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The Columbia University Libraries reserve the right to refuse to accept a copying order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. Author: U.S. Tariff board Title: Wool and manufacturers of wool 2V. in Place: Washington, D.C Date: 1912 mmpymmmmammmKHmm MASTER NEGATIVE * COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DIVISION BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET ORIGINAL MATERIAL AS FILMED - EXISTING BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD -.■ Business D360.7 Un395 U. S. Tariff board. Wool and manxtfactures of wool. Message of tlie President of the ^Tnited States, transmit- ting a report of the Tariff board on schedule K of the Tariff law. Washington, Govt, print, off., 1912. 2 V. in 1. illus., fold, maps, diagrs,, tables. (62d Cong., 2d sess. House. Docu- ment, no. 342) CONTfNUEO ON NEXT CARD BUSINESS D360.7 Un395 U. S. Tariff board. Wool and manufactures of wool. 1912. (Card 2) Contents. — v. 1 (pts. 1-2) Message of the President. Letter of submittal, with summary of findings. Glossary. Baw wools production and shrinkage.— V. 2. (pts. 3-5 and Index) Manufacturing costs, tops, yarn, and cloth. Ready-made clothing. Wages and efficiency of labor and machinery in the United States. RESTRICTIONS ON USE: TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA FILM SIZE: 36mm REDUCTION RATIO: /3'l DATE FILMED: ■.^^ /f-9^ IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA ( IIA; IB IIB INITIALS: £3. TRACKING # : MSH009S^, h<,H l\[fl^ FILMED BY PRESERVATION RESOURCES. BETHLEHEM. PA. BIBLIOGRAPHIC IRREGULARITIES MAIN ENTRY: U.S. Tariff board Wool and manufacturers of wool BiblioaraDhIc Irregularities in the Orla lnal Document: List all volumes and pages affected; include name of institution if filming borrowed text. .Page(s) missing/not available: .Volume(s) missing/not available:. Illegible and/or damaged page(s):. Page(s) or volume(s) misnumbered Bound out of sequence: .Page(s) or volume(s) filmed from copy borrowed from y other; pagination begins with page 3 TRACKINGit: MSH00955 > O a o o CO X |S4 # CJ1 3 3 > o m CD CD OQ "^ O o M X -< 'V? ^. ^%** ^ e: *e *\ >^' fit o 3 3 w > ill J^/ a? O o 3 3 O fl^l=ISISP|?|5|5|- Is Is CO to N3 00 O' 00 rs3 b 1.0 mm 1.5 mm 2.0 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXVZ atx:clefghi|hlmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXVZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXVZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 2.5 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXVZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 ^o V ^a :x3 ^o ^tp fp ^^ '/M^ i^ :0 f^ ^f^ m O O ■o m -o o>o > C CO X TJ ^ ^ O 00 0(/) 5 m 30 o m ip 1— » r\> en o 3 3 3 CT • ABC cdef fy im FGH jklm HIJKLM Tinopqr! IJKLM nopqr OPQRST uvwxyzl OPQR uvwxy Kc: 1^ CO x OJ^ 00 IM s cn< o^x -nI-< OOM lO O i^^^^. '^J ^A^^'^~. w r 62d Congress ) 2d Session J HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES Kent Kail ^giiunbii i-yiiivftHy \ No.^?2 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL I MESSAGE OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES TRANSMITTING A REPORT OF THE TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K OF THE TARIFF LAW IN TWO VOLUMES VOLUME I (Parts 1 and 2) Message of the President Letter of Submittal, with Summary of Findings Glossary Raw Wool: Production and Shrinkage Ifidcx In Volume II Dfx'Ember 21, 1911.— Referred to the Committee on Ways and Means and ordered to be printed with illustrations WASHINGTOK GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1912 yj.j^m.j'^ 3-0 /t' ' / /2 Of ^ r.^J^A^f.^^^L^'^i 0/ i?tfpre»m^af im (fA« SermU concurring), That there be IhTpifiH'SS? ^^/;L^°°^* 9?Pje8 of House Document No. 342, beTng the message of SchedXi o tl\.riff w'^if^"' transmitting a report of the Tariff BoaPf on H vp« «nH « n^ 1 -^^f ^?^' ^^'^ P^'P^®^ ^°' '^e use of the House of Representa- tives and 8,000 copies for the use of the Senate. ^°^"ia Agreed to March 1, 1912. - » • CO en rr ; CONTENTS. Message of the President • Letter of submittal '.'..'.'.'.1'/, 7 Parti: Glossary on Schedule K. Section 1. Paragraphs relating to raw materials og Section 2. Paragraphs relating to manufactures 101 Section 3. Sheep Industry in leading countries joc Section 4. Wool manufactures in leading countries . 21» Appendix A. Duties in Austria-Hungary, Belgium, Canada, Fr'ance', "Ger- many, Italy, Japan, Russia, and Switzerland 265 Part 2^^AW W^' ^^°^P^^^*^^^*^ statement of United States duties, 1789-1909; ." 277 Section 1. Market grades and comparative production costs _ 297 Section 2. Woo shrinkages and methods of levying duties on raw wool ' '. '. 379 feection 6. Wools of Class 3 ^jj Addenda ( 1 ) . Special report on types"of British sheep" 'and "cost's'of "main- tenance— Sheep m Canada 441 Addenda ( 2^ . Special report on the wool industry "o*f Tus'traii'a" 459 Addenda (3). Notes on flock husbandry in New Zealand and"A"f"ric"a"A . ^ape <^oionies ^gg Addenda (4 . Notes on wool growing in South America 517 States ^^^ farming in Eastern, Southern, and Mid"d"le'"w"es"t Addenda (6). Notes on s'heep ranching in"westera"u"nited"sta"t"e"s 591 Addenda (7). Mohair production in United States '.'.'.'.'.'.[ 609 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 1 ,„ ILLUSTRATIONS. Facing I'm^'c. Wool in various forms (Illustration 1) 67 Tf pes of shoddy (Illustration 2) 69 Vdlue of products of wool manufactures in United States, 1860-1910 (Chart 1 ) . 86 Consumption of cotton in wool manufactures, 1869-1910 (Chart 2) 95 Raw wool, cotton, rags, and shoddy and wool waste and noils used by all branches wool manufactures, 1860-1910 ( Chart 3) 97 Worsted products (Illustration 3) 104 Basis of difference between carded wool and worsted goods (Illustration 4) 113 Number of sheep in United States, 1890-1910, classified ( Chart 4 ) 1 . . . 200 Importation of class 1, 2, and 3 wools, shoddy, rags, wool waste, and noils, 1890-1911 (Chart 5) 202 Raw wool, latest available statistics ( Diagram K2) 299 Map showing districta in western United States visited by agenta of Tariff R)ard 303 Standing of States with reference to number of sheep, 1890-1910 f diagram) . . 305 Steady increase in mutton supplies and diminished marketing of cattle and hogs for 45 years (diagram) 344 Diagram showing freights on grease wool by sea and railroad to Boston, Mass. . 353 Map of the world showing origin of class 3 wools 413 Lincoln shearling ram — Kent or Ronmey Marsh ram 443 Blackface mountain ram— Cheviot ram 444 Cotswold shearling ram — Oxford Down ram 446 Southdown shearling ram — Shropshire S-shear ram 448 Hampshire Down ram — Dorset horn ram 450 Special Australian stud ewes ( under 1 J years) — ^Australian merino ram that fioldfor$6,000 401 Patagonian estancia house — Crossbretl Romney sheep in South America 519 Home of an estanciero in Chubut, Argentina— II aulingp^elts in South America. 522 Shearing sheds and dipping vat, South America — ^Frigorilico on Straits of Magellan 526 Delaine type merino ram — Rambouillet ram 545 American merino, type "A" — American merino, type " B " 548 Arizona wool awaiting shipment at railroad— "Fleet" of camp wagons laid up for summer in Idaho 593 MESSAGE. To the Senate and House of Representatives: In my annual message to Congress, December, 1909, I stated that under section 2 of tlie act of August 5, 1909, 1 had appointed a Tariff Board of three members to cooperate with the State Department in the administration of the maximum and minimum clause of that act, to make a glossary or encyclopedia of the existing tariff so as to render its terms intelligible to the ordinary reader, and then to investigate industrial conditions and costs of production at home and abroad with a view to determining to what extent existing tariff rates actually exemplify the protective principle, viz, that duties should be made adequate, and only adequate, to equalize the difference in cost of production at home and abroad. I further stated that I believed these investigations would be of ^eat value as a basis for accurate legislation, and that I should from time to time recommend to Congress the revision of certain sched- ules in accordance with the findings of the board. In the last session of the Sixty-first Congress a bill creating a per- manent Tariff Board of five members, of whom not more than three should be of the same political party, passed each House, but failed of enactment because of slight differences on which agreement was not reached before adjournment. An appropriation act provided that the nermanent Tariff Board, if created by statute, should report to Congress on Schedule K in December, 1911. Therefore, to carry out so far as lay witliin my power the purposes of this bill for a permanent Tariff Board, I appointed in March, 1911, a board of five, adding two members of such party affihation as would have fulfilled the statutory requirement, and du-ected them to make a report to me on Schedule K of the tariff act in December of this year. In my message of August 17, 1911, accompanying the veto of the wool bill, I said that, in my judgment, Schedule K should be revised and the rates reduced. My veto was based on the ground that, since the Tariff Board would make, in December, a detaikd report on wool and wool manufactures, with special reference to the relation of the existing rates of duties to relative costs here and abroad, public policy and a fair regard to the interests of the producers and the manufac- turers on the one hand and of the consumers on the other demanded that legislation should not be hastily enacted in the absence of such information; that I was not myself possessed at that time of adequate knowledge of the facts to determine whether or not the proposed act was m accord with my pledge to support a fair and reasonable pro- tective pohcy; that such legislation might prove only temporary and mttict upon a great industry the evils of continued uncertainty. m ^^ lierewith submit a report of the Tariff Board on Schedule K. Ihe board is unanimous in its findings. On the basis of these findings 4 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, I now recommend that the Congress proceed to a consideration of this schedule with a view to its revision and a general reduction of its rates. The report shows that the present method of assessing the dutj on raw wool — this is, hy a specific rate on the erease pound (i. e., unscoured) — operates to exclude wools of high shrinkage in scouring but fine quality from the American market and thereby lessens the range of wools available to the domestic manufacturer; that the duty on scoured wool of 33 cents per pound is prohibitory and operates to exclude the importation of clean, low-priced foreign wools of inferior grades, which are nevertheless valuable material for manufacturmg, and wliich can not be imported in the grease because of their heavy shrmkage. Such wools, if imported, might be used to displace the cheap substitutes now in use. To make the precedmg para^aph a little plainer, take the instance of a hundred pounds of lirst-class wool imported under the present duty, which is 11 cents a pound. That would make the duty on the hundred pounds $11. The merchantable part of the wool thus imported is the weight of the wool of this hundred pounds after scour- ing. If the wool shrinks 80 per cent, as some wools do, then the duty in such a case w^ould amount to $11 on 20 pounds of scoured wool. This, of course, would be prohibitorv. If the wool shrinks only 50 per cent, it would be $11 on 50 pounds of wool, and this is near to the average of the great bulk of wools that are imported from Australia, which is the pnncipal source of our imported wool. These discrimmations could be overcome by assessing a duty in ad valorem tenns, but tliis method is open to the objection, first, that it increases admmistrative difficulties and tends to decrease revenue through undervaluation; and, second, that as prices advance, the ad valorem rate increases the duty per pound at the time when the con- sumer most needs rehef and the proclucer can best stand competition ; while if prices decline the duty is decreased at the time when the con- sumer is least burdened by the price and the producer most needs protection. Another method of meetmg the difficulty of taxing the grease pound is to assess a specific duty on grease wool in terms of its scoured con- tent. This obviates the chief evil of the present system, namely, the discrimination due to different shrinkages, and thereby tends greatly to equalize the duty. The board reports that this method is feasible in practice and could be administered without great expense. The scoured content of the wool is the basis on which users of wool make their calculations, and a duty of tliis kind would fit the usages of the trade. One effect of this method of assessment would be that, regard- less of the rate of duty, there would be an increase in the supply and variety of wool by making available to the American market wools of both low and fine quality now excluded. The report shows in detail the difficulties involved in attempting to state in categorical terms the cost of wool production and the great differences in cost as between different regions and different types of wool. It is found, however, that, taking all varieties in account, the average cost of production for the whole American clip is higher than the cost in the chief competing country by an amount somewhat less than the present duty. The report shows that the duties on noils, wool wastes, and shoddy, which are adjusted to the rate of 33 cents on scoured wool are pro- REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. § hibitory in the same measure that the duty on scoured wool is pro- hibitory. In general, thev are assessed at rates as high as, or higher, than the duties paid on the clean content of wools actually imported. They should be reduced and so adjusted to the rate on wool as to bear their proper proportion to the real rate levied on the actual wool imports. The duties on many classes of wool manufacture are prohibitory and greatly in excess of the difference in cost of production here and abroad. This is true of tops, of yarns (with the exception of worsted yams of a very high grade), and of low and medium grade cloth of heavy weight. On tops up to 52 cents a pound in value, and on yarns of 65 cents in value, the rate is 100 per cent with correspondingly higher rates for lower values. On cheap and medium grade cloths, the existing rates frequently run to 150 per cent and on some cheap goods to over 200 per cent. This is largely due to that part of the duty which is levied ostensibly to compensate the manuiacturer for the enhanced cost of his raw material due to the duty on wool. As a matter of fact, this compensatory duty, for numerous classes of goods, is much in excess of the amount needed for strict compensation. On the other hand, the findings show that the duties which run to such high ad valorem equivalents are prohibitory, since the goods are not imported, but that the prices of domestic fabrics are not raised by the luU amount of duty. On a set of 1-yard samples of 16 English fabrics, which are completely excluded by the present tariff rates, it was foind that the total fomgn value y/es $4L84; the duties which would have been assessed had these fabrics been imported, $76.90; the foreign value plus the amount of the duty, $118.74; or a nominal duty of 183 per cent. In fact, however, practicaUy identical fabrics of domestic make sold at the same time at $69.75, showmg an enhanced price over the foreign market value of but 67 per cent. Although these duties do not increase prices of domestic goods by anything like their full amount, it is none the less true that such prohibitive duties ehminate the possibUity of foreign competition, even in time of scarcity; that they form a temptation to monopoly and conspiracies to control domestic prices; that they are much in excess of the difference in cost of production here and abroad; and that they should be reduced to a point which accords with this principle. The findings of the board show that in this industry the actual manufacturing cost, aside from the question of the price of materials, is much higher in this country than it is abroad; that in the making of yarn and cloth the domestic woolen or worsted manufacturer has in general no advantage in the form of superior machinery or more efficient labor to offset the higher wages paid in this country. The findings show that the cost of turning wool into yarn in this country IS about double that in the leading competing country and that the cost of turning yarn into cloth is somewhat more than double. Under the protective policy a great industry, involving the welfare of hundreds of thousands of people, has oeen established despite these handicaps. In recommending revision and reduction I therefore urge that action be taken with these facts in mind, to the end that an important and established industry may not be jeopardized. V 6 BEPOKT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The Tariff Board reports that no equitable method has been found to levy purely specific duties on woolen and worsted fabrics and that, excepting for a compensatory duty, the rat© must be ad valorem on Buch manufactures. It is important to realize, however, that no flat ad valorem rate on such f&Drics can be made to work fairly and effectively. Any single rate which is high enough to equalize the difference in manufacturing cost at home and abroad on highly finished goods, involving sucn labor, would be proliibitory on cheaper goods, in which the labor cost is a smaller proportion of the total value. Conversely, a rate only adequate to equalize this difference on cheaper goods would remove protection from the fine-goods manu- facture, the increase in which has been one of the strilving features of the trade's development in recent years. I therefore recommend that in any revision the importance of a graduated scale of ad valorem duties on cloths be carefuflv considered and applied. I venture to say that no legislative body has ever liad presented to it a more complete and exhaustive report than tliis on so difficult and complicated a subject as the relative costs of wool and woolens the world over. It is a monument to the thoroughness, industry, impar- tiality, and accuracy of the men engaged in its making. They were chosen from both political parties, but nave allowed no partisan spirit to prompt or control their inquiries. They are unanimous in tlieir finainffs. I feel sure that after the report has been printed and studied the value of such a compendium of exact knowledge in respect to tliis schedule of the tariff will convince all of the wisdom of making such a board permanent in order that it may treat each schedule of the tariff as it has treated this and then keep its bureau of information up to date with current changes in the economic world. It is no part of the function of tlie Tariff Board to propose rates of duty. Their function is merely to present findings of fact on which rates of duty may be fairly determined in the Light of adeouate knowl- edge in accord with tlie economic policy to be followed. This is what the present report does. The findings of fact by the board show ample reason for the revision downward of Schedule K, in accord with the protective principle, and present the data as to relative costs and nnces from which may be determined what rates will fairly equalize the difference in production costs. I recommend that such revision be proceeded with at once, Wm. H. Taft. The White House, December 20, 191L Iwvivt Hal ^ttHiliia UnivtfSlljr LETTER OF SUBMITTAL. The PREsroENT: Office of The Tariff Board, Treasury Building, Washington f December 20 y 1911, Pursuant to your instructions to report to you in December, 1911, on Schedule K of the tariff law C'Wool, and manufactures of"), we have the honor to submit the following report, which consists of five parts, as follows: Part I. Analysis and Glossary of Schedule K in the present tariff act, together with a statistical survey of the woolen industry in leading countries. Part II. Report on Raw Wool, Production and Shrinkage. Part III. Report on Manufacturing Costs. Part IV. Report on Ready-made Clothing and Wearing Apparel. Part V. Report on Wages and Efficiency of Labor and Machinery in the United States. GLOSSARY. In Part I the existing tariff act, as it relates to wool and manufac- tures of wool, is analyzed paragraph by paragraph. Under each head is a description of the diflferent articles on which duties are levied by the paragraph in question, with a brief explanation of the process of manufacture and the relation of each commodity to the trade; an analysis in detail of the present duties and method of assessment with a statement of duties in ad valorem terms. It pre- sents statistics as to production, imports, and exports of each com- modity, together with a section on the relation of the various branches of wool manufactures to raw materials ; and an explanation of the origin and theory of compensatory duties. To this is added a statistical section, which shows the character and localization of the industry in the leading countries of the world and the movement of the world's commerce in wool and manufactures of wool. RAW WOOL. Part II, the Report on Raw Wool, covers an extended study of the general conditions surrounding the production of raw wools, not onlv m the United States but in Australasia, South America, the South African Cape, Great Britain, and other countries. Relative costs of production have been developed as closely as possible in the case of the^ leading clips and comparative shrinkages established of the various important varieties of raw wool. Special agents gathered full information as to the expenses attaching to sheep farming and ranching at home and abroad. This part of the 8 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. investkation was begun in 1910 and covered m the United Stateis 173 countils in 19 States. In all, nearly 1,200 wool growers were visited by the agents of the Tariff Board. Special agents were sent to Aus- tralia and South America, as well as to England and the C^ontinent. The board obtained from the books of a large number of miUs, both foreim and domestic, the actual yield of clean wool as compared with the grease weights of the more important grades m common use in tie woolen and worsted manufacturing industry, MANUFACTURING COSTS. Part III, the Report on Manufacturing Costs, includes a study of manufacturing costs in the United States and the leading for- eign countries. This section of the report is based upon compre- hensive detailed cost figures secured at the mills by the board and ^*^In^this*investigation the number of American mills visited by agents of the board from which properly verified information was obtained was 174. These mills are situated m 20 different States. They represent over 46,000 looms, 1,900,000 producing spindles, and 109,000 employees. They are not only representative of the industry, but comprise in looms and employees ^T'^'^a}, ""^ tuI productive capacity of the industry in the Umted States The cloth-making mills range in size from a 23-loom estabhshment to one running 2,700 looms. Of the mills making yarn exclusively, the rant^e was from 4,400 spindles to 46,000. , . -. * On tops and worsted yarns actual cost figures for a mven penod of production were obtained, and a detailed analysis made of items of cost by processes. In the case of cloths a collection of samples was made, representing the chief fines of goods m the market, and careful cost computations were made at the mills, from their records, on individual samples. , , ., i i • u Detailed cost schedules were prepared by the board covenng each process in manufacturing, and these were filled m by the agents of the board in consultation with the cost experts of the mill. In all cases a detailed statement was taken of "general e:jq)enses and fixed charc^es " for a year's period, together with the total pay roU (operating wages) for the same period. Overhead expenses were then prorated according to the proportion of this labor. These schedules were ac- companied by similar schedules covering tops and yarns which are filled out in the same manner. The report includes detailed returns of this character on 55 different fabrics. . j j x^ The European work on wages and cost of production extended to England, France, Germany, Austria, and Belgium. Estimates of the cost of production on specific domestic fabncs taken from the I nited States were secured from various manufacturers m ii^ngland, yer- many, and France, and the weavers' rates of pay per yard of cloth secured for these countries and for Belgium. . Wage scales covering the piece rates paid weavers, spmners, and other classes of labor were secured from all of the countnes visited by agents of the Tariff Board, and these are tabulated or otherwise pre- sented in the report. . , ^^^^o+;^^ Rates, wages, output, or production per machine and per operative were secured for weavers, spinners, carders, and many others. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 9 It is believed that this is the first successful attempt to couple foreign rates of wages and earnings with the real efficiency or speed of work in order to show actual labor costs. Weavers' rates per yard and the number of yards produced per weaver or per loom are given on all the sample fabrics, and efficiency data furnished for a large amount of other fully described fabrics, showing looms attended, speed of looms, weavers' rates per yard, and yards produced. READY-MADE CLOTHING. Part IV. The report on the ready-made clothing industry covers figures representing net annual sales of between $80,000,000 and $90,000,000, and some 60 different estabfishments. The houses visited were in the five leading centers of this manufacture — New York, Chicago, Philadelphia, Rochester, and Baltimore. The inquiry went into the question of the manufacturer's costs for his business as a whole, and also for typical garments. The chief aim kept in view was to ascertain the importance of the cost of cloth and of other woolen materials in the manufacture of clothing. This section of the report traces the wool from the back of the sheep to the back of the consumer, showing the relative increase in cost and price at each stage of the process. WAGES AND EFFICIENCY. Part V, the report on wages and efficiency of labor and machinery, includes a study of employees in the woofen and worsted industry, covering country of birth, sex and age, rates of wages and earnings, efficiency of employees, and efficiency of machinery, including the proportion of foreign-made machinery used in this country, the age of machines in use, and detailed figures on the variations in labor cost per pound in the manufacture of tops and yarns. For 11,080 looms there was kept under the direction of represen- tatives of the board a loom record for each day of the actual time the weavers were operating the looms and the number of the measured yards of cloth woven during the period for which the record was kept. The speed of each loom and the number of picks per inch in each piece, or cut, woven, of each style number, with weight and complete details of warp and filling yarns, ends, shuttles, and harness were secured for a total of 1,912,681 yards. It was impossible within the time limit set to make a detailed inquiry into the cost of production here and abroad of all of the great number of special articles included under the provisions of Schedule K. In many cases this would not be necessary. The relative con- ditions surrounding the manufacture of wool in general here and abroad may be determined from the conditions prevailing in the main lines of the industry. These are presented in this report, as outlined above. They cover raw wool, yarns, cloths, dress goods, ready-made clothing, and certain other articles of wearing apparel. It proved impracticable to carry out at one and the same time an indennite number of separate cost inquiries and bring them all to conclusion at a given date. For this reason we are not able to include 10 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. in the present report data as to the cost of underwear and carpets, regarding which our mvestigations are not sufficiently advanced to make the results practicaDv useful. In Part I of the report, however, an analysis is made of eacn paragraph of the schedule explaining the character of the articles included, the process of manufacture, the operation of existing duties, both specific and ad valorem, tlie statistics of production, imports and exports, and the relation of the different articles to the whole industry of wool manufacture. Findings of the Investigation. WOOL costs. The result of the raw-wool investigation establishes the fact that it costs more to grow wool in the United States than in any other country; that the merino wools required in such great volume by our mills are the most expensive of all wools produced; that the highest average cost of production of such wool in the world is in the State of Ohio and contiguous territory; and that the lowest average cost en similar wool is in Australia. It is not possible to state in exact terms the actual cost of producing a pound of wool considered by itself, for the simple reason that wool is but one of two products of the same operation. That is to say, flocks produce both fleeces and mutton — products entirely dissimilar in character and yet produced as the result of the same expenditure for forage and for labor. The board has deemed it best, therefore, for the purposes of this inquiry, to treat fleeces as tlie sole product and charge up against their production the entire receipts from other sources. This method gives an accurate return so far as the general results of flock maintenance are concerned; results which are comparable as between various sheep-growing regions. In order that results from the different sections and from different countries might be more comparable, the item of interest on invest- ment — which varies from 4 to 6 per cent in Austraha and from 8 to 10 per cent in our Western States — was left for consideration in con- nection with profits. For a similar reason the actual production cost of harvested crops fed to flocks was used instead of the market value of same. On this account the expense charges shown are materially lower than those commonly quoted in the industry. Figured in tliis manner, the board finds: That after crediting the flock with receipts from all sources other than wool, the latter product, in the case of the fine merino wools of the United States, is going to market with an average charge against it of not less than 12 cents per pound, not including interest on the investment. That the fine wools of the Ohio region are sold bearing an average charge for production of 19 cents per pound. That in the States east of the Missouri River wool production ia incidental to general farming. Here producers, with tne exception of certain-named districts, lay more stress upon the output of the mutton than of wool, and in such cases the receipts from the sale of sheep and lambs ordinarily cover the flock expense, leaving the wool for profit. Tlie position of the fine- wool producers, however, not only of the Ohio region, but of the far West, ia radically different. 1 EEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE E:.|^^ ai That in the western part of the United States, %mer C^lnniblA Universitar , wnera^oout tjjiro- ' thirds of the sheep of tne country are to be found, thrf-^fin^ and ''fine medium" wools carry an average charge of at least 11 cents per pound, interest not included. That if account is taken of the entire wool production of the country, including both fine and coarse wools, the average charge against the clip is about 9} cents per pound. That in Soutn America the corresponding charge is between 4 and 5 cents per pound. That in New Zealand and on the favorably situated runs of Aus- tralia it seems clear that at the present range of values for stock sheep and mutton the receipts from other sources than wool are carrying the total flock expense. So that taking Australasia as a whole it appears that a charge of a very few cents per pound lies against the great clips of that region in the aggregate. While the board can not undertake to name an exact figure in that case, it is certain that the Australasian costs at large fall materially below the average South American. That in the western United States the capitalization per head of sheep (exclusive of land) is $5.30^ upon which a gross profit of 6.2 per cent was realized during the 12 months under review. The interest rate in that region ranges from 8 to 10 per cent per annum. 'Hiat the labor, forage, and necessary miscellaneous expenses in the western United States exceed $2 per head per annum as against an estimated cost, covering the same elements of expense, of less than $1 in Australia and about $1.15 per head in South America. WOOL DUTIES. The board finds that the present method of levying the duties upon raw wool is defective in that it operates, by reason of the varying shrinkages of the different kinds or wool, to prevent the importation of many heavy conditioned sorts which, if imported, would add sub- stantially to tne stock of sound staple avaflable for the manufacture of woolen fabrics. That there is no vand reason for the discrimination that now exists as between the wools of Class I (merino and crossbred) and Class II (English, medium and luster), and that these two classes could properly be consolidated. That the present duty of 33 cents per pound on scoured wool is prohibitive, preventing effectually the importation of clean, low- priced foreign wools of the lower grades that would be exceedingly useful in the manufacture of woolens in this country, and if so used might displace in large measure the cheap substitutes now so fre- quently employed in that industry. The fact that such cheap wools are of such heavy shrinkage that they can not be imported in an unscoured state emphasizes all the more the prohibitive character of tli^present scoured-pound duty. That an ad valorem rate is open to graTe objection from the point of view of administration and revenue, in the case of a crude, bulky commodity like wool, produced in many remote regions and finding Its way into the markets through so many various channels of trade. That furthermore an ad valorem rate would give a high duty per pound when prices are high; that is, when the consumer most needs 12 EEPOKT OF TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 1 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 13 relief and the producer is most able to bear competition. With a low price of wool the duty per pound would be low: that is, at the time when the consumer has less need of competing wools and the producer is least able to bear competition. That the chief objections to the present rate on the grease pound could be met by levying some form of specific duty based on the clean or scoured content of the wool imported. That the necessary macliinery for testing at ports of entry could be installed promptly and cheaply and could be maintained efficiently at small expense. SHRINKAGES. The rates of Schedule K are based upon the assumption that wools in the grease shrink an average of 66 § per cent. While it is true that considerable quantities of wool do shrink that amount, the average is well below that figure. Certain very heavy wools grown at the South African Cape and in certain districts of Australia, South Amer- ica, and the Western United States shrink as high as 70 to 75 per cent. From actual examination of domestic miU records it is found that the average shrinkage of the fine merino wools now being imported into the United States from Australia and South America is about 48 per cent. SimHar wools from the same countries finding their way to Euro- pean markets shrink considerably more, which fict reflects the exclu- sion of the heavier conditioned wools from our markets. That the average shrinkage of our fine western wools is 67 per cent, the average shriiiage for all the wools of that region being 62 per cent. That the average shrinkage of Ohio and other fine domestic fleeces is 60 per cent. That the average shrinkage of the lower grade domestic sorts is about 45 per cent. That the national average shrinkage would fall between 55 per cent and 60 per cent. That Soutn American crossbred wools now being imported shrink an average of about 33 per cent and the Australian crossbreds about 30 per cent. That the Class II (English washed) wools shrink as a rule from 18 to 30 per cent. In tnis connection it should be borne in mind that the merino and crossbred fleeces now entering our market have been as a rule '* skirted" or trimmed before shipment, so that their yield cf clean wool is higher than would otherwise be the case. NOU.S AND WASTES. PracticaUy no wool wastes or shoddy are imported under the pres- ent rates, which are, in effect, prohibitory. The same duties are applied to wastes of an entirely oifferent character. No comparison as to the cost of production of such products can be made. Noils and wastes are merely by-products of the worsted industry, and their values bear in the main a certain definite relation to the value of the ' ^k scoured wool from which they come. The present duties on these products are in theory adjusted to the actual rates of duty paid on the scoured content of the wools imported, but are not so adjusted in fact. For example, the duty on soft wastes is nearly half as high again as the duties levied on the scoured content of wools actually imported under present conditions, and the rate of duty on noOs is practically equal to the rate of duty actually paid on the scoured content of imported wool. BAGS AND SHODDY. The duties on rags and shoddy are practically prohibitory. The duty on shoddy bears no relation to the cost of manufacture. A much lower duty would equalize the difference in cost of production to the shoddy manufacturer. Shoddy, however, competes with wool, and the duty acts as protection to the woolgrower. Although all shod- dies except the very finest are of much less value than scoured wool, the present duty is higher than the duty on the scoured content of the wool actually imported. As a matter of fact, however, woolen rags are exported very largely from the United States and American shoddy is imported into Great Britain in considerable quantities. WOOL MANUFACTURES. The present duty practically excludes tops from importation and all yarns except worsted yarns of the greatest fineness and value. The same is true of low-grade and medium cloth for men's wear, with the possible exception of very light-weight goods. A considerable quantity of the fine and expensive fabrics are imported. In the fiscal year 1911 these paid a duty amounting to 94.17 per cent ad valorem. These did not constitute 3 per cent of the total consumption of the United States. Women's dress goods, weighing 4 ounces or under per yard, are stiU imported in large quantities, and these paid in 1911 an average duty of 102 per cent. On fabrics there are two duties, a specific dutjr levied on weight and an ad valorem duty. The specific duty theoretically compensates the manufacturer for the extra cost of his raw material due to the duty on wool. This compensatory duty is now fixed at a point intended to be adequate to compensate tiie manufacturer using nothing but foreign wool of 66§ per cent shrinkage. Practically no wool of such heavy shrinkage is imported under the present tariff rates. Conse- quently the specific duty is more than compensatory for manufac- turers using wools of lighter shrinkage. This is true to a much greater extent in the case of fabrics made partly or whoUy of shoddy, wool waste, and cotton. An attempt to adjust the compensatory duty to the character of the material used in the fabric is made by tne present tariff act, which fixes the compen- satory duty at 33 cents a pound for goods worth not more than 40 cents a yard as against 44 cents per pound for goods worth more than 40 cents a yard. The lower rate, however, for the cheaper goods is equally in excess of the actual compensation needed as is the higher rate on medium goods. The result is that on low-grade goods a specific duty of 33 or 44 cents is sometimes in excess of the total value 14 BEFOBT OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDUI^ K. 0f the raw material in this country. Consequently the nominal duty on certain cheap fabrics, if imported— which is impossible under the existing duty— is commonly as high as 150 per cent ad valorem, and in some cases even over 200 per cent. Much of the objection to the present compensatory duty as giving excessive compensation would be removed by puttmg the duty on wool on the scoured basis instead of on the grease pound. The compensatory duty in that case could be adjust^ to the actual wool content in the case of all-wool goods, at least, and would be entirely independent of the disputed pomt of grease-wool shrinkages. As m the present act, it could be made proportionately lower for goods containing other materials than wool by means of a separation according to value. On cheap and medium grades of cloth for men's and women's wear, excepting light-weight dress goods, the combined specific and ad valorem duties are much in excess of the difference in the cost of production here and abroad. RELATIVE PRICES. On the other hand, prices in this country on the fabrics j ust referred to are not increased by the full amount of the duty. A collection of representative samples was made in England of goods ranging from those which can not be imported at all to those which are imported continually. These were then matched with a collection of samples of American-made cloths which were fairly comparable, and the mill prices compared for the same date. It is found that on goods entirely excluded the nominal rates of duty would reach an ad valorem rate of 150 or even over 200 per cent, but that the American fabric is actually sold in the market at from only 60 to 80 per cent higher than similar goods sold abroad. On 16 samples of foreign goods, for instance, none of which are imported, the figures are as follows: Total of foreign prices - ; • ^J- ^ Duties which would have been aaeeased had they been unported i J « ? Foreiough there Ire wide variations in both countries from «"".*«,?»"' t'f^''"^!'.'^'*^ cost for the same quality and cOunt of yams in the United States is Xut t.^'ice that L England. The difference m Uie cost between the United States and Germany is not so great. This refers to the inere cost of turning t«P« "^J^, 3^»™' ,'^7„^£ course does not mean that the difference in cost is equal to 100 per ^nt^f the foreign selling value. The foreign conversion cost of yam from tops, except in the case of the finest yams, is normally less than 20 per cent of the total market value of the yarn. Care should be taken not to confuse the ratio between manufacturing costs and the ratio between total values, including cost of raw material. WOOLEN AND WORSTED INDUSTRY. Tlie difference in manufacturing cost here and abroad of woolen and worsted fabrics (from yarn to finished cloth) varies greatly, according to the character of the fabrics. The main processes included are weaving, finishing, and dyeing. The figures of the board show that the cost of turning yarn into cloth in the United States compared with England is all the way from 60 per cent to 170 per cent higher, according to the character of the fabric. For a great variety of fabrics the American conversion cost is from 100 to 150 per cent greater than the English cost. This is further substantiated by the fact that the weaving scales per yard of product in the two countries vary in ahnost exactly the same proportions. The difference m cost of manufacturing in France and the United States is found to be very close to the difference between England and the United States. On the other hand, the difference in the cost of the manufacture in the United States and Germany is some- what less. Further, it should* be pointed out that the statement that the differ- ence in the cost of manufacturing cloth is 100 per cent or more does not mean 100 per cent of the market value of the cloth. It merely means that, given the same yarn, the cost of weaving and finishing in this country is generally somewhat more than double that in England. It is impossible to express this difference in relation to the total value of the product, since the material going into two differ- ent articles having the same conversion cost may vary widely in value: while, on the other hand, the material for the production of exactly the same article may vary widely in value at two different periods and the conversion cost remain exactly the same. METHOD OF ASSESSING DUTIES. If an ad valorem duty be placed upon raw wool, the duties on manufactures of wool must necessarily be ad valorem duties. If a specific duty be placed on the scoured content of the raw wool, it would then be possible to levy a specific duty on tops and yams. The system of specific duties, as is well known, has many advantages for administrative and revenue purposes. It has a further advantage from the point of view of adjusting duties to difference in cost of production at home and abroad. The duty could then be maintained at a constant and definite figure corresponding to a definite and con- stant difference in cost of manufacture. Under an ad valorem sys- tem the amount of duty varies with every fluctuation in the market value of the raw material, whde the difference in the cost of manu- facture remains relatively constant. In the case of yams which are fairly well standardized, and where the cost varies in a fairly definite relation to the fineness of the spinning, a scale of specific duties graduated to the different sizes of yarn could be readily arranged and administered. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 2 18 KEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. However, it is probably impracticable to adopt a purely specific system of duties on woven fabrics. These are not standardized and vary widely in material, in construction, and in conversion costs. No feasible sctieme of classifying and describing fabrics in terms corre- sponding to diiferences in conversion cost has yet been worked out. CJonsequently, even if the specific system of duties were adopted for wool and yarn it would be necessary to combine a specific coAipensa- tory duty with an ad valorem rate for woven fabrics. There are grave difficulties, however, in attempting to place a flat ad valorem rate on manufactures of this kind. In certain grades of fabrics the value of the material is a very large proportion of the total value and the cost of manufacture relatively small. In the case of expensive and finely finished goods, on the other hand, the cost of material becomes less important and the labor or conversion cost becomes an increasingly large proportion of the total cost. The result is that a flat rate, adequate to offset the difference in cost of production on the finer goods, must be prohibitive on cheaper goods. Conversely, the rate which merely equalizes the difference in cost of Sroduction on cheaper goods would be inadequate to equalize the ifference in the cost of finer goods. A fair solution seems to be the adoption of a graduated scale under which an ad valorem rate assessed properly on goods of low value should then increase pro- gressively according to slight increments of value, up to whatever maximum rate should be fixed. * A single specific compensatory duty, if adequate for all-wool goods made from imported wool, would be excessive for low-grade goods containing cheaper materials. This could be partly offset by a Tower ad valorem rate on such goods; and furthermore specific compensa- tory duties could be assessed at two or more rates according to value. KSADT-MADE CLOTHING. Til© investigation into the ready-made ciotliing industry shows that the cloth is the largest element in the clothing produced and is equal to one-third of the net wholesale selling price. It varies with the grades of clothing produced, being highest relatively in the clieaper garments. The cost of linings is about 5 per cent of the net wliolc- sale selling price. The total cost of cloth and wo >len materials, taken as a whole, is equal to aburASrica, were the ones wWch compe^d were P5°"","'"-tV Amfirican wool. The term mestiza is the bpamsn most airectlj^ r^^j" ^fCedt^ designate wools produced bv a cross for''mixed j^ndwas usedtoa^^ ^^^.f^ ^^^^^ jUer.can SusheV StioU^rep, probably, descended fromsome^ f ^liW^^ed flocks of ^^^•,z^^:^JZi^n%'' « Argentma about 1600 ^daUowMW^j ^^ ^^ ^j^ wool P^'duced by tlus sheep c^^^ ^^^ therefore shrunk heavily, grease and the B^^nd of me P^P*^ ^^ j the" American menno, S:k^%:i^3"a, -S or mS are no longer iu commou S:SoTb Aequ^tro'^^^^^^^ the wool as possessing mermo qualities. (42 Fed. RepM668.) „-^ rlothin" wools" in class 1 ^ I>o«m doiAina '«««i«;-TbV;XorXw?w^^^^^^ wools gro^vn seems to be little else than a tradition, ^o^" J n^ ^ ^ ^j^ng the on the medium or shot woded sh^p o^ E^^^^^^ ^^^^'y* T^f„ m^ wookak Soned. A number of the ^ •'^TS^'onthSrri^ are mentioned among the class 2 sam- ^eT tef £t ^t ?|ort to^I^^^^^^^ - Sg bl? r^t r Sder I -^ t^Clia. ulJes^sT^^w^S Sr^^bi^rt^e'^f " rij^f Iv^S^^^^ ?r^^KXtf o^a^g^^one of the Enghsh mutton breeds (seep. 3.8 . ^^.'^f l^^^iJ;^^ ^^\ed sheep, swh by crossing the mermo with one of the long, ^sterwo^^^ ^j^ J the Lincoln Leicester, or Ronmey orjitn one ^ ^^^, especially the Shropshire. The "se of the CTOssorea , ^^ fii^t place, to the.development of the^zen mutt^^^^^ ^^^^, as itWame possible by means of rWration to b« p ^^^.^j^, Australasia and Argentina, the ^of ™„*^'15'!!erino did, but also a would not merelyyield them a wool crop as the meM^^a^a some of meat supply. The «ross with t^ie mutton breads fij ^ the wool-producmg qualities of the merino »«« ^\^ ^ ^ j^ com%mg market lamb. In tie second P^^ce, tiie i^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^% machinery, making it possible to comb ^^orur w ^ demand for wools such as are Foduced on the^cro^^^^^^^ with the expansion of the worsted industry went in f ^^^ of crossbre.^ wools. Crossbred wool is coaler tl^^^^ ' ^t making hard worsted y^J^^l^.^ .^^^^^o We woo because^f in shrinkage as compared with the mermo. j.u<»d BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 33 I the presence of merino blood are all classified under the United States tariff as class 1 wools. Third-class wools in class 1. — ^At the time of the debate on the act of 1897 the growers made the persistent claim that certain of the better third-class wools were being used in the manufacture of blankets and coarse clothing and therefore supplanting the domestic wool. In order to meet tliis demand certain wools — ^Bagdad wool, China lamb's wool, Castel Branco, Adrianople skin wool, and Egyptian wool — were taken out of class 3 and specifecally mentioned in class 1 in the acts of 1897 and 1909. Bagdad wool, as the name indicates, is produced near Bagdad, Turkey. Bagdad wool is somewhat better than kindred wools known as Awassi and Karadi, but they are all produced by native sheep. Locally Bagdad wool is used for making Arab cloaks. China wool is produced by the native, fat-rumped and long-legged, sheep of China. China lamb's wool is finer than the older growth. It is limited in quantity. Castel Branco is a coarse hairy wool produced by the native sheep of Portugal. It can not be used alone in making fabrics but may be mixed with other wools. Adrianople skin wools (known as Kassapbatchia wools) are pulled from the skins of slaugh- tered sheep in 'fiirkey. The butchers at Constantinople slaughter both the *'Karawan" or fat tail, native breed, and the "Kevergick" breed, which is descended from the Spanish merino. In some of the pulleries these two grades of wool are carelessly mixed, and these mixed wools by virtue of their merino blood are dutiable as class 1 wools. Samples of Kassapbatchia wool are still found among the samples of both fii-st and tliird class in the wool classification. The better grades now pay the higher duty. Egyptian wools are from fat- tailed native sheep. The staple is long, coarse, and harsh, and must be mixed with sorter wools before it can be used in goods. All these wools are produced by native sheep and on the basis of blood classifi- cation belong in class 3. The inclusion of them in class 1 modifies to some extent the blood classification of the tariff. COUNTRIES PRODUCING CLASS 1 WOOLS. Paragraph 361 now proceeds to enumerate the localities from ^whicli class 1 wools may be imported, viz, Buenos Aires, New Zea- land, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Kussia, Great Britain, Canada, Egypt, and Morocco. South American wool. — Buenos Aires is the chief point of export for Argentine wools. In 1908 the Argentine census reported 67,211,754 sheep. Ten and one-half millions of these were native or third-class wool sheep and a little over 450,000 of them were English or second- class wool sheep. All the remainder (almost 56,000,000) were pro- ducers of wools of class 1. The full-blood merinos, largely Ram- bouillet, numbered less than 300,000, while the lincoln-Rambouillet cross was the most important.* The flocks of Uruguay, numbering about 26,000,000, have a lai^er per cent of merino blood than those of Argentina. Montevideo is the chief point of export. Punt a. Arenas, in the south of Chile, has within recent years become an important point of export for wool. 32080' » See p. 210 for complete tables on sheep in Argentma. -H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 3 34 BEPOBT or XAKIFF BOAED OH SCHEDULE K Some of the leading South American wooL, in the EugUsh market aro quoted in Table 1 : Table l.-QuoMiam in Londm/or South Jmmean woidi, [From the droolar of JMamih Schwartae & Co., Londoa.] Merino and first super combmp, JOper <«ot ^^^"' Merino good combing, 36 per «nt basis • Merino average, 30 per cent basis ■ Cro&5 bred super ( f! no ) ' Crossbred flood -17.7 13.2-13.9 20.a-21.3 17.2-18.8 lfi.8-2L8 Cent* per pound. ^ 'JO. 8 2 20.3 21^3 a>.8 1 45 per cent yield. 1 SO iier cent yield. It is cnstomarj: to buy South Ammcan^^ob^^^ ^l^n'^lo^J^ guaranteed yield m clean wo . „^ t^°|J"f ™t ^^^^"'refers^to If a'mti;';fi^Xd\rn :oi i^tCflrc\rMo^ south ^«^'«^f*?l'^? Sm p«ge 208 tor further sUtistics of sheep in South AJrica. 86 BEFORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. presented in Table 4. Years. 1907 1908 iiyuiii • ••••--•--•■-*■' 1910 Total re- export from • United Kingdom. Pounds. 269,135,040 312,073,305 325,450,849 390,106,753 334,643,683 Total reexport to the UBited States. Pounds. 63,%7,800 69,889,154 57,474,119 126,973,963 62,467,261 coarse or class 3 A\ooi i^P^^^^ "'V/'\ pnlonial or other class 1 wool S^nrl^L^edV^eSrC'ri^^^^^^^^ latter cla. recefyJlVe quantity of .coloni^ vrool, the precise ongm of which ^°^rirro/ciri^«^^^^ nrT fKA Tfin^ps of Alberta and Saskatchewan the menno crosses are ?s^d%rm^^^^^^^^ Pro Ws where th^^^^^^^^ P- cent of the sheep are found the Engli^ ^j;^^^^^^^^ in class 1 in the Wools from Morocco and Egypt ^^J®. ®^^"^!lf„ ^ o„«,,:^h-merm^ re^sion of 1897. Morocco wook contain a strain ^^ Spa^nsh merino ^XArl^^^^ i"e! tfey XTnSh'b^^^^^^^^ brids. It is true that almost aU ^^^.^^^^^^^ Shropshire, ^re represented ^^^^^^^^^^^^ anS are used for crossing and ^ot a^ pure breds^ IZlm^^^^ are pre- quotations of American wools on the 13oston woui m r sented in Table 5. Table ^.—Quotutions in Boston of American wooU. • [From Bulletin of Wool Manufacturers.] 1911, January- September. Ohio Pennsylvania, and West Virginia: \Vashed— ^ ^ XX and above X. ......"••••••*•*■■*' ••-• blood blood blood i'ine delaine Unwashed — Fine I blood 1 blood I blood jfine delaine... .t.. CeiUs per Cents per pound. pound. 29-34 34-37 27-32 32-35 31-38 3»-42 31-37 37-41 30-35 36-39 32-38 37-41 20-28 24-28 24-32 30-37 24-31 29-37 22-29 29-33 24-31 30-33i Cents per pourCi. 30-37 29-35 33-41 33-41 32-39 33-39 20-28 28-37 27-37 26-35 25-32 Cents per pound. 27 -31 26 -30 30 -35 29-34 29-33 29-34 18-23 24 -30 23-29 22-28 22-27 r REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K.*^'*^'"' MaUg/|^ CoI'IIIiiMa Utiiversi't^f Table 5.— Quotations in Boston of American woofe-5)ontit^e# Vork 1908 Hr.: Micliiean, Wisconsin, Xcw York, Washed — i blood I blood I blood .;;;.; Fine delaine Unwashed — Fine blood ' .' * " blood blood Fine delaine Kentucky and Indiana— Unwashed: ' l^^\ iblood Braid :: Missouri, Iowa, and Illinois— Unwashed: I blood i blood Braid Texas — Scoured basis: Spring, fine, 12 months Spring, fine, 6-8 months Spring, medium, 12 months ... Spring, medium, 6-8 months Fall, fine Fall^ medium California— Scoured basis: Spring, Northern, free, 12 months. . . Spring, Northern, free, 6-8 months ' Fall, free Fall, defective Territory wool: Montana, Wyoming," UtahVldaho/Orol gon. etc.— Scoured basis: Staple, fine and fine medium Staple, medium Clothing, fine and fine medium Clothing, medium New Mexico: Spring— Scoured basis- No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 Fall— Scoured basis— No.l No.2 No. 3 No. 4 Georgia and Southern— Unwashed . Cents per pound. 30-37 30-35 2S-33 31-36i 18-24J 23-31 23-30 21-28 23-2SJ 24-30 21-28 18-24 22-29 20-27 17-23 50-67 43-61 43-59 40-52 38-48 33-43 46-^4 41-58 32-47 25-40 53-68 48-61 43-60 40-52 47-58 38-50 25-38 20-30 37-48 31-40 23-32 20-28 20-27 1909 Cents per pound. 37-41 36-40 35-39 36-39 22-27 26-36 28-36 28-35 28-33 28-37 28-35 24-30 27-34 26-33 23-30 62-78 53-68 53-67 47-62 48-62 43-55 55-70 51-65 42-57 33-45 63-78 56-73 55-72 52-67 56-70 46-60 37-50 34-45 46-58 38-52 32-46 30-42 27-33 1910 Cents per pound. 32-40 32-40 31-38 31-38 19-27 27-36 27-35 25-34 23-31 28-37 »>-35 22-30 26-34 24-33 2(K-29 58-73 62-67 52-67 47-62 48-62 42-55 54-68 51-6-1 44-55 a3-45 60-74 55-68 64-69 50-65 55-68 45-58 36-48 34-45 44-56 38-.50 33-45 30-41 24-31 1911, January- Septem ber. Cents per pound. 28-33 27 -33 27-32 28-33 17-21 23 -29 23 -28 22J-27 22-26 23-29 22-28 20-23 22-28 22 -26 19-23 45-59 42 -53 42-^53 38-48 38 -48 36-43 45 -55 42-51 37-44 30-37 61 -62 47-57 45 -56 40 -52 45-56 41 -47 31 ^7 30-35 20-24 Eastern wools are sold washed (i. e., washed on the sheep's back) WvT'i^^^'*^'- !•' "^ the natural grease). The first quaUt/is Pick- lock and does not appear m the market quotations because it is very "X^l-'^ '^*•''' ^''^^'^^ produced by a pure Saxony merino sheep. q«™ JT4>1^ produced by a cross of the common merino and n ^TrTi F^ i!^^?^ "^ ^^P"' ^ full-blooded merino. -X" wool is from Lod - "(^^ \^^'"-f^^.^ i?"^^^- ."Half-blood,- -Three-eighths- in f h« ^, ^"^i^t^^-b-^?<>d.^ in^^ varying percentages of merino blood tL.A J P producing the wool. It should be noted, however, that whTrh ^r^d ""^^fl^ **'^ i^"*^"^^' ^^*,"^ ^"^^ *^ *h« bJ««d ^ the sheep ^f the ? W '''^^^^ ^''''^ ^'. to the relative coarseness and fineness ?L wn!^l • u^M^*^"*^ ^f^^^ ^^^*^^ i^ ^ shegP the finer, as a rule, ei^hZ il ' J'''^ V? possible to have a wool, fbr example, of three^ Woorwi; ""^ %r^*^ '*^.?? ^^-^^^ "^^«ss" ^r o^ a pract cally full- eS i^ f «.T* 1.^^^ ^^""^^ ^^'" "half-blood," - three-eighths-bfood," Lerino bWd in Thi'\''^'^^T?'l ^«^^^«tion with the proportion if menno blood m the sheep which produced the wool of one of these I gg BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. designations; and when they «re used by the manufactarer t^^^ suggest, as llo the designations 40s.. 50s. ^Os. etc-, to the English manufacturer the working and spmnmg quahty of the ^"o'- /^« te^'C delaine" indifat^ <" ■^'t^^K.'^Ttyjtldel^^^^ combine of 2i or more mches m length. In the toade, "owever, d^^Kr^ls L combing wools ^^ch are prep^ed for comW ^^^^ carding as distinguished from the long-luster wools which are pre p"ed^brforc combing. Braid wool is a coarse wool ^Western wools are sold on the scoured basis-i. e., the price mdicates thfiamount paid per pound for wool cleansed of its grease. In Texas, SdifoTa a^lfew^Iexico, the practice of shearing t.nce a year- spring and fall-prevails among some of the growers ^"^ t\« 7"' >^ cLsSed in that way. The staple of the fall chp is short and u^ed generally in felts or carded-woolen goods. Paragraph 362.— CI-ASS 2 WOOLS. m».= w« *l,.t « In eav Leicester, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, Down combing wools, cSS^^Mlr^'^c^lJngw^^^ the terms herein used, and alao hair of the camel, Angora goai, aii»u., »" asimala. t j.x -v v v. Class 2 wools are those grown on full-blood sheep of the Jl-nghsu tvpes^r oiTCTOSsbreds, othel than merino crosses, wfiich show a per- 5tfb?e t^e of Enghsh blood The blackface ^f^^^-utio? or Scotland have in some cases been crossed Y^^h th* Che^^ot m Leicester. The presence of the Enghsh Wood n t^. .^°°1 P^^^"'^^^^ by these crosses makes it dutiable as class 2771;, „^»*^?Xr wools We been included, because of their am^>"ty,,t° *it °?^j"fCi Ru^ mohair, alpaca, and other like haws. Camel's hair other than ivuv sian is also dutiable under class 2. „,„j„norI l,v tlm Leicester, GoUvxM, ani Lj«co rM,A«re.-The ^^"'f P^°/"X.''y ^ CKcellent lustrous dress goods and braids. There are two types of the Leicester sheep, the 05i« «f 1?^ t^^* BakeweU Leicester,' the other the Border Leicester The Leicester produces a fleece of fine, long wool weighmg ^'f ^* . .r^hf tlnited Sotswold has probably been more extensively used in the United Statrs than th^Leicester or the Lincohi. It is a large sheep adap ed S;th to wool and mutton production. T^« ^t^'J^Fedleeo fleece heavy. The Lincoln w the largest of ^the long-wooled sheep. It is particularly noted for its long, strong^, lustrous wool a"J for its heavy fleeces, wfiich weigh 14 to 16 pounds, The Lmcobi and Ron- ney breeds are extensively used in Argentma and N^* Z**';*^^^^^^^^^ crying with merinos for the purpff »« "^^^^^^^ If North Mtak. of the lambs. The Cheviots, one of the hiU breeds of North Bntam, than the lustre wools, but, since the improvement of "^f .^^^ chinery, they can be readily combed. Some of the i^?«J^, \"^^^^^^^ breeds producing these wools are the Shropshire, the Oxford Down, iKel^Se. The Shropshire far exceeds in number any other BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 39 Enghsh breed in the United States. It has a good mutton form and produces a medium wool of good quahty. It is frequently used on mermo ewes to produce deskable market lambs. The Oxford is the largest of the Down breeds. It produces good market lambs and a wool that IS long and rather coarse. Wool from the Hampshire is of somewhat similar grade to the Shropshire wool, but the reputation of the breed rests primarily upon its great value as a producer of lambs for market. There are other Down breeds that might be mentioned, but It is sufficient to indicate here breeds that are typical. In general, these breeds are good producers of both mutton and wool. The wool IS coarser than mermo wool and the fleeces contain less oil and dirt. All Down wools when imported are dutiable as wool of the second class. Canada long wools,— When the act of 1867 was passed, the long wools produced on sheep of the Enghsh breeds in Canada were the important supply of raw material for the young worsted industry. They are still by far the most important wools produced in Canada for, especially m the eastern Provinces, the mutton is the prmcipal and wool the by-product. The Canadian breeds are the same as those of England, . Wools in the United Kingdom.— The United Kmgdom is by far the most important country producmg class 2 wools. Her flocks number over 31,000,000 sheep and lambs, all of which produce class 2 wool, except the few milhon blackface sheep of Scotland. Some of the leadmg Enghsh wools and their prices are reported m Table 6. Table Q.—Qiiotations in England for leading English wools. [From the Bradford Chamber of Commerce report and the Wool Record.] Select Kent wethers North hoggs North wethers Select Irisji hoggs Select Irish wethers York.shire hoggs Yorkshire wethers Lincoln hoggs Lincoln wethers Wiltshire tegs " . Wiltshire ewes [ Nott's half-bred hoge:s... Nott's half-bred wethers. Shropshire pick hoggs. . . Shropshire pick wethers. Super Stafford hoggs Super Stafford wethers. . Southdown tegs Southdown ewes ..., 1908 Cents per pound. 16.2-22.8 19. 3-25. 4 17.2-23.3 17.2-24.8 14. 7-22. 3 18. 3-22. 8 15. 2-21. 3 16. 2-22. 3 13. 2-19. 8 21. 8-24. 3 19. 8-23. 8 14. 2-23. 8 15. 2-22. 8 19.8-25.4 19.3-23.8 18. 8-24. 8 17.7-23.8 1909 Cents per pound. 19.3-24.3 23. 3-28. 4 20.3-25.4 2L8-25.9 19.3-23.3 21.3-23.8 17. 2-19. 8 18. 3-21. 8 16. 7-18. 8 23. 3-28. 9 22.3-27.9 21.3-26.4 19.3-25.4 24. 3-29. 4 23. 3-27. 9 22.3-27.4 20.8-26.4 1910 Cents per pound. 21.3-25.9 26. 4-28. 9 23.3-26.4 23.8-27.4 21.8-25.4 22. 3-24. 8 20. 3-22. 3 19. 3-21. 8 18.3-20.8 26.9-29.4 26.9-27.9 24. 3-26. 4 22.8-24.8 27. 4-29. 9 26.»-28.9 25.9-27.9 24.8-26.4 29.4^1.4 28. 4-29. 4 1911, January- November. Cents per pound. 22.3-23.3 22.8-26.4 22.3-23.3 22.8-23.8 2L3-22.3 2L8-22.3 20.3-20.8 20.3-20.8 19.8-20.3 27.4-28.4 26.9-27.9 25i4-27.4 25.4-26.9 24.3-25.4 23.3-24.3 27.4-30.4 27.4^29.4 Teg, hogg, or hogget wool is wool produced on a sheep 1 year old Which has not previously been clipped. The fiber is pomted and tapers toward the end. Hogg wool must not be confused with iamb s wool, which is wool removed from the lamb before it is 1 year Old, say at the age of 6 or 8 months. Shurled hogget wool is the tost fleece from a sheep after it has been shorn as a lamb. In the colonies and m the United States wether wool is wool produced on a 40 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. EXtVe c^^^^^^^ smaU number of sheep on the ranges of land for Argentina Lincoln wools are presented in Table 7. Table 7.— Quotations in England for Argentina Lincoln wools. [Frota tlio circular of Ilelmuth Schwartzc & Co.] ___^_____ Lincoln super. -- Linooin average 1908 19C9 1910 Q». per lb. 11.2-16.7 9. 0-14. 7 Cts. per lb. 15.--2t).3 13.2-16.7 CU. per Ih. 19.3-20.3 16.2-17.2 1911. CU. per lb. 20.3 17. i New Zealand also produces a small amount of class 2 ^ym>L JMmr.^Mohair Is produced by ^ho ^ff ^^,^^^ ^^ece M a native of the vilayet of Anojora, Asia tor. I^P^£"^^^^^ it pure white, lustrous hair winch is from 4 to 10 i^^nes in len t . Unaci in well-formed rindets from all parts of the body, iue iiDer Wt Lui ky^^^^^^^^ and is used In the manufacture of plushes, Ted t the?o\" in tC iring or removed by combmg. The amount produced by one goat is smaU. ^ ^ j^g „f *^ Alpaca.-Mpncf. is the wool wh^ch gc^ "^^^J^s from 7 to 15 Peruvian sheep, a genus alUed to the ^amei xi v inches in length and has a fair luster. It is usea loi '" Tronircoun?ries producing mohair in anv quantity are Turkey ine omy couiiui^a FY;^\ ,&^ . mi^ Angora goat was taken South Africa, and the United htates ^^^/^^^ South Africa IVoiYi Turkev into the Umted States in 184y ana miu P""; . . k^TsSfL number of Angora goats in Asia Jlinor ^ "°lf mO hii still a ver>^ important producmg ^""-^^^^^t'^GlTlIope In there were 3,585,910 An-ora goats o^Ji'^.^!^^i,.*'Lo United States. 1900 there were 454,932 fleeces of mohair ^'«'™ "^ *,^° ^^ojucinc' Pern and contiguous couafnes are the only countries proaucm, aloaca. Cashmere is produced in 1 hibet. „j „„j,mprp are ore- ^Quotations in Engird for alpaca, mohair, and cashmere are pre sented in Table 8. ■ft »! EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SdHEDULE K. Table 8. — Quotations in England for alpaca, mohair, and cashmere. [From the circular of Helmuth Schwartze & Co.] 41 Almca, super Islajr fleece Mohair, Turkish fair average (per pound less 5 per cent) . Mohair, Cape firsts (per pound net) China cashmere, first brown China camel's hair, best firsui 1908 Cts. per lb. 31.4-38.5 30.4-34.0 20. ^26. 4 29. 4-31. 4 16.2-22.3 1909 1910 Cts. per Z6. 32.4-^6.5 31.4-33.5 22.a-27.4 35.5-42.6 22.3-28.4 Cts. per lb. 36.0-38.1 33.0-33.5 28.4-28.9 30.4-36.5 27.4-28.9 September, 1911. Cts. perJb. 33.5 31.4 28.4 30.7 33.5 Paragraph 363.— CLASS 3 WOOLS. Class three, that is to say, Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, Russian camel's hair, and all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for. General characteristics. — Third-class wools represent a heterogeneous group of wools produced by native sheep in all parts of the world. Wherever they are grown, it is a sign of indifferent breeding or of natural conditions which prevent the raising of a better breed of sheep. If the shepherds should improve their flocks by introducing eithermerino or English blood, the wool would immediately be rated in a higher class. Generally speaking, these wools, because of the inhospitable con- ditions under which they are raised, are kempy — i. e., having white and darl: brittle hau-s, which resist dyeing — or cotted — i. e., matted or felted. While some of these wools are white, many are cream- colored, gray, brown, and black, or several of these colors may be found in the same fleece. Their fiber is coarse and covered with very- few serrations as compared with finer wools. Practically none of these wools can be used alone in making cloth such as is used in gar- ments worn by the American people. When coarse tweeds and chev- iots are in favor, some of the best are used in blending with better wools. They are also used to a limited degree m coarse blankets and felts. The carpet industry uses the great majority of these wools. The best wools are used in Wilton, Axminster, and Brussels carpets; the poorer grades in ingrain carpets and cheap floor coverings. Russian wools. — Donskoi wools, the most important wools grown in Russia, are the product of the common, coarse-wooled sheep. They are an excellent carpet wool, having a long, combing staple. They are used for the pile of Axminster and Wilton carpets. In the United States, Donskoi is used to designate Savolga, Kasan, Tscher- skoi, and Kuban wools. These wools are similar to the Donskoi wools but have their own distinguishing characteristics. Kasan wool, produced in the district of that name, is lustrous and has a downy undergrowth. It is customary to subject these to a careful washing after they are shorn from the sheep. The wools are soaked in tanks in which a certain amount of soap is used. After rinsing, the wool is dried in the sun. Rostov on the Don is the chief point of export for these wools. Some of the best wools grown in the Russian Empire are from the Province of Georgia, and are collectively known as the Georgian wools. Most of these wools are packed for shipment at Tiflis. Toucha and 42 BEPOBT OB* TilEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. REPOET OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 43 Nouka are the two leading grades, the former being the better. It is used in high-grade carpets. Nouka wool contains some colored hairs and is used in medium-grade carpets. These wools are not generally washed after shearing. Central Asian woofe.— Wools from Central Asia are known as Bo- khara wools, Turkestan, Merv, and Transcaspian wools, and Calmuc wools. Bokhara wools are shipped from the city of that name. They are gray or black and well adapted to feltmg. Turkestan, Merv, and Transcaspian wools are similar to Bokhara wool and used in medium-grade carpets. Calmuc wools are grown on sheep owned by the nomadic tribes of Kherghiz. The sheep have no care and m a result the wool is coarse and kempy . It is used only in low-grade carnets. The trade in Afghan wools from Afghanistan, the Kliorassan wools from the eastern part of Persia, the Kashgar wools from Chinese Turkestan, the Urga wool from central MongoHa, and Manchurian wool from eastern Mongolia are handled largely by Russian mer- chants. The Kashgar wools are the best of this group and^ are used now by the Russians to make woolen cloth. Afghan and Khorassaii wools have about 40 per cent of colored fiber. The autumn clij) is used in coarse felts. iJrga is a high-grade carpet wool; Manchurian wool is used in low-grade carpets, and is less valuable. TMrd-chss wools tn South America. — Native South American wools are grown on the Criolla sheep wliich are descended from the churro and aconchada races of Spain. Wools shipped from Valparaiso, Chile, are known as Valparaxso wools. Cordova wools are i^^rown and packed for market in the Provinces of Cordova and San Lius, Argen- tma. All South American third-class wools are of good quality and are used in making high-grade carpets. These wools are declining in supply, due to the crossing of the native sheep with improved Wools in Asia.— In paragraph 363 the only terms used to designate the many third-class wools produced in Asia are "native Smyrna" and **Syria.'^ All wools produced in Asia, except the Panderma wool which has some infusion of Merino blood, and Bagdad wool and Cluna lamb's wool which are arbitrarily classed as first-class wools, belong to the third class. ''Native Smyrna wooF' belongs to the Angora group of wools raised in Asia Minor. They contain very httlo colored wool and are adapted to making the best carpets. Smyrna is a great carpet manufacturing center and tliis industry uses much of this wool. The wools from Syna are known as Aleppo, Orfa, Damascus, and Jaffa wools. These wools are imported washed ; they are long comb- ing wools and are very choice for making carpets. From Mesopo- tamia are exported tlie Bagdad wool (now class 1 wool), the Awassi and the Karadi wools. Sometimes whole fleeces of these wools are colored and all have more or less gray hair in them. Bussorah wool is more irregular and tender than the Awassi and Elaradi wools and its shrinkage is heavier. Wools from India.— Wools exported from India (59,826,526 pounds IB 1909-10) are all third-class wools. Most of them are sent to Liver- pool, where they are sold at auction. They are collectively designated as East India wools. Joria is the finest of these wools. Yicanere wool ranks next to Joria in quality, and is sometimes used in making homespun and cheviots. Kandahar wools, which come into India ■'Vi I from Southern Afghanistan, are the best Indian carpet wools and from tliis wool the natives produce the well-known Indian carpets. Pacputan wools are of lower grade than the Kandahar and are used for cheap carpets. Wools from Chirm, — Cliina produces about one-third of the wool of the tliii'd class imported into the United States. The central, northern, and western parts of China are the wool-growing regions and Shanghai and Tientsin are the cliief centers for sorting, cleaning, and shippmg the wools. China wools vary in condition, coarseness, color, and in every otlier way, and many of them are without any specific name. Tlie term China Ball wool, often seen in market reports, is wool from northern China and is in the form of rolls or balls of wool which have been combed or torn from the sheep. Some of these are of fine grade. CUss S xDool in Europe. — Turkey and Greece are mentioned as sources of class 3 wools. The only third-class wool grown in Turkey is the Albanian wool and in Greece the Volo wool. The poorer grades of the Kassapbatcliia or pulled wool from the puUeries of Constanti- nople and other centers are dutiable as class 3 wools. As for Europe in general, the amount of coarse wool raised is of small and decreasing importance. There is some coarse wool in France and Spain known as Pyrenean wool and in Austria-Hungary as Zackel wool. Much more important than these is the Blackface wool of Scotland— a wool which is a carpet wool par excellence. It grows on the picturesque sheep of the Scotch Highlands and in some respects has no rival in tlie world. American merchants are now buying most of the wool produced in Iceland. The fine, downy undergrowth of these wools yields a good noil when combed. They are excellent carpet wools. Rmsian cameVs Mir. — The chief use of camel's hair is in making bagging for pressing cotton seed. For this purpose the long, strong hau-s are tlie most desirable. Orenburg is a large center for the sale of Russian cameFs hair. Number of native sheep,— StSLtistics relating to the number of sheep producing class 3 wool are only approximately correct. Countries which have only native, unimproved sheep are generally deficient in careful statistical reports. Figures given are estimates. The num- ber of sheep in the Kussian Emphe, including the Asiatic Provinces, is about 80,000,000; m the Ottoman Emphe, 41,000,000; in Chma, 19,000,000; in British India (excluding the native states), 18,000,000: m Persia, 3,700,000; and in Iceland, 500,000. There are still about 10,500,000 native sheep in Argentina. The number of sheep produc- mg class 3 wool is declining, for improved breeds are in many coun- tries bemg crossed with native, which immediately takes the wool out of class 3. Prices of class 3 vxxds.—ln the majority of cases wool of class 3 is ^ught bjr pnvate agreement by dealers in the country of origin and slapped du-ect to the consuming country. Quotations on class 3 wools lor this reason are not so common as for other wools. London quota- tions for some of these wools are presented in Table 9. 1!«1S-«P«1I»1H»III 44 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABI> ON SCHEDULE K. Table 9. — Quotatiana in Ijmdmi of wools of the third class. J, From the circuliir of Helmuth Schwartze & Co., London.] East India: Joria, best whit© Candahar, best white Pac Pathan, yellow Persian Bagdad, fair averase Kassapbatchi, first white SjTian unwashed Oporto white fieeoe Bonskoi, average white caMinp Camel's hair, average, Orenburg. . . China wool Scotch Blackface wool ' 1006 Cts. IB. 13, 13. 9. 11. 7. 13. 12. 10, 12 9. per lb. 7-19.3 7-18.3 7-16.2 4-11.7 2-14.2 6-9.6 7-18.3 7-16. 7 1-13.2 2-14.2 6-15.2 1909 Cts. per lb. 17. 7-25. 9 16. 2-20. 3 14.2-16.2 12.2-13.9 12. 2-13. 7 10.6-11.7 14. 2-17. 2 14.2-16.2 13. 2-15. 2 14.7-16.7 11.9-16.2 1910 Cts. per lb. 23.^26.4 19.3-20.8 15.2-16.7 14.2-14.7 12.7-13.2 10.1-11.2 16.2-17.2 16.2-16.7 15.2 17.7 13. 7-15. 7 September, 1911. Cts, per lb. 21.3 19.3 16.2 12.2 10.1 16.2 16.7 16.7 17.7 14.6 » From the reiwt of the Bradfurd Chamber of Commerce. Paragraph 364.— STANI>ARI> SAMPLES. The Btandard eamples of all wools which are now or may be hereafter deposited in the principal customhouses of the United States, under the authority of the Secretary of the Treasury, shall be the etandards for the clasaificatiou of woola under this act, and the Secretary of the Treasury is authorized to renew these etandards and to make Buch additions to them from time to time as may be required, and he shall cause to bo deposited like standards in other cuetomhouees of the United States when they may be needed. The standard samples of all wools prepared under the authority of paragraphs 352 and 353 of tlie act of 1897 are in force under the pres- ent law with one exception. At that time tlie cabhiet of wool sam- ples to be used in the principal customhouses of the United States for •the purpose of classifymg wools imported was prepared in accordance with instructions from tlie Treasury Department hj WilUam H. Dimond, examiner of wool at the port of Boston. 1 he samples of wool are placed in jars. The cabinet as made by Mi\ Dimond con- tained 49 jars with samples of noils, waste, shoddy, mungo, flocks, and rags; 127 jars with samples of class 1 wools; 44 jars with samples of class 2 wools; 110 jars with samples of class 3 wools, and 29 jars with samples of goat and cattle hair. Each sample is designated in the complete list given in Treasury Decision No. 20681, made on December 20, 1900. The only change in wool classification made since then is recorded in Treasury Decision No. 30786, made on July 15, 1910. This decision withdrew from the cabinet samples Nos. 137 and 138, which classified Cape of Good Hope native skin wool in class 1, and placed these wools among the class 3 wools under the No. 399-B. . . ^ , When wools are imported they are classified by companson with the samples in the jars. These samples are based on the blood classifica- tion and determine conclusively whether a wool is dutiable under classes 1, 2, or 3. BEPOKT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Paragraph 365.— IMPROVED WOOLS. 45 Whenever wools of class three shall have been improved by the iadmixture of merino or English blood, from their present character as represented by the standard samples now or hereafter to be deposited in the principal customhouses of the United States, such improved wools shall be classified for duty either as class one or as class two, as the case may be. All native wools as soon as they are improved to any perceptible extent by the infusion of merino or English blood are thereby made dutiable under either first or second class. The provision in para- graph 365 has classed wool from the Cheviot-Blackface and Leicester- Blackface crosses in class 2 and the merino-native crosses found in South Africa, Argentina, Morocco, and Asia in class 1. The phrase "improved by the admixture of merino or English blood,'' however, has Deen held to mean that there must be sufficient admixture of blood to characterize the wool as improved, and that Cape sheepskins which are of inferior character and contain much hair and kemp are not witliin the purview of this provision. (T. D. 28632.) Paragraphs 366 and 367.— UNWASHED, WASHED, AND SCOUHED WOOLS. 366. The duty on wools of the first class which shall be imported washed shall be twice the amount of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed: and the duty on wools of the first and second classes which shall be imported scoured shall be three times the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed. The duty on wools of the third class, if imported in condition for use in carding or spinning into yarns, or which shall not contain more than eight per centum of dirt; or other foreign substance, shall be three times the duty to which they would oth^- wise be subjected. 367. Unwashed wools shall be considered such as shall have been shorn from the sheep without any cleansing; that is, in their natural condition. Washed wools shall be considered such as have been washed with water only on the sheep's back, or on the skin. Wools of the first and second classes washed in any other maimer than on the sheep's back or on the skin shall be considered as scoured wool. Nature of woolin grease . — ^'Unwashed wools,'' paragraph 367 statues, ''shall be considered such as shall have been shorn from the sheep •without any cleansing." Unwashed wool is also known as "wool in the grease." This is the natural condition of wool. Aside from the wool fiber, wool in the grease is composed of {a) wool fat, (Jb) perspi- ration, and (c) the impurities or dirt which mechanically adhere to the wool. The wool fat and perspiration together are known as the yolk or suint. The wool-fat, which is secreted as a protection to the wool fiber, is valuable and is sometimes reclaimed. It is known in commerce as degras. It is a clear, greasy material, soluble in ether or naphtha. The perspiration is composed of potassium salts, which are soluble in water. Greasy wool, i. e., unwashed wool, is moet common in the market. Washed wool is least common, and scoured wool is found in considerable quantities in some grades of wool. Nature of washed wool — Paragraph 367 specifies that ''Washed wools shall be considered such as have been washed with water only on the sheep's back or on the skin." Washed wools are also referred to as fleece-washed, brook-washed, or back-washed wools. The process of washing is very simple. A few days before shearing the sheep are either driven into a shallow stream where the wool is squeezed and rinsed while on the back of the sheep, or where the pollution of the streams is forbidden, or where it is desired to reclaim 46 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 47 II the waste, the sheep may be washed in vats. The result of wasliinff is to increase the per cent of clean wool in a fleece by tlie removal of, first, the dirt mechanically adhering to the wool, and second, the perapiration wMch, as has been said, is soluble in water. Washing doss 3 wools, — ^Wools may be waslied otherwise than on the sheep's back or on the skins and still be washed wools. The last clause of paragraph 367 says that ''Wools cf the/r«^ or seamL classes washed in any other manner than on the slieep's back or on the skin shall be considered as scoured wool." Nothmg is said here about third-class wools. It therefore follows that these wools may be washed after they are removed from the sheep's back, i. e., tub- washed, provided, as stated in the last clause of paragraph 366, the "washing shall leave at least 8 per cent of dirt or other foreign substances" in the wool. In some of the countries producing class 3 wools the wools are washed after shearing. Scouring as defined hy the law. — Scouring as defined in paragraphs 366 and 367 is not preciselv the same as scouring in the industiy. The former does not include as much as the latter. Wools of tho first and second classes to be classed ''scoured" under the tarilf need only to be waslied in some way other than on. the sheep's back or on the skin Oast clause of 367). Wools of tlie third class are classed as scoured when they are "in condition for use in carding or spiiming into yams" or when they do "not contain more tlian 8 per cent of dirt or otner foreign substances" Oast clause of 366). Scouring in the industry. — The manufacturer buys his wool either scoured, washed, or in the grease. Wlien he receives it in either of the last two states he must scour it. This is a process of cleansing the fiber ready for the carding process. Its object is to remove mechanically the wool fat, the perspiration, and the dirt adhering to the wool. Of course, if tlie wool be properly washed before pur- chase, it is only necessary to remove the wool fat in order to have clean wool. These foreign materials, if left on the wool, would pre- vent "working" in subsequent processes, and the wool carrying them would not readily take the mordants and dyes in the dyehouse. Methods of scouriwg. — In scouring in the United States and in the United Kingdom it is most conmion to subject the wool to a potash soap bath. If the wools were unwashed, the potash salts in the wool (i. e., perspiration) may be sufficient to scour the wool without the addition ot soap. The wool is passed along through a series of tuba by means of mechanically operated rakes or forks. The water is warm and mixed with such chemicals as ammonia, sodium carbonate, etc. Between each tub is a pair of nip rollers, through wliich the wool is passed. The solution is thereby squeezed back mto each tub and the wool passed along into the comparatively clean solution of the next tub. As a rule, the wool will be in the solution about eight minutes and in that time pass through the series of tubs, from 48 to 60 feet in length. Another method of scouring, which is of growing importance, is known as the degreasing process. The wool is subjected to the action of petroleum-naphtha, which dissolves the wool fat, and then to a water bath, which removes the potash salts. While requiring more machinery and the use of dangerous materials, this process has the eminent advantage of reclaiming the wastes of the wool. By subse- quently volatilizing the petroleum-naphtha the wool fat or degras is reclaimed. The potash salts may also be reclaimed from the water. Double duty on class 1 washed wools. — Wools of class 1, as stated in the first clause of paragraph 366, when they are imported washed, i. e., washed on the sheep ^s back or on the skin, are to pay "twice the amount of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed." Just what "twice the amount of the duty" means was a subject early submitted to the courts (9 Fed. Cas., 573). The importer contended in this case that the duty should be computed on the estimated unwashed weight of the wool and the amount of the duty then doubled. The Government contended that the law meant twice the rate of duty times the number of pounds of washed wool. The Government's contention was sustained.^ The duty in the act of 1909 on unwashed wool of class 1 is 11 cents per pound. By . paragraph 366 the duty on washed wool of this class is made 22 cents per pound. Washing wool on the sheep's back (except for English wools) is becoming less and less common, and no statistics are available to show how much a fleece shrinks in the washing. Since, however, wools are sold on the basis of their clean weight, the difference in price between washed and unwashed wools on the Bos- ton market gives some indication of shrinkage in washing. The shrinkage by this test is not over 15 or 20 per cent. At least, it is certain that wools do not shrink 50 per cent in washing. The quan- tity of washed wools of class 1 imported is almost negligible, which would indicate that more clean wool can be imported for a given sum by paving 11 cents per pound on the greasy weight than 22 cents per pound on the washed weight. No double duty on washed class 2 and class 8 wools. — Washed wools of class 2 and class 3 are subject to the same duty as unwashed wools. When, in 1867, the present classification of wools was made, the then infant worsted industry used onlj the long English wools of class 2. Under the reciprocity treaty with Canada (1854-1866) this mdustry had enjoyed free raw material. In Canada and England, the only two countries producmg class 2 wools in any quantity, the custom of fleece washing wools was general. It was contended that under these conditions a double duty on class 2 wools would be equivalent to a prohibition of their importation. Since these wools were not grown m the United States, growers made no serious objec- tion and the duty was not doubled when they were imported washed. The conditions were similar regarding class 3 wools. In many sec- tions where these wools were raised washmg the wool was JSmily fixed in the customs of the people, as it still is to-day, and any effort to change the custom would, it was said, be futile. The provision regarding the washing of these wools is even m^ore hberaf than on class 2 wools. Class 3 wools may be washed after they leave the sheep s back, as is the custom in some countries, and if the process leaves at least 8 per cent of du-t m the wool, it is still subject only to the smgle duty. ^ Tnphduty on scoured wool— When wool of any class is imported scoured (i. e., scoured as defined by the law), it is subject to a duty m ree times the d uty on greasy wool of the same classification. This leK^wr1^Mm?r'5n^l?^*- ^' ^'^- , ^^^ °^ ^"^ ^ "^"^^ "°<*«'" ^^^ ^^ o^ 1867 were: Valued at 32 cents or vSS^atl ^ pound+n per cent; valued over 32 cents per pound, 12 cents per pound+10 48 KEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. provision fixes the duty on scoured wool of class 1 at 33 cents per pound: on scoured wool of class 2 at 36 cente per pound; and on scoured wool of class 3 at 12 or 21 centsper pound. In order to havTthe triple duty on a parity with the single duty on greasy. wool aU wook should BhLk in scouring 66i per cent The great majority of f^S wools, however, shrink less than 66§ per cent Sixty-six ^d tw^thirds per cent is very near the maximum shrinkage, while wools and hairs shrink all the way down to 10 or 15 per cent. Faragraph 368.— SOBTING CLAUSE. The dntv nDon wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, Angora goat alpaca, and other Hte animSs^ eSas one and clis two, which shall be imported in any o her than ^In^^f^'dftion^r which haa been «^rted or iucrea^ed in value by the rejection of ^vS of A^ Si^lT^e. shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise ^Lf^-PrmlM rLt skirted wools aa imported in eighteen hundred and ninety ^^nrior tihereto arehereby excepted. The'^duty upon wool of the Bheep or hair of Se cSXora ^t, alpaca a^nd other like animate of any c la^ I^,l'\f;hich Saneed in itechaiScter or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or wmcn B^ie reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, shall ^^ce the duty to whict it would be otherwise subject. When the du y assessed noorany wool eqmOs three times or more that which would be assessed i{^^'d ^o"] wK^rred^un^a«hed, the duty shall not be ttidl'^hr^t invoiced or enS sorted If any bale or package of wool or hair specified m this act invoiced or enierea Molany Weired class" or c&imed by the importer to be f "'f "f as of any s^ed cLs, Bhalfcontain any wool or hair subject to a higher rate of f ^^^^Sf %^^^ sorts requb-ed bv the yams on which the mill is Avorking. ihis process, which is prelimmaiT to manufacturing, is made necessary by the varVmg quality of wool on different parts of tlie sheep s body. The finer sorts, such as those on the shoulder and back of the sheep, are used in making finer yams than are made from the tlownrignt, ^%uhU^Sf^ '^^ t/^ofe.-When wools are sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of ^i^^ .^^\gf *H.f^??^,^^,^^^'^^^^ which have been increased in value are subject to , t^vlce the duty to which they would be * ' otherwise subject.'^ It ^W^^^^^^^^J^^^^^^^ note two tliihgs: First, that sorts of wool less valuable than.the ^; ,^^^ fleeces from which they are removed are not subject to the double duty; and, secondly, that the duty is not twice the duty on greasy Toll but'twice the duty to which it would be ^thei^se subie^^^^ Under this clause the rato of duty on classes 1 and 2 wools which are both scoured and sorted would be 66 and 72 cents per pound, BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULi^^Stic«I Llllii«t«lftr Hall the duty assessed upon any wool equals three times or'Tnoi^ vixav which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, the duty shall not be doubled on account of the wool being sorted."' In spito of this proviso, the double duty on sorted wools virtually acts to prevent the importation of sorted wool. The double duty on sorted wool was never intended to protect the process of sorting, which is comparatively inexpensive. Ijbs pur- pose was to make effective the rates of duty on wool and to prevent the importation of only the choice parts of the fleeces. In operation It acts to exclude from the United States all sorted wool oflTered for sale abroad, and this affects in particular pulled wool, which is com- monly sorted when pulled. SJartincf cZaj^^.— Skirtmg is a practice, most common in Australia, of removing from the edges of whole fleeces the stained or inferior locks, such as grow on the belly, legs, and neck of the sheep. Under the law of 1883 the Treasury Department had held that skirted wools were not sorted and therefore not subject to double duty. In the revision of 1890 the growers were emphatic in then- demand that sku-ted wools be reguu-ed to pay the double duty, but the manufac- turers were successful in then- cont^ention that skirted wools are not sorted wools. The result of the contest was the proviso in the sort- ing clause of the law of 1890, 'Hhat sku-tcd wools as now imported are hereby excepted.'' Skirting now is the same process that it was m 1890, but in order to prevent the abuse of the proviso, only those wools from countries where skirting was practiced in 1890 are excepted from the sorting paragraph. The proviso in the present law, therefore, reads: lliat sku-ted wools as imported in 1890 and prior thereto are hereby excepted." In 1891 it was stated : ' ' That the following wools besides Austrahan wools were imported skkted prior to the passacre of the act of October 1, 1890, viz: Cape of Good Hope wool; French wool; German wool; Russian wool; Spanish wool; Saxony wool:' bilesia wool; Montevideo wool; Buenos Au-es wool; Damascus wool- bmyrna wool; Aleppo wool; Angora wool; Salonica wool; Alpaca! Adnanople Egyptian Turkey, and Russian Donskoi combing wools tHat i^nghsh and Irish wools were sold skirted or unskkted, at the option of the purchaser, and that Syrian wools were sometimes im- ported skirted." (T. D. 11429.) Classing of fleeces.— Wool classing is the classification of whole fleeces accordmg to quaHty. Due to greater uniformity of the fiber in merino fleeces than other fleeces, skirtmg is all that is sometimes nec- essarv to prepare some of them for the manufacturing process. They are classed according to quaUty, which is designated by the count of yarn to wluch the wool will spin. They are classed as 50's fleeces. ^ s fleeces, 60 s fleeces, etc.— the higher the count the finer the wool, i^iassing of fleeces is not sortmg under the sorting clause. Nor is the cia&sitication of fleeces by color where the custom has long existed nem to be a change of condition for the purpose of evadmg the duty. Lhmiging condition or character o/ wooZs.—Paragraph 368 provides also that wools of^'any class wliich shall be changed in its character rL?''''!^ ''''' ^?'' *i'^ Purpose of evading the duty, or wliich shaU be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign sub- stance, shaU be twice the duty to wliich it would be otherwise subject." 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 i ^ so BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. i If WhDe this provision appUes to -«rool of any class, it npnUes partic- ularlv to wook of class 3. In the present law Uiese wools, if valuwl at 12 Sniper pound or less, tlae duty shall be 4 <>e«te per pound; a valued at more than 12 cents, the duty shaU be 7 centa per pound Undir this provision there is a temptation ^ diange the ctaract.^^ of the wools by sorting, or th^«<>'J'l>«^o°„**y *J^« i^^he I ^o clLs^ foreio9.62l 70,7ti9,197 112.0(59.780 58,233/939 119.512,199 3,7t)O,096 It), 258.052 25.850,869 13,885,«4 $2.12<».lt97 8.419,509 12,289.701 15.379,723 Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). (••) 56.56 51.79 47.54 45.95 I Wool free of doty under the Wilson bill. /mpwte of class 1 wool by countries.— The foimtries from wliich the United States imports class 1 wools and their comparative impor- tance is shown in Table 12. It should be noted that the total im- ports in this table are not identical with those in Table 11. The dif- ference is due to the fact that in ''Commerce and Navigation of the United States" the imports by countries include merchanihse m warehouses as well as that entered for consumption. Table 12.— Imports of raw wool, class 1, by counfrm, enterefjffor immediate consumption and for warehmise itiio the United States. lExpwBsed ill tliouaands of pounds and thousands of dollars.) IfM Country or origin. ■"WOOLS OP CLASS 1. Belgium France Germany United Kingdom. Canada Mexico Ar^jcutiua Clllli!.. rriiguiiy Auslrdlasia British Africa Other countries... Quan- tity. 6, 553 3S3 50. 404 1,147 95 u, 129 1,599 8,078 20.253 8,102 596 Value. 1900 1905 1910 Qaanp tity. $1,244 1,677 CO 9, 810 214 4 871 124 ms 3. 559 8tiO 36 291 109 94 13, 182 237 iii'.lia 1,270 211 11,008 429 391 Value. '149 14 IS 2,018 26 1^985 140 51 2,934 90 87 Quan- tity. 6,r.26 708 320 36,221 523 Vahie. Quan- tity. II, 1S8 1(>2 100 8,350 127 32, 737 (j, T.vl 1,156 174 5. 155 1,110 26,60 6,618 36 « 744 147 2, 2iO 371 826 35,647 303 61 23,587 230 7.153 40,891 135 130 Wil'.i. 1911 Quan- tity. Value. 1488 85 194 8,630 59 11 5, 4t3 37 1.779 10.446 23 17 42 14,628 143 0) 13, 432 €0 573 11, 127 94 6 19 27 2.563 11 124 2,844 17 1 1 IncludtHl ii other countries. As Table 12 shows, the cliief countries exporting wool to the Umted States are Australasia, Argentina, and the United Kingdom the United Kingdom produces no class 1 wool, and all the exports oi these wools from that countrv are reexports of imported wool.^ Australa- sian wools (except a small amount of long wool produced in New Zea- land) are class 1 wools and their importation into the Umted btates is of increasing importance. Within recent years the direct importa- tion of wool from South Africa has been negligible. Wool imported from Belgium is reexported South American wool. » See Table 4 on p. 36. Tart of tiie reexports to tue I mud .^ tatcs shown on p. 36 are class 3 wools. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 53 Production of class 1 wooZs.— Production figures are not ffiven bv classes but knowing the kind of wool grown m the important coun- tries of the world the main sources of class 1 wools can be mven AU wools grown in AustraMa belong to this class. In 1909 she pro^ duced 718,000,000 pounds of wool. Almost all the wools of NewZea- lands are crossbreds, and hence classed as class 1 wools. In 1909 she produced 223,900,000 pounds of wool. Argentina produces wool of aJl classes, but a large per cent of her wools belong to class 1 In 2m onn J?n^ """^^^ (excjusive of a small amount consumed at home) 401,200,000 pounds. South African wools are also class 1 wools In 1909 she produced 130,900,000 pounds. The production of wool i^i;;^^^^' mostly class 1 (exclusive of a small local consumption) in irrJon nnn^^'^^^'^^f P^V?^^* ^^? <^ontinent of Europe produced 420,000,000 pounds of wool in 1 909 ; but due to the fact that ft is prac- tically all consumed where raised it is seldom found in the markets of the world. The great majority of wools produced in the United toe fL n)r^ ^"^ t^^. ^' ,1" 1^09 o^r prod\iction was reported at 328,100,000 pounds of wool. ^ WOOLS AND HAIRS OF CLASS 2. Rates ofduty.—F&T&m-a^h 369 fixes the duty on class 2 wools at 12 cents per greasy pound. As explained on page 47, the duty is not doubled on these wook when they are washed, but they bear a triple duty when scoured. They are also affected by the provision relating to wools on the skin. Stated m full the duties on class 2 wools and hau^ are I Washed and unwashed wool of class 2: ^SnnS^' On the skin ^''°^- Not on the skin jj Scoured wool ] J^ Camel's hair of class 2: " ^ Washed and unwashed Scoured 'IV...... i^ Hair of the Angora goat, alpaca, and other like animals: VV ashed and unwashed ,^ Scoured ' if oo Irnports of class 2 wools for consumption-.— The imports of class 2 woo s and hairs into the United States for the fiscal year ending June ^0, 1911, with revenue derived and the computed ad valoreni rates are shown in Table 13. Table 13.— Imports of wool and hair of class 2 into the United States for the fiscal vear ending June 30, 1911. ' ^ Rates of duty. Wool: Washed and unwashed— On the skin Not on the. skin Scoured Camel's hair: , Washed and unwashed Hair of the Angon goat, alpaca, and other like animals: W^hed and unwashed . . Sorted Quantities. CtrU9 per Ih. 11 12 36 12 12 24 Total class 2. Piunds. 96,490 8,766,205.50 40 26,694 2,725,024.25 Values. Revenue derived. Ad valorem mte (computed). $20,307.00 2,138,091.82 12.00 7,692.00 986.615.00 994.00 11,615,953.75 S10,613.88 1,051,944.66 14.40 3,203.28 327,002.92 360.00 3,153,711.82 1,393,139.14 52.27 49.20 120 41.64 33.14 36.22 44.17 54 BEPOET OP TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDXTLE K. Tn Table 13 it will be noticed that unwashed and washed wools are reported together because the duty on both m the same It may b^^sumed, however, that, since the custom of fleece washmg pre- JtibSThe countries producmg these wools «id smce the cleaner the W The less the duty per clean pound, the wools "nported are washed The computed ad valorem rate on the largest part of the Srtation was 49.20 per cent. The smaU quantity of scoured 3 h^Dorted paid a computed rate of dutv of 120 per cent. The TompZl ad vriorem rateV mohair and 4aca (33^4 per cent) u comoaratively low because these hairs are light shrmking. tL hnports of class 2 wools for several representative yeai-s are shown m Table 14. T^BLE U.^Imports of unwashed, '™«'f'' .-•^^S'f""''' "-^ ''"** ' "'""'' ^°' ""' mmphontnto the United btates. Fiscal year ending June 30— Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). POUTidS. 10,608.208 8,464,325 19,296,833 24,800,262 8,862,736 $2,274,441 1,681,605 4,493,869 6,263,933 2,158,411 C) 1896 ■ ■■ 1900 ims 1910 1911 ■ $1,009,536 2,311,867 2,976.279 1,062,573 60.03 51.44 47.51 49.23 » Wool free of dut y under the Wilson biU. ImpoHs of class 2 wool lij counfnVs. --The imports of class 2 wools and hairs, % countries, are shown m Table 15. Table 15 -ImmrlB of raw wool and hair of class 2, hy 'ounlj'^mjf'^ >'' ^'^'^^^^ TABLE 10. ^'"^^^ J^p^ -^ ^^^pr warehouse into the United States. [Expressed in thousands of pounds and thousands of dollars.] ^^ 1896 1900 Country of origin. WOOLS OF CLASS 2. Turkish Empire United Kingdom Canada Argentina Australasia Peru other countries Quan- tity. 1,172 6,506 3,817 133 26 829 Value. $454 1,,W 796 464 28 10 161 Quan- tity. 748 9,450 2,171 Value. $261 1,887 425 1905 1910 1911 Quan- tity. 26 236 54 2,236 20,075 1,530 551 Value. Quan- yjjiue. tity. 1,082 1,078 1624 4,846 350 112 321 268 88 26,908 1.008 1,386 $21 6,746 425 287 Quan- tity. Value. 1,118 505 342 109 1,025 7,153 1,072 1,954 96 1,116 41 $392 1,866 261 355 21 375 11 The unports from the Turkish Empire m Table 15 are mohair shipped dWt to the United States. The United Kmgdom reex- ported to the United States 432,682 pounds of mohair ^ 1909 and R9Q 001 nounds in 1910. Tliis presumably is both Cape and Turkish mohair T 1909 the United Kingdom reexported to the United Ses 109 676 pounds of alpaca and^ 1910, 282,232 pounds. Except for rhesTre^xp^o,?^, which%pear i^ Table 15 as irnporj^s from tte United Kmgdom, the imports tom the U«>tedKmgdorn are wools produced by her own sheep. Canada and Argentma are the only REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 55 other countries of any importance in the production of class 2 wools. The imports from them rank next to the United Kingdom in importance. Tlie imports from Peru are alpaca. Production of class 2 wools.— Th^ United Kingdom is the greatest producer of class 2 wools. For the last 10 years the British clip has been somewhere between 130,000,000 and 143,000,000 pounds annu- ally. Canada produces about 12,000,000 pounds of wool annually, the great percentage of which is class 2 wool. Class 2 cameVs hair. — ^AU camel's hair except Kussian is dutiable at 12 cents per pound when imported washed or unwashed, and at 36 cents per pound when imported scoured. The chief country from which we receive this hair is China. The imports of camel's hair of class 2 for representative years is shown in Table 16. Table \^.— Imports ofcameVs hair of class 2, entered for consumption into the United States. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896 Pownds. 578,297 126,762 89,903 112 26,694 $101,238 21,372 24,949 88 7,692 C) 71.17 43.24 45.61 41.64 1900 1908 $15,211.44 10,788.36 40.14 3,203.28 1910 1911 Camel's hair free of duty under the Wilson bill. MoJiair, alpaca, etc, — Mohair, as has been said, is produced outside of the United States, in the Turkish Empire and South Africa, and alpaca in Peru. The rate of duty on these and hke hau^ is 12 cents per pound if they are washed or unwashed ; 36 cents per pound if they are scoured. The imports into the United States for representative years is shown in Table 17. Table 17. -Imports of hair of angora goats, alpaca, and other like animal hairs entered for consumption into the United States. w Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896 Pounds. 2,016,105 1,329,892 2,625,575 1.967,006 2,726,524 $782,828 391,306 749,764 682.033 987,609 (0 40.77 42. oa 34.62 33.14 1900 $159,550 315,069 236,094 327,363 1905 1910 1911 1 Hair free under tlie Wilson bill. Production ofmoliair. — There are no rehable statistics on the pro- duction of mohair in Turkey. Her supply, however, is practically all used by the United Kingdom, France, and the United States. In 1909 the United Kingdom imported from Turkey 10,803,206 pounds of mohair. France imported 460,761 pounds of mohair from Turkey. ■OM 5§ EEFOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The exports of mohair from South Africa m 1909 whicli may be con- sidere/as the production, was 43,318,302 pounds. The production of mohair in the Umted States accordmg to the census of 1910 is not yet available. The production in 1900 is shown m Table 18. Table 18. -Production and value of mohdr atid goat hair in 1809, hy geograjMe divisions. C eograpl ; ie d i v isiuns. The United States. North Atlantic. South Atlantic. North Central.. South Central.. Western Famis report- ing. Fleeces shorn. 4]rliH5J^ 43 52 6B5 838 2,463 I Weight of I fleeces in 'pounds (un- washed). 454,932 1,16.1 676 21,234 195,002 235,867 901,328 Value. 2,852 1,718 .58,095 281,158 617,505 1267,804 1,008 501 17,227 79,185 169,943 In 1909 wool manufactures in the United States consumed 2,453,984 pounds of domestic mohair, valued at $624,579. Tins is a good mdex to the present annual production of 7>^^JJ,^>J^^^Yt^^^;^.^ ^f World commerce in m^hmr, alpaca, etc.— The unports and ^^ports^ mohair, alpaca, and like hair for leadm- forei^i f >"?t™^^^ in Table 19. The large imports into tlie United Kingdom indicate ihe supreme place which the Bradford district holds m the production of mohair dress goods. Tabi e 19 -Imports and exports oj mohair, alpaca, and me animal hairs for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. Countries. XlRAf 1910 Imports. Exports. United States Uniteti Kingdom Germany France Austria-Hungary British South Africa.. Rmsia Peni Quantity. Founds. 1,306,073 35.6ll,.'i:» 31,964,960 997,8Cj2 950,403 Value. Quantity. $459,653 8,782.188 2 509.082 327,569 178,618 Value. Pound*. Vf ,353,920. 2 3.3,56,5a3 905,429 148.149 43,318.302 1,687,732 5,808,784 Imports. Quantity. Value. 1 $400,566 2 498, 134 166,4.57 12,277 4,W3,166 178,192 1,442.460 Pounds. 1,967,006 35.828.426 2 2,093,709 1.4ft3,228 1,243,615 2,79{< $682,033 8.945,:«)3 8587,622 437,338 191,251 141 Exports. Quantity. Value. Pounds. 11.623,884 2 3,494,511 980,165 58,642 39,279,R41 1 $525,192 1254,422 171.577 4,860 4,395,248 ■■ 1 Reexports, 2 Includes camels hair. Paragraph 370.-DXrTIES ON CLASS 3 WOOLS. Oti wonk of the third elass and on cameVB hair of the third class the value wliereof ehTl? blTwelx4 ceZ 0^^ per pound, the duty ehall be four cent^ per pound On t^\?ouLthirdrcla.« ^-^^.^r^^^^^^ '^''' exceed twelve centa per pound, the duty shall bo seven cents per pound. RaUs of du^i/.-Paragraph 370 fixes the duty on aU imported wod^ produce Jby native or unimproved sheep and on Russian camel s hair In 1867 class 3 wools, valued at 12 cents per pound or less paid 3 cents per pound duty, and valued over 12 cents per pound 6 cents pefpornd: The^^ rates were changed in 1883 to 2i cents and 5 cents i\ EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDXILE K. 57 per pound. In 1890 the dividing line was made 13 cents. Wools valued at 13 cents and below paid a duty of 32 per cent; those valued above, 50 per cent. In 1897 the rates of the- present law were fixed, which are the highest ever levied on wool of class 3. The present rates on these wools and Russian camel's hair, stated in the light of paragraph 366 and 371, are as follows: Class S wools. , Valued 12 cents or less per pound: Cents Washed and unwashed— P«r ix>und. On the skin 3 Not on the skin 4 Scoured wool 12 Camel's hair, Russian — Washed and unwashed 4 Scoured 12 Valued over 12 cents per pound : Washed and unwashed wool — On the skin. 6 Not on the skin 7 Scoured wool 21 Camel's hair, Russian — Washed and unwashed i 7 Scoured 21 Imports of class 3 wools for consumption. — The imports of class 3 wool and camel's hair into the United States for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911, are shown in Table 20. Table 20. — Imports ofivool and cameVs hair of class 3 into the United States for the fiscal year ending June SO, 1911. Rates of duty (per pound). Quantities. Values. Revenue deri ed. Ad valo rem rate (com- puted). Value 12 cents or less per pound: Wool- Washed and unwashed— On the skin Cents. 3 4 4 6 7 21 7 Pounds. 1,326,260 64,790,565 500,699 33 20,403,801 110 2,909,478 $131,737.00 7,094,605.00 66,058.00 6.00 4,789,641.00 22.00 450,413.22 $39,787.80 2,691,622.60 22,427.90 1 98 1,852,466.09 23.10 203,663.40 30.20 Not on the skin 3&53 Camel's hair, Russian- Washed and im washed Value exceeding 12 cents per pound: Wool- Washed and unwashed — On the skin 33.65 33.00 Not on the skin 38.68 Scoured 105.00 Camel's hair, Russian — Washed and unwashed 45.22 Total, class 3 96,050,946 12,533,082.22 4,709,992.99 37.58 Table 20 shows that 'the largest per cent of class 3 wools is purchased abroad for 12 cents or less per pound. These wools are probably unwashed, while those valued over 12 cents per pound are probably washed. Donskoi and East Indian wools are thoroughly washed before shipment, and are therefore represented in the wools imported valued over 12 cents per pound. The computed ad valorem rate on wool not on the skin, valued at 12 cepts or less per pound, in 1911 was 36.53 per cent; valued over 12 cents per pound, 38.68 per cent. Here, again, the duty on scoured wool acts to prevent SB BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. importation. The smaU amount that was imported paid a duty of ^^tKif^^^^^ of w'^oof of class 3 valued at 12 cents or less per pound fof representative years are shown in Table 21. Table 2l.-Imports of wool of chm 3 valued aiU cents c^ leu per pound entered for ^ ^ consumption into the hmted iitates. Quantity. Fiscal year ending Jane 30— 1900 1905 1910 1911 Pounds. 94,592,255 77,058,176 84.692,275 Gti,116,825 Value. 18,563,206 7,759.300 9, 309, 323 7,226,342 Rereniie derived. $3,774,492 3,070,966 3,373,779 2,631,410 Ad valo rem rata of duty (com- puted). 44.08 39.58 36.24 36.41 The imports of wool of class 3 valued over 12 cents per pound for representative years are shown in Table 22. Table 22.-Imporf. of toool of class S ^^^Y^fJ^rfJ^/^ ^^ ^ ^""^ ^"'^^ for consumptmfi into the Umtea ii tales. Quantity. Fiscal year ending June 30— imo • 1905 1910 1911 • Pounds. 3,058,513 33,028,110 30,408,592 26,463,944 Value. $478,808 6,887,706 6,251,659 4,789,669 Revenue derived. $214,072 2,311,968 2.128,599 1,852,490 Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). 44.71 39.27 40.53 38.68 ImpoHs of class 3 wools, hy countries. —The imports of class 3 wools and cameFs hair into the United States, by countries, are shown m Table 23. Table 2^.-Imports of raw uool of class 3 and Russian cameVs \^^.%f2^^^^^ entered for immediate consumption and for warehouse into the United states. [Expressed in tkoasands of pounds and tliouflands of dollars.l 1890 Quan- tity. Value. "WOOLS Of CLASS 3. Austria-Hungary.. . . Belgium.. France Germany Kussian Empire Turkish Empire (in- cluding Egypt).... United Kingdom — Argentina Cluna British India Other countries 294 1,290 6,181 1,558 y, if4X 10, 137 27,998 13,3;J5 24,5;i7 43 2,607 1900 1905 Quan- tity. Value. $30 147 668 1,135 984 3.272 1,283 1,600 3 212 1 f OWO wo 3,784 2, 188 17,432 8,221 29,442 9,467 30,710 690 2,303 $134 28 375 233 1,677 835 Of lo«J 691 2,157 66 237 Quan- tity. Value. 1,287 206 4,017 1,051 28,050 16,867 20,398 6,204 27,644 2,886 4,065 $167 44 548 164 3,482 2,215 3,610 756 3,129 359 566 1910 ^TJ" I Value. 853 47 3, 572 2.075 19,761 11,914 28,420 3.675 38,062 6.396 5,W 1911 Quan- tity. Value. $111 7 533 267 2,783 1,777 4,071 412 4,463 826 809 940 7 2,690 2,387 15,404 5.741 21,026 3,781 28,089 2,043 2,977 $123 1 364 280 2.087 744 3,101 456 3,070 244 424 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 59 Table 23 shows that approximately one-third of the class 3 wools imported into the Uiiitecl States are from China. The large imports from the United Eoiigdora represent, first, some Scottish Blacldace wool grown in the Highlands of Scotland, and, secondly, class 3 wools, especially East Indian, sold on the Liverpool auctions and then reexported. Tne wools from Kussia are chiefly Donskoi, and those from tlie Turkish Empire the various wools produced in and near Turkey and enumerated under paragraph 36^. Argentma appears in diminishing importance as a producer of class 3 wools, due to the crossmg of her native sheep with improved stock. Production of class 3 wools, — ^Any statistics on the production of class 3 wools are necessarily approximations. The production of wool in the whole Russian Empire is estimated at 238,800,000 pounds; in the Ottoman Empire at 137,100,000 pounds; in China at 49,000,000 pounds; in Persia at 12,100,000 pounds: and m Iceland at 1,000,000 pounds. , Sheep are found in practically everv country in the world (see Table 184), and the countries backward in improved pastoral methods still produce some class 3 wool, but the tendency m many cases is to unprove these flocks with Merino or English blood, so that the production of class 3 wools may be expected to decline. Russian caraeVs hair, — Russian camel's nair pays a duty of 4 cents per pound if valued at 12 cents or less per pound, 7 cents per pound if valued over 12 cents per pound, and 12 or 21 cents per pound if scoured. The total imports of Russian camel's hak into the United States for representative years is shown in Table 24. Table 24. — Imports of Russian cameVs hair entered for consumption into the Unitsd States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896 1900 I9a5 1910 1911 Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Pounds. 1,249,520 1,319,576 2,509.591 2,6f.9,611 3, 470, 177 $114,003 139, 137 295,758 329.388 517,071 $52, 783 100,607 124,237 228,091 Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). (') 37.94 34.02 37.72 43.73 1 Gamers hair free of duty under the Wilson bill. WorM^s commerce in cameVs hair. — The imports and exports of camel's hair of all kinds for leading countries which report it are shown in Table 25. The exports of the United Kingdom are reex- gorts. Of the total amount which she reexported in 1909 the United tates received 2,996,370 pounds, and in 1910, 2,057,588 pounds. 60 KEFOBT OF TAMFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table '2r>. —Imports and exports of camel's hair for leading conntnes in 1909 and 1910. 11K9 Coontrka. Impdrtii Exports. .«'. Fmtnis. tJnlted Stetes 14, 140, 593 United Kingdom. . . [s, 619, 590 B'Uasia ! China ■ $523,045 l,oo9) 83o Quantity. Valtie. Pounds. 7,256,614 3,037,370 1 $4(45.130 701.414 p«391,W7 1910 Imports, Qiiantlty. Ponndn. •2,«9,722 8,3<>l,115 Value. $329. 476 1.539,752 Exports. Quantity. Pounds. i2'.itii]536" Value. J$;i37,910 I 1 Reexport. , , ,„, x , «.^.. 2 Keported as — Quantity. Pound*. im I 1.624,017 m6 - Ml^''B 1910 6,517, hio mi: 4.035,068 Value. 1172,461 665,060 851,2:i3 754,210 Revenue derived. Ad valorem rateof dutr (computed;. $91,608 365,877 455,274 311,637 53.12 55.01 53.48 41.33 Table 26 includes all wool over one-quarter of an inch in length imported on the skin. It therefore includes a small amount of wool which was not pulled in this country, but which remamed on the skins tlirough the tamiing process. These tanned wool skms are used in makmg coats, robes, etc. Very recently it has been decided to admit free of duty all wool skins on which the wool is 1 mch or less in length. Hereafter these skins will be classified m the sta- tistics as *^fur skins." The imports of wool on the skm for 1910 show 4,038,113 pounds of class 1 wool. 88,298 pounds of class 2 wool, and 1,391,181 pounds of class 3 wool valued at 12 cents or less per poimd and 244 pounds of class 3 wool valued over 12 cents per pound. The imports in 1911 show 2,612,285 pounds of class 1 wool, 96,490 pounds of class 2 wool, and 1,326,260 pounds of class 3 wool valued at 12 cents or less per pound and 33 pounds of class 3 wool valued over 12 cents per pound. Production of rniTkd wools in the United States.— In 1904 there were 34 wool-pulling establishments w4th a capital of $2,534,029 reported to the United States Census. Tlie estmiated production of these establishments was 16,707,943 pounds of pulled wool. To this w^as added 9,201,196 pounds pulled under contract by tannmg and slaughtering establishments and 16,377,333 pounds reported as a BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDULE K. 63 by-product of slaughtering and meat-packing establishments. The total wool pulled in the United States in 1904, then, was 42,286,472 pounds. An independent estimate by the Bulletin of Wool Manu- facturers gave the production at 42,000,000 pounds, which goes far to confirm both figures. The bulletin estimates the production of pulled wool in the United States in 1910 at 40,000,000 pounds. SUMMARY OF RAW WOOL STATISTICS. Imports of all wools and hairs. — The total imports of all classes of raw wool and hair in all conditions into the United States for repre- sentative years are presented in Table 27. Table 27.- ■Total imports of wool and hair of all classes entered for conmLmpiion into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896 1900 1805 1910 1911 Quantity. Ponies. 222. 647. 543 128,250,945 211,287,482 256,606,637 165,900,839 Value. $32,144,454 15,030,220 35,444,449 47,687.293 29,572,259 Revenue derived. 87,3.52,642 16,529,987 21.128,729 12,482,855 Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). 0) 48.90 46.64 44.31 42.21 1 Wool free of duty under the Wilson bill. Table 27 shows a marked falling off in the imports of wool in 1911 — a condition generally ascribed in the trade to lack of confidence and fear of adverse le^slation. The computed ad valorem rates shown in the table, winch ranged according to prices abroad from 42 to 48 per cent, are typical under the present law. If the duty on scoured wool of 33 and 36 cents per pound were effective, i. e., if all greasy wools imported shrunk on scouring 66 § per cent, the com- puted ad valorem rate would be much higher. But due to the fact that the fighter shrinkage a wool has the less the duty per clean pound, the manufacturers purchase abroad the light-shrinking wools, and this condition lessens the protection which m theory the wool- grower is supposed to get. Exports of raw wool. — In marked contrast to the imports of raw wool are the exports of raw wool from the United States which are presented for representative years in Table 28 : Table 28. — Exports of raw wool of domestic production j by countries, from the United States. Country of destination. 1806 1900 1905 1910 Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Belgium Pounds. 412,797 288,742 209,397 250 l,a59,797 2,360,470 2,605,150 9,378 153,144 47,968 28,516 16 174,445 311,992 238,316 1,653 Pounds. 75,894 $18,604 Pownds. Pounds. France "Germany 79,676 J!9,079 JNetiierlands 62,503 1,631,167 267,245 163,500 23,659 289,909 40,427 14,640 United Kingdom Dominion of Canada. . . Mexico 43,260 , 1,008 5,800 186 3 32,623 14,897 S8,656 1,421 Other coim tries •> V04 BEPORT OF T-IRIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. In 1896 the exports of raw wool were comparatively largo because there was Mttlo or no demand in the United States for it and the growers were forced to seek a mai'ket abroad. In recent years the exports have been negligible. None are reported for 1911. Froduction of wool in the United States, 1890-1910, — The production of raw wool, washed and unwashed, in the United States for each year during the hist two decades by main divisions of the country IS presented in Table 29, on the authority of the Bulletin of Wool Manufacturers, Boston. Table 29. — Productwn of wool, washed and unwashed, in the United States^ [Expresaed in thousands of pounds.] Year. New EnRland States. Middle Atlantic &t&t«8. ■ Southern States. North Central States. Central West States. Far Western States. rulled wool. Total. 1S90.. 1891.. 1892.. 1893.. 1894.. 189.'>. . 1896.. 1897.. 1898.. 1899.. 1900.. 1901.. 1902.. 1903.. 1904.. 1905.. 1906.. 1907.. 1008.. 1909.. 1910. . 7,640 7,531 8,130 0,420 6,294 4,543 3.961 3,384 3,451 3,559 3,525 3,350 3,108 3,090 2,820 2,880 3,193 3,187 3,304 3,2P0 16,225 15,861 16.810 20,214 18,140 13. 128 10.835 9,781 10.043 10,320 10,517 11.214 12,219 9,999 9,849 9,865 10,165 11,012 11,777 11,857 12,210 51.015 61,962 56,970 57,974 48,545 42,830 37,908 34,078 31.207 28.930 27,332 28.565 24,508 22,291 22,078 22,318 22.ft38 21,911 22.512 23,734 23,608 60,297 i51,312 66,023 60,653 53,630 45,851 35.916 31,826 32,956 35.653 37.7M 30,3/8 41,187 55,020 32,880 32,568 34,988 37,382 37,177 42, 400 45,200 18,617 16,780 21,447 25.140 23,340 19,861 18,440 10,667 18,412 18,618 19.608 21,212 21,008 20,890 20.224 19,722 19,902 10 MO 23.005 22,446 23,245 124.981 118.955 127,638 132, 236 129,3.^3 128,054 125,416 123,446 133.850 141,464 101,164 101.578 171,984 154,142 161,062 166, 195 166.252 102,8-17 172. 4S0 183.370 173,780 40,000 41,000 46.000 47,000 47,000 40,000 40,000 40,000 36,801 33,755 28,664 37,000 42,000 42.00f) 42,000 42,000 42,000 42,000 41,000 41.000 40,000 308,775 303.401 333,018 34S,r>37 325,211 294,267 272,475 259,153 206,721 272,191 288,637 302.502 316,346 287,450 291,783 295,488 298,915 298,295 311,138 328. Ill 321,363 1 rrom Bulletin of Vv'ool Manufacturers. Table 29 shows a decided decline in the production of wool in the New England, Middle Atlantic, and Southern States. In the North Central and Central Western States the production has remained sta- tionary, while in the far Western States it has increased substantially. The production of wool in the whole United States has remained stationary since 1890. In well-informed trade circles the presentations in tms report as to the number of sheep maintained and the quantity of wool produced, not only in the United States but in otlier countries, are at best regarded as merely fair approximations. It se^ms to be the judgment of those inclose touch with the domestic production that the output of w^ool in the United States has been unitormly understated, the tes- timony of traffic agents of railways being adduced to show that in some eases at least the estimated clips for given States have been well below the actual shipments for a given period. Wool produced in the United States, hy States, i^iO.— Table 30 pre- sents the production of wool in the United States, by States, for 1910. It is here estimated on the authority of the Bulletin of Wool Manu- facturers that the average greasy w^eiglit of the fleeces shorn in the United States in 1910 was 6.7 pounds; that all wools produced m the United States shrink on an average of CO per cent; and that the average price of wool per scoured pound on October 1, 1910, ,was 51 eat Hall BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE fc^^Ultlllla I Jft6rt|.g||- cents. The greasy weight of the wool produced, 281,362,750 pounds (exclusive of pulled wool), was estimated to be equal to 112,605,813 pounds of scoured wool valued at $57,429,838. Table 30 also shows the relative importance of the different States in the production of wool. Table 30. — Wool product of the United States, 1910. (From Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, December, 1910.] Maine , New Hampsbire Vermont Massachusetts Rhode Island Connecticut New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Delaware Maryland West Virginia Kentucky Ohio Michigan Indiana Illinois Wisconsin Minnesota Iowa Missouri Virginia North Carolina. South Carolina Georgia Florida Alabama Mississippi Louisiana Arkansas Tennessee Kansas Nebraska South Dakota North Dakota Montana Wyoming Idaho Washington Oregon California Nevada Utah Colorado Arizona New Mexico Texas Oklahoma and Indian Territory Total. Pulled wool . Total product,1910 Number of sheep of shearing age. Apr. 1, 1910. 210,000 70,000 180,000 35,000 7,500 35,000 825,000 50.000 1,050,000 7.000 130.000 600.000 800,000 2.600,000 1.700,000 900,000 700,000 900,000 375,000 800,000 860.000 365,000 204,000 50,000 225,000 115,000 160,000 150,000 155,000 200,000 291,000 175,000 250,000 625,000 270,000 4,800,000 4.(JoO,000 2, 600, 000 450,000 1, 750, 000 1,900,000 850,000 2. 100, 000 1,400,000 825,000 3,200.000 1,325,000 80,000 41,999,500 Average weight of fleece, 1910. Pounds. 6 6 6.5 6.2 5.3 5.25 6 5.5 6 5.5 5.2 5.75 4.75 6.5 6.75 6.5 7 6.75 6.8 6.75 7 4.5 3.75 3.75 3 3. 3. 4 3.7 4 4.25 7.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 7 7.75 7.3 9 8.25 7 7 6.75 6.5 6 6 6.75 6.5 ,25 .5 G.7 Wool washed and unwashed, 1910. Pounds. 1,260,000 420,000 1,170,000 217,000 39, 750 183,750 4,950,000 275,000 6,300,000 38,500 676,000 3,450,000 3,800,000 16,900,000 11, 475, 000 5,850.000 4,900,000 6,075.000 2,550,000 5,400,000 6,020,000 1,642,500 765,000 187,500 675,000 373,750 500,000 600,000 573,500 800,000 1,236,750 1,312,500 1,625,000 4,062,500 1,755,000 33,000,000 36,037,500 18.980,000 4.050,000 14,437.500 13,300.000 5,950,000 14, 175, 000 9,100,000 4. 950. 000 19, 200, 000 8, 943, 750 520,000 281,362,750 40,000.000 321,362,750 Per cent of shrink- age, 1910. 40 50 51 42 42 42 48 47 48 45 43 49 38 51 50 45 60 47 48 48 47 37 42 42 4d 40 42 41 40 40 64 60 60 60 64 68 65 69 68 66 68 66 65 65 65 67 67 Wool scoiu-ed, 1910. Pounds. 756,000 210. 60 27 573 125 23 106 2,574 145 3,276 21 385 1, 759 2,356 8,281 5, 737 3,217 2,450 3,219 1,326 2,808 3,190 1,034 443 108 405 224 336 348 3.38 480 742 472 650 1,625 702 12,096 11,532 6,643 1,255 4,620 4,522 1,904 4,819 3,185 1,732 6,720 2,951 171 112,605 29,200 000 300 860 055 575 000 750 000 175 320 500 000 000 500 500 000 750 000 000 600 775 700 750 000 250 000 000 365 000 050 500 000 000 000 000 000 000 500 000 000 000 500 000 500 000 438 600 813 000 141,805,813 Average value per scoured pound, Oct. 1, 1910.1 Cents. 45 49 49 45 45 45 50 46 55 46 45 57 46 55 49 46 46 42 42 46 45 47 42 41 41 41 41 41 41 40 43 52 52 54 54 56 55 52 54 53 46 54 52 47 53 51 55 48 Total value, 1910. 51 51.75 51.12 1 22.53=average value unscoured. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, G2-2, xo\ 1 5 $340,200 102,900 280,917 56,637 10,375 47,959 1,237,000 67,045 1,801,800 9,741 173, 394 1,002,915 1,083,760 4,554,550 2, 811. 375 1,480,050 1,127,000- 1,352,295 556,920 1.291,680 1,435,770 486,344 186,354 44,588 166,050 91,943 137, 760 142,680 138.730 192,000 319.082 245, 700 338,000 877. 500 »79,080 6. 773, 760 6,342.600 3, 4,54, 360 677,970 2,448,600 2,080,120 1,028,160 2,506.140 1, 496, 950 918,225 3.427,200 1,623,291 82,368 57, 429, 838 15,010,000 72, 439, 838 66 BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Production of wool in leading countries. — The production of wool for 10 years in tlie important countries of the world producing class 1 and 2 wools is sho^n in Table 31. The figures for the United Kingdom and the Continent of Europe, from the circular of Ilelmuth Schwartze & Co., London, are for wool washed on the slieep's back The figures for Australia and New Zealand, from official publica- tions of the respective countries, include wool exported, wool con- sumed locally, and wool on the skin. The figures for Argentina and Uruguay, from the circular of Wenz & Co., Rheims, France, are exports and do not include a few million pounds used locally. South African figures are also exports from the British Colonial Abstract. Table 31. — Production of raw wool in tJie leading wool-produdnj countries of the world. [Expressed in millions of pounds.] Year. United States. United Kingdom (fleece washed). Continent "'(&' Australia. washed). New Zealand. ♦. Argentina . Uruguay. South Africa. 1900 288.6 302.5 316.3 287.4 291.8 295.5 298.9 298.3 311.1 328.1 321.4 141 138 136 133 132 131 130 131 134 142 143 dan \ Ana a 156.2 164.0 167. 4 177.6 179.4 171.7 189.5 207.8 200.5 223.9 439.6 379.0 435.6 437.4 385.1 377.4 3T9.6 357.6 392.4 401.2 327.2 88.2 89.9 89.1 108.0 89.1 85.8 80.7 98.5 111.6 127.4 124.3 30.0 76.0 89.0 77.0 75.0 77.0 88.8 97.8 104.3 130.9 121.7 1901 450 450 450 450 440 430 420 420 420 420 543.1 413.3 414.1 473. 6 522.1 577.7 690.1 642.2 718.0 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 Commerce in wool for hading countries,— Ts^Aq 32 gives the imports and exports of raw wool for leading countries. The reexports of wool from the United Kingdom have been included in her exports, because of their great importance. The important consuming coun- tries appear as the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, and France. Belgium, Italy, Austria-Hungary, and Kussia are sec- ond in importance only to the above countries. The great producing and exporting countries appear as Australia, New Zealand, Soutli Africa, Argentina, and Uruguay. The imports and exports of raw wool for other countries are given in Table 229, on page 257. I KEPOET OF TAKIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K, 67 Table 32. — Imports and exports of raw wool for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. United States United Kingdom i Germany France Belgium Italy Austria-Hungary Eussia Australia • New Zealand British South Africa Argentina Uruguay 'i 1909 Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Founds. 203,709,660 803,432,648 431,902,084 621,751,213 131,380,(585 23,857,740 66,272,481 94; 975, 797 648, 411 144,376 14,580 179, 732 3,589 Dollars. 33,775,211 155,175,044 84,917,210 122,447,978 34,504,801 5, 897, 088 16,719,599 22,663,567 114,747 33,613 1,421 23,600 421 Pounds. 28,376 1452,375,953 37,824,102 90,888,383 40,051,742 4,253,990 10,135,048 20.685,087 602,606,140 189, 083, 703 130,981,518 389,513,137 128,708,080 DoUara. 4,668 190,841,009 10,407,240 26,257,285 17,438,244 1,212,135 2,604,377 2,532,685 123, 728, 193 30,087,604 18,144,599 57,824.490 19,317,304 United States United Kingdom i. . Germany France Belgium Italy Austria-Hungary Australia' New Zealand British South Africa. Argentina 1910 Imports. Quantity. Value. Exports. Quantity. Value. Pounds. 251,969,909 797, 418, 403 436,386,081 606, 473, 776 355,584,811 27,070,063 60,019,353 11,549 243,245 Dollars. 46,675,784 164,543,845 92, 762, 880 119,722,140 80,936,432 6, 257, 251 15, 185, 422 37,857 1.329 31,942 Pounds. 47,520 1371,616,883 36,312,627 81, 705, 783 241,457,748 3,386,927 8,721,618 604,638,418 121,672,258 332,010,555 Dollars. 10,077 178,995,802 10,308,970 23,604,479 70,813,074 1,032,745 2, 448, 415 139,395,267 8 40,378,873 18,643,143 56,788,030 1 The exports for the United Kingdom include, for 1909, 390,106,753 pounds of reexported wool, valued at $77,457,818; for 1910, 334,043,583 pounds of reexported wool, valued at S09,007,1S1. > Australian data for 1910 are provisional. » From Daily Consular and Trade Reports, Dec. 6, 1911. Paragraph 372.— SOFT WASTES. Top waste, Blubbing waste, roving waste, ring waste, and garaetted waste, thirty cents per pound. Nature of soft wastes in S72. — The wastes enumerated in paragraph 372 (with the exception of garnetted waste) are known in the trade as soft wastes. Soft wastes, which are produced by the worsted industry, are confined to wastes which can be reconverted into the material from which they came and used for the same purpose for which that material was originally intended. The term "waste" used in this connection is in fact misleading. Tlie reconversion of these wastes into a continuous rope of wool is an inexpensive process and from this form they may be spun into yarns of only a slightly lower count than the one originally intended. Soft wastes seU for approximately the same price as scoured wool of equal quality. Kinds of soft waste. — ^While wool is being combed, i. e., being con- verted into a continuous sliver of parallel fibers called a top, and while it is being subsequently gilled— a process consisting of both INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE EEPORT OF TAKIFF BOARD OX SCHEDULE K. 67 Table 32. — Imports and exports of ran: wool for laidinfj countrits in 1909 and 1910. United >tates liiiled Kingdoiu '... Cii-naauy FrancL- rieli^ium lt:,ily Ausiriu-lluiigdry Iliissiii Austnilia* Is'ew Zealand liritish South Africa. , Art-'cr.nna LiLiguay I'JU'J Imports. 1 Exports. Pounds. •2m, 7(19. 431,902, (■.21,751, 131.380, 23,857, 06.272, 94,975, 648, 144, 14, 179. (it':) f.'i5> 0S4 213 t>85 740 4S1 797 411 370 580 732 5S9 Dollars. 3:^.775.211 155.175,044 84.917,210 122,4 47,978 34.504,801 5. 897, 088 10.719,599 22,003,507 114,747 33,013 1.421 23, 000 421 QuuolUy. rounds. 2s. 370 1 4.52 375, 953 37,824,102 90,888,383 40,051,742 4,25:5,990 10,13.5,048 20. 085, 087 002, (KX;, 140 189. (*3, 70:3 130,981,518 3S9,.513.]37 128, 70S. 080 \'alue. 1 Dollars. 4. or.s 190.841,009 10, 407, 2 10 20,257,285 17,438,244 1,212,135 2,004,377 2, 532, 085 123,728,193 30,087,004 18,144,599 .57, 824. 490 19,317,304 1910 liuporl<. Exports. United States United King'.4.!.:]8.418 Value. 121.(172,258 332.010,5.55 Dollars. lu <''77 » 78,995 80J 10,308,970 23.604,479 70,813,074 1,032, 745 2, 448, 415 139.. 395. 2(;7 3 40, 378, 873 18,043, 143 .'"'(;.78^. 030 1 The exports for the irnited Kingdom include, for 1000, 3W,100,7.'3 pounds of reexported wool, valued at S77,457,8lS; lor 1910, 334.(;43,583 pounds of reexported wool, valued at St*9,t>07,i:il. 2 Ausiralian data for 1910 are provisional. 3 From Daily Consular and Trade Keports, Dec. 0, 1911. Paragraph 372.— SOFT WASTES. Top waste, Blubbing waste, roving waste, riii;2? \va;~te, and gametted waste, thirty cents per pound. Nature of soft wastes in 372. — The wastes enumerated in paraj>rapli 372 (witli the exception of garnetted waste) are known in the tiade as soft wastes. Soft wastes, which are produced by tlie worsted industry, are confined to wastes which can be reconverted into the material from which they came and used for the same purpose for wliich^ that material was originally intended. The term *' waste" used in tins connection is in fact misleadinp^. Tlie reconversion of these wastes into a continuous rope of wool is an inex])ensive process and from this form tliey may be spun into yarns of only a s%htlv lower count than the one onginally intentled. Soft wastes sell for approximately the same price as scoured wool of ec^ual quality. Kinds of soft waste. — While wool is being combed, i. e., being con- verted into a continuous sliver of parallel libers called a top, and while it is being subsequently gilled— -a process consisting of both 68 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. drawing and combing — pieces of the top are broken off or become entangled in the machinery, and these the machine tender removes. These pieces are top waste. Slubbing and roving wastes are pro- duced m drawing — a sort of preUminary spinning process found in the worsted industry between combing and spmning. The wool when it enters the drawing room is called top; after the first twist has been given to the sliver, it is called slubbing and any broken J)ieces of slubbing are known as slubbing waste. When the wool eaves the drawing room, it is called a rovmg — a comparatively thin, continuous strand of parallel fiber which is ready to be spun into a yarn without excessive draft. Any broken bits of roving are roving waste. In the French system of worsted spinning (see p. 112) the bits of roving which encircle the clearer rollers o! the 'Wle'' are called ring waste. The wool when pulled off the rollers by the machine tender is in the form of ringlets which may be recarded and recombed just as new wool. Garnetted waste properly does not belong among the soft wastes since it can not be reclaimed in its original form. In the process of spinning a small per cent of the yarn becomes entangled in the rollers and must be removed as thread waste. This waste reduced to fiber by a gamett machine is garnetted waste. The threads are unraveled and torn by the action of the iron teeth on the cylinders of the maclune. As a rule, this waste is sold by the worsted industry to other branches of wool manufactures. Soft wastes are seldom, if ever, found in the markets of the United States. Garnetted waste, however, is extensively dealt in. It is classified according to the quality of wool from wliich it was made. English quotations for waste. — Quotations for garnetted waste and laps (soft waste) in England are given in Table 33. They were obtained by the American consul at Bradford from leading English trade authorities. Table 33. — Quotations in England for garnetted waste and laps (soft waste). Crossbred garnetted thread waste Merino garnetted thread waste Super seventies garnetted thread waste White merino laps Colored merino laps Wliite crossbred laps 1909 Cts. per lb. 19. 3-19. 8 37.0 36.5-38.5 46. 6-48. 2 42. 6-43. 1 21.3-22.3 1910 Ct». per lb. 21.3-22.3 37.0-37.5 38. 5-39. 49. 7-SO. 7 43. 1-44. 6 25.9 1911 Cts. per lb. 22.3-2.3.3 38.0 39.0-40.1 47.7 42.1 22. 8-23. 8 Top waste under the act of 1894. — '' ' Wool waste ' as employed in the tariff acts,'* the court says in 46 Federal Reporter, 461, '' signifies such parts or particles of wool as are thrown off in the several processes of manufacture of wool in wool or worsted fabrics, and does not include wool which has been prepared for spinning, and artificially and in- tentionally made into a form like such parts or particles, even if some- times called ' waste ' in trade." This decision was rendered necessary because the effort was made under the act of 1894 when wool wastes were free of duty to import as top waste tops intentionally broken up. Rate of duty on soft wastes. — Top waste, slubbing waste, roving waste, riiig waste, and garnetted waste are dutiable at 30 cents per pound. These wastes, except garnetted waste, may be used as sub- I n REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. •O G 03 a> C3 CO 2 S • •s a fa -si C a> 03 __ o:t3 OS *^ £ ddy in commerce. — ^Belgium and France do not enumerate shoddy separately in their imports and exports. The commerce in shoddy for other leading wool-manufacturing countries is presented in Table 37. British exports are sent chiefly to Germany, Portugal, Sweden, and Russia; German exports chiefly to Austria-Hungary. 1 For furttker details of sboddy mdustry in the United Slates, see p. 214. Table 37. — Imports and exports of shoddy and mungo for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Countries. Imports. Exports. Imports. ExxKjrts. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. TJnited States ' Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. 30 6,837,114 6.926,192 3,985,035 $2 473,413 673,064 433,904 Pounds. United Kingdom Germany. 4,512,128 6,860,715 3,655,668 9323,596 629,510 373,471 8,245,900 10,378,816 5,063,525 $1,197,174 1,019,592 528,845 11,956,600 11,207,745 4,966,964 $1,701,912 1,279,488 AustriSrHungary 513,385 > For comments on the exports from the United States, see p. 71. NOILS. Noils defined. — ^The process of combing leaves the combed wool free from all vegetable matter, dirt, or other foreign substance which may have adhered to the wool up to that point in the manufacturing processes. Combing also removes the short and immature fibers from the wool and the fibers left in the top are more or less parallel. The short, tangled fibers separated from the combed sliver in the combing process are the noil. In order to spin a uniform worsted yarn the noil must be removed, but, while the noil is waste from combing, it is by no means a valueless product. It is used extensively in making carded woolen yarns and is a very important raw material. (See Illustration 3.) Carbonized noils. — As has been said, the noil contains a varying amount of vegetable material in the form of bits of straw, burs, etc., which are removed from the wool by the comb. In order to make the noils more marketable, firms which deal extensively in them have them carbonized, a process which reduces the vegetable matter in the noil to carbon by subjecting them to the action of sulphuric acid or aluminum chloride. The wool fiber is left more or less unharmed and the absence of foreign matter improves the spinning quahties of the noil. Naturally, the carbonizing of noils increases their value per pound. (See Illustration 3.) Noils from reconohing. — For making the best worsted yams, i. e., those of the highest counts, some spinners recomb the top. The per cent of noil in the second is much less than in the first combing, but the noil is cleaner and more valuable. Both carbonized and second combing noils pay the same rate of duty when imported as ordinary noils do. Classification cf noils in the United States. — Noils are an important article of commerce. They are a by-product of the worsted industry and a raw material of the woolen and Knitting industries. Firms give their whole attention to buying them from the former, grading and carbonizing them, and selling them to the latter. They are classified according to the qualitv of wool from which they were combed, as fine domestic noils, half blood domestic noils, three-eighths blood domestic noils, quarter blood domestic noils, coarse domestic noils. Tliis same general classification is used for noils from Australian and South American wools. There are no hard and fast lines between the different classifications and for tliis reason a noil classified by one firm as low quarter blood would be classified as coarse by another, etc. 74 BEPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 75 imii Hence, prices vary widely. Tlie quotations nresented in Table 38 are representative and are based on actual sales of noils made in Philadelpnia in 1910. Table 38. — Pricm ofnmk in Philadelphia^ Fa., for 1910. (From trade sources.] Fine domestic Half blood domestic Threenndiths blood doniestir . . Quarter blood domestic Coarse domestic Fine Australian Half blood Australian ThmM^ichths blood Australian Quarter blood Australian OBarse AustraiiiMi Highest. Lowest. Cents per Cents per pouTtd. pound. 50 40 45 35 40 30 35 25 25 18 G3 57 58 52 45 43 40 35 35 32 Classification of noils in United Kingdom.— Tops in England are designated by the count of yarn to which they are supposed to spin, e. g., 603 top, 70s top, etc. Noils are classified on the basis of the quality of top from which they are combed. A 50s noil, therefore, is a noil combed from a top of 50s quaUty, and so with all the quahties designated in Table 39. It may be said, parenthetically, tnat 64s to 70s in England are approxmiately eq^uivalent to tfae fine in the United States for wool of the same origin, 58s to 60s to half blood, 52s to 56s to three-eighths blood, 50s to high quarter blood, 42s to 46s to low quarter and quarter blood, 36s to 40s to coarse. Tliese equivalents are only approximately correct. The opinion of men m tlie trade varies widely as to just what quaUty a term describes^ and, for this reason, any comparison must be taken with quahfication. Quotations for noils in England,-~QuotfLilons for representative qualities of noils in England are presented in Table 39. Thej were obtained by the American consul at Bradford from leading LngUsh trade authorities. Table 39. — Quotations f yr Twils in England. Quality. First quarter. Second quarter. Third quarter. Fourth quarter. M^ and 4^ 1909. Cts. per lb. 15.2 16.2 20.3 24.3 27.4 16.2 17.2 19.3 23.3 28.4 17.7 19.3 21.3 24.3 26.4 Cts. per lb. 16.2 17.2 20.3 24.3 29.4 17.2 18.3 20.3 24.3 28.4 18.3 19.3 22.3 24.3 26.4 Cts. per lb. 16.2 17.2 20.3 24.3 30.4 17.2 18.3 20.3 24.3 27-4 17.2 18.3 21.3 23.3 25.4 Cts. per lb. 15.7 JiOs 16.2 ma 19.3 K«S 23.3 fim 27.4 403 and 46s 1910. 17.7 fiOa 19.3 SBs 1 21.3 S8s 24.3 fiflS- . 1 W.i JAS^ Alicl 4Ci3 1911. 17.2 fSOB - 1 18.3 Mh. . . ■ ".. 21.3 figg 23.3 ma 25.4 Another authority in Bradford, England, reported to the American consul that Botany noils, 60s. to 64s. quality, sold in 1909 for from 27.9 to 31.9 cents; in 1910, from 30.4 to 32.4 cents; and in 1911, from 29.9 to 31.9 cents. Bate of duty and imports of noils. — ^The rate of duty on noils of all qualities fixed by paragraph 373 is 20 cents per pound. This flat specific rate acts to exclude from this country all noils except a small quantity of high-class noils. The imports of noils for representative years into the United States are given in Table 40. Table 40. — Imports of noils entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending Juno 30— Quantity. Value. Tlevemie derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (computed J. 18961 Pounds. 1,185,032 144,306 90,314 122,227 170,530 $232,150 50,413 31.625 76,253 106,664 '■^57.25 1900 $28,861 18,063 24,445 34,106 1905 57.12 1910 32.06 1911 31.98 » Not incliulinR rarhonized noils; value, $11,379; duty, 15 jier cent ad valorem; revenue, $1,707. • Noils free of duty under Wilson bill. The average value of noils imported in 1910 and 1911 was over 60 cents per pound, wliich would indicate the importation of only the highest quality of carbonized noils. The lowest average value per pound of noils imported under the acts of 1897 and 1909 prior to 1910 was 26.6 cents and the highest 41.9 cents. Sixty cents for 1910 and 1911 is liigher than the average and these liigh valuations make the computed ad valorem rate lower. For this reason the computed ad valorem rate of 32.06 per cent in 1910 and 31.9§ per cent in 1911 is not representative except for noils of maximum value. Ordinary noils, as shown in Table 39, range from 15 to 30 cents in value in Bradford. The rate on noils valued at 20 cents, if imported, would be 100 per cent of their value; on noils valued at 30 cents, 66| per cent of their value. As compared with the quantity of noils offered for sale in the United States (27,938,313 pounds in 1909) the importation is neghgible. Imports of noils J by countries. — The import statistics of the United States by countries (Table 3 of "Commerce and Navigation") classify together mungo, shoddy, wool extract, noils, rags, and wastes. But since the imports of all these materials except noi& and rags are negligible for 1900, 1905, and 1909, we may conclude that for these yeai-s the figures are chiefly noils and secondarily rags. The imports for 1896, when wastes, noils, and rags were free of duty, include all the enumerated materials. These imports are presented in Table 41. 76 BEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 41. — Imports ofmungo, shoddy^ noils^ wool extract, rags and waste, by countries, entered for immediate amsumption or for tuarehotise, into the United States. 18% Country of origin. ■t Quantity.) Value. Belgium France. Germany Itaiy Netherlands United Kingdom. 'Cuiada Otlier countries.. Pounds. &18,386 5,440,333 2,975,2&4 93,626 86.396 8,936,494 £90,528 Doiiars. 95,088 824,063 516,446 7,602 4,324 1,177,847 25,837 1900 Quantity. Pounds. 11,965 112,263 112,288 182,560 16,798 Value. Dollars. 4,780 14,485 6,276 61,173 173 1905 Quantity. Pounds. 3,621 200 136,477 13,304 39,537 Value. DdUirs. 1,280 29,453 51 47,284 1.273 7,637 19091 Quantity. Pounds. 12,258 56,031 3,678 379,638 44,615 53 Value. Dollars. 4,937 22,680 1,215 112,262 1,524 7 I Included in "All other manufactures of" after 1909. Production of noils in the United States. — Noils produced by the worsted industry in the United States are presentea in Table 42. Table 42. — Production of noils in the worsted industry of the United States. Quantity poimds. . Value 1909 1899 2<, 144.282 $8,868,337 12.032.814 S3,33G,2ol Ter cent of increase. 125.21 165.89 The increase in the production of noils during the decade of 125.21 per cent in quantity and 165.89 per cent in value is one of the many evidences of the expansion of the worsted industrv. There being no export of noils, this quantity was all used in the United States, chiefly by the carded woolen and hosiery industry in making woolen yam. K Table 42 does not include the comparatively small amount of noils reported among the products of the woolen and carpet industries. In 1899 the woolen industrj reported 124,029 pounds of noils, valued at $18,936, and the carpet mdustry reported 674,188 pounds of noils, valued at $120,131. In 1909 the woolen industry reported 335,011 pounds of noOs, valued at $70,352, and the carpet industry reported 459,020 pounds, valued at $96,830. Noils produced in England. — The statistics for noils produced in the United Kingdom as reported in the census of 1907 are admitted so incomplete that they may be disregarded. It may be asaumed, however, that if 1,925 combs in the worsted industry of the United States produced 27,144,282 pounds of noils in 1909, the 3,000 combs of the United Kingdom produced considerably more. Commerce for leadina countries in noils. — "The import and export figures of noils for leading foreign countries are more or less incom- plete, but such as they are, they are presented in Table 43. The United Kingdom's chief markets for noils are Russia and Germany. Austria-Hungary is Germany's chief market for noils. Unfortunately, noils are not reported separately for France. \ REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 77 Table 43. — Imports and exports of noils for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Countries. Imports. Exports. Imports. Exports. • Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. United States Pounds. 127,965 *49,754 PouTids. Pounds. 122,227 $76,253 Pounds. United Kingdom 16,073,500 9,265,493 $4,829,646 2,459,968 17,232,700 9,821,052 $5,503,101 2,750,804 German V 6,090,741 1,805,706 6,201,981 1,606,976 France ' Austria-Hungary 8,720,736 2,441,727 3,492,527 778,845 9,835,162 2,526,026 '3,'266,'383 733.241 1 Noils are included in waste of wool (bourre entifere). See Table 47. TARN WASTES AND OTHER WOOL WASTES. Other wastes (f^^na?.— Paragraph 373 also fixes the duty on ''yam waste, thread waste, and all other wastes composed wholly or in part of wool, and not specially provided for in this section." The chief wastes provided for under this provision are the hard wastes from the worsted spuming room known as yam or thread waste. They are bits of yam or thread which are broken or wasted in the adjustment and manipulation of the spinning frame. By the comparatively inex- pensive process of garnet ting, they can be converted^ into garnet ted waste. Among the other wastes dutiable under this paragraph are the waste from the cardmg process; burr waste, i. e.. burrs with particles of wool clinging thereto knocked out of the wool by the burr rollers on a card or on a machine made specifically for that purpose* cotton waste mixed with wool (T. D. 13217-21409); waste from' waterproof garments (T. D. 15550); and wool waste and raffs mixed (T. D. 12986). ^ Quotations for thread wa^te in England.— The most important waste dutiable under paragraph 373 is thread or spinning room waste. Uuotations m England for various qualities of tliis waste are given in 1 able 44. Thejr were obtained by the American consul at Bradford from leadmg English trade authorities. These quotations are for 1911 and are sHghtly liigher than they were in 1909 and 1910. Table 44.— Quotations for worsted-thread waste in England, 1911. Worsti'd Worsted Worsted Worsted Worsted Worsted •thread waste, 60's -thread waste, 56's ■thread waste, 50's ■thread waste, 46's ■thread waste, 40's ■thread waste, 36's 1911 (cents per pound). 36.5 28.4 24.3 21.3 20.3 19.3 itr^H^fL*^ ^^i'^'^^'^^''''^ of y^astes.— The duty on the hard wastes ^«f ^f ^''/ll'^ ''^^^'' '^''''^ "^^^^f^ ^^ 20 cents per pound. Gametted iTn^it "^"^ ^®i°i^'*^ properly classed here than with the soft wastes iTmornr^^P^^?^'/f ^ difference of 10 cents per pound in duty 18 more than sufficient to cover the inexpensive operation by which 78 BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDITI>E K. the hard wastes may be reduced to garaetted waste. The imports of hard and other unspecified wastes are shown in Table 45. Table 45. — Imports of yarn ^ tkrmd, and other unspecijied wa&tesfor conmmption into the United States. Finral year ending June .^0— Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. • Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). liOO Pounds. 11,547 111,559 92,938 37,850 13.447 40,998 32,063 13,010 f2,309 22.312 18,588 7,570 67 00 1905 , 1910 1911 , 54.42 57.97 58 19 For the last two jea.m the average %'alue of these wastes imported has been a little over 34 cents per pound, which would indicate waste of good quality. Tlie duty of 20 cents per pound practically excludes the lower grades of wastes. F- F" F J Production of wastes in the United States, — The soft wastes, as has been said, are reused in the worsted mills where they are produced. The chief wastes bought and sold in the United States are garnet ted, thread, yarn, knitting, and the low wastes. The production of wool waste for sale in the United States in 1899 and 1909 is presented in Table 46. Table 46. — Wool waste produced for sale in the United States. Industry. 1909 1899 Per cent of increase. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Worsted Pounds. 3,742,847 1,620.675 258,853 11,324 f3,3.\3.18S 191,727 67,334 13,411 1,489 Pounds. 7,184.821 978,473 330,351 18,260 tl,lfi2.610 67,059 21,133 7,968 182. 75 382.52 490.50 141 7fi 186.70 28.*) 91 Woolen Carpet and rugs 318.63 ifio no Felt goods Woof felt hats As table 46 shows, the wastes reported by the worsted industry are by far the largest per centum of the production in the United States. Tiie production of worsted wastes increased during the decade 182.75 per cent in quantity and 186.70 per cent in vatue. The rates of mcrease for the woolen and carpet industries are larger than for the worsted industry, but the quantities are comparatively small. Commerce of leading countries in wastes. — ^Table 47 presents the imports and exports of wool wastes for the leading countries. It should be noted before studying this table that the term wool waste has various meanings in the statistical publications of foreign coun- tries; it should alsobe noted that the qualitj of wastes entering into the commerce of different countries varies widely. With these quali- fications, however, the table gives some valuable information. It shows how extensively wastes of wool enter into the commerce of the world and how isolated the United States is in the commerce. I BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K, 79 Table 47. — Imports and exports of wool waste for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. CotUitry. 1909 Imports. Exports. 1910 Imports. Quantity, Value. United States United Kingdom... Germany France * Austria-Hungary — Italy Pounds 89,855 3,687,181 16,2f]t>,2(» 25,656,473 8,508,874 7,355,648 135,813 48.3, 253 2,633,946 6,513,621 1,096,898 2,035,479 Quantity. Pounds. 49,336,523 3,247,817 1,380,741 Value. 12,521, 7aS 2,523,752 9,156,551 438,983 285,970 Quantity. Pounds. 92,938 3,968,1.37 17,032,078 29,845,434 10,491,912 7,645,994 Value. $32,063 572,344 2,758,182 Exports. Quantity. Pounds. 11,907,100 19,504,978 7,577,18058,665,067 1,352,536 2,141,092 3,451,742 1,682,110 Value. $3,223,916 2,999,990 10,887,902 444,972 360,785 1 Includes noils, except a very small quantity of dyed noils. Paragraph 374.— WOOLEN RAGS, MXJNGO, AND FLOCKS. Woolen rags, mungo, and flocks, ten cents per pound. WOOLEN BAGS. Baas defined. — Rags, both old and new, are the chief raw material of the shoddy industry. Old rags consist of worn men's and women's garments, such as suitings, coatings, sweaters, stockings, dress goods, and the like. Their variety is as diverse as woven goods. New rags, having the same diversity in quality, color, and composition, are the clippings which fall from the cutting tables of ready-made suit and cloalc houses, tailor shoos, and wherever cuttings from woolen fabrics may arise. (See illustration 2.) Collection of rags. — The old-rag business begins with the familiar country peddler or city pushcart man who gathers all kinds of old junk, among which there is a relatively small per cent of woolen rags. At tne end of his day's work, the peddler disposes of his heterogeneous collection to the small dealer m the town or city. The rags, as purchased by liim, are both cotton and wool. He first separates the cotton from the wool. The former he sells to the paper mills or a lobber; the latter he sorts into three grades: (a) Kough cloth, (b) skirted cloth, (c) soft woolens. Rough cloth is made up of street rags and other coarse and much-worn woolens wliich are ground up and used in making felt paper and machine waste. Skirted cloth is the hard-woven fabrics, chiefly men's suitings and heavy coats. The term "skirted" refers to the tearing out of the linings. Soft woolens are made up of sweaters, stockings, hoods, soft dress goods known as merinos, and hke soft and loosely woven fabrics. Sorting and classifying of old rags. — Skirted cloth and soft woolens are sold by the small dealer to the large dealer, who finally sorts the rags in hundreds of sorts according to the demands of the shoddy trade. It may be stated parenthetically that the organization of rag collection is not as uniform as indicated by this short review. Sometimes the small dealer sorts his rags into the sorts demanded by % f}^^^^y trade. Often, also, the jobbers intervene between the peddler and small dealer and between the small and large dealers. As \^ 'i ^l^w®^®r> t^e rags reach the large dealer in the form of old skirted cloth and soft woolens. These rags, generally very dusty, are sorted, as a rule by women poorly paid, into the numerous sorts dependmg upon quahty, structure, composition, and color of the rags. 80 iffiPOET OF TAKIFF BOABD OW SCHEDULE K. Without trying to enumerate exhaustively the many sorts made by the large deajers, the following will indicate their nature: Sorts from old skirted cloths.— -Baik skirted cloth, light skirted cloth, blue skirted cloth, black skirted doth, dark skirted worsteds, blue skirted worsteds, black skirted worsteds, light skirted worsteds, blue skirted serge. Sorts from old soft woolens.— White knit, old red flannels, white stockings, white hood stock, fine dark merinos, fine light merinos, fine black merinoe, red kmt, brown knit, light gray knit. . „ On page 70 of this report the names of representative sorts of rags are given in connection with the discussion of shoddy and, studied in connection with the sorts enumerated above, give some idea of the varied classification of woolen rags. The prices of sorts of old rags vary all the way up from ^' small merinos," at 2 or 3 cents per pound, to *' white flannels^' or "white knit," at 20 or more cents per pound. New clip business.— The business of dealing in new rags is also very important. These rags are collected from the small tailor establish- ments or sweatshops and sold as ''mixed new chps" to the large dealer. The dealer also buys the cuttings from the large ready-made clothing establishments, where a great many cMppings are wasted in cutting garments. New rags are smaller than old rags, and therefore the sorting of them is slower. The grades of them are made on the same principle as the grades of oldf rags. The following are rep- resentative: Fine light worsteds, clothing clips; blue light worsteds, clothing clips; fine lig^t cloth; blue cloth; fine unions; white worsted, cloaking clips; dark serges, cloaking clips; mixed French flannels. Rag quotations in the United States^ 1 904-1 91 L— Table 48 presents price quotations for old and new rags in the United States for each year since 1904. It shows a general lower level of prices on almost all grades of rags since 1907, when exportation of rags began to be important (see Table 52), than on similar grades prior to that time. Table 4^.— Price quotations in cents per pound on old skirted cloth, soft woolen ragt, and new tailor clips in the United States, January, 1904, to December 7, 1911. [From the American Wool and Cotton Reporter.] Old stock: Skirted cloth, mixed Light skirted cloth Fine light skirted cloth Blue skirted cloth Brown skirted cloth Black skirted cloth Dark skirted cloth Black skirted worsted Blue skirted worsted Dark skirted worsted Soft woolen No. 1 Soft old red flannels Soft old blue flannels Soft old white flannels N«w stock: Mixed French flannels Fine merchant tailors, all cjolors New brown cheviots New scarlet flannels New black flannels Light cadet clips Amiy blue clips, pure indigo. 1904 > 5 21 7 05 7 8i 6 18 7 llj 19 14 14 20 6 61 6 9 6^ 7 lOJ 11 8 20 10 12 20 15 15 23 1905 > s a*. P 4 4 4 8 5 6 81 10 7 18 S lU 19 14 14 20 si JSf Cts. 6 «i 6 5 4J 5 11 20 11 12 20 15 15 23 1906 > 5 6 5 5 ? 9 10 8 9 12 18 9 111 19 14 14 20 s Cts. 6 ^ 7 11 9 10 13 10 20 12 12 20 16 15 23 1907 ^ 3 Cts. 4 4 7 4 4 ^ 3 i» 7 8 12 8 18 11 llj 19 14 14 20 i 12 12 20 16 15 23 1908 10 Hi 13 10 14 20 as ^ 5 "k 3 9 8 8f 8 12| 9 20 12 12 20 15 15 23 1909 > 2 Cts 3J 4 7 3 4 ?! t\ 5 9^ 6 7 Hi 5 8 13i 14 as. ^ 84 4| 4i 4 3 7 6i 6 f)| 12 n lOi Hi 12 15 12 18i 22 1910 ^ 3 as. 2} 3 6 2J 2 2 ^ 4 3 4 4 15 7 Hi 5 6 16 16 tc as 4i 5 84 i 6 5 .?! 7 16i 8i 12 18 10 18i 18 1911 ^ 2 as. 3 5 i' 2 1{ 4i 3i 2i 4* 71 4 15 101 5 Hi 17 6 16 16 12 8 12 18 iii IS if I BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 81 Ouotaffwns for American rags %n England.—TnoT to 1907 the American rag busmess found a market for its rags m the Umted States and 3ie prices were maintained above foreign pnces by the high tariff rate. Begmning with 1907 and increasing rapidly for ev^ year since, there has been an exportation of domestic rags, due to tlie lack of demand for them in this country. This condition, hrst, brought American prices to the competitive level of foreign rags and, seco^, within the last two years (1910 and 1911) when the imports of woolen rags into the United Kingdom from the Umted States were greater than from any other country, it has caused the foreign prices to dechne. Present quotations, therefore, represent a very ]bw price condition. Quotations for American rags sold m Dewsbury, England, in 1911 are presented in Table 49. They were obtained by the American consul at Bradford from leading rag auction hrms m Dewsbury. Table 49.— Quotations in Dewsbury, England, for specified American rags in 1911. New mixed linseys. . . Dark sknted cloth . . . Unskirted cloth New Union clips Black skirted cloth. . Blue skirted cloth — Brown skirted cloth. Light skirted cloth. . . Dark skiried worsted Mixed skirted cloth. . Black serge 1911 Otwi per lb. 1.3-1.7 1.7-1.8 1.7-1.8 1.8-2.4 2.4-2.5 2.4-2.5 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.0 4.2 Blue skirted yp-orsted j< ine dark merinos Light skirted worsted Soft woolens (sweaters, flannels, etc.) Black skirted worsteds New fine dark clips New tailor clips Tan cloth Brown stockings and knits New black flannels Billiard cloth, green 1911 Cts. perJb. 4.3-4.5 4.6 5.0-5.2 5.2 6.0-5.4 5.9 5.9-7.2 6.a-6.7 6.5 6.5 8.3 Quotations for other rags in England.— Bewshuryy England, is the most important rag market in the world. Kags are brought there from many countries and sold at auction as raw wool is sold on the colonial sales in London. In general, it may be said that the rag business is as highly systematized as any connected with textile raw materials, and great skill is displayed in handhng and judging them. In Dewsbury they are classified according to the country of ongm and according to whether they are mungo rags (i. e., hard-woven goods) or soft rags (i. e., kmtted and fight dress goods). From among the many rag quotations on the auction circular of one of the leading firms in Dewsbury the following -are chosen. Kags are quoted in shillings and pence per hundredweight (112 pounds), but the quotations given in Table 50 are expressed in cents and decunals per pound. 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 6 82 EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Tablb W. — QuotaHomfor rags in Dewahwry^ England. Ifnngo rags: Scotch linsoys French now dark cheviots Norwegian new mixed Scotch Dlack and blue worsted DanHi new blue cheviots Scotch best stockings and comforters. . . French new steel cheviots Scotch new fancy worsted. French new black worsted French new liancy worsted, large pleoos Soft rags: Scotch lii^t Angola Scotch carpets - - Scotch si^-cond stockings French light blue molliton Danish dark gray stockings Belgian best bhick stockings Sco^h first stockings Dutch first black stockings, long legs. . . Scotch white knitted 1910 1911 CtM.perlb. CU.perlb. 1.0 1.0 3.0 4.1 6.1 5.8 7.8 6.5 8.7 6.1 8.7 8.0 0.6 9.3 - 12.4 12.4 13.0 10.9 14.6 14.3 1.4 1.6 1.7 1.8 6.5 5.3 6.5 5.9 7.1 7.8 10.0 KkS 10.4 9.8 10.5 10.3 16.7 15.2 Eaie of duty and imports of rugs. — The rate of duty fixed by para- graph 374 on woolen rags, both new and old, is 10 cents per pound. Since the price of only the best rags abroad is over 10 cents per pound, while the poorer grades often sell as low as 2 and 3 cents per pound, the duty acts to prevent the im|>ortation of all except tne highest grades. The few rags which were imported into the United States for the indicated years are shown in Table 51 . Table 51. — Imports of rags amd flocks entered for consumption into the United States, Quantity. Fiscal year ending June 30— 18961 1900 1905 1910 1911 Pounds. 11,116,402 155,802 68,141 362,525 241,800 Value. 1643,945 20,181 12,734 95,191 68,263 Bevenue derived. U5,580 6,814 36,252 24,180 Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). («) 77.20 53.51 38.08 35.43 I Ri^s only. "Mungo and flocks" not included; value, 13,211; duty, 15 per cent ad valorem; revenue^ Si82. > Rags were flree of duty under the Wilson bill. These figures show the average price of the rags imported from abroad in 1910 to be 26 cents per pound and in 191 1 to be 28 cents per pound. From these prices it must be inferred that only the finest rags were imported. At least, any rags costing 26 to 28 cents per pound abroaa would be a very superior quality. The computed ad valorem rates of 38.08 per cent in 1910 and 35.42 per cent in 1911 represent the rates therefore on the very best grades of rags. The rags selling in Dewsbury at 10 cents per pound if imported would pay a duty of 100 per cent of their value; those selling at 5 cents per pound a duty of 200 per cent of their value; and the cheaper grades would of course be dutiable at a still higher ad valorem rate. Exports of woolen rags, — While there are no exports for rags re- ported separately in Commerce and Navigation of the United States, It is a well-known fact in the trade that a large and increasing percentage of domestic rags are being exported. The exportation began to be marked in 1907 and has increased steadily ever since. 1 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 83 The United Kingdom being the chief destination of these rags, the unports into the United Kingdom from the United States give some indication of the growth of the American export trade in rags. They are presented in Table 52. There was also some export of rags to other countries not shown in this table. Table 52. Woolen rags imported into the United Kingdom from the United States. Year. Quantity. 1906.. 1907.. 1908.. 1909.. 1910.. 1911.. Pounds. 528,640 4,519,040 8,075,200 19,745,600 37,602,880 137,105,600 Value. $17,460 114,676 267,226 729,407 1,480,214 11,552,701 I First 10 months of year only. The rapid increase in the exportation of rags from the United States into the United Kingdom has been at least in part due to the popularity of worsteds and the diminished demand for woolen goods. The imports of rags into the United Kingdom from the United States were larger in 1910 and 1911 than the importation from any other country. In 1910, 28.48 per cent of all the imports of woolen rags into the United Kingdom came from the United States, and of all the imports of woolen rags for the first 10 months of 1911 into the United Kingdom^ 34.01 per cent came from the United States. WhUe this situation has brought the prices for rags in the United States down to the competitive basis of forei^ markets, the situation has given American dealers a chance to win a place for American rags abroad, and the increasing exports indicate success rather than faflure in tneir undertaking. The rag business is really the only business protected by Schedule K that is on an export basis. Commerce in woolen rags, — Table 53 presents the imports and exports of woolen rags for certain leading foreign countries. The imports into the United Kingdom are noticeably large. Her manu- facturers have attained great skill in reclaiming the wool from rags and making from it cheap woolen cloth. The chief countries from which she imports are Russia (2,286 long tons in 1910), Denmark (1.685 long tons in 1910), Germany (11,203 long tons in 1910), Neth- erlands (3,833 long tons in 1910), Belgium (3,786 long tons in 1910), France (14,425 long tons in 1910), and the United States (13,787 long tons in 1910). Table 53. — Imports and exports of woolen rags for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Country. Imports. Exports. Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. United States 1 Pounds. 32,773 103,967,360 28,868,576 14,443,878 $9,232 4,376,833 1,090,754 758,687 Pounds. Pounds. 362,525 132,034,560 10,291,073 15,393,840 $95,191 5,583,808 3,173,920 808,670 Pounds. United Kingdom... Germany' France 62,429,422 73,136,723 $3,491,222 4,930,077 6.637,120 56,330,176 60,118,119 $721,186 3,525.256 4,052,421 » Including flocks. > Included in shoddy. > Including silk and other textile rags. 84 BEFOBT OF TABIFP BOABD 01^ SCHEDULE K. MUNQO AND PLOCKS. PaxaOTaph 374 provides also for mungo and flocks. Munffo is a low-grade shoddy made from hard-spun felted and fuUed doths aa knitted fabncs. This distinction, however, is generaUy disregarded m the Amencan trade and mungos are classed as low-grade shoddies Mocks are the short fiber or nap shorn from the surface of woven fabncs in the fimshmg room. It is so short and fine that it dves the impression of pulverized wool. After the nap on a cloth Eas been /aised by gigging it must be leveled and finished off by shearing The t.f'^^ niachme acts hke a lawn mower in cutting the rai^d nap, and the short wool chpped off by it is known as flocks. Flocks are sometimes made by grinding woolen rags up into a powdered state. Ihey are used m the Mlmg nrocess to give body and weight to cheap fabrics and also for hmng rubber coats and like articles Mate of duty and imports,— The duty on these articles is 10 cents per pound. Mungo Joes not often appear in the import statistics of ttie Umted States. In 1911 the maports under the designation mungo- amounted to 11 079 pounds, valued at $3,454. %is im- ported matenaJ could hardly be what is known generally in the trade as mungo, for its foreign valuation was about 31 cents per pound If any flocks are imported they are included with woolen rags. On account of their low value it is hkely that none are imported. Frodi^io^ of mungo and jlodcs. —Such mungo as is produced in the Umted States is mcluded with shoddy. In fact, shoddy, mungo, and wool extract are all designated in the trade as shoddy. In 1904 the flocks produced m the United States amounted to 697,295 pounds valued at $24,862. This shows the average value of flocks per- pound to be a httle over 3 cents. ^ ^ I BAW MATEIIIAI.S IN WOOL MANTTTACTintES. Materials used hy various hranches of wool mxinufactures, — ^The branches of textile manufacture affected bv the duty on raw material in Schedule K are the worsted industry, tne carded woolen industry, the hosienr and knit-goods industry, the carpet and rug mdustry, the rag and shoddy industry, and the felt-goods industry. The interest of these branches in the various raw materials is not identical. The worsted industry uses more wool than any other branch of wool manu- factures. In 1909, in fact, it used approximately twice as much wool as all the other branches together. The kinds of wool which it uses vary widely. It uses the heavy shrinking territory wools as weH as the Ohio delaines ; it uses the AustraUa merino fleeces as well as the wools from the English breeds. In general, however, the foreign wools which it uses are the crossbred and other comparatively light shrinking wools of class 1 and class 2. It also uses the luster EngEsh wools, mohair, alpaca, and some cotton. As compared with the worsted industry, the amount of wool consumed by the carded woolen industry is inconsiderable. In the making of mie broadcloths and other mgh-class woolens, it uses the heavy shrinking merino fleeces, but practically all class 1 and class 2 wools, except the long luster wools, can be worked in the carded woolen process. This industry more generally than the worsted buys its wool scoured. Of at least equal importance in the raw materials of the carded woolen industrv are the oy-products of the worsted industry and reclaimed wool. The primary material of the carpet industry is the native, class 3, wools, all of which are imported. It also uses a considerable quantity of coarse hair, cotton, ]ute, and other vegetable material. The hosiery and knit-goods industry, while using chiefly cotton, uses also, some wool, shoday, noils, and wool waste. Hair, shoddy, and wool are used in making felt goods. Rags are the chief material of the shoddy industrjr. Effect of fashion on wool manufactures in England. — The worsted and carded woolen branches more directly compete with each other than any other branches. During the last part of the nineteenth century fashion in England began to favor the producer of worsted to the detriment of the producer of woolens. Fine broadcloths were supplanted by fine worsteds, the coarser woolens, such as tweeds ana cheviots, yielded to worsted serges, knitted underclothing made from worsted yarns took the place of flannels. In order to meet this change in fashion some carded-wool manufacturers turned their attention to weaving worsteds and this caused the shipping of worsted yarns into districts formerly noted for their woolens, so that now a district like Leeds is an important worsted producer. The west of England, famous for its broadcloths, has lost ground rapidly within the last few decades. Some manufacturers from that section blame their loss on competition with fine worsteds from the Huddersfield 85 m BEPORT OP TARIFF BOARD OF SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 87 I district. The so-called Colne Valley goods — goods produced from wool wastes, noils, shoddy, and cotton — ^have, however, held their own. Ejfect ofjkshion on wool rrmmrfcLctures in France. — ^The Eapport de la Commission Permanente des Valeurs de Douane pour l^annee 1910, after discussing the prosperous condition in the worsted industry in France during the previous year, goes on to say: The carded-wool spiiininf!^ industry is unfortunately in a very different condition. Its decline corresponds to the progress of the worsted-yam industry. The year 1908 had already proved unfavorable to the carded-wool spinners. In fact, this industry has been suffering for the last two years from the extraordinary vogue of ttie worsted fabrics so well adapted for ladies' tailored costumes. On the other hand, the rise of wool prices has also been detrimental to the carded-wool interests. The wool manu- facturers have been sending to the combers much wool which imder ordinary cir- cumstances would have been carded; then waste and noils as well as shoddy raga have been fetching very high prices, owing to an unusual demand in foreign markets, especially in Russia. ^ Summing up these various causes, the carded-wool spinning industry, with very little demand for its goods during the whole year, has had to purchase its raw mate- rials at very hifjh prices; therefore its condition has been just as poor as that of the worsted-yam spinning was prosperous. While these conaments apply to the conditions for one year only, they show the place wliich fashion and public demand hold in the competition between the woolen and worsted industries. The woolen industry of France is comparatively^ small, but, such as it is, it liaa suffered generally from the competition with the worsted industry. Sedan, like the west of England, once famous for its fine woolens, now holds a humble and unimportant position in the industry of France. Elboeuf and Rheims have also dec lined in competition with Roubaix, and some manufacturers have tried to rescue tneir position by tumiiig their attention from woolens to worsteds. There is also a teclmical reason for the phenomenal advance in the worsted industry. Improvements in combing macliinery, which made possible the use of the snort so-called clothing wools in worsted process. Before these improvements the worsted industry had been confined to a limited supply of raw material — the long luster wools and hairs; after these improvements it was able to use the whole range of wools in the markets of the world and from these wools produce fabrics which competed directly with woolen fabrics. Competition between me woolen and worsted industries in the United States. — ^The change in fashion in favor of worsteds and the great improvements in worsted machinery have also been the chief causes of the decline of the woolen industry and the rapid rise of the worsted industry in the United States. (See Chart 1.) From 1859 to 1869 the value of worsted products increased 496.8 per cent; the value of woolen products increased 151.1 per cent; from 1869 to 1879 the value of worsted products increased 51.9 per cent; the value of woolen products 3.3 per cent; from 1879 to 1889 the value of worsted products increased 136.1 per cent, while the value of woolen products decHned 16.8 per cent; from 1889 to 1899 the value of worsted products increased 51.8 per cent; the value of woolen products, on the contrary, declined 11.3 per cent; from 1899 to 1909 the value of worsted products increased 205.6 per cent; during the same decade the value of woolen goods declined 9.6 per cent, although from 1899 to 1904 there was an mcrease of 20.1 percent, due largely to a revival in the popularity of woolen goods in 1904. The present ^o ip^o i9^o /yo fyo ^ ns 2 o 3 IZS 19^ mo /890 /890 /ol manufactures, — The consump- tion of animal hair of all kinds, including mohair, alpaca, camePs ban-, cow hair, etc., in the United States is presented in Table 55. Table 55. — CorimmptionofaniTrmlhairo/aUUndainthe United States,^ 1899 and 1909. Industry. Worsted Woolen Cttrpet and rug. Felt goods Woof felt hats. m» 18SB Quantity. Potmdi. 7,441,650 17,719,863 5,400,944 8,148,411 142,001 Value. $2,137,222 1,194,812 474,057 242,744 280,134 Quantity. Pounds. 4.504,438 21,034,607 6,189,757 2,819,521 121,482 Value. 11,443,499 1,584,964 649,610 125,803 87,196 Per cent of increase. Quantity. 65.21 •15.76 •12.74 189.00 16.89 Value. 48.06 •24.62 » 13. 78 92.96 221.27 1 Includes small quantities of hatters' fur. •Decrease. Hair used in the woolen and worsted industries in 1899 includes 1,980,820 pounds of camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, valued at $425,669, and in 1909, 4,564,080 pounds of camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, valued at $1,395,331. Monair is also included in the table. The consumption of mohair in the United States has been as follows: In 1899, 3,023,146 pounds, valued at $1,432,028; in 1904, 2,684,573 pounds of domestic mohair, valued at $839,731, and 2,935,623 pounds of foreign fiaohair, valued at $1,077,629; and in 1909, 2,453,984 pounds of domestic mohair, valued at $624,579, and 787,358 pounds of foreign mohair, valued at $379,213. These figures show a decrease between 1904 and 1909, but a shght increase between 1899 and 1909. The largest decrease between 1904 and 1909 was in the consumption of foreign mohair. The hosiery and knit-goods industry also used 191,344 pounds of animal hair, valued at $62,363, in 1909. The remainder and the largest percentage of the hair reported in Table 55 is coarse hair, such as cattle hair. A large part of it is reported in the woolen industry. Practically all of tms nair finds its way ultimately into the carpet industries and Httle, if any, is used in making cloth. The milk which use it make carpet yams, but are reported by the United States Census Bureau with the woolen indus- try. A decUne in the production of ingrain carpets largely explains the decline of 15.76 per cent in quantity and 24.62 per cent in value of animal hair consumed by the woolen mdustr^r. Tne shoddy indus- try also consumed a small amount of animal hair in 1909. It should be noted here that cattle and similar hairs are admitted to the United States free of duty under paragraph 583 of the act of August 5, 1909. Consumption of waste and noils in wool manufacture. — The con- sumption of wool waste and noils in the various branches of wool manufactures is presented in Table 56. Table 56. — Consumption of waste and noils in the United States,^ 1899 and 1909. Industry. Worsted Woolen Hosiery and knit goods Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool felt hats 1909 Quantity. Pounds. 2, 730. 136 23,743,175 8,586,261 2,732,034 4,874,712 1,281,789 Value. 1840,381 6,682,902 2,813,129 513,392 1,220.110 661,178 1899 Quantity. Pounds. 1,941,546 13,772,625 5,408,189 2.325,054 2,653,590 862,982 Value. 1571,350 3,320,019 1,527,764 305,733 552,992 370,792 Per cent of increase. Quantity. 40.62 72.39 58.76 17.50 83.70 48.53 Value. 47.09 101.29 84.13 67.92 120.64 78.31 1 Includes small quantities of waste and noils of camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, and mohair. Noils and waste, reported as consumed by the worsted industry, are consumed by those mills which, although predominantljr worsted, pro- duce some woolen yarns or fabrics. The carded- woolen industry is the chief consumer of these by-products. During the decade the amount it consumed increased 72.39 per cent in quantity and 101.29 per cent in value. Their consumption in the hosiery and knit-goods mdustry increased 58.76 per cent m quantity and 84.13 per cent in value; and in the carpet and rug industry 17.50 per cent m quantity and 67.92 per cent in value; and in the felt industry 83.70 per cent in quantity and 120.64 per cent in value. The shoddy industry also reported 7,567,579 pounds of waste and noils among its materials in 1909, and 4,236,028 pounds in 1899. Effect of the duties on noils and wastes. — ^The 'duties on noils and waste (20 and 30 cents per pound) are similar to all duties on raw and semimanufactured products in that they protect the products of one industry (the worsted industry) and raise the price of raw materials for others. These duties are also intended, indirectly, to protect the wool- grower by preventing the importation of materials that might be used as substitutes for raw wool. The high duties on these raw materials, used chiefly by woolen and knitting mdustries, confines those needing them to the domestic supply, for the importation of them is negUgible. (See pp. 75 and 78.) Consumption of woolen rags in wool manufactures. — The consump- tion of woolen rags in the United States is shown in Table 57. m m 4 1 92 BEPORT OP TAMFF BOAED ON SCHEDXJIiB K. Table 57.— Consumption of woolen rags in the United States, 1899 and 1909. Industry. mm 1890 Quantity. oi. ^j Pounds. ^^^y 64,561,713 w«.,-.„ 38,387:554 527,302 1,115,092 2,014,906 Value, Quantity. Woolen Carpets and rugs. Felt goods Woisted $3,051,045 2,691,458 21,020 67,358 165,506 Pounds. 79,623,312 Value. Per cent of decrease. Quantity. Value. 13,558,706 2,817,663 6,125 60,098 18.92 14.27 4.48 1243.18 114.49 1 Increase. AU the rags ia the above table are domestic, for the imports of raes axe neghgible on account of the high duty of 10 cenS oer nnn^ Tins duty in theory protects the domestic r^ busine^rbut^at p^resei It 13 moperative, rfue to the lai^e export trade in r^ (S^^n s?> ?8 ollfrr ^P*"^ ^ '^^ ^"r^ ^•f"«*'7 decuiSdTring^S LSI 18.92 per cent m quantity and 14.27 per cent in value The vaJueof aho^TrtMiKLtT&f^STs:''^ '^"'^^"'"^^'•''^ "' Industry. Worsted Woolen Hosiery and knit good's Carpets and rugs Felt goods IWO Quantity. Pounds. 1,335,882 20,118,305 7,482,563 824,827 2,536,243 Value. 1899 Quantity. $223,147 2,835,067 919,970 56,345 261,878 Pounds. 1,807,827 31,228,940 3,770,626 744,233 712,373 Value. Per cent of increase. Quantity. Value $303,644 3,767,192 488.792 43,555 80,737 126.11 135.58 98.44 10.83 256.03 126.61 124.74 88.21 29.37 224.36 1 Decrease. iinl H^ If • I'^T ^?^^/^o^^y Purchased by the specified industries me tCZ Tn 1 «a^^^^^ "^^^^ ^^ ^?^^^P' carpet; and felt mills fo^ SVmiif tn' f if ^>^0^ pounds of shoddy, valued at $2,873,886 Almost all of this waa made m woolen mills. In 1909 the wciolen ?«t«7Ti^ ^*''' i^^^ ^^ "^^ 31,021,323 pounds of shodd/f^om SiS ii?r«7fnnn ''^' a ^^e f elt goods^mills also produced fS^ SF ^^ Vj® 875,000 pounds of shoddy. Ihe shoddy purchased by the woolen mills shows a decHne of 35 58 per cent m quantity and 24.74 oer cent in value. For th^Zie period 32 72 n^!^!"^ *^^^^"^^t^*y ot wool in scoured condition useSw^ ^oaH.^n!? f 1 • P! consumption of shoddy in the hosieiy and knit goods and f^t mdustnes however, shows an increase. StaiStff^nx^f ?•'''' '^y--^ sij^ddv consumed in the United btates IS of domestic manufacture. The duty of 25 cents per pound mtended m part to protect the shoddy industiy in the l^iQ i^ates BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 98 and in part to prevent the importation of a material that would com- pete with raw wool, shuts out effectively all importation. It is said m justification of the high duty on shoddy that the exclusion of it from the United States removes the temptation to use the cheap substitutes offered for sale in the markets of the world and encourages the use of new wool. On the other hand, it is claimed that there is not sufficient new wool available to make all the fabrics required for clothing the people and that the wider choice, therefore, the manu- facturer has m buying his wool substitutes, the better grades he will use. Consumption of cotton and cotton yam in wool manufactures. — ^The consumption of cotton and cotton yam in the United States is pre- sented m Table 59. Table 59. — Consumption of cotton and cotton yam in the United States ^ 1899 and 1909. Industry. Worsted Woolen Hosiery and knit goods. Carpets and rags Felt goods , 1909 • 1899 Per cent of increase. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Pounds. 26,503,554 32,689,895 292,403,634 31,313,371 1,638,895 $7,225,423 5,782,171 66,969,258 5,305,896 220,728 Pounds. 18,697,341 56,890,095 181,271,369 21,767,503 1,277,557 $3,556,554 6,537,725 25,766,510 2,874,377 87,340 41.75 142.64 61.31 43.85 28.28 103.16 111.56 121.10 84.59 152.72 1 Decrease. The decHne during the decade in the use of cotton and cotton yam used in the woolen industrjr was 42.54 per cent in quantity and 11.56 per cent in value; the estimated scoured weight of the wool used declined at the same time 32.72 per cent. While the amount of cotton and cotton yam used in the worsted industry increased 41.75 per cent in quantitv and 103.16 per cent in value, the estimated scoured weight of tjae wool used increased 123.13 per cent. From these percentages it is clear that the consumption of cotton and cotton yam m the woolen industry declined faster than the consumption of raw wool and that their consumption by the worsted industry did not increase nearly so fast as the consumption of new wool. The worsted industry buys the greater percentage of its cotton in the form of yam, and the woolen industry buys cotton and cotton yarn about half and half. This accounts for the relatively higher valuation of the cotton and cotton yarn used by the worsted industry. Use of cotton. — Cotton yarn purchased by tne woolen and worsted industries is used almost entirely in making cotton-warp dress goods, the so-called cotton worsteds for men's wear, which generally have the warp of cotton and the filling of worsted, cotton-warp blankets and the like. Raw cotton, used primarily by the woolen industry, is used for making merino or mixed yams from which cotton mixed or union fabiics are made. Cotton in hosiery and Tcnit^oods industry. — The United States census of 1890 wjus the last census which included the hosiery and knit-goods industry under "Wool manufactures." In the census of 1900 it was presented in connection with wool manufactures, but as a separate division of the textile industries. This change was made because of the rapid increase of cotton used in hosiery and knit 94 REPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 95 tHo mo /ggo /g9o /9oo mo to 3o .y J .^1 I I f / U I / t J- ^1 o/ T 300 Z70 ZHO Zto t9o tsozr ar /20 io Co do /ato /^7o feeo isfo i9qo 19 to CHART 2. Chabt 2.— Consumption of cotton and cotton yam in %h» spectfled branciies of wool manufactures, 1860-1910. ffoodfl and there still being a substantial amount of wool used in these 'goods, they could not be included in cotton manufactures. It was therefore thought desirable to discuss these goods in connec- tion with wool, both because wool and wool products are used in them and because knit goods, even when made wholly of cotton, compete directly with woolen goods. Chart 2 presents graphically the cotton and cotton yam used in the various or anches of wool manufactures. It shows a very decided increase in the use of cotton and cotton yarn in hosiery and knit goods since 1890. The increase in the use of cotton and cotton yarn during the decade of 1899-1909, as shown in Table 59, was 61.31 per* cent m quantity and 121.10 per cent in value. In no industry is the competition between wool and cotton more keen than the making of hosiery and knitted goods, and cotton, being cheaper, has rapidly supplanted wool. Cheapness of the product, however^ is not the only reason for the greatly increased use of cotton in hosiery and under- wear. Improvements in heating, and change even in pubHc ideas as to what sort of clothing is necessary, has led to the substitution of the light, nonshrinking hose or undergarment for flannel underclothing or the all-wool hose. This pubHc demand for Hght, knitted garments and hose is the most important cause for the increased consumption of cotton and cotton yarn by the knitting mills. Relative increases in the materials used in wool manufadfwres. — In the discussions of the consumption of the various raw materials used in wool manufactures, absolute increases or decreases have been given primary place, and relative increases have only been mentioned occa- sionally. The increased consumption of cotton and cotton yam in the hosiery and knit-goods industry is not only absolutely larger, but relatively larger than the consumption of wool or wool products; in some cases wool products show a greater per cent of increase dur- ing the decade than cotton or cotton yarn, but those that show greater increase are relatively small in quantity. (See Table 214.) The materials used in the woolen and worsted industries are of great importance to the public. The relative amounts of new wool (esti- mated on the scoured basis), wool waste and noils, shoddy, and cotton and cotton yarn used by tnese industries in 1889, 1899, and 1909 are presented in Table 60. Table 60. — The relative importance of principal materials itsed in the woolen and worsted industries of the United States, 1909, 1899, and 1889. 1909 1899 1889 Per cent of totAl. 1909 1899 1889 Total Pounds. 429,500,930 Pounds. 362,314,908 Pounds. 299,007,616 100.00 100.00 100 00 Wool in scoured condition Wool waste and noils 290,706,970 26,079,691 63,620,820 59,193,449 192,705,519 15,359,021 68,662,932 75,687,436 155,215,840 14,999,813 54,471,228 74,320,735 67.69 6.07 12.46 13.78 64.70 4.36 19.49 21.46 51.91 5 02 Shoddy 1 18.22 24 Aft Cotton and cotton yarn. . . ... 1 Includes shoddy made in mill lor uso therein. 96 BEPOHT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 97 CHART 3. ClUMT 3.— Raw wool, cotton, rags, and shoddy, and wool waste and noils izaed by all the branches of wool nta&unctuies, 1860-191Q. 1 In 1889 the new wool used in the woolen and worsted industries represented 51.91 per cent of the raw materials mentioned in Table 60; in 1899 it represented 54.70 per cent; and in 1909 it had increased to 67.69 per cent. Wool waste and noils represented 5.02 per cent of these raw materials in 1889, 4.36 per cent in 1899, and 6.07 per cent in 1909. Shoddy represented 18.22 per cent of these materials in 1889, 19.49 per cent m 1899, and only 12.46 per cent in 1909. Cotton and cotton ya^^n represented 24.85 per cent of these materials in 1889, 21.45 per cent in 1899, and only 13.78 per cent in 1909. The table shows that cotton, cotton yarn, and shoddy were relatively of less importance as compared witli new wool in producing woolen and worsted clothing in 1909 than in 1889 or 1899. Chief materials consumed in wool manufactures, 1869-1909. — Table 61 presents materials used in wool manufactures, including the hosiery and knit-goods industry, in the United States from 1869 to 190&. Oiart 3 also shows the facts of this table graphically, which relate to raw wool, cotton, shoddy, and wool waste and noils. The tops and yarns reported in the table do not include those made in mills for use therein, out only those purchased. Table 61: — Materials used in wool manufactures in the United States: Worsted and woolen goods, felt goods, carpets and rugs, wool felt hats, hosiery and hiit goods. Census of- Raw wool in condition purchased. Animal hair, hair yam, and nair noils. Cotton nnd cotton yam. Rags and shoddy. Wool waste and noils. Tops. Woolen yam and merino yam. Worsted yam. 1869... Pounds. 219,970,174 296,192,229 372, 797, 413 412,323,430 500,826,711 559,572,498 Pounds. Pounds. 42,526,148 92,315,902 159, 053, 733 279, 903, 8('5 309,109,983 384,549,349 Pounds. 19,574,261 52,163,926 61, 661, 619 75, 267, 134 124,330,950 74,342,664 Pounds. POttTWfo. Pounds. 12, 68.'), 390 14,708,862 31,385,664 47,411,070 49,208,128 39,360,740 Pounds. 1,958,880 1879 8,077,966 27, 425, 689 36, 204, 917 44,650,081 39,354 301 9,436,952 1889... 1899... 1904... iyj9. . . 23,370,056 26,390,993 35,380,247 143, 446; 599 "'5,' 999,180" 10,843,036 20,949,810 28,813,717 40,200,951 51,193,275 80,811,524 32080 oao 1 Contains small amount of hair noils. -H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 7 i t I I PART 1: GLOSSARY ON SCHEDULE K SECTION 2 11 1 i U9 t t 1l Section 2.— PARAGRAPHS RELATING TO MANUFACTURES. THE COMPEXSATORY DUTIES. Nature of compensatory duties. — The compensatory duties appear first in the act of 1909 in the paragraph which provides for the duty on combed wool (375), and they contmue to the end of the schedule. All specific duties, i. e., duties on weight in pargaraph 375 and there- after in Schedule K, are in theory intended simply to compensate the manufacturer for the increased price which he must pay for his raw wool, the increase being measured by the duty on raw wool. These duties, if adjusted perfectly, would put the domestic manufacturer on the same basis as his foreign competitor who has free w^ool. They are intended to be arranged on the basis of the quantity and quality of raw material used by the domestic manufacturer in making the specific goods to which the duty applies and in theory they contain no protection, but all processes and skill are protected by the ad valorem duty which in each paragraph follows the specific duty. Origin of compensatory duties. — Compensatory duties were intro- duced for the first time into legislation relating to wool manufactures in the act of March 2, 1861. In that law wools that competed with American fine wool (Mestiza and Cape wools) were made dutiable at 3 cents per pound. It was assumed that it required 4 pounds of greasy Mestiza wool (a heavy shrinking wool from South America) to make a pound of finished cloth. The compensatory duty, therefore, on w^oolen cloth was fixed at four times 3 cents, or 12 cents per pound. Wlien, in the act of June 30, 1864, the duty on competing foreign wool was fixed at 6 cents per pound, the compensatory duty on cloths was fixed at 24 cents per pound. Compensatory duties in the law of 1867. — In 1866, when the com- mittee of wool manufacturers took up the consideration of the tariff on wool^ manufactures, they had before them the 4 to 1 ratio used already in two laws as a basis for compensatory duties. No elaborate investigation was conducted in order to fincf the average shrinkage of wools, but one test was -made by the committee to determine the amount of tlie heaviest shrinkmg wool then m the American market (Mestiza wool) recjuired to make cassimeres and doesldns. In their report to the United States Revenue Commission, the committee says that they — obtained from the books of the Proctorville Woolen Mill, situated in the State of Vermont, a statement of the semiannual production of cloth, the consumption of wool in making such cloth, and the weight of each yard of cloth manufactured. From this statement it appears that certain lots of cloth made in that mill from the let day of January, 1865, to the last day of Jime, inclusive, to wit, six months, and from the 1st day of July, 1865, to the last day of December, 1865, were manufactured wholly trom Mestiza wool. The accounts of the mill show that there were manufactured in the mill, wholly from Mestiza wool, in the first six months, 77,320 yards of black cafisimeres; that 32.4 ounces of wool, as purchased in the market, were consumed in 101 102 EEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. EEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. II li If the manufacture of each yard of aaid 77,320 yards of cloth, and that the average weight per yard of the cloth was 8.2 ounces; or, m other words, 32.4 ounces of wool were required to make 8.2 ounces of finished cloth. The accounts of the mill show that, in the last six months, there were manufactured, wholly from Mestiza wool, 79,606t yards of black doeskins; that the average weight of said doeskins was 8.2 ounces per yard, and that 31.1 ounces of wool were required to make 8.2 ounces of such cloth. The ratio, then, during the first six months of this test was 32.4 to 8.2; during the second six months 31.1 to 8.2, a ratio which is approxi- mately 4 to 1. The ratio of 4 to 1, still found in several paragraphs of the act of August 5, 1909, is therefore based on the shrinkage of the heaviest shrinking wools in the American market in 1865, and it appears to have been true that these wools shrunk 75 per cent from, greasy weight to finished cloth. In 1866 the manufacturei. asked for a compensatory duty of 53 cents per pound on cloths. (They were given 50 cents m the law of 1867.) Tlxe woolgrowers had Auestel a duty of 10 cents per pound and 10 pe? cent ad valorem on wools valued at 32 cents or less per pound. (In the act of 1867 the duty was 10 cents per pound and 11 per cent ad valorem.) Assuming that Mestiza wools were worth 15 cents per pound, the manufacturers reduced the duty on wools valued at 32 or less cents to a specific basis of llj cents per pound. With tliis as their starting poijit, the compensatory duty was computed as follows: The committee says: To determine the amount of iwmbursing specific duties which the manufacturer diould receive as an equivalent for the proposed increased duty on wool, we must, in the first place, apply the rule adopted in the present and preceding tariff bills, and multiply the proposed duty on the wool, 11| cents, by four, the number of pounds of wool to a pound of fmished cloth, which would ^ive 46 cents. To this should be added the dutiee upon drugs, dj^stuffs, and other imported materials, although these are provided for, in the present tariff (i. e., the act of 1864)imder the ad valorem clause. The duties are estimated, from authentic data, at an average of 2i cents to a pound of cloth, making the whole direct dutv on the raw material 48^ cents. But the manufacturers are subject not only to this dut>' directly, but to charges and ex- penses in consequence of the duty. Six months at least niust ^apse from the time of pajing the duty on the raw material before payment is received for his finished gO({ds. lie is tlierefore entitled to interest for sirraonths upon the whole duty upon the raw material, which at 7 per cent, the averas:e rate of mterest, would be 3J per cent. He is also subject to charges for commissions on sales and guarantees, which commissions are increased in amount in proportion to the amount of the duty. The average rate of these commissions, as determined by reliable statements, is 6i per cent. The two items of interest and commissions on sales and guarantees together amount to 10 per cent which, upon the whole duty, is 4.85 cents, which sura should be added to the direct duty on raw material to fully reimburse him. • The elements of the specific dutiee om woolen cloths and woolens wouid be as follows: Cents. I>utyon4poundsof wool, at 11| cents per pound 46.00 Duty on drugs, dyestiiffs, etc., per iwund. of cloth 2. 50 Total duty on raw material. 4S.m Charges for canying duty, at 10 per cent on same 4 85 Amount of reimbursiBg specific duti« UsS Comfensatory duties in laier a£ts, — In the law of 1883 the compen- satory duty on cloths was reduced from 50 to 35 cents i>er pound. In the laws of 1890, 1897, and 1909, no effoit was made to compensate for anything except the wool used, i. e., the compensation for dnags and for carrying tlie duties was dropped, and phraseology was adopted 103 w| • which showed precisely the basis for the duties. Thus, it was stated in the law of 1890 that the compensatory duty on cloths valued over 40 cents per pound was "four times the duty imposed by this act on a poxmd of unwashed wool of the first class," and tliis phraseology has been followed ever since. Minimum compensatory duties. — ^The compensatory duties are levied on the entire weight of the goods imported. It is evident that if goods contain wool shrinking less than 75 per cent from greasy wool to finished goods, noil, shoddy, wastes, cotton, or other materials on which no compensation or aless compensation is necessary than on the heavy shrinking wools, the compensator}^ duty wiU be more than sufficient to comoensate the domestic manufacturer of goods similar to those imported for the material which he was obliged to use. The law tries to remedv tliis difficulty by a series of minimum compen- satory duties which are adjusted according to the valuation of the goods. The cheaper goods when imported pay a less compensatory duty. Thus in the present law the compensatory rate of duty on cloths valued at 40 cents or less per pound is reduced to three instead of four times the duty on unwashed wool of class 1 ; the compensatory duty on blankets and flannels is two and three times the duty on unwashed wool of class 1, and the duty on cotton- warp dress goods is 7 and 8 instead of 1 1 cents per square yard. There are also minimum duties in the top and 3'^arn paragraphs. These reductions attempt to prevent the compensatory duties from containing more than com- pensation for materials used in the cheaper goo&, but, as will be sho\\Ti in discussiujg the separate paragraph, the object of the reductions has only in part been accomplished. The theory of compensatory duties, — ^For the purpose of discussing generally the compensatory duties it is desirable to refer only to the 4 to 1 ratio, both because it is the most important and because it is the best known. In justification of the present system of duties it is not claimed that it requires 4 pounds of any grade of wool that might be used to make a pound of every finished fabric, but that it requires 4 pounds of exceptionally heavy shrinking wool to make 1 pound of fine cloth. It is argued that in order that the whole range of wools may be open to the American manufacturer he must be compensated for the use of the heaviest shrinking wools and that the range of wools available to the manufacturer is defined by the compensatory duty. Thus, on the 4 to 1 basis, he in theory can use any wools which shrink as high as 75 per cent, from greasy woojj'^ finished goods, but if the ratio were reduced to 2 to 1, wliich would be true for some wools, he would be restricted to wools slirink- mg 50 per cent, from greasy wool to finished product. Further- more, It is said that, unless the domestic manufacturer of the fine cloths, m which the heaviest shrinking wools are used, is given full compensation for all the wool which he must buy, he is at a disad- vantage with liis foreign competitor, who gets these wools free, llie claim is not that the 4 to 1 basis is necessary in all cases, but f ^\i.^.*^?^ry fixes the shrinkage hmit of wools used in this coun- rh ^ l^ theory these contentions are true, they take no account ot tlie fact that the efitort merely to compensate the domestic user of the heaviest shrinking wools gives to the domestic user of the fighter shrinking wools and wool substitutes an additional protection equal lo the excess of the actual over the necessary compensation. This Hi 104 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. |i difficulty is inherent in any compensatory duties based on the greasy weight of wool. They are not only unequal in their opera- tion, but tney can not be otherwise. If all wools shrunk 75 per cent from greasy wool to finished cloth, and if all manufactured products dutiable under the compensatory duties were made of all wool, the basis of 4 to 1 would be a perfect system. But the amount of grease and dirt in wools varies from 10 to 70 per cent, and goods containing shoddv, noils, waste, cotton, and other materials are dutiable under the compensatory provision of Schedule K. The effort to provide by minimum compensatory duties for the presence of wool substitutes in fabrics dutiable under the schedule is only partly successful. The duties on goods of medium and low quality virtually exclude them from the countr}\ In justification of this it is said that to allow these goods to be imj^orted would force the domestic manufacturer to use poorer materials in order to meet the foreign competition. These goods, however, are used by certain classes in the community which can not afford to purchase clothing in which high-classed materials are used, and the domestic manu- facturer must make ^oods to meet the level of this market. He must use the domestic supply of wool substitutes, for the duties on these materials (except on cotton) act to exclude them from the country. The production of goods from these materials is pro- tected by duties wliich secure completely the domestic market to the domestic manufacturer. The compensatory duties may be explained in still another wav: They are the payment of the duty on raw wool imported in the manufactured form. Greasy wool of class 1 pays 11 cents per pound if imported in the condition it was in when it came from the sheep's back; if 4 pounds of this wool is scoured, spun, and woven mto a pound of fabric, this pound when imported pays 44 cents per pound to cover the duty on the wool contained therein. Paragrapli 376.— TOPS. On combed wool or tops, made wholly or in part of wool or camel's hair, valued at not more than twenty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be two and one- fourth times the duty imposed by this schedule on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class; valued, at more than twentv cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and one-third times the duty imposed by this schedule on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class; and in addition thereto, upon all the foregoing, thirty per centum ad valorem. TofS defined. — ^A top is a continuous and comparatively thick strand or rope of combed wool. The wool fibere in the top are parallel and are held together merely by the clinging nature of the wool. The wool when it reaches the comb in the manufacturing process is composed of two parts: {a) The short fiber known as noils, (5) the longer fiber known as top. The combing operation separates these two materials. All foreign material and tangled bits of wool are combed out, and the top emerges from tlie comb perfectly clean and witJi the fibers more or less parallel. Combed wool or top is the first distinct product of the worsted process. In Europe, especially, there are many estab- lislmients which give their whole attention to combing wool either on commission or for sale. Types of cmnhs and process of comhing. — There are four types of combs. The French or Heilmann comb is suitable for combing the • i Illustration -.i— Worsted produrts.—(l) Top or comljed wool; (2) slabbing; (a) worsted roving; (4) worsted yarn; (5) noils; (6) carbonized noils. 1 Nt INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE 104 BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. difFiculty is mherent in any compensator}^ duties based on the greasy weidit of wool. They are not only unequal in their opera- tion, 'but uiey can not be otherwise. If all wools shrunk 75 per cent from greasy wool to finished cloth, and if all manufactured products dutiable under the compensatory duties were made of all wool, the basis of 4 to 1 would be a perfect system. But the amount of grease and dirt in wools varies from 10 to 70 per cent, and goods containing shoddy, noils, waste, cotton, and other materials are dutiable under the compensator}^ provision of Schedule K. The effort to provide by minimum compensatory duties for the presence of wool substitutes in fabrics dutiable under the schedule is only partly successful. The duties on goods of medium and low quality virtually exclude them from the countr}^ In justification of this it is said that to allow these goods to be imjjorted would force the domestic manufacturer to use poorer materials in order to meet the foreign competition. These goods, however, are used by certain classes in the community which can not afford to purchase clothing in which liigli-classed materials are used, and the domestic manu- facturer must make goods to meet the level of tliis market. He must use the domestic supply of wool substitutes, for the duties on these materials (except on cotton) act to exclude them from the countr}^ The production of goods from these materials is pro- tected 'by duties which secure completely the domestic market to the domestic manufacturer. The compensatory duties may be explained in still another wav: They are the payment of the '^duty on raw wool imported in the manufactured form. Greasy wool* of class 1 pays 11 cents per pound if imported in the condition it was in when it came from the sheep's back; if 4 pounds of this wool is scoured, spun, and woven into a pound of fabric, this pound when imported pays 44 cents per pound to cover the duty on the wool contained therein. Paragraph 376.— TOPS. On combed wool or tops, made wholly or iii part of wool or camel's hair, valued at not more than twenty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be two and one- fourth times the duty imposed by this schedule on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class; valued at more than twenty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and one-third times the duty imposed by this schedule on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class; and in addition thereto, upon all the foregoing, thirty per centum ad valorem. Tops defined.— X top is a continuous and comparatively tliick strand or rope of combed wool. The wool fibers in the top are parallel and are held togetlier merely by the clinging nature of the wool. The wool when it roaches the comb in the manufacturing process is €onii)osed of two parts: (a) The short fiber known as noils, (h) the longer fiber known as top. The combing operation separates these two materials. All foreign material and tangled bits of wool are combed out, and the top emerges from the comb perfectly clean and with tlio libers more or less parallel. Combed wool or top is the first distinct product of the woisted process. In Europe, especially, there are many estab- lishments which give their whole attention to combing wool either on commission or for sale. Types of comhs and process of combing. — There are four types of combs. The French or Heilmann comb is suitable for combuig the \ V iLnsritvTKt.v X—Worxlid proilucts.—d) Top or combed wool; (2) slul)biiif,'; (;i) worsted roving; (1) worsted yarn: (.".) noils; (ti; carbonized noils. m « > EEPOET OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 105 i very short wools, especially those from South America. It is used extensively in France and is naming in favor elsewhere for preparing soft yarns for dress goods. The square motion or Holden comb is adapted to wools of medium length, but it has not been widely adopted. The nip or Lister comb is used for combing the long Eng- lish wools, mohair, and alpaca. The most widely used comb, espe- cially in the United States, because of its adaptability to the average wools, is the Noble comb. This comb is composed of three circular combs, two smaller ones revohdng inside the larger and touching it at two points.^ Into the intersection of the circular combs, wliich are all revolvmg in the same direction, the uncombed rope of wool is pressed by means of a brush. As the circles diverge the wool, now embedded in the teeth of the comb, is drawn through the teeth and left protruding from the inside of the large circle and from the out- side of the small circles. The final operation collects these protruding ends and draws them off in a continuous more or less parallel rope or top. The short wool or noO, which is removed from the long fiber, is left in the small circles and from there it is removed by noil knives and falls as waste under the comb. Conditioning of wool. — Wool has a greater affinity for moisture, which it absorbs even from the atmosphere, than any other textile fiber. This fact is an important factor in buying and selHng wool, tops, noils, yarns, and cloth by weight. In such wool centers as Bradford, England, and Koubaix, France, there are official condition- ing houses to which the wool is sent before it is sold. There a sample is taken from the lot of wool and baked bone dry. From this sample the bone-dry weight of the lot is computed and to the bone-dry weight the official regain of moisture is added in order to determine the marketable weight of tlie wool, tops, yarns, etc. The official regains at Bradford, England, are — Ppr cent. Wool 16 Tops, oil-combed 19 Top, dry-combed 18} Noils 14 Yarns 18^^ When, therefore, a lot of oil-combed tops wool is to bo sold in Bradford, it is sent first to the conditioning house; there by actual test the bone-dry weight is computed and to it 19 per cent is added. On this weight the tops are sold or commission charged. The hygi'oscopic test or conditioning of wool products is very important, but up to the present time it has received comparatively little attention in the United States. Classijication and prices of tops. — ^There are no regular quotations of top prices in the United States. Many spinning mflls make their own tops (a condition which is not the rule abroad), and where they do purchase tops it is merely by private agreement. The classification of tops for the purpose of sale is based on the quality of wool from which they were combed. Thus, tops in the United States are designated, for example, as "domestic fine tops," *' domestic "half blood tops," ''domestic three-eighths blood tops," ''domestic quarter blood tops," and "domestic coarse tops." The same classification is followed for tops made from Australian or South Ainerican wool. Regular quotations of top prices are made in cer- tain European centers, especially in Antwerp, Roubaix, and Brad- 1 1 106 BEPORT OF TAEIFP BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD 0:5? SCHEDULE K, 107 ford. In the first two places tops aro bought and sold for future deliTery and the prices are quoted as they are in this country on the grain and cotton exchanges. In England tops are classified both according to the kind and the count of yam winch may be made from them Warp yams, for example, are commonly made from hogg wool (see p. 39). A top quoted as thirty-twos, forties, sixties, etc., will in theory spin to yams of the designated counts. The low quali- ties of tops are designated by the lower counts and the quality increases as the count increases. Top quotations in England.— QuotSLiiom for tops of the specilied qualities are presented m Table 62. It must be borne in mind in consulting these quotations that they are slightly higher than the quotations for the average top of a given quality because the source from wliich the Yorkshire Post and Bradford Chamber of Commerce obtained them produces tops which range in value above the average. Table Q2.— Quotations in England/or igps, [From Ihe report of the Bmdford Chamber of Commercc.l Qnality. 1908 1909 Thirty-twos Thirty-aixes Fort-ks Forty-sixes Filties Fifty-sixes Fifty-eights gixties, sup^T Bixty -fours Sevenlies Eiglities Centaper 7-24. 8 15,2-25.9 l«i2-2t>.9 19.3-28.9 28.4-34.0 31,5-46.6 *4i.'««i.7' 43.6-54.2 47. 7-55. 8 54. 8-<)0. 8 CenU per pound. 20.8-25.4 21.8-26.4 23.8-28.4 2f..^33.0 33.0-41.6 38.0-47.7 44.6-52.7 4f».t>-56.8 49.2-57.8 50. 7-58- 8 58.8-63.9 1910 1911 I (January- November). CenU per pound. 24.8-27.9 25.9-28.9 28.4-^.9 33.5-35.0 39.5-43.6 46. 6-49. 7 50.2-54.8 63.7-^58.3 54. 8-59. 8 57. 8-62. 9 C«. 8-^.9 Cents per pourui. 24.8-27.4 25.4-28.4 25. 4-29. 4 28. 4-:a 4 33.5-;i8.5 39. 5-44. G 42.6-48.7 49.7-^.2 50. 7-55. 8 51.7-57.8 56.8-61.8 t Qaotation=J fir 191 1 from the Wool Record. Tn each ca lirty-sixes, forties, and lurty-iixei were "prepared tops. Tn each case they are for "ookmial tops." Thirty-twos, thirt No hard and fast table of equivalents can be made of the English and American temiinologj- for top (and yam) quahties. 1 hose sug- eested by one manufacturer invariably disagree with tliose suggested ly another. Wool varies so widely in quality, both with tlie local- itv where produced and with the breed and condition of Uie sheep on which otowu, that any comi)arisons of qualities must bo approxi- mations. The follo%dng equivalents, however if taken with the above quahfications will assist in comparing market quotations in the United States with those in Great Britain. If anvthmg, the Englisli equivalents given below are high as compared with the American. Enslish. Sixty-fours to seventies Fifty-eights to si.xties > . . . . Fifty-twos to fifty-sixes. . . Forty-twos to fifties Thirty-sixes to forties American. Fine. I bloocl. I blood. I blood. Common and braid. » sixties to a standard for comparison of market prices. Duties on tops. — Under tlie act of 1897 tops were dutiable under the soHjalled "blanket^' dause (376 of tlie present act), under which they paid the same duty as was levied on finished cloth. In the act of 1909 they were nmde dutiable imder a separate paragraph, and the duties fijced were as follows: Tops valued not more than 20 cents per pound, 24| cents per pound and 30 per cent; tops valued more than 20 cents per pound, 36f cents per poimd and 30 per cent. Twenty cents per pound is substantially a minimum valuation for tops abroad. Only m times of low prices would tops of low quality seU for 20 cents or less. For all practical purposes the minimum compensatory duty of 24f cents per pound is inoperative, and such tops as might be imported pay the higher compensatory duty of S6§ cents per pound. The minimum compensatory duty on tops is based on um tiieory tliat 2 J pounds of greasy wool of class 1 are used in making a pound of top valued at 20 cents or less; the higher com- pensatory duty on the theory that 3i pounds of greasy wool of class 1 are used in making a pound of top valued at over 20 cents. With the duty on greasy wool of class 1 at 1 1 cents the compensatory duties are 24 f and S6§ cents per pound, respectively. A duty of 36f cents per pound would just compensate the domestic comber who uses wools which shrink 70 per cent in grease, noil, and waste, but the worsted comber does not as a rule use the heavy shrinking foreign wools, but the Hght shrinking wools of classes 1 aaid 2. It is larg^y due to the excess of actual over necessary compensation in the rates on tops that the rates on them act to prevent practically all importation. Imports of tops. — ^Under the act of 1894, when tops paid a duty of 20 per cent, there was a reasonable importation. In 1896, when raw wool was free, the imports amounted to 1,147,461 pounds, valued at $438,417. Under the Dingley bill, tops were classed under the so-called "blanket" clause, for wliich the importation was practically nothing — ^in 1900, 858 pounds; in 1905, 1,571 pounds. The com- puted ad valorem rate for these respective amounts was 90.53 and 102.78 per cent. In 1910, under tlie act of 1909, the importation of tops amounted to only 1,868 pounds, valued at S838. The com- puted ad valorem rate of duty was 111.69 per cent. The whole of this amount was valued at over 20 cents per pound. If we subtract the protective ad valorem rate of 30 per cent from the total com- puted ad valorem rate of 111.69 per cent, we find that the compen- satory duty was 81.69 per cent ol the value. In 1911 there was no importation of tops. It is hardly necessary to point out that the domestic comber is freed by the duties from all fomgn competition in the home market. Production of tops. — ^The number of combs in the United States in 1899 was 1,207; in 1904, 1,322; and in 1909, 1,978. In the United Kingdom in 1904 there were 2,924 combs; in 1907, in Germany, 2,119 combs ; and in France there were, in 1909, about 2,000 combs. While the productive capacity is indicated by the above figures, the quan- tity produced is not easily obtained. Abroad, combing is a separate industr}^ Manufacturers have specialized in that alone and now they either comb their own wool or comb other wool on commission, turning oyer to the spinner the top, noils, and -waste. In this country tms condition does not prevail to anything like the degree that it does abroad. Combing and spinnii^, as a rule, are carried on in the same establishments and tops are reduced to yam before they enter the If -SHI IIIBII • 108 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. n^arket. Those tops which are sdd arejhe --^g-^^f- XSf t^^SU t^ST4"d^P i ;ar4 the'ame u.i in which ¥hV;Su^S?St;: foi S^ri ^& states in 1904 and 1909 is presented in Table 63. 1909 1904 Qtiaatity . Value pounds. 11.321.279 $8,027,231 4.772, 5«2 12,855,171 Per cent of increase. 137.22 ISl. 15 Although as ^- W^^V^e Cen-^^^^ 3?.! ?W?oTc£ wa""ln [909 the total ,>roduc£n o wSdVm m the United States --^^.f ^(I^^SleTeTThl worsted n^f ^d y«7„'o9 to Sblf ^^^ ''^ ""^'^^T * tzhS^^''S''Jo:^Z.^'^^'^^ Kps .^ado'in Us for tneir own use. ,i„««.i t^^ qoIp in 1009 was about 71 The average value of tj^P« ^oduc^^ "e x^^^^^ w ^^^ ^ cents per pound. The .™^rease in lue piu r ^^^^ during the five-year period from 1904 to IJUJ was lo/. p wTniiSntitv and 181.15 per cent in value. . "^ C clr^merc. i. ^V^.j'^^^ , j-port« -^^ SS at^id po^sition certain leading countries is shown in 1 able 64. i ne isomi,« i Ke TMted^States should be particularly noted. Ti^BLE 64.-/mport, andexvon* oJloV'Jor leadingcounlTU ^^ m9 and 1010. 1909 Country. Imports. iQuantity. Value. Exports. 1910 Imports. Exports. PoMwto. 253 20 'Uni' ''■'S Unii.-i iv.iigdom . . Germany r'lr>tv^ fj^ty "':::::: '16,877,536 A ustrKi-Hungary 22, 944. 375 Russia... z,iw,wio D(Man. Quantity. Ptmndn. Value. Doter«, 40,67* 20,395,4ior2iU:fc,i;.;'f »i6,l'24k>3,993,3tK) 9.4^j7.669 12,W7.002 1,094,407 Quantity. Pmknis. 1,S0S 3,748 259.040 ..344 \) , *.''0,848' 29,710.161 Value. (Quantity. Value. 45,KJ0,825 615.745 2,UHVl6,235..j.'rf> 138,9l0;24,002,;i02 Dollars. 838 11,' Pounds. Dollars. 42.129.4tM) 121,907, 110 ,6,277.045 3,748 126,103 IC,,4>4,720 10.691,674 26,158,641 2.100 6.S,194 The chief markets for the top of theljut.cl Germany, Italy ^^^^ Japan.^ k ^^^ her exp^Us si ^^ ^^^^ ^ 1,521,500 pounds to Germany ^""^J^W'^^^^^ the Netherlands it lands: but' since t^^.KmHirf^^^^^ '^ ^'' P^^^^ is safe to assume that the g^^^^^^^^l^nty oi ^"P^^ y ^j^^ ^his con- had for its ultimato destmation Germany. li-viaeuLe EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 109 elusion is correct is found in the fact that the direct exports to Germany for each year between 1906 and 1909, inclusive, was over 11,000,000 pounds and in 1906 amounted to 16,605,300 pounds. In 1910 the United Kmgdom exported to Sweden 4,749,300 pounds of tops; to Italy, 3,517,200 pounds of tops, and to Japan, 5,516,800 pounds of tops. Belgium and Germany are France^s chief markets for tops. In 1910 Belgium took from her 30,880,273 pounds and Germany took 13,959,527 pounds. It is probable that some tops sent to Germany by the United Kingdom and France have for their ultimate destination Austria-Hungary, Russia, and Italy. In gen- eral, Table 64 shows that the United Kingdom and France are doing a large part of the combing for the rest of Europe. As far as Germany is concerned, hoAvever, this condition is rapidly coming to an end and she is developing her own combing industry. Paragraph 376.—" BASKET " CLAUSE. Wool and hair which have been advanced in any manner or by any j)roce8s of manu- facture beyond the washed or scoured condition, not specially provided for in thia section, shall be subject to the same duties as are imposed upon manufactures of wool not specially provided for in this section. Chief materials dutiahle under 376. — Paragraph 376 provides that wool and hair advanced in any manner or by any process of manu- facture beyond the washed or scoured condition not specially pro- vided for in other paragraphs in the schedule shall be dutiable at the rates of paragraph 378. Tops were dutiable under this section in the act 01 1897, out are provided for in paragraph 375 of the present act.^ The chief materials dutiable under paragraph 376 are car- bonized wool, carded wool, slubbing, and roving. These are wool advanced beyond the scoured state and not provided for elsewhere in the schedule. Carhonized wool. — Wool which is burry or full of other vegetable mxaterial is sometimes carbonized, i. e., subjected to a bath of sul- phuric or similar acid which reduces the vegetable material to carbon. This process is particularly necessary in case of certain wSouth Ameri- can wool, whicn contains the so-called Mestiza burr. This burr, if left in the wool, will open out into threadlike form on the cards and be carried through all the processes until it shows as a defect in the dyehouse. Carbonized wool can hardly be classed as a manufactured product. Carded wool, — Carded wool is the product of the process which immediately follows scouring and which in the carded woolen industry immediately precedes condensing and in the worsted immediately precedes combing (except where backwashing intervenes). Carding was first done by hand cards covered with nne teeth by means of which the locks of wool were teased out and disentangled. The same result is now produced by machinery. The machine, known as a card, is a series of revolving cylinders covered with a clothing of fine vertical wires. The wool is carried along on certain of these cylinders while others which work into the former catch the locks of wool and disentangle them. As the wool passes through the card it becomes more and more uniform in structure until when it leaves the final cylinder it is in a uniform gauzelike sheet in which the wool fibers cross and recross in every direction. This sheet of wool is then either condensed into one thick strand or into numerous small pithlike strands of wool called carded woolen rovings. In the carded woolen J&..JL\if REPORr OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Ill process these rovings nre taken directly from the caxd to the spinning room. There is here no process corresponding to drawing in the worsted husiness. Process of drawing. — ^The process of drawing is & sort of preliminary spinning. The wool enters the drawing room in the form of the comparatively thick top or strand of combed wool. The purpose of drawing is to reduce this top to a thin sliver or roving so small that it can D3 conveniently spun into a thread. This is accomplished, first, by elongating, and, secondly, by doubling, the former bemg intended to reduce the size of the sliver, the latter to prevent uneven- ness in it. When the wool sliver (in the English drawing system) has imparted to it a slight twist for the purpose of preventing breakage and slipping, it is called a slubbing. Further elongation, doubling, and twisting reduces the slubbing to a worsted roving. Systems of drawing, — There are three distinct systems of drawing, viz: the open drawing, cone draifving, and French drawing. The dis- tinction between open and cone drawing is higliljr technical. In the open drawing system the bobbin is loose on the spindle and the wind- ing of the wool shver onto the bobbin is accxjmplLshed through the lagging of the bobbin. This system, therefore, due to the strain placed on the wool, is adapted only to strong wool. In the cone drawing system, which is adapted to drawing weaker and shorter wools, the spindle is positivelv driven, and this nermits the use of larger bobbins and the speed of the spindle is regulated as the bobbm fills. The cone system is in favor, since it g^ves greater production, both because of the size of the bobbins and because of the greater speed; and since the roving produced by it has less twist, it is there- fore softer. The distinffiiisnmg feature of French drawing is the fact that no twist is imparted to the wool, and by the use of a spme-covered wheel, called the porcupine, the openness of the fiber is preserved dovm to the roving. French drawing is adapted to prq)armg short staple wools for spinning soft dress goods and hosiery yarns. The more generid use of the open and cone drawing in England and of the French drawing in Franco explains to some extent the supremacy of the former in tlie hard-woven goods and the supremacy of the latter in soft dress goods, although both systems are used in both countries. Rate of duty and imports.— The duties as fixed by paraCTaph 376 on carbonized wool, carded wool, slubbing, roving, and similar producta advanced beyond the washed and scoured state and not specifically provided for m other paragraphs are duties of paragraph 378. They are ais follows: Valued nofc more than 40 cents per potind , 33 cents per pound and 50 per cent; valued above 40 and not above 70 cents per pound, 44 centa per pound and 50 per centi valued over 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 55 per cent. These duties are obviously the result of oversight and could not be intended in any logical scheme of tariff rates. They levy on wool products less advanced in manufacturing than yarn the same duties that are levied on finished cloth. If imported they woidd be subject, if valued over 40 cents per pound, firat, to a compensatory duty based on the assumption that four pounds of creasy wool of cLiss 1 were used in tbeir making, and, secondly, to an ad valorem duty of 60 or 55 per cent, the purpose of which is to protect the labor and capital employed in making the most advanced of wool products. It is needless to say that the rates act to prevent all but a very small importation. I* I The total imports under paragraph 376 are presented in Table 65. Table 65. — ImporU of wool and hair advanced in any manner, or by any proems q^ mani^acturey beyond the washed or scoured mndition, not specially jjrovvdedfor. Quantity. Value. TlcTtnue derived. Ad valorem rate of duly (com- puted). Fiscal year ending June 30— 1900 - Fouvdx. 858 1,571 124 $1,056 1,439 291 130 1956 1,479 252 m 90.53 loni; 102.78 IQIQ 86.59 1911 90.00 Paragraph 377.— YABNS. On yams made wholly or in part of wool, valued at not more than thirty cents per pound, the duty per pound sliall be two and one-half times the duty imposed by this section on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto thirty- five per centum ad valorem* valued at more than thirty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and ooe-half times the duty impoeed by this section on one pound of unwashed wool of the j&rst class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Kinds of yam. — Yam may be said to be a fully drawn and twisted roving. In wool manufactures the fundamental distinction between yams is the distinction between worsted yam and woolen yarn. (See illustration 4.) Tlio former is made from wool which has been combed and drawn, and for this reason the fibers m it lie more or less parallel; the latter is made from wool wliich has been carded only, and the fibers of wool therefore are mixed and interlaced indiscrimi- nately. As compared with woolen yam, wliich is rough and shaggy, the worsted yarn is smooth and comparatively strong. Woolen yams have a fullness of appearance and softness of handle wliich do not characterize the woreted yarn. In the distinction between woolen and worsted yams rests the distinction between worsted products and carded woolen products. Thus, worsted yarns are adapted to making smooth-faced, light fabrics, which may be, but wliich are not generally, fulled, wMle woolen yarn is adapted to making rough, heavy, fulled goods. Merino yam is a carded woolen or worsted yarn made m part of cotton. The term '^merino" has no connection whatever with the wool from the sheep of that name. Woolen mule spinrdng. — ^In the carded- woolen process the pithlike roving is taken directly from the condenser, attached to the card, to the spinning **mule.'' The mule consists of a permanent frame on which tlie spools of rovings are placed. To and from this frame runs a carriage containing a series of spindles. The operation of spinning begins with the carriage in contact wth the frame. The roving passes between a pair of rollers and is fastened to one of the spindles. Tlie carriage then begins to move away from the permanent frame and as it docs so the rovmg is fed out. When the carriage has tra- verped about one-third or more of the distance, the rollers stop delivering roving. The carriage moves the remainder of the distance and in doing so draws or drafts and twists the yarn into the required Mze. The snindle draft, as this operation is called, gives the yam a desirable fullness and softness. As the carriage moves back in order to repeat the operation, the finished yarn is wound on bobbins. Hi BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 113 11 ' lllf 1 I 112 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. Worsted mule spinning.— Worsted mule spmnmg is the complement of the French drawing process. (See p. 1 10.). It will be remembered that in that system of drawing no twist is imparted to the rovmg. This roving is dra^vn out into a yam, not by the spindle draft, as in the woolen mule, but between two pairs of roUcrs at the back of tlie mule, the front pair traveling faster than the back roUer. JNo twist \ ^7;;t>. 1 2 IixtTSTRATioN 4.-The basis of the difference ^t^^;^ carded woolon and worsted goods. ( ^ ). Warded vvooUm yarn sbow- ing the indiscrimmato interlacing of the wool fl»erf. v2) worsted yarn showing the fibers more or less paraUel and • the twist is inserted in the yarn untd it has passed the rollers. ,^^1^^/^^! m^^^^^ spiiming has two advantages— firet, short weak wools which could not staf d the strain of frame spinning can be spun mo worsted y^^^^^ and, secondly, the worsted yam nroJucedon ^^^^^^^^^^^ loftiness and softness which, makes it weU adapted to makmg solt dress goods and knitted fabrics. Worsted frame spinning. — There are three other methods for spin- ning worsted yarns, known collectively as frame or English spinning. The operations in frame spinning are, first, the drafting or drawing out the roving to the desired count of yarn. This is accomplished by the use of two sets of rollers, the front traveling faster than the back, and by means of these the parallel fibers of the roving are shpped on each other until the roving is reduced to the yarn size. In the second Elace a twist is imparted to the yarn, and finally it is wound on the obbins. The three methods of frame spinning are the flyer, the cap, and the ring. The flyer frame is comparatively slow of production, but due to tne way in which the wool goes onto the bobbin a peculiar smoothness is imparted to the yarn. This makes it particularly adapted to spinning long luster English wools, hairs, and crossbred wools. In cap spinning the spindle and cap are stationary. A tube on the stationan'' spindle carries the boboin, and the winding of the yarn on the bobbin is only due to its retardation in revolutions while passing around the edge of the stationary cap. The speed to which these tubes can be run on the stationary spindle is very great. For this reason it is popular in the United States, since it gives a large production. It produces, however, because of the great centrifugal force, a rougher yarn. It is best adapted to the finer crossbred and merino yarns. The ring frame is practically universal in the cotton industry, but used to some extent in making softer and smoother worsted yarns than are produced by the cap spindle. Classijlcation of yams. — Yarns are classified according to their size, the units of measure being variously known in the Umted States as '*run," ''cut," and "count." The run is used in the United States (except in and near Philadelphia) to designate the size of woolen yarns; 1,600 yards of 1-run yarn weighs 1 pound, 3,200 yards of 2-run yarn weighs 1 pound, 4,800 yards of 3-run yam weighs 1 pound, etc. The number ojf yards in a pound of woolen yarn is always 1,600 times the number of the run. Obviously, the coarser the yam the lower the number of the mn. A 1 or 2 run yam is coarse and used in overcoatings, blankets, and cotton-warp goods where all the weight is furnished by the filling; 3 J to 4 run yams are medium yams; and 6i to 8 run yarns are fine. In Philadelphia the cut system is used for measuring the size of woolen yams; 300 yards of 1-cut yarn weighs 1 pound; 600 yards of 2-cut yarn weighs 1 pound; 900 yards of 3-cut yarn weighs 1 pound, etc. The number or yards in a pound of woolen yam is always 300 times the number of the cut. It therefore follows that yarns of low cuts are coarser and that the yarn increases in fineness as the cut increases. A 5-cut yarn is coarse; 18 to 21 cut yarn is medium; and 30 to 35 cut yam is fine. The count system is used universally in the United States and the United Kingdom for measuring worsted yarns; 560 yards of No. 1 worsted yarn weighs 1 pound; 32 times 560 yards of No, 32 worsted yarn weighs 1 pound ; 60 times 560 yards of No. 60 worsted yam weighs 1 pound, etc. The low counts of worsted yam are seldom quoted on the market. They are, in fact, roving yams, and when used at all are used in knitting very heavy worsted sweaters. No. 30 (writ- ten 30's> to 40's are comparatively coarse yarns; forties to fifty-sixes are medium; and sixties up as high as one-hundreds are fine yams. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 8 -jcx^'iiiiiiimiiiiiHMiM 114 BEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Sixties is the standard worsted yam and can be made of wool known in the United States as good half-blood wool. Counts above eighties are infrequent. When two sixties yams are twisted together the yam is designated as 2/60's (two-sixties). In the same way there are two-forty-eights, two-eighties, four-fifty-sixes, etc. Worsted yams are sold either by weight or by gross hanks (a hank being 560 yards of yam). Remembering that 1 pound of yarn is equal to 660 yards times the coimt, if we divide the number of hanks (144) by the count of yam, we obtain the number of pounds in the gross. Quotations in England for worsted and hair yams are presented in able 66. All quotations per gross have been reduced to quotations per pound. Tablb 66. —Quotations in England for wonted and hair tfamt, [From report of Bradlord Chamber of Commerce aad the Wool Record.) Quality. Worsteds: Two-thirty-twos, worsted Two-forties, worsted Thirties, super luster Thirties, super demi Thirty-sixes, super demi Thirty-sixes, demi Single sixties, botany Two-forties, botany white Two-forty-eiehts, botany Two-sixties, botany white Ifohairs and alpacas! Two-thirty-twoe, mohair plush Two-thirty-twos, mohair low quality. Two-forties, mohair medium Stagle twenty-eights, alpaca Single twenty-eights, alpaca low 1906 Cts.perU>. 27.1-38.5 32.4-44.6 38.0-48.2 25.4-40.6 33. 5-47. 2 60. .»^73. 5 61.»-76.0 AiHAI di.perlb. 38.6-47.7 38.0-43.1 31.7-41.8 87.3-47.2 64.6-74.8 65.9-76.0 1910 Ch.perlb. 39.5-43.6 48.7-52.7 43. 1-46. 1 41.8-44.4 47.2-50.2 73.6-83.7 71.0-77.1 75.0-«l.l 66.ft-67.9 66.8-58.8 83. 1-85. 2 66.8-59.2 48.5-49.7 1911 (January- November.) Cta.perlb. 37.0-43.8 46.6-52.7 44.4-46.9 89.9-45.0 47.9-51.2 7L 0-76.1 69.0-76.1 77.1-82.1 63.9-66.9 56.8-58.8 86. 2-87. 2 52.1-58.6 43.»-48.5 Duties on yam. — The duties on yarns made wholly or in part of wool are: Valued not more tliaii 30 cento per pound, 27J cento per pound and 35 per cent. Valued more than 30 cento per pound, 38i cento per pound and 40 per cent. Yarns are classified for duty purposes into those valued at 30 cents or less per pound and those valued over 30 cents per pound. Yarns selling m low as 30 cents or less per pound abroad are in practically every case carded woolen yams into the composition of which shoddy, n^ils, waste, and cotton have gone. Any all-wool or all-worsted yam purchased abroad would be dutiable under the higher duty. The specific duties on yams are said simply to compensate the domestic manufacturer for the material which he puts into domestic yarns. It is assumed that in yarn similar to that valued at 30 or less cents abroad the domestic manufacturer will use materials on which he w^ould have to pay duty equal to ''two and on^half times" the duty on greasy class 1 wool, or 27J cents; and that in yarns valued over 30 cents per pound abroad he will have to use materials on which he would have to pay duty equal to "three and one-half times" the duty on class 1 wool, or 38i cents. The ad valorem duties in each case are intended to protect the labor and capital invested in producing yams in the Umted States. ) * n EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 115 Imports of yam, 191 L — ^The imports of yarns of all kinds into the United States for the fiscal year ending Juno 30, 1911, are presented in Table 67. The imports for this year are comparatively small, due to uncertainties in the industry. Table 67 — Imports of yams into the United States during the fiscal year ending June SO, 1911. Made wholly or in part of wool: Valued not more than 30 cents per pound Valued more than 30 cents per pound Total yams. Kate of duty. Cents per •pound. 27J 38^ Perct. 35 40 Quantity. Pounds. 35.75 177,489.73 177,525.48 Value. 18.62 186,645.41 186,654.03 Revenue derived. S12.86 142,991.88 143,004.74 Ad valorem rate (com- puted). 149. 19 76.61 76.61 Yams valued at SO cents or less per pound, — ^As appears in Table 67 (and also in the imports of yarn for 1909 and 19*10) the computed ad valorem rate on yarns imported valued at 30 cents or less per pound is substantially twice the computed ad valorem rate on yarns imported valued over 30 cents per pound. Tliis discrimination against low-grade yarns is due to the fact that the compensatory duties exceed the amount necessary for compensation. If we sub- tract the protective ad valorem rates of 35 and 40 per cent from the computed ad valorem rates, we find that the compensatory duty on low-grade yarns imported in 1911 amounted to 114.19 per cent, while the compensatory duty on yarns imported in 1911 valued over 30 cents per pound was 36.61 per cent. The excess of the actual over necessary compensation is the reason why the importation of yarns valued at 30 cents or less per pound is negligible. A glance at the rates themselves explains the unequal operation of the compensatory duties. The liighest priced yarn that can be imported under the minimum provision of the yarn paragraph is 30 cents per pound. The compensatory rate of 27i cents per pound is 91§ per cent of this maximum value, and would of course be higher on cheaper yarns. In addition to this duty, the cheaper yarns pay an ad valorem rate of 35 per cent of their value. The average value of yarn per pound imported in 1909 was 26 cents; in 1910, 22 cents; and in 1911, 24 cents. Yams valued over 30 cents per pound. — Importation even of yams valued over 30 cents per pound where there is no upward liioit of valuation is also insignificant (359,761 pounds in 1910 and 177,490 pounds in 1911). The amounts are given here, not because they are of much importance to the domestic industry, but to show the restric- tive character of the duties. The yarns imported amount to less than a tenth of 1 per cent of the yarns consumed in this country. Those which are imported are special yarns with a high valuation, and can hardly be said to compete with the domestic product. The aver- age value of yarns valued over 30 cents per pound imported into the United States in 1909 was 82 cents; m 1910, 91 cents: and in 1911, $1.05. If t I 116 EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The compensatory duty on these yarns is based on the assumption that the domestic manufacturer uses 3i pounds of greaser wool of class 1 in making a pound of like yarn, and that the pnce ot im wool is enhanced tlie whole amount of the duty on wool. If all wool shrunk 7 If per cent from greasy wool to yarn, the compen- sation would be perfect, but since the worsted manufacturers use the foreign light-shrinking wools, the compensatory duty even on yarns valued over 30 cents exceeds the compensation actually necessary. The whole duty on yarns valued over 30 cents imported in 1909 was 86.77 per cent of flieir value; in 1910, 82.38 per cent of their value; and in 1911, 76.61 per cent of then- value. But if their value had been the average value of yarns produced m the United States, the computed ad valorem rates would be consid- erably higher. The fact is that the duties on varus virtually ex- clude from the country all but special and very highest-class yarns, and the consumption of these is comparatively limited. Imports of yarns for representative years.— The imports of yarns mU> the United States for certain representative years is shown m Table 68. It must be remembered in consulting this table that all but a small amount of the yarn reported for 1900, 1905, 1910, and 1911 is valued over 30 cents per pound, and that the computed ad valorem rates of duty are measures of the duties on the highest grade of yam, not on yams valued at 30 cents or less per pound. Table 68.— Jmporto of yam entered for conmmptwn into the United Statet, Fiscal yBM andlng June 30— 18961. IflOO.. 1905.. 1910. . 1011.. Qnantlty. Pounds. 1,995,902 172,988 187, 676 359,888 177,525 Value. $1,031,077 115,985 133,721 326,886 186,654 Revenue derived. $397,541 112,887 125,276 269,296 143,005 Ad valorem rate of dutv (computed). 38.56 97.33 93.68 82.38 76.61 1 Under the Wilson blU, when there was no compensatory duty. The imports of yam, by countries, into the United States for repre- sentative years is shown m table 69. Table %^ .—Importa of yams of wool, by countries, entered for immediaU consumption and for warehouse, into the United States. 1806 1900 1905 1909^1 Country of origin. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Belcrium Pounds. 26,380 326,660 478,404 169,685 1,021,570 310 $9,565 137,869 279,735 78,911 544,495 146 Pounds. 8 2,056 147,063 2,830 32,875 430 S4 1,677 102.376 2,368 23,042 221 Pounds. 2,068 13,908- 118, 170 11,828 11, 193 84,694 Pounds. 2 70,965 173, 490 2,723 36,627 686 n 67,295 136,976 2,367 "Franc© Ciermanv Switzerland United Kingdom Other countries 48,388 677 31,633 388 27,659 406 1 Included in "All other xnaaulacturea of" after IflOft. BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 117 SpindUs producing woolen yam, — ^The productive capacity of the important woolen yarn producing countries is shown in Table 70. Table 70. — Number of woolen-producing spindles in specified countries.^ Country. United States United Kingdom. Germany France Belgium Number. 1,785,205 2, 707, 147 1,956.342 684,619 274,210 1 Includes only spindles reported for woolen and worsted mills. Production of woolen yam in the United States. — The census of 1910 reported for the first time the amount of woolen yam made in mills for their own use. Prior to this time we only have a record of woolen yarn made for sale. The woolen yarn reported for 1909 in the two tables which immediately follow represent the productive capacity of the woolen spindles of the United States for that year. Some mills, which are classed as worsted mills because their prod- ucts are primarily worsteds, make some woolen yarn. The carded woolen yarn produced in these mills, including a small amount of worsted mixed yarn not reported separately, is shown in Table 71. Table 71. — Production of woolen yam in worsted mills in the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 1899 Per cent of increase. Made for sale: Woolen yam, all wool- Pounds 6,432,729 12,108,800 3,827,647 13,537,141 10,743,304 1,163,759 3,556,375 $1,052,508 2,537,303 $1,903,639 80 88 Value 100 36 Woolen or worsted yam, nnion or merino — Poimds 10 8S Value 85.81 Made in mill for use therein: Woolen yam, pounds Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, pounds By far the largest percentage of carded woolen yarn produced in the United States is naturally produced in woolen mills. The amount produced in 1899 and 1909 is presented in Table 72. Tabi^e 72. — Production of woolen yam in woolen mills in the United States, 1899 and 1909. Made for sale: Woolen yam, all wool- Pounds Value ...iy.[[""[ [ Woolen or worsted yam , union or merino^ Pounds Value Made in mill for use therein: Woolen yarn, pounds Woolen or worsted yam, union or merino* pounds 1909 22,087,764 $5,396,612 10,183,715 $2,129,087 80,761,458 30,124,141 1899 29,143,476 $5,752,118 13,437,264 $2,764,486 Per cent of decrease. 24 21 6.18 24.21 22.98 118 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOAKD OF gCHEDUIiE K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 119 I The total amount of all-wool woolen yam, produced for sale by the woolen and worsted industries, as shown by Tables 71 and 72, was 28,520,493 pounds in 1909, valued at $7,505,412, as compared with 32,699,851 pounds in 1899, valued at $6,804,626. As will be seen, the average value per pound of this yam is comparatively low, being 26 cents m 1909 and 21 cents in 1899. A large part of it contains cattle and like animal hair and wool substitutes and is produced largely by those mills which spin carpet yams. While no doubt some of these yams produced for sale find their way into cheap cloth, woolen mills, as a rule, do not purchase their yams but make them in the mills where they are woven into fabrics. The total amount of all-wool woolen yam produced in 1909 by woolen and worsted mills for their own use was 91,504,762 pounds. This does not include the woolen and worsted yams made m part of cotton produced m these mills, which in 1909 amounted to 31,287,900 pounc^. Woolen yam produced in United Kingdom, — In 1907 the United Kingdom is reported as producms 62,225,000 pounds of woolen yarn, valued at $11,747,731. All duplications were eliminated from the census of the United Kingdom and, for that reason, this figure is much smaller than the production of her spindles. This figure cor- responds somewhat to woolen yams produced for sale m the industry in the United States, but, as here, so m the United Kingdom, the large percentage of woolen yams are made in woolen mills for their own use and the above figure is only a relatively small part of the produc- tion of woolen spindles in the United Kingdom. Production o^ woolen yam in France,— The production of woolen yam in France is presented in Table 73, on the authority of M. Georg Seydoux, of Paris. Mr. Seydoux kindly furnished these figures to the Tariff Board in August, 1911. They were subsequently pub- lished in the " Rapport de la Commission Permanente des Valeurs de Douane" of France for 1911, which goes far to confirm their value. Table 7Z.— Woolen yams produced in France in 1910. [From M. Oeorg Seydoux, Paris.] Table 74. — Imports and exports of woolen yam for leading countries in 1909 and 1910, Locality. Total Fourmies, Cambresis, Avesnes, Alsne Roubaix, Tourcoing Ardennes Seine-Inferieure, Eure Somme Mame Territoire de Belfort Mazamet Vlenne Chateauroiir Lavelanet Miscellaneous departments Quantity. Pounds. 82,117,000 1. 12, 11, 12, 4, 20, 9, 1. 2, 4, 058,000 346,000 574,000 842,000 302,000 762,000 339,000 494,000 037,000 940,000 485,000 938,000 Value. 129,975,000 371,000 4,323,000 5,373,000 6,183,000 146,000 1,668,000 118,000 4,918,000 2,175,000 1,248,000 1,523,000 1,729,000 Commerce of leading countries in woolen yams, — Table 74 presents the imports and exports of woolen yam for certain leading countries. The large imports of the United Kingdom find their complement in the exports of Belgium. In 1910 the United Kingdom imported from Belgium 15,679,287 pounds of woolen yam. i.'l 1909 1910 Country. Imports. Exports. Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. 1 United States.. Pounds. i 299,254 123,985,703 3,134,500 541,670 208,077 22,266 1,733,036 2,059,381 IS246,339 111,879,214 1,341,844 253,751 82,392 10,509 741,439 1,075,389 Pouni^. Pounds. 1359,888 » 26,540, 953 3, 450, 199 559,968 239, 761 14,991 1,939,607 3,375,805 > 1326,886 « 12,876,506 1,558,424 267,498 98,828 6,913 1,052,713 1,669,403 Pounds. United King- dom 2,488,300 1,078,711 1,409,842 18,337,885 68,784 118,387 $1,155,906 441,014 •550,291 7,235,416 31,492 40,830 4,053,700 940,262 1,030,430 20,954,192 42,328 255,513 11,864,332 381,990 381,947 8,632,782 23,380 92 735 Germany France Belgium Itajy Austria - Hun- ear v Canada > Including small amount of worsted yams. « Not including 626,580 pounds of woolen and worsted yam, not separately itemized, valued at $419,604, used for other purposes than weaving. Spindles producing worsted yam, — ^The productive capacity of im- portant worsted-yam producing countries is shown in Table 75. Table 75. — Number of worsted-prodvxdng spindles in specified countries.^ Country. United States United Kingdom . Germany France Belgium Number. 1,655,400 2,844,412 2,263,364 1,997,196 288,876 I Includes only spindles reported for worsted and woolen mills. Production of worsted yam in the United States, — Prior to the census of 1910 worsted tops and worsted yams produced for sale were re- ported together and worsted yam produced for use in mills where produced was not reported at all. Table 76, however, presents worsted yams and tops produced for sale in 1899 and 1909 and in addition the amount of worsted yams produced in 1909 in worsted mills for their own use. Table 76.- -Productix>n of worsted yam {including some tops made for sale) in the worsted industry of the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 1899 Made for sale: Worsted yam- Pounds 87,900,953 $80,051,612 11,321,279 $8,027,231 76,457,382 Value Worsted tops and Blubbing— Pounds . 141,659,360 $29,358,066 Value Made in mm for use therein: Worsted yam, pounds C) iPoundo. a figures not available. 120 BEPORT OP TABU-F BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 121 ■t I If The average value per pound of worsted yam produced for sale in the worsted industry in 1909, as shown in Table 76, was 91 cents. The total production of worsted yam in 1909, counting both that made for sale and that made in the mills for their own use, was 164,358,335 pounds. Woolen mills also made 3,097,658 pounds of worsted yam for their own use. Worsted yam ^produced in the United Kingdom, — In 1907 the census of the United Kmgdom reported 159,940,000 pounds of worsted yam Sroduced, valued at $78,146,257, which shows an average value of a ttle over 49 cents per pound. This figure is also free from duphca- tions and corresponds somewhat to worsted yam produced for sale in the United States. It does not include yam woven into fabrics where produced. Production of worsted yam in France. — Table 77 presents the pro- duction of worsted yam in France, by Departments, on the authority of M. Georg Seydoux, of Paris. Mr. Seydoux kindly furnished these statistics o! production to the Tariff Board in August, 1911. They were subsequently published in the "Rapport de la Commission Per- manente des Valeurs de Douane" of France for 1911, which goes far to confirm their value. Table 77. — Worsted yams produced in France in 1910, [From M. Oeorg Seydoux, Paris.] Locality. Total Fommfes, Cambresis, Avesoes, Alsne Roubaix Tourcoing Seine-Inferieure Euro, 8omme, Pas de Calais Mame Territoire de Belfort IfisoeHaoeous Departments Quantity. PountU. 110,076,000 Value. $67,455,000 50,276,000 17,012,000 26,223.000 351,000 6,732,000 8,377,000 866,000 1,239,000 30,810,000 10,425,000 16,069,000 215,000 3,513,000 6,134,000 630,000 760,000 Commerce of leading countries in worsted yam. — The imports and exports of worsted yams for certain leading foreign countries are pre- sented in Table 78. The United Kingdom and France are the important exporting countries. Germany is by far the most impor- tant market lor the United Kingdom. France exports worsted yam chiefly to the United Kingdom, Belgium, and Germany. Austria- Hungary, Russia, aad Sweden are Germany's chief markets. The increasiug export of worsted yam from the United Kingdom and France indicates that the countries which were once their markets for fimished cloth are now developing their own weaving industry. ^ L Table 78. Imparts and exports of worsted yams for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Country. Tinports. Exports. Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. .Quantity. Value. United States Pounds. 1299,254 11246,339 Pounds. Pounds. 1359,888 2 378,939 2,-550,722 1,644,808 1,320,114 15,073,512 36,284,850 11326,886 2 308,551 1,457,922 933,297 973,874 9,508,438 17,708,390 Pounds. TTnitpd Kin^doiU . 55,772,866 19,411,062 3,571,249 325,399 3,882,080 17,326,392 12,781 $57,263,298 11,991,363 2, 157, 173 231,150 2,180,363 11,782,904 1736 63,840,000 24,290,283 3,958,930 657,543 3,852,759 21,100,888 $30,006,026 yjanoe 2,737,672 1,733,360 1,303,360 12,280,604 38,788,835 » 14, 038, 707 1,567,363 982,828 969.855 7,419,212 18,004,700 18,568,599 13,503,245 Beleium 2,389,880 Italy 416,901 Austria-Hungary . Geniiany 2,279,123 15,510,698 Russia . » Includes woolen yams. f Not including 626,580 pounds of woolen and worsted yam, not separately itemized, valued at $419,604, used for other purposes than weaving. Mohair, alpaca, and other hair yams. — Yams made from mohair, alpaca, and like hairs are dutiable under paragraph 377. They are not reported separatelv in the imports of the united States. It is more than probable that none are imported, for, due to the light shrinkage of hairs, the compensatory duties are higher than necessary and act to prevent their importation. A small amount of mohair and alpaca yarns are produced m the United States. The census of 1905 reported 1,058,748 pounds of mohair yarn, valued at $820,357, pro- duced for sale. It is probable that in some miUs where hair yams are produced they are made up into dress goods and therefore do not appear in the statistics. The United Kingdom is the most important producer of these, for she holds a preeminent place in the production of dress goods in which hair yarns are used. In 1907 she produced, in addition to the amount woven into fabrics in the mills where pro- duced, 20,316,000 pounds of mohair and alpaca yarns, valuea at $11,494,673. (See prices of hair yarns on p. 114.) Commerce of hading countries in hair yams. — The imports and exports of hair yams for certain leading foreign countries are pre- sented in Table 79. Here again Germany is the most important market for the United Kingdom; the former^s imports are largely the latter's exports. Table 79. — Imports and exports of yams made of mohair, alpaca, and like hair, for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Country. Imports. Exports. Tmi)orts. Exiwrts, Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. United Kingdom. . . Pounds. Pounds. 16,808,800 150,354 1,179 1271,166 120,062 $9,372,086 84,252 320 181,926 12,476 Pounds. Pounds. 17,372,100 115,080 10,992 > 231,483 > 19,400 $10,655,124 64,023 2,957 154,796 10,808 Gennany Belgium 11,434,158 162,371 1 4,198,220 1 1,722,234 $8,348,088 45,010 2,666,788 1,070,554 10,939,005 156. 758 1 4,646,635 2 2,030,657 $8,267,168 42,816 2,934,165 1,135,998 Austria-Hungary. . France 1 Includes a small amount of camel's-hair yam. s Moliair only. 122 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABI> ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 123 if j Paragraph 378.— CLOTHS, KNIT FABRICS, AND UNSPECIFIED MANU- FACTURES OF WOOL. On cloths, knit fabrics, and all manufactures of every description made wholly or in part of wool, not specially provided for in this section, valued at not more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this section on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class; valued at above forty cents per pound and not above seventy cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be four times the duty imposed by this section on one pound of unwasned wool of the first class, and in addition thereto, upon all the foregoing, fifty per centum ad valorem; valued at over seventy cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be four times the duty imposed by this section on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class and fifty-five per centum ad valorem. Manufactures of wool dutiable under paragraph 378 will be consid- ered under four heads: (a) Woolen and worsted cloth, (h) Knit fab- rics, not wearing apparel, (c) Plushes and other pile fabrics, and (d) All other unspecified manufactures made wholly or in part of wool. Parasraph 378 is in many respects the most important paragraph in Scheaule K dealing with manufactures. In the nrst place, it protects a larger amount of capital and labor in the United States than any other paragraph; secondly, the most famihar and extensive applica- tion of the compensatory duties is found in it; and, thirdly, the autiea levied under it are, by virtue of provisions in paragraphs 376, 379, 380, and 381, applicable to certam manufactures under these para- graphs. WOOLEN AND WORSTED CLOTH. Nature of woolen and worsted fabrics. — ^The term cloth is specifically applied to heavy goods made from carded woolen yam butinpara- OTaph 378 it is used in the popular sense of fabric. It covers all fabrics made by interfacing or weaving together yams made wholly or in part of wool or worsted, except those specincally provided for in other paragraphs of the tariff act. These are classified generally as woolen cloths and worsted fabrics. Woolen cloths are made from yam produced by the carded woolen process. They are fulled and shrunk in the finishing room, which obliterates the weave and leaves the surface of the cloth uniformly rough. Typical woolens are broadcloths, beavers, meltons, kerseys, tweeds, cheviots, doeskins, and cassimeres. Worsted fabrics are made from yarn produced by combing, drawing, and frame or French mule spinning. Except when the fabrics are given a rough surface by the process of gigging in the finishing room, these fabrics are smooth and the weave is visible. Clay and unfinished worsteds and serges are typical plain worsteds and, in addition, there are those known as fancies where the pattern is developed by weave and colored yam. These are the most costly to produce. Process of weaning. — ^The yam which mns parallel with the length of a fabric is called the "warp;" the yam which crosses the warp at right angles is called the ' Veft " or ' 'filling." Weaving is the process of interlacing, according to some fixed plan, the warp and filhng yarns. Weaving consists of three distinct operations, shedding, picking, and beating up. Shedding is the dividing of the warp threads so that the filling yam may pass between. Picking is the throwing of the shuttle bearing the filling yarn through the opening made by the shedding motion. Beating up is pressing home into the body of the woven cloth the filling yam, called a pick. The control of the shedding motion determines the particular weave of the cloth and leads into the highly technical subject of designing fabrics. The weave of a fabric is one of its distinguishing features. Weaves are as numerous as the combinations which can be made of warp and weft threads. The most simple is the plain weave, which is the simple interlacing of the weft with every other warp yam. The twin weave is a simple variation from the plain weave. Here the first filling yarn passes over one and under two of the warp threads. The next filhng yarn takes a set obhque to the former by throwing up one of those depressed by the former filling yarns. This form of weaving produces diagonal lines in the cloth. The cassimere or shalloon twill is one of the most useful weaves. In it each warp yam passes over two pick yams and each pick yain flushes two warp yams. It is referred to as the "two up and two down" weave. There are many other weaves used to produce desired effects in fabrics. They vary from the plain weave in simphcity to the weaves of the Jacquard loom in complexity. Duties of woolen and worsted fabrics, — The rates of duty on woolen and worsted fabrics imported into the United States are as follows: Valued not more than 40 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 50 per cent. Valued more than 40 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. Valued above 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 55 per cent. Fabrics valued abroad at 40 cents or less per pound are fabrics in the making of which wool substitutes and cotton have been used. Great quantities of these goods are made abroad, especially in Eng- land, from shoddy, noils, waste, and a small percentage of wool. They are the clothing of the poorer classes. The compensatory rate of 33 cents on these goods assumes that the domestic manufacturer who makes similar goods has the raw material which he uses in each pound of fabric enhanced in price by the tariff 33 cents, i. e., " three times the duty imposed by this section on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class. The compensatory rate of 44 cents on fabrics valued over 40 cents per pound assumes that the domestic manufac- turer of these fabrics has the price of his raw material in each pound of product enhanced in price by the tariff 44 cents, i. e., "four times the duty imposed by this section on 1 pound of unwashed wool of the first class.'' All fabrics valued at 70 cents or less per pound are subject, when imported, to a protective duty of 50 per cent in addi- tion to the compensatory duty; fabrics valued over 70 cents pay a protective duty of 55 per cent — ^larger than the duty on cheaper fabrics, for the reason tnat more labor and capital are expendea in their making. Imports of woolen and worsted clothj 1911. — The imports of woolen and worsted cloth into the United States for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911, are presented in Table 80. ii 124 BEPOBT OF TABIFE BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 126 'i I II » ti I If Table m.— Imports ofcUdhs, woolen or -timsted, into the United States during the fiscal year ending June SO, 1911. Clotbs, woolen or wwsted. Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate (com- puted). Valued not more than 40 cents per pound. Valued more than 40 and not more than 70 cents per pound. Valued above 70 cents per pound. Valued above 70 cents per pound (recim-ocity treaty with Cuba). 33 cents per pound plus 50 per cent. 44 cents per pound plus 50 per cent. 44 cents per pound plus 55 per cent. 44cents per pound plus 56 per cent, minus20 percent. Poufxft. 7,738.75 353,937.80 4,461,846.53 30.00 $2,564.40 211,275.75 5,012,657.92 53.00 13,835.98 261,370.47 4,720,174.60 33.88 149.59 123.71 94.17 63.92 Total cloths, woolen or 4,823.553.08 6,226,561.07 4,985,414.93 95.39 worsted. Duties on fabrics valued at 40 cents or less per pound. — ^The most noticeable fact shown in Table 80 is that the cheaper the goods the higher the duty. The law was framed so that this condition would result, ostensibly in order to prevent the importation of goods made of shoddy and other wool substitutes, it being said that the American people needed protection against these goo(£, and that if they were imported the domestic manufacturer would be forced to use cheaper materials in order to meet foreign competition. In addition to the objection to sumptuary legislation, fabrics made from wool substi- tutes are not necessarily undesirable, as is claimed. They meet a market demand which is fixed by the amount the purchaser is able to pay, and the real question is, not whether they snail be used in the United States, but who shall produce them. It is the excess of actual over necessary compensation on these goods which acts to exclude them from the United States. This is clearly shown if we take the computed ad valorem rates in Table 80 and subtract therefrom the protective ad valorem rates. This shows that in 1911 the compen- satory duty on goods valued at 40 cents or less per pound was 99.59 per cent of their value; on goods valued over 40 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 73.71 per cent of their value; and on goods valued over 70 cents per pound, only 39.17 per cent of their value. The compensatory rate on the cheaper goods is made 33 cents instead of 44 cents in the present law in an effort to adjust the duties to the materials used in these goods. The maximum value of goods dutiable under this provision is 40 cents per pound. It follows, there- fore, that the very least compensatory duty that can be levied must be 82.5 per cent of the value of the goods. The average value per pound of goods valued at 40 cents or less per pound imported in 1910 was 35 cents and in 191 1, 33 cents. Only a negligible quantity of these fabrics are imported. The price of raw materialused oy the domestic manufacturer in one pound of similar goods is by no means enhanced by the tariff 33 cent» over the price paid by his foreign competitor, and in so far as it is not he received additional protection in the so-called compensatory duty. Duties on fabrics valued over Ifi cerds per pound. — The compensatorv duty on fabrics valued over 40 cents per pound is 44 cents per pound. This duty, which is four times the auty on greasy wool of the first class, is based on the theory that four pounds of this wool is used by the domestic manufacturer in every pound of fabric produced which competes with imported fabrics valued over 40 cents per pound, and it also assumes that the price of the wool, because of the tariff, is 1 1 cents higher per pound to the domestic manufacturer than to his foreign competitor. If all wools lost 75 per cent from greasy wool to cloth, this 4 to 1 ratio would be perfect as a basis for compensation, but only in making the best fabrics from heavy-shrinking wools is so much compensation necessary. Cotton mixea woolens, cotton warp worsted, in fact, the majority of woolen and worsted fabrics made in the United States, do not require compensation equal to four times the duty on class 1 wool. The average price per pound of fabrics valued over 40 and not over 70 cents per pound imported in 1910 and 1911 was 60 cents. The average pnce per pound of fabrics valued over 70 cents per pound imported in 1910 was $1.07 and in 1911, $1.12. The only fabrics imported m any quantity into the United States are those valued over 70 cents per pound. There being no maximum value in this class of goods, the best are imported. But even here the whole duty paid in 1911 was 94.92 per cent of the value of the goods imported. Imports of woolen and worsted fabrics for representative years into the United States. — The imports of woolen and worsted cloth into the United States (substantially all of which, except in 1896, under the Wilson bill, was valued over 70 cents per pound) are shown in Table 81. The imports for 1896 are greater because in the act of August 27, 1894, there were no compensatory rates, but only the ad valorem rates were in operation. Table 81* — Imports of woolen and worsted cloth entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). 1896 1 Pounds. 32,257,886 4,860,777 3,630,424 5,897,630 4,823,553 $20,037,898 4,925,345 3,878,802 6, 104, 140 5,226,551 $9,646,354 4,818,040 3,722,067 5,937,754 4,985,415 4R 14 1900 07 82 1905 95 96 1910 07 27 1911 95 39 1 Under the Wilson bill. Imports of cloths, by countries, — The imports of cloths of wool into the United States is shown, by countries, in Table 82. The United Kingdom appears as the leadmg importing country. The average value per pound of her imports is much higher in 1900, 1905, 1910, and 1911 than under the lower duties of 1896. 126 EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 82. — Imports of cloths of wool, by countries, entered for immediate consumption and for warehouse into the United States. Country of origin. AiBtria-Hungary Belgium France Germany United Kingdom. Canada Other countries.. 1896 Quantity. Pound$. 172,650 636,326 640,522 3,033,590 32,249,886 39,176 9,422 Value. tl57,863 547,500 620,220 2,584,464 17,937,401 31,800 7,580 1900 Quantity. Pounds. 62,1Mj1 140,925 142,434 1,082,582 3,481,591 8,404 5,209 Value. $56,898 127,538 190,594 1,080,429 3,660,501 8,053 5,516 1906 Quantity. Pounds. 154,425 213, 117 168,569 1,182,397 2,018,114 7,115 2,960 Value. «135,70S 204,976 212.572 1,129,925 2,282,936 7,857 3,088 Country of origin. Austria-Hungary Belgium France Germany United iCingdom, Canada Other countries.. 1910 1911 Quantity. Value. Pounds. 308,753 633,101 115,406 1,718,263 3,432,399 19,530 5,338 t293,594 624,656 138,272 1,585,997 3,754,961 21,642 6,542 Quantity. Pounds. 171,560 517,616 97,970 1,013,456 2,904.863 17,369 4,545 Value. 1163,329 560,642 136,826 994,671 3,258,426 20,796 7,817 Power looms in leading countries. — ^There are no figures which would show just the per cent of the looms in the woolen and worsted indus- tries of different countries running on the heavier woolens and worsted class, under paragraph 378, as distinguished from the per cent running on dress goods, blankets, etc., dutiable under paragraphs 379, 380, and 381, but the total number of looms in the woolen and worsted industries gives a basis for comparing productive capacity. The number of power looms in the specified countries is given in Table 83. Table 83. — Number of looms in woolen and worsted industries of specified countries. Country. United States United Kingdom.. Oemiany France Number. 72,185 103.082 » 95, 841 «55,000 » Approximately one-fourth of these are hand looms. « Power looms only. Hand looms not reported. Hand looms are still of some importance in parts of France and Germany, but they are declining in competition with power looms and the factory system. Within recent years the improvement in the transmission of electric power has led to the use of this power in the cottages where the looms were formerly propelled by hand. Production of worsted fabrics in the United States. — In 1909 there were 324 establishments, with an aggregate capital of $295,057,923, producing worsted goods. In these establishments the average number of wage earners was 111,248; the wages paid, $47,151,871; the materials used were valued at $207,786,936, and the total value of products was $312,624,663.* > For further particulars of the worsted industry, see p. 219. BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 127 The production of all-worsted fabrics for men's wear in the United States (a small part of which were produced in mills classed as woolen mills) is shown in Table 84. Table 84. — Production of all-worsted fabrics for men''s wear in the United States ^ 1899 and 1909. Worsted coatings, serges, and suitings for men's wear: Square yards Value Worsted overcoatings and cloaldngs for men's and women's wear: Square yards Value 1900 1899 119,655,069 $101,903,153 654, 404 f 821, 688 54,033,679 $43,003,550 877,133 $567,390 Per cent of Increase, 1899-1909. 121. 45 136.96 125.39 44.82 1 Decrease. The figures in Table 84 include fancy worsted, piece-dyed worsteds, staple serges, etc., for men's wear. The production of worsted suit- ings and coatings increased during the decade 121.45 per cent in quantity and 136.96 per cent in value. Heavy worsted goods not as commonly used as woolens for overcoatings and cloakings, show a small production and a decrease during the decade of 25.39 per cent in quantity. The increase of 44.82 per cent in value indicates that such worsted overcoatings and cloakmgs as were made were sold at a higher price than those made 10 years before. The production of cotton-warp worsteds for men's wear is shown in Table 85. The term cassimeres, doeskins, and tweeds are used loosely here by the census; they generally refer only to woolens. Table 85. — Production of worsted-filled woven goods for men^s wear in the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 1899 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. Worsted-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, etc., and other cotton-warp goods for men's wear: Square yards 29,530,236 $15,204,081 12,663,719 $7,267,508 133. 19 Value 109 21 The production of these goods shows a relatively greater increase during the decade than the all-worsted goods, but the quantity pro- duced, although relatively larger in 1909 than in 1899, was in 1909 stiQ only about one-fourth as great as the production of all-worsted goods. The production increased during the decade 133.19 per cent m quantity and 109.21 per cent in value. These cotton worsteds for men's wear are used in making cheap clothing demanded by the same market which uses woolens contaimng reclaimed wool and. wastes. Production of woolen fabrics in the United States.— In 1909 there were m the United States 587 estabhshments with a capital of $120,317,070 producing chiefly carded woolen goods. These estab- lishments employed 62,183 wage earners, used materials valued at 128 BEPOBT OF T.iBIFF BOABD ON SCHEDU1.E K. BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD QN SCHEDULE K. •i««l $65,651,634, and produced products the total value of which was $107,118,858.^ Woolen cloths are made from yarn spun by the carded woolen proc- ess. These yarns are fuller and softer than worsted yarns and produce a fabric which is weaker than a worsted fabric of like weight. Typical woolens are broadcloths, beavers, meltons, tweeds, cassi- meres, and doeskins. A broadcloth is made from fine wool and has a glossy, finished surface. A tweed is a twilled woolen with a rough, unfinished face. The south of Scotland is particularly noted for its Harris tweeds. In the United States the term ^'cassimere" is used to designate almost any woolen cloth and this meaning of the word is used in the United "States census classification. A doeskin is a soft, compact woolen cloth with a highly finished surface. The production of all-wool cloths in the woolen and worsted indus- tries of the United States is shown in Table 86. Table 86. — Prodwction of all-wool cloths for Tnen^s wear in the woolen and worsted industries in the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 1890 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. Wool cloths, etc., for meo's wear: Sauare vards .. - 40.843.979 $29,291,059 14,697,770 $11,230,856 34,298,426 $22,645,869 18.729,194 $16,131,709 19.06 Value . 29.34 Woolen overcoatings, cloakings, kerseys, etc. women's wear: Rniiara vards , for men's and 121.6a Value . 130.38 > Decrease. Table 86 shows that wool cloths for men's wear increased during the decade 19.08 per cent in quantity and 29.34 per cent in value. On the contrary, all-woolen overcoatings, cloakings, and similar heavy fabrics for men's and women's wear declined during the decade 21.52 per cent in quantity and 30.38 per cent in value. The production of cotton-mixed woolen cloths, i. e., goods made from merino yam, in the United States is shown in Table 87. Table KJ .— Production of cotton-mixed woven goods for men's wear in the woolen indus- try of the United StaUs, 1899 and 1909. 1909 1899 Per cent of decrease, 1899-1909. Union tweeds, casslmeree, cheviots, etc., for men's wear: Rniiam viirdii ... 15,381,479 $6,241,809 4,242,245 $2,342,506 29,588,901 $12,815,389 6,675,464 $3,164,749 48.2 Vftltift - ... ...••.... 51.29 Overcoatings and cloaMngs: fin 11 Am vftrdfi - -• 25.25 VaIiia ... ..................•...•------•- 25.98 The production of both the medium-weight and heavy-weight cotton-mixed goods has declined decidedlv during the decade. Union tweeds, cassimeres, and cheviots used for men's wear declined 1 For further particulaia of the woolen industry, see p. 225. 48.2 per cent in quantitv and 51.29 per cent in value, and overcoat- ings and cloakings mad.e from wool and cotton declined 25.25 per cent in quantity and 25.98 per cent in value. In addition to the cotton-mixed goods reported in Table 87, the worsted industry pro- duced 3,658,118 square yards of cotton-mixed woven goods valued at $1,617,890. The production of wool-filled woven goods for men's wear, i. e., goods with cotton warp and wool filling, in the United States is given m Table 88. Table 88.- -Production of wool-filled woven goods for men's wear in the United States, 1899 and 1909. Wool-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeaiJis, tweeds, etc., and other cotton warp goods for men's wear: Square yards Value Wool-filled overcoatings and cloakings: Square yards Value 1909 1899 45,244.866 $12,107,320 1,914,609 $651,795 37,160,449 $11,024,538 3,917,498 $1,430,430 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 21.7$ 9.82 151.13 154.43 1 Decrease. . The production of the medium weight cotton warp wool-filled goods increased during the decade 21.76 per cent in quantity and 9.82 per cent in value. The greater increase in quantity as compared with value indicates that the price per square yard has declined. The production of wool-filled overcoatings and cloakings, on the contrary, declined 51.13 per cent in quantity and 54.43 per cent in value. Production of woolen ana worsted fabrics in the United Kingdom. — The production of woolen and worsted fabrics in the United Kiugdom in 1907 is presented in Table 89. Table 89. — Production of woolen and worsted tissues, excluding dress goods, in the United Kingdom in 1907. Quantity. V^ue. "Woolen tissues (all wool or mixed with other materials, including mixture of woolen and worsted yams): Broad Yards. 143,246.000 40,350,000 51,104,000 7,435,000 $71,819,807 Narrow 8,516,375 Worsted tissues (all wool or mixed with other materials), worsted coatings and trouserings of all kinds: Broad 40. 732.601 Narrow 3,523,346 Commerce of leading countries in woolen and worsted fabrics. — Table 90 presents the imports and exports of woolen and worsted fabrics for certain leading foreign countries. 32080°— U. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 9 It It 1^0 BXPOBT OF TABIFF BOABO ON SCHEDTTLE K. Table 90. — Imports and exports of woolen and worsted ehthy for leading cmmtnes. ti 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 C!ouBtry. Imports. Exports. Imports. Exjwits. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. United States... '4.472,635 »2, 714, 260 15,845,938 %, 946; 826 $4,777,447 1,966,898 5,. 501, 614 4,731,321 W,' 47i i 666 $67 * 050,' 486 110,115,807 11,512,646 '5.897,630 «2, 549, 589 l6,,^'»,327 a9, 752, 743 $6,104,140 1,949,427 5,966,016 6,749,014 United Kingdom PT?inr« n20,960,000 112,793,735 $82,649,663 12,376,125 Canada.... -,..,. I Pounds. » Yards. Germany does not report in her official returns the imports and exports of woolen and worsted fabrics as distinguished from dress foods, and for this reason no figures are given for her in Table 90. Q 1910, however, she imported 5,344,171 pounds of woolen and worsted fabrics, including dress goods, valued at $6,074,950, and exported 55,271,747 pounds of woolen and worsted cloth, including dress goods, valued at $49,888,846. Corresponding figures are slightly lower for 1909. The exports of woolen and worsted fabrics from the United King- dom are so important that they are presented in detail in Table 91. Table 91. — Exports of woolen and worsted cloth (excluding dress goods) from the United Kingdom in 1910. Woolen tissues: Heavy, broad- All wool Mixed with other materials. Heavy, narrow- All wool Mixed with other materials. Light. broad- All wool Mbced with other materials. Light. narrow- All wool. Mixed with other materials. Worsted tissues: Coatings, broad- All wool Mixed with other materials. Coatings, narrow- All wool Mixed witli other materials. Quantity. Yards. 20,978,800 24,199,900 588,300 505,100 11,801,200 23,140,600 5.056,800 9,003,400 16,265,400 8,376,400 500,000 644,500 Total 120,960,000 Value. $26,076,012 12,002,361 476,578 165,680 10,742,599 7,278,075 1,591,282 1,823,706 16,324,509 4,731,625 345,906 192,329 82,649,663 KNIT FABRICS (NOT WEARING APPAREL). Knitted piece goods. — Only knitted piece goods are dutiable under paragraph 378. All knitted wearing apparel, such as hosiery, sweaters, etc., are dutiable under the higher rates of paragraph 382. Knitted piece goods are cut up and shaped into various garments, such as gloves, jackets, sweaters, etc. The difference between the rates of paragraphs 382 and 379 is intended to protect the process of making piece goods into garments. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI.E K. 131 Knitting. — ^As distinguished from weaving, knitting is the forma- tion of a fabric by causing a yarn to make continuously loops with itself. It is accomplished by a series of hooked needles, each pro- vided with a latch device for holding and subsequently releasing the yarn. The yarn is drawn by the needle through the loop made in itself and the moment the new loop is complete the needte is freed. Duties on and imports of knitted fabrics. — The rates of duty on knitted fabrics are the same as those on woolen and worsted cloth, and the explanation on page 123 applies to the former as well as the latter. The rates of duty are presented in Table 92 in connection with the imports of knit fabrics into the United States for the fiscal year ended June 30, 1911. Table 92.— Imports of knit fabrics (not wearing apparel) into the United States for the fiscal year ended June SO, 1911. Rate of duty. Quanti- ties. Values. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate (com- puted). Knit fabrics (not wearing ap- parel): Valued at not more than 40 cents per poimd. Valued at above 40 and not above 70 cents per pound. •Valued at over 70 cents per pound. 33 cents per pound+50 per cent. 44 cent« per pound+50 per cent. 44 cents per pormd+56 per cent. Pownds. 197 1,653 12,813 163 1,060 13,734 196.51 1,257.32 43,050.42 153.19 118.62 e&.09 Total knit fabrics (not 14,363 14,857 14,413.25 »7.01 wearing apparel). Analysis of imports of knit fabrics, ^Tlie same discrimination which we founci against cheaper cloths appears also in Table 92. The dis- crimination is in the compensatory or specific duties. The compensa- tory duty on knit fabrics imported in 1911 valued at 40 cents or less per pound is 103.19 per cent of their value; on knit fabrics valued over 40 and not above 70 cents per pound, 68.62 per cent of their value; and on knit fabrics valued over 70 cents per pound^ only 40.09 per cent of their value. The imports of the best grades of knit fabrics are small and the imports of tho cheapest are negligible. The cheaper kmt fabrics contam cotton, shoddy, noils, and similar wool substi- tutes, and the domestic manufacturer does not need a compensation of 33 cents per pound on goods valued at 40 cents or less per pound or 44 cents per pound on goods valued over 40 and not over 70 cents per pound. Anv fabrics m the making of which 4 or even 3 pounds of greasy wool of class 1 were used would be classed as valued over 70 cents per pound. It is becoming more and more common to mix cotton and wool in knit goods, and in so far as cotton is used the domestic manufacturer gets added protection in the compensatory duties. The average pnce of knit fabrics valued at 40 cents or less per pound imported in 1910 was about 40 cents and in 1911 about 32 cents per pound; the average price of knit fabrics valued over 40 cents and not over 70 cents per pound imported in 1910 was 61 cents and m 1911, 64 cents per pound; the average price of knit fabrics valued over 70 cents per pound hnported in 1910 and 1911 was about 11. lu. I if I H rt 132 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD OK SCHEDULE K. Imports ofJcnitfahricsfor revreserUatwe years.— The imports of kmt fabrics, not wearing apparel, into the United States for certain rep- resentative years is presented in Table 93. Table 93 -Imports of hnU fabrics, not wearing apparel, entered for conmmption into the United States. Qnantlty. Value. Revenne derived. Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). Fiscal vear ending June 30— issmi 1900 1905 1910 1911 Pounds. 1,066,611 5.102 7,705 34,663 14,363 1405,695 6,115 7,864 37,000 14,857 $146,378 6,479 7,714 35,431 14,413 36.06 89.69 98.10 95.76 97.06 1 Under the Wilson bill. Imports of hnit fahncs, hj coun ^^^^^^^^^^^^ cut the loops and leave the pde standmg erect and umform over the ^''mHS'm^^^^ ofplefalHcs.-The rates of d;jty o^^^^^^^^ and nile fabrics are the same as those on page 123 for woolen ana worsted fabrics. Pile fabrics valued at 40 cents or ess Per ^^^^^ pay a duty of 33 cents per pound and 50 per cent ; valued ^lore tjian lo and not more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent; and valued over 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound \ REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 133 and 55 per cent. The imports of pile fabrics in 1911 are presented in Table 95. Table 95.~Imports of plushes and other pile fabrics into the United States for the fiscal year ending June SO, 1911. Plushes and pile fabrics: Valued at above 40 cents and not above 70 cents per pound Valued at over 70 cents per pound Total plushes, etc Quantity. Pounds. 2.790 10,227 Value. 11,698 10,011 Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). f2,07G.f)0 10,005.93 122.30 99.95 13,017 11,709 I 12,082.53 103.19 No imports of plushes and other pile fabrics valued at 40 cents or less per pound are reported for 1911; nor are any reported in 1909 and 1910. Pile fabrics, even when made entirely of wool or hair, are made from the light-shrinking wools, mohair, camel's hair, and the like, and seldom would the domestic manufacturer of like fabrics need a compensatory duty e^nsl to four times the duty on greasy wool of class 1. And, of course, in so far as he uses cotton or other textile • ? ^^ ^^^® ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ products, he receives extra protection m the compensatorv duties against the importation of like goods. The compensatory duty on pile fabrics valued over 40 and not over 70 cents per pound was, in 1911, 72.3 per cent of then- value, and on pile fabrics valued over 70 cents per pound, 44.95 per cent of their value. In each case the compensatory duty is 44 cents per pound, but, due to variations in materials used, operates unequally. The average price of pile fabrics valued over 40 cents and not over 70 cents per pound imported into the United States in 1910 and 1911 was 60 cents per pound; the average price of those valued over 70 cents per pound imported in 1910 was $1.06; and in 1911, 98 cents per pound. ^ Imports of pile fabrics for representative years.— The unports of plushes and other pile fabrics into the United States for certain rep- resentative years is presented in Table 96. Table 9Q.— Imports of plushes and other pile fabrics entered for consumption into the United States. Quantity. Fiscal year ending June 30— 189G 1 . ^^ 1900 1905 1910 1911 Pounds. 118,821 15,105 10,641 18,421 13,017 Value. $128,637 18,651 14.354 16,726 11,709 Revenue derived. $G4,312 16,882 12,555 17,118 12,083 Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). 49.99 90.52 87.46 102.34 103.19 » Under the WUson bill. II I ! 134 MBPOBT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K* BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 135 Commerce of leading countries in pUe fabrics. — The imports and exports of plushes and pUe fabrics of wool for certain leadmg foreign countries are presented in Table 97. Table 97.— Imports and exports of plushes and pile fabrics for leading countries in 1909 and 19107 1909 1910 Country. Imports. Exports. Imports. • Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. United States J 37, 488 136,217 U8,421 f 16, 726 '*8 302 ,'766' 13,063,953 137,037 «40:i,900 » 2, 640. 890 121,820 $342,465 2,032,996 26,930 S356,554 Gcrmanv » 42, 328 > 318, 124 34,272 466,969 » 30,203 1323,635 24,752 357,605 2,316,216 Austria-Hungary . . 30,604 1 Pounds. 'Yards. ALL OTHER MANUFACTURES OP WOOL (N. S. P. F.). Typical articles dutiable under this provision, — A heterogeneous col- lection of articles is dutiable under paragraph 378 under the blanket provision "All manufactures of every description, made whoUy or in part of wool, not specially provided for in this section." These articles are generally in chief value of wool, but they may be m weight chiefly of other materials. Some of the articles which havepaid duty under this provision are: Portieres; press cloth made of animal hau-; endless belts and machine blankets; antique tapestries; bareges; fancy baskets composed of ^\^llow. metal, and wool; bombazines; card cloth; caslmiere cloth for making shawls; cattle hau- fabncs- chak seating composed of woven bamboo seating hned with wool and jute cloth stuffed with straw; cotton quilts, with wool fringe; cottonettes of wool and cotton, cotton principally m quantity, wool in value; dolls' wigs of goat hair attached to a cotton foundation; dusters composed of wooden handles to which are attached strips of woolen cloth commonly known as list; furniture of wood and wool tapestiT, wool chief value; hat crowns of wool and silk; lap robes; musical instrument key pads of leather, cotton, and woolen fabrics, wool cliief value; ornaments composed of bisque dolls, heads glued to disks of pasteboard covered with several layers of woolen cloth, com- mercially known as penwipers, although not designated for actual use as such; painter^s tapestry or canvas; penwipers composed of wool and metal; powder pads or puffs, consisting of fiat cu-cular pieces of a woolen fabric used for applying face powder; scapulanes of wool and cotton, with rehgious emblems prmted thereon; traveling ru^ and upholstering goods of wool, silk, and cotton, wool chief value. , rw« . . Imports under tie ''Uanlcet'' provision of 378, %n 1911. —The imports of unspecified manufactures of wool into the United States for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911, are shown in Table 98. f Table 98. — Imports of unspecified manufactures of wool into the United States for the fiscal year ending June SO, 1911. All other manufactures wholly or in part of wool: . Valued at not more than 40 cents per pound. . Valued at above 40 cents and not above 70 cents per pound Valued at over 70 cents per pound Quantity. 6,167.50 98,586.00 192,424.32 Value. $1,886.70 49,569.00 285,449.99 Revenue derived. $2,978.63 68,162.34 241,664.39 Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). 157.88 137.51 84.66 Imports analyzed. — It is not possible to say just what articles are included in the imports of Table 98, bu*t they are made up of articles similar to those enumerated in the paragraph immediately preceding the table. In general, they are made in part of materials other than wool, and, while wool may be chief in value, the other mate- rials are often chief in weight. The compensatory duties are levied on the entire weight of these articles, regardless of the per cent of wool. We therefore find rubber, iron, wood, cow's hair, and other materials paying a duty when imported in connection with wool, wliich compensates the domestic manufacturer of like articles on the theory that 4 pounds of wool was used in making every pound of these articles. If, for example, a chair is imported whose uphol- stering of wool is the most valuable part of the chair, but whos6 chief weight is made up of wood and fiUing, the whole chair, if valued over 40 cents per pound, pays a duty of 44 cents per pound on its whole weight m addition to the ad valorem duty. Or, to take another example, cattle-hair fabrics pay the compensatory duty, but cattle hair is on the free list, and it would seem that the manufacturer of them in the United States needs no compensation whatever. Table 98 shows that the compensatory duty (excluding the ad valorem duty of 50 per cent) on unspecified manufactures of wool valued at 40 cents or less per pound in 1911 was 107.88 per cent of their value; on those valued over 40 and not over 70 cents per pound, 87.51 per cent of their value; and on those valued over 70 cents per pound, 29.66 per cent of their value. Imports of unspecified manufactures of wool for representative years. — Imports of unspecified manufactures, made wholly or in part of wool, into the United States for certain representative years is presented in Table 99. Table 99. — Imports of unspecified manufactures, wholly or in part of wool, entered for consumption into the United States. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). Fiscal year ending June 30— 1900 Pounds. 297,927 230, 102 362,947 297,190 $273,946 298,423 393, *11 336,930 $268,933 259,393 371, 761 312,820 98 17 1905 86 92 1910 94 51 1911 92.84 BEPOBT OF TAKIFP BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. Production of carridae doihs and robes, — It is not possible in many cases to give the production in this country of articles enumerated under the *' blanket" provision of paragraph 378. They can be given, however, for carnage robes and cloths, and the production of these in the United States is presented in Table 100 : Table 100. -Prodwction of all-wool and cotton-warp carriage robes and clolhs in the United States, 1899 and 1909. All-wool carriage cloths: Square yards Value Cotton-warp carriage robes: Square yards I Value.. 1900 1899 1,246,423 $623,981 2,882,171 $1,376,595 1,220,408 $696,999 1.250,233 1815,233 Per cent of increase. 2.13 U0.4& 130.53 t8.86 > Decrease. Commerce in wool upJiolstering goods. — The imports and exports of wool upholstering goods for certain leading foreign countries is presented m Table 101 : Table 101. — Imports and exports of upholstering fabrics and similar goods for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Country Imports. Exports. Imports. Exports. Qnantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Qimntity. Value. TTnited KinErdoin..... Pounds. Pounds. 133,100 1,023,156 1,044,099 $83,825 724,472 1,301,216 Pounds. Pounds. 197,600 1,194,011 847,669 441 $144,559 Oemiany 173, 502 10,803 441 $159,23 10,638 371 224,208 16,755 220 $236,672 16,598 185 774,214 France 894, ie» Itaiv 371 Faragrapli 370.— BLANKETS AND FLANNEL FOB UNDERWEAR. On blankets, and flannels for underwear composed wholly or in part of wool, valued at not more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound i^half be the same as the duty imposed by tliis section on two pounds of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto thirty per centum ad valorem; valued at more than forty cents and not more than fifty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this section on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto thirty-five per centum ad valorem. On blankets composed wholly or in part of wool, valued at more than fifty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this section on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Flannels composed wholly or in part of wool, valued at above fifty cents per pound, shall be classified and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of similar character and description provided by this sec- tion: Provided, That on blankets over three yards in length the same duties shall be paid as on cloths. Paragraph 379 provides import duties on bed blankets, horse blan- kets, and similar heavy fabrics made wholly or in part of wool, and on flannels for underwear. Flannels for outer garments are dutiable as dress goods under paragraphs 380 and 381. f ^ i EEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUliE K. BLANKETS. 137 Blankets defined. — A blanket is a heavy, woven fabric made of carded woolen yarn and shrunk or fulled until the weave structure is obhterated. Onlv the very best blankets are made entirely of new wool. Shoddy, noils, wool waste, cotton, and other wool substitutes are extensively used. It is a marvel to the uninitiated the shortness and poorness of wastes and shoddy that can be spun into a yam and finally put into a cotton-warp blanket. The poorest wool sub- stitutes are put into horse blankets and hospital blankets which must be burned after the recovery or death of the patient. When a blanket comes off the loom, it is very unsightly. It may be said to be ''made'' in the finishing process, the chief operation of which is fulling. Fulluig felts and shrmlis the fabric, giving it more thick- ness and more weight to a given area. Three things are necessary in fulling — ^heat, moisture, and pressure. The moisture is applied in the form of soap and water and pressure by means of heavy rollers or a huge hammer which falls on the fabric or by boards pressing laterally or lineally on the fabric. The process bursts the original yams and destroys the weave structure. Rates of duty on Uankets. — Blankets 3 yards or less in length, when imported into the United States, are subject to the following rates of duty: Valued not more than 40 cents per pound, 22 cents per pound and 30 per cent; valued more than 40 and not more than 50 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent; valued at more than 50 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent. The reduction of the compensatory duties as it appears in these rates is a recognition of the fact that wool substitutes are used exten- sively in blankets, especially in those of the lower grade. By these duties the domestic manufacturer of blankets similar to those valued abroad at 40 cents or less per pound, is compensated on the assump- tion that the raw material used in his product is advanced in price by the tariff 22 cents per pound ; i. e., the duty on " 2 pounds of wool of the first class." The compensation given to the domestic manufacturer who makes blankets similar to those valued abroad at over 40 cents per pound assumes that he is forced by the tariff to pay 33 cents more for the raw material used in 1 pound of blanket than his foreign com- petitor. The assumptions on which these duties are based may or may not be true, dependmg on the nature and condition of the material chosen by the domestic manufacturer. In addition to the compen- satory duties on blankets, the ad valorem duties of 30, 35, and 40 per cent are levied on the different grades of blankets. A higher per- centage of protection is given to the better blankets because more labor and capital are employed in their production. Blariket w'oviso.— In order to prevent heavy, felted, woolen cloth, Au ^^^^^ ^® classed as blanket material, but be used for overcoats and heavy clothing, from being imported at the relatively low rates assessed on blankets, a proviso is mtroduced into the paragraph as cl^* °^ blankela over 8 yaids in length [the same [duties [shall be paid as on c '^l^ proviso first appeared in the act of 1894. Three yards was saia t^ be the standard length of a blanket and the proviso was in- tended to prevent importers from taking advantage of the lower Xuo EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAKB ON SCHEDUIiE K* KBPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 13d 1 ll m blanket rates for the purpose of getting lieavy woolen cloth into the United States. The proviso makes the higher rates of paragraph 378 applicable to blankets over 3 yards in length. These rates are as follows: Valued not more than 40 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 50 per cent: valued more than 40 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent; valued more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 55 per cent. The theory of these duties was explained on page 123. The specific duties of 33 and 44 cents per pound in theory put the domestic manufacturer on the same basis as his foreign competitor who has free wool, and the ad valorem duties of 50 and 55 per cent protect American capital and labor against competition from abroad. Imports of blankets into the United States,— Table 102 ffives in detail the blankets imported into the United States during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911. The effect of the proviso on the com- puted ad valorem rate of duty should be particularly noted. Table 102.— Imports of blankets irUo the United States Jor the fiscal year ending June Rate of duty. Quanti- ties. Values. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rata (com- puted). Blankets: Valued at not more than 40 cents per poiiiid. Valued at more than 40 and not more than 60 cents per pound. Valued at more than 50 cents per pound. Valued at more than fiO cents per pound (reciprocity treaty with Cuha). More than 3 yards in length— Valued at not more than 40 cents per pounds Valued at above 40 and not above 70 cents per pound. Valued at over 70 cents per pound. 22 cents per pound plus 30 per cent. 33 cents per pound plus 35 per cent. 33 cents per pound plus 40 per cent. 33 cents per pound plus 40 per cent minus 20 per cent. 33 cents per poimd plus 60 per cent. 44 cents per pound pltis 50 per cent. 44 cents per pound plus 55 per cent. 1,561.50 1,096.49 38,711.60 8.00 664.50 4,479.13 5,897.59 $523.00 800.30 40,220.23 0.00 185.00 2,630.00 6,459.00 S500.43 839.98 31,267.71 4.99 311.79 3,285.83 5,597.39 05.68 104.95 67.64 65. 4« 1G8.54 124.04 102.54 Tntal blAiikets .... 63,024.90 65,832.53 41,806.12 74.88 BlankeU 3 yards or less in len^th.—The compensatory duty of 22 cents per pound on blankets 3 yards or less m length and valued at 40 cents or less per pound was in 1911 equal to 65.68 per cent of the value of the blankets imported; the compensatory duty of 33 cents on hke blankets valued over 40 and not over 50 cents per pound was in 1911 equal to 69.95 per cent of the value of blankets imported; and the compensatory duty on this class of blankets valued over 50 cents per pound was in 1911 equal to 27.64 per cent of the value of the blankets imported. It appears from these percentages that in spite of the reduction of the compensatory duties to the 2 to 1 and 3 to 1 instead of the 4 to 1 basis, they still bear most heavily on the cheaper blankets. The importation of blankets 3 yards and less in length and valued at 50 cents or less is negligible, and this is due to the fact that the law in its effort to compensate the domestic manufacturer for materials used on which he had to pay duty, gives him added protection equal to the excess of actual over necessary oompensation. The average value of blankets 3 yards or less in length and valued at 40 cents or less per pound imported in 1911 was 33 cents (in 1910, 35 cents) ; of those valued over 40 and not over 50 cents per pound, 47 cents (in 1910, 47 cents); and of those valued over 50 cents per Eound, $1.19 (in 1910, $1.17). The higher valuation per pound on lankets valued over 50 cents per pound explains why the specific duty of 33 cents per pound bears so lightly on these goods as com- pared with cheaper goods. Blankets more than 3 yards in lejigth,. — The excess of actual com- pensation over necessary compensation is more marked on blankets over 3 yards in length than on those 3 yards or less in len^h. Wliile these blankets may be made of the same material and in the same manner as the shorter blankets, the proviso makes them dutiable at the rates of cloths. Under these duties they pay compensatory duties based on the theory that 3 or 4 pounds of greasy wool of class 1 are used in their making. Here, the compensatory duty on blankets valued at 40 cents or less per pound in 1911 was 118.54 per cent of the value of those imported; on those valued over 40 and not over 70 cents per pound, 74.94 per cent of the value of those imported; and on those valued over 70 cents per pound, 47,54 per cent of the value of those imported in 1911. It is needless to point out that the addition to these duties of 50 or 55 Eer cent according to the classification makes the importation of lankets over 3 yards in length next to impossible. The average value of the 664^ pounds of these blankets valued at 40 cents or less per pound imported in 1911 was 28 cents per pound (38 cents in 1910) ; the average value of the 4,479 pounds of these blankets valued #ver 40 and not over 70 cents per pound imported in 1911 was 60 cents per pound (60 cents in 1910); the average value of the 5,898 pounds of these blankets valued over 70 cents per pound imported m 1911 was 93 cents per pound ($1 in 1910). From the above analysis of the rates on blankets, several things are evident. In the first place, the rates on cheap blankets are higher than on the better grades of blankets. Secondly, these rates are not apparently higher but are higher because the compensatory duties more than cover the compensation due the domestic manufacturer of cheap blankets for the enhancement in price in his raw materiaL As a matter of fact, the specific duty on blankets in excess of neces- sary compensation acts to exclude substantially all importation of cheap blankets made from reclaimed wool or other wool substitutes. Imports of blankets into the United States for representative years. — Table 103 presents the total importation of blankets into the IJnited States for certain representative years. It should be noted before examining this table that the average computed ad valorem rates of duty indicated are not a fair average of the duties on the various classes of blankets. By examining Table 102 it will be seen that only the very highest grades of blankets are imported in any quantity, f^^ *^^^® lact that the compensatory duties bear more lightly on these than on the cheaper grades. Hence, when the importations of all classes are added together, the liigher ad valorem rates on the cheaper grades are obHterated in the Tower ad valorem rates of the more valuable grades. Those wishing to see the effect of the duty on the vanous grades of blankets must consult Table 102. Ill^lll ll^llj ^11 '*! 140 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD OJT SCHBDHLE IR. Table im,— Imports of hUnkeU entered for consumption into the United States. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHM)ULE K. 141 liacal year ending June SO— 18961 1900.. 1905 1910 1911 Quantity Pounds. 172,901 45,688 35,336 43,113 53,025 160,975 27,967 29,770 45,995 56,833 Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (computed), $18,144 26,800 26,234 33,768 41,806 I 29.78 05.86 88.12 73.42 74.88 1 Under the Wilson bill. Exports of UanTceU and flannels, hy countries —The mP^^ts of blanfetrby countries axe not reportea separately m Commerce and Zt^loZi the United States The export ^g-^^^^^o^^^^^^ flannels for underwear are classified together. J^^ f ^^7 T? v^^^^^ articles bv countries of destination are given in Tab e 104. It should fe Se^i^ stu^^^ this table that the chief markets of the United sL?es are her^^^^^ and the countries of the Western ^em^^^^^^^ but the exports even to these became so smaU m 1911 that they were included in "AE other manufactures. Table m.-Exports of blankets and flannels of domestic manufacture, hy countries, xjLox^is. f J ^^^^ ^^^ United States. _^_^__ Country of destination. United Kingdom Canada Nicaragua — Mexico Cuba. Cbile China Brazil Colombia Venezuela Alaska Iq96 Hawaii ■-- Philippine Islands.. Porto Rico other countries 11,188 8.W7 324 3,139 60 ""265" 1,300 1,846 1,607 'i6,"6ii 1900 8,078 $44, 176 55,846 96 1,601 2,284 368 1,761 "16*921 1905 17,410 f 1.280 6,003 20 935 1,325 45,258 15,905 160 3,643 160 20,035 7,612 60 21,615 6,817 19101 SI, 397 6,452 2.495 2,509 2,318 23,967 9,899 486 114 791 36,179 14,494 12,114 556 6,489 I Included in " All other manulactures of" alter 1910. Production of lUnlcets in fie United ^^^""f^]^^^^ tinctlv a product of the carded woolen branch of wool manufactures. Thf prXction of them in the United States is shown m Table 105. Table 105 -Production of blankets in the woolen industry of the United StaUs, 1899 and 1909. AU-wool blankets: Square yards Value Cotton mixed blankets: Square yards Value CSotton warp blankets: Square yards Value Cotton warp horse blankets: Square yards Value 4,402,330 $2,563,019 1,717,758 $650,714 8,903,680 $2,505,409 4,197,932 $1,674,509 5.266,643 $2,274,774 1,530,696 $561,649 11,107,104 $2,241,342 6,702,315 $1,252,824 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 116.41 12.67 12.22 15.86 119.81 1L78 126.38 33.66 1 Decrease. During the decade from 1899 to 1909 the production of all-wool blankets declined in quantity 16.41 per cent, but increased in value 12.67 per cent. Cotton mixed blankets, i. e., blankets made from merino yam, increased in quantity during the decade 12.22 per cent and in value 15.86 per cent. Cotton warp blankets dechned in pro- duction during the decade 19.84 per cent and increased, on the con- trary, in value 11.78 per cent. Cotton warj) horse blankets dechned in quantity 26.38 per cent, but increased in value 33.66 per cent. This decrease in quantity is no doubt in part due to the extensive use of the automobile. In general. Table 105 shows that while the num- ber of square yards of blankets produced dechned during the decade, there was a general increase in the price per square yard of those that were produced. This increase in price, however, does not necessarily mean that the quality of the blankets improved; it may merely mean that there was a general rise in price, and due to this rise in price there was a falling off in consumption. Production of blankets in the United Kingdom, — In 1907 there were produced in the United Kingdom 3,115,000 pairs of blankets, valued at $7,056,425. The cliief center of production of these blankets is near Dewsbury, and Batley, in the Colne Valley, which is the center of shoddy production. Commerce of leading countries in blankets, — ^Table 106 shows the imports and exports of certain leading foreign countries in blankets and traveling rugs. Traveling rugs are included here because they are so classified in the statistics of certain foreign countries. Table 106. — Imports and exports of blankets and traveling rugs for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Country. Imports. Exports. Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value United States Pounds. 28,864 I $25, 928 Pounds. 1 $49,351 1,353,125 747,752 114,746 Pounds. 43,113 < 125, 637 22,701 26,455 73,791 $45,995 76,253 15,054 12,506 6 31,458 Pounds. $69,031 2,170,435 855,762 132,255 United Kingdom*. . . 8 648,888 1,725,540 242,726 •962,824 2,102,307 279,764 France. ...." 10,141 38,140 78,109 6,747 18,030 6 27,101 Italy Canada 1 Including flannels. M 'Imports for 1910 in square yards; exports do not include traveling rugs, coverlets, and wrappers, as follows: 1909, number, 1,858,572; value, $2,448,093. 1910, square yards, 2,260,600; value, $1,056,000. » Pairs. * Square yards. 6 Values include 90 bed comforters ($241) in 1909; 146 bed comforters ($261) in 1910. FLANNELS FOR UNDERWEAB. Flannels defined. — Flannels are loosely woven fabrics made either from woolen or French spun worsted yarns. The yarn necessary in th|ir making must be shghtly twisted and have an open structure, tlie object being to produce a soft, springy, elastic fabric. Formerly flannels were made entirely of woolen yams, but within recent yeara t^e lofty French spun worsted yarn has been found to be particularly Adapted to making them". In the finishing room flannels are only shghtly fulled; that is, just enough to bring out the wool effect and 142 EBPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD OK SCHEDULE K. remove tlie thread structure. Flannels then have a nap raised on the surface by the process of teaslin^. This nap is sometimes sheared, but generaUy pressed flat oa the face of the cloth. Boies of duty onjlanndfor underwear, — Flannels for underwear are made dutiable by the present tariff under three different para^aphs, viz, 379, 381, and 378. In the first place those flannels valued at 50 cents or less per pound are dutiable under paragraph 379, as foUows: Valued not more than 40 cents per pound, 22 cents per pound and 30 per cent: talued more than 40 and not more than 50 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound ana 35 per cent. At this point flannels for underwear are taken out of paragraph 379 and made dutiable under paragraph 381 by the provision: Flannels composed wholly or in part of wool, valued at above 50 cents per pound, shall be classified and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods, coatings, linings, Italian cloths, and goods of similar character and description provided by this section. On flannels, therefore, valued at over 50 cents per pound (and weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard) tiie rates of duty are: Valued more than 50 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 11 cents per square yard and 50 per cent; valued above 70 cents per pound, 11 cents per square yard and 55 per cent. Finally, flannels for underwear valued at more than 50 cents per pound and weighing more than 4 ounces to the square yard are made dutiable under paragraph 378 by the proviso in paragraph 381, which reads: That on all the forejgoing weighing over 4 ounces per square yard the duty shall be the same as imposed by this schedSe on cloths. This proviso, therefore, makes all flannels for underwear valued over 50 cents per pound and weighing over 4 ounces per square yard dutiable as follows: Valued more than 50 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and SO per cent; valued more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 55 pei cent. Compensatory duties on fianneh. — There are four different com- pensatory rates of duty levied on flannels for underwear. Flannels valued at 40 cents or less per pound pay 22 cents per pound, on tlie assumption that tlie domestic manufacturer of similar flannels has to pay, because of the tariff, 22 cents more for the material used in 1 pound of flannel than his foreign competitor. For similar reasons, 33 cents per pound is levied on fknnels valued over 40 and not over 50 cents per pound. On flannels valued over 50 cents per pound tho compensatory rate of duty is either 44 cents per pound or 11 cents per square yard, the latter being applicable to flannels weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard; the former to flannels weigliing over 4 ounces to the square yard. If all flannels dutiable at 1 1 cents per square yard weipied 4 ounces and no less, the compensatory duty would be precisely the same as 44 cents per pound. Forty-four cents per pound, on the one hand, is four times the duty on greasy wool of the first class (11 cents), and, on the other hand, 1 1 conts on a square yard which weighs 4 ounces is 1 1 cents on one-fourth of a pound, or 44 cents on the pound. The duty of 11 cents per square yard on goods weighing less than 4 ouncos per square yard is more tlian 44 cents per pound. For example, the compensatory duty on flannels weighmg 2 ounces per square yard is equal to 88 cents per pound. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI^ K. 148 Both of the provisos affecting flannels for underwear raise the duties above those found in paragraph 379. In absence of the proviso in 379, flannels valued over 50 cents per pound would pay a duty of 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent; under the proviso, they pay either 11 cents per square yard and 50 or 55 per cent, or, when they weigh over 4 ounces to the square yard, 44 cents per pound and 50 or 55 per cent. ^ ^ Imports of flannels in 191L— The imports of flannels for underwear mto the Umted States for the fiscal year ending June 30 1911 is given in detail in Table 107. The effect of the provisos should'be particularly noted. -Imports oJjlannehJoT underwear, into the United States for the fiscal year ending June SO, 1911. Table 107.- Rate of duty. Flannels for underwear: Valued at not more than 40 cents per pound. Valued at more than 40 and not more than 50 cents per pound. Valued at above 60 and not above 70 cents per pound. Valued above 70 cents per W pound, eighing over 4 ounces per equare yard- valued at above 50 and not above 70 cents per pound. Valued at over 70 cents per pound. Total, flannels, etc. 22 cents per pound plus 30 per cent. 33 cents per pound plus 35 per cent. 11 cents per square yard plus 50 per cent. 11 cents per square yard plus 55 per cent. 44 cents i>er pound plus 50 per cent. 44 cents per pound plus 55 per cent. Quanti- ties. Values. Pounds. 18.00 2.20 I 108.00 '27,801.00 3,318.00 89,359.14 Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate (com- puted). SG.80 1.00 56.00 8,434.00 2,030.50 75,501.00 86,029.30 IG.0O 1.08 39.88 7,606.81 2,475.16 80,843.57 91,062.50 88.24 108.00 71.21 91.26 121.90 107.08 105.85 * Square yards. Flannels valued at not more than 50 cents per pound,— Tahle 107 shows that a negligible quantity of flannels valued at not more than 50 cents per pound was imported into the United States in 1911. The same condition prevailed in 1909 and 1910. Any conclusions based on the few pounds that have been imported would be misleading. Ihe smallness of importation is due both to the decline in the use of flannel for underwear and the high duties. tunnels impoHed under dress-goods duties,— Tohle 107 shows that me imports of flannels for underwear valued above 50 cents per pound unlr/ll V^ ^ ''''''5^^ """^ ^^^! P^^ ^^"^^^ y^^^' Which are dutiable averaU v«fc rates of paragraph 381, are also small. The 70 n!f ? ^ P^^ ^:?^^^? y^^^ ^^ flannels valued over 50 and not over Im^n^fA^^^L^. ^^^ weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard Sua! W ^ T ^^ r^^? ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ 1^1^)- Tlie average value per square yard on flannels valued over 70 cents per pound and weigh- m C9nu''t^ Zhf P^^^sq^are yard imported m 1911 was 30 celts ti^m^roimfx,.!! ^' ^.^^ compensatory duty on these two valua- oUhf^^^^^^^^ P- cent and 36.26 per cent weihW nx.^'^r'^''^ """^''^ ^^^^^ duties.-The imports of flannels ^i^d 1 rr ^V^^^^s per square yard and valued over 50 cents per KiiiaU Th? ^7^^^' ^?^' ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^ther classf is «*iso small. The average price per poun^ of flannels weighmg over 144 EEPOBT OF TABITF BOABD ON SCHEDrU! K. BEPOHT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDTJLE K. 145 4 ounces per square yard and valued over 50 and not oyer 70 cents per jHmnd imported in 1911 was 61 cents (61 cents in 1910). The avw- Le price V pound of flannels weighing oyer * «"°«««, Pf/ *2««'-« vard and v^ued at over 70 cents per yound imported in 1911 was 82 ^nte (87 cents in 1910). The compensatory duty on the former cIms was 71.90 per cent of the value of the flannels imported, and on the latter 52.08 per cent of the value of the flannels imported. ImvorU offiannelfor representat%ve years.— The imports of flannels for underwear into the United States for certam representative years is given in Table 108. Table 108 —Importt of tUmntU Jot underwtar mtmd/or comumption into the United States. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). Fiscal year ending June 30— 189&— Pounds i 1900— Pounds Square yards tOi\K "Prmnrlo ....-•- 196,326 43,508 468 53,653 5,153 127,176 38,379 92,697 27,909 $127,285 \ 36,677 V 46,271 \ 122,894 } 86,029 $60,654 38,982 49,538 127,645 91,062 47.65 106.29 107.06 Square yards 103.87 lWll/~^i ouiiua ...•.-•..----•-- ••- Dquare y arua 1911— Pounds STquare yards 105.86 1 Under the Wilson bill. The increased importation in 1896 is due to the removal of the com- pensat^ duties in the act of 1894. In any case the miports of iannels & not large and the computed ad valorem rate of duty under the acts of 1897 and 1909 was over 100 per cent. „ ,„^Hn,, nf Prodmtwn of flannels in the Umted Sto^rd and 50 per cent. Valued above 70 centa per pound, 7 cents per tjquare yard and 55 per cent. Valued above 15 centa per square yard — j j r^ *, Valued not above 70 cents per pound, 8 cents per square yard and 50 per c^nt. Valued above 70 centa per pound, 8 centa per square yard and o5 per cent. \ Compensatory rates of 7 and 8 cents per square yard. — ^The com- pensatory rates of 7 and 8 cents per square yard are intended to com- pensate the domestic manufacturer for the increase in the price of Gs wool, due to the tariff, wliich he uses in making cotton-warp dress goods. In these goods all the yams running lengthwise in the fabric are of cotton on which no compensation is necessary and the yarn running across the fabric may be in whole or in part of wool. Seven cents per square yard is the compensation given the domestic manufacturer who makes goods similar to those valued abroad at 15 cents or less per square yard. If he uses 2 ounces of wool in each square yard, the 7 cents per square yard compensation is equal to 66 cents per pound, i. e., he is compensated on the theory that he used 5^ pounds of greasy wool for each pound of wool in the cotton- warp goods. If in these goods the filling were heavier than the warp and as much as 3 ounces of wool was used in each square yard of fabric, the 7 cents per square yard would be equal to 37 J cents per pound, so that in taking the extreme possibihty of wool in cotton- warp dress goods, the compensation is still only 6§ cents less than the maximum compensation allowed on cloth (44 cents per pound). If we take the other extreme and assume that there is only 1 ounce of wool in a given square yard of dress goods, the compensation of 7 cents per square yard is equal to 112 cents per pound. The same observations apply in general to the 8 cents per square yard compensa- tion levied on cotton-warp dress goods valued over 15 cents per square yard. If these goods contain 1 ounce of wool to the square yard, the compensation is equal to 128 cents per pound ; if they con- tain 2 ounces to the square yard, the compensation is equal to 64 cents per pound; if they contain 3 ounces to the square yard, the compensation is equal to 42 § cents per pound. It should be remem- bered that under the discussion of cloths, 44 cents per pound compensation was found to be the maximum compensation needed. Rates under the proviso of 380. — The proviso at tne end of paragraph 380 reads : That on all the foregoing, weighing over 4 ounces per square yard, the rates of duty shall be 5 per cent lees than those imposed by this schedule on cloths. By this provision all dress goods with cotton warp weighing over 4 ounces per square yard are m^de dutiable at 5 per cent less than the rates on cloths in paragraph 378. These rates are as follows: Dress goods with cotton warp weighing over 4 ounc^ per square yard: Valued not more than 40 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 50 per cent less 5 per cent: valued more than 40 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent less 5 per cent; valued mcare than 70 cents per pound, 44 centa per pound and 55 per cent less 5 per cent. In these duties the only recognition of the fact that the fabrics dutiable under them are all but universally half cotton and some- times more than half cotton is the 5 per cent subtracted from the whole duty. This was one of the reductions made in the revision of 1909, but its effect was for all practical purposes nothing. The compensatory duties here assume that in cotton-warp dress goods valued over 40 cents per pound there is used 4 pounds of greasy wool of the first class. Rates of duty on dress goods wkoUy or in part of wool. — The compen- satory duties m paragraph 381 are higher Decause the goods dutiable there may be of all wool. They may also, it should be noted, be 148 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDXTLE K. m almost entirely of cotton mth a small portion of wool in either warp or filling. But the theory of the compensatoiy duties in Schedule K — and this must be kept in mind — is to give the highest compensa- tion necessary on any goods that may be imported under a paragraph and allow the domestic manufacturer of the cheaper goods to benefit from the added protection due to the excess of actual over necessary compensation. The rates of duty on dress goods weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard are as follows : Dress goods, wholly or in part of wool weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard: Valued not above 70 cents per pound, 11 cents per square yard and 50 percent; valued above 70 cents per pound, 11 cents per square yard and 55 per cent. Compensatory rate of 11 cents per square yard. — The compensatory rate of 1 1 cents per square yard on all dress goods weigliing 4 ounces per square yard (and no less) is precisely the same as the duty of 44 cents per pound already explained under paragraph 378. As in the latter case, it is assumed mat it requires 4 pounds of greasy wool of the first class to make 1 pound of clotli. so in the former it is assumed that it requires 1 pound of greasy wool of the first class to make a square yard of goods weighing one-fourth of a pound. The duty on greasy wool of class one being 11 cents per pound, the compensatory duty in one case is stated as 44 cents per pound and in the other at 1 1 cents per square yard weigliing 4 ounces. The compensatory duty on the square yard, however, is only equal to the 44 cents per pound in paragraph 378 when the goods weigh the maximum amount of 4 ounces per square yard. On dress goods weighing less than 4 ounces per square yard, the compensatory duty does not adjust itself as it does when it is levied on weight, but these goods continue to pay the same compensatory duty that goods weighing 4 ounces per square yard do. Dress goods, then, weighing 3 ounces per square yard pay a compensatory duty based on me assumption that it reauires 16 ounces of greasy wool of class one to make 3 ounces of fabric; or, stating it another way, the greasy wool making an all-wool goods of 3 ounces should shrink from greasy wool to goods 81 J per cent if the duty just compensated. All-wool dress goods weigliing 2 ounces per sauare yard pay a compensatory duty based on the assumption that the wool used in their making shrunt 87i per cent from greasy wool to cloth. Due to the fact that the compensatory duty on dress goods changes from the rate per poimd applied to cloths under para- graph 378 to the rate per square yard, the duty on dress goods weigh- mg less than 4 ounces per square yard is more man 44 cents per pound and therefore the actual is greater tlian necessary compensation. The compensatory duties on dress goods weighing less than 4 ounces per square yard is liigher than that on cloth. In discussing the compensatory rates it has been assumed up to this point that the dress goods were all wool, and that therefore the duties would be more than compensatory only when the goods were made of wool and hair shrinking less than 75 per cent from greasy wool to finished goods. But many kinds of dress goods are made in part of cotton and other materials which are on the free fist, and therefore do Bot need to be compensated for. In paragraph 381 the compensatory duty is fixed on the theory not only that the goods dutiable under it are all wool, but that they are made of wool shrinking 75 per cent from greasy wool to finished goods. Many of the fabrics, however, dutiable BEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 149 1) \ r \ A* under this paragraph are in part of cotton, silk, or other free material, and just in so far as these materials are present in the goods the com- pensatory duty is more than a compensation to the manufacturer who makes similar goods in the United States. Rates under the proviso of 381. — The proviso at the end of paragraph 381 is the same as the one at the end of 380, except the whole of the rates instead of 5 per cent less than the rates on cloths in paragraph 378, are levied on all dress goods wholly or in part of woof weighing over 4 ounces per square yard. These rates of duty are: Dress goods wholly and in part of wool weighing over 4 ounces per square yard: Valued more than 40 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 50 per cent; valued more than 40 and not more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent; valued more than 70 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 55 per cent. Dress goods provisos. — ^As already stated, both paragraphs 380 and 381 have provisos which make all dress goods weighing over 4 ounces per square yard dutiable under the rates of paragraph 378. The one m paragraph 381 reads: That on all the foregoing weighing over four ounces per square yard the duty shall be the same as imposed by this schedule on cloths. A proviso having precisely the same effect as this one is found in the act of 1867, and the committee that framed that act explained the proviso as follows: The proviso in relation to all goods weighing four ounces and over per square yard is inserted to prevent cloakings and heavy goods, which should pay duty as cloth, coming in at a less duty as dress goods because adapted to women's and children'^ wear. There is, however, another reason. This proviso is vitally con- nected with the 4 to 1 ratio of compensatory duties. The com- pensatory rate on dress goods dutiable under paragraph 381 and weighing 4 ounces or less per sauare yard is 11 cents per square yard. Assuming that all goods classea here weigh 4 ounces per square yard, as the law does, and remembering that the rate on 1 pound of un- washed wool of class 1 is 11 cents, it is clear that 11 cents on goods weighing one-fourth of a pound per square yard is the same as a duty of 44 cents per pound on cloth. This proviso, therefore, prevents goods weighing over 4 ounces per square yard from coming m under the compensatory rate of 11 cents per square yard and makes them dutiable under a paragraph (378) where they have to pay the full compensatory rate, based on the theory that it requires 4 pounds of greasy wool of class 1 to make a pound, of cloth. Since the act of October 1, 1890, two paragraphs have been devoted to dress goods, both of which have had identically the same proviso at the end, until changed in the act of August 5, 1909. This was one of the few changes made in Schedule K at that time. As a conces- sion to those who contended that the cotton in the dress goods dutiable under paragraph 381 needed no compensation the proviso was made to read: That on all the foregoing weighing over four ounces per square yard the rates of duty sHall be five per centum less than those imposed by this schedule on cloths. Impor^ of dress goods in 1911. —The imports of dress goods into the Umted btatesfor the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911, are shown in 1 able 110. TTie importation under each classification and proviso is here given and should be noted carefully. i\ 150 Tabls 110. BEPOBT OF TAMFF BOABB OK SCHEDULE K. -ImporU of drem goods into the United States for the fiscal year endifig June 30, 1911. