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AN 
 
 ITINERARY OF HOKKAIDO, 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 BY THE 
 
 REV, JOHN BATCHELOR. 
 
 Compiler of ‘An Ainu- English- Japanese Dictionary' 
 Author of ‘An Ainu Grammar' Transliterator of the 
 ‘Nippon Seikokai Kit oh an,' Author of ‘ Specimens 
 of Ainu Folklore ,’ ‘ Notes on the Ainu’ 
 
 ‘ The Ainu of Japan,' etc., etc. 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 THE HAKODATE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE TO 
 VISITORS OF THE COLUMBIAN EXHIBITION 
 HELD AT CHICAGO, U. S. A. IN 1893. 
 
 TOKYO: 
 
 PRINTED AT THE TOKY'O TSUKIJI TYPE FOUNDRY, 
 1893. 
 

 • •> , 
 
 - 
 
 ' 
 
PBEFACE. 
 
 HE production of this little book was not a self- 
 
 -i- imposed task, but was undertaken at the special 
 request of the Hokkaido Chamber of Commecre. This 
 fact will, it is hoped, be taken as an apology for its 
 appearance. When honoured with the invitation to write 
 a work on Hokkaido, I confess that I felt some diffidence 
 in undertaking the task, especially when I learned that it 
 was to be given to those visitors of the “ World’s Fair ” 
 who should inspect the Hokkaido section of that grand 
 exhibition, but more particularly as my first and chief 
 duties have to do with Missionary work among the Ainus 
 and not with book-making for English readers. But when 
 I found that the work required of me consisted for the 
 most part in arranging, condensing, and copying notes I 
 already had in manuscript, thus involving but a trifle of 
 my time, I considered it to be my duty not to lightly set 
 aside a request issuing from so important a body of 
 gentlemen as the Hakodate Chamber of Commerce. 
 Hence the appearance of the work. The instructions given 
 me by that body consisted merely in two things ; first, to 
 give a brief geographical outline of Hokkaido, and secondly, 
 to write a short itinerary for the use of intending visitors 
 to this part of Japan. In every case therefore I have 
 endeavoured to be as concise as clearness and justice to 
 the subject would permit. My best thanks are due to the 
 officers of the Do-cho for the assistance kindly rendered 
 
11 
 
 me in the matter of statistics ; to Dr. Miyabe for his 
 kindness m assisting me in the matter of flora, and to 
 Mr. Kodera for kindly helping- me in the subject of 
 zoology. 1 he Hakodate Chamber of Commerce, however, 
 is in no way responsible for any of the shortcomings of 
 this work : they are my own entirely. 
 
 JOHN BATCHELOR. 
 
 Satporo, January 1893. 
 
AN 
 
 ITINERARY OF HOKKAIDO, 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 BY THE REV. J. BATCHELOR. 
 SECTION I. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON HOKKAIDO. 
 
 i. — G eography. 
 
 The Islands of Hokkaido,* whose productions are exhibited in 
 this section of the World’s Fair, form the northernmost limits 
 of the Empire of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of the “Land 
 of the Rising Sun.” The islands consist of two special divisions, 
 a greater and a lesser. The greater division comprises one large 
 island somewhat resembling a ray-fish in shape, and covers, 
 according to the latest survey returns, an area of some 34,875 
 English square miles. Until within quite recent times this very 
 important part of Japan was known to foreigners by the name 
 of Yezo,f which designation will, for the sake of avoiding any 
 geographical or topographical misunderstanding, be retained in 
 this little work when speaking of this division of Hokkaido. 
 
 In the south, Yezo, is divided from the main island of Japan 
 by the deep Strait of Tsugaru, forming what is called “Blakiston’s 
 Line,” from the name of the late Captain T. W. Blakiston, R. A., 
 whose explorations in this country are well known, having been 
 given to the world in his '“Yezo in Japan.” This Strait, which 
 has a very strong current, is about ten sea-miles across at its 
 narrowest part. On the north, Yezo is divided from Saghalien 
 by the Strait De la Perouse, whose width is said to be about 
 twenty-five sea-miles. On the west it is bounded by the Japan 
 
 * Hokkaido means ft Northern Sea Road.” 
 
 f Yezo is probably a corruption of the Ainu word Eso meaning "game/' or 
 “ abounding in game." 
 
( 2 ) 
 
 and Tartar Seas, and on the east and north-east by the Pacific 
 Ocean and Sea of Okhotsk. The limits of latitude and longitude 
 are: — The eastern limit E. L. 145 0 49' 30"; the western E. L. 
 139 0 35”l the southern limit is N. L. 41 0 23' 10"; and the northern 
 N. L. 45° 3i". 
 
 2. — History of Yezo. 
 
 In the earliest historical records of Japan there is no mention 
 made of Yezo, but later on we find that all the land north of 
 Sendai, where the Ainus or aborigines of old Japan dwelt even 
 till quite within historical times, had that name applied to it. 
 The Ainus themselves were called Yezo-chi, “ Men of Yezo,” and 
 the country in which they lived, in whatever part of Japan it may 
 have been, was designated Yezo-chi and Yezo, i.e. ‘‘The land of 
 Yezo.” More recently, however, the Yezo-jin having been 
 gradually driven north-ward, they left the Mainland of Japan 
 altogether and crossed to Hokkaido ; and these islands then had 
 the name Yezo specially applied to them by the Japanese people. 
 In later years, the Japanese still successfully carrying on the 
 conquest of this race, Yezo was in the year 1604, after having 
 been partly conquered and colonized by Takeda Nobuhiru, 
 delivered over to Matsumae Yoshihiro by Tokugawa Ieyasu. 
 Murray’s Hand-book for Japan says : — “ Matsumae’s successors, 
 whose seat of Government was at the town of Matsumae, recently 
 renamed Fukuyama, continued to rule over the W. portion of the 
 island down to 1868. From toward the end of the 18th century, 
 the eastern half had, with the exception of a break from 1820 to 
 1854, been administered by officials of the Shogupate. After the 
 overthrow of the Tokugawa family and the consequent mediatiza- 
 tion of the Daimyos, Yezo was placed under a special Department, 
 entitled Kaitakushi (Colonization Commission), created ad hoc. 
 and henceforth was regarded as a part of Japan proper. It 
 received the designation of Hokkaido, or “Circuit of the Northern 
 Sea,” and was divided into nine* provinces, in order to assimilate 
 it more closely to the rest of the Empire. 
 
 * The number of provinces into which Yezo was divided was n t nine, as Murray says 
 but ten. 
 
( 3 ) 
 
 Hokkaido is now, however, divided into eleven provinces, 
 namely, Oshima; Shiribeshi; Ishikari; Teshio ; Kitami ; Iburi ; 
 Hitaka; Tokachi; Kushiro; Nernuro; and the Kurile Islands, 
 now called Chishima. “ Yezo had been formerly resorted to,” 
 again says Murray, “ by the Northern Japanese chiefly for the 
 sake of the fisheries; but attempts were now made to induce the 
 natives of other parts of Japan to migrate thither as agricultural 
 settlers, and with the aid of a number of Americans, headed by 
 General Capron, public works were commenced on an extensive 
 scale with the object of developing the resources of the island 
 
 The Kaitakushi was dissolved and the government of 
 
 the island assimilated to the prefectural system of the rest of the 
 Empire.” 
 
 With regard to the attempts made to colonize this part of Japan 
 here referred to by Murray, it may be remarked that, while in the 
 year 1874 there were but 144,069 persons in Hokkaido, including 
 the Ainus, in the year 1891 there were 389,749 Japanese there as 
 well as 16,765 Ainus, thus making a total of 406,514 persons; and 
 these are yearly increasing. The present Capital of Hokkaido is 
 Satporo, founded in the year r87o; and the chief ports of Yezo 
 are: — Hakodate; Moruran ; Kushiro; Akkeshi; and Nemoro, on 
 the S. E. coast, and Otaru, twenty-two English miles by rail from 
 Satporo, on the west. 
 
 3. — Chishima. 
 
 The other or lesser division of Hokkaido comprises that group 
 or chain of islands which lie to the N. E. of Yezo, known as the 
 “ Kuriles,” the largest of which are Kunashiri, Etorop, and Para- 
 moshiri. This group was formerly Russian territory, but was ceded 
 to Japan in the year 1876 in exchange for Saghalien. All these 
 islands have not yet been surveyed, but their total area is estimated 
 at some 6,456 square miles. The name of this group is now 
 Chishima, which designation will always be applied to them is this 
 work when speaking of them as a whole. 
 
 4. — Other Islands. 
 
