iEx HtbrtH SEYMOUR DURST -f ' "Tort nuMtv ^m/ftrj*m. of Je MatJiatans IVhen you \eave, please leave this hook Because il has been said "Ei^er'lhing comes I' him who wails 8:xcepl a loaned book." Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library Gift of Seymour B. Durst Old York Library !£ ^ S^ fir GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD EDITED BY ELBRIDGE S r3ROOKS BOSTON D LOTHROP COMPANY WASHINGTON STREET OPPOSITE BROMFIEI.D OFrSfTi 6J Copyright, 1890, II Y I). LoTIIUor C'u.Ml'ANY. PREFACE. It is a somewhat ungracious task to pick and choose from among the World's metropolises a certain number to be classified as the Great Cities of the World. To the inhabitant of every busy city his own town is not only great, but the greatest. If not in population then in tradition, history or surroundings, the claim to greatness will be jjroudly advanced and as strenuously insisted upon, and woe unto him who seeks to dim the luster or belittle the proportions of the city's record of importance. In this compilation, however, the editor has sought to avoid the disputed question of constructive greatness, and to ba.se the selection rather upon the single claim to bigness as given by the census returns. Population is, after all, the one material test — even wealth and commerce standing below it in comparison. Many a goodly city of our own land should really have place in i\us list if the wealth of its citizens, the importance of its manufactures or its trade, and the position it holds in the ever- lengthening honor-roll of progressive American cities were here to have consideration. And every such city, when compared with the sleepy, retrogressive and often tumble-down towns of the far-off Orient or of those less pushing nationalities familiarly known as "the effete monarchies of Europe" would surely have a better claim to the distinctive title of " Great " cities. In the limited space allowed him, however, the editor has striven to do justice to all lands — with, perhaps, just a shade of favoritism toward America. The voice of the census-taker has been heard in the land even while this book has been preparing, and the relative position of the cities as given in the volume may not be in strict accord with the result of the investigations of these modern inquisitors ; but the endeavor has been made to make the order taken as nearly correct as possible, for not all the earth's cities are of the character of many of those Oriental towns where the census-enumerator is unkliown and where the population, always estimated, has a fluctuating margin that varies from two hundred thousand to a million. No one, however, who goes over the descriptions here somewhat meagerly collected can fail to be impressed with the feeling that deepens almost into the assurance that the world is growing and progressing in every section. Few, if any, of the cities here described have fallen back; nearly all have materially progressed — an indication that the days of war and rapine, of strife and destructive e]iidemics have indeed passed, and that the era of peace, of companionship, of a growing loving-kindness among men is fast coming on. For some of the cuts in the book the publishers desire to make appreciative acknowledgment. Especially is this due to David McKay, of Philadelphia, the John Shillito Co., of Cincinnati, the ^linneapolis Board of Trade and to those others who kindly placed certain of the illustrations accom- panying the description of their respective cities at the service of the publishers. CONTENTS. LONDON . 9 SHEFFIELD 117 PARIS 16 CLEVELAND . 118 NEW YORK 23 SHANGHAI • 120 CANTON . 30 ROME 120 BERLIN . 31 BUFFALO . 123 PHILADELPHIA 34 MUNICH . 125 VIENNA . 39 NEW ORLEANS 126 TOKIO 42 KIOTO 128 CHICAGO . 44 PITTSBURG 128 ST. PETERSBURG . 47 DUBLIN . 130 CONSTANTINOPLE 50 SEOUL _31 CALCUTTA 5^ DRESDEN . 132 BROOKLYN 54 LISBON 133 BOMBAY . 56 BARCELONA 134 MOSCOW . 58 SANTIAGO 135 GLASGOW 60 BORDEAUX 135 LIVERPOOL . 62 EDINBURGH 136 PEKIN 65 DETROIT . 139 ST. LOUIS . 66 STOCKHOLM 139 BALTIMORE . 68 WASHINGTON 141 BOSTON . 71 TURIN 145 BUENOS AYRES . 76 MINNEAPOLIS 145 BRUSSELS 77 BRISTOL . 147 NAPLES . 80 ST. PAUL . 149 BUDAPEST 81 SYDNEY . 151 MELBOURNE . 82 ANTWERP 152 LYONS 84 BUCHAREST 153 WARSAW . 85 MILWAUKEE 154 BIRMINGHAM . 86 ALEXANDRIA 156 AMSTERDAM . 89 BELFAST . 157 MADRID . 92 PALERMO . 158 MARSEILLES . 94 KANSAS CITY 159 CAIRO 95 LOUISVILLE 160 MADRAS . 97 SMYRNA . 161 RIO DE JANEIRO 98 TEHERAN 162 OSAKA , . 100 NOTTINGHAM 163 HYDERABAD . 101 MONTEVIDEO 164 MEXICO . 102 PRAGUE . 165 MANCHESTER . 104 BENARES . 166 SAN FRANCISCO 105 LILLE 167 LEEDS 107 ROTTERDAM 168 CINCINNATI . 108 HAVANA . 170 HAMBURG 112 NEWARK . 171 BRESLAU . 113 MONTREAL 172 MILAN 114 JERSEY CITY 173 COPENHAGEN . 115 VENICE . 174 LUCKNOW 116 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. In tlio licnrt of the city .... Fro»tis Tlie i;uar(l of the tower Tlie 'I'ower of Londoii ..... 10 Westminster Al)l)ey 11 The Bank of England 12 Interior of Saint Paul's 14 View of Paris from the Seine .... IC Church of Notre Danic 16 Bird's-eye view of Paris 17 Bridge of St. Louis 18 Tlie Bourse 19 The Luxembourg Palace 20 The Louvre 21 Open-air caf6 22 Book-stalls on the Quai Malaquais . 22 Tower of Produce Exchange .... 23 New York, from Governor's Island 24 Picturesque New York 25 Madison Square 27 Cooper Institute 27 Fifth Avenue, below Central Park . 29 Initial 30 Statue of Frederick the Great .... 31 The Brandenburg Gate 32 " Der Miihlendamm." — The Mill-Dam, Berlin 33 The Liberty Bell ...... 34 Picturesque Philadelphia 35 New Pul)lic Building 3G Statue of Franklin 37 Fa(^-ade in Vienna 39 Ileinrischof 40 In old Vienna 41 Interior of Japanese shop .... 43 Chicago in 1820 44 Picturesque Chicago 45 Statue of the Czar Nicholas .... 47 Bridge over tlie Neva 48 The Winter Palace . 49 Initial 50 In the bazaars of Stamboul .... 51 Constantinople 52 Esplanade, Calcutta 54 The bridge from the Brooklyn side 56 A Hindoo temple in the Black Town, Bombay 57 The great bell 58 The Kremlin 59 In the dry docks 60 Picturesque Glasgow 61 New municipal buildings 62 Great Western Hallway Station, Liverpool 64 Feast of Lanterns in Pekin .... 65 Custom House and Post-offlce 6(5 Court House, St. Louis 67 Battle Monument 69 Baltimore from Federal Hill 70 Soldiers' Monument 71 King's Chai)el . State House On Boston Common and the Puljlic Garden Commonwealth Avenue . Cathedral of Ste. Gudule . Tourists abroad A girl of Naples Government building "The Block" in Collins Street, Melboui Below the Heiglits .... A marriage ceremony in Warsaw The fish market at Amsterdam In Amsterdam streets The boy-king of Spain The P.alace of Congress . In the bull-circus, Madrid The Rue La Cannebiere . A street in Cairo .... View from the citadel of Cairo In the Black Town. Madras Hio Harbor and Sugar Loaf Mountain Hio de Janeiro A Japanese carriage. — The Jinrikisha The Nizam's palace .... Approach to the Char Minar . In the court of the National Museum In the smithy Bird's-eye view of San Francisco The City Hall Initial The Tyler-Davidson Fountain, in Fountain Square The Ohio River, opposite Mount Auburn A Hamburg market-woman On the promenade . The Kongens Nytorv The Bailey Guard Gate . Forging a steel ingot at the Atlas Steel and Iron Works, Sheffield . The Garfield Memorial Initial .... On the Corso The Castle of San Angelo St. Peter's and the Colonnade The new Academy of Fine Arts in Munich The French market. New Orleans View of Pittsburg from Coal Hill A rainy day in Dublin streets . Phaniix Park. Dublin View of Dresden Bridge over the Elbe Initial View of Bordeaux The great bridge ove. the Frith of Forth Statue of Sir Walter Scott The Castle Hill . View of Stockhohn . 72 73 74 77 79 80 82 83 85 87 89 91 92 92 93 95 96 97 98 99 99 100 101 102 103 104 106 106 •JOH 109 110 112 113 115 116 117 118 120 121 122 123 125 126 129 130 131 132 133 134 136 137 138 138 140 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The Washington Monument .... 141 A girl of Palermo 158 The Capitol and Pennsylvania Avenue from the Initial ICO White House 142 The Shah entering Teheran 1G2 The Capitol 143 View of Montevideo • 104 Mount Vernon. — Home of Washington 144 The Ganges, at Benares . 16C City Hall and Court House .... 14G In the gardens of Lille . 1C7 Minneapolis Public Library .... 14G In the harbor of Eotterdam IfiS The Falls of Minnehaha 147 Picturesque Holland . lf.9 Coming into port ...... 148 In the Cathedral 170 The State capitol, St. Paul .... 149 Newark from the Passaic 171 St. Paul from Prospect Terrace 150 In the St. Lawrence Rapids . 172 View of Sydney 151 The Hudson River at Jersey City 173 Cathedral at Antwerp 152 A water-vender on the Riva . 174 Picturesque Milwaukee 155 On the Grand Canal 175 View of Alexandria 15C. The Cathedral of St. Mark 176 At Belfast docks 157 GREAT CITIES - OF THE WORLD LONDON. ^O be the leading city of the world in population, wealth and trade, culture and historic associations, is a pre-eminence that must make such a city at once the center of the world's interest and the mark toward which all others must aspire. Such is London — tlie metropolis of the British Empire, the largest city in the world. The vii^itor in London finds himself overwhelmed by its immensity. Before he leaves it he is fully con- vinced of the truth of Mr. Stockton's assertion, that "if one were to undertake to Avalk one way only through all the streets of London, he would be obliged to go a distance of two thousand six hundred miles, or as far as it is across the American Continent from New York to San Francisco." Extending fourteen miles in one direction and eight in the other this mighty metropolis has to-day a popu- lation of nearly four and a half millions of people. It has an area of fully forty-six thousand acres, occupies portions of four counties, is cut in twain by a broad and famous river, and is divided into a curious con- glomeration of fourteen governmental divisions — districts or boroughs. It numbers among its residents more Scotchmen than Edinburgh, more Irishmen than Dublin, more Jews than Palestine. It has a foreign population of more than a quarter of a million. In England one person out of every fifteen lives in London. This enoimous collection of human beings, num- bering more than the entire population of the six New England States, are of all sorts and conditions. Some of them, according to Mr. Stockton, are "■ so rich that they can never count their money, and some so poor that they never have any to count." And these all find homes in the five hundred thousand inhabited houses of Loudon. London has been for so long " the great city " that it is hard for one who to-day stands amazed at its vastness to realize that there ever was a time when this gigantic, metropolis was nothing but a collection of rude huts, encompassed by an earth wall and a ditch on a cleared spot reclaimed from fen and forest. Yet such was probably the case, as its very name seems to indicate. But whatever its origin — whether it was only a rude forest clearing on which the earliest British "boomers" started a claim, whether it was the mythical city founded by Brut, the son of ^neas the Trojan, or that capital city of Cassivelaunus the Briton that Julius Caesar captured and 9 THE GUARD OF THE TOWER. 10 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. sacked, its early da3-s were certainl}' full of turmoil and trouble. Franks and Norsemen, Picts and Scots, Danes and Saxons in turn conquered and ravaged it, while fire and famine, pestilence and whirlwind have again and again visited it to scourge, to decimate and to destroy. A review of the city's annals up to the close of the seventeenth century reveals little else. But, prostrated by each scourge, London almost immediately regained her feet again and went unconcernedly about her business. The attempt of the arch-conspirators — fire and pestilence — to annihilate her, was an ignominious failure. Disheartened, they slunk away, and have never since plucked up courage to send out anything more than the skirmish line of their forces. London had other enemies during these earlier centuries. There were enemies without. With twenty thousand men and thirty -eight ships she was foremost in resisting the Spanish Armada. There were enemies within. There were the struggles for kingly succession in which she was bound to take sides ; there were Nat Tyler's insurrection and Jack Cade's rebellion. There were precious charters to maintain against the usurpation of John and others like him. There were all forms of religious persecution, even to burning at the stake, under Henry the Eighth and Bloody Mary. There was the Civil War ; Parliament must be sustained. But to turmoil succeeded quiet. Never, like Paris, a turbulent city, her last two centuries have been especiall}- peaceful, and her growth both in population and area has been enormous. The cit}' administration of to-day is a legacy conscientiously handed down from the Middle Ages by generation after generation of citizens, each generation adding a little. The precious privileges granted in these old cliarters liave been hoarded and counted and gloated over with as keen a delight as was ever miser's gold. So it is that, just as he did generations ago, the Lord Mayor still moves amid great pageantry and glitter to take the oath of office at Westminster, and for a consideration of ten thousand pounds and pei-sonal expenses amounting to about half as much again, keeps the " show running " for a year. Even the Queen cannot enter the sacred piecincts of " The City " without the Lord Mayor's permission. It is probable that the material aspect of London would have undergone as little change as the administrative government, had not a fiery providence swept the old away. Still, despite the purgatorial fire, there is much to recall the past. Parts of the old encircling wall are still standing and Roman relics are occasionally dug up in great numbers. The Tower frowns forbiddingly as of old. Originally, in William the Conqueror's time, a royal jjalace and fortress, it became later a prison and a place of deatli, tlie scene of many a tragic drama during the succeeding centuries. In the Tower, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, led his singular life, Richard the Second abdicated, Henry the Sixth was assassinated, and Charles, Prince of Orleans, lightened the burden of a quarter of a century of confinement by writing poems. The frown it continues to wear — from long habit, no doubt — is to-day quite liarmless, for it sheltei-s nothing more ten-ible than a museum and an arsenal. Here are stored the trophies of England's wars^ the national archives, the jewels of the crown, some of the richest collections in the world of arms and armor of every period, and an enormous array of modern weapons for a national emergency. - Among all the thirteen bridges that span the Thames, London Bridge is still the great causeway. The original stiucture does not remain, however : tliis was torn down and replaced THE TOWER OF LONDON. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 11 WESTMINSTER AUBEY. many years ago. St. Paul's and "Westminster Abbey are still the great churches. St. Paul's is the third largest church in the world, St. Peter's and the Milan Cathedral alone surpassing it. Whether, as some maintain, it occupies the site of an ancient temple to Diana is more than doubtful, but it certainh* dates back as a Christian church to the seventh century. The present structure, the sixth upon the spot, was designed by Sir Christopher Wren and finished at the ver}- close of the seventeenth century. Good architectural judges find it remarkable chiefly for its massive simplicity and beautiful proportions, rather than for its adornments, the interior especially being verj- plain, as compared with most European cathedrals. Westminster Abbey was founded about the same time as St. Paul's, but was not regularly established as an Abbey until the time of Edward the Confessor. It is the coronation churcli and contains the royal burial vaults as well as a long series of monuments to warriors, saints, statesmen, poets, musicians, men of science, travelers, patriots and adventurers. " At every turn," says Washington Irving, " I met with some illustrious name, or the cognizance of some powerful house renowned in history. As the eye darts into these dusky chambers of death, it catches glimpses of quaint efifigies ; some kneeling in niches, as if in devotion; others stretched upon the tombs, with hands piously pressed together ; warriors in armor, as if reposing after battle ; prelates with crosiers and miters ; and nobles in robes and coronets, lying as it were in state. We stej) cautiously and softly about, as if fearful of disturbing the hallowed silence of the tomb ; while every footfall whispers along the walls, and chatters among the sepulchers, making us more sensible of the quiet we have interrupted. It seems as if the awful nature of the place presses down upon the soul, and hushes the beholder into noiseless reverence." Ecclesiastical narrowness and political prejudice have barred the Abbey's doors to some of England's noblest sons and daughters, and have flung them open wide to some of the most detestable. But for all that, burial in her Abbey continues to be the highest tribute England can pay her dead. There are other London landmarks equally old, but less pretentious, quaint nooks, touched lightly by the centuries, such as Irving found on his pilgrimage to Eastcheap. A stroll about the older quarters will amply repay any lover of antiquities. London's opportunity to become both a beautiful and commodious city fell to her after the great fire of 1664. But, true to her instincts, she refi;sed to adopt Christopher Wren's compre- hensive plan for rebuilding, considering only tlie needs of the moment and the convenience of o o W iri GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. 13 the hour. As a result of this iuexeusiible old-t'og^isiii, London streets are not only irretrievably iigly _ which is of no conscMiuonce to the average Englishman — but extremely ineonveiiieiil, and inconvenience does wound his utilitarian susceptibilities, and lead him to ponder on what "might have been." The growth of the immense new outer city has been totall}- unregulated, so that there is absence of direct connection between important points : streets are blocked thereby and traffic enormously impeded. London has five well-marked divisions. Smallest in area, but greatest in importance, the center of all business activity is the Old City, that part which was once surrounded by a wall. Scarcely anybody lives there — the resident population certainly does not exceed fifty thousand — but between nine and eleven o'clock on business days a human stream pours in, seven hundred and sixty thousand strong, and between four and six o'clock it all pours out to the suburbs again. A strange spectacle is this business ebb and flow to the loiterer on London Bridge. There is no great merchant in the whole British Empire that does not have an office in the city, yet no great merchant lives there. Formerly it was a dismal, dirty place quite out of keeping with its cosmocentric character. Of late years, however, great improvements have been made. Narrow streets have been broadened, hollows filled in, new streets cut through, and gigantic warehouses and civic buildings have risen upon the sites of tumble-down houses. Now it can at least claim to be respectable if not beautiful. To the east and northeast of the city are the homes of the working classes, uninteresting save from the human point of view, for here are collected the squalor and misery that are London's sliame, sorrow and peril. West of the city is Westminster, the seat of government of the British Kingdom. Here are the immense Parliament Halls and the famous Abbey. Beyond Westminster, at the West End, lies the fashionable quarter, resplendent with parks, palaces and elegant private residences. All these divisions are on the north bank of the Thames. Southwark, on the opposite bank, is a city by itself. It has a population of two hundred thousand, and is the scene of great business and industrial activity, but boasts of nothing of inter- est to the public. These five great divisions have numerous subdivisions, each more or less distinctly marked for some peculiarity on the part of its habitues. The French affect the vicinity of Leicester Square and Soho. The Italians are found in Hatton Gardens, and the Germans live at the East End. Trades and professions have the same huddling tendencies. Lawyers are nearl}- all to be found in Lincoln's Inn and The Temple, publishers and booksellers in Paternoster Row, journalists in Fleet Street. Pall Mall and Piccadilly are the centers of London Club Life. Doctors, butchers, clockmakers, etc., have each their own quarter. Regent and Oxford Streets are the most fashionable thoroughfares. The great artery of traffic from the heart of the city outward is the Strand. It is lined with handsome shops. It has grown busier and busier every year since Charles Lamb used to frequent it. Yet even in his time he was constrained by its bustle to write to Words- worth : " The wonder of these (London) sights impels me into night walks about her crowded streets, and I often shed tears in the motley Strand, from fullness of joy at so much life." But many a Londoner has ridden year after year on the underground railways, has hurried past the thousands of persistent costermongers and itinerant venders, who alone do a business of four million pounds a year — has been jammed into the daily press on London Bridge, has stood like Lamb in the Strand, dazed by the perpetual swirl and has even had an office by the very valves of the city's heart, who knows almost nothing of the fullness of its business activity in its relations to the rest of the world. He has examined commercial reports, no doubt, but statistics of imports and exports, of ships and tonnage and customs revenue make no clear-cut impression when they are so enormous. . There is but one way to get even an approximate idea of the extent of London's inter- national trade and that is, to follow the river down for six or seven miles from London Bridge in the midst of what Byron once described as " A mighty mass of brick and smoke and shipping." Since Byron's time, the mighty forests of shipping have grown mightier, the huge warehouses and magazines have grown huger, the wine and oil burrows have distended into mammoth caves ; new docks have been built without rivals in the world. It is the compound interest of growth, and we wonder will it ever cease, until it has overspread the whole fifty miles to the sea, and the "■' i\ -;~i ESTEEIOR OF SAESTT PAUL S CATHEDRAL. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 1.; great upper city t'iitteiiing on the life of this siiail have swuIKmI westward to llie other sea ; so resistless, so relentless is its trend. Former ages have known no such marvel. The vaunted nineteenth century has been able to supply none greater than this. Financially, in even a more complete sense than commercially, if that be possible, J^ondon is a globe center. It is literally the world's great banking-house and clearing-house. Every gieat corporation of every important civilized country has here its office and its agent. Values are as inevitably reckoned from London as longitude is from Greenwich. A slight pressure on an elec- tric button at the London Stock Exchange may vitalize or paralyze financial interests located thousands of miles away. The industries of London, while of immense size and importance in themselves, are unimpor- tant relatively to its commerce and finance. The price of labor and land makes it cheaper to man- ufacture away from the metropolis. Of all the industries brewing is the most important. Of the one hundred and ten great breweries the best known is that of Barclay, Perkins & Co. in Soulh- wark, which covers an area of twelve acres. Tlie prosperity and wealth that old Dr. Johnson a century ago prophesied for the London he so loved has been attained. In view of so much commercial, industrial and financial activity, it is not to Ije wondered at that some of the most loyal of London's sons are gloomy with forebodings, that satisfied witli riches she shall neglect and forget all the nobler things of life. It must be confessed that in much which makes life worth living, London might learn wisdom of many a smaller, poorer city. In music, in architecture, in sculpture and painting she has but a low prestige. But it would be a hasty judgment that should declare utility her ruler and money her god. Many thousands there must be among her millions whose knees " have not bowed unto Baal." The glory of her literature past and present is enough to confirm that. Her museums alone would vindicate her. The noble British Museum is the largest and richest in the world, considered as a whole, as it is also the finest in several departments, especially Greek and Roman antiquities and engravings. Its library, which is second only to the Paris Library, contains over one million bound volumes, besides numerous manuscripts. While art does not flourish in London, the National Gallery — though of course not to be compared with the Louvre — is exceedingly valuable to students of the history of art, and the comparatively new Royal Academy has always a good loan collection. London architecture is unquestionably inferior to that of all the more important European capitals. It would be uncharitable to say that Providence has kindly lent London a veil of fog to shroud her ugliness and conjure up unreal beauties. Yet the thought will come, and artists cor- roborate it. A London fog is unquestionably, to the artistically unregenerate mind, a most unlovely thing. At present however the city gives promise of an architectural new birth. Some of the more recent public buildings and works have been constructed with some regard for beauty. Stone is rapidly replacing brick. The saying that " The nineteenth century found London brick and will leave it stone " is a prophecy that seems likely of fulfillment. Still other evidences there are that London is not wholly given over to material gain : her numerous learned societies (with the Royal Society at their head), each doing solid work for the different departments of science ; her colossal charities with an aggregate income of over four million pounds ; her schools with accommodations for over half a million children : her colleges and univereities, social clubs, books, journals and magazines ; her parks and pleasure grounds, her missionary and Bible societies for the evangelization of the world ; her thousand churches and chapels that supply the great city's religious life ; her concert halls and her forty theaters, some of which have in recent years been the scene of important revivals. "■ He who is tired of London is tired of life," said Dr. Johnson. The good doctor was (juite apt to make strong statements, and this is one of them. Yet even those who like London least must admit that she is a sturdy city with a noble past and a yet more noble present. And if she can only be persuaded to w-eave into her destiny more of the amenities of life, more of its " glory and genius and joy," that destiny is bound to be still nobler. PARIS. VIEW P ARIS has had my heart from my child- hood. I love it tenderly even to its faults and its blemishes. I am a French- man only as I am a citizen of this great city, the glory of France and one of the world's noblest ornaments." Thus wrote Montaigne in the latter part of the sixteenth century, and Daudet, in the latter part of the nineteenth, referring to an enforced absence from Paris in his early manhood, says : " Yes, I pined for Paris. I pined for Palis, for the precious things I had left there, for its fog, and for its gas, for its journals, its new books, for its evening talks at the cafe, or under the peristyle of the theater, for its fine artistic fever and its perpetual enthusiasm." This affection that the Parisian bears and has always borne to Paris is unique. It is so strong that he cannot live at all or can at best on]^' half live away from her ; it is so partial that she seems to him in all respects a veritable goddess. Patriotism is the Frenchman's religion, and he adopts in speaking of his country the glowing phrases of religious enthusiasm and exaltation. Love of France is love of Paris without qualifi- cation. Peter the Great once said that if he pos- sessed such a town as Paris he should be tempted to burn it down for fear it should absorb the rest of liis empire. Paris has done precisely this. It has absorbed the empire. To say that it is the center of the political, judicial, artistic, scientific, commercial and industrial life of the nation does not express the fact. Paris is the nation. But after making all due allowance for the intense patriotic bias of the Parisian mind, the fact remains that Paris is a remarkable city. Witness the fact that foreigners have vied with the Paris- ians themselves in her praises. Hawthorne, for instance, in almost tlie same breath that he berates the French people praises their capital. He says : " Never had my idea of a city been gratified till I trod those stately streets." Mr. Stockton de- clares that " there is no one place which will show us so well what Europe is to-day as Paris — the queen city of the world." Paris is remarkable first of all for her beauty. An immense city, surrounded by ramparts^ twenty- one miles long, cut in twain by the river Seine, that winds and doubles so much that there are seven miles of the river within the city walls, full of broad and handsome streets, magnificent buildings and miles upon miles of stores and shops, Paris is generally admitted to be the most beau- tiful city in the world. She is a marble citj-, and 16 CHURCH OF NOTKE DAME. GREAT CITIES OF 11 IK WOIMJ). 17 lill:l) S-F.YK \aEW OF PAKIS. foremost among her beauties are her noble edifices — palaces, churches, government offices, shops, bazaars and private mansions. The glorious transformation from brick to marble abruptly checked by the Franco-Prussian "War and the riots of the Commune, has gone rapidly on toward completion. One is met at every turn with magnificent specimens of architectural comeliness — Gothic, Renais- sance, and Modern. In the very heart of the city is the colossal palace of which Hawthorne said : " I never knew what a palace was, until I had a glimpse of the Louvre." The name Louvre was probably derived from an ancient hunting chateau, called Louverie, that used to stand liere in a wolf-infested forest. Francis the First laid the foundations in the middle of the sixteenth century. Neaily every succeeding ruler has added something to it, so that it shows many different styles of architecture. In 1852, Xapoleon the Third consummated the old plan of the French kings by joining the Tuileries and the Louvre. Together, they covered an area of forty-eight acres. But the union was not for long. The Tuileries were destroyed by the mob in 1871. The Louvre also was slightly injured, but was quickly repaired. Across the river from the Louvre is the Luxembourg Palace, the seat of the Senate and former residence of Marie de Medici ; and not far away the Bourbon Palace, the present seat of the Chamber of Deputies. Other prominent public buildings are the Palais de Justice ; the Hotel des Invalides, a refuge for old soldiers beneath whose majestic dome rests the sarcophagus of Napoleon ; of this building Montesquieu said : " I Avould rather have built this, if I were a prince, than to have won three battles." Tlie Palace of the Legion of Honor, an exquisite structure of Louis the Fourteenth's time ; the Elysee, Palace, a vast modern edifice used by the Presi- dent of the Republic; the Hotel de Ville, successor of a much grander hotel destroyed in 1871 ; the Trocadero Palace, somewhat resembling the London Crystal Palace, and built expressl}' for the Exposition of 1878 ; the Palace of the Institute, the Mint and National Printing Establish- ment are others of the notable buildings of Paris. Of the numerous beautiful churches, the largest and probably the most famous is Notre Dame de Paris. It is in the form of a Latin cross and has one of the most beautiful facades left to us by the Middle Ages. The present structure was erected in the twelfth century on the site of two other Christian churclies and a Pagan temple. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries attempts were made at so-called improvement which resulted rather disastrously. This 18 GREAT CITIES OF THE WOKLD. century has seen a restoration on a magnificent scale bj' Viollet le Due, that is in every way a wortliy one. Within, strange scenes have been enacted for a church. During the Ke volution it became a Temple of Reason, when ]\Ille. Maillard as Goddess of Wisdom and her priestesses were enshrined and where their orgies were celebrated. In the Commune it barely escaped destruction. The chairs were all heaped up in the choir and ignited, but the draft was so poor they refused to burn. Nothing else -could have saved it. It has witnessed some gorgeous ceremonies, the most gorgeous of all no doubt being the coronation of Napoleon and Josephine at an expense of eighty- five million francs. Sometimes, too, religious fervor has prevailed. The great Bossuet and Bourdaloue both preached here. Here twelve thousand persons were in the habit of listening to the Dominican, Lacordaire. Pere Hyacinthe the Carmelite and the Jesuit, Pere de Ravignan. made here their greatest spiritual conquests. Next to Notre Dame in fame and beauty, are the church of St. Genevieve (the Pantheon) and the church of the Madeleine. The second largest church in Paris, St. Eustache, was built by the architect David, early in the seventeenth century. It is regarded as the most com- plete specimen of Renaissance architecture in the city, (iothic in essentials, but classic in details. A decidedly unique ehui'ch is Notre Dame de Lorette, probably the lichest of any in its interior decorations, so very rich, in fact, that it has come to be called the "religious boudoir.*' The church of the Oratoire, conspicuous for its stately porticos, is famous for the preaching of Massillon and Mascaron. It was used for public meetings during the Revolution. The Sainte Chapelle was built by St. Louis to receive the crown of thorns from the Emperor of Constanti- nople. It is exceedingly beautiful. Other noteworthy churches are San Roch, Avith its pictur- esque arrangement of chapels, S. Germain de Pres, dating back to the tenth century, in which Descartes is buried, St. Sulpice architecturally interesting, as being built by the Florentine, Servandoni ; St. Etienne du Mont, " a fine and delicate marvel of French art," containing the tombs of Racine and Pascal, and St. Gervaise where interior Gothic can be studied«it its best. Even such edifices as these, if jammed together on narrow, crooked and unkempt stieets, would find all their magnificence of little avail. Paris streets, qua^s and Ijonlevards, liowevcr, are models of width and straightness. They are well-paved, well-drained, brilliantly lighted, and scrupulously neat ; always bustling and animated, but free from deafening noise. Possessing thus a certain kind of beauty in tliemselves, they also heigJiten the greater beauty of the buildings that fringe them. The boulevards as first laid out, occupied the site of the old fortifications, and it is from these they derive their name. They are nowhere less than thirty-three yards wide, the busiest and most fashionable in the world, with their broad walks, numerous shade trees, attractive sliow- BRIDGI-. wi .^1. i,t>Uio. O a 20 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. THK LfXE.M)i&,».'TtV^... .,,..„ PICTURESQUK NKAV YORK. 26 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. ouly twenty -two thousand. At that time it was not to be mentioned with Boston and Philadel- phia. It did not reach even its first hundred thousand till 1815. It was not until 1825, in fact, the year the Erie Canal Avas opened, that it really began to grow. It had at that time about 160,000 ; in 1880, the census returns gave it 1,206,299. To-day its estimated population is 1,800,- 000, and before the decade is out the two million limit will have been passed. These figures place it far in advance of all American rivals, but in making any compai'ison with European cities, it ought to be borne in mind that they very imperfectly represent its real size. Brooklyn, Jei"sey City, Hobo'ken and Long Island City are only so many overflow meetings, as it were, of the great Manliattan Island Convention. They have as clear a title to be censused with New Y.ork as do the analogous quarters with London and Paris. These overflows aggregate fully eleven hundred thousand while the growing cities of Newark and Yonkers together Avith the suburban villages of the great city increase the actual resident and contributory population of New York City to fully three and a quarter millions of people — giving it the right to be called the second largest city in the world. Of the eighteen hundred thousand people within the municipal limits, full}' one third are of foreign birth. Of these Irish and Germans are the principal elements. English, Italians, French, Scotch, Russians, Jews, Chinese, Welsh and Spaniards are quite numerous, to say nothing of a sprinkling of still other nationalities. None of them are thoroughly assimilated ; some of them scarcely at all ; the Irish are certainly the most so. They may be said to do the chamber and kitchen work, drive the cabs, work the provisions, keep the saloons and the order of the cit}-, and to a certain extent direct its political destinies. They are on the whole frugal and industrious. The Germans control much of its commerce and banking, make its music, and do its cabinet- making, brewing and baking. The Italians wait on its tables, do its ragpicking and turn its hand organs. Tlie French do its fancy cooking, the Chinese its laundry -work and the Jews direct no small portion of its small trade and its immense commercial enterprises. Nor should the unclassi- fiable street Ai'abs be omitted here, a full ten thousand of them, whose only language is the patois of the gutter, whose only home tlie hogshead or drygoods box. They are Jacks-at-all-trades, but they principally black its boots and sell its papers. Mr. Howells, who may perhaps be considered as the latest student of New York's cosmopoli- tan life, says, " New York is still j)opularly sujiposed to be in tlxe control of the Irish, but every observer returning to the city after a prolonged absence must remark one fact: the numerical subordination of the dominant race. If they do not out-vote them, the people of Germanic, of Slavonic, of Pelasgic, of Mongolian stock outnumber the pre-potent Celts. The chief pleasure (to a new-comei) of life in New York is from its quality of foreigniiess : the flavor of olives which once tasted can never be forgotten." A dozen years or more ago, the forty lines of horse railway began to find it absolutely impossible to attend to the needs of the rapidly -growing city. The demand for better transit led to the construction of the elevated roads in 1878. Four lines run on four avenues from the Battery to the Harlem River. These lines have come to carry over half a million passengers daily, and the travel on the horse railways has increased notwithstanding. In fact, the congestion is as great, if not greater, than before the introduction of the elevated roads. The problem of rapid transit is as far as ever from solution. But at all hazards, freer and quicker communication between the city's extremes must be had. The sudden development of the northern part of the island caused by the building of the elevated roads has swelled enormously the value of real estate, and inevitably made many fortunes. In 1887, the total assessed value of real estate was ^1,254,000,000, a gain of over 150,000,000 in one year, and one half of this gain was above the middle of Central Park. The total valuation of property — both real and personal — on January 1, 1889, amounted to $1,603,838,113, showing an increase of over 8500,000,000 in ten yeai-s. These figures are too enormous to convey any very definite impression to an}' mind but that of the financier, if they do even to his. It may be helpful to note, in this connection, that the giound on which New York stands was purchased of the natives for twenty-four dollars. AVhile so much of this wealth seems to be directly traceable to the elevated roads, it really lias its origin in the exceeding great prosperity of the city, which made these roads necessary. GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. 