 inns, 19 
 stores, (2 vacant) 7 groceries, 28 mechanic's shops, S offices— 
 and out-houses to complete the estimate." 
 
 This is the clearest and most satisfactory, of all the recent 
 enumerations of the population of the villages in west Xew- 
 Tork. that T liave been able to procure. 
 
SET. XVII.J SJi.VECA ANB OSWEGO RIVERS. 
 
 S17 
 
 a manner as to admit an uninterrupted eommunieation with 
 Seneca river, and ultimately with the grand canal, the whole 
 will present a picture of convenience of intercourse, that 
 may ehulienge an ctjiial in any part of this earth, so far re- 
 moved froiii a sea coast. And as if nature intended to lav. 
 Jsh the rifhcst and most essential of her gifts upon this fa- 
 vored region, salt and gypsum abound. It would in fact be 
 a iedious and useless task, to enumerate a small part of the 
 ■various advantages possessed by the inhabitants of this sin- 
 gular country. I must draw your attention to some facts, 
 respecting the geology of the region waiei-ed by the Seneca 
 and Oswego rivers. The peculiar features of the former 
 stream, will best appear from inspection upon a gocd map. 
 You will perceive that it is foi'med in most part by the out- 
 lets which we have been noticing, and that its general course 
 is from west to east, at rigfit angles to these outlets and their 
 parent lakes. The lakes themselves occupy the base of very 
 deep valiies. On this latter circumstance I had, until liiis 
 period, very erroneous opinions. I hiwl conceived that 
 the spaces between the lakes were plains, or at least very 
 little elevated above the surface of the v\ater in the lakes; 
 I now find that so far from being plains, tbose intervals are 
 elevateil to an astonishing height, from which the streams 
 rush with an impetuosity in proportion to their rapid de- 
 scent. 
 
 Independent of the kng ricigcs which rise between the 
 lakes, another of more elevation winds between the waters 
 of Susquehanna river, and the streams which fiow northward 
 towards lake Ontario. In reality the latter ridge is the 
 spine of this country, from which tlie former diverge like the 
 ribs of an animals. The descent from the parent ridge is 
 very gradual to the southward, hut to the northward is 
 abrupt.* How far the peculiar features of the intermediata 
 country will contribute to faeilitate or impede the intended 
 
 * See page 136, note upon Iiitet-nal Improvements. 
 
 Q 
 
218 
 
 ABBUKN. 
 
 [let. XVII. 
 
 water cominuiiication between Susquehanna river and Sene- 
 ca lake, 1 am not prepared to decide. 
 
 I stopped on the morning of the 11th at Auburn. This 
 village has for many reasons become an object of considera- 
 ble attention. It stands upon the outlet of Owasco lake, in 
 the township of Aurclius in Seneca counfy, upon a l)oltom 
 or level piece of ground. The village of Auburn is more 
 recent than cither Geneva or Canandaigua, and in point of 
 population, 1 would suppose exceeds the former place.* 
 The country in the vicinity of Auburn seems to be well cul- 
 livated. The houses in the village are many of them w ell, 
 and some expensively built ; many good taverns and stores, 
 are interspersed amongst the other buildings. 
 
 The circumstance which contributes most to render Au- 
 burn an object of attention, is that of its being the site of 
 the second penitentiary erected ^Yithin the state of New- 
 
 " Miiirn, October 7. 
 
 * "The village of Auburn contains 2047 souls — 641 males, and 
 423 females — 466 males, and 443 females, under the age of eight- 
 een — free blacks, 35 males, and 29 females — slaves 8 males, and 
 2 females. Whole number of families 294. One Presbyterian 
 church, one Episcopal church, and a house ef public worship for 
 tlie Methodists, a court-house, a county clerk's ofBce, and state 
 prison. 211 dwelling'houses, 12 offices 23 stores, 2 market- 
 houses, 16 groceries, 74 mechanic's shops, 10 mills, 5 stills, and 
 164 out-houses, making an aggregate of 525 buildings. 
 
 " Among the 130 labourers on the state prison, 75 are suppos- 
 ed to be transient residents.* 
 
 " It is worthy of remark, that among a population of 2047, 
 two persons only were contiried to tlieir beds. 
 
 ! " This village contained, in April, 1817, a population of 1506> 
 increase in 17 months, 541." 
 
 The foregoing census is another instance of the want of pre- 
 cision in the most necessary details. I cannot avoid expressing 
 a iiope, that as public attention seems now turned upon such sub- 
 jects, that more perspicuity will be used than is now frequently 
 the case ; the true benefits of such publications must be lost, in 
 proportion as the subject-matter is unconnected, or inconclusive. 
 
 • We presume it will be understood, that tlie ;:ta''' r-^-^- ore not nur ' 
 
J.ET. XVlI.j SKENE ATElESi 219^ 
 
 York. I weH(, (ogctlicr v/lth some ofliei- travellers, to see 
 Shis house of piwiisliment, and foiinU it a large ohlong build- 
 ing, eaeloscd within a strong stone wall. AVe were conduct- 
 ed over (he building b^ the keeper. Every necessary' atteii- 
 tioB appears to be paid to the saleguard and health of the 
 f-'onvicls. I have a!wa;5s considered that the best lessons 
 sliHt the United States ever gave to the world, was upon the. 
 subject of crimes and punishments. 
 
 Between Auburn and the outlet of Skcneateles lake, the 
 country continued to present no very striking changes of 
 scenery, from that between Geneva and Auburn. At the 
 village of Skcneateles, the outlet leaves the lake, and eon- 
 Sinues to flow northward about fifteen miles, then falls info 
 Seneca river. After crossing the outlet I turned southward 
 up the luke. The Skcneateles is in form similar to those of 
 Seneca and Cayuga, but of much less extent than either of 
 J he latter, being fifteen miles in length, with a medial width 
 of less than one mile. 
 
 The space between Owasco and Skcneateles rises rapidly 
 fi'om eaeii lake, to a ridge of at least four hundred feet high, 
 mostly covered with an enormous forest ; some farms are 
 seen, but the greatest part of the surface is yet in woods. 
 East of the Skcneateles the country is more improved, but 
 also presents an immense and very much inclined plane, 
 rising gradually from the water. The road winds along 
 this slope, about half way from the lake to the apex of the 
 hills ; the farms have a curious aspect when viewed either 
 from above or below the road. The soil is good, but very 
 stony, and in many places must be inconvenient to cultivate, 
 from the very great steepness of its surface. The timber is 
 composed of hemlock, sugar tree, elm, several species of 
 hickory, and oak. The whole country is well supplied witli 
 excellent spring water. 
 
 The lower half of Skcneateles lake lies in Onondago 
 sounty, and the higher moify forms the demarkation be- 
 
220 
 
 €AZE.NOVIA. 
 
 [let. svii. 
 
 <neen (lie fownsliip of Sempronioiis, la Seiicca, and Spiif- 
 foi'iljiii Onosidago county. 
 
 I rcmaintu! the night of (he 1 tth near tlie lieiul of Skcne- 
 atcles, in Spafloi'd, am! on the inoi-ning of the I'idi set out. 
 crossing the country towards Otisco Jake, Ko roiuls are 
 yet lorsned in (his part of Onondago except the common 
 country roads. I traversed the ridge between the lakes, 
 and found it elevated to an astonishing lieight, when 
 eonlrasted with its repr( scntation upon a map. Farms clie- 
 quer the hill sides in their steepest parts, and spread along 
 the bottoms, in evcrj' direction. 'l"!ie settlements are less 
 frcqtient, and have the appearance of being much more re- 
 cently established, than (hose to (he northward near (he 
 great western turnpike. After clambering (he Skencateles 
 and another very high and steep ridge, I fonrtd myself upon 
 the Skencateles (tirnpike road about two miles above Otisco 
 lake. 1 found the turnpike leading eastward through (ho 
 south parts of Onondago and Sladison counties. 'i1ic coun- 
 try improved at every step, though continuing hilly and bro- 
 ken. The weather was dark and gloomy. I felt weary, 
 and for the first time I was seriously indisposed since my 
 leaving New-York. I got to my lodgings, near the church 
 of Cazenovia a little before sun-set, having travelled on foot 
 over a very rough country more than thirty miles. 
 
 Sept. l.)th. I found myself considerably refreshed and 
 renewed aiy journey eastward. The road passes along the 
 dividing ridge between the head waters of the Chenango 
 br-.mch of Susquelianna, and the Chitlinengo river flowing 
 north into the Oneida lake. 
 
 At Cazcnovia churth,* the character of the country is es- 
 
 * Strangers from the soiitlieni and western states are not uii- 
 frequciilly embarrassed when travelling in the state of New- 
 York, and to the eastward of that state, by the common custom 
 of naiDiug the villages from tlie lowr.ships in which they are 
 situated. This is tlic case witli Cazcnovia. , I did not personal- 
 ly visit the villiisre of tluit name, but passed througli the southern 
 part of the to-.vus'iip. The custom of publislung the progressive 
 
LilT. XVII.] 
 
 n.iMIlTON— liBOOlvFIELD. 
 
 22t 
 
 seniia]!y diffiM-cnt from (liat westward through which I liad 
 been ti-avrliing (he three preceding da.ys. 'J'he leguiar and 
 •aiinosf ariiilcial aspect of" (he hills and lakes from Geneva 
 (0 ()!iscoLike, gradually jielded (o a more irregular though 
 sliil broken country. WiUi the exception of some vallies, 
 vhieli I crossed at nearly right angles, 1 found no level 
 liound-y between Skcneateies and this city. Tlie many flats, 
 lie upon (lie head watei's of (he Chenango, but arc mere ho(. 
 (oins between surrounding hills;* the soil every where fer- 
 tile, and in many places well improved. 
 
 Advancing eastward (hrough llamiiton and Brookfield, 
 forming (he south-east angle of Madison county, the face of 
 <!ie country becomes exireinely hilly, rocky and generally of 
 secent soltlcment. I had (ravelled (hrough no part of the 
 stafe of New-York, where (he hand of man had made so 
 little change in (lie primitive rudeness of nature. The road 
 in (his (juar(er crosses (lie sources of Chenango and Una- 
 (lilla rivers; (he la((er forming the boundary between (he, 
 southeastern part of Madison and the northwestern of Otsc- 
 
 populatiou of our new settlements is laudable, but editors of 
 public prints ought to be careful to procure correct data on lliat 
 subject. I have in this treatise appended as notes, as many of 
 these enumerations as liave met my eye relating to places ujion. 
 or near the line of my route. 
 
 " CazeMovia. — The village of Cazenovia, in Madison county, 
 New-York, was first settled in May 1793.— -In 1806, it had 212 
 inhabitants— in 18 lO, 440 inhabitants — and it now contains 
 709 souls.— It has three chuiches, several manufactories, and 
 all the appendages of a thriving village." 
 
 * While the above notes were in the hands of my printer, I wag 
 told that a valley existed, out of which the waters of the Che- 
 nango flowed south, and those of Oneida north, without any ele- 
 vated intervening ground between the sources of these streams. 
 If this information is correct, it is of great importance, and may 
 ere long lead to the formation of another link in our interior 
 communication. A minute and skillful examination of the in- 
 terlocutory brandies of other streams, with those of the Susque- 
 lianna, is really an object of great import in the adjustment of 
 some of the most serious questions in our interiiat policy. 
 
%%% 
 
 €IlEK»ir TALXEI 
 
 go county. The road keepinj- so nesr a dividing l idge, pass- 
 es, 1 am inclined lo believe, Ihe least attractive parts of Ot- 
 sego, as from every infoniialion I received, the average im- 
 provement in this countj' would very much exeeed \vlsa« 
 Mould result fron» an estimate founded upon the part over 
 which I travelled. 
 
 Rising one hill afler another, I found myself at about four 
 miles west of Cherry Valky. where 1 spent )iienij;hi, ami 
 about two hours liefoi'c day on (he itth, resumed my joui ney. 
 During iny whole tour, (his was the only insiance in whieh 
 I (ravelled in the night ; the moon sliene very eleiir, snd ei- 
 ther from the elevalion of (he country or Ihe arivanee of iSnj 
 season, the air was keen and sharp, wish a white frost. I 
 walked on and passed Cherry Valley before day. I i pgrettejf 
 the'eircumstanec, but my mind became daily mow anxious 
 to regain my home. I could by (he clear moonligh( perecivo 
 (lie genera! aspect of (he place. The village is seated be- 
 tween the base of a high and very steep hill, and a sji^aU 
 creek, the, source of a considerable s(ream, from (henama 
 of which, that of the village is derived. I'hc hill, or raiher 
 mountain, rises east cf the village, and is a part of the same 
 chain which forms (he Little Falls in (he Mohawk river. Seen 
 hy day light, I have no doubt but (hat the vicinily of Cherry 
 Valley would have a wild and romantic appearance,- (o mj 
 eye it presented that contrast every where found in New- 
 York, in (he (owns and villages of ancient date | the 1»V 
 Dutch built mansion and the stately modern edij#| and al- 
 so like almost all towns laid out by the original settlers n,f 
 this state, the streets follow the inflections of the roads. Ir 
 opposition to common opinion, I have been led to consider 
 the right sngfed mode of laying out cilies as ineonvenient ami 
 unnatural, where neidier the varieties of the ground or fa- 
 cility of intercourse with contiguous places are consulted, 
 
 'I'lie road towards AShaiiy leaves Cherry Valley, winding 
 up (he s(eep ascent of the mountain, for two miles before it 
 attains the summit level. P ■• light brgan *o anpoav over (he 
 
J.ET. XVIl.J 
 
 nilJLS AND MOtlfTAINS. 
 
 223 
 
 verge of <hc iiigliest peaks, before I gained the extreme 
 lieiglit, and before reaching the opposite slope, (he sun had 
 l isen over (he valiey of the Mohawk. I'he morning was 
 rciiiarkiihlj clear, sind gave (o the perspec(ive all its extent. 
 The richly Ciiifivated vale lajr before me, scattered peaks of 
 the Cherry vaiicy mountain extended along my right, termi- 
 Ksited by the blue apex of (he Catsbergs, on my left as far as 
 the eje couhl reach, arose the broken fragments of the chain 
 (In oiigh which the Mohawk breaks at the Little Falls. Far 
 distant upon the disk of the horizon, arose (he elevated liills 
 ef Montgomery county, be(ween the Mohawk and Sacondago 
 rivers. To the eastward towards Schenectady, was spread 
 an endless variety of hill and dale; fields, meadows, orchards, 
 farm-houses, and copses of wood, varied to almost infinity, 
 by the charming irregularity of its features, I gazed upon 
 • his truly expansive prospeet, and pronounced it by far (he 
 finest landscape I had ever seen. There was an extent and 
 striking contrast of parts, that rendered the whole a picture 
 (hat must attract the entire a(tentiun of every beholder. The 
 soutiiern extremity of Herkimer and the southwest angle of 
 Montgomery are the points where the waters of the Susque- 
 hanna make the nearest approach (o (hose of the Mohawk. 
 In (he townships of Litchfield and Columbia, in the south- 
 west angle of Herkimer, the sources of the Unadilla river 
 rise within eight miles of the banks of (he Mohawk at the 
 German Flats. In the townships of Columbia and Warren, 
 are also the extreme north sources of the main branch of 
 the Susquehanna river, which rise within less than ten miles 
 of (he Mohawk at the Li(tle Falls. The chain of moun(ains 
 wliich passes Cherry Valley, and as I have observed forms the 
 Little Falls, leaves Otsego county in the township of Spring- 
 field, and enters Herkimer county dividing the township of 
 Warren from that of Danube. 
 
 I have observed in my Emigrant's Guide, page 190, that 
 hills and mountains are not only specifically but generically 
 distinct. It is commonly considered that mountains and bills 
 
M11/X.S AND MOCNTAISS. 
 
 [let. X?1X, 
 
 are mere rolaJive terms, but the philosophy of such an opin-' 
 ion is not founded in fact. In the United States instunees 
 are numerous where the chains of hiiis and mountains pass 
 each other at a great diversi(y of inclination. 1 iiave a!- 
 ready pointed out the rcniavkahle cliain of hilis whieh sepa- 
 rate the waters of 81. LawreKee from those of the Oiiio val- 
 ley. You will perceive, that the same ridge wlilah winds 
 along (he south shore of lake Erie, continues throiigli the 
 stale of New-York, by an inflected line. This ridge leaves 
 the state of Pennsylvania, in the nortSi-east part of Erie 
 county, and following nearly (he general eetirseof lake Erie^ 
 and wilhin five or sis niiles of the sliore of ihsit Itvke. winds 
 through Chatauque into Cattaraugus county ; then (urns 
 south-east about (wenly miles, reaches wilhin ten miles of (he 
 hank of Allegany river, at t!ie moulh of Liltle Vaiiey crefk. 
 Turning (o the norlh-easl, through the residue of CaKarau- 
 gus, the ridge enters Allegany eounty ; upon tlicwest bordeit" 
 of the latter county it assumes a soulh-east direclion, be- 
 tween (he waters of t!ie Genesee and Allegany rivers, enters 
 Pennsylvania in Potter coun(y, through which it curves, and 
 again enters the state of New-York, in the south-west angle 
 of Steuben county. It (hen pursues a north-west course, 
 again enters Allegany counly, turning by an ellipiiciil curve 
 returns into Steuhea eounty near Arkport, and iollowing a 
 north-east direction enters OnSario eounty in the township of 
 Spring^tatcr, but eurvca rapidly again into Steuben eoua(yj, 
 and winding through the latter to the south-east, enters Tioga 
 county discharging to tise soulh-west (heereeksof (he Conhoc- 
 ton branch of (he Susquehanna, and to the north-east streams 
 flowing into Canandalgua, Crooked, and Seneca lakes. Wind- 
 ing along the northern border of Tioga county, through (he 
 townships of Catherine, Cayuta, Danhy, and Caroline, at, 
 tains tlu; nortli-east extremity of the county, and turns (o (be 
 tiorth, forming the cast border of Tompkins, and the sonlh- 
 east of Cayuga, reaches (he head of Skencatelcs lake, in the 
 
iET. XT II.] 
 
 raVEKS AND MOCNTAIiVS, 
 
 225 
 
 noi'lh-wcst angle of Courlland county ; from (lie latter place 
 ihi' l iilge 'assumes a course east-north-east to the village of 
 Argos, in Madison county, where it attains its extreme north 
 point. From Argos the course of the ridge is nearly east, 
 to its intersection wifli the prolongation of the Catsbcrg^s 
 near the village of Cherry Valley. Uninterrupted by the 
 Catsbergs this remarkable ridge continues down the Mo- 
 hawk river, and is gradually lost between Schenectady and. 
 Albany. The Schoharie river is the only stream which 
 actually crosses the ridge in all its length. 
 
 It is really an object worthy of great attention, the uni- 
 form eharaeier of thiti singular spine south of lake Erie ; 
 where dividing the Mississippi waters from those of St. 
 Lawrence river j and where separating the numerous brnnch- 
 es of the Susquehanna from those of the Mohawk, its fea- 
 tuies have a striking similitude. Sloping imperceptibly to 
 the south, and faiUng abruptly to tb.e north, is ttse peculiar 
 trait in the natural history of this ridge, which will have the 
 greatest influence in the operations of human improvement. 
 .It maybe obssTvct! also as not the least wonderful trait of 
 this ridge, that it ionus a limit between that part of the con- 
 tinent of North America, remarkable for the magnitude 
 and abundance of its lakes, and that part as remarkable for 
 the almost total want of lakes. 
 
 Tiie Moliawk river flows along (he eastern part of the 
 ridge we are noticing, at a medium distance, above Schoha- 
 rie river, of from ten to twenty miles. Tlie natural struc- 
 ture of the Mohawk is little less peculiar than the ridge it- 
 self. OecU|)ying the narrow vale of two exhausted lakes, 
 this stream rises in the secondary region west of the granit- 
 ic ridges, which form the nueleous of the Allegany snoun- 
 tains, with its sources so nearly poised, as to lease the wa- 
 ters at liberty to flow either towards the Hudson or St. Law- 
 j-ence. Flowing from this table land with a very uniform 
 current; between perfectly alluvial banks, for thirty five 
 
236 
 
 ElVERS AKIl MOL'STAISS. 
 
 [bet. XVII, 
 
 miles, the Mohawk ineels its first considerable obslriielion, 
 by iiilorsecting the Calsborgs iit tlie place now called tlio 
 LIUIb Fiilis. Here (he stream pours over a ledge of priiDi- 
 tive rocks, and enters a re,;^ion whicli, in soil, tiiiibcr and 
 geological structure, differs very essenihilly from the coun- 
 try west of the C!itsl(cr,'^s ; the slreans, however, again iiows 
 with a very equabJo euricnt ahoiif sixty Uiiles, to the Co- 
 hocs Falls, over wliich ils water;, ai e literally plunged into 
 the Atlantic tides. You will perceive that the elevation of 
 the summit level of the Mohawk, south of the village ef 
 Some, following the report of the canal commissioners, page 
 S8, is above tide water in the Hudson river, liearTroy, with- 
 in a small fraction of 419 feet. Of this depression 132. S.t 
 feet, inchidirig (he Little Fails, are found between Rome and 
 Schoharie creek, and 286 feet hctwecn the latter stream and 
 the, level of Huflso!) river, below the head of tide water. 
 
 'I'he range of the Catshergs [jeing in some measure an 
 anofliaiy in our geography, has given rise to considerable 
 auihiguity in our maps, and are not strictly correct on any 
 {'(•presenlalion with which 1 am acquainted. 'I'he late ex- 
 cellent, and much to he !aiiienf(-d .John II. Eddy, left thi>t 
 part of his map of the slate of ]Vew-York unfi.iished at his 
 <iea(!i. I was employed by Mr. Thomas Eddy, to sketch 
 these mountains, which i (iid, folioning the best information 
 I could procure. 1 fovind the Daninsciis Hiouulain, in Wayne 
 county, Pennsylvania, marked upon Mr. Eddy's map ; but 
 to the east of (he Cachccton Falls, in the Delaware, the 
 map was a hhjnk. as rcsjjcols the very distinctive chain 
 which forurs those fails. 1 sketched tlie mountain ridge 
 v. iiich winds from the Cocheciion Fall, through Susquehan- 
 na and tlistcr, to the borders of Greene coimfy, in the 
 stale of Kew-Yoik, an<l which, in the lattci' county, rises 
 into tlib remarkable Catshergs, whose conic summits have 
 so fine an aspect, seen IVoai the Hudson river. 'Ilie center 
 of Greene county is formed by a curve of this chain, out of 
 which flow the sources of the Schoharie. Viewing a map 
 
lET. XVII.] 
 
 E.1YESS ASU MOBKTAISS. 
 
 227 
 
 of this part oF the state of New-Yorkj it would appear t!iat 
 the sources of the Seholiarie ouglit to flow inio tiifc Pajiac- 
 toti branch of the Delaware river j but afler pursuing a 
 north-west direetion, within <he cui ve of the iiiountains, (Le 
 various branches of Schoharie unite in the township of 
 Wiadliain, and eiitcring the souiherii tingle of Seholiario 
 eouiiij, pierees the Catsborgs, and assuming a northerly 
 course, crosses Seluuiarie arid part of Montgomery ccun- 
 fics, falls into the Mohawk river opposite Tripe's Lill. — 
 The origin and course of the Schoharie river, very re- 
 markably exeiiiplify t'le little inftuence of the moun- 
 tains of the United States upon the direction of the 
 streams. No pai t of the valley of the Schoharie is less 
 than 286 feet, and its sources are 2,800 or 3000 feet 
 'above tide water in Hudson river. The country watered by 
 this small but beautiful river, below its passage througl! llu! 
 Catshergs, is aasongst the most charming regions of lh« 
 United Stales. I passed througli (he townships of Canajo- 
 harie and CiiarlesSown, in Monlgomeiy, and Duanesburg 
 and Princeton, in Seiietieciady county, and found the country 
 on both sides of the road well cultivated, and estrenieSy 
 pleasing to the eye. If any part of this region deserves a 
 preference in soil, variety of site, and genera! iuiprovemcai, 
 it is that near the Schoharie river. 
 