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUUS K. 151 Bates o{ duty. ]}ns8 ffoods, women's and chil- Sren's coat It'xin^, Italian flUk$, and goods of mmUar descriptioH. The warp consisting wholly of cotton or other vegetable ma- terials, with th« remainder of the fabric composed wholly or inpart of wool: Weighing 4 ounces or leas per square yard- Valued at not exeee<3mc 15 oouts per square yard- Not above 70 cents per pound. Above 70 cents per pound. Valued at more than 15 cents per square yaiti— Not above 70 cents per pound. Above 70 cents per pound. Weighing over 4 ounces per square yard — * Valued at not more than 40 cents per poimd. Valued at above 40 and not above 70 cents per pound Valued at over 70 cents per poimd. Composed wholly or in part of wool^ Weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard- Valued at not aboi'e 70 cents per pound. Valued above 70 cents per pound. Weighing over 4 ounces per square yard — Valueound plus 50 per cent minus 5 percent. 44 cents per pound plus 55 per cent miiim5|>ercent 11 cents per square yard plus 50 per cent. 11 cents per square yard pliB 55 per cent. 33 cents per pound plus 50 per cent. 44 cents per povmd plus 50 per cent. 44 cents per pound plus 55 per cent. Quantities. Values. Square yards. 7,247,614.26 1,198,830.25 301,805.50 5,521,564.74 » 918. 00 $950,265.00 172,278.00 51,756.00 1,124,685.50 346.00 137,837.05 23,066.00 1252,042.50 24,877.76 10,400,807.97 1186.00 1279,347.21 Revenue derived. Ad val- orem rate (com- puted). i»82, 465.51 178,671.02 50,022.44 1.0e0.3«2.22 452. 14 26,772.44 228,932.05 224,971.07 5,030.50 2, 333, 034.. 32 57.00 162,114.00 11,400,909.24 1,312,708.50 5,251.80 2,427,257.89 80.88 203,969.77 1,338,390.18 6,364,272.87 6,498,616.36 » Pounds. 103.39 103.71 96.65 94. «8 130.68 116.07 98.27 104.40 104.04 157.68 125.82 101.96 102. 11 Imports ajholyzed,— 'Table 110 sliows that only in a few cases are the computed ad valorem rates on dress goods under 100 per cent; none are under 90 per cent, and from this they range upward to over 150 per cent. These computed rates, it should be remembered, mclude both the protective ad valorem rates and the compensatory rates. Unlike other paragraphs of Schedule K, the veiy cheapest dress goods dutiable under these paragraphs show a large importation. The imports of cotton-warp dress goods weighing 4 ounces or less to the \ r square yard, valued not exceedmg 15 cents per square yard and not over 70 cents per pound, in 1911 was 7,247,614 square j^ards, on which a duty was paid equal to 103.39 per cent of their value; 63.39 per cent of this was compensatory duty and 50 per cent pro- tective duty. The lowest duties under these paragraphs are on cotton- warp dress goods weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard, valued over 15 cents per square yard and over 70 cents per pound. On the 5,521,565 square vards imported in 1911, the protective duty was 55 per cent and tne compensatory duty 39.28 per cent of the value of tiie goods imported. The proviso which makes cotton-warp dress goods w^eighing over 4 ounces per square yard dutiable at 5 per cent less than cloth, raises the rate. Under this proviso the few fabrics valued at 40 cents or less imported in 1911 paid 130.68 per cent duty. The largest importation in 1911 (also in 1909 and 1910) is of dress goods made w^holly or in part of wool, w^eighing 4 ounces or less per square yard and valued over 70 cents per pound. Of these 10,400,808 square yards were imported in 1911 over a duty composed of 55 per cent protective duty and 49.04 per cent compensatory duty. The effect of the proviso on dress goods made wholly or in part of w^ool is to raise the rates. On the small importation of goods in 1911 weighing over 4 ounces per square yard and valued at 40 cents or less per pound, the protective duty was 50 per cent and the compen- satory duty 107.68 per cent of the value of goods imported. It is noticeable in Table 110 that the large importations of dress goods into the United States are both the finest and the cheapest. Medium grades are not imported in large quantities. The largest importation is of dress goods composed whollv or in part of wool, weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard and Valued over 70 cents §er pound. The next largest importation in 1911 was of cotton- warp ress goods weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard, valued at 15 cents or less per square yard, and valued at 70 cents or less per pound. Cotton-warp dress goods, weigliing 4 ounces or less per square yard, valued over 15 cents per square yard, and valued over 70 cents per pound, also show a large importation in 1911. The total value of the maports under the dress-goods paragraphs is generally liigher than on the imports under any other paragrapli providing rates on manufac- tures of wool. Imports of dress goods for representative years. — Table 111 presents the imports of dress goods of all countries into the United States for certain representative years. Except the figures for 1896, the imports expressed in square yards represent the dress goods weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard, and the imports expressed in pounds represent those weighmg more than 4 ounces per square yard. m J H 152 EEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 111. — Imports of dress goods entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 189tj— Founds » 190O— Square yards Pounds 1905— Square yards Pounds 1910— Square yards Pounds 1911— Square yards Pounds Quantity. 24,614.717 15,308,474 2,980,4(18 41,906,112 1.860,711 35.210.594 3,227,640 24,(105,500 1,971,240 Value. } fl9,494,208 5,895,820 8,807,452 9,218,374 6, 3v} 1,273 Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). S9. 020,517 5,848,320 8,966,386 9,481,207 6,498,616 49.35 99.19 101.80 102.85 102.11 1 Under the Wilson bOl. Imports of dress gocds, hy countries.— The, imports of dress goods from specified foreign countries into the United States for representa- tive years is given in Table 112. In tliis table the chief countries of origin in their order of importance are, the United Kmgdom, France, and Germany. Table 112.— Imports of dress goods, hy countries, entered for immediate consumption and for warehouse into the United States. 1896 1900 1905 Coimtry of origin. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value Austria-IIungary . Belgium France Germany Italy. United Kingdom . Japan Other countries.. Pounds. 33,542 5.237 8.087,111 6,891,692 11.281,020 3 » 58,230 $28,709 3.967 6.290.344 6,939,936 7,615,074 3 51,892 Sq. yds. 4.536 117.512 7.088.726 4,808.854 147 13,321,543 2,680 32,915 2.109,878 1,201,271 30 2,526,171 920 Quantity. Sq. yds. 167,920 140 8.524,206 4,707,901 119 31,680.549 24,375 5,060 Value- $48,261 44 2,080,518 1,143,028 53 5,332,746 5,931 1,482 1910 1011 Coi:nt:-\- <.ri,-r:::in. Quantity. Austr ia-Hungary . Belgium France Germany Italy United Kingdom. Japan Otlier countries... Sq. yds. 81.714 $22,703 19,991 5,755 12.968.267 2.870.374 9,167.031 2,187.6S0 3,836 1,018 26,054.902 4,275,049 46.585 10,476 2,758 1,085 Value. Quantity. Value. Sq. vis. 71,055 134 8.906,749 4,i>91,737 26 16,793,766 47.047 3,829 $20,299 27 1,943,121 1,164,122 12 3,122,355 11.323 1,307 1 Of these, Switzerland had 53,709 pounds, valued at $48,819. Exports of dress goods from the United States.— The exports of dress goods of clomestic manufacture from the United States shown m Table 113 are in marked contrast to the imports shown m Table 112. They became so small in 1911 that they were included by the Bureau of Statistics in ''All other manufactui-es.'' tv t I KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 01^ SCHEDULE K. 153 Table 113.^ — Exports of dress goods of dojnestic manufacture, hy countries, from the United States. Country of destination. 1900 1905 Quantity Germany United Kingdom . . Canada — Mexico Cuba Argentina Japan Alaska Hawaii Philippine Islands. Porto Kico Other countries... Yards. 400 827 33,543 936 Value. $200 780 21,078 657 2,460 I 1,666 Quantity. Value. Yards. 1,212 1,400 4,617 90 7,493 1,000 3,101 61,269 12 4,081 $987 1,075 3,356 54 5,168 900 1,906 45,826 4 4,028 19101 Quantity.' Value, Yards. 10,775 1,648 16,860 4,971 1,078 1,645 1,721 18,242 66,149 608 06,400 938 19,826 1,270 6,438 1,975 761 2,009 3,872 11,543 100,644 890 58,270 865 1 Included in "All other manufactures of" after 1^10. Production of dress goods in the United States. — ^The production of both woolen and worsted dress goods in the United States for 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 114. This table does not include 378,000 square yards of mohair dress goods reported only in 1909. (See Table 197.) Table 114. — Production of dress goods in the woolen and worsted industries of the United States, 1899 and 1909, All-wool dress goods: Wool dress goods, etc., opera and similar flannels, and other similar all-wool dress goods — Square yards Value Worsted dress goods, cashmeres, serges, etc., for women's wear, and buntings — Square yards Value Cotton-mixed dress goods: Sackings, tricots, dress goods for women's wear, and opera and similar flannels— a Square yards Value Cotton-warp dress goods: Wool-filling dress goods, and similar goods, and repellents—' Square yards Value Worsted-filling dress goods, delaines, cashmeres, etc., and other stuffs, for women's wear— » Square yards Value Linings, Italian cloths, and lastings— ' Square yards Value 1909 29,099,956 $16,385,498 105,801,349 $54,030,376 4,246,914 $1,721,752 12,268,822 $2,587,274 64,468,422 $14,597,359 26,514,518 $8,767,464 1899 Percent of increase, 1899-1909. 33,594,212 $12,976,489 57,712,086 $16,316,392 10,105,548 $3,341,341 7,149,016 $1,735,446 39,611,517 $8,466,106 6,987,330 $1,953,139 U3.38 26.27 83.33 231.14 »57-97 I4&47 71.63 49.08 62.75 72.42 279.47 348.89 * Decrease. " Does not include small amount made in worsted mills. » Does not include small amount made in woolen mills. In general, Table 114 shows that the production of dress goods made from woolen yarn dechned during the decade while the pro- duction of those made from worsted yarn increased. AU-wool dress goods, such as opera and similar flannels, declined in quantity 13.38 SKUIiBBiiliP 154 KEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON BCHEDTJI^ K. ,i|Mu|| ii' llfl III per cent but increased in value 26.27 per cent. Cotton-mixed dress goods, such as flannels for women's wear, declined 57.97 per cent m quantity and 48.47 per cent in value. Worsteds, casiuneres, serges, etc for women's wear, and bunting increased 83.33 per cent m quan- tity and 231.14 per cent in value. Cotton-warp goods m every case increased in production. Those with wool fillmg mcreased 71.62 per cent in quantity and 49.08 per cent m value. Worsted filled dress goods, such as delaines and cashmeres, mcreased 62.75 per cent in quantity and 72.42 per cent in value. The largest relative mcrease shown during the decade is in linings, ItaHan cloths, and lasting. These increased 279.47 per cent in quantity and 348.89 per cent m value Production of dress goods in the United Kingdom.-— In 1907 the United Kingdom produced 142,852,000 yards of worsted stuffs, dress goods, Hnings, lastings, etc., valued at $32,235,696. Cmmmrce of foreign countries in dress goods.— T&bie 115 presents the imports and exports of dress goods for certain leachng foreign countries in 1909 and 1910. No figures are given here for Germany because dress goods are not reported separately m her statistics. Table 115.— Jmpor/« and eiports of dress goods or stuffs for Uadiny countries in 1909 and 1910. 1909 1910 Country. Im porta. Exports. Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value, Quantity. Value. United States. United Kingdom... France Yards. 69,' 728,957 11,224,876 /3. 361, 538 \ a 312, 388 17,019,284 26,024,232 1,261,077 1 977,137 Yards. 22,212 71,859,300 121,680,036 $13. 786 16.014.610 23,401,699 Yards. ,11.016,982 /5, 795. 194 \'-'374,241 10,218,374 23.310,637 1,081,186 |l, 509, 687 l^cri*. 40.244 78. 116. 700 »28,&43,486 $27,906 18,305.2.'>8 21,776,962 Cannda 1 I Pounds. « Square yards. In order to show the predominance of cotton-mixed dress goods produced in the United Kingdom, her exports are presented sepa- rately in Table 116. This table shows that m 1910 she exported 59,753,800 yards of dress goods which were m part of cotton and other similar materials, while, on the contrary, she exported only 9,929,900 yards of all-wool dress goods. Table 116.— Exports of dress goods from the United Kingdom for 1910. Class, Worsted stuffs, dress goods, Unings, lastings, etc.. all ^'>oV#k';.;h*«;V,;«;;;i«i;* Worsted stuffs, dress goods, linings, lastings, etc., mixea witli other materials. Quantity. Yards. 9.929,900 69,763,800 Value, $,3,071,131 13,655,000 \ EEPOBT OF TAErFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI^ K. Paragraph 382.— WEARING APPAREL AND FELTS. 155 On clothing, ready-made, and articles of wearing apparel of every description, ^ including shawls whether knitted or woven, and knitted articles of every descnption made up or manufactured wholly or in part, felts not woven, and not Bpeciallv pro- vided for in this section, composed wholly or in part of wool, the duty per pound shall be four t mes the duty imposed by this section on one pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto sixty per centum ad valorem. Paragraph 382 provides rates on (a) wearing apparel of every description and (h) unwoven felts. No basis whatever exists for classifying these together. The compensatory rate levied by the paragraph is the maximum compensatory rate levied by paragraph 378 on cloths (44 cents per pound), and the ad valorem rate is 5 per cent higher than the maximum ad valorem rate levied on cloths. WEARING APPAREL OF WOOL. Classification of wearing apparel. — Wearing apparel of wool duti- able under paragraph 382 is classified as follows: (a) Hats of wool; (6) hosiery, underwear, sweaters, and other knitted apparel made wholly or in part of wool; (c) knitted and woven shawls, and (d) all other ready-made clothing, cloaks, and similar wearing apparel. Hats of all descriptions made wholly or in part of wool are dutiable under paragraph 382. In addition to the ordinary felt and wool hats the following have been mentioned in Treasury Decisions: Alpaca hats; Argyle hats; miner hats of wool and resin, wool chief value; felt and fez caps; hats of hair and straw; mortar-board caps; Eith helmets covered with mohair; turbans; hat bodies of wool or air, etc. Knitted piece goods are dutiable under paragraph 378, but all articles and parts of articles of apparel knitted on knitting machines or otherwise, or made into garments from knitted piece goods are dutiable here. Knitted wearing apparel includes under- clothing, hosiery, gloves, sweaters, fascinators, cardigan jackets, hoods, scarfs, and the like. Both knitted and woven shawls are duti- able here. "All other wearing apparel'' includes men's and women's suits; cloaks, ulsters; skirts; overcoats; raincoats of cotton, rubber, and wool (T. D. 31350); raincoats in part of wool with rubber chief value (T. D. 31720), and all similar light and heavy weight garments for men's, women's, and children's wear. Garments of wool and fur, of which fur is chief value, are, however, now dutiable under para- graph 439 (T. D. 31811). Rates on wearing apparel. — The rate of duty on articles of wearing apparel of every description made wholly or in part of wool is 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem. The compensatory rate or 44 cents per pound is the same that is levied on the best cloths imported under paragraph 378. It is said that since it requires 4 pounds of greasy wool of the first class to make 1 pound of certain of the best fabrics, and since these fabrics may be put into garments, the compensatory rate must give, according to the theory of the law, compensation on all equal to the compensation required on the best garments. No minimum duties are fixed to provide for cheaper clothing which may contain cotton, shoddy, noils, wool waste, not to mention trimmings and the hke on the garments. Garments very frequently contam other materials than wool and wool waste. Felt hats may contain shoddy, hau:, and coarse wool, and knitted articles |:| 11 156 BEPORT OP TAEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. as a rule are made only in part of wool (except when made entirely of cotton, when they are dutiable as cotton goods). Ready-made clothing contains buttons, linings, braids, etc., which are not of wool, yet the compensatory duties are levied on the entire weight of wear- ing apparel, and all the materials, whether wool or not, pay a rate of 44 cents a pound in addition to the ad valorem rate. The compen- satory duties on clothing more than compensate the manufacturer, both because materials other than wool are used m their making and because wool generally shrinks less than 75 per cent frona greasy wool to cloth. The ad valorem rate of 60 per cent on ready-made clothing is higher than the duty on cloths (50 and 55 per cent ad valorem), because the garment is more advanced m the inanufac- turing process than the finished cloth and therefore more labor and capital involved in its production must be protected. Total imports of wearing apparel— The total unports of wearing apparel, both knitted and woven, into the Umted States for certain representative years are shown in Table 117. Table 117— Total imports of wearing apparel entered for consumption into the UniUd States. Fiscal yotir ending June 30— Quantity. Value. Eevenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). 18961. 1900.. 1905.. 1910.. 1911.- Pounds. 838.798 853,294 mo, 413 926,616 $4,154,477 1,513.650 1,691.751 1,776,236 2,257,374 $1,944,848 1,277,261 1,390.494 1,444,297 1,762,094 46.81 84.38 82.20 81.31 78.06 " Under the Wilson bill. Imports of wearing aprnrd, hy countries. —TliQ imports of wearmg apparel into the United States, by countries, are shown m Table 118. Tlie most important countries of origin are the Umted l^mgdom, Germany, France, and Switzerland. Table llS.— Imports of wearing apparel of wool, hij countries entered for immediate cmisumption and for warehouse into the I nitcd States. Country of origin. Austria-Hungary. Belgium France Germany Italy Switwrland United Kingdom. Canada China Mexico Other countries.. 18W 1900 19a5 S41.042 111.028 f 10, 131 »,330 3,2,=>1 3,818 176,601 221,660 345.578 804,834 456.594 641.924 4.024 1,621 4.601 13.845 23.662 6,532 610,641 336,052 400.943 11,009 5,427 14,462 18,780 5,246 2,178 4,716 981 406 5,201 7,042 6,755 1910 J $19,787 3,099 401,823 552,834 20,586 93,930 697,958 11,050 1,744 786 9,945 1911 $24,479 4,712 358,502 709,811 14,508 122,159 989,141 14,174 3,425 688 33,157 J After 1906 shawls are included in "All other manufactures.*! Exports of wearing apparel, hij countnes.— The exoorts of woolen weaiTiiff apparel of domestic manufacture from the United btates, by countries, is shown in Table 1 19. Canada is by far the most impor- tant market which the United States has for wearmg apparel. Mexico and our colonies rank next m importance. I \ BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 157 Table 119. — Exports of woolen wearing apparel of domestic vianufacture, htj countries, from the United States. Country of destination- Germany United Kingdom Canada, Newfoundland, and Labrador, Panama Mexico Cuba Argentina Colombia Japan British Australasia British Africa Alaska Hatvaii Philippine Islands Pcrto K ico Other countries 1896 $18,935 80,477 150,088 21,310 369 700 20,235 2,218 2,528 279 40,762 150 27,260 1900 $3,775 21,719 342,827 57,307 6,073 6,353 1,314 5,123 2,383 4,007 94,420 1,395 493 23,200 1905 $18,814 99,777 1,072,632 5,712 237,605 11,989 33,707 13,933 17,867 10,218 18,501 504,744 155,959 11,637 65,450 72,080 1910 1911 $9,739 19,456 1,010,463 44,840 335,692 36,722 27,960 2,547 3,965 2,575 5,343 581,867 97,087 17,805 48,021 38,077 $2,685 21,557 947,260 9,141 278,802 19,565 66,507 228 460 3,229 15,465 44,993 0) 40,585 1 Figures not available. Imports of wool hats. — The imports of hats of wool into the United States for certain representative years is presented in Table 120. Table 120. — Imports of hats of wool entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30- Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). 18961 45 per cent or 50 per cent Pounds. 232,604 6,771 2,406 19,557 19,630 $144,372 11,575 4,926 33,306 47,145 $50,452 9,924 4,014 28,589 36,925 34 95 1900 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent 85 74 1905 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent... 81 50 1910 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent 85 84 1911 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent 78 .'12 1 Under the Wilson bill. Production of wool-felt liats. — ^The industry producing wool-felt hats in the United States consisted in 1909 of 31 establishments having a capital of $2,475,748. The number of wage earners was 1,986. The materials used were valued at $2,472,263 and the total value of the products was $4,382,411. The products of this industry are pre- sented in detail for 1899 and 1909 in Table 121. Table 121.— Products of wool-felt hat industry in the United States, 1899 and 1909. Total value Wool-felt hats: Dozens Value *.'..'."...' Wool-felt hat bodies and hats in the rough Dozens Value ', All other products 1909 $4,382,411 590,957 $3,646,787 53,896 $309, 492 $426, 132 1899 $3,591,940 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 22.01 811,425 $3,161,361 56,006 $120,262 $310,317 1 27. 17 15.36 8.77 157.35 37.33 1 Decrease. •it I *4 158 BEPOBT OF TASXrV BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDTILE K. 159 Table 121 shows that the total value of the products of the wool- felt hat industry increased during the decade 22.01 per cent m value. The production of wool-felt hats declined dunng the decade 27.17 per cent in quantity, but increased in value 15.36 per ceiit. llie production of partially manufactured hats, such as hat bodies, increased in quantity 3.77 per cent and 157.35 per cent m value. Imporis of JcniUed articles.— Imports of knitted garments or parts of garments into the United States for certain representative years are shown m Table 122. If we subtract the protective ad valorem rate from the computed ad valorem rate on kmtted articles miported into the United States, we find that the compensatoiy rates are just over 30 per cent of the value of the articles imported. Table l22.'-Imports of knitted articles entered for consumption into the United State9. Fiscal year ending June 30— 18961. 1900.. 1905.. 1910. . 1911.. Rate of duty. 45 per cent or 50 per cent 44 cents i^er poxind and 60 per cent. 44 cenbJ per pound and 60 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent. Quantity. Pounds. 411,633 413.. 557 286,333 272,808 Value. 12,458,427 541,982 5.38,532 354,283 367,708 Revenue derived. $1,172,744 505,084 338,556 340,660 Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). 47.70 93.43 93.80 WO-' tAf 92.64 I Under the Wilson bill. Extent of the Tiosiery and Tcnit-qoods industry.— In 1910 there were m the UnitcH States 1,374 estabhshments producing hosiery and knit goods, with a capitai of $163,641,171. llie average number of wage lamera employed was 129,287, to whom were P"^ ^^5^ ffl°"°^H« to $44,743,822. The total cost of materials used was $110,048,b7b, and the total value of products was $200,143,527.1 Methods of making Icnitted garments.— Kmtted garments are some- times made by cutting up knitted piece goods accordmg to a pattern «id sewing them into^ the shape ok the garment designed Circular knitting now, however, is most common There are mf^/ tyPf "^.^t- In general it forms a knitted circular webby means of latched needles which draw the yam through loops made m itself and is released when ^e ^nd loop^is formed^ ThiV circular web must be cut up and iomed together wth other parts in order to complete the garment. Another type of machine fasliions the article to conform to the shape of the foot, leg, or body. These msclunes are used especially for hosiery. Macfines are also made which produce plait«d goods which have both sides wool and the inside cotton or any combination of materiab that may be dedred. ^Kb kmttin^ is g^^^^ng^^^^^'^^^ mZTart ^f the^garmmt is' maX b/fi^t Suiting to have such parts ZVcuSs or slefves and the tops of socks kmtted by the nb process. The rib is produced by reversmg every other or every third stitch pJodudL of hosi^,. -Kmtted piece goods are produced m the U^ted States on flat looms, but it is the cu.^om to cut and shape the^e into garments in the mill where made.. The '^^i'^l'^J.fl,^^^ M^^.^ produced by the hos iery and knit-goods mdustry m the Umted States ■ see p. 236 for farther details relating to Uie hoeiery and knit^goods industry. \ \ I I ill is produced on the circular-knitting machine. The products of this industry are reported by the United States Census only in articles of wearing apparel. Cotton is used in larger quantities tlian any other textile material. Cotton as well as silk products are included in Table 123 along with the woolen and worsted products for the purpose of comparison. Table 123. -Hose and half hose produced by the hosiery industry in the United States, 1899 and 1909. , 1909 1S99 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. Total, doien 62,825,069 «68, 721.825 29,903,899 $2*/, 420, 029 110.09 Total, value 150.63 Cotton: Dozen 57,305,021 $55,909,987 2.227,964 54,445,227 2,8.57,670 $4,766,195 434,414 $3,600,416 26,380,254 821,182,677 2,116,662 $4,006,216 1,394,411 $2,044,723 12,572 $186,413 117.23 Value 163.94 Woolen or worsted: Dozen 5.26 Value 10.96 Merino or mixed: Dozen 104.94 Value 133. 10 Silk: Dozen 3,355.41 1,831.42 Value Table 123 shows that the increase in the production of cotton and cotton-mixed hosiery was much greater during the decade than that for woolen and worsted hosiery. Cotton hosiery increased 117.23 per cent in quantity and 163.94 per cent in value. Cotton- mixed hosiery increased 104.94 per cent in ouantitv and 133.10 per cent in value. While, on the contrary, woolen and worsted hosiery increased only 5.26 per cent in quantity and 10.96 per cent in value. By far the largest relative increase during the decade was in silk hosiery, which increased 3,355.41 per cent in quantity and 1,831.42 per cent in value, but the quantity produced is small. Production of knitted underwear. — The production of knitted under- wear in the United States for 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 124, IjBO BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 161 m }^i nil ■I :||' i>i Table 124 —Knit underwear produced by the knit-goods industry in the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 Total, dozen Total, value Shirts and drawers: All cotton— Dozen Value All wool- Dozen Value Medno or mixed- Dozen,... Value Silk or silk mixed— • Dozen Value Combination suits: All cotton- Dozen Value All wool- Dozen Value Merino or mixed- Dozen Value Bilk or silk mixed- Dozen Value 27,810,922 $84,446,353 1899 16.860.565 $49,367,441 22,567,121 $50,007,598 178,163 $1,820,521 2,536.473 $17,055,024 56,062 $709,074 2,047.637 $9,713,597 50,102 $683,289 364.387 $4,217,432 10,977 $239,218 12,058,431 $26,882,902 1,085,046 $4,980,818 2,675,416 $13,293,829 54.807 $518,045 824,632 $2,240,566 9.601 $201,667 139.994 $1,133,328 12.728 $116,286 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 64.95 71.06 87.15 86.02 193.58 163.45 15.19 28.30 2.29 36.87 148.31 333.53 427.33 238.82 160.29 272.13 U3.78 105.72 » Decrease. The production of all-cotton shirts and drawers during the decade increased 87.15 per cent in quantity and 86.02 per cent m value. The production of all-wool shirts and drawers, however, declined 93.58 per cent in quantity and 63.45 per cent in value. The production of mixed-cotton shirts and drawers declined in quantity 5.19 per cent, but increased 28.30 per cent in value. Table 124 also shows that the rate of increase for combination suits was much greater than for sint'le sliirts and drawers, but the quantity produced is comparatively small. All-cotton combination suits increased during the decade 148.31 per cent in quantity and 333.53 per cent in value. The all-wool combination suits, although still insignificant in quantity, increased in production at a greater rate than the all-cotton combi- nation suits; i. e., 427.33 per cent in quantity and 238.82 per cent in Production of Icnitted fancies.— The production statistics for fancy knitted articles reported by the hosiery and knit goods industry do not state of what material the articles are composed. We can only assume that the percentage of wool in these Articles is probably greater than the percentage of wool in the articles covered by lable 123 and Table 124. The production of knitted fancy articles m the United States for 1899 and 1909 is presented in Table 125. Table 125. — Knit fancies produced by the Init-goods industry in the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 1899 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. Total value. • $32,945,689 $8,745,275 276.73 Gloves and mittens; Dozen 2,383,889 $7,296,887 888,223 $3,217,985 2,221.410 $22,430,817 1,898.587 $4,244,046 343,429 $1,002,392 594.090 $3,498,837 125.56 Value 71.93 Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc.: Dozen 158.63 Value 221.03 Cardigan jackets, sweaters, fancy jackets, etc.: Dozen 273.92 Value 541.00 The increase in production during the decade of gloves and mittena was 125.56 per cent in quantity and 71.93 per cent in value. The increase in the production of hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc., was 158.63 per cent in quantity and 221.03 per cent in value. Cardigan jackets, sweaters, fancy jackets, etc., show the largest increase. They in- creased 273.92 per cent in quantity and 541.09 per cent in value. Knitting industry abroad. — Saxony is the chief State in Germany in the production of knitted goods, and Chemnitz the chief city in Saxony. The German statistics of 1907 do not indicate the materials which were used by this industry. While we must assume that cot- ton was the chief material used, wool no doubt was used ta a con- siderable extent. In 1907 there were 103,996 persons employed in the knit-goods industry in Germany; 64,716 or these were women. Leicester is the great hosiery center in England. In 1907 there were 18,979 persons employed in the industry in that city. The total number employed in the United Kingdom in the hosieTy in- dustry was 39,791. Harwich is also an important center of pro- duction. The value of all knit goods of whatever materfal com- posed made in the United Kingdom in 1907 was $41,934,630. In 1906 there were employed in making knit goods composed of all textile materials in France, 56,700 persons. Commerce in Tcnitted goods. — ^The imports and exports of knit fabrics, including hosiery and other knitted articles, for leading countries are shown in Table 126. This table includes only knitted fabrics made wholly or in part of wool. Table 126. — Imports and exports of knit fabrics, including hosiery, knit gloves, leading countries in 1909 and 1910. etc., for 1909 1910 Country. Imports. Exports. Imports. Exports. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. United States Pounds. 326, .525 $398,412 2,256,105 294,882 462,355 356,718 145,551 277,044 1,416,718 PouTids. Pounds. 320,895 $391,283 2,700,304 311,066 558,156 377,874 176,141 316,913 2,052,681 Pounds. United Kingdom.... $6,653,338 6,724,690 1,041,298 338,262 685,439 309,610 88,1.51,475 Germany 269,182 307,762 448,876 109,128 170,636 7,892,468 779,767 371,096 648, 152 276,457 284.834 383.159 485,433 132.276 200,398 8.619,545 2,953,282 445.578 682,103 333,336 7,552,454 1,859,169 494,636 720.324 364,502 France Belgium Italy Austria-Hungary Canada 32080°— II. Doc. 342, 6^2, vol 1 11 162 RBPOBT OF TARIFF BOAItD ON SCHEDULE IL Germany appears in this table as the important exporting coimtrv. It must be remembered, however, that this table does not show the total exports and imports of knitted goods for the various foreign countries. It only gives the knit goods composed wholly or in part of wool, and since cotton is the predfominant material in this industry, these figures would be much larger if cotton knit goods were included. Imports of shawls. — The importa of shawls, both knitted and woven, into the United States for certain representative years are shown in Table 127: Tam-e 127.— Imports of MhawU, knitted or woven, entered for consumption into the United States. '"Fiscal year ending Itine3(>— ^900. 1910. 1911- Kmtc of duty. 45 per oeet or 50 per oemt 44 cents per pound find m per aent. do --■ do do Quantity. PoundM. 454,979 70,839 60,106 S,974 2S,il55 Valua. $446,762 76,573 65,7C1 35.036 48,306 Revenue derived. 1178,411 77,113 65,903 33,764 40,800 Ad Talorem rate of duty (ootn- puted). S9.ffi 100.71 100.22 96.40 84.46 1 Under the Wilson l>ilL Imports of other reuiy-made clothing. — The imports into the United States of ready-made clothing, heavy cloaks, and outer garments, and other articles of wearing apparel not already enumerated, are presented in Table 128. -Imports of read^-made clothing, chdhi, and other outer garments eniered /or consumption into the United States. Table 128. Wiatai. year ending June 30— Ii06> 1900- 906.. 1910. 1911. . Quantity. VSi'UHB* Fmmia. S40a.423 .349.555 3""^ one S3&M9 i07,S22 $740,740 88:?. 521 1.082.532 1,353.622 1.704.214 Revenue derived. $365,653 (i83.016 815,493 1.043.388 1,343,708 Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). 48.77 77.41 7S.33 74* ao 1 1'^nder the ^Vilson bill • 1 Does' not iiielude' chj-An, dolmatis, faetetR, talmaR. liBtera.oii other outside ^rraents tor ladles' awl Children's apparel to the value of $155,175:; revenue derived, $177,688; ad valorem rate of duty, 50. Production of ready-made clothing in the United States.— T\iQ produc- tion of ready-made clothmg, both for men's and women's wear, is very large in the United States. By far the greater per cent of woolen and worsted fabrics produced in this country are made up mto ready- made clothing before they reach the ultimate consumer. These gar- ments ar« produced cluefly in the large cities, both l)y women and men working in their homes on contract work or by tiie large ready- made clothing and cloak establishments. The census ligur«^ for wear- ing apparel do not designate whetlier the clothiiig is made from wool, cotton, or other textile fiber. We therefore can only enumerate the articles which are produced and give the total value of their product. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 163 The total value of men's clothing produced in the five cities men- tioned below in 1909 was $485,677,493. These products consisted of men's, boy's, and children's clothing, and such garments as overalls, market frocks, butcher's aprons, uniforms, bathiiig suits, knee pants, gymnasium and sporting clothing, etc. The chief cities engaged in the production oilmen's clothing are Rochester, N. Y., New York Oty, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Chicago.^ In these cities in 1909 the total value of women's clothing made up was $384,751,649. This clothing consisted of the following articles: Cloaks, capes, jackets, wrappers, slnrt waists, dresses, skui;s, cloak linings, imder- wear, mfants*^ clothing, dress stays, quilted linings, belts, dress shields, pleatings, apions, sleeves, petticoats, kimonas, dressing sacks, hose supporteis, and night robes. ^ Commerce in wearing apparel. — ^The imports and exports of woolen wearing apparel, not including knit goods, for leading foreign countries are presented in Table 129. It should be noted before examining this table that the figures for France and Belgium include wearing apparel made from other textiles than wool. This inclusion was made unavoidable by the classification of the statistics of those countries. Table 129. — Imports and exports of woolen wearing apparel {not including knit goods) Jor leading countries in 1909 and 1910. Country. United States United Kingdom. Germany France 1 Belgium ^ Italy A ustria-Hungary . Canada 1909 Iir ports. Quantity. Pounds 423, 574 273, 591 1,206,324 3,242,025 343, 477 112, 104 Value. $1,082,1% 4,232,906 415, 311 2,048,764 2,363,374 565,424 512.280 1,523,894 Exports. Quantity. Pounds. 7.418,699 7,916,992 5,075,038 191,139 1,317,028 Value. $1,420,125 11,387,766 9,501,198 28,076,150 2,368,474 317,929 2,047,168 1910 Imports. Exports. Quantity. Pounds. 574,080 281,307 1,431,667 3,450.046 408,512 113, 757 Value. $1,421,953 4,079,679 437.206 2,279,909 2,684,291 672.968 477, 186 1,677,791 Quantity, Pounds. Value. 8,551.423 12,066,658 6,a*i0.389 143,740 1,560,416 $1,555,184 14,596,673 11,300,002 33,625,811 2,810,108 239,088 2,405,051 » Woolen wearing apparel not separated from wearing apparel of other textiles, UNWOVEN FELTS. Process of felt malcing. — ^A felt is an unwoven fabric produced by matting or felting together hair or wool. It is a fiber fabric as dis- tinguished from a thread or woven fabric. Felting, a property peculiar to wool and to some hairs, causes the fiber to interlock and unite in the presence of moisture and heat. This property is duo to the curliness of the wool and the serrations on each fiber which assist in the interlocking. The process of making felts is the same as the carded woolen pro- cess through the carding operation. If wool is used, it is sorted and scoured and then mixed and blended with other materials, if desired; it then is scribbled and worked on the card. As it leaves the card it is distributed in gauze-like films, say 40 to 80 inches wide, one on top I For further particulars on wearing apparel, see p. 241, ='i;i I I ■ 164 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. of the other, until the thickness of the material reaches, say, 4 or 5 inches. This somewhat tender thickness of wool is now passed through an ironing process, consisting either of steam-heated rollers which have a rotary and vibrating motion, or a huge vibrating flat- iron under which the cloth is automatically fed. By this process the films of wool are pressed together. Finally, this layer of wool is sub- jected to the action of liquid soap, heat, and pressure — a process known as fulling — and here the actual felting takes place. The action of the heat, moisture, and pressure causes the wool mass to shrink and the fibers to unite with each other so that a firm fabric is {)roduced. Felts, on the one hand, are used for cheap clothing, end- ess belts, jackets for steam boilers, linings, carpets, and upholstery, and, on the other hand, the better grades are used for billiard tables, piano covers, hats, etc. Rate Off duty on felts. — ^The rate of duty on unwoven felts is 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem. There is no reason, from the point of view of either the industry or tariff classification, why felts should be subjected to the same rates as wearing apparel. The effect of the rates is to protect the domestic manufacturer of felts with (1) a compensatory duty which is adequate for the finest cloths and which compensates the American producer on the theory that he does or might use 4 pounds of greasy wool of class 1 in making a pound of felt ; and (2) an ad valorem rate of 60 per cent, which is 5 per cent higher than any other ad valorem rate levied by Schedule IT (except the duty on woolen small wares in paragraph 383, which is also 60 per cent). Imports of felts. — The imports of felts, not woven, into the United States for certam representative years are given in Table 130. Table 130. — Imports oj felts, not woven, entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). 18961 25 per cent, 30 per cent, 3& per cent, 45 per cent, or 50 per cent Pounds. 211,494 46.429 77.869 90.023 78.249 1144,792 64, 19G 91.410 107.018 96,892 •• $62,343 58.946 89.108 10:j,821 92,665 43.06 1900 1906 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent do 91.82 97.48 1910 do 97.01 1911 do 95.53 1 Under the Wflaon bill. The important fact to note in Table 130 is the average price of felts imported. Under the lower rates of the act of 1894 the cheaper felts could be profitably imported, and the imports for 1896 show the aver- age value per pound of the felts imported to have been 68 cents. Under the nigh rates of the acts of 1897 and 1909 the average value per pound was over $1. In 1900 it was $1.38; in 1905, $1.17; in 1910, $1.19; and in 1911, $1.23. These values indicate that only the best felts are imported under the present rates, and the cheaper grades are barred by tnem. The importation of even the highest qualities, as shown in Table 130, is small, and the computed ad valorem rate on these is just over 95 per cent of their value. BEPOET OF TABIFF BOAED OK SCHEDULE K. 165 Productwn of felt goods in the UnUed StaUs.-A. good-sized mdustnr « SSted by the duties on felts. In 1909 there were 43 estabMi- menTs i^ the%nited States engaged in producing ff g^^d?.;^*^ » SaUf $12,754,833. The P^'^^-.^'^Pl^^d^Oe and the v^re of ferZtltS^^^^ the United States is presented m Table 131. Table 131. -Felt goods produced by the felt industry in the UnUed States, 1899-1909. Total value. 1909 111,852,626 Felt cloths: Square yards " Trimmingsand lining felts, felt skirts, etc.: Square yards - Value Saddle felts: Pounds Value Endless belts: I 3,243,034 1809 16,461,691 Per cent of increase 1899-1909. 3,754,468 $1,381,854 5,953,410 $1,329,686 1,650,991 $575,849 Pounds. Value Boot and shoe linings: Square yards Value Hair felting: Square yards Value • All other felts, value All other i)roducts, value. $3,417,822 1,661,090 $514,456 1.159,999 $331,045 $3,549,876 $552,038 2,056,002 $548,543 2,469,830 $796,718 1,114,357 $1,084,835 1,052,538 $540,110 125,000 $56,950 $2,261,918 $1,172,617 83.43 82.61 151.91 I 191.02 215.05 57.82 M.75 828.00 832.48 56.94 152.92 1 Decrease. Table 131 shows that the total value^of the products of the felt- goods hidust^ increased, from 1899 to 1909, 83 43 Per cent. Kelt Sloth produced increased 82.61 per cent m quantity and 151.91 per cent in value. Trimmings and Immg felts and felt skirts, etc. , and saddle flits were aU included together m 1899, but saddle felts are SvS separaXfrom the others & 1909. The endless belts nicreased Eg tFie decaL in production 191.02per cent m 6,307,tiOUlS4,tiO» "1,154,168 «2,W1,536 ' »713,36» « 922, 625 '990,596 '1.893,310 » 4,819,418 « 322, 533 {' 1910 Imporfj. Exports. Quantity. Value. « 90, 023 •625,332 1,505,410 « 149,031 •781,483 •291,007 •640,007 •765,658 •71,561 •268,741 $107,018 319,062 d, 845, 928 608,125 o3v, 4y6 ' 320,110 Quantify. 406 S5 •7,785, [•1,208,915 i» 2,853, 634 • 760, 100 •947,537 !• 1,011,491 i« 2, 136,478 1*6,862,204 L •430,338 Value. 1,585,428 k2, 044, 182 893,970 1,700,867 i4, 121,996 t Hot including fez cape. • rounds. •Hats. Paragraph 383.— WOOL SMALL WARES. Webbing, gorings, suspenders, braces, bandings, beltings, bindings, braids, gal- loons, edgings, inseriings, flouncings, fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, ribbons, ornaments, fiicee, trimmings, and articles made wnoUy or in part of lace, embroideries and all articles embroidered by hand or machinery, head nets, nettings, but- tons or barrel buttons or buttons of other forms for tassels or ornaments, and manu- factures of wool ornamented with beads or spangles of whatever material composed, any of the foregoing made of wool or of which wool is a component material, whether containing india rubber or not, fifty cento per pound and sixty per centum ad valorem. aamificaiion under ^^5.— Paragraph 383 provides rates (1) on small wares, sometimes spoken of as passementeries, made wholly or in part of wool, and (2) on ''manufactures of wool ornamented with beads or spangles of whatever material composed." The only appar- ent reason for the exhaustive enumeration of smaU wares here would seem to be to prevent the enumerated articles from coming in under the lower duties of the ''blanket*' provision of paragraph 378, which provides for unspecified manufactures of wool. Artides defined, — Below are defined the various articles and materials mentioned in paragraph 383. Webbing is a stout, close- woven tape, intended to be used where heavy strains are carried. Banding and binding are narrow strips of cloth used to strengthen or ornament garments. Galloon is also a narrow tape-like binding or trimming used to edgje and border cloth, especially a bordering or binding of rich material, such as gold or silver, as well as wool. Edging is lace or embroideiy used for trimming the edges of gar- ments. Belting is material used for making belts. Goring is mate- rial used for making gores; i. e., tapering or triangular pieces of cloth used to insert in a garment to give it a tapering effect or a varying width. Gimp is a flat trimming, often stiffened with wire, used for borders of curtains, furniture, etc. Cord is a general name for strands of textile material twisted into a small rope. Inserting is lace, embroidery, or needlework made to be inserted in plain material to omanaent it. Flouncing is used to make flounces; i. e,, strips of material which are sewed on by their edge and left hanging with a full effect, as on the bottom of a skirt. Ornaments and trmimings are general terms used to cover anything that might have escaped enumeration. Astrakhan trimmings and epaulots have been made BEPOBT OF TARLFP BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 167 dutiable under this designation. Tassels are pendent ornaments consisting generally of a roundish mold covered with twisted thread. Fringe is an ornamental border consisting of loose threads or strips attached to a band of the same material as the fringe. Paragraph 383 includes also netting, braids, ribbons, buttons, and embroideries. These articles are now made both by hand and by machinery. The term netting covers numerous open-meshed fabrics such as veils and is a general term which includes all forms of net-like materials. The making of braids is an extensive industry. They are produced on power machines which are adapted to making flat, tubular, stripe, or lace braids. The buttons mentioned in this para- frapli are those covered with cloth made m whole or in part of wool, he covering of the buttons is cut with a die and mallet and then fastened to the metal or material which forms the foundation of the button. Embroidery is a series of ornamental designs made by needlework. They are made both by hand and by machinery. Elastic materials, including both india rubber and wool, are classified under paragraph 383. Many of the articles mentioned in tliis paragraph, such as ribbons, braids, laces, etc., represent important branches of the textile indus- try. As a rule, however, cotton, silk, and other textile materials are used in making small wares or passementeries more extensively than wool, and unless wool is chief value in small wares imported they are not dutiable under this section. Duties on small wares. — The rate of duty on small wares made wholly or in part of wool and on manufactures of wool ornamented with small wares is 50 cents per pound and 60 per cent. The com- pensatory duty of "50 centsper pound" is a survival of the plirase- ology of the act of 1867. Wlien that act was framed it was stated that 53.35 cents was necessary to compensate the manufacturer for the increased price of his materials due to the tariff. (See p. 102.) In the act of 1867 the compensatory duty on small wares was "50 cents per pound." ' In later acts the compensatory duty on cloths was fixed at 44 cents per pound, but the compensatory duty on small wares was raised to 60 cents per pound in 1890 and. reduced to 50 cents per pound in 1897 and 1909. The probable purpose in fixing this duty liigher on small wares than on cloths was the possibility that in making the former there might be more waste than in making the latter. If the theory of fixing the compensatorv duties on the basis of the maximum amount of material that might be used in any article within a given classification be once admitted, 50 cents per pound is not too high on small wares. In making a pound of fine all-wool ribbons, laces, or nettings 4y«j- pounds of high-shrinking wools of class 1 midit be used. It is needless to say that these cases are excep- tional. As a general rule the compensatory rate in paragraph 383 is much more than is necessary for compensation. In the first place small wares are frequently made in part of other materials than wool. 1 hey contain cotton, india rubber, metal, and other like materials winch require no compensation whatever. The wool used, in the second place, in braids, webbings, covers for buttons and the Hke, never shrinks from greasy wool to finished product as much as the compensatory duty of paragraph 383 assumes. The best braid wools are the long English wools and also mohair. These not only slirink W' M 168 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. lightly, but when washed the duty on them is not doubled as in the case of class 1 wools. (See p. 47.) Imports ofsmaU wares. — ^The imports of small wares of wool and manufactures of wool trimmed with small wares into the United States for certain representative years is given in Table 133. Table 133. -Imports of small wares of wool and manufactures of wool trimmed vrUh small wareSj entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal rear ending June 30— Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue . derived. Advalorem rate of duty (computed.) 18961 50 Der cent $114,104 113,542 25,318 77,162 74,718 $57,052 88,069 18,564 67,175 63,331 50.00 190O 50 cents per pound and 60 per cent 50 cents per pound and 60 per cent 50 cents per pound and 60 per cent 50 cents per pound and 60 per cent 39,927 6,761 41,756 36,999 77.68 1905 73.32 1910 1911 87.06 84.79 1 Under the Wilson bill. The average value per pound of the manufactures dutiable under paragraph 383 in 1910 was $1.99; in 1911, $2.02. Subtracting the nominal protective duty of 60 per cent from the computed ad valorem duty, we find that the compensatory duty in 1910 on these goods amounted to 27.06 per cent of their value, and in 1909 to 24.76 per cent of their value. The imports of these materials are very small; the average value comparatively hidi. Production of small wares in the united States. — The production of small wares of wool in the United States is not large enough to justify the census in making it a separate branch of the wool manufactures. Cotton small wares, however, are classified separately. In 1904 this industry used only 8,000 pounds of woolen yarn and 21,173 pounds of worsted yarn. " The cloth buttons produced in the United States in 1904 amounted to 2,990,750 gross, valued at $766,091, but the material from which they were made is not specified. Production of small wares in the United Kingdom. — In 1907 the United Kingdom produced $520,716 worth of wool and mohair braid, laces, and small wares. Production of small wares in France. — France is a very important country in the production of small wares, but her statistics mclude the small wares of all textile materials together. The number of pereons employed in making small wares, including ribbons, etc., of silk, wool, cotton, and other materials in 1906 was 48,350. Commerce of leading countries in small wares. — The imports and exports of certain leadmg countries in small wares of wool is presented in Table 134. I 1 BEFORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 169 Table 134. — Imports and exports of woolen small wares for leading countries in 1909 and 1910. Country. United States United Kingdom.... Germany France Belgium Italy Austria-Hungary. . . . 1909 Imiwrts. Quantity Pounds. 18,409 13,669 115,217 28,307 38, 797 60,847 Value. $36,664 209,332 16,660 70,256 16,568 56,141 68,639 Exports. Quantity. Pounds. 57,540 1,395,565 514 257,535 225,310 Value. $1,929,042 56,882 1,726,559 470 338,777 177,203 1910 Imports. Quantity Pounds. 41,756 11,243 109,128 31,513 44,985 61,971 Value. $77,162 69,810 11,662 64,462 18,947 66,219 82,156 Exports. Quantity. Pounds. 61,588 1,646,616 481 297,802 267,418 Value. $2,392,566 52,838 1,424,340 477 390,409 aB8,3oa CARPETS DUTIABLE UNDER SCHEDULE K. Paragraphs 384 to 393, inclusive, of the act of August 5, 1909, fix the duties on the various grades of carpets and rugs. Before considering each paragraph in detail, certain facts and figures relating to carpets m general must be set down. Compensatory duties on carpets in 1867. — Compensatory duties appear on carpets and carpetmgs for the first time in the act of March 2, 1867. With carpets a new principle for fixing these duties is introduced into Schedule K. Since carpets are made from the coarse class 3 wools, the compensatory duties could no longer be based on the amount of class 1 wool used in a given unit of carpet. In 1867 a substantial duty was levied on carpet wools, not to pro- tect their production in the United States, for this was small, but both for revenue purposes and because the woolgrowers feared that they would be used in clothing and thereby supplant domestic wool. The duty fixed in 1867 on third-<;lass wool valued at 12 cents and less was 3 cents per pound and valued over 12 cents per pound, 6 cents (present law is 4 and 7 cents). In addition to this, the manu- facturers desired compensation on linen and tow yams and on chemicals used. Representatives of five large carpet establish- ments therefore made a report to the United States revenue com- mission in 1866 in which they stated the compensatory rates that they thought were then necessary on the chief grades of carpets which they then produced. The results of their report are summed up in Table 135. 170 1 i lEPOKT OP TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEBULE K. Tabui 1Z5.~ Compensatory dut'm on carpets. {Table showing the araoont of duties and chanres on me materialfl n«.ri in f t,- «,„«.,# * • and a square yard of the leading varieties ofSrneS thn f«5.^j«n! «?SaV* * . "manufacture of a runnin, by decimals.] *^ vanouea oi ourpets, tue fracliona of cents and of ounces being expresse Itema. Ingrain carpets. Tapestr r carpets printed on the warp. Carpets wrought by the Jacquard machine. Two-ply. Three- ply. Brussels. Velvet. Brussels. Wilton. Neutralizing duties and charg«s: Dut iea on the wools used €mt9, 11.70 Cents. Ctnts. Cents. 17.71 8 4.50 Cents. 24.92 3 Cents. Duties on the linen or tow yarn 19. ifia ii.au 6 3 39.36 Duties on drugs and other imported matetiils. 2 2.50 8 4 1 otai of neutralizing duties Ciiargea on account of duties, id per 13.70 1.37 17.73 1.77 20.80 2.08 30.21 3.02 33.92 3.30 51.36 Total of neutraliting duties and charges, per running yard . 5.13 15.07 15.07 19.50 19.50 22.88 30.50 33.23 44.31 37.31 49.75 Total of neutralizing duties and charges, per square yard 54.49 75.32 ^tlt neutral^ing duties per square yard of each of the specified kinds of carpets m Table 135 were used as the basis for the Jompem^Jv duties in the act of 1867. In tlieory they put the manufStr S ^Ai^f^r^ III ^ ""^^^^"^ *of t^e compensation for wool.Unen and tow yam, and chemicals, a charge of 10 ner cent is hA.La t^ £ ridTc^tL^'he "sjTare-ya'&b^^^^^^ three-fourths of a ya^ S ' ^ ''''^^ ^^'^ *^^ "^"""^ ^^"^ It was stated by the committee that in the making of ingrain car- pets the combed or worsted yam forms the warp and\3eTvam made from the nods the fillmg of the carpet, i^r this reW^?h^ f^n^t^ R* ^ f '** Y'^^^g i'^^i"^ "« P"e carpets In^akW are waste, and tlierefore more wool is needed. Tow and Unen varn are also used for making the foundation of these camets ^ Manujacturer 8 statement oflmo duties were Jlxed.—The followinff m a detailed statement by the committee of 1866 of how the a)m3«i^ toiy duties on carpets in Table 135 were fix^ compensa- the duty^n the wool in th^ finThed ^^^sT9%T^nU ^^^^ZT'JlT^ *M to 0.585 cent per ounce. Three dollarsfthe duty o„Tw MunWurw^Ln ^''"f divided by 32 pounds of carpets, givej the S LSt We n^L^^.f^l'':"?.'' triiich multi^^bvO^djn.^.h! Y 7*'^''' °" *" ^'"''^''' 20 ounces per yard, of A on"'ri.tl'^uSor'a%'7tCpTc%^^^^^ '''' ^^^'^ ^ »'"' ^"^^ A Ko-T'V^.^^^f^ ^®^^^' ^^ ^ average, 26 ounces pcr'yard which multinliprl h.r ^^^ed L^y^d^Jf ?hre:!pT;'4e1.^^-^^ '=«"*^ ^ ^« ^o^t Sft ty-on gfw^^ KEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Tavestrv carpets and carpds wrought by the Jacquard machine.— The wools of which these carpeta are made consist, on an average, of 1 part of Canada combing wool to 4 parts of Cordova or other similar wool paying a like duty, the Canada wool being required for certain colore. , , ,« x j i v.- t. The duty on Canada wool is 12 cents per pound and 10 per cent ad valorem, which 13 equal to 16.50 cents per pound, and, as 2 pounds of wool are required for 1 pound of worsted, it follows that the duty on the wool in the worsted amounts to 33 cents per pound. , . i i « j The duty on Cordova and other suitable wools is 6 cents per pound, and, as 3 pounds of such wools are required to make 1 pound of worsted, it follows that the duty on the wool in the worsted amounts to 18 cents per pound. Now, as 4 pounds of this worsted are used to 1 pound of the Canada, the average amount of duty paid on the wool in the worsted used is as follows: Four pounds of Cordova, etc., worsted, at 18 cents per pound, 72 cents; 1 pound of Canada worsted, at 33 cents per pound, 33 cents; 5 pounds divided into 105 cents gives 21 cents per pound. Average duty on the wool for 1 pound of worsted, 21 cents per pound, is equal to 1.312 cents per ounce. Tapestry Brussels carpeta of standard quality require 9 ounces of worsted per run- ning yard, which, multiplied by 1.312 cent^, the duty per ounce, gives 11.80 cents as the amount of duty on the wool used for a yard of tapestry Brussels carpet. Tapestry velvet carpets of standard quality require 13.50 ounces of worsted per runnmg yard, which, multiplied by 1.312 cents, the duty per ounce, gives 17.71 cents as the anount of duty on the wool used for a yard of tapestry velvet carpet. Brussels carpets, five-frame, of standard quality, wrought by the Jacquard machine, require 19 ounces of worsted per running yard, which, multiplied by 1.312 cents, the duty per ounce, gives 24.92 cents as the amount of duty on the wool used for a yai'd of this kind of carpeting. Wilton carpets, five-frame, of standard quality, wrought by the Jacquard machine, require 30 ounces of worsted per running yard, which, multiplied by 1.312 cents, the duty per ounce, gives 39.36 cents as the amount of duty on the wool used for a yard of tnis kind of carpeting. Duties on the linen yam. — Linen yam, of the quality used in the manufacture of the carpets above designated, costs abroad, on an average, 23 cents j^er pound, on which the 30 per cent duty amounts to 6.90 cents per pound; and if, in addition to this, wo mako the usual allowance for the waste of the yam in working it, the amount of the duty on a pound of linen yam in the carpet will be at least 8 cents per pound. Now, as tai>estry velvets and Wilton carpets each require 1 pound of linen yam per running yard, the duty on the linen yarn for these carpets will be 8 cents per yard; and, as tapestry Brussels carpets and Brussels carpets wrought by the Jacquard machine each require only three-fourths of a pound of linen -yam per mnning yard, the duty on the linen yam for these carpets will be 6 cents per yard. Changes in carpet compensatory duties since 1867. — The duty on class 2 wools valued over 32 cents per pound in 1867 was 12 cents per pound and 10 per cent ad valorem; under the present law it is 12 cents per pound on all class 2 wools. In 1867 the duty on class 3 wools valued at 12 cents or less was 3 cents per pound and valued over 12 cents per pound 6 cents per pound. These duties are now 4 and 7 cents, respectively. Three of the compensatory rates — those on Brussels, velvet, and tapestry Brussels carpets — are the same in the present law as they were in the law of 1867. Two others — those on Aubusson, etc., carpets and on rugs — have been introduced since 1867, and the remaining compensatory duties on carpets have under- gone slight changes. Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, chenille, and Wilton carpets were given their present rate of 60 cents per square yard in 1890. At this time druggets were also given their present rate. In 1897 the compensatory rate on rugs was fixed at 90 cents per square yard and the rates on ingrain carpets were also given their present form. For the purpose of comparison, the changes in the carpet compensatory duties since 1867 are presented in Table 136. i H 172 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDtJLB K. Tabib l^.—Compmmtory duties on carpets and carpetings in the iarif acts from 1867 to 1909. Kind of carpet Compensatory duties, in cents per square yard, imdcr the act of— Aubusson, Axminstcr, moquette, and chenille carpets.. W il ton carpets Brussels carpets Velvet and tapestry velvet carpets Tapestry Brussels carpets Treble ingrain carpets. 2-pIy ingrain carpets Hugs of every description Druggets and bockings 1867 1883 70 10 28 17 12 25 45 45 30 25 20 12 8 45 15 1880 60 60 44 40 28 19 14 60 22 1897 60 60 44 40 28 22 18 90 22 1900 «0 60 44 40 28 22 18 90 22 Total imports of carpets and rugs. — The total imports of carpets and rugs into tne United States for certain representative years are pre- sented in Table 137. Table 1^7.— Imports of carpets and rugs of all kinds entered for consumption into thi United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). 1896 1 Sq. ifards. $2,025,317 2.552,620 2,909,092 4,619,170 3,887,734 $805,580 1,675,696 1,831,572 2,802,212 2,399,369 89.79 65.65 62.96 60.66 61.72 1900. . : 820, 731 814,389 1.143,163 1,011,525 1906 1910 1911 * Under the Wilson bill. The average value of carpets imported in 1910 was $4.04 per square yard, and in 1911 $3.84 per square yard. The imports are composed chiefly of oriental and other high-class rugs, as the average values above shown would indicate. Carpets such as compete directly with those produced in the United States are imported only in negligible quantities. If we take the nominal protective rate of 40 per cent from the computed ad valorem rate we find that the compensatory duty in 1910 on all carpets amounted to 20.66 per cent of the value of those imported, and in 1911 to 21.72 per cent of the value of those imported. Imports of carpets and carpetings hy countries. — Imports of carpets and carpetings into the United States, by countries, for certain repre- sentative years are presented in Table 138. « BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 173 Table IZS.—Imports of carpets and carpetings, hy countries, entered for immediMe con- sumption and for warehouse into the United States. Country of origin. 1896 1900 AustrlarHungary.. France Germany Ottoman Empire, including Egypt and Bulgaria — United Kingdom., British East In- dies Persia Russian Empire... Other countries... Quan- tity. Sq.yds. 509 12,193 34,170 42,286 521,337 4,688 <'} (') 11,414 Value. $1,392 30,421 51,700 115,651 675,148 12,640 6,992 Quan- tity. Sq.yds 2,077 10,057 4,186 521,941 279,428 45,491 23,350 17,766 Value. $11,512 30,074 18,288 1,784,816 643,284 166,181 51,992 42,646 1905 Quan- tity. Sq. yds. 9,912 14,967 13,106 609,860 178,102 40,658 0) 10,450 41,795 Value. $44,049 52,828 44,148 2,047,099 405,846 126,762 25,326 131,935 1910 Quan- tity. Sq. yds 25,215 18,264 27,776 753,337 150,308 33,559 156,426 31,322 9,775 Value. $111,859 72, 185 76,704 3,287,340 371,696 99,247 437,673 93,718 41,299 1911 Quan- tity. Sq. yds 28,953 28,621 19,836 407,408 138,766 37,600 281,601 62,381 8,576 Value. $135,797 95,127 65,558 1,900,870 393,131 101,451 944,561 140,586 30,724 1 Not given separately. In this table it should be noted in particular that by far the largest imports are from the Ottoman Empire and Persia, wliich shows con- clusively that oriental rugs make up the majority of the imports of carpetings into this country. r„ , , . „^ ^ xt. Exports of carpets from the United States.— T&hle 139 presents the exports of carpets of domestic manufacture, by countries, from the United States. As compared with the size of the industry m this country and the possibility of foreign markets, the exports are exceed- ingly small. They became so small in 1911 that they were mcluded in **A11 other manufactures" of wool. Table 139.- -Exports of carpets of domestic manufacture, hy countries, from tJie United States. Country of destina- tion. United Kingdom... Bermuda Canada Mexico British Australasia. . . Alaska Hawaii Porto Rico Other countries .... 1896 1900 Quantity. Yards. 248,067 210 39,074 2,114 3,952 Value. Quantity. $161,796 75 18,957 1,598 2,088 49,051 40,693 Yards. 94,432 168 8,242 3,716 26,830 Value. $76,475 143 6,331 2,954 15,842 275 12,450 159 13,148 1905 19101 Quantity. Yards. 9,904 1,047 1,725 19,321 21,613 18,173 2,499 4,948 23,262 Value. $10,321 1,025 1,260 14,973 16,261 13,864 2,665 4.607 20,801 Quantity. Yards. 6,664 5,947 9,184 11,786 10,683 26,336 14,407 11,841 11,232 Value. $8,559 6,277 10,527 10,943 9,664 25,009 15,350 11,094 11,182 • 1 Included in "All other manufactures of" after 1910. Carpet industry in tie United States.— In 1909 there were 139 estab- lishments in the United States producing carpets and rugs, with a capital of $75,627,010. These establishments employed 33,307 wage earners, used materials valued at $39,458,308, and produced goods valued at $71,188,152. The increase in the value of products durmg the last decade was 47.71 per cent.* 1 See page 232 for further particulars regarding the carpet industry. 174 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OM SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 175 fill II pPf Produdion &f carpets in the United Kingdom, — In 1907 the United Kingdom projuced 26,159,000 yards of carpets valued at $16,239,511 and 3,859,000 square yards of rugs valued at $2,949,099 and 178,000 rugs, returned by number, valued at $179,526. Fersons employed in carpet industry in France and Germany, — Per- sons employed in Germany in 1907 in making carpets numbered 4,614. In 1906 there were 7,500 persons employed in the manufacture of carpets in France. Commerce in carpets for leading forei^/n countries, — The imports and exports of carpets and rugs for certain leading foreign countries is given in Table 140. Table 140. — Imports and exports of carpets and rugs of wooly for leading countrieSf in 1909 and 1910. Country. United States United Kingdom... Germany fnmce Bdglmn Italy Austria-Hungary. . . Russia Persia.. Ottoman Empire *. Canada* XvUif Imports. Eiqwrts. 1010 Imports. Quantity. Pounds. 1988,000 11,544,003 2,012,800 / 261,906 \U76,285 421,254 697,976 1.315.484 A f Uif/ fi «««uf5 41,165 M ,382, 300 Vahie. $3, 748. 2,7tK). } 771, 211, 360, 956, 614, 15, 5.5(1 035 246 463 527 512 191 182 785 950,603 Quantity Pounis. 167,088 16,844,600 3.931,463 ri. 548,511 I U,263 472.415 14,091 732.809 2.2SS.901 6,599,781 Value. 166. 6.S3 4,282.038 1,810,228 \ 690,044 « 164, 939 5,250 297,363 1,015,358 4,358,664 Quantity. Pounds. il,143,l(i3 11,660.9 2,388,404 " 268,9*31 1211.936 531,. S97 788.365 1,794,765 { s 1,996, 289 Value. «4, 2, 2, 1, 619,170 954. 7»>8 224,686 900,538 29o. 098 407,199 480,629 1,334,534 Exports. Quantity Pounds. 155,496 19,071,400 4,151.262 1,814,380 15,289 529,585 15,212 823,859 { Value. ) S57,152 6,389.082 1,874,012 845,533 180,483 5,327 361, 162 » Square yards. > Includes tapestry. * For exprts from Ottoman Empire, see Table 156. « Tliese figures do not Include mats and rags, for which vahie only was glTcn, as follows: In 1909, $296,394; to 1910. $414,874. •Yards. Paragraph 384.— AITBXTSSON", AXHINSTEB, MOQXTETTE, AND CHENILLE CABPETS. Aubusson, Axminster, moqiiette, and clienille carpets, fibred or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or de-scription, sixty cents per square yard and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Making Auhisson and Axminster carpets. — ^The carpets dutiable under paragraph 384 are of high quality. Aubusson and the original Axminster caipets are fine hand-made tufted carpets. The former, bearing the name of the city in France where it is made, is wrought on a tapestry loom in one |)iet o and in imitation of Indian Carpets; the latter, named for the citj in England where it was first made, is a tufted carpet made in miitation of oriental rugs. In making the Aubusson carpets the warp is mounted on the tapestry frame and the weft is inserted by the weaver's hand. The body is woven until the weaver comes to the figure, when another yam of the ap- propriate color is chosen and inserted. The Savoimene carpets^ niaae on a high warp tapestry loom, may bo classed in q^uality with Au- busson carpets. In making the nand-made Axminster the wara is mounted on a large beam. Before the loom sit the weavers. eacL »1 of whom has a part of the fabric to weave. Each weaver hAs his pattern before him, guided by which he chooses the appropriate yam and ties it to the warp strand, and then cuts the end of the yarn so as to leave tufts erect on the carpet. When one row of tufts is complete, a strong filling thread is used to bind the carpet together. Each tuft of wool goes throuo^h to the back of the carpet, so that a hand-made Axminster will last tmtil worn completely through, , _ Mogmtte carpets. — Moquette and chenille carpets are machine-made in imftation of carpets like the Axminster and other fine-tufted fab- rics. The moquette carpet is peculiarly an American product and is made by an ingenious power loom wliich ties the tufts of wool iuto the warp in a way similar to the fingers of the hand weaver. The term Axminster is now used generally to designate this and similar carpets and is so used in the classification of the United States census. Tliey really should be spoken of as machine-made Axminsters to distinguish them from the finer handmade carpets of that name. Moquette and machine-made Axminster carpets consist of a ribbed back of coarse vegetable material and a deep tufted pile of wool. The warp to wliich the tufts are fastened and the body warp which gives body to the carpet are drawn taut on tlie loom: another warp is mounted with these but left looser so that it will weave round the weft thiead. The yam for ma k in g the tufts is mounted on spools opposite where it is to enter the fabric. When the loom is in motion the tufting yarn is seized and caiiied down under the tufting warp and then, while being held in place, a knife cuts the yarn so as to leave two ends of yarn to form a part of the gro"v\Tiig pile of the carpet. CTieniUe carpets. — Chenille -carpets are woven with a stout vege- table fiber yam as warp and a chenille filling. Chenille is a com- paratively thick fringed rope which resembles a caterpillar. The making of chenille is an independent weaving operation. A fabric is first woven with the binding warps an inch or more apart. It is then cut midway between these warps and the ends of the filling yarn are left projectmg with the warp yarn as their center. This soft, velvety cord is now used in a loom as the filling for chenille carpets or Smyrna rugs. The chenille forms both the back and face of the carpet and gives it the appearance of the oriental rug. Mate of duty on Aubusson, etc., carpets. — The rate of duty on Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille carpets is 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem. A compensatory rate was first levied on these carpets in 1883. It was then fixed at 45 cents per square yard. In the acts of 1890, 1897, and 1909 the compen- satory rate was fixed at the same rate as on Wiltons, i. e., 60 cents per square yard. In general, the 60 cents per square yard paid on these carpets when imported is reputed to compensate the domestic manufacturer for the increase in the price of liis wool, vegetable fiber, and chemicals, due to the tarilf on these materials. The nominally protective duty is 40 per cent ad valorem. Imports of Aubusson, etc., carpets. — The imports of Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille carpets into the United States for certain reT)resentative years is sliown in Table 141. The average value of the carpets dutiable under paragraph 383 in 1896 was S2.46 per square yard; in 1900, $2.61 per square yard; in 1905, $2.04 per f M ill 11 176 BEPOBT OP TAKIFF BOAKD ON 8CH1:DUI.E K. square yard; in 1910, $2.71 per square yard; and m 1911, $1.92 per square yard. The imports are comparatively small, and the com- puted rates range between 60 and 70 per cent ad valorem. The rates act to prevent the importation of the cheaper grades of carpets. Table Ul.—ImpoHs ofAuhumm, Axminster, moquette, and chenille carpets entered into the United States for consumplvyn. Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896 ». 1900.. 1905.. 1910.. 1911.. Rate of duty. 40 per cent -;•■:;« ;' 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do do do Quantity. Square fd». 105,378 10, 159 18,748 23,065 24,351 Value. 1258,975 26,504 38,178 62,700 46,935 Revenue derived. $103,590 16,697 26,520 38,931 33,385 Ad vatorem rate of duty (com- puted). 40.00 63.00 69.46 62.09 71.13 1 Includes rugs. Vnder the Wilson bill. Production of AxmimUr and moqueUe carpets.-^The production of machine-made Axminster and moquette carpets m the Umted btates in 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 142. Table l42,-'Production of macMne-made Axminster and moquette carpets in the United States.^ . 1909 1899 Per cent of increase, , 1899-1909. 12,507,261 $13,680,806 5,026,778 $4,762,260 148.81 187.27 DuuaTe yaras. ValiiA V aiuo ......--•••••••••••••-••••••• • Includes rugs made by sewing strips ot carpet together. The average value of these carpets produced in the United States is much lower than the average value of the carpets unported under the paragraph now under discussion. In 1899 the average value per squ^e yird was 95 cents; in 1909, $1.09. Table 142 shows that the production of Axminster and moquette c?^f ^ "icrea^d 148 81 per cent in quantity and 187.27 per cent m value between 1899 and 1909. Paragraphs 386 and 386.-BBTISSELS AND WILTON CABPETS. or description, forty-four cents per square yard and m addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Carpets of 385 and 386 defined.— Bm^n and Wilton carpets are amoni the ^est made by machinery. A Brussels carpet has a veee- table-lber back with a worsted warp raised on it m the form of a looped pile. A Wilton carpet is structurally the same as Brussels, except tliat the pile mstead of bemg left m loops is cut so as to leave the wool fibers erect on the body of the carpet. This gives the Wilton a deep, plush-Uke surface. More wool is requu-edm the pile of a Wnton than in the pile of a Brussels carpet and it is therefore more BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 01^ SCHEDULE K. 177 valuable. A Saxony carpet is Wilton carpet made in oriental pat- terns. A Toumay velvet carpet is a fine quality of tapestry velvet carpet discussed on page 179. Processes of making Brussels and Wiltons. — ^A Brussels carpet haa two warps. The one is the basis of the back or foundation of the fabric and is made of coarse vegetable fiber; the other consists of worsted and forms the surface of the carpet. The warps are mounted on spools at the back of the loom, a separate spool bemg usually devoted to each color in the surface warp. These warp yarns are fed into the loom and there the surface warp is controlled in the weaving operation by a device known as the Jacquard attachment. While tills device is complicated in mechanism, it is simple in opera- tion. It mechanically selects certain warp threads and raises or lowers them according to the pattern to be woven, and it makes it possible to weave varied and complicated designs which would be impossible on an ordinary loom. The warp yarns which are raised in the shedding motion are woven over wires, and when these wires are withdrawn to be reioserted mechanically again before the growing body of carpet they leave the loops of worsted bound firmly mto the back of the carpet by means of a linen or cotton weft. Stated in another way: The looped and yielding pile of a Brussels carpet is produced by interruptmg the worsted warp and forcing it to loop Itself over wires which are subsequently withdrawn. The weaving of the vegetable foundation of the carpet goes on simultaneously with the surface weaving. The number of frames, as the tiers of spools of warp at the back of the loom are called, determines the number of colors that can appear in the surface of the carpet in anv one straight line. If each frame contains one color, the number of colors in the carpet is determined by the number of frames. If the frames contain more than one color each, there still can be no more colors in exactly a straight line in the carpet than there are frames. The number of frames is one of the factors which determines quality in Brussels and Wiltons; the more frames, the higher the quahty. The Wilton is made like the Brussels, except that when the wires are withdrawn from under the loops formed in the surface warp a knife attached to the end of the wire cuts the loops and leaves the worsted standing erect on the foundation of the carpet. This velvety surface is then leveled by shearing. Duties on Brussels and Wiltons, — ^The rate of duty on Brussels carpet imported into the United States is 44 cents per square yard and 40 per cent, and on Wilton carpet 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. The compensatory duty on Wiltons (60 cents per square yard) is higher than on Brussels carpet (44 cents per square yard) because more wool is employed in the making of the pile of the former than of the latter. The pile on Wiltons is longer and has more fibers of wool in a given area than Brussels carpet. The loops in the pile of the Brussels enables the manufacturer to cover the surface of the carpet by employing less wool. Imports ofjBrussds carpet, — ^The imports of Brussels carpet into the United States for certain representative years is presented in Table 143. 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 ^12 Ml IM ■ I 178 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 14Z.— Imports ofBrvmeh carpets entered for consumption into the United Statei. Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896". 1900.. 1905.. 1910.. 1911.. Rate of duty. 40 per cen t 44 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do do do. Quantity. Sq. vardM. 138,4^8 28,388 13,223 6,782 5,S07 Value. $143, 165 30,299 14,705 8,222 7,567 Revenue derived. $57,266 24,010 11,700 6,273 5,450 Ad valo- rem rate of duty (cora- putedj. 40.00 81.22 79.57 76.30 72.02 1 Under the Wilson bill. The average value per square yard of Brussels carpet imported in 1896 was $1.03; in 1900, $1.07; in 1905, $1.11; in 1910, $1.21; in 1911, $1.37. The imports of these carpets into the United States are negligible, as the table shows. Imports of Wilton carpet. — The imports of Wilton and similar car- pets mto tKe United States for certam representative years is shown m Table 144. Table 144.— Imports of Samny, Wilton, and Toumay velvet carpets entered for con- sumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 18961. 1900.. 1905.. 1910.. 1911.. Rate of duty. 40 per cent 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do do do Quantity. 8q. ynrda. 85,832 54,938 25,381 20.451 17,204 Value. $128,^57 89,773 44,690 40,711 40,183 Revenue derived. $51,223 68,872 33,104 28,555 26,396 Ad valo- rem rate of duty (com- puted). 40.00 76.72 74.07 70.14 65.09 I Under the Wilson bill. The average value of the Wilton carpets imported into the United States is higher than the average value of the Brussels carpets imported. The average value per square yard of Wilton carpets imported in 1896 was $1.49; in 1900, $1.69; in 1905, $1.76; in 1910, $1.99; and in 1911, $2.33. The importsof these carpets is also small. Production of Brussels carpet in the United States, — The production of Brussels carpet in the Umted States for 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 145. Table 145. — Frodwtion of Brussels carpet in the United States.^ Square yards. Value 1900 3,960,626 $5,216,607 1890 2,686,493 $2,979,867 Per cent of increase, 47.43 75.06 1 Includes rugs made by sewing strips of carpet together, but not seamlesa rugs. The average value per square yard of these carpets produced in 1899 was $1.11, and in 1909, $1.32. The increase in production i EEPOET OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 179 during the decade amounted to 47.43 per cent in quantity, 75.06 per cent in value. .^ . , ^ ^. , . Production of Wilton carpets in the Umted States. — ^The production of Wilton carpets in the United States in 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 146. Table 146. — Production of Wilton carpets in the United ^States} Square yards. Value 1900 4,576,368 $8,737,768 1800 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. '3,587,128 •$4,030,842 27.58 116.77 I Includos rugs made by sewing strips of carpet together, but not seamless rugs. « Wilton velvet carpets are included with Wiltons in 1899. These figures are not precisely comparable, since Wilton velvet carpets are included in the figures for 1899 and not in 1909, but even with this difference in favor of 1899 the increase during the decade was 27.58 per cent in quantity and 116.77 per cent in value. The average value of Wiltons produced in 1909 was $1.91 per square yard. Paragraphs 387 and 888.— TAPESTRY BB.TTSSELS AND TAPESTRY VELVET CARPETS. 387. Velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, figured or plain, printed on the warp or otherwise, and all carpeta or carpeting of Uke character or description, forty cents per square yard and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 388. Tapestry Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or description, printed on the warp or otherwise, twenty-eight cents per square yard and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Tapestry carpets defined. — A tapestry Brussels carpet is composed of a strong vegetable-fiber back and a face of worsted yarn. As dis- tinguished from bodv Brussels, in the making of which the worsted yarn is mixed with the body of the fabric in tlie process of weaving, the tapestry Brussels has all the worsted yarn on the surface. For this reason it is less durable and cheaper than the body Brussels. In appearance the two carpets are much ahke, both having the looped and varicolored pile. The colors in the tapestry Brussels, however, are less clear-cut and distinct than in body Brussels, due to the process of manufacture, which will be explained. Velvet and tapestry velvet carpet are tapestry Brussels carpet with the pile cut. They tear the same relation to tapestry Brussels that Wiltons bear to body Brussels carpets. Process ofmaJdn^ tapestry carpets. — The phrase "printed on the warp'' used in both paragraph 387 and 388 suggests the distinguishing feature of the process of making tapestry carpets. The elaborate arrangement of warps in frames and tne Jacquard attachment neces- sary in making Brussels and Wilton carpets are made unnecessary in tapestry-carpet weaving by dyeing the warp according to the desired pattern before it is mounted on the loom. The warp is dyed in care- fully adjusted sections, allowance being made for any take-uj) that may occur in the weaving process. When, then, the warp, as in the case of Brussels, is woven over wires, the colors in the continuous warp adjust themselves to the preconceived pattern. This carpet f1 Ml 1 1 ill 180 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. can be made on a common loom with the wire attachment for raismg the pile. The pile of velvet carpets is produced by cutting the loops by means of kmves attached to thg ends of the wires. Velvet carpets have a plushlike surface similar to that of the Wilton, but the colors are not so distinct in the former as in the latter, due to the lack of precise harmony in dyeing the warp. ^ , Duties on tapestry carpets.— The rate of duty on tapestry Brussels carpet is 28 cents per square yard and 40 per cent, and on velvet and tapestry velvet carpets 40 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. Less wool is used in the production of these carpets than is used m either Brussels or Wilton carpets, because all the wool is on the sur- face, while in the Brussels or Wilton carpets part of the wool is embedded in the vegetable-fiber foundatiofi. For this reason, the compensatory rates are lower on the tapestry carpets. Tapestry vel- vet nas a higher compensatory rate than tapestry Brussels for the same reason that the compensatory rate is higher on Wiltons than on body Brussels carpet, i. e., because more wool is required to make a plush-pile surface than a looped-pile surface. Imparts of tapestry Brussels.— The imports of tapestry Brussels car- pets mto the United States for certain representative years axe pre- sented in Table 147. The average value per square yard of these carpets imported in 1896 was 59 cents; in 1900, 71 cents; m 1905, $1.33; in 1910, $1.15, and in 1911, 91 cents. The imports are eiven liere not because they are of importance but because their smaUness is the chief significant fact relating to them. Table 147.- 'ImporU of tapestry Brussels carpet enUredfor consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 1896» 1900 1905 1910 1911 Rate of duty. Quantity. 42| per cent - • 28 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do do do 8q. mrds. 41,653 483 91 163 446 Value. 124,513 343 121 187 407 Revenue derived. S10,418 273 73 120 288 Ad va]o> rem rate of duty (com- puted). 42.50 79.47 61.00 64.41 70.76 1 Under tlie Witeon bilL Imports of velvet carpets.— The imports of velvet and tai>estry velvet carpets into the UmW States for certain representative years is shown in Table 148. Table US ^Imports of velvet and tapestry velvH carpdM enUredfor consumpti^m into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 1900.. 1905.. 1910., 1«11.. Rate of duty. 40 per cent - ■ • • ■ • 40 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do do do Quantity. Sq.vards. 75,919 25,564 27,286 23,067 23,004 1102,356 32,160 41,058 45,288 Revmue derived. $40,942 23,096 29,284 25,646 27,317 Ad vak>- remrateof duty (com- puted). 40.00 71.82 63.74 62. 4A caa2 > Under ttu) WiJson bilL \ EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDTJLE K. 181 These carpets, being of liigher quality than tapestry Brussels, show a higher value. The average value per square yard of those imported in 1896 was $1.34; m 1900, $1.26; in 1905, $1.69; in 1910, $1.78; and in 1911, $1.97. Production of tapestry Brussels in the United States. — The production of tapestry Brussels in the United States is shown in Table 149. Table 149. — Production of tapestry Brussels carpets in the United States.^ Square yards. Value 1909 11,405,514 $8,576,906 1899 8,737,449 $5,520,665 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 30.54 55.36 » Includes rugs made by sewing strips of carpet together, but not seamless rugs. The average value per square yard of tapestry Brussels carpet pro- duced ia the United States in 1899 was 63 cents, and in 1909, 75 cents. The increase in the production of these carpets during the decade was 30.54 per cent in quantity and 55.36 per cent in value. Production of velvet carpets in the United States. — The production of tapestry velvet and similar carpets in the United States in 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 150. Table 150. — Production of tapestry velvet and similar carpets in the United States.^ Square yards. Value 1909 6,927,198 $5,514,130 1899 '4,280,066 s $3, 743, 353 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 61.85 47.30 » Includes rags made by sewing strips of carpet together, but not seamless rugs. « Wilton velvet carpets not included in 1899. The average value per square yard of tapestry velvet carpets pro- duced in the United States m 1909 was 79 cents. The figures for 1909 include Wilton velvet carpets which are not included in 1899. This Qualification must be considered only in the study of the increase uring the decade of 61.85 per cent in quantity and 47.30 per cent in value. If these carpets had been included in 1899 the rate of increase would not be as great. * Paragraphs 380 and 300.— INGRAIN CABPETS. 389. Treble ingrain, three-ply, and all chain Venetian carpets, twenty-two cents per square yard and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 390. Wool Dutch and two-ply ingrain carpets, eighteen cents per square yard and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Ingrain carpets defined. — ^As distinguished from Brussels, Wilton, and tapestry carpets, ingrain carpets have no pile but are woven flat. The name "ingrain" refers to the fact that the material in these car- pets is dyed in the grain before manufacture. They consist of webs mterlaced together, the warp being worsted, the filling woolen yam. When two webs of material are woven together, the carpet is called Ill I til H I 182 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 2-ply ingrain; when three webs are woven together it is called treble ingrain. These carpets are called Kidderminster carpets in England (from the town of that name). Ingrain carpets are generally less valuable than pile carpets. They are made on looms with a Jacquard attachment which raises and depresses the warp threads in orcler to produce the pattern desired. A chain Venetian carpet is a species of inexpensive inOTain carpet made with a worsted or cotton warp and a jute filling. It is woven in stripes and squares and used for covering such places as stairs and hall floors. Wool Dutch carpet, now little used, is a coarse, heavy carpet woven in stripes and similar in appearance to ingrain carpet. Duties on ingrain carpets. — ^The rate of duty on 2-ply ingrain car- pet is 18 cents per square yard and 40 per cent, and on treble-ingrain carpet 22 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. In making ingrain carpets, both the top or combed wool and the noil or short wool can be used, the former for the warp and the latter for the filling. Because, therefore, the noil can be used in ingrain, the amount of the wool required per square yard is less than m pile carpets in the making of which the noil is considered waste. For this reason, the compensa- tory rates are lower on the former than on the latter. Two-ply ingrain carpets when imported pay 18 cents per square yard to put the domestic manufacturer on the same basis as his foreign com- petitor who has free materials. More material is used in treble- mgrain carpets and the compensatory rate is therefore higher (22 cents per square yard). These rates are of course more than neces- sary for compensation on those carpets in which vegetable fiber m extensively used. Imports ofB'ply ingrain carpet.— The imports of 2-ply mgram car- pet into the United States for certain representative years are pre- sented in Table 151. The imports in this table are so small that any comments based on them would be misleading. Table 151.— Jmporto of Dutch wool and 2-ply ingrain carpets entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 18861. 1900.. 1005.. 1910.. 1911.. Rate of duty. 30 per cent 18 cents per square yard and 40 per cent . do do ....do Quantity. Sq. yards. 24,853 9,350 2,256 27 10 Valoe. .$14,646 5,231 2,270 22 12 Revenue dwived. $4,393 3,776 1,314 13 A ALdvaloretli rate of duty (com- puted). 30.00 72.17 57.88 62.50 60.00 I Under the Wilson bill. Impiyrts of irelleAngrain carpets. — ^The imports of treble-mgrain carpets into the United States for certain representative years are presented in Table 152. The average value per square yard of treble-ingrain carpets imported in 1896 was 75 cents; in 1900, 73 cents; in 1905, 77 cents; in 1910, 90 cents; and in 1911, 88 cents. i BEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDXTLE K. 183 Table 152. — Imports of treble ingrain, S-ply, and all chain Venetian carpets entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30 — Bate, of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (com- puted). 18961 32i per cent Sg. yards. 23,737 11,056 14,205 1,863 4,836 $17,745 8,105 11,000 1.675 4,253 $5,767 6,674 7,525 1,078 2,766 32.60 70 oi 1900 22 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do 1905 .... Aft 41 1910 do 64.36 6.^ 01 1911 do t Under the Wilson bill. Production of ingrain carpets in the United States. — The production of all ingrain carpets in the United States for 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 153. Table 153. — Produt^ion of ingrain carpets in the United States.^ 1900 1899 Per cent of decrease, 189»-1909. Bquare yards 17,799,762 $6,749,672 39,920,849 $14,368,930 5S.41 53.08 Value I Includes both 2 and 3 ply ingrains, but not ingrain art squares. The average value per square yard of ingrain carpets produced in the United States in 1899 was 36 cents, and in 1909, 38 cents, a value much below the value of those imported. The production of these carpets shows a decided decline during the decade, a decline of 55.41 per cent in quantity and 53.03 per cent in value. In part, at least, this decline may be ascribed to the popularity and cheapening in production of velvet and tapestry Brussels carpet. These pile fabrics being more attractive than ingrain, they have come more generally into use. The desire of the pubHc, also, for polished floors and rugs has caused the production or ingrain carpets to decline and the pro- duction of ingrain art squares to increase. (See Table 155.) Paragraph 391.-— BUGS. Carpets of every description, woven whole for rooms, and Oriental, Berlin, Auhusson, Axminster, and similar rugs, ten cents per square foot and forty per cent ad valorem: Provided, That in the measurement of all mats, rugs, carpets and similar articles, of whatever material composed, the selvage, if any, shall be included. Rugs dutiable under paragraph 391 are of two kinds, (a) machine- made rugs, which are structurally like the carpets mentioned in paragraphs 384 to 391, inclusive, but which are woven whole for rooms on the loom; (b) hand-made rugs, such as the Aubusson from France, the Axminster from England, and the Oriental rugs from both the Near and Far East. Machine-made rugs are made on looms of similar structure to the carpet looms, except that they are, for large rugs, wider. Many rugs are produced in the United States on 10 and 12 foot looms. ». A04 REPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 11 Oriental rugs are imported chiefly from India, Persia, and the Ottoman Empire. A Mgh duty is levied upon their importation, both for revenue purposes and in order to nrevent them from supplant- ing machine-made domestic carpets. Oriental rugs are made by hand. The weaver, sitting before the simple loom, chooses a yam from an assortment previously prepared and attaches it to the warp thread by a running knot. The knot is pressed home with a rude comb and the pile leveled with a pair of shears. The artistic effects in Oriental rugs are well known, but any attempt to describe their variety and style would require more space than it is possible to give here. Oriental rugs are classed as Turkish, Persian, Daghestan, and Indian. The Daghestan are the rugs made in or near the Caucasus Mountains. The Indian rugs are made by the natives of India. The increasing demand for these oriental rugs has led to the organ- ization of the industry in the Orient. Merchants have established factories both in Turkey and Persia. Constantinople is the greatest oriental rug market in the world. Smyrna is of mcreasing import- ance. The oriental rug industry uses maiw of the same kinds of carpet wools as aie ^pped to tne United States for the use of our manufacturers. Rua jproviso, — ^Before the act of 1909, the importers had claimed that m measuring the square yards in a carpet the selvedge, i. e.. the edge of the carpet which prevents ravehng out of the body of the fabric, should not be included. The Government won its conten- tion that it should, but all doubt was removed by the inclusion of the proviso in the law of 1909. Duties on rti^«.— The rate of duty on rugs of eveiy description is 90 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. The compensatory duty here of 90 cents per square yard is stated m paragraph 391 as ''10 cents per square foot.'* Just why the phraseology was changed in this paragraph from what it is in the others is not evident. It is the only compensatory rate m Schedule K levied on the square foot . This duty is 30 cents per square yard higher than the compensatory rate on carpets which are structurally the same, dutiable under paragraph 384. when it is remembered that the compensatory rate is intended onlv to compensate the domestic manufacturer for materials used in carpeting similar to those imported, it is not clear why the compen- satory rate should be higher on a square yard of rug than on a square yard of carpet of like structure and material. It is true that there IS slightly more yam waste on a broad rug loom than on a narrow carpet loom. This, however, does not justify raisuig the compensa- tory duty 60 per cent. It is said that the duty should be higher on oriental and other high-grade rugs because they are articles of luxury. Granting this to be true, the increase in rates, if the theory on which Schedule K is constmcted is to be followed, should be, not in the specific or compensatory rates, but in the ad valorem or pro- tective rates. A rate levied on the weight of ni^ does not bear so heavily on the expensive as on the cheap rugs. In fact, the rate of 90 cents per square yard acts to prevent the importation of all rugs except the very highest grades ana the market for cheap and medium rugs is supphed entirely by the domestic products. It follows, therefore, tnat the compensatory rate on mgs not merely compensates the domestic manufacturer but also gives him added protection. i BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 185 I f Imports of rugs into the United States. — The imports of oriental and other similar rugs into the United States for certain representative years are presented in Table 154. Table 154. — Imports of oriental, Berlin, Auhitsson, Axminster, and other similar rugs, entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending Jiui« 30- Rate of duty. Quantity. Vahie. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). 1900 90 cents per square yard and 40 i>er cent. . do Square yds. 649,111 684,334 1,004,009 886,151 $2,329,106 2,708,744 4,392,786 3,686,367 SI, 515, 842 1,699,398 2,660,723 2,272,083 fA (M 1905 €\0 7A 1910 do AO h7 1911 do 61 fi3 More carpetings are imported under paragraph 391 than under any of the carpet paragraphs, and imports here consist chiefly of oriental rugs, which, while to some extent taking the place of domestic-made rugs in the home market, are of greater value than any produced in this country. The average value per square yard of rugs imported in 1910 was $4.37, and in 1911, $4.11. Production of rugs in the United States. — The production of rugs in the United States m 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 155. Table 155. — Production of seamless rugs in the United States. Ruga woven wbole: Square yards. Value Axminster and moquette — Square yards Value Wilton- Square yards Value Ingrain art squares— » Square yards Value Smyrna — Sqixare yards Value All other rugs- Square yards Value 1909 24,042,152 $18^490,449 3,184,097 $3,691,900 767,248 $1,381,562 6,131,862 $2,408,960 1,400,233 $1,660,322 12,558,712 $9,347,705 1899 Per cent of increase, 1S99-1909. 12,171,289 $8,145,232 327,598 $342,262 339,784 $545,967 2,722,323 $1,175,961 3,651,661 $3,680,618 5,129,923 $2,400,434 97.53 127.01 871.95 978.68 125.80 153.05 125.24 104.85 >61.65 *M.m 144.81 289.42 > The production of ingrain art squares in 1904 was 7,135,546 square yards, valued at $2,785,457. ' Decrease. The increase in the production of rugs during the decade as shown in Table 1 55 is veiy significant. It shows that the pubhc is demanding its carpetings in tne form of rugs now much more than it did 10 years ago and that carpet mills are meeting this demand now by weaving more seamless rugs instead of by sewing together strips of carpeting. The increase in the production of Axminster and moquette rugs during the decade was 871.95 per cent in quantity and 978.68 per cent in value. Wilton rugs increased in production 125.80 per cent in quan- tity and 153.05 per cent in value. Ingrain art squares increased in production 125.24 per cent in quantity and 104.85 per cent m value 186 REPORT OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. during the decade, but the output in 1909 was less than in 1904. Smjma rugs — i. e., rugs made from chenille yams— are the only rugs which show a decrease. They decreased 61 .65 per cent in quantity and 64.89 per cent in value. Exports of rugs from the Ottoman Empire, — ^Export figures for the Ottoman Empire are so unreliable that it has been thought best not to use them. Some index, however, of the exports of rugs from the Ottoman Empire may be obtained from taking the imports of carpet- ings into the leading countries of the world from the Ottoman Empire. These facts are presented in Table 156. Table 156.- -Imports of woolen ceayetsfrom Ottoman Empire into the leading countriei during 1910. Country. United States.... United Kingdom. Fnwce Oennany Italy Belgium Austria-Hungary. Netberiands Quantity. Square yds. 750,615 370,305 153,336 U, 761,034 S«40,786 156,782 11,360,238 Value, $3,263,631 1,315,284 494,852 1,783,096 «21,066 49,000 1,238,479 * 4,223 1 Pounds. « Figures for 1909. Paragraph 392.— BBXTOaETS AND BOCKINOS. Druggets and bockings, printed, colored, or otherwise, twenty-two cents per square yard and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. A dnigget is a coarse woolen material, felted or woven, used as a carpet lining or as carpet. Baize is dutiable under this head. Book- ing is a name for a coarse woolen drugget or baize. The name comes from Bocking, England, where it was first made. Duty on druggets, etc.— The rate of duty on druggets and bockings is 22 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. This is the same duty as is levied on treble ingrain carpets. Imports of druggets and hochings,— The imports of druggets and bocking into the United States for certain representative years are shown m Table. 157. Table 157. — Import* of druggeit and bockings entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— 18961. 1900.. 1905.. 1910. . 1911.. Rate of duty. 30 per cent 22 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. do do do Quantity. Valua Square yds. 1,592 4,409 5,992 36,638 24,867 $778 2,367 3,854 30,587 21,524 Revenue derived. 1234 1,917 2,860 20,273 14,080 Ad valorem rate of duty (computed). 30.00 80.99 74.20 66.28 66.41 t Under the Wllaon bilL I.* BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, Paragraph 393.— CABPETS, N. S. P. P. 187 Carpets and carpeting of wool, flax, or cotton, or composed in part of any of them, "y provided for in this section, and mats, matting, and rugs of cotton, fifty per centum ad valorem. not specially Cotton carpets and rugs, straw mats, matting, felt carpets and all other carpets not specially provided for in the schedule are dutiable under paragraph 393. (Jarpets, mats, and rugs, however, made in chief value of flax, hemp, and jute, are dutiable under paragraph 344 in Schedule J. Duty on carpets, n. s. p.f — Due to the fact that the majority of the carpets or carpeting dutiable under this paragraph contain no wool, no compensatory duty is levied on their importation. The protective duty is 50 per cent ad valorem. Imports of felt carpeting. — The imports of felt carpeting into the United States for certain representative years are presented in Table 158: Table 15S.— Imports of felt carpeting entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty. 1890 30 per cent Sq. yds. 6,346 1,422 1,795 42 46 $3,097 533 2,635 43 193 $929 266 1,317 21 96 30 50 50 50 50 1900 50 Der cent . . 1905 do 1910 ..... do. ........ 1911 do.... Imports of carpets. — Imports of carpets not specially provided for are shown in Table 159: Table 159. — Imports of carpets entered for consumption into the United States. Fiscal year ending June 30— Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valorem rate of duty. 1896 30 'Dcr cent 8q. yds. 18,291 25,035 21,097 27, 11-i 25,103 $16,507 26,758 36,949 40,762 35,005 $4,952 13,379 18,474 20,381 17,503 80 50 50 50 60 1900 50 Der cent . . . 1905 do 1910 do.... 1911 do Paragraph 394.— ARTICLES MADE OP CARPET MATERIAL. Mats, rugs for floors, screens, covers, hassocks, bed sides, art squares, and other portions of carpets or carpeting made wholly or in part of wool, and not specially pro- vided for in this section, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposecf on carpets or carpetings of like character or description. Paragraph 394 merely provides that articles made from carpets shall pav the same duty as the carpet or carpetings from which they are made would have to pay. Screens made from Brussels carpet, for example, would pay a duty of 44 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. ; hassocks made of treble ingrain carpet would pay a duty of 22 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, etc. The T m 188 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. I imports under this paragraph never amount to more than a few dollars in value. SITMMABT OF MANTTFACTXTBES OP WOOL. Imports ofaM manwfactures of wool, — The imports of all manufac- tures of wool into the United States, excluding partially manufactured products and yam, are presented in Table 160. Table 160. — Total imports of manufactures of wool (excluding yams and other parHallif manufactured products) entered for consumption into the United States. Value. Revenue derived. Ad valo- rem rate of duty (computed). Fiscal year ending June 30— 18961 146,807,631 15,428,519 17,800,506 22,518,120 18,412,900 122,527,828 14,123,429 16,373,626 20,422,187 16,273,576 48.13 91.54 91.98 90.fi9 8a 38 1900 #. 1905 1910 1911 > Under tlie Wilson bUl. The imports for the years 1900, 1905, 1910, and 1911 are repre- sentative under the rates of the present law (the laws of 1897 and 1909 were substantially the same). The computed ad valorem rate of duty must not, however, be taken as a measure of the rates on manufactures under Schedule K. It is rather a measure of the rates on the goods imported xmder the highest value classifications in Schedule K. The one important exception to this statement is the importation of cheap dress goods. A little over 70 per cent of the imports in 1910 consisted of oriental ru^ and dress goods and cloths classified in the highest value classifications of the schedule, and the remainder of the imports were distributed under all the other classi- fications of the paragraphs treating with manufactures. This pro- portion of high-grade goods to the medium and cheaper grades is typical under the rates of the acts of 1897 and 1909. The compen- satory rates, which bear most heavily on the cheaper goods, virtually operate to exclude them from the country. The computed ad valo- rem rate, which includes both the compensatory and ad valorem rates, on such goods as were imported in 1900, was 91.54 per cent; in 1905, 91.98 per cent; in 1910, 90.69 per cent; and in 1911, 88.38 per cent. Under the act of 1894 the compensatory rates were absent; the computed ad valorem rate on the importations of 1896 was 48.13. The imports at that time included goods of all grades. If the cheaper grades of goods had been imported under the acts of 1897 and 1909 m the same value or even quantity as the liigh-grade goods, the computed ad valorem rates for the years since 1897 would be con- siderably higher than they are. Imports OfaM manufactures, hy countries. — ^The imports of all man- ufactures or wool, including yam, into the United States, by countries, are shown in Table 161. The United Kingdom, Germany, and France are the important source of these imports. The substantial imports from the Turkish Empire are rugs. EEPOET OP TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 189 Table 161. — Imports of all manufactures of wool {including yams), by countries, entered for immediate consumption or for warehouse into the United States. Country of origin. Austria-Hungary Belgium France Germany Italy Netherlands Russian Empire Switzerland Turkish Empire, including Egypt and Bulgaria ITnited Kingdom Canada Mexico British East Indies, including India Japan other countries 1896 1900 1905 1910 $237,638 195,873 $260,197 $456,211 623,884 166,691 211,829 638,257 7,684,706 2,705,651 2,868,288 3,866,616 11,304,516 3,341,719 3,260,561 4,785,888 12.884 5,607 10,260 29,277 4,724 5,406 3,900 6,805 727 52,710 29,072 94,002 282,069 87.377 87,388 108,021 1,202,584 1, 80^,517 2,049,338 3,288,095 29,312,706 7,559,004 8,727,569 9,612,444 47,509 21,912 30,877 41,851 8,247 5,680 7,664 13,186 31,697 169.601 128,974 100,467 •ij yuy 8,379 8,039 23,696 30,552 46,530 132,829 472,359 1911 $357,124 568,880 2,760,010 3,209,604 24,007 24,207 141,405 132,645 1.901,614 8,271,773 44,311 18,309 104,177 18,226 977,490 Total output of the wool-using industries in the United States. — Table 162 presents the total output of all products of the wool-using indus- tries in the United States in 1899 and 1909. The output of the hosiery and knit-goods iudustry includes cotton knit goods. Table 162. — Total products of wool manufactures in the United States j 1899 and 1909, Industry. Worsted goods Woolen ^ods Hosiery and knit goods Carpets and rugs Felt goods Woolfelthats 1909 $312,624,663 107,118,858 200,143,527 71,188,152 11,862,626 4,382,411 1899 $120,314,344 118,430,158 96,482,566 48,192,361 6,461,691 3.501,946 Percent of increase, 1899-1909. 159.84 19. 5S 109.61 47.71 83.43 22.01 1 Decrease. Table 162 includes a certain amount of duplication. Partially manufactured products, such as tops and yams, and by-products, such as waste and noils, are reported as products made for sale by some mills and many of them are purchased subsequently by other mills and are incorporated in the value of the product of these ndUs. Not all the partially manufactured products, however, made for sale are counted twice in the census returns. Some of these, particularly yams, are sold for use in shop and households where they are madfe mto knitted and other articles by hand. In order to get at the net product, the census subtracts from the gross products — those in Table 162 — the value of the waste and noils, tops, woolen and worsted, and merino yarns and hat bodies reported as materials. If the imports and exports of partially manufactured products or by-products were of any importance, they would further complicate the problem, but they are so small that they may be disregarded. Imports and production of yams and tops compared. — ^It is interesting to make a comparison between the imports and production of tops and yarns in the United States. As already shown on page 168, tops are practically not imported at all. At no time since the act of 1897 went into effect has the annual importation of tops exceeded 4,000 pounds. The Census Bureau does 190 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. I ? ' IM EEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 191 not report the amount of tops made in worsted mills for their own use. fi"*-.^? o^^ entirely safe in saying that the production of tops in the Umted States m 1909 was over 170,000,000 pounds. (See p 108 ) , At no time smce the act of 1897 went into effect has the annual miportation of yarns amounted to over 400,000 pounds and this yarn was only of the highest count and value. It could hardly be said to compete with domestic yarn. In any case the yam imported is less ;5*^^ , ?^^^ ^^ ^ P^^ ^^^ ^^ *^® yarns produced in the country (See Tables 196, 202, 209, 214, and 217.) ^' Imports arid production of manufactures of wool C(mjpared. —Com- parjLson of production and miports of manufactures of^wool can be made only by values, for the units of quantity vary. Comparisons by value always favor imports, because, as has been pointed out repeatedly m this report, the average value of the goods imported is hjgher than the average value of goods produced in the United States. 4. ui ^^^* ®^^"ld b® kept in mind in studying the table which foUows. 1 able 163 presents the imports and production in 1909 of certain manufactures of wool and also the percentage which each is of the total of the two. Table IGS.— Production and imports of specified wool prodwts in the United States in 1909 and the percentage which each is of the total of the two. Item. Woolen and worated cloth, production and imparts Production Imports Blanlcets and flannels, production and imports Production Value. Imports. Dress i!oods, production and imports Production Imports Carpets, production and imports Production Imports Bugs, production and imports Production Imports $185,994,603 181,217,156 4,777,447 10,602,112 10,566,965 126,147 105,258,569 98,239,276 7,019,284 48,670,997 48,475,889 196,106 22,043,897 18,490.449 3,563,448 Per cent of total. 100.00 97.43 2.67 100.00 98.83 1.17 100.00 93.33 6.67 100.00 99.60 .40 100.00 83.88 16.12 TT ^®, production and imports of woolen and worsted cloth for the United States m 1909 was valued at $185,994,603; 97.43 per cent of this was domestic production and 2.57 per cent was imports. The imports were substantially all under the highest value classification of paragraph 378. The production and imports of blankets and flannels for the United States m 1909 was valued at $10,692,112: 98.83 per cent of this was domestic production and 1.17 per cent of it was imports . The production and imports of dress goods for the United States m 1909 was valued at $105,258,559; 93.33 per cent of this was domestic production and 6.67 per cent waa imports. The imports mcluded both the low and high grade dress goods. .^^® production and imports of carpets for the United States in 1909 was $48,670,997; 99.60 per cent of this was domestic production and 0.40 per cent was imports. The production and imports of rugs for the United States in 1909 was $22,043,897; 83.88 per cent of this was domestic production and 16.12 per cent was imports. The imports consisted chiefly of expen- sive oriental rugs valued abroad at over $4 per square jrard. The average value per square yard of rugs produced in the United States in 1909 was 77 cents. (See Table 155.) Exports ofaU domestic mxinufactures of wool, — The total export of all domestic manufactures of wool is shown in Table 164. Table 1^.— Exports of all domestic manufactures of wool, hy countries, from the United States. Country of destination. 1896 1900 1905 1910 1911 Belcrium 126,697 48,711 267,644 385,091 10,508 6,901 $2,679 10,628 152,235 817,092 1,901 2,078 S3, 649 23,015 126,430 1,241,414 14,988 3,645 9,218 280,786 23,924 38,602 47,428 19,156 31,830 28,397 27.281 598,427 240,723 12,226 133.811 103,065 S5,409 64,162 305,716 1,204,833 13,276 6,123 63,324 395,736 60,231 61,594 24,738 3,514 16,060 15,989 12,867 665,285 265,279 40,357 138,836 95,357 $9,966 Germanv - 39,459 United Kingdom 244,690 Canada, meluding Newfoundland and Labrador.. Guatemala. 1,195,715 14,770 Nicaracrua 4,238 Panama . . . . . . 16,031 Mexico 87,036 1,107 2,067 669 23,664 249 8,503 7,331 71,484 12,251 6,767 292 2,282 1,259 14,905 24,577 326,683 Cuba 32,905 Argentina. 107,088 ChSe 7,978 Colombia 1,179 China 8.521 Janan 37,209 Australasia. - 11,173 Alaska . 0) Hawaii 61,614 111,689 1,395 1,835 65,013 (9 PhillDDine Islands. 85,426 Porto Kico 195 41,722 0) Othw countries 150,442 1 Figures not available. The most conspicuous thing to be noted in Table 164 is the small- ness of the exports. They consist chiefly of woolen wearing apparel. Canada is our most important market. Mexico, our colonies, and Argentina are next in importance. As far as the rest of the world is concerned, the wool manufactures of the United States are isolated. The high tariff rates secure for them the domestic market, and such goods as are imported over the tariff barrier can not be said to compete seriously with the domestic products. On the contrary, the duty on raw wool increases the cost of production to the domestic manufacturer so that he can not com- fete in neutral markets with his foreign competitor who has free wool, t may be generally said, then, that Schedule K confines the American consumer to wool goods of American manufacture, and it also con- fines the domestic producer to the home market. m PART I: GLOSSARY ON SCHEDULE K ' SECTION 3 "Wfi 32080°— II. Doc. 342, G2-2, vol 1 13 193 m 1 m Section 3.— SHEEP INDUSTRY IN LEADING COUNTRIES. SHEEP INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. Review of sheep growing in the United Stat^. — In the thirties of the last century sheep raising reached its supremacy in the East of the United States. The census of 1840 shows Vermont to have had 1,682,000 sheep; New York, 5,119,000; Pennsylvania, 1,768,000; Virginia, 1,294,000; Kentucky, 1,008,000; and Oliio, 2,028,000. The sheep in these six States represented about 66.7 per cent of all the sheep in the country. No sheep were reported from the far western territory. During the decade ending with 1840 the sheep industry prospered both because of the flourishing condition of domestic manufacture and the absence of any serious foreign competition. By 1860, as shown by the census of that year, the number of sheep in Vermont, New York, and other Eastern States had begim to declme, while, on the contrary, the number in the Middle Western States showed an increase. For that year Ohio reported 3,547,000 and Mchi- fan 1,273,000. The whole number of sheep in the country increased etween 1840 and 1860 only about 3,000,000. After the Civil War the wools from Australasia and the Kiver Plate began to come in competition with domestic wools, and along with this competition came the tariif rates of 1867 to protect the domestic grower. The most dominant influence in the wool-growing industry of the United States after the war was the rise of sheep raising in the West. The frontier country proved particularly adapted to the pasturing of flocks, and in competition with the western wool the number of sheep in the East continued to decHne. By 1890 the whole number of sheep in the New England and Middle Atlantic States, according to tlie census of that year, was ^only 4,278,000. The States in that year with over 1,500,000 each were Texas, Ohio, Michigan, Montana, lltah. New Mexico, California, and Oregon. The far western States have continued their advance. In 1900 they contained 55.78 per cent of all the sheep in the country and in 1910 they contained 58.41 per cent of all the sheep in the country. Number of sheep in the United States, 1860-1910. — The number of sheep in the United States as reported by each census since 1860 is presented in Table 165. .195 t' Table 165.- EEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. ■Number of sheep {excluding Iambs) on/arms and ranges in the United States, as reported or estimated by the census. [Ex pressed in thousands 1 States and Territories. 1910 1 1900 s 1890 » 1880 > 1870 < 1860 ' The United States 39,187 39.853 40,876 42,192 28,478 23,975 North Atlantic Division.. 1,566 150 31 84 23 4 14 606 17 637 2,533 252 65 182 34 7 23 085 26 059 4,133 371 132 334 51 11 38 1,529 55 1,612 4,971 566 212 440 68 17 59 1,715 117 1,777 5,546 435 249 5S0 79 24 84 2,182 120 1,794 6,335 Maine 514 ■• New Hampshire 317 Vermont Massachusetts 770 123 Rhode Island 38 Conne'lictit lao New York 2,621 New Jersey Pennsylvania 117 1,685 Rniith Atliintic Division 1,549 5 126 1,706 7 111 2,445 12 133 2,579 22 171 2,110 23 130 1 370 552 463 125 419 27 2.855 Delaware 19 Maryland District ol Columbia 157 Vireinia 438 140 28 153 95 392 573 209 62 259 103 495 785 402 80 440 98 497 675 462 119 527 106 1,1.56 ^Vftst Virt'inia North Carolina 624 South Carolina 234 Georcia 633 Florida 32 North Central Division 10.050 2,888 812 658 1,545 629 452 769 1,114 238 601 240 204 10,0)6 2,648 1,011 629 1,628 9S6 300 6.58 664 451 507 3.36 180 12,3,32 4.061 i,asi 923 2,400 985 399 547 951 136 2.39 209 401 13,663 4,903 1,101 1.0.37 2,189 1,337 268 455 1,411 85 13.638 4,929 1,613 1,568 1,986 1,069 132 855 1.3.52 2 8,. 521 Ohio 3,679 Indiana 1,023 Illinois 803 Michigan W isconsin Minnesota 1,.320 345 16 Iowa • 281 Missotiri 1,033 North Dakota » Bouth Dakota " Nebraska 247 630 23 109 2 Kansas 19 South Central Division 3,133 777 470 109 155 139 1,.^39 47 " 97' 3,329 716 308 229 2.36 169 1,440 49 13 169 7,027 937 .541 3S6 4.52 1S6 4,264 17 6,397 1,(MX) 673 347 2S8 136 3,651 3,232 937 827 242 233 119 714 4,0.32 Kentucky 1.006 Tennessee - Alabama 803 383 Mississinni 3.54 Louisiana Texas Oklahoma Indian Territory ^ Arkauisas 203 1,074 ,55 247 itii 244 209 Western Division Mfintfinfi 22, ,889 4. 953 ■l.M'7 1.304 2,833 796 1,670 787 2,070 293 1,9,56 1 , 4(X) 1^.229 4.215 3.327 1,3.53 3,334 069 2,553 668 1,966 658 1.901 1,725 14,9.39 2,353 713 897 2,475 515 1,937 273 358 265 1,7jn|n 98,261 20 41,446 46,879 6,522 86,051 178, 194 188,631 35,665 4,784 9,464 13.330 26,776 39,740 46,933 79,874 63,180 68,958 122.957 167,527 89,672 3,927 3,083 2,882 6,518 2,788 2,335 2,681 2,989 1,658 2,370 1,453 459 4 873 1,702 1,862 1,456 1,448 1,262 779 390 1,785 1880 1,724 1885 136 42 11 87 40 3 631 1890 440 1895 3,822 1900 8,958 1905 1910 932 192 6,0(>5 "1,854 198 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. iii HU i i Hi' mil i Numher of sheep in the United States in 1910.— The number of sliwp ill tli6 United States according to the census of 1910 is pre- sented in Table 168. These figures are compiled from the prelimmarv statements of the census and are subject to slight correction, which will not in any case be over 1 per cent. These figures do not include 234,856 ewes, 81,128 rams and wethers, and 58,371 lambs not on farms and ranches. Table 168 — Xumber of sheep and lambs in 1910. {lUpoHed by the United States Census Bureau.) [Note,— The figures are preliminary and subject to correction.] REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 199 f» State. The United States. . . North Atlantic Division. .. Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts Rhode Island Connecticut New York New Jersey Pennsylvania South Atlantic Division... Delaware Maryland Virginia West Virginia North Carolina South Carolina Georgia Florida North Central Division Ohio Indiana Illinois Michigan Wisc'onsin Minnesota Iowa Miasouri Nortli Dakota South Dakota Nebraska Kansas South Central Division Kentucky Tennessee Alabama Mississippi Louisiana — Texas Oklahoma Arkansas Western Division Montana Wyoming Colorado New Mexico Arizona Utah Nevada Idaho Washington Oregon California Number of farms and ranches. 609,323 Ewes bom before Jan. 1, 1910. 31.582,097 7,604,672 12,622,299 .51,809,068 71,469 ll.WX) 2,230 5,033 1,027 243 740 24,829 875 25.426 76, 188 266 6,228 26,014 14,604 1.721 5. 136 633 326,231 71,523 38,191 26,240 54,865 30,040 24,549 21.789 44,010 3,«T73 5, 15.5 3,(M3 3, 153 107.441 45,063 29,953 6,614 5,687 3,629 6,683 831 8,381 27,994 2,267 1,641 1,693 3,113 1,025 2,416 316 2,995 2,116 6,318 3,801 1,346,560 14;i,738 29,075 78,996 20,887 3,952 12,771 568,409 15,539 473. 193 1,341,974 3,924 119,806 412,566 496,623 120,(35 22,2S)4 105,008 61, 118 8,581,827 2,187,524 742,576 582,879 i.4,'i:?.2a'i 588,628 417,239 676, 158 1,012,513 183,752 412,276 177,876 167, 113 2,40:1,579 722,566 429,365 80,276 108,481 100, 45<') 902,078 40,073 80,284 17,848,157 3,247,183 3,957,916 1,109,5;J2 2,3(M.292 654,6:J9 1,339,775 (i51,330 1,780,837 226,196 1,445,981 1,130,476 Bams and wethers bom before Jan. 1, 1910. Lambs bom after Jan. 1, 1910. Total number of sheep and lambs. Average number of sheep and lambs per farm or ranch. 219,463 6,196 2,126 5,364 1,785 254 1,262 37.246 1.054 im. 176 207, (H6 491 6,445 25,422 67,755 19,249 6,537 48,203 33,944 1,467,915 700,5<)3 60,851 74,994 111,978 39.911 34,389 93,184 101,673 54.023 62,237 36,740 6(%,963 54,361 40,408 28,834 46,885 3.8,807 4.36,380 7,057 16.231 5,041,285 1,706,347 868,802 194,060 528.82:i 141. 185 330,271 136,027 289,347 66,887 510,144 269,392 707,435 56,500 12,571 34,191 9,997 2,583 8,365 323,892 245, 483 958. .397 3,391 110.886 365, 5«>4 341,715 74,292 9,602 34,378 18,569 4,545,315 1,018,9<>8 624,540 401, 199 761,2'J5 301,244 185, 405 375,241 603,822 51,579 110,080 53,383 68,619 1, .500, 109 .584,073 324, 190 33,815 38,914 38,954 419, 626 12,862 47, 675 4,911,043 419, 109 568,241 120,595 430,897 265, 5;}9 1.5(),431 316,532 880.350 178,438 740.654 834,257 2,273,458 206, 434 43,772 118,551 32.669 6,789 22,398 929,547 30,446 882,852 2,507,417 7,806 237, 137 803, ,552 906,093 214,176 37,433 187, 589 113.631 14.595.057 3,907.055 1.336.967 1.059,072 2,306,476 929,783 637,033 1.144,583 1,808.038 289.354 610,728 293, 496 272, 472 4.632.651 1.361.000 793. 9(a 142,925 194,280 178.217 1,7.58,084 59.992 144, 190 27,800,485 5, ,372, 639 5, .394, 959 1,424,187 3.264,012 1.061.3f)3 1.826,477 1,103,889 2,950,5.34 471.521 2,696,779 2,234,125 Total value. 85 1230, .532, 817 32 19 20 24 32 28 30 37 36 35 33 29 38 37 35 15 22 37 180 45 56 35 40 42 31 26 63 41 79 118 96 86 43 30 27 22 34 49 263 72 17 993 2,370 3,288 841 1,049 1,035 766 3,493 986 223 427 588 10,775,726 813,976 192,346 539,091 156,303 32,637 112.214 4,836,069 160,138 3,932,962 9,064.575 36,898 1,142,965 3,294,385 3,386,694 658,552 80,981 308.054 256,046 62.237.845 14,932,790 5.908.496 4,838.900 9, 646. 565 3,669,572 2, 690. .598 5.744.398 7,874.678 1,235,220 2.999,711 1.486,936 1,209.921 16,332,797 5,564,638 3.005,538 299,895 414,479 342.894 6,138,426 239,041 327,886 132.121.874 28.999.2.39 29,648.616 6.848.463 11.905,380 3,796.668 8,632,029 4,887,257 15,631,797 1,913,488 12,197,477 7,661,460 There are some features of Table 168 which require particular emphasis. Tlie table shows that 609,323 farms or ranches reported *'■ 1 V i» sheep on April 15, 1910. It also shows the average size of the flocks hi the various States. The average size of the flock in the whole United States was 85 sheep. The average size of flock m the North Atlantic States was 32 sheep; in the South Atlantic States, 33 sheep; in the North Central States, 45 sheep; in the South Central States 43 sheep; while in the Western division, where the industry takes on the cliaracter of ranching operations, the average size of the flocks is given as 993 sheep. The flocks m Montana, Wyommg, New Mexico, Arizona, and Nevada are reported as averagmg over 1,000 sheep each. It should be noted also in this table that the value of the flocks in the United States was m 1910 $230,532,817. Sheep industry in the United Kingdom compared with that of the United States. — ^For purposes of comparison with the United States, the number and distribution of sheep and lambs in the United King- dom are presented in detail in Table 169. Table 169. — Number of sheep and lambs in United Kingdom in 1910. United Kingdom. England. Bedford Berkshire Buckingham Cambridge Chester Cornwall Cumberland Derby Devon Dorset Durham Essex Gloucester Hampsh ire Hereford Hertford Huntingdon Kent Lancaster Leicester Lincoln London Middlesex Monmouth Norfolk Northampton Northumberland Nottingham Oxford Eutland Salop Somerset Stafford Suffolk Surrey Sussex Warwick Westmoreland Wiltshire Worcester York, East Riding York, North Riding York, West Riding Wales Scotland Ireland Isle of Man, Jersey, and Guernsey. Ewes kept for breeding. 12,281,507 6,140,062 37,391 77,218 74,511 69,218 35,819 161,863 215, 796 56. 192 368,474 169,558 91.447 97,990 152,292 168,313 145,034 42,453 30, 170 338, 024 128,203 113. 717 395.278 426 5,699 108,981 184, 648 137,860 453,044 68,813 90,554 30,420 200,336 195.361 89,333 150,930 23,149 165,453 97,222 163,228 205,614 68,694 161,944 294,808 274,684 1,537,741 2,987,841 1,580,519 35,344 Other sheep. One year and above. 6,267,650 3,338,401 18.933 29,398 44,249 35,852 21,318 65,804 150,285 42,052 164,017 47,016 63,031 51,207 63,328 64,302 68, 162 25.208 20.554 309, 261 54,437 91,849 229.802 2,105 8,278 41,251 116,374 114,906 167,530 52,417 42,921 24.908 95,104 129,120 44,960 48,675 18, 412 111,954 61.831 79,386 75,994 35,732 124,395 150,350 131, 733 813,792 1,335,124 774, 174 6,159 Under one year. 12,615,430 Total. 31,164,587 6,795,055 I 16,273.518 40,998 70,022 86,020 63,708 42,324 17^,903 221,569 66,941 391,204 130,055 105.196 104,848 175,347 139, 726 160,694 38,966 36,693 377.649 141,844 140, 107 472,843 410 7,193 102,607 239, 197 169, 897 520,339 89,238 97,604 35,275 235.184 197.895 117.362 179, 795 23,475 167, 473 121,160 157.361 202,086 84,784 214, 525 338,043 308,435 1,333.248 2,821,681 1,624.823 40,623 97.322 176.638 204,780 168,778 99.461 406,570 587,650 165,185 923,755 346,629 259,674 254.045 390.967 372,341 373.890 106,627 87, 417 1,024,934 324,484 345,673 1,097,923 2.941 21, 170 252,839 540,219 422,663 1,140,913 210,468 231,079 90,603 630,624 622,376 251,655 379,400 65,036 444,880 280,213 399,975 483,694 189,210 500,864 783.201 714, 752 3,684,781 7, 144. 646 3,979.516 82.126 ' ■-r" 200 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 201 II Table 169 shows that the United Kingdom with an area of 77,690,240 acres, contained in 1910, 31,164,587 sheep and lambs. The United States, on the contrary, with an area of 1,903,461,760 acres, contained in 1910, 52,183,423 sheep and lambs (including those not on farms and ranches). It thus appears that the United King- dom has one sheep or lamb for every 2.5 acres whUe the United States has one sheep or lamb for every 36.5 acres. If we consider England and Wales alone, there is one sheep and lamb for every 1.8 acres. The above table shows that almost all the counties of England con- tain sheep and lambs. Those having over 1,000,000 each are Kent, Lincoln, Northumberland, and Yorkshire, including the three ridings. Sheep in ranch States and farm States, 1890-1910. — In the Middle West and the East of the United States sheep at the present time are handled mainly as an incident to a system of mixed liusbandry . In the far West and in certain sections of Ohio and adjacent territory woolgrowing is an important specialty. As a general rule farm con- ditions prevail in the middle western and eastern States, while ranch conditions prevail in the far West. It is important therefore to com- pare the number of sheep over a period of years in the ranch and farm States separately. This is shown in Table 170. The figures are from the Bulletin of Wool Manufacturers. These same facts are shown graphically in Chart 4, which foUows the table. It may be said parenthetically that while the number of sheep declined rapidly in the East and Middle West of the United States from 1893 to 1897, the number of hogs and stock cattle dechned in approximately the same proportion. Hogs and stock cattle were unaffected by the tariff. Table 170. — Number of sheep over a period of years on April l,for leading States where farm and where ranch conditions prevail.^ [Expressed in thousands.] Year. Ranch States.* Farm States.' TotAl. 1890 24,217 23, 615 23,874 23,445 22,400 22,090 21.121 21.047 21,949 23.011 26,203 26,760 26,518 25,268 24,996 25,495 24,866 24,585 25, 4.30 26,675 25,850 20, 119 19,816 21, 0(^4 23,829 21, 102 17,859 15,349 13,737 13,723 13, 8W 14,065 15, 161 15,668 14,016 13,346 13, 126 13,675 14,280 14,882 15,618 16,150 44,336 1891 43, 431 1892 44,938 1893 47,274 1894 43,502 1895 39,949 1896 36,470 1897 34, 784 1898 35,672 1899 36,905 1900 40,268 1901 41,921 1902 42,186 1903 39, 284 1904 1905 38,342 38, 621 1906 38,541 1907 38.865 1908 40,312 1909 42,2a3 1910 42,000 1 statistics taken from Bulletin of Wool Manufactures. « Includes Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, New Mexico, Oregon, Texas, Utali, Washington, and Wyoming. • Includes all other States. ^ 1 <0 Q V 1^ <*» 45 o> g> >j. jj o > H 4^ /9fO Chaet 4.— Number of sheep in the United States, 1890-1910, classified as to ranch and farm conditions. (The lacts of Table 170 presented graphically.) 202 EEPORT OP TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. i Imports of wool y 1868-1911, — ^TIi© imports of raw wool by classes into the United States from 1868 to 1911 for consumption are shown in Table 171 in millions of pounds and millions of dollars. Table 171. — Imports of raw wool hy classes into the United States. [Expressed in millions of pounds and millions of dollars.] Year. Class 1. Quantity. 1868 1869 1870 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 1877 1878 1879 1880 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 , 1889 1890 , 1891 1892 1894 1885 1896 1897 1898 1899 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904... 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911 Founds. 4.6 2.5 6.5 6.0 16.9 6.0 2.4 13.1 8.6 9.3 9.9 6.2 26.8 20.6 13.5 11.6 20.7 Xtf • o 23.3 16.9 23.0 21.4 26.5 38.6 35.4 7.9 106.5 117.5 200.5 18.1 9.6 19.4 35.8 55.2 46.7 39.9 76.8 93.5 9L5 60.6 99.9 112.0 58.2 Value. Dollars. 0.9 .5 1.2 1.2 4.2 1.8 .8 8.6 2.2 2.2 2.4 1.1 6.4 4.8 3.0 2.6 4.7 3.0 4.4 4.3 3.7 4.8 4.8 6.0 7.7 6.6 16 16.6 19.5 34.3 3.3 1.6 3.7 6.8 8.2 7.2 7.3 16.3 21.8 22.6 14.4 20.6 25.9 13.9 Class 2. Quantity. Pounds. 1.9 4.5 2.8 17.7 41.1 49.5 27.1 7.8 3.2 2.5 3.0 1.7 13.3 4.4 2.3 1.4 4.5 3.9 4.9 9.7 5.6 6.6 7.0 7.0 5.4 7.0 1.3 14.7 13.0 37.9 3.9 2.2 7.3 6.7 13.7 13.7 21.9 16.4 12.1 11 6 17.9 11.6 Value. Dollars. 0.4 1.1 .8 3.2 9.0 12.7 6.2 2.2 1.2 .8 1.0 .4 a- O 1.3 .7 .3 1.1 .9 1.1 2.3 1.3 1.5 1.8 1.7 1.2 1.5 .3 2.9 3.1 7.2 .8 .6 2.1 1.6 1.2 2.5 2.8 5.2 4.4 3.6 3.2 6.9 3.2 Class 3. Quantity. Founds. 18.1 27.7 29.4 26.5 36.3 28.7 27.3 30.8 28.5 28.3 26.9 33.2 59.3 42.4 47.2 40.1 62.5 50.8 79.7 81.6 74.7 96.6 79.9 85.9 90.6 133.2 36.5 144.5 98.1 111.8 48.3 65.6 99.0 81.7 98.6 119.2 108.1 112.6 109.6 92.4 63.9 91.4 117.8 96.1 Value. Total. Quantity. Dollars. 2.7 3.7 3.4 3.3 6.4 6.0 4.6 4.4 4.5 4.0 3.6 4.0 7.7 6.0 6.6 5.6 7.8 5.6 8.3 9.7 9.1 11.1 9.3 9.4 8.8 10.3 3.4 13 1 9.5 11.7 4.6 6.2 9.2 7.7 9.0 11.6 12.2 13.9 14.7 14.3 9.1 10.2 14.9 12.5 Value. Founds. 24.6 34.7 38.7 50.2 94.3 84.2 66.8 61.7 40.3 40.1 39.8 40.1 99.4 67.4 63.0 53.0 87.7 68.2 107.9 114.4 97.2 126. 2 108.3 119.4 134.6 175.6 45.7 265.7 228.6 350.2 70.3 77.4 128.3 124.8 160.4 179.6 161.7 211.3 219.5 196.0 136.0 209.2 256.6 165.9 Dollars. 4.0 5.3 5.4 7.7 19.6 20.5 n.6 10.2 7.9 7.0 7.0 5.5 17.9 12.1 10.3 8.5 13.6 9.6 13.8 16.3 14.1 17.4 15.9 17.1 17.7 18.4 6.2 32.6 32.1 53.2 8.7 8.4 15.0 16.0 18.4 21.3 22.3 35.4 40.9 40.5 26.7 34.7 47.7 29.6 # In studying Table 171 the imports must be considered in the light of the conditions of the country and tariff legislation. Under free wool in 1895, 1896, and 1897 the importations were large. The imports for 1897, however, were abnormally large. It was expected during that year that in the pending revision, which resulted in the act of 1897, a duty would again be placed upon raw wool. Dealers therefore naturally endeavored to get into this country all the wool possible before the new tariff went into effect. Under these condi- tions 350.2 million pounds of wool were imported. This excessive supply, at least in part and probably largely, explains the small importation of wool in 1898 and 1899. During these years the coun- try was using up the surplus supply of 1897. (See Chart 5.) REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 203 o > -i 1 1 « \ s ^ \ 1 1 « \ 1 } f "•-^^I ^•N^*!!*—. -*^ / / / y y „-.• •■ -- ..- ^' .- — "■ ■"■ 1 ^^ --^ -^" IT ' -■ — . -.. — z^ ■ \ \ ^ "^ ^ '*" "^ ^ "* -^^ -^ --.^ ^ i.-i— rt:: **-" — — ■ --- MM* *^ — ' •M* _ llll- M— f / 1 -i \ \\ / \ / \ \ \ V \ 1 \ V \ / / % / / 1 ( / / t \ \ ^ '^S. 1 • \ \ \ \ 1 1 / 1 1 1/ / 4 C<^^ ,y \ ^ > ^> ) ^. T / .-'-r. /•" /ass yS36 /S37 /asa /ass \ /soo^ /SO/ /S02 /S03 /S04 /SOS /9oe /so? /SOQ /SOS /s/o /S// CaiiKT 5.— The inii^ortation of class 1, 2, and 3 wools, slioddy, rugs, wool waste, and noils into the United States, 1890-191L 204 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Hill Imports of rags, sJioddy. waste, and noih. — These same remarks apply, in general, to wool^i rags, shoddy, wool waste, and noils. (See Chart 5.) The importation of these materials into the United States from 1890 to 1911 is shown in Table 172. Table 172. — Imports of rags, shoddy, noils, and wool waste from 1890 to 1911. X i9BUr« 1890 1891 1892 1893 1894 1805 1896 1887 1898 1899 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904 1906 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911 RagH and shoddy. Noils. Wool waste. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. 584,172 $226,106 1,559,192 1276,029 4,401,094 $1,811,625 1,245,076 453,063 12,043 8,440 2til,310 98,504 103,011 30,952 10,973 6,502 159,185 68,778 158,300 46,128 40,777 13.193 93,477 33,564 48,606 15,570 45,350 16,966 10,929 4,335 6,55*»,199 408,048 1,110,149 2t)7,2ti3 4,«)5,417 826,509 11,268,104 tti0,029 1,247,558 243,529 5,986,810 1,44<>,887 28,192,399 1,739,470 7,934,5C7 1,497,717 9,033,88ti 2,107,471 1,156,070 75,062 479,170 109,242 435.036 145, '250 86,177 14, 191 132,078 39,877 35,041 10,193 156,427 20,247 144,306 50,413 13,864 4,267 14,627 3,833 217,814 73,950 216,698 72,264 57,703 8,366 98,245 32,045 130,952 38,998 62,796 10, .328 90,897 34,876 177,264 62,243 24,403 4,084 79,576 29,190 70,357 21,751 68,241 12, 748 90,314 31,625 111,579 41,003 242,499 69,027 393,491 161,094 450,936 164, 157 151,346 46,468 443,611 175,335 153,153 66,377 33,992 11,680 167,107 70,026 70,081 27,898 32,773 9,232 127,9fi5 49.754 89,855 35,813 362,5.55 95,193 122,227 76,253 94,806 32,901 252,879 71, 717 170,530 106,664 37,850 13,010 The importation in 1897 of the materials shown in Table 172 was stimulated by the desire to get these materials into the country before any change was made in the rates then existing. They were, therefore, not normal. The imports in 1896 under the act of 1894 are probably representative of importation under free-wool condi- tions. It should also be noted that it would be misleading to cite the totals of the imports in tliis table as imports of '* Shoddy, etc.," since they include noils and various high-grade wool wastes which have never been worked up into manufactured form. Production of wool in the United States. — Table 173 presents the production of wool for each year since 1890 as reported by the Bulle- tin of Wool Manufacturers. In addition to the number of sheep, number of pounds of washed and unwashed wool, the table shows the Bulletin's figures for the average weight of fleece, percentage of shrinkage, average scoured price, and total value of the clip. REPORT OF TARIFF ROARD ON SCHEDULE K. 205 Table 173. — Wool produced in the United States, 1890 to 1911 {not including pulled wool). [From Bulletin of Wool Manufacturers.] Year. 1890. 1891. 1892. 1893. imi. 1895. 1896. 1897. 1898. 1899. 1900. 1901. 1902. 1903. 1904. 1905. 1906, 1907. 1908. 1909. 1910. Number Average of sheep weight of AprU 1. fleece. Pounds. 44,336,000 6.06 43,431,000 6.04 44,938,000 6.50 47,274,000 6.38 43,502,000 6.395 39,949,000 6.375 36,470,000 6.38 34,784,000 6.30 a5, 672, 000 6.44 36,905,000 6.46 40,268,000 6.46 41,921,000 6.33 42,186,000 6.50 39,284,000 6.25 38,342,000 6.50 38,621,000 6.56 38,541,000 6.66 38,865,000 6.60 40,312,000 6.7 42,293,000 6.8 42,000,000 6.7 Wool, washed and unwashed. Pounds. 268,775,000 262,401,000 287,018,000 301,637,000 278,211,000 254,267,000 232,475,000 219,153,000 229,860,000 238,437,000 259,973,000 265,502,000 274,346,000 245,450,000 249,783,000 253,488,000 256,915,000 256,295,000 270,138,000 287,111,000 281,363,000 Per cent of shrink- age. 59.0 59.27 59.71 60.0 60.7 60.1 61.0 60.7 61.1 60.6 60.0 60.8 61.6 61.3 61.08 60.6 60.5 60.9 60.0 Scoured wooL Pounds. 115,208,000 112,327,000 117,700,000 122,799,000 112,092,000 101,139,000 91,285,000 87,366,000 89,545.000 93,706,000 101,025,000 104,615,000 109,771,000 96,226,000 95,795,000 97,967,000 100,011,000 100,959,000 105,799,000 113,542.000 112,606,000 Average value per scoured pound. 41.1 45.1 48.8 54.1 65.4 63.8 62.3 46.6 63.6 51.0 Total value of wool. $43,010,000 49,498,000 46,574,000 51,789,000 64,033,000 63,777.000 63,532,000 49,742,000 72,195,000 57,430,000 SHEEP INDUSTRY IN AUSTRALIA. Wool produced. — At the end of the year 1909 there were in Aus- tralia, including Tasmania, 91,676,281 sheep. The total wool pro- duced by these sheep amounted to 718,037,132 pounds. Of this amount, 676,520,093 pounds was shorn or pulled wool exported, 33,255,381 pounds was the estimated net export of wool on the skins, and 8,261,658 pounds was consumed in local mills. The total esti- mated value of this wool was $135,410,365.50, which gives an average value of 19 cents per pound. Size of flocJcs. — Eiglity-five and twenty-eight one-hundredths per cent of the sheep of AustraUa are in flocks of 1,000 or over; 50 percent of them are in flocks of 10,000 and over. The number of sheep in AustraUa, classified by States and size of flocks, is shown in Table 174. Table 174.- ■Classijication of sheep flocks in the several States of the Commonwealth oj Australia, excluding Tasmania,^ on Dec. SI, 1909. Size of flocks. New South Wales. Victoria. Queens- land. South Australia. Western Australia. Common- wealth. Under 500 2,122,448 2,845,033 4,903,584 8,258,996 6,062,339 7,403,259 9,483,248 3,932,843 1.190,228 2,624,725 2,276,982 2,109,279 1,926.349 1,433; 405 1,481,005 1,086,238 157,704 261,594 371.658 1.180,762 1,790,719 2,747,430 4,582,396 5,313,733 3,187,795 1,233,151 888,217 806,631 865,281 808,284 624,862 1,023,903 225, 102 484,565 350,714 326,768 485,061 390,645 1,150,801 1,111,611 431,572 6, 622, 593 500 and under 1,000 6, 623. 140 1.000 and under 2,000 8,517,920 2.000 and under 5,000 12, 716, 449 5.000 and under 10.000 10,485.392 10,000 and under 20,000 20,000 and under 50,000 50,000 and under 100,000 13,407.357 17,287,396 9,903.250 100,000 and upward 4,378,023 Total 46,202,578 12,937,983 19,593,791 6,475,431 4,731,737 89,941,520 1 Total number of sheep in Tasmania was 1,734,761. 206 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 207 i^Rnl The largest flocks are in Queensland and in New South Wales. In these States there are some flocks containing 100,000 sheep and over. The classification which contains the largest number of sheep is from 20,000 to 50,000. In flocks of this size there were 17,287,396 sheep. Size of holdings for pasturing sheejp.—Ahoni 59 per cent of the sheep in Austraha in 1909 were depastured on holdings of land of 10,000 acres and over. On holdings of 100,000 acres each there were 23, 1 1 7,- 187 sheep. The largest holdings are in Queensland and New South Wales. Tkc number of sheep in Austraha in 1909, classified accord- ing to the area of holdings, is presented in Table 175. Table 175.— Classijicatwn of sheep according to area of holdings on which depastured in the several States of the Commonwealth of Australia, exclvdinq Tasmania^ on Dec SI, 1909. ^ f if , . Area of holdings. 1 and under 50 acres 5<) and under 1(X) acres 100 and under 500 acres 500 and under 1,000 acres .... 1,000 and under 5,000 acres. . , 5,000 and under IC.OOO acres., 10,000 and under 20,000 acres. 20,000 and under 50,000 acres. 50,000 and under 100,000 acres 100,000 and upward Ill-defined areas Total New South AVales. 27,103 50,511 1,138,079 2,332,503 11,051,542 6,026.868 6,298,223 7,535,127 4.886,760 7,941,397 314,465 4ti,202,578 Victoria. 45,160 83. 3.33 1,592,944 2,293,097 4,9a3,689 1,255,231 1,492,544 1,033,487 89, 219 149,279 12,937,983 Queens- South Western land. Australia. Australia. 689 5,930 2,992 1,486 13,780 2,543 61,911 327,854 65,741 138,025 656,354 175,2.39 667,948 1,771,009 739. 100 628,771 672,983 240,899 1,401,483 659,0-32 244,104 2,585,134 927,376 200,950 2,930,789 294,261 225,525 11,131,930 1,215,210 2,828,644 45,609 30,976 19,593,791 6,475,431 4, 731, 737 Common- wealth. 81,890 151.653 3,186,529 6,595,218 19,1.33.348 8.324,7.52 9,09.5.986 12,288.074 8,426,554 23,117.187 540,-329 89,941,520 > Figures for Tasmania, 1,734,761. Distribution and breeds of sheep in Australia. — ^In 1909 the sheep of Australia were distributed as follows: 50.40 per cent in New South Wales, 14.11 per cent in Victoria, 21.37 per cent in Queensland, 7.07 per cent in South Australia, 5.16 per cent in western Australia, and 1.89 per cent in Tasmania. Something over 80 per cent of the flocks of Austraha are composed of merino sheep. In western Australia and parts of Queensland where semidesert conditions preyail, the merino is the universal type; but in the more settled and more fertile states the flockmasters have yielded to the demand for mutton and crossed some of their merinos with mutton sheep.' The number of sheep in New South Wales in flocks of 100 and over, classified as merino and crossbreds, is shown in Table 176. From tins table it will be seen that even in New South Wales the crossbreds have not reached great importance. Table 17Q.— Number of sheep in New South Wales, Australia, in flocks of 100 and over, classified by breeds. Class of slieep. Hams. Ewes. Wethers. Lambs. Total. Merino 550.151 101.010 19,626,422 2,056.;/'/ 10,440.995 1,249,592 8,029.096 1,490,. 528 39,24«.,C«4 4,897,907 Crossbreds Total (151,101 21,fKS3,199 11,690,587 10,119,624 44,144,-571 Further proof of the predominance of merino sheep is shown in the exports of wool from Australia classified as meruio wool on the one M hand, and crossbreds and longwools on the other. The exports expressed in bales (about 350 pounds) are presented in Table 177, on the authority of Dalgety & Co. of Australia. The per cent of merino and crossbred, etc., wool is given opposite the number of bales. Table 177, — Australian wool exported in bales. [Compiled by Dalgety & Co.] Year. 1900-1. 1901-2. 1902-3. 1903-4. 1904-5. 1905-6. 1906-7. 1907-8. 1908-9. 1909-10 Total ex- ports. Bales. 1.222.990 1.267.936 1,014.768 994.796 1,218,969 1.4,54,820 1.663.130 1,620.890 1,796, .347 1,921,507 Merino. Bales. 1,027,312 1,103,104 872,700 855,525 1,072,693 1,265,693 1,446.923 1,393.965 1,562,822 1,652,666 Per cent. 84 87 86 86 88 87 87 86 87 86 Crossbred and strong wools. BaJes. 195,678 164,832 142,068 139.271 146,276 189,127 216.207 226,925 233,525 269,039 Per cent. 16 13 14 12 13 14 14 SHEEP IN NEW ZEALAND. Wool produced,, — ^In April, 1910, there were 24,269,620 sheep in New Zealand. In April, 1911, there were 23,996,126 sheep in New Zealand, or 273,494 less than a year before. In 1909 New Zealand produced 192,822,002 pounds of wool, of which 5,202,821 pounds were used in local mills and 187,619,181 pounds were exported. Eighty-two and forty one-hundredths per cent of the wool exported was m the grease, 17.09 per cent was scoured and pulled wool, and 0.51 per cent was washed wool. Size of flocks. — ^The average size of the flocks in New Zealand in 1886 was 1,659 sheep; in 1896, 1,081 sheep; and in 1909, 1,074 sheep. Table 178 gives the number of flocks of sheep in New Zealand classi- fied according to their size. The table indicates that the tendency is toward smaller flocks. Table V7%.— Number and me of flocks of sheep in New Zealand, 1901, 1906, and 1909. Size of flock. Under 500 600 and under 1,000 1,000 and under 2,500. . 2,500 and under 5,000 . . 6,000 and under 10,000. 10,000 and under 20,000 20,000 and upward Total 1901 1906 11,700 11.793 3,059 3,431 2,189 2,558 688 782 397 394 189 213 138 94 18,360 19,265 1909 12,389 4,219 3.391 1,044 510 227 78 21,858 Distribution and breeds.— In 1886 there were 5,285,907 sheep in the North Island of New Zealand. In 191 1 this number had increased to 12,814,353. In 1886 there were 9,888,356 sheep in the South Island. In 1910 this number had increased to 11,181,773. At first the in- crease of the flocks m the North Island was retarded by the wars with the Maori inhabitants and because the land was rugged and wooded. in recent years, however, the flocks in the North Island have increased much more rapidly than in the South Island. I 208 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 209 About 90 per cent of the sheep in New Zealand are mutton sheep. In 1911, excluding the breeding stock, there were 21,525,084 crossbred and long-wooled sheep and only 1,765,419 merinos. It is the frozen mutton export trade which has made the crossbred so important in the flocks of New Zealand. There are 22 freezing works in opera- tion in New Zealand and in 1909 the exports of frozen sheep and lambs amounted to 5,189,057 carcasses. Even with this lar^e ex- port of slaughtered sheep, the flocks of New Zealand are not seriously mipaired. Table 179 snows the breeds of sheep in New Zealand, showing, on the one hand, the prominence of the English breeds among the breeding stock, and the negligible number of merinos among the flock sheep. Table 179, — Number of sheep in New Zealand on Apr. SO, 1911. Table 180. — Number of sheep in British South Africa, by subdivisions, in 1910. Breed. Stud sheep and flock rams: Merinos Lincoln Ronmey Border Leicester English Leicester Shropshire Southdown Other breeds Total Flock sheep: Crossbred and other long-wools Merinos Grand total North South Island. Island. 11,778 42,142 88,576 11,727 184,945 71,070 14,950 81,625 17,394 82,061 7,664 18,245 20,497 8,422 6,242 38,295 352,036 353,587 12,407,320 9,117,764 54,997 1,710,422 12,814,353 11,181,773 Total for Dominion. 53,920 100, ao3 256.015 96.575 99,455 25,899 28,919 44,537 705,623 21.525,084 1,7(»,419 23,996,126 SHEEP INDUSTRY IN BRITISH SOUTH AFRICA. Wool produced. — The number of merino, crossbreds, and native sheep in British South Africa in 1910 was about 31,000,000. About two-thirds of these sheep are merinos. The remaining one-third is composed of the woolless native sheep or its cross with the merino. The merino wool produced by the Cape is of liigh quality but is not imported into the United States because of its heavy shrinkage. Reliable figures on the production of wool in British South Africa are not available, but since practically all wool produced is exported, the exports of wool from British South Africa are a good index of the production. The exports of wool were: In 1908, 104,300,000 pounds; in 1909, 130,900,000 pounds; and in 1910, 121,700,000 pounds. The exports for 1910 consisted of 14,1 10 pounds of washed wool, 4,208,461 pounds of scoured wool, and 117,449,687 pounds of wool in the grease. The wool in the grease was valued at $17,395,869. Distribution of sheep. — The Cape Province proper contains one- half of the sheep in British South Africa. Nine million six hundred and forty-one tnousand nine hundred and ninety-four of her sheep in 1910 were merinos and 6,023,859 crossbreds or natives. Orange Free State has a larger per cent of merinos than this. Six million fifty-nine thousand eight nundred and tliirteen of her 7,621,164 sheep were reported as meiinos. The sheep in the up-country States, sucn as Rhodesia, are native stock. The number, distribution, and breeds of sheep in British South Africa are given in Table 180, on the authority of United States consuls. Division. Sheep. Merino or Avooled. Cape of Good Hope: Cape Province (proper) Bechuanaland Transkei Tembuland Griqualand East Pondoland (East and West). Orange Free State > NataP Transvaal Rhodesia i Total. 9,641,994 215, 78:3 503,257 838,372 1,048,666 231,246 6,059,813 2,019,614 Crossbreds or native. 6,023,859 492, 764 36 10,964 15,408 4,535 1,561,351 1,150,094 Total. 15,665,853 708,547 503,293 849,336 1,064,074 235, 781 7,621,164 1,068,998 3,169,708 215,715 31,102,467 1 Figures for 1909. Goats in *Jie Cape. — South Africa being one of the three important countries of the world in the production of mohair, the number of Angora goats there is important. These figures are available only for the Cape of Good Hope and are given in Table 181. Table 181.— Number of goats in the Cape of Good Ilope in 1910. TGiritorial divi Bales. 212.398 2,762 P.ct. 99 1 Bales. 8,599 10,821 P. Bales. 7,512 215, 100 P.ct. 3 ] 97 Bales. 1,378,110 487,057 P.ct. 74 26 Crossbred and all strong wc K)! breeds.. 5t> Total 215, IGO 19,420 222,012 11,865,167 0n England East India wools are the most important m her sales. Tlie Antwerp wool sales Handle more extensively than any others the South American wools. South American bales weigh approxunately 1,000 pounds Vn ^ "^ «"^ ^j~«» • Not reported separately. » Not reported. Table 190 shows that the greatest relative advance in the shoddy industry was from 1859 to 1869, when the value of the products increased 339.3 per cent. From 1869 to 1879 the value of products increased 182.1 per cent, and from 1879 to 1889 they increased 58.1 per cent. From 1889 to 1899 there was a decline of 14.7 per cent and a slight increase of 10.6 per cent from 1899 to 1909. The capital invested in the shoddy industry varied in about the same propor- tion as the value of the products. The wages paid in 1909 were $906,691, w^hich shows an increase over 1899 of 21 per cent. Mate- rials used in 1889 were valued at $6,003,035; they had declined in value in 1899, 18.8 per cent, and from that increased only 2.4 per cent in 1909. The largest increase in value of the product, as com- pared with the cost of the material between 1899 and 1909, is due to the decided fall in the price of rags. Distrihution of tie shoddy industry. —The distribution of the shoddy mdustry m the United States is shown in T ble 191. Table 191. —Shoddy hidustry in the United States, hy States, 1909. Numlxir of establishments Persons employed, number balaned employees, number .\^ age earners (average number).. Capital Expenses, total .'.'..', Services Salaries '.[ Wages .'.!]";:::; Miscellaneous expenses. . . Materials, total cost Products, total value . United States. Massa- chusetts. 88 2,237 196 2,041 $6,877,959 $6,641,046 $1,196,376 $289,685 $906,691 $448,886 $5,000,706 $7,446,364 27 497 55 442 $1,518,773 $1,608,530 $290,948 $88,696 $202,252 $124,181 $1,193,401 $1,765,609 New York. 14 248 25i 223 $905,363 $806,326 $139,558 $33,265 $106,293 $42,782 $623,986 $869,364 Ohio. Pennsyl- vania. 4 468 30 438 $1,095,562 $1,137,725 $262,149 $62,379 $199,770 $133,932 $741,644 $1,257,173 20 486 36 450 $1,627,096 $1,770,058 $232, 779 $47,039 $185,740 $74,061 $1,463,218 $2,051,118 All other states. 23 5,538 50 488 $1,671,165 $1,318,407 $270,942 $58,306 $212,636 $73,930 $978,457 $1,503,100 \r. T^ l^^^^y industry, as might be expected, is located cliiefly m the btates where the carded woolen manufacturers are the most numerous. In 1909 the 27 miUs in Massachusetts produced prod- wlf^T^/'^ •^^'^^^'^^^' ^t 2^ estabhshments of Pennsylvania, located chiefly m and near Phdadelphia, returned products valued 216 EEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. at $2,051,118, and the 4 establishments, of Ohio returned products vahied at $1,257,173. The figures for OMo show that the unit of shoddy production in that State is much larger than in the others. The 4 estabUshments there turned out products almost equal in value to the products turned out by the 27 estabhshments in Massa- chusetts, and^two-thirds greater than the products turned out by the 14 estabhshments in New York. Cleveland is the chief center of shoddy manufactures in Ohio. Mechanical equipment of shoddy miUs, — The macliinery of a shoddy mill is comparatively simple. It consists of the picker— i. e., a macliine which first breaks the weave structure of the rag and reduces it to a fibrous mass, and the final reduction of this fibrous mass to the form of shoddy is accomplished by means of cards or gamett machmes. In 1909 there were in the United States 346 pickers, 453 sets of cards, and 158 gamett machines producing shoddy. Materials used in the shoddy industry.— The quantity and cost of materials used in the shoddy mdustry m the United States is shown in Table 192. Table 192.— Materials used in the shoddy industry of the United States, 1909 and 1899. Item. Total cost ; - Wool, foreign and domestic, in condition purchased.. Wool, foreign and domestic, in scoured condition Tailors' clippings, rags, etc Waste and noils of wool, camel's- hair, mohair, etc Chemicals and d vestuffs Fuel, rent of power, mill supplies, and all other materials 1909 1899 Pounds. 237,097 196.097 64,561,713 7,567,579 Cost. 15,000,706 98,032 3,051,045 917,976 138,241 795,412 rounds. 422,349 242.997 79,623,312 4,236,028 Cost. $4,875,192 127,099 "*3,* 558," 706' 693,972 111,095 384,320 rer cent of increase. Pounds. Cost. 143.86 119.30 U8.92 78.65 2.57 122.87 114.27 32.28 24.43 106. »7 1 Decrease. Table 192 shows that a small amount of both foreign and domestic wool is used, chiefly for mixmg, in the shoddy industry in the United States. It shows also that during the decade the amount of this wool used in these mills has dechned. The waste and noils of wool used increased duringthe decade 78.65 per cent m quantity and 32.28 per cent in value. The noils were used generally for mixmg with shoddy to improve its spinning qualities; the wastes were used in making garnetted stock. Tailors' chppmgs and rags, both new and old, are the chief raw material of UiQ shoddy mdustry. In 1909 there were consumed 64,561,713 pounds of rags, which is 18.92 per cent less than was consumed in 1899. , . , , , Products of shoddy industry.— In 1909 the industry produced 48 375,724 pounds of shoddy, valued at $5,699 260. The remainder of 'the $7,446,364 worth of products consisted chiefly of garnetted waste wool extract, and the amounts received for commission work. The quantity of shoddy produced in 1904 was 54,401,295 pounds, valued at $6,831,689, aud in 1899 it was 39,014,661 pounds, valued at $5,388,378. r i PART I: GLOSSARY ON SCHEDULE K SECTION 4 217 SECTIOBT 4.— WOOL MAHUFACTXJEES UST lEADXITG COTJITTEIES. I i WORSTED INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. Development, — Until comparatively recent times wool combing was done by hand. Just prior to the middle of the nineteenth century the inventions of Lister, Heilmann, Donisthorpe, Holden, and Noble raised mechanical combing to a basis of conmaerical success. Before this time the labor involved in hand combing made it practical to comb only the long-luster Enghsh wool. In 1867, when Schedule K was drafted, therefore, the worsted industry was a comparatively small and infant indiistry in the United States, confined to the pro- duction of dress goods, 'braids, etc. Under the reciprocity treaty with Canada (1854-1860) it had had access to free raw materials, but the high cost of hand combing and the limited demand for a spe- ciahzed product found the industry, even in 1859, with products valued at only $3,701,378, and these were produced by three mills. While the duty placed on long class 2 wools by the tariff of 1867 was a sUght check to the worsted industry, the high rates on ita products and the rapid improvement in combing machinery caused the industry to increase rapidly. By 1869 there were 102 worsted establishments in the United States, which turned out a product val- ued at $22,090,331. The improvement in combing machinery made it possible to comb the short wool. This fact and the growth of the frozen-mutton trade in the countries of the Southern Hemisphere encouraged the raismg of crossbred wool, and tliis wool, in turn, stim- ulated the production of worsteds for men's wear. In addition, fashion favored the smooth worsted fabric as against the rough woolen, and the industry went ahead at an unprecedented rate. Some carded woolen manufacturers turned their attention to weaving worsted yarns and thus became a market for large combing and spin- nmg worsted mills. . ^ , From 1869 to 1879 the value of worsted products mcreased only to $33,549,942, but the inroads that the new industry was making on the carded woolen manufacture were already evident. The value of the products of the latter increased between 1869 and 1879 only 3.3 per cent, while the value of the products of the worsted industry increased during the same period 51.9 per cent. From 1879 to 1889 the products of the worsted mills more than doubled, and stood in 1889 at $79,194,652, while the products of the carded woolen branch declined from $160,606,721 in 1879 to $133,577,977 in 1889. By 1899 the worsted industry had passed the woolen industry. Its products were valued at $120,314,344 and the products of the woolen mdustry were valued at $118,430,158. By 1909 the value of the products of the worsted branch of the industry rose to $312,624,663, while, on the contrary, the value of the products of the woolen branch of the industry declined to $107,118,858. ^ii 220 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. Organization of the worsted industry.— The distinctive features of the present organization of the worsted industry are the large average size of the mills and the specialization in processes. The average value of products per establishment in 1909 was $964,891, and in 1899 it was only $646,851, thus showing an unmistakable growth in the size of the producing unit. In the carded woolen branch, on the con- trary, tlie average value of products per establishment in 1909 was only $182,485, and in 1899 only $114,425. This is also anmcrease due in part to the disappearance of a large number of small country mills, but the fact still remains that the worsted industry is composed of much larger mills than the woolen industry. In the worsted industry there are a large number of mills which weave only; there are others which comb and spin, and a number which buy tops and do nothing but spin, and a very few which comb only. A comparatively few mills carry the raw material through BYerj process from raw wool to finished cloth. These are some of the largest mills in the world and turn out a large proportion of the total output of the industry. In these mills, however, there is a noticeable specializing in processes, for scouring, combing, spinning, weaving, and finishmg are performed at least in separate depai-tments, and often in separate and distinct plants. The tendency toward specialization is on the increase, but the mdustry in this country h^ not yet reached the stage in this respect that it has reached abroad, where the subdivision of processes is carried much further. In the woolen industry, on the contrary, the tvpical mill combines all processes from raw wool to finished cloth. There being no combing and drawmg in the woolen process, there are fewer separate steps, and the machinery reciuu-ed, as compared with tlie worsted machinery, is more simple and less costly. A few woolen mills spin only, but these make yam for carpet and knitting industries rather than for sale to carded woolen manufactures. Table 193 presents, in a comparative summary, the progress of the worsted mdustnea since 1859. Tablb W^.— Comparative mmmanj of worsted industry in the United States, 1859 to 1909. Number of establish- ments Capital Number salaried offi- cials, clerks, etc Salaries Average number wage earners Total wapes Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used,. VaJue of products Number of spindles — Number of looms Number of combing machines Census of — 1909 1904 324 220 $295, 057, 923 $162, 464, m 3. $6,034, 213 747 ill. $47,131, $14,854. $207,786. $312,624, 2,624, 4o>270i 248 871 507 936 663 230 1,925 1.S47 1899 $2, 1,369 342,218 69,251 $26,269,787 $20, $8,301,579 $6, $109,658,481 $77. $165, 745, 052 $120, 1889 1879 1869 1859 186 143 $132, 168, 110 $88, 085, 116 $20, 1 615 I $935,217 1,618.207 30,910 1,312 1, 57,008 42, 002,738 814,944, 767,611 $4,917, 075,222l$50,706, 314, 344 $79, 194, 15, 371,026 26,372 755. 19, 978 966 760 769;$22, 652 $33, 080 095 ft73 76 374,043 (*) 683,027 (») 013,628 549,942 240. 118 14,411 288 102 $10,085,778 12,920 $4,368,857 (») $14,308.198'$2.442,775 $22,090,331i$3,701,378 $3,230,000 («) {') 2,378 $543,684 (») 200,617 6,128 161 (») (J) » Includes proprietors and Qrm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900 and 1905, but not included in this table. » Not reported separately. • 8 Not reported. EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K* 221 The phenomenal increase of the worsted mdustry is shown in Table 193. The capital invested in it increased between 1859 and 1869, 212!3 per cent; between 1869 and 1879, 102 per cent; between 1879 and 1889, 234.2 per cent; between 1889 and 1899, 94.1 per cent; and between 1899 and 1909, 123.2 per cent. In 1909 the amount of capital invested in the 324 worsted mills was $295,057,923. The total amount of wages paid did not increase as fast as capital invested, except between 1859 and 1869 and between 1899 and 1909. Wages paid increased between 1899 and 1909 134.7 per cent. The cost of materials used increased between 1859 and 1869 485.7 per cent; between 1869 and 1879, 53.9 per cent; between 1879 and 1889, 130.3 per cent; between 1889 and 1899, 52 per cent; and between 1899 and 1909, 169.6 per cent. The increase in the value of products between 1899 and 1909 (205.6 per cent) was greater than the increase in the cost of material. The figures relating to the value of product of worsted as well as other branches of wool manufactures contain a certain amount of duplication, because they include the value of partially manufactured products of some mills which were subsequently used as raw mate- rials in other mills. They were therefore counted both in the former case as partially manufactured products made for sale, and are included again in the value of the finished products into which they enter in the mill purchasing partially manufactured products. As specialization in top making and yarn spinning increases, this dupli- cation of products will become more and more important. Distribution of the worsted industry. — The distribution of the worsted industry in the United States is shown, by States, for 1909, in Table 194. Table 1^4^.— Worsted industry in the United States, hy States, 1909. Item. Number of establishments Persons employed, number Salariea employees, number Wage earners (average number) — Capital Exi)enses, total Services Salaries Wages Miscellaneous expenses Materials, total cost Products, total value Item. Number of establishments Persons employed, number Salariea employees, number Wage earners (average number) Capital Expenses, total Services Salaries Wages Miscellaneous expenses Materials, total cost Products, total value United States. Connecticut. Massachusetts. 324 114,461 3,213 111,248 $295,057,923 $275,828,061 $53,186,618 $6,034,747 $47,151,871 §14,854,507 $207,786,936 $312,624,663 17 3,826 165 3,661 $10,790,252 $9,298,388 $1,881,764 $278,771 $1,602,993 $269,493 $7,147,131 $10,172,044 74 38,109 998 37,111 $99,158,231 $90,570,395 $18,626,229 $1,867,134 $16,759,095 $5,887,615 $66,056,551 $106,099,221 New Jersey. 21 10,972 339 10,633 $29,551,141 $24,019,287 $4,862,488 ri6,368 $4,146,120 $838,642 $18,318,157 $29,641,621 New York. 15 5,670 177 5,493 $14,560,384 $11,689,598 $2,488,933 $376,223 $2,112,710 $937,993 $8,262,672 $12,797,041 Pennsylvania. 99 20,454 659 19,795 $57,519,759 $54,765,798 $8, 879,. 'WO $1,227,292 $7,652,208 $2,582,888 $43,303,410 $59,416,106 Rhode Island. 67 23,491 660 22,831 $63,813,671 $62,352,913 $11,697,783 $1,207,287 $10,490,496 $2,530,466 $48,124,664 $69,869,048 All other States. 31 11,939 215 11.724 $19,664,485 $23,131,682 $4,749,921 $301,672 $4,388,249 $1,807,410 $16,574,351 $24,629,582 I BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABB ON SCHEDUIiE K. REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 2^3 kll m The worsted industry in the United States is higUy centralized. By far the largest percentage of the worsted products was produced, in the order of their importance, in the States of Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Pennsylvania. If the worsted goods produced in and near the three cities of Lawrence, Mass., Providence, R. I., and Philadelphia, Pa., be subtracted from the total products of the woi-sted industry, the resulting figure will be comparatively small. There are, it is true, numerous small worsted mills scattered through Connecti- cut, New Jersey, New York, and other States. There are also occasional large worsted mills. A good example of tliis latter fact is a worsted mill in Cleveland, Ohio, contauaing a thousand looms; but it is nevertheless true that the three cities mentioned above are the important centers of worsted production in tlie United States. Massachusetts shows the greatest actual increase in tlie value of products since 1904. Its value of worsted products then was $51,973,944 as compared with $106,099,221 in 1909. In 1904 the value of products in New Jersey was $1 1 ,925,126 and this had increased in 1909 to $29,641,621. The gain in this State was largely due to the growth of a few large concerns built by German capital. Mechanical equipmeni of worsted mills. — Tlie macliinerj used in the worsted industry m the United States in 1909 is shown m Table 195. Table 195. — Machinery used i/i the worstai industri/ in the United States in 1909* Table 196. — Materiab used in the worsted-goods industry in the United States, 1909 and 1899. Item. Sets of cards, total number Woolen Worsted Cot ton Producing spindles, total number Woolen Worsted Doubling aJad lirtstingspindles, totai number Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms, total number Woolen Worsted Cotton Wool-combing macMncs Number. 2, 1, 1,995. 307. 1,606, 81, 628, 28, 596, 5, 45, 6. 39, 1, 389 702 557 130 622 850 (.04 168 im 590 398 620 270 892 128 250 925 The most important index of the productive capacity of worsted p>i ]1 .q is the number of combing maciiines. In 1909 there were of these 1,925 in the United States; 631 were reported from Massachu- setts, 265 from New Jersey, 332 from Pennsylvania, 461 from Rhode Island, and the others from various other States. In 1904, of the 1,312 combs in this industry 1,053, or 80.26 per cent, were of foreign manu- facture. Materiah used in the worsted industry. — The materials used in the worsted industry in the United States in 1899 and 1909 are presented in Table 196. Item. Total cost Wool, foreign, in condition purchased: Founds Cost Wool, domestic, in condition purchased: Founds Wool, foreign and domestic, in scoured condition, pounds Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair: Founds Cost Mohair: Pounds Cost Cotton: Founds Cost Rags, tailors' clippings, etc.: Founds Cost Shoddy, mungo and wool extract: Founds Cost Wool waste and noils: ^ Founds Cost Tops, not made in mill: Founds Cost Yarns, not made in mill: Woolen- Founds Cost Worsted- Pounds Cost Merino (woolen and worsted) — Pounds Cost Cotton- Pounds Cost Silk- Pounds Cost Spun silk- Pounds Cost All other materials which are components of the product, cost Chemicals and dyestufFs, cost Fuel, mill supplies, soap, oil, and all other materials, cost Materials made in mill for use therein; Woolen yam, pounds Worsted yam, pounds Merino yarn (woolen and worsted), pounds 1909 $207,786,936 1899 177,075,222 150, 629, 400 $47,999,085 237,088.015 $61,238,802 230,580,497 4,570,129 11,400,170 1.945,238 $652,319 4,222.667 $588,990 2,014,906 $165,508 1.-335,882 $223, 147 2,699.393 $833,511 20,269,307 $14,201,937 593,091 $388,077 53,327,377 $50,457,209 95,636 $53,589 22,280,887 $6,636,433 108,641 $601,358 102,936 $313,986 $1,958,040 $5.4.50,427 $14, 624, 348 10, 743, .304 76. 457, .382 1, 163, 759 57,263,393 $15,159,048 122,714.543 $29,147,093 103,338,616 1,742,573 $391,. 332 1,905,967 $972,207 5,276,751 $524,515 1,807,827 $303,644 1,885,867 $558,494 5,260,775 $2,701,582 2,847,091 $1,402,189 18,896.863 $14, 704, 172 419,4.34 $147,891 13, 420, .590 $3,032,039 26, 418 $144,971 47,533 $166,672 $168,403 $2,627,140 $4,923,830 (') (») (') Per cent of increase. 169.59 163.05 210. U 93.20 110.10 123. 13 162.26 257.80 2.06 » 32. 90 » 19.98 12.29 126.11 » 26.51 43. 14 49.24 285.29 425. €9 1 79. 17 1 72. 32 182.29 243.15 I 77. 20 163.76 66.02 118.88 311.24 314.81 116.56 88. .30 1,062.71 107. 47 197.01 I Decrease. « Does not include camel, alpaca, vicuna, or mohair noils. » Figures not available. The total cost of materials used in the worsted industry in 1909, as shown in Table 196, was $207,786,936, or an increase during the decade of 169.59 per cent. The amount of foreign wool used in con- dition purchased increased 163.05 per cent in quantity and 216.64 per cent in value, while the amount of domestic wool used in condi- tion purchased mcreased only 93.20 per cent in quantity and 110.10 per cent in value. The scoured weignt of both foreign and domestic wool used in 1909 was 230,580,497 pounds, an increase of 123.13 per cent for the decade. The amount of camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair used increased during the decade 162.26 per cent in quantity and 'I ill 224 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TABTFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 225 257.80 per cent in value. There was practicaUy no i^c^.^'^,^^*^^ amount of mohair used. The raw cotton consumed declmed 19.98 per cent in quantity and increased 12.29 ner cent m value. Over against this smaU decrease, however should be set the amount of cotton yam consumed by the worsted mdustry. The amount of th^ used increased during the decade 66.02 per cent m q^^nUty aM 118 88 per cent in value, a rate of mcrease smaller than that for raw wool The larffe amount of cotton yam, as distmguished from raw cotton, used indicates that the industry buys its cotton m the form of yari and does not spin cotton for itse f , The ra^s, shoddy, wool waste, etc., reported m this table as used m worsted mills, are used in those miUs which are predominantly worsted but which also make some carded woolen goods. The quantity of tops not made m mdl used m 1909 was 20,269,307 pounds, or an mcrease of 285.29 per cent during the decade. The quantity of worsted yam made m the miU for uS therein was 76,457,382 pounds in 1909. In addition to this, worsted miUs purchased 53,427,377 pounds ^^ ^^^"^^^^ P"^' rry,^ ... Production ofaU-wool woven goods by the worsted industry.— i he toM production of all-wool woven goods in the worsted mdustry of the United States in 1899 and 1909 is shown m Table 197. Table 197 —All-wool woven goods produced by the worsted industry in the United States, 1899 arid 1909. Total square yards. Total value - 1909 Woolen cloths, etc., for men's wear: Square yards Value *'" Woisted coatings, serges, and suitings, for men's wear: Square yards Woolen overcoaVingsVcfoakings, kerseys, etc., for men's or wo- men's wear: Square yards Worsted oVercoatings'and cloaking', for'men's or women's wear: Square yards Wool dress gtwl's". etc! 'operaand similar flannels, and otlier simi- lar all-wool dress goods: Square yards Worsted dress goods, caslimeres, serges, etc., for women's wear, and buntings: Square yards Value Mohair dress goods: Square yards Value JUl other: Square yards Value 231,417,399 SltiO,887,116 5,740.393 14,743,903 114,595,341 $97,633,617 1,067.8&1 51,021,579 $595,915 3.540.919 $2,617,312 103.811.093 378,000 $149,552 1,828,829 $1,360,284 1899 113,599,033 $(K),482,528 3,582,788 $2,506,918 50,201,572 $39,562,773 1,718,008 $1,705,646 16,690 $7,778 3,330,974 $1,598,450 .')4. 480. 569 $U,9W,513 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 103.71 166.01 275,432 $114,442 60.22 89. Q8 128.26 146.99 137.84 140.11 2,625.94 7,661.54 6.62 63.74 90.55 252. 5d 663.99 1,068.62 I Decrease. In 1909 the worsted industry nroduced 231,417^399 squa^^^ of all-wool woven goods valued at $160,887,116. Ihis snows an LcreLn 103.71 pfr cent in quantity and 166.01 per cent m vdu^ The carded woolen fabrics reported in this table were made m mills which are predominantly worat^d but which make m addition certain Sd woolen fabrics. The woolen overcoatmgs, etc., produced in these mills declined decidedly during the decade. The most im- portant increase in production during the decade was in worsted coatings, serges, etc., for men's wear. These increased 128.26 per cent in quantity and 146.59 per cent in value. The largest relative increase was in worsted overcoatings and cloakings, but the quantity of these is comparatively insignificant. Worsted dress goods in- creased 90.55 per cent in quantity and 252.56 per cent in value. Production of cotton warp woven goods in the worsted industry. — The production of cotton mixed and cotton-warp woven goods produced by the worsted industry in the United States in 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 198. Table 198. — Cotton-mixed and cotton-warp woven goods produced by the worsted industry in the United States, 1899 and 1909. 1909 Cottor-mixed woven goods and goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or hair: Total square yards Total value Cotton-mixed woven goods: Square yards Value Wool-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, etc., and other cotton-warp goods, for men's wear: Square yards Value Worsted -filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, etc., and other cotton-warp goods, for men's wear: Square yards Value Worsted-filliDg dress goods, delaines, cashmeres, etc., and other stuffs, for women's wear: Square yards Value Linings, Italian cloths, and lastings: Square yards Value JUl other cotton-warp goods: Square yards Value ~ 123,652,993 $40,320,724 3,658,118 $1,617,890 1.114,720 $822,738 25,903,081 $13,796,737 64,468.422 $14,397,359 26,514.518 $8,767,464 1,994,134 $718,536 1899 62,223,766 $19,895,061 2,662.120 $1,562,548 2,073,990 $1,356,735 10,540,927 $6,401,491 39,611,517 $8,466,106 6,987,330 $1,953,139 347,882 $155,042 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 98.72 102.67 37.41 3.54 » 46. 25 >39.36 145. 74 115.52 62.75 72.42 279. 47 348.89 473.22 363.45 1 Decrease. The amount of cotton-mixed woven goods, i. e., goods made from merino yarn, produced by the worsted industry is comparatively small. The total production of cotton-warp worsted goods, including the small amount of cotton-mLxed goods, was, in 1909, 123,652,993 square yards, or an increase of 98.72 per cent during the decade, and valued at $40,320,724, or an increase of 102.67 per cent during the decade. The worsted fabrics with wool filling show a decline, but the worsted cotton-warp fabrics with worsted filling increased during ^he decade 145.74 per cent in quantity and 115.52 per cent in value. Worsted-filled dress goods and linings of various Kinds also show a v«ry decided increase. THE WOOLEN INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. Development and organization. — The manufacture of carded woolens began as a household industiy among the earliest settlers in America. Power carding machines were first introduced in 1 794, power spin- ning between 1810 and 1820, and power weaving between 1820 and 32080"'— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 15 226 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. 1830. The hand-spinning ^lenny and hand-power loom, however, continued in common use until the Civil War. Fiior to 1859 practically all fabrics were made by the carded woolen process, and the country was covered with a large number of small mills which supplied local needs only. Tlie prmcipal fabric manufactured during the first half of the nineteenth century w^as broadcloth, but in 1840 tne manu- facture of cassimeres had been begun on power looms, and by 1859 these had largely superseded broadcloths. In 1859, when the worsted industry had hardly begun to exist, there were 1,260 woolen mills, with a product valued at $61,894,986. The extraordinary demand for woolen fabrics to supply the armies during the Civil War caused the industry to expand rapidly, and by 1869 there were 2,891 mills, with a product valued at $155,405,358. Since that time the number of woolen mills has steadily decreased, and although from 1869 to 1879 the industry a httle more than held its own in value of products, the decade between 1879 and 1889 marked the partial displacement of woolen fabrics by the more popular worsteds. By 1889 the value of output had fallen to $133,577,977. ^ Many small mills throughout the country were forced out of business by the products of the large worsted and woolen mills of the East, and many large w^oolen mills abandoned the manufacture of carded woolens and took up the weav- ing of worsteds. Since 1889 the output of the carded woolen mills has generally declined, with an occasional revival, such as that of 1904, due either to the low prices of rags, shoddy, waste, noils, and high-shrinking wook, or to tne popular demand for the rough-finish cheviots, tweeds, and cassimeres. The decline of this industry finds its contrast in the increase in the output of worsted mills, and the fundamental reason for the decKne on the one hand and increase on the other is the change in fashion. Table 199 presents a comparative summary of the progress of the woolen industry in the United States from 1859 to 1909. Table 199. — Comparative summary of woolen goods industry in the Untied States, 1859 to 1909, C«nsus of— 1904 Number ol estab- lishments Capital Number of salaried ofBcials, clerks, etc Salaries Avwage number of wage earners Totalwages Miacellaneooa ex- penses Cost of materials used Value of products.. Nimiber of spindles Number of looms. 587 8120,317,070 2.111 $3,322,068 52,183 122,576,175 16,530,031 $65,651,634 1107.118,858 1,663,310 27,262 792 $140,302,488 2.477 $3,430,855 72,747 $28,827,556 $8,218,766 $87,830,825 $142,196,668 2,129.727 32,957 1800 1889 1,035 1.311 $124, 386, 262 $130, 989, 940 2,246 $2,934,048 68.893 $24,757,006 $7,268,634 $71,011,956 $118,430,158 1,906,581 34,881 12.436 J $2,339,737 76,915 $26,139,194 $8,402,623 $82,270,335 $133,577,977 1,815,380 39,118 1S79 1869 1,990 $96,095,564 (»> 86,504 $25,836,392 (») $100,845,611 $160,606,721 1,756,746 35,634 2,891 $96,824,531 1,260 $30,862,654 (») (*) 80,053 $26,877,575 (») $96,432,601 $155,405,358 1,845.496 84,183 1859 (*) {«) 41,360 $9,610,254 (») $36,586,287 $61,894,980 <'^ (« t Includes proprietors and firm members, with tbek salaries; number only reported in 1900 and 1906, but not included in this table. t Not reported separately. • Not reported. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 227 The capital invested in the carded woolen industry increased be- tween 1859 and 1869, 220.2 per cent; between 1869 and 1879 it decUned 2.8 per cent; between 1879 and 1889 it increased again 36.3 per cent; between 1889 and 1899 it decreased 5 per cent, and between 1899 and 1909 it declined still further 3.3 per cent. The total wages paid in the carded woolen industry increased between 1859 and 1869, 179.7 per cent; between 1869 and 1879 decUned 3.9 per cent; between 1879 and 1889 increased 1.2 per cent; between 1889 and 1899 decreased 5.3 per cent, and between 1899 and 1909 decreased 8.8 per cent. In each case the census of 1904 shows an increase over the previous census. In fact, the output during that year of the cardea woolen mills was greater than in any census since that of 1879. Distribution of the woolen industry. — The distribution of the woolen industry in the United States, by States, in 1909 is shown in Table 200. Table 200.— Woolen industry m the United States, by States, 1909. Item. Number of establishments Persons employed, number Salaried employees, number Wage earners (average number). . Capital Expenses, total Services Salaries Wages Miscellaneous expenses Materials, total cost Products, total value United States. 587 54,294 2,111 52,183 $120,317,070 $98,078,908 $25,897,243 $3,322,068 $22,575,175 $6,530,031 $65,651,634 $107,118,858 Connecticut. 36 4,010 145 3,865 $8,479,116 $7,545,726 $2,031,948 $270,265 $1,761,683 $337,770 $5,176,008 $8,447,886 Maine. 55 6,775 225 6,550 $15,861,086 $11,559,949 $3,199,845 $323,650 $2,876,195 $707,293 $7,652,811 $12,803,297 Massachusetts. 94 15,933 480 15,453 $32,020,912 $29,922,365 $8,108,437 $910, 786 $7,197,651 $1,979,832 $19,834,096 $32,216,705 Item. Number of establishments Persons employed, number Salaried employees, number Wage earners (average number). Capital.. : Expenses, total : Services Salaries Wages Miscellaneous expenses Materials, total cost Products, total value New Hamj)- shire. 33 • 3,825 150 3,675 $9,494,518 $7,084,297 $1,840,137 $187, 186 $1,652,951 $452,633 $4,791,527 $7,772,921 New York. 30 2,325 72 2,253 $5,260,575 $4,398,956 $1,183,418 $134,925 $1,048,493 $285,840 $2,929,698 $4,945,364 Pennsyl- vania. 104 7,207 333 6,874 $15,811,911 $14,732,234 $3,410,002 $466,829 $2,943,173 $1,096,884 $10,225,348 $16,033,077 Rhode Island. 21 2,156 63 2,093 $5,052,949 $4,310,462 $1,162,383 $115, 180 $1,047,203 $247,367 $2,900,712 $4,731,192 All other States. 214 12,063 643 11,420 $28,336,003 $18,524,919 $4,961,073 $913,247 $4,047,826 $1,422,412 $12,141,434 $20,168,416 The carded-woolen industry is much more widely distributed than the worsted industry. The States in the order of their importance in tlie value of woolen products produced in 1909 were Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, Maine, Connecticut, New Hampshire, New York, and Rhode Island. Mechanical equipment of woolen rmUs. — The machinery used in the carded-woolen industry in the United States in 1909 is shown in Table 201. The important things to note in this table are the number of sets of cards and the producing woolen spindles. The combs and worsted and cotton spindles reported in the table show that in some of tlie carded-woolen mills some worsted and cotton products, prob- ably cotton warp for wool or worsted filled goods,*are produced. BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTH.E K. Table Wl.—Maekinery used in the woolen industry in the United States in 1909. It«m. Wool-€ombing machines, total number Sets of cards, total number Woolen Worsted Cotton ; - Producing spindles, total number Woolen Worsted Cotton -.-•:.-■-••■. v ■ • • Doubling and twisting spmdies, total number. Woolen WOTSted Cotton Jjooms, total number Woolen Worsted Cotton Number. 1, 1, 63 3,92ft 3,798 24 104 557,572 477,355 48,79ft 31,421 105,738 80,414 20,303 5,022 27,2G2 26, soft 359 97 Materials used in iU woolen industry. —The materials used in the carded-woolen industry in the United States in 1899 and 1909 are shown in Table 202. Table 2G2.~Matenal8 uad in the woolen goods industry in the United States, ^909 and 1899. Item. Per cent of decrease. Total cost. Wool, foreign, in condition purchased: Pounds f»0g* Woo!, d(wnestie, in condition purchased: Pounds r^-jgt Wool, foreign ind doinestic, in scoured condition, pounds. . . Camel , al paca, and vicuna nair and mohair: Pounds Cost All other animial hair and fur: Pounds Cost Cotton: Pounds £»|jg'(; ^,_.. Rags, tailors' dippings, etc.: Pounds Cost - - Shoddy, mungo, and wool extract: Pounds Cost Wool waste and noils: Pounds Camel, aipa(»V vicuna, and mohair noils: Pounds Cost Tops: Pounds OosI " 1 Figures not available. 13.523,687 $3,649,504 73,514,264 $23,779,436 60,126,473 1,290,055 $346,634 16,429,806 $848,178 15,801,394 $1,926,419 38,387,554 $2,691,458 20,118,305 $2,835,067 23,380,298 $6,590,130 962,877 $92,772 558,938 $412,590 sXjQcnnMi* 22,521,954 $4,598,624 127,678,662 $29,899,066 89,366,903 1,355,426 $494,168 19,679,181 $1,090,796 34,967,959 $2,755,485 0) $2,817,663 31.228,940 $3, 767, 192 13,473,154 $3,249,982 299,471 $70,037 305,333 $163,iK>4 39.95 20.64 42.42 20.47 32.72 4.82 29.86 16.51 22.24 54.81 30.09 4.48 35.58 24.74 2 73.53 •102.77 «21.17 132.46 «83.05 s 151. 63 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 229 Table 202. — Materials u^ed in the woolen goods industry in the United States, 1909 and J599— Continued. Item. Vams purchased: Woolen — Pounds Cost Worsted- Pounds Cost Merino (woolen and worsteds- Pounds Cost Cotton- Pounds Cost Silk and spun silk- Pounds Cost All other materials which are components of the product, cost- Cliemieals aiid dyestuffs, cost Fuel, mill supplies, soap, oil, and all other materials, cost Materials made in mill for use therein: Woolen yam , pounds AVorsted yarn, pounds Merino yam, pounds Cotton yarn, pounds Shoddy, pounds 1909 338,131 $170, 193 5.821,394 $5,576,492 1.876,073 $264,867 16,888,501 $3, 855, 752 70,959 $227, 319 $1,804,739 $3,370,501 $7,209,493 80,761,458 3,097,658 30,124,141 2,639,899 31,021,323 1899 3,059,771 $1,272,954 6,214.076 $4,791,079 3,215.245 $516,636 21.922.136 $3,782,240 57,964 $218,146 $600,383 $3,968,020 $6,955,522 <•? («) (») 2, 783, 739 35,626,165 Per cent of decrease. 88.95 86.63 6.32 116.39 41.65 48.73 22.9ft U.94 '22.42 »4.20 » 200. 60 15.06 13.65 5.17 12.93 I Increase. 2 Figures not available. The quantity and value of almost all important raw materials, except wool waste and noils, used by the woolen industry decUned between 1899 and 1909. The amount of foreign wool in condition purchased used in 1909 was 13,523,687 pounds and the amount of domestic wool in condition purchased used was 73,514,264 pounds. The scoured weight of this foreign and domestic wool was 60,126,473 pounds, which is a decline of 32.72 per cent in comparison with 1899. Cow hair and similar animal hairs used in 1909 amounted to 16,429,808 pounds. This was practically all spun into yarn and sold to the car- pet industry. The cotton used shows a decline during the decade of 54.81 per cent in quantity. Thirty-eight million tliree hundred and eighty-seven thousand five hundred and fifty-four pounds of rags, tailor clippings, etc., were used in makmg 31,021,323 pounds of shoddy made for use in the mill. The amount of shoddy purchased m 1909 was 20,118,305 pounds, or a decrease of 35.58 per cent, and the amount of wool waste and noils purchased was 23,380,289 pounds, or an increase of 73.53 per cent. It should be noted that wool as a raw material is not as important in the carded woolen industry as m the worsted industry, and that shoddy, noils, waste, and other materials are extensively used. The large amount of woolen and merino yam made in the mill for use therein and the comparatively small amount of yams purchased, indicate that the mills produce the yarn which they consume. Cotton yam used, however, is almost entirely purchased from cotton spinners. All-wool woven fabrics produced hy the woolen industry. — All-wool woven goods produced by the woolen industry in the United States m 1899 and 1909 are shown in Table 203. 230 BEPOKT OP TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUIiE K. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 281 Table 20X-All-wool woven goods produced by the woolm industry in the United Statm, 1899 and 1909, Total square yards. Total value Wool cloths, etc., for men's wear: Square yards Worsted coatings,' sergesj and suitings for men's wear: Square yarm Value ••• - > Woolen overcoatings, cloakings, kerseys, etc., for men s or women's wear: Square yards Value ....,......••.•--•- .....-- Worsted overcoatings and cloakings for men's or women s wear: Square yards ■■• Wool dress goods* etc'.,' opera and simUar'flannels, and other simi- lar all-wool dress goods: Square yards Worsted di^ 'goods,' ©adimeres, serges, etc., for women's wear, and buntings: Square jrards Value -.; Carriage cloths of all weights: Square 3rards Flanneb for underwear: Square yards Value Blankets: Square yards Value All other Square yards Value IwW 1890 91,526,966 $58,966,651 35,103,586 $24,547,156 5,059,728 $4,369,536 13,629,906 $10,209,277 199,444 $225,773 25,550,037 $13,788,186 1,990,256 $1,165,422 1,246,423 $623,981 3,399.913 $952,978 4,402,330 $2,563,019 686,343 $541,323 102,760,660 $57,274,641 Per cent of increase, 1899-1909. 30. 715, G38 $20,136,951 3,829,107 $3,450,777 17,011,18« $14,426,064 860,443 $559,612 30,273,238 $11,378,030 3,231,517 $1,321,879 1,220,408 $006,999 9.324,720 $2,344,559 5,266,643 12,274,774 1.027,769 $684,996 1 10.93 2.95 11.03 21.90 32.14 26.62 119.88 »29.23 176.82 159.66 U5.57 21.01 I 38. 41 111.84 2.13 U0.48 163.54 159.35 116.41 12.67 18.90 120.97 I Decrease. The production of all-wool woven goods by the woolen industry m the Umted States declined 10.93 per cent in quantity and increased 2.95 per cent in value. There was an increase in the production of wool cloths for men's wear of 11.03 per cent m quaxitity and 21.90 per cent in value. The production of woolen ^Jf ^^^^^^f ' $^^^^^^^^ Stc, however, decUned 19.88 per cent m quantity and 29.23 per cent in value The production of wool dress goods dechned 1 5.57 per cent m quantity, but increased 21.01 per cent m value. CoUon mixed woven goods pr^uce Decrease. The production of cotton-mixed woven goods in the carded woolen mdustry declined during the decade 38.19 per cent in quantity and 41.02 per cent in value. The products aJl show a decHne except flannels for underwear and blankets, which show slight increases. Cotton-warp woven goods produced. — The production of cotton-warp woven goods by the woolen industry in the United States in 1899 and 1909 is shown in Table 205. Table 205.— Cotton-warp woven goods produced by the woolen industry of the United States, 1899 and 1909. Total square yards.. Total value Wool-fllhng cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, etc., and other cotton-warp goods, for men's wear: Square yards Value "]] Woreted-fiUing cassimeres, doeskins,' jeans,' twwds, etc.,' jm^ otner cotton-warp goods, for men's wear: Square yards Value Wool-fiHingovercoatings'and'cloakings: Squareyards Value Wo20.86 1.03 22.50 67.66 32.00 73.87 4.82 37.88 43.11 58.59 80.34 60.17 62.01 > Does not include small quantities of camel, alpaca, and vioona hafr. and mohair. s Decrease. a Figures not available. The amount of domestic wool used by the carpet industry in the United States is less than 500,000 pounds and is included in the above table with foreign wool. The quantity of wool used in condition pur- chased by the mdustry increased 23.64 per cent during the decade, and the value increased 45.02 per cent. This larger increase in value, as compared with quantity, mdicates a decided rise in the price of third-ckss wools purchased by the industry abroad. The amount of animal hair, raw cotton, rags, shoddy, wool waste, etc., used in the unmanufactured condition by the industry is comparatively small, but no doubt a large quantity of them are used by the industry in the semimanufactured form of yarn. The cotton, linen, jute, and other vegetable fiber yarns purchased by the industry are used chiefly for the backs of pile carpets. The table shows that 37,184,277 pounds of woolen yarn and 14,093,571 pounds of worsted yarn were made in the carpet mills for use therein. | Production of carpets and rugs in the United States. — ^The production of carpets and rugs in the United States for 1899 and 1909 is pre-, sented^in Table 210. Table 210. — Carpets and rugs produced by the carpet and rug industry in the United States, 1899 and 1909. i - 1909 1899 Percent of increase, 1899-1909. Total value $71,188,152 $48,192,351 47.71 Carpets and mgs: Sauare vards .. 81,218,881 $66,966,338 57,176,729 $48,475,889 12,507,261 $13,680,806 4,576,368 $8,737,768 3,960,626 $5,216,607 « 6, 927, 198 * $5, 514, 130 11,405,514 $8,576,906 17,799,762 $6,749,672 24,042,152 $18,490,449 3,184,097 $3,691,900 767,248 $1,381,562 6,131,862 $2,408,960 1,400,233 $1,660,322 12,558,712 $9,347,705 $4,221,814 76,410,050 $43,551,158 64,238,761 $35,405,926 5,026,778 $4,762,269 « 3, 587, 126 •$4,030,842 2,686,493 $2,979,867 4,280,066 $3,743,353 8,737,449 $5,520,665 39,920,849 $14,368,930 12,171,289 $8,145,232 327,598 $342,262 339,784 $545,967 2,722,323 $1,175,951 3,651,661 $3,680,618 5,129,923 $2,400,434 $4,641,193 6.29 Value 53.76 Carpets, including rugs made by sewing together strips of carpet: Sauare vards. 110.99 Value 36.91 Axminster and moquette — Sauare vards 148.81 Value..... 187.27 WUton— Sauare vards 27.58 Value. 116.77 Brussels— Sauare vards 47.43 Value 75.06 Tapestry velvet and similar carpets— Sauare vards. 61.85 Value. 47.30 Tapestry Brussels and similar carpets— Sauare vards. 30.64 Value 55.36 Ingrain — Sauare vards - »55.41 Value. ... 153.03 Bugs woven whole: Sauare vards. 97.53 Value..... 127.01 Axminster and moquette— Sauare vards. 871.95 Value. 978.68 Wilton- Sauare vards. 125.80 Value 153.05 Ingrain art squares — Sauare vards 125.24 Value. 104.85 Bmyma— Sauare yards. 161.65 Value 154.89 All other mgs— Sauare vards. 144.81 Value 289.42 All other nroducts. value. 19.04 1 T)Acr6&s6 * Wilton velvet carpets are included with Wilton in 1899 and with tapestry velvet, etc., In 1900. 1 236 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 237 The total production of carpets aiid nigs together increased from 76,410,050 square yards in 1899 to 81,218,881 square yards in 1909. The quantity of seamless rugs increased from 12,171,289 square yards to 24,042,152 square yards, or 97.53 per cent. The quantity of car- pets and carpeting declined during the same penod 10.99 per cent. This decline is due to the lar^e decline in ingram carpets; aU other carpets show an increase durmg the decade. These hgures do not indicate the entire extent to which rugs have supplanted carpets, because a large quantity of rugs are made bv sewmg together strips of carpets, and these are mcluded in figures for carpets. THE HOSIEBY AND KNIT GOODS INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. Development and arganizatim,— Although mechanical knitting was introduced into the United States as early as 1832, some time elapsed before sufficient improvements were made to aUow the manufacture of knitted hosiery and underwear to develop extensively. In 1849 there were 85 knitting mills, most of them sma 1, usm^c hand machines, with a product valued at only $1,028,102 Since the Civil War the advance of this industry has been rapid, and, although it is sUU behind the worsted industry in value of product, it has passed the woolen industry since 1899. . . , ^ . , j i .u^ In its early days wool was the prmcipal material used by ine hosiery and \nit-goods industry, and for this reason t^e census classified it with wool manufactures. Begmning with 1899, how- ever it has been treated as a separate division of ^he textile mdustry on account of the increase in its use of cotton. In its organization the industry is composed largely of knittmg miUs proper, i. e., the majority of them do not spm their own yarns, but buy them ready- made from spinning mills which are classified bv the census as cotton, woolen, or worsted miUs. according to the character of the yams made. Some knitting mills, however, spin their own varn. A comparative summary of the development of the hosiery and knit-goods industry in the United States since 1859 is presented m Table 211. Table 211.— Comoorafm mmmaru of hosiery and Jcnit-goods industry in the United States, 1859 to 1909. Number of establish- ments Capital Samried officials, clerks, etc Salaries Wage eamefs, average number Total wages Miscellaneous expanses. Cost of materials used . . Value of products Census— 1909 1904 » 1.374 1163,641,171 5 721 17,523!^ 1,079 1106,663,531 12d,287 $44,743,822 113,055,794 $110,048,676 $200,143,527 1899 4y tRMI $4,436,941 103,715 $31,536,024 $10,320,176 $76,593,782 $136,558,139 921 $81,860,604 2,809 $3,124,798 83,387 $24,368,627 $6,599,865 $51,071,859 $95,482,566 loov 796 $50,607,738 « 1,621 '$1,685,153 59.588 $16,678,119 $3,627,245 $35,861,585 $67,241,013 1879 $15,579,591 $6,701,475 (*) $15,210,951 $29,167,227 197 $10,931,260i$4,035,510 1860 1859 14,788 $4,429,085 (*) $9,835,823 $18,411,564 9,103 $1,661,972 (*) $3,202,317 $7,280,606 1 Exclusive of the statistics of 5 establishments engaged urimsu-ilym the manu^^^ of other products. Th^SSblfchments manutoctured hosiery and knit goods t? the va^ue of «^7^m^ in 1900 and 1905. J Includes proprietors and firm members, with thefr salaries; number only reportea in isw ana iwra, Init not included in this table, > Not reported separately. « Not reported. The capital invested in this industry increased between 1859 and 1869, 170.9 per cent; between 1869 and 1879, 42.5 per cent; between 1879 and 1889, 224.8 per cent; between 1889 and 1899, 61.8 per cent: between 1899 and 1909, 99.9 per cent. The amount of wages paid also increased, but in general not so fast as the capital invested. This increased between 1859 and 1869, 166.5 per cent; between 1869 and 1879, 51.3 per cent; between 1879 and 1889, 147.4 per cent; between 1889 and 1899, 46.9 per cent; and between 1899 and 1909, 83.7 per cent. The cost of materials used increased between 1859 and 1869, 207.1 per cent; between 1869 and 1879, 54.6 per cent; between 1879 and 1889, 135.8 per cent; between 1889 and 1899, 42.4 per cent; between 1899 and 1909, 115.5 per cent. Distribution of the hosiery and Jcnit goods industry. — Table 212 pre- sents the distribution of the hosiery and knit goods industry in the United States, by States, in 1909. Table 212.— Hosiery and knit goods industry in the United States, by States, 1909. Item. Number of establishments. . . Persons employed , number . . Salaried employees. . Wage earners Capital Expenses, total Services Salaries Wages Miscellaneous expenses. . Materials used, total cost All products, total value United States. 1,374 135,008 6,721 129,287 $163,641,171 $175,371,720 $52,267,250 $7,523,428 $44,743,822 $13,055,794 $110,048,676 $200,143,527 Connecti- cut. 21 3,522 182 3,340 $6,463,632 $5,225,820 $1,687,385 $324,237 $1,363,148 $489,888 $3,048,547 $5,800,692 Illinois. 43 3,101 188 2.913 $5,115,992 $4,938,859 $1,337,496 $221,020 $1,116,476 $368,998 $3,232,365 $5,946,737 Massachu- setts. 65 10,250 309 9,941 $12,477,388 $12,287,791 $4,370,901 $516,073 $3,854,828 $945,284 $6,971,606 $14,736,025 New Hampshire. 21 3,198 69 3,129 $3,529,826 $4,157,043 $1,240,125 $96,898 $1,143,227 $281,246 $2,635,673 $4,764,119 Item. Number of establishments. . . Parsons employed, number. . Balaried employees Wage earners Capital Exi)enses, total Services Salaries Wages Miscellaneous expenses. . Materials used, total cost All products, total value New York. $52 $59 $16 $1 $14 $4 $38 $67 360 37,370 1,421 35,949 582,240 589,470 716,039 8^3,784 842,255 196,118 677,313 130,296 Pennsylvar nia. 464 39,740 1,533 38,207 $38,989,088 $43,667,741 $13,408,339 $1,657,953 $11,750,386 $3,265,833 $26,993,569 $49,657,506 Rhode Island. 17 1,840 66 1,774 $2,878,478 $3,381,983 $782,367 $147,248 $635,119 $155,159 $2,4^,457 $3,865,792 All other States. 383 35,987 1,953 34,034 $41,604,527 $42,123,013 $12,724,598 12,686,215 $10,038,383 $3,353,269 $26,045,146 $48,242,360 The hosiery and knit goods industry in the United States is widely distributed, although confined primarily to the eastern half of the United States. The States rank in the order of value of product as follows: New York, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Illinois, Connecti- cut, New Hampshire, and Rhode Island. In the production of under- wear, both flat and ribbed, and of fancy knit goods, New York leads. Pennsylvania leads in the production of hosiery. Massachusetts and Wisconsin are also important States in the production of hosiery. Next to New York in the production of flat underwear, rank Con- necticut and Massachusetts. In the production of ribbed underwear next to New York, rank Pennsylvania and Ohio, and, in addition, there are numerous mills scattered over the Southern States produc- ing ribbed underwear. In the production of fancy knit goods, Illinois, Pennsylvania, and Ohio rank after New York. ti 1 238' EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K, REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 239 Mechanical eqmpjnerU ofkniUing miUs, — The machinery used in the hosiery and kmt goods industry m the United States in 1909 is pre- sented in Table 213. The number of knitting machines is the chief index of production, and the sewing machines are used primarily for the making of garments from knitted piece goods, and sewing seams in partially kmtted garments. Table 213.— Machinery %md in the hosierif and knit goods industry in the United States in 1909. Item. Woolen cards Producing spindles, total Cotton... Woolen and worsted Doubling and twisting spindles. Knitting machines Sprmg beard needle Latch needle Sewing machines Number. 854 729,935 472, 773 257, 162 6,855 112,206 14,573 97,633 43,885 Materials used in the Initting industry.— The materials used in the hosiery and knit goods industry in the IJnited States in 1899 and 1909 are presented in Table 214. Table 2U.— Materials used in the hosiery and knit goods industry in the United States, 1909 and 1S99. Total cost.. Wool, foreign, in condition purchased: Pounda rjugt • Wool, domestic," in oondliUon purchas^ Poimds Cost ......,......»....-.--• Wool, foreign and domestic, scoinred, poimds. Cotton: Pounds Cost Wool waste and noils: Pounds Cost Shoddy, mungo and wool extract: Pounds Cost. Tops, not made in mill: Pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill: Woolen- Pounds Cost Worsted- Pounds Cost Merino — Pounds Cost Cotton- Pounds Cost....* Sftk and spun silk— Pounds Cost Linen, jute, and other vegetable fiber— Potmds Cost Chemicals and dyestufls, cost . . :-•,:• \v V Js" \ ' 'lli;" " ' ' Fuel, rent of power, mill supplies, and all other materials, cost — 1909 $110,241,053 472,707 $252,419 6,596,061 $2,666,636 5,582,839 75.416,023 $8,803,509 8,586,261 $2,813,129 7,482,553 $919,970 121.565 $92,995 6,140,265 $3,834,09i 10,370,004 $10,116,32S 4,014,609 $2,667,051 216,987,611 $48,165,749 982,753 $3,606,599 241,754 $180,818 $2,541,939 $23,579,820 1899 $51,195,868 3,446,838 $1,344,397 14,507,060 $3,917,738 13,031,308 49,451,301 $3,501,592 6,276,464 $1,487,907 3,770,626 $488,792 133,614 . $92,103 2,621,893 $1,257,687 5,823,215 $4,865,304 1,981,484 $642,535 131,820,068 $22,204,918 266,247 $946,801 116,160 $111,205 $1,023,161 $9,251,768 Per cent of in- crease. 115.33 186.29 181.22 154.53 131.93 157.15 52.51 147.18 62.73 89.07 98.44 88.21 19.02 .97 134.19 204.88 78.08 107.93 102.61 315. OS 64.61 116.91 269.11 280.93 106.12 62.51 148.44 154.87 While the amount of raw wool in condition purchased used by the hosiery and knit goods industry declined between 1899 and 1909, the amount of wool waste, noils, shoddy, woolen, worsted, and merino yarn used increased during the same decade. Raw wool used calcu- lated on the scoured basis amounted in 1909 to 5,582,839 pounds, which is 57.16 per cent less than was used in 1899. But in 1909 there were also used by the industry 8,586,261 pounds of wool waste and noils (an increase of 62.73 per cent) ; 7,482,553 pounds of shoddy (an increase of 98.44 per cent); 6,140,265 pounds of woolen yarn (an increase of 134.19 per cent); 10,370,004 pounds of worsted yard (an increase of 78.08 per cent); and 4.014,609 pounds of merino yarn (an increase of 102.61 per cent). The consumption of cotton and cotton yarn far exceeds the consumption of wool in all its forms. In 1909 the raw cotton consumed by the industry amounted to 75,416,023 pounds, valued at $8,803,509 (an increase over 1899 of 52.51 per cent m quantity and 147.18 per cent in value). In 1909 the industry con- sumed 216,987,611 pounds of cotton yarn, valued at $48,165,749 (an increase over 1899 of 64.61 per cent in quantity and 116.91 per cent in value) . Products of {he knitting industry. — ^The products of the hosiery and knit goods industry have already been discussed on pages 159 to 161 of this report. THE FELT-GOODS INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. Development. — Although felt was one of the earhest forms in which wool was manufactured in the United States, the industry did not receive recognition by the census until 1879. In that year there were reported 26 mills with a product of $3,619,652. The value of the products of this industry have steadily increased. From 1889 to 1899 the increase was 38.8 per cent, and from 1899 to 1909, 83.4 per cent. A comparative summary of the progress of the felt-goods mdustry in the United States since 1889 is presented in Table 215. Table 215. — Comparative summary of the felt-goods industry in the United S tales y 1889-1909. Census- Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number Salaries Wage earners, average number Total wages Miscellaneous exjMnse Cost of materials used Value of product 1909 43 $12,754,833 293 $614,271 3,544 $1,711,880 $874, 194 $6,967,206 $11,852,626 1904 $9,667,136 201 $350,594 3,254 $1,366,754 $612,766 $5,754,026 4Pc>> ^ %3nr% 1899 36 $7,126,276 136 $231,065 2,688 $1,024,836 $356, 164 $3,801,028 $6,461,691 1889 34 $4,460,621 1124 1 $157,916 2,142 $883,380 $232,871 $2,809,937 $4,654,768 1 Includes proprietors and firm members and their salaries; number only reported in 1900 and 1905, but not included in this table. The capital invested in the felt-goods industry increased between 1889 and 1899, 59.7 per cent, and between 1899 and 1909, 79 per cent. The total wages paid increased between 1889 and 1899, 16 per cent, and between 1899 and 1909, 67 per cent. The cost of materials increased in about the same proportion as the value of the products. tl 240 BBPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 241 They increased between 1889 and 1899, 35.3 per cent, and between 'X'hIS oS Mustry.^rhe distribution of the felt- good^ Ss^^^^ States, % Stat^ for 1909 is presented ITTable 216 The States in the oraer of their importance as to value of product were New York, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Con- necticut, and Pennsylvania. Tablb 2U.-'Felt-ffOoda industry in the United StaU$, by StaUSy 1909. Number of establish- ments -■- Persons employed, number Salaried employ- ees, number Wage earners, av- erage number . , Capital Expenses, total Services Salaries Wages , Miscellaneous ex- penses Materials, cost... Value of products United States. Connecti- cut. 43 3,837 293 Of 3nfk 112,754,833 $10,167,551 12,326,151 1614,271 $1,7U,880 SS74,194 $6,967,206 $11,862,626 chusetts. 273 10 263 $741,754 $670,266 $135,003 $14,542 1120,481 $20,239 $515,003 $743,298 10 682 il «31 $2,044,861 $1,093,316 $443,549 $l4l,452 $302,097 $143,809 $1,406,958 $2,349,108 New Jersey. 217 9 208 $833,255 $725,503 $117,829 $11,875 $105,954 $53,614 $554,060 $856,640 IPeno* sylvania. 12 1,314 80 1,225 $4,565,211 $3,801,812 $867,707 $257,948 $609,759 $2n,042 $2,657,063 $4,482,258 206 23 183 $1,034,110 $475,577 $131,960 $31,413 $100,647 $69,364 $274,253 $566,421 AU other States. S 1,145 HI 1,034 $3,535,042 $2,501,078 $630,083 $157,041 $473,042 $310,126 $1,560,869 $2,851,901 Materwh med in tkefeU^oods industry. —The matmaJs used in the felt g^^ industry in tfie United States fn 1899 and 190? axe shown in Tabfe 217. The largest rates of increase shown ^T^^^^^ J^^ animal hair, shoddy, wool waste, noils etc., but tbe amount of raw wool used is larger than any other smgle item. Table 217. -MateriaU med infelt-goodi industry in the United States, 1909 and im. Item. Total cost. Wool, foreign and domestic, in condition parohaasd: Pounds rvjg* "■■ Wool foreign and domestic^ in scoured condition, pounds. . . . Animal hair and fur Pounds Cost Cotton: Pounds Cost Rags, tailors* clippings, etc: Pounds r Cost ..,......•.••.-•»•»••"••--••-*••*""■"*•'"' Shoddy, mungoVand wool extract: Pounds (^Oglt Waste and noils' of v/ool, mohair, camel hair, etc.: Pounds Cost Cotton 3mm, not made in mill: Pounds All other" materi^'which arc components of the product, eost . Chemicals and dyestufls, cost- • ;: • ■ •-„:;;x- -,;• ii;j ' Fuel, rent of power, miU supplies, and all other materials, cost. Materials made hi mUl for use therem: IWO $6,967,206 1b9v $3,801,028 Woolen yam, pounds. Shoddy, pounds.. 12,409.826 $3,927,393 9,308,172 8.148.411 $242,744 1.375,670 $155,815 1,115.092 $57,368 2.536,243 $261,878 4.874,712 11,220,110 263,226 $64,013 $380,916 $219,801 $427,180 4,543,267 876,000 9,606,263 $2,196,440 6,468,097 2.819,621 $125,803 1,225.850 $77,683 a) $60,098 712.373 $80,737 2.653,500 $552,902 51,707 $9,657 $109,480 $128,296 $370,833 Per cent of increase. 83.30 29.18 78.81 43.91 189. 00 92.96 12.22 100.58 l,^% 835 14.49 2.'i6.03 224.36 83.70 120.64 409.07 572. 18 95.46 71.39 12.47 •29. 93 .■■llllli il Products of the felt-goods industry.— The products of the felt-goods industry have already been presented and discussed on page 165 of this report. Summary of wool felt liats.— In 1909 there were 31 establishments reported by the census as producing wool-felt hats. These establish- ments employed 1,986 wage earners, had a capital of $2,475,748, used materials valued at $2,472,263, and turned out products valued at $4,382,411. The products have been presented in detail on page 157. THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. Men's clothing.— The products of the clothing industry in this country are of great diversity and the census does not attempt to give them separately according to the textile fiber of which they are composed, rroducts of wool, cotton, and other materials are reported together. The products of men's clothing include men's, boys', and diildren's clothing and such garments as overalls, market frocks, butchers' aprons, uniforms, bathing suits, knee pants, gym- nasium and sporting clothing, etc. While onhr a portioli of these are composed m whole or in part of wool, the figures relating to the industry are significant. In 1909 there were 5,584 establishments engaged in the production of men's clothing in the five leading cities of Rochester, New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Chicago, employing 218,255 persons and turning out products valued at $485,677,493. Table 218 presents the summary of this industry for 1909. Table 2t8. — Summary ofmen^s clothing industry in the United States for 1909. Item. Number of establish- ments Persons engaged in manufactures Proprietors and firm members Salaried employees. Wage earners (aver- age number) Capital Expenses Services Salaries Wages Materials Miscellaneous Value of products United States. 5,584 218,255 7.375 19,697 191.183 8230,703.112 $438,488,649 $112,727,058 $23,082,137 $89,644,921 $252, 522. 567 $73,239,024 $485,677,493 Rochester. 196 8,559 241 686 7,732 $10,808,113 $17,355,581 $4,970,713 $1,162,151 $3,808,562 $8,681,561 $3,703,307 $18,878,508 New York City. Philadel- phia. 2,350 70,637 3,368 6,994 61,275 $78,372,785 $176,761,862 $42,707,495 $7,314,866 $35,392,629 $99,428,640 $34,625,727 $195,555,371 Baltimore. 414 9,480 592 655 8,233 $11,396,544 $19,267,471 $5,092,802 $815,431 $4,277,371 $10,819,420 $3,355,249 $21,852,"261 310 16,974 430 1,454 15,090 $15,624,572 $26,817,911 $7,925,505 $1,590,697 16,334,808 $15,818,020 $3,074,386 $29,236,539 Chicago. 37,537 812 3,835 32,890 $35,753,963 $75,278,065 $19,624,413 $4,195,296 $15,429,117 $42,033,777 $13,619,875 $83,735,584 Women's clothing. — ^As in the case of the products of the men's clothing industry, the women's clothmg industry includes in its products those made of wool, cotton, and all other materials. These products include cloaks, capes, jackets, wrappers, shirt waists, dresses, skirts, cloak linings, underwear, infants' clothing, dress stays, quilted linings, belts, dress shields, suits, pleating, aprons, sleeves, petticoats, Idmonas, dressing sacks, hose supporters, and night robes. The total number of establishments engaged inpro- ducing these articles in 1909 in the cities of Rochester, New York, I Figaxes not avaOablek sDecratse. 32080'— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1- 46 242 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Philadelphia, Baltunore, and aiicago, was 4,558, employing 179,021 persons and turning out products valued at $384,751,649. lable 219 presents the summary of this industry for 1909, togethei with the proportion produced in each of the cities mentioned above. Table 219.— Summary ofwomm*8 chthing industry in the United States for 1909. Item. establish- Number of ments Persons engaged in man- ofactures Frapiietora and finn members Salaried employees. . Wage earners (aver- age number) Capital JSxpenses Services Salaries Waces Materials Miscellaneous Valne of products United O'tates. 4,sm 179,021 «»482 18,79ft 153,743 $129,301,057 $341,489,2^ $98,986,029 »20,417,768 178,568,261 $206,788,226 $33,715,001 $384,751,649 Rochester. 4 92 1 16 75 106,915 $147,380 $41,179 $11,459 $29,720 $82,959 $13,242 $153,086 New York City. 2,995 110,567 4,332 11,977 94,258 $80,761,9'26 $2:^6.090,095 $66, 616, 938 $13,099,250 $53,517,688 $144,845^007 $24,628,130 $266,477,381 Philadel- phia. 351 15,627 576 1,551 13.500 $10,590,279 $26,293,811 $8,104,608 $1,530,733 $6,573,875 $16,665,940 $1,523,263 $30,132,842 Baltimore. m 2,953 99 282 2.572 $1,685,753 $3,919,147 $1, 148, 323 $270, 207 $878,116 $2,279,483 $491,311 $4,333,171 Clilcagu. 304 6,666 354 TOT 5.615 $5,193,048 $14. 136. 673 $3,911,981 $915,022 $2,996,959 $8,658,2«) $1,566,443 $15,676,925 WOOL MANUFACTURES IN THE UNITED KINGDOM. Distnbution.— In 1907, 71.68 per cent of the persons emoloyed in the woolen, worsted, and shoddy industnes of the Umted Kingdom were employed wthin the comparatively small area of the West Riding of Yorkshire. Bradford is the most important city. It is important aa a distributing center of raw materials, as the center of worsted combing and spinning, and as a center for the production of worsted stuffs or dress goods for women's wear. Huddersneld is the cjenter for the production of the best worsted goods for men's we^r. Fancy, cheap woolens made in imitation of Scotch tweeds are made in the Colne Valley near Huddersfield. Heavy woolens, overcoat- ings, cheap cloakings, blankets, and army cloths are made m and near Dewsbury and Batley. Tliis is the center of the shoddv and rag business, and much of the reclaimed wool is turned, by skillful blending and manipulation, into cheap but serviceable fabrics. Fabrics made at Morley are the lowest quahty made. Leeds, once noted for its broadcloths, has now taken up the manufacture of woreted coatings, seizes, etc. Halifax is best known as a producer of worsted yarn. Rochdale, in Lancashire, is unportant for its t\ Siimels The southern part of Scotland is noted for its Scotch tweed trade. Galashiels is the most important center. The Scotch tweed industry employs about 12,000 persons, 318 sets of cards, 243,000 spmdles, and 3,100 looms. - .. ^ i j i xt j The "West of England," once famous for its fine broadcloths and other woolens, has declined in competition with the worsteds of Yorkshire. Stroud, however, has still the reputation of using the finest wools in the world. Kidderminster is the most important car- pet center and Leicester and parts of Nottingham and Derby are important in the production of hosiery. REPOBT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K, 243 Within recent years the increasing difficulty of finding a foreign market for specialized goods has led to a greater diversity of products in certain centers, so that, while a center is chiefly noted for one type of goods, it also makes others. It should also be noted in this connection that the term ''Colne Valley" designates not only a locality but a type of goods. Colne Valley goods, i. e., cheap woolens, are made chiefly in the Colne Valley, but they may be made in a so- called Colne Valley mill located elsewhere in the United Kingdom. The distribution of the woolen, worsted, shoddy (wool), and hosiery industries in the United Kingdom is shown by persons employed in each locaHty in Table 220. Table 220. — Persons employed in 1907 in wool and hosiery industries in the United Kingdom. Locality. North London South London West London East London Northampton Norwich Ipswich Bristol Southampton Plymouth Swansea Cardiff Dublin Cork Birmingham Worcester Wolverhampton Walsall Stoke Leicester Nottingham , Dwby Wrexham Leeds HuU Wool. 21 90 1,071 250 6,838 144 1,248 1,020 92 1,588 1,431 1,065 7,848 490 14 71 2,804 335 633 823 21,053 23 Hosiery. 13 3 54 33 171 2 130 337 143 346 108 448 15 18,979 7,377 3,786 77 238 Locality. Sheffield Huddersfield Halilax Bradford Newcastle Stockton Manchester Oldham Rochdale '. . . Bolton Stockport Liverpool Blackbura Preston Glasgow Kilmarnock Edinburgh Dundee Aberdeen Inverness Belfast Londonderry United Kingdom Wool. 907 57,007 24,546 85,770 99 521 1,040 2,505 7,674 53 393 91 3 1,594 6,046 4,681 11.464 4,704 1,455 537 631 453 Hosiery. 5 116 57 358 32 208 564 46 8 39 169 1,912 1,500 1,918 45 5.52 19 100 261,192 39,791 Organization of the woolen and worsted industry in the United King- dom. — Statistics show that the average number of spindles and looms per factory is higher in the worsted than in the woolen industry. Assuming that there are spindles ai^d looms in every factory (an assumption which is not warranted, especially in the worsted industry) there were on the average 1,898 spindles and 37 looms in each woolen factory, and on the average 3,493 spindles and 63 looms in each worsted factory in the United Kingdom in 1904. The larger size of the worsted-producing unit as shown by these figures is further accentuated by the fact that the worsted industry is much more specialized than the woolen industry and therefore many of the fac- tories used in making the above averages had neither looms nor spindles (i. e. were combing mills), or had looms or spindles only; all 01 which could tend to make the average number of worsted spmdles running in one place still greater. At the basis of worsted specialization is the wool comber, who either combs on the commission or makes tops for sale. The so-called top maker in the United Kingdom is not a manufacturer but a merchant who buys raw wool, has it combed on commission, and i } 244 REPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. sells in the form of top. The demand for a great variety of yarns and fabrics has led also to specialization in worsted spinning and weaving. The weavers have found it impossible to spin all the varying kinds of yarns required in their fabrics and have found it convenient and profitable to buy from those spinners who make the particular yam needed. The absence of specialization in the woolen industry is in part due to the nature of the raw material used. The blenoing of shoddy, noils, wool, etc., is the most important operation in making cheap fabrics and the manufacturer can not afford to entrust tliis to one outside his mill. Persons employed. — ^The number of persons employed in the woolen, worsted, and shoddy factoiies of the United Kingdom in 1895 was 282,401; in 1897, 265,744; in 1901, 259,909; and in 1907, 261,192. The persons employed in these factories in 1907 are given in Table 221 by age, and process in which they were employed. Table 221.- Xumber of operatives in wool and worsted (including shoddy) factories of the United Kingdom in 1907. Process. Sorting, combing, etc Spinning.. Weaving Otber processes Total Half- timers. Full-timers. Under 18 years. 18 years and above. Total. 3 7,G23 439 51 848 31.350 17,092 4,075 13.484 59,591 102,569 24, 167 14,335 98,464 120,100 28,293 8,118 53,265 199,811 261,192 Table 221 shows that 8,116 persons were employed at half time and that 253,076 persons were employed full time; of the latter, 53,265 were under 18 vears of age and 199,811 were 18 years of age and above. The table also shows that 14,335 persons were em- ployed in sorting, carding, combing, and other preparatory processes; that 98,464 were employed in spinning; and that 120,100 were em- ploved in weaving. Mechanical equipment of mill in United Kingdom. — In the woolen, worsted, and shoddy industries of the United Kingdom in 1904 there were 2,780,565 mule spindles and 2,844,912 worsted spindles. One milhon six hundred and two thousand two hundred and fifteen of the former and 2,614,727 of the latter were in Yorksliire. Nine hundred rag-grinding machines were reported, 881 of wliich were in Yorkshire. There were 104,514 power looms in the United Kingdom and 69.09 per cent of these had a reed space of 60 iaches or over. (The reed space is an index of the width of the fabric produced.) The mechanical equipment and persons employed in the woolen, worsted, and shoddy mills of the United Kingdom for 1867, 1874, 1885, 1889, and 1904 are shown in Table 222. KEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 245 Table 222.- ■ Mechanical equipment and persons employed in the woolen, worsted, and shoddy industries in the United Kingdom. 1867 Factories Rag-grinding machines Woolen carding sets Worsted combing machines. Spinning spindles: Mule Other Doubling spindles 2,649 1,038 }6. 455, 879 519,629 Power looms: Up to 40 inches reed space Over 40 and under 60 inches. . CO inches reed space and over. Total power looms Total number of persons employed. 118,875 262,283 1S74 2,617 1,27C 5,449,495 558,914 140,274 280,133 1885 2,751 5,375,102 769,492 139,902 282,255 1889 2,517 1904 2,382 900 6.700 2,924 5,604,535 / 2,780,565 969.812 131,506 301,556 844,912 1,059,049 9,456 22,843 72,216 104,514 261, 192 Output of woolen and worsted factories in the United Kingdom. — The output of the woolen and worsted factoiies of the United Kingdom as reported by their census of 1907 is presented in Table 223. These figures are reputed to be free from duplications. The partially manu- facttired products reported are those made chiefly for export, although some of tnem may have been used in mills other than those in which they were made, for producing more finished products. The yarns are exclusive of those made in mills for use therein. The figures for finished products may be taken at their face value: Table 223. — Output of the woolen and worsted factories in the United Kingdom in 1007. Wool, sorted, blended, et«.: Sheep or lamb's wool Other sorts Woolen rags, carbonized, dved, etc. Tops * Noils Flocks Waste Shoddy, mungo, etc Yams (all wool or mixed with other materials): Woolen (carded) Worsted (combed or carded) Alpaca and mohair Other hair or wool Woolen tissues (all wool or mixed with otlier materials, including mixtures of woolen and worsted yarns): Broad Narrow Worsted tissues (all wool or mixed with other materials): Worsted coatings and trouserings of all kinds- Broad Narr o w ; Worsted stuffs, dress goods, linings, lastings, etc Damasks, tapestry, and other furniture stuffs Wool and mohair plushes Flannels and dclames Carpets (not being rugs) Rugs other than traveling rugs: Returned in square yards Returned by number 1 .!...! i 1 !! T. !!!".!!!.!!] ! Blankets. Shawls Coverlets, traveling rugs, or wrappers .........'.'.'.'..... Wool and mohair braids, laces, and other small wares. Manufactures of wool and worsted, unenumerated All other products Grand total. Quantity. Pounds. 29,602,000 8,352,000 51,192,000 188,769,000 31,589,000 26,947,000 33,988,000 137,056,000 62,225,000 159,940,000 20,316,000 10,942,000 Yards. 143,246,000 40,350,000 51,104,000 7,435,000 142,852,000 2,608,000 3,077,000 49,749,000 26,159,000 3,859,000 178,000 Pairs. 3,115,000 Number. 1,290,000 828,000 Value. $1,883,336 1,270,157 2,034,197 13,115,218 2,958,832 691,043 3,207,024 8,749,967 11,747,731 78,146,257 11,494,673 1,975,799 71,819,807 8,516,375 40,732,605 3,523,346 32,235,686 1,202,026 1,005,945 8,530,975 16,239,511 2,949,099 199,527 7,056,425 1,104.696 1,148,494 520,716 3,839,669 3,766,671 342,265,812 246 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD OH SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTJUE K. 247 Exports from ihe United Kingdom , 1910. — ^The year 1910 was the most prosperous year the woolen and worsted industries of the United Kingdom have ever had. Due to the fact that these industries depend so largely on foreign markets, the exports of woolen and worsted goods are a good index of their prosperity. Before 1910, the record year for exports of all kinds of woolen and worsted manufac- tures and partially manufactured products was 1872. In that year the industries of France and Geraiany had not fully recovered from the effects of the Franco-Prussian War and the industries of the United Kingdom found little competition in the markets of the world. The total value of the exports from the United Kingdom in 1872 of man- ufactured and partially manufactured woolen and worsted products was $195,093,070. This figure was passed in 1910 for the first time, in which year the total value of the exports of manufactured and par- tially manufactured products was $207,583,531. WOOL MANUFACTURES IN GERMANY. Disiribution. — ^Practically every Kingdom, Duchy, and Principality in the German Empire contains persons employed in the wool indus- tries. There are no outstanding centers tnat compare with Brad- ford in England and Roubaix m France. There are commission combing mills at Blumenthal near Bremen, Hamburg, Leipzig, Dohren near Hanover, and Mylau. Important worsted spinning mills are located at Leipzig, Zwichau, Plauen, and Mulilhausen in Alsace. In the small Principahties of Reuss, with their capitals at Gera and Greiz, there were in 1907, 16,802 persons employed in the woolen and worsted industries. They produce chiefly dress goods of the Bradford type. In 1907 the Rhine Province of Prussia employed 38,354 persons in the woolen and worsted industries. Aachen is the chief city and is primarily noted for its woolens, but also makes worsteds. The Province of Brandenburg in 1907 reported 36,924 persons employed in this industrv and Silesia employed 11,583 persons. The woolen industry predominates in this section although worsted yams are spun at Liegnitz and Breslau. The town of Forst is the largest carded- wool center in Germany. The number of persons employed in the woolen and worsted industries in Bavaria in 1907 was 10,184, in Saxony 52,359, and in Alsace 19,905. It fol- lows from what has been said that the woolen and worsted industries of Germany are widely scattered. The distribution of the industry is shown in detail in Table 224. Table 224.— Establishments and persons employed in wool preparing, spinning, wear- ing, dyeing, and finishing in 1907, in the German Empire, by States and subdivisions. German Empire Kingdom of Prussia Province of East Prussia Province of West Prussia City of Berlin Province of Brandenburg Province of Pomerania Province of Posen Province of Silesia Province of Saxony Province of Schleswig-Holstein Province of Hanover Province of Westphalia Province of Hessen-Nassau Province of Rhineland Holienzollem Kingdom of Bavaria North Bavaria South Bavaria Eheinpfalz Kingdom of Saxony Kingdom of Wurttemburg Grand Duchy of Baden Grand Duchy of Ilessen Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. . . Grand Duchy of Saxony Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg-Strelitz Grand Duchy of Oldenburg Duchy of Brunswick Duchy of Saxe-Meiningen Duchy of Sax©- A 1 ten burg Duchy of Saxe-Coburg-Ootha Duchy of Anhalt Principality of Schwarsburg-Sondershau- sen Principality of Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt.. Principality of Waldeck Principality of Reuss (elder line) Principality of Reuss (younger line) Principality of Schaumburg-Lippe Principality of Lippe Hansstown of Lu beck Hansstown of Bremen Hansstown of Hamburg Crown-land of Alsace-Lorraine Total number of estab- lish- ments. 15,925 6,538 72 27 218 1,560 168 20 1,038 1,173 255 215 115 163 1,510 4 1,178 1,019 99 60 5,072 176 75 73 83 609 24 15 15 88 110 8 3 3 4 3 218 109 1 15 7 4 15 1,479 Of these there are- Main establish' ments. 14,545 6,156 72 25 215 1,544 159 18 1,010 1,005 234 186 107 138 1,441 2 1,094 937 97 60 4,625 162 66 49 79 479 22 13 15 82 104 8 3 3 3 3 211 103 1 10 6 4 15 1,229 Subsidi- ary establish- ments. 1,380 382 2 3 16 9 2 28 168 21 29 8 25 69 2 84 82 2 447 14 9 24 4 130 2 2 Number of main establish- ments classed according to number of persons em- ployed. Employing— 1. 6,647 2,360 48 9 99 305 79 7 386 568 69 63 45 28 653 1 156 131 24 1 2.620 33 18 17 19 249 13 1 7 6 21 6 81 3 i 2 7 90 6 48 1 5 4 1 3 1 1 250 899 From 2 to 50. 6,856 Over SO. 3,246 23 16 110 l,04i 80 11 568 415 150 108 53 93 574 1 902 791 64 47 1,774 111 36 28 60 13 2C2 1,043 550 1 6 195 S6 23 15 IS 9 17 214 36 15 9 12 231 18 12 4 214 9 8 6 42 16 5 2 16 4 S 19 8 1 3 2 1 76 29 1 45 26 6 3 3 Hff'i 248 KEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD OK SCHEDULE K. Table 224. — Establishments and persons employed in wool preparing, spinning, weath ing, dyeing, and Jluishing in 1907, in the German Empire, by Stales and subdivi- sions — Continued. Persons employed inside eatablisliments (including mana* gers). German Empire Kingdom of Prussia Province of East Prussia Province of West Prussia City of Berlin Province of Brandenburg Province of Pomerania. Province of Posen Province of Silesia Province of Saxony Province of Schlc^wig-IIolstein Province of Hanover Province of Westj)haHa Province of Hessen-Nassau Province of Rhineland Hoheiuoliem Kingdom of Bavaria North Bavaria South Bavaria Rheinpfalz Kingdom of Saxony Kingdom of Wurttemburg Grand Duchy of Baden Grand Duchy of Hessen Grand Duchy of Mecklcnburg-Schwerin . , Grand Dvichy of Saxony Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg-Strelitz . . . Grand Duchy of Oldenburg Duchy of Brunswick Duchy of Saxe-Meiningen Duchy of Saxe-Altenburg Duchy of Saxe-Coburg-Grotha Duchjr of Anhalt Principality of Schwarsburg-Sondershau sen Principality of Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt. . Principality of Waldeck Principality of Reuse (elder line) , Principality of Reuss (younger lino) Principality of Schaumburg-Lippe Principality of lapiw Haosstown of Luoeck Hansstown of Bremen Hansstown of Hamburg Crown-land of Alsace-Lorraine On June 12, 1907. Total. Women. 228,130 110,170 269 77 1,834 36,d24 649 59 11,583 G,161 3,448 6,490 1,617 38.354 3 10,184 4,732 2,246 2,206 52,359 4.232 1,960 581 264 3,613 68 2.091 262 3.281 1,395 66 212 2C 185 4 8.452 8,350 1 16 8 7 109,724 50,950 179 38 756 17,853 220 41 7,134 3,440 1,486 2.365 477 1.002 15,958 1 4.798 2,188 1,043 1,567 27,934 2.074 1,097 201 59 1,603 27 918 159 1.576 845 46 134 4 86 Married women. 32,037 Workers under 16 years. 15,794 3.960 4.063 13,318 5 9 126 7,102 32 2.245 787 478 568 56 50 1,860 1.179 257 575 347 8,391 394 192 26 23 314 1 322 81 656 401 22 49 12 1,885 2,209 3 I 1 SOS 8 0Q41 114 2,448 7,411 6 2 37 1,705 14 1 532 707 111 379 129 293 3,610 Highest number of employed persons. 233,442 953 266 202 485 3.306 580 269 64 5 239 145 25 3,54 35 2 13 35 SOO 213 47 1,797 112,492 289 77 1,893 37,262 720 59 11,896 6,360 3,526 0,577 1,660 2,735 39,435 3 10,474 4,8.57 2,342 3,275 53,449 4.243 1,963 509 260 3,637 76 2,094 278 3,284 1,565 70 212 22 185 4 8,884 9,108 1 16 8 7 449 20,053 Organisation of the industry in Germany. — One of the features of the German %\ool industry which distinguishes it from the industry in the United Kingdom is the household production. There are still in Germany thousands of persons employed chiefly in weaving in their homes. These w^eavers are scattered widely over the Empire, but are concentrated in western Saxony near the twin towns of Glauchau and Meerane, in and near Solingen north of Cologne, and in northern Bavaria. This household industry is declining in competition with the factory organization. In 1 882 there were 23,603 persons employed in weaving in their homes; in 1895, 27,790 persons; and in 1907, 13,724. But even with this decline the household inciustry is a factor in production that must be reckoned with. In addition to the weaving there were in 1907, 224 persons employed in the wool prepa- KEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. 249 ratory processes in their homes, 584 in spinning, and 850 in finishing. In this connection the number of hand looms is pertinent. In 1907 the number of looms actually reported as propelled by hand in Ger- many was 15,990, including 381 nbbon looms. The number of power looms reported was 45,819, including 206 ribhon looms. At the same time 34,779 looms were reported without designation of the motive power. Of the looms for which the motive power is actually reported the hand looms are approximately equal to one-fourth of the number, and if we assume that the undesignated looms are in the same pro- portion it is evident that the hand-loom production in Germany ia still of some importance. It should not be inferred from what has been said that the household industry and the hand-loom industry are coextensive. Until a few years ago the looms in the homes were, generally speaking, hand looms, but with the improvements in the transmission of electric power through the country an increasing num- ber of these looms are being converted into power looms, yet still remain a part of the household industry. Both the number of hand looms and the number of household establishments, however, have tended to decline. The larger establishments in Germany have tended to increase; in 1882 there w^ere 666 establishments employing more than 50 persons; in 1895, 975 establishments; and in 1907, 1,081. The average num- ber of persons employed in one place in establishments having over 50 employees was in 1882, 138 persons; in 1895, 168 persons; and in 1907, 158 persons. Table 225 presents in detail tlie extent and organization of the woolen and worsted industry in Germany. It was compiled from official sources by the '^Handworterbuch der Staatswissenschaften '' : Table 225. — Number of cstahlishments, persons employed, and motor power used in wool preparing, spinning, weaving {including carpets), arul finishing in the German Empire in 1882, 1895, and 1907. Establishments for— Wool preparing: 1882 1895 1907 Wool spinning: 1882 1895 1907 Wool weaving: » 1882 1895 ^ 1907 Wool dyeing, print- ing, and finishing: 1882 1805 1907 Total: 1882 1895 1907 J) •-> a 3.2 o H o 11 gS 3 « B R 1.354 9G9 873 5,859 2,611 1,270 28.201 26,035 12, 701 2,678 1,789 1,705 .38, 092 31.404 16,549 1,025 a34 787 5.181 2.320 1,193 5,798 16,358 21,612 47. 347 54.448 58,498 26.026 108,007 23.756 i 153, 098 11,566 132,487 2,424 1,053 1,585 20,611 22,731 25,251 34,656 181,763 28,569 246,635 15.131 ,237,848 a o • 21 40 60 164 185 212 3 0) Ol 3.226 11,846 15,458 28.670 42.468 46,361 406 51.294 605 97, 668 669 95, 620 75 85 120 666 975 1,081 8.734 11,880 13,746 5-3 •C ea g O 0) .=,.3 ^ 3 V R 0^ 196 105 220 1,915 705 209 19.122 19,755 9,648 288 245 512 91,924 , 21,521 163,862 1 20,810 171,185 10,589 119 204 224 1.990 931 584 23, C03 27,790 13,724 461 891 860 26, 173 29,816 15, 382 CO jS> 3S O 03 ^ ♦i bo 2^ • fc42fe III 176 382 902 879 1.507 1,584 827 866 e o W 9.701 ! 25,288 1,386 61, 703 86,515 2,639 6.3.746 78,776 * 4,184 16.873 27,071 2,868 3.412 152,023 3,711 217,650 9,691 1 Carpet manufacturing included. 250 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOJlRD OK SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 251 Persons employed. — In 1907 the number of persons employed in the German Empire in the preparatory processes of wool manufacture, such as sortmg, combing, etc., was 21,612; in spinning, 58,498; in weaving, 132,487 (including 9,718 persons engaged in carpet weaving) ; and in finisliing processes, 25,251. Tliis makes 237,848 persona employed in wool manufactures in Germany, excluding 103,996 engaged in producing hosiery and knit goods from cotton, wool, and other textile fiber, and 7,298 engaged in the production of all kinds of felts, including toys. This number (237,848) is a decrease of 3.56 per cent from the number of employees reported in 1895, but an in- crease of 30.86 per cent over the number reported in 1882. Mechanical power and equipment — ^Tlie number of wool-working establishments, including carpets but excluding the knit and felt industries, employing motor power in the German Empire in 1907 was 3,711. Tne power employed amounted to 217,650 horsepower and 9,691 electric kilowatts, 'the mechanical equipment of the wool- working industries, including carpets but excluding knit and felt industries, in the German Empire is presented in Table 226. All figures, except those for woolen spindles, are from the "Hand- worterbuch der Staatswissenschaften.^' Table 226. — Mechanwal equipment of the wool-worhing milh of the German Empire in 1907. Name of machine. Wool preparing: Cards Combing machines Bcouriiig machines Carbomzing machines Spinning: Woolen producing spindles Worsted producing spindles Woolen twisting spindles Worsted twisting spindles Weaving: Jacquard hand looms Jacqiiard power looms Jacquard looms without special designation Hand looms without Jacquard attachment Power looms without Jacquard attachment Looms without motive power d«vsignated and without Jacquard attachments. Hand looms without further dtisi^nation Power looms without further designation Hand ribbon looms Power ribbon looms Ribbon looms without further designatioa -• Carpet manufacture: Jacquard looms Looms without Jacquard attachment Hand looms without furthft designation. Wool dyeing, printing, and fimslung : • Fulling machines Cylinder printing machines Cloth washing machines Hydrcxxtracting maciiinfis Dyeing apparatus Teasling or napping macliines Drying machines Shearing machines Presses. gteam finishing machines. Number. 2,119 378 107 1,956.. 342 2,263,364 23,0.36 555,705 486 2,379 6,984 15,0;^2 42.972 27,635 91 262 381 206 lOO 778 4;oii 48 2,306 267 1,894 926 1.816 1,831 246 1,713 1,297 423 1 The " Handwdrterbuch " report 1,721. If by a card is meant tlie same as Is meant in the United States tbis figure would seem to be too low. Table 226 shows several significant things. In the first place, it shows that the worsted industry in Germany has passed the woolen industry in size. There were in 1907, 2,263,364 worsted producing spindles as agamst 1,956,342 woolen spindles. The 2,119 combs also indicates the strength of the worsted mdustry. This means, among other things, that Germany will soon cease to be>the chief market for French and English tops and yams. She will tend more and more to import raw wool which her industry wiQ work up into tops and yarns instead of importing wool in partially manufactured form. Secondly, the table snows approximately the extent of the hand as against the power loom in the industry. In 1907 there were in addition to 4,837 carpet looms, 34,779 looms for which the motive power was not specified, 45,819 power looms, and 15,990 hand looms. If we assume that the unspecified looms are divided between hand and power in the same proportion as the specified looms, there are about three times as many power looms as nand looms in Germany. Wool scouring and carhonizing in Germany. — There were in 1907, 34 wool scouring and carbonizing establishments in Germany. Thirty-one of these filled out schedules on production and the remain- ing three were so small that it was said they might be disregarded. The 31 establishments scoured or carbonized 55,219,520 pounds of wool and carbonized 7,182,510 jpounds of noils and waste. They turned out 23,736,487 pounds of scoured wool, of which 14,943,947 pounds were merino wool and 8,792,555 were crossbred wool. They also turned out 2,107,075 pounds of carbonized wool and 5,041,283 pounds of carbonized noils. The difference between these figures of production and those given above shows the loss in scouring or carbonizing. \ Wool combing in Germany, — Forty combing estabhshments were reported in Qermany in 1907. These estabhshments consumed 310,959,284 pounds of wool, 65.5 per cent of which was merino wool and 34.5 per cent of which was crossbred wool. From this wool 136,771,863 pounds of tops were produced, of which 56.4 per cent were merino tops and 43.6 per cent crossbred tops. The quantity of noils was 16,165,415 pounds, and other wastes 12,761,947 pounds. = Worsted yam production in Germany. — In 1907 there were 107 worsted spinning and twisting establishments. The following figures are for 105 estabhshments, the two wliich are omitted beinginsignifi- cant. These mills contained 2,263,364 spinning spindles. They con- sumed 156,364,780 pounds of tops, 52.1 per cent oi which were merino tops and 47.9 per cent crossbred tops. From this was produced 146,583,184 pounds of single-ply yarn. The loss in yarn waste was 8,426,438 pounds; 84,275,846 pounds of this one-ply yarn was twisted and it produced 83,380,113 pounds of twisted yarn, as follows: Pounds. 2-ply twist 41,967,969 3-ply twist 4,396,874 4 or more ply twist 28, 010, 305 Unspecified twist 9, 004, 965 Finally, the total value of worsted yam, one-ply, twisted, bleached, unbleached, dyed, etc., produced was $97,774,432. 252 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAM) ON SCHEDUI-E K. Production of carded woolen yam in Germany.— The q^uantity of materials worked up for their own use in carded woolen spinning and weaving establishments making woolen and half-woolen fabncs in 1907 was as follows: ^^^^^^ Sheep's wool in scoured condition 61. 012, 395 Noils and wool wastes 20, 405, zm l^ttfc:;:::::::::::::::::::::::;::::::::::::::::::::^^ a'lP^fo Other spiimable materials 2, 088, 362 Total 207,176,105 The amount of carded woolen yarn made from the above materials for use in the mills where spun was 199,661,557 pounds and was valued (including twisting^ dyeing, etc.) at $54,492,458. These same mills also made 24,230,313 pounds of carded woolen yarn on commis- sion for outside mills. , , , , , i . Shoddy produced in Germany.— The amount of shoddy produced m the cardecf woolen spinning mills of Germany in 1907 was 67,115,939 pounds. In addition, mills producing only shoddy gro.und up on theu- own account in 1907 83,146,635 pounds of rags, etc., into 55,959,613 pounds of shoddy, valued at $4,760,575. These mills also made 8,779,328 pounds of shoddy on commission for outside mills. , Production of carded woolm fabrics in Gerirmny.— The weaving estab- lishments producing woolen and half-woolen fabrics m Germany in 1907 used 143,731,263 pounds of carded woolen yarn produced m the same estabhshments and 137,119,504 pounds of textile hber received from elsewhere. From tiiis matenal were produced 249,- 902,475 pounds of men's, women's, and children's fabrics (including linings), valued at $184,333,068. In addition, these weaving estab- lishments produced on commission 20,424,071 pounds of mens, women's, and children's fabrics, including Mnings. WOOL MANUFACTUEES IX FRANCE. Distrihution.— The Department of the North, which borders on Belgium, is by far the most important wool-manufacturmg center in France. This Department has almost a complete monopoly of combing. In 1906 it employed 87 per cent of the persons employed in wool combmg in France and 73 per cent of the persons employed in France in spinning worsted yarn. It emplojred 51 per cent of the persons employed in weavmg wool fabrics in France. It is also rep- resented in other operations of manufacture. The chief centers m the Department are the adjoining towTis of Koubaix and Tourcomg. Fourmies in the same Department and Rheims m the Department of Mame do some combing, but they are declming m competition with Roubak. There are wool-working miUs scattered over the Depart- ments of Aisne and Ardennes. The town of Elboeuf m Normandy compares with Leeds in England ; it does a miscellaneous business in both woolens and worsteds. Vienne on the Rhone is the center of shoddy cloth, and the Department of the Rhone employs 48 per cent of the persons engaged in the manufacture of blankets. Mazamet m the Department of Tarn is the center of wool pulling. Ihe Depart- ment of Somme leads in the production of velvets of wool and cotton, and the Department of Aisne has a monopoly of makmg plushes. BEPOET OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 253 The number of persons employed, the number of establishments, and the distribution of each suodivision of avooI manufactures in France is presented in Table 227 : Table 227. — Summary of wool manufactures in France. Total persons employed. Number of es- tablish- A p p r tion- ment of e s t a b I ish- • Industry. 1906 1901 1896 ments in which over 6 persons are cm- ployed. ments ac- cording to number of olGcials and wage earn- ers in 1906. Principal departments of production— Per cent for each depart- ment indicated of total number em- ployed in the jndu&* try in France. 1901 44 39 115 54 23 172 16 101 40 202 21 283 65 18 1 4 6 44 63 40 1896 6 to 50 51 to 500 15 4 8 16 6 49 7 90 12 100 13 95 43 12 1 Over 500 1 9 5 1 10 1 9 15 1 .... - - WOOL. Wool pulling 2,200 1,000 3,000 2,500 1,300 9,900 10,600 ir.,eoo 2,500 39,400 2,800 27,700 28,000 3,900 100 050 200 4,400 7,500 7,100 1,750 1,050 2,000 2,200 1,450 8,600 10,300 15.900 2,000 42,400 2,000 26,000 25,800 4,000 400 750 200 4,500 7,100 7,000 1,150 800 650 1,450 5,000 7,150 11,100 17,()00 1,300 48,500 1,400 29,900 36,300 2,600 1,000 600 1,050 5,100 6,100 5,500 36 26 17 28 104 125 21 128 22 281 24 325 142 20 2 3 24 05 64 37 29 35 107 38 17 122 "b 27 92 7 179 7 5 5 17 29 24 Tarn (95). Scouring, burr picking, car- bonizing, and washing of wool. Beating, breaking, and sorting of wool. Manufacture of felt and felt cloth. Spinning of wool and spinning of waste of wool. Carding of wool and spinning of carded wool. Combing of wool Spinning of combed wool W inding and twisting of wool. . Wool weaving and manufac- turing of woolen fabrics, etc. Manufacture of elastic fabrics. . Manufacture of cloth: fulling and burling, etc., of cloth. Manufacture of woolen goods, fancy wool fabrics, and cloth. Manufacture of velvets, of cot- ton or wool. Manufacture of plushes Shearing of velvet and plushes. Bouches - du - Rhone (30), Nord (25). Nord (33), Seine - In- fgrieure (18), Tam (18), Mame (9). Charente (28), Mame (9), Ardennes (12). Nord (25). Nord (24), Ardennes (19). Nord (87), Mame (13). Nord (73). Nord (64), Seine (24). Nord (51), Marne (19), Aisne (13). Seine-Inf6rieure (59), Loire (20). Seine-Inf6rieure (25), Isere (14), lam (11), Ardennes (8). Nord (100). Somme (76), Nord (15). Aisne (100). Sonmie (88), Rhone (9). Manufacture of cashinere and shawls. Manufacture of blankets Manufacture of carpet and darning of carpets. Manufacture of upholstering fabric. 1 27 32 21 2 1 Eure (50), Aisne (30), Nord (20). Rhone (48), Loiret (18), Nord (18). Creuse (36), Nord (31), Oise (17). Nord (85). Organization. — The combing business in France resembles that of England in organization. It is a distinct industry and as a rule does combing on commission for merchants or spinners. Spinning and weaving are also specialized. The French industry is predominantly worsted; its chief supremacy is in making soft dress goods from mule-spun yarns. Tnis is the chief technical distinction between the English and French industries. The former excels in producing goods from hard spun yarns which have been drawn and spun on the frame system; the latter excels in the production of soft goods made from the full, sc^f t yarns drawn and spun by the French system. The rural hand loom holds a very important place in the French industry. Accurate statistics of recent date as to number of hand and power looms are not available, but in 1887 there were 44,682 power looms 254 BEPOKT OF TAKIFi^' BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K* BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 255 ill I '■■■If I **l||l" and 25,399 hand looms in France. While it is certain that the num- ber of hand looms has declined since 1887, it is safe to say that there are still between 15,000 and 20,000 in the country. These looms are closely connected with France's supremacy in the production of novelties and artistic fabrics of wool. The constant change in fashion to which large mills witli difficulty adjust themselves are met by the adaptability and skill of tlie hand weaver. They find time to give character and individuality to theu* work. In some parts of France the looms in the homes are now run by electric power. As electric power is transmitted through the country this improvement will be adopted in the homes more and more, so that a decline in hand looms, which will probably be rapid, does not necessarily mean a decline in the household industry. The household weavers are organized by a middle man, called in French " contremaitre pour tissage h domicile.'' He takes orders from some large domestic or foreign firm for a particular fabric, and then bargains with tlie home weavers for the product. He furnishes the yam and sometimes the Jacquard' harness. Nine hundred and eighty-five persons were reported by the French census of 1906 as having the occupation of ^' contremaitre pour tissage k domicile." Household weavers have been driven almost entirely from the lai^c centers of production, but are still found in considerable numbere m the villages near Cambrai, Le Cateau, St. Quentin, and in various parts of the Departments of the North, Aisne, and Somme. Persons employed and mechanical eqaifment — In 1906 the French census reported a little over 171,000 persons employed in that country in wool manufactures. Ten thousand six hundred of these were employed in combing wool, 16,600 in spinning worsted yam, 39,400 ir j weaving wool fabrics, and the others are variously distributed amonj^^' the different departments of the industry as indicated above in" Table 205. There were in 1910 approximatelv 2,000 combs in opera^ tion in France. Her producing worsted spindles numbered 1 ,997,186, and twisting worsted spindles 368,412. The carded woolen industry, pow hand looms one-third as many. Production in France. — Statistics relating to production in Franco are meager, but some figures may be given which indicate the outputJ The RoubaLx consular district, which includes Roubaix, Tourcomg,' Le Cateau, and Fourmies, has a practical monopoly in the produc-, tion of tops or combed wool. It is the custom in France to send the tops produced to the conditioning houses before they are turned over by the commission comber to the spinner, m order to determine the l^al weight (see p. 105). The amount of tops, therefore, passmg through the conditioning houses of the Roubaix district is a good index of the amount produced. The United States consul reports that in 1910, 132,701 ,032 pounds were conditioned in the district of Roubaix. M. G. Seydoux of Paris estimates the production of worsted vara in France in 1910 at 110,075,000 pounds, valued at $65,455,000; and of woolen yam, 82,117,000 pounds, valued at $29,975,000.^ I These statistics are published in the "Rapport de la Commission Permanente des Valeurs de Douane" (acflsioii de 1911). The section of this report wlatiug to wool (pp. 332-«>t)) is the most valuable existing surrey of the industry in France. SUMMARY OF WOOL MANUFACTURES. Belaium, Italy , Aiistria, Ritssia, and Japan. — Ranking next only to the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, and France in wool manufactures, are Belgium, Italy, Austria-Hungary, and Rus- sia. In comparison with the former group, this group, it is true, is of minor importance, but it is nevertheless worthy of consideration. Belgium is located so that she does work for the United Kingdom, Germany, and France. She furnishes England with a large quantity of woolen yarn annually and much of the wool used by the industries of the continent is scoured in her large scouring plants in order to save freight. The most important city is Verviers. The industry in Italy is located in the north where there is an abundance of water power, used either direct or to make electricity. Her labor supply is good and, while her products are not a serious competitor in neutral markets as yet, they will become increasingly important. Austria- Hungary's statistics are not recent. In 1890 her industry was said to have 429,475 woolen spindles and 276,239 worsted spindles. Her imports are a better index of her production. In 1910 she imported 60,019,353 pounds of raw wool, 24,002,362 pounds of tops, 1,939,607 pounds of woolen yam, and 15,073,512 pounds of worsted yam. Lodz, in Poland, and Moscow are the most important wool manufac- turing centers in Russia. Russia's industry consumes a part of the merino wool which she produces and a considerable quantity of wool which she imports (94,975,797 pounds in 1909). She also works up 'some of her coarse, native wools, especially the Bokhara wool, into blankets and army and peasant cloths. Within recent years wool manufacturers in Japan nave shared in the industrial expansion of that country. She has no raw wool supply of her own, but Japanese [are buying extensively at the Austrahan sales. Her chief product is mousseline de laine, a light dress goods which is either left plain or Jrinted with oriental designs. The output of wool manufactures in apan in 1909 was as follows: HMousseline de laine (37,806,745 yards) $5, 034, 774 Flannel (77,603 pieces) 193, 965 Wool serge 347, 203 Wool blankets 515, 868 Rugs and shawls (247,350 pieces) 190, 257 Wool cloth 902,000 Total 7, 184, 067 Comparison of leading manufacturing countries. — Any comparison ^of products of wool manufactures in the United States, United King- dom, Germany, and France, would be misleading because of the |variety of products, the years for which output is reported, and the variations m classification. Nor are production statistics for foreign countries extensive enough to warrant comparison with our own. This is true, however, in only a limited way of the mechanical equip- ment of the mills. Machinery in the mills does not change so quickly, so that comparisons made between different years for different countries are still approximately right. Table 228 presents the mechanical equipment and persons employed in the woolen and worsted mills of leading countries. 256 BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 257 Table 22S. —Prodwthe equiprnent of woolen and worsted mills in leading producing countries. Items. United States (1909).! Nnmber of establlshmenta . Sets of cards Combing machines Spinning spindles: Woolen Worsted Twisting spindles Looms Horsepower employed Persons em^oyed fill C,061 1,978 1.785,205 1,655,400 723,704 72,185 848,283 163,431 United Kingdom (1904). 2.218 6,381 2,924 2,707,147 2,844,412 1,066,529 103,082 Oermany (1907). • 261, 192 • 15,925 1,721 2,119 1.956,342 2,263,364 578, 741 « 95, 841 214.856 228,130 France (1906 and 1909). > 1,357 ■"2,666 684,619 1,997,186 396,198 6 55,000 Belgium (1909). 274,210 288,878 93,592 171.350 1 Macbinery for L^nlted States does not Include a few cotton machines in woolen and worsted mills. « Includes household establlshmenta. ; &S!^X^^^^^^^ the number, but doe. not include 747 ribbon loom. "^^^D^ no\*^indude hand looms, which are approximately one-third as numerous as power looms. • Includes several thousand persons employed in shoddy industry. Table 228 presents one problem which can only be stated here. Those wishing an answer to it must consult the part of the Tariff Board report which deals with efficiency. The work done by one comb, one spmdie, one loom, or one person m one country is not necessarily equivalent to the work done by a machme of hke name or a person in another country. The speed of a spmdie may be f eater in the United States than in Germany ; the looms of the U mted Lngdom may run more picks to the minute or have on the average a wKler reed space than the looms in France ; the production turned out by a man or woman in an American mill may be greater for a flven time than by a man or woman abroad. These facts must be ept in mind in studying this table. The table shows m general, however, that the United Kingdom has the greatest productive capacity; that the French industry is predominantly worsted; and that Germany now ranks well up among the woolen and worsted- producing countries. It also shows that the mdustry in the United States is ahnost as large as the industry in Germany and the Umted Kingdom. /• 7 mi. .c i Commerce of the world in wool and manufactures oj wool, — Ine Una! table of this report presents the imports and exports of raw wool, reworked wool, tops, yarns, and manufactures of wool for practically all the countries of tbe world that pubhsh import and export sta- tistics. A careful study of this table wiU reveal the source and des- tination of all the wool and wool products which enter mto the com- merce of the world. It shows the great exportmg and great import- ing nations, and in general the distribution of wool products to the various countries. These facts are presented in Table 229. OS o o •D » IS i e 8 :§ o g m 32080°— H. Doc. 342, G2-2, vol 1- -17 i WO' BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD 02f SCHEDULE K. EEPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD 02^ SCHEDULE K. 259 il i I fc< I 1^ Of o 5 S ^ &> m o P4 I V i I i & S I 09 M 2 s I -8 I m S8 H^ i3 to v-) Oft ■!0 35 CO Cl § §s §§ Si 00" «o Q ow I Si si s'5 90 3<» «5 s 55 63 ll§ ^_ ^^5 S8 J?_8 3 §§ §S g§ §g i ss 88 is s^ I'M t-iO to od«o >co >0) Q0>4 10' •^.-T tec 03 I CO >"«• 0004 ) i-( OOr-t '3> 000 «<» ^CJ « "i o So -v^ "10 S§ si §S ^^ §§ CO (N ^■^ CJ c* 'CO t-l eoSs N I" ci" M lOCfl eo 01 0Q»O 06-* Oicsi ?5'^t< ufeo qToo r-Tio too rt 01 eo^ tNleo" ooo i-Too iCr-T toco" lo CO CO w 23 §S gS too© to- SS -^^ II ?i2 II eor-i "* I— I to " 00 di oO'T tO! 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CO »o ( g! t^»0 r-t fS3 r- 1 1—1 5p"fl il CO :o CO 35 Oi C0( CO" s; 00 1- lot-r coc5 o "3 g3 o T-t 55? 8 ?0 OOCSI to o eMM coo coco ICO o'co l>-CO ^; o O CC rt< O odtC 10 C-i CO t^co S2 M 00 00 2:S CO t« >0 ■<*' .-I t^OO CM rH o • 25! 00 COCO eoco ) 1— I >o» c: CO 10 c-1 Clr^ 00 OO ss§ op 'I* o^ 15 10 ^ M 000 o« CMQ ErSS »0( ^ to S5o OJf CO i-h" ■*eo i-H to t^ g 35 O Oi- CO f-i ■«* CO t-O 05Ca C0C3 O CO c-oo oe Q I--CO oto 0006 CO go T-H i-< to "3^ ^^ SS^ sg T-I'OO o «oo S3 OCO t^eo 00 os' 00 T-H CO 00 • *- '*'0'2*^^rHCS_.'»'CO CM C CO B ^ cc W5- OCO ©-o e © = OS'S c'S > "S«oai'Sc^H55ofl?3 !SC,2 © c c « •^2¥2'222-g'?^ = 5 = X3 fl H' o o o >>a a §|5^« 9 xa =1 »TJ >--^ ^ =^ S S fl « x^ S ® f= ;,.^ " p 3 ^u o u s 3 pJ: S 0^% O en o^ »« v< ^1, O o] o C .©0000 s ^— t^'^sRS- ccoooogcas®— * — M t* « la « i> o -4 «« m « -• « 5 if^ li PART I: GLOSSARY ON SCHEDULE K APPENDIXES A AND B 2a Hi ' III 1 i mil Appendix A.— DUTIES ON RAW WOOL AND CERTAIN ARTICLES OF WOOL MANUFACTURE IN AUSTRIA-HUNGARY, BELGIUM, CANADA, FRANCE, GERMANY, ITALY, JAPAN, RUSSIA, AND SWITZERLAND. The United States, by virtue of its most-favored-nation and com- mercial treaties with Austria-Hungary, Belgium, Germany, Italy, Japan, Russia, and Switzerland, enjoys the lowest rates of duty applicable to imports of wool and woolens into said countries. In the case of Canada and France, however, such imports are dutiable under their general tariff when originating from the United States. Canada has a "triple" tariff — the general tariff for countries which have no most-favored-nation treaty with it; the intermediate tariff, the duties under which are applied to imports from most-favored- nation treaty countries; and the British preferential tariff, which, as the name indicates, covers imports from Great Britain and certain of its colonies. France has a "dual" tariff — the general tariff, cor- responding to the Canadian general tariff; and the minimum tariff, corresponding to the Canadian intermediate tariff. The rates under all three tanffs in the case of Canada, and under both in the case of France, are given in the annexed tables covering those countries, for purposes of comparison. The rates g^ven for all the countries enumerated have been coUated from the original tariffs, the Brussels translations, and tariff clippings from numerous papers containing information in advance of the Brus- sels supplements regarding changes in rates by virtue of treaties, etc., received up to November 9. The units of weight, measure, and currency that obtain in these countries have been converted into the units ootaining in the United States, and, with one or two exceptions, the rate of duty has been reduced to the 100-pound basis. Because of this conversion of the units of weight and measure into United States standards, the divid- ing lines should only be considered as very close approximations and not as absolute dividing lines for classification purposes when enumer- ated under paragraph numbers where the classification of a piece of cloth, for instance, varies in the original tariff according to the variation in the weight of the cloth of 1 gram per square meter. This is necessitated by the fractional loss in conversion, sufficient, at times, to seemingly bring a given piece of cloth under one dividing line as converted, when it should properly come under the next preced- mg dividing line. 263 ■ A* 264 EEPOKT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Austria-Hungary. Duties paid on raw wool and certain articles of wool when imported from the United States, TartJl Ko. iH>1 220 221 223 225 220 227 228 229 Article, Wool, raw, washed, combed, dyed, lileached, millpd, and waste Ad. — Wool in the grease, washed, eoiiihed, and waste. Note.— Wool combed in the shape of coarse tlireads, half finished, is dutiable under No. 225. Wadding of wool and hair; hat wadding and hat felt (the felting merely begxm, not workedj Mohair, alpaca (also mottled alpaca) and genappes yani; all these of only one or two threads, unbleached, imported at certain specified customhouses Combed yam, not specially mentioned: {A} Unbleached; single— 1. Up to No. 45 metric 2. Over No. 45 metric (B) Unbleached, of two or more threads— 1. Up to No. 45 metric 2. Over No. 45 metric Note.— Combed yam, not specially mentioned, unbleached, of one or two threads, over No. 30 and up to No. 4o metric, inclusive, for the manufacture ol passementerie, by permission and under control Double yarn called ' lasting" of No. 40 up to No. (i5 metric, for the weaving of lasting, by permission and under control (<7) Bleached, dyed, printed, single — 1. Up to No. 45 metric 2. Over No. 45 metric (D) Bleachwl, dyed, printed, of two or more threads — 1. Up to No. 45 metric 2. Over No. 45 metric (E) Mixed, dyed, or printed in the wool, also combed yam mixed with unbleached wool — 1. Single 2. Of two or more threads, also yams of threads of different colors Note. — Printed yarns for the warp of carpets, by permission and under control Carded yam, and spun yam resembling carded yarn not si*etially mentioned: (A ) Unbleached, single (B) Unbleached, of 2 or more threads (C) Bleached, dyed, printed— 1. Single o. Bleached, printed 6. Dyed 2. Of 2 or more threads NOTS.— Yam faintly colored in order to render it distinct for the purpose of weaving (yam intentionally clouded;) is dutiable as yam not colored. This jam is distin- guished from dyed yam by its faint color, which disapiiears on its being washed in tepid water (15' C). Notes to Noe. 225 and 226: 1. Yam composed of 2 strands of different color (yam with 1 strand clouded) which has received a certain degree of twisting by the self-actor is considered as single, and is dutiable under No. 225 E-1 or No. 228 C-1. 2. Fancy yam included under No. 225 B-, D-, and E-2, and under No. 226 B- and C-2 Under this heading are included yams of 2 or more strands, unbleached, bleached, dyed, printed or mixed, the spinning of which is intermpted by knots, loox)s, spirals, 61*0* Yams strongly twisted, which form such knots or loops bv touching each other and which come straight again when pulled, are not included under this heading, but are dutiable according to their kind. Yam made up for retail sale Common woolen coverlets (" Kotzen "); halina cloth; cloth list Woolen tissues, not otherwise mentioned, printed or not: (A ) Weighing more than 1 pound 4 ounces 281 grains per square yard (B) Weighing more than 5 ounces 392 grakis and up to 1 pound 4 ounces 281 grains per square yard ' 1. Weighing more than 5 ounces 392 graina and up to 14 ounces 325 grains per sauare yard 2. Weighing more than 14 ounces 325 grains and up to 1 pound 4 ounces 281 grains (C) Weighing 5 ounces 392 grains and less per square yard Notes: 1. Chemical foundation, mordanted (woolen tissues specified in No. 22&-C), for embroidery aerienne, with permission and under control 2. Use 18.416 » 16.574 24. 125 9.208 Free, I These 2 rates were fixed by treaty with Germany, and are applicable to imports from the United States. EEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 265 AusTRiA-HuxGARY — Continued. Duties paid on raw wool and certain articles *^f wool when irn ported froni the United States — Continued. Tariff No. 230 231 232 233 234 235 230 237 238 239 Article. 657 «?) Velvet and tissues similar to velvet (with cut or uncut pile), printed or not Ribbons 1'as.sementerie and button-makers' wares ] . . . Knitted wares and hosiery: (A) Knitted stuffs and hosiery in the piece (to be sold bv the rr.eter) (5) Sto^^kingsandsocks— l. ^\'eighing more than 2.2046 pounds p^ dozea pairs a. With needlework 6. Other 2. Weighing 2.2046 yxjunds or less i>er dozen pairs a. With needlework 6. Other Gloves — 1. \Vith needlework 2. Other (D) Not specially mentioned — 1. AVith needlework 2. Other Shawls and tissues similar to shawls; lace and lace kerchief?; tulle and netted stufls similar to tulle Tissues embroidered with silk Tissues embroidered with other materials Carpets: (A ) Of dog, calf, or cattle hair, with or without a slight admixture of wool (B) Knotted carpets ( Kniipfteppiche) (C; Other, and carpets of felt, printed or not Felt and felt wares (except carpets): (A ) Coarse fclts of animal hair (whether cut out , tarred, lacquered, or not) {B) Other felt and felt wares — 1. Not printed 2. Printed Articles for technical purposes: {A ) Sieve bottoms, ropes, and cordage, of horsehair: coarse network, knotted nets, and similar technical articles not otherwise mentioned Curled horsehair (krollhaare) mixed or not with other coarse animal hair or with vegetable fiber (B) Press cloths and filter cloths weighing more than 14 otmces 325 grains per square yard Note.— Press cloths and filter cloths weighing less than 14 ounces 325 grains will be treated as woolen tissues not specially mentioned. (C) Hose, woven or knitted; girths ( 2> ) T ransmission belts AVoolen rags for paper making Rate of duty (per 100 pounds). $20,257 20.257 20.257 22.099 23.02 23.02 20.257 29.465 29.465 23.94 30.386 27.624 23.02 18.416 43.83 55.248 4(3.04 2.762 10. 574 11.049 2.946 11.049 17.495 3.222 1.381 8.747 8.747 8.287 Free. 266 BIPOKT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EMi'IUBl. IhUim paid on raw wool and certain oriieieM ofimml when imported from the Un ited States. w % Tariff No* 18 24 17 54 ■ 64 Article. Woolen rags Carded woolen yarn Combed woolen yarn (Including "mixed yarn"): Single- Not dyed Dyed Twisted— Not dyed Dyed Yarns of tho goat, alpaca, llama, vicuna, and cuniei's hair Yarn prepared for retail sale (on spools, bobbins, small skeins, turds, or in any other form for retail sale). Raw wool Bands of woolen tissue for filter presses Felt rolls for alTLxing to brick-molding machines Felts for use in the manufacture of electric accumulators Mantles of wool for covering spinning or combing loom rollers Felted woolen tissue for use in faience and porcelain works Roller cloth for covering machine rollers Felted tissues and mantles of felted tissues for paper mills Note to paragraph 54.— Importers must prove to the satisfaction of the customs otncials that these are really intended for the aforesaid purposes. Shawls and scarfs of Indian cashmere Woolen tapestry Carpets and table covers of wool: Floor carpets— 1 With knotted or twisted pile, weighing pw square yard- Less than 5 pounds 8 ounee^* 208 grains » 5 pounds 8 ouncea 208 grains or more Printed' Other Table covOTa:»'< Mixed with silk O ther Shawls and scarfs of wool: » Of pure wool— • Weighing less than 7 ounces ll yards but not excwding 7,4-Jl yards More tlmn 7,441 yards but not exceeding 9,921 yards More than 9,921 yards but not excifeding 15,130 yards More than 15,130 yards Dyel vards but not exceeding 7,441 yards More than 7,441 yards but not exceeding 9.921 yards. More than 9,921 yards but not exceeding 15,130 yards More than 15,i;>0 vards Twisted, measuring to the pound of single thread— Fdr weaving- Bleached or not — Combt'd — Not more than 20,090 yards More than 20.090 vards but not exceeding 25.051 yards More than 25,031 yards but not exceeding 30,012 yards More tfmn 30,012 vards but not exceeding 34.973 yards More than 34,973 yards but not exceeding .39,934 yards More than 39,934 yards but not exceeding 44,805 yards More than 44,896 yards but not exceeding 49,850 yards More than 49,8S6 yards 4,%1 vards or less More than 4,9«)1 yards but not exceeding 7,441 yarfis More than 7,441 vards but not exceeding 9,921 yards More than 9,921 yards but not exceeding 15,i;iO yards Mor:? than 15,130 yards Dyed or priniel \ ir ! ; More than 25,051 yards but not exceeding :{ft,012 yanls More than 30,012 yards but not exceeding 34,973 yards. More than 34,973 yards but not exceeding 39,934 yards. More than 39,934 yards but not exceeding 44,8ft5 yards More than 44,895 yards but not exceeding 49,85(1 yards More than 49,866 yards Cardai— 4 961 yards or less liore "than 4,901 yards biit not exceeding 7,441 yards More than 7,441 yards but not exceeding 9,921 yards More than 9,921 yards but not exceeding 15,130 yards More than 15,130 yards Free. $2.85 2.85 3.06 Free. 3.76 4.91 5.95 7.09 8.14 9.19 10.32 10.85 l.Cl 2.45 3.24 4.03 4.91 0.47 7.62 8.67 9.80 10.85 11.91 13.04 13.56 4.38 5.17 5.96 6.74 7. 02 4.91 6.30 7.70 9.10 10.51 11.91 13.31 14.10 2.45 3.24 4.03 4.91 5.60 7.62 8.67 9.80 10.85 12.08 13.31 14.63 15.23 .'■). 17 5.95 (i. 74 7.(»2 8.40 Mini- mum tariff. Free. 12.19 2.19 2.41 Free. 2.45 3.16 3.85 4.66 6.25 5.95 C.C5 7.00 1.31 1.93 2.f»3 3.24 3.94 4.64 6.34 6.03 6.74 7.44 8.14 8.83 9.19 3.24 3.76 4.28 4.73 5.34 2.98 3.89 4.M 5.. 51 0.30 7.17 8.06 8.42 1..58 2.36 3.16 3.85 4.73 5.17 5.95 6.82 7.01 8.50 9.28 10.15 10.59 3.50 4.11 4.73 5. 25 6.95 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. France— Continued . 269 Duties paid on ram tvool and certain articles of wool imported into France, the duties under the general tariff applying to imports from the United Stales — Continued. Tariff No. 374 375 376 I 439 440 441 441 441 bis ter 442 Articles. Yarn of pure wool— Continued. Twisted, measuring to the pound of single thread— Continued. For carpets, rugs, and tapestry, combed — Bleached or not — Not more than 20,090 yards More than 20, 090 yards but not exceeding 25, 051 yards More than 25, 051 yards but not exceeding 30. 012 yards More than 30, 012 yards but not exceeding 34, 973 yards More than 34, 973 yards but not exceeding 39. 934 yards More than 39, 934 yards but not exceeding 44, 895 yards More than 44, 895 yards but not exceeding 49, 856 yards More than 49, 856 yards Dyed or printed— - ■ Not more than 20,090 yards. . .' More than 20.090 yards but not exceeding 25,051 y^ards More than 25.051 yards but not exceeding 30,012 yards More tiian 30,012 yards but not exceeding 34,973 yards More than 34,973 yards but not exceeding 39,934 yards More than 39,934 yards but not exceeding 44,895 yards More than 44,895 yards but not exceeding 49,856 yards More than 49,856 yards Yams of wool mixed with fibers other than alpaca, llama, vicuna, yak. Cash- mere goat, or camel's hair; the wool predominating in weight: Dutiable as yams of pure wool . • - • *'*• ■> -«— • Yarns of alpaca, llama, vicuna, yak. Cashmere goat, or camel's hair: ^ixed— -- ^ With wool in whatever proportions: Dutiable as yarns of pure wool. With other fibers, but the yarn of alpaca, llama, vicuna, yak, cashmere goat, or camel's hair predominating m weight: Dutiable as yarns of _ ^ , pure wool , ..^ ^^,., Fabrics oipure wool: Cloths, cashmere and other milled fabrics, and short-napped fabrics not fulled— For upholstery, weighing more than 11 ounces 347 grains per square yard Moir6 Fabrics for clothing, drapery, etc., weighing to the square yard, selvage included— 7 ounces 162 grains or less More t han 7 ounces 162 grains but not exceeding 11 ounces 347 grains. More than 11 ounces 347 grains but not exceeding 1 pound 95 grains. More than 1 pound 95 grains but not exceeding 1 pound 4 ounces 281 grains More than 1 pound 4 ounces 281 grains Muslin delaine, printed Fulled, plain, dyed in the piece, called "amazone," combed and carded or entirely carded, weighing per square yard, including the selvage— i Not more than 11 ounces 347 grains More than 11 ounces 347 grains: Dutiable under Nos. 440-441 bis, according to kind. Carpets: With knotted or tv^isted pile, of any origin, including imitations—* Of 200 rows or less 201 to 350 rows More than 350 rows Made on Jacquard looms, chenille or velvet Plain or printed , velvet Plain or printed, chenille Other Rate of duty (per 100 pounds). General tariff. $5. 69 7.35 8.93 10.59 12.17 13.83 15.49 16.28 8.40 10.06 11.64 13.31 14.88 16.54 18.21 18.99 Mini- mum tariff. 10.85 6.57 18.39 23.63 20.14 16.63 12.26 19.70 30.20 13.68 4.73 5.78 6.82 7.88 8.93 9.98 10.61 5.86 6.91 7.97 9.01 10.06 11.11 12.17 12.60 8.75 4.38 12.28 19.26 15.75 12.26 9.63 13.66 20.14 »1.61 «1.05 8 1.94 S1.29 »2.90 S1.94 10.60 7.00 7.26 4.81 5.95 3.94 10.50' 7.00 > This number does not apply to fabrics merely milled, the nap of which does not lie in a definite direc- tion, or to satins or "armures." •The surface is measured on the body of the carpet, inclusive of fag end, salvage, and fringes. An allowance of 2 per cent is made in countmg the rows. The unit in counting the rows is the meter in the same direction as the warp. The test is made in a distance of 1 cm., disregardmg fractions of a row; the result, multiplied by 10, gives the number of rows per meter. For carpets of which the texture is not uniform, the rows are counted as above, once for the part most closely woven and once for the part least Closely woven. The average of the two figures determines the classification. Fractions in the result are disregarded. » Dollars per square yard. BEPOaT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. FiiAMCi— f ootinned . JhiHai pM 4m raw wml and eertmn artieim of n'mt imported into France, the dittm under ^ penend iunf apflfmg to importi/rmti the L'mted Stai€»-~Vominmd. Tariff No. Articles. Rate 0* duty (per 100 pounds). General tariir. 443 iHliJ llfll WMM 445 446 447 450 451 452 453 453 bis 453 ter 454 Fabrics of pure wool: KMt Roods— Gloves Other articles — Fabrics in the peiet weMiinf mr wawm^ 7unl — - ith«»ifoa«»41S|5f»&.7: 2 oont^cs 415 grams but not exeecdiiig 4 winctn 185 grains More than 4 oaBem im grains btit not eawjeetling 7 ocmces 102 graina 7 oaoeni W2 gnam btit not eatetediig i i oonceV 347 More tlukQ 11 omxm 347 graios but not fsxceeding 1 pound' 95 grains More tlian 1 pound M gradiw Imt not exeeediniF 1 pound 4 ounces 281 graina Mafe than 1 pound 4 onnees 281 grains ••---■ All otiier articles. inclodbicganBciitssaid partsVhereof", fitted or not AU artiekss, other than kofl gloTta^ embnridcred bv hand or machine, or ornamented vftlilue or trlnxBiiiigsi .'.,. t.. Trimmings and ribbons: Of pure wool Mixed witbsiik or flaM«li,th«iroolfmknsiihiatinfi^ Fezorredeaps Tapestry Shawls, broch^d or fignred, other than Indian cashmere etmwh or knitted Bolting cIoCli, seomlem Blankets kQcmii m Straeburg ilioeii. VPS IIInS List slippers^ ami fiir-Mned Cloth Ifet Velvet tor upholstery * Fabrics of wool, mixed: Lasting, of wool warp and cotton woof. Cloth-s, caahDtteriit, and other miBed fabrics witft warp of cotton, and irtiort- nftpped fabf icst not milled, with warp of cotton, the wool predominating in weight, weighing per squwre yard— SonneeeSlSlgransorhaR. More than 5 ounces 392 grains but not exceeding 8 ounces 3 and other onMunents shall not be con- ■dered aa embroidered or ornamented with lace or tcinuuing, provided that such additions be siinnle wccssorles iaoreastag tlw vatue of the article by kas tkaa 15 per cent (applies only to the minimum tariff) » Each. ' •Free. « UtrecM Telvets of mohair or of wool, pure or mixed, the mohair or wool predominating In weight, with Off witliout a luixtaie of silk in a proponiun of leas than 10 per cent, are included under this head. BJEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Germany. 271 DuM&t paid on raw wool and certain articles of wool when imported into Germany from Urn United States. Tariff No. 413 414 416 417 418 419 420 421 422 423 424 425 426 428 429 431 Articles. Sheep's wool (also glover's wool); hair of the goat and liare (also rabbit), etc.; combed, bleached, dyed, curled, or milled Artificial wool (shoddy), dyed or undyed Wool or other animal hair, carded or combed, other than crisp hair (krollhaare) ... Yarn of the hair of cattle, deer, dogs, or hogs, or other coarse animal hair, mixed or not with other animal or vegetable textile material or jraans, except silk or oottcm, of one or two strands: Unbleached (in the gray) Bleached, dyed, printed Genappes, mohair, and alpaca yarn, mixed or not with other animal or vegetable tex- tile material or yams, except silk or cotton: Unbleached (m the gray)— Single Of 2 or 3 threads '.S.V.'"'V. Of 4 or more threads * ] " . " Bleached, dyed, or printed— Single , Of 2 or 3 threads Of 4 or more threads '"_ Hard-combed yam of lustrous wool, over 7.87i inches in length, mixed or not with other animal hair, if the yarn has not lost the quality of hard-combed yam as a result of the mixture: I' nb leached (in the gray)— Sir^hj Of 2 or 3 threads ] Of 4 or more threads Bleached, dyed, printed— Single Of 2 or 3 threads !.""""!.'! I Of 4 or more threads Yam of wool or other animal hair, mixed or not w ith vegetable textile materiais,' except cotton, not coming mider Nos. 417 to 421: Combed yam (worsted yam) unbleached (in the gray)— Single O f 2 or 3 t h read s 1 ..'"!!!.'!!""!.'! i O f 4 or more threads .V.\ ," ComT>ed yam (worsted yam) , bleached, dyed, printed— Single Of 2 or 3 tlireads 1 ".].!...!..!.! ! ! Of 4 or more threads ' ... Carded yam, unbleached (in the gray)— Single Of 2 or 3 threads Of 4 or more threads Carded yam, bleached, dyed, printed— Single Of 2 or 3 threads '..',[ Of 4 or more threads Yam of all lands of w ool, mixed or not with v(^table textile materiaJs, except cotton" made up for retail sale , Carpets made with indication for cutting (without sewmg), or in the pleoeVprinted or Of dyed or undved yam, other than "of the hair of cattle, deer, hogs, or similar ced— 1. Not dyed 2. Dyed i. Shoddy— 1 . Not dyed 2. Dyed Waste wool and flocic Yam of carded wool, single: 0. Unbleached, measuring per pound— 1. Up to 4,961 yards 2. More than 4,fi61 yards 6. Bleached (same duty as on unbleached yarn, with an additional 20 per cent). c. Dyed * Same duty as on unbleached yarn, with an additional Yam of carded wool, twisted : Bame duty as on single yam, with an additional Yams of combed wool, single: o. Unbleached, measuring t>er pound— 1. Up to 24.806 yards 2. More than 24,8<)6 yards h. Bleached (same duty as on luibleached yam, with an additional 20 per cent). c. Dyed: Same duty as on unbleached yam, with an additional Yams of combed wool, twisted (same duty as on single yam, with an additional... Tissues of wool: a. Carded, weighing per square yard— 1. 8 ounces 370 grains or less 2. More than 8 ounces 370 grains, but not more than 14 ounces 325 grains .... 3. More than 14 ounces 325 grains Press cloths of wool weighing more than 1 pound 13 ounces 212 grains per square yard Woven felts for the manufacture of wood or straw pulp, cellulose, and paper, without distinction of weight Rate of duty (per 100 pounds). Free. ia875 a 875 1.75 1.313 2.188 0.70 0.70 Free. 3.939 4.814 2.188 X. 4olf 5.252 9.5C5 2.188 1.488 16.195 14.007 12.256 10.505 9.029 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. Italy — Continued . 273 Duties on raw wool and certain articles of wool paid in Italy when imported from the United States, on the 100-pound 5a«wr— Continued. Tariff No. 138 Articles. Tissues of wool — Continued. 6. Combed, weighing per square yard— 1. 5 ounces 392 grains or less xa;***V ' 2. More than 5 ounces 392 grains, but not more than 14 ounces 325 graina 3. More than 14 ounces 325 grains Press cloths of wool weighing more than 2 pounds 190 grains per square 139 142 143 yopd ...... - Smooth tissues," not fuUed, of wool pure or mixed with silk or floss silk in a quantity less than 12 per cent and weighing per square yard- 5 ounces 392 grains - ^ - - . More than 5 ounces 392 grains, but not more than 14 ounces 325 grains . . Stuffs for furniture weighing more than 14 ounces 325 grains per square Note —Woolen tissues'oontaining combed wool, although that material may not pre- dominate in weight, as well as woolen tissues containing less than 12 per cent of silk, are treated as tissues of combed wool. j. ^ • ^ ^*v .,„ »^^;*{^«„i c Printed : Same duty as on the tissues, according to kmd, with an additional. . . . d. Brocaded: Same duty as on the tissues, with an additional ** 1. Chain stitch: Same duty as on nonembroidered tissues, with an additional.. 2. Lock stitch: Same duty as on nonembroidered tissues, with an additional. . 0.' Up to 0.11811 inch in thickness: Same duty as on tissues of carded wool. b. More than 0.11811 inch in thickness Felt soles for footwear Of ox, goat, or sheep's hair, not dyed, with warp of Unen or cotton Carpets of wool or waste wool, including those in which textile materials other than Bilk predominate in weight Bate of duty (per 100 pounds). 121.886 19.259 16.633 10.50S 19.259 17.508 8.754 2.626 3.601 13. 131 17.508 1.75 1.75 3.501 5.252 8.754 8.754 Japan. Duties paid on raw wool and certain articles of wool whenAmported from the United States, 282 283 284 295 301 Sheep's wool, goat's hair, and camel's hair, including those carded or combed Woolen or worsted yams: Undyed or imprinted— , ^ ^ ^^ Yarn made by twisting woolen and worsted yams t<^ther — Yams made by twistmg those of difEerent number together and loop yams. . . Other- Worsted— Not exceeding No. 32 metnc Other T'STooIgh .,,...,..,.,.•..••-.♦--••••--•--•---•-•-"---•-"*""••••"■""•'*• Other— Same dutyas on undyed or unprinted with an addition of Mixed yarns of cotton and wool: 1. Undyed or unprinted - - . - 2. Other— Same duty as on undyed or unprmted, with an addition of Waste or old fibers, waste yams, and waste threads . . . Tissues of wool, and mixed tissues of wool and cotton, of wool and suk, or of wool, cotton, and silk: . ^ „ ^ j. 1. Velvets, plushes, and other pile tissues, with piles cut or uncut— A. Partly of silk B. Other Other— A. Of wool— - a. Weighing not more than 5 ounces 392 grams per square yard c. Weighing not more than 14 ounces 325 grains per square yard d. Other Of wool and cotton— a. Weighing not more than 2 ounces 415 grams per square yard b. Weighing not more than 5 ounces 392 grains per square yard c. Weighing not more than 14 ounces 325 grains per square yard d. Other » Rate of duty (per 100 pounds). Free. 2. B. $4,968 6.587 4.517 .941 3.726 1.129 Free. 67.763 18.82 21.643 16.938 15.056 20.702 19.761 11.292 6.776 1 15 per cent ad valorem. 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 ^18 274 BEPOBT OF TABIPP BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. EBPOET OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 275 Japan — Continued. Duties paid on raw wool ctnd certain articles of wool when imported/rmn the United States — Continued. Tarill No. 301 Articles. N 307 326 327 328 329 330 335 336 337 Ml 342 Tissues of wool, and mixed tissaes of wool and cotton, of wool and silk, or of wool cotton, and silk— Continued. ' 2. Other -Continued. C. Of wool and silk or of wool, cotton and silk— C-1. Containing not more than 10 per cent by weight of silk— a. Weighing not more than 2 ounces 415 grains per square yard b. WeMiing not more than 5 ounces 392 grains per square yards c Weighing not more than 14 ounces 326 grains per square yard . . . d. Other C-2. Containing not more than 25 per cent by weight of silk— a. Weighing not more than 2 ounces 415 grains per square yard b. Weighing not more than 5 ounces 392 grains per square yard c. Weighing not more than 14 ounces 325 grains per square yard d. Other C-3. Other Felts, of wool, or wool and cotton Single blankets, of wool, or wool and cotton Traveling rugs, single, other than whdly or partly of silk Carpets and carpeting: 1. Wholly or paruy of wool— (a) Woven with pUee— A-1. Having piles conatitated with warp or woof of one system— a. With cut piles b. Other A-2. Other— a. With cut piles b. Other B. Of felt C. Other .■■...* Tablecloths, single, of wool, or wool and cotton ." Curtains and window blinds, of wool, or wool and cotton Air cushions other than wholly or partly of silk Bed quilts and cushions, other than wholly or partly of silk: A. Stuffed with feathers or down B. Other Woven belting for machinery and woven hoses, other than of cotton Bags Tissues not otherwise provided for Bate of duty (per 100 pounds). $54.20 51.192 48.181 45.17 70.766 67.755 64.743 61.732 (») 17.842 11.443 22.585 13.588 8.055 16.75 10.238 6.436 (») 36.964 35.006 46. 675 46.675 29.398 9.034 Free. (») 1 40 per cent ad valorem. s 30 per cent ad valorem. Tbe following table gives the weight in ounces per linear yard of various widths of cloths, corresponding to the weights enumerated in the tariff: Weight per square yard. 2 ounces 415 grains. 5 ounces 392 grains. 14 ounces 325 grains. Weight per linear yard of— 27-inch width Ounces. 2.212 2.458 2.622 2.949 3.277 4.424 4.588 Ounces. 4.424 4.915 6.243 5.898 6.554 8.848 9.175 Ounces. 11.059 12.289 13.108 14. 746 16.385 22.119 22.939 30-inch width. 32-inch width. 36-inch width 40-inch width 54-inch width 56-inch width- Russia. Duties paid on raw wool and certain articles of wool when imported from the United States — Continued . Tariff No. U6 108 109 900 201 ao2 |i|li ao3 206 207 208 Articles. Bate of duty (per 100 pounds). Wool and down (fluffy hairj, uncombed, unspun: 1. Unwashed or washed, undyed; wool combings and waste undyed, carded or not 2. Dyed; artiflcial and milled; wool combings and waste, dyed, carded or not; mixtures of vegetable fibers with wool Wool, combed, spun, or twisted: 1. Combed— a. Undyed b. Dyed 2. Spun— a. Up to and including No, 67 (metrical system)— Undyed Dyed b. Above No. 57 (metrical system) — Undyed Dyed 3. Twisted, prepared from yam of the following numbers: a. Up to and including No. 57 — Undyed Dyed b. Above No. 57— Undyed Dyed 4. Fancy, of all sorts (with knots, eyes, rings, and the like) — a. Undyed b. Dyed Notes.- Bleached wool is dutiable as undyed wool. Spun and twisted wool speci- fied under No. 186, subdivisions 2 and 3, are dutiable at the rates fixed for those sub- divisions even if mixed with cotton, flax, or hemp. Woolen felt and felt nmterials of all kinds; articles not separately designated, cut out of felt Felts of wool or felted tissues of wool, pure or mixed with cotton, for use in factories or workshops Woolen materials, woven, not separately designated: Measuring 2,605 square inches (approximately 18 sq. ft.) or less to the pound Measuring more than 2,605 square inches to the j)ound Note.— Woolen materials, woven, not separately designated, will pay the duties fixed under No. 199, even if mixed with cotton. The articles specified in Nos. 198 and 199, printed (same duties as shown under those numbers, increased by 30 per cent). Tissues, shawls, and scarfs, in the nature of cashmeres, of a woolen warp, with a weft of colored wool or of colored wool and colored silk, with or without admixture of cot- ton; also genuine cashmeres and French cashmeres WoolOTi manufactures for use in factories: 1. Continuous woolen breadths for use in factories, vsrith a circumference of more than 280 inches Tissues of wool and half wool and cloth for use in factories and workshops . . . Filter and press cloth 2. (in) Press and filtering cloths Woolen carpets of all kinds Note.— Warps of wool for carpets with stamped figures are dutiable at the rate of . . . Tulle, in the piece or in cuttings, other than of cotton or silk Lace and lace manufacttu-es, other than of silk or with an admixture of sUk. Embroideries, embroidered tissues, and tulle: 1. Of all kinds, except those enumerated in subdivision 2 of the present nimiber (208)— ex. b. All other kinds, except those of silk or half silk, embroidered with silk, fold, silver, or tinsel Imbroldered with common materials 2. Tissues and tulle, of not less than 28 inches in width, embroidered on one edge to a width not exceeding 1 J inches— b. If embroidered with silk, gold, silver, or tinsel they pay duty according to the material of the tissue, increased by 50 per cent. 2-b. If embroidered with materials other than those named under the letter "a" of this subdivision they pay duty according to the material of the tissue, increased by 30 per cent. S4.278 9.260 11.765 16.756 17.690 20.607 19. 679 22.532 19.822 22.674 23.245 26.097 23.245 26.097 51.34 11.408 85.567 114.089 256.701 11.408 11.408 11.408 19.965 37.649 10.695 285.223 268.11 616.083 399.314 N. B.— Duty paid on imported wool Is refunded when the wool is used in factories for conversion into broadcloth for export. 276 BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOAEI> ON SCHEDUIiE K. Switzerland. Duties on raw wool and certain articles of wool paid in Switzerland on imports from the United States, on the lOO-pound basis. Tariil No. 455 456 457 459 462 463 4M 4fiS 467 468 468 470 471 472 473 '474 i75 476 «77 478 479 480 481 482a 482b 483 488 489 491 492 Artidefl. Wool, raw, washed, dyed Waste (flock, noils) Combed wool. Wool sliver (trait) Woolen wadding (includes carded wool in layers, whether glued or not) Woolen yarn, unbleached: Of carded wool- Single Of several threads Of combed wool- Single Of several threads W oolen yam, gassed WoolOT yam, bleached, dyed, printed, etc.: Of carded wool- Single Of several threads Of combed wool- Single Of several threads Yam of alpaca, mohair, and camel'a hair (includes woolen yam on cops and on bobbins cross wound) Woolen yams made up for retail sale (on reels, in IwUls or skeins, etc.) Woolen tissues, unbleached: O f yam of carded wool Of yam of combed wool Gassed stuffs for embroidery :vi ;•, ; y-AV Woolen tissues, bleached, dyed, printed, woven of dyed yam (tissues of yam of carded or combed wool): Weighing more than 8 ounces 370 grahis per square yard Weighing less than 8 ounces 370 grains per square yard— a. Zanella and serge for lining, from 54.33 inches to 65.90 inches, inclusive, hi breadth b. Other Ad 474/475— Shawls and scarfe in the piece (uncut): Wovct. (See also No. 483.) Ad 471/475— Woolen tissues, also with paper glued on one side. Worsted shag, stuff called "Krimmer" (astrachan) Ad 476— Tissues of half-wool called sealskin. Lasting for the manufacture of boots and shoes - Ad 477— Lastings, unbleached or dyed. C^oth list Cioverings (bed and table covers, etc.), with borders: , . . Without needlework <» trimming, even with fringes made in weavmg or merely knotted Ad 479— Woolen tissues, hi the piece, for ooverhigs. With needlework or trimming - ;--;-a' Ad 480— Woolen coverings, wJloon edged; woolen oovenngs composed of 2 pieces sewn together (travelmg rugs, etc.). Carpets and rugs: „ , ,^ ,... Not wovenlike velvet, without fringe or needlework other than sewn ot spun hems. Carpets and rugs not woven like velvet, with warp of twisted unbleached woolen yam and weft of dyed woolen yam, with fringes made in weavfaig and merely knotted Other Ad 481/482— Woolen tissues for carpets and rugs, in the piece. Shawls, scarfis, fichus, etc., woven ;;••-:.• c-^wwv ;*•■ Felted woolen tissues (felted woolen tissues are endless tissues, such as felt-like woolen cylinder covers, drying felts, etc., for the manufacture of wood pulp, straw, fiber, cellulose, and paper) •^•'^•r ;*i*» j-*"j"'V Felt stuffs (Ught cloth felt, as supple as stuffs, but merely fulled and not woven, e. g., for articles of clothing, petticoats, jackets, shoes, etc.) Manufactures of felt, without needlework: Hat shapes of woolen felt Other- Unbleached Ad 492— Felt waddhig, covered with paper, for cartridges; pieces of stuffs for soles, made from cloth refuse, agglutinated by pressure. Bleached, dyed, printed Ad 492/498— Felt blankets, felt carpets; stiffened felt (beer felt, etc.) and generally all thick felt not as supple as stuffs. Rate of duty. Free. Free. Free. Free. SO. 612 .525 .525 .525 .700 1.050 1.400 1.575 1.225 1.75 .175 3.064 2. 626 5.252 .875 6.565 2.626 8.754 3.5(a .70 .350 3. .501 5.252 2.626 2.188 4.377 8.754 6.565 2.188 2.620 2.188 3.501 f I ) Appendix B.— COMPARATIVE STATEMEITT OF DXTTIES ON WOOI AITD MAirUFACTURES OF WOOL FEOM 1789 TO 1909. The following two tables present a comparative statement in parallel columns of the rates of duty on wool and manufactures of wool from the first tariff ever enacted by the United States until the act at present in force. Table 1 contains the rates under the acts from 1789 to 1883. Table 2 those under the acts from 1890 to 1909. The tables represent the first published comprehensive compila- tion of rates jf duty not only on articles specincally mentioned in the various tariff acts, but also on those not specially provided for, but ( overed by Treasury or court decisions. The published Treasury Decisions begin with the year 1868, and all these decisions bearing on wool or manufactures of wool have been gone over and used in the preparation of these tables. For the f ts anteceding 1868 only such court decisions as were readily 1 Me were utilized. -i.rticles and rates not specifically mentioned in the tariff are printe(i in italics in the two tables. Before the act of April 27, 1816. any article not named would be covered by the provision for all nonenumerated articles. The act oi 1816 contained a provision for *Voolen manufactures of aU descriptions" which would cover any woolen goods not enumerated. After 1842 any article not enumer- ated, if entirely of wool or of which wool was the component material of chief value, was dutiable as manufactures of wool not specially provided for; if composed in part, but not in cliief value, of wool, it would be covered by the so-callea similitude provision, which reads as foUows: Section 20, act of August 30, 1842: There shall be levied, collected, and paid on each and every nonenumerated article which bears a similitude, either in material, quality, texture, or the use to which it may be applied, to any enumerated article chaigeable with duty, the same rate of duty which is levied and charged on the enumerated article which it most resembles in any of the particulars before mentioned; and if any nonenumerated article equally resembles two or more enumerated articles, on which different rates of duty are chargeable, there shall be levied, collected, and paid on such nonenumer- ated article, the same rate of duty as is chargeable on tiie article which it resemblea paying the highest duty. 277 278 REPOBT OF TABIFF BOAB© OK SCHEDULE K, UH < I Pi Ot 11 o u o o 8 Ip p. 0,p, Pi Oi P. n ra^ ^ S5 >o 1 Is 9 3 3 5 5 5^ XJ^ £ jD jO jQjQ d'd' Pi Pi d«Pt S3 S3 ^11 o o en Ob Ob Ok 00 O^ 00 O) oo CO OOOO COCOCOCQCOCO I o P* P« • • 1 Pi p. 3 3 1 I c> u o p. 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BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SOHEDUUB K, 281 Ml 66 56 c5 • * p. 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BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHBDTTI^E K. 285 6 6 6 PtAOt ssts •OTJ-O sss • • • fi£5 iilj p« i )* II 666 oo«o CS <3 O 666 6 66 i 6 »>■* «M ••» BW 1)5 • ^ JQ • « . • . .-O *0 CO B C ^ ft fit 43 id *5 P. s O O O Q O "^ 1 i i 6 6 6 0*0, • m a 88 s S 1 1 £££ • 41 IS ii§ ^ * «0 g g 5? eo 1-1 •» a S g g! § § ' f *- »- o - *? 5 •» too-i C » « « ^^r ft P o ** t> u ^ • • • ass t{cJ 1.1 • • • aaa m CO CO §§ m% s i§§ g S ^ fSg m a 1 a u u u aaa o o o • • ■ ■A aCk aCk •SISf Sq § a aa ^ «> ^t^ a 8 S I3§ §1 ® . . o o o • • • • • p ^ • • J^^S S : • 'S is 1^ • > • OD ~ n a * ! ! «:ja >ii a ■ * 'XiSaia •"* ■ ^^ ^^ mK Jvf >«* *«** (Mk SS 39 iii s§§ •5 •> •3 eo CO CO o o u dda • a • • • • • • aa a a •S'S *> *» a^a 111 • O V • • . « .1 • u • « t ^a*t «• «« S^o ^ a»- mill . u . &* S -• "^ •» . . a X a % O Ml .«g 99Q 100*3 ieo< O "Ss "S .g 4J ■** — ill I ill a I I s S nil "3 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 287 \ i a o I QQ c a "a o "^ ^ Mb - $ 288 KEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUMl K. BEPOBT OF TAHIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 289 o < 8? a S O O R R cv • • . . •» "0 fiija. ^ ^ ^^aj§;8 9 S •^ 55 J3 & SS 8 I I f^ <0 0> 1-4 «p A 1^ A<-4< (CO CO M CO CO coco 1 1-< >C0( I C0( >co CO CO CO < 8 ^ I Si (^4 £ £ S £ ^ •^' Oo u u o • • aa gi >o>o t. io77n /o^ «f i«Q7^ 1 bb Articles of braid shaped to fit at the neck of women's cloaks or waists. T. D. 19770 (act oi 1887). I ee Printedfeltsauares forottomansorfurnitvire. T. D. 172G0 (act of 1894). I a Astrakhans. T. D . 14290; 52 Fed. Rep., 941; 66 Fed. Rep., 477 (act of 1890). 1 6 Rareees T. D. 19627 (act of 1897). . _ 1 e BSIte fancy, composed of willow, metal, and wool. T. D. 9403 (act of 1883). Id Bombazines. 25Fed.Cas.,456(actof 1824). I ccidcloth. T. D.9012(actof 1883) 14503 (actof 1890) I ee CarriaKe aprons of waterproofed cloth. T. D. 13754 (act of 1890). »/ Cashmere clotnformakiag shawls. T.D. 21650 (act of 1897). Iff rattle hair fabrics. T.D. 28592, 29390, 29825, 29839 (act of 1897). ^ ^ ,_ ^ • h Chair seating, composed of woven bamboo seating.lined with wool and jute cloth, stuffed with straw. T D 26708(abstract8019)(actof 1897). I /cottonqullts with wool fringe. 113 Fed. Rep., 816; 120 Fed. Rep., 1021 (act of 1897). I i DoUs' wijrs of goat hair attached to a cotton foundation. T.D. 14921 (act of 1890). I k Dusters composed of a wooden handle to which are attached strips of woolen cloth, commonly known 1 I^imltuTe S wS and wijl tep^try, wool chief value. T. D. 13225 (act of 1890), 31492 (act of 1909). , niat crowns of wool and silk. T. D. 10541 (act of 1883). *nHat crowns, worsted, embroidered. T.D. 14130 (axjt of 1890). , ^ „ ^ ^^,„ ,,o -c ^ ^ c«t 1 n Horse bandages forsick horses, composed of flaimel orwoolen cloth. T. D. 23619; 113 Fed. Rep., 856 1 Interlining! so-called dometts. T. D. 28536 (abstract 17348) (act of 1897). p Jackets, jacketing, couch roll covers, and endless felts. T. D. 11381 (act of 1890). I q Lap robes. 113 Fed. Rep., 816; 120 Fed. Rep., 1021 (act of 1897). ^ ^ ^ ^. , ^ I r Machine blankets. T. I). 554 (act of 1867), 3147 (act of 1875), 11381, 15705, 16947; 65 Fed. Rep., 496 (act of 1890). H Machine belting. T. D. 29172 (act of 1897). , « ^ .^...^^ * ,,c«nN I < Mats or rugs made of dressed sheepskins with the wool on. T-D. 10745 (act of 1890). ,,,„,„„♦ I u Musical-instrument key pads, of leathei, cotton, and woolen fabric, wool chief value. T. D. 11353 (act of 1890). I V Nuns' veiling. T. D. 12237 (act of 1890). . ^ ^ j _,.t. , , 1 w Ornaments composed of bisque dolls' heads, glued to disks of pasteboard covered with several layers of woolen cloth, commerciaUy known as penwipers although not designed for actual use as such. T. D. ^^pSnters' tapestry or canvas. T. D. 12234; 14062 (act of 1890). ^ „^^^ , ^ , ,^^, I » Penwipers composed of wool and metal, metal chief value. T. D. 24595 (act of 1897). 1 1 Powderpads or puflfs, consistmg of flat circular pieces of a woolen fabric, used for applymg face powder. T. D. 28142; 28222; 28300 (Ab. 16050) (act of 1897). I A Press cloth made of camel's or some dutiable goat's hair. T. D. 21200; 26569; 27792; 27873 (Ab. 14202); 28776; 29352; 29548 (suit 4835) (act of 1897). I » Scapularies of wool and cotton with religious emblems printed thereon. T. D. 11842 (act of 1890). 1*^ Sieves composed of animal hair and wood, wood chief value. T. D. 12946 (act of 1890). I » Toflca nets. T. D. 14760 (act of 1890). 1 ^ Traveling rugs. T. D. 13964 (act of 1890); 17280; 17353 (act of 1894); 24819 (act of 1890); 124 Fed Rep., 295 (act of 1890). (Under the act of 1883 as rugs. 53 Fed. Rep., 1008.) 1 ' Upholstery goods of wool, sDk, and cotton, wool chief yalue. T. D. 10664; 28146 (circuit court) (act of 1883). 1 ® Wool prepared and crimped to resemble human haii. T. D. 12331 (act of 1890). « The following articles have been held to bo dutiable as wool trimmings: •o Astrakan trimmings. T. D. 14565; 65 Fed. Rep., 420; 71 Fed. Rep., 692 (act of 1890). «6 Mohair gimps, insertion, edge, volants, braid gimp8,[feincy braids, garnitures, hussar sets. (act of 1897). «e Mohair plush trimmings (cotton and goat hair). T. D. 14694 (act of 1890). - *d Narrow woven fabrics, decorated with superadded ornamentation. T. D. 26049; 28329 (act of 1897). • The following articles have been held to be dutiable as wool dress goods: . ,, ^ •o Bengalines, of silk and worsted, under act of 1890. T. D. 12840. Later it was held tha* as bengalmes were used for sleeves or waists they were not dress goods. T. D. 20924; 91 Fed. Rep., 115 (act of 1894). The proviso to paragraph 403, act of 1909, relegates these goods to the wool schedule. ^„ .„ , . . • b Dress goods of silk and wool or worsted, silk chief value. T. D. 12840; 13287 (act of 1890); 26943 (act ot 1894); 28580 (act of 1897); T. D. 26248 (abstracts 5560-3 and 5598-9); 143 Fed. Rep., 919 (act of 1894); 156 Fed. Bep., 940 (act of 1897). Dress goods of wool and silk or worsted and silk. T. D. 10343; 10782 (act of 1883). • c Dress goods in part embroidered with silk or metal. T. D. 10781 (act of 1883); 11975; 13983; 14302 (act of 1890); 25155; 25340; 26122; 26538 (act of 1897); 60 Fed. Rep., 465; 66 Fed. Rep., 283 (act of 1890); 123 Fed. Rep., 193 (act of 1897). „ , ^ ,„„ ,t « •d Dress goods of wool and cotton. T. D. 10326; 11391; 38 Fed. Rep., 30; 40 Fed. Rep., 529; 139 U. S., 608; 139 U.S., 612 (act of 1883). ^ m t> ,.„^ • e Fancy French flannels used for making ladies' sacks and dresses and not for underwear. T. D. 17079 (act of 1894). • /Flannels, certain, used as women's and children's dress goods. T. D. 11866 (act of 1890). iff Facings of haircloth for dress skirts. T. D. 18228 (act of 1894). «* G loria cloth, without border, composed of wool or worsted and cotton, or of silk and wool or worsted, silk chief value. T. D. 12230, 14713, 16305; 54 Fed. Rep., 158; 59 Fed. Rep., 452 (act of 1890); 16305, also act of 1894. « Henriettas, sUk warp. T. D. 10571 (act of 1883). , , «» > «i Persian flannels composed of worsted, cotton, and silk, worsted chief value. T. D. 17385 (act of 1894). Wt Scotch flannels, used chiefly in the manufacture of outing shirts. T. D. 17971 (act of 1894). » I Shirtings of cotton, wool, and sUk. T. D. 10682 (act of 1890). •m Thibet cloths or coatings. 37 Fed. Rep., 778 (act of 1883). . . ,. „ ^ to So-called "brush bindii^s,'* for protectmg the bottom of women's skirts. Dutiable as bmdings. T. D. 21959 (act of 1897). «* Woolen or worsted bhidMgs. 29 Fed. Cas., 1055 (act of 1832). , ^ _ ^^^ •a Horse blankets are dutiable as blankets. T. D. 15021 (act of 1890); 22985; 24701; 25826 (abstract 4000) (act of 1897). 320S0°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 19 T. D. 21060 290 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 291 •» Mexican tarapes, dutiable as blankets. T. D. 22377 (act of 1897). *e Cotton blankets containing about 6 per cent of wool, T. D. 20398 (act of 1897). • The following articles have been held to be dutiable as braids of wool or hair: •b Braid ornaments of horsehair. T. D. 11342 (act of 1890). •6 Braids composed of horsehair and cotton, or other vegetable fiber, and of felt, grass, wood shavings, cotton, and ramie. T. D. 11368; 12;J59; 12546; 13009; 15163 (act of 1890). _ •c " Coxcomb " braid of worsted and metal threads, metal threads chief value. T. D. 16361 (act of 1894). M Worsted braids intended to ornament women's cloaks or waists. T. D. 19770 (act of 1897). T The growth on skins of the cabretta, a cross between a sheep and a goat, is dutiable as WOOL T.D. 25411 (abstract 1980); 26487; 27191; 27258; 28538 (act of 1897). • The growth on Cape sheepskins as third-class wool. T. D. 11357; (act of 1890) 28632; 29119 (abstract 19295); 31543 (abstract 25428) (act of 1897). As first-lass wool. T. D. 10492 (act of 1883); 29058; 29138 (act of 1897) • Carbonhdng Is the treatment of wool with a bath of sulphuric acid, which does not Iniure the animal flbw, but decomposes the burrs and other vegetable matter. T.D. 1814 (act of 1894). Carbonized wool is provided for by name only in the act of 1S94. Being wool advanced beyond the washed or scoured condition, ft is covered by paragraph 376 (1909); 364 (1897)7390 (1890). » The act of 1894 provides for carbonized noils 16 per cent, and noils free. In the acts of 1890, 1897, and 1909 noils without qualification are made dutiable. " Carded waste Is not provided for by name in the acts of 1890, 1897, and 1909, but is covered by the pro- vision for all other wastes not specially provided for. w Carpeting composed of cotton and straw or grass, cotton chief value, dutiable as cotton carpet. T. D. 14315 (act of 1890). Ma Felt carpeting In pieces 1 J yards wide and 70 to 80 yards long dutiable as carpeting of wool. T. D. 20008 (act of 1897). " h Unwoven wool felt commercially known as felt carpeting dutiable as carpeting of wool. T. D. 21401 ; 00 Fed. Rep., 260 (act of 1897). , , , ^ ^ H ScKjaUed "Angola carpetmg", composed of wool, grass, and cotton, held to be a two-ply ingrain. T. D. 1463 (act of 1867). M "Mats, rugs for floors, screens, covers, hassocks, bed sides, art squares, and other portions of carpets or carpeting, made wholly or in part of wool, and not specially provided for in this section, shall be suljjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets or carpeting of like character or description." Par. 394 (1909); par. 382(1897); par. 296(1894); par. 408(1890). „. ^ ^^ , . ,,o«x w So-called French moquetto carpeting foimd to be the same as Axminster. T. D. 2638 (act of 1875). w Tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvet carpet claimed dutiable as wool carpet. Overruled because provided for by name. T. D. 6060 (act of 1883). ^ . . . w Mosaic velvet carpeting, or flgtiied or plain velvet carpethig, composed of mohair, jute, or cotton, dutiable as velvet carpeting and not as Toumay velvet carpet. T. D. 13803 (act of 1890). »» A certain so-called Dutch wool carpet found to be in fact Venetian chain carpet. T. D. 9632 (act of 1883). »« A certain carpet woven in one solid color, not like any of the enumerated carpets held to be dutiable as wool carpet. T. D. 4921 (act of 1875). ^ . ^. . , „ -r. ,««.«, . ,.«««v » 6 Carpeting composed of horsehair, cotton, jute, and flax, hair chief value. T. D. 13673 (act of 1890). » c " Drannick" carpet dutiable as wool carpet. T. D. 13806 (act of 1890). »d Japanese rugs or carpets composed of cows' hair, hemp or jute, and cotton. T. D. 11542 (act of 1890). » « Mats compwed of cotton, jute, and wool, wool chief value. T. D. 14560 (act of 1890). » / Pieces of wool carpeting with woolen lining. T„ D. 15721 (act of 1890). » g Rugs made of woo!. T. D. 14732 (act of 1890). »* A so^alled " durrie'* carpet as wool carpet. T, D. 18817. . .^.^.^ , « The commercial distinction between a carpet woven whole and a rug U that the former covers entire floor, but the latter does not. T. D. 9174 (act of 1883). Bo So^alled Turkish nigs 105 to 208 square feet held to be carpets woven whole. T. D. 2577 (act of 1872). «6 A seamless carpet made in accordance with drawings and specifications to fit a particular room held to be a carpet woven whole. T. D. 10926 (act ot 1883). n The following have been held to be wool cloth: ,« ^ ,,„.„, . a a Cottonettes of cotton and wool, cotton predominating in quantity, wool In value. T. D. 11853 (act a b Flannel lawn-tennis shirthig; T. D. 12960 (act of 1890). " e A heavy felted woolen cloth. T. D. 12330 (act of 1890). «cl House flannel, so called. T. D. 12238 (act of 1890). ,,,.., ^ , ,^ » « Mackintosh cloth, a woolen cloth and a woolen and cotton cloth joined together with a preparation Of India rubber, wool chief value. T. D. 11699 (act of 1890). ^ t> ,nmv. / *.looo^ a / Shirtings composed of wool, silk, and cotton, wool chief value. T. D. 10726 (act of 1883). a <; Tennis-ball cloth. T. D. 17493 (act of 1894). , ..i. , v .^ * u ^ *, u, a» Under the act of 1883 a cloth composed of cotton, silk, and wool, silk value, was held to be dutiable t8 a nonenumerated manufactured article. (135 U. 8., 237.) ,,..,. ^ . . . a i So-called cotton skirting, a mercerized colored cotton cloth covered with polka dots composed of goat hair. T. D. 22082; 113 Fed. Rep., 817 (act of 1897). . ^ ., . , a The hair of the Cashmere goat, sometimes called Chhia brown cashmere wool, dutiable as second-class WOOL T.D. 23179 (act of 1897). , ^. , , ^ *• v., . * , , ^ « Chenille yam, composed of wool and cotton, wool chief value, dutiable as manufacture of wool and not as manufacture of fur. T. D. 17261 (act of 1894). tt ^ *v * *,oo, ^iono a Under the acts of 1890 and 1894 cloaks were provided for by name. Under the acts of 1897 and 1909 they are covered by the provision for wearing apparel of every description. » a Cloaks of fur, lined with wool, or vice versa, fur chief value, held dutiable as wool wearing appareL T. D. 17952 (act of 1894); 19249 (act of 1897). Note new provision m par. 439, act of 1909. » b Wool cloaks, beaded. T. D. 17941 (act of 1894). a a Chuiese trousers. T. D. 13674 (act of 1890). a 6 Boys' suits. T. D. 10351 (act of 1883). a The provision by name for coml>ed wool Is found only in the act of 1909. aC!ravenettecloth Is a wool cloth subjected to a process which renders it practically waterproof and is used principally for making waterproof coats for men and women. It was classified as woolen cloth, but claimed to be dutiable as waterproof cloth, n. s. p. f.jpar. 369, act of 1890; par 273, act of 1894. The Board of General Appraisers susteined the assessment hi T. D. 13792; 16066; 16303 (act of 1890), but were over- ruled by the courts In T. D. 25139; 26124; 26170 (act of 1890). The provisions for waterproof cloth hi the acts of 1890 and 1894 were as follows: Valued at 25 cents or less per square yard. 1890, 40 per cent; 1894, 25 per cent. Valued above 25 cents per square yard, 1890, 15 cents per square yard and 30 per cent; 1894, Under the acts of 1897 and 1909 the provision for waterproof cloth is limited to such as is composed ol ootloa or other vegetable fiber, whether oompoeed in part of India rubbw or otherwise T. D. 23402 (act of « T. D. 12925 (act of 1890) T. D. 16846 (act of 1894). Under the acts of 1897 and 1909 i HnriAr the act of 1909 raincoat material composed of cotton, wool, and rubber, rubber chief value, haa i^rSd to^ dutSble as^manufacture of hidia rubber. T. D. 31708. The Government has appealed O^ D 318^), holdln|X?theTaterlal is a cloth composed hi part of wool and that this is more speclflo than manufactures of Indiarubber U.S. p. f. ^ , ^. , , ^ -^ j »The followmg articles have been held to be dutiable as embroideries: BaDjidjuns, Turkish portieres. T.D. 24999 (act of 1897). » 6 Mottoes of papet , celluloid, ete., paper chief value, embroidered with wool. a c A woven woolen fabric embroidered with metal threads for women's hats. a d Wearing apparel embroidered with wool. T. D. 22954 (act of 1897). a Wool fascinators are dutiable as knit wearmg apparel and not as shawls. n v»it parnetin? is nrovlded for by name In the acts of 1890 and 1894. Ui u"s outiaSe i cli?e?iS^ of wool. T. D. 1011 (act of 1867); 12249 (act of 1890); 20008; 21401; 99 Fed. Rep., ^iS^rteilf"lappmg." T. D. 17167 (act of 1894). aVhe following have beeai held to be felts not woven: a a Com plasters. T.D. 12665; 17930 (act of 1890). M c Feltenot^woven, used for polishmg glass, composed principally of cow hair, calf hair, and goat hair. '^M?S^tiSt-o^an covers, composed of unwoven felt printed with a fancy pattern. T.D. 21402 (act of 1897). a Mohau- flocks, as flocks. T. D. 13002 (act of 1890). ai Beaded cloth fringes. T. D. 17189 (act of 1890). . . . ^ •« ^ • *• M iJnder the acts of 1890, 1894, and 1897 house or cabmet furniture of wood was a more specific designation than manufactures of wool not specially provided for, and furniture of wood and wool tepestry, whether or not wool was chief value, was dutiable as furniture of wood. Under the act of 1909 such furmture must be whoUy or m chief value of wood. T.D. 29645; 30211; 30504 (act of 1897). m tm on^o / «* «f i «»n^ a a Goat hau- selected and bunched for brush makers' use, 24 cents per pound. T. D. 13942 (act of 1890). » 6 Goat hair selected, scoured, bleached, and bunched for brush makers' use, 36 cents per pound. T. D, *» ElStic^goruig'for shoes, composed of worsted, cotton, and India rubber, as gorings and not as india- rubber fabrics. 38Fed. Rep. 97; 144 U.S. 603 (act of 1883). K Hats of wool were provided for by name under the acts of 1890 and 1894. The following articles have been held to be dutiable as hats: w o Alpaca hats, trimmed. T. D. 137S3 (act of 1890). a 6 Argyle hats (ladies' quilted Alpme hats). T. D. 12942 (act of 1890). a s Camel's-hah- hats. T. D. 18673 (act of 1894). a d Felted wool hats, varnished. T. D. 10565 (act of 1883). a « Miners' hats of wool and resm, wool chief value. T. D. 13380 (act of 1890). a* The following articles of headwear have been held to be dutiable as wool wearmg apparel: ai a Felt caps. T. D . 10860 (act of 1890). ai 6 Fez caps. T. D. 12025 (act of 1890); 16655 (act of 1894). al e Hats of hair and straw. T. D. 12938 (act of 1890). a| d Oxford caps or mortar boards. T. D. 21026 (act of 1897). at e Pith helmets covered with mohair. T. D. 14386 (act of 1890). aj / Scotch caps. T. D. 6718 (act of 1883); 10961 (act of 1890); 20620 (act of 1894). «7J a Wool caps. T. D. 12653 (act of 1890). , , ._..,/ ««^x ^ a The act of 1890 had a provision for articles of wearing apparel of every description (par. 396) and one for knit fabrics (par. 392). Considerable litigation resulted from the claims of importers that knit hosiery should be assessed under par. 392 and not under par. 396. The act of 1894 provided for wool knit wearmg apparel, and the acts of 1897 and 1909 for knitted articles of every description. Wool knit hosiery wasthe subject of the foUowmg decisions: T. D. 10335 (act of 1883); 13888 (act of 1890); 16310; 16657 (act of 1894); 26 Fed. Rep. 303 (act of 1875); 46 Fed. Rep. 510; 147 U. S. 494 (act of 1890). „, ^ ,,«,,, ^ , ,ooax. a Ice wool squares made of Angora wool, on knittmg machmes, as shawls. T. D. 14251 (act of 1890), 90 Fed. Rep., 796 (act of 1894). « Italian cloth. T. D. 19252; 94 Fed. Rep., 641 (act of 1894). ^ ^ ^ _. • * «i Jackets are provided for by name m the acts of 1890 and 1894, but are covered by the provision for wearing apparel of every description in the acts of 1897 and 1909. . .^ .. .„ „ ^ a a &iit fabrics cover piece goods only. T. D. 10817; 13888 (act of 1890); 17818 (act of 1894); 46 Fed. Rep., 510 (act of 1890). a b Baby-carriage robes as wool knit fabrics. T. D. 16856 (act of 1894). a c Hosiery as wool knit fabrics. T.D. 10736 (act of 1890). , ^ , . -^ j* a Knit wearing apparel held to mclude articles fashioned by knittmg and such as are cut from a knitted fobric and sewn. T. D. 16537 (act of 1894). The following articles have been held to be knit wearmg apparel: « a Fascinators. T. D. 16846 (act of 1894). a b Gloves, cashmere. T. D. 10335 (act of 1883); 16537 (act of 1894). « c Hosiery and underwear. T. D. 10335 (act of 1883); 16310; 16657 (act of 1894). « d Knit underwear composed of wool and silk, and of cotton, wool, and silk. T. D. 10552 (act of 188S). a e Knit wearing apparel whether outside garments or not. T.D. 16321 (act of 1894). « / Ladles' vests of wool and silk. T.D. 10572 (act of 1883). a Scoteh "bonnets." 33 Fed. Rep., 617 (act of 1883). a * Scoteh caps, crocheted. T. D. 20620 (act of 1894). a i Tam O'Shanter caps. T.D. 16954; 16958; 20922 (act of 1894). ♦* o ChantlU V laces composed of slDc and mohah, silk chief value, as wool lace. T. D. 14628 (act of 1890). a 6 Horsehair and cotton laces, hair chief value. T. D. 17247 (act of 1894). a c Silk and mohair laces, silk chief value. 87 Fed Rep., 193 (act of 1890). a d Wool lace. T. D. 25665 (abstract 3103) (act of 1897). a Tb growth on Mocha sheepskms held to be not wool. T.D. 21739; 28190; 28195; 28210 (suite 423»-40); 28248 (act of 1897). « a Alpaca noils as noils. T. D. 12680 (act of 1890). a 6 Carded wool noils from improved Turkish wool of merino blood, scoured, as scoured wool, class 1. T. D. 10495 (act of 1883). a c Chmese camels' hair noils as noils. T. D. 15232; 17207; 75 Fed. Rep., 834 (act of 1890). *»d Noils as wool. T. D. 379; 961 (act of 1867). a o A woolen cloak Imed with fur. fur chief value. T. D. 19249 (act of 1897). a 6 A woolen overcoat lined with fur, fur chief value. T. D. 31811 (act of 1909). a c Fur-lined wool garments. T. D. 17282; 17283; 17952; (act of 1894). The act of 1909 has anew pro- vision for "articles of wearing apparel of every description, partly or wholly manufactured, composed of or of which fur Is the component material of chief value." (par. 439.) This specific provision covers gar- 292 REPOKT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDUtiE K, BEFORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 293 i w. •1 meats which underprevkms acts were held to be dutiable under the general provision for wearing apparel UQ U.1I3 wool SCIiGUiUo* «o Certain Panderma wool held to be third class. T. D. 24082 (act of 1897). « Panderma wool, represented by standard sample No. 146, held to befirstdass. T. D 25424 (actof 1897) «a Piano and table covers as manufactures of wool unless embroidered. T. D. 12365' 15545 (act of 1«90) «»i> Table covers composed of wool, cotton, and metal, cotton chief value. T. D. 10672 (act of 1883). «• The following articles have l>een held to be dutiable as pile fabrics: >«a So-called "cream lambskins." T. D. 12970 (act of 1890). •«> Certain dress goods oommerolaUy know as dross goods and also as pile fabrics. V. D. 14068 (act of 1890). «« Lap robes woven with a looped surface, loops cut. T. D. 11198 (act of 1890) Md Moquette fabric of much lighter weight than carpeting. T. D. 11345 (act of 1890). Me Certiiin upholstery cloth. T. D. 12142 (act of 1890). "/ Slipper patterns resembling Brussels carpet. T. D. 10895 (act of 1890) : 24908 (act of 1897) . Mo Plushes composed of goat haJr, silk, and cotton, goat hair chief value, as manufacture ol goat hair and not as manufacture of silk. T. D. 10677 (act of 1883); 23 Fed. Cas., 1159 (act of 1842). !1 «^?^®^ composed of cotton, worsted, and silk worsted chief value. T. D. 11073 (act of 1883). aa "The word 'rags' has no established and uniform commercial designation, but would seem to cover any old torn pieces, smaU or large, of any woven fabric which has subserved one purpose and comes into the market as second-hand material." T. D. 28202 (act of 1897). Ma Portions of material clipped from the piece in the course of making garments held to be rags rather than waste. T. D. 21595; 25317; 26394; 26407 (act of 1897). -sa t « / '? Y,*^?"^ ®®^^° ^^^ indiscriminately mixed. T. D. 311 (act of 1867); 3535; 4098 (act of 1876); 24588 (act of 1897). M Ribbons made of wool are first provided for by name in the act of 1909. They were covered in the previous acts by the provision for galloons and trimmings. T. D. 2C049; 28329 (act of 1897). M Ring waste and white ring waste. T. D. 10728; 10752 (act of 1883). » The practice of including the selvage in the measurement of rugs was disputed by the importers, but decided m favor of the Government in T. D. 23470; 25384; 25878; 26041 (suit 3288); 26187 (act of 1897), and has been embodied in the act of 1900 in a provision to paragraph 391, " That in the measorement of all mats, rugs, carpet^s, and similar articles, of whatever material composed, the selvage, if any, shall be included.*' Rugs made as rugs distiimilshable as such. 157 U. S., 155 (act of 1883). Chinese goatskins, tanned with the hair on. not dutiable as wool rugs. 152 U. S., 681 (act of 1883) f ^/^JSS? ^ ^^' ^^*^ woolen lining and border, fUr chief value, not dutiable as wool rug. T. D. 24301 (act Ol 1897). M Cotton rugs made as rugs and not made up from carpeting, held dutiable as manufactures of cotton, n. 8. p. f. T. D. 24857 (act of 1897). * m"^.^^?^ ^^f composed of jute, hemp, or ramie and wool, with a single cut pile face, as oriental rugs. Jl . JU. 1^394 (act of 1894). Mft SUk oriental rugs. T. D. 18014 (act of 1894). M "Shawls, being articles worn upon the person, are nnquestionably wearing apparel." T, D. 22674 (act of 1897). Shawls have been the subject of the following decisions: T. D. 1535 (act of 1867); 2821: 2838: 3104- 5117- 6256 (act of 1875); 59^; 91S0(actof 1883); 12247; 13878; 14251; 15021:15587; 17587 (act of 1890); 16 Fed'. Cas.! 600 (act of 184G); 49 Fed. Rep., 826; 53 Fed. Rep.. 1011 (act of 1890); 16 How., 251 (act of 1846). '» Wool or worsted shawls embroidered with silk, held not to be wool embroideries. T. D. 2821 (act ol 1875); 12247; 13878; 17587; 49 Fed. Rep., 826; 53 Fed. Rep., 1011 (act of 1890). •o Alum-tanned sheepskins, wool thereon as class 2 wool. T. D. 13804 (act of 1890). •ft Angora goat skins, wool thereon as class 2 wool. T. D. 11385 (act of 1890). As raw fur akins free. T. D. 15699 (act of 1890). •c Australian sheepskins, as raw fur skins free. T. D. 31318 (act of 1897), «M Cabretta skins, the growth thereon as wool. T. D. 36487; 27191; 27258; 27649 (abstracts 13004)- 28538- 28370; 124 Fed. Rep., 1000 (act of 1897). 140 Fed. Rep., 116; 159 Fed. Rep., 189. ^ ' •« Cape sheepskins, growth thereon held to be wool. T. D. 10492 (act of 1883): 11357 (act of 1890); 26404: 28632; 29119 (abstract 19295), 29138; 31543 (abstract 25428) (act of 1897). If imported prior to July 15, 1910 as class 1 wool, according to standard sample 137. Subsequent to July 15, 1910, as class 3 wool accordinie to standard sample 399 B. Note T. D. 30786. ^ •/ Dressed sheepskins as manufacture of fur, 35 per cent. T. D. 31680 (act of 1909). «>ir Hawaiian sheepskins, the wool thereon dutiable. T. D. 3414 (act of 1875). «» Mocha sheepskins, under the act of 1897. T. D. 25499 (abstracts 2365 and 2401); 26404; the growth thereon as class 3 wool T. D. 27190; 27279; as raw skins free 28190; 28195; 28210 (suits 4239/40); 28248. •oi Partly tanned sheepkins, as skins dressed and finished. T. D. 8502 (act of 1883). •i Shearlings, so-called, containing from IJ to 2 pounds of wool, the wool thereon dutiable. T. D. 10208 (act of 1883). »* Rules for finding weight of wool on sheepskins. T. D. 1017; 1100; 1219; 1666; 22702. « Extracts cheviots as shoddy. T. D. 18151 (act of 1894). « Talmas were enumerated in the acts of 1890 and 1894. Covered by the provisions for wearine annarel of every description in the acta of 1897 and 1909. « The act of 1894 contained a provision for knit wearing apparel, which covered these goods T. D. 10864: 16958; 20922. •* Tennis balls of rubber and wool, rubber chief value, under the act of 1883 were dutiable as manufac- tures of wool. T. D. 10511. In each of the succeeding acts manufactures in chief value of rubber is a more specific provision than manufactures of wool. n. s. p. f. T. D. 20822 (act of 1894): 21673; 22300; 22360 (act of 1897). «a Broken tops dutiable as tope. T. D. I(i086; 18737 (act of 1894); 159 U. S , 500 (act of 1883). «fe Swatches of scoured, combed and dyed Angora goat hair adapted for use In making dolls' wigs as tons. T. D. 17437 (act of 1894). o i~- •c Tops in balls, as manufactures of wool, n. s. p. f. T. D. 16085 (act of 1894). *^«X**P* ^°™ "P *°^° fragments as manufactures of wool, n. s. p. f. 46 Fed. Rep., 461 (act of 1883). •• The act of 1890 contained a provision for rugs (paragraph 408) and it was claimed that traveling ruga were included, i^e 53 Fed. Rep., 1008 (act of 1883). In the acta of 1894, 1897 and 1909 the words "for Doors were added. «7a Wool knit undershirts and drawers as wo<^ wearing apparel under the act of 1890 and as knit wool weM-mg apparel under the act of 1894. T. D. 13888 (act of 1890); 16657 (act of 1894); 46 Fed. Rep., 510; 147 «6 Wool and silk imderwear, silk chief value, as silk wearing apparel. T. D. 14811 (act of 1890) "Veils held to be wearing apparel. T. D. 12342; 14714; 15866; 61 Fed. Rep., 52; 66 Fed. Rep., 724 (act •• Wool waste and cotton waste mixed as wool waste. T. D. 13217 (act of 1880); 21409 (act of 1897); 66 '4 9 L^^tjroro«^n%Sng?r LthStoolJu ?^;^^fp'Xloi 1846, 16 Jed. Casjl2 "'nfsweepings from mills containing not over 1 per cent wool, not wool waste, but tree as paper stock. '^•J?.n?}hi^i°of^th?*words 'wearing apparel' Congress intended to make the purpose, adaptetion and o^ of Ml artSte Sid LTTte ooSSLS^signatioSfthe test of its dutiable description." 1^ Fed. Cas., *^h?^foUowfS"articles have been held to be wool we^ oruioo /o^f «f 1fia7^ 4i Automobae^at of fur, Uned with a woolen fabric, fur cluef value. T. D. 25629 (act of 1897). m ca"t^s"^f wwCb^aded. ' T. D. 17941 (act of 1894) ne chjWs' blouse ornamented with braid, T. D. 12954 (act of 1890). T.D. T.D. T. D. "dcwlr^ sES'SFSorcom^^^^^^^ the soles of wood fiber, animal ^^"ifoffiWwfeoth.-'r.Dao^^^^^^ , , , ^ ., , nf ESbroiderTw^rSg apparel whoUy or in part of wool, as wearing apparel and not as embroidered articles. T. D. 22893 (act of 1897). , ^ ^ , , m t^ t«e.iA/'o«f«fi8ai^ no Fascinators, as wearing apparel and not as sbawls. T D. 1^ (act of 1894). nh Felt caps, as wearing apparel, not as hats. J v?- j^ (^^ of 1890) ni Fez caps, as wearing apparel, not as hats. T. D. 12025 (act of 1890), 16655 (act ol 1894), w i*ea. Kep., *^i FiVhni^ool embroidered with silk, not as shawls. T. D. 15329 (act of 1890). ,„ „ ^ _* ., \ «»HSrouI,^S^"iSs."T.D. '29449 (Ab. 20340) 29545 (Ab. 20609); 31214 (U. S. Court Customs ^^^Hai^o^f hiS'straw. T. D. 12938 (act of 1890). Win Hechima slippers in part of wool. T. D. 17501 (act of 1890). 72« Ladies' knit shuts. T. D. 12998 (act of 1890). no Miners' hats of wool and resin. T. D. 21674 ^t of 1^7). »p MuflHers as wearing apparel, not as shawls. T. D. 10864 (act of 1880;. nq Nuns' veils. T.D.I 1244 (act of 1890). «f Oxford caps. T. D. 21026 (act of 1897). ^ ,iooA^ nt Pith helmets covered with mohair. T. D. 14386 (act of 1890). m Raincoats ol wool, cotton, and rubber, cotton chief value. T. !>• 3W50 (act of 1909). « u Scotch cans, as wearing apparel, not as hats. T. D. 10961 (act of 1890). JsSwls. ?. D^ 2821 (a?t of 1875); 22674 (act of 1897); 12 Fed. Cas., 836 (act of 1832). WW Shetland veils, not as shawls. T. D. 13979 (act of 1890). rioo^v m -n ~v.~, nx Tennis jackets of cotton and wool, cotton ch^ef value. lOOF^. Rep., ^„ (f * «/ /f 7)^;^: ?JtSbv wy Undershirts, drawers, hosiery, and gloves. T. D. 13888; 46 Fed. Rep., 510; 147 U. S., 494 (act of 1890J. nz Waterproof garments. T. D. 10389 (act of 1883). oo«7^ /onf «f 1fi07^ w>» Wearmg apparel of cotton and wool, cotton chief v^ue. T-D. 22674 (^pf 1897). wfi Wool and sUk wearing apparel, wool chief value. T. D J^12 (act pj lo9p;- n^ Wool and silk wearing apparel, silk chief value. T. D. 20993 (act of 1897). '•^P Wool caps axj not hats. T. D. 12653 (act of 1890). ,^.„ , ^ ,^n«.,^ n«Woolen?amentslined with fur. T.b.l7282; 17283 (act of 1894); 19249 (act of 1897). Woo "Clown sets" and other imiforms for children held to be toys and not wool wearing apparel. ^S'nlte oFhS^hSi iTt^woJfwe^ apparel under the act of 1897; by similitude, as straw hats. OQAQo 30226 » vfebbing of wool, cotton and India rubber, India rubber chief value, as wool clastic webbing. ^^f?The^diviS of wools for duty purposes into three classes accordmg to the character of the fleece and the use to which applied was first introduced into the act of March 2, 1867, wherem it was provided t^ " All wools, hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals, as aforesaid, shall be divided, for the purpose ol fixing the duties to be charged thereon, into three classes, to wit: „^i„ ^# ,««„•«« Class 1.— Clothing, u'ooZ.— That is to sav, merino, mestiza, metz. or metis wools, or otner wools of mermo blood, immediate or remote; down clothing wools, and wools of like character with any of the preceding, including such as have been heretofore usually imported into the Umted States from Buenos Aires, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia. Great Britain, Canada, and elsewhere, and also mcludmg all wools not hereinafter described or designated in classes two and three. , . ^ , . , Class 2.— Combing wools.— ThAt is to say, Leicester, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, down combing wools, or other like combing wools of English blood, and usually known by the terms herein used, and also aU hair of tlie alpaca, goat, and other like animals. ^ ^ , . ^. c ^^^ x -^ n-.-^«„« Class 3.