27 Possibl}-, too, it is a prosperity wliicli is l)ased upon tlie gitraiitic financial, connnercialand in- dnstrial interests centered in the metropolis. What there has lx;en so peculiarly favor- able in its natural situation and its histoiy to attract thus powerfully this trinity of in- COOPER INSTITUTE. MAUISOX SQIARE. terests and to give it in its turn superiorit}"- over all its former supe- riors is for the special student to de- termine. The fact is sufficient that it is to-day the American metropolis and, after London, the most impor- tant commercial and financial city in the world. Its connection with the interior is secured by water-courses and hundreds of daily trains over tens of thousands of miles of rail- roads ; with the rest of the world by ocean steamships to almost every quarter of the globe. Its importation is nearly seventy per cent., its entire foreign trade sixty per cent, of that of the whole United States. Of the eight million emigrants who came to America between 1855 and 1882, five millions disem- barked at New York. An equal proportion of the bettei- class of passengei"« have made it their destination. Its postal and telegraphic business is from three to four times that of all the other American ports together ; so that, if foreign trade be made to include all purely financial transac- tions it would not be exaggerating to say that seven eighths of the foreign business of the United States is concentrated in New York. Philadelphia held its own as the first American manufacturing city for some time after it dropped to second place in population, but it had to yield the palm in this also at the last census. Architecturally New York seems to be on the eve of a renaissance. In the erection of the Equitable Building and some of the more recent newspaper buildings a marriage of art with the industrial spirit is dimly foreshadowed. The tall campanile of the new Produce Exchange is a thing of beauty that promises much. The fresh young beauty of St. Patrick's white marble cathedral, with its two carved and pinnacled spires, maj- suffer in comparison with the venerable majest}' of the cathedrals of the Old World, but it is notwithstanding, probably the finest church edifice in this country. It is certainly a very significant fact, that the four architects who have presented the best designs for the new Episcopal Cathedral are New Yorkei-s — in a competition open to the architects of the world. The science and art of architecture, so far as this country is concerned, is undoubtedl}- domiciled at present in New York. This fact, and the kindred fact 28 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. that a spirit appreciative of architectural beauty is gradually infusing New York life, ought to afford more satisfaction than the ability to point to numerous flawless monuments of an attainment that is past and dead. New York glories in its bigness and bus3--ness. It has a right to. But every candid New Yorker is willing to acknowledge the defects in his city. He appreciates them better than any- body else can. He has painful recollections of its political shortcomings and vulgarities. He is well aware that the poorer classes are excessively crowded, though he may not be familiar with the figures : six hundred thousaiid people living below Fourteenth Street, five hundred thousand crammed into twenty thousand tenements. He knows how dirty it is. And, if he is alike candid, traveled and cultured, he will be enough a citizen of the world to admit that his city has but little esprit du corps, but little iinity of purpose, life or attainments, that her architecture is abominable, her civilization far from perfect and lier society dominated by dollars. At the same time, he knows that he has little to be ashamed of in any comparison with other American cities, and is alive to the rich promise that confronts him everywhere. New York is indisputably the center of the art life of America, so far as America has any art life. The Metropolitan Art Museum has at last, after twenty years of struggle, attained to the dignity of a nucleus for such a great national collection as the Louvre and will be able by virtue of itself, and of the enlarged advantages soon to be derived from its Metropolitan School of Fine Arts, to give a real impetus to art education in this countiy. The collection of the Lenox Library, though small, is choice and very helpfully supplements that of the Metropolitan. The National Academy of Design has one exhibition each of oils and water colors annually ; occasionally others. The " sales," more frequent than in any other city, are sometimes of high merit and these have their educating influence. All these things, added to the picturesqueness of her cosmopolitan life, are attracting artists and amateurs in great numbers. Besides she has a just cause of pride in the actual attainments of a few of her painters and in the growing powers of such sculptors as Warner and St. Gaudens. If music be in question, no American city will venture to compare itself with New York. It is the only city that supports grand opera through a whole season. Its musical life lacks originality it is true, music and artists being largely imported ; but appreciation of the beautiful, if not alwa3-s in itself creative, is always a prerequisite to creation of the beautiful. Theaters cater to every taste and every stratum in New York society ; there is cer.tainly no other American city where actor and playwright are so much admired, where histrionic art is lield in such high esteem, and is associated witli so many brilliant stage triumi^hs. Educationally, New Yoik takes a fair rank. Her public schools are good, Imt Jiot the best. Her city college for young men, her normal college for young women, both absolutely free, are of a high grade in pratjtical education. Columbia College, which is really a univereity, is doing a glorious work along very nearly the same lines as Johns Hopkins. Cooper Union, the gift of Peter Cooper, is. one of the grandest monuments to consecrated wealth the world has ever seen. The building alone, admirably adapted to its purposes, cost six hundred thousand dollars, and is readily accessible from the poorest quarters of the city. It contains a library, a reading- room with nearly five hundred periodicals, schools of science and art free to all and a School of Telegraphy. A course of free lectures is also given every Saturday evening through tlie winter. Five hundred women attend its " Women's Art Scliool ;" its evening schools are attended by three thousand working bo3-s and gii-ls annually ; and twenty-five hundi-ed rough and not over cleanly people visit its reading-room daily. Tliis noble charity has gone a long way toward solving tlie vexed question what to do with the masses in great cities. New York could have no surer defense than a whole girdle of Cooper L'nions. In literary life New York's record is not to be underestimated. Her future is full of vigor and promise. If not the metropolis of literature, tlie signs of the times are that it will be, and it is indisputably the metropolis of the periodical. As for budding genuises and would-be litterateurs, they for some reason flock to New York. That perhaps don't count, but it has its Authors' Club, the most strictly literary of any club in this country, and that does count. Other clubs are doing their part to season the Philistinism of New York's social life witli the literary spirit, while the social life of the city is in every sense that of a capital — a metropolis. GliEAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. ■I'J A few years ago, Wm. C. Conant, writing in the Century Magazine, declared his belief that New York was to be the tiual world metropolis. He found comparatively little difficulty in making it the final metropolis of the United States ; assuming then that the United States was to be tlie great nation of the future, his case was a clear one. He went on to prophesy a city of fifteen miles radius and an area of seven hundred square miles, a site so large that if one half were neglected and one seventh were water, there would still be an occupied area double that of London, and sufficient, because of its water fronts, for many times the business of London. " Lower New York will be the London of tlie future, upper New Y'ork its Paris," is his succinct statement of its ilestiny. The argument amounts almost to mathematical demonstration, it is so exceedingly tlioughtful, logical and flattering to our natiouiil pride. Still such forecasts are always liable to mistakes. Many a flattering prophecy was stultified by the unforeseen applications of steam and electricity. So may tliis be by even a slighter thing. However, it is so very pleasant to think about, why not grant ourselves this indulgence ? 'But all prophecy aside as well as all rose-colored views, of literar}- and artistic tendencies, letting idealism give way to realism, New Y'ork as it is to-day can scarcely be more accurately described than it bas by one who knows her best, Walt' Whitman, America's " good gray poet," in the following characteristic lines : " City of Ships!. (O the hlack ships! O the fierce ships! O the l)Ciiutilul. sharp-bowed steam ships and sail sliipsi) City of tlie world! (for all races are here: All the lands of the earth make eoutrihutions here.) City of the sea! City of hmried and ixlitterinir tides! City whose srleeful tides continually rush or recede, whirling; in and out with eddie- ami fdnm! City of wharves and stores! city of tall facades, of marble and iron! Proud and iiasy a gilded d(jinc' in wiiicli hang tliirty massive bells, which aie all rung at Easter. Outside the Kremlin the larger and later city stretches in every direction. Here is tlie " Red Square," with its busy commercial life and its fantastic cathedral known as the Church of Vasili or Basil the Blessed, "the most curious edilice in Moscow." It is a conglomeration of chapels, towers and spires, no two alike, either in design or decoration, and the architect of which (an Italian) had his eyes put out by that cheerful monarch Ivan the Terrible in order tliat he might not build a more beautiful edifice for any other monarch. " The story," says Dr. Wight, "would be more probable if it ran that the terrible Czar put out the architect's eyes in vengeance for build- ing such a monstrosity at all." Moscow is not only the richest of Russian cities but it is the most important of the empire's manufacturing cities. The enforced growth of St. Petersburg hiis not stayed its prosperit}-. It is the chief center of Russian railway traffic, is the chief home center for trade in grain, hemp and oils, in tea, sugar, groceries and all the produce and manufactures of middle Russia, and its popu- lation is steadily increasing. Moscow, which has been termed one of the most original of cities, is both practical and pic- turesque. Besides its cotton mills and its tanneries, its candle-works and its silk factories, its carriage shops and its tobacco factories, it has academies and libraries, musical conservatoiies and military schools, scientific, literary and musical societies, old bookshops, great commercial houses, palaces, museums, cathedrals, markets and bazaars and all the elements of a prosperous city. The birthplace of the Russian poets, Pushkin and Lomontoff, Moscow has the l)est theaters in Russia, while the city, gay with its gilt cupolas and its sainted towers, half European, half Asiatic in its looks and life, is au even more varied and interesting citj' to visit than St. Petersburg, four hundred miles across the swamps and forests toward the frozen north. THI. kUKMi.IN. GLASGOW. G IN THE DRY OOCKS. J^ASGOW is essentially a " self-made " city ; her attractions lie more in the present than in the l^ast.' Outside of her ship-bnildinor yards on the Clyde, the immense establishment of John Elder and Corajjan}- at Govan, the Steel Company of Scot- land's Works at Newton, the St. Rollax Chemical Works, the largest in the world : outside of her pottery works, which turned out over one million of clay pipes a week as far back as 1852 ; her thirty thousand power-looms which weave annuall}- three hundred million j-ai-ds of cotton and woolen goods, valued at four million pounds ; her embroidering of muslins which employed over one hundred and ten thousand women scattered all over Great Britain and Ireland ; her turkey-red dye-works for whicli Glasgow has long been noted ; her iron-woiks and foundries which yearly turn out one and a quarter million tons of cast iron and one hundred thousand tons of wi-ought iron — outside of these great industries, Glasgow though an ancient borough, has little in the city itself to interest the tourist. Still, it is an old, old city. The Monk Kentigern, the mythical St. iNIungo, sat down on the banks of the Molendinar Hum in 560 to teach the savage, half-naked Celts Christianity. On the site of his early labors stands St. -Mnngo's Cathe-/*^ 62 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. KEW MIXICU surprise : Arrocliar on Loch Long, Loch Lomond and Katrine, the romantic Locli Awe watched over by Ben Cruachan and guarded by tlie ruins of Kikliurn Castle, Oban, Ballachulist and the wild pass of Glencoe, Staffii and lona, the wild country of the West Hebrides, the land of William Black and the " Princess of Thule," can all be reached by this highway. Nearer b}- are other historic spots : eleven miles distant lies Hamilton Palace, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Hamilton ; near by is the picturesque ruin of Bothwell Castle ; Langside, where Queen Mary's forces were defeated by Regent Moray in 15(38 lies near the south part of Glasgow, and Lanark, where the " Scots wi' Wallace bled," lies twenty-eight miles away near the Clyde. LIVERPOOL. ROME was not built in a day : neither was Liverpool. For the siege of Calais in 1338, the city, whose commerce now is only rivalled by London, sent but one small bark manned by six men. In the time of good Queen Bess she had only twelve ships and one hundred and thirty-eight householders. From the time of the Restoration her maritime importance began — in 1709 her first dock was built when she had but five thousand inhabitants, by 1730 that number was nearly tripled. In 1801 she had 77,653 inhabitants ; in 1881, 552,425. To-day, if we take in Bootle and Birkenhead, which are practically suburbs of Liverpool, we have the grand total of over three quarters of a million of inliabitants. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 6:3 And her commerce has so tar kcpi [)aee witli her popuialioii lliai lo-thiy, llie aiiiuial amount of dock-dues received exceeds tive millions of dollars, and thirty tliousand vessels enter her muddy harbor. London is her only rival ; in 1880 the exports and imports of London footed up to l(j,4T9,108 tons, while Liverpool came in a close second witli 14,490,304 tons. The city acts as a harbor for many of the towns of North England whose manufactures far exceed her own ; Manchester, Birmingham, Sheffield and Leeds all pour out their wealth through her great harbor. London herself sends her ships in ballast to Liverijool to be re-loaded there. American cotton and American cattle and American lumber, American grain and canned fruits, barrels of apples, of flour, of pork, of sugar, of petroleum, and a thousand other necessities and luxuries are rapidly rolled off her ships to be replaced by coal and salt and iron and steel and cutlery and linens and Manchester cottons. Ninety million pounds sterling represented the value of the exports in 1885, but the imports exceeded these by five million pounds. Liverpool's registered tonniige, which exceeds even that of London or Glasgow, was in 1886, 1,844,203 tons. This comprised 850 steamers and lOcSf sailing vessels. The Inman, the Cunard, the White Star, the National and the Guion Lines all send steamers weekly from Liverpool to New York, and the Anchor Line monthly, while the American Steamship Company sends a steamer weekly to Philadelphia. In view of this immense commerce and large population our young American will [)robably demand, "• What have these upward of seven hundred and fifty thousand ' l)ipeds without feathers ' done t© beautify their city, or to further the cause of Art, Literature, Religion or Humanity ? " At first glance it would seem very little. This " gateway between the Old World and the New " seems to have brushed off upon itself the grime from its thousands of pilgrims. We are tempted to sympathize with that traveled American, wlio declared that although it is not a delightful place of residence, it is one of the most convenient and admirable places in the world to get away from. Her only forests are forests of masts, and her only spreading beeches are the granite-fringed docks of the Mersey. But the scene brightens as the traveller approaches new Liverpool. Broad streets replace the narrow, crowded courts ; granite and brick blocks of business houses in the Italian Renaissance style make an attempt towards lightness and beauty. All the public buildings are new with the exception of the Town Ha^\ in the Corinthian style, surmounted by a lofty dome. Its severe architecture and eighteenth jjutury air is rather unceremoniously jostled against the other three sides of the quadrangle which forms the Exchange. This airy building in the French Renaissance style, with its charming arcade, cost the pretty sum of two hundred and twenty thousand pounds. One would think its News Room, one hundred and seventy-five feet long and fifty feet high, one of the finest rooms in Europe, would be good enough for the " solid men." But no ; sturdy John Bull prefers to transact his business in the open air, and the " Flags " of the quadrangle aie daily filled with a crowd of bustling cotton-brokers, where sight-seers are almost as numerous as in the New York Stock Exchange. Another sight hard by is Saintsbury's Luncheon Rooms in Exchange Street, where the Bulls and Bears dine and the wayfaring man goes to " see the animals feed."' Dead and silent, just as Trinity churchyard lies in the midst of the pulsing heart of New York, just as the sainted dead sleep in the old God"s acre of King's Chapel, Avhile the ciowd of business men hurry unheeding b^s so there lies a little memento mori in the heart of bus}- Liver- pool. Chapel Street leads directly from the Exchange to the Docks, passing the oldest sacred site in Liverpool, that of the Church of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of mariners. Ever since the Conquest a church has stood here ; in old da3\s the overhanging grasses on the banks of the Mersey must have kissed the tombstones of the silent dead, now " all around it is the very busiest bustle of commerce, rumbling wheels, hurrying men, porter-shops, everything that pertains to the grossest and most practical life." From the back of the Town Hall a broad straight street leads to the center of the city and the finest group of public buildings in Liverpool. This Dale Street, together with Bond, Lord and Church Streets hard by, are the Regent and Oxford Streets of Liverpool, brilliant with bright shops and handsome display. Here the Liverpool lady clad in a long sealskin cloak in the middle of June is seen to better advantage ; she has driven down from some of the beautiful crescents or terraces that border on the parks in the suburbs of Liverpool, perhaps from her stately home neai- Sefton Park with its four hundred acres which is well worth a visit, or Prince's Park which though 64 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. GUKAT \Vi:STi:i:\' railway station, I.IVKlil'OOL. smaller, is quite attractive. Driv- ing do\\n from her residence in her stately English brougham, the Liverpool lady is not greeted b}- the sights and sounds that made the day hideous near the docks. In the center of the city, near the Lime Street Station, close bj- the enormous North- western Railway Hotel, where the thirsty American guest has to pa}- " tuppence " for a glass of ice-water, all that newest and most imposing of Liverpool ardi- itecture is gathered together. Here right opposite the station of the Great Western Railway that links Liverpool to London stands the stately St. George's Hall, it being the " crowning architectural feature of Liverpool." Liverpool, although a commercial city, has had her share of worthies ; in Duke Street Mi-s. Hemans was born, and Hawthorne's Mrs. Blodgett had an abiding place there. Richard Mather, the grandfather of Cotton, preached in the ancient chapel of Toxteth Park. Mrs. 01iphant,.too, is a native of Liverpool, and the interesting art critic and biographer of Lorenzo de' Medici, William Roscoe, not only was born there but took much interest in the city's artistic life. So, after all, Liverpool though heavy and uninteresting at first view like many Britons, is solid and warm at heart. Her work for the people has kei)t pace with her material prosperity — her wonderful Mersey Tunnel opened in 1886, her Liverpool University College incorporated in 1881 are some of her most recent contributions to the life, not only of the body but of the mind. Although a commercial city, and ugly as modern utilitarianism must make her natural beauties, she yet gives a more pleasing impression than Manchester, or many other of England's laige towns. Tlie fringes of her garment are more beautiful than the garment itself. Outside of her corporate limits are wonders of landscape beauty and art. Cheshire and the blue hills of Wales are not far distant. In the midst of a large park five miles to the northeast of Liverpool lies the old manor-house of Knowsley, the seat of the Earl of Derby. Rare and costly Rembrandts, Rubens, Teniers and Claudes adorn its walls. Three miles in another direction lies Childwall Hall the country seat of the Marquis of Salisbury with the ruins of an old priory in the midst of its spacious park. Speke Hall, too, is another old moss-covered manor whose history dates back almost to the Conquest. Liverpool's docks are world-famous. Its wonderful landing-stage consists of a huge pon- toon 2060 feet long, from whose southern end the eight lines of river ferry-boats ply on the broad bosom of the mirky Mersey, while the tender of the Cunard line lands its passen- gers at the northern end, sacred to sea-going steamers. This stage which was begun in 18o7, was just waiting to be christened, "greatly enlarged and improved," in 1874, by his Royal High- ness, the Duke of Edinburgh, when the whole structure, which had been creosote-soaked in build- ing, went up in flames, and two million dollars' worth of [)roperty was totally destroyed. 