 Entering Scisenecfady county, the country insensibly de!e- 
 fiorates both in soil and eultivatinji, and contrary to what 
 might be expeeled, the approach to Albany is over a tract of 
 land, in great pai t in a slate of nature, covered wi(h a for- 
 est of evergreen trees, growing in a loose, sandy soil. Nur- 
 iiian's Kill rises in Schenectady oouniy, and flowing soutii- 
 east falls info the Hudson river bela%? Albany, The country 
 watered by this creek is mostly broken, rocky, and along the, 
 stream often precipitous, giving to the traveller a striking 
 contrast to the fine region along the Mohawk. 
 
 Drenched by a heavy rain 1 arrived in Albany, Tuesday, 
 Sept, isth. 131 days from my departure fror" that city. I 
 
228 
 
 ALBANY. 
 
 [let. XVII. 
 
 have now, sti-icily speakini^', closed my lour the remaining 
 part of the dislani^e I have to pass over in oider to return 
 home, is too well known to you to render any farther ob- 
 servations necessary. You will see iiie in New-York in a 
 few days. I expce! to remain in this city three or four days, 
 in the mean (iiue 
 
 Adieu. 
 
ABBE NBA. 
 
 NO, i. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM BOUCIIETTE'S CANADA. 
 
 " IN forming thoplan of £!;ovcnimcut for Canada, the genera' 
 principles of die English constitution were introduced, wherever 
 it was practicable: in the Upper Province no impediments to 
 this course of proceeding were met with; but in the Lower one 
 some small deviations from them were found necessary, in order 
 to reconcile it to tlie genius of a people so long accustomed to a 
 different regime. The civil department is administered by a go- 
 vernor, who is generally a military oflicer and commander of the 
 forces, a lieutenant governor, an executive council, a legislative 
 council, and a house of assembly, or the representatives of the 
 people. The governor and lieutenant governor naturally ester- 
 ase their authority under the royal commission. The members of 
 the executive council, amounting to seventeen, derive their appoint- 
 ment from the king, and thisbody exercises a direction over the con- 
 cerns of the province, nearly similar to that of the pri\ y council 
 in the afiairs of England. The legislative council, by the act of 
 the constitution, consists of fifteen members, (although at present 
 that number is increased,) all of whom are appointed by man- 
 damus from the king, and may be termed the second estate of the 
 province; and, with the third branch or house of assembly, forms 
 the provincial parliament. The governor is invested with power 
 to prorogue, and in the exercise of his own discretion, to dissolve 
 
ii 
 
 EOuCtlETTE's CANADA. 
 
 [addenda no. I. 
 
 the parliament ; to give the roj'al assent or refusal to bills pnssed 
 by it, or to reserve thein in case of douht or diiRculty, until his 
 majesty's pleasure be known tliereor>. Such acts as receive the 
 governor's assent are usually put in immediate force, but be is 
 enjoined to have copies of them transmitted to England, that 
 f hey may receive the approbation of the king in council, and his 
 majesty has the right, with the advice of his council, to cancel 
 any act so passed by the provincial parliament within two years 
 from the date of its arrival in England; but hitherto its wisdom 
 lias been so well directed, in the arduous task of legislating, that 
 there is no instance on record, of this prerogative ever having 
 been exercised. The acts that emanate from the provincial par- 
 liament, are all of a local nature, such, for instance, as provid- 
 ing for the internal regulation of the country, through the vari - 
 ous departments; for its defence, as far as relates to enrolling 
 and embodying the mihtia ; and imposing taxes for raising the 
 necessary supplies, to defray the expences of government. But 
 any acts, having for their ohject the alteration, or repeal of any 
 laws existing antecedent to the constitution granted in I79I ; the 
 titlies ; grants of land for the maintenance of the Protestant 
 clergy ; the rights of presentation to rectories, or the endownienls 
 of parsonages ; whatever relates to the exercise of religious 
 worship, or disqualification of religious tenets ; the rights of the 
 clergy; to changes or modifications of the discipline of the 
 church of England; or of the royal prerogative on the subject 
 of waste crown lands, must, after having passed the provincial 
 parliament, be submitted to the Bi itish parliament, and receive 
 tlie royal assent before tiiey can pass into laws. The house of 
 assembly is composed of fifiy-two members, and is a model, on 
 a sBiall scale, of th.e house of con>;Tions of the imperial parlia- 
 ment ; the representatives are extensive proprietors of land, and 
 are elected for the districts and comities, by the votes of persons 
 beir^ actual possessors of landed property, of at least forty shil- 
 ling? clear annual value : for the city of Quebec and the towns, 
 they are chosen by voters, who must be possessed of a dwelling- 
 house and piece of ground, of not loss annual value than five 
 pounds sterling, or else have been domiciliated in the place for 
 one year previous to the writ of summons issuing, and have paid 
 one year's rent, not under ten pounds sterling, for a house or 
 
ADDENDA NO. I.J BOUCHETTe's CANADA. .U 
 
 lodging. Tliere exists no disqualification either for the electors 
 or elected on account of religious tenets, for, in this country, 
 where toleration reigns in its plenitude, every one, whatever 
 may be his faith, is eligible to fill any office or employ, provided 
 the other qualifications required by law are net wanting. Tlie 
 sittings of the house begin in Jauuarj', and all the public and 
 private business is usually gone through by the latter end of 
 March, about which time it is prorogued, so that the session ne- 
 ver exceeds tiie terra of three months, between January and 
 April. Should parliament not be dissolved by the governor, a 
 circumstance that, indeed, very seldom occurs, its duration is li- 
 mited by the act of the constitution to the period of four years, 
 when its functions expire, and writs are immediately i.ssued for 
 the election of another. At such a crisis the independence and 
 energy of the various voters, the profes.sions and humility of the 
 candidates, are as strikingly pourtraycd as in the more turbulent 
 contests, that take place on similar occasions in the country. 
 
 " The criminal code of the United Kingdom extends to Canada, 
 and is carried into effect without the slightest variation. For the 
 administration of civil justice, there is a court of appeal, in which 
 the governor presides, assisted by the lieutenant governor, not 
 less than five members of the executive council, and such of the 
 principal law officers, as have not had cognizance of the previ- 
 ous trial; against the decisions of this court, as a final resource, 
 an appeal may be made to the king in council. A court of king'.s 
 bench, a court of common pleas, with each a cliief justice, and 
 three puisne jndges. Quarter sessions of the peace held four 
 times a J'oar, besides a police and subordinate magistiature for 
 determining affairs of minor importance. 
 
 " By far the largest portion of irdiabilanls* are descended from 
 French ancestois, the reader will readily surmise that th.e pre- 
 vailing religion is Roman Catholic; of this persuasion, iSiere is a 
 ISishop of Quebec, a coadjutor with the title of BisJiop of Salde, 
 nine Vicars Cieneral, and about two liundred curates, and mis- 
 sionaries spread over the different districts of the province, by 
 whom the tenets of their religion are inculcated with assiduity 
 
 * Only correct as respects Lower Canada, the fact is the con- 
 trary in the C ppcr Piovince. 
 
iv BOLTHETTE's CANADA. [ADnKNDA NO. T. 
 
 and devolion, but little tinctured witli bigptrjl' or imtoleranco, un- 
 happily so frequently cliaracteri.stic of llic same fiiith in tlie old 
 
 . .world. Exercising their sacred functions under the auspices of a 
 Protestant government, they feel the value of mildness in their 
 own conduct, and strenuously endeavor to repay its protecting 
 power by a zealous performance of their duties, and by instilling 
 into the minds of their flock, a grateful obedience to the laws, 
 with a reverence for the constitution, as well as tlie obligations 
 imposed upon them in their character of good citizens. They 
 are also chiefly erapjoyed in the important cares of education, of 
 which they acquit tliemselves in a manner tliat reflects the higli- 
 est credit lipon their exertions. To this fact the seminaries of 
 Quebec and Montreal, and the college of Nicolet, bear a power- 
 ful testimony. Tn these establishments, where th.e high.er and 
 inorq abstruse sciences yield to those of more extended and pri- 
 mary uliiity ; professors are employed to teacli the various bran- 
 ches of the classics, matliem.atics, and belles-lettres, wh.ose learn- 
 ing would acquire tlicni reputation in any country. In conmui- 
 nicatip.g their instructions, the French idiom is in general use, but 
 in the college tiiere is a professor of the English tongue, an exam- 
 ple worthy of being followed by the two former, as this language 
 
 .now becomes an essential part of youtliful studies. The reve- 
 nues of the Catholic clergy are derived from gi ants of land made 
 to them under the ancient regime, and the usual contributions 
 ordained by their ecclesiastical government, which arc, perhaps, 
 raore cheerfully paid by the Canadians, and collected in a raan- 
 sier nnich freer from vexatious exactions than in any countrv 
 whatever- 
 
 '•' The spiritual concerns of the Protestant pait of the comnui- 
 nity are under the guidance of t!ie Lord Bishop of Quebec, nine 
 rectors, and a competent number of otlier clergyn)en, who are 
 supported by annual stipends from the government, by the ap- 
 proj|riation of all granted lands as provided for in the act of the 
 constitution, and the other sources of revenue peculiar to the 
 church of England. In a degree of n\pderate affluence, exempt 
 on the one hand from inordinate improm-iation, and on the other 
 from penurious parsimony ; thereby givirig to the clerical order, 
 the degree of consequence in the superior ranks of sodety that is 
 due to its ministry. 
 
AaOENDA NO. I.] BOUCHETTE's CANADA. 
 
 V 
 
 " III tlie unreistraiiied exercise of two systems of divine worsliip 
 s<j widely diffei-iiig in their tenets, it is a pleasing fact, that the 
 •discipline of the two churches never encounters the stfiallest ob- 
 sli'ijctjon from each other ; ou the contrary, the greafest good- 
 wilfaiid iiarniony is oisserved to pievail, as well between the pas- 
 tors, as the flocks committed to their charge. 
 
 " For the defence of the two Canadas, a regular military esta; 
 blishraent is iiiaintained by the British government, wliich, in 
 time .of peace, may amount to about six or seven thousand men, 
 including artillery, engineers, commissariat, &g. 13ut when we 
 are at war with the United States, this force is increased as tlie 
 pressure of drcunistances deiDands ; and at this period, (18 15) 
 I may venture to coijipute it, although without official documents 
 lo fix the the precise numerical strength, at from twenty-seven to 
 ihirty thousand men in both provinces. In aid of the regular 
 troops, and in order that, under any exigency, the goyernBjent 
 may be enabled lo bring a suflicient fui-ce into the field, the low- 
 er province is apportioned into lifty-tvvo divisions, wherein all 
 males from fifteen to sixty years of age, are bound by law to en- 
 roll theii' names evejy year, with the captains of companies ap- 
 jjointcd for their parish, within the month of April. After the 
 cnrohnent is completed, they are mustered four times in a year, 
 either on Sundays or holidays, when they are instructed in as 
 much of the rudiments of military exercise as the occasion vyill 
 allow ; besides these foijr nsuster days, they a.re once in each 
 year, reviewed by the commander in chief, or the officer con>» 
 snanding the division. This is denomhiated the sedentary mili 
 lia; and jis the average strength of each division so enroUetv 
 uiay be computed about a thousand, it makes the aggregate 
 -amount upwards of 52,000 men.''* The incorporated militia, by 
 an act passed in the provincial parliament on the 19th of May 
 1812, is fixed during tlie wai', at two thousand men ; but by virtuff 
 of authority vested in the governor, it is at present increased to 
 five battalions, or nearly double the number, which, on the re-es- 
 tablishraent of peace with the United States, will be Reduced to 
 the standard named in tlie act. This body is chosen by ballof: 
 from the unmarried men of the sedentary militia; its term 
 
 f Sn the Lower Provintje only. 
 
BOnCHETTE's CASAdA. 
 
 [addenda KO. I, 
 
 service is two years. It is also provided that one half of each 
 regiment may be discharged annually, and the vacancies filled 
 up by a fresh ballot ; a plan that will have the good effect of ex- 
 tending gradually a certain degree of military discipline over the 
 greater part of the population capable of bearing arms. The 
 battalions thus formed of single men, renders the military ser- 
 vice less obnoxious to the individual, and less expensive to the 
 State, by saving the provision otherwise necessary to be made for 
 wives and children of militiamen actually embodied. By the 
 same act, the sum of twelve thousand pownds annually is laised 
 for the maintenance of this constitutional force. The incorpo- 
 rated militia is well equipped and in a state of discipline that 
 merits the highest commendations, by which it has been able to 
 brigade with the regular troops during the existing contest, and 
 to take so distinguished a part in some of the actions fought, that 
 it must press upon the consideration of government, a firm reli- 
 ance upon its future exertions, and devotedness in the cause of 
 its country. 
 
 " In the Upper Province, the same system, with some tiifling 
 inodifieation, prevails, but from the more scanty population the 
 force is proportionably much less ; however, the militia of Upper 
 Canada liad its fall share of the hardships of the war, as well as 
 many opportunities of distinguishing itself in presence of the ene- 
 my ; and the real magnitude of its service may be estimated, 
 when it is considered, tliat, by availing himself of it, the gover- 
 nor general, Sir George Prevost, was enabled with a number of 
 troops of the line, inadequate according to usual military calcu- 
 lations, not only to repel every attempt of the American com- 
 manders to invade the British territory, in the years 1813 and 
 1814, but to overwhelm the assailants with defeats, that for a long 
 time will leave an indelible stain upon their military reputa- 
 tioi»." 
 
 Geographical Description of the Province of Lower Canada, 
 with remarks upon Upper Canada. — London^ 1815. By 
 Joseph BoucHETTE. Page 15 — 24.] . 
 
AUDENDA NO. I.] 
 
 BOUCHETTE's CANADA, 
 
 " AMERICA possesses a climate peculiar to itself; the quantity 
 and preva!e:ice of licat and cold, seems to be goveiiied by laws 
 iuaterially differing from those tliat regulate the temperature of 
 other parts of the earth. It is certain that a person would be 
 snaterially led astra)', were he to form an opinion of the tempe- 
 rature of Canada from the analogy of local situation ; it lies, for 
 instance, in ih-e same parallel of latitude as France, but instead 
 of exhaling the exquisite fragrance of flowers, and ripening de- 
 licate fruits, delicious excellence, as is the case in that country, 
 its surface is covered with accumulated snows for nearly one Jialf 
 of liie year, and vegetation is suspended for nearly the same 
 period by contiiiiied frost. Yet this circumstance is unattended 
 with so mucit rigor as any one would be disposed to suspect, and 
 siotwithstanding the apparent severity, Canada enjoys a climate 
 that is congenial to health in an eminent degree, and highly con- 
 duces to fertilize its soil. Heat and cold are certainly to ex- 
 tremes : the latter botli for duration and intensity by far the most 
 predominant, ts supposed to derive much of its force, from the fol- 
 lowing cause, vis. the land stretches from the St, Lawrence to- 
 wards the north pole, which it approaciies much nearer to, and 
 with a less intervention of sea, than that on the old continent; 
 it expands also an immense distance to the westward ; therefoi'C, 
 ihe winds between the north-east and north-west passing over a 
 less surface of water than in the same portion of the other he- 
 misphere, are consequently divested of a similar quantity of their 
 intense frigor, and afterwards sweeping across the immense chaiij. 
 of mountains, covered with perpetual snows and ice that intersects 
 tlie wiiole of these cheerless regions, they acquire a penetrating 
 severity, by traversing so vast a tract of frozen ground, that even 
 iheir progress into lower latitudes, cannot disarm them of. Of 
 these winds the north-west is the most rigorous ;* and even ia 
 summer, as soon as it prevails, the transition from heat to cold is 
 so sudden, that the thermometer has been known to fall nearly 
 shirty degrees in a very few hours. The highest range of the 
 
 * This is also the case in all parts of North America, east of 
 the Chippewan mountains; the frigid influence of the north-west 
 current of air is severely felt upon the shores of the gulf of Mexi» 
 CO. Upon the Atlantic slope, east of the Allegany chain, tlie 
 winds from the northwest are pecnliarly piercingly cold, 
 
viii 
 
 BOL'CHETTis's CANADA. 
 
 [addenda no. i. 
 
 summei' heat, is usually bet%veen 96 and 102 degrees of Faliren- 
 lieit ;* but an atmosphere particularly pure, abates the oppressive 
 fervor felt in other parts at the same point. In winter the mer- 
 cury sometimes sinks to 31 degrees below zero, but this must be 
 considered its very greatest depression, and as happening only 
 once or twice in a season, or perhaps not more than thrice in 
 two seasons, and then its continuance I'arely exceeds forty-eight 
 hours ; but the general range of cold in medium years, may be 
 estimated from twenty degrees above, to twenty-five degrees be- 
 low zero. The frost which is seldom interrupted during the win- 
 ter, is almost always accompanied with a cloudless sky, and pure 
 dry air that makes it both pleasant and healthy, and considera- 
 bly diminishes the piercing quality it possesses when the atmos- 
 phere is loaded with vapours. At the eastern extremity of the 
 province, from its vicinity to the sea, fogs are brought on by an 
 easterly w ind, but to the westward they seldom prevail, and even 
 at Quebec are almost unknown. The snow usually lies on the 
 ground until the latter end of April, when it is melted by the 
 powerful rays of the sun, rather than dissolved by the progress of 
 thaw, the air still contijiuing pure and frosty ; when it has disap- 
 peared, the spring may be said to commence ; and as the ground 
 being protected by so thick a covering during winter, is seldom 
 frozen many inches deep, the powers of vegetation almost imme- 
 diately resume their activity, and bring on the fine sea- 
 son, that would excite in a stranger to the country the 
 greatest degree of astonishment. Rain prevails most in the 
 spring and fall of the year,f but is seldoni violent or 
 
 * If the thermometer of Fahrenheit ranges in Canada, in 
 .snmver, between 96 and 102, the intensity of Canadian heat is 
 greater than in Louisiana ; I never was made acquainted with a 
 liigher'range of the thermometer in NevAOrleans, when proper- 
 ly placed, than 94». 
 
 t Taken in the sense understood by Mr. Boucliette, when he 
 wi ote the above expression, the same observation would apply 
 ■with equal force t(» all those parts of Nortii America, included in 
 tlie Cana.das and United States. But, in reality, the rainy season 
 of all these vast regions actually commences about the beginning 
 of November, and continues until the latter end of April. Snow 
 is only water in a state of congelation; and iu fact that element 
 falls from the clouds in all states, between complete fluidity, to 
 that of the most solid ice. It is therefore, iinlbunded in princi- 
 
iul;^NDA NO. i.J 
 
 BOUCHETTe's CANADA, 
 
 of long duration in the level parts of the province. Towards tlie 
 nioLintaiiis, however, their frequency, and duration are both in- 
 creased. Borderiog on tiie gulf of St. Lawrence, as the face of 
 the .soil is rugged and mountainous, the climate somewhat influ- 
 enced thereby, participates in its ungenial nature ; but advanc- 
 ing to the westward, it beconses more mild, and encourages the 
 resumption of agricultural labours at a much earlier period, par- 
 ticularly in the western district of the Lower, and all the settled 
 parts of the Upper Fiovince ; at Montreal, for instance, only 79 
 geographical miles southward^ and 145 miles due west from the 
 meridian of Quebec, the spring is reckoned to commence from 
 five to six weeks earlier than at the latter place. Vegetation is 
 proportionately more luxuriant and vigorous, producing crops of 
 greater increase, by seldom experiencing checks in their early- 
 stages from the hoar frost, so injurious to the rising growth wherc- 
 cver it prevails. In a comparison between the climates of Great 
 Britain and the Canadas, some advantages result to the latter, be- 
 cause the prevalence of fine clear weather, and a pure atmos- 
 phere greal!y exceeds that in the former; besides, the degree of 
 cold is proved by actual experiment, not to be proportionate to the 
 indication of the thermometer; as a corroborating instance, it is 
 remarked, at its utmost severity^ which is in the months of Janu- 
 ary and February^ the labour of artisans in out-door employments 
 is rarely suspended many days in succession. 
 
 " From the climate of a country, its soil comes under notice 
 \ty a sort of natural transition. On making a calculation of the 
 superficial contents of tb.e area, enclosed between the two 
 principal ranges of mountains bclbrc spoken of, about 16, 
 028,000 square acres may be computed, to include the great- 
 er part of tlie land in the Lower Province yet surveyed, that 
 is capable of being turned to any favorable account in an 
 Agricultural point of view. lu so great an extent, undoubt- 
 edly every gradation of qualify, between very bad and very 
 good is to be found; but it would be attended with some dif- 
 
 ples of true meteoiological philosophy to call spring and autumn 
 our rainy seasons. I)i all places where winter is of sufficient 
 length and fi igidity to permit considerable accumulation of snow, 
 the spring floods in rivers, owe their augmentation, more to the 
 ■ melting of that meteor, than to the rain that fails during the ris© 
 of the waters. 
 
 E 2 
 
S BOtCHETTE's CAXADA. [ADDERDA NO. t,. 
 
 ficulty, to state *ith tolerable correctness tlie relative proporlioH 
 of each kind. Sensible tliat, in thus generalizing the whole, only 
 an imperfect sketch can be given, it is my intention tliat as much 
 care as possible shall be used to render the subject more clear and 
 familiar, when treating the different districts and divisions topo- 
 graphicallj-. For the present then, it may suffice to say, thaty 
 ■tvith respect to goodness, She eastern parts are inferior to the 
 western, being of a more irregular and uneven surface, in many 
 places consisting of a light soil, of a .sa)uiy nature, laid upon a 
 stratum of perfect sand or gravel, in others is is varied with mix- 
 tures of clay, loam, and sometimes a good vegetable mould iipos^ 
 a reddish argillaceous bottom, constituting amedruni between tiio 
 two extremes ; this latter species is rather supposed to exceed tli* 
 inferior clas.ses iti quantity, and with a moderate degree of care- 
 ful husbandry will j'ieid the farmer pretty fair return.?. In the 
 western part of the province, althougli the variety is nearly aS 
 great as in the oilier, in its nature h is very superior ; the sort 
 most esteemed, is a cotiposition of fine rich loams, both a yelloife 
 and bluish colour, with a good black earth, forming a soil, that iri 
 the country is supposed to be endued with the greatest share of 
 fertilizing properties of any of the natural classes; and of t]ii5 
 sort consists the chief portion of land in the western division ; the 
 remaining part is always above mediocrity; in fact, it may he 
 fairly asserted, that through the whole of Nortii America, and in- 
 deed in many other countries, it will be difficult to meet with land 
 more inviting to form new settlements upon, cr where it is alrea- 
 dy cultivated, capable of being made more generos:,? and prodiic- 
 {\ve, by the introduction of an improved system of liHsba!idr_v. 
 Its superiority over the contiguous districts of the United States 
 is fully manifest, by the readiness with which American families 
 in considerable numbers, have for years past, abandoned the less 
 fertile field."! of their nafivit)', to settle upon a soil that tliey are 
 certain will abundantly repay the industry and art bestowed upon 
 it. Undoubtedly the burthen of the taxes and peculiar laws wili 
 have had some share in causing these migrations acjoss the bor- 
 ders, into a country wh'ere neither would be felt. But be this aS 
 it may, many farmers thus changing the scene of their laboujs, 
 have, either by puichase or by lea.";c, obtained extensive estates 
 tuid eiidenizened themselves under the British governracDt ; whilst- 
 
ADDENDA NO. I.] 
 
 BOaCHETTE's CANADA. 
 
 Others, as eager to enjoy the same advantages, but less honest in 
 their manner of obtaining them, have selected convenient situa- 
 tions among (he reserved lands, wherein they have unceremoni- 
 ously domiciliated without license or title ; and even without the 
 acknowledgement of rent, have continued to cultivate and ha- 
 prove their favorite spots thus chosen.* 
 
 This species of tenure certainly ought not to be allowed by 
 the crown, and means should undoubtedly be taken to eject such 
 tenants, because their prior occupancy, the irregularity of its be- 
 ing generally unknown, deprives tiie natural subject of taking the 
 lots upon the terms before recited. It is also desirable not to 
 permit the pernicious example of such unauthorised possession of 
 valuable property to communicate its influence, or, indeed, to ex- 
 ist at all. It is much to be wished, that the system of manage- 
 ment in Lower Canada was as good as the land, upon which it is 
 exercised ; agricultural riches would then flow in a copious and 
 inexhaustible stream ; for if the natural excellence of soil and 
 goodness of climate, contending against the disadvantages of a 
 very inferior, not to say bad mode of husbandry, be capable of 
 
 * How far a disaffected citizen of the United States, is qualifi- 
 ed to make a good British subject in Canada, I am unable to de- 
 termine. "Where Mr. Bouchette is uninfluenced by national or 
 political prejudices, he is a respectable writer; but when descant- 
 ing upon any subject relating to the United States, he evinces 
 more than the mere partiality of an Englishman. My opinion 
 has been given in the text, that in no part of his Britannic ma- 
 jesty's dominions, except India, are to be found so many persons 
 in proportion to given numbers, averse to the people and govern- 
 ment of the United States, as in the two Canadas, New-Bruns- 
 wick, and Nova Scotia. Great moral change in public feeling 
 must take place, before the inhabitants of these provinces can 
 rehsh our institutions. Wise and reflecting men in the British 
 Nortli American possessions, would, to avoid a frequent recurring 
 border warfare, an evil they have experienced, consent if all cir- 
 cumstances were favorable to a separation from Great Britain ; 
 but would very reluctantly be amalgamated into the Union of the 
 States. Indeed without violent and repeated infractions upon 
 their personal rights, the people of Canada will long remain as 
 they now are, sincerely attached to the government of the parent 
 state. It was such infractions pertinaciously continued, that 
 produced the United States; let England profit by the folly and 
 crimes of her former rulers. 
 