 Besides these two main divisions of Hokkaido, there are a 
 number of islands about the coast of Yezo, but these, with the ex- 
 
( 4 ) 
 
 ception perhaps of Okushiri, which lies off the west coast to the 
 north of Esashi, call for no special remark. Okushiri is an in- 
 teresting island because it is the only district in the Japanese 
 Empire where strong drink is prohibited. It is about fourteen 
 miles is length by seven broad at its widest part. The population, 
 which lives by fishing, numbered in 1892, two hundred and nine 
 persons. Three policemen are kept on the island and in the year 
 1891 there were three arrests: one for each police-man! The 
 total area therefore of that part of Japan now called Hokkaido, 
 may, according to the very latest survey returns, be computed at 
 43,360 square miles. 
 
 5. — Physical Features of Hokkaido; Volcanoes. 
 
 Hokkaido may be said to be a very nest of active and dormant 
 volcanoes. In Yezo itself there are no less than eighteen ; in the 
 three islands of Kunashiri, Etorop, and Shikotan of the Chishima 
 group there are fourteen ; while in the other islands of Chishima 
 there are supposed to be thirty, thus making a total of sixty-two. 
 From this we would be naturally led to suppose that of all places 
 in the world Hokkaido would surely be the greatest for earth- 
 quakes. But such however is by no means the case; earth-quakes 
 are neither so frequent nor severe here as they are in other parts 
 of Japan. 
 
 6. — Mountains. 
 
 Like every other part of the Empire, Hokkaido is distinctively 
 mountainous, and as is the case with all countries of this descrip- 
 tion, has consequently many beautiful and picturesque peeps of 
 scenery about it, which are well worth a visit. But while it is very 
 mountainous it must not be supposed that it has no plains or flat 
 land about it. The open plain alone is estimated at 1,231,701,134 
 tsubos (1 tsubo =6 sq. fit.). Nor do the mountain ranges attain to 
 the altitude of those in the Main Island of Japan. The three 
 highest peaks in Yezo are: — Nutapka-ushbe of about 7,300 ft.; 
 Optateshke about 6,50 s ft. ; and Yupari about 6,540 ft. high. The 
 quiescent volcano hitherto improperly called Shiribeshi-yama by 
 the Japanese, but whose real name is Makkarip-nupuri, is spoken 
 of in Japanese books as the Fuji-no-yama of the north. And 
 

 
 
( 5 ) 
 
 indeed, seen from a distance, towering as it does above its fellows, 
 it really forcibly reminds one of that beautiful peak, for in shape 
 it very much resembles it. But in actual height it is not quite 
 half that of Fuji, it being little more than 6,400 ft. high. From 
 the top of this mountain a fine and peculiarly wild view of the 
 surrounding country may be had, but the ascent is very difficult, 
 there being no path-way. 
 
 7. — Arable Lands. 
 
 Nor again must it be supposed that because a great deal of 
 Hokkaido is of volcanic origin and mountainous that arable land 
 is scarce and the soil poor; or because the winter is long and 
 cold and the summer said to be short that the land is useless and 
 unproductive. The country is covered all the summer with 
 luxuriant vegetation and the mountains are well clothed with fine 
 timber. The woodlands, abounding in timber, are estimated at 
 665,229,710 isubos. There are 1,173,065,452 tsubos well covered 
 with grass and fit for pasturage. There are 41,453, cho under 
 actual cultivation (1 cho=T,, 000 tsubos or 108,000 sq. fit.); while 
 there are 986,757,597 tsubos suitable for direct cultivation, and 
 other 276,142,274 isubos arable after proper drainage. Wheat, 
 barley, rye, oats, and millet, and many varieties of vegetables 
 thrive well in Hokkaido, as do also apples, pears, plums, currants, 
 gooseberries, strawberries and raspberries. The Satporo apples 
 and pears are very much sought after in other parts of Japan, and 
 are much superior to those imported from elsewhere. 
 
 8. — Climate. 
 
 It is true indeed that some people find Yezo cold in winter, 
 nevertheless, it is, in the interior at least, a dry, crisp and healthy 
 cold, and although ' the land is from four to five months under 
 snow the summer is warm ; the climate is in fact much more 
 bracing than that of any other part of Japan. It is recommended 
 by medical men to the European and American inhabitants of 
 Hongkong and other parts of China, as well as to the foreign 
 residents of Southern Japan, as a good health resort. The present 
 
( 6 ) 
 
 writer can himself testify to the bracing qualities of Yezo air, for 
 he came to this island early in the year 1877 on account of ill 
 health and has found the climate most beneficial. The average 
 seasonal temperature at Satporo for the years 1890-91 is given 
 at: — Spring 6.36. C. ; Summer 18.58. C. ; Autumn 10.2. C. ; and 
 Winter 4.16. C. This, it will be remarked, shows Hokkaido to be 
 by far more pleasant than disagreeable. 
 
 9. — Water. 
 
 There is perhaps no country better watered than Yezo. The 
 rivers and brooklets are very numerous, and there are also quite a 
 number of beautiful lakes and lakelets, and, especially about the 
 coasts of Kitami and Tokachi, some pretty extensive swamps. 
 The rivers vary from 15 ii (x «= close upon 2 y 2 English miles) 
 to 96 ri in length, and number no less than thirty-three. The 
 wet land and marsh is estimated at 276,068,324 tsubos. The 
 country also abounds in mineral waters and hot springs. Fish of 
 various kinds may be found in nearly all the lakes and rivers, and 
 these, together with water-fowl of various descriptions afford 
 pleasant diversion and plenty of exercise to the sportsman. 
 The largest lakes in Yezo are : — Saruma in the province of 
 Kitami, Shikot and Toya in Iburi, and Kushiro-ko in the province 
 of Kushiro. Among the smaller ones, those of Akan in the 
 province of Kushiro and Junsai-numa at the foot of Koma-ga-take 
 (about three hours journey from Hakodate) are especially worth 
 visiting. Without further mentioning the smaller rivers, the 
 three largest are the Ishikari, about 96 ?i long; the Teshio about 
 74, and the Tokachi which is about 53 ri in length. Some very 
 good views of the Ishikari can be had by taking a short journey 
 from Satporo ; by visiting the Horonai coal mine, or by travelling 
 by rail from Moruran to Satporo or vice versa. The average 
 annual rain-fall at Satporo for the last five years is given at 
 1,029,4 mm. 
 
 10. — Flora. 
 
 The late Captain Blakiston, and others after him, has mentioned 
 that Yezo belongs to a different sub-region from the other parts of 
 the Japanese Empire. Further investigations by Japanese gentle- 
 
( 7 ) 
 
 men on the spot go to emphasize the truth of Blakiston’s remarks 
 on this subject. I am indebted to Dr. Miyabe of the Agricultural 
 College, Satporo, for the following list of some of the trees, 
 shrubs, and herbs found in Hokkaido but which have not yet been 
 discovered in the main islands of Japan. 
 
 (a) Trees . — Japanese Name. 
 
 Abies sachalinensis, Masters Todomatsu. 
 
 Acer Miyabei, Maxim Kurobi-iiaya. 
 
 Crataegus chlorosarca, Maxim Ezoo-sangashi. 
 
 Larix dahurica, Turcz. var. japonica, 
 
 Maxim Gui-matsu. 
 
 Picea ajanensis, Fisch Ezo-mafsu. 
 
 Picea Glehni, Masters Aka-ezo-matsu. 
 
 (b) Shrubs . — 
 
 Daphniphyllum humibe, Maxim ... Ezo-yuzuriha. 
 
 Daphne Yesoensis, Maxim Nami-wazu. 
 
 Lonicera Maximowiczi, Rupr Beni-bana kyotanboku. 
 
 Myrica Gale, L Ezo-yamamono. 
 
 Ribes laxiflorum, Pursh Toga-suguri. 
 
 Rhodedendron parvifolium, Ad. ... Ezo-murasaki-tsulsuji. 
 
 (c) Herbs . — 
 
 Anemone dichotoma, L Aush-kina. 
 
 Artemisia sacrorum, var. latifolia, 
 
 Ledeb Iwa-yvmogi. 
 
 Cardamine yezoensis, Maxim Ezo-wasabi, 
 
 Clematis fusca. Turcz. var. yezoensis 
 
 Miyabe Kuro-ba?m hansozuru. 
 
 Lilium dahuricum, Gawl Ezo-no-sukashi-yuri. 
 
 Rubus chamaemorus, L Horovmi-ichigo. 
 
 Stellaria yezoensis, Maxim Ezo-fusuma. 
 
 Viola yezoensis, Maxim Ezo-no-kosumire. 
 
 All the ferns with the exception of the Aspidium fragrans, 
 Swartz, that have been found growing in Yezo, have also been 
 found in Japan proper. This fern, it will be remembered, also 
 grows in the northern parts of Asia, in Europe, and also in North 
 America. 
 
( 8 ) 
 
 Of plants which have showy flowers, and which would most 
 likely attract the attention of travellers, the following may be 
 worth mentioning in this place to save again returning to the 
 subject of the flora. 
 
 1. — Lilies. Japanese Name. 
 
 Lilium Glehni, Fr. Selim Uba-yuri. 
 
 „ avenaceum, Fisch Kuruma-yuri. 
 