— Carpet wools and other similar wools.— Such as Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere.' The acts of 1883 and 1890 contained the identical provision for class 1 wools. In the acts of 1897 and 1909 the provision was somewhat enlarged, as follows: . »., j . "Class one, that is to say, merino, mestiza, metz, or metis wools, or other wools of mermo blood, imme- diate or remote. Down clothing wools, and wools of like character with any of the preceding, mcludmg Bagdad wool, China lamb's wool, Castei Branco, Adrianople skin wool or butcher's wool, and such as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Buenos Aires, New Zealand, Aus- tralia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great Britain, Canada, Egypt, Morocco, and elsewhere, and aU wools not hereinafter included in classes two and three." . „ . . j -xt. j_i The act of July 14, 1832, provided that if any unported wool "shall be fine wool mixed with dirt or other material, and thus reduced in value to 8 cents per poimdj or under, the appraisers shall appraise saiii wool at such price as in their opinion it would have cost had it not been so mixed, and a duty thereon shall be charged iu conformity with such appraisal." . jj j v • A similar provision was con tamed in the succeeding tariff acts and other -nrovisions were added l^vmg tot their object the prevention of practices by which the payment of the proper duty might be evaded. These provisions are contained m paragraph 368 of the act of 1909, which is as follows: " The duty upep without any cleans- ing; that is, in their natural condition. Washed wools shall be considered such as have been washed with water only on the sheep's back, or on the skto." ( Par. 367, act of 1909.) The provision that the duty on washed wool shall T)e twice the amount of unwashed means double the rate and not a computation of the amount of duty on the weight of the unwashed wool and then double this amount. (9 Fed. Cas., 573; R. 8., sec. 2504.) w " Wools of the first and second classes washed to any other manner than on the sheep's back or on the skto shall be considered as scoured wool." (Par. 367, act of 1909.) ^ The provision for second-class wool remained the same to the acts of 1883, 1890, 1897, and 1909, except that in the last two acts hair of the camel was added and goat's hair was limited to Angora goat's ha&. " Wool picktogs" from Canada as second class. T. D. 136 (act of 1867). » The provision for thh-d-class wool was unchanged to the act of 1883; to the acts of 1S90, 1897, and 1909 Russian camel's hair was added and the further provision that: "Whenever wools of class 3 shall have been improved by the admixture of mertoo or English blood from their present character as represented ^ the standard samples now or hereafter to be deposited to the prtocipal customhouses of the United States, such improved wools shall be classified for duty either as class 1 or as class 2, as the case may be." Karkouk wool as third class. T. D. 26261 (abstract 1222) (act of 1897). Marwar wool as third class. T. D. 26164 (abstract 5200) (act of 1897). Quality and not place of orlgto of wool governs classification. 116 Fed. Rep. 99 (act of 1897). Wool classified according to blood, regardless of coarseness, fineness, etc. T. D. 361 (act of 1867). In the phrase "wools of merino blood. Immediate or remote," "remote" is limited to me^n within the limits of merino blood requisite to characterize the wool as possesstog merino qualities and adding to the value. 42 Fed. Rep. 668 (act of 1883). Wool, remotely of mertoo blood, from the Island of Curacao, held to be class 1 wool. T. D. 21345 (act 011897). Lekjester wool, irrespective of country of origin. Is dutiable as class 2 wool. T. D. 26606 (act of 1897). w Under the act of 1890 wools on the skto paid the same rate as other wools. •o Wool and flax fabrics, flax chief value, were decided to be dutiable as flax fabrics. T. D. 25258, 25431, 27897, 27921 J 28105, 28516, 28588, 28648 (act of 1897), 31624 (abstract 25308) (act of 1909). The provisions for flax fabrics are as follows: Act of 1890: If containing over 100 threads per squaw Inch, 35 percent; If oontalntog not over 100 threads per square inch, 50 per cent. Act of 1894: All manufactures of flax, 35 per cent. Act of 1897: Weighing 4^ ounces or more per square yard, oontalntog not over 60 threads to square Inch, li cents per square yard+30 per cent; contatatog over 60 but not over 120 threads to square inch, 2f centa per square yard4-30 per cent; contatotogover 120 threads but not over 180 to square inch, 6 cents per square yard+30 per cent; containing over 180 threads to square inch, 9 cents per square yard+30 per cent. None Of the foregotog shall pay less than 60 per cent. Weightog less than 4 J ounces per square yard, oontalntog over 100 threads to square inch, 35 per cent; oontaintag not over 100 threads to square inch, 45 per cent. Act of 1909: Simflar to acl of 1897, except that provision for fabrics weightog less than 4 J ounces per square yard is limited to plain woven fabrics, and those containtog not over 100 threads to square toch pay 30 per cent instead of 46 per cent. '^ Prior to the act of 1890 manufactures of wool and manufactures of worsted were dutiable at different rates. (144U.S. 1.) The foUowtog articles were held to be manufactures of worsted: Cloths known as "diagonals," "cork- ■crews," "fancy weaves," etc. 30 Fed. Rep. 425; 41 Fed. Rep. 921; 137 U. S. 95 (act of 1883). Cotton canvas embroidered with worsted. 38 Fed. Rep. 95 (act of 1883). Astrakhans. T.D. 11678 (act of 1883). Moreens. T.D. 11218 (act of 1883). Worsted dress goods. 169 U. S. 209 (act of 1894). T. D. 11086 (act ol 1890); 15335 (act of 1894). Act of May 9, 1890: "Beit enacted hp (he Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of A merieti in Congress asseml>led. That the Secretary of the Treasury be, and he hereby is, authorized and directed to classify as woolen cloths all Imports of worsted cloth, whether known under the name of worsted cloth or under the names of worsteds, or diagonals, or otherwise." Promulgated In T. D. 10020. "Worsted ooattogs'' and "oottoa backed worsteds^' under the act of 1883. (39JPed. Rep. 190.) ..I «l Ooftt-haif yam from the hair of the common goat as wool yam. T. D. 31624 (abstract K37p) (act of 1 Jw^ SoS led c^t yarn, composed of wool waste, cows' hair etc. , as wool yarn. T. D. 323 (act of 1867). *^<'ai,,^nt ovS 40 (ints per iwund, 33 cents -per pound and 50 per cent; valued over 40 cents and not orerl^^li&P^^d^^^^Pomid and^50 per cent; valued over 70 cents per pound, 44 cents ^^e'lfiS^Sj^noTprovided for by name to the acts of 1897 and 1909. Dutiable as carpeting of wool. S vSKt^ver 70 ^nte per poundf 11 cents per square yard and 50 per cent; valued ovw 70 cents per ^^otton'^JSS^'eJ^iyJxctod^^^^^ '^iP^iT.^PJi.Pn^f ?Sq^7^/ D*^^?^ ^^ ^^ ffTanh 381 but are dutiable as manufactures of cotton^ paragraph 322, act of 1897. T. D. 24857. ^^vS)l'baidings are^^ provided for by name to eicfier the acts of 1890 or 1894, but are generaUy of the same character as some of fhe goods covered by paragraphs 398 and 286, respectively. ^MS^tSSof wool beadid are not provided for by name in the act o(l894. If "known commer- ciTuvMlSSS beaded or jet trimmtogs or ornaments," covered by paragraph 354 at 35 per cent. U not ^kJown, w)vered by pariigraph 283, at 40 per cent if valued not over 50 cents per pound; at 60 per cent if ^i^SinuhtS^re of wSo^'Cded are not provided for by name to the act of 1890. Covered by paragraph ^^l UnderThe act^of^89?theprovision was as foUows: Valued not over 30 cents per pound, 25 per cent; valued over 30 cents and not over 40 cents per pound, 30 per cent; valued over 40 cents per pound, 35 per **w Under the act of 1890 the provision was as follows: Valued not over 30 cents per pound, 16i cents oound and 30 per cent; valued over 30 cents and not over 40 cents per pound, 22 cents per pound and 35 percent- valued over 40 cents and not over 60 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent; valued over 50 cents per pound, 38i cents per pound and 40 per cent. , ^ ^ „„ 4. ^ « w In the act of 1894 the line of division was 50 cents per pound; those valued not over 50 cents were duti- able at 40 per cent; those valued over 50 cents, at 60 pr cent. x.««-4.# M Tournay velvet carpets being specially provided for held not to be covered by paragraph 297, act or 1894. which postponed the takmg effect of the act on "manufactures of wool" untU January 1, 1895. 71 Fed! Rep. 513. Daghestan mgs held to be dutiable at same rate as Tournay velvet carpets. 48 Fed. Rep., M In the act of 1894 the duty on wool yams was 30 per cent if valued not over 40 cents per pound, and 40 per cent if valued over 40 cents per poimd. , . ^ ^ ., ,« ^ r/. * »«Valued at less than $1.50 per pound, 45 per cent; valued at above $1.50 per pound, 50 per cent. •• Valued not over 60 cents per pound, 40 per cent; valued over 50 cents per pound, 50 per cent. •• Wool edgings are not mentioned by name to the acts of 1890 or 1894, but were dutiable as laces under paragraphs 398 and 286, respectively. j , xv * # lon^ -.a ^1 "The provision "all articles embroidered by hand or machmery" is not found to the acts of 1890 ana 1894 M Valued not over 40 cents per pound, 35 per cent; valued over 40 cents per poimd, 40 per cent. w Flouncmgs were not separately provided for to the acts of 1890 and 1894, which, however, contatoed a nrovision for dress trimmmgs. Silk and mohair flounctog. T. D. 18843 (ac^t of 1890.) . ^ ^ 100 Men's cashmere gloves, cut and fashioned from a knit fabric, as kmt weanng apparel and not as wool wearmg apparel n. s. p. f. T. D. 10335 (act of 1883); 16537 (act of 1894). ^ , „ *^ * # "I The acts of 1890 and 1894 contatoed no provision for msertings, but these goods assttnilated to some of the articles enumerated to pars. 398 and 286, respectively. ^ .^ 4. i« Valued not over 40 cents per pound, 35 per cent; valued over 40 cents per pound, 40 per cent. «a Spangled manufactures of wool were not provided for by name to the acts of 1890 and 1894, but were mostly such articles or fabrics as were covered by pars. 398 and 286, respectively. iM Under the act of 1890 the provision for buntmg was as follows: Weighmg not over 4 ounces to the square yard, 12 cents per square yard and 60 per cent; weightog over 4 ounces to the square yard, 44 cents per pound and 50 jier cent. ,,.^ ^ij nn *. x, 4. „..«. *io5*valued not over 30 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent; valued over 30 cents but not over 40 cents per pound, 38J cents per pound and 40 per cent; valued over 40 cents per pound, 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. . ^„, , . io« In the act of 1890 the duty on wool yams was: Valued not over 30 cents per pound, 27* cents per pound and 35 per cent; valued over 30 cents but not over 40 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 36 per cent; valued over 40 cents per pound, 38i cents per pound and 40 per cent. ,^. 4. ,. i« Valued not over 30 cents per pound, lt>i cents per pound and 30 per cent; valued over 30 cents but not over 40 cents per pound, 22 cents per pound and 35 per cent; valued over 40 cents but not over 60 cents per pound, 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent; valued over 50 cents per pound and weighmg not over 4 ounces per square yard, 12 cents per square yard and 60 per cent; valued over 50 cents per pound and weighmg over 4 ounces per square yard, 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. . „ 1 ». "» Knit wearmg apparel, such as undershirts, drawers, hosiery, gloves, etc., made up whoUy or to part on knitting machmes or frames, comiwsed whoUy or to part of wool, worsted, etc., dutiable as weanng apparel and not as knit fabrics. T. D. 13888 (act of 1890). .... ,« . j 108 Under the act of 1890, third-class wool was dutiable at 32 per cent if valued not over 13 cents per pound; at 50 per cent if valued over 13 cents per pound. . ■, . . ,.1 « »")o Ramcoats to part of wool (wool, cotton and robber, cotton chief value), held to be dutiable as "wear- ing apparel to part of wool" and not as "wearing apparel of which cotton is the component material of ^ef value n. s. p. f." T. D. 31350 (act of 1909). , , * * * 110 6 Ramcoats to part of wool, robber chief value. Held to be dutiable as "wearing ^VP^^**^ composed ♦ • • to part of wool" and not as manufactures of todia robber, n. s. p. i. T. D. 3172IL (act of 1909). 11 PART II. RAW WOOLS-SECTION 1. MARKET GRADES AND COMPARATIVE PRODUCTION COSTS. J 297 ( REDUCTION RATIO ^3^m ■ m GIRMAITT BULGAKU 25.6 23.7 AKGorriiA 414.0 UVITID STATIS 328.1 RUSSIAI IMPISB 238.8 ZIALAITDI 174.6 UVITID DSOBOHl 142.3 129.9 USUGUAT n Fi r=i Fi f=i Fi 84.3 ■ 65.01 52.01 49.0 p 41.6^ |35.0p FRAVCI BSITISH SPAUT CHIHISI AUSTRU- ITALY JSDIA UPISI EiniGAST aggaaaaa CHILI ROUMAjRIA grxeck pkksia 20.8 15.6 15.0 12.2 S£RVIA 11.1 CAITADA POSTUGAL 10.7 10.0 47.61 MEXICO ALL OTHSS COUHTRIES nouu s COMPARATIVE NUMBER OF SHEEP PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES OF THE WOBLI) 1909 THE TARIFF BOARD RAW WOOL LATEST AVAILABLE STATISTICS COMPILED MAY19U ^ ^ ** uauaiTi OF 40 mhuoi wwm or puuLKD woof Mouse Doc. No. 342 ; e2d Cong.. 2d Sms. REDUCTION RATIO 12:1 o a: ^. > DO O a O O O CO X -< "^X w ^< #. tn 3 3 > CD 0,0 o m Q."n OQ oo"o -o < N X M -v^ nftU ^•v. ^J^^ ^'l:^ ^v^^ ^^^y 3 in O 3 3 ^'^ III <9^ o o 3 3 en O pi mm ^s = i^PiHi bo c> s ig I 1.0 mm 1.5 mm 2.0 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ •bcde^ & o ?^ />>. '* ^i^. V '^. ^» «.v % tv V l^O & ?cP fp '•i C CO X T3 ^ 0(/) 5 rn O m ^A, i^^^ '' ■*«-, ^>.J^^. 6^ C !^^ -e ■A 4^ 3i o 5= ai Co CT>X ^•< '1M §' fo 1— « ro (Jl o 3 3 3 3 CT 3 I cob: CT>X ^-< OOfSI o IMPORTS OF WOOL ■T eoiyvnns asb YEAR ENDING JUNE 30. 1»10 WHH:mp* «if riiit»«i«T iiii.i.i««» ur r«»««i» •SO 7M IM TOTAL WORLD PRODUCTION 2,985.0 neuBi t WORLD PRODUCTIOlf OF WOOL BY PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES 1909 rwriiK* mrsMEHT MiLLWiia or rovvsa 0TT01IAV 718.0 131.0 BRITISH soirra AHD KAST AFRICA UR1 !• ALGERIA 33.0 GIRMi^n 25.6 ^ PERU mzico OTTOKAH SMPIRS »S CO ^ ^ i 3 i H I M S d eS 3 ^ ? S ^ 51 5 g nerai4 COMPARATIVE WOOL PRODUCTION or PRINCIPAL REGIONS OF THE WORLD 1909 BRITISH IHBUi nW ZIALAV]>(6.3, FRAVCBfS. GSRMAHY^ 2.9 PRODUCTION OF RAW WOOL IN: BELGIUK 2.3 CAlfABAi L9 nevii 6 DOMESTIC WOOL PRODUCTION BY STATES 1910 CLASS 8 PERSIA 1.6 AIX OTHER COUHTRIES GLASS 8 I / ^^^ J^ .# J" rwf NOftms F£Ti. <■:. .;o. a'.a5H,;.', MMtMl WaMt Rt WORLD »ncnoH b85.0 ▲QSTSiLLU 718.0 AMsanaA 414.0 UVITID 8TAT1S 328.1 RUSSIAV mpiRi 238.8 vxw ZEALAVB 174.6 xoreooxi 142.3 lOH OF WOOL COUNTBIES 137.1 131.0 129.9 10 84.3 11 It 65.0 52.0 OTTOMAV «iu.i*wi •» mtnmm BRITISH SOUTH ABB SAST AFRICA URUGUAY FRAHCI BRITISH IHBIA IT It It ALGERIA 33.0 GIRMAHT 25.6 BULGARU 23.7 CHILI 20.8 M KomiAinA 15.6 GRXICI 15.0 PIKSIA 12.2 ^ 47.6 PERU MEXICO ALL OTHER COUHTRIES nGTJlS 3 COMPARATIVE NUMBER OF SHEEP nr Tm PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES OF THE WORLD 1909 la 14 It 49.0 41.6 35.0 AUSTKU- HDVGAST HALT a 3 g & n SERVU 11.1 CAIADA 10.7 PORTITGAL 10.0 THE TARIFF BOARD RAW WOOL LATEST AVAILABLE COMPILED MAY19U House Doc. Ho. 342 ; 62d Cong., 2d Sou. ) ;v WOOL PEODITCTIOlSr HT THE XTinTED STATES AITO DST THE LEADnrG COMPETING COUITTRIES. The results of the inquiry conducted by the board in regard to raw wool are presented in tnree parts: First. A study of the relative conditions surrounding the produc- tion of the various leading clips falling under Classes I and II of the tariff act. Second. An investigation as to the relative shrinkages of these wools in the scouring process. Tliird. The sources and uses of the wools imported under Class III of the existing law. The United States has been producing in recent years, accordmg to generally accepted estimates, around 325,000,000 pounds of wool, consisting mainly of the ^e and medium grades, the so-called *' carpet" and ''luster" wools comprising but a comparatively small percentage of the total. These figures are believed by well-informed Eeople in the wool trade to be somewhat below the real production; ut nevertheless, the clip lacks something Uke 35 per cent of supplying the normal demands of all our mills. We do not, and at present can not, sell either wool or manufactures thereof in foreign markets to any extent. Large importations of wool, including various special grades not grown by our own people, are required to keep our looms m operation. The usual requirements of our manufacturers extend to a total of near 500,000,000 pounds of wool in the grease per annum. The leading foreign sources of supply for the grades recjuired in cloth making are the great pastoral regions of Australasia, South America, and the South African Cape; so that we first undertake to compare the general conditions surrounding production in the United States with those prevailing in the Southern Hemisphere ; such general survey being followed by a detailed analysis of comparative operating expense, at home and abroad; the whole supplemented further on by certain special reports giving details which seemed too elaborate for incorporation in the main body of this report. GRADES OF DOMESTIC WOOL. The great bulk of the wool grown in this country would, if imported, fall under Class I. There are large numbers of the English mutton sheep maintained on various farms and ranches, but, except where bred in their purity for reproductive purposes, the British types covered by Class II of the wool tariff have found their chief commer- cial use as a cross upon our most widely disseminated domestic breed, the merino, the mingling of these bloods producing lambs that are in demand for feeding purposes, and at the same time a fleece of medium wool which competes with crossbred wools grown, as shown by this report, at much less expense in South Amenca, Aus- tralia, and elsewhere. 299 800 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Before passing to a discussion of production proper it may be of interest to present a few facts as to the approximate relative per- centages of merino and crossbred wools grown at home and in the chief competing countries, with some general references to their respective uses and to the actual points of competition. It is estimated that about two-tliirds of the wool grown in the United States west of the Missouri River is ' 'fine '' or * 'fine medium." The wools produced east of the Mississippi will probably run in the aggregate around 25 per cent to 30 per cent ''fine." The figures herewith submitted have been compiled for the board by dealers specializing in home-gi*own wools. Classifying "fine medium," wliich is a grade between half-blood and "fine," as "fine," we arrive at the following conclusions. Divid- ing the country mto two sections, in the territory group, or Class A. are placed all the States, with the exception of Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri, lying west of the Mississippi Kiver. In the "fleece" group, or Class B, we put the States of Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri and all the States lying east of the Mississippi River. Fim and Jim medium wooh. Percent. Territory or Cla« A 06 Fleece or €ks8 B 23 Entire country 52 Half-blood vx>oh. Territory or Class A 22 Fleece or Class B * g Entire country ;:;.-■;;:.';;;;;:;::: i? Wools grading | and Mow. Territory or Class A 12 Fleece or Class B 69 Entire country .' 3x LEABINO FOREIGN WOOLS. In the case of the foreign wools entering our markets, roughly speaking, 75 per cent of the wools from Australia are merinos used largely for fine dress goods, broadclotlis, and fine worsteds. Tasmania ana Victoria produce the finest and best wools exported from Aus- traha; wools known for their fine working qualities, style, strength, and light condition. The Queensland, Adelaide, and Sydney wools are not so well giown or fine, nor as liglit in condition as the Vic- torian and Tasmanian. This is due mostly to the nature of the land and general climatic conditions. The remaining 25 per cent of the Australian clip consists of fine crossbreds and what are known as "comebacks,"^ produced by a mingling of merino and Lincoln bloods. These wools are liked for ladies' fine white dress goods. About 90 per cent of the wools exported from New Zealand are crossbreds and 10 per cent merinos. Of the crossbred, around 70 per cent are of a low cnaracter, 40s and 44s, and are used principally for dress goods and linings. The lower qualities, 36s and 32s, or pure Lincoln, are used mostly for luster dress goods and are at times mixed or blended with mohair. The finer grades, 46s/56s, are used and blended along with the Australian crossbreds for cream and white BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 301 I ., • dress goods. The merinos are blended and used along with the Austr^ian. Argentine wools are not generally considered as good as those of New Zealand and Australia. They lack the working qualities, although the breed has been considerably improved during the past 10 years, but the wool has not yet the finish of Colonial wools. The native Criolla, or South American wool, was or is of a wild and hairy character, and the present stock has been produced from this sheep by continued crossing with imported rams, principally from Eng- land, \yhich has had the effect of elevating the standard. At the same time the trace of the native sheep is still to be seen with the result that top-makers report that the wool as a whole does not ordi- narily work nor finish so well as the Colonial wools. Argentine wools are to a certain extent mixed judiciously with NewZeal and wools and go into dress goods or worsteds, and the finer crossbreds possibly go mto knitting wool yarns. A good proportion of the medium grades are used for men's suitings and overcoats. The proportion of grades shipped from Argentina in 1909 was 20 per cent merinos, 10 per cent fine crossbreds or comebacks, and the rest medium crossbreds and Lincolns. Montevideo wools have the same general characteristics as the Argentine, but the proportion shipped runs about 80 per cent merino and 20 per cent fine and low crossbreds. WHEEE COMPETITION CENTERS. In the domestic clip there is probably around eight to ten million pounds of what is known in the trade as "fine Montana staple" that meets the competition of the Australian 64s to 66s. Wyoming grows perhaps 10,000,000 pounds of fine staple of similar quahty to the Montana, perhaps shrinking somewhat heavier. There is a fine Oregon staple produced to the extent of around 8,000,000 pounds, and some 5,000,000 pounds of fine Idaho, which is said to rank with Australian 66s to 70s, Victorian Geelong and best Sydney wools. The Michigan ^e combing is said to meet the Sydney and Adelaide 64s. There is no appreciable quantity of wool grown m this counti-y that equals Australian 80s and finer. The Delaine wools of Ohio, Pennsylvania, ete., are claimed to be the strongest wools of merino blood raised in the world. The special competitors of our Delaines are the merino combings of Australia. The price of Delaines in this market is governed largely by the price of these Austrahan combings. The mills, however, use Delames and fine Austrahan together if making a blend. The Delaine gives strength, the Australian luster. The percentages in the blend ^^^7 ^^?^®what according to which class works out the cheaper for the mill. The most direct foreign competitor of the fine clothing Ohio and similar wools may be said at present to be the merino wools of Monte- video. These wools perhaps approximate the staple, grade, and characteristics of the fine clothing Ohios closer than any other fpreim wool. The Australian ''combings/' and sorts designated as clothings while not coming, perhaps, in such direct competition with our fine unwashed clothing wools^ accordmg to trade experts, still have a material bearing on the relative value in our market of the nne unwashed. 302 KEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. With these general statements in mind the relative costs attending the growing of these various wools in the different leading producing countries mil be taken up in detaU. VABIOUS PHASES OF THE INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED STATES. The sheep industry of the United States viewed as a whole is of two well-defined types. In the region west of the Missouri River most of the flockowners devote practically all their time, and many devote not only all of their own, but borrowed capital as well, to sheep raising. The industry in that section is usually found to exist on land which is either suitable for no other purpose or has not yet been brought under cultivation. Other animals are raised only incidentally and are, as a rule, used in connection with the sheep; and such crops as are grown are usually fed to the sheep. Since the sheep are the chief source of the owners' income, the flocks are usually large. In the region east of the Missouri, on the other hand, the flock- owner is, as a rule, a general farmer who carries on sheep raising on agricultural land, which he also uses for crops, under a system of rotation. Although the flock in this case is more or less intimatelv connected with the other farming operations, the raising of other animals and the growing of crops are independent sources of income. In this region, therefore, the flocks are usually small. The leading sheep States west of the Missouri are Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, California, Nevada, Utah, Wyominfir. Mon- tana, Idaho, Washington, and Oregon. In aU these StateTff careful study has been made of the conditions of the industry and schedules of costs have been secured from typical flocks representing the vari- ous conditions under which sheep are run. East of the Missouri, although sheep raising is seldom more than a secondary industry, there is a certain region, comprising Ohio, south- em Michigan, western Pennsylvania and western West Virginia in which it plays a much more important rdle than elsewhere. Hence, although the general conditions of the industry in the East and South and in the States of the Mississippi Valley have been studied, the securmg of detailed cost data has been confined to the region above mentioned, which is, in this connection, designated as the Ohio region. The breeds of sheep and the conditions of the industry in other sheep-raising States east of the Missouri vaiy considerably !rom those of the Ohio region. In all the States not included in the western and the Ohio distncts, the board finds that sheep are maintained prima- rUy, as a rule, for their utiHty as consumers of forage that would other- wise go largely to waste; for their fertilizing value on the fields and pastures; for the production of market lambs, and only incidentallv for their wool. The investigations were extended far enough outside the fine-wool-growing section proper to cover a sufl[icient number of cases of this kind to enable us to discuss in a comparative wav the results of the operations of those who are running sheep as a ^'gen- eral purpose" rather than as a special wool-growing proposition. Inasmuch as the bulk of our domestic production is grown under ranch conditions fairly comparable with those obtaining in the chief competing countries, we reserve discussion of eastern conditions for subsequent treatment in connection with some consideration of the MAP SHOWING DISTRICTS IN WESTERN UNITED STATES VISITED BY AGENTS OF THE TARIFF BOARD. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 803 I 4., I industry as it exists in the settled agricultural districts of Great Britain, France, and Germany. SHEEP RANCHING IN THE WESTERN STATES. The total number of sheep and lambs in the United States in 1910 was, in round numbers, 52,000,000 head. The investigation by the board covered 12 Western States: Texas, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, California, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, Nevada, Utah, Wash- ington, and Oregon, lying in what is generally known as the Rocky Mountain region. The accompanying map shows the leading centers visited by repre- sentatives of the Tariff Board to secure information regarding the sheep and goat industries in the 12 States named. Within these States are 29,558,569 head of sheep of all classes, or considerably more than one-half of the total number in the United States. The rnajority of these sheep are grazed in laree flocks, either upon the public domain or privately owned lands, \mere in general their feed consists, especially during the summer months, of the native grasses and forage plants. Throughout this region, with few exceptions, sheep are handled under the herding system, resulting in a nigh labor cost per sheep. In California a few sheep are grazed within fenced inclosures without the immediate attention of the regular herder. While the average wages paid are lowest in the Southwest, the total amount paid is very nearly the same for both sections. This is due to the rai^e conoitions, which require more men per thousand sheep in the Southwest than in the Northwest. In both sections the losses from wild animals, poisonous plants, storms, and other causes add materiall;y^ to the cost of production. In the Northwest the investment in lands, improvements, and equipment is much higher than in the Southwest. This is also true of the comparative prices paid for rental of grazing lands in each section. In handling the sheep upon these ranges, the majority of flocks are driven in the early summer months to the mountain ranges, where they are grazed until the approach of winter forces them into the lower country. In the fall as they come from the mountain ranges, ttie lambs mtended for market are taken from the flocks and sold. The remaining sheep are then grazed during the winter months upon the open desert ranges, the majority of them without receiving any artificial feed. Taking the western or Kocky Mountain region as a whole, the mini- mum cost of production by States for the flocks under consideration appears to be m New Mexico, the maximum in Idaho. Comparing the two sections from a climatic point of view, the sheep raiser m the Northwest has to meet long, severe winters with heavy snows, while m the Southwest he often experiences periods of drought, when for want of precipitation the sheep suffer both for grass and Mraier. In the Northwest few owners dare enter the winter without having sutiicient hay to feed their flocks during periods of storm and snows. In the Southwest very Httle winter feeding is done. At the present time practically every acre of grazing land in the West IS m use and somewhat overstocked, resulting m occasional neavy losses. 804 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. The majority of these lands are more adapted to the grazing of sheep than any other domestic animals, and if the lands are not oc- cupied by the sheep the areas will probably remain nonproductive siTid idle The accompanying diagram and Table A show the relative stand- ing of leading States, arranged with reference to the numbers of their sheep in the 20 years between 1890 and 1910. Of especial mterest is the rapid rise shown by several Western States. STATE3. 1890. 1900. 19ia STATES. 1 Texm* . . 2 Callfornfa. . 3 Ohkh . . 4 New Mexico, 5 Oregon. . 6 Michigan, . 7 Utah, . . 8 Montana, . 9 Colorado, . fO NewYorIc, 11 Indiana, . 12 Missouri, . 13 Wyoming. . 14 Pennsylvania 15 Wisconsin. 16 Kentucky . 17 Nevada, . 18 Arizona, . 19 Illinois, . . 20 Washington, 21 Maine, (a). 22 Tennessee, (b) 23 West Virginia, 24 Idalio, .. . • 25 Iowa, . . • 26 Virginia, . . 27 Kansas, (a) . Wyoming, . . 1 Montana, . . 2 Ohio, ... 3 New Mexico, 4 Idaho. . • . 5 Oregon, . % 6 Michigan. • • 7 California* . 8 Utah. ... 9 Missouri, . .10 Texas, . .11 Colorado, • 12* Kentucky, . 13 Indiana, • .14 Iowa, . . • 18 Nevada, * .16 Arizona, . . 17 Illinois, . . 18 Wisconsin, . 1 9 New York, . 20 West Virginia, 21 Pennsylvania, 22 Virginia, . . 23 Tennessee, (b) 24 Minnesota, . 25 South Dakota, 26 Washington, 27 (a) Among the first 27 States in 1890 only, (b) Amoug the first 27 Stales In 1890 and 1910 but not In 1900, (c) Among the first 27 only In 190Qt BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 305 Table A. — First 27 States in number of sheep and lambs in the United States for yean 1890, 1900, and 1910. De- scend- ing order. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16, 17 18, 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. State. 1890 Texas California Ohio New Mexico . . Oregon Michigan Utah Montana Colorado New York Indiana Missouri Wyoming Pennsylvania . Wisconsin Kentucky Nevada Arizona Illinois Washington. . . Maine Tennessee West Virginia. Idaho Iowa Virginia Kansas 4,752,640 4,035,120 3,943,589 3,092,736 2,929,830 2,240,841 2,055,900 1,989,845 1,783,891 1,548,420 1,278,000 1,198,200 1,017,373 945,002 809,009 805,978 700,986 698,404 688,587 673,060 542,248 511,118 508,6.54 487,357 475,816 444,563 438,313 State. New Mexico . Montana Wyoming Ohio Idaho Oregon Texas Utah Colorado California Michigan Arizona New York... Pennsylvania Washington.. Wisconsin Indiana Nevada Illinois Iowa Missouri , Kentucky West Virginia Minnesota South Dakota Virginia North Dakota 1900 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, o "t 2, 2, h 1, 973,439 884, 179 840,190 839,690 658,662 446,695 416,721 370,983 185,327 001,501 389,073 024,430 846,165 814,322 790,217 744,656 677,905 657,773 637,719 619,476 597,619 549,832 426,814 419,218 381,882 376,918 374, 110 State. Wyoming Montana Ohio New Mexico . . Idaho Oregon Michigan California Utah Missouri Texas Colorado Kentucky Indiana Iowa Nevada Arizona Illinois Wisconsin New York . . . West Virginia Pennsylvania , Virginia Tennessee Minnesota South Dakota, Washington.., 1910 5,394,959 5,372,639 3,907,055 3,264,012 2,950,534 2,696,779 2,306,476 2,334,125 1,826,473 1,808,078 1,758,084 1,424,187 1,361,000 1,336,%7 1,144,583 1,103,889 1,061,363 1,059,072 929,783 929,547 906,093 882,852 803,552 793,963 637,033 610,728 471,521 AUSTRALIA. The total number of sheep in Australia, including Tasmania, was estimated for 1910 at approximately 100,000,000. Of this number approximately one-half are in the State of New South Wales. In Australia sheep are handled in large flocks under the paddock or fencing system, which reduces the labor costs to a minimum. From the woolgrower's point of view Australian land laws are almost perfect. Xarge areas of grazing land maj^ be leased at very low prices with long periods of occupancy, thus insuring permanence and stability to the business. The cUmatic, forage, and other conditions surrounding the raising of sheep in Australia are excellent, the carrying capacity of the ranges nigh, and while there are no long, cold winters, periodical droughts occasionally cause heavy losses. These losses, however, will probably never again be so severe as in the past, because of improved railroad facilities. The Australian wool is clean, of a low shrinkage, and particular attention is given to the demands of the trade regarding classification, handling, and shipment of the fleeces. The Australian sheep are a type peculiar to the country, com- bining in one animal many of the oest characteristics of the mutton and merino types of sheep. Of the total number of sheep in Australia probably 80 per cent are merinos, and of the wool shipped out of that country 75 per cent is classed as merino. The majority of the merino sheep are grazed in the drier, more arid regions, w^here that type naturally thrives best and conditions compare somewhat with the ranges 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 ^20 806 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD OH SCHEDTILE K. in western America. The mutton breeds in Australia are found in ISe morrferWe portions along the coast where convenient access is hl^Tthe large^freezing wor\s, and the growers find an excellent '°Law''wSrp2dXost as much as in the United States, does not cS'so mucrin the aggregate l^^cause of the paddock ystem, Xch enables one man to care for very large numbers of sheep. KEW ZEALAND. Thft total number of sheep in New Zealand in 1910 was approxi- * f„ ol fl^ o^n hpad The dominion consists in the mam of two W \SoT'£ds affordi^ the sheep raiser excellent shipping Sitier^no flock can be more than a reasonable distance from '"O^inl'to dZ?" 'Smother conditions, fully 90 per cent of IhS Z^alS sheen are of the -"on b^ds *h- ^ wiS ^i^Jo^JSYu^rrofgr-adfKoi as^wV^a ftdTeX-nt S the lambs into good mutton. A„atrRlia and in Sheep are handled ge«e''^"yj\P'^'*°i*^ ™ ^"f*to whkh t^ South Island there are several high mountwn ranges into ^mcn^ me sheep are driven in the sprmg, leaving before the umter snows come, exactly as in the western Umtecl btates. ™.„^;r,ff i<. at ^TraLcaUy .aU land in New ^^X^^^tlcfS ^ n1 P The s/stem of Teasing ^^^^^ » «mi^'f >,*J^^^^^ fdVhX't^rte laliTaSst an/ o^r gLtlheep-raising TLS are' aZuJ the same as in Australia, but the number of men empgedil somewhat higher than there, resulting m a higher average labor cost. SOUTU AFRICA. T iQin c;nnth Africa had approximately 30,000,000 sheep, of w\ lO^cS w^i^ Cape Province, the most southerly part of StJtWSrfon" tL rest are found in the Provmces 1,-mg "^3 theSd r^-for sheep grazing seem^^ow to be in usj ^SaSSditions - S„Wy fod, ^^ ^emg no severe^^^^^^^ but occasional droughts biMg^heavy '"s^- ^^^J^j .^^ '"'^ir.T^a^^r.nfl^^^^^^ buU^bS^riTw'iiough'nV of a Sheep are generally ^^^J"*'"' V ., , • j^ ^^^ of matenal and high de-ree ^1 i^telli^^^ce O^^^ e ^^^^^^ the treeless nature of the countpr, renciug mio, ^i* r not been very generally fioptecl. ^ ^ . ^^^^ Under present methods of handling slieep ."^ J^r" ' invesimen^t f or improvements and equipment is not large. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 307 Most of the sheep are of merino blood, although the raising of the woolless type for mutton purposes has been very profitable and the local markets are not usually overstocked because of the diffi- culties of raising other meat-producing animals in South Africa. SOUTH AMEBIC A. According to the latest reliable authority there are approximately 67,000,000 sheep in the Republic of Argentina. In Uruguay there are over 26,000,000, and for the entire continent approximately 100,000,000 head. The extreme southern point of the continent, the Island of Tien*a del Fue^o, belongs in J3art to Chile and in part to Argentina. On this small island there are 1,341,000 head of sheep on the Argentina portion alone, which proves the wonderful carrying capacity of its ranges. Tnis land is regarded by expert judges as one of the best sheep- raising regions in the world, and it is to-day fully stocked. Its ranges are covered mth a heavy grass sod of great feeding value, carrying a sheep to approximately IJ acres, sometimes in large areas, a sheep to each acre. The climate is cool with plenty of rain; there is no disease, and losses from all causes are very low. North of Tierra del Fuego is the Argentine Territory of Santa Cruz, a vast region with varied ranges of a fair carrying capacity, now stocked with about 2,000,000 sheep and estimated to be able to carry that many more without overcrowding the ranges. North of Santa Cruz is the Territory of Chubut, a great, semi- desert region with ranges of moderate capacity, now about one-half stocked with over 2,000,000 sheep. Still farther north is the Territory of Rio Negro, with a range and climate similar in most respects to Chubut, but rather more subject to droughts. Rio Negro has about 5,000,000 head of sheep, and the range is capable of carrying several times as many. The Province of Buenos Aires has approximately 35,000,000 sheep, or over one-half of the total number in the Republic. The ranges are fully stocked and the number of sheep is decreasing, owing to the inroads on the ranges by wheat farmers. The soil is rich and the carrying capacity of the range extremely high. The demand for the lands will doubtless decrease the number of sheep from now on. North of Buenos Aires are several other provinces of Argentina with large numbers of sheep, Entre Rios with 7,000,000 head being the most important. The climate of these provinces is very good. The ranges are excellent, with a high carrymg capacity. Tlirough all Argentina surface water is scarce and the flocks must be supj>lied m many places from wells. The cost of sheep raising in Ai^entina is low, the paddock system of Australia being generally practiced, although there are some ex- tensive ranges whicb are not under fences. There are few, if any, wild animals and little loss from disease or poisonous plants. In some of the northern Provinces internal parasites cause losses during wet seasons. Uruguay has a much warmer cUmate, ^dth periods of drought. While differing somewhat in many characteristics from Argentina, 808 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. in a general way conditions under which sheep are handled are much the same. The whole of Uruguay is covered with a heavy sod of native grasses of varying values, the pastures have a very high carrying capacity, and the majority of the sheep find their entu*e sustenance in tlie native grasses on the ranges. Wool was originally the sole product of South American sheep, but with the coming of freezing works the mutton breeds have rapidly taken place of the merinos wherever the pastures lie close enougn to either railroad or water transportation. CAPITALIZATION, EQUIPMENT, EXPENSES, AND RECEIPTS OF THE SHEEP BUSINESS IN THE WESTERN UNITED STATES. The board has conducted a detailed investigation of the financial aspects of the wool-growing industry as it now exists in the western United States, in the prosecution oi which every effort was made to obtain figures that were both accurate and reliable. In a majority of cases growers had not kept their accounts in such shape as ti ren- der the desired information readily obtainable. However, the familiarity of the agents of the board with the industry was such that, " with the hearty cooperation of the growers themselves, results were obtained that fairly reflect the general conditions prevailing in that region. The study was commenced in Texas in February, 1911, and during the ensuing six months the operations of some 500 different concerns, representing almost every phase of the business in the various West- em States, were placed under personal examination. Not^vdthstand-* ing the fact that every effort was made to perfect a schedule of receipts and expenditures in the case of all operations studied, it was found impossible in some instances to secure data sufficiently exact to meet the necessary requirements of the investigation; and whenever this condition developed, such incomplete or unperfect schedules were omitted from the final calculations. Abnormal situa- tions and conditions of every nature were eliminated so far as possible. The results presented below, therefore, in tabular form rest upon such a large amount of carefully scanned data that it is believed that the figures are exact beyond any others previously obtained from an industry of this character. From its very nature the inquiry was a difficult one. There seemed to bo no uniformity in the accounting methods of those whose operations were under inquiiy , so that the board was compelled to formulate a general scheme of tabulation, which should insure results at once comparable and reliable. In order that the figures presented may be fully under- stood, the tables are prefaced with the subjoined detailed state- ment as to the method of computation employed. The capital invested in the flock industry is embodied in land owned and its improvements, equipment, and stock on hand at the beginning of the fiscal year under review. When, as is often the case, flock husbandry is tne sole business of the Western producer, the entire investment and operating expenses are chargeable to the sheep ; when this is not the case the investment and operating expenses occasioned by the raising of other animals or the production or crops not fed to sheep are eliminated. REPORT or TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 309 THE PROBLEM OF LAND VALUES. The land owned by the flock owner plays decidedly different rdles in different parts of the region under consideration. In some parts the sheep owners possess but little land, often only enough to give them control of water rights, etc., while in other parts the land owned by them represents a large investment and occasions a heavy charge against the sheep. But all the flock owners depend, to a greater or less extent, on land which they do not own. Such land is either free grazing land belonging to the National Government, national forest land on which grazing is permitted on the payment of a fee, or land leased for a definite sum, either from the Government through the Reclamation Service or the Indian Bureau, from the State, from private corporations such as railroads, or from individuals. The payments for the use of such land are a matter of record and occasion few difficulties. The land owned consists of grazing land and land on which crops are grown for sheep forage. For land, on which such crops are grown a rental value, fixed according to the nature of the crop, is allowed. For land used for gazing the rental value charged is fixed accord- ing to the actual grazing value. Much of this land was bought years ago, and in many cases has greatly increased in value. This is true or the land fit only for grazing, but more especially of land which, while still used for grazing, is regarded as suitable for agricultural purposes. It therefore happens that many flock owners possess large tracts of land which they use for grazing but on which they place a high value, owing to the growing demand for such land for agricul- tural or other purposes. It is evident that the burden of such land values should not be borne by the sheep, and that the charge against them for such land should be based upon its grazing value. This grazing value has been determined on the basis of prices actually paid for the use of similar land leased or rented in the same region. An example will make this point clearer. Suppose that in 1900 10,000 acres of land were bought for grazing purposes at $2 an acre, exclusive of improvements, or $20,000 for tne tract, and that the grazing value or this land was then 10 cents an acre; that in 1910 this land is valued by the flock owner at $10 an acre, or $100,000 for the tract; and, owing to the increased demand for grazing land, would, if leased, bring 20 cents an acre. It is seen that wmle the grazing value of the land has doubled, its valuation by the owner has mcreased five times. If the charge for the use of this land is to be based on the current valuation, it is evident that the sheep should be credited with the $80,000 increased valuation, less any expense which the owner may have incurred for improvements, etc. But such a procedure is not admissible, because tne gains or losses arising from the ownership of land have no bearing on the cost of wool produc- tion; and even if they had, such gains or losses would often, on account of their magnitude, overshadow those arising from the sheep operations. Hence the charge against the sheep for this owned land is 20 cents an acre, the amount which it would bring if leased for grazing purposes to another flock owner. 810 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, IMPEOVEMBNTS AND EQUIPMENT. The value of improvements has been ascertained apart from that of the land and a 10 per cent depreciation has been allowed. Account has been taken of the nature of the improvement and the date of its construction, and when there has been no depreciation or the depre- ciation has already been written off no depreciation has been allowed. Many articles of equipment depreciate rapidlv on account of their nature or of carelessness in their use, while others depreciate much more slowly. There is a part of the equipment on which the average rate of depreciation is much more rapid than on improvements, while on the remaining part the depreciation is slight, but an average depreciation of 10 per cent on the entire equipment has been allowed. No additional allowance has been made for maintenance and re- pairs, as these are covered by the depreciation. INVENTORIES AND DEPRECIATION. The value of the stock on hand at the beginning of the fiscal year, as reoorted by the owner, has been accepted. A flock of sheep may be made up of ewes, lambs, wethers, and rams. A ewe produces lier first lamb when 2 years old and her period of service varies from four to six years, depending largely upon the nature of the grazing. It has teen assumed that, on an average, after producing five lambs a ewe will be replaced^nd that she is then worth about one-half as much as at two years. Tlierefore a deprecia- tion of 10 per cent has been aUowed on breeding ewes. For example, if at the age of 2 years a ewe is worth $4, and if the average rate of ner depreciation during her five years of service is 10 per cent, her total depreciation is $2, which, together with the $2 for which she may be sold at the end of this period, wiD suffice to replace her. For rams also the period of service is from four to six years, but the average period of service is shorter than in the case of ewes, and at its close the rams are of little value. For breeding rams therefore m 25 per cent depreciation has been allowed. The rate of depreciation on wethers is radically aflfected by the conditions under wliich they are run, but if not retained too long there is only slight depreciation. In case there is depreciation, its rate is determined for each flock separately. LOSSES. Annual losses are of two well-defined classes. The first class comprises those which necessarily result from the nature of the indus- try and occur regularly from year to year and which can therefore be closely estimated. When the sheep are turned out to graze in the spring, the owners know that thev will lose a certain number as a result of death from disease or the eating of poisonous plants, of attacks by predatoiy animals, etc. The amount of such losses is a part of the regular expense of running sheep and is therefore a legit- imate item of cost. After careful consideration of the losses reported on the schedules, and in view of the fact that the amount allowed for depreciation was considered to cover some losses, the amount has been taken as 3 per cent of the value of the flock at the beginning of REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 311 the year under consideration. This is not supposed to cover losses of unweaned lambs; for since the rate of mortality before weaning is very uncertain, only weaned lambs are r^arded as raised and included in the annual increase. In addition to these annually reciurent and calculable losses the sheep industry in the West is subject to occasional losses which can not be anticipated, averted, or calculated. A favorable summer may be followed bv a winter so severe as to threaten the very existence of the flock; large numbers of sheep may die and the rest be left in so emaciated a condition as to preclude the possibility of a normal wool clip or increase. On the other hand, a favorable winter may be suc- ceeded by a summer of severe drought, bringing disaster in its wake; a chilling rain after shearing may bring death to hundreds of the flock; a thousand sheep may die in a single night from eating poison- ous plants. As a result of such losses the rate of income varies greatly frona year to year, and in an attempt to determine the average profit of the industry these losses must be taken into account. But owing to their adventitious nature, they can, obviously, not be included in an estimate of normal annual costs. EXPENSE OF OPERATION. Operating costs are divided in the schedule into Miscellaneous Costs and Costs of Labor, Forage, Shearing, and Selling, respec- tively. But in the tables Shearing and Selling Costs are included under Miscellaneous Costs. The items under Miscellaneous Costs need little explanation. In cases where the industry is carried on under a salaried manager employed by either a company or an individual a charge for admin- istration is allowed. When the owner devotes himself to the care of his flock he is allowed compensation usually as an item of labor costs, according to the time which he gives and the nature of his services. The amount allowed is that which he would otherwise have had to pav for the performance of these services. If this allow- ance had not been made the comparability of the schedules would have been seriously affected. RECEIPTS. The receipts consist of "receipts from wool" and ''receipts from other sources." The receipts from other sources comprise the net receipts from sales of sheep which were on hand at the beginning of the tiscal year under review, the value of the lambs raised during this year, whether sold or retained in the flock, and certain mis- cellaneous receipts. Since, in general, receipts from other sources consist mainly of receipts from mutton, the latter term is, for convenience, used mstead of the former in the following discussion: THE COST OF A POUND OF WOOL. In the attempt to determine the expense charge against a pound of wool two methods have hitherto been used. One method is based on an apportionment of the total costs between the wool and the mutton on the basis of the receipts from each respectively. Suppose, for 812 BEPOBT OP TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 313 example, tliat the receipts from a flock consist of 500 pounds of wool worth 20 cents a pound, or $100, and 8,000 pounds of mutton, worth 5 cents a pound, or $400, so that the total receipts are $500, and that the total costs are $400 ; then, by this method, the receipts from wool are one-fifth of the total receipts and those from mutton four-fifths of the total receipts ; the costs chargeable to wool are one-fifth of $400, or $80, and those chargeable to mutton are $320. Hence the cost of producing 1 pound of wool is $80 divided by 500, the number of pounds of wool, or 16 cents. A moment*s thought wiU show that this method is incorrect, since costs do not, as here assumed, bear a defimte relaUon to receipts. Any change in the relation between the receipts from wool and the receipts from mutton would change their respective costs of production. If, for example, the receipts from wool should remain $100, and the receipts from mutton should, owing to a fall m price, drop to $300, the costs chargeable to wool would now be one- fourth of $400, or $100, and the cost of producing a pound of wool would be 20 cents. Thus it is manifestly impossible to determine the cost of a pound of wool by apportioning the costs on the basis of receipts. Another method is to consider wool the chief product and mutton the by-product and to charge the total operating costs to the mutton and credit the net income of the business to the wool. Ihus the excess, if any, of the total operating expenses over the receipts from mutton is regarded as the cost of producing the wool, and the cost of producing a pound of wool is found by dividing this amount by the total wool chp. When, however, the receipts from mutton equal the operating costs, the cost of producing a pound of wool as found by tliis method, is notliin^; and when the receipts from mutton exceed the operating costs it is less than nothing. For example, suppose that a flock produces 500 pounds of wool worth 20 cents a pound, or $100, that there are no receipts from mutton, and that the costs are $200. The cost of producing a pound of wool is evidently $200 divided by 500, or 40 cents. But suppose that the receipts from mutton are $20. Then, by this method, the cost of producing the wool is $200, minus $20 or $180, and the cost of producing a pound of wool is $180 divided by 500, or 36 cents. And suppose, to cite a third case, that the receipts from mutton are $200 or [ust equal to the total costs. Then the cost of producmg the wool is zero. It therefore appears that while the total costs have remained the same, the cost of producing a pound of wool, as deter- mined by this method, has varied from 40 cents to nothing. It is evident that this method also is inadmissible because the cost of producing a pound of wool, thus determined, vanes^^th the relative importance of the receipts from wool and mutton. When wool is the chief source of income and the receipts from mutton are merely inci- dental and relatively small, this method is approximately correct; but as the receipts from mutton become relatively more important, the de- gree of error increases, and when mutton is the chief source of income and the receipts from wool are merely incidental, the f utiUty ot the method is clearly apparent. , , , , , - ^ The conclusion is inevitable that when the woolgrower s recemts are derived partly from wool and partly from mutton, it is impossible to apportion the costs between the two products, and that therefore we can not obtain a result which can accurately be termed the cost ot } producing a pound of wool. However, this need occasion no concern, since the bearing of the receipts from wool on the returns from flock husbandry, as carried on in the region under consideration, can be ascertained and the object of this investigation can thus be accom- plished. To this end we have considered wool as the chief product and the receipts from mutton are offset against costs. When the receipts from mutton are less than the total flock expense, the difference is called the ^'net charge against wool. " When, on the other hand, the receipts from mutton are greater than the expense, the difference is the * net credit to wool." And this net charge against or net credit to wool, divided by the number of pounds of wool, is the *'net charge against or net credit to a pound of wool." This net charge against or net credit to a pound of wool, taken in its relation to the net selling price of a pound of wool, is, normally, an index to the profit or loss represented by the entire operation. The western flock owner regulates his type of sheep with a view to maintaining such a balance between wool and mutton as will give the greatest possible return. While the receipts from mutton majr equal or exceed the receipts from wool, he does not lose sight of the impor- tance of the wool or permit its amount and value to be seriously affected by the emphasis which he places on mutton. Furthermore, the capital required to cany on the Dusiness is about the same if such a balance is maintained as if the business were carried on for the sake of either mutton or wool alone. That is, under the conditions pre- vailing in the West, the size and value of the wool clip are independent of the receipts from mutton and of the amount of the investment. For example, if a flock of merino sheep shears on an average 7 pounds of wool, worth $1.40, with no receipts from mutton, a flock of cross- bred sheep might, under the same conditions and with the same investment, shear about the same amount of wool of approximately the same value and may also jdeld $2 worth of mutton per head. Since this is the case, the net charge against or net credit to a pound of wool, taken in its relation to the selling price of a pound of wool, is, normally, an index of the success or failure of the year's operations. For example, when the receipts from other sources suffice to cover operating costs, the value of the wool clip constitutes the income of the business, the net charge against the wool is nothing or less than nothing, and the rate of mcome on the investment is correspondingly high. INCOME ON INVESTMENT — INTEREST NOT INCLUDED. The receipts from wool, minus the net charge against or plus the net credit to a pound of wool, constitute the net income of the busi- ness; and the percentage which this sum bears to the capital invested is the rate of mcome on the investment. The investment consists of land owned, improvements, equipment, and the flock; but, since the investment in the land has already been charged against the industry in the form of graziag value or rent, this item has been left out of account in computing the rate of income. The investment per head of sheep has been determined by dividing the total investment, exclusive of lands, by the size of the flock. The 814 REPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. inyestment in land hm he^n excluded because of ite widely varying adgiiificance in different sections and even among flock owners of the same section. In examining our various tabulations it should be remembered that no interest is allowed on capital invested or on capital borrowed. Our schedules contained statistics of the amount of capital borrowed and the rate of interest paid ; but, notwithstanding the fact that it has been tJie practice, in discussing the sheep industry, to consider interest as an item of cost, it has been thought advisable in this investigation to consider it in connection with profits. Since some flock owners use much more borrowed capital tnan do others, this elimination of interest from costs makes the schedules more comparable. In the western United States the prevailing rate of interest varies from 8 per cent to 10 per cent; in Australia from 4 per cent to 6 per cent, and in South America from 5 per cent to 6 per cent. HOUBSS COVERING MORE THAN THREE MILLION HEAD OF SHEEP AND OVER TWENTY MILLION POUNDS OP WOOL. With this general outline of the method adopted in developing the facts as to general production expense in the western United States the results are herewith appended: arranged first in groups illustrating the wide variations naturally looked for in an industry of this character, the net averages afterwards being shown by States, by sections, and for the region as a whole. The schedules upon whicli these calculations are based were filled out by agents of the Tariff Board, who personally visited each flock owner. As far as possible such flock owners were selected as had kept partial or complete accounts of their operations and were therefore especially qualified to furnish the information required. Among the large flock owners of the West full accounts are often kept, and in every instance access to them was freely granted. The Btatistica thus obtained are deemed sufliciently comprehensive and typical to afford a basis for conclusions as to tlie present condition of the sheep industry of the western United States. The results of the investigation of tlie flock industry west of the Missouri River are summanzed in the following six tables, which apply to 3,151,731 slieep, producing 20,764,713 pounds of wool. Table I represents those cases in wliich the net charge against a pound of wool is 20 cents and above. Table II, those in which it is 15 cents and under 20 cents. Table III, those in which it is 10 cents and under 15 cents. Table IV, those in wliich it is 5 cents and under 10 cents. Table V, those in which it is under 5 cents. Table Yl, those in which there is a net credit to wool. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 315 1 * 2 a-- P5.So :^ I M I I I I M I I I I M M I I I M M M M M I I i M I i I I to a. 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I O ■n' CO I )QO»J5(33«5^t^rtOj,^^ issg^^s^^- ^ s'd'Eia s^a^^^^^g^" ■♦ c5 r- >00Q0OQr-li I CO r-; O CO CO I «o gj o j^ Qo t^ tc ccg-co .^••orci^'~M-«5'r-;t>r$ 3 o A 3 6 9 o o s e p .«>9»-«oeu3'ao-<a9M J I J I I a, fl 5 DOS r^ in >0 1— ) >Q lO to i-^ lO 'O u? 1^ 1'^ 'Q xQ i '" ■ ■ * ■ #•••■#•«•*■■•«•«••■•••■••••«••■■•■•• «(HiO'>i'3NS5oe»3'3<-3'!S40ei5N»ol}S«oiooOWOOOio a^oToTci'Df to oTciw oT q ^jJ cq c^>o icToo o ortC^t^'>oF-coF«OttC<^MNoacceoOcccoo>«ooot«M'»» Oi T*l F^ CM CD fHI f^ (r* f^ ''flf* ^^ f^ T*l i~ik fHI ^§§il2§S22S^5!SSS28g8r:SS6Si8S8SgS.^ggS§ 2§2*'2'S8.=£5*S\^'''^S's5"Ss¥SS£t\'2''S^^^ 0000000'*»'*0>a5!P'^C-<«0'#QOQ«00 c5DOor-0'-H-»->«oa»c^i--t'^c«w«5o I 00< BEPOBT OP TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUIiE X, 319 i-lO»^-l'0<*«0»W»-«OWOO«000».-l©OOC»eiO>^0--b-t-iC»0>0 I I KD ^ "^ >6 fo *6 16 1^ t6 ro >ti *a f6t4-^>6 to -^tei to ui-^e6t6 to ■^•^■^citeitr^'^t^n 00 CO >9 I Ob Tt e* -^ ao ( i^;3^S2g^gSSt^gg$gS8&3g8 3® S 13 5* O oOt-i 00 30 to? l3S'"2§22"?3*2§?2a5'*^a*S^g2"'5S^'8 •COOcOj c4io(>icft 00 C4 o «5 to s _ , eO •-« O t^ 00 CO to > O t-^ ■<* lO » < OS • lO ( s CO n S888858g^8888SS^^{2SSSS8S2SSS38g§8SS8 i S2 12 "fi I-" t^ " i a, e«« o t^ CO < J t^C*3 C^ J C>4 eg CO id I > '^ O OS CO ( > 1— (O OOOJ I 3 op I-H t>- f-( ■«< ! 5«a)QO«oe!i< > -^ r^ t>» C35 O ' w « g g JO « ;:5 eg gf 3 cs jC^- g cc ^-cC^-^^«^ « „-g „^^ a-co « « co-g co-a 88S§S§S;?SS88888loS5§§SSgS§SS888S82S8S eo of •«.« ° * « » T^A^,4s ^ ^ ^ - « « > t'- r>- c« i-< 00 »>• < 5 ■* CO o ■'f <25 o < to 00 §SSSS222H3«OC0M^i0OOQ,-i.0't CO Ci O -^ <3b < > -*tO < 'ap' I OS >o to SO(NOOO( -S P £2 •« • < O l^ O OJ I 00 o -si t^ CO c5 Ci o o !* c to 320 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Ml Q CO v-j (X5§ ttO 5 u «- S off P, :3 I M o o n I I 11 .00000»- f-, r^ 1^ r-. cso 00 Qi « 00 00 g SOOOOOOOOOOO W<^ •-• cQ i-t •v eo i-< "O CI e<5 N ■»'* r-n-ii-i i-i rifrti-t S$9^&S83SSSS5!5:2g2g5i5:23§?Jl5SSSS!5Sg3S8S5!SS I IOCS ^ ^' !B 00 '■"? '-o '~ p »■- '-0 -^ • r-l e<»»-« CI <^ »H rif-H C* ■— I 8SS88S388S5i8S8'^88328S8538S8S88S8§8SSKSSa ^sKoOOC400^h>OaewMO-io6oMQ>Qi0^0^05pi'5"ClW !SaS'0-=^r>-«5eooor--*SciS5ooMr^r^aO'*ou5i^t-^-<* g888888S§88:S§5SS8So28888888888888888^Eo8 gg^g^§^f3gggSS3i£?giSS8Kg8^SggigSg8S2 i-if-l 1-4 »-l r-ti-l 888S8!^882So5852822JSS:38$!5S?8SS2S8888Sg8 ®?^Cia»^"T30C)OC»33»ub^iO>--tWC^S<}SopQCCOQC» «»01 T-i »-• ■* »-l O "5 rH W CO "V CS «-< "VO r-i t-n-l i-l t-iiOS5i-t 88888{2S8^SS8f^28SSSS:S88SSg88J5S8888S^8 t>.OaDr-4<0»Ot^»0»oe<5ot^c«5QBi-i»HCO»'*oo® ^ - - ■C«Q'^> _ lOit^O'O'OOST-iOiOC"*" ic« 88888S88S?5i28388SSf2J5888S{288;2SS?8S888S88 ac w Csi C5 w CO Cm ^ *35 ^ ^ Q w ^ CO 1^ &i *^ CO O^ O^ 'X^ ^^ O^ ^^ 00 uC lq ih,«C'a(5o©«o«c«c5c400'*>-iQr~-C4MOJi-t> r-l ri CS »H I '*• Q 00 O p I-" > I O* 25 c1 Q »0 •-; < 1 1>. ■* "V O t'- O < > •-top a>>a < |PM| ^""1 f""^ l""^ 1^^ |P«I"| ^^"'4 (""I IF""! ?!:SSS^i885S88SS8SS2£jg{2S^5§f{';SS25!3gS28a r^ C4 C*l i-t r-l i-« »-( d C* t^ BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 321 »r^'*OOJ«0^««'-<"5»C.CJC5«5W5«OeOi-ICOOh-OOC4^t'ia6a6t>^ CO cicit^-^ci'Ot^td CO t^'^-^aa c5 r-l I— ti-H 00i—<»Hi— If— It— I T-I«-| r- 1 ,_|l,^ 0"?e»C51CO'^««3«C«l'»'000«0'r-(iOOOC]-"*05«Ot»c«»io»0'VO'»r^oooc^aoeoO'<»icsec«o^e<5 eo«•«u^u^t^as'0*•*c6^d•^■^»^ .MOf-HOO'*»-iCcSeO'*'-lP?M'*S«OCflN'*-*05'«J"MM>OeO--^ rHrHt---H»-ie»li-i»-it-Hi-Hi-- icli-^»-i<-iO<-i>-HT-(»-t.-i»-.i®'*iffloso>o»-t«irtooc<«t--.oooooocj"^»o-^t>-oooo'^'-ON.os CO U3 1^ o pg050N'-oC'icoo>fle'I >o vo ( sioootHi— it^-oioeooiroi . -, ^ -- _i>/5»Ct>-t-~i-l NC»COO?0-H«0«0'^2jg«-i»OC5'^-^t>-«OOWOS"*»-l®05COeOO»OSCCCO?ONC-|i-l »-iOO 882:2S8888SSS8S§8S888S88888S5S888S88S8888 So O 50 •* »o f^ «>) O) p 1^ r-l 00 eo a» 05 OS ccc4'o;< !5S 0'«»'ccQOeiu50»o«o »-ju;c^e»50r-- op ffl! < 00 o o & Dr-n-lQO'^^b-SOO^H'a'l ^o6t^r^«5cDooc^c5cocoi goppopp T— I O O t— I iQO S'~'§?3«oSco2ooo-^^u?< ^ l-< <£> C^ I-l rH O I-l "5 f ( > 0> P Oi S88gJSSJo28S88SJ3SSS8S8SS8SI8fol28SSi28888S88 'no )CO CtppI eow*s3sooNa»oo>o 'S l«Ot>.i»P( ii^oo t>.o< I . ( !5 ^gJt*^*^So*®*"** "* g g « t^To^'V TjT^^jjf ^""^ t^"''<^''w''g"'H''(N o" o I— I o ?^!!^?§?S5???^^^^S§8Soi?§§g8§?38^E5S8888SS8 CO - - I-ICI OS-* ( ^ N «0 0"tN. "= " ^ 5§ Sf •^■^^ ^'■■^'''«''o^w'"-f w 2 2~«"'o^t>rcf cf r^'-tCV'c^^ »"i o s w p ^ t^ o — < >«-^pO'r e 00 > r-^ o CO ■* Oi a. — I WOli > (N 01 C I > O 00 p »0 O O CO I iS: ) 00 OICO Ml ■»r io t-^ M 00 So 83 5 18 g ^"^'^^Vg g ^"iS I SS'gf S"J^"^^^^^ >-ir- s? w «5 '^ QO ® ^ ^'^^^^'^^■^'^^'■^'c^i^c^^c^^^n-coco^^rrcod^c^r^o^rH^ 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 21 i-O ■"Tl 322 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. O 2 (a* • ID C 09*71 «5o ttc •9.8 fe'S *' fid a 3 M s 8 X5 §1 m S I ^ to oi "3 «o "^ (x5 oJ •-< fc « t* 3; ::« 't c^ 'T 3 » •4 Ol •-< < ^ S£ ^ ^ ' ' »*# 1-H 00 S*^*"SS?S^S5S"=5S'**Jo^S*'^^gJi:i«*iiSg'^S'=S5 S88&88888S2S^SSSSS882gS8ie^8^S;S8S8S88S 8S8888^8iSSi?88gsa8888fe8888i^SS2iSSgSS?g \8\ 1.0' t OJ Cw CSl c5 oo < ' f— « 'lo *o CO o> < !8Si8888' I O t— O *— ' (X* O t— < I ae lo g s» s 1 1~- r— o O < i^S S5SgI^R:?2*g8S5:sSSSSS22$S5S^*SSiigiSi3$8SSS iSSg55i2{S8{:$8?Sg§SJ^288S?a2Sg8§8gSf2S8s» esi -^f ■* -* o »o lo t^ oi eo i-< t^ M "3 ■^ 1^ »-i "•y »n o oj I- po •♦ ci r- ioeo«o«o*eo»o ■ «J-< lO r-l Ol O I - >0 t-i Ol C< 31 —I CD U3 SP 00 r;; I- j-1 c6 S 00 c» S3 So ei -H ■♦ o«3 g ■"" '^ s s ^ N sssasjs t^ 35 CO I— I ^ lO t>. — < -H r— Q N oooK«« 00 CO — " CM to t- ■-H OOOD S Si 3 t-« o a3 4D<-i I )0< 1 roi I.'* ■— * ^7- «i5 CS «D c> to cn — « lo ^jT 88^88^ O '"^ CD O »C oD 05 I— '-H *-4 ^H C*^ to e^ =3 > t^ Q O iC > v-H flri (ij5 r* ) lO ^ K-4 cS KSiSfeSS -i~«t^'<*««oooooO'*oooot*t^cooiNoto»coooQO r^ « iS (^ o ■* f^ DMO ■■«• iO M N lo QO 00 •* o '*'# N 'O « lO «o M <-;-*««« '-^McS(»0'-HyifHoior^ §g|?8S?2^?j8§8ag$^$g8?3$S8S5888SS5?S22§SS8S CO S Ci O iQ C3 Q CO ooNf-i.-fi.';^ cjioot"--<»'io»-4'^<'00'-0'*"*Oi-«i-<'*.-iciot-oc« 80 O O O O O O O O O O lO O *^ ^ O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 05 o o o f" O Q Q Q Q C '-5 Q r^: Q OS » Q OS CIS O OS «C Q ci C3 « CO 12 CJ 00 ci «d h^ Q © oc>S«'-5 f-i>-^rO'H f-i-«i'weM'*i3 0»-it'- N 1-4' « 1-1 OS CO '01 "* 8OOOOOOQOQOOOO5!0'-5'OOQSQQQQQQQOQ"5QfQQQ oo«35eoooeooooo«'*oococ5iooo'Soooo«5om« ^>Iooo^CQ•^Oc30'd'^"■^Qldoooioc»-c5?^e>^5fi25QflS'*Mac■*«Q•-^-^c^l®lOt^Q^^ aSM»tN.weoi-<'*QoeF-»-*0'*e^o«n«cviioSe«4oooct»occor^coa>osooc»oe!ia5 jC-"Qc-or^->-cfos*oo2aog^-3'^"g2;:;« ?3^"SS"S§§ 88SSSS8388S5S8S2S??S88S§888S8^^8g528 Q^'^iSii?^5St5?5^I^tgS?jgSg2;5J3SSS^ - »>orf^nr^ ■£ 2 ;h -j eigf jCo-gl g-oToc ci ^- « osm-^- ig cToo j; ^'g J5 ;:-' J^"" Sf 25 S O o '3 c 3 o C O t'^ 25 M 3 C r^ C «o e '-0 25 o O o o o Qc'cc r^o tCcs lo'os t^' x"x 'o'lOii 00 oc 'C o c; y 'O "5 00 of c^'uf cs «i4'iCco o'ej oo'co e!rti-«r-ic« c* cC' 01 ■* o C4 o t-t >^ C4 -H o« C) — « SS'-f'Joiooi Oi-fCO^Oi»5CH'»'OSOSi—i'—I^MO rf ■* c^ lO o C4 00 1-"! MS'-ci>-iO'-teofO'-'eocC'-t •^'cioir^-^'rH' ci"«ra'CO O O'g O CO l-T o''*'"« »6' pi"r4'<3'i-r^cj"r^*CO Os'cf JCf-TMiO EEPOET OP TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 325 SSi§S2?SSS2 CI c5Q005«oeQ«-i>-i'U»i— IrHi-li— ItHtH ^ I— •cDcO'— icoiooe^co 88SSgiisS OS wSS§ ooocoi-': Sroo c^icjiNOcor-iopos OSOn'OCOOQiOO-H "JtO 50 ^H'cOi-Ti-i'co'of o CO CO £5 eo2«ScS^^2S §copf^»oo wr-coesjco '* 00 OS CO ■«*! OS Sg^8St2§8S '-•"S'osrccoc^-^oS 88S888888 Ot^< »H a do -^ us I osofofcoi-r CO OS I 3" 8SScocoSt288 j>.ooSiqS^S5S ciiO'^coioosaSt^'^ ^ * ;:5"S~'* <^f feS5SgSS28i JO of of CO'rH r^rH* r^TH 8 326 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Tlie statistics contained in tlio forejjoing tables are further sum- marized in the following Tables VII, VIII, and IX. TABLE Vn. Net charge. Cases. Sheep. Pounds of wool. Table Num- ber. Percent- age of total. Number. Percent- age of total. Average size of flock. Number. Percent- age of total. I n 20 tents and abovo 15 cents and iindtT 20 cents 40 59 71 74 42 44 12.1 17.9 21.5 22.4 12.7 13.4 418,541 594,268 807,775 077,545 3,52,912 280,000 13.9 18.9 25.6 21.5 11.2 8.9 10,964 10,072 11,377 9,156 8,403 6,379 2,630,297 3,830,815 5,459,088 4,605,141 2,293,087 1,874,285 12.7 18.5 26.3 22.5 9.0 11.0 III IV VI 1 ; and under 15 S cents and under 10 cents Under 5 cents Net credit Total 330 100.0 3,151.731 100.0 9,651 20,704,713 100.0 Net charge. Net charge against wool. Selling price. Differ. Table. Highest. Ijowest Actual ■ average. Highest. Lowest. Actual average. tween average net charge andf average selling price. I II 20 cents and above 15 cents and under 20 cents SO. 384 .198 .148 .098 .043 .20 O O (N s 0) o 03 Wn" W9» 00 CO s in 00 ■•— t f-H w CO COtOeOiOiSJcO Q 03-2 • ir woo< to '33 Oil I 00 COCC "O <0 Oi t^ CO ci5 -"T 25 Si ( - f e-i t^ o CO a> o t:- 1^ lo o r^ OO CO 1-1 ■^ CO O O .-I 0> 00 CO Ol CI CO UO M O CO 00 tQ .— t ..H 00 rl ,-( C4 (N rH 13 oT .— I 00 «0 «0 04 o "* CO K -.ji T-l $ lO CV| t>. lO O CO CO o> o r- lo GO •<9» "O 00 CO CO (N .-I Cs «0 "^ t^ 1< e4 r-^ 1-4 c4 ci CO ri i-H e-i w 1-1 ,-( ^ lO t^ t- •* '^ CO eo" o 8 o > 0) a> *.> CS r-t ,-( lO *-' << 03 O in 5 § 3 I S .4 I 2 CO O Sis S- -d C3 s 4:; a CO •♦J .e 8 2 bo ca s o i«8 O rt r* O j3 ki f*H O 5 I a I . rH ira 00 t^ CO c« ; o> POOlO^ l-H t-l W CO ^ I" 0> CO t^ ■<»< t» § ifi CO 00 oi t>^ CO $; I i I "*j t^ CO i-< i-( 10 00 u CI a> 00 C4 '^ •— I O r-l'TCO-* M5 c« t^ CO CO efl 1.0 CO ■* CO »0 CO •o iQ «o lo ui 06 «oeS 000^53 coeoN CO coco o CO O O QOt^ CO Oi o oi i^ .-! 06 c4 M'MCOCOfN-^ COOCIuOOOIN s? 8 ^ coo C0 1-1 .-I I— 1 to i^ 00 .— < I— 1 1— ( I— I T— I Cv| S^8§8S 5 CO 8 to I» §«^ 88g 82o >. O (U h ,S g fl^ . c3 3 s a i2 go g'2s^« CO 03 03 °3 10 "5 ^-» +J 4J tp cu 8881-01 c5 .-< r-H lO H^ 1^ C3 O !>>!::: 328 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOET OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 329 The above table shows, witli regard to the average costs per head that in the average forage costs per head there is wide variation and that both the average forage costs per head and the average miscel- laneous costs per liead are high in those groups where there is a hic^h net charge against wool, altliough the miscellaneous costs vary less widely than do the forage costs. Concerning receipts, this table shows that m group VI the average receipts from wool per head are lower and the average receipts from otlier sources very much higher than m any other group, but that if group VI be left out of account there is but little variation in the average receipts from wool per head. It will be noticed that the average capital per head varies but little Wie extremes being $5.33 and $5.62, but that in the average rate of mcome on capital there is wide variation, from a loss of 9.1 per cent to a gain of 24.2 per cent, the average being a gain of 6.2 per cent, while for 48.5 per cent of the total number of flockomiers the year's operations resulted in an income of 10.7 per cent or more. fe o " g ari oicS CO WW -8 3 a SS . . • • • • 9 o aV p C tB 2 S S > a a a P a,^ ^ C3 O 03 o o r^ tr ?5 1-H o Eh o Si 08 c c3 O 52 Ph (-1 © o o o M g =3 M S ^ 02 ^ +^ P. o o © ©. a © © 7 ^ a Pu rv O C m © a o o p © © © b£ © ©^ © 05 © to c3 © ;> 03 O P O © «5 ©•3 © o >.^ 03 p^m © rC5 © c3 f>^ © p^ P^ © c3 ^ nd _«, O O c« ShP ffi © © rP © d O (S CO P ©+="«* 'd o -*^ r^ © 03 bD© o O 55 © ;-4 © © ■♦3 c3 u" U o3 ri © 330 1.^ BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE SL ea o _j ♦J PS.SS 11 OS tm 3 S? 3 Pj s 8 u 8 * * ■ + * S eg e^ i3 rH O 00 t^ ^ -« t>. 00 c^i ■«• |SS88|gSR28g8$ CO 00 QO 9 £3 1 J2S £2^' f-^ "O '<»! ci -4 5!¥s 2? ?2 gf ^-gf §3 '^s's SSF^SgSgg^SSgg? ?t! S? 9P ■'^ "30 c i-t iX » >o «3 ( J o < 1 l^t Ci s as woeo'5'«^^ cs 00 5 09 C3 1^ •fca Cft 00 ►O "5 I « 1-4 X 6 {25 m BEPORT OF TAKIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE E. 331 -a *^ 03 > CO 8SS8§S3^??S?3{28 ^t^< icDO0< CO-^r-t »0 r-i 1— iC01^tHWCo S^ 00 1— t 00 <2 "0 « 03 a E H o i3r-(t>-coao»Heog>co«iO'* t-HOOr-l.— (00»-tOO'-t si ■ * T-«t-ti-HC0tO«Ol©O>»OeOvtot^(Ocooot^Oit~> "d o a 5 Ph oit~o>cor^otocoioooQ «QOOOQ6»-H"3't^«COl^c5 T-t « (N CO T-IC* i-H 1-1 CO 111 grHCp'PCOOi'CCOO'-HOO lOOlOr-ICllClO-^t-^l-- S5gS^¥:§S38nf5?~0 t-i rl CO CO -V i-l CO f-i CS| -^ t^tS p» o.M«ocot^oot>-'* •«ii«s;-^io-s5ioeS fl eSTJS o k ^3 S^B ^ "- §>fl O C) OJ QO'H OS «a 9 rtS o 0^ bc §•11 o 332 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 333 CO »0 z ^ . »< d «o p ,g I •3' K K. O 00 k. $ 32 ••a -kt •^ "^ s «5> JO -a n -< P © 3 -5 r '*' fc« ** _. a "^ JH.., lihM ,.• '^ _ (i™* W f— ■ ■"-*< a " ". "^ *^ ^^ fi^ ^5 ' U 8 «5 to 14 3 3 s* o ■a Jl e 8*0 ^5 w^O C*l wC 00 O t""^ C) '■^ «! 3 -^ CJ C6 t» oi -v o "O CO 2} e e -; 00 £j « -I « o 00 r* t^ ro "5 ?i o» « » 1^ r: o c" o ■«' Qc c^ -!• ' Q go'-^t- C «J5 O rt 'X '55 O ^^ 'O Ol ■* — t 1— I C>l ?>l N »^ -^ IN 8 O W r) p o fc n a S" a ^ «i ri ^ ilj 1^ O 'J f.. [N. tjj t'^ t^ A O t^' 2 3 to ♦ W5 s .^ s Si 8 t- lO •o t» s p ^§il K sssssssssr^s s s .6 . 13 S •S-^r: c t. H ^- i^ 3 OS w# ;5 « o Cl r-l el S g 3 2 •o 3 3 S «• 3 ® c «- 5 O"** ?r TO ^ cK w ^, "S i: r" — 9 f^ ^' o flBT3 «*i S a o Sf.S •3 2 i. t iilsl o •5 «3 o u O — C ?• o i. 2 'iJ So 19 03 •* o Se *; I-, O '-' *i ^l w ^ c9 O 2". o5 , !> « O o CO jic!«i '^^ rMC c o 3-9 l| COMPARATIVE OPERATING COSTS BY COUNTRIES. The countries which are either actually or potentially competi- tors of the United States in the production of wool are Aus- tralasia, including Australia and New Zealand, South America, including Argentina, Uruguay, and Chile, and South Africa. It has not been possible, nor has the board deemed it necessary, to present detailed tables of costs for these countries, as has been done in the case of the United States. And while the statistics of comparative costs presented in the following pages are for the most part based on information collected in the countries concerned by special agents or representatives of the board, it should be remembered that from the nature of things this information is not so complete as that col- lected for the United States and that consequently the statistics partake more of the nature of estimates or approximations than do those given for the United States. The board oeheves, however, that the statistics of costs presented are sufficiently typical and closely enough approximate the costs incurred during normal seasons and under conditions necessitating no abnormal expenses to bring out the comparative conditions existing in the United States and these other countries. The board has not thought it necessary or desirable to include all the countries above mentioned in the detailed comparison of costs, but has confined such comparison to Australia and South America, and in the case of New Zealand and South Africa has presented only comparative statements of general costs. Unless otherwise indicated, the statistics here presented are for the year 1909-10, and those given for the United States apply only to the region west of the Missouri Kiver. Comparative investment, — In the United States, as represented by the region west of the Missouri River, the average investment per head oi sheep in the case of the flocks studied is $5.30. In Austraha and South America it is estimated as $6 and $4, respectively. This investment consists of investment in the flock and investment in improvements and equipment. In our Western States the investment in the flock is $4.40 per head, and in Austraha and South America $4 and $2.75, respec- tively. These are the values obtaining during the early months of 1909. Since then the sheep industry of the United States has under- gone decided depression, with the result of a shrinkage of flock values, in some cases amounting to 25 to 50 per cent. In Austraha, on the contrary, the industry has been in a highly flourishing con- dition, and this has created a strong demand for stock sheep; so that there has probably been some increase in the average value of the flock. And in South America the industry has continued to flourish and the flock values have remained practically unchanged. The fact that the average investment in the flock is lower in Aus- traha and in South America than in the United States is due to the greater average distance of the sheep runs from the market and to the decidedly higher percentage of wethers and immature sheep in the flocks. And the fact that the flock values are lowest in South America is due to local conditions and to the inferiority of the South American sheep as compared with those of Australia. 1 O04 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 335 The investment other than investment in the flock, comprisinsf investment in improvements and investment in equipment, amoimta in the Western States to S0.87 and in Australia and Soutli America to $2.10 and 11.25, respectively. Improvements comprise such items as buildings, which include dwelhng houses and shelter for sheep and other stock used in sheep husbamlry, and for crop; lambing and shearing sheds, wells, wind- mills, tanks, ditches, dipping vats, etc. The nature and extent of the improvements vary greatly from region to region and from ranch to ranch, according to the varying conditions and needs. The Western flock owner as a rule snends but little money on ranch dwellings, as he himself frequently Mves in town, and most of his employees lead a nomadic life with the slieep. In the Soutli west, moreover, on account of- the mild climate, shelter for the flock and lambing sheds are not required, and since the sheep graze the year rounds there are no harvested crops to be housed. But farther north, sheep shelters, bams and lambing sheds are necessary, and some provision must be made for housing a portion of the extensive crops raised to carry the sheep through the wint-er. This advantage of the Southwest in regard to improvements is largely offset by the greater investmenii required for the supplving of water. In the Northwest there is as a niie a natural water supply, whereas in tlie more arid Southwest the requisite supply can, in many cases, be assured only by means of expensive dams, wells, reservoirs, ditches^ etc., and consequently the average expenditure for improve- ments IS about as great in the Southwest as in the Northwest. In the Western States sheep are almost universally herded, and, aside from corrals, fences are built only to protect grazing lands from cattle and horses. The extent of such fences varies in different regions, but is nowhere great. The investment in shearing plants is not important in the United States, except on the largest ranches, since the general practice, in the West is to drive the sheep to some central shearing plant near a railroad, thus avoiding the long haulage of wool. The average value of improvements in tlie United States is low in comparison with their importance to the industry. They are too often clieaplY constructed, owing m some cases to the fact that they are built on land held under uncertain leases, in others to the immi- nent probability of the substitution of agriculture for flock husbandry, and in general to the lack of stability and permanence of the industry and the consequent scarcity of capital and high rates of interest. The unsubstantial nature of tne improvements entails a heavy burden on the industry and explains tlie high charges for mainte- nance and repairs and for depreciation, which together amount to nearly 5 cents a head. Until the industry can be put on a more per- manent footing it will apparently be impossible to reduce this item. The investment for equipment is an important item in the United States, being on an average about 45per cent of the total investment in improvements and equipment. The equipment is of two classes, that which is used in connection with the direct care of the sheep and that which is used in cultivating and harvesting crops for the sheep or in providing for the needs of the employees. The equipment comprises such items as horses and pack animals, harness, saddles, freight wagons, camp outfits, including specially fitted up herders' wagons, tents, etc. Horses form an important part of the equipment, being required for hauling provisions long distances and as mounts for the men. Many flock owners econo- mize by raising their own horses. The maintenance of the equipment in this country is a constant source of expense. Many items are of a perishable nature; there are heavy losses from breakage and theft; and owing to the hard roaose are much lower m Australia and nearly negligible in South America, although in the former country the flock owners are obliged to expend considerable sums on rabbit- proof fences and, in some States, to pay special taxes, which are expended on the protection of the flocks from predatory animals and from disease- BEPOBT OF TAHIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 337 In the United States a skin disease known as scab is widely prevalent among sheep, so that a large percentage of the flock owners are forced to resort to dipping, which, iii the worst infected regions, must be done two or three times a season. The average expense of dipping, for the country as a whole, is about 2 cents a head. In Austrfdia, on the other hand, the disease has been practically erad- icated and occasions no considerable charge against the industry, although in certain restricted regions dipping is still necessary. But in South America the disease is prevalent in a much more severe form than in the iJnited States, and the average cost of dipping per head is fully twice as much. In the United States taxation is a heavy burden, amounting to nearly 5 cents a sheep. Both sheep and improvements are taxed in aU the States investigated. The larger owners pay a national incorporation tax, and some States impose a license tax on flocks brought in from other States for grazing purposes. Grazing conditions frequently make it necessary to move sheep from one part of a State to another, and it sometimes happens that the same sheep are taxed twice during the same year. In Australia the taxation on sheep, including the small tax already mentioned as levied for the protection of the flocks, local taxes, and an income tax, amounts to about half as much as in the United States. In South America the average tax on sheep is about 4 cents a head. Shearing costs are comparatively high in the United States. The flock is usually driven a long distance to a common shearing plant, consisting of little more than a shelter for the men and paddocKs for the sheep. After being removed by the shearer, the entire fleece is tied into a bundle and tossed to the packer, who tramps it into a bag. No attempt at sorting or cleaning is made, and as a rule but little care is used to protect the fleece from dirt and other foreign sub- stances. That is to say, the charge for shearing, which is about 9J cents a head, is a charge for simply removing the wool from the sheep, tving it into a bundle, and carelessly tramping it into bags. Tne snearer himself sometimes rolls and ties the fleece, so that no work remains to be done except to tramp the fleece into the bag. In Australia, on the other hand, each ranch is equipped with a durably constructed and well-arranged shearing plant, and the work of removing and caring for the fleece is all done on clean floors, the greatest care being exercised to protect the fleece from contact with foreign substances. After the fleece is removed it passes to the "sorter," who separates the inferior parts (bellies, tags, leg pieces, locks, sofled parts, etc.) from the main part, known as the ''fleece," a process which is cafled ''skirting,'' and puts them into different bins. The fleece itself is then roUed and secured by twisting in one end, no strings being used. The sorters are higlily sldlled men, who m many cases have had experience in sortmg wool in English mills. They work under the direct supervision of the "classer," who bears the responsibility for the proper skirtmg of the fleeces and their final classification into "combing,^ "clothing," etc. The packing is done ♦K V^f^^* care, and hydraulic presses are used to reduce the size of the bales. Bv this means diflFerent ranches estabhsh a reputation in tne market that gives value to the brand, and there is rivalry to attain the honor and the financial rewards that come firom topping 32080°--H. Doc. 342, 62-2. vol 1 22 # -338 BEPOBT OF TABITF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 339 the market. This serves as a constant stimulus to better breeding and careful handling of the clip. , . ,,■ ■ ^Van »<> nbout TK« ftvprflire totS cost of sheanng m Austraha is given as aoou* 8 2s^ ifead Of this, 7 centslSes to the shearers the men who di^ctWait on them, aid those who pack the wool, so tta* th^ Bmonnt Z Daid for work for which 9i cents is paid _m the United S ThrremainL amount, about 1 cent, w^ch is.e^Pe^ded in Australia goes to pay for the more careful preparation of the ^ooHor ^e maK and U this there is no corresponding expenditure m *^Thetft Kgs has not been included in the shearing^ When oTdinarv iute ba^ are used their cost is about the same as in the TW^^^States b^ lest loose fibers of jute may become mixed with the wool it is the uTual practice in iustralia to singe these bags in the Wde The more careful flock owners, however, are using bLs linXwith paper, which about doubles the cost. The bales are mwkKth the^olner's name and with a statement of the qua hty Td clasTof the wool contained, and the grower's identity is not lost '^t '^jrl^^^:ii!'^eX^^s are l-er th«. in ^^ ^ asfaTmethor^ preparing wool for the market are F^^uf y S^^^Jf adopted in South Wica, the methods prevailmg m that country more nearly approach those of the Umted States. ^„„™Hp™d ^e items of iiisceUaneous expenses winch remain to be ^ns^ered ammmt approximately on an average per head o |i c|^t^^ the TTnitnH States 8 cents in Austraha, and 4 cents in boutn America,. B^i since o~vlt of the differing conditions of the mdustry m the toee co^?ri^, it has been necessary to g«>"Pfe items djf^eren^^^^^^ these amounts are not «>"«^tly compara^^^^^^^^^ ^7ot XortS KoSer"rco3S.' To/e1amKm^^^^^ ^leVsuli'aVr^arly obUged to mo- their s^ hund^^^^^^^^^ r^^ffiha?iaiSaSr^1Sh^ fet settti the fo«?e r^^^ by the sheep during transit, andf, country important items of expense, and they do not normauy oci. fJ^e42S. This .^tmJly v»« «!»"? J»» ?»' •» J""' iw.irv,\.ii«4ATi fn TPmon and even from ranch to rancn. ^ ,. , South America is the cost of hauhng wool, often long distances, to me market In the United States this expense is considerably less, because the shearmg plants are located near the radroad. COMPARATIVE LABOR COSTS. The average costs of labor per head, including the cost of food and lodging are about $0.82 in the Western States, about $0.07 m Aus- tralia and about $0.23 in South America. In the United States the laborers consist of supenntendents or overseers, herders, camp tenders, cooks, general ranch laborers and extra laborers employed at lambing time. Of the total average charge of about $0.82, about $0.63 goes to the first three classes, who are usii ally employed throughout the year. The following table shows the average wages per month, including board, paid in the different States. Arizona California Colorado Idaho Montana Nevada New Mexico Oregon Utah Washington Wyoming The region Sui)erin- teadents. 84.80 94.05 76.24 101.98 102.22 111.50 66.21 85.52 89.08 89.60 113.80 90.72 Camp tenders. 50.38 68.76 45.83 69.03 68.39 64.93 39.61 62.52 63.06 61.33 69.00 59.82 Herders. 49.18 54.18 41.44 66.66 62.70 59.42 33.03 58.04 64.34 60.85 64.64 62.40 Extra labor. 49.38 55.13 37.20 65.70 62.72 63.02 32.72 67.87 62.13 67.54 66.61 Number of sheep to one maiL 867 1,355 897 1,399 1,788 1,088 756 1,418 1,247 1,100 1,112 50.37 1,119 The wide variations are due to several factors, one of which is the different nationaUty of employees. This affects both wages proper and food costs. In the Southwest, for example, where Mexican labor is employed, the average monthly wages of a nerder range from about $22 to $35, and the cost of his food ranges from about $11 to $14, making a total average monthly charge of from about $33 to $49 ; whereas in Idaho the average monthly wages of a herder are about $48 and the cost of his food $18, making a total charge of about $66. Owing, however, to the greater efficiency of American labor, the actual difference in the labor costs is much less than the figures indicate. Labor costs are also affected by the local demand for labor in other industries, which varies from region to region; and a third factor affecting comparative labor costs is the varying cost of freighting provisions from the nearest railroad. It mav be stated that in general it is difficult for flock owners to secure the necessary labor, owing partly to the general scarcity of labor and partly to the hardships of life on the range under existing conditions, and that they are therefore forced to pay high wages and to meet the demands of the men with regard to the quahty of their board. The conditions of the range are such that with the exception of mutton, provisions must usually be bought; and owing to the nomadic life of the herder, supervision of supplies is difficult and there is much waste. 840 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Since the system under which sheep are run in Australia and South America differs radically from that employed in the United States, the classes of laborers there employed are not strictly comparable to those of this country. In both these countries superintendents form a distinct class and their average salaries are higher than in the United States. The work done by the boundary riders roughly corresponds to that done in this country by the camp tenders and herders, and the station hands correspond m a general way to the ranch hands. In neither Australia nor South America is extra labor required at lamb- ing time. In Austraha the average monthly wages, including food and lodg- ing, of boundary riders are about $40, and those of station hands about $40 to $50. Of these amounts, about $20 represents in each case the charge for board, which is, on an average, about the same in Australia as m the United States. The wages of native laborers, whom the Austrahan flock owners are sometunes forced to employ, are decidedly below these averages; but such labor is uncertain and inefficient and does not play an important r61e. In South America the labor costs are less than in Australia because of the employment of much native labor, which is fairly efficient. Not only are the average wages lower, but on account of the compara- tively low standard of living of the natives, the cost of their food and lodging is only about half as much as in the United States and Australia. Under our shepherding system much more labor is required than under the paddock svstem, and the unfavorable range conditions of the United States still further increase the amount of labor required. Whereas in Australia and South America the cost of the actual labor of caring for the sheep is merely nominal, in the United States, on the other hand, this item alone is a heavy burden, constituting about $0.48 of the $0.82, which is the average total labor charge per head. Most of the large free ranges of the early days of western sheep raising have been broken up by the coming of the homesteader; and in order to utilize the free range remaimng the flock owner must now run liis sheep in comparatively small bands. Furthermore, the land policy of the United States has been unfavorable to the holding of large tracts of land, and therefore grazing land belonging to flock owners or leased by them from the State or from private parties often consists of scattered sections. Furthermore, the grazing lands are, as a rule, the waste parts of the country, mountainous, semiarid, and producing but scant herbage, and are, to a great extent, fit only for sheep grazing. Thus, while forage may be obtained free or at a low cost, the remoteness of the grazing lands, the nomadic nature of the grazing, the scarcity of water, the danger of predatory animals, and the constant need of care to prevent trespassing, necessitate an expenditure for labor so great as almost entirely to overshadow the advantage of the cheap forage. Owing to these conditions the number of men required in the United States for the direct care of sheep — that is, the number of herders and camp tenders— has for some years steadily increased, until at present one man is required for about 1,000 sheep, whereas one boundary rider can attend to 10,000 to 20,000 sheep in Australia and 10,000 to 15,000 in South America, according to the carrying capacity of the land; and in those regions of South America where the shep- REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 341 herding system is in vogue, the large open ranges make it possible for one man to care for about 5,000 sheep. In the United States an extra force of men must, moreover, be employed for from four to six weeks at lambing time. These men receive about the usual wages of herders, and since the average number employed is approximately 3 per 1,000 breeding ewes, the extra-labor charge is a serious one. As no extra labor is required at lambing time in either Australia or South America, the flock owners of these countries escape this expense. It is difficult to compare the costs of miscellaneous labor in the three countries because the items are not always comparable. The groportion which these costs constitute of the total labor costs is, owever, much lower in the United States than in either Austraha or South America. But the average charge per head for miscella- neous labor in the United States is greater tnan the average total labor charge in either of the other two countries. The seemingly heavier total expense for labor in South America as compared with Australia is partially explained by the fact that the costs of hauling wool to the coast in the former country are included under labor, while in the latter this expense has been included under miscellaneous expenses. The causes of the comparatively high costs of labor in the United States may be summarized as: (1) The great amount of labor required owing (a) to the shei> herding system, which necessitates the employment of much more labor than the paddock system — so much more, indeed, that the Australian flock owner estimates that by means of the latter system he can, in ^ve years, save his entire costs of fencing — and (6) to unfavorable climatic and range conditions, and (2) The high rate of wages. COMPARATIVE FORAGE COSTS. The "costs of forage" comprise the costs of all feed consumed by the sheep, including harvested crops. These costs amount, approxi- mately, on an average per head of sheep, to $0.45 in the Western States, $0.08 in Australia, and $0.35 in South America. In the United States forage costs vary widely from region to region, owing to the varying extent of the public lands and the varying supply of winter grazing. In the Southwest there are great semiarid wastes on which grazing for sheep may be obtained, either free or at a very low charge, and where, owing to the mild climate, the grazing ^^sts throughout the year and no winter feeding is necessary. In the neighborhood of the national forests, moreover, flock owners can obtain excellent grazing at rates which, in comparison with those obtaining m regions where the grazing must be done on private lands and where competition has, in many cases, forced grazing values to a high level, are merely nominal. But the grazing in the national vm!^ ^^ usually confined to a few summer months. When grazing lands were more abundant it was the custom to set aside large tracts for winter grazing, and harvested crops were seldom led to either sheep or horses. But as the settlement of the country Has made winter range more and more difficult to secure, the feeding Of harvested crops for some months of the year has gradually become o^A BEPORT OF TABBPF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 'ON SCHEDUIiE K. 348 tlie rule in ^e Northwest, where the cost of winter feeding now over- shadows that of summer grazing, constituting about $0.74 out o£ about $0.94, which is the average total amount of forage costs per head in the Northwest. In the Southwest, however, except in periods of drought, harvested crops are not fed to a great extent except to rams and animals used in caring for the sheep, and the cost of such crops constitutes only 5 to 8 cents out of the 20 cents which is approxi- mately the average total amount per head of forage costs in the South- west. And in the entire region the average cost of winter feeding constitutes 32 cents out of the 45 cents, which is the average total amount of forage costs per head. It should, however, be noted that a part of this increase in the cost of winter feeding represents improved flock husbandry and a material reduction of the risKs. Forage costs are low in AustraUa on account of the abundance of public lands, which it is the policy of the Government to lease in large tracts for long terms and at low rates. Since the Australian flock industry depends mainly on such lands, forage costs on freehold lands have not been considered in computing the averages given. In Aus- tralia harvested crops are not usually fed. The great disadvantage of South America, as compared with Aus- tralia, in the matter of forage costs, is attributable to the fact that the sheep are often grazed on valuable land which is suitable for agricul- ture, although, m the unsettled regions, flock owners can still secure grazing lands on exceedingly favorable terms, in which case sheep live on the range the year around, and forage charges are nominal. COMPARATIVE RECEIPTS. The receipts from the flock comprise receipts from wool and receipts from other sources. Receipts from other sources include receipts from the sale of sheep and lambs, either for mutton or for breeding purposes, the value or the lambs unsold, and receipts from the sale of pelts, tallow, etc. It should be borne in mind that these receipts con- sist mainly of receipts from mutton and that therefore any discus- sion of the receipts from other sources is reallv a discussion of the receipts from mutton. This is especially true of the United States. The average total receipts per nead for the flocks under examina- tion in the Western States was $2.56. It is estimated that the corre- sponding figure for Australia would normally be about $2.23 and for South America about $2.12. The average receipts from wool in our western flocks was about $1.17, or approximately 45.7 per cent of the total receipts per head. In Australia these are estimated at about $1.31, or approximately 58.7 per cent of the total, and in South America at about $1.28, or approxi- mately 60.4per cent of the total. In the Western States the average weight of the total clip per head of mature sheep is about 7.3 pounds and the average price per pound, delivered at the nearest shipping point, was about $0.16, so that the average value of wool per nead of sheep shorn was $1.17. No allowance is here made for the cost of haulage to the railroad, since this has already been included under operating costs. The figures usually quoted for the average weight of the clip per head and the average price of wool per pound in Australia are not strictly comparable to those given for the United States. The average weight of the fleece of a mature sheep in Australia is probably slightly less than 8 pounds, but lamb's wool, which constitutes about 5 per cent of the total clip, is included with the clip of the mature sheep, making the average clip per head of all sheep and lambs shorn about 7J pounds. Whereas in the United States one price is quoted for the entire fleece, in Australia the wool is carefully sorted and the best part — the '* fleece" — is baled and sold separately and the price usually quoted is that of this superior wool, which, under the most favorable con- ditions, probably constitutes not more than 80 per cent and on an average probably from 60 to 70 per cent of the total clip. Of the part removed from the "fleece," known as the "skirtings," a portion, constituting about 10 per cent of the entire clip, is scoured, and this scoured wool is often included with the unscoured in the export statistics of Australian wool. In Australia the average price per pound net to the grower is estimated at about $0.18, making the average price per head of sheep and lambs shorn $1.31. The cost of haulage and railway freights are included in operating expenses. In South America the average weight of the clip per head is about 7i pounds, and the average price per pound, delivered at the sea- board, is about $0.17, so that the average receipts from wool per head of sheep shorn are about $1.28. Haulage charges are included under operating costs. The average expense per head of sheep is about $2.11 in our western flocks, about $0.93 in Australia, and about $1.15 in South America. Hence, if the only receipts were those from wool, the cost of wool would be about $0.29 in the United States, and as the aver- age selling price is about $0.16, there would be a loss of about $0.13 per pound; in Australia the cost of wool would be approximately $0.13, and as the average selling price is about $0.18, there would be a profit of about $0.05 per pound; and in South America the cost of wool would be approximately $0.15, and as the average selling price is about $0.17, there would be a profit of about $0.02 per pound; and since, in the Western States, the capital per head of sheep is approximately $5.30, there would be a loss of about 2.5 per cent on the capital invested; in Australia, on the basis of a capital invest- ment of approximately $6.07 per head, there would be a gain of eight-tenths of 1 per cent; and in South America, with a capital investment of $4 per head, there would be a gain of five-tenths of 1 per cent. MUTTON AN IMPORTANT FACTOR. These figures indicate that under present conditions sheep raising can not be profitably carried on for the sake of the wool alone; and that if the industry is to prosper, the receipts from mutton must cover a large part of the costs. The loss incurred in exclusive wool production is the result of two causes: (1) The gradual encroach- ment of agriculture on grazing lands and the consequent great increase m the costs of sheep growing; and (2) the gradual decline of wool values. The decline in the profits of wool production has, however, been accompanied by an increase in the demand for mutton, resulting from the fact that the production of pork and beef has not kept pace 844 RBPOBT OF TABrfP BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. with the growth of population. And at the same time the develop- ment of refrigerating facilities has made it possible for the flock owners of countries which, like Australia and South America, are far from the centers of population, to market their mutton. The extent of the increase in mutton consumotion is mdicated by the statistics of receipts of sheep, cattle, and hogs m the Chicago stockyards during the last 40 years. In 1870 there were received, in round numbers, 350,000 sheep, 533,000 cattle, and 1,690,000 hogs; in 1880, 336,000 sheep, 1,382,000 cattle, and 7,060,000 hogs; in 1890, 2,180,000 sheep, 3,484,000 cattle, and 7,660,000 hogs; in 1900, 3 550,000 sheep, 2,729,000 cattle, and 8,109,000 hogs; and m 1910, 5 229,000 sheep, 3,053,000 cattle, and 5,587,000 hogs; and it is^esti- mated that in 1911 there will have been received 5,668,000 sheep, 2,920,000 cattle, and 7,031,000 hogs. The receipts of cattle reached a maximum m 1892 and since then have gradually declined. Ihe receipts of hogs reached a maximum in 1898 and have undergone a sharp decline since that year. But the number of sheep received has constantly and rapidly increased, havmg passed the receipts from cattle in 1894 and being, at the present time, almost equal to the receipts of hogs. These figures are embodied m the foUowmg table: Sheep Cattle Hogs. 1«70 350,000 533,000 1,690,000 1880 336,000 1,382,000 7,060,000 1890 2,180,000 3,484,000 7,660,000 1900 3.550,000 2,729,000 8,109,000 1910 5,229,000 3,053,000 6,587,000 1911 (efltlmated). 5,668,000 2,920,000 7,031,000 This movement is shown somewhat more in detail by the chart which will be found on page 345. But these figures do not fully mdicate the mcrease in the receipts of mutton as compared with those of beef and pork, smce the average weight of sheep has been increasing, while that of cattle and hogs respectively has declined. , . ^i. tt -x j c* * The annual consumption of sheep and lambs m the United btates at the present time is thought to he about 17,000 000 head, repre- senting a total weight of about 630,000^000 pounds. The average weight of the lambs marketed at Chicago is about 70 pounds and that of mature sheep about 100 pounds, and they dress about 50 per cent and 48 per cent, respectively. The important place which mutton holds to-day among meats is further shown by the fact that m the vear 1910 Great Britain imported, principally from Australia and South America, 589,000,000 pounds of refngerated mutton and 16,832,704 pounds of preserved mutton, makmg a total of 605,8^-^,704 ^^The receipts from other sources amount approximately on an aver- age per head to $1.39 in the Western States, $0.93 in Australia, and 3^.84 in South America, and constitute approxmiately m the United States 54.3 per cent, in Australia 41.3 per cent, and m South America 39.6 per cent of the total receipts. And they cover approxmiately in the United States 65.9 per cent, in Austraha 98.9 per cent, and m South America 73 per cent of the total costs. , . , . ^, . That receipts from other sources are largely derived from the sale of mutton is attributable to the fact that for some years the sheep BEPORT OP TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 345 jii-t»« s « « tt Q S • • • « • « • « *^ • * • • • o « « « o • « e s 1 t. « >« • if •»- •J* N %^ %- >- Q < lii H •^t0m 346 BBPOBT OF TABTFF BOABD ON SCHEDT7LE K. industry of our western region has not been expanding; indeed, dur- Sg^ast 18 months fc has been a sharp ^^^^^fj^^^^'^l number of sheep. A laree percentage, rangmg normally from 70 per ^^ to 80 per ^nt, of the sheep annuaUy placed on the market are kmbs Wuse it d°V°^^ topar^itic dis^ales Sh thrflpm»n-i= f *r °^ breeding ewes, is m turn enabled to meet the demands of the market for both wool and mutton. in Australia a similar connection exists between the OTowera of '"Th?ff^lfP !f^*^" flock owners who lay stress on mutt^ tRjnin., r=\i^*'"'*T **' T?^ country must bear the burden of main- taming Its mermo foundation and there is a decided limit to iSe po^ibTe mcrease of the receipts from mutton, by 'WW-" i p If the process is carried bevond a certain point the consequent'deteri- oration of the ouality of tte wool and uniting of tChlep for thSr ^d Son* ^^ *''°"' * ''"'''"^ ^ *^" production of tt wool thJwIfri^'i?/*"* rfiows the importance of the merino blood in .•„ *!, fl r° S^'^tes, as indicated by the statistics of the breeds in use in the flocks covered by our schedules: "J«eu8 m use Arizona CaJafomia Colorado Idaho Montana Nevada New Mexico Oregon Utah Washinjjton.. Wyoming The importance of the merino blood in the trhree crreat wool. Foducmg States of AustraHa is indicated by the foUowinri^rlent In New South Wales about 85 ner cent of the rams and 90 per cent of the ewes are pure meripos. 6f the remaining sheep whfie some crossbred with a menno foundation, f n Victoria, which is tL chief muttpn-producing district of Australia, 84 per cent of all the ^^^ m Queensland 96 per cent of the sheep are pure merinos. COSTS m NEW ZEALAND. fhl^ ?!®T ^^^^"^ ^^? ^^e^^e costs of flock husbandry are higher than m Austraha, owing to the fact that the industiy is partiX ^imo^li^rT"'^^^ ^>^ Pr^ agriculture, andThe sEeep ^I run upon lands of comparatively high value U.JL l^^^^f.^l® ^f the climatic conditions of New Zealand that, while large quantities of special crops are grown for sheep, no winter fe^in| ifl necessary. For this reason and as a result of the exceUent natural S-asses and the system of rotation employed, the forage costs, on an fverage for New Zealand as a whole, though much ^ig^er tha,n m Australia, are lower than in the western Umted Stat^ and about the same as in South America. . r, i j xi,„„ :« The average miscellaneous costs are lower m New Zealand than m Australia. Although the New Zealand flocks are somewhat more sub- iect to disease, the losses from this cause are kept at a low level by careful flock husbandry; and owing to the equable climate, the losses from other causes are also low. Haulage and freight charges are much lower than in Australia, on account of the shorter distances to the markets, and in consequence of the stress laid on mutton and of a system of management by which mature sheep are culled from the flock whUe still fit for good mutton, the rate of depreciation on the ^Th^aveSgr total receipts from the flock are hiffher in New Zealand than in Australia, and the same statement holds good of both the receipts from wool and the receipts from other sources. While in Austraha the predominant type of sheep is the menno m New Zea- land the greater emphasis is placed on mutton, and most of the sheep are crossbreds. But owing to the exceedingly favorable climate, the average fleece is not only considerably larger than m Austraha, but also of such a quaUty that the average price received for the wool of these sheep is not greatly below that of the Australian merino. It is probable that the average price for all the New Zealand wool is higher than the average price for all the Australian wool. Moreover, the rate of increase is considerably higher, the difference amounting, accordmg to some authorities, to 20 per cent. ,. . . i Owing to the type of sheep kept, to the excellent natural grassy, and to Uie extensive growing of special crops for fattemng sheep, the mutton of New Zealand surpasses that of Austraha both m quantity per head of sheep and in quality. The average receipts from other sources are therefore so much higher as to leave Httle room for doubt that despite the considerably higher costs of production, these receipts cover all expense; so that under favorable conditions there should be Httle, it any, charge against wool. COMPARATIVE COSTS SUMMARIZED. It now becomes possible to make a reasonably close comparison as to the relative positions of the flock owners of the Western States and those of the chief competing countries. The conclusion can not be escaped that our western growers are operatmg under substan- tially higher costs than their South American competitors and that the average net charge against the great wool clips of Austraha and New Zealand under prevailing prices for stock sheep is near the vanishing point. . . , The average receipts per head in the case of the operations studied m detail by our agents in the Western States is found to be $2.56. While we can not undertake to name with equal confidence the cor- responding figure for Australia, it is perfectly plain that a return of about $2.20 per head is common in that country at this time and that in South America the receipts average about $2.10 per head. The American return of $2.56, less $2.11 operating costs, leaves aa 850 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTJL.E K. 351 w the net American receipts 45 cents per head per annum. The Aus- traUan figure quoted above, less the operatmg costs, which have been estimated at about 95 cents, leaves as the possible net return of the more fortunately situated Austrahan grower $1.25 per head per annum. In South America, with an average expense of about $1.15 per head, the countries investigated mdicate a return of 97 cents per head per annum. , , . , j.- c u+«„«f;«« ^ There remains, therefore, only the smiple operation of subtractmg from the flock expenses the receipts from other sources than wool, to reveal the fact that as against a clearly demonstrated f^t charge against the western American wool of from 10 to 11 cents, there la probably not more than 4 to 5 cents per pound against the bouth American chp; and, if the season is normal and the sheep market steady, Uttle; if any, charge against ^he Austrahan. Indeed weU managed stations in many parts of Australia are showing at the present time a profit before any wools are sold. It is not safe to assume, however, that the more remote runs are domg so well, and there is always the possibihty of paralyzing droughts. An agent of the board, whose extended report on general Aus- tralian conditions is filed herewith, says, touching this pomt: Th« flock owners whose sales of surplus stock yield, in normal years, an income sufficient to paTth^ worSng expenseeS their nms'are mostly occupiers of land within 300 miles of a port. A leadmg grower gave an agent of the board figures from a rm m the low rainfall district-known a^ ^drv country^-m New South W^^^^ about 290 mUes from Sydney marW. He kept 50,000 sheep and sold a mixed lot of 8,000 every year at an average pnce of 6s. per Head. His return from this surplus wa^ therefore £2,400 per year, a sum suf- ficient to cover about two-thirds of his workm^ expenses. fc>mce he had this experience, several years ago, the market price of sheep has advanced L a result of the increased exports of frozen mutton. -But remember,'' he remarks, -that such %«8 ^^^^/^^f^J^^ years of normal rainfall. Even a small drought m that district would leave the sheep in too poor a condition for the market. This qualification is generaUy applicable to the stock trade m all of the larger sheep distficts of Australia. Statements similar to the above are made by two other prominent owners with regard to returns from surplus stoct in Queensland and Western Aus^j;«l^*^% -^"/^^^^^^ say that in good years, and on well-managed runs, the sales of sheep & enough to pay workmg expenses One of these anticipates that m view of the increasmg exports of Australian mutton and lamb, the surplus station stock wiS in future years give an annual return considerably in excess of the amount of the workm^ expenses-- ^^Xg that no large addition is made to the cost of labor m the "^iTS Hght, therefore, of the best mformation to be obtamed, the board believes that at the present time the enth-e Australian output 5f mer^o and crossbred wool (interest being left out of account, as S the^e of the United States) is moving to market, under present receipts from sales of sheep, with a net average charge of but a few cents per pound; and this estimate apparently holds good of New Zealand and the African Cape as well. RAIL AND OCEAN FREIGHTS ON RAW WOOLS. A very appreciable element in the cost of wool in the United States grows out of the great distance separating the chief producers from the important centers of the cloth industry. The amount of wool that is scoured before being shipped is negligible; therefore, though the railroads quote rates for scoured wool they are of little practical im- portance, and it is the rate on greasy wool that concerns the industry. The accompanying diagram, based so far as United States rail freights are concerned upon a chart prepared by Mr. John T. Mar- chand for the Interstate Commerce Commission, gives at a glance the cost of shipping wool in the grease to Boston. It shows that from the Pacific coast terminals the rate is $1 on a hundred pounds, and that from other points the rate is made by various combinations. From the interior the rate ranges from $1.72 J at Colorado common points to $2.13, the latter rate prevailing at the great majority of the points from which wool is sliipped; $2 a hundred pounds is believed to be a fair estimate for the average cost of transportation of grease wool from the West to Boston. Two elements enter into the cost of transportation of foreign wool landed in the United States: First, the rate from the interior to the seaboard ; second, the ocean rate to America. In Australia the rate on grease wool to the seaboard varies greatly in the different Provinces, as is shown by the following statement prepared in terms of American money by an agent of the Tariff Board: NEW SOUTH WALES. Cents per 100 lbs. 190 miles $0. 52i 336 miles 66| 460 miles 73 464 miles 73J 608 miles 75^ VICTORIA. Cents p» 100 lbs. 150 miles $0.46| 200 miles 53i 250 miles 60* 300 miles 671 400 miles 80| SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Cents per 100 lbs. 150 miles $0. 47i 200 miles ,. 6l| 300 miles 85f 400 miles 1, 07| 500 miles 1. 26f WESTERN AUSTRALIA. Cents per 100 lbs. 225 miles $0. 7l§ 330 miles 9o| 400 miles 1. 12f 600 miles i.48| 852 REPOBT OF TAIOTT BOABD OH SCHEDULE K. Quotations of rates on grease wool in Queensland are lacking, but the rate on scoured wool is much higher than in the other Provinces. With rates varying so widely, it is impossible to do more than approximate the average cost of transpoytmg the Australian clip to the seaboard. The most that can be said is that an estimate of 90 cents per hundred would probably not be far from right, from shearing pens to dock, or an average of between 65 and 70 cents per 100 pounds for the railroad rate to dock, allowing about 20 or 25 cents per 100 pounds for wagon haul from pens to railroad platform. Little wool comes to this country direct from Australia. For such as did come direct during 1909-1911, the rates from Melbourne and Sydney were from $1.37i to $1.70i, which would make the cost of transportation from the Australian producer to Boston range be- tween $1.84 J and $3,191, with a probable average of between $2 and $2.50. Most of the Australian wool consumed in this country comes via London, and the rates over this route have fluctuated widely. Thus Dalgety's Wool Review reports the average rate from Australia to European ports during the busy season of 1908-9 as 50 cents a hundred^ pounds; in 1909 the rate varied between $1 and $1.25 a hundred, and in 1910 between 50 cents and $1.50. From English ports in former years rates were subject to frequent fluctuations, and have been as low as 5 shillings a ton, but in the recent past there have been fewer cuts. During the years 1904-1 907, inclusive, the average rate from London paid by an important Ameri- can consumer was 24 cents a hundred pounds plus 10 shillings a ton ''shipping charges." Since then the ''shipping charges^' have remained the same, while the average rate for four years has risen, according to the books of the same consumer, to 30 cents a hundred. The rate quoted bv the White Star Line in October, 1911, on greasy wool in heavy bales was 30 shillings per long ton plus 5 per cent primage; but the records of the port of New York sliow that during the year enduig June 30, 1911, that line landed in New York from England 3,497,424 pounds, at an average rate of 15 shilling per ton. When to the rates from Australia to London and from London to Boston are added certain payments for transshipment, net delivery, railage, stamp duties, and other items, it appears that the cost of transportation over this route approximates tne cost over the direct route from Melbourne to Sydney. From some South American points the direct ocean rates on wool are relatively few. Steamship agents quote $2 to $2.50 per ton of 40 cubic feet from Buenos Aires. South American wool is packed in bales of 35 to 40 cubic feet, weighing 1,100 to 1,300 pounds. The rate, therefore, ranges from Hi to 23i cents a hundred pounds. The costs of transportation in the ulterior of South America vary within wide limits. Wool reaches Buenos Aires from points on the Rio Uruguay at a little more than 22 cents a hundred, while the trans- portation thither by rail from Neu^en costs over $1 a hundred. Quotations from 18 other interior pomts show an average rate of 50 cents. Further south the rates are very uncertain. From the interior of the Territory of Chubut, Argentina, the agent of the Tariff Board found that woof had to be hauled to the coast by ox teams, at a cost of from $3 to $7 a hundredweight. fttGLMftO. DIAGRAM SHOWING FREIGHTS ON GREASE WOOL, BY SEA AND RAILROAD. TO BOSTON. MASS. [Compiled from data from Interstute Conmierce Commission and other sources. Mileaga on coast terminals based upon coast points. Others on capitals of States. El Paso and Fort Worth, Tex., actual distances. All rates quoted are based upon 100-i>ound shipments.] BEPOET OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDtrL.E K. 353 The accompanying diagram shows raU and ocean freights on raw wools. WOOLGKOWING IN THE EASTERN UNITED STATES. For the purpose of this investigation the region east of the Missis- sippi Rive? ^regarded as comisting of three parts-the upper XWppi Valley; the region which adjoins this on the east, with the KoTShio as Its centir; and the Atlantic coast region, including New England and the highlands of certain Southern States. In theSlississippi Valfey there is not much waste land and com- parativelv httle permanent pasture, most of the land bemg cropped m LtS Hence, gracing is^not forced upon the farmers by naturd SndWons ^d c'al be carried on only \n sharp competition with ^'inthe'^S Ohio Valley, however, there is a considerable percent- age of roiXland not so weU adapted to tillage, which the owners Kally SfeX keep under grass. Here, therefore, sheep raising h^to c^oSte for the^most.plrt not with g«««'-'^» ^^'^^"^ti* with other lorms of stock raising. In vanous parts of this re^on, ^g t^ the difficulty of gro^g harvested crops, some form of pastoral husbandry seems a necessity. tt^;*.^ ^t«fp« fhn Tr. ttio Piirlipr davs of sheep growing m the United btates, tne JusS wa^^l^^^^^^^^^ £-t, The-fertne tossrpm Valley was and still is mainly devoted to gram growmg, and the feed- CT battle and hogs, butVith the gro^^K^?^^^^^^ ?^P"iSi ^ep raising became more prominent in the Middle West and small foZ w^iept by many f a^rmers. Merinos were largely in evidence at one time in^dSerent^ections, but the decHning price of wool and the growmg demand for mutton led to the general introduction of the mutton types of sheep. Subsequent experience, however, seems to have sho^that sheep carrying some merino blood are Marcher and better adapted to ordinary f armmg conditions, so that while many pure-bred mutton flocks are to be found, crossbred sheep are the rule. Even a greater change in this regard has taken place m New ii.ng- land and the other sheep-raising sections of the eastern region once noted for fine merino flocks. Here the f alhng wool pnces and growing demand for mutton, together with proximity to good lamb mark^^^^^^^ inevitably resulted in a change from wool to mutton This was for the most part accomplished by replacmg the mennos mth sheep of the English type, and while there has been some crossbreeding the menno bl^d plays a less prominent r6le in this region than m the Mississippi VaUey. So strong has the emphasis on mutton become among the growers of the Atlantic States that "hot-house lambs and the grow- mg of distinctively mutton sheep has replaced woolgrowmg m dis- tricts once famous for fine fleeces. v i . -, ^ :„ During the earUer years of the mdustry there was shght denaanci m the United States for mutton, whereas fine wools were m high favor and sold for large prices. This led to the breedmg of the famous American merino, for the sake of its heavy fleece and with httle regard to fitness of the carcass for mutton, and extraordinary sheep were produced. There are recorded examples of rams that sheared as much as 48 pounds (probably of more than 12 months growtn) of a heavy-conditioned wool that might scour no more than 25 per cent to 30 per cent of clean wool. The ra^e for the very heavy fleeces waa 32080°— H. Doc. 342. 62-2. vol 1 ^23 S54 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 355 intensified by the fact that owing, perhaps, to the flocks being rather small it was the custom of wool buyers to pay a nearly uniform price for the wool clips of a county. ITiis put a premium on heavy wools and placed the man producmg wools of light shrinkage at a disad- vantage. A certain amount of oil is necessary to a strong merino wool Sber. Breeders no doubt overestimated its importance, how- ever, and there were yeaiB when Ohio wools, thougn of very high quality, were of heavier shrink than was desirable. In the Ohio region, while the depression in wool prices led some growers to replace their small merinos with sheep of tne Enghsh type Ind these eventuaUy with crossbred sheep, many, however, at- tempted to meet the situation by means of an improved merino type of steep. This led to the introduction of the French Kamboumet and the development from our own small merino, of the Black Top and various Delaine types. On account of their hardiness, their apparently greater resistance to the parasites which infest permanent pastures in this climate and their ability to live mainly on ordinary forage, with a minimum amount of the more expensive harvested crops, these types are well adapted to the peculiar conditions of the Ohio region as a whole and consequently they are in high favor among the growers of this section. Another mfluence which contributed to produce this result was the demand from the West for merino breed- ing stock. The improved merinos now predominate in this section, although there are many growers scattered through the region who are raising crossbred sheep and also many who continue to Iteep the smaller merinos. The paramount importance of the merino m this region is indicated by the character of the wool produced in tile State of Ohio, and in adjacent sections of Pennsylvania and West Vir^ia. In the "fine" woolgrowing section of Ohio, which is the more hilly part of the State, comprising most of the eastern portion of Coshoc- ton County, the southern part of Tuscarawas County, JeflPerson, Harrison, Carroll, Guernsev, Muskingum, Noble, Monroe, Washing- ton, Morgan, Athens, and Meigs Counties, the number of sheep producing "medium" wool has, according to the statements of leaa- mg dealers, steadily decreased during the last 10 years, so that at the present time it is said that not more than 5 per cent of the wool produced in this section grades below "fine medium." In the "mixed" section, which may be said to comprise Medina, Wayne, Holmes, Coschocton, Licking, Fairfield, Ferry, Franklin. Delaware, Knox, Morrow, Richland, Marion, Crawford, Ashland, Huron, Wyandot, and Union Counties (and which is better adapted for general agriculture than the "fine" section), the fine wool still makes up the bulk of the clip, possibly from 60 to 65 per cent; the rest being "medium." In the third or "medium" section, comprising the remaining wool- growing counties of the State, the medium wools probably constitute 75 per cent of the total chp. The board's investigation was mainly confined to the "fine" and "mixed " sections of the Ohio region, wliich included adjacent parts of Pennsylvania and West Virginia, and certain counties of southern Michigan. The results clearly differentiate three types of flocks: (1) Crossbred flocks producing a good medium fleece and showing receipts from other sources, chiefly mutton, which are sufficient or i nearly sufficient to cover the cost of maintaining the flock; (2) pure- bred or high grade flocks of improved merinos, producing a somewhat heavier chp of superior wool and showing receipts from other sources which, although usually not sufficient to cover the costs of mainte- nance, are in many cases large enough to afford the grower a fair profit, and (3) flocks that produce a lighter fleece and show receipts from other sources which are far from sufficient to cover the costs of maintenance; so that as the receipts from wool are not large enough to cover the flock expense, the industry seems to be carried on either at a very narrow margin or, in many cases, at a decided loss. Whatever the special type of merino utilized, the majority of the growers of merino sheep m the Ohio region are placing the chief emphasis on wool production. This is clear from an examination of the accompanying tables. Before the study made of the financial results attending these operations is presented, the method of arriving at comparable results should be explained. METHODS OF COMPUTING COSTS IN OHIO REGION. In this district, since the flock industry is intimately bound up with other farming operations, it is in general impossible to determine the amount of the mvestment for sheep alone. In the case of pasture lands owned by the woolgrower the grazing value as determmed by the prevailing local rent is charged to the flock. This is based on the value of the land for grazing and not on its possible value for other purposes. In instances where the aftermath of meadows, other secondary crops, or crops grown especially for sheep have been used as pasturage the grazing value is charged. Where sheep and other animals are grazed together, charges have been apportioned between the sheep and other animals according to their respective consumption of forage. No accurate estimate of the investment in buildings for housing sheep is possible. Such buUdings vary widely in value, and except in the case of special sheep sheds are often used for other animals as well. Similarly, no accurate apportionment can be made of the investment in buildings for the housing of crops, and therefore no attempt has been made to fix a flat rate of depreciation on buildings of either class. After full consideration of aU the facts bearing upon this point an annual charge of 20 cents for each mature sheep was allowed to cover expense arising from the depreciation of such build- ings and equipment as might be required to meet the necessities of the flock. All miscellaneous expenses incurred exclusively for sheep, such as expense for taxes, insurance, salt, etc., are charged to the nocks. The value of the harvested crops fed to the sheep has been esti- mated in two different ways and the results presented in parallel columns. By the method commonly used by most farmers the sheep are charged with the market value of the crops, as representing the price wmch they would have brought the owner had ne sold them and which he would have had to pay had he been obliged to buy them. Probably most of these flock owners, however, grow sucn* harvested crops as they feed to their sheep, and since the allow- ance of the market price may involve either a profit or a loss on 356 HBPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUUE K. 857 their production it is deemed fairer to use the actual cost of growing the haj and grain in order to eliminate intermediate profits or losses. By this method the sheep are charged only with the cost of raising these crops in the locality concerned during the year under con- sideration. This was determined by an investigation by the Bureau of Statistics of the United States Department of Agriculture, and the figures so compiled are used in the subjoined tabulations. Since the eastern flock owner usually meets the deterioration of his flock hj replacing unserviceable sheep from the increase and since the period of service of both breeding ewes and rams varies widely, no attempt has been made to fix a flat rate of depreciation on either ewes or rams. No aUowance is made for lambs which are retained in the flock to maintain its original standard and receipts from sales of culled ewes are credited. Aflowance is made for the amount of the regular annual losses as reported on the individual schedules, but with the deduction in the case of losses by dogs of any compensation received from public authorities. Sheep render a useful service by keeping a farm free of weeds, and the fertilizing value of the flock is so universally conceded that farmers generaS? agree that these two items offset the ordinaiy farm labor involved in caring for the sheep. Hence no charge is made under that head. Shearing costs, however, are allowed under misceDaneous expenses. Interest is usually figured as a part of production cost in such operations, but as rates are not uniform it gives a fairer basis of com- pensation to omit any charge on that account, leaving that item for the consideration of each individual as bearing upon the question of his profit rather than his cost. It w3l be observed that strikingly different results are obtained by the two methods of charging up hay and grain, ranging up to 18 cents per pound on the wool. The result obtained by the usual method repre- sents the real cost to the man who buys aJl his grain and hay. The costs of those who buy some forage to supplement the home-grown crops fed to the sheep would fall somewhere between the two cost columns presented. The fact that many growers continue in the business in the face of an apparent loss, as computed on the basis of market values of crops fed, is in a measure explained by the tabulation of pro- duction cost of grain and hay. A measure of profit is clearly being reaped in the case of the market value compilation by selling grain and h&j to the flock at a material advance over the actual cost of production. Corn that was grown, for example, at a cost of 35 cents may be charged to the flock by the former method at a price of 65 cents. Strictly speaking, pasturi^ also should be charged only at cost of production, but there is no known method of determining such cost. Hence the value rather than the cost in that case is the only obtainable figure. The tables v/hich follow show the results of the investigation made by agents of the Tariff Board into the management of 543 different farm flocks, 408 of which were of straight merino breeding and 135 crossed with rams of a mutton type. I K4 \ The first six of these tables have been made on a basis of the net charge against a pound of merino wool, while the seventh gives the statistics for crossbred sheep. Table XIII includes those cases in which the net charge against wool is 35 cents a pound or over. Table XIV shows those cases in which the net charge is 30 cents and under 35 cents. Table XV, those in which it is 25 cents and under 30 cents. Table XVI, those in which it is 20 cents and under 25 cents. Table XVII, those in which it is under 20 cents, and Table XVIII, those in which there is a net credit to wool. Table XIX, those in which there is an average net credit of 2 cents per pound. PRODUCTION OP MERINO WOOL IN REPRESENTATIVE EASTERN DISTRICTS. Table XIII. — Net charge against wool per pound 35 cents and upward. [Interest on investment not included.] Net charge Receipts. Exi)ense on basis of— against wool per pound on oasis of— Pounds of wool. Grade of wool. SeU- ing price I)er Num- ber of sheep. Average Mar- ket price of grain Aver- age cost of pro- duc- tion fit Ex- pense per head. From wool. From other sources. Total. Market price of grain and hay. cost of produc- tion of CTain pound. **^o,i. * and hay. axjvK hay. grain and hay. 102 976 1,822 XX XX $214. 50 610. 16 $214.50 720.31 $468.59 1,377.57 $337.84 1,030.07 $0.48 .64 $0.35 .44 $0.22 .28 $3.31 464 "S2i6.'i6' 2.22 350 2,000 XX 600.00 25.00 625.00 1,124.66 847.45 .55 .41 .30 2.42 400 2,600 XX 754.00 137.50 891.50 1,652.98 1,048.48 .58 .35 .29 2.62 79 290 XX 58.00 59.00 117.00 236.43 176. 18 .61 .40 .20 2.23 606 2,000 X 450.00 450.00 1,096.41 885.12 .54 .44 .22J 1.46 200 1,141 900 X XX 330.89 252.00 330.89 332.00 767. 86 655.25 449.47 469.65 .67 .64 .39 .43 .29 .28 2.25 137 ""so." 66" 3.43 249 1,000 XX 280.00 160.00 440.00 863.80 604.05 .70 .44 .28 2.43 142 975 XX 292.50 60.00 352.50 535.17 406.07 .49 .35 .30 2.86 101 647 3.150 XX XX 194. 10 945.00 194.10 1,328.00 277.69 2,178.69 235.19 1,590.30 .43 .57 .37 .39 .30 .30 2.33 560 '"*383."66" 2.84 66 275 XX 82.50 67.00 139.50 218.75 175.00 .69 .43 .30 2.65 401 1,365 982 1,598 XX XX XX 409.50 216.04 399.50 409.50 216.04 511.80 843.72 474. 42 998.97 670. 47 348.96 673. 02 .62 .48 .55 .49 .35 .35 .30 .22 .25 1.67 112 3.12 270 ""iii'so' 2.49 49 230 XX 46.00 23.00 69.00 152.46 113.95 .56 .39 .20 2.33 106 584 XX 128.48 50.00 178.48 348.74 282.89 .51 .40 .22 2.67 97 447 XX 102.81 30.00 132.81 296.93 235. 79 .60 .46 .23 2.43 105 566 XX 141.50 18.20 159. 70 342.76 289.21 .59 .48 .25 2.75 181 487 XX 107. 14 33.00 140.14 420.27 338.94 .79 .63 .22 1.87 242 1.495 XX 448.50 125.00 573.50 833.50 692.78 .47 .37 .30 2.86 375 2,200 XX 649.00 280.00 929.00 1,350.99 1,072.11 .49 .37 .29i 2.88 200 1,429 X 410. 18 150.00 660.18 933.47 660.97 .55 .36 /.20 \.29 .30 ).3.30 ai5 1,860 XXX 558.00 144.00 702.00 1,185.55 862.55 .66 .39 2.74 42 360 M 90.00 69.00 159.00 266.98 193. 21 .55 .35 ,25 4.60 305 1,650 478.50 285.00 763.50 1,123.65 881.39 .51 .36 .29 2.88 143 838 XX 251.40 75.00 326.40 473.64 386.04 .48 .37 .30 2.70 96 422 XX 118. 16 40.00 158.16 291.22 209.22 .60 ,40 .28 2 09 90 750 2,072 XX XX 225.00 621.60 225.00 921.60 446.91 1,621.91 317. 91 1,241.35 .60 .64 .43 .46 .30 .30 3.53 378 "moo" 3.28 292 824 XX 230.72 45.00 275.72 630.84 428.11 .59 .46 .28 1.46 6,455 37,734 10,595.68 2,951.15 13,546.83 24,491.69 18,163.73 J. 58 ».40 1.28 12.81 I Average. 858 BEPOBT OF TAMFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table XIV. — Net charge against wool per poundj SO cents and under S5 cents. Net charge ■ Beceipts. Expense on basis of— against wool per pound on basis of— Potmds of wool. Grade of wooL SeU- ing price per pound. Num- ber of iheep. From wool. From other sources. Total. Market price of grain and hay. Average cost of produc- tion of grain and hay. Mar- ket price of grain and hay. Aver- age cost of pro- duc- tion of grain and Ex. pcnse per head. hay. 7! mi XX $145.74 II45.74 $314.24 $222.39 SO. 45 $0.32 $0.21 $3.02 1S2 1,152 XX 345.60 $30.00 375.60 570.07 473.57 .47 .30 .30 3.12 226 2,043 580 XX XX 612.00 162.40 612.90 249.90 1,084.97 347.29 647.76 281.29 .53 .45 .32 .33 .30 .28 2.87 132 87.60 2.13 192 1,196 XX 358.80 165.00 523.90 731.27 577. 97 .47 .34 .30 3.01 83 530 XX 132.50 35.00 167.50 237.35 202.35 .38 .32 .25 2.47 163 1,620 XX 405.00 128.10 533.10 1,008.21 619.46 .54 .30 .25 2.35 270 1,966 XX 471.60 44.00 515.60 881.41 649.91 .42 .30 .24 2.41 95 658 XX 16450 75.00 239.50 357.98 271.73 .43 .30 .25 2.86 133 840 XX 226.20 80.00 306.20 512.13 347.23 .51 .32 .27 2.61 271 1,694 XX 508.20 100.00 608.20 894.08 660.65 .45 .32 .30 2.44 422 2,134 XX 661.54 176.00 837.54 1,198.04 872.64 .48 .33 .31 2.07 278 2,680 XX 670.00 291.00 961.00 1,664.33 1,123.09 .51 .31 .25 4.03 106 1,075 XX 215.00 88.00 303.00 477. 19 409.79 .36 .30 .20 3.87 407 3,120 XX 748.80 225.00 973.80 1,574.15 1,245.65 .43 .33 .24 3.06 300 2,400 514 XX XX 552.00 113.00 552.00 216.50 1,100.03 407.43 802.53 273.65 .46 .59 .34 .33 .23 .22 2.67 77 103.50 3.55 025 4,074 XX 1,018.50 283.25 1,301.75 2,363.10 1,620.73 .51 .33 .25 2.60 1S6 990 XX 227.70 88.00 315. 70 545.65 411.05 .46 .33 .23 2.21 406 2,800 XX 868.00 200.00 1,068.00 1,546.40 1,0.-^4.30 .48 .30 .31 2.57 234 1,212 XX 369.66 135.00 504.66 693.20 507.46 .46 .31 .30^ 2.17 845 3,651 X 1,095.30 71.57 1,166.87 1,627.63 1,2;M.13 .43 .32 .30 1.46 315 2,310 XX 716. 10 16.00 732.10 1,082.00 824.30 .46 .34 .31 2.62 III 1,000 XX 250.00 100.00 350.00 554.50 405.00 .45 .30 .25 2.87 54 582 XX 145.50 61.00 206.50 323.85 243.85 .45 .31 .25 4.51 682 4,100 XX 1,025.00 516.00 1,541.00 2,048.88 1,854.38 .37 .32 .25 2.72 235 1,700 XX 425.00 195.00 620.00 1,065.70 765.70 .51 .33 .25 3.28 185 925 XXX 277.50 165.00 442.50 664.95 473. 16 .54 .33 .30 2.55 686 4,000 XX 1.200.00 498.25 1,698.25 2,724.40 1,8%. 90 .66 .34 .30 2.68 156 861 XX 249.69 60.00 309.69 476.03 327.03 .48 .30 .29 2.09 139 865 XX 242.20 90.00 332.20 470.88 372.09 .44 .32 .28 2.OT 52 470 XX 141.00 33.00 174.00 241.35 181.05 .44 .32 .30 2.14 81 577 XX 161.56 50.00 211.56 283.75 234.55 .41 .33 .28 2.90 8,876 57,083 15,386.79 4,511.67 19,898.46 31,342.43 22,960.54 ».47 ».32 1.27 12.50 ATeragfli» BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULJE K. 359 Table XV.— Net charge against wool per pound, 25 cents and under SO cents. !■ ■'•I %i Num- ber of sheep. 209 482 430 109 178 360 134 130 153 242 367 392 168 310 139 216 206 123 166 148 154 122 220 222 338 90 427 82 133 100 262 119 201 171 173 120 334 70 44 77 282 486 294 310 136 435 100 434 271 125 247 203 169 317 190 145 151 87 153 147 129 115 Pounds of wool. 13,561 1,450 3,022 2,801 539 1,299 1,870 667 1,040 1,487 2,296 2,936 2,730 1,202 2,200 900 1,597 1,414 750 771 1,160 1,120 775 1,330 1,640 3,300 1,025 2,900 650 935 544 1,184 789 1,220 839 1,150 705 2,020 351 264 503 1,976 3,340 1,564 1,123 857 1,757 650 2,950 1,863 1,000 1,430 1,400 1,050 1,975 1,664 995 1,284 680 1,276 1,120 1,260 1,014 Grade of wool. 90,886 XX XX XX XX X XX XX XX XX XX XX XX X X XX XX X X XX X XX X XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX X XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XXX X XX XX XX Receipts. From wool. $333.50 755.50 840.30 166.31 311.76 661.00 160.00 272.00 342.00 528.00 822.08 627.90 276. 46 638.00 220.50 400.00 353.50 225.00 231.30 336. 40 336.00 232.50 332.50 410.00 825.00 246.00 681.50 149.50 224.40 114. 24 355.20 236.70 353.80 235.00 230.00 155.10 606.00 70.20 58.08 100.60 592.80 968.60 437.92 320.05 214. 25 527.10 195.00 885.00 558.90 240.00 350.35 350.00 262.50 493.75 499.20 223.87 359. 52 190.40 357.28 313.60 352.80 283.92 From other sources. 24,06L14 $87.00 350.00 80.00 75.00 126.00 150.00 147.00 227.50 354.91 100.00 330.00 100.00 198.00 144.00 105.00 150.00 135.00 85.00 120.00 81.00 82.80 202.00 168.30 240.34 100.00 375.00 75.00 166.00 70.00 225.00 75.00 72.40 100.00 86.50 49.50 360.00 39.00 27.50 249.00 309.20 187.80 240.00 105.00 466.26 25.00 142.50 115.50 150.00 120.00 151.50 119.30 228.50 135.00 136.00 90.00 90.00 124.00 156.00 107.50 105.00 Total. 9,678.51 $420.50 1,105.50 840.30 236.31 386.76 687.00 310.00 419.00 669.50 882.91 922.08 957.90 376.46 836.00 364.50 505.00 503.50 360.00 316.30 456.40 417.00 315. 30 534.50 678.30 1,065.34 346.00 1,056.50 224.60 390.40 184.24 680.20 311. 70 426.20 335.00 316.50 204.60 966.00 109.20 85.58 100.60 841.80 1,277.80 625.72 560.05 319.25 993.36 220.00 1,027.50 674.40 390.00 470. 35 501.50 381.80 722.25 634.20 359.87 449.52 280.40 48L28 469.60 460.30 388.92 Expense on basis Of-r Market price of grain and hay. 33,739.65 $698.76 1,374.21 1,087.81 352.00 601.03 920.07 492.35 554.52 904.06 1,471.75 1,269.69 1,602.12 467.90 1, 109. 58 540.28 722.88 731.73 455. 12 353.90 587.30 551.77 418. 19 663.73 739.09 1,438.75 510. 41 1,527.77 333.63 571. 70 298.57 740.15 353.01 657.48 599.35 461.49 326.47 1,295.13 184. 84 107. 21 184.60 950.88 1,935.49 784.05 771.05 483.08 1,294.31 325. 87 1,253.00 869.03 536.48 704.28 750.75 578.93 856.54 690.66 496.35 594.98 293.84 721.35 676. 75 693.20 523.83 Average cost of produc- tion of grain and hay. 46,686.33 $448.86 1, 114. 21 707.39 230.75 440.03 672.07 320.74 406.68 613.58 911.78 1,075.52 402.27 794.58 383.78 501.73 504.98 309.99 266.55 457.90 395.60 311. 78 524.73 589.09 1,126.80 398. 91 1, 118. 27 246.88 425.20 223.62 611.09 288.51 415.48 344.85 389.16 242.90 929.42 133.37 101.63 147.69 732. 38 1,136.20 687.70 535.41 330.63 944.81 209.32 988.84 681.98 390.59 611.64 534.75 408.53 783.22 554.66 382.01 431.48 273.04 468.40 465.37 455.84 404.74 Net charge against wool per pound on basis of— Mar- ket price of grain and hay. $0.42 .34 .39 .50 .40 .42 .61 .39 .45 .49 .40 .47 .31 .41 .44 .39 .41 .43 .35 .40 .42 .43 .35 .35 .36 .40 .40 .40 .43 .42 .44 .35 .48 .59 .33 .39 .46 .42 .30 .37 .36 .49 .38 .47 .44 .47 .46 .38 .40 .39 .41 .43 .44 .32 .33 .36 .39 .30 .47 .38 .39 .41 33,854.78 Aver- age cost of pro- auc- tion of grain and hay. 1.41 $0.25 .26 .25 .27 .27 .29 .25 .25 .26 .26 .26 .27 .26 .26 .27 .25 .25 .24 .24 .28 .28 .29 .25 .26 .27 .29 .26 .26 .27 .28 .25 .27 .28 .29 .27 .27 .28 .27 .28 .29 .25 .25 .26 .26 .26 .27 .28 .29 .29 .25 .28 .28 .28 .29 .25 .25 .26 .27 .27 .28 .28 .29 Sell- ing price per pound. Ex- pense per head. $0.23 .25 .30 .29 .24 .30 .24 .26 .23 .23 .28 .23 .23 .29 .24) .25 .25 .30 .30 .29 .30 .30 .25 .25 .25 .24 .23) .23 .24 .21 .30 .30 .29 .28 .20 .22 .30 .20 .22 .20 .30 .29 .28 .28) .25 .30 .30 .30 .30 .24 .24) .25 .25 .25 .30 .22) .28 .28 .28 .28 .28 .28 1.27 $2.15 2.31 L65 2.12 2.47 1.87 2.39 3.13 4.01 3.77 2.33 2.74 2.39 2.56 2.76 2.32 2.45 2.52 1.61 3.09 2.57 2.56 2.39 2.65 3.33 4.43 2.62 3.01 3.20 2.24 1.95 2.42 2.07 2.02 2.25 2.02 2.78 1.91 2.31 1.92 2.60 2 34 2.00 L73 2.43 2.17 2.09 2.28 2.52 3.12 2.07 2.63 2.42 2.47 2.92 2.63 2.86 3.14 3.00 3.17 3.53 3.52 1.27 12.50 I Average. 860 BBPORT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDXJLiE K. 361 Tablb XVI. — Net charge against wool per pounds 20 cents and under 25 cents. Table XVII. — Net diarge against wool per pound under 20 cents. Net charge Beceipts. mil Expense ol !on basis against wool per pound on basis of— Sell- ing price per pound. Nnm- her of fiheep. Pounds of wool. Grade of wool. From wool. From other sources. Total. Market price of grain and hay. Average cost of produc- tion of grain and hay. Mar- ket price of grain and hay. Aver- age cost of pro- duc- tion of grain and hay. Ex- pense per head. 217 1,616 XX S371.68 8100.00 8471.68 S714.18 $453.28 SO. 38 10.22 $0.23 $2.09 170 1,176 XX 352.80 98.00 450.80 627.10 451.60 .36 .21 .30 2.66 217 1,600 XX 480.00 163.00 643.00 776.62 613. 12 .38 .21 .30 2.36 80 432 XX 120.96 32.00 152.96 193.88 138.28 .37 .24 .28 1.73 23tt 2,229 XX 668.70 95.00 763.70 953.67 612.17 .39 .24 .30 2.59 135 706 XX 211.50 62.50 274.00 340.30 239.20 .39 .24 .30 1.77 2Z2 1,200 XX 276.00 213.00 489.00 602.47 453.47 .32 .20 .23 2.04 275 2,054 XX 492.96 190.00 682.96 945.79 633.48 .37 .22 .24 2.30 106 1,170 XX 292.50 296.70 589.20 1,109.75 581.81 .69 .24 .25 3.50 265 2,500 XX 650.00 280.00 830.00 1,046.01 794.81 .31 .21 .22 3.12 146 1,057 XX 264.25 107.50 371.75 477.95 322.15 .35 .20 .25 2.21 152 762 XX 228.60 111.00 339.60 389.50 281.16 .37 .22 .30 1.85 169 1,017 XX 254.26 117.50 371.75 481.47 346.22 .36 .23 .25 2.05 121 651 XX 195.30 123.00 318.30 381.11 225.07 .40 .21 .30 1.86 353 1,776 X 550.56 195.00 745.56 753.68 581.29 .31 .21 .31 1.65 IM 1,005 XX 301.50 100.00 401.50 380.60 308.65 .28 .21 .30 2.11 184 1,187 XX 356.10 180.00 536.10 539.76 432.26 .30 .21 .30 2.35 130 600 XX 180.00 160.00 340.00 427.39 283.39 .45 .21 .30 2.18 070 6,216 XX 1,616.96 502.00 2,118.96 2,223.44 1,635.65 .33 .21 .31 2.44 483 3,160 XX 948.00 407.00 1,365.00 1,459.05 1,072.09 .33 .21 .30 2.22 753 3,900 XX 1,170.00 716.50 1,886.50 2,061.79 1,594.06 .34 .22 .30 2.12 im 1,992 XX 607.56 180.00 787.56 783.33 627.63 .30 .22 .301 2.69 123 1,240 X 310.00 121. 7« 431.76 472. 63 365.38 .28 .20 .26 2.97 210 1,800 XX 450.00 212.95 662.95 748.43 569.93 .30 .20 .25 2.67 307 1,315 XX 328.75 219.00 647.75 640.96 480.16 .32 .20 .25 2.32 ao6 1,750 XX 437.50 150.00 687.60 706.15 533.75 .32 .23 .25 2.57 82 492 XX 123.00 90.00 213.00 262.40 205.40 ,35 .23 .25 2.50 82U 2,500 XX 625.00 326.00 951.00 1,173.93 918.93 .34 .23 .25 2.79 105 1,000 X 250.00 125.00 375.00 411.86 334.36 .29 .21 .26 3.18 473 3,800 XX 912.00 332.00 1,244.00 1,470.38 1,141.58 .30 .22 .24 2.41 342 2,400 X 552.00 240.00 792.00 982.67 784.67 .31 .23 .23 2.29 mo 724 XX 217.20 54.00 271.20 261.32 194.92 .29 .20 .30 1.95 74 540 XX 162.00 72.00 234.00 276.49 183.49 .38 .21 .30 2.48 1,210 6,720 XX 2,083.20 350.00 2,433.20 2,435.35 1,827.85 .31 .21 .31 1.51 365 2,517 XX 755.10 156.00 911. 10 1,150.78 730.36 .40 .24 .30 2.00 448 2,832 XX 679.00 392.00 971.00 1,407.22 924.97 .39 .20 .22 2.06 178 1,214 XX 279.22 152.00 431.22 655.23 404.29 .33 .20 .23 2.27 869 4,647 XX 1,301.16 820.00 2, 121. 16 2,501.86 1,715.28 .36 .20 .28 2.00 249 1,736 XX 486.08 205.72 691.80 787.66 549.45 .34 .20 .28 2.21 198 1,485 XX 371.25 143.00 614.25 671.66 436.72 .35 .20 .25 2.21 W 4,413 XX 1,348.90 663.97 1,902.87 2,273.67 1,492.92 .39 .21 .30 2.00 275 1,700 XX 382.50 164.00 546.50 822.91 626.88 .39 .22 .221 1.92 llA 643 XX 180.00 72.00 252.00 326.80 214. 78 .40 .22 .28 1.85 119 2,352 XX 658.66 225.00 883.56 1,112.12 777.22 .38 .23 .28 2.44 132 786 XX 240.85 70.00 310.85 396.22 268.61 .41 .24 .30 2.03 231 1,523 XX 380.75 210.00 590.75 883.19 584.83 .44 .24 .25 2.53 325 2,134 XX 522.83 400.00 922.83 1,256.66 902.16 .40 .24 .24} 2.78 214 1,884 XX 414.48 186.00 600.48 696.88 666.69 .27 .20 .22 2.60 35 216 XX 54.00 27.00 81.00 99.48 73.36 .34 .21 .26 2.10 81 53.1 XX 117.26 81.00 198.26 284.53 205.52 .38 .23 .22 2.54 687 3,574 XX 893.50 265.00 1,158.60 1,507.02 1,028.22 .34 .21 .25 1,75 298 1,619 XX 446.92 190.60 637.42 759. 17 525.64 .35 .21 .28 1.76 172 1,020 XX 295.80 50.00 345.80 355.60 266.87 .30 .21 .29 1.65 SB 2,287 XX 548.88 159.00 707.88 780.60 674. 62 .27 .22 .24 2.14 127 1,358 XX 387.03 165.00 552.03 691. 14 472.94 .31 .22 .28 J 3.72 140 850 XX 255.00 120.25 375.25 479. 70 310. 61 .42 .22 .30 2.22 447 3,504 XX 1,011.00 396.00 1,407.00 2,021.34 1, 189. 84 .46 .22 .29 2.66 191 1,687 XX 396.75 232.00 628.75 749.56 583.74 .33 .23 .25 3.06 122 90O XX 225.00 91.00 316.00 482.45 304.28 .43 .23 .25 2.49 117 731 XX 219.30 73.60 292.80 433.51 243.01 .49 .23 .30 2,06 273 1,955 XX 586.50 220.00 806.50 943.90 674.64 .37 .24 .30 2.47 164 1,400 X 350.00 140.00 490.00 663.79 415.50 .30 .20 .25 2.53 278 2,633 X 691.16 206.50 897.66 1,036.10 743.10 .31 .20 .2(^ 2.67 83 623 XX 186.90 85.50 272.40 287.15 213.05 .32 .21 .30 2.57 898 2,739 XX 684.75 409.00 1,093.75 1,456.09 969.70 .38 .21 .25 2.44 120 flS6 XX 224.64 108.00 332.64 473.30 317.20 .39 .22 .24 2.64 196 1,510 XX 422.80 89.40 512.20 496.05 391.85 .27 .20 .28 2.00 177 1,142 XX 326.47 180.00 505.47 545.61 404.71 .32 .20 .28} 2.29 236 2,660 X 744.80 98.00 842.80 865.82 663.88 .29 .21 .28 2.81 216 2,580 XX 722.40 260.00 982.40 1, 106. 16 863.62 .33 .23 .28 4.00 18,649 129,160 35,207.97 14,314.75 49,522.72 59,423.51 42,337.59 1.35 1.22 ».27 »2.27 I 1 Net charge Receipts. Expense on basis of— against wool per pouna on basis of— Pounds of wool. Grade of wool. Sett- ing price per pound. Num- ber of sheep. From wool. From other sources. Total. Market price of grain and hay. Average cost of produc- tion of grain and hay. Mar- ket price of grain and hay. Aver- age cost of pro- duc- tion of grain and Ex- pense per head. hay. 147 1,599 XX $343.79 $36aoo $703.79 $517.02 $372.77 $aio $0.01 $a21} $2.63 458 4,146 XX 953.58 1,800.00 2,753.58 2,931.17 2,132,53 .27 .08 .23 4.66 183 1,272 XX 318.00 325.00 643.00 617. 36 456.96 .23 .10 .25 2.49 65 660 XX 168.40 7&00 236.40 203.67 151,55 .19 .11 .24 2.33 134 1,300 XX 286l00 16a 00 446.00 438.33 320.96 .21 .12 .22 2.40 141 1,064 X 212.80 159.90 372. 70 422.79 298.79 .25 .13 .20 2.12 67 425 X 97.75 120.00 217. 75 253.69 192.22 .31 .17 .23 3,37 372 2,450 XX 735.00 464.45 1,199.45 920.95 611. 15 .19 .07 .30 1.64 67 913 XX 182.60 140.00 322.60 29a 11 238.73 .17 .11 .20 3.56 162 2,029 XX 507.25 217.00 724.25 854.57 686.63 .31 .17 .25 3.85 34t 2,404 XX 625.04 120.00 745.04 901.97 67a 42 .33 .19 .26 1.67 187 1,266 XX 379.80 280.00 659.80 462.47 290,97 .14 .003 .30 1.55 107 660 XX 162.40 112.00 274.40 228.55 146.00 .21 .06 .29 1.36 360 2,170 XX 651.00 660.96 1,220.96 1,061.87 767. 77 .23 .10 .30 2.16 933 6,500 XX 1,950.00 718.50 2,668.60 3,454.03 1,649.88 .42 .14 .30 1,77 89 700 XX 196.00 68.50 254.50 244,48 153.26 .27 .14 .28 1,72 92 683 XX 157.09 106.00 263.09 331.79 2ia 74 .33 .16 .28 2,29 186 830 XX 257.30 127.00 384.30 430.19 258.70 .37 .16 .31 1,39 174 912 X 273.60 156.00 429.60 417. 27 320.44 .29 .18 .30 1.84 62 350 X 80.50 75.00 155.50 128.39 96.39 .15 .06 .23 1.85 90 960 XX 192.00 250.00 442.00 423.32 308.14 .18 .06 .20 3,42 148 1,274 X 300.00 260.00 560,00 501.07 363.07 .19 .08 .23i 2.52 164 1,335 XX 307.05 307.34 614.39 472. 81 364.25 .12 .04 .23 2.22 294 1,746 XX 436.50 396.00 832.50 712.08 529.94 .18 .08 .25 1,80 ' 90 610 XX 152.50 150.00 302.50 285.46 203.46 .22 .00 .25 2.25 UO 1,440 XX 360.00 48.00 408.00 283,55 271. 16 .23 .15 .25 2.46 197 1,687 XX 421.75 294.10 715.85 860,01 666.34 .34 .17 .25 2.88 77 625 XX 162.60 127.50 290.00 352.88 240.68 .36 .18 .26 3.12 315 3,080 XX 770.00 459.66 1,229.66 837, 52 643,70 .13 .06 .26 2.04 102 909 XX 227.25 216.00 443.25 411.25 303,58 .21 .09 .26 2.98 167 1,206 XX 289.44 217.00 506.44 444.01 376. 82 .19 .13 .24 2.25 199 1,400 X 350.00 140.00 490.00 444.45 400.62 .22 .16 .26 2.01 66 658 XX 157.92 87.00 244.92 230.46 186,08 .22 .16 .24 2.82 150 1,000 XX 220.00 190.00 410.00 429.06 359.16 .24 .17 .22 2.39 72 560 XX 128.80 194.00 322.80 272,60 195.15 .14 .002 .23 2.71 77 619 XX 117.61 , 120.00 237.61 206,21 168.86 .14 .06 .19 2.18 87 240 XX 67.60 96,00 153.60 136.29 113. 79 .17 .07 .24 3.08 99 800 XX 192.00 196.00 388.00 323,33 255.08 .16 .08 .24 2.67 231 1,980 X 476.20 468.00 943.20 887,97 629.91 .22 .08 .24 2.73 130 1,034 X 206.80 120.00 326.80 288.92 237,47 .16 .11 .20 1.83 306 1,910 XX 439.30 240.00 679.30 649.75 596,35 .21 .17 .23 1.94 105 1,000 X 250.00 269.53 519.53 336.93 260.43 .07 .03 .25 2.48 302 2,218 XX 488.00 165.00 653.00 697. 41 371. 91 .19 .09 .22 1.23 178 1,610 XX 402.50 248.75 651.25 563,55 415.05 .20 .10 .25 2.33 18C 1,601 X 400.00 200.00 600,00 482.88 360.13 .18 .10 .25 1.94 227 1,734 XX 433.50 240,00 673,50 660,43 458.41 .24 .12 .25 2.02 91 728 X 182.00 190.00 372.00 396.76 286.81 .28 .13 .25 3.15 140 1,014 XX 233.22 126.00 359,22 397,66 273.91 .27 .14 .23 1.96 216 1,445 XX 361.25 154,00 615.25 570. 99 382.34 .29 .16 .25 1.77 147 1,712 XX 393.76 214.50 608.26 740,99 482. 19 .31 .16 *.23 3.28 130 1,038 X 259.50 100.00 359,50 327.30 261.55 .22 .16 .25 2.01 311 2,000 XX 500.00 276,00 776,00 969.23 633,63 .35 .18 .25 2,04 167 1,837 XX 459.00 433.75 892,75 1,075.71 775. 11 .35 .19 .25 4.64 132 1,700 X 425.00 490.05 915,05 622.20 548.19 .08 .03 .25 4,15 130 1.585 X 348.70 360.00 708.70 632.71 481.01 .17 .07 .22 3.71 285 3,500 X 875.00 875.00 1,750.00 1,623.42 1,355.72 .21 .14 .25 4,76 102 900 X 225.00 225.00 450.00 445,85 314.61 .24 .16 .25 3.08 127 1,400 XX 304.51 161.00 465,51 367.95 272.76 .15 .08 .211 2,14 150 1,160 XX 353.80 126.75 480,55 309.98 235.68 .16 .09 .301 1.57 120 1,965 XX 564.20 228.00 792.20 584.86 489.61 .18 .13 .281 4.08 267 1,768 XX 621.56 296.00 817.56 744.11 592.46 .25 .17 .29 2.22 306 2,276 XX 682.80 336.00 1.018.80 893.23 739.23 .24 .18 .30 1.96 261 2,552 XX 765.60 375.00 1,140.60 1,101.09 824.31 .28 .18 .30 3.16 130 1,450 XX 362.50 291.10 653.60 484.59 372.59 .13 .06 .25 2.87 164 1,200 XX 300.00 257.00 657.00 466.93 36|3.93 .17 .08 .25 2.22 ' AveragB. ,i 362 EEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. \ BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 363 Tablb XVII. — Net charge agednst wool per pound under 20 cents — Continued. Net charge Receipts. Expense on basis of— against wool per pound on basis of— Pounds of wool. Qrade of wooL • SeU- ing price per pound. Num- ber of abeep. From WOOL From other soorces. Total. Market price of grain and hay. Average cost of produc- tion of grain and hay. Mar- ket price of grain and hay. Aver- age cost of pro- auo- tion of grata and Ex- pense per head. hay. 181 1,440 X 1360.00 1249.00 1609.00 $527.66 1416.06 $0.19 $0.11 $0.26 $2.29 190 1,500 XX 345.00 316.00 661.00 646.16 495.46 .22 .12 .23 2.16 170 1,520 XX 380.00 230.00 610.00 637.70 421.20 .20 .12 .25 2.48 133 1,400 XX 350.00 168.00 618.00 463.78 352.18 .21 .13 .25 2.65 165 1,101 XX 275.25 321.00 696.25 626.02 480.52 .28 .16 .25 2.91 70 660 XX 156.80 150.00 306.80 307.90 233.30 .28 .15 .28 3.33 291 2,868 XX 659.64 665.50 1,225.14 1,396.56 1,024.55 .29 .16 .23 3.52 211 1,960 XX 429.00 306.00 734.00 826.03 623.03 .27 .16 .22 2.95 277 2,300 X 629.00 389.70 918.70 1,031.92 769.42 .28 .16 .23 2.78 1S6 1,500 XX 375.00 60.00 425.00 397. 10 302.10 .23 .17 .25 1.94 858 2,280 XX 647.20 373.88 921.08 934.74 744.74 .25 .17 .24 2.89 01 600 XX 160.00 78.88 228.88 242.87 184.37 .27 .18 .25 2.02 2(^ 1,920 XX 480.00 306.00 786.00 881.34 668.34 .30 .19 .25 3.26 160 1,000 XX 250.00 220.00 470.00 490.54 416.44 .27 .19 .25 2.60 103 1,800 XX 288.00 440.00 728.00 658.18 482.18 .12 .02 .16 4.57 164 700 X 143.50 230.80 374.30 353.92 280.92 .18 .07 .20^ 1.71 90 900 XX 189.00 206.00 395.00 357.83 273.98 .17 .06 .21 3.04 269 1,800 XX 414.00 336.25 750.25 612.56 484.25 .15 .08 .23 1.80 177 1,400 XX 350.00 280.60 630.60 625.44 401.69 .18 .09 .25 2.28 71 480 XX 110.40 117.00 227.40 236.81 162.81 .25 .10 .23 2.29 265 2,080 XX 478.40 225.00 703.40 658.59 497.09 .21 .14 .23 1.88 242 1,900 XX 437.00 420.00 857.00 995.87 706.07 .30 .16 .23 2.92 268 1,860 XX 425.50 342.00 767.50 852.60 648.50 .28 .16 .23 2.42 290 2,600 XX 698.00 200.00 798.00 1, 107. 86 697.11 .36 .16 .23 2.06 111 900 XX 207.00 140.00 347.00 387.00 279.75 .27 .16 .23 2.52 103 1,060 XX 220.60 78.00 298.60 348.03 262.38 .26 .18 .21 2.55 201 1,780 XX 409.40 200.00 609.40 661.84 534.54 .26 .19 .23 2.66 252 1,474 XX 464.31 187.50 651.81 616.46 361.17 .22 .09 .311 1.43 347 1,532 XX 459.60 332.25 791.85 744.31 525.06 .27 .12 .30 1.61 201 1,193 XX 352.00 147.60 499.50 477. 70 331.70 .28 .16 .29} 1.65 67 476 XX 142.50 45.00 187.50 192.82 124.07 .31 .16 .30 2.18 82 365 XX 109.60 69.60 169.00 188.65 129.45 .35 .19 .30 1.57 202 1,224 XX 367.20 124.50 491. 70 695.48 371.23 .38 .19 .30 1.83 424 3,776 XX 944.00 840.00 1,784.00 1,235.67 871.30 .10 .01 .26 2.05 101 700 XX 196.00 209.50 406.50 318.24 221.56 .16 .02 .28 2.19 157 1,304 XX 267.32 271.60 638.82 486.00 . 335.01 .16 .04 .20§ 2.13 74 460 XX 126.70 126.00 262.70 219. 89 149.56 .20 .05 .27 2.02 144 1,087 XX 353.27 175.00 628.27 380.32 276.51 .19 .09 .321 1.92 229 2,454 X 540.00 350.00 890.00 99-;. 21 699.09 .26 .10 .22 2.62 180 1,465 XX 366.25 182.50 648.75 465.89 346.64 .19 .11 .26 1.93 300 2,500 XX 600.00 378.00 878.00 946.84 654.49 .22 .11 .20 2.78 174 1,136 XX 284.00 143.15 427.15 444.77 297.80 .26 .13 .26 1.71 389 2,453 XX 688.72 388.50 977.22 1,006.87 799.27 .25 .16 .24 2.06 262 1,672 XX 376.20 183.00 659.20 620.41 471.35 .26 .17 .22) 1.80 144 978 XX 244.60 112.50 357.00 424.08 279.39 .32 .17 .25 1.94 155 1,160 XX 287.60 159.80 447.30 680.73 372.31 .37 .18 .26 2.40 134 862 XX 172.40 79.50 261.90 376.77 238.77 .34 .18 .20 1.92 172 735 XX 161.70 117.00 278.70 329.80 261.97 .29 .18 .22 1.47 60 462 XX 92.40 122.26 214,66 162.94 123.78 .09 .003 .20 2.47 172 2,021 XX 486.04 500.00 986.04 810.20 670.03 .15 .03 .24 3.31 200 1,642 XX 385.50 378.26 763.76 698.20 467.35 .14 .06 .25 2.33 151 1,248 XX 262.08 228.00 490.08 428.48 300.36 .16 .06 .21 1.99 98 1,057 XX 286.25 143.20 428.45 362.74 258.38 .21 .11 .27 2.63 64 618 XX 136.96 120.00 255.96 286.21 186.78 .27 .11 .22 2.92 IM6 6,110 XX 1,226.40 913.00 2, 139. 40 2,501.67 1,643.46 .31 .14 .24 3.02 75 637 XX 140.14 104.50 244.64 278.59 213.33 .27 .17 .22 2.84 76 670 XX 125.40 89.76 215. 16 267.85 192.60 .31 .18 .22 2.53 26;{ 1,904 XX 400.00 274.75 674. 75 918.39 648.92 .34 .19 .21 2.46 173 1,384 XX 318.32 186.00 504.32 635.42 447.85 .32 .19 .23 2.60 169 1,100 XX 231.00 345.00 676.00 515. 11 368.86 .15 .02 .21 2.32 336 2,990 XX 627.90 681.50 1,309.40 1,285.90 934.20 .20 .08 .21 2.78 193 950 XX 199.50 225.00 424.50 398-40 309.20 .18 .08 .21 1.60 77 689 XX 129.58 120.00 249.58 170.93 126.35 .09 .01 .22 2.22 U 342 XX 66.40 70.00 138.40 106.10 89.99 .11 .06 .20 1.4S Table XVII.— Net charge against wool per pound under 20 cmis— Continued. Net charge Receipts. Expense on basis of— against wool per pound on basis of— SeU- ing price per pound. Aver- Ex- Knm- berof iheep. Pounds of wool. Grade of wotiL "T^ - Market Average Cost of Mar- ket age cost of pensa p«* head. From wool. From other sources. Total. price of grata and hay. produc- tion of grata and hay. price of grain and hay. pro- duc- tion of grain and hay. 116 990 XX $217.80 $118.50 $336.30 $228.68 $194.88 $0.11 $ao7 $0.22 $1.68 97 710 XX 142.00 93.71 235.71 267.27 200.16 .24 .14 .20 2.06 82 423 X 84.60 45.00 129.60 124.45 105.34 .19 .14 .20 1.28 214 458 XX 100.76 163.60 254.36 315.50 224.44 .36 .16 .22 1.05 47 350 XX 87.60 67.00 144.50 184.94 117.53 .36 .16 .26 2.50 110 789 XX 173.68 83.00 256.58 274.06 216. 49 .24 .16 .22 1.97 151 1,370 XX 301.40 114.00 415.40 378.99 339.89 .19 .17 .22 2.25 77 608 XX 111.76 71.50 183.26 212. 67 158.40 .28 .17 .22 2.06 47 609 XX 122.16 61.00 173. 16 208.24 140.20 .31 .18 .24 3.00 166 816 XX 163.20 84.00 247.20 297.49 242.59 .26 .19 .20 1.46 196 900 X 207.00 378.00 585.00 610.80 456.75 .26 .09 .23 2.33 181 1,300 XX 297.80 316.96 614.76 657.24 404.20 .26 .06 .20 2.23 286 2,574 XX 772.20 422.00 1,194.20 797.49 665.02 .16 .06 .30 1.98 166 1,303 XX 391.00 255.00 646.00 634.60 422.60 .29 .13 .30 2.54 813 4,356 XX 1,306.80 696.75 1,903.55 1,504.23 1,157.63 .21 .13 .30 1.42 67 402 XX 120.60 66,50 177. 10 135.26 119.26 .20 .17 .30 1.78 230 1,512 XX 370.44 172.50 642.94 660.21 422.88 .26 .17 .24* 1.84 201 1,920 XX 676.00 100.00 676.00 646.80 450.68 .28 .19 .30 2.24 340 1,946 XX 583.80 350.00 933.80 965.43 700.87 .32 .19 .30 2.06 407 2,347 XX 704.10 343.74 1,047.84 1,120.87 788.61 .33 .19 .30 1.94 101 956 XX 238.75 298.00 636.75 4^.27 313.33 .18 .02 .25 3.10 150 1,592 X 398.00 426.00 824.00 682.51 621.61 .16 .06 .25 3.48 235 2,132 X 533.00 405.00 938.00 787,26 639.98 .18 .06 .25 2.30 67 490 XX 122.50 113.90 236.40 241.09 146.34 .26 .07 .25 2.18 111 1,200 X 300.00 218.50 618.50 457.82 342.77 .20 .11 .25 3.09 96 780 XX 195.00 202.50 397.50 369.30 284.80 .21 .11 .25 2.96 99 920 XX 230.00 202.00 432.00 616. 14 303.87 .34 .11 .25 3.07 216 2,030 XX 538.00 241.21 779.21 676.57 486.57 .21 .12 .26J 2.25 247 2,100 XX 625.00 359.65 884.65 951.29 683.75 .28 .15 .26 2.77 212 2,250 XX 606.25 750.00 1,256.25 1,030.31 780.12 .12 .01 .22J 3.68 191 1,455 XXX 407.40 308.00 715.40 649.08 626,79 .23 .14 .28 2.76 80 336 XX 94.08 90.00 184.08 195.13 142.73 .31 .16 .28 1.78 267 1,800 XX 540.00 380.00 920.00 858.86 683,79 .27 .18 .30 2.56 65 640 XX 115.20 170.40 285,60 228.68 175. 13 .09 .01 .18 2.79 173 1,400 XX 350.00 408.00 758.00 572.82 428.77 .12 .01 .25 2.48 175 1,260 XX 275.00 464.00 739.00 664.02 496.52 .16 .03 .22 2.84 66 710 XX 163.30 184.50 347.80 298.51 218.21 .16 .05 .23 3.31 51 372 X 79.98 131.50 211.48 208.98 148.81 .21 .06 .21i 2.92 220 1,104 XX 253.92 476.60 730.52 730.99 532.94 .23 .06 .23 2.42 203 2,500 X 525.00 625.00 1,050.00 940.18 682.51 .17 .06 .21 3.36 96 680 XX 142.80 160.00 302.80 263,30 212.05 .15 .07 .21 2.21 87 783 XX 168.34 166.70 335.04 315.46 231.66 .19 .09 .21i 2.66 182 1,508 X 346.84 344.10 690.94 692.51 609.16 .23 .11 .23 2.79 114 1,026 XX 225.72 158.75 384.47 373.33 285.13 .21 .13 .22 2.50 158 870 XX 191.40 380.16 671.56 688.54 494.54 .35 .13 .22 3.13 133 1,243 XX 273.46 219.60 492.96 417.30 311,84 .16 .07 .22 2,36 226 1,304 XX 260.80 390.60 651.30 695.60 404.92 .16 .01 .20 2.26 31,673 248,519 61,391.89 46,451.60 106,843.49 103,396.28 74,661.12 1.23 ».12 1.24 12.36 t Average. 364 BBPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Table XVIII. — Net credit to wool per pound. \ BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 365 Net credit to Ponnda of WOOL Orade Of WOOL Beoefpts. Expense OQ basis wool per pound on oasis of— Sell- ing price per pound. Ex- pense per head i Nnm- ber of sheep. From wool. From other aouroes. TotaL Market price of grain and hay. Average cost 01 produc- tion of grain and hay. Mar- ket Iffice of grain and hay. Aver- age cost of pro- duc- tion of grain and hay. 1 85 850 XX 1170.00 t217.44 S387.44 $290.45 |201.95's0.09 +10.01 SO. 20 S2.38 135 1,266 X 278.30 375.00 653.30 457.86 364.36 .07 + .01 .22 2.70 33 219 XX 60.23 90.00 160.23 105.26 75.01 .07 + .07 .274 2.27 119 960 X 225.60 503.80 729.40 417.54 305.04+.09 + .21 .23A 2.56 88 ^'2^ X 264.00 300.00 564.00 387.79 269.54 .08 + .03 .25 3.06 71 232 XX 51.00 81.00 132.00 87.44 61.19 .03 + .09 .22 .86 2m 3,475 XX 764.50 1,245.01 2,009.51 1,250.27 963.92 .002 + .08 .22 3.58 142 1,150 XX 287.50 400.00 687.50 491. 16 368.66 .08 + .03 .25 2.59 176 1,630 XX 374.90 617.00 991.90 791.99 608.29 .10 + .02 .23 3.46 133 1,800 X 450.00 455.00 906.00 668.04 430.54 .06 + .01 .25 3.16 58 484 XX 113.20 144.00 257.20 186.19 121.60 .09 + .05 / .30 I ..22 .29 } 2.10 1.67 167 1,198 XX 347.42 280.44 627.86 336.26 279.26 .05 + .01 53 236 XX 49. 56 132.00 181.56 117.11 86.21 +.06 + .19 .21 1.63 135 1,500 XX 345.00 821.00 1,166.00 800.24 668.07 +.01 + .17 .23 4.13 129 636 XX 137.85 310.00 447.85 430.87 303.62 .19 + .01 .21J 2.35 51 400 X 96.00 275 00 371.00 278.60 » 224.85 .01 + .13 .24 4.41 100 900 XX 225.00 382.00 607.00 382.50 272.10 .006 + .12 .26 2.72 99 924 XX 231.00 517.00 748.00 615.22 471.67 +.11 + .05 .25 4.76 254 2,350 XX 587.50 750.00 1,337.50 991.70 718.01 .10 + .01 .25 2.83 144 750 XX 165.00 461.88 626.88 517.29 373.00 +.08 + .11 .22 2.59 168 1,200 XX 270.00 647.00 917.00 804.30 671.90 .13 + .06 .22i 3.40 91 652 X 143.44 257.60 401.04 331.70 239. 76 .11 + .03 .22 2.63 81 810 XX 178.20 249.44 427.64 330.82 253.52 .10 + .01 .22 3.13 110 798 XX 159.60 347.20 506.80 328.22 274.89 +.02 + .09 .20 2.50 119 560 X 128.80 296.74 425.54 348.28 281.46 .09 + .03 .23 2.37 206 1,776 X 363.87 640.00 903.87 639.03 494.64 .06 + .02 .201 2.38 96 790 X 158.00 236.00 394.00 276.22 170.72 .05 + .09 .20 1.80 48 340 X 85.00 149.50 234.50 176. 71 131. 15 .08 + .05 .25 2.73 * fl 77 648 XX 149.00 245.00 394.00 298.84 199.34 +.08 + .08 .23 2.50 3,438 29,588 6,869.47 11,328.06 18,185.52 13,037.90 9,674.27 ».02 1+ .06 1.23 »2.81 Avera^ .M PRODUCTION OF WOOL PROM CROSSBRED SHEEP IN OHIO REGION. Table XIX. — Mill grade of fleeces mostly three-eighths and one-quarter blood. Net charge against or Eftceipts— Expense on basis of— net credit to wool per pound on basis of— • Sell- ing price per potmd. Num- ber of Bbeep. Pounds of wooL Market Average cost of Mar- ket Aver- age cost of Ex- pense per head. « From wool. From other sources. Total. price of ^ainand hay. produc- tion of grain and hay. price of grain and pro- duc- tion of hay. grain and hay. 880 600 tl32.00 $54.00 $186.00 $365.47 $272. 47 $0.52 $0.36 $0.22 $3.10 331 1,133 243.60 350.00 593.60 912. 81 798.91 .49 .39 .21 J 2.41 76 362 87.00 120.00 207.00 310.86 249.85 .53 .37 .24 3.29 325 2,850 655.50 109.80 765.30 1, 492. 30 1,005.70 .48 .31 .23 3.09 112 728 160.00 288.00 448. 00 699.19 528.44 .57 .33 .22 4.72 272 1,213 351.77 670.00 1,021.77 1,173.18 1,030.44 .42 .30 .29 3.79 153 1,150 264.50 192.00 456.50 823.08 530.51 .55 .29 .23 3.47 233 1,600 368.00 400.00 768.00 1,032.06 794.46 .40 .25 .23 3.41 144 1,219 280.37 375.00 655.37 957.35 714.90 .48 .28 .23 4.28 161 980 220.60 250.00 470.50 602.02 455.52 .36 .21 .22i 3.02 77 525 126.00 138.00 264.00 310. 75 246.75 .33 .21 .24 3.20 102 612 150.00 200.00 350.00 495.36 347.06 .48 .24 .24i 3.40 251 1,470 390.00 584.00 974.00 1,252.35 932.60 .45 .24 .25 3.72 965 6,250 1,562.60 1,400.00 2,962.50 3,402.78 2,873.78 .32 .24 .25 2.98 70 342 75.24 96.83 172.07 226.81 177.52 .38 .23 .22 2.54 175 800 184.00 214.00 398.00 492. 40 370.73 .35 .20 .23 2.12 344 2,428 658.44 593.28 1,151.72 819.38 627.68 .09 .01 .23 1.82 63 367 84.41 95.00 179.41 227.11 167.86 .36 .19 .23 2.66 80 600 125.00 140.00 265.00 188.99 172. 48 .10 .06 .25 2.16 • 244 1,700 425.00 530.00 955.00 831.10 634.60 .18 .07 .25 2.60 49 258 64.50 143.00 207.50 196.89 154.65 .21 .04 .25 3.16 230 1,380 386.40 459.00 845.40 708.72 554.72 .18 .07 .28 2.41 116 950 237.50 426.00 663.50 578.96 432.56 .16 .01 .25 3.73 80 585 146.25 185.00 331.25 252.30 190.35 .12 .01 .25 2.38 210 980 225.40 326.50 551.90 493.93 383.43 .17 .05 .23 1.83 70 400 92.00 142.00 234.00 233.16 173. 91 .23 .08 .23 2.48 284 1,680 394.80 400.00 794.80 705.14 567.14 .18 .10 .23i 2.00 216 1,250 287.50 330.00 617.50 632.66 481.41 .23 .11 .23 2.23 . 317 1,480 333.00 276.00 609.00 601.17 454.67 .22 .12 .22i 1.43 121 525 105.00 277.00 382.00 474.37 348.12 .38 .14 .20 2.88 132 1,040 239.20 150.00 389.20 418. 10 305. 40 .26 .16 .23 2.31 121 614 141.22 125.40 266.62 299.60 221.60 .28 .16 .23 1.83 233 1,111 276. 35 456.00 732.35 794.85 661.61 .31 .19 .21 2.84 136 1,088 272.00 270.00 642.00 339.66 292.26 .06 .02 .25 2.15 82 460 115.00 195.00 310.00 246.72 287.65 .11 .03 .25 3.26 73 590 147.50 150.00 297.50 200.70 175. 76 .09 .04 .25 2.41 1,840 11,700 2,925.00 4,500.00 7,425.00 6,478.10 6, 192. 60 .17 .06 .25 2.82 117 800 200.00 358.00 558.00 567.20 410.60 .26 .07 .25 3.51 113 820 205.00 362.50 567.50 561.56 437. 92 .24 .09 .25 3.88 41 330 76.00 170.00 246.00 256.39 205.71 .26 .11 .23 6.02 101 810 162.00 265.00 427.00 465.30 371. 02 .25 .13 .20 3.67 248 1,205 228.95 532.12 761.07 893.31 608.00 .30 .07 .19 2.45 151 1,007 231.61 355.75 587.36 495. 24 455.44 .13 .09 .23 3.02 100 837 192. 51 375.00 567.51 416.93 376.83 .05 .002 .23 3.76 39 312 81.12 175.08 256.20 226.12 182. 77 .16 .02 .26 4.69 75 562 140.50 237.00 377.50 320.67 268.54 .15 .06 .25 3.58 58 280 64.40 139.30 203.70 186.76 173. 16 .17 .12 .23 2.99 75 500 110.00 162.00 272.00 216.60 166.06 .11 .01 .22 2.21 122 793 198.25 641.00 739.25 695.33 566.35 .19 .03 .25 4.64 181 1,629 407.25 1,200.00 1,607.25 1,409.29 1,201.81 .13 .001 .25 6.64 96 450 90.00 425.00 515.00 277.65 190. 65 +.33 +.52 .20 1.99 S38 3,300 825.00 889. 00 1,714.00 1, 100. 22 832.72 .06 +.02 .25 2.46 198 1,600 352.00 626.00 978.00 63L34 655.34 .003 + .04 .22 2.80 314 2,590 647.60 1,000.00 1,647.50 1,053.80 835.80 .02 + .06 .25 2.66 157 544 163.20 541.84 905.04 400.61 282.11 +.26 +.47 .30 L80 144 1.150 287.50 624.00 911.50 879.75 590.11 .22 +.03 .25 4.10 160 1,200 300.00 600.00 900.00 706.35 573.85 .09 +.02 .25 3.59 102 600 168.00 325.00 493.00 376.60 301.40 .09 +.49 .22 2.96 124 724 166.52 812.50 979. 02 529.22 462.50 +.39 +.48 .25 3.73 155 1,250 287.60 808.00 1,095.50 639.75 468.98 +.13 + .26 .23 3.03 108 618 135.96 428.00 563.96 476.25 395.75 .08 +.05 .22 3.84 142 568 124.96 687.20 812. 16 452.67 289.67 +.06 +.35 .22 2.04 366 BEPOET OF TABIFP BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. Table XIX.— Mill grade of fleeces mostly three-eighths and one-quarter blood— Continued, \ KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 367 Num- ber of aheep. ( 166 217 117 92 103 127 216 63 610 330 208 379 100 137 155 70 146 228 153 229 m 183 156 91 125 995 45 100 57 819 61 198 51 63 33 194 145 150 204 104 80 325 689 53 201 32 25 50 2Si 88 213 85 40 69 159 95 139 29 228 228 66 111 35 Receipts- Pounds of wool. From wool. 648 1,325 798 610 750 810 1,358 450 2,856 2,738 2,868 3,200 1,670 800 1,025 1,273 600 11,376 1,200 900 738 1,361 1,283 1,155 1,400 378 4,025 190 650 &10 2,000 400 1,200 350 171 256 1,440 1,100 1,050 1,177 740 540 1,550 3,445 318 1,200 176 125 355 1,750 315 900 552 350 412 520 697 790 216 624 773 466 357 1174.96 291.50 191. 52 146.40 172.50 188.32 298.76 94.50 656.88 711.88 458.88 704.00 417.50 180.00 235.75 264.77 138.00 2,844.00 276.00 225.00 221.40 306.22 282.26 231.00 308.00 94.50 131.66 1,006.25 43.70 165.75 135.00 460.00 104.00 300.00 84.00 42.75 &1.00 360. {» 275.00 262. 50 211. 86 177.60 135.00 372.00 826.80 76. 32 300.00 52.80 28.75 106.35 393.06 78.75 252L00 135.60 84.00 9176 124.80 170. 76 181. 70 54.00 143.52 193.12 107.07 82.11 oaoo From other sources. 1636.80 785.00 425.00 299.20 470.00 1,002.00 1,134.00 130.00 1,113.92 324.11 450.00 1,756.00 262.00 90.00 363.50 220.00 112.00 4,300.00 500.00 761.00 366.00 783.00 750.06 557.45 573. 18 138.02 264.39 6,016.10 1G8.00 583.00 600.00 1,106.50 235.00 795.00 199.00 172.00 240.00 910.00 621.00 609.00 665.00 570.00 310.00 1,604.70 3,184.34 237.00 668.75 192.00 160.25 239.20 1,326.00 630.00 194.98 214.25 283.00 345.12 326.83 496.00 I06.I7 780.00 5ai.00 250.00 272 21 200.00 Total. 1811.76 1,076.50 616. 52 445.60 642.50 1,190.32 1,432.76 224.50 1,770.80 1,035.99 908.88 2,460.00 679.50 270.00 599.25 484.77 250.00 7,144.00 776.00 986.00 587.40 1,089.22 1,032.26 788.45 881.18 232.52 395. 95 6,222.35 211. 70 748.75 735.00 1,566.60 339.00 1,095.00 283.00 214.75 304.00 1,270.00 896.00 871.50 876.86 747.60 445.00 1,976.70 4,011. 14 313. 32 96S.75 244.80 189.00 345.55 1,719.06 357.55 882.00 330.58 298.25 377.76 469.92 497. 59 677. 70 210.17 923.52 717. 12 357.07 354.32 260.00 Expense on basis of— Market price of grain and hay. t660.90 756.69 629.91 232. 46 296.81 518.25 847.15 291.06 1,840.91 1,150.75 1,073.60 1,231.77 619. 05 299.79 518. 49 607.79 257.00 6,158.03 500.06 762. 15 661. 21 764.28 734. 78 601.35 492. 94 190.35 411.84 3,993.19 119. 48 351.60 469.40 1,179.76 243.45 1,001. 36 264.78 196.49 201.53 872.95 541,31 671. 75 833.04 660.20 345.82 600.60 1,171.41 128.17 607.74 140.84 136.86 203.55 1,657.56 293.77 721.74 267.86 177.17 262.43 422.77 373.65 544.20 114.48 474.34 672.53 227.67 217.64 119. 10 I Net charge against or net credit to wool per pound on basis of— Average cost of produc- tion of grain and hay. Mar- ket price of grain and hay. Aver- age cost of Jro- uc- tlon of grain and hay. 1427.88 566.69 421.11 206.76 261.11 491. 11 514.28 201.60 1, 198. 41 761. 75 880.80 951. 77 493.75 213.29 353.82 471. 16 185.63 4,818.63 386.11 585.20 478. 14 648.34 519. 98 522.78 365. 61 156.19 316. 19 3, 157. 98 90.33 264.40 37a 65 740.85 183.64 711.61 194.58 151. 17 153.98 639.70 426.76 613. 95 686.92 516.20 27^82 622.00 1,058.61 110. 17 607.74 107.67 116.17 151.68 1,207.18 211. 18 520.00 192.68 154.44 222.43 325.22 317. 00 452.00 89.07 471. 54 616.05 175. 56 229.36 103.84 10.19 +.02 .13 +.11 .30 +.60 .36 .36 .25 .30 .22 +.16 .25 .26 .15 .30 .23 .16 .01 .001 .40 +.01 +.01 .11 +.06 .14 I .25 +.25 +.26 +.36 +.24 .04 .02 .17 .19 .14 +.15 +.03 +.07 .06 .14 .12 .07 +.65 +.58 +.34 +.05 +.29 +.18 +.10 .13 .05 .10 .13 +.11 +.06 .15 .07 .06 +.19 +.49 .06 +.05 +.15 +.34 +•0.17 + .16 Sell- ing price per pound + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + .0041 .15 .27 .63 .45 .16 .03 .15 .14 .25 .13 .15 .09 .19 .11 .04 .09 .20 .15 .17 .18 .03 .15 .06 .09 .46 .41 .49 .41 .18 .13 .07 .01 .12 .33 .19 .17 .09 .07 .07 .06 .70 .62 .40 .13 .48 .34 .26 .07 .21 .13 .01 .17 .15 .04 .01 .05 .30 .50 .01 .17 .12 .40 10.27 .22 .24 .24 .23 .23 .22 .21 .23 . 26 .16 .22 .25 .224 .23 .22 .23 .25 .23 .26 .30 .22i .22 .20 .22 .25 .22 .25 .23 .25J .25 .23 .26 .25 .24 .25 .26 .25 .25 .25 .18 .24 .25 .24 .24 .24 .25 .30 .23 .30 .22 .25 .28 .24 .24 .23 .24 .24} .23 .25 .23 .25 .23 .23 ,25 Ex- pense per head. S2.58 2.61 3.60 2.25 2.54 3.87 2.38 3.20 2.35 2.31 4.23 2.51 2.19 2.13 2.58 3.04 2.65 3.05 2.64 2.57 3.13 2.39 4.44 2.86 2.34 1.72 2.53 3.17 2.01 2.64 6.61 2.32 3.01 3.59 3.82 2.40 4.67 3.30 2.95 3.43 2.87 4.96 3.49 1.61 1.54 2.08 2.49 3.36 4.65 3.03 4.25 2.40 2.44 2.27 3.86 3.22 2.05 3.34 3.2s 3.07 2.07 4.46 2.66 2 07 2.97 Table XIX. — Mill grade of fleeces mostly three-eighths and one-quarter blood — Continued. Net charge against or Receipts— Expense on basis of— net credit to wool per pound on basis of— SeU- ing Num- Pounds Aver- Ex- pease per head. ber of of age price aheep. wool. Market Average cost of Mar- ket cost of per IMund. From wool. From other sources. Total. price of Ijainand hay. produc- tion of grain and hay. price of grain and pro- duo- tlon of hay. grain and hay. 86 342 185 50 $160.00 $245.60 $153. 82 $124.22 +$ao2 +$0 10 $a25 $3.45 87 330 66.00 176.00 242.00 171. 61 148.86 + .01 + .08 .20 4.02 110 625 99.75 610.00 709.75 664.85 620.60 .10 + .18 .19 4.73 51 382 95.50 240.35 335.85 232.43 198.65 + .02 + .11 .25 3.90 66 520 135.20 365.00 500.20 418. 61 339.11 .10 + .05 .26 £.14 46 354 81.42 188.00 269.42 202.93 184.11 .04 + .01 .23 4.00 TO 660 134.40 330.53 464.93 322.83 239.95 + .01 + .16 .24 3.43 433 2,856 714.00 1,768.80 2,482.80 1,618.12 1,411.18 + .05 + .12 .25 3.26 25,990 159,396 38,061.69 76,018.05 114,099.74 92,771.05 72,225.05 .11 + .02 .24 2.78 The statistics contained in the foregoing tables are further sum- marized in the following statements; If if 368 EEPOBT or TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. \ O ** fl ^■2 fa's P.* § 1 o '*' •a O J" H 3 OS - S 8 55 o j^. s 28 ' + lO • ••••• CO t** 00$ V t^'^uS ^ ^ ^ M m lA *co M3 CQ O O C*D 00 CO 00 CO «-< S ii-i lOi loIogggS iooS3i~ liO- « 00 eg oo »-; CO S3S So SI S3i§Sl^gS5 §S 5^2 13 g Q g "^ OS oS OS «o3 a d Q C3 m O 3 5 o '^Hg^>> p REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUL.E K. 369 O >VA 03 4 ft fw 53-— O r* ^ I O o £■2 gli& ^coNC»i»-t< g OS 53 • a gggggg <_^ ^Hmf Swk' t^iM^ Sm' 1-2 1 t» TfHO eocoi OO'*; Oa6oieico«j lO oo t^ »0 CO i-H CO c»c2'c3ro~o(r *— 1 1-^ CO '''t* o »— * 88 e5S S rt ^- s A^ o (1h O :< «3 gJS^^S'^^^ l-^o CO to IfS t^ .-I lO < rH CO lO t^ ( !S tH rH 00 f >-l O 0>>0 «0 CO ■* CO CO 00 00 o" 00 1'- 00 1» f-l 1-H t^ 00 In. i» t- t>. lis CO :S^ eo 00 » "»• r^ oi t^ 3 t^ rH 05 00 ■»)» Irt O *-H t^ l—t OS cs* ^^8SSS O "5 -t?iQ >-< ?0 3S (£) o *o e«< n-4 0«r- ICO in 1-H OS CO 00 •O I ~- CO I* »^ CO ■* 00 "5 CO "3-* cDod'cooo—reo" r-«iHCO 88 si ooos or^cor^ N UO lO ^-4 I© OS eo CO o t^ r^ « 88 O CO •^ 4-S -M a a a 0) o « o o 5 C li l-< (-< b>. V d) « -SSSS w 03 ;3 3 d-g c c a c u C3 Cfl C3 c3 r^ ■•^ tn en CO CO c53? ♦5 +j -^ +i . ~j. h^ (— I I— ( 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 24 S70 OkS EEPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. i So*© §3 g S3S-n S "S Of I ;! 8 O 1J3 o I 2 M ^1 cnq w ^°i I ^4» 1^ I !2: 0) £3*" < t*i a o ^ ^ 2 § S S2j5 ^ • • • • • I I I +++ s^ ^ g^ s;e!;?i 8 8 8 ?3S8 • • • • • . ON + + C^^ CO to S « S «^8 • • • ♦ • • 8 + ^ CO C4 o S S 8353"= 2! £S SS ffi WSC eo lo 8 8^8 ss 38 an S^ IS 00 ^ « FHi ^Hl CM vO »Q « nJ OiCOOO ^^ So S Slo^ to CO n oo»-<'e«s' •^ '^ CO 00 o (O b» eg ^ eo n w f» t«- w o 5 o o i^ • CO • u «2 s ^ b ■s 5 3 5c-Sd5 *- 8=3 1 8§8 cij " K 5^ ''^> KEPOST OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI-E K, 371 These tables show that the smallest group is that in which the net charge against wool per pound is highest, that is, over 35 cents a pound, and that the largest group is that in which the net chaise against wool is lowest, that is, under 20 cents per pound. It will be noticed that the proportion of the total number of cases, of sheep, and of pounds of wool, respectively represented by any one group, steadily increases as the net charge against a pound of wool decreases. Table XVil, comprising the largest group, shows 43 per cent of the flocks, 39 per cent of the sheep, and 42 per cent of the wool cHp. These percentages are about double those of any other group, and the net charge against wool, which varies from 2 mills to 19 cents, is, on an average, 12 cents per pound. Since the average selling price is 24 cents a pound for this table there is left a margin of pront for every grower included. Table VI includes those cases m which the receipts from sources other than wool (sales of sheep and value of unsold lambs) equal or exceed the expenses, thus giving a net credit per pound of wool. Tills group includes the superior merino flocks, where purebred and high-grade lambs are being raised for stock purposes, and also those flocks where there are also considerable sales of mutton. The re- maining cases in which the operations result in a net credit per pound of wool appear in Table XIX. These are chiefly crossbred flocks where the receipts from the sales oi mutton are of pa^^mount importance. The receipts from other sources, which include the returns from sales of sheep and lambs and the value of unsold lamha which have gone in to maintain tlie flock, bear almost the same proportion to the total re- ceipts in each of the first four tables ; in Tables XVII and XVIII, where the net charge against a pound of wool becomes very low or disappears altogether, they show a decided mcrease, rishag to 62 per cent in the case of Table XVIII. It is mteresting to note that the variations in the selling price cor- respond to some extent with the variations in the net chaise against a pound of wool. Table XIII shows the highest seUing price andhas also the highest net charge per pound, and Table XVIII, having the lowest net charge per pound, has also the lowest selling price. This variation IS explained on the ground that the farmers who are getting a high pnce uniformly wash their wool, which increases the price obtained from 3 to 5 cents per pound. The wide variation from Table XIII to Table X\^II in the net charge agamst wool depends in the mam upon certain conditions which have already been discussed— the particular sort of flock kept, whether crossbred or pure wool; whether woolgroning is combmed with breeding; the importance for different purjwses of the annual increase of lambs; the extent to which wethers are kept; the amount and quality of wool produced, and the methods employed in the farm operations. An mspeetion of the average net charge per head for each of the seven tables, which appears m a tabular statement below, shows that in the table where there is a net credit to wool per pound the net charge per head is the same as m the tables m which the net charge is highest, namely, Tables Xni and XVIII, while in Table XIX it is almost a^ high. 372 BEPOBT OF TAMFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. REPOET OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 373 It will also bo seen that at the point where the profitableness of the industry begins, namely, in Table XVI, the charge per head is lowest and rises from this point as the profits increase. Net charge i>er pound of wool. Net charge per head. Receipts per head. Table. Wool. Other sources. Total. XIII 35 cents and above $2.81 2.m 2.50 2.27 2.30 2.81 2.78 $1.64 i.ra 1.77 1.89 1.94 1.99 1.47 10.46 .51 .71 .77 1.44 3.29 2.93 $2.10 2.24 2.49 2 fin XIV 30 cents and under 35 cents XV 25 cents and under 30 cents XVI 20 cents and under 25 cents XVII Under 20 cents 3.38 5.29 4.38 XVIII Net credit XIX Crossbred Of the 135 crossbred flocks represented, 121, or 90 per cent, show receipts from other sources which equal or exceed the receipts from wool, and on an average for all these flocks the receipts from other sources constitute about two-thirds of the total receipts. Of the 408 merino flocks, on the other hand, only 74, or 18 per cent, show receipts from other sources which equal or exceed the receipts from wool; while about one-half show receipts from otlier sources ranging from 22 to 29 per cent of the total receipts, and on an average for all the merino flocks, the receipts from other sources constitute a little less than one-third of the total receipts. In tlie case of crossbred flocks the receipts from other sources are derived almost entirely from mutton, and since the schedules show but few mature sheep sold except the ewes culled from the flock, such receipts must consist mainly of returns from sales of fat lambs. The wool sold is chiefly from the breeding ewes, as but few or no wethers are kept. In the case of the merino flocks, on the other hand, any considerable receipts from other sources arise from sales, not of mutton, but of stock sheep. It should, however, be pointe^ out that the board has endeavored not to include in these calculations flocks kept especially for supplying registered breeding stock. That the growers of this region are depending mainly on wool is further shown by the fact that of the total number of merino sheep reported in the schedules 21 per cent are wethers. The per- centages for certain typical merino counties are as follows: Belmont County, Ohio, 40 per cent; Coshocton County, Ohio, 25 per cent; Harrison County, Ohio, 36 per cent; Green County, Pa., 43 per cent; Marshall County, W, Va., 34 per cent. Since the only source of regular income from wethers is wool and the costs of maintenance are not materially lower than for breeding ewes, it is evident that though the fleece of the wethers may be superior to that of the ewes the higher the proportion of wethers in a flocJk the greater is likely to be the net charge against wool, since under the con- ditions now prevailing in this region, the tables indicate that the fleece of a sheep alone does not pay for its maintenance. The average total cost of maintenance per head is $2.78 in the case of the crossbred flocks and $2.44 in the case of the merino flocks. The greater expense of maintaining the crossbred sheep is due prob- ably to the fact that they are naturaUy larger feeders than the straight ■ merinos and partly to the fact that mutton production reguires heavier feeding than wool production. That the difference is not greater is attributable to the fact that some of the merino flocks represent a superior type, kept partly with a view to the sale of stock sheep, and to the further fact that the crossbred sheep are usually grown in agricultural sections, where harvested crops can be raised at relatively small expense. In the case of the crossbred flocks the average total maintenance costs per head are, as already stated, $2.78, and the average receipts per head from other sources than wool are $2.92. The receipts, therefore, pay the total costs and afford a balance of 16 cents, which, added to the total receipts per head from wool — $1.46 — produces a total of $1.62 per head as profit. ■f In the case of the merino flocks, the average total maintenance costs per head are $2.44 and the average receipts from other sources per head are only about $1.07, leaving a difference of $1.37 to be cov- ered by the average receipts from wool; and, since these amount to $1.88 per head, there remains 50 cents per head as average profit. ■ The majority of the merino sheep are found in the southeastern part of Oliio and the adjacent regions of Pennsylvania and West Virginia and in southern Michigan. The statistics of merino flocks presented in the tables concern flocks of more than the average size m the region, but the board is convinced that the statistics presented would also hold true of the smaller flocks, and that, therefore, the average net charge of 19 cents against a pound of wool may be accepted as the average net charge for the entire region. Of the 10,000,000 crossbred sheep, a considerable part are kept un- der such conditions as to yield larger profits than do the crossbred flocks considered in Table AlX of this report. On the other hand, many of them are kept under conditions more unfavorable than those of the crossbreds reported. But it is probably true that in an average for the crossbred flocks of the region as a whole the receipts from other sources are quite sufficient to meet the total costs of mamtenance, and therefore the receipts from wool remain as profit. COSTS IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, AND GERMANY. In England many small flocks are kept by farmers who depend chiefly on grain growing or some other form of general agriculture, but most of the sheep are run in comparatively large flocks in regions of more extensive agriculture, where the soil is so light that if cropped it must be constantly fertilized. In both cases the fertilizing power of the flock pla3^s an important r6le and the system of flock hus- bandry is planned with a view to deriving the greatest possible benefit from this source. Both large and small flocks are carefully shepherded and are constantly moved about for the purpose of giv- ing the sheep change of feed and in order to prevent disease and keep the health of the flock at a high level. Careful farm economy reauires the expenditure of much labor in order that the best pos- sible use may be made of the by-products and waste of the farm and the maximum value derived from the manure of the sheep. In the United States the flock owner, as already noted, estimates that the value of the fertilizer offsets the cost of the labor of caring for the flock, but in England the feeding methods are such that the 374 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOKT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 375 value of the manure far outweighs the labor costs, although so much more labor ia expended on the cai-e of the flock that, despite the lower rates of wages, these costs are somewliat higher than m the United States. Although land values and rents are often higher in England tlian in the United States, forage costs are no higher and if the real effectiveness of the forage be taken into account they can scarcely be considered as high. Tins is due to the fact that in England the pas- tures receive careful attention and many crops, such as rape, roots, etc., are grown especially for the sheep, so that the breeoing flock does not require expensive, concentrated foods, whereas m the United States pastures receive less attention and many flock owners are not willing to take the trouble to grow special crops. In the investigation into conditions in the Ohio region indeed, the number of farmers who reported special crops grown for sheep was so small as to be negligible. It should, however, be pointed out that, since the winter mmate of our com belt is much more severe than that of England, more extensive feeding of harvested crops is necessarv. The English flock owner considere wool a by-product, and there- fore his net charge against wool is not of much sigiulicance as throw^- ing light on the conditions of flock husbandry. Estimates made especially for the board by a prominent English authority show that about one-fifth of the total receipts from the flock are derived from wool and that the average yield per head of sheep is about 5 pounds of wool, worth about $1, and one lamb, worth aoout $5, and since this same authority estimates that the entire costs per head of sheep, including labor costs, are about $4.16, it is seen that English sheep husbanihy is fairly profitable. That tne industry is a Mttle more than holding its own is shown by the fact that whereas in 1900 there were approximately 15,900,000 sheep in England, in 1909-10 there w^re somewhat more than 16,000,000. In so far as general flock husbandry is concerned, what has been said of England is equally true of France and Germany. There is careful shepherding; the sheep are made the gleanere of the farm; and the greatest possible use is made of their fertilizer. But labor costs are probably somewhat liigher in France and somewhat lower in Germany than in England, and in neither of these countries do sheep play as important a role as in England in general farm economy. In France tliis is due to the greater intensiveness of agriculture, wliile in Germany it is partly due to the lower esteem in wiiich mut- ton is held. In France the production of mutton has gradually become the chief object of flock husbandrv and the transition has been made by means of the development of a mutton type of merino, the Ram- bouiUet, and of another type quite equal to the Rambouillet, the Dishley merino, produced by crossing the merino with an English mutton tjrpe. In these sheep the French have combined many qualities of the merino fleece with a large carcass of excellent mutton. In certain famous flocks visited by an agent of the board, the sheep were shearing as high as from 9 to 11 pounds of fine medium wool, bringing the grower, in 1910, from 18 to 20 cents a pound, and lambs worth, when fat, from $8 to $10. Owing to the fact that in France sheep are usually run on higher priced land than in England, the costs of production per sheep are somewhat higher; but this difference is quite made up by the fineness of the fleece and the high price of mutton, so that, measured by the net returns per head of sheep, flock husbandry is possibly more profitable in France than in England. Still, the industry is scarcely holding its own, as shown by the fact that whereas in 1900 there were 20,000,000 sheep in France, in 1909-10 there were only about 17,000,000. Germany has long been noted for its production of the fine Saxony merino wools, and as the sheep producing this wool was the prevailing type in Germany and has little mutton value, the fall in the price of wool was a serious blow to the industry. In those regions of Germany where conditions have been favorable and the emphasis has been shifted from wool to mutton, conditions approach those in France. But the readjustment has not been carried so far, and many German flock owners still raise the fine- wool sheep, which barely pay for their keep. That the industry as a whole is declining is snown by the fact that while in 1900 there were about 10,000,000 sheep in Germany, in 1909-10 there were only about half as many. WAS THE YEAR UNDER REVIEW A NORMAL ONE? It is apparent that in the year under review the costs of wool production were higher in the United States than in any other countries considered. Therefore, unless, owing to unusual weather conditions or abnormal prices, this period is to be regarded as having been an abnormal year for flock husbandry in some of the countries under consideration, the evidence of the statistics presented may be accepted as indicative of the general situation as to wool produc- tion in the Western States and the other countries concerned. Climatic variations from year to year affect the flock industry much more seriously in some of these countries than in others. In New Zealand and South Africa, while there may be decided climatic variations from year to year, especialljr in the latter country, the intimate connection of the flock industry with agriculture enables the sheep growers to meet these extremes without appreciable effect on their returns. ^ In the eastern region of the United States, also, flock husbandry is so intimately associated with general agriculture as to be but slightljr affected by climatic variations from year to year. Such variations do, it is true, affect the prices of the harvested crops fed to sheep; but since the costs of producing such crops do not fluctuate very widely from year to year, httle account need be taken of climatic influences in such connection. In the western region of the United States, in Austraha, and in South America there is no such association of the flock industry with agriculture, and the very great climatic extremes profoundly affect the prosperity of the flock owner. In the western United States climatic variations from year to year are, however, so different in different parts of the region and even, in many cases, on different ranges of the same locahty as to produce no appreciable effect on the average returns from the flock industry of the region as a whole. In Austraha, on the other hand, climatic extremes are much more severe and widespread, and sometmies result in general prostration of 376 REPOBT OP TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 377 the industry, as in the case of the drought of 1902. Since that year Austrahan flock husbandry has enjoyed a high degree of prosperity, and within this period the year 1909-10 may be regaraed as one of average conditions. Since the profits of these lat years wOl surely have to be shared with lean years yet to come, the conditions of 1909-10 must be regarded as somewhat more favorable than the average. But it is to be remembered that part of the operating costs of that year were incurred in anticipation of less favorable conditions and that as a result of such preparations and the improvement of transportation facihties the Australian flock owners are now better able than ever before to bear the strain of unfavorable years, so that in all probabihty such a disaster as that of 1902 will not recur and the future average prosperity of the industry should closely approximate that of 1909-10. The situation of South America with regard to the influence of climatic variations on its flock industry is similar to that of Australia. The year 1909-10 was one of rather exceptionally favorable condi- tions for South American flock husbandry; but since the industry had not fuUy recovered from the severe drought of the year before, the statistics for 1909-10 may be regarded as fairlv typical. It may, therefore, be concluded that as far as the influence of unusual weather conditions is concerned the year 1909-10 was prac- tically a normal year for flock husbandry in all the countries under consideration. The average price received for mutton in the United States in 1909-10 was about the same as the five-year average, while that received for wool was about 3 cents under the five-year average. And since this year's output of wool and mutton was about normal the receipts of the industry were somewhat below the average. It is clear that in former years profits have been greater in the western United States than they were during the period covered by this inquiry. In the other countries considered wool and mutton prices were about normal in 1909-10, but in Australia and New Zealand receipts from sources other than wool were somewhat higher than the five-year average, owing to the increased emphasis on mutton production and the strong demand for stock sheep; but unless disaster overtakes the industry these receipts are not likely to become less, and conse- quently it seems fair, in a consideration of the future of the Austra- lasian flock industry, to accept the returns of 1909-10 as normal. Since, therefore, there seems to be no evidence that in any of the countries under consideration the returns from flock husbandry in the period under review were other than practicaUy normal, the con- clusion seems inevitable that under present conditions wool produc- tion is less profitable in the United States than in any of these other countries. A NATIONAL AVERAGE CHARGE PER POUND OP WOOL IN THE UNITED STATES OP 9 J CENTS. The situation may be summed up as follows: In the western region of the United States, with approximately 35,000,000 sheep, the net charge against a pound of wool is about 1 1 cents. In the other sections, with about 15,000,000 sheep, the net ( charge against a pound of wool from the merino sheep, which number approximately 5,000,000, is about 19 cents, and the net charge against the wool grown on sheep of the crossbred type is negligible. On an average for the United States as a whole the net charge against a pound of "fine" wool is a fraction over 12 cents. Accepting 19 cents as the average charge against a pound of wool of a distinctly fine or fine medium character grown in the farming States, 11 i3ents as a fair average for the western States, and assum- ing that on an average the smaller farm flocks of a distinctly mutton or coarse wool type pay for their own wool, and giving each class its approximate relative weight in the calculation, a general average for the entire clip of the country, aU grades included, would be about 9 J cents per pound. As intimated above, while the expenses in the United States during the year under review were fully up to the average for a series of yeai*s, the receipts fell below the average. It is but fair, therefore, to assume that the estimated income of 6.2 per cent should, under normal receipts, [be considerably increased. There is no contin- gency, however, in sight that can by any possibility place domestic growers on an equality in the matter of costs with their competitors m South America, Australasia, and the Cape Colonies. The foregoing deals mainly with production costs. Certain details touching the general conditions surrounding production in the various competing countries are presented elsewhere in the form of special reports. PART 11. RAW WOOLS -SECTION 2. WOOL SHRINKAGES AND METHODS OF LEVYING DUTIES ON RAW WOOL. 379 WOOL SHRIirKAGES AS RELATED TO TARIFF RATES. Wool contains, when it leaves the back of the sheep, various sub- stances that must be removed before it can be sent to the cards. In its natural condition it is usually known as *^raw wool'' or '^grease wool." After the removal of the impurities it is known as ''clean wool " or ''scoured wool.'' The loss in weight due to the cleaning process is the "shrinkage" of the wool, and the amount of this shrinkage varies greatly with wools of differing grades, qualities, and countries. For obvious reasons the manufacturer is concerned to know, not the amount of grease wool in a lot that is offered for sale, but rather the yield or amount of clean wool that may be procured from the lot after it is scoured. His object when purchasing foreign wool under the present method of levying the duty is to select those lots of the quality he needs that have the lightest shrinkage, the duty being the same on lots of equal weight in the raw state, however different their shrinkage may be. As one result of this, various wools of heavy shrinkage can not be profitably imported into the United States. Another result is the practice abroad of preparing and selecting the light-shrinking sorts that are peculiarly suitable for the American trade. Certain manufacturers complain of the first result, on the ground that it prevents them from using the heavier-condi- tioned wools of foreign origin. Domes tic- wool growers, on the other hand, complain of the second result on the ground that it enables manufacturers to procure clean wool of the light-shrinking sorts at a materially lower net rate of duty than the law apparently contem- plated. The board finds that both of these complaints are well founded and that steps should be taken to remove the cause. We have samples, for example, of fine Cape and Austrafian greasy fleeces that would shrink up to, sav, 73 per cent in the scouring. These are short wools of very desirable quality for woolen manufacture; but it is apparent that fleeces that yield but 27 pounds of clean wool per hundredweight, entered upon the basis of 11 cents in the grease, would really be paying a duty of 40 cents per pound of clean content. Such a rate is essen- tially prohibitive. Certain woolen manufacturers desire access to the world's supply of the low-grade, cheap byproducts of the skirting and sorting processes. The wool thus separated from the main body of a fleece may be very short, it may be coarse, and it is almost certain to be heavily weighted with dirt. In Australia this skirting refuse is often scoured before being shipped, because it brings such a low price in the grease and is so heavy that it is unprofitable to send it forward in the greasy state. As the present duty on scoured wool, however, is 33 cents per pound, it is obviously impracticable for manufacturers to import these low-grade sorts. Since they could profitably be utiHzed for fiUing purposes, it seems certain that if the law were to be modifiied so as to permit of their importation such wools might be introduced into the weaving of fabrics which now admittedly carry large percentages of shoddy or cotton. 381 382 BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. The complaint of the grower of domestic wools that he is not now and has not during ail these years been receiving the amount of i)ro- tection nominally extended by the 11-eent duty on the grease pound is based upon the heavy shrinkage of the domestic fleece as agamst the light-conditioned skirteil wools selected for importation primarily for their large net yield. An examination of the existing duties will show that the schedule is constructed upon the theory that wool shrinks 661 per cent in the scouring. Since, however, it is certain that the wools actually imported shrink sometliing less than 40 per cent, it is obvious that instead of paying $11 duty for every 33i pounds of actual wool brought in, the importer is really securing some 60 pounds at a rate of not to exceed 18 cents per scoured pound. In order that this matter may be more clearly understood, the board has prepared a tabular statement in which the full effect of shrinkages upon the actual operation of the existing wool duties is shown : Table I.—Presml gream-pound reits with computed scoured-pound equivaUnU. Kirlnlcaflt. 75 per cent. 70 per cent, dfiperoent. GO per c^at . 56 percent. 50 per cent. 45 per cent . 40 per eeut . 35 per cent . 30 per cent . 25 per eent . 20 per cent . Actual duty on scourfd content. Class I wools.— Duty per pound, 11 cents. Class I [ wools. — Duty per pouna, 12 cents. As will appear further on, the real point of interest in the case of Class I wool IS that part of the computation affecting wools shrinking 35 per e^nt and upward, and in the case of Class II wools the actual business is handled at the iigures appearing in the lower half of the column. It should be stated that practically all of the domestic clip, if offered for entry at our ports, w^ould fall under Class I of the existing law. That is to sav, the great bulk of the wool grown in the United States shows the lise of merino blood, either immediate or remote, in its production. Imports under Class II are relatively ummportant and tfiere is no longer valid reason for the maintenance of the dis- tinction as between the English and merino wools so long in force. It must be obvious from a consideration of these figures that no proper understanding of the operation of any given specific rate of dutv is possible without full knowledge of relative shnnkixges; that is to sav, of the actual clean wool content of the various leading cUps of the United States and other large producing countnes. On account of the importance of this question the board has endeavored EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDUUE K. 383 to develop the facts, first by a careful examination of a large number of records of actual scourings of unbroken and unblended lots in both foreign and domestic estabUshments, and where these were not accessible, by obtaining carefully computed estimates from recog- nized and disinterested authorities. The practice common to n[iany manufactiirers of blending various foreign and domestic grades before scouring rendered the figures obtained from many mills useless for the purpose in view, and these were accordingly discarded. But the board has ascertained the clean yield of so many milUons of pounds of straight unblended lots that it believes the results establish beyond any reasonable doubt the shrinkage of the leading competing clips, as actually marketed. THE SHRINKAGE OF FINE WOOLS. First and foremost comes the question of the relative shrinkages of the fine sorts that are so largely produced in Australia and the United States. South America also grows large quantities of merino fleeces — more especially in Uruguay — and the African Cape figures prominently in this trade. New Zealand, Argentina, ana portions of Australia produce the famous "crossbred" wool so useful in the worsted trade, wliile the Class III or carpet wools come from a great number of sources, largely Asiatic. It should be stated at the outset th.at in the case of both Ohio and Territory (domestic) wools, the figures deal with the unwashed fleece substantially as it comes from the sheep's back; whereas the foreign- frown wools of like character, scoured in American nulls, have usually een shorn of their locks, necks, bellies, etc., and selected from clips produced in districts comparatively free from sand, burs, and other undesirable substances. This fact should also be borne in mind in comparing prices paid for the domestic and foreign fleeces. In other words, we are dealing with our own wools in bulk and with the com- peting wool on a net basis, after manipulation designed to lighten their condition to the last degree possible without having recourse to washing or scouring. This explains the marked difference developed by the actual scouring returns we have obtained from the records of American mills as between the foreign and domestic fleece. The figures from European sources demonstrate the truth of the assertion that the heavier foreign wools tinder the operation of our present law naturally find their way into British and continental markets. Table II. — Amount and per cent of shrinkage of clean wool resulting from scouring specified grades of fine wool having their origin in given localities. Eastern United States, In United BtJit«» miriB. Western United States, la United Statin mills. South American. Australian. In United States mills. In foreign mills. In United States millf). In foreign mil Ik. Pounds in greaae.. PouikIs ncuured 4,262,813 I, TOP, 002 60.00 46,996,576 15,390.892 67.25 1,^¥«.666 674,755 47.64 8,846.401 3,550,597 59.90 11,067,147 5,730,238 4S.22 29,967,258 I2,y3;,mi 56. S2 Per cent of siiriokage. 884 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. In th© preparation of these figures care was used to eliminate all data whicn from any cause seemed lacking in the elements essential to the accuracy of such a computation. Many millions of pounds were thus rejected; so that the board regards the results obtained, for all practical purposes, dependable. The calculation, it will bo observed, is based upon the cleaning of 100,000,000 pounds of fine wool in various American and European plants. The table shows that the fine wools of Australia and South America shrink less than do the &^e wools of this country, a fact due, as already stated, largely to the removal of the ''skirt." Therefore, the Ameri- can purchaser of 100 pounds of fine fleece in the grease secures a yield in clean wool of — From wool of the Western States pounds. . 32. 75 From wool of the Ohio region ao fi'^ From wool of Australia ^^ ^^- J° From wool of South America - ^^ ^^- ^ It is clear from this table that wool of heavy shrinkage from Australia and South America comes to this country in very small quantities. From South Africa, a region where the shrmkage is heavier than in either of the other foreign countnes, relatively littlo wool of any sort is imported— «o little, indeed, that in the American mills investigated the Tariff Board did not find enough to tabulate its scoured yield. It is highly valued for fine felting purposes and m the manufacture of very fine woolens. , , , Hehnuth Schwartze & Co., of London, advise the board that less than 20 per cent of the merino wools produced in Austraha, South America, and the Cape would shrink over 65 per cent. They also estimate that out of this total production only about 5 per cent to 8 per cent should shrink up to 70 to 75 per cent. Eiver Plate wools shipped to Europe contam fully 6 per cent- more burs than those imported into America. In both England and Germany cards are fitted with special appliances for elimmatmg these. Probably 75 per cent of the Argentine wool imported into the United States is bought on the basis of a guaranteed peld. The value of these figures readily appears when applied to the table firet above presented. It is certam that the Australian and South American merinos are entering our markets to-day upon a computed basis of about 21 cents per scoured pound. CROSSBREDS. There is an enormous quantity of wool produced m Australasia and South America known in the trade as *' crossbred" that haa practically no equivalent in our domestic production. Large quan- tities of I blood and J blood are grown locaUy into the production of which merino blood has entered. ,. i ,. .-, x There are some of the British long-wooled rams (mcludmg Cx)t9- wolds) used by domestic growers, but relatively they are m the minority for this particular use in this country. Hence the cross- bred wools of the Southern Hemisphere and the so-called luster grades may be said to represent types not largely m evidence in the domestic suonlv Crossbred fleeces, like the southern merinos, usually come to market graded and skirted, and as all coarser wools carry less oil REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 385 naturally than the fine we find the foreign crossbreds going tlirough the scouring mills with a comparatively light percentage of shrink and a good yield of clean wool. Table III. — Amount of clean wool and per cent of shrinkage resulting from scouring foreign crossbreds and dom£Stic wools grading one-half blood and under. I blood and under (domestic wools): Pounds in grease Pounds scoured Per cent of shrinkage § blood: Poimds In grease Pounds scoured Per cent of shrinkage I blood: Pounds in grease Pounds scoured Per cent of shrinkage J blood: Pounds In grease Pounds scoured Per cent of shrinkage Eastern United States, in United States mills. 9,101,974 4,858,984 46. C2 Western United States, in United States mills. 15,917,633 6,003,731 62.28 3,213.783 1, 483, 743 53.83 1,510,985 785,474 48.09 South American. In United States mills. 738, 711 373,482 49.44 4,215.956 2, 785, 513 33.93 12,537,310 8.379,071 33.17 In foreign mills. Australian, in United States mills. 3,720,225 1, G70, 291 65.01 27.394,408 17,431,779 36.44 4,467,078 2,540,609 43.13 1.995,100 1,252^492 37.26 145,267 102.557 29.40 It thus appears that there is a similar thougli not so great a dis- crepancy between the yield of the lower grades of wool grown in the United States and that imported from abroad as there is in the case of the finer wools. The fact is that South American and other for- eign wools in all grades for wliich trustworthy scouring records were obtained show a higher shrinkage in foreign mills than in the mills of the United States. The same condition prevails with regard to grades for which scouring records were not secured, but the degree of difference in such cases, being a matter of estimate, can not be given in exact figures. The board has procured a large amount of data from various for- eign combing and conditioning plants — British, French, German, and Belgian — bearing upon the shrinkage of various wools, but some of this material was lor various reasons not strictly comparable, and is therefore not submitted. In so far as it can be brought to a rea- sonably fair basis of comparison, it substantiates not only the figures printed above, but tends to confirm the accuracy of two interesting estimates especially prepared for the board by the well-known house of Helmuth Schwartze & Co., of London, which are herewith appended. Needless to say, this firm can not and does not extend any guarantee as to actual results from individual purchases of wool of the different qualities hsted; but their standing is such as to give con- fidence in the approximate accuracy of any computations of this character made under their supervision. They were asked to prepare two statements — one covering the colonial wools, regarded as most nearly coming within the range of United States buying, under the operation of our existing tariff, and another dealing with the shrinkages of the heavier grades, commonly supposed to be virtually excluded from the American market. The figures follow: 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 25 ■Hi mm S86 BEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOAIB OH SCHEDULE K, Table IV.—Eatmate of the approximate shrinhages of Colomal grease wools {based am an average year)'. IPrepared with special reference to the Ughter-conditioned wools suitable for the American market under ' * existing coaditions.1 Description according to quality (counts). Merino: 708-808, clothing. 70s 64a-708 &48, waff 64s, combing 6Qs 588 CrasBbred: 608, comeback SSb fi6s, |bkx>d fiOs, I blood 466, i blood i(lB-44s, low J 86s-40s Oeelong, Port Phillip. Per cent. 47-49 4e-48 45-47 U-45 4S-47 46-48 44-46 S»-40 37-38 37-38 35-36 31-32 2&-30 2&-26 R'.verina, Port PMlUp. Per cerU. fiO-52 46-48 4£^-46 46^18 48-SO 4&-43 4(M2 3»-40 3&-40 36-37 m-m 27-28 Sydney (New South Wales). land. Adelaide (south Au»- tralia). Percent. 50-52 46-48 47-49 ') Per cent. S2-54 Slv'''''SSi 47-49 46-48 48-50 susa Percent. 54-56 53-55 53-55 62-64 62-M 50-62 South Aus- tralia, south- eastern district, including Portland Bay. Per cent. 48^50 49-51 48-50 48-50 48-50 4«>-48 West Aus- tralian. Per cent. 40-42 3SM0 39-tO 36-37 33-34 30-32 26-28 80-52 48-50 51-53 51-53 50-52 New Zea- land. Per cent. 5&-56 62-54 52-54 50-^52 52-54 63-55 40-12 38-40 32-36 28-30 25-27 20-23 » Quantity small. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE AND NATAL. Per cent. C3alfdofi (10 months) ffif Mosael Bay (10 months).. ^I^ Karoo 70s (12 months) **^*^^ Kaffrarian: , ^ rocK . Farmers (12 months) ^T^ Fanners (6 months) ^T?! Natal (good average combing) ^TJ^ Orange Kiver Colony (average combmg) ---- "'^^ Tablb Y.^Esiimatea of approximaie shrinkages of the Umer grades of colonial grease wools. Descriptlan according to ginning qualities (co*ints). Mermo: FkeceTOs Fleece 70s, very wasty. . . Fleece 64s, vay wasty. . - FlaeceeOB Fleece 608, very wasty. . . Broken fleeces 60s Broken fteeces 6Qb, wasty. Crossbred: 58s 668... mi. .>••. New Booth Wales.. Mon- aro (blue). Per el. 65-59 67-61 64-58 66^60 64r^ fi6-60 64-56 66-68 40s-4l8. Albert and Lach- lan (red). Per a. 66-60 69-62 66-38 57-61 6&-58 66-60 64-66 Victoria ( I'ort Phil- lip). Peret. 6&-60 69-62 66-68 57-61 65-58 66-CO 50^2 66-68 40-42 38-40 36-38 33-35 30^32 Queens- land. Per et. 60-62 63-65 68-60 61-64 66-58 68-60 54-56 66-68 Ado- laido (red). PerdL 60-62 63-65 68-60 62-M 57-59 60-62 56-58 60-61 West Aus- tralia (blue). Peret. 6^57 6»-80 54-56 67-59 66-58 60-62 0) 41M7 42-44 40-43 38-40 West Aus- tralia (red). Peret. 67-59 60-62 66-58 69-61 68-60 63-65 55-57 68-60 New Zea- land. Peret. 66-68 60-62 65-57 58-60 66-58 69-61 &4-56 66-68 45-47 42-44 40-42 38-40 32-36 28-31 Punta Arraiaa (Pata- gonia and Chile). PereL 6Wi7 61-53 48-50 44-46 40-43 37-39 t Too mixed BEPOET OF TAKIFF BOABD OIT SCHEDULE K. 387 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE AND NATAL. Percent. Karoo 70s (12 montlis) J2-«4 Do. (very wasty ) T^^ East lyondon (12 months) Yt^ Do. (very wasty) ii»-Ti I It will be observed that we do not undertake to give an average shrinkage for all the wool of any country. This is due to the fact that records were obtained for very different quantities of the different grades, and unless it were possible to ascertain the proportion of the production of ea<^ grade in a country to the total production of that country a fair average shrinkage of the whole wool cUp could not be given. It may be said in this connection, however, that the estimates of Helmuth Schwartze & Co. are universally accepted in the trade. The shrinkage of the total wool production of the leading countries, calculated from their circular of March 14, 1911, is in percentages, as follows: The United Kingdom (fleece washed), 25.1; European contment (fleece washed), 33.33; North America, 54.96; Australasia, 48.54; Cape of Good Hope, 58.4; River Plata, 51.04. A detailed estimate of the usual yields and shrinkages of all the leading *' sorts" of foreign wools of Class I and Class II, compiled for the board by a well-known trade authority in Bradford, England, is filed in supplementary form. THE EXISTING LAW IN OPERATION. To illustrate the actual operation of the present law, there is pre- sented below a complete record of the purchases of foreign wool by a representative American mill a^egating more than 10,000,000 pounds. The facts contained in this record have been tabulated to show the actual amount of the present duty on such Class I wool as is now largely imported when reckoned on the scoured pound and when computed m aa valorem terms. Table VI. — A record of actual importations and semirings in a representative American millj covering nfwre than 10,000,000 pounds of Class I wool. AUSTRALIAN MERINOS. Date of importation. Nnmber of bales. Net wdght. Yield. Price per pound scoured. Duty paid per pound scoured. Price per pound scoured, duty paid. Duty paid ad valorem. 1905. Dec.6 52 35 107 27 23 117 64 90 197 93 72 22 14 Pounds. 14,855 12,171 85,093 7,715 7,796 41,067 21,814 25,837 65,668 31,946 22,655 6,760 4,983 Percent. 60.98 48.00 55.00 49.59 49.60 54.00 62.81 61.10 66.00 60.18 61.50 61.50 61.50 Cents. 61.03 50.68 50.60 53.82 53.32 57.13 * 54.56 53.64 57.00 55.44 53.64 55.64 65.64 Cents. 21.57 22.92 20.00 22.18 22.18 30.37 20.83 21.36 20.00 21.92 21.36 21.36 21.36 Cents. 72,60 73.60 70.60 76.00 75.50 77.50 75.39 75.00 77.00 77.36 75.00 77.00 77.00 Per cent. 42.3 Dec.9 45.2 Dec.ll 39.5 Dec. 22 41.2 1906. Jan. 13 41. S Mar. 30 !'".!!".!!.*!.!.... 3S.7 1907. Jan. 24 38.3 Jan. 24 39.8 Jan. 24 35.1 Jan. 29 39.5 Jan. 31 39. S Jan. 31 38.4 Jan. 31 3S.4 OOO BfiPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD 02^" SCHEDULE K. Table VT. — -4 record of actual importations and scourings in a representative Ammcan] millj covering more than 10,000,000 pounds of Class Iivool — Continued. AUSTRALIAN MERINOS— Continued. Date of importation Tan. 31 . Jan. 31 . Jan. 31 . Feb. 1.. Feb. 8.. Mar. 16. Oct. 4.. Nov. 23 . Nov. 25. Nov. 18. Nov. 19. Nov. 19. Nov. 25 . Nov. 25 . Nov. 23. Nov. 16. Nov. 23. Dec. 30. Dec. 6.. Dec. 10. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Oct. Dec. Nov. Nov, Nov, Nov, Nov. Nov. Nov. Nov. Nov. Nov. Nov. Dec. Dec. Dec. Jan. 9 Jan. 27 Jan. 27.... Jan. 29 Jan. 29.. . . , Jan.9 Feb.5 Feb.6 Feb. 6 Feb. 2 Jan. 18 Jan. 18 Jan. 18 Jan. 18 Jan. 16 Jan. 16..... •Jan. 23 Jan. 23 Jan. 25 Jan. 25 Xl^Ul . 1008. 6 6 25 31 31 11 31 11 20 20 25 9 11 , ZJ I ifO * • w . • ,23 21 21 28 • 28 . . . . . 28 28 28 28 2 21. 21 15 15 1909. Number of bales. 17 106 203 268 223 231 163 105 86 C8 50 69 57 61 65 39 104 80 43 51 120 7 90 99 41 36 14 58 56 131 107 54 210 190 6 132 446 190 160 40 92 174 81 117 416 67 54 13 96 52 146 140 378 120 45 268 14 45 6 431 78 28 128 220 302 51 233 26 94 148 Net weight. Pounds. 5,394 33.528 63.477 103,953 74,906 84,739 61.505 33.623 26,538 23,457 14,764 22,574 14,887 18,608 20,327 10.986 29,142 19,618 10,936 17.160 30,888 2,106 10, 171 32,298 1«,004 11,560 3,266 20,091 15,424 35,127 29.919 18,896 72,931 64,102 1,493 41,903 142,579 61, 314 44.111 13, 157 28,489 60,542 27,016 37,Cfi8 137, 178 17,093 19,166 4,564 31.610 16,591 41,790 47.136 129, g45 33.358 13,737 74,030 4,236 17,483 2,014 125,854 27,448 8,822 44,112 70,244 97,818 16,661 74,369 9,494 32,064 49,320 Yield. Per cent. 51.50 50.25 50.51 52.36 52.35 49.50 50.00 47.00 47.60 51.00 54.00 55.60 53.00 53.00 63.66 51.76 52.67 52.00 52.00 53.50 52.50 52.50 53.50 52.15 54.00 61.00 62.50 51.25 52.50 51.50 51.00 62.50 60.25 60.00 53.00 62.00 62.92 49.45 49.21 52.50 53.00 62.25 49.86 49.21 50.20 48.98 54.00 50.00 53.21 55.43 54.50 50.50 50.75 50.69 51.22 54.50 51.50 48.75 52.00 52.50 52.00 53.00 51.50 50.00 49.50 49.00 50.58 50.00 63.49 6a 96 Price per pound scoured. (kntt. 53.64 64.61 66.44 47.24 60.24 51.28 64.75 56.60 53.84 51.43 56.63 60.20 56.25 69.25 59.51 68.75 66.12 68.85 65.85 62.44 51.05 66.05 59.44 56.91 60.63 49.43 63.05 49.54 56.05 52.64 55.43 56.05 50.11 60.00 51.25 50.85 51.21 49.76 49.65 50.05 52.25 61.95 49.94 49.65 47.08 49.54 60.63 45.00 46.33 62.16 63.82 50.22 50.33 50. :« 50.53 63.82 45.64 49.43 45.85 49.00 48.85 60.25 50.64 50.00 49.78 47.53 50.25 48.00 51.44 60.41 Duty paid per pound scoured. Cents. 21.36 21.89 21.78 21.01 21.01 22.22 22.00 23.40 23.16 21.57 20.37 19.80 20.75 20.75 20.49 21.25 20.88 21.15 21.15 20.56 20.95 20.95 20.56 21.09 20.37 21.57 20.95 21.46 20.95 21.36 21.57 20.95 21.89 22.00 20.75 21.15 20.79 22.24 22.35 20.95 20.75 21.05 22.06 22.35 21.92 22.46 20.37 22.00 20.67 19.84 20.18 21.78 21.67 21.70 21.47 20.18 21.36 22.57 21.25 21.00 21.15 20.75 21.36 22.00 22.22 22.47 21.75 22.00 20.56 21.69 Price per pound scoured, duty paid. CerUs. 75.00 76.50 77.22 68.25 71.25 73.50 76.75 80.00 77.00 73.00 77.00 80.00 77.00 80.00 80.00 80.00 77.00 80.00 77.00 73.00 72.00 77.00 80.00 78.00 71.00 71.00 74.00 71.00 77.00 74.00 77.00 77.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 71.00 73.00 73.00 72.00 72.00 69.00 72.00 71.00 67.00 67.00 72.00 74.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 74.00 67.00 72.00 67.00 70.00 70.00 71.00 72.00 72.00 72.00 70.00 72,00 70.00 72 00 72.00 1 Duty paid ad valorem. PereenL 39.8 40.1 39.3 44.5 41.8 43.3 40.2 41.3 43.0 41.0 36.0 32.9 36.9 35.0 34.4 36.2 37.2 35.9 37.9 39.2 41.0 37.4 34.6 37.1 40.2 43.6 39.5 43.3 37.4 40.6 38.9 37.4 43.7 44.0 50.5 41.0 40.0 44.7 45.0 41.8 39.7 40.5 44.2 45.0 46.6 55.3 41.0 48.9 44.0 38.0 37.5 43.4 43.1 43.1 42.0 37.5 46.8 45.7 46.1 42.9 43.3 41.3 42.2 44.0 44.6 47.2 43.3 45.8 400 42.8 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 389 Table VT. — A rward of actual importations and scouring s in a representative American mill, covering more than 10,000,000 pounds of Class I wool — Continued. 1^ I AUSTRALIAN MERINOS— Continued. Date of importation. ICOO Jan. 25 Jan. 25 Jan. 25 Jan. 25 Jan. 30 Jan. 30 Feb.l Fob.5 Feb.6 Feb.6 Feb. 13 : Feb. 20 Feb. 27 Mar.2 Mar.8 Mar.8 Mar.8 Mar.8 Mar.l7 Mar.l7 Mar. 17 Mar. 17 Mar.24 Mar.24 Mar.24 Mar.24 Mar. 20 Oct. 18 Oct. 23 Oct.2() N0V..15 Nov. 15 Nov. 24 Nov. 24 Nov. 24 Nov. 24 Nov. 30 Nov.30 1911 Mar.6 Total Number of bales. 149 14 52 29 50 59 40 57 69 15 118 57 24 593 125 37 30 142 143 168 29 130 21 125 13 74 13 146 19 24 155 5 85 36 142 261 111 6 512 13,067 Net weight. Pounds. 45,383 4,054 13,299 8,127 13,955 18,340 12, 157 10, 113 19,542 4.957 33.000 17,515 7,925 168,845 37,246 12,302 8,938 39,674 4(>,402 52, 105 6,676 36, 152 7,791 39,773 3,257 20,841 4,776 50,544 0,360 8,853 66,253 1,790 30,469 11,585 45,724 91,023 37,013 1,790 161,562 4,142,681 Yield. Per cent. 50.17 53.00 55.31 54.50 49.80 62.69 56.50 50.38 49.72 53.31 51.91 50.33 52.00 50.75 53.27 52.06 50.88 50.45 52.72 60.88 52.12 50.88 51.50 50.96 50.00 51.19 53.75 48.75 50.75 47.75 50.52 52.00 51.27 54.00 48.34 51.27 47.70 49.50 49.73 Price per pound scoured. Cents. 50.08 50.25 64.12 51.82 47.91 49.12 50.53 48.17 47.88 49.37 48.81 48.15 48.85 48.83 52.35 49.87 51.39 49.20 52.13 49.39 51.90 49.39 51.64 49.41 51.00 49.51 49.53 50.43 51.33 49.96 56.23 52.85 56.55 53.63 55.25 52.55 52.94 49.78 51.88 Duty paid per pound scoured. Cents. 21.92 20.75 19.88 20.18 22.09 20.88 19.47 21.83 22.12 20.03 21.19 21.85 21.15 21. 07 20.65 21.13 21.61 21.80 20.87 21.61 21.10 21.61 21.36 21.59 22.00 21.49 20.47 22.57 21.07 23.04 21.77 21.15 21.45 20.37 22.75 21.45 23.06 22.22 22.12 Price per pound scoured, duty paid. AUSTRALIAN CROSSBREDS. 1905. Dec. 9 Dec. 13 Dec. 2-) Dec. 28 1906. Jan. 2 Jan. 13 Mar. 30 Dec. 3 Dec. 8 Dec.l7 Doc. 22 Dec. 31 Dec. 31 Dec.31 Dec. 31 1907. Jan. 12 Jan. 12 Jan, U) Jan. 23 Feb. 8 28 7,693 7 2,078 42 11,714 70 18,750 30 10,178 23 7, 105 19 5,520 22 0,056 68 15,431 71 19, 144 146 39,724 36 10,935 117 34,756 42 13, 711 80 27,614 167 47,910 49 16,964 40 11,045 31 8,657 11 3,304 Cents. 72.00 71.00 74.00 72.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.00 70.50 73. 71. ,00 .00 73.00 71.00 73.00 7L00 73.00 7L00 73.00 7L00 73.00 71.00 70.00 73.00 73.00 73.00 78.00 74.00 78.00 74.00 78.00 74.00 76.00 72.00 74.00 Duty paid ad valorem. Per cent. 43.7 4L3 36.7 38.9 46.1 42.5 38.5 45.3 46.2 41.8 43.4 45.3 43.3 44.3 39.4 42.4 42.0 44.2 40.0 43.9 46.0 43.7 4L3 43.7 43.2 43.4 4L3 44.7 42.2 46.1 38.7 40.0 37.9 37.9 4L2 40.8 43.0 44.0 42.6 63.32 4.5. 63 17. 37 63.00 72.00 47.72 15.28 63.00 62.68 45.45 17.55 63.00 61.43 45.09 17.91 63.00 65.35 46.17 16.83 63.00 59.16 44.41 18.59 63.00 6.5.00 55.08 16.92 72.00 68.25 48.88 10.12 65.00 01.53 47.12 17.88 65.00 04.31 48.90 17.10 66.00 65.23 49.14 16.86 66.00 60.83 49.92 18.08 68.00 63.11 60.67 17.43 68.00 62.38 50.37 17.63 68.00 69.00 49.36 18.04 68.00 66.78 48.53 16.47 65.00 59.50 49. 51 18.49 68.00 58.92 49.33 18.67 68.00 62.00 50.26 17.74 68.00 m.w 60.26 17.74 68.00 38.1 32.0 38.6 39.7 36.5 4L9 30.7 32.9 37.9 34.9 34.3 36.2 34.4 35.0 37.7 33.9 37.3 37.8 35.3 36.3 390 BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOAHD OH SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 391 i Table VI. — A record of actual importatwiM and scmiringg in a representatwe American mill, cohering more than 10,000,000 pounds of Class /wool— Continued. AUSTRALIAN CROSSBREDS-Contlnued. Date of impartation. Sept. 18... aept.18... Oct. 9..... Oct.9 vlCto 12. . . , Oct. 16 Oct. 16.... Oct. 18.... Oct. 18 Oct. 23 Oct, 23 Oct. 23 Nov. 3 Not. 3 Nov. 15 Nov. 24.... Nov. 29.... 1SIW« Number of bales. Net weight. Jan. 12. Jsa. 17. Jan. 17. Jan. 17. Jan. 17. Jam. 31. Jan. 31. Jan. 21. Feb. 23. 1910. 40 49 81 9 23 21 8 103 42 53 56 22 68 75 28 13 39 57 45 93 5 24 40 157 47 30 Total. 2,315 Pmtnia. 12,703 16,428 25,906 3.254 6.198 6, t>56 2,422 29.968 11,273 16,817 16.278 6,396 17.532 20,369 8,410 3,6:^5 14,792 16,877 12.661 27, M4 1,468 8, 106 11,804 44,457 15,650 10,632 Yield. 686,536 Percent. 67.59 58.36 63.61 55.00 63.00 65.25 63.50 64.50 66.75 61.25 63.00 57.00 57.50 63.00 73.50 69.00 66.00 62.75 72.25 68.75 62.50 68.50 €6.00 &t.00 Vjif p Jpl) Price per pound scoured. Duty paid per poimd scoured. CctUs. 50.90 49.15 50.71 50.00 50.54 51.14 52.68 50.95 60.62 48.04 50.54 50.70 50.87 Oil. 5n 40. (M 50.06 49.33 42.47 42.77 44.00 38.82 41. 51 41.94 42.06 42.81 42. 12 Cents. 19. 10 18.85 17.29 20.00 17.46 16.86 17.32 17.06 19.38 17.96 17.46 19.30 19.13 17.46 14.% 15.94 16.67 17.63 15.23 16.00 18.18 18.49 16.06 15.94 17.19 15.88 Price per pound sooured, duty paid. Omti. 70.00 68.00 68.00 70.00 68.00 68.00 70.00 68.00 70.00 06.00 08. oe 70.00 70.00 68.00 55.00 66.00 66,00 60.00 58.00 60.00 57.00 60.00 58.00 58.00 60.00 58.00 SOUTH AMERICAN MERINOS. Mar. 19- Jolyl3. Aug. 17. Aug. 14. Dec. 27. 1906. Mar. 19. Mar. 19. Mar. 16. Mar. 28. Mar. 28. 1907, Oct. 8.. Oct. 8.. Oct. 15. 1909. Total. 39 114 217 25 27 200 199 100 102 1HI2 17 00 65 205 1.472 37,289 112,112 217,953 25,183 26,793 207,781 2l).5.872 101, I9;i 90,380 Ml 001 16,915 .'58,025 64,950 201, 1G2 1,455,602 50.00 50.00 51.00 61.00 48.50 49.50 48.50 47.00 53.00 48.00 47.00 45.00 46.00 46. 67 51.00 50.25 51.68 61.68 52. 32 53.53 62.32 47.08 47.08 51.09 49. 35 48.56 48.59 22. a3 22.00 22.00 21.57 21.57 22.68 22.22 22.68 23.40 20.76 22.91 Zi.lO 24.44 23.91 69.00 73.00 72.25 73.25 73.26 75.00 75. 75 75.00 70.48 67.83 74.00 72.75 73.00 72.50 SOUTH AMERICAN CROSSBREDS. 1906. Sept. 27 Sept. 27 Sept. 27 Nov.28 Nov. 28 Dec. 20 Dec. 12 Dec. 22 Dec. 20 22 19,879 62. Oil 39. ?6 17.74 57.00 50 43,416 66.00 38.08 16.92 66.00 46 19,879 66.00 36.08 16.92 53.00 39 36,347 67.50 40.71 16.20 67.00 .'i5 51,858 63.00 34.54 17. 46 52.00 11 9,888 &5.00 40.08 16.92 57.00 60 46.407 66.00 39. 60 16.67 56.27 23 20,(562 &t.00 41.81 17.19 59.00 60 47,.m'> 66.00 39. m 16.67 56.27 76 70,758 GB.00 39.82 16.18 66.00 Duty paid ad valorem. Per cent. 37.5 38.3 34.1 40.0 ^4.5 32.9 32.9 33.4 38.3 37.4 34.5 38.1 37.6 34.5 37.3 31.8 33.8 41.3 35.6 36.4 46.9 44.5 38.3 37. « 40.1 37.4 47.8 43.1 43.7 41.7 41.7 43.3 41.5 43.3 49.7 44.1 44.8 47.4 60. .1 40.2 45.3 44.4 46.7 40.0 50.5 42.2 42.1 41.1 42.1 40.6 1 fi, Table VI. — A record of actual importations and scourings in a representative American mill, covering more than 10,000,000 pounds of Class I wool — Continued. SOUTH AMERICAN CROSSBREDS-Contlnued. Date of imjwrtation. 1907. Jan. 7 Mar. 14 Dec. 28 1908. Jan. 2 Jan. 2 Jan. 13 Apr. 7 Apr. 28 Ahr.28 May 15 June 20 June 27 1909. Feb. 19 Jan. 26 Jan. 30 Feb.S Mar.l Mar.l Apr. 19 Apr. 19 May 27 May 28 Julys July 7 Oct. 1 Oct. 1...- Oct.l Oct.l Oct. 1 Oct. 1 Oct. 1 Oct.8 Oct.8 Oct.8 Oct.8 Oct.8 Oct.8 Nov. 15 Nov. 15 1910. Jan. 25 Jan.2.'i Jan. 25 Total Number of bales. Net weight. 200 35 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 537 360 56 165 21 10 36 10 19 14 8 6 36 49 49 22 14 100 100 60 195 145 4,457 Pounds. 184,675 31,886 93,715 94,322 91,244 94,048 93,885 93,557 94,313 93,837 98,230 97,889 97,000 89,542 89,917 92,024 91,491 92,002 87,860 86,255 272,668 332,476 52,305 75,026 12,972 6,789 23,716 6,876 13,081 9,207 3.836 3,216 24,940 34,607 34.928 10, .359 5,091 91,321 88,396 57,342 186,075 138, 370 3,736,690 Yield. Price per poumi scourod. Duty paid per pound scoured. Price per pound sooured, duty IMid. Percent. Cents. Cents. Cents. 66.50 39.60 16.54 56,14 58.00 48.03 18.97 67.00 67.50 29.92 16.29 46.21 66.75 29.04 16.48 45.52 64.00 32.56 17.19 49.75 66.50 29.04 16.54 45.58 66.50 24.20 16.64 40.74 66.50 23.32 16.54- 39.86 66.50 22.00 16.54 38.54 66.50 22.00 16.54 38,54 67.00 22.82 16.42 39. .30 66.00 22.88 16.67 39.55 60.00 34.67 18.33 53.00 62.50 32.56 17.60 50.16 62.50 32.66 17.60 50.16 62.50 33.88 17.60 51.48 63.00 33.88 17.46 5L34 63.00 34.32 17.46 51.78 66.50 28.60 16.79 45.39 65.00 28.60 16.92 45.62 59.25 35.44 18.56 51.00 63.50 30.80 17.32 48.12 54.55 41.84 20.16 62.00 57.00 44.28 19.50 63.78 64.00 39.82 17.18 67.00 62.00 39.26 17.74 57.00 62.00 37.26 17.74 55.00 62.00 39.26 17.74 57.00 62.00 34.26 17.74 52.00 62.00 34.26 17.74 52.00 64.00 37.82 17.18 55.00 60.00 46.67 18.33 65.00 63.00 43.54 17.46 61.00 64.00 39.82 17.18 57.00 64.00 39.82 17.18 67.00 63.50 43.68 17.32 61.00 62.00 41.26 17.74 69.00 66.00 35.20 16.67 51.87 66.00 35.20 16.67 51.87 55.50 45.19 19.81 65.00 60.00 42.67 18.33 61.00 63.00 38.04 17.46 55.60 Duty paid ad valorem. Per cent. 41.8 39.5 54.4 56.7 62.8 56.9 68.3 70.9 75.2 76.2 71.8 72.9 52.9 54.0 51.0 51.9 5L5 50.9 58.7 50.2 52.3 56.2 48.2 44.0 43.1 45.1 47.6 45.1 51.7 51.7 45.4 40.0 43.1 43.1 39.6 42.9 47.3 47.3 43.8 42.9 46.8 It is evident from the preceding tables that American manufac- turers can not import heavy shrinlang wool under the present system of levying the duty except at a relatively high cost. Furthermore, there are certain sorts of wool, 'such as the snort clippings from the neck and legs, the britch locks, etc., in the main those portions of a fleece that are commonly removed by skirting, which though less valuable than the longer and cleaner sorts, yet have their use, par- ticularly in the carded woolen industry. These as a matter of course can not be profitably imported under the operation of a specific duty upon the grease pound. «i S92 BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAED OF SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 393 HOW CAX THE OBJECTIONS TO THE PRESENT SYSTEM OF LEVYING DUTIES BE OVERCOME. Various methods are suggested to remedy the unequal working of the present law and permit the importation of the various sorts of wool on approximately equal terms. The first method is to substitute an ad valorem for our present specific duty on wool in the grease. It is claimed by those who favor an ad valorem duty that aU the variations in the character of grease wool, both as to the amount of impurities which it carries and as to the quality of its fiber, are registered in the price paid for it. Conse- quently, it is asserted that a duty assessed on the value would at once, without any elaborate macliinery, either of clasdfication or collection, correspond closely to the character of the wool. As to the operation of such a duty in the case of raw wool it is impossible to state a final conclusion in the absence of experience in the matter. It is claimed, on the one hand, that it is oifficult for even the most expert to determine the real value of wool in its natural state and that the attempt to levy an ad valorem duty would lead to continuous uncertainty and dispute, together vdih fraud and under- valuation. On the other hand, it is contended that values of wool are definitely determined by auction sales at certain points; that the m-ades are more or less standardized and that a fair valuation can therefore be made. In this connection we may digress at this point long enough to refer briefly to methods of marketing. During the progress of the London sales the wools to be sold each day are exposed for examination, the entire lots, in well-Hghted ware- houses, where thej can be examined and valued by the buyers. Cata- logues are provided which give the clip marks and. any other descriptions which may be upon the bales. Later in the day the sales begin in the salesroom on Coleman Street, and every lot is promptly sold to the highest bidder, except such as may be withdrawn, and also the "star lots." These are lots of from one to three bales, wliich are put up and sold after all the larger lots have been disposed of. After the sales printed catalogues are distributed b}^ the brokers to consigners and purchasers of wools, and a permanent record is thus obtained of every lot disposed of at the auction. In Melbourne, Geelong, Sydney, and Brisbane a similar plan is fol- lowed, except that not more than 10 bales of each lot are exposed for examination. In Liverpool the India wools are sold in a siinilar way at auction six times a year, and there are other sales of miscellaneous foreign wools at auction, all of which are catalogued as at London. In Buenos Aires the wool comes to market to commission merchants and is opened up and exposed for sale in a manner similar to the prac- tice in America, but the wools are not closely graded. Agents for American and European clients buy these wools from the commission merchants, classify them according to the needs of their various cus- tomers, and bill and sliip in accordance with the orders which they may have. The identity of the clips is not preserved, nor is there any record of the original price paid for the ungraded clips. In the Cape of Good Hope, wools have usually been bought by local dealers from the growers and the various lots assembled until the quantity was large enougli for shipment to London or elsewhere. Wools have not been classed to any extent in the Cape, as in Austra- ) lia, when shorn, but there are a few growers now who do classify their wools and put them up in superior condition, commanding tha highest prices in London, Wools in New Zealand are sold at auction at various markets on the different islands, and the greater portion of the wools are shipped in original package with the original marks. There are a great many small clips which run very irregular in quality, and in recent* years it. has been the policy of some buyers to collect a number of these irregular clips and grade them so that the qualities will run uniform in the bales. These lots are put in the original sheets from which they were taken and are classed as '^ Cased wool," enabling the manu- facturer to secure just the grade of wool he requires. These wools if used here would otherwise have to come to the hands of dealers and be regraded before they could be sold to manufacturers, who could not probably use the qualities not suitable for their wants. The so-called ''off sorts," consisting of skirtings, tags, locks, and other cheap by-products, are developed when the wools are sorted and classed preparatory to being offered for sale. This is especially the case in Australia and New Zealand. In South America, as in several other markets, the wools are disposed of by the growers in piles, including the ''off sorts," and are then classed by the purchasers and either sold privately or sent to Europe to be offered at auction or private sale. The "off sorts" represent the most inferior part of the fleece and have a correspondingly low value. They are disposed of in the same manifold ways that wool generally is dealt m, at private sales, as well as at auctions, in the colonies, in England, and on the Continent. Considerable quantities of this class of wool are scoured in the country of origin, reaching the central auctions or the European buyers in the clean state. It not infrequently happens that the scouring process enliances the value of the clean content in the case of "off sorts" in greater degree than in the case of straight fleeces. That is to say, a low-grade wool selling at around 8 cents per pound in the grease might become worth more than 20 cents clean; whereas a fleece worth 22 cents in the grease would, perhaps, merely have its value doubled by the cleaning process. While it is true that great quantities of wool pass through the various marts of public appraisal, it is well known that purchases are also made on the ranches of Australia, New Zealand, the Cape Colonies, and in South America, as well as in the wool centers and seaports of those countries. There are transfers at Antwerp, Havre, Bremen and Leipzig, and in all primary markets where wools are offered there are various prices current for identical lots offered at the same time. Even at London buyers may pay 20 cents, 22 cents, or 24 cents per pound on the same day for wools of the same class. In addition to the fluctuations in the same market are the fluctua- tions between the different markets of the world, the result of which is that on a certain steamer arriving in New York there might be found wools bought in the different markets, some coming direct from Australia, South America, etc., others having been bought at the Ant- werp or London sales and shipped thence. The difference in price paid for these wools bought at different places could be equal to the amount of the ad valorem duty. This feature is still further accen- tuated by the fact that it may take from two to three months for wools to reach America from Australasia if brought direct. S94 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. There is no means of estimating the amount of wool bought pri- vately in foreign parts. In the case of class III wools there are large transactions of which there is no public record. While it is true there- fore that there are regular quotations for wool at certain important centers, and that for wool shipped from such a center, on a given date, of an established grade, it should not be difficult to determine the approximate value, the fact remains that wool is now imported, and imder an ad valorem duty much more would be imported from points where values are not definitely established, and serious diffi- culties would inevitablj arise in the effort to determine them. In the second place, wool is not always offered for sale in a sorted condi- tion. It is impossible to determine before a lot is sorted what proportion of it is of one quaUty with a certain value, and what proportion is of other qualities with other values.' It is well within the range of probabihty that imder an ad valorem duty points of shipment could be so selected and the blending of grades might be so adjusted as effectually to conceal the market value of particular lots of wool. The economic objection to an ad valorem duty on wool arises from the fact that the amount of duty paid, since it fluctuates with the foreign value of the commodity, would not be adjusted to the needs of the Government, of the consumer, nor of the American wool- grower. A speculative change in the market which increased the price of wool would automatically lead to an increase in the amount of duty at the very time that the manufacturer is most hampered by the existing high price, when the consumer most needs relief, and the woolgrower is most prosperous. On the other hand, a fall in price brings a reduction of duty at a time when the woolgrower is at greatest disadvantage and when manufacturers can best afford to pay the tax. The tendency of sheep breeding all over the world is toward cross- breds, and the advocates of ad valorem wool duties have complained that under the present system of specific duties crossbreds can be imported more lavorably than merinos, and that when the market for crossbreds declines the advantage in favor of the crossbreds is still further increased. During the season 1906-7, which was a normal one, the specific duty on South American crossbreds, taking into account the prices then prevailing in the foreign markets, was equivalent to an ad valorem rate of about 43-45 per cent. In the following season, 1907-8, including the time of the financial panic, prices abroad declined steadily, so that in May, 1908, the specific duty on the same grade of crossbrecl wool was equivalent to an ad valorem rate of 75 per cent. By thus increasing tlie ad valorem equivalent when foreign prices are low and decreasing it when foreign prices are high the specific duty automatically protects American woolgrowers against declines in the wool markets abroad and at the same time favors the American buyer when the foreign wools increase in value. In the case of drought or other calamity in the American wool- growing industry and overproduction abroad, or vice versa, the specific duties would have a corrective tendency. Ad valorem duties would act in an entirely contrary manner--decreasing with the decline of values abroacl and increasing with the rise of foreign markets, thus tending to throw open the American market to foreign wools in times of depression, when they could least withstand such pressure, and, on the other hand, when there was a scarcity of wool at home and prices soared, it would be impossible to find reUef abroad. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD OlSf SCHEDULE TL 395 1 America occujiies a unique position among the nations with regard to her woolgrowing and wool manufacturing, haying practically no outlet for either in foreign markets. The American woolgrower is entirely dependent upon the home market. If the basic idea of the duty on wools is to give the domestic grower permanent protection, it should remain as uniformly effective as possible under all changes of foreign conditions (shortage, overproduction, etc.). Ad valorem duties would not accomplish this, bemg ineffective in times of over- production and low prices abroad and giving an unnecessarily high protection in times of scarcity and high prices in foreign countries. A SPECIFIC GREASE POUND RATE BASED ON SHRINKAGE. Another method which has been frequently suggested as a means of overcoming the discrimination agam^ certam classes of wools inlierent in a specific rate on the grease pound is that of graduating the specific duty according to the shrinkage. This ineans the apph- cation of a relatively low specific rate on high-shrinking wools and a progressive increase in the duty as the amount of shrmkage dimin- i^es, so that the rate should be practically the same per pound of clean wool contained in the grease wool. If carried to its logical conclusion, this would necessitate a different rate on each of many classes of wools — say, for example, 10 classes ranging from those shrmkhig 25 per cent to those shrinking 70 per cent or more, accord- ing to each 5 per cent variation. The greater the number of classes the more complicated the system would become. On the other hand, the fewer the number of classes — that is, the wider the spread in the per cent of shrinkage — the greater would be the temptation to under- estimate the shrinkage in order to §et the benefit of the lower rate of the class below. The resulting evil in either case would be serious. If such a system could be practically administered, it would, to be sure, have the effect of adjusting the duties to the clean content of the wool and not to the dirt and grease, and this is the object of such proposals. If, however, the classes are made numerous enough to really eft'ect the desired change, there would inevitably be so many disputes as to the estimated shrinkage that the Govermnent would have to stand ready to make actual tests on large quantities of wool. In such case the system would prove merely a complex and round- about method of arriving at a rate of dutv proportionate to the clean wool contained, which apparently could be accomplished more easily by assessing the duty directly on the scoured content of the wool. A modification of this system has been advocated in some quarters, designed to remove the discrimination against wools of high shrink- age, and at the same time avoid the administrative difficulties of a compUcated scale of graduation. This it aims to do by fixing the mimmum rate of shrinkage (with maximum duty) at a point wliich would render unnecessary the careful determination of sm-inkages on the great bulk of imports. It may be presented thus, the highest rate used, for purposes of illustration, being the rate now in force: Cents per grease pound. Wools shrinking not over 55 per cent 11 Wools shrinking over 55 per cent, but not over 60 per cent 9 J Wools shrinking over 60 per cent, but not over 65 per cent 8 J Wools shrinking over 65 per cent 7^ 396 jl BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K, It is argued in behalf of this proposition that the effect of the pro- posed division would be that by far the majority of wools imported would f aU into the class shrinking less than 55 per cent and would be entered at once under the highest duty, and no question would arise as to the correctness of the entry. The wools shrinking over 55 per cent would be mostly for use in makinff woolen goods and the percentage of those wools imported would De very considerably smaller than the percentage of those of lighter shrinkage. At the same time manufacturers desiring to import such heavier shrinking wools could do so upon practically the same basis as the lighter shrinking wools. , The shrinkage of all wools coming in below the maximum rate of duty could be ascertained with reasonable accuracj^ in this country at the port of entry without regard to foreign piices or estimates. Whatever testing might be necessary could be done in a Government sorting, scouring, and conditioning house, like those already con- ducted by private firms in tliis country, or the wool might even be sent direct to the mills in bond and the testing done under Govern- ment supervision, under somewhat the same system of control as is now followed for the internal revenue. As already stated, wools shrinking over 55 per cent would form the smaller proportion of the total importations, and for these only would tests have to be made. During the course of the year, say, 200,000,000 pounds of wool are imported, of which 160,000,000 to 170,000,000 pounds would pay the maximum duty, leaving about thirty to forty million pounds to be entered under the lower classification, from which tests would have to be made to determine the correctness of the declared shrinkage. On the basis of the figures given, the amount of wool to be tested annually would amount to between three and four million pounds. This plan, which has certain advantages, is open to the objection that always lies against an arbitrary change of rate at given fixed goints, although such dividing fines, based on values, weights, etc., ave long been employed in our tariff laws to refieve the rigidity that attaches to flat rates. In any case, the system fails to make any readjustment as to wools now actuallv imported. A change to this systim, without a change in actual rates of duty, would lelve these wools exactly where they stand to-day, merely opening a door to wools now completely excluded. A SPECIFIC DUTY ON THE SCOURED CONTENT. A tliird method of remedying the unequal working of the present law fies in substituting for the specific duty on the grease pound a specific duty on the scoured content of wool. Such a duty would rest upon the material as it actually stands avaOable for the use of the manufacturer, and would not involve the taxation of the great quan- tity of grease and impurities that raw wool contains. Furthermore, it would admit on equal terms wools of light and of heavy shrinkage which our present method fails to do. The proposal to levy a duty on the scoured pound of wool impfies that it IS possible to select samples that are fairly representative of a consignment of wool, and to ascertain the clean content of the con- signment by scouring and conditioning such samples. It also impfies BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K, 397 « the establishment of conditioning houses to be maintained by the Government at leading ports of entry. The Tariff Board has carefully investigated this matter and, with the aid of the Bureau of Standards, has reached the conclusion that it is not only possible but it is rela- tively a simple matter to test wool by sample at the time of importa- tion. It has also ascertained that the machinery required for scour- ing and conditioning wool in small lots is inexpensive and could be promptly installed, and the cost of operation would be fight. If Congress should deem it wise to adopt this method of coUecting duties upon raw wool, it would seem that the details necessary for its prompt, enicient, and economical administration may safely be left to the proper administrative officers of the Government. In this connection the following table of ecjuivalents becomes of value and interest. It shows for wools of different shrinkage the equivalent duty on the grease pound after applying certain specific duties on the scoured content : Table VII. — Specific scoured pound rates, with grease pound equivalents, on wools of various shrinkages. Shrmkagc. 75 per cent 70 per cent 65 per cent eo per cent 55 per cent 60 per cent 45 per cent 40 per cent 35 per cent 30 per cent 25 per cent 20 per cent Grease poimd equivalents. Duty per scoured pound, 33 cents. Duty per scoured pound, 30 cents. $0.0S^ .13i Am .16^ .18^ .191 .21^ .23^ .24i .261 Duty per scoured pound, 25 cents. $0.07J .09 .m .12 .131 .15 .ICi .18 .19J .21 .22J .24 $0.06} .07* .081 .10 .Hi .m .131 .15 .16} .17* .181 .20 Duty per scoured pound, 20cents< Duty per scoured I)ound, 18 cents. $0.05 .06 .07 .08 • Iftf .10 .11 .12 .13 .14 .15 .16 $0.04J .051 .06A .07i .08iV .09 .09A .10^ ■ llA .141 Duty pel scoured pound, 15 cents. $0,033 .06 .06f .07* .08i .09 12 Objection is made to a fiat rate upon the scoured pound on the ground that it would not be fair to subject wools of varying value to a uniform rate of duty. It must be conceded that there is some reason in this, but in any event it would give access to all fine, heavy fleeces on equal terms with the lighter-conditioned wools, thus meeting one great objection to the existing law. So far as the low- priced products of the skirting and sorting processes, warehouse sweepings, etc., are concerned, it may be said that their value would probably rise under the stimulus of American competition to a point where the imposition of a flat rate would not place the importer at such disadvantage as might at first appear. It appears that tliis cheap wool does not reach London in the grease in any quantity. The records of the year ending November 1, 1911, at that point show that out of 960,750- bales sold only 1,603 bales brought less than 8 cents per pound in the grease. There were during that 398 BEFOBr OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDXTLE E. I rmod record of but 13 bales sold in London for as low a price m cents per pound. Tbe figures follow: Number of baUs sold at Ltmdom tmctums/Gr IZ months at 8 cents per pound or under. 4 pence, or 8 ctmia 3f peDce, or 7| cents 3| pence, or 7 cento 3| pence, or &J cents. . . 3 pence, or 6 cents 2| pence, or 5| cents. . - 2| pence, w 5 cents 2\ pence, or 4| cents 2 pence, or 4 cents Bales. 567 355 290 95 159 26 26 11 23 If pence, or Z^ cents. 1| pence, or 3 cents. . ij pence, or 2^ c^its. 1 pence, or 2 cents I pence, or 1| cents.. I pence, or 1 cent I pence, or | cent Total. Bates. 2 4 13 4 1 1 1,603 In this connection it should also be added that a considerable quantity of merino wool appears in London for sale in a scoured condition. Such wool universally represents the heaw shrinkage wools of Australia, New Zealand, ana British South Africa, which, were they to reach London in their natural conchtion, would have paid so heavily in freight on the grease and dirt contained as to have lessened materially the return to the growers. To offset this, scour- ing stations have been estabHshed in those sections where the heavy- shrink wools are reduced to a scoured condition and freight paid only on the clean wool therein contained, thus netting the grower a more remunerative price than if shipped to market as shorn from the sheep. The presence of this large quantity of scoured wool in London eliminates a certain amount of wool which would raise to a higher figure the average shrinkage of wools as offered from tho above-named countries if they appeared in these public auctions in their original condition. The present duty on scoured wool of 33 cents per pound is proliibitive, because so greatly in excess of the duty on the grease pound. If all wool were imported on the basis of clean content, the above-mentioned scoured wools would probably become available to the manufacturer of woolens. It is true that the refuse of over 325,000,000 pounds of domestic wool is alreadv available at very low prices, as well as the entire spring and fall clips of short Texas and California. This, however, ifoes not alter the fact that the present duty excludes the scoured "off sorts" of the foreign-grown clips. The fixed charges on importations that rest upon weight alone, as against value, such as freiojht, cartage, etc., aggregate quite an appreciable amount, and this in any case operates to put more or less of a premium on lighter shrinking wools. A full consideration of the above facts would seem to indicate that some method of assessing a specific rate on the clean content would remedy most of the primary faults of Schedule K; that it would best safeguard the important revenues derived by the Government fixjm wool duties; that it would insure greater stabihty in the industries directly concerned than any other system. IXBTATUSD ESTIMATES ON YIELDS ANB SHBINKAGBS OF VABIOXTS LEADING FOREIGN CLIPS. The follo%ving complete detailed estimate of the usual yields and shrinkages of various important foreign-grown wools has been pre- EEPOBT OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 399 ' pared for the board by one of the leading authorities in the trade at the great English manufacturing center, Bradford, and for compara- tive purposes is a valuable compilation. In foreign wool-trading circles qualities are indicated by tiie results anticipated in spinning. Wools designated as sixty-fours are those which are expected to spin into yam, 64 ''hanks'' of wliich would weigh 1 pound, a ''hank" being 560 yards of yarn. These designations are used in the esti- mates below. In this connection it may be said that the sixties "Botanv top" represents probably the largest line of fine wool in the markets of the world. The combed product of our "fine medium" grade would Erobably approximate this sixties top. Our three-fourths and full- lood merinos spin up to sixty-fours, sixty-sixes, and seventies. English feece wools. Lincoln h(^ Lincoln wethers Nottingham hogs Nottingham wethers Leicester hogs Leicester Mothers Devongreasy Wensleydale hogs Wensleydalo wethers Yorkshiife hogs (average) Yorkshire wethers (average) North hogs North wethers Irish hogs, super Irish wethers, super Irish hogs, selected Irish wotherSj selected Irish niountam Irish Scotch Selected Kent tegs Sdected Kent wethers Super Stafford hogs Super Stafford wethers Half-bred hogs (Midland cmmties) — Half-bred wethers (Midland counties) Norfolk half-bred ho^ Norfolk haU-bred wetliers Best Scotch cross bogs Best Scotch cross wethers Cheviot hogs, sup* Cheviot wethers, super Scotch black-faced hogs Scotch black-faced ewes and wethers.. Southdown t^s Southdown ewes. Pick Shropshire hogs Pick Shropshire wethers Wiltshire Down togs Wiltshire Down ewes Hampsliire Down tegs Hampshire Down ewes Dorset Down tegik Dorset Down ewes Oxford Down tegs Oxford Down ewes Eastern counties Down tegs Eastern counties Down ewes Lonk ewes and wethers Welsh fleeces: Selected Best Seconds Badnors: Fine Deep Herd wick ewes and welhers Per cent lity. shrink- age. 309 20 32&-36S 20-18 36S-40S 20 363 20-18 40S-44S 1 20 36s-40s 20-18 36S-40S 35-30 36S-40S 22-20 36s 20-18 36S-40S 22-20 36s 30-18 44S-46S 20-18 40S-44S 18-17 44S-46S 18-16 40S-44S 18-16 40S-44S 18-16 40s 1*-16 3()S 25-20 32s 25 44S-46S 22-20 40S-44S 20-18 44s 20 40s 20 44S-46S 25 40S-44S 25 44S-46S 25 40S-44S 25 36s 20 32S-36S 20 44S-46S 25 40S-44S 25 32s 25 28S-32S 25 50S-56S 35-34 50s 35-34 46S-50S 25 44S-46S 25 50s 30-28 46&-48S 30-28 46S-50S 30-28 46s 30-28 50s-^6s 30-28 50s 30-28 50s 25 46s 25 488 30-28 46s-48s 30-28 40&-44S 20 46S-50S 24 44s 22 4as 20 46s 22 36s 20 32s 20 Per cent yield. 80 80-S3 m 80-82 80 80-82 65-70 78-80 80-82 78-80 80-82 80-S2 82-83 82-81 82-84 82-84 82-84 75-80 75 78-80 80-82 SO 80 75 75 75 75 80 80 75 75 75 75 65-66 65-66 75 75 7(K-72 70-72 70-72 70-72 70-72 70-72 75 75 70-72 70-72 80 76 78 80 78 SO 80 I 1 I r 400 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. English shin wools. NOETHEKX COUNTIES. FineTiof; Fiao wether Strong ho|? Strong wether White haslook Gray haslock Super lamb Fine lamb Strong lamb Strong carding Fine head Bread head Brederay Belly head Lamb britch Sheep britch MIDLAND COUNTIES. Super teg ".'. Super wether Fine teg Fine wether Strong hog Strong wether Super lamb Fine lamb Per cent shrink- age. 21 22 22 20 20 24 22 20 18 18 24 22 22 30 20 18 25 23 22 21 20 20 22 20 Per cent yield. 76 78 78 80 80 76 78 80 82 82 76 78 78 70 80 £2 75 77 78 79 80 80 78 80 I MIDLAND COUNTIES— Contd. Strong lamb... Strong carding. Lamb britch... Fine head Broad head White haslock. Bred gray Belly Sheep britch... DOWNS. Pick down teg skin Pick down wether skin. . . Super down teg skin Super down wether skin. . Fine down teg skin Fine down wether skin . . . Strong down teg skin Strong down wether skin . Strong down britch skin. . Pick down lambskin Super down lambskin Fine down lambskin Strong down lambskin..., Per cent shrink- age- 18 18 20 25 22 20 22 28 18 28 26 25 24 23 22 22 20 20 25 23 22 20 Per cent yield. VICTORIAN (West Victoria; 64sqaaUty).i Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Ordinary Grease clothing: r Superior Good Average Ordinary Grease broken: , Good Average — Ordinary 45-40 4»-48 51-50 54-53 46-45 48-47 60-49 64-53 48-47 50-49 53-52 5J-56 51-52 49-50 40-47 54-55 52-53 .50-51 46-47 52-53 50-51 47-48 Grease necks: Good '....-.... f Average Ordinary Grease pieces: Good / Average Stained, burrj', etc Grease bellies: . Good < Average Wasty, burry.etc. Grease locks: Good ) Average 47-46 50-49 53-52 50-49 53-52 57-50 57-56 61-60 J&-65 71-70 75-74 VICTORIAN (Eastern Victoria; 04s quality). Grease combing: Superior — Good Average Ordinary . . . Grease clothing: Superior — Good Average Ordinary... Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary . . . Grease necks: Good Average Ordinsiry . . . 51-52 49-50 47-48 44-45 50-51 48-49 46-47 43-44 48-49 46-47 4a-44 49-50 46-47 43-44 Grease pieces: Good ' Average Stained, burry, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, burry, etc. Grease locks: Good Average 5^-52 57-66 60-59 62-61 67-66 '■73-72 76-76 83 82 80 75 78 80 78 72 82 72 74 75 76 77 78 78 80 80 75 77 78 80 63-54 60-61 47-48 50-51 47-48 43-44 43-44 39-40 34-35 29-30 25-26 47-48 43-44 40-41 41-42 38-39 33-34 27-28 24-25 1 These are the wools specially f avor*>d by American buyers, being, perhaps, the lightest conditioned Of any of like quality grown in the world. ^ REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. » VICTORIAN (grease fine crossbred; 56s quality). Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained Per cent shrink- age. Per cent yield. 34-32 30-34 40-38 36-34 44-42 46-44 66-68 64-66 60-62 64-66 66-58 54-56 Grease bellies Good.... Average. Wasty... Per cent shrink- age. 40-38 46-44 4S-40 Per cent yield. 60-62 54-5ft 52-6i VICTORIAN (grease fine crossbred; 50s quality). Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained 3-2-30 34-32 34 34 38 42 68-70 66-68 66 66 62 68 Grease bellies Good..:. Average. Wasty... 36 40 44 64 60 VICTORIAN (grease medium crossbred; 46s-48s quality). Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained 28-26 30-28 30-32 32 34 40 72-74 70-72 70-68 68 66 60 Grease bellies Good Average. Wasty... VICTORIAN (grease coarse crossbred; 40s quality). Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained 24-22 26-24 30-28 26 30-28 34-32 76-78 74-76 70-72 74 70-72 66-68 Grease bellies: Good Average.. Wasty.... 28 32-30 36 73 68-7© 64 1 There are very few 36s. Victorian wools (Port Phillip). The few there are will be pure Lincoln wools and give the same weight (clean yield) as 40s. QUEENSLAND (Central; 648 to 70s quality).* Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average - Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease clothing: Superior Good Average Ordinary, seedy Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy. Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, seedy, etc — Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc Grease locks: Good Average 53-52 55-54 6»-57 54-53 57-56 59-58 5^58 62-61 68-67 72-70 75-74 47-48 45-46 42-43 46-47 43-44 41-42 41-42 38-39 32-33 28-30 26-26 1 Some of the largest stations in Australia are situated in this district, many carrying 120,000 to 150,000 Bheep. 32080°— H. Doc. 342. 62-2, vol 1 26 |,> si I A£\9, BEPOBT OF TAHIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K, QUEENSLAND (Darling Downs; 648 quality).* BEPOET OF TABTFF BOAED OlST SCHEDULE K. NEW SOUTH WALES (Upper Darilng or Far Western wools; 64s quality).* 403 :l Grease combing:* 8uperi(H- ( American wools) Good Average Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease clothing: Superior Good Average Ordinary, seedy Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Percent shrink- age. 50-4S 53-52 5&-57 60-48 5;j-52 67-50 60-59 fi3nS2 5fl-55 59-S% Per cent yield. fiO-52 47-48 45-46 42-43 50-52 47-48 43-44 40-41 47-48 44-45 41-42 Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, seedy, etc... Grease belll4s: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc — Grease locks: Good Average Per cent shrink- age. 54-53 58-57 61-60 55-54 58-57 61-60 62-61 69-68 74-73 77-75 Per cent yield. QUEENSLAND (Southwestern; C48 quality).' i; r Grease combing: Good (American wools) . . . Average Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease clothing: Good Average Ordinary, seedy Orease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy 56-^ 50-58 62-60 57-66 60-59 ea-m 58-57 60-59 63-62 57-56 00-^ 65-64 44-45 41-42 3»-40 4AmM 40-41 37-38 42-43 40-41 37-38 43-44 4IK41 35-36 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, seedy, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc. Grease locks: Good Average 58-67 61-60 65-«4 64-«3 67-€6 72-70 77-75 82-^ NEW SOUTH WALES (Riverina woob; 64s quality). Orease combing: Superior (American wool). Good Average Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy 60-48 53-51 66-56 60-^ 54-53 68-56 62-61 63-^2 67-56 60-52 47-49 40-|l TKif"""'Tl f 38-39 47-48 43-44 38-JI9 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, burry, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, burry, etc. Grease locks: Good Average 62-eo 66-64 60-50 63-62 e&-66 74-73 77-76 46-47 42-43 39-40 45-46 42-43 39-40 38-39 34-35 31-32 20-27 23-25 Grea<>e combing: Good Average Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease clothing: Good Average Ordinary, seedy Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy Per cent shrink- age. 57^6 60-59 62-61 59-^ 01-<30 63-62 59-58 62-00 65-04 00-59 62-«l 05-64 Per cent yield. 43-44 40-41 38-39 41-42 39-40 37-38 41-42 38-40 35-36 40-41 38-39 35-36 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, burry, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, biury, etc. Grease locks: Good Average Per cent shrink- age 61-60 63-02 67-06 65-04 67-€6 70-69 76-75 7S-77 Per cent yield. NEW SOUTH WALES (New England; 64s quality).* 42-43 39-40 35-36 36-37 33-34 28-30 23-25 18-20 Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy Grease pieces: Good , Average Stained, burry, etc 47-46 50-49 53-52 55-54 52-51 54-53 58-57 52-51 55-54 58-57 53-52 55-54 58-57 53-54 60-51 47-48 45-46 48-49 46-47 42-43 48-49 45-46 42-43 47-48 45-46 42-43 Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, burry, etc Grease locks: Good Average Orease clothing: SuperiOT Good Average Ordinary, seedy.. 58-57 62-61 67-66 70-^ 74-73 52-51 55-54 59-58 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN— (Southeastern wool; 04s quality).' 41-42 38-40 34-36 40-41 37-38 32-34 26-27 23-24 Qrease combing: Supeilor (American wools) Good Average Ordinary, seedj', and burry Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty 47-46 50-49 53-52 5.5-54 50-49 53-52 55-54 53-54 60-51 47-48 45-46 50-51 47-48 45-46 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, burry, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, burry, etc. Grease locks: Good Average 53-52 55-54 59-58 58-57 61-60 65-64 70-68 74-73 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN (Northern district; 60s quality). » Very good district— the garden of Queensland— and now largely devoted to agriculture. » These wools are usually somewhat red add earthy in appearance, are never boujjht by America, but are naed extensively for top-making purposes by continental and Yorkihlxe buyers. Grease combing: Superior Good Average Ordinary, seedy, and burry Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average Ordinary, very seedy 52-50 54-53 67-56 CO-59 53-52 57-55 60-59 53-52 56-55 60-59 48-50 46-47 43-44 40-41 47-48 43-45 40-41 47-48 44-45 40-41 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, burry, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, burry, etc- Grease locks: Good Average 54-53 58-56 62-60 62-60 04-03 67-06 72 74 59-40 37-38 33-34 35-36 33-34 30-31 24-25 22—23 42-43 38-39 33-34 30-32 26-27 51-52 48-49 45-46 41-42 47-48 45-46 41-42 42-43 39-40 35-36 30-32 26-27 46-47 42-44 38-40 38-40 36-37 33-34 as [ * These are heavy in condition, red and very earthy, but fine in quality; oftentimes 70s or XXX. ' Well-grown, sound, and soft-handling wools. Among the best, if not the best, grown in New South Wales. *■ * These wools are similar in character to West Victoria, except that they are a little more yolky. ■aiii 404 KEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUL^l K. SOUTH AUSTRALIAN (Middle Nortli; COs quality). Per wnt shrink- age. * Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Goo-47 4a^ 50-52 47-49 48-50 45-46 41-43 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, burry, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty,bmTy,etc. Grease locks: Good Average Per cent shrink- age. 53-52 60-55 62-60 60-^ 64-62 69-67 75-74 80-78 WEST AUSTRALIAN (Northern district; 60s-64s quality), i Grease combing: Good :. Average Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: (iood Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy 57-56 60-69 59-58 61-60 64-63 60-59 62-«l 65-«4 43-44 40-41 41-42 39-40 36-37 40-41 38-39 35-36 Grease pieces: Good , Average Stained, seedy, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc.. Grease locks: Good Average 60-^ 63-62 67-66 65-64 67-66 70-m 76-75 78-77 WEST AUSTRALIAN (Southwestern district; 60s-64s quality).' Grease combing: Super Good Average Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy 52-51 54-53 53-52 66-55 59-58 54-53 57-56 60^9 Grease pieces: Good Average stained, seedy, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc. Grease locks: Good Average WEST AUSTRALIAN (Central District grown wools; 60s quality). Grease combing: Super Good Average Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks; Good Average, seedy Ordinary, very seedy 54-52 66-55 59-58 55-54 68-57 64-62 58-57 60-39 64-63 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, seedy, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc.. Grease locks: Good Average Per cent yield. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. NEW ZEALAND (Canterbury or Marlborough district; 64s quality).i 405 47-48 44-45 38-40 40-42 36-38 31-33 25-26 20-22 .1 f 40^1 37-38 33-34 35-36 33-34 ao-31 24-25 22-23 Grease combing: Super Good Average Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average Ordinary Per cent shrink- age. 51-50 54-53 55-54 53-52 57-56 59-58 54-53 57-56 00-59 Per cent yield. 49-50 46-47 45-46 47-48 43-44 41-42 46-47 43-44 40-41 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, seedy, etc Grease beUies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc., Grease locks: Good Average •. . Per cent shrink- age. 57-56 60-59 03-62 60-59 6^-62 67-66 73-72 76-75 Per cent yield. 43-44 40-41 37-38 40-41 37-38 33-34 27-28 24-25 NEW ZEALAND (Otago and Invergargill district; G4s quality).* 42-43 38-40 36-37 40-41 37-38 32-34 2fr-27 23-24 I Grease combing: Super Good Average Grease broken: Good Average Ordinary, faulty Grease necks: Good Average Ordinary 53-51 55-54 57-56 54-53 58-57 60-59 56-55 58-57 01-60 47-49 45-46 43-44 4&-47 42-43 40-41 44-45 42-43 39-40 Grease pieces: Good Average Stained, seedy, etc Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty, seedy, etc., Grease locks: Good Average 58-57 60-59 64-63 61-00 65-64 68-67 74-73 77-76 42-43 40-41 36-37 3^-40 35-36 32-33 26-27 23-24 NEW ZEALAND (grease fine crossbred; 5(5s quality). Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained 30-34 40-38 44-42 40-38 46-44 50-48 64-66 (KM)2 50-58 60-62 54-50 50-52 Grease bellies Good Average.. Wasty.... 42-40 48-46 44-42 58-60 52-54 56-58 NEW ZEALAND (grease fine crossbred; 50s quality). 41-42 36-37 30-32 39-40 34-36 28-30 23-25 18-20 Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained 32-30 36-34 40-38 38-36 42-40 46-44 68-70 64-66 60-02 62-64 58-00 54-56 Grease bellies Good Average., Wasty... 40-38 44-42 40-44 60-62 50-58 64-56 NEW ZEALAND (grease medium crossbred; 4Cs-4Ss quality). > These wools are red and earthy. • These wools are grown on good grass country and resemble very much south Australian wools grown la the lower north district. They are great favorites with Bradford top makers. Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average Grease pieces: Good Stamed 26-24 30-28 32-30 32-30 38-36 74-76 70-72 68-70 68-70 62-64 Grease bellies Good .... Average. Wasty... 34-32 36-34 40-38 66-68 64-66 60-62 „^5 «T ^^ ^I^ handling wools, contain no burr, oftentimes a little heavy in yolk, but always come a good color, work well, and are highly valued. , uut aiwayi, come a -^J I ^^ \^^^ ^^.^ wools, well grown, but usually rather "sappy" or heavy in yolk. Thev come a good color, make good cloth, and are very soft handling wools. wi uc»vjr m youu ineycomea •I 1 J i i, 406 KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. NBW ZEALAND (greaa© coarse crossbred ; 40s qtmllty). Grease combing: Superior (American wools), Good Average Grease pieces: Good Average Stained Percent shrink- age. 20-18 28-20 24-23 24-22 30—28 Per cent yield. (Skj—xyjm 78-80 76-78 76-78 70-72 64-66 Greaae bellieti: Good Average Wasty Grease crutcbings: Good Average Grease locks, good average Percent shrink- age 26 34-32 38-36 27-25 32-30 44—49 Per cent yield. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OJST SCHEDULE K. BUENOS AIBES (grease fine fi~68 62-64 73-75 68-70 56-58 \ J' NEW ZEALAND (grease ooarae crossbred; 36s quality). Grease combing: Superior (American wools) Good Average ,. Grease pieces: Good Average Stained 20-18 22-20 mnCmm 24-22 30-28 36-34 78-80 79-78 76-78 70-72 64-66 Grease bellies: Good Average Wasty Grease locks, good average 28-26 34-32 40-38 44-42 72-74 66-68 60-62 56-58 MONTEVIDEO (grease merinos; Q0s-64squaUty). Grouse combing: Superior Good Ordinary Grease bellies, good average Grease combing: Good Average Heavy , wasty Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained Per cent shrink- age. 40-38 42-40 42-41 47-46 55-50 Per cent yield. 60-62 58-60 51-52 58-59 53-54 45-46 Per cent shrink- age. Grease bellies: Good I SO-W Average 57-66 Heavy, wasty ; 62-60 Grease locks, average ! G2-60 Per cent yield. 5(V-51 43-44 38-40 38-40 BUENO^ AIRE8 (grease medium oxissbred; 44s-46s quality). ,1 Grease cx>mbing: Good Average Heavy, wasty. - Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained 35-34 40-39 4J&-45 40-39 44-43 50-49 65-66 60-61 54-55 60-61 56-57 50-51 Grease bellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty . . . Grease locks, average 46-45 49-48 65-54 59-48 54-55 61-52 45-46 41-42 BUENOS AIBES (grease ooMse CTossbred; 40s quality). 52 50 47 32 k ^ JlCKTE VIDEO (grease fine croesbreds; 56e-58»). Oreose crossbred Superior Average Ordinary.... Grease combing: Good Average Heavy, wasty.. Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained 28-27 33-^ 39-38 36-35 40-39 46-45 72-73 67-68 61-62 64-65 60-61 54-55 Grease bellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty... Grease locks, average 42-40 46-44 50-49 55-54 58-60 54-56 50-^1 45-46 an BUENOS AIKES (grease coarse crossbred; 36s quality). MONTEVIDEO (grewe ane crossbred; 509). Greaae crossbred: Superior Average Ordinary 66-67 60-61 54-55 Grease combing: Good Average Heavy, wasty . . Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained 28-26 32-31 38-37 35-34 39-38 45-44 72-74 68-69 62-63 65-66 61-«2 55-56 Grease bellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty... Grease locks, average 41--44 52-50 40-45 ^If ''to 59-58 Yield, per cent. 58-60 54-56 48-50 54-55 51-52 41-42 Grease bellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty Shrink- age, per cent. 52-50 66-56 60-5» Yield, per cent. 48-50 44-45 40-41 PUNTA ARENAS (grease fine crossbred; 56s quality). Oro«se combing: Good Average Heavy, wasty . . Grease pieces: Good Average Earthly, stained 3*-36 44-42 50-48 42-40 48-46 62-50 62-64 56-58 50-62 68-^ 52-54 48-50 Grease bellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty 44^42 48 54-52 56-58 52 4G-48 PUNTA ARENAS (grease fine crossbred; 50s quality). Grease combing: Good Average Heavy, wmsty . . Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained 34-32 40 46-44 38-36 46-44 50-48 66-68 60 64-56 62-64 54-56 50-52 Grease l)ellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty . . . Grease locks, average 40-38 48-46 50 54-52 C0-G2 52-54 50 4(>-48 ■III II ill 408 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. PUNTA ARENAS (grease medium crossbred; 46s quality). Grease combing: Good Average Heavy, wasty.. Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained. I'er cent shrink- age. 32 4(>-44 36 42 48-46 Per cent yield. 68 60 54-56 64 58 52-54 Grease bellies: Good Average , Heavy, wastv Grease locks, average. Per cent shrink- age. 40^38 44 50 Percent yield. Ga-€.2 56 50-52 50 PUNTA ARENAS (grease coarse crossbred; 40s quality). Grease combing: Good Average Heavy, wasty . . Grease pieces: Good Average Earthy, stained. 25 28 40-36 m 32 75 72 60-64 70 m 54-56 Grease bellies: Good Average Heavy, wasty Grease locks, average. 34-32 36-34 50-48 50 6 O a m O o rO XI CO X ^ CJI 3 3 > DD 0)0 o m Q."n CD O do"! cr>3 z: N X M O- ol *e ^^ <^1 *\ :>'■ S?' a^ 3 3 > ^ o 3 3 o o 3 3 en O K O' c» b is3 ro bo In 1.0 mm 1.5 mm 2.0 mm ABCD£FGHUKLMNOPQRSTUVWXyZ abcdetghiiklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 2 .5 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 c.« \i^o ^kJ> ,1? & fo ?d> f^ 'Sr '^> ^. "^' \&> txT t.<^ V ^O f^ f^ ^ii> m O O ■o m -o > C c*> I TJ ^ 0> I? 10 ^ (jn< cnx OOM «£> O '^^. MAP OF THE ^V^ORLD SHOT\ri>^G ^ t » f I a^;| isr. I I I I % I % i^ f I t « J rwf NOKfflS PETERS CO., WASHINGTON. D. C 1 . Scotch Black-faced. 2. Herd wick. 8. Haslock. 4. Irish Black-faced. 5 Oporto. 6. CJastel Branco, 7. Spanish Pyrenean. 8. Castilian. 9. Balearic. 10. French Pyrenean. 11. Corsican. 12. German Heide. IS. German Skin. 14. Zackel Fleece. 15. Zackel Skin. 16. Austrian Skin and Herzego- vinian. 17. Bosnian. 18. Italian Coarse Wool. W- Sardinian. 20. Iceland. 21. Albaninn or Salonica. 22. Servian. Montenegrin, Bul^rian. 23. Eoumanian. 24. Dalmatian. 25. Constantinople Kasabachia. 26. Donskoi (Rostoff). 27. Sa Volga. 28. Donskoi (Moscow). 29. Crimean. 30. Bessarabian. 31 Georgian Toucha and Nonka. Tarakama. Mountain Tartary, Shousha. 32. Camels Hair. 38. Bokhara. 34. Turkestan. Merv. Transcaspian. 35. Calmuc 36. Afghan. 37. Khorassan. 38. Kashgar. 39. Mongolian. 40. Manchurian. 41 Volo (i 42. Angoi Caramj Snmscii Yosgat] SmymJ Yerli. Boiildci Konioli 43. Cypnij 44. Alepp Off a. Gt ORIGIlSr OF CL^SS III ^W^OOLS. /^ % ^ I I / Mosctf^ ^ % » ^v, fep'. ■ v^ ,-^/ I//. .^si^-^ (SiO^^ ^"^ it»^ ^ ^^' % ^* f IT J r!^^ f''^ C*w.«» g*^' #- • » ^* |C< / lAOKAS fJ**' .^^L^ & ^^ryv ^■w. v. '.^ t J 1 \ I \ O 41. Volor (Greece). Damascua 5S. Pacputan. Ohina: Hsihtsui. 42. Angora, Jaffa. Jesselmere. Hada. Caramanian. 45. Bftgrciad. 54,. Madras. Chentze. Samsoun. 46. Awassi or Mossoul. 55. Thibet. Hsiko. Yosgat. Kerkouk. 56. China: Sining. Ngotze. Smyrna. Karadi or Caracasch. 57. Szechuen. m. Egyptian. Yerli. 47. Biissorah. 56. Woosie. 61. Sudan. Boiildour. 48. Bnshire. 5a. Kinchow. 62. Valparaiso. Konieh. 49. Joria. Koolun. So. Cordova. 43. Cyprus. 50. Vicanere. Liangchow. 64. Mexicanl 44. Aleppo. Orfa. 51. Kandahar. 52. Khelat. Yimgchang. Paotze. 65. United States Navajo Nout« Dae. io. 342 ; OSd Gang., 2df Soss. t I M i 7 i ? f c I CIASS III WOOIS. The board presents herewith a carefully prepared special report as to the various "native" wools of foreign origin covered by Class III of the existing law. A study of production costs in the case of these wools was not undertaken, because the quantity of wool of this description grown in the United States is now neghgible. For a similar reason it has not seemed essential to give any special attention to their relative shrinkages. They differ so radically in character, come from such a wide range of remote regions, and are imported in such varied conditions that no satisfactory statement can be made as to what they really shrink from their original state. Some are imported in the grease, some washed, some half washed, and some scoured; so that the mill records as to clean content do not seem to be of special value from the tariff standpoint. To say that China "willowed" is reported as shrinking from 20 to 45 per cent; China combing unwashed, 30 to 45 per cent; Donskoi unwashed, 40 to 50 per cent, and Donskoi washed from 15 to 20 per cent; East India unwashed, 35 to 45 per cent, and the same washed, 15 to 20 per cent; Scotch unwashed, 25 to 40 per cent; Cordova unwashed, 45 to 55 per cent; Pyrenees unwashed, 50 to 55 per cent, etc., may be of some interest, but these and other figures that might be given seem after all of no special significance in this connection. These wools are chiefly used in the manufacture of carpets and rugs; but an inquiry by the board develops the fact that while the great bulk of the consumption is devoted to such use, certain grades are in demand for other purposes, such as the manufacture of felt boots, horse blankets, coarse upholstery goods, robes, paper-maker'a felt aprons, and wadding for gun cartridges. The better grades also find tneir way into various blends in the manufacture of coarse cloths,' such as the cheaper grades of cloakings, overcoatings, coarse tweeds and cheviots, and occasionally into worsted spinning mills. The finer China sorts. East Indias (such as Jorias, Vicaneers, and Kan-^ dahars) , are probably in more constant use in woolen mills than any other Class III grades. Khorassan is largely used by the felt makers. At times when domestic quarter bloods are deemed dear, some of the best combing wools, such as Aleppo or Cordova, are used to some extent by the worsted trade. The truth seems to be that the demand for the so-called carpet wools for better than carpet-making purposes depends largely upon the price of clothing wools. When these are high, it is natural for manufacturers to look for a cheaper substitute. When low, manu- facturers pay less attention to such wools, unless needed to produce some particular effect. The better kinds of East Indias, however, are said to be imported almost exclusively for the woolen mills, and are commonly too high priced for carpet manufacturers. Cordovas and Chileans when combed yield a noil which may be used in woolen manufacturing. 413 *T .1.. 'T' REPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 415 A small amount of XaTajo (New Mexico) and other Southwestern United States wool is made into cari^et yams. "Skirts'' and britch wool from domestic fleeces and low braids also come into competition to a certain degree with Class III material when home values are low. The point is made bv our growers that for obvious reasons, if pro- tection is to be accorded their business, there should be something more than a mere revenue duty levied against these foreign wools. While it is true that they displace a certain small percentage of domestic wool, the fact remains that they are virtually noncompetitive. More- over, they are grown upon types of siieep which from an economic point of view have no proper place in American agriculture. Complaint is made against the present method of levying the duty on Class III wools on the ground tnat there is a persistent endeavor to undervalue imports of wools at the 12-cent valuation point where the duty now changes from 4 to -7 cents per pound. Such a practice is inseparable from all such arbitrarv divisions, as has already been pointed out. To remedy this an ad valorem has been proposed. Useful and indeed necessary as that method appears to be in certain clearly defined instances, it would be almost impossible of satisfactory enforcement by the Government in the case of these wools. They are bought in distant lands at all sorts of prices and under such varied conditions of sale that values would be in many cases most difficult of satisfactory determination. This and other objections to an ad valorem rate that apply in the case of the standard clothing and combing wools have therefore even greater force here. On the other hand, the objection hereinbefore conceded to lie against the flat specific on the scoured content, in the case of the wools of Classes I and n, becomes in the case of this heterogeneous mixture of grades, qualities, and values a much more serious one. It consequently appears that this problem might be settled by a single specific rate, regardless of either value or condition, as meeting best the problems of administration and revenue, and at least reheving the carpet trade of much of the uncertainty inherent in the present system. Better Grades in Greatest Demand. In considering wools of Class III with special reference to the carpet industry, it should be borne in mind that there has been a continued evolution in this industrv in America, just as there has been in many other important industries, i. e., a steady progress toward the manu- facture of the highest quality of goods. Thmy years ago the prin- cipal part of this business was the manufacture of mgrain carpets; the production of Wiltons, Brussels, and other high-grade goods being of minor importance. Then the manufacturers were riot so eager for the highest grade of carpet wools as they are now. This is especially true of the ingrain miUs, which used principally the cheaper grades. The improvement in the production of carpets has not altogether meant the abandoning of the use of lower-priced wool; on the con- trary, there is manufactured to-day a large variety of very sightly and verv good styles of carpets made from these lower quality wools. But, on the other hand, tVere has been a steadily increased production of the medium and better qualities of goods and a steady decrease in some of the cheaper fabrics, especiafij^ ingrains. !) So that to-day the most keenly sought for wools are usually those of the best grades. There is no wool of Class III which is too fine in Quality or too good in character for the manufacture of the choice Axminster, Wilton, and other high-grade carpets and rugs, and the result is shown in the fine quahty of the fabrics that are produced. In this connection attention should be drawn to the fact that in many countries the production of Class III wool is declining. In Germany, France, and Austria it is almost extinct, or becoming gradually so. In certain parts of Russia, such as the Crimea and Donskoi regions and even in Georgia, there is less and less coming out every year. Turkey in Europe has less than formerly. Italy and Greece are no longer to be considered. In South America not one- half of the quantity of 20 years ago is to be found. Even in those countries where there is an apparently increased supply, this is more apparent than real and is only because of the improved facihties for transportation by which merchants can reach places of production which formerly were either unknown or too difficult to do business with. This refers particularly to Central Asia, Mongoha, the farthest parts of China, Afghanistan, and other Asiatic centers. In these countries the maximum supply has now been reached and no further increase can be looked for. On the other hand, in all these places, with the ''march of civiliza- tion,'' factories aresoringing up and are taking more and more each year of the local wools, leaving less for foreign use. Classification. It has been customary to refer to wools of Class III as "carpet wools.'' Attention is drawn to paragraph 363 of Schedule K of the present tariff, wliich defines Class III; 363. Class III, that is to say, Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso native Smyrna, Russian camel's hair, and all such wools of like character as hava been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece Syria and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for. * This does not refer to wools of Class III as carpet wools. In the corresponding paragraph of the tariff act of 1897, which is No. 351 of Schedule K of that act, the wording is identical with the above. We may also refer to the corresponding paragraph of the tariff act of 1890, commonly called the McKmley tariff, which is as follows: 878. Oasfl III, that is to say, Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, Russian camel's hair, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, iiigypt, byna, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for. Other two referred to above. In the tariff act of March 3, 1883, paragraph 355 read as follows: 355. Class ITI—Carpet wools and other similar wools.— Such, as Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere. 416 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. It will be noted that in this act the heading of each of the para- graphs where the various classifications are ^ven defines also the character of the wool and tlie use to which it should be put. In the particular paragraph referring to Class III it says: ''Class III— Carpet wools and other similar wools.'' This is the last act in which the general description of the wools included in the paragraph was given m the heading thereof. There was reason for abandoning this description when the Mc- Kinlev tariff was made, and this reason was that the headings in the paragraphs of the previous tariff had become misleading and out of date, although at the time when they were made the headings were not only correct, but perhaps even essential. A similar heading will be found in the law previous to that of 1883, which was apparently the act of 1874. At tlie time the earlier law was passed, wools of Class I were essentially ''clothing wools"; that is to say, wools intended to make cloth by the woolen process. Wools of Class II were essentially "combing wools," bemg the most suitable for the manufacture of the worsted yarns as known in those days, whilst wools of Class III were then used almost entirely for carpet purposes. During the years from 1874 until 1890 the process of manufacture of wools changed, and particularly during this period the process of /'combing" was improved by the introduction of what is known as the French system. By this system a worsted yarn could be made from wools wnich up to that time had been considered much too short in staple to be combed ; so that many of the wools in Class I became much more important as combing wools than as clothing wools. The wools of Class III also, during this time, were found useful for many other purposes. Many new industries were started — as, for example, the manufacture of felt boots used by the lumbermen and farmers of the Northwest during the cold and snowy winter months. These could not be very well manufactured out of any other than wools which were classified under Class III. • .«. The necessary conclusion is that when the tariff act of 1890 was framed, Congress then decided in classifying, to avoid any semblance of use, and confine itself entirely to classification according to race or blood. , , . ^1 For convenience, copies of the three paragraphs refemng to Classes I, II, and III in each of the acts herein cited are attached, and in order to make the point clear it should be borne in mind that — Wools of Class I, regardless of use, are of merino blood, immediate or remote. Wools of Class II are all English blood. Wools of Class III are native or similar wools; that is to say, wools that neither show the characteristics of Class I nor those of Class II, and which, on the contrary, resemble such native wools as are men- tioned in the paragraph referring to Class III. ^ , , , The use to which the wools covered by any of these classes may be put does not in any way govern the classification. When Congress abandoned the terms "clothing wool," "combmg wool," "carpet wool, " it did so advisedly, being weU aware of the fact that some wools from each class could be and were being used for purposes other than the names given to the class mdicated. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Extracts from tariff laws. 417 1 Act of Mar. 3, 1883. Act of Oct. 1, 1890. Acts of July 24, 1897, and Aug. 5, 1909. Class L— Clothing wools. Class I. Class I. That is to say. That is to say, That is to say. merino, merino, merino. mestizo, mestizo, mestizo. Metz, or Metz, or ' Metz, or metis wools, metis wools. metis wools. or other wools or other wools or other wools of merino blood, of merino blood, of merino blood. immediate or immediate or immediate or remote, remote. remote Down clothing wools, Down clothing wooISf Down clothing wools. and wools of and wools of and wools of like character like character like character with any of with any of with any of the preceding, the preceding the preceding iucludiug including including Bagdad wool, China lamb's wool, Castel Branco, Adrianople, or butchers wool and such as have been such as have been such as have been heretofore heretofore heretofore usually imported usually imx)orted usually imported into the United States into the United States into the United States from Buenos Aires, from Buenos Aires, from Buenos Aires, New Zealand, New Zealand, New Zealand, Australia, Australia, Australia, Cape of Good Uope, Cape of Good Hope- Cape of Good Hope, Bussia, Russia, Russia, Great Britain Great Britain, Great Britain, Canada, Canada, Canada, Egypt, Morocco, and elsewhere, and elsewhere, and elsewhere. and also Including and also including and all wools all wools all wools not hereinafter not hereinafter not hereinafter described or designated In Classes II and III. described or designated described or designated in Classes II and III. in Classes II and III. Class II: Combing wools. Class II: Class II; That is to say, That is to say, That is to say, Leicester, Leicester, Ijeicester, Cotswold, Cotswold, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, Lincolnshire^ Down combing wools. Lincolnshire, Down combing wools, Down combing wooli^ Canada long wools, Canada long wools, Canada long wools. or other like or other like or other like combing wools combing wools, combing wools of EngUsh blood, of English blood, of English blood. and usually known and usually known and usually known by the terms by the terms by the terms therein used herein used herein used, and also and also and also all hair of hair of the camel. hair of the camel. the alpaca goat, angora goat, goat, alpaca, and other alpaca, and other or other like animals. like animals. like animals. Class III: Carpet wools and other similar wools. Class III: Class 111: such as That is to say, That is to say, Donskoi, Donskoi, Donskoi, Native Native Native South American, South American, South American, Cordova, Cordova, Cordova, Valparaiso, Valparaiso, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, native Smyrna, native Smyrna, Russian camels hair, Russian camels hair. and including and including and all such wools all such wools all such wools of like character of like character of like character as have been as have been as have been heretofore, heretofore, heretofore. usually imiwrted usually imported usually imjwrted into tlie into the into the United States United States United States 32080"* ~H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 27 tt ^Xo BBPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OH SCHEDULE K. Fxiracis from ian'J' faw#— Continued. Act of Mm, S, 1S8J. Class III: Curvet wools and oVter simiktr wools— Cmktianed. from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elwwlwe. Act of Oct. 1, lf90. Class III— Continued. from Turkey, Greece', Egfpt, Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improveu wools hereinafter provided for. Acts of July 24, 1S97, and Aug. 5, 1909. Clas.! Ill— Continued. from Turkey, Greece, Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for. Description of Leading Varieties of Class III Wools. It is presumed that a description of the different kinds of wools which constitute the range imported under Class III will be of interest when considered from the practical standpoint of the merchant deal- ing in or the manufacturer who uses the same. There was a report made to the Hon, George S. Boutwell, Secretary of the Treasury, about the year 1873, or shortly prior thereto, which discussed the question of classification by race or blood very thor- oughly and gave a very complete description of the different races of sheep which were to he found in different parts of the world. 'Hiis report was prepared by the late Mr. George William Bond, of Boston, who was probably one of the ablest wool experts that this country has known. This report contained a complete description of all of the 1 varieties of sheep, the wools from wliich were considered as belonging racially to Class III. Unfortunately, Mr. Bond does not in tliis report directly connect these 10 varieties with the various samples that he prepared, and therefore it is difficult to exactly identify the wools which are pro- duced from them. It is sufficient, however, to note that all of these 10 varieties are sheep of the third class, and that the wools from them, where there is no crossing with sheep of a different blood, must be considered as belonging to this class. One can, however, clearly see from a study of Mr. Bond's descrip- tion the reasons why Class III wool from the different countries has such a wide variation in quality, length of staple, and other charac- teristics, and why, although these variations are in some cases very greatly marked, they are none the less only properly classified in the third class. Europe. Attention is drawn to the fact that in western Europe, excluding the British Islands, comparatively little wool of Class III is grown. Whatever carpet wools are found in tMs part of Europe are principally from mountain or hill sheep and of a different race to those found in Kussia, Turkey, and all Asia. Sheep of the mountain variety of Class III will probably continue indefinitely to inhabit the hilly regions of Europe, for the simple reason that those of a higher breed are de facto of a less hardy race and can not live in the mountains. 1 REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. WOOL FROM THE BRITISH ISLES. 419 The principal wool of Class III growTi in the British Isles is the Scotch Dlack-f aced or Highland wool, wliich is raised in large quan- tities in the highlands of Scotland and the hilly districts of the north of England and Ireland. It is, generally speaking, very long stapled, strong wool, varying somewhat m quahty but not generally of a nigh trade for even a Class HI wool. It is usually of long combing staple, ut in sorting only produces 50 to 60 per cent of white wool, the remainder being of a light gray color or white with a gray hair run- ning through it. In pomt of grade, not more than one-half is suitable for carpet worsted yarn finer than sixteens, the remainder being only suitable to spin up to fourteens. The noil or undergrowth con- tains considerable kemp or dead hair. This wool is not mucn used for an}^ other purpose than the manu- facture of woi-sted carpet yarn. The coarser quality wliich spins to fourteens is only suitable for an ingrain carpet or tapestry carpet of a low grade. That portion of the fleece which will spin up to six- teens is suitable for Brussels or Axminster or Wilton class or carpet. From the fact that ingrain carpets are no longer in great demand, this wool, wliich contains so much of what will produce only an ingrain quality of carpet yarn, is no longer as much sought for as in former years. It is tempting now to the American carpet manufacturer only when it can be obtained at a comparatively low price. For the last year or more it has been held above the low-duty limit and for this very reason has been recently somewhat neglected. Herd wick wool which comes from southern Scotland and the northwestern counties of England is similar to the black-faced in many respects, being, however, less desirable on account of poorer color, general cliaracter, and coarser fibre. It has found very Uttle use in this country the last year or two. There are somelots of black-faced which are found in the northern part of Ireland and also in the northern counties of England. Haslock wool is the wool taken from the skins of the black-faced and Herdwick sheep. It usually runs shorter in staple, and to a large extent is suitable onl} for filling wool purposes. The longer varieties, however, which come from the sheep killed in the winter months, can be used for combing or worsted purposes. Neither the filling nor the combing Haslock are used for anything but carpets. Portugal. The only wool of any importance produced in Portugal which comes now under Class III is Oporto wool. This is a sound, strong, lustrous wool, some of it of good staple, free from kemp and coarse hair. It is uniform in grade, not fine, somewhat creamy in color, none of it being actually white. The combing variety is the only sort in demand for America. It is used for Axminsters or similar carpets. This wool is usually shipped washed. There comes from Portugal, however, Castel Branco wool. This is one of the few wools which by race or blood are strictly of Class III but which were arbitrarily put in Class I. It is a "carpet wooP' of good quality, sound, strong fiber, and very ''springy,'' suitable for ^igli-grade carpets. 420 KEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Spain. \ KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 421 In former times Spain, celebrated for many things, was also noted for its fine sheep. As it started colonies iii different countries, it sent its sheep there and thus established woolgrowing in those places. Cordova wool, found in South America, comes from the descendants of these sheep and it is one of the finest wools of Class III. Spain no longer holds its position in this regard. As a woolgrowing country it is of minor importance, but still there is to be found in it a certain amount of carpet wool, of which a considerable quantity is brought to this country. Most of this is called Pyrenean wool and comes from the Pyrcnean Mountains. This is strong, usually long-stapled, strictly carpet wool, averaging a little better than the French variety of the same kind, but more irregular in g^rade, running, as it does, from a rather fine quality wool to a wool with a long coarse, hairy fiber. The other wools of this class raised in Spain are found in the mountainous districts of Castile and are essentially the same as Pyrenean wool. Except for the coarsest, roughest* fleeces, Pyrenean is a desirable carpet wool and is used in ^TOtons, Axminsters, Brussels, and all hi^n-grade carpets. In other parts of Spain is found also a limited quantity of Class III wools, but they are not of sufficient importance to require any desciiption. Most of the wool shipped from Spain comes in the original unwashed condition. Occasionally some is washed in the local streams in a rather crude manner aiid shipped in that condition. There is, however, some wool of Class III very similar to Pyrenean, but more uniform in grade, found in the Balearic Islands. Occa- sionally a lot of this kind will bo bought for the United States. Its general characteristics and uses are the same as the Pyrenean. Most of these wools are purchased in France or through French houses, France. Two varieties of wool of Class III are to be found in France. One is the Pyrenean wool, which, as its name indicates, comes from the northern slopes of the Pyrenees Mountains, and the other is Corsican wool, which comes from the island of Corsica. Pyrenean wool is also found on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees. The French kind ia coarser and usually longer in staple, but more uni- form than the Spanish. It is a very useful wool for the manufacture of carpets, replacing or being used instead of some of the wool found in Asiatic Turkey. The coarser varieties are also substituted for Scotch wools. It is all required for carpet worsted yarns in Wiltons, Brussels, and Axministers. Much of it is used by the French to make mattresses. The wool is taken to Marseille and there sorted and washed by machinprv "cotS wool i. principally colored wool-i. c. gray, brown, and black, of long combing staple. It is not often bought for America on account of its color. Skin wools are also produced in France from skins of Oass III, bought in various oriental countries. The French tanners, however, also use skins from the north of Africa and, although these are of low grade, they are strictly of Class I. They often mix these with the skin wools from the oriental sheep, which results in the classification of the entire lot as Class I. Germany. The only wool of Class III raised in Germany to any extent is the Tieide or heath wool. In some respects this resembles a Scotch black- faced, but is neither so long in staple nor is it so strong in fiber. It is of a somewhat higher grade or quality, but has considerably more imdergrowth or noiL There are two clips; the spring clip being the longer staple and more suitable for use in carpets. Local demand or diminishing supply has, however, kept this wool out of American reach for some years, and at the present moment it is not of any great importance. SJcin wool, — Germany also produces a large quantity of Class HI wool made by the tanners. Tlie skins are purchased by the Germans in different parts of Turkey, the Balkans, Russia, India, and China. Russian and Turkish and Balkan sheepskins are chiefly used. The German process of taking the wool from the skins is unique, and the wool resulting therefrom is different in appearance from what is produced in other countries. The products from this process are usually designated as "German skin wool." All of tlxis wool, on account of its short staple, is only suitable for a carpet " v/ool-spun" yarn, and, as the strengtn of the fiber is impaired by the process of tanning, it is used only for the medium and lower grade carpets. The principal shipping points are Berlin, Frankfort on Main, Breslau, Magdeburg, etc. Austria-Hungary. Wools of Class III produced in tliis Empire are principally the Zackel fleeces from Hungary, and some wools of a similar character which come from the border provinces of Bosnia and Herzegovina. These are all long-staple coarse wools containing much kemp and with very little quality or grade. They are deep grown, resembling in this respect, the long-stapled Scotch wool, but they are more imiform in quality than Scotch wool and the white wools contain less gray hairs. The original fleece is not very often imported into America, but at times very much of it comes to this country in the form of skin wool. There are two distinct varieties of Zackel skin wool; one long staple and the other shorter and not suitable for combing purposes. Neither of these are of any use excepting for carpet manufacture and, even then, only in the lowest grades. SJcin wool. — In addition to these, there also comes from Austria a large variety of skin or tanner's wool. This principally comes from the Austrian tanners who use many skins from Servia, Smyrna, Aleppo, and other oriental countries. They use very few Russian skins, consequently their wool is better in quality than the German skin wool. 422 EKPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUOl K. -« KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIJ3 K. 423 The Austrian skin wool, however, is produced by a ''lime" process, which, nevertheless, seems to yield a sounder or stronger wool than tlie German method, but one that is not so clean. The skin wools come from Vienna, Prague, and occasionally from Trieste. Their use is for a carpet ''wool spun" yarn for ingrains, wool tapestries, velvets, or Axmmsters. Italy. In various parts of this country is raised a little wool of Class III. It is rarely imported in the origoial fleece, but a certain amount of the "skin" or ** tanner's" wool comes principally from Naples. It is a straight-fibered and short-stapled wool used m cheap wool spun carpet yams. Tjie island of Sardinia supplies a few hundred thousand kilograms of "carpet wool." It is chiefly white, of fair combing staple, but rather straight libered. Although it can be used in tapestry or similar carpet worsted yams, American buyers do not favor it. It is used mostly locally or in Italy or France for mattress making. Greece. There is only one well-known variety of Grecian wool — ^i. e., Volo — shipped n-om the town of that name. This comes from the mountains on the Turco-Grecian frontier. It is a combing wool, straight fibered, ffood color, but not a liigh-grade wool, onljr suitable for the lower kinds of carpet worsted yams. It is not often imported into America. Iceland. Mr, Bond states that this wool is from the short-tailed or heath slieep, which he says are found in Iceland, Norway, Russia, Finland, Gothland, Faroe Islands, etc., and he includes all heath wool from Scotland, France, and Spain in the same class. He says that all these have "coarse hairy wool, those from the most northern cUmates with much fine down." This fine down or undergrowth is one characteristic of Iceland wool. When combed the noil is fine and silky with some kemp and strong hairs, not resembling the noil from any other Class III wool. On the contraiy;, the long fibera or top are straight haired and not fine. ThCT- contain some kemp, and for tliis reason there is consid- erable difficulty in usmg them for other purposes than carpets, especially the western varieties, which, in addition to being the coarsest in grade, are also very "cotted," The better quality of tliis wool comes from the eastern side of the island. It is used for the best grades of carpets, such as Axminister and Wiltons. Almost all Iceland wool is waslied in Iceland by the farmers. This washing h usually done bv running tlie sheep through the stream. This is usually termed * * back washing " or " brook wasliing. In former years this wool was sold largely to England; now most of it is brought to America by merchants who buy it in Iceland. Tltikey m Europe anb the Balkan States. Only one prominent kind of Class III wool is gix)wn in European Turkey — i. e,, Albanian or Salonica wool* This is shipped from the port of Salonica. It is a nice well-grown uniform wool of good staple, color, and grade, and is one of the best carpet wools grown. However, the last five or six years has seen very Uttle of it m the United States. The Turkish carpet and woolen factories have used most of it recently. They keep it out of the hands of American buyers by purchasmg it at just over the low-duty Umit of 12 cents per pound. It is always offered in the unwashed condition and in original fleeces. There is a small variety of this wool from the mountains of south- western Turkey which is coarser, longer stapled, and Hghter shrinkage. In addition to these, there are various kinds of Class III wools raised in Servia, Montenegro, Bulgaria, Dalmatia, and Roumania, These are mostly used m the local factories or shipped to Trieste for use in Austria or Italy. They are all coarse long-staple wools. From Roumania comes some Zackel wool of the same class as but finer in quaUty than the Hungarian or Bessarabi^n Zackel. This is principally grav wool. The skills of many of the sheep raised in this section are sold to Germany and Austria. From them are produced the German skin wools or Austrian skin wools, referred to under other headings. The sheep from these parts, as well as Turkey in Europe and Asia, are also sent to Constantinople for slaughter. From them comes the skin wool known as Kassapbatchia.^ Large quantities are produced by the tanners in Constantinople, The wool is sorted into three grades, and as there are in Turkey in Europe and the Balkan States many sheep of merino blood — imme- diate or remote— so the No. 1 grades of the Kassapbatchia is Class I wool. The Nos. 2 and 3 are Class III wools. Quite a little of this wool comes to the United States. It is good carpet wool; some of it of combing staple and all suitable for Axmin- sters or velvets, or similar grades. It seems proper here to refer to one of the wools specifically named in Class I, Schedule K of the present and previous tariffs. This is Adrianople skin wool or butchers' wool. Exactly why Congress, in 1897 for the first time, included this wool by name, is not very clear. Adrianople fleece wool is a wool of merino blood, and it required no specific designation to place it in Class I; and the ''skin wool" from Adrianople, when taken from the skin of the local sheep, would of necessity follow the classification of the fleece. It is worth while to note that Mr. Dimond, the late wool examiner at Boston, who prepared the present very complete cabinet of stand- ard samples, diet not mclude in his collection anv sample of ''Adrian- ople skin wool. It is quite probable lie was in doubt as to what Congress meant by this term. Russia. part I. The principal production in Russia of Class III wools are those commonly kno^Ti as Donskoi wools. This general designation is 1 This word means " butchers' wool." 424 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, ■I u used in America to include other Russian fleece wools, such as Sar Volga, Kasan, Tscherskoi, and Kuban wools. The principal place of exportation of the genuine Donskoi wool is Rostov on the Don,' where every season wools are washed and packed and prepared for shipment on a large scale. This kind is collected in the south and southeastern part of Russia in Europe— that part of which R(^tov is the center — from Clierson on the west to the southeast side of the River Don, and including the northern part of Caucasia. was to ship ^ v..^ v~ -n X *^ xi • 1 moderate shrinkage— say 15 to 16 per cent. But for yeai-s this has been impossible, not only on account of the much higher prevailing pnce of wools, but also because the Russians use these wools largely and make prices for them which America has to follow. To-day values of Donskois are at least 50 per cent higher than formerly. Donskoi wool, although it is strictly a wool for carpets, is a good useful wool for this purpose, being of long combing staple ; it is straight haired and '^loose'^- i. e., not clinging together well m spinning and with not much "breed" ; the fibers are of uniform tliickness and stand up well in an Axminster or velvet fabric. It is usually of a veryj white color and is not ''kempy.'' . . , i- ^ This wool was formerly considered a necessity in the manufacture of carpets, especially for ingrain and tapestry yarns; now it is grad- ually losing ground on account of high prices; also on account of the favor shown to other wools of a finer fiber. Savolga fleece wool (from beyond the Volga) comes, as the name indicates, from the eastern side of the Volga River. Prmcipally collected and washed in the district round Zantzyn it is not so care- fully prepared as the wools from Rostoff, where the business is more centrahzed and confined to a few large exporting houses. The Savolga wools are similar to Donskoi wools, and are also strictly carpet wools. They are of good, and sometimes even of long staple ; more lustrous than the Rostoff wools, but not quite so white. Ill all the Russian fleece wools are to be found a small percentage of colored wool which is sorted out and not often exported, being m good demand in Russia. Most Russian she^p are shorn twice a year— that is, in the spring and the autumn. Some years ago the autumn wool used to come to the United States in large Quantities, but it has scarcely been seen here the last 8 or 10 years. It is all used now in Russia or Germanv. Kasan fleece wool which originates from the Kasan government or district, although resembling the Savolga or Donskoi fleece, has some peculiarities of its own. It is very lustrous and slippery and has a fine downy undergrowth which makes it appear to be of the short- tail "heatli" wool variety of sheep referred to by Mr. Bond m his report as — The Northern which is found in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Finland, Goth- land, and Faroe Islands, etc. It is not so desirable a carpet wool as the Rostoff or Savolga wools on account of its slipperiness and only moderate staple. The washmg also is never as good as the other varieties of fleece wools. Tscherskoi and Kuban wools are similar to, and often included m, the Rostoff wools. KEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 425 In the center of Russia are some scattered lots of fleece wools of Class III similar to the Savolgas or Rostoff Donskois. These are sometimes classed as ''Moscow Donskoi w^ools.'' Occasionally these find their way to Rostoff or Odessa. Formerly the district surrounding Odessa raised wools on the Donskoi order, but the production has decreased to such an extent that httle, if any, of these come on the market. The Crimean Peninsula used to raise large quantities of wool of wliich the spring cUp was medium stapled combing wool. The white wool was shipped to America and used for ingrain and tapestry carpets. The autumn clip was also a good wliite wool, very desirable as an ingrain filling wool. Woolgrowing in this section of Russia has fallen off very much, and very little, if any, wool now comes to tliis country from there, or is, in fact, ever offered to American buyers. All the long-stapled Russian fleece wools, Donskois, Savolgas, etc., are higlily desirable to the makere of good carpets on account of their color, resiliency, and strength. All Russian fleece wools which are shipped to America come in the washed condition. For the preparation of the Donskoi and Savolga fleeces there are specially-built washeries where the business is carried on in a more or less elaborate scale. There is no macliineiy used for the washing of wool, but large tanks are placed along the river and the greasy fleeces, after being first assorted by color, are soaked in the tanks in wliich a certain amount of soap is used. The wool is then taken and put in other tanks and rinsed by hand, after which it is taken and spread out in the sun to dry. During the process of drying, the employees, who are mostly women, go over the wool and pick out yellow and stained and dark-, colored pieces of wool. The white wool, after drying, is then taken to the presses and packed for shipment to America. In some of the best equipped washeries hot water is also used along with the soap, which results in cleaner wool. In the Bessarabian districts around Kishineff is to be found a moderate quantity of Zackel wools, similar to what has already been described as grown in Hungary. Probably the sheep here know no international boundary, but wander at will over the borders of Hungary and Roumania. The Russian wool of this type is not so good as the Hungarian ; it is long staple, sound wool, but apt to be very coarse and hairy and wdth an enormous shrinkage. PART II. — GEORGIAN WOOLS. From the Province of Georgia come some of the best wools of Class III grown in the Russian Empire. These are known as Georgian wools. There are two varieties — Toucha, or what is commonly called "Georgian wool," and Nouka, sometimes called "Nouka Georgian." The Toucha is the better of the two in every respect and both the spring and autumn clips are very desirable wools on account of their good wliite color, springiness or resihency, strength and good sound staple. The spring wool is longer staple than the autumn wool and is also finer in quality and softer. But the latter has a 'Sviry" fea- 426 EBPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. ture, giving a fuller and thicker thread and a resistance to foot pres- sure, whicJi makes it valuable for the plush variety of carpet. The proportion of colored wool is about 10 per cent. Both white wool and colored are highly valued for good grades of plush carpets, such as Axminster, velvets, and Wiltons. The Nouka wool is also a useful carpet wool, but is yellowish tinged and sometimes contains lieht-gray hairs. It is also used in carpets, but is not put into the highest grades. As a rule there is no washing done to Georgian wools after they leave the sheep's back. The wool is sorted according to the condition or the cleanliness of the fleece, and in this manner the various marks of *'B00," "BO,'' *'B," and "BS" reoresent the degree of cleanli- ness. The colors are marked "G/' ''GC,'' or "GF'' to indicate gray, light gray, or dark gray. The pieces are the bits of short wool that fall out in the process of sorting. There are otner varieties of Class III wools grown in the Caucasus Mountains and in the southern parts of Georgia. Amongst them are Tarakama, mountain Tartary, and Shousha. None of these are of great value even for the lower-grade carpets such as ingrains. They are tender, kempy, irregular in staple and poor in color, and also very heavy in shrmkage. Very few of these are imported into America. t Most of the Geor^an wools are packed in Tiflis and shipped thence direct to American importers. PAKT HI. — camel' 8-HAIB. Specially named in Class III of Schedule K of the tariff as ''Kussian camel' s-hair." . i. i •/? This has been held by the board of appraisers not to be a classm- cation bv race or blood but only to refer to such camel' s-hair as is preparecf for shipment and packed in Eussia. All Asiatic camels are of the same race, but climatic conditions and the care or treatment given the animal have their effect on the hair. Thus in the hot southern countries this is shorter, stubbier, and of httle use. In Borthem and central Asia, the climate being milder, gives longer, sounder, and finer hair. , , , .. , i • j. 1 Russian camel's-hair varies ; the most valuable from the standpoint of the American manufacturers is the long coarse strong hau-. The use to which it is pat— i. e., the manufacture of bagging for pressing cotton seed— requires a varn of the greatest possible tensile strength, and tliis can best be ma3e from this long coarse hair. I This kind is found in the steppes between the Volga and Ural Kivere and bordering on the Caspian Sea, and it is collected and packed and shipped to America from several large cities in that section or is sent pp the Volga River and sold at the big annual fair at Nishm Novgorod in August and September. „ i • m Orenburg is also a large center for the sale of camel s-nair. llie hair here is not as long in staple nor as strong as the coarser vanety named above. It is also much dirtier. Most of the Orenburg hair is used in Russia or exported to Germany or England. In former years when cameFs-hair was free of duty, a large quan- titv of Orenburg hair was imported for use in making the cheapest gray carpet yams, but the present original cost, plus the duty, makes BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 427 it now too expensive for use in carpets. The shorter stapled camel 's- hair, such as the central Asia kinds, have little or no sale in America. Some good quahty hairs are found in Siberia, such as Chansk and Semipolatinsk hair, a httle finer grade from Biisk on the MongoUan frontier, but they are rarely exported to America. Camel's-hair is almost always shipped without any preparation other than sorting for grade. It is neither washed nor cleaned as a rule. It may be said that there is camel's-hair from other countries which is identical with some varieties of the Russian hair; it would seem as if these should pay the same duty as ** Russian" hair. PART IV. — CENTRAL ASIATIC WOOLS. These arc: Bokhara, Turkestan, Merv, trans-Caspian, and Calmuc or Kerghiz wools. Of all these there is a spring clip and an autumn clip. Bokhara wool is principally colored wool — i. e., Hght gray, dark gray, and black. The spring cHp is long staple, but with a fine under- growth which makes it an excellent felting wool. It is chiefly used m the manufacture of cheap felt boots worn by the farmers and other outdoor workers of the Northwest. The autumn Bokhara wools are aU used in Russia. j Turkestan, Merv, amd trans- Caspian wools, — These three are of the same or a very similar nature, and have, consequently, the same uses. Both the spring and autumn wools are shipped to America, j White wool constitutes 60 per cent of the product, the remainder being light gray, dark gray, and black; but the two latter are rarely sent to this country, as there is a constant home demand. \ These wools are sold to the manufacturers of medium-grade carpets made from wool spun yarns, such as Axminsters, Smyrna rugs, and ingrains. The spring-clip wool, being longer staple, is also sometimes used in the lower grades of carpet worsted yarns for ingrams and tapestries. • , Calmuc wools, which are found not only in aU central Asia but in the more northerly section of Asiatic Russia, as far north as the Siberian Railway, and which are also found in Mongolia, are all from the sheep owned by the nomadic tribes of the Kherghiz. Without proper care or attention of any kind, driven about from place to place, where the land is rough and the pasturage poor, these sheep produce a rough, coarse, matted wool, which does not seem to be shorn, but rather torn off the sheep's back. The inside of the fleece is principally coarse, short, kempy hair, indicating hard, rough usage and poor nourishment. There is a considerable variation in Calmuc wools; none, however, are of great attraction except at very low prices^ even to the maker of the poorest carpets. There has been very little sold to America in recent years: especially since the decline of the ingrain-carpet and Smyrna-rug industry. These wools are packed in the larger cities of central Asia. The Bokhara wool is pnncipally shipped from the city of Bokhara, where it is assorted for color and also cleaned by hand— that is, by shaking out the dry dirt, and also by willowing. ^ Turkestan, Merv, and trans-Caspian wools are sorted and packed in various cities of central Asia, including Merv, Tashkent, and Tur- ■ "iM|l»gl!'i!!;' - -y'«l«lllf ■iiiM I ■ .III. — H 428 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, f I I I ft "I kostan. Some of them are also washed at these places, although quite a large proportion of these wools are what are termed '^pere- gou;" that is, brook washed. PART V. — ADJACENT COUNTRIES. The business of the various countries bordering on Asiatic Kussia and Siberia is naturally with Russia, the merchants from that coun- try controlling especialljr the export business of the raw products. Wool is one of the principal articles, and for this reason is treated iinder the general heading of '^Russia." Afghanistan is a proliibited land to all wliite men to such an extent that its products are all exported by the native traders to the nearest adjacent countries. Thus, produce of various kinds from southern Afghanistan goes into India; from the western part it goes into Persia; and from the northern part, near Herat and other adjoining sections, it goes into Russia. Wool is one of the principal exports, and such of it as goes over the northern border is conveyed in its original unwashed state into Asiatic Russia, where it is prepared, washed, and packed. Kerki and Chardchui are the principal Russian markets for Afghan wools. Its characteristics are those of a Khorassan wool, but somewhat longer in staple and not so fme in grade; but it is better in all these points than a Turkestan wool. It is at times mixed with and sold as a Khorassan wool Afghanistan, wool is always shipped out of that country in the natural condition, and consequently it has a very heavy shrinkage, not only in washing, but also in sorting and preparing for export. PART VI. — PERSIA- KHORASSAN WOOLS. Kliorassan wools come from the eastern part of Persia from the Province of Kliorassan. There are two chps — spring and autumn — and both consist of white and colored wools, with about 60 per cent of white. Both clips are usually sold in the waslied condition and the whites and colors packed separately. The washing of Kliorassan wool is usually crudely done by the native growers or collectors, although there are some washing 4tab- lishments in Meshed modeled after the Russian pattern. The spring clip is of fair combing staple, the wliite a good color, the grade rather fine for a carpet wool — better than the Turkestan or Transcaspian wools of central Asia. This is a wool much sought after for carpets of good grade when price is low; the last few seasons it has, however, been too expensive for American use. The fall or autumn clip is also a very desirable carpet wool of a good white color, high grade (for a Class III wool)^ springy or resil- ient, and a very good spinning wool. It is required for the best grades of wool-spun carpet yam for Axminsters and other similar fabrics. It is not as costly as the fleece wool, and conseouently is much in demand in America. Colored or gray autumn Kliorassans are also considerably used for coarse felts. The principal point of shipment is MeshetL where are stationed many Russian and other European houses. All of it is shipped on camels or carts to the Russia frontier and thence by rail and steamer to Batoum. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. PART VII. — KASHGAR WOOL. 429 This comes from the Province of East or Chinese Turkestan. The wool is named after the capital city whence it comes. It is washed, sorted, and packed in the Kashgar district, Russian or Tar- tar merchants having their agencies there, and is brought by camels or other similar transportation into Russian Turkestan, where it is shipped by rail to Russia. This is a high-priced wool, of very good white color, silky, and soft, fine grade. It is one of the highest-grade wools from central Asia. Although a very much-hkod wool for carpets of high grade, the price has been prohibitive in late years, as the Russians hke it for woolen cloths and other fabrics. PART VIII. — MOXGOLIAX WOOL. There are three divisions of MongoHan wools. First, the wool from western Mongoha; second, from central Mongoha; third, from eastern Mongoha or Manchuria. That from western Mongoha is washed in the district around Kobdo, thence conveyed in the autumn to Biisk in Siberia and sorted and packed there in the winter months. All Mongohan wools are kempy, but the wool from this part is the freest from kemp, whitest color, and best in grade. It is a very valu- able wool for Axminister carpets, as it dyes the very brightest colors, spins well, and helps to make a thick, springy carpet. Many thou- sand bales are shipped yearly to the United States from Biisk, pur- chased by American merchants or shipped by Russian merchants on consignment. They come bv river to the Siberian Railway and thence to the Baltic port. In all the central and western parts of Mongoha are large quantities of sheep, and the visible supply of wool has increased remarkably the last 8 or 10 years. Tliis has made up largely for the loss of the autumn Donskois and Crimean wools. Up to 15 years ago Mongohan wool was scarcely known here; some of it went dowTi to Chinese ports, but most of it remained in Mongolia, used by the natives in their rough, homemade felts. The Mongohan wools from central Mongoha are shipped from Urga. They are washed and packed here and conveyed on sledges or carts to the frontier, thence by steamer to Werchneudinsk, and here thev are shipped over the Siberian Railway fine to a Baltic port whence 'thev are forwarded to America. Most of the Urga wool finds its way to American mills. It is also a good wool for Axminster carpets; the quality and color is not equal to the Busk wool and it has more coarse hairs and kemps Ihe wool from eastern Mongolia is also called Manchurian. It is a new development since the close of the Russian- Japanese War A rough, coarse hairy and kempy wool of good color, it is only suit- able for the lowest grades of carpets. This is shipped tlirough Kussia in Europe or to Vladivostok and via the Pacific Although there can be sorted out of all Mongolian wools some portions of good staple for combing purposes, the proportion of this kind is not very large; most of it is a filling wool. There is with it usua ly 20 per cent of gray or colored wopl which is generally used locally or sold m Russia. b j ^ 430 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Ill These wools have usually been washed by the native merchants in the place of origin or in the nearest riTer. This has been done to save expense of transporting the heavy greasy wool over the Russian frontier. Recently washeries have been established in Mongolia by Euro- pean houses, where the wool is not only well washed and dried, but also sorted carefully according to quahty and color. Asiatic Wools. In the entire Continent of Asia there is only one small section where there can be found any wool that does not belong by race or blood to Class III. It is said that once upon a time one of the former Sultans of Turkey owned a small flock of merino sheep and from these tliere was oBtained f or many years a small quantity of so-called merino wool, to wliich was given the name Panderma wool. More probably, however, the wool known by tliis name is obtained from Kumelian sheep, which each spring are taken over to the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus and driven tlirough the rich grazing lands near Panormo. The production is insignificant and is only here men- tioned because a type is correctly included in the present cabinet of standard samples under No, 146 as a Class I wool. Two other varieties of wool from Asia are now included in Class I, but this is quite arbitrary and enturely contrary to blood or race classification. These are: Bagdad wool, which is described in detail hereafter.