BOUCHETTb's CANADA, 
 
 yielding crops of 15 to 18 to one, wJiat might not be expected 
 from it, were the modern improvemeiit in implements as well as 
 culture, that have been introducefi vdth so ruHch benefit in Eng- 
 land, to be applied to it ? The Canadian farmer anfortusateiyj 
 and it is ia subject much to be lamented, has hitherto had no 
 means of acquiring instruction, jii the manj' new and beneficial 
 methods, by which modern science has so greatly assisted the la- 
 bors of the husbandman. Unskilled in any otlier mode, he con- 
 tinues to till his fields by the same rule that his forefathers follow- 
 ed for many generations, -which long habit and an unprofilable 
 partiality engrafted thereon, Seenis So have endeared to him ; 
 knowing the tiatiiral bounty of his land, he places his greatest re- 
 Hance upon it, and feels satisfied wheji he reaps a crop not infe- 
 rior to that of the year gone by, apparently W'ithout a wish (o in- 
 crease his stores by the adoption of untried tBeans. Apprehen- 
 sions of failure and consequent loss, operate more strongly than 
 disinclination,, for a desire to enlarge his pi-ofitsis full as lively in 
 liiiB as in other men, which, aided by a genius active iii imitating^ 
 would certainly impel him to try his success at any innovation, 
 pi-bductive of corresponding advantages, that snight be iiitroduc- 
 ed by another. Exatnple is the only stimulus required, Jind if is 
 ivell worth the attention of those to whom the welfare of the Bri- 
 tish colonies is contidcd, and who must be sensible of the import- 
 ance of this one in pai'ticular, to consider of means by which this 
 stiimilus could be most effectually excited. Whatever encourage- 
 feferit tnight be given as an incentive to the industry of l!;c native,: 
 or i!)'e alien settler, to persevere in an approved plan of clearing, 
 draining, and getting under cultivatiotj the new lands, or of im- 
 provement upon such Ss are ah-eady under management, by a le- 
 form of the present system, a judicious v.ariation of crops, ansi 
 the introduction of new articles suitable to the climate, of whicli 
 there are many, would be attended with so inuch benefit that in a 
 t'ery few years these provinces must become one of the most va- 
 luable of all the exlo ior possessions of Great Britain. 
 
 The practice of husbandi y in Cahada is defective in some 
 very principal points: in the first place the use of the plough, 
 ■which ought to be viewed as the base of ail agrarian improve- 
 ment, is not enough attended to, and where it is applied, it i.«; 
 done in a manner so inadequate to the purpose, that the good iu-j 
 
AfiDENDA SO. I.] EOUCHETTE'S CANADA, xiu 
 
 tended to be derived from it, is powerfully counteracted ; gcneral- 
 iy speaking, this operation is performed so lightly, tliat scarcely 
 Jnore than the surface of the ground is broken by it ; the weeds 
 lhat ought to be extirpated are only cut off^ tliey consequently 
 shoot out again and absorb much of the vigor of the soil, lhat 
 otherwise would nourish the seed and plants committed to it. If 
 the Canadian husbandman could witness the difference between 
 the style of ploughing in England and his own, I am certain that 
 he would readily be convinced of its utility, and willing to adopt 
 a method so much in favor of his autumnal expectations. Ano- 
 ther main object in farming improvements, is, the judicious ap- 
 jlilication of the various manures to different soils, in which es- 
 sential particular it must be admitted the Canadian practice is 
 much in arrear, as it is only within a few years, and in tiie neigl:- 
 bourhood of the large towns, that it has in some degree been at- 
 tended to by a few farmers more intelligent than their brethren ; 
 this neglect, added to the pernicious practice of'sowing the same 
 sort of grain year after 5'ear, upon tlie .same land, without other 
 means of renovation than letting it lie fallow for a season, must 
 excite wonder lhat it should produce stich crops as it actually 
 does. When the h.eart of the land is supposed to be gone, or 
 greatly detei iorated, the remedy is, after taking a crop of wheat 
 IVom it, to allow a natnral layer of clover and grass, which serves 
 as summer feed for cattle. In aulwmn it receives a ploughing in 
 the usual wa,y, and in the ensuing spring is again put under wheat 
 p-r oats. This plan is unprofitable and injudicious, the stock de- 
 rives but little advantage from tire herbage, while with a little 
 more care the grounds might be turned to much heller account. 
 The introduction of different kinds of grasses and other succu- 
 lents, re(;ulated by a moderate degree* of skill, could not fail be- 
 ing attended with complete success. ?\niong t!:e various s<'rts, 
 the EngHsh red, and Dutch white clover are worthy of notice, 
 being calculated as well for summer feed as excellent winter sfore. 
 To the.se might be added the yellow Swedish turnip, a .species per- 
 liaps superior to any other of its clas.*;, as it will endure llie most 
 violent frost, and maintains its goodness until the spring, as well 
 as in autumn : that the acquisition of such a plant to a country 
 always subject to a teng winter would soon become \ aluahie, does 
 not admit of a question. .It is entitled to th'c larnier's alterilion, 
 
-^'^* EOUC'HETTe's CANACA. [aDOJEXDA NCJ. I'i 
 
 as being a profitabfe article; from 20 to 25 tons per acre may be 
 raised by careful management, which if housed before winter sets 
 in, would furnish an undeniable food for cattle during that season ; 
 by its means he would obtain a beneficial employment in fatten- 
 ing his stock intended for market, and also a large quantity of va- 
 luable manure from his farm-yard, ready to be applied to the 
 poor and exhausted lands at the breaking up of the frost. Many 
 other advantages would be tlie result, if a systematic arrange- 
 ment in the change of crops were to take place of the undeviat- 
 ing practice at present existing; by it a great progress would be 
 made in the science of agriculture, and a long catalogue of he- 
 reditary errors, vaiuld no more remain unopposed by any radical 
 improvement. I must again repeat, that example only is wantinj^ 
 to induce the Canadian farmers to explode the unproductive me- 
 thods they have so long followed, and yield to the admission of 
 profitable innovations. There is yet another article or two of 
 culture of the very first importance to the mother country, which 
 would most certainly prove highly beneficial to these provinces if 
 sufficient attention were to be paid to them. The first of these 
 is hemp, well known to be a native plant of the country, with 
 climate and soil peculiarly well adapted to its growth; in small 
 quantities it has been raised on many farms, though as an object 
 of commerce, the cultivation of it has not been attended with 
 success, notwithstanding it has been tried under the sanction of 
 government, that held out the encouragement of premiums, with 
 tlic additional inducement of a certain good price, per ton for all 
 such as might be produced fit for its purposes ; as so desirable an 
 object hath not been accomplished under these circumstances, it 
 would seem to imply that some insurmountable obstacle opposes 
 it. In reality there is none such, both soil and climate are favor- 
 able as nature could form 'them, and the extensive demand of 
 Great Britain must ever ensure an undoubted market at prices 
 high enough to remunerate the growers very handsomely : the 
 cause of failure in the attempt, must be sought for somewhere else 
 titan in any natural deficiencies. That time and considerable 
 sums of money have been wasted is unquestionably true, but it is 
 equally a fact, that the good intentions of administration have 
 been defeated by the inadequate measures pursued in the execu- 
 tion of the plans, and not ^ little impeded by a want of general 
 
AbDE.N'DA NO. l.j 
 
 BOnCHETTE's CANADA. 
 
 XV 
 
 agricuUural knowiedgejin thepersons to wliom its management was 
 confided. It is not to be denied, but that tliere are some existing 
 difBcuIties to be removed before the cultivation of hemp can be 
 made gencraUy agreeable to all persons interested in the agricul- 
 tural produce of the province; but as r e chief of these arise 
 from the discountenance tMe clergy might slsow to its introduction 
 on an extensive scale, from a supposition t'lat it would interfere 
 with raising wheat and other grain upon the lands now in tillage, 
 and thereby someVvhat diminish their revenues ; may tlsey not 
 be surmounted by making it a tilhable article, and fixing the 
 rate to be paid as it is in England, namely, five sliillings per 
 acre, or otherwise in tlie same proportion as the contribution of 
 grain is at present taken by them, a 20th part? — Under such a re- 
 gulation the ecclesiastical body would consult its own interest, by 
 promoting the increase of this production ; a measure wbicl! 
 could easily be accomplished by the powerful influence that body 
 possesses in all the concerns of the country people, whether tem- 
 poral or .spirilua!. I have been unequivocally assured by a gen- 
 tleman, wiio has devoted the greatest part of bis life to the im- 
 provements of growing and dressing both hemp and flax, that he 
 has carefully examined several parcels of the former, sent some 
 time ago from Canada to London, and is decidedly of opinion, 
 that the growth is much superior to what is in general imported 
 from Russia ; but on the other hand, from mismanagement after 
 pulling, and fi'om being steeped in bad water, its quality and co- 
 lour, are greatly inferior to what they would have been, had it 
 undergone a proper process. The management of this plant 
 eontains nothing of mystery, and is so plain that it may be car- 
 ried on by the least intelligent husbandman in the colony, if he 
 be but once put in the proper routine. The choice of a soil fit 
 for the purpose is a leading j)oint, and the kind which is consider- 
 ed tlie best, is a rich deep loam, whereon a very good crop may 
 be raised without manure, but it may be grown on almost any 
 species not absolutely of a bad quality, if it be well manured, ex- 
 cept where there is a cold sub-foil or a very shallow staple. To 
 ensure a good crop, the most careful attention must be paid to 
 ploughing and preparing the land. The tilth should be as fine 
 and as deep as possible, a circumstance hitherto but little noticed 
 by the most part of nui; Canadian fai-mers, and in consequence of 
 
xvi 
 
 iiOUCHETTi's CANADA, 
 
 [addenCa KO. J. 
 
 lllis neglect, their produce has been most materially reduced in 
 quantity. The seed, of which about four bushels should be al- 
 lowed per acre, ought not to be put in the ground until the wea- 
 ther is become warm ; for the young plants when they begin to 
 shoot up are exceedingly tender, and^liable to be injured if night 
 frotsts happen in the early jjeriod of tWteir growth. May is gener- 
 ally the best month for sowing it ; but in Canada this time must 
 be pointed out by a correct knowledge of tlie climate. After the 
 seed is got in, a light harrow should be used, and nothing more 
 is required until it is fit for pulling; this will be, in from ten to 
 fourteen weeks. In liemp the male and female plants are more 
 distinctly defined than in almost any other species; the former 
 bears a ligiit coloured flower, but never produces any seed, the 
 latter, on (lie contrary, yields the seed but does' not bear a flower. 
 Land is not at al! impoverished by the growth of hemp, for after 
 a good crop has been pulled, it cannot possibly be in better condi- 
 tion to be laid under wheat, or indeed any thing else. 
 
 "The different soils both of Upper and Lower Canada, are like- 
 wise admirably well calculated for the growth of flax, an article 
 well deserving the farmer's consideration, from its yielding, with 
 tolerable good management, a larger as well as more certain 
 profit than the greater part of ether crops. Loam, loam mixed 
 with clay, gravel, or sand, or clay alone, indeed any land but 
 such as is very wet or very shallow, is good for raising it. On 
 warm, dry soils the sowing may commence in the middle of 
 March, and continue according to the condition and quality of 
 the land, until the first week in May ; but with it, as with hemp, 
 the seed time must be guided by a knowledge of the climate. 
 The ground may be prepared by a moderate ploughing, which is 
 Hot required to be very deep. From two and a half to thi-ee 
 l)usiiels of seed per acre may be sown, which must be harrowed 
 in, or bush harrowed, and afterwards well rolled. When the 
 plants are from four to six inches high, care should be taken to 
 have them well weeded, and then no further -attention is required 
 until the season for pulling arrives, it remains on the ground 
 {'mm twelve to sixteen weeks, and is sufficiently hardy not to re* 
 ceive any injury from night frosts. Flax and flaxseed, as well 
 as hemp, may be produced in Canada fully equal, to say the least 
 of it, to what is obtained from any other country. But they have 
 
Addekda no. I.] 
 
 BOUCIIETTe's CANADA. 
 
 always been so injudiciously managed after pulling, that their 
 natural good qualities have been seriously deteriorated. From 
 whence one might deduce, that unless a very difltjreliit system be 
 resorted to, no reasonable expectation of profit from growing it 
 can be formed, and consequently few endeavors will be made to 
 extend the cultivation of these valuable articles. But to combat 
 such a supposition, I feel infinite pleasure in being able to make 
 known among my countrymen generally, that the process of 
 steeping and dew rotting now in practice, whereby the fruits of 
 their labor have been so seriously injured, may be entirely su- 
 perceded, and henceforward the culture of tiiese imporant pro- 
 ductions may be pursued with an absolute certainty of deriving 
 an ample profit tliercfrom. However doubtful this assertion may 
 appear to many, it will nevertheless be realised by the use of 
 machines for threshing out the seed, and separating the woody 
 from the fibrous parts, both of hemp and flax, invented by Mr. 
 Lee, to whom a patent has been granted for his highlj' vaUuible 
 discovery. Fr-om a minute and attentive inspection of this mar 
 cliinery, simple in its construction beyond all conception, as well 
 as completely effectual in its performance, and from the occular 
 demonstration of the perfect success of its operation I have had 
 the satisfaction to receive from this gentleman at his factory, I 
 am warranted in saying with the utmost confidence, that if it be 
 introduced into the British North American colonies, the. greatest 
 benefits will be derived, not only by them, but by Great Britain 
 also.* As it will stimulate the occupiers of land to pursue tiiis 
 
 * I have been more minute in making the foregoing and far- 
 ther extracts from Mr. Boucheite's work, from a conviction that 
 any useful innovation, improvement or iiiveiilion that can be in- 
 troduced into the Canadian jiroviiices, can be, with at least a.s 
 much utility adopted in the contiguous parts of the United States,. 
 The culture of flax, has since the extensive introduction of cot- 
 ton cloths, declined in the United States : but the benefits of the 
 cliange, in many places may be justly doubted. The invention 
 of the circular saw, for extracting the seed from the fibre of cot- 
 ton, was the epoch of the extension of that article, and its cheap 
 application to the wants of maidcind. How far human genius 
 may obviate the expence to which the culture of flax has hitherto 
 been subject it is impossible to determine ; if the statements of 
 iVIr. Boughette aj'C even partially correct, much is already done on 
 
XViii BOtCIlETTE's CANADA. [ADDENDA NO. I. 
 
 branch of husbandry more than any premiums offered, or means 
 resorted to by government, would be able to do under the old me- 
 thod. By the use of this invention, the necessity of steeping and 
 dew rotting being avoided, the fanner having pulled Ins crop, has 
 nothing to do but stack it, when sufficiently dry for that purpose, 
 and let it remain until convenient opportunities occur of bringing 
 it into a marketable state, which may now be performed in a 
 very few hours. 
 
 The superiority of this mode of preparation is very great, and 
 the advantages obtained by it in equal proportion. All the labour 
 and attendant expeuce of steeping, spreading and drying ; as 
 well as the losses incident to these operations, is v/hoUy saved. 
 The produce of fibre is fully one-third greater by this than by 
 former methods ; while the fibre itself preserves thu whole of its 
 natural* strength unimpaired by any destructive process. In 
 cleaning flax the whole of the seed is preserved, and some parts 
 of tlie plant that by steeping are entirely destroyed, are now 
 saved to be turned to a very profitable account. The chaff', for 
 instance, is an excellent food for horses, cows, sheep, &c. and 
 the woody part when separated from the fibre, is a strong manure, 
 particularly good as a top dressing for wheat ; both of these have 
 hitherto been wasted. The mode of using the machines is so easy 
 as to be worked by women or even children; they inay,fwithQiit 
 inconvenience to a family, be fixed in cottages, or the out-houses 
 of any description, so as to furnish a constant in-door employ- 
 ment through the winter months. Hemp or flax prepared by this 
 invention is found, from experiment, to be greatly superior in 
 strength to any other. The most imparlial criterion, namely^ 
 that of suspending a weight by a line made of different sorts, of 
 the same length, thickness and weight, has been had recourse to, 
 wh.en^the one prepared in this manner has supported more than 
 double the weight of the other. 
 
 " From many conservations I have had with Mr. Lee, on the 
 subject of his patent, besides frequent proofs of its eflicacy, 1 
 feel the strongest conviction that the value of his invention will 
 soon be appreciated when it is introduced into Canada. With 
 
 that subject, and serves to shew how slowly the most valuable 
 discoveries find theif way into use.. 
 
.ADDENDA SO. 1.] KOUCHETTe's CANADA. xlx' 
 
 sucli an impression on my mind, I am persuaded, 1 slmll be aid- 
 ing to increase botli the interest and comfort of my fellow-coun- 
 trymen, by promoting, as far as lies in iny jiower, the general 
 nse of so simple and so welj contrived an ai)paratus. To estab- 
 lish, in some degree, the reality of what has been adduced, I 
 will insert the following estimate of the expencos and produce of 
 one acre of flax, which I have been rej)eatedly assured by the 
 patentee is the result of many years practical experience as a 
 grower, and formed upon such a calculation as any fair aveiago 
 crop, properly attended to, will not fail of realising always, and 
 most freqetitly somewhat exceed it. 
 
 EXPENSE PER ACRE. 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 cts,. 
 
 Kent of laud, - _ . 
 
 5 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 22 
 
 22 
 
 Ploughing and harrowing, 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 & 
 
 66 
 
 Sowing, harrowing, and roUing, 
 
 
 7 
 
 05 
 
 1 
 
 66 
 
 Weeding by hand. 
 
 
 \5 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 32- 
 
 Pulling and setting up. 
 
 1 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 Three bushels of seed, 
 
 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 OS 
 
 7 
 
 00 
 
 Cartage and stacking. 
 
 1 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 Threshing out the seed, and cleaning the flax 
 
 
 
 
 
 fit for market. 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 37 
 
 77 
 
 
 £\9 
 
 14. 
 
 00 
 
 $87 
 
 51 
 
 PRODUCE PER 
 
 ACRE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 $ 
 
 cts. 
 
 iO cwt. at 60 shillings per cwt. 
 
 SO 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 135 
 
 33 
 
 9 bushels of seed at los. per bushel, 
 
 . 4 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 20 
 
 00 
 
 Chafi; - - . . 
 
 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 06 
 
 7 
 
 00 
 
 Manure, - 
 
 3 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 8 
 
 88 
 
 
 
 01 
 
 06 
 
 169 
 
 2! 
 
 Espence, ... 
 
 - ^19 
 
 u 
 
 00 
 
 87 
 
 51 
 
 Profit* 
 
 £18 
 
 07 
 
 06 
 
 #81 
 
 70 
 
 * I have reduced this estimate to Federal money at an allow- 
 ance of 4s. 6d. to the dollar. If the data are drawn from correct 
 sources, the benefits of cultivating flax amount to a very seduc- 
 tive aggregate. The value of cotton; to the cjUivator. does not 
 
BOUCHETTe's CANADA. 
 
 [addesda no. I. 
 
 " This accoiuit is made out from the ratio of agnciiltural cx- 
 pciices in England. Some of its ilemsare undoubtedly different 
 from what lliey would be in the colonies; but the excess in one 
 would be balanced, or nearlj' so, by the reduction of another ; 
 -and as the ju ices allowed foi the produce are sucli as the ordina- 
 ry state of the market will al ways afford, and aftei' making a 
 reasonable allowance for tythes, fieiglit, and other incidental ex- 
 jiences, the general ressilt is sufficient to induce speculation with 
 tolerable fair prospects of success. It must be also taken into 
 consideration, that the expense of tlie machinery is very mode- 
 rate ; nor should it escfipe notice that a steady demand will be 
 found in England, both for flax and seed at fair prices.* 
 
 much exceed the balance here siiewn in favor of llax ; and if the 
 oi'dinary expences of the respective places where these two vege- 
 tables can be reared, are taken into account, it would admit 
 doubt which of the two products promise the largest reward to 
 iiuman labor. Rent of land enters largely into the above com- 
 putation, and though the price of land in tlie U. S. must be also 
 estimated, the interest of that price would seldom (imouut to 
 rnore lhan one dollar per acre, even with the addition of clearing 
 and fencing ; consequently the profit to the citizen of the U. S. 
 \yould be greater, than to the English farmer, by the enormous 
 dS/Terence of more than ^^^20 per acre. 
 
 * Flax, is now cultivated in many of the most thickly popu- 
 lated parts of Europe, in places, where from the i}umberDf peo- 
 ple and scarcity of land upon which to rear vegetables and ani- 
 mals for food, flax would cease to be cultivated could the inhabi- 
 tants receive in commerce, thai material at a moderate price. 
 It is only since the introduction of the saw-wiieels for cleaning 
 .cotton from the S(?ed, that the use of that excellent vegetable 
 wool has become, so prevalent. The plough itself, does not pro- 
 duce a greatei' comparative abridgment of labour, than docs the 
 .saw-wheels. I'our horses, two men, and one boy will cleanse, 
 pack, and enclose in bales per day at least six hundred pounds of 
 clean cotton, with a conrmon cylinder of fifty saws ; in the an- 
 cient mode of e.\tracling the seed by hand, four pounds of clean 
 cotton was an excessive quantity to be cleaned in one day by one 
 person. If t!ie value of tlie machinery and attendance are as- 
 .sumed at an equivalent often full grown workmen, there remains 
 a difference of fifteen to one in favor of the use of the saw ma- 
 chinery in cleansing cotton. It is very probable that flax and 
 bemj) admit a rapid transilion from the ct'ude plant to use, in au 
 equal ratio. 
 
AODBNDA NO. r."J 
 
 BOOCHETTE's CANADA. 
 
 sx'i 
 
 " With respect to hemp, it can never be doubted but what his 
 »najesty's government will be again ready to lend every support 
 and encouragement to the production of an article in our own 
 dominions, that we have long been forced to purchase from 
 strangers ; which cultivation meeting with success, in a few years 
 may render our country wholly independent of the north of Eu- 
 rope, for its supply, or at any rate liberate it from the apprehen- 
 sion of ever being put to serious inconvenience by any change of 
 political sentiments in sovereigns. The welfare of my native 
 province and its parent state, has ever been with me the stiong- 
 est incentive to exertion; and a ray of hope that I may be an 
 faumble instrument towards promoting a pursuit which would re- 
 dound to the advantage of both, hath occasioned nie to enter 
 more largely into this subject than I at first intended. If my ex- 
 pectations are too sanguine to be borne out by the opinions of 
 persons more enlightened thereon than I can pretend to be, I 
 would touch ratiier they would be attributed to an erroneojjis 
 judgment, than a willingness to commit myself to the chance 
 misleading a sitigle individual,, by hazarding any unguarded or 
 unfounded representations. 
 