1878, however, saw it replaced by even a finer and more solid structure. This landing-stage forms an integral and central part of the great system of docks which receive the commerce of the civilized world and are the sight of Liverpool. Broad and massive, they stretch along the Liverpool side of the water-frgnt for nearly seven miles. Across the river at Birkenhead, runs another line of docks nearly as long, which have always proved a disastrous investment for Liverpool capital. PEKIN. Tlu; iioitlifin ramimrts. rcaicfl hx the Oir of the midst of gardens and of groves rise the roofs of Pekin — the Ewa?if/ Oihuf or -'Imperial City," —the capital of the Chinese Empire. Gay witli blue, green and yel- low tiles the porcelain-covered roofs of the Imperial City, its temples and palaces, its man- sions and private houses do but intersperse with their vivid colors the living green out of which they rise, and make the whole town — to one who looks down upon it from the artificial mound known as the Kin servator}- set on a hill which furnishes the time to Boston and all the adjacent suburbs, the Botanical Gardens where plants from every clime flourish under the shade of the noble pines, the Harvard College Li- Ijrary where over five hundred and thirty thousand books and pamphlets, many of them ex- tremely rare, are gathered to- gether, the ample Gymnasium — all these belong almost as much to Boston as to Cambridge. Besides its Cambridge buildings, Harvard College has a number of buildings in Boston and the suburbs. The beautiful Arnold Arboretum containing the Bussey Institution is at Forest Hills, a few miles out. In Boston proper is the Veterinary School, the Dental School and the handsome new building of the Medical School on Boylston and Exeter Streets. Not far distant is the "Institute of Technology." the.great technical school of the country, the "New England Con- servatory of Music," the largest musical school in the world, Boston University (Methodist;, open to both sexes. Tufts College (Universalist), Boston College (Roman Catholic), the Normal Art School ; and for young ladies only the " Harvard Annex " and " Wellesley," the latter the largest of the young ladies' colleges, situate in a quiet town a few miles fi-om the city. These all are practically a part of the city. Then there is the Lowell Institute, which, from an endowment of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars has given free instruction in drawing to mechanics and artisans, and free lectures to the general public every year since 1839. Libraries are educational institutions just as truly as schools and colleges, and at this point no city in the United States would dare to challenge Boston to a comparison. Chicago and New York both promise great and immediate development along this line, and Washington has almost unrivalled possibilities, but up to the present, Boston offers opportunities for original research un- equalled on this side the Atlantic, and for the study of American history unequalled in the world. Not to mention any of the numerous private and society collections, any one of her three great libraries, " The Public," " Tiie AtheniiBum " and " Harvard College," would suffice to make many another city proud. The largest of the three, the Boston Public Library, which has just passed its fii-st half million of bound volumes, deserves more than a passing notice. It is tlie largest free lending library in the world and was the first to allow the people to take books to their homes. The legend " Free to All " on each side its central door is no lie. There is no other library on the planet so free of access to the people. If it ever had a rival in this respect it has none now that it has been thrown open Sundays and evenings. On November 28. 1888, there was laid in Copley Square the corner-stone of a new building which promises to he a l>eautiful monument as well as a home for books. If the Boston Public Librarj- shall continue its present attitude toward the citi- zens of Boston, what it has alread}- done for them is but the dimmest prophecy of what it shall do. __ ( / 1?^^: ''V ^'^-L ^■vV^/^-''^^-^=^^^^^^l-.--^"^^ f|^, ox BOSTON COMMON AND THE ITl'.LIC (iAKDEN 74 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Boston has other educational institutions of the kind which all cities possess to a greater or l^ss degree, but her choice Art Museum, Natural History Museum, and educational, literaly and art clubs deserve special mention. These last are so numerous that it is no wonder a stranger should draw the conclusion that " A man no sooner begins to enjoy himself yi Boston than he thinks it necessary to foi-m himself into a club." Among the prominent clubs devoted to literature and art may be mentioned the St. Botolph with its handsome building a stone's throw from the Public Gardens and tlie Papyrus with it« crowd of " literary fellers," many of whom have stood sponsors for tlie best things in the '• Atlantic Monthly," that ethereal quintessence of Boston "culture " and thought. Then too, the purely artistic clubs, the Art Club with its new home on Dartmouth Street where yearly exhibitions are given ; the Paint and Clay Club must not be forgotten, nor the " Press Club," composed of the brilliant newspaper men of the " Hub." The most picturesque club building in Boston in the midst of stately Commonwealth Avenue (that now runs out to the new park and Chestnut Hill Reservoir) that rears its gray front in English style is the Algonquin, a social club, resembling somewhat the Union Club of New York. Possibly, however, some of the "young bloods " of Boston who swear by brawn and physical prowess may declare that the new building of the Athletic Club surpasses even the Algonquin. Boston has reason to be proud of her churches and lier theologians. She has been a teacher of preaching as well as of teaching to the rest of the country — the theological seminary for the United States. Indeed, if a homely, a very homely simile may be allowed, Boston has been the kettle in whicli the theological molasses has been seetliing and boiling for the last two or three generations at least, and all other places have been the plates on which it has been poured at the proper minute and set away to cool. As Brooklyn hjis earned the right to be denominated the " City of Churches," Boston deserves to be called the " Paradise of Ministers." The red-tiled towers of Trinity Church form a land-mark for many miles. With its campanile- like tower piercing the sky the New Old South soars loftily near by ; seen from the West Boston bridge with the picturesque Back Bay in the foreground and the piers of the new Harvard Bridge stretching away in curved lines, with a forest of spires rising in the distance relieved against the sunset sky, and the liglits of early evening begiiniing to twinkle and glimmer on the reflecting wave, Boston with her churches towering upward has a suggestion of Venice and needs only a Turner to make her as justly famous in picture as she has ever been in song and story. COMMONWEALTH AVENUE. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. . 75 Down-town tlie clmrches if less picturesque are more liistoric. (Quaint old King's Chapel with its hranible-tangled graveyard in the heart of the busy cit}', and the Old South where Frank- lin was baptized and where Whitefield preached, where the " tea-party " was organized and where in 1775 the "blasted Britishers" stabled their horses are landmarks that Boston will never will- ingly part with. Nor must the Old North Church where Paul Reveie's lantern glimmered ])e forgotten. Boston may well be proud of her suburbs ; what would she Ije without them '/ — the rolling Newtons, the rocky Middlesex F'ells, cliff-girded Winthrop, and rock-girdled Nahant and Nantas- ket, rural jNIilton and Hyde Park with the silvery-winding Neponset watched over by the pictur- esque heights of the Blue Hills, not to mention Chestnut Hill and Jamaica Plain, Longwood and Brookline, the homes of her merchant princes. The suburbs of Boston are filled with historic spots, where beauty and the Muse of History stand hand in hand. On the heights of Charlestown stands the shaft where our forefathers bravely fell ; on Prospect Hill in Someiville was the first patriot camp and there -was first flung to the breeze the American flag : on the road between Cambridge and Arlington, watched over I)}- the picturesque Arlington Heights, stand granite blocks of great stone marking the spots where the " men of Menotoniy " on the day of the battle of Lexington resisted their oppressors ; in Cambridge itself stands the historic Elm under which Washington took command of the American army — scarcely a stone's throw further rises on a terrace the old colonial mansion once Washington's headquarters, later, the home of Long- fellow. A little farther, near tlie road to Mt. Auburn, where sleep so many of the "storied dead," fly the Herons of Elmwood over the home of James Russell Lowell. Or, if we seek for earlier history still, on the banks of the Charles where the rapid Stony Brook rushes in, stands the round stone tower of Norumbega to mark the spot where, so it is said, the Norsemen first landed, nine hundred years ago. Boston's manufacturing interests are also important. Her boot and shoe, rubber and elastic, clothing, furniture and machine shops, her iron and steel foundries, sugar refineries and printing and publishing houses all do an annual business of over two millions, two of them going as high as sixteen million dollars. She falls behind that which is her due place as a manufacturing center, in comparison with other cities, because her capital is invested more largely in suburban towns than that of any other city. The Puritan of 1630, the Bostonian of 1850, should they return in the flesh, would be dazed indeed. Within the last quarter of a century Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, West Roxbury and Brighton have been annexed, the business district has been much changed by the new and magnificent merchant palaces that take the place of the blocks swept away l)y the dreadful fiie of 1871. Westerly from the Common are streets where the water of the bay grew molten in the sun- sets of Boston's earlier days. This is New Boston ; a New Boston of brown-stone and Japanese ivy fronts, of wide avenues statued and gardened. The " Back Bay " section is a miracle of change. Commonwealth Avenue is fast becoming one of the -most beautiful boulevards in the countrj^ and Copley Square, when the new Library building shall be complete, will have few rivals. Besides, the contemplated system of parks will work a complete transformation. For two miles and three quarters of its length the Chai-les River embankment is to be converted into a park. This will connect with the Back Bay Park (now partially laid out), from Avhich in turn the Muddy River Basin improvement will extend to Jamaica Pond and the Arnold Arboretum. A jiark road eight miles long will run through the whole series. When it is lemembered that Boston has already the beautiful and liistoric Common and the Public Garden, that Franklin Park is growing more picturesque ever}- season, that Brighton and East Boston and South Boston Avill soon have attractive pleasure grounds a slight exertion of the imagination will serve to picture New Boston as a wonderfully beautiful city. Boston's natural advantages are superb — a land-locked harbor unequalled in picturesqueness, a rolling country of downs and fells, of rocky heights and fertile meadows, a picturesque country on every hand readily accessible by swift trains and electi-ic cars, so that Boston really is a "hid)." If the Boston of the future like the Boston of the past tips her lance A\'ith truth and burnishes her shield with independence, little in stature though she be. she will be a power in the community, for the spirit which informs the body will give her beauty and strength. BUENOS AYRES. THE Chicago of South America I Such is the appellation given to Buenos Ayres. "When one," says Mr. Ford, the latest of American observers about the gate\va3-s of the Plate, "goes to the Boca and sees the shipping jammed and wedged into tlie Riachuelo, he is reminded of the Chicago River. When he returns by train along the water's edge and goes out to Belgrano, passing two riverside parks, he recalls again the metropolis of the West, with its rail- ways, pleasure-grounds and palatial residences along the lake shore. The sun rises over a river so broad that it is like Lake Michigan. From that river base the city has shot out north, south and west over a broad and level plain, doubling its population within a decade, and developing an immense volume of business. It is the most important railway center of South America. It is the outlet for the agricultural produce of continental reaches of wheat belt. It is the chief saladero, or slaughter-house, for the stock-raising pampas. It commands a fluvial system exceeding in volume the watershed of the Mississippi. Its commerce has expanded into enormous compass. The city is fairly pulsating with vitality, enterprise and ambition. It has absolute faith in its manifest destiny as one of the chief commercial centers of the veorld. Not to put too fine a point on it, Buenos Ayres is not particularly modest. In all these respects, as well as in intensity of local pride, it strongly resembles the Chicago of the North." The progress of Buenos Ayres is without precedent or parallel in the history of South America. The population was 78,500 in 1857 ; 177,800 in 1869 : 295,000 in 1882, and in 1890, it is at least 530,000. Rio de Janeiro has been distanced in the lace for supremacy, and at the end of another ten or twenty years Buenos Ayres may be close behind Philadelphia and Chicago. The development of the commerce of the city has been as remarkable as its growth in population. In 1850 the import and export trade of the country, which mainly centers in this port, amounted to 821,770.000 ; in 187(5 the aggregate was 881,450,000 ; in 1890 it is now 8228,524,013. The house valuations increased from $37,000,000 in 1857 to 8300,000,000 in 1890 ; and in wealth and resources the city has rapidly risen from an inferior position to the foremost place in South America. The Rio de la Plata (or Plate River) is more a bay than a river, being one liundred miles wide at its mouth, and Buenos Ayres, the capital of the Argentine Republic is one hundred and eisfhtv miles from the sea. Buenos Ayres is bus}', bustling, growing and wide-awake. But it is neither picturesque nor imposing. " The city," says Mr. Ford, " is neither as well-built, nor as favorably situated, nor as attractive to the eye as Montevideo, although it is more than twice as large. The picturesque attractions of Bahia and the majestic mountain scenery of Rio are utterly lacking here. Thei-e are fourteen thousand acres — the Buenos Ayres boomers say twenty thousand — of regularly lined streets on a low-lj-ing plain fronting on a wide river. The streets are uniform in width and the shops or houses on one are like the shops and houses on the others. There are a dozen minia- ture plazas or squares which fail to break the monotonous effect of the unending vistas of shop- roofs and street pavements. The suburbs are inferior in natural loveliness to the Paso Molino of Montevideo. There is a suburban park at Palermo embracing eight hundred and forty acres, but it is too remote to be used as a place of popular recreation. The Jardin de Horida is frequented in the evenings, but it is a dull place in comparison with the Passeio Publico or the Praca in Rio. The new orardens at the Recoleta are not without attractions, and there are fine river vistas from Belgrano and other handsome residence quarters ; but the city as a whole is disappointing to any one who comes from Rio or Montevideo. As a center of business activity it is unrivalled in South America, but bustle is not beauty, and trade statistics have no power to refresh the eye." With the exception of its churches, Buenos Ayres has few imp6sing buildings. The center of the town, according to Mr. Ford, " is the Plaza de Mayo, where stand the Government House, the Custom House, the Halls of Congress, the Cabildo, the Police Headquarters, the Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace and the new National Bank building. The square covers eight acres, is expen- sively paved, is fringed with a coarse species of palms and has two patriotic monuments. With one exception, the Cathedral, the buildings fronting on this square are not imposing. The Con- 7G GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 77 gress Hall, or Capitol, is a commonplace building, ujuvoithy of the pretensions of the Argenti)ie Republic. The Government House occupies the site of the fort erected by the Spanish piuJieers, and commands a direct view of the river. The Exchange and the banks are pretentious structures. Some of the banks are really magnilicent buildings, and here and there are to lie seen ornate business blocks ; but for a city containing a population of over live hundred thousand, Huenos Ayres makes a very poor display of arcliitecture." The Argentine Republic has been well called the South American Yankee-land. The result of the supreme energy and vitality as disi)la3'ed in and about Buenos Ayres is proof of this. The new harbor — built where one scarce existed before, is a magniticent work of engineering, boldly planned and laboriously executed. The cost is fully twenty millions of dollars but il has given what no other South American city has — wharfage. BRUSSELS. BRIGHT, lively, sparkling, a Paris in miniature, with few of the drawbacks which come from residence in that crowded city, the Capital of Belgium and the residence of the roj-al fam- ily, is one of the pleasantest cities that the European tourist is likely to encounter. Other people beside tourists appreciate this fact, for the population has greatly increased within the last decade. In 1878 it was only 167,000 souls, or including its nine suburbs, 390,700. To-day, in- cluding these suburbs it is estimated at 458,939. Brussels, as has been said, resembles a miniature Paris. It lies on both sides of the Senne instead of the Seine, and is encircled by the Boulevards de Waterloo, d'Anvers, Barth^lenut and other broad, beautifully paved and shaded avenues lined with quadruple rows of trees, whose foliage casts grateful shadows over the crowd of tinelj'-dressed women and handsome men, stately carriages and equestrians who take their pleasure, like Frenchmen, gaily. On the tine summer evenings they crowd the parks and boulevards which lie on top of the old ramparts, which Avere leveled at the beginning of this cent- ury shortly after the battle of Waterloo. Not only the boulevards themselves with their imposing public buildings with stately facades which flank the broad avenues, not only the Palais du Roi which lies opposite the beau- tiful park that ^Maria Theresa laid out, not only the countless hotels, theaters, bright shop- windows and general out-of-door life and gayety remind the tourist of the Paradise of good Americans, but even the language itself, particu- larly in the north and east parts of the city, is Parisian French, although the lower chisses speak Flemish and Walloon. In the magniticence of its rich public build- ings with their delicate aspiring Gothic architec- ture, their countless arrowy spires, sculptured facades, and rich stained glass, Brussels resembles CATHEDRAI, OF STE. GlDflJ 78 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. quaint old Rouen rather than Paris. The splendid Gothic Cathedral of Ste. Gudule and St. Michel which rises on an abrupt slope overlooking the lower town rivals St. Ouen and St. ]\laclon. With its niched, sculptured fa9ade, its stained glass windows, which tell almost the whole history of Brussels and the Church, its long-arched aisles, and wonderfully decorated chapels, in which sleep monarchs of France and Burgundy under stately cenotaphs surrounded by rich carvings of Flena- ish oak — this is the glory of Brussel's old town. It was begun hi 1220, on the site of an old church which received Sainte Gudule's " reliques " in 1047. Scarcely less imposing is the superb Hotel de ViUe where, in 1555, the abdication of the world-renowned monarch, Charles V. took place. Towering high above the stately mansions for- merly occupied by the " blue-blood " of Brabant, its splendid tower three hundred and seventy feet high pierces the brilliant sky like an arrow ; poised in flight over its openwork spire the gilded glittering figure of the Archangel Michael sixteen feet high serves as protector; but, devout as were the good Roman Catholics of Brussels, both past and present, theii" militant saint could not ward off the lightning which damaged the Gothic spire slightly in 1863. Scarcely less wonderful in its artistic spirit is the needle-architecture of Brussels ; the deli- cate spires and points of Brussels lace with their exquisite design rival the towers of Ste. Gudule. In the manufacture of this marvel of Flemish handiwork one hundred and thirty thousand women are employed in Belgium, and the value of their work is estimated at about fifty million francs annually. Formerly even the net which held the delicate flowers was made by hand ; now they are sewed on tulle, but the flowers themselves are laboriously woven either mth the needle or the bobbin. Brussels lace is the finest lace in the world ; a piece of old Brussels point only an incli wide contains twenty-two thousand meshes in a yard, every one of which was laboriously made by hand. This lace was the heritage of royalty. Counts of Haiijault and Li^ge, Dukes and Duchesses of Brabant and Burgundy were proud to number it among their heirlooms. Vandyck, the pupil of Rubens and the Court-Painter of the crowned heads of Europe, was passionately fond of tlris lace and immortalized many a piece of rich Brussels point on his canvas. In the Music de Pein- tnre, the finest collection of art in Belgium, with its Rubens Room, its Van Eycks, its works by Quinten Mat3-s (the blacksmith painter) and many other noted examples of the early Flemish school, there are some fine Vandycks and Rembrandts, although some finer examples are found in the Palace of the Due d'Arenberg, formerly the palace of the unfortunate Count Egmont, the victim of Alva's hate. Here in the old market-plane of Brussels, in front of the Hotel de Ville, twenty-five of the nol)lest high-born heroes of the Netherlands were beheaded. The window is still pointed out from which the Duke of Alva laughingly leaned to see his victims" heads roll on the ground. So, with all its gay present, Brussels has had a sad