 ,, Nansoni, Baker O -kuruma-yuri. 
 
 2. — The black lily. 
 
 Fritillaria kamtschatcensis, Cawl ... Kuro-yuri. 
 
 3. — Day lilies. 
 
 Flemerocallis Dumortieri, Morr. ... Mime-kwanzd. 
 
 „ Minor, Mill Kisuge. 
 
 4. — Lily of the valley. 
 
 Convallaria majalis, L Suzuran or Kimikakeso. 
 
 5 . — Orchids 
 
 Orchis aristata, Fisch Hakusan-chidori. 
 
 Calanthe discolor, Lindl Ebine. 
 
 ,, tricarinata, Lindl Sarmen-ebine. 
 
 6. — L adics-slippers. 
 
 Cypripedium Japonicum, Th Kumagai-sd. 
 
 „ macranthum, Sw Atsumori-sd. 
 
 „ guttatum, Sw Kuhiro-atoumori. 
 
 7. — Roses. 
 
 Rosa rugosa, Th 
 
 ,, acicularis, Lindl 
 
 ,, multiflora, Thunb. var. adeno- 
 phoro, Fr. st. Sav 
 
 8 . — Hydrangeas. 
 
 Hydrangea pansculata, Sieb 
 
 „ Hortensia, &c. var. 
 
 acuminata, a. gray. ... 
 Also the climbing Hydrangeas. 
 
 Hydrangea scandens, Max 
 
 Schizaphragma hydrangeoides, Sieb. 
 et Zucc 
 
 9. — Early spring flowers. 
 
 Adonis amurensis, Regel et Radd.... 
 
 Hamanasu. 
 
 Takane-bara. 
 
 Nobara. 
 
 Nori-no-ki or Sobita. 
 
 A mac ha. 
 
 Tstim-Azisai. 
 
 Lzaagara/ni 
 
 Fukuju-sd or Mansaku. 
 
( 9 ) 
 
 Anemone Raddeana, Reg Urabeni-ichige-so. 
 
 Lysichiton kamschatcensis, Schott... Mizu-bashd. 
 
 Glancidium palmalum, Sieb. et Zucc. Shirane-aoi or Yama-botan • 
 Corydalis ambigua, Cham. et 
 
 Schlecht Engosakit. 
 
 Magnolia kobus, Dc. and others ... Robushi or Hikizakura. 
 
 io. — Rhododendrons and Azaleas. 
 
 Rhododendron brachycarpum, Don. Shakunage. 
 
 „ Parvifolium, Ad. ... Ezo-murasaki-tsutsuji. 
 
 „ chrysantherm, Pall. Kibana-shakunage. 
 
 „ Albrechti, Maxim... Murasaki-yashio-tsutsuji. 
 
 „ indicum, Sweet, var. 
 
 koempferi, Max. Yama-tsutsuji. 
 
 „ kamtschaticum, Pall. Ezo-tsutsuji. 
 
 1 1 . — Plants bearing edible berries. 
 Actinidia arguta, Planch 
 
 Fragaria elalior, Ehrh 
 
 Kokuwa. 
 
 C Shi robana-no-hebiichigo . 
 I Ainu-Furep. 
 
 Rubus parvifolius, L Nawa-shit o-ichigo. 
 
 „ Idacus, L. var. strigysus, 
 
 Maxim Ezo-ichigo. 
 
 „ phocnieolasius, Max Urajiro-ichigo. 
 
 „ occidentalis, L. var. Japoni- 
 
 cus Migabe Rur o-ichigo. 
 
 Ribes petracum, Blolf. var. tomento- 
 
 sum Max Ezo-suzuri. 
 
 ,, rubrum, L. var. bracteosum, 
 
 Max. and others Tokaclii-suzuri. 
 
 1 2 . — Plants bearing poisonous berries. 
 
 , .... .. ( Doku-utsugi or Kawara 
 
 (a ) — Coriaria Japomca, a. Cray ...< . ° 
 
 l utstlgl. 
 
 This is a small shrub 2 to 3 ft. high growing usually on the 
 gravelly banks of rivers and streams, with opposite, simple, entire 
 leaves, and with elongated clusters of fleshy five-angled red berries, 
 which are very poisonous. 
 
 (Id ) — Lonicera Morrowi, a. Gray 
 
 ( Futakorobi ; Bushidama ; 
 ( Futako-shiba. 
 
( IO ) 
 
 This is a shrub 4 to 6 ft. high, growing chiefly along the coasts 
 of the provinces of Oshima; Iburi ; Shiribeshi and Ishikari, with 
 leaves which are simple, opposite, entire, oblong and hairy, and 
 with red attractive berries of about the size of a pea, which are 
 always borne at the end of the stalk in pairs. A discretion of 
 these poisonous plants is here given as a warning to travellers, for 
 a lady who visited Yezo once ate some those berries and suffered 
 greatly in consequence. 
 
 11. — Zoology. 
 
 Not only do differences exist between the Flora of Japan proper 
 and Hokkaido, but there are also found zoological differences. 
 I am indebted to Mr. Iv. Kodera of the Satporo Agricultural 
 College for the following list of Mammalia and birds peculiar to 
 
 Hokkaido. 
 
 (a) Mammalia . — Japanese Name. 
 
 Conis familiaris (Yessoana) Ainu-inu. 
 
 ,, sp.: (Black fox) Kuro- gits line. 
 
 Enhydris marina, Erxl Rakko. 
 
 Mustela brachyura, Gray Ezo-ten. 
 
 „ sp Ezo-itachi. 
 
 Irichechus rosmerus, I Sei-uchi. 
 
 Ursus arctos, L Aka-guma. 
 
 „ maritimus, Desm Shiro-guma. 
 
 lamias stratus, L Shima-nezumi. 
 
 (b) Birds . — 
 
 Acredula caudata, L Shima-enega. 
 
 Bubo blakistoni, Sieb O-mimi-zuku. 
 
 Oryocopus martinus, L Kuma-gera. 
 
 Garrulus brandti, Everson Miyama-kakesu. 
 
 Gecinus canus, Zin Yama-gera. 
 
 Picus minor, L Seberia-kozera. 
 
 Tetrastes bonasianus, L Ezo-raicho. 
 
( II ) 
 
 i 2 . — Minerals. 
 
 It is no uncommon thing to hear the Japanese call Hokkaido 
 the Zeni-bako (money-box) of Japan. And truly there are many 
 grounds for applying such a name to it, both because of its 
 mineral wealth and also on account of the abundant supply of 
 fish, in endless varieties, to be found frequently its coasts. The 
 principal useful minerals to be found in Hokkaido are: — Coal in 
 rich abundance, Sulphur, Silver, Lead, Copper, Lime-stone, Gold 
 sand, Magnetic iron and Diatom earth, Clay and Petroleum. 
 Coal and sulphur are, however, the only minerals worked. Coal 
 mines have been opened at Poronai (sixteen ri from Satporo); 
 Ikusumbetsu (eighteen ri from Satporo); Ota-ush-nai (close to 
 the Sorachi river); Yubari Hasutori (on e ri from Kushiro) ; and 
 at Shiranuka (seven ri West of Kushiro). Sulphur is worked at 
 Atusa-nupuri about twenty-four ri north of Kushiro town ; Iwaw- 
 nupuri about five ri south of Iwanai, and at Ichibishinai on the 
 southern part of the Island of Ivunashiri in the Chishima group. 
 
 10. — Fish. 
 
 Bounded as these islands are by the sea, hundreds of fishermen 
 find plenty of employment for many months in the year, and are 
 well paid for their labour; for besides those fish used for general 
 consumption in Japan, having the Chinese coast so near at hand, 
 there is always a ready market to be found for dried fish of every 
 description as well as for sea- weed. The chief products of the 
 waters immediately around Hokkaido are, herrings, salmon, 
 salmon-trout, cod-fish, tunny, skate, gurnard, sardines, flounders, 
 cuttle-fish, sharks, sturgeon, sea-ear, oysters, scallops, crabs, and 
 sea-weed. The total value for the year 1890 was yen 7,964,669. 
 The herrings and sardines are caught chiefly for the sake of the 
 oil and guano they yield. The salmon, trout, cod-fish and others 
 are dried for export, as are the shark-fins, which are considered 
 a great delicacy by the Chinese. 
 
 14. — Commercial Importance of Hokkaido. 
 
 This brief outline of Hokkaido and short enumeration of its 
 principal products are fully sufficient to show its wealth and prove 
 
( 12 ) 
 
 its paramount importance to the rest of the Japanese Empire. 
 Not only so, but the industries now already actually entered upon, 
 and the rapid immigrations now taking place show clearly that the 
 Japanese people are fully alive to its importance. Indeed, 
 Hokkaido, situated as it is in close proximity to Russia and 
 China, must in future rise to still higher importance, and nothing 
 will serve to stimulate the Japanese to the internal development 
 of these islands than the trade to be looked for when the Siberian 
 railway shall have become an accomplished fact, or when the 
 steam-ships begin to run direct from America through the Strait 
 of Tsugaru, (thus bringing them within four hours of Hakodate), 
 to Shanghai, should that route ever be taken. Altogether we are 
 disposed to look upon Hokkaido with all its resources as having 
 a great and prosperous future before it. 
 