 " To ascertain, in the scale of importance, to what degree the 
 North American colonies rise, their present value, and now much 
 lhat value is capable of being increased, it is necessary to take a 
 view of their commercial concerns, in order to bring their re- 
 sources fairly before us. In attempting to introduce this subject|| 
 I feel no small degree of diffidence, from the reflection that it is 
 «ne much out of the line of my professional pursuits, in tJie dis- 
 cussion of which erroneous opinions are very liable to intrude, 
 and that by meddling with it I may be blamed by many for the 
 imperfect performance. My object is to attract to this point the 
 attention of men well informed on the intricate questions of mer- 
 cantile policy,* in the hope that some much abler pen than mine, 
 
 * In discussing this very important subject, Mr. Bouchette, with 
 all his modesty, is infinitely more competent than me. Our pro- 
 fessional piusuils were indeed similar, and as far as those pur- 
 suits tend to disqualify us for examining the arcana of trade, our 
 intellectual impediments are equal: but in an intimate know- 
 ledge of Canada, and of course with the adjacent regions, Mr. 
 Bouchette has no rival ; therefore his opinions where not warped 
 foy political or natioual feelings, are eulitled to great credit. J 
 
xxii 
 
 Couchette's cAnada. 
 
 [addenda no I. 
 
 inay,al no remote period, placeitiuanioreclearaiid palpable statPj . 
 rather than to promote decision by any observations of my own. 
 The extent of my endeavors will be limited to conveying some 
 general ideas of the capabilities possessed by these provinces, oi' 
 rising into commercial greatness, if their interests be attended to 
 and protected. The situation of both Upper and Lower Canadg, 
 are replete with conveniences for trade. The great extent and 
 many ports of the St. Lawrence accessible to ships of considera:- 
 lile bafthen ; its inland navigation even to the extremity of the 
 lakes; the numerous rivers and streams which IfeU into it, by 
 which produce of all kinds may be convej'ed from the most dis- 
 tant settlements to Quebec,* or other places of shipment, ppcn 
 
 have minutely transcribed this gentleman's speculations on Ca- 
 nadian commerce, because I am aware that his observations con- 
 cern the inhabitants of the contiguous states and territories of thp 
 United States, if possible even more than the persons to whonj 
 his words are addressed. With the single exception of its freez- 
 ing in winter, the St. Lawrence does certainly possess, in climate, 
 soil, productions natural and artificial, and in present culture, 
 resources far beyond what the people of the United Slates hayc 
 any adequate conception. In the revolutions of power, first im- 
 pressions are terrible weapons; in the changes of commerce, pier 
 \ious establishments are rocks o[ adamant. If the ricli and hour- 
 ly increasing products of the St. Lawrence valley once flow to 
 Montreal, to that city will they flow, maugre all that legal prohi- 
 bition, or even the suggestions of private convenience can op- 
 pose to tlie current. Though our independence politically, is se- 
 cured beyond the reach of British rivfilry, it is the only instance 
 where we are independent of that active and insidious govern- 
 ment. Unfortunately we have citizens so morally dependant, as' 
 to, induce them to expend the fruits of thei^' talents to prevent out 
 eiitire emancipation. 
 
 * This is only correct in its fidl extent below the Falls of Nia- 
 gara; that cataract formlii!; a formidable interruption to the na- 
 vigation of the waters of the St. Lawrence. Indeed the ship 
 conveyance in that rjver and its connecting lakes are naturally- 
 divided into foursections, separated by irremovable impediments ; 
 first section, from Montreal downwards to the gulf ; second, from 
 Niagara to Ogdensburg ; ships might descend below the latter 
 village about five miles, to the head of the Grand Gallop Island 
 and Rapids, but no incentive does now, or probably ever will ex- 
 ist, to induce owners of vessels to fall below the mouth of the 
 Oswegatchic. The third section includes lakes Eric, Huron, Mi- 
 chigan, eind the raoUths of their confluents, between the Falls of 
 
»Ui»aNDA NO. !•] 
 
 BO.UeHETTE?S CANADA, 
 
 gi-eatcr facilities to HicicaiUile speculations tlian perhaps anv 
 fltlier country c«iu ofler. Tli^s liver is the (t^ily clianael by which 
 the comtnodities of these two provinces find iheir way to distarit 
 countiies, and is aiso by far the jiios^ natural, as well as most ea- 
 sily available egress for sucli ])roductions of the district^ of jhjS 
 United States lha,t lie cpiiiigiiOLis to its southern bank, as they aie 
 ^Itlc io furnish beyond .their own consuaiplion. Pr.(^lubitory laws 
 ot' the Aujericaii Senate, have, indeed^ of late been pass^ed tif 
 ^^ir its subjects froiy pxpo^-tation by tiiis rojite ; but Jhcy have 
 >igit obl§jiied^Q njuch attention as it was imagined tbf^y lyould.* 
 A ve^iy large ti-act of fertile country on their side of the border, 
 ;s^hickiy settled and in high cuUjvaiion 5 Uie industry of its iu- 
 iiabitants s^lways ijisui;es a largjs disposable sto.ck of the fruits of 
 .llieir labors, wliich the vigilancis ^iid iiiventioa ,pf a speculative 
 disposition vill not fail to discover means pf transferring t(j thjj 
 leadiest .market, in despite of eijactuients that are no igss disa- 
 greeable thai,! disadvantageous. By §>sterjng tlii| ^ijtifrcpurse, 
 ^Canada would always secure ^ vast ijdditiou of articles of thtf 
 first necessity^ in aid of its own surplus produce^ to meet a greajt 
 increase of its export trade, were that tiadji; lelieyed by the Bri- 
 jtish goveriunent from some of the iin)iediineiUs tlirov«'ji in its way 
 by existing regulalipiis, that are highly favorable to Americtt.ri 
 ^oHinierce. 
 
 " The principal exports from the Canadas, consist of new ships, 
 >)ak and pine timber, deals, masts a.nd bow,_sprits, spurs of all de- 
 .iiorainaiions, staves, pot and pearl ashes, peltry, .wheat. Hour, bisr 
 euit, liid,ian corn, pulse, salt provisions, lish^ and some other mis- 
 Niagara and the Saut S,t. Mary, The foi,i,rth section is compos- 
 ed of lake Superior and its conflu<?at rivers. The commercie of 
 ihe first two divisions, will naturally pass to Montreiil and Ciw 
 bec : .that of the latter two, will, if the New- York canal was fi- 
 itishedj iii gicta part pass through that conveyenco into the Hud- 
 jion. 
 
 * The most efficacious prohibition would be a water route, 
 open lonner, leading to a better market, and included withhi our 
 own country, f.aw* that contravene, to any groat degree, tlje 
 passions or "avidity of mankind, have been, and always will be, 
 nugatory. 'I'he (uiiver^ality of severe penal statutes agains^l dil- 
 elling, and the almost equal ubiquity of that practice, is a laud 
 gpeakiiig connnentary ,ou what 1 have advanced above. 
 
jcxiv 6'ouchette's canada. [addenda no. I. 
 
 cellaneous acticles, employing generally about 1 50,000 tons of 
 shipping. In this enumeration, the articles of primary conse- 
 quence to England, ale the growth of the forests, whether consi- 
 dered as the source of employment to British ships and native 
 sailors in the carriage of it, if they were able to contend for the, 
 freights against the indulgences granted to their opponents ; eras 
 to their being of great and continued consumption, therefore of 
 indispensible necessity. Since the year 1806, the timber trade of 
 the colonies, but of tlie Canadas in particular, increased in an 
 extraordinary degree, until the state of the country at tlie com- 
 mencement of hostilities with America not only checked its fur- 
 ther progress, but from very obvious causes, reduced it below the 
 Standard of former years. This diminution, however, must be 
 considered only accidental, and totally unconnected with the re- 
 sources of the trade, which, according to the most discreet me- 
 thods of calculation, is not only adequate to supply abundantly 
 the demand of the British West-India islands with square timber, 
 planks, deals, staves, and whatever comes under the general name 
 of lumber, but to furnish a large proportion of the same for 
 the use of Great Britain. This ability it was, and perhaps with 
 many may be still the fashion to consider problematical ; but let 
 the return of exports from 1806 to 1810 be examined, and it will 
 be readily seen, that in these four years they advanced fiom 
 about 100,000 to 375,000 tons from all the provinces, of which 
 nearly one half was from Quebec alone. To meet this demand, 
 no difRculties were encountered in procuring the necessary quan- 
 tities, either with respect to the number of hands to be employed 
 in collecting it, or any thing like a failure in the forests ; and had 
 it been as large again, it might have been answered with propor- 
 tionate facility. Within the period cited, the increase of this 
 trade in the Canadas only was much more than equivalent to the 
 total consumption of the West-India islands, estimated at 142,000 
 tons, which is but little less than half the quantity annually requi- 
 red for the use of the royal navy. The expoi t of timber in this 
 year, is, perhaps, the greatest of any that has taken place, yet the 
 ease with which it wa^ procured is,«ertai*)ly an argument that 
 •weighs strongly against the assertion, that the North American 
 colonies are unable to supply the necessities of the West-Indies. 
 "With respect to the exportation of flour and grain, the pro- 
 
ADSilNDA NO. l.j 
 
 BOUCHETTE's CANADA*.^ 
 
 XXV 
 
 giess is not certainly so satisfactory as that of timber;* yet this 
 cii ciimstance is far from being conclusive of inability to furnisli 
 such quantities as are required for the use of the West-India isl- 
 ands, whose annual demand for flour, grain, and biscuit, is com- 
 |Hit=-d at something more than 1,200,000 bushels. Of this quan- 
 tity', Canada has hitherto seldom exported, upon an average, but 
 litfle more than a third part. So great a disparity of numbers, is 
 iio> a sulBcient reason to abandon, without sorne further reflec- 
 tio!!, tiie supposition, that the supply may be made to equal the 
 deinand. Immediately, indeed, it could not; but after the lapse 
 of a very few years, may not so desirable an object be obtained, 
 when the good effects of an improved system of agricultural 
 management, and to the encouragement of which the m6st rigid 
 attention ought to be paid, begin to show themselves, combined 
 with sucli measures as would make it the interest of the people of 
 the wei! cultivated countries of the United States that lie contigu- 
 ous to our fiontier, to bring their disposable produce to the ports 
 oftiie St. Lawrence The foundation of these advantages would 
 certainly be laid, were the colonial merchants placed in a situa- 
 tion to contend against those of America, in supplying the isl- 
 ands. Until the coramencement of hostilities with us, the latter 
 enjoyed the profits of supplying our West-Indian possessions, 
 both with provisions and lumber, and which were, in fact, secured 
 to them by an act that passed the British parliament, in 1807, 
 whereby the privy council was authorised to suspend the opera- 
 tions of the Act 12th Charles the Second, excluding foreign ships 
 from trading with the English colonies. Under favor of this suspen« 
 sion,thej' employed an immense number of ships in this trade,every 
 ton of which was a manifest detriment both to our provinces and 
 
 * When in Canada, several judicious persons resident in that 
 country, expressed to me their opinion, that the lumber trade was 
 the greatest existing impediment to the prosperity and improve- 
 ment of tlie people, as it employed their active .ible-bodied labor- 
 ing men in that part of the year that ought to be appropriated to 
 agriculture. There is little doubt, but that timber trade is a very 
 unprodoctive branch of commerce, and that a country must re-;, 
 main at least in a dependant and precarious condition, where 
 much attention is paid to an application of industry, where the 
 profits are so small compared with the necessary exertion an4 
 oonsumption of time. 
 
xXvi r.dnetit'tvE'n cANa&i. lAuSikttHA «o, 
 
 oiir commercial nftty. T!ie jidmisstoti of Afneiican produce intt* 
 tlie ports of Great Britain, upon paj'ing t!ic satne duties oiily 
 are cliareed nport tlie ifiiportation of fimilstc articles from oui" 
 own colonies, is another very powerful clieck upon tl'ieir prospe- 
 rity, which from t!ie?e various combinations sigainst it, will expe- 
 rience mucb difiicnlty in rising fo the eminence it woald speedilv 
 attain, if that country, so recently ceased to be an inyeterate' 
 enemy, lie not again placed by the liberality of the fJritish go- 
 vernment in a situ^ifion to impede its j>rogres% sfird be liereafter 
 view^id hf the ititiw light; and put upon a par with other foreign 
 nations, in respect to restrfcffoVis jfnd tounfcfvailtng duties ; theu 
 fhe North American provinces will soon greatly impVove their in- 
 ternal sitirfti&W; and the mother Coirtitry Serive such benefi! 
 from them as will rPiiAet her more frTcFepesid^^nt of other nalions- 
 forjuppiies of ife first imj^orta^nci", tlian she has hitherto been."' 
 
 ITnpogr^jihical D^scriplim of tfif frovince of Lou-er Ccmsdir, 
 witfi remarl s tf/pon Upper Canada. I>'j Joseph BotcffftTtS!^ 
 Fiq- London, 1 8 ! 5- Page 57—85 .} 
 
ABDENDA no. II.} 
 
 CESKItAL EEJIARJK}, 
 
 iio. II, 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 THE foregaing correspondence and extracts, centains 
 Siibstance of iliy own personal observationSj and suCli explanato- 
 ry matter from others, as I could collect during my tour, and 
 since its termination ; I cannot, howevei-, take leave of the read- 
 er, without claiming his patience during a recapitulation, and art 
 examination of some extraneous matter, which was hot included 
 in fny original letters, though of some importance to elucidate the 
 topography of the country over which I ranged. I am aware 
 that such pcoductions as mine, Where few personal incidents are 
 jiitroduced, must draw their interest from the' geographical in* 
 formation they may contain. It has been my endeavor to throw 
 as much light as in ray power, upon the natural structure, and 
 present improvements of the tract over which I ranged ; how far 
 I have succeeded, is now before the reader. There is one object 
 of general interest, upon which more is perhaps eSEpected from 
 me than I can fulfil; that is, the Grand Canal now in progress in 
 the state of New- York. On the subject of this truly great work, 
 I have been careful to collect all the information I could procure, 
 and have nOW presented the result to the public. Not having vi- 
 sited i5allston or Saratoga Springs, I addressed a letter to the Rev* 
 Reuben Sears, desiring that gentleman to give me such informa- 
 tion as he possessed, respecting these places of public resort. Mr. 
 Sears very politely and satisfactorily replied to my letter ; his ati- 
 swer I have annexed to this Addenda, confidetit that it contains 
 much valuable statistical matteh 
 
 In my letter to Mr. G. Haines, I have explained my views 
 of the connexions that nature seems to have designed between 
 New-York and Pennsylvania, and can add but little In this place 
 to wliat I then stated. From the demonstrations I have given of 
 the true respective levels, between the head waters of the branch- 
 es of Ohio river and those which flow into lake Erie, the, forma- 
 
jcxviii 
 
 GENfiRAL KEMAUKS. 
 
 [abdendA no. 11' 
 
 tion of water commiinicalion between these stieams must be attend- 
 ed with great difficulty. We will now proceed to examine some of 
 the various intended channels of'intercoinntiinication betweeTi »he 
 Mississippi and St. Lawrence vallies, and also the routes of the 
 two New-Yoi k canals. 
 
 No doubt now remains, but that the Chicago and Illinois rivers^ 
 afford by far the most eligible natural connexion between the 
 northern and southern waters of the United States. It appears 
 that the great spine running from the Hudson to the Maumee ri- 
 ver, terminates at, or is interrupted by the valley of the Illinois. 
 The latter stream is formed towards its source by two branches, 
 one of which lises south of lake Michigan, and the other (river 
 Plein,) rises in the flat country west of the Chicago, and flowing- 
 south, unite to the south-west of the extreme south part of Mi- 
 chigan. The Chicago heads in the same plain with the river 
 Plein, and winding for some distance parallel to the latter stream, 
 thence turns east, falls into lake Michigan. The Chicago and 
 Plein intermingle their sources, and afford one of those instances 
 wliere river^ have their sources in plains, so nearly approaching 
 the curve of a real sphere as to leave for the discharge of the 
 ■waters scarce inclination safficient to determine their courses. 
 This is the case with the two rivers we are now reviewing. The 
 precise descent of the Chicago, from its nearest approach to the 
 Plein, to the level of lake Michigan has never been ascertained, 
 but it is known to be without falls, or even rapids. The Plein 
 also flows with a very slight current, and the two streams present 
 almost a strait between the Mississippi river and lake Michigan.* 
 
 * The following interesting potice, decides the long contested 
 pioblem Of a natural water communication between the waters 
 tlie St. Lawrence and Mississippi rivers, and contains also 
 some Other items of valuable information. 
 
 . fSoM THE Sf. LOlilS fcJfauiEER. 
 
 " Cbmmtvication it-ilh the lakes.— Mesh-f,. Graham and Phillips, 
 coinniissioners on the part of the United Slates, and Mr. Sulli- 
 van, snrveyo) , have set out to lake Michigan, to mark the bounda- 
 ry lines of the, lands- ceded to the United States by the Ottawa, 
 Chippewa, and Potlowattima Indians in the summer of the year 
 18l6, ' 
 
ASDBNdI no. GENERAL llfeMARKS.' 
 
 xxix 
 
 The land contiguous to this important pass, was ceded to the 
 United Stales, by tlie savage tribes who formerly possessed the 
 right of soil. Tlie land thus ceded, is now about being sur- 
 veyed, arid in course will ere long be sold to individuals and set- 
 
 " They :will run a line from the soutliern extremity of this lalie, 
 to the Mississippi. 
 
 " The Indians have ceded to the United States, what lies to 
 the south of this line. 
 
 "The commissioners will run twa other lines from the south- 
 western part of lake Michigan, to the Illinois river. The lines 
 will he parallel to each other, and twenty miles apart. They will 
 begin in the shore of the lake, at points ten miles noi th and south 
 of Chicago, and will emi^race the little rivers Chicago and Plein, 
 and the carrying place between them, which form the clmnnel of 
 communication between lake Michigan and the Illinois river. 
 Tlie Indians liave ceded (o the United States, this impoi lant pass, 
 with ten miles of country on each side of it, and it is the busi- 
 ness of the commissioners to mark out the liniils of the grant, 
 that the American government may reduce it to possession. 
 
 " The communicalion between the lake and the Illinois, is a 
 point which will fix the attention of the merchant and the states- 
 man. They will see in it the gate which is to open the iiortliern 
 seas into the valley of the IMississippi, and which is to connect 
 New- York and New-Orleans by a water line which the combined 
 navies of the woild cannot cut oft'. Never did the work of na- 
 ture require so little from the liaud of art, to complete so great a 
 design ! 
 
 " The lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, lie from west 
 to east, in the direction of the St. Lawrence, nianifi^stly seeking 
 their outlet through the valley of that river. But the Michigan, 
 departs from that direction ; she lays from north to south. Uni- 
 ted to the other lakes by a strait, she stretches the body of her 
 water down towards the head of the Illinois river, as if intending 
 to discharge herself through that channel into the Mississippi. 
 And no hills or mountains intervene to prevent the conjunction; 
 on the contrary, the ground between is flat, and covered with 
 ponds in wet weather, which turn their waters partly to the lake 
 and partly to the river. The Chicago and the Plein are the 
 drains from these ponds ; they have neither falls nor shoals : they 
 have not the character of streams, but of canals; the water 
 hardly moves in their deep and narrow channels. The Illinois 
 itself is more a canal than a river, having hardly current enough 
 lo bend the lofty grass which grows in its bed. The French of 
 i^anada and of the valley of the Mississippi have communicated 
 through this channel since the settlement of the countries. In 
 high water, boats of ten or a dozen tons, pass witliout o|jstruc» 
 
fled. Tilfi dovelopenifnt of iJic riatura! resources of this region, 
 be disiilosed witli the ordinary celerity, (liat marks the newly 
 ie'stfiblislicd soltloineiits in otir western world. 
 
 The course of lake JMiciiigan contributes in some measure to 
 dlniliiish the natin-ai advantages of its connexion with the Illinois. 
 The mouth of the Calumet river, or southern part of lake Mi- 
 chigan, is near N. lat. 42 ; whilst the straits of Micliilimakinac; 
 is about 45", 40', making a difference of latilude of 3°, 40'. Tliis 
 difference of geographical position exposes the two extremes of 
 4ake Michigan to great variety of dimate: the navigation of the 
 northern part being antnitilly, and of tlio southern frequently im- 
 peded by ice. 1 have annexed tf) this Addenda, tables whicli will 
 exiiibit the relative distance from the city of New-York to Sti 
 Louis by the Canadian lakes and by the Ohio river. These 
 i outes, liowcvcrj tife so different from each other, in climate, fa^ 
 cilities, and impediment, that \c.f^ little accurate induction cait 
 be drawn from their respective length to determine a preference. 
 
 It can scarce be doubted, but that be3'ond Buffalo, when the 
 teontiguotis countries are equally inhabited, the Illinois river and 
 Canadian lakes w ill form the channel of communication with tiiS 
 upper waters of the MIssisfippij in preference to the route by 
 (he Ohio. The niivigation of the latter river is subject to gretlt 
 fembarrassment from Frost, and loiig dry weather in tlie fall sea- 
 son. So much of the nortltcrn channel of commerce permits 
 the use of vessels flf considerable tonnage, that transportation 
 fiom Buffiilo to Chicago, will be less expensive than that of any 
 equal distance by the ()hio route. If the people of the United 
 States ought to ever unite, in bpeniug any channel of communi* 
 
 • 
 
 lioii. In the dry season, lliey arc unloaded, placed on vehicles,- 
 and drawn by oxen over a portage of a few miles, and launchetl 
 i'lto the river o!' lake, as the course of llie voyage may require. 
 Iltmdreds, nay thousands of boats have been Seen at St. Louis^ 
 which had made a 'similar passage. 
 
 " Jt mav be hoped that the government will iiOt limit itself to 
 ihe barren work of marking the lines about tliis portagfe. While 
 the state of New- York opens a canal of three hundred miles, the 
 fedeial government shouhl not be appalled at undertaking One of 
 three hundred rods. It might be dug in the time that a, long- 
 winded member of Congress would ntake a speech against its 
 IlLinslitutioriality." 
 
AliDE..NDA NO. II.] 
 
 GENERAL KjaUr.KS. 
 
 xxxi 
 
 ration, it is tliat by the 11111101.1 river and lake Michigp.n. If the 
 various points, fioin St. Louis to Buffalo, were united by commer- 
 cial facility, a numerous population would be tlie immediate con- 
 sequence, a population that w6uld spread a shield before tlie in- 
 terior pai-ls of our country, and ivoukl give a preponderance up- 
 on tbc St. Lawicnce Svatcr.«; to tlie people of the United States, 
 which in future win s would prevent a lepitition of some of thi; 
 disastrous fetents rff the late cbiifcst with Great BHtain. 
 
 With the particular features of the country around lake JMi- 
 rbigan, I am unacquainted, lint from all the scattered information 
 1 iiave been ablfe to procure, I am induced tb believe that tlie 
 Shores of lakes Erie and Michigan are iu a gieat part similar, nnd 
 if such is the fact, the latter is fenvironed with shores possessing 
 sill the attributes necasSSry to permit a deiise and flourishing set- 
 tlement. Tliflt part of the Biichigan petiinsiila, jjrojecting along 
 the south-west *ide of lake Huron, is equal in soil to any other ter- 
 ritory of so great extent in the St. Lawrence valley, or perhaps in 
 sin)' conntr}'. From Buffalo to Chicago, is a di.stance, following 
 the inflection.? of the Jihores, bf 850 tnik's ; and including the 
 western and fiorlbern banks of lake Micliigan, of 1,200 miles. If 
 ^Ve allow only the extension Of 20 miles from the margin of the 
 hikes for settlfeinent, we litfve k fine border containing 24,000 
 square miles ; to which if we add an equal width along the Chi- 
 cago, Illinois, and jMississippi riveisj to St. Louis, 400 miles in 
 length, the a&gregate will pro<luce ati entire siirface of 32,000 
 iquare mile.'i, Or 19,480,000 acres; and at the very thin popula- 
 fion of 50 persons to the square milt?, would contain l,50ii,()00 
 people. That the soil of this tract is capable of supporting more 
 iliaji foiir times the supposed number I hiiVe no doubt, and that in 
 the lapse of less tliaii thirty years from this time, it will contain 
 iiiore than one million and a half of perSt'nS I have as little 
 doubt. Before the tr^i'ddleof the current ccritiiiy, if no ca.tastro- 
 plie occurs to disturb ih'e present course of events, there will ex- 
 !.st, between the city of New- York and St. LouiSj within less tliati 
 fifty miles of the line weare tiow e:<Jamining, moife than five mil- 
 lions of people, or about one half as many as are now in the whole 
 United States. Tbis may perhaps excite a suspicion of visiona- 
 ry views in the wHter, but some statistical facts may render the 
 anticipation at least probable. It may be doubted, whether tlierti 
 
xxxii 
 
 ISKNBJIAL REMARKS. 
 