* Also Cliina lamb's wool, a designation applied to a very limited quantity of China wool and wldcli is not of importance to the Ameri- can manufacjturer of carj^ets. Both these are, however, by race or blood, of Class III. There is an infinite variety of wools of all grades and conditions included in what is produced m Asia. There are some of good quality and others coarser than hair, but all of them are primarily, if not entirely, used and only suitable for the production of carpets. In fact, the carpet industry in America depends more on wools from Asia than from all the rest of the world. It is worth while to keep in mind the fact that the countries which produce tlie best of these wools are the homes of the oriental ru^s or carpets. These carpets which are so largely imported and sold in Amenca are all manufac- tured in Asiatic Turkey, in Persia, in central Asiatic Russia, or in India. In tliese countries are to be found the best grades of carpet wools grown in Asia; not only the wools that are finest in fiber, but also tlie wools that produc^ in a carpet the most pleasing effect and have the best wearing qualities. The American manufacturers of carpets have become more tliun ever alive to this fact within the last 10 or 15 years, and as a result are producing from these very same wools rugs and carnets which in appearance are as attractive as the oriental and wliich they claim will wear quite as well, if not better. For this i-eason the manufacture re of the highest grades of carpet® to-dav in America depend in a great measure upon the supply of the wool that comes from this part of Asia, and without them the produc- tion of the best grades would not be possible. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Turkey ix Asia. 431 Asiatic Turkey produces many varieties of Class III wool, all of them carpet wools of the best kinds. In tlie list below is given man}- well-known sorts, but there are many other minor grades or classes, ©ome of which are mixed with the better-known kinds. The princi- pal classes are: From Asia Minor and Anatolia: Angora, Caramanian, Samsoun, Yosgat, Smyrna (called in the tariff ^^ native Smyrna"), Yerli, Bk)ul- dour, Konieh, etc. Cyprus wool, from the Island of Cyprus. From Syria: Aleppo, Orfa, Damascus, and Jaffa wools. From Mesopotamia: Bagdad, Awassi or Mossoul, Kerkouk, ICaradi or Caracasch, Bussorali wools. There are also wools coming into the region of the River Tigris from the hills and tablelands of southwestern Persia, including the Prov- inces of Luristan and Kurdistan. These are mixed in with the Karadi, Awaasi, or Bussorah wools. From the south of Persia comes Bushire wool, shipped from the city of that name. Tlie Aiigora group comprises genuine Angora, Samsoun, Yosgat, Caramanian, Eskesnir, Smyrna, Bouldour, etc. The principal mar- kets for the Angora variety of wools are Constantinople, Smyrna, Samsoun, Angora, and Mersina. They are usually imported in the unwashed condition, often in the original state, unclassed or unas- sorted. The percentage of colored wool is rarelv over 5 per cent and mostly from 1 to 2 per cent. Tiiey are all of a good grade, long- corabing staple, well-ffrown wools (i. e. not verv kempy), and are uniform in grade, and therefore adapted to the very choicest kinds of carpets. On account of the heavy slirinkage, which averages over 50 per cent, they are usually too costly for '''filling" or -wool-spun carpet yarns, even for wool Axminsters or Wiltons; therefore the shorter staple varieties are sold to tlie local Turkish carpet factories, who also buj the longer wools largely and produce from them enor- mous quantities of Turkish carpets. Incidentally it may be said that the largest group or combination of onental cari>et manufacturers m Turkey has its headquarters in bmyma. It clauns to have 45,000 hand looms and to employ 70 000 people, scattered through Asia iMinor, in the manufacture of tliese carpets. A lurkish hand loom is, of course, a decidedly different proposition to an American power loom; nevertheless, the output of this one concern is very large. It is therefore interesting to note that the American nulls making the best carpets i-equire the same material as tliese oriental carpet factories, and have at all times to meet their active competition m the purchase of raw material, as well as in the sale ot the finished product. Cyprus wool is from the island of that name. The production is not large and the wool is not very much sought by American buyers. It is^coarse and kempy and straight fibered, absolutely unsuitable for the best grades of carpts, and not very desirable for the poorer ones it is all combing wool. The Aleppo group composed of wools from Aleppo, Oiia, Horns and llama, Damascus, and Jaffa, are now usually imported into America in the washed condition, although m former years these 432 BEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOAKB ON SCHEDULE K. ca: me in the original state as packed in the interior pome of the washed woolTare "skirted'' and "hand cleaned — j-.e-. ?11 ^e loose heavj' dm, is shaken out and they are sent forward m this con- ditioA. Usually there averages about 10 per cent of colored fleeces ^"S! WTO there^iTan abundance of water and as the shrinkage in scouring of the original wool is always very beevy-f rom 53 to 55 per cent-it has been found more advantageous to the importer to W clean washed wool and not only save ^uty and ^ rfiglj^t "i* *« dirt, but to have an article which he c_an guarantee to the buyer. EVen the European buyer now prefers the washed wools, whioh, being sold usuaUy under a guarantee as to shnnkage, are much more ^^^'^ri^Jng is usuaUy done in a series of tubs by the large streams or rivers. ThS fleece is dipped first into one tub and rinsed then mto the next and so on to the'last tub until the required degree of clean- Less has been reached LittlC, if any, soap or alkali js used These wools are aU long, combing wools— yen- chMce for color, erade and staple, sound, strong woolk, and resdicnt. They are used C ali the best ckipets, WiltoS, Axminsters. velvets, and Brussels, and the various kinds of high-grade dom^tic rugs. The original shipping points aro chiefly A eppo Damascus and Beirut, an^ most of^them are put on board ship at Alexandretta or ^ From Mesopotamia the group comprises Awa^is or Mossouls. Kamdis or Car^acasch and also Bu^orali wools. J" t^is^JR— also be included Bagdad wools. This wool was taken out of Uass lU S plaSd in Class! in the tariff of 1897, although it dacs not belong to that eroup by race or blood. It is one of the same ra«e as tlie Aw^^ but in the fertile valleys of lower Mesopotamia the sheep ^n^ter nurtured and give, consequently, a wool of somewhat '^aJiSd wools contain 40 to 50 per cent or more of colored wools— i n browns and blacks and grays. , „ . , , , , j AwaSior Mossoul wool comes from the Provmce of Mossoul and We^ the t^ rivere-Tigris and Euphrates. From Kerkouk Smes the iLHtapk of this class of woof, although m the western rcrioL are ™ Awa^is of verv even grade and g(K>d staple and at Sr^ome of them are bought V the Aleppo merchants and mixed ^TheVroportTon^of colored fleeces varj^ in these wools; anvwhere from 25 to 40 per cent is the rule. Most Awassis are shipped m.the Sed condition, but the washing is very irregular as it is done ma very crude manner, often by simply dippmg the entire loUed-up grely fleece into the water so that the outside «"rf^^^« ""^^^^P'^^f tialh' cleansed and the interior is untouched. The shrinkage oi different iXas imported varj-, therefore, very greatly, ninmng any- where from 12 to 40 per cent. , . . . xi The best washed wools are dipped several times J«to the stre^^^ each thne being rinsed or sciiieezed between the IW^^^ a series of tubs are used as in the case of the Aleppo ^o^ls. Karadi or Caracasch wools come from the moimtamous repons of the Perso-Turkish frontier and consequently are cM>arser ancT W^ stapled than the Awassi. Varymg very much m different lots, both BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 433 in color and grade, they almost all contain a large proportion of fleeces with gray hairs, so that it is impossible to get a lot of purely white wool. This is irrespective of the colored fleeces, which run from 25 to 40 per cent, as m the Awassis. These wools are mostly packed in Bagdad, as, although there are large collectors in the interior points, transportation for packed bales to Bagdad is very difficult. Both are strictly carpet wools, but are used for the best grades of carpets. They are shipped by steamer from Bagdad to the seacoast and thence on ocean steamers to Europe or America. Bussorah wools are prepared and packed in the city of Bussorah. They are local wools, although some come from the Persian side of the river. They are not very desirable carpet wools, bemg more tender and irregidar in grade and staple than the Awassis and Karadis, and also of heavy shrinkage. The proportion of colored wool is large and the white wool is rarelv a clear white. Very few axe imported into America; most are sold in Liverpool. Bushire. — This is similar to the Bussorah wool, but is still more dirty and greasy and very rough and irregular in grade and some- times of very snort staple. The region whence they are shipped is hot, dry, and sandy and this shows in the unsatisfactory character of the wool. It is also not a prominent factor in American importations of Class III; most of it is sent to London or Liverpool or Marseille. India and Ad.tacent Countries. It is estimated that India exports 60,000,000 to 70,000,000 pounds of wool each year, aU of which is of Class III. Most of it is sent to Liverpool, where it is sold at auction every two months. A certain quantity, however, is shipped direct to America from India. Although most wool snipped from India is classed as East India wool. Quite a considerable amount of it is imported into that country from the adjoining countries. Afghanistan, aheady referred to as sending wool to Russia, furnishes in lar^e quantities some of the best of the East India wools. Baluchistan is also drawn on for supplies of wools and very much comes over the northern borders from Tibet. India itself is, however, a very large wool raising country. The grades vary from a fine Joria to a coarse Marwar, which latter is as poor in every way as a goat hair. All of them contain a large pro- portion of gray or colored wool. Joria wool is, as stated, the finest haired of these wools, but it is of short staple. In its original unsorted condition it contains much rough unsightly coarse and burry wool, but the No. 1 sorts taken from the best parts of the fleeces are of very good grade and make a springy lofty yarn or fabric. Vicanere or Bicanere wools contain some combing wool, although most of it is medium or short staple. It is not so fine in grade as the Joria, a Httle better color, but straighter fibered. Occasionally the best sorts of both these wools are imported for use by the woolen manufacturers when rough cheviots or homespuns are fashionable. Kandahar wools, which come into India from southern Afghanistan, axe the best carpet wools shipped from that country. They contain the best combing wools, suitable for high-grade carpets — ^Wiltons Axminsters, and Brussels — ^wools of good bright cok>r, ahnost free 32080'— H. Doc. 342. 62-2, vol 1 ^28 434 BEPOKT OF TAMFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDUUB 435 from kemp; strong, wiry, resilient wools. From them the native factories produce the well-known Indian carpets. There are also shorter staple Kandahars, very much used by the makers of wool- spun carpet yams; also very good carpet wools. The wools from Baluchistan incluoe the Kelat wools, which are lower in grade and shorter in staple than the Kandahar. These are bought very largely by the makers of the cheaper kinds of Axmin- sters, tapestries, and Smyrna rues. Pacputan and Jesselmere wools are similar to Kelats: usually not very good in color. They are fillmg wools only. The sorting and packing of aU these wools is done in India. Bom- bay and Karachi are the principal places, but there are many presses and sorting establishments also in the larger cities of the Punjab. Most of the East India wools are washed at the place of packing, the water being drawn from weUs especiaUy dug for the purpose. From the Province of Madra^ comes a smaU quantity of a low-grade short-stapled hairy wool. It is of little value to American manufac- turers. From the Province of Kashmir also comes a goat's wool. It resembles a sheep's wool in many ways, but it is a goat's hak and properly placed in Class II, although of too poor a value on which to p&j 12 cents per pound duty. Tibet wool. — Tnis comes from that large and very much unknown section of the Chinese Empire called Tibet. It is brought over the northeastern frontier of India and sold and packed in some of the border towns, or else brought on to Calcutta for that purpose. This wool is handled by Calcutta merchants who have dealings with the interior in other products. Although it is shipped from India, Tibet wool is in a class by itself, and is not generally included in the term East India wool. In its original condition it is a very unsightlv wool and very difficult to handle, but a careful sorting of it produces, in the different colors, wool that is very desirable for long staple, good spinning quality, and uniform* grade. It is principally used as a worsted wool for high-grade carpets, such as Brussels and Wiltons. There is a strong resemblance between this wool and the wool from Kashgar. It is quite probable that they are very closely related to each other. The visible production of Tibet wool has increased largely the last 10 years, on account of the opening up of that territory to foreign traders. CHINA. This country produces one-third or more of the carpet wool which is shipped to the United States. There are a great many varieties. The variation is not only in quality but in staple, in cleanliness or condition, in decree of coarse nair or kemp, in color, and m almost every other possible way in which wool can vary. Many of them are without any definite name, and those which have a name can not easily be located by this name on any ordinary map. The exact places of origin of some kinds is weU known; others are only known to come from some undefined place in the interior. Broadly speaking, these wools can only be divided into combing wools and filling wools, only suitable for carpets, but on account of the wide variation in grade there can be found those which axe suitable ' I for the finest Axminster or Wilton; whereas others are only fit for an ingrain carpet or a Smyrna rug. The quahty runs from a fine, soft, silky variety to a short, poor, kempy wool. The low price of certain of the poorer kinds makes them attractive to the manufacturer of the cheapest carpets. They are all good spinning wools, but as they are without life or springiness, they produce a yam which is "lean'' or "flat." It is hardly possible to describe in detail each kind of China wool. It could only be done if illustrated by samples, so that reference can only be made to a very few of the varieties. It may be said, however, that the central, northern, and western parts of China are the wool-growing regions; that very Httle, if any, comes from the southern provinces and that Shanghai and Tientsm are the chief markets for the sale, sorting, packing, and shipping. To both of these places large quantities are brought down from the interior; that which comes to Shanghai arrives by boat down the Yangtze River, and what comes to Tientsin arrives by rail or camel or other land transportation. Tientsin is by far the larger market of the two; wool is one of the leading articles shipped from that city. The combing varieties of China wool are Sining wool and Szechwan wool. Smmg wool is a good, long staple, weU-^rown wool, makmg a very good carpet worsted yam, and is used for all kinds of carpets. It is not a lofty wool, but on account of its color and good spinning qual- ities finds great favor with almost every manufacturer. Szechwan wool is also a combing wool, but is shorter in staple than a Sining wool. It is also used as a filling wool. Ball wools are a peculiar variety wmch come principally from the northern part of China. They are in Uttle rolls or balls. Some of these are very fine in grade, and are, for this reason, very good spinning wools. Woosie wool is also an odd variety of a soft, silky nature, a good spinning wool , but of indifferent color. This comes from the neighbor- hood of Shanghai. The following is a partial list of some of the chief varieties of China wool, but the correctness of the orthography is not vouched for. Coming from Shanghai and the Yangtze Kiver, the Szechwan and Woosie. Coming from Tientsin, the Hsee Ning (or Si-mng), the Kinchow, the Kooiun, the Liangchow, the Yungchang, the Paotze, the Hsihtsui, the Hada, the Chentze, the Hsiko, and Ngotze, and the ball wool. China wools come down from the interior usually in the heavy, greasy, unsorted, and unwashed condition. There are large sorting establishments, both in Shanghai and Tientsin, where the wool is graded according to color and more or less according to quality of staple. There are also machine-washing establishments with the latest improved American washing apparatus, as well as "willows " for shak- mg out the dry dirt from the wools that do not need washing. AFEICA. Africa produces very little Class III wool. Egypt produces some wool which was formerly considered Class III, not being racially of mermo or Enghsh blood, and it was ''simHar^' to others named in 436 BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Class in, but Congress, in the tariff of 1897, placed wool from E^t in Class I— an arbitraiy classification. The Sudan produces some wool of Class III, but it isneyer brought to America direct from that country. There are some Sudan sheep skins tanned in Europe, the wool of which has been imported here in smaU lots. North Africa, Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, Morocco, aU raise wools from sheep of Class III crossed with merino. The trace of merino is very remote, but still enough to place them in Class I, although many are little used for clothing purposes. '^Morocco" is one of tne names added in the tariff of 1897 to wools of Class I. It belongs to this class by race or blood. The wool from other parts of Africa io rarely seen. AUS'mA.LASIA • This, the greatest wool-growing section of the world, is not a pro- ducer of Class III wools. There are few, if any, * 'native'' sheep here, merino and cross-bred wools making up the entire output. SOUTH AMERICA. Wools of Class III are found in two sections of this continent. First, on the west coast; second, in the Argentine. They are specifically named in the tariff '' Native South American, Valparaiso and Cordova wools.'' The west coast wo^ls are principaUy produced in Chile and are usually sliipped from Valparaiso to New York. The supply is limited growing less each year, owing to the world-wide fasfion of cross breeding of sheep. All &uth American carpet wools are excellent wools for high grade carpets, good in color, quality, and staple. They are ahnost entirely shipped to the United States. Cordova wools are also diminishing in supply, but there are yet several million pounds produced yearly. They come mostly from the Provinces o? Cordova and Sai Luis in >hi Argentina alad are packed in the interior and shipped via Rosario. The characteristics of Cordova wools are high grade, white color, good combing staple and a loftiness or resiliency unsurpassed. They have a rather finer bottom than most wools of Class III, hence the noil has greater value. South American wools of Class III are usually shipped in the unwashed condition, although some lots have been washed both in South America and other places. The Extent to Which These Wools A»e Utilized in Fabrics Other Than Rugs or Carpets. Certain wools of Class III are principally used in the manufacture of low-grade felt goods. It has already been mentioned that Bokhara wools are imported almost entirely for the manufacture of felt boots. These felt boots are a low-grade rough article, which requires a strong coarse wool, yet one that felts readily — to make a thick weather-re- sisting fabric. Bokhara wool has been found the most suitable on p III. * 7 I REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 437 account of its answering everj requirement, and being at the same time, low priced. With this is used Khorassan wool and some low- grade East India wools. Of the same materials are produced coarse "Saddle" and other low-grade felts and also some common horse coverings or blankets. There is probably 1,000,000 to 1,500,000 pounds of Class III wools sold yearly for these purposes. Strictly speaking, all wools can be used in the manufacture of fabrics for clothing purposes, and in fact, they are so used and used largely in Europe and Asia. But the cloths and blankets that are there made from carpet wools are grades lower than those usually sold in this country. The coat of the Russian peasant made from Calmuc wools and cow hair or the blanket of the English laborer made from coarse East India wool and cotton, are considerably below commonly accepted quality standards in America, In fact, the use of Class III wools in fabrics manufactured for clothing purposes is commonly restricted to a small percentage of the total quantity of wool manufactured into these fabrics to be worn by American men or women. The use of a carpet wool in woolen or worsted cloth is usually the result of fashion. When cheviots or homespuns or similar coarse fibered goods are in fashion, the manufacturer of these goods must of necessity mix in a certain percentage of the kempy rough wools of Clajss III to produce the needed effect. It can not be obtained from any domestic wool or from any foreign wools of Class I or Class II and recourse must therefore be had to Class III wools which give the de- sired results where blended in limited quantity with wools of better grade. ^ The wools of Class III diverted to this use are also principally used m and are absolutely required for the manufacture of carpets. The proportion or extent to which any are diverted from the manufacture of carpet and rugs is not easy to estimate. It can be stated, however, that although some Class III wool is used by the manufacturers of this country, the total amount so used even during the vears when fashion has caused these wools to be in demand, is small in comparison to the total quantity imported. There IS no special wool in Class III that can be said to go regularly mto this grade of goods. Different manufacturers experiment with different wools. Each one has his own idea as to whut will best produce an imitation of the Scotch cheviot or Irish homespun. There is very Uttle wool of Class III now raised in the United States. Iwenty-five years ago there were 6,000,000 or 7,000,000 pounds of wool of a carpet grade grown m some of the Western States and Terri- tories, but.it has been estimated that not more than a half million pounds of this domestic wool is now sold annually to carpet mills* 438 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABB Olf SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON" SCHEDULE K. l\ 439 Country. Europe: Great Britain. Ireland.. Portugal . Spain. France... Germany. Austria. . . Italy Greece Iceland Turkey in Eu rope and Bal kan States. Bnasla. Asia: Russia. Afghanistan Persia Chinese or East- em Turke- stan. Mongolia Asia Minor, or Anatolia. Cyprus. Syria... Mesopotamia... Name. Scotch black-laced or highland wool. Herdwick Haslock Black-faced Oporto Castel Branco Pyrensan Castilian (sundry small varieties). Balearic Pyrenean Corsican Heide or heath German skin Zackel fleece Zackelskin Austrian skin Bosnian , Herzegovinian Italian coarse Sardinian Skin wool Volo Iceland wool Albanian or Salonica. . Servian Montenegrin Bulgarian Dalmatian Roumanian Kassapbatchia DonrJcoi Tscherskol and Kuban Savolga Moscow Donskoi Crimean Bessarabian Description. Long staple strong combhig. Georgian Toucha Georgian N ouka Tarycama (mountain , Tarfcluy). Shousha , Camels Hair Bokhara Turkestan Merv Transcasplan , Calmue Afghan , Kandahar (see India). Khorassan Karadi (see Mesopota- mia). Bushire (see Mesopo- tamia). Kashgar do Short staple filhng; also long staple combing. Long staple strong combing Good staple combmg ....do Long staple combing .do. .do. .do. Medium to long staple combing. Short staple filling , Long staple strong combing Short filling staple Long staple strong combing Long staple combing Long staple straight flbered Short staple filling Long straight flbered Combing straight flbered Medium combing Long strong combing do ....do .....do do.. Short and long staple Long staple straight flbered. "lAo'.lll""'.]]'.]'.'."'.'." do do Long strong combing Mongolian . . Manchurian. Angora Caramania. Samsoun. . . Yosgat Smyrna Yerii Bouldour.. Konleh.... Cyprus Aleppo Orfa Damascus. Jaffa. Medium to short staple do Medium to short staple badly grown. do Varies Medium staple, mostly colored Short to medium staple do do Short hairy Medium to long staple Short to medium staple. Medhun staple lustrous. Medium staple kempy ...do Good combing sound staple. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. Combmg staple very kempy and irregular. Good combing sound staple do do. do Bagdad I Good sound staple, mostly brown I and black. A wassi, or Mossoul I Good combing sound staple. Grade. Common to medium. Common. Common to medium. Common grade. Medium and lustrous Good. Common to medium. Do. Do. Do. Do. Medium. Medium to good. Coarse. Do. Medium to good. Coarse. Do. Do. Do. Medium. Coarse. Medium to good. Good. Coarse. Do. Do. Do. Do. Common to medium. Medium. Do. Do. Do. Do. Coarse. High. Fair. Poor. Do. Varies. Fair. Do. Do. Do. Coarse. Medium. Good. Country. Name. Description, Grade. A «la— Continued . Mesopotamia .. Kerkouk Good combing sound staple do C1CU\4^ Karadi, or Caracasch . . Bussorah Do Medium to long staple Irregular. Bushire do India Joria Short staple filhng . . Very coarse to very fine. Coarse to good. Medium to good. Fair to good. Do Vicanere Long staple combing and short staple filling. Kandahar Khelat Short to medium staple Packputan do Jessefmere do Do Marwar Short hairy Very coarse. Madras do....".. Thibet Medium to long staple combing Lontr combine Medium. Do. Do China Sining Szechuen Medium combins . "" Woosie Short stanle Do BaU Medium stanle kemnv Coarse to fine. Varies. Do. Do Kinchow Medium filling staple kempy do Koolun Liangchow do '.'.'.'.'.'. Yungchang do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Paotze do Hsihtsui do ^ Hada do Chentze do Hsiko do Afri/m Ngotze do !-"!"":":;;:;::: Egyptian Soudan Long lustrous combing Short staple Medium. Common. South America Valparaiso Long sound staple Cordova do Do. Irregular. Good. North America: Mexico Mexican Irresular. United States... Navajo Short to medium stanle High. Fair. Common. Good. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Poor. Good. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. t \ PART 11. RAW WOOLS -ADDENDA. SPECIAL REPOKT ON TYPES OF BRITISH SHEEP AND COSTS OF MAINTENANCE— SHEEP IN CANADA. 441 BLANK PAGE(S) LINCOLN SHEARLING RAM. TYPES OP BRITISH SHEEP AlTD COST OF MAnTTEITAirCE. Next in importance to the fine merinos in the world's wool supply are the so-called "crossbreds *' that figure so largely in the Australasian and South American clips; light-conditioned, useful combing wools shorn from a dual-purpose sheep produced by the mingling of the blood of the famous English mutton breeds with that of various merino types. The British breeds have influenced the wools of New Zealand, Australia, Argentina, and the United States to such an extent as to render some further details as to their character and as to the manner in which they are managed in their native land of interest to all who desire to understand clearly the basis of the United States tariff classification by ''blood." The crossbreds not only figure conspicuously in our importations under Class I, but Class II of the existing tariff law was created especially to establish the terms upon which the straight EngHsh wools in their uncrossed state should be admitted. THE PLACE OF SHEEP HUSBANDRY IN GREAT BRITAIN. The agriculture of Great Britain is peculiarly based on sheep farm- ing. There are several reasons for this fact; the moist, mild cHmate that makes grass and other forage crops grow well, the mildness of winters that makes it practicable to keep sheep out of doors and on the fields all winter^ and the fact that tne country is so old and far removed from a virgin condition that constant thought must bo given to the question of maintaining fertihty in the soils. As a rule, sheep are most numerous in England on soils of very moderate natural fertility. On some farms m Yorkshire the cus- tom is to plow to a depth of no more than 4 inches, because the soil is so shallow. There sheep are folded and fed on the land, their feet tread it down, their manures drop on it^ and the result is that the English farmers reap harvests far exceedmg the average crops of the Umted States. The cUmate of Great Britain is very favorable to the sheep industry. Mild in winter, it is yet ordinarily cool in summer, and more probably from climatic reasons than any other the scourge of internal para- sites is not so much felt in England as it is in the corn-belt region of the United States, where one parasite, the stomach worm, has inflicted disastrous losses and prevented the heavy stocking seen in the Old World. This destroyer is little felt in Great Brit^. It is a parasite thriving in warm cHmates. Wherever Indian com grows there is the stomach-worm parasite. Sheep farming in Great Britain is conducted with two thoughts uppermost— the production of mutton and the upbuilding of the land. Wool is also given attention, but is always a secondary matter, as the profit comes from mutton. The Englishman is, however, a close I KENT OR ROMNEY MARSH RAM. INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE LINCOLN SHEARLING RAM. KENT OR ROMNEY MARSH RAM. TYPES OF BRITISH SHEEP AND COST OF MAHTTENANCE. Next in importance to the fine merinos in the world's wool supply are the so-called "crossbreds " that figure so largely in the Australasian and South American clips; light-conditioned, useful combing wools shorn from a dual-purpose sheep produced by the mingling of the blood of the famous English mutton breeds with that of various merino types. The British breeds have influenced the wools of New Zealand, Australia, Argentina, and the United States to such an extent as to render some further details as to their character and as to the manner in which they are managed in their native land of interest to all who desire to understand clearly the basis of the United States tariff classification by ''blood." The crossbreds not only figure conspicuously in our importations under Class I, but Class II of the existing tariff law was created especially to establish the terms upon which the straight EngHsh wools in tlieir uncrossed state should be admitted. THE PLACE OF SHEEP HUSBANDRY IN GREAT BRITAIN. The agriculture of Great Britain is peculiarly based on sheep farm- ing. There are several reasons for this fact; the moist, mild cHmate that makes grass and other forage crops grow well, the mildness of winters that makes it practicable to keep sheep out of doors and on the fields all winter^ and the fact that the country is so old and far removed from a virgin condition that constant thought must be given to the question of maintaining fertility in the soils. As a rule, sheep are most numerous in England on soils of very moderate natural fertility. On some farms in Yorkshire the cus- tom is to plow to a depth of no more than 4 inches, because the soil is so shallow. There sheep are folded and fed on the land, their feet tread it down, their manures drop on it, and the result is that the English farmers reap harvests far exceeding the average crops of the Umted States. The cUmate of Great Britain is very favorable to the sheep industry. Mild in winter, it is yet ordinarily cool in summer, and more probablv from cKmatic reasons than any other the scourge of internal para- sites is not so much felt in England as it is in the corn-belt region of the United States, where one parasite, the stomach worm, has inflicted disastrous losses and prevented the heavy stocking seen in the Old World. This destroyer is Httle felt in Great Britam. It is a parasite thriving in warm cHmates. Wherever Indian com grows there is the stomach-worm parasite. Sheep farming in Great Britain is conducted with two thoughts uppermost— the production of mutton and the upbuilding of the land. Wool IS also given attention, but is always a secondary matter, as the profit comes from mutton. The Englishman is, however, a close 444 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARB ON SCHEDU1.E K. student of breeding and has produced many types of sheep, all excel- lent in their way, while some have wonderful value. The following is a brief description of the leading breeds of British origin: THE BLACK-FACED HIGHLAND SHEEP. These sheep inhabit the high, heather-covered mountains of Scot- land. They are half wild, Hving always on their own special hills, belonging with the land and passing with the land under change of tenants. They have nearly the instmcts of the deer, eat heather and grass, and are better suited to the mountains on which they were evolved than any other breed that has been tested there. They fat- ten well, their mutton is good and in demand at prices somewhat above other and larger breeds, their wool is long and coarse and enters the markets of the United States under Class III. Blackface sheep are seldom fed either in winter or sunamer, but live altogether in the open and on the hills. Their lambs are often taken to the lowlands and fed during their first winter, otherwise many of them would perish. The blackface ewe is quite generally bred to a ram of one of the heavier breeds, a Border Leicester or Oxford, or sometimes a Cheviot Shropshire. These crossbred lambs fatten better and attain larger size than the pure-bred blackfaces. If kept on the lowlands the crossbred ewes are often retained and again bred to mutton rams. If they are to go to the heather the pure blackface blood is kept, since these are hardier and thrive better under exposure and poor "picking" than the crossbreds. Blackface sheep have a number of times been exported to the United States and South America, but thus far they have never been quite a success off their native heath. They shear from 3 to 7 pounds per head, depending on sex, age, and condition. The wool is coarse and is largely made into carpets. Considerable blackface wool comes direct to the United States from Scotland, and presumably most of it is there used in carpet manufacture. A small amount is used, mixed with other wools, in making ' ' tWeeds." The ' 'Harris tweeds/ made usually on hand looms on islands off the Scottish coast, are m part at least woven from this wool. SCOTCH CROSSBREDS. In Scotland, in the lower lying land and in the foothills, are great numbei-s of crossbreds. These are usually sheep having a mixture of Cheviot and Leicester or Border Leicester blood. They are more or less of a Cheviot type, and are sheep of medium size, with good forms, hardy, prolific, readily fattened on grass or with grain, and profitable in their region. While these sheep are commonly termed '* crossbreds" yet very often they are a true type, well fixed. They produce a type of wool used in making "cheviot" cloths. The fibers of this wool are from 3 inches to 5 inches long. The wool varies con- siderably in different districts, but is of such repute that it is bought from year to year by British manufacturers to be made into high- class tweeds. Coming southward, we find the hills where Uve the pure-bred Chev- iots. In southern Scotland there are great numbers of them, and they are seen in some of the northern counties of England as well. BLACKFACE MOUNTAIN RAM. 4 CHEVIOT RAM. 1 ■intentional s econd exposure jt,\t,jt HEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OX SCHEDULE K. student of breeding and has produced many types of sheep, all excel- lent in their way, while some have wonderful value. ^ -„ -.- u The following is a brief description of the leadmg breeds of Britisii origin: THE BLACK-FACED HIGHLAND SHEEP. These sheep inhabit the high, heather-covered mountains of Scot- land. They are half wild, hving always on their own special hills, belonging with the land and passing with the land under change of tenants. They have nearly the instincts of the deer, eat heather and grass, and are better suited to the mountains on which they were evolved than any other breed that has been tested there. They fat- ten well, their mutton is good and in demand at prices somewhat above other and larger breeds, their wool is long and coarse and entei-s the markets of the United States under Class III. Blackface sheep are seldom fed either in winter or summer, but live altogether in the open and on the hills. Their lambs are often taken to the lowlands and fed during their first winter, otherwise many of them would perish. The blackface ewe is quite generally bred to a ram of one of the heavier breeds, a Border Leicester or Oxford, or sometimes a Cheviot Shropshire. These crossbred lambs fatten better and attain larger size than the pure-bred blackfaces. If kept on the lowlands the crossbred ewes are often retained and again bred to mutton rams. If they are to go to the heather the pure blackface blood is kept, since these are hardier and thrive better under exposure and poor ''picking" than the crossbreds. Blackface sheep have a number of times been exported to the Umted States and South America, but thus far they have never been quite a success off their native heath. They shear from 3 to 7 pounds per head, depending on sex, age, and condition. The wool is coarse and is largely made into carpets. Considerable blackface wool comes direct to the United States from Scotland, and presumably most of it is there used in carpet manufacture. A small amount is used, mixed with other wools, in making ' ' tAveeds." The ' ' Harris tweeds, made usually on hand looms on islands off the Scottish coast, are in part at least woven from this wool. SCOTCH CROSSBREDS. In Scotland, in the lower lying land and in the foothills, are great Bumbers of crossbreds. These are usually sheep havmg a mixture of Cheviot and Leicester or Border Leicester blood. They are more or less of a Cheviot type, and are sheep of medium size, with good forms, hardy, prolific, readily fattened on grass or with gram, and profitable in their region. While these sheep are commonly tenned "crossbreds'' yet very often they are a true type, well fixed. They produce a type of wool used in making " cheviot " cloths. 1 he libers of this wool are from 3 inches to 5 inches long. The wool varies con- siderably in different districts, but is of such repute that it is bought from year to year by British manufacturers to be made mto high- €*lftss tw^eeds Coming southward, we find the hills where five the pure-bred Chev- iots. In southern Scotland there are great numbers of them, and they are seen in some of the northern counties of England as well. BLACKFACE MOUNTAIN RAM, CHEVIOT RAM. BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 445 P They are a medium-sized sheep, hardy, good to fatten on grass, and produce a soft wool of 3 to 4 inch staple used in making cheviot cloths. The breed is not at all in use in South America and little in the United States. THE LONGWOOLS. There are a number of breeds in Great Britain producing what may be termed "long wool." This is not a wool-trade term, but is used as a classification for the sheep. The principal breeds are Leicester, Lincoln, Cotswold, and Ronmey Marsh, or Kent. The Leicester is one of the oldest of improved breeds in England, a large sheep, standing well up, with white face and legs, as have all the longwools, and are easily fattened. The Leicester has a long, lustrous (shining), curling wool, often 12 inches in length. It is a coarse wool, but is used for ladies' dress goods, braids, linings, bright serges, etc. The Leicester is notable chiefly for what its blood has done, mingled with that of other breeds, to make the Border Leicester of Scotland, to help make the Romney Marsh, and perhaps to mingle with the Lincoln, though not in recent years. At present the Lei- cester is not so often seen in Great Britain or elsewhere as some of the other longwools. -It is worth mentioning, however, that, mingled with blood of Soissonnais merino in France, the Leicester has created the one breed of true and fixed type having blood of both merino and Enghsh sheep, the Dishley menno, the prevaiHng mutton sheep of France and one of the best types of mutton sheep in the world. Leicesters have been in great use in Canada and to some extent on our own ranges of the West. At present they are overshadowed by other breeds of similar character. THE COTSWOLD. A sheep much like the Leicester, large of size, splendidly fleeced with wool not so lustrous as that of the Lincoln, the Cotswold is in considerable use in the western part of the United States for cross- breeding on grade merino ewes. The result of this cross is good, as the lambs are large and fatten readily, and the crossbred wool is abundant and of good quality. Utah and other western ranges have many Cotswold and Cotswold crossbred sheep. Many Cotswold rams are exported from Canada and England for use in the western United States. The breed has been a useful one in the United States and is doubtless destined to find a continued field of usefulness in its peculiar work of crossbreeding with range merinos. THE LINCOLN. The Lincoln is one of the largest of sheep, perhaps the largest sheep in the world. It is very heavuy wooled. The wool is long, often 12 inches or more, and is lustrous and shining. It is used for ladies' dress goods, bright serges, braids, etc., and for coarse goods. The lincom pure bred has a beautiful fleece, too coarse for any but a rather limited ran^e of uses, and its great and special field is cross- breeding with merino flocks in South America, Australasia, and other parts of the sheep-breeding world. In South America especiallv is there a great demand for Lincoln rams. The South Americans have paid frequently as high as $5,000 II 446 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SOHEDUI/E K. I each and even as much as $6,000 for a ram. There are immense flocks of pure-bred Lincolns in Argentina and Uruguay whose rams are produced for distribution to the estancias. There are also estancias with many thousands of crossbreds of so high a grade that they are practically pure-bred Lincobis. ^^ . , ^ . . The Lincoln is not bred much in the Umted States east of the range country, but many Lmcolns are in use on the western ranches. It is maintained that the mingling of Lincoln and menno blood results in sheep shearing the heaviest possible chps of the most desirable wool. THE ROMNEY MARSH. Sheep in Great Britain are very local in their placing. Romneys come prmcipally from Kent. The "marshes" are not wet lands, though low lying and often kept dry by pumping. The "marsh breed has been developed on these rich, drained pastures. As a rule Romney Marsh sheep fatten on grass alone. This fact, no doubt, is one of the potent factors in their reputed hardmess and desu-ability in crossbreeding with sheep on the ranges of South America and the farms of New Zealand. , . . ., ., t • i x -^ The Romney Marsh breed is similar to the Lmcoln, not quite so massive, and with fleece not so long or wool so lustrous. Still it is a type of wool much liked in Germany, and German wool buyers m South America always favor it. The Romney crossbred wools, from grade merino ewes, are especially liked on the Continent. More and more use of Romney rams ia made m Tierra del t uego, Patagonia, Argentina, Uruguay, and other South American regions. In New Zealand these sheep are also popular, and Romney ranas are sent in considerable numbers from that country to Patagoma. South American buyers have paid large sums for Romney rams. In the United States the Romney Marsh breed has only recently obtained a slender foothold. , . , , • x i • It is said of the Romney Marsh sheep that it bears heavier stocking on the land than most other breeds, endures cold and wet better, fattens without grain, on grass alone, and that the result of crossing Romney rams on grade merino ewes is to give a crossbred fleece smiilar to that of the crossbred Lincoln, very useful and of good weight. OTHER TYPES OF LONGWOOLS. There are, in lesser numbers, in Great Britain various types of longwool sheep— the Devons, Dartmoors, Irish lowlands, lonks, Wenslydales, and others. They do not need description here as, although some of them are found in small numbers outside their native habitat, none of them enters largely mto the worid's wool pro- duction. THE DOWNS. The mutton sheep of the worid, par excellence, are the Downs. These are spread all over central and southern England, and are seen also wherever English-speaking men have gone. Downs have usually brown, gray, or black faces (the Ry elands are white faced), brown or black legs, and wool of moderate length, rather fine, soft, and useful for hosiery, flannels, and in its longer types for cloth. COTSWOLD SHEARLING RAM. OXFORD DOWN RAM. INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE 446 BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. each, and even as much as $6,000 for a ram. There are immense flocks of pure-bred Lincolns in Argentma and Uruguay whose rams are produced for distribution to the estancias. There are also estancias with many thousands of crossbreds of so high a grade that they are practically pure-bred Lincolns. ^^ . , ^ . . The Lincoln is not bred much in the United States east of the range country, but many Lincolns are in use on the western ranches. It is maintained that the mingling of Lincoln and merino blood results in sheep shearing the heaviest possible clips of the most desirable wool. THE ROMNEY MARSH. Sheep in Great Britain are verv local in their placmg. Romneys come principally from Kent. The "marshes" are not wet lands, though low lying and often kept dry by pumping. The "marsh" breed has been developed on these rich, drained pastures. As a rule Romney Marsh sheep fatten on grass alone. This fact, no doubt, is one of the potent factors in their reputed hardiness and desirabihty in crossbreeding with sheep on the ranges of South America and the farms of New Zealand. i t • i The Romney Marsh breed is similar to the Lmcoln, not quite so massive, and with fleece not so long or wool so lustrous. Still it is a type of wool much liked in Germany, and German wool buyers in South America always favor it. The Ronmey crossbred wools, from grade merino ewes, are especially liked on the Continent. More and more use of Romney rams is made in Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia, Argentina, Uruguay, and other South American regions. In New Zealand these sheep are also popular, and Romney rams are sent in considerable numbers from that country to Patagoma. South American buyers have paid large sums for Romney rams. In the United States the Romney Marsh breed has only recently obtained a slender foothold. • ^ i • It is said of the Romney Marsh sheep that it bears heavier stockmg on the land than most other breeds, endures cold and wet better, fattens without grain, on grass alone, and that the result of crossing Romney rams on grade merino ewes is to give a crossbred fleece similar to that'of the crossbred Lincoln, very useful and of good weight. OTHER TYPES OF LONGWOOLS. There are, in lesser numbers, in Great Britain various types of longwool sheep— the Devons, Dartmoors, Irish lowlands, lonks, Wenslydales, and others. They do not need description here as, although some of them are found in small numbers outside their nativehabitat, none of them enters largely into the world's wool pro- duction. THE DOWNS. The mutton sheep of the world, par excellence, are the Downs. These are spread all over central and southern England, and are seen also wherever English-speaking men have gone. Downs have usually brown, gray, or black faces (the Ryelands are white faced), brown or black legs, and wool of moderate length, rather fine, soft, and useful for hosiery, flannels, and in its longer types for cloth. %>^' '%1X COTSWOLD SHEARLING RAM. OXFORD DOWN RAM. samm KMHMi ma BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. TCTt i Some of the shorter Down wools are blended into cheviot fabrics. The Southdown and Suffolk sheep have wools of the finest fiber of any in England. Each is a short staple. THE SOUTHDOWN. This is one of the oldest breeds in England and one of the purest, and is one of the few not made up by a combination of other breeds. Southdowns are small, rotund, beautifully formed, easily fattened sheep well known in America. Southdown mutton is the standard of the world. Southdown wool is of high quality, though somewhat lacking in quantity. No sheep fattens more easily or makes better mutton. The Southdown holds its own in England and in the eastern States of America. Because of its light shearmg it has not become a favorite with woolgrowers. The Southdown has helped markedly in producing other breeds, notably the Shropshire, Hampshire, and probably to some extent the Oxford Down. Southdowns at present contribute a comparatively small part of the wool of the world. THE SUFFOLK. The Suffolk, although similar to the Southdown, is larger and has an especially black head and legs. It is readily fattened. Suffolk lambs fatten quickl^r on grass with a httle grain. Southdowns and Suffolks alike are ouite generally grown on grass in England, though in hurdles the lambs may find extra food. The wool of the Suffolk is short, fine, and good, but it is not a heavy shearing sheep. This fact, perhaps, has militated against its extended introduction into the United States. The Southdown is seen to some extent in South America, the Suffolk little if at all. A sheep similar and with us more in use is THE HAMPSHIRE. The Hampshire is one of the largest of the Downs. It is a lai^e- boned, squarely built sheep, with black head and legs, native to tke region about Salisbury, and having spread over more or less of south central England. Hampshu-es in England are nearly always kept in hurdles or yards made with movable fencing. These are moved daily. By this means the sheep have always clean, fresh pasturage. They are hurdled on sown crops, clovers, vetches, turnips, or grass. With Hampshires it IS the more rapid growth and early development of the lamb that brings the profit. Everything is done with reference to the lamb. A hurdle newly placed wm first be occupied by the lambs, which enter It through narrow opemngs or '' creeps." The ewes eat at "second table, or on a spot where the lambs fed the previous day. The lambs are also highlv fed with grain or "cake" (American Unseed or cotton- seed meal cake, usuallv). Thus forced the lambs make exceedingly rapid growth and early become very fat. From time to time the fattest are taken out and sent away to market. The ewes, too, are fattened while yet in their prime and sent to market. Usually they bear only three or four crops of lambs. Hampshires, Southdowns, Dorsets, some Oxfords, Suffolks, and Shropshires are handled thus in hurdles. Sheep grazed in hurdles have no shelter and in winter 448 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. their chief food is turnips, eaten more or less where they grow though if it is very wet turnips may be pulled and shced and red to tnem. This is the famous '^hurdling system" of England. It is done on a peculiar type of soil, inclined to be sandy or chalky and of very mod- erate fertility, but by means of the manure dropned on the land extraordinary crops are secured, as hidi as 40 to 50 bushels of wheat and from 60 to 85 bushels of oats to the acre. A somewhat similar system of management is seen in J ranee, varied bv use a part of the time of immense sheep bams Sheep barns are not used to any great extent in England. The Hampshire and its treatment is mentioned thus fully because a knowledge of the hur- dUng system is essential to any comprehension of the sheep husbandry of En^and. By means of sheep and their manures immense areas of English soil are made very productive which without this manage- ment would be little more than wastes. The Hampshnre is unportant to us in America, too, because there is use for a considerable number of Hampshire rams on our western ranges to niake crossbred lambs tor the butchers. There is, perhaps, no better breed than this for that purpose, provided the lambs are well fed from the tune of birth, l^is a breed that needs good care and feed. Hampslnre wool is a desu-able wool and Hampshire crossbred wool, from menno foundations, is desirable, although not so long as the Lincoln crossbred wool. Ihe wool of the Hampshire sheep brings near the top p^e m England (27 to 28 cents per pound, fleece washed, December, 191 o;. ine Hampshire is not a sheep developed with especial thought of wool pro- duction, but noted for its ability to produce good mutton cheaply and abundantly. It is a made breed, of comparatively recent origin, one of its component parts being the Southdown, and the character of its wool is not unfike that of the Southdown, though coarser. In England Southdown wool usually outsells Hampshire wool about 2 cents per pound. THE OXFOBD DOWN. Somewhat like the Hampshire Down is the Oxford, a large sheep, of strong bone and good feeding powers but with a loiter fleece than the ETampshire. There is an infusion of long-wool blooJ m the Oxford sheep. This accounts for the character of the wooL It is a sneep quitr largely used in cross breeding. In Scotland Oxford rams on Cheviot ancl other types of ewes seem to give exceUent results. In America, too, the Oxford ram on the ranges gives ^^rossbreds that are desimble both for wool and mutton. Aside from the greater length of the wool there is much similanty between the Oxford and HaSipshire breeds, so that what has been s^id of the Hampf ires may be taken to apply rather closely to the Oxford sheep. It will no doubt play an important part in the development of our western sheep mdustry. THE SHROPSHIRE. This also is a Down, or so classed— America's favorite of all the British types. It is a composite breed beanng the blood of the Southdo^and of other breecfs, but so perfectly are the bloods blended to-day that the Shropshire is a type to itself. Shropshire sheep^^^ the most widely distrTbut^d of the English breeds. They are claimed to be the great ''farm sheep" of the worid--a rare combination of wool and mutton. It is a prolific teeed, easily f attenisd, and beanng SOUTHDOWN SHEARLING RAM. SHROPSHIRE 2 SHEAR RAM. ■intentional second exposure 448 KEPORT OF TAHIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. their chief food is turnips, eaten more or less where they grow, though if it is very wet turnips may be pulled and sliced and fed to them. This is the f amousj ' Imrdhng system" of England. It is done on a pecuHar type of soil, inclined to be sandy or chalky and of very mod- erate fertility, but by means of the manure dropped on the and extraordinary crops are secured, as high as 40 to 50 bushels of wheat and from 60 to 85 bushels of oats to the acre. A somewhat similar system of management is seen m France, varied by use a part of the time of immense sheep barns. Sheep barns are not used to any great extent in England. The Hampshire and its treatment is mentioned thus fully because a knowledge of the hur- dling system is essential to any comprehension of the slieep husbandry of England. By means of sheep and their manures immense areas of English soil are made very productive which without this manage- ment would be little more than wastes. The Hampshire is important to us in America, too, because there is use for a considerable number of Hampshire rams on our western ranges to make crossbred lambs for the butchers. There is, perhaps, no better breed than this for that purpose, provided the lambs are well fed from the tune of birth. 1^ js a breed that needs good care and feed. Hampshire wool is a desirable wool and Hampshire crossbred wool, from merino foundations, is desirable, although not so long as the Lincoln crossbred wool. Iho wool of the Hampshire sheep brings near the top price in England (27 to 28 cents per pound, fleece washed, December, 1910). Ihe Hampshire is not a sheep developed with especial thought of wool pro- duction, but noted for its ability to produce good mutton cheaply and abundantly. It is a made breed, ot comparatively recent origin, one of its component parts being the Southdown, and the character of its wool is not unfike that of the Southdown, though coarser. In England Southdown wool usually outsells Hampshire wool about 2 cents per pound. THE OXFORD DOWN. Somewhat like the Hampshire Down is the Oxford, a large sheep, of strong bone and good feeding powers, but with a longer fleecy than the Hampshire. There is an infusion of long-wool blood m the Oxford sheep. This accounts for the character of the wool. It is a sneep quite largely used in cross breeding. In Scotland Oxford rams on Cheviot and other types of ewes seem to give excellent results. In America, too, the Oxford ram on the ranges gives crossbreds that are desirable both for wool and mutton. Aside from the greater lenc'th of the wool there is much similarity between the Oxford and Hampshire breeds, so that what has been s«iid of the Hampshires may be taken to apply rather closely to the Oxford sheep. It wUl no doubt play an important part in the development of our western sheep mdustry. THE SHROPSHIRE. This also is a Down, or so classed— America's favorit^ of all the British types. It is a composite breed, bearing the blood of the Southdown and of other breeds, but so perfectly are the bloods blended to-day that the Shropshire is a type to itself. Shropshire sheep are the most widely distributed of the English breeds. They are clauned to be the great "farm sheep" of the world— a rare combination of wool and mutton. It is a prolific breed, easily fattened, and bearing SOUTHDOWN SHEARLING RAM. SHROPSHIRE 2 SHEAR RAM. ,.":*« REPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 449 ill a fairly heavy fleece of good down wool, moderately fine. Shropshires are the most common of the English breeds in North America and are seen to some extent in South America and Australia and New Zealand. In the United States the Shropshire is used as a farm sheep, is found ihrout^hout all the region of the *'corn belt," as well as in the Atlantic Coast^'States, on western ranches, and in the Canadian Province of Ontario. THE DORSET. The Dorset is a sheep of medium size, ranging to large; native to- i outhern England. It is a horned white-faced sheep, with a fine close wool, somewLat similar in character to the wool of the Southdown. The especial feature of the Dorset breed is its fecundity and early lambing habit, which makes it a favorite breed for production of early fat lambs. At home it is quite generally seen in hurdles, though ewes may be run on grass. Dorsets may lamb in December or earker and, being large milkers, make their lambs fat in midwinter or early spring. The special field of the Dorset is to produce lambs that go to butchers direct from their mothers' sides. In the United States the Dorset is found chiefly in the Eastern and Central States among early lamb growers. Some Dorset rams have been used in cross breeding with merinos, the result being a hardy and prolific offspring. The Dorset is being used experimentally in Austraha in cross breeding on merinos to make freezing lambs for export, with good results. The bloods of the Dorset and the merino seem to blend well. OTHER ENGLISH BREEDS. Almost every county of England has its own peculiar breed. Of these local types the Welsh sheep are perhaps the most important numerically. Their wools make the famous Welshpool flannels. The Wenslydale is of the Leicester type ; so is the Devon longwool more or less. The Hardwick is a mountain breed with a hairy wool; the Exmoor, a small horned sheep, very hardy and good for its environ- ment; the Kerry Hill, a breed from the hills of the Welsh border; the Irish mountain sheep, with a short soft wool suitable for hosiery; and the Shetland, with a similar wool. None of these breeds has become at all common in the United States. ENGLISH CROSSES POPULAR IN THE UNITED STATES. Americans, mth characteristic enterprise, have bought liberally for many vears — and are still buying — fine specimens of the breeds which have worked such wonders in British agriculture. What the English had done our farmers believ-ed they also could do, but not all have succeeded. Many have failed in various parts of the United States to handle profitably the English breeds in their purity; but for crossbreeding tliey are now proved to be invaluable. They are the product of a cocu and equable cHmate; the highly specialized product of a land where rich grasses or succulent forage is never lackmg; the product of a system of close handling such as has no real counterpart upon the farms and ranches of our own country; a class of animals, the pride and boast of a race of men with whom the art of careful shep- heraing is hereditary. Bred locally for generations with certain varia- 32080'*— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 29 450 BEPOHT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. \ tions of type, each apparently is best adapted in its pure-bred form to some particolar soil or elevation that claims it for its own. The wondei-ful Lincolns are only at their very best in Lincolnshire. They cross successfully in New Zealand and Argentina with the merinos, and some purely bred flocks do well in those countries. They and their relatives, the Cotswolds, are much hked also in some parts of the United States, but it seems essential that importations of fresh blood from the mother country be made at frequent intervals in order to maintain the requisite weight of carcass and the desired degree of • luster and length of staple. The Shropshire and other Downs, under conditions not so favorable as those under wliich they have been developed in their native land, lose something of their size and quahty in exposed or arid situations. ( So far, therefore, as the great wool-growing sections of the West are concerned, there is no such thing as dupMcating British conditions or British methods. The following statement on the cost of raising sheep in Great Britain, the various kinds of forage fed, and the methods of handling sheep has been prepared at the request of the Tariff Board by one of the highest authorities on English sheep husbandry. COST OF SHEEP MAN^AOEMENT IN GREAT BRITAIN. ''No attempt has ever been made to arrive at the average rental value of land principally devoted to sheep in any part of the United Kingdom. Only approximate figures can be supphed, based on knowledge as to what is actually paid, but the issue is obscured by several overlapping considerations, such as — I ''(1) The occurrence of tracts of high-hing and unproductive land which are lumped together with the more productive soil. Thus in the case of Hignland sheep farms, a rent of say 3d. (6 cents) per acre gives no adequate idea as to the actual value. It may include areas of water or what is called ''black'' land, or mountain sides partly covered with rocks. 1 "(2) In the more favored districts of England, Wales, and Scotland grain growing and sheep farming are carried on simultaneously, and rent is looked iipon as a charge upon one or the other branch according to the objects for wliich each is maintained. If mostly as a means oi keeping up the fertihty of the land, the sheep may be regarded as an mevitable charge and the cheapest method of manuring grain crops. The rent or such land varies within wide limits, according to its natural quahties, but over extensive tracts of the Upper Chalk and Colitic limestones many large arable sheep farms are held at rents of 5s. ($1.22) per acre, more or less. A good farm may cost lOs. ($2.43) per acre, tithe free, but anything above this amount would be con- sidered as representing land of distinctly good quality. Certainly 15s. ($3.65) per acre woind probably include sporting rights and other residential and local advantage. "(3) In the numerous districts in which sheep are important, but at the same time are only a part of a mixed stock, including it may be a large herd of cows, the rent may approach or even ^e£ceed £1 per acre, but such cases are not of much value in arriving at an answer to the question as to the average rent on sheep land. HAMPSHIRE DOWN RAM. f \ DORSET HORN RAM, INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE 450 BEPORT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. tions of typOj each apparently is best adapted in its pure-bred form to some particular soil or elevation that claims it for its own. The wonderful Lincolns are only at their very best in Lincolnshire. They cross successfully in New Zealand and Argentina with the merinos, and some purely bred flocks do well in those countries. They and their relatives, the Cotswolds, are much liked also in some parts of the United States, but it seems essential that importations of fresh blood from the mother country be made at frequent intervals in order to maintain the requisite weight of carcass and the desired degree of • luster and length of staple. The Shropshire and other Downs, under conditions not so favorable as those under which they have been developed in their native land, lose something of their size and quahty in exposed or arid situations. I So far, therefore, as the great wool-growing sections of the West are concerned, there is no such thing as duplicating British conditions or British methods. ' The following statement on the cost of raising sheep in Great Britain, the various kinds of forage fed, and the methods of handling sheep has been prepared at the request of the Tariff Board by one of the highest authorities on Enghsh sheep husbandry. COST OF SHEEP MANAGEMENT IN GREAT BRITAIN. ''No attempt has ever been made to arrive at the average rental value of land principally devoted to sheep in any part of the United Kingdom. Only approximate figures can be supplied, based on knowledge as to what is actually paid, but the issue is obscured by several overlapping considerations, such as— i "(1) The occurrence of tracts of high-lying and unproductive land which are lumped together with the more productive soil. Thus in the case of Ilignland sheep farms, a rent of say 3d. (6 cents) per acre gives no adequate idea as to the actual value. It may include areas of water or what is called ''black" land, or mountain sides partly covered with rocks. i "(2) In the more favored districts of England, Wales, and Scotland grain growing and sheep farming are carried on simultaneously, and rent is looked upon as a charge upon one or the other branch according to the objects for wldch each is maintained. If mostly as a means of keeping up the fertility of the land, the sheep may be regarded as an inevitable charge and the cheapest method of manuring grain crops. The rent or such land varies within wide limits, according to its natural c|ualities, but over extensive tracts of the Upper Chalk and Colitic limestones many large arable sheep farms are held at rents of 5s. ($1.22) per acre, more or less. A good farm may cost 10s. ($2.43) per acre, tithe free, but anytliing above this amount would be con- sidered as representing land of distinctly good quality. Certainly ISs. ($3.65) per acre would probably include sporting rights and other residential and local advantage. "(3) In the numerous districts in wliich sheep are important, but at the same time are onlv a part of a mixed stock, including it may be a large herd of cows, the rent may approach or even exceed £1 per acre, but such cases are not of much value in arriving at an answer to the question as to the average rent on sheep land. HAMPSHIRE DOWN RAM. DORSET HORN RAM. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 451 "In the matter of HigWand sheep-farm rents, the custom is so general of fixing the rent by a charge of so much per head on the sheep which the farm is capable of maintaining, that the rental per acre can harcUy be deduced by calculation. Thus in the case of one representative sheep farm the rent is £300 for a tract estimated to carry 46 scores of ewes and 12 scores of ''hoggets," equahng 1,160 sheep, which works out to a rent of 5s. 2d. ($1.26) per sheep. For purely sheep farms carrying ordinary blackface ewes the rents average about 2s. (49 cents) per ewe; but considerably more would be paid where good Cheviots can be grazed; 4s. to 7s. (97 cents to $1.70) per ewe being given by some large farmers in Southerlandshire. It would be misleacSng to reduce such rents to a per acre standard, as not only are the areas extremely extensive and perhaps unknown, but also interrupted by unproductive tracts of land and water which ought not to be included. *^The answer to the question as to the average wages paid to ordinary farm laborers who assist in the care of sheep, and the usual range of wages paid to expert shepherds in the case of ordinary commercial flocks, is as follows: ''There does not appear to be any material difference between the wages of farm laborers sent to assist the regular shepherds, and other laborers, except that of Sunday wages when attendance is necessary on that day. The ordinary winter wages of farm laborers range from 12s. to 14s. ($2.92 to $3.41) a week, but summer wages are much higher, and approximate to double these amounts in hay time and harvest. Piecework also enables good men to increase the ordinary or winter daily rate of payment very considerably. A laborer attending sheep seven days a week would not be content with less than 14s. ($3.41) in winter. His services would scarcely be required, however, during the period of higher wages, as the regular shepherd and liis helpers ought then to be able to attend upon the sheep without such help. "As to shepherds' wages over large areas, the average shepherd's pay is assumed to be 2s. (49 cents) "above the men," with the addition of a free house and certain perquisites which belong to his position. The arrangements with shepherds vary considerably in different districts, but the following schedule of payment is in opera- tion over large areas on farms in Wilts, Hants, Dorset, Berks, and contiguous counties: "Standing wages per week 14s. ($3.41), per annum £36 ($175.19). Free house and garden (often valued at Is. (24 cents) per week), per annum £2 12s. ($12.65). Extra fee for lambing time, per annum £1 ($4.87) ; Id. (2 cents) for everv lamb weaned, say, 600 per annum, £2 10s. ($12.16).. "An additional shilling (24 cents) for every double couple or twins weaned, say, 100 per annum, £5 ($24.33). One bushel of meal per day, per annum, 3s. (73 cents). Extra wages for shearing, cUpping, etc., often meaning double daily pay over 10 days, at 2e. 4d. (57 cents), per annum £1 ($4.87). "Totals per annum, £48 13s. ($236.75), the equivalent of 18s. 18id. ($4.69) per week. "In answer to your inquiry as to the ran^e of value of forage con- sumed by sheep, it is obvious that this is a difficult matter to discuss 452 bi:poet of tariff board ox schedule k. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 453 satisfactorily, because the positive as well as the comparative values of forage are eminently dependent on the season, and this to a greater degree than might appear at first sight. Take roots as an example. In some seasons tney may be had for the asking, the growers being only too glad to have them eaten upon the ground, while in other years they command various nrices, ranging from Id. (2 cents) to 4d. (8 cents) per head per week where grazed. Cases might be cited in wliich 9d. (18 cents) per head per week has been given in England, and prices up to £11 ($53.53) have been given in Scotland per acre for good swedes. It is the same with sunmier fodder, although to a less degree. When grass is abundant and requires grazing, it is difficult to assess it at a commercial figure, and Id. (2 cents) per week per head would be a good price. When "keep" is generally abundant, it is difficult to find customers at any price, and the farmer who has no stock of his own and trusts to leasing his **keep" often finds himself in a difficult position. This problem affects the general question of the costs of Keeping sheep, which can not weU m approached upon the basis of the commercial value of the natural foods, purchased foods being much easier to deal with. This applies to hay as well as to roots, and to green fodder as much as to straw, the stock farmer sometimes grudging his stock food, which would command a high price if sold, and at other times being thankful that he has mouths to eat it. These fluctua- tions are so wide and so short-lived that it is difficult to arrive at standard figures as to the actual value of any particular class of forage. The usual range of values is to some degree shown in the above remarks, but not in a way to satisfv the statistician. The subject is too complicated to have enlisted the interest of farmers in this countrv, and few attempts have been made to arrive at the com- mercial value of different forage crops in the order of their merits. Such a task would be viewed as impracticable. StiU, relative values may be profitably discussed, and a few remarks may be made upon this aspect of forage values. The estimation in which various kmds of fodder are held may be expressed by brief statements as follows; "Young grass is superior to hay off the same land. "All fodder crops are at their best when coming into bloojn. "Straw possesses considerable feeding properties if cut early. "Keally good early cut oat straw is equal to inferior hay. "^Vhite turnips are equal to or superior to swedes in autumn. "Swedes are superior to turnips alter Christmas. "Mangel-wurzel is superior to swedes after the end of March. "Ka|>e is an unrivaled summer fodder for sheep. "White mustard is regarded as a maintenance rather than as a fattening food. "Rye, winter barley, and winter oats are viewed as stop gaps to fill up periods when more staple foods are scarce or late. "Samfoin is highly regarded by all shepherds as possessing quali- ties peculiar to itself, conducive to the health of the flocks. "Lucerne is less widely grown than sainfoin, but is increasing in popularity. "Rye grass (Italian and perennial) is good when young, but innu- tritious when once shot out into ear. "All grasses should be closely grazed, and not allowed to flower or seed. t ]^' "Changes of fodder during each day are recommended, and the system is largely followed; thus sheep are shifted from a night fold on rye or vetches onto water meadow, rape, cabbage, or clover, ac- cording to the season, with great advantage. "Keeping sheep on one description of fodder for several days to- gether IS not considered to be good management and this alone renders it difficult to value the corps separately. "Swedes, mangels, or cabbages are often scattered among green fodder crops according to the season, in order to give a variety of "Mixed fodder crops, such as turnips and rape, swedes and rape, kale and swedes, vetches and winter oats, and mixed ''seeds,'' are often preferred to pure cultures of single plants. "The character and quahty of the land has more effect upon the feeding value of any fodder crop than its specific character. Sheep and cattle will graze some plants of a field closely, and leave other herbage, although of the best species, absolutely neglected on other portions. " The feeding value of roots also depends to a large degree upon the soil and situation upon wliich they are produced. " In the face of so many confficting tendencies it would be mere pedantry to attempt to place forage qrops in order of merit. Analysis fails, because it must be based on typical cases, and the difference in actual value of esteemed and accredited forage crops if tabulated are not great, wliile they are seriously affected by the soil and the climate, the age and stage of the plant, and its comparative abimdance or scarcity at a particular tune. Market prices are apparently con- trolled by the demand more than by the intrinsic value of any kind of forage. It is notorious that the price of a particular commodity will rise to an absurd height only because it can be obtained with difficulty, even though another commodity could easily be sub- stituted in its place. " The subject of the average cost of maintaining sheep per head m England and Scotland is intimately connected with the foregoing problems and is equally difficult to reduce to a definite statement. The fact that the rents of Scottish sheepwalks are based upon the head of sheep, and amount in many cases to 5s. ($1.22) per head, is an indication at least that the cost is not very high, for if food and shep- herding were deducted from total costs the remainder would be smaU. From 6s. ($1.46) to 8s. ($1.95) for the entire winter are common prices given for wintering t^s both in Scotland and England, includ- mg hay, roots, and shepherding — that is, except for losses and interest on capital such figures represent the principal costs during some 22 weeks, or from 3d. (6 cents) to 4id. (9 cents) per week. There are also other ways of arriving at the cost of keep, for in most years sum- mer grazing can be arranged for on a basis of from Id. (2 cents) per head per week to sHghtly over that sum. Roots also, if the owner supplies cake, corn, and hay, can be obtained free, or in times of scarcity at Id. (2 cents) to 2d. (4 conts) per head per week. Calcu- lations as to the costs of natural food, excluding hay, taking one year with another, have often been based upon la. per head per week throughout the year, or 4s. 4d. ($1.05) per annum, but the remaining costs, even after this moderate commencement, total up to a rather formidable sum. It may be assumed that 1 acre of yoots costs £5 1 % 454 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 455 ($24.33) to produce, half of which may not unreasonably be charged to the sheep consuming them, and half to the benefits wliich the land receiyes through their consumption. Now, if, as is often the case, an acre of roots maintains 300 sneep for one week this is 2d. (4 -cents) per head per week. Summer keep is much cheaper, and probably under Id. (2 cents). Any error as regards such estimates becomes less important when the remaining expenses are added. These are as follows: Shepherding, washing, shearing, marking, etc., losses from death and accidents, interest on capital, marketing and commissions, artificial foods, hay, and ram service. A shepherd will look after 500 sheep, but requires assistance at lambing and other busy seasons. In winter he requires almost constant help, and in satisfaction of this claim a charge of half as much again is added to the shepherd's wages, bringing the labor up to £73 ($355.25) (see estimate of shep- herd's wage), which, divided over 500 head, comes to 2s. lid. (71 cents) per head, or, say, 3s. (73 cents). Shearing costs 3s. 6d. (85 cents) per score, or about 2d. (4 cents) per head; and other incidentals, such as washing, marking, fly powder, etc., may be put at Id. (2 cents). The losses from death vary, but are often taken at one to the score, or 5 per cent on an average value, it may be of £1 ($4.87) or more. If this figure is accepted there is another Is. (24 cents) per head to add. Interest on capital might be thpught to be an unnecessary charge, because profits are really interest. But as capital must be found, another 5 per cent on the average valuation entails another shipping. Marketing and the usual commissions and costs of driving are taken at 2i per cent on the same amount, or 6d. (12 cents) per nead. "Artificial foods ought to increase the gross return and thus balance the extra expense incurred. If 5s. ($1.22) per head is spent on cake, the sheep or lambs ought to be that much more valuable, and hence it is optional whether it is charged or not. It does not affect the balance and may be thought to be paid for both by the sheep and in the land. Hay, however, is different, because it is not included in the estimate of Id. (2 cents) or 2d. (4 cents) per week for natural food. A sheep will consume at least 1 pound in weight per head per day for 5 months from December to April, or 21 weeks, and with waste, which it is impossible to entirely prevent, H hundredweight, or a value of 4s. 6d. ($1.09) will be spent, or another Id. (2 cents) per week calculated over the year. Kam service may easily cost 2s. 6d. (61 cents) per ewe, but ought to be charged on the lambs, as it is only incurred for breeding flocks. We are now in a position to bring together these various items in order to see at a glance the cost of maintaining a sheep or ewe for one year. Cost of tnaintaining a ^iheep or ewe for o)ie year. Bare cost of natural herbage and roots 4 4=$1. 05 Shepherding 3 ..= .73 Other incidental labor expense 1= .02 Shearing 2= .04 Losses from death and accidents. 1 1 ..= .24 Interest on an average value of £1 per head 1 ..= .24 Marketing and eommiasions 6= .12 Artificial food omitted for reasons given in text = Hay... 4 6= 1.09 Total 14 7= 3.53 L I ) "As ewes are kept for breeding, this amount after deducting the value of the fleece, remains as debt upon the lambs. Accordiug to a result obtained in 1910, 5 pounds of unwashed wool, at 9ia. (19 cents), represented the average weight of fleeces over a large flock, i. e., 3s. 11 id. (96 cents), say 4s. (97 cents), which leaves the cost of the owe to be handed onto her lamb or lambs at 10s. 7d. ($2.57). The lamb therefore arrives, if a single, with a debt of 10s. 7d. ($2.57), or of 5s. S^d. ($1.29) if twins are produced. For purposes of compu- tation we assume the middle figure of 7s. lljd. ($1.92), although it is a sanguine estimate. Lambs, however, require feeding and attend- ance, and are subject to mortality to a greater degree than older sheep. The lamb's food is generally allowed for by an extra charge on the ewes with lambs at Id. (2 cents), or 2d. (4 cents) per week (extra) when with their dams, which may be for 15 weeks. After weaning, lambs cost as much as ewes, for if they eat less, lamb keep is choicer than ewe keep. They do not receive much hay, it is true ; but as tliis has been charged on the ewes, it can be omitted. Neither are pampered or forced lambs considered in this connection, because such lambs command a much higher price and probably pay well for extra indulgence (see above). The schedule of costs for a lamb sold on the 15th of September is, therefore, made up as follows: 8. d. Debt on lamb when bom 7 lli=$l. 92* Cost of ram service, one lamb to each ewe (see note) 2 6 = .61 Natural food Id. per week for five months 1 9^= .44 Total 12 2i= 2.97 " It will be noticed that the ewe account is balanced and carried forward, so that the figure of 12s. 2f d. ($2.97) represents the cost of maintaining a ewe and her progeny for one year, sinking the wool. "It is asked to suggest the fair approxirnate proportionate return per annum for sales of sheep and lambs against sales of wool. In the case of a breeding flock the draft ewes may be left out of the calcu- lation if all the lambs are sold. The annual draft is replaced by ewe lambs which are of about the same value as cull ewes, this assump- tion simplifying the calculation. The sale value of lambs in English sheep districts in September which have not received cake or com may be assessed at 20s. ($4.87), which leaves a profit of 7s. 9Jd. ($1.89) per ewe kept. As lambs are rarely shorn, and the custom is scarcely one to be encouraged, the proportion between the sale of lambs per head and that of wool is as £1 ($4.87) sterling to 4s. (97 cents), i. e.,the wool is one-fifth of the total sales.* The proportion between the value of wool and the total sales is affected by tne weights of the fleeces, and the above estimate is based on Down flocks. The proportion might be different in the case of long wools such as Lincolns. *'The statement has frequently been made that the best shepherds receive the highest wage of any class of farm laborers in Great Britain, and that sheep, on the whole, are the most profitable farm animals maintained by British farmers. "In respect to the first half of this statement it may be true of the highest class of shepherds, capable of turning out prize sheep. They » This allows for barren ewes, and is based on an experience of one lamb weaned for every ewe put to ram. 466 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. often receive part of the prize money and gratuities for the sale of rams or valuable drafts of ewes or of ewe lambs. In ordinary cases shepherds do not receive liigher wages than dairymen, head carters, or foremen. Neither do they make more money than many good men who take piecework throughout the year. It can scarcely be said that shepherds are distinctly higher paid than are the head horsemen or dairj^men of choice studs or herds. It is, however, quite true that shepherds who manage the best flocks have excellent places and have been known to net as much as 50s. ($12.17) per week. "With respect to the second part of the statement it was not at one time far from the truth, but during the last three or four years sheep have been much less profitable than dairy cattle, for instance. Mut- ton has sold badly of late, relatively much below beef or pork, both of which have recently commanded excellent prices." SHEEP m THE DOMINION OF CANADA. In the year 1910 there.were 2,629,781 sheep in the various Canadian Provinces, with an average per capita value of $6.30. Of the total, 1,030,227, or about 40 per cent, are in the Province of Ontario. With the exception of 315,000 head in the two Provinces of Saskatchewan and Alberta, where the general conditions of handling Slieep very closely approximate the range concUtions in the State or Montana, Canadian sheep are handled about the same as are sheep in the States of Ohio, Micliigan, and Pennsylvania. In the 20 years following 1881 cattle, horses, and hogs increased in numbers all over the Dominion, while sheep declined about 17 per cent. Tills falling off is general in all the Provinces, and reports from Canada note this fact and offer various reasons for it. Several causes appear to have operated to aid this dechne. In the early daya sheep were kept on the farms in order to furnish wool for the clothing worn by the farmer and his family. With tlie turning of the natural pastures into fields of wheat and general agriculture products, the farmers found more profit in other domestic animals and gave up sheep as the settlement of the country became closer. Outside of the two western Provinces mentioned, the sheep in the Dominion are aU in small flocks. It is seldom a farmer has more than 20 sheep and the majority of the lots are under that number. The sheep m the eastern Provinces are practically all longwools and po'wns, bred entirely for their mutton-producing qualities. Those in Alberta and Saskatchewan are nearly ail merinos. There are sheep in almost every agricultural district of the Dominion, but as a gener^ tliuig they are looked upon merely as scavengers and weed eat- ers, kept because they will eat out the fence comers and live upon what would sustain no other domestic animal. The eastern Provinces. — Ontario has always been the largest sheep- raising Province of the Dominion. In 18^97 it contained 1,690,351 sheep; in 1906, 1,304,806; and in 1910, 1,030,227, showing a constant falhng off m numbers. This Province is a very good sheep-raising region, with excellent blue-grass pastures, a moderate rainfall, and cold dry winters. It has about the same sheep diseases as the Middle Eastern United States. There are cases of foot rot and intestinal worms, not much scab, but dipping is necessary all over the eastern Provinces to rid the sheep BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 457 of ticks. Winter feeduig is necessary as in our Eastern States, and is confined to hay, oats, and root crops, there being very little corn raised in Canada. A few years ago a great many lambs were fed for the market, over 125,000 being exported to the United States and 33,000 to Great Britain in 1907. This export trade has now dwindled until in 1910 Eractically no Canadian lambs were sent to this country, the fat lambs eing consumed in the Dominion. In the eastern Provinces losses from dogs are very serious and have driven a great many farmers to sell their sheep, just as they have in the Eastern United States. In Nova Scotia figures secured show that the average income from one ewe for a vear from wool and lamb is between $5 and $6. Nova Scotia sheep shear between 5 and 6 pounds, the animals being rather small, with some merino blood. The range Provinces. — In northern Alberta there is a region where the climate and general conditions are similar to those of Ontario and sheep are handled just as in that Province. However, in the southern portion of Alberta and in Saskatchewan the sheep are handled as in Montana. Some hay is put up for winter use if needed, but for the most part the sheep are expected to find their feed on the open ranges through the entire winter. Wages are approximately the same as are paid in the United States, and other general costs of production, dipping, shearing, fencing, etc., are much the same. The Canadian Government has recognized the needs of the sheep owners by setting aside certain areas in these two Provinces exclu- sively for sheep, thus avoiding range complications such as have been the source of trouble in the western Umted States. Here in these two Provinces there is some merino blood kept just as it is in the United States, to hold the vigor and constitution of the ewes in the flocks, but the rams used are generally of the mutton breeds. These sheep average between 6 and 8 pounds of wool per year and prices received for it are about the same as in the United States. There is some scab, some loss from poisonous plants and wild animals. The wool clip. — ^The Canadian wool clip amounts to approximately 12.000,000 pounds per year, of wliich Ontario produces almost one- half. Very little of it now comes to the United States. During the years 1895, 1896, and 1897, in which there was no import duty on wool into the United States, the Canadian growers sent a large amount, averaging approximately 5,000,000 pounds per year — about one-half of the clip; but with the restoration of the duty in 1898 the shipments dropped back to the former average of about 1,500,000 pounds per year. These shipments consist almost entirely of combing wools not under 5 inches in length and generally have been washed on the sheep's backs. Much of the Ontario wool, estimated as high as 60 or 70 per cent of the total clip, is thus washed — a practice that is quite common in the eastern Provinces. The average shrinkage on wool from the eastern Provinces appears to be between 50 and 60 per cent. Canadian studjloclcs. — Canadian breeders are very enterprising and have worked systematically and with excellent success to build up 458 REPOBT OF TABIPF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. stud flocks of first-class mutton breeds. So successful have they been that it is estimated by several writers that from 60 to 70 per cent of their output of high-class breeding stock comes to the United States each year. Some Canadian writers deplore this as one of the great causes for the decline of the sheep-raising industry in Canada, assert- ing that the farm flocks have not been Kept up as they should by reason of this drain upon the Dominion's best blood. To check this decHne and aid the sheep owners in reestablishing the business, the Canadian Government has brought into the country at different times liigh-class stud sheep and sold them either at public auction or for very low figures to actual farm with the hope of thus buiiding up the business. actual farmers and woolgrowers PART 11. RAW WOOLS -ADDENDA. SPECIAL KEPOKT OX THE WOOL INDUSTRY OF THE AUSTRALIAN COmiONWEALTH. 459 BLANK PAGE(S) I ll SPECIAL AUSTRALIAN STUD EWES (UNDER 1| YEARS), GRAZED AT LARGE ON NATURAL GRASSES. AND UNHOUSED. Ilf f AN AUSTRALIAN MERINO RAM THAT SOLD FOR $6,000. 1 SPECIAI EEPORT OH THE WOOL BSTDUSTEY OF THE AUSTRAIIAH COMMONWEAITH. Sheep were imported from the Cape of Good Hope mto Austraha as early as 1788 oy Capt. Phillip, tne first governor of New South Wales. They formed part of a small shipment of various kinds of live stock from which it was intended to Dreed with a view to aug- menting the food supply of the colony. But a definite beginning with flock husbandry m Australia was not made until 1797, when 26 stud sheep of the Esourial breed were introduced from the Cape. Eight of tnese survived and were purchased by Capt. John McArthur, a pioneer settler, who had secured a grant of land at Paramatta, near Sydney. In 1804 (two years after David Humphreys established his famous stud flock of Spanish merinos in Connecticut) McArthur im- ported a few rams and ewes of pure Negretti blood which he had pur- chased from the stud of King George III at Kew, in England. As neither the Cape nor the Negretti sheep throve well in the moist climate of Paramatta, they were removed inland to an estate on higher country at Campbelltown, and there in 1827 McArthur de- veloped the Camden Park stud, the first breeding establishment of its kind in Austraha. i A far greater stimulus to the AustraHan wool industry was, how- ever, about to be exerted from Tasmania — or Van Diemens Land, as the island was then called. In 1825 a group of English capitahsts formed the Van Diemens Land Co. and founded a large pastoral estate at Circular Head. In the course of five years they spent £30,000^ in importing merinos from Saxony and some Cotswold and other English sheep. The majority or the purchases were of the best Saxony types, descended from Spanish merinos, and their cost, including transpor- tation charges, ranged from £14 19s. to £15 6s. lOd. per head. The reputation of Tasmania as a breeding center was further enhanced in 1829 when ^Ir. W. Warrington, an English settler, formed two sepa- rate stud fiocks, one consisting of imported Electoral sheep and the other of Negrettis. The original aim of these Tasmanian flockowners was to grow wool for England, and ultimately to render that country independent of Spanish, German, and other foreign sources of sup- ply; but for many years their most valuable work was the breeding of merino sheep for the rapidly multiplying ''stations" around the coastal fringe of the Australian mainland. In 1820 Australia had about 200,000 sheep of various kinds. A few samples of wool had previously been sent to England, but the provision of mutton for domestic use was still the chief business of tne scattered pastoralists of that time. By 1830 the industry had been raised to a commercial basis. The sheep of the high-grade Tasmanian flocks had increased to 60,000. 1 In reducing English moneys the American reader can estimate it at 2 cents for the English penny (d.), 24 cents for the shilling (s.), and 14.87 for the pound sterling (£). 461 INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE t SPECIAL AUSTRALIAN STUD EWES (UNDER M, YEARS). GRAZED AT LARGE ON NATURAL GRASSES. AND UNHOUSED. AN AUSTRALIAN MERINO RAM THAT SOLD FOR $6,000. SPECIAL EEPORT ON THE WOOL raDTTSTRY OF THE AXJSTRALIAir COMMONWEALTH. Sheep were imported from the Cape of Good Hope into Australia as early as 1788 by Capt. Phillip, the first governor of New South Wales. They formed part of a small shipment of various kinds of live stock from which it was intended to breed with a view to aug- menting the food supply of the colony. But a definite beginning with flock husbandry m Australia was not made until 1797, when 26 stud sheep of the Escurial breed were introduced from the Cape. Eight of tliese survived and were purchased by Capt. John McArthur, a pioneer settler, who had securecf a grant of land at Paramatta, near Sydney. In 1804 (two years after David Humphrej^s established his famous stud flock of Spanish merinos in Connecticut) McArthur im- ported a few rams and ewes of pure Negretti blood which he had pur- chased from the stud of King George III at Kew, in England. As neither the Cape nor the Negretti sheep tlirove well in the moist climate of Paramatta, they were removed inland to an estate on higher country at Campbelltown, and there in 1827 McArthur de- veloped the Camden Park stud, the first breeding establishment of its kind in Austraha. I A far greater stimulus to the Australian wool industry was, how- ever, about to be exerted from Tasmania — or Van Diemens Land, as the island was then called. In 1825 a group of English capitalists formed the Van Diemens Land Co. and founded a large pastoral estate at Circular Head. In the course of five years they spent £30,000* in importing merinos from Saxony and some Cotswold and other English sheep. The majority of the purchases were of the best Saxony types, descended from Spanish merinos, and their cost, including transpor- tation charges, ranged from £14 19s. to £15 6s. lOd. per head. The reputation of Tasmania as a breeding center was further enhanced in 1829 when Mr. W. Warrington, an English settler, formed two sepa- rate stud flocks, one consisting of imported Electoral sheep and the other of Negrettis. The original aim of these Tasmanian flockowners was to grow wool for England, and ultimately to render that country independent of Spanish, German, and other foreign sources of sup- ply; but for many years their most valuable work was the breeding of merino sheep for the rapidly multiplying '' stations" around the coastal fringe of the Australian mainland. In 1820 Australia had about 200,000 sheep of various kinds. A few samples of wool had previously been sent to England, but the provision of mutton for domestic use was still the cliief business of tlie scattered pastoralists of that time. By 1830 the industry had been raised to a commercial basis. The sheep of the high-grade Tasmanian flocks had increased to 60,000. » In reducing English moneys the American reader can estimate it at 2 cents for the English penny (d.), 24 cents for the shilling (s.), and $4.87 for the pound sterling (£). 461 462 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 463 Their progeny and tliose of the Camden Park stud were being dis- tributed among new pastoral estates leased from the Government at peppercorn rentals or acquired at very low purchase rates and in most cases limited in area only by the ability of the settlers to accu- mulate stock. English manufacturers had given a surprised and emphatic welcome to the fii-st consignments of fine Australian merino wool offered to them. One parcel of 2i hundredweight bad been Purchased at 3s. 3d. per pound, and another — this from the Camden 'ark flock — at 48. per pound. The growers were told that if they could supply such raw material in bulk to the English trade they would find an extensive and highly profitable market for it. Thencefor^ ard the Australian wool-growing industry made great progress. The conditions were generally favorable for its rapid expansion; lai^e tracts of country were available in districts with an assured rainfall: taxes were a trifling burden;* the cheap labor of the aborigines supplemented that of the white settlers; the wool market offered ample encouragement, and oversea transport was improving. By 1860 there were 20,135,286 sheep in Austraha and Tasmania, comprising 6,119,163 in New South Wales, 5,780,896 in Victoria, 3,449,350 m Queensland, 2,824^11 in South Australia, 1,700,930 in Tasmania, and 260,136 in Western Australia. The Tasmanian pastoralists had hoped to attain a high position as suppliers of wool from Australasia to tho United Kmjjdom. After 35 years their flocks represented less than one-twelfth of the total number in the BIX colonies and their wool clip amounted to only one-fifth of the aggregate annual j^ield. But Tasmania had adhered to its high standard of quahty in both stud sheep and wool, and although nearly 70 per cent of the wool now grown on the island is crossbred, several of tne larger stations still maintain their old position without material alteration. INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE. Pastoral Austraha embraces at least three distinct varieties of ch- mate. As the flockowners of the mainland spread westward and northward from the coastal belt — some to become permanent settlers on vast inland tracts, others to estabhsh tentative outpost stations while retaining for greater security old properties in the settled parts of the country — they found it necessary to seek new types of stock. The fine-wooled Saxony and Spanish merinos which suited Tasmania, the eastern portion of New South Wales, and the southwestern district of Victoria became unprofitable when removed to dry " back country," subject to the severities of high temperature and recurrent drought on unsheltered plains. Their vield declined in weight by nearly one-half and was, in many cases, only 3 pounds of dehcate uneven wool, worth from 2s. to 2s. 6a. per fleece. Through these and other experiences the growers soon learned that, although the greater part of Austraha was capable of becoming a vast sheep run, there would have to be a systematic adjustment of stock to the special conditions of chmate, elevation, and pasturage in differ- ent temtorial zones and in different portions of tlie same zone. Thus began a series of experiments in crossbreeding \^dth English, French, and Tasmanian sheep. In several districts the Southdown, iLeicester, and Cotswold varieties were tried without crossing; but the results in respect of wool were indifferent. Kambouillet rams, which were imported between 1845 and 1854 and mated with selected merinos of Tasmanian stock, proved far more satisfactory. The offspring was a hardy merino adapted to the low-rainfall areas of New South Wales, South Austraha, and Western Austraha, and able to bear prolonged heat and long-distance travel. At this period, however, skilfful sheep breeders were still a compara- tively small class in Australia. Tiie chief interest of the majority of the pastoraUsts was to utilize as much of the abundant open country as possible. As wool exporters they aimed first at quantity and hoped to achieve quality later. An extraordinarily rapid expansion of their flocks followed. Between 1860 and 1870 the number of sheep in the country more than doubled, rising from 20,135,286 to 41,593,612. A marked deterioration in the quahty of the wool was noted by the English manufacturers at this time and reflected in the returns from the London sales. The prices realized for a large portion of the Aus- trahan chp were 2d. to 3id. below those for European meruios. PRINCIPAL VARIETIES OF SHEEP. Profiting by warnings and advice from the London wholesale deal- ers, the Australian pastoralists now set about improving their flocks by greater care in selection and classification and by further impor- tations of new blood. This effort soon gave an impetus to the move- ment, initiated between 20 and 30 years earlier by a few of the large studs in New South Wales and South Australia, toward the evolution of three distinctively Australian varieties of merino sheep — the fine wooled, which fare best on high lands within the temperate coastal zone — where short sweet grasses are grown; the medium, which can bear rougher treatment, but need rich and abundant pastures; and the strong wooled, a sheep of large frame and tough constitution, adapted to the great "out-back" plains, where the summer temper- ature frequently exceeds 90° in the shade and the food during several weeks in each year consists of sparse dry grass or salt bush. The average hve weights of the three types are as follows: Fine merino stud ram, 100 pounds; ewe, 80 pounds. Medium merino etud ram, 140 pounds; ewe, 110 pounds. Strong-wooled merino ram, 160 pounds; ewe, 150 pounds. Throughout their many experiments in selection and crossing, the majority of the Austrahan breeders have aimed at the development of a lai^e-bodied animal, providing the maximum surface area for the growth of wool and at the same tune a carcass fairly attractive to the butcher. That this double object has been attained, without material deviation as regards quality of wool from the essential characteristics of the true merino t^^pe, can not be doubted by anyone who has seen the Austrahan flocks of to-day. THE AUSTRALIAN STUDS. Of 44 studs noted for the high quality of their stock, 30 now sup- Sthe industry with sheep of the large-framed type, which produce eavy fleece of merino wool described by experts as "robust, bright, dense, and lustrous." The rams yield from 25 to 30 pounds. Weights of 32 to 35 pounds have been recorded in a few instances. On the Burrawang estate, in the central division of New South Wales a I' i: i. 464 ■ BEFOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUU! K. ^ 1 * -70 nrtn aVioflii nt this large merino type recently cut an average flock of 73,630 ^««P ^"^^'Sock of 22,000 shorn at Booboorowie, of 10 pounds each, and a s™^*^ ""^^° „! -unces On the Egalabra f^Uowi^e II™' r« Prerecorded during the clip of 1909-10: foUowmg average im.u pounds 8* ounces each; 1,2/9 Two hundred ««d forty-one rwns 17 p^un , ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ *■*""«. T645l,Veedi^ ei^, 10 pou^^^^^^ ounces; ^601 mixed VZ^h SS 10 po^dsToi ounces. Such returns, however, are The general ''^^'^t /f l-i^^^^i^^'^^^^ one of merinos IS between 7 ai.d 8 pounds^ ineov^^^ AustraUa thSe Sai-iflS^intesTipTy '^{^"^rsLratnu^a?? &f- averS weight of fliece from grown sheep, 8 pounds 10 oZces;rd ff^m Ss, 2 pounds 5 ounces; general average weight of fleece (sheep and lambs) 7 PO"^''^^ ounces ^fashions" rru^ Tvi/\cf QllPf»l^^^flll stud owners are inose wiio, wuu^ x€*o inTfocrwerrchSg at short inten-als and frequent importations S foretn Wood we?^till being made, kept the n^^^^f f ^^i^ J^-'^^t^,^ the VSrv steadily in view, foresaw that the majontj^.of t^ ?f %of ihsts wou7d ultimaily be driven b^ck into the dnera-^^^^ the B^vflnre of affricultural settlement, and were a* '"Vf j Simi^'^ul oK possibilities of the ^-^^y^^^^^Xtn^^ool- % is noteworthy that *« rams n^wmgrejea^^^^^^^ growers ('«.'h«tmgu,shed from W ^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^vsrrtuTls'ranS- htrt^o^^^^^ Zl do'sl br Jding to pJfduce the Austrahan -^^^^^^ nlrAndv indicated. For example, four or the oesx siuus m i^tsw ?Ji?n4 with . »«fiJl jWch .v»«f ks. 'h« \l^^^-^J^^ Kc ," 3« » "Si «"'=» merinos .r. yo« m j totnot of BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 465 have frequently been made from it for the improvement of the South African and South American flocks. Several of the breeding stations in Queensland, South Australia, and Western Austraha have an admixture of Wanganella blood. The Hawker, Canowie, Booboorowie, Hill River, and Bungaree studs in South Austraha produce almost perfectly plain-bodied sheep, which are slightly larger than the corresponding type of merino stock in New South Wales and Queensland. The South Australians ascribe their success largely to the fact that they have always avoided breed- ing ''foldv" stock. Folds, they assert, have a tendency to weaken the constitution of the sheep on which they are developed. At some of the South Austrahan studs early experiments were made with Saxony and Spanish rams; but at Boonoke and Wanganella better results were obtained with Rambouillet sheep, and iiltimately the owners decided to rely exclusively upon selections from the best of their own stock. , At one South Austrahan stud, the Mount Crawford (which differs from those already named by being near the coast, in a relatively high rainfall area), close breeding has been carried on during more than 60 years. Here again, notwithstanding the difference in ch- mate, a preference for the large, strong-wooled merino has been shown. The fine-wooled merinos are confined chiefly to portions of Tasmania, the New England district in the eastern division of New South Wales, Mudgee, and the southern district of Victoria. But even in Tas- mama, which was long preeminent in the fine-wooled class, the majority of the stud owners are now breeding strong-wooled merinos and crossbreds. Along the coastal fringe of Austraha, and more par- ticularly in the temperate southern districts, some Romney Marsh, Cotswold, Leicester, I^incoln, and crossbred sheep are found. These are kept primarily to supply the export trade in mutton and lamb. Vermont rams were tried a few years in New South Wales. Their introduction into several well-known flocks added to the density of the merino fleece, but this gain was more than counterbalanced by a shortening of the staple, an excessive addition of grease, and other disadvantages, with tne result that the Vermonts fell out of favor and are no longer used. EFFECTS OF DROUGHT ON THE FLOCKS. There are now approximately 100,000,000 sheep in Australia. This estimate is based upon statistics coUected from pastorahsts and firms in the wool trade. Official figures for 1910 are not yet available. The complete returns for 1909 show 46,194,178 sheep in New South Wales, 19,593,791 in Queensland, 12,937,983 in Vic- toria, 6,475,431 in South Austraha, 4,731,737 in Western Australia, and 1,734,761 in Tasmania. According to the treasurer's budget statement for 1910-11 there were 91,667,881 sheep in the Common- wealth in 1909, but a later calculation supphed by the Federal statistician gives the total as 92,044,874. This, as will be seen by reference to Appendix A, was exceeded in the years 1890 to 1894, the maximum being reached in 1892, when the sheep in the six States numbered 103,272,068. The calamitous drought which began in the latter half of the decade 1890-1900 and culminated in 1902 reduced the flocks by 32080*— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1- ^0 466 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABO ON SCHEDXJUB K. BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABO ON SCHEDULE K. 467 I m\ I 44,212,874. At the end of 1902 the number of sheep in the Common- wealth stood at 53,668,347, and it is a remarkable evidence of the natural recuperative power of the country that within the succeed- ing eight years the total should have been increased by about 44,000,000. The normal yearly expansion of the Australian flocks is being materially retarded by the increasing demands of the meat trade. In 1901 the number of sheep slaughtered in the Common- wealth for home consumption and export was 8,970,000; in 1910 the total (estimated) was 12,000,000. PRODUCTION AND EXPORT OF WOOL. Details of the production of wool in AustraUa during the past 10 years are given in Appendix B. According to the statistician of the Commonwealth, who is unable to supply complete figures for a later date than December 31, 1909, the wool produced in that year amounted to 718,037,132 pounds, valued at £27,825,000. The value of the wool exported from the Commonwealth during 11 months of 1910 — up to November 30 — is provisionally estimated by the stat- istician at £23,677,780. Of the quantity produced in 1909, 8,261,658 pounds were used locally, the balance or 709,775,474 pounds being available for oversea shipment. The average declared value of the wool exported in that year was 9s. 3 Id., as compared with 9s. lOd. in 1908, 10s. 61d. in 1907, 10s. 8d. in 1906, 9s. 77d. in 1905, 9s. 19d. in 1904, 8s. 76d. in 1903, 7s. 94d. in 1902, and 7s. 19d. in 1901. Dalgety & Co., the leading firm of wool brokers in Australia and most accurate compilers of statistics in the trade, have supplied a statement, which will be foimd in Appendix D, of the quantities (in bales) of wool exported from the Commonwealth during the last 10 years. It will be observed that a rapid advance in the exports took place after the recovery of the pastoral industry from the prolonged drought. The figures, unlike those of the Government statistician, represent an attempt to deal with the cUps separately. Each group therefore refers to operations in the second half of one year and the first half of the next. The exports rose from 1,218,969 bales in 1904-5 to 1,921,507 bales in 1909-10. Later information indicated a possibility that the AustraUan exports during the 1910-11 season which ended on June 30, 1911, might amount for the first time in the history of the industry to 2,000,000 bales. The exports of 1909-10 were composed of 86 per cent of merino and 14 per cent of cross- bred and other strong wools. The sources of the two main classes of wool are substanti Uy indicated by the following returns from local sales held at the five* principal export centers of the Commonwealth in 1910: I M '^ t l- Sjdney... Melbourne Brisbane.. Adelaide.. Merino. Bales. 779,832 246,049 174,313 124,727 8,700 Per cent. 95 68 97 90 45 Crossbred. Bales. 38,498 115,788 6,226 13,868 10,928 Per cent. 5 32 3 10 55 MABKET PRICES. In 1900-1901, when all wool was abnormally cheap, the local wholesale price of average quality merino in the grease was down to 7Jd- P^r pound; since 1901-2 it has varied from 8fd. to lid. The top prices for superior greasy fluctuated in the course of 10 years from 13}d. to 2 Id. per pound, and those for average quality scoured rose from 14id. to 21^(1. (See Appendix E.) In the second half of the decade values generally have remained high in spite of the great increase in production. At the first series of the 1910-11 sales prices dropped, as compared with the previous year's, by 15 per cent on fine merinos, and an average of 5 per cent on all classes of wool. The chief cause of this decline was a report persistently cir- culated in Europe that the Austrahan and New Zealand clips would show an increase of between 200,000 and 250,000 bales. Shortly before the close of 1910 it became evident that the actual increase would not exceed 100,000 bales and might, indeed, not quite reach that number, with the result that prices at the opening of the second series of sales in January were firm and soon exhibited an upward tendency. Medium greasy merino was sold at an average of 11 id. per pound and superior at 13 id. For the fleece portion of well-known clips from New South Wales, South Australia, and Queensland prices ranging from 14Jd. to 20d. were obtained in London. Crossbred and ^'comeback" wools have been in strong demand in Europe during the past few years, and especially among the manufacturers of Yorkshire and France, the prices for the higher grades in both classes frequently equaling those paid for good merino. The large increase during the past 10 years in the aggregate of the AustraUan and New Zealand clips, which amounted in 1909-10 to 2,434,643 bales, has been coincident with a high average of prices throughout the greater part of the decade. That is a striking fact worthy of attention in connection with any study of the condition and future commercial possibilities of the Austrahan wool industry. Although the supply of the raw material increases, it remains for the present within the world's demand; in fact, it would appear from statistics pubUshed that production has failed of late to keep pace with the mcrease of the wool-using peoples. The statistics show that 'Hhe quantity of clean wool at the disposal of the industry (not the quantity actually consumed in the form of manufactures) was ?o..i ? average of periods as follows per head of the population: 186\~1870, 2.26 pounds; 1871-1880, 2.43 pounds (mcrease, 7i per cent); 1881-1890, 2.57 pounds (increase, 6 per cent); 1891-1900, 2.76 pounds (increase, 7i per cent); 1900-1909, 2.64 pounds (de- crease, 4i per cent). ^ These figures help to explain why efforts made within the past six months to bear" the European wool market have had only a slight temporary effect. "^ ^ Manufacturers in France, England, and Germany declare that they must have cheaper wool, and that the price of the standard 64s tops should not be permitted to exceed 2s. 2d. But in general they go on paying what the measure of the current market supply dictates. Meanwhile, the prosperity of their industry is undeniable. In i^ngland most of the factories are being worked at high pressure. Ill 468 BEPOBT OF TAKIFP BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. The value of mill property in Yorkshire is estimated to have increased of late by 25 per cent, and new machinery is being mstalled m many instances. THE AMERICAN DEMAND. In the principal AiistraUan markets, as in London, the American demand usually has a marked influence on the returns from all light, high-grade merino and crossbred wools; for though the quantity purchased in each season for shipment to the Umted States is relatively small, the prices paid for it are high, and have a tendency to keep up values for all wools of the same description. Brokers state that, although the American purchases made in the 1909-10 season repre- sented only 7 per cent of the total clip, they influenced the prices of between 400,000 and 500,000 bales. It is understood in the export trade that the general purpose of the American buyers, dictated to a large extent by tariff considerations, is to secure wool which wiU give the highest yield when scoured; that they are obliged, under present circumstances, to so limit the scope of their choice as to incur at tunes the disadvantage of excessive competition among themselves; and that again, on account of the United States customs duties, they are unable to purchase scoured wool and certain classes of superior greasy wools which, but for theu: heavy condition, would be well suited to American requirements. The sales at which the representatives of American houses make the majority of their purchases are those held at Melbourne and Geelong, but they give some attention in turn to the New South Wales, Tasmanian, and other Australian markets. Buyers from Boston, New York, Worcester, and San Francisco attended sales at Geelong as early as 1871-72, and since that season the annual dis- play of ^'Geelong wool"— a designation applied chiefly to the clean fine merino wools of western Victoria— has regularly attracted representatives of the American trade. The business of the Geelong safes has been built up mainly by the direct demand from the Umted States, and the principal local authority, who speaks from 40 years experience of the trade, frankly admits that a reduction of the American duties woidd cause serious loss to the brokers at that center by enabling the buyers to purchase more largely elsewhere. The prices for Victorian wools bought on American account have not shown any considerable variation m recent years. The averages of those bought in the 1909-10 season are as foUows: Choice western district merino i « J^ }?i Superior western district merino |^ J^ :J'J Good weetem district merino i r J^ ipf Bc8t Riverina merino jq t 14 Good Riverina merino T^ * T o i Choice western district comeback (588 quality) 11 ^ ! a! Superior western district comeback j^ J^ 104 Western district fine crossbred (508 quality)..... it*\L Western district medium crossbred (468 quality) ! V ^ i? Western district crossbred (408 quality) IJ to id A table given in Appendix F includes figures which show the prin- cipal Australian sources of the wools bought for the Umted States during the past five years. Of the total quantity of wool sold m Aus- tralia, the United States took about 4i per cent in 1905-6, 71 per BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 469 cent in 1906-7, 3f per cent in 1907-8, 61 per cent in 1908-9, and 7 per cent in 1909-10. In the first series of the 1910-11 sales in Australia the Americans bought sparingly and at prices averaging 15 per cent below those paid by mem in the previous year. The caution exhibited by their opera- tions was a notable feature of the sales. It was attributed to failure of the American market to absorb a considerable portion of the for- eign wools purchased for it in 1909-10. Reports from Bradford stated that these unused wools, which included 4,000 or 5,000 bales from Australasia and the Cape, had been shipped to England and sold at prices substantially lower than those originally paid for them — in some cases, it is stated, at a loss of £4 to £5 per bale. In 1909-10 the Americans bought 106,000 bales in Australia. An estimate made by one of their number puts the probable total of their purchases in 1910-11 in these markets at 30,000 bales. The bulk of the fine wools passed by them this season are being bought for contiaental Europe. DEVELOPMENT OF AUSTRALIAN SALES. Pastoralists and brokers predict that while Bradford rates will con- tinue to govern prices in the Australian markets, London will soon virtually cease to be a selling center for Australian wool, except in the case of a few high-class clips and a small portion of the scoured wool. About 52 per cent of the New Zealand wool clip is still sent to the English market. In the season 1909-10, 85 per cent of the total Australian clip was sold locally. The advantage in price gained in London has gradually declined, and often it is more than counterbalanced by the delay and extra expense incurred in dealing there. Freight, insurances, storage, dock dues, and other charges add from 20s. to 30s. per bale to the cost of selling in the English market. The amount fluctuates in accordance with changes in freight, exchange, and the weight of the bales. Even when a grower gets a better price in London, after allowing for the extra charges, he has been obliged to wait many weeks for it. Should his shipment miss the sale for which it was iatended, he may have to wait two months for the next sale. In the meantime storage and insurance charges are accumulating, and five or six months may elapse between the shearing of the wool in Australia and the receipt of the complete returns from London. The Australian grower who disposes of nis clip at the nearest port in his ovm country is paid 14 days after the sale. A Sydney broker states: The Australian market has been built up by quick returns. A pastoralist soon knows, after his wool is shorn, how he will stand financially during the ensuing 12 months; adjusting outlay to his resources he can embark at once on necessary im- provements which he could not undertake with equal security and satisfaction if he had shipped his clip to London. Another reason why Australian selling is preferred by the majority of the growers is that they like to come to town at the close of the shearing and "have a say" in the business of selling their clips. Many of them are close bargainers, and in their anxiety to gain the distinction as well as the advantage of top prices they put excessive reserves on their wool which are not reached at the auctions. But it is always open to them, or their brokers, to make subsequent private flales. The close personal relations between the Austrahan growers and the brokers have undoubtedly helped to expand the latter's business at m BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 471 m iti the expense of the London trade. Moreover, as a Geelong broker points out: One manufacturer after another haa learned by experience that if he is to have a first choice of a new Australian clip he must come to the place ot production. The station owners who continue to sell in London do so imrtly through aentiment and old asso- ciations. In time, almost the whole of the Austrahan clip will be sold.locally. The general anticipation of this in the trade is shown by the erecUon of immense wool stores and showrooms in every State. The only fault of the Austrahan system is that there are too many selHng centers. Brokers suggest that one senes of sales m the capital city of each State, or six series m all, should suffice. Of the wool sold during the 1909-10 season in the Austrahan market 65 per cent was purchased by contmental Europe and 21i per cent by the United Kmgdom. The balance of 12^ per cent was distributed between Japan, the United States, India, and the Austrahan manu- TfLf*tiirei*8 It is evident from a comparison of prices paid in the European markets durmg the past 10 years that m respect of average quahty, as weU as of quantity, Australia contmues to lead the world m mermo- wool production. Its flockmasters are, however, feehng the compe- tition of the mdustry m South Africa, which has been strengthened by the importation of 15,000 Austrahan stud sheep within the past six years The Austrahans recognize that tins rivalry will soon become ^'serious" (they do not fear that of Argentma to the same extent), and suggestions have been made at intervals that the exportation of stud sheep from Austraha to South Africa should be prohibited. Such ac- tion is not hkely to be taken, for various reasons, though there could be urged m its support the prohibition of the export of ostriches and Angora goats from South Africa. LOCAL CONSUMPTION OF WOOL. There are 21 woolen factories in the Commonwealth, of which 9 are in Victoria, 5 m New South Wales, 4 m Tasmama, 2 in South Australia, and 1 m Queensland. They used 6,024,442 Po.^^ds of wool m 1901, 6,033,704 pounds m 1902, 6,313,509 pounds m 1903, 6,062,751 pounds in 1904, 6,891,036 pounds m 1905, 7,249,151 pounds iii 1906, 8^309,063 pounds m 1907, 9,114,157 pounds m 1908, and 8 261,658 pounds m 1909. The aggregate of tlie capital employed ii the m(histryis estunated at £617 000, and the latest statistics available place the value of the annual production at £575,000. Although the manufacturers are protected by a custoins levy of 30 per cent on foreign piece goods and 25 per cent on British, they sav that they do not hope for a rapid expansion of their busmess, as the cost of labor is 50 per cent aTi)ove the English average and is gradually gomg still higher. On this account, and for additional reasons of a teclinical character, their production is hmited cliiefly to flannels, blankets, rugs, the commoner class of tweeds, and other goods which do not involve much complexity m the processes of their manufacture. Some worsteds come from two of the nulls, but they make a very small contribution to the annual output. The bulk of these Austrahan goods, though sound m material, are deficient m finish and inferior in attractiveness to competing European goods of the same classes. The latter are preferred by most of the con- sumers^ whose general prosperity enables them to pay without hesitation the liigher prices charged for the imported articles. The annual importations of apparel into the Commonwealth are valued at £14,000,000, which includes about £3,000,000 worth of woolen goods. Apparently many years will elapse before the purchases of raw material for the factories in Austraha will have any consid- erable influence on prices. SURPLUS STOCK AND THE MUTTON TRADE. The majority of the pastoralists in Australia who grow merino wool, including all owners of large flocks occuping low-rainfall areas dis- tant from the principal ports, are interested in the meat trade only to the extent tnat it offers them a convenient outlet for the disposal of their surplus stock. Since the preference for the big-framed "Australian merino" became general among them, they have had a fairly substantial class of sheep for slaughter; but that circumstance has been merely incidental to the pursuit of their main aim — the increase of their annual clip — which they had in view long before the frozen meat trade assumea its present importance. In the two States which supply more than two-thirds of the Commonwealth's annual product of wool the sheep and lambs slaughtered are still chiefly of the standard breed. Firms in the meat trade say that 90 per cent of the full-grown mutton carcasses exported from New South Wales and between 90 and 95 per cent of tnose shipped from Queensland are merinos. The proportion of crossbred to merino exported from Victoria and South Australia is estimated at from 35 to 40 per cent. The best mutton sheep are raised on small stations and farms situated in well-watered districts within 200 miles of the coast. Agricultur- ists who alternate the production of grain crops with sheep-farming choose, as a rule, only such stock as will yield crossbred wool of the class most in demand as well as a good-sized carcass. As yet, few of the stock owners specialize in sheep exclusively for the meat market. The Shropshire oreed attracted much attention a few years ago, but it is now going out of favor (except among farmers in South Australia who grow lambs only), owing to the coarseness of its wool. The varieties of crossbred sheep most gener- ally kept are the Lincoln merino, the Leicester merino, and the come- back. The last named is a three-quarter bred merino, produced by first mating a Lincoln ram with a merino ewe, and then mating a merino ram with the progeny. A farmer's flock of 100 comeback ewes will clip on the average 7 pounds of wool, worth 9d. per pound, and give from 80 to 90 per cent of lambs, which mature in four months and are then saleable at from 10s. to 12s. per head. Romney Marsh, Dorset horn, Hampshire Down, and Border Leicester sheep are being used experimentally on a small scale with a view to supplying the mutton trade, but it remains to be seen whether prices tor exported frozen meat will rise sufficiently to justify displacement of the cross- breds which, as already indicated, owe their popularity largely to the quality of their wool. The mam tendency at present is toward improvement of the exist- ing flocks from which the bulk of the exported mutton and lamb is drawn. The sheep are fed on natural grasses, stubbles, and in some 472 BEPOBT OF TABIFP BOAED ON SCHEDUI^ K. BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 473 i 1 instances on light oat crops which are grown on "resting" agricultural land before it is fallowed. There is no general recourse to strong fattening fodders such as those used in several parts of the United States — notably in Colorado — and in England. The prices received by the grower on delivery for medium five sheep at the exporting centers average 10s. per head for shorn, 16s. to 20s. for sheep in the wool, and lis. for lambs. The best South Australian crossbred wethers sell in the Adelaide market at 25s. to 30s. each in the wool, and yield an average of 85 pounds of dressed mutton. Though such returns are exceptional, they illustrate what can be done with the right class of sheep, fed on ordinary grasses witliin the Australian coastal belt. There can be no doubt that the export of frozen mutton and lamb is capable of being, and will be, extended far beyond its present limits in the near future. How quickly the Australian grower and the exporter are able to respond to a moderate improvement in Euro- pean prices is shown by current statistics. In the six months from July 1 to December 31, 1910, Austraha exported 1,391,576 carcasses of mutton and 1,301,901 carcasses of lamb; an increase in the two classes of meat of 95.3,050 carcasses upon the total for the second half of 1909. The refrigeratiog plants in New South Wales are capable of treating 22,600 carcasses per day and have a storage capacity of 615,000 carcasses. Those in Victoria have an aggregate capacity of 27,250 carcasses per day and storage for 480,000. Additions are rapidly being made to the equipment in these two principal meat- exporting States, and also to that in Queensland. It is estimated that the exports of mutton to the United Kingdom for the year ending July 31, 1911, will approximate 3,000,000 carcasses, and those of lamb 1,700,000 carcasses. The total value of the exports will, at the present rate of expansion, soon reach £2,000,000 per annum. On the question whether current prices for meat will be maintained there are differences of opinion among Government experts and the heads of the principal exporting firms, but all agree that the develop- ment of the export trade must be accelerated in order to cope with the increase in the surplus stock, and that the industry will continue to give an adequate return on London wholesale prices averaging over a period of years 3d. per pound for mutton and 4d. per pound for lamb. The charge for sea transport to England is five-eighths of a penny per pound on both classes of meat. One high authority in ihe export trade says that Australia could profitably dispose of large supplies of frozen mutton to the United States at 2d. per pound f. o. b. This statement was made in connection with a calculation that if there be no recurrence of serious drought, the flocks in the Common- wealth will increase within the next three years to 120,000,000. The contraction of the world's total supplies of mutton and the oppor- tunity presented by the growing local stock surplus give AustraUa a double incentive to proceed with the further development of its meat trade, and this can be undertaken without risk of any considerable interference with the wool industry. I THE PASTORAL LANDS. The first of the main factors which have to be taken into account in considering more closely the business aspect of wool growing in Australia is tiie cheapness of the land on all of the greater pastoral areas. Climatic conditions and the restriction of railway facilities have tended throughout the country to confine agricultural produc- tion and dairy farming chiefly to '' alienated" land (i. e., freehold) and land in process of being purchased from the Governments. These areas are approximately within 250 miles of the coast, and it is estimated (complete figures are not obtainable) that they contribute about one-fifth of the country 's total yearly wool clip. The propor- tion will increase. Grain production is almost everywhere impeded by scarcity of efficient labor. Wliile this handicap remains — and it can be removed only by a large increase of immigration — the Austra- lian farmers will continue to combine sheep raising with agriculture. From three to four times as many sheep can usually be maintained in such conditions on a given area of land as were provided for on the same area when it was used solely for pastoral purposes and no stubble fodder was available. All of the great sheep runs, or ^* stations," are inland, behind the agricultural tract. In past years when the State governments needed money, it was their practice to sell pastoral blocks at from 10s. to 20s. per acre. Many of these are scattered about the country, but their aggregate area is small in comparison with that of the cheap leased lands on which the greater proportion of the merino wool is grown. An indication of the position is given by the latest official land sta- tistics of the country. As against 130,393,166 acres alienated or in process of ahenation, representing only 6.84 per cent of the total area of the country, 787,211,488 acres are held under lease or license, representing 41.36 per cent. (See Appendix J.) More than half of the Commonwealth — amounting to 986,127,186 acres, or 51.80 per cent — is still unoccupied. The 6.84 per cent of land purchased, or in process of being purchased, includes all purely agricultural blocks, a large number of cattle stations, and town prop- erties. Of land held under lease or ficense there are 273,307,365 acres in Queensland, 161,255,897 in Western Austraha, 129,150,578 in New South Wales, 103,419,428 in the Northern Territory, 102,617,100 in South Australia, 15,955,346 in Victoria, and 1,505,774 m Tasmania. RENTS OF LEASEHOLDS. Sheep runs occupy three-fourths of New South Wales, the State in which nearly half of the present wool chp of the country is grown. (See Appendix B.) The rents for leased lands in New South Wales average only 1 Jd. per acre. In the western district, where 78,786,000 acres are almost entirely devoted to woolgrowing, a Government com- mission specially appointed to deal with that part of the State is empowered to fix rents at 7d. per sheep on the carrying capacity of the land; with the result that the annual charges for aU of the poorer runs, on which from 10 to 15 acres are required for one sheep, fail considerably below Id. per acre. One pastorahst in this division holds under several leases an aggregate of 2,506,000 acres for which he pays an average rent of shghtly less than Jd. per acre. In the central 474 BEPOBT OF TAEIPF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 475 division of New South Wales, which gives a larger yield of wool than any other division of the same State, 28,403,167 acres of cheap lands are held under lease and Hcense. Though rents here for the smaller leaseholds run from 2d. to 3d. per acre, those charged for the largest sheep runs vary between Id. and 1 id. per acre. • . In Queensland, which stands in respect of wool production second among the Austrahan States, the rents of pastoral lands leased from the Government are so low that they are reckoned for convenience at per square mile. For one group of these lands, amounting to 264,439 square miles, the annual charge averages 18s. lOJd. per mile; another group of 59,584 square miles is rented: at 9s. 6d. per nule; a third, of 54,584 square miles, at Os. 3|d. per mile. For all pastoral lands held under lease or Hcense in Queensland the average annual rent works out at 16s. lid. per square mile. The proportion of freehold land is still very small. It is officially returned at 4.97 per cent of the total area of the State. A few sheep studs and small flocks are found on such properties; but apart from the product of these the whole of the Queensland wool is grown on lands held under lease or hcense and on very easy terms. Calculated on the basis of carrying capacity, the rents for large runs are equal to 2id. per sheep giazed per annum. For "grazing farms," to which conditions of more recent date apply, the rents equal 4id. per sheep. The Government is beginnmg to realize that the rents fixed for many of the large properties when their occupiers were suffering from the effects of the drought of 1902 are unnecessarily low. That small capitalists do not consider 4id. per head too high is evidenced by the readiness with which tenants are found for grazing farms of vanous sizes ranging up to 60,000 acres, the maximum area of this class that any individual mav occupy. There is a prospect of an increase being made in the rents of the big Queensland runs; but it will not amount to much within the next 10 or 15 years, pending extension of Government railways and the fur- ther provision of artesian water supphes. Figures extracted from official returns and pubhshed in Appendix I show the great area and low rents of some of the runs in the chief pastoral districts. In the west 2,900 square miles are occupied at 8s. per mile, 2,100 square miles at 5s., another holding of 2,716 square miles at the same rate, 3,032 square miles at 3s. per mile, and many other large tracts at from 10s. to 208. per mile. In most cases these are rents for land of low sheep-carrying capacity; but even in districts which have an assured rainfall holdings ranging up to 1,000 square miles are let at from 30s. to 60s. per mile. Only m exceptionallv favored districts do the rents exceed lOOs. per mile. The pastoral land carries at present 1 sheep to every 5.94 acres. This is the average for Queensland as a whole. It is below the actual capacity of the State, as the flockowners in districts of the west and south where the rainfall is less than 15 inches have been understocking their runs since the drought of 1902. Some fix their averages at 10 acres and others at 15 acres per sheep. In South AustraUa there are 141,387 square miles (90,487,680 acres) of pastoral lands, of which the annual rents average 3s. 2d. per mile. Of land abandoned by the original occupiers during droughts, the Government is offering 15,439 square miles at 2s. per mile. South Austraha stands fourth in the list of wool-producing States, but for the present it appears to have reached the linnt of its pastoral capacity. The freehold lands amount to 3.97 per cent of the total ar()a of the State, and now include few sheep stations. Several of the studs remain within 200 miles of the coast, but the wool-growing flocks are being driven northward into "dry'' districts and (ustricts of uncertain rainfall in which the carrying capacity of the land varies from 15 to 40 acres per sheep. A medium-sized run in such country is 781 square miles, which can be rented at from £80 to £120 per year. Western Australia is the least developed portion of the Common- wealth, but it contains a larger area of good pastoral country than any of the other States, with the exception of Queensland. The quantity of wool produced there has douoled within 10 years. The annual rents for pastoral leases are fixed as follows, in accordance with geographical position and the extent of the annual rainfall: Southwestern division, 20s. per 1,000 acres; eastern division, 5s. per 1,000; Eucl a division, 3s. per 1,000; central, Kimberley, and north- western divisions, 10s. per 1,000. Settlement is rapidly proceeding on these terms. In the course of the year ended June 30, 1910, 9,945,000 acres of new pastoral lands were leased from the Govern- ment. So far only 2.24 per cent of the total area of Western Austra- lia has been purchased. This land is held chiefly in the southwestern agricultural district, which supplies more than half of the wool grown in the State; but the tendency of pastoral settlement is toward the cheaper lands of the central and northwestern divisions, where from 5 to 15 acres are needed for each sheep. Appendix I gives the rents paid in the different parts of the State for typical sheep runs. In Victoria and Tasmania the flocks are tept mainly on freehold runs and farms. The former State has still available 3,300,000 acres of pastoral land which can be had at from Id. to 3d. per acre. ' Tas- mania has 1,430,000 acres of low-grade leased land, the rents of which average Ifd. per acre. The cheapest pastoral land in Australia is that available in the Northern Territory, the control of which has recently been transferred by South Australia to the Federal Govern- ment. A total of 69,276,320 acres (constituting about one-fifth of the Territory) are held under lease at rents ranging between 6d. and 3s. 6d. per square mile. Most of the occupied blocks are used as cattle runs. There are only two sheep stations at present, and these are small. Having an ample rainfall, the land is well suited for sheep, and will be extensively occupied by flockowners when the Eroposed transcontinental railway between Adelaide and Port Darwin is completed about five years hence. TENURES. Each Austrahan State has a separate land system. Pastora areas are variously dealt with, but the laws relating to them exhibit a general resemblance to some extent. Broadly stated, the poUcy of the governments has been, first, to extend and permanently to establish settlement by allowing territory to be occupied at very low or ''peppercorn" rentals, and, secondly, to secure an increase of revenue from the lands by periodical reappraisements. These reappraisements are moderate and usually effected with a judicious regard for the quahty of the land, the extent of its water supply, and its distance from railways and the coast. When the occupiers suffer losses through droughts they are given ample time for pay- 476 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUMl K. 477 I t| ment of rent arrears, and in some of the States such losses are followed by a temporary reduction of rents. Generally, it may be said, the eovemments have proved consid- erate landlords; if they have erred in poUcy, it has been on the side of excessive Mberahty to the tenants. It would probably be safe to say that, in view of the special adaptabihty or the country for stock keeping and wool production (a fact cfemonstrated by the swift recovery of the pastoral industry from the drought of 1902), the Austrahan lands used as sheep runs are the cheapest in the world. Very large areas are purcnasable in western New South Wales, Queensland, and Western Austraha at prices below 20 shil- lings per acre, but few of the fiockowners exhibit any desire to buy. The highest profits are made on leaded land, and the occupiers of all large blocks remote from the coast know that they are beyond the practicable limit of agricultural settlement, and will not, therefore, De disturbed. The present tenure of the 78,786,000 acres of pastoral country in western New South Wales expires in 1943, but it may be anticipated that in most cases the leases will be renewed in some form, as only a small portion of the land is suitable for agriculture. In other divisions of New South Wales the grazing areas are leased for terms of 7, 20, 28, or 40 years. The rents are subject to periodical varia- tion in each case. The Queensland pastoral leases run, according to the particular legislation under which they have been taken up, for 10, 21, 28, or 40 years. For grazing farms of areas up to 60,000 acres the periods are 14, 21, or 28 years. The rents begin at one-half pence per acre, and are liable to change at intervals of 7 years. In South Austraha pastoral leases are issued for 42 years, unless the land is hkely to be required for closer settlement, and in that case the term is fixed at 21 years. Forty-two-year leases are subject to reval- uation of rent at the end of the first 21 years. Pastoral leases in the Northern Territory are granted for 42 vears at a rental of 6 pence per square mile for the first 7 years, 1 shilling for the second period of 7 years, and 2 shilhngs for the third. The rent for the remainder of the term is fixed by vtduation. In Western Austraha all pastoral leases expire at the end of 1928, when there will be a general revaluation of the land. In the southwestern division of this State the government may, after giving 12 months' notice, *' resume'' pastoral lands suit- able for agricultural settlement. In Victoria leases for grazing areas are granted for anv term expiring not later than the end of 1920. Should any of the leased land be wanted for agricultural purposes it can be resumed after two years' notice. The term of grazing leases in Tasmania is 14 years, but these runs are "hable at any time to be sold or occupied by virtue of Hcenses for other than pastoral purposes." LAND TAXATION. The Federal Parhament passed in 1910 a graduated system of tax- ation based on the unimproved value of town and country lands. It was avowedly designed in part to *^ burst up the big estates" (meaning freehold estates), and thus to promote closer settlement. Properties valued at £5,000 and under are exempted. Upon those of greater value than £5,000 the taxation is be^un at 1 penny in the pound (£), and rises b j regular additions of one-half penny each to 6 pence in the pound. This charge is imposed on estates valued at £80,000. On all estates of unimproved value above £80,000 there is a uniform tax of 7 pence in the pound. Owners of Austrahan property who do not reside in the Commonwealth are subjected to an extra 1 penny at each stage of the graduation and excluded from the advantage of the £5,000 exemption. This land taxation, planned and carried into operation by a labor government with strong sociafistic leanings, is to be made the subject of a test case in the Commonwealth High Court. The chief conten- tion of its opponents is that, by combimng land policy with taxation for revenue purposes, the Federal Parhament is exceeding its consti- tutional powers and infringing those reserved to the State legislatures. Each of the States, with the exception of Queensland, maintains a separate land tax. The following is a brief description of these taxes: New South Wales. — Unifonn levy of Id. in the pound (£1) on unimproved value; suspended by arrangement when the municipal councils oi the State fix a general rate of the same amount. » Victoria. — Halfpenny in the pound, with exemption of £250 for urban lands. South Australia. — Halfpenny in the pound to £5,000, and Ijd. above £5,000 on unimproved value; absentees, 20 per cent increase. Western Australia. — Uniform Id. in the poimd on the value of land not improved by the occupier; *d. in the poimd on unimproved value of land on which improvements have been made; absentees, 50 per cent increase. Tasmania. — Halfpenny in the pound on total capital value to £5,000, rising to Id. in the pound on £80,000 and over. The various State land taxes yield an aggregate d £350,000 per annum. The annual land rates imposed by shire and other municipal coun- cils are as follows: New South Wales. — On unimproved value of all land, not lees than Id. nor more than 2d. in the pound. Victoria. — From 6d. to 28. 6d. in the pound on net annual value. Queensland. — Three pence in the pound on unimproved value. South Australia. — Not less than 3d. nor more than Is. 6d. in the poimd; assessment, four-fifths of the gross annual rent at which the land would be let for a term of seven years. Western Australia. — Up to Is. 6d. in the poimd on the annual value of the lands. Tasmania. — Not less than 6d. nor more than Is. 3d. in the pound. All municipal rates are liable to be changed from year to year. THE PADDOCK SYSTEM. Shepherding was a general practice on Australian sheep runs during the early stages of the development of the wool industry. Flocks were then relatively small in size; most of the runs were unfenced, or only partly fenced; in many inland districts unprotected stock was liable to be raided by the aborigines; and little had been done toward the conservation of water and fodder in the drier parts of the country. These conditions have everywhere changed within the past 30 or 40 years. The traditional method of handling the sheep is temporarily Sursued on portions of some new runs in western Queensland and other istricts remote from the coast, but such cases are few and unimpor^ tant. Elsewhere all sheep lands are now fully fenced in and variously subdivided. The employment of shepherds upon any considerable scale may be said to have ceased about 25 years ago. The rapid increase in the size of flocks since 1875 calUed for a more economical system of care and control, the mildness of the climate 478 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDXJIiB K. 479 I til (by rendering the housing of sheep unnecessary, even in the winter months) macfe it nracticalle. and tlie growing wealth of the industrjr quickly justified tne financial expenditure that it entailed. The land policies in the several States do not appear to have had anything to do with the transition; at least they did not visibly retafd it. It came about chiefly through a general recognition of its business advantages. At fii^t only sheep-proof fences were erected. In later veai^ the loss of fodder through the rapid extension of the rabbit pest led to the adoption of wire netting fences in many districts. Large sums of money had previously l^n expended by municipal and other local bodies, with assistance and direction from the State governments, in attempts to exterminate the rabbits by laying poison for them, by the destruction of their cover, and by other means : but in all except the more closely settled agricultural districts (sucn as those of Vic- toria) the results obtained were inadequate and small in proportion to the outlay incurred. In the great pastoral areas of New South Wales, southern Queens- land, South Australia, and the northern districts of Western Australia the first really effective check to the pest was accomplished by the introduction of wire netting for boundary fences. The governments of the lai^er States now promote the construction of these fences by offering loan advances for the purpose to flockowners and farmers alike at from 4 to 5 per cent interest, with easy terms for the repay- ment of the principal. Landowners obtain such assistance from the governments either directly or through local administrative boards. At the same time, and as a further means of encouraging settlement and helping to overcome the rabbits, a number of substantial cross- country *;barrier" fences of wire nettmg have been erected as national undertakings, entirely at State expense. Of these valuable fences there are, according to the latest Oovern- ment reports available in London, 1,397 miles in New South Wales, 2,030 miles in Western AustraUa, and 732 miles in Queensland. The newest and most efficient of the ** barriers," that in Western Australia, which was erected at a cost of £320,000 (including incidental outlay on wells sunk at intervals along the route), divides the sheep country there from the principal agricultural belt and renders particularly important service to the farmers. Where the Government fence runs through pastoral country the occupiers of the lands adjoinins: it are permitted to connect their own fences with it and use it as part of their respective boundaries on payment of an annual rent at the rate of 25s. per mile, or, two flockowners occupying opposite lands, divided by tne Government fence, may share the rent between them. The erection of wire-netting fences by landowners is proceeding steadily in all thinly settled inland districts where rabbits can not be sufficiently checked^ by the destruction of cover, by the use of poison, and other measures. The greatest progress in tins work so tar has been made in New South Wales, the principal wool-growing State. In 1909 the total length of the private netting fences in that State (including division fences) was officially estimated at 71,000 miles, and the aggregate cost to the owners was given at £4,002,696. In Queensland, besides the 732 miles of Government border fences already referred to, there were in 1909, the lands department States, 17,315 miles of wire-netting fences, of which 8,642 miles had been erected by pastoral lessees, 2,824 miles by grazing selectors, and 5,849 miles by local boards which receive State assistance. Since the year 1880 the government of Victoria has spent £521,651 in the destruction of rabbits on pubHc lands in that State, and it has also loaned to local councils and private landowners various sums amount- ing to £245 ,850 for the erection of wire-netting fences. These measures have had the desired effect ; rabbits in Victoria now cause very Httle loss to the farmers and flockowners. The government of the State of South Austraha follows the general practice of lending money to flockownei*s and farmers for the purchase of fencing materials. Official figures showing the amount advanced and the mileage of the fences constructed are not obtainable in London, but the general appearance of settlement in the State, as noted a few months ago, suggests that the landowners there are now erecting rabbit-proof fences at a rate but Httle below that recorded in New South Wales and Queensland in recent years. DIVISION FENCES. The number of the paddock divisions on a sheep run depends usu- ally on the carrying capacity of the land, the proportion of freehold included in the property, and the cost of fencing. The subdivisions are rather more numerous and more substantial on freeholds than on leaseholds, but as a rule the main consideration is carrying capacity. The increased returns obtained from the sheep soon justify the outlay on fencing, whether the land be freehold or held under lease from Government. Exceptions to the general practice are found chiefly where occupation is recent, or where, owmg to long distance from railway communication or to scarcity of timber (for posts), the cost of fencing is well above the average. The tendency wit^hin the past 15 years has been to reduce the size of paddocks. One is frequently told by flockowners that ''the more you subdivide, the more sheep you can carry on the better classes of land." Tliis is, however, a matter of individual judgment; there are probably cases in which the number of the subdivisions is unnecessarily large. Some of the paddocks in New South Wales and Victoria provide for only 400 or 500 sheep. In Queensland, South Austraha, and Western Austraha many of the paddocks hold 20,000 sheep or more. The practice varies very widely. A convenient illustration of this irregularity is furnished by the following particulars of sheep properties in New South Wales (the oldest of the States in respect of settlement, and the most important in wool production) whicn have been advertised for sale in the present year: Location of run. Salisbury Downs Avoca Bourke Do Nortli Riverina.. Cryon Western district. Do Coonamble Do Do Area of run. Acres. 999,120 486,727 340,000 195,000 27,000 18.300 13.000 8,200 12,000 4,000 3,200 Pad- docks. 39 54 16 25 20 6 16 16 10 7 6 Location of run. Glencoe Wee Waa Burrowa Tanworth Nyngan Burren Junction Trundle .. Mudgee Do Dorrigo Area of nm. Acres. 10,000 8,000 6,000 6,100 5,000 3,000 3,500 3,000 1,330 1,280 Pad- docks. 24 8 13 19 4 8 4 15 7 8 I 480 BEK)BT 01* TASIFF BOABD ON SCHEDTJIiB K. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI/E K. 481 i| The first four runs are far inland leaseholds of low carrying capac- ity The Others include freehold land in vaiyinff proportions, and Bome of the smaller runs consist mainlv of freehold. Judicious sub- division f acihtates the classification of sheep and enables the flock- owner to get the best possible results from his pastures. The sheep remain within easy walkmg distance of their water supply. The limitation of their movements saves the grass, and as they raise Mtle dust in the dry weather, the wool is kept clean. In the early days of the industry, when ''shepherding" was uncommon and the sheep were kept moving daily over larger areas, additional men were engaged to look Jter the ewes and pick up weak lambs during the lambing season. The employment of these men termmated with the introduction of fencmg. No special care is now necessary during lambing, except in portions of Western Austraha and bouth AustraUa from wMch dmgoes (wild dogs) have not yet been extermmated Speaking from ample experience m New South Wales, Victoria, and Queensland, before and after the introduction of fences, a well- knowia pastorahst states: ^'In the old days one needed from 70 to 80 men to look after 100,000 sheep. Now from 10 to 20 boundaiy nders, receiving 25s. a week and their 'keep' per man, do the same amount of work, and they make any necessary repau^ to the fences and de- stroy rabbits as weU. On some stations of high carrymg canacity 60,000 sheep can be looked after by four boundary nders. louring the shearing the boundary riders are assisted by a few musterers who at other times are generally kept about the runs at improvement work. One may say that in Austraha as a whole the paddock system has enormously increased the returns from sheep. It has saved labor, given us a higher lambmg percentage, and helped to raise the weight and quahty of the wool. In fact, it is hardly worth whde now to make any comparison between tJbe old svstem and the new. It is not con- ceivable that the old system coulcl have been contmued permanently anywhere in Australia. It had to go— apart from other considered tions^as soon as our flocks began to multiply rapidly. ^ , ^, The number of boundary riders employed is governed, not by the number of sheep to be watched, but by the area of land required for their support. On weU-fenced runs m New South Wales, with a carrvinff capacity reckoned at 3 or 4 acres per sheep, there is usually one Wndary rider for every 20,000 sheep. The manager of one of the leading companies estimates that a nm canying 100,000 sheen can be worked, except during shearing time, by a permanent staff composed as follows: Manager, overseer, bookk;^er (who al^o acts aa «t<>'««^^' ^^ ^J^^f^^A J?^ boundary rider for every 20,000 sheep, one odd-job man, one mamed couple, and two female domestics— eometimes three. A few extra permanent men are, however, required where there is much improvement to be done, such as the sinking of wells, removal of timber, and the building of sheds and yards. At the ^ head station on many of the larger properties one or two mechamcs, capable of repairing automobiles and of working electric-Hghtmg plant, portable endues, and other machinery, are now kept, in addition to the black- simth. The salary of a manager is usually £400 a year on the smaUer runs and £600 on the larger ones, ''keep'' being added in both cases. An overseer is paid from £250 to £300 per annum, with keep, and the bookkeeper and storeman £150 to £200. Mechamcs receive from 30s. to 40s. per week, and the minor workmen are paid on the regular scale, of which some details have been given in the main report. COST OF FENCES. Before the growth of the rabbit pest suggested the adoption of wire netting, sheep runs in Austraha were in most cases inclosed and divided with fences consisting partly of wood and partiy of plain steel wire. In districts where growing timber was plentiful wooden post- and-rail fences were erected, and three or four wires were run through the lower half of the posts. In prairie or "open'' country the rails were dispensed with to save haulage cost, ana the fences were made of wooden posts bearing five or six wires. Fences of this type are stUl the most generally used in all parts of the country where rabbits can be easdy be kept in check without recourse to wire netting. The height of the plain wire fences varies from 3 feet 6 inches to 4 feet 6 incnes. Some flockowners say they find 2 feet 10 inches enough, but the majority prefer 3 feet 6 inches. For the average sheep fence of this class five wires suffice. Where cattle and horses have to be taken into account, as well as sheep, fences of 4 feet 6 nches, with five plain wires and a barbed wire fastened along the top, are used. In fences of both heights the lowest wire is placed 7 inches from the ground and between that wire and the second, third and fourth, counted upward, the spaces are each of 6 inches. The posts are set at from 15 to 20 feet apart in districts where timber is cheap. Where there is scarcity of timber the distance varies widely, up to 50 feet. In these cases stability is maintained by having the wires tightly strained and by the use between the posts of fight droppers to Keep the wires in position. Fences of 5 feet or higher and oearing eight wires are occasionally seen in Austraha, but the special security they are designed to afford is not needed on lands used mainly for sheep grazing. The total cost of a substantial 5- wire fence of No. 8 gauge — i. e., costs of material, transport, and construction combined — is about £25 per mile. That appears to be the average in the greater part of the sheep country, taking Australia as a whole but excluding the inner zone of pastoral settlement. In the latter area, as far as can be ascertained, the outlay runs from £2 to £4 higher, owing chiefly to higher transport and labor charges. But it is impossible to arrive at a satisfactory average or comparison in this case, because the fences in the *^back country" are not uniformly constructed. Some of the landowners there economize by using four instead of ^ve wires; others reduce the gauge of the wire, or save on timber and construc- tion charges by lengthening the ordinary distance between the posts. A common expenditure on ^ood 6- wire fences (material, transport, and construction being combined as before) in New South Wales, Queensland, South Austraha, and Western Australia is £28 to £30 per mile. The maximum, which is very rarely exceeded anywhere, IS £35 per mile. The principal factor of the several which determine the amount of the expenditure on fences in different parts of Australia is timber supply. Where it is fairly easy to obtain posts there is fit tie variation from the average total cost. One well-known wool- grower recently had long stretches of both 5-wire and 6-wire fences erected on his sheep run m the Murchison district, a district in which 32080*'— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 31 482 BEPOKT OF TABIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 483 ! the conditions are typical of those prevaihng in many of the larger pastoral areas occupied under lease by flockowners in Australia. He gives the following particulars of his expenditure: I cost eteel , mile; total cost of fence per mile, £24. 2. Contract price for construction of 6-wire fence, including supply of posts, £18 per mile; cost of No. 10 gah'anized steel wire, with transport as in the other case, £10 per mile; total cost of fence per mile, £28. The posts are 15 feet apart, and the general construction is rather above the average in strength. No. 10 wire is thought to be the best for sheep fences, but No. 8 is more generally used in Australia than any other. . When netting is to be used on sheep lands a four-wire fence with wooden posts is erected, and to this the netting is fastened after being sunk 6 inches in the ground. Generally the netting is of 2} mesh and stands 3 feet above ground. There are some exceptions to this rule of construction. Wliere cheapness is aimed at only three bearing wires are used, and the netting is of 2 i mesh. In some other casesthe netting is IJ mesh, and is erected on four-wire fences with posts and droppers of steel. The total cost — materials and con- struction combined — of wire netting fences over the greater portion of Austraha ranges from £45 to £50 per mile. The cost vanes more than that of plain wire fencing, mainly on account of differences in the quahty and measurement of the netting used. Along the coastal districts of Victoria and New South Wales, where transport charges are comparatively small, good netting fences are built for £35 per mile. The opposite extreme is represented by netting erected on all-steel fences, for owners of high-class properties or around stud paddocks, at a total cost of £60 per mile. Apparently it was fencing of the more expensive class that attracted the atten- tion of the Scottish a^cultural commissioners who visited Australia 18 months ago. Theu: report (p. 226) puts the average cost of wire- netting fences too high in suggesting that it lies between £50 and £60 per mile. The latter outlay, at any rate, is rarely necessary. The expenditure for maintenance of substantial fences of post and wire or wire netting is small in ordinary circumstances. Some flock owners of large experience nut it as low as Is. per mile per annum. The highest sum mentioned by any of the authorities consulted is 2s. 6d. per mile. Generally, it appears, the cost is always a little higher m districts with high rainfall than in dry country. The average "life" of post-and-wire fences is 20 years. This is often exceeded where the construction ia exceptionally good. It is not uncommon in New South Wales and Victoria to see strong wire- netting fences wliich have stood 12 or 15 years without requiring any repairs worth reckoning. Damage caused bv bush fires or floods is infrequent and seldom very serious. The fences are regularly inspected by boundary riders, who combine such work with other duties. One large owner states that 60 miles of his fencing are watched by one boundary rider whose wages and food cost 40s. per week. The only fences on which expenditure for maintenance m considerable are the Government "barrier" fences. In the wilder parts of western Australia, South Australia, and Queensland these fences are liable to damage by wandering aborigines, cattle drovers, and men engaged in getting timber suppues. COST OF LABOR. Under pressure from the Australian Workers' Union, a well- organized and politically influential body which was originally known as the Shearers' Union, and has now 44,000 members, the wages for the principal classes of workmen employed on sheep stations are steadily advancing. A comparison of present rates with those cur- rent in 1901 shows that shearers receive 25 per cent more than they were paid 10 years ago, and in the same period there has been an increase of 12 to 15 per cent in the wages of other station workers. (Some flock owners estimate the increase in shearers' wages at between 30 and 33 per cent.) The employers most affected are owners of large runs in Queensland, western New South Wales, and the northern districts of South Australia. In the two small States — Victoria and Tasmania— rwhere labor is less difficult to obtain and the traveling distances are short, wages have remained up to the present comparatively moderate. Prior to 1907, when the rates were fixed by an award of the Com- monwealth Court of Conciliation and Arbitration, disputes between the masters and men were very common. The chief organizer of the union, now a member of the Federal house of representatives, states in a book recently published that "more strikes have taken place in connection with shearing sheep than in aU of the other Australian industries combined," and that "probably 10,000 since 1886 would be under the number." He refers chiefly to the recur- rence of local strikes affecting the labor of small areas or single sta- tions. The award of 1907 applied to the principal wool-growing States only; it was not considered necessary to include western Australia and Tasmania, owing to the comparative smallness of their production. In western Australia a considerable ^mount of cheap nonunion labor is used — that of the aborigines — ^while in Tasmania many of the small flock owners are independent of hired labor. The rates fixed by the arbitration court were as follows, the award to remain in force three years: For shearing flock wethers, ewes, and lambs in New South Wales, Queensland, the northern districts of South Astralia, and the northwestern comer of Victoria, 248. per 100 shorn. For shearing wethers, flock ewes, and lambs in Victoria (except the northwestern comer), and in the Port Lincoln and southeastern districts of South Australia, 22s, per 100 shorn. For shearing rams over 6 months old, double the rate for ordinary flock sheep. For shearing stud ewes, 5s. per 100 more than the rate for flock sneep. When the employer provided the men with rations, these rates were reduced by 3.3 per 100 in Victoria, and by 3s. 2(1. per 100 in New South Wales, Queensland, and South Australia. The court determined that shed laborers provided with rations by their em- ployers should be paid the foUowing weekly rates: New South Wales: Wool rollers, piece pickers, and penners up, 30s.,- all other shed hands over 18 years of age, 278. 6d.; boys, 20s. Queensland, except Darling Downs and the eastern Maranoa district: All shed handii over 18 years, 30s.; boys, 228. 6d. Darling Downs and eastern Maranoa: Wool rollers, piece pickers, and penners up, 308.; all other hands over 18 years, 278. 6d.; boys, 208. 4o4 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiB K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 485 South Australia, except the southeast comer and the Port Lincoln district: Wool rollers, piece pickers, and penners up, SOs.; all other ahed hands over 18 years, 278. 6d., boys, 20b. ,. ttt t h Port Lincoln district and southeast comer of South Australia: Wool rollers, piece pickers, and penners up, 278. 6d.; ail other shed hands over 18 years, 258.; boys, 17s 6d. Victoria, except the northwest comer: Wool rollers, piece pickers, and penners uj), 27s. 6d ; all other shed hands over 18 years, 258.; boys, 17s. 6d. Northwest Victoria: Wool rollers, piece pickers, and penners up, 30b.; all other shed hands over 18 years, 278. 6d.; boys, 20e. The award further provided that when rations were not supplied free of charge, the wages of shed hands should be increased in Queens- land (except on DarBng Downs and eastern Maranoa) by 18s. per week, and in New South Wales, Victoria, South Austraha, Darling Downs, and eastern Maranoa by 13s. per week. The weekly wages for cooks were from 32s. 6d. to 358., with the alternative of payment according to the number of men working on each station, the rate per man Deing from 3s. to 4s. per week. For wool pressers the rates were (with rations) 30s. per week in New South Wales, South Austra- lia, and Victoria, and 35s. in Queensland; or, where rations were provided by the men, from Is. 4d. to Is. 8d. per bale pressed, workers' further demands. A general increase upon these wages for shearers and shed hands is now sought by the Australian Workers' Union, and an attempt at a direct arrangement with the employers having failed, the Common- wealth Arbitration Court is again to be resorted to. The new de- mands of the union include the following: Rate for flock sheep, 25s. per 100 in all of the States; extra rate for stud ewes to be 6s. instead of 5s. per 100; shed hands (with rations provided in all cases), 42s. 6d. in Queensland, 40s. m New South Wales and South Australia, 37s. 6d. m Victoria and Tasmania; wool pressers. Is. 9d. to 38. Id. per bale. The union is also asking the arbitration court to raise the wages of several classes of station labor not provided for in the award of 1907, nor hitherto touched by am formal agreement between mas- ters and men. The average weekly wages at present paid to per- manent station workers are, accorcfing to an official list, as follows: New South Wales and South Australia : Boundary riders, 208. to 25s. ; musterers, 20s. to 30b.; bullock drivers and handy men, 25s.; stockmen and sheep drovers, 208.; drivers. 20s. to 258.; general station hands, 18s. to 20s.; rabbit destroyers, 20s.; mar- ried couples. £70 to £100 per year. ^ , .^ , 1 * ^- V, ^ Queensland and Western Australia: Boundary nders and general station hands, 20s. to 228. 6d., stockmen, 22s. 6d. to 27b. 6d.; musterera, 308.; drivers, 308. to 40s.; married couples, £90 to £100. Victoria and Tasmania: Boundary riders, musterers, drivers, labbit destroyers, and general station hands, 20s.; cooks and handy men, 25s.; married couples, £70 to £80. Free keep — ^i. e., food and house accommodation — ^is provided for permanent station workers in all of the States. It is estunated that the employers' weekly outlay for rations, per head, is 19s. in Queens- land and a portion of New South Wales; 148. 9d. over the greater part of New South Wales; 9s. to lis. in Victoria, South Austraha, and Tasmania; and 17s. in Western Australia. To this expenditure is added a general weekly average outlay of 4s. per head for housing, light, water, and fuoL The present wages for all of these classes of permanent labor are largely exceeded bv the new list of rates submitted to the arbitration court, and a claim for full " keep ^' is added in each case by £he workers' union. Thus it is proposed that in future the weekly pay of boundary riders shall be 35s. in Queensland and 30s. in each of the other States; musterers, 40s. in Queensland, New South Wales, and South Aus- tralia, and 35s. in Victoria and Tasmania; bullock drivers, 42s. in Queensland (with 8s. extra for long distances) and 35s. in the other States; horse drivers, 40s. in New South Wales and South Australia, 35s. in Victoria and Tasmania, and 42s. in Queensland; stockmen, 35s. in all States; drovers, 40s. in Queensland, New South Wales, and South Australia, and 35s. in Victoria and Tasmania; cooks, 40s. in all States; married couples, £125 in Queensland and £100 in each of the other States. The minimum wage for any class of station labor is 30s., with rations and housing, and the union proposes that all of the rates named shall be paid without regard to the age of the worker. The employers are offering unanimous opposition to the majority of the new rates, and claim a reduction of current wages for several classes of work. They estimate that the new rates would, if granted, increase Queensland's total yearly expenditure on labor by £600,000, and add about £1,500,000 to the annual wages bill of the industry in the Commonwealth as a whole. From a private account supplied by the manager of one of the largest runs in Australia — which is worked in conditions common to the greater part of the inland sheep country of Queensland, New South Wales, and South Australia — it appears that the new union rates would raise the cost of labor on that station by £1,922 per annum. They show, as compared with present wages, an increase of 37 per cent for boundary riders, 80.86 per cent for musterers, 45 per cent for general workers, 46 per cent for drivers, 60 per cent for cooks, and 33 per cent for married couples. The owner of a well-equipped New South Wales run, which carries 150,000 sheep, states that the pro- posed rates would increase his sheariug cost by £750 and his expendi- ture on permanent labor by £1,000, a total of £1,750 per annum. The pastorahsts point out, correctly, that the wages received by shearers are already much higher than those paid in Australia for any other kind of manual labor requiring an equal degree of skill. Within the last few years, since macninery came into general use on the stations, shearers have been able easily to earn 30s. in the regu- lar working day of eight hours. This average is frequently exceeded, and some men earn more than 40s. per day. The record for high- speed machine shearing in an eight-hour day is 316 sheep. At piecework rates this gives a return of £3 16s. per day. The shearers' organization, which is conducted on sociaHstic principles, contends that wages for station work should be determined not so much by the skill required or the conditions in which the work is done as by the profits which the industry is yielding. There has been a general increase in the station owners' returns during the past few years, hence the increased pressure from the union. It can by no means be assumed that the workers would be content should the arbitration court materially disagree with their view. Trade unions in Australia have frequently ignored the decisions of wages boards and the arbitration couit, anci reverted to the strike as a means of enforcing their claims. Labor difficulties in the past 486 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAKB ON SCHEDUIaE K. explain the smallness of the proportion of scoiired wool exported from Australia (see Appendix D) : and the pastorabsts say that their onl^ resource in the event of further hostilities on the part of the workers union will be to dispense with many men who are now employed m minor operations (including the picldng and gradmg of the fleeces). to export the wool as far as possible in an unsorted cond.ition, and thus to leave more of the work to be done by f oreim^ importers. They believe that the loss in returns from the sales which this prac- tice would entail would be more than counterbalanced by the amount saved in wages on the stations. The unionists renly that they will endeavor to prevent such action by asking the arbitration court to decide that the "roustabouts" (shed workers) kept on each station during the shearing shaU not be fewer than the number of shearers employed. EMPLOYMENT OF ABORIGINES. Scarcity of white labor rather than a desire to save in expenditure, accounts for the employment of aborigines on '' back country sheep runs in Western AustraUa. They are found chiefly m the Ji.ast Kimberley, West Kimberley, and Murchison districts. Ihere is difficulty in training the blacks. As a class they are fitful and uncertain workers. Most of them have only recently emerged from a state of savagery. Where the younger men can be induced to work they serve as assistant boundary riders, musterers, and "roustabouts." As shearers they are employed only in case of necessity. White shearers usuaUy refuse to work with them. There is no fixed pay for the aborigines. The average wage of those who assist the permanent station hands appeara to be £13 per annum, with free rations. The flockowners m the three districts named admit that they save in labor expenses by employmg blacks, but the majority agree that the aborigines wiU have to give place to whites as soon as settlement extends through the country. It win be a repetition of experience elsewhere. All over Australia the aborigines— never numerous, and now estimated to nunaber not more than 100,000 in the country as a whole— are declining as a race. Ah^ady they have almost enturely disappeared from the southern half of Western AustraUa. ^ ^ * In the report dated January 16, 1911, the Government protector of abori^es in that State records the results of his latest personal inquiry Into the condition of the nativ^ in the northern pastoral districts. Referring to a current behef that "work can be got out of any natives," he says: This is an absolutely erroneous impreBeion, aa it is the experience of tJ^oe^convereaiit with SS phase of the native question that years of teaching are required before a Strive i^wCth his salt; and toV to make.an adult bush naUve do hard work is only inviting him to leave the place where he intended to stay. * * * Many people Srrler an impression th^t this kind of labor is celling tie «t^f ^^^^^fl^^^i^? ^! TuTtliinp but the figures I have obtained put a very different complexion on the subject fromXt eenemuHbtain^^^^ The fig^es have been BuppUe ON SCHEDUI^ K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 491 i blocks where merinos ha^e been displaced by crossbreds and the carmnff capacity of the land has been increased. i «>, ^^ When the market value of a large pastoral freehold exceeds £4 or £5 per acre, the owner is willing enough a^ a rule ^o ^fP^^e of it either to one of the governments or by voluntary subdivision and private sale. It has become comparatively unprofitable for the grow- W of wool alone. The State expenditure for the purchase of free- holds amounts to £1,579,958 in Victoria, £1,247,000 m New South Wales, £1,208,013 'm Queensland, £1,111,622 m South Australia £131,373 m Western Austraha, and £83,21? m Tasmama. A total of 1,405,738 acres has been acqmred m this way for an outlay oi £5,361,185 durmg the past 10 years. Withm the same penpd large areas of freehold^ land,"^ including 2,000,000 acres m Victoria, have been sold privately to agriculturists Such J^^^.^^^J^^rTttZh at an accelerated rate, as a result of the Federal land tax, of which some particulars have been given m an earher section of this report But in New South Wales and Queensland there are large pastoral freeholds which can not be sold except ?t^ loss because they are situated in districts which have a low ramfall and are d^^ant from the ports. Thus they remain smtable only for grazmg Some are now worth less than the average pnce, 20s. per acre at which they were purchased from the State governments. Nearly ihe whole of these properties, estimated to constitute one-sixth of the pastoral freehofds^in Austraha, are mortgaged for .amounts repr^«^tmg between one-half and two-thirds o! their improved value. The Federal land tax, if not speeddy amended mil operate with crushing effect upon their owners!^ In portions of New feouth Wales where the can^g capacity of the land is low, it wiU be equivalent to a tax of 2s. per head^of the flock slieep niamtamed on freeholds. It w^^^ absorb the whole of the balance ol annual profit left after payment of interest on loans. In present circumstances, therefore, these estates are commercially unprofitable. Their position is without par^aM m the histoiy of the AustraUan wool mdustry, and involves such obvious hardship that it can not remam long without amehoraUon. THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTEY. To what extent, it may be asked, is Australia capable of increasing its production of wool, and of merino wool m particular ? It will be of service to mention a few additional facts which bear upon this question. In some recently published references to the pastoral mdustry in Austraha one finds a behef that lis further development must proceed at a relatively slow r^^e; and excessive imporU appeal to be attached to the effect upon the mdustry of the purchase ahd subdivision of freehold estates for agricultural settlement. On the latter pomt two or three remarks may be made. 1 be tu^t is mat the total wea of the estates subdivided is mfimtesimal m compw'ison with the aggregate of the new pastoral lands which are now beinff taken up alewhere under lease or license, notably m Queensland and Western Austraha. Secondly, it should be remembered-the fact has been referred to m an earlier section of this report— that m manv mstances woolgrowing is alternated with agriculture m closely settled districts. When an estate is cut up ^lie wool poduced on it for many years is missed from the markets. But after an mterval the new settlers on the subdivided land begin to keep sheep, and the big clip is replaced by several small clips which in the aggregate ultimately equal it, or even exceed it, in quantity. The cessation of the original supply is noticed because it is sudden. The new supply, coming gradually, is often overlooked except by brokers at Melbourne and Sydney and by others directly interested. The increase in "farmers' lots" of both merino and crossbred wools is proceeding rapidly in the State of Victoria and in a slightly lesser degree in New South Wales. These wools are at the same time improving in quality and in the method of their preparation for the marKet. As most of the freehold estates acquired for agricul- tural settlement have been subdivided only within the last five years, the new development of sheep farming has not yet had time to make its capabilities generally apparent. As far as one can judge at present, the only marked ana permanent effect of the change in the occupation of the lands will oe not a serious decline in the total quantity of wool produced, but substitution in many cases of cross- bred or of "robust" merino for the finer grades of merino hitherto grown on the lands in question. A prominent American buyer, speaking from personal observation at the first and second series of tne 1910-11 sales in Austraha, states that the wools at both series showed "deterioration" in comparison with those of previous j^ears' clips from which he had made purchases. His unfavorable criticism was specially applied to Victorian, Mudgee, New England, and Tas- manian wools. Experienced pastoralists and brokers say that the word "deterioration," which others have also used, is misapplied; that what is actually taking place is a decrease in the supply of certain kinds of fine merino regularly looked for by American and European buvers. Of other grades of merino wool there is every probability that there will he for many years a continuously in- creasing supply. The Australian wool industry, in which the aggregate capital directly engaged is estimated at £260,000,000^ has been brought to its present dimensions by a people still small m numbers — the total population of the Commonwealth is less by 300,000 than that of Greater New York — and while cheap communication with most of the great inland prairies remains entirely lacking, agriculture (in the sense of cereal production, dissociated from sheep farming) is making comparatively slow progress. The figures given in Appen- dix J show the vast extent of^unoccupied territory in Australia. The capacity of the existing leaseholds will be increased within the next 10 years, when the risk of carrying the full complement of stock shall have been diminished by the estabhshment of better communication with the well-watered districts, and it is certain that the same increase of transport facilities will cause a swift extension of settlement on vacant lunds which are at present useless on account of their long distance from the ports. Queensland is proceeding to spend £6,- 000,000 and New South Wales £4,250,000 on the building of inland railways, most of which wiU be of special service to the pastoralists. The extensions in the north will make a total of 1,730 miles of track. On their completion no part of Queensland will be more than 100 miles from a railway and no sheep run more than 50 miles. Meanwhile arrangements are being made for starting the construc- tion of two transcontinental lines— one to establish communication through Central Australia between Adelaide and Port Darwin and the other to link.up the railway systems of South Australia and Western 492 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDUO: K. Australia. Both of these great undertakings will give a pronounced stimulus to the pastoral industry. In the Northern Territory alone 16,000,000 acres of rich table-lands, hitherto almost useless through their isolation, will be made available. The new railways will also add largely to wool production in the northern district of South Australia and in the eastern division of Western Australia. Bv far the greater part of the new country about to be opened up by raflway construction in Australia is within low ramfall areas. Being there- fore unsuitable for close agricultural settlement, it will remain perma- nently in the occupation of pastoralists. The bulk of the wool grown by them will be merino of the long-staple, robust variety. Artesian water supplies will supplement the conserved rainfall m most of the dry districts. Many additions are being made to these supplies. Tests recently carried out by the Government of Western Australia have proved that artesian water can be supplied to stock in the northern part of that State across 1,000 miles of land hitherto re- garded as a desert. , , . . i. , t. i. Woolgrowing on inland leaseholds m Australia has often been describexl as a ''gamble" from the financial point of view. Such it must always remain to some extent, but the risks are everywhere being substantially diminished, while the profits continue sufficiently high to stimulate enterprise. The losses caused to the pastoral industry by the great drought which terminated in 1902 have been estimated at £ 130,000,000. That disaster taught lessons of prudence which can never be forgotten. The industrv is now bemg worked on safer lines, and the protective measures taken by those engaged in it will soon be strengthened by the Government railway and water- conservation policies. In the opinion of men who have had a long acquaintance with the industry, Australia should ultimately be capable of carrying at least 150,000,000 sheep, while providing for a greatly increased export of mutton. Appendix A. Number of sheep in the Australian States from 1884 to 1909. [Figures taken from tlie CommoB wealth budget statement of 1910-11.] New South Wales. .884. 885. 886. ,887. .888. 889. 830. 891. 892. 893. 8M. 89t>. 897. 898. 000. 901. 902. 903. 904. 905. 906. 907. 908. 909. 31,660,321 37,820,906 39,169,304 46,965,152 46,503.438 1,672,068 1,683.956 1,792.481 1,672. USS 1,597.053 1,657,460 1,583.561 1.729,394 1,744,800 1,728.053 1,734,761 REPOKT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Sheep in the Australian Commonwealth from 1884 to 1909. 493 Year. 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1894 1895 1896 Number. 61,570,138 67,491,976 69,568,993 80,510,360 80,793,548 85,809,405 97,881,221 106,421,068 103,272,068 99,539,889 100,411,461 90,689,727 90,615,847 Year. 1897.. 1898- . 1899.. 1900- . 1901.. 1902.. 1903- . 1904.. 1905.. 1906.. 1907.. 1908., 19091 Number. 82,643,578 79,237,002 72,347,509 70,602,996 72,040,211 53,668,347 56,932,705 65,823,918 74,403,704 83,687,655 87,650,263 87,043,266 91,667,881 I A later official calculation gives the total for 1909 as 92,044,874. Appendix B. ProduHion of wool in the Australian States, 1900 to 1909. Years. 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 New South Wales. Pounds. 243,543,500 313,812,284 222,422,562 230,736,191 254,137,939 302,494,870 332,380,646 375,224,448 344,550,707 379,388,356 Victoria. Pounds. 49,028,000 86,786,834 78,498,152 61,866,675 86,125,619 74, 746, 552 78,258,113 120,017,787 93,999,156 112,102,446 Queensland. Pounds. 65,141,000 72,405,110 45,350,633 65,606,362 66,843,252 72,323,361 88,068,089 104,173,964 115,283.309 127,631,834 South Aus- tralia. Pounds. 35,677,400 44,552,586 42,792,909 44,399,971 40,207,376 41,221,437 48,928,116 57,830,794 62,040,731 66, 415, 539 Western Australia. Tasmania. Pounds. 9,328,800 15,304,648 14,633,006 14,644,941 13,963,693 19,523,003 17,437,645 22,013,541 22,450,624 30,048,360 Pounds. 6.675.900 10,270,199 9,616,446 6,867,427 12,320,563 11,752,777 12,600,822 10,878,478 13,859,765 12,550,598 Total production of wool in the Australian Comm/ynwealth, 1900 to 1909. Years. 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904 Amount. Pounds. 409,394.600 543,131,661 413,313,708 414,120,5(57 473,598,442 Years. 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 Amount. Pounds. 522,062,000 677,673,431 690,139,012 642,184,282 718,037,132 Appendix C. Exports oj wool from the Commonwealth of Australia, 1900 to 1909. Years. 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 (id months) Greasy. Quantity. Pounds. 280,043,876 385,191,184 286,579,459 263,419,710 339,219,779 380,240,424 415,353,690 512,756,896 471,832,275 529,020,213 340,654,716 Value. £9,633,328 11,673,176 9,595,482 9,600,599 13,139,941 16,674,616 17,547,037 22,928,011 18,027,930 20,603,450 13,612,417 Scoured and washed. Quantity. Pounds. 65,678,986 66,368,856 49,374,477 61,143,320 55,911,046 56,775,423 64,889,295 72,318,065 70,915,494 73,585,927 59,633,588 Value. £3,715,113 3,561,528 3,147,531 4,396,631 3,975,393 4,247,700 5,098,732 5,963.819 4,886,730 4,821,022 4,070,987 494 BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABB ON SCHEDUI^ K. Note on Appendix C— This was specially prepared for this report in December, 1910, by the statistical branch of the Commonwealth customs department. The Commonwealth statistician's Production Bulletin No. 4, received in London in May, 1911, gives on page 39 the "net export of wool" in 1909 at 676,520,093 pounds; but this does not a^ree with the "net export" of wool published on page 43 of the Bame official bulletin. The total given there is 602,454,221 pounds, which differs but slightly from the total supplied by the Conmionwealth customs department. Appendix D. Commonwealth wool exports in bales. tCompfled by Dalgety & Co.] Year. 1900-1901 1901-2... 1902-3... 1903-4... 1904-5... 1905-«... 1906-7... 1907-8... XinjRSr'ij. m • 1909-10.. Total ex- ports. Bales. 1,222,990 1,267,936 1,014,768 994.796 1,218,969 1,454,820 1.663,130 1,620,890 1,796,347 1,921,507 Merino. Quantity. Per cent. Baks. 1,027,312 84 1,103,104 87 872,700 86 856,525 86 1,072,693 88 1,265,693 87 1,446,923 87 1,393,965 86 1,562,822 87 1,652,666 86 Xbd. and strong wools. Quantity. Bales. 195,678 164,832 142,068 139,271 146,276 189, 127 216,207 226,925 233,525 269,039 Per cent. 16 13 14 14 12 13 13 14 13 14 Tbe average net weight per bale is 335.5 pounds. Appendix E. Local prices of Australian merino wools for 10 years. [Compiled by Dalgety & Co.] 190&-1901 1901-2... 1902^... 19-7... 1907-8... 1908-9... 190nO.- Gfeasy (av- erage qual- ty), average price per pound. i. 11 10| 11 Hi 12 *^ 11 Superior greasy, high- est prices per pound. 13 131 171 10 17f 17| 18^ 20| 19 21 Scoured (av- erage qual- ity), average prices. i. 14| 15! 19^ 19 ao 21i 2ll 19) 181 2ll Appendix F. DistribvMon of wool sold in principal AiLStralian markets. [Expressed in percentages.] Season. 190&-6 1906-7 1907-8 1908-9 1900-10 New South Wales. I 12| 11{ 11 19i Hi 76J 77i m 711 79} s Victoria. 88 34 3' 34 30 » i 47 429 47i 46 52 11 4 161 5 8i i 13 e m H South Australia. 471 47f 43 38 43 3^ 45 441 n I' 31 3i Queensland. I •a 17 49 34 21 a I 72 52} 49i 581 67 09 H i BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUI.E K. 495 Percentage distribtUion of total Australian sales. 1905-6. 1906-7. 1907-8. 1908-9. 190^10 United Kingdom. Per cent. 23} 23( 23f 26| 27 21J Continent. Per cent. 63i 601 63} 61 66 United States. Percent. Other des- tinations. Percent. 81 8 Appendix G. Approximxite prices of Australian wools in principal markets at the close of the 1909-10 season. Price. NEW SOUTH WALES. Greasy merino: E xtra super fleece Super fleece Good fleece Inferior and heavy conditioned fleece Super lambs Good Iambs Medium lambs Heavy conditioned burry lambs. . Greasy crossbred fleece: Fme quality, extra special Medium quality Coarse quality Scoured merino: Super combing Good Fair average Inferior QUEENSLAND. Greasy merino: Extra super fleece Super fleece Good fleece Inferior fleece Super lambs Good lambs Medium lambs Short and heavy lambs Scoured merino: Super combing Good Fair average fleece Inferior fleece VICTORIA. Greasy merino:| Extra super combing (western district ) Special lots Super combing (western district). Super combing (other districts). . Good combing Pence. 15 -16 13 -14 11 -12J 8-10 14J-15* 12 -13 9 -10 6i-8 14H6i 10-11 7-8 24-25 22-23 18-20 16-17 14H5i 12|-13| 11 -12 9 -10 11 -12 9H0J 8-9 6i-7J 24 -25 22 -23 20J-21i 16H7J 17-19 21 16-17 15-16 12 -14i Price. VICTORIA— continued. Greasy merino — Continued : Medium to inferior combing (free). Inferior combing (burry) Extra super lambs Super lambs Good lambs (free) tiferior and burry lambs Western Victorian extra super comeback or fine crossbred (568 to 58s quality) Super comeback or fine crossbred (56s to 58s quality) Good comeback (free) Inferior and burry Super crossbred, medium quality, viz, 46s (western district) Good average Lincoln (40s quality) Super crossbred lambs Good crossbred lambs Medium crossbred lambs Scoured merino: Extra super combing Super combing Medium combing Seedy, burry, inferior fleece SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Greasy: Best merino fleece Good merino fleece Inferior, wasty, burry merino Best comeback and JGLne crossbred fleece Good comeback and fine crossbred fleece Inferior comeback and fine cross- bred fleece Best crossbred fleece, medium to strong quality Scoured: Best merino fleece Good merino fleece Inferior merino fleece (burry or seedy) Pence. lOJ-lli 8-10 23 15 -17 12 -13 6-7J 17-18 15 -161 13H4 9-10| 13-15 8-9 13 -16 11 -12 8H0 24-25 22 -23i 20-21 17-18 1331-15 10i-12i 7J-8J 12J-13J 11 -12 8i-10 9J-11 22 -234 20-2l| l^-18 496 EEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABD OK SCHEDULE K. For comparison with the foregoing table the foUowing figures are fven from tlie Commonwealth statistician's "Production Bulletin o. 4/' Class of wooi New South Wales. JHivl-A.l'* mum. Greasy merino: Extra super Superior Good Average Wasty and inferior Extra super Iambs Super lambs Good lambs Average lambs Inferior lambs Greasy crossbred: Extra super comebacks Super comebacks Fine crossbred Medium crossbred Coarse crossbred and Lincoln Superior fine crossbred lambs Good crossbred Iambs Coarse and Lincoln lambs Scoured: Extra super fleece Super fleece Good fleece Average fleece Mini- mum. 191 d. ]^ '^ 6 13 12 9 74 144 1? Victoria. Maxi- mum. 7. 6 11 8i 6 24i 21} 20 17 Mini- mum. d. 18 16 13 12 n 21 15 Hi 9 5 17 15 13 10 13 11 8 24 22 20 19 South Australia. Maxi- mum. d. 15 111 6 Hi 94 8 4 l^ 12 13 lOi 13 13 10} 91 21i 20 18i 16| Mini- mum. Tasmania. Maxi- mum. 17i 6 5 14i 14 13. 1», lOi 7 Mini- mum. Note.— Similar information not available lor Queensland and Western Australia. Appendix H. Exports o/mutton and lamb from the Commonwealth of Australia. d. 14 ? 12 12 10 8 8 5 Years. mm 1901 1902 1903 XVLtx 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 Mutton. Quantity. Pounds. 66.846,864 64,175,093 44,105,600 35,753,124 47,863,532 86,858,344 90,692,385 109,227,757 91,607,614 116,915,639 Value. £667,738 726,186 543,422 489,934 657,361 1,111,969 1,095,120 1,377,502 1,219,107 1,231,035 Value of sheepskins exported. £619,775 687,320 1,077,767 1,070.662 847,288 1,336,323 1,614,463 1,848,433 1,260,878 1,748,952 KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI«E K. 497 Appendix I. Typical pastoral areas in Australia, held under government leases. NEW SOUTH WALES. Holdings. Momba Yancannla Kallara Corona Albemarle Lake Victory Netley Tolamo Kinchega Moorara Salisbury Downs Dunlop Macnamurtee Kilfera Nelyambo Nundoro Mount Gipps Nocoleche Poolamacca Maranoa Area. Rent per acre. Acres. 8. d. 1,080,4€2 0.15 1,043,872 .10 988,228 .21 827, 458 .16 717,292 .15 661,436 .25 650,504 .20 635,730 .80 503,086 .25 503,170 .10 495, 801 12.50 435,907 .62 415, 842 .15 411,398 .12 404,233 .80 416,064 12.50 363,414 .18 343,600 .80 351,493 .18 309,636 .32 Holdings. Urisino Morden Boorooma Wonorainta.. Trida Manfred Billilla Carnpimg Coan Downs.. Winbar Carrong Cultowa Mundi Mundi Milroy Murtee Lila Springs.. Mossgiel Tintinallogy. . Tupra Til Til Area. Acres. 313,735 295, 325 250,057 293,185 264, 162 277,266 224,990 200.000 221, 672 279, 770 258, 781 198,034 155, 280 153,991 176,660 152,022 128, 127 143,392 130,417 164,933 Rent per acre. s. d. 0.80 .80 L26 12.50 .10 12.50 .20 .13 .15 .38 .63 .22 .30 1.50 .33 .30 .40 .19 .$7 .46 QUEENSLAND. Holdings. Sandringham Nockatunga Milo Goodwood Glenormiston Davenport Downs Durham Downs . . Palparara Warbreccan Barclay Downs. . . Lawn Hill Kyabra Comongin Thurulgoona Uanda Tinnenburra Bertila Wellshot Mount Marlow — jfvr6st. Sq. miles. 3,032 2,900 2,800 2,223 2,100 2,246 2,716 2,566 2,180 1,748 J l,654.i 1,592 1,417 1.265 1,2(X) 1,546 970 962 912 Rent per square mile. «. d. 3 8 15 28 5 7 3 5 6 17 4 5 13 6 10 15 27 16 6 25 5 60 19 Holdings. Boorara Tilbooroo Beechal Currawinya Dynevor Downs. . . Surbiton Bowen Downs Yarron Vale Mount Garnish Woolerina Natal Downs Beaufort Boothulla Tocal Mount Hulton Noondoo Darr River Downs Homeboin Aiea. Sq. miles. 850 883 805 755 747 744 714 669 626 601 600 573 552 529 526 444 418 450 Rent per square mile. s. d. 13 2 14 6 15 6 16 15 15 34 6 12 6 34 3 16 20 12 13 6 30 25 45 47 3 20 WESTERN AUSTRALIA. Location of holding. Kimterley Peak Hill.. Do.... Gascoyne. . Do.... Lyndon . . . Gascoyne. . Bulga Lyndon.. . Ashburton PeakHilL. Yalgoo Area. Acres. 538,400 518,000 420,000 369,000 300,246 343.000 332,900 300,000 295,000 290,000 275,000 240,000 Total annual || rent. £ s. d. 269 18 259 210 185 180 171 10 166 10 37 10 147 10 145 34 7 6 120 Location of holding. Balladonia Peawah Coolgardie Windell WestPilbarra.. Victoria Do East Murchison Gascoyne Yalgoo Fitzroy Dungan Area. A cres. 248,344 247,000 250,000 239,000 201,600 190,400 117,500 100,000 175,560 100,000 164,000 114,000 Total annual rent. £ s. d. 37 6 122 10 31 5 60 101 10 59 12 6 8 88 12 10 82 57 i Per section. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, G2-2, vol 1 32 498 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDXTUS K. Appendix J. Condition of the public estate in Australia. State. Aro*. Alienated and in process of aliena- tion. Held under lease or lioea.se from the Crown. Unoccupied. Aim. Per cent. Area. Per cent. Area. Per oant. New South Wales Victoria Acrei. 198,638,080 56,245,760 429,120,000 243,244,800 335,116,800 624,588,800 16,777,600 Acres. 51,265,068 27,964,666 21,309,360 9,651,181 473,809 14,002,938 5,718,146 25.80 40.72 4.97 3.97 .14 2.24 34.09 Acres. 129,150,578 15,955,346 273,307,365 102,617,100 103,419,428 161,255,807 1,505,774 65.02 28.36 63.69 42.20 30.86 25.82 8.97 Acres. 18,222,434 12,325,750 134,503,266 130,968,519 231,223,563 499,329,965 9,553,680 9.18 21.92 31.34 53.83 69.00 71.04 56.94 Queensland ■ South Australia Northern Territory Western Australia Ta.u j®^?™!^^ ** ^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^ shillings per acre ($6.25 to $10). In Khodesia the size of farms reported is from 200 to 6,000 acres, the pnce from 60 cents to $4.86 an acre. Much of this latter is high- grade farming land, near the railroads. Cape Promnce. — Land values reported from 24 cents per acre for the very lowest grade of grazing land to $19.46 for the highest class of farming land. Rentals of Cape lands vary in proportion to the value of tne lands. In the Transvaal (a tract of 5,600 acres), marked "good grazing, weU timbered, not much surface water" is offered for sale or lease by the Government at the following terms: Selling price, 63 cents per acre, 20 years' time allowed; leasing price, 5-years^ lease: 7 cents per ^^\r^A7^^ ^ ^®*^' ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^' I^ ^os* of the States of the bouth Aincan Union the maximum acreage any one person can lease or buy is now 2,000 acres. The present Government is doing much to encourage an advanced agriculture and an improved form of stock breeding in South Africa. Ihis effort is opposed by a part of the farming classes and welcomed by another part. The various diseases of animals in South Africa are the worsi barriers to improvement. Several forms of ticks convey contagion to cattle. Sheep are aflaicted with bluetongue, stomach worms, and in some parts with other diseases difficult to combat. Especially on the lower lying lands is it difl&cult to grow sheep, or even to grow cattle. Along the coast region are many stock diseases. This con- dition becomes worse as one proceeds north. There are regions, also, where only the native wooUess sheep thrive, and improved breeds will hardly exist. It would seem that sheep will not extend into the north except on the highest plateaus. Fencing will no doubt greatly aid the fight against disease since it will put a stop to its spread, and enable each man to clean his own particular land and flock. Fencing is now being undertaken but is difficult because of the treeless condi- tion of the country. The farmers now use stone for posts. Maize growing is an important industry in pauch of South Africa. The exports of African maize are rapidly increasing in volume. American varieties of maize thrive there, and American methods of cultivation are being taught the farmers. It is doubtful if a great sheep-growing industry can be built up in any region adapted to the growing of maize. The reason is that witn a climate suitable to maize growing there is a rapid development of dangerous internal parasites that afflict sheep. This fact has important bearing on the probable future of the sheep industry in Soutn Africa. While Africa has many native sheep that produce little or no wool, yet they are a source of considerable profit because the wool- less types thrive and fatten readily and mutton is there commanding a gooa price. In 1910 Persian lambs 5 months old sold fat for $4 each, and ewes fat for $4.50. Labor. — ^There are now in United South Africa many more negroes than whites, and practically all the labor is done by negroes. The quahty of this labor varies; there are shepherds classed as ^^very good and more who ''need to be watched like children." There is very little immigration to South Africa because the land is so nearly all taken and because white labor can not compete with black. Wages in South Africa for blacks on farms are very low. In the Transvaal, for labor and food, per man, about $120 per year. For shearing, per hundred sheep, the rates are from $1.25 to $2.50. In Natal the wages paid to adult negro laborers in about $4.87 per month, with food. In the Cape Colony wages for Kaffirs range from $2.43 to $7.30 per month, with food, and sometimes an entire family is employed, when the wages will be about $5 per month. Just how efficient tliis labor is in comparison with labor in the United States we have no means of exactly stating. All reports estimate that it is not more than half as effective, man for man. White labor in the Cape Colony is paid from $14.60 to $24.30 per month, with board. The white labor is employed for the higher classes of labor, such as overseers and shearers. The Kaffirs are almost the only class of herders used. In the Orange Free State negro herders are paid at the rate of between $2.50 and $3.75 per month, with board; ordinary labor about the farms, $5 per month, and board. In Rhodesia native herders are paid an average of $1.21 per month, with board. Farm laborers who shear receive from $9.73 to $24.33 per month. li I 512 REPOBT OP TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDUI-E K. Summary of Mhjt, Cape Province Transvaal Natal Orange Free State Rhodesia Native herd- ers and la- borers (per month, witL board). 12.43-17.30 10.00 2.50-3.75 1.21 Farm labor. Native. S4.87 5.00 White. S14.60-$24.30 NUMBEB OF SHEEP. The present tendency of the industry is to increase slowly, since in the north it has not been proven that merino or, in fact, any sort of wooled sheep will thrive; and along the coast lands no sheep thrive except in the south. At the present time the movement to better the breeding of such flocks as they have is strong. Effort is being made to clean the land of scab and on December 31, 1910 there were 2,866 flocks ordered to be dipped for scab. The distribution of sheep in Soutli Africa is as follows (1910): Cape Orange Free State, 1909. Transvaal, 1910 Natal, 1909 Woded. 12,500,000 6,059,813 2,019,614 U, 068, 996 Bastard. 6,500,000 1,561,249 827,464 1 Wooled and bastard. Size ofjloclcs, — Statistics relative to the size of the South African flocks are not obtainable for all the States. Of the total of approximately 30,000,000 sheep in the union 19,026,884 are in the Cape Province. An oflScial report covering the sheep in this Province on January 1, 1911, shows that there are 117,646 separate flocks with an average of 161 to each flock. The lamb crop for 1910 for these sheep amounted to 4,840,709, or an average of 41 to the flock, an approxmaate 25 per cent lamb crop. Chardder of African wools, — Tlie Persian sheep have a coarse, hairy wool, used as a carpet wool. Crossed with menno tliis makes a good crossbred wool, especially the second cross with merino rams. Kambouillets in South Africa seem to thrive and retain their excellence of form, but it is stated that their wools do not hold their character there. Australian merinos change character, also, though their wools are said to be delightfully soft, fine texture, suitable for worsteds. There is tendency of Afncan wools to become short in fiber. The major part of the South African wools are sent to Germany, France, and England. Prices of wools. — The prices received by the growers range from 9 cents to 15 cents per pound. There is some wool good enough to bring 18 cents per pound. This would often be crossbred wool. Natal produces wool of superior character, quite largely influenced by importations of American Rambouillet and Vermont merino rams. Here wools have sold as high as 24 cents to 27 cents per pound. All wool is sold unwashed. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table of wool prices. 513 Unscoured. Aver- ages for year 1910. Natal Rhodesia Orange Free State CapeProvince Per pound do do Cents. 15 12-15 12-15 13-16 Diseases.—Scoh is prevalent all over South Africa, together with other troubles due to intestinal worms. At the present time the Government is making a strong effort to stamp out scab through wholesale dippings, which is meeting with a great degree of success. Losses from disease and drought in the Cape Province amounted to 1,297,496 head in the year 1910, or about 6 per cent. Droughts. — The climate varies somewhat, but as a rule it is somewhat similar in character to the American Southwest, with periods of great heat and drought followed b}^ seasons of fine rains and excellent feed. Predatory animals.— The jackal seems to take the place of the American coyote among the sheep owners of South Africa. Some fencing is done to protect the sheep from their inroads, but for the most part the herders are presumed to protect the sheep from attack as in the United States. , . * . ,... •. Miscellaneous costs.— A study of South African conditions shows that the miscellaneous cost under which the sheep grower m that region operates are much the same as in the United States. Dipping for scab, fighting predatory animals, taxes on his lands (there is no tax on the sheep themselves), shearing expenses, haulage of wool from shearing pens to shipping points, feed to bucks m cer- tain seasons, the upkeep of wells and dams for furmshmg water to the flocks, repairs upon improvements, fences, and wagons, are all found in the reports of operating costs from that country, and in general they vary but little from the same costs m America. What variance there is, is due to the lower cost of the labor used by South African owners. -. , i j j u ^i. Maintenance.— The carrying capacity of the land used by the South African sheep owner is of much inferior grazing capacity to that used by the AustraUan grower. It may be compared to that used by the Wyoming sheep owners outside of the summer ranges, m the mountains. No winter or other feeding of the flocks beyond the feed for rams at some parts of the year is reported excepting in the Province of Natal where occasionally some feeding of rough stuffs is done during the winter. * • x Taking the South African region as a whole the cost of mainte- nance for one sheep for a year is approximately 35 cents, slightly above the cost for AustraUa, but below that of western United States. Shearing.— In Orange Free State the cost of shearmg is given at from 1 i cents to 1 i cents per head with board. In the Cape Province 2J cents per head with board. The average wages paid to the labor required about the shearing pens, mostly native, is 2 shillings (50 cents) per day with board. Graders are now being employed in some sheep- 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1- ^ 514 BEPORT OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUOI K. shearing pens at wages from $25 to 140 per month and board. The average cost of board per day for this kind of labor is stated to be 1 shilling (25 cents). Taking into account all necessary labor and the board, together with the necessary wool sacks, the average shearing cost per head for South Africa does not exceed 5 cents. Provisions. — As stated above, the average cost of food for the ordi- nary native labor employed about sheep farms and shearing pens does not exceed 25 cents per day. The food furnished Kaffir herders and their families consists of 2 bushels of corn meal, 2 old ewes, and 4 pounds of sugar per month — a cost probably not exceeding 10 cents per day. Sale of surplus stock and mutton. — In the Cape Province fat ewes are reported as selling for $4.50 per head 'and fat lambs 5 months old at $4. Old ewes are readilv sold for local slaughter at from $2.50 to $3 per head, according to their flesh. At the present time the demand for mutton is so strong that there is a gooa profit in breeding the woolless sheep for mutton alone. Wliere the sheep combine both wool and mutton the profits must naturally be much greater. Cost of production. — The average shearing per head is estimated at 6 pouncfs, with an average price received by the growers of 13i cents per pound. With an average valuation on breeding sheep of $2.50 per head and an investment, excluding lands in improvements and equipment per head of not over 40 cents per year, and taking into account the low cost of wages and provisions, the moderate leasing values of their grazing lands, the inild winters which do not demand other food for the ammals than that found on the ranges, the strong demand for mutton of all classes, it is evident that the African woolgrower is able to meet all his expenses from the sale of his surplus stock and mutton, leaving the wool as a clear profit on his mvestment. One flock owner in Rhodesia reports he can sell his wool at 12 cents per pound and make money. Capital invested.— "The value of breeding ewes in large bands is reported to average $2.50 for ordinary young ewes; crossbreds and grades of the woolless breeds are quoted at from $1 to $1.50 per head. The necessary investment for equipment and improvements upon a leased range capable of supporting 6,000 sheep is reported as follows: Horses and other domestic animals required for handling sheep, $150 to $300; fencing, houses, sheds, corrals, wells, dams, pumps, and other equipment, $2,000; fencing costs between $200 and $250 per mile. This makes ap average investment for such purposes of approx- imately 40 cents per head. Ten head of horses are required to care for these sheep. One herder for each 600 head of sheep. Conclusion.-^Souih. Africa is a region containing much land adapted to sheep farming. This land seems to be nearly all occupied at the present time, but not fully stocked. There is a probabihty of some expansion in Rhodesia, though in the north merinos have railed and woolless sheep seem best adapted to the climate and soil. The sheep farmer of Soutn Africa has often to combat disease, coarse grasses, wild beasts, and ignorant, unskilled labor. He has the BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 515 cooperation of his government, but not always of his backward He is importing merinos from America, Europe, and Australia, and is beginning to carry on a far better system of slieep breeding. Both amount and quality of African wools will be increased. The tendency is toward greater output of merino wools. Of labor the South African woolgrower has plenty at cheap rates, but of low value compared with labor elsewhere. Land values and rentals are somewhat higher than in Australia, but lower than in America. CHmatic conditions fairly favorable compared with AustraHa, but better than in America. Losses from disease and predatory ammals with cost of fighting them about the same in South Africa as the United States, but generally much less than in Australia. Prices for wool for year 1910, from 12 to 16 cents; rates of interest, 6 per cent to 6 per cent — about the same aa in AustraHa, but lower than in the western United States. PART IL RAW WOOLS -ADDENDA. NOTES ON WOOL-GKOWING IN SOUTH AMERICA. 517 w A PATAGONIAN ESTANCIA HOUSE. CROSSBRED ROMNEY SHEEP IN SOUTH AMERICA. GEHEEAL CONDITIONS IN SOTJTH AMERICA. Second only in importance to Australasia in the Production of sheeTrndVool in competition in the United States i^arket South AScTprrents conditions differing matenally f rom those prevaU- b^ on the other continents, and in order that these «^^t be fully Koped an agent of the board, chosen for his special knowledge of flolkhusbandrlin various parts of the rf^V^r^SiXSic rareful studv of the iadustry as it exists m the Argentine KeMDut. andlhe adj^ent pastoral regions of Uruguay on the north and-Pata. ^"Pr'oc^fe'direct to Punta Arenas on the Straite of MageUan, a ^Urfn offinterritorv. where he obtained valuable data from the grYat coSatioXo^ asVe Sodedad Explotodora, an organ^a- tbn oyJng more than a million sheep, be sailed to Rw ^a feg"^' exploring tie region, adjacent to that P°'^/^,t>sequently ca^^ ^ Santa Craz, San Julian, Deseado Ri^fda-^^, and f "f*^^**!"^'^^^ the Province of Chubut, thence by rail to Trelew, 'l^f nee by coacb and horse up the Chubut Valley and back to the coast tbence to Port Antonio m Eio Negro, and from there by ?teamer to Buenos^Mres. From the capital he went to Parana, Romano SantaFeGuaUeyguy Concordia Corrientes, Kesistencia, and south agam by Kosano to Buenos liref Thence he made Various oumeys west a^d south ente^^r territory of the Rio Negro and various parts of .the ProSe of Sos^Aires. Subsequently Montevideo aiid vanous partTof Ui^guay were visited In view of t^e £r^f ^^tt'tRuK the agricultural resources of these regions it is beheved that tUe suD- joined summary of his observations shoud be recorded. The Argentine Government courteously placed at the agents dis- posal int™ters, guides, and vetermary. inspectors, detaJmg Dr. Wnzo G^rahan, I natil^bom Argentiman and a graduate of the VeteX^ CoUege of the State of Ohio. . Dr. Ga"^a^-£„-«tn.E K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 525 I If I J I Ill >f > w although it grows good cotton, oranges, and various tropical products. Coming southward, through Santa Fe, are areas of maize lands where sheep have been diriven out to a very great extent. The Province of Santa Fe has 1,992,110 sheep. Their numbers may decrease here steadily, though the number of cattle, now 2,639,480, will in- crease, no doubt, owing to the laying down of lands to alfalfa. In Pampa Central, the 5,000,000 sheep are decreasing, due to the coming in of agriculture. Cattle, on the other hand, are likely to increase, as it is a great alfalfa-growing region. GENERAL CONCLUSIONS. There ia no doubt that sheep breeding in Argentina has passed its meridian and is now on the decline. This is because of the large immigration to Argentina and the continual laying down of lands to agriculture. The only exceptions to this rule are to be seen in Pata- gonia, where agriculture probably will not come except in hmited areas of irrigable land. Probably m all the worid there is no region w^here the shepherd's life is easier than in Argentina. Since the wild dogs that once afficted the sheep have been killed off there have been practically no wild animals to trouble, except that in the mountams there are a few pumas, or mountain hons. Except along the base of the Andes the climate is everywhere so mild that no winter feeding is needed. In the north, if there is rain, grasses will remain green almost the year around. Disease is rare, except in the marshy regions, or dur- ing cycles of unusual rainfall, w^hen stomach worms trouble a great deal, as they do in North America, though seldom on so great a scale as there. The one thing afflicting the sheep of Argentina is scab. This is no doubt harder to eradicate than in North America. It is a condition quite prevalent and few estancias are so clean that they have ceased dipping. Certain enterprising estancieros have, however, abolished scab and ceased dipping their sheep, so that it is shown to be quite practicable to do so. The common custom is to dip several times each year, but not in close succession, which is necessary to free the flocks of scab. Chiefly, there are three breeds of sheep in Argentina — the Rambouil- let, the Lincoln, and the Romney Marsh. Between these breeds there exist innumerable crosses. The crossbred wools are the best, and are usually produced at the lowest price. The tendency for many years has been to use only Lincoln or Romney rams, so that the wools grow coarser and coarser. There is now some thought of returning to the Rambouillet, or, rather, of using crossbred Ram- bouillet, Lincohi, and Romnev rams in order to get into the flocks about 25 per cent of merino blood, which refines the wool and makes a mutton animal well liked by the frigorificos. The old Pampa crioUa sheep^ with its hairy wool, is seen only in remote districts, as among Indian sheep owners in the Andes or in the far north. Contrasting cattle breeding with sheep breeding, the production of good cattle on alfalfa will no doubt increase in Argentma as time goes on, especially if prices for beef remain good. It is probably the most marvelous place for cattle breeding in the world. This is espe- cially true of the regions where alfalfa is grown In Argentina cattle seem to bloat very little on alfalfa pasture. They run in thousands on the alfalfa pastures, which are perpetual, and in winter eat alfalfa hay from the neks piled up for them without men taking the trouble, as a rule, to take it out to them. Thus since 1895, while the sheep in the Province of Buenos Aires decreased 18,000,000, the cattle increased 2,600,000. DIFFICULTIES IN THE WAY OF THE STOCK GROWER. Briefly, the great defect in Argentina is the weather, which is most uncertain. There is no sure dependence to be placed on the weather. Rains may come at any time of the year, or they may not come at all. Sometimes a region will be without much, if any, rain for one, two, or three years. Again, there wiU be a series of years when the rainfall will be normal. The rainfall is, in normal years, just sufficient for the grasses and crops. In exceedingly rare seasons it is excessive. Per- aps in half the years it is too hght. One year in seven, more or less, it is withheld. In 1830 nearly all the cattle, horses, and sheep of Argentina perished. No doubt the losses were more severe than they could be to-day, for the animals probably perished of thirst more than hunger, since there were no streams, the shallow lagoons dried up, and there was absolutely not a drop of water for an animal to drmk in hundreds and thousands of square miles. To-day wells and wind- mills abound on every hand. Again, coupled with drought is the uncertainty of temperature. The heat is intense during the summer, yet south of Buenos Aires there is hardly a month when frost is unlmown. This depends upo the direction of the wind. If it blows long from the soutn, it brings cold. This fact has seldom much influence upon the sheep grower, but has powerful influence on agricultural possibilities. Like the plagues of Egypt come the locusts. These, also, are erratic in their coming. There will be a series of years, maybe four or six or more, with no locusts, then the insects come swarm- ing from the north and devour every green and living thing. Once they have come they will probably return yearly for four to six vears, after which time they will be seen no more for a term of years. No one knows whence they come. They are supposed to breed in northern forests. They breed also in the southern camps. In spite of these two factors, the soil is so rich that Argentine agriculture flourishes amazingly. THE AGRICULTUEE OF AEGENTINA. The farming of Argentine soils is at present done solely* on the extensive, not on the intensive system. The colonists are for the greater part Italians. They take large tracts of land, sometimes as much as 400 or more acres to the man, and till them as best they can. Then* plowing is done with American riding plows as a rule, and all the family will assist, the women and even tne children driving the animals. The plowing is generally poorly done. The seeding is now done with good American machinery, as is also the harvesting, although Australian reapers are to some extent displacing ours. The yields of wheat are low, compared with the extraordinary fertility of the soil, and when a good yield is obtained the colonists are usually 526 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUMJ K. •f « t unable to cope with the harvest, and much of the gram is left upon the ground. The tenants are given the naked land, furnishing their own houses of adobe walls and iron roofs. They commonly have no trees or flowers about them, and often not even a garden. After about four or five years of such culture the land is taken over by the landlord, sown to alfalfa, the tenant takes a new piece of virgin camp or grassland, plows it, and repeats his program. Rentals vary between 20 and 35 per cent given to the landlord. Cash rent is of from SI to $20 per acre, the latter price being paid for extraordinarily good land for growing Mnseed near the La Plata River. The soil is possibly the most marvelous expanse of richness in the world. All of agricultural Argentina, with the exception of Entre Rios, Tucuman, and some scattered irrigated valleys, is alluvial earth deposited in ancient times by the marvelous River Parana. The land is dead level, as a rule. It has no watercourses throughout its greater expanses. There is not descent enough to make it erode a watercourse. There is not usually rainfall enough to make much water run to the sea. In ordmary years every drop of rain is absorbed by the soil, which is often quite retentive of moisture. Alfalfa thrives best in the west of the province of Buenos Aires, in Santa Fe, in Cordoba and Pampa Central. It thrives where the soil IS underlaid with sand, so that there is a natural reservoir of moisture. The methods of seeding alfalfa are various. Usually it is sown in the autumn, though sometimes in the spring. Once a stand is secured on such land, it is nearly permanent. It is a curious fact that the alfalfa has lowered the water level of the soil many feet in the regions where its culture is common, so that the wells have had to be deepened. Alfalfa is almost spontaneous to the land, especially in the deep soils underlaid with moisture-retaining sand. Some day many sheep will be fattened by being put on alfalfa pastures. At present it is a prac- tice little seen, since the estancieros maintain that sheep seriously injure the alfalfa. It is a pernicious custom in Argentina to pasture alfalfa meadows too close. Maize culture in Argentina is at present in a transitory stage. The Italian colonist began by sowing the maize broadcast. Later he drilled it in rows close together and gave no cultivation. The varie- ties used were of a small flint type. Later he learned to put his rows wider apart, and now he is beginning in a small way to culti- vate to conserve moisture. Very Uttle of the corn planted is given what a North American farmer would call a good chance. It speaks eloquently of Argentine soils that a harvest is secured at all consicfering the methods of many of the colonists. In 1910-11 the Government experimented with the lister and North American methods of cultivation. The result was to nearly quadruple the crop in that year of very severe drought. That is, while the maize under the native methods yielded 7 bushels, that given North American cultivation made about 28 bushels in a year of almost total lack of rain. It is now impossible for the colonists to give that sort of cultivation, owing to their planting too wide areas and hking little or no labor. Sooner or later, they will plant less, cultivate more, and then the results are sure to be better. We will then, perhaps, feel the effect of Argentine competition in maize growing more than we do now. SHEARING SHEDS AND DIPPING VAT, SOUTH AMERICA. FRIGORIFICO ON STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE 626 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. unable to cope with the harvest, and much of the grain is left upon the ground. The tenants are given the naked land, furnishing their own houses of adobe walls and iron roofs. They commonly have no trees or flowers about them, and often not even a garden. After about four or five years of such culture the land is taken over by the landlord, sown to alfalfa, the tenant takes a new piece of vu-gin camp or grassland, plows it, and repeats his program. , , ., , Rentals vary between 20 and 35 per cent given to the landlord. Cash rent is of from $1 to $20 per acre, the latter price being paid for extraordinarily good land for growing linseed near the La Plata River. The soil is possibly the most marvelous expanse of richness in the world. All of agricultural Argentina, with the exception of Entre Rios, Tucuman, and some scattered irrigated valleys, is alluvial earth deposited in ancient times by the marvelous River Parana. The land is dead level, as a rule. It has no watercourses throughout its greater expanses. There is not descent enough to make it erode a watercourse. There is not usually rainfall enough to make much water run to the sea. In ordinary years every drop of rain is absorbed by the soil, which is often quite retentive of moisture. Alfalfa thrives best in the west of the province of Buenos Aires, m Santa Fe, in Cordoba, and Pampa Central. It thrives where the soil is underlaid with sand, so that there is a natural reservoir of moisture. The methods of seeding alfalfa are various. Usually it is sown in the autumn, though sometimes in the spring. Once a stand is secured on such land, it is nearly permanent. It is a curious fact that the alfalfa has lowered the water level of the soil many feet in the regions where its culture is common, so that the wells have had to be deepened. Alfalfa is almost spontaneous to the land, especially in the deep soils underlaid with moisture-retaining sand. Some day many sheep will be fattened by being put on alfalfa pastures. At present it is a prac- tice little seen, since the estancieros maintain that sheep seriously injure the alfalfa. It is a pernicious custom in Argentina to pasture alfalfa meadows too close. Maize culture in Argentina is at present in a transitory stage. The Itahan colonist began by sowing the maize broadcast. Later he drilled it in rows close together and gave no cultivation. The varie- ties used were of a small flint type. Later he learned to put his rows wider apart, and now he is beginning in a small way to culti- vate to conserve moisture. Very little of the corn planted is given what a North American farmer would call a good chance. It speaks eloquently of Argentine soils that a harvest is secured at all considering the methods of many of the colonists. In 1910-11 the Government experimented with the lister and North American methods of cultivation. The result was to nearly quadruple the crop in that year of very severe drought. That is, while the maize under the native methods yielded 7 bushels, that given North American cultivation made about 28 bushels m a year of almost total lack of rain. It is now impossible for the colonists to give that sort of cultivation, owing to their planting too wide areas and hkmg little or no labor. Sooner or later, they will plant less cultivate more, and then the results are sure to be better. We will then,, perhaps, feel the effect of Argentine competition m maize growing more than we do now. SHEARING SHEDS AND DIPPING VAT, SOUTH AMERICA. I FRIGORIFICO ON STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. Ii> .ifSr^ ^I^^MHMHHlia BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI/E K. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 527 While Argentina has been colonized for a longer time than North America, its development is recent. The great development dates from about the year 1890, when railway building, wheat growing, and exportation of food products began on a large scale. Smce that year the mcrease in development has been enormous. Despite the advances made, the lands of Buenos Aires and the other provinces are not nearly at their ultimate development. They await the advent of colonists and the plow. These are commg rapidly. Rains having fallen abundantly m Argentina, it is reasonable to assume that the drought is broken, that good crops of wheat and maize will follow, and that, for a time at least, ships will reach Argentma heavily freighted with new immigrants to till the soil. Practically all of these immigrants are from southeastern Europe. Danes, Germans, English, or Dutch are not coining now to Argentina to any great extent. The greatness of Argentina comes from three causes: Her really marvelous soil and the alluvial deposits of an enormous area overflowed in prehistoric times by the Rio de la Plata. The very great ease of tillage in a land where one can plow nearly every day in the year, never finding frozen earth, seldom earth too wet to plow, and free from stick, pebble, stone, watercourse, marsh, hill, or gully for thousands upon thousands of square miles. The advent of the Itahan people, rather skillful farmers m their way, industrious, patient, frugal, accustomed to Uving m poverty as a rule, and content in Argentina to Uve in mud huts, unsheltered from the torrid sun of summer, unwarmed from the frosts of winter. The most successful estancias as a rule are those managed by English, New Zealand, or American managers. The production of sheep in Argentina seems destmed to remain more or less stationary, because the mcrease in the Patagonian region will be offset by the absorption of lands for agriculture in the central Provinces The production of cattle m Argentina, if prices remain good, may well increase, since on alfalfa pastures cattle rearing is very profitable. In the far north is a new cotton^owing region which the Govern- ment is now seeking to develop. There are also lands in abundance for tropical fruits, sugar cane, and other tropical products. Much more maize and wheat may be expected to come from Argentma than in the past. ,,,... i i ^i. It is worth note that the value of the land is fixed more by the demand for it for agricultural use than for its productive value with live stock A gentleman thoroughly informed as to Argentina's pastoral condi- tions says : The west part of the Province of Buenos Aires, south part of the Provmce of Cor- doba and San Luis, and the eastern part of La Pampa will be the great beef-producing regions, and Patagonia, the southern part of the Province of Buenos Aures, tiie western part of La Pampa, the Provinces of Rio Negro, Chubut, Neuquen, and Santa Cruz will for a long tune be the great sheep grazing regions. As elsewhere in the world, our sheep decrease as agriculture comes in, and in recent years mtemal parasites in the more rainy regions and the increasiag valuations of land has caused sheep to decrease in numbers. Cattle are increasing wonderfully and will continue so to do for some tune yet. There are large regions now growing wheat and maize that will be alfalfa camps ere Long and grazed by cattle. 528 BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. CHARACTER OF ARGENTINE WOOLS. f^ REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 529 Naturally, the wools of Argentina vary with the regions and breeds in use. As a class, they are fairly dry wools, sometimes heavy with sand, but usually reasonably clean. Some of the wools most sent to America are those of tho crossbred types coming from Entre Kios. There are fairly clean, light wools. Always the light shrinking wools are chosen for American use. The merino first came to improve the half-wild criollo, or native stock. At one time the merino was practically the sole sheep in Argentina. Then came the day of the Lincoln and Romney Marsh rams, and with them the terms "half blood" and ''quarter blood." The terms in use were, for first cross, ** merino cross. With second cross and tliree-quarters of Lincoln blood, the wool was termed "half blood." Another cross of Lincoln brought the wool to three- quarters bred, then "long and lofty," and then "lofty and lustrous," which are those of the nearly pure Lincoln blood. The introduction of other breeds has varied types, but has not changed the nomenclature. These are as follows, according to a gentleman who is considered a high authority on Argentine sheep and wools: 1. Mestizo, i. e., merino. Originally a term applied to descendants of the old criollo sheep, crossed with merino. Now the term is applied to the merino. The old mestizos are extinct. 2. Fine cross. Mestizo wool, with an infusion of lonffwool tvpe in it. Locks serrated and dense. ^^ 3. Medium cross. The type midway between the merino and the longwools. Not a lustrous wool. Down fleeces come in this category. 4. Strong cross (cruza gruesa). A loftier and coarser wool than No. 3, but yet without luster. A plain combing wool. It forms the bulk of wools of to-day. 5. Lincoln (or Romney). This covers wools of a definite lofty and lustrous type, including all fleeces of white-face breeds, allied to tho Lincolns. 6. Ram's wool (Lano do Padre). It is sometunes the custom to separate and sell separately the heavy rams' fleeces. 7. Lamb's wool. Wool from lambs shorn when 3 to 5 months old. Fleeces not tied, but marketed loose. 8. Bellies and pieces. 9. Criollo wool. Tliis is nearly extinct. It is long, coarse, heavy, lustrous, and is of use in carpet and mattress making, SHEEP BREEDING AT THE STUD FARMS IN ARGENTINA. ^ There is splendid enterprise in Argentina in the matter of getting sires for use in all breeding operations. The class of bulls in use with the herds of cattle is usually very good, much better than one finds in use in the United States. Good stallions are used in horse breeding, and on the sheep farms it is rare that mf erior rams are seen, especiaSy on weU-managed estancias. As a rule, the rams are largely bred on the estancia where they are to be used, though usually a certain number will be bought each year in order to bring in fresh blood. There are great estancias devoted to the production of flock rams, and these are among the greatest establishments of the kind in the world. It is not uncommon to find on these estancias as many as 10,000 pure-bred ewes of wonderful character, bred to rams of high class, selected with the greatest thought and care and new blood brought in at almost any cost to keep the quality at top notch. Many of these estabhshments are very old. 1 he Olivers s d ate their gure-bred sheep stud back to 1835, when they imported their first lambouillets. The tjpe of Rambouillet bred here is a splendid one from tho standpoint of wool production, though inferior to North American Rambouillets in pomt of mutton conformation. Argentine Ram- bouillets excel in density of fleece. There are also great cabanas, or stud flocks, of Lincoln sheep. In fact, the Lincoln is now so much in favor that the Rambouillet stud flocks are sometimes kept at a real loss at the present time, since the demand is mostly for Lincoln rams. There are also stud flocks of Romneys, and these are as good as they can be made. ' The conditions in Argentina for producing good pure-bred sheep are better than are found in the United States. There is compara- tively little loss from parasitic disease. There is little need of shelter from storm, though on the cabanas the rams are quite generally put in sheds, as in the United States, and fed green food, alfalfa, and grain. While being fitted for shows, this is especially true. Lambing is not difficult in Argentina, as the weather is almost uniformly good. With a little forethought there is always plenty of feed. There are very many of the splendid places where breeding flocks of pure-bred sheep are kept. They are owned by rich, enterprising, ana pubUc-spirited men, native Argentinians of Spanish descent, for the most part, and are princely in their fittings and appointments. These places supply constant streams of pure blood that flow out to fertihze the flocks of all of Argentina. The prices received for the pure-bred rams are moderate — from $10 to $100 or more gold. Usually, good rams are to be had for $20 each. The breeders for their stud flocks not infrequently expend very large sums for flock headers. As much as $6,000 has been paid for one Lincoln ram. There are in Buenos Aires several finely appomted stables where sheep are consigned, kept on exhibition, and sold from time to time. These places, curiouslv enough, are on the principal streets in tho city and in the very heart of its most fashionable part. They are fine places, in beautiful order, and to walk through one is as interest- ing as to visit an English Royal Show or the Chicago International Exposition, save that the exliibits are not so extensive. WHAT AN ESTANCIA IS LIKE. Wliile this has Httle bearing on the subject, economically considered, yet it may be mteresting to obtain a general idea of the nature of an Argentine camp. First, the name ''camp," in universal use, means the estancia, or ranch; and in general it means the pastoral regions in distinctiveness from the farms or ''colonias." The railway that takes one to the camp is a solidly constructed affair, after the EngHsh pattern, but with cars much like those used in the United States. 32080°— II. Doc. 342. 62-2, vol 1- 530 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEP©ET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 531 The t-ains nm at intervals; on some lines daily, and on others two or three times a week. They generally proceed slowly, and the stops at stations are usually long. One get« a fair general idea of the country- and its ways from the train, as it usually runs through the pasture land. In nearly aM the region, it is astonisliingly leyel and would be monotonous as a lansdcape if one were not keenly interested m tlie life outside. The fields are fenced into very large potreros, or pas- tures, of, say, from 100 to 6,000 acres each. The cattle, sheep, and horses usually graze in the same pastures. Tlie fences are of wire and well built at great cost, for, m a coun- try absolutely treeless, all wood must be brought from the northern forests. The posts are mostly of quebracho, or some other wood, as hard and heavy almost as stone, and as durable. The wires pass through the posts instead of being stapled. They are kept perfectly taut and do not rust. The wires are also run through the upright sticks or stays that space them the proper distance apart, since the posts are verv far one from the other. There may be one barbed wire, no more*. The gates are wide and strong, and so hung that they seldom drag the ground. . o -i Alighting from the train, one sees a vdlage of houses in bpanisii stvle, usually with unpaved streets. Drivmg out of the village one finds, if it has been a wet time, heavy roads, unimproved by man; if a drv time, he is enveloped in clouds of dust. The roads are very wide and are commonly treeless along their length, though now and then one will pass an estancia where trees have been planted w^th great care and protected so well that they are making glorious growth. The chinabeixy tree of our South is the favorite tree, since it is not devoured by loc^ists. Neitt comes the Eucalyptus globulus so much seen in California. , . , i. ., -i tt As one drives along, he is amazed at the richness of the soil. He looks in vain for a poor spot. There is never a knoll or hillock or knob of poor earth. All is rich, thougli in some low places alkalies may have come to the surface, rendering the land unproductive. One is also astonislied to drive in some places mile after nnle and see no brook or creek or river, and at last learns that he can, m fact, drive a hun- dred miles in some parts without encountering one permanent water course. Nor will there be ponds or pools, save in times of unusual rain, when shallow pools will be seen. American wmdmiils stand m the fields, and from them radiate long lines of galvanized iron troughs for the sheep and cattle. Approaching the headquarters of the estancia, there is generally an avenue of fine trees planted m severa lines, and about the house much beauty of planting m groves and wardens and orchards. . . Perhaps there may l>e few buildings on the estancia aside from the rather large dwelhng of the manager, an office for the bookkeeper, a coach house and harness liouse and a shearing shed. There may be also sheds for sheltering and feeding rams and choice e\yc^. Usually such accommodations are very limited. There are modest dwelhngs for the peons, or laborers, and in each large pasture there will prob- ably be a hut or small house for the peons whose work is to look alter the fences and animals in that especial pasture. There may be implements of a^jriculture, but they are nrobabiy rather unimportant to the operation of the place. The sheep are scattered about in the various pastures where they crop the grasses and wild clovers. They are almost never fed. Sometimes oats are sown in the fall for winter grazing and sometimes, though most rarely, grasses and alfalfa are sown for their grazing. Cultivated grasses perish in the droughts. Alfalfa is destroyed by too close grazing of tlie flocks. Naturally, it follows that the labor cost of managmg the estancia is very small. There is not a wolf to be found, few foxes, except in the desert lands of the south, and usually the sheep are quite undis- turbed by predatory animals. Owing to the preyading dry weather, intestinal worms are of rare occurrence, except in marshy districts during times of unusual rains. Then the trouble is not so serious as in the com belt of the United States. Tlie land is covered thickly, in their season, with bur clovers, such as grow along the coast of California. Later, the burs from these are somewhat troublesome in the wool. If there has been rain, various small grasses spring up from seed and the pastures are a lovely sight. If there has been long drought, the pastures are so bare one marvels that tlie sheep should survive at all. In times of prolonged droudit the owners do not put rams with the ewes, preferring to lose a lamb crop rather than to yet further weaken and perhaps destroy the mother stock. With enough rain, the grasses and clovers will half hide the sheep. Unhappily, there is absolutely no way to guess whether there will or will not be rain, nor to judge of when it will come. High winds rapidly dissipate moisture. Ongmally, the camp was covered with coarse grasses that grew as high as a man's head, or higher. These grasses have been destroyed by plowing the land, for they were not nutritious nor eaten by animals unless there was nothing else for them. On the estancias chiefly devoted to sheep the cattle are usually not very profitable, since the sheep eat out the better part of the pasture, leaving for the cattle the poorer, harder, woodier parts. It is to consume this coarse stuff that the cattle are kept. Tliis is the work of the estancia. The lambs will be born often in late fall, in May, June, or in the winter month of July. Or they may be born in the spring, say, in August. It is recognized that early lambs thrive best. Prudent managers reserve pastures for lambing ewes, so that they may find enough food to furnish plenty of milk. Always the lambing is in the open field. Very good percentages of lambs are sometimes secured. This may be as high as 100 per cent, though 85 per cent is considered a good increase from the ewe flock. Shearing comes in October, November, and December. Machines are in common use now throughout the Republic, though some yet use the hand shears. Often the wool is baled on the estancia and sent direct to Europe. More commonly it is sent to the great wool market of Buepos Aires, where it is assorted and sold for export. Dipping goes on more or less the year around. There are few if any neighborhoods exempt from scab. Should a man free his own flock, he is apt to have a neighbor with scabby sheep, and infection is easy. Usually four dippings per year are given. In ordinary tunes there is little work to be done with the sheep. The fences are built so well that animals do not break out or in. There is the least possible repair work to be done. Once an estancia is well equipped with fences, gates, corrals, and dip, the maintaining of it is of the lowest possible cost. 532 KEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD 027 SCHEDULE K. The slieplierds manage the sheep always from hoi-seback. The shepherds are usually native Arj-entme peons, the result of a mixture of Spanish and Indian blood, fairly faithful and efficient when well selected and well supervised. On many estanciaa wethers are kept until 3 or 4 years old, and then sent to the freezing works. The agent of the Tariff Board studied diligently to see what could be learned in Argentina that would aid North American flock masters. Briefly, here are the few tlungs that seem applicable to their condi- tions:* The use of Eomney rams on the western range ewes should result weU, as it has in Argentina. The Romney is a very hardy, easily fattened sheep, and has a good wool, made better by crossing with the merino. . i . xi • Study of Argentine conditions convinces one that tnere is more profit in crossbred sheep than in those of pure breeding. Study of Argentina convinces one that while much has been done to improve North American breeds of cattle and sheep, the general level of Argentine flocks and herds is quite as high as there, and perhaps hi^er. ^ . , . , , ^i x Study of sheep farming in .irgentma plainly shows the great advantage that accrues to the sheep breeder who owns or leases his land. Control of land gives opportunity for fencmg, puttmg m wells and dams for watering the stock, prevents overstocking, and enables the rancher to settle down to a careful and continuous course of sheep breeding, looldng always aliead to the production of the best kmds of wool and the most mutton. "imUGFAY. Uruguay, though so near Argentina, is a land of widely di^erent character.^ The Argentine country is mostly flat, alluvial land, in Uruguay one fmds roUing, rocky, ridges, not very high, sometimeg tree crowned. The climates are much the same, both being, unhappily, subject to drought. Uruguay is in the w^m tem- perate latitudes, and oranges grow over practically all of tiie Kepubiic. Much less agriculture is practiced in Uruguay than in Argentma, for two reasons: The soil is jiot usually so weU adapted to the plow- there are regions of exceptional value for agriculture— and there has not been the great immigration to Uruguay that has been seen m Arcentina. It is a land devoted almo'st sohdly to sheep and cattle fed on native pastures. Uruguay is deficient m railway hnes, as compared with Argentma, though there are new hnes now under construction. . r a +1 • « fi «* On approaching an Uruguayan estaneia, the hrst tlung tnat impresses the stranger is the excellence of the fences^ Ihese are of wire, not barbed, very tightly stretched, and usuaUy of large size. The posts are commonly 40 feet or more apart. Ordmanly, posts are sliipped by rail from the northern forests, and more rarely cut from neighboring tracts of small timber. They are usually crooked posts of very hard and durable wood, the ^'namdebay and que- bracho woods being most used. Between the posts are wooden stays to keep the wires properly spaced to prevent the sheep creeping through between them. Woven wire, such as is used in North America, is not in use here. The wires are seldom stapled to the REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 533 posts, but are put through holes in the wood, both through the main posts and the intermediate stays. Wire of English and German manufacture is used, and it seldom rusts. The gates are com- monly very strong and well hung. There are few gates in North America as good as one finds in common use in South America. It is the rarest tiling to find one sagging or broken. Quite generally tlie gates are kept locked to prevent mischievous or careless people leaving them open. The roads are very wide, often 100 meters (300 feet) and sometimes widening out to several times that width in order to allow grazing places for traveUng flocks and herds. The estancieros, owning the land thus left outside of his pastures, is in the habit of charging a small fee for animals stopping there to rest and graze. The roads in Uruguay are commonly very good, though as a rule little has been done to make them so. The nature of the earth makes it easy to have pod roads, and the Government is quite energetic in building needed bridges and approaches. The country undulates without being actually hilly. Innumer- able ledges of rock protrude along the summits of the ridges, or sometimes on the slopes, or even on the lowlands. On tlie high parts are often wide level areas, free from stone and with good depth of soil. The rocks are often granites ; sometimes sandstones. Some- times layers of soft hmestone are fou^id — a chalky substance called *Hosca." This material seems to have been a late deposit, probably during some submergence of the land beneath the sea. It is usually composed of tliis soft hmestone, but not always so. The word *'tosca" is much used in South America to denote a hard substance in the subsoil. This material may some day be used with benefit on a very large area of the pasture land, which in its natural state is nearlv*^without carbonate of hme. The soil is almost uniformly black and full of humus. It is rich, usually, in nitrogen, and said to be poor in phosphorus and bone material. It is much improved by use of bone meal, which some estancieros have begun to use in connection with their agricultural attempts. As a rule it is not well adapted to the plow. The slopes are apt to erode when plowed, and there is much stony, rocky land. There are, however, wide areas well fitted for agriculture. Nearly every estaneia will have on it a considerable area that is adapted to the plow, though on many estancias the plow is httle, if any, in use. The soil is not so absorbent of moisture as are the soils of alluvial Argentina. There are very wide areas of Argentina, particularly in the Provinces of Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Pampa Central, and Santa Fe that are nearly without any streams, having practically no run-off of water whatever, all being absorbed by the soil. In Uruguay, owing to the greater compactness of the soil and its greater slope, streams abound and springs are not uncommon. The whole country is covered with native grasses cf a perennial character. There are many species represented. Some are coarse and unfit for sheep, httle hked by cattle, and, except in time of drought, httle eaten. Others are short, fine grasses, very good mdeed. There are also in many parts good growths of wild native clovers. The ' ' bur clovers " and the very fattening aLfilaria are seen to a greater or less extent. In native grasses, Uruguay is more richly supplied than is Argentina, which is naturally covered with very coarse and 534 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. hard grasses. In Aigeiitina men plow to kill the hard grasses, when the finer sorts come in of their own accord. Most grasses are annual in Argentina. In Uruguay most grasses are perennial, and the plow injures the pastures, some say irreparably. An estancia in Uruguay may be described thus: Driving over a wide plain, one sees far in advance a grove, or maybe a small forest, of towering trees. Within these trees will be found the headquarters of the estancia. At the gate or near it will be a small house, maybe of brick or of adobe, with roof very often of thatch. This is the home of one of the puesteros, or pasture tenders. It is his dutv to look after one of the large potreros, or pastures and to keep the gate. From him one secures a key which unlocks the gate and other gates that may intervene between his house and headquarters. . , , ^ n i. Entering the pasture and driving through, one folJows a cart track or, maybe, an avenue of eucah-pti. The pasture may have 100 acres or possibly 5,000 acres. Well-managed estancias make rather small inclosures, the better to arrange their stock— from 200 to 500 acres in the main pastures, with smaller paddocks of from 40 to 100 acres, more or less, near the headquarters. Even in winter, if the soil is moist, the grass wiU be green, though it may be unable to make growth because of the cold nights and cool davs. The winter climate of Uruguay is delightful if one has a fireside" where he can retreat at nightfall. The days are usually sumiy and cool and more or less bloom and greenness are seen through- out the -winter. ,^ xT^ 1 .1 . u The sheep are usually of uniform type. Wiiile there is some scab apparent in Uruguay, yet on some estancias there is none seen. The sheep are loose in thc"^ pastures and scattered all over them, unac- compan'cd by any herder, as would be necessary on ranches m Nortii America. The reason no herder is seen is that in Uru- guay there are no wild animals to destroy sheep, except the very rare puma. Possibly in the far north a jaguar at rare mtei-vals may be found and some foxes that may destroy lambs. * The sheep w^ill be more or less classified in the pastures accordmg to ages and^sexes. There are many bands of wethers, kept for their wool. Usually the sheep are in good condition. Even m times of drought they do not suffer as do the cattle, since they bite closer and are quicker to get the sweet, short grass. The cattle, if it has been a hard year, may be quite thin or even dying. One may at first ask why any cattle at all are kept, but he will be told that it is so that both classes of grass maybe consumed— the liard coarse grasses and the finer as well. Durmg the year 1910-11 losses of cattle from starvation were very heavy in Urugua\\ Few or no mndmills are seen. Tliere are here and there little streams or sprmgs of water, usually ver}^ pure and good. Tins is m striking contrast with Argentina, where the windmill is the most common adornment of the pasture. , , ., i- t xu From near by the estancia headquarters the buildmgs gleam white through the trees. Often there will be many buildings, almost like a small village. There are the galpones, or bams one for shearing, another possibly for storing the wool; stables for horses and perhaps for cattle; small houses for the pe(ms, or laborers, and last the house of the estanciero himself, wliich may be a large, pretentious aliair, REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 01^ SCHEDULE K. 535 although usually a modest, rambling, roomy, one-story building of brick, plastered on the outside, roofed with tiles, as a rule, and sur- rounded with a garden in which one finds oranges, peaches, apricots, fi^s, plums, roses, flowers, and back of the house a beautifully kept kitchen garden. These places are veritable oases and show what Uruguay might become imder agricidture, given skilled labor, under rather small holdings. The number of peons, or laborers, required on these estancias varies somewhat, but in general no very gieat number is needed. On one estancia raising pure-bred sheep 5 men care for 6,000 head. Another uses 5 men to care for 14,500; another has 4 men for 11,000; another 6 men for 7,500; another 30 men for 55,000 sheep; and yet another 15 men for 19,000 sheep, or an average of about 1,750 sheep per man. Naturally it is not found that the lowest numbers of peons are seen on the best managed estancias, though the number does not vaiy so very much in these schedules secured. The work of the estancia is somewhat like this : In ordinary weather there is little or nothing to do to the sheep. Then the men employ themselves in perfecting the fences, repairing the houses, occasionally getting up the sheep for assorting or for culling out various classes, or work with the cattle, of which there are always a number on the place. The fences are carefully inspected at short intervals, and always there is a rigid scrutiny of every sheep for scab. As there is absolutely nothing fed to the sheep except the native growth of grasses it will be seen that there is no labor cost for feeding them. There are many days when the peons employ themselves viith a simple inspection of fences and flocks. Lambmg oegins in April, May, or June, which are months corre- sponding to our North American early winter. There should then be a certain amount of green grass, and lambs bom then get a good start during winter and grow rapidly in August and September, when the real spring comes, with pretty certain growth or grass. Other estancieros have all the lamos bom in August and September, or, sometimes, as late as October, though it is recognized tliat the late- born lambs do not tlirive as do the early bom ones. Little extra labor is given at lambing time, nor is much needed. The ewes are scattered at will over the pastm'es and are often put in especially sheltered places to bear their lambs, and, on Vv'cll-managed places, on pastures that have been reserved especialh" for this pur- pose. Fairly good lambings are reported, varying according to breeds and seasons. Dipping follows shearing, and is repeated usually four or five times a year. Shearing is in October and November^ finishing with the fall-born lambs, wmch are shorn in December. Shearing is quite generally done with machines, though not always. On some estancias the peons there resident do all the shearing , tliough the usual custom is to employ traveling shearers, as is the custom in the United States. The cost of shearing includes food for the men. After shearing the treatment of the wool varies according to the estancia and its practice. Some estancieros carefully assort their fleeces and bale their wool at the estancia, sending it direct to Eng- land to be sold. One prominent grower marks each bale, '^Free from scab, stain, or dip." He has no scab, so does not dip his sheep. At 536 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. til© wool sales his wool brings always a high pnco m consequeneo of its cleanness and goochiess. Other and more numerous estancieros send their wools to commission houses m Montevideo, where it is classified, baled, and exported. Sometimes the wool is sold at Mon- tevideo; again it is sold in Europe. This year Urugiiavan wools brought witldn a few cents of as much as the wools of the Umted States, when Uruguay estancieros sold their entire product for as much as 17 cents per pound. . . , , t .1 -i j After shearing and dipping the wool is hauled to the railways and sent to market. The haid may be short or may be as much as forty or more miles, as Uruguay is not yet well provided with railways. Then follows a long period of routine work, such as seeing after fences, building new ones, watching with keen eyes for reappearance of scab, that dreaded enemy of South Amencan flocks. Ihe peons, when well superintended bv one who understands them, are willing and faithful. The country is beautiful; the climate one of the best in the world, although somewhat dry; and the life of the Uruguayan estanciero would be most happr were it not for a few disaOTeeable things that should be mentioned. First, we place the disease, scab. This is almost everywhere present. There are but few estancias in Uruguay absolutely without scab in their flocks. Itie reason for the continuance of scab seems to be due to several causes : First, the estancieros do not do double dipping. They dip three or four or more times in a year, but allow intervals of months between. Thus the eggs of the scab insect hatch and propagation begins between the dippings. Then there is no simultaneous pipping. One estanciero will dip at a later date than his neighbor; and even were he to clean thoroughly his own flock his neighbor very likely would not clean his, and scabby sheep rubbing against the fence and posts convey infection. . . , 1. tt The second difficulty in the way of the estanciero is drought. Un- happily, the coast of South Amenca, south of Brazil, has no certain cUmate. Rains may be abundant and seasons normal ; then all goes well. At other times rains will be withheld for long periods. There will be whole series of yeai-s of drought ; not of complete absence of rain, but of hght rainfall. The result is that at last every vestige of grass is eaten, even to the coarse, woody grasses, and cattle die on every hand. Sheep Hve longer than cattle, but many lambs and old ewes wiU be lost. Finally, the drought mil be broken and the grasses spring up as if by magic, and sheep rapidly take on flesh; the weak- lings have died off and the fittest only survive. Cattle recuperate more slowly, and may die for sometime after the rams come, but they, too, after a time, regain their strength and flesh. Droughts in Uruguay are possibly less severe than m Argentina, though there is probably httle difference in tlus respect. The third difficulty to consider is the locust. Tins large insect comes in swarms from the north, settles over the lands, strips the trees of their leaves, gardens of their plants, orchards of their fruit; they consume the grass and the very weeds. There are few species of trees and plants untouched bj these destroyers, lliey come at irregular peiiods, and after a time totafly disappear for another period. They have now been in Uruguay for four years. It must be about time for them to disappear for a period of perhaps eight years. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 537 The most dreadful handicap to the estanciero is the revolution. Whatever the cause, a revolution works havoc with an estancia. Horses are requisitioned by both sides, and tlie estancia may be left almost horseless. Fences are cut, and peons go to war who are needed for labor. BREEDS OF SIIEEP AND CROSSBREEDS. It has been many years since there were notable numbers of the half-wild, coarse-wooled Criollo sheep in Uruguay. First to improve them came the merinos, both the Eambouillet and the smaller types. Many Vermont merinos were taken there and did a considerable part in advancing the wool production of Uruguay. They are not now found here in large numbers, because they were small and somewhat delicate of constitution. Larger, stronger sheep better suited the conditions here. There are very large numbers of Kambouillets in Uruguay. Per- liaps half of the sheep of the country are of this breed, pure or mixed. The Rambouillets of Uruguay are distinct in type from those of North America, having very dense fleeces, some wrinkles on the bodies, less desirable mutton form, and less ability to fatten than our Kambouil- lets. They are much seen in the north. The German merinos of Xegretti type are seen on the Estancia Tidemann, where there are 55,000 of this kind. They are like Kambouillets, but somewhat smaller, with rather better forms and carrying a good class of fine M'ool. The Lincoln is in high repute, commonly used to cross on the Ram- bouillet. Purely bred, the Lincoln does not thrive here as it does in the fatter pastures of Argentina. The Romney is also a favorite. Its cross with the merino makes a sheep very strong, able to tope with the conditions and grasses, and fatten well while bearing a beau- tiful crossbred wool. The Romney is also used to cross on the Shropshire, giving improvement in amount and staple of wool. The Southdown, Shropsliire Down, and Hampshire Down are aU present in Uruguay. At one time the Shropshire was a prime favorite, and many were imported. To-day it is out of favor. The fleeces are too light, is the complaint. The same is said of the other Downs. They are rapidly being crossed with other types of rams and may nearly disappear, unless the frigorificos should encourage them by paying a premium for their wethers. It is recognized that the Shropshire presents a lamb very strong and readily reared, and that the ewes do not so soon become old as with some mutton breeds. The present tendency is toward the infusion of more and more of the bloods of Lincoln and Romney Marsh. Doubtless, sooner or later there will be need of return to the merino, as the fleeces become too coarse to command the highest prices. From study of conditions in Uruguay it is believed that the follow- ing conclusions are warranted: Conditions pastoral in L'ruguay will undergo no sudden change in one way or another. It is preeminently a land of native grasses and must long remain so, although there are wide areas of agricultural land interspersed. The agriculture of Uruguay will in favored parts greatly increase, and there the cattle and sheep will diminish. There is no way to 538 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE IL Hr HI' kcrease tlie output of beef, mutton, or wool until men learn to make agriculture come to the aid of theur herds and flocks. 1 he begmmng oi this has only just been seen. . . j. j .x UruCTay will develop a greater production of beef and mutton as soon as the frigoriiicos pay larger prices for the live animals. This will probably come as soon as the Amencan fngordico operators begin to compete tor the fat animals. SOME COXCLUSIOXS. Careful study of cost of production in South America reveals the following facts: # . i. i r « t« Low cost of production goes with sheep of riffht breeding. In South America tliis means sheep bred for both wool and mutton. Usually,lowcostof production goeswith crossbred sheep. Usiiallv in South America the crossbred sheep have a mmgling ot bloods or merino with Lincoln or Komney. x i j i- ^ Low cost of production comes from camps not overstocked ; from flocks kept free from disease. Wliere scab has been eradicated is found the lowest cost of production. , . Low cost of production corner with the providing of winter feed f or the sheep, as oats sown in the fall and grazed green, or pastures saved esDecially for the wintertime. , j. ^i xx Very low cost of production comes with makmg much of the mutton end of the business. i i • -^^ «,^* Art^entina can more easdy cheapen production by bringing agn- culture to aid the pastures than Uruguay or Chile, since much land in Unmiav is best not plowed. There has not heretofore been a large immigration of colonists, to Uruguay. Railways are bud^l;^^|,^ ^^ ever, and colonists coming, so it is probable that m line \vith all new countries, sheep will be somewhat crowded out and wool pro- duction may diminish. # x • * The advent of .imcTican packers and «^P*>^^^1^"^*^.*1%^^^ tina and Uruguay k being followed by a nse m prices for fat sheep. This rise has not yet been sufficient to stay the withdrawal of lands from sheep and the devoting of them to agriculture. Lnmigration is very ffreat in Argentina at the present time, and each slupload ot ItaliaS or Spanish farmers displaces for a Ion- *f ™ ^L? y^;^;!^\^3 number of sheep, since the land once devoted to agriculture is not soon, if ever, returned to the use of sheep. ,. , j x x «, Great fortunes have been made through sale of lands to farmera in the countries visited. Land values in Argentina are now so high that there is steady and rapid cutting up of ^^^P^J^\'^^^^^^ colonies. The same is true in Uruguay, though there the process is of more recent introduction. . u ^ ^p .u^^t^ Something might occur to check the decre^e in number ot sheep in ArgentinS and Uruguay. The most probab e cause of arrestmg this decrease would be enhanced values for wool and mutton. The building and operating of packing houses by Nort^i American packers through competition is likely to result m higher prices for mutton in Argentina as in Uruguay. REPORT or TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. WAGES OF SHEPHERDS AND PEONS. 539 There is a custom somewhat prevalent in South America of giving the flocks in charge of puesteros, who take all care of them and receive as payment a share m the wool and lambs. At one estancia the puestero received 25 per cent of the wool and the same of the increase, valuing lambs at 88 cents each. The working of this scheme was, on the whole, more economical of expense than to hire the men. In good years they made good profits; m bad years very little, as they must make good the numbers intrusted to them. They would be given from 1,000 to 2,000 sheep each. Thus, a man with 1,500 sheep would hope to get one-fourth of 10,000 pounds of wool, or 2,500 pounds, worth, say, $400, and one-fourth increase, say, 250 lambs, worth to him 88 cents each, or $220; his total earnings then might be $620, from which he must feed himself and buy the horses that he used. In bad years he would make much less than the sum named. In the Rio Negro men were found giving sometimes one-fourth of the w^ool, and occasionally to a very good man one-third of the wool for care, the men to dip the sheep, the owner to pay for materials. The Basques own immense numbers of sheep in Argentina and are the most successful shepherds. They commonly estimate the labor cost, with food, for caring for and shearing the sheep, at 88 cents each per year. Some put the cost as low as 48 cents, which does not count their own superintendence. It is a notable fact that the estancias with the liighest labor costs have often returned the largest profits. WAGES OF SHEPHERDS AND PEONS IN ARGENTINA. The wages of peons engaged in agricultural work in Argentina vary largely. In Santa Cruz, for instance, our agent found men paying shepherds as much as $30 per month, with food. These would often be Scotclmien on estancias managed by Englishmen or Scots. In Corrientes, on the other hand, the wages of peons were found to be as low as $8 per month, with food. Between these figures are all manner of gradations. The matter is much complicated by the question of the efficiency of the peon in comparison with the shepherd or agricultural laborer of the United States. In general, it may be said that two men of the United States would have as much efficiency as three Argentine peons, though there are exceptions to this, some of the peons being faithful, skflled, and industrious. As a class, however, they are below our standard m efficiency. In Aro:entina, as in Uruguay, the superintendents are often paid large salaries and are very skilled, intelligent men, often of British or American origin. The peons are native, and the superintendent's salary is quite often about as much as the combined wages of the peons employed. WAGES IN URUGUAY. The wages paid to peons in Uruguay vary greatly. Near Colonia, where there is much agriculture, owners are paying as high as $19 per month to puesteros. Others paid $12 or $15. In the north the rate is usually $12 and sometimes as little as $8 to $10. In general, the 540 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. wages are less toward tlie north. With wages quoted go food for I lie I aixii lies « The character of Uruguayan peons is good, m a class. They are fairly faithful and inteUigent, and under capable superintendence they give their employers good service. FEEDING THE LABORERS AND SHEPHERDS. Usually it is the custom in South iVmerica to furnish food to the laborera on estancias. Very; often these are married men, living in small houses with their families. Their food is cliiefly mutton. An element enters here into the problem very unusual to a North American— that of the ''consumer sheep." On every estancia there is set apart a flock of sheep to be eaten. In estimating the running expenses the flocks have been given credit only for the proportion of those sheep eaten that went to laborers caring for cattle or agricul- ture of tlie estancia. The sheep consumed by peons engaged in care of sheep and by the household of the manajjer are not, in these inves- tigations, taken into account in any way, since it was not necessary. This loss appears in the inventory at the close of tlie year. A noted estanciero, who keeps veiy accurate books, as indeed does nearly every one of whom our agent obtained information, gives the followmg diet and costs for 20 men one day: Meat, $2.50, coHee, 9 cents; sugar, 16 cents; biscuits, 72 cents; yerba mate (tea), 64 cents; macaroni, 24 cents; farina, lard, salt, 15 cents; total, $4.50. This estimate makes the food of a man cost $82.12 for one year. Other estancieros assure us that tliis estimate is below a cost that will keen their men. Another estanciero furnishes the following estimate of food required for a peon keeping a puesto, or pasture, living with his family, per month: Tliirty-three pounds of yerba mate; 6 to 8 sheep, according to size of family; galletas (hard biscuits), about 6 per day, or 33 pounds of farina'; salt. It will be seen that the home consumption of meat is something very large. A man, with his family, may con- sume from 70 to 100 sheep in a year. The ordmary estancia wiU have at least four peons and a manager. The five famihes will con- sume, more or less, 400 sheep in a year. TOTAL INVESTMENT IN SHEEP IN LTIUGUAY. According to the data furnished by the Uruguayan division of live stock, there were in Uruguay in 1910, 26,286,296 sheep. ^ From the best data at hand it would appear that there is about $12 invested in land and equipment for each head of sheep (tliis includes the value of the sheep). The total investment, then, would be approximately $315,435,524. During 1910 there was sold wool worth $19,319,304. Unfortu- nately, we are not certain that tliis wool represented one year's chp. There were exported during the year 12,276,122 pounds of mutton. This brought the growers, as near as can be estimated, $495,590. There were also very many sheep exported alive to Brazil and Argen- tina, of wliich we have no account. The following table, showing Aigentine exports of wool and prices (in Argentina gold worth $0,965), wiU be of interest. Vanous causes REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 541 influence the fluctuations in value, such as the world-market demand and the steady use of long wool rams, which has rapidly changed the former merino wools into, first, crossbred wools, and, latterly, into a near approach to longwools again. Not quite all of the Argentine wools are nerein shown, as some are exportea through Punta Arenas, a Chilean port. Exportation of wool from Argentina. [From Agricultural Argentina, a bulletin of the minister of agriculture.] Years. las.").. lK.Srofit from sheep breeding. Others urge tlie fluctuating mar- kets as discouraging them from attempting mutton production; though on tills score it may be said that we have the testimony of men who have fed their lambs steadily year after year for 20 years and have made good profits in 16 years of the 20 just preceding.^ In this combination of sheep breeding and lamb fattening there are tlu-ee systems of procedure, with somewhat widelv dilTering profits. First, tliere is the plan of breeding sheen of a small, \vrinkled, hea^y-shearing t\'pe, fattening the lambs as best it can be done. Grea'sy-wooled slieep do not easily fatten. Despite these disad- vantages we have records of such flocks that are, when the lambs are Well fed, making a profit. Second, there is the flock of large delaine, blacktop, or Rambouillet ewes, bred to rams of like character. TOien lambs from such flocks are well fed the result is good and the charge against t!ie wool is very low, or sometimes disappears altogether. Well-cared-for flocks of delaine, blacktop, or Rambouillet ewes produce large crops of lambs. These lambs fatten readily and sell for a good price, ior nearly the top AMERICAN MERINO, TYPE "A". AMERICAN MERINO, TYPE "B". REPOET OF TARIFF BOARD OX SCHEDULE K. 549 ■up price in the market, in fact. That the lambs are somewhat smaller than lambs of the distinctly mutton breeds is no disparagement in the estimation of present-day market buyers. It seems to be true, also, that the ''plainer bodied" or more free from folds and wmkles the sheep are the more easily their lambs fatten. It is, as a matter of fact, both surprising and gratifying to learn how much American breeders have done in this Ohio VaUey and Michigan repon toward producing a true type of mutton merino, adapted to the soil and climate and producing wool which, wliile not grading as fine, perhaps, as the finest Austrahan, is yet a wool soft and strong and of combmg Third, there is the type of sheep farming where crossbreeding is done. Here the ewes wdl probably be merino, the rams one of the Enghsh breeds. The favorite type of ram at present is the Shropshire in Ohio; the Dorset in Pennsylvania and parts of West Virginia; in some regions the SouthdowTi or Hampshire; in Michigan sometmies the Oxford Down, though there also the Shropshire prevails. Cross- bred lambs from merino mothers and any one of the Enghsh breeds make almost perfect types of mutton lambs for feeding purposes. They early attain large weights. They are healthy and fatten fast. In a study of our schedules it develops that men breeding this class of lambs and feeding them well are in almost every instance making profit. In many "flocks of this character the charge agamst w-ool has been from a few cents per pound to no charge at all, the lambs having paid all the charges and left a surplus. However, the production of such lambs is not so plam and easy a pro- cedureas would atfirst bo imagined. The first useof the mutton-bred ram usually results in a crop of heavy, good selling lambswhich brmg a profit. This is assuming that they have been well fed. When they are not so fed they may return less profit than lambs of purely mermo blood; but if one sells all of his lambs of both sexes he finds his ewe flocks aging and not being renewed. It is the testimony of most men who have had long experience in this region that it is better to keep the ewe flock purely mermo and not to retain the half-blood ewe lambs, however attractive they may be, because they require more and better food than merino ewes and are not nearly so resistant to para- sites. What occurred m Michigan folio wmg the advent of mutton- bred rams in a mermo country nas already been related. The same experience has been repeated many times in neighborhoods m the Ohio Valley. mr i. There seem to be two solutions to tliis problem. The board has instances of each solution and the results are good. The farmer may use two classes of rams, one of mermo blood, of the type he fmds best. The rams will be bred to a sufficient number of his best ewes to pre- serve in purity his ewe flock, the ewe lambs from such matings bemg retamed to replenish the flocR. All the other ewes will be bred to the mutton rams and the progeny be all sold fat to the butchers. This system seems a practical one, and is in Use by a considerable and growmg number of men m the Ohio Valley, Michigan, and adja- cent States. t 1 i* Another possible solution is to so carefully to select^ the breedm? stock that both ewes and rams mil be of mutton mermo type, and the lambs will fatten as readily as is necessaiy to make them profit- able. One of the board's representatives found good flocks of Black- I i» iWill 650 KEPOKT OF TARIFF BOABD OH SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 551 ilMl^ • top, Delaine, and RambouiUet sheep on farms that had carried (hem for many yeare, where the lambs were fattening perfectly and in show L^'ood S '*''^"™*' ^'"""^ ^^^"^ farms in our tabulations Other farmers breed all of their merino ewes to mutton rams, feed all of their lambs, and from time to time replenish their ewe flocks by purchase from their neighbors. These men usuaUy make money Ihe s}^tem naturally, js one that can be followed by only a hmited number, and it m probable that the grower from whom the owes are bought has found wool production an expensive business. lnx)m the foregoing It seems important for the sheep farmers of the hill regions of Ohio, Peimsylvania, and West Virginia to seek wherever possible to produce fat lambs as an effective means of abatmg then- wool costs. There are, however, certam difficulties, some of them serious, m the way. In much of the region m question the plow IS of httle use. The hillsides are too steep for culSvation Ihe land readily erodes, and there is never a surplus of com nor even always a sufficiency of hay. Before growera tere can adopt new methods they must buy corn, and this often at high prices ^id as they are not accustomed to speculation this wod^ not appeal to them. Not every year will be a profitable one to the feeder of lambs in ifT^' howejer, that the consumption of mutton is mcreasing s^Stc^^^^^^^^ "^^^ ^"^^^ *^^^ ^^^ ^ ^-- -- to I A branch of the sheep industr}- occasionally seen in this i-egion is the production of wmter lambs, sometunes called ''hothouse lambs " designed for the markets of the larger cities of the East. Merino ewes are good producers of these lambs, though crossbred merino ewc« are more piized The rams in use for this purpose are Dorset or Do^Ti or some other of the recognized mutton breeds. These iambs are born early perhaps in December, highly fed, and sent dressed to market, where they command high pri^. Naturally, wool production is but an mcident m this busmess. There are Ohio sheep breeders who sell large numbere of these spring lambs at very remunerative prices. In fact, this branch of the busmess when sldK fully and sucWully done is perhaps the most profitable of all sheep husbandly. Naturally, however, it is not a business capable of un- limited expansion, smce the prices that must be received for the iambs are necessarily high, as the expenses are great ^J^^'^Vt'^ occasional instances of stocking of fai-ms with Western ewes, Ihese are grade mermos of probably a considerable propor- tion of EambouiJlet blood. Such fl(5cks, bred to good mutton mms, produce fine lambs tjiat feed well, and the result of the whole opem! iTr. TJ?I ? successful. In Ohio these ewes have come more to the corn belt of the southwestern part of the State than to the eastern or true sheep-breedmg section. The western ewes are larger than the Ohio mermo ; as a class are strong. They are good mothers and grow lambs ea^y fattened, but do not produce the true Ohio typo of mermo wool. ^^ * THE FEEDING OF WESTERN LAMBS. r«;^I^^T*^^* ^1^^"^^^, industry is the feeding of western range-born lambs. This work is done mostly in winter. It is a bus? more along the western edge of tie region and ih Michigan, where it has assumed very large proportions. Naturally, lamb feeding is most seen in regions where corn, clover, and alfalfa thrive and are largely grown. In Michigan, where in certain counties it is an indus- try of great magnitude, the feeders produce only their hay, buying the gram fed from the West or using damaged grains from the ele- vators. It is not unusual to find a farmer handling 1,000 lambs, and occasionally one is seen who feeds 2,500 or more. Two men will feed 2,000 lambs ; thus the labor cost of feeding the large number is reduced. The feeding is done entirely under cover, usually in large bams built for the purpose. Tlie supply of feedera is brought from the great markets, Omaha, or Chicago, or Kansas City. Small, light lambs are usually chosen to be fed. Western lambs are healthy and feed well, especially when they have an infusion of mutton blood. They are given corn and hay, sometimes other grains, occasionally corn silage, for periods of 90 days or longer, and are sold fat all through the winter and spring months. Often they are shorn before selling. It has been lound impossible to secure accurate and satisfactory data of the costs of growing wool in these feeding barns because the business has in it so many of the elements of speculation. If the feeder buys his lambs in a low market and sells on a high one, he makes money; if he buys when lambs are abnormally dear and sells when there is a glut of fat stuff on the market, he loses perhaps all of the feed that he has fed the lambs. He may shear his lamos and sell the wool, but he con- siders that a mere by-product of his business. It is, however, safe to say that the lamb feeders as a class prosper, and their farms increase marvelously in fertility. In a series of years, despite the occasional periods of disaster which come from fluctuations in the sheep markets, caused largely by the variable sup- plies of feeders and fat lambs, many of these growers are making money. MIDDLE WESTERN STATES. The total number of farms reported by the census for 1910 from the States of Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri was 1,293,742. Of these 184,819, or about 14i per cent, reported sheep. The total number reported was 6,920,734, or a little more than 37 head for each fann keeping them. The figures above take no account of the number of farms on which western sheep and lambs are handled nor how many of these animals were fed during the census year. Were it possible to get at these figures they would undoubtedly add materially to the showing of sheep husbandry as a factor in the farm economy in the States under consideration. To realize that only one-seventh of the farms maintain flocks and to know that these flocks average only a little more than 37 head in number amounts to admitting that sheep do not feature in the farm economy of these States in a large way. It indicates that as a rule they are kept as a side issue and not as the main feature of the fann. On this account very few ownei*s of sheep know to what extent their flock reaUy figures in the farm economy. But usuaUy they know why, which is manifested in the reasons they give for keeping sheep. In the main these reasons are as follows: (1) They utilize what other- ...BJIIIITJIIJIHillllKllI KK9 BEPOKT OF TAHITF BOARD 02T SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 553 i ■hi i» Wfln "ii wise would be considered waste. (2) They destroy weeds and weed seeds. (3) They require less labor than other classes of live stock. (4) They are unexcelled by other animals in the production and dis- tribution of valuable manure over the land. (5) They improve the appearance of the farm. (6) They return good profits on the invest- ment.. The reasons enumerated above indicate what the average flockowner in the Mddle West will admit — that on account of the unavoidable presence of waste and weeds and the need for getting these tilings out of the way sheep figure not only in net profits but in labor saved. The sheep first introduced into tliis territory were merinos. To a l&Tge extent they have been replaced by the English mutton breeds during the last 25 years. Tlie merino was kept primarilj for its wool. Wlien that commoditv declined in price and land rose m value, they were not as profitable as other things the farmer could take up. Moreover, the demand for mutton increased, and this demand leaned toward lamb instead of the mature carcass. The old-time pure merino was not ideal for mutton and practically out of consideration as lamb. It was heavy in pelt, slow to mature, and lacking in the form and qual- ity expected of the choice or prime animal for mutton or lamb. Merino ewes were first crossed with mutton sires. The result was a great improvement in mutton quality. Later both males and females of the leading English mutton breeds were introduced and flocks purely of mutton blood established. During the earlier period in this evolu^ tion there was much mixing of breeds, wliich resulted in a considerable lack of uniformitv. This was emphasized not only by the crossing of breeds, but also by the use of grade and crossbred sires. The impor- tant thing which seems to be occurring at the present time is the more general use of piire-bred rams of the same breed year after year. This IS resulting in high-grade flocks of desirable quahty and uniformity for commercial purposes. Long wools were prominent amongst the earlier representatives of the EngHsh mutton breeds used. An appreciable number of pure-bred flocks were founded, but they failed to remain in favor because they were not health}^ when exposed to the van^dng cHmates of the Mddle West. Their wool being long and open alfowed the moisture to pene- trate to the skin, which caused cold and catarrhal complications to set in, and the result was a general decline in health. The Shropshire, Oxford, and Ilanipshire are the breeds most com- monly sought after now, except in Kentucky and Tennessee, where Southdowns are used. Of these the Shropshire leads, while the other two are being used in about equal numbers. It is said that 22 years a|jo there was but one breeder of Shropsliires in the State of Wisconsin. "Now there are many who are breeding good rams for the grade flocks of the home and neighboring States. Practically the same is true not only of Shropshires, Dut also of Oxford and Hampshires of all the other Statesunderreview,exceptIllinois, Indiana, Kentuckv, and Tennessee. The State last mentioned inclines strongly to Southdown, so also does Kentucky, but Shropsliires and Hampshires are graining there. In Indiana and Elinois, Shropshire flocks were established at an earlier date than in the other States. So far as noted there is no feeling that crossbred sheep are more profitable than high grades. Hence from the impetus f urnisned by the comparatively easy availability of pure-bred rams from the various breeders it would seem that before many years most of the commercial flocks will bear evidence of good breeding. In the territory under review the increase in ewes during the past 10 years has been only slightly over 5 per cent. A pronounced increase occurred in Missouri and Tennessee, fair increase m Minnesota, Iowa, Kansas, and Kentucky, and a shght increase in Illinois. Wisconsin, Nebraska, and Indiana showed a marked decrease. Increases and decreases are discussed in terms of ewes, because the census report for 1900 was taken June 1, while that for 1910 was taken April 15, oefore the lambing season was over in a number of the States. On tins account the two reports are not on a comparable basis were we to consider the total sheep and lambs enumerated. The causes of an increase in certain States and a decrease in others are reserved for later discussion. The following table shows the number of farms reporting sheep in the States under review for 1910 and 1900, and also the increase or decrease for each wState, as well as total decrease. States. Tennessee. Kentucky . Indiana . . . Illinois — Wisconsin , Minnesota. Iowa Missouri . - Nebraska . Kansas... Total decrease. 1910 45,707 29,978 38,191 26,262 30,040 24,564 21,810 44,010 3,043 3,143 266,748 ICOO Decrease. Increase. 50,835 5,128 7,927 9,865 37,905 48,046 25,422 47,061 840 17,021 3,492 28,056 18,788 38,013 3,022 5,997 2,764 279 2,095 l,04g 298,985 266,748 43, 423 11,186 11,186 32,237 32,237 Per cent decrease. 10.8. It significant to note that five of the States under review indicate a decrease in the number of farms reporting sheep and the remaining five an increase. Of those in the decrease column, three — Minnesota, Tennessee, and Kentucky— report an increase in ewes. This stronglv suggests an increase in average size of flocks in these States, although it may not be as great as the figures indicate. Kentucky and Ten- nessee are specializing in the production of spring lambs, and they are becoming more and more favorably known for the excellence of tins product. Obviously this is a business confined to certain localities, and the parties engaging in it would want to keep enough ewes to make it worth while to give them proper care and attention. It is likely then that small owners living outside the localities specializing in spring lambs have, on account of various discouragements, closed out their sheep, and the producers of spring lambs increased their ewe flocks. Nebraska reports a slight increase in the number of farms, but a decrease in the number of breeding ewes. This undoubtedly indicates the disappearance of flocks handled on the herding or semiherding plan, and the more general occurrence of the small farm flock. In Minnesota it would seem that dairying has supplemented many of the small flocks and that in regions favorable to sheep the size of flocks has increased. 554 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OH SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 555 IHiiiois shows a slight increase both in the number of farms report- in<3: sheep and in the number of ewes maintained. There is no mate- rial change in the size of flocks. Iowa has noticeably mcreased in the number of farms keeping sheep and also in numbers, but the average number of ewes per flock remains about the same. Missouri has greatly increased in botli the number of farms keeping sheep and in the number of ewes per farm; Kansas has increased both in Tarms and in number of breeding ewes, but the number of ewes per farm .lias decreased. In those cases where the number of farms has decreased and the number of slieep increased it is highly probable that tlie industry is l>eeoming more of a regular feature of the agricultural operations on the farms where they are kept. In other words, tins would indicate that there are fewer sheepmen temporarily in the business than formerly. ^ In States like Iowa and Illinois it is difficult to tell whether a greater or less percentage of owners are making the flock a regular feature of their farming operations, but the general impression is that the business isincreasing. Sheep feeding is more attractive to the man who does not intend to make sheep a regular feature in his farming. Tlie feeder sheep will clean up his farm and reheve him of a lambing season which the inexperienced man would rather avoid. Tlicre are a number of flockowners in every State who fully intend to keep sheep regularly, but for one reason or another dispose of them. Tins type of o%\Tier has worked harm to the permanence of tlie industr}-. He is vacillating toward sheep, but stubbornly persistent in staying with some other class of live stock. For example, it woidd take an immense amoimt of ill luck to drive a com-belt stockman out of the pig business or a Wisconsin dairjman awav from cows; yet such a man closes out his sheep if he has to deal with predatory dogs, stomach wonus, or fluctuating prices for lambs or wool. He injures the reputation of flock husbandry in his neighborhood and helps to fasten upon it the impression that it is an 'in-and-out" business. In Missouri, the evidence all indicates that farm flocks as a regiUar feature of agricultural operations are on the increase. As to increase in number of sheep and the number of farms reporting them the figures submitted are undeniable. Beef-cattle growing has been waning because of the expense of raising calves. Lamb raising is more profitable, and sheep can be worked into any system of fann- ing practiced in the State. Wlien raising beef calves was no longer profitable a search was begun for something to take its place, with the result that many took up lamb raising. Tliis has been the greatest factor in the growth of the sheep industrv in Mssouri. Tliese new men at the business are likely to make sheep a regular feature in their farm operations — at least until they are driven out through lack of profiti^. Tliey are fully awake as to the factors to take mto consideration in order to make the flock profitable, and amongst these tliat spasmodic investment and engagement are not advisable. Mssouri has a great deal of land ideal in topography as sheep runs. Such land may be found on nearly ever^ farm, and tliis is a factor which, once sheep have gained headway in importance, will further encourage people to make them a feature in the system of farming. The growth in the industry in Kansas and Iowa is perhaps due to the general and insistent advocacy of sheep on the average farm on the part of agricultural educators. In Iowa sheep-tight fences are general, and this is true to a certain extent in Kansas. This is a factor in making the farm flock more general. Wisconsin is conspicuous for her tremendous decrease in both the number of farms keeping sheep and the number of sheep during the last decade. The reason given is that dairying is more profitable than sheep raising, and the tendency is in that direction. Southeastern Wis- consin is within the zone that furnished milk to Chicago. It was in this district that the sheep population was once most dense ; but it can be just as truthfully said that Chicago' s milk demand drove them out as it can be that it closed the butter factories in the yicinity of Elgm. In other parts of the State cheese and butter making are enormous industries and still growing. The rural population is strongly infil- trated by immigrants from the milk, butter, and cheese making countries of the Old World, whose chief ambition is to own and to milk cows. These people, as a rule, have three-strand barbed-wire fences to restrain their cattle, but, with the exception of a small lot or two fenced for pigs, they have no fencing suitable for keeping sheep \\-iihin bounds. They doubtless regard the sheep a competitor mth the cow for grass, and hence a drawback to the main feature of the farm. It is admitted by many in Wisconsin that dairying is more profitable than sheep and that it will practically drive sheep raising out of the southern part of the State. Certain educators believe, however, that the land could be more profitably operated if fewer cows than neces- sary to consume the grass were kept and a few sheep placed on the farm to keep the pastures clean of v/eeds and to consume the grass that would have oeen eaten by the cows added if the land were stocked with cattle to its full capacity. In the light of present con- ditions there is no indication that this will occur or that the number of sheep will increase. There is room for the industry to grow in the northern part of the State and the friends of sheep are looking to that region with hope. MOVEMENT OP WESTERN SHEEP TO CORN-BELT FARMS AND FEED LOTS. Western ewes are frequently purchased by the farmers of this region for breeding purposes. In Missouri, Iowa, Ilhnois, and Indiana the practice is on the increase. One can hear both favorable and adverse reports about the results obtained from these ewes. Those in IVIissouri who are making a special study of the place for western ewes in that State claim that the adverse reports come from those who purchase ewes so old that they are no longer useful for breeding any- where. These same persons find the following advantages in the use of western ewes that nave good mouths, sound udders, and evidence of good shearing qualities. (1) They are more uniform in scale and breeding than the natives that can be purchased. (2) They are more healthy because they are not infested with stomach worms and not often with internal parasites of any sort. (3) It is more convenient to get them. An order for them can be placed with a commission firm on the open market who can fill the order according to instructions. It is next to impossible to get together a uniform lot of native ewes in MissourL 556 EEPOET OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 557 On tlie open market it would be a matter of making small selections for a series of clavs; in the country it would take much time in search- ing them out. ^(4) The change of environment from the West to ilfssouri causes western ewes to thrive better than natives picked up in the neighborhood. The v begin to gain in flesh almost from the start on the pastures which are more luxuriant than the range of their Bative home. One important effect produced by this change is that it permits of breeding early enough to have the lambs born in February or March, which means marketing in early summer before the run from the West starts. What is more important, they all breed at about the same date, so that the lambs are fairly uniform in age and weight at market time. The native ewes do not breed as early and it is not possible to get them in lamb at about the same time. (5) The man who breeds western ewes does not retain his ewe lambs for breeding puiposes because it can easily be demon- strated that it is more profitable to sell the lambs and to rephice breeding ewes b}^ purchase on the market. It is not necessarily true that all breeding ewes culled from western flocks are not useful if transfeiTcd to coni-belt fanns — it is only those tliat are advanced in age and are beginning to break down before they are sent to market by the western owner. "The large markets testify that it has not been easy to fill all the orders for western breeding ewes during the last three or four years. Several reasons are given. (1 ) There is a growing demand for these ewes in the East and the ^licldle West. (2) Until last 3'ear there was an expansion in the western industry wliich held most of the desirable ewes on the range. (3) The western o\^Tiers are more inclined than foniierl}' to sell off all their lamb crop and to retain their ewes as long as tliey are fit for breeding. In otlier words, many ewes decline in shearing qualities before tliey begin to go backward as producers of lambs and the latter is being taken as the basis for culling rather than the former. Wlien western ewes are bred to pure-bred mutton rams of desirable market t3'pe tliey produce lambs that sell well. Two reasons may be assigned for tlieir being favorably received by corn-belt farmers generally. (1) The scarcity of native ewes during the past few years. "(2) Western ewes are healthy. It is thought that they are not so resistant to disease after reaching tlie corn belt as native ewes — surely not more so, but they remain healthy for one or two seasons, after which they can be replaced by new purchases. "Wliether the practice of using western ewes will continue to increase is a mooted question. All of these ewes have some merino blood. In many of them this blood predominates, and most farmers in the States under review are not attracted to sheep of the merino tjve. In their opinion such sheep are not so comely m appearance as the tidy and stylish black-face breeds. Students of sheep farming think that western ewes belong to an "in-between" period— a period in which raisers have not attained their full possibilities in the production of lambs which discriminating consumers will admit are prime. ^ Such a period will not come uiitu methods of farming become more inten- sive and healthy natives more general. The bringing of western ewea from the range to corn-belt farms is not unlike the long-established practice in England and Scotland of bringing mature ewes from the tills to the lowlands and breeding them one or two seasons, Ther^ the practice is profitable, but the ewes brought from the hills are of mutton breeds with no admixture of merino. Bringing western ewes to com-belo farms may remain profitable for many years to come. Close students of the industry usually claim that at the present time the most profitable lamb raising is conducted on the following plan : (1) Purchase uniform western ewes direct from the range. See that they have good mouths, sound udders, and a prospect for shear- ing a good weight of wool. (2) Breed them to pure-bred mutton rams of approved market type. (3) Have the lambs born in Feb- ruary and March, so they can be marketed early before the heavy run from the West starts and before serious infestation with stomach worm is likely. (4) Dock and castrate the lambs. (5) Market all the lambs. (6) Have an adequate supply of harvested feeds to sup- plement feed in fields if necessary to keep ewes in good breeding con- dition. (7) Supply early succulent feed, such as rye. (8) Dispose of the ewes before they become seriously diseased or decrepit and buy in a new supply. FEEDER SHEEP AND LAMBS. The ordinary method of liandling feeder sheep and lambs in the Middle West has changed very materially in the past 10 or 15 years. At its inception this business was m the hands of men who not only purchased the animals but also all of the feeds. It was a speculative proposition in wliich it was easy to determine whether profits were secured or not. When both feeds and feeder animals were cheap, and there was a margin of $1.50 to $2 per hundredweight between purchase and sale price, the undertaking was profitable. For several years mill screenings secured at such points as Minneap- olis and St. Paul were the chief feed used, except in Kansas and Nebraska, where corn and hay were the cheap feeds. But the de- mands for screenings widened, prices advanced, corn and hay became more dear. The farmer saw opportunities in sheep feeding and began to bid agamst the large operators for feeders. The margins became so narrow that wide adverse fluctuations in the mutton market proved such a hardship on large operators that they began to close out. While some, notably in Kansas and Nebraska, are still following the practice, it is predicted that their day will soon pass from actuality to memory. There will continue to be some feeding of this type at the accumulating centers tributary to tlie large markets from the West, but beyond that very few if any sheep raisers in the territory under review will engage in tliis speculative feeding. Within a comparatively short time it was demonstrated that the farmer was in better position to feed sheep and lambs than the larger operator. He owns the plant on which the feeding is conducted and he has a great deal of aftermath in stubble and stalk fields wliich is of little or no value unless utilized by sheep. He would rather have the fertility returned to the soil in form of sheep manure than in decomposing vegetable matter. He feels that the sheep destroy weeds and weed seeds and thus render a service. The practice of feeding western sheep and lambs on farms has been mcreasmg, but there is no certainty of its continued growth. The plan of feeding is partly suggested above. In the main, it involves securing the feeders early enough in the autumn to consume the fall 5.58 BE:P0ET of TAEITF BOAKD 0,N SCHEDU'IiB K. growtli of grass and weeds. The}^ are usually turned into the corn- fields eitlier before or after the corn is harvested. In these fields there may or may not be a growth of soy beans or rape, and if the former, it is necessary to turn them in before time to harvest the com . Sometimes they are allowed to harvest the conij but more frequently to consume what com was overlooked in gatheiing, the edible part of tlie stalks, and theforaffe crop in thecom, if any. It may be possible to market the animals fat from the fields. Some do it regardless, but the more suc- cessful farmers finish with harvested feeds if necessary. It is often stated that half the gain necessary to put the animals in desirable finish for the market is secured in the fields. To do this, however, requires good judgment. It is frequently stated at the Cliicago market tliat western lambs are returned to the market no fatter or heavier than when they were sent to the country. In such cases it almost hi- variably happens that the owner attempted to fatten them in the fields and that he is a begirmer in the business. Uncertainty of market prices is the great disadvantage under which the feeder of sheep and lambs in the corn belt labors. Often what a man gains one year he loses the next. With many the wide fluctua- tions in price and the difficulties with wliich feeders are secured in certaui seasons precludes the idea of making slieep feeding a regular feature of the farm operations. In the faU and winter of 1909-10 the feeders of western sheep and lambs in lUmois made good profits. In the fall and winter of 1010-11 they suffered great losses, due en- tirely to a declining market. Progressive landowners encouraged their tenants to feed sheep m 1910-11.^ The proposition looked encour- aging. The result cured the ambition of the tenant from ever wislmig to try such a tlung again. It is just here that the increase of the practice of feeding sheep is threatened. Farmers do not propose to conduct it at a loss nor do they intend to equip themselves to engage in a practice which yields large profits one year and big losses the next. Regular, though smaller, profits are more welcome. Sliould the market become more stable, so tliat the feeder could feel assured that he would receive the margin due him between pur- chase and sale price, there would be no doubt as to the continuance of demand for western feeding sheep and lambs, for the labor required in handhng is comparatively small, particularly in the fall, when demands for labor are greatest. Sales are made before the busy spring season begins, so that at no point is there a serious conflict with tne busy seasons on the farm. The period lambs are kept on the farm, ©specially if they are fed, can be adjusted to suit the convenience of the owner. By feeding for a longer period large quantities of roughage can be consumed. If it is advisable to keep them for a short period, they can be finished in from 70 to 90 days by the liberal use of grain. Western sheep and lambs are healthy. Native sheep and lambs on our large markets are not classed as feeders. They have been tried, but seldom with success. The rate of mortality is great, because the}^ are nearly always infested with internal parasites and their ability to gain is very uncertain. Therefore sheep feeding in tlie corn Delt depends almost solely upon the supply of^ western feeders. BEPOBT OF TAEIFi BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 559 CHARACTER OF THE WOOL PRODUCED IN THE CORN BELT. As already stated, the blood of the English mutton breeds prevails in the flocks of the Middle West. Of the various breeds Sliropshires rank first, with Oxford and Hampsliires following. These breeds are not radically different in character of wool, and hence the wool prod- uct from the territory in question is fairly uniform in grade. Buyers who are informed on the subject concur in the statement that the great bulk grades one-fourth and three-eighths blood comb- ing. The estimates on the shrink in scouring vary from 35 to 48 per cent. The following summaries from different wool dealers indi- cate a great deal with respect to grade and shrink in scouring: Percent of whole amount reoeivod repre- sentpd by the grade. Party No. 1, Chicago, HL (States ISrom which d9iaestic wools uro purchased, Michigan, Wi«w>nsm, iBdiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Iowa). Party No. 2, Eichlaaid Center, Wis. (lian- dlcs wool from Wisconsin). Party Xo. 3, Cincinnal !,Ohio (handlrs Vv'ool from Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, and Illi- nois). Party No. 4, Kansas City, Mo. (spcnreswool from Kansas, Ncbroiika, Iowa, Missouri, and Arkansas). Party No, 5, Fort "Wayiio, Iiid. (answering for Indiana"). Party Ma 6, Louisville, Ky. {answering lor Kentucky). 35 15 30 10 5 5 30 40 10 10 10 Gradft. Per cent sbrinkin scouring. 15 35 20 13 5 i-Wood combing I-Wood combing i-Wood combing and dothini? Fine Beiaine and fine clothing Braid Burry and .seedy t blood combing - blood combing Low 1-combing Cx)ramon and braid Rekxjtion^ g-blood combing ^-blood combing Home clothing, little lino or merino, some cottcd, ^-blood combine: -] -blood combing (limitsd Qiraiilily nioliair). f-blood combing- J-blood combing {5-conibiag |-combing Baby combing. {-clothing Jraid 40-48 53-54 43-43 59-61 43-45 54 47-18 43 35-10 35-40 45-50 4(M5 jO-tSi 38 Very little luster and semiiuster wools are produced. In earlier days, when the use of long-wool blood was more common, these types were produced in considerable quantities, but now the amount is so small that it is almost a negligible factor. Because of the practice of using western ewes for breeding pur- l>oses and of feeding western sheep and lambs in the com belt a con- siderable quantity of wool is clipped from sheep shipped m. It is maintained that this wool retains essentially the same characteristics as western wool and the grades depend largely upon the breeding. If nearly or quite all the fleece is grown in corn-belt territory, it is usually lighter in shrink than similar wool produced on the range, because it is not so heavily impregnated with dirt. Wlien lambs are brought into the Middle West early in autumn and are kept on farms until shearing time, their fleeces are usually better than first-year fleeces on the range where such iambs are bred. They have received better feed for producing a long, strong staple and their wool is usually cleaner than it would have heen had they remained on the range. 