SECTION II. 
 
 THE ITINERARY. 
 
 i . — C ommunication. 
 
 Rapid and safe communication between Hokkaido and the 
 United States and Canada as well as Europe by first class Mail 
 Steamers is now thoroughly established ; and the facilities for 
 getting to these islands are of much comfort and advantage to 
 fore'gn tourists who are desirous of paying flying visits to this 
 hitherto almost unexplored region. It is now merely a matter 
 of getting on board a Mail-ship at San Francisco, Vancouver, 
 Hongkong or Shanghai, and steaming right away to Nagasaki, 
 Kobe or Yokohama, and by changing steamers at either of these 
 places on to Hakodate or Otaru in Yezo. Should, however, a 
 traveller desire to go to Nemuro or Chishima, he must either make 
 another change at Hakodate or go overland from that port, or 
 Satporo, to Nemuro, and there take a steamer on. Or if a land 
 journey from any of the principal ports of Japan proper be 
 preferred, railways will be found to connect Nagasaki and Kobe 
 with Tokyo, and thence one may go right up the Main-land to 
 Aomori in the Province of Mutsu. Mail steamers of the Nippon 
 Yusen Kaisha take passengers thence across the Tsugaru Strait, a 
 distance of fifty-nine miles, to Hakodate. A journey to Yezo is 
 therefore no longer the tedious, difficult and perhaps hazardous 
 undertaking that it was a very few years ago. 
 
 Once arrived in Hokkaido, the journey to the different districts 
 is easy and communication with the outer world quick and assured. 
 Roads and the telegraph now run almost round the entire island 
 of Yezo, and the Post Office service, which is wonderfully well 
 developed, reaches every village. The foreign residents therefore 
 of this part of the globe and all visitors who come here, are, by 
 telegram, within one day of every other civilized part of the world, 
 and within less than six weeks of New York or London by Mail. 
 So rapidly and effectually has the Communication Department 
 of Hokkaido worked. 
 
( 14 ) 
 
 2. — The Ainus. 
 
 The great attraction in Hokkaido to those who travel for 
 pleasure and education combined, letting alone the peculiarly 
 wierd and wild scenery and the pleasures afforded to the sportsman, 
 is in the Ainu race, or Aborigines of Japan, who, it appears, are 
 gradually becoming extinct. Though this peculiar race of people 
 was once very nurmerous and formerly inhabited the whole of 
 Japan proper, they now number, as has been previously remarked, 
 no more than 16,765 persons, and th.se are decreasing. Visitors 
 to Japan should surely see something of them if possible. In a 
 very few years they will, in all probability, become quite extinct, 
 or at all events become so amalgamated with the immigrants as to 
 become indistinguishable from the Japanese. Hokkaido is the 
 only place in the world where they can be seen untainted by 
 European influence, for those who live in Russian Territory have 
 now become quite Russianized. Here in Hokkaido may be seen 
 the oldest and newest peoples of this Ancient Empire side by 
 side, two distinct and very different races, the one superseding 
 the other; — intelligence, fore-thought, and energetic enterprise 
 triumphing over ignorance, improvidence, and inaction. Here 
 one may actually see that process of the gradual extinction of the 
 Ainus and the appropriation of their land which has been going 
 on for years; not indeed by cruelty and slaughter or owing to 
 unfeeling wantonness, but simply because the Ainus have not the 
 self-reliance and steady energy by which they could, if they chose, 
 work and live happily side by side with the Japanese. But the 
 race, simple, kind, truthful and child-like as we have found it, 
 seems destined to pass away in a few years. Something it is hoped 
 will be done for these poor people in the future. The Japanese 
 are now waking up to their duty towards, and responsibility with 
 regard to the Ainus and a society has been established which has 
 for its object the “ rescue ” of the race. It remains to be seen 
 what will be done by this Society. Those people who desire to 
 see the Ainus in their own homes can do so by going to Usu in 
 Volcano Bay from Hakodate, or by visiting Chitose from Satporo. 
 But a far better idea of them may be had by allowing one’s self a 
 little more time and going to Piratoru in the Province of Hidaka. 
 

 MALE AND FEMALE AINUS OF YEZO ISLAND. 
 

 
( ^5 ) 
 
 This is the old Ainu capital and is a most typical village; it is 
 surrounded by the most lovely scenery. 
 
 3. — Sport. 
 
 (#) Fishing. 
 
 Sportsmen visiting Hokkaido will not expect to find the rivers 
 so full of fish as to be able to ford them dry-shod by walking upon 
 the backs of salmon-trout, nor will they suppose that every time 
 they go fishing it will be necessary to take a rifle in order to keep 
 off the bears. Things are not after this fashion in Hokkaidd. 
 The sportsman is not invariably successful. Several persons have 
 been disappointed in game, having come either at the wrong 
 season or not happened to hit upon the right spot. As a case in 
 point, the present writer well remembers a gentleman staying 
 with him several days in the hopes of getting a few trout. But he 
 was disappointed, for, with the exception of a few very small fish, 
 he caught nothing. Yet within two hours after Ire left us the 
 salmon entered the river in thousands, and by night the Ainus 
 had taken hundreds. This happened at Porobets at the very 
 beginning of June. The best time for trout fishing in Yezo is 
 June-July, and the rivers in which the fish abound at that season 
 are, Yurap, Osamambe, and Usu in Volcano Bay; in Porobets, 
 Slrikiw, Saru, and Kushiro on the East coast; in almost all the 
 streams along the Northern coasts, and in the Ishikari and Shiri- 
 betsu on the West. 
 
 In peaking on thi; subject, Murry’s Hand-book says, “There 
 are two classes of sporting fish, — the Shake, or Salmon as known 
 in Europe, and the Masu (Salmon Japonicus). The Shake is a 
 full-sized salmon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during 
 the autumn and early winter. All the northern rivers hold the 
 fish, which in Yezo are so plentiful that they fall an easy prey to 
 crows and bears. Many salmon must weigh as much as 30 lbs. 
 when caught ; but they afford no sport to the angler, since like 
 salmon in other Pacific waters, they neither rise to a fly nor run 
 to a spinning bait. 
 
 “ Of the Masu, there are several varities; but they are all of the 
 trout description, and they are all sporting fish. The true Masu 
 
( i6 ) 
 
 runs up the rivers from May to August, their ascent depending 
 on the temperature of the water. Between 50° and 65° the fish 
 are in the best condition. Below 50° they are not taken. An 
 8 lb. fish is a large one, the usual size being 5 lb. or 6 lb. 
 
 4. — Sport. 
 
 (h) Shooting. 
 
 The time for shooting bears is the early spring and late autumn, 
 but as to the best localities for bagging the animals it is better to 
 take the advice of Ainu hunters on the spot, who know their 
 haunts. In short, no one should go bear hunting without an Ainu 
 guide. It will not always be found necessary to go off the beaten 
 track in order to get a bear, for in the spring of 1892 the writer 
 knew of six large animals being shot guite close to Ainu villages; 
 two at Nupari-bets and four at Shiraoi along the highway to 
 Satporo upon the South East coast of Yezo. They may also be 
 found in great numbers at Etorop and Kunashiri in the Chishima 
 group. Along the line from Satporo to Poronai, bear-tracks have 
 been often seen. There is however one serious drawback to 
 shooting at all in Hokkaido, and that is the license. A Passport 
 does not give permission to shoot even bears, and a shooting 
 license does not extend beyond treaty limits, a distance of twenty- 
 five miles around Hakodate, that being as yet the only open port 
 in Hokkaido. Those visitors to these islands who desire to shoot 
 outside of treaty limits should, to avoid any unpleasantness, apply 
 for permission at the Government Offices. Here we will also 
 remark, for the benefit of those who travel for information, that 
 the writer is sure the foreign residents of Hakodate, Satporo 
 or Nemuro will always be found ready to supply any information 
 they can to the enquirer. Not only so but the writer has himself 
 always found the Government officers most courteous and willing 
 to give any information they may be able to on every subject 
 connected with Hokkaido, its administration, people, and other 
 topics of general interest. 
 
( *7 ) 
 
 5- — Out- fit. 
 
 (a) Clothing. 
 