 [adOenda no. iii 
 
 is now mvlcr cultivation in the United States, as much productive 
 soil as is contained upon the surface under review. If a pair of 
 compasses is supposed to be set down in the city of Philadelphia, 
 and extended to 100 miles radius, the sweep will include a surface! 
 of about 20,000 square miles of solid land, and more than one 
 million and a half of people, or nearly a sixth part of the entire 
 population of the United States. Jf 20,000 square miles is assum- ' 
 ed as the land included in the radii of 100 miles from Philadel- 
 phia, and l,50opoo as the population, then this surface must 
 have an average population of 75 to the square mile, out of 
 which 300,000 may be supposed to inhabit the cities of New- 
 York, PhiladclpKia, Baltiinore, and other towns. No person ac» 
 quainted with tlie compdiative regions, would hazard the asser- 
 tion, that 20,000 square miles around PJiiladelphia, is equal in re- 
 spect to soil, to an equal surface along the Mohawk, in west New- 
 York, along the south side of lake Erie, in theilVlichigan penin- 
 sula, and upon the Illinois river; the fact is, that compared to 
 each other, a decicted preference is due to the latter over the for- 
 mer section, in the quality of the soil, and in general commercial 
 •advantages ; all things considered, they are nearly equah Many 
 counties in the western states have already a population of more 
 than 30 to the square mile, upon soil much less adapted to agri- 
 culture, manufactures, or commerce, than the north-western 
 range from the city of New-York to St. Louis. 
 
 The route by lake Erie, Maumee, and Wabasli, is in point of 
 course, the most direct line of communication from the Canadi- 
 an sea, to the Ohio and Mississippi rivers; but subject to some 
 inconveniences not found b)' the Illinois and Michigan passage. 
 Though not impeded by either falls or cataracts, the Wabash is a 
 rapid stream, and for ascending navigation difficult; this stream 
 is however navigable to very near its source, and waters a body 
 of verj' excellent land. Maumee river has its sources on the same 
 table land with those of the Wabash, and flowing to the north- 
 east falls into lake Erie. The navigation of the latter river is 
 obstructed by fails near its discharge into Maumee bay, or the 
 extreme south-western curve of lake Erie. The country water- 
 ed by the Maumee river is generally fertile and well adapted to 
 the production of small grain. The Tiidian title being now ex- 
 tinct to considerable tracts on that river, settlement by a whijfe 
 
Aa)OEND4 NO. II.] 
 
 eENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 population will speedily ensue. The route by the Maumee and 
 Wabash may be made useful to a large cbramurrity on the banks 
 of tliose streams, though as a channel of active intercourse be- 
 tween the Atlantic coast and the Mississippi valley, the northern 
 route will be preferred. 
 
 Another route presents itself, which lias been hitherto in great 
 part overlooked ; tliat is, by the Huron of lake Erie, or river 
 Raisin, with streams failing into the south-east extremity of lake 
 Michigan. From the narrowness of the table land of the Mi- 
 chigan peninsula, and from the great saving of distance by 
 Michilimachinac, no doubt but that this former route will, at some 
 future period, be found of great national utility, particularly in 
 winter. 
 
 A projected union of Sandusky with the Sciota river, has been 
 long conceived ; of either the facility of execution, or benefits if 
 completed, of this design I am unable to speak with certainty. 
 
 Viewing a map of the respective places, the most obvious con- 
 nexion between the western parts of lake Erie, and the Ohio vaK 
 ley is by the Muskingum and Cayahoga rivers. If a canal or 
 good turnpike road united these latter streams, the benefits would 
 be immediate and certain. I find tliis subject has met the atten- 
 tion of the people of the state of Ohio ; and if the statistical purt 
 of the following extract is correct, can be effected with great ease. 
 
 " Clkaveland, Nov. 1 1 . 
 
 " Contemplated canal. — We have conversed with gentlemen resit- 
 ingon the river Tuscarawas, (a branch of Muskingum river) who 
 informs us, that boats could be constructed so as to carry Soa 
 barrels of flour up and down the river to a portage of eight miles 
 to the Cayahoga river — a navigable stream for boats of all sizes 
 during the summer months, and as branches from both streams 
 head in a large pond, it would be an easy matter to cut a canal, 
 so as to unite those streams, and thereby secure to ourselves tlie 
 trade of the Ohio river, and the vast and fertile country on the, 
 banks of the Muskingum. We would invite the attention of the 
 state legislature to this important object, inasmuch as it would be 
 a source of inexhaustible wealth to the state, and unite the inte- 
 rest of the south, with that of the more northern sections of our^ 
 country. 
 
 " As the great western canal, uniting lake Erie vatii the Iludr y 
 
UjiNJilUL EE31AKKS, 
 
 [AIli>liJ>UA i\0. ij. 
 
 son river, is In y. sfate of forwardness, and wilt in two or ihreie 
 years be completed, at ouc.e opeiiing an ufiinlerrupte4 .commuiiir 
 cation between lake Erie and the city of New- York. The uier- 
 clianj can have his goods brought on for a trille. 3.nd i)i retiirji c^u 
 (rausnii.t tlie surplus products of our country to a sure market.. 
 This siHgiiS circutiist^iice, is ampl}' sufficient to induce the legis- 
 lature of Ohio fo fgllgw tlie exEunple of their brethren in the easij 
 and cut a canal of only eight miles, to bring the products from tlie 
 feitile banks of tlie Ohio, through lake Erie to ilie cily of New- 
 York. If the state legislature, and heads of department aie not 
 b'ind to the interest of the slate, they will not let the present ses- 
 sion pass, without at least preparing j,o put tiiis iiiipofj..an), wpvk 
 into execution." 
 
 This well to'rilten article deserves a more permanent repoid 
 than the cohiains of a neivspaper, 1 have embodied it into my 
 addenda, as it inay tend at I.east to stimulate enquiry into an ini'j 
 jjortant pQint Ojf our geography and national policy. 
 
 From Clevjeland 1,0 BuiTalo, .except by good roads, the inter? 
 course will be diflicuU betvveen the people ,wb.o inhabit tliB ahoics 
 of the Can^idiun se^, and those of the .Ohio valley. 
 
 We now approach .the most jmportant )iart of our enquiry, tlit» 
 FrUnuni Mfibilf, of nearly the jexprtion that will he made t<j 
 give efieci to any of Jlie pr.eceding improvements. The Gian4 ■ 
 jGi^nal of the siate of Nejy-York ; a work that /irrested les^ 
 attention than the creatjQu of new, .or the delinfluency of old 
 batiks ; and yet a work that ig destined to produce more lasting 
 impressions upon our external and internal policy, than any un- 
 dertaking since the iin'maiion of the federal coii.stitution. Noth?. 
 jngc^ij be mQre narrow, more selfish, more puerile, or more un; 
 iVijuded, than the su|)pos,ition tha,t the slate of New- York, as she 
 js only to be bene^tted, .Qught to bear the expenie of this greal; 
 project. In fact, when completed, the state of New-York, iif 
 proportion to her extent and population, will gain less from the 
 usufruct of the Canal, than a pari of Pennsylvania, the norlher.ii 
 part of the stateof Ohio, all the Territory of Michigan, all the vast 
 region beoynd, to the sources of lakes Superior and Michigan and 
 all Upper Canada above llie chute of Niagara. Without such a 
 channel to the Atlantic coast, remote and detached masses of 
 jwpulalion will be either fofc.ed to form their commercial con- 
 
IBDEXO.V NO. H.J ^BNEaAL-EBMAnfc. K.-iXV 
 
 nexions with Moiitica!, or remain in a state of inaclivity. This 
 is exactly tlie case tit the present moment. The man who con- 
 founds the snbjeGt of tlie Canal jyilli local pr personal politics, 
 lias very little sense of ay respect for his own future fame ; and 
 such a mistake will he of more injury to fliose who commit it, 
 than to the execution (if the design. It will leave llip imprint of 
 its patrons on the face of the globe, an imprint that will remain 
 cenJurl.es after the names of those who arc now only rendered 
 .remarkable iry office, \yi!l have passed to the deep silence of 
 wbliviQH. 
 
 If a river flowed fropi Buffalo to Albany, with a slow apd gen- 
 tle current, unobstructed by rapids or shoals, with four feet water, 
 nature woulcj then have donp for iiUerior North America, only 
 ^yhai the Canal is calealated to perform. To oppose or ihwart 
 such a work, from motives of rival politics, is, to say the least, 
 unwise, inexGusablfi in an individual however obscure 5 Jjut iu 
 those whose decisions have a higher authority, pernicious. ]Eve- 
 ry road, bridge, or canal that js formed, of liowsver small ex- 
 tent, eonlributps to unite society, to promote social pnd mora^ 
 intercourse^ and to render men more liberijl and rnore happy. 
 Tiie man who gives his mite to acfcelcrate tjie formation of such 
 works, does a lasting good to his species. To obtain a high rank 
 amongst mankind ; to become at once the envy of rivals, and 
 admiration of friends, is the lot of few pien ; but to contribute 
 to national prosperify by aiding designs of public utiljty, is withijj. 
 the reach of all men. And it is now 9. time to pause, and re- 
 flect whether the resources of the United States can not be more 
 advantageously einployed in internal improvement thztn in forr 
 eig.'i commerce. If this hour of reflection is negleptcd, posterit)-, 
 whilst suffering the etfils, may execrate the folly of the prcseijt 
 generatioR. 
 
 Wc will now take a cursory survey of the intended route of the 
 canal, and without waiting for potty details, rapidly glance ovpr 
 the facilities offered by nature, njr impediments opposed to its. 
 execution. 
 
 The Canal leaves Buffalo, tlience follows the shore of Niagara 
 strait to the mouth of Tonnewanta creek, turns up thtj bed of 
 that stream to where the level of lake Erie terminates, then 
 
 leaves the Totuicwaiita upon lake Mric IcvqI, wliiph, it f(^!!o-vs. to" 
 
xxxvt 
 
 (■jEKEflAL KEMAKKS. 
 
 [addenda no. 
 
 tlie brow of Ontario heiglits. The Canal then assumes its great 
 eastern direction towards Rome ; follows the Ontario lieighls 
 throngli the sources of Eighteen Mile creek, Oak Orchard creek, 
 Sandy creek, and some smaller streams to Genesee, which latter 
 j'iver the canal will pass by a dam, or on an aqueduct bridge, and 
 winding thence over the heads of Irondequol creek, enters the 
 sources of Seneca river by Mud creek. The Canal then follows 
 the' channel of Mud creek to the outlet of Canandaigua lake, and 
 also down the united stream to its junction with the outlets of 
 Seneca and Cayuga lakes. The latter point is the extreme de- 
 pression of land between Rome and Buffalo, and thus far may the 
 waters of lake Erie be made subservient to the Canal, if neces- 
 sary. So many feeders flow across the Canal route, that a su- 
 perabundance of water is to be found in all its length. I have 
 here noticed the northern route, which, from lake Erie at the 
 Hioulli of Buffalo creek, to the intersection of the Canal with 
 Seneca river, is 99 miles. The commissioners who framed the re- 
 port, under the law of the state of New- York, of the 1 7th of April, 
 i816j seem to have preferred the southern i-oute, but for reasons 
 not sufficiently explained in their report. The two routes diverge 
 from each other at the point, 1 1 miles up the Tonnewanta, and 
 again unite at the west bank of Genesee river. The northern 
 route, as I have mentioned, never rises above the lake Erie level, 
 but the southern route rises above lake Erie, to gain the summit 
 level near Batavia, nearly 75 feet ; a descent it must fall in ap- 
 proaching Genesee river, together with the difference of level of 
 that stream and lake Erie, 194 feet; or in all, from the Ba- 
 tavia level to Genesee, 269 feet. The northern route avoids any 
 descent between lake Erie and Genesee river, except the simple 
 difference of level between these waters, and is exempt from any 
 ascent whatever, above the lake Erie level. The northern route 
 must also possess the insuperable advantage of a much greater, 
 and more certain supply of water. 
 
 Neither route as far as Seneca river, meets any very serious 
 impediments from natural obstacles, and can be no doubt execu-, 
 ted within the estimates made by the commissioners. 
 
 The level near Rome is 48.5 feet higher than low water in Sen- 
 eca river ; the intermediate space generally a rich alluvion. 
 Here are presented some of the most curious phenomena of 
 
ADDENDA NO. II.] 
 
 •cenehal remarks. 
 
 xxsvii 
 
 North America. The singular adaptation of the space between 
 Rome and Seneca river for a Canal, is described in the following 
 very striking manner by the commissioners. 
 
 " The exuberant supply of water for the canalj in this section, 
 must be at once perceived from an inspection of the topographi- 
 cal map. At its CDiiiinencement, the waters of the Mohawk ri* 
 ver will be used, and they can be increased to any extent, by in- 
 troducing a feeder from Fish creek. Independently of numerous 
 small brooks, the canal can derive as much water as can be de- 
 sired from the Oneida, the Cowaslon, the Caiiasaiaga, the Chit- 
 tenidjro, Oie Black, the Limestone, the Butternut, the Onondaga, 
 the Nine-mile, the Skcneateles, the Bread, the Cold-spring, the 
 Owasco, and the Crane creeks ; some of which are the outlets of 
 lakes, and others originate from perennial springs in high lands, 
 and will never be affected by the clearing of the country. 
 
 " The adaptation of the grounds of this section, for a canal, is 
 peculiar and extraordinary. After proceeding two miles and 
 fourteen chains, it will be necessary to descend 6 feet ; after which, 
 the line of the canal proceeds 41 1-2 miles on one level. A de- 
 scent of 19 feet then takes place, from the foot of which another 
 level extends "o miles. For the remainder of the distance to the 
 Seneca river, there are three departures from the level — one of 8,. 
 one of 9^ and one of 6 1-2 feet. Thus the whole extent of this 
 section, occupying 77 miles, will require but six locks. 
 
 " In many places inexliaustible beds of gypsum exist, which can, 
 by means of this canal, be conveyed cheaper to the great agricul- 
 tural counties of the state, than it can be procured by importa- 
 tion. And nothing is more easy than, by a short lateral canal of 
 1 1-2 miles in length, to form a communication between Salina 
 and the great canal, thus furnishing fuel to the works, and salt to 
 the whole country. A level has been carried from that of the ca- 
 nal, at the foot of the two locks near Onondaga creek, which 
 would require no greater depth of excavation than four feet, in 
 any place, and no embankment, culvert, or lock." 
 
 Vide Commissioner's Report, page 59. 
 It may be said with justice, that the country west of Utica, is 
 pccuharly adapted to the formation of a canal ; and if no farther 
 progress should ever be made than uniting together by a water 
 uoinmunication, the Mohawk and Seneca rivers, such ^ work 
 
 T 
 
GENERAL REJIARKS. 
 
 [addenda is-o. 
 
 ought to immoilalize its projectors, and emicli those who carry 
 it into excciitioii. I have shown that the Mohawk river near 
 Rome, at high water divides its stream and disch<\rges water to- 
 wards the Hudson and St. Lawrence rivers; of course tliis cir- 
 cumstance renders the volume of tl)e Mohawk suhservient as a 
 feeder to tlie canal, both to the westward and eastward. 
 
 VVlien writing on this subject, the idea first presented itself to 
 jny mind, that tlirough either the Mohawk, or some valley to the 
 ■south-west of that village, once flowed the St. Lawrence river. 
 Rome is only 188 feet above lake Ontario; and the vallies cf the 
 Cliitteningo, perhaps not so high even near the sources of that 
 river. 
 
 Every step I advance in the inquiry respecting the Grand Ca- 
 nal, I am the more impressed with the belief that much valuable 
 information would be gained by an accurate survey of the inter- 
 locking sources of the Susquehanna river and the sti cams flow ing 
 towards Oneida lake.- Th6 points chosen, Xew ton creek and Se- 
 neca lake, to unite the Susquehannn river to the confluent waters 
 of the Grand Canal, are the most obvious,* but I now very much 
 doubt their being the only points of contact, where very useful 
 improvements could be made. If ever lake Ontario was 188 
 feet above its present level, then was its waters discharged, either 
 towards the Hudson or Susquehanna, or both. The ancient fea- 
 tures of this continent, must liave bclen very ditTerent from the 
 present. It will be recollected, that the diiference of level be- 
 tween lakes Eric and Ontario, is 334 feetj therefore, if the sur- 
 face of the;jlatler was again elevated 188 feet, its level would still 
 he depressed below that of the former 146 feet. 
 
 No person of ordinary observation, who examines the shores 
 of lake Ontario or the banks of St. Lawrence river, but will grant 
 tlifit abundant evidences remain to attest an elevation of lake 
 Ontario of more than twoliundred feet above itS' present surface. 
 Evidences also exist-, to prove that tiie recession of tliat Jake was 
 periodica!. The chain of smaller lakes lying west of Rome, 
 north of the dividing ridge, ijnd east of Genesee riyer, were once 
 bays of Ontario. It is very certain, that the space between the 
 hills north of Utica, to those soutji of Skeneatcles lake, is stil! fur 
 
 See page 1.^6, 
 
AnbENdA NO. II.] 
 
 CESERAL SEHiRKa. 
 
 xxxix 
 
 the lowest goi'ge in the separating ridge that exists between tlie 
 tlliiiois river and lake Chainjilaiii ; and admitting the ancient ele- 
 vation of lake Oiitario to the level of the Alohawk river near 
 Rome, then through this , pass once flowed the St. Lawrence wa- 
 ters. If such a disposition of things was ever the case, the an- 
 cient channel remains, and will, it is probable, be found tl>e most 
 eligible channel of communication that nature admitSj between 
 the waters of St. Liiwrence aiUl Susquehanna rivers. 
 
 Happily the Grand Canal in leaving that of the Mohawk, pas- 
 ses into the St. Lawrence valley, by this apparently ancient chan- 
 nel, sknd has received from nature a facility in effecting its execu- 
 tion, that no where else exists in all the line of connexion be- 
 tweeh the waters (lowing towards the Atlantic coast, and those 
 which enter the Ohio valley. The Susquehanna river is render- 
 led renl!trkable,froni rising north-west of the Allegany mountains, 
 and from passing that feiitire tliaiti in its course to the Atlantic 
 bccan. The foregoing is however a characteristic which the 
 Hudson participates with the Susquehanna; the Mohawk fiseS 
 north-west of the spine of the Allegany, and also p.asses over a 
 part of that chaiil, in its way to the Hudson, which latter pierceS 
 the residue. 
 
 After joining the iM<*hawk rivcr near Rome, it is intended to 
 follow the margin of that river witi'i the canal, keeping the south 
 bank. Except at the Litlle* and Cohoes Falls, no impediment of 
 
 « New- York, Oct. 
 * " Intn-nal Triid6.~-'Vhe f**llowing is an extract of a letter, 
 addressed to the Editor, tVom a gentleman at the westward, whose, 
 intelliffence and opportunities are such as to give confldence to 
 his statements. 
 
 ' From the Company's books at the Little Falls, I find that the 
 number of tans nf merchandise and produce, transported in boats 
 through the Icicka at that plac.e, during the year \S\T, is threa 
 t'iou>>and seven kundred and thirti/-jive. From one limited trade, 
 for the want of an uninterrupted water communieation with thej 
 Western part of the state, &c. I estimate the price of transporta- 
 tion per toil at .^'eo^which will make an aggregate of ^224,lO<i 
 per annum. 
 
 ' The receipts at tliosc locks only, for the last year, were about 
 
 0,000 — anci this year they will amount to about ,$'12,000. 
 
 ' There may be a distinct branch of commerce between Utica 
 
 and lake Ontario, &c. through Wood creek— but_of Ihis^I hav^ 
 
 lio account. 
 
GENERAL EE3IAEKS. 
 
 [abdexda no. JJ, 
 
 any consequence exists in the distance between Rome and Alba- 
 ny. Locks ah-eady exist at the Little Falls, wliich enable the 
 farmers and merchants to transport their produce and merchan- 
 dise, by water from tlie upper Mohawk to Schenectady. The 
 note at the bottom of this page, will give some idea of the present 
 
 ' From an account taken for the purpose, at a turnpike gate 
 above tlie Little Falls, (where it will be recollected an imporlant 
 road diverges to the north,) I calculate the number of two and 
 three-horse waggons employed in transportation, (exclusive of 
 the occasional trips of farmers' waggons, and of those retnoving 
 families and furniture,) to be 290^ — making on an average twelve 
 trips a year, and carrying both ways two and a lialf tons each. 
 As the loads of such waggons do not generally go so far west as 
 . those of the larger waggons, the trans jwrtat ion is calculated at 
 but ^30 per ton. — amounting to 80,000 per annum. 
 
 ' Of five, six, and seven-horse waggons, there appears to be 
 forty employed, carrying on an average six tons, both ways, and 
 making at least six trips (I might say seven) per annum — their 
 freight at $40 per ton, amounis to $37,600. 
 
 ' For transportation by boals, - . - - $224,100 
 do. " small waggons, - - - 180,000 
 
 do. large - - .f - - S7,000 
 
 Total, .^16i,IOO 
 
 ' I have submitted these statements to men who are competent 
 to decide, and they pronounce them rather low than otherwise. 
 The price of freight is lower than the estimate of Sidney ; but I 
 liave reason to believe it is nearly correct, as a very large pro]^><jr- 
 tion is started and landed short of Buifalo ; and produce is 
 brought to, much cheaper than merchandise is carried from Al- 
 bany. 
 
 ' It will be observed, that nearly half a. million is now paid for 
 transportation nnnoally, from above the Liitle Falls, and the 
 Biatk river roads, of course on one side only of the Muhaivk, and 
 upon the rive.r itselj'— and that the transportation, has increased 
 at l( ast one sixth, since last winter, upon the liver. What would 
 tiu: people sav to a savi.'ig of but half of the above expense? 
 Wi.at would lliey say if that saving was doubled, by adding to the 
 account the thousands of loads yearly transported h}' tlie farmej'S 
 themselves.'' And what would they not say, could they foresee 
 the- immense quantities of produce and meicl'.andise which must 
 necessarily pass this great thoroughfare to and from the westerf! 
 u orld, whenever the canal is opened ? 
 
 ' But 1 must not indulge'fancy, when lam restricted by a want 
 of both time and capacity to do any thing like justice to my sub- 
 ject. I have collected a fev/ facts, which are at your disposal, if 
 they are worth .prose?ving,'- '—Cnlumhian. 
 
ADDENDA NO. II.j 
 
 CENEEAL REMAIIKS. 
 
 quantity and value of produee, which is transported tlirough the 
 locks at tlic Little Falls, It will be recollected, however, that if 
 agriculture and commerce make roads and canals, roads and 
 canals re-act, and in tlieir turn augment agriculture and com* 
 merce. Therefore, no estimate made as things are now situated, 
 can give an adequate conception of llie trade of the Mohawk, if 
 that stream was connected with Seneca river and lake Erie. 
 
 The middle section of the canal, is the only part which is yet 
 in progress, and is now so far advanced, as to render it probable, 
 that in the ensuing year, the communication with the Seneca will 
 be completed, and the middle and eastern parts of the state uni- 
 ted, which alone would be of incalculable gain to tlie state. 
 
 " The middle section of this canal," says the Utica Gazeltej 
 '•'is in nearly as great forwardness as that of the northern, and it 
 is expected that it will be completed before the close of another 
 season. This section extends from Ulica to Seneca river, a dis- 
 tance of nearly 90 miles, and in its whole course has but one set 
 of locks, and those at Salina, 60 miles west of Utica." 
 
 Writing upon the subject of the canal, I proceeded rather as a> 
 statist than an engineer; without attending to the minor details, 
 my endeavor has been to develope the general features of the 
 country through which this work is intended to pass, and rather 
 to show its practicability and usefulness, than the ordinary means 
 to effect its execution. 
 
 For further information respecting this project, I must refer to 
 the followi)ig documents. 
 
 ••' Memorial to the New- York Legislature, when the Western Car 
 nal was first projected." Written by De Witt Clinton. 
 
 " Reports of Canal Commissioners." 
 Memorial to the Congress of the United States, t©; solicit aid 
 in making the Grand Canal." 
 
 ■•' Considerations on the Great Western and Northern Canals, in- 
 cluding a view of the expense, progress, and advantages." 
 Written under the direction of the New- York Corresponding 
 Association for Promotion of Internal Improvements. By 
 Chaeles G. Haines. 
 