and gloomy past, with fierce and bloody struggles for liberty. Her strong Roman Catholic religious zeal, which fought the Reformation aided by the Spanish government niateriall}' contributed to the development of art. When the last religious census was taken, in 1878, out of a total Belgian population of 5,476,888 (in tliis densely peopled little kingdom, which is only one hundred and seventy-nine miles long and one hundred and ten wide), there were but fifteen thousand Protestants and three thousand Jews. She has fought hard for her faith and her freedom; she has known how to be gay in the midst ui bloodshed and tumult. The house of the famous Duchess of Richmond's ball is still pointed out where " There was a. soiiiul of revelr.v In- iiiirlit. And Beljriunrs capital liad gathered there Her Beauty and lier Chivalry, and bright The lamps shone o'er fair woiueu and brave men; A thousand hearts beat happily." Only nine miles distant is the Field of Waterloo, from whence the " cannon's opening roar " broke on the guy life of the brilliant capital. To-day that field with its ghastly memories stands like a skeleton at the feast and is visited by thousands ; while the gay life of Brussels relieved .against this sombre background stands out more brilliantly. TOURISTS ABROAD. NAPLES. S' EE Naples and die I " the Italian saying runs ; but not all travelers agree to the Italian credo^ though none may dissent from the city's claim to beauty if situation. Naples disputes with Constantinople the claim of occupying the most beautiful site in Europe. " To see Naples as we saw it in the early dawn from far up tlie side of Vesuvius," says Mark f ^vain, •• is to see a picture of wonderful beauty. At that distance its dingy balconies looked white — and so, rank on rank of balconies, win- dows and roofs, they piled themselves up from the blue ocean till the colossal castle of St. Elmo topped the grand white pyramid and gave the picture symmetry, emphasis and completeness." Naples is, for its size, the most densely-peopled city in Europe. Within a circumference of barely eighteen miles, six liundred thousand people dwell. The result is an over-crowded city, with narrow streets and high houses — and people everywhere. " Naples," says Mr. Stockton, "•is one of the noisiest, liveliest cities in the world. The people are very fond of the open air and they are in the streets all day and nearly all night. The shoemaker brinfjs his bench out on the sidewalk and sits there mer- rily mending his shoes. Women come out in front of their houses and sew, take care of theii- babies and often make their bread and cook tlieir dinners in the open street. In the streets all sorts and conditions of men, women and children work, play, buy, sell, walk, talk, sing or cr}- ; here the cai-riages are driven furiously up and down, the drivers cracking theii- whips and shouting : here move about the little donkeys, with piles of vegetables or freshly cut grass \\\)oi\ their backs, so that nothing but their heads and feet are seen ; and here are to be found noise enough and dirt enough to make some people very soon satisfied with their walk through the streets of Naples." These streets of Naples, paved with volcanic basalt, are very narrow, very noisy and very slippery. " They are generally about wide enough for one wagon," says Mark Twain, " and how they do swarm with people I It is Broadway repeated in every street, in every court, in every alley ! There are seldom any sidewalks, and when there are, they are not wide enough to pass a person on without caroming on him. So everybody walks in tlie streets — and wliere the street is wide enough carriages are forever dashing along." Not all the streets, however, are Jiarrow. The Via di ^oma, or the Toledo, as it is more frequently called, is broad, straight, and well-paved, and lined with fine buildings : the Riviere di Chiaja is a fine, broad street in the city's fashionable quar- ter ; and along the Public Gardens of the Villa Nazionale runs the chief promenade of the city. The houses of Naples are large, towering and solidly constructed. " I honestly believe," says Mark Twain, " a good majority T)f them are a hundred feet high ! and the solid brick walls are seven feet through. You go up nine flights of stairs before you get to the first floor ; — no, not nine, but there or thereabouts I "' In reality they are five or six story houses, covered with stucco and adorned with large balconies ; while in many cases the roof is a broad flower garden. The Castle of St. Elmo, which commands the city from the hill above, is a fortress of massive construction, and is four centuries old. The churches of the city are remarkable lather for richness 80 A GIRL OK NAPLES. GREAT ( rriKS OF Till-: WOKI.D. 81 of internal decoration than i'or archilectiiral beauty, and the I'oreniost l)iul(ling of Naples in inter- est is, undoubtedly, its famous Museum — the Mimeo Burhonivo — whieh eontains valuable sculp- tures, works of art and rare and euiious thiny;s — ehief amonj^- whieh are the famous Farnese col- lection and the ancient "finds " of Pompeii and Ihfrciilaua'um. Naples is the second port of Italy. Its principal manufactures are coral goods, kid gloves and macaroni. Its chief attraction to visitors is its remarkable and historic suburbs — Pompeii and IlerculantCum, Vesuvius, Sorrento, Capri with its lilue Grotto, liaite, Puteoli, the Luciine l/.ike and the marvellously beautiful Hay of Naples, where, as Dr. Wight says, "beautiful land and lovely sea meet in sweet, passionate embrace." In no other city of the world, it is asserted, do opulence and poverty, magnificence and misery so jostle one another : " Naked boys of nine years and the fancy dressed cliildien of luxury ; shreds and tatters and brilliant uniforms ; jackass-carts and state-carriagefe ; l)eggars, princes and bishops jostle each other on every street." So Mark Twain tells us, and ftiither he reports : " At six o'clock every evening all Naples turns out to drive on the Riviere di Chiaja (whatever that may be) and for two hours one may stand there and see the motliest and worst mixed procession go by that ever eyes beheld. Princes (there are moie princes than policemen in Naples) who live up seven flights of stairs and don't own any principalities will keep a carriage and go hungr}'' ; and clerks, mechanics and milliners will go without their dinneis and squander the money on a hack-ride in the Chiaja ; the rag-tag and rubbish of the city stack themselves up, to the number of twenty or thirty, on a rickety little go-cart hauled by a donkey not bigger than a cut, and they drive in the Chiaja ; dukes and bankers in sumptuous carriages and with gorgeous drivers and footmen turn out, also, and so the furious procession goes. For two hours rank and wealth, and obsctirity and poverty clatter along side by side in the wild procession and then go home, serene, happy and covered with glory ! " To-day progress and the steam-engine — Kossuth's " democrat " — are making even Naples more manly if less picturesque. " The Southern Italians," says Dr. Wight, " are beginning to learn how to toil and consequently the dolce far niente is losing its charms. Even the lazzaroni are rubbing their eyes and looking out upon a new dawn. Beggars still swarm the streets and highways but they are growing less importunate, and signs are not wanting that the i-ace may in time become extinct. As I entered the Bay of Naples I met one of the great ironclads with its 100-ton guns coming out. This omen was good and significant of many things. At Reggio and Messina the screaming of the locomotive whistles announced the transition from a dead and bar- barous past to the living present and the enlightened future." BUDAPEST. PERCHED on its porphyry rock high above the "beautiful blue Danube" the fortress of old Buda looks down upon the great city — its twin and larger half, that stretches away from its rocky acropolis, and lining both sides of the noble river makes into a joint municipality — the double city of Budapest. It is the New York-Brooklyn of Europe. Buda on the right bank of the Danube and Pesth on the left, connected by a beautiful suspension bridge and filled with all the life and labor of a great city, were united as one municipality in 1873 and oflficially styled Budapest. This double city is now the capital of Hungary. It is the second residence of the Emperor of Austria and is the seat of the Hungarian ministry, diet, supreme court and Hungarian militarj- forces. " As Paris is sometimes said to be France, so may Pesth," says Prof. Muirhead, " with almost greater truth be said to be Hungary. Its composite population is a faithful reflection of the heter- ogeneous elements in the empire of the Hapsburgs, and the trade and industrj- of Hungary are centralized at Pesth in a way that can scarcely be affirmed of any other European capital." 82 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Budapest stands second only io Vienna in the Austrian-Hungary land in commercial impor- tance. It has an ex'tensive trade and growing manufactures and is a large handler and consumer of the grain and wine of the surrounding country. It is one of the most notable of European cities in picturesqueness of situation. Modern Pesth with its multitude of low-roofed buildings lills and overruns the sand}- plain while beyond the bridge ancient Buda, fortress-crowned and backed by vine-clad mountains, is the counterpart of a jjicture that long remains an agreeable memoiy with tourist and visitor, and a perennial boast to the loyal inhabitants of the double city. Three bridges now span the Danube ; the city is divided into ten municipal districts — three belonging to Buda and seven to Pesth — ^ and the joint population exceeds four hundred thousand. The principal streets are broad boulevards, tree-shaded and asphalt paved : the houses for the most part are low and unpretentious, although some are notable exceptions — one especially, the "New Building," in the Leopold Stadt covering ;ts much ground as a city square — while on the Danube frontage there stretches for two and a half miles from the Margarethenbriicke to the cus- tom house an unbroken line of imposing white buildings. Wlrile loyally Austrian Budapest is even more Magyar — loyally Hungarian. Its people are good-natured, hospitable and fond of luxury and display. Its Academy of Sciences and the National Museum are handsome modern buildings with large libraries anil valuable collections. The University of Pesth has over two thousand students and a librar}- of one hundred and twenty thousand volumes. Tlie public baths of Budapest are famous throughout Europe, and its parks, promenades and public gardens are beautiful, picturescjue and delightful resorts. MELBOURNE. THE city of Melbourne.'' says the Au- stralian writer, Mr. Sutherland, "is without exception the most striking instance of the apti- tude of the Anglo- Saxon race for colo- nization." The story of its settle- ment and growth would certainly seem to loear out his statement. Our American Chicago is its only rival in the world in rapidity of growth. It was not till the opening year of the present century, so we are assured, that the first European sailed through the narrow entrance to Port Phillip, and it was only in 1835 that the first white man made his habitation there. To-day, where in 1835, John Pascoe Fawkner, sailing up the Yarra in his little " Enterprise " laden with materials for a settlement, was stopped by a slight waterfall in a valley, where dense groves of wattle-trees all in bloom loaded the air with perfume, Avhere flocks of white cockatoos whirled aloft at the first stroke of the axe, there stretches for ten miles in one direction and six in another, the streets and public buildings, the shops and homes of fully four hundred thousand people ; and the city of Melbourne, the capital of Victoria — the smallest but wealthiest colony in GOVEKXMKXT mil.DIM, 84 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Australia — is proving in the Southern Hemisphere as has already been proven in the Northern, the ability of the Anglo-Saxon. to build strongly, solidh*, swiftly. Situated at tlie head of the large bay of Port Phillip in the extreme south-eastern corner of the mighty island of Australia, it lines the shores of the bay for a distance of over ten miles, though tlie part known as the "city" proper is on the noith branch of the Yarra River some three miles inland. Its three principal streets, running parallel to the river, are Bourke, Collins and Flindejs, and aie devoted respectively to mercantile houses, the popular " shops " and the maritime offices and warehouses. Melbourne, though not of imposing appearance from the sea, improves vastly on acquaintance. Its public buildings are located on elevated positions where they are seen to best advantage, its streets are wide and clean, and beneath its usually clear blue sky its universal appearance is that of prosperity, activity and comfort. " Melbourne," says Dr. Wight, returning from a visit to it in 1887, " is quite equal to San Francisco in wealth, in solidity and splendor of buildings and in business activity. Collins Street is one of the finest thoiougli fares in the world, quite equal to any two miles of Broadway. Mel- bourne's Public Library of one hundred and thirty thousand volumes, its University, its Exposi- tion Building, its new Houses of Parliament, its Inns of Court, its Observatory, its unrivalled botanical gardens and other institutions are, considering the age of the city, actually phenomenal." Among the " other institutions " in Melbourne referred to by Dr. Wight may be mentioned the liandsome and ingenious markets, the Hospital, the Cathedral of St. Patrick, the Scotch Church in Collins Street, the thirty large school-buildings and many of the business houses. The parks of the city are both extensive and handsome. Public instruction is free and Melbourne Univer- sity has a staff of ten professors and twelve lecturers with more than four hundred students. The commerce and manufactures of Melbourne are considerable and constantly increasing. The imports and exports for 1889 aggregated fully two hundred millions of dollars; the intellec- tual life of the city is flourishing ; it has three morning and three evening dailies, while the climate and the cost of living make the city a most promising home for the enterprising business man, mechanic or laborer. In this latter respect all visitors agree. "In no land," says Dr. Wight, "have I seen the toilers, the real wealth-creators so well clothed, so well fed, so well housed, or their general con- dition in life so good. Comfort being generally diffused there is nothing on which the destructive and criminal forms of socialism can feed and grow. The })liilanthropist can feast his eyes on the pleasing spectacle of requited toil. It is worth a journey to the other side of the globe to behold the blessed sight." And Mr. Sutherland asserts that. " there is no city where more has been done for the working classes or where they have niiule so good a use of their advantages. It is one of the peculiar features of Melbourne that about three out of every four mechanics who have reached middle life own the neat cottages they occupy." LYONS. LYONS is a city with a past, a present and a future. It dates back as one of the most ancient and most important of the Roman cities of Gaul ; its industries have made it one of the leading manufacturing cities of France ; its position and its trade will make it one of the most flourishing and progressive cities of the republic. It is the second city in France in ■size and importance and its position at the confluence of the rivers Rhone and Saone gives it at once picturesqueness of situation and excellent manufacturing facilities. It is a fortified town defended and dominated by " the scarped heights " of Fourvieres, St. Iren^e and Ste. Foy, and contains to-day a population of ovei- four hundred thousand — busy, industrious and well-trained workmen. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 85 It is the birth-place of three Roman empLTors and, what is more important, of the great silk industry of France, tlie mean annual value of this important product of the looms of Modern Lyons aggregating fully two hundred and lifty million dollars. Founded sixty yeai-s before Christ by Greek refugees it was given its earliest importance by Agrippa and Augustus. It was burned by that royal " fire-bug," Nero; but, as was customary with him in adjusting insurance claims in his burned districts, he rebuilt the city in a st3-le of much magnificence, and from that day, though suffering many of the changes and clianc^s of so impor- tant a military post it has advanced in size, wealth and condition. In common with many of the European cities Lyons has an old and a new town — the former crowded, nar- row and confined ; the latter roomy, well-built and archi- tecturally adorned. Thirteen bridges span the busy Sa8ne to the faubourg of Vaise ; ten cross the Rhone and afford communication with the well- built section of Brotteaux. Lyons is provided with many fine and famous buildings — its Bourse, its City Hall, it»> Art Museum, its Academy, or " Great Seminary," its hospital, dating back thirteen hundred years, its Library and its store of ancient ruins and remains make it one of the most interesting as it is one of the most attractive of French cities. Besides the great silk interest — which employs more than seventy thousand looms and over one hundred and forty thousand weavers — Lyons has many important industries. Its dye and chemical works, breweries, pork factories, engineering and printing establishments and hat factoiies are among the most important ; and b}- no means the least is its trade in chestnuts which are known in the markets of the world as Maroons de Lyon. Both the SaSne and the Rhone are navigable, and the barge and steamboat traffic are large in tlie seasons when the rivers are at their highest. BELOW TIIK UKIGHTS. WARSAW. WARSAW I the unfortunate capital of unfortunate Poland. What memories does not its name call up. Memories of that fervid novel of our youth — the tearful story of the tearful though princely Thaddeus ; recollections of the fire and force which our school- boy voices knew when rolling out in declamation the burning apostrophe of Campbell : " Oh, bloorliest picture in the book of Time I Sarniatia fell, unwept, without a crime; Founil not a gcuci'ous friend, a pitying foe, Strengtli in her arm nor mercy in licr woe. Dropped from her nerveless grasp the shattered spear, Closed her bright eye and curbed her high career. Hope for a season bade the earth farewell. And Freedom shrieked as Kosciusko fell ! " And yet to-day, in spite of its dismal fortunes of a century ago, Warsaw, with its population of four hundred and fifty thousand, its beautiful river, its ample communications and its com- merce, its university and its scientific societies, its palaces and numerous places of amusement. 