 The out-fit one requires in visiting this part of Japan is sub- 
 stantially the same as that required for any other part of the 
 Empire excepting that for winter wear, — the warmer one’s clothing 
 the better. A sheet and air pillow for night use will be found a 
 great comfort. And, if one desires to get off the general beaten 
 track and visit the Ainus, a mosquito net will be found necessary, 
 as flies of various descriptions dwell here in great numbers. Flea- 
 powder is quite a necessity, for fleas, of which there are millions, 
 seem to have a special liking for American and European blood ; 
 a piece or two of soap or a few pieces of soap-paper, and two or 
 three packets of candles should be brought ; but do not forget 
 pen, paper, and ink, and a good book or two in case of a rainy 
 day. Above all things do not leave your towel behind, as those 
 given by the Japanese at the inns are usually wet and are not much 
 larger than an ordinary pocket-handkerchief. Those who desire to 
 ride should provide themselves with a saddle and a pair of riding 
 breeches. 
 
 6. — Outfit. 
 
 ( b ) Food. 
 
 Fairly good Japanese food is served at most of the inns one 
 has to put up at, but as with the exception of a few places bread 
 and beef cannot be obtained (and even rice, eggs or fish cannot 
 always be had in Ainu villages), it is advisable to bring a few tins 
 of biscuits, a pot of Liebig, and a little canned beef. Of course 
 tea or coffee will not be forgotten. The writer has sometimes 
 found Moore’s Chocolate and a piece of bacon a great standby 
 when spending a few months among the Ainus. However, 
 provisions of every description, including fresh milk and eggs, can 
 be purchased both at Flakodate and Satporo, and sometimes at 
 Kushiro, Akkesh, Nemoro, Otaru and Esashi. A knife, fork and 
 spoon, and a cork-screw will also be found useful. A good 
 clasp-knife and a ball of twine, a spare button or two and needle 
 and thread may come in handy sometimes, especially if one 
 intends to spends any length of time in the mountains or among 
 the Ainu. 
 
( i8 ) 
 
 7. — How to Spend a Fortnight in Yezo. 
 
 I. Hakodate. 
 
 We will suppose the place of landing to have been Hakodate, 
 There is no foreign hotel here, but good Japanese accommodation 
 can be had at either of the inns named, Kakujo or Chigai-San gi 
 close to the landing-place. The traveller would find it a great 
 help were he to call upon any of the foreign residents at this port, 
 of whom there are eight families, and make enquiries of them as to 
 Hakodate, its environments and accommodation. Most visitors 
 who come to this town are struck with the resemblance of 
 “ Hakodate Head ” to the Rock of Gibralter. The “ Head ” is 
 simply a single mountain mass rising some 1150 feet above the 
 level of the sea, situated at the extreme end of a narrow neck 
 of land. The town is built at the foot of the northern slope and 
 stretches out to the sandy plains beyond to the eastward. It has 
 some fine looking buildings, as for example, the Postal-Telegraph 
 offices, Town club, Mercantile School, Hospital, etc. The 
 principal stores are, Kane-mori ; Ima-ichi ; Katie-nee and Yama- 
 san. Good water has been laid on from Akagawa, distant about 
 seven miles. There is regular communication by sea three times 
 a week with Kobe, Yokohama, and Otaru, and a daily Mail 
 service between Aomori and Hakodate. By crossing the Strait 
 to the former place one may reach Tokyo in about thirty hours. 
 
 The traveller should spend at least half-a-day in visiting the 
 Public Gardens, Museum, and the beautiful dell of Yachigachira, all 
 of which lie on the eastern outskirts of the town. In the Museum 
 a small collection of Ainu utensils and implements and some 
 flint spear and arrow-heads, etc., relics of the stone age of Japan, 
 may be seen, also an interesting collection of Yezo birds presented 
 by the late Captain Blakiston. These latter, however, must be 
 called for, for as a rule they are kept shut up in drawers to preserve 
 them ; but they may always be seen if asked for. 
 
 Hakodate Mountain should certainly be climbed. Forty 
 minutes steady walking will easily bring one to its summit, where 
 the view to be obtained is both extensive and picturesque. There 
 are good paths running along the tops of all the ridges from 
 
( T 9 ) 
 
 which several good bird’s-eye views of the town and harbour may 
 be obtained. Looking across the bay to the north-ward, the 
 distant mountains, clothed as they are from the top down to the 
 foot with vegetation, and having the bare grey peak of the Volcano 
 Koma-ga-takc well exposed above them in the back-ground, the 
 view is really charming. Turning towards the south-west and 
 south, the extreme northern part of the Mainland of Japan is to 
 be seen. The very “tit-bits” of scenery, however, are those to 
 be had by walking up the valley in the hill to a place called 
 Mizu-moto and there branching off sharply to the left. By so 
 doing and following the path there to be found to the end of the 
 point, and thence round to the eastern part of this particular 
 ridge, the views obtained will be very pleasing indeed. 
 
 II. The Lakes and Koma-ga-take. 
 
 Having spent two days in and about Hakodate, the visitor 
 should proceed thence to the lakes of Junsai-imma ,* situated two 
 ri from the foot of the volcano called Koma-ga-take. Carriages 
 to this place, or saddle-horses if desirable, may be obtained at 
 Hakodate ; the distance is seventeen miles. There are two hotels 
 here but the one farthest from Hakodate is by far the best. It is 
 called Maru-san. We should advise those who intend to go this 
 way to Satporo to take saddle-horses through to Mori, keeping 
 them a night at the lakes, for they would be found most useful in 
 ascending the volcano. By leaving Hakodate at seven in the 
 morning Junsai-numa will be reached by one o’clock. After 
 luncheon a walk of ten minutes will bring one to the larger lake 
 of tire two and a very pleasant tw r o or three hours may be spent 
 in walking about its borders. The hotel is situated upon the 
 edge of the smaller lake. The shores of the lakes are, as Murray 
 truly remarks, “covered with luxuriant vegetation, while the 
 islets furnish objective points for those who may wish to go 
 out boating. The lake fish can be taken witlr a worm, but will 
 not rise to a fly.” 
 
 Early the next morning the horses may be saddled and ridden 
 about half way up the volcano where they should be left in charge 
 
 * Junsai-numa takes its name from the lily (Limnanthemum pettatum) which grows, 
 there, and which is used as an article of food. 
 
( 20 ) 
 
 of an attendant. From here the journey to the crater is about 
 half an hour’s walk. By leaving the hotel at six in the morning 
 one may be back again very comfortably by twelve; at three or 
 four o’clock the traveller may set out for Mori and there give up 
 the horses. As, however, Mori is a most uninteresting place we 
 advise spending one more night at the lakes. Then by leaving 
 the following morning at seven, one may be at Mori in ample 
 time to catch the steamer for Moruran, which leaves Mori at one 
 o’clock. The best inn at Mori is Yamaha, and the best at 
 Moruran is Maru-ichi. 
 
 III. Moruran to Piratoru. 
 
 According to the proposed plan, the evening of the fifth day 
 will find the tourist at Moruran, 34 ri by road from Satporo. 
 The steamer from Mori arrives here at about 4.30 o’clock. 
 Moruran is a small town situated on a beautiful but small land- 
 locked harbour on the eastern side of which is the terminus of 
 the Satporo-Iwamizawa-Moruran railway. On the morning after 
 arriving at Moruran a small open boat may be taken across 
 the bay to the railway station at Itotsukerep and a ticket there 
 procured for Tomakomai, distant 40 miles. 
 
 The line runs along the sea coast and passes through the 
 villages of Washibets, Porobets and Shiraoi to Tomakomai, at 
 which place the train arrives at ten o’clock. As the course of the 
 railway is over quite level land, there is very little scenery of 
 interest to be seen. At a place called Eampok, however, there is 
 a tunnel 800 feet long, and a ri further on at Ayero, another 2,000 
 feet. At Tomakomai the Tourist should have his baggage taken 
 to the inn named Kane-su, which is the best in the place. But 
 beware of the water here, for it is not good. Immediately upon 
 arrival horses should be hired for Yubutsu, distant 3 ri. But all 
 luggage not required for three or four days may be left at 
 Tomakomai till the return from Piratoru. Flaving arrived at 
 Yubutsu fresh horses should be immediately ordered for Sarubutu, 
 and luncheon can be taken while they are being caught and 
 saddled, which will probably take about an hour. The charge 
 for a horse varies from seven to nine sen a ri in the summer 
 
( 21 ) 
 
 according to the nature of the ground; it is always more among 
 the mountains than on the plains. By ordering the horses quickly, 
 Sarubutu, nearly 6 ri from Yubutsu, will be reached by seven 
 o’clock. Sarubutu is a small village lying at the mouth of the 
 Saru river; there is no choice of inns there, all being equally 
 bad, one cannot therefore go to the wrong one. Be particularly 
 careful of the water here : it is a great place for ague. Before 
 retiring for the night do not forget to order horses for Piratoru 
 and back. The distance is 4 ri ; an attendant is always sent to 
 take charge of the horses but nothing extra is paid for his services. 
 The journey should be commenced by seven, so that a good long 
 time for rest and observation may be had at Piratoru. On arrival 
 Chief Penri should be enquired after, as he knows how to cater 
 for foreigners, having had much experience in this line. But one 
 must be careful with him or he will get thoroughly intoxicated 
 before anything has been seen of the place. The scenery about 
 Piratoru is exquisitely grand, and the village itself prettily laid 
 out. It is well worth a visit, and is quite a typical Ainu town. 
 If asked, Penri will take the visitor to see the Japanese shrine of 
 Yoshitsune, the hero who fled to Yezo from Japan in ancient 
 times, and who is said to have taught the Ainus many useful 
 things. 
 