 This latter work, perhaps more than any otlier that has ap- 
 peared, gives a luminous expose of the canal and its certain be- 
 nefits to the nation, as well as state of Ne:y-York; and ought to 
 
Jilif . GKKBRAl. REMAUKS. [ADDENDA HO. U 
 
 be read impartially by e^ ery tnan wbo desires to (liink, sjjeak, or 
 judge correctly on tlie important subject upon which it treats, I 
 did iiot \isil tlie region in which rinis the Northern Canal betweers 
 the Hudson river and lake Champlain, therefore cannot include 
 any details respecting that undertaking in this treatise. 
 
 Among the many benetils that the people of the interior of the 
 state of Newv York, will derive from a water communication with 
 the Canadian sea, one of the greatest has hardly been noticed, — 
 the lake fisheriRS, which may he cxteiidcd to any jiossible demand. 
 These fisheries have been liitherto in some measure checked by 
 the dearness and difficulty of procuring salt. This ificonveni- 
 eilce will be remedied by the canal, and the natural streams with 
 .which it viill be coimectcd. 
 
 " Lake Fisheries. — We carnot sufficient!)' appreciate the good.; 
 ness of Pioxidoncc, for the jieculiar bestowment of his favors on 
 the people of this stale. 'I'he sources of New- York yet only 
 «!awn upon ps. — Ileaven lias placed an exclusive supply of salt 
 ill the heart of the state, and this necessary article is dispensed 
 for one shilling a bushel, where the transportation alone, if im- 
 ported, would cost twelve. Not only are the inhabitants of the 
 ■•.vhole interior of the state provided at a Tow rate, but a large suc- 
 ])lus is 3 early exported. The current season, more than sixteen 
 ihonsand barrels have gone through lake Ontario, for Pennsylvar 
 Ilia and Ohio..^Gypsum too, in quantity eq^iial to every purpose 
 8*id beyond coiiSi'imption, is found in vast beds where the distance 
 must, but for the bounty of the great author of nature have deni-5 
 fd the fanner this great aid in agriculture. These sources of 
 wealth and convenience Imve been frequenllj' described,, while 
 the no less libera! hand of Providence in fiirnisliiiig the wants of 
 jriany and tlie luxury of others, by means of the fish found in thg 
 lakes, is hardly known or acknowledged. The season for taking 
 fish is just closing — I have not to the data for an estimate of tlie 
 vcarly product of this lake, but have ascertained from the most 
 rorrcct sources the following to be the quantity and species of fislf 
 t;ik«n and ^alted this season, in this and Cliaumbnt bays. 
 " Siscoes or lake Herring, 4,000 barrels, 
 
 selling price §7 per liarrel, is ^28,OOQ 
 " White fish, 1,200 bbls. pj-ice $9 is 10,8'.>0 
 
 f Salmon Trout, 400 bbls. " 14 is 5,600 
 
 Tot^l, 5,g0o bblis. amountj $44^1.00 
 
<tl>aENDA.W. n.J GENERAL IIE5IARK3, • xUii 
 
 "»Tl!e (Ustaiicc coiiipiised is less than twenty miles, and 
 file quantity is exclusive of the abundance tlislributed fres.h 
 ia the country, contiguous to the fisliing grounds. From 
 tnis statement some opinion maybe formed of the value, 
 importance, and extent of our inland fisheries. Industry and la- 
 boj- are alone wanling to share tliis bounly, and the poor are ena- 
 bled to provide a resource for winter with but little expense. To 
 some they furnish the means of subsistence, wliile others at a dis- 
 tance seek tJicra as a luxury. We are glad to have it in our pow- 
 er to state, that a law was passed by the late assembly to regulate 
 the packing of lake liSh, and provides for the appointment of in-i 
 sj)ectors, who have branded all those put up under their direction." 
 
 Jt was not the season for fishing when I was upon the Canadi- 
 an lakes, 1 am therefore the le.ss enabled to give either accursite or 
 extensive information upon the subject. Tiie inhabitants of the 
 contiguous sliojos consider the lisb of the iakes as a very serious 
 part of their nourishment. The lower extremity of lake Onta- 
 rio, the Bass islands in lake Erie, and the Manatoulin islands ia 
 lake Huron, are generally represented as aflbrding the best fishe- 
 ries in these respective lakes. 'Die mouths of most of the river? 
 also abound w ith fish of various kinds, of excellent qualjty- 
 
 This article might indeed he extended to any length. The re- 
 sources of the St. Lawrence valley are so numerous, so widely 
 spread, and; I jnight add until lately, so little ajjpreciated, that 
 a volume might be written to exhibit the neglected objects with 
 which it abounds, and that may, and no doubt will ere long bc! 
 brought into use. 
 
 "^I shall close this article by some observations upon travel- 
 ling through the St. Lawrence valley. Viewed in the light of a 
 tour of pleasurable amusement, I cannot conceive of a country 
 where more could be enjoyed, as far as the richest objects in na- 
 Jure are gratifying to our taste. From the city of New-York to 
 that of Albany, and from the latter along the Mohawk and Sene- 
 ca rivers, tlie traveller finds renewed gratification at every stej). 
 From Canandaigua to Buffalo, is the least interesting tract o\ter 
 which I myself passed ; but even here, many circumstances in 
 the improvement of the farms, villages, and roads, will afford am- 
 
 j)le gratification to minds who derive delight from seeing a. wildef? 
 
 ness changed to a cultivated country. 
 
GEKKRAL JiEMAEKS. 
 
 [addenda no. Sf, 
 
 AVliei) arrived at Bulialo, a tract opens, that the coldest iieart 
 ean scarce view willi indifference. Here opens the expanse of 
 lake Erie, the richly spreading landscapes along Niagara river, 
 and above all, that cataract, that to have seen may be considei ed 
 a privilege. Tlie stearn-boat will in a few days waft the traveller 
 along the surface of lake Erie to Detroit; and whilst on this voy- 
 age, the swelling shores of that lake, the numerous islands in its 
 south-west extremity, above all, the well cultivated shores and 
 beautiful strait of Erie, with its towns, farms, and other objects, 
 will combine to present a continually renewed feast to the mind. 
 Returned to Buffalo, the Niagara strait can once more be passed 
 witli unabated plca.sure. Tlie steam-boatsareagaiii in rcadinessat 
 Lewiston or Queenston, to waft the traveller along Ontario to 
 Racket's Uaibor. I'he .scer:ery upon the shores of Ontario is more 
 varied, and of a bolder aspect than upon Erie, and though 
 the least in extent of the five great lakes of Canada, Ontario is 
 the most interesting of the whole groupe. With Niagara at the 
 one extremity, and the St. Lawrence at the other, and receiving 
 fiom its southern shores the Genesee, Oswego, and Black rivcis,' 
 this noble sheet of water may claim the first j-auk, when viewed, 
 as the great connecting link, between tjie vast interior sea of 
 North America, and the nnequalled stream flowing from its east- 
 ern point. And as if to render its supeiiority over its more ex- 
 pansive rivals decisive, it possesses the two hne baibors of Kings- 
 ton and Sacket's, wliere sliips of the line of tlie first rate, 
 now lie in silent majesty, awaiting the period of war, to waft the 
 thunder of their hundred cannon over its deep and occaii-like 
 bosom. 
 
 Beside the features of Black river, which as high as Watertown 
 well deserve a visit from the curious traveller, many other objects 
 near Sacket's Hai boi-, will amply reward the trouble and expense 
 of a review. The spot is indeed classic giound. It was litre 
 that fir.st budded the now majestic laurels of our living Genera! 
 Blown ; and it is here, where rests the remains of the brave, the 
 generous, humane, and chivalrous Pike. Upon the point of land 
 overlooking the harbor, rests the ashes of this American hero ; 
 and few Americans will ever visit the spot without dropping a tear 
 to the too early, but glorious exit of this gallant soldier. But 
 Pike rests not alone ; — other heroes sleep beside liim. Many of 
 
APOEN0A NO. li-] 
 
 GENEKAI, BEMAUKS. 
 
 sIv 
 
 the best add biavest men of the nation, fell upon the Canadian 
 border. Their names have only in part survived tlie battle field ; 
 their dying sigh mingled witli the last roar of the cannon, and 
 left their memory to be cherished by a few relatives and fHends', 
 and forgotten by that country they so greatly served. The Ha- 
 veJler in seeking their graves, will often seek in vain ; no liand is 
 found to point to the spot where the soldier sleeps. Fanie lavish- 
 es her plaudits upon a few, and leaves the many to pei-ish without 
 a name ; and, often the man whose sword saved his country, has 
 not even the poor memorial of a heap of earth, to render sacred 
 the spot where his remains have been laid 5 and alas ! too often 
 bis little orphans, mingle the bitterness of want, with tears for 
 a father who can neither "hear them sigh, nor see them weep," 
 
 It would be nothing more than stiictly correct to add, that from 
 Saeket's Hai bor lo the city of Quebec, is a distance of about 380 
 miles that concentrates more to charm the eye, than can be found 
 upon any equal extent in North America, if not u))on the eartli. 
 The St. Lawrence river aiid islands, tlie shores and rapids, the 
 distant • mountains, the contrast of cultivated and forest land, vil- 
 lages, cities, vessels of great variety of size and form, and the 
 majestic and pellucid river, all form a toiii enseiiii^e, that jan v, ith 
 difficulty find a parallel. 
 
 Returning by the Richelieu river, lake Champlain, and Mudsori 
 river to Albany and Is'ew-York, will complete this truly delightful 
 tour. The following list of stages and distances, svill give more 
 precise ideas of the time necessary to jjei form the foregoing tour-. 
 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Kew-York to Albany,* - - - - 
 
 160 
 
 160 
 
 
 101 
 
 . 261 
 
 
 74 
 
 3:55 
 
 Geneva, 
 
 22 
 
 357 
 
 Canandaigua, - - - - , • - 
 
 16 
 
 37i> 
 
 ■Genesee river, 
 
 ■26 
 
 399 
 
 IJatavia, - 
 
 26 
 
 425 
 
 Buffalo, - . . - , , 
 
 40 
 
 465 
 
 
 45 
 
 5)0 
 
 Erie, - - - - 
 
 45 
 
 5iS 
 
 * I have given the above, because that number of miles is gen^ 
 erally understood to exist between the two cities. The estimate 
 is, however, erroneous ; it is, within a small fraction of a mile, 
 145 wiles from New-York to Albany. * 
 
5il»i *;ENEKAL REMAIIKS. j^AUDKNBA NO. II'.' 
 
 
 .MfLES. 
 
 ^ "* 1 t . To -11 n _ . ^ ■■ 
 
 l^lCSCl<UKlj * " " 
 
 90 
 
 (145 
 
 Sandusky Bay, - - '. - - - 
 
 50 
 
 695 
 
 liass ]s!aiul$, 
 
 16 
 
 711 
 
 Moulli ol' Detroit river, ------ 
 
 23 
 
 734 
 
 Anilierstbiirp, 
 
 5 
 
 . 739 
 
 iin 'i'Rc^i'r r.fTY . - - . 
 
 1 6 
 
 755 
 
 'Tlnti^n ifi TtnfTnln - - ■ « 
 
 290 
 
 1 ,045 
 
 '1 'li^'n^in ^)^ (Itn Italic OT ^ i'liT'ii'n ,» _ _ ^ 
 
 J i.ience i'.' iin^ icino ui j,> iiij^ttiii, * — — — 
 
 21 
 
 i ,066 
 
 ^"^ 1 1 1 kI fi w n 'ttln T .PWI "it I iT 1 - - - - — 
 
 tt, i *• 1 1 ililU J-J^ ^1 I? IV* 1 1 , — — — — — 
 
 
 1 ,073 
 
 
 7 
 
 1,080 
 
 deiicsce river, ------- 
 
 iJrffat Sodus Bay, ^ » - ^ - - - 
 
 74 
 
 1,15 4 
 
 35 
 
 1 ,189 
 
 Dswcgo liver, 
 
 28 
 
 1 ,2 1 7 
 
 '^ripirrM'*; Unrlinr — - - - - • - 
 
 40 
 
 1,257 
 
 (jape \ incent, cuter St. Ija\vrence river, ^ 
 
 20 
 
 1 ,277 
 
 1 < ...^ J' L' 1 1 1 ji 1 'ilio/ii nlt<l 111 J il'l" t w ( <1 IM 11^ _ 
 l>IOCKvIlie. ^-jtllldtlct, tllHl 4 IMIJV 11 HI IJ. o. 
 
 50 
 
 1,327 
 
 (^,v/l/.»iicl»tii'i(ii IT ^ oii/l in 1 * ti 1 1 •* rl _ 
 
 ' / l2;0CIlsI>u 1 II IJ . O. tllKi ilL^CUll 111 ^.^ailuUtlj — 
 
 12 
 
 ! ,339 
 
 TTr^.^iit* filial i\i TTi'oiiil |...itl*ki'» Icrnniltt 
 
 V J ppei eiltl Oi ^-TliiliU OclilUp liSltllHIfc, - ^ - 
 
 5 
 
 1 ,344 
 
 jtjOwer did of tlitto, ------ 
 
 9 
 
 
 T I n 1-11 i If /^n TT ^ - 
 
 .J lailUiUJll, O. - - - - ■ 
 
 10 
 
 1 ,"6.5 
 
 Ooniwail in Oatiada, Sj. Kegis U. S. 45*^ lat. 
 
 35 
 
 1,398 
 
 'vii'^iili'onl 
 
 j^HllJl.l Ctl 1, — - — 
 
 60 
 
 1,458 
 
 .1 III t-C — — — — — — — 
 
 105 
 
 1,563 
 
 
 65 
 
 r,52S 
 
 HetHrii to Montreal, 
 
 i65 
 
 1,793 
 
 
 73 
 
 1,865 
 
 
 178 
 
 2,044 
 
 >;cw-Y(Mk, - - - - 
 
 i60 
 
 2,204 
 
 ' 111 the above taWe, tlic distaiiees sire given ratlicr from public 
 estimates than from real measurement, and are consequently too 
 liigb, by perha-ps nine or ten percent., as is tbe case between 
 ^^ew-York and Albany ; the relative distances I believe to be near 
 ]y correct. 
 
 This fine tour can be made \\jtbin the period of forty days 
 with ample time to see tbe most remarkable objects to be found 
 upon the !oute. Tiie necessary exjiense cannot be go easily es- 
 timated, but would certainly fall, for one person, below three 
 hundred' dollars. The best season of the year would be July and 
 August; though to enjoy the luxury of a Canadian summer, the 
 iraveller must be on 4he St. Lawrence in July and 'fe "irly psrt 
 of August. 
 
ADDENDA so. II.] GOV. CLIXTO.n's MESSAGE. Xl'^ij 
 
 The ncidi css of Governor Clinton, to the legislnturc of the stnte 
 of New-York reached t'he city of New-York, on tiie evening of 
 tlie Till Janiuiry, 1819., Tlie foregoing part of tliis .Addenda was, 
 llien in type, but I considered some jiai t of the Governor's address 
 of so iiiucli iinport, and so relevant to the subject on which tlie 
 Addenda itself was founded, tliat 1 liave taken the liberty to su^ 
 ))eradd the following extracts froni that huninous production. J 
 am the more emboldened to this ])i ocedure, from consideiing the 
 sentiments expressed, and the facts conveyed by that excclletit 
 statesman, as national property. 
 
 " The progress of our internal improvements has equalled our 
 most sanguine expectations, hi tlie course of the next session, 
 the Northern Canal, extending from Wliiteliall at the liead of lake 
 ('haniplain. to Fort Edward, on the Hudson river, a distance of 
 23 miles, and the wlioleof the middle section of the Western Ca- 
 !ial comprising ninety-four miles, and reaching from the Seneca 
 river to the Mohavvk river at Utica, will be conijdeted and in a nae 
 \ igable slate. Thus, in less than two and a half ycar.s. Canals to 
 the extent of one hundred and seventeen niiles will be perfected. 
 And, as the eastern and western .sections of the Canal from lake 
 ]'".rie to Hudson river will be about 260 miles, it is evident that, 
 l)y tlie application of similar means and the exertion of similar 
 ])owcrs, the whole of this intej rial na^'igalion can be finished in 
 six years from the present period, including also the improvements 
 essential on Hudson river, froiii Fort Edwai d to the head of sloop 
 iiavigation. Jt is satisfactory also to know tl»at, so far as we can 
 judge from the l.jghts of experience, the actual expenses have not 
 exceeded the estimates of the commissioners. And, wilh all the 
 fidvantages arising from ciiCi'cased knowledge, from improved skill 
 pnd fioin ciicums])ect experience, we are firmly persuaded, that 
 the aggregate expense will Ail! short of the total estimate. It is 
 ;i^o a. most gratiiying consideration to find, that from, the ])ro- 
 gressive and flourishing state of the fund appropriated to this ob- 
 ject, the whole undertaking can be completed without providing 
 ,any auxiliary resources, and willronl iinposing any. taxes on the 
 .vommunity. From the coninicncement of the next year, tlie fi- 
 jiished portions of the Canals will be in a s-tat,e productive of con- 
 siderable revenue. 
 >• I?y the act respecting navigable coramiuncations between th^ 
 
COV. CLIM'TOw's MEFSAGE. 
 
 [addenda KO. II. 
 
 great wesvterii and northern Jakes and llie Atlantic ocean, passed 
 the 15tli April, 1 8 17, the comixiissioiiers are only empowered to 
 make Canals between the Mohawk and Seneca rivers, and be- 
 tween lake Chaniplain and the Hudson river. Pcssessing, how- 
 ever, under that act, and the act to jirovide tor the improvement 
 of the internal navigation of the state, ))assed the l7lh April, 1816, 
 authority to make the necessary surveys, and to lay out the pro- 
 per routes for the whole of the Western and Northern Canals, 
 they have not overlooked the latter, although their attention has 
 been principally devoted to the former object. By that initiatory 
 arrangement, it was obviously the intention of the Legislature to 
 bring ihe calculations of the commissioners to the touchstone of 
 experiment, and to'determiiie whether the resources of the slate 
 are adequate to the. whole opei ation. 
 
 This trial has taken place in the most satisfactory manner, 
 and there cannot exist a doubt of thp feasibility of the work, or 
 of the ability of the state. It is therefore highly expedient that 
 a law should be passed, during the present session, authorising 
 the completion of the whole work as soon as jjossible. In the 
 course of this year the routes can be then so, far definitively settled, 
 51S to enable the formallon of contracts to take effect in the spring 
 of 1S30, by which means a whole year vsill be saved to the ope- 
 ration, and the state will have the benefit of experienced cont- 
 tractors, who might, under a dilferent state of things, be employ- 
 ed in other undertaldngs. And, when we contemplate the im- 
 mense benefits wh^ch will be derived from the consequent pro- 
 motion of agriculture, manufactures, and commerce — from the. 
 acquisition of revenue^from the establishment of character, and 
 from the consolidation of the federal union, we must fee! ourselves 
 impelled by the most commanding motives, to proceed in our 
 honorable career, by perfecting with all possible expedition this, 
 inland navigation. r 
 
 " At the present period a ton of commodities can be convey- 
 ed from Buffalo to Albany by land for 100, and to Montreal, 
 principally by water^ for 25. Hence it is obvious that the whole 
 oi'the vast I'egion to the west of that. flourishing village, and the 
 greater part of the extensiVe and fertile crfuntry cast of it, are 
 prevented from sending their productions to our commercial 
 emporium, and that they must either resort to the precarious 
 
ADDKNUA NO. Ik] GOV. CLINTOn's MESSAGE. 
 
 markets of Canada, or, to places more distant, less accessible, or 
 less advantageous. When the great western canal is finished, 
 the expense of transportation from Buffalo to Albany, will not 
 exceed ,f 10 a ton. Almost the whole of the ascending trade of 
 the west will be derived fi ora the city of New-York, and a great 
 portion of the descending products will accumulate in that im- 
 portant depot. If half a million of tons are, at the present pe- 
 riod, transported on the waters of the Hudson river, it is reason- 
 able to suppose that the time is not distant, when the commodi- 
 ties conveyed on the Canals will be equal in amount. A small 
 ti-ansit duty will consequently produce an immense income^ ap^- 
 plicable to the speedy extinguishment of the debt contriieted for 
 the Canals, and to the prosecution of other important improve- 
 ment.?. 
 
 " In these works, then, we behold the operation of a powerful 
 engine of finance, and of a prolific source of revenue. 
 
 " It is certainly more important, that the productive classes of 
 society should have good markets, out of the state, than that they 
 should be exclusively confined to indifferent or fluctuating mar- 
 kets in it. In the former ca.se, wealth is diffused over the whole' 
 country, while in the latter, it h limited to a very few towns. A. 
 w'ise government ought to encourage communications with those 
 places, where the farmer and manufacturer can sell at the high- 
 est, and buy at the lowest prices. And, as tlie acquisition of ma- ■ 
 ny markets encreases the chance of good ones, and diminishes-, 
 in many instances, the expenccs of transportation, and guards 
 against the pernicious fluctuations of price, I look forward with 
 pleasure to the speedy arrival of the time, when the state will be 
 able to improve the navigation of the Susquehanna, the Allegany, 
 the Genesee, and St. Lawrence — to assist in connecting the wa- 
 ters of the great lakes and of the Mississippi— to form a junction 
 between the western Canal and lake Ontario by the Oswego river, 
 and to promote the laudable intention of Pennsylvania, to unite 
 the Seneca lake with the head wafers of the Susquehanrra." 
 
 The calculation contained in these extracts, of the time neces- 
 sary to complete the Gi-and Canal between Albany a.id Buffalo, 
 and the canal from the Hudson river to lake Champlain, are 
 founded upon data, that are too well based to admit either refuta- 
 tion or cavil. If the state of Xew-York is loft by the pation at 
 
GOV. Clinton's message. 
 
 large to carry into efTect this mighty project, unaided, and iit 
 some measure opposed ; and should a single statCj thus placed? 
 actually effect such an undertaking, the result will exhibit the most 
 extraordinary instance of the energy of a small part, and the 
 apathy of the residue of the people of tlie United States, that has! 
 yet met tiie eye of mankind. Su<;h an issue, will be glorious in- 
 deed to New- York, but shameful to the nation; it will be a tii- 
 umph of active reason, over inert prejudice. But in such mode* 
 and manner ; in the struggle of science against prescriptive 
 opinion, has the progress of mankind hitherto advanced. The 
 Grand Canal will be an eternal monument erected to the memory 
 of its pfojectors and executors; and the most solacing reflection, 
 that presses upon the mind when contemplating this unequalled 
 change ?nade upon the physiognomy of nature, is', that not one 
 dr;ip of this artificial flood will be drained from the tears of suf' 
 feriiig humanity. When the present generations have passed 
 away, and when the future voyager is wafted along the picturesque 
 vale of the Mohawk, amid all that can decorate tlie earth and de- 
 light the senses, he will recall with unmixed admiration the name.'? 
 of those whoso geniirs procmod such beneficen.ce to the rneu of 
 every passing age'. 
 
AoDENaA ^'O. IHjJ BALLSTQ.V SPiliNOS. 
 
 Na m. 
 
 BALLSTON SPRINGS. 
 
 It was with ranch regret tllat on my return to Alhan}-, I ctiu'U! 
 not spaie time to visit Ballslon. Curiosity to see one of tlie most 
 noted places of public resort in the United States, would have 
 led me to timt village, and ove'r its environs, but calls ofa more 
 imperative nature, deprived me of such a pleasure. The fol- 
 lowing letter contains very satisfactory inforjnation respecting 
 those celebrated waters, and from its source is entitled to full 
 confidence. 
 
 " Ballston-Spa, J\''ovember 27, 1818. 
 
 " SlB, 
 
 " Thr name of Gallslon, though frequently applied to the 
 village at the mincj al springs, bel'ongs in strictness tt) a township 
 about live miles square, (he north boundary of which falls within, 
 and embraces a part of the village ; the principal portion of 
 which lies within the adjacent township of Milton. 
 
 '• This village was incorporated in \ B07, by the name of Balls- 
 ton-Spa, is under the government of three Trustees, annually 
 chosen, and invested with certain privileges, for the better regu- 
 lation of its own peculiar concerns, t^iough for civil purposes gen- 
 erally, a part thereof acts with the town of Ballston, and a part 
 with the town of iMilton. 
 