86 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Warsaw, according to Mr. Kropatkine. is one of the most pleasant as well as one of the most animated cities of Eastern Europe. In Russia, he asserts, it is excelled in importance by the two Russian capitals only ; and doubtless it would have attained even a larger population and a yet higher place in the world of commerce and intellect, were it not for its sad and checkered history and the foreign domination of which the traveler is reminded at every step. Although by the acts of this " foreign domination " Warsaw is to-day only the chief town of the Government of Warsaw, a division of the Russian empire, its beautiful situation, its central location, its direct connection with the great cities of Northern and Eastern Europe, its facilities for trade and manufacture, the superiority of its engineers and the skill of its artisans, still keep it a flourishing and progressive city in spite of Russian tyrannj' and persecution. Warsaw stands upon a terrace, one hundred feet in height, that stretches away to the west- ward and descends by steep slopes to the Vistula flowing below it. It is inclosed by a rampart and a fosse, is entered by ten gates and defended by a vast citadel. The city is semicircular in plan, with a diameter, along the Vistula, of nearly five miles. Its streets are full of life and action and are lined with many fine buildings. There are in Warsaw one hundred and sixt}' palaces, more than two hundred cathedrals, churches and monasteries, and many schools, hospitals, scientific societies, gymnasia and museums. One of its pleasure grounds — the Saski Ogrod or Saxon Garden — is one of the most beautiful public gardens in Europe. Its theaters are famous, and the open-air theater, made from an artificial ruin in a great garden laid out in an old bed of the Vistula, is the pride of Warsaw. The chief life of the city is in and about the castle on Sigismund Square, from which four main avenues diverge. The Krakowskie Przeilmiescie is Warsaw's finest street, and boasts many beautiful buildings. The old town to the north of Sigismund Square is almost mediaeval in its old buildings and narrow streets, but the modern city is ample, cleanly and beautiful. The trade of Warsaw is large, and its industries are flourishing. Its suburbs are historic, and are full of palaces, villas and noted battle-fields. It is one of the most interesting of the cities of Europe. BIRMINGHAM. THE American Indian provides himself with food or defends himself in war by the unerring use of a Birmingham rifle, the swift horsemen who scour the plains of South America urge on their steeds with Birmingham spurs and deck their gaud}- jackets with Birmingham buttons ; the negro laborer hacks down the sugar cane with Birmingham hatchets and presses the luscious juice into Birmingham vats and coolers ; the dreamy German strikes a light for his ever- lasting pipe with a Birmingham steel and tinder carried in a Birmingham box ; the emigrant cooks his frugal dinner in a Birmingham saucepan over a Birmingham stove, and caiTies his little luxu- ries in tins stamped with the name of a Birmingham maker." This is the vivid fashion in which Elihu Burritt, the " learned blacksmith," describes the chief center of the metallic manufacturing world ; after ]\Ianchester, the most important industrial town in all England, is Birmingham. Oaly sixteen miles from Warwick and Kenilworth, scarcely twenty from drowsy Stratford- upon-Avon, what a contrast is there between this busy manufacturing town on the river Rea with its mass of red brick houses crowning the undulating hills that rise from the river, and in turn dominated over by the tall, smoked factory chimneys that belch forth clouds of smoke by night a'.id by day, and the quiet rural beauty that encircles Warwick Castle and the stately towers of Kenilworth ! Yet Birmingham is not so black as she is painted. With her four hundred and forty -seven thousand inhabitants busy day and night, more than one-fourth of them work-people and artisans, making guns and rifles, moulding buttons (of which seven hundred and fifty millions are made in A MAHEIAGE CEREMONY IX AVARSAW 88 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. one year), with her iron-roUino-, her electro-plating, her lami^vmaking, her manufactures of steam- engines, bolts, screws, glass and crystal, lier bronze statues and her art metal-Avoi-ks, her implements of warfare, her bayonets and swords, and her Gillott's steel pens, mightier than the sword — with all this multifarious industr}', Birmingham still has the reputation of being one of the healthiest towns in the United Kingdom. Broad, too, as her new and handsome streets, are her views. Freedom of thought is welcomed with freedom of speech. The Reform Bill of 1832 was cradled in Birmingham ; the red-hot Chartists found their head-quarters there. Now the Radicals hold mau}^ meetings and fervently discuss the wrongs of the laboring man. For more than four hundred and fifty years the laboring men have lived here ; as early as 1538 Birmingham was described as a good market town contain- ing many smiths, " that use to make knives and all mannour of cutting tooles." About this time the De Berminghams, the original lorda of the manor, ceased their connection witli the hamlet ; but their good bones rest in state in the Church of St. Martin, the only building (dating from the thirteenth centuiy) that has any claim to antiquity. If this be the Age of Machiner}-, Birmingham is, indeed, the epitome of the age. The fact cannot be denied that the commercial and artistic spirits are at variance. The true artist habitu- ally outrages the commercial spirit ; how a thing lookis to him is far more important than wliat it costs or what it will bring, while the industrial spirit asks only how to make a thing in the cheap- est possible manner, and then how to go on producing that thing at the lowest possible rate in the greatest possible quantities that tlie market will bear. The tired ai-tist must stop ; his work, pushed beyond the imaginative point, is valueless ; the tired artisan may, nay, he must go on, his work Ls mechanical. It is to the credit of Birmingham tliat in spite of this tendency she has not allowed her industries to dull her brain or crush her spirit — she is wide awake and progressive. For her workingmen she has provid(!d her Birmingham and Midland Institute. Here, in the metal- manufacturing center of the world, a line collection of minerals is open to the study of the artificer and mechanic ; here, too, for a penu}' the hard-working man can listen to lectures that bear directly upon his labor by some of the most celebrated scientific men of the United Kingdom. The Free Library, the Art Gallery and Museum with its wonderful water-colors by Davicl Cox, a native of Birmingham (as is also Burne-Jones), the new Scliool of Art built in 1885, the first municipal school of art in England, are all educators and upliftere of the masses. Birmingham believes that in knowledge is strength. A morning may profitably be spent in Mason College with its six liundred students interested in its splendid laboratories and library of eighteen thousand volumes. Three hundred thousand dollars scarcely cover the cost of tlie handsome biick edifice while its endowment of seven hundred thousand dollars more gives it excellent opportunities. Another morning may be pleasantly spent among the " ancient and lionorables," visiting the statues of tlie great men of Birmingliam wlio have left the memoiy of their good deeds and dis- coveries behind them. In front of the Council House is the statue of Joseph Priestley, the dis- coverer of oxvgen. The Post Office is adorned with a statue of Sir Rowland Hill, who spent much of his boyhood here ; in the square at the back of the imposing Madeleine-like Town Hall are the statues of Geo. Dawson the essayist and lecturer and also of the founder of Mason College. James Watt, to whom Birmingham owes more perhaps than any one man, hiis a fine statue in ^ Ratcliff Place ; his house with many interesting relics is still .standing at Heathfield in the suburbs and can readily be reached by cable "tram-cars"; under a stateh' monument, designed by Chantrey, the great inventor sleeps calmly in the parish churc li of Handsworth, a manufacturing suburb in which his works formerly stood. To-day Birmingham, ^\•ith her splendid grammar school endowed l)y Edward VI.. lier college, her art schools, museums and libraries, her improved dwellings for the poor and her studied sanitary improvements, steps proudly to the forefront of the English manufactui-ing towns. She claims to be '' the most open and hospitable to ideas, the most fully developed example of the English city of the future — in a word, the city wherein the spirit of th»iiew time is most widely, variously and energetically assuming visible form and shape." If lier actions are co-orchnate with her ambitious Birminsfham has a nreat industrial future before her. Tin; risii makkkt at Amsterdam. (After a painting by II. nemnunn.) AMSTERDAM. THE Venice of the North, Amsterdam, Holland's commercial capital, lies on the Y or Ij, an arm of the Zuyder Zee at its confluence \A-ith the Amstel. Ninety islands, instead of the one hundred and seventeen of Venice, make up the city which is protected against the inroads of the Zuyder Zee by the great dam first constructed in 1204. Three hundred bridges, (ophaalhruygen^ drawbridges, and (^drauibruyyen^ swingbridges span the canals large and small, while a giant canal, the Buitensingel, six and one half miles long, encircles the wall of the semi- circular town. Picture to yourself a low-lying level city, whose tall, narrow, bright-red brick houses with their brilliant white mortar look as if they had been freshly polished, whose narrow gables with their '• pigeon-steps " faoe the street and are frequently ornamented with j^rojecting beams which are used to hoist goods up into the lofts, and whose top is decorated with a curious forked chimney-stack. Let these houses with their shining flights of white marble steps and their liroad, polished windows look at their shining faces reflected in the broad canals at their feet ; let these canals be bordered, as are the Purizen, Keizers and Heeren Gracht, with splendid avenues shaded by fine elms; on the site of the ramparts and the eight and twenty bastions which formerl}- defended the city, plant a row of giant windmills with picturesque outstretched arms, over it all arch a soft sky of fleecy clouds mingled with heaven's own blue reflecting in the canals, a sky such as Cuyp loved and immortalized in his landscapes in the Trippenhuis, a sky such as the great Flemish marine painter of to-day, Clajs, places upon his canvas, and you have a picture of the cheery Dutch town of Amsteidam at its best. Thrift, frugality, neatness sometimes almost degenerating into formalit}'. a steady clinging to the old — the characteristic Dutch virtues — are all exemplified in this typical Dutch town. Vessels unloading at the brick-paved quays and passing up and down the canals, the cheerful creak of the drawbridges, and the general bustle and stir of business almost make the traveler forget that he is treading on what was once a vast quagmire, whose mud had to be lalx>riously filled with i^iles to a depth of fift)' feet until a bed of firm sand was reached. This pile foundation 89 90 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. gave rise to the joking remark of Erasmus that he knew a oily whose inhabitants all lived in the tops of the trees like rooks. It is natural that the center of business should be at the Dam, a large square in the city's center near the ancient dam to which the city owes its origin. Looking out over this square, which is embellished with a lofty monument to the Goddess of Peace, stands the stateljs massive and sober palace which cost over eight million florins, and was formerly used as a Town Hall. Here the wealthy Stadtholders used to assemble ; from tlie liigh tower crowned by a gilded ship emblematic of Amsterdam's flourishing commerce, they could look down, as does the tourist of to-day, over the crowded city with its narrow streets, tree- bordered canals, the countless houses with their quaint-forked chimneys, the forests of masts, the shimmering Ziiyder Zee, the filled-in Haarlemmer Meer and the silvery ribbon of a canal which runs side by side witli tlie high-road that leads from Amsterdam to Haarlem. Hard by the Palace rises the picturesque cruciform Nieuwe Kerk, whose beginning dates from 1408. Here are countless monuments erected to the naval heroes of Holland, conspicuous among which is the monument to the gallant Van Speyk who "maintained the honor of his country's flag at the cost of his life." Caught in a fearful storm, the wind had driven his gunboat on the Belgian coast ; a crowd of greedy Belgians called him to haul down his flag and surrender. Preferring death to dishonor and betrayal of his country's trust, the devoted young admii-al replied by instantly firing his pistol into liis powder magazine. A flash, a deafening peal instantly followed; his sliip blew into fragments and friends and foes alike followed the gallant sailor into the other world. The lieroes of Holland's history are immortalized on canvas as well. The Trippenhuis, the finest picture gallery in Holland contains some splendid Rembrandt^ ; liis Night-Watch, eleven by fourteen feet, being his laigest and most celebrated work. Here, too, are priceless Jan Steens, Gerard Dows, Van der Heists, Cuyps, Ruysdaels, Teniers, Van D3'cks and other celebrated can- vases. Private collections too abound to which art-lovere are -freely made welcome ; for a characteristic of the Dutch is their free-hearted hospitality. The only portion of Amsterdam which is not Dutch and polished like "the handle of the big front door " is the Jewish quarter where Oriental faces and costumes abound and Oriental manners as well. Complete religious toleration in the seventeenth century drew the Jews to this great commercial city : one tenth of Amsterdam's inhabitants are Jews and the city has the proud distinction of being the birthplace of Spinoza. The art for which Amsterdam is famous, diamond polishing, was brought here by the Portuguese Jews, who to-day almost monopolize the trade. Tlie Avealthy Jews of to-day with their ten synagogues form an important factor in the city's life ; in them the Stadtholdei's have always found firm friends. In return the city has treated them, as it has all other religious orders with complete toleration ; so that sects and churches of all kinds and conditions of men abound. The unsectarian Society for the Public Welfare which numbers nearly twenty thousand members is a sort of a giant Young Men's Christian Association, Humane Society and Sunday-school Publishing House combined. One characteristic of the Holland Dutch is the tenacity with which old customs and costumes are adhered to ; even on the busj- qua5-s of Amsterdam, where the ships are unloading their rich freights of camphor and indigo, sugar and spice and all the oriental products of the Dutch colonies of India and Africa, the tourists may encounter the ponderous figure of woman with her dozen stiffly starched skirts, with her horse-slioe band of gold across her forehead and great rosettes of metal at the side l)elow the cap of rich lace with hanging lappets. Sometimes the lace cap is replaced by a metal skull-cap usually of gold. As picturesque as the costumes are the carefully cultivated gardens and villas outside the city, the paradises of the Dutch gentry, where art has done all she can to make up for Nature's deficiencies. Here, descendants or relatives of Mynheer Diedrich Knickerbocker may be seen placidly smoking their long pipes under the shade of ancestral willows beside their houses which are often labeled "Lust en Rust" (pleasure in repose), " Vreugdebij Vrede " (joy with peace) and other bucolic sentiments. The busy American, possibly a " Cooky " who is doing Holland and has not time to half possess his soul before he dies, may well look with envy on these stolid, solid Dutch burofhers of Amsterdam and the vicinity. ^-r^ii^^^' IN AMSTERDAM. MADRID. w 'HEN Charles the Fifth, King of Spain, Emperor of Germany and Lord of the Indies — '• the mightiest monarch in Christendom " — found his royal system benefited by the health-giving airs that were Avafted down from the Guadarrama iVIountains and made the hunting lodge of Majrit, or IMadrid, his royal residence, the future of the little hamlet was assured, and from a royal hunting seat it has grown to be the capital city of Spain, the home of fully four hundred thous- and people and the largest and leading city of the kingdom. Situated almost in the center of Spain, upon a small branch of the Tagus River it crowns a collection of sandhills at an elevation of some twenty-three hundred feet, giving it a salubiious situation and an extended view. The cit}- is almost square in shape, and three of the ancient gateways that formerly pierced the wall that defended the city still exist. What was the east gate, or Gate of the Sun (Puerta del Sol), is now the center of the city — the favorite lounging and business quarter, from which diverge North, East, South and West, the principal streets of the city. The Puerta del Sol, says the Italian traveler De Amicis, " is a stupendous sight. It is an immense semi-circular square (surrounded by high buildings) into which open, like ten torrents, ten great streets, and from every street comes a continuous, noisy wave of people and carriages, and everything seen there is in proportion with tlie vastness of the locality. The sidewalks are as wide as streets, the caf<;s large as squares and on every side there is a dense and mobile crowd, a deafening racket, an indescribable gayety and brightness in the features, gestures and colors, which make you feel that neither the populace nor the city is strange to you." Madrid has few fine or even notable buildings, "No great places nor ancient monuments of art," says De Amicis, " meet the eye ; but there are wide, clean, gay streets, flanked l)y houses painted in vivid colors, bi"oken here and tliere b}' squares of a thousand different forms, laid out almost at random and eveiy square con- tains a garden, a fountain and statuette. Every now and then there are cross-roads of five, six and even eight streets and here there is a con- tinuous mingling of carriages and people ; the walls are covered for some distance with play- bills ; in the shops there is an incessant coming and going ; the cafes are crowded and on every side there is the bustle of a large city. The street Alcalii, which is so wide that ii seems almost like a rectangular square, divides 92 TIIK nOV-KINd (>\- SPAIN. THE PALACE OF COXGRESS. IN THE BULL-CIRCUS, MADRID. 94 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Madi'id in half, from the Pueita del Sol toward the east, and ends in an immense plain that ex- tends all along the side of the city and contains gardens, walks, squares, theaters, bull-circuses, triumphal arches, museums, small palaces and fountains." The fashionable promenade of Madrid is the Prado. Although not the longest or the most beautiful of the avenues of Madrid, it is the most famous. It is, properlj- speaking, a very broad but not very long avenue flanked by minor ones, shut in at either end by enormous stone fount- ains, its most frequented part being hedged in on the sides bv thousands of chairs and hundreds of benches belonging to water and orange venders who rent them to sj)ectators. " Much paper," says De Amicis, " could be covered in attempting to describe the great suburbs, gates, promenades outside the city, the squares and historical streets of Madrid; its superb caf^s ; its gorgeous shops ; its spacious markets, barracks for an army, and its great royal palace, in which the Quirinal and Pitti could hide themselves without fear of discovery." The royal palace, "an immense pile on a hill" — is of white Colmenar granite, one hundred feet high and four hundred and sevent}' feet square, a pretentious and extensive edifice. The fine new Bank of Spain, the Naval Museum, the Madrid Armory, the edifice in which assembles the Cortes or Congress of the kingdom, the royal opera house, the " marvellous " picture-gallery and some of the palaces of the grandees or princes of Spain are among the most noticeable of the buildings in Madrid. As regards promenades, theaters and spectacles Madrid is, according to a recent visitor, one of the first cities of the world. The Spaniard is fond of shows and the excitements of a spectacle. Hence, even more than to the opera and the theater is the citizen of Madrid, whatever his rank or station, wedded to the display and danger of the bull-fight. " The inauguration of the bull-fights at Madrid," says De Amicis, " is decidedly more important than a change in the ministr3\" The bull-circus, or Plaza de Toros is a large building to the east of the town and accommodates twelve thousand spectators. The finest displays are during the summer, the regular season being inaugurated about the first of April. Madrid is the seat of the art. Here are the great artists, the superb spectacles, the spectators who are experts and the judges who bestow the glory upon the victorious toreros. The entrance of the performers into the great ring of the Madrid circus is picturesque, the fight with tlie infuriated bulls is dramatic, the i14noument is sometimes terrible and tragic. The sport is brutal but exciting and the spectator is carried away by the enthusiasm and rush of the spectacle. But Madrid is not all show and spectacle. It has schools and colleges, learned societies; statesmen, poets, philosophers, charitable institutions, libraries and asylums, and its trade and manufactures, though inconsiderable, are such as support and develop the growing capital of a great though not a progressive kingdom. MARSEILLES. PHOENICIAN, Grecian, Roman, Proven9al and French — the old, old city of Massalia, Mas- silia and Marseilles lias seen and suffered much but, surviving all changes of time, of state, of war and politics, it has grown steadily until it is to-day the third largest city of France and the chief commercial port of the Mediterranean with a population of nearly four hundred thousand and a trade that interests and touches every part of the civilized world. Its leading industry is soap-making, sixty factories being engaged in this cleansing trade; but its sugar, sulphur and petroleum refineries employ a large number of its inhabitants, while its smelting works, its machinery and ship-building establishments, its flour mills, paste factories, brass foundries, glass-works, match, candle and wax-light manufactories and its other minor indus- tries make it a busy, populous and prosperous city. (;i{E.\T (ITIKS OF THE WORM). 