560 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAKD 03^ SCHEDinLE K. BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 561 They come from the mountains where comparatively little dirt gets into the wool and are shipped East before they become very dirty. Often the wool clipped from mature feeding sheep is less desirable than wool of similar type clipped on the range. For example, Montana wethers may be shorn m March, while still in the feed lots, or just before going to market. Prior to this they were shorn in Montana in the month of June. Thus their growth of wool is only 9 months old and hence short and on that account less desirable than the clip on the range. The greater part of the so-called domestic wool is bought from the grower by local dealers who pay practically no attention to grades and not a great deal to condition. In order to stay on good terms with everybody they usually pay a uniform price for wool offered at any particular time. When such methods are employed, the less desirable offerings are likely to fix the price, and the grower is not educated through a comparison of differences when he markets his wool. However, most large dealers interviewed note considerable improvement of late years m the methods of handling wool by the grower. The wools are cleaner and there is less use of binder twine (sisal) than formerly. But there is a general complaint to the effect that there is a considerable amount of straw and seeds in the necks and backs, traceable to carelessness in methods of feeding. Cer- tain dealers still complain about the tags wrapped in fleeces. The improvement noted in the condition of fleeces is a healthy indication that the owner lays due emphasis on the importance of the wool in yielding a revenue from the flock. StIMMABY BY STATES. Supplementing the foregoing general review of conditions sur- rounding the maintenance of sheep in the Middle Western States, the following details concerning the situation as it exists in individual States are herewith submitted. INDIANA. During the past decade there has been a pronounced decrease in the number of famis in Indiana reporting sheep, due to several influences. In 1894. or close to that dat€, the stomach worm played havoc with many of the flocks, and ever since it has been a factor of depression to the industry. The wool and mutton markets have been very uneven and as a result there has been a tendency to be in and out of the business instead of making sheep a regular feature of farm operations. The farmers in the southern part of the State have not been able to market their mutton to good advantage because of there being no near-by market to handle the quality of mutton they produce. Indianapolis has never attamed proportions as a sheep mart, and the Cmcinnati and Louisville markets prefer the Kentucky and Tennessee sheep and lambs. It is said that the Kentucky lambs reaching Louisville have been fed grain in connection with grass while those of southern Indiana have not. The grain-fed lambs reach market without heavy shrinkage iind hence look better than the lambs off grass. They are in condition to be reshipped to larger markets, such as Chicago, while gaunt, grass lambs are not. Indiana never has been a sheep State as compared with her neighbors, Ohio and Michigan. At an earlier day when merino breeds were popular the sheep population in the northeastern part of the State was dense, but merinos never attained wide popularity in the south half of the State. Just why is difficult to state. It is probably true that the people were not inclined toward sheep. The predatory dog and poor marketing facilities were drawbacks which failed to bring sheep raising to the same level as other lines of live-stock growing. Twenty-five to thirty years ago there was a great deal of oak and beech mast that furnished feed for hogs, and in those days wheat, cattle, and hogs were the chief products sold off southern Indiana farms. There is a large area in this part of the State that is better adapted to grazing than anything else, and it would seem that flock husbandry would flourish there if proper encouragement were given. Flocks in Indiana are principally of medium wool mutton blood; Shropsliire predominates, but there are numbers of flocks showing Hampshire and Oxford blood. About 30 years ago there was besides merino a great deal of Leicester and Cotswold blood in the flocks, but these have been almost entirely replaced by medium wool breeds. The only change in breeding during recent yeai-s has been the continuance of this replacing and the more general use of pure-bred sires in grade flocks. Most flocks bear evidence of very good breeding, and were the methods of growing lambs better the owners would often market a prime product. As stated earlier in this discussion, it is not the custom to feed grain to lambs in the southern part of the State. It is common to market them without either docking or castrating. Too often the lambing period is extended over 8 to 10 weeks' time. Lambs marketed late often become infested with stomach worm, and hence reduced in flesh. All these factors operate to secure very unsatisfactory prices. Prob- ably the greater number of farmers look upon sheep as a means of I utilizing aftermath, picking up waste, and cleaning the fa/m. Very few make a special business or sheep except those keeping pure-bred » flocks, and hence there is little special provision for making the prod- ucts yielded by the flock first class in quality. The majority of lambs are born in March and April. Marketing begins late in June and continues until about the middle of December. The fall offerings average between 70 and 80 pounds. This light weight bears out the statement made above that the methods employed are not the best for producing a prime product. A number of farmers sliip in western ewes, breed them, raise a crop of lambs, and sell the whole outfit on the market. Others retain the ewe lambs from these ewes and breed them for one year, then sell them all off. Very few permanent flocks are built on a foundation of west- ern ewes. There is no evidence at hand to indicate whether the use of western ewes for breeding purposes is increasing or decreasing. Western wethers and lambs are bought and fattened for the mar- ket. As a rule the lambs are fattened on corn and clover hay in the dry lot. The wethers are either fed in the same wav or allowed to run in the cornfield for a time and then placed in the lot for finishing. It is doubtful whether sheep and lamb feeding is on the increasa 32080'— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1- 562 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. There is much variation in it from year to year. Last year (1910-11) was a record breaker for large numbers brought in and finished. Most of tlie parties handUng them lost money, and consequently few are feeding this year. The bulk of the wool sheared from Indiana flocks grades throe- eighths and one-fourth blood combing. It is said that there has been some improvement during recent years in the method of preparing It for market. However, there is still much carelessness m tlio quahty of twhie used for tying, and hi allowing foreign materials, such as chaff, burrs, etc., to get into the wool. Most of the wool is marketed through dealers who make little discrimination for varia- tions in quahty and condition of the different offerings. In many cases there are two sets of middlemen — a country buyer who sells to a large dealer in some town who in turn sliips to mills and commission houses. Most farmers keeping sheep have permanent pasture although a few are kept on farms tliat are entirely cultivated. In the southern part* of the State particularly the flocks are in the fields except durhig the most stormy weather, and a great deal of the mamtenance in the winter and all of it in summer is gathered by the slieep from the various fields on tlie farm. It is necessary to feed some grain a httle wliiie before and after lambing, particularly if the lambs are born early. Usually some hay is fed during the winter months to supple- ment the feed gathered in the fields. The agronomy department, college of agriculture, Purdue Uni- versity, estimates the cost of produchig corn at 25 cents per bushel or $13 per acre, and silage $1.50 to $1.75 per ton. Com is the chief grain fed to sheep although a quantity of oats is fed. Silage is com- ing into more general use all over the State and will naturally enter into the winter ration of the flock. Woven-wire fence is becoming more general all over the State, which is a factor that ought to encourage a greater prevalence of flocks. As yet Mttle attention has been given to making these fences dog proof. In the muimg sections of the State practically every miner owns a dog, and consecmentlv sheep have been forced out of a large area on tliis account. Tlie dog law is a very poor protection to the sheep owner, as it specifies that no more than market value can be secured for losses sustained. This is especially discouraging to the breeder of pure-bred sheep, and not sufficient for tlie owner of a tlirif ty flock of high grades. About 72 per cent of the land in Indiana is listed as improved farms. Of the remainder there are rough areas on wliich such ani- mals as sheep would do well, and undoubtedly there are areas on many of the farms listed as improved that are better adapted to grazmg sheep than to anytlung else. ILLINOIS. Ilhnois has never been thickly populated with sheep. Her greatest numbers were reported in the census of 1870. There was a noticeable thinning out in the next 10 vears, and since then numbers have remained about stationary. At one time (about 1870) the north- eastern comer and that region along the Alississippi about midway in the State were the parts reporting greatest numbers, but to-day the REPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED OK SCHEDULE K. 563 distribution is about the same for all parts. The preliminary report of the Thirteenth Census gives 26,262 farms reportmg sheep, which is an increase of 840 over the report of 1900. There was an mcrease of 32,265 in the number of sheep, which is sufficient to indicate that the industry held its own during the past decade. lUinois has a great deal of hill land bordering the rivers and smaller streams which is well adapted to sheep husbandry. In the southern part and the northwestern corner are largely unglaciated rough areas which seemingly are especially adapted to grazing. But 80 per cent of the State can be cultivated, and the greater part of this is level or gentlj' undulating prairie. That part lying north of the unglaciated area in the south and known as the lower and upper lUinoisan glacia- tions is flat and with such a subsoil that it does not drain well. Sheep are kept on this land, but because of poor drainage it is not regarded as ideal for them. North of this hes the com belt proper of Illinois. This area varies from level to undulating excef)t along the streams, where it is hilly. Practically all of the com land is sufficiently well drained to keep sheep, but is so valuable for grain growing that there is a tendency to place so much of it under cultivation as to result in a shortage of summer feed. A farmer o^vning 860 acres of such land was asked whether the maintenance of farm flocks as a regular feature of agricultural operations is on the increase or decrease in his community, and he replied: "On the decrease, because of the great f)rofits of grain farming. I got over $50 per acre for a field of com ast year." This man has kept sheep all his hfe. His father kept them in large numbers on the same land where grain farming has become so profitable and where the son now keeps only 100 to 500 head. The rise in the price of grain and the adaptatihty of the land for growing it have changed the attitude toward sheep raising. In former days the flock was kept to return profits through the consumption of grass crops ; to-day it is kept to consume noxious weeds in the stubble and com fields, to gather what otherwise would be wasted, to return fertility to the soil, and to yield a fair profit on the investment. It must do all these tilings on such lands if it would not be discarded. A great deal of this valuable land is operated by tenants, who, as a rule, are either averse to handling sheep or not financially able to invest in thein. Besides, much of it is not fenced to keep sheep within bounds, so that the renter could not keep them if he would. It is only natural for the tenant to seek systems of agriculture that will yield the largest immediate income for the labor and capital he can mvest, and to keep moving to places where such opportunities are presented. Moreover, he is usually subjected to sigmng up under a one-year lease, which gives him httle encouragement to invest in five stock even if other conditions, such as adequate fencing and buildings, and prices for stock, are tempting. His assurance as to period of tenure covers such a short time that heavy invest- ment in live stock would smack purely of speculation, the outcome of which could hardly be guessed at. In the discussion above there is a lurking suspicion that the landlord is at fault fully as much as the tenant with respect to keeping live stock. However, we can not know until the inclination and abifity of the tenant to handle animals are determined. In the absence of full returns from the 1910 census it is not possible definitely to determine whether the sheep industry in Illinois is disap- 664 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 565 pearing in some localities and increasing in others. Some observers report tliat all the large flocks of 25 years ago are gone. This is undoubtecOy true, and they state further that there are more small flocks ranging in numbt^j from 10 to 50 head; others report very Httlo cliange; some tell of a decrease, while fully as many more declare that the industry is on the increase. There is a slight indication that flocks are chminishing in the dairy regions in the north and in the best of the com belt. If this be true, then it has increased in the regions where the soil is not so fertile. According to the census report for 1910 the average number of ewes ke|>t on farms reporting sheep was 22.4. One hundred and twenty-nine acres represents the average farm in size. Putting these together it looks as though the flock is maintained principally to keep do\ra weed gro\i^h and to utilize what can not profitably be consumed by other live stock. There, however, is a small percentage of flocks wluch are made a re^lar feature of the farm to help in the consump- tion of grass and other crops. Shropshire and other Down blood prevails in most of the flocks. Minois, like her sister States, Iowa, Missouri, and Indiana, has a large percentage of flocks h&d\y mixed in breeding. Like these States, too, she has dropped merino for the British mutton breeds, and for the same reasons, namely, that the decline in price of wool and the rise in price of land made the production of wool no longer profitable. Nowhere in the State is the production of wool the primary object, but it is regarded as a necessary consideration with lamb growing to make sheep pay. In the selection of breedmg ewes attention is usually given to their shearing qualities. As stated above, mutton blood predominates, and of the mutton breeds the Shropshire has the lead. The longwools, more generally used 15 or 20 years a^o, are disappearing. There are a few toward the south and west side of the State. Native merino grades are kept in a few sections, but not to any great extent. Western ewes are used in various sections, and it seems as though this practice is increasing; but it is doubtful whether these ewes fall into the hands of men who intend regularly to make sheep a feature of the farm. Such circumstances as an unusual amount of grass or clover land for a certain year may cause the owner to buy them to raise a crop of lambs and wool while they consume this surplus, which is not fre- quently to be found on the farm. The use of pure-bred rams is becoming more general, but grade rams of inferior market type are stiO too widely tolerated. The man with the small flock often feels he can not afford to pay for a pure-bred ram, and hence takes an ordinary grade from his neighbor on basis of open-market quotations. Tms statement applies not only to Illinois, but also to her sister States. Most lambs are bom in March and April ; some earlier and a few later. The plan is to have the lambs bom before the spring work becomes pressing, so that there may be time to care for them. If the owner has good early grass, he may delay lambing until April, so that the lambs may early supplement mother's milk with the tender growth. It is usual to raise from 90 to 120 percent. . Most growers woidd say they average 100 per cent at market tunc. One criticism which can be frequently made is that the lambing period extends II^Hll m over too much time, making the crop uneven in age and size, and hence more difficult to market than a uniform lot. The marketing extends from early summer to the winter months. A few owners ship direct to market, but the greater number of lambs are gathered up by local traders or drovers. It is difficult to tell who is at the greater disadvantage in trading, the drover or the owner. The owner usually does not have many buyers for his lambs — the local butcher is hardly a consideration — because the country and small towns are very light consumers of mutton, and to this extent he is at the mercy of the drover. But the owner insists on selling his whole offering, some of which may be desirable from the market standpoint and the remainder not. The offerings are small, and pur- chases have to be made from several sources before a shipment can be made up. This is another drawback in securing a uniform and desirable lot. Without attempting to determine who is at the worse disadvantage, it is sufficient to say that difficulty in marketing satis- factorily discourages a great many in the business, and it is one of the factors retarding the industry. Most of the lambs are sold from the grass, without having received grain. Those who lamb in March usually feed grain to the ewes, and frequently to the lambs in creeps. When grass comes, usually all grain feeding is stopped, and not resumed unless the lambs are not marketed until late autumn or early winter. Tne greater part of the shearing is done in May. The average weight of fleece is 7 pounds. According to the census for 1910, there were 661,484 wool-producing sheep in the State. A small percent- age of the wool is shipped direct to large wool houses, but most or it is gathered in by local dealers, who are not inclined to pay for it according to condition and grade. In fact, few of them know anything about grading. Each fleece is tied separately, and the condition m wliich the wool is marketed is improving. From those farms where there is little or no pasture and the sheep are kept in odd lots, stubble, and cornfields the wool is likely to be hurry. The bulk of the wool grades one-fourth .and three-eighths combing. A very small quantity of luster and demiluster wool is produced, but so little that it is hardly worth comment. There is considerable wool from western sheep sheared within and marketed from the State each year. So far as grade is concerned, it is essentially the same as it would have been m the West, except length of staple, which is often shorter, because it is clipped before it has attained 12 months' growth. The pasturing season in Illinois extends from May 1 to November 1 in most of the State. The time may be a little shorter in the north- em part and longer toward the south. It is probably true that the great majority of owners never have their sneep out of the fields except incase of deep mud or snow. In some of the very best com-» mercial flocks, harvested feeds are not fed before lambing time, except during storms, when running in the fields is not advisable. In others a little is fed before lambing starts, and all usually feed grain and roughage after lambing until the pasture season opens. Probably the amount of grain averages 1 pound per ewe per day made up*^ chiefly of com and oats, and the roughage about 3 pounds (clover hay) , provided the ewe is kept in dry lot. The period of regularly feeding harvested feeds would not be over 60 days. The cost of feeding a ewe for a year together with her lamb until it reaches 666 BEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Miarketable age, according to usual estimates, varies between $2 and $3.50. The estimates on tlie income from the ewe will approximate $4 for the lamb and $1.50 for the fleece. There are estimates which come on either side of these liscures, and not enough of definite data are available to make a rehable approximation. There are retarding influences to flock husbandry in Illinois. Like practically every other Middle West State, the predatory dog receives emphatic mention as a curse to the cause. There are many Isolated owners who are powerless to organize against this enemy. The stom- ach worm has been a serious menace for a number of years. As to whether sheepmen will be able to keep this pest under control has not yet. been settled, but it is undoubtedly true that many have given up sheep raising because of it. Wliere flocks are badly iifested profits are out of the question. A great many farms are not fenced to restrain sheep, and it is argued that the owner can not afl'ord to fence, particularly if he ia practicing grain farming. It may be said that established practice IS another retarding iniluence. As stated early in this discussion, the State never has been thickly populated with sheep. It is common for men to remark that they are entirely without experience with sheep, and hence doubtful as to their ability to handle them. This doubt keeps them out of the business. Sheep feeding is on the increase. It is principally in the hands of farmers who buy one or a few carloads to clean up the farm. How- ever, there is a great deal of feeding '4n transit," ^liich is more or less speculative in nature. Tliis sort of feeding is done mainly at the accumulating or feeding stations located on the railroads tributarv to Chicago from the West. Sometimes the sheep on feed are owned by the growers, who not being equipped to feed at home move them into the corn belt and finish them before marketing. But often they are o^^Tied by speculators who wish to be within easy distance of the market, so that they may avail themselves of any sudden advance in prices. Not infrequently sjieep and lambs are shipped into these stations half fat for the ostensible purpose of topping and marketing the fatter ones whenever the market suits. Thus the feeding period ranges from a few days up to about a hundred, the full time necessary for sheep or lambs in the dry lot to take on a good market finish. Just what this type of feeding means to the State is difficult to deter- mine, but probably not a great deal above the gratifying sense of furnishing me locations where thousands of sheep are housed and fed. Most of the feed is shipped in; all the sheep come from the western markets; the manure produced is manufactured into fertilizer and shipped East and South. - The feeding done by farmers is of significance to the State, because home-erown crops are consumed on the land and a part of the fertihty utilized in producing these crops returned to the soil. The methods followed vary, but in nearly all cases one of the cliief objects is to have the sheep or lambs eat the fall growth on the meadow lands, in the stubbie fields, and to clean up the stalk fields. One careful farmer estimates that his buskers are leaving 5 bushels of corn per acre in the field this year. The yield is much lower than usuaL But tliia 5 bushels per acre, together with the stalks, furnishes a great deal of feed toward fattening lambs. Often rape is sown in the corn at the BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 567 last cultivation, and this, together with the stalks, makes excellent feed. Both short and long feeding periods are in vogue. If the supply of green feed, such as blue grass, 3'oung clover, and meadow, is snort, it may not be advisable to feed for a long period, for some of tliis feed is considered beneficial and almost necessary throughout the feeding period unless the lambs are moved into dry lots and red clover hay ana perhaps silage along with the grain. IOWA. Iowa has never been considered a State strongly inclined toward sheep. They were first introduced at the southeastern corner of the State from where the distribution gradually extended to the north- west. Only one census, that for 1900, shows a pronounced thinning out of sheep in Iowa. Barring this period, the growth of the industry has been giadual and healthy. The preliminary statement of the Thirteenth Census shows an appreciable increase in sheep husbandry in Iowa over that given in the census report for 1900. The farms reporting sheep and lambs numbered 21,810 as against 18,788 for 1900; the number of sheep reported w^s 1,145,549 as against 1,056,718. The report for 1910 shows an increase of 100,583 ewes but a decrease of 23,218 lambs. Tliis undoubtedly shows that the census of 1910 was taken before the close of the lambing period for the year while that of 1900 was not. The sheep first introduced into Iowa were chiefly merinos. The returns on their wool made them profitable until pnces declined and Values for land rose. When this time came and when mutton pro- duction became an appreciable factor the English mutton breeds were introduced. The rams of the mutton breeds were Used on the merino ewes and good market lambs were produced by this cross. Grade merino flocks are still numerous in the southern and southeastern parts of the State and they yield good returns in market lambs and wool. However, the prevailmg blood is Shrepshire, Hampsliire, and Oxford. There are many good grade flocks of these breeds and the use of pure-bred rams is becoming more general. Iowa has quite a large number of breeders of pure-ored sheep who are well organized for promoting the Use of pure-bred sires. It may be said that the increase in sheep in Iowa during the past 10 years is the result of the growing realization that the small flock is profitable on the average farm. Agricultural educators have preached all over the State for the small flock for keeping the farm clean of weeds and for returning a good profit when weU handled. At the agricultural college and in the various centers where short courses in agriculture have been given, the desirability of a flock of sheep as a feature in a diversified system of farming has been urged upon the people to such an extent that they are gradually taking up the proposition. The universality of the hog in Iowa has made conditions more favorable for keeping sheep. The necessity for fencing in the fields and pastures to provide a run for hogs has resulted in inclosures suitable for restraining sheep. Another factor making conditions more favorable is a law enacted by the State assembly a few years since which provides that line fences shall be sheep and nog proof if either or both parties so desire. Iowa has plowed up many 568 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. of her permanent pastures in recent yeare because of the high pricea ruling for corn, and it is barely })ossible that the restriction of pasture Ms worked toward increasing the number of sheep and diminishing the number of cattle. Fortunately, however, for Iowa the general use of the sdo haa come in before the numbers of live stock have greatly dimmished, and the farmers are thus enabled to devote greater areas to crops without having to reduce their live stock. The use of silage warrants better winter care for the flock, and through its use Iowa undoubtedly will gain in its wool and lamb crops. The farms of Iowa average 158 acres in area. There has been a tendency for farms to increase in size, but it is thought that a reverse movement will occur before long. Many farmers have sold out and taken residence upon the cheap lands of the Northwest only to find disai)pomtment m income and the mode of living. To cure their discontent it is })redictcd that they will return to their home State and invest m land. If this prediction proves to be correct there is no indication that flocks will increase in size, and perhaps they will become smaller. The only assumption that can reasonably be made IS that the sheen raised in Iowa will be grown in small flocks where lambs are the cliief consideration and wool is an important sui)ple- ment. Growers are not unmindful of the returns coming from the wool, as evidenced by their care in the selection of breeding stock that will shear well. ^ DairyinF is increasing in Iowa, but students of the situation do not feel that this industry will crowd sheep out. Much of the milk goes to the ice-cream trade and not to supply large cities ^ith milk as in Wisconsin. The cheese industry is a negligible factor, with small probability that it will ever attain large proportions. Hence it is clear that dairyii^ in Iowa is less intensive in tvpe than that of Wis- consin and, further, the farmers are not so tlioroughly imbued >\'ith tiie idea of dairying. According U> the preliminar}- report of the Thirteenth Census, the average number of ewes in Iowa on farms reporting sheep was 31. The predominance of blood ranks in about the following order- Shropshire, mixed or indefinite, Oxford, Hampshire, merino, Cots- wold, and Lincoln. Most of the lambing occurs in March and April— some is delayed until May. It is estimated that most growers raise 1 00 lambs to 1 00 ewes. Marketing begins in June and continues untu late in autumn. Shearing begins in April and continues up into May. The better flocks average about 8 pounds per head, but the figure for the State IS something like 6.75 pounds. The preliminary census report for 1910 gives 769,917 wool-producing sheep for Iowa. This would make the total wool output for the year about 5,196,940 pounds. Of this about 75 per cent is of a type known as Shropshire, whicli grades one-fourth and three-eighths blood combing, the greater part being one-fourth blood. In the southern and southeastern parts of the State there is a quantity of wool wliich grades almost identically with the Ohio Delaines. In the northern part there is a great deal of wool which borders between one-fourth blood and common combing. Twenty-five years ago Iowa produced a considerable quantity of long wool wMch might be graded as luster wool and the crosses of long- wool sires on native stock as demiluster, but there is comparatively little of either to-day. The one-fourth and three-eighths blood REPOET OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 569 combing wools shrink about 47 per cent in scouring and the fine wool about 65 per cent. There has been improvement in the methods of growing and pre- paring wool for market. The flocks receive better winter care, wliicli results in a stronger, more even staple, and the use of soft twine for tying fleeces is more general than formerly. Good packing seems to vary with prices for wool. If prices are low, more tags and other foreign material are in evidence than when prices are high. In other words, it would appear that the grower attempts to make up in weight what he loses in price per pound. There is a quantity of western wool clipped in Iowa. A number of western ewes are brought in for the production of lambs, and not a few western lambs are sheared before they are marketed. The amount of tliis kind of wool marketed each year is a very uncertain quantity. The feeder may, because of weather or market conditions, be led to shear his lambs one year and not the next. The Schuerman Woolen Mills, of Des Moines, send agents through the State and purchase wool direct from the grower. Large clips of western wool are often purchased by representatives of large wool houses, but a great deal of the wool in the State is gathered in by local dealers. A representative of the Schuerman mills stated that they usu- ally pay the grower 1 cent per pound more than the local dealer does. Sheep in Iowa are, as a whole, on pasture from May until November, inclusive. Many farmers have them on the land all the year except in times of deep mud and snow. Harvested feeds, such as clover hay, com stover, corn silage, corn, and oats, have to be provided for the winter months. Very little grain is fed before the lambing period. The estimates placed on the value of blue-grass pasture, of wliich nearly all farms have an area, vary widely. In the southern part of the State, on land ranging from $60 to $75 per acre in value, this grass rents from $2 to $4 per acre for the season. Dogs and wolves are liindrances to the growth of flocks in Iowa. An attempt has been made to get a more adequate dog law, but without success. Doubtless further effort is forthcoming and will continue until a satisfactory statute is made. Stomach worms are a dreaded pest and often wreck a prospect for prime market lambs. Undoubt- edly they have checked the growth of the industry. Sheep feeding in Iowa is widely engaged in. The growth in tliis practice has been pronounced during the past decade. Whether it will or should remain a regular and prominent feature is a matter in wliich opinions differ. It is speculative in nature, but on the whole profitable after the operator has gained some experience at handling feeder sheep and lambs. The plan almost universally followed is to turn the feeders into the pastures, and clover, stubble, and corn fields for a period of from two to three months. Often tliey are marketed direct from the fields, but some feed in the barns after the fields have been eaten out. The criticism often leveled at Iowa feeder operators is that they do not finish their lambs before marketing. It is claimed that because of lack of shelter and sometimes of harvested feeds, the lambs are rushed to market when the first snow flies, regardless of condition. In recent years many consignments have been in the hands of beginners who fail to put appreciable gains on their lambs and this has caused the market to ridicule the farmer feeder. But 870 BEPOBT OF TAHIFF BOABD ON SCHEDtJLE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTJLF K. 571 expeneBce will, change matters and it is not improbable that the corn-belt lamb feeder will attain the high repute enjoyed bv the expert in Michigan, Iowa is well located for securing and marketing sheep and lambs. With the Omaha market at their western border and the Cliicago market within easy shipping chstance to the east, it is difficult to conceive of a more favorable location. If Iowa can not make the feeding of the western sheep and lambs profitable, there is either something wrong with her methods or the whole feeding area in this country is conducting the business at a loss. But as stated above it has been profitable on the whole. When we recall that an appreciable number of western ewes are brought into Iowa for breeding besides the large number of sheep and Iambs for feeding, we are forcibly impressed with the fact that a marked reduction of the supply from the W^est would be keenly felt. It has been suggested that grade ewes of the English Do\ni breeds will gradually take the place of the western ewes, but no pre- diction has been made with reference to what would take the place of feeder sheep were the supply greatly curtailed or entirely cut off. Iowa is essentially a Mve-stock State. Much of her area, though fertile, is rolling and adapted to live stock. Her soil is responsive to either good treatment or abuse. Live stock and manure have been among the secrets of remunerative crops and success. With the exception of a wide and deep dip into the State from the north, the land is inchncd to be rolling and suited to hve-stock husbandry. It is thought that on such lands Hve stock will continue to doininate and that sheep mil be a feature, provided prices for mutton and wool remain on a parity with other live-stock products. WISCONSIX. According to the preliminary- statement of the Thirteenth Census the decrease in farms reporting sheep and lambs in Wisconsin between 1900 and 1910 was 17,021 or a decrease of 36.1 per cent; the decrease in sheep and lambs was 745,670 head or a decrease of 44.5 per cent. The decrease in ewes was from 918,638 to 588,628 or 330,010 head; in rams and wethers from 67,574 to 39,911 or 27,663 head; in lambs from 689,241 to 301,244 or 387,997 head. The decrease in lambs un- doubtedly represents a discrepancy due to the fact that the enumera- tion was taken April 15, 1910, before the lambing season was over, while that of 1900 was taken June 1, previous to which time prac- tically all the lambs for the year were bom. In spite of this fact, however, it is undeniable that there has been a pronounced decrease in the numbers of sheep in Wisconsin and a few of the causes are apparent. Sheep first came into Wisconsin at the southeastern corner. From here the distribution g^radually extended north and west, but the greatest numl>er8 remained in the south. The flocks were large in comparison with those in the same region at the present time and almost without exception these sheep of earlier days were merinos whose wool was the chief source of the income they*^ yielded to their o^raers. In southeastern Wisconsin particularly, sheep were main- tained in greatest numbers from about 1870 to 1880. Between 1880 and 1890 there was a marked diminution and the rapid progress of the thinning out process was unmistakably expressed in the census report of 1900. \\ hv this rise and fall in the industry ? During the period of expansion it is obvious that wool secured an adequate income to landowners through the medium of merino sheep. However, this was at a time prior to the great expansion of the sheep industiy in the West, and before the demands of Chicago for milk reached far into the country. It was also before the demand for lamb and mutton reached important proportions. Prices for wool declined at about the time the demand for milk arose. Hence, there was a double reason for rapid decrease in the number of sheep. A point was soon reached where the sheepmen realized tliat the fleece alone could not make the sheep profitable. Coupled with this realization was the observation that tliere was a growmg demand for mutton, particularly lamb. The old-time pure merino was far from ideal as a mutton product and practically out of consideration as lamb. This unfitness for meat-market demands led to the introduction of English mutton blood*. Longwool sires were first crossed on the merino ewes, and later, the English Down breeds, both rams and ewes, were introduced to such an extent that at the present time there are very few pure or grade merinos in the breeding flocks of the State. But the combination of lamb and wool could not hold out against Chicago's demand for milk in southeastern Wisconsin, and seemingly it can not successfully cope with milk, butter, and cheese production all over the southern half of the State. Whatever may have been the cause of their coming, it is singularly true that the large immigration of Germans, Swiss, and Norwegians into Wisconsin has favored the dairy cow and not the sheep, for these people naturally incline to dairying. And they have so permeated the part of the State under discussion that other nationalities are practically forced to adopt their B3"stem of agriculture. Other retardations to the sheep industry in Wisconsin are lack of sheep-tight fences, infestation with internal parasites, and predatory dogs. In the days when sheep were more prevalent in the southern part of the State most of the farms were adequately fenced with rails, out these are gone, and with the exception of one or two lots fenced to restrain hogs, the greater number of farms have nothing better than the 3-strand barb-wire fence to keep live stock within bounds. This precludes keeping sheep, and whether the European immigrant will witliin the near future resort to fencing suitable for restraining sheep is purely problematical. First of all, he is so tliorouglily imbued with the idea of keeping cows that they receive practically all of his time and consideration. Again, he is very likely from a country where herdmg is cheaper than fencing, and lie regards fencing as an exorbitant expense which a good citizen should avoid by erecting as fit tie as jwssible. With lus present understanditig it is not likely he \viil mtroduce a class of stock which seems solely a competitor with the cow for the grass and at the same time an added expense by requiring better fencing. It is a mooted question whether the land could not bo more profitably operated if tne owner were to keep fewer cows than necessary to consume his grass and to supplement with a com- paratively small flock of sheep. But should this be demonstrated as undeniably true, it would doubtless require an active campaign of education and perhaps a scare resulting from a reduction of the incre- ment of profit m dauy cows before a perceptible adoption of the com- 572 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. bmation of cows and sheep would occur. Such occurrence is more hkdy to come indirectly through a realization that the hog, a consumer of the dairy by-nroducts, is much more economically grown on pasture than in the dry lot. When pasture provision is made for swine by the building of hog-tight fences which are also sheep-tight, sheep to keep do\TO the weeds and to consume a part of the grass will seem more feasible. The above facts are represented in order to show that the place for sheep (or the lack of it) m southern Wisconsin, has not been demonstrated or settled. At the present time the flock, where kept, IS a feature in a diversified system of farming. Handled in this way, essentially all owners and students of agriculture who have given the matter thought unqualifiedly declare them a profitable adjunct of the farm. Internal parasites, particularly stomach worms, have been a dis- turbing factor in the sheep business in Wisconsin, but the infestation is becoming better understood and owners know better how to guard against it. Before owners knew anytliing about stomach worms the attacks were so severe and losses so great that manv became dis- couraged and closed out then* sheep. Hence this pest has been more of a retarding factor in the past than at present. The predatory dog is vanously estimated as a retarding factor to the sheep industry. By some persons he is considered the greatest of all hindrances to its development. In locahties where flocks are common the owners of sheep usually organize to protect themselves against dogs, but even then there are occasional attacks. The isolated owner is in the worst predicament of all because he has no one to cooperate with him against the enemy. In such instances dog owners are far more numerous than owners *^of sheep and the result is that the dog is given the benefit of doubt in case of depredations. Wisconsm, like her sister States, is badly in need of a law placing such obligations upon owners of dogs that the tramp canine, who is usually the depredator, will cease to be. So lar this discussion has dealt mainly with southern Wisconsm, although occasionally observations have "been made which apply to the State as a whole. Xorthem Wisconsin is considered by many as the most suitable territory in the State for the development of the sheep industry. There the land is comparatively cheap and undeveloped. It is not within the zone supplying milk to any lai-ge city and tne lon^ winters are not favorable to cheese production. While dairying will be an industry in tliat section, it is not expected it will attain the intensity that cliaracterizes it in the southern part of the State. Sheep tlirive in northern Wisconsin. On the burnt and cut^over timber lands blue grass and the clovers grow luxuriantly. So far tlie owners have not displayed an adequate knowledge of sheep husbandr}^, as they are usually poorly provided with good hay and grain for winter care. Those Closely m touch with conditions say that, provided with suflicient good winter feed tlie owner can grow fully as good wool in northern Wisconsin as in any part of tlie State, and the same is true of lambs. Once more the nature of the population plays an important rdle in the growth of the industry. Many of the farmers in the terri- tory under consideration were lumbermen, and hence not clever at farming or at handhng live stock. Others are foreigners not used to sheep, and nearly all feel themselves too poor to provide adequate REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 01^ SCHEDULE K. 573 buildings. It is felt that tlie great need amongst them now is educa- tion in flock husbandry. And when tlicy attain the knack of capable shepherding, it is thought that their floclcs will rank with the best in the production of lambs and wool. As p> rule Wisconsin farms are from 40 to 120 acres in size. Since sheep factor in the farm economy as a feature of a diversified system it is obvious that the flocks would be small. Various estimates place the size of flocks from 25 to 50 breeding ewes, while the preliminary report of the census for 1910 gives the average number as slightly less than 20 ewes to each farm reporting sheep. With the average Wisconsin sheep grower the production of lambs receives first con- sideration, although the better growers select their breeding stock and give them good winter care with a view to producing a good weight of wool. The lambs are born in March and April. As a rule the lambing period extends over five or six weeks. It is intended to have the Iambs born before the busy work of spring opens up, so that no extra help is necessary during the period when the flock requires close attention. Estimates on per cent of lambs raised vary from 100 to 125 per cent in southern Wisconsin to 75 per cent in the northern part of the State. Marketing in the southern part begins in June and the bulk is sold out by August 1. The grower sells to the local butcher, who caters to the demands of transient summer residents. The butcher contracts for the lambs and takes them from the grower as needed. He begins selecting when the lambs vreigh from 45 to 50 pounds, and toward the close of the season weights run as high as 60 to 70 pounds. In the northern part of the State the green feed is not early enough to have the lambs born early and ready to market during the summer months. In that territory, too, there is an abundance of fish and game and hence not the local demand for lambs that the sheepmen in the southern part of the State enjoy. The lambs are usually marketed in the fall months and frequently after a feeding period in dry lots. As a rule the lambs not sold locally are gathered up by drovers. These parties are more discriminating than formerly as to the differ- ence in the quaUty of the lambs they buy, and in locahties where the drover can secure a carload he buys on fairly close margins, but the isolated grower usually has to allow him a wide margin. Most of the shearing is done in ^lay. Both machine and hand shearing are practiced. Formerly much of the shearing was done in June, but the time has changed because the ewes do better if they are sheared before they are turned from winter quarters to pasture. It is thought that the earfier shearing does not diminish the weight of the clip, because the fleeces are more nearly intact than if sheared later, ana they are surely in better condition with respect to grease and tags. The average weight of fleece is estimated at from 7 to 8 J pounds. The prevailing blood in the flocks is Shropshire and Oxford, and the wool grades one-fourth to three-eighths combmg. In the western part of the State some common combing and braid wools are pro- duced. Too many flocks in Wisconsin are allowed to run to barley- straw stacks in winter where they get the barley beards in the wool, but aside from this the wool is marketed in fairly good condition. The greater part of the wool is gathered up by local dealers, who give 574 REPOBT OF TARIFF BO^ilD ON SCHEDULE K. very little encouragement in better prices to farmers ofifering superior clips. Few iigures are aTailable on the cost of maintainiiig slieep in Wis- consin. It is estimated b\^ those having long experience with sheep in the State that in the southern part, on land valued at from $75 to $200 per acre, it will cost $4 to keep the breeduig ewe one year. Others estimate that the wool will pay for the ewe's keep, provided she shears 8 pounds and it is sold at 25 cents per pound. Tiiis places the cost of maintaining at $2 per head. 'So such claim is made, however, except in those cases where the sheep are considered to live part of the time on what would othen¥ise be wasted. In southern Wisconsin sheep ai^ given harvested feeds for about five montiis in the year, approximately from November 15 to Apiil 15. In the northern part they should be fed at least six montlis. Clover hay, straw, com fodder, com silage, bran, and oats are the chief feeds used. It is rarely that grain is fed before three weeks prior to lamb- ing. Tlie amount fed per head nmges from one-fourth pound per day before lambing up to 1 pound during the suckling period. The suck- ling ewe in addition to this is fed 2 to 3 pounds of com silage and all the clover she will eat. The lambs are usually provided with grain in creeps. On the majority of farms keeping sheep there is some broken land, suitable neither for cultivation nor as pasture for heavy animals, such as dairy cattle. What this land is worth as a sheep ran those inter- viewed were unable to deteraaine. Also, many owners of slieep sow areas to rye, which not only is hai-vested for grain, but is pastured in the autunin and spiing. No estimate was placed on the value of this forage. It is probably such situations as these, together with the aftermath in stubble fields, that keep })roduction costs comparativelv low and cause owners to estimate that a ewe's fleece bringmg $2 ^^ill pay for her keep. feveryone interviewed stated that the sheep of Wisconsin have been greatly improved in breeding in recent years. As stated above, the prevailing blood is Shiopshire and Oxford. The use of pure-bred rams is general, and many of the grade flocks closely approach the pure breds in appearance. Very few western ewes are bought in and fcred in the southern part of tho'State, but farmers in the north secure them from the South St. Paul market. But this practice is not extending, and it can not be said that Wisconsin is seriously depending on the West for her supply of breeding ewes. Western lambs are fattened on a number of Wisconsin farms, but it is claimed tlus practice is not extending and that it will probably diminish. In nearly all cases the iambs are brought in to clean up the farm. In other words, they do in a period of about 100 days what the small flock is supposed to dfo in a year. The discouraging features to the practice are its speculative nature and lack of sufiicient feed to carrv the lambs to a desirable market finish. So much feed has to be retained for cows that in order to carry both propositions feeds have to be purchased, and this the average fanner is avei*se to except in case of certain concentrates. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD 02f SCHEDULE K, 575 MISSOURI. No other State in the Mississippi Valley has equaled Missouri in the growth of her sheep industry during the past 10 years, and perhaps no other State in that region equals her in real natural advantages for sheep. The great Ozark uplift, which embraces about a third of the area, is a splendid region for small flocks. The grass is good, the water abundant and wholesome, the small valleys produce good root crops, feed is cheap, flocks are healthy, and the winters are nuld. The greater part of the region north of the Missouri River is hilly or rolling, and on nearly every farm there is rough land not suitable for cultiva- tion which can be handled to advantage with sheep. Only the swamp lands in the southeastern part of the State are regarded as naturally unsuitable for flock husbandry. In 1910, 44,010 farms in Missouri were reported as keeping sheep, which is 5,997 more than report^ in 1900. The number of sheep reported in 1910 was 1,808,038, wliich is 720,825 more than enumer- ated in 1900. In 1900, 587,757 ewes were reported; in 1910, 1,012,543, an increase of 424,786. In all cases the increase is too great to Question a pronounced and healthy growth in the industry. Missouri has been a great cattle State and is yet to a certain extent. But there has been a waning in the industry because of the large expense incident to beef making. Eaising lambs is more profitable and slieep can be worked into almost any system of farm management practiced or worthy of being practiced in the State. The search for something to take the place of the business of producing and maturing young cattle of the beef type has, perhaps, been the greatest factor in the growth of the sheep industry in Missouri. Hence the conditions demanding slieep in that State seem to be more or less permanent in their character. During the last 20 years the breeding of the sheep in the State has been changed from merino to grades of the various British mutton breeds. When mutton blood was first introduced it was chiefly through the long-wool breeds, particularly in the northern part of the State. In that region there are still a number of long-wool flocks, but they are gradually being supplanted by Sliropshire, Oxfords, ana Hampshire. It is said that there are more Shropsliire rams being used than those of any other breed. Oxfords and Hampshires follow in about equal numbers. When mutton-bred rams were first intro- duced there was a great deal of changing about in blood so that the flocks became badly mixed in breeding. While this condition is stiD bad it has improved in the last ^ve years. The State is handicapped by the comparatively lai^e number of unimproved flocks. Sucli flocks are of mixed breeding or, worse stiU, wholly indefinite inbreeding, which justly wins for them the term ''scrub." Breeders of this type use grade rams not of the approved market type. The result is a crop of lambs lacking in market requirements. It may be said that tliere are two types of sheep raisers in the State, namely, the old and the new. Some old sheep raisers represent the best of the new type; very few of the new ones classify with the old. By the old type is meant the sheep- man who has failed to change his methods of management since demands have changed from wool as the primary consideration, to market lambs. It is he who fails to provide proper feed and to bear 576 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUI/E K. 577 in mind market demands. With bim slieep are s^^i^^^^^^ / ^^^^ apparently tlieir fet duty; what they do m the prodiiction oHam^ aSS wool is subordinate to this idea and usually the j^^^^^^^^ inferior product. An inspection of the St. Louis market confirms this impression as to the product sent m ^/^th^^^^yn^^^T^^ Buyers on the market state, however, that the lambs 1^1/ather betW than they look. Tliis statement may be misleachng. It im^ht be inferred that a common looking animal dresses out into a choice carcass. This is untrue. The real meaning of the statement is that tJie carcass is common, but less so than the live ammal appeared. As stated above, some old sheep raisers represent the best of the mew type. They have changed in tlieir methods as demands changed, and aided by their long experience mth sheep they produce the best and derive gratifying profits from the business. Wlien men dropped the practice of niismg beef calves and took up sheep they luUy reahzed the necessity^ meeting modern demands. These new men of the new type appreciate the value of the pure-bred sire. 1 he result is that the use of pure-bred rams is becommg more general. Thev also know that it pays to lamb their ewes early, feed the lambs well, and pass them on the market before the heavy run from the West begins. Fruits of the reahzation can nsuaUy be seen m the prime lambs reaching St. I^ouis in June and July. , j x There is a widespread tendency in the Stat« to breed western ewes. Some of the reasons for so domg are: (1) They are more uniform than the natives. (2) They are more healthy for the first two years. Most of the natives are badly mfested with internal parasites. (3) It is more convenient to get ^^f^^^f. f^^?;^ ^^ may be ordered from some commission firm with the stipulation that thev be uniform. It is almost impossible to get together a uniform lot of native ewes in Missouri. (4) The change of envuron- ment from the West to Missouri causes them to thrive better than the native picked up in the neighborhood. They bepn to thrive almost from the start on the pastures which are more luxuriant than they ever knew in their western home. They lamb m February or March. (5) The man who breeds western ewes does not retain his ewe lamDs for breeding purposes. It is more profitable to sell them and to buy in new breeding stock than to grow them to maturity. tVhen the western ewe is bred to a pure-bred mutton ram of desirable market type she produces an excellent market lamb, and, since they all lamb at about the same time it is possible to get a crop fakly uniform in weight at the time of sale. The farm man- agement 'department, University of Missouri, m cooperation with ihe U. S. Department of Agriculture, is makmg a feature of raising lambs from western ewes on a number of farms it has under con- trol The plan followed is: (1) Nothine but pure-bred mutton rama shall be used. (2) That creeps shaU ^e provided for the lambs (3) All lambs shall be docked and the males castrated. (4) AU of the lambs shall be marketed. (5) An adequat^ wmter feed, and early spring fora<^e, such as rye, shall be provided the ewes, in no instance has this practice failed to be profitable, and it is thought to be the most profitable method of giowing lambs foUowed in the State. It is contributing a great deal to the progress of lamb raising and should anything happen to cut off the supply of western breeding ewes the development of what is provmg to be a lucrative business would be seriously checked. In the plan outlined above the wool receives important consideration. An attempt is niade to secure ewes that will shear a good weight and care is taken to keep the wool free from burs and to pack it attractively. Lambs in Missouri are born in March, April, and May. It is saki that early lambing should be encouraged because the lambs can be handled and marketed more advantageously. The late-bom lamb Is likely to become infested with stomach worm and has to compete with the heavy run from the West. Early lambs are bom at a season when the owner can devote his time to them without inter- fering with spring work preparatory to planting and sowing crops. The number of lambs raised averages about 90 to every 100 ewes bred. They are marketed in the summer and the fall months. Those marketed in June weigh about 60 pounds at the market; in July and August, 60 to 70 pounds; from September to January, 70 to 90 pounds. As a general rule the lambs are gathered up by local dealers or drovers. There is a growing discontent against tms practice, which is fully demonstrated by the organization of lamb cIuds, whose chief Imrpose is to foster cooperation between owners in marketing their amos. This cooperation is planned to reach further than overcom- ing the cupidity of the local dealer by encouraging better methods in breeding, growing, and preparing the lambs for market. Selling is done both by the head and per himdredweight, the latter being the more common practice. Most of the shearing is done late in April. Chps vary in weight from 6 to lOpounds per fleece. The average for the State is about 7 poimds. Tne State does not have a good reputation for the man- ner in wliich wool is prepared for market. Much of it is not tied, and sisal twine is frequently used. The bulk of the wool grades one-fourth and three-eighths blood combing, but nearly all domestic grades are produced, and the use of western ewes causes a quantity of western wool to be marketed. In the northern part of the State some luster and demiluster wool is grown, but how much is impossible to deter- mine. The greater part of the wool is sold to local dealers, who, as a rule, are said to be disincUned to discrimiuate between wools of differ- ent quahty and to pay close up to what the wool is worth after fair commissions are counted off. It is probable that growers will organ- ize and cooperate in selling their wool direct either to the mills or to large warehouses. Practically every farm reporting sheep in ^Missouri has blue grass. It is impossible to determine what the production cost of this feed is per acre. However, it is often rented at 10 cents per month per sheep, and an animal can be kept on it for seven and eight months. The supporting capacity of an acre of blue grass is not known, and largely because few farmers keep their sheep on this pasture through the entire grazing season. They are changed off to the stubble fields, etc., and brought back occasionally to clean up the pasture, after which they are shifted again. It is possible that the grass required for a mature beef animal will support seven or eight ewes. At this rate land selling at $80 to $100 per acre would support four or five ewes; land selling at $20 to $60 would support, say, tnree ewes through the grazing season. In terms of sheep this would make the rental about 25 cents instead of 10 cents per head and month. 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2. vol 1 37 578 KBPOBT OF TAMEV BOABD OF SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTirLE K, 579 Tlie average owner of sheep in Missouri has to have a supply of harvested feeds to cover from two to three months time. Hay, clover and timothy, cowpea hay, com fodder, and other roughages are the main dependence. Some feed grain to the ewes after tlie lambs are bom. It is asserted that $2 wiU carrv a ewe 12 months and the lamb she suckles, provided the latter is sold off grass about the last of June. This will hold tme on land that is valued at $60 per acre and will produce 45 bushels of com per acre. The figure presented above would permit of feeding the ewe 60 days three-fourths to 1 pound per day, equal parts by weight of a mixture of oats, wheat, bran, and com, and from 200 to 300 pounds of hay^ valued at $8 to $10 per ton. Missouri's climate favors the production of a great deal of cheap forage. Cowpeas and rape in com make a luxuriant growth. Being well to the south, frosts usually do not come until the peas have matured. After the com is harvested the ewes may be allowed the run of the fields, where they thrive and fatten andf attain splendid condition for the winter. But Missouri has her drawbacks in the sheep business. Lack of experience with sheep keeps many from handlmg them. Others are spasmodic growers, usually stocking up when prices are high and getting discouraged and selling out when they are low. The lack of adequate fencing is much in evidence. Dogs and wolves make very destructive depredations, dogs particularly being a great hindrance to the development of the industry. For many years they have prevented its development to proper proportions in the great Ozark regions. Near the small towns all over the State owners are harrassed by the dogs attached to the negro families who fail to feed them. The stomach worm is an enemy to every sheep grower and a great discouragement to many. The cHmate of Missouri seems especially adapted to its propagation. It is responsible for the deplorable con- dition of many lambs marketed from the State. Parties in close touch with conditions beheve that this pest must be found out and controlled before the sheep business in the State can approach its possibilities. The feeding of western sheep and lambs is increasing in Missouri because it has been profitable in most instances. The farmer pur- chases one or two decks of lambs which he turns in his pastures and fields to clean them up. Rape and cowpeas are frequently sown in the corn. The cowpeas are utilized first because the leaves are lost with the first heavy frost. Then the rape is called into use. Where lambs have access to blue grass with these feeds they gain rapidly and often finish without the use of grain. It is estimated that farmers not so well provided (i. e., without cowpeas and rape), make about half the gains in their pastures, stubble, and corn fields. The usual gain on yearhngs from the time they are sold out of mar- ket until they retum is from 10 to 15 pounds; on lambs, 20 to 25 pounds. The feeding period for yearhngs is about 60 days; for lambs 90 to 125. To make a reasonable profit feeders expect a margin of $1 to $1.50 per hundredweight between cost and selling price. Sheep feeding is not so extensive in Missouri as cattle feedins:, and perhaps never wiU be. It is engaged in for the prospective profits and not for the f ertihty conserved, although the latter is acknowledged as one of the advantages in the practice. KA.N8AS. The assessors' returns in March, 1910, showed 190,802 dogs in Kansas, while there were but 175,250 sheep. These figures most emphatically emphasize the statement commonly made that Kansas is not a sheep State. This failure to keep sheep is difficult to under- stand. Good authorities estimate that there are more than 50,000,000 acres in the State, upon every one of which, on an average, a sheep could be maintained at a cost scarcely appreciable, and the acre's value would be increased rather than diminisned thereby. It appears that the State has only about one sheep to every 300 acres, in spite of the fact that Kansas is, in general, well adapted to the profitable production of mutton and wool. Unfortunately it has also to be recorded that many farmers accus- tomed to doing things in a big way regard sheep keeping as rather small business and the care of the flock too mucn bother, especially in lambing season. Undoubtedly this strikes an important keynote here on the disinclination to keep sheep. Then, too, adequate fenc- ing is lacking. Again, Kansas is not olessed with a large area of pasture. She speciahzes in com, wheat, alfalfa, and hogs. Dairying IS rapidly increasing. Cattle and sheep feeding are speculative fea- tures in her consideration. Flocks are most numerous in the eastern part of the State. According to the preliminary statement of the Thirteenth Census, 3,143 fanns in Kansas reported sheep. This is an increase over the census of 1900 of 1,048. The number of sheep reported was 272,472, which is 110,459 more than given in the report of 1900. The number of breeding ewes per farm averaged for 1910, 51 ; for 1900, 64. These figures indicate a reduction in the size of flocks and a more general keeping of sheep on the farms. It is hkely that wheat farming in the West has crowded out some of the ranch flocks during the past 10 years. Twenty-five years ago practically all the sheep in the State were merinos. There were a number of pure-bred flocks furnishing breed- ing stock to the ranchmen of the far West, but nearly all of these have disappeared. At the present time most of the farm flocks are grades of the Enghsh mutton breeds mainly built up from a foundation of range ewes bred to Shropshire sires. Twenty-five years ago sheep were kept for their wool; now lambs for the mutton market receive first considpration and the wool is a secondary revenue which the farmer counts on applying to the cost of maintaining the ewe. The lambs are born in March and April and marketed in early fall. The grower counts on raising a 100 per cent crop. The principal market IS Kansas City. The better flocks shear 8 to 9 pounds per head, and the average for the State is about 7.5 pounds. It is apparent from these figures that the wool is an important item in the revenues from the flock, and a great reduction in the price would cause a pronounced setback to sheep growing unless there should be a recompense through an appre- ciable rise in the price of market lambs. One man interviewed asserted that Kansas could not possibly grow wool for less than 15 cents per pound under present conditions, and that to make a reason- able profit the lambs should be sold for $4 per head and the fleece for $1.60. 580 BEPOBT OF TABIFT BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOET OF TABIFP BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 581 The sheep are on pasture about seven months in the year. Few estimates as to the value of pasture are obtainable. It is roughly estimated that the breeding ewe will consume 1 i bushels of com and one-fourth ton of alfalfa hay during the period she is off pasture. The tendency is to use aO the rouehage possible and a minimum of grain. Kansas has very little trouole with stomach worm. As a rule the flocks are healthy. But a serious drawback is the predatory dog and coyote. There is no adequate dog law and canine ravages are altogether too frequent. A great many sheep and lambs are fed. The day of the speculative feeder who buys both his feeds and feedere and takes no account of the manure produced is passing, but he is still in evidence. His is an * * in-and-out ' ' business. Whether he operates or not depends upon prices for feeds and sheep and lambs. To an extent he helps to keep prices uniform because he is apt to buy when values decHne, and were the supply of western feeding sheep cut off, Kansas would have to market no inconsiderable quantity of her crops through other chan- nels. These feeders us© no shelter and hence cUpping before market- ing is not practiced. More sheep and lambs are being fed by farmers who allow them to run on the fields until the feed is eaten out. Those experienced in feeding can produce cheaper gains by this method than where all the feeds are purchased, and mdications* point toward a general adoption of the plan. NEBRASKA. The prcentage of farms in Nebraska, including sheep in their annual mventory, is small. Yet the number of farm flocks is on the increase, as shown by the Thirteenth Census, reporting 3,043 as com- pared to 2,764 in 1900. In spite of the increase of 10 per cent in the number of farms reporting sheep, the actual sheep population de- creased from 511,273 in 1900 to 293,496 in 1910, or a falling off of 42 per cent. WhUe there has been a decrease in all classes of sheep it is most pronounced in the lamb division, w^iere a falling off of 72 per cent is registered. In the ewe class the decrease has been 42 per cent. The falling off of the total number of sheep and lambs may be ao counted for by the difference in the time of year the reports were taken, since flocks reporting April 1 can not include the spring lamb crop. Nevertheless with a decrease of 42 per cent in the ewe class the lamb crop is actually much smaller than m 1900, and a considerable portion of tiie 72 per cent decrease must be accounted for in this way. If the above figures mean anytliing they can certainly be interpreted to show the change that has come over the sheep industry of Neoraska. It is the day of the small flock owner. His numbers are on the increase. This^lass of sheepmen has probably grown more than the 10 per cent increase in number of farms reportmg sheep w^ould indicate. Not only the breeding but the feeding is now beconaing the business of the small farmer. Feeds have advanced in price, thereby narrowing the profits of the large operator. The farmer finds in the sheep a market for his grain and hay. Tliis is important, not only from the marketing standpoint, but the fertility nroblem is becoming greater every year and the manurial value or farm crops is receivmg con- sideration. The development of the State's agriculture in the corn-growing area has been chiefly along lines of grain farming and cattle feeding. Hogs are kept in small inclosures and have not access to the whole farm. ^ Sheep-tight fences were not needed in the above plan and this condition has been a factor to retard the development of the sheep industry of the State. On the contrary, profits from cattle feeding have become somewhat uncertain during the past few years and a few farmers have taken up sheep as a method of marketing farm crops. It is also not an uncommon practice to buy feeder lambs and sheep to be turned into the cornfield to harvest the crop and return the fer- tility. In fact, one feeder says that by this method of utilizing the corn crop the farmers can realize a good profit above the market price of corn and the loss should be small. He has had 4,000 lambs m the com at one time, with heaviest loss 3 per cent. The one item of eliminating labor at harvest time is important. Thus far we have spoken of sheep numerically and the figures cited give a more or less definite idea of changing conditions, but in discussing the changes in quality the only availabfe data are the opin- ions of those who have been associated with the business for a number of years. It can not be said that the quality of Nebraska grown sheep (natives) has improved greatly, although some improvement is noted. This is accounted for by slightly increased use of pure-bred rams. It is the belief of the South Omaha commission men that half the ewes going to Nebraska farmers are bred to rams purchased at the stock yards. There is at this time an entirely too great disregard of the advantages of using good, pure-bred rams; too many farmers want cheap rams, costing from $6 to $10 each. This is responsible for the slight improvement in quality of the native ram. Of the pure-bred rams being used in Nebraska the English mutton breeds rurnish the major portion. Nebraska farmers are regular buyers of western sheep and lambs on the Omaha market and to-day do the bulk of the sheep feeding in the State. The western flocks furnish practically all of the feeding and breeding sheep for Nebraska. Feeders prefer to buy western lambs as feeders because they are healthier, and one large feeder said they are sure to make better gains than the native lamb. An- other great advantage the eastern feeder has in buying western lambs is the opportunity of selecting uniform lots in large numbers. The trade in western breeding ewes has been increasing for the past few years, but the movement was somewhat %hter in 1911 than in 1910. Sheep products have been low the past year and farmers have temporarily lost confidence in the market. Farmers say the ewes can be purchased on the market much cheaper than from the western ranchers direct. The ranchmen ask high prices for desirable ewes when the eastern farmer goes to the ranch for them. Desirable ewes of good ages and quality that are good breeders are ordinarily hard to procure on the market. It is a general practice to sell ewe lambs and replenish the flock from the market. This is cheaper than growing the home-bred ewe lamb to a breeding age. The farmer wants young ewes with fairly dense fleece; this is not only protection to the sheep but the increased wool clip is of consideration. The native ewe of Nebraska is an unimportant factor. She is not inferior to the western ewe when healthy, but when they come to the market they are as a rule worn out or diseased. The proximity 682 BBPOKT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. of the Nebraska com belt farms to the range, or of the Omaha market to the range, provides a splendid place to purchase large flocks of western ewes. The supply of natives is so limited that the bulk of breeding ewes must be drawn from the western flocks. The wool clip of the various flocks varies somewhat, vet it is safe to say the average fleece weighs between 7 and 8 pounds. The fleeces are tied separately and are generally marketed in the rough. The erade is not generally known bv the farmer, but it is thought to grade medium fine It is Estimated that from 30 to 40 per cent of the net income from the breeding operation is derived from the sale of wool. From the data obtained the commonly estimated maintenance of the breeding ewe amounts to from $4 to $4.25 annually, and to grow the lamb to marketable age, it is claimed, costs something like $2 to $2.25. This cost is said to obtain when ewe and lamb are on pasture the entire summer without grain. The ewes are fed hay, generally alfalfa, during the entire winter, but the practice of feed- mg grain is not universal: some feed 1 J pounds per head daily, while others allow grain only a few weeks before lambing. Corn and alfafa are the two generally accepted sheep feeds in the State. Com is worth from 30 to 50 cents per Dushel, while alfalfa fluctuates from $5 to $10 per ton. Where lambs are allowed the run of a cornfield (unharvested) the feed and labor accounts are reduced. 1 1 is the general practice to market lambs direc t . Lambs are dropped during February, March, and April and marketed during December, January, and February. They attain about 75 pounds weight by market time. Feeder lambs are ordinarily fed about 80 to 120 days on a ration of com and alfalfa. Some feeders use 60 days to get on full grain feed, starting at one-fourth pound, which is gradually increased to If pounds, while other feeders reach full feed in 20 days. Some feeders allow 2 pounds, while others allow 4 pounds of alfalfa per lamb per day. Lambs weigh about 65 pounds when purchased and gain from 20 to 25 pounds in a 90-day feeding period. Feeder sheep are fed in the same manner and receive from 2 to 2 J pounds grain and 2i pounds to 5 pounds of hay per head per day. They should gain about 18 pounds during a 90-day period. The cost of producing the general field crops in Nebraska has been compiled by Prof. C. W. Pugsley in Bulletm 122 of the Nebraska experiment station as follows: Cost of prod ucinf. Com bushels. Wheat ■ do. . . Oats do. . . Wild hav tons. Clover hav do. . . Alfalfa do- . . Average yield. 39.3 22.2 35.0 1.25 2-04 3.33 29.6 cents per bushel. 54.9 cents per bushel. 32.5 cents per busbeL $5.37 per ton. $4.18 per ton. $3.13 per ton. If the farmer can find a market in sheep and lamba for crops pro- duced on his farm, the feeding of such crops at home will surely result in a constructive system of farming. For pastures in the central and western parts of the State the "sand hiUs" are depended upon during summer, and after stalk fields are cleaned the sheep are Kept in diy lots the remainder of winter. It REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 583 <>» i- does not appear to be customary to pasture any of the more valuable land of the State with sheep, for, as one breeder said, '^Wild grass yields only about 1 ton per acre, while alfalfa ^rields 4 tons, and for this reason the wild pastures are fast disappearing." Pastures on the sand hills are valued at 50 cents per acre for the OTazing season. These lands are valued at from $10 to $25 per acre. In ascertaining value of pasture the prevailing rental price was about all that could be determined, and that was often uncertain. Their carrying power is never over 2 sheep per acre, and more often 1 sheep per acre. Well- informed men say it is necessary to raise forage crops to successfully grow native sheep. MINNESOTA. The sheep producers of this State have different opinions as to the future of the industry. The Thirteenth Census shows 24,564 farms reporting sheep, while in 1900, 28,056 farms reported. This is a decrease of 12 per cent. On the other hand, the total number of sheep have increased from 589,878 in 1900 to 637,551 in 1910, or 8 per cent. There has been an increase of 26 per cent in the ewe class and 17 per cent in the ram and wether class, while the lamb class has fallen off 24 per cent. This may be explained by the change in dates of reporting from June 1 in 1900 to April 1 in 1910. The sheep that are shown have gained in numbers by 25 per cent. The feeding business is now being done more by the farmer than was the case a few years ago, when speculative operators fed thousands of sheep and lambs upon screenings. The disappearance of the big feedmg plants is no doubt partly responsible for the dropping off of the lamb population. It would seem also that ewe flocks are growing larger; 12 per cent decrease in the number of farms reporting and 26 per cent increase in the number of ewes will surely justify this con- elusion. With the long winters the cost of production must neces- sarily include considerable dry-lot feeding, and this is the expensive part of the keep. The narrow margin between the producing and the selling price has caused a falling off of the flocks, and the dairy cow is coming to supplant them. The dog and stomach worm should not be omitted in this connection, for both are recognized as potent enemies of the sheepmen. There is a consensus of opinion that quality has been improved during the past few years. This is attributed to the better breeding classes, both ewes and rams. The use of pure-bred rams is growing, but the grade rams of the mutton breeds, Shropshire predominating, sire most of the lambs in Minnesota. The movement of ''western" ewes into the State is increasing. Some claim them to be hardier and more rugged than the native. As a matter of fact, the natives have seen service and are often undesirable breeders when they reach market. The western ewe is not infected with stomach worms and will respond to the change much better than the inferior natives that are available. The western ewes are cheaper and many farmers purchase them on this account. The ''native" ewe in Minnesota is a much more important factor than in Nebraska. The native is a mixture of breeds, Cotswolds. Shropshires, and a few merinos (all grades), and the sheep are classed 584 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI/E K. 585 as a medium wool. To-day the natives are practically all grade ShropsMres. The presence of a considerable number of native flocks does not permit of the same changing ownerships of flocks as can be the case in a State hke Nebraska, where the ewe flocks are purchased at the market and kept out onlv a few years. And again, m Minne- sota on farms where sheep are kept the relative percentage of sheep to the other farm animals is much greater than elsewhere. Sheep are on many farms the main item of hve stock. Some say that sheep do not make as much work as cattle and one gets quicker returns. One almost universal reason for sheep ownership is to maintain soil fertihty. The average wool clip is hard to determine, but it is between 6 and 8 pounds. The native fleeces grade about one-half to three-fourths blood combing, while some farmers report a grade of medium combing. The officers of the Minnesota Woolgrowers' Association say that Minnesota wool has proved their claim for it of being one of the best domestic wools produced, yet they receive regularly a very low price on their cHp. The percentage of net income from the flock derived from wool is hard to learn, but it will assume a good figure, since cost of keep of the lamb is a pretty big item with the Minnesota farmer. Reasons for farmers going out of the sheep business are various. Some say that sheep and wool are to-day selUng 40 per cent below the cost of production; that ** wool should not be sold for less than 22 cents per pound to make it pay to raise sheep. Lambs should not be sold for less than $5 per hundredweight to make them pay," etc. The wool is sold in the rough, each fleece being tied separately and sacked. The Mnnesota Woolgrowers' Association is manufacturing its own wool and its members have received more by a few cents than the local market was offering tliis year. They are at present manufacturing blankets and selling them direct to the consumer. Items of expense entering into the keep of a flock, as estimated by certain farmers, are shown in two yearly statements herewith. As said before, the grazing season is short comparatively and winter feeding is the expensive part of yearly keep. For tliis reason the cost of keepmg sheep per head per year vanes greatly, dependmg upon the method of winter management. Summarizing these reporte we have : Yetn. 1909 1»10 Average Num- ber of head. 209 240 449 Value per head. Cost of feed per head. Cost of labor per head. i4.22 4.42 S2.28 2.84 2.m 11.00 .92 .96 Total cost keep per head. 13.28 3.78 3.M Another farmer names $3 a^ cost of yearly keep for feed and pasture and furnishes a very carefully itemized labor sheet showing hours required each month to perform labor necessary in attending to flocks of 77 head. Four hundred and eighty-eight and one-half hours were required, which, at 20 cents, amounts to $97.70. To this is added 10 cents per head for shearing, making a total of $105.90, or $1.38 average cost of labor per year. Prof. Thomas Cooper of the Minnesota Agricultural College reports the cost of keep and income from 9 Minnesota flocks as follows: Flocks. Number head in flocks. Cost of keep per Income per head. 81 53 113 32 32 55 30 64 25 $5.06 3.45 4.11 4.75 3.83 4.00 4.42 3.30 4.00 $3.55 5.34 4.14 7.42 10.30 3.85 5.14 2.05 3.98 Total 475 1,964.11 4.13 2,061.44 Average 4.38 It is impossible to get estimates as to the cost of growing lambs to a marketable age, but the general method of handling them is to leave ewes and lambs on grass during the summer, and in the fall they are fed a ration of grain and clover nay. They are allowed the run of the farm, and actual cost would have to be approximated at best. The lambs are bom in March and April and are marketed the latter part of summer and fall. Farmers report lamb crops yielding from 100 to 110 per cent. During the grazing season, which is of about six months' duration, from May 1 to November 1, the ewes are kept on grass without grain. During winter some ewes are fed grain regularly, while others get grain only at lambing time. One flock owner feeds ewes no grain even at lambing time. Clover hay, mixed hay, corn stover, com fodder, wheat straw, and oat straw are the feeds used for roughages. It must be apparent that a daily grain ration and clover or mixed hay will run the cost of winter keep far above a flock where no grain is fed, wet hay and com stover constituting the winter ration. The grazing season can be extended into December or until snow flies by the use of rape. Forage crops are often very much needed during the early fall to supplement the permanent pastures. The permanent pastures in some sections of the State are meadow lands and clover and timothy stubble, in which blue grass comes after a couple of years. In other sections the native pastures are blue grass or blue grass and redtop. The clover and timothy meadows after being pastured about two years enter regularly in the rota- tion. This practice of plowing the pasture land is advantageous to the sheep mdustry by reducing parasitism, and to the general farm- ing system by putting into use the stored fertiUty . In northern Min- nesota are thousands of acres of wild land that could be grazed very profitably with sheep. One farmer in that section reports a small flock on his farm, from 25 to 300 ewes, fed notliing in winter but wild hay. The sheep were on grass whenever it was not covered with snow. He advises the farmer to keep only a small flock to eat up waste about the farm. The cost of producing farm crops ordinarily fed to sheep is quoted from Prof. Thomas P. Cooper of the Minnesota College of Agriculture, June 17, 1910, before the Select Committee to Investigate Wages and 586 EBPOBT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 587 I Prices of Commodities, but it is estimated that there has been an increase of about 20 per cent in the cost of production during the past six years. The figures here given represent cost for year 1908-9, fathered at three different places in the State. The items on wliich gures are based are: Seed, twine, labor (man and horse), macliinery, marketing, interest, and miscellaneous items. Cost of production per acre: Wheat, $11.07; oats, $10.56; barley, $9.96 ; tame hay, $8; com, $13.14. The yields per acre are not given. TENNESSEE. The sheep industry m Tennessee must be viewed differently from that of the States in the northern part of the com belt. It is pri- marily a spring lamb producing busmess and the flocks are as a rule smaD. It IS a common rule that where general farming is practiced one ewe to every three acres is stocking very heavSy. Indeed, some farms may carry twice tins many for a season or so, but the majority will be stocked lighter than the above rule. The industry, it appears, is centrahzing in the central basin or the blue-grass section of the State. This territory embraces about a dozen counties lying around Williams and Maury. According to the Thirteenth Census there were reported 29,978 farms having sheep in 1910, against 37,905 farms with sheep in 1900. Before comparing further reports it becomes necessary to explain a method of management frequently practiced. In the early spnng, say March 25 to April 10, the entire flock of ewes and lambs will be sold to the drover, who may ship out the fat ewes immediately and rent pasturage for the ewes with lamb. In this case statistics gathered about April 1, as was done in 1910, may find several flocks assembled under one ownership. Considering the total number of sheep reported, there was an increase of 60 per cent in 1910, 496,011 being reported m 1900 and 794,063 in 1910. The ewe division records an mcrease of 67 per cent, and there were 77 per cent more lambs in 1910 than in 1900. It must not be understood from this that the farmer's flock has increased in size as these figures would indicate. Market time comes in May, when probably 65 per cent or more of the lambs are shipped out of the State. The 1900 census did not record these lambs, while the 1910 report included them. Many ewes are sold in May with the lambs, and this explains in part the difference in this class. The change of dates in taking the census report does not explain away the increase of ewes and lambs in 1910, for, as a matter of fact, there are actually more ewes bred in Tennessee to-day than were bred ten years ago. The cause for the increased production is explained by the growing demand for spring lambs and the profit offered on account of good prices for both wool and lambs during the past few years. As the sentiment for sheep increased the sentiment against the dog increased (every sheep owner is the enemy of a worthless dog), thereby greatly reducing the chance of loss from this source. It is estimated that a decrease of about 15 per cent in the number of people keeping ewes occurred this year (1911), on account of the scare produced by the Eresence of scab in the State. This decline will only be temporary, owever, if the market remains good during the next few years. ■'"■( It is not true that the highest-priced ewe wHl always make the largest returns on the investment, but the farmers are giving much more attention to the selection of their ewes and rams than they did a few years ago. The spring lambs must be fat and possess quahty. Superior motherhood is essential to get the former, while the latter must be found in both the ewe and ram. Two-thirds of the flock owners have native ewes and the others are from the West. Here it must be said that the term ''western ewes'* has no two meanings. Some farmers refer to the merino sheep from the ranges as a western, while others refer to the native of the western part of the corn belt. The latter is a rather large sheep with a black race. Black faces are very much sought after. In some sections as many as one-third of the ewes are westerns. The native ewe is said to have originated from the Cotswold, merino, and the Down breeds, but the merino fleece markings have disappeared. These ewes are splendid mothers and produce an early lamo. The rams used in Tennessee have improved in the last few years. Rams of the English mutton breeds are used almost exclusively, with the Southdown receiving great favor. Prices for rams rule about $12.50 to $15, yet many $25 rams are used. The lambs are dropped during January, February, and up into March, and marketed from May 20 to June 20. From 90 to 100 per cent is considered a fair yield, while many careful farmers exceed 100 Eer cent. Not over 10 per cent of farmers feed grain to lambs during ad weather of early spring. The Goodletts^e Lamb and Wool Club tried feeding grain to lambs before marketing, with negative results. Generally speaking, the Tennessee spring lamb is a grass product. The average wool cUp of the native ewe is about 4J to 5 pounds. The western ewe shears about 6 to 7 pounds, and the improved native — that is, the produce of the white-faced ewe and a ''Down" ram — will shear between 5 and 6 pounds. The wool is sent to the Louisville market, grading according to market quotations, "clear unwashed." Much of it falls into three-eighths combing and three-eighths clothing grades. The farmer expects the fleece to pay for annual keep or the ewe. The Goodlettsville Club picks by hand the burs from its wool. They generally sell to the blanket mill at Springfield, Tenn. Fleeces are tied separately, sacked, and marketed in the rough. The annual cost of keep is very hard to learn, since many flocks never get a mouthful of grain or hay during the winter and eat grass tnat would otherwise go to waste. Blue grass and orchard grass may be counted on for steady pasture for at least eight months, and where not eaten down close before fall will keep the flock during winter. The winter cereals are depended upon to supply green feed in winter and early spring. To determine cost of keep, pasture may be rented in summer for the ewe at 10 cents per montn, and for about four months in spring for the ewe and lamb at 20 to 30 cents, averaging 25 cents per month. It is estimated that this makes a total cost of keep for feed amount to $1.80 per head per year. The keep of the lamb is included in this. There is no attempt made to feed the late lambs grain. These lambs are seldom fat when sent to market in July or August. No western lambs are brought into the State for feeding. The carrying power of the permanent pasture varies, but is about 1 J to 4 sneep I m 588 KEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUUB K. I I per acre for the grazing season. The permanent pastures are being extended on account of unsatisfactory labor conditions. The income from a flock is figured bv local owners somewhat as foUows: 70 pounds lamb, at 6| cente (net) $4. 55 5 pounds wool, at 20 cents (net) 1. 00 5. 55 Estimated cost of feed 1. 80 Interest on ewe ($5) and interest on ram (|25), at 6 per cent 35 I^bor, salt, etc. (estimated) 50 Loss, all hazards, 10 per cent 50 Total cost keep 3. 15 Profit 2.40 The above statement for the average equipment and method of management perhaps approximates the results obtained when prices rule as they have for the last four or five years. Wool sold for less than 20 cents in 1911, but for a few years previous it sold for over 25 cents. The pasture land used by sheep varies in price in different localities, but sheep are run on lands that are changing hands at $100 and more an acre. KENTtrCKY. The area of Kentucky where sheep are found on a considerable percentage of the farms is. much larger than in Tennessee. Not only were there about twice as many sheep in Kentucky in 1910, but 52 per cent more farms were reported with sheep on them. In 1910 there were 45,707 farms reporting sheep, as against 50,835 in 1900. The presence of scab in the State is probably responsible for this decrease of 10 per cent. To-day the State is quarantined, and animals can not be shipped from the State without dipping, except for immediate slaughter. This has to a degree hurt the pure-bred indus- trv, and the indifferent farmer growing spring lambs lound the buyers (tne drovers) unwilling to bid strong for his sheep when they had to assume the risk of having a bunch of lambs held up at the yards. Dipping is of course compulsory and is under the oirection of the State and Federal inspectors. Naturally any trouble of this kind would check temporarily the growth of tne sheep industry. The Thirteenth Census records 1 ,360,004 sheep of all kinds, which is an increase of 4 per cent over the Twelfth Census report. In 1910 there were 719,591 ewes, as compared to 647,838 in 1 900, or an increase of only 1 1 per cent. Practically no change is reported (3 per cent gain) m the lamb division. While Kentuckj^ is a spring-lamb pro- ducing State, the lambs are not marketed until midsummer or later. July and August are the principal market months. The lambs are dropped in January and Februaiy. Thus we have no marked changes in number of ewes and lambs on account of reporting the flocks on April lor June 1. Judging from the Thirteenth Census, the Louisville commission men are not warranted in reporting an increased volume of business in spring lambs. Kentucky is not tne only contributor to the Louis- BEPOBTLOF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 589 ville market, for the largest portion of shipments originating in Tennes- see "are consigned there. Yet this movement of Kentucky lambs may have changed in favor of the local yards. The southern part of Indi- ana may have undergone an extension in spring-lamb production and increased its consignments to Louisville. The demand for spring lambs is increasing, and aside from tempo- rary shocks, caused oy outbreaks of infectious diseases, it seems safe to predict steady growth in production. Not that farmers already engaged will increase materially their flocks, but a larger percentage of farms to-day have on them no sheep. Even with the profit derived in the State from sheep, many are afraid to risk a flock against dogs and stomach worms. The former is regarded as the greatest enemy of the sheepmen, while the latter is recognized by the most progressive as an ever-present tax upon the health of the flock. The permanent blue-grass pastures tnat obtain in some localities accentuates the trouble from stomach worms, and it is the custom in many localities to finish lambs on timothy and clover pasture. It is the general opinion that lambs will not fatten on blue grass in the summer, during July and August. One feeder said cattle will fatten on blue grass, but lambs mil not. He states further that late lambs can not be fed satisfactorily, since they ''get scours and die." Blue grass enters the fields after they have lain out a couple of years. It must not be inferred from this that blue grass is a better breeding ground for stomach parasites than other grasses, for all old pastures become infested, but since the blue grass does not grow so rank as the other grasses, or even clover, and the sheep eat it close to the ground, the chance of infection is probably a Kttle greater. The quality of lambs produced in Kentucky has improved, due to better ewes and rams being used. Farmers are also giving more attention to their flocks since sheep have been very profitable for the past few years. The secretary of the Kentucky Sheep Breeders* Association says that 40 per cent of farmers are using pure-bred rams of the Hampshire, Southdown, and Shropshire breeds, ranking in importance m the order named. A Shelbyyille dealer, who handles several thousand lambs annually and consigns most of them direct to the New England Dressed Beef Co., says that a majority of their clientele use pure-bred rams and that the Southdowns are liked best but Hampshire and Shropshire are used to a small extent. The western ewe (black face) is used very largely. It is said that in Shelby County 85 per cent of flocks are western ewes. One flock of 350 ewes is composed of one-half western and one-half native ewes. They prefer the former on account of more size and heavier shearing. The western ewe comes from the Chicago market and natives are " best sheep coming from Tennessee." There are no western feeder sheep or lambs sent to the State. The Kentucky wool as graded by a L'Ouisville dealer was as follows : One-fourth combing, 35 per cent; three-eighths combing, 15 per cent; one-fourth baby combing, 30 per cent; three-eighths clothing, 15 per cent; braid, 5 per cent. In 1911 three-eighths combing was 20 to 25 per cent, and three- eighths clothing was 20 per cent of clip; the latter caused by the mtroduction of the western ewe. They say the average clip of Ken- tucky is 5 pounds and scours 35 to 38 per cent. The same authority I 590 KEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUI^ K. pounStr ntt'iv? from western ewjk 6.5 pounds as against 4 to 5 pounds for native. The wool is sold to local buyers an? goes at one i;fM« t^'f** of keeping the ewe and lamb in Kentucky is renorted a t^tendTI tl? ^*"' Tr?r^- 7^« l^'^bs are marLted i?om one to two and a half months later and a few more farmers fpp^ o.rI;„ „? fed t^he^^Lr^Y'" t'^Ji^ *^" ^t^'- ''^dTpri.S^Tut no K is fed to the ewe or lamb after grass ia plentifulin rorinp P«ftr,Jl„^ "P^timatLTv^'f "'T in Kentucky thin in Tenne^eT^" ^''*"''«'' to^wT ^ ^"'"" '*'''"' ^°^"^ ''^ ^-^"-^ «°«t of kbep and income I Cost of keep. Income. Lamb. S3. 00 2.55 3.fiO (?) 15.00 5.60 4.90 416 Wool TotaL SI. 25 1.40 .95 .06 S6.25 7.00 6.85 6.10 U27r^ j2e" JuTy^inl a™ *\\°*'^."*1.P- T^^^ ^or ewe pasture in lost inkaSs.'^^^uA.Se oS ^eZtoL™ ;rw^ Yv^£et laid 't^ T*? p? ""i^ peVrn?r*&raS Writhe seCon ^ ^"*'*"**^ ^"""^ *'^^ *° ^^^^ «teep pe? thB.roughage for winS^r tome feed ete's ^tee'l'a" k'Tx P'°^'!^" grain and ewe with two lambs if poS'S'hdly ""We^St one-nalf com, one-auartpr hftrlAxr ^r^A ^«« « "«ixj^. me gram is iTt^ 4^i:teS" '""^^'^^' "^ -^"'^ *^«^ g^* a'^ield ofTrTm PART II. RAW W00LS.-ADDE1VDA. NOTES ON SHEEP RANCHING IN THE WESTERN UNITED STATES. 591 BLANK PAGEfS^ I ARIZONA WOOL AWAITING SHIPMENT AT RAILROAD. m A "FLEET" OF CAMP WAGONS LAID UP FOR THE SUMMER IN IDAHO. SHEEP Oir THE WESTEEW EAWGES. The sheep ranges of the West naturaUy fall into three fairly well- defined geographical groups. First the southwestern ranges of Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado. Second, the California ranges. Third, the northwestern ranges of Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Nevada, Washington, and Oregon. The field work was begun in southwestern Texas, where most of the sheep ranges of the State are located, but since it proved difficult to obtain detailed statistics of costs, and since, when the work was extended to New Mexico, it was found that such statistics were more easily procurable there, and that the conditions of the flock industry are practically identical in the two States, it was deemed unnecessary to make a detailed study of costs in Texas. Labor. — In Texas, New Mexico, and Colorado the laborers needed to care for the flocks — sheep herders, camp tenders, shearers, and extra laborers — can be procured at very reasonable rates. The supply is drawn almost wholly from the Mexican people, who are natural sheep herders, livmg very close to the ranges. In California the laborers are Americans, Mexicans, and Basc^ues. Here we find the labor not so plentiful, the competition for it greater, and therefore the average cost higher. In the Northwestern States American labor predominates, but in some cases Basques are employed. Here, owing to the great growth of the business and the demand for labor in the mines and elsewhere, it is no unusual thing to find sheep herders drawing as high as $60 per month, while the average for the region is much higher than in the Southwest, the wages of foremen averaging from $10 to $25 per month higher. The number of men employed per thousand sheep is much higher in the Southwest than m the Northwest. On one of the largest sheep ranches of New Mexico, for example, one man per 513 head of grown sheep is employed the year around. On the same ranch in lambing time an average of eight men to each thousand ewes is employed for approximately six weeks. On one of the largest sheep ranches in Idaho, on the other hand, two men, one herder and one camp tender, are employed per each 3,000 dry ewes and 1,500 ewes with their lambs — an average of one man to 1,500 head — and during lambing three men are eniployed per 1,000 ewes. The average of a large number of cases in New Mexico shows one man for 741 slieep the year round, while in Idaho the aver- age is one man for 1,223 sheep, exclusive of the extra help in lamb- ing and shearing. A study of the conditions which make this great difference between the two sections in the number of men employed shows that in the Northwest the ranges are more open and the sheep easier handled, and that the water facilities on the northern ranges 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1- -38 593 INTENTIONAL SECOND EXPOSURE I ARIZONA WOOL AWAITING SHIPMENT AT RAILROAD. A •FLEET" OF CAMP WAGONS LAID UP FOR THE SUMMER IN IDAHO. SHEEP ON THE WESTERIT RANGES. The sheep ranges of the West naturally fall into three fairly well- defined geographical groups. First the southwestern ranges of Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado. Second, the California ranges. Third, the northwestern ranges of Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Nevada, Washington, and Oregon. The field work was begun in southwestern Texas, where most of the sheep ranges of the State are located, but since it proved difficult to obtain detailed statistics of costs, and since, when the work was extended to New Mexico, it was found that such statistics were more easily procurable there, and that the conditions of the flock industry are practically identical in the two States, it was deemed unnecessary to make a detailed study of costs in Texas. Labor. — In Texas, New Mexico, and Colorado the laborers needed to care for the flocks — sheep herders, camp tenders, shearers, and extra laborers — can be procured at very reasonable rates. The supply is drawn almost wholly from the Mexican people, who are natural sheep herders, living very close to the ranges. In California the laborers are Americans, Mexicans, and Bascjues. Here we find the labor not so plentiful, the competition for it greater, and therefore the average cost higher. In the Northwestern States Ajnerican labor predominates, but in some cases Basques are employed. Here, owing to the great growth of the business and the demand for labor in the mines and elsewhere, it is no unusual thing to find sheep herders drawing as high as S60 per month, while the average for the region is much higher than in the Southwest, the wages of foremen averaging from $10 to $25 per month higher. The number of men employed per thousand sheep is much higher in the Southwest than in the Northwest. On one of the largest sheep ranches of New Mexico, for example, one man per 513 head of grown sheep is employed the year around. On the same ranch in lambing time an average of eight men to each thousand ewes is employed for approximately six weeks. On one of the largest sheep ranches in Idaho, on the other hand, two men, one herder and one camp tender, are employed per each 3,000 dry ewes and 1,500 ewes with their lambs — an average of one man to 1,500 head — and during lambing three men are employed per 1 ,000 ewes. The average of a large number of cases in New Mexico shows one man for 741 sheep the year round, while in Idaho the aver- age is one man for 1,223 sheep, exclusive of the extra help in lamb- ing and shearing. A study of the conditions which make this great difference between the two sections in the number of men employed shows that in the Northwest the ranges are more open and the sheep easier handled, and that the water facilities on the northern ranges 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1- -58 593 I 594 BEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDtJIiE K. are greatly superior to tlios© on the ranges of the Southwest. This ia noticed more at lambing time than at any other season, and as water- ing places are scarce and the volume of water often small on most of the southern ranges^ the owners are forced to have the ewes handled in smaller bands. However, there is a greater difference in the num- ber employed than in the total cost, for the southern owner can employ two men to the northern owner's one and their labor costs may still be about equal, owing to the lower wages paid. Increased cost of lahor.— On an average for the West this increase in the monthly wages in the last decade has apparently been from S5 to SI 0. In New Mexico 1 5 years ago sheep herders could readily be liired at $15 per month and, according to almost every employer, were much more reliable and dependable than at present. Now the lowest rate is $20. In California wages for sheep herders have risen steadily, unto many of the owners who paid $25 as the maximum in those days are now paying $40. There has probably been a siinilar advance in all the other States, accompanied by a lowering of efficiency. To this increase in the wages paid may well be added the increased cost incurred in obtaining tiie men for the work. Formerly plenty of reliable labor was to be had close to the sheep ranges, but under present conditions, when extra help is needed on a sheep ranch, the owner must generally go to town to obtain it, and the expense accounts of almost every sheep owner who employs 'many laborers show a very considerable sum paid out annually for their traveling expenses. With the increase in wages has come a decided increase in the number of men employed. When there was plenty of room on the range and no danger of "mix-ups" or trespassing, one man could easily handle many more sheep than at present. As the ranges became more crowded it was necessarv either to cut the bands down in numbers or increase the number of men with each band. Many ranges are to-day occupied by the sheepmen which they formerly would not use under any circumstances because of the number of men needed to keep the sheep together and prevent losses from cuts, etc. Increased shearing costs. — ^WhOe the increased use of machinery for sheep shearing has reduced the number of sheep shorn by hand, large numbers of sheep are still sheared by this method. Invariably sheep owners doing handwork report an increase in cost of from 1 to 1* cents per head over the prices prevaUing 10 years or so ago. It is difFicult to make comparisons between machine shearing and hand shearing. Wliere sheep are sheared by machinery the work is done imder contract and the price usually uicludes the feeding of the men, the tying and sacking of the fleeces, and the furnishing of sacks. In hand shearing the owner pays the men, feeds them, and furnishes men to tie the fleeces and sacks. The greater capacity of the macliine plants makes it possible to handle large numbers of sheep each day, and it is not unusual for an owner to turn his flock over to the shearers at daylight and receive them back at sunset shorn and ready to go to the range. With hand shearing such a band would be held about the shearing pens for several days on short feed and water, with a resultant loss of flesh and value. Provisions. — In the cost of provisions there is a great difference be- tween various owners, but the average cost of supplying herders and camp tenders in the Southwest is almost 60 per cent less than in the REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHBBFLE K. 595 i I Northwest. This includes sheep eaten — about 2 per man per month. This great difference is not so much due to an increased cost of pro- visions as to the fact that, owing to the higher standard of living of the class of men employed, a higher grade of provisions is furnished. The bills for provisions for some of the sheep camps in the Northwest show many kinds of canned goods, especially high-grade fruits, and, in almost every camp, canned milk, bacon, butter, and eggs whenever they are obtainable, etc., articles of food which are almost unknown in the majority of sheep camps in the Southwest. On some of the more conservative ranches the owners provide goats in the flocks to be eaten instead of the sheep. This is done more in the Southwest than elsewhere, although some of the California owners follow this plan regularly. The cost of provisions in the separate States is given in Table XI, which shows the average cost per man per month for provisions under normal conditions for the year under consideration. Grazing lands. — One of the most interesting points in the study of sheep raising in the West is that of grazing lands. A decade ago few sheep owners felt it necessary either to lease or to own the ranges they occupied. . As the country settled up and the watering places began to be fenced by the incoming settlers, many sheep owners secured scattered holdings, which were so laid out as to cover the water on a certain part of a range, and thus ^ve control of the adjacent lands. Then the large landholders, especially the land-grant railroads, began to urge the leasing or purchase of their lands upon the more progressive sheepmen. Most of these lands were purely grazing areas, for the greater part unfitted for agriculture as carried on at that time, and were offered to the sheepmen at very reasonable prices. Taking the West as a whole, the desert ranges were leased at a rate per section that ran from IJ to 2J cents per acre. The selling price for these same lands was between $1 and $1.50 per acre, with verv favorable terms, generally on 10 yearly payments, with low interest. In the Southwest the sheepmen contented themselves, as a general thing, with leasing small bodies of such land, so located as to give them control of a large area of Government range in its vicinity. To-day, however, many of them own large tracts of land. But in the Northwest the sheepmen in some instances organized themselves into corporations that either leased or bought from the railroads large bodies of desert and semidesert range and then subdivided it between themselves. These purchases and leases were, as a general thing, confined to winter ranges^ although some of the sheep owners, especially those in Utah, feeling that their winter range was so vast as to be sufficient for all future needs, bought only mountain ranges for summer grazing. In addition to their owned lands, a large number of the sheep owners have leased lands from the various States, from private own- ers, and from the large Indian reservations throughout the West. The private owners are for the most part the western land-grant railroads and the large Spanish land-grant companies in the South- west. Some small areas are also leased from the Keclamation Service. In the State of Idaho all State land classed as grazing land is held at a minimum price of 7J cents per acre, and very little of it is un- 596 BEPOET OF TABOT BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 597 leased at the present time. These ranges have a general carrying capacity of not to exceed one sheep to each 4 acres and often less than that. In Utah 187,000 acres of summer range in the Wasatch Mountains owned by one large sheep company is valued at $6 per acre. Its original cost was from $1 to $5 per acre, and the major portion cost but $2 per acre. The company recently refused an offer to lease these lands at 20 cents per acre per year. As they estimate the grazing capacity of the land to be one sheep to each 3 acres, this would make the grazing upon such land cost the lessees at the rate of 60 cents per head for the summer season only, or not to exceed seven months at the longest, and generally less than six, according to the season. Some of the summer mountain ranges in Idaho bring prices equal to the Utah lands mentioned. These prices have been gradually increasing for some years past, owinff to the rapid development of the sheep industry and the desire of tlie sheepmen to secure a range where they would be free from tJie encroachment of both the settler and the wandering sheep herds. For the most part, these lands which are now being used by the western sheepmen are areas which will probably never be usable for any other class of live stock. This is particularly true of the desert ranges and also of many parts of the mountainous regions where no domestic animals but sheep will graze. Costs of forage. — ^The increased cost of forage for sheep in all parts of the West has been very marked during the last five or six years. This increase has been due to several causes. One of the very first items of increased cost which the average sheep owner mentions is the charge for grazing upon the various national forests. This charge, which runs from 10 cents per head for the entire year in the Southwest to 14 cents in the Northwest, was, of course, not known 10 years ago, and however slight it may be in comparison with the value of the feed obtained, yet it means, of course, an increase in running expenses. This use of the forests by the sheep does not cover the entire year except in a few forests, and on an average the sheep do not occupy the national forest ranges more than six months of each year, at an average cost of approxi- mately 6 cents per head for the ranges in the Southwest and 8 cents per head for those in the Northwestern States. In the 12 great sheep-raising States of the Rocky Mountain region— Texas, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Nevada, California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado — the total number of sheep for 1910 was approximately 30,000,000. Of this number, about one-fifth were grazed upon the various national forests during the year 1910. There are no national forests in Texas, but that State is included nevertheless. '\\Tiile little hay or grain was fed to range sheep a decade ago be- cause there was plenty of good range available, the increase in num- bers of the sheep and the constantly decreasing area of available range have forced the sheep owners in the last 10 years to spend a great deal for winter feed. In southern Idaho the owners report that 10 years ago alfalfa hay was worth from $2 to $3 per ton, while to-day it is bringing $5 or $6 in some places. In the Las Animas Valley in southeastern Colorado they formerly found all the hay they wanted at $2 and $3, but to-day it is scarce at $7.50 to $8 a ton. Cottonseed cake has gone up in price from $10 a ton to $32.50, which price was paid for it by the Qarload last winter in many parts of the Southwest. Corn formerly cost from 60 to 75 cents, a hundredweight, while last winter it cost from $1.10 to $1.25 a hundredweight. Sheep are essentially scavengers. They will eat forage plants which no other domestic animal will touch. Weeds and other plants which are not properly classed as grass are eaten with avidity, and a range upon which cattle would not thrive will easily support sheep. Moreover, the water question is another element to be considered. Cattle and horses must have water in plenty, and a range with little water is useless for that class of stock. Sheep, on the other hand, apparently manage to thrive fairly well with succulent feeds and forage plants and the dew, especially in the mountains, where in sum- mer it is no uncommon thing ip allow a flock to go without water to drink for some time, with no apparent injury or suffering. Thou- sands of sheep in the West derive all the moisture they get at times from eating snow, and "• watering sheep " on great snow banks high up on the mountain side is a common practice there. While sheep will stand this, cattle and horses lose flesh rapidly where no other moisture is obtainable. Losses, — The question of losses is one which haunts the western sheepman day and night. When the sheep are on the winter ranges, he dreads the possibility of a deep snow, which will cover up the feed and make moving the sheep difficult, if not impossible. This particularly is true in the Northwest, where in the winter of 1910 for example many sheepmen found their flocks snow-bound miles away from feed of any kind. In many cases the owners were forced to buy hay at unusually high prices, hfive it baled and shipped to the nearest railroad point and then moved out either in wagons or packed on horses and mules to where the sheep were, the snow being so deep and the road so difficult that wagons could not always be used. Others hired teams, and with snowplows a trail was broken through the snow for many miles across the range, over which the starving slieep were carefully driven, some of them so weak that it was necessary to pick them up along the trail and haul them on sleds to where the hay was placed. In the Southwest, during the same winter, the snow would have been more than welcome, for there they faced a drought which caused heavy losses. The sheep had been moved to the desert ranges as usual, with the expectation of lambing there. Neither rain nor snow fell, and at the critical time, just as lambing was at hand, the owners found they must either move the sheep or lose everything. The sheep were worked to the railroad shipping points by means of hay hauled into the desert, and in some cases water was hauled out in tank wagons and given the sheep in troughs from the wagon. In this way the animals were moA^ed to ranges where water and feed were to be had and their owners were saved from a total loss, although the expenses and losses were heavy enough to offset any profit on the year's business. 598 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. During the winter of 1899, owing to deep snows, one New Mexico sheep owner lost, of his entire floeli of 40,000 sheep, a total of 18,000 old sheep, while in the spring of 1909 another New Mexico owner lost over 12,000 spring lambs — ^his entire crop. A study of the situation and conditions frequently shows losses to be due to a lack of shelter on the range. A " norther " sweeps down across the country, and one flock finds shelter under a low range of hills or a few scattering cedars, while the other, lacking these essen- tials, drifts into some ravine or dry wash, under the sheltering banks of which they find apparent security from the storm. But the drift- ing snow falls into the wash, and the sheep are rapidly covered by it, smothering to death before they can be moved. Hundreds of sheep are lost every winter in this manner. Losses from poisonous plants are also very frequent. On a good range with plenty of feed few sheep are lost from such causes, but when the range is overgrazed or the sheep have been driven many miles over sheep trails almost as bare of feed as a floor, they will eat greedily plants which they otherwise would not touch. Every sheepman in the Rocky Mountain region counts upon a cer- tain percentage of losses each year from poisonous plants which in- fest the ranges, and against which there seems to be but little protection. There are also regular losses from predatory animals, which are taken into account by all sheepmen. Thousands of dollars are annually paid out by the State governments as well as the sheep- men in bounties for their destruction. , These bounties, often doubled by the sheep owners, are turned over by them to the herders to en- courage them in the work of extermination, and they are also freely furnished with ammunition and rifles, as well as traps and poison. Losses by " cuts " or small bunches of animals which get cut off from the main band and are not discovered by the herders are quite frequent. Sometimes the "stray gatherers" find and return part or all of these cuts, but more often they are picked off one by one by the coyotes, wild cats, and other predatory animals which continually hang along the flanks of every sheep herd the year round. The coyote is the one great scourge of the western sheepman. Unlike other wild animals, the coyote takes kindly to civilization and rather flourishes under it. Every year thousands upon thou- sands are killed, and yet there seems to be but little reduction in their numbers. To these predatory animals the western sheepman pays a heavy annual toll and one which cuts deeply into his expected profits. Larrbb losses. — In addition to the losses among the old sheep, there is a regular los§ among the lambs between the time of " marking up," which takes place when they are about 2 or 3 weeks old and the lime of selling. This loss is due to a great variety of causes. Two bands are some- times accidentally mixed on the range. In the worry and " milling" attending the separation many lambs lose their mothers, and if too young soon die, or if they live are stunted. A good many lambs die from the docking operation and many more from castrating. Taking the various causes into consideration, it is a conservative estimate to place the loss among the lambs between marking-up time and selling time at 10 per cent. That is, if 1,000 lambs are REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULrE K. 599 " marked up " in May the owner will do well if, counting every lamb in the bunch, whether a " top " or a " cut back," he has 900 to sell in November. Increase. — The rate of increase among sheep varies very greatly. One hears of bands where the lambing amounted to over a hundred per cent. In small flocks, where every ewe is watched and made to own her lamb, the crop is higher than in the large bands, where it is imprac- ticable to give them all personal attention. Yet in northern Arizona, in the spring of 1911, one company marked up 18,000 lambs to 18,000 ewes, or a lamb for every ewe in the flock. This was a remarkable record, but the conditions for lambing were ideal — the ewes were in first-class condition, and there was plenty of help to care for every ewe as she dropped her lamb. Table XI shows in its proper column the average rate of increase in the various States under consideration, which is believed to approximate very closely the general average for these States under normal conditions. Miscellaneous costs. — ^There are a multitude of small expenditures, some or all of which every sheepman has to meet, which, while none of them is very large, in the aggregate make a very considerable and generally overlooked addition to the expenses of running a band of sheep. In order to reach their ranges without a long detour around a deep canyon otherwise uncrossable, one Idaho company was obliged to erect aJb their own expense two suspension bridges, one of which cost them $300 and the other $1,500. These bridges are used but twice a year, when the sheep go to the mountain ranges and again when they return. Then, again, on many ranges, especially in the Northwest, high water or deep rivers cut the sheep off from their summer or winter ranges. Fees for ferrying the sheep across these streams are not uncommon in statements of expenses. Twenty years ago few western sheep were dipped. To-day with few exceptions a large majority of them are dipped at least once per year. Almost every owner includes dipping in the list of his in- creased costs of production. Damages to fields into which the sheep work their way is an occasional cause of expense. Herders are care- less and allow the sheep to graze close to some fenced inclosure into which they creep, and the farmer calls on the owner for damages. In the Southwest it occasionally happens that sheepmen must buy water from the railroads for shearing or lambing camps. One Now Me:^ico owner in 1910 was shearing his sheep at a point on the rail- road where usually there was plenty of water. The season had been dry, however, and he was forced to buy carloads of water from the railroad company for camp purposes and also to water the sheep. The cost for water was $15 per car, and it took 10 cars of water to carry them through. In the Sacramento Mountains of New Mexico, in 1910, another owner found his flock ready to lamb, and owing to the dry season, with no water for the sheep at his usual lambing grounds, he was forced to haul water from a spring 15 miles distant, using two four-mule teams constantly for the work. The wagons went from one small band to the other on the range and considerable road building was necessary. He estimated that this extra expense was about $250. License tax. — Some of the Western States have what is known as a license tax, which requires any person bringing a band of sheep 600 EEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUU5 K. W! into the State to pay a license fee varying from 3 to 10 cents per head. This tax or fee is sometimes left, to the discretion of the vari- ous counties, and it is not unusual to find one county in a State col- lecting the fee from sheep herds belonging in a county immediately adjoining it in the same State and which must pass across it to reach the summer or winter ranges as the case may be. Protection for lambs, — ^Means of scaring away coyotes and other wild animals during lambing time cost every slieepman more or less each year. Some Idaho sheepmen report an annual cost of from $35 to $100 for dynamite cartridges, which are exploded at intervals dur- ing the night to scare the wild animals away. Fireworks and " bombs " are often bought for the same purpose. Powder is fired during the night by boys employed especially for the purpose, and coal oil is burned m red lanters which are hung about the various lambing places. Coal for camp&. — In the Northwest, where the owners use the im- proved sheep wagons for their herders, each wagon is fitted up with a small steel range. On the vast, treeless deserts where the sheep are wintered it is' difficult and at times impossible to find fuel for the stoves as well as for the camps. The expense of coal for this pur- pose, often purchased at high rates, is found in many of the schedules submitted, sometimes amounting to as much as $150 for a single large outfit running several wagons and campa Shipping meep to ana from the ranges, — One item of increased cost is that of shipping flocks to and from the ranges. In the old days when there were few settlers and the whole country was practically open the moving of the sheep from the winter to the summer ranges and back again was simply a matter of grazing them along until they reached their destination. At the present time, however, many sheep owners are forced to ship their flocks by rail to and from the separate ranges or suffer heavy losses from their getting thin and weak and also as a result of damage claims from settlers along the route. One large Utah sheep company owns a summer range in the Wa- satch Mountains pf eastern Utah. Their winter range is on the Utah Desert, some 200 miles to the west. Under old conditions there was not only no los» in trailing the sheep to and from the ranges, but often an actual gain in flesh. Now, however, the country between the two ranges has been so well settled up as a result of irrigation and dry farming that much of the way lies through endless lanes between fields where there is no feed whatever and the hungry animals must be fed hay, purchased often at high prices. Besides this the sheep, trailing along and hungry, will eat weeds and other poisonous plants which under ordinary conditions they would not touch, often making heavy losses from this cause. This company is forced to ship every animal they own to and from the two ran^s at a very heavy annual cost. While this condition is not general it still obtains to a very considerable extent, making an additional charge against the expense account which was formerly un- known. The annual cost to this one company for this shipment is $4,367.65, or about 8 cents per head each vear. Other owners report even higher per head costs for this purpose, the maximum being 15 centsV hVad paid by an Idaho compaST BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. THE SOUTHWESTERN RANGES. 601 Generally speaking, in the Southwestern States (Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, and Arizona) sheep raising is one of the great industries, and a large part of the people are interested in it. In New Mexico sheep raising has been the chief industry of the State for over 200 years. The conditions governing the business are practically the same in all the States of this section. Most of the sheep owners utilize the areas within the national forests for their summer grazing, while a few use them the year round. Except in Texas, where there is no open public land, very few of the owners have bought large areas of range for their sheep, contenting themselves, as a rule, with the lease or purchase of land which lies around watering places and thus con- trols the adjacent public lands. Water is scarce on almost all of these ranges, and in some parts large sums have been spent in developing watering places. In south- eastern New Mexico a large company which uses the open Govern- ment range almost exclusively has five deep wells, sunk at great ex- pense, for watering its sheep. Without this expense, however, the range about the wells would be almost wholly useless, excepting for short times each summer, when the rains may fill surface basins, but these can not be depended upon for permanent water. The carrying capacity .of the ranges in New Mexico, Arizona, and Colorado is very low. On an average, for the best summer and the ordinary winter ranges, it is doubtful if they will carry more than one sheep to 10 acres. Of the mountain ranges of northern Arizona the best ranges are commonly estimated to have a carrying capacity of about 100 grown sheep per section of 640 acres, or^6.4 acres per sheep. In the handling of herds in the Southwest practically the same methods are employed as in the Northwest. Lambing, except for a few of the Arizona sheep, begins in the latter part of April. As soon as the lambs are strong enough and the snow will permit, the herds are moved into the higher mountain ranges and they leave them in the fall just before the first snows and drop down into the foothills and open prairies, where they winter. Very little winter feeding is done in this section, because there is no feed available except what has grown on the ground during the summer. For the most part the winter feed consists of the browse, sage, and similar forage plants, with some grass — ^generally the grama and bunch grasses. The snow seldom interferes with the sheep here. In fact, lack of snow is more to be dreaded than too much of it. This is because on a large part of the winter range snow furnishes the only available water supply, and if there is no snow the sheep suffer. Thousands of sheep go through the winter without seeing open water more than a few times, obtaining all the water they require from the snow banks. The winter here is much shorter than in the Northwest, and of course not so severe on the sheep. Occasionally, as in the winter of 1903, snow falls unusually deep and lies upon the ^ound for long periods, and then the losses are heavy, but this is the exception rather than the rule. » 602 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. I IHf ' The rough range, scarcity of water, and excessive acreage required for the sheep make it absolutely necessary to keep more men to each thousand sheep in the Southwest than in the Northwest, both during lambing time and through the rest of the year. This variation m the number of men employed is given in Table XI, which shows on an average tlie number of sheep cared for by the normal force fw 12 months. The minimum is in New Mexico, where it averages 1 man to each 741 head of sheep. The maximum is in Montana, where it averages 1 man for each 1,556 sheep. The table on page 605, giving the breed of rams and ewes used throughout the West, is also important. It is readily seen that the Southwest is still, as it always has been, the home of the range merino. But little of the mutton blood has been introduced into the flocks of this region, and the indications are that, for obvious reasons — climate, range, etc. — these conditions will continue to exist for many years to come. CAMFOSNIA. The conditions surrounding the raising of sheep in the State of California are so different from the rest of the AYest in some respects that this section should be discussed alone. Here we find the sheep handled in various ways — some entirely on the open Government ranges the year round, some on Government lands (the national forests) in the summer, and for the rest of the year within fenced inclosures. Other flocks are grazed the year round in fenced inclosures, as they are handled in Australia and New Zealand, and on lands in most instances of very high value for other agricultural uses than sheep grazing. Again, in the breeds used we find that California is about equally divided between merino and cross-bred. Broadly speaking, the sheep in the southern part of the State, where range conditions are some- what similar to Arizona and New Mexico, are generally of the merino blood, while in the northern end the mutton breeds predominate. The demand for mutton in this Stat« appears to be for hea^T car- casses rather than for light lambs, as in the East, and we find men keeping wethers in their flocks until they are 3 or 4 years old before marketing them. The decline in numbers of sheep with the advent.of tlie farmer is nowhere more noticeable than in California. In the year 1880 the State reported over 7,500,000 sheep within her borders. With that vear began the tremendous change in agricul- tural conditions all along the Pacific coast, which was most active in California, and we find that by 1890 the number of sheep had dropped to 4,000,000, with California in the second place in the list of States. The flood of home seekers still continued, lands used for over a hundred years for grazing sheep and cattle came under the plow, and by 1900 California had dropped to the tenth place, with 2,000,000 sheep. In 1910, with a few over 2,250,000 sheep, slie had risen to the eighth place. A large number of California sneep are sheared twice each year. This is done mainly because of the heavy winter rains which load the open-fleeced sheep down with a burden of water as well as injuring the fleece itself. Another reason for semiannual shearing is the loss of wool in the brushy ranges used by many Califoniia sheepmen. With the close merino fleece this loss is not so great, but with the REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 603 open fleece it becomes a serious matter. The number of sheep cared for by one man is high, being 1 to each 1,225 sheep the year round. This helps to reduce the labor cost, which is considerably below the average for the Southwest. Many California flocks regularly lamb within fenced inclosures, where the young are dropped without any attention on the part of the men. Eeports from those lambing in this manner indicate that there is a decided increase in the number of lambs saved, as well as a very great decrease in the lambing costs. In the southern part of the State the flocks winter either in fenced areas or on the open ranges. This section of the State is peculiarly well prepared for lambing time if the spring rains have been normal, because of the great amount of alfileria, foxtail, poverty grass, and other spring feeds which grow luxuriantlv all over the plains and footliills, making the most satisfactory feed for lambing that is known anywhere in the western country. Back of these plains lie the high Sierras, where the sheep find splendid feed through the summer. Here the lambs mature very rapidly, while the wethers take on excellent weights. In the fall they drop down into the foothills, where the majority of them are placed upon the grainfields, finding in the stubble superior feed upon which to finish up the lambs and wethers for market. Very high prices are paid for this stubble feed, especially where, besides the ordinary weeds and forage plants, wild morning-glory flourishes in great abundance. After the fat stuff is sold off the ewes are handled, both on the open Government lands and inside the fields until the next spring, when they again go into the mountains. On the eastern, or Nevada, slopes of the Sierras, sheep are handled in large numbers in the summer and wintered on the Nevada deserts. THE NORTHWEST. Generally speaking the Northwest is the mutton-producing part of the western range. Here conditions permit the use of the mutton rams that are so popular in England. Finding their ranges fairly well adapted to these, the north- western sheep raisers began to breed for mutton as well as for wool, although continuing to retain the merino blood in the ewe flocks. The ranges of the Northwest differ in many respects from those farther south. Water is more plentiful, the ranges more open, and sheep can be handled in larger bands without danger or "cuts." The winters are much longer, more severe, the snow deeper, and the danger from blizzards and sudden storms much "more to be guarded against than in the Southwest or in California. Against this, however, the northwestern raisers are generally much nearer to feed in large quantities than their southern neighbors. Hay and grains, too, are cheaper because of the greater amounts raised in the Northwest. AVhere a southwestern herder will find sufficient shelter from the weather under a canvas wagon sheet spread between two cedars, or ]>erhaps hung over a rope between poles set in the ground, the north- western herders are protected in large tents, often furnished with 604 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 605 heating stoves. In the Southwest the " sheep wagon " is almost un- known, while it is a familiar figure in every sheep camp all over the northwestern ranges. The canvas wagon sheet goes with a fews burros and pack saddles, but the sheep wagon calls for a first-class team of horses, with harness and other equipment, including grain for tne team. If he would have his lambs ready for the market they must he born in the early spring before weather conditions make lambing safe; hence some northwestern sheepmen arrange for the lambing inside great tents heated with stoves, or in sheds where the ewes are fed hay, and where this is not done, small individual tents, under which a ewe and her lamb may be huddled overnight, are set up on the lambmg ground wherever the ewe happens to be found with her lamb. As in the rest of the West, the herds find the greater part of their summer feed in the high mountain ranges about them. Into these ranges they can not take their sheep for at least a month later than the sheepmen in the Southwest go into their mountain pastures. This is, of course, due to the length of time which the snow lies on the ranges, it being on an average for the whole region fully June 10 before sheep may enter tlie mountains and find the ranges free from snow and the grass sufficiently advanced to furnish feed. Again, the northwestern sheep owners must leave these same mountain ranges from two to four weeks sooner than they do in the Southwest, because of the danger from early snowstorms. Taking the two sections together, it is not far from the general average to say that the southwestern sheep get fully six weeks more feed from the mountain ranges than they do in 'the Northwest. To put it more definitely, the season for the whole Southwest in the moun- tains will be close to five months, while for the Northwest it will not average more than three and one-half months. Thus it is that the cost of forage and the miscellaneous expenses per sheep for the northwestern section is so much higher than else- where in the West. The feed found in the mountain ranges is the best feed the western sheep obtain, and under the charges made for it by the Forest Service is by far the cheapest. AVhenever the western sheepman moves his flocks to the winter ranges, his expenses increase very greatly. Therefore the flocks that can remain away from the winter ranges the longest are maintained at a lower rate proportion- ately than the others. THE BKEEDINO OF W^ESTERN BANQE SHEEP. In the early days of sheep raising in the West wool was the chief marketable product of the flocks. Since the intro- duction of the mutton breeds, we find that, in many of the Western States, the range ewes carry a small percentage of the blood of the various mutton breeds. This is largely for the purpose of increasing the size and mutton conformation of the ewe stock. Of all the mutton breeds which have been introduced into the western rang3 country the Shropshire, Cotswold, Lincoln, Hampshire, and Oxford have become the most popular. The leading essentials of range sheep are production of a good, dense fleece; good mutton conformation; hardiness; adaptability to herding together in large flocks; the habit of grazing without scattering too much. Owing to the fact that wool is one of the important products of range sheep, a high shearing average, together with a good quality of wool, is very desirable. Range sheep should have a fleece that is rather dense, iJecause the animals must endure all kinds of weather.. With a too-open fleece a considerable amount of wool is lost by being pulled out by the brush and shrubs as the sheep graze. As a general proposition flock owners are especially anxious to obtain as good a combination of wool and mutton as they can pos- sibly secure. The ewe stock which are run on the ranges always carry a large per cent of merino blood. The amount of mutton blood in the ewes will depend largely upon the object in view. Wliere ewes that contain a lair percentage of mutton blood are crossed with mutton rams, it is very seldom that any of the lambs will be kept to maintain the flock. Range sheep should be hardy, as they must endure all kinds of storms, and to secure hardiness a certain percentage of merino blood is necessary. Range sheep must have the disposition to herd together in large numbers, and a certain percentage of fine- wool blood must be used to secure this essential. It is a well-known fact that the mutton breeds will not herd together like fine wools, and where too large percentage of mutton blood is used in breeding stock the sheep are very likely to scatter too much in herding. There have been two systems of breeding sheep in the range coun- try — one to produce sheep adapted for range conditions and the other to produce sheep that will fulfill the market requirements. Most of the large outfits in the West have been using both fine- wool and mutton rams. The lambs produced from the fine-wool rams have been used in replacing the old breeding stock disposed of from year to year, as well as increasing the flock in numbers, while the lambs produced from the mutton rams have been marketed. The following table shows the breed of rams and ewes in flocks reported upon by the agents of the Tariff Board : Per cent. ABIZONA. Bams: Rambouillet 83 Shropshire 9 Merino 4 Oxford 4 Ewes: Merino 54 Rambouillet 46 NEW MEXICO. Bams: Rambouillet 78 Merino 14 Shropshire 6 Delaine - - - - 2 Ewes: Merino 49 Rambouillet 43 Delaine 3 Common 5 COLORADO. Per Rams: **°*- Rambouillet 59 Shropshire 15 Oxford 5 Lincoln 4 Merino 4 Cotswold 2 Hampshire 2 Oxford 5 Delaine 4 Ewes: Rambouillet 44 Merino 42 Delaine 5 Oxford 3 Lincoln 2 Hampshire 2 Shropshire 2 606 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. '|!"'fPP' jk 'WM' Pot Kanifl: oent. Cotawold 56 Rambouillet 44 Ewee: Rambouillet 44 Cotewold 44 Merino 12 NEVADA. Bams: Shropshire 76 Merino , 8 Cotswoid 8 Rambouillet 8 Ewes: Merino 58 Cotswoid 17 Delaine 17 Shropshire 8 CALIFORNIA. Bams: Merino 36 Shropshire 36 Ramoouillet 9 Cotswoid 9 Hampshire 5 Delaine 5 Ewes: Merino 94 Rambouillet 6 OREGON, Bams: Delaine 27 Shropshire. 21 Rambouillet 21 Iiincohi 15 Merino 13 Cotswoid 3 Ewes: Delaine 38 Rambouillet 30 Merino 25 Shropshire 2 Lincoln 1 WASHINGTON. Per Bams: cent. Shropshire 55 Lincoln 27 Rambouillet 18 Ewes: Rambouillet 100 MONTANA. Bams: Cotswoid 36 Rambouillet 28 Hampshire 14 Dekme 11 Oxford 6 Merino 3 Shropshire 2 Ewes: Rambouillet 33 Cotswoid 33 Hampshire , 11 Merino 14 Delaine 9 IDAHO. Rams: Cotswoid 35 Shropshire 19 Lincoln 16 Hampshire 10 Rambouillet 7 Merino 6 Delaine " 4 Oxford 3 Ewes: Merino 62 Cotswoid 22 Lincoln 13 Delaine 3 WYOMING. Bams: Merino 34 Rambouillet 30 Cotswoid 30 Leicester 6 Ewes: Merino 66 Rambouillet 24 Cotswoid 10 In Arizona the ewes are mostly grade merinos, including both the American and Rambouillet types. In some flocks will be found ewes carrying a small per cent of Navajo blood, which is being eliminated as rapidly as possible. The mutton blood represented in the ewes is mostly that ot the Shropshire, which for a few years was the most Eopufar breed of mutton sheep in the Southwest, but more Ram- ouillet rams are now being used. This is largely due to the size and the mutton conformation of the breed. Practically, the only mutton breed used to any extent is the Shropshire, although a few Oxfords are being tried, In New Mexico the ewes are largely grade merinos of the American or Spanish and Eambouillet tjrpes. The so-called Mexican merino plays an important part in the breeding of the ewes in some sections. Shropshire blood is also rep- REPORT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 607 resented to a certain extent in the ewe stock. Breeders are gradually ridding their flocks of Mexican merino blood. The rams used in New Mexico are largely grade and pure-bred Rambouillets and Delaine merinos. The Rambouillet is being used more and more every year in New Mexico, and the few strictly mutton rams are mostly Shropshire. One or two breeders are giving the Persiarino a trial with very good results. In Colorado the ewes are largely grade merino of the American, Mexican, and Rambouillet type. There is Shropshire, Delaine, Lin- coln, and Oxford blood represented in many of the ewes. The Rambouillet is the most popular type of fine-wool rams used in this State at the present time. The mutton breeds represented are largely the Shropshire, while a few Lincolns, Oxfords, and Cots- wolds are being used. In Utah the ewes are largely grade Rambouillet, grade merinos, and grade merino-Cotswold. The rams used are Cotswoid, Rambouillet, Lincoln, and Shropshire. Utah breeders are using a large number of Cotswoid rams, as the ranges of this State are especially well adapted to the habits of this bred. One of the largest pure-bred flocks of Cotswolds in this country, in fact in the world, is found in Utah. In Nevada the ewes are largely grade merinos, with some Delaine and Rambouillet blood. The mutton blood represented in the ewe stock is mainly that of the Shropshire and Cotswoid. There is not much Mexican blood in this State. The rams used in Nevada are largely Shropshire with some Rambouillet and merinos and Cots- wolds. ^ „ ^ ^ . ^ California has a large number of merinos of the so-called Spanish type, and in some sections they are still raising merino wethers until they are from 2 to 4 years of age before marketing them. The Rambouillet has been used in crossing with the other types of merinos largely for the purpose of increasing the size and improving the mutton conformation, and to-day some of the best Rambouillet flocks in the United States are found in California. The mutton blood represented in the ewe stock in California is mostly Shropshire. Shropshire rams are the most popular of the mutton rams, and during the past few years a number of pure-bred flocks of this breed have been established. A few Cotswoid, Hamp- shire, and Southdown rams are also used. In Oregon the ewes are largely grade merinos of the Delaine and Rambouillet types. The mutton blood represented in the ewe stock is largely that of the Cotswoid, Lincoln, and Shropshire. Oregon ewes are noted all over the range country for tlieir size, and ewes from this State have been shipped to many of the other range States for breeding purposes and the foundation of range flocks. The Willamette Valley, in the northwestern part of the State, is one of the few districts of the West especially noted for the produc- tion of longwools, such as the Cotswoid and Lincoln. During the past few years longwools produced in this valley have won prizes over imported sheep at some of the sheep shows in the Northwest. In Washington the ewes are largely grade merino of the Ram- bouillet and Delaine types. The majority of the rams used are Shropshire^ Rambouillet, and Lincoln. 608 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. nr . ^ontana the ewes have a large percentage of mutton blood Most of the ffrade merinos are of the Rambouillet and Delaine types* Ihe mutton blood represented in the ewe stock is largely that of the Cotswold, Hampshire, and Shropshire breeds. The ranges in this fetate are especially well adapted for handling ewes that carry a certain percentage of mutton blood. Most of the rams used are Cotswold, Rambouillet, Delaine, Hampshire, Oxford, and Shropshire. in Idaho the ewes are largely grade merinos, such as the Delaine and Kambouillets. The mutton blood represented in the ewe stock IS generally that of the Cotswold, Lincoln, Hampshire, and Shrop- shire. The rams used for breeding are mainly Cotswold, Lincoln, Shropshire, Hjampshire, and Rambouillet. ' Idaho stands next to Nevada in the number of mutton rams used in her flocks, and the State has been noted during the past few years for the excellent lambs which they have shipped to the leading markets. They have repeatedly topped the early markets, both for weight and finish, while the growers have been able to have them S^t ^^^P°^®^* ^^^ «»®^o *^ee weeks ahead of the other range K.'^^iiy^^'?'^!*^® T^ are largely grade merinos of the Ram- bouillet and Delaine types. The mutton blood represented in the ewe stock is mostly that of the Cotswold, Lincoln, Hampshire, and Shropshire. In some sections of the St^te the ewes carry a small percentage of I^icester blood. The rams used for breedinc. are mainly merino Rambouillet, Cotswold, Lincoln, Hampshire, Oxford, Shropshire, and Leicester. > r » u. PART 11. RAW WOOLS.-ADDEi\DA. MOHAIR PRODUCTION IN THE UNITED STATES. 320S0°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 1 39 609 i THE AITGORA GOAT AITD MOHAIR PRODUCTION IN THE UinTED STATES. t In 1899 the number of Angora goats in the United States was estimated at 454,932 head, over two-thirds of which were in the three States of Texas, CaUfornia, and New Mexico.^ The mohair from these goats amounted to 961,328 pounds. In 1910 there were practically 1,500,000 head of Angoras, the majority of which were still found in the Southwest — ^in Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. The hair sheared from these goats in 1910 amounted to over 4,250,000 pounds, or a little less than 3 pounds per head. In 1899 the mills of the United States used 1,077,000 pounds of domestic mohair, which undoubtedly included some held over from the crop of 1898. The amount of imported mohair for the year 1899 was 1,119,465 pounds, making a total of 2,196,465 pounds used in the United States for that year. In the year 1910 the importation of mohair, including alpaca, into the United States amounted to 1,966,918 pounds. The leading Amerjcan mills using mohair report that for the year 1910 they used a total of 3,648,868 pounds of domestic mohair and 1,119,573 pounds of imported mohair. These figures, both for the number of pounds of mohair produced and the amount used in the mills, indicate that the industry has made reasonable advances during the past decade. Sources of mohair. — ^There are three principal sources of mohair in the world — Turkey, South Africa, and the United States. According to the most reliable infoimation available, there are in the region about the velayet of Angora, where the breed of Angora goats originated, approximately 1,200,000 of these goats. In all Africa, but mostly in the Cape Province of the South African Union, there are about 3,585,000 Angoras, with about 5,000,000 goats of the common breeds. Unfortunately for the preservation of the pure Ajigora blood, the Turks many years ago began to cross their flocks with the common '*Kurd" goats, which resulted in so great an infusion of inferior blood that to-day all goat raisers agree that there are no '* pure-blood" Angoras left, those now used being more or less contaminated with the common blood. To protect its flo€ks from being drawn upon and to preserve to the Turkish people the Angoras in their purest state, the Turkish Govern- ment some years ago prohibited the exportation of Angoras, and later the South African Government, evidently alarmed at the rapid rise of the business in the United States, placed a very liigh export duty (£100 = 1484) per head on all the Angoras exported from that country and subsequently prohibited their export entirely. The Ajnerican Angora raiser therefore has had in recent years but the one source for obtaining new blood to build up the floc1?:s in tliis 1 Agricultoial statistics. 6U 612 REPORT OF TAEIFF BOAED OX SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 613 couBtry— South Africa; but, fortuBately, before the Turkish embargo was passed some of the best of the Turkish goats had been exported to the United States and also to South Africa, so that in all probabihty, due to the higher interest taken by the Angora raisers in these coun- tries, it is not Mkely that much better blood can be procured in Angora itself than may be found in either South Africa or tlie United States. Mohair and its uses, — As stated before, in the year 1910 the Ameri- can mills used almost 5,000,000 pounds of mohair, about two-tliirds of which was of American raising. Comparing the imported hair with the domestic, manufacturers agree tliat the domestic lacks brightness and luster and does not spin so well as the Turkish hair. Omng to certain climatic condi- tions, especially in the Southwest, it is necessary to shear the goats twice a year, wliich of course results in a much shorter staple, whereas the foreign goats are generally shorn but once a year. Every effort is made to grow as long a staple as possible, and in Oregon and some parts of California, where the goats are sheared but once a year, the production of hair between 15 and 20 inches in length is not unusual in flocks where the grade has been kept up to the highest possible standard. For the United States as a whole, where the fleece is allowed to grow an entire year, the average length is about 10 inches. The imported, hair shrinks on an average of about 14 per cent, the domestic 17 per cent. The amount of the shrinkage varies greatly, however, with the State or section from which it is shipped, that of the Southwest being of a much heavier shrinkage than hair received from the Northwest, The following articles are made from mohair: Plushes used for railway cars and upholstering furniture^ coat linings, dress goods, men's summer suits, automobile tops, braids, rugs, and carriage robes, imitation furs for women's and children's wear, couch and table covers, portieres, and crimped and curled mohair for making false hair. The skins tanned with tha hair on are used extensively for carriage robes, muffs, and trimmings for coats and capes. The market for mohair is dependent very greatly upon the caprices of fashion; a change in the fasliion for women's clothes may result in either a ^eater demand for mohair or a heavy falling oft. At the present time the fashions call for a large amount of manufactured goods in which mohau- enters, with the result that the prices and demand for mohair for the past two years have been very much improved. Considering the amount of domestic hair now being produced and the amount used by the American mills, it is apparent that the future of Angora goat-raising industry Mes in imj^rovmg rather than increas- ing their output of mohair and in educating the American people to the eating of **Angora mutton." The margin between the supply of American mohair and mill demand seems to be approximately the number of pounds of hair imported. One reason for the importations appears to be that there is a shortage of the higher grades in the domestic supply. The American growers can possibly increase their mohair shipments to this amount without overtaking the mill demand, provided, always, they can improve the grade of the hair until it is equal or superior to the imported article. Most mohair experts agree that when proper care and attention is given, American mohair equal to the best South African or Turkish mohair can be raised in this country. Quality of the hair. — The manufacturers state that as a general thing the production of domestic hair has improved greatly during the last few years, both in staple and in freedom from kemp or dead hairs. In using the domestic and imported hair the manufacturers usually blend the imported in such a proportion as to enable them to use the resulting blend in most of their products. As the goat grows older the fiber of the hair becomes straighter and thicker and loses its curly quahty as well as its luster; hence the best hair comes from the kids, young wethers, and young does. The highest grade of monair should hang in curly ringlets from all parts of the animaFs body. The mohair manufacturers prefer hair not less than 6 inches in length, one of the leading mills stating that they could use very Httle of the southwestern hair on account of its being too short. Some Texas flocks were investigated where the growers had produced fleeces from 15 to 22 inches long, and such fleeces were sold for special purposes, bringing very high prices. The majority of the manufacturers purchase a large percentage of their hair direct from the growers, either personally or through selling agencies established by the Angora Goat Association in the West. The great effort of the Angora raisers of to-day is to develop a goat that will shear a long lustrous, curly fleece of fine character and free from the obnoxious "kemp." Kemp is the long coarse hair wnich, with very few exceptions, is found m even the best of the Angoras. It is believed to be a last reminder of the common blood wliich was bred into the original herds in Turkey, and in the judgment of some of the best growers it will never be completely eradicated. The objection to kemp is that it will not take any of the dyes used in dyemg mohair, and for this reason the manufactured goods are defective whenever the kemp is used. Kemp can readily be discovered in a fleece as it lacks the luster or sheen or the true mohair, being a dead chalky white and coarser than the rest of the fleece. Shearing. — Goats are sheared in the Southwest in the spring, gen- eraUy in February, March, or April, and again in September or October. The shearing is done either by hand or by machine, the cost varying from 5 to 8 cents per head. The fleeces are not tied but siniply roUed and sacked, the kid mohair being sacked by itself. The average shearing value of the American Angora is not as high as it probably might be, due to the admixture of common blood in many of the flocks. The average for the higher class flocks is prob- ably over 3§ pounds per head, but taking the country over, it is proDable that the average will be somewhat under 2 J pounds. The average of aU the flocks investigated by the board is about 3J pounds. One registered flock containing 227 head averaged 5J pounds each. However, a high shearing average is not altogether an evidence of superior mohair. The average for the Turldsh Angoras is but 2} pounds per head according to the best authority available, while that for South Africa is above 3 J pounds per head. It is stated, however, that the Turkish product is of much higher value per pound than that of South Africa, and it is probable that the latter region shears manv older goats, which increases, the output per S14 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. liead but reduces the fineness of the mohair. It is noted that a number of flocks in western United States do not shear to exceed li to 2 pounds per head of a veiy mediocre chiss of hair which brings the lowest price in the market. Goats of this class naturally receive but Mttle attention, and the income from the sales of hair is small. Handling goats on range. — In general, the goats are handled much the same as sheep, excepting that the constant presence of the herder is not necessary. Many goat men turn the goats out of the pens in the earlv" morning, sending a dog with them to keep away wild animals. During the day the herder rides out to the herd once or twice, and notes the direction in which they are feeding. As a general thing, if they are allowed to graze alone, the goats wul travel too fast and cover too much country, which is injurious to the range as well as to the animals. »Careful herders remain with their goats and check this tendency to travel. The necessary equipment for goats is somewhat similar to that of sheep raising, it being absolutely necessary that proper sheds should be furnished to shelter the goats during wet weather, as thmr are very susceptible to moisture. Contrary to general belief, no domestic animal is more fastidious as to its food than the Angora. When fed hay or other artificial foods, everv care must be taken to keep it away from the mud and dirt, as they will refuse to touch any food which is soiled or trampled into the ground. Muddy or foul drinking water will not answer for Angoras, and fresh water must be furnished if they are to do well either on the range or in feed lots. Angoras will always endeavor to find shelter on the approach of a storm and must have sheds under which to creep durmg stormy weather. As long as it is clear and cold, or the snow is dry, they are comfortable and remain out; but with their long, open fleece they are soon soaked if out in the rain and are seriously affected by the moisture on their bodies. Angoras require plenty of air and light, and all sheds provided must be open as much as possible and still keep out the rain or snow. Their pens should never be so located as to become muddy, for the long, silky fleece will pick up a great weight of mud, which not only burdens the animal but stains and injures the fleece. Increase and losses. — ^The average per cent of increase from bred does for 1910, a bad year, was 56.5 per cent. The normal average for the flocks investigated by the Tariff Board for the entire Southwest will not exceed 65 per cent. In some few registered flocks, where especially good care was given at kidding time, an increase of over 100 Eer cent was recorded. The losses among the kids are frequently very eavy. The losses among the older goats are mainly due to preda- tor)' animals, climatic conditions, and starvation. Cold rains after shearing frequently cause heavy loss. The spring of 1010 all over the Southwest was a most unfortunate one for all Angora goat grow- ers, the loss in some cases being almost total, while in many instances it has been estimated that 50 per cent of the goats died from the extremely cold, wet weather of that period. Contrary to the general understanding, the raismg of Angora goats is rather difficult. The young are much more delicate than lambs, and the mortality greater, especially among the well-bred anhnab. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 615 i|b A great deal of personal care is absolutely necessary in raising the kiefs up to about 2 months of age. Many methods are adopted in handling the kids, it having been found necessary not to allow them to follow the doe out on the ranges for some weeks after they are born. Brii| ' HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES / Document I No. 342 KTT^ WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL MESSAGE OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES TRANSMITTING A REPORT OF THE TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K OF THE TARIFF LAW IN TWO VOLUMES VOLUME II (Parts 3, 4, 5, and Index) Manufacturing Costs, Tops, Yarn, and Cloth Ready-Made Clothing Wages and Efficiency of Labor and Machinery in the United States December 21, 1911.— Referred to the Committee on Ways and Means and ordered to be printed with illustrations WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1912 ■ ? I CONTENTS. Remlved by the Hovm of Representatives (the Senate concurring) ^ That there be printed 20,000 additional copies of House Document No. 342, being the message of the President of the United States transmitting a report of the Tariff Board on Schedule K of the tariff law, 12,000 copies for the use of the House of Representa- tives and 8,000 copies for the use of the Senate. Agreed to March 1, 1912. I . Part 3. Manufacturing Costs. Page. Section 1. Manufacturing costs— Extent of the investigation 619 Section 2. Weavers' wage scale and agreements from England, Germany, Austria, France, and Belgium 713 Spinning Mage scales and costs in Germany, England and Belgium .. 775 Dyeing and finishing 737 Part 4. Ready-Made Clothing and Wearing Apparel. Section 1. Ready-made clothing 345 Section 2. Fancy knit goods '.'.'.'. .1'.'.'.'.]'.'. 911 Part 5. Report on Wages and Efficiency of Labor and Machinery "in United States , 947 General table ........[.'.. 1080 General index ILLUSTRATION Top prices, January, 1907, to October, 1911 (diagram), 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 1 Facing page. 644 III mm II PART IIL-MANUFACTURING COSTS, ¥-\ ■> SECTION 1. 617 iWi y h ■ I Il'' ••A f . MAlTUFACTUEmG COSTS. EXTENT OF THE INVESTIGATION. ^ ^^ ^^1 Jl^Ti ^^ *^® '^.?^^ ^.^^ worsted inquiry agents of the board visited 188 different mdls. In some of tliese, eitlier on account of lacfe of cooperation on the part of the manufacturer or lack of system m accounting, it was impossible to secure results that were of practical use to the board. ^ In addition to these mills there were a number of others that were asked to give assistance and information, but who decHned to permit agents of the board to visit them. Verified mformation was obtamed from 174 mills, and such infor- mation was taken by the agents themselves by personal visits. These estabhshments represent 20 States, as follows: Connecticut, Delaware, Ilhnois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maine. &v\^T^^^T?'^^^\^^^-^^^ ^^^ Hampshire, New Jersey New York, Ohio Pennsylvania, Khode Island, "^Vermont, Virginil West Vu-gmia, and Wisconsm. ' ^ ' « i^-S'l?''?^ *^fu ^^f ^^ *^^* *^® mformation was obtamed from wlHc 1 the b^rd has derived its conclusions as to cost of manufacture n? f T.! -""^^ efficiency m the United States. They are representative 01 tlie mdustry m this country, and comprise over two-thirds of Its productive capacity. These mills run 46,280 looms, which is 64, per cent of a 1 of the woo en and worsted looms m the country, and 70 UJ!ff ?n '^ ^^X^^^i^? making woolen and worsted cloth. The of looml i^ ^flf.TM^'^U^'r^.^^ ehmmatmg from the total number inkT, glttpKe? a'nTt^ & '^^^^^' ^^ ^^^ -^-^-^"- ^' tion^k ^O^fiQO t^.^f'^-^'ir^^''^^^ ^r ^^^ ^^"« ^^i^g «"«^ informa- tion IS 108,690, which is 64 per cent of the total number employed in Jff l?lf "^^ emplovees working on the commonly understood lines of woolen and worsted cloth. . These mills represent 1,900,636 producmg spmdles. coSnintTrJfnTnL^^^ ^^'? "?/ ^"^^ t ^^-^r"^ establishment to one fromTo to 9;000 ''"'^^^' ^^ employees the range is dle?to^%"^JJ^^pL^^^^^ exclusively the range is from 4,400 spin- st^^S:^^^;' *^^ cloth-makmg mills visited is Mills under 60 looms From 50 to 100 looms 21 From 100 to 200 looms ^8 From 200 to 600 looms ^] From 600 to 1,000 looms [ : 24 From 1,000 to 2,000 looms ■'^ ver 2,000 looms '.'.*.".' ^ 4 619 *%''' ' 620 KEPOET OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K, BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 621 WOOLEN AND WORSTED MILLS VISITED. The following list gives the names of the mills from which inf orma- tion was secured by the agents of the board: iEina Milk, Watertown, Maes* Akere & Taylor Manufacturing Co., Charlton Citv Mass.; Algonquin Co., Passaic, ^. J.; American Mills Co., Rockville, Conn. Amoa Abbott Co., Dexter, Me.; Amoekeag ManulactmingCo., Manchester, N. H.; Anderson Mills, Skowhegan, Me.; Andrews Mill Co., Prankford, Pa.; Arlington Mills, Lawrence Mass.; AssabetMill, Maynard, Maes,; Aaeawaga Co., Killiiigly, Conn.^ Atlantic Mills' Providence, R. I. ' Ballard vale Mills Co., Ballardvale, Mass.; Beebee, Webber Co., Holyoke, Mass • Beoli Mill, Fitchburg, Mass.; Berkshire Woolen & Worsted Co., Pittsfield, Mass' Blackinton Co., Blackinton, Mass.; Blumenthal, Sidney, A Co., Sheiton Conn • Bochmann, F. A., & Co., Philadelphia; Botany Worsted Mill, Passaic, N J • Bound Brook Woolen Mills, Bound Brook, N.J.; Brighton Worsted Co., Philadelphia Pa • Brightwood Manufacturing Co., North Andover, Mass.; Broad Brook Co., Broad Brook' Conn.; Broadhead Worsted Mills, Jamestown, N.Y.; Brown's Sons, Geo.. Mount Jov Pa.; BurHngton Mills, Winooski, Vt. ^* Caledonia Woolen Mills, Clifton Heights, Pa.; Capital City Woolen Mills, Dea Homes, Iowa; Charlottesville Woolen Mills, Charlottesville, Va.; Clevehind Worsted Mills Co., Cleveland, Ohio; Clinton Woolen Manufacturing Co., Clinton, Mich ; Cocheco Woolen Manufacturing Co., East Rochester, N. H.; Collingwood Mills, Phila- delphia, Pa.; Coronet Worsted Co., Mapleville, R. I.; Cowan Woolen Co., Lewiston, Me.; Crawford Woolen Co., Martinsbuig, W. Va.; Crown Mills, Marcellus, N. Y. Davis & Brown Woolen Co., Uxbridge, Mass.; Delaine Mills, ManajTink, Pa.; Dunn Worsted Mills, Woonsocket, R. I.; Dustin Island Woolen Mills, Penacook, N. H Elm Mills Woolen Co., Tilton, N. H.; Emerald MUls, Philadelphia, Pa.; Empire Worsted Mills, Jamestown, N. Y.; Erben-Harding Co., Philadelphia, Pa. Falls City Woolen Mills, Louisville, Ky.; Farr Alpaca Co., Holyoke, Mass.; Faulk- ner & Colony Manufacturing Co., Keene, N. H.; Faulkner Woolen Mills, Stafford Springs, Conn.; Fern Rock Woolen Mills, Philadelphia, Pa.; Forstmann & Huffmann, Passaic, N. J.; Foxcroft Woolen Mills, Foxcroft, Ale.; Franklin Mills, Franklin Falls, N. H.; French River Textile Co., MechanicsviUe, Conn.; Fulton Mills, Fulton, N Y Garfield Worsted Mills, Garfield, N. J.; Gera Mills, Passaic, N. J.; Germania Mills, Holyoke, Mass.; Gilbert, Geo. H., Manufacturing Co., Ware, Mass.; Glazier Manu- ^cturing Co., South Glastonbur}'. Conn.; Gleason, A. D., Gleasondale, Mass.; Globe Woolen Co., Utica,N. Y.; Gonic Manufacturing Co., Gonic, N. H.; Goodall Worsted Co., Sanford, Me.; Granite State Mills, Guild, N. H.; Great Falls Woolen Co., Somers- worth, N. H.; Greystone Mills, Greystone, R. I.; Groveland Mills, Groveland, Mass.: Grundv, Wm. H., & Co., Bristol, Pa. ' Hadlev Mills, South Hadley Falls, Mass. ; Hall Bros., Preston, Conn.; Hampden Woolen Mills, Bristol, R. I.- Hetzel, Geo. C, Co.. Chester, Pa.: Hillsboro Woolen Mills Co., Hillsboro Bridge, N. H.; Hockanum Mills Co., Rockville, Conn., Holden- Leonard Co., Bennington, Vt. Intervale Mills Corporation, Quinebaug, Conn. Jacksonville' Woolen Mills, Jacksonville, III.; Jamestown Worsted Mills, James- town, N. Y. Kent, Thoe., Manufacturing Co., Clifton Heights, Pa.; Kiamensi Woolen Co., Stanton, Del.; Kunhardt, Geo. E., Lawrence, Mass. La Porte Woolen Mills, La Porte, Ind.; Leominster Worsted Co., Leominster, Mass.; Lippitt Woolen Co., Woonsocket, R. I.; Lorraine Manufacturing Co., Pawtucket, R.I. Mabbett, Geo., & Sons Co., Plymouth, Mass.; Madison Woolen Co., Madison, Me.; j.,c.xx.v^iuii ifv«oM/u vvf., j.jiiaiAfx, x\. X., xiauuiuu-jrruviueuce woreiea jyiiiis, rrov- Idence, R. I.; Nemasket Worsted Mills, Middleboro, Mass.; New Jersey Worsted Spinning Co., Garfield, N. J.; North Adams Manufacturing Co., North Adams, Mass.; Norwalk Mills Co., Winnipauk, Conn. Oakes, Thoe., & Co., Bloomfield, N. J.; Oella Mills, Oella, Md. Pacific MHls, Lawrence, Mass. ; Park Mills, Phihidelphia, Pa. , Peace Dale Manufac- tunng Co., Peace Dale, R. I.; Pentucket Mills, Haverhill, Mass., Pequea Mills, Phil- adelphia, Pa.; Perseverance Worsted Co., Woonsocket, R. I.; Pioneer Woolen Mills, Pittsfield, Me.; Piscataquis Woolen Co., Guilford, Me.; Pocasset Worsted Co., Thorn- ton, R. I.; Pontoosuc Woolen Manufacturing Co., Pittsfield, Mass.; Prendergast, Wm. fl., Bridgeton, R. I.; Princeton Worated Mills, Trenton, N. J. "(0 1^ y Raritan Woolen Mills, Raritan, N. J.; R^ar, N. K., Manufacturing Co., Philadel- phia, Pa.; Reliance Worsted Co., Norwich, Conn.; Ricketts & Shaw, Monson, Mass.; Riverside Woolen Mills, Stafford, Conn.; Robertsford Worsted Mills, Fitchbuig, Mass.; Rock Manufacturing Co., Rockville, Conn.; Rockville Worsted Co., Rock- ville, Conn.; Russell, S. N., & C, Manufacturing Co., Pittsfield, Mass. Salts Textile Manufacturing Co., Norwalk, Conn.; Sawyer Mills, Dover, N. H.; Saxon ville Mill, Saxonville, Mass. ; Sayles & Jenks Manufacturing Co., Warren, Mass.; Schuster Woolen Co., East Douglas, Mass.; Scotia Worsted Mills, Woonsocket, R. I.; Selden Worsted MUls, Lawrence, Mass.; Shackamaxon Mills, Philadelphia, Pa.; Shelboume Mills, Philadelphia, Pa. ; Shetucket Worsted Mills, Baltic, Conn. ; Shirreffs Worsted Co. , Fitchburg, Mass. ; Silesia Worsted Mills, North Chelmsford, Mass. ; Slater, S., & Sons, Webster, Mass.; Smith, I. W., Woolen Co., Bridgeport, Pa.; Smith Woolen Co., Pittsfield, Me.; Somerset Manufacturing Co., Raritan, N. J.; Somerset Woolen Co., Monson, Mass.; Somersville Manufacturing Co , Somersville, Conn.; South Bend Woolen Co., South Bend, Ind.; Standish Worsted Co., Plymouth, Mass.; Star Worsted Co., Fitchburg, Mass.; Stevens Mill, North Andover, Mass.; Stirling Mills, Lowell, Mass.; Strong, Hewat & Co., North Adams, Mass. Taconic Mills, Pittsfield, Mass.; Talbot Mills, North Billerica, Mass. ; Talcott Bros., Talcott ville. Conn.; Thombury Worsted Mills, Bristol, Pa.; Tremont Worsted Co., Methuen, Mass. United States Bunting Co., Lowell, Mass.; United States Worsted Co., Lawrence, Mass.; Uxbridge Worsted Co., Uxbridge, Mass. - Vassalboro Woolen Mills, North Vassalboro, Me. Walworth Bros., Lawrence, Mass.; Wanskuck Co., Providence, R. I.; Warren Woolen Co., Stafford Springs, Conn.; Warrenton Woolen Co., Torrington, Conn.; Washington Mills, Lawrence, Mass.; Waterhouse & Howard, North Adams, Mass.; Waterloo Woolen Manufacturing Co., Waterloo, N. Y.; Waucantuck Mills, Uxbridge, Mass.; Waverly Woolen Co., Pittsfield, Me.; Webster Woolen Co., Sabattus, Me.; Western Worsted Mills, Milwaukee, Wis.; Woolen Manufacturing Co., Beaver Dam, Wis.; Wood Worsted Mill, Lawrence, Mass.; Worcester Woolen Mill Co., Worcester, Mass. Yale Woolen Mills, Yale, Mich. ; Yorkshire Worsted Mills, Lenni, Pa. COMPENSATORY DUTIES. The specific duties now levied on manufactures of wool are intended to compensate the American manufacturer for the enhancement in Erice 01 his raw material attributable to the duty on grease wool, a fixing the amount of this compensation it was assumed that 4 pounds of grease wool went into the making of a pound of cloth, and that three-fourths of the height of the manufacturer's raw material was irrecoverably lost. In a former section of this report has already been discussed the loss that occurs in the scouring process. It remains to point out the range of weight losses that occur in turning scoured wool into finished cloth. That these losses have a considerable range of variation not only from mill to mill, but also from time to time m the same mill, is due to three things. First, scoured wool varies somewhat both as to staple and as to its content of foreign matter, such as burs and seeds, that the scouring process does not remove. Second, the wastes made in successive processes vary both with the skill and efficiency of men and machmes, and also with the business poUcy of the management. Some mills aiming at bulk and rapidity of production make more wastes than others that study economy of material rather than increase of output. That is, there may be more profit in saving labor cost than in saving material. In the third place, yarns or cloths of the same designation and descrip- tion may differ widely in finish and excellence; and, as a rule, the higher the finish the severer have been the processes and the greater the loss of fiber. For example, to make 100 pounds of clom of a 622 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOBT OF TABIFF fiOABD ON SCHEDULE K. certain name and description one manufacturer might use 110 pounds of yarn, while another would require 120 pounds. The cloth of the first maker would lack the perfection of finisli shown by that of the second; and the higher pnce of the better cloth should normally compensate for the greater quantity of material consumed. Tops are the first intermediary product between scoured wool and worsted cloth. The weight of a lot of tops varies normally between 80 per cent and 90 per cent of the weigtt of scoured wool used to make it. An output in tops of less than 80 per cent means that either the materials used or the methods applied are unusual; wldle an output of more than 90 per cent indicates rare skill and efficiency in the mill, together with a fortunate selection of wool. By far the greater part of the loss in weight is recovered in the form of noils, a much smaller part takes the form of card waste and comb waste; but the exact proportion of the noils to the other wastes varies some- what with the character of the wool and the method of combing. In the following table the figures in the first column are those of a typical spinning mill that turns out mainly the lower counts of vam; those of the second column are for a mill making the higher counts; and those of the tliird column are for a well-equipped worsted cloth mill that makes its own yam. Top and noil production from greasy wool in three typical mills. Scoured wool pounds.. Tops do...- Noils do Card and oomb wasta ' do nX/.::::;:;::;:;::;;;..;.;.;:;:::;;..;;;.;;.:;::-^^^^^^ Card and comb waste do MiUNo. 1. 6,860,629 6,759,701 1,001,350 99,279 83.95 14.60 1.45 MIUNo.2. MaiNo.3. 5,529,144 4,851,690 612, 776 64,678 87.75 11.08 1.17 2,462,0C9 2,123,123 181,374 157,572 86.24 7.36 6.40 It is apparent from this table that the average yield of tops over a considerable period ditfei*s in typical American mills by less than 5 per cent, and that the amount of this average yield is approximately 85 per cent. But a compensatory duty based on the average yield would be inadequate in the case of tops made from wool of fine quaUty; while, conversely, a compensatory duty high enough to take care of fine wool would be somewhat more than compensatory for tops made from the lower grades. This may be shown by the following comparison of the average yield of mill No. 1 above with the yield secured from different quahties of wool in the same mill. Scoured wool pounds. . Tops *^do Noils do.... Card and comb waste . . do Tom per cent. . Noils do. . . . Card and comb waste do Average yield of mill. 6,860,629 6, 769, 701 1,001,350 09.279 83.95 14.60 1.45 Yield from wool counts, 64s- 70s. Brad- ford system. 440,506 350,891 82,022 7.593 79.66 18.62 1.72 Yield from wool count, 60s. Brad- ford system. 736,268 694,605 132,021 9,642 80.76 17.94 1.30 Yield from wool count, 56s. Brad- ford system. Yield from wool count, 60s. Brad- ford system. 654,051 659,697 84,788 9,566 85.57 12.97 1.46 749,608 664,719 79,844 6,046 88.68 10.66 .67 fi *4 \ \\ 623 Whatever may be the yield of scoured wool in tops, that part of it that is unfit for tops is by no means a complete loss to the manufac- turer. Noils are worth quite regularly 60 per cent of the value of the scoured wool from which they are made, and they form from 60 per cent to 90 per cent of the wastes that accrue in top making. Comb waste is worth practically as much as scoured wool; card waste, as a rule, much less; the two together, forming from 5 per cent to 30 per cent of the total waste, should normally bring 40 per cent of the price of an equal weight of scoured wool. In any case the manufacturer recovers in the value of his wastes fully half the value of the scoured wool consumed that does not appear in his tops. Assuming then that 100 pounds of fine wool gives 80 pounds of tops, the loss of 20 pounds reappears in the form of waste worth at least as much as 10 pounds of wool. The manufacturer therefore in this case is entitled to a compensatory duty on tops that exceeds the duty on wool by no more than 10 per cent of such duty. This is of course on the assumption that the compensatory duty shall be fixed entirely on a weight basis. In the manufacture of worsted yam, the next process after combing occurs in the drawing room, where, after gilling and drawing, the top reappears as roving. The weight of the roving varies between 95 per cent and 98 per cent of the weight of the tops. The loss in weight is almost but not quite accounted for in the weight of the slubbmg and roving wastes, and these soft wastes, if still undyed, are worth approximately as much as tops and more than an equal weight of the scoured wool from which they are made. A fair compensatory duty on rovmg would therefore be almost imperceptibly higher than on tops. In the transition from roving to finished yarn the material goes through the processes of spinning, twisting, winding, and spoofing, and in each of these losses of fiber are involved. Small particles are rubbed away by friction, bits of fiber and of yam are broken off by the strain of drawing and twisting, and a part of the loss consists of an intangible waste due to loss of moisture that is never recovered in any form. Such invisible waste is seldom less than 2 per cent of the weight of the tops. An additional waste of about 2 J per cent is recovered. It consists of the fluffy particles adhering to spindles and other machinery, of small broken ends of hard thread, and similar materials. These wastes are worth less than half as much as an equal weight of scoured wool. If, then, we assume that, estimated on the weight of tops, soft wastes made m drawing and spinning equal 4 per cent, hard wastes in twistmg, etc., equal 2i per cent, and invisible wastes and shrinkage m aU processes equal 2 J per cent, the yield of yam from tops will equal 91 per cent. ^ ^ These figures are borne out by the actual results shown in mill records. One successful American miU for the year 1910, using mainly fine Australian wool of quahties 60s. to 70s., made from 1,543,852 pounds of tops 1,440,128 pounds of yarn of average count 42s. This gives a yield of yarn from tops of 93.28 per cent. This miU estimates Its average yield of yarn from tops year by year at approximately 92 per cent. Another successful mill, having a yam output in 1910 of 2,696^88 pounds of average counts 20s., found its average yield of yarn from tops to be 90 per cent. Agents of the Tariff Board secured 624 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDITLE K. from the books of different mills 50 estimates of the yield of 2-ply yam from tops. The highest jdeld thus shown was 97.1 per cent, which was very abnormal; the lowest was 86.58 per cent, which was likewise abnormal. Thirty-seven of the estimates showed a yield between 88 per cent and 93 per cent, 10 showed a yield slightly in excess of 93 per cent, and 3 showed a yield slightly under 88 per cent. It appears, then, that the average yield of 100 pounds of tops is at least 91 pounds or yam; 4 pounds of soft wastes and 2| pounds of hard wastes are made, and 2^ pounds disappear as invisible waste or slirinkage. But since his soft wastes are worth 90 per cent as much as tops and his hard wastes 40 per cent as much as tops, the manu- facturer recovers in their value half of the difference of 9 pounds be- tween tops and yam. It follows that in such a case a compensatory dutyon yarn higher than that on tops by 4J per cent of the compen- satory top duty would be adequate. It should be noted, however, that such a rate would not be quite compensatory in the case of a lower yield, while it would be slightly more than compensatory when there is a greater yield. It should be further noted that the value of the wastes is reduced by nearly a half in the case of yam made from dyed tops. Thus in the case of a yield of 88 per cent of colored yam from dyed tops a compensatory duty on yam higher than that on tops by 8 per cent of such duty would not be more than adequate. The compensatory duty rcMquired on woolen yam is less than that on worsted yam. The intermediate product known as tops does not arise in the manufacture of woolen yam; the wool passes direct from the cards to the spinning room. There are losses of fiber in the form of flyings, sweepings, strippings, and bur waste, and the small amount of waste made in spinning. In the transition from yam to cloth there is a wider range of losses in weight of material than in any other stage of manufacture. These losses may be grouped as foUows: 1. Waste made m preparatory processes. In spooling, winding, twisting, and warping the yam, preparatory to weaving, Siort pieces are broken off, whicn may be subsequently reduced to gametted waste. 2. Weaving-room wastes. These consist of the first and last ends of the warp and of the weft yam left on the bobbins after the piece is finished. The proportion of these to the whole weight varies, of course, with the length of the piece. Another weaving-room waste consists of cloth headings, bands a few inches wide and the full width of the warp, which are cut from both ends of each piece when more than one piece is woven on the same warp. 3. Finishing wastes. These consist of the very short particles that come off in the washing, fulling, napping, and shearing processes. They account for the greater part of tne loss in weight of material in many fabrics and are the least valuable of the wastes. 4. Yam remnants. These are the excess quantities of yams over the exact amounts required to make a certain quantity of cloth. No manufacturer can tell precisely how much yam will be needed to fill an order for a certain kind of cloth. If his estimate falls short of the amount required, he has to procure a second supply, and there is a strong probability that the character of this addition will differ sufficiently from bis first supply to show in the cloth. It is necessary, therefore, for him to have on hand rather more than he thinks will REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 625 li4 be needed to fill his order, which results in an excess. In staple piece-dyed goods this is an unimportant consideration, as nearly all such excess is usable at its first value; but in fancy goods made of many colors the loss from this cause is a considerable item. The amount of all these wastes and their recoverable value differ greatly for different kinds of fabrics. Staple worsted goods woven from undyed yams produce the least waste, fancy yarn-dyed worsteds produce more, and certain highly finished woolen fabrics show the greatest loss in weight. Some varieties of worsteds weigh within 6 per cent of the weight of the yarn that went into them, while some highly finished broadcloths, velours, and overcoatings fall short of the weight of the yarn by more than 25 per cent. The average loss would probably lie between 12 and 15 per cent. Agents of the Tariff Board secured estimates based on mill records of the cloth made from 1,000 pounds of yam in the case of 55 worsted and 40 woolen fabrics. The result may be tabulated as follows: Yield of cloth from yarn. 95 per cent and over 90 per cent to 95 per cent. . , 85 per cent to 90 per cent. . . 80 per cent to 85 per cent. . . 75 per cent to 80 per cent. . . Under 75 per cent Worsted fabrics. 6 18 26 4 Woolen fabrics. 12 7 6 6 55 The total recoverable value of the wastes in a weaving mill is difli- cult to estimate, for the reason that the wastes differ in value and the proportion of the amount of each to that of all the others varies with the different fabrics. The wastes enumerated above under groups 1 and 2 are worth approximately 20 per cent of the value of the yarn from which they are made. Yarn remnants are sold or utihzed at from 10 per cent to 100 per cent of their cost. The finishing waste IS nearly worthless; some of it is salable at 2 per cent or 3 per cent of the value of the yam, much has to be carted away as dirt. Taken altogether it appears that the recoverable value of weaving-mill wastes would not be more than 15 per cent nor less than 5 per cent, with a probable average of 10 per cent, of the value of the yam from which they were made. If, then, it is desired to compensate the manufacturer of the heaviest slirinlang woolen fabrics mentioned above, the compensatorv dutv must be as much as 20 per cent of the compensatory duty on varn higher than that duty. On the other hand, there are certain fabrics for which a fair compensatory duty would exceed the compensatorv yam duty by less than 5 per cent. ^ If it is assumed that the purpose of compensatory duties is to make good the waste of fiber that arises in turning out products involving the greatest loss, the foUowing examples woiSd illustrate the workini of the prmciples set forth above: If the duty on the scoured content of wool is $0.15 a pound— '^^ i^P^^^^'*'*y ^^^y "^"^ *^P« ®<1^^ ^-15 Pl^s 10 per cent of $0.15 equals '^^ compensatory duty on yarn equals $0.1650 plus 8 per cent of $0.1650 equals ♦0.1782. ^^ compenaatory duty on cloth equals $0.1782 plus 20 per cent of $0.1782 equals 626 BEPOET OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Ill If the duty on the ecoured content of wool is 10.18 a pound — The compensatory duty on tops equals $0.18 plus 10 per cent of 10.18 equals $0.1980. The compensatory duty on yam equals $0 J980 plus 8 per cent of $0.1980 equals $0.2loo. The compensatory duty on cloth equals $0.2138 plus 20 per cent of $0.2138 equals $0.2566. If the duty on the scoured content of wool is $0.19 a pound — The compensatory duty on tops equals $0.19 plus 10 per cent of $0.19 equals $0.2090. ^ The compenflatory duty on yam equals $0.2090 plus 8 per cent of $0.2090 equals $0.2257. The compensatory duty on cloth equals $0.2257 plus 20 per cent of $0.2257 equals $0.2708. If the duty on the scoured content of wool is $0.20 a pound — The compensatory duty on tops equals $0.20 plus 10 per cent of $0.20 equals $0.22. ^ The compensatory duty on yam equals $0.22 plus 8 per cent of $0.22 equals $0.2376. The compensatory duty on cloth equals $0.2376 plus 20 per cent of $0.2376 equals $0.2851. If the duty on the scoured content of wool is $0.25 a pound — The compensatory duty on tops equals $0.25 plus 10 per cent of $0.25 equals $0.2750. ^ The compensatory duty on yam equals $0.2750 plus 8 per cent of $0.2750 equals $0.2970. ^ The compensatory duty on cloth equals $0.2970 plus 20 per cent of $0.2970 equals vO««j5o4. What has been said above apphes to fabrics made wholly of wool. Much cloth, however, is designated as woolen or worsted that contains other paaterials than wool. To fix a fair compensatory duty on such cloth is a matter of difficulty, by reason of the varymg proportions of the elements that compose it and the impossibility of ascertaining that proportion. Goods made with a cotton warp and wool weft mav be easily recognized and rated ; but it frequently happens that both warp and weft contain more or less of cheaper materials. There are, of course, well known and simple tests for discovering the cot- ton content of a fabric, but their appfication to imported cloths im the custom house would involve considerable difficulties. Moreover, there is no test known that will disclose the proportion of noils, shoddy, mungo, etc., to new wool in many varieties of fabrics. Diffi- culties of this kind, however, could be partly overcome by graduating the compensatory duty according to the value of the fabric. METHOD OF INQUIBY INTO OOfiT OF MANUFACTUBE. The problem which confronted the Tariff Board at the outset of the inquiry into the cost of manufacturing in the woolen and worsted mdustrv was how to find some method of arriving at the cost of any particular article, in view of the fact that each mill turns out such a great variety of products. The difficulty can perhaps be best under- stood by comparing this inquiry with that on the pulp and paper mdustry regarding which the board made a report m May of this year. In the case of news print paper there is a standard product pro- duced in a practically uniform quality by all mills and, to a very large extent, constituting the sole product of the mill. The problem then reduced itself to getting the actual cost expenditures for a given period and the actual total output of the mill in tons. Whatever BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 627 w I analysis might be made of the expenditures by processes or accord- ing to the different elements of cost, the total cost per ton could always be secured by dividing the total cost by total product. K a worsted mill, for example, always made simply one kmd of cloth of exactly the same construction, pattern, and finish, the cost of that particular cloth could be secured at that mill in the same way. It is, however, impossible to say anything about the cost of cloth per yard without specifically and carefully defining the exact nature of the cloth. There are no absolute standards in the cloth trade, and each mill turns out a great variety of different fabrics; and to divide the total cost of the year by the total number of yards would of course give no result of any value. It would not be the cost of any particular cloth but the average cost of the great variety of cloths, and this would be utterly incomparable with any other mill unless it made exactly the same varieties in exactly the same proportions, which, of course, never occurs. The question then arose whether or not it would be possible to get results by a study of processes, so that some defini.te expression might be made as to the cost of each process in manufacturing, from the wool to the finished cloth. In preliminary lines of manufacture this was found to be possible in a certain measure. For example, in the case of the manufacture of tops it was possible to get actual figures per pound of tops on the defimte processes of sorting, scouring, card- ing, and combing. The trouble, nowever, is that tops vary greatly in quality and that costs vary according to the quality. In no estab- lishment is a single quality of tops produced. The result is that a statement of costs based on total output might be misleading, since it would not represent any actual grade produced. The quality of the tops depends upon the quality of the wool of which it is made. The speed of the machinery has to be adjusted to the quality of the wool fiber and the variations in combing costs per pound depend largely upon the speed of the comb and the consequent output. Experience has shown, roughly at least, the relative output for different grades of wool and the manufacturer can determine m some degree what proportion of his cost is properly to be apportioned to each grade of tops produced. The same is also true of worsted yarns. It is true that no mill Produces a single kind of yarn, and consequently an average cost ased upon total output in pounds and total expenses would be of less value than an exact cost for yarn of a single count. The spin- ner, however, like the comber, has learned from experience a fairly accurate method of prorating his expenses to the diSerent grades of yarn spun. Some of the difficulties in determining the cost of yam produced will be explamed more fully below, where that subject is discussed. It may be merely said here that the two main causes of variation in, say, two-ply worsted yarn are, first, the quahty of the wool or tops from which it is made; secondly, the size or count of the yam. The finer the yarn is spun— that is, the higher the count— the greater the cost. The reason, of course, is that the production, in pounds, in a given time diminishes as the size of the yam diminishes. Here, again, the manufacturer has been able to learn from experience in what proportion the production falls off and the labor cost increases with this variation m size, and he can consequently prorate his 628 EBPOET OP TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. \ L,aocra4«^ labor and other charges with some degree of accuracy, according to the variation in counts. ^ ' «u.t^iumg lo It IS therefore possible to take the actual cost of a product for a given penod according to the particular quality of yamf and therebv amve at a conclusion regarding the cost of a specific product in each separate process of drawing, spinning, twisting, spoolmff. reelincr etc Consequently this method was adopted, where possibleTand comlJined witu other methods, as explained more fully in the section on yarns Records were secured by members of the boara or by its agents' taken actual y from the books, on worsted-yam spinnrng for certain companies, showing range of counts produced, total actual expendi- tures by processes, general-expense schedules, etc. In the case of woolen and worsted cloths it became clear that no such method was possible. There are not standard grades of cloth as there are of yam, and to compare the total cost with total output of a imU would be utterly meaningless. Certain results were secured as to the weavmg cost by takmg the total weaver's wages for a given period and comparmg them with the total number of mcks woven in the total output for the same period. This gave a weaving cost per pick but dirf not cover the essential facts alto the cost^any par- ocular fabric. Obviously any general average as to mending and burling, wet or dry fimshmg, dyeing, etc, would have meant nothing at all, as the cost of these processes depends entirely upon the char- acter of the specific cloth manufactured. ^ The only method available was to start with certam specific cloths and get the most accurate estimates possible from a number of different mills on the cost of making goods of this quality. The difficulty here lay m the weU-known fact that estimated on the same sample by different manufacturers may vary very widely, and expe- rience m th^ regard by associations in the trade who have attempted to amve at some standard cost method showed the necessity for ^d^f ah?arp^^^^^ ^ "^""^^ ^^""^ ^^"^ ^ ^^^^^< ^^^^^' In the first place, the question of raw material waa eliminated aUogether, smce th^ is such a fluctuating element, and an arbitrary pnce waa assumed for different quahtiea of wool and yam. this arbi- trary price bemg the actual price so far as it could be accurately deter- mined for a given date. Schedules were then carefuUy prepared pro- viding for a detailed analysis of the cost of a given fabric according to each separate process of yarn dyemg, warp sizing, spoofing, windfng doubhng and twistmg, dressing, weaving, Surfing, mending, remend- ing, speckmg, etc., wet finishmg, niece dyeingT dry finifhing, and ^I^^^Wk J"^^"! ?^^' P^r? *^® expenses were divided into direct labor and '*indu-ect labor" and " department materials." lo these was added a ' 'general expense" schedule covering aU over- head and fixed charges for a period of 12 months. The total wages were also entered for the same period and the mle established that general exnenae ^ould be prorated according to the amount ot pro- ductive labor. This method, although not uniformly adopted in the trade, is recogmzed as fan- and equitable, and it was nece^ar>r to have a common basis for the distribution of the general expense so that the returns from the mills should be comparable in this regard. \ \ Ueiit Ha Ik EEPOBT OP TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE Ollumbta l©flt©rsltTr Our agents then visited the mills with specific samples and worked' out with the proper officials the cost under each separate process. In practically all cases they were given complete access to the hooka in order to see by what method particular charges were made, and to satisfy themselves that the estimated costs entered were based upon the actual costs at the mill. By this detailed analysis by processes the estimates came as near to the actual costs as the mifl itself was able to make them. It should be home in mind that the method here adopted is the method of the manufacturer himself when he wishes to find the cost of any fabric. That is, he submits it to his designei:, who figures out what it will cost to make it in his mill, and on these figures he takes orders. On this basis he sends out samples of designs or fabrics to soHcit business at a price fixed by costs ascertained in precisely this way. In aU cases we secured the cost of production at the mill actually producing the sample as shown by its own records on that particular cut of cloth. These schedules when brought to the office were very carefully scmtinized in each detail and wherever discrepancies appeared, or charges which seemed inaccurate, the matter was taken up by cor- respondence, and if an understanding was not reached in this way the agent was sent back to the mill to go over the matter again. In the cases where the data were insufficient to meet the requirements of the investigation, or were obviously abnormal in character, these were disregarded entu-ely by the board in making the final computations. ihe general-expense" schedules were carefully edited^ to bring them to a common basis and to efiminate all items not properly chargeable to costs. In all cases the item of '^interest on capital^' was ehmmated as not being properly so chargeable. The item of depreciation was naturally a very variable one. and an allowance was made of 2 J per cent on buildings and 7 per cent on equipment, mcludmg obsoletion. The question of a fair valuation of the miU could, m many cases, not be determined accurately, and in such cases it was necessary to assume a certain standard valua- tion based on the number of cards, looms, etc. As a matter of fact, the allowance for depreciation made by the board was, in general shghtly m excess of that actuafiy charged; but the practices ol the mills regardmg depreciation are, at the best, as crude as they are varied. In any case, such discrepancies as would appear ik clSr"" ""^^ ^"^ ""^^ inconsiderable item per yard of Returns were also received from many miUs giving the total out- Llff. /? ^^ ^"^^^^ number of picks woven during the year, in If f L ! !;;T^' '^ P^ -f ^^^' ^M ^7^^^^^ iabor cost pir wovin pick. m«fL wL? time similar schedules were prepared^on which esti- mates were secured for the manufacture of yarn in a given sample Thpii^'w^' "^"^ i "^^^^"^ ^^^>^' ^^^ *^« manufacture oflo^s asTeU! These were made out accordmg to the same method as to giving 11k? ^^P^f ^^«^S' a^d the general expense schedule for the whofi vtn. I "^^""i- ^n "^^^ ^^^ prorating overhead charges on tops and yarns accordmg to productive labor. These schedules, however were supplementary to the actual production figures XX reTei^^ to, and are explained more fully in the section Bn yam^!^ ^ 680 BEPOBT OF TAMFF BOABD OW SOHEDTJM: K. THE SECimiNO OF FOBEION COSTS. The method adopted in securing foreign costs on American samples was similar to that used in this country. Samples of identical fab- rics cut from the same piece were taken to England and to the Con- tinent. These were shown to a number of manufacturers and their estimates on the cost of production secured, but not in the same detail as in American mills, because foreign manufacturers do not keep their costs in any such detail. In England the costings on these samples are given with the authority of a cloth expert, himself a manufacturer, who took the Enghsh estimates secured and corrected or verified them from his own experience or from the costs in his own mill. They are beheved to bo bedrock figures, and were calculated on the basis of mills of hierh efiiciency, using, whenever the construction of a fabric permitted, hi^-speed looms. The Enghsh costs correspond closelv with French costs on the same samples obtained through other channels entirely. The weav- ing rates on samples were obtained in France through still other channels than were the cost-of-production figures, which also show weaving rates on the individual sample. These were checked against each otner and against the Enghsh weaving rates on the high-speed looms, with results most reassuring as to the substantial accuracy of both. German costs were secured on similar cloths. In no case did a German manufacturer figure on the cost x>f producing an American fabric. What they did was to select cloths made l)y themselves which, from the loom analysis submitted, came very near the sample fabric, and their costs were secured in such detail as then- methods of bookkeeping permitted. The weavers' rates upon each of the American sample fabrics were secured in the cloth centers of Germany, France, and Belgium from weavers who were making similar cloths at the loom, or from the rate commissioner who in conference arrange between employer and employee what the weaving rate on cloths shall be. The actual weavers' scales were secured from various sources, sometimes from establishments' scales, sometimes from district wage agreements signed by representatives of organizations. In every ca^e, rates were as thoroughly verified as possible by checking up one source of information agSnst another. In the case of German goods, sample cloths were secured from the mill making them: and costs were taKen from their books, including the weavers rate on the identical bolt from which the sample was cut. The loom analyses of these fabrics were secured, and the samples brought to the Umted States and submitted for costings to Ameri- can nulls. The difficulties in the wav of securing accurate data on identical fabrics, or of knowuig whether two fabrics are sufficiently similar to Sermit of comparison, has already been mentioned. Tins, however, oes not apply so severelv to the single element of weaving rate, ana the weaving rate is the i)est and safest gauge of conversion costs; hence the board has paid especial attention to this element. Since costs vaiy widely from mill to mill, any single figure as to the cost of a fabric must be taken with caution. The essential thmg, however, for this inquiry is the ratio of foreign to home cost*. The I I % \ EEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 631 very large amount of domestic and foreign cost data received from so many different and independent sources by different agents check so closely with each other that the board feels that this essential point of the ratio has been accurately determined. THE SCHEDULES USED. Copies of the schedules used are herewith submitted, so that the true nature of the investigation may be understood. (Confidential. Identification No J The Tariff Board, woolen and worsted industry. Schedule 1. — Gerieral information. 1. Name and address of firm or corporation 2. Name and location of mill V/^......V.V.V....V^. 3. Number of persons employed when mill is running fiiil 4. Equipment of mill: a. Number of sets of cards 6. Number of combs ...-........'. c. Number of spindles ...V "..... .... V" '. d. Number of looms: Broad , narrow. .......[.... 5. Have you made cloth of same construction? 6. Have you made cloth of similar construction? Remarks: Data secured ,191 Representative. The undersigned certifies that the figures and data given on the accompanying sheeia (marked Schedules 1, 2, 3, 4 5 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11) are taken from thVhLkTS accounting of the above-named firm, in so far as they appear thereon, and are accurate and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief. «*^^uraM3 (OflScial position with the company or firm.) Schedule 2. — Top making. A. COST OF STOCK ENTERING MANUFACTURE OF 1,000 POUNDS OF TOPS. Raw wool: Other stock: Pounds. Price per pound. Gross total Less credit noilslq,^. , Less credit waste/ °''^*- Net totaL. Date. Total cost. Cost per pound of tops. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 2 632 REPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHBDUU: K, Schedule 2,— Top malnngp— Continued. B. CONVERSION COST OF 1,000 POUNDS OF TOPS. I Pounds of mate- rial en- tering each process. Produc- tive or direct labor.* Nonpro- ductive or indi- rect labor.' Depart- ment ma- terials.* Total cost. Cost per I)onna of tops. Sorting and blending Scouri ng Carding Combing Dyeing Generai expense * 1 ; ■*:::::::j::::::::"i""""-- ! ' '.:'.'.::'.'/.'. Total conversion cost ; 1 1 1 Cost of stock I Total mannfacturing cost '1 1 Actual labor appUed directly to stock In Ita conversion. Including proportion of wages paid to second 'T^d??^t^yat;T„.X°S1n'd"eSSSe'2l^^Sl|g^^^^^^^ foremen, carriers, etc.. but not toCndlng •■^^lell-als-ofifeVtir r^-Si^f rd?.SS^r?«^ -urlng, oU for olUng sU.K dy« and chemicals for dyeing, etc. * See general expense schedule. Eemarke: Schedule ^. ^Worsted yam spinning {1,000 pounds). No. A. COST OF STOCK. Pounds tops required for manufacture of 1,000 pounds yam. ...... Price of tope (if purchased) per pound at » -l^ a^ ■ Coet of tops per pound (if made at epmnmg mill) Total C08t of tops. B. CONVERSION COST. Drawing Spinning Twisting Reeling Spooling Warping General expense ♦ Pounds of mate- rial en- tering each process. Produc- tive or direct labor.* Nonpro* ductive or Indi- rect labor.' Depart- ment ma- terials.' Total cost. Total conversion cost. Cost of stock Leas credit waste Net manuf^turlng cost. Cost per pound of yam. 1 Actual labor appUed directly to stock In It. conversion, Including proportion of wages paid to second •Titl^^^t^rerprrX^d^eMfS^^^^ — ers, etc.. but not Including dyes, and chemicals for dyeing, etc. « See general expense schedule. BEPOET OP TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, ScHEDULB 4. — Worsted cloth making (1,000 yards). A. GENERAL. Dat« of calculation Length of goods finished Name of cloth Width of goods finished Number of warp ends to 1 inch Net total take-up Number of picks to 1 inch Pounds of cloth to 1,000 poimda Width in reed of yam Length of warp Weight of cloth per yard Length of cloth woven Pounds of cloth to 1,000. yards . Length of take-up B. COST OF STOCK. 638 Kind of yurn. Plain, mixed, or colored. Count of yam. Pounds. Cost or price of yarn per pound.* Total cost. Cost per yard cloth. Warp: ends.. ends.. ends.. ends.. Waste.. % Waste.. % ends.. Weft: picks.. picks.. picks.. picks. . ........ picks. . Total stock 1 L... 1 i?*ZfdS?wKn nn'f.T.^^^^ °' 5^' *' ""^^^^^ ^^^ °^ ^^- ^^ 3^ Is purchased, give price of C. CONVERSION COST. yam and date when purchased. ■ Produc- tive or direct labor. * Nonpro- ductive or indirect labor. * Depart- ment mar terials.* Total cost for yards. Cost per ysffd. Yarn dyeing Warp siting ] Spooling winding Doubling and twisting Dressing ( including drawing-in) .'.".' Weaving (weaver's rate at per ) Burling f. ' Mend ine Remendinp, specking, etc ..""'.'.!.".'" .' Wet finishmg '[[ Piece dyeing '.'.'..'.'.'.'.......'.. Dry finishing and inspecting (cosrofputtin«*up and selling expense not mcluded) General expense * "[ Total conversion cost Cost of stock Less credit waste Net manufacturing cost 1 1 ^^^fs\ iite«f dI?hXrPd"Sdt»er"iis^r'' '^'^^^' ^'"- ""' -' '-"■''^ d;if^d"cfei'at°d|e1SB, r." "' "'P"'™'": '« eiampl^^soap- (or scouring, .a for .Uing stock. * See general expense schedule. 634 EEPOET OP TABIFF BOARD ON BCHBDUIiB K. Schedule 5. — Woolen yam making (1,000 pounds), No. A. COST OF STOCK. Pounds. Price per pound. Bate. Total cost. Cost per pound of yam. Wool: Noils Shoddv Other stock: 1 Total Less credit waste 1 Not cost 1 i B. COST OF CONVERSION. Pounds of mate- rial enter- ing each process. Produc- tive or direct labor. » Nonpro- ductive or indirect labor.* Depart- mentma- terials.* Total cost. Cost per pound of yam. Sortinj; . . Scouring .*. Stock dyeing Mixing and Dickine '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. Carding Sninnine Doubling TwisttUE Rnooliiie General exnense * Total conversion cost Cost of stock Total manufacturinE cost 1 Actual labor applied directly to stock in its conversion, including proportion of wages paid to second hands and subforenien properly chargeable to each department. * Indirect labor employed in department, including overseers, foremen, carriers, etc., but not Including general and repair labor, which are provided for under general expense. » Materials other than stock used in department; for example, soap for scouring, oil for oiling stock, dyes and chemicals for dyeing, etc. * See general expense schedule. jtv dimr .Ks .•.•.••••.»••••.••.••»•■•••••••••••••••••••••••-••••-•-•••••-•••-•"••• BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Schedule 6. —Woolen cloth making (1,000 yards). A. GENERAL. w^^?I^S!"!!T: unfS^fSi'^r?--;,-^- Number of warp -ends -to i SX&S!:: men.. . Net total take-up ™Tnt?f ^ *^ ' ^^^' Poiind^fcIoth^i;6i)b*poundB lln^Sof^nS weipL of cloth pervard::::*" Length of cloth woven Pounds of cloth to i:000 yards! B. COST OF STOCK. 635 Kind of yam. Werp: ..ends., -ends., .ends., .ends. . Plain, mixed, or col- ored. No. yam. .ends. Weft: -picks., .picks., .picks., -picks.. -picks.. Waste.". % Poimds. Cost or price ol yam per pound. 1 Waste-. % Total stock. Total cost. Cost per yard cloth. » Give actual cost of manufacture of yam if maWnir u-n and date wh«n mimho^.-* * •''""' " "*a*™g yarn and date when purchased. your own yam. If yam is purchased, give price of C. CONVERSION COST. Yarn dyeing... pouhling and twisting.!' Spooling '^ Winding Dressing (including drawing "iiiY Warp sizing '' Weaving (weaver's rate at -^^" iieVim^ ■Burlmg ^ ' Mending Remendine, speaking; 'et^.::::::: Wet finishtag Piece dyeing. . ^^SS^^^^S^^' oipuVting- „p- az,a General expense < _[ « . Total conversion cost . . Cost of stock ....."!.'.'.' liess credit waste Net manufacturing cost Produc- tive or direct labor.i Non- produc- tive or indirect labor.* Depart- ment ma- terials.3 Total cost for yards. Cost per yard. 636 BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHBDTJIiB K. Sgheditlb 7. — General expenm, Noii:.-All items of expense are to be given for mill property only, not including tenements. A. WORKS EXPENSE. L Administrative expense chargeable to manulacture: a. Salaries, executive.... •' b. Salaries, clerical c. Salaries, superintendence 2 *r ^n i • ' 2. Designing' and pattern making - • - - - ,,- - - ■; v " ;; 8 oSoral labor-engineer, firemen, warebousfflnen, yard, and watch, etc........ .. t l^Uaneous operating expenses, such as office supplies, telegrams, sundries: Total S. Fuel: Coal Wood Other..... ..,,.......•. Total B. Power and light purchased from outside.. 7. Water purchased. 8. Repairs and maintenance: Materials Labor 1E i Total. ...............•.•.••-■ 9. Accident or Viability insurance 10. Hauling and stable (current expense) . . . . 11. Other expenses: Total works expense (1 to 11). B. FIXED CHARGES. 1. Insurance: I Fire Other. Total a. Taxes on mill property Business or corporation taxes 8. I*«P^gjf^, ^t o, niiU buildings (not including land) t Annual depreciation rate , —^ P«f cent. Amount of annual depreciation of Duudlngs • If. Original cost of machinery and equipment • Annual denreciation rate. per cent. AZunt of SSi depreijiation £d obsoletion of machinery and equip- ment • Total depreciation Total fixed charges (1 to 3). ...■•--■ Total general exjjenses (A plus B). Total amount paid out in wages during the fiscal year ending 19— ,1 Give the wages for the busiest year during the last five years. Eemarks: BEPOBT OP TABIPF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Schedule 8.— Pay roll, year ending jTW— . 637 Departments. Wages paid for — Sorting and blending Scouring .'. . Mixing and picking .'li;.;; • Carding.... . * Combing Dyeing Spinning Twisting ." Doubling and twisting... Reeling and winding :.;::::::;:: Spooling Epmining and packing yarns.".".' Warping . Warp sizing Dressing (including drawing-in); vVeaving... Burling ;.;; Mending Remending^sp^ckin'g/etc ;.*:::::::::: Wet finishing.. Dry finishing and insiiecti"ni"("e"xdludi^"ia"bor"(;f puttiiig'up);:: Total Total nonproductive 'labor per" Schedule"? .' ] ." .' ." ." ".'.';;;;;.■ Produc- tive labor. Nonpro- ductive labor. Total labor. Depart- ment ma- teriala. Total wages. Schedule 9. —Total production, year ending -, 191~. A. YARN PRODUCED. 3. Quantity of yam produced ^ pounds 6. Quantity of yam purc'ha^"ed P"^^^^^ Remlrfa. "''°'^'' '^ ^'"^ Bpiilniig mill waa^in Operation dunK' period,- B. CLOTH PRODUCED YEAR ENDING , i9i_. Total number of hours weaving mill was in operation during the period i. Name of cloth. Size yarn in warp. Size yam in weft. Warp ends to inch at loom. '••••ti« . Number ,xr. ,,. of picks ^i^th to inch at loom. iKtllaai.a,, finished (inches). Weight per yard (ounces). Total yards pro- duced. 638 BEPOBT OF TABirF BOABD ON SCHEDUOl K. Schedule 10. — Equipment and maintenance. OperatioQ. eorting... Dusting.. Scouring. Dyeing.. Mixing and picking CaJding .. • •.« • - •••••••••••••••••••• • •• »...-•••■.•••••••••••••••• .. . . . .-..••••••••••••••••••- Spinning Doubling and twisting ».• ..•-. •••••••••••■"•*•■•••* Spooling Winding iJressing'and warp siiing . . . Weaving Wet and dry iinishing iiisceUaneous Nrm- ber ol ma- chities. Maker. Year built. ... . ^. . . How long in use. Coet in- stalled, includ- ing pul- leys, belting, and shafting. Cost of fixtures and mis- oellane- ous equip- ment. Repairs, mainte- nance, and sup- plies, year end. ing , 191—. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Schedule 11.— Equipment and Tnaintenance. 639 Operation. Sorting and blending. Dusting and scouring. Cardmg Combing .'." l[]" "["[[" [ ] .' ." ." ; ' " ' " " ' ' ; •- • •"-•-•----*---••----,,...,,,._ i^ye»°g *''-'•'''•-''•''•* ~ m ^ » m » m •» m . ^ ^ . ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ _ I>rawing Spinning;; ;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; Twisting ... ^ .!!..! 1 ."..."."'".'".""]' ' Reeling .... i .' * .' i ''!.'.'"."." " spi)i)iingv;:;:::::;:::;:;:::;;:;;; ;;; Warping.'.' .'.['" .' ." .' ; .' ; ; ' " ; " ■ ; ;;;;;;;; waip siz i'ng .' i 1 ;.' i ; 1 ."]] V ;;;;;;;;■■* ; wiidin^;::::;:::::;;:::::::::;::::;; Doubling and twisting .'." .' .[[[[[[[[[l i>r^ingv;:;::;::::;:;::::::;:::;::;; w^^;::::::::::::;::::::;; ;;; ;;; Wet and dry fliiis'liing \l ""[""[[" . Miscellaneous .. ..! 1 ..'.'[!.".'.' ' Num- ber of ma- chines. Maker. Year built. How long in use. Cost in- stalled, includ- ing pul- leys, belting, and shafting. Cost of fixtures and mis- cellane- ous equip- ment. Repairs, mainte- nance, and sup- plies, year end- ing , 191—. THE COST OF MAKING TOPS. trade. A top maker is properly a merchant and not a manufacturer ' SlH't;^? 'tT'^°°^ an(f sells tops to worsted spW^ He may have a plant of his own for combing tins wool, or he may have the actual combmg done on commission by somebody eke 640 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUO: K. If the term "top maker" be understood in this sense, it is obvi- ously impossible to make any statement as to the cost of top making. The expense of the top maker lies first in his office expenses, freight, selling expenses, etc. ^secondly, in the cost of sortmg the wool te depended uS Difficulties were, of course, encountered in such anZquirv but afapMe-tfe rtVi^;r|e\fcairS| produce is very si ght. Where a sn-eat vflrStJ^r>AT^ 7 wtuch they It is impossibli evin for the mUl1tsKhlr.(^t^L?°^\'' P^pd^^^d pivjner Lnortionment of expenses to ea^ttSec^ mUfs whici would operate uSder practic^VtKme cofitiom ani ^fT J -t l^® *^^?S^ *'''^*« ^SM, by employing dfffeMntm^l,«^= t/cuti"' m"^ '^'"'''^ chargesf show^a sli^SSn on a"ny p^^! wh?rr£"pi^o^dtf f "pt'&'l?fo^i\C'^"f - P^"'?,'!' -- 32080°-~H.Doc.342.62-2,vol2 3 646 RBPOBX OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. whole industry than this. It wiU be seen that the cost fluctuates OTcatly accorcling to the amount of output. The actual amount ot product is omitted to prevent identification of the establisliment, but the comparative amounts are expressed in terms of 1,000 units. It will be seen that for the week of August 26 the cost was 9i centa as compared with a cost of 26| cents for the week of August 5, the production for the two weeks being in the ratio ot 1,481 to 5Ub. Specimen weeMy cost s}i£eis. Week ending May 27. 1911 (yarn shipped. 1,000 units): Cents P^rm^M^ Cost of spinning ^./l^ Cost of drawing - - r.X.j Coetofwinding, twisting, Bpooling, etc "f^' Cost of fixed expenaee Average count for week, 20.93. .^^^ Week ending June 17, 1911 (yarn shipped, 1,339 units): Cost of spinning «2io Cost of drawing - - «,«« Cost of winding, twisting, spooling, etc "^^^ Cost of fixed expenses Average count for week, 19 .09. ^ ^^^ Week ending Au^. 5, 1911 (yam shipped, 506 units): ^^^ Cost of sninmng ;•;;•-; '^ggg Cost of drawing - ^.;»,« Cost of winding, twisting, epooling, etc "^^^ Cost of fixed expenses - ' Average count for week, 19.76. 2«^g Week ending Aug. 26, 1911 (yam shipped, 1,481 ^nits): ^^ Cost of spinning 0^^^ Cost of drawing........ :.••••; * "0069 Cost of winding, twisting, epooling, etc V^qy Cost of fixed expenses ____ Average count for week, 20. 69 ^eo NoTE.-Coet of winding, twisting, spooling, etc., is figured on total weekly pro- duction ASually only ai>out 30 per cent of the production i. ^^^"f^f. J^?^^:5vi?i Zoled^^ the cost on this 30 per cent would l)e three and one-S;:.;::;.;::;; hi" Do «^ Do -"ji^ Do --30 Do Do.... Do Do Do Do Yearly produc- tion, in pounds. Labor, not in- cluding spooling and reel- ing. Salaries, not in- cluding spooling and reel- ing. ...do. ..do. .-do. ..do. 2,433,600 2,340,000 2,260,800 2,181,600 2,109,600 2,044,800 1,972,800 2,217,600 2,138,400 2,073,600 2,001,600 1,936,800 1,872,000 1,828,800 1,915,200 1,850,400 1,792,800 1,728,000 1,677,600 1,634,400 Per lb. $0.06132 .06206 .06269 .06342 .own .06478 .06533 , .06810 .06381 .06448 .06524 .06598 .06685 .06732 .06624 .06705 .06780 .06872 .06950 .07018 Per lb. 80.00845 .00878 .00909 .00942 .00974 .01005 .01042 .00927 .00961 .00991 .01027 .01061 -01091 .01124 .01073 .01111 .01147 .01190 .01225 .01258 General ex- penses, not in- cluding spool- ing and reeling. Perm. JO. 02902 .03018 .03124 .03237 .03347 .03453 . 03579 .03184 .03302 .03405 .03528 .03646 .03772 .03861 .03687 .03816 .03939 .04087 .04209 .04321 cost of "making yarS grea^^carf sho^fJ'V^f ^'""^*' regarding the these variatioil Ld to'^^T.^^^ZiV^T.^.^^Zt^^^ 648 EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDITLE K. Basis. Even after making full allowance for these factors, mills may show differences of cost of production for exactly the same nominal count of 3'am from the same stock and made under the same condi- tions, not only because of difference in local advantage or skill of management, but because some mills may be making yarns used in special fabrics, which, although of nominally the same quality and size may nevertheless require for this particular purpose an unusual amount of additional care and a slower rate of production. It is well kno^vn, also, that the cost of making yarn from dyed tops is greater than when yam is spun in tlie gray, and an aaditional allowance should always be made in such cases. When we come to such specialties as so-called "hard-twisted" yarn, the expense is,' furthermore, greatly increased, both from the mcrease in waste and from the much smaller output in pounds for a given time. It is not necessary to attempt to go into>taiIs regardmg all these differ- ent factors or to consider a great varietv of counts, oinco most mills are equipped for twisting as well as spinning, we present figur-fes for two-ply yarn in the gray as representative of relative conditions of cost. The following tafele shows cost figures for the United States for a varietv of such yarns. They have been computed after a care- ful study of the results from a large number of mills, and the total figures for costs are doubtless lower than will be shown in many cases. On the other hand, certain mills will show lower figures on certain counts. The method adopted has been to prorate the general expense so far as possible to each separate process, including only in the item "general expense," as given in the table, such outlay as can not be properly charged to any one department. It is needless to say that the "general-expense" accounts from different mills have been edited to show only charges properly entering into costs, and interest has been deducted in all cases. The result is that these figures may be taken as presenting fairly the cost of production in well-equipped mills runnmg full time under efficient management. The costs would be higher whenever production is below normal. Cost per pound of converting tops into medium and high medium worsted yarns, as shown from records of efficient mills in the United States, on the basis of full-time production. riy and count of yarn. 2/28., .2/». 2/36. 2/38. 2/40. 2/42. 2/44. 2/46. 2/48. 2/60. Drawine 10.0322 .0388 .0255 $0.0357 .0436 .0306 .0212 .0136 10.0390 .0507 .0364 .0232 .0156 I0.O407 .0543 .0393 .0242 .OlM 10.0415 .0546 .0412 .0257 .0168 10.0423 80.0455 $0.0491 .0777 .0480 .0310 .0209 $0.0502 .0800 .0500 .0318 .0215 „„___ 10.0591 PniiiiiiTi(»- .0548 .0132 .0271 .0173 .0663 .0456 .0290 .0191 .1073 TwiatiiiEr . ... .0673 StJOoliTie and reeling .0179 .0118 .0544 GenerEl exDcnses .0300 Total coBversioa cost.... .1262 .1448 .1648 .1749 .1798 .1847 .2055 .2267 .2335 .3181 The following two tables analyze the above costs, by processes, into productive labor per pound and all expenses other than productive labor properly chargeaDle to any process, together with other expenses not ctajgeable to any particular department: til ' y !|» ill ...a'lmntto'rr" Kent fi BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. t€m.iBi-" ■■ ' :i.iver.sl;ty Prodwtive labor per pound. Wcw 10»k [Mm running full.] Drawing Spinning Twisting Spooling and reeling Total productive labor I>er pound Ply and count of yam. 2/28. $0. 0170 .0146 .0142 .0132 .0590 2/32. $0.0182 .0171 .0171 .0154 .0678 2/36. $0.0199 .0199 .0208 .0167 .0773 2/38. $0.0208 .0213 .0226 .0174 .0821 2/40. 2/42. $0.0212 .0214 .0234 .0183 .0843 $0.0216 .0215 .0242 .0193 .0866 2/44. 2/46. $0.0232 $0.0251 2/48. .0260 .0255 .0206 .0953 .0305 .0268 .0219 .1043 $0.0256 .0314 .0279 .0224 .1073 2/60. $0.0312 .0588 .0406 .0438 .1742 Conversion cost per pound, with special reference to department expense. [Mill running full.] .. • ■ — ■"» Ply and count of yarn. 2/28. 2/32. 2/36. 2/38. 2/40. 2/42. 2/44. 2/46. 2/48. 2/60. Productive labor for all proc- esses $0.0590 $0.0678 $0.0773 Sn fVt?1 'en f)fi41 1^' weighing 3.7 ounces to the yard. Ihe actual loom analysis shows 2,990 warp ends of single- r^i^v,^"? ^''-.^S ^"^ *^^^*^ ^'^^^ "* 52 inchei. The weft S a 8m|le-thread worsted yam No. 62, and there are 72 picks to the inch! Amenean miOs.-lt requires 0.25 of a pound of the yam described ma^tlriil rt^Z\^ ^'"'^ "' ^J^'" '^'?^^- "^^^ r^'-'^« «<^^ oTsucTstock ; /5f"? fi""" ^^/^ the American conversion cost— from yam to fin- Mhed cloth—on this fabric may be taken as 13.2 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,438 per yard. ,x"»iujig S-JcenSer'^yltd ^'^ "^''^^ ''^'" ^""^ '^^ *^^ weave-room expense is m weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 3.8 cents, to b^M foUow • "** "^ ^^^^ *^^ "^^^ *"^ ^^^ ^^^^'^ "^ England of «T^® *"'!' **' *^^ ^f "i material being taken at $0.7808 per pound, the stock cost per yard of cloth is $0.1952. The converaion cost is 6.14 cents, making a total cloth cost of $0.2566 per yard rate it TIT^T"" ^^^T ^J'^ cents per yard and the weaver's TinnPtil^ Tl-^P*"^ ^^^'^ "" ^^"^ 'r- ^,* '^ t^o-loom work, and on weerof 55*C °^ * ^^^^^"^ produce 140 yards per loom per nefv^^i^'TT'^'^V'"'^ weaver's rate on this sample is 1.9 cents per yard m Roubaix, France. It is two-loom work, knd the usual output is 44 yards per day of 10 hours. of (V^Tlfi '10*7 '*°**^^ ^"^Pi^ "V*^** Glauchau-Meerane district of Germany is 1.197 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on the speedier looms of this distnct a weaver wiU produce 70 yaidL per day Sample No. 8. v*^? Tt""'^ homespun, 54 inches wide, weighing 8.2 ounces to the yard. Ihe actual loom analysis shows 1,890 warp ends of 4-ran vara doth '^Thrw'^. -^ f '^''^'^' ^'^'^^'^ t'' S4 inches in theXffl Cloth, rhe weft IS 4-run yam, and there are 26 picks to the inch. a in^^^f'^T^^ '^""""^ ^-^^^ «* * pound of yam to produce «n\o L l'''*'*^• • ^® *''?^^ •=°^* «f tJ>« stock matenal was $0^9 per pound, making a total stock cost of $0,387 per yard. fij w 7^ figures the American conversion cosfr-from yam to finished cloth--on this fabric may be taken as $0,133 per vard SsTer vanf itl ''"^* «^ ^^'^^V Jard. The labor J^st ffi cents per yard, the weave-room cost is 4.4 cents per yard. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE X. 657 ip Tho weaver's rate is 3.9 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom Vork, and on 90-pick looms an American weaver will produce, with- out extraordinary stoppages or delays, 45 yards per loom per day. English miUs.—Om figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: The yarn cost per yard of cloth is $0,273; the conversion cost is 6.61 cents, making a total cloth cost of $0.3391. It is two-loom work, and on Tappet 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 307 yards per loom per week of 55J hours. Sample No. 9. Woolen tweed, 56 inches wide, weighing 12.2 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 980 warp ends; the reed width is 70 mches, shrmking to 56 inches in the. finished cloth. There are 816 '^arp ends of 3-run doubled and twisted woolen yam; 164 warp ends are of 2/60 and 2/48 worsted yarns twisted together. The wefi 13 of two-ply three-run woolen yarn, doubled and twisted, and there are 16 picks to the inch. American inills.— The average stock cost per pound was $0,682, and 0.92 of a pound of stock material is required to produce a yard of the finished cloth. There was therefore a total stock cost of $0,627 per yard. From our figures, the American conversion cost— from yam to famshed cloth— on tins fabric may be taken as $0,145, making a total cloth cost of $0,772 per yard. Of this conversion cost, 10.7 cents per yard was for labor. The weaving expense was 4.5 cents per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw on one-loom work ranges from 3.20 cents to 4.40 cents, the typical rate being 3.75 cents. A two-loom rate of 2.7 cents per yard appears in two cases. English mills.— Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to. be as follows: The average cost of the stock material described is $0.3744 per pound, and as 0.92 of a pound is required for a yard of cloth, the total stock cost is $0.3444 per yard. The conversion cost is 6.89 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.4133 per yard. ihe English weaver^s rate is 1.8 cents per yard in the raw. It Is one-loom work, and on an 80-pick loom a weaver will produce 300 yards m a week of SSJ hours, and eam $5.40. Sample A'o. 10. Women's all-wool blue serge, 54 inches wide and weighing 7 5 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 2,904 warp ends of two-ply No. 36 worsted yarn on a reed width of 60 inches, sWnk- mg to 54 inches m the fimshed cloth. The weft is single No 28 worsted yarn, and there are 50 picks to tlie inch. It is piece dyed Ama%canmilh.—li requires 0.522 of a pound of yarn to produce a yard of finished cloth. The average stock cost of the material described above is $0,823 per pound, making a total stock cost of $0.43 per yard of cloth. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to imislied cloth on tins fabric may be taken as 16.5 cents per yard, mak- 658 REPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. i^ a total cloth cost of $0,595 per yard. The labor cost is 8.8 cents pCTvara. ijie weave-room expense is 4.6 cents per yard The weaver s rate per yard in the raw ia 3.8 cenU in a tv^ical mill It M two-loom work, and on 120-pick looms a weaver wilT prod^ without unusual delays, 32 yards per loom per da^-. ^ ' bell^So™ • ^^™*^ ^^"^^ *"*^* "° ^*^"'' "^ England to Yarn stock per yard of doth, $0,268, conversion cost, 6.98 centa per yard, makmg a total cloth cost of $0.3378 per yard of finished ^00 (Is. The weaver's rate in the raw is 1 .2 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on lappet 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 162 yards per loom per week of 55i hours. prociuce lOZ ^Rm'VtZ'f.^T ^T'^' "^^^ figures on this sample range from 38.02 cents to 42.4 cents per yard. The conversion cost is 8 14 cente and the yarn cost 29.88 cents in the lowest mill, maldn^ a tot^l cloth cost of $0.3802 m the lowest cost per finisheTyard ' nit! 7*"^^^ ? ^f ^ ^f Roubaix, France, on tfiis sample is 1.482 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 65 yards on two looms m 10 houre. J ^ Genmnwmvim mtes,--The principal center for tlie production of these goods in Germany m Glauchau, and the weaver's rate is 1 66 cents per yard m the raw. It is two-loom work, and a weaver wiH produce 60 yards m a day of 10 houi-s and earn $1. Sample No. 11, to^hf tlrKr*'^'''^ overcoating, 55 inches wide, weighing 22 ounces to ttie yard. Ihe actual loom analvsis shows 1,140 warp ends of 1- nm woolen yarn on a reed width of 68 inches. The weft is of IJ-nm woolen yarn, and there are 24 picks to the inch. Amencan mUls,~It requires 1.67 pounds of the yarn described above to produce a yard of the finished cloth. The average costof the yarn stock per pound is $0,422, making a total stock cost of $0,705 per yard. From our figures the American conversion cost— from varn to luuslied yard— on this fabric may be taken as $0,165 per vard "mafcinir a total cloth cost of $0,870 per yard. ^ ' ' °""^S «^3!lf ^''.H'n""^* }^ ^ y*'*^ f ^° •=®''*«- The average weaving-room expense is 5.9 cents per yard. s "• work^Zr If t 'o^'' ^( V^*^ ^ ^^ '■''^ ^..f -^ '^'''^t^- It is one-loom work, and on a 95;pick loom a weaver will produce, without extra- ordinary^delay^waitmg for yam or unusual stoppages, 35 yards per i'n^ZM wiZfe.—Our figures show the conversion cost in England on this fabnc to be 8.1 cents per yard. The weave-room expense is «5.1b cents per yard. ^ I^e weWs rate per yard in the raw is 2.26 cents. It is one-loom ZTr TrTcf? * 75-pick loom a weaver will produce 200 yards in a week of 55i hours, and earn $4.52. j u« m a Fm-eign wmmng rates^-^The weaver's rate on this sample in Roubaix, France IS 2.29 cents per yard. It is one-loom wort, and a weaver will produce from 38 to 40 yards in a day of 10 hours. ' I EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD dS" SCHEDULE K. 659 J I i t Weaver's rates on this sample were secured from five towns in Germany, as follows: The rate at Aachen is 3.7 cents per yard on slow looms. At Cottbus the rate is 3.29 cents per yard. At both Spermberg and Luckenwaide the rate is 2.47 cents per yard. At Forst the rate is 2.67 cents a yard. This material is almost universally woven on slow looms, and while at Aachen and Forst the rate is a httle lower on faster looms, a weaver can not produce enough more to make his earnings any greater on the speedier looms. The trouble is that the yarn is so large and the shuttles run out so often that a slow loom is just as efficient as a speedier one; in other words, a slow loom will empty the shuttles as fast as a weaver can supply them. It was stated in Forst, for instance, that a spool would hold only 200 picks of this thread, and that from 3,000 to 3,500 picks an hour is all that a weaver can possibly produce^ so that 30 yards per day would be about the limit of possible production, no matter what the theoretic speed of the loom. Sample No, 12. Women's worsted serge, piece dyed, 55 inches wide, weig hing 9 ounces to the finished yard. The actual loom analysis shows 3,100 warp ends on a reed width of 62 inches. The warp is of 2-ply worsted yam No. 33, the weft is single 24s. There are 56 picks to the inch. Amencan mills. — It requires 0.645 of a pound of yarn material to produce a yard of tlus cloth. The average cost of the yam is $0.7463 per pound; hence the stock material for a yard of cloth costs $0,481. From our figures the American conversion cost — fi*om yam to fin- ished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,168 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,649 per yard. Of the conveision cost, 9.5 cents are for labor*. The weaver's rate is 4 cents per yard in the raw for two-loom work. English miUs. — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: The cost of the yarn material per yard of cloth is $0.2674; the con- version cost is 7.77 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.3451 per yard. The weaver's rate is 1.6 cents per yard in the raw for two loom work and a weaver will produce 155 yards per loom per week of 55^ hours! French mills.— Our figures show the cost in France on tliis fabric to be as follows: The yarn material necessary to produce a yard of cloth costs $0.2780; the conversion cost is 8.3 cents per yard; makmg a total cloth cost of $0,361 per yard of finislied cloth. The weaving expense, or all labor cost from the finished yam up to the dyeing and finishing of the woven goods, is 3.542 cents per yard, the dyemg and finishing cost is 4.858 cents per yard. Sample No. 13. Men's fancy woolen suiting, 50 inches wide, weighing 16 ounces to the yard : The actual loom analysis shows 2,400 warp ends ; 2,200 warp ends are of cotton and shoddy mixed, and spun to a 16 cut yam; 200 ends are cotton single 16s. The reed width is 04 inches, shriiddng to 660 BEPOBT OF TAKIPF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 'i 56 inches m the finished cloth. The weft is cotton and wool sho.1,1^ spun to. 14 J cut yarn, and there are 32 picks to the Leh ^' Amenean mtOs.—It requires 1.1 pou£ds of the vam Hp«.riK^ * produce a vard of this cloth. The arerase stocfc ool?«ri ^^ ^ $0 254, maW a total stock cost of $o 27^ peJya^Tffi^^^^^ finSn ?Ti, ^ .the American convSn^cSt-fr^^ 1?^'^ mill ia^o 1 ; ^ ^%^ 7f^; ^® I*"'"'' cost in a typical American miii is 12.1 cents per finished yard. The weave-mnm ^^^Z:-n^ cents per yard. weave-room expense is 7.5 The stock yam cost per yard of finished cloth is «0 24fi Tl,a SoSTerTa^" '■'' *=*"*^ ^"^ ^"^''' ^^'^ a tfal K';,osrof work' rndTn'ar^™VV 1 '^'^'^ ^^' ^'"'^ '?„*^« ^*^- I* ^^ o^^e-loom week'of 55J hoTrs ^ '^ ''^"''^'' ^ P'°*^"«* 1^6 yards per Sample No. I4. Fancy woolen overcoating, 55 inches widp wpiVV^m.^ lo k whi5f/4«« = '^^ n"f^ ^^^ '^'^^y^ slows Tsl^la^-'enT'^ v^ S rS rd/i?"'^\r?^^? y"™^P ^"'l^ ^'^ 4 A woolen J!^" „^ wJ^^ ^^^.'^ }% ^^ '"''hes. The weft is li-run woolen yam, and there are 24 picks to the inch woolen Amenainmills.— It requires 1.4 pounds of stock material «« sto.T^nlt°J/ ^ ?'*^"*=* * V'^ «f fi'^^^d clotk The avera^ Pyard '^^ P"" P**""^' '"''^8 * *«*^ «*««>^ cost of |S ishf d^oZnteaf^^r^Tak^eTa^T;^ ce^nls nrvl^ *\^- t KtSUta^i *Xf ^^'^ ^^iat^osron^^^^^ IS ^.o cenDs per yard. Ihe weave-room expense is 5.6 cents npr v«rrl woTk' STn oS'l'o Pplf r^ r '''' ^*" ^ ^-^ -"^^ l"i' --^oom worK, ana on 90 to 98 iri« ia England to 1 7*'^"^^*''u ^escribed yams at a cost of 23.38 cents per pound and costCr vtd^s'^O sTrV."' ^ ^"^'^-"^ fi"'*?*^ clotCX material cost per yard is f 0.3273. The conversion cost is 7.77 cents per vard woTk and on aVs^n'^t {""* "" *^^ '"^'^ ^n^ ««"*« I* ^ <»»e-loom Sample No. 15. to^eTrd W^dv«H'TK' ^*/°t?' ^^^' ^-id weighing 10 ounces J A ■' P'**"*^ dyed: The actual loom analysis shows2 180 wxm ends of 2-ply worsted(yamNo.25ona reedwidth^ 66 iS/shriX^ BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABO ON SCHEDULE K. 661 I fco 54 inches in the finished cloth. The weft is also 2-ply worsted yam No. 25, and there are 33 picks to the inch. Aifrienmn mills,— li requires 0.702 of a pound of the yam material descnbed above to produce a yard of the finished cloth. The average cost of such yam stock per pound is $0,867, making: a total yam stock cost of $0 609. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to fimshed cloth on this fabric may be taken as 19 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost on this sample of $0,799. The labor cost is 10.3 cents per yard of finished cloth. The weave-room expense is 3.3 cents. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 2.9 cents. It is two-loom work, and on 120-pick looms a weaver will ordmarily produce 70 yards in a day of 10 hours. Enalish rrvitls, — Our figures show cost on this fabric in England to bo as follows: The yarn stock cost per yard of cloth is taken as $0.2801. The conversion cost is 8.53 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost per yard on this sample of $0.3654. The weave-room expense is 1.28 cents per yard. The weaver's rate in the raw is 0.96 of a cent per yard. It is two- loom work, and on Tappet 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 217 yards per loom per week of 55| hours. French mills.— Om figures of cost on this sample were secured from three French- mills, ranging from $0.36 to $0.3806. Detailed costs were furnished only by the mill showing the lowest cost. The yam stock material cost $0.2734 per yard, conversion cost 8.66 cents per yard, making a total cost of $0.36 per yard. The weavmg rate in French mills was secured through channels other than the above and found to be, in Roubaix, France, 0.97 of a cent per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver without extraor- dinary delays would produce 100 yards per day on two looms. German weaving rates.— The weaver's rates on this sample were secured from several cloth centers in Germany, but the oidy place where it is commonly made as two-loom work is Gera. There the weaver's rate is 0.75 of a cent a yard, and a weaver will produce 150 yards per day. In other German cloth centers this sample is pro- duced as one-loom work. Sample No. 16. Covert cloth 54 inches wide, weighing 11.5 ounces to the yard: Ihe actual loom analysis shows 3,760 warp ends on a reed width of b« incnes. ihe warp is 5i mn woolen yarn, the weft is of 5 mn woolen yam, and there are 42 picks to the inch American -mZZs.— It requu-es 0.805 of a pound of yam material to "^^ A^ t/rfo^ ""^ ^^'^ ''^''^^\ "^^^ ^^^^^^^ ««st of the stock per pound IS $0,597, makmg a total stock cost of $0.48 per yard • ^:^A^ ?^^ ^"^^F^^ \^ American conversion cost from yam to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 21 .2 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,692 per yard. The labor cost is 13.3 cente per yard. The weave-room expense is 6.1 cents per yard The weaver's rate is 4.3 cents per yard on two-loom basis. hnglish mills.— ^dur figures show cost on this fabric m England to be as follows: ^ 32080°--H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 4 i 662 EEPOBT OP TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Yam material, $0.3614 per yard of cloth, conversion coat, 10.1107. matoig a total cost of $0.4721 per yard of finished cloth. The weaver's rate per yard is 1.267 cents and the additional weave- room expense IS 1.77 cents. It is two-loom work, and on Tappet ^f ^."P.^T ^^^™^ ^ weaver will produce 191 yards per loom per week of 551 hours. ^ r r Fordgn weaving ra^.— The weaver's rate on this sample in Rou- baix, France, is 1.235 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on two looms a weaver wiU produce 71 yards of cloth m 10 houra and earn $u.oo. The weavmg rates on this sample were secured from the Gera dis- tect m Germany, which is the principal center for its production. Ihe two-loom rate is 1.935 cents, and a weaver will produce 56 yards m a day of 10 houra. '^ At Spermberg, Germany, the one-loom rate is 3.187 cents per yard, and a weaver working three shuttles per loom wiU produce 27 yards m 10 liours. The German trade name of this cloth is women's melton goods. Sample No, 17. Women's all-wool sacking, 54 inches wide, weighing 10.5 ounces to tne yard: The actual loom analysis shows 2,646 warp ends of 4-run woolen yarn on a reed width of 76 inches, shrinkmg to 54 inches in the hnished cloth. The weft is also 4-run woolen yam, and there are 37 picks to the mch. It is piece dyed. American miUs.-^lt requires 0.766 of a pound of yam material to produce a yard of this cloth. The average stock cost per pound is $0^11, makii^ a stock cost of $0,468 per yard of finished cloth. From our figures, the American conversion cost— from yam to Imished clotfi— on this fabric may be taken as $0,212, making a total cloth cost of $0.68 per yard. The labor cost m a yard of this cloth is 11 cents. The weave room expense is 5.6 cents per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 3 cents for two-loom work, and 5.5 cents for one-loom work. This cloth is usually woven as two-loom work in the United States, and a weaver on 100-pick looms will produce, without unusual delays for yam, or other con- tmgencies, 30 to 35 yards per loom per day. English miZfe.— Our figures show tlie cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: The stock material costs $0.36 per yard of finished cloth. The conversion cost is $0.1067 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.4667 per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 1.3 cents for two-loom work, and on Tappet 145-pick looms, assummg a 60 per cent efficiency, a weaver will produce 230 yards per loom per week of 55i hours. "Die weave-room expense is 1.32 cents per yard, including, of course, the weaver's rate. French miZZs.— Our figures show the cost in France on this fabric to be as follows: The yam cost is $0.2858 per yard; the conversion cost is $0.1485, makmg a total cost of $0.4343 per yard. The weave-room expense per yard, includmg weaving rate, is 1.95 cents. The weaver's rate is 1.147 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on two looms a weaver will produce 85 yards in a day. BEPOBT OP TAKIPP BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 663 German weaving rate. — ^The weaver's rate per yard in the raw in Gera, Germany, the principal center for this class of goods, is 2.13 cents. It is two-loom work, and on 120-pick looms a weaver will produce 66 yards per day of 10 hours. Sample No. 18, Men's fancy woolen suiting, 56 inches wide, weighing 12 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 1,680 warp ends on a reed width of 68 inches. Of these, 1,500 ends are of three-run woolen yarn; 36 ends are one and one-half run woolen yam; 144 ends are silk, single No. 8. The weft is of three and one-half run woolen yam, and there are 34 picks to the inch. ^ American mills. — The analysis shows that 0.852 of a pound of the yarn material, as described above, is required to produce a yard of the finished cloth. The average cost of the yam stock being $0,574 per pound, the stock cost is therefore $0,489. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to fiin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 21.3 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,702 per yard. The labor cost is 13 cents per yard. The weave-room expense is 7 cents per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw ranges from 5.6 cents to 6.8 cents, 6.2 cents being the usual rate and the one here taken as typical. It is one-loom work, and on a 100-pick loom a weaver will ordinarily produce from 35 to 38 yards in a day. English mills. — Our f^ures show the conversion cost from yam to finished cloth on this fabric in England to be 9.4 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.6 cents per yard in the raw. It is one-loom work, and on a 75-pick loom a weaver will produce 173 yards in a week of 55^ hours and earn $4.50. Foreign weaving rates. — In Roubaix, France, the weaver's rate on this sample is 3.35 cents per yard. It is one-loom work, and 30 yards is considered a good output in a day of 10 hours. In Germany the weaver's rate on this sample was ascertained at Kirchberg and at Forst. At Kirchberg, on slow looms, the rate was 3.92 cents per yard, and a weaver would produce 25 yards in 10 hours. At Forst the rate was 3.15 cents, and a good weaver would produce 33 yards in a day of 10 hours. Sample Nt>. 19. Women's all-wool worsted serge, 56 mches wide, weighmg 10 ounces to the yard : The actual loom analysis shows 3,528 warp ends of two-ply worsted yam No. 36. The weft is single worsted yarn No. 26. There are 55 picks to the inch. It is piece dyed. American mills. — It requhes 0.652 of a pound of yam to produce a yard of this cloth. The average cost of this stock was $0,805, mak- ing a yam material cost of $0,525 per yard of cloth. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 21.5 cents per yard, making a total cost of $0.74 per yard of cloth. The labor cost is 1 1.9 cents per yard. The weave-room expense is 5.1 cents per yard. The weaver's rate ranges from 3.25 cents to 5.5 cents per yard on two looms, 4.1 cents being the typical rate. 664 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 665 III Englisl miOs.—Om figures show the conversion cost from yam to limbed cloth on this fabric to be $0,091 per yard in Enc^Iand llie weavei^s rate is 1 .44 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom work, and on Tappet 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 150 yards per loom per week of 55i hours. Sample No. W, Women's aJl-wool broadcloth, 54 mches wide, weighing 9.3 ounces to tiie yard: Ihe actual loom analysis shows 3,120 warp ends of 64- run woolen yam on a reed width of 82 inch-s, shrinking to 54 inches m the hnished cloth. The weft is 5^ run woolen yam, and there are 40 picks to the mch m the raw, fuUing to 46 in the finished cloth. It is piece dyed. American miUs.— The mill analysis shows that 0.812 of a pound of yam stock is required to produce a yard of the finished cloth. The average stock cost per pound is $0,612, making a total stock cost per yard of finished cloth of $0.50. ^ From our figures, the American conversion cost—from yam* to imislied cloth—on this fabric may be taken as $0,216 per yard, makmg a total cloth cost of $0,716 per yard. The labor cost is 11 cents per yard. The weaver's rate on two-loom work is 3 cents per yard. English miU8,--Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows : The cost of the yam material entering into this cloth is taken as $0,493 i>er pound, and as 0.812 of a pound is required to produce a yard of cloth, the yam material costs $0.4003 per yard. The con- version cost is $0.1034 per yard, making a total clotfi cost of $0.5037 per yard. The weaver^ rate is 1 .08 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom work, and on Tappet 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 198 yards per loom per week of 55i hours, a 65 per cent efficiency being assumed. I'arejffnweamng rates,— The weaver's rate on this sample in Koubaix,I< ranee, is 1.2 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 66 yards in a day of 1 hours. The two-loom rate on tliis sample in Aachen, Gemiany, is 1.97 cents per yard. It is always woven by women on "overpick" looms, making 125 picks to the minute. A woman working on ttis cloth wm produce 32 yards in a day and ©am 63 cents. Sample No. 21, Fancy woolen overcoating, 54 inches wide, weighing 16 ounces to tHe yard: Ihe actual loom analysis shows 2,380 warp ends of 2i run woolen yam on a reed width of 68 inches, shrinking to 54 inches m the finished cloth. The weft is of 2i run woolen yam, and there are 38 picks to the inch. Amencan milk—It requires 1.12 pounds of yam material to pro- duce a yard of finished cloth. The average stock cost per pound is $0^d7, making a total stock cost of $0,512 per yard. From our figures the American conversion cost— from yam to Imished cloth— on this fabric may be taken m $0,217 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,729 per yard. The labor cost is 13.4 cents per yard; the weave-room expense is 8.2 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 7.6 cents per yard in the raw. It is one-loom work, and on a 90-pick loom a weaver will, without extraordinary delays or waits for warj), produce 33 yards per day of 10 hours. English mills. — Our figures show the cost m England on this fabric to be as follows : Taking the cost of a pound of the j^am material entering into this cloth at $0.3131, and 1.12 pounds bemg necessary to produce a yard of the cloth, the stock cost per yard is $0.3507. The conversion cost is 8.9 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.4397 per yard. The weaver's rate is 3.16 cents per yard in the raw. It is one^oom work, and a weaver will produce 137 yards on a 75-pick loom in a week of 55^ hours. Sample No. 22, Men's blue serge, 56 inches wide and weighing 14 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 3,048 warp ends on a reed width of 63 inches, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. The warp yam is two-ply worsted No. 24; the weft is single No. 12. There are 44 picks to the inch. It is piece dyed. American miUs. — It requires within the merest fraction of a pound of yarn material to produce a yard of this cloth. The warp yarn costs an average of $0.77 per pound; the weft, $0,645. There is slightly more weight in the warp than in the weft; but this is so slight as to be negligible. The yarn material cost for a yard of cloth should be taken at $0,672. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to fin- ished cloth may be taken as 22.2 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,894 per yard. Analyzing this conversion cost, it is found to contain 10.9 cents as a labor cost per yard. The weave room expense is from 2.88 cents to 4 cents per yard of finished cloth. The weaver's rate is 2.6 cents per yard in the loom. This is, of course, a two-loom rate, and a weaver on two looms of 130-pick effi- ciency will produce, without accidents or waits for material, 40 yards per loom per day. English mills. — Our figures show cost on this fabric in England to be as follows: The cost of the yarn material for a yard of cloth is given at $0.3718. The manufacturing cost is 11.93 cents, making a total of $0.4911- per yard. The weaver's rate is 1.37 cents per yard in the raw. It is two- loom work, and on 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 190 yards per loom per week, and earn $5.20. French weaving rates.— The weaver's rate on this cloth in Roubaix France, is 1.76 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 66 yards of cloth in a day of 10 hours, and earn $1.16. Sample No, 23. Men's blue worsted serge, 54 inches wide, weighing 12 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 3,320 warp ends on a reed width of 61i inches, shrinking to 54 inches in the finished cloth. The warp is two-ply 24 and the weft single 24 worsted yarn. There are 54 picks to the mch. It is piece dyed. 666 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABB OF BCHEBtTMI K. Arnencan mtUs. — ^The yam cost as reported is $0.75 per pound, and It requires 0.8 of a pound of yam material for a yard of miished cloth; the stock cost, therefore, is $0.60 per yard. From our figures, the American conversion cost — from yam to finished cloth~on this fabric may be taken as $0,236 per yard. This IS withm 0.6 of a cent of the average of all the firms giving complete costs reports on this sample, and within less than 0.5 of a cent of the cost given by the mill making the sample. The total cloth cost, therefore, is $0,835 per yard. Analyzing the conversion cost, it is found that 15 cents per yard is for labor. The weaver's rate is 4 cents per yard on the loom, making a weav- ing cost of 4.75 cents per yard of finished cloth. It is two-loom work, and a weaver wiU produce on 120-pick looms, without extraordinary t ' BEPORT or TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 667 delays, 24 yards per loom per day.' English mills. — O * u • - X i^ , .P^^ figures show the cost in England on this fabnc to be as follows: The stock material costs $0,366 per yard of finished cloth: the conversion or manufacturing cost is $0,104, making a total cloth cost of $0.47 per yard. It is two-loom work, and on 145-pick looms a weaver will produce 155 yards per loom per week of 55 J hours. French miUs.'-OuT French figures on this cloth show that $0.4426 per yard is the net cost of this fabric at the miU. Sample Na. 24, Fancy cotton- warp worsted, 56 inches wide and weighing 12 ounces H. , J*^^* "^.^^ ^^^^ loom analysis shows 4,136 warp ends, of which 2,688 ends are cotton 16/80; 1,336 ends are two-ply 26 cotton yarn; and 112 ends are 42/2 silk yam. The width in the reed is 65 inches. The weft is two-ply worsted yarn No. 40, and there are 64 picks to the inch. American miKg.— It reouires 0.8 of a pound of yam material to P^^n ^^f .* ^^^^ ^^ ^¥^ ^^^^^- '^^® average cost of the yarn described ^ f • i /7 pound, making a total stock cost of $0,571 per yard From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to toished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 24 cents, making a total cloth cost of $0,811 per yard on this sample. The labor cost is 17 cents per yard. The weaver's rate on two-loom work ranges from 6.4 cents to 6.9 cents per yard. Two establishments gave a one-loom rate of 13 2 cents per yard on this sample. English mills.— Out figures show cost on this fabric in England to be as follows: ^ Material, $0.5076 per finished yard; conversion cost, 9.85 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.6061 per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.6 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom work, and on lappet 140-pick looms a weaver will produce 114 yards per loom per week of 55J hours. j f F * ^(^eign weaving mtes.—'bi Roubaix, France, this is one-loom work and the rate is 5.29 cents per yard. A weaver will produce 21.8 yards in a day of 10 hours, and earn $1.15. Weavers' rates on this sample were secured from four of the cloth centers in Germany, as follows : At Forst the rate is 6.85 cents, and a weaver will produce 17 yards in a day. At Aachen the rate is 7 cents per vard, and a weaver will produce 83 yards in a week of 58i hours; and earn $5.81. At Cottbus the rate on 100-pick looms is 5.48 cents per yard, and a weaver will produce 20 yards in a day. On looms of 80 picks, or less, the rate is 6.54 cents per yard, and 17 yards per day is considered an excellent day's work on these looms. At Spermburg the rate is 6 cents per yard, and 16 yards per dav is considered a good day's work. Sample No. 25. Fancy cassimere, 56 inches wide, weighing 16 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 2,672 warp ends of 3i mn woolen yam on a reed width of 68 inches, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. The weft is also 3i mn woolen yam, and there are 42 picks to the inch. American miUs. — ^It requires 1.16 pounds of yam material to produce a vard of this cloth. The average stock cost per pound is $0,568, making a total stock cost of $0,659 per yard. From our figures the American conversion cost — ^from yarn to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,245, making a total cloth cost of $0,904 per yard. Analyzing this conversion cost it is found that 15.4 cents per yard is for labor; the average weaving expense is 8.8 cents per yard of finished cloth. The weaver's rate is 6.6 cents per yard in the raw. It is one-loom work, and on a 96-pick loom a weaver will produce, without extraor- dinary delays, 30 yards in ten hours. English mills.-— Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: Based upon a yam cost of $0.3733 per pound, the stock cost per yard of goods is $0,433. The conversion cost is $0.1136 per yard making a total cloth cost'of $0.5466 per yard. The weaver's rate is 3.47 cents per yard in the raw. It is one-loom work, and on a 70-pick loom a weaver will produce 124 yards in- a week of 55J hours, and earn $4.30. Sample No. 26. Fancy cotton warp worsted, 60 inches wide, weighing 11.2 ounces to tlie yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,056 warp ends on a reed width of 69 inches. Of these warp ends, 3,848 are cotton 2/30 and 208 ends are mercerized cotton 2/50. The weft is 2-ply number 40 worsted yam, and there are 62 picks to the inch. American miMs.— It requires 0.794 of a pound of yam material to produce a yard of cloth; the average cost of the yam used was $0,692 per pound; the resulting cost of the stock material in a yard of cloth is $0.55. From our figures the American conversion cost — from yam to finished cloth— on this fabric may be taken as $0,249, making a total cloth cost of $0,799 per yard. 668 BEPOET OP TABIFF BOABB OH SCHEDULE K, Of this coiiTersion cost of 24.9 cents, 15.8 cents per yard is for labor. The weave room expense is 7 cents per finished yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw ranges from 9.1 cents to 10.4 cents for one-loom work, and from 5.5 cents to 6.1 cents for two-loom work. The mill making the sample pays 5.7 cents per yard for two-loom work, and this is the typical two-loom rate. English miUs, — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as foUows: The yam material for a yai^ of cloth is taken at a cost of $0.4085, the conversion cost at $0,109 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.5175 per yard. The weaver's two-loom rate in the raw is 2.6 cents per yard, and on two 130-pick looms a weaver will produce 130 yards per loom per week of 55 J hours. Foreign weaving rates, — ^In Roubaix, France, the weaver's rate on tliis cloth is 2.47 cents per yard on two looms, and a weaver will produce 38 yards in a day. Weaver's rates on this sample were secured from three cloth centers in Germany. At Munchen-Gladbach it is two-loom work and the two-loom rate is 3.4 cents per yard; a weaver will produce 31 vards in a day and earn $1.05. At Cottbus this is one-loom work, and the rate on looms of 90 to 100 picks or over per minute is 5.8 cents per yard; on looms 80 picks or less the rate is 6.3 cents per yard. At Aachen this is one-loom workj the rate is 5.8 cents per yard, and a weaver will average 103 yards per week, and earn $5.97. The weaver's rates on one-loom work in the United States are practically double the one-loom rates in the one-loom districts of Germany, while the two-loom rates in this country bear practically the same relation to the two-loom rates in Europe on this sample. Sample No. 27. Women's cheviot, 54 inches wide and weighing 1 3 ounces to the yard : The actual loom analysis shows 2,240 warp ends of two-ply No. 20 yarn on a 69-inch reed, shrinking to 54 iAches in the finished cloth. The weft is also two-ply ^o, 20 yam, and there are 33 picks to the inch. Arrtefiean rmMs.— It reouires 0.93 of a pound of yarn material to produce a yard of finished cloth. The average stock cost pr pound of the material described above is $0,804, making a total cost per yard of $0,748. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 25 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,998 per yard. The labor cost is 12.3 cents per yard. The weave-room expense is 3.5 cents. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 2.46 cents. It is two-loom work, and on 90-pick looms a weaver will produce ordinarily 35 to 40 yards per loom per day. English miOs, — Our figures show a cost on this fabric in England to be as follows: The stock material is taken at 40 cents per pound in English mills, making a material cost of 37.2 cents per yard of cloth. I^e conver- sion cost is 10.43 cents per yard, making a cloth cost of $0.4763 per yard of finished cloth. h i„«i*sii.ciu LAboratof)^ EEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. ' JSftQ The weaver's rate is 1.12 cents per yard. In ititwO-Ioer yard. In Germany, the one4oom rate at Forst on 80-pick looms is 6.78 cents, and on looms of 100 picks or over the rate is 5.65 cents per yard. At Aachen the one-loom rate is 6.5 cents per yard, and a weaver will produce 20 yards in a day. Sample No, S5. Women's gray worsted serge, 58 inches wide, weighing 12.2 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,850 warp ends of 2-ply worsted yam No. 45 on a reed width of 75 inches, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished cloth. The weft is 2-ply worsted yam No. 45, and there are 63 picks to the inch. American mills. — ^The average cost of the yam stock described is 11.333 per pound. Nine-tenths of a pound of stock material is required to produce a yard of the cloth; the stock cost per yard of doth is therefore $1.20. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam too finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as $0,294 per yard, making a total doth cost of $1,494 per yard. The labor cost is 16 cents per yard. The weaver's rate ranges from 4.25 cents to 6.1 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom work, and on 105-pick looms a weaver will produce, in a typical American mill, from 20 to 25 yards per loom per day, if there are no extraordinary delays or waits for warp yam. French miZZs.— Our figures show the cost in France on tnis fabric to be as follows: The yarn cost per yard of finished cloth is $0.7758. The conversion cost is $0.1531, making a total cost of $0.9289 per finished yard of cloth. The weaver's rate on this sample in Roubaix, France, is 2.322 cents. per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 43 yards m. a day of 10 hours. German weaving rate.-An Gera, Germany, the weaving rate for two-loom work on this sample is 2.19 cents per yard, ana a weaver will produce 44 yards in a day on two looms. Sample No. S8, Men's blue eerge, 66 inches wide finished, 56 picks to the inch, 18 ounces to the yard, piece-dyed: The actual loom analysis shows 3,744 warp ends, or 66 to the inch. The warp and weft are each 2 ply-24 No. worsted yam. American miUs. — ^An examination of the schedules secured indi- cates that it requires 1.35 pounds of yam material to produce a yard of the finished cloth. The average price of the yam was $0.93 per pound, giving a stock material cost of $1,256 per yard. EEPOBT OF TABIFF B0AEI> ON SCHEDULE K. 675 From our figures, the American conversion cost — ^from yam to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0.30 per yard, mak- ing a total cloth cost of $1,556 per yard. An analysis of this conversion cost shows 17.8 cents as the labor cost per yard in a representative mill. The weaver's rate is 4.7 cents per yard for two loom-work, and on 140-pick looms a weaver will produce 34 yards per loom per day. English miZZs.— Our figures snow the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: The price of the yam required is given at $0.7016 per pound, and since 1.35 pounds is required for a yard of cloth, the yarn cost per yard is $0.94716. The conversion cost is $0,154 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1.10 per yard. The weaver's rate is 1.8 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on 145-pick looms an average weaver will produce 3.42 yards per hour on each loom. Foreign weainng rates, — ^The weaving rate on this sample at Rou- baix, France, was found to be 0.829 of a cent per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 109 yards per day. This doth is made in the Glauchau district in Germany, and the weaver's rate is 0.87 of a cent per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 109.3 yards per day and earn 95 cents. German weaving rates. — ^Weaver's rates on this sample were secured in various parts of Germany, in all of which it was one-loom work. In Aachen, the principal center for these goods, the weaver's rate varies from 4.8 cents per yard to 5.758 cenS per yard. A man will weave 20 yards per day on one loom and earn $1.15 at the 5.758- cent rate. In Spermberg the rate is 4.8 cents per yard, and a weaver will pro- duce an average of 1.6 yards per hour. Cloths like the sample were formerly made at Cottbus. and when made there the one-loom rate was 5.758 cents per yara, but more recently this class of goods has not been made at ttds center. Sample No, 37, Men's black clay worsted, 56 inches wide, weighing 16 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,284 warp ends on a reed width of 68 inches. The warp is 2-ply worsted yam No. 32. The weft is single number 15, and there are 60 picks to the inch on the loom, or 61 picks per finished inch. It is piece-dyed. American mills.— It requires 1.1 pounds of yam material to pro- duce a yard of this cloth. The average price of the warp yam, as shown from the schedules, is $0,914 per pound; of the weft yam, $0,835 per pound. There is sHghtly more weight in the warp than in the weft. The stock cost of the 1.1 pounds of yarn material is $0.96 per yard of finished cloth. From our figures, the American conversion cost from yam to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as $0.30 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1.26 per yard. The labor cost is 13.6 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 5.3 cents per yard in the raw for two-loom work, and on 100-pick looms the average weaver will produce 25 yards per loom per day. The one-loom rate on this sample ranges from 9 cents to 11 cents per yard. 676 BEPORT OF TAKIFF BOABD OK BCHEDtlLB K. English mUk. — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: Taking the warp yam at the price of $0.66 per pound, the weft yam at $0.61 per pound in the proportion which they bear to the 1.1 pounds of yam material required for a yard of cloth, we have a yam material cost of $0.6985 per yard of finished cloth. The manu- facturing or conversion cost is 14.36 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.8421 per yard on this sample. The English weaving rate on the sample is 2 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on 135-pick looms a weaver will produce 2.3 yards per loom per hour. Foreign weaving rates. — The weaver's two-loom rate on this sample in Koubaix, France, is 2.47 cents per yard, and a weaver will produce 44 yards in a day of 10 hours. In Aachen, Germany, the one-loom rate on this sample is 5.65 cents per yard. In Luckenwalde the one-loom rate is 6.68 cents per yard; and in Spermberg the rate varies from 5.14 cents to 5.39 cents per yard, according to the speed of the loom. As both the American one-loom and two-loom rates have been stated, the proper comparison here can be safely made. Sample No. 38. Fancy worsted suiting, 56 inches wide inside the selvage, weighing 11.5 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,112 warp ends on a reed width of 68.5 inches. Of these warp ends, 2,096 are 2-ply worsted yam No. 40, and 2,016 ends are 2-ply 40 worsted and silk. The weft is single 22 worsted yam, and there are 60 picks to the inch. It is piece dyed. American milts. — It requires 0.754 of a pound of the yam described above to produce a yard of this cloth. The yam stock costs $1,134 per pound, and the stock cost for a yard of cloth is $0,855. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 31.1 cents, making a total cost of $1,166 per finished yard. The labor cost is 16.9 cents per yard. The weaving rate in the raw ranges from 11.4 cents to 12.1 cents per yard for one-loom work. For two-loom work the rate ranges from 5.3 cents to 6.6 cents per yard. For reasons which will appear, both of these systems and rates must be borne in mind. ' A weaver on one 90-pick loom will produce 18 yards in a day. On two 110-pick looms a good weaver will pro- duce 35 yards in a day. English miMs. — Our figures show cost on this fabric in England to be as follows: Taking the stock material at the given price of $0.8304 per pound, the stock cost of the yam in a yard of cloth would be $0.6261, on a basis of 0.754 of a pound of the stock for a yard of the finished cloth. The conversion cost is $0.1165; the total cost of production being, therefore, $0.7426 per yard. The weaver's rate in the raw is 2.456 cents per yard. It is two- loom work, and on 135-pick looms a weaver will produce 135 yards per loom per week of 55i houra BEPOET OF TABIFP BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 677 Foreign weamng rates. — In Roubaix, France, the weaver's rate is 2.3 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 44 yards per day of 10 hours, and earn $1.01. Up to this point the weavers' rates in England and France may be compared with the American two-loom rate of 5.3 cents per yard. In all other points visited in Europe this was one-loom work, and hence the following rates must be compared with our 12-cent one- loom rate. In Verviers, Belgium, it is one-loom work, and the rate is 7 cents per vard. The rates secured from the cloth centers of Germany were all for one-loom work, and are as follows: In Luckenwalde 7.4 cents per yard, and a weaver will produce 13 yards in a day. In Forst 5.14 cents per yard on looms of 90 picks and over, and 6.17 cents on the slower looms. At Aachen, on 110- pick looms, the rate is 6.17 cents per pard, and a weaver will produce 22 yards per day. At Spermberg the rate is 5.4 cents, and 18.5 yards is considered a good day's work. Sample No. 39. Men's serge, 56 inches wide and weighing 1 1 ounces to the finished yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,850 warp threads or ends on a reed width of 70 inches, shrinking to 56 inches m the finished cloth. There are 65 picks, or. threads of weft yarn, to the inch. The yarn for both warp and weft is single worsted yarn No. 25. It is piece dyed. American miUs. — It requires .78 of a pound of yam material to produce a yard of this clotn. Taking $0.95 per pound as the average price of such yarn, gives $0.74 as the cost of the yarn material. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken.as 32 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1.06 per yard. Analyzing the conversion cost, it is found that 19 cents per yard is for labor. The weaving rate is 6.35 cents per yard on the loom, or when paid by the thousand picks, the rate is 2.5 cents per thousand. This is a two-loom rate, and on 110-pick looms a weaver will ordinarily pro- duce from 30 to 35 yards per day. French mills. — Our figures show the cost on this fabric in Franc© to be as follows: The yarn material cost is taken at $0,486 per yard of finished cloth. The conversion cost is $0.1743, making a total cloth cost of $0.6603 for the finished yard. The weaving was done in this factory on one loom, and a weaver's rate was 2.22 cents per thousand picks, or 5.195 cents per yard in the raw, making a weaving cost of 5.26 cents per finished yard. In Roubaix, France, where the cloth is woven on two looms, the weaver's two-loom rate is 3 cents a yard, and a weaver will produce on two looms of the type used in that locality from 30 to 35 yards in a day, earning from 90 cents to $1.05. Belgian weaving rates. — In Verviers, Belgium, a strictly one-loom district, the rate per yard is 6.32 cents, and a weaver will produce one one loom of the low speed common in that district from 17 to 18 yards a day. 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 5 678 EEPOBT OF TABUfF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K» Sample No. 40. Women's brown broadclothi, 54 inches wide and weigliing 11 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis sliows 3,D32 warp ends, including selvage ; warp ends are single No. 30. The width on tlie reed is 71 J inches, shrinkinff to 54 mches m the finished cloth. The weft is 411 ran, or 25 cut woolen yam, and there are 60 picks to the inch. It is piece dyed. Armrimn miUs, — ^The average stock cost per pound of the yam described is $0,733. The amount required to produce a yard of cloth is 0.96 of a pound. The total stock cost is, therefore, $0,704 per yard. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 35.9 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1,003 per yard. The labor cost is 19.9" cents per yard. The weavo-room expense, including weaving, of course, is 7.2 cents per yard. The weavers rate is 5.4 cents per yard for two-loom work. It is usually woven by women, and on 115-pick looms a woman wiU pro duce 20 yards per loom per day, assuming a 65 per cent efficiency. Gerrrmn mills, — Our figures show the cost on a similar fabric in Germany to be as foUows: The material cost for a yard of this cloth is $0,553; the conversion cost is $0,221, making a total cost per yard of this cloth of $0,774. The two-loom weaver's rate is 3.54 cents per yard in the raw for 100-pick looms. The average weaver will produce 30 yards per day of 10 hours on such looms. Foreign weaving rates. — At Aachen, Germany, goods like the sample are woven almost exclusively by women on **overpick" looms speeded to 125 picks per minute. The rate is 2.5 cents per yard, and the maximum earnings of women on this work is reported to be $0.62 per day. The weaver's rate in Gera is' 2.8 cents per yard for two-loom work, usually 120-pick looms. The weaver's rate on this sample in Eoubaix, France, is 1.838 cents Ser yard. It is two-loom work, and 55 yards are considered a good ay's work. Sample No. 41. Black thibet cloth, 56 inches wide, weighing 17 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis 8ho\¥s 3,304 warp ends on a reed width of 80 inches, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. There are 58 picks, or weft threads, to the inch. It h made of 4i-run yam and ia piece dyed. American miUs. — It requires 1.22 pounds of yam material to pro- duce a yard of the cloth. The yarn cost is $0.64 per pound, mafiug a yam-material cost of $0.7808 per yard of cloth. ^ F , ^ "From our figures the American conversion cost from 3^am to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as $0.36, making a total cloth cost of $1,141 per yard. Of the 36 cents conversion cost, 18.1 cents per yard is for labor. ^ Tlie weaver's rate in the raw is 6.38 cents per woven yard. This amounts to 7.37 cents per yard of finished cloth. This is a two-loom rate, and the cost here is given on a two-loom basis. Cloth of this character, however, is usually one-loom work, and a weaver on one EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 679 90-pick loom will produce 2 1 yards per day. The one-loom rate varies from 8.5 cents to 11 cents per yard. English mills. — Our figures snow the cost in England on this fabric to be as foUows : Taking the yarn cost at $0,406 per pound and apply- ing the loom analysis of 1.22 pounds of yam material to a yard of finished cloth, we have $0.49532 as the cost of the yarn material. The manufacturing cost is $0.2053 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,701 per finished yard. This cloth calculation is based on one-loom work for the weaver, and the weaving rate on one loom is 4 cents per yard in the raw, making a weaving cost per finished jrard of 4.78 cents. It is one- loom work in England, and on an 80-pick loom a weaver will produce 104 yards in a week of 55 J hours and earn $4.16, Sample No. 4^. Men's liffht-wei^ht blue serge, 58 inches wide and weighing 13 ounces to tne yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,830 warp ends on a reed widtn of 70 inches. There are 65 picks, or weft threads, to the inch; both warp and weft are of 2-ply worsted yam No. 45. It is piece dyed. American mills. — ^The schedules show that 0.9 of a pound of yarn material is necessary to make a yard of cloth. The average cost of the yarn material is $1,172 per pound, making a stock cost for a yard of cloth of $1,055. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 36.2 cents per yard, making the total cost of the finished cloth $1,417 per yard. Analyzing the conversion cost, it is found that 21.5 cents is labor cost. Tne weave- room expense is 9 cents per finished yard of cloth. The weaver's rate in the raw runs from 5.25 to 7.7 cents, 5.75 cents being the typical rate. It is two-loom work, and these rates are based on two loomsper weaver. English mills.— Our figures show a cost on this fabric in England to be as follows: Taking the yarn material at $0.7756 per pound, and 0.9 of a pound being required for a yard of cloth, the stock cost is $0,698; the conversion cost is 15.2 cents per yard, makiug a total cloth cost of $0.85 per finished yard. The weaver's rate in the raw is 2.2 cents per yard; the total weave-' room cost is 3.914 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on 125- pick looms a weaver will produce 120 yards per loom per week of 55i hours. French miUs.— Our figures of costs on tliis sample were secured from SIX mills in France. Ihe average cost of yarn material was $0,689 per pound, making a cost for material of 62 cents per yard of cloth. The manufa^itunng or conversion cost is 14.58 cents, making a total cost of $0,766 per yard. ^ The weaving rate is 2.7 cents per yard in the raw; the total weav- mg expense is 3.01 cents per finished yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will produce 38 yards in a day of 10 hours, earning $1.03. German mills.— Our figures show that for a similar cloth in Ger- man mills the cost of the yarn material is 78 cents per yard of finished cloth. The manufacturing or conversion cost is 24.1 cents, making a total cost of $1,021 per yard. 680 EEPOET OF TARIFF BO.iRD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 681 The weaver's two-loom rate is 4.8 cents on 100-pick looms, and on two such looms the average weaver will produce 21 yards in a day and earn SI. 01. In Cottbus, Germany, the weaver's rate on one loom was 5.8 cents, and a weaver would produce 17 yards in a day of 10 hours. In Aachen, Germany, on slow looms the rate was 6.9 cents per yard, one-loom rate, and a* weaver would produce 13 yards in a day. Sample No. 4^, Women's broadcloth, 54 inches wide and weighing 10.5 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 3,332 warp ends, including selvage, of single worsted yarn No. 30, on a reed width of 67.5 inches. The weft is of 3 f run or 20 cut woolen yam, and there are 53 picks to the inch. Amerwan miUs, — ^The average stock cost is $0,798 per pound. It requires 0.927 of a pound to produce a yard of the cloth, making a total yam stock cost of $0.74 per yard. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 36.4 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1,104 per yard. The labor cost is 17.8 cents per vard. The one-loom weaver's rate is 7.9 cents per j^ard in the raw; the two-loom rate is 3.8 cents per yard. A weaver will produce 20 yards per loom per day. French miUs.--OuT figures show the cost on tliis fabric in France to be as follows : The conversion cost on this fabric in French mills is 20.47 cents per finished yard. The weavmg rate is 3.5 cents per yard in the raw as a one-loom rate, or 1.54 cents as a two-loom rate. On two looms a weaver will produce 60 yards in 10 hours. Foreign weaving rates. — The comparative weaver's rate was secured in two of the two-loom districts in Germany as follows: On 100-pick looms, at a point near Aachen, the weaver's rate is 3.17 cents per yard in the raw, and the weave-room expense at this point was 4.37 cents per yard. The two-loom rate on this sample in the Gera-Greiz district is 2.27 cents per yard, and a weaver on 120-pick looms will produce 45 yards in a day of 10 hours. Sample No. 44- Woolen overcoating, 60 inches wide and weighing 24 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 6,336 warp ends of 4^ run woolen yarn on a reed width of 78 mches, shrinking to 60 inches in the finished cloth. The weft is also 4^ mn woolen yarn, and there are 50 picks to the inch. American miUs. — It requires 1.78 pounds of stock material, as described above, to make a yard of tnis cloth. The average stock cost per pound is $0,728, making a total stock cost of $1,296 per yard of cloth. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 36.5 cents per yard, making a total, cloth cost of $1,661 per yard. Of this 36.5 cents conversion cost, 21.1 cents is the cost of labor per yard. The weaving expense per finished yard is 11.2 cents. The weaver's rate in the raw is 9.6 cents per yard. It is one-loom work. English miUs, — Our figures show cost on this fabric in England to be as follows: Taking the cost of the yarn material as described above at $0.4866 per pound in English mills, and taking 1 .78 pounds as necessary to produce a yard of finished cloth, the stock cost per yard is $0.8661. The conversion cost is 18.77 cents per yard, making a" total cloth cost of $1,054 per yard of finished cloth. The weaver s rate per yard is 3.86 cents in the raw. It is one-loom work, and on 80-pic-lv looms a weaver will produce 115 yards in a week of 55J hours and earn $4,44. French mill. — The conversion cost on this cloth in a French mOl is $0.1812 per y(\rd. Sample No. 4^- Mcd's fancy half-worsted suiting, 5Q.b inches wide, weighing 13.2 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,320 warp ends; 4,104 of these are 2-ply worsted yarn No. 48, and 216 are of 2/18 silk. The filling or weft is 6-run woolen yarn. There are 62 picks to the inch. American mills. — It requires 0.974 of a pound of yarn material to make a yard of the finished cloth. The average stock cost is $1,164 per pound, making a total stock cost for a yard of the finished cloth of $1,134. From our figures, the American conversion cost — from yam to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0.37 per yard, mak- ing a total cloth cost of $1,504 per yard. Analyzing this conversion cost, it is found that 27.5 cents per yard is for labor. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 13.2 cents as a one-loom rate. In one instance a two-loom rate of 6.9 cents was given, but this is practically always one-loom work. On one loom an average American weaver will, without extraordinary delays, pro- duce 22 yards in a day. English mills. — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: Taking the yarn mateiial going into this cloth at an average price of $0,805 per pound, the stock material for a finished yard of cloth would cost $0.7841. The conversion cost is $0.1671 per yard, making a total cost, upon this estimate of stock cost, of $0.9512 per yarJ The weaver's rate is 6.16 cents per yard in the raw on a basis of one-loom work, although it is quite generally two-loom work in England. On a basis of two looms, a weaver will produce, on Tappet 130-pick looms, 109 yards per loom per week of 55^ hours. Foreign weaving rates. — The one-loom rate on this sample in Eoubaix, France, is 6.7 cents, and a weaver will produce 16 yards in ten hours. In Verviers, Belgium, the rate is 7.3 cents per yard. In Cottbus, Germany, this is one-loom work, and a weaver will produce from 16 to 18 yards in a day of ten hours. The rate there IS 7.17 cents per yard. >^. 682 KEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Sample No, 4-6, BEPORT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 683 Uniform cloth, indigo wool dyed, 57 inches wide, weighing 21 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 3,240 warp ends, including selvage, on a reed width of 91 inches, shrinking to 57 inches in the finished cloth. There are 56 picks to the mch in the loom, or before shrinking, but this fulls up to 74 picks per inch in the finished goods. Both warp and weft are of 3 J run woolen yam. It is dyed m the wool. American miMs. — ^The average cost of the stock material is S0.735 per pound, and 1.8 pounds of yarn material is required to produce a yaid of cloth. The total stock cost is therefore $1,323 per yard. From our figures, the American conversion cost— from yarn to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,386, making a total cloth cost of $1,709 per yard. Analysing this conversion cost, it is found that 22.7 cents is for labor. The weaving cost on the finished yard in a t}T)ical mill is 14.7 cents. The weaver's rate, as is well understood, is in all cases on the cloth in the raw, or directly from the loom. In this case that rate would be on 56 picks to the inch, but in cloths of this type the woven yard shrinks materially in the finish; thus the weaver^s rate Eer yard in the raw on this cloth is 10.7 cents per yard, this being ased on 56 picks to the inch. Since it fulls to 74 picks per inch, or a difference of 32 per cent, the weaving rate alone, as applied to the finished yard, would be 13.424 cents per yard. Of course, such variations between the weaver's rate at the loom and the finished cloth can occur only in cases of such cloths as the sample. It is one- loom work, and on 100-pick looms a weaver will produce, without extraordinary delays, 20.8 yards in 10 hours. English miMs, — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: The price of the yarn material is $0.5075 per pound, and as 1.8 pounds is required for a yard of cloth, the stock cost per yard is $0.9135. The conversion cost is $0.1861, making a total cloth cost of $1.0996 per yard. The weaving cost is 8 cents per yard of finished cloth. The weaver's rate is 5.7 cents per yard in the raw, based upon the 56 picks per inch as woven in the loom, the 8 cents representing the w^eaver's rate and other weave-room costs on the shrunken cloth, or after it has been fulled up to 74 picks per inch. It is one-loom work, and on a 80-pick loom (the kind generally used for this class of goods) a weaver will produce 79 yards in a week of 55J hours, and earn $4.50. Sample No, ^7, Black unfinished worsted, 56 inches wide, weighing 15 ounces to the yard, or, if London shrunk, 16 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,256 warp ends on a reed width of 76 inches, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. There are 76 picks to the inch. Both warp and weft are of 2-ply worsted yam No. 40. It is piece dyed. American milk. — It requires 1.048 pounds of yam material to pro- duce a yard of this cloth; 0.418 of a pound for the warp and 0.63 of a pound for the weft. Tlie average cost of the yam used was $1.07 per pound; the yam material therefore costs $1.12 per yard of cloth. From our figures the American conversion cost — from the yarn to the finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,382 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1,503 per yard. Of this conversion cost 20.5 cents per yard is for labor. The weaving rate for two-loom work ranges from 6.2 cents to 6.82 cents per yard on the newer type of looms to 7 cents on the older looms; 6.4 cents may be taken as the typical weaving rate. English mills. — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: Taking $0.7206 per pound as the jprice of the yarn entering into this cloth gives $0.7552 as the cost of the yarn material in a finished yard. TThe conversion cost is $0.16 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0.9152 per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.6 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and on 135-pick looms a weaver will produce 113 yards per loom per week of 55 J hours. German miUs. — On a cloth very similar to the sample in construc- tion, but carrying a somewhat higher grade of fimsh, our figures show that the cost in a German mill was as follows: The stock material cost $0,806 per yard of finished cloth; the man- ufacturing cost was $0.23, making a total factory cost of $1,036 per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw was 2.89 cents on two-loom work, the weaving expense per finished yard being 3.6 cents. The finishing cost on this goods was 11.8 cents per yard, but, as noted above, this was on a somewhat higher standard of finishing. It is two-loom work, and on 75-pick looms a weaver will produce 35.6 yards per day and earn $1.03. Sample No. ^8, Men's unfinished worsted, 56 inches wide, weighing 14 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 5,100 warp ends on a reed width of 77 inches, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. There are 66 picks to the inch in the raw, shrinking to 63 in the finished cloth, the warp is 2-ply worsted yarn No. 45, and the weft is single 22. It is piece dyed. American mills, — The average cost of the warp yam is $1,064 per pound; of the weft yam, $0,892 per pound. The average cost of. the yarn in the cloth is $0,987 per pound, and as 0.97 of a pound of yarn is required to produce a finished yard of cloth, the yarn material cost for a yard of cloth is $0,957. From our figures the American conversion cost — ^from yarn to fin- ished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,392, making a total cloth cost of $1,349. Of this conversion cost 19.1 cents per yard is for labor. The weaving rate is 6 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom work, and on 110-pick looms a weaver will, without extraordinary delays, produce 18 yards per loom per day. English mills, — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: The cost of the yarn material for a finished yard of cloth is $0.6266. This is based on wool of a 2-ply 46 warp and a single 22 weft. The manufacturing cost is $0.1924 per yard, making a total cloth cost of ' .8190 per yard. 684 BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The weaving rate on this sample is 2.582 cents per yard. It is two- loom work, usually put on 135-pick looms, and on such looms a weaver will produce 116 yards per loom per week of 65 i hours. French mms. — Our figures show the cost in France on tliis fabric to be as follows: The yam material cost is $0.4794 per yard of finished cloth; the conversion cost is $0.2288, making a total cloth cost of $0.7082 per yard. The weaving rate is 2.74 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and an average weaver will produce on the more up-to-date looms, or in other words in the better mills, 38 vards in a day. German miMs, — Our figures show the cost in Germany on a fabric of similar construction to be as Jollows: The yarn material for a finished yard was $0.81 . The manufactur- ing cost, including all charges for general expense, depreciation, etc., was $0.25 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1.06 per yard. The weaver's rate for two-looni work was 3.04 cents per yard, or 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks. This is on 100-pick looms, and a weaver will produce 34 yards of cloth in a day of 10 hours. In Aachen, wliicli is a one-loom district, the one-loom weaving rate on this cloth is 2.618 cents per 1,000 picks, or 6.5 cents per yard. A weaver on the better, or 90-pick looms, will fjroduce 22 yards in a day. Belgian weaving rates, — ^At Verviers, Belgium, the one-loom rate is 6.13 cents per yard. On the slow looms of this district a weaver will produce 17 yards ina day of 1 1 hours. Sample No. 49. Men's serge, 56 inches wide, weighing 13 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 4,280 warp ends on a reed width of 69 inches, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. There are 58 picks, or weft threads, to the inch. The yam for both warp and weft IS 2-ply worsted yarn No. 38. It is piece-dyed. American milk. — The average cost of the stock yam material is $1.04 per pound, and 0.9 of a pound of material is required to pro- duce a finished yard of cloth, making a total stock cost of $0,936 per yard. From our figures, the American conversion cost — from yam to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,396, including gen- eral expense, making a total cloth cost of $1,332 per yard. Analyzmg this conversion cost of 39.6 cents, it is found that 21.3 cents per yard is for labor. The weaver's rate is 5.6 cents per loom yard. It is two-loom work in American mills, and a weaver on 110-pick looms will produce,, with- out unusual delajrs, 23 yards per loom per day. English mills. — Our figures show the cost in England on a fabric of similar structure but less expensive finish to be as follows: The yams used were two-ply Botany wool No. 38, and the yam material cost $0.6129 per yard of finished cloth. The manufacturing cost is $0.1512, giving a total cloth cost of $0.7641 per finished yard. The weaver's rate is 2.657 cents jper yard. It is two-loom work, and on 135-pick looms a weaver will produce 136 yards per loom per week. »ORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 685 French, mifh. — Our figures show the cost in France on this fabric to be as follows: The cost of the yam material per yard of finished cloth is taken as $0.5931. The manufacturing cost is $0.1428, making a total cloth cost of $0.7359 per yard. Analysing the manufacturing cost it is found that 10.74 cents per yard is direct labor cost, while 3.54 cents is general expense. The weaver's rate on this sample in Roubaix, France, is 2.329 cents per yard. It is two-loom work, and a weaver will ordinarily produce 43 yards per day on two looms. German miUs. — The cost of a very similar cloth was secured from a German mill, the principal difference in the two cloths being that the German cloth was yarn dyed, and not piece dyed, so that the dyeing cost is in the material and not in the conversion cost, and while this would not affect the total it would raise the material cost 5 or 6 cents per yard of cloth. The yam cost is $0,759; the conversion cost is 0.246 cents, per yard; making a total factory cost of $1,005 per yard. The character of the finish on this cloth is exceptionally high, the finishing cost alone being 10.8 cents per yard. The weaving rate is 1 .52 cents per 1,000 picks, or 3.08 cents per yard at the loom. It is two-loom work, and on 100-pick looms a weaver will produce 34 yards of cloth per day. Foreign weaving rates. — The weaving rate on this sample in the Gera district of Germany is 3 cents per yard for two-loom work, these being 120-pick looms. A weaver will produce 42 yards in 10 hours under good conditions. At Spermberg, a one-loom district, the rate varies from 4.7 cents to 5.2 cents per yard, according to the speed of the loom. At Aachen the one-loom rate is 4.97 cents per yard and the two- loom rate is 3.48 cents per yard. The Cottbus rate on this sample, one 80-pick loom work, is 6 cents per yard in the raw, and a weaver on such loom will ordinarily produce 19 yards in a day. At Verviers, Belgium, the weaver's rate on this sample is 5.6 cents per yard, one-loom work on 70-pick looms. Sample No. 50. Men's fancy worsted suitings, 56 inches wide, weighing 12 ounces to the yard : The actual loom analysis shows 4,401 warp ends on a reed width of 66 inches; 4,301 are worsted yarn 2-ply No. 40; 100 ends are silk partly 2/18 and partly 2/72. There are 64 picks to the inch, of 2-ply worsted yarn No. 40. One-half, or 32 picks, are hard twisted. It is woven from yarn-dyed material. American mills. — It requires 0.931 of a pound of the material de- scribed above to make a yard of the finished cloth. Taking the stock material cost at $1,121, which was the average for all establishments reporting, the stock cost for a yard of cloth is $1,044. From our figures, the American conversion cost — from yarn to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,402 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1,446 per yard. Analysing this conversion cost it is found that 25.3 cents per yard is for labor, the weaving expense being 14 cents per finished yard. The weaver's rate in the raw ranges from 10.1 cents to 11.6 cents per 686 BEPOBT OF TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SOHEDUI^E K. 687 yard, .10.4 cents being the usual and typical rate for one-loom work. On one 104-pick loom a weaver will produce 21 yards in a day. Gemmn miUs, — On a cloth of a similar construction in a German mill, the cost of the yam material for a yard of the finished cloth was $0.89. The conversion cost was $0,278, making a total factory cost of $1,168 per yard. Of the 27.8 cents conversion cost, 6.3427 cents was weaving cost per finished yard, the loom rate being 5.76 cents. Mending and burlmg cost 2.178 cents, and finisliing 10.6 cents per yard. The character of the finish on the German cloth was somewhat better than that of the sample. This was woven on one 75-pick loom, and the weaver produced 19.7 yards per day. If woven on 100-pick looms in the same establishment the weaver's rate per yard in the raw would be 5.01 cents. Weaver's rates on this sample were secured from other German centers. At Aachen one firm pays 6 cents, another firm pays 6.58 cents per yard for one loom work. The average output of a good weaver in the Aachen mills is 21.8 yards per day of 10 hours. At Cot thus, on slower looms, the rate given was 7.6 cents, 17 to 19 yards being produced per weaver per day. Foreign weaving rates.^The weaver's rate in RoubaLx, France, is 5.294 cents per yard for one-loom work, and a weaver will produce 21.8 yards per dav of 10 hours. In Verviers, Belgium, where these goods are produced on one loom and slower looms, the rate is 7.34 cents per yard, and a good weaver will produce 16 yards per day. Sample No. 51, Men's worsted, 56 inches wide, weighing 17 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 7,620 warp ends on a reed 66 inches wide, including selvage, shrinking to 56 inches in the finished cloth. The warp is smgle-thread worsted yarn No. 30, and the weft is single 12's worsted yam. There are 64 picks to the inch in the raw, or on the loom, fuUing to 68 in the finished cloth. It is piece dyed. American m^2fe.— The yarn material cost for a yard of finished cloth IS $1,186, 1.3 pounds of yarn being requked for a yard of cloth. From our figures, tlie American conversion cost — from yarn to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,603 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1,789 per yard. The labor cost is 31.3 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 3.5 cents per 1,000 picks, or 8.05 cents per yard at the loom. It is one-loom work. The weaving cost per finished yard, that is to say after the shrinking, is 9.1 cents. German miZfo.— Our figures show the cost in German mills on a sunilar fabric to be as follows: The cloth taken for comparison in this case was of such similar construction that the variations would not materially affect the cost. It IS, for instance, 58.5 inches vnde, weighs 17.5 ounces to the yard, has 7,950 warp ends on a reed width of 66 inches, and has 69 picks to the mch. Taking this, then, for comparison, we find that the material costs $0,865 per yard, the manufacturing costs $0.32 per yard, making a net factory cost of $1,185. Tliis includes all allowances for depreciation and general expense, but not the cost of selhng the product. The cost of selling, which is not included in the American cost, is eliminated here for purposes of comparison; it amounts to 5.45 cents per yard, making a cloth cost of $1.24 per yard, sold but not delivered. The net selling price at the mill is $1.42 per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.45 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.635 cents per yard as a one-loom rate on 100-pick looms, and working on suck a loom a weaver will produce 18 yards per day of 10 hours. In Aachen, Germany, the one-loom rate is 6 cents per yard on looms running from 90 to 100 picks, and a weaver was said to produce 19 yards in a day. French weaving rate. — In Roubaix, France, the weaver's rate on tliis sample is 4.94 cents per yard on one-loom work, and a weaver will produce from 19 to 20 yards in a day. Sample No. 5^. Silk mixed worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 14.2 ounces to the yard, yarn dyed and London shrunk: The actual loom analysis shows 7,744 warp ends on a reed width of 66 inches. Of the warp ends, 3,872 are of 2-ply worsted yarn No. 60; 3,124 are silk twist 2/60 and single size; 178 ends are of 2-ply 48 worsted yarn; and 572 ends are of 30/2 silk. The weft is 2-ply worsted yam No. 48, and there are 62 picks to the inch. American mills. — The stock material described above costs an average of $1.48 per pound, and as 1.016 pounds of material is required to produce a yard of the finished goods, the stock cost per yard is $1,504. From our figures, the American conversion cost — from yarn to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,632 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $2,136 per yard. Analyzing this con- version cost it is found that 37 cents per 3'ard is for labor. The typical weave-room expense is 16.5 cents per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw ranges from 11 cents to 13.5 cents, 12.5 cents being the typical rate. It was one-loom work. English mills. — Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follo^^'E: The yarns going to make up the warp of this cloth as described in a preceding paragraph have an average cost of $1.03 per pound; the weft yarn costs $0,892 per pound. The weight or the warp' yarn used is not ouite twice tnat of the weft yam, but applying the proportions of eacn that go to make the 1.016 pounds of yarn neces- sary to produce a yard or the cloth, it gives a stock cost per yard of finished cloth of $1.0197. The conversion cost is $0.2376, making a total cost of $1,257 per yard. The weaver's rate per yard in the raw is 7.3 cents. It is one-loom work, and on a Dobby 150-pick loom a weaver will produce 91 yards in a week of 55| hours, and earn $6.64. Foreign weaving rates. — The weavers' rates on this sample in other parts of Europe were found to be as follows: In Verviers, Belgium, the one-loom rate is 7.75 cents per yard. In Aachen, Germanv, on slow looms, the rate is 7.43 cents per Jrard, and a weaver will produce 16 yards in a day of 10 hours. On 00ms of 100 picks or more per minute the rate is 6.37 cents per yard in Aachen, and a weaver will produce from 19 to 21 yards m a" day of 10 hours. si 688 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD OF SCHEDULE K. Sample No. 53, Men's imlinished worsted, 58 inches wide, weij^Iiing 14.5 ounces to the yard: The actual loom analysis shows 11,760 warp ends on a reed width of 75 inches, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished clotli. The warp is 2-ply worsted yam No. 85. The weft is a single yam No. 45, and tliere are 1 1 picks to the inch. It is piece dyed ' American milh.—Th& weight of the warp per yard of clotli is 0.6 of a pound; the weft, 0.4 of a pound, making 1 pound of yam material to a yard of finished cloth. The average cost of the warp yam per pound, as shown on the schedules, was $1.70; of the weft yarn, $1.30. The yam material for a yard of cloth costs therefore #1 .54. From our figures, the American conversion cost—from yam to tinisiied cloth-~on this fabric may be taken as $0,693 T)er yard, makmi? a total cloth cost of $2,233 per yard. ^ Analyzing this conversion cost it is found that 39.8 cents per yard IS labor cost. ^ Tlie weaving rate on this sample is 19 cents per yard, one-loom Work. English milh.— Our figures show the cost in England on this fabric to be as follows: -.«To^ ^*^™ material costs $0.8946 per yard; the conversion cost is *^J?^ R®^ T*^^^^' making a total cloth cost of $1,234 per yard. Ihe English weaver^s rate is 10.1 cents per yard. It is one-loom work, and on a 130-pick loom a weaver will produce 59 yards in a week of 55J hours, and earn $5.96. French miUs.^Our figures show the cost in France on this fabric to be as follows: The cost of the yam material is $0.80 ppr yard of cloth in the raw. ihe manufacturing cost is $0.3119, making a total of $1.1119 per woven yard, as is the custom in tlie French system of costing, the shnnkage bnngmg the cost of the finished yard of cloth up to $1,223. .. oo® weaving rate is 3.72 cents per 1,000 picks on slow looms, or 14.88 cents per loom yard. The weaving cost on a finished yard is 15.42 cents. This is for one-loom work. The weaver's rate on this sample at Roubaix, France, is 9.4 cents per yard for two-loom work. It is, however, generally one-loom work. '' German milfe.— -Our figures show tlie cost in Germany, on a cloth of very similar constmction but somewhat higher grade of finish, to be as follows: The cost of the yam material is $0.9795 per yard; the cost of con- version is $0,417 per yard, making a total factory cost of $1.3965 per yard. ^ Analyzing the conversion cost, it is found that the weaving rate per yard in the loom is 10.52 cents for one-loom work, making a weaving cost of 13.8 cents per yard of finished cloth. The fimshing, wliich, as stated above, is of a very high order, costs 14.3 cents per yard. When woven on one 75-pick loom the rate is, as stated, 10.52 cents per yard, or 2.63 cents per 1,000 picks. A weaver will produce 10 yards per daj, or 4,000 picks per hour, and earn slightly over 10 cents per hour. The two-loom rate in the same German mill is 1.79 cents BEPORT OF T.\EIFF BOAED 01^ SCHEDULE K. 689 for 1,000 picks, or 7.16 cents per yard, always on 75-pick looms, aster looms are not used in tliis mill on goods hke the sample. As this sample is not made on two looms in the United States, the comparison here is 4.5 cents per 1,000 picks, or 19 cents per yard, in the United States, as against 2.63 cents per 1,000 picks, or 10.52 cents peryard, in the German mill. Weaver's rates on this sample were secured in other parts of Ger- many, namely, Spermberg and Aaclien. This grade of clotli is made in Aachen on 100-pick looms as one-loom work, and the rate is 10.4 cents per yard. A weaver will ordinarily produce 9.6 yards per day of 10 hours, earning $1 per day. At Spcu'mberg the slower looms (67 to. 75 picks per minute) are used on goods like the sample, and the rate is 9.9 cents per yard. On these looms 9 yards is considered a good day's work. Belgian weaving rate. — At Verviers, Belgium, the one-loom rate on slow looms is 14.5 cents per yard, 7 yards being an average output for an 11 -hour day. Sample No. 5 4. Worsted cheviot, having a finished width of 57.5 inches, weighing' 12.2 ounces to the yard, yarn dved: The actual loom analysis shows 2,748 warp ends on a reed width of 72 inches. Of these warp ends, 2,692 are 2-ply worsted yam No. 28 and 56 are of silk 17/2. The weft is of 2-ply worsted yam No. 28, and there are 47 picks to the inch. American mills.-Tho amount of the yarn necessary to produce a yard of this cloth is stated to be 0.868 of a pound, and since the average cost of this stock for all mills reporting was $0,909, the yam stock cost per yard of finished cloth is $0.79. From our figures the American conversion cost — from yam to finished cloth — on this fabric may be taken as $0,417, making a total cloth cost of $1,207 per yard. Analyzing this conversion cost it is found that 24.5 cents per yard is for labor. The weaving expense is 12 cents per finished yard. The weaver's rate for one-loom work ranges from 8 cents to 9.9 cents, the typical rate being 9.3 cents per 3"ard in the raw. It is ordinarily one-loom work, only one establishment reporting producing this as two-loom work, and here the rate was 4 cents a yard. A weaver in an American mill on 106-pick loom will produce without extra- ordinary delays or waits for yarn 28 to 30 yards in a day. Foreign weaving rates. — Weavers' rates on this sample were secured ill various parts of Europe as follows: In England the weaver's rate is 4.2 cents per yard in the raw for one-loom work. A weaver on one 110-pick Dobby loom will produce 147 yards in a week of 55i hours and earn $6.17. The one-loom rate in Roubaix, France, is 4.4 cents per yard, and on one loom of the type prevaihng in that district a weaver will produce 25 yards in a day and cam $1.10. The one-loom rate in Verviers, Belgium, is 5.3 cents per yard, the weaver earning $1 per day on this goods. The rate in Cottbus, Germany, is 5.3 cents per yard, and a weaver on one loom will produce 21 yards, or, in exceptional cases, 23.5 yards per day of 10 liours. At Forst, Germany, tlie rate on 80-pick looms was 4.8 cents per yard; on 100-pick looms, 4 cents per yard. On the slow looms 690 "D'K'Timj'T' m? TA'RT'PT? TlAAnTV fYKT Ktr'TTTi'TlTTT TO tF REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 691 23.6 yards was considered a good day's work, and the output on the speedier looms was approximately one-fifth more per day. At Spermberg, Germany, one firm was paymg 4.027 cents per yard and another firm was paying 4.228 cents per yard on substantiallj' the same character of looms. This sample was found to be woven as one-loom work in all the countries of Europe visited, and in all but one plant investigated in the United States, in which, as indicated above, it was two-loom work. The weaver's rates for one-loom work in all the countries visited except Belgium are practically one-half that paid in the typical mill in the United States. On the slow looms in Verviers and Cottbus the rate is shghtly more than one-half the American rate. Sample No. 55. A fancy woolen cloth, 56 inches wide weighing 16.1 ounces to the yard. The actual loom analysis shows 2,372 warp ends on a 74- inch width of reed, the cloth shrmking to 56 inches in the process of finisliing. Of these warp ends, 2,132 are of 2| run woolen yarn; *240 ends are of twisted woolen 6-nm yarn with silk 2-ply yarn No. 40. The Weft is of 2f run woolen yam, and there are 39 picks to the inch. ATnerican miUs.-It requires 1.2 pounds of yam material to make a yard of the cloth; the average stock cost per pound is $0.49, making a total stock cost of $0,588 per yard of cloth. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 28.1 cents per yard, making a total cloth cost of $0,869 per yard. The labor cost is 16.7 cents per yard; the weaving expense is 11 cents per finished yard. The weaver's rate is 7.6 cents per yard in the raw, and a weaver on a 96-pick loom wiU produce, without extraordinary delays, 23 yards in 10 hours. English mills. — ^In England the wcaver^s rate is 3.12 cents per yard in the raw, and the total weave-room expense is 4.32 cents per yard of finished cloth. It is one-loom work, and a weaver on a 75-pick loom will produce 135 yards in a week of 55 J houi-s. Foreign weaving rates. — The weaver's rate on this cloth in Roubaix, France, is 3.17 cents per yard in the raw. It is one-loom work, and a weaver wiU produce 27 yards in a day of 10 hours. In Spermberg, Germany, the weaver's rate on this sample is 3.5 cents per yard on 90-pick Jooms, and a weaver will produce from 28 to 30 vards in 10 hours. In f'orst, Germany, on looms of less than 80 picks, such as were UsuaUy employed on 'this work, the one-loom rate is' 4.2 cents per yard, and 25 yards was considered a good day's work. In Crimmitschau, the weaver's rate is 4.5 cents per yard, the daily output 27 yards. • Cards containing samples of all tlie clotJis just descrihed, and giving details of construction, are included in this report, and accompany it, for the use of Congress, I SUMMARY OF CONVERSION" COSTS. The accompanying table presents a summary of the information given in detail in relation to these samples of cloth. It shows con- version cost from yam to finished cloth in the different countries and compares the American cost with that for the same cloth in England and France, and the cost of similar cloth in Germany; Conversion cost ^ from yarn to finished cloth. I Sample No. Kind of doth. American. English (same cloth). t0 French (same cloth). German (similar cloth). 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 21 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 63 F G F G F F F E C F C B C c E E E C B E C B B G C G E C B D C C E I) E B A D B E A B E A I> A A A B ?:;:::;: D A 10.080 .083 .089 .106 .118 .127 .132 .133 .145 .165 .165 .168 .174 .178 .190 .212 .212 .213 .215 .216 .217 .222 .210 .2-15 .249 .250 .254 .2.-8 .265 .282 .290 .291 .293 .294 .300 .300 .311 .320 .359 .360 .362 .364 .365 .370 .386 .382 .392 .396 .402 .603 . .632 .693 to. 0401 .0415 .0488 .065 .0556 .0572 .0614 .0661 .0689 .0698 .081 .0777 .0863 .0777 .0853 .1107 .1067 .094 .091 .1034 .089 .1193 .104 .0985 .1136 .109 . 1013 .098 $0. 0054 .esi4 . 083 - .0866 .1485 1 1 1 j 1 . 1255 . 1022 .117 .1114 .1073 .1357 .1207 .134 .1328 .1531 .154 .1436 .1165 .1743 ?0.221 .2053 .152 .1458 .2047 .1812 .241 .1877 .1671 .1861 .16 .1924 .1512 .23 .25 .246 .278 .32 .2288 .1428 .2376 .339 .3119 .417 A. Staples afid piece dyes. B. Serges. C. Fancy woolens. X>. Fancy wocstads. E. Woman's wear. F. Light weight women's wear. G. Cotton waip. 692 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDULE K. 693 The following table separates the different types of fabrics hereto- fore described and gives the comparative conversion cost separately for each type: ^ . , . t ,1. C(mver»ion cost, from yam iofinuhed cloth, STAPLES AND PIECE DYES. Conversion costt from yam to finished cloth- COTTON WARPS. -Continued. Sample Nc. American. Englisli (same cloth). French (same cloth). German (similar cloth). 37 41 44 46 47 48 51 53 SO. 300 .360 .365 .386 .382 .392 .(503 .693 SO. 1436 .2053 .1877 .1861 .16 .1924 .1812 ."2288" 10.23 .25 .32 .417 .339 .3119 h D E i\ Cf lli H . 12 SO. 168 19 .215 22 .222 23 .235 29 .258 36 .300 39 .320 42 .362 40 .396 SO. 0777 .091 .1193 .104 .154 .152 .1512 SO.0C3 .1022 .1743 .1458 .1428 SO. 241 .246 Sample No. American . English (same cloth). French (same cloth). German (similar cloth). 2 4 24 26 10.083 .106 .240 .249 SO. 0415 .065 .0985 .109 The following table shows what proportion is labor cost of the con- version cost of turning cloth into yarn, taking up smgly the samples of American fabrics heretofore considered: AMERICAN MANUFACTURE. Comparative conversion and labor cost, from yarn to finished chth. FANCY WOOLENS. 9 10.145 SO. 0689 11 .165 .081 13 .174 .0863 14 .178 .0777 18 .213 .094 21 .217 .089 25 .245 .1136 28 .254 .098 31 .2819 .1114 32 .290 .1078 134 FANCY WORSTEDS. 30 34 38 45 50 52 .285 .293 .311 .370 .402 .632 .117 .1207 .1165 .1671 to 1.128 S0.278 .2376 Sample No. WOMEN'S WEAR. 8 15 16 17 20 27 33 35 40 43 SO. 133 .190 .212 .212 .216 .250 .291 .294 .a59 .364 SO. 0661 .0853 .1107 .1067 .ia34 .1043 .1357 SO. 0866 .1486 .1255 .1531 SO. 221 .•••«■••••• .2047 LIGHT-WEIGHT WOMEN'S WEAR. SO. 0401 .0488 .0556 .0572 .0614 .0608 SO. 0654 .0814 1 2 3 4 5 C 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 Kind of cloth. F G F G F F F E C F C B C C E E E C B E C B B G C G E C B D C C E D E B A D B E A B.... E A.... D.... A.... A.... A.... B.... D.... A.... D.... A.... C... C... Conversion cost. SO. 080 .083 .089 .106 .118 .127 .132 .133 .145 .165 .165 .168 .174 .178 .190 .212 .212 .213 .215 .216 .217 .222 .235 .240 .245 .249 .250 .254 .258 .265 .282 .290 .291 .293 .294 .300 .300 .311 .320 .359 .360 .362 .364 .365 .370 .386 .382 .392 .396 .402 .003 .632 .693 .417 .281 Labor cost. $0,052 .058 .050 .062 .074 .078 .092 .082 .107 .088 .100 .095 .121 .095 .103 .133 .110 .130 .119 .110 .134 .109 .154 .170 .154 .158 .123 .150 .145 .179 .155 .180 .172 .161 .160 .178 .136 .169 .190 .199 .131 .215 .178 .211 .275 .227 .205 .191 .213 .253 .313 .370 .398 .245 .167 I. A. staples and piece dyes. E. Women's wear. B. Serges. F. Light-weight WQ- C. Fancy wooleas. men's wear. D. Fancy worsteds. G. Cotton warp. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, G2-2, vol 2 6 694 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. GUIIMAN AND AMERICAH CX>8TS. BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 695 The immediately preceding section of tliis report deals with Ameri- can and foreign costs on fabrics made in the United States. This is now supplemented with costs on foreign-made goods of the type wliich we import. In the one case we haye sliown the cost on American goods if made abroad. In the following section is shown, on such fabrics as we import, first, the cost of production in the foreign mill making the goods; secondly; the cost of these imported goods it made in American mills. For this purpose a number of high-grade, finely finished foreign samples, made in German mills, were submitted with the foreign-loom analysis to a niunber of American mills for estimates on the cost of producmg the same fabrics in their own mills. In other words, the same methods were adopted to secure American costs on German fabrics as had been used m securing American and foreign costs on American samples; and for this purpose German fabrics of first-class material and liiglirgrade finish — ^such as are more commonly imported — were utilized. The estimates of American mills on these cloths were based upon a full analysis; the character of the finish was shown by actual samples. In aO cases the conyersion cost is the cost from yarn to finished cloth. The results are submitted below: Sample A, Men's worsted suiting, 58 inches wide, weighing 12.6 ounces to the yard. Tlie actual loom analysis shows 4,200 warp ends of 2-ply worsted yarn No. 46 on a reed width of 72 inches, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished cloth. It is slub or top dyed. The weft j;am is a twist of No. 28 and No. 46 worsted yam, and there are 55 picks to the inch, or 1,980 picks to the yard. German miUs. — Our figiKes show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows: . The yam stock cost is $0,782 per yard of finished cloth. The manufacturing or conversion cost is $0,283 per yard, making a total cost of $1,065 per yard. The selling expense is 5.431 cents per yard, making a total cost of the goods sold of $1,119. The net seUing price of the goods at the factory is $1.25 per yard. The weaving expense is 6.66 cents per yard; the finishing expense is 10.887 cents per yard of cloth. The weaver's rate |>er yard in the raw is 5.19 cents, or 2.62 cents per 1,000 picks. It is one-loom work. Tlie sample submitted was made as one-loom work. On a 75-pick loom an average weaver in the mill will produce 20 yards in a day and earn $1.04. It should be noted, however, that on 100-pick looms the one-loom rate for the same fabric is 2.28 cents per 1,000 picks; the two-loom rate for 75-pick looms is 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks; and the two-loom rate on lOO-pjick looms is 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks. This last is the rate with wliich to compare the American rate. American mills. — The yarn stock cost per yard of finished cloth on this sample is $1,215 in an American mill. From our figures the American conversion cost, from yam to fin- ished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as $0,495 per yard. This includes selling expense, making a total cost of the cloth sold of $1.71 per yard. The weave-room expense per finished yard is 5.9 cents; the finisliing cost is 19.9 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.6 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.2 cents per yard in the raw on two-loom work. The German factory cost is $1,065, or, including seUing expense, $1,119 per yard; the American cost is $1.71. Tlie German selling price is $1.25 net f. o. b. mill. The present tariff is $1.02 per yard. Sample B, Men's worsted suitins:, 58 inches wide, weighing 14.8 ounces to the yard. The actual loom analysis shows 4,200 warp ends on a reexl width of 72 inches. The warp is of 2-ply 46's and a 28 and 46 twisted together. The weft is a 28 and a 46 yam twisted together. There are 55 picks to the inch. German rmlls. — Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows: The yam stock cost per yard of finished cloth is $0.8908. The manufacturing or conversion cost, including general expense, but exclusive of selling expense, is $0.2776 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,168 per yard. The selling and administrative expense is 5.43 cents per yard, making a cost of $1,222 for this cloth finished and sold. The net selling price f. o. b. mill is $1.34 per yard. The weave-room expense is 6.34 cents per yard; the finishing expense is 10.6 cents per yard. The weaver's one 75-pick loom rate in the raw is 2.62 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.19 cents per yard. On one-loom work and on one 75-pick loom a weaver will produce 20 yards in a day. The two-loom rate on 75-pick looms is 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks, or 3.4 cents per yard. The 100-pick loom rate is 2.28 cents per 1,000 picks for one loom, and 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks for two-loom work. Since there are essentiaUv 2,000 picks in a yard, the yardaore rate would be twice this amount. American mills. — The cost of the yarn stock per yard of finished cloth in an American mill is $1.36. From our figures the American conversion cost, from yam to finished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as $0.50 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1.86 per yard. The weave-room cost is 10.25 cents per yard. The weaver's two-loom rate is 6.7 cents per yard in the raw. The German cost on this sample at the factory is $1,168 per yard; the American cost, as shown by the estimate above, is $1.86 per yard. The German selling price f. o. b. mill is $1.34. The present import duty on this cloth is $1.13 per yard. Sample C. Black drape worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 13.5 ounces to the yard. It is piece dyed. The actual loom analysis shows 10,725 warp ends on a reed width of 72 inches, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished cloth. The warp is 2-ply worsted yarn No. 85. The weft is single 43 's worsted yarn, and there are 91 picks to the inch. German mills. — Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows: The yarn-stock cost of material entering into this cloth is $0.9795. The total conversion cost is 48.85 cents per yard, making a total I'l 696 BEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOABD 02^ SCHEDULE K. factory cost of 11.468 per yard exclusive of administrative and selling expense. These add 5.43 cents per yard, making a total cost of the goods sold II .522 ; the price net at the mill is $1 .60. The weave-room cost on this sample is 11.8 cents per yard, finishing is 14.3 cents per yard, and piece dyeing 4.7 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.69 cents per 1,000 picks, or 8.81 cents per yard in the raw. As one-loom work and on a 75-pick loom a weaver will produce 12 yards in a day. This cloth is never put on looms run- ning at a high speed in the factory making the sample. However, when a weaver operates two looms, the rate on this cloth is 1.79 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.86 cents per yard. American miUs, — The yarn stock cost per yard of finished cloth is $1,462 in an American mill. From our figures the American conver- sion cost from yarn to finished cloth on the fabric mav be taken as 78.42 cents per yard, including administrative and selHng expense, making a total cost of goods at the factory, but sold, of $2.2462. The weave room cost is 13.4 cents per yard; the finishing cost is 22 cents peryard, and piece-dyeing cost is 8.9 cents per jrard. The weaving rate is 3.35 cents per 1,000 picks, or 10.97 cents per yard in the raw. This in the United States would always be one-loom work, and it is doubtful whether looms of over 90 picks would be used on such material; on such a loom 15 to 17 yards would be a good day's work for a weaver. Bnefly, the German cost on this sample is $1,468 as a factory cost. $1,522 including selling expense, with a selling price at the mill of $1.60 per yard. The American cost, including selling expense, is $2^462. The present tariff duty on this cloth is $1.25 per yard. Sample D, Men's fine worsted cloth, 58 inches wide, weighing 16.4 ounces to the yard. It is piece-dyed: The actual loom analysis shows 7,800 warp ends on a 69-inch reed, shrinking to 58 inches in the fin- ished cloth. The warp is of single-ply worsted 31s yam left twist. The filling is woolen yarn, single ply Hi, and* there are 58 picks to the inch. ..... German miUs, — Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabnc to be as foUows: The yarn material for this sample costs $0,838. The conversion cost is 43.6 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,274 per yard. The administrative and seUing expense is 10.8 cents per yard, making a total cost of the goods sold, but at the factory, of $1,382. That the administrative and selling expense here includes a profit is evidenced by the fact that tliis gives a cost price precisely equal to the seUing price at the mill. Tliis rate of 10.8 cents for administrative and selling expense is just tmco the general cost of this item as %ured on most of the goods produced by the mill. If we give the imll the average of selling^ and administrative cost, it would be a total cost here of $1,328. The net selling price is $1.38. The weave room expense is 6.83 cents per yard; the finisliing cost is 18.4 cents per yard; the piece-dyeing cost is 5.9 cents per vard. The weaver*s rate in the loom is 2.62 cents per thousand picks, or 5.47 cents per yard in the raw. It is one-loom work, and an average weaver will produce 18.7 yards per day of 10 hours on a 75-pick ^i-i. iiati iJiTl REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. * '^'ni versify loom. Fast looms are not commonly used on this sample, nor is this cloth usually made as two-loom work. A weaver, however might operate two looms, one running on this cloth, another on an easier weave, in which case the rate would be 1.74 cents per 1 000 picks, or 3.63 cents per yard. American 7mUs.~The yarn stock cost of material for a yard of this sample in an American mill is $1.4433. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to finished cloth on this fabric, exclusive of selling expense but including general expense, may be ^ken as 71 cents per yard, making a total cost of $2.1533 per yard. The sellmg expense being estimated at 8 cents per yard, the cost of this fabric at the factory, but sold, is $2.2333. The weave room expense is 7.4 cents per yard of finished cloth; the fini«Tiing expense 21.2 cents, and piece dyeing 12.8 cents peryard. The weaver's rate is 3 cents per thousand picks, or 6.26 cents pep yard in the raw. Tliis is a two-loom rate, comparable with the 3.48 cents per yard rate in German mills. On two looms a weaver will produce 25 yards in a day. Summarizing, the German cost on this sample is $1,274 as a factory cost; $1,328 sold. The net selling price is $1.38. The Americai cost, includmg selling expense, is $2.2333. The present tariff duty on this cloth is $1.21 per yard. Sam-ple E. This is a fancy worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 15.5 ounces to the yard. It is yarn dyed, or wool dyed. The actual loom analysis shows 3,750 warp ends on a reed ^idth of 68 inches. The warp is two-ply worsted yam number 46 and two-ply worsted yam number 28 twisted together. The weft is of the same character of yams, and there are 51 picks to the inch, 1,836 picks to the yard. German mills.^Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabnc to be as follows: The yarn material costs $0,829 per yard of cloth. The conversion cost IS $0,246 peryard, making a total factory cost of $1,075 peryard. 1 he sellmg expense is 5.4 cents per yard, making the total cost of the goods sold but not dehvered $1,129 per yard. The seUing price- 1 \ ' ^^ ^^ ^^ .36 per yard. The weaving cost per yard of finished cloth IS 4.7 cents, the finishing cost is 10.9 cents per yard. The weaver's rate in this case was 2.45 cents per 1,000 picks, or 4 5 cents per yard as a single loom rate on a 100-pick loom. A weaver ®^ s"^^^ f ^?^F^ ^^^ produce 23 yards in a day of 10 hours. Ilus cloth IS woven indiscrinunately as one or tv/o loom work and ^^ ^? ^L-^^^ ?^^^ ^^^^^- "^^^ ^'^^® ^^ ^^e 75-pick loom is 2.81 cents per 1,000 picks; on two 75-pick looms, 1.88 cents per 1,000 picks. Ihe rate on one 100-pick loom is 2.45 cents per 1,000 picks: on two 100-pick looms, 1.64 cents per 1,000 picks. American miUs,— The cost of the yam material enteiins into this cloth IS $1.15. ^ • i.'^T^ ^i"^ figures the American conversion cost, from yam to fin- ished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as $0.4126 per yard making a total cloth cost of $1 .5626 per yard. The weaving cost per finished yard is 7.6 cents. 698 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The weaYer's rate per yard in the raw is 7.3 cents. This would ordiiiaiil^r be one-loom work, and a weaver would ordinarily produce 25 yards in a day. Briefly, the German factory cost on this sample is $1,075 per yard, or, sold and ready for delivery, $1 .129 per yard. The f . o. b. mill price is $1.36. The American cost is $1.5626 per yard. The present tarii! duty on this cloth m $1.16 per yard. Samph F. This is a men's heavy blue serge, 57 inches wide, weighing 17.7 ounces to the yard. It is wool dyed. The actual loom analysis shows 3,200 warp ends on a reed width of 70 inches, shrinking to 67 inches in the finished cloth. The warp is 2-ply worsted yarn, No. 22. The weft is of the same material, and there are 51 picks to the inch, or 1,836 picks to the yard. German mills. — Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as foDows: The yarn stock material costs $0.9714 per yard. The conversion cost is $0.3698 per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,341 per yard. Administrative cost and selling expense add 5.4 cents to this, making a cost of $1,395 per yard of cloth sold but not delivered. The net selling price is $1.57 -per yard. The weave-room expense is 5.147 cents per yard; the finishing cost is 20.8 cents per yard. The weaver's one-loom rate on 75-j)ick looms is 2.57 cents per 1,000 picks, or 4.72 cents per yard of cloth in the raw. The average weaver will produce 22 yards in a day. Only 75-pick looms are used in the manufacture of this cloth, but where a weaver is operating two 75- pick looms, whether or not both are being operated upon tliis particu- lar kind of cloth, the rate is 1.71 cents per 1,000 picks, or 3.14 cents per yard. American miHs.— The cost of the yam stock material on this sam- ple is $1,655 per yard of finished cloth. From our figures the American conversion cost, from yarn to fin- ished cloth on this fabric may be taken as $0,666 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $2,321 per yard. The weaver's rate is 6.3 cents per yard in the raw. It is two-loom The German cost on this sample is $1.34 as a factory cost; $1,395 sold. The net factory price is $1 .57 per yard. The American factory cost is $2,321 per yard. The present rate of duty on this cloth is $1.33 per yard. Sample G. Men's blue serge, 57 inches wide, weighing 14.8 ounces to the yard. The actual loom analysis shows 5.680 warp ends on a reed width of 67 inches, slirinkmg to 57 inches in the fimshed cloth. Tlie warp is two-ply worsted yam No. 44. Tlie weft is of the same mate- rial, and there are 81 picks to the inch, or 2,916 picks to the jard. German mUls.— Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows i The yam stock for a yard of this cloth costs $0.8392. The con- version cost is 31.48 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of BEPORT OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 699 I $1,154. There is a selling and administrative expense of 5.4 cents per yard, making the cloth cost, sold at the factory, $1,208. The net selhng price of the cloth is $1.44 f. o. b. mill. The weave-room expense per yard of finished cloth is 6.81 cents, and the cost of fin- ishing is 13.78 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.05 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.98 cents per yard in the raw. The sample is woven on a 100-pick loom, one loom being attended by each weaver. The average weaver will produce 17.2 yards per day of 10 hours. Tiiis sample has a two-loom rate of 1.36 cents per 1,000 picks on 100-pick looms. There is also a 75-pick loom rate of 2.33 cents per 1,000 picks as a one-loom rate, and 1.55 cents per 1,000 picks as a two 75-pick loom rate. American mills. — Tlie stock-yam material for a yard of this fabric in an American mill costs $1.4509. From our figures the American conversion cost from yarn to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 52.69 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $1.9778. The total weaving expense is 11.3 cents per finished yard. Tlie weaving rate is 10.1 cents per yard in the raw. This is a one- loom rate, and 20 yards would be a good day's work for a weaver. Briefly, the German factory cost on this cloth is $1,154; the cost of the goods sold, but not dehvered^ is $1,208; the net cash selhng pnce f. o. b. mill is $1.44. The American cost on this cloth is $1 9778. The present tariff duty on this sample is $1.18 per yard. Sample IL , liight-weight, skein-dyed, fancy worsted, 58 inches wide, weWh- mg 9.3 ounces to the yard. The actual loom analysis shows 3 680 warp ends on a reed width of 69 inches, shrinking to 58 in the finished cloth. Both warp and weft are of two-ply worsted yarn No 46 There are 47 picks to the inch, or 1,692 picks to the yard. German mills. — Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows: The yarn material used in tliis sample costs $0.5597 per yard in German mills. Tlie manufacturing or conversion cost is 28.56 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $0.8453 per finished yard exclusive of selling expense, which adds 5.44 cents per yard, making- a net cost of the cloth sold, but not delivered, of $0.8997. The sellini price net f. o. b. mifl is $1.06 per yard. The weaving cost on th^ sample is 5.6 cents per yard; finishmg cost is 10.9 cents per yard The weavmg rate is 2.81 cents per 1,000 picks on a single 75-pick loom, or 4.75 cents per yard. On a 75-pick loom an average weaver will produce 21.6 yards per day of 10 hours. The two 75-pick loom rate is 1.88 cents per thousand picks. The rate on one loom of 100 picks a mmute efficiency is 2.45 cents per 1,000 picks, and the two-loom rate on 1 00-pick looms is 1.64 cents per 1,000 picks. American miUs.— The yam material for a yard of this cloth costs, in American miUs, $0,878. From our figures the American conver- sion cost from yarn to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 47 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,348 per yard. The cost at the factory, includmg selling expense, is $1,398 per yard. The two-loom weavmg rate is 2.6 cents per 1,000 picks, or 4.4 cents per yard. No one-loom rate was reported, and this rate should 700 EEPORT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. properly be compared with the two 100-pick loom rate, which la 1.64 cents per 1,000 picks, or 2.77 cents per yard. The Gernian factory cost is $0,845, or mcludmg selling expense $0.8997. The f . o. b. factory price is $1 .06. The American factory cost is $1,348, or including seUing expense $1,398. The present tariff on this cloth is $0.83 a yard. Sample L Unfinished black worsted, 58 mches wide, weighing 13.5 ounces to the yard. The actual loom analysis shows 4 100 warp ends on an 81-inch reed, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished cloth The w^^ is a single 32 and 45 twisted together for 3,890 ends, whde 270 ends are two^ly worsted yam No. 75. The weft is a 32 and a 45 twisted together! There axe 51 picks to the inch, or 1,836 picks to the yard. ^^G€^n^IiU^^--OuT figures show the cost m Germany on thia fabric to be as follows: # /» • i i t xi. The stock yam material costs $0.7669 per yard of finished cloth. The conversion cost is 26.51 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,032 per yard. The selling expense is 5.4 cente per yard, bringing this up to $1,086 as the cost of the <=lf^«°ld but not de- livered The net selling price f. o. b. mill is $1.36 per yard. Ihe weave-room expense on tJiis sample is 3.58 cents.per yard; the finish- ing is 11.9 cents per yard; and the piece dyeing is 4.7 cente per yard, ^he weaver's rate is 1.49 cents per 1,000 picks, or 2.74 cents per vard This is a two-loom rate, and in the factory making the sample only "the slow, or 75-pick, looms are used on this matenal. A weaver on two 75-pick looms wiU produce 37.2 yards per day. American mms.-The stock material for a yard of this cloth costs «1 156 From our figures the Amcncan conversion cost from yam to finished cloth on the fabric, including general expense but exclud- ing selling expense, may be taken as 47 cents per yard, mfkin- a net feStory cost of $1,626. The selling expense is f timated to^e 6^8 cents per yard, making a cost at the factory, but sold, of $1,684 per "'A, ™™. »,« .or .... loo™ i. 2.7 c.„U pe, ,,000 pi*. ., 4.« The German factory cost is $1,032; cost sold, but not delivered $1,086: seUing price f. o. b. mHl, $1.36. The American f actonr cost is $1 626: incTulling selhng expense, $1,684. The present tarirf duty on this doth is $1.10 a yard. Sample J. Fancy worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 11.3 ounces to the yard, ^he actual loom analysis shows 4,600 warp ends on a reed iidth of 67 inches. There are 58 picks to the inch, or 2,088 picks to the yard. The warp and weft are both 2-ply worsted yarn No. 46. There are 80 silk-effect threads of 2-ply No. 200. German wiZZs.— Our figures show the cost m Germany on this f abnc to be as follows: « . , , ■• * i xi. •;• <&a /^ati The yarn-stock material for a finished yard of cloth i5 $0.6971. The conversion cost is $0.3014 per yard, makmg a total factory cost BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OIT SCHEDULE K. 701 \ of $0.9985. The selling expense is 5.4 cents per yard, making a total cost of the doth sold, but not delivered, of $1,052 ner yard. The selling price f. o. b. mill is $1.19. The present taritt duty on this cloth is $0.95 per yard. The weaving cost is 6.67 cents per finished yard, and the finishing is 10.87 cents per yard. The weaver's rate is 2.45 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.12 per yard, on single 100-pick looms. On such looms the average weaver in the mill will produce 20 yards in a day. The two-loom rate on 100-pick looms is 1.64 cents per 1,000 picks. On 75-pick looms the one-loom rate is 2.81 cents, and the two-loom rate 1.88 cents per 1,000 picks. American mills. — The yam-stock cost per yard of finished cloth is $0.95. From our figures the American conversion cost, from yarn to finished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as 52. 1 cents per yard, making a total cost of $1,471 per yard. The weave-room expense is 9.45 cents per yard. The exact weaving rate is not reported. Sample K. Fancy worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 12.6 ounces to the yard. It is slub or top dyed. The actual loom analysis shows 4,250 warp ends on a reed width of 73 inches, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished cloth. The warp yarn is of 2-ply worsted No. 46, and the weft is a twist of No. 28 and No. 46 worsted yarns. There are 55 picks to the inch, or 1,980 picks to the yard. German mills. — Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows: The yarn cost per yard of cloth is $0.7592; the conversion cost is $0.2875 per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,047 per yard. The selling expense is 5.4 cents per yard, making a net cost of the cloth sold but not delivered, of $1.10 per yard. The seUing price f. o. b. mill is $1.25 per yard. The weaving cost is 6.49 cents per yard. The finishing cost is 10.8 cents per yard. This sample was woven as one-loom work, and the one-loom rate on 75-pick looms was 2.62 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.19 cents per yard.^ On one 75-pick loom a weaver will produce 20 yards per day. This cloth is woven variously as one or two loom work, and on 75 or 100-pick looms. The one 75-pick loom rate has been given above. The two 75-pick loom rate is 1.74 cents per 1,(500 picks. When woven on 100-pick looms the rate is 2.28 cents for one-loom work, and 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks for two-loom work. American mills. — The yarn material for a yard of this cloth costs $1.26 in American miUs. From our figures, the American conversion cost, from yarn to finished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as $0,522 per yard, making a total cost of $1,782 per yard. The weave-room expense is 7.2 cents per yard. The finishing cost is 19 cents per yard. The weaver's two-loom. rate is 6.7 cents per yard in the raw. This should be compared with the two-loom rate on 100-pick looms in Germany, which is 3 cents per yard in the raw. Briefly, the German cost on this fabric is $1,047 per yard in the factoiy; $1.10 per yard sold. The selling price f. o. b. mill is $1.25 per yard. The American factory cost is $1 .782 per yard. The present rate of duty is $1.02 per yard. 702 BEPOET OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Sample L, Tim IS a fancy blue serge, 58 inches wide, weighing 10.3 ounces to tno yard. Ihe actual loom analysis shows 5,800 warp ends on a reed width of 67 inches, shrinking to 58 inches in the finished cloth. 1 he warp is 2-ply worsted yam No. 62, and 2-ply No. 46: 5,232 ends of the former and 568 ends of the latter. The weft is 2-ply No 62 except the stnpe, which is 2-ply No. 46. There are 74 picks to tiie inch, 2,664 picks to the yard. i German milk, —Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to D« as follows; f The yam material for a yard of cloth costs $0,689. The conversion cost is $0.31 per yard, making a total factory cost of $0,999 per yard. The selhnff expense is 5.4 cents per yard, making a total cost of the goods sold but not delivered of $1,053 per yard. The seUing price f. o. b. mill IS $1.23 per yard. The weaving cost per yard of finished cloth IS 6.3 cents; the cost of finishing is 14.2 cents per yard. i This sample was woven on 75-pick looms, two looms to the weaver, and the two-loom rate is 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks, or 4.64 cents per yard. On two 75-pick looms an average weaver will produce 22 1 yards per day of 10 hours. This cloth may be woven indiscriminately as one or two loom work and on 75 or 100 pick looms, as the convenience or necessity of the estabhshment may require. On 100-pick looms tlie one-loom rate IS 2.28 cents per 1,000 picks; the two-loom rate is 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks. On 75-pick looms the one-loom rate is 2.62 cents per 1,000 picks, and the two-loom rate is 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks. As there are 2,664 picks in a yard, the yard rate at any of the foregomg rates may be readily calculated. AmeT%can miUs,— The yarn-stock cost per yard of cloth is $1.08. • !_ 1 ^ ^^^ figures, the American conversion cost, from yam to fin- ished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as $0,558 per yard, making a total cloth cost of $1,638 per yard. *- ^ » *> The weaving cost is 9.56 cents per yard, and the weaver's rate is 8.14 cents per yard in the raw. The German cost is $0,999 per vard as a factory cost, $1,053 as the total cost sold, but not dehvercd. The selling price is $1.23 per yard. The American cost is $1,638 per yard. The present tariff duty is $0.94 per yard on this cloth. Sample M, Fancy worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 14.8 ounces to the yard. It IS slub or top dyed. The actual loom analysis shows 4,255 warp ends of two-ply worsted yam number 46, and a twist of 28 and 46 yams. The weft is number 28 and number 46 worsted yams twisted together, and there are 55 picks to the inch, 1,980 picks to the yard. German miUs.