 " The distinction between Ballston and Ballston-Spa,ought to-be 
 carefully observed by all who have occasion to coi-respond with 
 visitants at these celebrated watej s ; a post-ofiice being establish- 
 ed, not only at this place but also in the town of Ballston, at 
 some distance from the village. A similar olWwra,tion might be 
 made with respect to Saratoga, and Saratoga Springs. 
 
 " The village of Ballston-Spa is in the county of Saratoga, 2S 
 miles north of the city of Alba n\', in a beautiful and romantic 
 situation. It lies within and along side of a vallej-, throuidi 
 which flows a stream of wafer, emptying itself immediately be- 
 low the village, into the Kayadarosseras creek. This valley com- 
 mences at tlse south-west, v.hcre the stream, whicji had previously 
 
BALL&TON SPRINGS. 
 
 [addenBA no. tit,. 
 
 flowed towards tlie south, fetches a short compass round a pohit 
 of land towards the nortli-east, runs some distance in that direc- 
 tion, then turns and passes off towards the east. Tlie valley fol- 
 lows the course of the creek, is narrow at first ; but after it has 
 taken an eastern direction, its north bank suddenly recedes, and 
 forms a beautifitl plain, opening to view the Kayadarosseras and 
 its buildings. The north-west side of the valley is bordered by 
 sand hills, high and very steep. At the south-west cud commen- 
 ces a smooth and gentle ridge of land, which runs east, sloping 
 towards the north, until making a gradual circuity it turns its in- 
 clining surface towards the west. The termination of this slope 
 is the curving bank of the valley along its south-eastern side, on 
 which bank the greater part of the village is built. The high 
 Sand hills on the north-west, the ridge of land on the south and 
 east, with the open plain on the north-east, form the natural boun- 
 daries of the vi llage. 
 
 " This village contains 112 houses, exclusive of out-houses, 
 some of which being attached to taverns and large hotels, are 
 extensive, nnd add considerably to the village. The number of 
 inhabitants is 514. It is a place of considerable business through- 
 out the year ; the lands in the neighborhood, with the exception 
 of the pine plains towards the north, being generally fertile, and 
 the trade of the inhabitants centering heie. There are at pre- 
 sent six large stores for the sale of dry goods and groceries, an 
 extensive hardware and two druggist stores ; two printing offices, 
 and a bookstore, with which is connected, for the accommodation 
 of strangers, a circulating library and a reading room. On the 
 Kayadarosseras, a large and never failing stream, mills for vari- 
 ous purposes, with a cupola furnace have been erected, at a little 
 distance from, and within sight of the village. The court-house 
 for the county of Saratoga is located liere, and is a large brick 
 edifice, newly erected and well built. We have also two houses 
 for public worship, an Episcopal and a Baptist church, in whicii 
 respectable congregations statedly assemble ; likewise an Acade- 
 my, in whicli a numerous aiid ' reputable school is constantK' 
 taught. The inhabitants are intelligent, industrious, frugal, and 
 remarkably temperate. A moderate degree of refinement and 
 fashion prevails. Regnlaiity and good order exist 1.0 a consider-i 
 
ADDEXBA NO..Jt.!.j BALLSTON SPRIN6S. . lili 
 
 able degree, though as to religion and morality, it must be coii- 
 resseil, we fall much below the chfistiaii standard. 
 
 Tiiis place is famous for its mineral waters, which with tlios'e 
 of Saratoga near by, have attracted uiicoimuoii attention, and 
 annually draw great numi>ers from all parts to visit them, in the 
 summer season. Hence in addition to several inns, there are 
 three large boarding houses* expressly designed for the accom- 
 iiiodation of sti-angers, at the season of general resort. The 
 largest of these, the Sans Souci Hotel, will vie with any establish- 
 ment of a similar nature, for the style in wiiich it is keptj and as 
 a spacious, airy, and commodious building. It presents a front 
 three stories iiigh, and ;60 feet in length, extends back in a wing 
 at each end 153 feet, is surrounded by a spacious and beautiful 
 yard, which, with its extensive piazzas, large hall, and spacious 
 assembiy-room, render it a delightful place. Here the rich, gay, 
 and fashionable, resort in crowds, during the months of July and 
 August. It is calculated for the reception of 130 boarders, and 
 frequently exceeds that number. Next to the San Souci, AI- 
 dridge's boarding-house is the most noted. It stands in the val- 
 ley, at the foot of a high sand hill, nearly opposite the public, 
 and formerly the principal spring, and is handsomely bordered 
 on the east and south by a court-3'ard and garden, by the side of 
 which flows the rivulet of the valley. The building itself is not 
 elegant, yet the reputation of the house is deservedly high, and 
 draws to it its fuii sliare of public patronage. 
 
 * Ballston-Spa. — By the Register kept at the Reading Room at 
 Ballston Springs, (says the Commei'cia! Advertiscr)it apyiears th.at 
 the number of persons who have visite;! those Springs, during the 
 past season, ISlS, amounts to two thousand live htnidrod. Of 
 this number more than twelve huiijred, it is stated, Hve south of 
 New-York. It is also slated, that the whole number were accom- 
 iaodated with board and iodijiiig as follows : 
 
 At J. B. Aldridge's 950 
 
 At Sans Souci Held HOC 
 
 At David Cory's 500 
 
 At other houses 250 
 
 Total 2,500 
 
 [ft is fair to calculate that the average expenditure at the 
 above place, was 50 dollars a piece — In this case tlie sum total 
 is 125,000 dollars.] — Gnx. 
 
 y 
 
jiv 
 
 BALLSTO^- SPRISGS. 
 
 [addenda no. in. 
 
 The Ihii'd large baai'ding-house is Corey's, formerly INIrs. 
 White's. It stands at the head of tlie valley, on the ridge of lan(f, 
 whicli rails along the south side of the village. The building and 
 its accommodations rank with Aldridge's, yet being in a situation 
 more i-etired and remote from the springs, though liighly pleasant 
 and agreeable, it is less known and less frequented. 
 
 The existence of this village, is owing entirely to the mineral 
 springs, which in this favored spot, rise up from the bowels of the 
 earth. These, exclusive of a sulphur spring which has attracted 
 little or no attention, were but lately two in number, 'one on the 
 private projierty of Kicliolas Low, Esq. over which he has erec- 
 ted a handsome bathing-house, and the other in the public high- 
 way, nearly opposite AUdridge's boarding-house. According to 
 .Mead's Analysis, which sustains a high reputation, the public 
 well contains in one quart of water : 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Muriat of Soda - - . - 43 
 
 ?.Iuriatof Magnesia ... 1 3.4, 
 
 Muriat of Lime - • - - 3 1-4 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia - - - 113-4 
 
 Carbonate of Lime - - -,-91-4 
 
 Oxide of Iron, - - - - - 1 
 
 Total, 69 
 
 Of aeriform fluids : Cubic Inches. 
 
 Carbonic aicid gas - - - - 6 1 
 
 Azotic gas - - . - 2 1-2 
 
 Total, 63 1-2 
 
 And Low's well contains exactly the same ingredients, in near 
 ly the same quantities. 
 
 " The natural appearance of these springs is curious and pleas- 
 ing; their waters are in continual agitation, are perfectly trans- 
 parent, and have a saline, pungent, and to those accustomed to 
 ihem, a most agreeable taste. They possess a stimulating and 
 refreshing quality. Under the exhaustion of heat and fatigue, 
 nothing can be more agreeable and reviving to the system. As 
 powerful remedies also, in iiiany cases of disease, tliey are well 
 known and highly celebrated. 
 
Addenda no. hi.] 
 
 " These springs, however curious and excellent as they really 
 are, liave been i-ecently eclipsed by a new spring, which little 
 more than a year since burst from the earth. In the month o f- 
 August, 1817, continual rains had swollen the creek, which passes 
 through this place, to a very great lieigi'.t, and preduced a destruc- 
 tive flood. In the centre of the village, the fui-ious stream cut for 
 itself a new course, and a few rods lower down, it again diverted 
 a little from its former channel, which upon the subsiding of the 
 water was left dry. In this deserted ciiannel, which a few years 
 ago had been artificially made for the purpose of turning the 
 creek from its natural course, veins of mineral water were soon 
 discovered issuing up thiough the sand, and Ibrming on the sur- 
 face a large fountain. As the water rose through a deep bed of 
 loose gravel, blue clay, and rpiicksaud, was foul, discoloured, and 
 mingled with large quantities of fresh water ; great dilficultie.'i 
 were apprehended in getting it into a state proper for use. Thi."; 
 object, however, has been liappily accomplished, and in a simple 
 and ea.sy maimer. Two tubes have been forced down to difl'er 
 ent depths, through which rise waters differing considerably in 
 their qualities, and constituting in fact two new springs. Tlie 
 fn st tube was sunk to the depth i.f fourteen feet, is on a level willi 
 the surrounding earth, and being not perfectly tight at the top, 
 never overflows with water. The depth of tbe second tube below 
 the surface of the earth, is twenty-three feet, and into it an addi- 
 tional tube five feet long has been inserted, tlirough the whole of 
 which length, that is, twenty-eight feet, the water rises to the sur- 
 face, boiling and sparkling in the most curious and beautiful man- 
 ner, and falling down in every direction over the sides of llie tube. 
 These springs, especially the latter, it has been proposed to call 
 the Washington fountain ; and. they are commonly distinguished 
 from each other by the descriptive appellations of the low and 
 tlie high tube. ' 
 
 " With ic'gard to the qualities of these waters, I cannot do bet- 
 ter than to make a few extracts from a letter, published in the 
 New- York Evening Post, of the 26th of September last, written 
 by Dr. Mead, to the Editor of that paper. 
 
 ' I have found,' saith he, ' that the Washington fountain (mean-, 
 ing thereby the high tube,) contains more carbonic acid gas, than 
 any other minei-al spring which has ever been examined in this 
 
lyi ballStOn spkinoe. [addenda so. nl- 
 
 comifrv, and certainly much more than any in Europe of which 
 we have any correct account : — one quart of this water, or 55,750 
 cubic inches of it, contains nearly 75 cubic inches of this gas< 
 Tlie adjoining well does not contain any thing like the same quan- 
 tity of gas. 
 
 ' Tlie next valuable qualities which these springs possess, arise 
 from the quantity of iron which they contain, held in solution by 
 the carbonic acid. According to my former analysis of the Ball- 
 .ston and Saratoga vfaters, I never found any of them to contain 
 more than one grain of iron in a quart, but I think I may ven- 
 ture to state, from actual experiments, that the Washington foun- 
 tain contains nearly double that quantity ; but the adjoining 
 spring not quite so much. 
 
 ' With respect to the saline contents of these springs, they do 
 not differ materially in quality from those waters at Ballston, the 
 analysis of which I have given to the public. None of them con- 
 tain sulphats; in this they differ from most mineral waters; their 
 cathartic properties, therefore, are derived principally from the 
 muriat of soda, or conunon salt, with wliich they are impregnat- 
 ed. The Washington fountain, however, contains less of this salt 
 than any of the springs either at Ballston or Saratoga, while the 
 adioining spring contains much more than any of them, except 
 the Congress spring. 
 
 ' The Washington Fountain is so highly charged with carbonic 
 acid gas, and contains also so much iron, that it may be ranked 
 in the first class of tonic remedies; but at the same time, it is one 
 the use of which requires much caution. It possesses all the 
 good qualities which are attributed either to the waters of the 
 Seltzer or Pyrmont^ and some of them in a superior degree. It 
 is superior to the Seltzer or Spa, in containing iron, in which they 
 are both deficient; and it differs materially from the Pyrmoiit, in 
 containing a sufficient quantity of murinte of Soda, to act as a 
 cooling febrifuge, and te counteract, in some degree, the heating 
 nnd stimuiating qualities of the othesr ingredients, which, in some 
 constitutions; would totally forbid the use of them. I have never 
 as yet met with, nor have I lieard of any water that so nearly 
 rese *d)les the waters of German)', as the Washington fountain. 
 It may be drank with great advantage in all cases of general de. 
 bility, where there is great relaxation and loss of tone ; and par- 
 ticularly in diseases of the storaach.' 
 
AiSDENbA NO. m.] 
 
 BALLSTON SPlilNSS. 
 
 Ivii 
 
 " Of the adjoining spiing, that is the low tube, Doctor Mead 
 remarks, tliat it ' has been found to possess very powerful purga- 
 tive qiiahties, and may be considered as a sort of intermediate 
 between the waters of Ballston and Saratoga. It is evidently* 
 even to the taste, more saline than any of the springs at Ballston? 
 or than any, excepting one, at Saratoga ; and I have found by 
 analysis, that it contains nearly one-fiflh more of muriale of 
 soda or common salt, than any other, except that one ; and be- 
 sides, possesses in the same proportion, all the other ingredients, 
 such as carbonate of magnesia, carbonate of lime, and iron. 
 It cannot therefore be doubted, that it becomes a very active pur- 
 gative, sufficiently effectual to answer almost all useful purposes, 
 particularly if drank under proper management, and with due 
 precaution ; the neglect of which will not only prevent the Con- 
 gress water from having the desired effect, but render too free a 
 use of it highly injurious to the system.' 
 
 " Of a place abounding with such invaluable waters, the geol- 
 ogy must be interesting. As that, however, is a science to which 
 I make no pretensions, I beg leave again to refer to Doclor Kead, 
 Yvhose ohsei*va,tions upon this subject, may be found in the intro- 
 ductory part of his chemical analysis of the waters of Ballston 
 and Saratoga, from which the following exti-acts are made. 
 
 ' In the center of the village of i^allston, an excellent oppor-^ 
 tunity is offered of examining the situation of the strata. A 
 small rivulet runs through it, which has laid bare an entire range 
 of flwtz or horizontal rocks, consisting of what niay be called a 
 calcario argillaceous schist or shale. This schist is nearly of a 
 black colour, and from its staining the fingers, would appear to 
 contain a portion of carbon ; it effervesces slightly with acids, 
 which .shews that it also contains carbonate of lime ; it breaks 
 easily into laminfe of any thickness, and impressions of vegeta- 
 bles, chiedy of a species of grass, can be observed between the* 
 laminae ; but when large masses are exposed for any length of 
 time to the atmosphere, it rapidly shivers, or decomposes.' 
 
 ' Alternating with this schist, and near the same place, wh.er- 
 over the beds of sand will admit an inspection of the rock, solid 
 masses of calcareous rocks are observed. This limestone, is near- 
 ly of a black colour, its fracture is slaty, it abounds with shells of 
 various forms, some of which are so veiy appaient in their struc- 
 ture and form, as not to be mistaken. 
 
viii 
 
 BALLS'! ON Sl>lU>i(;S. 
 
 [aodewda Nt). nr. 
 
 ' DesiJes these rocks wliich I have altemptcd to descrlLe, and 
 wliich characterise a secondary country, it is necessaiy to state 
 that those undulating hills which surround the village of Ballston, 
 and which continue to prevail in the village of Saratoga, are 
 fornied principally of immense heds of line sihceous sand, as 
 may be particularly observed in the rear of Aldi id^e's boarding- 
 house, where the height of one of these hills, which is very pre- 
 cipitous, cannot be less than 150 feet; under this sand lies im- 
 mense beds of stiff blue clay, which hardens when left for any 
 time exposed to the atmosphere ; it effervesces slightly, but does 
 not dissolve in acids, from which I should rather call it an argil- 
 laceous marie ; it appears with some pjobability to have bi-eii 
 formed by the decomposition of the schist in the neighborhood j 
 it is to be found by digging in the valleys in any direction, and it 
 can be well observed on the side of a declivity near Lowe's well, 
 where a consicffei'able saline efflorescence can be seen on its sur- 
 face, particularly after rain, owing to the chrystaUization of the 
 salt, which is produced by the sun's rays. This is a very interest- 
 ing fact, and as exactly such a peculiar species of clay is found 
 to prevail in the soil from which the waters of Cheltenham arise, 
 it may tend in some degree to explain from whence waters of this 
 description receive Iheir saline impregnation. 
 
 ' No metallic veins of ore have been discovered in this neigh- 
 borhood in any direction ; and except iron, which is found in all 
 the low grounds, in the state of an argillaceous or bog iron ore, I 
 know of no other metalic deposit.' 
 
 " This village, though now considerable, will probably still in- 
 crease, and receive additional improvements. The waters, with 
 those of Saratoga, are unrivalled, and may be confidently expect- 
 ed todraw increasing crowds of visitants. The new springs are a 
 most valuable acquisition, and contiguous to them is an extensive 
 brick edifice, originally intended as a factory, but now unemploy- 
 ed, which, with capital and enterprise, might be converted into a 
 superb boarding-house, which doubtless would be filled with 
 guests, and prove not only an ornament to the village, but a 
 profitable establishment. 
 
 With sentiments of respect, 
 
 Yours. 
 REUBEN SEARS. 
 
 'iViLlIAJI DASBY. 
 
AdDEXDA NO. IV. i 
 
 J?OUTE,S. 
 
 ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF NEW- YORK TO ST. LOUIS, 
 
 ay HAMILTOX, PITTSr.URO, CINCINNATI, LOUISVILLE, ASD THE OHIO 
 AND MlSSISSrfri ItlVEKS. 
 
 SlLES. 
 
 Newbiirg, 
 Cociieclori, 
 Haiiiiltoii. - 
 PITTSBURG, 
 Steiil)enville, 
 Ciiicinnali, 
 Louisville, 
 IMoutli of Oliio, 
 ST. LOUIS, 
 
 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 120 
 
 394 
 
 354. 
 
 261 
 
 615 
 
 59 
 
 674 
 
 363 
 
 1037 
 
 131 
 
 '1 167 
 
 393 
 
 1560 
 
 19S 
 
 1753 
 
 ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF NEW-YORK TO ST. LOUIS, 
 
 PI ALBANY, liUFB'ALO, BETKOIT, MICHfLIMAKlNAC, LAKE MICHIGAN, 
 ILLINOIS, AND MISSISSIPPI BIVEES. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Albany, - - ' - 
 Caiiandtugua, - 
 Buiralo, 
 
 Erie, . . - 
 Cleveland, - - - 
 DETROIT, - -■ 
 Fort Gratiot, 
 Michiliniakinac, 
 Mouth of Chicago river. 
 Head of Illinois do. 
 Mouth of do. - 
 ST. LOUIS, - 
 
 
 160 
 
 213 
 
 373 
 
 92 
 
 465 
 
 9© 
 
 555 
 
 <J0 
 
 645 
 
 no 
 
 755 
 
 67 
 
 822 
 
 190 
 
 1012 
 
 280 
 
 1392 
 
 40 
 
 1332 
 
 400 
 
 1732 
 
 30 
 
 1762 
 
 It will be at once seen by an inspection of this table, that tlie 
 difference in distance, by the two routes, is trifling ; and, all things 
 considered, no great diversity exists naturally in the facility offer- 
 ed, or impediments opposed to mercantile transportation; but 
 with the Grand Canal from Albany to BuffirfO; t^ic af1v.?,ntajjc$ are 
 obviouslvin favor of tire northern route- 
 
3 M 2) S So 
 
 JVote, ad. signifies Addenda. 
 
 Jl. 
 
 Jihinoj point 1 7 l , note 1 72. 
 
 Albany, autjior arrives tliere, p, 
 9 ; aspect of the country be- 
 tween and Kinderliook, p. 34. 
 35 ; fine view of, ib. 
 
 Mlouettes, Point des, 97, note. 
 
 Amherstburg, p. 101, note; de- 
 scribed, 193. 
 
 Amsterdam, village of, p. 45. 
 
 Andre, Major, p. 14. 
 
 Arnold, General, p. 14. 
 
 Asktahula river, 209. 
 
 Ailmis, village of, p. 27. 
 
 Auburn, village of, 212, 2 1 8 ; cen- 
 sus of, ib. note; state prison 
 at, 218. 
 
 Audrain, Peter, Register of the 
 land office at Detroit, supplies 
 the author with a manuscript 
 map of part of the Michigan 
 territory, 191. 
 
 Batavia, village of, 154. 
 
 Ballston, road to, 44. 
 
 Spa, li. ad. 
 
 Bay de JYivernois, now Sacket's 
 Harbor, 70. 
 
 Chaumont, 71. 
 
 BoTclay, Commodore, defeated 
 by Commodore Perry, 2 1 1 
 
 Bass Islands, 184, 185. 
 
 Black river, at Watertown, 68 : 
 at Brownville, 69 ; its rapidi- 
 ty, ib. 
 
 Black Rock, 138. 
 
 Bloomfield, village of, 152 ; coun- 
 try near, its features, 153. 
 
 Bois Blanch Island, 193. 
 
 Booth's Factory, 2 ! . 
 
 Bouchette, Mi-. Joseph, quoted, 
 86, 87, 92, 1 16, 203, 205. 
 
 Boundary line, between the Uni- 
 ted States, and Upper Canada, 
 proceedings on, 87. 
 
 Breck, Mr. Samuel, i38. 
 
 Brid.s^e, over Wappinger's creek, 
 20. 
 
 over Kinderhook creek, 
 
 30. 
 
 over the Mohawk river, 
 
 at Schenectady, 43. 
 
 over west Canada, 54. 
 
 over Deer river, 66. 
 
 over Black river at Wa- 
 
 tertown, 68 ; at Brownville, 
 69. 
 
 at the Falls of Niagara, 
 
 166. 
 
 over Cayuga lake, 2 1 5. 
 Briggs, Mr. Isaac, information 
 obtained from, respecting the 
 Little Falls, 49 ; gives the au- 
 thor the latitude of Utica, and 
 the variation of the magnetic 
 needle at that village, 55 ; let- 
 ter from hitii respecting the 
 Grand Canal, Ixi. ad. 
 Brock, General, his death, 169. 
 Brockville, town of, 7, 105 notC; 
 
 107 note. 
 Brown, General Jacob, his resi- 
 dence, 69 ; wounded, 169 ; his 
 military career, where com- 
 menced, xliv. ad. 
 Brown, Samuel R., quoted 203. 
 Byron, Lord, quoted, 164 note. 
 Buffalo, village of, 137, 155; 
 
 I 
 
KNDEX. 
 
 G/(iek nemr, 156; harbor of, 
 ib. 157 ; destroyed, 170 ; road 
 from Fort George to, 170 ; 
 farther reflections upon its 
 harbor, 17 i. 
 Btirgoyne, General, his march 
 towards Albany, 24 ; surren- 
 ders his army, 25. 
 
 c. 
 
 Caimda creek, east, 47. 
 
 creefc, west, 53. 
 
 Upper, province of, 74 ; 
 
 observations and reflections on 
 76, 87 ; its climate misunder- 
 stood, 121. 
 Canal, between Seneca lake and 
 Tioga river, 136 note. 
 
 grand, in the state of 
 
 New- York, 1 60, xxxiv. ad- 
 
 by Cbatauque lake, 173., 
 
 Capt. Alden Partridge, 26, 
 note ; where seen to most ad- 
 vantage, 26 ; covered with 
 Snow, May 3d, 1813,27 note ; 
 seen from Columbiaville, 31 ; 
 from Albany, 35 ; from Troy, 
 36 ; their pecuhar range, 226. 
 Caterskill Falls, 33. 
 Cayuga creek, 155. 
 
 village, 214. 
 lake, 215. 
 bridge, ib. 
 
 Cuyahoga livei; 178. 
 Cazenovia creek, 1 5 6. 
 
 village, 212, 220. 
 
 Chatttuqite lake, 175. 
 Cliamwnt, Mr. Ray de, quoted,64 
 note. 
 
 bay, 71. 
 
 Chenal Ecarte, 202', 205. 
 Chenanso river, 220, 22 1 
 
 Canadawuy, 174. 
 CVmanrfaig-Mfl, village of, 131 ; de-|C/ierr)/"FaZ/ey, village of, 212» 
 scribed, 133; population, ib\ 222. 
 
 note; road from to Bitiralo,lcftiypeJi'ci river, 160; battle of^ 
 
 revisited by the au- 
 observations upon, 
 
 212, 215 
 thor, 2 1 
 213. 
 
 lake of, 131, 13.3, 134. 
 
 CavMrds, riviere aux, 193 
 Cufe Rosier, 1 1 2. 
 Cflss, Governor, 196; concludes 
 a treaty with several Indian 
 tribes, ib. note. 
 Carthage, curiosity near, 123. 
 Cataract, of Caterskill, 33. 
 
 — of the Cohoes, 38. 
 
 — Little Falls, 48. 
 
 — Niagara, 101, 151, 169 
 
 — of V elino, description of, 
 
 by Lord Byron, quoted, 164 
 note. 
 
 of Seneca outlet, 214. 
 