9ft (roasting aggregates The port of Mar- seilles, fronting on the (iiilf of Lyons, just east of the mouth of the Rhone, lias an area of foui' huiulred and twen- ty-two acres and aeconi- luodates sea-going and traffic that fully four millions of tons. It is about the old harbor, covering seventy acres, that the main part of the city clusters and this section, known as La Cannebiei-e (the rope-walk), is the busi- est and liveliest por- tion of the town. Here are found the principal caf(!s, shops, hotels, naval and commercial agencies and the Bourse. Despite its antiquity, INIarseilles has no ancient monuments. The cathedral is a modern building of gray Florentine stone, built in the form of a Latin cross, four hundred and sixty feet long : it stands upon the site of an old cathedral which superseded a temple to Diana, itself jjreceded, according to tradition, by a Phoenician altar to Baal. High above the town rises the spire of a more famous church, the celebrated Notre Dame de la Garde, its steeple surmounted by a gilded statue of the Virgin, thirty feet in height. From its spire can be seen the blue Mediterranean, dotted with all sorts of craft from the modern ocean steamers bound for London, Rio Janeiro or New York, to the old-fashioned and queerly-rigged ^lediterranean traders with their low quar- ters and lateen sails; yonder is the famous Chateau d'lf, that the "Count of Monto Cristo "' has made immortal ; to the west are the Chateau d'Eau, the Palace of Art, the picture gallery, the Zoological Gardens and Astronomical Observatory. Mai-seilles has been notably helped by the opening of the Suez Canal and the consequent growth of the Mediterranean trade. Its temperature is delightful ; frost is rare, snow almost un- known and the summer heat is tempered by a cool sea-breeze while even the two unpleasant breezes known as the mistral and the sirocco — a cold north-west and hot south-east wind respect- ively — do much to clarify the air and regulate the temperature. I,A CANNEBIKUK. CAIRO. ALEXANDRIA was too much like a European city to be novel," says Mark T^ain. writing from Cairo. '• We soon tired of it, so we took the cai-s and came up here to ancient Caiio, which is an oriental city and of the completest pattern. There is little about it to disalnise one's mind of the error if he shouhl take it into his head that he was in the heart of Aralna. Stately camels and dromedaries, swarthy Egyptians, and likewise Turks and black Ethiojiians, tnrbiined. sashed and Itlazing in a rich variety of oriental costumes of all sorts of flashy colors, are what one sees on everv hand crowding- the narrow streets and the honev-combed bazaai-s." GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Cairo, the capital of modern Egypt and next to Constantinople the second city of the Muslim world, is situated on the east bank of the Nile, about twenty miles from the Delta. It has a pop- ulation of fully three hundred and sevent^'-five thousand and is to-daj^ as attractive and fas- cinating as the great American humorist found it twenty years ago. Less oriental than Damascus and far less European than Alexandria it is still, as has been said of it, " a city of Arabian Nights, and all who are well up in those veracious chronicles will find themselves perpetualh' localizing the scenes and individualizing the characters of which Scheherazade chattered so well and to such good purpose." Built partly on a plain and partly on the lower slope of the Mokattem Hills the city as seen from the citadel perched on the higher ground " lies like the thousand little turrets of a Gothic edifice at the foot of a steep white mountain." The view from the ramparts of this citadel is superb. Below lies the city with its strongly-built walls and lofty towers, its gardens and squares, its palaces and its mosques, in all the beauty of their delicately-carved domes and minarets cov- ered with fantastic tracery, the port of Bulak, the gardens and palace of Shubra, the broad river studded with islands, the valley of tlie Nile dotted with groups of trees, with the pyramids on the north horizon, the fields, gardens and villas on the west, and on the east the barren cliffs backed by an ocean of sand. Here or hereabouts a city has existed from the time of Joseph and the Pharaohs. The pres- ent town was commenced in the tenth century, was built under the guidance of the stars and placed under the protection of the planet Kahir or Mars. Hence its name El-Kdhireh, the victori- ous. Cairo is still a walled town, pierced with the sevent^'-one gates given it by the Sultan Saladin, but since 1830 the new city has swallowed up the old and it has now a circuit of at least eight or nine miles. New streets have been cut through the crowded districts ; the Esbekuyah or principal square of the city is the center of its European life and the site of its public buildings ; gas and water liave been introduced and though, in spite of all these mod- ern innovations, the city still retains its oriental character, the change has been sufficient to give a more progres- sive air to its belongings and its life. The town is walled off into quar- ters which take their names from their occupants, and a canal intersects the city, distributing water to its different sections. The houses of the Avealthier citizens are spacious and often elabor- ate ; tliose of the poorer classes are but miserable mud hoveLs, with filthy courts, dilapidated windows and tat- tered awnings. The most notable of the build- ings of Cairo are the Citadel, over- looking the town, and from the ram- parts of which Emin Bey, the last of the Mamelukes, took liis famous leap for life, tlie palace of the Khedive, the , .- , -'\^' ■- ^-^^^^^^-'-i:^'^ :^^-'=^'-^^^^zr^'S'':^^z~-- mosque of Mehemet Ali, the mosques > ~^ '"^^-^^^.^i'i-^'^'^^s^"^'^*' of Tulun, of Sultan El Hakim, of A STUKET IN CAIRO. Al Azhar (•' the splendid "), and of GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 97 VIEW FKO.M THE CITADEL OF CAIRO. Sultan Kalaoon ; the Opera House, the French Theater and the Hippodrome owe tlieir exi.stence to European influence. The most interesting phice in Caiio is undoubtedly tlic Bulak Museum in which is kept the remarkable collection of Egyptian antiquities commenced by the French savant, M. Mariette, and since added to by other Eg3'ptologists. The Pyramids and the Sphinx are but an hour and a half distant from Cairo. The trade and commerce of this capital of Egj-pt are of no little extent and value. The}- are confined largely, however, to the transit of goods from upper Egypt, from Asia and from Europe. Some manufactories are in operation, but the interest and chief life of the city lie in its oriental cliaracter. As a place of residence it is hot and subject to frequent epidemics — an evil which only progressive European sanitation can remove. MADRAS. MADRAS is to-day the center of English power in southeastern India and has an historic existence of but little more than two centuries. It is the capital of the Madras presi- dency — a province of the English Empire of India and has a population of a little more than four hundred thousand. The city is noticeable neither for architectural adornment^ nor increasing trade, and although third in commercial importance among the ports of India, is being rapidly outstripped both in trade and in population by its rival on the western coast — Bomba}-. ^ladras does not possess a single handsome street and has but few imposing buddings. " Seen from the roadstead," says Dr. Hunter, '' the fort, a row of merchants" offices, a few spires and public buildings are all that meet the eye."' The city is divided into (1) the Black Town, an ill-built, densely populated section of about a mile square — the business part of the town ; (2) the government departments, fronting the sea ; (3) the native quarters with strange, unpronounceable names; (4) the Eurasian quarter, just west of the Black Town, and the suburbs adorned with hand- some European mansions; and (5), south of the Black Town, the European quarters and the home of the " aristocracy." 98 GHEAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. IX THK BLACK TOWX, MADRAS. The strength of the city lies in its wciilth accumulated in the past and in the fact that it is the governmental headquarters for the vast presidency of Madras — a province covering one liun- dred and forty thousand square miles and containing a population of over thirty millions. Its trade is slight, its industries decaying, its enterprises unprosperons. The city of Madras is to- daj' rather a military than a commeri-ial capital, and lias neither the rank nor the importance of so European a capital as Calcutta, nor so pushing a commercial city as Bombay. RIO DE JANEIRO. THE capital of what is no4v the Repul)lic of Brazil is one of the most beautifully located of all the great cities of the world. " Nature," says a recent writer, " has been too lavish in her bounty of beauty for the welfare of Kio." The city enjoys almost unequalled advantages in situation and climate. Its harbor shares with that of Sydney the honor of being the finest in the world. Though it extends inland for seventeen miles, has an extreme bieadth of twelve miles, and is so vast in extent that it is said to be capable f)f accommodating all the navies of the world, it is completely landlocked, the entrance being onl)- a mile wide. To the left of this entrance stands the Sugailoaf Mountain, rising abruptly twelve hundred feet from the sea. The first glimpse of Hio, according to a recent observer, is disappointing, but there is an afterglow of enthusiasm. The old town lies on a level plain between two ranges of high hills. Castle Antonio and Santa Thereza on one side, and Bento and Livramento on the other. The streets are narrow, even the Ouvidor, the Broadway of Kio, being hardly more than a paved lane, and the facades of shops and the more ambitious granite and marble churches and public build- ings are not impressive. It is not until the traveler has gone about among the suburbs that his entlmsiasni is excited. Then Rio takes complete possession of the imagination and remains a joy forever in memory. The city itself stands on the west shore of the harbor, about four miles from its mouth. It consists of two portions — the Old Town, which is laid out in squares, the streets being narrow and GREAT CITIKS OF TIIK WORLD., it'.i ill-l);ive(.l, iind tlu' houses (l)uilt of giiinite for tlie most part) geuerall}- two stories liioli ; juul the New, which is much bet- ter huilt, and is well- lit with gas. These two portions of the city are separjiteil from one another by an immense square or park, the Campo (le Santa xVnna, in which stand many of the prin- cipal buildings. The Cathedral of Nossa Sen- hora da Gloria, which is a conspicuous object in the panorama below, stands on a lofty hill on the south side of the city, but, like the other churches of the city, possesses no particular architectural merit. Among the other noticeable buildings are the Hospital of Misericordia, the Public Library, the Academy of Medicine, and the College of Dom Pedro the Second. Mr. I. N. Ford, one of the latest observei"s in Brazil's capital assures u« that " of the archi- tecture of Kio, it may be said that it reproduces the general effects of other Brazilian coast towns, with more ambitious lines of ornamentation and quieter tones of color. Most of the buildings are old-fashioned, with rough stone walls, plastered on the outside or decorated with Portuguese tiles. Some modern buildings are seen, the new Custom House being the most pretentious among them. The churches are numei'ous and plain. The Senate and Deputies' Chambers are small, and not impressive. The ]\Iint is something better, and the Market is fairly good : but the public buildings, on the whole, are disappointing. The best streets are well lUO UAliltOU AND SITOAnLOAF MOl'XTAIX. naiflip»j ■^m^ •<>> •^ lUO DE JAXEIRO. 100 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. paved ; bi'oken cobble-stones abound in the poor quarter. Rio is well-lighted with street lamps. It is a city of great commercial importance, rivalled only b}' Buenos Ayres." The Botanical Garden, seven miles out, is one of the chief attractions of the city. The Passeio Publico is a beautiful and well-kept garden and is one of the most popular of the city's breathing-places. One side fronts upon the bay and commands extensive views from an elevated terrace, especially of Sugarloaf and the harbor entriince. It is thronged with promenaders early in the evening and is one of the most charming spots in Rio. The National Library, one of the finest institutions in the country, fronts upon this public garden, and tlie Casino is close by. " Rio," says Mr. Fprd, " is a city of numerous attractions where one can live in comfort and even luxury for nine months in the year, and the remaining three are not nearly so bad as they are represented. When there is pestilence epidemic in the town Petropolis and suburbs that are healthful at all times are accessible places of refuge."' A JAl'AXKSK CAUKIAGK. TIIK .lIMtlKlSlIA. OSAKA. OSAKA, or Ozaka, is one of the three imperial cities of Japan. It was made a capital by Hide-Yoshi, " eldest son of the God of War," in 1583 and was opened to foreign trade in 1868. It has grown rapidly in trade and importance in recent years and is outstripping tlie older city of Kioto — ^^witli which it is now connected by railway. Osaka is the Japanese Venice. It is situated in the southern part of the great island of Niphon and on both sides of the River Agi and is cut into sections by river branches and canals. The streets are not broad but are regular and well kept. There are nearly two thousand Buddhist and Shinto temples in Osaka, the largest of them being the Buddhist Tennoj which covers an immense area in the south-east portion of the city and from whose fine pagoda a fine outlook is obtained. The castle, the mint and the arsenal are GKEAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. lul the chief secular builcliiigs of tlie city. Tiie castle is a vast huilcUu'^', piotected by lii<,'h and massive walls and surrounded by a broad and deep moat. Osaka is the center of much industrial activity. It has iron and copper foundries, rolling mills, antimony works, glass works, paper mills, sugar refineries, cotton and rice mills, match and soap factories, breweries, oil factories, acid works and ship-yards. In fact this old seat of the con- quering "eldest son of the god of war," is fast growing into one of the most practical, busy and progressive cities of this wonderfully progressive " Island Empire " of the Pacific. HYDERABAD. I TIIK NIZAM S PALACE. N the veiy heart of India lies an extensive realm subject to the English power, lait known as Hyderabad or Haidardbtid — " the territory of the Nizam." It is as large as New England, has a population of fifty-five millions, a standing army of three hundred thousand, is ruled over by a native piince known as the Nizam, and pfiys an annual tribute of three and a half millions of dollars to the British crown. The capital city has the same name as the province — Hyderabad. It has with its outlying suburbs a population of three hundred and fifty-five thousand. It is a walled town, pierced with thirteen gates ; it is strikingly located in the midst of a wild and picturesque region and stands seventeen hundred feet above the sea. Of all places in India it is the most turbulent and unsafe. The general architecture of the city is not inspiring. The palace of the Nizam, the mosques and the British residency are the principal buildings. The palace is vast but not splendid. " With the exception of a few public buildings, such as the mosques and the palaces of the nobles," says Dr. Hurst, "there is little of real architectural merit. Nearly all the edifices Avere erected in troublous days. Hence the substantial character of all the massive teak-wood gates and wickets, over which are quarters for a guard or small garrison. Ever}^ now and then we pass a spacious bazaar. The best of these are the Cloth Bazaar, a handsome row of buildings facing an ornamental garden containing fountains and great tanks, and the Arms Bazaar, where one can see old and new armor of every kind, and form some conception of the bloody work these people have been doing these two centuries. The people whom we pass in the street present the most warlike appearance of any civilians whom I ever saw." The mixed nature of the population, too, is very striking. Dr. Hurst tells us that " all the ruder nations and tribes which have drifted into India or have been produced on the soil seem to be represented. Here is a semi-military Arab with a perfect arsenal of weapons in his kamarhaml (waistband). An Arab chief in \\\s pulki is escorted b}- a surging and tumultuous crowd of his retainers, firing off muskets and shouting out the wonderful titles of their august master as they pass along. Next comes the Seedee, with his broad black negro face, who is more fearful to behold than an Arab villain. The Kohilla, with slow and dignified step, may next be seen : his huge bell-mouthed blunderbuss, without which in Hyderabad he is never seen, is as distinguish- able as himself. The Pathan. the Afghan, the Persian, the Bokharian, the Georgian, the Pai-see, the Dekhanese, the Sikh, and the Turk, with many others, may be seen passing along, and making way for our magisterial elephants. We now reach the college or Char Minar (the Hpuse of P'our ^linarets). It is the heart of Hyderabad. Four streets diverge from it. Each of the four minarets is one hundred and eighty feet high. Above the arches are a couple of rooms, used as a madrksa and masjid (school and church). No one is allowed to ascend either of the minarets, 102 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. for the}- look down on the Nizam's palace. The Cliar Minav \va.s elected A. D. 1591, by Moham- med Kuli Kutub Shah. He built it in honor of God"s favorable answer to the prayers of some holy men in a day of a fierce pestilential scourge. It is the 'scandal point ' of the idle loiterei"s of Hydeiabad. Writers of petitions and lettei-s are squatted around on the steps, ])lying their trade, just as one used to see in gi-eat abundance in the Neapolitan market-places. Near by is tlie .Mecca Musjid. This mosque is a quadrangle of three hundred and sixty feet square. Its roof is supported by fifteen arches. During the festivals from eight ^o ten thousand worshipers meet under the two huge domes. Abdoola Kutub Shah began it. and the con- queror Aurungzili, the great Mogul Emperor, finished it. Within the mosque many of the princes lie buried.*' Four miles beyond the city are the celebrated fort and tombs of Golconda — palace and treasure house of the ancient kings of India when " their very names were s3'mbols of heroism and treasure throughout India." APrnoAci! TO THE ciiAi; .minar. MEXICO. No one," says Mr. F. Hopkinson Smith, "at all familiar with the history of Mexico can wander about the streets and suburbs of its principal city without seeing at every turn .some evidence of the vast changes which have maikcd its past, and which have made its story so thrilling. If Prescott's pleasing fiction be true, and I prefer to believe it rather thiui break the gods of my childhood, true also is the great plaza of the cathedral and the noble edifice itself with splendid facades and majestic twin towers, the hundreds of churches about which cluster the remains of convent, monastery and hospital ; the wide pesos, the tropical gardens, the moss-bearded cypresses four centuries old, under which the disheartened Aztec monarch mourned the loss of his kingdom, the palaces of the viceroys, the alamedas and their fountains." Important changes, however, so Mr. Smith declares, are taking place, making Mexico a civilizing infiuence and predicting a happier future. "The monastery of San Hiprtlito." he says, " once the palace of Bucarele, now contains a printing-press. The convent of Nuestra Senoi-a de la Concepcion is a public school. The church of San Agustin is a public library, and through the silent arches of many cloisters and through many a secluded convent garden run broad avenues iilled with the gay life of the metropolis. Moreover to-day, every man, be he pagan. Christian or Jew, may worship his particular God according to the dictates of his own conscience, in any form that pleases him." The city of Mexico is now a well-built handsome town of three hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the center of the great valley of Mexico seventy-five hundred feet above the sea. It is the largest and finest city in the central division of the three Americas- It forms a square extending nearly three miles in each direction and is laid out witli perfect i-egular- ity, all its six hundred streets and lanes running at right angles north to south and east to west, embracing within its walls an area of about ten square miles. As the houses are low — not over one or two stories — and are built in the ample Spanish fashion the extent of ground covered over is larger than in cities of the same population crowded GKEAT CITIES OF TIIK WOlM.D. 103 into closer quarters. The streets are wide aiul extend beyond the limits of the city in broad driveways, with a promenade at the side shaded with fine trees and bordered with stone seats. The city has numerous substantial public bui]dinf,rs cliief among which is the cathedral — the lar^iest and most sumptuous church in xVmerica. It faces the north side of Mexico's great central square, tho plaza Mayor, and stands upon the site of the vast Aztec temple of Iluitzilopochtli. On the other sides of the (irand Square arc the National Palace, comprising the government ollices, mint and prison, the National Museum, with an unrivaled Aztec collection and the Market-place. All till- main thoroughfares converge on this Plaza Mayor which cover.s fourteen aci'es "and is Ivautifully laid out witli trees, walks, garden plats and fountains. The National picture gallery of San .Carlos is the linest art collection in America, the national librar}- of San Agustin contains over one hundred thousand volumes. San Francisco Street is the leading thoroughfare and is rivaled in splendor oidy by the new Cinco de Mayo Street running from the National Theater to the Cathedral. Near to the city gates are the hill of ('hapultepec and Molino (tel Key — names famous in the battle annals of the United States. Mexico is awaking from lier sleep of centui'ies and is progressing at a surprising rate. The population has grown more than eighty thousand in ten yeai's. Electric lights, American con- veniences and accommodations, '"• English