 IV. Piratoru to Satporo. 
 
 After having leisurely looked about Piratoru, which by the by, 
 has only thirty-two huts in it, the horses can be resaddled and the 
 return journey to Sarubutu commenced. Horses should again be 
 ordered over-night to Yubutsu and thence to Tomakomai. By 
 setting out at eight this place may be reached soon after noon, 
 the distance being nine ri. As this will probably be too late for 
 the train to Satporo, nothing remains for it but to spend the night 
 here and go on in the morning. It should have been mentioned 
 that there are two Piratorus, but the tourist should be careful to 
 go to the Piratoru in which Penri lives ; this is abomt half a mile 
 beyond the first. 
 
 The distance by rail from Tomakomai to Satporo is 67 miles, 
 the line through from Itotsukerep being altogether 107 miles* 
 From Tomakomai the track changes its course to almost due north 
 
( 2 2 ) 
 
 and so on to Iwamizawa, at which place the passenger must change 
 carriages for Satporo. The scenery along the line cannot be said 
 to be grand, for the greater part of it lies through thickly wooded 
 plain, and in some places swampy country is traversed. But 
 Satporo has to be reached, and this is the quickest and prettiest way 
 of getting there. Between Iwamizawa and Satporo the scenery 
 becomes more interesting and one very pretty view of the Ishkari 
 river is to be had from the car windows. 
 
 5. — Satporo. 
 
 On arriving at Satporo the traveller will find the Hohei-kwan , 
 which was originally built for the Imperial Residence, the best 
 hotel. Everything here is on the American style and the charge 
 is $3 a day, but special arrangements may be made if desirable. 
 The best Japanese inns are Yoshida and Yamcigata-ya, and the 
 charges they make are usually $1 a day; for this very good 
 semi-foreign food is provided. This city, which is the Capital of 
 Hokkaido, did not, as Murray truly remarks, “ grow up naturally 
 like Matsumae in old times and Elakodate in more recent day , in 
 obedience to the requirements of trade. It was created by official 
 fiat during the present reign, and depends for its prosperity chiefly 
 on the public institutions established there, notably on the 
 Agricultural College, which is the last remnant of the Kaitakushi, or 
 Colonization Commission, and on the Military Colony (Tonden- 
 liei) in the neighbouring country. These remarks refer more to 
 the past than to the present, for Satporo is now more dependen. 
 upon its own exertions than upon the help of the Governmentt 
 The Capitol is a large and imposing red brick building built in 
 European style, and is equal to anything of the kind in Tokyo. 
 There is a silk, hemp, flax, and a sugar factory; also a saw-mill, 
 flour-mill, brewery, and an extablishment for making wine and 
 brandy, all belonging to private companies. The College Museum 
 and gardens are well worth visiting. Salmon and trout fishing 
 may be had in the Toyohira river which runs through Satporo, 
 at Tsuishikari five ri away, and in a stream called Osat-nai about 
 seven ri down the road towards Chitose. 
 
THE HOKKAIDO GOVERNMENT BUILDING IN SAPPORO. 
 
( 2 3 ) 
 
 The most pleasant walks near Satporo are : — Round the College 
 farm, park, and botanical gardens; to a well-kept horse- farm at 
 Makomanai; and to the top of Maru-yama, whence a splendid 
 view of Satporo and the plain on which it is built can be obtained. 
 For longer excursions one may go to Kariki about i ri away and 
 there take an Ainu canoe and go down the stream to Tsushikari 
 and up the Ishikari river a ri and a half to Ebets. At Ebets the 
 train should be taken for Satporo. The Poronai coal-mine may be 
 visited by those who take an interest in these things; by leaving 
 Satporo at seven by train, there will be ample time to look over 
 the mine and return to Satporo the same day. 
 
 Should one have time to spare, he may hire a horse or Jinrikisha 
 to a place called Jozanke, distant 7 ri, where there are some hot 
 springs. Here also good trout fishing may sometimes be had in 
 June and July. Some travellers have spent a day by going to the 
 Chitose lakes, 7 ri away, but the mosquitoes and gadflies are such 
 a terrible nuisance that the writer cannot conscientiously advise 
 the trip, for these pests render all enjoyment of the beauties of 
 nature quite out of the question. 
 
 H aving spent three days about Satporo we should advise the 
 traveller to leave by rail for Otaru, distance 22 miles, on the 
 afternoon of the fourth, ready to take tire steamer for Hakodate, 
 Yokohama or Kobe at noon the following day; the voyage to 
 Hakodate takes 18 hours. Otaru is a growing place and very 
 busy, being the terminus of the Poronai railway. The best hotels 
 are Itchu-ya and Kito . At Temiya, which lies at the extreme end 
 of Otaru, there is a small cave on the back of which there are a 
 few curious characters which, because none has yet succeded in 
 deciphering them, have been thought by some to be simple 
 nonsense. What the inscriptions really are no one seems to know. 
 In all probability they are the work of ancient Ainus and may 
 some day be understood. 
 
 We have now come to the end of the fort-night we proposed to 
 spend in Yezo, and our time-table is as follows : — 
 
 Days spent at Hakodate 2 
 
 To Junsai-numa 1 
 
 Climbing Koma-ga-take 1 
 
 From the lakes to Moruran 1 
 
( 24 ) 
 
 Moruran to Sarubutu i 
 
 Sarubutu to Piratoru and back i 
 
 From Sarubutu to Tomakomai i 
 
 Tomakomai to Satporo x 
 
 Days spent about Satporo 3 
 
 Otaru 1 
 
 Otaru to Hakodate 1 
 
 Total of days 14 
 
A P P E N D I X. 
 
 It must not be supposed that there are no other places of 
 interest to be visited in Hokkaido than those briefly touched upon 
 in the foregoing pages of this little book. It was not the inten- 
 tion in writing it to supply a general guide or Hand-book for 
 the whole of Hokkaido, but to give a few brief and useful hints 
 to any who may pay a passing visit to this part of the world. 
 However, for the benefit of those travellers who have plenty of 
 leisure, we would mention the three following places, which are 
 interesting localities to visit. Viz : — Usu, Noboribetsu Volcano 
 and Kamikawa. 
 
 Usu. 
 
 The village of Usu lies in Volcano-Bay, five English miles 
 distant from Mombetsu, and is one of the loveliest spots of the kind 
 in Hokkaido. The village, which is almost exclusively Ainu, 
 is situated upon the shores of a small, but most beautiful harbour. 
 Should an artist visit this place he will find it a very paradise; the 
 bold rocks lying off the coast and the exquisite scevery around 
 him would affored him great delight, and he would find plenty of 
 employment for brush or pencil. The simplest way of getting to 
 Usu is to take a small steamer from Mororan to Mombetsu. 
 Arrived here the traveller should put up at the Inn known as 
 Abe Nosz/ke, and, as there is no inn that can be recommended 
 at Usu itself, should make this his head-quarters. Horses should 
 be taken at Mombetsu for Usu and upon arrival enquiries made 
 for the hut of the Ainu chief named Rikotuk. The horses may 
 here be handed over to an attendant and Rikotuk asked to act as 
 pilot about the village and harbour. There are 123 huts in this 
 district and a population of 470 Ainus. 
 
 About 4 miles inland from the village is the Usu volcano, now 
 dormant, from the edge of whose crater several extensive and beauti- 
 ful views may be obtained. By following the crater along towards 
 
( 26 ) 
 
 the North the traveller would, in an hour, arrive at the shores of a 
 large and pretty lake said to be crowded with trout. A visit both 
 to the village and volcano is highly recommended. There is a 
 good path up the mountain and horses can be ridden nearly to the 
 edge of the lake. Three days at least should be devoted to this 
 trip, though of course it may be done in two with a rush. 
 
 Noboribetsu Volcano. 
 