—Our figures show the cost in Germany on this fabric to be as follows: The yam material costs $0,903 per yard; 'the conversion, $0,275 per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,178 per yard. The selling expense is 5.4 cents per yard, making the cost of \he cloth sold but not delivered $1,232 per yard. The selling price f. o. b. mill is $1.34 per yard. The weave-room cost per yard of finished cloth on this sample is 6.43 cents; the cost of the finishing is 10.9 cents per yard. BEPOET OF TARIFF BOAED OlST SCHEDULE K. 703 In this particular case this sample was woven as one-loom work on 75-pick looms, and the weaver's rate was 2.62 cents per 1,000 picks, or 5.19 cents per yard of woven cloth in the raw. On one 75- pick loom the average weaver will produce 19.8 yards per day. This cloth may be woven either as one or two loom work. On 75-pick looms the one-loom rate is 2.62 cents, and the two-loom rate 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks. On 100-pick looms the one-loom rate is 2.28 cents, and the two-loom rate 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks. American mills. — ^The yarn stock cost per yard is $1.36. From our %ures, the American conversion cost, from yam to finished cloth, on this fabric may be taken as $0,486, making a total cloth cost of $1,846 per yard. The weaving cost per yard of finished cloth is 7.8 cents. The weaver's rate is 7.2 cents per yard in the raw for two-loom work. The rate which should be compared with this is the two- loom rate on 100-pick looms, which is 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks, or 3 cents ner yard in the raw. The (jremian cost on this sample is $1,178 per yard as a factory cost and $1.23 per yard as the cost ready to deliver. The selling price is $1.34. The American cost on this sample is $1,846 per yard. The difference in factory costs, including materials, is $0,668. At the present rate of tariff duty this cloth pays $1.13 per yard. Sample N. Fancy worsted, 58 inches wide, weighing 13.9 ounces to the yard. It is yarn or wool dyed. The actual loom analysis shows 6,480 warp ends on a reed width of 67 inches. The warp is 2-ply worsted 3^arn No. 46; the weft is 2-i)ly worsted yarn No. 46. There are 51 picks to the inch, or 1,836 picks to the yard. German muLs, — Our figures show the cost in Grermany on this fabric to be as follows: The yarn cost per yard of cloth is $0,897, The conversion cost is 25.7 cents per yard, making a total factory cost of $1,154 per yard. The selling expense is 5.4 cents per yard, making a total cost of the cloth, sola but not delivered, of $1,208 per yard. The selling price f. o, b. mill is $1.30 per yard. The weavmg cost of the finished cloth is 5.07 cents; the finishing cost is 10.9 cents per yard. The weaver's rate on two-loom work is 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks, or 3.19 cents per yard in the raw. This is on 75-pick looms, and a weaver will produce 32 yards per day of 10 hours. This cloth may oe woven either as one or two loom work. The one-loom rate is 2.62 cents per 1,000 picks on 75-pick looms, or 2.28 cents per 1,000 picks on 100-pick looms. The two-loom rate is 1.74 cents per 1,000 picks on 75-pick looms, and 1.52 cents per 1,000 picks on 100-pick looms. American mills. — The cost of the yarn material per yard of finished goods is $1.26. From our figures the American conversion cost from yam to finished cloth on this fabric may be taken as 46.8 cents per yard, making a total cost of $1,728 per yard. The weaving expense per yard is 9.6 cents. The weaver's rate is 5.28 cents per yard as a two-loom rate, or 9.14 cents as a one-loom rate. 704 EEPOET OF TAKIFF BOAKD OK SCHEDULE K. Briefly, the German cost on this sample is $1.15 per yard as a factory cost; $1,208 a yard as the cost up to delivery. The selling price IS $1.30 a yard at the mill. The American cost is $1,728 a yard! Cards containing samples of aU tlie cloths just described, and giving details of construction, are included in this report, and accompany it for ih€ use of Congress, ^ ' -^ ^ The accompanying tahle presents a stimmaiy of the information just given in detail in relation to comparative convereion costs in Germany and America: Comparative conversion costs, from yam to finished cloth on German-made fabrics. Sample No. A. B. C. D. E. F. O. n. I.. J., K. L. N.' Kind of cloth. Worsted suiting do Black drape worsted. Fine worsted Fancy worsted Men's tieavy serge. . . Men's serge Fancy worsted Unfinished Avorsted . . Fancy worsted do., Fancy serge Fancy worsted — do German. Ameri- can. SO. 283 278 488 436 246 370 315 .265 .301 .288 .31 .275 .267 SO. 495 .50 .784 .71 .413 .666 .627 .47 .47 .521 .523 .558 .486 .468 RELATIVE PRICES. The board now presents certain comparable prices of cloths made m England and similar cloths made in this country. A collection of representative samples was made in England of fabrics ranging from those wliich are not imported because of a prohibitive duty to those winch are imported continually. These were then matched with a collection of samples of American-made cloths wliich are fairly com- parable, and the net mill prices of both countries compared for the same date. In tliis collection of samples there are 16 of cloths of which there is no importation, 16 of wliich the miportation is either small or very small, 15 of which the importation is moderate, and 14 which are contmually imported. These cloths are of the same width, and whatever difference there is in weight between the Enghsh and Amencan fabnc is given in the table. In this table there is given.the type of Enghsh cloth; a statement as to whether or not it is imported, and if so, to what extent; the English net mill price; the duty which It would pay if imported; what would be the English price plus the duty; and the net mill price of an identical or similar fabric of Amencan make. Cards containing samples of the English and compamUe American fabrics, side hj side, are included in this repoH, and accompany it, for the use oj Congress. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 705 Relative net mill prices of English cloths and similar American fabrics. Sam- Imports. price. Duty. Eng- lish price plus duty. United States price. Eng- lish weight- Ameri- can weight. fV»f f/»Ti-T«rar'n snitiriff .... E 1 £ 2 E 3 E 4 E 5 E 6 E 7 E 8 E 9 ElO Ell E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 E18 E19 E20 E21 E22 E23 E24 E25 E26 E27 E28 E29 E30 E31 E 32 E 33 E 34 E 35 E 36 E 37 E 38 E 39 E40 E 41 E 42 E 43 E 44 E45 E 46 E 47 E 48 E 49 E 60 E 51 E52 E 53 E 64 E 55 E56 E 57 E58 E 69 E 60 E 61 None $0.12 .167 .17 .187 .19 .20 .20 .22 .23 .24 .24 .24 .38 .40 .46 .54 .341 .42 .44 .85 1.89 .48 .617 .678 .72 .72 %86 .941 .98 1.10 10.24 .31 .44 .33 .49 .45 .47 .46 .47 .49 .49 .49 .60 .53 .64 .79 .42 .51 .58 1.09 1.81 .65 .63 .69 .86 .78 .97 1.00 1.03 1.32 1.36 1.20 .15 .24 .30 .44 .31 .44 .37 .42 .77 .94 1.09 1.09 1.09 1.14 1.25 1.03 .99 1.08 1.11 1.05 1.20 1.09 1.22 1.22 1.09 1.43 1.38 1.28 1.47 10.36 .48 .61 .52 .68 .65 .67 .68 .70 .73 .73 .73 .98 .93 1.10 1.33 .76 .93 1.02 1.94 3.70 1.13 1.25 1.37 1.58 1.50 1.83 1.94 2.01 2.42 2.54 2.44 .30 .505 .66 .82 .70 .85 .78 .926 1.44 1.94 2.17 2.22 2.22 2.42 2.57 2.21 2.19 2.30 2.33 2.31 2.48 2.37 2.58 2.58 2.47 2.85 2.88 2.80 3.15 $0,205 .24 .335 .24 .335 .335 .335 .335 .335 .335 .335 .335 .50 .575 1.125 1.075 .675 .775 .775 1.375 2.875 1.00 1.10 1.175 .975 .975 1.55 1.25 1.175 2.00 2.25 2.25 .275 .525 .60 .825 .715 .65 .575 .80 1.00 1.80 1.65 1.95 2.375 1.60 2.15 1.80 1.725 2.05 1.80 1.75 2.15 1.85 2.375 2.125 1.725 2.375 2.325 2.15 3.00 8.5 13.5 17 11.5 19 17 17.5 17 17 18 18 18 16 16 13 19 9 11 13 24 28 14 11 12 14 13 18 11 14 28 28 19 3.5 3.5 3.5 9.5 4.9 7.6 5 6.5 16 13.5 18 18 18 16 18 14 12 15 16 13 18 14 17 17 12 20 20 16 20 7.5 Woolen do do do do.. 13.5 flotton-warn suiting 16 Cotton warp, light weiglit — Cotton-warn suitins 16.2 Do 16 Cotton suitine do do do do 16 Do » . . 16 flotton-wam suitine 16 Do 16 Do 16 C/Otton suitine do.. do do • • • • •U.U««a>« • • • ■ • do Very email . . . ..do 16 "Ranpv siiitin?. ............. 16 Cotton suitincT 14 Worsted suiiine 13 Wrnnpn's cIoakinET. 20 ^ Womfen's dress £Oods.«.. 11.5 Hr art's fanr*v silltinp 11 ' Woolpn potton suiting. do 11 Mftaw cloak inff 24 Men's wear, heavy weight Wnrstpd aerce . . . . .do.... ..... 26 Small 14 Do 10.5 Wnr<;tpd impn's wear .....do. 11 Wnr^fprl cnitinc^ .._-.- . , - ..do..... .... 14 TTftTiPv Riiitincr _ ....... do 13 AVorstmi RiiitinET (\n 16 Worsted serse •..-.- 12 Do do 15 Hfplton 28 Do do 1.18 1.24 .154 .265 .364 .38 .387 .408 .412 .506 .668 1.00 1.08 1.134 1.134 1.28 1.32 1.18 1.20 1.22 1.22 1.26 1.28 1.28 1.36 1.36 1.38 1.42 1.50 1.52 1.68 30 W orsted suitinir Moderate do do do do do do do do • • • • • UU ••••••■• * • « • •VXV/ ■»•••••<• do do do do Continual do do do do do ,do do do do do do 18 . Batiste 3.5 Panama cloth 3.5 Cotton warn mohair. 3.5 Worsted sersre 10 f!of ton warn Panama 5.5 Do 6 Do 5 Women's tricot 6 Tricot 16 Fane V worsted . 13 Men's suiting Worsted suitins 16 18 Do 16 Men's suitiner 16 Worsted serere 17 TlnfinLshed worsted 14 Vanp V 'worsted ............. 12 Worsted serce 11 TTnfinished worsted 14 Worsted seree . 15" TTnfinished worsted .1 17 Fancv worsted 14 Worsted seree 16 Unfinished worsted 17 Fancv worsted 12 Unfinished worsted suiting — Unfinished worsted 18 18 Men's worsted 16.5 Heavv worsted 18.5 COST OF BUILDINGS AND EQUIPMENT. A very important element in woolen and worsted manufacture is the erection and equipping of the mills and the comparative costs in the United States and abroad. The board has had estimates prepared by leading mill architects in this country and in England. These estimates were made for buildings of the same size and construction and equipped with the machinery necessary for the same production in each country;, with the exception of the combing plant. We find from these estimates that the additional cost over that of England for building, erection 706 REPOBT OP TABIPF BOABD ON SCHEDUIJ! and equipment in this country is, for a woolen mill, 49 per cent- for awool prepanng and combing mill about the same prop^ion for I wonted spmmi^ mdl, 67 per cent, and for a worsted weaving mill 43 per cent, fn these cases the a t« 65 per cent more W „f 1 Eiigland. This is macle up of a duty of 45 per Jent and pack- mg and shippmg charges of about 20 per cent. To these costs must be added from 7i to 10 per cent to cover cost of freight and erLtion or from 13 to IS per cent of the English cost of thTm^hrnery S apiount of foreign machmery in use in this country can be judged bv the fact that m the worsted mills covered by the Westigatioa of the board mto machme ef&iency 87 per cent of aU the machinery from thl scouru^ of raw wool through to the finished yarn was imported Ihere are now given m detad the findings and figures for the four different plants considered and estunated. WOOLEN MILL. This estimate is for a woolen mill with 14 sets of cards, the buUdines c™te fnn.75 ^^o^^c^^ouflow-huvmr^ type, Portland cement cT Crete foundations, brick walls wooden floors, and tar and gravel roof covering. The structural steel work is made of roUed " medium " steel ^^^ch *° ^^'"^^ *** 60/)00 pounds to 70^00 pounds per' vJJ\LYd'i^tl'^ such a phuit in the United States is $506,941; in ^iMxd $339,854, or a higher cost m the United States of 49 per c4nt. J?22 ^'™^„ ^""^K^^ cost $176,391 and the English fiuildin^ \S^l o?f^ Ku^X foUowing table between the two countries ar« comparable, with the exception that the fire pump is not included in the ^English estimate for fire protection nor a coal trestle in the Enghsh calculation for railroad siding. In the American costs the fire pump is placed at $1,000 and the coal trestle at the same price Woolen miU (14 sets 0/ cards). Buildings (cWmneys indtnled) Mach inery erected... Light injc equipment Fire protectioa (generator incliMied)'.'-'.] Heating. ManfoJwstinIng pi|»iBg Ilumidifiers Elevators Shafting and belting " Furniture and supplies PowBf plant Bepairshop Railroad siding Engineering, contingencies, and allowanres for starting plant.' Complete piant. Cost of machinery, per set Cost of bmldSngs, per set Cost of complete plant, per set. United land. States. 1182,391 S136,I50 180, 161 122, 28d 6,425 3,772 10,100 » 5,513 4,865 »8,780 4,700 3,200 4,000 2,433 2,350 1,168 18,265 6,083 14,600 8,124 23,300 17,57i 4,260 3,601 2,200 ■486 46,484 33, 112 8,734 i,010 24,447 I Pmnp not fndoded in English. «Vamiim system in English. « Coal trestle not included in English. \ KEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUMl K. PREPAEING AND COMBING MILL, 707 There are presented here the cost of a wool-preparing and combing Elant in the United States and one in England, the American plant aving 8 combs and the English plant 12 combs. The American plant is constructed to produce from 2,000 to 2,500 pounds of 60s. quality tops per day of 10 hours. | ' The total cost of the 8-comb plant in the United States is $200,158, and of the 12-comb English plant $163,003, making the American plant cost 22 per cent more than the English and for two-thirds the number of combs contained in the English plant. ^ | In the American plant the carding machinery is of American make, but the balance of tlie machinery is of the best English manufacture. The figures in the following table are comparable, with the excep- tion of the item of railroad siding, where the coal trestle is not included in the English cost. This is put down at $1,000 in the American estimate. Preparing and combing plant. Buildings Machinery and erection Electric equipment Fire protection Heating Manufacturing piping Humidifiers Slxafting I Belting Supplies Miscellaneous equipment Power plant Repair shop Railroad siding Engineering and contingencies . Complete plant. 200,158 United Eng- States land (8-comb), (12<:omb), $76,274 f70,811 73,316 53,275 1,640 1,620 5,550 3,900 1,800 2,160 1,425 1,525 1,250 1,260 1,704 973 X,548 1,849 3,082 1,353 5,046 3,600 11,775 6,618 3,548 2,760 2,200 1500 10,000 10,800 163,003 » CoQl trestle not inchided in English. f WORSTED SPINNING MILL. } This is an estimate for a worsted spinning mill containing three sets of drawing, and 5,400 producing spindles, producing from 2,000 .to 2,500 pounds of 2/30' s count yarn per day of 10 hours. Such a plant would cost complete in the United States $203,906 and in England $121,860. The American cost is thus 67 per cent higher than the English. The cost of the buildings, including chim- 'ney, in the United States, is $62,480 and in England $40,319. The machinery, erected, cost in the United States is $72,725 and in Eng- land $37,099. In the American plant the machinery up to and includ- ing twisters is of English manufacture and the balance is of American manufacture. 708 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The figures as given in the following table are comparable in all cases, with the exception that in the cost of railroad siding there is no coal trestle in the English estimate. The cost of the American trestle is $1,000. Worsted spinning plant (6,400 spindks). Buildings and chimney Machinery erected Lighting equipment Fire protection Heatmg Humidifiers Elevators Shafting Belting Supplies and miscellaneous equipment Bobbins and spools Power plant Repair shop Railroad siding Engineering and contingencies Comple^ plant Cost of machinery per spindle Cost of buildings per spindle Cost of complete plant per spindle United States. 162,480.00 72,725.00 1,700.00 4,950.00 1,800.00 2, 400. 00 800.00 4,361.00 1,475.00 6,160.00 4,662.00 24,600.00 3,883.00 2,000.00 10,000.00 England. 203,996.00 $40,319.00 40,808.00 1,250.00 2,500.00 1,460.00 1,216.00 1,070.00 2,191.00 1,469.00 3,000.00 1,886.00 16,900.00 3,000.00 »500.00 8,000.00 125,569.00 » Coal trestle not Included In English. WORSTED WEAVING MILL. The estimates for this plant assume a worsted weaving and finishing mill containing 100 looms, and making both dress goods and men's suitings. The total cost of such a mill in the United States is $333,678, and the cost in England of the same plant would be $233,379, making the American plant cost 43 per cent more than the English. The build- ings in the United States, including chimney, cost $134,973, and m England $92,695. The machinery, erected, cost in the United States $111,338, and in England $79,342. In this plant the machinery estimate for the United States mill is for machinery throughout of American manufacture. The figures as given in the following table are comparable, with the exception that in the case of fire protection the fire pump is not included in the English estimate, nor the coal trestle included in the English cost of the railroad siding. The estimated cost of the trestle in this country is $1 ,000 and of the fire pump the same amount. In the matter of heating it is to be noted that the vacuum system is esti- mated for in the English cost. BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDUI^ K. Worsted weaving plant (100 looms). 709 Buildings (including chimney) Machinery erected Lighting equipment (generator included) . Fire protection Heating Manufacturing piping Humidifiers Elevators Shafting and belting Supplies and miscellaneous equipment . . . Power plant Repair shop Railroad siding. Engineering and contingencies. Complete plant ^^'^^^ United States. $134,973 111,338 5,250 8,750 4,650 7,500 2,100 1,100 6,968 11,740 17,550 4,159 2,600 15,000 Cost of machinery per loom Cost of buildings per loom Cost »l complete plant per loom. 1,113 1,349 3,336 England. $92,695 79,342 1,946 14,124 s 4,380 5,000 2,316 1,168 4,234 5,500 11,435 2,433 <486 18,320 233,379 793 926 2,333 » Pump not Included in English. « Vacuum system in English. » Coal trestle not included in English. METHOD OF ASSESSING DUTIES. The board has carefully considered the problem of the method of assessing the duties on manufactures of wool, with the idea of deter- mining the f easibihty of using a system of specific duties throughout. The system of specific duties has many advantages. From the point of view of revenue and administration such a system has the advantage of fixing definite rates which are independent of the fluctuations of the market, and solves and eUminates the very impor- tant problem of undervaluation. From the economic point of view the system has tliis advantage; that the amount of duty remains uniform despite fluctuations in prices. One serious disadvantage of ad valorem duties is that the amount of duty increases with every increase in the price of the article. In other words, at the time when prices are high and when the consumer would be most benefited by the active competition of foreign fabrics, the duty automatically increases. Conversely, the amount of duty diminishes when prices fall; that is, when the consumer least needs rehef and when the com- petition of foreign manufacturers is most injurious to the home^ producer. From the point of view of protecting the domestic manufacturer by equalizing the dilTerence in cost of production at home and abroad by means of tariff duties, the system of specific duties is the natural and logical method. Market values fluctuate continuously according to the prices of the raw material. The cost of manufacturing this material, however, remains relatively constant, and does not change with such fluctuations. That is, the difference in the cost of produc- tion is a relatively constant quantity and consequently a duty assessed in ad valorem terms would inevitably be at one time in excess of the difference in the cost of production and at another time less than the difference in the cost of production, according to the tem- porary and speculative changes of the market. The successful operation of a system of specific duties, however, depends upon the possibihty of classifying the articles on which duties are levied in definite terms familiar to the tra;de and corre- 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2- 710 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. sponding to actual differences in cost of manufacture. Many efforts have been made to find an accurate basis for such classification for manufactures of wool, but thus far not with success so far as woven fabrics are concerned. In the case of varus the problem is relatively simple. Yarns are comparatively well standardized and their cost varies in a certain regular relation to the fineness or count of the yarn. It is a simple matter, then, to adopt the specific system in this partic- ular case. A dutjr can be assessed on No. 1 jram and be made to increase by a certain proportion with each additional count of yarn. The proper additions could furthermore be made for doubhng, dyeing, hard twisting, etc. But no satisfactory method of classifying woven fabrics, in the case of manufactures of wool, with a view to the assessment of specific duties has yet been devised. Efforts have been made to classify woolen and worsted fabrics according to weight per yard and picks per inch as the proper basis for adjustmg rates to relative differences m costs. This method, however, fails to take into account either the gfeat variations in the quality of yam going into a fabric of a given class or the great variations in the finisliing of cloth after the process of weaving is completed. From an examination of many fabrics it appears that no system of classification alon^ such lines nas yet been worked out which would act in a fair and equitable manner. It would seem, then, that in so far as woolen and worsted fabrics are concerned the only present practicable method of levying duties is to adopt in some measure a system of ad valorem duties. Such ad valorem duties would necessarily be in addition to any compensa- torv duties levied because of the duty on the raw material. Any flat ad valorem duty must inevitably have very different effects* in the case of different fabrics, since such a duty is assessed on the basis of the market value of the fabric without regard to the relation between the labor or conversion cost and the value of the raw material. Compare, for instance, two fabrics in one of which the conversion cost is 30 per cent of the total and in the other 60 per cent of the total. A nat ad valorem rate applied to both fabrics would give double the protection to the manufacturer of the first fabric that it would give to the manufacturer of the second. The result is that a single ad valorem rate if fixed at a point adequate to eauaUze the difference in the cost of production on those fabrics which have the highest labor or conversion cost would be practically prohibitory on fabrics of a lower grade. Conversely, if the duty were put at a point to equalize the difference in the labor or conversion cost on the cheaper fabrics it would be inadequate for equahzing such difference in the case of finer fabrics. In general, it may be said that the fabrics of high value have a relatively high conversion cost. There are, of course, individual exceptions to this general statement, but they are not of sufficient importance to materially affect the case. Consequently, if the f)urpose of legislation be to adjust duties so far as possible to relative abor or conversion costs, this can now best be done, so far as woolen and worsted fabrics are concerned, by assessing ad valorem rates and have them vary with the value of the fabric. A system of graduated duties, increasiV regularly with different increments of value could be made equitably to equalize the difference in the cost of production on the more expensive fabrics without placing prohibitory rates on fabrics of lower grade. PART III -MANUFACTORmG COSTS. SECTJON 2. 711 ^4 1 i WEAVERS' WAGE SCALES AND AQBEEMENTS FROM ENGLAND, GERMANY, AUSTRIA., FRANCE, AND BELGIUM. Kealizing that the weavers' rates are an important element in the cost of production of cloth, a collection of wage scales was made as supplementing the costs on specific samples. , , . i i A mass of wage data was secured for which no tabulation has been made because of the impossibility of handlmg the matenal m so short Wage scales, however, have been tabulated where their nature per- mitted of tabulation, and where this was not possible typical ones have been reproduced in translation or in summaries. A wage scale may represent the wages paid in a smgle plant or m an entu-e industrial district, and to offset this discrepancy in the relative value of different scales an attempt has been made to show how many establishments were included in a given scale. ^ This has not always been possible, as, for instance, m the weavers wage scale for the Iluddersfield district of England, practically all establishments pay the scale, but it was impossible to determme just how many do not. . . ^ t^. • e ^ This would be true of the Gera district m Germany, it is safe to say however, that a district or group wage scale is always the standard of wages for that locality and any variance either way from this standard would be slight. ENGLISH weavers' SCALES. The Huddersfield scale, which follows, is a compilation by the Manufacturers' Association of that district, and there is an agreement among the members to pay according to this scale. It apphes to one- loom work and on looms running 70 to 80 picks per mmute, except that a provision is made for a 35 per cent reduction froni this scale for two-loom work. A smgle column has been added for looms run- ning from 110 to 120 picks per minute as a possible speed hmit. No reference is made to the newer and higher speed looms which are found in some parts of England; hence where a higher speed loom is mentioned in that part of the present report which analyzes samples sent out by the board, such rates can not be compared with this table. The analysis there given of costs of production by samples is based on the cost on the most rapid looms in use on that sample in England. The weavers' scale here given is for the type of looms named m the scale and for none other. 713 'iSuiiiiii. ' 714 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The Huddersfield scale is prefaced bj the following statement from the secretary of the association: HUDDERSllELO WOOLEN MANUPACTURERS AND SPINNERS* ASSOCIATION WEAVERS* SCALE. The following scale for 18 stringB of 10 feet per string has been compiled by the above association: In shawls not more than three shuttles will be paid for. Up to 30 picks on warps of only one cut long 6a. extra will be allowed. From 30 to 60 picks on warps of only one cut long 9d. extra will be allowed. Above 60 picks on warps of onl^ one cut long Is. extra will be allowed. In all cases 1 halfpennvper stnns to be added for every 2 healds over 16. Weavers working two looms will be paid 35 per cent, or 7s. in the pound sterling, less than scale. All damages traced to negligence will be deducted. No interference will be allowed with learners approved by the masters. WiLUAM ScHOFiELD, Secretary. In the tabular presentation of this scale the '* string" has been reduced to yards, and the EngHsh money changed to the L^nited States equivalent — that is, the rate is given in cents per yard, and the sepa- rate scales or rates paid to male and female weavers have been brought together in one table. The originals are published sepa- rately as two different scales, one for male and the other for female weavers. This did not seem necessary where they are to be used simply for comparison. The tables show the rate based on the number of picks or threads of weft varn per linear inch of the cloth as woven in the loom; the rate is shown for male weavers and for female weavers separately on one-beam and on two-beam work and where one shuttle is used, and so on up to four shuttles. The tabulated wage scale is to be read as follows: Suppose the weaver's rate on a woolen cloth having 51 picks to the woven inch is wanted; follow down the line of picks per woven inch on Table 1 until 51 is found, and it will be seen that for either 51 or 52 picks on one-beam and one-shuttle work the male weaver's rate is 5.68 cents per yard; the female weaver's rate is 4.92 cents; the rate for two shuttles, one beam, is 5.98 cents and 5.12 cents, respectively; on two-beam and two-shuttle work the rate for males is 7 cents, for female weavers 6.18 cents, etc. The rate for worsted cloth woven from colored yarn can be followed on Table 2 in the same way; and the rate for worsted cloths woven in white, or * 'gray, " as it is called in the United States, can be followed in Table 3 in a similar way. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SOHEDUUa K. Table 1. (Rate per yard.] 715 Picks per woven Inch. 9 and 10 11 and 12 13andl4 15 and 16 17 and 18.... 19and20.... 21 and 22 23 and 24-... 25 and 26 27 and 28.... 29 and 30 31 and 32 33 and 34 35 and 36 37 and 38 39 and 40 41 and 42.... 43 and 44.... 45 and 46 47 and 48.... 49 and 50 51 and 52.... 63 and 54 — 55 and 56 57 and 58... 69 and 60... 61 and 62... 63 and 64.. - 65 and 66... 67 and 68... 69 and 70... 71 and 72... 73 and 74. . . 75 and 76... 77 and 78... 79 and 80... 81 and 82... 83 and 84... 85 and 86... 87 and 88... 89 and 90... 91 and 92... 93 and 94... 95 and 96... 97 and 98... 99 and 100.. 101 and 102. 103 and 104. 105 and 106. 107 and 108. 109 and 110. Ill and 112. 113 and 114. 115 and 116. 117 and 118. 119 and 120. Worsteds, woolens, and mixture or solid-colored worsteds. Male weaver. Ibeam. 1 shuttle. 2 shuttles. $0.0141 .0162 .0183 .0203 .0223 .0243 .0264 .0284 .0304 .0324 .0345 .0365 .0385 .0406 .0426 .0446 .0466 .0487 .0507 .0527 .0547 .0568 .0588 .0608 .0629 .0649 .0669 .0689 .0710 .0730 .0760 .0771 .0791 .0811 .0831 .0852 .0872 .0892 .0912 .0933 .0963 .0973 .0994 .1014 .1034 .1054 .1075 .1095 .1115 .1136 .1156 .1176 .1106 .1217 .1237 .1257 3 shuttles. 4 shuttles. 10.0162 .0183 .0203 .0223 .0243 .0264 .0284 .0304 .0324 .0345 .0365 .0386 .0406 .0426 .0451 .0471 .0492 .0512 .0532 .0658 .0678 .0598 .0618 .0639 .0664 .0684 .0705 .0725 .0745 .0771 .0791 .0811 .0831 .0852 .0877 .0897 .0918 .0938 .0958 .0983 .1004 .1024 .1044 .1066 .1090 .1110 .1130 .1151 .1169 .1196 .1217 .1237 .1257 .1277 .1303 .1323 2 beams. 2 shuttles. 3 shuttles. 4 shuttles. $0.0183 .0203 .0223 .0243 .0264 .0284 .0304 .0324 .0345 .0366 .0386 .0406 .0426 .0446 .0477 .0497 .0517 .0537 .0558 .0588 .0608 .0629 .0649 .0669 .0700 .0720 .0740 .0760 .0781 .0811 .0831 .0852 .0872 .0892 .0923 .0943 .0963 .0983 .1004 .1034 .1054 91075 .1096 .1115 .1146 .1166 .1186 .1206 .1227 .1257 .1277 .1298 .1318 .1338 .1369 .1389 $0.0213 .0233 .0253 .0274 .0294 .0314 .0335 .0355 .0375 .0395 .0416 .0436 .0456 .0477 .0514 .0634 .0554 .0575 .0596 .0634 .0654 .0674 .0694 .0715 .0752 .0772 .0792 .0813 .0833 .0872 .0892 .0912 .0933 .0953 .0990 .1010 .1031 .1051 .1071 .1110 .1130 .1161 .1171 .1191 .1228 .1249 .1269 .1289 .1310 .1348 .1369 .1389 .1409 .1430 .1467 .1487 $0 0461 0476 .0497 .0531 .0653 .0576 .0698 .0622 .0664 .0700 .0720 .0723 .0746 .0779 .0801 .0826 .0847 .0870 .0902 .0926 .0948 .0972 .0994 .1027 .1049 .1073 .1095 .1119 .1151 .1176 .1196 .1220 .1244 .1276 .1298 .1321 .1343 .1367 .1399 .1423 .1445 .1468 .1490 .1524 .1646 $0.0471 .0497 .0517 .0556 .0578 .0602 .0624 .0647 .0684 .0710 .0730 .0764 .0776 .0814 .0836 .0860 .0882 .0906 .0943 .0967 .0989 .1012 .1034 .1073 .1095 .1117 .1141 .1164 .1201 .1226 .1247 .1271 .1294 .1332 .1337 .1363 .1399 .1423 .1460 .1484 .1516 .1561 .1670 .1690 .1619 $0.0502 .0526 .0547 .0693 .0615 ,0639 .0661 .0684 .0730 .0765 .0776 .0799 .0821 .0867 .0889 .0912 .0934 .0958 .1004 .1027 .1049 .1073 .1095 .1141 .1163 .1186 .1208 .1232 .1277 .1299 .1323 .1347 .1370 .1414 .1436 .1460 .1482 .1506 .1551 .1675 .1697 .1620 .1642 .1688 .1708 716 BEFORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 717 Table 1 — Continued. [Rate per yard.] Picks per woven Inch. 9andl0 11 and 12 13 and 14 16 and 16 17 and 18 19 and 20 21 and 22 23 and 24 25 and 26 27 and 28 29 and 30 31 and 32 33 and 34 35 and 36 37 and 38 39 and 40 41 and 42 43 and 44.."... 45 and 46 47 and 48 49 and 50 61 and 52 63 and 54 65 and 56 67 and 58 69 and 60 61 and 62 63 and 64 65 and 66 67 and 68 69 and 70 71 and 72 73 and 74 75and 76 77 and 78 79 and 80 81 and 82 83 and 84 86 and 86 87 and 88 89 and 90 91 and 92 93 and 94 95 and 96 97 and 98 99 and 100 101 and 102... 103 and 104... 106 and 106... inland 108 109 and 110... Ill and 112... 113 and 114... 115 and 116.... 117 and 118.... 119 and 120 Worsteds, woolens, and mixture or solid-colored worsteds. Femalo weaver. 1 beam. 2 beams. 1 shuttle. 2 shuttles. 3 shuttles. 4 shuttles. 2 shuttles. 3 shuttles. 4 shuttles. SO. 0125 SO. 0141 .0162 .0179 .0196 .0213 .0233 .0250 .0267 .0284 .0304 .0311 .0330 SO. 0162 .0179 .0196 .0213 .0233 .0250 .0267 .0284 .0304 .0321 .0338 .0360 SO. 0189 .0206 .0223 .0240 .0260 .0277 .0294 .0311 .0331 .0348 .0365 .0406 ! . .0141 '.. . .1 .0162 ! .0179 ' .0196 .0213 .0233 < .0250 .0267 1 i .0284 .0294 1 .0299 SO. 0395 SO. 0411 SO. 0433 .0330 .0360 .0365 .0411 .0426 .0446 .0477 .0360 .0366 .0385 .0441 .0446 .0466 .0497 .0370 .0406 .0400 .0444 .0460 .0487 .0517 .0375 .0411 .0446 .0476 .0487 .0507 .0537 .0406 .0438 .0451 .0505 .0507 .0527 .0558 .0416 .0466 .0471 .0532 .0537 .0563 .0600 .0446 .0461 .0502 .0537 .0558 .0583 .0620 .0451 .0492 .0532 .0568 .0578 .0603 .0640 .0461 .0507 .0537 .0596 .0698 .0624 .0661 .0492 .0612 .0658 .0602 .0618 .0644 .0681 .0622 .0542 .0588 .0634 .0649 .0679 .0726 .0527 .0673 .0593 .0662 .0669 .0700 .0746 .0637 .0588 .0617 .0689 .0689 .0720 .0766 .0668 .0693 .0644 .0694 .0710 .0740 .0786 .0698 .0624 .0674 .0725 .0730 .0760 .0806 .0608 .0639 .0684 .0754 .0750 .0781 .0826 .0613 .0669 .0700 .0759 .0781 .0816 .0869 .0644 .0674 .0730 .0789 .0801 .0836 .0889 .0654 .0689 .0750 .0816 .0821 .0857 .0909 .0684 .0720 .0755 .0821 .0841 .0877 .0929 .0689 .0750 .0786 .0852 .0862 .0897 .0950 .0720 .0765 .0816 .0882 .0892 .0933 .0994 .0730 .0771 .0636 .0911 .0912 .0963 .1014 .0760 .0803 .0641 .0916 .0933 .0973 .1034 .0766 .0831 .0872 .0946 .0953 .0994 .1054 .0776 .0841 .0892 .0973 .0973 .1014 .1076 .0806 .0852 .0897 .0978 .0994 .1034 .1096 .0836 .0682 .0928 .1009 .1024 .1073 .1137 .0847 .0894 .0948 .1037 .1044 .1090 .1157 .0852 .0902 .0978 .1043 .1065 .1110 .1178 .0882 .0933 .0983 .1073 .1085 .1130 .1198 .0912 .0963 .1014 .1103 .1105 .1151 .1218 .0918 .0978 .1034 .1130 .1136 .1186 .1262 .0928 .0983 .1065 .1136 .115(1 .1206 .1283 .0968 .1014 .1070 .1166 .1176 .1227 .i;»3 .0968 .1029 .1090 .1194 .1196 .1247 .1323 .0973 .1069 .1120 .1200 .1217 .1267 . 1343 .1004 .1065 .1130 .1230 .1237 .1288 .1364 .1014 .1080 .1146 .1257 .1257 .1308 .1384 .1044 .1110 .1176 .1288 .1288 .1343 .1426 .1049 .1141 .1206 .1293 .1308 .1364 .1446 .1080 .1146 .1212 . 1321 .1328 .1384 .1407 .1090 .1161 .1232 . 13.'>2 . 1348 .1404 .1487 .1119 .1191 .1263 . 1357 .1369 .1440 .1631 Table 2. Picks per woven inch. 31 and 32... 33 and 34... 35and3G — 37 and 38... 39 and 40... 41 and 42... 43 and 44... 45 and 40... 47 and 48... 49 and 50... 51 and 52... 63 and 54... 55 and 56... 67 and 58... 69 and GO... 61 and 62... 63 and 64.. - 65 and 66... 67 and 68... 69 and 70... 71 and 72... 73 and 74... 75 and 76... 77 and 78... 79 and 80... 81 and 82... 83 and 84... 85 and 80... 87 and 88... 89 and 90... 91 and 92... 93 and 94... 95 and 96... 97 and 98... 99 and 100.. 101 and 102. 103 and 104. lOSandlOG. 107 and 108. 109 and 110. Ill and 112. 113 and 114. 115 and 116. 117 and 118. 119 and 120. Colored worsteds. Male weaver. Ibeam. 2 beams. 1 shuttle. 2 shuttles. SO. 0385 .0406 .0426 .0451 .0171 .0492 .0512 .0532 .0558 .0578 .0598 .0618 .0639 .0064 .0684 .0705 .0725 .0745 .0771 .0791 .0811 .0831 .0852 .0877 .0897 .0918 .TO38 .0958 .0983 .1004 .1024 .1044 .1065 .1090 .1110 .1130 .1151 .1171 .1196 .1217 .1237 .1257 .1277 .1303 .1323 3 shuttles. SO. 0406 .0426 .0451 .0477 .0497 .0517 .0542 .0563 .0588 .0608 .0629 .0664 .0674 .0700 .0720 .0740 .0765 .0780 .0811 .0831 .0852 .0872 .0892 .0923 .0943 .0968 .0989 .1009 .1034 .1054 .1080 .1100 .1120 .1146 .1166 .1191 .1212 .1232 .1257 .1277 .1303 .1323 .1343 .1369 .1394 4 shuttles. <2 shuttles. SO. .0426 .0451 .0471 .0502 .0520 .0547 .0568 .0588 .0618 .0644 .0664 .0684 .0705 .0735 .0760 .0781 .0801 .0821 .0852 .0877 .0897 .0918 .0938 .0973 .0994 .1014 .1034 .1054 .1090 .1110 .1130 .1151 .1171 .1206 .1227 .1247 .1267 .1293 .1323 .1343 .1364 .1384 .1409 .1440 .1460 SO. 0461 .0482 .0502 .0544 .0564 .0585 .0605 .0625 .0669 .0689 .0710 .0730 .0755 .0792 .0813 .0833 .0858 .0879 .0918 .0938 .0958 .0983 .1004 .1041 .1061 .1087 .1107 .1127 .1160 .1191 .1212 .1232 .1252 .1294 .1315 .1335 .1355 .1375 .1419 .1440 .1460 .1480 .1506 .1543 .1563 SO. 0512 ,0536 0558 0607 0629 0652 0674 0C98 0745 0771 0791 0814 0830 0885 0907 0931 0953 0977 1024 1048 1070 1093 1115 1164 1186 1210 1232 1255 1303 1326 1348 1372 1396 1443 1465 1489 1511 1534 1582 1605 1627 1651 1673 1722 1744 3 shuttles. 4 shuttles. SO. 0532 .0556 .0578 .0632 .0654 .0678 .0700 .0723 .0776 .0801 .0821 .0845 .0867 .0921 .0943 .0967 .0989 .1012 .1075 .1088 .1110 .1134 .1156 .1210 .1232 .1255 .1277 .1301 .1353 .1377 .1399 .1423 .1446 .1499 .1521 .1544 .1566 .1590 .1642 .1666 .1688 .1712 .1734 .1788 .1810 SO. 0563 .0586 .0608 .0669 .0691 .0715 .0737 .0760 .0821 .0847 .0867 .0890 .0916 .0973 .0995 .1019 .1041 .1065 .1125 .1149 .1171 .1194 .1217 .1277 .1299 .1323 .1345 .136J .1430 .1453 .1475 .1499 .1522 .1580 .1604 .1627 .1649 .1673 .1734 .1757 .1779 .1803 .1825 .1886 .1908 fmim 718 KEPORT OF TABIFP BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 719 Table 2 — Continued. Table 3. Picks per woven Inch. 31 and 32.. 33 and 34.. 35 and 36.. 37 and 38.. 39 and 40.. 41 and 42.. 43 and 44.. 45 and 46.. 47 and 48.. 49 and 50.. 61 and 52. . 53 and 54.. 65 and 56 . . 67 and 58.. 69 and 60.. 61 and 62.. 63 and 64.. 65 and 66.. 67 and 68.. 69 and 70.. 71 and 72. . 73 and 74.. 75 and 76.. 77 and 78.. 79 and 80.. 81 and 82.. 83 and 84.. 85 and 86 . . 87 and 88.. 89 and 90.. 91 and 92.. 93 and 94.. 95 and 96.. 97 and 98.. 99 and 100.. 101 and 102 103 and 104. 105 and 106. 107 and 108. 109 and 110. Ill and 112. 113 and 114. 115 and 116. 117 and 118. 119 and 120. Colored worsteds. Female weaver. Ibeum. 1 shnttte. to. 0330 .0360 .0365 .0406 .0411 .0438 .0466 .0461 .0492 .0507 .0512 .0542 .0573 .0588 .0593 .0624 .0639 .0669 .0674 .0689 .0720 .0750 .0755 .0771 0803 .0831 .0841 .0852 .0882 nmu .0902 .0933 .0963 .0978 .0983 . 1014 .1029 .1059 .1065 .1080 .1110 .1141 .1146 .1161 .1191 2 shuttles. 3 shuttles. 10.0360 .0365 .0385 .0400 .0446 .0451 .0471 .0502 .0532 .0537 .0568 .0593 .0617 .0644 .0674 .0684 .0700 .0730 .0760 .0756 .0786 .0816 .0836 .0841 .0872 .0892 .0807 .0928 • (IiHn!I .0978 .0983 .1014 .1034 .1066 .1070 .1090 .1120 .1130 .1146 .1176 .1206 .1212 .1232 .1262 10.0365 .0385 .0426 .0461 .0456 .0487 .0512 .0517 .0547 .0573 .0603 .0608 .0639 .0664 .0669 .0700 . 0725 .0755 .0760 .0786 .0816 .0821 .0852 .0877 .0907 .0912 .0938 .0968 .0973 UtOtOtk • vwww .1039 .1050 .1065 .1090 .1120 . 1125 .1161 .1181 .1212 .1217 .1242 .1272 .1277 .1303 .1333 2 beams. 4 shuttles. 2 shuttles. 3 shuttles. 4 shuttles. 10.0411 SO. 0441 .0441 .0-187 .0446 .0507 .0478 .0527 .0509 .0547 .0514 .0568 .0547 .0613 .0578 .0634 .0608 .0654 .0615 .0674 .0645 .0694 .0676 .0740 .0679 .0760 .0701 .0781 .0745 .0801 .0752 .0821 .0782 .0841 0813 .0887 .0818 .0907 .0852 .0928 .0882 .0948 .0912 .0968 .0918 .1014 .0950 .1034 .09f!0 .1064 r0985 .1076 .1019 .1096 .1049 .1116 .1064 .1161 .1087 .1181 .1117 .1201 .1147 .1222 . 1152 .1243 .1186 .1288 .1217 .1308 .1222 .1328 .1264 .1348 .1284 .1369 .1289 .1389 .1363 .1409 .1350 .1455 .1364 .1476 .1389 .1495 . 1421 .1516 .1426 .1661 SO. 0456 .0507 .0527 .0547 .0568 .0588 .0639 .0659 .0679 .0700 .0720 .0771 .0791 .0811 .0831 .0852 .0872 .0923 .0943 .0963 .0983 .1004 .1054 .1075 .1095 .1116 .1136 .1156 .1206 .1227 .1247 .1267 .1288 .1338 .1360 .1379 .1399 .1419 .1440 .1460 .1511 .1631 .1661 .1571 .1622 $0.0478 .0537 .0558 .0578 .0698 .0618 .0676 .0696 .0716 .0737 . 0757 .0816 .0836 .0857 .0877 .0807 .0918 .0976 .0905 .1016 1036 .1056 .1115 .1136 .1156 .117» .1196 . 1217 .1274 .1204 .1315 .1336 .1365 . 1414 .1436 .1466 .1475 .1495 .1516 .1536 .1503 .1614 .1634 .1654 .1713 Picks per woven inch. 31 and 32... 33 and 34... 35 and 30... 37 and 38... 39anl40... 41 and 42... 43 and 44... 45 and 46... 47 and 48... 40 and 50... 51 and 52... 63 and 54... 55 and 56... 67 and 58... 69 and 60... 61 and 62... 63 and 64... 65 and (Mi... 67 and (18 . . 69 and 70... 71 and 72... 73 and 74... 75 and 70... 77 and 78... 79 and 80... 81 and 82... 83 and 84... 85and8n... 87 and 88... 89 and 90... 91 and 92... 93 and 94... 95 and 96... 97 and 98... 09 and 100.. 101 and 102. 103 and 104. 105 and 106. 107 and 108. 109 and 110. Ill and 112. 113 and 114. 115 and 116. 117 and 118. 119 and 120. Single white worsted. Male weaver. 1 beam. 1 shuttle. SO. .0345 ,0365 ,0385 ,0400 ,0421 ,0441 .0461 ,0482 .0497 .0517 .0537 .0558 . 0578 .0593 . 0()13 . 0(>34 .0654 .0674 .0689 .0710 .0730 0750 .0771 .0786 .0806 ,0826 .0847 .0867 .0882 .0902 .0923 .0943 .0963 .0978 .0999 .1019 .1039 .1059 .1075 .1095 .1115 .1136 .1156 .1171 .1191 2 shuttles. SO. 0365 .0385 .0400 .0426 .0446 .0466 .0482 .0502 .0527 .0547 .0568 .0583 .0603 .0629 .0649 .0669 .0684 .0705 .0730 .0750 .0771 .0784 .0806 .0831 .0852 .0867 .0887 .0907 0933 .0953 .0968 .0989 .1009 .1034 .1054 .1070 .1090 .1110 .1136 .1156 .1171 .1191 .1212 .1237 .1252 Female weaver. 1 l>eam. 1 shuttle. 2 shuttles SO. 0294 .0299 .0330 .0335 .0365 .0370 .0375 .0406 .0436 .0441 .0446 .0477 .0507 .0512 .0517 .0547 .0553 .0583 .0588 .0593 .0624 .0654 .0684 .0689 .0694 .0725 .0730 .0760 .0765 .0771 .0801 .0831 .0836 .0841 .0872 .0902 .0907 .0912 .0943 .0948 .0978 .0983 .1014 .1019 .1049 Serges. SO. 0299 .0330 0360 .0370 .0375 .0406 .0416 .0446 . 0451 .0401 .0492 .0522 .0527 .0537 .0.T68 .0598 .0608 .0613 .0642 .0652 .0683 .0689 .0720 .0730 .0760 .0765 .0776 .0800 .0830 .0847 .0852 .0882 .0912 .0923 .0928 .0958 .0968 .0973 .1004 .1014 .1044 .1049 .1080 .1090 .1119 Female weaver. Ibeam 1 shuttle. Looms |110tol2) 2 shuttles. P^°^- SO. 0243 .0259 .0274 .0279 .0294 .0309 .0324 .0340 .0355 .0370 .0385 .0400 .0416 .0419 .0434 .0449 .0456 .0471 .0487 .0502 .0517 .0532 .0547 .0553 .0568 .0583 .0598 .0613 .0629 .0634 .0649 .0664 .0679 .0694 .0710 .0725 .0730 .0745 .0760 .0776 .0791 .0806 .0821 .0820 .0841 SO. 0259 .0274 .0289 .0299 .0314 .0330 .0345 .0360 .0375 .0385 .0400 .0416 .0431 .0446 .0451 .0466 .0487 .0502 .0517 .0532 .0547 .0553 .0568 .0588 .0603 .0618 .0634 .0639 .0654 .0674 .0689 .0705 .0720 .0725 .0740 .0755 .0776 .0791 .0806 .0811 .0826 .0841 .0857 .0877 .0892 SO. 0183 .0193 .0203 .0213 .0223 .0233 ■r0243 .0253 .0264 .0274 .0284 .0294 .0304 .0314 .0324 .0335 .0345 .0355 .0365 .0375 .0385 .0395 .0406 .0416 .0426 .0436 .0446 .0456 .0466 .0477 .0487 .0497 .0.'J07 .0517 .0527 .0537 .0547 .0^58 .0568 .0578 .0588 .0598 .0608 .0618 .0629 Tlie next table, Table 4, presents the weavers' waf^e scale for Colne Valley goods, and distinguishes between the rate paid to male weavers over 21 years of age and to females and male weavers under 21 years of age. The table should be read as follows : To find the weaver's rate per yard on any cloth having a known number of j)icks to the inch, say, for instance, 30 picks, find 30 in the column of picks per inch, and following the line across it will be found that for two-shuttle work the rate is 3.65 cents per yard, for three- shuttle work it is 3.87 cents per yard, etc., if woven by men; while if woven by females or youths it is 3.09 cents per yard on two-shuttle work, 3.3 cents on three-shuttle work, etc. 'H il 720 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. TjkBLs 4. — Rates o/vmgesfor weavers in England on Colne Valley goods. \ WmTera* scale. Picks per inch. Men yrmx&m. Male and female weavers under 21 years of age. Kate yard for 2 shuttles. Rate per yard for 3 : shuttles. Rate yard for 4 shuttles. Rate yard for 5 shuttles. Rate per yard lore shuttles. Rate per yard for 2 shuttles. Rate yard for 3 shuttles. Rate per yard for 4 shuttles. Rate per yard for 5 shuttles. 9and 10 to. 0102 .0182 .0204 .0217 .0243 .0265 .0284 .0304 .0320 .0343 .0365 .0387 .0403 .0426 .0449 .0472 ""Mil' .0532 .ft't58 .0578 .0600 .0617 .0639 .0662 .0684 .0713 .0723 .0730 .0771 .0791 to. 0182 .0204 .0223 .0243 .0266 .0282 .0304 .0326 .0343 .0365 .0387 .0404 .0426 .0448 .0478 .0496 ".0639' .0688 .0608 .0630 .0647 .0669 .0097 .0724 .0730 .0759 .0782 .0813 .0830 to. 0213 .0233 ,0252 .0274 .0295 .0313 .0335 .0356 .0374 .0393 .0417 .0436 .0456 .0478 .0513 .0533 "'.6574' .0594 .0632 .0653 .0640 .0692 .0714 .0750 .0759 .0792 .0811 .0834 .0872 .0892 to. 0243 .0204 .0284 .0304 .0323 .0345 .0366 .{mi .0406 .0426 .0446 .0466 .0487 .0507 .0550 .0571 "'.'wii' .09. . . 42... 45... 48... 51... 54... 67... 60... 63... 66... 60 yards. to. 0356 .a388 .0421 .0454 .0486 .0542 .0566 .Uuwv .0630 .0664 .0680 .0744 .0745 .0808 .0842 .0890 78 yards. Picks per inch. 10.0366 1 69 .0401 72 .0434 .0469 .0502 .0551 .0564 .0619 .0653 .0687 .0736 .0709 .0604 .0638 .0871 .0921 75 %l 84 87 90 93 ■ ■ 96 WW. 102 ■ 106 108 Ill 114 117 Earnings per vard for lengths 01— CO yards. 78 yards. Fancy tweeds usually 60 yards warp, 19i strings. Worsted and serges 80 yards warp, 2.>f strings. 1 stnng=3 yards and 3 infhes. Extra shuttles over 2 paid for. All extra beams paid for. Fast looms 20 per cent less than above wages. other particulars same. 10.0923 SO. 0954 .0956 .0988 .0986 .1020 .1068 .0978 .1101 .1130 .1134 .1170 .1148 .1206 .1164 .0961 .1233 .1272 .1279 .1322 .1314 .1355 .1346 .1389 .1394 .1439 .1425 .1472 .1055 .1118 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHKDTJLB K. 723 Establishment No. J, Pudsey (near Leeds). [Length of pieces woven, 80 yards.] Picks per inch. 32 3!) 3(i 30 30 40 40 42 Width in inches. 64 63 64 64 64 62 63 64 Rate per yard. 10.0223 .0243 .0213 .0243 .0274 .0301 .0301 .0243 Picks per inch. 42 44 44 54 54 54 60 Width in Rate per yard. inches. 64 10.0314 63 .0321) 64 .0320 64 .0395 64 64i .0395 .042.5 63 .0435 Rates of wages for weavers in an English woolen mill. [Single-beam work. This woolen scale is based upon one shuttle.) Picks per inch. 18 to 20 21 to 23 24 to 26 27 to 29 Rate per yard. $0.0244 .0286 .0319 .0352 Picks i)er inch. 30 to 32 33 to 35 36 to 38 39 to 41 Rate per yard SO. 0385 .0417 .0451 .0483 Slow looms: 50 picks per minute. Fast looms: 80 to 100 picks per minute. In addition to the preceding wage scales, actual rates paid on specific cloths were secured in a number of cases. The following tables describe these fabrics and give the weaver's rate in each case. Table No. 6 is based upon cloths selected to match samples of American goods used as the basis for the general cost inquiry. These rates are all for two-loom work. Table No. 7 gives the rates for a large number of specified cloths of English make. It is mostly one-loom work in the Huddersfield district. 724 REPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Tablb 6.— Ctoi*« woven in EngiM mills, ffiving dmcnption of fabric and weaving rat€§. EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 725 Name of cloth. X) Pleoe dye suittng. Mm'sserge Men's blue serge Fancy piece dyed worsted . Black clay worsted Fancy worsted salting Fancy worsted Fancy woolen cassimere. . . Fancy woolen. Fancy woolen overcoating. Cotton warp casslmere Woolen cloth, cotton warp. Women's Panama Brillantine Woolen cloth, cotton warp. Women's serge,cotton warp Women's batiste All-wool Panama. . . . All-wool broadcloth. Women's broadcloth Covert cloth Indies 30 56 57 58 58 58 58 58 55 All-wool tweed. . . All-wool sacking.. All-wool Panama. All-wool serge. Women's cheviot Women's gray worsted . . , > Cotton. 57 16 54 56 34 40 36 36 42 54 54 40 42 54 50 54 56 57 54 54 50 36 40 50 54 54 54 54 55 60 Ouneu 7 10.5 11 13 12 16 11.5 16.5 17 •OS 8 u 0- 40 25.25 24 3, 3 4.60 4.53 4.03 7.45 8.50 3.75 5.25 7.77 5.50 11 11.5 10 15.76 11.23 9.75 4.96 5.76 7.7 9.61 9.61 12.63 14.14 9.93 14 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 8 8 4 12 4 3 12 16 2 2 4 2 3 2 2 2 3 3 3 m a « ^^^^^ weaving rate on S iT fhett te'from'Xh t^° t*\^ SJMe."Wr^ta^Er *^ ^^ -feion't^thS ^bSc^ fvnen an establishment, or a group of establishments represented by a wage scale, made a number of cloths so different from each other that a number of bases must be detailed in the scale a Una in the tabulation base has been given to each basic rate. In most German woolen and worsted mills the unit of a weaver's pay is a thousand picks, or threads of weft yam woven into the cloth. The record of his work is kept usually by ^^pick clocks," or instruments attached to the loom wluch record the times the shuttles shoot across the loom. When ''pick clocks" are not provided the measure of picks woven is taken by counting the picks in a centimeter and then assuming the number in a meter; but nowever crude, and sometimes unjust the method of measuring the work done, the unit of payment is per 1,000 picks. , The basic rate therefore assumes (1) a certain number of shuttles used in weaving the base-line fabric, (2) the number of harness used to weave the fabric, and (3) the theoretical speed of the loom. In some cases the base was further detailed by aescribing the cloth as (1) the picks per inch (or centimeter, as it is counted in Germany), (2) the width of the cloth on the loom, or as we would say "width in the reed," (3) the number of warp ends, and (4) a statement of the kind of cloth. Practically none of the scales give all of these particulars; some five little or nothing more than that rate per 1,000 picks which is to e the minimum for the estabhshment. All of these details are, however, given, though not all by any one scale, and as all are important in estimating the standard set by the scale, they are covered in the tabulation. The 64 wage scales include (1) 54 in which "Grundlohne, " or basic wage rates, are given, and (2) 10 in wliicli the rates of pay for weaving specified kinds of cloth are given. The first group of 54 appear in Table 8, and the second group of 10 appear in Table 9. From each of these tables all cloths have been excluded which do not contain wool in one form or another. 728 REPOET OF TAEIFF BOARD OIT SCHEDULE K. A O M g 43 ;?6h o ^1 I lis I 23"' a XI o U REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 729 I If !€ 43 Is-s 8 A 11 B a g] ^zi^-^o •H 1-1 I CI IN CO CO o«p >o t I M V CI t N C-l 4" e?! c^ »6 lA MOO r^f. in in lO ui ooooro 8 in t^ to o to t>. 00 f5 CI coo CO •— I '"' o ^^ Oc>0"«»< r* t^ 1^ (^ t^ U3 I 2 u a •a *J3 Q OS c^ • • ^H "^^ ^[j« ^qi aSo ooooooooocSoooo M ^OgJCl^^^ M fl CI CO -ViO "icieJf c5 1 CO • CO ••J 10 ® r^ 00 00 CI •ininioininin'^ S -S r J I o k o St 01 000 co'V •>»« in o ' bc22 : i2 £ g gX!J3 60 9 I •twit a a a i CO ■s i a a %HI o 3 t: ^< 43 01 a "n 43 a TJ 93 5 ^ v—l a Ill 730 BBPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K, X o is d o 5 SR <» ^^ "•■^ ^^ _, tn OS'S .9.2 « i?"9 03 l«* O CM Q.-" k 01 CA w d d*j Ip .3 o .a o rd O 3 M E-«P^ , ^TS-ti-a S » £ ! ^^ d 3 d t»> >>"t: d en r* dfe!^ O OS p o % S Is P o d 9 > d REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1S1 i '=9 -rr: « en p = M .95 — o • ^ ^ V d -ij Ji l»tS 'Era ■*-• 5l S ^ g a lO'O'O'Oeoeocoeo CO €0 CO CO "V ^ ^ "V o g S tn a OS-is A^ ftS 3 S £-1 E^ eS S S S S S S U3 S S S 3 H 01 S opoOQpoCQpooooQpopapoOQp ^2 w cooocococooooococoooooco 00 00 fO'O do* 00 ■n (MOON (Mwe* TT :TTTT :6i p 9 d '99c 88| :8|9 **** **'** mUL M ^^ ^^ mmm ||-o9||^ H C o 5 H C o p p r 8S 13 s>-3 Ota '^'3 - ■ ^ a 03 :| is " aj 2 o) 3 C3 £■■* gO r* CO m O ; d -fJ ■ OO tS:0 b - -" CO w (h r" >-'■• ?».\ i; t MNCM CO 2 «3 •o CQ I ■n ^ ^ •9 o d « . o o) ^ 1^ . 03 (D • 9 CO 60 ® CJ S5^M.9^« 2 SS 2 9 fe P p ■— I a ^'2^<1pS .25 - - P j2 ^ 3 tad :§* Id"© fe§ b .d S oJ 'OS'S |»l w © o d'H'2 ^'3 fl dH_- 2o«p- r'S^ftp5ti£-s =;oc-9-^0-^.i«< d ^'2 f^ ^• s 01 ®p£f--S.d^^'^ ;d> . o Pd fl £ diS.2 •CQ CD 'V CO ■ w ^ ^ ^* T.^ C^ cjcic^i coco »OU3TOCOC«5CCei;-* cocoer3co- O 0> O^ CO 00 tocf^ Ot-t-t-|..>. •-•.»-•-••».§, SSS5SSS5S? : ■ I. o§ cj e* « 53 « 2i CI _ . • OOoSoooo o eo' s c< • ■ • . (£> . OOCON'V<«<<»cDi(«CJ>«00 00«--5OJ 81 : QDHt . .A4. ^ 7 7^^ : : : : t>i M © L., ^ b '^ S © o S d 5-« 9 e®d «©»w 9 o 9 d c3 5 > •« « CQ « la ^H^IIPIfll'™"""'"''"'"""'"""" "■""" "I "" ""iii"ii"«i"tpiii"»iiiiiiiiiii 732 •S u o o 8 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 6 i 5' K^5 .g3 3 'H' IlZi JSa S "2 1' « f i ^^ Oil o M eo -^ ^ «o QOOOOOOOOOQCe5 o d> d> A I :i|il|8il c5 * ' ^^_-i »,---i**p*»-»*^*--*»^»*'^******** a q> O' o "3 --A O (2 p ill Ss3S§8?58S?g g'S888§5SS'53S3SSSSS18 g i M o o REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 733 •♦J o u o d o 8 u SP .2 u o a ■c o "3 O .9 • O pj C3 •n w 5 (N 3 b£ a _r-: t-l o 00 a .9 =J O' o CO "3 8 sa-g o .-( o O o o CO O o s n i^S »Q 3 M O •d 2S • • «M -4-A 'n ga TJ-d 03 C3 O O • « 3 3 >CGO 0000000000000006+s+aOOOOOO T? *3 'O 'O '3 '3 TS '3 "3 TS '3 *3 "3 '3 ^3*3 ■♦^ ** XS "3 *3 ^3 "3 '3 ■ ■■■■■■■>■■■■■■■ "~* "^H BS coco 13.53 tf^^ • «-• I . 05 a°'2i:3 3 fe2.a§ 13 - - . I C^ CM IM ( oooooooo< I c) CM cj I I O O O O I ■VcO^CDCDCOO'^epCVIi _ . CO t^ 00 00 C30 00 O i-i PC 10 I oi oi cik' p""*! p""^ *"** ("J l yn •■"'I l^i^.-g. <8 :3 3 0) ,0000000 flj'O'd'O'O'O'O'O N Worsted do Raw Worsted do Wool do Worsted do do M £l?-«^ «^ w « e^ " M m3 a CI Ci 9 ^ ^ wool 1 5 •> . O O O O o o o I I • 666666d666 ■IjlJ 13 13 "CJ 'nJ tJ _2 TJJ TH? tlJ S ' ' ' : :5 CO «Ci S2 2SS2SSS5S2S • ■'I'iN. t-i'*cM(M«ot^t-ao»o ICO ^ ioiotoioio>o>o>oi-ici>-4i-iC4f-i>-4e-^e*M»-n^ci ^ 3 t3 d. o> o o> lO >0 >i3 IQ O CI i3> IQIOO o © e3 S8S S 8888SS8i288SSSSS3SSS s;iS§S3S^53g^;§?!S o fe.95 a fc4 ffl C2l C5 C^ O -3 s |ggggg|§2 2§gSSS3SSS S oo(0o>w*N « 'N •«« -r-w* ml 3 rj 3 .+a CD p-^ ^^ ^^ 3 -M rj trt 0"2-3 . O 2 03 O — CO . osSq Pi ^ 5 a 8 800 $^ ^V lO ^O 00 O^ 4 1^ K 5^ f^ f N» r^ f» i QQQQQOOOt OOOOOOOOi I ^^ Q r-< Q Q I O O O O O C^ O* ^ ^ t** ^^ f—* -^ - ^ t-^ CO -nsTf 3 3 «-5a 3 |l| m n 1^ ^ • CO • ^ !9i BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 735 ^ ^ S 5^ 5S -".^ «; 3 o -eg ..Co §> &(-; OS « g o-S.b aS a aSo«5-£'-So o-sSoo A^ • . 8S O O i-i^§§Sc5 ■ god i-^o , > , '.-^ • "o w.tj o' S ^ ^ « Ho « si «5i-5^??$-? C4< 8Q •QOQOQNOOtOOOCXSO Ncf • ec C0'(N'ci(N TO(N'n rt''r4"T-r SS^iS 1*^355 J§^5gjS;S S^9iot:^@8^&SS€$ggj SS?5g5?^ggg8gg8?5S M 'W a :u 9V 9 00O000OO00C3OO0 I I t4 S 3 736 BEPOBT OF TABTFF BOABD ON BCHEDULE K. !■ Of the 64 wage scales shown in Tables 8 and 9, representmg about 264 establishments, Nos. 51, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 60, and 61 are groups of establishments; 52, 59, 62, and 63 are locality groups, showing rates for practically all the establishments in the respective neighborhoods; 21 is the lowest rate scale which subcontractors in Aachen pay to their weavers. All other scales are for individual establishments, from a few of which there are two reports, which may be recognized under a given number with a letter following, as 4 a and 4b, 23a and 23b, etc. In 42 schedules the rate is per 1,000 picks of filling yam. In 16 schedules the rate is per cut or per piece of specified length, variously termed a "cut" or "Band," or "Schmitz." In the Gera-Greiz-Elsterbcrg district, as shown in schedules 60, 61, 62 and 63, and in the Glauchau-Meerane-Seiferitz district, Schedule 52 the unit of pay for weavers is 100 Zalilen, or 100,000 meters of fiUing yarn woven into the cloth. With the excep- tion of Schedules 33, 48, and 52, in which certain necessarv data were not submitted, all scales were reducible to the 1,000-pick basis and are so treated. The 2-loom towns are in the Gera-Greiz- Elsterberg, and the Glauchau-Meerane-Seiferitz districts. In general it may be assumed that rates appearing in the tables under 6 pfennigs (14.3 mills) per 1,000 picks are 2-loom rates or are for more easily woven women's wear. Not considering establishments 33. 48, and 52, whose rates on account of a lack of data can not be reduced to the common 1,000-pick basis, the two tables show that 16 establishments or groups prodiice certain cloths on which they pay between 1.62 and 5.81 pfennigs per 1,000 picks as a lowest rate. Ten establishments or groups produce certain cloths on which they pay between 6 and 8.8 pfennigs per 1,000 picks as a lowest rate; 24 establishments or groups produce certain cloth on which they pay between 9 and 10.9 pfennigs per 1,000 picks as a lowest rate; 28 establishments or groups produce certain cloths on which they pay between 11 and 12.7 pfennigs per 1,000 picks as a lowest rate; 10 establishments or groups produce certain cloths on which they pay between 13 and 14.9 pfennigs per 1,000 picks as a lowest rate; 4 estabhshments or groups produce certain cloths on which they pay between 15 and 16.5 pfennigs per 1,000 picks as a lowest rate. The explanation for the low rates, from 1.62 to 5.81 pfennigs is that the cloths manufactured at such weaving rates are women's- wear fabrics of light weight, and cotton warp, or weft, and that it is 2-loom work on fast looms. The usual rate on men's wear woolens and worsteds, with the weaver tending 1 loom, ranges from 9 to 13 pfennigs per 1,000 picks, 40,000 to 55,000 picks woven per day be- ing a good day's production for a good weaver. The prevailing lowest rates may be shown further as follows in Table 10: BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 10. 737 Kate per 1,000 picks. Nnmber of establisli- ments.i Schedule numbers. 1.62- 6.81 pfennigs 11 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 12 2 1 1 17 2 1 2 1 34. 37. 38. 39. 40. 43. 44. 45b. 60. 61. 62. * 1.62- 8.8 pfennigs 42.63. 1.62-12.7 pfennigs 45a. 1.62-14.9 pfennigs 4a. CO - 8.8 pfennigs 46. Co -10.9 pfennigs 22,30. CO -12.7 pfennigs 31. 47. CO -16.5 pfennigs 27. 9.0 -10.9 pfennigs 1. 2. 3. 5. 6 7 8 12 32 55 56 57 9.0 -12.7 pfennigs 4b. 64. 9.0 -14.9 pfennigs SO. 9.0 -16.5 pfennigs 10. 1 1.0 -12.7 pfennigs 9. 11. 13. 14. 16. 17. 18 19 20 21 23a 24 29 53 11.0 -14.9 pfennigs 64, 68, 59. 25,28. 11.0 -1G.5 pfennigs 61. 13.0 -14.9 pfennigs 15 49 13.0 -10.5 pfennigs 23b. k » Not including thr^e (Nos. 33, 48, 53) whose rates as reported can not be reduced to l,00(>-pick basis. Day rates were reported as follows: Estab- lishment or group No. 3 4b 6 8 19 24 25 29 30 30 46 50 Rates for time workers. 3.25 marks (77 cents) to 5 marks (S1.19) per day. Day rate is found in particular instances by taking the average of the weaver's pieoeding 6 week days. 35 pfennigs per hour= 8.3 cents. 35 pfennigs per hour= 8.3 cents. 35 pfennigs per hour= 8.3 cents. 25 pfennigs per hour for males=5.95 cents. 20 pfennigs per hour for females= 4.76 cents. 30 pfennigs per hour for men for work out of the ordinary— 7.14 cents. 25 pfennigs per hour for women for work out of the ordinary=5. 95 cents. 16 marks ($3.81) per week as lowest rate for males over 18 years old, and an additional 10 per cent increase, subsequently added, making #4.19 the minimum. 12 marks ($2.86) to 14.50 marks ($3.45) per week as lowest pay for males 16 to 18 years old. 8 marks ($1.90) to 10 marks ($2.38) per week as lowest pay for males 14 to 16 years old. 12 marks ($2.86) as lowest pay per week for females over 18 years old. 10 marks ($2.38) to 11 marks ($2.62) as lowest pay per week for females 16 to 18 years old, 8 marks ($1.90) to 9 marks (12.14) as lowest pay for females 14 to 16 years old. 30 pfennigs= 7.14 cents per hour for males over 19 years old. 25 pfennigs=5.95 cents per hour for females over 19 years old. 23 pfennigs=5.47 cents per hour for male-s up to 19 years old. 18 pfennigs= 4.28 cents per hour for females up to 19 years old. 30 pfennigs= 7.1 4 cents per hour for males; 20 pfennigs -per homr for females. 25 pfennigs=5.95 cents per hour for weavers over 21 years old. 20 pfennigs=4.76 cents per hour for weavers up to 21 years old. 15 pfennigs==3.57 cents per hour for weavers up to 18 years old. 10 pfeimigs=2.38 cents per hour for weavers up to 16 years old. No rates appear in Table 8 except the lowest rates paid for the goods specified under the cloth organization set opposite the rates, and, ms far as possible, the same elimination of rates rising above the minimum on particular fabrics has been made in Table 9. It will be understoocl that from the rates shown in the two tables the pay of weavers increases according to such changes in their work as are brought about by using more narnesses or more ends of warp or yarns of different size and breaking strength, etc. Such increase in the weaver's rate is from J pfennig (J mill) to 3 pfennigs (7 mills) per unit of pay. In general the rates shown in the tables, and par- ticularly in Table 8, are paid for cloths woven with simple weave, T38 MUSirKflkX \fM XJUJkMJl X IMJAMU/ vVi oKfXXmJUVjLmi JEk« BEPOET OP TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. with 3 shuttles or less, with not over 8 harnesses, with from 40 to 50 picks per inch, with a reed width of 50 inches generally, and upon plam looms with a speed of approximately 70 to 80 picks per minute, but in pajdng weavers the German manufacturer has taken account of many more factors in the weaving than the American manufac- turer, so that while the rates shown in the tables may appear very low they do not show aU that the weaver gets. Changes in any one or all of the factors shown opposite each rate, or others not shown in the tables at all, may mean an increase in the weaver's pay. Prac- tically the only factor that would reduce the rates snown is an increased speed of the loom, and only a few scales make that provi- sion. In certain establishments also the weaver gets extra pay for work collateral to weaving, such as helping to set warp beams in place,^ tyin^-in warp ends, and he is paid for loss of production due to waiting for repairs or materials or lor badly running yarns. While Germany is practically a one-loom country, taere are districts such as the Gera-Greiz-Elsterberg district and the Glauchau-Meerane-Seifpritz and the Lambrecht districts, where the weaver tends two or more looms and earns from 25 per cent to 100 per cent additional pay for each additional loom even at the reduced rate per 1,000 picks. For operating *'Wechselstuhlen," or shift looms which permit the use of variously colored fiUing threads, the weavers m the Gera district receive a rate 33 per cent higher, and for operating many other kinds of looms which are complicated or very old or are capable of weaving intricate patterns the rates as shown in Tables 8 and are increased. The following table shows other factors in the make-up of cloth which cause an mcrease in the rates of pay shown in Tables 5 and 9 : Weaver's rate sbown in TahJm XI and m increaae witli— An increase in niimbf>r of harnesses. An increase in number of shuttles An increase in nurabor of warp ends A change in the number of picks of filling An increaae in the number of colored threads. Tl» use of coarser yarn. The nse of carded vara warp T' tin njM ojf li | M H y f*l r fliltfiif 0f* IIIIcIbI' WftrD 1L0 til** crease weight of cloth The use of 1-pIy carded wool yam The use of 2 beams A change in the width of the cloth The ose lishmcnta or groups in whjcn the amount of increase in rate varies withpaiw ticufar kinds of oloth.1 S 1 s f 6 I t Amomit of incriiaEO In rate per unit not exceeding the amounts shown for other changes in conditions ofweavim. For weavinff pattern cuts or samples weavers are paid extra wages in moat establishments. Their pay for such usually varies with mo 739 length of the cut and consists in a percentage increase over the rates shown m Tables 8 and 9, as follows: Table 12, — For weaving patterns. Establish- I ment or group No. 46 6 6 7 13 15 17 18 70 23a 235 24 25 30 45b 49 Rate of pay. 40 pfMmigs per hour equal 9.52 cents. Day rate, determined by averaging last 4 to 6 pays. iJ»ay rate, determined by averaging last 4 pays. In ^l ^!°^ ^ii^^ !° regular rates for patterns 31 to 50 meters long. ?S Sr ol^f oHH^i 1° '■^S''^'" ""^^^ 1°'' patterns 16 to 30 meters long. 9 Jo«^T *^ added to regular rates for patterns 10 to 15 meters long. A Kfe^f ! f ^"^ iSSSf "'^"^ ^' ^'^ ^^^ patterns 10 to 25 m^ers long. P?f fl^f i^'^''^^!?'*^ "^"^^ P^ ^'^ V^^^ patterns up to 10 meters loi^ Patterns longer than 25 meters ( . ) are counted as 2 patterns. lU per cent added to regular rates for patterns 30 to 40 meters long. ^0 per cent added to regular rates for patterns 20 to 30 meters l(w. 30 per cent added to regular rates for patterns 10 to 20 meters Ion?. 60 per cent added to regular rates for patterns under 10 meters long. Double the rate for first 3 meters of pattern. 10 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern 40 meters long. 20 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern 30 meters long. ' 30 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern 25 meters long. 50 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern 20 meters long 15 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern over 30 meters long. 20 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern over 20 meters long. 30 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern over 10 meters long. 50 per cent added to regular rate for a pattern under 10 meters long. 15 per cent added to regular rate for a woolen pattern 20 meters long. 30 per cent added to regular rate for a worsted pattern 20 meters lo^. 15 per cent added to regular rate lor a woolen pattern over 5 meterslong. ^ EP/ ?i added to regular rate for a worstedpattem over 5 meters long. I'artiai length over 5 meters are paid for on same basis as full pieces. 1 pfenmg equals $0.00238 more than 1,000 picks. Receive day rate (see other table) if pattern is over 1 meter long. Receive no extra pay if pattern is under 1 meter long. i5 per cent added to regular rate for patterns under 20 meters long. 10 pfennigs equal $0.0238 per 4 meters on patterns with from 50 to 86 picks per inch. ?l? ^"J?^ ^H^^ $0.0476 per 4 meters on patterns with over 86 picks per inch. An additional 10 pfennigs per 4 meters for patterns with a backing. For overtime, night work, and Sunday work, certain establish- ments pay additional wages above the rates shown m Tables 8 and 9, as follows: Table 13. I . Establish- ment or group No. 23a 34 29. 30 31 63 Kind of work. From 6 p. m. to 10 p. m., or Sunday. After lOp.m (Nlgjitwork '...'. •| Overtime work [Sunday work [[ (Overtime work 10 p. m. to 6 a. m. and Stm- diay work. Overtime work; Sunday work. Overtime work Overtime and night work . . . How paid for. 20 por cent Increase. 40 per cent Increase. 8 Males 30 pfennig per hour equals $0,714. Females 25 pfeiung per hour equals $0.06%. 25perccntincrcase\o„ «• „, j, 50 per cent Increase/ ^^™® ^°^ "^^^^ and females. 35 pfennig eqnals $0.0833 per hour for males over 19 years old 33 per cent Increase for males. 3 marks per day equals $0,714. The German weaver is subject to fines as high as 3 marks (71.4 cents) in particular instances, and in one establishment is said to be required to take the imperfect cloth. Tardiness and imperfect picks in the cloth are the usual causes for fines. Establishment 9 740 BEPOKT OF TAKITP BOAED 02^ SCHEDXTLE K. EEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. fines weavers 20 pfennigs (5 cents) for 15 minutes' tardiness and gives the fine to the best general worker in the estabhshment. For more than 8 filling or weft thread breaks, establishment 49 fines weavers 10 pfennigs (2.38 cents) per break, and they forfeit their premium if a filling break goes over half the width of a cloth that is Deing woven on a loom equipped with a pick clock. Other deduc- tions are made as foUows in certain establishments: Schedule No. Why made. Amount deducted. 20 On looms rmming— 70 to 79 picks per minute 6 per cent less than rate. 80 to 89 picks per minute 12 per cent lass than rate. 90 to 100 picks per minute 18 per cent less than rate. 1 pfennig per 1,000 picks less. 1 pfennig per 1,000 picks less, li pfennig per 1,000 picks less. 2 pfennig per 1,000 picks less. fh pfennig per 1,000 picks, males. \2 pfennig per 1,000 picks, females. 21 On looms running— 68 to SO picks per minute 80 to 90 picks p<^r minute 90 to 100 picks per mluute 23a 100 to 120 picks per minute On looms ranning 90 picks per minute On the Other hand the weaver is protected against loss of produc- tion on account of repairs, or on account of waiting for materials, or badly running warp or fiUing yams, either by giving him work on an- other loom, or by putting him on a time rate determined by averag- ing his three to six preceeding weekly pays, as foUows: Table 14. Establish- ment or group No. Reasons for change or in- crease of rates shown in Tables 8 and 9. 4b. 6.. 12. 18 and 20. 28 31 61. 00, 61, 62, and 63. 63 Waiting for materials. Imperfect yarns Waiting for materials . Imperfect materials. . Waiting for materials . ...do Imperfect yams Waiting for materials. Change of work Waiting for materials, pat- tern weaving. Imperfect warps Waiting for materials. Waiting for repairs. . . Waiting for materials. Waiting for material Waiting for materials Weaving on Wechselloom. Change in rate or manner of pay of weavers when repairs, 'or waits, or badly running materials make regular rates inoper- ative. 25 pfennip (6 cents) per hour after fifth hour. Day rate, determined by averaging the weaver's 7 previous pays- IDay rate, determined by averaging the weaver's 3 previous pays, and ranging from 3.25 marlcs (77 cents) to 5 marks (11.19) per day. 15 pfennigs (4 cents) per loom and per hour after the sixth hour. I the day rate (average pay for last 6 weeks) after the sixth hour. An average pay on corresponding class of goods. Day rate, from 3.50 marlcs (83 cents) to 4 marks (95 cents) per day. 40 pfennigs (10 cents) per hour or may work on another loom. 15 pfemxigs per hour (3.6 cents). Average pay for last 3 months. New weaver would receive at least 3 marks (71 cents) per day. 35 pfennigs (8 cents) per hour if over 21 years old; 30 pfen- nigs (7 cents) per hour if under 21 years old. Day rate 2.t50 marks (02 cents) per day, after second hour. Must begin work on another loom or gets at rate of 2.00 marks (02 cents) per day. When defective material such as warps, weft, or harnesses have to be made ready, the weaver goes on an average wage rate of last 6 pays. After 4 hours must be provided with other weaving work, if possible, that is equally remunerative, or be given other kind of work at regular pay for that work. 10 pfennigs (2 cents) per loom per hour after fifth hour. 33 per cent added for male weavers. As elsewhere stated the Gera-Greiz wage scales were reduced to a 1,000 pick basis for purposes of comparison in Tables 8 and 9. This was done, however, on the arbitrary basis of assuming the mini- mum width in the reed to which a rate applied. To make this matter -) 741 clear and to enable anyone to figure out for himself the weaver's rate on any given cloth in the Gera district, a translation of this exceedingly elaborate and complicated scale is here presented. This wage scale is based upon a 100,000 meters of weft yarn woven into cloth on the loom. Of course, the width of the cloth in the reed must be known before any estimate can be made of how many picks a 100,000 meters of yam would yield. The scale provides for different rates, for different widths on the reed, but in Tables 8 and 9 it was re- duced to 1,000 picks at the breaking point of rates. That is to say, if the rate was for a reed space of 55 inches or over, the 1,000 pick rate was calculated at 55 reecl space: for the reason that Tables 8 and 9 are for the purpose of comparing basic rates, and basic rates are either minimum rates or are on a specific cloth taken as a standard of pay. The following is a translation of the scale itself, and in it the money payments have been retained in marks and pfennigs, or rather, marks and decimals of a mark ($0,238), for lack of time to prepare it in any other form: Table 15. — Minimum wage schedule for woolen raw goodsinforc^ for mills of the United Sachsische-Thuringischer weaving mills from August 6, 1911. Local Group I (Gera). Posi- tion No. LOCAL GROUPS I AND H. 1. Kaschmier: Less than 300 ends to 5i inches up to 55 Inches reed space Less than 300 ends to 5J inches above 55 inches reed space 300-340 ends to b\ inches up to 55 inches reed space 300-340 ends to SJ inches above 55 inches reed space More than 340 ends to SJ inches up to 55 inches reed space More than 340 ends to 6J inches above 55 inches reed space Goods of more than 39J inches reed space. Single. LOCAL GROUP HI. I. Kaschmier: Kaschmier, long Long, rips, 2 ends per dent 2a. Tibet (worsted merino) 4-harness tw^ili: Less than 360 ends to 5i inches up to 55 inches reed space Less than 360 ends to 5i inches above 55 inches reed space 360 ends and more to 5J inches up to 55 inches reed space 360 ends and more to 5J inches above 65 inches reed space 7b. Worsted, croise and foules: Inclusive, 440 ends to 5J inches up to 51 inches reed space Inclusive, 440 ends to 5J inches above 51 inches reed space More than 440 ends to 5J inches up to 51 inches reed sx>aoe More than 440 ends to 5J inches above 51 inches reed space 2c. Worsted, twill, 5 and 6 harness: Inclusive, 440 ends to 5^ inches More than 440 ends to 5J inches 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Marks. 2.05 2.00 2.15 2.10 2.25 2.20 2.00 2.30 2.20 2.10 2.45 2.30 2.55 2.40 2.75 2.60 2.75 2.85 Twist. Single, Goods of more than 35J inches up to 39 J Inches reed space. Goods of 35§ inches and less reed space. Marks. L95 LOO 2.05 2.00 2.15 2.10 2.00 2.30 2.10 2.05 2.30 2.20 2.40 2.25 2.65 2.50 2.65 2.75 Marks. 2.20 Twist Marks. 2.10 2.30 2.45 2.15 2.50 2.35 2.65 2.75 2.95 2.95 3.05 1 2.20 2.30 2.15 2.50 2.25 Single. Marks 2.25 2.35 2.50 2.20 2.55 Twist. Marks. 2.15 2.25 2.35 2.20 2.55 2.45 2.30 2.50 2.70 2.60 2.85 2.85 2.95 2.80 3.05 2.55 2.65 2.90 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 ^9 3.15 1 3.05 742 BBPOHT OP TABIFF BOABD OHf SCHBDUUB K. KEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 743 Table Id.— Minimum wage sdudulejfor woolen raw goods in force /or mills of the United SacfmKhe-Thuringtm:her wmving milh/rmn Au^n^t 6, 1911 — Continued. Local Group I (Gera). Goods of Goods of more than Goods of 35| POdl- morettum 33^ inches tiu^hesand tlon 39| Inches np to 39} less No. reeii spaat. inches reed. space. reedspace. Singl©. Twist. Single. Twist. Single. Twist. LOCAL GKOUP in~continue 5.10 4.90 single warp 41 5.05 5.45 1.55 7e. Btani.nes: Up to yam No. 9 ( English worsted No.) Above vam No. 9 (English worsted No.) up to 45 7.05 G.90 8.55 7.40 8.75 7.60 13| (English worsted No.) 4f. 6.90 5.85 7. 40 G.30 7.00 6.45 8. Coating lor confection (Tibet with lining), harness. 47 3.30 3.10 3.55 3.35 3.65 3.40 9. Corkscrew for conlectton: Up to 500 ends to 5J inches reed space 48 3.75 3.55 4.05 3.80 4.15 3.90 Up to SCO ends to 5-1 inches reed space AboT© 5«0 op to 640 ends to Si indies reed s|)ac6. 49 3.85 3.55 4.15 3.80 4.25 3.90 50 3.95 3.(i5 4.25 3.96 4.35 4.00 10. Armures, with more than 109 picks per Inch (fill- ing teed) 51 2.80 1.70 3.00 2-90 3.10 2.95 11. Head-motion looms (with exception of thoa© arti- cles nnder No. 15): Less than 400 ends to 54 inches m 3.20 3.20 3. 45 3.45 3.50 3.50 With chenot yam warp m 3.30 ass 3.65 400 ends and less than 480ends to 5i inches reed space M 55 3.S5 3.30 3.25 3.75 3.30 3.70 3.85 3.60 With crheviot yarn warp 4S0 ends and less than €00ends to 5^ iuchm reed spaoo. ......•.,.,.,.......,... 56 3.55 3.45 3.80 3.70 3.90 3.80 600 ends and less than 720eQds to 5^ inclies reed si>ace 57 3.85 3.66 4.13 3.95 4.25 4.00 720 ends and inclusive 800 andi to 5^ inches reed space 58 4.25 3.95 4-55 4. 25 4.70 4.35 Above 800 ends to 3i iocteieed space 59 4.75 4.45 &10 4.80 &25 4.90 Tabli: 15. — Minimum wage schedule for woolen raw goods in/orcefor mills of the United Sadisische-Thuringischer weaving mills from August 6, 1911 — Continued. LOCAL GROUP I. Por 13 harness and more, 20 pfennig additional per 100.350 yard fiUiug.......--.: ^ 12. Flula jacquard with less tiian 480 ends per 5^ inches reed space With cheviot yarn warp 480 ends and less than 560 ends to i^ inches reed space With cheviot yarn warp '..'..'...... 5G0 ends and more to 5} inches reed space 13. Jacquard im worsted with silk or chappe imita- tion up to 480 ends to 5^ inches reed space Above 480 ends to 3| inches reed space -. 14a. Jacquard 1 111 worsted or cotton with mohair, camel hair, luster or weft (with exception of so-called staple half- wool luster): Light weave Musselin ground with 400 ends "to 5* "inches" reed space inclusive Dauble motion, 1 pick A bo ve 400 ends to 5J inches reed space [ - . - - Double motion, 1 pick I LOCAL GEO UP m. 15a. All mohair, camel hair, luster, or weft, bead mo- tion looms: Up to 320 ends to 5J inches reed space More than 320 ends up to 400 ends to 5J inches reed space Double motion, 1 pick ..[[ Above 400 ends to 5i inches reed space .' .'.'. Double motion, 1 pick LOCAL GROUP XL 6. All mohair, camel hair, luster,orweft on jacquard: Up to 320 ends, inclusive, to5J inches ra^dspace Up to 400ends, inclusive, to5|laclie8reed£T>ace Double motion, 1 pick Above 400 ends to 5 J inches reod space 1 ! ! Double motion, 1 pick 17a. Indian worsted— Yarn slialos with warn fringes - _. _. (^ it h filling border) above 49i inches reed space 170. Indian cheviot shales with warp fringes (with filling border) 17c. Indian raw— Shales ' \ LOCAL GROUPS II AlfD lU. 18. Ripse With double motion, 1 pick: 18a. With single filling-.--. 186. With double and triple spooled fuitnc—" 22 J ( English worsted No. ). . 22H8 (English worsted No. )..-'] 18-13J (English worsted No.) - - - iQ -r , . ^eJowl3H English worsted No.) iw. Ladies' cioth (worsted warp with woolen filling) Kaschmier weave A tlas less than 4S0 ends to 5* inches reed ^wice . '. Atlas 480 ends and more than 500 ends to 54 inches reed space Local Group I (Gera). Posi- tion No. Goods of more than 3Si inches reed space. CO 61 62 63 64 65 66 07 C8 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 75 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 Single. Goods of more than 35i inches up to 39i mches reed space. Twist. Single. Twist. Single Goods of 33J inches and less reed spoce. Marks. 3.70 3.80 3.95 4.05 4.20 4.00 4-15 4.40 4.95 6.50 5.25 6.95 Marks. 3.90 4.55 6.25 4.95 6.50 1.95 2-20 2.20 5.10 3.00 3.55 3.75 3.60 3.85 *4.'i6' 4.00 4.15 4.40 4.95 6.50 5 25 6.05 Marks. Marks 3.90 4.55 6.25 4.95 6.50 4.95 6.20 7.05 5.45 7.30 1.90 2.10 2.45 4-85 5.75 6.30 7.40 9.05 2.80 3.30 3.55 4.00 4.10 4.25 4 35 4.30 4.30 4.45 4.75 6.30 7.00 5.65 7.45 3-85 4.23 4.90 6.70 5.30 7.00 4.15 4.40 4.30 4.45 4.75 5.30 7-00 5.65 7.45 Twist. Mariit. Metrkf. 4.20 4.90 6.70 5.30 7.00 5. .30 6.60 7.60 5.85 7.83 4.05 4.20 4.35 4.45 4.60 4 40 4.55 4.85 5.45 7.15 5.75 7.63 4.30 5.00 6.85 5.45 7.15 5.50 3.25 3.80 4.05 5.20 6.20 6. 75 7.95 9.75 3.00 3.55 3.80 5.60 3.30 3.90 4.15 3.95 4.25 '4.56 4.40 4.55 4.85 5.45 7.15 5.75 7.65 4.30 5.00 6.85 5.45 7.15 5.45 S.'O 7.75 6^00 8.05 5.35 6.30 6.95 8.15 9.95 10 65 3.90 !kl 1*1 744 KEPORT OP TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDULE K. 745 I Table 15. — Mnimum wa^e schedule for woolen raw goods in force for milU of the United Sachsische-Thuringwcher weamng mills from August 6, 1911 — (IWtinued. LOCAL GBOUPS I AND H. 1, Kaschmier: Less than 300 ends to 5i inches up to 55 inches reed space Less than 300 ends to 5^ inches above 55 inches reed space 300-340 ends to 6| inches up to 55 incheo reed space 300-^40 ends to 5^ inches above 55 inches reed space — More than 340 ends to 5^ inches up to 55 inches reed space More than 340 ends to M inches above 55 inches reed space LOCAL OROtJP m. 1. Kaschmier: Kaschmier, long Long, rips, 2 ends per dent 2b. Tibet (worsted merino), 4-hames8 twill: Less than 300 ends to 5| inches, up to 55 inches reed space Less than 360 ends to 5$ inches, above 55 inches reed space 360 ends and more to 5) inches, up to 55 inches reed space 360 ends and more to 5) inches, above 55 inches reed space 3fr. Worsted, croise and foules: Inclusive, 440 ends to 5i Inches, up to 51 inches reed space Inclusive, 440 ends to 5i inches, above 51 inches reed space More than 440 ends to 5^ inches, up to 51 inches reed space More than 440 ends to 5i inches, above 51 inches reed space ae. Worsted, twill, 5 and 6 harness: Inclusive, 440 ends to 6i inches More than 440 ends to 5^ inches 2i. Cheviot, twill, 4-0 harness: Inclusive 320 ends to 6i inches reed space More than 320 ends to 5^ inches reed space 2e. Worsted, warp twill, 4-hamess (3 up, 1 down): Inclusive, 440 ends to 6^ inches reed space More than 440 ends to Sj inches reed space 3. Kaschmier, serge, 3-hames8 weave: Inclusive, 4 IlL With colored borders (Inclusive fliltag border) 18. Kipse with double motion, 1 pick: 180. With single filling 18b. With double and triple spooled filling— 224 (English worsted No.) 22|-18 (English worsted No.) 18-13J (English worsted No.) Below \^ (English worsted No.) Ladies' cloth (worsted warp with woolen filling) Kasch m ier weave Atlas less than 480 ends to ^ taclies reed space . . Atlas 480 ends and more than 500 ends to 5| inches reed space Local Group II (Oreiz). Posi- tion No. 19. 77 78 79 80 81 83 81 8-1 85 86 87 89 to 91 02 93 M 95 96 97 98 99 100 Goods of more than 39§ inches rood space. Single. Marks. 3.90 4.35 6.25 4.66 6.50 4.30 4. 20 &ao 4.95 4.96 7.05 5.20 7.30 195 2.20 2. 20 5.10 Twist. Goods of more than 35^ inches up to 39| mches reed space. Single. Twist. 3.00 3.35 3.55 MaTk$. 3.90 4.35 0 ends to 5^ inches reed space 4.05 2.60 2.70 Above 300 ends up to 400 ends to 5J inches reed space 2.90 Above 400 ends to 5i inches 3.35 6ft. Narrow Elsasser print, musselins With inside selvace (double pieces) 2.00 2.00 1.90 1.80 2.00 2.00 1.90 1.80 LOCAL GEOUPS U AND HI. Plauensche musselins: Up to 51 inch«^s reed space 2.15 2.15 2.20 2.20 Above 51 inches up to 63 inch(^ reed space More than 63 inches reed snace ::::::j:::;:::i (Sc. Japan musselins: 32J inches to 37 inches reed snaco 2.30 2.30 With inside selvage (double pieces) 2.66 i66 748 BEPOBT OF TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDUUE K. KEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 749 Table 15.— Mnimttm wage schedule for woolen raw goods in force for mills of the United Saehnsche-Thuringischer weaving mills from August 6, 19ii— Continued. LOCAL GROUPS u AND III— Continued. 7a. Voile, musselin: Up to yam No 22 (English worsted No.). Above yam No. 22 (English worsted No.). Above yarn No. 48 (English worsted No 76. Voile, jacquards: . ^ », ^ Up to yam No. 22 ( English worsted No.) Anove yam No. 22 (English worsted No.) Above yam No. 48 (English worsted No.), single warp 7e, Etaminies: Up to yam No. 9 (English worsted No.).. Above yam No. 9 ( English worsted No.) up to 13| (English worsted No.) 8. Coating for confection (Tibet with lining), harness. 9. Corkscrew for confection: Up to 500 ends to 5i inches reed space Up to 660 ends to 5^ inches reed space Above 560 up to 640 ends to 5 J inches reed space. 10. Annures, with more than 109 picks per inch (fill- ing faced) ; — - - - • - - - 11. Head-motion looms (with exception of those arti- cles under No. 15): Less than 400 ends to 5i inches With cheviot yam warp 400 ends and less than 480 ends to 5i inches reed space With cheviot yam warp - 480 ends and less than 600 ends to 5 J inches reed Posi- tion No. space 600 ends and less than 720 ends to 5J inches reed space 720 ends and inclusive 800 ends to 5| Inches reed space . Above 800 ends to 5 J inches reed space. LOCAL GROtJP I. 12. 13. Plain Jacquard with less than 480 ends per 5| inches reed space With cheviot yam warp - . 480 ends and less than 5(i0 ends to 5i inches reed space -■•- • 560 ends and more to 51 inches reed space Jacquard 1 and 1 worsted with sillv or chappe imi- tation up to 480 ends to 5i inches ret>d space. . Above 480 ends to 5^ inches reed space 14o. Jacquard landl worsted or cotton with mohair, camel hair, luster, or weft (with exception of so-called staple half- wool luster): Light weave - - - - • - ■ Musselin ground with 400 ends to 5i inches reed space inclusive Double motion, 1 pick Above 400 ends to 5J hiohes reed space Double motion, I pick 14&, 15a. LOCAL GROUP in. Half wool luster: Up to 400 ends to 5| inches reed space More than 400 ends to 5i inches reed space All mohair, camel hair, luster or weft, bead motion looms; Up to 320 ends to 5i inches reed space More than 320 ends up to 400 ends to 5J Inches reed space Double motion, 1 pick Above 400 ends to 5J inches reed space Double motion, 1 pick Local Group III. 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 Goods of more than 39i inches reed space. Single. Marks. 3.65 3.00 3.75 4.70 4.35 4.85 6.95 5.90 3.10 3.55 3.65 3.86 2.70 3.05 3.15 3.25 3.40 3. 35 3.75 4.05 4.55 3.45 3.55 8.65 3.86 3.90 3.90 4.10 4.70 6.40 5.05 6.70 4.45 4.80 Twist. Marks. 3.65 3.00 4.70 4.35 6.90 6.86 2.90 3.25 3.45 3.65 160 3.06 3.15 Goods of more than 36^ inches up to 39i inches reed space. Single. 3.25 3.55 3.85 4.36 3.36 3.60 3.76 3.90 3.90 4.10 4.70 6.40 5.05 6.70 4.45 4.80 3.60 4.16 5.75 4.45 6.35 J/ar?.-». 3.80 3.25 4.06 5.05 4.70 5.20 7.45 6.35 3.36 3.80 3.95 4.15 2.90 3.30 3.40 3.60 3.65 3.60 4.05 4.35 4.90 8.70 3.80 3.95 4.15 4.20 4.20 4.40 5.05 6.90 5.45 7.20 4.80 6.15 Twist. Marks 3.80 3.25 6.05 4.70 7.40 6.30 3.10 3.60 3.70 3.80 2.80 3.30 3.40 Goods of 35| inches and less reed space. 3.60 3.80 4.16 4.70 3.60 3.86 4.05 4.20 4.20 4.40 5.05 6.90 6.45 7.20 4.80 6.15 3.85 4.45 G.20 4.80 6.85 Single. Twist. Marks. 3.90 3.30 4.15 6.15 4.80 5.35 7.65 6,50 3.40 3.90 4.00 4.25 2.05 3.36 3.46 3.60 3.75 3.70 4.15 4.45 6.00 3.80 3.90 4.00 4.25 4.30 4.30 4.50 6.15 7.05 6.66 7.36 4.90 6.30 Marks. 3.90 3.30 5.15 4.80 7.60 6.45 3.20 3.60 3.80 3.90 2.85 3.35 3.45 3.60 3.90 4.25 4.80 3.70 3.95 4.15 4.30 4.30 4.50 5.15 7.05 5.55 7.35 4.90 5.30 3.95 4.55 6.30 4.90 6.96 I » • J Table 15. — Minimum wage schedule for woolen raw goods in force for mills of the U7iited Sachsische-Turingischer weaving mills from August 6, 1911 — Continued. LOCAL GROUP H. 16. All mohair, camel hair, luster or weft on jacquard: Up to 320 ends, inclusive, to 5i inches reed space Up to 400 ends, inclusive, to 5| inches reed space Double motion, 1 pick * Above 400 ends to 5J Inches reed space Double motion, 1 pick 17o. Indian worsted— Yam shales with warp fringes (with filling border) above 493^ inches reed space. 176. Indian cheviot shales with warp fringes (%vith filling border) LOCAL GROtJPS H AND m. With colored borders (inclusive filling border) 18. Ripse with double motion, 1 pick: 18o. With single filling 186. With double and triple spooled filling— 22i (English worsted No.) 22|-18 ( English worsted No.) 18-13 J (English worsted No.) Below 13 J ( English worsted No.) 19. Ladies' cloth (worsted warp with woolen filling) Kaschmier weave Atlas less than 480 ends to hh inches reed space. Atlas 480 ends and more than 500 ends to 5i inches reed space Local Group III. Posi- tion No. 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 Goods of more than 39J inches reed space. Single. Marks. L85 2.05 2.20 4.70 2.80 3.15 3.35 Twist. Marks. 4.05 4.65 6.55 5.15 7.05 L80 L95 2.45 4.45 5.25 5.75 6.75 8.25 2.70 3.00 3.25 Goods of more than 35J Inches up to 39J inches reed space. Single. Marks. 5.05 3.00 3.40 3.60 Twist Marks. 4.35 5.00 7.05 5.55 7.60 4.80 5.65 6.20 7.25 8.85 2.90 3.25 3.50 Goods of 35^ inches and less reed space. Smgle. Twist Marks. 5.15 3.10 3.45 3.70 Marks. 4.45 5.10 7.20 5.65 7.75 4.90 5.75 6.30 7.40 9.05 2.95 3.30 3.60 For goods of vlgoureux and colored warp material wages increase, as per following: All grades up to 400 ends to 5J-lnch reed space 25 pfennig per 109.361 yards filUng length; all grades with more then 400 ends to 6J-inch reed space 50 pfennig per 109.361 yards filling length. This wage schedule Is made out for "100 zahlen" of 1,000 meters of filling yam each, or 109,361 yards of woven fiiUng length. SLOW LOOM BONUS WORK. t On the particularly slow looms, i. e., those under 70 picks per minute, women weavers are usually employed, and though the weav- ing rate per yard of cloth in the raw is tlio same, a premium or bonus is paici to the women, bringing their earnings up materially — young women, or, more properly, girls who are just beginning to weave but are not efficient enough to be put on regular work, old women, or women weavers who for any reason are satisfied to accept work on the old looms. It is said that some of the looms given to women weavers in and around Forst are 48-pick looms. Frequently, again, the women are paid a flat day rate on these slow looms, with a bonus on production. The result of this method of working is shown in the table below. It must be admitted that these women get a remarkable production in a week out of the looms. The following table shows the result of a week's work for 18 women, working for a flat day rate on these old looms, with a bonus or premium on the amount of output produced. 750 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The yarn counts in the table are given by the international system of numbering, wliicli is by the thousand meters of yarn required to weigh 1 kilo; that is to say, No. 1 yarn weighs 1 kilo to 1,000 meters; No. 2 yam requires 2,000 meters to weigh a kilo, etc. The flat rate and premium are given in marks, the total pay per week in United States money, and from this and the cloth analysis shown, the rate per 1,000 picks actually paid is shown. This shows that the manufac- turer, by means of a bonus system, gets his work done on these slow looms at just about the same price per 1,000 picks, hence per yard, as he pays on other looms. In other words, by means of the flat day rate and a bonus he is able to use his out-of-date looms to an advan- tage, which makes him indifferent to any proposition to discard them for speedier ones. By placing the flat day rate so low (about 37 J cents per day) he puts all the emphasis on the bonus or premium, which, it will be seen, is very high compared to the day rate. It is not only a masterly speeding-up scheme, but it keeps women on the looms, whereas the newer, higher type machines would probably be operated for the most part by men. 4. 1 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 751 • That is to say, if on a 100-pick loom the weaver actually produces 50 picks in a minute, the loss is 40 picks, and the actual production is 60 per cent of the theoretical efficiency. Not all of the cards gave the full data to enable us to bring out this point, but enough did so to enable the reader to get a fairly good idea of the general efficiency of German weavers. , . , , , . ^. „ « Samples of tlie raw weave as described in the table m practically every case are in the possession of the board. Name of the cloth. Flannel twill for coating Mai ton (flanuel lining) . Do Military troiwering Women's worsted cloth Twill Do Twill (marine jerkin j. . . Miners' shirtinj^ Atlas for coating Serge Do Do Do Laiiia cloaking Striped lama cloakinp;. . Lama cloaking (lining). Do 3 .a ft m i GO 60 60 60 60 58 58 CO 57 56 61 62 60 60 60 60 61 61 5 o C2. 70. 70. 55. m. 70. G2. 51. 55. 57. 55. 55. 6y. 63. 70. 60. d ft as !z; ft a 2,700 2.320 2,300 2,4S0 3.440 3,360 2,7eo 2.640 2,480 2,680 3,040 3,020 3,020 3,020 2,320 2,320 2.600 2,500 10| 5 6 13 103 10 9 14 11 loi 12J 12J 12 9 9 8} 9i a a .3 u a. 33 28 36 48 38 38 41 33 36 51 43 48 48 33 30 23 38 139.98 156.38 156.38 136.70 113.70 118.10 118.10 153,10 117.00 122.48 118.11 117.02 126.86 131.23 139.98 131.23 131.23 153. 10 J8 Marks. 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.08 1.08 1,25 1.08 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 Marks. 3.10 4.35 4.35 4.00 2.C0 2.12 2.50 3.40 3.20 3.00 3.30 4.00 4.05 3.87 3.60 3.20 3. CO 4.30 •2 •a || eS -^^ 3 o $2.53 2.82 2. 82 2.74 2.40 2.05 Mm X4t 2.59 2.30 2.50 2.57 2.74 2.75 2.71 2.64 2.55 2.64 2.81 Rate per 1,000 picks of filling yam. . 5.55 7.63 7.63 6.67 6.1 6.31 5.5 4.8 6.96 6.7 S.0 6.3 5.24 4.99 6.67 7.43 8.4 6.6 a . ■si ■a I 10.0132 .0181 .0181 .015« .0121 .0128 .0133 .oiia .0163 .0159 .0119 .0150 .0125 .0119 .0159 .01-77 .02 .0133 By reference to Table 16 further study of German weavers' earn- ings and efficiency may be made. That table presents the work of individual weavers on specific cloths described in the table. For the most part small samples of the weaves described are in possession of the Tariff Board; the relation of wages to output on specific weaves is there brought out. Supplementing the foregoing tabulation of German weavers' wage scales, a number of efficiency tests were secured on specifically described ftibrics, the output of weavers was ascertained, together with the rate of pay per yard and earnings per hour on that specific fabric, and in many cases the speed of the loom and the percentage of loss between the actual and the theoretical production. 752 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 753 Table 16. — Description of loom, hours, rates and eaminga of weavers, descriptwn of cloth District. Gera Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.- Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. 1)0.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do-. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Card No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 40 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 67 m m 60 61 62 63 64 65 Num- ber of looms at- tended. 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 2 Looms. • Hours, rates, and eaminp. Single or double beam work. Num- ber of shut- tles. Num- ber of harness. Picks per minute. Hours worked. Piece price per yard. Earnings per hour. 1 8 95 10.0353 $0.0904 1 6 110 .0386 .1247 1 6 110 .0341 .1332 1 4 110 .0328 .1290 1 4 110 28.5 .0234 .0975 1 8 95 .0658 .0952 1 4 no <••••■ -mm* .01(56 .0952 1 8 110 28.0 .0279 .1133 1 4 108 25.0 .0279 .1361 1 8 110 .0286 .1209 1 8 115 .0277 .0871 1 4 120 20.0 .0342 .1114 1 6 110 .0251 .1276 1 6 120 32.0 .0288 .1081 1 4 120 .0253 .1200 1 3 4 4 115 90 .0255 .0610 .0990 .1428 2 4 98 32.0 .0467 .1609 3 16 110 .0406 .1299 3 4 90 .0489 .1314 3 12 90 52.0 .0591 .1380 2 8 90 .osas .1170 3 8 115 .0403 .1656 3 4 85 .0334 .0923 2 5 90 .0367 .1671 %^ 5 110 .0312 .1428 2 2 8 90 .0416 .1452 3 2 10 90 .0523 .1752 2 1 16 110 .0367 .1176 2 1 10 no .0534 .1523 1 1 13 no .0442 .1161 1 1 13 120 .0420 .1081 2 1 18 95 .0519 .1247 1 1 18 110 .0438 .1332 2 1 8-12 120 .0469 .1760 1 1 110 .0655 .1428 3 2 110 .0326 .1175 1 2 4 90 .0284 .1675 2 2 4 $5 .0343 . 1518 2 2 4 90 .0393 .1375 1 3 4 90 .0403 .1347 2 2 4 90 .0460 1623 3 . 6 115 .0346 .0985 • 5 120 .0296 .1104 3 6 130 30 .0221 .0976 4 120 .0211 .1057 4 115 .0365 .1219 4 120 20 .0288 .1104 4 120 .0213 .0876 4 115 .0287 .1138 4 120 .0281 .0928 4 110 .0333 .1047 4 115 .0301 .1081 3 120 .0568 .0795 10 115 .0351 .1057 13 110 .0445 .1428 13 110 .0209 .0714 13 110 .0332 .1138 10 120 .0432 .1176 12 120 .0398 .1009 12 110 35.35 .0308 .1000 18 115 .0519 .1147 8 120 .0383 .1271 8 115 .0256 .1057 woven, and ejficiency of looms in woolen and worsted mills in specified districts in Germany. ■i Picks per inch. 74 79 77 05 44 74 38 67 58 69 CI 71 GO 74 59 73 75 58 09 66 75 76 68 51 33 38 43 53 65 76 109 86 72 74 58 60 24 32 35 64 60 86 82 71 56 81 71 73 71 84 81 65 229 89 77 58 75 103 109 71 121 71 65 Description of cloth woven. Width in inches. 68.0 65.7 63.8 59.4 61.0 67.9 56.7 59.4 69.4 59.4 64.9 68.9 60.2 60.2 63.6 65.9 53.5 61.4 45.3 55.9 55.5 54.7 64.1 59.8 63.4 64. C 51.3 55.9 65.9 64.4 61.4 45.7 69.7 69.7 68.3 41.9 43.5 29.2 62.7 59.4 45.3 59.1 69.1 54.7 65.5 50. 8 57.4 59.2 55.7 55.9 57.4 55.1 52.9 57.4 46-1 67.7 38.2 55.3 45.3 45.2 53.5 45.2 59.8 55.2 Num- ber of ends. 7,520 5,100 5,0u0 3,980 7.520 2,900 31620 2,400 4,045 3,320 4,480 3,900 5,200 3,816 4,120 4,080 4,400 3,280 4,000 4,830 4,320 3,760 2,800 2,380 4,400 6,080 6,800 7,660 6,200 4,860 9,960 10,580 9,240 6,540 2,860 1,380 2.440 2.900 3,128 4,340 4,720 4,310 3,100 5,614 4,480 4,200 4,800 5,080 6,060 2,948 6.640 9,700 C,000 5,160 5,360 5,080 5,200 5,912 4,400 Warp. Ply and count. 2-70 2-40 2-64.5 2-70 1-12 2-70 1-20 2-48 2-40 2-56a 2-40 2-52 2-36 2-80 2-40 1-42 2-70 2-70 ri-42 \2-90 2-70 2-70 2-70 2-40 11-12 r2-32 \2-24 2-70 /2-70 \2-60 2-70 2-52 2-70 2-78 2-78 i2-m \l-39 /2-78 tl-39 12-80 \2-84 2-106 2-84 2-24 /2-20 \2-24 2-36 2-80 2^2 2-64 2-78 2-78 1-14 2-40 /2-78.S \2-200 2—52 J 1-42 \2-80 ;2-70 \2-70 2-78 ^70 1-42 2-40 2-86 2-78 2-200 /2-78 12-40 2-96 2-78 2-70 2-86 2-64 2-64 Quality. Filling. Ply and count. Quality. Vigognia. Worsted. do... Vigognia. Worsted. Vigognia. Worsted do do ....do do Cotton Worsted and cotton. . Worsted Imitation Vigognia ....do Vigognia and cotton . Vigognia. Vigognia and worsted Worsted Carded Worsted Vigopia Cotton Vigognia and silk im- itation. Worsted , Vigognia , Worsted do Left-twist worsted. . Left worsted. Cotton Silk... Voile.. Moline. Vigognia do AVorsted Worsted and imita- tion. Worsted Moline Twist Worsted Silk Worsted Imitation 2-60 1-20 1-33 1-35 1-12 2-60 12 m.m. 2-48 1-20 12-8 1-20 1-26 1-18 20 m.m. 1-20 1-36 1-35 2-70 1-42 2-96 2-70 1-35 1-40 1-20 1-18 1-12 11 m.m. 7 m.m. 18 m.m. 2-60 1-40 1-26 1-52 1-42 1-26 2-40 1-64 1-100 1-9 2-20 2-24 2-40 1-28 2-80 1-45 1-28 1-28 1-24 1-35 1-26 1-36 Vigognia. Moline... Worsted. ....do... ....do... Cotton . . . Worsted. do... Silk Worsted. Cotton . . . Worsted. ....do... Vigognia. Worsted. Molinos.. Worsted. 1-40 1-60 1-40 1-40 1-84 1-78 1-33 1-78 1-33 1-78 1-60 1-41 1-84 2-64 1-34 Cotton.. Worsted. do... Vigognia Worsted Cotton Carded wool. Worsted do do do ....do Cotton Carded Worsted do Production. Yards made. Vigognia do do Cotton Vigognia do Vigognia and worsted Worsted do Carded Carded- ....do.. Carded. Silk imitation. Vigognia Worsted do .....do Worsted . Cotton.. Voile.., Silk.... Napp6. Vigognia. . Imitation. Worsted.. do.... ....do. Twist. Worsted. Worsted . do... Vigognia. Worsted , Cheviot. Worsted . do... do... do-. do... do. .. Worsted . ....do... Vigognia. Worsted . ....do... ....do... 30 61 60 64 61 89 39 63 60 63 55 44 38 62 01 61 61 61 68 57 "m *68' 96 62 63 30 38 63 39 58 66 62 33 41 61 66 54 Per cent of loss. 40 30 30 30 50 GO 40 25 20 20 20 25 25 30 30 25 40 40 40 40 40 35 30 50 50 50 50 40 40 40 30 30 35 40 30 30 40 60 50 50 40 40 30 25 25 30 30 30 25 30 30 30 40 20 30 30 45 30 30 30 40 30 40 30 f 754 KEPOET OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHKDULE K. Table 10. — D^aripiion of loom, hours, rotoi and eaamm§s of wmmr% descripiion of Germany — Bifttrlet. Card No. Otra... Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Roicfaenbach. m 67 68 69 7*J 71 72 7Z 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 87 89 90 91 92 93 94 05 9f. 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 Do I 104 Cilmraitsebau 105 Do I 100 Do.. Do... Do.. Do... Do... Do... Do... Do. . . Do... jya... Do... Do... Do. . . Do... Do... Do... Do. . . Do.. Do... Do.. Do... Do... Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do- Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Kirchberg Cottbus /. Do Do Do ■Roaswein (Sachaan) Lynberg Do....: 107 108 109 no 111 112 lU IM 115 110 117 118 119 120 121 122 121 125 rx 127 128 129 130 131 132 I3i 135 Looms. Num- ber of looms at- tended 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1-2 2-1 2-1 2 2 2 2 2 Single or dknible wOTk. Num- ber of shut- tles. 1 5 3 14 33 25 35 85 35-40 2a-25 20-22 48-60 20 25 15 25-30 40 Piece pcfcepcr yard. 30 la $0.0317 .0249 .0208 .0210 .0194 .0271 .0754 .0281 .0419 .0119 .0234 .0193 .0129 .0142 .0115 .0195 .0200 .0486 .01 iS .0141 .0117 .0207 .0194 .0124 .0198 .0195 .0545 .1010 .0638 .0217 .0300 .0179 .0132 .0208 .0178 .0341 .0109 .0720 .0886 .0811 .0887 Eamlngi IKsr hour. 10.1071 .0781 .0776 .0002 .1038 .0981 .0919 .0904 .0970 .0719 .0856 .1071 .0890 .0&{8 .1261 .0904 .0C)19 .i;:x)0 .(»()4 .1584 .OfiSf) .0088 .0878 .0912 .0952 .0918 . 0872 .0650 .0887 .0660 .0052 .0517 .1060 .0854 ,0654 .0616 .0736 .0822 .0530 .0012 REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI^ K. 755 cloth vwveUf arid ejjfudenqf of looms in. vx>ol€n and -worsted nulls in, specif^ districts in Continued. Description of cloth woven. Picks per inch. 75 71 64 58 65 65 227 68 60 33 60 40 41 62 60 88 41 S8 32 43 fiS 47 37 25 56 38 64 45 43 64 43 90 23 48 47 37 49 Bl 29 Width in inches. 62 86 60 86 62 86 49 60 47 63 41 64 61 61 85 58 68 t7 73 38 61 29 47 • 71 61 £0 27 58 58 55.7 45.2 44.1 43.1 54.7 54.7 53.9 61.3 50.7 59.4 45.2 34.2 53.1 58.6 6a3 82.7 54.0 57.5 sas 61.0 64.7 66.9 20.5 58.3 68.8 37.2 57.4 62.1 55.1 35.7 52.4 66.9 61.9 62.9 61.9 63.8 64.9 66.9 68.9 72.4 59.1 72.1 66.9 66.9 70.9 70.9 75.9 66.9 63.0 47.2 33.1 48.4 86.6 68.8 66.7 65-7 6a7 106.2 66.7 66.7 Num- ber of ends. 4,400 3,600 3,560 3,290 3,770 3,720 4,040 3,450 3,720 3,600 3,620 3,010 1,560 2,840 2,400 Warp. Ply and count 1.040 2,480 3,150 3,070 1,940 2,240 2.000 2, ICO 4,800 1,000 2,430 3,000 3.280 1,670 1,350 3,360 2,350 3,560 2,280 1,668 7.300 0,000 7,000 3,872 7,000 6,400 5.800 3.000 6,200 3, COO 0,300 3,480 5,580 6,900 6,912 3,700 5,760 6,440 2,880 4,500 3,730 0,912 1,320 3,560 5,900 7,600 7,500 2,700 5,200 5,200 2-78 1-42 1-42 2-70 2-78 2-70 2-64 2-70 2-70 1-26 2-70 2-GO 2-40 2-44 1-45 / 1-49 \ 2-110 24-2 23r Quality. Filling. Ply and count. Quality. Worsted Worsted left twist. do Vigognia '"/.dQV"/^l'.'.'.''.'. Worsted Vig(Knia. Cheviot... 20 18-11 46 42 18 2-78 28 18-11 20 11 11 8m.m. 49 2-18 2-40 2-78 2-80 8m.m. 2-54 { 2-48 2-80 lO-s 2-54 2-52 2-54 9'S 6-48 48's 2-36 80 Vigognia Cotton Mohair Cheviot Worsted angora. Worsted Artificial silk... Cheviot Worsted. Carded . . Worsted. do... Carded . . Cotton... Worsted. Carded . . Cotton... Carded . ^Selvage, crossbred. . . Worsted. Cheviot.. Carded . . Worsted. do... Cotton... Carded . . ....do... Worsted, -...do... Cotton... Carded . . Worsted. 20 11 11 in. m. 20 Worsted. do.., do... VigMuia. ""do'.'.'. Worsted . Vigoenia. do... Vigognia C-otton -do. Carded Woolen card . Worsted . . . . , Carded Worsted . Carded Worsted Carded do , Cotton, wool . Carded. , do Worsted . . . . . Production. Yards made. 62 I CO 56 Carded... 18 18 65 im. m. 2-54 2-54 2-54 15 48 2/64 2/40 2/40 18 3/40 2/<8 15 2/52 2/52 2/52 8i 2/44 Piece dyed. Worsted Worsted. 1-30 13's 1-27 2-52 200-36 9 9'S 6-48 13'S 2-48 17 Worsted. Worsted. Thread.. Worsted Worsted. Cotton and zephyr. 2-48 15 2/48 1/26 12 20 12 2/48 Carded. Crossbred Vigognia Carded Worsted Carded Carded, lined. Carded Lining Carded ■Worsted. Worsted. Carded.. Worsted. Wool.... l^ Carded. 18 2/52 2/52 2/52 8 23 2/44 Worsted. Worsted. do... Carded. . Carded Worsted and woolen. Worsted. Silk thread. Cheviot."!! 57 C5 132 45 57 118 55 49 66 49 52 G6 55 57 56 56 56 56 117 49 37 31 47 99 33 44 44 62 62 62 45 C^ 44 55 5G 56 49 44 44 44 33 44 36 4 33 4 44 28 55 49 49 49 44 49 49 Per cent of loss. 30 40 40 40 40 40 25 40 40 50 35 40 30 40 40 40 30 20 766 BEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOAKD OK SCHEDULE K. Table 16. — Description of loom, Jumrs, rates and earnings of weavers j description of Germany— District. Lynbcrg Do Greiz Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do )o )o Do Do Do Do Do Do I>o Frieschwitz-Aubachtal Greiz Do Do Do Frieschwitz-Aubachtal Greiz Mtilhausen Do Do Do Gera Do b: Do. Griinberg Do Osterode Do Crimmitschaii. Do Do Do. Do. C3ard No. Looms. Hours, rates, and earnings. 136 137 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 196 198 199 200 201 Do ;.. 202 Do 204 Do 205 Do 208 Do 210 Do 214 Do 215 Do 216 Mylau 218 Do 219 Do 220 Do 221 Bautzener (Sachsen) 222 Do 223 Do 224 Do 225 Do 226 Ebersbach bei GSppingen . ! 229 Lynberg ! 230 Greiz i 217 Num- ber of looms at- tended. Single or double beam work. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 » 1 i 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1-2 Num- ber of shut- tles. 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 2 2 2 2 1 I 4 2 2 2 fi 6 3 3 3 3 1 3 3 2 2 4 Num- ber of harness. 6 4 4 10 6 2 . 8 12 4 18 6 4 i S 4 18 6 6 7 6 3 9 5 9 26 3 6 13 8 5 5 fi 8 13 4 10 4 4 6 4 8 8 14 4 9 Picks per minute. 12 18 18 4-8 18 18 16 16 24 20 16 12 4 3 4 4 8 18 24 8 16 8 12 3 .1 2 aboYe, 2 below. Hours worked, 72 84 100 115 115 115 115 118 116 106 105 120 120 128 123 110 110 110 116 116 135 117 130 110 110 134 120 108 120 125 112 112 114 120 112 im KJO so 80 65 64 68 58 70 70 80 72 76 85 80 76 80 120 120 120 120 76 90 80 85 82 60 87 120 16 32 40 100 56 75 56 37 56 30 50 54 23 50 50 68 50 35 30 58 78 90 45 30 50 70 58 70 56 35 58 80 52 58 45 24 25-30 35 30 42 28 42 28 Piece price per yard. Earnings per hour. SO. 0204 .0325 .a302 .0460 .0208 .0180 .0282 .0191 .0169 .0123 .0191 .0196 .0121 .0207 .0244 .0206 .0419 .0269 .0195 .0256 .0279 .0120 .0163 .0316 .0185 .0659 .0170 .0379 .0550 .0278 .0185 .0404 .0322 .0584 .0449 .0185 .0147 .0117 .0104 .0104 .0155 .0413 .0195- .0238 .0352 .0435 .0544 .0783 .0506 .0671 .0872 .0872 .0573 .0651 .0658 .0668 .0097 .0430 .0259 .0097 .0607 .0595 .0679 .0627 .0627 .0371 .0510 .0391 SO. 062,1 .OG(J<> .1088 .lOGft .0884 .0580 .1270 .1210 .0736 .0470 .0894 .0828 .0706 .0942 .1132 .0714 .1Q24 .09.38 .0794 .1026 .0842 .0616 .0820 .0822 .0856 .1150 .0726 .1244 .1138 .0986 .0770 .1130 .1450 .1148 .1200 .0892 .1009- .0841 .1006 .1095 .0907 .1122 .0997 .0572 .0666 .0762 .0762 .0892 .0666 i» L*i List i ca j L a bo ra tc r , ' BBPOBT OF TAEIPT BOARD ON SCHEDTTI^ ^•C<>lun,''blfti[vlrsit, doth wovenj and efficiency of looms in woolen and worsted mills in specified mtHSiHts ^rfe Continued. / \ Description of cloth woven. Picks per inch. } 25 41 65 130 77 66 28 52 61 41 54 68 54 65 71 81 76 62 56 69 90 127 56 99 54 118 49 60 108 83 58 97 77 135 97 6) 53 53 69 48 15 53 21 61 51 58 46 63 60 60 71 41 58 60 61 64 132 68 62 68 48 201 55 49 61 56 61 61 61 36 53 188 Width in inches. 56.0 68.8 66.7 49.5 46.3 36.1 45.2 37.4 35.4 52.0 36,0 43.7 38.9 44.4 43.7 39.6 68.8 66.8 58.8 43.6 53.9 37.8 35.5 42.7 40.3 63.3 63.8 44.4 60.2 61.4 42.5 45.2 45.2 61. 62. 53. 33. 33.4 29.4 33.4 58.6 49.2 59.1 52.7 60.9 66.8 92.4 62.9 66.7 66.7 80.7 68.8 66.7 68.8 62.9 70.8 66.9 66.9 70.8 36.5 50.3 47.1 50.3 66.9 68.4 72.7 66.9 70.8 62.9 66.9 45.2 Num- ber of ends. 1,620 2,500 4,936 3,980 3,520 Warp. Ply and count. Quality. Filling. 1,620 1,600 4,100 1,960 4,440 4,400 2,560 8,920 4,440 3,580 5,080 2,040 3,200 4,520 2,320 2,574 14,880 6,070 5,340 4,000 6,500 6,600 6,280 6,280 3,920 2,020 2,230 2,230 3,230 ' 900- .1,200 2,508 2,600 2,930 3,825 3,200 3,750 5,400 6,400 3,800 3,400 3,800 3,800 5,600 6,500 7,200 5,200 5,600 2,240 4,030 3,720 2,700 4,080 7,680 8,000 4,080 8,000 2,200 3,900 2,700 42 49 2/78 49/2/75 2/80 2/40 46 2/24 2/96 2/40 78 2/78 46 64 2/40 1/16 2/86 2/78 49 46 2/86 2/40 2/78 1/49 650 2/78 78 46 2/96 2/96 2/78 78 (») Worsted, cotton. Cotton Left twist Thread. C.I.... Voile... Luster. English. Luster. . Thread - Ply and count. 24 20 50 4/20 }■ Worsted. Worsted. do... Cheviot.. Worsted. Thread.. Yam.... Thread English luster. Worsted Silk.... Thread'. 3a. Thread. Woolen Cotton do Hard twist. Thread 20 (») 11 12 200/100 2/72 20 3/52 2/52 2/52 2/52 2/52 49 Wool Thread Camel's hair. 32 86 32 52 2/80 32 52 1/18 33 40 25 42 48 78 30 B/24 18 40 48 78 52 78 40 40 17J 2/70 "A 40 70 49 33 32 33 Quahty. Worsted . ....do... Carded... Voile. Cotton . . English. Worsted. ....do... 24 27 50 4/20 110/65 2/40 23 and 38 Lowen carded upper worsted. Worsted , Half wool Worsted do Carded Worsted and thread. Worsted , .do Worsted and carded. Worsted Silk Thread Cheviot Thread Mixed thread. Worsted Twisted yam Cotton Cheviot. Worsted. Carded.. Voile.... B.I. aB. Woolen Wool .....do Hard twist. Shoddy.... (9148 and 9158). Cotton Carded wool... Camel's hair... Carded. Production. Yards made. 96/3 49 24 2/52 2/52 2/52 2/52 2/52 1/18 86 Worsted Half wool Worsted Carded do Worsted Carded ....do Worsted Worsted and carded , Silk. Cheviot. Worsted. Worsted do Worsted wool. Cheviot 49 66 72 116 119 121 126 116 122 58 117 114 73 114 116 118 61 61 61 116 117 115 113 39 116 61 124 115 58 62 121 112 117 57 60 58 110 110 110 110 62 49 55 49 70 35 30 40 44 123 63 72 159 51 52 49 49 48-50 50 49 118 « 32/371. 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2- >8/2m. m. Per cent of loss. ...•\. 25 20 30 80 20 -10 758 BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUL.E K. la several cases the cards returned were from weavers working on slow looms, usually girls or older women whose efficiency was not up to the standard. These weavers were paid a minimum wage for a week of 58 hours and a bonus based on the number of yards produced. All worked on single looms. Card number. Loom. Earnings. Desorlptioo of doth. Number District. Picks per minute. Per yard. Per hour. Picks per inch. Number of ends. ol yarda produced. Eschwege 187 188 189 190 191 193 193 194 101 60 67 63 61 60 60 60 i0.0168 .0161 .0336 .0318 .0200 .0180 .0193 .0189 .0168 10.0447 .0322 .0172 .0443 .0472 .0486 .0439 .0455 .0368 41 36 43 51 36 as 29 43 154 Do.. 2,480 3,020 3,040 2,480 2,320 2,300 2,600 2,760 116 116 118 137 157 132 140 127 Do Do Do Do Do Do Do 58 The actual earnings of weavers at these piece rates would not be so divergent as the rates themselves, for the reasons, already stated, that the lower rates are for two-loom work and on fabrics that permit of large outpuii. On actual earnings for weavers a mass of data were secured which it has been impossible to tabulate or present from lack of time to prepare it. Some idea of eammgs may be gleaned, however, from the following transcript of the weavers' pay roll for July, 1911, of an establishment producmg the finer grades of cloth imported from Ger- many. The table shows the hours worked and total pay and rate of earnmgs perhour for eachindividual weaver in the plant. These weavers were all men. The average for all was 10.2 cents per hour. They worked 10 hours a day. The establishment has both one-loom and two-loom rates on the same cloths, has two-loom and one-loom work, and operates slow and fast looms, using all weavers indiscriminately upon all these types of work. A more significant pay roll could not have been selected in Germany. Table 17.— Hours, earnings perhour, OTid total earnings o/weavers andforemen of weavers. Houia. Earnings perhour. ■wgrm AWWUM W Mt:A V Ju JDmDI* 280 260 260 230 230 235 225 260 260 260 235 260 260 260 260 260 260 225 260 260 260 Total earnings. to. 1005 .1063 .0878 .0690 .1238 .1157 .1212 .1131 .1081 .1149 .1199 .1222 .1093 .1275 .1139 .1121 . 1229 .1067 .1145 .1084 .1205 126.13 28.16 22.84 13.57 28.48 27.18 27.27 29.41 28.11 30. 88 28.10 31.77 28.42 33.15 29.61 29.14 31.95 24.00 29.78 28.20 31.33 Hoim. Earnings, per hour. WXAVXRS— continued. 260. 225. 260. 280. 260. 260. 250. 260. 250. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 220. 30. 260. 130. 260. 10.0703 .0625 .0953 .1142 .0939 .1116 .1876 .1000 .0839 .0705 .1028 .1340 .0972 .1064 .0954 .1021 .0918 .0952 .0983 .0976 .0033 Total earnings. $18.28 18.57 24. T7 31.97 24.41 29.01 46.91 26.01 20.98 18.34 26.73 34.85 25.27 27.67 24.80 26.54 30.19 2.88 25.6S 12.01 24.23 i BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDX7LE K. 759 Table 17. — Hours, earnings per hour, and total earnings of weavers and foremen of weavers — Continued . Hours. Earnings perhour. WEAVERS— continued. 2C0. 195. 2C0. 2G0. 2G0. 140. 260. 260. 260. 200. 260. 280. 2C0. 320. 100. 195. 2G0. 260. 2G0. 220. 260. 250. 260. 200. 255. 260. 260. 240. 260. 140. 215. 200. 2G0. 260. 260. 200. 255. 260.. 255.. 200.. 200.. 260.. 260.. 260.. 260.. Total earnings. •0.0975 .0947 .1100 .1155 .0872 .1107 .1129 .1186 .1242 .0880 .0912 .1206 .0984 .1195 .1319 .0859 .0939 .0923 .0863 .0983 .0916 .1021 .0881 .0950 .0770 .0699 .0748 .0799 .0561 .0913 .0470 .0802 .0753 .0592 .1008 .1043 .1001 .1187 .1103 .0721 .0993 .0848 .1015 .0943 .1167 S25.34 18.46 28.60 30.02 22.67 15.49 29.36 30.84 32.30 22.89 23.72 33.78 25.59 38.25 13.19 16.76 24.43 24.00 22.43 21.63 23.81 25.52 22.91 24.70 19.64 18.17 19.46 19.17 14.58 12.79 10.12 20.84 19.59 15.40 26.22 27.11 25.54 30.85 28.12 18.75 25.81 22.04 26.38 24.51 30.35 Hours. WEAVERS— continued. 260. 260. 260. 260. 200. 260. 240. 260. 250. 260. 260. 250. 260. 135. 260. 160. 260. 120. 240. 200. 100. 70. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 60. 200., 2C0., 240.. 260.. 260.. 260.. Earnings, per hour. FOREMEN OF WEAVING. 10.0863 .1203 .1112 .1004 .1129 .1225 .0893 .1143 .1190 .0858 .1049 .1107 .1031 .0954 .1078 .1127 .1175 .1077 .0917 .0947 .1105 .1286 .1046 .1383 .1230 .1050 .1199 .1238 .0950 .1273 .1097 .0786 .0941 .0868 .1302 Total earnings. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 260. 200. $22.43 31.27 28.92 26.10 29.35 31.84 21.43 29.73 29.76 22.30 27.27 27.68 26.80 12.88 28.04 18.03 30.55 12.92 22.01 24.62 11.05 9.00 27.20 35.95 31.98 27.30 31.19 32.18 5.70 33.09 28.52 18.86 24.46 22.56 33.85 .1602 41.65 .1007 26.18 .1098 28.56 .0952 24.75 .0952 24.75 .0952 24.75 .0952 24.75 Supolementary to the above transcript of a monthly pay roll from a single firm, there is presented below in Table 18 a condensation of the wage books of 93 male weavers and 62 female weavers in Luckenwalde, Germany, once the center for men's black broadcloths, but now making mostly heavy overcoatings, the women weavers still operating looms on men's broadcloth or clay worsteds. These pass books were for the months of April, May, and June, 1911, and gave the total hours worked and wages received each week; these have been condensed and an average earning per hour derived. The total hours worked in the three months have been preserved as indicative of the steadiness of the employee; the age of flbe operative in each case was preserved. The selection was made solely on the basis of such employees m the town as had preserved their pass books regardless of the establishment in which they were employed or class of goods upon which they worked, except that they must be weavpra of woolen or worsted cloth. Luckenwalde is a one-loom town, and practically all of the looms are of the slower type; that is, under 90 picks per minute, wliich in Germany usually means 75 to 80 pick looms. These 93 male and 62 female weavers may be reasonably accepted as typical of the industry in that locality. 760 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 18. — Wages for weavers in the woolen and worsted industry at Lueienwaldef Ger^ many, during April, May, and June, 1911. Ajffeu HAL£ WSATliltS. 37.. 43.. 62.. 27.. S3.. 28.. 40.. 30.. 33.. 59.. 56.. 37.. 61.. 36.. 42.. 30.. 26.. 29.. 44.. 29.. 23.. 62.. 58.- 43.. 45.. 52.. 41.. 22.. 30.. 62.. 28.. 51.. 34.. 28.. 25.. 26.. 6Q.. 201. 201. 221. 30.- 37.. 27.. 55.. 40.. 33.. 24-. 45.. 30.. 61.. 41.- 20-. 43- 41.- 26.- 43.- 40.. 23.. 35.. 26-. 54.. 57.. 37.. 36.. 41.- 35.. 22.. 29.. 35.- 21.. 49.- 39.. 32.. 19.. 30.. 25.. 46.. 40.. Total liours worked. Total Bate per wages. hoar. S64.23 10.006 94.54 .127 74.64 .006 73.75 .106 78.41 .109 68.94 .103 81.89 .105 88.46 .13 76.83 .106 81.61 .11 68.03 .092 62.45 .064 72.67 .115 88.83 .122 93.11 .125 73.43 .095 81.96 .108 90.82 .114 60.29 .090 74.28 .102 93.91 .129 94.64 .127 68.83 .091 47.06 .060 72.61 .093 91.19 .118 80.28 .103 90.96 .125 94.00 .126 100.97 .132 63.28 , .085 102.22 .149 73.05 .106 79.6«i .106 86.28 .119 68.24 .092 73.81 .115 56.19 .080 68.06 .087 63.61 .061 5.00 .063 58.48 .077 79.84 .111 62.36 .060 46.84 .078 79.50 .102 67.30 .089 77.84 .103 62.06 .090 67.93 .092 50.08 .066 76.19 .104 67.78 .093 52.48 .068 63.15 .091 69.41 .095 74.18 .098 73.52 .095 81. .34 .108 73.96 .104 58.09 .075 53.55 .081 57.88 .081 84.28 .110 64.84 .090 78.87 .107 71.24 .099 76.11 .098 69.05 .100 79.% .116 70.10 .090 54.38 .070 80.19 .103 71.63 .096 53.49 .074 65.70 .104 59.02 .076 66.48 .086 67.54 .069 j9k..,^|C!* MALE "WEAVERa— ooatinued. 39 42 39 22 58 29 60 39 42 52 60 32 42 53 FEMALE WEAVEHS. 18 51 57 45. 22. 27. 40. 25. 23. 41. 22. 25. 25. 21. 44. 23. 22. 29. 36. 61. 40. 46. 24. 19. 18. 21. 21. 22- 22. 23. 23. 24. 24. 24. 25. 26. 28. 28. 30. 31. 31. 32. 32. 32. 33. 37. 39. 39. 42. 43. 43. 43. 43. 44. 46. 47. 48. 49. 51. 55. 57. Total hours. worked. 549 663f 66a; 721u 676; 626 620} 664 6741 7211 606 663 691 7214 655i 696 7211 666 6474 721| 486 476 647| 518| 457 653} 648 607f 721i 637 624 333 556! Total wages. t75.89 67.61 79. 00 56.66 52.14 68.31 76.16 72.12 77.87 64.12 44.64 71.41 73.30 45.92 53.54 41.89 46.31 49.06 65.38 57.79 30.21 47.93 62.82 49.47 52.49 38.85 48.16 40.75 50.38 49.39 48.15 57.25 52.51 45.93 50.30 57.32 57.17 61.42 63.73 57.57 44 06 43.15 45.30 43.10 45i64 4L07 5&14 2a 33 2&02 37.66 2a 83 2a 37 3a 67 3a 30 3a46 4L60 3&26 44 04 1&47 3Z55 42 32 37.24 4a 19 3a 41 4&65 37.72 4315 45.86 43 94 44 31 34 88 44 78 4d24 36 92 4&60 43.77 35.42 Rate per hour. 10.100 .067 .104 .061 .070 .088 .100 .095 .101 .087 .070 .095 .097 .067 .075 .078 .067 .075 .093 .082 .057 .064 .005 .075 .065 .051 .073 .075 .075 .075 .067 .086 .083 .072 .075 .085 .079 .115 .093 .083 .061 .066 .065 .060 .069 .063 .081 .058 .061 .058 .058 .064 .061 .061 .065 .058 .a57 .071 .049 .059 .060 .061 .058 .067 .069 .055 .062 .066 .068 .066 .061 .062 .065 .058 .064 .064 .070 » Sample weaver. ^^ Aveca^ hourly rate tor male weavers, t0.0977. Average hourly rate tor female weavers, 10.0694. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 761 So far, then, as concerns the actual earnings of German weavers, aside from the rate per yard, it is very clear that the average for men is between 9 and 11 cents per hour of actual time worked. While it is not uncommon for a weaver to earn $1.25 or $1.30, and while earnings of $1.50 or even $1.75 are not unknown in rare indi- vidual cases, yet 95 cents to $1.10 is the usual earnings per day for German male weavers and 70 cents to 80 cents for women. WOOLEN AND WORSTED WEAVERS* WAGE SCALES IN FRANCE. Of the French weaving data secured by the board, so much as could be made available m the limited time is here presented. Table 1^.— Woolen and worsted weavers^ rates on specified women's dress goods, Beauvois- Fontaine, France, under the two-loom system. Cloth. 1. "Sateen weave" of carded woolen yarn, undyed 2. Carded woolen "prunelle," undyed. 3. Woolen broadcloth "Sateen weave" of carded woolen yam, undyed. 4. 6. Plain weave "taffetas" with sillc warp and botany weft, undyed. . . 6. Armure weave of 2-piy carded woolen yam, dyed 7. Striped light cashmere 8. Light cashmere, imdyed yam 9. Light^striped cashmere, dyed yam. . 10. Light black and white checkered cashmere 11. Light striped cashmere, black and white yam 12. Light white cashmere 13. Light striped black and white cash- mere with " vigoureux " yarn i . . . 14. Light gray and white cashmere con- tainme 2-ply mercerized cotton. . . 15. Light striped woolen goods of 2 colors 16. Light striped cashmere, black and white Width. 45 53 61 48 43 60 65 44 45 48 49 50 65 47 43 65 Total warp ends. 3,600 2,760 3,800 3,850 3,860 6,310 5,475 4,260 3,660 4,060 4,500 4,260 4,174 3,160 4,030 6,475 Picks per inch. 45 50 56 45 67 112 72 82 69 76 79 70 62 61 68 69 Warp beams. Weavers* rate— Per 1,000 picks. Centimes. 4.8 6.0 6.0 fi.0 4.5 8.5 6.5 3.0 4.0 5.0 4.0 4.0 6.5 5.5 5.6 6.5 Per yard. SO. 0150 .0174 .0233 .0156 .0178 .0661 .0325 .0171 .0192 .0264 .0220 .0195 .0235 .0233 .0260 .0312 Weavers* daily earnings. SO. 9264 .8685 .9264 .8878 .7817 .7527 .7759 .9418 .6755 .7720 .7720 .6273 .8955 .7431 .7527 1 A twisted yam of 2 threads, one cotton and one woolen, of different colors. A scale of prices which commission weavers charge manufacturers was secured, together with the percentage of that rate which these middle men pay the actual weaver. That is to say, there are a nifm- ber of persons in France who own or rent a few looms; they take the yam from merchants or manufacturers and return to them the cloth woven in the raw. Since there are pubhc finishing and dyeing estab- lishments, this raw weave can be turned over to them for finishing. It thus happens that many so-called manufacturers of cloths own no machinery at all; they buy yarn as merchants, deliver it to commis- sion weavers, then deliver the raw weave to finishing estabUshments, and receive back the finished fabrics, which they sell. The process may even begin with the raw wool in the grease, as there are public scouring establishments and job spinning mills. The following scale, Table 20, then, is primarily a jobbers' scale. The rate per yard charged by the jobber is given on cloth of given picks, and to this is added a column showing the amount per yard paid the actual weaver. The rates are based on a one-loom system of work and are only a shade below the rates paid for such work in regular cloth-manufacturing establishments. 762 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 763 Table 20. — Scale established between the association of contract weavers of cloths and th§ textile trade union of Lavelanet, Ariege^ and environs, France {one-loom system). V f^ommlftsJofl or wmtrjwt. rain. Rate paid to actual weavers. Picks per centimeter. Picks per inch. Rate per "rang" (2.66 meters) in oentimes. Rate per yard Tin oente). 8 9 10 11 12 13 U W li 17 18 19 20 20.32 22.84 25.40 27.92 30.48 33.00 35.66 38.08 40.64 43.16 45.72 48.24 50.80 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 106 115 123 130 138 145 4.644 4.976 5.308 5.639 5.971 5.303 6.635 7.165 7.630 8.161 8.625 9.156 9.620 1.8576 1.9904 2.1232 2-2556 2.3884 2.1212 2.6540 2.8660 3.0520 3.2644 3.4500 3.6624 3.8480 1. Above 20 picks per centimeter (50.8 picks per inch) the rate is 5 centimes (0.965 cent) additional per pick per '^rang;" that is, 0.3317 cent additional per pick per yam. 2. Striped or checked goods woven with 2 shuttles "odd'* or "even," or with 3 shuttles ''even," up to 16 harnesses are subject to the above scale. 3. For goods woven with 3 shuttles "odd" and 4 shuttles "even" the rate is 5 centimes per "rang," or 0.3317 cent per yard, extra. 4. Goods with 4 shuttles "odd," 10 centimes per "rang," or 0.6634 cent per yard, extra. 5. Goods woven with 16 to 19 shafts, 5 centimes per "rang," or 0.3317 cent per yard, extra. 6. Goods woven with 20 to 24 shafts, 15 centimes per "rang," or 0.9951 cent per yard, extra. For woolen trouserings, pattern woven, and for trouserings of cot- ton warp and carded woolen filling, the rate per "rang" of the fabric is 5 centimes per pick per centimeter, as foUows: Commission or contract rate. Rate paid to actual weavers. Pick.s per oeutiiiieter. Picks per indi. Rate per "rang" (2.66 meters) (in centinifis). Rate per yard (in cents). 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 IS 19 20 21 22 U M 25 26 27 28 m 30 20.32 22.84 25.40 27.92 30.48 33.00 35.56 38.08 40.64 43.16 45.72 48.24 50.80 53.32 55.88 58.40 60.96 63.48 66.04 68.56 71.12 73.64 76.20 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 145 150 2.654 2.986 3.317 3.649 3.981 4.313 4.644 4.976 5.308 5.639 5.971 6.303 6.635 6.966 7.298 7.630 7.962 8.293 8.625 8.957 9.288 9.620 9.952 1.0616 1.1944 1.3268 1.4596 1.5924 1.7252 1.8576 1.9904 2.1232 2.2556 2.3884 2.5212 2.6540 2.7864 2.9192 3.0520 3.1848 3.3172 3.4500 3.5828 3. 7152 3.8480 3.9808 I I llil 1. When these goods contain imitation silk threads, the rate is 10 centimes (1.93 cents) higher per ''rang," or 0.64 cent per yard. For two-faced goods and goods woven of exceptionally delicate or easily breakable yarns the same extra rate is paid. 2. Fabrics that occasion very frequent stops of the loom shall be paid for at a daily rate of 3.50 francs (67.55 cents). 3. Operatives, who for lack of material are obliged to wait more than one day, shall receive an indemnity of 3 francs (57.9 cents) per day. 4. All pieces of goods that do not exceed 10 ''rangs" (26.6 meters, or 29 yards) shall be subject to the scale for sample weaving. 5. Tying-in shall be paid for by the owner of the looms at the rate of 30 centimes (5.79 cents) per 1,000 ends. Drawing-in (reedmg) : Up to 12 shafts, 15 centimes (2.895 cents) per 100 ends, including reed; 13 to 24 shafts, 17^ centimes (3.375 cents, per 10() ends, including reed. Drawing in of a single reed, 1 franc (19.3 cents). These drawing-in rates shall be paid to the operatives. The same scale applies to samples as for full pieces, with an addi- tional 20 centimes (3.86 cents) per "rang." Tying-in for samples, 50 centimes (9.65 cents) per 1,000 ends, pay- able to the operative. , * , . . The method of arriving at the weavers' rate on a given fabric m France is somewhat like that followed in the United States, except that the picks per quarter inch is used in France instead of picks per inch as with us. . The system of paj-mg by the 1,000 picks prevails in some districts, and the plan is gaining in popularitv. . i . , The following Tourcoing scale is, however, on the quarter-mch pick In the United States, wherever the "mills per pick per inch per yard" system is in vogue, the yardage rate would be ascertained as foUows: If the rate is 1.5 mills per pick inch and the yardage rate on a cloth woven 60 picks to the inch is required, multiply the rate in mills by the picks in an inch and the result is the rate per yard on the loom. If an estabUshment has a 1.5-mill rate, a 60-pick cloth would pay 9 cents a yard. In France the rate is in centimes per pick per quarter of a French inch, and the result is the weavers' rate per meter on the loom. The French inch is somewhat longer than our inch — i. e., our inch is 2.54 centimeters in the metric system; the French inch is 2.77. The following scale, then, is to be read in this manner: Take any men's worsted cloth that comes under the first category, multiply the number of picks in a quarter of a French inch by 0.75 centime, and the result is the price paid the weaver per meter of woven cloth: WEAVING RATES OF ESTABLISHMENT B (TOURCOING, FRANCE). [Picks per quarter-inch rates .J (French inch.) I. Two-loom system (80 to 100 picks per minute).— Ken's goods, worsted filling, undyed, 0.75 centime: men's goods, pattern woven, with 2-ply No. 11 carded woolen yam, dyed, 0.80 centime; women's dress goods, cashmere (2 by 2) weave, 0.70 cen- time; small patterned weave (annure) of fancy warp-rib character, 0.75 centime; "Pnmelle" (2 by 1 twill) with carded woolen filling, 0.75 centime; goods of mixed 764 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDXTIiB K. worsted filling, 0.77 centime (the above rates applv when 6 ehafta are iiaedj when 12 are used the rate is increased 0.02 centime, except lor No. 2); men's wear with No. 10 carded woolen filHng and not over 12 shafts, 0.83 centime; men's wear with No. 12 carded woolen filling, 0.77 centime. II. Two-loom system {over 100 picks j>er minute, usually 116 to iiO).— Men's goods, worsted filling, natural yam, 0.67 centime; men's goods, pattern woven, with 2-ply No. 11 carded woolen yam, dyed, 0.80 centime; women's dress goods, cashmere (2 by 2) weave, 0.62 centime; small patterned weave (armure) of fancy warp-rib char- acter, 0.67 centime; "Pmnelle" (2 by 1 twill), with carded woolen filling 0.67 cen- time; goods of mixed worsted filling, 0.69 centime (the above rates apply when 6 shafts are used; when 12 are used the rate is increased 0.02 centime, except for No. 21); men's wear with No. 10 carded woolen filling and not over 12 shafts, 0.83 centime; men's wear with No. 12 carded woolen filling, 0.69 centime. III. Goods woven on one Nuyt loom (up to 32 «^a/te).— Cashmere weave, undyed yam, 1 centime; small pattemed weave (armure) oi fancy warp rib character, 1.25 centimes; goods of No. 8 carded woolen yam, 1.25 centimes; goods of No. 7 carded woolen yam. 1.30 centimes; goods of No. 6 carded woolen yam, 1.35 centimes; goods of No. 5 caraed woolen yam, 1.40 centimes. IV. Goodi woven mth mixed yarns. ^—Cd^Btnnere weave, undyed yams, 1.25 centimes; *' armure '* weave (small pattemed weave of fancy warp-rib character), 1.35 centimes; goods of carded wool No. 8, 1.45 centimes; goods of carded wool No. 7, 1.55 centimes; centimes; goods of carded wool No. 7 (12 shafts), 1.55 centimes; goods of carded wool No. 5 (12 shafts), 1.62 centimes; goods of carded wool No. 4 (12 shafts), 1.66 centimes; goods of carded wool No. 3 (12 shafts), 1.70 centimes; "Pick and Pick" men's goods, 1.40 centimes; "Pick and Pick " dress goods, 1.35 centimes. VI. For men^s and women's goods on Utrffe looms.— Mea^B goods woven with 4, 5, and 6 shafts, 0.67 centime; goods woven of mixed yams, 0.69 centime; goods of 2-ply No. 11 worsted filling, 0.80 centime; goods of carded woolen yam No. 10, 0.83 cen- time; dr^Ki goods woven with 4 shafts and mixed yams, 0.64 centmie; dress goods woven with 4 shafts and undyed yam, 0.62 centime; linings, (satin de Chine), 55 inches wide, 0.53 centime; linings (satin de Chine), 51 inches wide, 0.50 centime. VII. For dress goods 63 57 67 67 57 Week. .053 .053 .053 4.13 IWeek. Day... ...do.. ...do.. Hour.. Week. ...do.. ...do. . ...do.. 3.65 2.44 .162 .264 .609 '?.» 4.87 5.28 4.87 Piecework. Unit of pay. Picks. 1,000 l,oOO 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 "i,'666 1,000 Rate per unit. 80.018-10.024 .02-. 026 .023 .023 .024 .019 •.005 .022-.024 .022-. 026 .02 -.023 .01&-.024 •.005 .02 -.022 •.002 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 UOO 1100 1,000 1,000 UOO 1100 UOO UOO 1,000 1,000 .018-. 03 [62i-.626 .026-.03 .02 -.025 .021-. 03 .02 -.032 .031-. 038 .008 .010 .02 -.026 .03 -.032 .008 .010 .012 .012 .019-. 023 .019-. 023 1 Warp ends. * Time-work. »Fieoework. < Double. tin addition to base rate per unit. 766 EEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 21.~Rates of pay for different kinds of work dam by weavers in Austrian establuhments— Continued. ^*^»f^ww £stal> lish- ment No. 36 Kinds of work for which weavers are paid. Time work. 38 40 il 13 Weaving flannels, cheviots, woolens, lodens, uniforms. Weaving plain and lancy goods with backing. Males weaving on woolens and custom cloths. Males weaving on woolens first year after ai>- prenticeship. *^ FMiales weaving on woolens on power looms. When loom fi xing When waiting for materials. . . Whm weaving taUith cloth on loom'76 inches" When weaving tallith cloth on loom under 75 inches wide. Hoots per week. Unit of pay. 53| 53| 55 55 55 63 63 Day... Rate per nnit. Piecework. to. 668 Unit of pay. Week. ...do. . . .do. . ..do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. 5.68 4.70 3.25 6.28 5.28 3.25 3.45 Pidu, 1,000 Rate per unit. I0.018-.02 Sixteen establkhments paid for the weaving of their regular product upon the basis of 1 000 picks of filling varnToven; IsS^s paid for regular work on a time ba^. For all classes of goods woven in the ir.^A-f^^^''u ^^^J'^^ P^^ ^'^?? P^^ ^d not faU below 1.8 cents nor did It nse above 3.8 cents, which rate was reached in only 1 es- tabhshment and was paid for weaving with 1-ply carded wool yam. An average of the highest rates reported for the 16 establishiients Tho J.1nT«hli'9i ^'^^^ ?&' ^^ '^ ^^^^ significant that the rates shown in Table 21 are not basic wage rates, or minimum rates, as thev were m.the reports for the GermL mills', from which ^b'a^s the rates paid to the weaver rise according to mcreases in the number of f W«T^ ^'' ^^^ r"?^? ^f ^""^J ^^ ^^ shuttles, etc. In fact, only ml!t i^Vr" ^^m '''^J'''^ an mcrease over these rates (establish- ments 13, 19, and 20) and even there the mcrease in the rate per 1 000 picks was to be paid only on less than 65 picks looms. The cloths on which these rates were paid were summer and winter wear: plain and fancy woolens and half-woolen worsteds, piece dyed ancf stock f/I,A JT?"^ ""^ plam and mtncate weave; goods with a backing: and included lodens meltons cheviots, tricots, atlas, and eskimol/oths: trouserings coatings and up-to-date suitings; twills and velours in the 15 estabhshments paying weavers by day or by week the iZ? /^^^ ^I'^ for weaving reguTar product was |3.25 per week or 64 cents per day, and the highest rate $5.68 per week, or 95 cents per day, was paid in estabhshment No. 40 to weavers who had completed one year alter having fimshed their apprenticeship. An average rate was $4.31 per week, or 72 cents per day. Included in the cloths IZTli^ZZl^^^-:^^ ^''?^^^^^ rj«^^^' overcoatings, doe- skins, winter coatUnings, vestdothrinr&il^^urdo'ti^rc^^^ _, taUith cloth, and up-to-date suitings. All lodem umlorms, flaimas .axx^.u .;iutii, anu up-io-aate smtmgs. AH 01 the 8 estabhshments which reported rates for weaving samples paid for such work on a time basis, the lowest rate paidTeing equafto $2 46 ner week of 60 houra, or 41 cents per day, Ld the llghest rate paid being $4.26 per week, or 71 cents per da^. Twelve estabhsh- ments paid weavers on a time basis for loom fi^g, 8 of them payinc^ 5^ cents per hour, and the other 4 paying 5.5, 577, 6.1, or 9.6 dente per hour, respectively, for such workl •''=»''' "«* BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 767 One establishment paid 26.4 cents per day for tieing-in; another paid from 0.8 to 1 cent per 100 threads, and a third paid from 0.8 to 1.2 cents per 100 threads on single and double beams and on plain and fancy warps. For drawing-in 1 estabhshment paid 16.2 cents per day. Three estabhshments paid weavers from 5.3 to 9.6 cents per hour for waiting for materials, and 1 paid them 61 cents per day for weaving with badly running yarns. WOOLEN AND WORSTED WEAVERS' WAGE SCALES IN BELGIUM. Verviers and its immediately surrounding towns constitute one of the principal Belgian centers for the manufacture of woolens and worsteds. Formerly a carded woolen goods center, it has for several years taken up worsted goods until now the worsted mills employ more persons than does the carded woolen industry. Commission weaving is quite prevalent, and an organization of commission weavers has formulated a scale of rates to be charged for the weaving of the various kinds of goods they produce. These commission weavers own or rent a few looms and then do weaving for manu- facturers who have not enough weaving caj)acity of their own. Thev are jobbing weavers who have no financial interest either in the stock material or in the finished product. As a result of this system a class of so-called manufacturers has arisen who do not own any mills or looms whatever, but simply buy yarn as raw material, turn it over to these jobbing weavers, and receive back this woven cloth, which they turn over to job dyeing and finishing establishments, receiving it again from them as finisned cloth which they sell. The commission weavers of tlie above-mentioned association pay their operatives, or the actual weavers at the looms, two-thirds of the price cnarged by them for the work. Weavers throughout this region are paid per 1,000 picks; the pre- vailing wage scales of eight establishments m this region were obtamed by the Tariff Board, together with the rates agreed upon by the organization of commission weavers as the minimum wage for weavers in the employ of any of its members. These scales indicate the rate paid per 1,000 picks for some simple variety of cloth produced in the mill. To this basic rate extra allowances are added for weaving more difficult fabrics. Thus, in most of the mills the basic rate appUes to the weaving of undyed worsted yarns. For dyed yarn there is an extra rate of from 1 to 3 centimes (0.193 to 0.579 cents) per 1,000 picks. For woolen yarn there is often an extra rate of 2 or 3 centimes (0.386 to 0.579 cents) per 1,000 picks. It is customary to increase the basic rate for extra warp beams beyond the first; for extra shafts beyond the twelfth; for goods with an unusually small^ or im- usually large number of picks per inch; for goods woven with extra shuttles above two; for an exceptionally large number of warp ends; for two or more colors in the warp ; whenever there is mohair, cotton, or silk in the warp; for woolen warp face or woolen filling; for especially heavy goods, or for other complications that make the work of the weaver slower or more difficult. The general significance of the extra allowances, and the difference in the basic rates, is indi- cated in Table 22. In this table the first line gives the basic rate per 1,000 picks in cents and decimals of a cent; as for instance, group A, which is the group of commission weavers, pay 2.316 cents per 1,000 picks to their 768 EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUM! K. employees for weaving the basic-rate cloth; the establishment F or group represented bv that schedule payg 2.895 cents per 1 ,000 picks. Only one other establishment pays as low as the contract weavers. The other items in the tables, whioh are simply conditional additions to the basic rate, are believed to be self explanatory. Table 22. — Weaver^i wages, per 1,000 picks, paid in worsted and woolen mills, at Vet" viers, Belgium. [In 9 establishmeuts and groups of establishments.] Wages, rates, and esctra allowances. Establishments oi groups of establishments. A. B. C. D. E. F. 0. H. I. Basic rates for worsteds Cents. 2.316 Cents. 2.316 Cents. 2.509 .193 Cents. 2.702 Cents. 2.702 C^nts. 2.895 .193 .193 .386 .579 .772 .193 .386 .579 .772 .965 .386 .193 .386 .193 .386 CefOs. 2.934 .386 Cents. 2.972 .193 Cents. 3.088 Extras- Goods witli nnder 40 picks per incli Goods with 80 to 100 piclES per inch .193 .386 .386 .193 .386 .579 .386 .579 .772 .386 .386 .386 .579 .193 Goods with 101 to 110 piclis per inch .193 Goods with 111 to 140 picics per inch .388 Goods with 141 to 180 piciis per inch .579 3 snuttles .193 .386 .679 .772 .965 .193 .193 .386 .579 .772 .966 .386 .386 .772 4 shuttles .193 .386 .579 .772 .965 .193 .386 .193 .193 .386 .579 5 shuttles 6 shuttles .193 7 shuttles ^. . . .386 Each shuttle thrown by hand. 2 warp beams .193 .193 .193 .193 .193 .193 .386 .193 .579 .193 3 warp beam^ Single^piece warps .193 Half-piece warps .579 .579 .579 .772 .193 .386 .193 .579 Woolen filling .386 .386 .579 .193 .386 .193 .579 Woolen baclE filling .193 .579 .193 .193 .193 .193 Woolen warp face .193 .193 .579 .193 .193 .193 Warps containing mohair, cotton, or sehappe Warps of woolen and worsted. .193 .193 Bad material Yarn-d ved goods .579 .579 .193 .579 Dyed worsteds with 111 to 140 picks per inch Goods with 5,000 to 5,500 warp ends .193 .386 .579 .772 .193 Goods with 5,501 to 6,000 warp ends Goods with 6,001 to6,500 warp ends Goods with 6,501 to 7,000 warp ends 13 to 18 shafts .193 .193 .386 .386 .579 .7Ti .193 .386 .579 .579 .772 .965 .386 .386 .386 19 to 24 shafts .193 .386 .386 .579 .193 .386 .386 .579 .772 .579 .386 .193 .193 .193 .386 .386 .386 .579 .579 .772 .193 .193 .193 .386 .386 25 or 26 shafts 27 or 28 shafts .386 29to32shafts .386 33 to 36 shafts .386 2 colors in warp .679 .772 .386 .772 .772 ... 8 colors in warp .193 Undyed cheviots Undyed cheviots with woolen backing Overcoating with 1-ply wnolen fiUfng 1.158 .966 .965 OvercoatinK with S-nlv fllline. ** Beavers "naving not over 60 picks per inch .965 .966 .772 .386 .386 "Beavers" having 61 to 75 picks per inch "Beavers'* having over 76 nicks Der inch ... "Sfttoen w^ftve" worsted *? .386 .579 .965 .386 .886 Dyed woolens with less than 50 nicks ner inch. .96S Woolen fabrics not otherwise snecffied .386 Military cloth. . . .772 ■ ' ■' > " ' i! t - BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABJJ ON SCHEDT7I;B K. 769 Table 23. — Weavers^ rates of wages, per 1,000 picks, in the woolen and worsted industry of Verviers, Belgium. {In 8 establishments or groups of establishments.] 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Q 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 UNDYED WORSTEDS AND CHEVIOTS. " Sateen weaves" not over 12 shafts nor over 100 picks per inch, nor over 2 shuttles Sateen weaves not over 12 shafts nor 100 picks per inch, nor 2 shuttles, with carded warp face . . Plain weaves with not over 13 shafts nor over 90 picks per inch, nor over 2 shuttles Plain weaves with not over 13 shafts nor over 2 shuttles, having 91 to 100 picks per inch " Three by one" weaves with not over 26 shafts, nor more than 100 picks per inch, and not over 2 shu ttles "Three by one" weaves with not over 26 shafts, with 101 to 135 picks per inch, and not over 2 shuttles " Three by one" weaves with not over 26 shafts, nor more than 100 picks per inch, not over 2 shuttles, and with woolen warp backing "Two by one" weaves with not over 18 shafts, nor over 120 picks per inch, nor more than 2 shuttles " Two by one" weaves with not over 18 shafts, nor over 120 picks per inch, nor more than 2 buttles, with extra beam of woolen or cotton warp "Two by one" weaves with not over 18 shafts, nor over 120 picks per inch, nor more than 2 shuttles, with 2 different kmds of warp on a single beam "Sateen weaves" with woolen flllmg, and not over 80 picks per inch, nor over 2 shuttles — , . Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts, nor over 60 picks per inch, nor over 2 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts, with 61 to 70 picks per inch, and not over 2 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts, nor over 2 shuttles, and containing 71 to 80 picks per inch Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts, nor over 2 shuttles, containing not over 60 picks Wper inch, with woolen warp face or back orsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shaftSj con- taining not over 60 picks per inch, with 3 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shaftSj con- taining not over 60 picks per inch, with 4 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts, with 5 shuttles, and not over 60 picks per inch . . Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts nor over 60 picks per inch, with an extra warp beam. DYED WORSTEDS AND CHEVIOTS. Worsteds or cheviots virith not over 16 shafts nor over 60 picks per inch, with 2 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts with 61 to 80 picks per inch, and 2 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts with not over 60 picks per inch, 2 shuttles, and with woolen weft face or backing Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts nor over 60 picks per inch, with 3 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts nor over 60 picks per inch, with 4 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts nor over 60 picks per inch, with 5 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 16 shafts nor over 80 picks per inch, and with 2 warp befons and 2 shuttles Worsteds or cheviots with not over 60 shafts nor over 80 picks per inch, and with 2 warp beams and 5 shuttles as. 2.702 2.895 2.316 2.509 2.702 2.702 3.088 2. 895 3.088 3.281 3.088 2.316 2.509 2.702 2.895 3.088 3.281 3.474 2.509 2.895 3.088 3.281 3.088 3.281 3.474 3.281 4.246 Cts. 2.895 2.895 2.702 3.088 2.895 3.088 3.088 3.281 2.895 3.281 3.474 3.667 3.860 2.895 3.088 3.281 3.281 3.281 3.474 3.667 3.474 3.860 Cts 2.895 3.474 2.895 2.895 3.088 3.088 3.281 3.281 3.281 3.281 2.896 2.895 2.895 3.821 3.474 3.667 3.860 2.895 3.088 3.474 3.474 3.281 3.474 3.667 3.667 Cts. 2.702 2.895 2.316 2.509 2.702 2.702 3.281 2.895 3.088 3.281 3.088 2.316 2.702 2.702 3.088 3.281 3.281 3.667 2.702 3.088 3.281 3.474 Cts. 3.088 3.281 3.088 3.667 3.667 3.667 3.667 3.667 3.667 3.667 3.667 Cts 2.509 2.895 2.702 2.702 Cts. 3.088 3.088 2.702 2.702 2.702 3.281 2.895 2.895 3.088 3.281 3.474 Cts. 2.895 3.088 3.088 3.281 3.281 3.281 3.474 3.281 3.474 3.667 3.860 3.088 3.281 €.346 770 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 2Z.—Wmver§' nOm of wages, per 1,000 pidts, in the woolen md worsted industm of Venners, Belgium — Continued. 28 S9 30 31 33 33 34 35 DT1I> WOOLBUa. With not over 16 shafts nor more than fiO picks Wper inch, nor over 2 shuttles :. ith not over 16 shafts nor more than 50 pIcIes per inch, with 3 shuttles . With not over 16 shafts nor more than 50 picks Waer inch, with 4 shuttles ith not over 16 shafts nor more than 50 picks* per inch, nor more than 2 shuttles, woven with all worsted fillmg With not over 16 shafts nor more than 50 picks' per inch, nor more than 2 shuttles, with twisted warp yam "Beayera" having not more than 60 picks per' '* Beavers'-' having from hi to *70' picks' pe'r'inch'. '. *. "Beavers" having from 71 to 90 picks per inch. . . 3.281 3.474 3.667 3.068 3.088 3.281 Cto. 3.281 3.474 3.667 Ct8. 3.088 3.281 3.4741 3.667 3.474 3.231 Cte. 3.281 3.281 3.4741 CU. 4.053 CU. Ctt. 3.474 3.667 4.053 4.053 4.053 8 3.667 3.088 3.088 Ct». 3.281 3.281 3.474 3.281 3.281 In Table 22, column A applies not to a single establishment, as do the other letters, but to the group of establishments constitut- mg the Union of Weavers on Commission (Union des Tisseurs a I* aeon). It will be noted that the basic rate in these nme establish- ments or groups of establishments ranges from 12 to 16 centimes (2.316 cents to 3.088 cents). It should be noted, however, that the basic rate ^ not necessarily the rate paid for precisely the same fabric, woven under precisely the same conditions; for in some of the mills the basic rate applies to a more comphcated or more difficult weave Ik^ ^- ^*"^^- ^ *^® estabUshments tabulated under A and B the basic rate applies to a plain weave, 13 harness, 2 shuttle fabric havmg less than 80 picks per inch. In estabhshment C it appHes to the same f abnc woven with any number of harness up to 1 8. In estab- hshment D it apphes to women's broadcloth (woven in the gray) with 3 shuttles and up to 24 harness. In estabhshment E it applies to sub- stantially the same goods, woven with not more than 25harness. In establishment F the basic rate is paid for fabrics woven with 18 har- ness and havmg not over 80 picks per inch. In establishment G the basic rate apphes to goods having up to 6,000 warp ends, requir- mg up to 24 harness and 3 shuttles. In establishment H the basic rate goods are woven with 3 shuttles and 20 harness on fast looms. In estabhshment I it is difficult to tell, from the wage scale, what is the nature of the cloth to which the basic rate applies. A clue to the differences in the rate of remuneration for weaving substantially the same fabric is furnished by Table 23. Although the rates differ somewhat from mill to mill, even for the same kmd of cloth, the weavers employed in the milia paying the lower rates are often quite as well off in the matter of total earnings as those m the mills paj-uig the higher rates. This is due to (1) the lower rates paid by mills having sjyeedier looms; the slower looms at V erviers make 60 to 70 picks per minute, while the faster looms make 90 and over. (2) In some of the mills paymg a higher rate there are longer and more frequent pauses because of lack of material or cur- tailment of the work day because of insufficient orders. It should be noted that the 1-loom system now predominates in the Verviers region, to the practical exclusion of the 2-loom system, which REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 771 at one time was quite extensively employed. The opposition of organized labor in the industry, culminating in the strike of 1906, appears to be largely responsible for the abandonment of the 2-loom system here. The rates indicated in the above tables apply uni- formly to 1-loom work. In Ghent, however, another important textile center of Belgium, the 2-loom system is not uncommon for woolens and worsteds. The cheaper grades of these goods' are made mainly at Ghent, and the rate of wages paid there is so low, compared with Verviers, that despite the 2rloom system the average earnings of the weaver are smaller than at Verviers, where they range from 4 to 6 francs ($0,772 to $1,158) per day of lOi or 11 hours, or 30 francs ($5.79) per week. A separate and distinct rate is generally allowed at Verviers — as elsewhere — for sample weaving. The rate paid for such work is usually a time rate, the rate bemg generally fixed at an amount that assures the weaver a weekly or daily earning of at least the average of efficient weavers working at piece rates. The wages of sample weavers are therefore exceptionally important, because they indicate what are regarded as the average earnings of the weaver. At Ver- viers several of the woolen and worsted mills employ a combination of time wages and piece wages for sample weavers. Several mills pay a rate of 4 francs ($0,772) in lieu of the basic rate, and add to this the same allowance for extras. The Weavers on Commission pay a flat rate of 4 francs ($0,772) per day for sample weaving. Another mill pays sample weavers a basic rate of 4 francs ($0,772) per day, I)lus 2 centimes (0.386 cent) per 1,000 picks for samples over 6 meters ong; 3 centimes (0.579 cent) per 1,000 picks for samples 3 to 6 meters long; and 6 centimes (1.158 cents) per 1,000 picks for samples not over 3 meters long. In another mill the daily rate for sample weaving is 4 francs ($0,772), but when samples are dyed in the yarn with 20 shafts or more, the sample weaver is entitled to an addi- tional rate of 2 centimes (0.386 cent) per 1,000 picks for the first sample. The weaver usually ties his own warp ends, the rate for this work being, as a rule, 2 centimes (0.386 cent) per 100 ends. One estab- lishment, however, pays 50 centimes (9.650 cents) for warps up to 4,000 ends, and 1 franc ($0,193) for warps of more than 4,000 ends. weavers' BA'mS IN FLEMISH MILTJS. In some of the Flemish weaving mills two rates are paid; one for wide looms and another for narrow looms that run somewhat faster. The usual speed of the wide looms is 90 to 95 picks per minute. That of the narrow looms is 115 to 120 picks per minute. The rates given in the above tables for these mills in Flanders are for wide looms. Two of these looms running 95 picks per minute would therefore make a theoretical maximum of 125,400 picks per day of 11 hours. But because of stops due to the inferior quahty of the material, to the 2-loom system, and to other circumstances, the average weaver work- ing on faorics for which the rate is 7 centimes (1.35 cents) will not pro- ducemore than 60,000 picks perday, thus earning 4.20 francs ($0.8106). Although the speed of the narrow looms is about 30 per cent greater, the weaver's rate is 15 to 20 per cent less. Whereas the daily wages of the weaver at Verviers are between 4 and 6 francs ($0,772 and 772 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEBTTMI K. 1 $1.16), «ie average being around 5 francs ($0,965), the average dailv wagM of the Flemish weaver wiU not usuaUy exceed 4 francs ($0,772). A few of the mdfa for which wage scales were obtained provide for ,^ K^^^l? "^ "° uidemnity to the weaver when the latter is forced to be idJe because of lack of yam. In two establishments it is soecifi- n^^2Wrtl*?.l"^**'.r*''^ for yam the manuflcturer^^hSl pay 2.50 francs (48} cents) per day, after the first day of waitme " r^«^t« «^^.T.^*' K^ ""* reference is made to the sul)iect; but the practice appears to be common. On the other hand, m ^ of the miJJs there is a recognized list of the defects in weaving, for which the weaver must pay. As a mle, the weaver is chained tie exact or the wE'T?" -fi^^i "* removing these defects. Even in the instances in which a specific fine is imposed for specific defects, the amount of the me'nd thes^def^J" ^^P?"'™^* -^** '' <^^^ ^he manufacturer to At Ghent, the textile center of Flanders, the 2-loom system is not uncommon; but the woolen and worsted fabrics woven here are as a rule of lower grade than those made at Verviers, and the looms run somewhat faster. Partly for these reasons the piece rate at Ghent is i«rfn^?f t VervieiB. Indeed, it is so much fewer that the weekly ©ammg^ of the woolen and worsted weaver in Flanders will average aoproximately one-fourth 1^ than in the Verviera region. Becaule ?L w o • "^ f^^^"^- ^^"^ ^^^ relatively high wage rate at Verviera, the weavmg of certam classes, of goods there is no longer profitable and the work is generalljr done either in certain German to^s where the 2-loom system prevails, or the ^oods are woven in Flanders at a considerably lower cost than at Verviers. In both regions the weaving alm^n^^'^rf worsteds is carried on at night during seasons of great demand. Bu t night work m weaving is by no means so common as in TrSfs' oHhel^^l^tl.fri'^^' f or esutlish^^^ in these prancnes of the industry run as a rule both day and nieht. In both the Verviera region and in Flanders the majority of the weavers ^o^^k' ^^\^^?^^ women are employed to some extent. Flll.^^^i'' ^^^f *^® waf e scales of woolen and worsted mills in Glanders. These scales aU of which are based on the 2-loom system T2ll%^.^i^Zt7^''^ 5 centimes (0.965 cents) to 11 centime^ {Z, 12S cents) per 1,000 picks for goods woven in undyed yams. For dyed jrarns the rate averages 3 centimes (0.579 cents) hi4er Typical cloths, for which partial loom analysis could be eiven showmg basic rates m three of these wage scales are presented below : -WooUn and wonted wmven* wages o/estahltshmmt A, in Flanders, Belgium, Tablw24.- 1 2 3 4 5 6 CloCIi. Plain worsted do Plain worsted with woolen fiiliiiK Coarse worsteds OrdinaiT worsteds, yam dyed'.*.' \ Woftted with woolen filling Total warp ends. 8,527 fi,868 5,868 3,340 3,340 4,800 Wages. Shot- Ues. Picks per Inch. Beams. Shafts. Per 1^000 picks. Per yard of cloth. M Centt. (knu. 3 70 2 18 1.54 3.88 3 110 13 1.25 4.95 2 uo 13 1.23 4.87 2 46 15 1.16 1.02 3 M 24 1.35 2.73 3 UO 10 1.25 4.85 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 77a Table 25. — Woolen and worsted weavers' wages of establishment B, in Flanders, Belgium. 1 2 3 4 5 G 7 Cloth. Total warp ends. Shut- ties. Picks per inch. Worsted cheviots ...do ...do Worsted chlviots with woolen filling. Fancy worsteds with woolen filling. . — do Worsteds containing cotton , 2.600 2,950 3,450 2,950 3,450 3,450 3,450 40 45 50 80 60 54 54 Shafts. Wages. Per 1,000 picks. 6 G-8 8 6 6-8 6 6 Cents. 1.18 1.35 1.35 1.19 1.35 1-39 1.23 Per yard of cloth. Cents. 1.70 2.09 2.43 3.33 2.92 2.70 2.3t Table 2Q.— Woolen and worsted weavers' wages of establishment C, in Flanders, Belgium. Cloth. • Warp ends. Shut- tles. Picks per inch. Shafts. Wages. Per 1,000 picks. Per yard of cloth. 1 Plain worsteds 3,000 3.000 3,600 3,600 4,750 4,750 o 2 1 1 1 2 48 48 58 92 56 53 • 4 18 6 6 10 14 Cents. 1.16 1.45 .965 .965 1.16 1.48 Centn. 2.09 2.51 2.01 3.10 2.34 2.82 2 do 3 Plain woolens 4 do 6 do 6 do SPEED OF LOOMS IN ENGLAND, GERMANY, FRANCE, AND BELGIUM. Xo subject is more difficult of approach than that of the theoretical speed of looms in use over any very wide area. Individual mills have new and speedy looms running under the same roof with old and slow ones, 48-pick looms being found w4th 110-pick looms. If this is true in single mills, it is much more true when a country is under discussion. Under the conditions found, about all that can be done is to give such a general view as is possible. There is no doubt that m England the looms of from 70 to 80 picks per minute of possible efficiency, or what is known as ''speed of the loom,'' are rapidly bemg displaced, and that high-speed tappet and dobby looms of from 130 to as high as 155 picks per mmute are coming more and more mto vogue. Of course the actual percentage of production, as based upon the possible production if measured by the highest mdicated speed, will decrease as the speed of the loom goes up; nevertheless the actual output in yards of cloth increases, and increases materiaUy. EspeciaUy is this true with that class of fabrics such as worsteds and cotton warps to wliich these looms are particularly adapted. In other words, cloths made of strong yarns that will stand high-speed looms with a minimum of breakage can be put upon these looms to an ever-increasing advantage. In the case of carded woolen goods there is no advantage in looms of more than 90 picks per minute under the present method of weav- ing, as the faster looms break the threads more frequently and the actual output in yards per loom or per operative is not materially increased. In Germany the highest speed of loom which came under 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 11 774 EEPOBT OP TABIFF BOASD ON SCHEDUI,E K. EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDtTtB K. fl M> observation was 130 picks, except at Mfllhausen, where a few 160- ?f Kl'^'"^ '!;^'f .'fPorted, and only in the Gera, Greiz, Glauchau Ttl^r^iT **f ^""^ ^? ^"^^''^ "^ PO Dicks per minute ent;r serious*? ^«T^ ff l*"""- ^^r" *'« ^^"^ k^'^"^^ *«'• th« lighter-weight goods and for women's dress goods. While aU the looms in this l>c- ff A J i^- ^'- ^^°' ?°" 120 pick looms are now practicaUv the standard of this region In the districts making men'^s wearovM! coatmgs, etc., there is found the greatest diver^rence as for inWnnPA between the Cottbus-Fo«t .regifn and AachSn in CoUbus ?he average speed of the looms in 46 establishments was 76 ^icks oer minute, and the looms in 22 establishments in Foist shows the same average speed. At Spermberg in 1 9 establishments the average speed itwiTTv.''^ ^"/'''^^ P*"" °"n«te whUe at Sommerfeld in 7 estal^ lisbments the speed averages 57. At Aachen the weaver's rate is based on looms Jrom 90 to 100 picks, and while there are many 70 to 80 pick looms, a higher rate is" paid for such, showing the standard to be 90 picks and over. A num1)er of "pick and pick" looms makmg thL^'n.^ wt^jf^"*? have been introduced into this section, an! tneir numt>er is mcreasmg rapidly. It must be remembered that many of the apparently low-speed looms are of the Schonlierr type, capable of weaving almost any ikd f w^'!^**^?-^'*'*™' T'^ tli'»t. after all a 100-pick Ichonherr loom fa a very effective machme and probably for all-around cloth manu- facture IS as effective as any loom. Special looms for special weaves can not of course be considered here. *^ weaves H.^^[^^ outside of the Koubaix district, and to an increasmg d^ree m Eoubaix, the type imd speed of looms are foUowing what n:^1SgX^oKTn5C?=o*nt* •^' ^•^-^^'^ ''"''^ ^'^ ^^^^y Outside of Verviers this is also essentiaUy true of Belgium. Ihe 1-loom and 2-loom districts have been frequently referred to ^cially m that part of the report showing cost on sample fabrics Tf^ 1-loom district problem is twofold in Its nature, fc the S place there are some fabrics upon which a weaver can operate onlv one loom and could not attend another even if running on it an eS ^r™L*'i1«' i„^r^^^ manufacture of certain lines of\oods tends to wntralize m localities this generally produces the 1-loom district tion, however, is the trade union and the trade custom or hereditv which makes the weaver, whether union or nonunion, opposed to i change of meihod or system. The trade unions of the cira Strict for mstance, do not oppose the 2-loom system on women's dress goods • the same orgamzation opposes the introduction of 2-loom work in Cottbus Forst, Spermberg, and Aachen, and tliis m turn operates to wet' and'^fh*?™*' P"'^''" principally, if not exclusively, men's wnrW Th^it''^- e^*^-^"^^ that are in then- nature 1-loom ZId f„^ VitTT "^ ^}^^»^''<^^^ shown by the fact that in fhi 1 f^Jo I -^ac^D' but where the union influence is not felt, fn tlL?„i Jr-n ^«7'ng,'-ate« and methods of production are founj United Sme" " "^^^ ^*™*' ^*'*™' J"'* as is true in the is held Tvl^l'^rT'^'-'^'^ ^ ^'''^^■•^' ?«¥""i' the 1-loom svstem 18 held by trade orgamzations, and m the latter place a prolonged 775 strike against 2-loom work induced the employers to stop the attempt to intrtxiuce the method, at least for the time being. This might seem to be a local issue, but it has this significance, that should the 1-loom districts become 2-loom districts the weaving rate per yard of cloth would be materially reduced on such fabrics as can be woven on two looms or when another loom on a different fabric could be operated jointly with one on this fabric; and, moreover, many classes of goods now confined to a few districts could bo economically manufactured in many. SPINNING WAGE SCALES AND COSTS IN OEKMANY- ENGU^ND, AND BELGIUM. WORSTED TAEN SPINNING, GERMANY. A large amount of material was collected on yam spinning in the form of wage scales in force in individual mills or groups of mills. These wage scales, however, go into such a maze of detail that to print simple translations of them would do more to confuse than to en- lighten. It has been deemed more satisfactory to presefiit the matter in a more concrete form, and show what a mule spinning crew will do in a given time, and the cost of labor per 100 pounds of yarn. To begin with, a normal crew in practically all parts of Germany consists of one mule spinner who operates two mules; he has four piecers and two alley boys, or a crew of seven persons. When for any reason a spinner works with three piecers (to two mules) he receives 8 per cent extra, and each piecer receives 7 per cent more; when there are but two piecers the spinner gets 20 per cent more and the piecers 15 per cent more on the rate, not on the standard pay of the week. Four piecers to a team, however, is the rule, and only the absence of a piecer now and then from sickness or shortage of help reduces the number. The international or metric system of yam counts is used ; that is, the number of the yarn is the multiple of 1,000 meters required to weigh a kilo. No. 20 yams means that 20,000 meters of such yam weiglis 1 kilo. All of these yam counts have been given the nearest American equivalent. Theoretically, a team is expected to produce 33,000,000 meters of yam in a week of 58 hours ; the number and weight of the yam would, of course, depend on tlie size to which it is spun. Just as the standard output is 33,000,000 meters, the standard earnings or wages of a good mule spinner is set at 26 marks ($6.19) in a week of 58 hours. The four piecers each receive 63 per cent of the spinner's wages, or 16.38 marks ($3.90), making 65.52 marks, or $15.60, for piecei-s' wages. The spool or alley boys get 9 marks ($2.14) each, or 18*marks ($4.28) for the week, making a total wage or earnings for the team of 109.52 marks ($26.07) in a week of 58 hours. This is the actual standard in the mill from which the figures given on page 776 were secured. • This table represents the facts in an establishment having 74 mules, 48,100 spindles, employing 37 spinners, 148 piecers on, and a total of 650 employees. It is based on the output of one spinner operating I f 776 BEPOBT OP TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. two mules or 1,300 spindles, and shows, iirst, the international count or yam number; second, the American yam number: the number of of pounds of yam of the indicated size that would be produced in a week of 58 hours; the earnings of the team (of seven persons) per 100 SC™ tf "^^'^^^^^^ ^^^^^ *^^ T'^""^ «^ ^^^^^^ the Lnner • * r Pf^ ^^ ^"^^^ ""^ y^"^ «^ ®*^^ si^se. The table is earned up to JNo. 69 yam. ^ , To make it clearer, take the yam No. 45 in the first column which IS the mtematwnal or metric count 45; this equals our woret^ yam ^o. 40 and a team of seven persons (one spinner, four piecers. and two alley boys) operating two mules of 650 spindles each, or 1 300 spindles, win produce m the establishment under consideration 1,613.7 pounds of 40s yarn (36,036,360 yards) in a week of 58 hours «nLrii' tn q^q/^^"^ T^T? ^^'^^^^ P^^ 100 P«"^^s; the spinner $0 3834 per 100 pounds; the spinner earning $6.19 for his week s work, each piecer $3.90, each alley boy $2.14, and the entire poup or team $26.07. In other words, the wages of the spinLi and team^ remaining permanent at the standard, the table shows how much of each sized yam must be produced in a week to reach the earnings, at the rate per 100 pounds for each sized yam. International yam number. Ameri- can equiva- lent in nearest whole num- ber. Pounds produced per week. 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 : 24 25. 25.... .■.'.■.■.■.■.'; 27 29*""."';" ■" 30 ■ 31 32 ;... sa 34 Ao. 3G 37 38 39 40 41 ■ 42 43 44 45 ; 46 14 15 16 17 18 19 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Wages of tmun per 100 pounds. 4,585.61 4.246.10 3,968.32 3,754.47 3,697.15 3,580.30 3.181.10 3.373.07 3.262.84 3,097.49 2,938.76 2,795.46 2,665.39 2,(301.45 2,546.34 2,438.31 2,339.10 2,336.90 2,204.62 2, 162. 73 2,138.48 2,010.02 1,948.89 1,847.47 1,818.81 1,790.15 1,737.24 Jl| UIIHr* Ot> 1. 635. 83 1.613.78 1,591.74 Wages of spin- ner per 100 pounds- 10.5684 .6139 .6568 .6943 .7050 .7280 .7488 .7728 .7989 .8415 .8870 .9324 .9779 1.0020 1.0237 1.0690 1.1143 1.1154 1.1182 1.2052 1.2189 1.2964 1.3375 1.4109 1.4331 1.4561 1.5004 1.6475 1,5934 1.61.52 1.6376 SO. 1349 .1457 .1564 .1648 .1674 .1728 .1778 .1835 .1897 .1998 .2106 .2214 .2322 .2379 .2430 .2537 .2645 .2647 .2807 .2861 .2894 .3078 .3175 .3349 .3402 .3456 .3562 . 3074 .3783 .3834 International yarn number. Ameri- can equiva- lent in nearest whole num- ber. 47 48 49 60 51 52 53 ^" -... 55., 66 57 68 59 60 ; 61 62 68 64 * 65 66 * 67 68 69 70 71 72 74 75 76 ;. TOm 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 60 61 52 53 54 55 56 57 68 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 09 Pounds produced per week. Wages of team per 100 pounds. 1,569.69 1,547.64 1,525.60 1,468.28 1,433.00 1,388.91 1,364.66 1,331.59 1,300.73 1,272.07 1,245.62 1,219.16 1,192.70 1, 168. 45 1, 146. 40 1,!22.15 1,091.29 1,069.24 1,061.60 1,031,76 1,014.13 99(>.49 978.85 963.42 945.78 930.35 888.46 868.62 855.38 824.53 Wages of spin- ner per 100 pounds. $1.6606 1.6842 1.7086 1.7753 1.8190 1.8767 1.9101 1.9575 2.0039 2.0491 2.0926 2.1380 2.1854 2.2308 2.2737 2.3228 2.3885 2.4378 2. 4787 2.5263 2.5703 2.6158 2.6629 2.7055 2.7560 2.8017 2.9338 3.0008 3.0473 , 3.1613' $0.3942 .3998 .4056 .4215 .4318 .4455 .4535 .4647 .4757 .4865 .4968 .5076 .5188 .5296 .5398 .5514 .5670 .5787 .5884 .5997 .6103 .6210 .6321 .6423 .6543 .6651 .6965 .7124 .7234 .7506 :« "^®^^^ ^" ^^^^ ^^' ^ *^^®, spinners* scale for a worsted-yam mill i^i^r£.i ""^^ Gennany, employing 1,686 persons, having 110 mules, and employing 55 spinners and 220 piecers-on. wool a^^thf W.^!.l^^^ '''' ^"^yP P"^^ P^' P^*"^^- T^^ ^"^1% o^ wool and the mtemational or metnc yam count are giyen. The rate REPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUI^ K, 77T for warp and for weft jram, on a different number of spindles carries a different rate, and this is brought out as clearly as a tabulation of |i wage scale can bring it out. When two rates appear, it is for a slightly different number of twists in the yarn per inch, an element that could not be tabulated. For instance, take No. 78 weft yam on 500 spindles, the rates are 3.3 and 3.4 cents per pound for the team; while with 680 spindles the rate is 3.2 cents per pound. Table 27. — Wages of mule spinners in a German worsted-yam mill. Number of sptndles. Kind of Quality Interna- tional Team wages per pound, m cents. Number nt Kind of Quality Interna- tional Team wages per yarn. of wool. yam count. spindles. yarn. of wool. yam count. pound, in cents. SOO Weft.... A 52 1.9 600 Warp... A 64 2.2 600. ...do A 64 2.5 600 ...do A 66 2.2 £00 ...do A 68 2.7 600 . ..do A 78 2.7-2.8 500 ...do A 68/9 2.7 640 or 680 ...do A 64 2.4 600 ...do A 69 2.8 640 or 680 ...do A 78 3.1 600 ...do A 72 3.0 640 or 680 ...do 2A 86 3.4 600 ...do A 73 3.0 640 or 680 ...do 2 A 90 3.6-3.7 500 — do A 74 3.1 640 or 080 ...do 3A 96 4.0-4.1 600 ...do A 78 3. 3-3. 4 640 or 080 ...do 4A 112 5.1 600 ...do A 79 3. 3-3. 4 680 Weft.... iBC 30 1.05 500 ...do 2A 84 3.5 680 ...do iBC 32 1.06 500 ...do 2A 86 3.7 680 ...do iBC 48 1.9 500 ...do 2 A 92 4.1 680 ...do B 40 1.2 600 ...do 3 A 96 4.3 680 ...do B 51 2.0 600 Warp... A 32 1.0 680 ...do 1 AB 64 2.5 600 ...do A 42 1.5 680 ...do lAB 68 2.7 600 ...do A 46 1.6 680 ...do. A 06 2.5 600 ...do A 49 1.8 680 ...do A TO 2.8 600 ...do A 52 1.9 680 ...do A 72 2.8 600 ...do A 53 2.0 680 ...do A 76 3.0 600 ...do A 54 2.0 680 ...do A 78 3.2 600 ...do A 56 2.1 680 ...do A 86 3.6 600 ...do »AB 16 .4 680 ...do 3An 92 3.9 600 ...do A 26 .8 680 ...do 3A 96 4. 1-4. 4 600 ...do A 48 1.5-1.6 680 ...do 4A 112 5.5-5.7 600 . . aUOid . I A 52 1.7 800 ...do A 74 2.g-3.2 1 Twisted together. * The above wages will be paid only for spinning up the weft yam; for warp yam 0.43 cents is deducted on quahty A, and 0.75 cerrts on qualities AA and AAA. WAGES OF SPINNERS AND PIECERS IN GERMAN TOWNS. Table 28 gives the standard rate of earnings for worsted spinners and piecers in various establishments and locaHties in Germany. The table shows the location of the establishment, the number of spinners, and standard weekly rate of earmngs. It is fully reahzed that in both of these occupations the piece rate payment of wages prevails, and that a spinner earns what he prodiices at that rate, nevertheless the standard is fixed on an output that is more or less of a task system; and these are frequently protected by a guaranteed minimum that insures the worker against loss from any reason not his own fault. The figures here given may be accepted therefore as represent- ing the standard earnings of the occupations in the estabhsnments. 778 KEPOKT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Wliere the name of a town is given more than once it means different establishments in the same town: Table 28. — Rates of pay for spinners and piectrs in specified German localities. Place. Leipzig DeJmenJktorlt . . . Augsborg Leipzig Exstein Lennep Bchedewitz Leipzig Mu&m^sen Zwiclaui.. Zwotzen Butzweikr MuUmusen Eisenacli. Schweina Oosmtannsdorf Longenfalza Rooneburg €aiitzscti DreBden Kappel LangenfaJza — Domsfeld BaW MuUmusen...!. Spinners. Number. 46 S3 m 7 10 29 49 42 34 27 37 9 25 38 17 21 31 7 15 5 14 7 2 21 31 Earnings per week 16.43 5.71 6.07 6.31 5.71 5.47 5.95 6 M 7.50 6.07 C.19 6.00 7.74 5.83 5.24 e.fto 5.71 5.12 6.43 6.06 5.47 7.02 7.38 Piecere. Number. 184 132 230 28 156 116 196 166 136 108 148 36 100 152 68 84 124 28 60 20 56 28 8 84 124 Earnings per week. S3. 09 3.93 3.69 3.33 3.33 3.81 3.21 3.27 5.02 3.57 3.71 4.46 5.12 2.90 3.57 2.98 4.28 2.50 3.21 2.86 3.81 3.86 2.38 4.58 4.94 EFFICIENCY OF IaBOB; WAOES, AND LABOR COST BY PROCESSES, IN A GEEMAN WORSTED SPINNING MILL. A persistent effort was made to secure process efficiency and costs everjr where, and an opportunity was afforded in a German worsted spinning mill to secure minute and accurate data on each operation and process. The mill makes high-CTade w^orsted yams, such as entef into the class of goods imported into the United States and is thoroughly equipped with up-to-date machinery, buying its raw wool in the grease, canying on all processes preliminary to and inchiding spinning. It does its own wool, top, and yam dyeing. In the fol- lowing statement only direct labor is accounted for; this does not include either inspection or common roustabout labor. Beginning with the sorting of the wool, which is, of course, a purely handwork process, the sorting room was found to employ 22 wool sorters, all women, and 2 rag sorters, both men. The menVere paid $1.07 per day. The wool sorting is piecework and the women earn from 64 to 66.6 cents per day; the average output per day being 13,228 pounds of sorted wool for the 22 women, or an average of 601 pounds per sorter per day; the labor cost for actual sorting being 0.13 of a cent per pound. This does not include the inspectors, who are men, and who are comparatively well paid. The sorted wool is conveyed in chutes to the scouring room, where three men and four wom^n operate two machines. The average daily output of scoured wool is about 6,173 pounds, or 3,086 pounds per machine, and 882 pounds per worker. The average wages of the EEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 779 men operatives on these machines is 95.2 cents per day; and 50 cents for the women; the labor cost being 0.08 of a cent per pound of scoured wool. From the scouring department the wool goes to the card room, where 27 persons are employed directly upon the carding process. Of these, four are men and 23 are women, all over 16 years of age. They are paid by the day, and the wages for the men average $1.07; women are paid from 52.4 cents to 54.7 cents per day. The output averages about 5,732 pounds per day; 159.2 pounds per machine, and 212 pounds per worker per day, the labor cost per pound of carded wool being 0.29 of a cent. From the card room the material goes to the combing department, where 15 women tend 36 up-to-date combing machines and 4 gill boxes. The work here is on a time basis, and the daily rate ranges from 52.4 to 54.7 cents. The average daily output of tops is about 5,512 pounds, an average of 153 pounds per combing machine, or 367 pounds per worker; the labor cost per pound of tops, for comb operatives only, is 0.15 of a cent. Drawing. — There are 115 women and 5 men in the drawing depart- ment converting tops into roving. The average daily production for the department is about 5,732 pounds, or 48 j)ounds per worker. Wages are paid on a piecework oasis. There is 1, male over 17 years old whose earnings average 80.9 cents per day; 4 boys between 16 and 17 years old get a beginner's rate of 38.1 cents per day; and the women workers earn 54.7 to 59.5 cents per day. The average labor cost per pound of roving is 1.19 cents. Mide spinning. — There are 18,600 spindles in the mule room, and a total of 119 workers, 53 of whom are males, and 66 females; 20 are under 16 years of age. The daily output is about 1,984 pounds of yam, which is 10.7 pounds per 100 spindles, and 17 pounds per worker, including children. The 15 spinners (on piece rates) have an average daily earning ranging from $1.05 to $1.09; 18 male piecers have an average earning ranging from 83 to 88 cents a day; female piecers 64 to 71 cents a day; the 20 bovs receive an average of 38,1 cents per day. The labor cost per pound of yarn produced is 4.23 cents. Ring spinnim.— There are 16,800 spindles in the ring-spinning department. Tlie total employees number 108, one of whom is 'a man; there are 101 females over 16, and 6 girls under 16 years of age. The average output per day is about 3,527 pounds of yarn; 21 pounds per 100 spindles, or 33 pounds per worker, including children. Wages are paid on piecework basis; the 1 man earns 90.4 cents per day; the women average 59.5 cents, and the 6 girls are paid a beginner's rate of 38.1 cents per day. The average labor cost per pound of yam is 1.79 cents. Doubling and twisting. — The 28 twisting frames in this department have 8,880 spindles; there are 9 doubhng frames. There are 112 employees, 3 of whom are men, 94 women, and 15 girls under 16 years of age. The average output of the department is about 2,205 pounds per day, 79 pounds per twisting frame, or 25 pounds per 100 spindles; 245 pounds per doubling machine; and 20 pounds per worker, including children. 780 BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The average wage on piecework basis for men is $1, and 59.5 cents for women. The children were on a time wage of 38.1 cents per day. The average labor cost per pound of yarn is 2.91 cents. Packing and steaming, — There are 23 employees in jhis department engaged directly on the processes of the work. Of these, 7 are men and 16 are women. The daily output is about 5,512 pounds, or 240 pounds per worker. Wages are paid on an hourly rate basis and the men receive from 88.1 cents to 00.4 cents per day; the women 59.5 cents. The average labor cost per pound of yarn passing through this department is 0.29 of a cent. Vydng.'-As before stated, this firm does its own^ dyeing, whether of tops before spinning into yarn, or of yarn after it is spun, as the market demands. There are 16 men and 31 women employed in this department: the average daily output is about 5,952 pounds per day, an average of 298 pounds per dyeing machine, or 127 pounds per worker. It is time wages, and men are paid $1 per day, women 59.5 cents. The average cost per pound of material dyed is 0.58 of a cent. CARDED WOOLEN TARN SPINNING IN ENGLAND. Considerable data on carded woolen yarn spinning were secured in England, showing not only earnings of the spinners but the effi- ciency of the machines. These data are condensed in Tables 29, 30, and 31, which follow. In this tabulation the number of the yam as given means the skein number as used for shoddy and low woolen yam in England. No. 1 yarn is yam of which there are 1.536 yards to a 6-pound skein; No. 10 yam means 10 times 1,536 yards in a 6-pound skein. This number is used in the table, together with the use to be made of the yam. Thus 10 F is No. 10 filling or weft yarn, 10 W is No. 10 warp yam. The time of draw means the time in seconds which the mule carriage requires to run back and forth the distance it travels, or the length of the draw. The number of spindles each spinner tends is shown rather than the number of mules, which is always two. The other items in the tables are believed to be clear. REPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 781 Table 29. — Eficlmaj of machinery and operatives and rates of pay to operatives for spinr ning yams in Iluddersfield, Colne Valley, and Bradford districts. Material. Yam No. Rag wool. Rag and cotton. Rag and cotton. Rag and crossbred . Cotton and rag wxil. Cotton, rag, wool, and crossbred. Rag, wool, and crossbred. Rag and crossbred . Botany woo!, noils from Botany, or rag from Botany. Fine noils from Botany or Botany rags Rag, Aiistralian, and cotton bo Rag wool Rag wool, cotton, etc Do Rag wool and New Zealand Crossbred Do Tiag wool and cotton R ag wool lOF 10 F lOF lOF. lOF lOF lOF 18F 18F 18F.. ISF 18F 18F 18F 26F 26 F 26F 26 F 2GF 26F 26F . 34F 34 F 34F 34F 34F 34F 34 F low low low low low low , low 18W 18W 18W 18W 18W 18W , 18W , 26W , 26W , 2GW , 20 W , 26W 28W 26W , 34W , 34W 34W 34W 34W 34W 34 V/ 24WandF. ISWandF. 15 Wand F. 12WandF. 8 Wand F.. 8F 8W 8W 16W 24W 16F 16F 8F Time of draw. Seconds. 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 20 2C 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 30 30 30 40 30 40 26-28 2&-28 Length of draw. Ft. in. 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 r» 4 I 7 7 7 i 7 7 i 7 7 7 p^ I 7 7 7 7 t 7 7 6 6 6 6 6 6 5 6 6 7 7 6 c 6 6 Spindles tended. 6 5 8 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 G50 700 800 750 850 900 600 650 700 753 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 650 650 650 650 650 720 720 650 720 720 720 550 550 Produced I)er spin- dle per hour (56- hour week). Pounds. 0.066 066 066 066 064 063 062 042 042 042 041 041 040 039 031 031 031 031 030 030 029 025 025 025 025 024 024 023 061 061 060 060 05C 058 057 039 039 038 038 038 037 03C 029 020 028 028 028 027 027 023 023 023 023 022 022 022 017 023 028 032 037 051 056 071 034 037 022 057 093 Labor cost per spindle per hour.i Cents. 0.035 .034 .033 .032 .031 .030 .028 .036 .035 .034 .033 .031 .030 .029 .037 .036 .035 .033 .032 .030 .029 .037 .036 .035 .035 .032 .031 .030 .032 .035 .034 .033 .031 .030 .029 .037 .036 .035 .033 .032 .031 .029 .037 .030 .035 .031 .030 .038 .037 .006 .035 .033 .032 .031 .037 .037 .037 .037 .037 .035 .039 .039 .035 .038 .027 .044 .044 1 Does not include foremen. 782 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD Olf SCHEBTJtB K. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 783 Table 30. — Effideney of machinery and operatives and rates of pay to operatives for spin* ning yarns m Muddersjieldt Colne Valley, and Brmjord districts. Table 31. — Ej^ciency of machinery and operatives and rates of pay to operatives for spiniiing yams in lIiuMersJkld, Colne Valley , and Bradford districts. Material. Yam No. Time of draw. Length of draw. Spindles. Labor cost per poiind.^ Labor cost per spindle.' Mag wool. lOF lOF Seconds. 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 3S 21 21 25 25 25 20 26 20 26 26 20 20 10 26 20 20 20 SO 20 20 M m m 20 20 2f 17 37 17 17 27 27 27 27 27 27 17 27 27 17 27 27 27' 27 27 30 30 30 40 ao 40 26-28 26-28 Ft. in. 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 S 8 5 6 6 6 7 7 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 800 750 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 860 OQO 600 660 700 750 800 &50 900 660 G50 660 650 660 720 720 650 720 720 720 550 CeTits. 0.531 .517 .506 .493 .481 .469 .456 .850 .825 .811 .791 .770 .750 .730 1.168 L136 1.116 1.072 1.048 L020 .901 L470 1.430 L400 1.366 L331 L295 1.259 .581 .572 .560 .548 .536 .521 .506 .948 .921 .900 .876 .853 .832 .811 1.292 L257 1.236 1.199 L174 1.146 1.113 1.046 1.009 1.570 L533 L496 L459 L419 2.209 L599 L350 L167 L013 .658 .675 .544 L034 L028 1.184 .772 cents. 1.967 L916 10 F L857 10 F L793^ 10 F L724 lOF 1.653 10 F 1.578 Hiw and cotton 18F 2.008 18 F L953 18F 1.895 18F 18 F 18 F 1.828 1.759 1.687 18 F 1.611 26 F 2.048 26 F L991 Eae and crossbred 26 F 26 F 1.932 1.840 26F 1.772 26 F 1.698 26 F 1.622 34 F 2.063 34 F 2.002 34 F 1.945 ■Ill 34 F 1.974 34 F 1.807 34F 34 F 1.731 1.663 low 10 W 1.818 1.953 low 1.892 Cotton and nui wool low. low 10 W 1.830 L762 1.687 low 1.620 18W ... 2.040 18 W 1.991 Cotton rag wool and ciOGSbred 18 W 18W 18 W 1.935 1.863 1.792 18W 1.722 18W 1.647 26W 2.086 Bag wool and cro.ssbrwl 26W 26 W 2.028 1 970 20W 1.895 26W 1.830 26 W 1.758 26W 1.674 34W 2.126 Rag and cnasbred , 34 W 34 W 2.076 2.007 34 W 1.936 34 W 1.868 34W 1.794 Botanv wool, noils from Botany or rag fVom Botany. Fine noils from Botany or Botany lags. Bag, Australian, and cotton Do 24W.'andr'.*. ISW.andF.. ISW.andF.. 12 W. andF.. 8 W. and F . . 8F 8 W L714 .374 .874 .374 .874 Rag wool .374 Bag wool, cotton, etc Do L873 2.090 Rag wool and New Zealand 8W 2.094 Crossbred 16 W 1 912 Do 24W 2 059 Do lOF 16F 1 076 Rag wool and cotton 2.385 Rag wp<)i , , 8F 2.3.S5 Material. Rag wool- Yarn No. Rag and cotton. Rag and cross- Cotton and rag wool. Cotton, ra wool, a crossbred. 'Si Rag wool and crossbred. * Doee not include loremen. Rag and cross- bred. Botany wool, noils from Bot- any o r r a g from Botany. Fine noils from Botany, or Botany rags. Rag, Austra- lian, and cotton. Do Rag wool Bag wool, oot- ton, etc. Do 10 F 10 F 10 F 10 F lOF 10 F 10 F 18 F 18F 18 F 18F 18F 18 F 18 F 26F 26F 26F 26 F 26F 26F 26F 34 F 34F 34 F 34 F 34F 34 F 34 F low low low low low low low 18W 18W 18W 18W 18W 18W 18W 26 'V 28W 26W 26W 26W 26W 26W 34 W 34W 34 W 34W 34 W 34W 34 W 24 W. and ISW.andF. 15 W. andF. 12 W. andF. 8 W. andF. 8F. Time of draw. 8W. Seconds. 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 26 25 25 25 25 25 20 26 26 26 26 20 2C 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 m 26 26 20 26 26 26 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 30 30 Length of draw. Ft. in 7 t 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 i 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 4 7 7 7 / 7 7 7 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Spindles tended. 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 800 750 850 900 600 660 700 750 800 850 900 GOO 650 700 750 800 850 900 600 650 700 750 800 860 000 600 650 700 750 800 850 900 GOO 650 700 750 800 850 900 650 650 C50 650 650 720 720 Produced per hour all spin- dles (58- hom- week). Pounds. 38.293 41.569 44.276 46.931 49.448 51.690 53.741 24.431 26.500 28.207 29.897 31.500 32.966 34.258 18. 138 19.638 20.897 22.190 23.362 24. 431 25.414 14.517 15.706 16.776 17. 741 18. 724 19.586 20.362 35.224 38. 241 40. 741 43.172 45.328 47. 414 49. 448 22.310 24.224 25.966 27.483 28.983 80.328 31.500 16.690 18.086 19.224 20.431 21.500 22.483 23.345 13.362 14. 448 15. 431 16.327 17.224 18.017 18. 741 11.000 15.200 18.000 21.000 24.000 12. 372 40.000 Spinners' earnings per hour (58-hour week). Cents. 11.972 12. 241 1L517 11.450 11.203 10.819 ILIOO 11.553 12.672 11.972 11.903 n.691 n.312 11.588 12.810 13.091 12.426 12.206 12.034 11.655 11.931 13.068 13.444 12. 724 12.655 12. 517 12. 137 12. 413 12.206 12.672 11.938 11.938 11. 731 11.312 11.731 12.776 13.091 12.460 12. 3,57 12.357 11.834 12.150 13. 194 13.510 12.879 12.776 12.672 12.150 12.569 13.614 14.033 13.333 13.298 13. 195 12.879 13. 195 12.150 12.150 12.150 12. 150 12.150 12.372 14.400 Piecers' earnings per hour (58-hoiu: week). Cents. 8.379 9.217 10. 879 11.731 12.569 13.407 13. 407 8.379 9.217 10.893 11.731 12.569 13.407 13.407 8.379 9.217 10.893 11.586 12.414 13.241 13.242 8.275 9.103 10.758 11.586 12. 413 13.241 13. 241 8.275 9.217 10.893 11.731 12.669 13. 407 13. 407 8.379 9.217 10.893 11.731 12.569 13.407 13.407 8.397 9.217 10.893 11.731 12.571 13.407 13.407 8.379 9.217 10.893 11.731 12.569 13. 407 13.407 12.150 12.150 12.150 . Total labor per houri (58- hour week). 12.150 12. 150 : 12.600 12.600 Cents. 20.352 2L458 22.396 23.181 23.772 24.226 24.607 19.932 21.890 22.860 23.634 24.260 24.719 2L190 22.309 «3.319 23.793 24.448 24.896 25.172 21.344 22.348 23.482 24.241 24.931 25.379 25.655 20.482 21.890 22.831 23.669 24.300 24.719 25.138 21.155 22.309 23.353 24.088 24.926 25.241 25.657 21.591 22.727 23.772 24.507 25.243 26.557 25.970 21.993 23.250 24.226 25.029 25.764 26.286 26.612 24.30Q 24.300 24.300 24.300 24. .300 24.972 27.000 » Does not include foremen- 784 Table 31. ning yuams BEPORT OP TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. ■Efficiency ofnmcMnery and opcrativcM x minders 3.16 6.08 5.84 & rii e no Backwash jobbcsx 6.59 6.08 EEPORT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 786 Table 32. — Comparative rates of pay in representative combing and scouring and top- making establishments in Bradford, England — Continued. Wages per week. Occupations. Firm No. 1. Finn No. 2. Firm No. 3. Firm No. 4. Day. Night. Day. Night. Day. Night. Day. Night. Ball doffers: Medium - $6.20 $6.20 6.08 5.72 Botany 6.08 6.72 Pickers Steeper and feeder $5.00 6.08 7.06 5.11 3.53 3.41 $6.08 •>•••••• Jobber and roller lapper Strippers and grinders ""5.'84" $7.06 4.38 Card feeders $6.08 ""*6.'59" $6.78 Shoddy t-akers out 1 Middle minders •• Btrong-box minders 5.S4 6.28 Repairing jobber 6.43 6.67 6.67 0.43 Combing jobber Preparing jobber Odd jobber Feeders 4.80 4.87 0.32 6.94 Minders, Noble comb •••••.•• Jobbers' assistants 6.08 6.28 6.28 6.28 5.78 6.60 Finishing jobber Noil carrier Can wheeler Cot man 1 U nderman i WOOLEN AND WORSTED SPINNERS' WAGES AT VERVIERS, BELGIUM. The woolen and worsted spinning mills of Verviers, Belgium, are operated day and night ; six day shifts and five night shifts per week. The hours on the day shift are 63 per week; on the night shift 50 hours. The day crews of one week become the night crews of the next, except for boys under 16 and women under 21 who are not permitted by law to work nights. This legal prohibition makes it necessary, of course, for such as would otherwise alternate with such boys and young women, to work nights regularly. Under normal conditions a worsted yarn mule spinner in Verviers will earn $1.35 per dav, and as he has six days' and five nights* work in two weeks his weekly earnings averaged over the two weeks would' be $7.42. He has four piecers, one of whom is considered the head piecer, but is really an assistant or second spinner, and gets 80 per cent of the spinner's wages, or $5.94 per week; three piecers each get 70 per cent, or $5.19 a week; the day alley boy would get 35 per cent, or $2.59, whUe the alley boy on the night sliift would receive 40 per cent on the spinners' earnings, or $2.97 per week. Spinners operate two mules of usually 600 spindles each. Where older and smaller mules are operated the rate per pound of product IS higher so that earnings are about equahzed. It is mutually agreed between employers and employees through their organizations that the minimum earnings for a spinner shall be $1.25 per day, and the rates on old ornew macliines are fixed to safeguard this minimum wage. Practically all spinning of worsted and woolen yarn in this locahty is mule spinning, there being very Kttle ring spinning in Verviers, and such as there is in worsted yarns is on yarns approximately our No. 23. In this locality mule spinners are always men. 786 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The occupations in all processes preparatory to spiiminff are filled by women, who are paid by the cfay. Women carders receive ordinarily 50 cents per aav; combine machine operators are paid from 52 to 63 cents, though a few get as low as 48 cents, the average being approximately 57 cents a day. Women employed at doublmg and twisting earn from 73 to 77 cents a day, For spinners of carded woolen yarn the hours of labor for the day shift are as follows: On Mondays, 8 a. m. to 12 m., 1 to 4 p. m., 4.15 to 6.30 p. m. On other week aays, 6 to 8 a. m., 8.30 to 12 m., 1 to 4 p. m., and 4.15 to 6.30 p. m. This is a total of 63 hours per week. The night shift begins work at 7 p. ni. and continues until 6 a. m., with 15 minutes' pause at 9 p. m., 30 minutes' at midnight, and 15 minutes' at 4 a. m.; but on Saturdays work begins at 7 p. m. and ends at midniglit. Hence the night shift works 5 J days, or 55 hours per week. The owners of woolen yaraspiiming establishments at Verviers have come to recognize the following minimum daily wage scale, ialthough all of them provide for a piece rate that enables the more efficient operatives to earn more than the indicated amounts. Dmly imnimwn waff en in wookn yam spinning mills at Verpiers, Belgium, Spinner operating 2 mules $a 8685 Frame spinner 8685 Spinner operating 1 mule 7720 Head piecer 7237 Head piecer on doubling and twigting framas 7720 Piecers tending about 200 spindles 6672 Doff era or bobbin boys . 3860 Card cleaners 8685 Card tenders: On 69-inch cylinder 9650 On 59-inch cylinder 8685 On 49-inch cylinder 8202 On 39-inch cylinder 7720 First breaker or blender 7720 Other breakers or blenders 7237 Packers (male) 7720 Winders and bobbin menders (female) 5790 Head charwoman 5790 Second charwoman and seamstrefls 5307 Spinner operating doubling or twisting frame 9650 liriater (male or female): On frames with 100 spindles . 5790 On framee with over 100 spindles 6755 On frames with over 150 spindles 772O Day laborers (male) of all sorts 7720 The figures already given make it evident thafc wages in the worsted industiT are higher than in the woolen industry. The follomng table indicates the rates paid the spinner in one of the lar^e worsted spinning mills of Verviers. The wages of piecers and bobbin boys are proportionate to the spinners' wages. Inas- much as the other members of the group receive a total of 329 per cent of the spinner's wage, tlie total cost for mule spinning would be 429 per cent of the indicated figures. Wlien each mule has but 540 spindles instead of 600, the rates are increased 10 per cent. For employees working only by day and not taking their turn at night work, the rate is decreased 5 per cent. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD OIJT SCHEDULE K. 787 Table 33. — Spinners^ rates for spinning worsted yam (on mules) in establishment A, at Verviers, Belgium. Count of yam. I Inter- Oft- tional count. 15 16 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 Near- est Ameri- oan. 13.29 14.18 15.06 15.95 16.85 17.72 18.61 19.49 20.38 21.26 22.15 23.05 23.92 24.80 25.70 26.58 27.47 28.35 29.24 80.12 31.01 31.90 32.78 Un- dyed me- rino, per 100 lbs. Cents. 19.3 19.3 20.1 21.0 21.9 22.8 24.5 25.4 26.3 27.6 28.9 29.8 31.5 32.4 33.3 34.6 35.9 36.8 38.1 39.4 4a3 41.6 42.9 Un- dyed me- rino (half warp) per 100 lbs. Cents. 19.3 19.3 20.1 21.0 21.9 22.8 24.5 26.4 26.3 28.0 29.3 30.6 32.0 33.3 34.6 35.9 37.2 38.5 39.8 41.1 42.5 43.8 45.1 Dyed me- rino, T>er 100 lbs. Cenis. 26.3 26.3 27.1 27.1 28.0 28.0 28.9 30.2 31.1 32.4 33.7 34.6 37.6 38.5 39.8 40.7 42.0 43.3 44.2 45.5 46.4 47.7 48.6 Un- dyed chev- iot, per 100 lbs. Cents. 19.3 19.3 20.1 21.0 21.9 29.8 30,6 32.4 33.3 34.6 35.9 38.5 40.3 41.1 42.5 43.8 44.6 46.8 47.7 49.0 50.3 51.2 53.0 Col- ored chev- iot, per loo lbs. Coimt of yam. Cents. 28.0 28.0 28.9 29.8 30.6 32.4 33.7 35.0 35.9 39.4 40.3 41.0 42.9 43.8 45.5 46.4 48.1 49.0 49.9 51.7 52.5 54.3 56.0 Inter- na- tional coimt. Near- est Ameri- can. Un- dyed me- rino, per 100 lbs. Un- dyed me- rino (half warp), per 100 lbs. 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 69 60 33.66 34.55 35.44 36.33 37.21 38.10 38.95 39.87 40.76 41.64 42.53 43.41 44.30 45.19 46.07 46.96 47.84 48.73 49.62 50.50 51.32 52.27 53.16 Cents. 43.8 44.6 46.4 47.3 48.1 49.9 50.8 51.7 53.4 64.3 55.2 56.9 57.8 68.7 60.4 61.3 62.2 63.9 64.8 65.7 67.0 68.3 74.4 CeTUs 46.4 47.7 49.0 50.3 61.7 53.0 64.3 55.6 56.9 58.2 69.7 60.8 62.2 63.5 64.8 66.1 67.4 68.7 70.0 71.3 72.7 74.0 80.1 Dyed me- rino, per 100 lbs. tJn- dyed chev- iot, per 100 lbs. Cents. 49.9 51.2 56.9 58.2 59.1 60.4 61.3 62.2 63.5 64.8 66.1 67.0 68.3 71.8 72.7 74.0 74.8 76.2 77.5 Cents. 53.8 56.0 57.8 Col- ored chev- iot, per 100 lbs. Cents. 57.8 58.7 59.5 Note.— The rate is per 100 pounds. Each mule has 600 spindles. The group for 2 mules of GOO spindles each consists of: 1 spmncr; 1 head piocer, receiving SO per cent of the spinner's wages; 3 piecers, each receiv- nt of the spinner's wagt^s; and 1 bobbin boy, receiving 39 per cent of the spinner's wages. tag 70 per cent BYEnrG ABTD FIWISHIira. The color element in woolen and worsted goods may be secured in many different ways. The principal systems are (1) dyeing in the wool, or raw material; (2) too dyeing; (3) yarn dyeing; (4) cross dyeing; (5) mixed or union ayeing; and (6) piece dyeing. Occa- sionally combinations of these may occur in the same piece of cloth. Wool dyeing is a process of coloring the loose raw material before any of the manufacturing stages except that of scouring have been- reached. It is done in open vats or in pans with perforated bottoms when done by the so-called hand process. Wool dyeing is also largely done by machinery. Top dveing, sometimes called slub dyeing, is the process of dyeing the wool in the tops or before it reaches the yarn stage of manufac- ture. In tliis way a number of colors can be most skillfully blended into the single thread of yarn, so that when woven into cloth an even mottled or mixed color can be produced with one thread and one shut- tle which it would be impossible to produce by different colored yarns. This mottled yam is used to considerable extent in the United States, but is being developed to a remarkable degree in German yarn spinning establishments and goes far to explain the cheapness and rapidity with which much of the ''novelty weave" goods can be produced there. Where yarns are spun from the natural wool — that is, no coloring material applied before the final finishing of the yarns — they are known as ''yams in the gray'' or "in the white." Goods are woven "in the 788 KEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. white," or from uncolored yams when "piece dyeing" 13 to follow the weaving process. But when the color effect or design intended for the finished goods does not permit of piece dyeing, or where a more saturated or permanent color is desired, the yarn is dyed before weav- ing and the colored threads of yam woven into the pattern or the cloth. Cross dveing is a term used when cloths are made of different mate- rials, cotton and wool, or silk and wool (or all three) when one of the materials is dyed before weaving, but with a coloring material imper- vious to that to be used for dyeing the piece as a whole. Thus silk or cotton threads, yam dyed, are woven into a piece of woolen or worsted goods, the wool being ''woven in the white." The whole is then ''piece dyed, " but only me wool fibera absorb the coloring mate- rial in the piece-dyeing process, the silk or cotton (or in some cases both silk and cotton) threads resisting the action of the wool dyes and remaining as before, thus giving two or more strains of colonng in a cut of cloth which is in reality piece dyed. This is sometimes called "resist dyeing." ^ i' ^ Ulixed or union dyeing is where the wm) is cotton and the weft or filling is of wool in some of its forms. Tne different natures of the vegetable and animal yams are such that a woven piece can be put through a color bath, the wool or animal fibers taking up practically all of the coloring materials, the vegetable fibers remammg almost untouched • the piece is then placed in another bath where the cotton or vegetable fiber is colored while the wool remains unchanged. Piece dyeing is where the goods are woven "in the gray " or "white" and the whole piece then subjected to the dyeing process. It is machine work. Where the material is dyed before the final processes of manufac- ture have been applied, a more permanent color must be ffiven, and the color must be "fast against or able to resist the ruobing and handling that come with the various stages of manufacture. Using the term "fast " in its teclmical sense of being impervious and having power of resistance, it must be apparent that when the goods are dyed in the wool the color must be "fast" to the friction and rub' bing It wiU get ia going through aU the carding, slubbing, spinning, and weaving processes; it must be "fast" to the washing, ruobing, neat- ing, steaming, pressing, and other finishing processes to which it will be subjected arter weaving or in the finishing room, and then must be fast against the action of the light and of wear and water (spotting) (perspiration) other requirements. The chemical difficulties in the way of satisfactory dyeing decrease as the final manufacturing stages are reached ; but the physical diffi- culties increase. It is more difficult for the chemist to select coloring materials that will stand all of the manufacturing processes and give eoual satisfaction in the finished product than it is to select materials wnich will serve the purpose of piece dyeing. On the other hand, it is not physically difficult to saturate the loose wool thorouglily with the color stuffs so that the wool is dved in every fiber. When the undyed wool is first woven into cloth, however, tlie difficulty is a phys- ical one as weU as a chemical one. Piece-dyed goods are rarely dyed atory kciit Hail BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUtJIlVpbla VniiJ^it^^ New York clear through, and never dyed evenly clear through. In some cases this wliite or undyed center of the fabric serves to give a "live" appearance to cloths wliich in Germany is given by dyeing the white wool a more perfect or purer wliite. But, for the most part, the fact that piece dyeing does not penetrate equally all parts of the cloth, results in the outer surface wearing off, leaving the surface gray before the cloth has had a considerable portion of the wear of which it is capable. Skill in piece dyeing, therefore, depends largely on securing the most thorough and even penetration of color possible. Time and care are elements in successful dyeing and finishing which can not be ehminated by machines. In the matter of quahty of dyestuffs, Germany takes the lead, while the matter of dyeiog speciahzation has gone further in Eng- land than elsewhere. Not only are there establishments which do only raw wool dyeing, others wliich dye only yarns, while whole groups of establishments do only piece ayeing, but even among the piece-dyeing establishments there are those that dye only Mack, others only blue, others only a shade, as "turkey red." This differ- entiation has been estabhshed for years, and generations have grown up in the dyehouses. In Germany and France dyeing and finishing are most commonly done by the same firms, and in some instances all the processes of manufacture from wool scouring to dyeing and finishing are performed under the same roof as with us. It is alleged that as an offset to the skill that comes with specializa- tion there IS a lack of interest that attaches to ownership of the mate- nal m the dyehouses of England and Europe as against the estabhsh- ment dyemg m this country. That is to say, the English dyeincr establishments do a jobbmg business; they dye goods on a contract basis, havmg no property interest in the goods themselves. The same is true of the finisliing establishments. In the United States as a rule, the dyeing and finishing is done by the firm wliich owns the material and controls all the processes of manufacture. Here the knowledge of the character of tlie material, of the kind of final finish mtended, etc., is utihzed at all stages, and dyeing is done to better purpose and with better final effect. TT • ®i P^^^^^ ^T separate dyeing and finishing establishment in the United States is at a disadvantage as compared \^ith Enc'lish and continental dyeing and finisliing plants from the fact that°so many of the great textile establishments do their own dyeing and finishing thus leaving the pubHc dyer with the product only of the smaller plants, each with its particular class of work, wliich latter in turn requu-es an equipment consistmg of a large variety of dyeing and fin- ishing machiiiery to meet the almost endless fine of goods, most of which come in smaU quantities, with the result that much valuable maclunery IS idle a large proportion of the time. In addition to the difference in wages as between this country and Europe, the distance from the mills to the dyemg and finisliing estabhshments entail heavy freight expenses and loss of time of goods in transit. Nevertheless, the independent dyemg and finishing estabhshments seem to be gl•o^vmg m favor and one of the largest separate dyeing plants in this country is being built m New England by one of the firms doing a like busmess m Bradford, England. 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 12 790 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUIiE K« WAGES m BYBINO BSTABUSHMBNTS IN ENGLAND, GKRMANT, PRANCE, BELGIUM, AND THE UNITED STATES. ENGLAND. The minimum rate of wages for raw wool dyers, top or slub, and for yam dyers in the principal wool district of England is 24 shillmgs (So. 84), 25 shillings ($6.08), and 26 shillings ($6.33) a week; J^e 25- shilling rate applies to panside men, machine men on Klauder-Weldon machines, and to the so-called "makers-up."' Time and a half rates are paid for all overtime after 7 o'clock p. m. At Halifax and Leeds the rates paid to dyers employed in dyeing and finishing concerns have hitherto been 1 shilling (24 cents) per week below the Bradford rates. The blue dyers form the only ex- ception to this general statement. For this class of work the Leeds dyers receive 24 cents each week more than those of any other locahty. At present Halifax rates are still 24 cents below, but Leeds rates more nearly approximate Bradford rates. At Huddersfield there are three distinct classes of work done, namely, raw cotton and wool dyeing, hank and skein dyeing, and piece dyeing. The recognized standard time rate for dyers ' laborers m Huddersfield, as it is now also at Bradford, is $6.33 per week of 55 hours. Until October, 1910, the standard rate was $5.84 ; one large firm paid $6.33; and one firm of silk dyers paid and still pays $6.08 for 56 hours. In July, 1911, however, the rate of $6.33 per week was adopted in accordance with the terms of a formal agreement between the Master Dyers' and Finishers' Association and the National Society of Dyers and Finishers.* A few firms in the Huddersfield district still pay less than $6.33, but the average wage for men may be safely put at $6.20. It must be observed that these particulars relate entirely to men employed in dyehouses not attached to manufacturing concerns. Where spinners or manufacturers dye their own raw materials or pieces, the conditions differ from those observed by proprietors of what are known as "countn^" dyehouses. Usually the wages are lower and the hours of labor those of the mill, i. e., 551 or 58 per week. » The foUowing b th© t«xt of the wage ftgreement mtmnd to: A§rmnent maie this October 27, WW, between the Master Duers' and Finishers' A$$ociaihn and the Va//on«l Sodetp of I^pen and Finithert in re Difers' Labwert, 1. An imntcdiftto advance to be given of Is. per week on aU wMes ond«w and including those rated at SMa. Sneii advance to be paid from the making up day nearest to Octobw 27. 2. On July 1, 19U, that standard rate of wages shall 6e a minimum wage of 2fii. per week for aUoperatlvea i. On^or*after ApS 1, and prior to Julv 1, 19U. the mm to be entitled to apply to the conciliatton com- mittee or, failing aCTeeraeet, to an arbitrator, with the ol>|ect of showing that the general standard rate in the Uuddersfteld totrict is, at the date of application, 25#. per week, and in the event of such rate being shown the standard rate of wages, at once to be advanced to a rointmum wage of 2te. per week for aU oper- 4. Ovfftim© to be paid at the rate of time and a quarter on and after the flret pay day foUowing the final acceptamce of this tgreenient, overtime to commence after a normal day has been worked. 5. AH night work to be paid at ordinary ratea for all hours of attendance at the mill, includmg U hours for meals, with 6d . anight Inadditioa. Time between Saturday 1 p. m. and 6 a. m. Monday to be at the rato of time and a half; ou&ide the ordinary hours of night work thne and a quarter to be paid. 6. A conciliation committee to be apiwinted by both aides and to consist of three representatives from each side and the secretaries for the consideration and settlement of any question arising ont of this agree- ■•Dt or between any member of the empioyers' association and his workpeople, and which can not b« iCled by the two secretaries and the parties concerned. .. ^ ,*.. _.* i. « 7. The parties agree that any quesflon of deflnttton or of Intention ansmg out of this agreemoit shall be dealt with under clause 6, or lailiiig agreenent under that elaiMe, shaJJ be left to the sote decision of Mr. O. R. Askwith, K. C, or an arbitrator appointed by him; and that he shall be sole arbitrator upon any Question arising under clause 3. . . ... ^ ».•..* ai. *i. • 8. This agreement to remain in force for 12 months from this date and thereafter subject to three months' notice on either side to be given in writing. KEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 791 The employers and the workmen through a joint agreement recognize a standard of efficiency or of output and mate it a part of such agree- ment, as follows: BOTAKY (COLOKS). The standard weight per panful shall be 125 pounds. Odd lots shall be dyed from 125 pounds to 135 pounds. Odd lots over 135 pounds shall be split into two panfuls. Odd lota in navies and dark browns shall be dyed from 125 pounds to 150 pounds per panful. Odd lots in navies and dark browns over 150 pounds shall be split into two panfuls. In lota of 1,000 pounds or over, 40 pounds additional weight may be divided into the 1,000 pounds. Should there be over 40 pounds overweight, it shall be made into another lot. BOTANY (blacks). The standard weight per panful shall be 143 pounda. Odd lota shall be dyed from 143 poiuids to 150 pounds. Odd lots over 150 pounds shall be split into two panfuls. In lots of 1,000 pounds or over, 40 pounds additional weight may be divided into the 1,000 pounds. Should there be over 40 pounds additional weight it shall be made into another lot. CROSS-BRED (COLOES). « The standard weight per panful shall be 150 pounds. Odd lots shall be dyed from 150 to 170 pounds. Odd lots over 170 pounds shall be split into two panfuls. In lots of 1,000 pounds or over, 44 pounds additional weight may be divided into the 1,000 pounds. Should there be over 44 pounds overweight, it shall be made into another lot. CROSS-BRED (bLACKS). The standard weight per panful shall be 166 pounds. Odd lots shall be dyed from 166 pounds to 170 pounds. Odd lots over 170 pounds shall be split into two panfuls. In lots of 1,000 pounds or over, 44 pounds additional weight may be divided into the 1,000 pounds. Should there bo over 44 pounds overweight, it shall be made into another lot. ENGLISH (colors AND BLACKS). The standard weight per panful shall be 250 pounds. Odd lota shall be dyed from 250 pounds to 300 pounds. Odd lots over 300 pounds shall be split into two panfuls. .^^^. ^P^ ^^ ^'^ pounds or over, 80 pounds additional weight may be divided into the 1,000 pounds. Shoidd there be over 80 pounds overweight, it shall be made into another lot. FANF17LS OF BLACKS PER DAY. In the dyeing of blacks, in Botany cross-breds, and English, the time allowed shall be at the rates of eight panfuls per day of 13 hours, the finishing to be done jointlv between the chromers and dyers. 10 minutes extra shall be allowed for everv extra turn, and for a block-up and two turns 30 minutes extra shall be allowed. MOHAIR AND MOHAIR AND WOOLS. The weight per i^auful shall not exceed 400 pounds. The standard weight to be dyed in machines shall be'as follows: Botanv, 10 pounds per stick; cross-breds, 12 pounds per stick; English, 14 pounds per stick " 792 KEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDrLE K. It was further agreed, that: For tlie purpose of defining the claaa of wool being worked, the following facts shall be observed: Wool of sixties counts and over shall be classed as botanv; wool of forties counts and below sixtiea shall be classed aa crossbreds; wool below fortiea shall be classed aa English. PIECE DYEING. Ill the piece-dyemg establishments, occupational lines were abol- ished by the agreement of 1907, amending in this particular the a<^©ement of 1899. Prior to 1907 the wage rates attached to an occu- pation, and men changing the character of their work received a dif- ferent rate of pay. By the amendment of 1907, which is stili m force, the wage rate was made applicable to classes of men, and the employ- ing firms reserved the right to employ these men at any work they saw fit, so long as they paid the rate. ^ ^^ . , ., -r^ j* i The agreement between the Dyers' Trade Unions and the Bradford %ers' Association, Limited, provides for the following classification of employees: (1) Men; (2) improvers; (3) boys. Men shall be defined as those receiving from 26 ehilHcgs to 28 shilHngs per week. improvers are those receiving from 18 shillings and under 26 shillings per week. Bovs are those receiving 10 shillings and under 18 ehilhngs per week. It is agreed that the average rate of wages of each separate group and of the whole Bhall not be reduced during the existence of this arrangement. ^ The wages of boys and improvers shall be dealt TR-ith in the following manner: Boys shall commence at 10 shillings per week; they shall be advanced 2 shillings after one year's service and 1 shilling per annum m succeeding years, but on attain- ing 18 years of age shaU receive 18 ehiUings per week «v,:iiir.a. «ftpr The wages of improvers shall be ad\'anced from 18 shillings per week 2 shillings aft^r one year^ service in this class, and 1 shilling per annum in succeeding years until they reach a wage of 26 shillings. , , Advances shall be made on the Ist day in January of each year. , . - , In all classes it is understood that the rates stated are for the branches classified as Bradford, with 1 shilUng less for Halifax and Leeds and 2 shillings less for the country branches. The rates in piece dyeing are for ordinary laborers. Leading hands, who number about one in four, receive 2 shillings per week more, exceptional hands getting, of course, a slight advance. Taking the pay rolls of all the establishments party to this agree- ment, as of January 1, 1911, we have 12 establishments in the Brad- ford district employing 2,769 persons, of whom 1,955 are classified as men i. e., receiving 26 shillings ($6.33) or more per week; 457 as improvers, i. e., receiving 18 shillings ($4,381) or more per week; and 357 boys. Table 34 shows the number in each class at each rate paid, for the Bradford district, for the Leeds and Halifax district, and for the establishments outside of those classed generally as country district.'' REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 34. — Rates paid dyehouse employes in spedjied districts in England. 798 Men. Improvers. Boys. Town or district. Num- ber. Rate in shil- lings. Ameri- can equiv- alent. Num- ber. Rate in shil- lings. Ameri- can equiv- alent. Num- ber. Rate in shil- lings. Ameri- can equiv- alent. Bradford 27 3 46 34 329 123 1,393 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 $7,786 7.542 7.30 7.06 6.82 6.57 6.33 50 69 89 54 65 63 67 25 24 23 22 21 20 18 $6,082 5.84 5.60 5.36 5.113 4.87 4.38 7 8 28 73 102 113 26 17 16 15 14 13 12 10 S4.14 3.89 3.65 3.41 3.16 2.92 2.43 Total and average 1.9o5 27.14 6.594 457 21.82 5.31 357 12.97 1 3.156 Leeds and Halifax 1 7 5 5 80 67 338 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 7.54 7.30 7.06 6.82 6.57 6.33 6.08 37 14 24 11 19 10 1 11 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 5.84 5.60 6.36 5.11 4.87 4.62 4.83 4.14 1 2 11 10 20 26 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 3.65 3.41 3.16 2.92 2.68 2.43 2.19 Total and average 503 25.6 6.23 127 21.6 5.25 70 11 12 44 25 35 17 12.2 2.97 Country 32 9 13 21 15 131 1 71 1 566 30 29 28 27 26/6 26 25/6 25 24/6 24 7.30 7.06 6.82 6.57 6.45 6.33 6.20 6.08 5.96 5.84 20 21 15 20 27 21 1 16 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 5.6i0 5.36 5.11 4.87 4.62 4.38 4.14 3.89 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 3.65 3.41 3.16 2.92 2.68 2.43 2.19 1.95 Total and average 860 24.8 6.03 141 19.9 4.84 144 12.2 2.97 From the table it will be seen that while for dyere in Bradford classified as ''men, '' i. e., all-around dyers, the range in wages is from 26 shiUmgs to 32 shillings a week, only 27 receive the highest, while 1,393 receive the lowest rate for the class, and the average for the 1,955 men is 27.14 shilHngs, or $6.59 per week. For improvers the average is 21.82 shiUings, or $5.31. Here the range is from 18 to 25 shiUings, with the number of employees pretty evenly distributed throughout the range. The average wage for the 357 boys is 12.97 slullmgs ($3.16). "^ In the Leeds and HaUfax districts only one man gets the highest rate of 31 shillings ($7.54), while 338 get the lowest— 25 shiUings ($6.08). The average for the 503 employed in the four estabhsh- ments m this group is 25.6 sliiUings, or $6.23. In the country-district group there are 8 dyeing establishments or firms, with 1,145 em- ployees. The average earnings of the 860 of those classified as men are 24.8 shiUmgs, or $6.03 per week. The working hours of dyere in England appear to be as follows: From 6 a. m. to 6 p. m. ^yq days m the week, with 2 hours out for meals and "pause^^' and 5i hours net work on Saturday, making a net working week of 55i hours. On days other than Saturday, however, the dyers may be held in the plant until 7 p. m. without extra pay; i. e., overtime rates do not begin until after 7 p. m. The overtime rate is 50 per cent advance on regular rates. flf^ HEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. CIXXTH FINISHING, HUDDERSFIELD. Closely related to dyeing is the finisliing of manufactured cloth, like dyeing, this is sometimes done by some manufacturers in their '*home'* finishing rooms, while others have no finisiiing plant and send their woven pieces to the "country" finishers to oe finished. The following are typical rates of payment in ''country" finishing concerns in the Hucldei'sfield distiict : Scourers: Weekly wages. Foreman $8. 52 Men 5. 84 Youths 3. 89 Warehouse: Foreman 6. 57 Laborers 5. 11 and $5. 35 Lads 2. 19 and 2. 92 Tenterera: Leading hand 5.84 Laborers 5. 35 Lads 2. 92 Menders, knotters, burlers : women 3. 41 to $3. 89 Waahera-off , men 5. 35 to 6. 33 Pressers, men 8. 52 to 9. 73 Cutters: Ihf en , --• 7. 79 Lads' ("tail tenders) ' 2. 19 to 2. 92 EAiflers, men 7. 30 Perchers, men 6.57 Dampers: Leading man 6. 33 Youths 3. 65 Blowers: Leading man .' 6. 81 Lads and youths 3. 65 to 4. 87 Millers: Leading man 6. 81 Laborers 5. 35 to 5. 84 DYEHOUSE CHARGES IN ENGIJLND. Prices charged cloth manufacturers hy the dyeing estahlishments may be of interest as supplementary to" the wages paid in the dye- houses. A compilation has therefore been made of prices for dyeing on a number of fabrics and in several different establishments. The rates as charged are per piece of a specified maximum length on cloths of specified width and weight. This price per length has been reduced to price per yard, and the rate stated in United States money. The other factors entering into prices charged are shown in the following tabulation of these scales. The following rates per yard are charged in an English dyeing ostab- lishment for dyeing luster and alpaca linings and Italians in 54-yard lengths of specified width and weights: Ordinary finish: 724nch black- warp luster linings (28 pounds per 54 yards) $0. 02704 72-inch cross-dye, common color f24 pounds per 54 yards) 04281 72-inch croas-dye, common color (27 pounds per 54 yards) 04844 72-inch cross-dye navy (24 poundjs per 54 yards) . 05295 72-inch cross-dye navy (27 pounds per 54 yards) 05745 72-inch black-warp alpaca linings (18 pounds per 54 yardij) 0338O 72-inch cross-dye alpaca, common color (24 pounds per 54 yards) 06646 72-inch navy (24 pounds per 54 yards) 07548 72-inch black- warp Italians, black (28 pounds per 54 yards) 02704 72-inch white- warp Italians, black (28 pounds per 54 yards) 03154 ■J BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 795 Permanent finish: 72-inch luster l in ings (all weights per 54 yards) $ 04845 72-inch black-alpaca (18 pounds per 54 yards) " " ' 05520 72-inch black- warp Italians, black (all weights per 54 yards) ......*. [ . . .' * 04844 72-inch white-warp Italians, common color (22 pounds per 54 yards)" ' " 05069 72-inch white-warp Italians, extra colors (22 pounds per 54 yards) . . ... '. 06421 72-inch white- warp Italians, fine color (22 pounds per 54 yards) '..] [ 09125 Extra charges are made for all weights above those specified: (a) Extra charges are made for permanent finish in colors. (6) Extra charges are made for stripes and checks. The following rates per yard are charged in an English dyeing estabhshment for dyeing luster and alpaca finings and vestings (for America) : ^ Luster and alpaca linings: 36-inch luster linings, black warp black (15 to 16 pounds per 54 yards) . $0. 01464 36-inch luster hmngs, cross-dye color (15 to 16 pounds per 54 yards) 02478 36-mch luster Imings, cross-dye navy (15 to 16 pounds per 54 yards) ... ." 02929 36-mch mohair linings, black warp black (15 to 16 pounds per 54 yards) 01915 36-mch mohair linings, cross-dye color (15 to 16 pounds per 54 vards) 03379 36-mch mohair Immgs, cross-dye navy (15 to 16 pounds per 54 yards) . . .' 03830 ^^filv^ ^J^^e!? ^""^ ^i^Txt' r^'^i '^^^ "^^ /^^ ^^^ '^^ y^^^« «v«' 54 yards= I0.0S12, or $0.00812 per yard, \\hite and colored stripes extra in blacks only. Vestings: 36-inch luster brilliantines, black warp black (65-yard lengths) $0 00936 o6-inch luster brilliantmes, cross-dyed common color (65-yard lengths) 01310 36-mch luster brdliantines, cros&Kiyed (65-yard lengths) ' 01685 60-inch luster brilliantines, black warp black (65-yard lengthi) ." .* 02340 bO-inch luster brilliantines, cross dved common color (65-yard lengths) .' 03088 60-incli luster brilliantmes, cross dyed (65-yard lengths) 0346'> 36-inch mohair brilliantines, black warp black (50-yard lengdis) ;;;.".'.' .* 01703 35-inch mohair bnJliantmes, cross dyed common color (50-yard lengths) . 03163 36-inch mohau- brilliantmes, cross dyed (50-yard lengths) 03893 60-mch mohair brillkntines, black warp black (50-yard lengths) ..'.'.' ' 03772 60-mch mohair bnlliantines, cross dyed common color (50-yard lengths) '. 04866 60-mch mohau- brilliantmes, cross dyed (50-yard lengths). ] 05961 The following rates per yard are charged in an EngHsh dyeing estabhshment for dyeing Botany weft cashmeres in 60-65 yard lengths of specified widths and weights: [27 to GO inches in width.] Number of pounds. 8 pounds 10 pounds 12 pounds 14 pounds 16 pounds 18 pounds 20 pounds 22 pounds 24 pounds 26 pounds 28 pounds 30 pounds 32 pounds 34 pounds [['. And $0.1218 per 2 pounds extra. Black waip black. $0.01030 .01404 .01528 .01053 .01778 .01903 .02121 .02240 .02433 . 02G20 .02808 .02994 .03182 .03309 White warp black. $0.01217 .01591 .01716 .01841 .02059 .02184 .02308 .02433 . 02620 .02808 .02994 .03182 .03369 .03550 White. Shots (per piece on color price) Extra lengths (per 10 yards or part thereof) ..'."." Cross d yes (per piece less) Mohair stripes (extra) Artifldal silk stripes (extra) '.'.'.'/.'.'.'.. RaisinR (extra) $0.01404 .0177C .01965 .02153 .02340 .02527 .02n4 .02901 .03088 .03276 .03462 .a3650 .03837 .04024 Cidors. $0.01685 .02059 .02246 .02433 .02620 .02808 .02994 .03182 .03369 .03556 .03743 .03930 .04117 .04305 $0. 2433 .0182 .1213 .2433 .2433 .6084 796 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. The following rates per jB^rd are cliarged in 'an English clyeinj establishment for dyeing lusters, siciliennes, brilliantines, cords, an( granadas of specified widtlis: Table 35. — Rat£S charged fm dyeing spceijied Mnds of cloth. Indies ia widtli. SOiBches 30 inches 31 and 32 inches 33 to 36 inches 37 to 40 inches 41 to 45 inches 46 to 50 inches 61 to 55 Inches 56 to 60 Indies Hates per yard for kinds of cloth specified. White warp luster.i White warp luster sicilicuues.i White irarp nio- liair brilliantines.* White warp mo- hair sicJlieunes.i Cream All Cream All Cream All and other and other and other white. oolora. white. colors. white. colors. $0.01318 $0.01825 .02028 .02129 .01724 .01825 $0.02231 $0.02535 $0.02677 $0.03528 .02231 .02535 .02636 .02940 .03ir.3 .04015 .02696 .02M) .02940 .03244 .036.iO .04379 .02839 .a3H3 .03447 .03751 .04015 .04745 .03042 .03650 .04379 • tr'^Wjcll .04806 .ft^aw .03447 .03954 .05231 .05839 .05474 .05%! .04055 .04461 .05961 .06569 .06901 .06569 Cre-ain and white. $0.03650 .04136 .04379 .04866 .05718 .06448 .07178 All other colors. $0.04379 .fM%6 .05353 .05961 .00448 .07543 .08516 Mohair brilliant Ines.t i Mohair slciliennes and corda.i > TiKhes in width. Common colors. Extra colors. Superior flni.Hh. Tint. Common colors. Extra ' Superior colors, j linish. Tints. 32 inches $0.02433 .02920 .02920 .03285 .03650 .04136 .04623 $0.02920 .03650 .03650 .04015 .04623 .05110 .05596 $0.02190 .02433 .02677 .03163 .03650 .04136 .040X1 $0.02433 .02677 .02920 .03406 .03893 .04379 .04866 $0.02920 .0*150 .03650 .04136 .04623 .05839 $0.a3406 .04379 .04379 .05109 .05596 .06326 .06812 $0.02677 .02920 .03163 .03649 .04136 .04623 .05109 $0.03163 .03406 .03649 .04136 .04623 .05109 .05596 33 to 36 inches 37 to 40 inches 41 to 45 inches 46 to 50 inches 51 to 55 inches M to 60 inches Mohair granadas. > > Luster brilliantines. * * Inehea In width. Common color. Extra color. Superior finish. Tint. Common colors. Navy, i Superior green, "etc. fihiKh. Tint to shades. 32 inches $0.03406 $0.03893 $0.03406 .03650 .04136 .04023 .05353 .0«»83 .06569 $0.03893 .04136 .04623 .05110 .05839 .06569 .07056 $0.01420 .01622 .01825 .02129 .03163 .03850 .04136 $0.01825 .02028 .02231 .02531 .03893 .04.179 .048ti6 SO. 01014 .01217 .01420 .01622 .02433 .02920 .03406 $0.01419 .01622 .02028 .02231 .03406 .03893 .04379 33 to 36 inches 37 to 40 inches :;:::::::::::::::::: 41 to 45 inches 46 to 50 inches SI to 55 inches 56 to 60 inches .05596 .07299 .07299 .04)560 .08272 .06372 Luster sicllienne and cords. ' » Luster granadas. J • Inches in width. Common OOltMTS. Navy, green, etc. Superior llni.<°i- Hourly overtime rate. Males. Females. $2.43 2.14 2.14 2.14 2.14 2.14 2.28 2.14 2.14 2.28 2.43 2.14 2.57 2.64 2.43 2. .36 Cents. 7.6 7.0 To— 7.1 7.1 7.9 "7.1 7.4 6.9 6.9 7.4 7.9 7.1 6.4 6.2 6.9 5.9 Cents. 7.9 8.3 7.5 7.9 7.9 9.8 9.5 8.1 9.3 9.0 8.3 From— To— Cents. 9.0 11.2 11.7 7.9 9.3 5.9 7.4 9.0 10.2 6.9 4.5 5.5 4.8 5.7 5.9 5.5 4.8 4.6 Cents, 5.5 4.8 4.5 4.3 4.8 6.2 4.8 * >■ • • 6.2 7.1 6.7 7.9 5.5 5.1 5.9 4.8 80^ MBPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE X. Tabli 40. — Wa^eifor ^ims worhm m ihe empiou of fS eatabli$hmmiM Mm%finf^ to the Samn-Thurinffimi Master Dyers' Association— Contmuad. WOOL DYKING (MALES ONI.Y). EstfflWishment No.— 1. n 4 5. i. 7. 8. 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 21 22. 23 24 25.-..?. Locality. Oefs do... do do do — do Gktieliaij. do do do do GreJz do do Meerane do Mohlsdorf Mylau Keicbenbach. do do Weida. . Gossnitz. Hoturl per Wcs0'kly wages. Hjgbeat. ml m 62 62 62 62 6S 62 m 62 62 m m m 06 63 18. 03 4.43 3.81 a. 71 414 4.28 400 423 457 400 S.75 3.78 428 400 S.43 X78 421 4 21 3.78 420 405 Lowest. 83.57 3.71 3.81 3.50 3.57 8.78 400 3.57 3.71 3.14 3.71 8.00 3.43 3.57 3.00 3.14 3.43 3.57 3.64 3.14 3.43 3.14 3.86 Hourly overtime rate. From- Cent$. 7.6 7.4 7.6 8.1 6.9 8.1 5.7 6.9 7.4 9.0 6.7 7.1 7.9 6.4 9.0 5.9 5.5 6.2 9.0 To— 8.3 8.41 8.7 8.1 9.0 9.5 8.S 8.8 8.6 9.5 8.1 10.7 10.7 6.4 0.4 7.6 7.6 7.6 9.5 FINISHING. Hourly overtime rate. SstabliBb- meot Mo.— mm* 7 § IP.. ...... 11 12 I'd ........ 14 15 16 17 IS 19 20 21 22 23 24 mHIv W • W >• W * I Locality. Gera do , . .. .do do do.... do.... Glauebau... do .... do. ...... ■• . . . * *>w^r . . . . <■ « . do Greiz do Meerane do Mobkdorf. .. Mylau do Netzsehkaii . Reiehenbach do — do Weida Gossnitz..., EEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD OH SCHEDULE K. 8oa The dyeing and finishing establishments belonging to tne above- named association of employers have a total of 7,173 operatives, of whom 4,949 are males ana 2,224 are females. Table 40 is based upon data from 1,558, or 21.7 per cent of the total number of operatives in these establishments. The table clearly indicates that wages do not vary greatly from plant to plant within the area concerned. The weekly earnings of male laborers range from $3 to $5.93; those of female o|)eratives range from $2 to $2.86. The hourly wages of males, working 62 hours per week, generally range from 5i cents (23 pfennigs) to 6.42 cents (27 pfennigs); ,w^hereas the rate per hour for females, working 58 hours per week, ranges as a rule from 3.45 cents (14i pfennigs) to 3.93 cents (16J pfennigs). Somewhat higher wages — or $4.05 (17 marks) to $5.71 (24 marks) per week — are paid oi3y to first hands and to more expe- rienced operatives. 1^ Since 1905 there has been an agreement among the members of ,the association to pay a minnnum weekly wage of $3.45 (14.49 marks) to male operatives, and of $1.90 (8 marks) to female operatives. This minimum wage, however, does not apply to employees who have been in the business less than six montns; for such operatives the minimum wage is 10 per cent less. F Note. — The wage agreement between the German Textile Workers Aseociatian and the Association of Yam Dyers and Finishers in Glauchau, Meerane, and environs, was renewed in September, 1911, with certain modifications. The principal modi- fications in the agreement are as follows: »■ The minimum wage per hour for finishers shall amount, after April 1, 1912. to 34 to 36 pfennigs; for helpers in scouring and finishing, 30^ pfennigs; for operatives in hand ayeing establishments, 32 pfennigs; for silk-dyeing operatives, 30 to 32 pfennigs; and for female operatives in all branches, 17^ pfennigs. On the 1st of October, 1911, the wages of operatives in yarn-dyeing mills were increased 2 pfennigs per hour, and on the 1st of April, 1912, they shall be increased an additional pfennig. From the 1st of January, 1912, operatives in finishing miUs or departments will receive 2 pfen- nigs more per hour, and from April 1, 1912, one pfennig more per hour. Female operatives m yam-dyeing works shall receive from the Ist of October, 1911, 1 pfennig additional per hour, and female operatives in finishing works shall receive from the Ifll of January, 1912, one pfennig more per hour. In three establishments in Reiehenbach doing both dyeing and finishing, wages were increased in August, 1911, as a result of a strike, so that employees previously receiving 2.90 marks (69 cents) per day were raised to 3.10 marks (73.8 cents); those receiving 2.80 marks (66.6 cents) were raised to 2.90 marks (69 cents); those receiving 2.65 marks (63.1 cents) were raised to 2.80 marks (66.6 cents); and those receiving 2.50 marks (59.5 cents) were raised to 2.70 marks (64.3 cents). The wages of pressers were at that time raised from 2.70 marks (64.3 cents) to 3 marks (71.4 cents), and ^heu* helpers over 18 years of age were raised from 2.65 marks (63.1 cents) to 2.80 marks (66.6 cents) per day. The daily wage of dye hands was increased from 2.65 marks (63.1 cents) per day to 2.80 marks (66.6 cents), and beginners in this branch over 18 years were raised from 2,50 marks to 2.65 marks (59.5 to 63.1 cents). Other laborera received increases either of 5 pfennigs (1.2 cents) or 10 pfennigs (2.4 cents) per day. As 214 out of 258, or nearly 81 per cent of the male employees of these three establishments, had been receiving between 2.50 marks and 2.80 marks, or betw^een 59.5 cents and 66.6 a day, this increase raised the wages of that proportion of the employees from 59.5 cents 804 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD OK SCHEDUIiB K. to 64.3 cents, and from 66.6 cents to 69 cents a day. Before the distorbanee in August, 65 per cent of the female employees in the three establishments had received 40.5 cents a day. This was in- creased to 43 cents. The working hours in the dyeing and finishing establishments of Reichenbach, m fact throughout the Gera-Greiz region, are from 6 a. m. to 7 p. m. with two hours out for meals and pauses, Saturdays from 6 a. m. to 6 p. m. with two houra off. That is, the actual work- ing houra are 1 1 houre per day for 5 days in the week, and 10 hours on Saturday, or 65 hours per week. For female oneratives the hours are from 6 a. m. to 6 p. m. with two hours ott, except Saturday, when they work from 6 a. m. to 4 p. m., with two hours off— a net working week for women of 58 hours. The wage scale for the dyeing establislmients of Elberfeld, Barmen, and Rousdorf provides that apprentices during their first year shall xecelye 8 marks ($1.90) per week; second year, 12 marks ($2.86); third year, 15 marks ($3.57). Journeymen, second hands, up to 17 years of age receive 22 marks ($5.24) per week; from 18 to 21 years of age, 24 marks ($5.71); and above 21 years of age, 26 marks ($6.19) per week. The hours of labor are 56 per week. The wage scale for Crefelds dyeing and finishing establishments provides : Dally. Weekly. Apprentioes: First year Secon'd year Third year Female apprentices: First year Second year Third year Pemales under 19 years . Females above 19 years . Journeymen: Under 19 Under 21 Under 24 Skilled dyers: From 17 to 18 years.. From 18 to 19 years.. From 19 to 20 years.. From 20 to 21 years.. From 21 to 23 years.. From 23 to 25 years., Above 25 years Second hands: First year Second year MarJu. 1.00 ($0,238) 1.50 ($0,357) 2. 16 (la 514) .83 ($0,198) 1.33 (W. 317; 1.83 ($0,436 2. 16 ($0,514 2. 50 ($0. 595] 3. 00 (iO. 735) 3.50($0.8;J3) 3.91 ($0,931) 3. 33 ($0,793] 3.50 ($0,833 3. a3 ($0,912 4. 00 ($0,932] 4. 16 ($0,990) 4.33 ($1,030) 4. 66 ($1,109) 3. 00 ($0,714) 3. 33 ($0. 793) MutJu. 6.00 ($1.43) 9. 00 ($2. 14) 13. 00 ($3. 09) 5.00 ($1.19) 8.00 ($1.90) 11. 00 ($2. 62) 13. 00 ($3. 09) 15. 00 ($3. 57) 18. 50 ($4. 40) 21.60 ($.5.00) 24. 00 ($5. 71) 20. 00 ($4. 76) 21.00 ($5.00) 23. 00 ($5. 47) 24. 00 ($5. 71) 25. 00 ($5. 95) 26. 00 ($6. 19) 28.00 ($6.66) 18. 00 (14. 28) 20. 00 ($4. 76) Xight work. 2 marks (SO.470) more per week on all grades. Overtime work: Skilled dyers, 60 pfennigs pi^r hour; journeymen, 50 pfennigs; apprentices, 30 pfennigs; female apprentices, 25 pfennigs; girls, 35 pfennigs. Sunday work, 10 pfennigs more than scale for other overtiJi«s. Daily hours, 10. Females under 19 receive 2.16 marks (10.514) per day, or 13 marks ($3.09) per week; over 19 years of age, 2.50 marks per day, or 15 marks ($3.57) per week. First-year male apprentices receive 1 mark a day, 6 marks ($1.43) per week; second-year receive 9 marks ($2.14) per week, and third-year 13 marks ($3.09) per week. Female appren- tices, first 3'ear, receive 5 marks a week ($1.19); second year 8 marks ($1.90), and third j'ear 11 marks ($2.62) a week. BEPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUI/E K. DYEING AND FINISHING IN AUSTRIA. 805 \ In Austria, as elsewhere in Europe, the dyeing of wool, yams, and cloths is done mostly in dyeing and finishing establishments, although some cloth-producing plants have their own dyehouses. The rates of wages given below for dyeliouse labor are for both kinds of estab- lishments and include (a) 13 cloth establishments which do their own dyeing, (h) a combination of 7 dyeing establishments, (c) a larger combination of dyeing establishments, of which the 13 included here dye wool or woolen yarns and cloth, and (d) the Association of Aus- trian Silk Dyers. None of these 4 groups can be considered as typical in the matter of rates paid, their rates differing too widely, and their reports not showing distinct and separate dyehouse occu- pations. In the 13 cloth-producing establishments which do their own dyeing, the rates of pay for dyers and dyers' helpers range from 45 cents to 49 cents per day. A few establishments paid a rate as high as 60 cents per day, and one paid a rate as low as 43 cents per day, but those rates are for individual persons and no doubt for particu- lar reasons. These dyers and dyers' helpers are not the chemists or color mixers whose knowledge must be technical, but rather the manual workers at the vats who combine with their physical labor a certain degree of skill in handling, and of knowledge of just how the dye is takmg effect and what subsequent treatment the dyed wool, or yam, or cloth must undergo. It is in this sense also that the term "dyer" is used throughout in connection with the rates of jpay. In the second group, comprising the seven separate dyeing estab- lisliments, the lowest pay for dyers during the first half year of their employment is fixed at $3.45 per week, or about 57 cents per day. In the second half year of their employment their lowest pay is fixed at $3.65 per week, or 61 cents per day, and after one and a half years at $3.86 per week, or 64 cents per day. Working up through the same terms of employment, females begin at $1.83 per week, or 30 cents per day, and reach at length $2.23 per week, or 37 cents per day. The third and fourth groups mentioned above are more nearly alike in the rates paid and in their division of the dyers and theu' helpers into wage groups. Both groups of estabUshnients fix $4.67 per week, or 78 cents per day, as the lowest amount that may be paid to skilled dyers cluring the first year after the completion of their apprenticeship, and $5.08 and $5.48 per week, or 85 cents and 91 cents per day, respectively, as the lowest rate for them during the second year after finishing their apprenticeship. Independent dyers over 21 years old, whose quahfication as dyers and whose being employed as such are certified to by the establishment employing them, receive from $5.48 per week to $5.89 per week as a lowest wage rate. To dyers who change from cotton to silk, or silk to wool, or cotton to wool dyeing, these two groups of establishments pay from $4.87 to $5.48 per week, making the mcrease in rate effective after the third month's emplo3rment in the new kind of dyeing. Both groups distinguish between the dyers and helpers at the dye vats, and pay the latter $4.26 or $4.47 per week. The number of dye-vat nelpers is restricted in these two groups of establishments to from 20 per cent to 25 per cent of the number of experienced dyers, and if that percentage is exceeded they must pay the dye-vat helpers the 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 13 806 REPOET OF TABIFF BOABD OF SCHEDFU: K. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 807 lowest rate paid to the experienced djers. Females after one and a half years* experience are paid $2.44, and after three yeare $2.64 or S2.84 per week, or 47 cents per day. Eates paid for tlie various occiipations in the finisliing rooms in Austria have been tabulated and are presented below in Table 41. The 13 establishments reporting rates for burlers showed that the average rate for burlera was about 31 cents per day. Several estab- lishments paid burlers upon the basis of from 4.1 cents to 9.1 cents per cut of different lengtns, and fixed a limit of $2.03 per week as a guaranteed lowest wage for the burler. All burlers were females. The menders' rates for time work averaged somewhat higher, about 38 cents per day, and with these are includeil the piece-rate burlers who work under a guaranteed minimal pay. In the finishing department the cloth washei-s were males, their reported rates averagmg 46.3 cents per day. The lowest rate paid for this work was 39 cents per dav, and the highest was 52 cents. Ooth driers, cloth carriers, gig tenders, fullers, felters, and cloth dressers — all males — were paid about the same rates as cloth washers; if anything a little less than cloth dressers. Press tenders' wages were higher, averaging about 50 cents per day. The shearing-machine tenders' rates of pay, as reported for 13 establishments, ranged from 26 cents per day to 37 cents per day. Nine of the 13 establishments employed females at the shearing machines, and in this occupation at least the males had no advantage in the matter of wage rates. Table 41. — Ratal of pay for occujmtionB in the finishvig deparlmentM of Austrian estah^ lishments. . Table 41. — EaUs offcqffor occupations in the Jinishing departmaits of Austrian establishments — Continued. Estab- Rates of pay. list- Occupation, rank, and cxperienra of employees, or ment Mnd of work for which they were pidd. Sex. No. Unit of pay. Rate per unit. 12 Biirters. " Females . ...do Per day Pwcut Per day do.. do .1& 10.34 IS do .(Ml 14 do ...do. .34 15 do . ..do .34 16 .do .. .do 3 to .34 17 do . .do do /Per cut \Perday .■08J .33 10 do ...do I to .091 .34 20 do -. . . .do do Per cut .06] .34 21 Burlera on finished cloth ...do Lto .071 JBurters . . .do.... . . Per day Per 109 yards. .233 23 'iBurlers on llnisiied goods ...do .061 M Burlers ...do Per day .31 to .33 IT do ...do do .26 .33 to .37 28 do ...do , .do .33 10 Menders, skiUed ...do do to .47 11 Menders ...do do .25 12 do do do .30 13 Menders working on piece rate, but giiaranteeti 10.3© ...do Per cut .061 per day. .— ■ 14 Menders . . .do Per day Per cut .43 16 Menders working on piece rate, but guaranteed 10.24 ...do .057 per day. 17 Menders working on piece rate, but guaranteed 90.37 per day. . ..do do .061 19 Menders working on piece rate, but guaranteed fO.39 per day. ...do do .061 90' Menders working on piece rate, but guaranteed 10.37 to $0.41 per day. ...do .do .Ml 31 Menders working on piflce rate, but guaranteed SO^ per day. ...do do .m fMenders on summer eoods . . .do do .SI 22 \Menders on winter goods ...do do .41 23 Menders working on piece rate, but guaranteed 10.41 per day. ...do do .03 27 Menders . . .do Per day do .51 10 Cloth carriers Mates .45 13 do ; ...do • . . . • Uv. ....... .45 Estab- Mi- Occupation, rank, and experience of employees, or kind of work for which they were paid. Sex. Rates of pay. mont No. Unit of pay. Rate per unit. 10 Cloth washers Males ...do Per day do SO. 49 12 do .39 to .50 13 11 do do ...do ...do do do .45 .43 to .52 15 do . ..do do .47 IG do ...do do do.... . .45 to . 51 17 ..do ...do. .47 19 20 do do — do ...do do do .45 .45 21 do . ..do..... - do do do do do do .47 10 12 1 ; ig tenders .....do ...do ...do .42to .49 . 39 to .50 13 do . ..do...... .61 14 IG do - - do ...do...... ...do .38 to .57 .49 19 do ...do do .49 20 do ...do do -61 21 . ...do ...do do .47 10 Fullers ...do do .47 to .53 12 do ...do do do do... .39tO .50 13 do . ..do .45 17 do ...do .47 27 do ...do do do .4310 .53 12 Felters ...do .43 to .45 10 13 Cloth driers do ...do ...do do do .47 .45 17 do ...do do .47 to .49 24 do ...do do do .47 27 do ...do .43 24 23 Cloth drier's helpers Cloth dre&sers, skilled fS hearing-machine tenders, beginners -..do ...do Females.. ...do do do do . ..do ... .31 .45 to .47 .33 10 iSheartnir-machino tenders, skilled .37 11 ShearLng-macbine tenders Mfdes Females.. ...do do do do.. .35 to .37 12 do .36 13 do .37 14 16 do do Males Females.. . ..do... do do do .37 • 37 17 do V IS do . ..do do.... . .37 19 /Shearing-machine tenders, bekginners \Shearing-machine tenders, skilled ...do ...do do do do .33 .37 20 Shearing-machine tenders ...do .37 23 do ...do do .37 25 do Males ...do do do do .^to .35 27 do .26 to .37 11 Press tenders ...do .47 to .51 12 do ...do do .4910 .64 /Press tenders, roller press ...do do .45 13 14 15 \Pres8 tenders, sorew press Press tenders do ...do ...do ...do do.: do do .51 .49 .47 19 do ...do do do .49 20 do ...do .51 f Press tenders, vouncer workers ..do.. do . .45 to -61 27 \ Press tenders, older workers , ...do do .50to .54 DYEING AND FIXISHIXG IN FRANCE. Wage scales were secured for a number of dyeing and finishing plants in Roubaix, France. Some of these wage scales go into great detail as to occupations and rates, while others give only the principal occupations. It was found possible to tabulate the principal occupa- tions and group the hourly rates of pay by giving the liighest and lowest rate for each. Tliis has been aone in preference to reproduc- ing translations of the detailed scales. Table 42 gives the lowest and highest hourly rate provided for by any scale secured in the occupation named. k 808 KEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDULE K. 809 The occupations are arranged alphabetically rather than by dyeing and finishing departments, but one at all familiar vnth the mdustry will perhaps be better able to locate the desired occupation in that way: Table 42. — Occupations and rates in dtfeing and JinuMng estahlishmenta in RouhaiXf France. Occupatiott. Bale carriers. Beellers Brushers Bimdlers Calenderers Card inserters Card removors Cloth carriers Color mixers Crabhers Dividers Dryers fcloth) Dryers (wool) Dj^rs.. Dye testers Dye- vat hands Embroiderers Filers Folders- Fullers Crassers Glaiers Hydro-«xtiactors Inspectors KJer hands I^abelers Mangle machine opera dves. Meroerizers Nappers Rates per hoar. Prom. To. 10.0724 • 0830 .0405 .0772 .0820 .0820 .0772 .0579 . 0676 .057» .0724 .0791 .0579 .0627 .0405 .0772 .0772 .0869 . 0772 .0733 SO. 0772 .0869 .0820 .0643 .0714 .0869 .0Ht»9 .0801 .1340 .0917 .0869 .0772 .1340 .0772 .0772 .0820 .0820 . 0840 . 0S(i9 .0579 .0820 .0017 .0849 .0907 .0897 .0946 .0'772 Occupation. Rates per hour. From. Perchers ' . . . Piece arranfiers Piece carriers 10.0724 Piece markers Pressers .0676 Press-board carriers • 0820 Prcss-lward iiia^rters Press- board removers .0724 Press setters Printing machine operatives.. Packers Scalers Scourers .0724 Sewers .0762 Shearers .a540 Singers Sizers , .0724 .0724 Soapers Sorters Speakers .0733 Stampers Tenterers Unfolders .0654 .0772 .0676* Unrollers Warehousemen Weighers Winders Whizzers Wrappers .0772 .0869 To. 10.0869 .0869 • 0801 • Uouv .0917 • 0840 .0791 .0772 .0917 .0620 .0724 .0820 .0869 .0917 .0897 .0917 .0869 .0772 . 0772 .0917 .0897 .0917 .0849 .0772 .0869 .0869 .0772 .0849 .0917 WOOL DYERS' WAGES, VERVIERS, BELGIUM. The preYailing wage scale for wool dyers in Yeniers, Belgium, was obtained, and is here presented. Occn nation. Dve hands Whizzers Washing-machine hands. . Weighers Felting-machine hands Driers Bo Wage Wage per hour. per day. 10.0579 to. 71 .0598 .73 .0598 .73 .0675 .82 .0598 .73 .0579 .71 .0598 .74 It will be noted that two different rates are given for driers — the lower rat© being for those who do not turn out more tlian 800 kilos per day; the higher rate being paid to those who do turn out more than 800 kilos (1,7G4 pounds, per day. The duration of the working day for dyers is from 6 a. m. to 7 p. m., except than on Monday work begms at 7 a. m. The day's wage is as a rule 12 times the rate per hour. This system of payment at the rate of one- twelfth of the daily wage for every hour worked is by no means general in other branches of the industry and is applied in this 1 particular case as the result of a demand of the operatives in this particular branch. Operatives may taie 30 minutes' at 8 a. ra., 1 hour at noon, and 15 minutes at 4 o'clock. The rest periods in the morning and in the afternoon shall not commence later than 8.15 a. m. and 4.15 p. m., but may otherwise be shifted according to the requirements of the work. The above pauses will be seen to amount to 1 hour and 45 minutes. That is to say, the normal working day amounts to 11 J hours. If the employer Keeps the operatives at work during the mid- day pause, he pays their wages for the entire period of the pause, even though they work only a portion of it. i Extra hours or work shall be paid at a rate 50 per cent higher than the ordinary rate. Should one operative replace another who is to blame for his absence, the 50 per cent increase in the rate shall be taken from the wage of the absent employee. An operative called upon to perform other work than that which he usually performs shall be paid according to the rat^ paid the worker whose place ho takes, except that the wage shall not be modified in case of employ- ment for less than one-half day. Whatever may be the wage, it shall not be reduced. These rates apply only to trained or sKilled workers, not to temporary employees or apprentices. Operatives who work at night shall have a rest period of 15 minutes at 9 o'clock, with 30 minutes at 12 o'clock and 15 minutes at 3 o'clock. Every half hour of work, or part thereof, shall be paid for as though the half hour had been completed. The above agreement has not been modified since the time of its adoption; it is, therefore, still in force. Piece dyers have no wage scale. Their wage per hour varies between 5.2 and 5.8 cents. The dyers of worsted yam receive from 6.2 to 6.8 cents per hour. The employees of the dyer establish- ments and dyeing departments of Verviers number about 500. ' DYEING AND FINISHING ESTABLISHMENTS IN THE UNITED STATES. For the most part dyeing and finishing is done by worsted and woolen establishments for themselves. The separate, independent, or public dyeing and finishing establishment is rather exceptional in the United States. There are a few in Philadelphia, where the following rates obtain quite generally in yarn and wool dyeing establishments. The rates in this table are fairly comparable with those of the foreign countries cited, where separate establishments are the rule. The question of rates of pay by sex will be discussed later. 810 SEPOKT OF TABIPP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TABIPP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 811 Table iS.—ffours and raiea per hour for dyers in nmnufacturing and jobbing estahluk- /' Philadelphia, Pa. Establisteient nonilwr. Manufact tiring. Jobbing. Hours per week. Bate per hour. Hours Rate per week, per hour. 1 2 3 '." 54 64 57 57 67 58 58 60 60 60 57 67 m 60 55 65 10.25 .25 .228 .228 .228 .172-. 224 .20 .20 .20 .20 .228 .228 .20 .20 .182 55 60 58 60 60 60 60 60 60 60 58 60 58 60 GO JO. 213 .20 4 .218 5... .217 6 ■ / s.. * .217 .217 .20 9 10 ; 11 12 13 ■ .217 .20 .20 .224 .217 14., ■ - .224 15 .20 16 .217 — . .22 (« .20 Table 44 which is a condensation of tho general wage tables to be found elsewhere in this report, gives the ranges in hourly rates of pay for the plants from which pay-roU data were secured in ine united btates. The table gives rates of wages, by sex and by occupations, so far as occupations were designated : Table 44.— Number of male and female employees in finishing and dyeing departments of woolen or worsted establishments in the tlnUed Btate^ rLiving^peliMr^ wages per hour, by occupation. "^ ^ -^ •' in ALi?. • NumTier of employees receiving each specifle- | ber I Folders [ Measurers ' Menders Nappers 1 Examiners 2 ,j I'ressers Scourers | Shearers I Fullers i United States. 1 Establishment I. Establislunent U. Establishment I. Range in hourly rates— Kangein i Range in liourly rates— ^ hourly rates- From— To — From— To— From— To— England. Estabiisbment II. Establishment III. 80.167 .109 .092 .1750 . 1917 .1667 .1417 1750 1543 .21t»7 .1833 .1833 .1760 .2063 .2063 .1500 .2333 .200 .1060 .1667 10.20 .192 .10 J667 1830 10.0621 .0911 .0504 .0521 .1129 10.1302 .irjS9 .1129 .1302 Range in hourly rates— From— To— 10.11.30 ISO. 1173 t«0.0860 .1130 Range in hourly rates- From- To — 10.1130 .1217 .1420 .18a3 .1333 .1667 .1833 .1833 I xuw . v«ov .30 .05t>4 (KW .0521 1667 .0607 \m^ .0998 250 .1041 200 . 05(54 2167 .1129 200 . 1041 2167 Occupation. France. Establishment I. Range in hourly rates- Establishment III. Range in hourly ratea— Range in hourly rates- Range in hourly Range in hourly rates — rates— From- J-rom — To— From— To — iFrom — I To — Dyeing department: Dyers Dryers » Stitchers Tenterers Finishing depart- ment: Brushers Crabbers Folders Measurers Menders Nappers Examiners a Pressers Soourers Shearers Fullers 10.0724 .0724 .0772 .0724 .0772 f6.6e26 .0820 .0820 .0917 ".'0826' .0772 .0917 .0917 .0772 .0917 J0.0820 $0.1013 .0772 I .0840 .0762 .0645 .0627 ^0762' .0753 .*0676" .0724 .0540 .0405 .0800 .0820 .0830 • • • • • ■ ■ .0840 .0772 ".mi' .0820 .0724 .0840 10.0772 .0800 •0.0917 .0965 .0772 .0917 .0820 .0917 .OSGO .0917 .0772 .0897 .0965 .0669 .0897 .0620 10.0548 <.06O8 F*iom — SO. 0794 $0.0305 <.1640 .0305 To — 50.0980 .0487 &. 04(;0 .0549 <. 06.12 ".mi .0641 1 .0848 ".6i62' .0392 .1080 'mio .0944 .0447 .0392 .0264 .0392 .0508 .056S .0644 .0513 .C137I .0.528 Threw a dryers mto dyeing department. . I hrew all exammew and overlookers into flni-^hine deoartmpnt » Cnmroits<^hau district, except as noted--" "" and - l^P^""^^^ * (Jera district. ' - ^ LucJienwalde. EEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 813 COMPARATIVE WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR; VARIOUS OCCUPATIONS. Wage data were secured for a large number of occupations from the various countries visited, in connection with the manufacture of woolen and worsted goods. A mass of such wage data secured from various German sources has not been used for lack of time. Such material as was secured directly and at first hand by the agents of the Tariff Board has been used. Below is presented tliis miscellaneous wage material, first for Eng- land, in which case time was had to make comparison of rates of pay in specific occupations. The difficulty of identifying occupational names in foreign mills with the same work here is not so great in the case of England as on the Continent, hence a comparative presentation could be more quickly made. In cases where occupations could not be identified with a corresponding one here, they were, of course, necessarily thrown out. This material is presented in the following order: England, Ger- manv, and Austria. ENGLAND. VARIATIONS IN EARNINGS BY DISTRICTS IN THE WEST RIDING OF YORK- SHIRE, WITH A COMPARISON OF EARNINGS IN THREE DISTRICTS IN THE UNITED STATES. The agents of the Tariff Board made a special investigation of the earnings and occupations of employees in the woolen and worsted industry in the West Kiding of Yorkshire, England. Seventy-two fer cent of all persons in the industry are employed in this district, ts chief centers in the West Riding of Yorkshire are Huddersfield (including the Colne and Holme Valleys) , Bradford, Leeds, Dewsbury and Batley. Halifax and Keigliley. The Huddersfield district mainly produces fancy worsted coatings of the finest quality, and low woolens. At Bradford wool sorting, combing, and worsted spinning are largely carried on as separate industries and worsted yams are sold there for use at all the other centers of the trade. Bradford is also a large center for the production of alpacas and womens' dress goods. Fancy worsteds for men's wear are also pro- duced there. At Leeds every qualitj^ from fine cloths to low woolens are made. The heavy woolen district of Dewsbury and Batley is a rag center, and rag wool pulled at Dewsbury finds its way into every concern in the West Riding where low woolens are made. It also makes pilots,* beavers, and blankets, and in recent years it has entered in1?o the production of low woolen costume cloths and men's suitings with great and growing success. Some worsted and fine and fancy woolen and army cloths are s^so produced. Halifax and Keighley make a class of goods similar to those manufactured at Bradford. The different branches of the industry and the variations in the same branches make it difficult to arrive at reliable general averages. This condition of affairs also in part explains the difference of wages found when one district is compared with another. In weaving, for example, the Huddersfield standard loom is a box loom running normally at 80 or 100 picks per minute, the latter speed an intro- duction of the past 10 years or so. Of these looms one operative I'' 814 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABD OKT SCHEDUIiE K. can tend only one. At Bradford in the plain trade the looms are narrower, or 45 to 54 inches in width, the work is woven with one shuttle and the operative tends two looms. On Bradford fancy, coatings the loom is wide, there are more shuttles used, and the oper- atives tend only one loom. The same remarks apply to Hahfax and Keighley, while at Leeds there is little, if any, two-loom weaving, and one loom per weaver is also the rule in the heavy woolen district. It is necessary, therefore, to exercise great care in compaiing the earnings of weavers in one district with those in another. The data have been secured from the pay records of representative mills and have been compared with the published returns of the British Board of Trade. (The British Board of Trade returns, showing earnings and occupations for the entire industry in the United Kingdom, including the West Riding of Yorkshire, are piinted elsewhere in this report.) The woolen and worsted industry lacks the standardization which is found in the Lancashire cotton industry. There is no general organization among the operatives and conseauently no wage agree- ments providing for a uniform payment for the same kind of work. As a result earnings within the same branch of the industry vary because of the absence of a common rate of pay for the same class of work. The piece and time rates vary from mill to mill even among those the products of which are identical. In some localities, as in the Iluddersfield district, men are paid a higher rate than women, although both are doing the same kind of work. BARNINaS IN THE DIFPBREMT DiaTRICTS. To illustrate these points the following tabulation of the approxi- mate average earnings in a normal week in each district is shown: Worsted weavers. Districts. Woolen weavers n ioom i. 1 loom. 2 looms. Men. Women. Glrk. Men. Women. Girls. Men. Women. Girls. TTiidclf^rsfinld t6.68 14.86 3.89 3.80 3.89 3.65 3.49 3.16 S6.50 5.47 '*'4.'98' fi.96 3.80 3.89 K A1 t2.02 Leeds..., ' Bradford ' 3.28 3.55 '*$5*ii' 13.52 $2.80 Halifax 3.41 3.53 2.56 2.68 3.52 Keietilev 3.05 3.04 At Halifax there is some two-loom weaving on plain woolens and thp earnings are practically the same as those on fancy woolens with one loom only. In the heavy woolen district weavers earn similar wages on woolens and worsteds. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD OlS SCHEDULE K. 815 EARNINGS ACCOBDIMO TO PBIMCIPAL DIVISIONS OF THE IXDUSTKT. WOOL SORTING. The earnings of the operatives may be best presented according to the principal divisions of the industrj^. Wool sorting, the initial process of manufacture, is Usually done in Bradford. Both time- work and piecework are prevalent methods of payment, and there is practically no difference in the weekly earnings, the two methods being adjusted so as to yield practically the same returns. The almost universal superiority of pieceworkers' earnings over those of time-workers in the same occupation holds good here, but not to any great extent. The average weekly earnings are : Bradford. — Wool sorters: Time-work, $8,28 per week; piecework, $8.52 per week. The trade-union standard time rate is 8d. ($0.16) per hour for 50 hours, or $8.11 per week, in sorting shops, and $8.03 per week for 55 i hours in mills. With wool sorters there is a considerable amount of lost time. The earnings are probably higher in a normal week than those of other operatives of similar grade of skill in the worsted industry, because of the uncertainty attaching to their employment. Under active industrial conditions, for the whole year of 50 nominal working weelis, wool sorters will probably not average more than $7.29 to $7.53 per week. During some years the loss will be more and the average 10 to 1 5 per cent lower. Sorters working in mills do not suffer so much from lost time as do those in separate sorting establishments, and as a consequence, while the wage for a normal week is about the same, the hours worked in mills are longer and the earnings in a year are higher. WOOL COMBIXG, BRADFORD. Bradford is the chief center for wool combing, and, as in the case of sorting, only a small amount is done at other places, except in the few mills which carry on all processes of manufacture. The work is carried on by day and night, women tending the combs by day and men operating them by mglit. The rates or pay vary, but the fol- lowing may be taken as representative of the average weekly earn- ings in the principal occupations of this branch of the industry: Men day workers: Earnings per week. Grinders $7. 06 Wool runners, laborers, etc 4. 14 Bowl minders (scouring machine teiidere) - - 6. 08 Feeders 6-60 Warehousemen 6. 08 Men night workers: Comb minders (comb tenders) 6. 33 Backwaehera (backwash tenders) 6. 08 Box minders (gill box tenders) 5. 84 Jobbers (oiler and machine fixer) 6. 08 Feeders 5. 84 Runners 6-84 Women day workers: Comb minders (comb tenders) 3. 41-3. 65 Backwashers fbackwash tenders) 3. 41 Box minders (gill box tenders) 3. 16 t ) f 1^1 POET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDtJLE K. 816 ^ Tlie Wool-combers Union is now attempting to secure the adop- tion of a minimum wage of $6.08 for night work. In some spinning mills, where the firms do their own combing, men comb tenders are employed by day and no night work is done. In such cases the wages are lower, the difference being caused, as in the case of wool-sorters, bv the more regular working in mills than in combmg sheds. The annual earnings are probably not very dissimilar. WORSTED SPINNING, BBADFORD. Unlike wool sorting and wool combing, there is not in worsted spin- ning any great difference between the rates of wages paid in mills spinning yarn for sale and in those spinning for their own consump- tion. The work is almost invariably time-work, and very few adult males are emploved. Cliildren largely enter the mills as *' half- timers, " that is, they work for not more than 30 hours per week in the mill, and attend school for one-half of each day. On commencing miU hfe, children start as *'doffers," or, in other words, they take the full bobbins off the spinning frame and put the empty ones in their place. As they grow older, they go to spinning ana then to drawing. There are no recognized rates fqr these occu- pations and the averages, per week, for the Bradford district are approximately as follows: Half-timers $0. 85 Doffers, children, full-timere 1. 46 Spinners: Girls 2.43 Women 2. 68 Lads : 2. 43 Drawers: Girls 2. 68 Women 3. 16 The ''spinners" here referred to are frame or ring spinners and the ''drawers^' are called ** drawing frame tenders" in mills in the United States. Tliere is, however, a great range, not only from mill to mill, but in- side any one single mill. Thus, at one large firm, the drawers receive $2.80 per week and the spinners receive: For minding— 1 eide of 110 spindles |2. 19 2 sides of 130 spindles 2. 31 2 sides of 168 epindles 2. 43 2 sides of 220 spindles 2. 55 3 sides of 194 gpindles 2. 61 3 sides of 252 spindles 2. 80 3 sides of 330 spindles 3. 04 At another large firm the spinners tend 4 sides of 72 spindles each, for a weekly wage of $3.16. At a third firm they receive for three sides of 72 spindles each $2.92, and for 4 sides of 54 spindles each $3.16. As a general rule, however, spinners do not tend more than two sides. In each of these cases the drawers receive about $0,243 per week more than the average spinner. Doublers (testing frame tenders in United States mills) receive about the same as drawers, the averages for the Bradford mills being: For women time-workers $2.80 weekly and for pieceworkers $3.28. EEPORT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 817 Girl doublers, working on a time basis, are paid a weeMy wage of $2.55. Piecework is much more prevalent in doubling than in spinning. FOREMEN OR OVERLOOKEIIS. The wages of overlookers in the Bradford district are subject to wide variations, and approximately average for the different depart- ments as follows: Foremen: , Weekly earnings. Sorting department $8. 27 Combing department 8. 27-8. 76 Spinning department 7. 67 Doubling department 8. 03 Weaving department 8. 52-8. 76 In some mills the foremen in charge of the weaving department also receive a bonus on the production of the looms in excess of a speci- fied amount. WEAVING AXD ALLIED OCCUPATIONS, BRADFORD. In the other departments of the worsted goods manufacturing industry the following, are representative weekly- wage averages : Men: Warp dressers, piecework $8. 27 Twisters-in, piecework 7. 79 Warehousemen, time-work. 5. 96 Weavers (worsted coating), piecework ^ 4. 99 Women: Reelers, time-work $3. 04 Reelers, piecework 3. 65 Winders, time-work ." 2. 80 Winders, piecework 2. 92 Warpers, time-work 3. 41 Warpers, piecework 3. 77 Weavers, worsted, 1 loom, piecework 3. 28 Weavers, worsted, 2 looms, piecework 3. 53 Weavers, woolen, piecework 3. 89 Burlers and knotters, time-work 3. 53 Burlers and knotters, piecework : 3. 53 Menders and fine drawers, time-work 3. 65 Menders and fine drawera, piecework 3. 77 Girls * Winders 2. 31 Weavers, worsted, 1 loom 2. 55 Weavers, worsted, 2 looms 2. 68 Burlers and knotters 2. 07 Half-time assistants 91- 97 Averages for weaving, however, as already pointed out, are very unrehable, owing to the great diversity of rates paid and goods woven. Thus, at one mill making mohairs and dress goods the range of weekly earnings per weaver (women) is $3.65 to $3.89. At another, making fancy waistcoating and light fancy coatings, the weekly average is about $5.23, the women earning about $4.87 and the men, of whom only a few are employed, about $5.59. There are very few men weavers in Bradford. At a mill making alpacas, the average weekly wage is about $3.89. 1 Very few men weavers are employed. There is a small group of expert pattern weavers on hand looms, earning $5.36 to 17.08 a week and averaging about $6.33 a week for time-work. , I \4 818 KBPOKT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUU: K. WAGES FOB A XORMAL WEEK's WORK. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 819 Huddtrsjitld district. Men: Foreman — Scribblinnf (carding) Mule spinning Weaving Wool sorters Wool washers Fettlers, time (card strippers) Spinnera — Time Piece Piecere — ^ Daytime Night workers Bcribblera' leedexB (card feeders) — Day Night Warpers Beamers Twisters-in , Pattern weavers — Time Piece •. Weavers — Woolen Worsted Low worsted weavers Dyere Fullers Dressers — Time Piece Warehouseman Lade and boys: Big piecers Little piecers Twisters-in Worsted spinnera Worsted dfoffers Women: Scribblers' (card) feeders — 2 machines 3 machines Combers Finishers (combing), (finishing gill-box tenders) Drawers (drawing-frame tenders) Worsted spinners Wool spinners' piecers Women : Twisters or doublere— Time jriece.»» ........................................ Reelers — Time Piece Winders — Time Piece Warpers — Time Piece Weavers — Woolen Worsted "Low worsted weavera" $10. 95 9.00 8.52 . 6.93 5.60 6. 52-fi. 18 6.33 7.79 5.12 5.84 5.12 5. 84-6. 33 7.30 6.45 6.69 6.95 7.79 6.69 6.93 6.33 5. 88 5.72-^.08 3. 84-6. 33 7. 06-7. 30 6.33 3.65 3.65 2.19 L70 3.65 4.38 2.80 2.68 2.68 2.25 3.16 2.68 4.14 2.92 3.65 2.92 3.53 401 4.50 4.86 4,86 4.26 Women— Continued. Burlers — Time $3.16 Piece 4. 01 Knottere — Time 3.16 Piece 3. 65 Mendere— Time 4. 14 Piece : 4. 74 Girls: Worsted spinners 2. 07 Wool spinners' piecers 2. 80 Winders- Time 2. 07 Piece 2. 55 Weavers, wool and worsted 4. 01 Burlers and knotters — • Time 1. 82 Piece ■ 3. 16 Leeds district. Reference has already been made to the wide range of goods man- ufactured in the Leeds district. These variations account for a sim- ilarly wide range of wages. Generally speaking, wages are highest in the fine-cloth mills and lowest where plain woolens are made. The following table shows the wages of the principal classes of operatives in 1911: Men: Foremen — Wages. Preparing : $12. 1 7 Spinning 8. 52 Weaving •. g. yg Others g. 52-9. 73 Fettlers (card strippers) 7. 06 Spinners 7. 66-9! 49 Warp dressers g 59 Beamers g, 57 Twisters-in 6. 20-6. 93 Woolen weavers 5. §4 i>yers ; e! OS Fullers. e. 08-7. 54 Dressers, finishers 6. 08-8. 76 Warehousemen " q[ 33-6. 57 Lads and boys: Scribblers' feeders (card feeders) . . . .* 3. 41 Piecers 2. 43-2. 92 Other lads and boys 2. 43-2. 92 Women: Scribblers' feeders (card feeders) 3. 41 Worsted drawers 2! 68 Worsted spinners 2. 55 Mule piecers ". '. 2. 43-2! 92 Doublers (twisting-frame tenders) 2. 55 Winders 2 55 Warpers .*-.';.".".";.".'.".' 3.65-4.38 Weavers, woolen 3, 53 Weavers, woolen and worsted 4. 14 Burlers and knotters : 2. 92 Menders and fine drawers ,,,, 3. 89-4. 26 Girls: Worsted spinnera ^ 2. 07-2. 31 Woolen piecers. 1. 95-2. 31 Winders 2. 07 Doublers 2! 07 Weavers, woolen 2. 80 Burlers and knotters l 82 fl 820 EEPOBT OF TABIFP BOAKD OK SCHEDULE K. The heamf woolen districL This district is a large one, including Mirfield, Ravensthorpe. Bewsbury, Batley, Birstall, Heckraondwike, and Ossett. The goods extend from very low woolens, cotton warps, and rag-wool wefts to men's wear woolens of good quality, costume cloths, low worsteds, pilots, beavers, as well as rugs and. blankets. The average weekly wage payments for this class of work are as follows: Average weekly wage. Foreman, weaving department $8. 27~$9. 49 Waahera 6. 60 Fettlera (card etrippers) 6. 20 Spinners, mule: Time . 6. 57 Piece 8. 52 Piecers: Bay 4. 38 Night 6. 08 Warpers 6. 57 Beamera 6. 33 Weavers, woolen 5. 35 Byers, time ^ 6. 08 Fullers: Time. 6. 08 Piece 6. 57 Bressera and finisher': Time 6.08 Piece , 7. 30 Warehousemen 5. 84 Lads and boys: Piecers 3. 16 Lads, generally .« 2. 68 Women: Scribblers* feeders (card feeders) "^ 3. 41 Drawers (drawing- frame, tenders) 2. 68 Doublers (twisting-frame tenders) — Time 2. 92 Piece 3. 77 Winders, time 2. 92- 3. 16 Weavers 3. 89 Burlers and knotters 3. 04-3. 28 Menders and fine drawers- Time 3. 53- 3. 77 Piece 3. 77- 4. 01 Girls: Scribblers' feeders (card feeder.-t) 2. 92 Worsted spinners (frame) 2. 07- 2. 19 Woolen piecers 2. 43 Winders — Time L 82 Piece 2.31 Doublers 2.07- 2.19 Weavers 2. 92 Burlers and knotters 2. 55 The following wages were the rates paid in 1909 by a leading firm in Dewsbury. These wages, which are practically unchanged to-day, may be taken as typical of the rates paid by the best firms. They are above the average of the district in almost every occupation, but the goods manufactured by this firm are also better than the general output. A higher quality of workmanship is therefore needed. Any changes EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 821 which may have taken place in these rates between 1909 and to-day are practically negligible: Average weekly wages. Rag grinders, men $6. 08 Rag pickers, women 3. 16-4. 38 Piecers, boys and youths 1. 95-3. 89 Fettlers (card strippers), men 6. 08, 6. 33 Beamera, men 6. 57 Machine warpers, men 6. 69 Loom tuners (loom fixere), men 8. 52-9. 73 Weavers, women * 4. 03 Millers (fulling machine tenders), men 6. 58, 6. 57 Dyers, men 6. 33 Raisers (napping machine tenders), men 6. 08, 6. 33 Pressers: . Men 6.57 Laborers, men 6. 08 Cutters (shearing machine tender): Men 6.08 Boya L95 Nappers, men 6. 08 Fine drawers, men 8. 52 Menders, women 3. 65 Cutlers (folders), men 6. 08 Warehousemen 6. 08 Fixers (machine fixers), men : 7. 30 Mill mechanics, men 8. 27-8. 88 1 Average per week over 4 years, Including holidays. JIalifax district. Workers in the woolen trade of Halifax are the worst paid of any in the West Riding of Yorkshire. There may be particular firms which in Halifax pay higher wages than their competitors in other centers, and there may be particular occupations in the trade in which the Halifax operatives earn above the average of the West Riding, but as a generalization the rule holds true that Halifax wages are low as compared with other districts. There is little woolen spinning in Halifax, but in one form or another there is a large amount of woolen weaving. On the other hand, there is a compara- tively large amount of worsted spinning. The carpets of Halifax are, of course, its specialty, but the figures submitted below are for the woolen and worsted industries omy. These tabulations which immediately follow show the weeldy wages for 1911. Men Wages in the Hali/ax district, 1911. Foremen — Preparing department (scouring and carding) $7. 91 Spinning department 7. 30 Weaving department 5. 84 Other departments 7. 30-8. 27 Wool sorters 7.30 Fettlers (card strippers) 5, 60 Woolen mule spinners 4. 38-6. 33 Twisters-in 7.91 Dressers and finishers 5. 60 Fullei-s (fulling machine tenders) 5. 60 Warehousemen 5. 60 32080-— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 14 i 822 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD OK SCHBDULE K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED OIT SCHEDULE K, 823 Liidsand boys: Worsted — Spinners |2. 19 Bawers 2.55 Jobbers 2. 07 Doffere . 1, 70 Wool piecere 2. 43-2. 08 Half-timera ft. 7t Women: Scribblers' feeders (card feeders) S. 1« Combers (comb tenders) 3. 04 Backwash and gill-box tenders 2. 92 Finiahers (finif'hin^ gill-box tenders) 2. 88 Drawers (arawing-firame tenSers) 2. 92 Spinners ( frame) 2. 55 Doiiblers 2, 68 Reelers — Time 2. 80 Piece 3.28 Winders — Time 2. 55 Piece 3. 28 Warpers 3, 53 Woolen weavers — ^ 1 loom 3. 65 2 looms 3.77 Worsted weavers— 1 loom 3. 41 2 looms 3. 53 Burlers and knotters 3. 16 Menders and fine drawers 3. 53 Do 3.65-4.14 Girls: Wofsted ipinaere (fmme) 2. 1^2. 43 Windewj 2. 43 Doubleis , - 2. 19-2. 55 Keighle^. The last district for which reliable data are obtainable is Keighley. This is a worsted-fituff district, and practically no woolen spinning or weaving is carried on. The following are the average weekly wages for 1911, according to occupations: Hem: Foremen — Preparing department $7. 91 Spinning department 7. 06-7.. 30 Weaving department 7. 54 Wool sorters — Time 7. 30 Piece 7.54-8.03 Washers (scoiiring-machine tenders) 4. 78 Combers (comb tenders) 4. 50 Warp dressersj piece 8. 27 Twisters-in, piece 7. 30 Worsted weaver?, 2 looms 5. 12 Warehousemen 4. 87-5. 84 Laborers, generally 4. 38-5. 12 Lads and boys: Worsted — Spinners 2. 55 Jobbers 2. 55 Doffera 2.31 Half-timers... 0.93 Women: Combers $3. 28 Backwash and box mindera 3. 16 Finishers (finishing gill-box tenders) 2. 92 Drawers (drawing-frame tenders) — Time 3.04 Piece 3. 41 Worsted spinners (frame) 2. 80 Doublers (twisting-frame tenders)— Time 2. 92 Piece 2.92-3.65 Reelers 3. 65 Winders- Time 2. 92 Piece 3.04 Warpers, time 3. 65 Worsted weavers — Iloom 3.41 2 looms 3. 65 Burlers 3.41-3.65 Menders and fine drawers 4.26 Girls: Worsted spinners 2. 55 Doublers 2.80 Worsted weavers, 2 looms 3. 04 Burlers 3. 41 Half-timers .90 GENEBAL. Some indications of the recent trend of wa^es in the woolen and worsted trade have already been given. For some years past this movement has been steadilv upward. The workers are not generally well organized. The degrees of organization vary from their almost complete inclusion of every man m the trade (in some districts) in their union to the almost complete absence of union members among the worsted spinners and in worsted spinmng mills. Where there has been organization, definite advances have been obtained during the past five years. This is notably the case with dyers, wool sorters, and wool combers at Bradford, weavers on 100 pick looms at Huddersfield, willeyers, and fettlers throughout the West Riding, rag pullers, etc., at Ossett, Dews- bury, and elsewhere, and pattern weavers on piecework in the Huddersfield woolen trade. It is also the case at many individual mills with spinners in the heavy woolen district, weavers in Leeds, the heavy woolen district, and in isolated cases elsewhere, warpers in most districts, mule piecers at Huddersfield, Colne Valley, Batiey, and other districts. The whole industiy, however, suffers from some notable defects. The entire absence of a single standard of wages for the whole West Riding for any occupation is remarkable. There are weaving lists at Huddersfield and at Quiseley; there is one observed by a group of firms at Batiey; there are recognized standards for willeyers and fettlers at Leeds, the heavy woolen district, Yeadon, Quiseley and district, and the Huddersfield district; there is also in the latter dis- trict a recognized standard for night piecers, pattern weaver, and dyers and in home dyehouses. This practically completes the list. Another obvious feature is the low proportion of piecework. In the cotton-goods industry 65.7 per cent of the operatives are on piecework; in the woolen and worsted trade only 37.9 per cent are paid by this method. The proportion in the different districts in 824 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE the woolen trade varies greatly, as will be seen from the following tabulation: District, Huddersfield Heavy woolen district Leeds. Keifihley Bradford Halifax , All Yorkshire Timework- Piecework- ers. ers. Per cent. Per cent. 45.1 S0.9 44.1 55.9 66.2 33.8 66.7 33.3 71.9 28.1 76.9 23.1 G1.4 saft EARNINGS IN THE LAWKEXCE, PROVIDENCE, AND PHH^ADELPHIA DISTRICT OF THE INITED STATES. The wages paid in the woolen and worsted industry in the United States vary widely, as in England, from district to district, from town to town, and. from mill to mill. Because of the marked varia- tions, it was thought advisable to show at this point, in tabular form, the range of weekly wages paid in woolen and worsted mills in three of the principal centers of the industry in the United States, though wage data for this country will be given in much fuller detail in Part V. The data have been compiled in Table 46, which follows: Table 46. — Comparative statement of highest and lowest weekly wages paid in specified occupations in die Philadelphia, Providence, and Lawrence districts. Occupation. Overseers: 1 Scouring Carding Combing Drawing Frame Bpinning Mule spinning (woolen). Mule spinning (worsted) Warp dressing Weaving Dyeing Wool sorter Scoiu-ing machine tender — Card feeder Card stripper Card tender Comb tender Gill box tender Back-wash tender Drawing frame tender Frame spinner Dofler Mule spinner (woolen) Mule spinner (worsted) Twisting frame tender Reeler (piecework). . .• Reeler (time work) Warp dresser Spooler Drawer-in Hander-in Weaver Burler Washer tender Fulling machine tender Steamer tender Dyer tender Shearer Pressing machine tender Examiner Range of weekly earning in specified txcvh pations in — Philadelphia district. $15. 20. 2a 20. 20. 20. 20. 16. 20. 4a 6. 7. 5. 7. 5. 5. 4. 6. 4. S. 4. 10. la 5. 9. 6. 11. 4 10. 3. 6. 4. 7. 7. 8 4. 6. 6. 8. 00-125.00 00-50.00 00-25.00 00- saoo OO- 35.00 00-25.00 00-35.00 00-20.00 00-30.00 00- 65.00 50- 17.00 OO- 12.00 60- 9.00 00- 11.00 00- 10.00 9.50 OO- 50- OO- 00- oo- 00- 9.00 9.00 8.00 7.00 5.00 OO- 16.00 OO- 15.00 OO- 8.50 OO- 12.00 00- 7.50 16.50 6.00 00- 13.00 50-5.00 00- laoo 50- 10.00 00- 10.00 50- 10.00 00-9.00 50- 11.00 50- 11.00 00- 18.00 OO- 19.00 00- 50- Providence district. $17. 0O-$25. 00 20. OO- 2'.. 00 24.00- 30.00 18. 00- 40. 00 18.00-24.00 15. 00- 20. 00 15. OO- 20. 00 16.00- 30.00 25. OO- 35. 00 35. 00- 40. 00 9.00- 14.50 7. 50- 11. 50 6.0O- 8.0O- 6.00- 7.00- 5.50- 7.00- 8.00 9.00 7.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 5. 50- 10. 50 5.50- 7.50 4.00- 6.00 9. 50- 17. 00 6.00- 10.00- 6.00- 14.50- 5.00- 9.00- 4.00- aoo- 6.50- 8.00- 8.0O- 9.00 11.50 7.00 15.50 11.00 12.00 7.00 18.00 10.00 12.50 9.00 8.00- 11.00 8.00- 11.00 8.00- 11.60 7.50- 11.50 Lawrence district. $18. 0O-$25. 00 30. 00- 40. 00 36. 00- 40. 00 24- 00- 36. CO 35. 00- 40. 00 40. 00- 45. 00 20.00- 35.00 25. 00- 30. 00 35.00- 60.00 40.00- 75.00 10 OO- 16. 50 too- 11. OO 6.00- 8.oa 7.50- 9.00 6.00- 8.00 7.50- 10 00 6.00- 9.00 6.60- 8.00 6.00- 9.50 6.50- 8.50 5.0O- 7.50 11. OO- 17.00 13.00- 21.00 6.00- 8.00 6.50- 13.00- 5.00- 6.0O- 4.00- 9.00- 6.00- 7.50- a50- 7.50- 7.0O- 7.00- 7.50- 11.00- 7.50 17.50 9.00 12.00 5.00 18.00 9.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 9.50 15.50 10 00 10.00 » Wide variatloBS shown in overseers' earnings are due partly to difference In methoda of organization ■nd the fact that in some mills they supervise more than one department. BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOAKD OX SCHEDULE K. 825 The districts shown in the above table are the Philadelpliia, Law- rence, and Providence districts. These cities, in the order named, are the leading cities in woolen and worsted manufacture in the United States. (See U. S. Census Report on Manufactures: 1905, Part III, p. 88.) Moreover, near these cities there are a number of localities in which various branches of woolen and worsted manufacture are conducted on a large scale. And in compiling the data for the above table the other localities beside the principal city or center have been consid- ered. Thus for the purposes of the above table the Philadelphia dis- trict includes several localities in Pennsylvania near that city as well as several in New Jersey. The Providence district comprises mills not only in Providence but in other localities in Rhode Island and Connecticut, and in the Lawrence district several other towns in Massachusetts are included. It can not be said so definitelv as in the case of England, that any branches of woolen and worsted manufacture is largely concentrated in one or two localities or districts, although in some districts one branch of the industry is conducted on a very extensive scale as, for example, top and yarn making in the Lawrence district. The facts are that in each of the specified districts all branches of the industry are important However, it should be said that the ranges of wages are only for the mills investigated by the Tariff Board, and that quite possibly there are other mifls in the specified districts in which lower or higher wages are paid than those shown above. A COMPARISON OF THE EARNINGS OF WOOLEN AND WORSTED OPERA- TIVES IN THE UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN. The data upon which the following comparative table of earnings is based were obtained by agents of the Tariff Board in the United States at woolen and worsted mills in 14 States, including New Eng- land, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Oliio, Indiana, Micliigan, Wisconsin, and Kentucky. The data for Great Britain are those contained in the report of the British Board of Trade on earnings in the textile trade, published in 1909, giving earnings for the year 1906. The agents of the Tariff Board verified the English data and report no material change in the rates. The board of trade classified the principal occupations and reported the number in each who worked a full-time week with the average earnings of the group in the period. For the purposes of comparison the number of persona employed in the same occupations in the United States, in the total of 35,029 persons for whom rates and earnings were obtained, have been classified in the same manner and the average earnings of each group for a full-time week of 55.6 hours ascertained. 826 Table 47. KBPOBT OP TABIFF BOAED OK SCHEDITL^ K. —Ocmpaiiims and weekly fidUwm mmings in the Uniied States and in Great Britain in the vxmlen and worsted industry. Occupation. Bex. Average full-time earninga of 55.6 hours. Kind of wiirk. driers. Wool sorter Do Do Do Wool washers, sconreni, Do Card strippPTS and tenders Comb tenders -- Do Back wash and gill- box minders. Do Drawing-frame tender Do Do Do Wool spinners (iniile) Do Warp dreoaefs Do Worsted-frame spinners Do Do Eeelers Do Winders Do Do... Do Woolen weavers Do W'OTsted weavers Do • Biirlers. - - ■ Do Menders ■ Do General laborers Male... ..do Female . . .do Male.... ..do — . .do — ..do.... Female . Male Female . Male . . .do. ... Female . . -do — Male ..do ...do ...do ...do... Female ...do... ...do... ...do... Male.. ..do... Female.. ...do.... Male... Female Male . . . Female ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do.... Male.. Time., Piece . Time. Piece . Time , Piece . Time , ..do. > m m \fMM • « ..do - . . .do . . . .do . Piece Time Piece Time. Piece. Time. Piece. Time. ...do.. Jr ll!CC» Time. Piece. Time. Time- Piece. ...do.. ...do.. . ..do.. ...do.. Time. Piece. Time. Piet^o. Time. United States. Num- ber of opera- tives. 197 273 srM 14 247 393 160 110 356 469 234 9 1,384 43 25 393 327 25 233 908 58 86 57 41 f7 168 314 84T 545 1,400 1,782 506 853 303 1,072 832 Aver- age wewcly ings. S1Z38 13.42 9.71 11.19 8.21 7.81 7.8S ^.53 6.73 5.84 6.80 8.39 6.21 6.79 10.40 11.75 12.94 14.12 7.40 6.40 6.46 5.46 6.93 7.13 7.75 5.53 7.08 10.63 10.54 13.36 9.55 6.16 7.12 7.77 9.19 8.21 United King- dom. Num- ber of opera- tives. 516 598 531 97 772 402 810 635 Aver- age weekly earn- ings. Excess United States over Great Brit- ain. 17.22 7.71 4.93 6.04 5.45 4.26 3.00 2.83 2,831 434 490 406 89 453 9,613 297 723 861 1,014 2,059 10,579 928 8,560 861 1,065 464 1,798 350 2.68 3.41 5.98 7.93 6.53 7,91 2.35 Per a. 71.5 74.1 6«i.5 43.3 84.3 117.3 106.4 131.7 99.1 73.9 48.2 98. •■ 78. A 2.94 3.56 2.(16 3.35 6.21 3.83 6.12 3.59 8.20 3.51 3.63 4.30 174 184.4 85.7 94.7 107.9 111.3 71.2 175.2 102.0 166.0 92.2 102.8 114.0 112.2 73.2 Agents of the Tariff Board copied the pay roils of two mills, one in the United States and one in England, making the same class of goods. The employees in the English mill were workmg 65i hours a week and those in the United States 56 hours. The English rates were raised to a 56-hour basis. The names of tlie occupations are those in the English mOls. This comparison is given as of interest because the two mills were of practically identical character in respect to macliinery and char- acter of pro'duct. The wages in the American mill are not neces- sarily t^-i^ical of wages in America, nor those in the English mill necessarily typical of wages for the woolen industry in England, but they can be easily compared with prevailing rates as given m the preceding table. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 827 Tablb 48. — A comparison of occupations and mmings in one English and one Amaican mill maJcing the same class of goods, based on actual pay rolls of the two mills, and on a week of 56 hours in each case. Department and occupation. Rates of wages per week of 56 hours in specified occu- pations. Excess United States United States. England. over England. Wool-sorting department: Wool sorters $16.00 16.14 $8.81 9.52 Percent, 81.61 Do 69.54 Average 16.08 9.02 78.27 Laborers 10.00 12.00 4.91 4.91 103. 67 Do 144. 40 Averaee 10.17 4.91 107. 13 Wool-ficouring department: Wool scourers 9.00 9.00 10.00 5.15 5.39 0.13 74.75 Do 66. 9S Do 63.13 Averaee 9.33 5.35 74.39 Wool dilers 9.50 9.50 5.62 4.91 69.04 Do - ... 93. 4S Average 9.50 5.27 80.27 Carding department: Carders 8.00 9.00 9.60 3.43 4.66 4.66 133. 23 Do 93.13 Do 103.86 A verftge ... . . . , ^ . . ^ 8.26 4.35 89.89 Combing department: Gill-box minder 7.00 8.00 9.20 9.20 9.20 4.42 4.66 4.90 5.39 5.80 58.37 Do 71.67 Do 87.76 Do 70 69 Do 56.20 Average 7.58 4.79 58 25 Backwasher minder 8.50 8.50 5.15 4.90 65 05 Do 73 47 Average 8.50 5.03 68 99 Noble comb minder 9.50 9.50 5.15 5.30 84 47 Do 76 25 Average 9.50 5.25 80 9S Li3ter comb minder 9.00 9.00 9.00 5.15 4.90 5.39 74 76 Do 83 67 Do 66 98 Average 9.00 5.10 7fi 47 Comb jobber (handy man) 10.00 9.50 9.00 8.50 5.89 5.39 5.15 4.90 69 78 Do 7fi SS Do 74 7(> Do 73 47 Average 9.25 5.33 73.55 Spinning department: Drawing-frame tender 7.00 7.00 7.00 3.07 3.31 3.43 123 01 Do 111 48 Do 104.08 Average , 7.00 ^ '^i 1 118 07 18 .HEPOKT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEBUIiE K. Table 48. — A comparismi of occupations and earnings in one English and one American mill making the same class of goods, based on actual pay rolls of the two mills, and on a week of 56 hours in each case — Continued. Ueparfinent and occupation. Spinning department— (Continued. Frame spinner— 160 spindles 160 long spindles 180 spindles 240spindlea 240 long spindles Doff era Do Average. Mechanical doffers. Do Do Do Eoving hands Bobbin boya Bobbin setters Do Average... Twisters. Warpers. Do.. jfi. vorag)© « Jobbers (handy men). Do Average. Yam scourers . Do Average. Weaving department: Warp dre.«5ers AY arp twisters Do Average . Piece examiners. Do Do Do Average. Mechanical department: Steam engineers Do Average. Oiler and greaser. Do Average. Stokers. Do. Average. Rates of wages per week of 56 hours in specified occu- pations. United States. 5.00 6.00 .5.25 6.00 7.00 4.50 4.50 4.50 6.00 6.00 8.00 9.00 6.00 6.00 4.50 5.00 4.86 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.80 5.00 6.00 5.33 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 14.69 15.00 11.00 13.00 12.50 12.00 11.50 10.00 11.86 13.50 13.50 13.50 12.00 10.00 England 11.00 12.50 11.60 11.70 2.33 2.45 2.45 2.81 2.% 2.45 2.33 «■ ^rk 2.45 2.45 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.05 3.31 3.31 3.31 2.45 2.45 2.45 6.62 4.42 4.66 5.03 8.86 8.58 8.58 8.58 6.88 6.38 5.89 5.89 6.38 6.86 5.89 6.38 6.15 6.15 5.15 6.13 4.90 6.62 Excess United States over England. Per ceni. 114.50 144.90 114.29 113.52 137.29 83.67 93.13 02.31 144.90 104.08 93.13 114.59 108.58 137.29 141.69 111.48 135.66 104.08 144.90 117.56 81.27 148.87 136.05 118.60 65.80 74.83 28.21 51.52 82.22 88.09 69.78 85.89 96.79 129.20 111.91 133.01 94.17 112.59 103.92 136.73 111.96 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 829 Table 48. — A comparison of occupations and earnings in one English and one American mill making the same class of goods, based on actual pay rolls of the two mills, and on a week of 66 hows in each case — Continued. I Department and occupation. Rates of wages per week of 5<3 hours in specified occu- pations. Excess United States V United States. England. over England. Mechanical department— Continued. Maciiiuisls , 16.00 15.00 14.00 13.00 7.85 6.38 6.38 6.38 Per cenL 103.82 Do 135.11 Do 119.44 Do 103.76 Average 14.73 7.60 93.82 CaiDenters and joiners 16.00 15.00 13.50 13.00 8.09 8.33 •6.13 6.13 97.78 Do 80.07 Do 120.23 Do 112.07 Averaee 14.83 7.52 97.21 Blacksmith 16.00 7.85 103.82 Nieht watchmen 14.00 14.00 5.89 5.39 137. 69 Do 159. 74 Average 14.00 5. 64 148.23 ij C iiiii 880 BOEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD OK SCHEDTTUS K. WACIBS IN VABIOT7S OOOTTPATIONS IN GBBMANY. In the table which follows are shown rates of pay for timeworkera in different occupations. As far as possible the sexes of those receiv- ing the rates are shown. Most of ttie mills, in which the time rates shown were paid, also paid on a piece-rate basis for the same work, but the units of pay were too numerous for presentation in a general table. Frequently where piece rates were paid a general equivalent in hourly rates was named or else a minimum week's earmngs for pieceworkers, and these eauivalents and guaranteed mimmum earn- ings are included in the table which follows: Occupation. Beomers and warpers Bobbin and spool setters in beaming depart- ment Bobbin boys in spinning room Burlers and menders Card tenders Cleaning up the loom for new warp Coinbiiig-room hands Comb tenders and gill-box minders Doublers and twisters Drawing in through harnesses Drawing in through reeds Drawing-room hands Dye-house foreman Dye-house hands Dyers ■ Filling spoolers Finishing-room hands Fullers Loom fixers Mule spinners Piecers Press tenders Rag sorters. Reelers Repair-room hands Scouring-machine tenders Second hands In beaming department Setting up harnesses for new cut Bhoddy-machine tenders Spinning-room hands Steam cloth finishers Teaselers Tenterers - Num- ber ol estab- lish- ments. Tiers in or twisters in Warehouse hands Winders Wool sorters Yarn packers and steamers. Yam sizers 15 5 1 10 2 1 I 1 2 3 3 1 1 3 3 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 7 3 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 2 2 13 1 7 Rate of pay per week. Males.. From— To— $3. ol 3.71 4.76 '4.28 6.30 4.98 4.20 '4.05 ta.43 2.29 '6.42 6.00 4.85 10.71 4.57 7.62 "5." 30* Females. From— To— Rate per hour. A lars:er number of estfiblishments paid bcamers and warpers on a piece-rale basis than on time rates, the prevailing unit of pay being 100,000 meters or 109,361 yards, and the rate per unit being 12 cents. The beamera on machines with hand power were paid more than those on power machines. One establishment paid from 3 to 7 mills per pound on 2-ply yams and from 4 to 14 mills per pound on 1-ply yams. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 831 For burling and mending one establishment paid from 11 to 21 cents per cut. For sewing the piece rate in two establishments ranged from 48 cents to $1.14 per cut of 52 yards. ^ven establishments paid weavers from 1.2 to 1.8 cents per 100 warp ends for drawing in through the harnesses. As a rule, the weaver in Germanv does his own drawing in and reeding in, and does it at the loom. For drawing in through the reed he is paid from 5 to 11 mills per 100 ends, or a flat rate of from 9.5 to 35.7 cents each time a change of cut necessitates such work. These dra wing-in rates vary both according to the number of harnesses and reeds and to the number of colors in the warp. Handers in received from 5 to 7 mills per 100 ends. Another work for which the German weaver is paid is hanging the harnesses and reed in the loom preparatory to weaving a new warp. For this he receives 1.2 cents per harness, if he has some one to help him, and twice as much if he does it alone. Other establishments paid a flat rate of from 11.9 to 95.2 cents for hanging the harnesses and reed. For tving in or twisting in on ordinary products 24 establishments Eaid from 7 to 20 mills for 100 ends, and on pattern products 8 estab- shments paid from 12 to 24 mills per 100 ends. Winders in one establishment received from 8.3 to 13.1 cents for winding 54,680 yards. The lollowing tables deal with the weekly earnings of workers in the woolen and worsted industry in Germany by specified occupations. Table 49 is a compilation of returns made to the central organic zation of textile workers, and shows wages by specific occupations in a number of different locahties. The table snows the number of returns on the indicated occupation from each locality and the wage rate for males and females. The first column shows the total num- ber reporting for the entire Nieder-Lausitz region, and the average wage for the entire region. The other columns show the facts for localities in that region, showing the rates at Forst, Cottbus, Sperm- berg, etc. Table 49. — Average weekly pay in gpecijled occupatUms in Germany. . Sex. Neider-Lausitz region. Cottbxis. Forst. Spermberg. Occupation. Num- ber of persons report- ing. Aver- age pay per week. Num- ber of persons report- ing. Aver- age pay per week Num- ber of persons report- ing. Aver- age pay per week. Num- ber of persons report- ing. Aver- age pay per week. Filling spoolers Warp spoolers Twisters Female.... do., .. .... do . 202 26.S 474 66 179 298 187 632 731 22 574 372 7 $3.03 2.99 2.88 2.12 3.28 2.73 3.62 3.42 3.15 4.08 2.62 3.57 2.26 152 246 172 31 35 62 62 456 137 19 237 334 $2.68 3.04 3.J5 1.84 3.20 2.84 3.48 3.32 3.46 4.03 2.57 3.61 19 S2.91 9 3.33 23 7 71 18 46 66 39 46 95 2 171 6 7 tl.94 1.95 2.61 2.23 3.49 3.01 3.71 3.54 3.-33 4.52 2.67 3.09 2 26 Bobbin setters Opening and picker room hands. Card-room hands Male and female. do do 17 26 67 29 82 64 1 92 32 2.51 4.01 2. 89 4.50 3.93 3.96 4.28 2.94 3.30 Fullinf^-niiil hands Dye-house hands Finishing-room hands. . . Cloth sizers and dressers. Burlers and menders Sewers... Male Male and female. • • • ■ « \X\} « • • • • Male Female-.. . ....do..... Sorters and shoddy Male pickers. Total 4.012 3.224 1,943 3.159 ri.12 5 oif: 597 2.959 832 REPOKT OF TARIFF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. Table 49. — Average weeMif pay in Mpedfied occupationa in (Germany— Continued. Occupation. Sex. Filling spoolers Female. . . . Warp spoolers 'lo Twisters do Bobbin setters Male and female. Oijening and picker room do hands. Card-room hands Fulling-inill hands Dye-house hands Flnlshtop-room hands Cloth sizors and dressers Barters and menders Sewers Boilers and shoddy pickers. . . Total- do Male Male and femak*. do Male Female — do Male SommerMd. Numlier of per- sons rev porting. 65 2i 2} 90 "34 Avera:g6 pay per wedc #1. tJH l.M 1.84 2.79 2-53 3. 12 a. 09 2.73 '2.'4J' Finstenraldo. Guben. Number of pt-r- soiis re- porting. Average pay per week. Number of per- sons re- porting. Average pay per week. 21 t3.60 16 34 13 $'1. 71 103 3.81 303 2. HO 223 40 2.08 2.' 08" 10 14 21 25 122 2.95 2.62 3. 08 3.51 2.89 320 2.839 213 3.045 Below in Table 50 will be found the earnings of male and female operatiTes in woolen and worsted mills covenng a large number of occupations and in many instances a considerable period of time. These represent the pay checks of employees, some of whom, being time workera at a weekly rate, show only the hours for one week. Piece workers show the mdividiial's pay for ajt least a month, some for three or more months. In each case the total hours worked in the period coTered are shown, together with total earnings and average hourly rate. For the most part these are from the Lucken- walde District, though some are from near Aachen, Averages are not of much value based on so few cases as we find in some occupations, but are given for such value as they may have. Female menders average 7.22 cents per hour. These were all from in or near Luckenwalde; male carders in a mill near Aachen average 8.22 cents an hour. Female spinners (ring frame) in Luckenwalde average 5.64 cents an hour, etc. Table ^.—Hourly earnings of operatives in German woolen and worsted miUs, hy occu- pation and MX. Occupation. Spinners- Do- Do.. Do.. Do- Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do-. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do.. Do- Sex. Female. ..do.... .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. •do. -do. .do. .do. .do. .do. Age. Total hours worked. 15 522 16 60 16 519 17 674.5 18 721.5 18 646.6 18 702 20 692.5 20 595 20 692.5 24 712 24 679 24 667 26 680 30 617.75 31 602.5 32 613 34 703 30 598 Total wages. 134.19 2.57 31.32 30.15 35.50 32.62 43.26 43.32 34.31 37.74 42.57 33.67 33.22 34.65 36.97 38.03 35.20 37.63 35.44 Rate per hour. SO. 066 .043 .060 .053 .049 .061 .062 .063 .058 .055 .060 .050 .050 .060 .060 .065 .057 .064 .059 KEPOBT OF TAKIFF BO.iBD ON SCHEDULE K. 833 Table 50. — Hourly earnings of operatives in German woolen and worsted mills, by occupation and sea;— Continued. Occupation. Spinners. Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Mender. . Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do.... Do... Do... Do... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do.... Do..-. Do-... Carder Do..-. Do.... Do.-.. Do...- Do.... Do.... Do--.- Do..- Do.... Do.... Do.... Do-..- Do.... Teaseler. . Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Spooler... Do... Do... Do... Do... Twister... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... Do... OpeiK^r... Do... Do... Do.... Piecers Do..., Do.... Sex. Female Male... ..do.... .-do.... -.do...., Age. 42 ..do..-. Female. ..do.... .-do.... ..do-... .do. -do- .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. -do -do -do ...do ..-do ..do .-do -.do --do ..do ..do ..do ..do ..do ..do .-do .-do ..do .-do ..do -.do Male .-do -.do ..do ..do ..do ..do ..do ..do .-do ..do Female ..do ..do Male ..do ..do ..do .-do ..do Female ..do ..do ...ao.. .--do-- ...do.. --do.. ..do.. ..do., .-do-. ...do. ...do.. Male. ..do-- ..do.. ..do., --do-- .-do.. ..do.. Total hours worked. 16 16 16 17 17 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 21 21 22 23 24 24 24 25 25 25 29 30 30 32 33 37 37 38 41 51 31 •33 34 54 61 62 17 19 38 45 47 21 21 22 22 22 23 26 619 250 25G 250 256 256 451.25 547.50 493 517 721.50 493.75 488.50 388.50 487 362 721.50 015.50 631 444.75 532.50 458.50 481.50 574. 75 484 550.50 55.50 384.75 548 005.75 50 369 451.75 480 4()3 635 405 391.25 457 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 252 252 60 60 651. 75 60 60 60 691 614.50 692.50 682.50 682.75 721.50 721.50 674 645.50 691 607.50 695.50 256 256 256 126 256 256 256 Total wages. 136.00 28.44 30.42 25.35 29.16 24.82 38.24 40.32 35.09 35.17 39.33 41.90 35.94 25.66 35.81 33.16 45.43 43.21 31.73 36.95 38.30 29.77 32.32 39.30 42.37 37.01 3.93 31.42 35.79 47.81 3.93 28.81 33.58 34.99 41.79 35.24 36. 31 30.01 34.73 21.73 23.34 19.74 17.80 20.77 24.75 23.61 23.51 15.47 19.42 21.66 14.23 13.28 16.09 3.71 3.57 40.73 3.86 3.36 3.28 29.39 41.00 42.11 34.88 40.61 44.16 53.72 43.80 47.97 41.29 38.01 41.98 24.19 18.08 17.08 9.14 13.61 11.05 10.83 Rate per hour. 10.053 .1111 .1188 .0990 .1139 .0970 .0847 .0735 .0724 .0680 .0545 .0847 .0735 .0661 .0735 .0916 .0630 .0593 .0502 .0831 .0719 .0649 .0797 .0683 .0876 .0674 .0707 .0816 .0609 .0719 .0655 .0781 .0743 .0728 .0902 .0555 .0897 .0766 .0759 .0849 .0912 .0771 .0695 .0811 .0967 .0919 .0919 .0604 .0759 .0646 .0556 .0527 4)638 .0619 .0595 .0625 .0643 .0559 .0547 .0426 .0666 .0607 .0511 .0595 .0612 .0744 .0650 .0743 .0597 .0625 .0604 .0945 .0706 .0667 .0725 .0532 .0432 .0423 834 Table M.— EKPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUO; K. Howrly earnings of operatims in German woolen and worsted millSj hf hccupa^ a^ mx-4:ontmued. Ocraipation. Sex. Age. Total hotira worked. Total wagas. Rate per hour. I*iecPrs .... Male 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 60 680. SO 60 60 60 60 729 €0 60 773 60 780 614 1,110 687.30 60 60 60 646 60 644.75 718.25 654 60 60 68 791.90 444 676.75 721.50 620 60 tlO.76 11.38 11.11 10.14 ia78 8.57 8.90 4.76 38.06 3.43 3.86 3.00 3.21 80.75 3.86 4.07 63.42 3.00 80.67 33.68 34.# 82.33 27. M 3.86 4.00 4.28 34.65 3.36 37.50 29.38 29.31 3.64 3.88 3.21 41.24 31.58 46.04 46.40 44.66 3.21 SO. 0420 Do . ..do .0444 Do ...do .0434 Do . ..do .0896 Do. .. ...do .0421 Do do .0335 Do ...do .0348 YaiB^tock man 'Dniwer-in Cloth presaer PiclEU-'macliiiie tender Card tender Do , Wuru sizer VtinincTnill JmiW} Male. Feraale..-. Male ...do Female.... ...do Mate .. .do. 45 16 34 42 25 SO 54 30 42 42 44 34 29 30 41 15 19 51 29 17 23 25 37 59 54 67 17 19 19 22 29 29 30 .0793 .0339 .0571 .0643 .0500 .0.^% .1107 .0643 Do ...do .0678 Do ...do .0821 JtBlsiiing-ioom hand Dry w . ...a...... ...do ...do .0500 .1035 Sorter Female . . .do... .... .0548 Do 0312 Do . ..do .0495 Sooiil or bobbin aeltcr... ...do .0407 1$ym Mate . ..do .0643 Do .0666 ll*rt©r and winder ...do .0714 Burler Ftomate ...do .0536 Do .0559 Do ...do .0583 Do . . .do .0409 Do ... ...do .0447 W«tp beamer Mate ...do .0607 Do .0&13 Do Femate ...do .0530 Do ... .0587 Do ...do .0711 Do . . .do***.* . . .0680 Do ...do.**..... .0643 Do ...do .0720 Do . . . . ...do .(mn BATES OF WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN AUSTRIAN WOOLEN AND WORSTED MILLS. formation regarding wage rates paid in different occupations in I woolen and worsted establishments, and in wool-dyeing estab- The information Austrian lishments, represents 48 individual establishments located in 15 towns, and also includes the wage scales used by the establishments controlled by* two large associations of manufacturers. Such establishments as did not make woolen or worsted cloths, and such as did not dye wool in one form or another, have been excluded from consideration. In the Austrian mills the payment of wages on a time basis still greatly predominates over payment on a piece-rate basis. Of 37 occu- pations for wliich rates are shown in the tables which follow, only 7 were paid for on a piece-rate basis, and even in the 7 piece-rate occupa- tions, which include mule spinning, spooling, twisting, reeling, weaving, ftnd tying-in, certain establishments paid on a time basis. Hourly rates and weekly rates have been reducea to day rates. The reports from the foUowmg mills showed the hours of labor per week, as follows: Establishments numbered 24, 25, 26, ana 27, in the Austrian weavers' wage scale table, run 58 J hours per week; establishment 28 runs 60 hours for time workers, 63 for piece workers; 29 runs 56 hours; 32 and 33 run 57 hours; 40 runs 53 1 hours; 41 and 44 run 55 hours; while establishment number 43 runs 63 hours per week. There was no uniform custom in distributing the weekly hours of labori but in most establishments work began at 6 or 6.30 a. m. and REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. ended at 6 p. m., with from one-half an hour to an hour and a half about noontime. Some establishments allowed a quarter-hour pause in the forenoon and afternoon, and counted in with the regular tours of labor the time for paying off employees and a half hour each Saturday or the day preceding' a holiday for cleaning up the work- rooms. In practically all establishments certain hofidays were observed, for which days the employees were either paid a full-time wa^e, regardless of the amount of production, or else were paid at an increased rate for each hour worked. Overtime and night work for all indoor occupations were paid from 40 to 50 per cent higher in many estabhshments. One establishment, No. 28, had a 10-hour day for time workers and a 10§-hour day for pieceworkers. In Table 51 the rates of pay per day in occupations preparatory to spinning are shown: Table 51. — Showing rates of pay per day for occupations preparatory to spinning. Establishment or group nnmber. Rate of pay per day. •i Wool sorters, male. Wool sorters, female. Picker -machine tenders (all males). Card tenders (all females). Card strippers (all males). 10... fO.28 $0.45 $0.43- .46 .43- .45 .45 .40 .45 .43- .45 .45 .45 $0. 33-$0. 39 .33- .39 .33- .39 .35- .39 .35- .39 .35- .39 .33- .39 .35- .39 .35- .39 .33- .35 .33- .36 .33- .39 $0. 45-$0. 51 11 ia27 12 .4^ .51 .47- .51 .4&- .51 .51 .47- .51 .47 .48 .51 .47 .43 .61 .68 '" lu" 13 14 28 16 17 ::::t::::::::; IS 19 20 :::.. 21 .47 .43- .51 23 25 26 .49 «.53 .11- .49 . 55- 1 . 65 . 43- » . 56 .31- .35 ♦.85 27 28 1 31 Ml- .61 .3^ .41 42 ; 1 1 » Male ftnisher card tenders. « Bate paid for night work. » Female finisher card tenders. « Rate paid to male card feeders. • Rate paid to blenders. Women and ^Is predominated in the occupations of wool sorting and wool blending. Practically all were time workers; the few who were pieceworkers were working under a guaranteed minimum of earnings about equal to the usual time rate. The lowest rate paid was 27 cents per day and the highest 41 cents. One estabhshment paid beginners 35 cents per day for the first six weeks of their employ- ment. In another establishment women wool blenders were paid 6.1 cents per hour and young girls 4.1 cents per hour. In 13 establishments picker-machine tenders received from 41 to 51 cents per day; the average rate was about 45 cents. Two estabhsh- ments paid a rate of 53 cents per day for^ight work. One mill paid its picker-room foreman $3.25 per week and in addition a premium of 4.1 cents for each 100 kilos (220 pounds) of finished yam produced. In Austria card tending is done almost exclusively by females, only 2 out of 15 estabhshments showing any men as card tenders. The pay of the women varied sUghtly with the width of the carding cyhnder. In no instance was it lower than 31 nor higher than 39 cents per day. Usually within that range each estabhshment had four groups of card tenders, paid according to the width of the cards. One estab- 836 BEPOHT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTTIJ5 K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDULE K. 837 lisliment employing men in tliis department paid tliem from 55 to 65 cents per day for tending finisluiig cards and paid women from 43 to 55 cents per day for doing the same kind of work. Card feeders who were men were paid 35 cents per day and card boys $1.91 per w^eek, or 32 cents per day. Card stripping is done entirely by men, and the variations in rates of pay depend upon term of service with their employer or upon efficiency. Of the 14 establishments reporting rates for card strippers, the highest rate, 68 cents per day, was paid in an establishment in Brunn, and the man receiving it was not enti- tled to any increase of pay for overtime work or work on holidays, aa others were. The lowest rate reported was 43 cents per day. The average rate was about 47 cents per day. In Austria, as elsewhere in Europe, the dyeing of stock, yams, and cloths is done mostly in dyeing and finisliing estabhslunents, although some cloth-producmg establishments have their own dyehouse departments. The rates of wages secured for dj^ehouse labor were for both khids of establislmients and included (a) 13 cloth-producmg establishments wliich do their own dyeing, (h) a combination of 7 dyeing establishments, (c) a larger combination of cotton, silk, and •wool dyeing establishments, of which 13, included here, dye wool or woolen yams and cloth, and (d) the Verband Ocsten-eicliischer Seiden- firber (association of Austiian silk dyers). Table 52. — EaUa ofpa^ per day for work in the dyehouse. Establisli- mentor group number. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 16. 17. 1!». 20. 21. Hours of labor per week. Sex of em- ployees. Rank und expenence of dyers or kiad of work on which engaged. 23 24 27. 20. 18. iS| 44. Male . . . ...do. .. ...do. . . ...do ...do... ...do... ...do.. . ...do... ...do.. . ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... I... do... 58i I.. .do... ...:.!. ...do... I... do ...do... ...do.. . ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... Female. . . .do. . . Male... . ..do... ...do... Female. ...do... ...do... Male... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do.. . Female. ...do... I Not specified . ' do do. 50 55 <:0 do .do do do do First man Others Not specified First group (2 men) . . , Second group (3 men) . Third group (2 men) . . Group 1 Group 2 Group 3 Independent dyers, over 23 yeswa old Dyers changing from cotton or silk to wool dycinp: . .do. Skilled dyers, during first year after apprenticeship — Skilled dyers, after first year after apprentloeship Helpers at the dye vats After 1 1 years' experience at one branch of dreinf: After 3 years* experience at one branch of dyeing Beginners After * year's experience After 1 year's experience Be8:inneiB After I year's experience After I year's experience Independent dyers, Over 21 years old Dyers changing from cotton or silk to wool dyeing Skilled dvers, during first vear after apprenticeship. . . 8kilie ON SCHEDUI^ K. EBPOaT OF TAEIFF BOABD OH SCHEDULE K. I s (2 SS5522§g§55S2 : ! » • • "8 o o a9 9 O 9 3 ^ 1^ 00 t-» 5h '"I'tt^oc ao O g *'525feo-2SSoo iM M^M iiW |i(iH Jwl ||iiH ■/■•( |i»Hi SW liPHi ijiiM to o o p "C? *HiiiJ "O "O p 2 P5 " "u 1! S OOP o o o o tTjjj *nj]i *TjJ *553l *tl3 THJ '^3 ei rl rt -^ r-« lO t iQQ C3' *W|t « io PI CO is' * „44 S^i •X Xi X) X X 'J-.' » X .X ■O •^'i ^O *0 O t^ lO O *C J O t d5 ^ o o o o o o mo » o o o o o o o i^*e3[ "tjj *([3 "Tjj njU *o *C^ o «-> 2^t e^ • "5 C C C _ _J O ^^ 5J 3 S rt © STJ« ^ a « as ® ^ „ gjo^ojo h 2 23 t^ C^ '^ fi^ S O O O O O Q V XJ t3 tJ "O "O "O e o o o * i-*tHW*i-1 ir-^ wH •-* ♦* o ©2225 £•** ♦-' o c^ -^ o 3 »0 00 r-n— < 1— I »-# a a a s a ^ a Oft ^^ O Q p O I^H •'■^ i^"^ iif*''* S fij 1^*^ fP"| 1"^ F^ 1""^ l^^ T^^ T*"! !■■( IT""! •"'4 ^ ■0 .9 I • CtJ o o o-rJ s8 *^ 00 CO -v OOOCOOOO ■^ 'C ^^ *t^ "^ "3 *o *%5 ooooooooooooooooooooooooo T^TS? T5*0 T3 *0 "O "O *%U *0 'O XJ'O *0 T? *0 T3 *0 X?'0 "^ *0 T3 T3 "O 5*0 o§ O !* CS3 OO'DOOOOOOO TD T3 T!*J "Iw? *C 'O "T? 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'-^ ^ -^ « « a.2i.2j « OO 00 00 OO 00 00 CO •O kO >0 to MS to aO ?5 C«0 "-I CO o O GO oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 'O T3 T7 T3 X> "O "O "O TJ "O "O X3 "O "O "O TS XS "O TJ X) "d "w Xl "U "O "TS "O "IS XJ "O "O "O "O OOOOGOOOOO X3X)X)X3XJX3XJX!X3*a o o o o 859 X3 O i » i ::_ o ^ -H C5 lo C3 io-* -"T CO ja-^ 1^ OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGou XJXSX)T3X3T3X)T3X3'T3X3X3XIX3X3X5'0'OXJXJX3X3 o oS GOD 'O X3 X? * 00 Oiooin 00 Cb o 04 e« CO <-( 840 BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. i K I CO' 5 $ B Ot ••2, cj^*-^c4'^r-io4r4*HF-4*-« * * ; ; I • • !>• » • -^ : : _j» . ^ ■ *••••••••#•■••«*•.■,. J3«»« Bl««tti»tBi»«tt«» "O ta •13 • t • OB ■ tX) ••■•«•• a • • •>} • 6 • • "jiii • ■ d • • • ■ Ja • * s J ' ' * ' ' ' ' C ' 3 ' * 'a • ' n • • • 'a ' ' 5 o_g o o o_Q_o o a o 5 o o o a o o 5 o o o o a 8 ::::::: :S :S ■■: :2 : :^ ::: :S : : GO CO I' a e .0 u o .S o |s.^ 9 S 01 o $,35 » ©00 . W CO o f»»>it»* :j3 fiiiii>ii« ; o ■ bC 3 • * * * • 'fl • fc k te t>>*_o-M q o S a fc : : :+5Qa3 lllllsEsee-gseeEEBe S S a Q.C.c3.sa.e3.il.c3 Js.ee a Srt a c3 > .'-"» .'■•' =^ .w ?► .«= 03 OO W 03 C3 03 :/: :S HfHHHHHH woooooooooogooooooooooooiJo s 8 t Is c Q s 8 o :a e ^oooooooooogoooooooooooo 0Q^'O'O'OX3*O'©'O*O*O,SJ'O'OX5'O'O*O't?'OT3T?*O'O fr< : : : : ; : : ; : :pi ■2 • ; S ; So o 3 s 0x2 *0 e-d w H a O (3 o-* C» 00 to ft 1-1 cl i!i Labonitory BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. '"'"■^^^ ^'<^4j C^iunnbia University Mule spinners were paid usually per 100 kilograms, oi<^f?^f ^Wh6 pounds produced, with an increase in the rate with the smaller yarns . One establishment paid mule spmners tending 480 spindles $1.19 per 100 kilograms (220 pounds) for spinning number 5i (that is, yarn which requires 5,500 meters, or 6,014.8 yards, to weigh 1 kilogram, or 2.2046 pounds), and paid other spinners tending the same number of spindles $1.44 for spinning number 10 yarn, or yam requiring 10,000 meters, or 10,936 yards to weigh 1 kilogram. Wlien the yarn spun was numbered higher than number 10, the spinner was paid 13 cents per 100 hanks of 1,000 meters, or 1,093.6 yards, each. This rate, when reduced to the kilogram basis, was $1.30 per 220 pounds, or 14 cents less than was paid for numbers 8f to 10. In another establishment the rates per 220 pounds were as follows: Rate per 220 pounds. Yarn Nos. (metric or international svstem): lto54 '. . .. 5}to7 7Jto8 $1.10 1.26 1 30 Slto8| 1.36 9 to 10 1 42 A third establishment paid spinners $3.49 per week, or 58 cents per day; and a fourth paid them 15 cents per 100 hanks of 1,093.6 yards each, or $1.50 per 220 pounds on yarns less than No. 10. In these four establishments all mule spinners were males. Two of these establishments paid reelers, all or whom were females, as follows: FIRST ESTABLISHMENT (NO. 25). Yarn Nos. (metric or international STstem): 1 to5i '. , 5|to7 7to8 StolO Over 10 Twist yarns Yarns for backing Wage rate per 220 pounds. $0.53 .59 .63 .67 1.077 1.073 1.041 SECOND ESTABLISHMliNT (NO. 2(5). Yam Nos. (metric or international system) ^i 7 H &|to9 9tol0 Over 10 $0.57 .61 .65 .70 .71 1.073 1 Per 100 hanks. 842 REPOBT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. The yam boys were paid a piece rate, which was not reported, but were guaranteed earnings of not less than 34 cents per day. Yarn packers received from 45 to 49 cents per day. Tliree estabhshments paid spoolers of fdling yam between 35 and 44 cents per day. Six others paid the filhng-yam spoolers from 10 to 1 7 per cent of the pay on the loom using the yarn spooled. In four other establishments the spoolers of filUng yam were paid piece rates on a basis of 1 kilogram, and here the rates, which are reduced in Table 53 to a 100-kilo, or 220-pound basis for greater convenience of comparison with other occupations, ranged from $1.02 for 220 pounds of yarn under No. 5 to $3.35 per 220 pounds for No. 25 yam. Thus the rates increased as the yarn six>oIed became finer. The average of the rates paid was $1.90 per 100 kilos. Female hand spoolers were paid 37 cents per day and machine spoolers 44 cents per day. Only one establishment paid its warp-yam spoolers on a time basis, their rate being $1.99 per week, or 33 cents per day (all males). Six paid on a basis of 100 kilo (220 pountls), their rates ranging from 51 cents for Nos. 3 to 5 yam up to $1.22 for No. 16 yam. All rates reported for twisting were for males. ' For this work two estabhshments paid 35 cents and 49 cents per day, respectively. Three estabhshments, which paid on a piece-rate basis, whicn was not reported, reported day rates ranging from 41 to 51 cents, below which the piece-rate earnings were not allowed to fall. Tlie prevailing day rate for twisting was therefore about 45.4 cents. The lowest piece rate reported was $1.02 per 220 pounds for t\^isting a 5 J and a 30 " Strahn ' ' yarn together, and the highest rate was $4.67 per 220 pounds for twisting a 16 and a 64 yam together. For tmsting two 10 carded- wool yams together another establishment paid $1.22 per 220 pounds, and paid $2.84 per 220 pounds for tmsting two 22 carded-wool yarns together. Other rates m other establishments f oi other sizes of yam within the limits indicated were within tliese ranges in rate. In so far as the scales show rates for the general labor and indoor occupations connected with a woolen or worsted mill, these rates liave been tabulated below: Table 54. — Rates of pay in miscellaneous occupations. Estab- lishment No. Occupation. Rate of pa/ per day. 24 28 Stationarj' fireman do SO. 68 .64 .45 .51 .57 .45 .48 .16 .37 .57 Blacksmith Carpenter M^ason Belt maker Teamster Nijfht watchman Day lalxirer 27 Gear tender In practically all indoor occupations the worker received an increase of from 25 to 50 per cent in liis rate when he worked overtime, at nights, or on holiclays. PART IV -SECTION 1. READY-MADE CLOTHING AND WEARING APPAREL. 843 tj EEADY-MADE CLOTHING. Any inquiry into the subject of wool and its products would be incomplete without a thorough consideration of the manufacture of men's and women's garments. To the producers of cloth this indus- try is of primary importance, inasmuch as it absorbs the greater part of their product. The clothing manufacturer is a wholesale buyer of the products of the mill, and the greatest part of the cloth pro- duced by the mill in men's goods and a very great part, if not the greatest, in women's cloths reaches the consumer only through the medium of the manufacturers of factory-made garments. How true this i^of the men's clothing industry is shown by the fact that as far back as 1900 the output of men's clothing as a factory, product was valued at twice the custom product. To the great body of consumers the factory product is of even more significance than the above ratio'might indicate, since the value of the custom-made prod- uct is the result of relatively high prices per garment as compared with factor3'-made clotliing. It is more ditlicult to show by the figures the relative importance of the factory product in w^omen's clothing as compared with the output of the ladies custom tailor, the dressmaker, and the home. But every successive census has revealed a remarkable growth in the women's clothing industry, indicating that in a great measure the factory industry is coming to hold for women's wear the place it now holds for men. According to the United States Census figures for 1905, men's clothing ranked seventh in the gross value of products and women's clothing fifteenth. The combined output of the two industries, $603,500,000, ranks fifth; the value of their products was exceeded in only four other industries, those concerned with the products of rneat, and flour, the machine shops and foundries, and the steel and iron works. From the point of view of waires paid out, men's and women's clothing ranked respectively eighth and tenth. The combined pay rolls of the two industries in 1905 was approximately $110,000,000, to which should be added most of the $41,000,000 paid out for contract work. The amount expended for wages in the two garment industries combined is exceeded in only four other industries. Since 1905 there has been a large growth, the product of men's clothing having increased more than one-third and that of women's clothing more than one-half. The combined output of the two 845 / .1 I 846 REPOET OF TARIFF BOAR0 OK SCHEDULE K. industries, according to tlie last census, exceeded $870,000,000. details are shown in the following table: Table 1. — Chlhingy men*g. The Items. United States. Number of establishments. Persons engaged in manu- factures I*roprietor3 and ftrm memliers Salariod employees — Wage earners (average number) Capital Expenses Bervicres Salaries Wages Materials Miscellaneous Value of products 6,584 218,255 7,375 19, W7 191,183 1230.703,112 438.488,649 112, 727, aw 23.082.137 89,644,921 252,522.567 73,2.39,024 485,677,493 New York City. 2,350 70, §37 3.368 o, 994 61,275 fT8,372.785 176,761,862 42,707.495 7,314,806 35,392,629 99,428,640 34.625,727 195,555,371 Chicago. Baltimore. Philadel- phia. 659 310 414 37,537 16,974 9,480 813 430 m 3,835 1,454 655 32,890 15,090 8,233 |35,753,9<>3 115,624,572 111,396.544 7.5.278,065 26,817,911 19,267,471 19,624,413 7,925,505 6,092,802 4,195,296 1,500,607 815.431 15,429,117 6,334,808 4,277,371 42,033.777 15.818,020 10.819.420 13,619,875 3,074,386 3,355,249 83,735,584 29,236,539 21,852,261 Rochester. 19fl 8,559 341 586 7,732 flO.808,113 17,365,681 4,970.713 1,162.161 8,681,561 3,703,307 18,878,508 Table 2. — Clothing, womcn^t* I'tems. United States. Number of estabEshmontj? Persons enpajied in manufactures Proprif'tors and firm members Salaried employees Wage earners (average number). . . Capital Expenses Services Salaries Wages Materials. Miscellaneous Value of products 4.558 179,021 6,482 18,796 1.53,743 $129,301,057 341.489,256 98.986,029 20.417,768 78.568,261 208,788,226 33,715,001 384,751,649 New York Philadel- City. pliia. 2.996 351 110.567 15,627, 576 4,332 11,977 1,651 94,258 13,500 180.761.926 110,590,279 236,090.095 26, 21)3.811 66,616,938 8.104.608 13,099,250 1.5.30,7.33 53.517,688 6,573,875 144.845,027 16,6«)5.940 24,628,i:)0 1,523,362 266,477,381 30,132,842 Cldcago. I Cleveland. 204 6,666 2.54 797 5,615 $5,193,048 14,1.36,673 3,911.981 916,022 8,666,249 1,666, 44:^ 15,676,925 96 6,326 100 708 5,418 $4,940,583 12,837.165 4.029,4.37 1,126,263 2,903,174 6,496.487 1,311,241 12,788,775 In considering tliese census data, it should be borne in mind that under men^s clotliing is included cliildren^s clothing and some wearing apparel other than the regular men's outer garments. Similarly women's clotliing includes more than the woofcn skirts, suits, and coats. Taken as a whole, however, garments not made of woolen cloth are not of gi-eat significance in the statistics for men's clothing. For women's clotliing they are far more important, but nevertheless it is the woolen garments that are of prime moment for this industry as well as for the men's clothing traae. In view of the greater miportance of Schedule K for men's clothing, it was upon iMs that the present investigation laid particular stress. Much of what applies to the factory product is equally applicable also to the custom trade. In its upper range of prices the factory product competes actively with custom-made clothes, and the metiiods of makm^ up garments in some branches of the custom trade are not very different from those emploved in the making of the factory product. CILIRACTERISTIC8 OF THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY. For a full understanding of the work done and the figures that follow, it is necessary to state here some of the peculiarities, features, and conditions of the garment trades. < .*, REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 84t A striking characteristic of tliis industry is its urban concentration^ It is restricted to the large cities, and among the cities to a com- paratively few. Not requiring extensive plants, it enjoys in the large cities the advantages of an abundant labor supply and special facihties which they afford for marketing the product. These more than offset the disadvantage of high city rents. Characteristic of this urban congestion of the industry is the fact that in 1910 New York alone produced one-half of the output of the com- bined men's and women's clotliing industries. Its share of the men's trade is one-third of that for the country as a whole. Chicago, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Kochester rank after New York in the order named. The five cities combined produced in 1910 over 70 per cent of the total product. The other important centers are Cincinnati, Boston, and St. Louis. Here are the census figures for the five leading centers : Table 3. — Men^s clothing. CONCENTRATION OF CLOTmNG INDUSTRY-VALUE OF PRODUCT IN THE UNITED STATES AND IN THE FIVE LEADING CITIES, 1905 AND 1910. Locality. t United States New York Chicago Baltimore Philadelphia Rochester Total for citie-s specified Amount. 1905 $355,796,571 137,104,900 63,230,4.36 19,565,474 18,077,809 14,948,703 242,927,322 1910 $485,677,493 195,555,371 83,735,584 29,236,539 21,8.')2,261 18,878,508 Per cent. 1905 1910 100.0 100.0 38.5 15.0 5.5 5.1 4.2 40.3 17.3 6.0 4.5 3.9 349,258,263 68.3 71.9 In view of the Idgh degree of concentration of the industry in the five cities named, and the fact that all grades of clothing are repre- sented in their product, it was obviously sufficient to restrict the present investigation to these leading centers. The cities named have to a considerable extent specialized in the character of their product. Chicago and Kochester are noted as centers for the high grades of clothing; New York, Pliiladelpliia, and Baltimore as centers for the medium and cheaper grades. This statement is true in a general way, but in every city the product covers a large range in prices. Tims, though the product of New York is predominantly cneap and medium, a very large amount of high-grade clothing is there manufactured. One phase of the industry is largely centered in Chicago — the "special order/' or wholesale tailoring industry. Tliis consists in making up garments for individual customers, garments sold through agencies or by ^'mail order." Characteristic of the industry is the fact that it involves compara^ tively little investment in the form of plant or machinery. In com- parison with the value of the output and the number of persons employed, a clotliing establishment occupies but httle^ space. This is one factor that makes possible urban location. The investment of a clothing firm is in stock of cloth and trimmings on hand, and in accounts receivable, or the stock sold but not paid for. The ma- chinery used absorbs but little of the investment — in one notable Orko BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. instance of a larg© establishment conducting its own shops, the value of the macliinery was set down at about 6 per cent of the net assets. The buildings occupied are usually rented. Manufacturing, or more particularly the maidng up of the garments, is in the great majority of the establishments done in whole or in part through contractors. This circumstance makes the question of depreciation on plants one of no significance for manufacturing costs. Even where liberal allowance is entered for depreciation, the effect on the total cost is practically neghgible. Both relativelv and absolutely, the capital required is small as compared with the volume of busmess done. As a result the clothing industry is characterized by intensely competitive conditions. The number of establishments Is very great, but the number doing a volume of business of $1,000,000 or more is comparatively small. In the main tlie larger houses are found engaged in the manufacture of higher grades of clothing. The naultiplicity of small houses, and the dij3iculty of securing from inadequate records the data required for the mvestigation has made it necessary to secure the information to a great extent from the larger manufacturers. As those are usually the most successful houses, it is only fair to say that the resulting information may perhaps be somewhat more favorable as regards margins for profits than the results would show if complete data were obtained for the entire industry. Owing to the relatively small investment reauired, the industry bas remained largely in the hands of individual and partnerships. Where corporations have been formed, they are in most instances essentially the same as firms, the stockholders being actively engaged in the business. Proprietors or officers are usually found in the more important supervisory positions. Often they are responsible for a large part of the sales. In the case of partnersliips, no salaries are as a rule entered on the books; in the case of corporations, salaries are usually a means of dividing profits and have no necessary relation to the work of the recipient or the volume of business. This intro- duces difficulties in trymg to distinguish between costs and profits, the one being overstated m the case of corporations, the other in the case of firms. In the method of carrying on the manufacturing processes, the cloth- ing industry is characterized by extensive use of tne contract system. Particularly in New York, the typical wholesale clothier can hardly be considered a manufacturer. He purchases the cloth and trimmings. The examining and sponging are attended to for him by an independent concern at a fixed pnce per yard. The material is cut up on his prem- ises, but the actual work or making up the garment is let out to con- tractors at a fixed price. The contractor receives the cut-up material and returns the completed garment. The contractor rents his own factory and employs his own help. The contract system is most largely used in New York, but it exists in every ciotliing center. Firms engaged in the production of higher grades of garments usually manufacture most of their product in their own shops. Few of the firms visited in this investigation, however, made up all of their output in their own establishments. While the contract system is used most exten- sivelv in the production of the cheaper giades of clothing, it is em- ployed in the manufacture of all g{-ad(5 of garmentriJnder the circumstances, it is apparent how difficult is the problem of securing BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 849 . if f u accurately the entire and detailed labor cost involved in the manu- facture oi clothing and how in some cases the only figures available give the total expense connected with the conversion of the material mto the finished product. The factory output which goes under the general term "men's clothing" covers so wide a range of product, that it is difficult to standardize or measure in terms of any units. Most houses produce suits and overcoats. Some speciahze m overcoats or in pants. Oth- ers specialize in youths' or in boys' clothing, and some manufacture raincoats, fancy vests, and bathrobes in addition to regular clothing. Not only is there a variety in the products^ but under suits and over- coats there are found garments varying widely in price. Generally houses are classified according to theirproduction under such headings as cheap, medium, and high grade. 'The first class would include gar- ments sold at wholesale for less than $8 ; the second would include gar- ments sold for as much as $12 or $13. High grade would sell for above these figures. Each of these groups comprises a variety of prices for the same type of garments. For example, a house producing largely cheap garments — suits selling for less than $8 wholesale — may also sell garments for as much as $10 or $12. There are no definite lines of demarcation, ^loreover, garments sold at the same price vary widely in the cost of the cloth used or trimmings, and in the character of the workman- ship and in the style. Different combinations of cloth, linings, and labor are made according to the taste and poUcy of the manufacturer, st3'le, and season. For purposes of comparison emphasis has in this investigation been laid on the regular sack suit. The manufacturers' cost in the ciotliing industry may be arranged under the following heads in the order of their importance: (1) Cloth, (2) manufacturing or making up of the garment, (3) trimming, (4) selling expenses, (5) general expenses. The largest item, except to a small group of manufacturers of very high grade clothing, is the cloth cost. This accounts for approximately two-thirds of the material used, trimmings being the general head for their other materials. These are analyzed elsewhere. The manufacturing expense includes the expense of the cutting room and of the factory. Where there is no factory, the wholesale clothiers' prob lems are much simplified by the employment of con- tractors. Wliere there is a factory, the overhead expense for super- vision, technical and clerical, and for rent and general factory expense, forms a very large addition to the cost in wages of employees who work on the garments. Selling expense constitutes a large element in the wholesalers' cost. These take the form of the expense of salesmen in commissions, salaries, and traveling expenses, and of advertising. The latter is dependent on the policy of the house, some houses reporting a very high cost of advertising, and others spending practically nothing. In all houses, however, selling is largely done through salesmen. Commissions range from 5 to 7 per cent. It is only where the partners are themselves salesmen, that the cost of selling is reduced to a low figure. One reason for the high cost of selling is the fact that the wholesale clothier deals directly with the retailer, jobbing houses being but little used. The general expenses are in no way peculiar to the industry, and require no particular comment. 850 EBPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULB- K. The clothing industry, as at present conducted, is but little con- cerned with foreign trade. The cloths used are ahnost entirely of domestic make. Most houses reported using exclusively American cloths. Only those engaged in the production of high grade clotliing reported using foreign cloths, and tnese estimated their purchases m foreign cloth at no more than 3 or 4 per cent. As compared with the domestic output of the industry, mi(>orts of wearing apparel are n^ligible, and the same may also be said of the exports of American dotiuug. HOW CJLOTHIKO 18 MADE. Next comes the consideration of the production of men's clothing and the detailed processes that enter into it. So far as possible, the steps taken in the process of manufacture are here followed in the order in which they occur. The cloth, and the trimmings to a less degree, are purchased from the mills,* a small proportion is bought through a^nts or jobbing houses. In New York, Baltimore, and Philadelphia there seems to be no freight chai^; in Chicago the freight on material amounts to about one-half of 1 per cent of the material cost. In Rochester the cost of freight is somewhat less. Cloth received is examined and sponged. This is done directly by the manufacturer in the large estabhshments where the wholesale clothier has his own shops. In the smaller establishments cloths are sent to sponging houses for examination and for shrinking. This work is done at so much per yard, the usual charge being 1 cent. Cloth found imperfect is returned and such returns form a considerable per cent of the total purchases. In the process of sponging there is a shrinkage, varying with the character of the material and the process employed. Some houses consider the shrinkage as negligible, others ^gure it at as much as 3.5 per cent. The cost of sponging and examining is figured as low as 2 cents and as high as 10 cents per suit. In no case, however, is it a very serious item of cost. With the material prepared, the next step takes place in the cut- ting and trimming departments of the manufacturer. All manu- facturers cut their cloth on their own premises^ and arrange the cloth and the appmpriato trimmings in bundles to bo sent to the factory of the establisnment or to the contractor for making. Of the essential materials that enter into the garment, most important by far is the cloth. In the ordinary sack suit there is used between 3i and 3| yards of cloth, the cloth being 54 to 56 inches ^vide. The amount used varies according to the pattern and according to style. The usual yardage is 3} yards, of^ which approximately If goes into the coat, 1 J into the pants, and about two-fiftlis into the vest. The short spring and fall overcoats take 2} to 2| yards; a long overcoat is calculated at 2 J to 3 yards. Subsequent analysis willshow the importance of the cloth cost in the total cost of the gar- ment. It is sufficient to say here that the cost of cloth is on the whole the largest single item in the manufacturers' cost. It is only when high-grade clothing is reached that this item of cost is exceeded by the manufacturing expense. The bulk of the clotlis used in ready-made clothing sell net at between 65 cents and about $1.50. Both lower and tigher priced cloths are used. Details of the relation of the cost of cloth to the price of the garment are given in exact figures in a later table. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 851 i i Besides cloth there enters into the production of clothing a great variety of material — woolen, cotton, and linen. An analysis of a coat made by a New York firm to seU at $10.80 net and for winch the consumer pays between $15 and $20 shows that under the head of trimmings Detween 20 and 25 items enter into the manufacture of the coat, 15 mto a pair of pants, and 12 in a vest. Eliminating such items as are the same in each garment, there are included in the trim- mings of a popular priced suit, about 40 items, different either in kind or in price. Of these only a few are significant from the point of view of cost of the finished product. The largest of these items is linings. Under this head the most important are the linings Used for the inside of a coat (exclusive of the sleeves) and for the back of the vest. In most of the clothing, partic- ularly in the medium and high grade suits, this lining is woolen, serge, alpaca, or mohair. From 2 to 2 J yards are used, about one-half a yard being used for the vest, the rest for the coat. Li the moro popular priced overcoats a woolen lining is used, about 2 J yards bemg required. The range of prices for such linings is from 30 cents to 50 cents per yard, some running as high as 75 cents. Thus in a suit selling for $1 1.66 net, a house domg an extensive business put in a body lining costing 75 cents. Another house puts in a suit selfing for $10.80 net a lining costing 65 cents. This linmg is an important item in determining the cost of woolens entering into the garment, and may be estimated at between 5 and 6 per cent of the total cost of the garment. To considerable extent sucn linings are imported. In cheaper garments woolen linings compete with cotton hnings. The omy other woolen material usea is the woolen flannel forming the under collar. This costs less than 5 cents in a popular priced suit. The other linings are of cotton and are used for the sleeves, the inside of the vest, and the pants. The other materials employed are for interlinings, except the buttons, silk, and thread. Most important here is the pad of haircloth and canvas. In better grade garments, linen canvas is used, in cheaper grades cotton. The remaining inter- lining materials are pocketing, silesia, canvas, wigan, tape, etc. As none of these items are at all affected by Schedule K, it is not neces- sary to go into details. The trimmings rank third in the manufacturer's cost and vary with the price of the garment and the policy of the manufacturer, some houses emphasizing the cloth, others the trimmings. The same kind of trimmings is likely to be used in suits varying m price within con- siderable limits. All raanufacturers visited in this inquu-y cut the material and lining on their premises. The cutting cost varies. In cheap and medium priced clothing, the cutting is done by electrical knives, operating on a number of layers of material. In higher priced garments the cut- ting is done by shears, only one or two layers of cloth being cut at one time. The cost of cutting varies from as little as 8 cents to as much as 75 cents or $1 per suit. This includes the trimming — that is, the cutting and arranging of the trimmings that go with the particular suit. From the cutting room, the material arranged in lots and bundles is sent to the factory of the establishment or to its contractors. Coats, pants, and vests are made in shops specializing in the produc- tion of but one class of garments. Overcoats are, however, frequently 852 BEPOKT OP TAKIFF BOAKD ON ^CHEDUO! K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 853 made iip in the same shops as coats. The work is done under varying conditions with wide differences in the subdivisions of the manufac- turing processes and in the character of the workmanship required. The details are elaborately described in the report of the Bureau of Labor on Men's Clothing. Owing to the large extent to which clothing is made up under the contract system it is often impossible to determine the exact labor cost from*^ the records of the manufacturers. The contract price includes overhead manufacturing expenses and the contractor's profit. Both in the manufacturer's shop and where the work is done under contract the labor cost varies, in general with the price of the garment. Tlie greatest variation is, howeier, in the cost of the coat. Even here tlie same price per coat is paid on suits differing in price. Under the contract system the manufacturing cost is con- trolled by assiOTiing dilTerent grades of garments to different con- tractors. Establishments having their own shops, to a considerable extent, follow a similar plan by specializing different shops for par- ticular grades of garments. In establishments conducting their own shops there is in addition to the direct labor cost an overhead factory expense equal to between 20 and 30 per cent of the wages paid. This is for salaries of foremen, superintendents, clerks, miscellaneous labor, rent, light, heat and power, and similar items. Wliere the contract system is employed, the overhead expense is equal to about 10 per cent of the amount paid out for wages and for contract work. The garments are returned from the factory to the stock room for examination, busheling, and kbeling. The :l^ished product is then ready for shipment to the retailer. SCOPE AND METHOD OF IXQFIRY. The investigation of the board concerned itself with the industry in the five leading centers — New York, Chicago, Baltimore, Pliila- delphia, and Rochester. These five cities in 1910 produced approxi- mately $350,000,000 out of a total output for the entire country of $485,000,000. Their proportion was thus not far from three-quarters. In these centers serviceable data were obtained in detail from houses with a combined output of approximately $70,000,000 net. This information was secured from some 40 houses. A very much larger number of houses were visited. From some of these only partial information could be obtained, from others the data required for this investigation could not be secured, chiefly on account of the inadequate character of the records — sometimes because the peculiar character of the business made it undesirable to include the data under standard wliolesale clothing. The largest number of houses studied was in New York. Owing to the smaller average size of the houses here, the volume of the output for the establishments taken forms approximately 10 percent of the total output of the city. In the other cities the output of the houses con- sidered in any center is from one-sixth to over one-half of the total product in their respective cities as reported by the census for 1910. The combined volume of the output for the houses furnishing desired data is more than one-fifth of the clothing produced in the five great clothing cities and one-seventh of the entire output for the country. For the wholesale clothing industry proper, or that portion of it concerned with the production of woolen outer garments, the pro- \ portion made by the houses studied is much higher. The census figures include under men's clothing working clothes and clothing novelties. In general such houses were not considered in this inves- tigation, SimSarly, in order to secure uniformity of treatment in the above figures, there were not included any establishments which manufacture primarily for their own retail trade. Emphasis was laid on the regular wholesale clothing houses in order to secure as far as possible uniform data for all centers. Owing to the importance of children's clothing in New York, attention was given there to that branch of the industry. The investigation sought to obtain data for the industry in two ways. In the first place an analysis was made of the manufacturer's costs, as revealed by his books for a year's volume of business. In the second place, costs were obtained for the production of typical suits, pants, and overcoats. Special attention was given to the data on the year's volume of business. The figures on the basis of the year show more adequately the relative importance of the cloth and material cost as compared with the selling price than any calculations based on typical garments. In such annual figures allowance is made for the fluctuations in the cost of material and of labor and for the varying discounts given and taken. The relation of overhead costs to direct expense can be clearly established only on the basis of a year's expenence. Sudi figures are necessarily taken from the books and reflect actual costs, not calculations. The data for the year are in the main for 1910, In a few instances, where strikes had made that year abnormal, the data for the year 1909 were taken. In securing the data from the books, the items sought were prin- cipally as follows: The material cost, distinguishing (a) cloth from (6) trimmings-; (c) the direct labor cost; (d) the overhead factory costs, showing details for wages and salaries, rent, depreciation, and other expenses; (e) selling costs; and (f) general expense. These items were on the side of expense. On the revenue side the net sales for the year were secured. Owing to the differences in methods of bookkeeping, it was not always possible to secure all the details desired. Not all houses could segregate the cost of their cloth from that of trimmings. The division between labor and overhead manufacturing expense, and again between general expense connected with the factory and the business as a whole, was often made on estimate, so that the totals in such cases are more accurate than the details. Under selling expense was included only items clearly applicable to the sales, such as the expense of salesmen, advertising, and shipping expense. The figures under that head are therefore the minimum cost of effecting sales. Costs were obtained on specimen garments. Agents were instructed to get the figures for garments typical of the product of the firm visited. Emphasis was laid on the three-^iece sack suit, which is the garment most nearly standard. Costs were secured also on over- coats and pants. The items emphasized here were cloth cost, trim- ming cost, and the cost of the various operations in the factory, or tlie total labor cost, showing separately the expense of sponging and examining, cutting and trimming, and making. The data for speci- 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 16 854 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHBDUUB K. men garmente ar© generally for the year 191 1 ; in a few cases they aro for 1910. . . , . X • J. The figures on specimen garments given m this report are m most cases substantiated by data for a year's business.^ In some houses the data are average figures calculated on a year's expenence. In others they are estimated, being the same estimate or calculation which the establishments use in calculating the prices to be charged by salesmen. In such eases they are likely to overstate costs and must be used in connection with the annual figures. Where over- head expense has been added to the cost of material and direct labor, the ratios used have been taken from the yearly figures. METHODS OF PRESENTATION. The data secured has been studied with a view to indicating primarily the importance for the clothing industry of the following items * 1. Cloth and other woolen fabrics. 2. Total material cost. 3. Conversion cost (labor and factory expense). A complete analysis of the data, however, requires the statement of the other items of expense, viz : 4. Selling costs. 5. General expense. . It reveals also a figure which may with certain restrictions be called ^ ft "Profits Not all the schedules secured contained all the data required. Some were too imperfect to be of use, others were affected by abnormal conditions peculiar to the firm. In some cases the total figures were secured, but no adequate analysis could be obtaiijed. Difficulty was experienced in the case of a number of firi^ m securing a segregation of cloth and trimmings costs, many firms carrying no separate accounts for those items. The calculations shomng the relative importance of these items for vanous grades of clothing are based on the data supplied by the estabh^iments furnishing such information. In tlie calculation for cloth cost, there has been taken out the amount realized from rags or cUppings sold. On the whole the item is slight. The information on these points is supplemented by a calculation of the relative importance of the different elements of cost, based on tlie data furmshed for specimen garments. The total material cost could be secured from many firms, where the details could not be secured. In a few cases the amount given for material cost nicludes also some adjustment for changes m the stock of finished goods. Tliis is not, however, of sufiicient moment to disturb the general significance of the figure. ., ^ x i In using the data, it is preferable to lay emphasis on the total conversion cost, rather than on the distinction between direct labor and overhead manufacturing expense. Accounting in the clothing industry is very imperfect, and the distinction between direct and indirect labor is not often made on the books. At best it rests for the most part on estimate. More disturbing a factor is the wide prevalence of the contract system. Many firms do not distinguisli REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIiE K. 855 on their general books wages paid to employees from payments to* contractors. The contract price includes such elements as superin- tendence, rent, and other expense, and is therefore not to be regarded as wages. The relative proportion of contract work and work done in the factory of the establishment is most varied. In the tables drawn up, payments to contractors have been treated in the same way as wages. In such cases, distinction made here between direct labor and overhead expense obviously loses significance, and only the total figure for conversion cost can be relied upon. The item of greatest significance is the total cost of the manufac- tured garment at the factory. This figure would be the basis of comparison for American ana foreign costs. Other expenses would presumably have to be incurred by any foreign producer, who sought to place his product with American consumers. He would have to undergo similar expenses in employing salesmen, in advertising, and in conducting a general office. From anotner point of view the factory cost is the most significant item. The total expenditures for cloth and conversion expense, show a most remarkable uniformity for the different producers. This is easily intelligible. The manufacturer deals here with factors over which he has, comparatively speaking, only limited control, the price paid for his materials, and the price paid for labor. The expenses to be incurred in making sales are more readily shaped according to the manufacturer's policy, and accordingly show great variation. The same applies in a lesser degree to the general expense which is incurred by the establishment as a whole and which can not be readily apportioned to one or another division of the business. Selling costs are here strictlv defined so as to include only such items as are directly connected with sales. These are the salaries, commissions and travehng expenses of salesmen, advertising and the minor items connected with sliipping and collections. The most vari- able item here is, of course, advertising. Some houses spend as much as 4 and even 5 per cent of their net receipts from sales for advertising, many spend substantially nothing. The expense of salesmen varies very widely, largely because some estabhshments have a large house trade, or effect most of their sales tlirough members of the firm. As a result, what appears as expense in one case, appears as profits in another. General expense calls for Uttle comment except that under this head corporations often include large amounts nominally for salaries, actually for a division of profits. As the majority of concerns dealt with in this investigation are firms, in wliich no allowance is made for partners' salaries, for purposes of uniformity, officers' salaries are Ignored under expenses and treated as profits. From general expense there was further omitted allowances for interest on capital of the partners, or on the bonds of corporations, or on loans. The reason for this is that such items have no direct rela- tion to the volume of business, but aro dependent on the extent and character of the investment. No attempt was made in this investi- gation to find out the relation of profits to the investment. An attempt in tliis direction would have been attended with too many difficulties. Similarly no allowance was made under general expense for losses through bad debts. Tliis, too, is an item that has no direct relation to the volume of business; and shows wide variation among different 856 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDFUB K. houses. On the whole it is not of much sigmficanee. The other charges under the head of general expense require little comment. The chief items are rent for general office, stock and show rooms; wages and salaries of the office staff and general employees; sta- tionery, and miscellaneous items. . , , , .^ ,. , , . In presenting the data the pnnciple of classification employed is the grade of output. Classifications according to cities is neither desirable nor feasible. The classification adopted is attended with considerable difficulty, owing to the absence of clear demarcations. As already noted, the output of firms covers often a wide range of prices. The average price of garments as stated by the firm or as calculated from information given as to the number of garments sold, has been used as a guide. On this basis houses have been grouped according to the average price of garments as follows: 1 . S8 or less. 3. $15 and over. , ,.^ . ^ , The last group subdivides itself into two subgroups, dilTerentiated not so much in the average price of their product, as in the dilference in emphasis on style and workmanship as compared with the material. A classification along the lines of these groupings is in part also a classification along geographical lines. Thus Rochester and Clucago firms are found principaUv under the second and third heads, Fhila- delphia and Baltimore under the first two heads, New York is repre- sented under each division, but it is more largely represented under the first and second groups. Outside of th^se groupings the special order houses and the manufacturers of children s clothmg are dealt with separately. , , For comparison aU items of expense are reduced to ratios ofthe net seUing price, to facilitate the handhng of the information. Ihis follows trade usage, in which calculations are related to selling prices rather than costs. The absolute amounts are given in tables where this can be done without revealing the source of information, and also their equivalents stated as per cents of the selling price. The data secured are summed up in the tables pnnted below. ANALYSIS OF COSTS, ON THE BASIS OF THE YEAELY FIGUBES ACCORDING TO GRADES OF CLOTHING. The tables anal vzing costs on the basis of data for a year's business show for each gracle of clothing the relative cost of cloth, trimmings, manufacturing or conversion expense, selling expense, general expense, and profits as defined above. As printed below they give the totals for different grades of clo tiling; the details for estabhshments can not be given without danger of reveahng confidential information. In Table 4 the data are for all wholesale houses here considered. In Table 5 the data are for those houses whose records showed separately the cost of cloth and of trimming. .„ , .. i • Convenient summaries of these tables will be found in connection with the analysis of the data here presented. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, Table 4. — Cost of nianitfactunng clothing — mens^ clothing, 1910. [Data for wholesale eatablishmcats visited.] 857 Items. Cheap (S8and under). 1 Medium ($8to$15).i High grade ($15 and over).* Specialty. Children. Special order. Total. Cla«w A. a Class B.* Net sales $8,792,819 5,117,003 $16,399,732 9,008,067 $25,190,729 13,603,273 $8,218,207 3,762,859 $1,696,657 867,722 $3,382,373 $5,262,169 $68,942,686 Material cost 1,924,918 2,355,714 36,639,556 Manufa c t u r i n g cost: Direct labor ' Factory expense 1,830,197 113,605 3,919,909 509,491 6,046,150 1,247,374 2,198,907 428,061 189,722 103,0.59 817,791 100,896 1,244,809 214,387 16,247,485 2,716,873 Total manu- lactiiring ex- pense Total cost of man- ufactured cloth- ing. 1,943,802 7,060,805 + 224,821 4,429,400 13,437,407 -10,160 7,293,524 20,896,797 -526,700 2,626,968 6,389,827 -176,061 292,781 1,160,503 + 131,076 918,687 2,843,605 -3, 179 1,459,196 3,814,910 55,603,914 Increase or de- crease during year in stock of finished goods. . . —360,203 Cost of clothing sold 7,285,626 13,427,307 20,370,097 6,213,766 1,291,579 2,840,426 3,814,910 55,243,711 General expense: SeUing expense. . Overhead ex- pense 376,870 276,327 1,053,207 611.630 1,594,342 939.607 584,292 328,966 20(),02] 93.217 178,025 152,890 021,063 404,594 4,613,880 2,807,231 Total gener- al expense . 653,197 1,664,897 2,533,949 913,258 299,238 330,915 1,025,657 7,421,111 Total cost.. - Profit* 7,938,823 853,996 15,092,204 1,307,528 22,904,040 2,286,683 7,127,024 1,091,183 1.590,817 105,840 3,171,341 211,032 4,840,567 421,602 62,664,^22 6,277,864 > For average price of garment sold. » These are two classes of the same grade of clothing. They are distinguished not so much by selling price as by the relative emphasis on cloth and material cost (Class A) as contrasted with workmanship and the consequent labor cost (Class J3). « This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. * Profit is used here to denote the balance after deducting the items specified. It does not represent net profit as from the amoimt shown must be deducted such items as salaries of officers, compensation for eervioes of members of firm, interest on capitei invested or borrowed, and bad debts. Table 4 presents the data for houses disposing of $70,000,000 of clothing a year. Tliis is the net amount received after deducting all discounts and allowances. For most houses the discount, which is often as high as 10 per cent, would average about 7 per cent. ^ A few houses sell net. The volume of sales shown for any of the different classes of clothing is not to be taken as representative of its impor- tance in the industry. Thus the relative importance of cheap clothing is probably greater than would appear frona this table; on the other hand, the importance of high-grade clothing is undoubtedly less. Owing to the fact that very much cheap clothing is made by small firms, keeping inadequate records, it was much more difficult to secure adequate information for a large volume of cheap clothing than for high-grade clothing. The latter is manufactured more extensively by large estabhshments keeping records from which the necessary information was readily obtainable. Table 5, printed below, is restricted to estabhshments whose records showed specificallv the cost of cloth used during the year in manu- facturing. The data are for estabhshments selHng $50,000,000 of clothing a year. This table allows for a determination of the relative 858 REPOBT OF TAEITF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. importance of cloth among the costs of the manufacturer. Wliik covering a smaller volume of product, the data presented in this table are ample to show the importance of cloth for every grade of clothing produced. Table 5.— Cost of manufacturing clothing — Men's clothing — 1910. [Data for establishments showing Beparately cost of cloth and cost of Irimmings.l Xtoins. Cheap (18 and iinder).i Ifediom (18 to High grad« (tl5 and over).» Children. Special order. TotaL Class A.« Class B.« Net sales 17,049,554 f7,335,919 125,190,729 !$S,659,307 $1,525,323 $3,394,483 $50,155,315 Material cost: Cloth TriTTiminps , 3.199,386 935,810 2.765,636 1,284,081 631 8,803,488 4, 745. 592 54,193 l.473.2';2 877.212 16. 875 535,402 262,008 1,338 1,127,761 332, 108 4,603 17.904,W5 8,436,811 Freight' 77,730 Total material expense. . 4, 135, 196 4,050,348 13.603.273 2,367,359 798,748 1,464,562 26.419,486 Manufactturlng cost: Direct labor * 1,428,717 76,971 1,738.649 247,324 6.046.1.50 1.247.374 1,578,977 278.061 392,526 44,141 876,517 137.650 12.061.536 Factory expense 2.031,521 Total mannfacturing expense 1,505,688 1,985,973 7,293,524 1,857.038 436.667 1.014,167 14,093,057 T<»tal cost of manufac- tured clothing 5,640,884 6,036.321 -141,522 20.896,797 1,224.397 1.23,'>,415 -3,179 2,478,729 40,512,543 Increase or decrease during year in stock of finishea goods. -f-210, 721 -528, 700 +85.439 -375,241 Cost of dothing sold 5,851,605 5,894,799 20.370,097 4.309.836 1.232,236 2, 478. 729 40.137,302 Ck^nnral exi)^isp: Selllns cxDense 272,536 215, 258 499,728 283,607 1,594,342 939,607 492, 792 182, 776 118, 100 79,767 629,635 291,260 3.507,131 OTerhead expense 1,992,275 Total general expenae. . . 487.794 783,333 2,533,949 675,568 197,867 820,895 5, 499, 406 Total cost 6,339.399 710, 155 6, 678. 132 657,787 22,904,046 3,»},e83 4,985,404 673,903 1,430,103 3,299.624 94,859 45,636,708 Profits 4,518,007 t For average price of garment sold. ^ , . ^ ^ ^ ^ ^. ,„ _, « These are two classes of t he same grade of clothing. They are distinguished not so much by scllUig price as by the relative emphasis on cloth and material cost (Class A) as contrasted with workmanship and the consequent labor cost (Class B). . . ._. ^ , xi. • Data not shown completely imder this heading. Some firms diarge freight to general expoise; others add it to cost of material. . ... ^ .,. ^ ,x . ^ » *u^ « This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garmenla. 6 Profit is used here to denote the balance after deducting the items specitied. It does not represent net profit, as from the amount shown must be deducted such items as salaries at officers, compensation for services of members of firm, interest on capital invested or borrowed and bad debts. Attention is called to a few of the items in the above tables. In Table 4 freight is included in material cost. In Table 5 it is shown separately where reported. The data on this point is not complete, some houses adding it on to the cost of material ; others entenng it under general expense. Owinff to the fact that the volume of the clothing produced and that sold in the given vear is not identical, Tables 4 and 5 show separately the cost of stoclk manufactured, and the cost of the stock sold. Tlie latter figure is obtained by adding to the stock manufactured m the year, or subtracting from it the difference between the stock of finished goods (including goods in process) at the beginning of the year and that at the close. It is necessan^ to emphasize again the meaning of the term profit as here used, ft is a figure arrived at before deducting salaries of officers or any compensation for the serviced of partners, and before making BEPOfiT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 859 I any allowances for bad debts, or for interest on the capital invested or on money borrowed. To facihtate the study; of the information contained in Tables 4 and 5 the data contained in them are in the following tables expresseci in comparable terms, viz, as percentages of the sellii^ price. la other words, there is here shown the disposition of the receipts from the sale of a year's production — ^how much goes for cloth and for other materials; how much for labor and for factory expense; how much is spent in commissions to salesmen, in advertising, and in other incidental selling expense, and in the general expense of the business; and what remains to the proprietors or stockholders to recompense them for their o\\ti personal services, and for the capital they have put in or borrowed, and for incidental losses. These items of expense may be compared for the different grades of clothing. Table 6 and Table 7 are complementary tables to Tables 4 and 5, respectively. Table 6 gives the data for all wholesale houses here studied; Table 7 gives the data for all houses showing separately the cost of cloth and the cost of other material v«ed in the industry. Table 6.— Cost of imnufacturing clothing, 1910~Data for wholesale establishments visited. [Items of cost expressed as per cents cf net selling price.] It^ms Cheap («8and un- der).! Me- dium mto tl5).i High Grade ($15 and over).i Spe- cialty. Chil- dren. Special order. aass A.2 Class B.8 Total. Net sales 100.0 GO.l 100.0 54.9 100.0 52.7 100.0 44.5 100.0 56.9 100.0 56.9 100.0 44.8 100.0 52.8 Uaterial cost Manufacturing cost: Direct labor » 21.5 1.3 23.9 3.1 23.3 4.9 36.0 5.1 12.4 6.8 24.2 2.9 23.7 4.0 23.4 3.9 Factory exjjense Total manufacturing eipense . . 22.8 27.0 28.2 31.1 19.2 27.1 27.7 27.3 Total cost of manufactured clothing * 82.9 81.9 80.9 75.6 76.1 84.0 72.5 80.1 General expense: Helling expense 4.3 3.1 6.4 3.7 6.3 3.7 7.1 4.0 12.1 5.5 5.3 4.5 11.8 7.7 6.7 4.1 Overhead expense Total general exi>en&e 7.4 10.1 10.0 11.1 17.6 9.8 19.5 10.8 Total cost 90.3 9.7 92.0 8.0 90.9 9.1 86.7 13.3 93.7 6.3 93.8 6.2 92.0 8.0 Profit* 90. if 9. 1 » For average price of garment sold. « These are two classes of the same grade of clothing. They are distinguished not so much by selline price as by the relative emphasis on cloth and material cost (Class A) as contrasted with workmanship and the consequent labor cost (Class B). *^ 8 1 his entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor m the cuttmg room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments Jin making these percentape tables it has been assumed that the elements of cost in sKxk of finished ^ods broueht forward from the preoedmg year is the same as in stock manufactured during the vear From the details of cost for goods manufactured during the year there is added or subtracted a propor- tional amount for increase or decrease of stock as shown by the inventories of finished goods at the bekn- nmg and close of the year. In this way an adjustment is made between the output for the vear in manu- factured garments and sales for the year. "^ ^ * '• l»roflt " is used here to denote the balance after deducting the items specified. It does nat represent net profit, as from the amount shown must bo deducted such items as salaries of officers, compensation lor services of members of firm, interest on capital invested or borrowed, and bad debts. Analysis of the information obtained in this investigation reveals the fact that in all the houses studied the cost of materials entering into clothing is equel to 53 per cent of the selling price. The expense 860 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD 0^ SCHEDULE K. connected with converting the material into garment® absorbs over one-fourth of the amount for which these are sold. As the garment leaves the factory they have cost the manufacturer 80 per cent of the price for which they are sold. Marketing the product absorbs 7 per cent in commission to salesmen, advertising, and incidental selling expenses. The general expenses of running the business absorbs 4 per cent more. The manufacturer has left about 9 per cent from which he may deduct losses through bad debts and reim- burse himself for services of partners or oflficers and for the capital invested or borrowed for the business. This figure for profit, it should be borne in mind, is not a percentage of either capital or investment, but of net receipts for the year — receipts with all dis- counts and allowances out. The cost of cloth used in making men's clothing is the additional information essential to this investigation sho^^Ti in the following table. Tlie data are for houses that show separately the cost of cloth and the cost of other material (see Table 5, to which this table corresponds), and the records of which are more adequate for the purpose of this investigation. Table 7.— Cost of manufacturing clothing 1910— Data for establishmenU showing separately co'^t of cloth and cost of trimmings, [Items of cost ecpressed as per cents of net selling price.l * Cheap ($8 and under).* Medi- um ($S to$15).> High grade (115 and over). I Chil- dren. Special order. Total. Items. Class Class N et Sales 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Material cost: Clot h 47.1 13.7 36.8 17.1 34.1 18.4 .2 26.6 15.8 .3 35.0 17.1 .1 33.2 9.8 .1 35.4 Triniminirs. 1&6 Freight *. .2 Total (». 8 53.9 52.7 42.7 52.2 43.1 52.2 Manufacturing cost: Direct labor *. 21.0 1.2 23.2 3.3 23.4 4.8 28.5 5.0 25.7 2.9 25.8 4.1 23.8 Factory exDcnse 4.0 Total Tnairmfafturinf? e'ti>f tvs- ■ 22.2 26.5 28.2 33.5 28.6 29.9 27.8 Total cost of manufactured clothing •. . . 83.0 80.4 80.9 76.2 80.8 73.0 80.0 General overhead expense: Selline expense 3.9 3.0 6.8 3.9 e:3 3.7 8.7 3.2 7.8 5.2 15.6 8.6 7.0 ' icnerai excense 4.0 Total 6.9 10.7 10.0 11.9 13.0 24.2 11.0 Total cost 89.9 10.1 91.1 8.9 90.9 9.1 88.1 11.9 93.8 6.2 97.2 2.8 91.0 Profl t « 9.0 » For average price of garment sold. , , ... 2 These are two classes of the same grade of clothing. They are distinguished not so much by seUing price as by the relative emphasis on cloth and material cost (Class A) as contrasted with workmanship and the consequent lal)or cost (Class B). « The data is not showTi c-ompletely under this head, some firms charging freight to general expense, others adding it to the cost of the material. * This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. « In making these percentage tables it has been assumed that the elements of cost in stock of finished goods brought forward from the preceding year is the same as in stock manufactured during the year. From the details of cost for goods manufactured during the year there is added or subtracted a propor- tional amount for increase or decrease of stock as shown by the inventories of finished goods at the begin- ning and close of the year. In this way an adjustment is made between the output for the year in manu- factured garments and the sales for the year. .„ , ,x , • Profit is uaefl here to denote the balance after deducting the items specified. It does not represent net profit as from the amount shown must be deducted such items as salaries of officers, oompeusation for servicea of members of finn, interest on capital invested or borrowed, and bad debts. KEPORT OF TARIFF BO.^IID ON SCHEDULE K. 861 I The cost of cloth entering into men's clothing is equal to more than one-third of the selling price, the cost of the other material is one-sixth. The total material cost is over one-half. The other details of cost revealed by this table are the same as in the foregoing. The close conformity of the percentages for the items of expense in the two tables, make it very evident that the establishments repre- sented in this table are characteristic of all the establishments investigated, and that the cloth costs as found here apply grade for grade to the industry as a whole. More significant than these generalizations, are differences in the relative importance of various elements in cost for different grades of clothing. An analysis of the information secured for various classes of garments yields these general results: (1) The material cost forms a larger proportion of the selling price in lower grade clothing than in liigher priced clothing. (2) The cloth cost similarly forms a higher per cent of the selling price in cheaper clothing than in the more expensive varieties. (3) In compensation for the lower relative cost of cloth in the finer grades of clothing, better trimmings are used and more labor. (4) Except in very high grade clothing, the factory cost of the product, i. e., expenditures for cloth, trimmings and for labor and other factory expenses are equal to approximately 80 per cent of the seUing price. For a small group of manufacturers of very high grade clotmng the factory cost is about 75 per cent. It appears that in cheaper clothing the margin between seUing price and fac- tory cost is somewhat lower than in higher priced clotliing. From the point of view of the present investigation the most significant facts revealed are those showing the cloth cost. This varies from 49.6 per cent for an establishment in which the produc- tion of pants was very important, and 46.5 per cent for a house manufacturing only suits, to 26 per cent for houses producing the highest grades of clothing. In onlv a very few houses was the cloth cost less than one-third. These houses produced about one-sixth of the volume of clothing here studied, but this represents an undue proportion of such clothing made. For the bulk of clothing the cloth cost is nearer to 40 per cent of the amount reahzed from sales. The cloth cost does not represent the total cost of the woolens entering into the manufacture of a suit. Next to the cloth, the woolen lining is the most important item in costs. It appears that woolen linings are used in suits sold from about $7.50 and up wholesale. From the data available on the cost of linings, and the yardage used, the cost of such linings per suit would be equal to fuUy from 5 to 6 per cent of the wholesale selling price. The average woolens cost of clothing may therefore be estimated at about 40 per cent for the total value considered and about 45 per cent for the more popular grades of clothing sold. CLOTH COST. Grouping the establishments according to the grade of clothing, the following are the significant features: For manufacturers whose product sells for $8 or less wholesale, the total material cost is about 60 per cent of the seUing price, the cloth cost is in excess of 40 per cent. Manufacturers in tne grades above this, whose product sells KEPORT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDrUS K. at from $8 to about $15, report a material cost of about 55 per cent, and a cloth cost of from 35 per cent to 40 per cent. Manufacturers of high-grade clothing report a sliglitly lower material cost and tho cloth cost is approximately 35 per cent. A small subgroup here reports a material cost of 42 per cent, and a cloth cost of between 26 per cent and 29 per cent. The importance of the results revealed by this analysis Ues in the fact that m the popular lines of clothing — suits and overcoats seUing at retail for less than $20 and $25 — ^the material used costs between 50 per cent and 60 per cent of the net wholesale sellii^price, and the cloth used absorbs fully 40 per cent of such price. The clothing to which this generalization appHes constitutes the bulk of tho clothing sold. Less attention need bo given to tho items of trimmings. On all clothing trimmings absorb 14 per cent to 18 per cent of the selling price. In high-grade clothing selMng on the average for about $15 to $16 wholesale, the ratio is 18 to 19 per cent. Relative to the cost of cloth, however, tho c<)st of trimmings increases with the cost of the garments. Factory labor and factory expenses are equal to about 22 per cent on cheaper grades of garments, i. e., garments selling wholesale at an average of $8 or less. In tlie grades above, or garments selling at wholesale for $10 to $15, tho factory cost is over 25 per cent. For high-grade clothing it is nearer to 30 per cent. In these percentages of the selhng price here given as expended in the factory, there aro included not only wages, out also salaries, rent, factory supplies, and other incidental expenses. While the distinction between direct labor and factorv expense as used here is nob too significant, the increasmg ratio for factory expense reflects the fact that the higher grade garments are made in inside siiops, and involve a greater expense for supervision, whereas cheaper garments are more exten- sively contracted out and involve a smaller general expense on part of tho wholesaler. For special-order clothing the situation is different from that for regular clotliing. There the total material cost for the houses taken is between 43 and 48 per cent, tlie cloth cost is one-tliird of the selling price. The ratios on children's clotliing do not seem to be different from men's clothing, taken as a w hole. In the details of costs, the figures showing the manufacturing cost of clothing — the expenditures for material and for conversion costs — are of particular interest. They vary less for tho different classes of garments tlian the other elements of cost and show for diiferent types of establishments a fairly constant margin of about 20 per cent from which selling costs, general expenses, and profits must be taken. The following tables show the relative importance of cloth and material cost, on the basis of the cost of the product as it leaves the factory, or reaches the manufacturer from his sliops, or from contractors. Table 8 gives data for all establishments investi- gated; Table 9 for establishments reporting the cost of cloth used during the year. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 863 Table 8. — Cost of manufacturing clothing, 1910, factory costs (material, direct labor and factory expense) — Data for all wholesale establishments. [Items of cost expressed as per cents of total factorv costs.] Items. Cheap (18 and under).! Me- dium ($8 to $15).i High grade ($15 and over).* Spe- cialty. Chil- dren. Special order. Totals. Class A.2 CIas,3 B.« - Total cost, manufactured clothing 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Material cost 72.5 67.0 65.1 58.9 74.8 67.7 61.8 65.9 Manufacturing cost: Direct labor ' 25.9 1.6 29.2 3.8 28,9 6.0 34.4 6.7 16.3 8.9 28.8 3.5 32.7 5.5 29.2 Factory expense 4.9 Total 27.6 33.0 34.9 41.1 25.2 32.3 38.2 34.1 » For average price of garment sold. * These are two classes of the same grade of clothing. They are distinguished not so much by selling price as by the relative emphasis on cloth and material cost (class A), as contrasted with workmanship and the consequent labor cost (class B). ' » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands lor tha direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. As between material and labor, including with labor overhead factory expense, the former absorbs approximately two-thirds of the factory cost of clothing, the latter one-third. On cheap clothing material is most significant, accounting for nearly three-fourths of the bare factory cost of making garments. The following: table shows, in addition to the above facts, the importance of cloth: Table 9. — Cost of manufacturing clothing, 1910, factory costs (cloth, trimmings, direct labor and factory expense) — Data for estahlishTnents showing separately cost of cloth and cost of trimmings. [Items of cost expressed as per cents of total factory costs.] Items. Cheap ($8 and under).' Me- dium ($8 to $15).i • High grade ($15 and over).i Chil- dren. Special order. Total. Class A.2 Class B.« Total cost manufactured clothing 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Material cost: Cloth 56.7 16.6 45.8 21.3 42.1 22.7 .3 34.9 20.7 .4 43.3 21.2 .1 45.5 13.4 .1 44.2 Trimmings 20.8 Freight* .2 Total 73.3 67.1 65.1 56.0 64.6 59.0 65 2 Manufacturing cost: Direct labor* 25.3 1.4 28.8 4.1 28.9 6.0 37.4 6.6 31.8 3.6 35.3 5.7 29 a Factory expense 5 Total 26.7 32.9 34.9 44.0 35.4 41.0 34 8 » For average price of garment sold. « These are two classes of the same grade of clothing. They are distinguished not so much bv spiling price Hshy the relative emphasis on cloth and material cost (class A), as contrasted with workinauiihip and the con.sequent labor cost (class B). * The data is not shown completely under this head, some firms charging freight to general expense, others adding it to tlie cost of the material. * This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. 864 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. As the above table indicates, cloth is responsible for 44 per cent of the factory cost of clothing; other materials are less than one-half as important as cloth. On ehoap clothing the cost of cloth is approxi- mately 57 per cent of the total factory cost. Attention is called to one otherlai^ge item of cost to the clothmg manufacturer — that of marketing his products. Examination of Tables 6 and 7 shows that for the different grades of clothing the cost of selling is from 4 per cent to 7 per cent. This is for regular whole- sale clothing. On special-order clothing and where individual gar- ments are handled,* the selling cost is naturally very much higher. The same is also true of such clothing specialties as are not sold in large lots. It will be observed, further, tnat the selling cost tends to increase with the grade of clothing sold. The high cost of selling clothing is due to the fact that so much of it is sold through agents receiving commissions or salaries. It is only where most of the selling is done by members of the estabhshment that the cost of selling is reduced to a small fraction of the price of the garments handled. . In concluding this analvsis of manufacturers* costs, it is well to point out again that therels no basis of measuring the significance of the figures for profits as shown here. The figures can not be related to investment. Satisfactory data on this point could not have been obtamed without great difficulties, if at all. With the active man- agement of the enterprises in the hands of partners or officers of cor- porations, very little if at all different from firms, it is impossible to distinguish between compensation for services and profits available for return on capital. ANALYSIS OF MANUFACTURERS* COSTS AS REPORTED FOR SPECIMEN GARMENTS — MEN's CLOTHING. The information summarized above on the basis of information for B, year's business is satisfactory as regards the accuracy of the data. It is, however, difficult to reduce in terms of definite priced garments. "From, the data supphed for individual garments a tabulation has been made showing w£at proportion of the amount paid by the retailer for any suit is expended on cloth, on trimmings, and on direct labor (wages or contract price). Attention is here called to the varying character of the entry in the table for direct labor. For some houses it represents bare wages, exclusive of the cost of supervision, rent, and other expenses. For others it stands for contract price. In no event does it represent the entire conversion cost. The figure in the column for direct labor must be used, bearing in mind its Imitations. With tliis reservation, it is a valuable indication of the most important item after cloth entering into the manufacture of clothing. The detailed table printed below shows such costs for aU grades of garments, these being arranged according to then- net wholesale sell- mg price. The information is intended as a supplement to the data based on the year's business showing as it does the same facts in a more concrete way. For convenience in studying the detailed tabulation, a brief sum- mary of it is placed first. In this table the average wholesale price is shown for cheap clothing, medium and higher grades of clothing. BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 865 and an estimated retail price, assuming the latter to be about 50 per cent in excess of the wholesale price. The elements of cost are shown in absolute amount, and again as percentages of the selling Srice. In using the table it is to be remembered that the figures o not show the total costs. Overhead manufacturing costs, selling, and general expense are here omitted, as the prime purpose of the table is to show the importance of cloth, trimmings, and factory wages (or contract price). Table 10. — Analysis of costs of typical suits, overcoats, and pants — Average price for various grades. Type of garment and range of net wholesale selling price. Suits: Under 18.... S8 to $11.99.. 112 to $14.99. $15 to $19.99. Overcoats: Under $8 $8 to $11.99... $12 to $14.99. $15 to $19.99.. Pants: $2 to $2.49... $2J)0 to $2.99 , $3 to $4 Esti- matod retail price.i $10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00 3.50 4.00 5.00 Whole- sale net price. $C. 48 10.16 13.48 16.93 7.17 9.85 13.46 17.12 2.25 2.72 3.40 Cloth cost. $2.65 3.80 4.80 5.67 2.29 2.84 3.94 5.28 1.10 1.50 2.00 Trim- mings cost. $1.18 1.92 2.42 2.77 1.73 2.44 3.37 3.98 .19 .20 .25 Total mate- rial cost. $3.83 5.72 7.22 8.44 4.02 5.28 7.31 9.26 1.29 1.70 2.25 Direct labor.2 $1.55 2.67 3.51 4.64 1.63 2.23 3.47 3.77 .46 .54 .58 rer cent of wholesale net price. Cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. 40.9 37.4 35.6 37.4 3P9 28.8 29.3 30.8 48.9 54.8 58.8 18.2 18.9 18.0 16.4 24.1 24.8 25.0 23.2 8.4 7.3 7.3 Total mate- rial cost. 59.1 56.3 53.6 49.9 56.1 63.6 54.3 64.1 57.3 62.1 66.2 Direct labor. 23.9 26.3 26.0 27.4 22.7 22.6 25.8 22.0 20.4 19.5 17.1 1 Estimate based on the assumption that retail prices are 50 per cent above wholesale prices. « This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount i)ald to contractors for making up the garments. In cheap clothing averaging m price $6.50 at wholesale and $10 at retail, the cloth cost is 41 per cent, the trimming cost 18 per cent, the total material cost 59 per cent. In the next grade, averaging about $10 wholesale and $15 retail, cloth cost is 37 per cent, trim- ming cost 19 per cent. In garments selling for $13.50 wholesale and $20 retail, cloth cost is 35 per cent, trimmings cost 18 percent. In high-grade clothing, selling at $17 wholesale and $25 retail, cloth cost is one-third, and trimmings one-sixth. As compared with cheap clothing, the material cost is 10 per cent less. These results are on average figures. It is of interest to note that in clothing sold from $9 and upward there are two classes, one empha- sizing cloth and material, the other the less tangible quahties of gar- ments. Thus on garments seUing at between $9 and $12 and aver- aging about $10.50, one class shows a cloth cost of 41 per cent as against 29 for the other. The respective material costs are 59 and 60 per cent. On the grade above — ^garments selling on the average for $13.50 — the cloth cost is 40 per cent in one group, and 34 per cent in the other. The material costs are, respectively, 57 and 49 per cent. The interesting feature here is the large variation in cloth cost for suits selhng at the same price. This phase will be taken up from another point of view in greater detail. For overcoats and pants a similar table has been constructed. The interesting point to be observed is that for overcoats the cloth 866 KEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDFLB K. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD OK SCHEDULE K. 867 cost is less important tlian for suits, bein^ equal to 30 per cent for all grades. On the other hand, the material cost for various grades is not very different than for suits, trimmings being very much more important on overcoats. On the cheaper grades of overcoats woolen linmgs are used, so that the woolen cost is higher than appeara at fiist sight. On higher-priced overcoats silk linings are used. On pants the cloth cost is 50 per cent of tlie sefling price on cheap pants and mofe on higher gracles. Trimmings are of slight impor- tance, and contain no woolen materials. Another view of the material summarized above may be had from the fuDer and more detailed analysis of the data as presented in the following table. Here all tlie information for specimen garments selling within the limits of $1 has been combined and averaged. This method of treatment affords a view of the costs for all grades of garments, arranged in order of their net wholesale selling price from under $5 to $25. Table 11 gives the averages for selling price and for the various elements of cost. A column is here added snow- ing the retail selling prices corresponding to the ascertained whole- sale prices. Tliis is based on an assumption that retail selling prices are 50 per cent in excess of the retailers' cost, or the wholesale price. Table 12 gives, for purposes of comparison, the details of cost expressed as percentages of the net wholesale selling price. Table lla. — Analysis of cost of typical »mta for different arades of clothing — Average mil- ing price and costs — Summary in dollar classes. lAnsasbd in order of net seUioc price from unfte |S to «25 per garment.] Bange of n»t wbolesiile selling .price. Under $5 Sato 15.99... •6 to f 6.99.... •7 to 17.99-.-. tStot».99... 99 to 19.99... SlOtoSIO.99. iU to 111.99. $12 to $12.99. $13toiia.99. S14toS14.99. S15 to 115.99. t16 to $16.99. tl7totl7.99. S18toflK99. SI9to919J9. Net wholesale selling I^ice. $20 to 120.99 $21 to $21.99 $22 to $22.99 $23 to $23.99 $24 to $24.99 SUMMART OP TOTAI.& tTnder $fi $8 to $11.99 $12 to $14.99.... $15 to $19.99. . . . $ao and over — St. 13 6.64 7.m 8.40 9.37 10.30 11.54 12.44 13.64 14. 47 15.31 16.43 17.32 18.48 19.52 20.24 21.50 22.59 «4. lu 0.48 10. 16 13. 4B 16. i» 21.96 Esti- mated retail pcice.t Total dOtllDOSt. fB.OO 8.00 10.00 12.00 13.00 14.00 16.00 17.00 19 00 21.00 22.00 $1.56 2.39 2.m 3.16 3.37 3.71 3.77 4.05 4.SS 4.97 6.11 23.00 5.13 2S.00 5.73 26.00 6.70 28.00 6.13 29.00 6.M 30.00 7.90 33,00 7.31 34.00 8.42 35.00 9.02 37.00 8.11 10.00 2.65 16.00 3.80 20.00 4.80 25.00 5.67 33.00 8.14 Trlm- minp^s cost. Total material 80.03 1.07 1.26 1.34 1.67 1.80 1.95 2.16 2.34 2.40 2.52 158 2.88 2.73 2,88 3.10 3. 15 2.94 3.31 3.11 3.26 Direct latiar OOBt.* 82.21 3.40 3.91 4.50 4.94 6.51 5.72 0.20 6.69 7.37 7.63 7.71 8.61 8.43 9.01 9.44 11.06 10.25 11.75 12. 13 11.37 Total cost of mate- rial and direct labor. 1.18 3.83 1.92 6.72 2.42 7.22 2.77 a 44 3.14 11.28 $1.00 1.40 1.55 1.79 1.94 2.41 2.72 3.17 3.31 3.60 3.65 4.30 4.81 4.91 4.55 6.00 4.68 ^ w§ 6.74 4.87 6.08 1.55 2.07 3.51 4.04 5.11 $3.21 4.92 5.46 6.29 6.88 7.92 8.44 9.37 10.00 10.97 11.28 12.01 13.42 Ail* «VV 13.56 14.60 15.73 15.24 17.49 17.00 17. 4» 5.3S 8.39 10.73 13.08 16.39 1 Estimate based on the assumption that retail prices are 50 per cent above wholesale price. « This entry represents dirett labor where the manufatturer has his own shops; otlierwise it stMids for tbe direct labor in the cutting room phxs the amount paid to contractors for maMng up the garments. ) Table lib. — Analysis of costs of typical overcoats for different grades of clothing — Aver- age selling price ami costs — Summary in dollar classes. [Arranged In order of net selling price from $6 to over $25 per garment.] Range of net wholesale selling price. $6 to $6.99. $7 to $7.99 $8 to $8.99 $9 to $9.99 $10 to $10.99 $11 to $11.99 $12 to $12.99 $13 to $13.99 $14 to $14.99 $15 to $15.99 $16 to $16.99 $18 to $18.99 $19 to $19.99 $22 to $22.99 $23 to $23.99 $25 and over SUMMARY OF TOTALS. Under $8 i8 to $11.99 $12 to $14.99 $15 to $19.99 320 and over Net wholesale selling price. $6.73 7.62 8.64 9.39 10.26 11.35 12.42 13.8,5 14.69 15.01 16.42 18.30 19. 4G 22.76 23.25 34.41 7.17 9.85 13. 46 17.12 20.80 Esti- mated retail price.i Total cloth cost. $10.50 12.00 13.00 14.25 16.00 17.00 19.00 21.00 22.50 23.00 25.25 28.00 30.00 35.00 35.00 51.50 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00 40.00 Trim- mings cost. $2.05 2.54 2.56 2.75 3.10 2.90 3.39 •4.01 4.71 3.85 5.22 6.64 6.88 7.92 7v64 11.52 2.29 2.84 3.94 5.28 9.02 $1.55 1.90 1.98 2.61 2.29 2.80 3.29 2.9a 3.84 3.82 3.80 4.21 4.15 4.82 6.35 9.50 1,73 2.44 3.37 3.98 6.89 Total material cost. Direct labor cost.« $3.60 4.-44 4.54 5.36 5.39 5.70 6.68 6.91 8.55 7.67 9.02 9.85 11.03 12.74 1.3.99 21.02 4.02 5.28 7.31 9.26 15.91 Total cost of material and direct labor. $1.28 1,99 1.45 2.15 2.12 3.35 8,51 3.55 3.34 3.38 3.93 4.05 2.86 4.56 3.08 3.72 1.63 2.23 3.47 3.77 3.79 $4.88 6.43 5.99 7.51 7.51 9.05 10.19 10.46 11.89 11.05 12.95 13.91 13.89 17.30 17.07 24-74 5.65 7.51 10.78 13.03 19.70 » Estimate based on the assumption that retail prices are 50 per cent above wholesale price. ' This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. Table 11c. — Analysis of costs of typical pants for different grades of clothing — Average selling price and costs — Summary in dollar classes. [Arranged in order of net selling price firom under $2 to over $4 jper garment.) Range of net wholesale selling price. Under $2. . . $2 to $2.49... $2.50 to $2.99 $3 to $3.99... Over $4 Net wholesale selling price. $1.58 2.15 2.72 3.40 4.55 Esti- mated retail price.i $2.50 3.50 4.00 5.50 7.00 Total cloth cost. $0.78 1.10 1.49 2.00 2.68 Trim- mings cost. $0.14 .19 .20 .25 .23 Total material cost. $0.92 1.29 1.69 2.25 2.91 Direct labor cost.« $0.41 .45 .53 .58 .65 Total cost of material and direct labor. $1.33 1.74 2.22 2.83 3. 50 ' Estimate based on the assumption that retail prices are 50 per cent above wholesale price. s This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount i>aid to contractors for making up the garments. Attention is called to the parallel series formed by the ascending averages, both for net selling prices and for cloth costs, showing the importance of cloth in the price of the garment. 868 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The facts may be studied more readily in the following table of percentages: Table 12a.— Anali/sis ofemts of ty^ml suits for diferml grmks oj clothing— Summary in dollar cimses. [Details off ■•resaed as percentages, of net selling price.) Range of net wholesale selling iirice. ■whole- sale Klitog VI , .. I Percent. Under ?5 i loo.oo 15 to 15.99 100.00 l6toiti.9[» I 100.00 f 7 to 17.99 100, 00 18 to 18.99... 19 to 19.99. . . Il0to.?10.99. fil to $11.99. 512 to 112.99. 513 to $13.99. fl4 to 114.99. 115 to S15.99 fl6to$lti.99 117 to II 7.99 118 to $18.99 119 to 119.9*^ 100. 00 100.00 KKXOO 100.00 100.00 100.00 100. 00 100.00 100.00 KW.OO 100.00 100.00 Total cloth cost. 120 to 120.99. $21 to 121.99. $22 to $22.99. $23 to $23.99. S24 to $24.99. SUMMARY OP TOTALS. Under $S , $8 to $11.99 $12 to $14.99 $15 to $19.99.... $20 and over 100.00 100. 00 1«). 00 100. 00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Per cent. 38.25 42.30 39.91 41.63 39.83 39.59 36.60 35.09 34.43 36.44 35.29 33.53 34.87 32. 91 33.17 32.48 39.03 34.00 37.25 38.58 33.58 40.89 37.40 35.60 37.40 37.07 Trlm- mhigs cost. Total material cost. Per cent. 15.25 18.93 18.97 17.65 18.67 19. 21 18.93 18.63 18.81 • 17.59 17.41 16.86 17.53 15.76 16.59 15.88 15.56 13.67 14.73 13.30 13.49 18.21 18.89 17.96 16.36 14.29 Per cent. 53.51 61.23 58.88 59.28 58.39 58.80 55.53 63.72 53.76 54.03 52.70 50.30 54.20 48.67 48.76 48.36 54.59 47.07 51.99 51.88 47.07 69.10 5<>.29 53.55 49.85 51.36 Direct labor eost.» Per cent. 24.21 25.84 23.34 23.68 22.93 25.72 26.41 27.46 26.61 26.39 26.20 28.10 29.27 28.35 24.62 25.92 23.12 23.21 25.39 20.82 26.17 23.92 26.27 26.04 27.41 23.27 Total cost of material direct labor. Per cent, 77.72 87.07 82.22 82.87 81.32 84.52 81.94 81.19 80.38 80.42 77.90 78.49 81.67 77.02 73.38 74.28 77.71 70.88 77.38 72.71 72.25 83.02 82.57 79.60 77.26 74.63 * Ttiis entry represents derect labor where the manufacturer has his own snops; otherwise It stands for the direct labor m the cuitmg room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. ^ ■■ tf i glil li ftai SWMgW BEPOET OF TAKIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 869 Table 12b. — Analysis of costs of typical overcoats Jor different grades of clothing — Summary in dollar classes. fDetails of cost expressed as percentages of net selling price.) Range- of net wholesale seUing price. $6 to $6.99 $7 to $7.99 $8lo$8.99 $9 to $9.99 $10to$10.99 $11 to 111.99 tl2 to $12.99 $13 to $13.99 114 to $14.99 -....,... $15 to $15.99 $16 to $16.99 $18 to $18.99 $19 to $19.99 $22 to $22.99 $23 to $23.99 $25 and over SUMMARY OF TOTALS. Under S3 $8 10 $11.99 $12 to $14.99 $15 to $19.99 $20 and over Net whole- sale selling price. Per cent. 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 lOO.OO 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Total cloth cost. Percent. 30.46 33.33 29.63 2S.29 30.21 25.54 27.29 28.95 32.07 25.64 31.78 30.32 35.35 34.81 32.86 33.47 31.94 28.83 29.27 30.84 33.65 Trim- mings cost. Per cent. 23.03 24.93 22.92 27.79 22.31 24.67 26.49 20.93 26.14 2.5.44 23.14 22.63 21.32 21.18 27.31 27.60 24.12 24.77 25.03 23.24 25.70 Total material cost. Per cent. 63. 49 58.26 52.55 57.08 52.53 50.21 53.78 49.89 58.22 51.09 54.93 52.96 66.67 56.00 60.17 61.08 56.06 53.60 54.31 54.08 59.36 Direct labor cost. 1 Per cent. 19.02 26.12 16.78 22.89 20.66 29.51 28.25 25.63 22.72 22.51 23.93 21.77 14.69 20.04 13.24 10.81 22.73 22.63 25.78 22.02 14.14 Total cost of material and di- rect la- bor. Per cent. 72.51 84.38 69.33 79.97 73.19 79.73 82.03 75.62 80.94 73.61 78.86 74.73 71.37 76.04 73.41 71. S9 78.80 76.24 80.09 76.10 73.60 1 This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. Table 12c. — Analysis of cost of tyjmal pants for different grades of clothing—Summary in dollar classes. [Details of cost expressed as percentages of net selling price.] Range of net wholesale selling price. Net wholesale selling price. Under $2. . $2 to $2.40. $2.50 to S3. $3 to $3.99. Over $4... Per cent. 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Total Cloth cost. Per cent. 49.38 5L16 54 78 58. 82 Sa90 Trim- mings cost. Per cent. 8,86 a 84 7.35 7.35 5.05 Total material cost. Per cent. 68.23 60.00 62.13 66.17 63.95 Direct labor cost. I Per cent. 25.94 20 93 19.48 17.06 14.28 Total cost of material and direct labor. Per cent. 84.17 80.93 8L61 83.23 78.24 1 This entry represpnts direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. It will be observed that as the selling prices increase there is a gradual decline in the percentage expended for cloth, emphasizing the general observation made before that cloth is more important an element of cost in popular gi-ades of clothing than in the higher grades, although in all grades having a wide sale cloth is the largest element of cost. The cost of cloth and material absorb a diminishing percentage of the selling price of garments as higher grades of clothing are reached. Nevertheless the cost of cloth is still a very largo factor, if not the determining one in the price of higher-grade clothing. This may be seen by taking the difference in price and in costs for various grades of clothing, and noting the percentage of the increase in price which is absorbed in cloth and in trimming and in direct labor. S2080''— H. Doc. 342, 62-2. vol 2 ^17 870 BEFORT OF TAEIFF BOABI> OK SCHEDULE K. Table 13. — I>%jferenc€ in selling price arid in items of cost/or different grades qf suits. («) AMOUNT. Avwage prices for grades of clotMng com- piiml. Esti- mated retail selling prtceJ Net wholesale selfcng price. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor.' 16.48 toSlO.lfi 15,00 &00 £.00 13 68 3.32 3.45 fl.l5 .87 •a 74 .60 35 $1.89 1.50 1.22 11. 13 .84 LIS 1! 0.14) toll 3.48 113.48 to tie.93 (0) PER CENT. •6.48 to $10.16... 110.16 to $13.48.. IIS'48 to $16.93.. 100.00 100.00 100.00 3L25 30.12 25.21 20.11 15.06 10.14 51.36 46.18 35.36 90.49 25.30 32.75 i Estimate based on the assumption that retail prioe 2.90 3.65 2.94 2.85 3.4Q 2.9« 3.97 3.58 Trim- mings cost. $0.58 .69 1.00 1.13 1.13 1.03 1.10 1.10 1.13 1.13 1.44 1.44 1.10 1.64 1.35 1.30 1.13 1.41 1.25 1.00 1.75 1.50 1.72 1.25 1.62 Total mate- rial cost. $2.04 2.38 3.11 3.40 3.69 4.14 3.99 3.40 3.65 3.84 4.06 4.22 4.01 4.33 4,34 4.31 4.90 4.54 4.60 4.9*1 4.70 5.22 6.20 I Direct labor cost.* Total cost of mate- rial and direct labor. $0.95 1.05 1.26 1.56 1.56 1.47 1.63 1.63 1.56 1.56 1.26 1.38 1.59 1.82 1.85 i.m i.co 1.33 1.93 2.24 mm ^9 1.S6 2.19 1.82 1.56 $2.99 3.43 4.37 4.96 5.21 5.16 5.77 6.62 4.96 5.21 5.10 5.44 5.81 5.83 6.18 6.02 6.28 5. 64 6.83 6.78 6.86 6.82 6.89 7.04 6.76 \ The corrsspondlng retail price may be estinmted by adding 50 per cent to the wholesale price • This entry represents direct labor where the nianiifacturer ha« his own shops; otherAvise it stands far the direct labor in the cutting room plus tb© amount paid to contracUws for maSig up the gannSST ■m BKPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDTn^ K. 871 Table 14a. — Analysis of costs of typical smts — Selling price and details of costs. — Continued. Range of net whole- sale selling price. IB to $9.99. no to 110.99. Ill to $11.99. tl2 to $12.99. tl3 to $13.99. Wholes ale sell- Total Ref- er- ing price. Cloth cost per yard net. Yards per Total cloth Trim- niings Total mate- Direct labor cost of inate- ence rtA.! ftTtd num- ber. Gross. Net. suit. cosL cost. rial cost. cost. direct labor. 26 $9.00 $9.00 $1.23 3.375 $4.32 $1.44 $5.70 $1.43 $7.19 27 10.00 9.08 1.26 3. .375 4.25 1.65 5.90 "^.25 8.15 28 10.00 9.18 .91 3.375 3.07 1.70 4.77 2.59 7.26 29 10.00 9.18 1.057 3.375 3.57 1.70 5.27 2.59 7. £3 30 10.00* 9.18 1.057 3.375 3.57 1.70 5.27 2.59 7. SO 31 10.00 9.18 1.08 3.375 3.65 1.70 5.35 2.59 7.94 $2 10.00 9.18 1.17 3.375 3.95 1.70 6.C5 2.59 8.24 33 10.00 9.25 1.10 3.50 3.86 1.75 5.61 2.75 8.36 24 10.00 9.30 .81 3.50 2.83 2.30 6.13 2.40 7.53 35 10.00 9.30 .90 3.025 3.26 1.82 6.08 2.37 7.45 36 10.00 9.30 .95 3.50 3.33 1.60 4.93 2.25 7.18 37 10.00 9.30 .995 3.50 3.48 1.80 6.28 2.49 7.77 38 10.00 9.30 1.00 3.50 3.50 2.08 5.58 2.22 7.80 39 10.00 9.30 1.115 3.50 3.90 1.6S 5.48 2.50 7.98 40 10.00 9.30 1.12 3.375 3.78 1.53 6.31 2.39 7.70 41 10.00 9.30 1.35 3.375 4.56 1.53 6.C9 2.39 8.48 42 10.00 9. 40 1.08 3.50 3.78 2.02 6.80 2.66 8.46 43 10.50 9.53 1.30 3.375 4.39 1.65 6.04 2.26 8.30 44 10.50 9.74 1.0125 3. 66 3.71 2.12 6.83 2.43 8.26 45 10.50 9.77 1.05 3.18 3.34 1.90 6.24 2.45 7.69 46 10.00 9.80 1.25 3.60 4.38 1.75 6.13 2.30 8.43 47 10.50 9.96 .90 3.625 3.26 2.39 5.65 2.67 8.32 43 10.00 10.00 1.00 3.50 3.50 1.98 5.48 2.88 8.36 49 10.00 10.00 1.50 3.375 5.06 1.35 6.41 2.08 8.49 60 10.50 10.08 .90 3.50 3.15 2.00 6.15 2.68 7.83 51 11.00 10.09 1.215 3.375 4.10 1.85 5.95 2.59 8.54 52 11.00 10.09 1.25 3.375 4.22 1.85 6.07 2.59 8.C6 63 11.00 10.09 1.26 3.375 4.25 1.85 6.10 2.59 8.09 64 11. CO 10.23 .925 3.625 3.35 2.57 6.92 3.37 9.29 65 11.00 10.67 .85 3.625 3.08 2.03 6.11 3.03 8.14 £6 11.50 10.69 .875 3.50 3.06 2.00 6.06 2.55 7.01 67 11.50 10.70 1.06 3.625 3.84 1.84 5.68 3.12 8.80 68 11.50 10.70 1.10 3.50 3.85 2.13 5.98 2.42 8.40 69 12.00 11.16 1.12 3.50 3.92 2.20 6.12 3.04 9.16 60 12.00 11.16 1.25 3.50 4.38 1.80 6.18 2.60 8.78 61 12.50 11.38 .80 3.50 2.80 2.37 5.17 4.34 9.51 C2 12.00 11.40 .90 3.625 3.26 2.25 5.51 3.28 8.79 63 12.50 11.47 1.33 3.375 4.49 2.00 6.49 3.04 9.53 64 12.50 11.47 1.43 3.375 4.83 2.00 6.83 3.04 9.87 65 12.50 11.47 1.48 3.375 5.00 2.00 7.00 3.04 10.04 66 12.50 11.47 1.60 3.375 5.40 2.00 7.40 3.04 10.44 67 11.50 11.50 1.25 3.50 4.38 2.0G 6.44 3.31 9.75 68 12.50 11.60 1.26 3.66 4.62 2.28 6.90 3.03 9.93 69 12.50 11.62 .95 3.50 3.33 2.36 6.69 2.95 8.04 70 12.50 11.63 1.35 3.50 4.73 2.08 6.81 2.65 9.46 71 12.50 11.63 1.42 3.50 4.97 1.64 6.61 2.50 9.11 72 12.50 11.66 .78 3.65 2.85 2.26 5.11 3.24 8.35 73 12.50 11.06 .80 3.65 2.92 2.20 5.18 3.24 8.42 74 12.50 11.82 .91 3.50 3.19 2.26 5.45 2.87 8.32 75 13.00 11.8:? l.CO 3. 025 3.63 2.25 5.88 4.86 10.74 76 12.50 11.85 1.20 3.625 4.35 2.59 6.94 2.92 9. 80 77 13.00 12.08 .89 3.50 3.12 2.57 5.69 3. GO 9.29 78 13.00 12.09 1.33 3.50 4.66 2.69 7.35 3.25 10.60 79 12.50 12.13 1.12 3.625 4.06 2.03 6.09 3.18 9.27 80 12.50 12.25 1.75 3.50 6.13 2.25 8.38 2.80 11.18 81 13.50 12.39 1.63 3.375 5.49 2.15 7.64 3.23 10.87 82 13.50 12.39 1.78 3.375 6.01 2.15 8.16 3.23 11.39 83 13.50 12.49 1.28 3.50 4.48 2.05 6.53 3.13 9. GO 84 13.50 12.53 1.40 3.06 5.12 2.36 7.48 3.24 10.72 85 13. .50 12.54 .96 3.60 3.46 2.30 5.82 3.54 9.30 86 13.50 12.55 .925 3.42 3.16 2.57 5.73 3.73 9.46 87 13.50 12.55 1.13 3.12 3.86 2.57 6.43 3.72 10.15 88 13.50 12.56 1.125 3.18 3.58 2.42 6.00 3.40 9.40 89 13.50 12.56 1.23 3.625 4.46 2.12 6. 68 3.01 9.59 90 13.50 12.60 1.00 3.65 3.65 2.32 5.07 3.24 9.21 91 13.50 12.83 1.10 3.G25 3.99 2.55 6.54 3.40 9.94 92 14.00 13.02 1-50 3.50 6.25 2.00 7.25 2.90 10.15 93 14.00 13.06 1.08 3. GO 3.89 2.32 6.21 3.24 9.45 94 14.50 13.48 1.195 3.42 4.08 2.57 6.C5 3.72 10.37 95 13.48 13.48 1.195 3.42 4. 08 2.57 6.€»5 4.12 10.77 96 13.48 13.48 1.35 3.42 4.62 2.57 7.19 4.12 11.31 97 14.50 13.48 1.45 3.60 6.08 2.13 7.21 3.25 10.46 98 13.49 13.49 1.29 3.42 4.41 2.57 6.98 4.12 11.10 i 872 BEPOET OF TAKIFF BOAEB ON SCHEDULE K. Table 14a. — Analyms of costs of typical suits — Selling price and details of costs — CoBtinued. Wholesale sell- *. % Total Range of net whole- Eef- er- enc© num- ing prioe. Cloth DORt per yard net. Yards per suit. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total mate- rial cost. Direct labor cost. cost of mate- sala selling price. rial and direct ber. Gross. Net. lal)or. |13totl3.99 ..♦ 99 $15.00 $13.65 $1,125 3.625 $1.08 $2.25 $6.33 $4.86 $11.19 100 15.00 13.76 1.62 3.375 5.47 2.40 7.87 3.31 11.18 101 15.00 13.76 1.80 3.375 6.06 2.40 8.48 3.31 11.79 102 15.00 13.92 1.67 3.66 6.12 2.37 8.63 3.69 12.22 103 L5.00 13.95 1.35 3.625 4.90 7.27 4.06 11.33 IM 15.00 13.95 1.42 3.625 5.15 3.U 8.32 3.25 11.57 105 15.00 13.95 1.43 3.42 4.89 2.57 7.46 3.73 11.19 106 1.5.00 13.95 1.61 3.50 6.28 2.40 7.(V8 3.49 11.17 107 15.00 13.95 1.75 3.50 6.13 1.68 7.81 2.50 10.31 Ill tOfctH.W 108 109 14.00 15.00 14.00 14.02 1.45 1..33 3.60 3.42 6-08 4.55 2.29 2.57 7.37 7.12 3.77 3.72 11.14 10.84 no 14.50 14.07 1.40 3.625 5.08 2.31 7.39 3.38 10. 77 111 15.00 14.25 1.20 3.625 4.35 2.75 7.10 4.00 11.10 112 16.50 14.35 1.58 3.42 6.38 2.67 7.95 3.72 11.67 113 15.50 14.41 1.29 3.42 4.41 2.57 6.98 4.12 11.10 114 15.50 14.41 1.53 3. 625 5.55 3.01 8.56 3.15 11.71 115 15.50 14. 42 1.49 3.50 5.22 2.22 7.44 3.05 10.49 116 15.00 14. 70 2.00 3.50 7.00 2.70 9.70 3.05 12.75 117 16.00 14.86 1.06 3.66 3.89 2.« 6.43 4.09 10.53 lis 16.00 14.86 1.25 3.625 4.53 2.42 6.95 4.38 11.33 119 16.00 14.88 1.51 3.42 5.16 2.57 7.73 3.72 11.45 120 16.00 14.88 1.80 3.50 6.30 2.25 8.55 3.30 11.86 115 to 115.99 121 16.50 15.01 1.28 3.50 4.48 2.59 7.07 4.49 ii.5e 122 16.. 50 15.01 1.75 3.50 6.13 2.50 8. ai 5.0} 13.66 123 16.50 15.14 1.43 3.42 4.89 2.57 7.46 3.72 11.18 124 15.25 15.25 1.51 3.42 6.16 2.52 2.10 7.73 4.12 11.85 125 16.50 15.31 1.40 3.625 6.08 7.18 4.12 11.30 126 16.50 1.5.31 1.85 3.66 6.77 2.55 9.32 3.84 13. 16 127 16.50 15.34 1.38 3.625 4.98 2.70 7.08 6.47 1.3. 15 128 16. 50 15.38 1.40 3.42 4.79 2.57 7.36 4.94 12.30 129 16. SO 15.39 1.32 3.60 4.7S 2.77 7.55 3.74 11.29 130 16.50 15.61 1.32 3.50 4.62 2.52 7.14 3. 57 10.71 131 16.50 15.67 1.35 3.625 4.90 2.8.5 7.75 4.30 12.05 tlOtotlC.99 132 16.00 16.00 1.75 3.50 6.13 2.35 8.48 4.38 12.84 1.33 17.50 16.26 1.27 3. 025 4.60 2.45 7.05 6.04 12 09 lU 17.50 16.26 1.29 3.50 4.50 2.90 7.40 4.53 11.93 135 17.50 16.26 1.33 3.50 4.65 2.63 7.18 6.28 12. 46 136 18.00 16.74 1.85 3.625 6.71 3.41 10.12 3.50 13.62 137 18.00 16.74 1.85 3.625 6,71 3.41 10.12 7.20 17.32 138 18.00 16.74 1.88 3.625 6.80 3.09 9.89 3.80 13.69 tlTto:|17.a» 139 18.50 17.17 1.60 3.625 5.78 2.60 8.38 4.12 12.50 110 18.50 17.19 1.38 3.50 4.81 2.fJ0 7.41 5.32 12.73 141 18.50 17.20 1.49 3.75 5.69 3.00 0« OtT 6.02 13.61 142 18.50 17.20 1.58 3.625 6.71 2.46 8.17 6.72 13.89 143 18.00 17.38 1.50 3.625 6.44 2.65 8.09 6.41 13.60 in 18.50 17.61 1.85 3.60 6.48 2.84 9.32 4.19 13.61 115 18.50 17.57 1.68 3.625 6.07 3.00 9.07 4.00 13.67 118 to 118.99. 146 19.50 18.19 1.78 3.47 6.17 3.01 9.18 4.16 13.34 147 20.00 18.20 1.75 3.625 6.35 2.70 9.05 6.46 14.61 148 20.00 18.66 1.75 3.625 6.34 2.90 9.24 4.28 13.52 149 20.00 18.58 1.48 3.625 5.36 2.64 8.00 6.41 13.41 150 20.00 18.60 1.78 3.42 6.09 2.95 9.04 3.72 12.76 151 20.00 18.60 1.96 3.42 6.70 2.95 9.6,5 4.12 13.77 152 20.00 18.66 1.71 3.47 6.94 3.01 8.95 4.67 13.62 $19 to 119.99 153 1.54 20.60 21.00 19.47 19.51 1.7S 1.67 3.60 3.66 6.22 6.12 3.39 2.77 9.61 8.89 6.20 6.82 14.81 14.71 155 21.00 19. 59 1.91 3.60 6.69 3.14 9.83 4.17 14.00 t20 to 120.99 156 157 22.00 22.00 20.02 20.02 2.00 2.13 3.50 3.625 7.00 7.70 2.85 3.05 9.85 10.75 4.99 6.51 14.84 10. 26 158 22.00 20.46 2.25 3.42 7.70 3.60 11.20 4.12 15.32 159 22.00 20.40 2.55 3.626 9.25 3.18 12.43 4.10 16.53 $21 to 121.99 160 161 22.50 23.00 21.30 21.36 2.24 1.96 3.50 3.50 7.84 6.80 3.23 2.78 11.07 9.64 4.39 4.71 15.46 14.35 162 23. SO 21.85 1.97 3.66 7.22 2.81 10.03 6.88 15.91 $22 to $22.99 163 164 24.00 25.00 22.27 22.75 2.25 2.75 3.625 3.625 8.10 9.97 3.75 3.15 11.91 13. 12 4.28 5.56 16.19 18.68 165 24.50 22.76 2.11 3.375 7.12 3.11 10.23 7.37 17.60 $23 to $23.99 166 2.5.00 23.22 2.28 3.60 8.15 2.93 11.08 5.57 16.65 167 25.00 23.25 2. 35 3. G25 8.62 6.18 14.70 4.10 18.80 Itt 25.00 23.66 2.76 3.50 9.66 3.23 12.89 4.92 17.81 OTer524 169 26.00 24.15 2.36 3.437 8.11 3.26 11.37 6.08 17.45 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 873 Table 14h.—Anahjsis of costs of typical overcoats— Selling price and details of costs. [Arranged in order of net selling price.J Range of net whole- sale selling price. $6 to $0.99. $7 to $7.99. $8 to $8.99. $9 to $9.99. $13 to $13.99.. $14 to $14.99.. $15 to $15.99. 116 to $10.09. $18 to $18.99. Ref- er- ence num- ber. $10 to $10.99 $11 to $11.99 $12 to $12.99 119 to $19.99. $22 to $22.99. $23 to $23.99. $25 and oyer 1 2 3 4 6 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 10 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 Wholesale selling.i Cross. 7.50 7.50 10.00 9.00 9.00 10.00 8.50 10.00 10.50 10.50 11.00 11.50 12.50 12.50 13.50 13.50 13.25 13.50 13.60 13.50 15.00 15.00 15.00 15,50 15.50 16.00 16.00 16.50 16.50 17.50 17.50 18.00 18.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 25.00 25.00 24.50 24-00 34.00 40.00 Net. $6. 48 6.97 7.50 9.25 8.64 8.64 9.10 7.73 9 30 9.93 10.08 10.23 10.46 11.32 11.38 12.28 12.28 12. 40 12.55 12-55 12.55 13.65 13.95 13.95 14.35 14.66 14.88 14.88 15.01 15.01 16.27 16.28 10.38 10.74 18.20 18.20 18.20 18.60 19.46 22.75 22.75 23.18 23.32 31.62 37.20 Cloth cost per yard, net. $0.85 .82 .90 .86 .70 1.05 1.06 .86 1.03 .95 1.10 1.13 .81 1.40 .80 .95 1.58 1.11 1.035 1.13 L43 1.25 1.50 1.03 1.92 1.71 l.GO 1.92 1.30 1.40 2.03 2.03 2.00 2.14 1.75 1.94 2.50 2.00 2.50 2.70 2.76 2.10 3.30 4.05 5.18 Yards per over- coat. 2.625 2.26 3.00 2.75 3.00 2.875 3.00 3.00 2.21 3.125 3.25 2.875 3.06 3.00 2.00 3.06 3.00 3.42 2.50 2.50 2.60 2.75 2.50 3.00 2.50 2.75 2.875 2.50 2.025 3.06 2.50 2.50 2.75 2.50 2.75 3.06 2.75 2.47 2.75 3.06 2.75 2.75 2.875 2.50 2.50 Total cloth cost. $2.24 1.85 2.70 2.37 2.10 3.02 3.17 2.57 2.28 2.97 3.58 3.23 2.48 4.20 1.60 2.91 4.73 3.79 2.59 2.82 3.58 3.44 3.75 4.88 4.80 4.70 4 60 4.80 3.41 4.29 5.08 5.08 5.50 5.35 4.81 5.94 6-88 4.94 6.88 8.27 7.56 5.78 9.49 10.13 12.95 Trim- minga cost. $1.44 1.67 85 95 2.15 1.81 2.50 2.11 2.69 3.15 1.42 2.50 2.95 3.24 2-37 3.16 3.22 2.57 3.60 3. GO 3.00 3.05 3.00 2.05 3,00 3.85 4.33 3.00 4.18 3.45 3.00 3.00 3 50 4.50 5.30 3.55 3.50 4.50 4.15 3.55 6.10 8.05 4.65 8.90 10.10 Total ma- terial cost. $3.68 3.52 4.55 4.32 4.25 4.83 5.67 4.68 4.97 6.12 5.00 5.73 5.43 7.44 3.97 6.07 7,95 6.36 6.19 6.42 7.18 0.49 7.35 6.93 8.40 8.55 8.93 8.40 7.59 7.74 8.68 9.00 9.85 10-11 9.49 10.38 9.44 11.03 11.82 13.66 13.83 14.14 19.03 23.05 Direct labor cost.' Total cost of mate- rial and direct labor. $1.32 1.25 1.43 2.64 1.53 1.37 2-26 1.69 2.05 2.59 1.32 2.50 2.55 2.36 4.34 2.90 2.36 4.94 3.72 3.41 3.72 4.44 3-72 2.60 3.72 3.00 2.93 3.72 3-36 3.40 3.72 3-72 4.54 3.72 4.54 4.58 4.49 2.60 2.86 4.58 4.54 3.11 3.05 3.72 3.72 $5.00 4.77 5.98 6.86 6.78 6.20 7.93 6.37 7-02 8.71 6.32 8 23 7.98 9.80 8.31 8.97 10.31 11.30 9.91 9.83 10.90 10.93 11.07 9.43 12-12 11-55 11.86 12.12 10.95 11.14 12.40 12.40 13.54 13.57 14.65 14.07 14,87 12-04 13.89 10.40 18.20 16-94 17.19 22.75 26.77 I ThA roTTPSTwndinc retail price may be estimated by adding 50 per cent to the wholesale price. ThL?S?yTprSfnt^X?ct labor where the manulfacturer\as\iis own shops; othervyise it stands for thi^£^tmaSthQC\itiisig room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOAE0 OF SCHEDULE K, Table 14c.— Analysis of costs of typical pcmts— Selling prke and details of cost*. [Arranged in order of net selling price.] Ranee of net whole- sale selling price. S2and under.. $2 to 12.49 |B.50toS2.99.. «to$3.99 Refer- ence num- ber. 8 9 10 Wholesale selling. I Gross. SI. 50 2.00 2.25 2.25 2.50 3.00 3.00 3.60 4.00 5.00 Net. Cloth cost per yard net. 11.35 1.80 2.09 2.09 2.28 2.70 2.73 3.16 3.64 4.55 SO. 58 .63 .85 .90 1.25 1.03 1.40 1.70 2.00 Yards per pants. 1.26 L34 1.22 1.29 1.34 1.29 1.34 1.29 1.29 1.34 Total cloth cost. Sa72 .84 1.04 1.16 1.11 1.61 1.37 1.81 2.19 2.68 Trim- mings Total mate- rial cost. Direct labor cost. cost* so. 14 SO. 86 SO. 30 .13 .97 .52 .20 1.24 .39 .20 L36 • 99 .16 1.27 .58 .22 1.83 .49 .18 1.55 .67 .25 2.06 .58 .25 2.44 .58 .23 2.91 .65 Total cost of mate- rial and direct, labor. SI. 16 1 49 1.63 1.75 1 85 2.32 2.12 2.64 3 02 3.56 Table 14d.— Analysis of costs of typical suits (special order)— Selling price and details of costs. [Arranged in order of net selling pric«.] Wholesale selling price. S10.50.. S12.... S13.... S14.... S15.... S16.... S17.... S18...- S20.... I2S S36.... t28.... S32.... Total cloth cost. S2.80 3.60 4.01 4.36 4.83 5.00 6.05 3.58 5.96 5.38 6.67 6.09 6.54 7.50 7.71 8. 68 10.00 8.25 9.26 ia49 11.20 Trim- mings cost. SI. 25 1.76 1.70 2.25 1.75 1.70 1.70 2.00 2.60 2.00 2.75 3.75 2.85 3.10 2.50 2.00 4.10 3.12 2.75 3.85 Total material cost. S4.05 6.35 6.74 5.11 6.11 6.53 6.70 7.05 6.18 7.96 8.13 10.42 9.39 9.&i 10.81 11.18 12.00 12.35 12.38 13.24 15.05 Direct labor cost.i S3. 57 5.25 3.64 4.62 6.30 3.67 3.57 6.60 4.80 6.90 6.14 4.12 6.47 6.50 7.03 6.14 7.86 3.54 4.92 6.44 .&74 7.03 Total cost of material and direct labor. $7. 62 10.60 9.28 9.73 11.41 10.10 10.27 12.65 10.98 13.86 14.27 14.54 15.41 14.98 16.87 16.95 19.04 15. 54 17 27 1&82 2L98 2208 I This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops: otherwise it stands for the direct labor m the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 875 IMPORTANCE OF WOOLEN LININGS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTHING. The foregoing discussion was concerned chiefly with the cost of cloth and its importance among the manufacturers' costs. In medium and high grade clothing the lining used for the inside of the coat and back of the vest is woolen, or rather a cotton warped woolen cloth. About 2i yards are used and the price of such linings are from 30 to 60 cents per yard. From the data gathered it appears that the cost of such lining is equal to fully 5 or 6 per cent of the selling price of the garment. On some grades of clothmg it is equal to 8 or 9 per cent of the net seUing price. The accompanymg table shows for specimen suits the cost of woolen linings per yard. The total cost of the lining can readily be computed by multiplying by 2 or 2 J. Table 15. — Relation of cost of woolen lining per yard to selling price of suits. Net selling Cost per Net seUing Cost per price of yard body price of yard body suit. lining. suit. lining. S7.90 SO. 325 S12.83 SO. 35 8.37 .35 13.06 .36 9.18 .318 13.92 .45 9.30 .32 13.95 .425 9.30 .35 14.25 .40 9.74 .325 15.31 .425 10.09 .338 15.31 .50 10. 72 .32 15.39 .382 11.16 .37 15.67 .45 11.40 .325 17.57 .50 11.60 .325 18.19 .475 11.66 .338 18.66 .472 12.53 .425 19.59 .51 12.60 .36 To determine the importance of woolen material in the manufacture of clothing, it is necessary to add, for all but cheap grades, about 6 per cent of the selhn^ price for woolen Hnings. This means that for medium and most hign grade clothing the cost of woolen materials used is 40 per cent of the selling price or more. For cheap-grade clothing the cloth cost alone is 40 per cent. Thus for most clothing sold the cost of w^oolen material is fully 40 per cent of the seUing price. RELATION OF THE COST OF CLOTH TO THE COST OF CLOTHING. Among the manufacturers whose establishments were studied, the cloth used ranged in price per yard from 45 cents in a suit selling for $4.65 retail to $2.76 in one selling wholesale at $25 regular, or the equivalent of $35 to $40 retail. In overcoats the highest price cloth was $5.18 per yard, in an overcoat seUing at $40 wholesale. Both higher ana lower priced cloths were used by the establishments visited, but not in garments having a wide sale. In the main the cloths used in manufacturing men's clothing range in price from 65 cents to $2. The average priced garments using the former cloth sells at $5.50 at wholesale and about $8 retaU; the average priced garment in which the $2 cloth is used is about $20 wholesale, or about $30 retail. In garments forming the bulk of the ready-made clothing production, those sold at retail from $10 to $20, the cloth price would range from 876 EEPORT OF TAKIFF BO.VBD ON SCHEDULE K. 65 cents to about $1 .50. The retail equivalents for wholesale prices as given here are on the assumption that the retail price adds 50 per cent to the cost at wholesale. In an accompanying table (Table 17) there are shown the details bearing on the relation of the cost of cloth per yard to the net selling price at wholesale. There is shown for each price of cloth the prices of garments into which it enters, and also the cost of the trimmmgs and me direct labor cost or contract price. For the cloths most extensively used in the specimen garments for which the data nre available a summary has been made showing the average price of the garments into which certain priced cloths go, and also the maximum and minimum priced garments in whicn such cloths are used. Table U.— Relation of chth cost to total cost of suits— Summary— Net selling prke of suits and details of cost according to the price oj cloth per yard. •Average maximum anl minimum price for suits using cloth at specified prices from S0.75 to 12 per yard.) Kange o doth cost per yard. • Item.» Net wholesale selling price. Esti- mated retail price.* Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor COSt.3 Total cost of mate- rial and direct labor. 10.76 to 10.80.. - Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest T-owest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. 88 49 11.66 6.58 113.29 18.00 9 00 12.70 2.92 2.62 $1.66 2.37 1.03 S4.36 5.18 3.69 $2.40 4.34 1.38 $6.7« 9.51 5.10 6.08 9.00 .40 1.34 1.49 2.96 4.35 .81 to .85... 8 68 10.67 7.35 13 16 16.00 11.00 2 94 3.08 2.83 1.79 2.a3 L35 4.73 5.13 4.33 2.33 3.03 1.85 7.06 8.14 6.18 3.32 5.00 .25 .68 .80 1.18 L96 .86 to .90. . . 9 13 12. 08 6.36 14.20 19.00 10.00 3.10 3.26 2.89 1.79 2.57 1.10 4.89 6.69 3.99 2.34 3.60 1.33 7.23 9.29 5.62 6.72 9.00 .37 1.47 L70 2.27 3.67 .91 to .95. . . io.2;j 1Z65 6 90 15 71 19 00 ILOO 3.22 3.35 3.07 2.02 2.67 1.10 6.99 6.92 4.22 3.34 3.73 1.59 10.33 9.46 7.18 5.65 8.00 .28 1.47 L70 2.14 2.28 .96 to 1.00... 10 93 12.60 9.30 16.60 19.00 14.00 3.52 3.65 3.46 2.13 2.36 1.80 5.66 6.97 5.28 3.21 4.86 2.22 8.87 10.74 7.77 3.30 5.00 .19. .56 .69 2.64 2.97 1.01 to 1.05... 8.84 9.77 7.50 13. 75 15.00 12.00 3. 49 3.71 3.34 1 66 2.12 1.13 5.15 5.83 4.59 2.11 2.45 1.69 7.26 8.26 6.28 2.27 3.00 .37 .99 1.26 .76 1.98 1.06 to 1.10... 10.39 14.86 7.72 15.92 23.00 12.00 3.77 3.99 3.57 1.92 2.56 L25 5.69 6.64 4.90 2.74 4.09 1.56 8.43 10.52 6.76 7.14 11.00 .42 1.30 1.64 2.63 3.76 1.11 to 1.15... 11. 62 13.65 9.30 17.67 2L00 14.00 3.88 4.08 3.68 2.08 2.57 1.63 5.96 6.43 6.31 2.29 4.86 2.39 9.26 11.19 7.70 4. 35 7.00 .50 1.04 1.12 2.47 3.49 » The amount entered opposite "variation" is the difference between the maximum and minimum, « Estimates based on the a:;.3umption that retail prices are 50 pr cent above wholesale prices. 3 This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 877 Table 16. — Relation of chth cost to total cost oJ[ suits — Summary — Net selling price of suits and details of cost according to the price oj cloth per yard — Continued. fl I Range of cloth cost i)er yard. Item. Net wholesale selling price. $11.79 14.25 8.50 Esti- mated retail price. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost. Total cost of mate- rial and direct labor. $1.16 to $1.20... Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. Average Highest Lowest Variation. $18. 17 22.00 13.00 $4.13 4.35 3.95 $?.24 2.75 L25 $6.36 7.10 5.22 $3.19 4.12 1.82 $9.56 11.10 7.04 5.75 9.00 .40 L50 L88 2.30 4.06 1.21 to 1.25... 11.44 14.86 9.80 17.71 23.00 15.00 4.35 4.53 4.10 1.98 2.42 1.75 6.33 6.95 5.95 2.97 4.38 2.30 9.29 11.33 8.43 5.06 8.00 .43 .67 1.00 2.08 2.90 1.26 to 1.30... 12.47 16.26 9.00 19.27 25.00 14.00 4.43 4.62 4.25 2.18 2.90 1.44 6.61 7.40 5.76 3.36 5.04 1.43 9.98 12.09 7.19 7.26 11.00 .37 1.46 L64 3.61 4.90 1.31 to 1.35... 13.53 16. 26 9.30 20.82 25.00 18.00 4.67 4.90 4.47 2.41 2.85 1.53 7.08 7.75 6.09 3.65 5.28 2.39 10.73 12.46 8.48 6.96 7.00 .43 1.32 1.C6 2.89 3.98 1.36 to 1.40... 14.97 17.13 12.53 22.83 20. 00 19.00 4.97 5.12 4.74 2.44 2.70 2.10 7.41 7.C8 7.18 4.41 5.47 3.24 11.82 13.15 10.72 4. 66 7.00 .38 .60 .50 2.23 2.43 L41to 1.45... 13.37 15.14 n.47 20.43 23.00 18.00 4.97 5.15 4.81 2.34 3.17 1.64 7.31 8.32 6.61 3.32 3.77 . 2.50 10.63 11.57 9.11 3.07 5.00 .34 1.53 1.71 L27 2.46 1.46 to 1.50... 14.61 18.58 10.00 22.14 28.00 15.00 5.27 5.57 4.98 2.26 3.00 L35 7.53 8.57 6.41 3.84 5.41 2.08 1138 13.59 8.40 8.58 13.00 .59 1.65 2.16 3.33 5.10 1.51 to 1.55... 14.62 15.25 13.95 22.25 23.00 21.00 5.26 5.52 5.12 2.64 3.01 2.40 7.90 8.53 7.68 3.62 4.12 3.15 11.52 11.81 11.17 1.30 2.00 .40 .61 .85 .97 .64 1.56 to 1.60... 15.05 17.20 11.47 23.00 26.00 18.00 5.57 5.78 5.38 2.41 2.60 2.00 7.98 8. 38 7.40 4.15 5.72 3.04 12.13 13.89 10.44 5.73 8.00 .40 .60 .98 2.68 3.45 1.61 to 1.65... 13.08 13.76 12.39 20.00 21.00 19.00 5. 48 5.49 5.47 2.28 2.40 2.15 7.76 7.87 7.6-1 3.27 3.31 3.23 11.03 1L18 10.87 1.37 2.00 .02 .25 .23 .08 .31 1.66 to 1.70... 17.00 19.51 13.92 26.00 30.00 21.00 . 6.10 6.12 6.07 2.76 3.00 2.51 8.86 9.07 8.63 4.67 5.82 3.59 13.53 14.71 12.22 5.59 9.00 .05 .49 .44 2.23 2.49 1.71 to 1.75... 18.09 18.66 12.25 24.43 28.00 19.00 6.16 6.35 5.94 2.48 3.01 1.68 8.65 9.24 7.81 4.16 5.46 2.50 12.81 14.61 10.31 6.41 9.00 .41 1.33 1.43 2.96 4.20 1.76 to 1.80... 16.21 19.47 12.39 24.83 30.00 19.00 6.14 6.30 5.99 2.69 3.39 2.15 8.83 9.61 8.14 3.82 5.20 3.23 12.65 14.81 il.37 7.08 n.oo .31 L24 L47 Ly7 3.44 878 REPOET OF TABEFF BOJOID ON SCHEDtJLE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 879 Table 16, — Etkaion of doth cost to total cost of miits— Nummary— Net selling price of guits and detaik oj cost according to the price of cloth per yorJ— Continued. 1 Range of cloth oosi per yard. Item. Net wholesale selling price. Esti- Tnat€(l retail price. Total clotli cost. Trim- mings cost Total material cost Direct labor cost. Total cost of nutle- rial and direct labor. SLSlto$1.85... Average 11 ighest Lowest Variation. Average* Average' Average Highest Lowest Variation. S16.58 17.51 15.31 125.00 27.00 23.00 16.67 6.77 6.48 13.05 3.41 2.55 $9.72 10.12 9.32 S4.68 7.20 3.50 $14.40 17.32 13.16 2.20 4.00 .29 .86 .80 3.70 4.16 um to 1.90... 16.74 25.00 6.80 3.09 9.8!l 3.80 13.69 L91to 1.95... 19.59 30.00 6.69 3.14 9.83 4.17 14.00 L98to 2.00... 19.31 2L85 14.70 29.00 33.00 22.00 6.96 7.22 6.70 2.82 2.95 2.70 9.77 mc3 9.64 4.55 £.88 3.05 15.31 15.91 12.75 7.15 11.00 .52 .25 .39 2.83 3.16 » One specimen garment. Two thinffs are shown by this tabic. The average price of garments rises with the price of the cloth used. There are some few exceptions, but these are due to lack of an adequate number of specimen gar- ments at such points in the ascending scale of cloth prices and pnces of garments. Far more striking though less significant a feature of this table is the wide variation in the pi ice of garments into wluch the same priced cloths enter. Thus 75 to 80 cent cloths are used in garments sold for as high as $11.66 and as low as $5.58. There is a margin of $3.32 between the cheapest and most expensive suit in "which 81 to 85 cent cloths are used — a margin equal to more than 100 per cent of the entire cloth cost. For 86 to 90 cent and 91 to 95 cent clotlis, the dif- ference in price between cheapest and the most expensive suit is about $6. Such a variation is characteristic throughout. Practi- cally every priced cloth used enters into garments varying in price by more than tne total cost of all the cloth used in the garments. Never- theless the significant j)oint not to be lost sight of is the fact that, all in all, the cost of cloth is the largest factor in the cost of clothing and particularly in the most popular grades. Tliis is evident from the fact that the average price per suit and the average cost of the cloth used in it rise together. ' This table indicates that the determining factor in the price of clothing is the cloth cost. This is so directly and indirectly. The cost of cloth directly affects the price of the garment by the amount expended for tliis purpose. The manufacturer, furthermore, deter- mines the type of trimmings to be used and the amount of labor to be put on the garment according to the grade of tli(^ cloth he uses. To a considerable extent the same trimmings, or trimmings varying slightly in cost, are used in suits or overcoats differing in price by as much as $2 or $3. In the same way the labor cost, particularly for pants and vests, is frequently the same for garments differing very widely in price. In such cases the varjdng costs of cloth is the only ground of difference in selling price. The great divergence found in the price of garments in which clotlis bought for the same prices are used, is due to the different policy pur- X \ sued by different types of clotliiers. Producers of cheap and medium clothing emphasize the cloth, producers of higher grade clothing lay more stress on the trimming, on style, and on workmanship. For each type of manufacturer, however, the difference in cloth cost is very largely the basis for the difference in price. In the higher priced suits made from a given cloth, the compensa- tion, where there is such compensation, is partly made in the cost of trimmings of which the cloth is used. In greater part the compensa- tion is in the higher labor cost, more work being put upon the garment. Earlier analysis showed, however, that some part of the difference arises from the larger margin between the factory price and the seUing cost of higher grade garments. Producers of high-grade clothing spend far more for advertising and for the expense of selling than those who manufacture cheaper garments. As regards the essential qualities required of clothing, the consumer who wears popular priced garments gets more for his money. The accompanying table shows for the different cloths arranged in order of cloth cost per yard, the price of the suits in Vliich the cloth enters, the number of yards and the total cost for the cloth used, and the other items of cost. This table furnishes an abstract of the data for specimen garments secured for wholesale clothing. Table 17a. — Relation of cloth cost to total cost oj suits — Details /or all specimen gar" merits — Cost oj cloth per yard, yardage, net selling price ojsuit, and details oj cost. [Arranged according to cloth cost per yard.] Refer- ence No. 2 3 9 4 14.... 11 10 6 12. 72. 6.. 61. 73. Cloth cost per yard net. 84 21 20 15 23 55 S 18 56 77 7 16 60 35 47 >••..... $0.45 .52 .65 .67 .67 .67- .71. .75 .75 .775 .78 .7875 .80 .80 .81 .814 .84 .85 .85 .85 .855 .875 .875 .89 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 Yards per suit 3.25 3.25. 3.25 3.375 3.375 3.54 3.375 3. 375 Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. d.6iO 3.375 3.65 3.375 3.50 3.65 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.625 3.375 3.31 3.50 3.50 3.375 3.375 3.50 3.625 3.625 3. 625 $1.4G 1.69 2.11 2.27 2.27 2.37 2.40 2.52 2.52 2.63 2.85 2.66 2.80 2.92 2.83 2.85 2.94 2.98 2.98 3.08 2.89 2.90 3.06 3.12 3.04 3.04 3.15 3.26 3.26 3.26 Total material cost. Direct labor cost.* $0.58 .69 1.00 1.13 1.13 1.64 1.44 1.13 1.13 1.44 2.26 1.03 2.37 2.26 2.30 1.75 1.60 1.35 1.72 2.03 1.10 1.41 2.00 2.57 1.10 1.30 2.00 1.82 2.39 2.25 $2.04 2.38 3.11 3.40 3.40 .4.01 3.84 3.65 3.65 4.06 5.11 3.69 5.17 5.18 5.13 4.60 4.54 4.33 4.70 5.11 3.99 4.31 5.06 5.69 4.14 4.34 5.15 5.08 5.65 6.61 Total cost of material and direct labor. Wholesale selling price. Gross. Net. 10.95 $5.99 1.05 3.43 1.26 4.37 1.56 4.96 1.56 4.96 1.82 5.83 1.26 6.10 1.56 5.21 1.56 5.21 1.38 5.44 3.24 8.35 1.47 5.16 4.34 9.51 3.24 8.42 2.40 7.53 2.26 6.86 2.24 6.78 1.85 6.18 2.19 6.89 3.03 8.14 1.63 5.62 1.33 5.64 2.55 7.61 3.60 9.29 1.63 5.77 1.68 6.02 2.68 7.83 2.37 7.45 2.67 8.32 3.28 8.79 $3.75 4.50 5.50 7.00 6.00 7.50 6.75 7.00 6.00 6.75 12.50 6.50 12.50 12.50 10.00 9.00 8.50 7.50 8.50 11.00 7.00 8.50 11.50 13.00 7.00 8.00 10.50 10.00 10.50 12.00 $3.75 4.50 5.50 6.51 5.58 6.97 6.75 6.51 5.58 6. 75 11.66 5.93 11.38 11.66 9.30 8.37 7.90 7.35 8.50 10.67 6.37 7.65 10.69 12.08 6.36 7.44 10.08 9.30 9.95 11.40 » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has iiis own shops; otherwise it stands for the Oirect labor m the cutting room plus the amount paid to contrtictors for makmg up the garments. 880 REPORT OF T.UtIFF BOARD ON SCHEDrUE K. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 881 I Tablb 17a. — Relaii&n of doth cost to total cost of suits — Details for all specimen qar* ments — Cost of cloth per yard, yardage, net selling price ofsuitj anddetaiU of cost — Con. Refers ence No. 74. 13. m. 64. 36. 85. 37. 38. 48. 75. 90. 44. 17. 22. 45. 29.. 30.. 25.. 67.. 117. 19.. 81.. 42.. 83.. 68.. 83.. 91.. 89. 40. 69. 79. m. 09. 87. 24.. n.. 111. 61-. 89-. 62.. 46.. 60.. 67.. 118. 27.. 63.. 68.. i;j3. 2t... o3. . 121. 98.. 113. 134. 43.. 130., 129.. 63.. 109.. 135.. 78... 41.. 96.. 70.. 103.. 131.. Cloth cost per yard net. f0.91 .91 .925 .925 .95 .96 .96 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 i.om 1.025 1.025 1.05 1.057 1.057 1.06 1.06 1.06 1.08 1.08 1.08 1.08 1.10 1.10 l.IO 1.115 1.12 1.12 1.12 1.125 1. 125 1.13 1.17 1.175 1. 195 1.195 1.20 1.20 1.215 1.23 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.26 1.26 1.26 1.26 1.27 1.28 1.28 1.28 1.29 1.29 1.29 1.30 1.32 1.32 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 Yards per suit. S3. 375 3.50 3.375 8.42 3.625 3.50 3.60 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.025 3.05 3.66 3.375 3.375 3.18 8.375 3.375 3.375 3.625 3.66 3.375 3.375 3.50 3.60 3.50 3.50 3.625 3.50 3.375 3.50 3.625 3.18 3. G25 3.42 3.375 3. 375 3.42 3.42 3. 625 3.625 3.375 3.625 3.375 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.625 3.375 3.375 3.66 3.625 3. 375 3.50 3.42 3.42 3.50 8.375 3.50 3.60 3.375 3.42 3.50 3.50 3.375 3. 4^ 3.50 3.625 3.625 Total cloth ost. 13.07 8.19 3.12 3.16 3.35 3.33 3.33 3.46 3.48 3.50 3.50 3.63 3.65 3.71 3.46 3-46 3.34 3.57 3.57 3.58 3.84 3.89 3.65 3.65 3.78 3.89 3.85 3.86 3.99 3.90 3.78 3.92 4.06 3.58 4.03 3.86 3.97 4.08 4.08 4.35 4.35 4.10 4.46 4.22 4.38 4.38 4.38 4.53 4.25 4.25 4.62 4.60 4.32 4.48 4.48 4.41 4.41 4.60 4.39 4.62 4.78 4.49 4. 65 4.65 4.66 4.56 4.62 4.73 4.90 4.90 Trim- mings cost. 11.70 2.26 1,10 2.67 2.67 1.60 2.36 2. 86 1.80 2.08 1 98 2.25 2.32 2,12 1.13 1.50 1.90 1.70 1.70 1.62 1.84 2.54 1.25 1,70 2.02 2.32 2.13 1.75 2.55 1.58 1.53 2.20 2.03 2.42 2.25 2.57 1,70 1,25 2,57 2.57 2.69 2.75 1.85 2.12 1.85 1.75 1.80 2.06 2,42 1,65 1.85 2.28 2.45 1.44 2.05 2.57 2.57 2.90 1.65 2.52 2.77 2.00 2.57 2.53 2-69 1.53 2.57 2.08 2.37 2,85 1 Total material cost. 14.77 5.45 4.22 6.73 6.92 4.93 5.69 5.82 5.28 5.58 5.48 5. 88 6.97 5.83 4.59 4.96 5.24 6.27 6.27 6.20 6.68 6.43 4.90 5.35 5.80 6.21 6-98 5.61 6.64 6.48 5.31 6.12 6.09 6.00 6.33 0.43 6.65 5.22 6.65 6.65 6.94 7,10 6.95 6.58 6.07 6.13 6.18 6.44 6.95 6.10 6.90 7.05 6.76 6.63 7.07 6.98 6.98 7.40 6,04 7,14 7,55 6.49 7.12 7.18 7.35 6.09 7.19 6.81 7.27 7.76 Direct labor cost. 2.87 1.59 3.73 3.37 2.25 2.96 3.54 2.22 2.88 4.86 3.24 2.4d 1.69 1.86 2.45 2.59 2.59 1.56 3.12 4.09 1.93 2.69 2.66 3.24 2,42 2.75 3,40 2.50 2.39 3.04 3.18 3.40 4.86 3.72 2.59 1.82 3.72 4.12 2.92 4. CO 2.59 3.01 2.59 2.30 2.60 3.31 4.38 2.25 2.59 3.03 6.04 1.43 3.13 4.49. 4.12 4.12 4.53 2.26 3.57 3.74 3.04 3.72 6.28 3.25 2.39 4.12 2,65 4,06 4.30 Total cost of material and direct labor. Wholesale selling price. 17,36 8.32 5.81 9.46 0.29 7.18 8.64 9.36 7,77 7,80 8,36 10,74 9.21 8.26 6.28 G.82 7,69 7.88 7.86 6.76 8.80 10.52 6.83 7.94 8.46 9,45 8,40 8.36 9.94 7.98 7.70 9.16 9.27 9.40 11.19 10. 15 8.24 7.04 10.37 10.77 9.86 11.10 8.54 9.59 8.66 8.43 8.78 9.75 11.33 8.15 &69 V. 93 12.09 7.19 9.f>6 11.56 11.10 11.10 11.93 &30 10.71 11.29 9.53 10.84 12.46 10.60 8.48 11.31 9.46 11.33 12.05 Gross. $10.00 12.50 6.90 13.50 11.00 10.00 12.50 13.50 10.00 10.00 10.00 13.00 13.50 10.50 7.50 9.00 10.50 10.00 10.00 8.55 11.60 16,00 8.50 10.00 10.00 14.00 11.50 10.00 13.50 10.00 10,00 12.00 12.50 13.60 15.00 13.50 10.00 8.50 14.50 , 13. 48 12.50 15.00 11.00 13.50 11.00 10.00 12.00 11.50 16.00 10.00 11.00 12.50 17.50 9.00 13.60 16.50 13.49 15.50 17.50 10.50 16.50 16.50 12.50 15.00 17.50 13.00 10.00 13.48 12.50 15.00 16.50 Net. 19.18 11.82 6.90 12.55 10.23 9.30 11.63 12.54 9.30 9.30 10.00 11.83 12.60 9.74 7.50 8.37 9.77 9.18 9.18 8.55 10.70 14.86 7.72 9.18 9.46 13.06 10.70 9.25 12.83 9.30 9.30 11.16 12.13 12.56 13.65 12.55 9.18 8.50 13.48 13.48 11.85 14.25 10.09 12.56 10.01 9.8i 11.16 11.50 14.86 9.08 10.09 11.60 16.26 9.00 12.49 15.01 13.49 14. 41 16.26 9.53 15.61 15.39 11.47 14.02 16.26 12.09 9.30 13.48 11.63 13.95 15.67 Table 17&^Relation of cloth cost to total cost of suits— Details for all specimen gar- meTUs—Cost of cloth per yard, yardage, net selling price of suit, and details of cost— Con. II Refer- ence No. 140. 127. 128. 110. 125. 84.. 71.. 104. 04.. 105. 123. 97.. 108. C5. . 149. 115. 141. 49.. 92.. 143. 124. 119. 106. 114. 112. 142. 66.. 139. 100. 81.. 102. 154. 145. 152., 107., 80.. 132., 122., 148.. 147.. 82... 150.. 146.. 153.. 101.. 120.. 144.. 136.. 137.. 126.. 138.. 155.. 151.. 161.. 162.. 116.. 156.. 165. 157. 160. 158. 163. 166. 167. 169. 159. 164. 168. Cloth cost i)er yard net. 11.38 1.38 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1 42 1.42 1.43 1.43 1.43 1.45 1.45 1.48 1.48 1.49 1.49 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.51 1.51 1.51 1.53 1.58 1.58 1.60 1.60 1,62 1.63 1.67 1.67 1.68 1.71 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.78 1.78 1.78 1.78 1.80 1.80 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1,88 1.91 1.96 1.96 1.97 2.00 2.00 2.11 2.13 2.24 2.25 2.25 2.28 2.35 2.36 2.55 2.75 2.76 Yards per suit. $3.50 3.625 3.42 3.625 3.625 3.66 3.50 3.625 3.375 3.42 3.42 3.50 3.50 3.375 3. 625 3.50 3.75 3.375 3.50 3.625 3.42 3.42 3.50 3.625 3.42 3.625 3.375 3.625 3.375 3.375 3.66 3.66 3.625 3.47 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.025 3.625 3.375 3.42 3.47 3.50 3.375 3.50 3.50 3.625 3.625 3.66 3.625 3.50 3.42 3.50 3.66 3.50 3.50 3.375 3.625 3.50 3.42 3.625 3.60 3.625 3.437 3.625 3.625 3.50 Total cloth cost. $4. SI 4.98 4.79 5.08 5.08 5.12 4.97 5.15 4. S3 4.89 4.89 5.08 5.08 00 36 5.22 59 06 25 5.44 5.16 5.16 5.28 5.55 5.38 5.71 5.40 5.78 5.47 5.49 6.12 6.12 6.07 5.94 6.13 6.13 6.13 6.13 6.34 6.35 6.01 6.09 6.17 6.22 6.08 6.30 6.48 «.71 6.71 6.77 6.80 6.69 6.70 6.86 7.22 7.00 7.00 7.12 7.70 7,84 7.70 8.16 8.15 8,52 8,11 9,25 9.97 9.66 Trim- mings cost. $2.60 2..70 2.57 2.31 2.10 2.36 1.64 3.17 2.00 2.57 2.57 2.13 2.29 2.00 2.64 2.22 3.00 1.35 2.00 2.65 2.57 2.57 2.40 3.01 2.57 2.46 2.00 2.60 2. 2. 40 15 2.51 2.77 3.00 3.01 1.68 2.25 2.35 2.50 2.90 2.70 2.15 2.95 3.01 3.39 2.40 2.25 2.84 3.41 3.41 2.55 3.09 3.14 2.95 2.78 2.81 2.70 2.85 3.11 3.05 3.23 3.50 3.75 2.93 6.18 3.26 3.18 3.15 3.23 Total material cost. $7.41 7.68 7.'36 7.39 7.18 7.48 0.61 8.32 6.83 7.46 7.46 7.21 7.37 7.00 8.00 7.44 8.59 6.41 7.25 8.09 7.73 7.73 7.68 8.56 7.95 8.17 7.40 8.38 7.87 7.64 8.63 8.89 9.07 8.95 7.81 8.38 8.48 8.63 9.24 9.05 8.16 9.04 9.18 9.61 8.48 8.55 Direct labor cost. $5.32 6.47 4.94 3. ,38 4.12 3.24 2.50 3.25 3.04 3.73 3.72 3.25 3.77 3.04 5.41 3.05 5.02 2.08 2.90 5.41 4.12 3.72 3.49 3.15 3.72 5.72 3.04 4.12 3.31 3.23 3.59 5.82 4.60 4.67 2.50 2.80 4.36 5.03 4.28 5.46 3.23 3.72 4.16 5.20 3.31 3.30 9.32 4.19 10.12 3.50 10.12 7.20 9.32 3.84 9.89 3.80 9.83 4.17 9.05 4.12 9.64 4.71 10.03 5.88 9.70 3.05 9.85 4.99 10.23 7.37 10.75 5.51 11.07 4.39 11.20 4.12 11.91 4.28 11.08 5.57 14.70 4.10 11.37 6.08 12.43 4.10 13.12 5.56 12.89 4.92 Total cost of material and direct labor. $12. 73 13.15 12.30 10.77 11.30 10.72 9.11 11.57 9.87 11.19 11.18 10.46 11.14 10.04 13.41 10.49 13.61 8.49 10.15 13.50 11.85 11.45 11.17 11.71 11.67 13.89 10.44 12.50 11.18 10.87 12.22 14.71 13.67 13.62 10.31 11.18 12.84 13.66 13.52 14.51 11.39 12.76 13.34 14.81 11.79 11.85 13.51 13.62 17.32 13.16 13.69 14.00 13.77 14.35 15.91 12.75 14.84 17.60 16.26 15.46 15.32 16.. 19 16.65 18.80 17.45 16.53 18.68 17.81 Wholesale selling price. Gross. $18.50 16.50 16.50 14.50 16.50 13.50 12.50 15.00 12.50 15.00 16.50 14.50 14.00 12.50 20.00 15.50 18.50 10.00 14.00 18.00 15.25 16.00 15.00 15.50 15.50 18.50 12.50 18.50 15.00 13.50 15.00 21.00 18.50 20.00 15.00 12.50 16.00 16.50 20.00 20.00 13.50 20.00 19.50 20.50 15.00 16.00 18.50 18.00 18.00 16.50 18.00 21.00 20.00 23.00 23.50 15.00 22.00 24.50 22.00 22.50 22.00 24.00 25.00 25.00 26.00 22.00 25.00 25.00 Net. 817.19 15.34 15.38 14.07 15.31 12.53 11.63 13.95 11.47 13.95 15 14 13.48 14.00 11.47 18.58 14.42 17.20 10.00 13.02 17.38 15.25 14.88 13.95 14.41 14.35 17.20 11.47 17.17 13.76 12.39 13.92 19.51 17.57 18.66 13.95 12.25 16.00 15.01 18.56 18.20 12.39 18.60 18.19 19.47 13.76 14.88 17.51 16.74 10.74 15.31 16.74 19.59 18.60 21.36 21.85 14.70 20.02 22.76 20.02 21.30 20.46' 22.27 23.22 23.25 24.15 20.46 22.75 23.66 882 BIPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 17b. — Relaiion of chth emt to total emt of overcoats — DetmU fat all gpedmm ffttrmmti^Cost of doth per yard, ywda^, mi mUiny price of overeoai, and details cj cost, [ArrmigCMi accordinf to dotli cost per 'yard.] encO' No. 5.. 15. 13. 2.. 1.. 4,- 8.. 3«a 16. 10. 9-. 10. 6.. 7.. 11 18- 20. IS.. 22. 20. 14. 30. 21. 17. 27. 2«. 26. 35. 25. 28. 38. 38. 31 32. . 43. 34. 37. 39. 40. 41. 43. 44. 45. aotii cost w,r yard, net. Yw 1153 434 2.55 1. 25 132 2.54 1.G9 143 2.90 2.59 2.05 3.72 187 8.67 5.00 2.26 132 6.36 6.42 6.73 4.94 3.11 2.50 6.40 7.60 7.44 7.74 7.18 7.35 444 3.36 3.36 3.40 3.72 3.72 7.95 &9B lwS8 8.55 lau 2.36 2.93 2.50 3.00 454 8.40 8.40 0.40 0.44 0.00 3.72 3.72 4 58 2.60 4 54 8.08 8.68 13.83 0.86 3.72 3.72 3.11 3.72 10.38 11.03 11.82 13.66 4 49 2.86 45l 454 1414 19.03 23.06 8.06 3.72 3.72 Total cost of material and direct labor. 15.78 8.31 7.98 477 5.00 6.80 6.37 5.98 8.97 8.71 7.02 9.91 6.20 7.93 6. 32 11.30 0.83 8.23 10.93 ia95 If* cHl 1114 10.90 1107 lasi 0.43 1155 1465 12.12 12.12 14.07 12.04 13. M 12.40 12.40 16.94 13.57 14.87 13.89 16. 40 18.20 17.19 26.17 Wholesale selling Gross. Net. 10.00 12. 50 11.50 7.50 6.75 10.00 7.50 13.50 ia50 10.00 13.50 O.00 10.00 10.50 13.25 13.50 ILOO 15.00 16.50 12.50 16.50 13.50 15.00 13.50 16.00 15.00 15.50 2a 00 15. .50 Hi. 00 20.00 20.00 18.00 17.50 17.50 24 50 18.00 20.00 20.00 25. (X) 25.00 24.00 34.00 40.00 88.64 11.38 10.46 6.97 6.48 0.26 7.73 7.50 12.28 9.93 9.30 12.55 8.64 9.10 10.06 12.40 12.55 10.23 13.66 15.01 11.33 15.01 12.56 13.96 14.88 13.96 14.66 18. '20 14.35 14.88 IS. 20 18.60 16.33 16.27 10.28 Zi. 18 10.74 IS. 20 19.40 22.75 22.75 23.33 31.62 37.20 »TMs entry represents dlirct labor where the manufacturer hai his own shops; otherwiK it stands tor tie direct labor fa the cutting room plus the amount p&ld to contractors for making up tlie garuieats. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDULE K. 883 Table 17c.— Hclaiion of doth cost to total cost of pants— Details for all specimen gar- menu — Cost of cloth per yard, yardage, net selling price of pants, and details of cost. [Arraagad acooxdiag to cloth cost per yard.] Refer- Cloth cost per yard, net. Yards per pants. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost.i Total cost of material and direct labor. Wholesale selling price. ence Xo. Gross. Net. • 1 2 6 3 4 7 6 8 9 10 to. 58 .63 .83 .85 .90 1.03 1.25 140 1.70 2.00 126 134 134 1.22 129 134 129 129 129 134 fa 72 .84 1.11 104 1.16 1.37 1.61 181 2.19 2.68 10.14 .13 .16 .20 .20 .18 .22 .26 .25 .23 10.86 .97 127 124 136 155 1.83 2.06 2.44 2.91 80.30 .52 .68 .39 .39 .57 .49 .58 .58 .65 1116 149 1.85 1.63 175 2.12 2.32 2.64 3.02 3.56 $150 2.00 2.50 2.25 2.25 3.00 3.00 3.50 400 5.00 $135 1.80 2.28 2.09 2.09 2.73 2.70 3.15 3.64 455 CONCLUSIONS AS TO MEN's CLOTHING. The complete investigation of men's clothing indicates that at least 40 per cent of the wholesale selling price of garments is expended on cloth and woolen Imings. Assuming retail prices to be at least 50 per cent higher than wholesale prices, it is clear that about 25 per cent of the price paid by the consumer of ready-made clothing goes for woolens. The data collected also indicated further that the cost of woolens is considerably more important m the popular-priced garments having wide sale than in more expensive clothing. COMPLETE COST OF TYPICAL MEN's GARMENTS. The board now presents certain typical specimens of men's clothing, traced not only through the processes of clothing manufacture, but followed through cloth making and the manufacture of yarn as well. In two cases, one where the fabric is a worsted and one where the fabric is a woolen, the costs are carried through to the yam. In one suit tlie costs are extended through to the raw wool itself. These are tj^pical, and it is therefore not deemed necessary to trace the others beyond the manufacture of the cloth that goes into the garments. There have been selected for such detail five 3-piece suits representing the five general grades of manufacture. These are — A. — Regular wholesale price ^iq 5q Net wholesale price (average realized ) is! 39 Retail price * ' 23 00 B. — ^Regular wholesale price j 9 50 Net wholesale price (avemgo realized ) 11 66 Retail price -'.*-".*'.'.'.".'.*.'.".".". 18.00 C. — WTiolesale price (net) k ka Retail price.......... -■--"."-■."-'."-*.::::::::::::;: i% D . — Retail price g 35 E. — Regular wholesale price 24. 00 Net wholesale price (average realized) .' [ [ 22. 27 Retail price .....**.*"" 35. 00 There is also given a standard single-breasted overcoat — F. — ^Regular wholesale price 513 59 Net wholesale price (average realized) .V....V.\..... 12. 55 Retail price ]"*"""!!] 20. 00 » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the dii-ect labor m the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors lor making up the garments. el 1*1 m 884 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABB OK SCHEDiri.E K. These retaU prices are taken as 50 per cent more than the net wholesale price, which the board considers a fair estimate of the lowest figures at which such garments are sold. In certam cases it has been found that the retail price ran much higher than this 50 per cent. A. — Thkbe-Piece Sutt. ■Reinilar wholesale price, $16.50. , . , , . ,. *\ •ikjo Net wholesale price (amount realized after deducting average discount), 115.39. Retail price, $23 and up. Cloth: Fancy worsted. Chthing manufacture. COST OF STOCK. Trimmings: Body lining, tO.SSJ per yard; f f J® Jj.^»!Jf » J?-V\?*^r Jf v^J^t n 4'> Number of yards of cloth per suit: (a) Coat 1.8; (6) pants, 1.45, (c) vest, 0.45. Cost of cloth used in suit: (o) Per yard, J1.328: (6) total, f4.78. Items. Cost of cloth Cost of trimmings.. Credit waste Total stock cost Add freight Total Coat. 1.963 4.353 .024 4.329 .025 4.354 Pants. $1. 793 .278 2.071 .018 2.053 .019 2.072 CONVERSION COST. Items. Coat. Sponging and examining Cutting Trimming Fitting Operating Basting Finishing Button sewing Buttonholes Pressing Busheling Miscellaneous Examining finished product . . Total productive labor. 2.230 Pants. SO. 040 10.030 .146 .109 .034 .025 .0.55 .010 .380 .2.55 .818 .035 .345 .138 .037 .040 .130 .450 .150 .068 .050 .210 jm .017 .013 Vest. 10.010 .a37 .008 .030 .188 .060 .027 .023 .107 .123 .025 .005 .004 .863 .647 SUMMARY. Items. Total stock cos t ' • Conversion c^st .--•.•--■- Factory expense distributed to eacli garment on ba-sis of pro- ductive labor in each garment Total factory cost - - — Selling and general expense distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of totafselling and general expense to total value of output Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense). Coat. t4.3M 2.230 .669 7.253 Pants. 12.072 .863 .259 3.194 Vest. $1. 124 .647 .194 1.965 Vest. .527 1.124 .006 1.118 .006 1.124 Suit. SO. OS .292 .067 .095 .823 .413 .510 .100 .237 .723 .143 .228 .034 3.740 Suit. 17.550 3.740 1.122 12. 412 1.908 14.320 I EEPOKX OF TABIFF BO.UEID ON SCHEDULE K. 885 Cloth making. Name of cloth: Fancy worsted suiting. Number of warp ends to 1 inch 73 Number of picks to 1 inch 61 Width in reed 65^ Width of goods finished 57 Weight of cloth per yard 1 1 j^^ Pounds of cloth to 1,000 yards 693f COST OF STOCK FOR 1,000 YARDS. Items. Kind of yarn. Count of yam. Pounds. Cost of yam per pound. Total cost. Warp: 39,92 ends iblood.... Silk- - 2/40 60/2 394.7 3.4 $1.06 3.90 $418.38 152 ends 13 26 4,144 ends Waste 10.0 351.0 8.8 10.60 Wcft:61 picks Jblood.... Waste 2/40 1.06 372 06 9.33 Total stock 767.9 823 63 CONVERSION COST FOR 1,000 YARDS. Productive or direct labor is actual labor applied directly to stock in its conversion, including proportion of wages paid to second hands and subforcmen properly chargeable to eacrh department. Nonproductive or indirect labor is indirect labor employed in department, tnchiding overseers, foremen, carriers, etc., but not including general and repair labor, which are provided for under general expense. Department materials are materials other than stock used in department; for example, soap for scouring, oil for oiling stock, dyes and chemicals for dyeing, etc. Items. Dressing (including drawing in). Weaving Burling Mending Remcnaing, si)eclcing, etc Dyeing and fiuishmg General expense Total conversion cost. Cost of stock Net manufacturing cost 1,000 yards. Productive or direct labor. $10. 94 122.00 10.00 28.00 4.50 Nonproduc- tive or indirect labor. $1.56 38.00 1.00 1.00 .50 Depart- ment materials. $6.00 11.20 Total cost. $18.50 171.20 11.00 29.00 5.00 55.00 152.00 441.70 823.63 1,265.33 Manufacturing cost per yard $i. 265 Selling price per yard (net) 1. 328 Spinning 1,000 pounds of worsted yarn No. 2140. COST OF STOCK. Pounds tops required for manufacture of 1,000 pounds yam 1436 Cost of tops per pound $0. 77 Total cost of tops $874. 72 CONVERSION COST. •It^ms. Drawing. Spinning. Twisting. Spooling Warping on Jack spools. General expense Total conversion cost. Cost of stock Less credit waste, 85, at $0.37 Net manufacturing cost (1,000 pounds). Pounds of material entering each process. 1,136 1,090 i,o;i7 1.020 1,010 Productive or direct labor. $20.18 29.31 24. 54 11.37 12.51 97.91 Nonpro- ductive or indirect labor. $1.62 1.80 1.02 .75 .75 5.94 Total cost. $21.80 31.11 25.56 12.12 13.28 110.08 213.93 874. 72 31.45 1,057.20 Manufacturing cost per pound $1.06 32080**— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 18 886 BIFOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULB K. Top moling. COST OF STOCK ENTERING MANUFACTURE OF 1,000 POUNDS OF TOPS. Items. Raw wool: Half-blood Ohio (unwashed) Less credit noils and waste Less credit waste Net total. Pounds. 3,125 ISO 60 PtIo© per pound. Tot^ cost. 10.25 .32 .17 } 1781.25 66.10 715. 15 CONVERSION COST 1,000 POUNDS OF TOPS. Itema. Sorting and blending:. Soouririi' 1. Carding Combing General expense. Total conversion cost Oosrt" of ^^toolc Total manufacturing cost (1,0U0 pounds). Material entering each process. Founds. 3.125 3.125 1,250 1,200 Productive or direct labor. 17.22 3.37 „l,^ Nonpro- ductive or indirect labor. Depart- ment materials. 15.18 .61 1.22 16.56 2.60 15.47 7.01 9.16 Total cost. S18.96 3.98 8.70 23.82 55. 4e 715.15 770.61 ManutMjtuiing cost per pound W. 77 CX)8T OF WOOL. The cloth in this suit is made of half-blood Ohio wool. It is esti- mated that such wool grown in the Ohio region during 1910 carried an average flock expense charge of at least 16 cents a pound. This does not include interest on the investment in the sheep; and all profits above bare production cost of the crops fed to the flock is eliminated. For this wool 23 cents a pound was received by the grower. The cost at the mill was 25 cents a pound. The amount of wool required for each yard of cloth going into this suit is 2.7 pounds. As it required 3.6 yards of cloth to make the suit, the amount of wool in the whole suit would be 9.7 pounds. At a cost of 16 cents a pound, the total cost of raising the wool for tliis suit would be $1.55. Out of 25 cents per pound, the price paid by the manufacturer, the woolgrower would receive $2.23, or a margm of 68 cents. Wliile the average Ohio flock covered by the board's investigation, as reported elsewhere^ consists of about 200 sheep, shearing an average of 7.6 pounds of wool, the general flock average of the entire State is but 55, and the general shearing average of the State 6.5 pounds per head. Using this as a basis, it appears that at 23 cents per pound selling price there would be a return of $1.49 J per fleece, the actual cost of which was not less than $1.04, leaving an apparent profit of 45i cents per fleece. This indicates that the owner of 55 average sheep of shearing age in the average flock would receive $25.02 as the proceeds of a year's maintenance. I' BfiPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. B.— Three-Piece Suit. 887 Regular wholesale price, $12.50. Net wholesale price (amount realized after deducting average discount), $11.66. , Retail price, f 18 and up. Cloth: Fancy woolen. Clothing manufacture. COST OF STOCK. Trimminps: Body Ilnlnj?, $0.3*?J per vard; sleeve lininp, $0.18 per yard. Number of yards of cloth used per suit: Coat, 1.83; pants, 1.37; vest, 0.45. Cost of cloth used in suit, per yard 10.78, total $2,847. Items. Coat. Pants. Vest. Cost of cloth 11.427 1.602 .024 $1,068 .278 .018 $0 352 Trimmings .377 Less credit waste ' OOS Total stock cost 3.005 .025 1.328 .019 723 Freight noft Total cost 3.030 1.347 r?q CONVERSION COST. Sponging and exaraininK Cutting Trimming Fitting Operating Basting Finishing Button sewing Buttonholes Pressing Busheling Miscellaneous Examining finished product. Total productive Ixhor. $0.04 $0,030 .146 .109 .034 .025 .055 .008 .400 .227 .303 .023 .200 .137 .(S5 .030 .110 .372 .128 .070 .032 .118 .005 .017 .013 1.900 .767 $0,010 .087 .008 .030 .180 .038 .022 .013 .08g .117 .020 .003 .004 .575 SUMMARY. Net stock cost (Conversion cost Factory expense distributed to each garment ou basis of pro- ductive labor in each garment Total factory cost Belling and general expense distributed on basis of ratio of total ielling and general expense to total value of output Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense). Coat. $3,030 1.900 .570 5.500 Pants. $1,347 .767 .230 2.344 Vest. $0,729 .575 .172 1.476 Suit. $5,106 3.242 .972 9.320 1.445 10.765 Cloth milking. DESCRIPTION OF CLOTH. Name of cloth: Fancy woolen. Number of warp ends to 1 inch 35 Number of picks to llnch 24 Width In reed. 64J Width of finished goods 55 Weight of cloth per yard ]]!.!![!" 24 Pounds of cloth to 1,000 yards ".!!!!.!!!."!!!!.".!.."..... 1, 500 COST OF STOCK FOR 1,000 YARDS OF CLOTH. Kind of yarn. Count of yarn. Pounds. Cost of yarn per pound. Total cost. Warp: 2.040 ends \ blood and shoddy . . . Waste IJrun... 975 58.6 798 52.07 $0.29 $282.75 17 00 W«f t : 24 picks } blood and shoddy. . . waste limn... .29 231.42 Total stock 1,883.07 546.27 ■"*«■ 888 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Cloth mGling — Continued. COXVERSION COST, 1,000 YARDS. Prodiictivp or direct laTioT Is actual labor applied directly to stock In Its conyeTslon, bicltidtog proportion of waces paid to second hands and subforenieri proi>erlv chargea»)le to e.icii department. NoPOToductive or indirwt labor is indirect labor cmpioyed in department, including overseers, foremen, earners etc . but not Including general and repair labor, which are provided for under gtineral expense. SStiSAt S materials other than stoc-k. used iu department; for example, soap for scour- Ing, oil for oiling stock, dyes and chemicals for dyeing, etc. Prod tic tive or direct labor. Spooling Dressing (including drawing in) Weaving Burling Mending Ilemending, specking, etc Wet flnishmg Dry finishing and inspecting General expense 12. 10 3.00 30.11 4.00 5.00 1.50 5.00 3.0O Total conversion cost. Cost of stock Less credit waste Net manufacturing cost, 1,000 yards. 50.71 Nonpro- pepart- dUCtlve or rn«>nt TnatB- Indirect "^^^t mate- labor. rials. $5.00 I fi.oO 5.00 1.50 Total cost for 1,000 yards. 12.10 3.00 41.11 4.00 6.00 1.50 6.50 3.00 56.50 122.71 546.27 7.50 661.48 Manufacturing cost per yard ^-^"^A Selling price per yard " Making of uoohn yani—Xo. 1} run 1,000 pounds. [Wool and shoddy.] COST OF STOCK. Fo-i^-j^JS' Total cost. fm $0.26 750 .05 1216. 58 Shoddy 37.50 Total 1,683 2.'>4.08 ........... ......••.. 51.36 202.72 £%V% COSX. 1 1 COST OF CONVERSION. Sorting and picking shoddy. Scouring Stock dyeing Mixing and picking Carding Spinning General expense Material Productive entering or direct each proc- labor. ess. Pounds. 750 SI. 88 833 .83 1,250 3.75 : 1,250 2.50 1,250 7.50 1,066 9.59 Nonpro- ductive or indirect labor. Depart- ment mate- rials. SO. 60 2.07 21.25 3.00 Total conversion cost . Cost of slock 26.05 26.92 Total cost. S2.48 2.90 25.00 5.50 7.50 9.69 35.00 87.97 202.72 Total manufacturing cost, 1,000 yards. 290.69 Manufacturing cost per yard. SO. 29 •^ |( ,. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 889 C— Thkee-Fiece Suit. Wholesale price (net), $5.50. Retail price, $8.50 and up. Cloth: Fancy casaimere. Clotkmg manufacture. SUIT. Stock cost: Trimming: Cotton Italian lining; cotton sleeve lining. Number of yards of cloih used in suit, ?>\. Cost of cloth, per yard, $0.65. Totiil cost Cost of trimmmgs Total stock cost. Labor cost: $2.11 LOO 3.11 Items. Sponging, examining and cutting Making (contract price) coat SO. 70, imntsSO.30, vest SO. 23. Overliead factory expense Suit. SO. 03 1.23 .09 Total. 1.35 SUMMARY. Total stock cost $3. 11 Conversion cost 1-35 Total factory cost : - - 4. 46 Selling expense dLstributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total selling expense to total value of output 25 General expense distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total general expense to total value of output 25 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 4. 96 Cloth making. Stock $0,425 Spooling, doubling, and twisting , 016 Weaving - 068 Burling, mending, and specking — 025 Finishmg 016 General expense 051 Net manufacturing cost 601 Selling price - 65 D. — Three-Piece Suit. Wholesale price (net), $9.35. Retail price, $15 and up. Cloth: Fancy caaeimere. Clothing manufacture. Stock cost: Trimmings, cotton linings. Number of yards of cloth used in suit, 3§. Cost of cloth used in suit, per yard, $0.83 ; total cost $2. 91 Cost of trimmings 1. 19 Total stock cost 4. 10 Labor cost: Sponging 04 Cutting, and trimming 45 Making coat, $0.85; pants, $0.40; vest, $0.31 1. 56 Examining finished suit 03 Overhead factory expense 44 Total manufacturing cost 2. 52 890 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. SUMMARY. Net stock cost 2 52 Manufacturing cost *" Total factory cost \'"."'r""'"VVl'{" u' ' ' Selling expense distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total eelimg expense to total value of output ....... ... - - . - - - - -■■-■-: • General expense distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total general expense to total value of output ' Final cost, including selling and general exi>ense 8. 25 • Cloth nmhing. Costperyard: ^ r,^ Stock - Qlj Expense to weaving ^^ Weaving ; - - r^^ Burling, mending, and linishmj? ^ General expense ' ' 791 Net manufacturing cost ^^'■ Selling price E.— Three-Fibck Suit. Resrular wholesale price, $21. , . , , . j- , ©o*) ot Net wholesale price (amount realized after deducting average discount ., $22.27. Retell price, $35 and up. Cloth: Fancy woolen. Clothiiij manufacture. Stock cost: Trimmin£3:s„ serge body limngB. Number of yards of cloth used in suit, Sf. Costofclothused, per yard $2.44, total *»• J^ Cost of trimmings '^ Freight ' Total stock cost Labor cost: q.^j Sponging and examining ^^ Cutting •- 'qqj Trimming - • ■ -.- • q' 7«fi Making coat. $2.45; pants, $0.76; vest, $0.o7 ^- '^^ Total productive labor J^ SUMMARY. Net stock cost 7 9h Factor^^xpense'distributed to eac h garment on basis of productive labor in ^^ each garment ' Total factory cost - .-•-.--•:•-;:•■ */ * ' * ; * • V, • •;, ^^' ^"^ Selling expense distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total eeUing ^ expense to total value of output. • ' " T " ■ " f " " f';"^' ;,#; :.;;i m np'rVl "" GeneJTil expense distributed to each garment on l>asi3 of ratio of total general expense to total value of output ___1. Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 20. 61 Ati i 1 KEPOET OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 891 Cloth making. Cost per yard: ^^ ^^„ ^tock $1-642 Expense to weaving 054 Weaving ™ Weaving to finished cloth 228 General expense • 1^ Total manufacturing cost 2. 2G3 Credit waste -^^ Net manufacturing co^t 2. 259 Selling price 2.44 F.— Single-Bre.\sted Overcoat. Regular wholesale price, $13,50. Net wholesale price (average realized after deducting average discount), $12.55. Retail price, $20 and up. Cloth: Piece-dyed fancy worsted. Clothing manufacture. Stock cost: Trimmings, mohair lining, satin sleeve lining, linen canvas. Number of yards of cloth used in coat, 2}. Cost of cloth, per yard $1.06, total $2.65 Cost of trimmings 3. 60 Freight 04 Less credit waste -O^ Total stock cost 6.26 Labor cost: Sponging and examining 020 Cutting 300 Trimming • 080 Fitting 100 Operafing , 566 Basting "oJ- Finishing 784 Button sewing 040 Buttonholes 160 Pressing 596 Busheling 060 Examining finished product 020 Factory expense 760 Total 4.167 SUMMARY. Net stock cost $6. 260 Conversion cost 4. 170 Selling expense distributed on basis of ratio of total selling expense to total value of output 608 General expense distributed on basis of ratio of total general expense to total value of output .376 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 11. 414 ^ ^ J Cloth making, Costperyard: ^ Stock $0,700 Expense to weaving 016 Weaving Q78 Burling and mending 038 Dyeing and finishing 080 General expense '090 Total manufacturing expense 1. 002 Less credit waste '001 Net manufacturing cost 1. 001 Selling price 1*06 1 I I 892 BEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. vomen's clothing. The women's clothing industry in general presents the same characteristics as that of the men's. There is the same feature of urban concentration and in even a higher degre(\ Accordmg to the census of 1910, New York aty alone produced $266,500,000 out of a total of $385,000,000, the proportion of that city being over two- thirds of the entire industry. In view of this situation it was deemed sufficient to restrict the present investigation to that center. The follo^dng table shows the geographical distribution of this industry in 1905 and in 1910: Table 1$.— Concentration of women's cloUnng industry, 1905 and 1910, Locality. United States . New York Philadelphia Chicago Cleyeland 1W5 1910 Value of product. Per cent of total, output. Value of product. 1247,661,560 100.0 $384,751,649 100.0 168,418,895 t>8.0 266, 477, ri 69.0 12.871,357 5.2 30,132,842 7.9 ll.ti36,818 4.8 15,676.925 4.3 7,427,553 3.0 12,788,775 3.3 Per cent of total, output. Under the term ''women's clothing" there are embraced a much larger variety of products of the needle trades than under the term *' men's clothing.''^ For purposes of this investigation attention was given only to establishments engaged in the production of skirts, suits, and coats. Even here the industry does not present the same simplicity as men's clothing. The latter is made for the most part from woolen materials. There is, however, a great variety and range of material used in the cloak and suit industry, and changing style and fashion play an important part in the material used. A state- ment of the relative importance of woolens for the industry m one year, or for one season, is, therefore, not necessarily descriptive of the general situation. v«! ix In women's clotliing, as in men's, there is the inherent difficulty of finding any standard product on which cost of production can be uniformly obtained. For the puipose of this investigation data were secured for the costs of production on coats, skirts, and suits. In general the same methods were pursued here as in the men's m- dustry. Data were obtained for specimen garments and supple- mented by statements for the year's business. Here, however, state- ments for this year's business are not as informing as in the men's clothing industry. As practically all men's outer street garments are made of wool, a statement of the cost of woolens for the year gave the proportionate wool cost in the average garment produced. In this industr}^ however, few houses make exclusively woolen garments. An analysis of the materials used and their costs does not, therefore, necessarily give the averajge cost of materials per garment. Such data must here be taken from the figures for specimen garments, and accordingly more stress was laid on this information. I L V V KEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 893 Here, as in the men's clothing industry, the contract system plays a ^ large part, though not so large as in the latter. For this reason it is equally difficult to obtain what mi§:ht be called direct labor costs. The essential information secured in this investigation is summa- rized in two series of tables. The first series shows for skirts, coats, and suits, the (1) cloth cost, the (2) cost of trimmings, the (3) manufac- turing cost. On the basis of the year's figures there is shown also the selMng price and general expense, in the last item overhead factory expense is calculated on the basis of the yearly data and does not represent direct statement of the manufacturer. The second general series of tables show for the year the material cost, the manufacturing costs— direct labor and overhead factory men s cioi/Uiiig invustigatiuii. j-u xo i,xj»v x.^^xv^ ^^.... ^^ ^.^ ^j -~- ing the itfems of cost just specified. It does not represent net protits, for from it must be deducted officers' salaries or compensation for services of members of fu-ms, interest on the capital invested or money borrowed, and losses through bad debts or otherwise. 'The yearly figures are for 1909 with very few exceptions. The data for 1909 were taken because they were deemed to be representative of normal conditions. The figures for 1910 would have been unsatis- f actoiy owing to the disturbing influence of the strike. Inasmuch as the yearly figures do not show the total cost of woolens used, the chief value of tliis table is in the view it presents of the general conch- tions of the industry, the importance of the material cost, of conver- sion cost, labor anil general factory expense, selling cost, and gen- eral expenses. . i r i. In the present investigation data were secured from 17 establish- ments, and of these, U furnisliing detailed information had an out- put of $12,000,000 net sales. This represents approximately 5 per cent of the total output of women's clothing as reported by the census for New York City. The proportion for establishments engaged in the manufacture of cloaks, suits, and skirts is considerably higher. DATA FOR SPECIMEN GARMENTS. The data for specimen garments were obtained for the year 1911, for fall and winter styles. It will be convenient to consider here sepa- rately skirts, cloaks, and suits. SKIRTS. In skirts the cloth is practically the only material of importance. Here data were obtained for skirts ranging in wholesale pnces from $2.50 net to about $7. These data show that in all grades the cloth cost is 40 per cent. The cost of other materials is about 5 per cent. The total material cost is substantially 45 per cent. The manufac- turing expense for direct labor and overhead expense is about 30 per CftTl t Below are shown the selhng price for typical skirts, gross and net, and the details of cost for material, labor, factory expense, selling expense, general expense, and profits. J 894 RBPOBT OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Table 10.--Analifm oj costs of tifpical sHris, mUing price, and details of costs, arranged in €mkr of lut seUing price. Wholesale Bdling price. Ooth oust per ' net. Yards I.er SKirt. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. • Total laitorial cost. Direct latwr cost.i Manufac- turing expense.' Cost of manufoo* tured skirt. ence Mo. Gross. Net. 1.... 2.... 3.... 4.... 6.... 6. . . . 7.... 12.62 3.50 4.W 4.50 5.00 5.00 7.00 $2.53 3.29 3.86 4.36 4.83 4.85 6-S6 10.515 .675 .715 .75 .75 .75 1.15 S2.00 2.50 2.00 2.375 2.50 2.75 2.50 SLOi 1.41 1.43 1.78 l.&S 2.06 2. 83 .17 .25 .20 .25 .15 .50 11.18 1.01 1.68 1.98 2.13 2.21 3.38 10.65 1.06 1.00 1.11 1.15 1.12 1.70 10.18 .27 .27 .28 .31 .29 .40 S2.01 2.94 2.95 3.37 3.59 3.G3 5.54 » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in llie cutting room pins the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. » At the rates shown for the year 1909. The following table repeats the chief items of cost in readily com- parable form and showing such items as percentages of the net selling ]>rice: Tablb 20.— Analysis of costs of typical sHrtsfbr different ffmdea of clothing. [Details of cost expressed as percentages of net sdllng price.] Refer- eiice No. Xet vhole- fMileselUng price. Tot.il cloth cost. Trimmlnp oost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost.' Manuffto turing expense." Cost of 1 manufao- tured skirt. 1 2 3-. 4 6. 100.00 10(\ 00 im.m 100.00 100.00 100.00 1(J0.00 40.71 42.48 37.04 40.82 3.i92 42. 4S 41. 98 5. 93 5. 01 6.4S 4.50 5.18 3.09 7.29 46.64 47.49 43.52 45.41 44.10 45.57 49.27 25.09 31.27 25.91 25.46 23. a 23.09 24.73 • 7.11 7.97 6.99 6.42 6.42 5.99 6.71 79.44 86.73 76.42 77.29 74,33 74.65 80.7fl 1 This entry represents direct latior where the manulacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. t At the rates showa for the jear 1900. COATS OE CLOAKS. On coats the cost of cloth is less important than it is on skirts J" on the other hand, the cost of trimming is very much more important, and the conversion cost absorbs a larger percentage of the selling price of the garment. For coats selling at wholesale for less than $12, the cloth cost is equal to about 35 per cent of the net selling price. In garments selling above this figure and as high as $30, the cloth cost seems to be in general less than 30 per cent and on very expensive coats the cloth cost falls below 20 per cent. The cost of tnmming shows much greater variation than the cost of cloth, rising, however, both absolutely and relatively, with the cost of the garment. The extensive vogue of the reversible coat this year probably tends to exaggerate the importance of the cloth cost for coats. It is sufficient to note that cloth is far more important an item of cost on cheap garments than on more expensive coats. The conversion cost on cheap coats is nearly as great as the cloth cost, and on more expensive garments it is greater than the entire cost of the materials used. % KEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDITLE K. 895 Below are shown the details of selling price and cost for typical coats: Table 21. — Analysis of costs of typical coats, selling price, and details (f costs, arranged in order of net selling price. Ref- er- Wholesale selling price. Cloth cost per yard net. Yards per coat. Totel cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost.i Manu- factur- ing expense.' Cost of manu- factured coat. enoe No. Gross. Net. 1... $.'5.50 $.5.30 10.65 3.25 $2.11 $1.00 $3.11 $1.79 $0.13 $5.03 2... 7.00 6.74 .74 3.25 2.41 1.70 411 1.94 .14 6.19 3... 8.00 7.70 .88 3.25 2.86 2.31 5.17 2.14 .16 7.47 4... 10.75 9.97 .75 4.50 3.38 .95 433 3.25 .41 7.99 6... 12.00 11.13 .90 4.25 3.83 .85 468 3.50 .44 8.62 6... 12.50 12.04 1.12 3.25 3.64 3.64 7.28 2.69 .20 10.17 7... 13.75 13.48 1.10 3.625 3.99 2.22 6.21 3.51 1.00 10.72 8... 15.00 13.92 .95 4.00 3.80 2.70 6.50 4 00 .50 11.00 9... 14.60 13.96 1.12 3.50 3.92 2.70 6.62 2.79 .21 9.62 10... 16.50 15.18 1. 372.5 3.50 480 .67 5.47 442 .82 10.71 11... 17. 50 16.24 1.075 4.25 467 3.00 7.57 450 .56 12.63 12... 18.50 17.02 .90 3.75 3.38 4 37 7.75 483 • {K7 13.47 13... 20.00 18.56 2.25 425 9.56 2.80 12.36 3.50 .44 16.30 14... 22. 50 21.09 .80 4 50 3.60 3.33 6.93 8.84 3.11 18.88 15... 23.50 21.81 1.75 4.25 7.44 3.70 U.14 5.37 .67 17.18 16... 23.50 21.95 1.50 4.00 6.00 3.65 9.65 6.08 1.68 17.41 17... 30.00 27.84 1.50 4.00 6.00 7.30 13.30 7.00 .88 21.18 18... a5.oo 32.81 1.5,5 400 6.20 7.13 13.33 8.58 3.02 24 93 19... aioo 32.81 2.24 3.50 7.84 6.42 13.26 10.07 3.54 26.87 20... 42.50 39.84 L36 3.75 6.10 6.48 1L58 15.58 5.48 32.64 1 This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops, otherwise it stands fcr the direct labor in the cutting room plus tlie amount paid to contract<»s for making up tlw garments. * At the rates shown for the year 1909. Tlie following table repeats the important items of cost in terms of percentages of the net selling price: Table 22. — Analysis of costs of typical coats for different grades of clothing. [Details of cost expressed as percentages of net selling price.] Refer- ence No. Net whole- sale selling price. Total cloth cost. Trimmings eost. Total mate- rial cost. Direct labor cost.i Manufac- turing ex- pense.* Cost of man- ufactured coat. 1 100.00 39.81 18.87 68.68 33.77 2.45 94.90 2 100.00 35. 76 25.22 60.98 28.78 2.08 91.84 3 100.00 37.14 • 30.00 67.14 27.79 2.08 97.01 4 100.00 33.90 9.53 43.43 32.60 411 80.14 5 100.00 34 41 7.64 42.05 31. 45 3.95 77.45 6 100.00 30.23 30.23 60.46 22.34 1.66 84 46 7 100.00 29.60 16.47 46.07 26.04 7.42 79.53 8 100.00 27.30 19.40 46.70 28.73 3.59 79.02 9 100.00 28.08 19.34 47.42 19.99 1.50 68.91 10 100.00 31.62 4 41 36.03 29.12 5.40 70.55 11 100.00 28.14 18.47 46.61 27.71 3.45 77.77 12 100.00 19.88 25.67 45.53 28.38 6.23 79.14 13 100.00 61.51 15.08 66.50 18.86 2.37 87.82 14 100.00 17.07 15.79 32.86 41.92 14 75 89.52 15 100.00 3411 16.97 6L08 24 62 3.07 78.77 16 100.00 27.33 16.63 43.96 27.70 7.65 79.32 17 100.00 21.55 26.22 47. 77 25.14 3.16 76.08 18 100.00 18.90 21.73 40.63 26.15 9.20 75.98 19 100.00 23.90 16.52 40.42 30.69 10.79 81.90 20 100.00 12.80 16.27 29.07 39.10 13.76 8L93 . 1 This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for makmg up the garments. a At the rates shown for the year 1909. &96 BEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Below is a brief summary of the above details: Table 23a. — Anclym of costs of typieal coats for different grades of clothing, average ulllng price mid costs — Summary. Range of net whole- sale selling price. Xet whole- sale scUing price. Esti- mated retail price. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost.i Manu- facturing expense. - Cost of manu- factured coat. tTniler$!2 $8.17 17.76 35.15 J14.00 31.00 50.00 S3. 92 5.03 6.38 SI. 36 3.34 6.34 14.28 8.40 12.72 S2.52 4.79 11.41 SO. 26 .91 4.01 17.0ft |12toS29.!» 14.10 Overf30 28.14 1 This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherv.ise it stands for the direct lalx>r in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. « At the rates shown for the year iy09. Table 236. — Aimlysis of costs of typical coats for different grades of clothing — Summary — A verage selling price and costs. [Details of costs expressed as percentages of net selling price.] Eange of net wholesale selling price. Under S12.- S12 to $29.99 Over $30.... Xet whole- sale selling price. 100.00 100.00 100.00 Total cloth cost. 35.74 Trim- mings cost. 16.65 18.81 18.04 Total material cost. 52.39 47.30 36.19 Direct labor cost.i 30.84 26.07 32.46 Manu- facturing expense. ' 3.18 5.12 11.41 Cost of manu- factured coat. 86.41 79.39 80.06 » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct laV>or in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contiactors for making up the gaiments. > At the rates shown for the year 1909. SUITS. On suits the cloth cost is far less important than for either skirts or coats. Trimmings are here verv important, and on the more expensive garments often account for the larger part of the material cost. The trimmings used are, moreover, chiefly silk for the hiiinjj and braid or embroidery. Th© conversion cost, or wages of labor and factory expense, is here the most important element in the cost of the garment. On the whole it appears that the cloth cost is most important in the cheaper priced garments. Thus in garments selling at wholesale for less than $20 the cloth is about 25 per cent. On the more expen- sive garments the cloth cost is generally below 20 per cent. While the cloth cost is not as important as on coats, it is still the chief material used. The labor cost, or more correctly the factory cost, ranges between 35 and 45 per cent, being more important than the cost of all materials used. The higher labor cost is found in the more expensive garment. BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 897 Below are shown the details for selling price and costs for typical suits: Table 24. — Analysis of costs of typical suits, selling price, and details of costs, arranged in order of net selling price. Refer- ence Wholesale selling price. Cloth cost per yard, net. Yards per suit. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost.i Manu- factur- ing ex- pense. 2 Cost of manu- fac- No. Gross. Net. tured suits. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10.... 11.... 12.... 13.... 14.... 15.... 16.... 17.... $8.78 15.50 16.50 20.00 20.00 20.00 22.60 25.00 26.50 27.50 27.50 30.00 30.00 30.00 35.00 42.50 50.00 $8.58 15.20 13.84 18.40 18.68 19.20 20.92 23.25 24.38 25.30 25.:J0 27.75 27.90 28.02 32.37 39.31 46.25 $1.10 1.10 .93 .92 1.00 1.05 .8.5 .85 1.15 1.02 1.10 .98 1.15 1.40 .98 1.02 l.Gl 3.25 3.025 4.00 4.25 4.50 4.50 4.25 3.75 4.625 4..'i0 4.75 4.25 4.375 5.00 4.33 4.625 4.25 $3.58 3.99 3.72 3.92 4.50 4.73 3.61 3.19 5.32 4.59 5.23 4.17 5.03 7.00 4.24 7.49 6.84 $0.42 2.36 1.68 3.12 3.30 1.68 3.40 4.10 3.60 5.62 2.25 3.13 4.94 4.30 6.33 6.14 4.98 $4.00 6.35 5.40 7.04 7.80 6.41 7.01 7.29 8.92 10.21 7.48 7.30 9.97 11.30 10.57 13.63 11.82 $2.14 4.31 6.10 5.40 5.85 7.46 8.80 8.80 6.94 7.59 9.85 10.10 9.50 8.87 11.35 13.60 15.10 $0.61 1.23 .82 1.00 1.61 1.01 .58 .58 1.28 1.41 3.26 3.18 .63 2.44 3.68 4.28 4.76 $6.75 11.89 12.32 13.44 15.26 14.88 16.39 16.67 17.14 19.21 20.59 20.58 20.10 22.61 25.60 31.51 31.68 » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops, otherwise it stands for direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. » At the rate shown for the year 1909. The following table gives the important items of cost in the form of percentages of the net selling price: Table 2b.— Analysis of costs of typical suits for different grades of clothing. [Details of cost expressed as percentages of net selling price.] Refers enoe No. Net whole- sale selling price. Total cloth, cost. Trimmings, cost. Total material, cost. Direct labor cost.* Manufac- turing e.xpense.' Cost of manufac- . tured suit. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 100.00 100.00 100. 00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100. (X) 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100. 00 100.00 41.72 26.25 23.48 21.30 24.09 24.64 17.26 13.72 2L82 iai4 20.67 15.03 18.03 24.98 13.10 19.05 14.79 4.90 15.63 10.61 16.96 17.67 8.75 16.25 17.63 14.77 22.21 8.89 11.28 17.71 15.35 19.56 15.62 10.77 46.62 41.78 34.09 38.26 41.76 33.39 33.51 3L35 36.59 40.36 29.57 26. 31 35.74 40.33 32.65 34.67 25.56 24.94 28.36 38.51 29.35 31.32 38.8.5 42.07 37.85 28.47 30.00 38.93 36.40 34.05 31.66 35.06 34.60 32.65 7.11 8.09 5.18 5.43 8.62 5.26 2.77 2.49 5.25 6.57 12.89 11. 46 2.26 8.71 11.37 10.89 10.29 78.67 78.22 77.78 73.04 81.70 77.50 78.35 71.69 70.30 75.93 81.39 74.17 72.05 80.70 79.08 80.16 6a 50 > This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops; otherwise it stands for the direct labor in the cuttmg room plus the amount paid to contractors for makmg up the garments. » At the rates shown lor the year 1909. OtJO RBPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUIjB K. A brief summary of the above detaila may be bad in the following table : Table 2&a.~-Analy»ls of costs of typical mils for dij^erent grades of clothing— Average mUing prtce and cost^—SumTtiary. Rang© of net whole- sale selling price. Net wholesale selling price. Esti- mated retail price. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings cost. Total material cost. Direct kbor cost.i • Manu- facturing expense.* Cost of manufao tured suit. trnder $20 - 130 to 129.99 Over $30 $15.98 25. 35 39.31 $27.00 45.00 68.00 $4.07 4.77 6.19 $2.09 3.93 5.82 $6. 16 n.m 12.01 $5.21 8.81 13.35 $1.04 1.67 4.24 $12.41 19. IT 29.60 I This entry represents direct labor where the manutacturer ha.s his own shops, otherwise it stands for direct labor in the cutting room pins the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. * At the rates shown for tlie year 1909. Table 2&.—Anahjsis of costs of tijpiml suits for dij^erent grades of clothing— Sum- Tnary — Average selling price and costs. [Details of cost expressed as percentages of net selling price.) Kanjf of net wholesale selling price. Net wholesale selling price. Total cloth cost. Trim- mingii cost. Total materia] oost. Direct labor cost.» Manu- facturing axpeiaae.i Cost of manufiiO" tured suit. ITpder $20 - 100.00 100.00 100.00 24.57 18.82 15.75 13.08 15.4fi 14.81 38.65 32.60 6.51 6.50 10.79 77. 6« $20 to $29.90 Over 830 M.28 30.l»5 34.75 33.96 75.62 75.30 J This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops, otherwise It stands for direc;t lalxjr in the cutting room phis the amount paid to contractors tor maJdng up the garments. « At the rates shown for the year 1909. The foregoinp: table indicates the importance of the total cloth cost in garments. •Below are shown the price of the clotlis used. An examination of these tables indicates a considerable variation in yardage, due largely to style. It indicates further that the same priced clotlis, or clotlis bought at approximately the same price, entei mto garments differing very considerably in price. On the other hand it is clear that in general the price of the cloth rises ^ith the price of the garment. However, the increase in cloth cost is not proportional to the increased price, the chief difference in cost between different priced garments being in trimmings and even more in the making. Table 27.— Eehtion of eloik cost to total cost ofttwnen's clothing, details for all sped- men garmmts^, cost of cloth per yard, yardage, net seUiTig prwe of garment, and details of cost, arranged accordtng to doth cost per yard. SKIRTS. Bef-i Cloth er- cost per ence yard,, No. I IMt. 1... 2... 3. . . 4... fi... 6... 7... Yards per gar- ment. $0,515 ZOO $1.03 .575 2.50 1.44 .715 2.00 1.43 .75 2. 375 1.78 .76 2.50 1.88 .75 2.75 2.06 1.15 2.50 2.88 Total doth cost. Trim- mings cost. $0.15 ■.17 ,2S .20 .25 .15 .50 Total material cost. Direct labor cost.i Manu- facturing I expense.* Cost of manu- factured gamMnt. Wholesale selling. OfOfis. $1.18 L61 1.68 1.98 2.13 2 21 3.38 $0.65 LOO LOO 1.11 1.16 LI2 L70 $ai8 .27 .27 28 .31 • 29 .46 $2.01 2.94 2.96 3.37 3.69 3.62 6.54 $2162 3.50 4.00 4.50 6-00 6.00 7.00 Net. $2.53 3.39 3.8ti 4.36 4.83 4.86 6.86 » This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his o;vn shop: otherwise it stands for the dirt«t lalwr in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garmeuto. > At the rates shown lor tlie year 1909. ifOl REPORT OF TABIFF BOABD OK SCHEDULB K. 899 Table 27. — Relation of cloth cost to total cost of women's clothing, details for all sped- men garments, cost of cloth per yard, yardage, net selling price of garment, and details of cost, arranged according to cloth cost per yarrf^Continued. coats. Ref. er- Cloth oost per yard, net. Yards per gar- ment. Total cloth cost. Trim- mings oost. Total material cost. Direct labor cost. Manu- facturing expenses. Cost of manu- factured garment. Wholesale se Ifing. ence Ho. Gross. Net. 1.... 2.... 4.... 14... 3...; 12... 5.... 8.... 11... 7.-.. 6.... 9.... 20... 10... 16... 17... 18... 15... 19... 13... $0.65 .74 .75 .80 .88 .90 .90 .95 1.075 LIO L12 1.12 L36 L3725 L50 1.50 L55 L75 2.24 2.25 3.25 3.25 4.50 4.50 3.25 3.75 4.25 4.00 4.25 3.625 3.25 3.50 3.75 3.50 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.25 3.50 4.25 $2.11 2.41 3.38 3.60 2.86 3.38 3.83 3.80 4.57 3.99 3.64 3.92 5.10 480 6.00 6.00 6.20 7.44 7.84 9.66 $L00 L70 .95 3.33 2.31 4.37 .85 2.70 3.00 2.22 3.04 2.70 6.48 .67 3.G5 7.30 7.13 3.70 5.42 2L80 $3.11 4.11 4.33 6.93 6.17 7.75 4.68 6.50 7.57 6.21 7.28 6.62 1L58 6.47 9.65 13.30 13.33 n.l4 13.26 12.36 $L?9 L94 3.25 8.84 2.14 4.83 3.50 4.00 4.50 3.51 2.69 2.79 15.58 4.42 6.08 7.00 8.58 5.37 10.07 3.50 $0.13 .14 = 41 3.11 .16 .89 .44 .50 .56 1.00 .20 .21 5.48 .82 1.68 .88 ao2 .67 3.54 .44 $5.03 6.19 7.99 18.88 7.47 13. 47 8.62 11.00 12.63 10.72 10.17 9.62 32.64 10.71 17.41 21.18 24.93 17.18 26.87 16.30 $5.50 7.00 10.75 22.50 8.00 18.50 12.00 15.00 17.50 13.75 12.50 14.50 42.50 16.50 23.50 30.00 35.00 23.50 35.00 2a 00 $5.30 6.74 9.97 21.09 7.70 17.02 1L13 13.92 16.24 13.48 12.04 13.96 39.84 15.18 21.96 27.84 32.81 21.81 32.81 18. .56 SUITS. 8... 7... 4... 3... 12.. 16.. 5... 10... 6.... 1..-. 2.... 11... 13... 9.... 14... 17... IG... $a86 .85 .92 .93 .98 .98 1.00 L02 L06 LIO LIO LIO 1.15 L15 1.40 l.Gl 1.C2 3.75 4.25 4.25 400 425 433 4 50 4 50 4 50 3.25 3. 025 4 75 4375 4 625 5.00 4 25 4. ( ■25 $3.19 3.61 3.92 3.72 417 424 4 50 4 59 4 73 a58 3.99 5.23 5.03 5.32 7.00 6.84 7.^9 $410 3.40 3.12 L68 3.13 6.33 3.30 5.62 L68 • TUB 2.36 2.25 494 3.60 430 498 6.14 $7.29 7.01 7.04 6.40 7.30 10. 57 7.80 10.21 6.41 400 6.35 7.48 9.97 8.92 1L30 1L82 13.63 $8.80 &80 5.40 6.10 10.10 1L35 6.85 7.59 7.46 2.14 4 31 9.85 9.50 6.94 8.87 15.10 13.00 $0.58 .68 LOO .82 3.18 3.68 L61 L41 LOl .61 L23 3. 26 .63 L28 2.44 4 76 4 28 $16.67 16.39 13.44 12.32 20.58 25.60 15.26 19.21 14 88 6.75 1L89 20.59 20.10 17.14 22.61 31. CS 31.51 $25.00 22.60 20.00 16.50 30.00 35.00 20.00 27.50 20.00 8.78 15.50 27.50 30.00 26.50 30.00 59.00 42.50 $23.25 20.92 18.40 15. S4 27.75 32.37 18. es 25.30 19.20 8.58 15.20 25.30 27.90 24.38 28.03 46.25 39.31 From the data presented above it is clear that in the manufacture of women's woolen garments cloth is the most important material used. It is also clear that the cost of cloth is relatively a larger item in the tot^l cost of the garment in cheaper priced suits'^and coats than in the more expensive wearing apparel. Attention is called to the high per cent which the cost of labor and the other factory expense form as compared with the net seUing price This apphes more particularly to the more expensive coats and suits, where the conversion cost exceeds the entire cost of all materials used. The information as taken from the books of the manufacturer for the year 1909 can not be compared in detail with the data for specimen garments just presented. The latter were secured in the fall of 191 1 or two years later, and, moreover, apphed to a single season. Further- more, the information is for woolen garments exclusively. The figures for 1 909 cover an entire year. Changes in the style must be reckoned with, and also the fact that the 1909 figures are for all garments manufactured, woolen and other. The 1909 figures are valuable as depicting conditions of the industry in a year which is regarded in the trade as representative of normal conditions. 900 EEPOKT OF TAEIFF BOABD OJf SCHSDULE K. The information furnished by the manufacturer for the year 1909 Jias been summarized so as to show matsrial cost, direct labor, factory expense, selOng expense, and general expense. The table is designed to show separately the information for skirt houses and for houses engaged in the manufacture of cloaks and suits. For cloak and suit establishments a division is made of high-grade estabhslmients pro- ducing garments averaging in selhng price $20 and over and estab- lishments making cheaper garments. Below are given the data for the year 1909: Table 28. — Cost of manufacturing clothing — Women* s clothing^ 1909. Items. Net selling price. Material cost Direct labor I Factory expense . Total manixfacturing cost Cose of garments sol! Selling expense.. Oenerai e.^pense. Total selling and general expense. Total cost Profita Skirts. 11.983,738 1,074,710 452,689 143,801 590,490 1.602,989 115.099 67,463 182, 562 1.845,551 138, 187 Coats and suits. Cheap and meaium (under $20). 12,780,519 1,693,746 584,224 79,834 664,058 2. 349, 740 81,992 67,793 149,785 High grade (120 and over). $7,209,589 3,593,058 Grand total. $11,973,846 6,361,514 2,179,363 5.792,008 131,446 417,038 £48,484 2,499.525 280,994 6,341,092 868,497 3,439,911 9,805,337 328,537 552,294 880,831 10, 086, 168 1,287,678 » This entry represents direct labor where tlie manufacturer has his own shops, otherwise it stands for direct latjor iri the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garment. "Not shown separately for all establishments. The information in the table above is reduced to comparable terms by expressing the items of cost as percentages of the net selling price. Table 29. — Cost of inanufaciuring clothing — Women's clothing, 1909. [Items of cost expressed as percentages of net sellinir price.] Skirts. Coats and suits. Items. Cheap and meaium (under $20). High grade (i20 and over). Grand total. Net selling uric©. 100.00 53.91 100.00 60.70 100.00 50.02 100.00 Material cost 53.14 Direct labor' 22.71 1.20 20.94 2.86 S Factory ex Dense Total manufacturing cost 29.93 • 23.80 30.32 28.73 Cost of iFarments sold 83.83 84.50 80.34 81.88 Sellint! expense 5.80 3.40 2.95 2.43 1.82 5.78 2.74 (jeneral exoen^e. 4.61 Total sellinc and eeneral exnense 9.20 5.38 7.00 7.35 Total cost 93.03 89.89 87.95 89.23 Profits 6.97 10.10 12-05 10.76 1 This entry represents direct labor where the manufacturer has his own shops, otherwise ft stands for direct labor in the cutting room plus the amount paid to contractors for making up the garments. * Not shown separately for all establishments. . .. i Kent Hall BEPOBT OF TABIPF BOAfiD ON SCHEDULE K^olumbia Wlversity New York In the following table the factory cost of women's garments (the expenditures for the material and factory expense) is taken as 100 per cent and the constituent items of cost shown as percentages of tl base: Table 30. — Cost of mjanufaxiwrmg women* s clothing , 1909 — Factory costs. [Items of cost expressed as percentages of total factory cost.] Slrirts, tOtAl. Ck>ats and suits. - Items. Cheap and meaium (under $20). High grade ($20 and over). Grand total. Total cost, manufactured earments $100.00 64.30 $100.00 71.83 $100.00 62.24 — $100.00 Material cost 64.90 Direct labor 27.08 8.60 24.77 3.38 Factory expense Total manufacturing cost 35.69 28.16 37.75 35.10 SKIKTS. For skirt houses there is information showing the importance of woolen cloth in the total product. Houses for which there is data ayailable report a cloth cost equivalent to between 44 and 48 per cent of the selling price. The trimming cost, as reported by them, varies from approximately 10 per cent to less than 5 per cent. The labor and factoiy cost amounts to 30 per cent of the selling price. CLOAKS AND SUITS. Here few houses have records showing the importance of woolen cloth in their annual output. One very large concern, which keeps careful records, reports the cost of cloth to be approximately 20 per cent. Other material used by this firm amounts to 25 per cent, or 5 per cent more than the cloth. This is a concern engaged in the pro- duction of garments selling at wholesale for more than $25 on the average. One house extensively engaged in the production of coats, selling on the average between $5 and $6, reports that normally about seven- eighths of the total material costs is expended for cloth. This is an estimate, the concern keeping no records that segregate the cloth from the trimmings. Another house, manufacturing misses' and ladies' coats and suits, reports that cloth absorbs 58 per cent of the net selling price as against 8 per cent for trimmings. A third house gives the cloth cost as 36 per cent and the cost of trimmings as 9 per cent. The total material cost varies from 45 per cent to 63 per cent. The average is 60 per cent for houses making the more popuhir-priced suits and coats and 50 per cent for more expensive garments. The high percentages are reported by houses whose output sells at popular prices. The factory cost on suits and coats as reported by the establish- ments investigated varies widely. In the popular-pnced garments a factory cost equal to 22 per cent of the net selling price is reported. In higher-priced garments the factory cost rises to 30 per cent. 32080'— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 19 902 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Where a careful analysis of the figures are available the overhead expense m the factory for sample making, designing, and supervision is very high, absorbing in some estabh^ents as^ch as 10 per cent of the net selling price. In the cloak and suit busmess the large houses report the cost of the garments as they leave the factory to be between about 80 and 85 per cent. This means a lower margin for seUing, general expenses, and profits than that found in men's clothing. One mteresting phase of the industry, however, is the comparativeljf low-selling expense in the suit and coat business. The large houses in the business report a selling expense of less than 3^ per cent at the maximum. This is because sales are made lamely at the office of the firm rather than through salesmen. As selling expense absorbs a very much lower proportion of the net amount received from sales, the larger houses show a higher rate of profit than that reported as a whme for the men's clothing industry. It is necessary to emphasize the fact that these conclusions are based lai^ely on data received from houses manufacturing higher grade women's garments. The more limited data secured for skirt ouses indicate a different situation and selling expenses are there considerably liigher. In comparison with the data obtained formen's clothing theinf orma- tion secured in regard to women's clo tiling is limited. The latter inves- tigation took place at a time when the industry was at the height of its season, and it was therefore difficult to secure data on large and detailed scale. Moreover, there was not the same cooperation on the part of the manufacturers which was met with m men's dothmg. The conclusions from the figures obtained are given, therefore, not as necessarily final, but as showing the trend and a very good indication of the situation of the mdustiy as a whole. COMPLETE COST OF TYPICAL WOMEN's G4RMENTS. There is now jpresented certain typical women's clothing; followed through the dinerent processes both of clothing manufacture and the manufacture of the cloth of which the garments are made. It is not deemed necessary to go into detafl of the making of yam, as this would be exactly similar to the two cases given under the head of men's clothing, where the processes were extended to yam manu- facture. This fine includes women's two-piece suits of two different grades, one misses' suit, three standard cloaks and two typical skirts. In each case the lowest retail price has been taken as about 50 per cent of the wholesale price, which is conservative for this trade. The different garments are as follows : (m) Women's two-piece Buit: Regular wnolesale price $16. 50 Net wholesale price (average realized) 15. 84 Retail price 25. 00 (n) Women's two-piece suit: Regular wholesale price 20. 00 Net wholesale price (average realized) 18. 68 Retail price 30. 00 (o) Misses' suit: Regular wholesale price 15. 50 Net wholesale price (average realized) 15. 20 Retail price 24. 00 REPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 903 (p) Cloak: R^ular wholesale price $7. 00 Net wholesale price (average realized) 6. 74 Retail price 10.50 (r) Cloak: Regular wholesale price 18. 50 Net wholesale price (average realized) 17.02 Retail price 28.00 («) Cloak: Regular wholesale price 30. 00 Net wholesale price (average realized) 27. 84 Retail price 45. 00 (0 Skirt: Regular wholesale price 2. 70 Net wholesale price (average realized) 2. 53 Retail price 4. 00 (v) Skirt: Regular wholesale price 5. 00 Net wholesale price (average realized) 4. 85 Retail price 7. 50 (m) Suit. [Regular wholesale price, $16.50; net price, amount realized after deducting average discount, $15.84; retail price, $25 and up; cloth, woolen.] SUIT MAKING. Stock cost: Cloth, woolen. Lining, cotton back satin. Number of yards of cloth used in suit, 4|. Cost of cloth per yard, $0,825; total $3. 69 Cost of trimmings 1.68 Total cost of stock |5. 37 Labor cost: Sponging .10 Cutting. .50 Operatmg 3. 50 Pressing 1. 00 Miscellaneous 1. 00 Total labor cost d. 10 Factory expense ^ .82 Total manufacturing expense 6. 92 Selling expense^ .49 General expense ^ .43 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 13.21 CLOTH MAKING. Cost per yard. Stock 10.487 Productive labor 161 Nonproductive labor 007 Department materials 009 General expense 107 Total manufacturing cost . 771 Credit waste . 004 Net manufacturing cost 767 Mill selling price 825 1 Distributed to each garment on basis of productive labor in each garment. s Distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total selling and general expense to total valae of output. 904 REPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUMJ K. (n) Suit. pieg:ular wholesale price, 120; net price, amonnt realized after deducting average discount, 118.68; retail price, $30 and up; cloth, worsted serge.] Stock cost: ®^" MAKING. Cloth, worsted serge. Lining, cotton baclc eatin. Number of yards of cloth need in suit, 4^ Cost of cloth per yard, $0.98; total $4. 41 Cost of linings 2. 50 Interlining and trimming .80 Total stock cost |7. 71 Labor cost: Sponging 10 Cutting .75 Making 5. 00 Total labor 5. 85 Factory expense * 1. 61 Total manufacturing expense 7. 46 Selling expense ^ 1. C8 General expense 2 37 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 17. 22 CliOxM JdAKINO. rVist TU'T vard Stock 10.680 Productive labor 100 Nonproductive lalwr 023 Department materials 040 General expense 084 Total manufacturing expense 927 Credit waste 005 Net manufacturing cost . 922 Mill selling price. , 980 (o) Misses* suit. [Regular wholesale price, tl5.50; net price, amount realized after deducting average dlsoount, $15.20; retail price, $24 and up; cloth, worsted serge.] Stock cost: 8^"" MAKING. Cloth, worsted serge. Lining, peau de cygne. Number of yards of cloth used in suit, 3|. * Cost of cloth per yard, $1.12: total $4.06 Cost of trimmings 1. 70 Interlining and trimming 66 Total stock cost $6.42 Labor cost: Sponging .08 Cutting .40 Making 3.83 Total labor cost 4. 31 Factory expense » L23 Total manufacturing expense 5. 54 General expense ^ .58 Selling expense « L47 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 14, 01 1 Distributed to each garment on basis of productive labor in each garment. > Distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total selling and general expenae to total value of output. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 905 CLOTH MAKING. Cost per yard. Stock $0,800 Dressing 008 Weaving 042 Burling and mending 019 Dyeing and finishing 095 General expense 071 Total manufacturing expense 1. 035 Credit waste 006 Net manufacturing cost 1. 029 Mill selling price - - - 1-12 (p) Cloak. [R^ular wholesale price, 17; net price, amount realized after deducting average discount, $6.74; retail price, <10.50 and up; cloth, all-wool broadcloth.} Stock cost: Cloth, all-wool broadcloth. Lining, cotton-back satin. Number of yards of cloth used in cloak, 3J. Cost of cloth per yard, $0.70; total $2.28 Cost of trimmings 1. 17 Interlining and trimming .53 Total stock cost $3. 98 Labor cost: Sponging 04 Cutting .10 Making L80 Total labor cost L 94 Factory expense ^ .14 Total manufacturing expense 2. 08 Selling expense ^ .01 General expense 2 13 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 6. 20 CLOTH MAKING. Cost per yard. Stock $0,492 Productive labor 065 Nonproductive labor 008 Department materials 018 General expense 047 Total manufacturing expense 630 Credit waste 003 Net manufacturing expense 627 Mill selling price 70 1 Distributed to each garment on basis of productive labor in each garment. 1 Distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total selling and general expense to total value of output. 906 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. (r) Cloak. [Regular wholesale price, 118.50; net price, amount realized after deducting average discount, 117.09: retail price, 128 and up; clotli, woolen coating.] Stock cost: Cloth, woolen coating. Lining, saHn. Number of yards of cloth used in cloak, 3f . Cost of cloth, per yard $0.91, total |3. 40 Cost of lining 3. 57 Interlining and trimming ....... .80 Total stock cost. |7. 77 Labor cost: Sponging O75 Cutting 500 Making 4.250 Total labor cost , 4. 825 Factory expense ^ [*!'"! ] 890 Total manufacturing expense 5. 72 Selling expense ^ "..'.*. .19 General expense^ l,..,,,,,/,,,,', '97 Final cost (factory coet plus selling and general expense) 14. 65 CLOTH MAKING. C!ost per yard. Stock. .. 10.650 Productive labor 079 Nonproductive labor '..-.'..*!.'."*.*!.*!*!! I .*!!" ! '. 017 Department materials ......'..'....'......'... '. 019 General expense ! . ! . ! 11] ^ ! ] 1 [ I ] '. 075 Net manufacturing coat 840 Sellingprice .......'.'.I'.'.'.'.'.'. ^910 («) Plain tailored cloaJc. piegular wbolesale price, 130; net price, amount realised after deducting average discount, $27.84; retail price, $45; cloth, clear finished worstedj Stock cost: Cloth, clear finish worsted. Number of yards of cloth used in cloak, 4. Costof cloth, per yard $1,375, total $5.50 Cost of lining 2. 70 Interlining and trimming .['.'..'..'... 4. 60 Total stock cost $12.80 Labor coet: Cutting 50 Makmg g. 50 Total labor cost 7. 00 Factory expense * : .88 Total manufacturing expense 7. 88 Selling expense ^ " * 81 General expense' 1 !! 1 ............ ] .72 Final coet (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 22. 21 I Distributed to each garment on basis of productive labor In each garment. « l£^f ^****^®*^ ^ ®^^ garment on basis of ratio csf total selling and general expense to total value of i I / REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 907 CLOTH MAKING. Cost i)er yard. Stock $0.92 Expense through weaving 17 Burling and mending 02 Finishing Od General expense 08 Net manufacturing cost 1. 22 Mill selling price 1.375 (0 Shirt. [Regular wholesale price, $2.70; net price, amount realized after deducting average discount, $2.53; retail price, $4 and up; cloth, all-worsted serge.] Stock cost: Cloth, all-worsted serge. Number of yards of cloth used in skirt, 2. Cost of cloth per yard, $0.55, total $1. 10 Cost of trimming 15. Total coet of stock $1. 25 Labor cost: Sponging and pressing 15 Cutting 10 Making .40 Total labor cost 65 Factory expense * 18 Total manufacturing expense .83 Selling expense ^ .12 General expense ^ .07 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 2. 27 CLOTH MAKING. Cost i)er yard. Stock $0. 3740 Productive labor 0405 Nonproductive labor : 0021 Department materials 0185 General expense 0309 Total manufacturing cost 4660 Credit waste 002 Net manufacturing cost 464 Mill selling price 55 (v) Skirt. (Regular wholesale price, $5; net price, amount realized after deducting average discount, $4.85; retail price, $7.50 and up; cloth, all-wool serge.] Stock cost: Cloth, all-wool serge. Number of yards 01 cloth used in skirt, 2f . Cost of cloth per yard, |0.74, total $2. 03 Cost of trimming 15 Total stock cost $2. 18 Labor cost: Sponging 055 Cutting no Making 950 Total L115 Factory expense * 290 Total manufacturing expense 1. 405 Selling expense ^ 380 General expense ^ 250 Final cost (factory cost plus selling and general expense) 4. 215 ' Distributed to each garment on basis of productive labor in each garment. * Distributed to each garment on basis of ratio of total seUing and general expense to total value of output. 908 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. CLOTH MAKIKO. Cost per yard. Stock. «A AK9 Productive labor ..,.....'........... 081 Nonproductive labor 02 Department materials 035 General expense \..lll["[[.[][[[[]l][ 065 Total manufacturing coet ij54 Credit waate 003 Net manufacturing coet gci Hill selling pric« ll[.[..y.,'.',l[[l[ [74 ( ' PART IV -SECTION 2. REPORT ON READY-MADE CLOTHING AND WEARING APPAREL. 909 \ FAHCY KNIT GOODS. The investigation into the cost of manufacturing fancy knit goods was representative both in the products studied and in its extent Some 40 estabhshments were investigated, and these were scattered among 10 different States, including both eastern and western districts of the United States. ^ , , . ^ _ , The type of estabhshments visited embraced manufacturers who sell direct to the retailer, those who sell both to retailer and jobber, and those who sell to the jobber only. These establishments employ 7,279 operatives with a total amount paid out in wages during the year of $2,219,841.67 and witu net sales amounting to $9,287,238. , . , . ^ x* j Knitting forms one of the great divisions of fabric structure and differs rascally in the principle of producing fabnc from that of weaving, its basis being the formation of a fabric or web by means of a series of interlocking loops, from one or more continuous threads. Different systems of interlocking the loops produce different styles of stitching, each being best suited for certain kinds of fabric. The machines used in this manufacture are of two general types, the circular machine and the flat-bed machine. The latter, used extensively in tins industry, is an imported machine. ^ . . , - As different machines are used for making the different kinds ot knit fabrics, their separation into hard and fast divisions is not feasible, as the same machine can be used for making different fabrics by modifications of its operation or by usmg special attachments or In the presentation of the information secured these goods are divided into two general groups. ^ i j- » The fu-st includes garments such as sweaters, sweater coats, ladies sweater vests, skirts, and bathing suits. * i The second includes hats, caps, hoods, shawls, toques, scarfs, gloves, mittens, hosiery, and socks. SWEATER GOODS. Sweater coats and sweaters are constructed both from the flat web and from the tubular fabric. The garments are shaped either by cutting the parts to form or by fashioning them on the machine. When the garments are cut to form they are shrunk to the natural Imes of the body by means of a wooden form. This class of goods is marketed in one of three ways by the manufac- turer—by selling only to the jobber, to the jobber and retailer, or to the retailer exclusively. , ,. .„ , , ^ ^ Usually, where this last method is followed, the manufacturer pro- duces what is known to the trade as "handmade and hand-hnished garments " This class of goods is considered of superior quality, both as to materials and workmanship. This latter is for the reason that they are made on hand machines and the entire finishing proc- esses, including the sewing, are also handwork. i 912 BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOARD OH SCHEDULE K, HOSIERY. Stockings and socks are manufactured on machines of the circular latch needle type, and, also, on straight rotary machines. The former, however, are the ones generally used m the United States. 1 he machines used may be either full or partially automatic. In the manufacture of women's stockings the full automatic machine naay run continuously from stocking to stocking without assistance from the operator, while in the manufacture of half hose the machines must be stopped at the end of each article, although the machines are full automatic. Seamless hosiery was originally made on hand machines, and in shaping the heel and toe the operator was compelled to change the needles for each formation. This method has largely been done ^^•^iw^\?® * ^®^"^* ^^ ^^^ devices and attachments. ^ * ull-f ashioned hosiery may be either seamed or seamless, accord- ingly as it IS made on a circular or a flat-bed knitting machine. In the former variety the sock or stocking is knit with plain or tuck stitch as usual until the ankle part is reached, and from thence the web is nar- rowed to conform to the shape of the leg, either by dropping a certain number of stitches or bv knitting the stitches narrower and closer together. Stnctly speaking, such hosiery can not be called full- fashioned, but the term is appHed rather loosely to it by the trade, beamed, full-fashioned hosiery, the genuine kind, is made on the flat- bed straight kmttmg machine. GLOVES. Gloves, hke many other knitted garments, are made either on a circular or a Lamb machine. The better q uality of gloves are usually made on the latter, the production of which is about 2 dozen pair a day, while the lower grades are made on the circular machine with an average capacity of 6 dozen pair for the same period. SELLING EXPENSE. As it has become the custom of the manufacturer of fancy knit goods to supply the market direct, there is necessarily added to the majiiifactunng cost an important clement of selling expense. Ihe establishments visited show this expense to be as follows: Cost of selling and distnbutixm. (a) Commissions and salaries for salesmen $357 904 75 (h) Traveling expenses of salesmen .'.***.*.'.*.**.'* 44' 548* 01 (c) Rent and mamtenance of outside selling office 28 293 6^ w^^y^niBing. ;:::::::;:::; sy'mio u) Mam tenance of sample tnmks 1 700 oo m Freight and cartage (outgoing).... V^/S/SSSSSSS^^S^^SS. 33;553!92 (<7) Interest charges 11^061.09 Total cost of selling and distribution in lactones investigated. . . . 615 445 50 Total amoun t of sales 9 287 238* 00 Selling and cost of distribution is 6.6 per cent of total sales. In addition to the above selling expense there is the cost of boxes, labels, bands, and packing. This is not included in the above state- EEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 913 ment, for the reason that this expense is controlled almost exclusively by the purchaser and is subject to his whim or fancy. Formerly this class of goods was marketed through commission houses, the line of samples being of a very narrow range compared with the manufacturer's present attempt to produce original designs and models. The products of the earlier period were inferior to those of to-day, both in stvle and finish. The above condition or affairs has greatly enhanced the risk that a particular line, style, or finish will remain in vogue no longer than a season. Taste in knitted garments changes so rapidly that the ingenuity of the designer is heavily taxed, and therefore in no sense can this class of goods be considered as standardized. In presenting the data secured, the following methods have been adopted: (a) Individual discussion of typical garments and (6) tables with a general discussion of a range of garments. men's sweater coat. MerCs sweater coat No. 501, — To manufacture a dozen of these garments requires 15 pounds of 2/16's colored worsted yarn, valued at $14.40; and trimmings, consisting of buttons, lining, thread, and braid, to the value of $1.70. For the waste made in the manufacture of these garments 12 cents was received by the mill, which brings the net value of stock and trimmings to $16.05. In the conversion of this stock the cost of winding amounts to $0,211; knitting, $2,967; cutting, 5 cents; sewing, $0,928; and finish- ing 22 cents; or a total cost for labor of $4,376. The department materials and general expense amount to $1,469. The net cost to the mill of a dozen garments is $21,895. An additional charge of 65 cents is made for boxes, labels, bands, and packing, but as this is part of the selhng rather than the manu- facturing expense, the same has been omitted. A single garment finished wiU weigh 19 ounces and is made to sell at $3.75 per garment. The mill in which this garment is made receives $30 per dozen garments, less 12 per cent, or $26.40. This mill sells direct to the retailer. Net stock and trimmings $16. 05 Conversion: Labor $4,376 Department materials and general expense 1. 469 Total manufacturing cost 5. 845 Net total mill cost 21.895 Net stock is 73.30 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 19.99 per cent of net total mill cost- Labor is 74.87 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men^s sweater coat No, 502. — The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 9 pounds of 2/18's white worsted yarn plus 9 pounds of 2/23^s worsted yam, making a total value of $14.40. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing $1.65. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 50 cents; knitting, $1.75; cutting, 43 cents; sewing, 74 cents; mending, 24 cents; miishing, 19 cents; total labor cost of $3.83. Overhead charges, including department materials, $1.46. 914 BBPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 65 cents, which has been considered in the sellinS expense. ® The finished garment weiglis 21 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $3.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $24 per dozen garments, less 6 per cent, or $22.56, and the jobber $30 per dozen. ^ Net stock and trimmings I^g qk Conversion : Labor *» «« Department materials and general expense. .. ..[.., . . * * ] ' .* " ." * ' [ [ [ i[ 43 Total manufacturing cost g 99 Net total mill cost 21~34 Net stock, 75.21 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 17.95 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 72.40 per c^nt of total manufacturing coat. Men's pMn sweater coat No, SOS^—The stock entering mto the manufacture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 1 4 pounds of colored worsted and cotton yarn, the proportion of the former to the latter bemg as 61 is to 39. This stock is valued at $4.98, and the trimmmgs, consisting of buttons and thread, at 24 cents, bringing the net value of stock and trimmings to $5.22. In the conversion of this stock, the winding costs 14 cents- knit- ting 15 cents; cutting, 5 cents; sewing, $1.63; mending, 25 'cents: and finishmg, 10 cents; or a total cost for labor of $1.32? Department materials and overhead charges amount to $1.13. The net cost to the mOl for a dozen of these garments is $7 86 ^or boxes, labels, bands, and packing, a chaise of 7 cents is made, but as this IS a seUing rather than a manufacturing expense, the same has been omitted. ^^ f ; ^"« A single finished garment wiU weigh 18 ounces and is made to sell for $1 per garment. The manufacturer receives $7.50 per dozen less 4 per cent, or $7.20, while the jobber receives $9 per dozen garments. ^ Net stock and trimmings $5 22 Conversion: Labor J., „2 Department materials and general expense '.'.'.'.'.""'. I.Z2 Total manufacturing cost 2 64 Net total mill cost TTI Net stock is 66.41 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 16.79 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 50 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Menjs sweater coat No, SO4.— The stock entering into the manufac- ture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 15 pounds of 4/18'8 cobred worsted and 6 pounds of 2/20's woolen yarns, valued at 114.85, and the tnmmmgs, consisting of lining, buttons, and thread, at 75 cents. The waste— 2J pounds—made in the conversion of this stock was sold bv the miU for 45 cents, which brings the net value of the stock and trimmings to $15.15. In converting this stock into the finished garment the winding of the yam cost 57 cents; the knitting, $1.65; cutting, .275 cents; sew- BEPOKT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 915 ing, $1,045; mending, 11 cents; and finishing, 78 cents; a total of $4.43. The department materials and overhead charges amount to $1.50. The net cost therefore of a dozen of these garments to the mill is An item of 75 cents, charged to the manufacturing expense for boxes, labels, bands, and packing, has been omitted, as this prop- erly belongs to the selling expense. , ^ n A single finished garment weighs 24^ ounces and was made to sell at $5 The manufacturer receives for a dozen of these garments $27.50, less 2 per cent, or $26.95, and the jobber receives $36 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmings $15.15 Conversion: ^a ^o Labor ^-^ Department materials and general expense ^-"^ Total manufacturing cost - "'^^ Net total mill cost 2L08 Net stock is 71.87 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 21.02 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 74.70 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's neater coat No. 505.— The stock entering into the manufac- ture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 28 pounds of woolen and worsted yam, in the proportions of about 70 to 30, and is valued at $19.14, and the trimmings, consisting of buttons and thread, at 85 cents. The waste made in the manufacture of these garments amounted to 6 pounds, and was sold by the mill for 24 cents, making the net value of stock and trimmings $19.75. In converting this stock into the finished garment, the wmding of the yam costs 70 cents; knitting, $1; cutting, 15 cents; sewing (handwork), $3.03; and the mending and finishing, 20 cents; or a total labor cost of $5.08. The department materials and overhead charges amoimted to 77 cents. , „ - 1 1. ^i The net total cost to the mill, therefore, for a dozen of these gar- ments is $25.60. , . , I. X • J For boxes, labels, bands, and packing a charge of 52 cents is made, but this has been deducted from the manufacturing expense and has been taken into consideration in the seUing expense, as the same is not properly chargeable to the former. A single garment finished will weigh 26§ ounces, and is made to sell at from $5 to $6. The manufacturer receives per dozen garments $33 net and the jobber $48. Net stock and trimmings - ^^^- ^5 Conversion: Labor ^5. 08 Department materials and general expense 77 Total manufacturing cost ^-^^ Net total mill cost 25.60 Net stock is 77.15 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 19.84 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 86.84 per cent of total manufacturing cost. 916 BEFtST OF TABIFF BOABO ON SCHEDTJia K. Men's meaUr coat No. 606.— The stock entering into the manu- ■^^^^^1 a dozen of these garments is composed of 24i pounds of ^its; totd $27.57 ^''™' ** *^^-°^' ^""^ ««dit^aste of 48 SO^StT"^ **°^'^* *"* buttons, linings, thread, and hangers, costing J„ J^.^i 'o^ w!^ P^'^ ^°^^° gannents is as f oUows : Winding and spool- h^' AitL^^'^'- ® '^^^^' f ""''^'. 17 cents; sewing, $2.87; mend- mg^43 cents; fimshmg, 8 cents; total labor cost, $8.90. Overhead charges, mcluding department materials, $3.38. tn1^frri!,,tl*5'Tn°''*'**'^^-^u^''{: ^^'^' ^'''"^' ^^^h and packing to the amount of 50 cents, which has been considered in the selling Gxpcnsc r.Slf^fi^^TP™^''^'^?^^ 28} ounces, and is manufactured to fi npr oLf\. I^n f?*^",^?^*"/«r receives $54 per dozen garments less b per cent, or $50.76, selling to retail dealers only. Net stock and trimmings ♦oo qt Conversion: ♦^^* ^' Labor Department materials and geneml expense'.*.* ...."*!! I [.*."!!*.**'] ' 3] 38 Total manufacturing cost 12 2fi Net total mill coat o. ^^ Net stock, 64.56 per cent of net total mill cost Labor, 25.69 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 72.48 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's Mercoat No. o07. -The stock entering into the manufac- ture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 25 pounds of 1/2's R. colored Oxford worsted yam, less 25 cents for waste, costing $19.75 Trmmungs consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing 51 cents* Urerhead charges, including department materials, $5.71 Ihere is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 72 cents, wlSch is included in 'the selling ^p^l _/T r^in ^^™^°* ^^Jlghs 30 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $10 per garment. The manufacturer receives $52 per dozen garments less 7 per cent or $48.36. The above garments are sold to retail dealers only, and are handmade and hand finished. Net stock and trimmings -^^ „- Conversion: *^- ^^ l^abor SIO If? Department materials and general expense *.".".'.*,".* * .' .* .' * ." 6.' 71 Total manufacturing cost , 7! 15 87 Net total mill cost „_ .„ So. Lo Net stock, 56.07 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 28.12 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 64.02 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's sweater coat No, S08,~The stock entering into the manu- lacture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 9 pounds of 2/18'a and 9 pounds of 2/23's white woolen yarn, valued at $14.40. Irimmings consist of buttons, hnings, and thread, costing $1.65 BEPORT OF TAKIPF BOARD ON SCHEDUI/E K. 917 The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 48 cents; knitting, $1.75; cutting, 43 cents; sewing, 74 cents; mending, 24 cents; finishing, 19 cents; making a total of $3.80. Overhead charges, including department materials, $1.46. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 65 cents, which has been considered in the selling The finished garment weighs 21 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $3.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $24 per dozen garments, less 6 per cent, or $22.56, and the jobber $30 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings ^l^. 05 Conversion: Labor i ?? Department materials and general expense 1- 46 Total manufacturing cost 5. 29 Net total mill cost 21. 34 Net stock, 75,21 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 17.95 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 72.40 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's sweater coat No. 509.— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 12 pounds of 2/13's colored worsted yam plus 10 pounds of 1/3's cotton. The worsted yam is valued at $5.76 and the cotton at $2.40, making a total of $8.16. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing 75 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 22 cents; knitting, 30 cents; cutting, 10 cents; sewing, 98 cents; mending, 30 cents; finishing, 10 cents; making a total of $2. Overhead charges, including department materials, $2.20. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 7 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 28 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $2.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $18 per dozen garments less 4 per cent, or $17.28, and the jobber $24 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings - - $8. 91 Conversion: • Labor $2. 00 Department materials and general expense 2. 20 Total manufactming cost 4. 20 Net total mill cost 13. 11 Net stock 67.96 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 15.26 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 47.62 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's sweater coat No. 510. — The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 22 pounds of 2/15's colored woolen yams, valued at $18 15, less 4 cents for waste; total value $18.11. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing 73 cents. 32080**— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 20 918 HEPOET OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUtB K. Ther« ^'^..^^If '• ^'''"f '^g department materials, 70 cents. The finished gann'^nrw^h'^g Z'^t^^. t^"^^. ^IT.^' The manufacturer receives $30 per dozen net. ^ Net stock and trimmings... . Conversion: tl8.84 Labor Department materiab'tiid'i^ii^^'ei^^;;;;; " ••;••; ••••;; ■•• " *^- ^g Total manufacturing cost ' 5. 37 Net total null cost ?t '*T„''i^-*^ P*' ^•'"t of ■><"■ total mUI cost. T u 1??? P®' <=™' of net total mill cost, labor 86.95 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's sweater coat No. SI 1. —The stock enterine into thn ms^n,, s total of $16 45 ^ ' ^ ** *^^-^'^' '^'' ^ <=«°*« ^'^ ^»ste, T{?i^^ consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing 73 cents The labor cost, per dozen garments is as follows: W^Ssfirflnf,-" kmttmg, $2; cutting, 25 cents; mending, 25 cente^ Sinr.in' pressmg, $1.50, a total of $4.36 cents, unislung and Sere k*in^^1?;±j"1!"^ department materials, 70 cents. f^ TI an additional chareefor boxes, bands, labels and Dackin""' cost- i^bor, 59.29 per cent of total manufacturing coet. ,^en's cardigan jacket No. SIS— Tha atr^V ^^t^ • -^ ,, u acture of a dozen of these garmentekc^mnlW ,'^1° *'^« °"^: 2/18's colored woolen yarn valued «f«n^?j.u^* Rounds of consisting of linings, buSs, thread and hanl^°l ^1 trimmings, the wa^temadein the manufactu^of the^tS^if t^ "^S^"- • **'" V'?k'' "'^'^g.the net value of stock mitA^n^slf^L'^^'^'^ 111 the conversion of thi^ ^fnnlr inf « /T J7^^.^;^^^¥^^gs $11 .68. ^es through whicrit' pLsrL^'?h*e ^eo^tfofs^^^^^ *^^r^- Spoohng, 88 cents; knitting, 12.58- cuttC 17 .»^ ™ ?^ ^°i'°'^^-' fs^i'^^'^.^^'^'t' '^'^ finrshiTg, 8 cen*tsT5- -^^'^°.''' ^^^°S' ^^'^^J ^0.»0. lo the Rhnvo r^i^ofc ©o on :_ i i 'i I these garments to $19 84 J^hi^C C^i^^^^^^^ cents is made, A Single garment when finished weie-hq 202 ON SCHEDULE K. 921 The finished garment weighs 15 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $3 per garment. Tlie manufacturer receives $18 per dozen garments, less 2 per cent, or $17.64, and the jobber $24 per dozen. Net Btock and trimmings $9. 52 Conversion: Labor. ............-..-.------- $o. 80 Department materials and general expense 9625 Total manufacturing cost ^- '^^^^ Net total mill cost l^- 2825 Net stock, 66.65 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 26.61 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 79.79 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Men's bathing suit No, SI 7. —The stock entering into a dozen of these garments is composed of 12 pounds of 2/24's colored worsted yarn, and is valued at $9 and the trimmings at 5 cents. In the manu- facture of these garments the mill receives 30 cents for the waste made, making the net value of stock and trimmings $8.75. To convert this stock into the finished garments the labor for wind- ing costs 33 cents; knitting, 55 cents; cutting, $0,285; sewing, $0,715; mending, 11 cents; and finishing, 22 cents; or a total labor cost per dozen garments of $2.20. In addition to the above, 88 cents is added for department materials and overhead charges, bringing the net total cost to the miU to $11.38. For boxes, labels, bands, and packing a charge of 75 cents is made. This has been deducted from the manufacturmg and placed in the selling expense. A single garment when finished weighs 14 ounces, and is made to sell at $3 per garment. The manufacturer receives per dozen gar- ments $16.50, less 2 per cent, or $16.17, and the jobber $21 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmmgs $8. 75 Conversion : Labor $2. 20 Department materials and general expense 88 Total manufacturing cost 3. 08 Net total mill cost IL 83 Net stock is 73.96 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 18.60 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 71.43 per cent of total manufacturing cost. ladies' sweater COAT. Ladies' sweater coat No. 518. — To manufacture a dozen of these gar- ments requires 14} pounds of 2/1 6's colored worsted yarn valued at $14.16, and trimmings, consisting of finings, buttons, and thread, valued at $1.01. The waste made in the manufacture of these gar- ments was sold by the mill for 28 cents, making the net value of stock and trimmings $i4.89. In the conversion of this stock the cost of winding yam amounts to $0,208; the knitting, $4,485; cutting, 15 cents; sewing, $1,021; and finishing, 15 cents, a total cost for labor of $6,014. The department materials and overhead charges amount to $1,492. m 922 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. 122.3%^^* ^""^^ **" *^® ™"' therefore, of a dozen of these garments is kJ^'^ ''^^r^^ ""fi^*^ cents for boxes, labels, bands, and packing haa a^^L*''"" ^ ^^^ ®^™® ^^^ properly chargeable to the selHng n Ja!!^!!!^"^ garment weighs^ie ounces and is made to sell at $4.50 per garment. This mill sells direct to the retailer and receives, per dozen garments, $36 less 12 per cent, or $31.68. ^ Net stock and trimmings . Conversion: * ^ Labor !« ou Department materials and general expense ...'.* .' .' .* .' ." ." .' .* ." .' ' J .* .* .* J .* J j 492 Total manulacturing cost ~ •, c/iis Net total mill cost „„ Net stock 18 66 49 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 26.85 per cent of net total mill cent. Labor is 80.12 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' ^eater coat (fHa-fashioiud) iVo.5;5.— In the manufacture of a dozen of these garments 18 pounds of 2/20'8, lO's quaUty. plain worsted yam valued at $19.80 is used. The trimmings, consisting of buttoM ^mSsTioT44"°' *" ''■'''• "'"^'^ *^« -* -•- '^ «*->^ -" , In converting the stock into the finished garment, the cost of wind- ing is 50 cents; kmtting,$6.08; sewing, $1,345; mending, 10 cents- and inspecting, 15 cents, or a total cost for labor of $8,175 The overhead charges and department materials amount to $3 129 1 He net cost of a dozen of these garments is $31 .638. !• or boxes, labels, bands and packing a charge of 16 cents is made but this Item ha^ been deducted for the reason that the same shoulci be included in the selhng expense. ^.t^^"^? ^^"^^^/^ fi^«^^^' r^l weigh 21 ounces, and is made to seU at $7. 1 he manufacturer of these garments sells direct to the retailer and receives per dozen $48, less 8 per cent, or $44.16. Net stock and trimmings •oa «^^ Conversion: *^- ^^^ Labor 18 i7rc Department materials and general expense .".".'.".*.".'*'' .''■.**.' 3.' 119 Total manufacturing cost " ,, 204 Net total mill cost „, Net stock is 64.30 per cent of net total mill cost. ' liabor IS 25.84 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 72.38 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No 520 —In the manufacture of a dozen of ThTvitr^/'fl.^-^* pounds of 2/25's colored woolen yarns is used! Ihe value of this yarn is $9.45. The trimmings, such as Uninss E Z^ff^T"^' and hangers, cost 68 cents. For the waste madefn the manufacture of these garments the miU receives 30 cents, which brings the net value of stock and trimmings to $10.13. ' In the convereion of this stock into the finished garments, the BTocesses through which it passes and the costs of same are ^' fol! lows: Wmdmg and spooling, 70 cents; knitting, $3.80; cutting 17 SLfia ^'-^^^ "''^^' ^^ ^^^' ^^ ^^^g' 8 cente,V; , EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 923 The department materials and overhead charges amount to $2.85. The net cost to the mill of a dozen of these garments, therefore, is $20.16. , J Boxes, labels, bands, and packing, costing 55 cents, are charged to these garments, but as this is a part of the selling expense the amount has been omitted. n ^ •o m The finished garment weighs 15 ounces, and is made to sell at $3.50 per garment. For a dozen of these garments the manufacturer receives $30 net. Net stock and trimmings $9. 83 Conversion: »c aq lj';xhoT fo. 48 Department materials and general expense ^-^ Total manufacturing cost ^^- ^^ Net total mill cost 20.16 Net stock is 48.76 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 32.14 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 62.73 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No. 521.— In the manufacture. of a dozen of the above garments 15 pounds of 2/20s plain woolen yarn is used. The value of this yarn is $10.50. The trimmings, consisting of linings, buttons, and thread, are valued at $0,495. For the waste made in the manufacture of these garments the mill receives 6 cents, which brings the net value of stock and trimmings to $10,935. In converting this stock into the finished garments the winding of yarn costs 36 cents; the knitting, 82 cents; cutting, 15 cents; sewing, 87 cents; and mending, 20 cents; a total of $2.40. The department materials and overhead charges amount to $0.52. The total, therefore, to the mill of a dozen of these garments is 51«j«ooo. A charge of 52 cents is made for boxing, labels, bands, and packmg. These, however, belong to the selling expense, and for that reason are omitted from the manufacturing cost. A single finished garment will weigh 14^ ounces and is made to sell at $2.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives per dozen gar- ments $16.50, less 12 per cent, or $14.52, while the jobber receives $22.50 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmings $10- 935 Conversion: Labor ^2. 40 Department materials and general expense 52 Total manufacturing cost 2. 92 Net total mill cost 13. 855 Net stock is 78.92 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 17.32 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 82.19 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies* sweater coat No. 522. — In the manufacture of a dozen of these garments lOJ pounds of 2/30s colored worsted yam and IJ poun4s of colored worsted, cotton, and silk yarn, valued at $10.69, is used. The trimmings, such as linings, buttons, and thread, amount to $1.32. The waste made in the manufacture of these garments is M 924 BEPOET OF TAETFF BOABD OK SCHEDULE K. 3i pounds, for which the mill receives 17i cents, making the net value of stock and trimmings $11,835. In converting tliis stock into the finished garment the winding costs 24 cents; the warping, 30 cents; knitting, $1.28; cutting and steaming, 38 cents; sewmg, 77 cents; mending, 17 cents; and finish- ing, 12 cents; a total of $3.26. The department materials and overhead charges amount to $2.62. The net cost of these garments to the mill amounts to $17,715. The charge of 85 cents for boxes, labels, bands, and packing has been omitted from the cost of these garments, the same oeing prop- erly chargeable to selling expense. The finished weight or a smgle garment is 11 ounces and it is made to sell at $5. For a dozen of these garments the manufacturer receives $25, less 10 per cent, or $22.50, while the jobber receives $33 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmings Ill- 835 Conversion: Labor |3. 26 Department materials and general expense 2. 62 Total manufacturing cost 5. 88 Net total mill cost 17.715 Net stock is 66.81 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 18.40 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 55.44 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies^ sweater coat No. 523. — The stock used in the manufacture of a dozen of these above garments is composed of 14 pounds of 2/18'8 colored worsted yam, valued at $14. The trimmings, such as linings, buttons, and thread, amount to $1.10. For the waste made in the manufacture of these garments the mill receives 30 cents, which brings the net value of stock and trimmiugs to $14.80. The conversion of this stock into tne finish d gannent costs for wind- ing of the yam 38 cents; knitting, $3.57; cutting, $0,275; sewing, $0,915; mending, 11 cents; and finishing, 51 cents; or a total labor cost of $5.76. The department materials and overhead charges amount to $1.56. The net cost to the mill, therefore, of a dozen of these garments is For boxes, labels, bands, and packing a charge of 75 cents is made, but as this belongs to the selling rather than to the manufacturing expense, the same has been omitted. A single garment finished weighs 16 ounces and is made to sell at from $3.50 to $4 per garment. The manufacturer receives for a dozen of these garments $25, less 2 per cent, or $24.50, while the jobber receives $30 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmings |14, 80 Conversion: Labor 15. 76 Department materials and general expense JL56 Total manufacturing cost 7. 32 Net total mill cost ' 22.12 Net stock is 66.91 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 26.04 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 78.69 per cent of total manufacturing coeL i BEPOET OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDTTLE K. 925 Ladies' sweater coat No. ^-^^.—The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 16^ pounds of 2/30 s colored worsted yarn valued at $13.20, and the trimmings consistmg of buttons and thread, at 47 cents. The waste made in the manufacture of these garments is sold for 27 cents, making the net value of the stock and trimmings $12.40. In converting this stock into the finished garments, the processes through which it passes and the costs of same are as follows: Winding of yarn, 63 cents; knitting, 86 cents; cutting, 40 cents; sewing 90 cents; and mendmg and finishing, 35 cents; a total cost of _ The department materials, such as paraffin, needles, etc., and the overhead charges amount to $2.94. The net cost of these garments, therefore, to the mill is $19.48. An additional charge of 60 cents is made for boxes, bands, labels, and packing, but this item should be included in the seUing expense and has therefore been omitted from the cost of these garments A single garment when finished weighs 18 ounces, and is made to retail at $4, the manufacturer receiving $24 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $22.72, and the jobber $33 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings •! o >< a Conversion: ^^^'^ Labor s*^ 1 4 Department materials and general expense . . . . ^ 1 . ! 1 ] 1 ] ! ! ] ] ] [ ] ] 1 ". 2. 94 Total manufacturing cost g no Net total mill cost ~~1Q~48 Net stock is 68. 79 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 16.12 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 51.64 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No. 625.~The stock entering into these gar- ments is composed of HJ pounds of 2/20's plain worsted yarn, and is valued at $1 1.37, while the trimmings, consisting of hnings, buttons and thread, cost 87 cents. In the manufacture of these garments the waste made is sold for 14 cents, making the net value of stock and trimmmgs $12.10. To convert tliis stock into the finished garments cost $0 285 for wmdmg; $0,285 for warping; 82 cents for knitting; 25 cents for cuttmg; 84 cents for sewing; and 32 cents for mending and fmishmg; or a total cost for labor of $2.80. The department ma- terials and overhead charges amount to $2.59, making the net total cost to the null of a dozen of these garments $17 49 The charge of $1.84 for boxes, labels, bands, and packing is properiy chargeable to the selling expense, and has therefore been omftted. A single garment when finished weighs 16 J ounces, and is manu- factured: to seU at $4.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives per dozen garments $24, less 7 per cent, or $22.32, and the jobber Net stock and trimmings -.,„ ^^ Conversion: *^^- ■'•" Labor . ^ ^ Department materials and general expense V..... ............ 2 b^ Total manufacturing cost ego Net total mill cost "iT^ Net stock is 69.10 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 15.99 per cent of net total mill cost. l&hot is 51.95 per cent of total manufacturing coet. 926 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Ladled swmtsr coat No. 5M.—The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen oi these garments is composed of 16 pounds of 2/1 6's plain and colored worsted yam, valued at $14, and the trim- mmgs, consisting of linings, buttons, and thread, at 64 cents. The waste made amounts to 4 pounds, for which the mill receives 40 cents, making the net value of stock and trimmings $14.24. To convert this stock into the finished garments, the cost for wmd- ing amounts to $1.01; knitting, $2.20; cutting, 35 cents; sewmg, 11.34; mending, 9 cents; finishing. 5 cents; and pressing and exam- ining, 15 cents; or a total cost for labor of $3.74. In addition to the labor cost $3.74 is added for department materials and overhead charges. This will bring the net cost to the mill of a dozen of these garments to $23.17. , , i i i An additional charge of 72 cents is made for boxes, labels, bands, and packing, but this has been omitted from the manufacturmg and charged to the selling expense, the same not being properly charge- able to the former. . A single garment when finished will weigh 16 ounces and is manu- factured to sell at from $5 to $5.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives, per dozen garments, $36, less 7 per cent, or $33.48. Net stock and trimmings 114. 24 Conversion: Labor o' i^ Department materials and general expense ^'4 Total manufacturing cost ^- ^^ Net total mill cost 23. 1 7 Net stock is 61.46 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 22.40 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 58.12 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No. 627. — ^The stock required to manufac- ture a dozen of these garments is 19 pounds of single 3R colored worsted yam valued at $13.25, and the trimmings, consisting of buttons and thread, at 39 cents. The waste made in manufacturing these garments amounts to 2 pounds, for which the mill receives 10 cents, making the net value of stock and trimmings $13.54. In the conversion of tliis stock into the finished garments the wind- ing of the yarn costs 46 cents; knitting, $2 ; cutting, 18 cents; sewmg, 65 cents; mending, 17 cents; and finishmg, 12 cents; or a total cost for labor of $3.58. To this must be added $3.18 for department materials and overhead charges, making the net cost to the mill of a dozen of these garments $20.30. The charge of $1 for boxes, labels, bands, and packing has been deducted from the manufacturing and included in the selling exnense, as it is to this latter expense that the same is properly chargeable. A single finished garment will weigh 23§ ounces, and is manufac- tured to sell at $7. The manufacturer receives for these garments per dozen $33, less 10 per cent, or $29.70, and the jobber receives $48. Net stock and trimmings 513. 54 Conversion: Labor *? *; ? Department materials and general expense 3. 18 Total manufacturing cost ^-76 Net total mill cost 20. 30 Net stock is 66.70 per cent of net toUl mill cost. Labor is 17.64 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 52.96 per cent of total manufacturing cost. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 927 Ladies' sweater coat No. 628.— The stock entering into the manu- racture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 14 pounds of 2/30 s white worsted yarn and 4 pounds of 2/20's white worsted yam, costmg $14.68, less 12 cents for waste, or $11.36. *u ^^^^.^^^'i^i^^®^^*'"^,^^ 1 ^^^^^ Preston collars costing $1.70, with the^additional buttons, linings, hooks and eyes, make the totai cost 1 ^h^ ^^^^^ ^^®* P®^ ^^^^^ garments is as f oUows : Winding, 35 cents • Jmittmg, $121 ; cuttmg, 35 cents; sewing, $1.50; mending and finish- mg, 35 cents; total labor cost, $3.76. Overhead charges, includmg department materials, $3.76. Ihere is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of $1.96, which is included in the selling expense. . i'^ TTJ^^^ garment weighs 22i ounces and is manufactured to retail at $6 per garment. The manufacturer receives $33 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $31.69; and the jobber $48 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings ti7 ci Conversion: ° * *^'* ^^ Labor ^ Department materials and general expense .*.'*'.'.'.*.".* ." ." .* * 3.' 67 Total manufacturing cost y ^^ Net total mill cost 2^94 Net stock, 70.21 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 15.08 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 50.61 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies swmUr coat No. 529.— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 13i pounds com- bination worsted and cotton yam as follows: One end of 2/20^s worsted one end of l/12;s cotton, and two ends of 1/6-1/2's, costing $5.53 plus one end of 2/20's worsted and one end of 1/12's cottoS J^^^'f * pounds costing 87 cents, yarn valued at $6.40 less 9 cents for waste^ making the total value $6.31. Tnmmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costmg 50 cents. ine labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: WincW, $0 375- knittmg, 65 cents; cutting, $1.25; sewing, $2.25; mendi^ $i 25- fimshmg $0.525 ; total lab?r, $2,025. menoing $i.J5, Overhead charges, including department materials, 79 cents. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 34 cents, which is included in the selling expe^ r^ft^® finished garment weighs 21i ounces and is manuSctured to retail at $2.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $15 per dozen garments less 7 per cent, or $13.95, and the jobber $21 per Net stock and trimmings Conversion : f o. 81 Labor ^ Department materials and genemVeiJinse'. * '. '. '. .' .' .' .' .' .' .* .* ." ." ." ." ; ." .' .* .' ^ 79 Total manufacturing cost ~ o oik Net total mill cost ~ Net stock, 70.75 per cent of net total miII<;ost Labor, 21.04 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 71.94 per cent of total manufacturing cost. 928 REPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDTTLB K. Ladies sweater coat No. SSO.— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 13 pounds of 2/15's colored worsted yam, value $10.40. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing 86 J cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 40 cents; knitting, $1.69; cutting, 15 cents; sewing, 88 cents; mendmg, 13 cents; finishing, 28 cents; total. $3.53. Overhead charges, including department matenals, $1.06. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 30 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 16 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $3 per garment. The manufacturer receives $19.50 per dozen garments less 2 per cent, or $19.11, and the jobber receives $24 per dozen garments less 7 per cent, or $23.02. Net stock and trimmings ^H- 265 Conversion: ' ^ ^^ Labor -*••-• ♦J-o3 Depaxtment materials and general expense. ...•-.. !• 00 Total manufacturing cost ^-^^ Net total mill cost 1^- ^ Net stock, 71.07 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 22.27 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 76.91 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies sweater coat No. SSL— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 15i pounds of 2/32's colored worsted yarn, valued at $14.34, less 3i pounds of waste valued at $0,375, making total value $13,965. Trimmings consist of buttons, hnin^, and thread, costing 85 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, $0,265; warping, $0.265 ; knitting, $1.71; cutting, 40 cents; sewing, $1.25; mending, 17 cents; finislung, 22 cents; making a total of $4.28. Overhead charges, including department materials, $4,115. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 80 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 1&-2/3 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $5 per garment. The manufacturer receives $26.50 per dozen garments net, and the jobber $30.69 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings ^^^- ^^^ Conversion: Labor *1 i? r Department materials and general expense ^'li^o Total manufacturing cost ^- ^^^ Net total mill cost 23. 21 Net stock, 64 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 18 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 51 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies sweater coat No. 532.— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 16 pounds of 2/23's white woolen yarn, valued at $11.20. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing $1.15. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 48 cents; knitting, $1.75; cutting, 43 cents; sewing, 74 cents; mending, 24 cents; finishing, 19 cents; making a total of $3.83. i . BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 929 Overhead charges, including department materials, $1.20. ^ There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and pack- mg to the amount of 65 cents, which is included in the selling ex- pense. The finished garment weighs 17i ounces and is manufactured to retail at $2 per garment. The manufacturer receives $18 per dozen less 7 per cent, or $17.74. The above garments are sold to retail dealers only. Net stock and trimmings $12 35 Conversion: Labor 43 §3 Department materials and general expense l! 20 Total manufacturing cost 5, 03 Net total mill cost 17. 38 Net stock, 71.06 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 22.04 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 76.14 per cent of total maufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No. S33.~The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 20J pounds of colored worsted yam valued at $16.20. Trimmings consist of buttons and thread, costing 28 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 24 cents; knitting, $4.32; sewing, $6.05; mending, 26 cents; finishing, 12 cents, making a total of $10.99. Overhead charges, including department materials, $3,405. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 82 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The fimshed garment weighs 27 ounces, and is manufactured to retail at $6.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $48 per dozen less 7 per cent, or $44.64. These garments are handmade and h^nd fimshed, and are sold by the manufacturer to retail dealers only. Net stock and trimmings ♦26 48 Conversion: Labor.... ... . 110 99 Uepartment materials and general expense 3. 405 Total manufacturing cost ^ X4. 395 Net total mill cost 30 375 Net stock 53.38 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 35.60 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 76.35 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No. S34.—The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 15 pounds of 2/30's colored worsted yam, valued at $12, less 2J poundb waste, valued at $0,165, making total value $11,835. Trimmings consist of buttons, lining, braid, hooks and eyes, and thread, costing 76 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 30 cents; drawing m, 45 cents; warpmg, 25 cents; knitting, 75 cents; cutting, $0,175; sewing, $0,875; mending, $0,275; finishing, $0,125, making a total of $3.20. ' ^ Overhead charges, including department materials, $2,575. 930 RBPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 60 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 21 J ounces and is manufactured to retail at $5 per garment, the manufacturer receiving S27 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $25.11, and the jobber receiving $36 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmings |12. 595 Conversion: ^^ ^^ Labor 13.20 Department materials and general expense 2.565 Total manufacturing cost 5. 775 Net total mill cost 18. 370 Net stock is 68.56 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 17.42 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 55.41 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sweater coat No. 535. — The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 13 pounds of 2/23's plain woolen yarn, valued at $8.45, less 1} pounds of waste at 10 cents, making total value $8.35. Trimmings consist of buttons, braid, linings, and thread, costing 40 cents. Labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 16 cents; knitting, $1.17; cutting, $0,125; sewing, $0,675; mending, 20 cents; finishing, $0,125, making a total of $2,455. Overhead charges, including department materials, $1.90. There is an admtional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 60 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 16i ounces and is manufactured to retail at $3 per garment, the manufacturer receiving $18 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $17.43, and the jobber $24 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings $8. 75 Conversion: .„ ...^ Labor 12.455 Department materials and general expense 1. 90 Total manufacturing cost 4. 355 Net total mOl cost 13.105 Net stock is 66.77 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 18.73 per cent of net t^Jtal mill cost. Labor is 56.37 per cent of total manufacturing cost. ladies' sweater vest. Ladies' sweater vest No. 536.— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 51 pounds of 3/16'8 colored worsted yarn, valued at $4.20. Trimmings consist of buttons and thread valued at $0,485. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 6 cents; knitting, $2.40; sewmg, $3.60,- mending, 26 cents; finishing, 12 cents; total, $6.44. Overhead charges, including department materials, $2.28. There is an additional charge tor boxes, bands, labels, and pack- ing to the amount of 58 cents, which is included in the selling expense. 1 J BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 931 The finished garment weighs 7 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $3 per garment, the manufacturer receiving $24 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $22.32. The above garments are sold to retail dealers only. Net stock and trimmings •>• «qc Conversion: ^ ^'^^ it^^'r;- •:-•-;--.---•-■; , $6.44 l^epartment materials and general expense 2. 28 Total manufacturing cost g 72 Net total mill cost ~13~405 Net stock 34.95 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 48.04 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 73.85 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' vest No. 537.— The stock entering into the manufacture of a dozen of these garments is composed of combination of 3} pounds of 2/25 s white woolen yam and 2/20's worsted yarn, costing $2.64, and a combmation of one-fourth pound of 2/20's cotton and 2/30's worsted yam costing 16 cents, or $2.80, less 1 pound of waste at 8 cents per pound, making total yarn value $2.72. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, thread, and tape, costing 52 cents. ^ The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding 65 cents; cuttmg, 24 cents; sewing, 20 cents; mending, 58 cents; finish- mg, 22 cents; making a total labor cost $1,305. Overhead charges, including department materials, 84 cents. Ihere is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 80 cents, which is included in the selling expense Ihe finished garment weighs 4f ounces, and is man^actured to retail at $1.25 per garment. The manufacturer receives $7 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $6.51. The jobber receives $9 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings «q 9^ Conversion: ♦o. ^ Labor ^j^ g^e Department materials and general expense.*.* '.y.///.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.,', .84 Total manufacturing cost 7]^ n 145 Net total mill cost g ggg Net stock, 60.17 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 24.23 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 60.84 per cent of total manufacturing cost. ladies' skibt. Ladies' skiH No. 538.— The stock entering into the manufacture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 8 pounds of 2/30's colored worsted yarn and one-half pound of 2/15's colored worsted yarn, valued at $6,775. Trimmings consist of braid and fastener, costing 20 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding 18 cents,; knitting, 50 cents; cuttmg, 28 cents; mending, 20 cents; finishing, $0,075; total labor cost, $2,235. Overhead charges, including department materials, $1,385. 932 BBPOBT OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUIiB K. There is an additional char^ for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 28 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weiglis Hi ounces, and is manufactured to retail at $2 per garment. The manufacturer receives $12.50 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $11,625. The jobber receives $18 per dozen. Net stock and trimminga $6. 975 Conversion: Labor $1- 235 Department materials and general expense 1. 385 Total manufacturing cost 2. 62 Net total mill cost 9. 596 Net stock, 72.69 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 12.87 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 47.14 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Ladies' sUrt No. S39. — ^The stock entering into the manufacture of a dozen of t^ese garments is composed of 8 pounds of 2/24's colored worsted yam and one-eighth pound of 2/30^8 printed worsted yarn, costing $7.21 less 7 cents for waste, or $7.14. Trimmings consist of braid and fastener, costing20 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 18 cents; knitting, 35 cents; cutting, 9 cents; sewing, 27 cents; mending, 26 cents; finishing, 21 cents; total labor cost, $1.16. Overhead charges, including department materials, $1.82. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 45 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs QJ ounces and is manufactured to retail at $2.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $12.58 net per dozen and tne jobber $13.95 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings $7. 26 Conversion: Labor |1. 16 Department materials and general expense 1. 82 Total manufacturing cost 2, 98 Net total mill cost 10.23 Net stock, 70.87 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 11.34 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 38.93 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Misses' puH^over sweater No. BJfi. — Stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of lOi pounds of 2/30's worsted yarn, valued at $8.20 less \\ pounds of waste, valued at $0,135, makuig total value $8,065. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, 43 cents* knitting, 57 cents; cutting, 35 cents; sewing, 75 cents, mending and finishing, 35 cents; total, $2.45. Overhead charges, including department materials. $1,88. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 45 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs llf ounces and is manufactured to retail at $2.50 per garment. The manufacturer receives $16.50 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $15.35, and the jobber $22.50 per dozen. 1 lii'''''""iiiiiiiiii BBPOBT OP TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 933 Net stock and trimmings •« nuc Conversion: f8.065 Labor j2 45 Department materials and general expense '.'.WW l' 88 Total manufacturing cost ' " ^ 30 Net total mill cost 12 395 Net stock is 65.07 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 19.77 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 66.58 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Misses' sweater coat No. S4I. —The stock entering into the manufac- ture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 8 pounds of 2/20*s colored woolen yarn valued at $4.80. Trinimings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing $0,615 llie labor cost per dozen garments is as follows; Winding, 30 cents: Jmittmg, 82 cents; cuttmg, 10 cents; sewing, 66 cents; mending, 12 cents; fimslung, 34 cents; a total of $2.34. ^' Overhead charges, including department materials, $0,585. 1 here is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 30 cents, which is included in the selling expense:^ Ihe hmshed garment weighs 10 ounces and is manufactured to retail at $1.80 per garment. The manufacturer receives $9.50 per dozen garments less 2 per cent, or $9.31, and the jobber $12 per dozen less 2 per cent, or $11.76. Net stock and trimmings ^k aik Conversion: ♦o.4iO Labor ^ g^ Department materials and general expenses. .................'.,', [585 Total manufacturing cost " « 905 Net total mill cost ft~a4~ Net stock, 64.93 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 28.06 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 80 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Misses' sweater coat No. S4^.— The stock entering into the manufac- ture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 11 pounds of 2/16 s colored worsted yarn valued at $10.56, and the tnmmings. consisting of limn^, buttons, and thread, at 83 cents. ThTwaJte made m the manufacture of these garments amounts to 3 pounds and IS sold by the mill for $0,315, making the net value of stock and trimmings $11,075. "v.ix auu In the conversion of this stock the processes through which it passes and the costs of same are as follows: Winding, $0,156; knit- labor of 11 '423^ '^^^ ^^ ''^''^^' ^"^^ ^^"^""^^ ^^-^^^^ '''* ^ *^^^^ ^^^* ^^^ The department materials and overhead charges amount to 66 The net total cost to the mill, therefore, of a dozen of these gar- ments is $16.158., ° An additional charge of 50 cents is made for boxes, labels, bands, and packing, but this has been deducted from the manufacturing able to^th ^ f ^ expense, as it is not properly charg^ 32080°— H. Doc. 342. 62-2, vol 2 ^21 934 RBPOBT OF TlMfF BOABD OK SCHEBULE K. The single garment when finished weighs IQi ounces, and is made to sell at $2. 50. The mill at wliich this particular garment was made sells direct to the retailer and receives per dozen garments $21 less 12 per cent, or $18.48. Net stock and trimmings 111. 075 Conversion: Labor $4,423 Department materials and general expense : 66 Total manufacturing coat 5. 083 Net total mill cost 16. 158 Net stock is 68.54 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 27.37 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 87.02 per cent of total manufacturing coat. Misses* sweater coats No, 64S. — The stock used in the manufacture of a dozen of these garments amounts to lOJ pounds of 2/25's col- ored woolen yam, valued at $7.18, and the tnmmings at 58 cents. For the waste made in the manufacture of these garments the mill receives 9 cents, making the net value of stock and trimmings $7.67. In the conversion of this stock, the cost of winding and spooUng yam amounts to 54 cents; the knitting, $1.19; cutting, 17 cents; sewing, $1.60; mending, 17 cents; and finishing, 8 cents; a total cost for labor of $3.75. The department materials and overhead charges amount to $1.55. These items bring the net cost of a dozen of these garaients to $12.97. For boxes, labels, bands, and packing an additional charge of 25 cents is made, but tliis has been omitted for the reason that it is a part of the selling rather than the manufacturing expense. The single gamaent when finished weighs 12f ounces, and is made to sell at &om $1.50 to $1.75 per garatient. These gamients are sold by the manufacturer for $13.50 per dozen net. Net stock and trimmings $7. 67 Conversion: Labor $3. 75 Department materials and general expense 1. 55 Total manufacturing coat. 5. 30 Net total mill cost 12. 97 Net stock is 59.14 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 28.91 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 70.75 per cent of total manufacturing cost. JUVENILE SWEATER COAT. Juvenile sweater coat No. 544- — The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 10 pounds of 2/21*8 colored woolen yam, costing $5.50, less 5 cents for waste; total value, $5.45. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, 45 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, $0,205; knitting, 65 cents; cutting, $0,125; sewing, $0,175; mending, $0,125; finisldng, $0,425; total labor cost, $1,705. Overhead charges, including department materials, 64 cents. BEPOBT OF TASIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 935 There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 24 cents, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 11 ounces and is manufactured to retad at $2 per garment. The manufacturer receives $12 per dozen garments, less 7 per cent, or $11.16, and the jobber $15 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings $5 90 Conversion: Labor m ^qj Department materials and general expense. ..'/////.'../.. ....'.'..'. ] 64 Total manufacturing cost 2. 345 Net total mill cost g 245 Net stock, 71.56 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 20.68 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 72.71 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Juvenile sweater coat No, S45,— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 13i pounds of a combination of cotton and woolen yarn, wool count 2/2 1's, cotton count 2/1 4's, valued at $5,265, plus IJ pounds 2/21 's woolen yam costing $0,825, total value $6.09. Trimmings consist of buttons, linings, and thread, costing 50 cents. The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, $0,305; knittmg,65 cents; cutting, $0,125; sewing, $0,225; mending, $0,125: finishing, $0,525; a total labor cost of $1,955. Overhead charges, including department materials, 68 cents. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of 34 cents, which is included in the selling expense The finished garment weighs ISJ ounces and is manufactured to retail at $2 per garment. The manufacturer receives $13.50 per dozen garments less 7 per cent, or $12,555. The jobber receives $18 per dozen. Net stock and trimmings Ag ^og Conversion: *^* Labor |1. 955 Department materials and general expense '...'.'.'.'... 6. 80 Total manufacturing cost 2 635 Net total mill cost 9~^ Net stock, 71.11 per cent of net total mill cost. • Labor, 21.44 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, 74.19 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Juvenile sweater coat No, 546,— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 4f pounds of wor- sted and cotton yarn, in the proportion of 77 per cent worsted to 23 per cent cotton, and is valued at $3.96, and the trimmings, consisting of hmng, buttons, thread, and other trimmings, at 64 cents. Th^ waste made in the manufacture of these garments amounts to only 4 ouncefj and is sold by the mill for $0,005, making the net value of the stock and trimmings $4,595. In converting this stock into the finished garment the cost of winding the yarn amounts to 9 cents, the knitting $0,185, cutting 8 cents, sewing 64 cents, and mending and finis hing 12 cents, a total of $1 .115* 936 BEPOBT OF TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEBUIiE K. The department materials, such as paraffin and needles, and the overhead charges amount to $0,615. The net cost of these garments, therefore, to the mill is $6,325. An additional charge of 14 cents is made for boxes, bands, labels, and packing, but this has been omitted from the cost of these gar- ments for the reason that the same should be included in the selling rather than in the manufacturing expense. A single garment when finished weighs 6J ounces and is made to sell at $1 .25, the manufacturer receiving $9 per dozen less 10 per cent, or $8.10, and the jobber $12 per dozen garments. Net stock and trimmingB |4, 595 Conversion: Labor $1. 115 Department materials and general expense 615 Total manufacturing cost 1. 73 Net total mill cost 6. 325 Net stock is 72.65 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 17.63 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 64.45 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Boys' sweater coat No, 5^7.— To manufacture a dozen of these garments requires 9 pounds of 2/25's colored woolen yarn, valued at $6.30. The trimmings, consisting of hnings, buttons, thread, and hangers, cost 52 cents. In the manufacture of these garments three- fourths of a pound of waste is made, for which the mill receives $0,075, making the net value of stock and trimmings $6,745. To convert tliis stock into the finished garments the cost for spooling is $0.53; knitting, $1.11; cutting, 17 cents; sewing, $1.67: mending, 17 cents; and finishing, 7 cents; or a total labor cost ot Department materials and overhead charges amount to $1.44. The net cost to the mill of a dozen of these garments is $11,905. The additional charge of 25 cents for boxes, labels, bands, and pack- ing has been deducted from the manufacturing and included in the selling expense, as the same is not properly chargeable to the former. A smgle finished garment weighs 11 ounces and is manufactured to sell at from $1 .50 to $1 .75. The manufacturer receives for a dozen of these garments $13.50 net. Net stock and trimmings »q 745 Conversion: Labor 13 72 Department materials and general expense 1. 44 Total manufacturing cost 5 Ig Net total mill cost jj 9Q5 Net stock is 56.66 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 31.25 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 72.09 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Boys' sweater coat No. 54S.— The stock entering into a dozen of these garments is composed of 4J pounds of 2/30's worsted yarn and 3i pounds of 1/8's and 1/10's cotton yam, valued at $3.48, and trim- mings, such as buttons and thread, at 30 cents, making the total net value of stock and trimmings $3.78. iiEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 937 The labor cost in converting this stock into the finished garment is as follows: $0,105 for winding of yarn, 12 cents for knitting, 10 cents for cutting, 21 cents for sewing, 12 cents for mending, and 43 cents for finishing; a total of $1,085. The department materials and general expense amount to .845 cents. This brings the net cost of a dozen of these garments to $5.71. The mill has added 30 cents as the cost for boxing, labels, bands, and packing, but as this is a selling, rather than manufacturing expense, the same has been omitted. The single garment when finished weighs 10 ounces and is made to sell for $1, the manufacturer receiving $8 per dozen garments, less 10 per cent, or $7.80, and the jobber $9.50. Net stock and trimmings $3. 78 Conversion: Labor $1. 085 Department materials and general expense 845 Total manufacturing cost ! 1. 93 Net total mill cost 5. 71 Net stock is 66.29 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 19 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 56.22 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Child's Buster Brown sweater coat No. 649. — The stock entering into the ;nanufacture of a dozen of these garments is composed o! 6 pounds of 2/1 6's colored worsted ysLm, valued at $5.76, and the trimmings, consisting of buttons, Hnings, and thread, at 66 cents, making the total value of the stock and trimmings $6.42. In converting this stock into the finished garments, the winding costs $0,085; knitting, $1,587; and sewing, $0,957; or a total cost for labor of $2,629. The department materials and overhead char2:es amount to $0,309. The net cost of a dozen of these garments to the mill is $9,358. For boxes, labels, bands, and packing an additional charge of 31 cents is made, but this item has been omitted for the reason that it is chargeable to the selling, rather than to the manufacturing expense. A sinde garment finished weighs 9i ounces, and is made to sell at $1.50. The mill making this particular garment sells direct to the retailer and receives $12 per dozen, less 12 per cent, or $10.56. Net stock and trimmings |6 42 Conversion : Labor $2. 629 Department materials and general expense 309 Total manufacturing cost 2. 938 Net total mill cost 9 353 Net stock is 68.60 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 28.09 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor is 89.48 per cent of total manufacturing cost. Infant's sweater coat No. 550.— The stock entering into the manu- facture of a dozen of these garments is composed of 3^ pounds of 2/8-1/2's white woolen yarn, valued at $3.38. T rimmin gs consist of buttons, thread, and linings, costmg 34 cents. 938 REPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON 8CHEI>ULE K, The labor cost per dozen garments is as follows: Winding, S0.105; knitting, 75 cents; sewing, 75 cents; finishing, 28 cents; makinir a total of $1,885. ^ Overhead charges, including department materials, $3,071. There is an additional charge for boxes, bands, labels, and packing to the amount of $0,566, which is included in the selling expense. The finished garment weighs 4 f ounces. The manufacturer receives $13 per dozen garments less a discount of 39 cents, or $12.61. Net stock and trimmingB. Con version: $3. 718 Jfbor .-;-■-- , $1,885 Department matenals and general expense 3.071 Total manufacturing coat 4^ 95(j Net total mill cost 8. 674 Net stock 42.86 per. cent of net total mill cost. Labor 21.73 per cent of net total mill cost. Labor 38.03 per cent of total manufacturing coat. Ladies\ men^s, and misses' mUtena. [Cost per dozen pairs.] Weight per finished pair. 1 ounce. jounce 3 ounce . 1 ounce 1| ounces. n ounces li ounces If ounces. 2| ounces. 4} ounces. Net stocic cost SO. 28 $0.42 SO. 52 SO. 47 SO. 54 SI. 48 SO. 646 SO. 81 SO. 82 .75 .094 S2.04 Conversion: Labor .537 .846 .536 .871 .355 .577 .86 .238 .694 .084 .801 .184 LIS .34 .728 .104 Department ma- terial and gen- eral expenses.. .28 Total manu- facturing cost 1.383 1.407 .932 1.098 .778 .985 1.49 .830 .844 1.664 .09 1.90 2.25 .25 .78 Net total mill cost 1.643 .05 1.827 ,05 L452 .05 1.56R .06 L90 2.25 .25 1.318 .09 1.80 2.25 .25 2.465 .090 3.50 4.50 .50 2.136 .078 2.75 3.50 .50 1.640 .09 L90 2.25 .25 Boxes, bands, labels, and pacldng Belling price to Job- ber. 2.79 .10 Selling price, jobber to re taller 1.90 .25 1.90 .25 1.90 .25 3.50 Retail selling price per pair 4.50 .50 Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost Per ct. 15.8 32.7 39 5 Perct. 23.0 29.3 29.9 Perct 35.8 24.4 38.1 Perct. 29.9 54.9 78.3 Perct. 41.0 52.7 89.2 Perct. 60.0 32.5 81.3 Perct. 30.2 53.8 77.2 Perct. 49.4 44.3 87.5 Perct. 49.3 45.1 88.9 Perct. Labor, per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, per cent of total manufactur- ing cost 73.1 17.6 65.3 2 to lO^^^r^ °*^®'"^*^ °°*®**' *^® manufacturer's selling price is subject to a discount for cash of from In the preceding table a number of ladies', men's, and misses' mittens are shown. These are typical garments ranging in weight from one-half to 4| ounces, and are presented in this form, not for the purpose of comparison, but as a matter of convenience. It will be readily understood why these garments are nol comparable when It IS known that not only does the stock entering into their manufacture vary as to quality, but there is also a wide margin of BEPOET OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 930 difference in the cost of labor. This variance in the cost of labor is due more largely to the type of machine on which these garments are made than to anylhmg else. By way of illustration, the charge for knitting on a circular machine is considerably below the cost of this same process on the Lamb machine — the price on the first-named machine ranging from 10} to 31} cents, while on the latter machine the range is from 48 to 86 cents per dozen pairs. As regards the other processes, such as winding, sewing, mending, steaming and pressing, finishing and examining, the cost on a dozen pairs of one weight varies very little from that on a dozen pairs of some other weight. The stock used in the manufacture of these several garments is composed of various sizes and qualities of woolen, worsted, cotton, and combination yams, varying in price from 28 cents to $1.12 per pound. Another item materially affecting the net cost of these garments to the mill is the general expense, which covers salaries, fuel, light, insurance, taxes, etc. In some instances this item is very low, while in others it appears extremely high. The above table shows a line of mittens made to retail at 25 cents and 50 cents per pair. Ladies* gloves from 1^ to 2 ounces, (Cost per dozen pairs.] Weight per finished pair. • ounces. li ounces. ounces. If ounces. If ounces. If ounces. IH ounces. 2 ounces. "Net stock cost fO 505 SI. 05 SLOO SO. 97 8L179 SI. 31 SO. 80 SL65 Conversion: Labor .352 .165 L09 .22 .97 .348 L105 .365 L242 .43 L671 .154 .342 .215 Department material and general expenses 1.115 4 .435 Total manufacturing cost .517 L31 L318 L470 L672 1.825 3.135 .09 3.75 4.50 .50 .557 L550 Net total mill cost L022 .060 L50 L85 .25 2.36 .10 3.625 4.50 .50 2.318 .06 3.50 4.50 .50 2.440 .06 3.50 4.50 .50 2.851 .099 3.50 4.50 .50 1.357 .06 L90 2.395 .30 Boxes, labels, bands, and packing Selling price to jobber 3.200 .06 Selling price jobber to retailer Retail selling price per pair 4.50 5.00 .75 Net stockjpercentofnet total mill cost. Labor, per cent of net total mill cost. . Labor, per cent of total manufactur- ing cost Perd. 49.4 34.4 68.2 Perd. 44.5 46.2 83.2 Perct. 43.1 41.8 73. G Perct. 39.8 45.3 75.2 Perct. 41.4 43.5 74.3 Perct. 4L8 53.3 9L6 Perct. 58.9 25.2 6L4 Perct. 5L6 34.8 71.9 2 to 10 pe^^ent^^ otherwise noted, the manufacturer's selling price is subject to a discount for cash of from The stock entering into a dozen pau^ of gloves of the various weights shown in the above table is composed, in some instances of pure worsted yarn, while m others both worsted and cotton yarns are used. The cotton yarns used cost 30 cents and 32 cents per I)()und, while the worsted yams range m price from 75 cents to $1.10 per pound. The above presentation is for the sake of convenience and not for purposes of comparison, as some of the garments are made on circular machines, while others are manufactured on a Lamb machine. Where this is true the cost of knitting on a Lamb machine is very much 940 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEBUOI K. higlier than on the circular machine. By way of illustration, tho cost of knitting on a Lamb machine varies from* 72 cents to 75 cents, wMe the cost of knittbg on the circular machme does not exceed 10 cents per dozen pairs of gloves. Except in certain instances where much additional work is required in *' fingering'' the gloves, the cost of labor in tho other processes varies very little as between the garments shown in the above table. This marked difference in the cost of knitting is very largely due to the fact that on a Lamb machme the capacity is about two dozen pairs per day, while on a circular machme the capacity will reach six dozen pairs per day The pnncipal processes employed in the manufacture of these gannents are wmdmg, knitting, cutting, sewing, mending, shaping, and iinishing. r- &i The general expense, or overhead charges, varies accordmg to the size of the mill and the production of each particular line. The coste shown in the above table are on ladies' gloves ranging m weight from IJ^ to 2 ounces, and are manufactured to sell at 25 cents, 30 cents, 50 cents, and 75 cents, the popular price being 60 cents per pair of gloves. men's woolen and worsted gloves. Tlie stock entering into the manufacture of gloves, shown in the accompanying table, is composed of wooL worsted, and cotton yams, used m combinations, varying in price from 32 cents for cotton to 93 cents for worsted yam per pound. ^ The processes of manufacture are exactly the same as those used m the manufacture of ladies' gloves. The production varies according to the kind of machines upon which the gloves are made, ranging from 2 dozen pairs a day on a Lamb macliine to 6 dozen on a circular machine. The labor cost of a dozen pairs on a Lamb machine varies from $1.16 to $1.28, while the labor cost on a circular machine is 89 cents per dozen pairs. Men*8 woolen and worsted gloves. [Cost per dozen pairs.) Net stock cost. Weight per finished pair. 2i ounces SI. 221 Conversion: Labor I>epartment materials and gemerai ex- penses Total manufacturing cost. Net total mill cost Boxes, bands, lal>eLs, and packing ..[ Selling price to jobter Selling price, jobber to retailer '..]'.'. Retaifseiling price per pair Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost... Labor, percent of net total mill cost Labor, per cent of total manufacturing cost. . L283 .435 21 ounces. fO.96 21 ounces. 2i oimces. 1.718 • Ira .15 . 0" r = 2.939 .097 3.625 4.50 .50 Perd. 41.5 43.6 74.7 1.55 .Ot> 1.90 2.25 .25 Perct. 61.9 28.4 74.6 fl.32 .80 24 1.13 2.45 .15 3. 625 4. ,50 .50 Per d. 63.9 36.3 78.8 $1,196 21 ounces. $1.60 3tV ounces. 11.74 L163 .455 1.618 1.16 2.10 2.814 .005 3.625 4.. 50 .50 Pact. 42.5 41.3 71.9 3.70 .05 "4.56 .50 1.1075 .47 3* ounces. $1.54 1.5775 Perd. 43.2 31.4 55.2 3.3175 .06 5.00 6.75 .75 1.238 .164 1.402 Perd. 52.4 33.4 70.2 2.942 .080 3.75 450 .60 Perd, 62.3 42.1 88. a 8 to*iri;^^r **"*®^**' ^^^' ^^ ™«i"^tu«r'a m^xg piioe is subject to a diaoount lor cash of from I EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 941 ladies' hose WOOLEN, WORSTED, CASHMERE, AND MERINO. The stock used in the garments shown in the accompan3dng table IS composed of wool, worsted, cotton, merino, and silk yam. The yarn vanes in price from 16 cents to $1.22 per pound. The styles shown are both seamless and full fashioned, and^ the price per pair varies from 25 cents to 50 cents retail. " The processes of manufacture include winding, knitting, looping, seaming, sewing, mending, cutting, inspecting, turning, dyeing, boarding, mating, finishing, and folding. -*,./&, The labor cost of a pair of hose manufactured on a circular machine *^ sell for 25 cents varies from $0,233 to $0,382 per dozen pairs, and the stock entering into their manufacture varies from 39 cents to 90 cents. The labor cost of a pair of hose manufactured to sell for 50 cents (full fashioned) varies from 70 cents to 99 cents per dozen pairs, and the stock entering into the manufacture varies from $1.44 to $2.94 per dozen pairs. Ladies^ hose. [Cost per dozen pairs.] Net stock cost Weight per finished pair. ounces. $0,905 Conversion: Labor Department material and general expenses!! ! Total manuliacturing cost. Net total mill cost Boxes, bands, labels, and packing Selling price to jobber Selling price jobber to retailer Retailselling price per pair 2 ounces. $0,975 .362 .18 .542 1.447 .065 1.85 Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost... Labor, per cent of net total mill cost Labor, per cent of total manufacturing cost. .25 2i ounces. 2| ounces. $0.87 .505 .18 .685 1.060 .065 2.375 .35 .45 .18 .63 LSO .065 L95 2| ounces. $0.76 .422 .20 .25 Perd. 62.5 25.0 66.8 Perd. 58.7 30.4 73.7 Perd. 58.0 30.0 7L5 .622 1.^ .05 1.75 .25 $0.71 .355 .43 3 oimces. .785 1.496 .035 1.75 .25 Perd. 55.0 30.5 67.7 Perd. 47.5 23.7 45.2 $0.5S .295 .125 .420 LOGO .037 L65 .25 Perd. 58.0 29.5 70.2 Weight per finished pair. Net stock cost. Conversion: Labor Department material and general e^^enses! Total manufacturing cost Net total mill cost Boxes, bands, labels, and packing. . . Selling price to jobber Selling price jobber to retailer " .' " Retailselling price per pair 3 ounces. 3 ounces, $0.90 .382 .46 Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost . . , Labor, per cent of net total mill cost Labor, per cent of total manufacturing cost .842 L742 .037 11.80 2.10 .25 Perd. 51.6 21.9 45.4 $0.39 .233 .35 .583 1.60 2.10 .25 Perd. 40.1 23.9 40.0 3 ounces. $L11 .475 .275 .750 1.86 .065 2.25 3 ounces. $1.22 .422 .20 3i 3A oimces. ounces. $1.78 .35 Perd. 59.7 25.5 63.3 .622 L842 .05 2.25 .35 Perd. 66.2 22.9 67.8 ,615 18 .795 2.575 .065 3.375 $0.49 .319 .35 .669 1.159 .50 Perd. 69.1 23.9 77.4 L85 2.25 .25 Perd. 42.3 27.5 47.7 »Net. 942 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. Ladies' hose-€ontinued. . Weight per finished pair. SI dcmces. 4 oimces. Full fashion. 21 ounces. 3 ounces. ounces. 31 ounces. Net stock cost..... 10.73 $1.63 11.44 11.377 tl.70 $2.94 Conversion: Labor .30 .135 .582 .365 .707 .352 .87 .40 .40 .99 Department material and general expenses .40 Total manufacturing cost .435 .947 1.059 1.27 1.39 1.39 Net total mill cost 1.165 .036 1.85 2.577 .07 3.50 2.499 "3." 76*' 2.647 .06 3.15 3.09 .06 4.00 4.33 Boxes, bands, labels, and Dacking .06 Selling price to jobber 6.00 Sellinic Drice jobber to retailer Retai sellintr nrice per nair .25 .50 .50 .50 Net stock ner cent of net total mill cost Per ct. 62.7 25.7 66.0 Per ct. 63.2 22.6 61.5 Perct. 67.7 28.3 66.8 Per ct. 62.1 32.9 68.6 Perct. 55.0 32.0 71.2 Perct. 67,9 liabor ner cent of net total mill cost 22.9 I>abor per cent of total manufacturing cost 71.2 Note.— Unless otherwise noted the manufacturer's selling price is subject to a discount for cash of from to 10 per cent. men's half hose. The stock entering into the manufacture of the garments shown in the accompanying table is composed of wool, worsted, cotton, and merino yam. The price of the yarn varies from 16 cents to $1.18 per pound and is used in combinations. The processes of manufacture are similar to those in the manufac- ture of ladies' hose. The labor cost of a dozen pairs of seamless hose manufactured to retail at 25 cents a pair varies from 27 cents to $0,442, and the stock entering into their manufacture varies from 57 cents to 86 cents. The net manufacturing cost varies from $1,015 to $1,555 per dozen pairs. Men* 8 halj hose. Weight per pair finished garments • 11 ounces. ounces. 1| ounces. 11 ounces. m ounces. ounces. n. ounces. 21 ounces. Net stock cost $0.86 $0.86 $0,775 $0,785 $0.75 $0.67 $0.44 $0.60 Conversion: Labor .442 .20 .38 .18 .365 .18 .277 .137 .365 .265 .312 .276 .30 .30 .30 Department material and gen- eral expenses .30 Total manufacturing cost .642 .56 .545 .414 .6.30 .587 .60 .60 Net total mill cost per dozen pairs 1.502 .06 U.75 L42 .065 L80 1.320 .065 1.75 1.199 .052 1.70 1.380 .06 1.75 1.257 "i.75"" L04 .03 1.95 1.10 .15 1.20 Boxes, labels, bands, and packing — SeUincf nrice to jobber .03 1.60 Selline: Drice. iobber to retailer 2.00 Retai sellinp price per pftir. .. .25 .25 .25 .25 .25 .25 .25 Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost Perct. 57.3 29.4 68.8 Perct, 60.6 26.8 67.9 Perct. 68.7 27.6 67.0 Per ct. 65.5 23.1 66.9 Perct. 64.3 26.4 67.9 Per ct. 53.3 24.8 53.2 Per ct. 12.3 28.8 60.0 Perct. 50.0 Labor, per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, per cent of total manufacture Ine ccKst 25.0 50.0 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHE-^TJLE K. Men's half hose — Continued. 943 Weight per pair finished garments • 2J ounces. 23 ounces. 2i ounces. 3 ounces. 3 ounces. 4 ounces. Full fashion. 1| ounces. IS ounces. Net stock cost $0.79 $1.60 $0,585 $0.84 $0.57 $2.40 $1.18 $0 985 Conversion: Labor .27 .307 .32 .66 .44 .275- .382 .20 .28 .125 .31 .92 .665 .34 755 Department material and gen- eral expenses 40 Total manufacturing cost .577 .98 .715 .582 .405 1.23 LOOS L155 Net total mill cost per dozen pairs 1.367 2.58 .06 "*4.'25' .50 1.300 .075 1.75 1.422 .05 11.75 .975 .04 L65 3.63 .06 "'iso' .50 2.185 "3.' 37" 2 140 Boxes, labels, bands, and packhig .06 SelUng price to jobber T T 1.85 2 50 Selling price, jobber to retailer RetalTselling price per pair .25 .25 .25 .25 .50 '* * Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost Perct. 57.8 19.8 46.8 Perct. 62.0 12.4 32.6 Perct. 45.0 33.8 61.5 Perct. 59.1 26.9 65.6 Perct. 58.5 28.7 69.1 Perct. 66.1 8.6 25.2 Perct. 54.0 30.4 66.2 Perct. 46 Labor, i>er cent of net total mill cost . Labor, per cent of total manufacturing cost 35.3 65.4 I Net. Note.— Unless otherwise noted, the manufacturer's seUing price is subject to a discount for cash of from 2 to 10 per cent. Lumbermen's socks. [Cost per dozen pairs.) Weight of finished garment. ' 4 ounces. 5§ ounces. 6i oimces. 9} ounces. 11 ounces. 14 ounces. 16 ounces. Net stock cost $1.40 $2.45 $2.10 $L77 $4.28 $2.76 $3.12 Conversioa' Labor .29 .17 .59 1.115 .47 .27 .75 1.31 .75 1.31 .75 1.31 .75 1.31 Department material and general expenses Total manufacturing cost. .46 1.705 .74 2.06 2.06 2.06 2.06 Net total mill cost Boxes, labels, bands, and pack- ing 1.86 .06 12.25 4.155 .03 2.84 .10 3.G5 4.50 .50 3.83 .065 14.00 4.75 .50 6.34 .06 17.50 9.00 1.00 4.82 .065 15.00 6.00 .75 5.18 .06 6.00 7.50 .85 Selline price to jobber Selling price, jobber to retailer. . 4.00 .50 RetalTselling price per garment. .25 Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost PercefU. 24.7 15.4 63.0 PercefU. 59.0 14.2 34.6 Per cent. 73.9 16.5 63.5 Percent. 46.2 19.6 36.4 Percent. 67.5 11.8 36.4 Percent. 57.3 15.6 36.4 Percent. 60.2 14.5 36.4 Labor, per cent of net totAl mill cost Labor, per cent of total manu- facturinE cost iNet. Note.— Unless otherwise noted, the manufacturer's selling price Is subject to a discount of from 2 to 10 per cent. 944 BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. lumbermen's socks. The stock entering into the manufacture of the class of goods shown in the above table is composed of noils, shoddy, cotton, and worsted, usually in combinations, prices ranging from 22 to 40 cents per pound. The labor cost, which includes knitting, looping, fulling, shaping, and finishing, is reduced to a minimum, as the processes of manufacture are simplified by the use of special macninery. The labor cost for socks ranging from 9 to 16 ounces per dozen pairs is, on the average, 75 cents. Ladies^ scarfs and shawh. [Cost per dozen.] Weight per finished garment. 4i ounces. 5} ounces. 6 ounces. 6 J oimces. 9i ounces. 9J oimces. Net stock cost 12.085 13.15 $4.85 $3.62 $6.51 $5,775 Conversion : Labor .26 .26 .475 .57 .745 .84 .725 .68 1.20 2.07 1.79 Department material and general ex- penses 1 3^5 Total manufacturing cost.. .52 1.045 1.585 1.405 3.27 3.135 Net total mill cost 2- ms .10 3.50 4.m .50 4.195 .20 5.50 7.50 1.00 6.435 .20 7.50 10.50 1.50 5.025 .20 6.50 8.50 1.00 9.78 .30 11.50 15.00 1.75 8 910 Boxes, lal>els, bands, and packing .25 Selling price to jobber 11 00 Selling price, jobl)er to retailer 15 00 Retail selling price per garment 2.00 Net stock, per cent of net total rilll cost . . Labor, per cent of net total mill cost Laboi, per cent of total manufacturing cost . Per cent. 80.0 10.0 50.0 Percent. 75.1 11.3 45.5 Percent. 75.4 11.6 47.0 Percent. 72.0 14.4 51.6 Per cent. 66.6 12.3 36.7 Percent, 64.8 20.1 57.1 Note.— Unless otherwise noted, the manufacturer's selling price Is subject to a discount for cash of from 2 to 10 per cent. ladies' scarfs and shawls. The above table presents plain and honeycomb shawls varying in weight from 4f ounces to 9J ounces, with prices ranging from 50 cents to $2 per garment, retail. The stock entering into the manufacture of these garments costs on the average about 70 cents per pound and is composed of worsted yarn. The labor processes include winding, drawing in, warping, knitting, cutting, sewing, mending, and finishing. These garments are manu- factured on the Raschelie machine, an imported machine known to the trade as a flat machine to distinguish it from circular machines. BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 945 Ladies' hats, caps, hoods, etc. [Cost i)er dozen.] • 4 ounces. 1 Weight per finished garment • 4i ounces. 4i ounces. 5§ ounces. 6 oimces. 7i ounces. 8 ounces. 81 ounces. 8J ounces. Net stock cost $3.05 $3.29 $3.37 $3,825 $8.58 $4.08 $5.52 $6.47 $5.95 Conversion: Labor .81 .67 1.83 .85 L60 .77 L35 .81 1.355 .195 L355 .185 L52 2.06 2.60 1.45 3.10 Dep a rt m e n t, material, and general e x - penses 1.44 TotAl manu- fact u r i n g cost L48 2.68 2.37 2.16 1.550 1.540 3.58 4.05 4.54 Net total mill cost Boxes, labels, bands, and pack- ing Selling price to job- ber 4.53 .60 7.00 9.00 1.25 5.97 .60 9.00 12.00 1.50 5.74 .20 7.50 10.50 1.50 5.985 .20 9.00 12.00 L50 10.130 .82 5.620 .82 9.10 .82 10.62 .60 15.00 2L00 3.00 10.49 .60 15.00 Selling price jobber to retailer 18.00 3.00 12.00 2.00 18.00 3.00 21.00 Retail selling price per gaiment 3.00 Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost Per cent. 67.3 17.9 54.7 Percent. 55.1 30.7 68.3 Percent. 58.7 27.9 67.5 Percent. 63.9 22.0 62.5 Percent. 84.7 13.4 87.4 Percent. 72.6 24.1 88.0 Percent. 60.7 16.7 42.5 Percent. 6L5 24.7 64.2 Percent. 56.7 Labor, per cent of net total mill cost. Labor, per cent of total manufactur- ing cost 29.6 68.3 Note.— Unless otherwise noted the manufacturers' selling price is subject to a discount for cash of from 2 to 10 per cent. ladies' HATS, CAPS, HOODS, ETC. The preceding table purposes to show the cost of making hats, caps, hoods, etc. The stock used in this class of goods is roving rather than spun yarn and is usually of a superior quality, costing in the neighborhood of 90 cents per pound. The labor, which is crocheting, is usually "let out" to institutions and done at piecework prices, ranging from $1.25 to $3 per dozen garments, depending upon the style and amount of work required in each garment. The manufacturers consider these garments novelties rather than staple articles. The stabihty comes as the taste is established for this class of goods. 946 BEPOET OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K, Toqitea. (Cost per doienj Net cost stock Conversion: Lalx)r Department material and general expense Total manulacturing cost Net total mill cost Boxes, labels, bands, and packing Selling price, to jobber Selling price, jobber to retailer RetailseiliDg price per garment Net stock, per cent of net total mill cost Labor, per cent of net total mill cost Labor, per cent of total manufacturing cost . . . Weight per finished garment. n ounces. lass ounces. .27 ■Ml .53 1.41 .14 U.63 1.86 .26 Percent. 62.4 19.1 50.9 2 ounces. SI. 245 11.75 .515 .83S L353 2.59S .287 .50 Percent. 47.9 19. S 38.1 .683 .876 2.626 .12 a25 4.25 .50 Percent. 66.5 11.3 33.8 2| ounces. $1.60 3f ounces. $1,075 .33 .65 .88 2.48 .12 3.25 425 .50 .29 28 .57 2.545 .27 3.50 4.50 .50 PerceiU. 64.5 13.3 37.5 Percent. 11.4 50.9 tNet Note.— Unless otherwise noted the manu&cturers' selUng price is subject to a discount for cash of from 2 to 10 per cent. The stock used in the manufacture of the garments shown in the above table is, with the exception of that weighing If ounces in which woolen yam is used, composed of worsted jam ranging in price from 76 cents to $1 per pound. Disregarding this garaaent weighing If ounces, on which the knit- ting cost was 25 cents and the sewing 20 cents, the cost of knitting the several garaaents varies from $0,065 to 14 cents. The wind- ing of the yam entering into these garments, while costing less than the knitting, varies almost as much as the cost of knitting — the range being from $0,022 to $0.09. As between the other processes such as mending and finishing there is little difference. The general expense in the manufacture of these garacients varies considerably, but this of course is due to the capacity of the mill and the production of this particular line. PART V. REPORT ON WAGES AND EFFICIENCY OF LABOR AND MACHINERY IN THE UNITED STATES. 947 THE RATES OF WAGES AND PRODUCTIVE EFFICIENCY OF LABOR IN THE WOOLEN AND WORSTED INDUSTRY OF THE, UNITED STATES. The agents of the Tariff Board made a special and detailed investi- gation of labor and machine efficiency in 44 woolen and worsted mills in 14 States which have, when all of their machinery is in operation, 45,500 employees, or 27.8 per cent of the employees reported by the Bureau of the Census as engaged in the industry in the United States during the year 1909. The object of this particular investigation was to ascertain: (1) The rates of wages and earnings of the employees in each occu- pation; (2) labor cost of production and productive efficiency; (3) months and years of experience in each occupation in the industry; (4) sex, country ol birth, and former occupation of each employee; (5) machine production from wool scouring to spinning; (6) loona produc- tion and weaving time of each weaver; (7) weaving labor piece price per yard ; (8) kind of goods woven, with number of ends, weight, size, and quality of yarns, picks per inch, and speed of loom in picks per minute. The census of 1909 reported that in all of the woolen and worsted mills of the United States there were 72,185 looms, 1,978 worsted combs, 3,822 woolen and 2,259 worsted carding machines, 1,526,151 woolen and 1.914,454 worsted-producing spindles. In the establish- ments investigated by the Tariff Board m 1911 there were 18,634 looms, or 25.8 per cent of the total in the United States in 1909; 645 combs, or 32.6 per cent; 437 sets of woolen cards, or 9.7 per cent; 627 worsted cards, or 39.6 per cent; 495,902 woolen and worsted producing spindles, or 12.4 per cent of the total. The mills investigated were in the following States: Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Ehode Island, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Wis- consin, and Kentucky. BEX, COUNTRY OF BIRTH, AND EXPERIENCE OF OPERATIVES IN THE INDUSTRY. The agents of the Tariff Board obtained from each employee answers to certain specified questions upon* individual schedule cards, of which the following is a copy: THE WOOLEN AND WORSTED INDUSTRY. Identification No. Pay roll No. and name of employee, Sex of employee (male or female), — Under or over 16 years of age, Specific occupation of employee, The Tariff Board, Washington, D. C. Name of department of mill where working. Years or months employed in this mill, Years or months employed in this occupation, . Years or months employed in the woolen industry, . Name of former industry and occupation before beginning work in woolen mills. Coimtry of birth of employee, . The above questions were answered by 35,029 persons at work in the mills in the 14 States at the time of the agents' visits. The following table, derived from tjie answers given, shows the occupation, sex, and country of birth of those employees: 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 ^22 ^^ 050 BEPOBT OF TABIPF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 1— Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the Total. Males Fe- ' males Country of birth. Department and occapotiim. United States Canada. England. Males ' males Males , Fe- ' males Malee Fe- ' males. Supervisory and clerical: Overseer, foreman, etc - l,38fi 575 1,324 439 •B2 136 562 156 22 103 57 7 1 347 49 16 Clerk(miU) Total . 1,961 1,763 690 31 119 198 168 63 718 253 6 19 125 64 1 396 133 1 4 16 4 7' Wool-sorting department: Wool sorter 858 31 172 12 — « — 15 3 Wool mixer Picker tender 26 8 Total 1,0*>1 840 221 277 38 23 3 138 11 Wool-scouring department: Scoiiring-macnine tender Other machine tender 1C2 33 137 33 25 23 6 6 15 1 Total 19,5 170 25 oo 1 6 16 iiy 1 1 Carding department: Card tender 320 158 164 78 54 258 158 158 64 51 62 6" 14 3 79 44 82 18 17 11 i' 1 21 10 6 1 8 7 25 1 1 i' Card stripper Card grinder Ballinghead tender Other machine tender 2 Total 774 689 85 240 13 39 1 42 1 Combing department: Comber oB9 753 31 207 246 11 192 507 20 20 36 2 48 74 3 7 11 1 9 8 18 '"« Gill box tender Other machine tender Total 1,183 464 719 1.365 68 51 125 374 18 7 ^1 10 26 41 Drawing department: Drawing frame tender 1,603 238 37 7 106 Spinning department: Doff er 937 1,831 1,048 67 44 40G 38 403 758 805 65 37 102 38 534 1,073 243 2 7 304 168 301 365 33 16 25 16 296 453 72 2 2 4 64 52 7 4 9 3 39 74 1 14 66 66 2 4 22 40 5 Spinner Bobbin carrier and rail setter... Band bov Roll coverer ♦ , . Piecer Back boy 2S 1 Total 4,371 2,208 *> irQ i\* 1 829 138 114 176 67 £, Ihd »4t Twisting department: Twisting frame tender 1,234 67 1,167 24 392 4 49 7 43 Spooling and whiding department: Winder 582' 1,114 110 58 472 1,056 33 41 216 621 . 5 38 71 5 2 26 48 Spooler Total 1,*596 168 1,528 74 837 5 109 7 74 Dressing department: Dresser tender 462 86 343 15 119 71 210 6 62 3 2,5 . 1 '"'i' . 47 4 Beamer Total 548 3.58 190 216 66 26 1 47 4 Weaving department: Weaver 6,728 602 171 326 2,838 602 . 15 13 2,890 '156' 313 814 273 . 15 7 769 "m . 218 298 40 . ""2" 299 ""is' . 22 142 104 . ■"'2' 177 * "4* 15 Loom fixer Hander-in Drawer-in Total 6,827 3,468 . J. 359 1 inn ■• eamer,%rindek fccer and J-boTtender ' CTP^ fhft K "" . ?""l''^'' of ™*1« *«d f«m^« weavers is not great, the number of males being 2,838 and the number of femafes, COUNTKY OF BIRTH. BEPOBT OP TAEEFF BOABD OIT SCHEDULE K. 955 Table 2. — Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and by country of birth. Country of birth. Total United States Canada England France Germany Ireland , Scotland, and Wales Italy Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.. Eastern and southeastern Europe Other countries Total. Male. Female. Per cent distribution. Total. Male. Female. 35,029 19,347 15,682 100.0 100.0 100.0 12,799 6,140 6,659 36.5 31.7 42.5 2,102 1,178 924 6.0 6.1 5.9 2,799 1,980 819 8.0 10.2 6.2 398 250 148 1.1 1.3 0.9 1,474 1,147 327 4.2 fi.9 2.1 1,628 1,031 597 4.7 6.3 3.8 4,097 2,486 1,611 11.7 12.9 10.3 140 74 66 0.4 0.4 0.4 8,200 4,170 4,030 23.4 21.6 25.7 1,392 891 501 4.0 4.6 3.2 In the establishments investigated, 12,799, or 36.5 per cent of the total number of persons employed, were bom in the United States and 22,230, or 63.5 per cent, were foreign bom. Of the 22.230 for- eign bora, 12,297 persons, or 35.1 per cent of aU of the employees in the mUls^ere natives of Italy ana the comitries of eastern and south- eastern Europe. Great Britain and Ireland are represented by 4,427, or 12.7 per cent, of the wage earners; Canada, by 2,102, or 6.0 per cent; and Germany by 1,474, or 4.2 per cent. No other country is represented by so large a number of operatives. More females than males were reported for the United States and for eastern and southeastern Europe, while the countries contributing more largely to the number of male operatives are Germany , Great Britain and Ireland, France, Italy, and Canada. Some interesting facts with regard to the nationalities represented in various kinds of work are brought out in the larger table (Table 1) flven above. The native bom predominated in the occupations that emand especial skiU or ability. The natives of the British Isles and Germany were found chiefly in the occupations requiring considerable skill, wliile Italy and the coimtries of eastern and southeastern Europe are represented largely in the occupations requiring comparatively little or no experience or skill, although many wage-earners from those countries have attained to a great degree of efficiency. The supervisory class was made up largely of native-bom and British employees. The native bom formed 42.1 per cent of the total number, although the proportion of native bom in the total number of wage-eamers in the specified mills was only 36.5 per cent. Tlie EngUsh overseers, foremen, etc., numbered 347, or one-fourth of the total number, while the English, Irish, Scotch, and Welsh in this supervisory class together constituted over one-third (468, or 33.8 per cent) of the total. The largest proportion of native born is shown for the menders. Of 1,435 menders, 1,059, or 73.8 per cent, were bom in the United States. The work of the menders is practically weaving by hand, and requires much care and skill and plays an important part in the perfection of the product of the mills. The majority of the dresser tenders, spoolers, and burlers also were native born, as shown by the followmg summary table based on Table 1. This summary presents data for those occupations wliich »66 liii^'l BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAHD ON SCHEDULE K. reqiiire experience and unon which efficiency in manufacturing woolen and worsted goods depends to a great degree. '^''w^.^'^fn^fhl^Tr^T^f '"'^7^^''^ arid foreign bom employees in woolen and ^.ZJTm- "• ^^ ^""l^^ SMtesJor occupations which require experience and won which efficiency m rrmnufactunng woolen and worsted goods niainly depends ^ Occupatkm. Wool sorter Wool carder Card stripper " Comb and gill box tender.. . Drawing-frame tender Spinner Twisting-frame tender Spooler and winder Dresser tender Weaver Loom fixer .,. Bm-ler Mender "[[' Finishing-machine tender.. ! .' Overseer and foreman 858 690 320 258 158 158 1.152 453 1.003 238 1.831 758 1,234 67 1,C90 168 462 343 5,728 2,838 602 602 1.348 16 1.435 107 2,402 2,290 1,386 1,324 168 265 62 90 44 699 178 1,365 425 1,073 754 1,167 416 1,528 Oil 119 272 2,890 1,583 273 i.332 686 1,328 1,059 172 576 e 584 Country of birth. Occupation. Other foreign countries. Total, foreign countries. Total. Wool sorter Wool carder Card stripper Comb and gUl box tender Drawing-frame tender Spinner Twisting-frame tender Spooler and winder. . Dresser tender Weaver Loom fixer. Hurler Mender Finishing - machine tender Overseer and fore- man Males. Fe- males. Total. Per cent of totaL Bom in foreign coun- tries. Males. 264 79 39 191 417 433 156 311 138 2,411 292 284 333 705 682 244 60 39 78 76 238 IS 37 122 1,333 292 11 8 668 672 20 19 113 341 195 138 274 16 1,078 Fe- males. Bom in United States. TotaL 273 326 87 10 593 230 114 974 1,178 1,077 818 786 190 4,145 329 662 376 1,886 802 437 179 114 397 187 457 43 94 133 2,024 329 13 20 1,766 762 156 51 677 991 620 776 691 67 2,121 649 356 120 40 30.9 28.1 27.8 16.5 26.6 41.2 33.7 53.7 58.9 27.6 45.3 60.9 73.8 23.4 42.1 69.1 7L9 72.2 84.6 73.6 58.8 66.3 46.3 41.1 72.4 54.7 49.1 26.2 76.6 57.9 Italv and eastern and south- eastern Eu- rope. Other foreign coun- tries. 38.3 47.2 47.6 68.0 47.5 35.2 63.7 28.0 1L3 30.3 6.2 28.0 3.0 48.0 8.7 30.8 24.7 24.7 16.5 26.0 23.6 12.6 18.3 29.8 42.1 48.5 21.1 23.2 28.6 49.2 r I t EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 957 Table 3 brings out the fact that more than two-thirds of the operatives in seven of the important occupations were foreign born These occupations and the percentages of foreign born for them are as follows: Comb and gill-box tender, 84.5; finishing-ma- chine tender, 76.6; drawing-frame tender, 73.5; weaver, 72.4; card stripper, 72.2; wool carder, 71.9; and wool sorter, 69.1. Tlie natives of Italy and eastern and southeastern Europe were more numerous than the native born in combing, gill-box tendmg, drawing- frame tending, card stripping, wool carding, wool sorting, twisting- frame tendiQg, finishing-machine tending, and weaving. Many nationalities are represented among the weavers and the spinners. In the case of the weavers only a little over one-fourth (1,583, or 27.6 per cent) were native born, and a slightly larger pro- portion (2,411, or 30.3 per cent) were from eastern and southeastern Europe. Canada stood out prominently with 597, or 10.4 per cent, of all the weavers. In the case of spinners the proportion of native bom was greater, those born in the United States forming 41.2 per cent of the total number. Over one-third (35.2 per cent) were born in Italy and coun- tries in eastern and southeastern Europe. The remaining 23.6 per cent were born in Canada, Great Britain and Ireland, Germany, France, and other countries. The following summary shows the distribution of native and for- eign born in the various departments : Table 4. — Employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by department and by country of birth. Department Total. Sorting Scouring Carding Combing Drawing Spinning Twisting Spooling and wind- ing Br^sing Weaving Burling and mend- ing Finishing , Dyeing General labor Mechanical Other occupations. , Supervisory and clerical Total. 35,029 1,061 195 774 1,183 1,603 4,371 1,234 1,696 548 6,827 4,220 2,462 229 3,197 644 2,824 1,961 Country of birth. United States. Number. Per cent. 12,799 36.5 315 29.7 29 14.9 253 32.7 183 15.5 425 26.5 1,753 40.1 416 33.7 911 53.7 281 51.3 2,203 32.3 2,548 60.4 576 23.4 34 14.8 873 27.3 230 35.7 926 32.8 843 43.0 Foreign countries. Total. Number. 22,230 Per cent. 63.5 746 166 521 1,000 1,178 2,618 818 785 267 4,624 1,672 1,886 195 2,324 414 1,898 1,118 70.3 85.1 67.3 84.5 73.5 59.9 66.3 46.3 48.7 67.7 39.6 76.6 85.2 72.7 64.3 67.2 57.0 Italy and eastern and southeastern Europe. Number. 12,297 412 117 336 809 761 1,746 662 474 120 1,822 650 1,181 124 1,637 131 1,082 206 Per cent. 35.1 38.8 60.0 43.4 68.4 47.5 39.9 53.7 28.0 21.9 26.7 15.4 48.0 54.2 51.2 20.3 38.3 10.5 Other foreign countries. Number. Per cent. 9,933 28.4 334 49 185 191 417 872 156 311 147 2,802 1,022 705 71 687 283 816 912 31.5 25.1 23.9 16.1 26.0 20.0 12.6 18.3 26.8 41.0 24.2 28.6 31.0 21.5 44.0 28.9 46.5 958 BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEBULE K. The only departments in which the number of operatives bom in the United States was greater than the number bom in foreign coun- tries are the spoolmg and winding, dressing, and burling and mending departments. Of these, the burling and mending department had the largest proportion of native-born operatives. Of the 4,220 employees in the burlmg and mending department, 2,548, or 60.4 per cent, were born in the United States. The departments with the largest proportions of foreigners are the scouring, combing, and dyeing departments. In each of these depart- ments over four-fiftlis of the operatives were from foreign countries. Operatives from Italy and eastern and southeastem Europe predom- inated in each of these departments. EXPERIENCE OF OPERATIVES. The question of previous experience is an important one. The fol- lowing table is a summary of the facts brought out by the answers to the querj as to the former industry and occupation before begin- ning work m woolen and worsted mills: Table h.— Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United S totes j by sex and by former industry. Former industry. Total. TotaL Mate. Female. 35,029 Not gainful, in school, and at home , Agriculture, forestry, and animal hus- bandry Mining \ Transportation and trade Public service Professional service ] Domestic and i>ersonai service other textile industry than woolen indua- ^try other manuliacturing and mechanical pur- suit 17,835 6,252 268 4,447 U9 47 1,213 2,967 2,881 19,347 7,678 3,139 266 3,971 115 35 194 1,681 2,268 Per cent distribution. TotaL 15,682 10,157 2,113 2 476 4 12 1,019 1,286 613 100.0 Male. Female. 50.9 15.0 as 12.7 0.3 0.1 3.5 8.5 8.2 100.0 39.7 16.2 1.4 2a5 0.6 a2 LO &7 11.7 100.0 64.8 0) 0) 13.6 3.0 0.1 6.5 8.2 8.0 1 Less than one-tenth of 1 per cent. Of the 35,029 operatives, 29,181^ or 83.3 per cent, had no experience m any manufacturing or mechanical industiy before going to work in the woolen and worsted mills. Wage earners to the number of 2,967, or 8.5 per cent of the total number, had been previously employed in textile mdustries other than the woolen industiy, and 2,881, or 8.2 per cent, had been employed in other manufacturing or mechanical industries. Of the 29,181 persons who had no ''previous experience'' before entering the woolen mills, 17,835, or 50.9 per cent of the total number, had been at school or at home, and 11,346, or 32.4 per cent of the total number, had been emploved in agriculture, transportation, trade, domestic service, and otner nonmanufacturing occupations. The classification of industries used by the Bureau of the Census in the presentation of the data for occupations for the enumeration of 1910 has been followed in the preparation of the tables showmg former industry. BEPOET OF TAEIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 959 Of the 19,347 male employees, about two-fifths (7,678, or 39.7 per cent) had not been engaged m any gainful occupation before entermg the woolen and worsted mills; one-fifth (3,971, or 20.5 per cent) haa been engaged in transportation and trade; and one-fifth (3,949, or 20.4 per cent) had haa experience in manufacturing and mechanical pursuits other than the woolen industry. A larger proportion of the female operatives (10,157, or 64.8 per cent of the 15,682 women and girls engaged in the work of the mills) were entirely new to the industrial world, having entered the mills directlv from the home or the school. Over 2,000 (2,113, or 13.5 per cent) nad been engaged in agricultural pursuits. The number of women who had had some previous experience in manufacturing and mechanical pursuits was 1,899, or 12.1 percent of all the female wage earners in these mills. The number of operatives with previous experience in other textile industries than the woolen industry and in other manufacturing and mechanical pursuits was 5,848, and of these, 2,212, or 37.8 per cent, were born in the United States, and 3,636, or 62.2 per cent, were of foreign birth. This is shown in the following summary table : Table 6. — Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States^ by country of birth and by former industry. Total num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Former industry. Country of birth. At school or home. Agriculture, trade, and domestic and other service. Other tex- tile industry than woolen. other manu- facturing and mechanical pursuit. • Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Nnm- bOT. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Total 35,029 100.0 17,835 50.9 11,346 32.4 2,967 a6 2,881 &2 United States 12,799 22,230 36.5 63.6 8,733 9,102 24.9 26.0 1,854 9,492 5.3 27.1 1,068 1,899 3.0 6l4 1,144 1,737 3.3 6.0 Foreign countries Italy and eastern and south- eastem Europe 12,297 9,933 35.1 28. 4 3,843 6,259 11.0 15.0 7,069 2,423 20.2 6.9 626 1,373 L5 3.9 859 878 2.5 2.5 Other foreign countries Of the 11,346 operatives who had been employed in agriculture, trade, and domestic and other service before entermg the woolen and worsted mills, 9,492 were bom in foreign countries, and of these foreign-bom operatives 7,069 came from Italy and eastern and south- eastern Europe. Table 7 shows the distribution of the operatives by country of birth and by former industry. 960 BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULiE K. Table 7.— Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United >'/ ''('s, by country ofhirth and by former industry. Country of birth. Total. Former industry. Not gainful, in school and at home. Total. United States Canada England France Germany Ireland, Scotland, and Wales Italy Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. . Eastern and southeastern Europe. Other countries 35,029 12,799 2.102 2,799 398 1.474 1.628 4,097 140 8.200 1,392 Agri- cul- tun, fores- ^1 and ani- mal hus- band- ry. 17,835 8,733 1,062 1,637 294 845 754 1,903 65 1,940 602 5.252 358 212 42 4 108 118 610 18 3,522 260 Min- ing. 268 24 1 48 1 4 19 26 1 133 11 Trans- porta- tion and trade. 4,447 1,144 221 345 25 196 238 l,a33 23 1,(M7 175 Pub- lic serv- ice. 119 37 5 15 1 6 14 21 2 16 2 Pro- fes- sional serv- ice. Do- mes- tic and per- sonal serv- ice. Other tex- tile in- dus- try than wool- en in- dus- try. Other nian- ufac- tur- in^ anc me- chan- ical pur- suit. 47 17 2 2 1 6 10 1 6 2 1,213 274 44 31 10 40 60 119 12 526 97 2,967 1,068 363 447 43 141 239 105 3 421 137 2,881 1,144 192 232 20 133 180 270 16 589 106 PER CENT. Total 100.0 United States Canada England France Germany Ireland, Scotland, and Wales Italy Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. . Eastern and southeastern Europe. Other countries 50.9 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 68.2 50.5 58.5 73.8 57.3 46.3 46.5 46.4 23.7 43.3 15.0 2.8 10.1 1.5 1.0 7.3 7.2 14.9 12.9 42.9 18.7 0.8 12.7 0.2 0.1 1.7 0.3 0.3 1.2 0.6 0.7 1.6 0.8 8.9 10.5 12.3 6.3 13.3 14.6 25.2 16.4 12.8 12.6 0.3 0.1 0.3 0.2 0.5 0.3 0.4 0.9 0.5 1.4 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.4 0.2 0.7 0.1 0.1 3.5 2.2 2.1 1.1 2.5 2.7 3.7 2.9 8.6 6.4 7.0 8.6 8.4 17.3 16.0 10.8 9.6 14.7 2.6 2.2 5.1 9.8 8.2 8.9 9.1 8.3 5.0 9.0 11.0 6.6 10.7 7.2 7.6 .The countries ranking above the average in the proportion of operatives who had previous experience in industries where they may have had training that would be helpful in their work in the woolen industry are Canada, Great Britain, Germany, the United btates, and France. Almost one-half of the operatives from eastern and southeastern ji^rope had been engaged m agricultural pursuits. One-fourth of the Itahans had been engaged in trade and transportation, and over one-eighth in agriculture. Similar data for males and females are presented in Table 8. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 961 Table %.— Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and country of birth and by former industry. Total. Former industry. Sex and country of birth. Not gainful in school and at home. Agri- culture for- estry, and animal hus- band- ry. 1 Min- ing. Trans- porta- tion and trade. ■ Pub- lic serv- ice. Pro- fes- sional serv- ice. Other TT) Other manu- mestic f^f '!« /ac- T»p- try and ^^ than me- ?2rv woolen chani- ^F} Indus- cal ^^- try. pur- suit. Total 35,029 17,835 5,252 268 4,447 119 47 1,213 2,967 2,881 Male 19,347 15,682 7,678 10,157 3,139 2,113 266 2 3,971 476 115 4 35 12 194 1,019 1,681 1,286 Female 2,268 613 Dniied States 12,799 8,733 368 24 1,144 37 17 274 1,068 1,144 Male 6,140 6,659 3,497 5.236 336 22 24 916 228 33 4 8 9 69 205 512 656 Female 746 399 CaPft'iH 2,102 1,062 212 1 221 5 5 2 44 363 192 Male 1,178 924 373 689 209 3 1 207 14 2 8 36 208 155 Female 166 27 England 2,799 1,637 42 48 345 15 2 31 447 232 Male 1,980 819 1,023 614 42 48 322 23 15 2 12 19 298 149 Female 218 14 France 398 294 4 1 25 1 10 43 20 Male 250 148 179 115 4 1 18 7 1 4 6 25 18 Female 18 2 Oflrmany.... 1,474 845 108 4 196 6 1 40 141 133 Male 1,147 327 604 241 105 3 4 189 7 6 '"'i' 6 7 33 60 108 33 239 Female 124 9 Ireland, Scotland and Wales. .. 1,628 754 118 19 238 14 180 Male 1,031 697 341 413 118 18 1 224 14 14 5 1 9 51 119 135 104 Female 167 13 Italy 4,097 1,903 610 26 1,033 21 10 106 270 Male 2,486 1,611 670 1,233 479 131 26 939 94 21 9 1 1 38 81 70 35 Female 234 36 Norway, Sweden, and Den- mark 140 65 18 1 23 2 12 3 15 Male 74 66 17 48 1,940 17 1 3,622 1 20 3 2 1 ...... 2 1 Female 14 1 Eastern and southeastern Eu- rope 8,200 133 1,047 16 6 526 421 689 Male 4,170 4.030 693 1,247 1,589 1,933 132 1 978 69 . 16 6 32 494 236 186 Female 489 100 other countries 1,392 602 260 11 175 2 2 97 137 106 Male 891 501 281 321 240 20 . 11 158 17 . 2 2 15 82 88 49 Female 94 12 From a study of the tables showing the industries in which the operatives were engaged before they commenced work m the woolen mdustry, it is evident that only a small proportion of the operatives entered the woolen and worsted mills with any experience that would serve to make them skilled in the work tney were undertaking. 962 BEPOET OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Naturally some months or even years would be required to make them efficient and valuable workers in the woolen industry. LENGTH OP SEBYIOB OF OPERATIVES IN THE WOOLEN INDUSTRY. Many of the operatives working in the mills at the time they were visited by the agents had been engaged in the industry for a short period only. The length of time the operatives had been employed m the industry is shown in the following summary table: Table 9.— Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and by tim£ employed in industry. Time employed in industry. Total 35,029 Total. Male. Female. Less than 3 months. 3 to 5 months 6 to 11 months 1 year 2years 3 years , 4 years 5 to 9 years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 years 30 to 39 years 40 years and over. . . 2,019 1,692 2,110 3,799 3,877 2,710 2,6()4 0,92t> 4,919 2,537 1,213 563 19,347 1,097 914 1,019 1,771 1,771 1,191 1,272 3,679 3,184 1,901 1,026 522 Per cent distribution. Total. 15,682 922 778 1,091 2,028 2,106 1,519 1,392 3,247 1,735 636 187 41 100.0 5.8 4.8 6.0 10.9 11.1 7.7 7.6 19.8 14.0 7.2 3.5 1.6 Male. Female. 100.0 5.7 4.7 5,3 9.2 9.2 6.1 6.6 19.0 16.4 9.8 5.3 2.7 100.0 5.9 5.0 6.9 12.9 13.4 9.7 8.9 20.7 ILl 4.0 L2 0.3 About one-sixth of all the employees— 5,821, or 16.6 per cent—had been engaged in the work of the woolen industry less than 1 year. Of these, 2,019, or 5.8 per cent of the total, had been in the industry less than 3 months, and 3,711, or 10.6 per cent of all employees, had been m the industry less than 6 months. Over one-half of the operatives— 18.871 persons, or 53.9 per cent- had been employed in the industry less than 5 years; about one- fifth— 6,926 persons, or 19.8 per cent— for 5 years and over but less than 10 years; and more than one-fourth— 9,232, or 26.3 per cent— for 10 years or more. Of those in the industry 10 years and over, 4,313, or 12.3 per cent of the total number, had been working for 20 years and more, 1,776 for at least 30 years, and 563 for at least 40 years. The number of persons of long service indicates that the mills have some experienced workers. The degree of permanency in the industry is considerable in view of the fact that the proportion of young men and women employed in the mdustry is large. Naturally long periods of service could not be expected in the case of persons who have only lately reached the age when they are permitted to go to work. Moreover many of the operatives are of foreign birth and have been in tliis country for only a short time, and consequently could not be in the industry for a long period unless they came from the countries Imvmg woolen and worsted mills. Undoubtedly some experienced operatives have come from other countries and entered the mills here, but their number is not large. REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON" SCHEDUIiE K. 963 On the whole, however, the mills are at a disadvantage because of the large proportion of new and inefficient workers. Much of the inefficiency is due to the fact that the industry draws largely from the foreign "born, who have difficulty in understanding the instructions given them and in many cases lack the aptitude needed to make them efficient in the work. Moreover, the large number of young men and women in the indus- try enter the mills without any experience in the work they are to do, and time is necessary for their training. In many cases the mills are compelled to rely upon these classes of workers and keep them in spite of their inefficiency. This is true especially in the places that are remote from the industrial centers. In the industrial centers there are more workers to choose from, and yet, on the other hand, there is apt to be more shifting from one mill to another. This shifting may be caused by better conditions, by liigher wa^es, by greater convenience in location, or by the presence of friends in a certain mill, one or more of these causes making one mill more desirable than another to the operative. Other reasons for shifting may be inefficiency, combativeness, or other fault in the operative wliich makes his presenca in the mill undesirable. The following table shows the number of employees grouped accord- ing to the time they had been employed in the mills in which they were working when the agents visited those mills: Table 10. — Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and by time employed in mill. Time employed in mill. Total Less than 3 months 3 to 5 months 6 to 11 months 1 year 2 years 3 years 4 years 6 to 9 years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 years 30 to 39 years 40 years and over... Total. 35,029 3,659 2,865 3,198 4,861 4,524 2.939 2,652 5,782 2,949 1,196 332 72 Male. 19,347 2,031 1,629 1,642 2,417 2,236 1,431 1,404 3.347 1,989 895 269 57 Female. Per cent distribution. 15,682 1,628 1,236 1,556 2.444 2,288 1,508 1,248 2,435 960 301 63 15 Total. 100.0 10.4 8.2 9.1 13.9 12.9 8.4 7.6 16 5 8.4 3.4 1.0 0.2 Male. 100.0 10.5 8.4 8.5 12.5 11.5 7.4 7.3 17.3 10.3 4.6 1.4 0.3 Female. 100.0 10.4 7.9 9.9 15.6 14.6 9.6 8.0 15.5 6.1 1.9 0.4 0.1 llU^ Of the 35,029 operatives, 9,722, or 27.7 per cent, had been employed less than one year in the mills from which they were reported, and 3,659 of these, or 10.4 per cent of the total number of employees, had been working in their respective mills for less than three months, while 6,524, or 18.6 per cent of the total number, had been working there less than six months. Seven-tenths — 24,698, or 70.5 per cent — of the employees had been at work in the mills in which the agents of the Tariff Board found them less than 5 years; 5,782, or 16.5 per cent, had been in the mills 5 years and over but less than 10 years; and 4,549, or 13 per cent, had been in the mills 10 years and over. 964 BBPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. A comparison of tho time of employment in the mill with the length ^^shrin"lh*^foltKb,ef '"^ '^' "P-'^"^- - *^« -^^ Time employed in mill. Total. Time employed in industry. Less than 1 year. 1 to 4 5 to 9 years. years. 10 years ancfover. Total L6^ than 1 VAfir 35,029 5,821 13. aw 6,926 9.232 1 to 4 years ].." ] 6 to 9 years " 10 years and over 9.722 14,976 5.782 4,549 5,821 2,0^5 11,045 863 1.926 4,137 1,033 2,005 1.645 4,549 PER CENT OF TOTAL. Total Less than l year 1 to 4 years S to 9 years 10 years and over PER CENT DISTRIBUTION. Total. Less than 1 year 1 to 4 years 5 to 9 years 10 years and over 100.0 27.7 42.8 16.5 13.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 15.4 84.6 100.0 12.5 27.8 59.7 100.0 11.2 21.7 17.8 49.3 Since many of the operatives had been employed in other woolen and worsted mills before entering the nulls in which thef were wo^^^ ing at the time the agents visited those mills, the proportTon f^^^^^ SThe c«Tnf r^ *'^?r^ !f'^'"^ ^" '^' ^^^ «f tir^eirthe mi Uhan m the case of tmie m the mdustry. e fiVi *'*^.^'^22 wage earners working less than one year in the mUl 5^821 were new to the mdustry, wSile 3.901 had worked in oTher mills Among the latter, 1,033 had worked in the Ldustr? for I Table 12 shows the facts in greater detail EEPORT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 965 Table 12.- ■Numher of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by time employed in mill and by tim£ employed in industry. Total. Time employed in industry. Time employed in mill. ii "5 . Sa o 1-1 a on i CO <3> • f-i • CO *^ 0) o l-l 00 $9 Total 35,029 2,019 1,602 2,110 3,799 3,877 2,710 2,664 6.926 4 Q1Q 2,537 1,213 563 Less than 3 months. 3 to 5 months 6 to 11 months 3,659 2,865 3,198 4,861 4,524 2,939 2,652 5,782 2,949 1,196 332 72 2,019 134 1,558 141 128 1,811 246 205 290 3,058 181 164 199 436 2,897 117 124 133 234 316 1,786 IM 95 116 196 241 241 1,«10 302 278 283 437 501 447 541 4,137 225 185 181 295 341 253 279 944 2,216 103 77 96 138 139 142 113 427 409 893 38 38 41 50 75 54 58 191 215 195 258 IS 13 18 17 14 1 year 2 years 3 years 1ft 4 years 21 6 to 9 years 83 10 to 19 years 109 20 to 29 years 108 30 to 39 years ■ 74 40 years and over . . . ..... 72 I 1 PER CENT. Total Less than 3 months 3 to 5 months 6 to 11 months 1 year 2years 3 years 4 years 6 to 9 years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 years 30 to 39 years 40 years and over.. 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 5.8 4.8 ao 10.9 11.1 55.2 3.7 51.4 3.9 4.5 57.6 6.7 7.2 9.1 62.9 4.9 5.7 6.2 9.0 61.0 7.7 3.2 4.3 4.2 4.8 7.0 60.8 7.6 19.8 3.7 3.3 3.6 4.0 5.3 8.2 61.8 8.3 9.7 8.8 9.0 11.1 15.2 20.4 71.6 I 14.0 7.2 6.1 6.4 5.6 6.1 7.5 8.6 10.5 16.-3 75.1 2.8 2.7 3.0 2.8 3.1 4.8 4.3 7.4 13.9 74.7 3.5 1.0 1.3 1.3 1.0 1.7 1.8 2.2 3.3 7.3 16.3 77.7 1.6 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.4 0.3 0.6 as 1.4 3.7 9.0 22.3 1004) In the greater proportion of cases the length of service in the mill is identical with tlie length of service in the industry. In the table the figures in heavy type indicate the numbers of persons who had been employed in the same mill during their entire service in the industry. The aggregate of these numbers is 22,375. Consequently of the 35,029 persons engaged in work in the woolen industry, 22,375, or 63.9 per cent, had worked only in the mills from which they were reported respectively, and 12,654, or 36.1 per cent, had worked in other mills before entering the mills in which they were employed at the time the agents visited the mills. While in most of the mills visited there seems to be no system of advancement from one class of work to another, numerous changes IQ occupation take place. The following summary table shows the distribution of the opera- tives according to the time they had been employed in the occupa- tions in which they were engaged when the mills were canvassed: 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 23 966 Table 13 EEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Time employed In occupation. Total. Male. Female. Per cent distribution. Less than 3 months 3to 5 months... ftto 11 montlis. . ','.'.'. 1 year ■ 2 years ■ * years. . . , 4 years * to 9 years 10 to 19 years 30 to 29 years 30 to 39 years .*:: 40 years and over. . . 1 8.764 2,643 3.016 4,5;J5 4,105 2,656 2,396 6,68(» 3,646 1,807 641 234 2,172 1,502 1.528 2,212 1.877 1.259 1.185 'SA30 2, 418 1.327 531 206 , 1.592 10.7 1.141 7.5 1,488 8.6 2,323 13.0 2,228 11.7 1,397 7.6 1.211 6.8 2.456 16.0 1,228 10.4 480 5.2 no 1.8 28 0.7 11.2 7.8 7.9 11.4 9.7 6.5 6.1 16.2 12.5 6.9 2.7 1.1 10.1 7.3 9.5 14.8 14.3 8.9 7.7 15.7 7.8 3.1 0.7 0.2 Over one-fourth— 9,423, or 26.8 oer cfinf— nf ih^ .• , , been at work in their rp^^no^f iV^ X ^^?'^~-^i the operatives had these, 3,764 or 10 7 ne^ctnt Jfl nT?^^^^^ ^^^ *^^^^ 1 y^«^- Of occunations 4^^^^^ monthltnd^^^^^^^^ f f^^ About two-thirds of aU the operatives— 03 1 ] -j nr «>? o .. had been in the same occunfltmr,= l»l= ♦i.'" ' r ' ' "^"^ ?<"" cent- percent, had been rthe^eCVfrom'^.Tj ^^'"^' ^'5^^' '"• 1« 18.1 per cent; had remained^t tJ™ .Tt^ a / ^^^^l ^"^^ ^'^-'S, or more^ Of the last-namXl^s 875 peL^Wd Cn •"'' '° ^'^"^ "^ taon for 30 years and over, an^ 23\';ZZti 1%^^^ K^t is S^ideS "iL co'S^cirthT^i.? '%'^'"'- ''^^^-' ^he- it length of service Tn^hekSu^ri ^^ .^ ^^^'^ '""^^^ "^^ »nd anltinxe in occupation is'^S. tSfolTow^Tabkf *^' ^ '^^ REPOKT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHBI>XTLE K. 967 Table 14.— N'amher, per cent of total, and per cent distribution of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by time employed in mill and by time employed in occupation. Total. Time employed in occupation. Time employed in mill. Less than 1 year. lto4 years. 5 to 9 years. 10 vears and over. Total 35,029 9,423 13.692 5,586 6,328 Less than 1 year 1 to 4 vears 9,722 14.976 5,782 4,549 7,560 1,475 269 119 876 11,286 1,120 410 529 977 3,458 622 757 1 238 5 to 9 years 10 years and over 935 3,398 PER CENT OF TOTAL. Total. Less than 1 year.. lto4 years ft to 9 years 10 years and over. 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 26. 8 77.8 9.8 4.6 2.6 39.1 9.0 75.4 19.4 9.0 16.0 5.4 6.5 59.8 13.7 18.1 7.8 8.3 16.2 74.7 PER CENT DISTRIBUTIOX. Total. Less than 1 year.. 1 to 4 years 8 to 9 years 10 years and over. 100.0 27.7 42.8 16.5 13.0 100.0 80.2 15.6 2.9 1.3 100.0 6.4 82.4 8.2 3.0 100.0 9.5 17.5 61.9 11.1 100.0 11.9 19.6 14.8 53.7 Of the 9,722 persons employed for less than a year in the mills in which they were working at the time the mills were visited by the agents of the board, 7,560, or 77.8 per cent, had been engaged for less than a year in the occupation at which they were then working, while the remainder — 2,162, or 22.2 per cent — had been engaged in the same occupations in other textile mills before entering the mills from which they were reported. Of those having previous experience in the occupation over one-third — 757, or 7.8 per cent of the total num- ber in the mill less than 1 year — had been doing the same kind of work for 10 years or more. Of the 14,976 employees working in the mill over one year but less than 5 years, 2,215, or 14.8 per cent, had had previous experience in the same occupation in other mills, while 1,475, or 9.8 per cent, had been engaged in other work in the same mill before beginning work in the specified occupation. :||||||P §68 BEPOBT OP TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The following table shows these data in greater detail : AABLK lo.- ■^'^^^oS^Z^^ tro«/^ma/. in the United States, 5y ume employed m mill atid by time employed in occupation. Time emploved in mill. " Time employed in occupation. 99 § 3 o 09 XJ IS m g 5 CO Total Less than 3 months 8 to 5 months fi toll months 1 year 2yeiups 3years 4 years fi to 9 years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 years 30 to 39 years 40 years and over.. 35.029 [3,764 2,643 3,659 2.865 3.198 4,861 4,524 2,939 2. a52 5.782 2,949 1,190 72 2,749 200 166 223 143 83 63 103 22 9 3 58 1,9S4 111 162 104 56 49 86 27 5 1 .a ■*.> a o to 3.016 45 55 Sf 192 2m 176 108 69 80 30 16 5 1 4,535 107 63 110 8,82ff 337 186 114 212 52 25 3 4,105 86 75 81 160 2,902 253 173 263 83 25 I 3 CO 2,656 78 44 62 89 129 195 303 84 20 9 o 2.396 75 48 47 93 90 96 1,6(M> 342 70 25 7 3 5,586 .3,646 B S 8 1,807 177 156 173 128 179 144 240 193 290 214 223 162 221 152 8,4S8 517 603 I,«99 93 227 22 45 4 9 87 65 66 102 94 86 80 286 228 es2 74 7 B CO 641 n 3 o § 29 27 31 90 37 34 23 106 102 76 1S4 12 234 la 3 9 4 8 9 10 25 49 43 28 PER CENT Total Less than 3 months. 3 to 5 months 6 to 11 months 1 year 2 years 3 years 4 years B to9 years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 vears 30 to ."^O years 40 years and over. . . 100. 10. 7 7. 5 8. 6 13.0 11.7 100.0 7£>.l 1.6 100.0 7.0 m.% 100.0 5.2 3.5 100.0 4.6 3.3 100.0 3.2 2.3 100.0 2.8 1 9 100.0 2.4 1.8 100.0 1.8 1.5 100.0 0.7 0.9 100.0 0.7 0.4 ino.o 0.9 0.3 100.0 1.2 2.9 2.4 1.9 2.2 2.6 4».6 3.4 2.5 4.9 88.4 3.3 3.9 7.4 84.1 3.7 6.3 8.6 2.6 4.3 6.5 1.4 3.7 4.6 1.0 1.8 2.8 1.3 2.1 2.1 1.5 0.9 0.3 1.4 4.2 7.6 6.8 16.0 10.4 2.1 2.1 1.5 1.7 1.9 1.5 1.9 1.9 2.9 2.0 55.9 3.3 7.4 56.8 5.2 5.9 2.8 2.4 1.7 2.1 2.7 2.1 4.2 4.8 6.0 5.6 4.9 64 7.6 8.4 59.8 17.1 7.8 6.6 5.5 4.3 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.7 5.5 5.7 8.9 57.8 19.0 13.6 12.5 5.2 2.4 2.3 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.9 3.0 4.9 7.7 52.8 22.3 9.7 1.8 0.8 o.a 0.9 0.1 1.0 0.3 0.6 0.1 0.8 0.2 1.2 0.3 0.9 0.4 1.8 0.5 3.5 1.7 6.4 3.6 40.4 8.4 16.7 45.S , In the greater proportion of cases the length of service in the miU 18 identical with tfie fength of semee in the occupation. li the table the figures m heaw type indicate the number of pereons who had been emploved m the same occupation during the entire time of the^ service m tlie mills in which they were worling. The a^ro^ate o^ ees, 22,252, or 63.5 per cent, had been m the same occupation during nl% T^r ^"^"^^ i« the mills in which they were enumerated. ^ K'htyWn"!lT^^''^M "^ !k^ occupation less than three months, 2 749 had been m the mdl less than three months and 1,015 had been J^or^t;"?' i^T "" ^*'"^'^^x!^t7o-f ^^^ ^'-^"^ ^^'^^ to five months, 166 Pr^SnvL Tn^.r^'' '^^'^ ^'' f^ K^ ^^^'' ^^^' ^ the 2,643 pereons employed m the occupation from three to ^re months, 1,984 had been in the mill and in the occupation that length of time 58 had l^en iS the occupation for that period but had been employed in somrothS mills before entering the mills frem which they were rl^rl^?™^^ wlf ^irV w""^*'*"^"^ ^^^ ^.^"^ ^^^ ^ the mills frem which t^ey were reported for longer periods than the period of their service Z ial^f ^r /^"^ ^^^ ^f^ engaged in other work in the mills for a part of the time. When the numbers for each period of employment BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD O:^ SCHEDULE K, 960 are considered in this way it is seen that over one-sixth— 6,124, or 17.5 per cent— had been employed in other occupations during a portion of their service in the mills in which they were working and about one- £fj^h— 6 653, or 19 per cent — had been engaged in similar work in other textile mills before entering the mills from which they were The following table shows the operatives, distributed according to time in the industry and time in the occupation: T\BLE 16 —Number, per cent of total, and per cent distribution of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by time employed in industry and by time employed in occupation. Time employed in industry. Total. Less than 1 year 1 to 4 years 6 to 9 years 10 years and over Total. 35,029 5,821 13,050 6,926 9,232 Time employed in occupation. Less than 1 year. lto4 years. 5to9 years. 9,423 13,692 5,586 5.651 2,456 755 561 71 38 10.257 147 2,029 3,950 1,335 1,451 10 years and over. 6,328 61 190 192 5,885 PER CENT OF TOTAL. Total Less than 1 1 to 4 years 6 to 9 years 100.0 26.8 39.1 16.0 18.1 vpftr 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 97.1 18.8 10.9 6.1 1.2 78.6 29.3 14.5 0.7 1.1 57.0 15.7 LO L5 2.8 d over 63.7 TER CENT DISTRIBUTION. Total Less than 1 1 to 4 years 6 to 9 years 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 vear 16.6 37.3 19.8 26.3 60.0 26.1 8.0 5.9 0.5 74.9 14.8 9.8 0.7 2.6 70.7 26.0 LO 3.0 3.0 fi ovpr --- 93.0 Of the 5,821 wage earners in the industry less than one year, 5,651, or 97.1 per cent, had been engaged less than a year in the specified occupation in the woolen industry, and 170, or 2.9 per cent, had been engaged in the same occupation in some other textile industry. Of the 13,050 operatives who had worked in the industry from one to four years, 10,257, or 78.6 per cent, had been in the same occupa- tion in the woolen industry for that length of time; 2,456, or 18.8 per cent, had been in some other occupation in the same mill for a portion of the time; and 337, or 2.6 per cent, had been engaged in the occupation in some other textile industry before entering the service of the woolen and worsted mills. Three-fifths— 5,651, or 60 per cent— of the operatives in one occu- pation less than a year had been in the industry less than a year also. The remainder, 3,772, or 40 per cent, had been in the industry for longer periods, being engaged in other work for a portion of the time. HTlJ B£POBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 971 More detailed statistics are given in the following table : Table 17.— Nwnber of em]^htjees in woolm and worsted mills in the United States, by time employed in industry and by titne employed in occupation. Time employed in industry. o Total 35,029 Less than 3 months. 3 to 5 months 6 to 11 montlu 1 year 2 years 3years 4years 5to9years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 years 30 to .39 years 40 years and orer... 2,019 l.Wi 2.110 3,799 3,877 2,710 2,664 6,926 4.919 2.537 1,213 5(>3 Time employed in occupation. eo Co r^ 2 a o a 5 CO 3,764 t,M2 182 221 315 263 145 147 319 144 67 18 11 2.643 14 182 253 202 125 94 201 78 28 9 5 § 3 O >* w 3,016 5 9 1,614 339 281 171 121 235 115 58 25 13 4.535 6 9 5 2,761 516 296 198 434 171 90 34 15 4,105 7 4 7 18 2,515 359 302 525 239 94 27 8 CO B 2,650 11 3 9 6 7 1,610 286 486 215 79 27 17 2,396 5 3 2 12 10 18 1,443 584 215 61 28 15 5,586 10 11 17 36 38 39 34 3,fNiO 1,067 259 86 39 § s o s 3,646 13 12 10 36 20 26 25 UY7 2,&48 582 198 69 1,807 4 4 7 13 16 11 12 54 85 1,188 341 77 « S 641 -3 C a > o 234 9 5 9 2 25 31 31 404 117 1 1 4 1 6 11 15 16 r$7 PER CENT. Total Less than 3 months 3 to 5 months. 6 to 11 months lyear 2 years 3 years 4years 5 to 9 years 10 to 19 years 20 to 29 years 30 to 39 years 40 years and orer.. loao 10.7 7.5 8.6 13.0 11.7 7.6 6.8 10.0 10.4 5.2 1.8 loao 96.2 .7 .3 .3 .3 .5 .3 .5 .6 .2 100.0 10.8 85.8 .6 .5 .2 .2 .2 .7 .7 .2 .2 100.0 ia5 8.6 77.9 .2 .3 .4 .1 .8 .5 • 3 .3 100.0 8.3 6.7 8.9 72.7 .5 .2 .3 .9 1.0 .3 .2 100.0 6.8 5.2 7.2 13.3 •4.9 .2 .3 1.0 .5 .4 .1 100.0 6.4 4.6 6.3 10.9 13.3 55.3 .7 1.4 1.0 .4 .3 100.0 6.5 3.5 46 7.4 11.3 10.7 54.8 1.3 .9 .5 .1 100.0 4.6 2.9 3.4 6.3 7.6 7.0 8.4 67.0 1.5 .8 .4 100.0 2.9 l.G 2.3 3.5 4.9 4.4 4.4 21.7 51.8 1.7 .6 100.0 2.2 1.1 2.3 3.6 3.7 3.1 2.4 10.2 23.0 46.6 1.2 loao 1.5 .8 2.1 2.8 2.2 2.2 2.3 7.1 16.3 28.1 83.3 100.0 2.0 .9 2.3 2.7 1.4 3.0 2.7 0.8 12.2 13.7 20. S 0.7 .1 .1 0) '".'i .2 .6 1.3 31.4 » Less than one-tenth of I per cent. Over three-fifths— 21 ,529, the aggregate of the figures in heavy type, or 61.5 per cent — of the persons engaged m the woolen industry worked in the same occupation during the entire time of their work in the mills, and over one- third— 12,513, or 35.7 per cent — had started in same other occupation than the one in which they were engaged at the time they were reported. Tlie remainder — 987, or 2.8 per cent — had been engaged in similar work in some other textile industry, and consequently were more or less expe- rienced in the line of work before they entered the woolen and worsted mills. For example, some of these employees had been weavers in cotton or silk mills before becoming weavers in woolen mills. Table 5 shows tliat 2,967 operatives had been engaged in other textile industries before they entered into the work of the woolen and worsted mills. Of that number, only 987 persons, or about one- third of the operatives, had had training in the kind of work they were doing in the woolen and worsted milk . COUNTRY OP BIRTH AND LENGTH OF SERVICE. A study of the length of service in the industry in connection with the nationality of the operatives reveals some interesting facts. The following summary tables show the proportions of native and foreign bom distributed according to the duration of their employment in the industry, in the mill, and in the occupation in which they were employed at the time the mills were canvassed: Table 18. — Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by country of birth and by time in industry. Total niun- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Time employed in industry. Less than 1 year. 1 to 4 years. 5 to 9 years. 10 years and over. Country of birth. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Pe? cent of total num- ber. Total 35,029 100.0 5,821 1G.6 13,050 37.3 6,926 19.8 9,232 2a3 United States 12,799 22,230 36.5 63.5 2,190 3.G31 6.2 10.4 4,337 8,713 12.4 24.9 2,650 4,276 7.6 12.2 3,622 5,610 10.3 Foreign countrica 16.0 Italy and ea-stern and southesvstern Europe Other foreign countries 12.297 9,933 35.1 28.4 2,690 941 7.7 2.7 6,304 2,409 18.0 6.8 2.281 1,995 6.5 5.7 1,022 4,588 2.9 13. L Table 19. — Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by country of birth and by time in mill. , r Total num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Time employed in mill. Lefts than 1 year. 1 to 4 years. 5 to 9 years. 10 years and over. Country of birth. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Nnm- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Nu^□^- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Total 35,029 100.0 9,722 27.7 14,976 42.8 5.782 16.5 4.549 1S.fl United States 12, 799 22.230 36.5 63.5 3,429 6.29a 9.8 17.9 4,968 10,008 14.2 28.6 2,328 8,454 6.6 9.9 2.074 2.475 .■> Q Foreign countries 7 1 Italy and eastern and southeastern Europe Other foreign countries 12.297 9,933 35.1 28.4 4,117 2,176 11.7 6.2 6.335 3,673 18.1 10.5 1.384 2,070 3.9 5.9 461 2,014 1.3 5.8 Table 21.- BEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. -Xumber of employees in imolen and worsted mills in the United States, hy country of birth and by time in occupation. Total num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Time employed in occupation. Country of birth. Less than 1 year. 1 to 4 years. 5 to 9 years. 10 years and over. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of totAl num- ber. Num- ber. Per cent of total num> ber. Total 35,029 100.0 9,423 26.8 13,692 39.1 5,586 16.0 6,328 18.1 Vnited States 12.799 22,230 36.6 63.5 3.486 5.937 10.0 16.8 4,633 9,059 13.2 25.9 2,216 3,370 6.3 9.6 2,464 3,864 7.0 11.1 Foreign countries Italy and eastern and , southeastern Europe .. . . Other foreign countries. . . . 12,297 9,933 35.1 28.4 4.104 1,833 11.6 5.2 6,049 3,010 17.3 8.6 1,510 1,860 4.3 5.3 634 3,230 1.9 9.2 Over one-third — 12,297, or 35.1 per cent — of the operatives in the woolen industry were natives of Italy and eastern and southeastern Europe. These people are among tlie later immigrants as a rule. The proportions of these operatives in the longer periods of service are comparatively small and the proportions in the woolen industry for the snorter periods — less than 1 year, 1 year, 2 years, 3 years, and 4 years— are comparatively large, the latter being larger than the corresponding proportions for any other country. These facts are shown in Table 21 presenting the number and percentage of opera- tives of the leading nationalities by the duration of their employment. Table 21. — Number and percentage of employees in woolen and icorsted mills in the United States, by country of birth ancl by time employed in industry. Country of birth. Total. Total ....*. United States Canada England France Germany Ireland, Scotland, and Wales Italy Norway, Sweden, and Demnarlt Eastern and southeastern Europe Other countries 35,029 Time employed in industry. Less than 1 year. 5.821 1 year. ' 2 years. 3,799 2,102 2,799 398 1,474 1,628 4,097 140 8,200 1,392 2,190 250 211 23 110 113 943 16 1,747 218 1,292 183 125 17 100 67 537 6 1,341 131 3,877 1,216 178 151 24 87 73 546 g 1,420 174 3 years. 2,710 998 133 134 16 66 69 358 II SOW 116 4 years. 2,664 831 137 120 21 53 66 518 7 775 136 5 to 9 years. 6,926 2,650 533 451 82 217 268 816 25 1,465 419 10 years and over. 9,232 3,622 688 1,607 215 841 972 379 67 643 198 PER CENT. Total United States Canada England France Germany Ireland, Scotland, and Wales Italy... Norway, Sweden, and Denmark . . Eastern and southeastern Europe. Other countries 100.0 16.6 10.9 11.1 7.7 7.6 19.8 100.0 17.1 10.1 9.5 7.8 6.6 20.7 100.0 11.9 8.7 8.5 6.3 6.6 25.4 100.0 7.5 4.5 5.4 4.8 4.3 16.1 100.0 5.8 4.3 6.0 4.0 6.3 20.6 100.0 7.5 6.8 5.9 4.5 3.6 14.7 100.0 6.9 4.1 4.5 4.2 4.1 16.6 100.0 23.0 13.1 13.3 8.7 12.7 19.9 100.0 11.4 4.3 6.7 7.8 5.0 17.9 100.0 21.3 16.3 17.3 9.9 9.5 17.9 100.0 15.6 9.4 12.6 8.3 9.8 30.1 26.3 28.3 32.7 67.4 64.0 67.0 59.7 9.3 47.9 7.8 14.3 ■ti^cai Laboratory Keot Hall BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE *Tfif"™*'*^ ^J^^Slty New Vork Over one- half of aU the employees who were natives of Great Britain, Ireland, Germany, and France had been engaged in the woolen and worsted industry for at least 10 years. Over one-half of the Canadians and Scandinavians and almost one-half of the native born had served at least 5 years. Table 22. — Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by country of birth and by time employed in mill. Total. Time en 1 ployed 1 in mill. Country of birth. Less than 1 year. 1 year. 2 years. 3 years. 4 years. 5to9 years. 10 years and over. Total 35,029 9,722 4,861 4,524 2,939 2,052 5,782 4,540 United states 12,799 2,102 2,799 398 1,474 1,628 4,097 140 8,200 1,392 3.429 478 607 115 261 264 1,464 25 2,653 426 1,582 229 291 59 188 143 614 12 1,557 186 1,447 231 279 66 162 143 575 10 1,4.35 176 1,092 191 205 43 106 101 349 10 728 114 847 127 234 39 89 116 433 11 644 112 2,328 498 562 63 282 329 510 28 874 308 2,074 Canada 348 England 621 France 13 Germany 386 Ireland, 'Scotland, and Wales 532 Italy 152 Norway, Sweden, and Denmark Eastern and southeastern Europe. .: . . . Othpr fioimtnVs . . . 44 309 70 PER CENT. Total United States Canada England France Germany Ireland, Scotland, and Wales Italy Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. Eastern and southeastern Europ. Other countries 109.0 27.7 13.9 12.9 8.4 7.6 16.5 100.0 26.8 12.4 11.3 8.5 6.6 18.2 100.0 22.7 10.9 11.0 9.1 6.0 23.7 100.0 21.7 10.4 10.0 7.3 8.3 20.1 100.0 28.9 14.8 16.6 10.8 9.8 15.8 100.0 17.7 12.8 11.0 7.2 6.0 19.1 100.0 16.2 8.8 8.8 6.2 7.1 20.2 100.0 35.7 15.0 14.0 8.5 10.6 12.5 100.0 17.9 8.6 7.1 7.1 7.9 20.0 100.0 32.3 19.0 17.5 8.9 7-8 10.7 100.0 30.6 1.3.4 12.6 8.2 8.1 22.1 13.0 10.2 16.6 22.2 3.3 26.2 32.7 3.7 31.4 3.8 5.0 The proportions in their respective mills for at least 10 years were larger than the average in the case of Ireland, Scotland, and Wales; Norway, Sweden, and Denmark; Germany; England; Canada; and the United States. ** i 3r I 'at BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 23. — Number and percentage of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, % country of birth anrf by time employed in occupation . Country of blrtli. Total United States Canada England France Germany Ireland, Scotland, and Wales Italy Norwny, Sweden, and Denmark Eastern and southeastern Europe Other countries Total. a5,029 Time employed in occupation. Less than 1 year. 9,423 12,799 2, 102 2,799 398 1,474 1,028 4,097 140 8,200 1,392 1 year. 4,535 3,486 1,514 443 220 635 235 46 23 187 168 242 116 l,5t.2 580 24 12 2,542 1,492 356 156 2 years. 4,105 1,3.59 192 205 23 124 117 525 8 1,389 163 3 years. 4 years 2,656 962 127 166 26 95 99 354 13 ms 119 2,396 798 123 160 17 63 106 374 8 630 117 5 to 9 years. 5,586 2,216 469 448 65 265 244 487 24 1,023 10 years and over. 6,328 2,464 519 1,050 198 572 704 205 51 429 136 PER CENT. Total. 100.0 26.8 United States loo. Canada j loo. o 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 England France Germany Ireland.'Scotland, and Wales Italy Norway, Sweden, and Denmark Eastern and southeastern Europe Other coimtries 27.3 21.1 19.1 11.6 12.7 14.9 38.1 17.2 31.0 2.5.0 13.0 11.7 11.8 ia9 &4 5.8 11.4 7.1 14 4 18.2 11.2 40.6 9.1 7.3 5.8 8.4 7.2 12.8 5.7 1(1.9 11.7 7.6 6.8 7.5 6.0 6.0 6.5 6.4 6.1 8.7 9.3 8.5 8.5 6.2 5.9 5.7 4.3 4.3 6.5 9.1 5.7 7.7 8.4 16.0 17.3 22.3 16. 16.3 18.0 15.0 11.9 17.2 12.5 24:8 18.1 19.3 24 7 37.5 49.7 38.8 43.2 5.0 36.4 5.2 9.8 Almost one-half--198, or 40.7 per cent— of the French operatives had been engaged in the same occupation for at least 10 years. More than one-third of the natives of Great Britain and Ireland, of the Germans, and of the Scandinavians had remained in their respective occupations for 10 yeai-s or longer. On tjie other hand, over one-third of the Italians and almost one- third of the operatives from eastern and southeastern Europe had been engaged m their respective occupations for less than a year. SEX AND LENGTH OF SERVICE. The following table is a summary showing the number and per- centage of males and of females employed in the specified mills, bv the duration of their employment in the mill, in the occupation, and m the mdustry: / BEPOET OF TAKIFF BOABD OIT SCHEDULE K. 975 TA.BLE 24. — Number^ per cent distribution^ and per cent of total for employees in ivoolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and by time in mill, time m occupation^ and time in industry. Terlod. Total 35,029 By time in milL By time in occupa- tion. Total. Less than 1 year.. 1 to 4 years fi to 9 years 10 years and over. 9,722 14,976 5,782 4,549 Males. 19.347 5,302 7,488 3,347 3,210 Fe- males. 15,682 4,420 7,488 2,435 1,339 Total. 35,029 9,423 13,692 5,586 6,328 Males. 19,347 5,202 6,533 3,130 4,482 Fe- males. By time in industry. Total. Males. 15,682 35,029 19,347 Fe- males. 15,682 4,221 I 5,821 7,159 13,050 2,4.=V6 I 6,926 3,030 6,005 3,679 1,846 9,232 6,633 2,791 7,045 3,247 2,599 PER CENT DISTRIBUTION. Total Less than 1 year. 1 to 4 years 6 to 9 years 10 years and over 100.0 27.7 42.8 16.5 13.0 100.0 27.4 38.7 17.3 16.6 100.0 100.0 100.0 28.2 47.8 15.5 8.5 26.8 39.1 16.0 18.1 26.9 33.8 16.2 23.1 100.0 100.0 100.0 26.9 45.6 15.7 11.8 16.6 37.3 19.8 26.3 15.7 31.0 19.0 343 100.0 17.8 44.9 20.7 16.8 PER CENT OP TOTAL. Total Less than 1 year. 1 to 4 years 5 to 9 years 10 years and over 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 55.2 44.8 52.1 46.0 53.1 71.8 47.9 54.0 46.9 28.2 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 55.2 545 50.0 57.9 70.6 44.8 45.5 50.0 42.1 29.4 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 55.2 443 55.2 47.7 56.0 70.8 448 52.3 44.0 29.2 The proportion of females was greater in the shorter periods of employment in the mill, in the occupation, and in the industry. For the period of less than five years the percentages for females were 76 for time in the mill, 72.5 for time in the occupation, and 62.7 for time in the industir, while the corresponding percentages for males were 66.1, 60.7, and 46.7. In the case of employment in the occupation for a period less than a year the proportion of females was equal to that of males (26.9 per cent). The proportion of males was about twice as large for the period of service lasting 10 years or more, the percentages being 16.6 for time in the mill, 23.1 for time in the occupation, and 34.3 for time in the industry, while the corresponding percentages for females were 8.5 11.8, and 16.6. The total number of operatives serving for at least 10 years was 4,549 for time in the mill, 6,328 for time in the occupa- tion, and 9,232 for time in the industry. The fact that the females usually leave the industry when they marry may account in part for the difference in the length of their service as compared with that of the males. Another cause contributmg to this difference may be the fact that frequently the men of the family immigrated to this country before the women came, and consequently had an earher start in the industry. The following tables show for each sex the more detailed data con- cerning the nationahty of operatives and the length of their service 976 BEPOET OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TAEIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 977 in the industry, in the mill, and in the occupation in which they were employed at the time the agents of the board visited the mills in which they were working: Table 2b.— Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by MX and country of birth and by time employed in industry. Total. 1 Time employed in industry. Sex and country of birth. ^- - - Less thanl year. 1 year. 2 years. 3 years 4 years 6 to 9 ' years. 10 years and over. Total 35,029 6,821 3,799 3,877 2,710 2,664 6,926 9,232 Male 19,347 15,682 3,030 2.791 1,771 2,028 1,771 2,106 1,191 1.519 1,272 1.392 3.679 3,247 6,633 Female United States 12,799 2,190 1.292 1,216 CrlfO 831 2,650 3,622 Male 6.140 6,659 1.039 1.151 539 753 493 723 347 651 299 632 1,087 1,563 2,336 1,286 Female Canada 2,102 250 183 178 133 137 633 688 Male 1,178 924 131 119 101 82 87 91 59 74 68 69 268 266 464 224 Female England 2,799 211 125 151 134 120 451 1,607 Male 1.980 819 129 82 69 56 85 66 81 53 63 67 286 165 1,267 340 Female France 398 23 17 24 16 21 82 215 Mate 250 148 16 7 7 10 11 13 9 7 7 14 38 44 162 53 Female Germany 1,474 110 100 87 66 53 217 841 Male 1.147 327 63 47 67 33 54 33 41 26 36 17 160 67 736 106 Female Ireland, Scotland, and Wales 1,628 113 67 73 69 66 268 972 Male 1,031 507 73 40 40 27 48 25 36 33 41 25 148 120 645 327 Female Italy 4,097 943 537 546 358 1 518 816 379 Male 2.486 1,611 594 349 305 232 307 239 173 186 264 254 527 289 316 63 Female Norway, Sweden, and Denmark 140 16 6 8| 11 7 26 67 Male , 74 66 5 11 1 5 4 4 2 9 3 4 13 12 46 21 Female Eastern and southeastern Europe 8,200 1,747 1.341 1,420 809 775 1,465 643 Male 4,170 4,030 834 913 550 791 580 840 372 437 411 364 910 665 513 130 Female Other countries 1,392 218 131 174 116 136 419 198 Male 891 501 146 72 92 39 102 72 71 45 80 56 262 167 148 50 Female , Table 26.- - Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States , by sex and country of birth and by time employed in mill. Total. Time employed in mill. Sex and country of birth. Lpas than 1 year. 1 year. 2 years. 3 years 4 years 5 to 9 years. 10 years and over. Total 35,029 9,722 4,861 4,524 2,9,19 2,652 5,782 4j O'SqI Male 19,347 15,682 5,302 4,420 2,417 2,444 2.236 2,288 1.431 1,508 1.404 1,248 3,347 2,435 3,210 1,339 Female United States 12,799 3,429 1.582 1,447 1,092 847 2,328 2,074 Male. 6,140 6,669 1,725 1.704 698 884 603 844 432 660 346 501 1,059 1.269 1,277 797 Female Canada 2,102 478 229 231 191 127 498 1 348 Male 1,178 924 262 216 123 106 122 109 92 99 70 57 277 221 232 Female 116 England 2,799 607 291 279 205 234 562 621 Male 1,980 819 374 233 192 99 181 98 144 61 153 81 411 151 525 Female France 398 115 59 GO 43 39 63 13 Male 2.50 148 77 38 38 21 39 27 28 15 22 17 35 28 11 ' 2 Female Germany 1,474 201 188 162 106 89 282 386 Male 1,147 327 177 84 135 53 118 44 72 34 72 17 229 53 344 42 Female Ireland, Scotland, and Wales 1,628 264 143 143 101 116 329 532 Male 1,031 507 155 109 90 53 89 54 63 38 73 43 199 130 362 170 Female Italy 4,097 1,464 614 575 349 433 510 152 Male 2.486 1,611 941 523 341 273 328 247 173 176 236 197 336 174 131 21 Female Norway, Sweden, and Denmark 140 25 12 10 10 11 28 44 Male 74 66 7 18 4 8 5 5 3 7 6 6 16 12 33 11 Female Eastern and southeastern Europe 8,200 2,653 1,557 1,4:35 728 644 874 309 Male 4.170 4,030 1,301 1,352 670 887 640 789 361 367 3(>5 279 585 289 242 67 Female Other countries 1,392 426 186 176 114 112 308 70 Male 891 501 283 143 126 60 105 71 63 51 61 51 200 108 53 17 Female 978 BEPORT OF TABUT BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 27. ^Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States bu sex and county of birth and by time employed in occupation, ' Total. Time employed in occupation. Bex and country of birth. Less than 1 year. 1 year. 2 years. 3 years. 4 years 5 to 9 years. 10 years and over. Total 35,029 9,423 4..!i35 4,105 2,656 2,396 6,586 6,328 Male Female 19,347 15.682 5.202 4,221 2.212 2.323 1,877 2,228 1,259 1,397 1,185 1,211 3,130 2,456 4, 482 1,840 United States 12.799 3,486 1,514 1,359 962 798 2,216 2,4M Male 6,140 6,659 1,723 1,763 643 871 517 842 367 695 300 498 1,008 1,206 1,582 Femait' 882 Canada 2,102 443 229 192 127 123 46S 519 Male , 1,178 024 250 193 105 124 86 106 54 73 61 62 267 2QS Female 355 164 England 2,799 535 235 205 166 160 448 1,050 Male 1,980 819 360 175 157 78 126 79 121 45 103 67 308 140 Female , 805 245 Fiance 398 46 23 23 26 17 65 198 Male 250 148 28 IS 12 11 11 12 11 15 6 11 32 33 Female 150 48 Germany. 1,474 187 168 124 95 63 265 572 Male 1,147 327 121 66 117 51 90 34 67 28 47 16 205 60 Female 500 72 Ireland, Scotland, and Wales 1.028 242 116 117 99 106 244 701 Male 1,031 697 150 92 84 32 76 41 58 41 65 41 152 92 Female 446 258 Italy 4,097 1,562 590 525 354 374 487 205 Male 2,486 1,611 981 581 343 247 300 225 175 179 196 178 319 168 Female 172 33 Norway, Sweden, and Denmark 110 24 12 8 13 8 24 61 Male 74 66 9 15 3 9 4 4 6 7 3 6 15 9 Female 34 17 Eastern and southeastern Europe 8,200 2,542 1.492 1.389 695 630 1,023 429 Male 4,170 4,030 1,331 1,211 632 860 673 816 331 312 288 624 399 Female 337 92 Other cotmtries 1,392 356 156 163 119 117 345 136 Male 891 501 249 107 116 40 M 60 69 50 62 55 200 146 Female 101 1 1 36 REPORT OE TARIFF BOARD OS SCHEDULE K. 979 Table 28.— Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and time employed in mill and by time employed in industry. Total. Time employed in industry. Sex and time em- ployed in mill. Hi eo as § 3 to 5 months. • § a o o 00 i i OS S .—1 o +^ o 20 to 29 years. o CO 40 years and over. Total 35,029 2,019 2, 110 3, 799 3, 877 2,710 2,664 6,926 4,919 2,537 1,213 1 5G3 Male Female... 19,347 15,682 1,097 922 914 778 1.019 1,091 1,771 2,028 1,771 2,106 1.191 1,519 1,272 1,392 3,679 3,247 3,184 1,735 1,901 636 1,026 187 522 41 Less than 3 months. 3,659 2,019 134 141 246 181 117 135 302 225 103 38 18 Male 2,031 1,G28 1,097 922 73 61 79 62 124 122 93 88 61 56 70 65 165 137 145 80 80 23 31 7 13 6 Female 3 to 5 months 2,865 1,558 128 205 164 124 95 278 185 77 38 13 Male 1,629 1,236 841 717 63 65 119 86 82 82 73 51 53 42 149 129 138 47 62 15 36 2 13 Female ito 11 months 3,198 1,841 290 199 133 116 283 181 96 41 18 Male 1,642 1.556 877 964 142 148 101 98 63 70 60 56 151 132 117 64 77 19 37 4 17 1 Female 1 year 4,861 3,058 436 2.34 196 437 295 138 50 17 Male 2.417 2,444 1,386 1,672 198 238 115 119 91 105 251 186 198 97 111 27 50 17 1 Female t..::;: 2 years 4,524 2,897 316 241 501 341 139 7S ''^ i-« Male 2,236 2,288 1.297 1,600 133 115 183 126 277 224 224 117 107 32 69 6 14 Female 8 years 2,939 1,786 241 447 253 142 54 I 16 Male 1,431 1,508 746 1,040 97 144 232 215 184 69 108 34 49 6 15 1 Female ■ 1 4years 2,652 1 1,640 541 279 113 58 21 Male 1.404 1,248 786 854 285 256 182 97 84 29 48 10 19 2 Female 1 1 6 to 9 years.. 5,782 1 1 4,137 944 ^97 191 j 83 1 Male 3,347 2,435 I 2,109 1,968 627 317 324 103 151 40 76 7 Female 1 10 to 19 years 2,949 1 2,216 409 215 109 1 Male 1,989 960 1,309 847 333 76 186 29 101 8 Female - 20 to 29 years 1,196 893 195 108 1 Male 895 301 ■ — 615 278 173 22 107 1 Female 30 to 39 years 332 258 74 1 Male 269 63 • 196 62 73 1 Female 40 years and over. . . 72 72 Male 57 15 . H7 Female 15 1 " 1 980 REPORT OF TAHIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 981 Table 29.—N'umher of employees in woolen avid tmrsted mills in the United States bv ux and time employed in mill and hy time employed in occupatimi. * Total .35,029 Time employed in occupation. Sex and time em- ployed In mill. Less than 3 months. • 3 1 s n X 1 B •-• s N CO ■V » s ,-t B o f-l • s 8 • 3 40 years and over. Total 3,764 2,643 3,016 4,535 4,105 2.656 2,396 5,586 3,646 1,807 641 234 Male Female. . . 19.347 .15,682 2,172 1,592 1,602 1,141 1,528 1,488 2,212 2,323 1.877 2,228 1.259 1,397 1,185 1,211 75 3,130 2.456 177 2,418 1,228 156 1,327 480 5.31 110 206 28 Less than 3 months. 3,659 2, 749 58 45 107 86 78 87 29 12 Male Female 2.0,31 1,628 1.529 1.220 22 36 26 19 44 63 41 45 40 38 40 35 92 85 100 56 66 21 23 6 8 4 3 to 5 months 2,865 200 1,984 55 63 75 44 48 173 128 65 27 3 Male 1,029 1,236 123 77 1.094 890 35 20 30 33 30 45 28 16 20 28 88 85 98 30 54 11 26 1 Female 3 6 to 11 months 3,198 106 111 2,192 110 81 02 47 179 144 66 31 9 Male 1,642 1,556 100 66 74 37 1,048 1,144 40 70 38 43 30 32 21 26 93 91 88 109 35 53 13 102 29 2 Female 9 lyear 4,861 223 102 239 3,326 1iH\ 240 193 30 IW OV 4 Male 2.417 2,444 128 95 90 72 131 108 1.541 1,785 337 57 103 2,902 33 56 44 49 1.34 106 290 130 57 214 91 11 94 28 2 Female 4 31 years 4,524 i 143 104 176 129 90 37 8 Male Female 2.236 2.288 96 47 67 37 56 95 81 189 148 i,2ris 1.637 49 80 38 52 ISO 110 223 144 70 71 23 34 3 8 3 years 2,939 83 108 186 253 1,643 96 162 86 34 9 Male Female 1,4.31 1,508 55 28 .34 22 58 50 99 87 110 143 701 942 26 70 120 103 119 43 71 15 29 5 9 i years 2,652 m 49 69 114 173 195 1,500 224 152 80 23 10 Male Female 1.404 1,248 46 17 34 15 86 ,39 30 80 76 38 212 92 81 99 96 729 771 104 120 103 49 56 24 17 6 9 1 5 to 9 years 5, 782 - 103 263 303 342 3,458 517 286 106 26 Mate Female 3.347 2,435 72 31 62 24 56 24 130 82 160 103 187 116 171 171 1.870 1,588 334 183 195 91 89 17 21 5 10 to 19 years 2,949 22 27 30 52 83 84 70 503 1,099 228 102 49 Male Female' 1,989 960 14 8 19 8 24 6 39 13 20 08 16 64 6 355 148 1,044 655 174 54 81 21 44 5 20 to 29 years 1,196 9 5 16 25 25 20 25 93 227 632 76 ■' 43 Male Female 895 301 7 2 5 10 6 21 4 19 6 16 4 22 3 73 20 185 42 432 200 63 13 42 1 30 to 39 years 332 3 1 5 3 1 9 7 22 45 74 134 28 Male Female 209 03 2 1 . 1 5 3 . "i* 3 . 8 1 . 7 19 3 37 8 58 16 102 32 27 1 40 years and over... 72 1. 1 1 . 1 . 3 4 9 7 12 1 33 Mate 57 . 15 . 2 . 1 . 3 4 9 6 1 10 2 Female 22 11 t r 1 Table 30. — Number of employees in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and time employed in industry and by tim^ employed in occupation. Total. Time employed in occupation. « Bex and time em- ployed in industry. o h4 1 § a o CO 1 d o a ,-< T-t 3 • g. « o CO i 1 at 3 r-i 3 o 10 3 8 • 3 5 Total 35,029 3,764 2,643 .3,016 4,535 4,105 2,656 2,396 5,586 3,646 1,807 641 234 Male 19,347 15,682 2,172 1,592 1,502 1,141 1,528 1,488 2,212 2,323 1,877 2,228 1,259 1,397 1,185 1,211 3,130 2,456 2,418 1,228 1,327 480 631 110 206 Female 28 Less than 3 months. 2,019 1,942 14 5 6 7 11 5 10 13 4 2 Male 1,097 922 1,042 900 10 4 3 2 2 4 5 2 8 3 3 2 7 3 12 1 4 1 Female 1 3 to 5 months 1,692 182 1,452 9 9 4 3 3 11 12 4 3 Male 914 778 110 72 761 691 6 3 5 4 2 2 3 2 1 7 4 11 1 4 3 Female Uto 11 months 2,110 221 182 1,644 5 7 9 2 17 10 7 5 1 Male 1,019 1,091 116 105 103 79 746 898 4 1 6 1 9 1 1 13 4 9 1 6 1 6 1 Female 1 vear 3,799 315 253 339 2,761 18 6 12 36 36 13 9 1 Male 1,771 2,028 181 134 148 105 172 167 1,170 1,591 9 9 2 4 9 3 26 10 33 3 12 1 8 1 1 Female ..**>• 2 years 3,877 263 202 281 516 2,515 7 10 38 20 16 6 4 Male 1,771 2,106 165 98 120 82 150 131 245 271 1,014 1,501 4 3 8 2 27 11 17 3 12 4 5 4 Female 3 years 2,710 145 125 171 296 359 1,510 18 39 26 11 9 1 Male 1,191 1,519 87 68 77 48 87 84 163 133 129 230 571 939 9 9 29 10 20 6 11 7 2 1 Female 4 years 2,664 147 94 121 198 302 286 1,443 34 25 12 2 Male 1,272 1,392 87 60 62 32 66 55 107 91 143 159 137 149 617 826 22 12 19 6 10 2 2 Fpniale 6 to 9 years 6,926 319 201 235 434 525 486 584 3,950 107 54 25 6 Male 3,679 3,247 225 94 131 70 136 99 270 164 292 233 255 231 289 295 1,937 2,013 74 33 42 12 22 3 6 Female 10 tol9 5'ears 4,919 144 78 115 171 239 215 215 1,067 2,548 85 31 11 Male 3,184 1,735 101 43 64 24 83 32 123 48 172 67 168 47 157 68 732 335 1,504 1,044 56 29 24 7 10 Female 1 20 to 29 years 2,537 57 28 58 90 94 79 61 259 582 1,183 31 15 Male 1,901 636 34 23 25 3 46 12 77 13 73 21 63 16 53 8 215 44 484 98 795 388 23 8 13 Female 2 30 to 39 years ... 1,213 18 9 25 34 27 27 28 86 198 341 404 16 Male 1,026 187 15 3 6 3 21 4 31 3 25 2 22 5 23 5 76 10 172 26 301 40 319 85 15 Female 1 40 years and over. . . 563 11 5 13 15 8 17 15 39 69 77 117 177 Male 522 41 9 2 5 12 1 15 7 1 17 14 1 39 63 6 74 3 113 4 154 Female 23 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 24 982 EEPOET OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. INDUSTRIAL DEPRESSIONS AND UNEMPLOYMENT. Many of the woolen and worsted mills are located in small vil- lages aiKl towns remote from large cities or large centers in which other mdustries are carried on. In such localities there is more steadiness and permanence of employment in the miUs than in the larger centers In importaiit worsted textile centers such as Lawrence Providence, the Pa^saic-Paterson district, and Philadelphia, there ZLfr^' mdustnes offering incentives for change of occupation and great difliculty is experienced m building up an efficient force of per- manent employees such as obtain in the competitive centers of the industry m England, Germany, and France. When depressions in tHe mdustry m mdustnal centers throw wage-earners out of emplov- ment these persons seek work elsewhere and in other industries Consequently when resumption of production takes place, the securinc^ of the required number of employees is a task of much difficultv. • .u y 1 .^ ^RP^y?ng ^or work have had no previous experience m the industry and after a few days' trial either quit of their own rpTJil «L^!f ed on account of incompetency. A number remam and develop mto efficient employees Some of the youn^ women tire of being ''miU hands" andleave to become clerks m department stores or to enter business houses in various capacities. There are male skiUed workers, especially weavers and mule spinners, who go from one textHe center to another, remain- ing a short time m a miff. Whatever the causes may be, the weekly pay rolls bear evidence of the constant changes, resulting in expan- sion and contraction m the number of persons employed. This condi- tion IS weU illustrated by the foUowing figures obtained from the records of worsted mills : Year. Persons employed. Year. Persons employed. Jan. 1. Dec. 31. Difference. Jan. 1. Dec. 31. Difference. 1907. 5,280 3,974 3,974 4,956 1,306 982 1 1 i 1909 1910 4,966 4,782 4.782 3,585 1908 174 1,197 In sonae of the lai^r estabhshments a card index of each person emploved is kept. When a person enters the employment of the mm, the name, occupation, etc., are entered upon an apphcation card. When such employee leaves the mill, the date is recorded on the card. J^rom such card records for a number of estabhshments the following table was compiled, showing the number of required persons emploved m the occupations in the different departments and the number of additional persons hired during the year to M the vacancies. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 983 Table 31.- ■ Unemployment aiid migration of woolen and worsted mill employees: 1907 to 1911. 1907. Dei)artment. Total. Wool sorting Combing Drawing Spinning Weaving Burling, mending, and examining. Dyeing and finishing Miscellaneoua 1908. Total. Wool sorting Combing Drawing Spinning Weaving Barling, mending, and examining. Dyeing and finishing Miscellaneous 1009. Total. Wool sorting Combing Drawing Spinning Weaving Burling, mending, and examining. Dyeing and finishing Miscellaneous 1910. Total. Wool sorting Combing Drawing Spinning Weaving Burling, mending, and examining. Dyeing and finisliing MisceUaneous 1911. Total. Wool sorting Combing Drawing Spinning.... Weaving Burling, mending, and examining. Dyeing and finishmg Miscellaneeus Addi- Total Per cent Average tional dif- of persons number ferent of persons employed during the year. employed. of persons em- persons hired in excess of re- ployed. during year. quired number. 11,178 18,214 29,402 163 334 398 732 119 978 1,743 2,721 178 501 582 1,083 116 3,413 6,513 9,926 191 3,032 4,731 7,773 156 340 763 1,103 224 1,312 1,823 3,135 130 1,268 1,661 2,929 131 11,473 12,932 24,415 389 310 699 979 1,028 2,007 494 295 789 3,358 5,457 8,815 3,176 2,893 6,079 311 434 745 1,427 1,819 3,246 1,339 696 2,035 12,433 18,255 30,688 489 304 793 1,138 1,852 2,990 490 541 1,031 3,575 6,641 10,216 3,305 4,469 7,774 348 923 1,276 1,796 2,260 4,056 1,292 1,260 2,552 13,233 15,188 28,421 466 360 826 998 843 1,841 527 714 1,241 3,166 3,246 6,412 4,265 5,201 9,466 501 796 1,297 1,537 1,908 3,445 1,773 2,120 3,893 I 3,112 25 85 69 233 1,678 111 482 429 4,436 25 56 71 361 2,254 331 579 759 7,548 50 141 140 594 3,932 442 1,061 1,188 113 80 105 60 163 91 140 127 52 147 62 163 110 186 135 267 126 98 115 77 84 135 103 122 159 124 120 143 100 66 103 155 134 298 120 177 Itaaii 984 EEPOBT OP TARIFF BOAHD ON SCHEDULE K. The table shows that in 1907 the average number of persons em- ployed was 11,178, but on account of the continual changes, employ- ees quitting or being discharged, 29,402 persons were hired to carry on the work, this number being 163 per cent in excess of the num- ber actually required to do the work. In 1908, 11,473 persons were required in the different occupations, but 24,415 persons were employed to fill the vacancies, this num- ber being 113 per cent in excess of the number at work. In 1909, 12,433 persons were required for the different positions, but 30,688 persons were employed to fill the vacancies occurring, this number being 147 per cent in excess of those at work. In 1910, 13,233 persons were emploved to fill the positions, but 28,421 nersons were hired to take the places of those discharged or those who quit of their own accord, this number being 115 per cent more than the average number at work. In 1911 a smaller number of establishments reported, showing 3,112 positions in the mills, and a total of 7,548 persons employed to fill the vacancies, or 143 per cent in excess of the number actually required for the work. The table should not be construed to mean that anything like a renewal of the larger part of the forces employed during the year took place, even though the number of persons hired during the year was two or three times as large as the number of positions in the mill. One-half of the working forces might be permanent, but to supply vacancies in the other half a great number of persons would be tried. It will be seen from tables 11, 14, and 19 showing "experience in the industrv," that 42.8 per cent of all employees had been emploved in the mills in which they were at work at the time of the investiga- tion from 1 to 4 years; 16.5 per cent, from 5 to 9 years; and 13 per cent, for 10 3'ears and over. RATES OF WAGES. At each of the mills the occupation of each employee, the rate of wages per hour, day, week, or month for time workers, with the hours worked and amount earned, were copied directly from the pay rolls of the establishment for a full-time period of from one to four weeks by the agents of the Tariff Board. For piece workers the total earn- ings and hours worked for from two to four weeks were secured for each employee. Sex and age period were obtained in each case. The pay period chosen for each mill was one during which the working forces were employed for the regular working hours of a fuU- tmie week, care being taken to exclude those periods in which hoHdays occun-ed or in which the operatives worked overtime. During the period of investigation from Mav to October, 1911, there was a depres- sion in the mdustiy, wliich reduced the number of employees in the mills investigated to about 35,000, although the number required for mfP?^^^^^^ ^^ *^® ^^^^ "^^^^ normal conditions would be 45,500. The hours of labor per week in the mills of the various States ranged from 54 to 60 for operatives 16 years of age and over and and from 48 to 60 for operatives under 16 years of age. The earnings in all of the States have been reduced to hourly rates. With these hourly rates as a working basis, it has been possible to present the rates of wages in the woolen and worsted industry in greater detail and REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 985 for a greater number of occupations than has hitherto been possible in the scope of wage investigations. ,,1,1. It should be stated that free access to pay rolls, books of account, records of daily and weekljr production, etc., and to all departments of the mills were furnished in each case. . , . n The number and distribution of the operatives shown m the tables presenting statistics relative to wages are not identical with the corresponding data given in the tables presenting statistics conceming country of birth, length of service, and former industry. This is the result of the difference in the methods of obtaining the data. As already explained, the wage rates were derived from data copied directly from the pay rolls of the establishment for a period during which the mill was operating normally. The other series of tables were based on the statistics reported for the operatives actually at work in the mills when they were investigated by the agents of the Tariff Board. In a number of cases the mills were not operatmg under normal conditions at the time the agents were there. In some instances the change was being made from winter goods to summer goods, and this necessitated more or less readjustment. OCCUPATIONS AND WAGES. Table 32 shows the distribution, by occupation and specified rates of wages, of the operatives engaged in the specified woolen and worsted mills, with the exception of the weavers. * Tables 33 and 34 present the same data for the males and females, respectively. Data concerning weavers are presented in Tables 39 to 42. Table 32.— Number 0/ operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wages, by department and occupation. Number of operatives in - «roolpn and worsted mills in I the United States. Department and Total. Receiving an hourly rate of wages of— occupation. 09 • 1 0) 33 1 og! og og 291 ^ 30 to 34.99 g cents. og 2,004 • • 2.604 sa og 1,082 2,635 1— t 4,920 r-l og 1-1 00 og St * Total 130.454 60 109 6.007 6,153:2,722 661 99 Wool-sorting depart- ment 904 3 3 4 19 22 244 135 09 115 128 134 42 48 - - . - . - -- 01 1^ 4 10 3 6 3 1 4 12 1 222 1 3 1 3 u vers6cr .......... Second hand Third hand Wool sorter Wool sorter, ap- 20 2 508 231 " 2 • • . . .... 5 124 3 3 57 10 2 94 9 3 9 84 73 26 25 Wool inspector Floor hand Clipper 12 121 3) 1 "*6 * • « • 44 58 3 2 14 1 22 > « . * .... - - - - . • . . .... Wool-scouring depart- ment 287 1 1 2 4 5 8 20 13 06 78 79 11 .... — — 19 12 3 1 252 1 1 2 3 1 4 1 5 2 3 4 2 1 10 Overseer Second hand Third hand Section hand Scouring-machine tender 1 1 1 1 1 • . . « .... " ' • * .... .... * • • » - • • • 1 15 C4 n . 78 11 ! a 1 Exclusive ol weavers. me BEPOKT OF TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 32.— Number of operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wages, hy department and ocmpatioji—Continucd. ^ ' ;/ / 'I>epa3rt'ment ami oocnpation. Carding department, worsted Overseer Second hand Third hand Section hand Card tender Balling-head tender Card stripper Card cleaner Card grinder Carding department, . woolen Overseer . Second hand Third hand Section hand Card tender Card stripper Card cleaner Card grinder Cdmbing department • (Bradford system).. Overseer Second hand Third hand Section hand Oill-box tender Balling-machine tender NoWeoomb tender Back wash-ma- chine tender Pin setter and brush maker Top carrier Combing department (l^Yench system).... Overseer Second hand Section hand Gill-box tender Bailing-machine tender French comb ten- der Backwash-ma- cMne tender Pin setter and brush maker Brtwing department (Bradford system) . Number of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States. Receiving an hourly rate of wages of— Overseer Second hand Section hand Drawing-frame tender Doffer Boving carrier EEPOBT or TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 987 Table 32. — Number of operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wages, by department and occupation — Continued. Number of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States. Department and Total Receiving an hourly rate of wages of— occupation. 75 cents and over. 60 to 74.99 cents. 45 to 69.C9 cents. 35 to 44.99 to cents. 4 1 og 00 . • r^ no to • • g 1—1 tn in rH 194 • • og r-1 8 to 9.99 g cents. . . t^ BO Less than 6 cents. Drawing department (French system) 615 1 1 10 2 2^14 . . . . Overseer 2 3 8 502 1 1 1 2 Second hand Section hand Drawing-f r a m e tender * • * > :::: 2 — ..... ..... ■""4 6 2 194 244 56 — • • • * Frame spinning de- partment 3,547 2 5 3 5 25 48 45 7 24 584 7021,121 813 151 12 Overseer 50 62 12 25 1,199 592 198 102 1.161 146 2 5 3 4 1 10 10 5 15 25 1 7 9 13 1 11 1 2 ■•■j 1 4 3 3 365 5 3 2 192 6 Rftponri hnnd Third h'lnd "■■3 349 13 24 40 237 2 fiftplioTi hj\n • • • .... • • ■ • 1 Occu|>ations in establishments where continental system is in use. ■Ill I 988 Table 32.- BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD 01^ SOHEDtJLE K, Number of operatives la woolen and worsted mills In the United States. Department and occupation. Dressing department.. Overseer Second hand Section hand Dresser tender Sizing-machine tender Sizing beamer Beam fixer Warper Weaving department. . Overseer Swond hand Third hand Section hand Weaver 2 Loom fixer Harness fixer Drawer-in Hander-in Tier-in Chain builder. Cloth percher Cloth examiner Burling and mending department Overseer Second hand Section hand Burler Mender Inspector Finishing department. Overseer Second hand Third hand Section hand Washing-machine tender Fulling-mill ten- der Crabbing-machine tender Gigging-machine tender Drying-machine tender Teasling-machine tender Brushlng-raachine tender Shearing-machine tender Pressing-machine tender Dyeing department- . . Overseer Second hand Third hand , Section hand Dyeliouse liand . . > Exclusive of weavers. « Weavers' earnings are shoun in Tables 30 to 12. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 989 Table 2,2.— Number of operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wages, hy department and occupation — Continued. Number of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States. Department and Total. Keceiving an hourly rate of wages of— occupation. fl > at o ti (A 2 8 ••r to og 62 22 2 • • eo-g 552 00 407 -J 1-t CO OQ £§ 1-t 413 • • T-( CO T-i OS • S 00 og 00 . ■i-> Mechanical and gen- eral department 2,684 71 309 211 543 76 26 4 - « • • O vpropor 55 14 1 2 320 56 24 13 SO 222 54 21 57 Gl G 47 85 213 233 48 70 136 860 3 1 11 4 11 3 5 4 1 2 Second hand Third hand Section hand Mjvfhinist 1 '■ 1 2 27 ""h 22 1 5 9 ""2 113 "*i3 150 ""9 21 2 Machinist appren- tice Blacksmith Blacksmith helper Pipefitter P/ftrTipntpr 21 ..... 24 ..... * * 4 3 3 8 2 17 3 ""5 "2 16 16 64 7 12 18 ""*6 10 19 1 6 26 133 25 11 r" 1 T^ainti^r 19 1 Tinsmith Electrician Electrician helper. Mason Tin o § a 4 2 s s 1 i to 2 a S 2 a o CO 2 o n a a> o s o a o o a 00 i a a T-l . tn a a> •-» 2 •V 1—1 6 a u r-l (M 34 s f-« a • at 00 o a v u a 1 Combing department (French system) 77 4 4 6 5 1 6 1 2 3.... Overseer 4 21 1 10 8 7 4 1 3 1 3 1 4 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 \ i 1 Second hand Section hand ..... 1 19 GiU-box tender 1 . Balling - machine tender 1 French-comb tender j 2 2 1 8 5 1 1 Backwash-machine tender 1 1 1 , 1 Pin setter and brushmaker 1 1 9. 1 Drawing department (Bradford system) . . . 401 . - - . 3.... 3 4 13 8 3 13 49 144 134 26 i .... Overseer Second hand Section hand Drawing- frame tender 7 11 27 237 74 45 " ** " " 3 " ■ ■ * 1 2 1 2 1 1 2 10 1 I ..... 2 4 ""2 46 108 21 15 ..... 78 28 27 1 24 1 '*" .... Doller t 1 Roving carrier 1 1 r--- Drawing department (French system) 19 1 2.... 4 1 1 5 5 t * Overseer 2 3 9 6 1 1 """i Second hand Section hand 2 1 2 1 4 Drawing- frame tender 1 5 ■ ... .... Frame spinning depart- ment 1,003 2 5 3 5 25 48 43 6 15 166 200 162 273 50 Overseer 50 62 12 25 233 174 92 48 25 2 5 3 4 1 10 10 5 15 25 1 7 9 13 1 11 1 2 ..... 1 4 3 3 133 4 3 2 7 6 Second hand Third hand ""3 87 13 24 40 27 6 2 Section hand ..... 1 3 1 Frame spinner Dofler Bobbin setter 9 65 49 27 10 168 82 20 3 31 16 2 Roving carrier Twister 1 1 1 Yam inspector 9 2 1 Mule spinning depart- ment, worsted 609 3 6 10 12 23 118 119 23 32 66 54 93 44 6 .... Overseer 22 22 9 190 65 83 74 3 6 4 6 5 2 "*5 1 3 "15 3 8 9 73 Secondhand Section hand Mule spinner Mule spinner helper Joiner 2 ""51 20 46 1 "io 10 2 "*'i4 9 3 6 ""u 5 2 29 16 "■"8 14 1 27 4 5 "*i2 76 2 4? .... 4 25 6 Piecer Dofler 992 Table 33. EEPOKT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K, -Number of male operatives rtceimnff spedjied hourlif rates of wages, by depart^ mmt and occupation— Continued. ^ ^ aepart^ Department and occu- pation. Mule spinning depart- ment, woolen Overseer Secondhand Third hand Mule spinner Mule spinner helper Pieeeri Doffer Kovin^ carrier Mule fixer Winding department... Overseer Secondhand Third hand Section hand Winder Bobbin carrier Spooling department. . . Overseer Secondhand Section hand Spooler Keeler Dressing department. . . Overseer Secondhand Section hand Dresser tender Sizing machine tender Sizing beamer Beam fixer Warper Weaving department.. Overseer Secondhand Third hand Section hand Weaver' Loom fixer Harness fixer Drawer-in Hander-in Tier-in Chain builder Cloth percher Clotli examiner Bnrlinc and mending department Overseer Secondhand Section hand Biirler Inspector Number of male operatives in woolen and worsted mills In the United States. Total. Receiving an hourly rate of wages of— i ExdS^rof';;B?