 ■ — near Ithaca, 215 note. 
 
 Cattaraugus ci/-eek, 15 6. 
 Catshill, village of, 27, 32. 
 ' • ■ mountains, (Catsbergs) 
 17 ; fine view of, from RfiinC' 
 beckj 24 ; their elevation by 
 
 169 ; river described, 203. 
 Claverack creek, 29, 30. 
 Cleveland, village, 178, 179. 
 Clinton, Governor, his inaugural 
 discourse, 42 ; description of 
 the Little Falls, 48 ; extracts 
 from his address, xlviii. ad. 
 Columbiaville, SO ; scenery near, 
 31. 
 
 Cunningham'' s Island, 179. 
 B. 
 
 Banbury, township or peninsula, 
 
 181. 
 Beer river, 66. 
 Betroit,r\\&: of, 99. 
 
 city of, 100 note, 137, 
 
 187, 200. 
 Dunkirk, bay and harbor descri- 
 bed, 173; prospects of future 
 prosperity, 176. 
 Dutchess county, N. Y. its as- 
 pect, 17 ; timber in imprudent- 
 dently destroyed, 18, 19; its 
 extent and population^! 9. 
 
E. 
 
 Eddij's map of the state of New- 
 York, 134. 
 , Erie, town of, 210 ; harbor, ih. 
 -— — — lake of, 100 note ; storms 
 on, ib. ; extent and quantity 
 of water in, 117; destructive 
 storm on, 171 note; dangers 
 of its navigation, 172; dis- 
 tance from lake Huron, 191. 
 fort, 168, 170 
 
 Essex county, Upper Canada, 
 
 194, 195. 
 
 Esopus, see Kingston. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fall creek, 215. 
 Falls of St. Mary, 94. 
 
 of Niagara, 101, 160. 
 
 — i of Montmorency, 112. 
 
 in Fall creek, 215 note. 
 
 Fairport, village of, at the mouth 
 
 of Grand river, 177 
 Fire lands, tenure of from what 
 derived, 181 ; now forms part 
 of Huron county, i&. 
 Flax, its culture in Canada, ad 
 
 xvi. xix. 
 Fislikill landing, 12. 
 
 mountains, passage of the 
 
 Hudson river through, 9, 10 
 their component parts, 1 1 
 note ; their height measured 
 by Capt. Alden Partridge, 1 1 
 note, 12 ; scenery, 14. 
 Fredonia, formerly Canadaway 
 174. 
 
 French of Canada, tlieir charac- 
 ter, 85. 
 
 G. 
 
 Oelder, Dr. Van, liis poem upon 
 
 Fort Putnam, ! 3 note. 
 Genesse river, 153 ; flats of, ib. 
 Geneva, village of, 139; descri 
 
 bed, 130; revisited by the au- 
 
 thor, 212, 213. 
 Goat Island, 165 note. 
 Gonrlay, Mr. Robert, reflections 
 
 upon his operations in Upper 
 
 ' Canada, 75 : proceedings ro- 
 specting, in the provincial le- ' 
 gislature, 77 ; observations on, - 
 ib. 
 
 Grand, or Ouse river in U. C. 
 
 described 100 note, 177, 203. 
 Grand Island, in Niagara rivery, 
 
 158, 159 note. 
 Grand Gallop Islands, 106 note ; 
 
 described, !24. 
 Granger, Mr. Gideon, 213. 
 Gratiot, Fort, 200. 
 Greene, General, 14. 
 Greene county, 32, 33. 
 Gras Isle, in Detroit river, de- 
 193. 
 H. 
 
 Hamilton, village of, on St. Law- 
 rence river, 87. 
 
 village of, on Allegany 
 
 river, 7, 140. 
 Harrison, General, reconquers 
 Michigan territory, 187} de- 
 feats General Proctor, ib.; a- 
 gain, 211. 
 Hawkins, Colonel Samuel, his 
 fete champetre, on one of the 
 St. Lawrence islands, 106 
 note. 
 
 Haines, C. G. esq. correspon- 
 dence with the auihor, 135, 
 ISO. 
 
 Hen and C/jicfcens, islaj"- ds, 186. 
 Herkimer village, 54. 
 Highlands, a term used for the 
 passage of the Hudson river 
 through the Fishkill moun- 
 tains, 20. 
 History, reading of neglected i*i 
 the United States, 22 ; lessons 
 drawn from, 80, 81. 
 Hudson river, its aspect in winter 
 S ; its passage through the Fish- 
 kil! mountains, 9, 10, 11 ; did 
 not always flow into New- 
 York bay, 1 1 ; creeks of, 30 ; 
 peculiar features of its banks, 
 
 28, 29, 
 
I.VOEX. 
 
 Hudson, town of, 27, 28, 29 
 Hull, General, reflecUons upon 
 his operations in the Micliigan 
 territory, 1 
 
 fli(ro« river, in the state of Ohio, near compared to that upon 
 1 82. the gulf of Mexico, 209. 
 
 Mexican gulf , 209. 
 Michigan lake, 95, 108, 117. 
 peninsula, 9G note, 
 territorj', 96 note; popit- 
 
 of lake Erie, 201. 
 
 of lake St. Clair, 202 
 
 lake, 95 ; communication 
 
 between and lake Ontario, 98, 
 99 note ; extent and quantity 
 of water, 117; distance from 
 lake Erie, 191. 
 
 i. 
 
 Ithaca, village of, 216 niote. 
 K. 
 
 Kinderfiook creek, 29, 33. 
 
 vilkge of, 33,' 34. 
 
 Kingston, town of, in Upper Ca 
 nada, 97 note; 104. 
 
 village of, 24 ; taken and 
 
 burnt by the British, ib. , pre 
 
 sent slate of, 25 ; situation, ib. 
 Kirk Mercein, Booksellers o( Mountains, Fishkill, ll,andse- 
 
 the city of New- York, their 
 edition of Cuvier's theory of 
 the Earth, 1 1 note ; 42. 
 L. 
 
 Lakes and rivers compared, 108 
 note. 
 
 Latfs map of the slate of New- 
 York, 134. 
 
 Little Falls, 48 ; description of, 
 by Gov. Clinton, ib. note ; sce- 
 nery near, 49, 52; changes 
 that this cataract has under- 
 gone, 52. 
 
 Louisville, town of, 137. 
 
 Lyons village, 129, 131. 
 M. 
 
 Maitland, Sir Peregrine, Gover 
 nor of Upper Canada, proceed- 
 ings of, respecting Mr. Robert 
 Gourlay, 77 
 
 Maiden, 193. 
 
 Mnmifactures, American, disad-'- 
 vantages opposed to, 16,21,22 
 
 dian name for Fishkill, 16 
 note ; scenery on, ib.; Sclienck's 
 factory on, 1 6. 
 Mauniee bay, 208, 209 ; country 
 
 lation of, "1 97, 200; geological 
 structure, 198, 199; settle- 
 ments in, 200 ; cUmate, ib. 
 Mingan settlement, 112. 
 Mississippi rirer, contrasted with 
 the St. Lawrence, 88, 90, 91, 
 92. 
 
 Mohawk river, 42, 48, and se- 
 quel ; valley of near Utica, 
 57; its features, 225. 
 Montreal, city of, elegance of its 
 site, 109 no(e; population of, 
 ib. ; noticed, 1 37. 
 
 quel. 
 
 Catskill, (Catsbergs) 17;' 
 
 seen from Hudson, 29 ; from 
 Columbiaville, 31 ; from Alba- 
 ny, 35 ; from Troy, 35. 
 Murder creek, 154. 
 
 JS". 
 
 Mhtchitoches, 1 37 ; compared 
 with Detroit, 190; noticed. 
 137. 
 
 JVewburg, its site, 10, 12. 
 J^ew-Orleans. ship of the line on 
 the stocks at Sacket's Harbor, 
 observations on, 71, 72. 
 city of, U5, 189. 
 
 JVew-Fork, seasons at compared 
 
 to those at Albany, 9. 
 JYiagara, cataract of, described 
 by Mr. Bouchette, 101. 
 by the author of this trea- 
 tise, 160, 169. 
 river, 102. ' 
 
 — foi'N 1 ''0. 
 
 Mateowan,' ^ctory at, ie ; Ir.- Jformrttis Kill, '227. 
 
INCEX. 
 
 Ogdmsbiirgk, village of descri 
 bed, T, 73, 74, 87, 106. 
 
 Ogden's Island, 87, 12 1. 
 
 ..Ogilvie, Colonel, his observations 
 lespecting the St. Lawieiice 
 and Ottawa rivers, 93 note, 96 
 note. 
 
 Ohio river, contrasted with the Prescoif, town of, 7, 107 note. 
 
 St. Lawrence, 74, 14-5. 
 ■ state of, boundary hctweer 
 
 Proctor, General, defeRted by 
 General Harrison, 211. 
 
 and Pennsylvania, 177; range Pjiiwtni cminty, 14; taken from 
 
 of the Erie ridge through, 1 8 
 
 Olean, or Hamilton, on the Alle- 
 gany river, 145 ; transit of 
 merchandise between and the 
 city of New-York, ih. note. 
 
 Ontario, kike, 102 ; its depth, 103 
 104, 108 note-s; noliced 109 
 note, 127; recession of, 128 
 note; noticed, 129; interest- 
 ing features of, xliv. ad. 
 
 Oppenkeim, village of, 47. 
 
 Orleans, islajid of, 1 13. 
 
 , New, Git3', 145, 189. 
 
 Oswego river, 104, 2 17. 
 
 Ottawa river, S3, 97, note. 
 
 Utisco take, 220, 22 1. 
 
 Owasco lake, 2 18. 
 
 Ouse or Grand river, 177, 203. 
 P. 
 
 J'alatim, village of, 46. 
 
 I'ainesville, village of, 178. 
 
 Partridge, Capt. A Idea, meas- 
 ures the height of Fishkil 
 inouMtains, 1 1 note ; those of 
 the Catsbergs, 26 note; some 
 others, ih. 
 
 Peninsula, between Sandusky and 
 
 Pike, Geueral, his grave, xliv, ad. 
 Pitte lands upon the Hudson, 33, 
 34 ; compared with those of 
 Louisiana, Alalrama, and Mis- 
 sissippi, ih. j their sterile as- 
 pect, 38. ' 
 Pouf^hkeepsie, town of, 21; 
 Booth's factory at, ib. 
 
 Dutchess, 1 y. 
 
 Gen«ral, 1 5. 
 
 — fort, its situation, 
 
 13: 
 
 Dr. Van Gaidar's poem upon, 
 13 note; its scenery, 14, 15. 
 Put-in-bay, 100 note, 185, 186. 
 
 ^■ 
 
 quebec, city of, 102, 112, 127. 
 ({tieenstown, 102. 
 
 heights of, 203. 
 
 li. 
 
 Raisin, or Grape river, 201. 
 Kliinebeck, village, 23. 
 Ridife, between lake Erie, and 
 Oliio waters, 173; its elevation, 
 175; visible near the mouth 
 of Grand river from the en- 
 trance into Sandusky bay, 179; 
 its range through the state of 
 Ohio, 182; through the state 
 of New-YoVk, 217, 224. 
 Rivers, Ottawa, MusquinOnge, 
 St. Maurice, St. Anne, Jacques 
 Cartier, Saguenay, IJetsiami- 
 tcs, Manacouagan, 93. 
 ilivers a7ul lakes, their features, 
 108 note. 
 
 Portage rivers, and extending iiojigp, riviere, 201. 
 lietween Sandusky bay and the Route from New- York to St. Lou- 
 
 Ba.ss Islands, 179; described, 
 180,18 1. 
 Perry, Conimndore, 171 note; 
 captures a ISritisli squadron on 
 lake Erie, 185 ; the vessels of 
 hotJi fleets tiow hi Erfe trsrhor, 
 211. 
 
 is by Pittsburg, &c. lix. ad. 
 
 by Detroit, &c. lix.. ad. 
 
 from New-York to De- 
 troit, and down the St. Law- 
 rence, to Quebec, and retarti 
 to New-Yoik, xlv. ad. 
 ■Rutland, village, 67. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 8. 
 
 Sachet's Harbor, 5 6 ; country be^ 
 tween and Utica, 57, 70 ; re- 
 view at, 72 ; country between 
 and the Thousand islands^ 73 ; 
 jiiihtary works at, 104 note; 
 grave of General Pike, xliv. 
 ad. ; views near, ib. 
 
 Saguenay river, 93 ; described. 
 97 note. 
 
 Smidwich, Upper Canada, 194, 
 )95. 
 
 Sandusky hay, 180 ; described, 
 181. 
 
 village lof, 185. 
 
 Schenck's factory on the Mate- 
 
 owan, (Fishklil) 16. 
 • Schenectady, village of, its dis- 
 tance from Albany, 39 ; inter- 
 mediate country, ih. ; situation 
 of) 40 ; surprised by the sava- 
 ges, ib. ; Union College at, 41. 
 
 Schoharie creek, enters the Mo- 
 hawk river, 45 ; described, 227. 
 
 Schlosser, fort, 1 60 
 
 Scott, General Winfield, visits 
 Sacket's Harbor, 72 ; wounded, 
 169. 
 
 Seneca, lake, 213; outlet of, 2 14. 
 
 river, 217. 
 
 Shawangunk, mountain, 20. 
 Sinicoe, lake, 97. 
 Sisters Islands, 186. 
 Skeneateles, lake, 319. 
 Synith's Gazetteer of Uppjer Ca^ 
 
 nada, quoted, 203. 
 Sodus bay, described, 126. 
 Spajford's Gazetteer, quoted, 32, 
 
 33. 
 
 Steam-boats, their arrangement 
 defective, 9 ; VValk-in-the- Wa- 
 ter, 173 note. 
 
 St. Clair, river, 99. 
 
 lake, 191. 
 
 St. Francis, lake, 107, 108, 124 
 
 St. Lawrence, river of, 73 ; con- 
 trasted with the Mississippi, ib. 
 its real commencement, ib 
 
 commerce upon, 76 ; compa- 
 red to the Hudson, 88, 89 ; 
 table of the surface drained by, 
 89; contrasted with the Mis- 
 sissippi, 88; noticed, 90, 91, 
 92, 106 note, 107 note; excel- 
 lent ship navigation in, lOS' 
 note ; compared with the Oro- 
 noco and Plate rivers, i6. ; Con- 
 trasted with the Amazon and 
 Mississippi, 109 note; beauty 
 of its islands, ib. note; effect 
 of frost on, IIS, 116; compa- 
 red with the Hudson, Delaware, 
 Susquehanna, Rio da la Plate, 
 and Elbe, 116; quantity of 
 water in enormous, 117; tim- 
 ber on its shores, 120 ; features 
 of its banks where visited by 
 the author, 119; islands in 
 contrasted with those in the 
 Mississippi, 123 ; navigation of 
 between Montreal andOgdens- 
 burgh, 125 ; between Ogdens- 
 burgli and Kingston, 125. 
 
 valley of, its natural ad- 
 
 vantages, 205 ; climate, 206. 
 St. Regis, Indians claim the right 
 
 of soil to the St. Lawrence 
 
 islands, 125. 
 Sii^ar river, 66. 
 Super ior, lake, 93; extent and 
 
 quantity of water, 117. 
 Susquehanna river, 223. 
 
 r. 
 
 Tahle of the area drained by the 
 St. Lawrence, 89 ; by the Mis- 
 sissippi, 90. 
 
 of the extent and quanti- 
 
 ty of water in the Canadian 
 sea, 1 17. 
 
 ■ of the stationary distan- 
 
 ces from lake Erie to lake 
 
 Huron, 191. 
 Table Rock, near the Falls of 
 
 Niagara, 156 note, 212. 
 Thames river, U. C. 100 not* ; 
 
 described, 202. 
 
INOKX. 
 
 Xtiousand Islands, described, 74 ; 
 
 their termination, 74; noticed, 
 
 105 note. 
 Tomewanta creek, its character. 
 
 154, ift.; described, i59. 
 Toronto cliffs, 103. 
 Treaty with several nations of 
 
 savages, 195 note. 
 Trenton, village of, 63 ; adjacent 
 
 country, ib. 
 Tripes Hill, 45. 
 Troup, Colonel Robert, 1 30, 
 Troy, village of, 36 ; situation of, 
 
 ib. ; in what manner built, 37; 
 
 its environs, 38. 
 Turkey Island, in Detroit river, 
 
 193. 
 
 U. 
 
 Utica, village of, 43 ; country be- 
 tween and Albany, ib. and se- 
 quel; occupies the site of Fort 
 Schuyler, 55 ; latitude, ib. ; 
 population of, 55 ; roads from, 
 ib. 
 
 Union College at Schenectady, 
 41. 
 
 r. 
 
 Valleys of the St, Lawrence and 
 Mississippi, 138 note; compa- 
 red, 139. - 
 
 Venice village, 184. 
 
 View near Utica, 57. 
 
 from Newburg, 1 1. 
 
 ■ from West Point, 12. 
 
 from Fort Putnam, 14. 
 
 along the Hudson, 20. 
 
 , of the CatsbergSj from 
 
 Rhinebcck, 24. 
 
 View from Kingston, 26. 
 
 from Hudson village, 29. 
 
 from Columbiaville, 31. 
 
 near Albany, 35. 
 
 near Troy, 36. 
 
 of the countrj' adjacent to 
 
 Schenectady, 39. 
 -— near Utica, 57. 
 
 — near Geneva, 130. 
 
 — near Canandaigua, 131. 
 
 — of theFalls of Niagara, 164. 
 from Queenslown heights, 
 
 158. 
 
 — from the mountains near 
 the village of Cherry Valley, 
 22'3. 
 
 — of Sacket's Harbor, xliv. ad. 
 of the grave of Gen. Pike, ib, 
 
 fr. 
 
 fFappinger's creek, 19. 
 Washington, General, 14. 
 fVatertoivn, 67; adjacent coun- 
 try, ib. 
 
 Waik-in-the- Water, steam-boat, 
 173, ib. note; her first trip 
 from Buffalo to Detroit, 173 
 note ; return to Buffalo, 207. 
 
 Waterloo,. \i\\sige. of, 212. 
 
 West Foint, 12; its local, 13; 
 its scenery, 14, 15; students 
 at, their seclusion, 15. 
 F. 
 
 Fates, Mr. liis interesting Iiistory 
 
 of Canandaigua, 132. 
 Fork, city of, in Upper Canada^ 
 seat of government thete, 98. 
 
 THE END, 
 
ADDENDA NO. v.] SRAKD CANAL. 
 
 NO.V. 
 
 The following vei-y valuable letter came to hand this morning, 
 ^Wednesday. January 20th.) I rejoice to have it in my power to 
 include its contents in ray Addenda. Those persons who are ac- 
 quainted with Mr. Briggs, will appreciate the information thus con- 
 veyed on the interesting subject of internal improvements, the 
 more, as little doubt can be harbored as to the judgment, and no 
 suspicion can be fostered against the veracity of the author. 
 
 W. D. 
 
 « Albany, \st mo. 1819. 
 
 My esteemed Fkienh, 
 
 I duly received, at the village of Herkimer, thy favor of 22d 
 ult. requesting information of the actual state and progress of 
 the work on the Canals of the state of New- York, and that I would 
 promptly answer the following queries : 
 
 ' 1st. How much of the Canals is actually completed f 
 
 ' .2d. What places are connected by the parts which are finished ? 
 
 ' 3d. The names of the Engineers employed, and where ? 
 
 < 4th. Any other circumstances that you may deem of impor- 
 tance respecting the Canals ?' 
 
 " At the time I received thy letter I was engaged, almost night 
 and day, in making laborious calculations for a detailed report to 
 the Board of Canal Commissioners ; and, fearing that the short 
 space of time until this report ought to be presented would scarcely 
 admit of my doing justice to the subject, I requested my friend 
 David Holt to make to thee my apology, for the delay of my 
 answer, which I found to be unavoidable. I now embrace with 
 pleasure the first opportunity, -which my arduous duties have 
 permitted, to answer thy queries. . 
 
 " 1 mo. Portions of the Canals amounting to 65 miles are actu- 
 ally completed — 46 1-2 miles of the Western, and 18 1-2 miles of 
 the Northern ; 15 miles more are half done, and there is as much 
 >vork performed on the remaining parts, as is quite equal to the 
 finishing of those 15 miles, making an aggregate equal to 80 miles 
 of ftnislied Canak 
 
Ixii GRAND CANAL. [ADDENDA NO. V. 
 
 " 3do. No important places are yet connected by the parts 
 finished, on account of some works not completed crossing 
 Streams in the Western, and locks in the Northern Canal. But, 
 in the course of next season, Whitehall on lake Champlain, will 
 be connected with Fort Edward on Hudson's river, b^ 23 miles 
 of Canal ; and the salt-works at Onondaga with Utjca on the 
 Mf^bawk, by 60 miles. Between Utica and Onondaga, the Canal 
 passes inexhaustible beds of the finest gypsum ; so that, unless 
 the weather should be beyond probability unfavorable, or some 
 other improbable occurrence, 83 miles of Canal will, before the 
 close of next season, begin to yield revenue. 
 
 " Stio. The Engineers are Benjamin Wright, James Gedda?, 
 and Isaac Briggs ( Canvass White, James Ferguson, Valentine 
 Gril!, and Asa Jloore, have also been employed. I believe Canvass 
 White has been placed in the rank of Engineer, and James Fer- 
 guson still remains an assistant. Valentine Gill has been em- 
 ployed as a Draftsman, and Asa Moore as Surveyor. During the 
 late season Wright and White have been employed on the middle 
 section of the Western Canal ; Geddes and Ferguson on the 
 Northern ; and Briggs, Gill, and Moore, in exploring and locating 
 the Canal and its locks, on the Eastern section, from Utica down 
 the valley of the Mohawk. 
 
 " 4to. In my answer to the 2d query, I have said, that 83 
 miles of Canal will, before the close of next season, begin to yield 
 revenue. I will here add, that, in fair probability, the season 
 after next, (1820,) may commence with an active navigation on 
 1 !7 miles of Canal ; and, if the legislature should, at their present 
 session, authorise the whole of the Western Canal to be made as 
 speedily as it can be economically done, there may be, at the close 
 of 1820, many miles more in great forwardness, and the whole 
 Canal may be finished, before the close of 1825, as easily as, and 
 at a smaller expense, than in any longer period. 
 
 " By a sound and prudent fiscal management, no burdens on the 
 people, beyond the present taxes, and these only for one year 
 more, will be necessary to accomplish this noble work. 
 
 '•'When the expense of agreat project is previously estimated, it, 
 usually happens that, after the thing is finished, the actual ex- 
 pense greatly exceeds the estimate. In the whole work liitherto 
 done, the contrary is found to be the fact, and an, animating fact 
 
ApOElfDA NO. v.] 
 
 GllAiNB CANAL. 
 
 Ixiii 
 
 it is, the actual expense falls considerably sliort of tlie general 
 estimate made in 1817, when the subject was proposed to tlie 
 legislature. Although experience alTorded such eneourageinent 
 in the middle section, yet there remained doubts respecting the 
 Eastern section, where probably the greatest difficulties exist. I 
 have, during the late season, carefully and minutely examined 40 
 miles of this section, which portion includes some of the principal 
 difficulties, and it is my decided opinion, that this portion of the 
 Canal can be made for an expense averaging 15 per cent, or 2,700 
 dollars per mile, less than the estimate of the Commissioners. 
 
 I have said that, after one j'ear more of the present taxes, no 
 burdens on the people will be necessary for the Canal. Suppose 
 no more than 120,000 tons to be transported in one year, a dis- 
 tance of 1 1 7 miles, at a toll of 1 cent per ton per mile, this would 
 yield 140,400 dollars, the interest of 2,340,000, at 6. per cent. 
 Every succeeding year would add more freight, and bring into, 
 use an additional portion of Canal. The consequences are so 
 obvious, that I am persuaded it is unnecessary to pursue further 
 the calculation. A stimulus to useful industry and an increase 
 of individual happiness — the extension and enlargement of all 
 the resources of the state*— an accelerated augmentation of its 
 population, weaWi, and power — and, instead of burdens, an abun- 
 dant revenue ; these would be the consequences of a liberal and 
 enlightened policy. 
 
 " Respectfully, thy friend, 
 
 "I.SAAC BRIGGS, 
 
 "William Dajiby."