 The little hamlet of Noboribetsu is situated upon the Mororan- 
 Iwamizawa Railway line and is 12 English miles distant from 
 Mororan. The village takes its name from a river, upon the 
 right-hand side of whose banks it is situated, and which is called 
 by the Ainus Nupuru-pet , “the muddy river.” This river is so 
 named on account of the extremely yellow colour of its waters- 
 caused by one of its branches taking its rise in the crater of a 
 volcano a, few miles inland. This volcano is of a very peculiar 
 and interesting formation, having two craters, an upper and a 
 lower, from both of which boiling water, highly pregnated with 
 sulpher, flows with great rapidity. There was formerly a boiling 
 lake in the upper crater 60 yards square, from the back of which a 
 geyser threw up columns of water every five seconds to the height 
 of about thirty feet. Both lake and geyser have now however 
 disappeared. But in the lower crater there are numerous small 
 geyser-like ejections of boiling water, but these are continuous and 
 not intermittent. This volcano is well worth a visit, though the 
 noise caused by the steam issuing from the various fissures in the 
 crater is likely to cause one to feel a sort of uncanny sensation. 
 About 200 yards below the crater there are some hot baths famous 
 both among Ainus and Japanese for their medicinal properties. 
 The volcano is only 5 English miles from the railway-station, so 
 the journey is easily accomplished in one day. Intending visitors 
 should procure horses at Noboribetsu for this trip as the river has 
 to be forded before reaching tire volcano. It would be more 
 prudent to return to Noboribetsu to spend the night than to stay 
 at the volcano. 
 
( 2 7 ) 
 
 Kamikawa. 
 
 In the year 1890 it was determined by the Authorities to build 
 a Northern Palace for the Emperor in the extensive and fertile 
 plain of Kamikawa, 91 English miles distant from Satporo, and 
 situated in the centre of the Island of Yezo. Since that time 
 things have progressed slowly but surely and though the Palace 
 itself has not yet been commenced a goodly number of houses and 
 offices have been built. Kamikawa, which is to be the name of 
 the new city, will take the place of Satporo as the Official Capital 
 of Hokkaido, and will be the railway centre for this Island. 
 Though the line only reaches to Sorachi-buto at present, a distance 
 of 51 miles from Satporo, thus leaving 40 miles to be traversed by 
 road, there is a good deal of business already springing up in the 
 place. When the line has been completed to the new Capital 
 this will be found to be a place well worth visiting, for the scenery 
 along the Ishikari river and the views from the surrounding 
 mountains are said to be particularly fine. 
 
 Hakodate. 
 
 Before finally laying down my pen I have been asked to add 
 one word more about Hakodate. Though Satporo is at present 
 the official capital of Hokkaido, and this place has at length been 
 ordered to retire in favour of Kamikawa, yet the fact cannot be 
 overlooked that Hakodate is the natural capital of this part of the 
 Emperor’s dominions. Its easy access and geographical position 
 render it so. History shows that it has grown into existence and 
 importance as circumstances urged it. It has never required to be 
 forced, like some exotic plant, to make it grow. Matsumae of 
 old could not have existed without it, and the land around the 
 shores of the Hakodate Bay was the first in Yezo ever cultivated 
 by the Japanese. 
 
 The town, with its 60,000 inhabitants is situated on the southern- 
 most shores of Yezo and is in close proximity with the Main Island 
 of Japan, and within easy reach of the great rice-growing and 
 silk-raising centres of Sendai and the districts immediately around 
 that Province. It has one of the finest harbours in the Empire 
 
( 28 ) 
 
 and certainly the best in Hokkaido. Its waters are deep and the 
 anchorage all that can be desired. The British and other fleets 
 find the harbour a pleasant refuge, during the summer months, 
 from the great heat of Hongkong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe and 
 Yokohama. 
 
 Of so much importance, indeed, is Hakodate considered to be, 
 that its merchants contemplate building a wharf for the shipping 
 and constructing a railway line via Mori to Moruran in order 
 to bring down Poronai, Sorachi and Yubari coals for the steam- 
 ships frequenting these waters. The estimated price for the coal 
 per ton is four and a half Japanese yen. 
 
 And again, it should be remembered that Hakodate is on the 
 Tsugaru Strait which connects the Japan Sea with the Pacific 
 Ocean. It is thought that should there be a plentiful supply 
 of coals always obtainable at Hakodate, ships running between 
 Hongkong and Vancouver will call here to coal. That Hakodate 
 is, commercially speaking, a very important place in Hokkaido 
 cannot in fairness be denied. The imports and exports at this 
 place amounted to nearly 2,000,000 of yen in the year 1891. 
 
THE HARBOUR AND TOWN OF HAKODATE 
 
SUMMARY OF INFORMATION CONCERNING 
 HAKODATE, HOKKAIDO, NIPPON. 
 
 Longitude East of Greenwich 140°. 44'. 24 
 
 North Latitude 41 0 . 46'. 30 
 
 Temperature (i 7 .) 8°. 25 
 
 Number of Houses 12,734 
 
 Population 57,943 
 
 Area of the Harbour (acres) 1,858 
 
 Government Buildings 8 
 
 English Consulate 1 
 
 Chinese Consulate 1 
 
 Hospitals 8 
 
 Physicians 87 
 
 Commercial School 1 
 
 Mercantile Marine School 1 
 
 Primary Schools 18 
 
 Pupils 4,266 
 
 Various Kinds of Schools 10 
 
 Pupils 600 
 
 American, English, French and Russian Missionary 
 
 Schools 4 
 
 Pupils 400 
 
 Buddhist Temples 13 
 
 Catholic, Greek, and Protestant Churches 4 
 
 National Banks 4 
 
 Commercial Companies 5 
 
 Steamship Companies 5 
 
 Newspapers 3 
 
 Number of Ships (departures) 1891 4,890 
 
 Tonnage of Ships 945,642 
 
 Number of Ships (arrivals) “ 4,773 
 
 Tonnage of Ships 963,954 
 
FROM HAKODATE TO 
 
 Tokyo (Capital) via Aomori 
 
 Yokohama 
 
 Kobe via Yokohama 
 
 Nagasaki via Bakwan 
 
 Aomori 
 
 Sapporo via Otaru 
 
 Sapporo via Mororan 
 
 Nemuro 
 
 Otaru 
 
 San Francisco 
 
 Shanghai 
 
 Hongkong 
 
 Vladivostock 
 
 Miles. 
 
 H &e a 59 1 e T , 
 
 1 ,, land 455 i 5 4 
 
 „ sea 529 
 
 ,, „ 876 
 
 831 
 
 59 
 
 by sea 2 2 1 | 
 
 „ land 22 j 2 43 
 
 „ sea 22 ) 
 
 ' land in] 
 
 ■ „ sea 295 
 
 „ 221 
 
 4,469 
 
 1,220 
 
 1,825 
 
 424 
 
 SUMMARY OF INFORMATION CONCERNING 
 HOKKAIDO, NIPPON. 
 
 Area of Hokkaido ... 
 
 Coast line 
 
 Number of Houses ... 
 
 Population 
 
 Arable land 
 
 Marine products 
 
 Agricultural products 
 M ineral products .... 
 Domestic Exports .... 
 
 Domestic Imports 
 
 Foreign Exports 
 Foreign Imports 
 
 ,sq. miles 41.396 
 » 3,037 
 
 87,346 
 
 429,837 
 
 .acres 2,425.755 
 yen 7,964,669 
 ; ,, 1,239,292 
 
 „ 1,296,598 
 
 8,084,487 
 8,5H,I34 
 638,709 
 217,481 
 
n KA1TEM0HI 
 
 General SVIerohasit. 
 
 importer. 
 
 JIo. 104, ^UYEHI 
 
 ROCHO, 
 
 J* 
 
 AKOD ATE. 
 
 Cotton, Silk, & Woollen Goods; 
 
 Hats, Caps, & Bonnets; 
 
 Shoes, Boots, Rain Coats; 
 
 Alcoholic Beverages, &c. 
 
 All goods are imported direct by tlie Firm. 
 
 PRICES REASONABLE. 
 
 rriHE above mentioned lias been appointed Agent at this 
 i port for the “MEIJI EIRE INSURANCE Co. Ld.,” 
 Tokyo, and is authorized to accept Risks on Buildings, Furniture 
 and Merchandise at current rates. 
 
 We are read g to art as Agents of Foreign Factories. 
 
 KANEMORI’S BRANCH, 
 
 SHIP-CHANMEl, 
 
 No. 4 , Naka Hamamaehi, Hakodate. 
 
 J}htnilht itopc.'j, (fain us, j§lochs, Anchors and ($l(nins, 
 1'imh'rns, || 'iimys, ftuiutinq Jjfotcriitls, 
 Xulnicutini] 0)ils, etc. 
 
 DIRECTLY IMPORTED. 
 
 Look ! Look ! SIGNAL FIRES. Look ! Look ! 
 
 MY OWN MAKE 
 
 I*RICES REASONABLE. 
 
KANEMORI’S BRANCH, 
 
 STATIONER k BOOKSELLER, 
 
 NO. 5, S UYEHTR 0 CH 0, HAKODATE. 
 
 PAPERS OF ALL KINDS, 
 
 Drawing & Arithmetical Instruments, Books, 
 Published at Home and Abroad. 
 
 PRESK SfC'CR By EVERY MRIL. 
 
 Ekaemoris Branch, 
 
 Dealer in Watches & Jewellery, 
 
 AGENT OF Messrs. J. COLOMBO Co., YOKOHAMA. 
 
 Watches, Clocks* Swiss: and ether make; 
 
 Chains, Rings, and ether Ornaments ; 
 
 Spectacles, Telescopes and Compasses. 
 