^ra^*"*^ ^'^^'^ continental system is in use. » Weavers' earnings shown in Tables 30 to 42. BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. 993 Table 33. — Number of male operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wages, by depart- ment and occupation — Continued . Number of male operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States. Total. Keceiving an hourly rate of wages of— Department and occu- pation. 1^ > O as a I'. 2 a • 3 S CO a B S 5 :§ 13 30 09 a 8 , 43 • a 9 69 a • s CO -.J a S § d s CO 1-1 100 OS a § 3 196 3 1 5 8 16 7 6 2 12 22 5 74 2-^ g g 1.0 3 1-1 449 a § CO t-i 3 364 1 • f-H r-l 3 77 ■0 a 3 00 18 a 8 3 CO s Finishing department. . 1,474 31 13 99 13 1 Overseer 127 2 78 14.... 13 22j 19 27 19 1 7 18 33 4 6 4 2 2 9 5 4 4 10 3 2 1 4 1 1 1 Second hand Third hand 1 .... Section hand 25 245 30 78 88 183 Washing - machine tender 65 13 45 66 79 22 38 62 57 130 5 22 10 50 25 IS 34 13 1 Fulling-machine tender Crabbing- machine tender 1 Gigging-machiue tender 9 23 12 4 7 9 Drying-machine tender 1 4 14 Teasling-m a c h in e tender 86 65 255 200 Brushing- machine tender Shearing - machine tender 14 18 44 7 13 2 1 Pressing - machine tender 1 1 13 1 ! .... ... Dyeing department 791 10 9 8 13 7 15 38 31 170 307 158 25 > - • • Overseer 43 10 9 5 3 8 3 1 4 3 5 1 11 1 9 16 3 5 2 21 2 3 3 6 156 1 Second hand 34 690 Third hand Section hand 3 4 Dyehouse hand 2 2 306 158 25 ... Mechanical and general department 2.656 .... 2 8 62 71 309 551 5 4 "iso 211 407 '""2 27 540 409 56 26 4 . - • ■> Overseer 55 14 1 2 326 56 24 13 80 222 54 21 57 61 6 47 8.5 213 233 48 70 136 832 3 1 22 2 ""5 11 4 • ■ • * ""9 11 3 ""iis 1 ..... '""2i 2 Second hand Third hand Section hand Macliinist . . .. •• • • • Machinist appren- tice 21 24 4 4 3 Blacksmith 2 ""'2 17 3 "5 "2 16 13 ""m 64 7 12 18 ""■5 10 19 1 6 9 ""'26 133 25 3 28 2 31 11 72 6 10 14 22 Blacksmith's helper Pipefitter Carpenter Painter Tinsmith Electrician Electrician helper. . Mason Pin setter .... '"2 '""3 8 """3 .... 4 14 2 11 '"i9 6 ""i2 '""3 3 7 64 '"'io 15 36 6 22 ""23 """9 ""32 69 1 15 36 165 4 ""io """2 '"*82 16 28 29 55 291 1 "is 4 '"55 k 6 13 2 13 278 ..... ""5 ""'2 "6 *"ii * * « ■> • ■ • • • • ■ • Engineer Oiler 1 Fireman * * * ■ Fireman's helper. . . ::::.::; Teamster 4 3 4 Watchman General laborer 32 3 1 ■ " * ■ Miscellaneous depart- ment 1 5,199 2 5 14 35 71 199 428 433 711 1 420 1 ini 497 733 47 3 ' Includes packing, waste, and shipping departments and miscellaneous occupations in various depart- ments. 994 EEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 3-L— Number of fenrnk opemtivu receiving specific hourly rates of waaes im department and occupation. y » y Number of female operaUTes in the woolen and woreted mills In the United States. Department and occupation. I Total. Total. Wool-sorting depart- ment Wool sorter , Wool sorter, ap- prentice Clipper 1 13,111 120 Receiving an Iiourly rate of wages of- 80 • C& S |S s s sS o Wool-scouring depart- ment, scouring-ma- cliinetenda: Cardiiy; department, wwsted.... Card tender Balling-head tender Card cleaner 38 43 39 21 Carding department, woolea 2 8 11 Card tender. Card cleaner. Combing department (Bradford system)... GiU-box tender Bailing - machine tender Nobl&mb tender. BacJcwasb-machine tender Top carrier 7S 17 n 155 495 at «Q ho 540 599 »0 tffl .-I ♦J 1,197 O 8j . ao 11 18 9 11 18 27 27 2,8214,7001,965 11 3? o o i9 5 o to 528 22 58 17 330 237 5 79 8 1 Combing department (French system) Gill-box tender Bailing - machine tender French-comb tend- er Backwash-machine tender 263 8 14 22 22 176 8 31 48 Drawing department (Bradford system).... 1,019 24 12 86 9 45 18 6 18 2 'i(3 112 261 83 28 'i 35 10 101 D r a w i n g-frame tender Doffer RoTing carrier Brawing department rFrench system), orawiog frame tender . 931 m 2 496 Frame-spinning depart-J ment ; 2.544 Frame sphiner 966 Doffer 310 Bobbin setter 24 Roving carrier 1 10 Twister 1,113 Yam inspector 121 21 67 5 25 85 10 4 192 14 14 4G7 130 7 20 35 39 25 1 13 403 451 16 2 418 9 232 1 185 189 502 262 210 30 367 35 1 244 969 120 12 96 23 1 56 540 12 101 277 83 2 3 519 75 194 129 8 7 190 12 12 87 12 10 2 1 £j£Cluslve or weavers. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 995 Table 34. — Number of female operatives receiving specific hourly rates of wages ^ by department and occitpatian--Contiiiued. Number of female operatives in the woolen and worsted mills in the United States. Department and TotcJ. Receiving an hourly rate of wages of— occupation. 40 to 59. 99 cents. 1^ 30 to 34.99 cents. si § 8 si 1—1 1—1 og |j2 S-2 Less than 6 cents. Mule-«pinning depart- ment, worsted. ooe 135 34S 1081 e > . . . . 1 1 Mule spinner 19 344 243 8 11 122 2 Piecer 222 Doffer 127 lOJH 6 1 Mule-spinning depart- ment, woolen, mule spinner 44 1 1 5 1 6 9 21 .... Winding department.. 487 4 9 4 32 76 110 131 82 38 1 Overseer 2 4S2 3 1 109 1 130 Winder 1 .... 1 - - 4 9 4 32 76 SOi 38 2.... Bobbin carrier 1 Spooling depM-tment. . . 1,325 1 1 34 92 197 739 191 62 g Overseer 2 1 1,171 143 8 1 1 Second hand 1 Spooler 34 87 5 167 29 677 62 147 44 51 3 8 g Heeler Reel setter .... Dressing department. . . 145 1 5 1 8 11 15 104 .... Second hand 1 4 33 107 1 Section hand 2 3 ""i 1 1 Dresser tender 1 4 2 6 4 6 9 13 91 Sizing beamcr .... Weaving department. . . 1063 32 91 56 69 51 49 64 92 122 37 Section hand 9 9 Weavers' Harness fixer 2 373 274 4 1 2 Drawer-in 32 79 54 69 51 40 3 42 22 Hander-in 90 122 37 Tier-in :::;.;::;i 2 1 2 Cloth examiner ... Burling and mending department 2.852 1 94 307 326 294 359 619 494 246 85 27 "1 Overseer 21 3 1,358 1,375 95 2 4 1 74 225 22 2 12 1 Second hand 1 1 1 354 124 15 Burler 3 30 256 21 97 185 124 396 210 12 168 74 4 85 27 Mender "*j 89 Inspector 10 11 1 . . . . ' * ■ ■ Finishing department. . 34 1 3 __ 1 1 13 11 6 •"i----! -| . . . . " * •. • Drying-machine tender 4 24 5 , 2 Brushing -machine tender 1 Shearing - machine tender 1 12 1 6 3 5 1 Pressing - machine tender • 1 " .... * • ■ * Mechanical and general department, general laborer 28 1 "-* 3 4 20 " " ■ ■ 1 . . . . " " * • Miscellaneous depart- ment' 2,054 — 1 3 4 16 22 61 107 126 119 354 789 349 102 1 1 1 E xclusive of weavers. Weavers' earnings are shown in Tables 39 to 42. Includes packing, waste and shipping departments, and miscellaneous occupations in various departments. 996 BEPOKT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. The following summary table is based upon Tables 32, 33, and 34 and shows the distribution of the operatives, exclusive of the weaversj by sex and by the departments in which they were employed: Table Z^.—Wumher and^ percentage of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, ly sex and by department. Department. Total. Wool sorting Wool scouring Carding: Worsted Woolen Combing: Bradford system French system Drawing: Brad ford aystam French system Frame spinmng Mule spinning: Worsted Woolen Winding.. Spooling Dressing Weaving » Burling and mending Finishing Dyeing Mechanical and general. . . Miscellaneous Total. » 30, 454 964 287 S34 1,012 1,420 515 3,547 1,215 741 &I8 1,378 659 1.570 3.022 1,508 791 2,684 7,253 Males. 17,343 844 282 345 459 682 77 401 19 1,003 609 697 161 53 514 907 170 1,474 791 2.656 5,199 Females. rer cent of totaL 13,111 120 5 21 75 330 263 1,019 496 2,544 606 44 487 1,325 145 663 2,852 34 Males. Females. 56.9 87.5 98.3 43.1 12.5 1.7 28 2,054 94.3 5.7 85.9 14.1 67.4 32.0 22.6 77.4 28.3 71.7 3.7 96.3 28.3 71.7 50.1 49.9 94.1 5.9 24.5 75.5 3.8 96.2 78.0 22.0 57.8 42.3 5.6 94.4 97.7 2.Z 100.0 98.9 1.1 71.7 28.3 1 Exclusive of weavers. Of the 30,454 persons shown above 17,343, or 56.9 per cent, were males and 1.3,111, or 43.1 per cent, were females. The proportions of the sexes here differ very little from the proportions shown in the other series of tables (see page 954). The numbers of persona shown for the various departments include only those operatives doing the work that is especially characteristic of the respective departments. A variety of occupations occurring only in the more highly organized establishments and the occupations of the packing, waste, and shipping branches of the mills are grouped together, since a detailed study of the rates of wages for the persons in those occupations would not be significant. No women were employed in tbe dyeing department and only a small proportion were engaged in the work of the wool scouring, finishing, worsted carding, woolen mule spinning, and mechanical and general departments. On the other hand, women predominated largely in the spooling, burling and mending, drawing, French comb- mg^ winding, and frame spinning departments. It is interesting to note that over two-thirds (682, or 67.4 per cent) of the operatives in the combing department following the Bradford system were men, while in the French combing department over three- fourths (263, or 77.4 per cent) of the employees were women. In both branches of the drawing department women predominated largely, but the proportion of women in the department using the French syst3m is much larger than the proportion in the department KEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 997 using the Bradford system, the percentages being 96.3 and 71.7, respectively. fn the worsted mule spinning department the sexes were about evenly represented, but in the woolen mule spinning department the men formed 94.1 per cent of the total number of operatives. In the frame spinning department women formed 71.7 per cent of all the w^e-earners. The following summary table shows the distribution of the oper- atives, exclusive of weavers, by specified rates of wages: Table 36. — Numher, per cent distribution, and per cent of total of the operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States, by sex and by hourly rate of wages. Hourly rate of wages. Total. Males. Females. Per cent distribution. Per cent of totaL Total. Males. Females. Males. Females. Total 1 .30, 454 17,343 13,111 100.0 100.0 100.0 56.9 43.1 75 penis and over 33 60 109 291 468 2,004 2,604 1,682 2,635 4,926 6,007 6,153 2,722 061 99 33 59 106 287 451 1,849 2,109 1,142 2,036 3,729 3,186 1,453 757 133 13 0.1 0.2 0.4 1.0 1.5 6.6 8.6 5.5 8.6 16.2 19.7 20.2 8.9 2.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.6 1.7 2.6 10.6 12.1 6.6 11.7 21.5 18.4 8.4 4.4 0.8 0.1 100.0 98.3 97.2 98.6 96.4 92.3 81.0 67.9 77.2 75.7 53.0 23.6 27.8 20.1 13.1 60 to 74.99 cents 1 3 4 17 155 495 540 599 1,197 2,821 4,700 1.965 528 86 (2) (2) 0.1 1.2 3.8 4.1 4.6 9.1 21.5 35.9 15.0 4.0 0.7 1.7 46 to 59.99 cents 2.8 35 to 44.99 cents L4 30 to 34.99 cents 3.6 25 to 29.99 cents 7.7 20 to 24.99 cents 19.0 18 to 19.99 cents 32.1 16 to 17.99 cents 22.8 14 to 15.99 cents 24.3 12 to 13.99 cents 47.0 10 to 11.99 cents 76.4 8 to 9.99 cents 72.2 6 to 7.99 cents 79.9 Less than 6 cents 86.9 1 Exclusive of weavers. 2 Less than one-tenth of 1 per cent. One-fifth of the 30,454 wage earners — 6,153, or 20.2 per cent— were paid at least 10 cents but less than 12 cents an hour. The mills in general list their wage rates in cents and fractions of a cent. In this discussion, however, the rates will be quoted in cents, with the under- standing that the figure stated includes the range of rates froni that amount to that amount and ninety-nine one-hundredths additional. Thus the rate '^11 cents" would include rates ranging from 11 to 11.99 cents. Consequently, these 6,153 operatives received from 10 to 1 1 .99 cents an nour. Almost as many employees — 6,007, or 19.7 per cent — received from 12 to 13 cents an hour. The next largest group — 4,926 persons,- or 16.2 per cent — received from 1 4 to 1 5 cents an hour. These three groups comprise over one-half (56.1 per cent) of the total number of employees considered. The number paid over 16 cents but less than 25 cents an hour was 6,921, or 22.7 per cent, of the total. The 3,482 operatives receiving less than 10 cents an hour formed 11.4 per cent of the total number, and the 961 employees receiving at least 30 cents an hour formed 3.2 per cent. These two classes receiving the extreme in wages formed 14. 6 per cent of the operatives. More than one-half of the females — 7,521, or 57.4 per cent — received 10 cents, but less than 14 cents, an hour. Over one-third — 4,700, or 35.9 per cent — of the female operatives were concentrated in the group receiving 10 cents, but less than 12 cents an hour. 32080°— H. Doe. 342, G2-2, vol 2 25 998 BEPOKT OP TARIFF BOAHD OlS SCHEDULE K. Males predominated largely among the operatives receiving 14 cents and over an hour and females predominated largely among thc^e receivmg less than 12 cent« an tour. More than one-half-? huf}LTih.J^'A'^^^^ ^u^ employees receiving at least 12 cente but less than 14 cents an hour were males; but that proportion is Musti^'' proportion of males (56.9 per cent) engag^ in thi Table 32 shows the range of wa^es for more than 100 occupations, t^rtain of these occupations are of greater importance than the othera when the amount and quality of theproduct manufactured is concerned. im? n^^nVtm^'''^ ^^^ occupations which require experience and upon which efficiency m manufacturing woolen and worsted it^r "^^"^^ clepends and the hourly rates of wages paid to the persons in these occupations: Table ^7 .—mstribution of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United States M^^mtjom wh^reqmre exnerknee and upon which efficiency iT^naTt^LI^^ woolen and worsted fabrics 7nainly depends J m v >> >■ munu/aciunng Departmwit and occupation. Wool sorting depart- ment: Wool sorters Do Wool Bcouring de- gartment, sconr- »g machine lend- er Carding depart- ment, worsted: Card tender Card stripper.... Card ETinder Carding depart- ment, woolen: Card tender ^ i>o l-'ard stripper Cardgrincler Combing depart- ment (Bradford system): GiU box tender.. Do Noble comb tender. Do Combing depart- ment (French sys- tem): GiU box tender. . Do French comb tender. Do Drawing depart- ment (Bradford system): Drawing- frame t«nder. Do BEPORT OF TAKIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 999 Table 37 —Distribution of operatives in woolen and worsted mtlU m the United Sta,tes M occupations whkh r^uwe experience and upon which efficienaj xn m^nufactwnng woolen and worsted fabrics mainly d^pe^rfs— Continued. Department and occupation. Sex. I a a 3 o Iloiurly rate of wages. 33 cents and over. a a Female.. Male Female. Male Female. Male..., Female. Male.... ..do ..do.... Female. Male.... Female. Male Female. Male Female. Male.... Female. Male.... ...do.... Female. Male.... .. .do Female ..do.... Male... Female 496 233 966 48 1,113 190 19 65 83 74 344 418 44 68 482 29 1.171 352 33 432 20 373 106 67 1.358 1,375 124 95 o 25 to 34.99 cents. a "A o Ph 2.6 20 to 24.99 cents. 1 88 29 Male Female . Male 1,230 34 690, .3 111 16 to 19.99 cents. a 46.3 35. C 26.0 2.3 b 8 20 46 s o Ph 12 to 15.99 cents. 8to 11.99 cents. a 3 'A 26.9 42.1 30.8 55.4 0.8 0.2 2 0.3 190 1 335 5 32 15 2 3 89 43 54.0 3.0 77. C 25.0 8.6 14 3.0 0.2 6.5 34.7 161 1 28 2.3 121 3 65 4 79 69 23 30 256 44 21 38 38.5 2.3 5.9 1.9 24 1.0 191 19 5 6 127 6 10 36 1.7 .1 2.1 .81 12.6 29.2 6.0 8 O.D 16 34.4 9.1 15.0 20.0 21.2 55.7 34.3 2.2' 18.6 35.5 22.1 3.1 2.3 34 23 4 31 7 123 25 40 171 410 15 32 30.4 13.6 14.7 7.4 2.9 6.5 12.1 7.2 35.0 33.0 23. 59.7 12.6 29.8 12.1 33.7 220 494 34 395 22 11 19 3 56 122 19 15 27 185 15 254 than Scents. l4 a 3 'A 38.5 94.4 51.1 70 35.5 11.6 67.9 29.2 3.6 75.7 35.5 4.5 34.1 39.7 38.4 51.7 21.7 300 9 471 13 709 s u 60.5 3.9 48.8 27.1 63.71 1.1 a 3 o Ol Ph 15 12 12 222 4.2 36.4 257 20.9 3 8.8 177 25.7 2 10.0 97 26.0 6 5.7 2 3.0 520 38.3 422 30.7 11 8.9 23 24.2 810 65.8 14 41.2 464 67.2 21 26 210 14 824 13 42 10.8 16.2 64.5 47.7 38.2 43.6 48.3 70.4 .6 39.4 10.0 11.2 .9 522 198 10 19 95 17 25 Drawing depart- ment (French system), drawing- frame tender Frame-spinning de- partment: Frame spinner.. Do Twister Do Mule-spinning de- partment, worsted: Mule spinner — Do Mule - spinner's helper. Joiner Piecer Do Mule - spinning de- partment, woolen: . Mule spinner — ^' Do Winding depart- ment: r Winder * Do Spooling depart- ment: , Spooler ' Do Dressing depart- • ment: J Dresser tender . . Do Weaving depart- ment: 1 Loom fixer Drawer-in Do Cloth percber.. . Cloth examiner.. Burling and mend- ingdepartment: Burfcr Mender Inspector Do Finishing depart- ment: Finishing ma- chine tender.* Do» Dyeirig department, dyehouse band. » Exclusive of weavers. ..,..,.,,. i • ^ 2 Includes tenders of washing, fulling, crabbing, gigging, drymg, teaselmg, brushmg, shoarmg, and press- ing machines. 1 38 59 38.4 14.4 8.0 20.0 7.7 50.0 3.0 1.5 7.9 5.0 112 8.3 1000 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K, Table 37 .—Distribution of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in a^ TT^.-t^ o*^ for occupations which require experience and »Z» .,,h:.h ^ • ■ United States woolen Zi worsted fahrlslS^d^^rSfj^Zii^^^^^^^ "^'''"^'-^ ''' "^^^f^^ng Department and occupation. Sex. Mechanical and gen- eral department: Machinist Male. Pipe fitter .do. Carpenter ...do Electrician do Engineer do."! Fireman ...do Laborer do Overseers Sorting depart- ment. Scouring depart- ment. Carding depart- ment, worsted. Carding depart- ment, woolen. Combing depart- ment (Brad- ford system). Combing depart- ment (French system). Drawing depart- ment (Brad- ford system). Drawing depart- ment (French system). Frame spinning department. Mule spinning department, worsted. Mule spinning department, woolen. Winding depart- ment. Spoohng depart- ment, j Dressing depart- ' ment. I Weaving depart- ' ment. 1 Burling and I mending de- _ partment. Do Fmishing de- partment. Dyeing depart- ment. Mechanical de- partment. Male... ...do ...do -..do ...do ...do. i.-.do ...do ...do ...do ...do.....j ...do.'... --.do.*...| I ...do ...do ' ...do ' Female.! ^BtlAiOw mm ml -.do ' ..do Hourly rate of wages. 35 cents 25 to and 34.99 over. I oents. 20 to 24.99 cents. 15 to 19.99 cents. 12 to 15.99 cents. 8 to 11.99 cents. Less than 8 cents. 11 78.6 2' 14.3' 1 7.1 43 24 55.8 14 32.5 2' 4.7 18 9 50.0 8 44.4' 1 ' 18 3 2 50 22 m 11 11 30 68 M 21 127 43 5.5 14 18 14 2 9 m.0 4 57.1 50.0 2S.0 8L8 18.2 2 1 25 4 12 6 6 38.9 28.6 50.0 li.6. 1 5. 5 J 1 14.3'.. 4.7 5.6 l! 2.3 50.01 9 18.2 18.0 1 46.2!, 54.5 54.5 2.0 9.1 27.3 2.0 1& 53.3 13' 43.3 ■40 58.8 18 26.5 10 14.7 9; 3461 15 57.7' 2' 7.7' 1 3.4 50 32 25 m4 74.5 2 46 9.1 18.2 9.1 9.5.... 36. 2; 18 9.3 45.5 22 40.0 14.2 2.3 9.1 6 28.6 12 9.4 5 n.6 1 LS 13 1 1 21 61.9... 0.8... 2.3 3. (1 t^mstM^'S' ^'^^^^'' 2 Of the overseers were w;;;;;;7i;;^group from li^^l^^^^^^^-^i f«!m ll^i^lt^Si ^'^^^-'' 2 Of the ove.^ were women, 1 in the group from 25 to 35 cents,' and 1 f BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDl^LE K. 1001 In the comments on the distribution of wage-earners according to the rate groups shown in this table, the fact should be considered that while operatives are reported for a certam earnings group, they may in reality be concentrated at one rate in that group. For instance, 21 spinners in the woolen mule spinning department are shown for the earnings group '^8 to 11 cents ^ whUe all of them received at least 10 cents an hour. The more detailed rates may be found m i able 32. The largest proportion of employees receiving at least 35 cents an hour naturally occurred in the case of the overseers. For this occu- pation not only a knowledge of the work is required, but also more or less executive ability. Of the 642 overseers, 303, or 47.2 per cent, were paid at least 35 cents an hour. In a few other occiipations some operatives were paid that amount. The occupations with the largest proportions of operatives receiving such rates were engineers, with 18.8 per cent in this group, and electricians, with 10.5 per cent. •■ The carpenters and electricians were the only classes of operatives who did not receive a rate lower than 20 cents an hour. Many wage- earners in other occupations received rates above 20 cents an hour, but in each case some of the employees for the occupation were paid at much lower rates. The range of wages was from 8 to 34 cents an hour for card grmders, gill-box tenders in the combing department following the Brad- ford system, woolen mule spinners, menders, drawers-in, and cloth nerchers. The range was less, being from 8 to 19 cents an hour, for card tenders, gill-box tenders in the French combing department. Noble comb tenders, French comb tenders, drawing-frame tenders, frame spinners, twisters, and piecers. A few occupations are shown with operatives receiving less than 8 cents an hour. Of these the burlers were most numerous, 112, or 8.3 per cent, of the persons in this work having received this low rate. Probably these persons v/ere new to the work and would be classed as learners. The rates of wages paid to wool sorters range from 16 cents per hour to the highest group shown in this table — 35 cents and over. By consulting Table 32 it will be seen that no wool sorter received so much as 45 cents per hour. No female wool sorter received so much as 25 cents an hour. Almost one-half of the males in this occupation — 228, or 48.5 per cent — were paid from 25 to 34 cents, while three-fourths of the females— 29, or 76.3 per cent>— were paid from 16 to 19 cents. Wliile the proportion of women wool sorters is small, where they have been employed it is recognized that their deftness of touch enables them to detect the differences in the finer grades of wool and sort with great precision. They are, however, unable to sort the coarser grades of wool as rapidly as the men, because they lack the physical strength required to handle large quantities of wool. The rates of wages of the scouring machine tenders were lower than those of the wool sorters. Less skill, however, is required of the wool scourers than of the wool sorters. Three-fifths of the wool scourers — 149, or 60.3 per cent — were paid at least 12 cents but less than 16 cents an hour, and about half as man}^— 76, or 30.8 per cent— were paid at least 16 cents but less than 20 cents an hour. 1002 EEPOET OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. Practically all of the card tenders in the woolen carding depart- ment received 8 cents but less than 16 cente an hour. AS>ut ?wa^ thirds of the mole carders (65.4 per cent) were paid from l" to IS cents an hour while a larger proportion of the female cardere "(69 ner cent) received less than 12 cents an hour ^aruere (w per In the woreted carding department one-half of the card tendera (51.7 per cent) and a smiilar proportion (51.1 per cent) of theS stnppers were paid at least 12 cents but less th^ 16 cents an ho?r ^ Ahnost aU of the male gUl-box tendere m the French combing department (95.2 per cent) were paid at least 12 cents but lesftS 16 cents an hour, and two-tlurd's (68.5 per centrof those Lth^ combmg department using the Bradford system were pJd at that rate, while about thre^tenths (29.9 per cent) were pafd at least 8 Tout onlS73"5 9 nTo^ ^^ ST" ^^ ^« V^« ^^^ ^-^^^ aDout one-third (35.9 per cent) of those m the department usine the Bradford system were paid 12 cents but less than 16 cente ariour whde over on.yteaUi (11.9 per cent) of such operatives La the FrencS department received at least 16 cente but less than 20 cmte an W The larger proportion of female gill-box tendera in each branch^f ^ceXanXS!''^'"'''* ""'"" P"'^ '"^^ *^^ '- *^"^^t ™^^ The range of rates for female comb tenders was ereater in tl.A combing department using the French system tC S the branch using the Bradford system, being from 8 to 19 cents fo^Fre^ch comb tenders and from 8 to 15 cents for Noble comb tender A greater proportion of the operatives in the French departmenf howefir re ^"IS^wisrL'ihT En'i r, ''^n^^T pV le-^hann^n^ ^id such low w^es "^^^ department only 44.3 per cent were The range of rates is the same for the drawing frame tendpr<» in thn uZiX"^"' Hf *^" '^^r^ department. iT^edrnwingdeS^^^? usmg the Bradford system, however, tlie largest proportion of mSe ZubutlZ^^Zl"7^fT ^''1' ""' ^' Pe4nt)?ec?i;ed at W ll «m,ilw i;ifJ!i w ^^ ^''iit* an liour, and the females were ahnost equally divided between that group and the group receiving 8 cents but less than 12 cents an hour (465^ or 50 per cent, and TeT or 49 7 per cent, being reported, respectiveiv, for these groups) wl^eL th« STn hi!,?' T^ ♦P-^T?*'" f''^? '•«?'''^ed 8 cents but less than 12 ^^u^ ^- J^ ^\ *^T*'^ drawing department there were onlv 6 male drawing frame tenders, and percentages based onVuch a sm«l\ number are not.significant an^ conslsquently are Tot riven th J&ITrfi^n^J ^^^"i* spinning departmente werlpaid'moro than the frame spinners. No frame spinner received so much as '>0 cent« an hour and tl.e majority received onlv from 12 to 15 cente an hour ScZte anToS '''' *'"'"■' '^*^°"S'' '^^'^^ received less thai Five men in the worsted mule spinning department were naid ^t Imount ZtZt'T^ ^'^'^.f ' "' f^^ r^ent,P,Sd irrh^n that amount out more than 25 cent.<« in fliA w/^^i;r>» «, i • •"^*»w department 111, or 26.6 per centof the mSle m" k':Jin:^:i^3Si BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, lOOS at least 25 cents but less than 35 cents an liour, and 161, or 38.5 per cent, were paid at least 20 cents but less than 25 cents an hour. The majority of the female mule spinners were paid less than 16 cents an hour, 57.9 per cent of those in the worsted, branch and 81.8 per cent of those in the woolen branch having been paid at that rate. Over three-fourths of the winders received 8 cents but less than 16 cents an hour. Some received less than 8 cents an hour, and some received 16 cents ol* more. The rates for the spoolers are the lowest in this group of occupa- tions upon which efficiency in the manufacture of woolen and worsted goods mainly depends. Practically all of the spoolers are women and girls, and 824, or 70.4 per cent, of them were paid from 8 to 11 cents an hour; 254, or 21.7 per cent, were paid from 12 to 15 cents; and 59, or 5 per cent, received less than 8 cents. The highest paid group of spoolers (34, or 2.9 per cent) received from 16 to 19 cents an hour.. The range in the rates of wages for dresser tenders is from 8 cents an hour for the lowest rate to 35 cents and over for the highest. The concentration for the males occurs in the group paid frona 25 to 34 cents an hour, 190, or 54 per cent, of the men engaged in this work being reported for those rates. In the case of the female dresser tenders three-fourths, 75.8 per cent, received from 8 to 15 cents an hour. In the weaving department all of the loom fixers and cloth perchers are men. The loom fixers are among the operatives receiving the highest rates. Over three-fourths, 335, or 77.6 per cent, were paid at least 25 cents but less than 35 cents an hour. More than one- half of the cloth perchers, 59, or 55.7 per cent, were paid 20 cents but less than 25 cents an hour. Almost one-fourth, 25, or 23.6 per cent, were paid 16 cents but less than 20 cents an hour. Practically all of the drawers-in are females. Their rates vary con- siderably, ranging from 8 cents to 34 cents an hour. About one- third, 123, or 33 per cent, were paid from 16 to 19 cents an hour; 97, or 26 per cent, from 12 to 15 cents; 79, or 21.2 per cent, from 20 to 24 cents; 42, or 11.2 per cent, from 8 to 11 cents; and 32, or 8.6 per cent, from 25 to 34 cents. Most of the burlers and all of the menders are females. Both of these occupations require careful work. The work of the menders especially demands great skill, since the perfection of the product depends largely on the character of the mending. In the weaving many breaks occur in the yarn, and knots and lumps in the fabric are the result, and it is the duty of the burlers and menders to rectify these faults. The menders must put in new threads in place of the defective threads left in the weaving and in place of the knots and lumps removed by the burlers. This weaving by hand must be skillfully done and care must be taken to use threads of the right color and quality and to follow the design of the weaving. In addition to employing burlers and menders in the miQ, several establishments have some of the burling and mending done by con- tractors who have at their command especially skilled operatives. The rates of wages paid to the menders in the mills range from 8 cents to 29 cents, as shown by the basic table. More than one-half, 755, or 54.9 per cent, were paid over 16 cents an hour, and only 198, or 1004 BEPOKT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. and Cr *^r*i ^tZ It!^, ^^^^'^ ^^ ,**?*^ ,*° >^o"''- Tw« hundred ana lour or 15 per cent, of the female burlers, received at least ifi r„?,/ ^Th^'' *°^ ^^2' ?' »-3 P«^ <*°t' ^«<^i^«d less than 8 cent* 11 teo^T^ remainmg 1,042 females engaged in this work were STiIS? ^"^ '^*'^^^° *^^ ■■*** ^^P« 12 to 15 cTnteanH The work of the inspectors in the burling and mendinir dpnartmont fhilZ^'^TrlT '^- .Over two-thLsKrmTntOL «nH ZZi'^'t tlu^ P^'' '^°*' received from 20 to 34 cents In hour to W c^te! *""'"'' ^^' "' ^^-^ ^' ^''^- ^«^« P^id fr°«i 16 ■, JJi^ finishing machines arc usually attended bv men 1 2'?n nut nf 1,264 of the machine tenders bpin TTr.it.A States andrecexvina specijied rates based upon actual wiv^^^^JLt„^ IlZtZ puce rates per yarl {ncluMng ordinary stoppages oflTom ^ ^ ^ ^^""^ Earnings per hour. Total. Males. Females. Number. Per cent. Number. Per cent. Number. Percent. Total 1 ^oo 847 eas 545 l,S»Z IUU.U 39.2 w vKuixi Dut less tnan 1 1 cents 11 cents but less than 12 cents 10 0.72 5 28 30 31 31 63 61 82 92 96 73 55 56 38 36 28 19 9 7 6 0.59 5 0.92 12 cents but less than 13 cents 49 56 59 108 106 139 144 160 121 96 84 60 50 37 32 15 9 10 A. «« 3.52 4.02 4.24 7.76 7.61 9.99 10.34 11.49 8.69 6.90 6.03 4.96 3.59 2.66 2.30 1.06 0.65 0.72 3.31 J 6 1.10 IScentsbutless than 14 cents... 8.54 3.66 3.66 7.44 7.20 9.68 10.86 11.33 8.62 6.49 6.61 4.49 4.25 3.31 2.24 1.06 0.83 0.71 19 25 28 45 45 57 62 64 48 41 28 31 14 9 13 6 2 4 3.49 14 cents but less than 15 cents. 4.59 15 cents but less than 16 cents 5.14 16 cents but less than 17 cents . 8.25 17 cents but less than 18 cents . 8.25 18 cents but less than 19 cents . 10.46 19 cents but less than 20 cents . 9.54 20 cents but less than 21 cents 11.74 21 cents but less than 22 cents . 8.81 22 cents but less than 23 cents 7.52 23 cents but less than 24 cents 5.14 24 cents but less than 25 cents 5.69 26 cents but less than 26 cents . 2.57 26 cents but less than 27 cents . 1.65 27 cents but less than 28 cents 2.39 ^ cents but less than 29 cents.. . 1.10 29 cents but less than 30 cents . a 37 30 cents but less than 31 cents 0.73 OA \xu\M uubiess man iz cents. 32 cents but less than .t!l opntQ 3 1 0.22 **'***•• 3' "h kk 33 cents but less than 34 cents 34 cents but less than 35 cents. 35 cents and over ' " " " 0.07 1 0.12 r Average earnings per hour: Males Females ]. All weavers 10.1912 1875 1904 «}.Jw^ii!*'"*''''T^ summary tables for worsted and woolen weavers Table Al.-Numher and percentage of worsted weavers in the United States, by specified rates of earnings per hour and by sex. ' ^ speajiea Bates per hour. Males. Total 10 cents, but less than 15 cents. 15 cents, but less than 20 cents. 20 cents, but less than 25 cents 25 cents, but less than 30 cents. 30 cents and over - Number. 1,400 Percent. Females. Total. 100.0 Number. X| iOji 03 336 671 38 4.5 24.0 47.9 20.9 2.7 Per cent. Number. 100.0 3.182 Percent. 560 31.4 836 46.9 316 17.8 66 3.7 4 0.2 623 1,172 987 358 42 100.0 19.6 36.9 31.0 11.2 1.3 EEPOBT OF TAKIFF BOARD OX SCHEDULE K. 1009' Table 42.— -Number and percentage of woolen weavers in the United States, by specif ed rates of earnings per hour and by sex. m Males. Females. Total. Rates per hour. Number. Per cent of total. Number. Per cent of total. Number. Per cen*. ' Total 847 100.0 545 100.0 1,392 100.0 10 cents but less than 15 cents 125 394 258 G9 1 14.8 46.5 30.5 8.1 0.1 83 263 162 34 3 15.2 48.2 29.7 6.2 0.6 208 657 420 103 4 14.9 15 cents but less than 20 cents 47.2 20 cents but less than 25 cents 30.2 25 cents but less than 30 cents 7.4 30 cents and over 0.3 The detailed and summary tables for worsted weavers by sex show that of the total of 3,182 worsted weavers, 1,400, or 44 per cent, were males and 1,782, or 56 per cent, were females. Nme hundred and sixty-three, or 68.8 per cent, of the male weavers, and 382, or 21.4 per cent of the females, earned 20 cents, but less than 30 cents, per hour, or at the rates of $12 to $18 for 60 hours' work. Three hundred and ninety-nine, or 28.5 per cent of the male weavers, and 1,396, or 78.3 per cent or the female weavers, earned 10 cents per hour and over, but less than 20 cents, or at the rates of $6 to $11.99 for 60 hours' work. The detailed table shows that 4 males and 61 femalea earned 10 cents, but less than 1 1 cents, per hour, and that 63 males, or 4.5 per cent, earned less than 15 cents an nour, while 560 females, or 31.48 per cent, earned less than 15 cents an hour. In the next higher group 336 males, or 24 per cent, and 836 females, or 46.9 per cent, earned 15 cents, but less than 20 cents, an hour. The fact that this table shows the earnings of so large a proportion of females to be lower than the earnings of more than two-thirds of the males while elsewhere the efficiency of worsted female weavers is shown to be greater than the males in 9 of the 18 establishments seems contradictory. In most of the estabUshments, however, where the efficiency of female weavers was greater' than that of the males, the number of females was small. It was also found that many of the female weavers were weaving low-price fabrics, for which earnings would be low, although their relative efficiency might be greater than that of the males. In two worsted mills, where the average earnings of weavers were low, 308 looms were operated by males and 2,853 looms were operated by females. In botn mills the average efficiency was less than 70 per cent, but the females in one of the mills had an efficiency one-hair of 1 per cent higher than that of the males and in the other the female efficiency exceeded that of the males by 2J per cent. In those mills the great majority of the weavers did not earn over $8 per week. The d!etailed and summary table for woolen weavers, by sex, shows that of the total of 1,392 woolen weavers 847, or 60.8 per cent, were males and 545, or 39.2 per cent, were females. Three hundred and twenty-seven, or 38.6 per cent, of the male weavers and 196, or 36.0 per cent, of the females earned 20 cents, but less than 30 cents, per hour, or at the rates of $12 to $18 per 60-hour week. Five hundred and nine- teen, or 61.3 per cent, of tlie male weavers and 346, or 63.5 per cent, of the female weavers earned 10 cents per hour and over, but less than 1010 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD OK SCHEDULE K. 20 cents or at the rates of $6 to 111.99 for 60 hours' work The wl wh^n^^ shows that there were but 10 weavei^, 5 male* and 5 female, who earned 10 cents an hour, and 125 males and 83~females earning 20 cents but less than 30 cents, an hour was greater for the ^T«nH^IVt'l*''*? 'T tl^Voe'e^ weaver, the percentages be n| I-i^^ ^; '.«^?^f*T?^^- ^f ^^^ ^f ™*'«" *^« ^^^^ ^"^the case, as 36.0 per cent of the woolen and 21.4 per cent of the worsted weavers earned 20 cents, but less than 30 ceSts, an hour In some estabhshments the weavers whose earnings in 4 weeks" ^ount to a specified sum and who have not beefabsent from In establishments where premiums were paid the number of weavers Inf *f ^H P/^r""^ ™ f«»-time periods^anged from 10 to 30 j" cent of the total number of weavers. As ap^ed to aU the weaviS S^rrn/LPtl*" P^^^i»^ were equivalent to 5 per cenTon the earnings of each weaver, or 60 cents per week if the earSigs amounted WEAVING PIECK BATES IK WOOLESf AND WORSTED MILLS IN THE UNITED STATES. , The foUowing tables show the piece rates per yard paid for weaving ma number of woolen and woreted milkii the'^uS Stlt^s" Jw f^ P'T'^*! *''^ ?**^ P^^ ^ 12 woolen mills,Tnd Table 44 t^^T^t^^A'^n^'^'^T'^I''^^ ^^"^ prevail in four worsted milLs, and Table 4o the scales of 9 woreted mfils, the first two tables beLoi for one-loom and the last one for two-loom work. ^ WOOLBN QOODS— ONE LOOM TO A WEAVER. Table i3.— Weaving piece price per yard by eatabliihmenU. Nnm- berof picks per inch. Estabrifhinnit— — — No.l. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. No. 9. No. 10. No. 11. Nal2. 17 Cam. Cents. 3.62 CeMs. (knt». CkUi. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. 18 19 4.14 4.24 ""s.'ss' *"*3.'36' \ 20 21 4.34 3.93 3.030 3.806 5.05 *'*3.c6' 'i'.m "z.n I 3.14 1 l".'^'.'. 22 23 4.55 4.14 3.983 4.160 5.45 "3.96" "3.' 90* "4.13' "3. si' 1 24 m 4.65 4. 45 4.55 4.356 4.532 * s.'ts" " i'26" i'w" '■'4."5i' '*'8.*88* "*4.'46' * ' * * 36 27 4.85 4.66 4.86 4.719 4.8SI5 6.15 "' \ 4.50 4.50 "4."89* **"4."26* "4."66' 28 29 i.28 4.96 5.17 5.082 5.258 6.44 ;:::::::| "4." 80' "'4."86" '"'fi.'ie" ■**4.'64" "i'so'i 30 31 L'm 5.27 5.38 5.446 5.621 6.82 6.40 5.90 's.'io" 's.'io' '"i.'fti" '"5.*6i'| 'fi.io' 32 33 i.m 5.48 5.58 S.80B 5.984 7.08 6.60 6.10 "5.40 's.'io '"6.'62' "6.'38"|'"6."46" 34 6.4i 5.69 1 6. 171 i 7.46 6.90 1 "6.'4d 1 "'Xto' "5." 76' "ias" '"5.'77'1 "s.'to'I ------- ■mm BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1011- WOOLEN GOODS — ONE LOOM TO A WEAVER — continued. Table 43. — Weaving piece price per yard hy establishments — Continued. Num- Establisbment— ber of picks per inch. No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. 5. No. 0. No. 7. No. S. No. 9. Cents. No. 10. No. 11. No. 12. Ceras. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cenis. CerUs. Cents. CerOs. Cents. Cents. 35 5.79 6.89 6.347 6.534 36 6.72 7.71 7.30 6.70 6.00 6.00 6.76 6.14 6.00 37 6.05 6.21 6.710 6.897 38 7.14 8.07 7.60 7.00 6.30 6.30 7.15 6.51 6.30 39 6.57 C.72 7.073 7.260 40 7.55 8.31 7.90 7.30 6. GO 6.60 7.52 6.89 6.60 6.60 41 6.83 7. 09 7.436 7.G23 42 7.86 8.67 8.30 ^7.60 6.80 6.80 7.89 7.27 6.80 6.90 43 7.08 8.00 7.799 7.986 44 8.27 8.88 . 8.60 . 7.90 7.10 7.10 8.27 7.64 7.10 7.20 45 8.162 8.349 46 8.69 7.76 9.23 8.90 , 8.20 . 7.40 7.40 8.65 8.02 7.40 7.50 47 8.525 8.712 48 9.00 7.96 9.42 , 9.30 , 8.50 . 7.70 7.70 9.02 8.40 7.70 7.80 49 8.888 9.075 50 9.31 8.28 9.77 9.60 8.80 7.90 7.90 9.40 8.77 8.00 8.10 52 9.72 8.48 9.438 10.11 9.90 9.10 8.20 8.20 9.78 9.15 8.30 8.40 54 10.13 8.79 9.801 10.46 10.40 9.60 8.40 8.40 10.15 9.53 8.70 8.70 56 10.44 9.00 10.164 10.80 10.70 9.80 8.70 8.70 10.52 9.90 9.00 9.00 58 10.96 9.31 10.527 11.15 11.00 10.10 8.90 8.90 10.90 10.27 9.30 9.30 60 11.27 9.62 10.890 11.50 11.30 10.40 9.10 9.10 11.28 10.64 9.60 9.60 62 11.58 9.83 11.253 11.85 11.70 10.70 9.40 11.65 11.02 9.90 64 12.10 10.14 11.616 12.19 12.00 11.00 9.60 12.03 11.40 10.20 66 12.41 11.979 12.54 12.30 11.30 9.90 12.40 11.78 10.50 68 12.72 12.342 12.87 12.80 11.70 10.10 12.78 12.16 10.80 70 13.13 12.705 13.23 13.10 12.00 10.30 13.16 12.53 11.10 72 13.54 13.068 13.57 13.40 12.30 10.60 13.54 12.90 11.40 74 13.431 13.93 13.80 12.00 10.90 13.91 13.28 11.70 76 13.794 14.27 14.10 12.90 11.20 14.28 13.66 12.00 78 1 14. 157 14.520 14.62 14.96 15.31 15.65 16.01 16.35 16.70 17.04 17.39 17.73 18.08 18.43 18.78 19.12 19.47 14.40 14.90 15.20 15.50 15.90 16.20 16.50 16.80 17.30 17.60 17.90 18.30 18.60 18.90 19.30 13.20 13.60 13.90 14.20 14.50 14.80 15.10 15.40 15.80 16.10 16.40 16.70 17.00 17.30 17.60 11.50 11.80 14.66 15.04 15.41 15.79 16.16 16.54 16.92 17.30 17.67 18.04 18.42 18.80 14.03 14.41 14.79 15.16 15.54 15.92 16.29 16.66 17.05 17.42 17.80 18.18 12 30 80 82 84 1 86 1 88 1 90 1 1 92 i 94 1 ; 96 98 100. . . . ....:;:.! 102.... 1 104.... ::;:::::i:::::':: :;;: 106....' 1 No. 1.— Speed of looms, 90 to 96 picks per minute. Ten per cent additional paid for l\ run and heavier filling. A premium ranging from 5 per cent on earnings of $40 for 4 weeks to 26 per cent on earnings of 160 for 4 weeks is also paid. No. 2.— Speed of looms, 86 to 95 picks per minute. Two mills additional i>aid for each shuttle above 4. No. 3.— Speed of looms, 94 picks per minute. Five mills additional paid for IJ run or less filling and for 6 or more shuttles. Also 5 mills additional for fancy cloakings and suitings. No. 4.— Speed of looms, 98 picks per minute. No. 5.— Speed of looms, 90 picks per minute. One-half cent additional paid for 5 shuttles or more and when warp contains mohair. One cent additional paid for 14 to 19 harness work and 2 cents additional lor 20 harness and over. No. 6.— Speed of looms, 90 to 96 picks per minute. Three mills additional paid for each shuttle above 4 when more than one colored filling is used. No. 7.— Speed of looms, 92 to 110 picks per minute. No. 8.— Speed of looms, 90 picks per minute. One-half cent additional paid for 5 shuttles or more and When warp contains mohair. One cent additional paid for 14 to 19 harness work and 2 cents additional for 20 harness and over. No. 9.— Speed of looms, 90 picks per minute. A premium is paid ranging from 5 per cent on earnings of 137.40 for 4 weeks to 10 and 17 per cent on earnings of $57.20. No. 10.— Speed of looms, 100 to 1 10 picks per minute. A premium is paid ranging from 5 per cent on earn- ings of $37.40 for 4 weeks to 10 and 17 per cent on earnings of $57.20. No. 11.— Speed of looms, 95 to 100 picks per minute. No. 12.— Speed of looms, 100 to 105 picks per minute. 1012 KEPOBT OP TARIFF BOABD 01^ SCHEDULE K. WORSTED GOODS — ONE LOOM TO A WEAVER. Table 44, — Weaving piece price per yard, by establishments. Number of picks per inch. m 32. 24 26 28. 30. 32. 34. 36. 38. 40. 41. 42. 43 44. 45. 46. 47- 18. 49. 50. 51. 62. 63. 54. 65. 66., 67.. 68.. 69.. 60.. 61.. 62.. 63-. 64.. 65.. 67. .. 68... 69... 70... 72... 74... 76. . . 78... 80... 82... 84--. 86... 88.-. 90... 92... 94... 96... INj. « . 100.. 102.. 104.. 106.- 108.. 110- . 112.. 114- . 116.- 118.. 120.. <. . . Establishments- No. 1. No. 2. Cents. 6.00 6.20 6.30 6.50 6.m 6.80 6.90 7.10 7.20 7.40 7.50 7.70 7.80 8.00 8.10 8.25 8.40 8.50 8.70 8.90 9.00 9.20 9.30 9.50 9.(;o 9.80 9.90 10.10 10.20 10.40 10.50 Cmta. 4.05 4.45 4.75 5.15 6.44 5.82 ao8 6. 40 6.71 7.07 7.31 7.88 '8.23 8.42 '8*77 'i'ii 9.46 *9.'86' 10.15 io.hb' io.'si' ii-'ig' ii"54' 'ii.'87' 'i2.'23" 12.57 12.93 13.27 13.62 13.96 14.31 14.65 15.01 15.35 15.70 16.04 16.39 16.73 17.08 17.43 17.78 18.12 18.47 18.81 19.16 19.50 19.86 20.20 20.55 20.89 No. 3. Centt. 4.09 4.51 4.82 6.23 6.53 5.92 6.19 6.59 6.85 7.22 7.47 7.84 "i'oe' 8.42 *8.'62 8.98 'e.'aa "9."e9' 10.05 "i6.'4i 10.77 ii.'ii "ii.'49' ii.'ss "*i2."26' 'ii'se' 12.92 13.29 13.64 14.00 14.35 14.72 15.07 15.44 15.79 1&16 16.51 16.87 17.22 17.69 17.95 18.31 18.66 19.03 19.38 19.74 20.09 20.47 20.82 21.18 21.53 No. 4. Cents. , 3.95 4.36 4.6S . 5.05 5.34 5.72 5.98 6.36 I 6.61 6.97 7.21 7.57 7.78 8.13 '8.'32 8.67 9.01 9.36 "9.' 70 '16.05 10.40 "16*75 "11.09 "11.' 44 "11.' 78 ■ • • • ■ ■ . 12.13 12. 47 12.83 13.17 13.62 13.86 14.21 14.55 14.91 15.25 15.60 15.94 16.29 16.63 16.98 17.33 17.68 18.02 18.37 18.71 19.06 19.40 19.76 20.10 20.45 20.79 No. 1.— Speed of looms, 90 to 100 picks per minute. No" 3"-sSSd o l^ml' mFt^lFl\ T"'"**^= * ^""^ P^"" y^^ additional paid for fancy weave. picks p^r miSit?. ^ ^ additional paid for fancy weaves and on all looms running less than 100 ■! !!! Ml. 111! ■■■■Ill EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1013 WORSTED GOODS — TWO LOOMS TO A WEAVER. Table 45. — Weaving piece price per yard, by establishments. Establishment — # Number of picks per inch. No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. No. 9. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. CeiUs. 20 1.80 1.63 1.79 1.95 1.18 1.29 1.42 1.41 1.54 1.69 22 24 25 2.26 26 . . 2.10 2.28 1.53 1.67 1.82 1.98 28 2.40 1.69 29 1.70 1.76 30 2.60 2.80 3.46 2.44 1.78 2.ii 1.82 31 1.87 32 2.80 2.90 3.50 2.60 1.91 2.26 1.93 33 2.00 2.00 34 3.66 3.60 2.77 2.02 2.39 2.06 35 3.16 2.12 36 2.10 3.10 3.70 2.93 2.13 2.64 2.19 37 . 2.23 38 . 3.00 3.30 3.90 3.10 2.26 2.68 2.30 39 2.38 40 3.50 2.40 3.10 3.50 4.00 3.26 2.38 2.83 2.42 41 2.49 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 60 51 52 53 64 65 56 67 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 3.70 2.56 3.36 3.66 4.16 3.42 2.50 2.96 2.55 2.60 2.66 2.73 2.79 2.85 2.90 2.96 3.03 3.09 3.15 3.22 3.26 3.33 3.39 3.52 3.57 3.63 3.69 3.76 3.82 3.88 3.93 ■y.m "2." 80' "3.' 40 "3.' 76' *4.'26" "3.' 58 "'2.61' 3.10 ""3.' go" ""3.96" "4.' 46' "3.' 74' "2.' 73 "3.' 24 '"4.26" "'3*66' "3.' 76' ""4." 66 "4.' 66' "3.' 96 "2.' 85' "3.' 38 "3.16' "*3.'96 '4." 26* '4.' 86 "4.' 08 '2.' 97 "3.' 53 "4.' 50 "3.' 26" 4.00 "*4.'46' "'"4.' 66 4.24 ""3.'69' "3.' 67 "4.' 86' "'4.' 16" "*4."56" "5.' 66 '"4.' 46 '3.' 26' "i'so" "s.'-io' '"4.' 46' ""4." 76' '5.' 26' "4.' 46 *3."32' '"*3."95' '"4." 56" "4." 96' '"'5.' 46' "4.' 71" '3.' 44' """4.68" "5.' 66' "3.' 76' "4." 76' "*5.'66' '5.' 66' '"'4.' 89' "3.' 56' "'"4.'23' "*4.'86' '"5.16" ""5.' 76' 5.64 "3.' 68" '"4."36 "4.66 '"'6.'66' "'5.' 36' "'5.96' "5.22 " "s.'so" "'4.' 52 65 4.00 66 67 68 69 70 5.26 5.50 6.16 6.38 3.91 4.65 4.06 4.12 4.19 4.25 4.30 "4.' 26' "5.'36' "5.' 76' "6.' 26' "5.54' "4.64' "'4.'8a" "6.' 76" ""5.' 66' "'5.' 96' '""6." 56" 5.70 "4.I5' """4.' 93' 71 4.36 72 4.56 5.80 6.16 6.76 5.86 4.27 5.07 4.42 73 4.49 74 7.16 6.66 6.36 6.96 6.63 4.40 5.22 4.55 76 6.20 - 6.50 7.10 6.18 4.52 4.35 78 6.30 6.70 7.20 6.36 4.64 5.50 80 4.90 6.50 6.90 7.40 6.51 4.75 5.63 82 6.70 7.00 7.60 6.68 4.88 5.78 84 8.66 5.26 6.90 7.20 7.80 6.84 4.99 5.91 86 7.10 7.50 8.00 7.00 5.12 6.06 88 7.30 7.70 8.20 7.17 5.23 6.20 90 7.50 7.90 8.40 7.32 5.34 6.34 92 7.70 8.00 8.50 7.49 94 7.90 8.20 8.70 7.65 96 8.00 8.30 8.90 7.82 98 8.20 8.50 9.10 7.97 100 8.40 8.80 9.30 8.14 102 9.50 104 9.70 ofWkorvo IT r^.... •> 1 <>t1 t iTk 1 n f v> a42, G2-2, vol 2 2G 1014 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. WORSTED GOODS-^WO LOOMS TO A WEAVER--€Ontinued. Table 45.~Wmmng piece price per yard, by establishments-Contmued. 4 Number of picks per inch. Establishment- No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. No. 9. 106 108 ""'.'''"■ Cents. Cents. Cents. 9.00 Cents. 9.30 9.40 9.80 Cents. 9.90 10.00 10.40 10.80 11.10 Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. 112 116 :."; 120 9.50 ^o- l-fP^ '" V" "-'"■ "■» extra for every dollar over «48 """"'""^ premium oj 5 per cent is paid tor earnings oJ $48 anS 1 per cent l>&^7^S.t aUoweTfeJfvfr^llSSTorlr^'™'' "'™' "'"' "'""^'^ J>^"» "^ '" °'"= '■ "--P' '"^t «tehtswg:S'nL'lSTi"'F„tpiS".X?ct wk^^^ ^,""'°'«- "" "--vy g2^d, »d .yea eents ,.r yard lo?cach 1& l^'.^tif ^^l^^^J^^^^ eJnT^.^'.Sffp^aKrSS In the United States the ahnost universal method of payment of weavers IS by the piece— a fixed rate per yard— with no pavCnt for ime lost by the weaver through no fault of his, as in the S^f wits for warps, filhng or for repairs of loom. However, when weaW patterns or samples the weaver is paid a fixed hourly rate ''^''^ th^ L^hZZ'lW^' y^'^P^ilo a weaver varies primarUy with the number of picks per inch m the fabric, the speed of the loom and the number of looms operated. These kre the^principal factora footnotes to T«hlil.°'5r**VT=' *" 7^" ^*' ^^f" ^^^ '•''^''•■ence to the S sCtflL fL . f '^ti *°r,r ^' «"<'^«« number of harness, number of shuttles, the color of the filhng, and the kind of filling. In some mills however, these smaller factors are not considered, ^hen a'^^ost universally attends one loom, so the data are shown in Table 4.3 for one-loom work only ^onTT ?^f ° the footnotes discloses the fact thatin the several establish ments the speeds of the looms vary considerably. EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 1015 To show the range of piece rates paid for weaving woolen goods, take the rates shown for a fabric having 60 picks per inch. The basic prices paid j)er yard are as follows : Establishment. No. 4 No. 5 No.tl No. 1 No. 3 No. 6 Piece Speed of price per yard looms (picks per (cents). minute). 9.77 98 9.00 90-110 9.40 90 9.31 90-9(i 9.075 94 8.80 90 Establishment. No. 10. No. 2.. No. 12. No. 11. No. 7.. No. 8.. Piece price per yard (cents.) 8.77 8.28 8.10 8.00 7.90 7.90 Speed of looms (picks per minute). 100-110 m- 95 100-105 95-100 90- 95 92-110 The above tabular statement shows that the rates for weaving a 50-pick woolen fabric range from 7.90 cents per yard to 9.77 cents — a difference of nearly 2 (1.87) cents per yard, which is indicative of the general range shown for all classes of woolen fabrics. It is apparent also that in the case of woolen fabrics the speed of the looms is larplv a negligible factor in so far as it affects the piece grice, for the tabular statement shows that several of the mills paying igh rates have slower looms than several mills which pay low rates. The prevailing method^ of weaving worsted goods is to assign a weaver to two looms, but in many cases, especially where a fine fabric or a fabric difficult to weave is to be made, a weaver will attend only one loom. In Table 44 price fists of piece rates paid to worsted weavers operating one loom are shown for four establishments. Table 44 shows that the rates for weaving in establisliments 2, 3, • and 4 are approximately the same on all fabrics — from those having only 20 picks per inch to those having 120 picks per inch. The greatest difference shown in any case is only 6 miUs per yard, wliile m most cases the variance is only 3 to 4 mills. But the rates paid in estabfishment 1 are uniformly from If cents to over 2 cents lower than those paid in the other three estabfishments. The footnotes to Table 44 show that the speed of the looms in the several mills was approximately the same — about 100 picks per minute. 1016 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. KEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 1017 CARDED WOOL MULE SPINNEBS' PIECE RATES FOR SPINNING WARP YARN IN THE UNITED STATES. The following table shows the piece price per 100 pounds of warp yam paid spinners operating one mule of 240, 288, 300, 340, 360, 380, 400, and 440 spindles each and producing various sizes of yarn from seven-eighths run to 8 J runs, for a number of establishments: Table 4Q.— Piece price per 100 pounds of vmrp yam paid spinners operating one mule. Mules of 240 spin- dles in estab- lishmeAt. Mules of 288 spindles In establishment. No.l. No. 2. 10. 7178 .7292 .7518 .7860 .8317 .9113 .9683 1.0596 1. 1392 1. 1734 1.1963 1.2533 1.3215 1.3443 1.3672 1.4354 1.4810 1.5152 Xm uHltVv 10.621 .683 745 .807 .910 1.6291 1.7432 1.8684 2.0279 2.0621 2.1532 2.2899 2.4379 2.5634 2.7229 2.9848 3.1443 3.2696 3.4065 3.5204 .983 No. 3.' 1.045 1.128 1.21 to. 605 .616 .638 .671 .693 .748 .803 .891 .979 1.001 1.034 1.100 1.222 1.144 1.188 1.232 No. 4.a Mules of 300 spindles fa establisiunent. No. 1.* No. 2.« 10.74 .75 .78 .83 .85 • «f 4b • iftr 1.10 1.17 1.21 1.27 1.28 1.35 1.39 1.41 1.46 1.53 1.26 I 1.298 i 1.60 1.314 1.353 1.386 1.441 1.47 1.53 1*593 1.656 1.76 1.562 1.672 "i.'793' 1.903 2.024 1.67 1.79 1.94 2.08 2.'26' 2.37 «• 52 1.80 1.863 1.925 2.09 2.214 2.328 2.484 2.535 2.597 2.887 3.04 3. 29 3.539 3.798 2.145 2.255 2.486 i!>* 0«fCl 2.717 2.827 2.65 2.79 3.08 3.37 3.51 0.70 .71 .76 .79 .82 .89 .95 1.05 1.12 1.16 1.18 1.23 1.29 1.32 1.35 1.40 1.46 1.52 1.59 1.71 1.84 1.98 2.*i2 2.26 2.39 2.53 2.66 2.94 3.07 3.21 3.34 $0.68 .73 .77 .80 .85 .88 .92 .97 1.00 1.05 1.08 1.13 1.19 1.24 1.30 1.34 1.40 1.45 1.51 1.56 1.61 1.66 1.72 1.77 1.83 1.93 i'oi' 2.13 2.24 2.31 2.38 2.51 2.64 2.77 2.90 3.04 3.17 3.30 3.43 3.56 3.70 3.83 No. 3.» 10.74 .75 .78 .83 .85 .92 .99 1.10 1.17 1.21 1.27 1.28 1.35 1.39 1.41 1.46 1.53 No. 4. SO. 621 .683 .745 ".'807 Mules of 340 spin- dles in establisli- ment. No. l.» No. 2. .910 "983 1.045 i.'i28 i.'2i"' l.GO 1.26 1.67 1.314 1.79 2.06 ■2.'26 2.37 2.52 '2."65' 2.79 3.08 3.22 3.37 3.51 1.386 10.62 .64 .71 .78 .83 .92 1.01 1.04 1.07 1.14 1.16 1.18 1.23 1.27 1.35 1.40 i.'49' $0,805 No. 3. i .855 .95 1.01 1.065 1.165 i.*26' 1.35 i.*435 1.54 i.'es' 1.47 1.53 " 1.593 1.656 1.76 "i.'so" 1.863 1.925 2.09 2.214 2.328 2.484 2.5.35 2.597 2.887 3.04 3.29 3.539 3.798 1.62 1.73 1.85" 1.97 2.09 '2"22" 2.34 2.58 2.69 2.82 2.93 1.73 i.'84* $0,621 '".'083 "'.'745 "'.867 "".'916 "".*983 'i.645 "l.'i*2' 1*26' i.'sii ' 1.388 "i.'47*, 1.53 j ' 1.593 1.656 1.76 f i'm 1.863 1.925 2.09 2.214 2.328 2.484 2.535 2.597 2.887 3.04 3.29 3.539 3.798 Note.— When a spinner attends a pair of mules with a small number of spindles each, he is not paid at the above rate, but is given a special rate, which Is sUghtly under double the rate for attending one mule. » A premium of 5 per cent paid to spinners earning 143.60 and over in a period of four weeks. « A premium of 5 per cent paid to spinners earning $43.60 and over in a period of four weeks. With helper on yarn of 1 J run and coarser, 10 per cent of regular spinners' price is deducted. • A premium of 5 per cent paid to spinners earning $48 and over in a period of four weeks. With helper on yarn of 1| run and coarser, 10 per cent of regular spinners' price is deducted. Table 46. — Piece price per JOG pounds of warp yarn paid spinners operating one mule — Continued. 1 Size of Mules of 300 spindles in establishment. Mules of 380 spin- dles in establish- ment. Mules of 400 spin- dles in establish- ment. Mules of 440 spindles in establishment. yarn. No.l. No.2.1 No.3.« No.4.1 No.l. No.2.1 No.3.1 No.l. No.2.1 N0.3. No.l. No.2.1 No.3.2 N0.4. ! 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 21 2 2 3 lum. $0,506 .532 .559 .585 .613 .639 .692 .746 .799 .851 .878 .905 .945 .984 1.012 1.050 1.0S9 1.133 1.177 1.221 1.266 1.309 1.353 $0,506 : $0.6722 .6836 .7063 .7405 .7747 .8430 .90 .9912 1.0595 1.0937 1.1165 1.1621 1.2304 1.2532 1.2760 1.3329 1.3785 1.4127 1.4469 $0.62 .64 .66 .69 .71 .78 .83 .92 .98 1.01 1.04 1.07 1.14 1.16 1.18 1.23 1.27 '1.'35* $0.61 .64 .67 .70 .74 .77 .81 .85 .88 .91 .95 .99 1.05 1.09 1.13 1.18 1.22 1.28 1.32 1.36 1.41 1.45 1.51 1.55 1.60 $0.61 .62 .64 .67 .69 .75 .80 .89 .95 .98 1.00 1.03 1.10 1.12 1.14 1.19 1.23 i.'so' $0.0380 .6494 .6722 .7063 .7291 .7975 .8545 .9456 1.0026 1.0367 1.0595 1.1051 1.1621 1.1848 1.2076 1.2646 1.3102 1.3386 1.3671 $0.59 .60 .62 .66 .68 .75 .80 .88 .93 .97 .99 1.03 1.08 1.11 1.13 1.17 1.22 $0.61 .62 .64 .67 .69 .75 .80 .89 .95 .98 1.00 1.03 1.10 1.12 1.14 1.19 1.23 $0.6323 .6437 .6665 .7007 .7234 .7861 .8430 .9342 .9912 1.0253 1.0481 1.0880 1.1507 1.1734 1.1962 1.2475 1.2931 1.3244 1.3557 $0.59 .60 .62 .66 .68 .75 .80 .88 .93 .97 .99 1.03 1.08 1.11 1.13 1.17 1.22 "i."27* $0.6266 .6380 .6608 .6950 .7177 .7747 .8317 .9228 .9798 1.0140 1.0367 1.0709 1. 1393 1. 1621 1.1848 1.2304 1.2760 1.3102 1.3443 $0.59 .60 .62 .66 .68 .75 .80 .88 .93 .97 .99 1.03 1.08 1.11 1.13 1.17 1.22 '1*27' $0.57 .61 .64 .67 .70 .74 .77 .80 .84 .87 .90 .95 .99 1.03 1.00 1.12 1.17 1.21 1.25 1.30 1.34 1.39 1.43 1.47 1.52 .532 .559 .585 .613 .639 .692 .746 .799 .851 .878 .905 .945 .984 .998 1.012 1.050 1.089 1.133 3j 1.27 1.30 1.177 1 221 i 1.5152 "l.'ens' 1.40 '1.'49' 1.35 "l.U 1.4355 'i."5266' 1.34 'i.'43" 1.35 *1.'44' 1.4184 *i."6695" 1.34 "i.'43' 1.4013 1.34 1.265 1.309 i 1.4924 1.43 1.353 4..... 4}.... 1.7431 1.62 1.56 1.6519 1.53 1.56 1.6349 1.53 1.540 1.600 1.660 1.720 1.780 1.840 1.900 1.960 2.020 2.080 2.140 2.200 2.260 2.320 2.380 2.440 2.500 2.560 2.620 2.680 2.740 2.800 2.860 2.920 2.980 3.040 3.100 3.160 3.220 3.280 3.340 3.400 3.460 3.580 3.700 1.6178 1.53 1.540 1.600 4 4 1.8798 1.9254 2.0051 1.73 1.68 1.67 1.7773 1.8342 1.9026 1.66 1.67 1.7545 1.8114 1.8798 1.66 'i.'76' 1.7317 1.7887 1.8570 1.66 1.61 1.660 1.720 4 1.85 1.78 1.79 1.76 1.79 1.76 1.69 1.780 1 840 4 4 5 6 5 6 5 6 2.1304 1.97 1.87 1.90 2.0165 1.87 1.90 1.9937 1.87 1.9709 1.87 1.78 1.900 1 960 2.2671 2.09 1.97 2.02 2.08 2.02 2.1418 2.00 2.02 2.1190 2.00 2.0963 2.00 1.87 1.93 1.98 2.020 2 080 2.3925 2.22 2.15 2.2671 2.10 2.15 2.2444 2.10 2.2216 2.10 2.140 2.200 2.5292 '2.7798' '2.9m "3.1672' 3.' 2925* 2.34 '2.' 58" '2.'69' '2.' 82' "2.' 93' 2.20 'i'sl' "2."43' '2.'54' "2." 66* '2."77' *2.'89' 2.26 '2.'49' '2." 60" 2.' 72' 'i'ss" 2.3925 "i'esir 2. 7570 '2.'8824' "2.'9963" '3." 1162' 2.23 2.'44" '2.' 57* '2."67' '2.' 80* 2.26 "2."49" "i'eo" '2.' 72' 'i'ss' 2.3640 '2."6632" '2.* 7229* * 2." 8482* '2." 9621* *3.'6766' 2.23 *2."44 "2.'57' '2.' 67* *2.'86' 2.3355 2.23 2.09 2.260 2.320 fi .... 5 .... 2.5748 2.44 2.20 2.380 2.440 6 .... 6*.... 2.6887 2.57 2.31 2.500 2.560 « .... 6 .... 2.8140 2.67 2.42 2.620 2.680 6 .... 6 .... 6 .... 2.9279 2.80 2.53 2.740 2.800 3.0646 2.64 2.860 2.920 7 .... 2.75 2.980 7 3 040 7 3.00 2.86 3.100 3 160 7i 7 3.12 2.97 3.220 3 280 7 *•-••• 7 3.23 3.08 3.340 3 400 7 8 8i 8j ........ 3.36 3.19 3.460 3 580 \.... 1 ^... ...... 1 3.700 1 1 1 A premium of 5 per cent paid to spfainers earning $48 and over In a period of four weeks. » A premium of 5 per cent paid to spinners earning $43.00 and over in a period of four weeks, helper on yam of If run and coarser, 10 per cent of regular spinners' price is deducted. With II 1018 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAHD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K, 1019 CARDED WOOL MULE SPINXERS' PIECE KATES FOR SPINNING FILLING YARN IX THE UNITED STATES. Table 47. — Piece price per 100 pounds of filling yarn paid spinners operating one mule — Continued . till The following table shows the piece price per 100 pounds of filling yam paid spinners operating one mule of 240, 288, 300, 340, 360, 380, 400, and 440 spindles each and producing various sizes of yarn from i run to 8i runs, for a number of establishments: Table 47.--i*i€CC prw€ per 100 pounds ofjiUing yam paid spinners oik rating one mule. Size of yam. Mules of 240 spin- dles in estabiish- ment. Mules of 2KS spin«lles in eiilablishiiieiit. Mules of SriO spindles in ©stablisluiicnt. Runs. 1 ■■■ii li It, T 11 2 No. 10.77 • 78 .m 1.03 1.07 1.15 1.17 1.21 1.26 1.30 1.32 1.36 1.39 1. 44 "Lm i'n i'.m 2.01 2.30 2.45 No. •2 t No. 3.a 2. TO 2, 74 3.04 3.33 3.49 JO. 73 .79 .83 • o< .91 .96 1.00 1.00 1.03 1.08 1.11 1. IS 1.23 1.28 l:h 1.39 1.44 1.51 1. 54 l.Gl 1.68 1.72 1.77 1.82 1.87 1.99 '2.69' x*!20 2.39 2.44 2.59 2.72 3. 00 3.15 3.29 3.41 3.58 3.72 4.00 to. 74 .75 .78 .83 .85 .92 .99 1.03 1.10 1.13 1.17 1.22 1.27 1.28 1.31 1.34 1.39 L53 No. 1. 1.65 i'iit' 1.94 2.'(»8' 2.20 2.37 to. 7178 .72M .7318 ,7860 ,8317 .9113 .9683 1.0596 1.1164 1. 1392 1.1S49 1.2419 1.2533 1.2645 1.2863 1.3443 1.3M3 1. 1242 L48io No. 2.* No. 3.1 2-51 2.ti(5 2.94 3.08 3.22 3.37 1.6063 i'7«2 1.84J84 1.9368 2.0279 2. 1532 2.2809 2-4379 2.5748 2.8596 2.9848 3. 1443 3.2696 3.3951 to. 74 .75 .78 .83 .8,5 .99 1.03 1.10 1.13 1.17 1.22 L27 1-2H 1.31 1.34 1.39 i.'45* L53' 1.65 1^79" 1.94 •i.og' 2.20 2.37 10.605 ,616 .638 .671 .693 • 4 48 .803 .847 .891 .924 .94^ .99 1.033 1.034 1.0*i7 1.089 1-122 i.'i77' i'.m No. 4. to. 569 ".Hi" r45 .H48 ".'%2 ".m No. i.» 2.51 2.65 2.94 3.08 3.22 3.37 1.441 1.562 i'672' 1.793 1.903 1.043 "ilm llil" "i.m 2.024 2.134 2.365 2.48i6 2.717 1.314 i.386' 1.47 1* KhS 1.552 1.656 1.76 1.80 1.863 1.925 2.09 2.214 2. 328 2.484 2.5:J5 2.597 2.887 3-04 3.29 3.5.19 10.70 .71 .76 .79 « Om .89 .95 .99 1.05 1.10 1.12 1.17 1.21 1.23 1.25 1.27 1.33 i.'39" 1.46" No. ... ' 1.57 i.7i 1.84 1 'IS 2.12 2.26 mm tlif 2.53 2.81 2.94 3.07 3.21 to. 68 .73 .77 .80 .85 .88 .92 .92 .99 .99 1.03 1-08 1.16 1.18 1.23 1.28 1.33 1.39 1.43 1.47 1.53 1.58 1.64 1.67 1.73 1.84 2.04 2.13 2.20 2.2« 2.39 2-51 2.64 2.77 2.90 3.04 3.17 3.30 3.43 3.5 - • • • .62 .683 r45 1.76 1.80 1.863 1.925 2.09 2.214 2.328 2.484 2.5.35 2.597 2.887 3.04 3.29 3.539 1.22 "i.'-if i.38" L49' 1.62 V.Zi' 1.8.5 1.97 1.115 i'.m i.'26' 1*35' 1.435 Lsi' L63' i/73' .848 .962 ".'983 i."645 1*128 2.09 2.21 2.44 2.58 2. 69 2.82 1.21 'i"273 i'.'i'u 1.386 1.47 I.'m' 1.552 1.656 1.76 1.80 1.863 1.925 2.09 2. 214 2. 328 2.484 2.535 2.597 2.887 3.04 3.29 3.539 NoTK.— When a spinner attends a pair of mules with a small number of spindles each he is not mid at the above rate but is given a special rate which is slightly under double the rate for attending 1 mule. 1 A premium of 5 per cent Is paid to spinners eamiog S43.60 and over in a period of 4 weeks. >.i premium of 3 per cent is paid to spinners earning t41.6f) and over in a period of 4 weeks, AVarp price list paid for ftliing having warp twist, with helper on yam of If run and coarser 5 per cent of regular filling price is deducted. «— » » 3 A premium of 5 per cent is paid to spinners earning t4S and over in a period of 4 weeks. * A premium of 5 per cent is p iM to spinners earniajj S48 and over in a period of 4 weeks. Warp price list paid for filliug having warp twist. With helper on yarn of 1^ run and coarser 5 per cent of regular fiUing price is deducted. *» * Size of Mules of 360 spindles In establishment. Mules of 380 spin- dles in establish- ment. Mules of 400 spindles iu establishment. Mules of 440 spindles In establishment. yarn. No. 1. No. 2.1 No. 3.» No. 4.1 No. 1. No. 2.1 No. 3.1 No. 1. No. 2.1 No. 3. No. 1. No. 2.1 Q 2 rs 0. 4. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 4i 4 4] ii ^uns. $0.46 .484 .508 .532 .557 .581 .629 .678 .726 .774 .798' .823 .859 .895 .907 .920 .955 .990 1 030 $0.46 .484 .508 .532 .557 .581 .629 .678 .726 .774 .798 .823 .859 .895 .907 .920 .955 .990 1.030 1.070 1.110 1.150 1.190 1.230 "1.'43' 1.49 1.55 1.61 1.67 1.73 1.79 1.85 1.91 1.97 2.03 2.09 2.15 2.21 2.27 2 33 ..... ..... '.'.'... • . - - . $0.0722 ,6836 .7063 .7405 .7747 .8430 .9000 .9342 .9912 1.0367 1.0595 1.1051 1.1507 1.1621 1.1848 1.2076 1.2,532 1.2874 1.3216 $0.02 .64 .66 .69 .71 .78 .83 .88 .92 .95 .98 1.03 1.06 1.08 1.11 1.13 1.16 '1.'22" $0.61 .64 .67 .70 .74 .77 .81 .81 .84 .87 .90 .95 .99 1.02 1.08 1.12 1.17 1.21 1.24 1.30 1.34 1.39 1.43 1.46 1.52 $0.01 .62 .64 .67 .69 .75 .80 .85 .89 .92 .95 .99 1.02 1.03 1.07 1.09 1.12 l.'ls $0,638 .649 .672 .706 .729 .797 .854 .888 .945 .979 1.002 1.048 1.093 1.105 1.127 1.150 1.184 1.219 1.253 $0.59 .60 .62 .66 .68 .75 .80 .83 .88 .91 .93 .98 1.01 1.03 1.05 1.07 1.11 $0.61 .62 .64 .67 .69 .75 .80 .85 .89 .92 .95 .99 1.02 1.03 1.07 1.09 1.12 $0.0323 .64.37 .6065 .7007 .7234 .7861 .8430 .8829 .9342 .9684 .9912 1.0367 1.0766 1.0880 1.1165 1.1393 1.1734 1.2047 1.2361 $0.59 .60 .62 .66 .68 .75 .80 .83 .88 .91 .93 .98 1.01 1.03 1.05 1.07 1.11 $0.6266 .6380 .6608 .6950 .7177 .7747 .8317 .8772 .9228 .9570 .9798 1.0253 1.0595 1.0709 1.1051 1.1279 1. 1621 1. 1905 1.2190 $0.59 .60 .62 .66 .68 .75 .80 .83 .88 .91 .93 .98 1.01 1.03 1.05 1.07 1.11 i.'le" $0.57 .61 .64 .67 .70 .74 .77 .77 .79 .ai .86 .90 .95 .98 1.02 1.07 1.11 1.16 1.19 1.23 1.28 ' 1 QO 1.16 1.18 1.16 1.070 1.110 1.3785 1.27 1.23 1.310 1.22 1.23 1.2931 1.22 1.150 1 190 1.2760 'i.'37S5' ' 1.4924' 1.22 • » . * • 1.4924 'i.'6i78" 1.38 '1.'49' 1.33 'i.'44' 1.412 'l."526' L32 "i.'42' 1.33 i."44' 1.3956 i.'sogs" 1.32 'i'42' 1.230 'i.'43"' 1 49 1.32 1.36 1.40 1.42 [ 1.44 1. 7431 l.SOOl 1.8798 2.6651' '2*1364' 1.62 1.01 1.56 1.651 1.708 1.777 'i.'962" '2.'6i6* 1.53 1.66 1.6349 1.6861 1.7545 "i."8798" 'i."9937' 1.53 'i.'oe' 'i.'76' 'i."87' 1.55 1.61 1.67 1.73 1.79 1.85 1.91 1.97 2.03 2.09 2.15 2.21 2.27 2.33 1.6178 1.6634 1. 7317 "1.'8576' 1.9m 1.53 1 1.5.1 1 1.73 l.'ss' 'i.'97' 1.68 I.'ts' '1.'87' 1.93 1.98 "2.'69' 2.' 26" "2.31* 1.67 I.'to' i'w 1.66 "l."76' '1:87' 1.67 l."79' "i.'go" 1.66 'l."76" '1.'87' 1.01 'l."69" 'i.'re' 1.84 1.88 'i.'99 '2.09' 5 6 6 6 5 6i '- ■ «> . . 2.2671 '2."3925" 2.6545 '2,"7798' 2.09 '2.' 21" 2.' 44' "2.'58' 2.02 '2."l3' "2.37 '2*49 2.141 "2."267' 'i.'soo" 2.' 631' 1.99 "2.11" "2.'34" '2.' 45" 2.02 2.I3" '2*37' '2.'49" 2.1190 '2.'2387' "2"4779" '2"6632' 1.99 "2^11"; i '2.34' 1 2.0963 '2.'2l62' 2." 4494' 1.99 '2.'ir '2.'34" 6 6 6 6 6 C 6 P 2.45 j 2.39 2.45 2.51 2 .i^? 2.5748 ...... 2.45 2.20 2-39 2.45 2.51 2.9165 "3."64i8' 2.69 '2." 82' 2.43 '2.'54" 2.60 '2." 72' 2.757 '2.'882' 2.57 "2." 68' 2.60 '2."72" 2.7229 "2.'8482" 2.57 2.6887 2.57 2.31 2.68 ! 2.63 2.09 2.75 2 81 2.8140 2.68 "2.' 42' -.0/ 2.63 2.69 2.75 2.81 2.87 2.93 2.99 3.05 3.11 3.17 3.23 3.29 3.35 3.47 3.59 • . ■ • . 3.1672 2.66 3.667 j 1 2.9735 2.9393 2.53 2.77 1 2.87 2.93 2.99 3.05 3 11 2.64 ? 7 7 7 7 I 1 1 2.89 1 2.75 t 1 • • ■ • . 3.00 i 2.86 3.17 3.23 3.29 1 3.12 1 . j 2.97 1 3.23 1 1 3.35 3.47 3.59 i 1 1 3.08 81 8 1. ......!...... 1 , : t j 1 1 1 I 1 ■ 1 » A premium of 5 per cent is paid to spinners earning $48 or over in a period of 4 week51 4.82 6.0104 10.4027 6. 7167 15.8437 4.2506 .0029|t0 .0023 .0030 .0024 ,0043 .002 ,0034 ,0031 0065 0039 0110 0038 0025 0074 0028 0041 0032 0078 0042 0041 0021 0053 0067 0076 0039 0164 Super- sory.J Total OOflt per pound. Total oost per 100 pounds. 1 .0022$0 .0018 .0037 .0024 ,0024 ,004 ,0026 .0034 0018 0024 0033 0007 0039 0047 0028 0037 0022 0022 0038 0041 0039 0084 0027 0070 0027 0063 .0016 0021 0019 0027 0040 0022 0032 0028 0057 0043 0033 0058 .0103 0032| .0096 .0184 .(xm .0042 .0044 .0035 .0031 .0023 .0052 .0031 .00041 .0027 .00791 .0037 .0075 $0.0067 .0062 .0086 .0075 .0107 • UUvD .0092 .0003 .0140 .0106 0176 .0098 .0122; .oas9 .0131 .0103 .0134 .0091 .0141 .0121 .0225 .0103 .0302 $0.67 .62 .86 .75 1.07 .96 .92 .93 1.40 1.06 1.76 1.03 .96 1.84 .98 1.22 .89 1.31 1.03 1.34 .91 1.41 1.21 2.25 1.03 3.02! Averaf^e wage rate per hour. Ma- chine opera- tives. Non- ma- chine opera- tives. $0. 1315 .1309 .1421 .1362 .1304 .1250 .1130 .1197 .1624 .1300 .1278 .1186 .1282 .1465 .1193 .1078 .0968 .1302 .1028 .1179 .1175 .1432 .1064 .1151 .1187 .0986 10. 16261 .1520 .1568 .1552 .1667 .1554 .1400 . 1592 .1561 .1480 .1750 .1200 .1389 .1795 .1416 .1500 .1550 .1650 .1571 .1477 .1450 .1424 .1191 .1423 .1608 .1433 Super- visory labor. Aver- age num- ber of opera- tive per set of cards. $0.2£ .3162 .3277 .2521 .2682 .2455 .2792 .40<>3 .3611 .2530 .3500 .2625 .2201 .3195 .2768 .2771 .2971 .2786 .2708 .3821 .3500 .1762 .2454 .2027 .2733 .3050 1.62 .79 1.14 .81 .88 1.28 1.11 .84 1.08 1.36 1.10 .47 .78 1.50 .64 1.00 .70 .92 1.60 1.30 .80 3.29 1.18 .88 .90 2.50 » Supervisory labor includes overseers, second bands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production of machine operatives was lowest for establisliment No. 26, being 6.01 pounds per one-man hour, and highest in establishment No. 2, bemg 57.7 pounds per one-man hour. The total labor cost was lowest in establishment No. 2, being 62 cents per 100 pounds, and highest in establishment No. 26, being $3.02 per 100 pounds. The average wage rate was lowest in establishment No. 17 for machine operatives, being 9.68 cents per hour, and highest in estab- lishment No. 9, being 16.24 cents per hour. ENGLISH OR BRADFORD SYSTEM OF COMBING. In combing, drawing, and spinning worsted yams two methods or sjTstems are employed— the EngHsh or Bradford system, and the French system. The former is employed more commonly in the worsted mills of the United States and England, while the latter is the one used in mills in Continental Europe. However, in recent 3'ears the French system has been introduced in this country, and although it is to be found only in a few mills, it is there employed on a large scale. For the wool-combing or top-making department the following schedule was used: Persons employed. — Occupation, country of birth, number of males 16 and over and under 16, number of females 16 and over and under 16. 1JEP0BT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1027 Machine. — Number of back-washing machines, number of pre- paratory and finisher gill boxes, number of Noble and Lister combs, number of other machines, place (country) and year of make. Time and earnings, — Total hours worked on product, total amount earned. Production. — Total pounds fed to machine, pounds of tops pro- duced, pounds of noils produced, pounds of waste produced, descrip- tion of product. In the worsted miUs investigated, where tops were manufactured by the English system of combing, there were 373 Noble combs and 757 preparatory and finisher gill-box macliines in operation. They were operated by 766 Noble comb and gill-box maclime tenders. In other capacities there were 147 nonmachine operatives and 110 per- sons engaged in supervision. In the combing departments, French and Bradford systems combined, 84.5 per cent of the operatives were foreign born, 68.4 per cent being from Italy and eastern and southeastern Europe, while 15.5 per cent were natives of the United States. (See Table 4, page 957.) The following tables show the country of manufacture of the Noble combs and gill-box machines, and number of years in operation: Table 54. — Noble combs in use in worsted mills in the United States. Total Noble combs. Noble combs manufactiu-ed in — Years in operation. Nuraljer. Per c-ent distribu- tion. United States. England. Number. Per cent distribu- tion. Number. Per cent. distribu- tion. All machines 380 100.0 57 100.0 323 100.0 Less than 5 years 53 136 18 46 43 47 37 14.0 35.8 4.7 12.1 11.3 12.4 9.7 15 11 4 8 6 13 26.3 19.3 7.0 14.1 10.5 22.8 38 1125 2 14 3 38 37 34 37 11.8 38. 7 4.3 11.8 11.5 10.4 1L5 6 years but less than 10 years 10 years but less than 15 vears 15 years but less than 20 years 20 years but less than 25 years 25 years but less than 30 years 30 years and over 1 Including 1 Lister comb. a Including 4 Lister combs. 3 Including 2 Lister combs. Table 55. —Preparatory and finisher gill boxes (Bradford system) in use in worsted mills in the United States. Total gill boxes. Preparatory and finisher gill boxes manufactxu-ed in— Years in operation. Nnraber.' Per cent distribu- tion. 1 United States. [ England. Number. 1 Per cent 1 dlstribu- Number. tion. Per cent distribu- tion. All machines 1767 100.0 37 100.0 702 100.0 Less than 5 years 137 214 68 66 116 71 67 18.5 29.0 9.2 8.9 15.7 9.6 9.1 5 25 7 13.5 67.6 18.9 132 189 61 66 116 71 67 6 years but less than 10 years 18.8 10 years but less than 15 years 26.9 15 years but less than 20 years 8.7 9.4 16.5 10.1 9.0 20 years but less than 25 years 25 years but less than 30 years 30 years and over — . ' Including 18 gill boxes place and date of manufacture not reported. 1028 REPOET OF TABIFF BOAID OK SCHEDULE K. The table for Noble combs shows that of a total of 380 combs in the mills 57, or only 15 per cent, were manufactured in the United States and 323, or 85 per cent, were made in England. Fifty-three combs, or 14 per cent, were in use less than 5 years, and 154 combs, or 40.5 per cent, 5 years but less than 15 years; 89 combs, or 23.4 per cent, were in use 15 years and over but less than 25 years, while 84 combs, or 22.1 per cent, were in operation 25 to 30 years and over. The table for gill boxes shows that of the total of 757 in use the place and date of manufacture of 18 was not reported. Of those re- ported 37, or 4.9 per cent, were manufactured m the United States, and 702, or 95.1 per cent, were made in England. One hundred and thirty-seven gill boxes, or 18.5 per cent, w^ere in use less than 5 years, 282, or 38.2 per cent, 5 years and over but less than 15 years. One liundred and eighty-two, or 24.6 per cent, were in use 15 years and over but less tlian 25 years, while 138 gill boxes, or 18.7 per cent, were in use 25 to 30 years and over. The following table of estabhshments manufacturing tops and arranged in the order of the average count of yam made in each estab- lishment shows the productive efficiency of the machine and opera- tives, the labor oost per pound and per 100 pounds, and the average wage rate by establishments: Table 56.- COMBIXG DErARTMENT (BRADFORD SYSTEM). Productive effickncy of machine and operative, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and average wage rate, by establishments. Establishment. No. 1. No. 2. Ko. 3- No. 4. No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. No. 9. No. 10 No. 11 No. 12 No. 13 Ko. 14 Aver- ago count Of yarn made in mill. Production per one-man hour. Ma- chine oponi- tivos. All opera- tives. Labor cost p<»r pound (not Includ- ing repairs, labor). Pro- duc- tive. Ma- chine opera- tive. 18.05 19.62 19.75 22.78 27.00 27.46 31.18 31.40 31.60 Lbs. 12.8383 16.7320 21.3591 21.0842 42. 0877 11.8742 19.2020 11.9770 13. 6761 32.6113.0021 33.13 29.0789 42.0011.2994 42.10! 10. 5194 42.58:18.3477 Lbs 11.8633 14.0478 15.9069 15.3774 28. 1327 11.0618 13. 9439 8.6911 11.4702 8. 8124 22. 8787 9.9750 8.2481 14.2480] $0. Nonproduc- tive. Non- ma- chine opera- tive. Super- viso- ry.' 0069 .00€9|$0. .0055 .0060 .0027 .0097 .0068 .0068 .0093 .0098 .0037 ► UUOD .0107 .0058 0010 0010 0016 0008 .0011 .00301 .0006 .0029 .0007 .0021 .0020 10. Total cost. Per pound. 001910.0088 00121 .0091 .0084 .0092 .0048 .0019 .0016 .0013 0016 .0113 .0029 .0020 .0029 .0043 .0010 .0043 .0027 ,0018 .0108 .0138 .0128 .0170 .0054 .0129 .0155 .0096 Per 100 pounds Average wage rate per hour. Ma- chine opera- tives. to. 88 SO. 0885 .91 .1146 .84' .92 .48. 1.13 1.08] 1.38| 1.28 1.70 .54 1.29 1.55 .96 .11.S3 . 12(>8 .1146 .1155 .1303 .1053 .1267 .1286 .1079 • uycy .1122 .1076 Non- ma- chine opera^ lives. SO. 1436 .1316 .1404 .116; .1378 ,1375 ,1425 , 1577 ,1175 .1373 ,2126 Sui)er- visory iabor.i Aver- age nima- ber of opera- tives per comb. SO. 3000 .2857 .2198 .2430 .2738 .2632 .2493 .2027 .3014 .2312 .3100 .3639 .2568 .2763 2.60 3.13 2.17 2.42 1.57 2.33 2.09 2.85 2.11 2.84 1.66 3.25 3.54 2.65 » Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production of machine operatives was lowest for establishment No. 13, being 10.51 pounds per one-man hour and highest for establishment No. 5, being 42.08 pounds per one-man hom*. The total labor cost was lowest for establishment No. 5, being REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 02T SCHEDULE K. 1029 48 cents per 100 pounds, and highest for establishment No. 10, being $1.70 per 100 pounds. The average wage rate was lowest in estabhshment No. 1 for machine operatives, being 8.85 cents per hour, and highest in estab- lishment No. 7, being 13.03 cents per hour. FRENCH SYSTEM OF COMBING. The schedule used for French combing was the same as that for the Bradford system. In the establishments investigated there were 277 French combs in operation. They were operated by 290 machine tenders. There were also 25 nonmachine operatives and 25 supervisory employees. The following tables show the country of manufacture of the machines and the number of years in operation: Table 57. — French combs in use in worsted mills in the United States. Total French French combs manufactured in — Years in operation. combs. United States, Germany. France. Num- ber. Per cent distri- bution. Num- ber. Per cent distri- bution. Num- ber. Per cent distri- bution- Num- ber. Per cent distri- bution. All machines 277 100.0 255 100.0 22 100.0 Less than 5 vears 80 136 28.9 49.1 60 136 23.5 53.3 20 90 9 6 years but less than 10 years 10 years but less than 15 years 15 years but less than 20 vears ' 2 59 .7 21.3 2 9 1 20 years but less than 25 years 59 23.2 25 years but less than 30 years 30 years and over Table 58.- -Preparatory and finisher gill boxes, French combing, in use in worsted mill* in the United States. Total prepar- ing and fin- Preparing and finishing gill boxes manufactured in — Years In operation. ishing gill boxes. United States. England. Germany. France. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Ail machines 125 100.0 3 100.0 90 100.0 32 100.0 Less than 5 years 42 78 3 2 33.0 02.4 2.4 1.6 3 100.0 26 64 28.9 71.1 13 14 3 2 40.6 43.7 Q 4 6 years but less than 10 years. . lOyears but less than 15 years. . 15 years but less than 20 years. . 6.3 20 years but less than 25 vears. . . .. 25 years but less than 30 years. . 30 years and over ■ . .. " 1 The table sliows that of the total of 277 French combs, 255, or 92.1 per cent, were made in Germany, and 22, or 7.9 per cent, were made 111 France. aSOSC—II. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 27 1080 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEI>ITLE K. There were none manufactured in the United States. ^.r5 1 ^"^''^'.T.^^' ^^ ^^*^ P®^ P®^*' ^®^® ^ operation less than 5 years, i^b, or 49.1 per cent, were m use 5 years and over but less than 15 years; 61 or 22 per cent, were in use 15 years and over but less than .25 years, ihere were none in use 25 vears or over. The foDowing table shows the productive efficiency of French combing machines and operatives, the labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and the average wage rate by establishments: Table 59.~Produfive effidmcy of machine and operative, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, andmerage wage rate, by establishments. Establish- ment. Aver- age count of yam made in mill. Production per one-man hour. No. 1... No. 2... No. 3.... No. 4.... No. 5 Ma- chine opera- tives. An opera- tives. Labor cost per pound (not i:i- cludiug repairs labor). Pro- dao- tive. Lbs. IM. 31. 60(15. 453(W12. 5261 ». 0064 on ajtAT iji ABMt ruw^i 33.91 84.78 as. 00 39.98 20.8407 8.8847 13. 2120 16.4541 7.8017 11.1227 Ma- cliiue opera- tives. Nonpro- ductive— Total cost. Non- ma- chine opera- tives. Sup- ervis- ory labor.i 13.730612.2716 .0062 .0109 $aooi2 .0005 .0020 0010 0003 .0080 .0010 .0073^ .0003] SO. 0009 .0019 .0017 .0023 .0020 Per pound. Per 100 pounds Averase wage rate per hour. $0.0085 .oas6 .0140 .0113 .0096 Ma. chine opera- tives. Non- ma- ctiine opera- tives. 10. S.'i 10. 0982 SO. 1074 .1288 .1226 .0966 .2126 .1052 .1182 . 1000 . 1151 Su- pervis- Ory.i SO. 2285 .2289 .2775 .3802 .3492 Aver- age num- ber of opera- tives per comb. 1.25 .85 1.50 l.ll 1.12 1 Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production of machine operatives was hour estabhshment No. 2, being 20.84 pounds per one-man The total labor cost was lowest in establishment No. 1. beins 86 cents per 100 pounds and highest in estabhshment No. 3, being $1 46 per 100 pounds. ' ^ The average wage rate was lowest in estabhshment No. 3. for lisliment No. 2, bemg 12.88 cents per hour. ^\.Z F^Tl™"* Vlu""*^ ^^'^^J^ ^^^* P^^ 1^^ Po^ds ^^ t<>Ps made on the Ji-nghsh and the French svstem, although not conclusive in showing whether or not the labor cost is lower on tops made on i^ rench combs than on tops made on English or Bradford combs is nevertheless mteresting. ' Reference to Tables 56 discloses the fact that establishments 7 8 and 9 made an average count of yarn of about 31s. The total labor cost per 100 pounds of finished tops made on Bradford systm of combing was m those establishments, $1.08, $1.38, and $1.28. respectively. Establishment No. 1 in the table for French comb^ ing made tops, on French combs, that later were spun into varn also of an average count of about 31s., and establishment No. 2 made tops, on 1? rench combs, for even a finer count of yarn (34s.). Yet h^^'^at^^^^^^^'' ^^^ P^."^^^" ^^^^' ^^ ^^«^« *^« establishments, omy $u.85 and $0.86, respectively, as compared with $1.08, $1.28, EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 1031 and $1.38 for the establishments making English tops of about the same grade. , , , , , i.i. t In making comparisons care should be taken to compare estabhsn- ments making about the same average count of yarn, the reason beincr that for the different counts wools varying in fineness are used. The speed of the circles in the Noble combs vaiy, in a general way, with the quality of the wool; the finer the wool the slower, in general, the speed of the circles. BRADFORD SYSTEM OP DRAWING. For the drawing department the following schedule was used: Persons employed. — Occupation, country of birth, number of males 16 and over and under 16, number of females 16 and over and under 16. Drawing frames. — Name, number, place (country), and year of make. Time and earnings. — Total hours worked on product, total amount earned. Production. — Pounds produced, description of roving. In the worsted mills investigated both the English and French sys- tems of drawing are in use, a few mills using both systems. The chief differences between the two systems when employed on similar mate- rial, as fine wool, are as follows: There are more processes in the French system. No twist is em- ployed in the French drawing, while in English or Bradford drawing more or less twist is given to the fibers. Through the use of the porcu- pine (pins through which the drawing passes) the openness of the fibers IS preserved down to the roving. There are fewer drafts or doublings than in the English system. Smaller rollers are employed, which more effectively deal with shorter materials. Owing to the absence of the spiadle winding on arrangement there is the minimum strainiug of the slubbings and little or no production of irregularities. In both systems the object is the same — to reduce the tops to a thin sliver or roving that can be spun when thus drawn into a fine, even thread. One of the pruicipal merits of the French system of drawing is the fact that it is better adapted than the English or Bradford system for short, fine wools havmg staples from 2J to 6 inches in length, especially for fine wools having staples from 3^ to 4^ inches long. It is significant that in the newer ana larger mills in the United States this system of drawing has been introduced on a large scale, and is becoming of greater importance in the industry. In establishments using the system there were 2,50Q drawing frames, and of these 2,148 were in operation. They were operated by 1,275 machine tenders. In other capacities connected with the drawing there were 346 nonmacliine operatives and 105 persons engaged in supervision. In the drawing departments 73.5 per cent of the drawing-frame tenders were foreign bom, 47.5 per cent being from Italy and eastern and southeastern Europe, while 26.5 per cent were natives of the United States. (See Table 4, page 957.) The table following shows the country of manufacture of the drawing frames used for the Bradford system of drawing and the number of years they have been in operation. 1032 EEPOKT OP TABIPP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. Table GO.— Drawing frames (Bradford mfstem) in me in worsted mills in the United States. Total drawing Drawing frames manufactured In — Years In operation. (ramcs. United States. England. Number. Per cent distribu- tion. Number. Per cent distribu- tion. Number. Per cent dlsfribu- tion. All macbjnes 12,500 100.0 273 100.0 » 2.227 100. Less than 5 years 797 628 128 434 92 214 129 32.9 26.0 5.2 17.9 3.8 8.9 5.3 153 31 21 35 56.0 11.4 7.7 12.8 644 597 105 399 92 183 127 5 years but less than 10 years 30. Q 10 years but less than 15 vears 27.3 15 years but less than 20 years 4.9 20 j'oars bu t less than 25 years 18. o 4.3 25 years but le^s than 30 years 31 2 11.4 .7 30 years .«nd over 8.5 5.9 1 Including &0 machines, date of manufacture cot reported. The table shows that of a total of 2,500 machines, 2,227, or 89.1 per cent were manufactured in England and but 273, or 10.9 per cent, were made m the United States. For 80 machines the year of manu- facture was not reported; 797, or 32.9 per cent, were in use less than 6 years; 754, or 31.2 per cent, were in use 5 years and over but less than 15 years; 526, or 21.7 per cent, were in use 15 years and over but less than 25 years; while 343, or 14.2 per cent, were in use 25 to 30 yeara and over. The following table shows the productive efficiency of the machmes and operatives, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and average wage rate, by estabhshments: Table ei.^Prodiidhe ejjfldenqf of machine and operatic, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and average wage rate, by establishments. Estalillsh- meut. No. L... No. 2.... No. 3 No. 4.... No. 5 No. f>.... No. 7.... No. 8.... No. 9 No. 10... No. 11... No. 12... No. 13.... No. 14-.. No. 15.... No. 16.... Aver- age count of yarn made in mill. Production per one-man Ma- chine opera- tlTes. Labor cost per pound (not Including repairs laborj. All opera- tives. Pro- duc- tive, Ma- chine opera- tives. Nonproduc- tive. Lh9. 18.05 a 4111 19.42| 7.0379 19.75,11.8816 22.7811.3126 24.2311.5017 24.39! 5. 5554 27.00:i6.6194 27. 4« 6.7116 30. 2413. 2245 31. 18(11.9176 31.4010.3753! 31.60! 6.9725! 33.13 7.7411 42. 00 5. 24mr 42.10 4.2771' 42.58 7.9894 Lbs 5.8683 5w8490 9.3998 7.9005 9. 3175 4.428.5 9. 5132 6. 8713 9.6984 8.6897 8.7094 6. 5359 7.1435 5.1606 3 7811 6.3286 Non- ma- chine opera- tives. $0. 0142 0176 0082 0109 0105 0193 00t>8 0154 0095 0116 0126 020.S 0162i 0180 02641 0127 Super- viso- ry.* Total cost Per pound. $0. 0010 .f)024i .0016 ,0034 .0020 .0043 .0040 .0006 .0020 .0028 .0024 ."666»> .(X)16 .0018 ia0027 .0020; .(hud; .fK)14 .0010 .0032 .0018 .0031 .0031 .0019 .0007 .0025 .0015 .0014 .0042 .0033 $0.0179 . 0-220 .0117 .n!57 .0135 .0268 .0126 . 0191 .0146 .0163 . 0157 .0233 .0183 .0194 .0322 .0178 Per 100 pounds. Average wage rata per hour. tl.79 2.20 1.17 1.67 1.35 2.68 1.26 1.91 1.46 1.63 1.57 2.33 1.83 1.94 1.78 Mar chine opera- tives. Non- ma- chine opera- lives. 10.0913 .1239 .0979 .1238 .1209 .1071 .1129 .1038 .1258 .1382 .1309 .1453 .1256 .0944 .1131 . 10171 Super- visory labor.! 10. 1350 $0.3818 Avep- aga num- ber of opera- tives per draw- ing frame. 1161 .1050 .1049 ,1258 .1160 .1020 .0948 ,1000 ,1167 ,1470 "ieoo ,1261 ,0906] .2481 .2820 .2452 .2241 .3667 .3071 .2016 .4124 .2810 .3000 .2612 .2166 .5272 .2345 .2478 0.59 .50 .76 .66 .37 .88 .89 1.27 .90 .72 1.04 .67 .59 .47 .65 .61 ! BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 01^ SCHEDULE K, 1033 The table shows that the production of machine operatives was lowest for estabhshment No. 16, being 4.28 pounds per one man-hour, and highest for establishment No. 7, being 16.62 pounds per one man- hour. The total labor cost was lowest for estabhslmient No. 3, being $1.17 per 100 pounds and highest in establishment No. 16, being $3.22 per 100 poimds. The average wage rate per hour was lowest in establishment No. 1 for machine operatives, being 9.13 cents per hour, and highest in establishment No. 12, being 14.53 cents per hour. In 15 of the 17 establishments shown m the above table, the total labor cost was less than $2.35 per 100 pounds of roving. In com- paring data on production and labor cost per pound of roving, it should be remembered that both should, in general, vary with the count of tlie yarn for which the roving is made. The finer the yam the finer the roving must be, and as a consequence the greater the number of drafts and of machine operations to produce the finer roving, and the smaller the number of pounds turned off in a given time, DRAWING (FRENCH SYSTEM). The schedule for French drawing was the same as for English or Bradford drawing. In the estabhshments investigated there were 489 French drawing frames in operation. They were operated by 523 machine tenders. There were also 88 nonmachhie operatives and 30 of a supervisory force. The following table shows the country of manufacture of the machines and the number of years in operation. Table 62. — French drawing frames in use in worsted mills in the United States. Total French drawing frames. French drawing frames manufactured in- Tears in operation. United States. England. Germany. France. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. All machines 489 100.0 201 100.0 192 100.0 . 36 100.0 Less than 5 years 232 76 22 57 74 28 47.5 15.5 4.5 11.7 15.1 ^^ 138 52.9 94 76 22 48.9 39.6 11.5 5 years but less than 10 years 10 years but less than 15 years 15 years but less than 20 years 20 years but less than 25 years 25 years but less than 30 years 30 years and over '"21" 74 28 " '8."6' 28.4 10.7 ""36* "166.0 The table shows that of a total of 489 machines, 261, or 53.4 per cent, were manufactured in England; 192, or 39.3 per cent, in Ger- many, and 36, or 7.3 per cent, were made in France. There were none manufactured in the United States. » Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. 1034 BEPOBT OF TABIFP BOABD OK SCHEBULE K. Two hundred and tMrty-two machines, or 47.5 per cent, were in operation less than 5 years. Ninety-eight machines, or 20 per cent, 5 years and over but less than 15 years. One hundred and thirty- one, or 26.8 per cent, were in uso 15 years and over but less than 25 years, while 28, or 5.7 per cent, were in use 25 to 30 yeare and over. The following table snows the productive efficiency of the machines and operatives, the labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and the average wage rate ''by establishments." Table 63. — Productive efficiency of machine and operative, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and average wage rate, by establishments. £stab)isli- ment. Aver- se cmont of yarn made in mill. Production per one-man liour. Ma- chine o|)er- ativcs. No.l No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 No. 5 No. 6.. 21.11 6.96801 31.6010.0690 33.9110.8247 38. go! 8.5990 39.9811.3823 47.14 8.5405 All oper- atives. Labor cost per pound (not includ- ing repairs labor;. Pro- duc- tive. Xonprodno- tlve. Ma> oper- atives. Nonr chiiui i Super- J5^ visory. atives.' Xftt. 6. (M30i$0. 0183 $0. 0022 10. 0018 Total cost. Per pound 8.6211 9.4994 7 0968 8.1657 7.3432 .0108| .0122 .0123 .0101 .0168 .0009 .0007' .00171 .0031 .OOlSi .0031 .00161 .0023 .0017 .0013 $0.0223 .0148 .0145 .0163 .0149 .01961 Per 100 pounds. Averaj!;e was:© rate l)cr hour. Ma- chine oper- atives. Non- ma- chine oper- atives. Super- visory labor.* Aver- age num- ber of oper- atives per draw- ing frame. 2.23,10.1275 1.48 .1086 1.45 1.63 1.491 1.96i .1325 .1059 .1152 .1440 SO. 1505 .1275 .1110 .1099 .1000 .1175 SO. 2500 .3339 .2527 .2446 .4242 .2000 0.62 1.28 1.29 1.71 1.11 t Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production of the machine operatives was lowest for establishment No. 1, being 6.97 pounds per one-man hour and highest for establishment No. 5, being 11.38 pounds per one- man hour. The total labor cost was lowest for establislmaent No. 3, being $1.45 per 100 pounds, and highest in establishment No. 1, being $2.23 per 100 pounds. The average wage rate was lowest in ostablislmient No. 4 for machine operatives, being 10.59 cents per hour, and highest in estab- lishment No. 6, being 14.40 cents per hour. It has been statea above that in the French s}^tem '4here are fewer drafts or doublings than in the English system'' ; that is, less handling and fewer macliine operations. There should be, therefore, a lower labor cost per 100 pounds of rovings; and a comparison of Tables 61 and 63, showing labor cost for English drawmg and French drawing, respectively, demonstrates this to be so. FRAME SPINNING ( WORSTED). For the frame-spinning department the following schedule was used: Persons employed. — Occupation, country of birth,number of males 16 and over and under 16, number of females 10 and over and under 16. I, BEPOBT or TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1035 Frame'Spinning machines, — Number and kind of frames, number of spindles and speed, number of frames per spinner, number of spindles per spinner, place (country) and vear of make. Time and earnings. — Total hours worked on product, total amount earned. Production. — ^Pounds of yam produced, counts of yarn produced, twists per inch of yarn, description of yarn. In tlie estabUshments investigated m which worsted-frame spin- ning was carried on there were 1,346 frames equipped with 259,496 spindles. They were operated by 1/702 machine tenders, 1,107 being frame spinners and 595 doffers. There were also 487 nonmacliine operatives and 146 of a supervisory force. In the spinning departments, mule and frame departments com- bined, of the mills investigated 59.9 per cent of the emploj^ees were foreign born, 39.9 per cent being from Italy, eastern and south- eastern Europe, while 40.1 per cent were natives of the United States. (See Table 4, page 957.) The following table shows the country of manufacture of the frame- spinning macliines, and the number of years they were in operation: Table 64. — Spinning frames in use in worsted mills in the United States. Years in operation. All machines Less than 5 years 5 years, but less than 10 years. 10 years, but less than 15 years 15 years, but less than 20 years 20 years, but less than 25 years 25 years, but Jess than 30 years 30 years and over Total frames. Num- ber. 1,346 273 559 109 76 98 116 115 Per cent dls- tribu- tlon. Frames manufactured In- United States. Num- ber. 100.0 20.3 41.5 8.1 5.6 7.3 8.6 8.6 113 Per cent dis- tribu- tion. 100.0 England. Num- ber. 1,187 36 66 21 31.9 49.6 18.5 221 483 78 76 98 116 115 Per cent dis- tribu- tion. 100.0 18.6 40.7 6.6 6.4 8.2 9.8 9.7 Germany. Num- ber. 46 16 20 10 Per cent dis- tribu- tion. 100.0 34. S 43.5 21.7 The table shows that of the total of 1,346 frame-spinning machines in operation, 113 or 8.4 per cent were manufactured in the United States, 1,187 or 88.2 per cent were made in England, and 46 or 3.4 per cent were made in Germany. Two hundred and seventy-three machines or 20.3 per cent were in operation less than 5 years; 668 machines or 49.6 per cent were in operation 5 years and over but less than 15 years; 174 machines or 12.9 per cent were in operation 15 3'ears and over but less than 25 years, while 231 macliines or 17.2 per cent were in use 25 to 30 years and over. 1036 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD OF SCHEDULE K. The following table shows the productive efficiency of the machines and operatives, the labor cost per pound, and the average wage rate by establisliments: Tabls 65. — Productive efficiency of machine and operative, labor cost per pound and pet 100 pounds, and average wage rate, by establishments. Ho. No. Ka No. No. Na No. No. No. 10 No. 11 No. 12 No. 13 No. 14 Nal3 No. 16 Nal7 o S 18.05 19.62 19.76 22.78 24.23 24.39 27.00 27.46 29. SO 31.18 31.60 32.61 42.00 42.10 42. 3S 4 a Production. ^ 5.35 12.09 8.50 9.60 9.60 12.70 8.80 10.60 11.40 1Z30 12.70 11.50 13. 18 15.60 9.00 14.42 12.90 S o Per one- man hour. Lbs. 0.0586J .0381 .0726 .0643 .0263 .0166 .0390 .0504 .0264 .0281 .0435 .0379 .0292 .0283 .0266 .0339 .0327 if a S o Lbs. Lb.i. 5.6532 4.9111 Cup o > Labor cost per pound (not including repairs labor). OT ^ € O 9 m 1: 3.2705 a 5459 11.5992 4. 7018 5.2850 3. 7675 8.3<>53 4. 1086 3.7940 7.8873 5. 3762 5. 1142 4.6408 4. 2314 3.2127 4.3546 2. 3778 7.0183 7.5240 2.9651 3.6611 2.9669 5.9431 3.0493 3. 3401 5.6858 3.8850 3. 4543 3. 9112 3.3(^3 2.4647 3.7330 $0. 0113 0298 0101 0115 0251 0181 0303 0121 0209 0260 0156 0200 0245 0271 0258 0341 0211 Nonproduc- tive. sa 0011 0089 0015 0O4O 0121 0060 0050 0040 0055 0033 0039 0065 0081 (mi 0040 0070 0022 10. 0028 0047 0022 0025 0059 0042 0069 0031 0071 0029 0032 0044 0091 0036 0068 0055 0030 Total cost. 1 P-4 S4 so. 0152 .0434 .0138 .0180 .04.31 .0273 .(H22 .0192 .0335 .0322 .0226 .0309 .0417 .03^18 .0356 .(M06 .0263 Average wage rate per hour. I h O o 8 .s- i^ II. 52 10. 4.34 1.38 1.80 4.31 2.73 4.22 1.92 3.35 3.22 2.a> 3.09 4.17 3.48 3.56 4. «) 2.63 II o S5 06.39 0975 0866 1329 1178 0s)55 1141 1016 085S 0988 1222 1076 1250 1259 1092 1096 0919 o «-_ Pt s CO 10. 0569 $a 3818 ,0934 0970 . 2113 .1065 .1161 .0731 .1071 .1063 .1013 .1171 ,10)8 .1229 .1177 .1490 , 09-^0 .1040 .0778 .2486 .2654 .2878 .2533 .2776 .2768 .2329 .3723 .2583 .2352 .3675 .2823 .2880 .2007 .2929 a 86 67 103 130 120 236 82 122 126 121 136 112 130 135 137 77 m Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production per spindle was lowest for establishment No. 6, being 1.66 pounds per spindle per 100 houra, and highest for establishment No. 3, being 7.26 pounds per spindle per 100 hours. The production of machine operatives was lowest for establishment Ko. 16, being 3.21 pounds per one-man hour, and highest in establish- ment No. 4, being 11.60 pounds per one-man hour. The total labor cost was lowest in establishment No. 3, being $1.38 per 100 pounds, and highest in establishment No. 16, being $4.66 per 100 pounds. The average wage rate for machine operatives was lowest in establishment No. 1, being 6.4 cents per hour, and highest in establishment No. 4, being 13.3 cents per hour. Detailed comparisons should be made only for establishments pro- ducing about the same average counts of yam wdth about the same twist per inch. For example, establishments 2 and 3 produced approximately the same average counts, 19.62 and 19.7$, respectively. There was, however, a marked difference in the pounds of yarn produced per spindle per 100 hours, 7.26 pounds in mill No. 3 and 3.81 pounds in mill No. 2. It is interesting to note that mill No. 3 is a large mill devoted exclusively to making yarns, while mill No. 2 is primarily a weaving mill and makes only such yams as it requires. The total number of frame spindles in both mills was approximately equal, and they were practically all cap spindles. Furthermore, the average REPORT or TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1037 number of spindles tended by one spmner was approximately the same in both establishments. This marked difference in production per spindle per 100 hours is probably due, in a degree, to the fact that the mill showiug the higner production is engaged exclusively in the manufacture of yam, while tne other is not, and that during the periods covered by our data the mill with the higher production was engaged largely in making a few counts of yam while the other mill spun a considerable variety of counts. But another factor of great importance — twist per inch — accounts in a very large degree for the marked difference shown. The mill having the smaller production spun its yarn with an average of about 12 turns to the inch, while the other mill spun yarn with only 8.5 twists per inch. That the production per spindle per 100 hours in mill No. 3 is not abnormal is indicated by data supplied by mill No. 11. This estab- lishment keeps a detailed weekly record of the number of spindles spinning each count of yarn, and the number of hours; and is able to snow pounds of each count of yarn produced per spindle per week. The records of the frame-spinning department of this establishment for a typical week show that the average production per spindle per 66 houre for yarn having an actual count 01 19.86 and approximately the same average twist was 4.17 pounds. This is equivalent to a pro- duction of 7.44 pounds per spindle per 100 hours, as compared with 7.26 for establishment No. 3. Establishments Nos. 5 and 6 produce yams of average counts of 24.23 and 24.39, respectively. The production per spindle per 100 hours was, in establishment No. 5, 2.63 pounds and in establishment No. 6, 1.66 pounds. This difference is largely, if not entirely, accounted for by the fact that the yam made by mill No. 6 had more twist than the yarn spun in mill No. 5 — 12.7 turns per inch as compared with 9.6 turns per inch. Establishments Nos. 16 and 17 spin about the same size and twist of worsted yarn (about 42s) (42.10 and 42.58, respectively). Both mills have cap spinning frames exclusively. Mill No. 16 makes yams for its own weaving plant, while mill No. 17 is engaged exclusively in the manufacture of yam for the general trade. The former is not in or near a center of woolen or worsted manufacture, but the latter is located in one of the principal centers of the industry in this country. As a result of its more favorable location mill No. 17 is enabled to secure an abundance of skilled labor at a moderate rate of wages, while mill No. 16 must pay higher wages to less skilled oper- atives. Because of the fact that the operatives in mill No. 16 are largely unskilled, more hands are required to operate a given number of spindles. As an inevitable result of these conditions, mill No. 16 shows a much higher total labor cost per 100 pounds than mill No. 17 — $4.66 as compared with $2.63. It is interesting to note that mills devoted exclusively to the manu- facture of yarns attained a higher production per spindle per 100 hours. This is true also of establishments which are large producers of yarn, although they also do weaving. Li these two groups are included establishments Nos. 1, 3, 4, 11, 13, 14, and 17. The average wage rate per hour for machine operatives is lowest for establishment No. 1, being only 6.39 cents. In this mill young 1038 EEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. female labor is employee! at low rates. In all of the mills where the averajge wage rate per hour for macliiiie operatives fell below 10 cents, a majontv of the operatives were females. It is interesting also to observe that in these mills the average wage rate per hour for non- machme operatives was nearly as high (in several cases higher) as the machme operatives. Ml LE SPINNING, WORSTED. For the mule spinning departments the following scliedule was used : Persom employed.— Occup&iion, country of birth, number of males 16 and over and under 16, number of females 16 and over and under 16. Mules spinning macMnes.—Kumher, number of spindles, number of spindles per mule, number of spindles per spmner, place (country), and year of make. "^ ' Time and earnings.— Total hours worked on product, total amount earned. Production.—Pounds of yarn produced, count of yarn, twists per mch of yarn, description of yarn. In the establisliments investigated hi which mule spmmng was carried on there were 370 mules in operation equipped with 238,688 spmdles. They were operated by 1,069 machme operatives, 214 being mule spinners and 855 mule spinners' helpers, joiners, piecers, doners, and back boys. There were also 69 nonmachine operatives and 35 persons in the supervisory force. The average number of spmdles per spmner was 1,115, and the average number of spmdles per mule was 645. Of the total of 1,173 persons, 573 were males 16 years of age and over, 20 males under 16; 573 also were females 16 years of age and over and 7 females under 16. The following table shows tlie country of manufacture of mule spinning machines and the number of years they were in operation : Table GQ.— Worsted mules in use in mills in the United States. Years in operation. Total mulps. N'um- ber. Per ceBt trlbu- tion. Mules manufactured in- United States. All machines 370 ' 100.0 Num- ber. Per cent dls- trlbu- tion. England. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. 2(13 100.0 Less than 5 rears 5 years but less than 10 years. . 10 years but less than 15 years. IS years but less than 20 years. 20 years but less than 25 years. 25 years but less than 30 years. 30 years and over 121 12 34 100 11 24.9 3*2.7 3.2 9.2 27.0 3.0 74 60 4 28 60 11 28.1 22.8 1.5 10.7 32.7 4.2 Oennany. Num- ber. 101 Per cent dia- tribu- tJon. 100.0 France. Num- ber. Per cent dis- tribu- tion. 100.0 18 61 8 "14 17.8 60.4 7.9 "ii'g" 6 100.0 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1039 The table shows that of the total of 370 mule spinning machines in operation 263, or 71.1 per cent, were manufactured in England; 101, or 27.3 per cent, in Germany; and 6, or 1.6 per cent, in France. None were manufactured in the United States. Of the total number 92 maclunes, or 24.9 per cent, were in operation less than 5 years; 133, or 35.9 per cent, 5 years and over but less than 15 years; 134, or 36.2 I)er cent, for 15 years and over but less than 25; while 11, or 3 per cent, were in operation from 25 to 30 years and over. The following table shows for each estabhshment the average count of yarn made, the average twists per inch, the number of pounds pro- duced per spindle per hour, and per one-man hour for macliine oper- atives, and for all operatives including supervisory. It also shows the labor cost per pound (not including repairs labor) for macliine operatives, nonmachine operatives, supervisory, and total labor cost, together with the average wage rate per hour for these groups of operatives : Table 67. — Productive efficienq/ of machine and operative, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds f and average wage rate, by establishments. . Aver- age count of yarn. Production. Lalx)r cost per pound (not includ- ing repairs labor). Average wage rate per hour. Aver- Estab- lish- Per spin- dle per hour. Per on©-man hour. Pro- duc- tive. Nonpro- Total ductive. cost. Ma- Chine opera- tives. Non- ma- chine opera- tives'. Super- visory labor». age num- ber of ment. Ma- chine opera- tives. AU opera- tives. Ma- chine opera- tives. Non- ma- chine opera- tives. Super- viso- ry.! Per pound. Per 100 ipounds spin- dies per opera- tive. "No.!... No. 2... No. 3... No. 4... No. 5... No. 6... No. 7... No. 8... No. 9... 21.11 30.24 31.40 31.60 33.91 34.78 38.00 39.98 47.14 Poundit 0.0226 .0199 .0224 .0206 .0232 .0144 .0228 .0192 .0167 Pouruh 7.7794 9. 1771 8.5349 3.8683 9.5594 3.5248 3.9903 2.8335 7.3303 Pounds 6. 1204,$0. 0172 6.8145 .0165 6. 8715 . 0203 3.3119 .0328 8. 6276, . 0201 2.5393 .0386 3.7613! .0344 2. V206 . 0450 6.3896| .0253 $0.0037 .0029 .0031 .0051 .0005 .0077 .0014 .0018 .0013 10.0015 .0034 .0013 .0031 .0018 .0157 .0023 .0018 .0030 $0.0224 .0228 .0247 .0410 .0224 .0620 .0381 .0486 .0296 $2.24 2.28 2.47 4.10 2.24 6.20 3.81 4.86 2.96 $0.1340 .1515 .1731 .1268 .1925 .1359 .1371 .1275 .1855 $0.1253 .0975 .1421 .1422 .1080 .1170 .1706 .1659 .1286 $0.2679 .4124 .1953 .4221 .2805 .3566 .3311 .4545 .3090 268 340 322 163 369 184 148 143 400 I Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production per spindle was lowest for estabhshment No. 6, being 1.44 pounds per spindle per 100 hours, and highest for estabhshment No. 5, being 2.32 pounds per spindle per 100 hours. . The production of machine operatives was lowest for estabhshment No. 8, being 2.83 pounds per one-man hour, and highest for estabhsh- ment No. 5, being 9.56 pounds per one-man hour. The total labor cost was lowest for establishments Nos. 1 and 5, being $2.24 per 100 pounds in each, and highest in establishment No. 6, being $6.20 per 100 pounds. I"! 1040 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOARD 02^ SCHEDULE K* The average wage rate for macliiiie operatives was lowest in estab- Jishment No. 4, being 12.68 cents per hour, and highest in estabhsh- ment No. 5, being 19.25 cents per hour. In comparing costs and production the average count of yam and the average tw^ts per inch should always be considered. MULE SPIXXIXG, WOOLEN. The schedule used for carded wool mule spinning was the same in form as that used for worsted mule spinning. In the establisliments investigated there were 580 woolen mules in operation equipped with 196,551 spindles. They were operated by 580 machine operatives. There were also 197 nonmachme operatives and 61 of a supervisory force. The following table shows the country of manufacture of the machmes and the number of years in operation: Table QS.— Carded wool mules in use m mUh in the United States, ^''eara In operation. Total mulw. Xurn- ber. Percent distri- bution. Mules manufactured in- United States. t Allmachjiies Less than 5 years 6 years but less than 10 years. . . 10 years but less tban 15 years. . 15 years but less than 20 vears. . 20 years but less than 25 years. . 25 years but less than 30 years. . 30 years and over 588 100.0 47 204 143 72 47 t% 22 8.0 34.7 24.3 12.3 8.0 9.0 3.7 :i um- ber. 504 Percent distri- bution. England. Num- ber. Percent distri- bution. 100.0 41 109 130 58 45 53 8 8.2 33.5 25.8 11.5 8.9 10.5 1.6 36 9 8 14 100.0 Germany. Num- |Pj;ffP* ber. *lifj"" 'bution. 25.0 13.9 22.2 38.9 48 100.0 6 26 8 6 2 12.5 54.1 Id. 7 12.5 4.2 llie table shows that of a total of 588 mules in the establishments TT • III operation), 504, or 85.7 per cent, were manufactured in the Umted States; 36, or 6.1 per cent, in England; and 48, or 8.2 per cent, in Germany. Forty-seven machines, or 8 per cent of the total, were in operation less than five years. Three hundred and forty-seven machines, or 59 per cent, were in operation five years and over but less than 15 years. One hundred and mneteen, or 20.3 per cent, were in use 15 years and over but less than 25 vears, wliile 75 machmes, or 12.7 per cent, were in operation 25 to 30 years and over. The following table shows the productive efficiency of the machmes and operatives, the labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds, and the average wage rate, by establishments: BEPOKT OF TABIFF BOAED dS" SCHEDULE K. 1041 Table 69. — Productive effidency of machine and operative, labor cost per pound and per 100 pounds t and average wage ratej by establishments. Production. Labor cost per pound (not including repairs labor). Average wage rate per hour. Aver- age run made ia Aver- Estab- lish- ment. Per spin- dle per hour. Per one-man bour. Pro- duc- tive. Nonproduc- tive. Total cost. Ma- rhinA Non- ma- Sui>er- age num- ber of spin- dles mill. Ma- chine oi>€ra- tives. AU opera- tives. Ma- chine opera- lives. Non- ma- chine opera- tives. Super- viso- ry.! Per pound. Per 100 pounds. opera- tives. chine opera- tives. visory labor.i per oijera- tive. Lbs. Lbs. Us. No. 1... 1.29 0. 0781 23.5350 14 9001 10.0077 80.0034;$0.0009 $a0120 $1.20 $ai822 8ai540 $0. 3725 185 No. 2... 1.47 .0709 27.8340 18. 1334 ,0078 .0025 .0015 .0118 1.18 .2174J .1715 .3258 255 No. 3... 1.57 .0614123.3527 15. 3154 .0097 .0027 .0007 .0131 1.31 .2272 .1312 .3621 262 No. 4... 2.02 .0637 20.5861 15.8085 .0093 .0015 .0015 .0123 1.23 .1923 .1552 .2845 267 No. 6... 2.24 .0603 20. 5172 12.4607 .0079 .0021 .0028 .0128 1.28 .1619 .1125 .2250 247 No. 6... 2.27 .0584 24 8741 16.7509 .0098 .0034 .0007 .0139 1.39 .2448 .1878 .4267 299 No. 7... 2.32 .0514 20. &879 14 4060 .0091 .0020 .0016 .0127 1.27 .1910 .1363 .2379 315 No. 8... 2.36 .0570 22. 3174 12. 4270 .0111 .0048 .0018 .0177 1.77 .2468 .1612 .3075 230 No. 9... 2.38 .0458 15.6319 11.0184 .0131 .0022 .0050 .0203 2.03 .2048 .1814 .3373 284 No. 10.. 2.74 .0518 14. 1169 9.2275 .0131 .0039 .0028 .0198 1.98 .1854 .1452 .2586 197 No. 11.. 2.90 .0500 21. 4320 11. 8715 .0089 .0028 .0034 .0151 1.51 .1896 .1187 .2425 273 No. 12.. 3.25 .0411 13.9696 10.7459 .0161 .0022 .0021 .0204 2.04 .2256 .1518 .2946 283 No. 13.. 3.40 .0405 15.734010.0495 .0147 .0031 .0033 .0211 2.11 .2308 .1296 .2746 285 No. 14.. 3.43 .0416 141600 9.4298 .0129 .0028 .0028 .0185 1.85 .1829 .1052 .3103 255 No. 15.. 3.46 .0407 15. 2261 11. 29161 .0159 .0019 .0025 .0203 2.03 .2418 .1401 .2723 308 No. 16.. 3.50 .0299 13.7090 9.8222 .0142 .0019 .0033 .0194 1.94 .1946 .1313 .2313 361 No. 17.. 3.50 .0472 14 8124 11.3401 .0118 .0011 .0044 .0173 1.73 .1752 .1000 .3168 290 No. 18. . 3.70 .0272 13. 0547 7.7030 .0133 .0033 .0054 .0220 2.20 .1736 .0955 .2888 321 No. 19.. 3.74 .0212 5. 3204 4 .3821 .0252 .0043 .0052 .0347 3.47 .1344 .1788 .3173 206 No. 20- . 3.84 .0366 13.4380 9. 1552 .0128 .0036 .0033 .0197 1.97 .1722 .1486 .3196 253 No. 21.. 4.00 .0463 a 4774 7.6664 .0137 .0012 .0011 .0160 1.60 . 1164 .1238 .4053 168 No. 22.. 3.90 .0287 20. CiCW 11.8057 .0a84 .0021 .0036 .0141 1.41 .1723 .0875 .3000 480 No. 23.. 4.07 .0323 12. 6169 7.9591 .0111 .0032 .0033 .0176 1.76 .1395 .0977 .2396 267 No. 24.. 4.49 .0308 10. 05.^8 6. 9521 .0162 .0021 .0081 .0264 2.64 .1629 .1422 .2741 294 No. 25.. 4.72 .039514.59071 10. 8903 .0184 .0023 .0031 .0238 2.38 .2690 .1658 .3232 320 No. 26.. 4.82 .0284 8. 1774 5. 1690 .0242 .0080 .0039 .0361 3.61 .1982 .1476 .2250 20» I Supervisory labor includes overseers, second hands, third hands, and section hands. The table shows that the production per spindle was lowest for establishment No. 19, being 2.12 pounds per spindle per 100 hours and highest for establisment No. 1, being 7.81 pounds per spindle per 100 hours. The average number of yarn in establishment No. 19 was 3.74 runs and in establishment No. 1, 1.29 runs. The production of machine operatives was lowest for establishment No. 19, being 5.32 pounds per one-man hour, and highest in establish- ment No. 2, being 27.83 pounds per one-man hour. The total labor cost was lowest tor establishment No. 2, being $1.18 per 100 pounds, and highest for establishment No. 26, being $3.61 per 100 pounds. The average wage rate was lowest in establishment No. 21 for machine operatives, being 11.64 cents per hour, and highest in estab- lishment No. 25, being 26.90 cents per hour. It will be noted that in 17 of the 26 establishments shown in the above table the total labor cost per 100 pounds was less than $2 and that in onlv two establishments (Nos. 19 and 26) did the total labor cost exceed $3 per 100 pounds. In making comparisons of data in the above table, account must be taken of the differences in size of yarn (expressed in terms of runs — 1 run being 1,600 yards in 1 pound and 2 runs being 3,200 yards in 1 1042 BEPOBT OP TABIFF BOABD OH SCHEI>ULE K. pound and so on) and the average number of twists per inch of yam, lOT tlie„higher the runs the finer the yam and as a consequence the smaller the production in pounds. THE RELATIVE EFFICIENCY OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC MACHINEET The following tables summarizes the machines from wool scouring to weaving, inclusive, in use in establishments, giving the numbers manufactured in the United States and foreign countries, together with the nxmiber of years they have been in operation: Table 70.— Looms in use in wookn and worsted mills in the United States. . Total looms. Looms manulactured in- Years in operatioa. Nnm- Percent dlstri- button. United States. England. Oennany. Num- ber. Percent dlstrl- butioQ. Num- ber. Percent distri- bution. Num- ber. Percent distri- bution. All machines 12,337 100.0 9,517 100.0 2,713 100.0 107 100.0 Less than 5 years 4,125 1,244 2,009 2,072 2,053 396 438 33.4 10.0 16.3 16.8 16.7 3.2 3.6 3,751 697 1,426 1,090 1,937 388 228 39.4 7.3 15.0 11.5 20.3 4.1 2.4 374 440 583 082 116 8 210 13.8 16.2 21.5 36.2 4.3 .3 7.7 5 years but less than 10 years 10 years but less than 15 years 107 100.0 16 years but less than 20 years 20 years but less than 25 years 25 years but less than 30 years 30 years and over AMERICA]^ AND FOREIGN MACHINERY. Table 7l.--Number and per cent of the principal tmolen and worsted mill machines used m the industry o/mUive and foreign manufacture, with number of years in operation. Nam© of machines. Scouring machines. . Carding machines, woolen Carding machines, worsted Gill boxes, English (Bradford) comb- ing Gill boxes. French combing. Noble combs French combs English (Biadford) drawing frames. . . French drawing frames Spinning frames Mtiki, carded wool. M nto, worsted . . . Total Weaving looms m P*^ j' manufacture not reported for 14 machines. « including 18 GiU boxes, place and date of manufacture not reported. a Includmg 80 drawmg frames, place and date of manufacture not reported. KEPOBT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1043 The table shows that in the establishments investigated there were 7,990 scouring, carding, combing, drawing, and spinning machines anJ 12,337 looms. Of the 7,990 machines which manipulate the wool fiber from its condition in the grease until it is a finished thread ready for weaving, 6,221 machines, or 78 per cent, are of foreign manufacture, while 1,751, or 22 per cent, are of American manufacture. Excluding carded wool cards and carded wool mules, the per cent of machinery m use manufactured in foreign countries is 87.8 per cent. The explanation of the great use of forei^ machinery in the mills (in some departments its exclusive use) given by the establishments visited was that while the importation of these machines increased their cost more than 60 per cent above that of their foreign com- petitors in the woolen and worsted industry, it was necessary to buy abroad, since with the exception of looms and some few other machines American manufacturers liad not been able to furnish machines approaching in results the work done by the foreign machines. Each of these machines, excepting the looms, is of large size and requires considerable floor space and substantial foundation. In addition to the above, there are a number of others of lesser impor- tance in the above departments, together with the very important machines used in the dyeing and fimshing departments, necessarily excluded in the study of machine and operative efficiency through lack of definite quantities of production. A study of the above table and the tables showing country of birth of employees and their occupations show that the woolen and worsted industry in the United States is largely dependent upon machines of foreign manufacture and upon foreign-born labor for their operation. Talble 71 shows the number of years the machines have been in operation in the mills. From this it appears that 1,977 machines, or 25.1 per cent, have been in operation less than 5 years; 3,045 machines, or 38.7 per cent, 5 years and over, but less than 15 years; 1,696 ma- chines, or 21.5 per cent, 15 years and over, but less than 25 years; and 1,160 machines, or 14.7 per cent, were in operation 25 to 30 years and over. Table 71 further shows that 1,160, or 14.7 per cent, of the machines in the various departments have been in use from 25 to 30 years and over and other large groups for a lesser number of years. As a rule the working parts of the macliines are separable. Table 70 also shows that of the 12,337 looms in operation in the mills investigated, 9,517, or 77.1 per cent, were manufactured in the United States and 2,820 were made in foreign countries; 2,713 of the latter were made in England and 107 in Germany. Four thousand one hundred and twenty-five looms, or 33.4 per cent, had been in operation less than 5 years; 1,244, or 10 per cent, 5 years and over but less than 10 years; 2,009, or 16.3 per cent, 10 years and over but less than 15 years, while 4,125 looms, or 33.5 per cent, have been in operation 15 years and over but less than 25 years. Eight hundred and thirty-four looms, or 6.8 per cent, have been in use from 25 to 30 years and over. To maintain the machines in efficient condition, new parts are kept in stock in the establishments and the worn parts are renewed when needed. Each mill has its mechanical department and in the mills investigated a total force of 1,039 machinists, blacksmiths, etc., were employed to keep the machinery in good working condition; 36.8 per 1044 EEPOKT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUMl K. ^^r.^L*^ mechanical force earned from 25 to 30 cents an hour and over; ,68, or 73.9 per cent, earned from 20 to 30 cents an hm,r u^A over; while 271, or 21.1 per ce.t, earned loss than 20 cents an honr mills, companng their relative merits made the following statement v^'bLt^s'a"w'';?r^rol%To^fdtt!r,'^' T ""^ «l^e» '"»'^- ^or the TJnitPd St^fA^ suii!! t P'^^S 1® ?^1 <^ould not u^e the looms which we boueht in thn looms. The other Ent^lish h^nm^ €.1,^1*11 a •' ^^'}^^P^Po^, than the American ofle^ difficX^s^S wrpVoduc^fn W^^ are used for the weaving aU adapted for flie very fine eZ^^ vZ fLo^ .TEniu*X!^^tra?e"fWAS^^^^^^^ &r.h- S£F^ ra^'<^»i4"^s,Tt:l^rthr^^ The epeed of the American and English looms is hiVfiAi. fli«« fi,«* ^* *u /^ looms, but the work which ia don^ nn fhlV^^ i '"8^'*^' ™^ "i^* oi t^^e German nesa more than epeed and JLi^^^f aniS^ looms requures accuracy and fine- Another manufactm-er discussing looms and machinerv and oua nf ^^r'^fP?'.?^"^ 'S' *^« inc>-easing use ofTS^ms and to some extent the use of automntip Inr^rna r.« «^*i ^^ums, ana lo made the followi,^ statementr ° cotton-warp worsteds, p?t3\"e^i'::XutHrer,2L*prHi^£^^^^^ ^?'^'' ."^^v^arrcS It is better to let Uie loom RoTh^ ^^etZZTIZ^^ irregulari, ee in your cloth. that have been throwTo" tWe wo^lJd mnf,^n .V» ^^^^f *^- ^^"^ "' *^« '«"»» There has been quite a c We S ^^w Cm^t'^^-lnP ^^ were good looms. by UdiS'^IYJugh't'iLde^^'fhf dt'j ^"ds'iohhl"?' T''J "^^ •''f«'«' ^°™ and a ha« years Igo were vm- mu!h^Zlhf!,^^!^,l''*^,^ **!''°i;" V»"«y *^° trade, and fliey were aiTanoin7fo?Vh» IJ^irK "^ o™f their loss in the dress-goods ent centers alo^nj tTe^SS^ Vallev ^t Mt™hili°^.'''r"l^'^"8 Bchoob at Sffer- free of charge, ^e only cSion beVn^th JT rt.o,f i^ *? 'T** \^"?" ^ dressmake They clain.1d"it was v^r^ difficult to ha^vfdreSS^r^'de and"i? tK'T"" ^""^y- people along the district thev mii?ht RtimnWrlt^^ ' . ","'«> "ad some smart Smply a temporar/stemS Sihe t He T^i^ dress-goods business. But it waa and for this reason- ThHJ^n in /I,I.^;„P° made-up garment has come to stay, maker.ianotirruch Witra^stvTe, Now Z'f *''"''^ t" ""^y be a good dre^! tied up to a country d^nukorfclb a^med IhrT.'"-.* T'^TX who has been nice st»lee-«he knows ehT^a counSTwoman B?.t X'f*^ ^^^^S'^^ "'"' ^<^ ^^^ In3teadoIhavin2herdre«madoi,Vrri!?K,T "? 1, 1*"' ™at she does now is this: is then asBood M the b^rf?hn^ '^.s ^"^' " "■^"^ *" " '» "^e city, and her suit be madeuV^The avSa w^mfn" i, ff^MT""? ^"^ P?"' '".^Ses of how material can or black- but whon J,?!^^^ ^ afraid (o get away from her brown, or navv blue 54?^L'd'?^*i^"h'^TwMct ha.^f L'^Tr ^T*^ "^ made-to-order suits use 50. milem methwf rf mZ^ Jntta hL LT''* '"lK'^'' ^/'^'' '°°'™- »» 'hat is why thii looms, boca««rthe count^f Zuir^^l^o^^^ \^° '^"' *« "«« "« the fcroad looms on Jacquard that woS3 wS™ ^^S^"' ;,^r°''^ J*^^° ^« *'»'> » thousand lutely gone. The cloth that is mnt^nwf }^ ^^"j ^^^ <'«'°»"<1 has abso- inches i;ide. and the^tt^r^A^lirUk^ ^/uX fcaSes'.^ ^"'° ^^ '<' « EEPOET OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 1045 THE EFFICIENCY OF AMERICAN WEAVERS. In American worsted and woolen mills the weavers, male and female, operate one or two looms as a rule, excepting where worsted dress goods are made with cotton warps. Cotton warp being stronger than woolen or worsted makes it possible to use automatic, or "weft replenisliing" looms, so that one weaver can operate as many as 12 looms in the manufacture of worsted dress goods. Weavers in the United States are pieceworkers. They are paid for tlie yardage they produce. Usually the piece price per yard is^ fixed by a scale, based upon the number of picks per inch in the fabric woven, the speed of the loom, the number of looms operated by tlie^ weaver, the quality of warp and weft, the number of shuttles and harness also being factors in regulating the price. While the- weavers in most mills are paid each week the amount credited to them for the work of the previous week, they are not paid for the- actual yardage they produced during the hours they worked in that week. The yardage woven is taken off the loom at intervals during the week in "cuts'' or "pieces" of varying lengths of from 50 to 65 yards, though often less. Tliis yardage is weighed and measured by the "percher" and examined. The weaver is paid for this measured vardage. The ^^ards woven on Friday or Saturday and still in the- loom Monday morning when weaving is resumed are taken out of the loom on Monday or Tuesday and credited to the current week's^ work. For these reasons the exact production of the weaver in the* actual number of hours worked, with ths earnings at the piece price per vard, are not known by the mill officials, nor by the weaver. The method generally used as a basis for the presentation of the^ earnings of weavers is to copy the amounts credited to each weaver for two or more weeks. An hourly rate of pay is ascertained by dividing the amounts credited by the number of hours the weaver was in the mill. As the weaver's productive capacity and earnings cease when the loom stops, the earnings thus ascertained can not take into account the idle time of the weaver waiting for new warp- to be put in (an operation generally requiring several hours) or waits for filling, or fixer s time for repairs if the loom breaks down. If a weaver actually works 50 hours and is idle from any one or more of the above causes for a total of 10 hours in a week of 60 hours, the hourly rate of pay derived from the earnings credited will be on the basis of his working and idle or nonproducing time in the mill combined. The idle time from the causes above mentioned is no fault of the weaver. If the weaver has to wait for filling, this loss of time must be charged to lack of efficienc}^ on the part of the estab- lishment. If the loom can not weave the fabric properly and the weaver has - to stop the loom and the loom fixer's services are required, this idle time of the weaver must also be charged to the inefficiency of the estabhshment. The putting in of new warps causes the greatest loss of time to the weaver, for which he is no wise responsible. To what extent estab- lishments are responsible it is difficult to say, but certain it is that they have not overcome the delay nor has any Invention yet been devised to prevent it. Wliile not responsible for the enforced idleness from the causes . named, the weaver is responsible for his failure to get the maximum 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 28 1046 EKPOBT OF TAKIFF BOABD ON SCHEDUU! K. LTw fh^i'mi'^f^ tr t?^"^^** ^'^ T'^^? *" Sood working order after Sount '"""'' '^ "^'^ ^^'^ °*''*'^ ^*^*<*'« into In ortler to ascertain to what extent the weavers in American woolm and worsted niilb wore efficient and capable in tlie pro^fu ° tion of fabncs which enteml into competition with similar fabric made by weavers in com!)etitivo countries, the TariiT Board undertook a searcW mvostigaUon of tha subject, ignoring the av™^ ductive m,U efficiency of all of the weaveiS^ wliic!. mean! but liuK' an ^^"5^ ^^ ^^^' ^^^ quality of fiilini. 15. Style and piece number/ ^ 16. Trade name of goods. 17. Hours worked by weaver. First day. Second day. Thiixi day. Fourth day. Fifth day. Sixth day. 18. Total yards woven. 19. Piece price per yaid paid lo weaver. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1047 To this was added from the mill records facts as to where the looms were made (whether of American or foreign manufacture), with year of make, and style. It will be seen that every factor entering into the manufacture of the cloth was included in the data obtained by the board. It should be borne in mind that the weaving time only of the weaver when engaged in the production of the cloth was included in the record. The idle time of the weaver when not working on loom production, such as waiting for new warp, for filling, or for breakdown of the loom, was rigorously excluded. If the warp in the loom should be woven out at any time during the period in which the record was bein^ kept, the record for that loom was brought to an end and the time it ended was noted, together with the yardage produced. If any doubt existed as to its accuracy, the loom record was stricken out. In this way an accurate basis was secured for determining the efficiency or inefficiency of each weaver. It will be noted that the card attached to each loom called for the exact speed of the loom, expressed in picks per minute, and also the number of picks per inch. A pick is '' a smgle strand of weft reaching once across a piece ' ' of cloth. The bobbin within the shuttle which is propelled across the cloth contains several hundred yards of weft or filling yarn. The loom is so adjusted that it will propel the shuttle a certain number of times automatically, per minute, weaving a single pick or strand each time. ° The loom is also adjusted so that it will weave a certain number of picks or strands automatically in every inch of cloth woven. When the bobbin in the shuttle is empty the loom has to be stopped and a full bobbin inserted in place of the empty one. An efficient weaver watcliing the loom closely will have a full bobbm in hand ready to insert when the last pick is tlirown across from the empty one and will stop the loom but a few moments of tune, to quickly make the excliange. In exceptional cases there are weavers who make the exchange of empty and full bobbms without stoppmg the loom, but such instances are rare and the operation is dangerous, as it may result in serious accident to loom, material, and weaver. Such weavers, however, obtain the maximum production of the loom, or nearly 100 per cent! The weaver has to stop the loom to tie broken warp ends of yam. Imperfections in carding and spinning often make lumps in the warp yarn, which in most cases break in weaving and have to be tied. Worsted weavers in general have fewer stops than woolen weavers owing to finer yarn. In one establishment manufacturing worsted dress goods and using cotton warp a record was kept which showed that in several instances looms were nm continuously for 10 hours without a single break of warp ends or stoppage of the looms on that account. Stops to change bobbins and to tie broken warp ends are the prin- cipal causes preventin^continuous operation and production of looms. For 11,080 looms individual records of weavers' efficiency were se- cured, of which the following is an example from one of the records: 203 yards of cloth woven in 90 hours and 30 minutes (weaver's actual working time on loom). ^ 105 picks per minute (speed of loom). 65 picks per inch. 1048 EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K, From this data the following is derived: Actual limp ^ZT^^. '"^ motion and producing, 75 hours 24 minutea. Actual time lost in stoppages, 15 hours 6 minutea. rer cent of total time loom was producing, 83.3. rer cent of total time lost in stoppages, 16 7 Yards woven per hour of total working time of weaver, 2.24. Yards woven per hour of actual producing time. 2.69. folSwsr^^^''*^ ""^ '^^^'''''^ *^'^ productive and stoppage time is as 66 picks per inch. 36 inches per yard. 2, 340 picks per yard. 203 yards. Picks per minute, 105)475, 020 picks in 203 yards. 4, 524 minutes, or 75 hours and 24 minutea 90 hours and 30 minutes, total time of weaver. 75 ftours and 24 minutes, actual loom time. 15 hours and 6 minutes, time lost. WoAhe movfimpntnf''/ *5^« l»°F^'?'»de it possible to record the Tt» f„ii r^ Tl"}* ^/ * ^"^/^ P'<'^ between stoppages, ibe toUowing table for woolen and worsted goods establishmpntQ tne?snforH*'°'^/ ^>^ ^T"? «P^^''*«d bf the wealJ^wS e£n?ro?th«lP'"'''^"''*'^f «ffi«jency together with the relative S ner ?f in^l Tf ^^^P.^^d m each establishment and average DICKS per minute, picks per inch, average yards woven nor Inom ™r &eLh S! "''^"'^^ *^^ "' -^-^-^nloftrd'JroTuctgnre n 00 s m ^^ REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDITLE K. o B O • •Ml o G 9 e > o 1 W s 9 xi o 2 a o .a O o o o z w o o 8 i o s si •--+* g.-i-- (Mr- C ro «5 »H ® e4 •o--::: to too C^ C«0 00 r^ COM lA to 0> pi c4 1^ tOv^ oo» • CO ■?0 SS8 doo ,CO ' iO CD»-t dao ^8 8 CO o !§8«c? • • ■ ■ i-iWtOi-t . -IT -^ to •^i-HOi cc . o »o ■ i-< CO i-o -*i . rH TJ- X C5 N N • t-H tH CO P< OtO ir: N NO or* to uj 00 r* «Q0 asos r^tOMWd o o • ^o o ■ w t^. 00 C CC O ■ C4 — < r*^< in to -^ t^ X 00 :odcc to g*"" f—t ^ W "2 0\ *^ ^^ &gX5j£"5E§ tpCI501Qp»^Oi-*'«"OOM>0 ei0»O»OtOi— '©I'^f'OtDCC'^ guj O ■«1< » CO 00 :»} t-~ ■* c* lO t» . l'^ ■^ <-H -^ CS i-< o totp050-<*<^O5^-^C0Dic^«tOt6rH*'ec>o »-H f—4 ^^ «H| 1—H iw^ ^— 4 w^ ^H .^ 1.H C^ 5 CO o Q Q toc5-i"i-ti»Ct~" rOWC5iCO»i--Hi-iXt» o6c>»c^ecd»-*i^ecrH 1— t f^ C*l 1—1 1—4 r-t 1—1 1^ f— H 1— t Ol 1— t 1— < 1— ' 1—* 1^ *J *a 03 5 — t" *^ gi2 ®5«' ftg CU •-* -3 ftg^ OScOCSO^COCCOO'i'QeONQOtDatOMOOOlO iOO?S« COM coos i-^010«tO©»OC»10iCeO»OtDa ic«0'i'OSi-Hd'Co6ino6coi-3dcsu5to:oc»5Q6t>^i-I 1-1 N C< 1-4 rH i-( 1-t N CC 04 CS i-l *&gj2 ^^^ P,g c^t—oioQ'-t'-ON'^-^pt^topp ■atoio'j'in^ 1-1 oi 1-1 iH l-H rH 1-1 cS 3^ S ^flj C i; © i0 0iC«O ^OI^CO t* iO( ^ 00 O CO • 1— 4 iH ■*o S OQOCI »C to « -^ U5 CO oc pji-i 00 KNNeo 3- OS. iCioosi-i©aor*osi-f^Qt*i-iii;o5fOiMMaO'fQO 1 O t>. C» 1-1 QO 00 C -"T 00 Ol CO rH C Ol 00 I*' OOOl-i ia!io-io6-^«ot«i o > © > teocr-tOico*iotOLCtO'voi»cooeoO'o NcoeoeoiocoNC^'ii'eOi-5co(Ncie«(Ni-H">*eoeo-* |S.as ■*(NiiOOO:Or*.-iCCCCtetOtDOCO©l^-r^O eoc«eoeccocsi»o"3c5eoioco»0'9'eO"«'toe--^c>»(Nt*t*'«»'cofC^o>c^T-iCMiot^u5m cooiict-~t--'>re*iri:*tocoOi— icof'^toc'i-ftooi QCcoesi-H 25J^tDccotc>0'^'^o-^-«i<-«tit*aoooo©aOi-i<«->»«i050h-000 g C4 ooooooooooooooooooooo F" i o 00' % o 1 ■CI 03' m a o o o Q H o f 03 I f 1 9 3 § I I a m a M mm s s a w w :3 fa o I ^00 p,g '"'I* o ILm '**^ ^Jft m {HI} fc^ '<|^ O) CO liQ « • « • "OjO • C< lO 00 • roc* .^-^oi '■••••• 3S o> . t^ h- nri . . uj 38 (M ^ —* • -^ r^ h- OS ■ lO O >-i • T CN X ^J ■ ^ T-1 • C4 1— < I— ( • t-i •OOSOI ^ x> »o ^ 'csi • CO »o »c •^. CO o • OC t— lO . 40 <— • OJ ■WM -^ :S g - !-♦; '.tZ '. '. ' 5S 3 J2 52 ® • f M o r^ i^ « lo I ^' • • • us .-< -tfi f-« (o . ■^ fi -v go "V S|.ill|3s| 8 -^'eo O M ci ■«; a -^ Q « o "» JO r^ lO w io c^ --* V ■* CO •«; 'xS d oj »^ »-• c« i-«t e» i-t 1-1 1-( t-H i-« »-<,-( r-» ,^ ,-1 f4 _, §8c5^aj!5:2SgS^S?!SS8JoSSS8gi223^ tN P^ ■-• ««J Ol i-i p4 rl C4 r-1 T-i 1— I 8&|I||S|§ ^1 P.g^ 8 C I; O S5I« :S5lS2SSag :SS8Sg3^S O"* .'dJ'^S'^^**^ • C* f-i 00 ■^ ^ ci « ■3^2 '"t' lO CO "V ''C 1^ fZ^ CD 00 ' -4 .•J5 5505 5 > 9 > "*^ « B 5 o ^** i »-< w pi c» ci oi ci c» oi w ci w .90 39.39 5.13 6.06 Females Total 71. 67 99.32 67.35 1.82 2.53 6.94 50.00 37.50 5.56 Establishment No. 19: Males 44.6.3 60.25 100.00 98.75 50.00 50.00 1.48 3.^2 100.00 Females 2.00 3.31 25.00 50.00 ^5. 00 Total 52.28 99.29 50.00 1.73 3.32 14.29 28.57 57.14 1 Establishment No. 20: Males 70.97 54.90 108.12 117.95 41.06 44.24 3.33 2.50 4.70 4.09 "3."4i" 54.55 35.23 33. 33 54.54 12.12 6.82 Females Total 59.01 115.09 43.42 2.71 4.59 2.48 40. £0 48.76 8.26 Establishment No, 21: Males 64.05 62.17 110.53 120.00 60.09 58.31 1.97 2.12 3.07 3.41 30.23 23.08 • 65.12 65.38 4.65 11.54 Females ---•-••• Total 63.35 114. 10 59 42 *> n9 3.19 27.54 65.22 7.24 • 1056 KEPOBT OF TABIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. BEFORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1057 PKODUCTIVE EFFICIENCY IN WEAVING IN WOOLEN MILLS IN THE UNITED STATES FOR MALES AND FEMALES. Table 74. ^Average efficiency, average speed of horns, average number of picks per inch tn fabrics, average number of yards woven per hour, and percentage of total looms atiaimng specified grades of productive efficiency, by establishments. Ave^ J effl- cienc; of mil (per cent). Aver age speed of ' looms G>ickj per min- ute). Aver- age picks . l>er ' inchii fabrics Average yards Per cent of total looms in each mill on woven per loom which the weaver's productive efficiency per hour— was — Establishment am sex. ^i^^ Of 70 per 50 per 30 per 1 ,!,V^ actual 90 per .^^^^ ^ cent cent Less ^ timfof Prodiic- center ^^}l less but less but less than ^.? ing over ^^ '^^^n than 30 per '^^'" time. 90 per 70 per 50 per ceAt. *"• cent. cent. cent. Establishment No. ] Males : . 60.56 . 56.97 98.59 98.06 36 32 34.28 2.88 2.83 4.76 4.97 . 19.23 - 10.66 60.58 62.67 20.19 26.67 Females -•■.•••* Total 59.04 OS 97 35.45 2.86 4.85 - 15.64 61.45 22.91 ........ Establishment No. 2 Males Females .' 64 55 . 57. 78 93.98 94.00 26.16 26.63 3.24 3.43 5.95 5.94 20.63 18.75 47.62 62.50 31.75 18.75 Total 55.09 1 93.99 26.25 3.28 3.17 3.44 5.95 4.66 5.00 20.26 50.63 29.11 Establishment No. 3 Males 68.06 92.54 92.55 33.77 30.54 45.83 48.28 37.50 4L38 16.67 10.34 Females 68.75 Total 68.32 9"' nH 32.56 . 3.27 4.79 46. 75 38.96 14.29 Establishment No. 4: Males Females 74.52 72. 15 9163 92.00 30.00 30.00 3.89 3.69 5.11 5.11 7.41 69.26 68.75 33.33 3L25 Total 73. 65 ) 91. 77 30.00 ■I Tfl 1 E t 1 4.65 1 62.79 32.56 O- 4Q u. n ' Establishment No. 5: Males 75.10 73.54 96.85 90.45 34.31 33.19 3.71 3.56 4.94 4.84 2.35 6.38 64.71 6L70 31.76 27.66 -^ 30.30 Females 1.18 4.26 Total Establishment No. 6: Males Females Total 74.54 1 96.71 33.91 23197 23.13 3.65 3.06 3.51 4.90 5.68 6.09 3.79 63.64 1.51 0.76 53. 96 91. 32 49.58 94.99 0.47 6.61 L90 45.28 48.58 45.28 47.62 2.38 1.90 52. 63 92. 42 25.09 3.20 6.08 0.32 5.04 46.37 46.06 2.21 Establishment No. 7: Males 74.44 92.22 59.78 52.67 50.16 2.06 2.35 2.52 2.77 3.70 70.37 — 1. 25.93 Establishment No. 8: Males 7L49 76.59 103.56 100.00 3.29 3.29 55.56 23.08 Females 44.44 76.92 Total 74.63 101 47 51.18 2.45 3.29 . 63.64 36.36 Establishment No. 9: Males 69.35 65.47 a5.80 95.71 23.39 23.10 4.97 4.54 7.16 . 6.94 "5.66" 44.90 35.00 48.98 45.00 6.12 . 15.00 . Females Total ; 68.43 95.77 100.47 98.64 23.30 36.97 34-62 4.86 7.11 1.45 42.02 47.83 8.70 . Establishment No. 10: Males Femah^s 6-(.0O 69.41 3.05 3.39 4.77 . 4.89 'i.'82" 48.89 43.64 37.78 49.09 13.33 . 5.45 . *...■>>• Total 67. 12 99.48 35.68 3.25 4.84 1.00 46.00 44.00 9.00 . Establishment No. 11: Males 65.43 68.07 89.50 89.00 55.00 66.80 L84 LS9 1.86 2.82 . 2.77 - 20.00 60.00 80.00 . 20.00 Females 20.00 . Total 66.42 89.33 55.60 2.80 33.33 1 60.00 6.67 . PRODUCTIVE EFFICIENCY IN WEAVING IN WOOLEN MILLS IN THE UNITED STATES FOB MALES AND FEMALES — Continued. Table 74. — Average efficiency, average speed of looms, average number of picks per inch in fabrics, average number of yards woven per hour, and percentage of total looms attaining specified grades of productive efficiency, by establishments — Continued. Aver- age effl- cienev of mill (per cent). Aver- age speed of looms (picks per min- ute). Aver- age picks ■per inch in fabrics. Average yards woven per loom per hour— Per cent of total looms in each mill on which the weaver's productive efficiency was — Establishment and sex. Of total weav- ing time of weav- ers. Of actual produc- ing time. 90 per cent or over. 70 per 50 per 30 per cent cent cent but less but less but less than than than 90 per 70 per 50 per cent. cent. cent. Less than 30 per cent. Establishment No. 12: Males 68.97 70.31 97.33 96.77 34.36 34.95 3.53 3.54 5.12 5.04 5.88 5.00 47.06 47.50 35.29 47.50 n.77 Females Total 69.73 1 97.04 34.68 3.54 5.07 5.41 47.29 4L89 5.41 Establishment No. 13: Males 80.14 77.02 100.41 94.80 52.34 48.38 2.80 2.53 3.50 3.29 10.34 4.76 79.32 85.72 10.34 4.76 Females 4.76 Total 78.80 1 OR. 15» ! 50.68 2.69 3.41 8.00 82.00 8.00 2.00 Establishment No. 14: Males 73.92 73.68 94.08 97.92 42.07 42.00 2.83 2.89 3.82 3.92 "7.69' 70.37 6L54 25.93 30.77 9 Tn Females o. lU 1 Total 73.85 95.39 49 nr^ 2.85 3.85 2.50 67.50 27.50 2.50 Establi-shment No. 15: Males 69.46 61.26 104.00 95.77 38.00 39.43 2.70 2.45 3. 89 4.00 100.00 65.71 "- -- '—■ -m Females -..-.... 20.00 14.29 Total 62.00 96.42 1 39.32 2.48 3.99 18.42 68.42 13.16 Establishment No. 16: Malps 73.93 79.17 95.52 95.25 47.57 46.22 2.44 2.69 3.29 3.39 3.57 5.56 75.00 72.22 14.29 22.22 7.14 Females Total 76.00 95.41 47 ru 2.53 3.33 4.35 73.91 17.39 4.35 Establishment No. 17: Males 77.14 73.84 87.06 88.45 69.82 67.33 1.13 1.60 2.08 2.16 11.43 12.50 57.14 58.34 28.57 20.83 2.86 8.33 Females Total 75.80 87.62 fiR-7Q 1 1.60 2.12 11.86 57.63 25.42 5.09 Establishment No. 18: Males 58.48 60.42 96.04 96.61 24.18 24.33 4.54 5.12 7.77 8.48 1.67 3.33 28.33 20.00 51.67 56.67 15.00 13.33 Females 3.33 6.67 Total 59.14 96.25 24.22 4.74 8.02 2.22 25.56 53.33 14.44 4.45 Establishment No. 19: Males 65.16 65.43 90.00 93.89 30.81 30.73 3.17 3.42 4.86 5.22 1.06 4.35 40.42 4L31 48.94 52.17 7.45 2.17 2.13 Females Total 65.26 9:^.47 30.78 3.25 4.98 2.14 40.72 50.00 5.71 L43 Establishment No. 20: Males 61. 32 54.18 94.67 94.62 28.53 26.12 3.44 3.47 5.60 6.39 2.86 5.88 20.00 5.88 57.14 47.06 5.71 4L18 14.29 Females Total 58.98 94.65 - 27.73 3.45 5.84 3.85 15.38 53.85 17.31 9.61 Establishment No. 21: Males 60.51 61.61 105.07 104.72 26. 17 25.78 4.53 4.60 7.49 7.46 18.18 19.44 71.21 69.45 10.61 11.11 Females Total 60.89 104.95 26.04 4.56 7.48 18.63 70.59 10.78 .V 1058 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. Table 73 throws light on the question of whether males or females are more slallf ul as worsted weavers. On the whole it appears that female worsted weavers are fuUv as eftcient as males. In three of the 21 worsted mills shown in table 73 only male weavers were employed, and in each mill the average elliciency was high. ^ In five establislmients (Nos. 2, 4, 9, 11, and 17) the female weavers Jiad a higher average efficiency than the males, but the margin of supenority was slight. In two establishments (Nos. 13 ajid 14) the maiigm m favor of the female weavers was larger, while in two others {Noa. 16 and 19) the superiority of the females was very marked In other words, m 9 of the 1 8 mills for which a comparison can be made the females were more efficient. And in this connection, it may be noted tnat m mm JNo. 19, which was mentioned above as having the lowest average efficiencT of anv of the worsted mills, the female weavers had a fair efficiency but the mefficiency of the males—the greatest shown for that sex in any of the above miUs—brought the average for the mill to a low pomt ^^ TkT^^,^¥ ^^^^^ ^^^^^' ^^^^ were more efficient in establishments J|Ios. 1, 3, 5, 10, 12, 15, 18, 20, and 21, but in only one (No. 20) was their supenonty marked. . j \ / «^ Although female weavers show, on the whole, a higher average efficiency, they are not to be found in the highest group— 90 per cent and over— m so large relative numbers as the mde«. On the other ^and, they are found a httle more often in the lowest group— less than 30 per cent. © r In woolen mills, as in worsted mills, female weavers are fullv as ellicient as male weavers. A comparison of the relative efficiencv of the sexes can be made for 20 of the 21 woolen mills shown in table 74 In 10 establishments (Nos. 2, 3, 8, 10, 11, 12, 16, 18, 19, and 21) the averages shown for females are higher than those for males. In two establishments (Nos. 3 and 21) the margin of superiority is slight and m no case IS It marked. ^ "s ^; In 10 establishments (Nos. 1, 4, 5, 6, 9, 13, 14, 15, 17, and 20) the male weavers were more efficient. In one case the margin in favor of the males was very little. ^ nf *^®.^ol^owmg tables a more detailed comparative study of the mill elliciency is possible by a presentation of efficiencv data on specified woolen and worated fabrics : REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1059 PRODUCTIVE EFFICIENCY IN THE WEAVING OP BPECIPIED WOOLEN FABRICS IN MILLS IN THE UNITED STATES. verage efficiency, average speed of looms, average picks per inch in fabrics, ber of yards woven per hour and percentage of total looms attaining specified /fiirfivfi fifii(vipv.ni. mi fijitnhlijthm.fin.fs. Table 75. — A — y.. .j,.- average number of yards woven per nour arui pert grades of productive efficiency, by establishments Average Per cent of total looms on specified yards woven fabrics in each mill on which the Average Aver- per! oom weaver's productive efficiency , efficiency age Aver- per hoiu"— was — % of all weavers speed of age picks Establislmient and fabric. on speci- fied fabrics (per cent). looms (picks per min- ute). per inch in fab- rics. Of to- tal weav- ing time of weav- er. Of ac- tual pro- duc- ing time. 90i)er cent and over. 70 per cent but 1p.ss than 90. 50 per cenf but less than 70. 30 per cent but less than 50. Less than 30 per cent. Plain cheviots: Establishment No. 1 . . 72.44 99.84 31.84 3.79 6.23 3.85 53.84 38.46 3.85 Establishment No. 2.. 83.77 102. 70 44.25 3.17 3.94 8.33 79.17 8.33 4.17 Establishment No. 3.. 68.22 92.38 28.94 3.37 4.94 42.86 50.00 7.14 Establishment No. 4. . 63.23 98.82 34.00 3.02 4.78 36.36 45.46 18.18 Establishment No. 5. . 69.14 93.33 31.47 3.95 5.71 6.67 40.00 40.00 13.33 Establishment No. 6. . 73.65 92.00 30.00 3.76 5.11 4.65 62.79 32.56 Fancy cheviots: Establishment No. 1 . . 71.23 95.79 24.10 4.84 6.79 48.27 44.83 6.90 Plain eassimeres: Establishment No. 1.. 75.81 94.41 35.24 3.49 4.62 1.47 70.59 25.00 1.47 1.47 Establishment No. 2. . 69.28 92.51 32.09 3.16 4.53 50.00 38.64 11.36 Establishment No. 3. . 70.38 99.52 38.44 2.92 4.20 3.70 48.16 44.45 3.70 Establishment No. 4. . 78.11 97.97 35.79 3.21 4.11 7.«) 55.26 34.21 2.63 Establishment No. 5. . 71.49 96.45 29.90 3.86 6.44 61.90 • 38.10 Fancy eassimeres: Establishment No. 1 . . 67.03 96.72 24.53 4.38 6.54 1.96 35.29 50.98 11.77 Establishment No. 2.. 67. J.8 100.00 41.52 2.58 3.84 52.17 39.13 8.70 Establishment No. 3. . 63.81 94.00 25.58 3.89 6.09 50.00 33.33 16.67 Establishment No. 4. . 62.82 95. 68 39.03 2.45 3.90 18.92 64.86 16.22 Establishment No. 5. . 67.81 98.00 40.17 2.76 4.08 54.17 41.67 4.16 Establishment No. 6. . 75.22 84.86 49.20 2.57 3.42 6.25 70.84 20.83 2.08 Plain overcoatings and cloalcings: Establishment No. 1. . 77.30 61.47 97.09 115.33 63.82 29.60 2. .32 3.88 3.00 6. .31 90.91 26.67 9.09 60.00 Establishment No. 2.. 13.33 Establishment No. 3. . 54.44 93.92 24.17 3.65 6.71 10.53 52.63 34-21 2.63 Establishment No. 4. . 76.78 59.43 92.20 107. 21 77.00 22.44 1.97 5.07 2.66 8.64 14.28 64.29 13.46 21.43 71.15 Establishment No. 6. , 15.39 Establishment No. 6. . 58.86 99.47 34.69 2.90 4.93 15.62 60.94 23.44 Establishment No. 7 . . 65.38 78.80 62.40 1.45 2.62 80.00 20.00 Fancy overcoatings and cloakings: • Establishment No. 1 . . 62.33 93.13 22.63 3.73 7.13 0.37 4.51 43.61 48.50 3.01 Establishment No. 2. . 53.33 95.12 21.05 4-41 8.27 2.38 11.91 69.52 19.06 7.14 Establishment No. 3. . 64.69 60.84 108.00 93.38 22.00 42.50 5.27 2.24 8.14 3.68 40.00 18.76 60.00 66.25 Establishment No. 4. . 25.00 Establishment No. 5. . 50.66 93.98 26.40 3.13 6.17 13.11 62.46 34.43 Broadcloths: Establishment No. 1. . 57.79 109.52 56.05 1.97 3.40 13.17 65.84 20.64 0.35 Establishment No. 2.. 61.57 97.30 44.00 2.27 3.69 16.38 69.24 15-38 Plain woolens: Establishment No. 1.. Establishment No. 2. . 59.64 64.10 95.00 98.89 14.00 30.00 6.71 3,60 11.26 5.62 33.33 16.67 50.00 75.00 16.67 8.33 Establishment No. 3.. 69.49 96.80 42.60 2.79 4.01 66.67 11-11 22.22 Establishment No. 4. . 58.93 97.03 32.03 2.88 4.89 10.81 63.51 25.68 Establishment No. 5. . 65.29 97.67 20.17 6.63 8.62 25.00 50.00 25.00 Ladies' fancy dress goods: Establishment No. 1 . . 64.01 89.63 31.24 3.05 4.75 1.11 32.22 56.67 7.78 2.22 Establishment No. 2. . 68.56 101.75 40.83 2.43 4.16 8-33 75.00 16.67 Establishment No. 3. . Carriage and auto cloths: 62.05 96.00 14.00 0.68 10.68 20.00 70.00 10.00 Establishments Nos. 1 t0 4 61.92 105.71 28.14 4.20 6.79 14.29 78.57 7.14 Uniform cloths: Establishment No. 1 . . 81.94 87.87 67.07 1.79 2.19 11.32 54.72 28. ."M) 5.66 Establishment No. 2. . 59.63 75.97 97.76 101. 67 44.69 60.10 3.03 2.45 5.08 3.23 6.88 82.35 63.64 11.77 36.36 Establishment No. 3. . 1060 REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. PmODtJCTIVE EFFICIENCY IN THE WE AVI NO OF SPECIFIED WORSTED FABRICS IN MILLS IN THE UNITED STATES. Table 7i}.— Average efficiency, average speed of looms, average pkls per inch in fabrics average number of yards woven per hour, and percentage of total looms attaining sped- Jted grades of productive efficiency, by estabHshments. Establishment and fabric. Avwtge offlclency of all weavers on speci- fied fabrics • (per cent). Fancy worsteds: Establishment No. 1.. Estabiishment No. 2. . Establishment No. 3.. EsfabHshment No. 4.. Establishment No. 5.. Establi-shment No. 8-. Establishment No. 7.. Establishment No. 8.. Establishment No. 9. . Establishment No. 10. Establishment No. 11, Plain serge: Establishment No. 1 . . Establishment No. 2.. Establishment No. 3. . Establishment No. 4.. Establishment No. 5. . Establishment No. 6- . Estabhshment No. 7.. Establi.shment No. 8.. Establishment No. 9. , Establishment No. 10. Fincy serse: Estabiislmient No. 1 . . .KltaiMiwiiiiient No. 2. . EstaMMmient No. 3. . Establishment No. 4.. Plain worsteds: Establishment No. 1 . . EstabUshment No. 2. . EslmliliakiiMnt No. 3. . Batablishment No. 4.. Establishinent No. 5 . . Establtshment No. 6. . Establifliuiient No. 7. . Establishmeiit No. 8. . Mohair, alpaea, and lustar dnsBgoiMiB'aiMl Uniiigs* teS-.-. ' . 68.08 68.43 70.51 72.55 67.00 63.35 65.85 72.28 76. -18 82.00 69.16 84.15 84.92 65.73 89.15 fXI. DO 75.85 80.57 77.14 76.39 81.67 67.77 86.29 60.37 76.56 80.M 73.08 SI. 05 63.91 flS.08 6I».17 65.82 91.68 65.47 Aver- age speed of looms (picks per min- ute). Aver- age picks per inch in fab- rics. Average yards woven per loom per hour— Per cent of total looms on sixx-ified fabric in each mill on which the weaver's productive efflciency was— 103.50 107. 41 112.00 108.07 122.19 113. 76 129.11 104.35 100.08 92. a3 112.25 120.00 124. 10 121.25 120.00 124.67 116.72 96.94 121.60 93.39 125.53 120.85 118. 16 108. 13 81.94 100.97 96. 31 107.56 12a 59 104.27 104.50 128.00 92.00 169.30 66.75 55.96 61.42 56.76 65.08 59.42 52. IS 54.00 119.54 75.11 48.05 46.00 60.85 68.95 52. .50 65.14 61.11 53.18 58.03 63.45 45.81 52.43 61.69 34.19 67.60 64.60 62.19 66.17 68.35 48.89 56.93 51.20 64.25 48.22 Of to- tal weav- ing time of weav- 1.76 2.22 2.12 2.19 2.51 2.03 2-76 2.38 3.15 1.76 2.72 3.04 2.83 2.27 3.04 2.55 2.33 2.46 2.79 1.93 3.85 2.58 2.01 3.00 1.90 2.25 1.88 2.12 1.94 2.43 2.17 2.79 2.21 3.05 Of ac- tual Sro- uo- ing time. 2.59 3.24 3.01 3.16 3.74 3.20 4.19 3.18 4.13 2.15 a92 4.47 3.33 3.46 3.41 3.82 3.08 3.06 3.61 2.53 4.71 a 81 aos 4.95 2.48 2.80 2.57 2.53 3.03 .3.74 a 14 4.24 2.41 4.65 90 per cent and over. „ "70 per cent but less than 90 per cent. 2.60 1.00 9.10 i6.70 23.00 37.50 a 00 a 20 11.80 22.60 1.90 6.50 0.90 22.30 16.00 1.90 4.00 12.80 5.90 6.70 1.10 30.00 62.50 41.00 49.00 58.30 37.90 36.70 27.50 37.50 60.00 76.90 72.20 48.70 46.20 72.20 40.50 62.50 38.60 62.80 64.70 60.40 7a 60 9a 50 45.40 76.70 18.70 60.00 94.20 60.00 87.20 17.60 23.30 4a 80 60.00 37.30 30.40 50 per cent but less than 70 per cent. 30 per cent but less than 50 per cent I/ess than 30 per cent. 48.70 45. 10 41.70 62.10 64.10 65.20 57.10 31.80 23.10 11.10 48.70 52.40 4.30 52.40 70 90 8.20 7.30 6.40 9.10 49.80 32.00 23.50 17.00 22.60 41.70 1.00 4a 80 20.00 a 90 29.40 2.60 2.40 0.50 7.10 8.60 2.00 1.90 12.00 37. .W 4.00 64.70 5a 30 48.10 10.00 64.10 5.30 11.80 16.70 7.00 5.50 1.30 In the firet of the above tables efficiency data on 1 1 staple woolen fabrics are shown and from these it would appear that in general a higher efficiency can be secured in weaving a plain fabric than a fancy one. For instance, higher averages are shown on plain cassi- meres than on fancy cassbneres ; likewise for plain overcoatings as compared with fancy overcoatings. This is not surprising since a fancy fabric is more difficult to weave than a plain fabric, because of a more complicated construction, or the use of several colors of filling, or both. The highest efficiency on any woolen fabric is shown for plain cheviots— 83.77 per cent in establishment No. 2, and the next highest, 81.94 per cent, for uniform cloths. The lowest efficiency figures are shown for fancy overcoatings and cloakings— 50.66, 52.33, and 53.33 per cent. EEPOET OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 1061 It will be observed further that on the same line of fabrics there are wide differences between establishments, except perhaps in plain cflfSsiniGrGS It will be observed in the second of the tables above that, on the whole, a higher average efficiency was secured in the weaving of plain serges than for any other worsted fabric shown. Five of the ten mifls had an average of more than 80 per cent. The averages for plain serge were much better than for fancy serges. Three of the eight mills making plain worsteds had an average of more than 80 per cent, one having an average of 91 .68 per cent. On the whole, better results — so far as productive efficiency was concerned — were secured in weaving plain worsteds than on fancy worsteds. The following tables show the number of looms, but it can be said that each loom represents a weaver and accordingly, in the following discussion, the term ''weaver" will be used interchangeably with ''loom." iBut it should be stated in this connection that in a great majority of cases, operatives weaving plain or fancy serges, or plain and fancy worsteds, tend two looms, while the yardage shown in the following tables is the product of one loom. If the weaver was producing on both of his looms a plain serge, with the same number of picks per inch and same speed of loom, his produc- tion on the two looms would be twice as great, under good conditions, as on one loom. But in many cases the fabric, speed, or picks per inch are not the same on the two looms operated by the weaver. The following table shows the number and per cent of looms upon wliich plain serges were woven and upon which the specified yardage was produced per 10 hours of the actual weaving time of the weaver: Table 77. — Production of plain serge fabrics, classified by number of picks per inch and by speed of loom, with the number and percentage of looms on which specified yardage of doth was woven in a day of 10 hours. [ Based on weavers' efficiency data for a number of worsted goods establishments.] Kind of cloth. PLAIN SERGE. 43 picks per inch. 44 picks per inch. 45 picks per inch. 46 picks per inch. 48 picks per inch. 49 picks per inch. SOpicks per inch. 52picks per inch. 54picks per inch. 55 picks per inch. 56picks per inch. 58picks per inch. 59 picks per inch. 60 picks per inch. 62picks per inch. 64 picks per inch. 65picks per inch. 66picks per inch. eSpicks per inch. 72picks per inch. 74picks per inch. 76 picks per inch. a ft a 5 o Is "a Number and per cent of looms on specified cloths ujwn which the yards woven per 10 hours of actual weaving time of weavers (exclusive of idle time waiting for warp, filling, loom fixing) were — 37 yards and over. S 3 120 125 121 126 126 120 122 120 125 126 123 1251. 109. 124. 122'- 119' 114;. 109. 1031- 118,. 116'. 12o!. 39 8 3 84 22 1 1 o l-l 30.71 3a34 6.00 42.64 3a 60 L18 L82 33 to 36 yards. o a a 8 29 to 32 yards. 25 to 28 yards. a 3 'A 35 8 19 41 10 17 16 21 12 1 33 46 27.56 3a 34 38.00 20.81 17.54 20.00 29.09 20.19 22.64 L22 1L79 14.46 a 8 u 30 1 19 37 5 21 7 25 24 11 114 158 131 55 2a 62 4.16 38.00 1&78 &77 24 70 12.73 24 04 45.28 13.41 40.72 49.69 a 40.06 27.63 12 6 5 22 9 30 11 30 16 33 79 84 4 115 46 96 42 1 21 to 24 yards. B ^ a 8 u Ph 9.45 20.84 10.00 1L17 15.79 35.29 20.00 2a 85 30.19 40.24 28.21 26.42 8.88 35.17 23.12 3&86 9.50 3.12 2.44 2.78 8 2 4 8' 12 12 17 1 27 37 21 26 59 63 88 230 19 39 14 17 ' 18 16 to 20 yards. u M 6.30 &32 &00 406 14 04 14 12 24 82 16.35 L89 32.93 13.21 a60 57.78 18.04 3L66 35.63 52.04 59.38 67.35 3415 34 00 5a 00 5 3 3 5 a 8 2 36 54 26 53 09 69 9 13 7 14 19 31 51 162 12 24 20 33 15 10. 4 2. 3L 5. 15. 20. 36. 37. 35. 48. 6d 4L 98 64 20 12 81 58 65 65 50 29 78 00 67 Less than 16 yards. a 8 o 1 4 2 1 3 4 12 8 L18 5.45 2.88 L22 L43 0.63 2.22 0.92 2.01 486 4 81 7.36 14 63 5.55 127 24 50 197 57 85 55 104 53 82 280 318 45 327 199 247 442 32 68 41 50 36 32080"— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 29 1062 REPOET OF TAHIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. The above table shows the ratiRe of production of plain ser^e of the fIbricTn°tKZf;f ' tT"^- < P'f» -^g° H '^ «tanfe and a J'taSdard labnc in the industry. The output of a number of^estabhshments ia fclfS-""'V°'°P°'*"^ ""! '^'^'^' '^"•^ i* '« « f-^bric from which th^ over wholly to this fabric day al'ter day for the entire year, nf Twl^L^^'^T \^^ ^f'^.^*' produced in the actual weaving time ft witr^" '.?*'l"'^"'^/^° *r^ ^^^ ^«'"" ^'^ in motion and the time for w«rn ?£il ° ^* ^¥' "'^ exchange bobbms, but excluding waiti for warp or filhng or loom fmng. the table shows the speed and ?I SXfr Tt "* "^^ ^"^P, ""^ ^°'"?^\ .1° g'"^'"-«l it can bo said that the lower the number of picks per mcli in a fabric the faster it can be ThJ^iJlT^ t*? ^M*'*^ '''**' the number of picks per mch and IVh^rnf^tT ^^'^ tho same the faster the loom tfie lai^er the nrck, npr i^r f °- *" ^^™ /"I'"" ^^''^ <"*" '^'^ ^^"^''n- The number of Ihan t^/s^eed of \hfS'' '°"''"'''-' '^ '""'^^ '""''^ '""P-^-* ^^t- 4ili!l!t J-! .t°^^ .*^f ^ "^ ^e»ve« were weaving a plain serge having 43 picks to the inch at a speed of 120 picks per imnute. Of the total hou^ TsTe"^;'^' "^St'^P"' ''«'"*'/-'•"?« J 37 vards and over in 10 hours, 35 weavers, or 27.6 per cent, produced from 33 to 36 yards in 10 hours; 30 weavers, or 23.6 per cent, produced from 29 to 33 f ? to '^4 varX''wh'][rt'''* '^ *" -' l^"*^;,^ ^«'^^«« produced from houra ^ ' ^"^^ ^ weavers produced from 16 to 20 yards in 10 to the inch nt t^JlT^TiT^"^ T'^ weaving a seigo having G5 picks in ?0*hou^*^'41f w^J'""' *-' Z ^-^ P^"" ''^"*' P^'dueed 25 to 28 yards i6'> weavP^' nr J« '^'^' *"" P^ P*"", '=''"> Produced 21 to 24 yards; ibJ weavers or 36.6 per cent, produced 16 to 20 yards- while 8 weavers produced less than 16 yards in 10 hours. ^ ' It should be borne iii mind that the smaUer production in varda'" ^r'"''» ^^''^^'•^ ^^^ * number of dilS- ent establishments makmg the same class of goods. This aoDliea also to other goods shown in the following tables: PP asU'^sStr^aile^ir '"""'^ "''^'' ^''^'"'^ '^' '^"^^ ^"'^'"tiona BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1063 Table 78. — Production offarwy serge fabrics, classijwd by number of picks per inch, cmd bv speed of loom, with the number and percentage of looms on which specified yardage of Cloth was woven in a day of 10 hours. {Based on wesureis' effieieoicj data Dor a rmmher of worsted estabiJshBieaits.] Kind of cloth. FANCY SEBOS. 47 picks per incb. . fiO picks per inch. . 54 picks per inch. . 65 picks per inch.. 58 picks per mch. . 60 picks per inch. . 64 picks per inch. . 65 picks per inch.- 66 picks pCTiTK*h.. 70 picks per inch.. 81 picks per iach.- 5 •a •OR SQ ^ 121 117 1191 121 111 IM 120 113 i05 110 IDS Number and per cent of looms oa specified cloths upon which the yards woven per 10 hours of actual weaving time of weavers (exclusive of idle tkafi vaitksg ior warp, fiUiog, k>om fixing) yreie — 37 yards ana over. 4.48 2.63 33 to 36 ■jrards. ^ IS 2 a 26.87 5.26 2.63 29to32 yards. J ^ 15 10 8 5 8 3 23 a S 22.® 26.32 17.78 13.16 20.51 3.66 33.33 25 to 28 yaids. ^ ^ 14 14 17 14 14 35 28 5 8 20.89 36. S4 37.78 36.84 35.90 42. ( 40.58 9.62 21 to 24 yards. I a 9 7 13 12 12 18 12 29 12 1 a 8 13.43 18.42 28.89 31.58 33.33 21.95 17.39 38. 4« 17.39 5.36 16 to 20 yards. J ^ t 4 7 € 4 22 4 21 53 12 19 ^ 10.45 10.53 15.55 15.79 10.2tV 26.83 5.80 40.38 76.81 €3.16 61.29 Less than 16 yards. 4 2 6 4 6 12 a 8 1.49 4.88 2.90 11.54 5.80 31.58 38.71 8 2 o 67 38 45 38 89 82 69 52 m 19 31 In Table 78 the same general results are noted as in the table for plain sei^e. In weaving, on looms of average speed of 121 picks per minute, fancy serge fabrics having 47 picks per inch, 67 weavers were engaged, of whom only 36 were able to weave 29 or more yards in a day of 10 hours, only 21 weavers producing more than 32yards. In weaving fancy serges having more than 50 picks per inch, there was only one weaver out of 444 who was able to weave more than 32 yards per day of 10 hours. This weaver made from 33 to 36 yards, but operated a loom making 120 picks per minute. Only 48 weavers among 444 engaged in making fancy serges having more than 50 picks per inch were able to weave more than 28 yards per day. f% "I J 1064 BEPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDTTLE K, The following tables for plain and fancy worsteds present the same data as shown above for serges: Table 79. — Production of plain andfanr^ worsted fabrics, classified hy number of picks per inch and by speed of loom, vAth the number and percentage of looms on which specified yardage of cloth was woven in a day of 10 hours. {Based oa weavers' efliciency data for a number of worsted goods establiskments.] Kindofclotb. Aver- age speed of looms (pick per min- ute). PLAm WORSTED. 48 picks M picks 52 picks 56 picks 58 picks 60 picks 62 picks 64 picks 68 picks 70 picks 74 picks 80 picks per inch per inch per inch per inch per inch per inch per inch per inch, per inch, per inch . per inch. per inch. FANCY WORSTED. 46 picks per inch. 48 picks per inch. 50 picks per inch . 62 picks per inch . 64 picks per inch. 56 picks per inch. 68 picks per inch. 60 picks per inch . 64 picks per inch . 68 picks per inch. 72 picks per inch. Number and per cent of looms on specified cloths upon which the yards woven per 10 hours of actual weaving time of weavers (exclusive of idle time waiting for warp, filling, loom fixing) were— 37 yards and over. z s 3 S5 109 109 116 103 108 100 105 104 113 112 107 111 123 115 117 123 121 116 118 112 101 117 112 33 to 36 yards. a 8 26.31 5.00 1.90 z 1 a 4 2 10 is 29 to 32 yards. 14.28 6.00 9.62 3 3 5 18 2 15.79 15.00 14.71 11.39 1.67 a 4 6 39 16 7 6 2 11 49 12 11 11 2 I 14.29 18.18 37.50 10.74 22.58 31.58 10.00 32.35 31.01 10.00 14.94 15.94 2.08 25 to 28 yards. 21 to 24 yards. z B s S5 12 14 24 37 7 16 8 a 8 6 2 10 11 53 50 23 25 6 4 6 42.86 42.43 23.08 24. 83 22.58 10. 19 14.81 18.18 10.63 50.00 32.35 33.55 41.67 .33.33 36.23 6.25 7.14 18.75 z a 3 'A 4 8 22 42 10 44 25 26 18 19 10 3 2 4 6 29 33 23 24 32 20 13 11 a 8 16 to 20 yards. z a 3 A 14.29 24-24 21.15 28.19 32.20 28.02 46.30 59.09 54.55 79.17 35.71 7.89 10. 20. 17. 18. 27. 33. 34. 33. 35. 40. 47. 53 00 65 35 50 33 78 34 71 62 83 3 3 8 44 7 80 16 18 6 4 12 19 1 6 23 11 9 43 27 10 7 8 A^ Less than 16 yards. z 10.71 9.09 7.09 29.53 22.58 50.96 29.03 40.91 18.18 16.67 42.86 50.00 5.26 2.94 3.80 19.16 15.95 13.05 44.79 48.22 31.25 30.43 1 10 17 5 3 1 6 16 13 5 3 5 a 8 3.57 0.96 6.71 10.83 9.26 9.09 4.16 21.43 42.11 1.45 13.54 8.93 9.38 21.74 .1 3 o 28 33 104 149 31 157 54 44 33 24 28 38 19 20 34 158 120 69 69 96 56 32 23 The average speed of the looms engaged in weaving plain worsted fabrics ranged from 100 to 116 picks per minute, 414 of the 723 looms making from 100 to 105 picks per mmute. The number of picks per incn ranged from 48 to 80, the principal fabrics being those having 52, 56, 60, and 62 picks per inch. Of the 104 looms on which 52-pick plain worsteds were produced, there were none that produced more than 36 yards in one day^ but there were 10 with a daily production of 33 to 36 yards; 39 with a production of 29 to 32 yards; and 24 with a production of 25 to 28 yards. Altogether, there were 73 looms out of a total of 104 looms, or 70.2 per cent on which a production of 25 or more yards was made in a day of 10 hours. Only 35.6 per cent of the looms on plain worsteds having 56 picks per inch (53 looms out of a total of 149 looms) attained a production of 25 or more yards per day. This proportion is only a little more than one-half of the production shown above for plain worsteds having 52 picks per inch. Tlie marked difference in production is accounted for not only in the smaller number of picks but also in the speed of the BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 1065 looms, the 52-pick plain worsteds being woven on looms running at 116 picks per minute and the 56-pick fabrics being woven on looms making only 103 picks per minute. The above table shows also that in weaving plain worsteds having 74 or more picks to the inch, on looms making 107 picks per minute no weaver produced more than 24 vards per day of 10 hours. Of course such a production is absolutely impossible on looms running 107 picks per minute, since the theoretical production on one loom running 107 picks per minute and weaving a faoric having 74 picks per inch is 24.1 yards. (74 picks per inch X 36 = 2,664 picks per j^ard. Loom making 107 picks per minute will in one hour make 6,420 picks, and in 10 hours 64,200 picks. 64,200-^2,664 = 24. 10 yards.) The theoretical production is, in fact, never obtained, for looms must be stopped at least a few times a day to tie-up broken ends or exchange empty for full bobbins in shuttles. The same general differences noted above for fancy serge and for plain serge and plain worsted are true also of the production of fancy worsted. manufacturers' comments on EFFICIENCY OF WEAVERS. The following letter was sent to manufacturers, after the data on the efficiency of weavers obtained by the agents of the board at the mills had been examined: Dear Sir: You have in your mill a number of weavers of varying degrees of effi- ciency on the same class of goods (exclusive of learners). This is shown bj^ the wide range of earnings on the pay rolls and the yards produced by each weaver in a given time. We find that some weavers secure the maximum of possible production from the looms they operate, while others do not do so. From your experience and observation, and that of the overseer of your weaving department, will you kindly let me know to what extent are the following factors responsible for the failure of so many weavers to obtain maximum production? 1. The loom. 2. The warp and filling used. 3. The weaver himself. Even under adverse atmospheric conditions and faults in warp and filling the differ- ences in efficiency continue. What is wrong in the mental or physical make-up, or application of the inefficient weavers, and on the other hand wnat are the qualifica- tions of good weavers? A prompt reply will greatly oblige. Very truly, yours, Henry C. Emery, Chairman. The following are extracts from letters of manufacturers received in reply to the foregoing: Establishment No. 1. — The loom is seldom out of order and is generalljr fixed within a verv short time, an hour or two at the most. The warp and filling having been made in large lots in our worsted mill will run exactly as well in one loom as in another. The weaver varies. Some weavers have that peculiar knack of watching their warp and putting their bobbins in the shuttles carefully, and always alert to notice any- thing that is going wrong, and are onto the many tricks of the trade that make their work go easily. Others are careless, can not do any of the many little things that make their work run easily, and hence have to do a great deal more stopping than a good weaver. At one time we had a young woman who did more and better work than any of the other men and women weavers in the mill. Quite often we do not have the proper loom to weave with the greatest efficiency certain cloths, but it would not pay us to change, as possibly the next orders might require that very loom to weave efficiently on. Establishment No. 2. — We are not at all surprised at the result of the efficiency test made by your representatives in our weave room. We have been aware of the fact for some time that some of our weavers were not getting the most effective work from their looms or making the pay which is jwssible to be made. JL 1066 REPOBT OF TARIFF BOABD OM SCHEDULE K. J[i^ty per cent of our looma are of the Utmt type Knowles looms, and liie oiht^ mine m last as the new type. The warp and filling used is as good, if not better thin the average carded woolen mill uses. In case waSp or fimngdoe^mnl^ a^iuow ance is made to compensate the weav^ ^ ' allow- Kow as to the weavers, the whole fcult lies witii the individual Our nrice list f 12p week." **«^^*^^^ *^* ^« ^^'^ ^«^ver on our kind of'^s'^Kd e^lJ? The writer has a weekly list of wages made by weavere on niecework nn^^A in fK« Most of our weavers are either pe^ns too oW to learn any new trade and have Int aU ambition and are perfectly content to jog along from dkv to ^wiS no^^,,^ wony for the future, or floaters, who drift from one^UU to S^th^r whr^UI »et oS^ SSCtSr^^l"^""- '"* P«^ <«^y wiU see .hem on tir'^'^r ^"o^ Spinners are even more difficult to procure, and in brief labor cnnrliri/.!.- k«„« ,■.^^'"'•5'*."^ Ao. 5.-Owing to the construction of the Enrfish loom it is aim™* impossible to have them run all alike. There is more slippage andmore backl^h fh^ in the American loom, yet we prefer it tor our kind of wort. \Ve makeaT^7t^,w^ 01 stylos and patterns, with consequenUy moi« or less frequent ctC^ an^ whi W^ changes are being made the loom is standing. The l(«Si fixer kreSo^hTp in Im^ Oises due to a kck of interest or lack ofWrd for tie ri^hS of^e w^^erTnl Sl^wtni^^'L^if'Si^^^^''''^*^'^'^''*^ ^.?i JTH\®^°^® "^^^ ^^^ ^}^^^ ^^^ waiting for warp and fillW should in the lon^ J^l'^f^'^i^" "^^Y^"^ proportionately, except that the weav^who h^naUi^l an^^ ^.^Lf! work ciiuick fingers, and good eyesight is able to git ^T^f Koubl^ sooner and enables hua to produce more cloti fe ^ "ui, m ma wouoies (3) I^ck of ambition, careless, slovenly, slow. It is more difficult i« wmvI «„♦ fi,^ U^lliA'"'-^^'''^'' ^i^ vacancie« ai^ usuall^'filled with le^e^^'^heZfi^ mZ^Jf,^^ J^™^ *• '''"°*^ ""^ weaving plants, ft is practicable to iSst onTmaxi* mum production, owmg to the supply o! experienced weavers near aThand to^w ^go^weaver-thatjs,^^^^^ M^^t*^^''^' "^'^^ ""'"^^^ ^^"^^'■^' ^"^ eyesight, clean and methXal &nxio^ to earn and receivd a good wage, and wUling to pay the price bv bein? on^L ?nh n^? ^l^ZP 1.^^ ^^ ^^^^ i« ^ to lack Wie of SquaKionB effi^tn/l'Jr'''/''-.^--^^^^ ^ ^'^ ouTeS)^) a^not nearlyaa ^cient and m steady as they were some years apo, and we do not geta^ good work m ^S;^ -^ -^^-"^ breakinl^^S^: Ustabtwhtnent No. 5.— The loom may with some wesiv«r« Iw. r<<.n/v„«.-T,i„ i.v t. the ^me make and speed. For iS^, sh^d A^T^^^Tn « o w"f.» placed on another loom that they are not accustom^S^ it tXs ^Si^e f^them ™ Jf ""^ .*v^"' "™^ ?**• Ag^i". '"'itJ' others it is not ». It d^peX upon Z ^^^-i^ri*^ I^I*™ themselva This applies more to tho feuLleJZnt^lZ^ At thfitlmrfhl S2^ " spinning. This applies also to the filling. cWh f^!„ JSL^^^ ^'^ '^'^^ weavers using yam of the same batch wove much less Ss^!*^^""^^^ construction-thus proW that the fault ^J^iSoifw^vIS • J^S ^°"^^ say that the weaver is reepOTisible in 9 out of 10 inatanc«. oith», f~.™ indifference or not appljing themselves'^ they mighTand Ih^mT's^^^Tr j:.swQiisnm€nt j\o. ff.— (1) The loom.— It is always our nlan to weave eaoh faKmV /« ^e loom best adapted to its production. Our prXct howevS l^o divS^fi^ fl ? frequently we are under the necessity of weavii^ Su^Trj^^^^ REPORT OP TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1067 priate for the purpose. As an example of this: The week's record of our weaving product carried away by your agent shows a number of 62-inch looms runnin*' at 122 picks per mmute on cloths 37 to 38 inches wide in the reed, which fabrics could be produced more economically and efficiently on looms 24 inches narrower and running 30 picks per mmute higher speed. Weavers producing narrow goods on slow-speeded wide looms will show a less product if their yardage is compared with that of other weavers fabncatmg the same cloth on high-speeded narrow looms. If, however the standard of a w^ver's efficiencv is based solely on speed of loom, the attendant of a given number of slow-runnmg looms on a stated cloth should show greater efficiency than the operator of the same number of fast-running looms on the same fabric for the reason that on the latter type of looms breakage of yams and stoppage of machines are more frequent. The number of looms allotted to a weaver is an important factor in the matter of efficiency— if the assignment is too large, the efficiency will be correspondingly low At this mill, as far as is practicable, the various kinds of cloth to be woven are equally apportioned among all the weavers, and it is no uncommon practice for weavers to concentrate their energies upon certain looma which are running on cloths that they like to weave and to neglect to an appreciable extent one or two other looms which are assigned to fabncs which they regard as more difficult or less remunerative to weave Such weavers show high efficiency on the looms they favor and the opposite on the looms n^lected. *^*^ (2) T/^ warp and JllUng used.— The weaving qualities of the different warp yarns vary widely. In a general way twofold cotton warps weave well, but with single cotton warp there is more breakage. Twofold worsted warps ordinarily make good weaving yarns, but fine smgle worsted warps often require much patience and skill to successfully pass them through the loom. Single warps made of one-fourth blood or lower stock present special difficulties to the weaver by reason of the long, shaggy beard projecting from the core of the thread and causing so much entanglement and breakage m passing through the lease rods and harnesses. To weave well a worsted warp, particularly if the yam is single, must be carefully warped and properly sized, and any appreciable variation in sizing, either on the hard or soft side, affects the weaving qualities unfavorably. In the weaving of ladies' dress goods difficulties are encountered peculiar to this department of textile manufacture. Some fabrics are of so sheer a character as to ren- der their production possible only by the use of fine single yams spun to their utmost limit of fineness. Such threads are eo deUcate and tender that only by the utmost skill and care can they be successfully manipulated on the loom The diatmguishmg characteristics of many popular cloths can be attained only at the sacrifice of every good weaving condition and from the standpoint of clotii con- struction are abnormities. A nice prunella will have 150 warp threads to the inch and about 60 filling threads, and it is a serious problem to the weaver how to coax such a dense mass of threads over the lease rods and through the eyes of the harness without breaJbng The antipodes of this is a fine grade Henrietta T^ith 56 fine warp ^reads and 160 filling tiireads to the inch. The problem here is to make the few threads of warp witJistand the severe beating of the lay, whose action is to obscure •?wfP.^i^ *^T ^® ?^^? ^^^ ^e ^^«- ^ ^^eta that will find acceptance with the trade can be produced only by a merciless depression of the harnesses, which Bubjecte the fine warp threads to a most unreasonable strain. These are examples of the trying condition imposed upon tiie dress-goods weaver and explain in some degree his failure to secure what the casual observer might expect (3) The tveaverhirmelf. —Vnder normal trade conditions there is a scarcity of good weavers, and help have to be taken on who are ignorant of our requirements and thus more or less mcompetent. Recognition of tiiis fact has stimulated tiie adoption of automatic devices on looms for tiie prevention of bad work. Many persons follow- mg tiie weaver s craft have missed tiieir calling; nature intended them for oOier occupations; tiie deft hand and alert eye, so essential to successful weaving, are plainly lackmg. Thev mean well but their work gets ahead of tiiem, and they S^nd their days m futile efforts to catch up; before one fault is corrected another appears and It IS from such operatives tiiat most of the imperfect cloth comes Weavers m dress-goods mills, particularly where tiicre are automktic looms, run more looms tiian m men's wear mills, and when tiie latter are busy tiiey draw heavily upon dress-goods orgamzations for tiieir supply of weavers. In turn the dress-goods mills draw on tiie cotton mills for recruits, and it takes several montiis for a (Stton weaver to become a good worsted weaver. Meanwhile efficiency is not tiie higheet Ihe class of weavers is numerous tiiat prefers easy, comfortable work with medium wages rather than work of higher grade and better pay. This lack of exertion and absence of ambition on their part tends to keep down efficitjucy 1068 BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOBT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. 1069 Th© weavers do not all poaseete equal skill or physical power. In our employ are many weavers 45 years and older, who are still producing good cloth, but whose product IS being impaired by advancing years. Some of our most competent weavers are women 20 to 30 years of age, who right in the stage of their greatest efficiency relinquish their occupation and get married. In Elu^^pe weavers are more contented with their vocation and plan to remain in it all their hves. In numberless instances entire families for generations i>ast have all been weavers, and such operatives acquire a measure of dexterity and skill which is not so fully met with in American mills. Neither is it the rule for young women to give up their mill occupation upon marriage: mmt of them continue their mill employment for several years after. Our best weavers to-day are French Canadians, both sexes, 18 to 40 years of age. They are a thrifty class and seek to earn all the money they can. We have fewer Belgians than formerly; these are good and skillful workers, but object to running too many looms. Naturally they have been working their way into men's wear mills. Germans are good weavers, but of these we have now scarcely any. Not many Americans are to be found weaving in our mills: but of Scotch, Irish, and English we have a strong representation as respects number. Among our good weavers are a few Portuguese, mostly women; we have also taken on a number of Polish women who have recently learned to weave and who doubtless will attain a fair degree of competency when they have become experienced. Establishment No. 7.— The question of degree of efficiency in our weavers has been a matter that has given us a great deal of annoyance and study. If we could supply our mill with weavers equal to the best which we have it would make a very decided difference in the cost of our production. This, however, is impossible. The best weavers we have, learned to weave in oiu- mill and have been with us in some coses nearly 25 years. I have in mind three of the women weavers who have been work- ing for us steadily for 22, 23, and 24 years, respectively. They are among our most efficient producers. In regard to the causes of the difference under the headings designated we should put It as follows: (1) Theloom.— Ten of oiur looms are equippeil with direct-connected motor drives. 'Oie roeed under this method of driving is absolutely steatly and uniform, and it is therefore, possible to run the loom at a slightly higher speed than on the belt-driven looms. The absolutely steady speed abo results in the work coming somewhat bet- ter. These looms are run at 5 to 7 per ceht higher speed than our belt-driven looms. The 20 remainincf looms are belt driven and due to the causes outlined above give a elightly less production. . (2) Warp and filling used.—Voot warp and filling of course result in a great reduction in efiiciency of the loom, but this has a very gmall bearing in our case. Our work being all on high-grade goods, we do not have the troubles that exist where low-grade ehoddymixtureg are used. (3) Weaver himself.— Thh m a large factor of difference in the efficiency of the differ- ent weavers. The oualities that make up a first-class weaver are general intolligence coupled with a cool head and good eyesight, and the power of concentration and appli- cation. The weaver who is interested in his work, is nimble fingered, and uses hia brain to save his hands, will far outstrip the sluggish, indifferent, clumsy weaver. \\e have great difficulty m obtaining efficient weavers here. The weavers who have learned the trade in our own mill, and who have been with us for a greater or less num- ber of years are far superior to the weavers we obtain from out of town. We even find that weavers coming from families, where their father or mother were mill hands before them, take to the work more readily and become more efficient help than those coming from families not familiar with the textile business. Estahlisknmht No. *.— First. It is not because of tlie loom, as we must necessarily keep our loom equipment up to a high state of efficiency as f ar aa mechanical workini goes. ^ Second. It is very, very seldom that the cause is in the warp or filling used, although ^» /^'*:ry exceptional cases there will l>e, in spite of the utmost precaution, one lot of Boft filling or a lot of soft warp yam because the same grade of wool is not always of the same strength. Third. It is almost always the weaver himself who is at fault, as for instance, some weavers will stand at the loom and keep it in operation from the minute the speed utarts until it stops, while another weaver will stop his loom for 3 or 5 or 10 minutea to go to another part of the room and talk to some friend, or who will stop his loom 10 or 15 minutes before quitting time to clean up. Again, two weavers may run their looms every minute the speed operates it and one will produce more yardage in the same length of time than the other, due to the higher efficiency of the first man, who thinks quicker, act^ quicker, and ReneiaUy produce© the best cloth. *^ Another instance, where a weaver would complain to his boss that a warp on his loom would not run right, the filling was not right and he could not produce gcxxi cloth from it, yet another man placed on the same loom with the same warp and filling, will produce perfectly merchantable cloth and produce it faster than the man who com- plained of it. Of course, there always h and always will be in a fancy mill some variation in weav- ers' wages, due not to the weaver himself altogether but to the fact that it is impos- sible to balance the fancy mill so as to keep every loom filled up with warp or, even if the warp is in, to have' filling ready for everv loom at all times, and occasionally a weaver has to wait a half hour or an hour or a half day for a lot of filling to come through for his warp. Our fabrics are made entirely of new original clips of wool with the staple in, one fabric being made of a high tliree-eighths blood quality and the other fabric of fine wool, no shoddy or other adulteration being used, the goods not even carrying their own waste. Consequently, we produce a very strong well-made yarn and the cloth weaves very much better and faster than in a mill where the yarns carry a percentage of waste or shoddy. Therefore, we consider the following are the qualincations neces- sary for the production of good cloth: First, the mechanical condition of all parts of the loom. Second, the stock used, and. Third, the weaver hiniseH; but granting these three conditions as being theoretically perfect, on an average, looms will not produce beyond 75 per cent of their efficiency, although this depends very largely upon the weaver himself. The qualifications we consider necessary to make a good weaver are, first, he must understand weaving; second, he must be ambitious to produce perfect cloth and the maximum yardage, and to produce perfect cloth, he must l^e c[uick of eye and nimble with his fingers, so that he can detect quickly a broken thread m the warp or a raispick, 60 that he can stop his machine quickly, and must have the judgment which tells him whether, when an imperfection occurs in the cloth and he has woven a little beyond this imperfection, it is better to pull out the filling back to the imperfection or to mark it and so on with his weaving. While the records you took in our mill were at a time when we were slack in work and consequently not really representative of the average conditions, we find that when we are crowded with work and therefore going in the best possible manner, that some weavers will make $15 to $17 a week, week m and week out, while perhaps on identically the same kind of work, others will make only $11 to $13, and eo far as we have been able to find out, the difference is caused entirely by; the weaver him- self; one v/ill waste absolutely not a minute, keeping his loom running every minute he can, while the other will waste his time away and will not be as active or as quick in hia work. There is still another factor which enters somewhat into this question and that is the favoritism shown by the overseer: While we endeavor to have an overseer treat each and every weaver alike, it is human nature that each overseer will have a few favorites in the mill and a few whom he dislikes, and if one pattern is a little harder to weave than another or he should get a bad lot of filling through, he will invariably give the harder pattern or the bad lot of filling to a weaver whom he dislikes. However, we consider this is almost a negligible reason to be used in the cause of the difference of the earning power of the weavers. In conclusion, we find the same difference in efficiency of spinners, even on the same class of work and largely for the same reasons, and so far as our knowledge goes we think there is the same difference of efficiency in any other line of industry or even in clerical help in offices. Establishment No. 9. — ^All our looms are new, of the best and latest patterns obtain- able in each country, and are set up so carefully as to insure perfect operation. You can easily see that it is in our own interest to do everything in our power to attain a maximum of production. Failure in this respect, so far as our mill is con- cerned, lies entirely with the weaver himself. With regard to the warn and filling used, we can say that this is spun in our own spinning mills and is the bestpossible yam that could be used. There is, therefore, no trouble in this respect. This is clearly shown by the fact that in many cases weavers who attain the maximum of efficiency use yam from the same spinning lot as those who are least efficient. In our mill only about 25 per cent of the weavers can be considered good. As to the qualities of good weavers, it is hard to describe them. The essential qualities are alertness and dexterity, and as the work is not heavy, requiring no great physical strength, women are often as good weavers as men, and sometimes better. Above aU things, however, a weaver must have years of training in weaving all the 1070 EEPOBT OF TAEIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. f; different kmda of fabnc8 before he or she can really be called a good weaver. Under the hitherto prevalent violent fluctuaUous in the industry 8uc:h fife-long training haa only been possible in very exceptional caeea and in such places where local conditions have been more like those in Europe. Thia has again l>een brought to our special notice during the past summer. \^len the mill was running part time, many of our best and most energetic and ambitious workers, whom we had with great trouble educated for our special kind of work and who were dissatisfied at not making full wages, sought other industries. Now, when we are running full time again we find we have only the poorer help and are ahnost in as bad a position as when we first started. It is unposeible to repeat too often the great advantage possessed by the older European centers of the woolen and worsted industry. Tht operath^ in those towns, even if they earn less than they might do elsewhere, will not break up their associations and move away as they do here. They are attached to their work and to their homes. Here the operatives have scarcely time to become domiciled before business IS subjected to a violent setback and they are forced to seek work in other towns. The disadvantages of aU this for mill owners are twofold. First, we thereby In'toTl i^^P-®' ^^ secondly, upon the resumption of activity we have to break in new people again. ^ j **«. Esiablishment No. 10.— We are glad to receive your letter because it shows that ?w fZ ^^«^^"g*\iy going into this thing in a businesslike way; and I desire to state tnat me reasons that we do not get an average production from all of our looms ia not on account of the loom, not on account of the warp or filUng, but on account of the weaver, her or himself. ^ ^' ^^-uuut oi uie We have such a large fluctuation of weavers who are constantly coming and going that we are practically teaching weavers all the time, and up to the end^f last week from the first of this year our records show that 784 weavers came and were taught staved less than two months, and disappeared. Then, of course, this same formula had to be gone over again. *"*ux» Weaving is much more difficult than the average person who comes from the farms and rural districts, not only in this country but from foreign countries, anticioates- and the average that makes good in 1 in 12. ^ ' As you will see by the names of all our employees they are very laigely made ud of foreigners, and to this we attribute the constant coming and going, as they come to ttiis country from stories they have been told that money is easy to make in America Ihere also are a ^eat many positions open for them in which as much money can be eanied without the same amount of brains or skill being necessary Establuhment No. 11.— In general terms it should be noteti that there is intrinsi- eaUy a difference inweaving possibiHties between essentially different fabrics and esseutiallv different kinds of looms. That is, it would be quite improper to judcre a weaver s efficiency m comparing a fabric made of a single worsted y^n with one made of a single cotton varn, or with any two-ply, whether cotton or worsted So far as materials go in broad terms, it might be said that a two-ply cotton warp is probably the bestof weaving materials. Next to this would come the two-ply woisted warp, or, perhaps, even the single cotton warp, under certain circumstances. But a single worsted warp is m a class by itself. Of course, there is a possibility of some vanatipn between ^e warp or the fillings in goods of identicaUy the same makes, but this difference in a well-run room should not be very great. Moreover, where tiie atmospheric conditions are kept fairly uniform there should not be great variations uUt/ 10 UllS. As regards the loom there is, of course, a very material dijfference in possible pro- duction from an automaticaUy operating loom and one which is not automatic, and between a fancy head, either Jacquard or Dobby, and a plain loom. This difference would show up in any relationship which may be attempted between the classes of labrics 8o_ woven, and would require very careful study in each individual case to give a proper interpretation to the differences which might be found These tests which have been exhibited having been made on warps which are many of tHem now out of the looms, we can not, of course, go back and study the question of any variations for the same class of material aa such, but so far as we are aware there was no such great variation between nominally the same material as used by different weavers, and yet there is m some instances at least a very marked difference between the results obtamed on the same looms, on the same fabrics, by different weavers. Unquestionably, some of this is due to the intrinsically different capacities of weavers. but m other cases tlM> difference in efficiency should be regarded only as temporary and for this reason: That during the last summer, when we had so little workior our weave rooms to dc, m order to retain our oldest weavers we shut down our No 1 weave room entu-eiy and transferred the weavers into our No. 2 weave room, where they would be running m many instances au entirely different class of looms to what they had been BEPOET OF TARIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K* 1071 nsed to. This indeed is a large factor in the efficiency of the American weavers, in that they are liable to pass from one mifl to another and obtain work which is entirely different from that they have been accustomed to previously. This indeed is a cause of lack of efficiency with all classes of skilled help in the textile trade, particularly in a city like , where there is a great variety of such textile products pro- duced and much changmg about of help. This particular phenomenon is directly illustrated by the production of one quality whose condition we have carefully looked up. The quality in question is a Panama mixture — warp and filling of 2/40 worsted — a fabric which with a weaver who fully understands the work weaves well, but which requires expert care which can only be obtained by practice. We have taken the looms which were on this quality and arranged them in four groups, the grouping being based upon the hours running and the product per hour. Now, it should be noted that on group 1 the weavers were all old experienced weavers either on this indentical type of loom or one somewhat similar. On group No. 2 the weavers were inexperienced on these particular looms but had had some experience on eomewhat similar classes of work. Hence results better than in groups 3 or 4, where there had been no such similarity of experience. All of the weavers in groups 2, 3, and 4, with one or two exceptions only, had been transferred from our No. 1 weave room or were either new weavers or spare weavers. The exceptions referred to we have recognized as being naturally less efficient weavers than the average. "^ W^e have looked over the earnings of each of these groups since the time that this was taken, and with the few executions above noted we think there are indications of considerable improvement, but this is hard to determine precisely because the weaver is not paid for a cut imtil he gets it off the loom, and this makes the earnings from one week to another irregular. .«•*»• • w,. ^.^-.^-^ .— ^...-. ^ W'e do not attempt to judge of the capacity of a weaver for a given work, unless she is manifestly ill adapted, "until she has had an opportunity to demonstrate what she can really ao. In our mill there is probably a greater variety of fabrics and classy of looms than would be generally found even in this country, and we suspect would be hardly comparable in this respect to foreign weave rooms. Speaking broadly again, the elliciency of the weaver depends not only on personal adaptation but on a degree of experience on the particular work in hand. We might further state that except for very heavy work it has been our experience that a woman will get a better product than a man, but when it comes to very heavy work, such as men's wear mills would be likely to have, we can well understand that they would prefer men weavers- It is doubtful if a woman could stand the strain for such heavy work. It then becomes a question of physical endurance rather than skill of fingers. Product vnemorandum on four groups of looms on same fabric. Group 1: 6 Looms Group 2: 5 Looms Groups: SLooms Group 4: 6 Tiooms Average hours run. 54.7 53.7 52.9 20.9 Averaso yards per lioor. 3.00 2.62 1.85 1.83 Establiskmeiit No. 12. — This variation ia not due to years of experience which some hands may have in comparison with others, but is due largely to the indivdduals themselves. We do not tnink that there are many mills equipped with machinery differing less than what our own does, as practically all our looms are alike — that is to say, where the same kind of work is in operation. To make this perfectly clear tq you, will say that our report bears out the fact that we have a number of worsted looms, all of which are^ alike, and which are employed for worsted work only. On the other hand a certain class of woolen work is run on similar looms, while in a large measure our various styles of woolen work are made on practically the same looms and under the same conditions. Would also advise that the warp and filling used for the same kinds of work are the same for all weavers. 1072 EEPOBT OP TAMFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. EEPOBT OF TABIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. 1073 fP With this explanation you will pec that the differoncos are practically due to the individual weavers themselves, and from personal observations dating back 25 or 30 years we have never found that it differed materially, and that on the same kinds or claasea of work and under exactly the same conditions, there are variations amounting to probably 25 |>er cent in ilie productive capacity of weavers. As to what we consider the necessary quililications of a good weaver we will say that we think they are about the same as the necessary qualifications in any other line or branch of work, and that the varying d^ees of efficiency vary in about the flame proportion to the varying degrees of intelligence that you find in the human family. A good weaver generally has good common sense to start with, and an alert disposi- tion which keeps them ever on the watch, enabling them to see a defect befora a serious loss of time results. Their physical condition is another important factor, as a short or stout person does not usually make as expert a weaver as a more normal build would be. Good eyesight is another very important matter. A neat and tidy disposition is also another foctor, eo that you wiU see by the above that there are many conditions upon which depend the efficiency of weavers. 4 Establishment No. i^.— (i) Our looms are of two kinds, and the only difference in these that would affect production is' that the picks per minute on the two kinds are elightly different, as shown on the test tickets supplied by your representatives. i (2) Our waip and filling are of the best woolen yam, and we can not say that these would have any appreciable effect in increasing or diminishing the output. i\ (3) It is, in our opinion, in the weaver himself wherein Ues his efhciency. The men weavera are as a rule more efficient than the women. Some weavers pay more close attention to their work than others; some again are quicker at changing the shuttles when the filling runs out. It lies with the man or woman whether he or she can get the maximum production from the loom; to do this it is obvious that there must be as few and as short stoppages of the loom as possible. i Establishment No. 14. — Of course we would expect more or less variation in the production of different weavers. This is accounted for, partially, in the loom, which IS, however, a Bmall percentage. The particular fabric tliat this weaver might ha\'e, for a short period, would also have effect; although, covering a period of six months, this would be eliminated. g We consider the largest part of this difference is due to the weaver himself, as there Me certain people who have a natural ability for this kind of work, and others, while they may work as hard, do not seem able to get the same results. In the past 5 or 10 years it has been rather difi&cult to get many first-class weavers. We nave been obliged to take many weavers who were not proficient, nor ever would be. Establishment No. 15.— We do not know that the difference in the efliciency of weavers is any greater than the difference between individuals in any occupation. It is, of course, lajgely a guess, but in our weave room we would estimate that of the factors you mention perhaps 5 per cent of the difference in efficiency is due to dif- ferences in the looms, 25 per cent to difference in yams, and fully 75 per cent to the weaver himself. We have selected six examples from the loom cards, illustrating the difference in weavers on the same work. Looms 42 and 46 are identical in pattern and i^e, the weavera both female, the hours practically the same, and the goods identical. One weaver wove 108 yards in 34J hours, and the other 90| yards in 34 hours. Looms 49 and 50 are adjacent and identical, the weavera working in the same alley. The card of loom 49 gives the weight of the goods as 16.5, but this is a mistake, as it should be 14.5, the same as loom 50. These cards are therefore absolutely identical so far as conditions are concerned, yet weaver 49 wove 121 yards in the same time as No, 50 was working on 109 y^ards. Looms 14 and 15 are also identical and the goods the same range, though different styles. Different colored yams are different in strength, so, in these cases there might possibly be a difference in quality to account for part of the difference in in production (109| yards in 34 houre against 77^ yards in 34 J hours). As a matter of fact, however, there can have been but little difference between the two styles, and the ^o^ater part of the 25 per cent difference in efficiency la undoubtedly due to the differences in the weavera. Now, we are well acquainted with the six weavera mentioned above and the results are precisely what we would expect, and would be very similar in the course of a year's work. The differences were not due to accidental or unusual causes, but to differ- ences in the temperament of the weavera. As to what is wrong with the inefficient weavera, it is hard to say definitely. It is not necessarily due to laziness nor anything discreditable to the weaver. For instance, one of the inefficient weavers mentioned above ia a woman of excellent character, conscientious to a marked degree, of German parents, ambitious, and hard working. These very good qualities seem to make her a comparatively poor weaver. She is too careful. The one who is compared with her is no more honest or faithful, but will turn off more and better work. The good weaver is one who, in the phrase of the weave room "keeps his belt on the tight pulley"; in other words, keeps his loom running. He will, when possible, change shuttles without stopping the loom. Some weavera are not able to learn to do this successfully. If he finds it necessary to stop the loom to put in a broken thread, he will do only what is absolutely necessary, then start his loom, and complete the work while it is running. The other weaver will complete the work before starting the loom, making a few seconds' difference. It is not a question of quick motions. One of the best weavera we have is a man of very slow, almost sluggish, motions. One of the poorest we ever had was a nervous, quick-motioned man. The first made every move count; the second made three unnecessary moves to one that was useful. We believe the same types will be foimd anywhere in any line of work. In our opinion, what will make a good weaver will make a good workman in almost any line, especially mechanical. The good weaver has a ** mechanical sense," which is lacking in a poor one. No doubt this is one reason why men are usually more effi- cient in weaving than women, who usually lack the ''instinct for machinery," if it may be so called. A proof of this opinion is found in the fact that weavera as a class are less efficient now than they were 10 years ago. This is certainly true in our plant and, we believe, in the industry generally. The reason for this is that the best weavera go into some other line of industry where the pay is better. Many of our ** stars" of past years went into the wire-fence industry. Many more, during the past three or four years, have gone into the automobile industry, of which the center for the country is only 50 miles from us. Some of our weavera who have gone into this business have made good and are now drawing several times as much as they could ever have hoped for in wea\ing. We trust we have answered your questions satisfactorily. It is hard to do so briefly, and perhaps the best way to put it would be to say that a weaver needs the usual good qualities, ambition, energy, etc., and, in addition, a mechanical turn of mind, and the ability to make every move count. The new "scientific management" would teach the latter point to all weavera; but we are confident that no amount of teaching would make one of our poor weavera equal to one of the best, though it would doubtless improve him. It is partly temperament. It is invariably true that the weavera who turn off the most work in a given time also turn off the best work. The extremely slow and careful weavera are the ones who turn out the poor goods. Of couree, in this statement we are referring only to the honest workman, not to those who have no pride in their work and run it out as fast as they can, regardless of results. EstahlisKment No. 16. — My experience has been that what applies to almost any class of workmen running machinery applies to weavera — that to be a firet-class weaver and get the maximum production from his loom he must firat have interest in his work and ambition to get the best possible out of his loom. And, again, experi- ence counts very much. As to the failure of so many weavera to obtain the maximum production, 95 per cent is owing to the weaver; 2 per cent is owing to the loom con- ditions; 3 per cent is owing to the warp and filling. Establishment No. 17. — Relative to the varjong degrees of efficiency of weavera on the same class of goods, would say the factor responsible for this variation is chiefly the individual not being able to adapt himself to the varying grades of work. For instance, a weaver may be a skilled operative on a fine class of work, yet when put upon a coarse fabric is unable to keep the loom running. The best weavera are those of a nervous temperament, as they are quick of action in mind and in body, whereas a peraon of phlegmatic temperament is too slow in thought and in action, therefore can not produce the same amoimt of work in a given time. We have a concrete example of this here at our mill in the case of two sistere, one a girl of 21 yeara of age and the other who is 24 yeara. Both are good weavera, yet the firat will produce the maximum efficiency while the other is only an average weaver. Of great importance in this consideration is the fact that a large part of our weavera are drawn from the agricultural districts of Europe. They had attained their majority before having taken up the work as weavera, which trade they acquired in this country. These people do not make as good weavera as a boy or ^rl who has started to work on leaving school, say at the age of 14 yeara, and working m the mill for a year or two in some occupation like spooling, where they learn to be quick of action. The variation in strength of warp and filling yarns m the same grade of cloth does not materially affect the efficiency, it being very slight. Likewise, the factor of loom 1074 BXPOfiT OF TARIFF BOABB OM SCHEDtJI.E K. EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1075 Iweakage ie also^ of negligible quantity, aa looms ranning on the same grade of goods will run approjdniately the same lea<^tli of time before breakage occurs. Establishment No. IS. — We note your remarks about the number of weaveiB in our mill of var> ing degreea of efficiency on the same claas of goods. We presume you mean by the eante claas of gooda, goods with the same styio number, m we do not think it would b© iair to make this compariBon on the numl>er of picks per inch, as a great many styles having the same number of picks per inch have a different weave and »ko a different make-up in the texture, which would have more or less influence on &e number of yaids turned off of each loom. We note from the record cards which your representative had at our mill that there is more or iem diffeienoe in the number of yams turned off in a given time on exactly the same style of goods. By style we mean our atyle number. We do not think that this is due to any ^ult of the loom, as our looms are kept in the ver>' best possible condi- tion; nor do we think it is due to the warp and filling used, as we buy only the very best j^ara and examine same very carefully before using it. We think'the greater pro- portion of thifl ia by far due to the weaver himself. Ahnoet anyone of average intelli- gence can become a good weaver and we think the qualifications necesBary are a sober, industrious man, and one who will give close application to his work. EstabUAmml No. l$.—AsmveTmg your inquiry as to what extent the following factos are responsible lor the faOure of so manv weavens to obtain maximum production (1) the loom, (2) the -warp and filling uaed, <3) the weaver himself, we beg to inform you, that the looms can not be held responsible for this at all. Sometimes the warp and the illiilg are not as good as they should be at the aveni«», but this factor will never amount to more than 5 |)er cent of the looms which do not deliver enou^ goods. The main drawback, which we feel very much, is the weaver himself. As you know, it is impossible for us to find experienced weavers, and therefore we are obliged to teach moat of our weavers ourselves, which causes us a great d38< ; style . weaver -; No. -; No. Imperfections. Extent. Rate. Smashes Light places.. Heavy places. Reed marks.. Stains. Wrong filling Overshots Floats Kinks Holes Ends out Double thread.. Wrong draw Wrong col or Uneven warp... Cross reed Mispicks. Broken picks Double picks . . . . Uneven filling.. Filling drawn in. Amount. Yards pounds ounces total I have examined this piece and certify that all the above imperfections have been mended as far as is possible in a satisfactory manner. • , Inspector. Piece No. ; style . Burled by ; No. . Yards ; amount . I have examined the above work and entries and behevQ them to be correct. ■ — , Foreman, In most establishments a system of fining prevails. The follow- ing posted in a number of large mills, together with the concluding notice, shows that manufacturers hold weavers responsible lor bad work: FINES FOR IMPERFECTIONS. • 1. For floats, from 30 to 75 cents each, according to size. 2. For each bad piece caused by picking out, 37 cents. 3. For each yard of threads out, 15 cents per yard; no deduction for 2 inches or less. 4. For cloth woven with more than two picks out, $1.50; for cloth woven with 5 or more picks out nothing will be paid. 5. Face filling drawn in on the side, for 1 yard 30 cents, on back 8 cents. 6. Each mispick on face, 25 cents; for a double mispick, 50 cents. 7. Each flying lump, 15 cents. 8. Each yard of wrong draw, 15 cents. 9. Thread out on the back, 2 yards or more, 15 cents. 10. Mispicks on the back, 8 cents each. 11. Double mispicks on the back, 37 cents each. 12. Double threads, coarse threads, coarse filling, wrong filling, pattern changed, loom mispicks, harness skipping, reed marks, stop-motion marks, harness down, etc., according to damage. The atove list of fines will be strictly adhered to, the intention being to charge the weaver as near as possible to cost of repairing damages, which could by careful watch- ing be avoided. In other establishments a system of grading the weavers instead of fining prevails. The weavers are divided into five grades. Weavers in the premium grade are paid the regular piece price for yard and 5 per cent premium 32080°— H. Doc. 342, G2-2, vol 2 30 ) 1078 BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1079 for amounts earned in excess of specified sums. The piece piioe per yard in the other grades is graduated downward. ^ The following list of perfect and imperfect work regulates the grade m which each weaver is placed: Premium grade: No threads out over 4 inches; no broken picks; no hea\y or light places. Grade 1: Allowed 3 broken picks, no migpicks; allowed threads out under 4 inches: allowed threads out over 4 inches— 2 yards in a piece. Grade 2: Four broken picks, 1 mispick; threads out— 3 to 8 yards in a piece- wromr draw or crossed color— 3 to 8 yards in length; 2 avoidable heavy or light places Grade 3: Over 4 broken picks, 2 or more mispicks; thready out over 8 yards: wrone draw or crossed color— 8 yards or longer; 3 or more heavy or light places. Grade 4: Three or more mispicks; wrong draw through whole piece; 4 or more heavy or iiguL places. But the burling, sewmg, and finishing processes fail to make perfect a large quantity of woven goods, and those imperfect goods have to be sold as seconds and at prices below those obtained for the goods known as perfect. The agents of the board inquired into the eflfect of imperfections on the sale of goods. From 16 establishments it was ascertained that of 62,540,014 yards of cloth made, 1,362,496 yards, or 2.18 per cent, were seconds or imperfectly woven goods and had to be sold at prices below those of the regular goods. The seconds do not, however, represent all of the goods made which have to be sold below the regular prices. There are also remnants, shorts, patchwork, and waste. Remnants are cut from pieces having imperfections. In enumerating the losses on this class of goods and others, one estab- lishment reported that — In the manufacture of goods for the men's wear trade there are large quantities of goods returned on account of the failure to sell them on the part of our customers, tiie goods being returned under some subterfuge of alleged imperfections, imperfect dyeing, etc., which frequently have to be sold at a heavy loss, as they are not returned untd late in the season. By careful estimate on goods returaed for the paat three years we find that about 20 per cent of our production is returned in this way, upon which we estimate our loss as being 10 per cent, eaualing a net loss of 2 per cent on our entire production from this cause. There is also a loss on goods which are set aside as seconds, when they come through the finishing department, owing to imper- fect weaving, dyeing, etc., which have to be sold at reduced figure^ which, together with claims allowed for imperfections while goods are in the hands of consumers, equal approximately 2 per cent of the gross amount of producUon. In an establishment manufacturing dress goods the percentage of the seconds yardage was as follows: Worsted goods No. 1, 1.01 per cent. Worsted goods No. 2, 2.28 per cent. Wool goods No. 1, 2.50 per cent. Wool goods No. 2, 4.50 per cent. These are the percentages of the yardage of whole pieces made sec- onds and do not include allowances for imperfections or remnants cut from pieces for imperfections. From another establishment having a large output records of per- fect and imperfect yardage for six months ending in 1910 and for six months ending in 1911 were obtained. Omitting the number of yards included in each group the percent- age of perfect goods, seconds, shorts, remnants, and patchwork, together with the proportion sold at less than regular prices, are shown in the following: Six months ending 1910. 1 J Worsted goods. All-wool goods. Per cent of product. Prices obtained. Per cent of product. — 1 Prices obtained. Perfpcfs 95.43 2.02 1.07 1.22 .26 Sold at regular prices 10 per cent less than regular prices. do 26 cents per jmrd 89.52 5.44 2.78 L92 .34 Sold at regular nrices. geconds 10 per cent less than regular prices. I>0. Shorts Remnants 35.75 cents oer vard- Patchwork 20.52 cents per nound.... 34 cents per potmd. Sic mofUhs ending first half of 1911. Worsted goods. All-wool goods. Per cent of product. Prices obtained. Percent of product. Prices obtained. Perfects 94.88 2.02 1.13 1.58 .39 Sold at regular prices 91.22 3.09 2.73 1.94 .42 Sold at regular prices. Sold at 10 per cent less than regular prices. Seconds Shorts Sold at 10 per cent le^ than regulai- prices. do Ilemnants PatchworJc Sold at 21.75 cents per yard. . . Sold at 17.02 cents per pound. . Sold at 35.25 cents per yard. Sold at 18.02 cents per pound. In the foregoing the remnants and patchwork are contracted for eacli six months, the price obtained for remnants being per yard and that for patchwork being by the pound. GEHEEAl TABUE. Table SO presents the important facts mntnir^aA ir. ♦!,„ j x piled from tie loom records wJiiJh were keptin^o''J*i;^,,^^^ mils mvestigated and wliicli have been descriherMn Z„ ? T ''"'^ 1045 to 1065 in the chapter on "The Xlfn.^"* a.'" '■"^'''^ ** ?»««,! . In the first 12 and th^e iLt'colJi^^mZsJt^rjlir^ThrnW; cipa facts conceniing the fabrics wovenXrin^ thrDeWoTfn. J^"T f:jT) Z'f' "T ^'f' ^'^^'y- («" the "vdgU^of"t?feSothtr warp vainlf arnP^'"-"* """^P ""f-^' ^''/'^^ '^^ ^^^^ and quaKf Sle^s^') numb J^fl^f™?'* quahty of weft yam, (g) number of of ;m St ;VrnTev^:;f TfcMsyp^^^^^ iiLrpt:7/r^y3;«Tro ii^t*' ^^' *-« «^ -^a^^r^^ta 4^^^^^^^^^^^ data c. I feltofSSCd^rhJi^^LSfe^^ Tley constitute, therefore, direct an3 fimlXuuSnticTnfS Z X'E"fo?7l'^"f r? "^ y^-^^'"^ '"^ the United StatesTfj 'i„«k :„ j/ oflfifn rr^^ ^^^ --^- «^ picks ptr^a^irULroX^ an?sZeti,^rLlo/i'^ t1? *'°"°*-^^ ^:''™u "^^^^ '^ described as 2/30, ana sometimes aa 30/2. The meamng is the same in both cases, the 1080 ' KEPOKT OF TAKIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1081 smaller number representing the ply and tlie larger the count. Thus 2/30 yarn or 30/2 yarn means a two-ply worsted yarn No. (count) 30. Woolen yarn is generally heavier than worsted yarn and is there- fore, in most instances, single ply. Accordingly where no figure is shown in Table 80 for the ply or woolen yarn, single ply is always meant in the same manner as v/here the ply is mdicated by the figure 1. The size of woolen yarn is, in most of the mills investigated in the United States, numbered in runs, while worsted yarns are numbered in counts. As has been explained, 1-count yarn is yarn 1 pound of wliich contains 560 yards of single thread. In 1 pound of 20- count yarn there are 11, 200 yards of single thread (20 by 560). One- run yarn is yarn 1 pound of which contains 1,600 yards of single thread, four-run yarn containing 6,400 yards of single thread (4 by 1,600). In some instances the size of woolen yarn is expressed in terms of counts instead of runs, but this fact has been specially noted in every case. As a rule the quality of worsted yarn used is described as 1/2 blood, 3/8 blood, high 3/8 blood, 1/4 blood, or 60's, 80's, fine Ohio delaine, fine medium, etc. These are the trade and market terms in common use in tliis country. The quality of woolen yarn is not described in such detail, but is referred to merely as woolen (uncombed) yarn. There is a great variety of stock used in making up woolen yarn. In fact, in most cases a description of the elements would require too much space and would be of little or no value for the purposes of Table 80. The following list shows a few or the varieties of stock used in making woolen yarn in the mills covered by the investigation for the given period. Low-grade wool and shoddy. XXXXOhio. Fine Australian noils. Australian garnetted waste. Ninety per cent X Ohio, 10 per cent waste. Thirty per cent X Ohio, 70 per cent waste. Mediiun. Forty-five per cent Mexican; 35 per cent 3/8 blood; and 20 per cent noils. Twenty-five per cent Mexican, 75 per cent noils. The above are only a few of the many varieties of stock that are used in woolen yarn, but they add notlnng to the value of Table 80. The data shown in Table 80 represent a large range of woolen and worsted fabrics made in a large number of mills in various sections of the United States. Wherever the individual operations of a mill would be disclosed by giving the name of the fabric (some fabrics being made by only one or two mills) the loom records for such fabrics have been included in Table 80 under the caption * ^Ladies' Dress Goods, Worsted" or * ^Miscellaneous Worsted Fabrics" or "Miscellaneous Woolen Fabrics." 1082 BEPORT OF TABIFF BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. BEPOET OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDUJbE K. 1083 o C9» > s 6 • .*a. ■§ DQ Q ■»«• O .■** o § o #* s Q s » 1 to si pj > O g* ^ ooSooooooooSooSKoooooS^SSSSg .•««r«« S 2 S" 3P !9 3g g fc p; g »o 55"w ej c2 s8 -I 5 ^~•«^^» >OGOCO «§?^§^§§§<§05^^««5*«O«gg^,,^ ' " '" '"" ^^ 1^"( 1^14 ^""l a22S:3aa532aSS*2SS*£!2;SS£J3a«*«>«) CI ei (N d M M e* M M w N MWMci e«cic*MNe*e«o*©ic««M o o ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ooodo o 00 "O "O Xf • • • • ^^■n-^^^^JSSS^d o <=»' 0*000 o* o' d o' o' 0' ft* ft* J 5599\*7?7????^^?^^^^^^sr§5?5s:s2: c^ e t- 1- 1^ t~ t>- 1- ■4 -4 '«i -^ -^ "4 -4 -v ,,_,,,_,^^,_(,-^,_l,-4,-(,-4TH^-l^-^»H•r-*»H1-l^H^-l'•^T-^.-l.-^I-lC^C>^•-Hl-H^-<^<•^S1■5'005CO h-t^rc t^MeOCOWrogsop ^_t^t>-^-t^I>-^'-^-^»»~t~^-t^t~^^^-t^^-c~-^--•t»^~t~-'4'•^t>^-^-^^o>c»(*^--^-^1-^-*'t^^3lOOOC5 0oa» ><'edcoeoeoe6eoe«9-«f'«eocoeoe»D««e»ieO'*e>5e<5'*'*roe.-*^-t^Cft»HNoi»-^c»NOt»eooooooOi-iioO''*'»Oi--i-*T}e«oO'V•*■*•c'*'c^'-^o•oco£«'-^a3ao^osQDao■*co^-c»■^J"'*coas»0"*^^ooo05»ooo»oo5 00c-ll-l■>»-oo :23?55S53SSSSS§a2^^c5feSS$Js?3g2gS8S§5aSSI§;5J^S38^^S?3SS2Sg3§S&S5£5 ?§^?S^?5^^?3?5?5S?5^2gSSS*SSSSS5;;3S«S22?3l3S«^SS OooooM50aooos5«eO'*-^eoo>c«f5'«*u5«oeoeoci«0»o< Jg5§S?e^S«M3r-i«cscScccloorHe<5coc»TOC*'fc<«Seo«^c«oweoi-f.-«--^io^ i>.S?35e3«roo55^*'*w«^^^'*"*^«'*'*-*"*"*"^oioc»»o»oo-#-^^"'-i(Nco ci ci w c< w r-i 1-1 co i-tcoei J«| ^ JIh ^ ;i5 JIh t4 tH t-H-H i-H 1-t r-4 r-4 rl i-l 1-1 T-t r-« T-l 1-1 T-( 1-H rH .-« tH T-l t-H rl rH T-« r-t rt r^ i-l S8SSS8§g2§$§S^§S^2S22g2^g§§^gSgS2gg2§§§^SS88888SS8g88 r-t O 00 OS O ■* 1^ aO t~ '3 50 US » O O Jl5c^r-HrHr4.-(r-(^H.-1i-Hr-(»-(tH»Ht-0OCI'VC0OO r-< r-irl T-( tI .-I :S:$'^$$^$$$$$$$$$$$$$$^$$$$$^$$$$$^^$$^SSS^$^^^:8:s^is:3i3!SS aoooc««MOoaOMoo«c^e^c^o-l r-lr-( rH I— I i-l 1— 1 r-< i-l t-i i— I rH 1-1 i-l «0»C«Coo-*WQ"^'*'*'*0'^00 i5"^r5"r?i— I >-« 1-t r5"i-( i-li-Hr-»i-"4t-t»-lT-»r^»-(i-"tr-ti-«r-4i— li— lf-li-Hr-l<-H<^t-^i-^r- • I ■ ■•ttltti O O O "TS no ^'O o o o o o o o o o « fl ■ • • • • ■ • o c c o o o o o o o o o o o d o o o o o o o o o o o r^*^ r^ tj3 t;3 'O "O "O 'O ""^ '^ "^ "^ *^ "O 'TZJ'O 'X-' "XS "^ "^ 'O *0 'O T? 'O • •■■•■•■••••««a>i*t«ati»it • ■••■••ffiaat«t*it*iii«««i*aii«ait>"*««a>i*a«att ii«i*t»«*«tiif««***«tftti*atliaat«iia«t«i«««iaaf »••■ ••••••• ■■•«ttt«a»>t»i«<«*i*«iati S§§§§§§8§§g§S§§S§§SgSS§§§§§§§§§§S§§§§5^SggSS88gS8SSgS t--<«-Ht-1'-^>-^'Ha-<1-Ha— ti-H»-Hi— la—a.— (T-«« CO CO « CO eo"« eo coco i^escocMeocoa>cioc»a>oa>'«''«'Oa-ir-.oo--oooo ceoQio>o>o>q-^>occc«ciooeo)Q>dc<9eQc«3cocococoeccic4cira r4 f-4 i-t t-« f-4 r4 f-4 fH iH f^ f-« rt rH rH r4 rt^ r^ iH i-« p>t r-t i-« f-4 r4 f-4 •-• r-t 1-^ I 1084 KEPORT OF TABIFF BOAKD ON SCHEDULE K. ■^ • t3 o ^ o C5> d • > -4^ 3 1 o 1 1 Q O O •s o H •s* 0} fs, § tf Pi gj O •^ ?: fkjll T o CO 3 A T3 s OQ > Hi > g o o a a; •3 "3 S f (3]& "W* ''^'Bl''' '"'(r' ''flr' '^HT' 'Ij' IJI' ''(jj' ^'w' ^'flr* 'tjf* "'(f' ^^^ '■^Jl (Tw ^5^ ^Ij^ 'HJi "^v* ""Oi ^C ^IJ* ^(n tf^ ^BP >^ 6 5*3 pi wpOMeosococoMcooocococoeococorocococQcocoooeococ'i o J, h5 •§ At .i0I^OOP0f^OCsOr-e«3OMO00iOC^O©<»0COO00«iO B S 3 fcV If P-S a J •o«-*'«'t»e«so-irr-.'*oi»caooo>-HC»o»-«ao«oo'*oo<-HO'0'*cocDt>.ro<©t»iQcow'*co s I "3 «> i2. W t^ ^^ twit ^ •• — ^ ^• Sj ffl ^ .*>•.-«•• ».M-««»«t r4 C4 fH r^ 1-4 Cl tH t— I r^ 1-4 "-i CI »-l f-4 t-i iH »^ i-i r-t i— > »-t »o lo ..-s to u5 lo «3 3 25 'O — ' '-=■ --3 w "O «? «o «c "5 »'W*-*'VWQOOooooooO'aoooooocoo e*cic»««e*e'ic»c*«e«cicie> »■•■•«•••••• o ooooooo^oooooooooooooo *0 "T^I 'Xa! X? TD TH? ijjTiijtXJ "O TU "O X? HD *0 T^ tl? X? tH? T3 *0 X? o o ^ I© gggS eo « « •s ■ «••••■■*■«• ooooooooooooooooooooooooo •0 f[]3J. fjJT3X3T3X3T3l'TJT?T3X'T3T^ • • • • I ■ ■ • • • • • a • ■ *Z3 • a t» !a "^ 3 C I cii cii e!i M e!i c^i e!i ci c^ « w c!i M c^i c^ o»o«c«oinio 8^asc<5^'*-*'*-Hec«NC^c4oic4i©r^tNlio«o»o«3«o.,-.,-Ht-M<#>•••■■■• ■ •••••■•tt«« o o 'O'O o o o o o o o o o ^^^ o o o o o "O T? 'O T? T3 I I ." ! ; I I ; .' ! 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Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 32 1110 BKPOBT OF TARIFF BOABB ON SCHEDULE K. '2 P d o (J m O o c tZ} O ■Ota* a J? 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I 1-1 O O »-t i-H i-l C.C, o o f2-9555-95 oooooooooooooooooooooo ^•di3'dX>XJ'0'd'C)'C3'dTDX3'O'0'C5'OX)'d'0'0'3'O'0T3i3'3T3'0 ■ ••••• ■ • ••••«• • •••••• • •••#■• • ••••• ■ t » I t « • ■ t • t • • • • • •§•■•• • •■•••■ 0000 'O'O'd'O c o o o o 'd T? "O 'd 'O 00000 Tt "3 13 13^3 35 35 g Q cy CJ « * 'ir -"Ti '>t< ■'I' ■«»« TP -«• TT. -.r -v ■* T»i -^ TTi T>« ^ ^ -g. ^ ■v ^ 00 oc 00 S o »c o w cl o t^ t^ C501010lOOi-Hi-Ct^OOOClC!JOCOOOOClcnr^'^OiO'«'OOCCOipOCOi001 s5 ^ cJcidr^a?^g3oi§?c^?Jsi?i§J?j?JSJ?JSJc5SJS3sssss?s?5^g^s BEPOKT OF TABIFP BOABD ON SCHEDULE K. .S8Se8a8c2c2c«c2oS^^o8c3ooot^t^oooooooOO o a a a a J III o " 80 g, •a 3 u S TO •.&» •^ I m CO 3 jiQl Q O o o ;^ w o o CO H aw o << BO'S 2 3 Sr* Ss > O SSSSSJ.S8SS§SSSSS8SS8S888883 f^ •^ *^ f""< f""i ^i"ii» fiiH| ooooooooaoooooflOooooaoaoaoQoooooooooooaooooeiacoao eoeoe9«eoeoroo3eoeoeoe«o«co'«'e«oo3e<3eoo-u3»oic«Oto ^^^^^^^^^^^444^^0 o ood do do^- 2 !> ''S! ? ^i ? S? S>' ! l ' a 'i i:" ! l; ' r'"^ " " "** "< '-''-'w « ro « w . ■^wi.w^ ^r ^r ^P '"V ^^^^^ o o^^ P o Q 6 6 6 6 o d d d d d •d -q -o tS' T3 TJ "O -o -o -o "O T* -a Ts "O -o -o -o -o -a •§ •§ o o SfifiSQSC^QQOOOO ^P ^ ^f* ^ ^V ^ iO ^ "^W* "^ ■^ ^ ^ eio* of cv» « c* of w w w n" M w ci « w « ,H*^M^ > 3 ''s w ( ■ o t-i o i>- < S2222222£2£2£2!!i'^f^'^"«''««i«dcioioic*oioj«i REPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. 1183 «ra lO IQ lO >Q >0 »0 O © -^ O O tC tC rC oo t» 00 oo ; 00 c» !5 '* t '-T 5i P* P f* £2 1^ fc; fc i^ fc S2 S2 S2 2 Q r* ?^ ^ :$ "t: "I '^ S 't '»■ ''* ^' '^^ ?G CO o 05 en o ^ o t -- ci -c -^ ^■^eceoececcceocoo*»'OoO'-H(»t^aio^eool'*«'£o•^c■^t^coccl^^^■* oooot- g88g?5gg5§8gg8Sg8SSggSS$8SS?g$$ag?S8?88S?5SS?5?SiSgggSS8 »*»ni*-*:i »-?»w-» " CI O "^ Oi « PI -1< »^ C) X O ^ OC 'X -T< >— I 1— ( <— I Ol ■* ■* ■^ ■» ■* ^ ^ ■* -V D* CI CS CJ N 0> C^ Ci W OJ •V eO ""l" ■* -^ ■* n" •* rp -^ ■T< -^ ■^ -ir -* ^9^ i§§i§i§§§*SSSSSSSSSsSSJagSgSSSg§gi§§8§gi;^.i;.gg§gggg2g2§SS cccoooiOQOOOQOc-)cic-lt-tr-ir-»i— ir-(»-«»OC>»'*COPCeOC-it- lO >fl O) ifl ■* f C^J C^ -^ ■fl' C-: Ol -f O-l -c o o o o ■r I - ^? r^ :-t t ~ r ^ r^ ^- t-- ^:l r- ro cc r^ cc C-: CO :»:' oi CO -r CO o5 00 r-,,-,r-iT-H,-i,-,,-(,-)r-lr-(M>-li-l.-lr-(T-lT-lr-lt-l,-(r-(r- • 2 PT5 Si* -w 1 o! 8ao| S w d • ft ei 2 ^ hit J.-^ O H O e9 o fl-fl ® 3 t4 Ij > ,J£ o cs !I w »4 o 04 o 5 im d S OP y.J^^Bu B" ^ t*t^«tN.t»oi^i*-«»«t^t^oa»co»o«o«o«o««i N CO rf ■^oiO'^'^i-to.-iaowooNooes.-ioit'-owoot^ooMO «i'«'»oooc>rMa5eir-*-^OQOcirtosQo«ot^(Meooot^o is S5'-^r:SS3^J§^SSSSgl^5SSS^S?iS3&KP:P K C'» p J Ti* IN fi ^'OCi?<^»^ciooJ^MTOMe3o«Seo^So K,(MC* i-«r-lr-(.-( .-( ,-4 ^^^^J^il^^*^"" '*3Ort«0'i«OOO^"31MO0c«3-=Jc.ie5SScl^Ci;4S6i ti; CI rH ^ rH f^i _( c» ci c^ ^ r-4 cj M t-( CI fH 61 e^i ,4 cJ ^ c4 ^ 52SSSSgS§g8:2S8:2giS88^8S8SS8S 8S^SSgJSS§aSg55$599^5$5§5§9 5Pooeooc(Xioo^oeicioooQOooc©<»ooo«o«oioio»Oij« ■S -a -^ -tS T3 T3 T3 -O T3 TJ "d "d -a -O -O T) T3 "S -S -O -O -O •§ -§ •§ •§ lf""_- _- _ .ij iiia f «ii »«. <«■ i iTi-m.ii n , <»■ c n -l'ci"i--i"»-lcS"C*r^ • • > I • t I • •••>•• • •••<•• • ■•••«• • • t • ■ • a • • • I t • I •5 ^^ ^ TJ -d -d xJ -d -d TJ -d -o "d •§ -d •§ •§ -d -d -d -d •§ -d -d -o •§ i r-T ci' i-T 6? r-t r-i" c? ci" »^"" 1-^ »-t '^ [■- 'T O O O 0> Cl 04 O 00 I'^ <0 00 »■■• t-- »>• so O t>- t-i to 1^ O «i d -« r^-H i-H •"^r^^r-Tt-nWc^'c^'c^ M N N w c^ci" cTcf ef N e< eJ EEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD 01^ SCHEDULE K. 1185 »OoSSSoe*35Soooo5o6«ooc^c^NNC^c^c^c^c^c^^c^c^c^e^c^t^^-Ne^Nc^<^^c^<3so>c>o )C<»-^"3.-t— tcOOWiO-^MOO o ■^ ;o M ® eo »o ■«»< »H «o "^ --< ^^ »H M -"ti •»*< o -^ oD Q <0 -Tt" t>. »ft N e^ c«'rj;c^c<3eow'rfe<3NC^eoiHC^ec«c^c^^ ooot»OMa>oc»C'iociiooo«c^o»0'>ro-«*i»oecaoooosMe500t-ioxoc^»--to«'«i4<»-•'-^coc^r^loeoc3o^weoMMT-^NeoI-^ecco»-Oi05^~a5P^»ot>-1--^eo'*.-lOO ciMci cl^'^'Vco^'^c^Mcoeoeo'^Tfeo'^tow^'^'^eocoTrcoiOT-icai-i N t-ii-4Ciwcsc^rHrH.-ic» 8B^§S8S88S8§8S888S888SSS8S8SS8S^§§SS82228gSS58§SSS§§^ osr^ocooooocoooc»ooi»oaoQOooooaoooooooooooooceoOQOooocc««'*Ot-Heoe>»ocoor^»^c^ih-gooiW'»ti^ wcoco^^'0»o»o«0'3'0»ocoS"0>OkC»oo«oio>0'00»Q««o«oio»oc^eoc<«T-<<-HrHrHi-Hcocsi--ieoc•ooo e6^oeo>5S^t--c-i'^t--«oL-5M-=JMO&«5i--&Soceoo<» CO CO o I-,-, 2s ^MM^^^^^^C^NC^NC^c^c^c^C^eocoeoeoeocoweocoeocoeoeocoeOl-^r^cocoeocococoeocococoeoeococoeoeO■«l<■^c^c^M ^SSS8Sg8§S^gS^Sg88SS88SSgS{§g8S8^g8888^88SS88S8SS88SS§§ oo^cx)oo<»c^aoOGoao(Xcx}ccacoo<»oo(X)BOoox30Wooooccoocooo(X)oooo«)Qoaocoooc«o^ O O O O O tJ *tj3 *x3 *0 *0 o o TJ-d • •••••■»••• «#•»• • ••(••■(Igtl ■>•• ■<•!• ■ ••■•■•■•(•■■•■•■•■•t !••••«•••, •■■••«••■■• • ■•'••«■••■■■■••■••■■ • ••*•##•••'•••••'•••• #••'•«#■<•••'• • • ••••••••••••• o o o o 'd'd'd'd o o o •d'd'd oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 'dTa'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'dxJ'd'd'd'd'd'd o oooooooo ■d 'd'd'd'd'd'd'd'O • •fltitiaik,*! • fi*tBiii*«*i*«i*l«tf«»*>»«< • »i ••••laiii iia*ti iii>ii*iit*i(**ti»«t«*>a««i* ■ .■...■■■..■.■.4>ii*iiittt***>«titai»a*Bia»ii. 066066666666666666600 WT"* ^p"^ *'ip^ ^^ ^n ^""5 'HP^i f"! 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Booxs Total amotmt eftmed. Pounds produced. Number of Average twists per Inch. Description of yam. BEPORT OF TARIFF BOARD ON SCHEDULE K. ' MULE SPINNING DEPARTMENT: CARDED WOOL. 1221 Occupation. Persons employed (sex). Males. Females. 16 years and over Country of birth. Under 16 years 16 and years, over. Under 16 years. Number of spindles. Per mule. Per spinner, Machine (place and date of make). Time and earnings. Hours worked. Wages earned. Production. Pounds produced. Number of yam. Description of yam. MULE SPINNING DEPARTMENT: WORSTED. Persons employed (sex). Occupation. Males. 16 years and over. Under 16 years. Females. 16 years and over. Country of birth. Number of spindles. _, Undea IG years; Per mule. Per spinner. Machine (date and place of make). Time and earnings. Hours worked. Wages earned. Production. Pounds produced. Number of yarn. Average twists per inch. Description of yam. WOOL SHRINKAGE. Wool in the grease. Date. Lot No. Place of origin. Market grade. 32080°--H. Doc. 342, 62-2. vol 2 39 Price per pound. Number of pounds. JLjEi £a jLk BEPOET OF TARIFF BOAED ON SCHEDULE K. WOOL SHRINK AG E-Contlnued. Samred wool. f 1 Per cent. Tops produced. Noils produced. Comb waste. Card waste. Totu pounds. Prod- uct. Loas. Pounds. Per cent. Pounds. Per cent. Pounds. Per cent. Pounds. Per cent. SUPPLEMENTARY SCHEDULE. Trade name of goods. Total yardage produced. Total yards perfect goods. Total yards Imperfect goods. Yardage yielding less than regular selling price. 10 per cent. 20 pier cent. 30 per cent. Waste. (Sold at pound rates.) / The Tariff Board, washington-, d. c. THE WOOLEN AND WORSTED INDUSTRY. Pay roll No. or name of employee Sex of employee (male or female) Under or over 16 years of age Specific occupation of employee Name of department of mill where working Years or months employed in this mill Years or months employed in this occupation Years or months employed in the woolen industry Name of former industr}^ and occupation before begi Country of birth of employee Identification No I ginning work in woolen mills Loom Card. Pat Roll No Loom No Wearer Male Female Runs Looms Beams Shuttles Harness. Speed picks per mln. Weaver's piece price per yar< Hours— 1st day 2d day 3d day 4th day Sth day 6th day pe Total Picks per inch Loom width Total 3'ards woven Ends Weight per yard Warj) Filling Trade name of goo< is Style'No." '.I'.l'.'.l'.'.'.'.'.'.y Piece No.' '.'.".'.' '.'.'.'. INDEX. A. Aborigines, emplojrment of, in Australia 43^ Actual rates paid on specific cloths 723 Adrianople skin (Kassapbatchia) wools 33 4^ 42^ Afganwooi :::;:::;;::;;:;;;;. ..'42,' 428 Africa, wools of ' 43c Alabama, sheep conditions in .........[..... 547 Albanian wool 43 ^99 Aleppo wool -^ -]!.*...."...*.. 42' 431 Alpaca (see also Hair) 33 40 Alpaca fabric .[."..[ .[[[..1 145 American charge for combing 641 American conversion cost for worsted yarns 64g American merino ." .' ! "3i;353,'548, 552 American wools 30,299 300 301354 Analysis of — » , , , «^ Men's clothing costs... 856,864-874 Women s clothing costs 894-8a8 Angora goats " ." . " gi ? American, quality of mohair from .'-"'..!..] 1 " ] 612 Average shearing per head in America gi 3 Average value per head gi « Browsing habits of gi4 g|K C'are necessary in feeding []'] ' g, ? Difficulties in raising ] ' ' " g^J Exportation of, prohibited ] /, ^i? Handling on ranges " ' ' g|i Handling on western ranges no In South Africa ^^^ Labor required to care for . Length of fleece of Losses of «, . Mottonof -".".'.'.".*.".'.".'.■." " gjo Necessary ecjuipment for handling [ gi f Number of , m Cape Province 20Q Shearing of g,., fz^ Receipts from sales of mohair '.'. ' a^t Wool of 11^ Appendix A: '^-'■ Duties on raw wool and certain articles of wool manufacture in Austria- Hungary, Belgium, Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Jaoan, Russia, and owitzerlanu ' ^p ^—o-rn Number of sheep in the Australian States'from'isM 'to im " 400 -*-»— Appendix B : '^^ *^°i^Pn?*^^i^^r?*^*®™^^* ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^0^ ^^^ manufactures of wool from 17o9 to 1909 9''7_9Q~ Production of wool in the Australian StatesVi966 to'i969.* ." .' "' ~lgi Appendix C: Exports of wool from the Commonwealth of Australia", "i966' to i'^" AM Appendix D : Commonwealth wool exports in bales .".*.".".'." 404 Appendix E: Local prices of Australian merino wools for 10 yearJ *.* 494 Appendix F: Distribution of wool sold in principal Australian markets 494 Appendix G: Approximate prices of Australian wools in princioal maikete'at the close of the 1909-10 season 611 615 613 "^toa^^^^^' ^^^^^^'^ of mutton and lamb "from 'tiie CommVnw'eaii of Aus-* 1223 495 496 1224 INDEX. INDEX, 1225 JpajMjt Appendix I : Typical pastoral areaa in Australia, held under Government leases ^q_ Appendix J : Condition of public estate iii AustraUa . ' ." aqr Argentina: *^ Agriculture of ^2*; An estancia in [ Sno Breed of sheep in ."..'.' ^9a ?9ft Climatic conditions of .";: ^^^'K? Cultivation of maize in rog Decline of eheep breedinsr in co? Diseases of sheep in ^24 Fences of '......].. Kon Future of dieep industry in ro^ roo Grades of wool in .■;.:;;; 'on? Lands in ^27 Method of herding sheep [ rqo Pure-bred «heep in ko5 Scab in ^. .:::;;;;;;;;;;: i? Sheep industry. (See Sheep industry in South America;) lable of exports and prices for wool ^41 Wages in ■- ^^ Wool, character of in 33 34 42 528 Arizona, breed of rams and ewes in ' fio^'fiAT Asiatic wools I'o Tijsin Auction wool : - - . - 4., 4^7, 4J0 Auction in Australia 35 oio 4fiq London auctions "[] ' 35 o?? Other auctions Ill]" 912 Australasia, wools of 41'^a aqc Australia: 34,40,436 American demand for wool of ^gg Approximate prices of Australian wools in principal markets at the close of the 1909-10 season ^qs- Artesian water in [ .qo Boundary riders employed in l'.'.'/. Aoi Building railroads in ^g-. Capital invested in wool industry in 491 Climatic conditions ^..2 Condition of public estate ". aqZ Cost of fences in ^-o .gj Cost of laborers in 404 Cost of provisions in 404 Destruction of rabbits in 1. 1... [.[.[[ 470 Development of wool sales in [[ 35212 469 Distribution of wool sold in principal Australian markets ' '404 Drought in ^^ Effects of drought on sheep industr}' in ' rcc Employment of aborigines in '..'.'.'..'. 486 Exports of mutton and lamb from the Commonwealth of Australia 496 Extension of Government railways in 40-1 Fences in *. ] ^yg .gj First sheep in [ ' ^g. Freight on mutton from ^ ' * " ] 470 Future of sheep industry in ^qq General tables concerning wool industrv' '.'. 492-498 Improvements in '. 335 Increase of lambs in 4^7 Investment per head of sheep lllll" 333 Labor costs in ^gQ ^g« Labor difficulties in ^ • .... ............[.[ .[[[[[[ ' 455' 486 Land system of '..'.'.'.'.'.'.". ' 475 Land taxation 475 Land values in .^.11". [....I. [....[[[ 439 Leased land exempt from tax in 433 Local consumption of wool in 470 Local prices of Australian merino wools for io years. JJ..... [.........[.][ 494 Australia — Continued. P&ge. Market prices in .«- Merino and crossbred sales """"[[[[ 212 Method of handling fleece ,[] 337 i.i Net charge against wool in ' ^ ^^0 Number of sheep in of\k"^f\K aoo Paddocks, size of ..;.: 205,305,492 Paddock system of V^Z Pastoral lands of ." 47-? 497 Pastoral leaseholds, selling value of 48Q Percentage of merino sheep in " on? Production and export of wool in kkfi'lQ'i aqa Provisions against drought in lit Purchase of land by States in 1^ Receipts per head of sheep in oVq Rents of lands in J^J Returns from sheep industry in -'.-.............. 409 Scale of sheep laborers' wages in 40^ Scarcity of labor in [[[[[ 40^ Shearers' wages in 405 Shearing equipment in ^ ! ^ 1 ^ ^ ] 1 !!''."].... ." 337 Sheep diseases in 4g« Sheep industry. (See Sheep industry in Australia.) Strikes of sheepshearers in 400 Surplus stock and mutton in ] 47? System of land leases in 47^ Trade unions in 435 Ultimate carrying capacity of number of sheep in.*.'.'.".'.". .'..'. 499 Union labor m „ . Igc Unoccupied lands in 47? Varieties of sheep .' 4^0 Wages of herders in 340 Workers' and shearers' unions in '. 400 Working cost in 40^ Australian Commonwealth , special report upon .... 4^0 Australian markets, development of Irq Australian sheep: ^ Shearing weights of 4^0 Special report on 7^ \ arieties of 4^, Australian studs ^^^ Australian wools [[ ooo'lnnJiai Austria, wool manufactures 299,400^06 Austria-Hungary, wools in 4-? 49? Automatic machines: -^o, ^zx J-ooms , Scouring machines "^^' ^(5° ^"^^^^ooi """:::::::::::::::::::::::::'42;43i,432 B. Bagdad wool o, .oa^oo Bags, wool, cost of ^^'^^^^2 Basis of wool classification qS "Basket " clause : ^ Analj^sis of duties ;^^^^^^ Definition ino Imports under .' " |!j'^ Materials provided for by jii Rates of duty ' -[^ j"^ Bathing suits, men's ' q^JJ Belgium : ' ^-" Comparison with leading manufacturing countries 9^^9t{R Scouring machines made in 1091 Wool manufactures " ". ^r J Blackface sheep 00 Zia Blackface woof. .' ." ^^' ^;J 43 I } 1226 Blankets; (?ommcrce for leading countries. . , DclinitioD INDEX. Page. 141 137 Duties under proviso. i «« f X~ Exporta of bknketa and flannels '.[ ' i^L Imports — ^^^ Analyeis of rates iia ion For 1911 ..".:.■::;:: Ill For representative years iQO-i^rt Making of ^^^]^^ Production 140-141 Production in United Kingdom ....".''. \ai Katea of duty ^ ; «« tH Bokhara wool ^S' ^tL Joeton, freigh to on wind to po ^^^Zm)!''^^' ^^"^^ ^'oml^ii^g (Bi^ford'systemy and^bm"^ng*(i5^^^^ ^ Bradford system of wool conditioning. . . Braid wool _ British Isles, wool from 105 38 419 British sheep, types of j!q British South AMcjt: ^^ South Africa.) 209 Number of Angora goafs, etc., in the Cape... . Sheep industry. {See Sheep industry in British So Buenos Aires: Number of sheep in coo Sheep raising in '.'.V.'.'.'.V. 59^ Buildingsand equipment, comparative cost of, UnitcHhStetesand Engkiad .* '.'.'. . 705 uurit'rsi Country of birth 9=2 Q^q 0^4 Hourly rates of wages rioo' 009' iit J.'* iiiiiLrtri tiro nto I roportioii ( »i 1 AT- 1 n-o f^ J- 107o, 10/ 6 w^^f:::::::;;;;;:;;:;;;:;;;;;;;:;;; ^"^^ Burling and mending department. {See Department, employe"es'bv ) ^ Bushirewool ^ * "^ 431 439 Bussorah wool lA Toi Too 42, 431, 4. 2 30 C02 602 AH'* c. Cabretta slieep California: Breed of rams and ewes in fiAn aat Breeds of sheep in ] ^'J^Xl Conditions in " ' ' JC^n Decline in numbers of sheep in /^^n liambing in °"^ IN umber of herders required in Number of sheep in Sheep within fenced inclosurea in] ^ ^ ^ J. . .".^ 1 V.V. Wages of herders in rn < Calmuc wocd .^y "7^1L Camel's hair ?« kq Camel hair, Russian '.V.V.V. iV^i'r.o 40ft Canada. {See Country- of birth of employees.) *<5, o/, oj, ^.0 Canada, sheep industrv' in ' 4'>fi_4'',Q Canadian wool clip. . . .' jr > Canadian woc»ls kk' -i^' a(\a^'7 Cape Province: d6,.W,40,4o7 Diseaaes of sheep in ri a Land values in tZn Wool of ^i? Capital: ^^ Average income on in United States 393 Average per head of pheep ojo Caps and hoods, ladies' ^il-^'-'l *.-.".*."'.". '"!!*! 945 USTDEX. 1227 Carbonized wool: ^ Duty on ^^^• Process of carbonizing ] ] ' \j^ Card grinders : "^ Country of birth orn ot:i Hourly jates of wages V ^^ ^51 Number 986,990 Sex .;:.■.::.:; i^,^^i Card tenders: ®^i ^^1 Country of birth Hourly n.tes of wages ";:::::-";:::::::;:::;::::;:;::-986,9^;m Sex.....".;.;;;;..;;.;;.;;;;;;;; 950,951 Carded wool: ^^» ^^1 DejSnition Duty on '.'.'.'.'.'..'..'. C^q ]^^ Manufacturing process -^^^' \]^ ^""^'Tvotte^'TaMing.f '' ^^I^^^^^^t' employees" by,* Woolen" Warding," and Carding machines: Number of operatives ,^^^ ^.-^ Nmnber of machines TnW ^ 1;«^ Place of make t23^??5 Productive efficiency V. S in^? Years in operation ;;; ;aaa ! xS^' j"^^ Carpenters: ^"^•^' ^^26, 1042 Country of birth or9 nro NZt'e/""'"*'''^"' •■^^^^^^^"::::::::::::;:::;:;-989;993iw? Sex... 952,953 Ca^ct w"il"!^ ^"i^^y.. ^^ ^"^ ^*^^' '^^''' ^^'°°'' i^anuficiu;^'.) ' ' '^^' '^ Carpet-a: " " Aubusson, Axminster, Moquette, and chenille- Imports for representati\'e years , ^^ Manufacturing process • . f;^ Production 1/4-175 Rate of duty.. .".'**!.'.'.'; i-. Hf Brussels and Wilton — '^^ ^'^ Definition Duties on V.....V...'.'. Mcv-i Imports for representative years i-a Manufacturing process ]] ] " ] j£° 178-179 174 413 Production Commerce for leading countries..... .. Compensatory duties in 1867— Analysis of Changes since 1867. . . . .'.'..'. Tableof ;'""" Imports — By countries For representative years. Ingrain — Definition and classification Dutieson Imports for representative years".'. '. '. [ ...'., ', jSi' ]^i Manufacturing process TqT loo Production ■^®^'"|°^ . ^ , providod for— ^°^ Articles ma^ 169-171 . 171 - 170 - 173 - 174 - 181 181, 182 Not specifically provided for Articles made of carpet material .... , <,- Duty on ^^' Imports for representative years l^l Tapestry brussels and velvet— ' ^^* Definition Duties on i 70 i sn Imports for representative years. ' ™ Manufacturing process ™ Production f^^ 181 jlZ^o INDEX. INDEX. 1229 (jSJBhmeie (see aho Msdi) *?« Cassimeres: *" Weave-confltniction of 1080-1217 Yards woven by individual weavers '. 1080-1217 Efficiency of individual weavers 1080-121 7 Castel Branco wool " SS 419 Central Asian wools .......[. 49' 497 Chaco, Bheep raising in ' 52^ Characteristica of the clothing industrv ..[ ' 846-S47 Charge per pound of wool in United States 07^ Charts (stffi aZso Diagrams): Comparison of number of sheep in ranch States and farm States, 1890-1910 201 -^=«^nsumption of cotton and cotton yarn in wool manufactures, 1860-1910 94 importation of Cla^s 1, 2, and 3 wools, shoddy, rags, wool waste, and noils" 1890-1911 203 " Jaw matenals used by all branches of wool manufacture, 186(>-1910 96 Raw wool _ -■ 299 _^Top pnces, January, 1907, to October, 1911 ' " opp 644 ^-S^alue of products m important branches of wool manufacture in United btates, 1860-1910 o- Cheviot, fancy and plain: Weave-construction of ia«a_i917 I arda woven by individual weavers i o«n-i 91 7 ±4tiiciency of individual weavers i nsA_i 9i 7 Cheviot sheep 38 444 China lamb's wool, definition qq ^qa China, wool of 4^ 4q 4Q4 Chubut, sheep raising in ' 'ton lassincation of wools: Class 1 — Adrianople skin (Kassapbatchia) 33 American qcq? Australasian 3^ Bagdad «« Canadian og Caatel Branco Ill ..] .lllll[[[[ 33 China lamb's ..........' 33 Crossbred 00 Definition of 3-1 Egyptian 00 oa ii-nglish (reexports) 35-36 Merino * 31-32 Mestiza, Metz, and Metis 1].". *...*" ...!. 31 32 Morocco ' 3g Russian ot- South African "l^l'.'."'.'."'.'.'.'.'.[[ 35 South American oq Class II— "^ ^Ipaca 3g .Q Argentina '.a Camera hair 3g Canada long wools 00 qq ^a Cashmere... ;.".': ::;;;;.':; 38,39,40 Cotswold QQ ■T\ £• -.• 00 Definition 3g Down combing "-"■■""":;:";:::;;;:;; 33 f^.SlisJ^ 38,39 Leicester '30 Lincoln 00 Mohair ^5 Class III— ^" Central Asian. ^2 China *** At* Definition ^i East Indian ^« iiiuropean ^« Classification of wools— Continued. ^*^' Class III — Continued. Native South American .^ .« Native Smyrna " ] ] tf Russian camel's hair ^1 Russian (Donskoi) ™ TTT 1 • » • ' ••---■--•-------.....-. 41 wools m Asia Jj Classing of fleeces Jn ClimaUc condition in the United States. ..'. '. qqo Cloth cost in men's clothing manufacture. ... e«? Cloth cost, relation of, to cost of clothing. ... t^t Cloth finishing, Huddersfield, England %l Cloth-manufacturing costa, comparative, yam to finished cloth ati Cloth-manuf actunng costs, German and American . . aqJ Cloth perchers: "^'^ Country of birth . Q^q Si'''" '^ '"'"'' :::;:: '988:991,1^3 sex!^.. ..'.*;;;;;.". ■;;.■:;'; 952,953 Cloth, woolen and worated: ^^^' ^^^ Commerce for leading countries -, „« Duties on ioo'ioo To? Exports from United IGngdom i^z, i^d-125 Imports— ^^^ Analysis of duties -.9. -,„- By countries io2 For 1911 ^^^ X ur x»xx _ For representative years tit anuf acturing process j^^ Natureof fabrics ™ (Production of— ^"^^ Woolen fabrics ,9^ ,90 Worsted fabrics i^? Woolen and worsted fabrics compared j 90 Production in United Kingdom and Germany.... ." 190 ToS Clothing industry and foreign trade c^a Clothing industry: °^ How clothing is made q_^ Investment ■ °^ Scope and method of inquiry into'.;.*.*.*.*.'.'. ~eS Clothing industry in the United States. (See Wool'manufictiir'es ) Coal for sheep camps ^^ _.. Colorado: ^w Breed of rams and ewes in ^^k „^^ Cost of hay in 605-607 Smbing'!'^^'^' ^^""^^^ "^"^^ ^^ "^^^^ American charge for _ Comparison of American and English cost .*.". '. ati Cost of, in a continental plant ^T; English chai-e for ?jf French, in the United States .";.":;: lH German commission charges for ^tj Manufacturing process of ™ On commission in foreign countries. ..*;;; iVJ Combing (Bradford system): " ^^ Average count Average number of operatives per comb .... jnoc Average wage rates ^ |"^2 Labor cost per pound ™° Number of macliinea ™° Number of operatives jJJ^; Productive efliciency jXoo Combing (French system): ^^^^ Average count Average number of operatiVes* per'comb '.'.'.'.'.'. S Average wage rates jjj^" 1230 IHDBX. Combing (French system)— Continued. Page. Labor cost per pound logg Number of machines ..'..'..'..'.'.'..'"" 1029 Number of operatives .......,.......'.['.." 1029 Productive efficiency " 1 * ' " * 1 1 11 1 1030 Combing clepartment, operatives in '.'.V.'.'.l r950"95i,"986,'996'99i,'994. 998 {bee also Combing (^Bradford system), Combing (French Bystem), and De- partment, employees by.) Combs: Number of in United States 107 256 Number of in United Kingdom in?* ok^ Number of in Germany 107 256 Number of in France 107* 256 Types of — ' Heihnan i#u Holden 205 Lister or nip jqq ^«^}?--T ;"":":;;::i:iii:iiii 105 "Come back " wool . 35 Commission charges for combing in Germany 1 1 1 [ ^44 Comparative: American and English costs of constructing combing mill 707 American and Engliah costs of constructing woolen mill 706 American and English costs of making worsted yam from tops ...[ 650 American and English costs of constructing worsted spinning mill ........ 707 American and English costs of constructing worsted weaving mill 708 Cloth-manufacturing costs, from yam to finished cloth 1 ... 1 651 Cost of making tops, United States and abroad ' 1 1 645 Conversdon and labor costs, from yam to finislied cloth, of American fabrics g5l Conversion ct)st of different t\ pes of fabrics 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 1 ! 1 "" 11* 1 1 1 1 1 692 Cost of mill buildings and equipment in United States and England . V." 1 1 705 \\ ages and hours of labor 8X3 Comparison of American and En|?iish combing cost 1 . M 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 ] 644 Comparison of earnings in United States and Great Britain, woolen and worsted operatives 825 Compensatory duties: Blankets I37 138-139 CfPete Il"*i69^i72*i75,177!l80,182 Cloths 123, 124-125, 131, 132-133, 135, 625-626 Dress goods 146-151 Flannels 142,143,144 History of — Act of 1861 101 Act of 1867 I.. ]..[[.[[[ ioi-102 Act of ISKi ] 1 ] [ ! " . 1 ] 1 ' . . 102 Act of 18SK) 1 * 1 . ' " 1 . 1 1 102 Act of 1897 ..,.][..[] 102 Act of 1909 ..............[..[ 102 Minimum duties ............[[ 103 Object and theory lOX 103 j^ugs ;.;.'.';.";;.;.' 1 ;.'. . ' 1 84 Tops. 104^ 107, G23 \\ earmg apparel 155, 158^ 164 jqj Weigh t losses tha t occ ur in tuming scoured wool into finish vd V 1 ( )th !....[. '621 Wc»olen yam g24 Worsted yam [...[.[[.][[ 624 Yam "";;;";". ; "ii4-ii6, 121 Compensatory duty on cloth 625 Compensator^' duty on cloth that contains other materials than wi>oll .[..[[][[ 626 Concentration of men's clothing industry 847 Concentration of women's clothing industry ! 1 1 ] 1 1 1 892 Condi tioning of wool : Bradford system 205 Manufacturing process 1 . . 1 1 . [ 1 1 1 1 1 1 106 Cone drawing ' ' " * 1 " ] ] 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 110 Connecticut, industry in, investigated 1 . . 1 . 1 1 ^ 1 ] 1 ^ ! ^ 1 [ 1 1 ] 1 ! 1 1 ] 1 1 [ 1 1 1 1 1 1 949 JISTDEX. 1231 Consumption of raw materials in United States wool manufactures: Animal hair of all kinds Cotton and cotton yam --.4i4aterials used 1870-1910 Raw wool 1.1."; 111.;;: Shoddy Waste and noils Woolen rags. T&ge. 90 93 97 88 92 91 92 Consumption of wool in Europe and North America ... 1 ;; 1 1 1 ; 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 214 Conversion cost, yarn to finished cloth 691-693 Copies of schedules used in the investigation 631 Cordova wools ; i; '42,' 420, 436 Corn belt, character of wool produced in 559 Com-belt farms, slieep upon 1 1 1 1 555 Corrientes, sheep raising in [ 523 Corsican wool 1 1 1 420 Cost in sheep industry of: Feeding sheep in — England 373 France 373 Germany 373 Kentucky 1 1 H 590 New Zealand 506 Ohio region 111111 355 Fences in Australia 48I Forage Ill 111 '341, 596 Labor.... 339,483,488,507,539,594 Maintaining sheep in W isconsin 574 Maintaining sheep in Minnesota 584-585 Shearing 338,483^89,513,594 Sheep management in Great Britain 450 Costs in wool growing: Comparative operating costs by countries — Forage 34 1-343^ 349 General and miscellaneous 335-339' 349 Investment ^ 333 i-abor ;;;;;;;;;;;;"339-34i Summary of 349-353 In eastem United States — General remarks on expenses 355-356 Net charge against wool per pound in representative eastem districts, tables of 357-370 In England; Germany, and France 373-375 In western United States — l^^pge 311 Labor 311 Miscellaneous [ 311 Net charge against wool per pound 1 311 Selling 1 311 Shearing 311 Tables of 1 ; ; ; ; ; ; *315-332 Costa in wool, manufactures of: Buildings and equipment, comparative. United States and England 705 * Cloth manufacturing, comparative, yam to finished cloth 651 Cloth manufacturing, German and American 694 Combing, comparison of American and English 644 Combing in continental plant 644 Constructing combing mill in America and England, comparative 707 Constmcting woolen mill in America and England, comparative 706 Constructing worsted spinning mill in America and England, compara- tive 707 Constructing worsted weaving mill in America and England, comparative. . 708 Conversion and labor, from yam to finished cloth, of American fabrics. . 651, 693 Conversion for worsted yarns in America 648 Conversion from yarn to finished cloth on German-made fabrics, compara- tive 704 1232 INDEX. INDEX. Costs in wool, manufactures of— Continued. page Conversion from yam to finished cloth, summary gg^ Conversion of certain counts of worsted yarn from tops, comparative 650 Conversion of different types of fabrics, comparative. . 692 Converting tops into worsted yam 545 Converting wool into tops per pound of tops '. 64? Juvenile sweater coats 934-938 Labor, by processes, German spinning miil.'.' '.[[[['"I 770 Labor per pound of tops in United States 642 Ladies^ gloves oqg Ladies' hats, caps, and hoods 945 Ladies' hose ' * ] 04? Ladies' skirts 931 Ladies' scarfs and shawls "l.lll.ll.l..].].] 944 Ladies' sweater coats 1233 Ladies' sweater vests. Lumbermen's socks. 921-930 - 930 943 Making tops ^ .^ ....!..." 639 United States and abroad 545 Making worsted yarn from tops in America and England,' comparative * ' " 650 Makmg yam from dyed tops qaq Men's Bathing suits 920 Men;s clothing --.";.".';;-".'.':.*.'.'.*:." 857-864,* 883-891 Men's gloves ' 04^ Men's half hose '*"*.**.**."] ^ .'." 942 Men's sweater coats i .!."..*!...'."... ." 913-920 Mill buildings and equipment in United States and England.*.* 705 Misses sweaters and sweater coats 93'>-934 Mittens, ladies' and men's " 930 Selling and distribution of knit goods *["!.*!![ 912 Toques, ladies' ^4^ Women's clothing I .^'.I'.l'.l'.ll'.^'.lllll^llllllVmy^m Cotewod sheep 38,445,462 Cotswold wool ' qg Cotton warp ' . " ' 204^ Country of birth of employees: ^ By department in which employed. .1 950, 951, 952, 953 By formerindustry ....960 961 By occupation 950,951,952 953 By sex 950 951 . 9?2, 953, 954, 955, 956, 958, 961, 962, 963, 966,"976;977,'978,"979, 980, 98i By time in industry 971,972,975,976,979,981 BytimeinmilL... 971,973,975 977 979 By time in occupation.. 974,975,978,980,981 {See also Nativity of employees.) Cojote, losses from bdS-GOa Crio la sheep 32,42,524 CnoUa wool ' ' 3q£ Crops, cost of producing in Jlinnesota '"'".!."]"! 585 Crossbred, flocks represented 372 Crossbred sheep [[ 32*384 444 Crossbred wool, definition, history, and classification " " " 32 38' 384 Crossbreds: ' ' Scotch 444 Tendency toward breeding 394 Crutching in Australia 437 ''Cuts," length of '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.[[['.'.'. 1045 Cyprus wool * " ' 43^^ D. Damascus wool 42 431 Degreasing process '^' 46 Delainesheen ■* -'--*-■"".'-'-".'.*.*;;.".' [I :.*;;;'3i; 354, 547 Delame wool 3j 3^^ Denmark. (See Norway, Sweden, anil Denmark, and cWntry'oY birth* of ' employees.) r Department, employees by: page. Country of buth 950,951,952,953 Nativity .• 957 Occupation ] 1*. '.".*.* 950* 95i,' 952,* 953,* 985-996 ^^'' V 950, 951, 952, 953, 990-996 Hourly rates of wages 935 986, 987, 988, 989, 990, 99i,*992,*993,*994,"995,*998,'999, 1000 Depreciation ^iq Depreciation on sheep: In Ohio 35g In United States '!**"'][]""!']"]]"]]][] 336 Depreciation, percentage of allowance made on buildings and equipment. . * * *. '. 629 Diagrams (see also Charts) : Freights on grease wool, by sea and railroad, to Boston, Mass opp. 353 Relative standing of leading States as to number of sheep, 1890 and i910. . 304 Steady increase in mutton supplies and diminished marketing of cattle and hogs, as shown by Chicago receipts for past 45 years 345 Difiiculties in securing manufacturing costs 627 Dipping of sheep, cost of ".!'.*. ]'.;*.; I".' 483 "503, 599 Diseases of sheep: In Argentina 524 In Australia "]"]]][[[][ 487 In New Zealand 504 In South Africa ;;.';;;".";'5io,5i3 InUruguav 535 Disease, losses from 337 Dishley sheep 445 ^ogs;.^.... ;;;;";;;;;;";;;;;""";; 562 Inllhnois 566 In Iowa 569 In Kansas. ll"""]"]"]"]]"]"] 580 In Missouri 573 In Ohio 1 ...."].."]]]]][!]]"] 1 356 In Tennessee 586 In Vermont 545 In Wisconsin ...-....."...."* 571 572 Wild, in Argentina " ' 524 Donskoi wools '..*.'. ".".".'.'.*. "41*423,* 424, 425 Dorset sheep 449,546,549 Down clothing wools 32 33 Down combing wools '33 Down sheep '•'•'^'.'.'." '.'.'.'."'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.' 22^ 446, b4Q Drawing: ' Cone 210 ^^cii :";;;";;.":":":;:;:::::;:;::: no Open ijQ Process of ^10 Systems of ::;;:;:::::;;:;:::::;;: no Drawere-in: Country of birth 95Q 95^^ Hourly rates of wages *988,*992,*995,*999,"i001, 1003 Number 950,951 Drawing (Bradford system) : ' Average count io32 Average number of operatives per drawing frame ' 1032 Average wage rates [[ io32, 1033 Labor cost per pound 1032, 1033 Number of frames io32 Number of operatives [ "986,'99i,*994, 1029 Productive efliciency 1032, 1033 Wages... 986,991,994 {See also Drawing department.) Drawing frames: Number of operatives 1031 1033 Place of make... 1032,103311042 xToductive efficiency 1032 1034 Years in operation [ "/i632, 1033^ 1042 IITD'EX., Drawing-frame tenders: Country of birth 950 951 Hourly rates of wages • ';'"r986,'987,"99i3»4,908,'999 Number... 950,951 8©x. 950,951 Drawing department: Difference in Bradford and Frenci fiysteiJM 1031 Operatives in 930, 951, 986* 987.' 991* 994* 998, 999 Hourly rates of wages m 986.987,901,994,998,999 (6«e also Department, employees by; Drawing (Bradford system) snd Drawing ( I rench system . ) Drawing (Frenck system): Average count jq<{| Average number of operatives per drawing is%me ........"..' * ' 1034 Average wage rates [[][ 2Q34 Labor cost per pound ].']*'" 1 1 ]!]*'.*" * 1034 Number of frames 2033 Number of operatives ^i ;;;;;.";"";. ":::;*987,'991, 994 Productive efficiency IO34 Wages .... .'.*;.-".";;] r987,'991, 994 (See also Drawing department.) Dress goods: Commerce for leading countries 154 Compensatory rates.. *'"";; '.'7147, 148 Exports ay countrie?i I53 Exports from United Kingdom llllll]lll[[[[[l 154 Imports — Analysis of j^ For 1911 ......[.. 149 For representative years '/' X51 By countric?s.. '.'........... 152 Nature of ..[.[[[ ..[[[l]l[[ 145 Production ......[........,.[ 153 Production in United Xingdom 154 Proviso'?. ....145 149 Under paniirraph 380 ' 147 Under paragraph 381 " I49 Rate» of duty. .1 * ] 1 . 145 146 147 Dress goods, iadiea% worsted: ' ' Weave, construction of Yards woven by individual wo-- r-"- , ..III. ..[.[..[[.I Efficiency of individual weavi ,,, Dresser tenders: Country of birth Hourly rates of wages "-""/--"//- T/.'^ls/Joi* 9%,* 99V1 00^ ^^^h&t 950,951 Dressing department. {See Department, employees by.) DrouQfht 1080-1217 1080-1217 1080-1217 950, 951 960,951 In Australia. 492 461 536 488 186 186 186 621 In Uruguay ..l[].[[[l[[]]l Pro\'ision against in Australia Druggets and bockings: Definition Duties on Imports for representative years lllll"'.'.". Duties, compensatory (see also Comi>ensatory duties) **".".*.'."."*!'"' Dutif* on raw wool (see also Rates of duty) : Ad valorem, objection to .' 394 Present system of levying, objections to '"'.]."."] 392 Specific 3gg 39g iPjed tope, cost of making yam from *" '648 Dyehouse chaises in England 794 Dyehouse hands hourly rates of wages ], OSS," 993,' 1666,' 1664, 1005 "-Dj^emg and lini?hing 7gy Dyeing department. (See Department, emx>ioyee8 by.) Dynamite caitridges, use of , to protect aheep 600 INDEX, 1235 E. Earnings. (See Hourly rates of wages.) pag». Earnings in the United States, Lawrence, Providence, and Philadelphia dis- tnctB , *^ 004 East India wools [[ 09 433 Eastern and southeastern Europe. (Sei Country of birtJi of employees.) ' Eastern States, sheep farmmg in 545 Eastern United States, woolgrowing in 353 Efficiency of labor, German worsted-spinning mill 778 Efficiency of machines 1620-1044 Efficiency of weavers, American method of coinpiita'tio'n '.'.".'.".* 1047-1048 By establishment*. 1049, 1050, 1053, lOo^" 1655, 1056, 1057 By kinds of material woven loSOff By picks per inch ".'.V. V.V. V 1053, lo'si', YosK 1056, 1057 £yf^^-%--;; 1053,1054,1055,1056,1057,1058 SrS ''^/^^'^r- -..--1049^1057 By specified fabnc 1059, 1060, 1061, lOSOff Opinions of manufacturers concerning 1065-1075 Production per 10 hours on specified fabrics 1061-1065 By individuals ;^QgQfj Egypt, wool from 3*3* 3^ 435 Electncians, hourly rates of wages ] " 936," 993, 1000, 1001 Jl.mployees m mills investigated : » » i Nativitv^ ^^^' 958,959,960,961 m^hl 956,957,959,971,972 n-^^^^fn;; 949,985,986,987,988,989,98^995 Occupation 950, 951, 952, 953, 956, 985-995, 998-1006 ^^^ -•- 950,951,952,953,955,956,958,961 . 963, 96G, 974, 975, 976, 977, 978, 979, 980, 981, 99(K995, 998-l(^'io05 ■ Time m industry 962, 964, 969, 970, 971, 972, 975, 976, 979, 981 IZl ]^ "'''"•-:.■ 963, 964, 965, 967, 968, 971, 973, 975 977 979 980 Time m occupation 967, 968, 969, 970, 972, 974, 975, 978 980 981 England (see also Great Britain, United Kingdom) : ' ' Cost of maintaining sheep in 453 Cost of sheep raisins in «;S Land rents and values in 07^ Place of make of— ^ Carding machines 1023,1025,1042 Dmwing frames 1032 1033 1042 f^'^^^^""^' 1027 1029 1042 Mules. 1042 Noble combs lO'^? 1042 Scouring machines jq^i -^q^^ Spinning frames.. ... '.'..'..'.'.'.'.:::'.[:::": 1035; 1042 (See also C ountry of birth of employees.) English charge for combing ^4-. English fleece wools, shrinkage of " .' ooq English wools r. :.:;•: m Eug ish system. (See Bradford system.) English wools 35 og Entre Rios, sheep raising in 593 Equipment, investment in Western United States.* 334 Estancia, description of, in Argentina 599 t^on Description of, in Uruguay • " '^ Europe, Class III wools in 4J0 Ewes, breed of, in western flocks '.]!].*!.'.'.".".".".'.'.'.' g05 Exiierience of operatives. (See Former industry; Time empioyed in indu-t'rY- lime employed in mill; and Time employed m occiimtion.) ' Exports. (^€6 Tables.) ' ^ Extent of tne investigation g-t g 1236 INDEX, INDEX. 1237 Factory cost of meii*8 clothing gga Fall wool, definition and source 30 Fancy knit goods [[ 160 911 Feed for sheep in Ohio region I........... '355 Feeder sheep and lambe 557 Feeding, winter, in eoiithweet 601 Felt-goods industry in the United States. (See Wool manufkciiiree ') Felt hats. (See Wearing apparel of wool.) Felts not woven: Definition Ig* Imports — Analysis of iqa For representative years jg4 Manufacturing process "";;-;";;;];.'"i63-164 Production jgg Rate of duty on ^-^^ ";;;";"";;;;;;;;:."i55, 164 \\orld commerce 165-166 Fences: Cost of, in Australia 470 Aai Cost of maintaining .".'-";;.";;.".'.';;;;.*.*";;. 482 In Argentina 530 In Australia 478 In New Zealand 507 In Uruguay -.*...[.........* 532 Method of construction in Australia 400 Rabbit-proof .....:'.['.['.[:"" m Sheep-proof 47g Fertilizer, value of y.y.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'k6,373 Filling yam: Color, as affecting piece price to spinners 1017 Kind, as affecting piece price to spinners ioij 1051 Size, as affecting piece price to spinners [['" ' 2019 Fine delaine wool 38 Fines, German weaver 700 Fines, system of ;-.';;::;;;;:::;:'i677 1078 Finishing department. (See Department, employees by.) ' Finishing-machine tenders: Country of birth 952,953 Hourly rates of wages 988,995,999,1004,1005 Kmdofwork 952,953 N»i™»er 952,953 ^. .°f.^ .-: 952,953 I* mishmg waists g24 Flannels for underwear: Compensatory duties 142 Definition 141 Duties on — Under paragraph 378 122 142 Under paragraph 379 136^142 Under paragraph 381 142, 145 Imports — Analysis of I43 For 1911 .............l 143 For representative years ...........'. 144 Production ...........[ 144 Production and exports of flannels and delaines in United Kingdom .' 145 Fleece, method of handling in Australia ; . 343 Flocks, crossbred, number represented * 372 Florida, sheep conditions in 547 Forage costs, comparative 341 Forage furnished to sheep on ranges ...............".*." 597 Fora|^e, increased cost of ....'.'.'.'. 596 Foreign costs, method adopted in securing 630 Foreign machinery: Extent of use of 1042,1043,1044 Reasons for use 1042, 1043, 1044 Foreign wool, grades of 3OO Page. Forest Service, charge for grazing by 593 Former industry of employees: By country of birth 959,960,961 By nativity 953 By sex. ^' .'.';.'.*.*".*.*;;;.' "958," 959, 961 Not gainful, at school or at home 958,959,960,961 Other textile industry. 958,959,960,961 Frame spinmng (see also Spmmng): Average count iq^q Average number of spindles per operative 1036 Average twist per inch ..]!!!][[]]!.] 1036 Average wage rates '..!!."!]][!.] 1036 Labor cost per pound l"l[][[[[][[[ 1036 Number of frames ..[.[]..[[["[ 1035 Number of operatives """[["[[ 1035 Number of spindles I ....[][[ .[.[[[[ 1035 Productive efllciency 1036 France: Class III wools in 420 Comparison with leading manufacturing countries "[[ 255 Costs in 373 Place of make of — Drawing frames 1033 French combs 1029 Gill boxes l.[.[[[].[[.[[['. 1029 Mules 1033 Scouring machines .....'. 1021 (See also Country of birth of employees.) Production of mutton in 374 W^ool manufactures. (See Wool manufactures.) Freight, on mutton from Australia 472 Freight rates in New Zealand .'..........".'* 508 Freights, rail and ocean, on raw wools ] '351 352 French combing in the United States ' 643 French drawing (see also Drawing — French system) "!!].".]' HO French combs: Number 1Q29 Place of make.. ;.";;;;;;;;;;;;.';"i629, 1042 Years in operation 1029,1042 French wool 43 Frozen mutton in Australia 471 472 G. Geelong wool 453 General labor department. (See Department, employees by, and Mechaiii'cai and general department.) Georgia, Province of, Class III wools in 41 425 Georgia, sheep conditions in ' 547 German and American cloth-manufacturing costs ] " 594 German weavers' efficiency tests 750 Germany: Class III wools in 421 Comparison with leading manufacturing countries [ 255 Costs in wool growing ....'. 373 Mutton and wool production in ][ 375 Place of make of — Carding machines io23 Drawing frames ['[ io33 I'rench combs [[[[ io29 Gill boxes ['[ io29 Ix)oms 1042 Scouring machines 1021 Spinning frames ]][ 1035 Mules 1038 1040 (See also Country of birth of employees.) "Wool manufactures. (See Wool manufactures in Germany.) 32080°— H. Doc. 342, 62-2, vol 2 40 12S8 INDEX. INDEX/ 1239 Gill-box tenders: ^••*' Country of birth 95^ 052 Hourly rates of wages "**';!*r986^9W*99i,"994* 998, 1002 5 umtx^ 950, 951 Gfflboi'e^? ^^»^^^ Number JQ07 Place of make ^"--■-'- ^" -'--.*'".■-*". ■*io27;i629, 1042 Years m operation 1027,1029,1^12 Gloves: ' Ladies* ooa Mens o>4n Goats: »^^ . ^"f^ 40,611 : C ashmere 4q Number of, in Cape of Good Hope, 1910.' ....."......[.""..[.. 209 Goods sold below regular prices " ioyg 1079 Grasses of Umi?uay * ma r% ■ 1 1 V ^if, , Oiyx Grazing lands in West kqk Greasy wool 35 Great' Britain: Cost of sheep manaj^ement in 450-456 Sheep fodder in 452 Greece, Class 1 1 1 wool in .11^^^..... .,...] .[[[[[[ 422 H. Definition and classification 29 38 41 Distinction between wool and hair *.**]].'*.'*..''...' ' 30 Camel's hair — Countries of production 55 Duty on — Scoured '. _ 45 47 53 Under proviso clause .*]....'...' '48 Waehea and unwashed ] ] ] 53 World's commerce ..,/.. 59-^ CameFs hair, Russian — Classification 41 425 Duty on — Scoured 47 5^ Washels of 433 Indiana, industry in, investigated ." . ." 949 Ind iana, sheep farming in , ....]... 560 Inefficiency of employees in mills, causes 963 Information sought in clothing inquiry 354 Inspectors or examiners: Country of birth 952 953 Hourly rates of wages .' .* ." *988,'992*995,"999'io04, io05 ^^^^"^ - -. 952,953 Work of.:;;;;.;;;;;:.;:: ^^^hml Interest:, ^^^^ Not included in cost of production of wool 313 Kate of, in South Africa ; ; ; ; gj^g Investment in sheep industry: Comparative 033 Income on 1 ;:;::;::; 313 Per head of sheep, how determined :;;;;;; 313 Invisible waste or shrinkage of tops. 624 Iowa: Dogs and wolves in 5gg Shearing in,... ::;;::::;::::::::::;; 568 bheep farmm§: m 554 5^7 Size of fanns in ' ggg Ireland. (See Ireland, Scotland, and Wales and Coiintiy oVbirth of'employees;) Ireland, Scotland, and Wales. (-S«;fi Country of birth of employees.) Class III wool in 400 Wool manufactures of :::::::: 255 (See also Country of birth of employees.) J. Jaffa wool 42 431 Japan, wool manufactures of .......'.'.'.'. '. '. '. '. '. '. '. [ l ' 255 Jomers, hourly rates of wages :::::::: 987 991 jesseimere wool ::::::::::::::: * 434 joria wool ::::::::::::::::::::: 42 433 Juvenile sweater coats ::::]:::::::::::::::::::::. * 934 Kaffir herders, Drovisions for 514 Kaffirs, wages of ri? Kandahar wool aq aqo Kansas: ^^'^^^ . Breeds of sheep in gyg Dogs in....... :.:::::::::::::::: ::::::"58o,589 iSheep farmmg in ' gyg Karadi wool ::::::::::: 4'>'4^] "4^2 4^0 Karawan sheep qq INDEX. 1241 Kasanwool .- ^' Kashgar wools :.::::: lo* too Kassapbatchia wool to ft Keiat wools ::::::: Ai Kemp, description of ^f ^ Kentucky: ^^"^ Cost of keeping ewe and lamb Kon Grades of wool :.:::: ^jV Parasites in sheep ::::::: con Sheep farming in :::::::: Koo Western sheep in ::::::::::::: 500 W^oolen and worsted industries in, investigated : qJq Kevergick sheep ^^ Khorassan wool : . : * : 42 41^ 49« Knit fabrics, not wearing apparel: ' ' Dutieson t„« ,^- Imports— i^^,wi Analysis of ,«-, For 1911 :::::::::::::: iti For representative years ^ ::::::: iqo By countries :::::::::::: 132 Manufacturing process ::::::::: iQi Knit goods, cost of selling and distribution :; nio Knit skirts, ladies' ;:::::: 931 Knitting processes for different garments qi i Kuban wool :::::::: 41 424 Labor in sheep raising: Cost of — Comparative ooq In Australia ^o^ f q? In New Zealand '^ In South Africa :::::::::: ^i Increased in the West cqf Efficiency of, in South America : 2 ^J Difficulties in Australia aqkI In South Africa ™75 In Uruguay :;" ^i^ In western United States ^ Miscellaneous ?J? Negro, in South Africa iH Number of herders employed in South Africa; :::::: 514 Number of men employed in western United States . . ^qS Scarcity of, in Australia ^^X Union rates for, in Australia :: 40? Labor costs in wool manufactures: By departments 1021-1041 By processes in German worsted spinning mVuV.*. 770 Labor and conversion costs, comparative, from yarn to finished ' ciotli; of American fabrics ' ^q„ Per pound of tops in United States '..'..'. ^i Ladies' gloves ™ Ladies' hats, caps, and hoods ::::::: qH Ladies' hose ^^ Ladies' knit skirts.....'..'.".".'."..:: : ™ Ladies' scarfs and shawls ....::::: qii Ladies' sweater coats ^^ Ladies' sweater vests : ^^j: Lambing: ^^ In Nebraska In Northwest 2°f In Southwest :.:::::::: ^ In Tennessee ^j: In Uruguay ^°l Scarcity of water for llllllli::::::]:: ?Sq 1242 Lambiiifr time: INDEX* Page. Extra men for ., 341 In southern California '..'.'..'.]'... 603 Protection during !.!..- 600 Lambing, witliin fence:' ""II .].[[[[[ 603 Lamb loesea ...."". 598 Lambs: Average price per ix>und in Chicago market 348 Feeders 557 Hothouse 550 Increase of 599 Increase of, in Australia 487 Protection of at lambing time ][ 600 Spring, raising in Tennessee ....."....". 5$^o Origfn 5 Cl^ n rwYoTs^^"^ ^^^^""^ ^^"^""^ ^^ ^^^""^^ ""^ *^^ "^^"^ ^^"^ ' ' ^PP" ^03 Market.^fluctuations in wool".'.".'.". ^PP' ^J^ "Markingup,"lossesfrom, of lambs ".'.'.'. fA Maiyland, sheep conditions in ^^ Massachusetts, industry in, investigated '.. q!q Mechanical and general department ."-".'.■;."."."." '989'993*9q5 1004 1244 INDEX. Mechanical equipment of mills: Tnge, Carpet and rug mills in the United States 233 Hosiery and knit-goods mills in the I'liited States 238 ShcKldy mills in the United States 216 Woolen mills in the United States 228 Wool manufactures in France 254 W^ool manufactiu-es in Germany. 250 Wool manufactiures in United Kingdom 244 Worsted mills in the United States 222 Menders: Country of birth 952, 953 Hourly rates of wages 988, 995, 999, 1001 Imjportance of work 1003, 1075 Nativity 956 Number 952, 953, 954 Proportion of 1075 Sex 952, 953, 956 Mending. (See Burling and mending.) Men's bathing suits 920 Men's clothing: Analysis of coats of 856, 864 Cloth cost in 861 Factory cost 863 Men's garments: Costs traced from wool to wearer 883 Specimen, manufacturing cost of 864 Men's gloves 940 Men's half hose 942 Men's sweater coats 913 Merino blood, defined 32 Merino sheep: Mexican 606 Origin and history 31, 32 Percentage of, in Australia 348 Per cent of, in western flocks 348 Merino wool 31,32 "Merino" yam Ill Merv wool 42, 427 Mesopotamia, wools from 432 Message of the President transmitting report 3 Mestiza, Metz, and Metis wool, defined 32 Af ethod adopted in securing foreign costs 630 Methods of securing data 949, 984, 1006, 1078 Method of inquiry into cost of manufacture 626 Methods of presentation of data of the clothing induetry 854 Michigan: " Sheep farming in 549 Industry in, investigated 949 Middle Atlantic States, sheep farming in 546 Middle West, feeder eheep and lambs in 557 Middle Western States, sheep farming in 545,551 Mills Investigated: Number 949 Location 949 Mills investigated in this country, range in size, and number of employees 619 Mills, number of woolen and worsted, in the United States, from which informa- tion was secured 620 Minnesota: Average wool clip for 584 Cost of keeping sheep in , 584 Cost of producing crops in 585 Pastures of 586 « Sheep farming in 583 Western sheep in 583 Miscellaneous costs in United States 599 Misses' sweaters and sweater coats 932 Mississippi, sheep conditions in 547 INDfiX. 1245 . Missouri: _ Page. Breeding of sheep in 575 Drawbacks to sheep business in '"!!!!!! 578 Pastures of ..l............. 577 Plan of handling sheep in 576 Shearing in gy^ Sheep farming in -'.'.".'-".■.'.■;;;.":;::.*:::::;;::::::"554,575 Western sheep in... 556,576 578 Mittens, ladies' and men 8 933 Mixing classes of wool, shoddy, ete. , proviso of] '. . ...V.". -.'.'.'.'.'.'.'* 50 Mohair (see also Hair) : Amount of domestic, used qii Amount of imported, used I" .".[[[[]]]][[] ' ' * 611 Definition and classification 38 40 Demand for American 612 Length of staple.... ;";!;];;;;;";;;;;;;;'6i2-6i3 Pounds sheared per head qi^ Production in the United States ..".... 609 Quality of American 613 Shrinlcage of !.]...]!"]]" 612 Sources of ..*!!]]]]"]!.! 1 * 611 Uses of ll[][[[[[[[[[[[[ ] 612 Value per pound "".".."!]".]]]. 613 Yarns. (SeeYsLms.) Mongolian wool 499 Montana: * Breed of rams and ewes in 606-608 Number of herders required in * 1 "!*!].!."!.!. 1 602 Shearing of sheep in [[l[l][[[[[[[[[ 560 Montevideo, grades of wool in !-"."!*."]"!]]]]]]' 301 Morocco wools '..,.'.'.'.'. 36 436 Mule spinning. (See Spinning.) ' Mimgo and flocks: Defined g^ f^^y- -"'";■;"":"::"::::::::::::: 69,84 ^^^^-. 84 Production 04 Mutton: Angora ^^2 Breeds of sheep for " * ' 347 Consumption of, in United States ..-...*."].........'.] 344 Export of frozen from Australia ] 473 Freight on, from Australia !..........'" 472 Importance of 343 Importance of in South America 347 Receipts from 344 Mutton breeds, per cent of. in western United States . . . . . . . * . . . . . .' .........'. 348 N. National forests, use of gni qqa Nativity of employees: ' By department 957 Former industry ........'.'.'..... 959 Occupation ."'.*]]...".."........".. 95^ ^GX g5g Time in industry 071 Time in mill [][[["]][][[[[[[[ 971 Time in occupation ......"]."..."]"." 972 (See also Country of birth of employees.) Navajo sheep ^^^ Navajo wool 4-14 Nebraska: Cost of producing crops in 500 Pastures of .........[[ 533 Sheep farming in [."[[[[[][]] sgn Weignt of fleece .......[...[. 500 Western sheep and lambs in i -" ^" - i . ^ ! ! ! ^ . i . * ! ] i ] 531 1240' INDEX. Negroes, labor of, in South Africa ^**^ Nevada, breed oi rams and ewes in ™ ^l^ New England, Bbeep conditiona in '.['. 'r?r New Hampehire, industry in, investicrated . r^a NewJer8ej,mdu3tr}- in, investigated " Xm New Mexico: 949 Antia uity of sheep raising in „^, Breed of ramaancf ewes in '.'M'.'.'.'.'.] f^lii^/infi fiA7 Number of men required wo--ingcapacitv of lands for sheep.;. .'"."." ^2 Character of laud ^^ Classes and prices of wool. . . .[.][[[. ^^| Comparative costs, summan' of. . . o?n Conditions in * ^'^^ Costs in 501 Cost of labor in *.'.'.'.'.".'.".'.'.' .W ." ^^ Cost of maintenance in 507 Cost of miscellaneous items 506 Cost of production in .".'*.'.' 508 Cost of ram service 507 Biseases of sheep in ..[..][.[ ^^ First sheep in ""* Freight rates on wool ^ Future of wool industry 5^ General conditions ' 509 .Grades of wool ^ -..'.'.* ^06 Grasses of " . " " ^ ^^ Haulage and freight. ^ Increase of sheep in 508 Net charge against wool in ^^5 Number of sheep in ^ Paddock system of ^y^ Profita of wool industry in '.'.'.'.'.'. 5?! Sales of sheep and mutton f JJ^ Sheep industry. (See Sheep industry. ) ^"^ feheep losses and depreciation. '. ^n^ Size of flocks in 504 Taxation in 503 Value of flocks in 502 Value of improvements on'lands.V.'. ".'.'"." fSl Value of rams ^"" New Zealand wool: 508 Method of packing Net charge aErainst f^ Nip or Lister comb. ." .' f^ Noble combs: ^"5 Defined. Number ][[] ^^5 Place of make. :xky ???! Noi^^.^"^''"" ■■•"■■■■■■;;•";-■;:■■■■;■■:;-":."::::::;;::: i^;lw2 Carbonized Commerce for leading countries.*.'.'.'.*. ..'. h.^!; Definition '""' ' Duty on " • English and American cias'sificatio'ii .'.'.".'.'. ^^' !f 1 rom recombing i, ' Illustration Zx 73 INDEX. 1247 Noils— Continued. Page. Imports — Analysisof » By countries „_ '^ For representative years -k Price quotations of — '^ In England ^. In Philadelphia .']].' it Production '" • ^* North Carolina, sheep conditions in .....*. . " f^j Northwest 647 Equipment required for tif\2 132 Page. Poisonous plants, losses from * 593 Port Phillip wool .''*.*.*"'**'.''".'*... 35 Portugal, Class III wools in 419 Predatory animals: Bounties for killing 598 In South Africa 513 Losses from .'.'..I'.'.'...]]'.'.'.'."'. 598 Premiums, paid to weavers. joiO Preparatory processes, waste in ][[[ 624 Pre\doua exjyerience. (See Former industry of employees.) Price quotations of wool, tops, yarns, etc.: Alpaca, mohair, and cashmere in England 41 American wools in Boston .[[.[[[[l 36 Aiigentina Lincoln wcols in England [, 40 Australasian wools in London " 34 English wools in England [[ 39 Foreign wools in England [] 213 Gametted waste and laps in England *] 68 Noils in England 74 Noils in Philadelphia, Pa ]* 74 Rags, American, m Dewsbury, England gl Rags in Dewsbury, England 82 Rags in United States ,[ 80 Shoddies in England 71 Shoddies in United States [,[ 70 South African wools in London 35 South American wools in London 34 Third-class wools in London 44 Tops in England ] 106 Worsted and hair yarns in England 114 Worsted thread waste in England 77 Prices of wool and mutton for 1909-10 [ 376 Problem of arriving at cost 626 Production of hair: Mohair in South Africa 55 Mohair and goat hair in United States, 1909 56 Production of manufactures of wool: France — Tops 254 Woolen yarns 118, 254 Worsted yarns .'..'. 120,' 254 Germany — Carded woolen fabrics 252 Carded woolen yarn 252 Shoddy ].;; 252 Tops... 261 Worsted yam 251 Japan — Flannel 255 Mousseline delaine 255 Rugs and shawls 255 Wool blankets 255 Wool cloth * 255 Wool serge 255 United Kingdom- Blankets 141 Carpets [ 174 Dress goods 154 Flannels and delaines 145 Mohair and alpaca yarns 12I Shoddy [ 72 Small wares ,[ igg Total output for 1907 ]] 246 Woolen and worsted tissues, excluding dress goods 129 Woolen yarns [ jjg Worsted yams [[[ 12D 1250 IIf,DKX. INDEX. 1251 Pnxiuction of manufactures of wool— Coutiuued. Pace. United Statea — All-wool and cotton-warp carriage mbea and cloths 136 231 All-wool woven goods '.'.'.'.'" 224 230 All-woreted fabrics for men's wear " ' 127 Blankets. .....'.].. ^ 140230 231 Cotton-mixed and cotton- warp woven goods '. T * 225 Cotton-mixed woven goods .l][[[[] 231 [ Cotton-mixed woven goods for men's wi'u. r 128 Cotton-warp woven goods 231 Dress goods "['.'.'.[['.Ill 153 Felt goods 265 Flannels for underwear 1 44 ocm 901 ose and naif hose 159 Knit fancies ll[[[[".".' Kjl Knit underwear ia^-lGO Men's clothing -^^ ;;;;;;;;;];.**iG2-iG3, 241 -Noils 'jQ Shoddy [[.[[[[[[['.'.[['.[[[[[[['" 72 Tops and slubbings [.[.[[[[[[ io7-108 Women's clothing ....*....]* 1G3 242 Wool-felt hats [[[[[[[[[[[[lllll . . ' 157 Wool-filled woven goods for men s wear llllllllllll 129 Wool waste llllllllll 78 Woolen yams [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[ 117 Worsted yams [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[I 119 Worsted-filled woven goods for men "s \vc:ir [[ 127 Production of raw W(X)1 : Argentina, 1010 209 Australia, 1909 205 British South Africa, 1908-1910 [[. 2O8 Leading countries, 1900-1910 66 , New Zealand, 1909 207 - IJnited States — \ Exclusive of pulled wool, 1890-1911 205 \ By States, 1910 " " * G4-65 1 Washed and unwashed, 1890-1910 g4 Uruguay, 1910 [ 209 Profits, in New Zealand 509 Proportion of industry in mills investigated 949 Providence, R. I.: , Industrial depressions in •, _ 9g2 Mobility of labor in l. lllll... II 982 Provisions: Cost of — In Australia 4g4 In New Zealand ..lllll I .' 507 In South Africa V.lV.lllllllllV"SS.^. 514 ' In South America. ..ll.l.lllllllV.l 540 Increased cost of IIIIII.V..I.S/S. I 594 ' List of "[ ': 595 Pulled wool : Definition gO Process of pullinn- aa-e.i Production g2 Pure-bred sheep in Argentina 1 529 Pyrenean wool 1 43 420 Queensland: Lands in 474 Percentage of merino sheep in lllllllllllll 348' R. Rabbits, destruction of Australian.. , 479 Rags, woolen: Collection of 79 Commerce for leading countries llllllllll 83 11 ' RagM, woolen — Continued. Pase. Definition ^g Exports llllllllllllllllllll 82 Imports, analysis of ] go New -clip business. " " " ] gn Price quotations — American and other rags i:i England 01 In United States ...Ill gn Rate of duty lllllll 69 8*^ Railways, building of, in Australia 49J Bambouillet sheep ;;;;-"3i,'354;537,547 In Argentina ' 529 In South Africa ki 2 In Uruguay [[[[[lllllllllllllllllllZl 537 Rams: Breed of, in western flocks qq^ Cost of service in New Zealand lll.lllll 508 Range in size of cloth-making mills lllllllllllll C19 Range in size of mills investigated in this country l.llllll (J19 Ranges, carrying capacity in Southwest for sheep fioi Ratesof duty, act of 1909: ^^^^^ 136-137 ^ocking^ ^QQ Carpets — l^busso^ 174 175 ^°f*^^ 174 175 Brussels 17^' -.^^ Chenille 174 17^ Jf^^^^; 181 182 Moquette 17^' , y^ Not specially provided for . * -igy Saxony llllllllllllH {jq yj^f Tapestry brussels and velvet T'o' i an Tournay velvet i-rp \^ VJiWan i^i^, in Cloth, woolen and worsted 199 lii Dress goods ' --".■.'.■-■.".:■.;::'.:::: utut Druggets ^^^]ll Felts ^^^ Flannels y^ lor i5o Hair- 122,136,142 Camel's, Class II — * Scoured 45 47 k^ Washed and unwashed ..."..". ' co Mohair, alpaca, and other like hair — Scoured 4^; 47 ko Washed and unwashed .'.".".' 51 S^ Russian camel's hair — ' Scoured 47 57 Washed and unwashed .* . ' ' 'Si Hard wastes I. llllllllllll ' 69 77 Knit fabrics, not wearing apparel ----."]]" i22 131 Manufactures of wool not specially provided for ] 122' 1S4 Mats, rugs for floor, etc ' itl :^^i^f 69 75 Plushes and pile fabrics * '192132 g^'^^l^n -------.;'-""";.'. .^69,82 i3% 183,184 Shoddy A 7, Slubbing ; 109 110 Small wares of wool igg* -.^^ Soft wastes 1 .1 .llllllllll 67 68 ^^ps 204 107 Wearing apparel .".'.".*.'.* ' 155 1^52 nq-DEx. Rates of duty, act of 1909~Coiitiniied. «._ Wool — ^**** Carbonked Carded 109,110 Class I— 109,110 Scoured -. Unwashed 45, 47 Washed 51 ClassII— 45,47 Scoured Washed and unwashed. .'.V.'.'.;.".*." ;= f5*H Class in— 45,47.53 Scoured Washed and unwashed.... -: 45,47 Skirted 4o,47.56 Sorted ' 48 Wool extract 48 Wool on the skin '.'*. 69,71 Yams .;;;;; co,6i Rates of wages. {See Hourly rate's of waces ) ^^^' ^^^ ^^^Jt^^^^^ ^? 7^^ manufactures of United States: ^i?^t«iief matenals consumed, 1870-1910. . Competition between woolen and worated industries'. SI Consumption of— 86 Animal hair Cotton and cotton yarn. !.'..*.".*..'. .' ^2 Raw wool in condition purchased.. ';"*.* ^q Shoddy 88 Wool waste and noils ^2 Woolenrags 91 Effect of— 92 Duties on noils and wastes Duty on greasy wool V.'.V.'. ?! Dutvonshoddy ' oo No double duty on washed 'cYa^s 'll wtoIs*. '.'. 11 Tnple duty on scoured wool °9 Effect of fashion in— 90 England l^rance oo United States ^6 Materials used by 'viriourbranche's'. '.;;.'." ^®'fj Use of cotton in — 95 Hosiery and knit-goods industry q^ Woolen and worsted industry.... «X Ready-made clothing 93 Output '.'...'.'.v.. ^^ Women's ^46 Receipts: 892 Average from wool Comparative ^^ From flock ."....].. ^**2 From sheep ....]... ^1^ Per head, m— 311 Australia South America * **.' f49 Western United States jf9 Recoverable value of the wastes in weaving.".;.*;;;;. If. Kelation of cloth cost to total cost of women 's clothing ;;;;;:; S^f Relation of cost of c oth to cost of clothing ^ kj^f^ Relative net mill prices of English cloths and similar Ame'riraii" fabrics 7^ ' Relative pncea of cloths, English and American, . . . _ ^"^*"^ ^^^^"^'^ ^04 Kelative standing of States '04 Rent of Highland farms ^04 S^^^^jf"^^''?^^'''^^^*^^^'^^^^^*^*^^^^^^ ^aJ Rhode Island, industiy m, investigated..... ^ lOTEx. 1253 Rio N^fro: Sheep raising in I*a««. Woolof 521 River Plate, wools, shrinkage of 521 Romney Marsh sheep 384 Roving, weight of .';7;. 38,446,501,537 Rugs: 623 Classification Duties on 183 . Exports from the Ottoman 'Empire*,* by countries "^^^' 1^^ Imports for repreoentative years ^""^^ries ^gg Production / 185 Russia, wool manufactures'.'. ] 185 Russian camel's hair 255 Russian wool 41,43,426 Shrinkage of ;;;;;; 35,41,423 424 s. Sales of wool in London, etc Savolga wool 520 Saxon merino sheep ;; 4Q, 424 Scab: 3x In Argentina In New Zealand 524 In Uruguay '\ 504 In South Africa 536 Scarfs and shawls... 513 ^.quipmentand maintenance, woolen mill Equipment and maintenance, worsted mill ^38 General expense 039 General iuformation... G36 JayroU G31 Total production G37 Top making ;;; 637 Woolen-cloth making 631 Woolen-yarn making 635 Worsted-cloth making. 634 VVorsted-yarn making....;; 633 bcope and method of clothing inquirv ^32 Scotch black-faced, or Highland wool.'. 852 7^L)^''' '"^"^'' '^^*^^^' --^'^^ai;;;'a;id Country of-bi;d^-of^: ''' Scoured wool, duty on... Scouring: 45,396 Definition Methods of ;;; 45,46 Process of 46 Scouring department, operatives'in 46 Country of birth Hourly rates of wages.*.*.'. ] ; * 950, 951 Number 985,990 Productive efficiency".'.*..' 950, 951 Sex 1022 Scouring machines: 950, 951 Number Number of bo'wlV.". '. .* 1020, 1021 Number of operatives. . . 1020 Place of make 1020 Productive efficiency.*.".; 1021,1042 Years in operation 1022 Seconds, proportion of ;.';;;." 1021, 1042 . 320S0°-H. Doc. 342, 62-2, voi 2^1^41 1078-1079 1264 INDEX. Serge: Fancy and plain- Weave, construction of 1080-1217 iMda woven by individual weavera .......,,,.... 1080-1217 ^ Efficiency of individual weavers . 1080-1217 Sowing. (See Burling and mending.) Sex ofemployees: By country of birth 950 051, 952, 953 955, 956, 958, 961, 963, 966, 974, 975,"976;977;978,'979,*980, 981 By department m which employed 950, 951, 952, 953. 996, 997 By former mdustry 958,959 961 By nativity ' 95g By occui)ation 950," 95i" 952,* 953, 956 By tame m industry 902, 975, 976, 979, 981 BytimeinniilL... 963,975,977,979,980 By time inoccupation 966,975,978,980 981 Efficiency of weavers by 1053-i057 onawls . (JS ee vv eanng apparel . ) Shawls and scarfs q^ Shearers, wages in Australia 405 Shearing: CMt'^f— '''^''^ 485,594 In Auatmlia. 333 483-489 In boutn America ggg In South Africa .!.."...*.'... 513 In United States .1..... 333 In Australia, method of handling fleeces V... .[....["[" ."]]].', 337-338 In Iowa "' ego In Illinois '.'......[... 565 In Missouri ......".[..... 577 In Montana. 560 In Tennessee ^gj In Uruguay I ^llllll"'.".:" "[[["[[[ 535 In v\ isconsm 573 Semiyearly f-no Sheep: ' ^^^ American merino 31,353,548,552 Blackface [ 38 444 Breeds of— ' In Argentina 524_528 In Oreat Britain 443-449 In Illinow •..............[...... 564 In Kansas /...../.. 579 In Uruguay ."....'!.... 537 Breeding of, weaterii range II.. [].[[[[ 004 Cabretta '" 3q Cheviot. .........................38 444 Cost of maintaining in England * * * ' 453 Cotswold 38 445 9[^**^lf-; --'-'". '-'*.* '32, 42,' 524 Crosebreds \q aaa Delaines gj 54^ Dishley Merino !"'.."......!..]] ' 445 ^"^^ -.-;';.'.*!; '-"7449," 546, 549 H^^° - : *. 32, 446, 546 Hampshire 38,447,448,549,552 Karawan '33 Keveigick 1 .."'!..! ." 33 Leicester T. " ! ". '. ] '. 32,* 38," 445, 462 Xfincoin 32 sa 445 fYQ7 Lincoln-Rambouillet ' ' '33 Longwoola * - * - - - 1 - ! ." 1 . " ] 1 ! 1 ! ." ] 1 ] " ! ! ! ] " 445 Louses of . (•See Losses in sheep raising.) Merino. 31 32 Number of. {Set Sheep industry.) ' Humber of, in specified coimtries not separately discussed 211 INDEX. 1255 Sheep — Continued. Oxford Down „o on ^^* ..™ ^'*** Peruvian *.....'.'.''**" 38-39,447,448,549,552 Rambouillct •- 33 Eomney 31,854,537,547 Romney-Marsh *"".'.".".".".".'." 32,446,501,537 Saxon Merino 38 shippingof,in\ve8t....v.;;;;;;'" 31, 462 Shropshire 'qo'oo":::*::^":;:.:-- ^^ Spanish Merino :..:;;;;; 32,38,444,448,637,549,552 South Down ** 31,33 Suffolk Down ".'.;.* .'."."'.'.■.■ 447,462,537 Sheep farming in: 447 Eastern States Illinois ''''^'""". 545 Indiana 562 Iowa " " ' 560 Kansas 567 Kentucky \ 579 Middle Atlantic States, ^88 Middle Western States ".. - ^ f46 Minnesota 545, 551 Missouri 583 Nebraska ^75 Southern States. . . ■ - 580 Tennessee .".'.*.".'.*.' ^45, 547 Wisconsin 58G Sheep industry in : 570 Australia — American demand for wool . „q Character and cost of labor ;qq ^of Classification, by area of holdings ." 'onS CLossification, by States and size of flocks. on- Comparative costs by countries. {Se€ Costs in' w,;^! 'griwinV ) Distribution and breeds of sheep. ^"'^"lo-; Division and cost of fences... ^-vIoT Diseases, nature of ^' ^» 481 Future of the industry...."..".'.'.".'.'. •* ^^^ General review 490 Influence of climate :^„ ^^^ Land taxation ."■ 462, 46a Maiket prices 476 Number of sheep. . 467 Paddock system.... ".;.'; 205,305,492 Pastoral lands 477 Production and export of wool.'.'.'.'.", ".i .'.".'.' .'^ ^ .' 90^ 'hWi "acp f q? Rents of leaseholds -it^o, 207, 466, 493 Returns from the industry.'.'.*.'.' ^^^ Surplus stock and the mut'ton'trade" f?? Tenures 471 Working cost 475 British South Africa— 488 Comparative statements of general costa qQo.Qr:o Distribution of sheep d^d-352 General review. . 208 Number of slieei., by'subdivisioM; 'ii* igio: .' ^ - - - • 306, 509-515 Production of wool. ^^ NewZealand— 208 Average size of flocks By breeds, 1911 207,503 Comparative statements of general costs*.'.".". ;.'.'.* ^qq ??? Distribution and breeds " " " * AW-352 Future of the industry 207 General conditions .' '..*.".* * 509 General review \\ 601-609 N umber of sheep. ..".'.".*..'.. 306 Number and size of flocks... .. ,' 207 Production of wool 207 207 1256 IITOEX. Sheep industry in — Cbntinued. South America— Comi)arative costa by countries. (-Sec Costs in wool growing.) Distribution and breeds of sheep 209-210, 528, 537 General conditions '519-541 General review ..,.. 305 IJuinber of sheep in Argentina, by provinces, 1908 ..".![" 210 Number of sheep in Argentina, by breeds, 1908 210 -" Total investment in sheep in Uruguay [ 540 Wool produced [[ 209 United Kingdom — Comparison with United States 199 Cost of sheep management 450-656 Number of sheep and lambs, 1910 ' . . 199 Size, etc '." 200 Types of sheep, description of 443.449 United States- Classification of sheep by ranch and farm States — Chart of 201 Table of 200 Comparison of leading States in number of sheep — Diagram of 304 Table of 305 Comparison with United Kingdom 199 Competition with foreign wools 301 General review I95 Grades of wool 299-300 Number of sheep by States, 1860-1910 196 Number of sheep and lambs in 1910 198 Phases of 302 Production of wool 204 Sheep farming in the Eastern, Southern, and Middle Western States. 445-590 Sheep ranching in the Western States — Capitalization, equipment and receipts — General comment 308 Charges per pound of wool — Methods of ascertaining 311-313 Tables of..,..* 315-325,327-332 Comparative operating costs by countries — Costs in England , France, and Germany 373-377 Costs in New Zealand 348 Forage 341-342 General and miscellaneous 335-339 Investment 333-335 Labor 339-341 Mutton and its relation to costs 343-348 Receipts 342 Summary of 349-353 Depreciation 310 Expenses of operation 311 General review of 593-616 Losses, nature of 310 Problem of land values 309 Receipts 311 Woolgrowmg in the Eastern States — General comment 353-355 Method of computing costs in Ohio region 355-356 Prod uction of Merino wool , tables of chaiges against wool . 357-367, 368-373 Sheep, investment per head: How determined , 313 In Australia 333 In South America 333 In western United States 333 Sheep ranching in the western United States 591 INDEX. 1257 Shoddy: Commerce for leading countries l®* Definition "3 Duty on shoddy and wool extract.".'.'.'. «« S? Exports '[ 69,71 Grades of shoddy '.'.'.'.'.'.'..'. In Illustration of shoddy .....![ IS Imports 7? Manufacturing process .]....... IJ Price quotations — '^ ^ England *?" United States JJ Production '.'.'....] I? Production in England Jj Shoddy industry in the United States.' * '(s^'Wwi iriiiufa^tiiies ) Dnnnkage: '' Of Australian and South American wools 00^ Of Class III wools 2°| Of fine wools ^ J^ Of foreign clips i°^ Of mohair..... ;:;;; 398 Of wools as related to tari'ffrates.. .'.".!;[][!;; ;i ^sr^R^'-^R^ qqo Specific rate of duty based on '- «i«l-383, 387, 392 Tables showing shrinkages of various wools '.. qooJin Shropshire sheep q9 Qftlia ifn"^ woSr?.!?.^ .f t?!*."^. ^j^'^- -"":-"■■:-■::;::;;;;;;;;;;;;: m,im S kin wool ].*.'.'.'.. aoiAoq Skirting of fleeces, in Australia.* '.!!"' ~^q Skirting of wool ^^^ Slow loom bonus work '''■''-'.'.'''.'.'.'.'.'.'.'..... jin Smyrna wool '.'..'.'.'.'.'.'..'.'.'.'.". ^^?' ^^^ Sno w-whi te wool ..............'.'.[ ^^' ^^^ Socks, lumbermen's ^^ Softwastes: ^43 Definition and classification Dutyon ^7 . Illustration ''"" '!'.''. '."I!"" '^^ Imports, analysis of ^J Price quotations in England S? Sorted wool, duty on "° Sorting of wool : As defined by law Process of '.'.'..'..'. ^^ South Africa (see also British s'oiith 'Africa): ^^ Amount of land in private ownership. . .,^ Character of wool in [[[[ ^^" Cost of maintenance per sheep in'.'. .'.'. .....[ 5}? Cost of labor in sheep industry ^„ Cost of production of wool in ^^] Cost of provisions in .' ] ^jj Cost of shearing in ^|* Droughts in .......'. 5 ^ Exportof Angora goats from X^f Growing of maize m ^j| Investment required for sheep farming.. SJ Lands in, as related to sheep growing.. iii Miscellaneous costs for sheep growing * " ii^ Number of herders employed in.. ii^ Number of sheep in QA«_tio Predatory animals in [ ^^^i o Prices of wool in f Rate of interest in 5}? Rental value of lands in ^ Jx 610 1358 IITDSX. South Africa — Continued. Pagt. Sale of surplus stock and mutton i:i » , , 514 Shearing costs in '..'.........[[,. 513 Sheep diseajses in " ^i^ Sheep industiy. {See Sheep indiir-lry in British South Africa.')' Shrmkaffe of wool 111 _ _ , 334 Size of nocks in .11..... ..[[.[[][[ 512 Value of sheep in ....[.]..] 614 South African wools, classificatio:i ..........[.. 35 53 South America: ' Class III wool of 43g Climatic conditions, influence of, in sheep growing 376 Cost of provisions in ' ...!."...[."* 540 General conditions in the sheep industry llllll. .....] ..][l[[l 519 Improvements and equipment required for sheep growing 335 Investment per head of sheep 333 Number of sheep in [....[[[[[[[ ] 307 Receipts per sheep in .....[.][[[ 349 Shearing cost in .1 .....[.["[[.][] [ 338 Shrinkage of wool in 406-408 wagesin.,..., :::::;;:;;;;::;::;::;;;;::.. 539 Vvoolgrowing m ^u South Carolina, sheep conditions in l"l] ...[.[.][" 547 Spanish merino sheep 31 33 Spanish wool. "" " ";: "! i:"""! :;:::::::;"43,42o special-order clothing 374 Specific duty on scoured ww)l * 39g Specific grease pound rate ba^: ed on shrinkage of wool'.*. ]'" 395 Specimen weekly worsted spinning cost sheets " g46 Speed of loom: Relation of efficiency to ^051 1052 (S€€ also Picks per minute.) ' SpGed of looms : 773 Spindles: Average number per spinner 103C, 1030, 1041 Number of, covered by investigation 619 Numl3er of, in woolen and worsted prills, in specHied countries '.' il7, 256 ^ Number to a mule lOlG-1019 Spinners: Country of birth 950,951,956 Hourly rates of wages — For frame si)inner3 987,991.904,999,1001 For mule spmners 987, 991, 992, 995, 999, 1002, 1003 Nativity ' 95g ^?^^^^' 950,951,954 Piece rates 1016-1019 Q . ^ex . 950, 951, 956 Spinners' wage scales: ' Worsted yam spinning — Germany 775 Belgium .................' 785 Carded woolen yam spinning — ^^^^^^ 780 . . Belgium 785 Spinning: Manufacturing process 111-113 Woolen mule spinning !.!.'.".. ni Worsted mule spinning ..][]..[.. 112 Worsted frame spinning .........[[][[ 113 Spinning department. (See Department, employees by; Frame sTsinningi Woolen mule spinning; and Worsted mule spinning.) Spinning frames: Number of frames jq35 Number of operatives ]035 Number of spindles 1035 Place of make. 1035, 1042 Prr)ductive efficiency ' 1036 Years in operation. .'. 1035 1042 INDEX. 1259 Pftg«. 950, 951, 955 Spooling department. (See Department, employees by.) opooiers . Country of birth. E^y'^.'!'.!!.?^.".-. :::::;•::■•-•■■•■•■■•■••■■•-■-•■• '^^^M-m^-mhm Number " * a: ' * * ^^ Sex ../.'..I. 950,951,954 Spring wool, source and de'finition ! " ' ' ^^' ^^^ Standard eamples of wool *"" States, industry id, investigated: Number List 38 44 949 949 35 Supercombing, defined Supervisory occupations: * By country of birth ..^ ^„ Bydepartment q?X n 7 Proportion of employees iii... ^^' ?5^ Sweater coats: * - • 9o4 Juvenile Ladies' 934 Misses' .'.".'..'.*.;..; 921 Sweater vests, ladies'. . * * ^32 Sjria wool Szechwan wool '. 42 435 Tables: JL • ^^o?AemtK^SL°n^"^^" ""^^ ^ P'^"'^ •""'=^*- "t «ie close By States^ 1909 Comparative summary, 1859-^1909.'.".".'. * ^So Machmery used, 1909 ^"^^ Materials used, 1899 and 1909...* .*.*."**,* ^f? Colonial wools catalogued and actually sold in "LcJndon of? Tr^e^Tstetel! ^!!!'r.^^^^^^^ ^^^"^^ wages 'per-m'ontii',' in "difl ^'^ Compensatory duties on carpets ^"^^ Consumption m United States of— ^^1 Ammal hair of all kinds, 1899 and 1909. ^^ Cotton yam and cotton, 1899 and 1909 ^ Sf^ J*^i tn''''''^^^}SS. P^^ased, 1899 and" 1909.".".'.".". ". o? bnoddy, 1899 and 1909 °^ Waste and noils, 1899 and 1909 ^^ Woolen raps, 1899 and 1909.... ^1 Distribution ofwool sold in principal AusMi^n markets' i? Distribution of wool sold in London colonial sales o?a J^xports from Commonwealth of Australia— ^^^ Mutton and lambs Wool, 1900-1909 ' * 496 Wool, by bales. 493 Exports from United Kingdom of— ^07 Dress goods, 1910 Woolen and worsted cloth,' i9i6. .* ^^^ Wool, reexports of, amount taken by 'United States,' "I'ob'e^ibio .' ." .' .' ." ." J ^^ 1260 IKDEX. INDEX. Tables— ContiBued. Exports from United States of— Tag^, Blankets and flannels of domestic manufacture, by countries, 189^ 1910 1^ Carpets of domestic manufacture, by countries, 189<>-1910 ... 173 Dress goods of domestic manufacture, by countries, 1900-1910 . . 153 Manufactures of wool, all domestic, by countries, 1896-1911 191 Sneep, 1875-1910 jgy Wearing apparel, woolen, of domestic manilfacVurerby countri«, 1896-1911 I c» Wool, raw, of domestic production, by 'countries' 'l896-'l910 ...//.' 63 Felt goods mdustry in United States— -- w By States, 1909 240 Comparative summary, 1889-1909 239 Materials used, 1899 and 1909 240 Goats, number of , in Cape of Good "Hope, 1910* 209 Hosiery and knit-goods mdustry in United States— By States 037 Comparative summary, 1859-1909 936 Machinery used, 1909 2S8 Materials used, 1899 and 1909 .'."!.'.*.'.".";." 238 Importance of the merino blood in flocks in the Western States 343 Imports and exports for leading countries, 1909-10, of— Blankets and traveling rugs 141 CameFahair "' «i Carpets and rugs ^^^^ .1.1........... .....[. 174 Cloth, woolen and worsted iqa Dress goods or stuffs i cV Felt goods .'-'".".'.'."".'.*.*.".*];;;.* 166 Knit fabrics, including hogier>', knit gloves, eic^ ^ .'']''[ ' I6I Mohair, alpaca, and like animal hairs ' kq Noils.. y» Plushes and pile fabrics ......-.'*']].]!!!*] 134 Rags, woolen ] "] go Shoddy and mungo im^l.. .[[[[[[" .1. 73 Small wares, woolen 1 .1 .. .1 . ..[..[. ...].. 1C9 Upholstering fabrics and similar goods. . . ..... '. 136 Waste, wool ya Wearing apparel, woolen * ico Wool, raw '.'..'. .'..'..'. 67 Woolen yam iig Worsted yams l[..[..[[[.[..[.[ 121 Yams made of mohair, alpaca, and like hair ..........[. loj Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of wool for all countries * 257 Imports into leading countries of woolen carpets from Ottoman Empire . 186 Imports into Umted Kingdom of— r - -lou^ Rags, woolen, from the United States, 1906-1911 83 Shoddy, from the United States, 1906-1910 70 Imports into United States of— Blankets — For 1911 23g For representative years 140 Camel's hair of Class II, for representative years 55 Carpets — Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille, for representative years... jjq IJrussels, for representative years '173 Carpetings and mgs, for representative years ' i72-173 Dutch wool and two-ply ingrain, for representative years V. . 182 l*elt, for representative years 137 Not speciany provided for, for representati've years. .* ....'.'.'. ". .' ." " " 187 Saxony, Wilton and Toumay velvet, for representative years 178 Tapestry brussels, for representative yeare ' igQ Treble ingrain, three-ply, and all chain Venetian, for representa- tive years jgg Velvet and tapestry velvet, for representative years . . . . . . . .* .' .* '.'.[ 180 1261 Tables— Continued . Imports into United States of— Continued. Pa-^ ^^^tWeTe^^^""^^' ""^"^^ ^"""^ ''^^^'' *'''*^'' ^^^®ii<«> fo' representa- Cloths, woolen or worsted-^ ^^^ By countries -^- Fori9ii .'.'.'.';";; };? For representative years lit Dress goods — ^^ By countries ^-^ For 1911 ."].'.*.*;.'; ;5? For representative years '.'.*.."..... {tS Druggets and bockings, for representative years.'.*. jofi Felts, not woven, for representative years 12; Flannels for underwear — For 1911 For representative years i^o Hair of Angora goats, alpaca and other like animals, for represe'ntative years Hatsof wool, for representative years... i?? Knit fabrics — ^'^' By countries ,^„ For 191 1 ^^^ J. Ul X«7XX. ,fv^ For representotivo years 1 j 00 Knitted articles, for representative yearV. i co Manufactures of wool — '^ By countries ,qq For representative years *.' " " ™ Mungo, shoddy, noils, wool extract, ra^s,'and waste; by 'countries; foi representative years 7fi Noils, for representative years .'.'.*.". It Plushes and other pile fabrics— Forl911 For representative years jo? Rags and flocks, for representative yeaVsl .* .'.'.*.*. 00 Rags, shoddy, waste, and noils, for representative years'. 904 Rugs-Oriental, Berlin, Aubusson, Axminster, and other 'simiiar* Yo'r representative j^ears ' ^^p, Russian camel's hair, for representative y'e'ars .'.*.*.'. ^q bhawls, kmtted or woven, for representative years i fio Sheen, 1875-1910 ^ j^^ Small w^es of wool and maniifac'tures'orwooi" trimmed "with" small wares, for representative years u w x in email Unspecified manufactures of wool— For 1911 For representative years'. !'.".'.".'.' ". jot Wastes, yarn, thread, and other, 1900-1911 . no Wearing apparel — '** By countries _ „ ^^For representative years *::::::;:;;;::;:;;:::;:;;;:::;;; im \ ^^^^«> 1868-1911 ^ 202 By countries „ ' For 1911 ; ;;;; ^2 For representative years ci ClassII— ^ 51 By countries >. Forl911 - ^ ^* or representative years (exclusiveof hair) .*.'.'.*.".*.'.[].'.* 54 By countries _„ For 1911 !.'.';;.*;;."] tf i For representative years .'.'. ?4 Wool and hair — ^' Advanced beyond the washed or scoured condition, for representa- Total of all classes, for represen'tative'yeais.'. . . '. .' .' .' .' .' .' .* ." .' .* .' ." .* .* .' .* J 63 1262 IISTDEX. Tables — Continued . Imports into United States of— Continued. l»tg«. Wool on the skin, of all ckeaea, for ropwseatativ© yman 62 By countriee X16 For 1911 [...l][l[[] 115 For representative years ],[] ng Local prices of Australian merino wools for 10 years. 494 Looms, number of, in woolen and worsted industries of speciiied countries. . 126 Manufacturing costs; tops, yarn, and clotb — Average rates of wages loc operatives on pressing and drying machines, Germany 799 Average weekly pay in specified occupations in Germany 831 Average weekly wages in the woolen and worated industry in England, by districts and occupations — Averages for weavers, all districts 814 Bradford district 815-817 Halifax district 821-822 Heavv woolen district 820 Huddersfield district ' " ] 818 Keighley district 822 Leeds district...... ." ] .* 819 Cloth finishing, Huddersfield, weekly wages in 794 Cloths woven m English mills, giving description of fabric and weaving rates 724 Comparative rates of pay in representative combing and scouring and top-making establishments in Bradford, England 784 Comparative statement of highest and lowest weekly wages paid in specified occupations in the Philadelphia, Rrovidence, and Law- rence districts 824 Comparative conversion cost of makiog certain counta of worsted yarn from tops 650 Comparative conversion cost from yarn to finished cloth ]*..!*.. C92 Comparative conversion costs from yam to finished cloth on German- made fabrics 704 Comparative conversion and labor cost from yam to finished cloth (American) , 693 Comparison of occupations and earnings in one English and one Ameri- can mill making the same class of goods, baaed on actual pay rolls of the two mills and on a week of 56 nours in each case 827 Conversion cost per pound, with special reference to d*^partment ex- pens© ( tops into yams) 649 Conversion cost from yam to finished cloth, summary 691 Cost of buildings and equipment in United States and England on — Woolen mill.. 706 I*reparing and combing mill [[ 707 Worsted spinning mill 708 Worsted weaving mill 709 Cost per pound of converting tops into medium and high medium worsted yams, as shown from records of efficient mills in the United States, on the basis of full-time production C48 Daily mmimum wages in woolen-yam spinning mills at Venders, liel- gium. 786 Descnption of loom, hours, rates^ and eamingjs of weavers, descrip- tion of cloth woven, and efficiency of looms m woolen and worsted mills in specified districts in Germany 752-757, 758 Efficiency of machinery and operatives and rates of pay to operatives for spinning yams m Huddersfield, Coin© Valley, and Bradford diatncta. ^ 781-784 fiouriy earnings of opo^tives in German woolen and worsted mills' by occupation and sex 832 Hours and rates per hour for dyera in manufacturing and jobbing es- tablishments in Philadelphia, Pa 810 Hours, earnings per hour, and total earnings of weavere and* foremen of weavers, Germany 753 Minimum wage schedule for woolen raw goods in force for miils of the United Sachsische-Thuringischer weaving mills from August 6, 1^11 741-749 iKDKX. 1263 Tables — Continued. Manufacturing costs' topa, yam, and cloth— Continued. Page. ^i^f.f w?^,^^ *^^T^ reporting in specified districts in Germany, rat^s of wages per 1 000 picks, descnption of looms and description of cloths, by distncts ^ ^^r 7'iq Number of male and female employees in finie'hing and dyeing depart- menta of woolen or worsted establishments in the United States receiving specified rates of wages per hour, by occupation. 810 Occupations and rates in dyeing and finishing establishmente iA Kou- baix, 1^ ranee ^^ pccupatwns and weekly full-time Vamiii^'ii; the U^ted'stetes'^d hi Great Britain m the woolen and worsted industry oofi Pressers' wages in nine dyeing and finishing establisWnte in the Gera*- (jrreiz r^ion...* „^ Productive labor per pound (tops into yams)*.'. '..*.'.*.".".' (349 Proportion of pieceworkers and timeworkera in woolen 'and'woreted industry, by districts, in England 004 Rates charged for dyeing cloths in England 794-797 Rates of pay for different kinds of work done by weavers *ii' Aiis'trian establishments ^^r Rates of pay for occupations in the finishing departinents of" Aiis'trian establishments o-^^ Rates of pay for spinners and piecers in specifi^'ctermin'lcicariti'^' " * 778 Kates of pay for time workers m different occupations in Germany * 830 Rates of pay m miscellaneous occupations (Austria). 840 Rates of pay per day for work in the dyehouse (Austria) 836 Rates of wages in specified occupations in dyeing and finiiing ^teb- hshments in the United States, England, France, Germany, and ^xUscria. ••••••..........,,,,,,. Qi o Rates paid dyehouse employ^g'in si^iecified dL^tricts in Engfand .* " " * 793 Relative net mill prices of English cloths and similar American fabrics " 705 focale established between the association of contract weavers of cloths and the textile trade union of Lavelanet, Ariege, and environs France (one-loom system) >"^iia, Slow-loom bonus work and wages paid in Germany. ] * ^rni Showing rates of pay per day for occupations preparatory' to 'spiMi^g (Austria) ° gq_ Spinners' rates for spinning worsted yam (on mules) in establi^hiiient A, at Verviers, Belgium 70- Spinners' wage scales in Germany... .* ..".*.* iSi Time and piece rates jpaid in the yam departments of A'ust^ian mills* 838 lop and noil production from greasy wool in three typical mills. 622 Wage sea e for Crefelds d yemg and finishing establishments . ' " ' 804 Wage scale for wool d yers in Verviers, Belgium . . cXq Wages for time workers in the employ of 25 estabiishmente'b^ioAiin- to the Saxon-Thurmgian Master Dyers' Association. . . sm Wages m 49 d yeing establishments in Crimmitschau, Gen^nv 700 Wages of mule spmners m German worsted -yarn mills 777 Wages for weavers in the woolen and worsted indus'ti-y at' Lu(^ken- walde Germany, dm-ing April, :May, and June, 1911. ... 7fio ^Jw ""t^f v''^ ^^^^ ^^ 1'^ P^^*^«' ^^ ^^^ woolen and worated md ustry of Verviers, Belgium ^ ^f.f. Weaving rat^ per yard and per 1,000 picks on woolen 'and worated cloths woven m EngUsh milla ,, worsiea Weavers' wage scales; ''^'^ -English — Huddersfield ^-,r -rm Cohie Valley ...;: 700 Yerdonand Quiseley *"*." li^ Various ^^^ W^ver/s wages, per 1,000 picks, p^d'hi w^*t^' and w^^iei'mi'llB' at Verviers, Belgium *^ ^ ^^ Weekly wages of finishers, by specified* wciJitioM,* "in 's'l' ^tebli'sli*- ments in Crimmitschau, Germany ^ ' esiaousn \\ ^len and worsts weavers' rates on specified* 'Women ''s' dr^ss 'go'ods* Beauvois-Fontame, France, under «ie two-loom system. . ^ ' 7ni BeU ^^^^ weavers' wages of establishments in- Flanders', ^^^^"^ • 772,773 1264 INDEX. Tables — Continued. Manufacturing costs; tope, yam, and cloth— Continued. Pago. Variations in cost of converting tope into worated yam, accordinc to output _ ^ QMQ Variations in cost of making yam due to quaOity of material and the twist per inch ^^y Variation in the production of top and noil from' greasy wool diie to quality of wool _ g22 Variations in weavers' wages in Geraaany . .'///////////.'.'."'.','.'/,.[' 737-740 Yield of cloth from yam , worsted and woolen 1...... 625 Men's clothing industry in United States, summary, 1909 241 846 Merino and crossbred sales in Australia ' " ' '212 Net charges against wool in representative eastern districts* of" United States. 357—370 372 Net charges against wool in westem United States*. ..*'."'.'.'.*[*'.* 315^329 Percentage distribution of total Australian sales ' "' 495 Price quotations of — Alpaca, mohair, and cashmere in England, 1908-1910 41 American wools in Boston, 1908-1911 [[ 35 Argentina-Lincoln wools in England, 190^1916.*.*.'.*.* . * 40 Australasian wools in London, 1908-1910 34 English wools in England, 1908-1911 39 Foreign wools in England since 1877 213 Gametted waste and laps, 1909-1911 ao Noils in England, 1909-10 74 Noils in Philadelphia, 1910 " " ] ' 74 Rags, American, in England, 1911. ]] gj Rags in Dewsbury, England, 1910-11. eo Rags in United States, 1904-1911 ca Shoddies in Enr^land, 1909-1911 ' . ' ' ji Shoddies in United States, May, 1911 70 South African wools in London, 1908-1910 35 South American wools in London, 1908-1910 04 Tops in England, 1908-1911 jl05 Wools of third class in London, 1908-1910 .,]'. 44 Worsted and hair yarns in England, 1908-1911 114 Worsted thread waste in Enc^land, 1911 77 Production and imports of specified wool products in the United Statues* 1909, and the percent^ige of which each is of the total of the two. . . 190 Production m United States of — All-wool woven ^oods, 1899 and 1909 224 230 All- worsted fabncs for men's wear, 1899 and 1909. ... " ' ior All-wool cloths for men's wear, 1899 and 1909 ' 128 All-wool and cotton- warp carriage robes and cloths, 1899 and 1909 136 Blankets, 1899 and 1909 i\n Carpets- ^^^ Bmssels, 1899 and 1909 1 70 I n grai n , 1 899 an d 1 909 l["ll[[[[[[ 1 33 Machine-made Axminster and moquette, 1899 and i909 176 Tapestry Bmssels, 1899 and 1909 jgi Tapestry velvet and similar carpets, 1899 and 1909 I8I Total production of carpets and rugs, 1899 and 1909. . * 235 Wilton, 1899and 1909 .7. ."."." 179 .Cotton-mixed and cotton-warp woven goods, 1899 and 1909. . ' 225 Cotton-mixed woven goods, 1899 and 1909 * ' 031 Cotton-mixed woven goods for men's wear, 1899 and 1909 128 Cotton-warp woven goods, 1899 and 1909 231 Dressgoods, 1899 and 1909 V^^ Felt g(X)ds, 1899 and 1909 1^ Flannels for underwear, 1^99 and 1909 144 Hose and hah'-hose, 1899 and 1909 1 59 Knit underwear, 1899 and 1909 inn Knit fancies, 1899 and 1909 " iXV Mohair and goat hair, 1899 cc Noils, 1899 and 1909 7g Rugs, seamless, 1899 and 1909 .' jgc Tops and slubbings, by worsted iuduatiy, 1904 and 1909 .-i ...'. 108 INDEX. 12QQ Tables — Continued. ^f^^.^^'ion in United States of— Continued. po^- Wool felt hat goods, 1899 and 1909. . . . f^: Wool, raw (exclusive of pulled wool), 1890^1911 ink Wool, washed and unwashed, 1890-1910 «? Wool-filled woven goods for men's wear, 1899 and 1909 1 9q Wool waste, 1899 and 1909 "^fj Worsted-filled woven goods for men's w'ear," 'l899 and 1909 1 97 Worsted yarn, 1899 and 1909 jf^ Woolen yam, 1899 and 1909 ■ ||2 Production of wool in Australian States, 'igNOO* to *19d9 iql Ready-made clothing and wearing apparel in the United States^ Analysis of coats of — Typical men's suits, overcoats, and pants. ... qck Typical men's suits, for different grades of clothing 866 8fiS Typical men s overcoats for different grades of clothing' ] ' ' '867 869 873 Typical men;s pauts for different grades of clothing. ..!.:.: m] 869 874 ■*• ypieai men s suits . ............. o7a q^a Typical women's skirts ;;;.*; tit Typical women's coats oqc qqJ Typical women's suits 897 rqs Concentration of men's clothing industry-value "of product 'hi 'the United States and m the five leading cities, 1905 and 1910 847 Concentration of women's clothing industry, 1905 and 1910 ftQ9 Cost of manufacturing — Complete cost of typical men's garments 883-891 Complete cost of typical women's garments. qo9 Qn« Factory costs, men's clothing....... "^ X^5 Factory costs, women's clothing XX? Men's clothing, 1910 0^7 ^i ^ Women's clothing, 1909 qXX Costof-^ ^00 Ladies' gloves q^q Ladies' hats, caps, hoods, etc iit Ladies' hose ™ Ladies', men's, and misses' mittens.".*.". ". ] ." ntl Ladies' scarfs and shawls qTJ Lumbermen's socks ^tJ Men's half hose .*.'.*.".'*. qto Men's woolen and worsted gloves*.".!. " ' " ntn Toques ^^0 ^ men 's suits ^^^""^ ^"^^ ^""^ ""^ ^^^"^^ ^^ """^^ fo'r"diferent "grades of Relation of clot'h* cost to total" 'cost "of" men '"s" overcoats.' llo Relation of cloth cost to total cost of men's pants. . . tto Relation of cloth cost to total cost of suits. .... 87fi *87q l«T Relation of cloth cost to total cost of women's clothing. .'. ' 898l«qQ Sheep'number fn- "''^^"'' ^""^^ ^'' ^'^'^ '" ^""^^ P^^« ^''^'- ' ' - 875 Argentina, by breeds, 1908 ^^^ Argentina, by Provinces, 1908 oin Australia, by breeds ^}.^ Australia, by States, 1884-1909 .".';.". ] i; :;::;.*:::: i.':.' ] 492 lot Australia, by States and area of holdings. ... ' Jx^ Australia, by States and size of flock iYS Bntish South Africa, by subdivisions, 191o".*.".". oao New Zealand, by breeds, 1911 ^ NewZealand, by size of flocks i}!° Specified countries, from latest returns or estiiii'tes".*. ] oV ( United Kingdom, 1910 fii United StatSs, 1910 ^^9 UnitedStates, by States, 186 A*9ld....'.;." Jq? ou i5^^^^4 ^*^*®^' ^7r ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ States, 1890-'l'910. *.".". om Shoddy mdustry m United States— ^^ By States, 1909 Comparative summary, 1859-1909.... iiz^ MaterialB used, 1899 and 1909 Hi ••• ^ID 1266 INDEX. 383 385 399 400 38G 38G 410 382 387 307 330 4C3 497 lO'O 1025 1023 "Bibles — Continued. P^m* Shrinkages of wools — Amount and per cent of shrinkage of clean wool resulting from scour- ing specifiea grades of fine wooUiaving their origin in given locali tiea. Amount of clean wool and per cent of shrinkage resulting from scouring foreign croesbreda and domeBtic woola grading one-Eall blood and under. -• English fleece wools En^^lish skin wools * Estimate of the approximate shrinkages of colonial grease wools Estimates of approximate shrinkages of the lower grades of colonial grease wools * Mazamet pulled skin wools Present grease-pound rates wi th computed scoured-pound equivalents . Record of actual importations and scourinps in a reoref^entat^ve Ameri- can mill, covering more than 10,000 pounds of Class I wool Specific scoured-pound rates, with greaee-pound equivalents, on wools of various shrinkages Total receipts and expenditures, capital per head, selling price of wool per pound, and net charge against wool per pound, of flocks investi- gated in the western United States, by States Total production of wool in the Australian Commonwealth, 1900 to 1905) . . Typical pastoral areas in Australia held under Government leases \Yago3 and efficiency of labor and machinery in the United States — Carded wool mules in use in mills in the United States Carding machines in u^e in woolen mills in the United States Carding machines in use in worsted mills in the United States Blatribution of operatives in woolen and worsted mills in the United Statc3, by sex and by earnings groups, for occupations in which 75 per cent or more ef tlie operatives were paid 16 cents an hour and over and those in which 75 per cent or more were paid less than 20 cents an hour 1005 Distribution cf operatives in woolen and worst ey country of birth and by time in industry 971 By country of birth and by time in mill 971 By country of birth and by time in occupation 972 By sex and country of birth and by department and occupa- tion 950-953 By sex and country of birth and by former industry 9G1 By sex and country of birth and by time employed in industry. . 976 By sex and country of birth aud by time employed in mill 977 By sex and country of birth and bv time employed in occupation. . 978 By sex and time employed in industry and by time employed in occupation 93 1 By sex and time employed in mill and by time employed in industry. 979 By sex and time employed in mill and by time employed in occu- pation _ 980 By time employed in industry and by time emplovod in occupation. 970 By time employed in mill and by time employed in industry 905 By time employed in mill and by time employed in occupation. . 968 Number of female operatives receiving specific hourly rates of wages, by department and occupation 994 Number of male operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wr.ges, by department and occupation , . 990 Number of operatives receiving specified hourly rates of wages, by department and occupation. *. oss Number, per cent distribution, and per cent of total of the operativc-3 in woolen and worsted mills in the United States: By sex and by hourly rate of wa^es 997 By sex and by time in mill, time in occupation, and time in indus- ^^. 975 By time employed in industry and by time employed in occupa- ^tion : 9C9 By time employed in mill and by time employed in industrv 9G4 By time employed in mill and by time employed in occupation 9G7 Percentajge of seconds in dress goods manufacture 1079 Piece price per 100 pounds of filling yam paid spinners operating one mule ; : ^qis Piece price per 100 pounds of warp yam paid spinners o]x;rating one inule 1016 Fteparatory and finisher gill boxes (Bradford system) in use in worsted milla in the United States io27 Preparatory and finisher gill boxes, French combing, in use in worsted mills in the United States 1029 Productive efficiency in mills in tie United States — Plain serge fabrics lo^i Fancy serge fabrics 10G3 Plain and fancy worsted fabrics ] 10G4 Productive efficiency in weaving — In woolen mills in the United States for males and females 1056 In woolen and worsted mills in the United States 1049, 1050, 1052 1268 Tables — Continued. ^ INDEX4^ Pag«. ^ I < ;." "v..o.v.« imiia m Lne umtea ctatea for males and females 1051 Of specified worsted fabrics in mills in the United States^ loso Of specified woolen fabrics in mills in the United Stat^. lo59 ^T^\mZ^7 ""^ ^^*^°^ ^^ operative, labor cost per pound ^ Bmdford^s^^tem"' ^""^"^ "^^^ ^^' ^^ establishmenti: Combing ???? Frame spinning , ??? French combing |[J^^ French drawing 'J J So? Mule spinning, woolen f™ Mule spinning, worsted ^Jf!j woolen carding :[^^^ Productive efficiency of machine and operatiVe," labor cost*^; 'pound and average wage rate, by estabUshments: ^ ^ ' Wool scouring Worsted carding jJJ-J Sw5 T''''^''^" i"" ""f ^^ T*^^^^ «^*^ woreted milYs'in "tie United States, by place of make and years in operation inoi bpinmng frames m use in worsted mills in the United States icnk 1^7^to mT* migration of woolen and worsted mill empYo^^eV, "^mente" ^'^""^ P^^® P^^ yarcl" ( wwlen'i^d woreted "goods)", "by ek'abii'sh- ^^^ wn.>)!n '''^f ^?^^'*^'- ^"i ""^ ^^ ^"^ ^« ti^"« United 'st^ttes.'.v;;. ; :::;■•■* ^^^^lo38 ^omen s clothmg industry- m United States, 1909.... 041 ^t Wool man ufacturea— " ' ^4i,mo Summary of, in France, by subdivisions, 1896, 1901 1906 o-.q StetS J^f^^^^^«*^^^^« ^^d P^^sons employed' in German'y," by "" Gi^,^^g^r:^?^^ :-^^^'' -^ ->^^-' i-^-," in 2 --—Materials used in United States, 1870-^19i6 07 Total products of, in United States, 1899-l'909'.'. ". ] i «q Woo product of the United States, by States, 1910 '.V. 65 \\ 00 , raw, production of, in leading countries, 1900-1910. 66 Wm wnR^iit't^lf?"^" ^^' consumption in Europe and North America; ". '. ". '. 214 Wool-woriing mills in Germany, mechanical equipment, 1907 210 Woolen and woi-sted factories in United Kingdom— ' ^^' ^'^ Number of operatives, 1907 ^aa ^ Production, 1907 ^J* ttn ?nd wo'^S'^^^^' ''' leading countries," p"ro*d"u"ctiv"e equ"ipmen"t; ." ." ] ." 256 Ki^dom^ So'!! . "' ^^^^^^"'^ ^^*^^ g^^^«' produced in United Woolen industry in* tfnited' States^ " * * ^^^ By Statesj 1909 ^ „^ — Comparatiw summary, 1859^1909 V." ixl Machmery used, 1909 i^^ Materials used, 1899 and 1909 ' " * iia Woolen-producing spindles in specified countries. ." f f ? Woolen, worsted and shoddy industries in United Kingdo"m," "mech"aii"icai equipment and persons employed '' ' ^^^"B. ; 10'^7 1 04'' Scouring machines ^^qJj' jq^2 Spinning frames.. . """""'.'.'.'."]'.'.[[[ 1035,' 1042 {£>€€ am Country of bufh of employees.) Receipts per head of »heep in Westeoi 349 Relative standing of States in eli^>ep 394 Sheep industry. {See Sheep industry in United States!) Wool manufactures. {See Wool manufactures in United States.) Wool production in aaa Unwashed wool, nature of. 4§ Upper Ohio region, sheep in tuo Uigawool ^2 Uruguay: Breeds of sheep in ^3^ Climate of ^ r op Future of wool industry in '-"'--'-*. ^" --.'"""!!!]] 1 .'';."". 537 vf rasses 01 ••.••.........,......,.,...,....__ f^oQ Labor required in 5Q5 Lambinji in ..".".. 535 Locusts in 536 Number of men required with sheep " . ] 535 Number of sheep in 3Q7 Rambouillet sheep in .].].... 537 Shearini^ in 535 Sheep disefifles in ...V^..... 536 Sheep in 530 Total investment in sheep in 54Q vJ^"^ :::;:;::::;::::;:::::::•::::::: 539 Breed of rams and ewes in ^ m Leasing value of lands in ' 607 596 Valparaiso wool ^o jo* Variations due to the quality of the material and twist per inch in'spiiiiing' ' "'«47 Vanations in cost of converting wool into tops in United States. . 64'' Vermont, industry in, investigated ^ Vicanere or Bicanere wool 42, 433 Victoria, percentage of merino sheep in 348 Victorian wool, prices of 468 Virginia, sheep conditions in 546 Volo wool 43,422 W. Wages and hours in Austrian mills , $34 Wa^es, hourly rates, method of obtaining 1006 Wages in dyeing and finishing establishments: England 790 Germany 793 Austria 805 France , 807 United States 809 Wages in Germany in various occupations , 83© Wages in sheep industry: Herders 339 In Argentina 539 In South America .• 539 InUruguay 53& Scaleof sheep laborers', in Australia , 485 Table showing, in western United States 339 Wages of spinners and piecers in German towns 777 Whales. {Se£ Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, and Country of birth ol employees.) Warp yam, piece rates for spinning 1016, 1017 Wasned wool , , 45, 432 Washing of wool 46 Washington, breed of rams and ewes in 606, 607 W'astes. {See Hard wastes and Soft wastes.) Wastes from yam to cloth: Finishing wastes 624 Preparatory processes 624 Weaving-room wastes 624 Yarn remnants 624 Wastes in weaving, recoverable value of 625 Wearing apparel of wool: Classification 155 Commerce for leading countries (exclusive of knit goods) 163 Exports, by countries 157 Hats, wool felt — Imports for representative years 157 Production 157^ 153 Imports — By countries 156 For representative years I5g Knitted articles — Commerce for leading countries , , . , . . 161 Imports for representative years 153 Manufacturing process , 153 Production ] " isg^ 159 Production in England and Germany , , 161 Other ready-made clothing — ' Imports for representative years 162 Production 162,163 Rates of duty 155 Shawls, knitted and woven, imports for representative years '. 162 Weavers: Earnings, method of obtaining 1045, 1046 Efficiency 1045-1075,1080 Grades of 1077, 1078 Hourly rates of wages 1005-^1010 Number 95a, 951 Piece rates 1010-1016 Premiums loio, 1014 Proportion of 954 Sex 950,051,954 •^-^ i JU INDEX. Weavers— Continued. Warp stop motion on looms. Woolen Worsted Weavers' wage scales: Austrian Belgian French Weavers' wage scales and'a^eemVnts*: -Cinglisn (jrerman Weaving: Definition Manufacturing process..*. Weaving rates (Tourcoing, France) .*.' .' H^ea ving-room waates ^ Weight of— Roving Tops • Wells, necessity W/oA'ii'eep ranges.". Western lambs, feeding of.... Western range sheep, breeding of... VV estern ranges, sheep on . . Western dieep and lambs in Neb^ka Western sheep: In corn-belt States In Kentucky *' In Minnesota In Missouri " In Tennessee In Wisconsin Movement of Western United States, sheep of Wether wool.... ^ fVinciers: ........ Country of birth Hourly rates of wages. . . Number ] Sex Burnt and cut-over laud in Cost of maintenance of sheep in.'".' Dogs and fences in Internal parasites in sheep' of Shearing in Sheep farming in .• Size of flocks and farms in. Western sheep in Wisconsin, industry in, investigated'.'. '. Women s ready-made clothing Concentration of industry... Women's ^rments: Relation of cloth cost to total cost. . . Specimen, cloth cost of . . . ;. Specimen, manufacturing cost of. . .'.'.*.'. Wool ffis of.^* *^^ ^ ^^^^ ^"^ y^ to'ciothi^;;::.".; Adrianople skin (Kassapbatchia) ... Afgan ' tjY . Albanmn Aleppo Alpaca American .".'.' ' INDEX. Page. •.-... 1076 . 100&-1010 - 1005-1010 764 767 761 713 726 122 ... 122,123 771 763 .... 624 .... 622 ... 622 .... 601 . - - . 550 - . . . 604 .... 593 .... ^ 581 ..-." ' 556 ... 589 ... 583 . 576,578 ... 587 ... 574 ... 555 ... 593 ... ^ 39 ... ' 346 ... 607 ■••- 950,951 989, 992, 995, 999, 1003 ■ 950,951 950,951 -- 672 -. 574 .. 571 .. 572 .. 573 655, 570 .. 573 . 574 . 892 . 892 . 89S . 894 . 894 . 902 33,43,423 42,428 43,422 42,431 40 299, 300, 301, 354 Wool, kinds of— Continued. Ai^entina Australasian Awassi ]] Bagdad .'."'.' Blackface Bokhara Braid Bushire Bussorah Calmuc Canadian ,[[[ Cape Carded Carbonized Castel Branco Central Asiatic China Ball China lamb's "Comeback" Cordova Corsican , Criolla Crossbred .' Cyprus [ Damascus Delaine Donskoi Down clothing Down combing East India Egyptian English Fall Fine Delaine Georgian Greasy Haslock Heath Herd wick , Hogg or hogget , Horns Iceland Improved Jaffa Jesselmere Joria Kandahar Karadi .* Kasan Kashgar Kelat Khorassan Kuban Manchurian Merino Merv Mesopotamia Mestiza, metz, and metis.. Mongolian Morocco '/,[ Native Smyrna Native South American...' Navajo Nouka Odessa ^-"^^a» •••.•••««..,,.,.,,,,,,. Oporto 1273 Page. 40 34,299 .... 42,431,432 . 33,42,430-432 43 42,427 38 431,432 --.- 42,431,432 42,427 36,39,40 35 109 109 33,419 ■ 427 43,435 33,430 35 .--. 42,420,436 420 38,301 32,384 431 42,431 31,301 ... 41,423^25 32 32,38 42,433 .... 33,36,435 35,39,299,419 >....... 38 38 ...... 41,425 35 419 421 419 39 431 43 45 42,431 434 42,433 42,433 .. 42,431,432 41,424 42,429 434 .- 42,413,428 41,424 42 >.••... ol, 32 42 432 429 36,436 431 436 414 42,425 35,425 42,431 419 1274 JIJPI JLPJo Jlih« Wool, kinde of — Continued. Pagt. Pacputan ^^ 434 Pandemia ......'...........[.... ^ 430 Picklock ..................[[,, ' 37 Port Phillip .....,.., 35 Pulled. (-See Pulled wool.) Pyrenean 43,420 5^<^?^o """;;.;.■;;. 521 Jtvussian ^ 4]^ Savolp .....................'41 424 Scotch black-faced or Highland [,[ ' 419 |9^F^ '.''.*.!;;'35j46,*46,396 fj^^"g ?. 435 ffP;-: 00,61,62,421,422 Skirted 49 smjTna .'.".";;;;;;;; ;;"";;;;;;;;;;;;'42, 431 Snow white 35 Sorted. (-See Sorting of wool.) South African 3^ 522 South American -"-- -r.""//33,'34,*42,*36i,'384,*436!528 Spring 33 Supercombing 35 Syria 42 Szechuan 435 Teg .-...*...' 39 Thibet **" 434 Toucha... ;"""""-";-";;";;";;*42,425 Transcaspian 40 427 Tscherskoi ..[[[[Ill] 41 424 Turkestan a9 4.97 Unwashed 45 ^^JTga 42 Valpafaiso.. 42,435 V icanere, or Bicanere 42^ 433 Victorian .[.'..]'..['.[','.'.[[[, 468 Volo 43 422 ^}i^^ '.^I'.y.y.'.'.l'.'.'.'.lll 45^432 VV ether qq WoOSie 4qK Zackel. ili;ii;iil^;;r43,"42i,' 423," 425,435 Wool, miscellaneous: Australian, sales of 469 Average charge per pound in United States 376, 377 Average price received, comparative 342 Average railroad haul of, in New Zealand [ .' 508 Average weight per head in Australia 342 Bales of, sold inXondon .';.".*.".*.' 398 Character of Argentine 528 Character of, produced in corn belt , ', 559 Ckflsification of 29, 30, 31, 33,'38,'41, 415 Conditioning of 105 Consumption of, in Europe and North America 214 •^ Coet of a pound, how determined 311-313 Distinction between wool and hair ; 30 Domestic grades of 299, 301 Flat rate on scoured pound of 397 Fluctuations in market 393 Freight on, in Australia [ 351 Freight on, in New Zealand [,[ 508 Gfaoes of Kentucky 589 Grades of leading foreign 300 Grades of New Zealand 300 In com belt, sales of 56O Industry in Argentina, future of 527 Market prices in Australia 467 Method of packing in New Zealand 503 IND£JU 1275 I Wool, miscellaneous — Continued. !*««»• Net charge against a pound of 311, 371 Net charge against, in Australasia 350 Prices of South African 512 Production of. {See Production of wool.) Sales of, in London, etc 392 Shrinkage. {See Shrinkage.) Specific duty on scoured 396 Table of prices and exports in Argentina, 540 Testing by sample 397 Wool combing, Bradford 815 Wool, combing on commission 640 Wool dyers' w^a^es, Verviers, Belgium , 808 Wool felt hat industry in the United States. {See Wool manufactures. ) Woolgrowing in eastern United States. 353 Woolgrowing, unique position of America in 395 Wool manumctures in: Belgium, Italy, Austria, Tlussia, and Japan — Comparison with leading countries 255 France — Character and organization 253 Comparison with leading countries 255 Contrast with England 253 Contrast with Germany 246 Distribution 252 Mechaniral equipment 254 Persons employed and number of establishments, by subdivisions. . 253, 254 Production 254 Germany — Carded woolen fabrics produced in 1907 252 Carded woolen yarn produced in 1907 251 Comparison with leading countries 255 Contrast with England and France 246, 248 Distribution 246, 247 Establishments and persons employed, by subdivisions, in 1907 247 Extent and organization 248-249 Household industry 249 Mechanical equipment 250 Shoddy produced in 1907 252 TopsproWd 251 Wool scouring and carbonizing 251 Worsted yam produced in 1907 251 United Kingaom — Comparison with leading countries 255 Contrast with P'rance 253 Contrast with Germany 246, 248 Distribution 242 Exports of woolen and worsted goods 246 Mechanical equipment 244 Persons employed In wool and hosiery industries, 1907 243 Persons employed in wool and worsted (including shoddjO factories, 1907 - 244 Production in woolen and worsted factories 245 Scope and organization * 243 United States — Carpet and ru": industry — Comparative summary 232 Development and organization 232 Distribution 233 Materials used 234 Mechanical equipment 233 Production 173, 235 Clothing industry — Men's clothing 241 Summary of men's clothing 241 Summary of women's clothing 242 Women's clothing 241 1276 INDEX. Page. . . . 239 - - - 240 ... 240 - - . 165 ... 236 - - - 236 - . - 237 - - - 238 - - - 238 - 159,161 ^ ool manufacturers in—Continued. United States—Continued. Felt gooda industry- Comparative Bummary Development ' " Distribution [[ Ma teriala used ' Production Hoeiery and knit gooda industry— Comparative Bummary Development and organization Distribution Materials used Mechanical equipment....... Production Shoddy industry — Comparative summary Development and organization £? Distribution -^14 , Materials used '*'.". ^^^ Mechanical equipment oymiilsV. ".;.*.".'.' ||f Production ^16 Summary of — '^^> 216 Comparison of imports and production ^^ Table 1896-1911....^ ,„, General comment Jx, Imports — l"! Analysis of By countries ;oo .?? ^ Table 1896-1911 .' ^'^^^ J89 Production 188 Wool felt hat industrj^— 189 Production I Summary 241 Woolen industry— 157 Comparative summary Development and organization.'.".".'.' * ." * |f f Distnbution -^-'5 Materials used. . .:..... ^^7 Mechanical equipment.'.*.'.'.'. ". '. ^28 Production. 228 Relation to worsted industry". ['.'..'. f?2~Soi Worsted industry— 219,220 Comparative summary- Developinent and organization.. .'.'.*.■ [[". ;,,o Zon Distnbution • ^1^» 220 Materials used 221 Mechanical equipment.'.'.".",'.* '. ] - ^23 Production ^^2 Relation to woolen industrv ??'^' '^-^^ Wool on the skin: muusiry 219,220 .Duty on Imports for representative years ^'^^ Origin ; 62 Wool-Pcouring department:* ^21 Average number of operatives per machine. ia.>o Average wage rates 1022 Labor cost per pound. . . 1022 Productive efficiency ' ' 1022 {Seealso Department, employees "by ) ^^^^ Wool small wares: ^ ^ Articles defined Claaeification of 166,167 Commerce for leading countries.'.'.".".'.'.;; }^^ Dutieson 169 Imports for representative 'years'.*. ■^^^' l^l Production 168 FKKiuction in United 'KMKdom'iid'Fiaiice'.'. JSf loo INDEX. 1277 Wool sorters: (Jountry of birth ^^s®- Hourly rates of wao-es A ^^0, 951, 956 Nativity ^ 985,990,994,998,1001 Number 956 Sex 950, 951 W^lrca^^^^ ' ^^"^^ 'i>-P-"^tnient,' employees 'by.') ^''' ^^^ Average run Average number of op^rati'v'es per'sVt* of "c'ard's ]^l^ Average wao^e rates 1026 Average width of card. . . .'. 1026 Labor cost per pound 1026 Productive efficiency .,,, 1026 Woolen fabrics, miscellaneous: 1026 Weave, construction of Yards woven by individual "wea'vers 1080-1217 Efficiency of individual weavers. . . ..■;.'. JnQA~i oH \\ 00 en industry in the United States. (See W^l manuiactures ') " ' ^^^^^^17 Uoo en linings, importance of, in the manufacture of clothinf^^ w£ ^ TpS^r ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^' ^^^^-^ ^^^^^^^ - - -" -• : -• -■ : : : : : ?06^ Average run. Average number of spindles per'operativ'e }^} Average wage rates 1041 Labor cost per pound 1041 Number of mules 10^1 Number of operatives ." ■" 1040 Number of spindles ...."." 1040 Productive efficiency. 1040 Woolen yarn, compensatory'dut'y on'.'. 104] Wools of: 624 Class I — Countries of production ... Definition and classification v ^^' 299-301 Duty on— 31,417 Scoured Unwashed 45, 47 Washed 51 Imports— 45, 47 Analysis of By countries ^1 For 1911 .'.'.".".""* ' ^^ For representative years..]. fj Class II — 52 Countries of production .. ,^„ .__ Definition and classification.... ^^' ^ooJTf Dutyon— 38,417 Scoured Washed and unwashed ly titl Imports — 4/,oi, 5d Analysis of By countries ^4 Forl911 54 Class III— 53 Countries of production ^q >n o ^oo Definition and classification " ' Iiii^ Description of leading varieties of .;i' ^H Dutyon— 418-436 Scoured At: at Washed and unwashed a^kI Imports — 4/, &b Analysis of By countries 57 For 1911 ;;; 58 , For representative years " ^l Woosie wool 58 435 '%l 1278 Worated carding: ^'*••• Average count 1024 Average numl>er of operatives per card 1024 Average wage rates 1024 Average width of card 1024 Labor cost per pound 1024 Productive efficiency 1024 Worsted dress goods, ladies' : Weave construction of 1080'1217 Yards woven by individual weavers 1080-1217 Efficiency of individual weavers 1080-1217 Worsted fabrics, miecellaneous: Weave construction of 1080-1217 Yards woven by individual weavers 1080-1217 Efficiency of individual weavers on 1080-1217 Worsts, fancy and plain: Weave construction of 1080-1217 Ywrds woven by individual weavers 1080-1217 Efficiency of individual weavers 1080-1217 Wasted industry in the United States. {See Wool manufactures.) .Worsted mule spinning: Average count - 1039 Average number of spindles per operative 1039 Average wage rates - 1039 Later cost per pound 1039 Number of mules 1038 Number of operatives 1038 Numl:>er of spindles 1038 Productive efficiency 1039 Worsted spinning cost sheets, specimen, weekly 646 Worsted yam, compensatory duty on 624 Wyoming, breed of rams and ewes in 606-608 Y. Commerce for leading countries 119| 120 Comparison of production with imports 189 Definition and classification 111> 113 Distinction between woolen and worsted HI Duties on 111> 11^ Illustration ' HI Imports-- nr nft Analysis of ^J*J> ^|^ By countries 116 For 1911 115 For representative years 116 Manufacturing process 111> 112, 113 Merino - - • m Mohair, alpaca, and other hair yarns; commerce for leading countries 121 Priee quotations 117110 |lf Production ■^^'^' Ho 1 oi Production in United Kingdom and France.. 11°, 120 Range in number of spindles in mills making yarn exclusively 619 RenTnants 624 Yield of cloth from 625 Yield of, from tops 623 Woolen and worsted, compensatory duty on 624 Wersted, American conversion cost for - 648 Z. Zackel wool 43, 421, 423, 425, 435 o K % '^T: i^* m™! "^ tf '* 11*1*1 I** Et'. . A J COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES This book is due on the date indicated below, or at the '.^( a^vi expiration of a definite period after the date of borrowing, as B*,' Z*^"^^ provided by the library rules or by special arrangement with ^E- -vJN^^ DATE SOUKOWCO •1..-J l"^ M 'J" A PR I S B sy DATS DUE OATK BOKftOWEO DATE DUB i.%;- lv» p (?/ tl K -itf . . ,'• I'll %» .M» » . Tf .«. . .' I .■ . . # i'/ J 4, ••|»' * • ••■ « «.. 1.I.O" #1 . I „ .7 flifaf '^ 1 tf iri iyfii iiiii ffltiT ' * '- v^iliiH^^I^^MHiMiKiiliHBHl 9} 5ai" D360.7 U. S. Tariff board. m^. Un395 v.1-2 Wool and manufactures of wool ^^S^IH^: %mM^ "Ml," . .-l .1/ i .->« . ^'^^^^^''^*^''^-'»«>^M :i:l i. ;' END OF TITLE