 Large Stock on Hand. PRICES ^OPERATE, 
 
 JIo. 7 , jS 
 
 UYEHIROCHO 
 
 , j* 
 
 AKODATE, 
 
Kanemori’s Branch Store, ^ 
 
 TAJ LOR & DBA. PER;, 
 
 A URGE DEPOT 
 
 Clothing, Trowsering, Lining Materials, etc, 
 me hut nnnoirr 
 THE CHEAPEST IN THIS TOWN. 
 
 All orders promptly executed, in the latest fashions. 
 
 No. 9, Suyehirocho, Hakodate. 
 
 Warehouse for the Public. 
 
 SITUATED IN A 
 
 CONVENIENT POSITION 
 
 FOR 
 
 SHIPPING AND LANDING. 
 
 ST OB AGE LOWEST BATES. 
 
 Ho, 0, Fun abac ho, lijakodate. 
 
THE NEW BRANCH 
 
 OF 
 
 
 N)© 6 49* S^ehirocho^ Hakodate, 
 
 WHOLESALE & RETAIL, 
 
 CARPETS, MATS, RUGS, FLOURS & SUGARS. 
 ALL OUR STOCK IS DIRECTLY IMPORTED. 
 QUALITY, BEST. PRICE, MODERATE. 
 
 M.mm T&me>te), 
 
 ARTIST & PHOTOGRAPHER, 
 
 No. 16, Kaishomachi, 
 
 HAKODATE. 
 
 ALL. THE MOST APPROVED STYLES OF 
 
 pij\[£ poprppiTUpB. 
 
 iiiiiiaioRiiaflaflicjaaaiaaiaiaifliiiiaiaus!SiiiisaBiiiiii8iiia 
 
 S ffl * IB 
 
 W M- M 
 
 m Tr A' T IT Tfr f n ® 
 
 fj£ it % ‘U f B v w E ft # 
 
ESTABLISHED 1878. 
 
 TBHE 
 
 IS THE OLDEST AND 
 
 Most Reliable Newspaper and has a very large 
 Circulation throughout the Empire. 
 
 PRINTING AND PUBLISHING OFFICE, 
 
 No. 5, Tomiokaeho, Hakodate, Japan. 
 
 >-*-4 
 
 T HE “HAKODATE SHIM BUN” contains all the Local 
 and Foreign News, especially the Commercial Items and 
 Market Returns, latest telegrams, shipping intelligence, corres- 
 pondence, advertisements, etc. 
 
 The office is situated in the fine harbour of Hakodate, 
 which port commands the most wealthy an 1 prosperous 
 Province of Hokkaido, and which perhaps will grow to be the 
 
 Future Commercial Centre of the World. 
 
 TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION & ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 The “Hakodate Shimbun” .yen 0.28 per month. 
 
 ,, ,, „ „ 3.00 per annum. 
 
 Published Daily, except on Mondays and Holidays. 
 
 ADVERTISING RATES 
 
 One line, 22 words .yen .04 per day. 
 
 More than three lines, each „ .03 H 
 
 POSTAGE EXTRA. 
 
 Read! Read!— Read this 
 
 Read ! 
 
 S n L l one n ijo minis lo know the shite off fjahodale, 
 nil ill 1 is the future (Commercial (Penhc 
 of the fforld, 
 
 UPST Must read this paper every day. READ, READ, READ, 
 
ILnT O T x C IH] 
 
 MORIKAME, BUTCHER. 
 
 No. 45> liigaslii Hamaeho, Hakodate, Japan. 
 
 We have for MANY YEARS 
 fbeen supplying ALL KINDS of 
 
 FOOD AND LIQUORS 
 
 or SHIP USE and PRIVATE 
 FAMILIES. We are the SOLE 
 SUPPLIERS of Foreign Men-of- 
 War. Our customers MAY BE 
 SURE of getting invariably the 
 
 1 
 
1879- Tokyo, 1890. 
 
 BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES, 
 
 T O TO DO, 
 
 BAKER & CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 53, Kaishomachi, Hakodate, Japan. 
 
 Alcoholic Beverages, Canned Meats and Fruits 
 
 FOR 
 
 SHIP PROVISIONS. 
 
 BRANCH STORE, 
 
 HIGASHI HAMAMACHI, HAKODATE. 
 
 (LEFT COEN EH HOUSE FRONTING THE WHARF.) 
 
 O UR BREADS, etc., liave proved themselves to be the 
 SWEETEST and most EXCELLENT, because the 
 wants of Men-of-war, Merchantmen and Residents here are 
 always supplied by us oniy. 
 
TRADE 
 
 MARK. 
 
 B. HIRATA & CO., 
 
 IRON MERCHANTS & MACHINISTS. 
 
 F 
 
 o. 
 
 10, StjYEHIROC 
 
 r 
 
 W E have for many 
 years been en- 
 gaged in the IRON 
 TRADE, and import 
 from the West all IRON 
 or OTHER METALS 
 used in building 
 constructive work, 
 beg to announce to 
 Manufacturers & Found- 
 ers in the West that we 
 shall at all times be most 
 happy to ACT as their 
 AGENTS, at very mo- 
 derate commission rates. 
 It is our policy to DEAL 
 HONESTLY with all 
 men. 
 
 HO, jdAKODATE, 
 
 HOKKAIDO, JAPAN. 
 
 ip 
 
 We/ f 
 Iron i 
 
 
 HARDWARE] > 
 
 mfwm.pt 
 
 m 
 
 Among our specialities, we may enumerate : — 
 
 (1) IRON and STEEL MATERIAL for SHIP and BRIDGE BUILD- 
 
 ING-, etc. 
 
 (2) ENGINES of all kinds and sizes STEAM PUMPS, STEAM- 
 
 ENGINES, etc. 
 
 (3) WORKSHOP MACHINERY. 
 
 (4) IRON TUBES; cast, copper, lead and brass tubes, for steam, gas and 
 
 water-works. 
 
 (5) TACKS, RIVETS, SCREWS and NAILS of all kinds. 
 
 (6) SCALES and MEASURE, S. 
 
 (7) HINGES, LOCKS, KEYS and every other kind of iron-work in 
 
 domestic or ornamental else. 
 
 This is an imperfect lid, but will convey an idea of the 
 WIDE SCOPE OF OUR BUSINESS. Manufacturers, etc., 
 are requested to send us their catalogues with a view of establish- 
 ing an Agency. 
 
TRADE MARK. 
 
 THE TOKYO TSUKIJ1 TYPE 
 
 FOUNDRY 
 
 No, 17, Tsukiji, Nichome, Tokyo, Japan. 
 
 ESTABLiSHED 1868. 
 
 HE oldest and yet the most progressive of 
 TYPE FOUNDRIES in 
 
 AND THE CHEAPEST 
 
 The World Over. 
 
 Comparison with the prices of American and European Type 
 Foundries shows that our types are actually cheaper than those 
 produced in the largest Foundries of the West. Our Works cover 
 an enormous space of ground, and our Workmen are as skilled as 
 they are ready to take hints from their Compeers in the Occident. 
 We can produce every kind of printing, from 
 
 Electrotypy, Lithography, Stereography, 
 up to iAKTOTFpl;, 
 
 COLLOTYPY, and SViEZZOTINT. 
 
 w m. iranre § 
 
 Our Sunrise Land is noted for the beauty of its scenery, for the 
 matchless perfection of snow-clad Fuji-san and the wonderful 
 temples of Nikko, BUX 
 
 nothing can exceed the perfection, beauty and durability of our 
 types ! They are iron-clad and last forever. Chinese, Japanese, 
 Sanskrit, Greek, German, Corean and Arabic fonts, of unrivalled 
 make ; Borders in Japanese style, with artistic arrangement of 
 Japan’s fairest flowers ; Presses of improved make, and all the 
 requisites of the Printer’s Art. 
 
 For further particulars, catalogues and specimen sheets, 
 ADDRESS, 
 
 S. MAGATA, Director. 
 
PORTLAND CEMENT OF SUPERIOR QUALITY. 
 
 TENSILE STRENGTH 
 
 above lbs., per sq. inch. 
 
 PRICE : — very cheap, 
 
 PRODUCTS uniform. 
 
 The Quality is certified by Dr. Wilh. Michaelis, of 
 Berlin, and Many Other Authorities. 
 
 HOKKAIDO CEMENT Co., 
 
 LIMITED. 
 
 HAKODATE, JAPAN. 
 
 q-p® ynj cp. c (Tp\ VTj m 9 Vf-qy . 
 
 NO. 8, SUYEHIROCHO, HAKODATE, JAPAN. 
 
 IJtitkv ilt {rirorei ico, Jfitolj anil ptomuil jjtoubituub 
 
 WINES AND SPIRITS OF SUPERIOR QUALITY. 
 
 NAVY CONTRACTORS AND COMPRADORS.