dog-carts and French bonnets" are rapidly modei-nizing it and it is to have shortly the largest hotel in America. But even progress cannot entirely destroy its picturesqueness. " Stroll up the Paseo de la Reforma at sundown — the Cluunps Elys^es of Mexico," saj-s ]\Ir. Smith, •• and watch the endless pi-ocession of open carriages filled with beautiful women with film}- mantillas shading tlicir dark eyes, the countless riders mounted on spirited horses, witli saddle 2)onnuels hung with lasso and lariat ; run your eye along the side- walk thronged with people, and over the mounted soldiers in intermittent groups, policing the brilliant pageant, and tell me if anywhere in the world you have seen so rich and novel a sight." IX T}IE COURT OK THE XATIOXAI. MUSEUM. MANCHESTER. THIRTY-TWO miles east from Liver- pool in the southeast corner of Lan- cashire, lies the greatest cotton-spin- ning city of England, in fact of the whole civilized world. Like its American name- sake thj-ougli the evolution of its manufactur- ing enterprise it has developed from an insig- nificant town into a wealthy and populous city. Like Puck, ALanchester cottons have, indeed, put a girdle round the world. The Arab Sheik in liis tent calls his attendant to liis side whose burnoose is twisted of Man- cliester cotton; 'the coolie laboring in the •^ paddy " fields of India wears his one scanty garment of Manchester weaving: your drago- man on the Nile is clad in the same fabric, and the crowd of uncomplaining fellahin along its reed-bordei-ed banks cover their l)ronzed bodies with the same light cotton cloth. Even the savages in mid-Africa whom Stanley at the peril of his life encounters are charmed by a bit of the gaudy fabric. Hardly less .savage, though in the heai-t of England liei"self, the collier-girls of Lancashire, who })ly tlieir black art in the midst of coal dust and L,Mime, when thej^ go out for their rare Sun- day afternoon's pleasuring with their " 'Any," proudly wear the Manchester cottons, in reality indirectly produced bj- them — for to the coal- lields of the environing Lancashire is Man- chester's gi-eatness due. Standing for the most jiart on a level plain with a little rising ground to the nortli. surrounded ly rivei-s which should be sources of purity and brightness, l)ut wliicli one of their countrymen pronounces to l)e "unspeakably filthy," tlie two busy sister-towns of Manchester and Salford are separated only by the meandering Irwell, which is on an average less than one Imndred feet wide. Manchester herself on the left bank is drained by the Medlock and the Irk ; their stagnant waters, black with mill-refuse, add but little to the beaut)- of the city, while the Tib, a smaller stream which flows through tlie town, is entirelj' overaiched and covered by streets and warehouses. Still, Manchester, although a manufacturing city, is^ not as unpicturesque as the sentimental tourist might imagine. If we emerge from the London Road station around which cluster most of the fine hotels, such as the " Queen.s," and the "Victoria," as we leisurely stroll up Piccadilly, one of the finest streets, which, at. its upper end, opens into one of those parks for which Manchester is justly famous, we shall see one of the provisions made to aid the worth}'^ po(n-. Here, in its beautiful giounds. rises tlie stately qxiadrangle of the Royal Infirmary — one wing of which is sacred to the memory of that sweetest of all singers. Jenny Lind. whose heart Avas as tender as her voice. In this smoky city she gave two concerts to help the poor and sick ; from the proceeds one wing was elected, and the twenty thousand ]iatients who are annually treated here have, indeed, good reason to rise up and call her blessed. BevcMid Piccadillv, continuinof its line, lies the handsome Market Street, the Broadwav of Miinrliester. full of l)rilliant sliops. tlieir plate-glass windows iined witli finery. Here are displa\-ed 104 IN IIIK .s.Miniv. GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. 1()5 not only heautifnl cotton (roods, hut rich silks and worsted materials which Manchester also turns fortii from her thousands of looms and spindles. Hirley's Cotton Spinning Mills at Choilton and Dewhui-st's Mills in Salfoi'd with their great chimneys two hundred and fifty feet high display many of their goods liere, and permission is courteously granted hy the heads of the firms to inspect their factories. These vast, hives swarm with husy workers: in the Atlas Machine Sho{)S alone frequently two thousand men are employed. The Assize Courts and the New Town Hall, although modern, are two noble Gothic piles. The latter with its splendid clock-tower two hundred and eighty-six feet high and its carillon of bells cost upward of five millions of dollars. About a mile and a quarter beyond the Town Hall, rises the handsome Gothic edifice of Owens College. Thi.s college with twelve hundred students and forty professors now forms an integral part of Victoria University, which, incorpoiated by Royal Charter in 1880, has its head in Manchester — its other two members being Liverpool I'nivei'sity and Yorkshire College. Cobden, Sir Robert Peel and other worthies connected with the city's history, are immortal- ized in statues in Peel Park in the borough of Salford, which contains also a Museum, Art Gallery and Free Library. The 5208 acres of Salford contain little more that is of public interest, the greater part of it consisting of ^nonotonous streets of waiehouses and dreary artisans' dwellings. One little spot of brightness, one little bit of color and poetry amidst the hard, prosaic, black facts of every-day life is found in the little, wild bit of mooiland, Kersal Moor, only twenty-one acres in extent, which the corporation of Salford guard tenderly as the apple of their eye. Not distant far from the smoke and grime of the great city, this little bit of moorland buds and blossoms in primroses, cowslips, daffodils, and rarer wild flowers of all kinds : within its limited area one-eighth of all the English flowering plants have been gathered A city that in the midst of its busy life of five hundred and seventy thousand souls can turn aside from its work to protect the tender life of its fragile wild-flowers, must certainly- give equal care to the young lives growing up among its bricks and mortar. In 1840 the death-rate of Manchester was 34.3, in 1881, 23.3 per thousand : less, with all its manufactures, than that of New York or Brooklyn. Although her air is still laden with the products of combustion of coal, and there is ample room for further improvement, these figures are full of suggestions of the better time coming when working men and working women shall receive their due, not only of increased wages but longer life. SAN FRANCISCO. SAN FRANCISCO is the biggest and most precious nugget that has come out of the Cali- fornia mines. Almost literally it is their product. Before the discovery of gold in 1848, it was a mere village whose nucleus was the little Catholic mission, Dolores, founded by two Franciscan monks in the year of the declaration of our national independence. In less than two yeai-s after the cry " Gold I " had startled the world like a tocsin — and two years is hardly a moment in histoiical reckoning — it had been transformed by the alchemy of destiny into a city of twenty-five thousand people. Bret Harte in his stories of "■ Roaring Camp ' and " Red Gulch " has familiarized and in a manner endeared to us the life of the raining camps of "40. The San Francisco ot those days was the rendezvous of all the mining camps and so a little more of a mining camp than any one of them. But San Francisco laid aside, long ago, everything savoring of the mniing camp. It is a substantial, luxurious city. The City Hall, the Palace Hotel and the Califoriua Bank, would do honor to an}- city in the world. Still it continues picturesque beyond most other American cities. 106 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. BIKD .S-EYE VIEW OF SAX ERANTISCO. for here Occident meets Orient, and Europe meets both. Mexicans, Spaniards, Frenchmen, Italians, Germans, Scandina- vians, Russians and Chinese are so nu- merous as to make all tlie more crowded thoroughfares appear like streets of some gigantic world's fair; and China-town — a section of about one- quarter square mile area containing from twenty-live thousand to thiity thousand inhabitants — is a veritable bit of Asia. True, the liouses there are all of American construction — for it was once the seat of fashion — Ijut they are so discolored .as to look very old, and so completely covered with wart-like side balconies and roof excrescences and so gloriously illuminated with red and gilt signs, lanterns and bainiers, and so thoroughly i)ermeatele manifestation of Cincinnati's musical life is her Music Hall in which the famous annual festivals are held. It has a capacity of seven thousand and the best acoustic properties of any large hall in this country, the plain hardwood finish having become almost as sympathetically vibrant as the walls of a violin, and sure to improve with age. Its organ case, by the way, was carved by the ladies of Cincinnati, wood carving being another art in which Cincinnatians do superior work. The demand of the city for skilled musicians is supplied to a considerable degree by the Cincinnati College of Music, an institution that has had much to do with the guiding of her musical taste into correct channels. It was founded in 1878 by private citizens, is practically free to all who cannot afford to pay tuition and has an average attendance of six hundred. It is a worthy monument to the exceptional liberality and public spirit of Cinciiniati's private citizens. The Public Museum is another, the Art School another, the famous Tyler- Davidson fountain, the gift of Henry Probasco, in Fountain Square still another. In regard to this last it is related that when the King of Bavaria heard that Mr. Probasco, a private citizen, had erected in Cincinnati a one hundred and twenty thousand dollar fountain, and presented it to the city, he exclaimed: " Before such a citizen any king may doff his hat." Well, no wonder ! Cincinu/ati was settled near the close of 1788 by pioneers from Kentucky and New Jer.sey. Its history therefore covers little more than a man's life sometimes spans. Thus William Moody, the first white child l)orn at the settlement (March 17, 1790), survived until 1879, and there are not a few Cincinnatians of to-day who remember the Indians. Since those Indian days, which were surely exciting enough, the cit}- has never been in real jeopardy but once, and that very lately. Between 1825 and 1830, immigration from New England set in and a little later from Virginia, important because it meant an assimilation of some of the best blood of two veiy different sections. England caught the Cincinnati fever alwut 183o, and sent over a numl)er of emigrants, among them Mrs. TroUope, mother of Anthony Trollope, the novelist. Then came a perfect flood of 1 THE OHIO nrVER, OPPOSITE MOrXT AITirRX. GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. Ill Geniiaii iiiiiiiinriints, so iiiiUi^-of them that to-day ahoiit one liflh ol llie whole e>>Liiiiiilcil [jopiilalioii of two liuudrecl ami eighty thousaml are native (iermans, a htiger proportion prol>alily than is to he found in any other great city of the United States. "Looked at one way," says Charles Dudley Warner, "the real (^ineinnati is a (ierman city, and you can only study its true character 'over the Rliine,' and see it successfully through the bottom of an upturned heer glass." " Over the Ilhine," it must be understood, is an almost exclusively German district, Ijetween the old Miami C'anal and the hills, where the continental Sunday prevails, and where the theaters, concert halls, l.id}' orchestras, shooting galleries and beer gardens fairly out-German German}-. It goes without saying that the German portion has more or less Germanized the whole city-oiganism. In some particnlars this may be unfortunate, but hugely considered the moditication has probably been in the direction of more vigorous health. As some one lias happily put it, "the German element is at once conservative as to improvements, and liberalizing in theology and life." To it Cincinnati is doubtless indebted for much of her stability and for nearly all of liei' musical growth and prestige. In 18()2, the city was menaced by the confederate forces, but was not attacked. Floods have been frequent of late years. In 1876, the river rose forty-eight feet in forty -eight hours ; in 1882, it rose fifty feet ; in 1883, sixty-eight feet, and in 1884, over seventy feet. Much property was destroyed by each of these overflows. Her manufactures are many and inci'easing. The manufactured product of 1880 was ••1148,957,280, of 1886, !|190,722,153. Clearings and banking capital have also increased. Every western ''city has a specialty. Once Cincinnati's was pork, now it is soap. It is the first soap city and has the largest soap factory in the world, in Avhich an interesting and so far highly successful experiment in profit-sharing is Imng carried on. It is also the fii"st glycerine city in the world, and the first burial-case city in this country. Even Egypt and Turkey send to Cincinnati for hearses. It is almost equall}- famous for its carriages, white lead and paint works, leaf tobacco and malt and distilled liquors. For a long time, the first district of Ohio in which Cincinnati is situated paid more internal revenue to the L'nited States government than an}- other in the country. Judge Hoadley, in an eloquent speech delivered a few years ago, spoke of Cincinnati as destined to become " the Edinburgh of a new Scotland, the Boston of a new New England, the Paris of a new France." It seems that there must have been something very pat about the i-eference to Paris, inasmuch as it was taken up here and there and passed along nntil Cincinnati became pretty generally known as the "Paris of America." Though nicknamed " Porkopolis," Cincinnati really rates seventh in the Ameiican Hog " Statistics " — Chicago, Kansas City, Boston, Omaha, St. Louis and Indianapolis all outranking her in tlie number of hogs marketed. But among all her names, there is none that she has worn so long and so gracefully, none that seems so appropriate as " Queen City." Mere bigness does not constitute queenship. It is written of Queen Esther that she was " fair and beautiful," and " obtained favor in the sight of all them that looked upon her." Such is Cincinnati. Such as hers is Cincinnati's claim to queenliuess. Vive la reine ! HAMBURG. HAMBURG is one of the most remarkable cities of the German Empire and the first of all the seats of commerce on the continent ; London, Liver- pool and Glasgow excepted, it is the most important commercial town in Europe. ^Vnd yet Ham- burg is still somewhat disappoint- ing to the tourist who seeks not only for life but picturesqueness. Forced by the iron policy of Bismarck to give up its ancient privilege of being a free port, Ham- burg A\ithin the last te)i years has wonderfully improved its harbor facilities. Over forty million dol- lars have beeii spent in widening canals, building great docks and quays, and erecting fine warehouses in which to store the rich goods which come from all over the world. Of this expenditure the Imperial government paid one fourth. With an actual population of three hundred and i\\(i thousand, with her suburbs of Altona, Wands- beck and other adjoining points, Hamburg has a total population of nearly five hundied and fifty thou- sand. The chief point of interest is the harbor — busy and jactur- esque. Along tlie baidcs of the Elbe, the long qua}-^ so recently enlarged and extended stretch a distance of nearly four miles ; sev- eral great hafens, or harbors, run almost into the heart of the town, and the life-blood, or rather water of the numerous Jlecte, or canals, which intersect the city, is poured into these basins. Flat-bottomed boats convey the goods from the magazines and ware- houses through these canals to the Binnen and the Baakcnhafen ; while in the time of ice and storm the great sailing vessels lie in the Nieder-hafen along the north bank of the broad lower Elbe, which lies to the south of the city. Though the quays to the south on the Elbe are picturesque with bustle and business, undoubt- edly the great beauty of Hamburg lies around the Binnen-Alster, or Alster Bassin, and its environs. Here, almost in the heart of the city, this beautiful sheet of water, upwards of a mile in circum- ference, lies surrounded on three sides by broad quays planted with the oaks and lindens for which Germany is famous. The Alte and Neue Jungfern-stieg, the Broadway and Fifth Avenue of Ham- burg, are flanked with palatial hotels and splendid private dwellings. The glass-covered bazaar in the Alte Jungfern-stieg is full of traffic : near by are the spacious Alster Arcades, whose shops 112 A iia:miu'ug market-woman. GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. n:i are the delight of the Ilainbuig hiiUes, while tlie beiiutifiil promenade ot the Loinlmrd's bridge separates this inner basin from its larger but less comely brother, the Aussen Alster. The sights of Hambui-g, besides the harbor, are the Exehange, wliere live thousand merchants daily congregate between 1 and 3 v. M., and the church of St. Nicholas, with its four hundred and seventy-three feet of tower, rivalled oidy l)y the cathedrals of Cologne, live hundred and eleven feet, and St. Ouen, four hundred and ninety-two feet. St. Michael's Church has a tower rising four hiuidred and twenty-eight feet, ranking the' tenth liighcst on the continent. .M(jst of the old ecclesiastical landmarks, however, were unfortunately swept away by the blaze of 1842, and there are few interesting secular buildings, although the Museum, the college of Surgeons and the Johanneum, with its schools and splendid library of three hundred thousand volumes, are worthy of note. BRESLAU. THE tourist in lireslau to-day sees a cify of ]iearly three hundred thousand inhabitants. It has had a stirring and historic past and is now the thii'd largest city in Prussia, lying on both sides of the Oder. To reach it the visitor has probably taken the railway, which runs between Berlin and ^'ienna, Breslau lying one hundred and ninety miles southwest of Berlin. On the site of the ancient fortitications, he can enjoy a beautiful promenade on the broad, shaded ON THE rnOMFNAPE. 114 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. boulevards. Breslaivs new town lies on the left bank of the Oder, but the old town across the stream and the five suburl)s which are connected by numerous bridges, contain some interesting landmarks. Perhaps the most interesting building among the number of educational institutions for which Breslau is noted is her university. It is a lather interesting and significant fact to note that there, in the midst of this bustling commercial city, with its manufactures of linen, woolen, cotton and silk, carpets, tools, machinery, with its four great annual linen fairs which last eight days and bring buyers from all over the continent — in this city which is the greatest woolen mart in Germany, or indeed on the continent, the students yet have time to cultivate the liberal arts. A busy, bustling town, active with commertc and life, with little rememlnance of the past. Breslau is typical of nineteenth century progress. Tlie traveler who go^s there expecting to find a quaint, picturesque town like Nuremberg or Prague, will leave disappointed, but the American who goes abroad to compare German progress with the growth of his own wondeiful western world, will find much of interest in this city, whose progress has kept pace with Prussia's wonderful advance and whose population since 1850 has tripled. MILAN. IT seems impossible to imagine a gayer, more laughing, more attractive city than is Milan — tliis city on the plains of Lombard}-, with the exception of Naples and Rome, the largest city of Itah'. The Corso Yittorio Emanuel is the fashionable street of Milan. It is attractive and picturesque, thronged with a bustling crowd of liandsome black-eyed gentlemen, and the soft-ej'ed brunette Italian women, with graceful Spanish lace mantillas or veils draped over their jet hair. Great shop windows, brilliant with plate ghiss, and filled with diamonds and the rich jewelry, other windows still more resplendent, filled with rich silks and A'elvets of gorgeous colors, for whose manufacture Milan is famous, over two hundred firms l)eing engaged in their manufacture, still other shops radiant with the most enticing sweets and conjiserie, for which Milan confectionei-s have a real genius — all these add to the brightness of this Italian Paris. From the delicate spiral tower of the famous cathedral — regarded by tlie i)ious .Milanese as the eighth wonder of the world — the view is wonderful. The vast plains of Lombardy stretch out illimitably, fhc silver Italian lakes glitter in middle distance, in tlie background rise the snowy crests of Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc ; left of Monte Rosa rises the sharp peak of the Matterhom, nearer are the mountains that border on the beautiful Engadine Valley, the garden of Switzerland. What are the wonderfid altar pieces, the statues, the stained glass, the life-sized silver statue of the good cardinal and patron saint of Milan, S. Carlo Borromeo, whi\t is even tlie body of the good saint himself, who is embalmed and lies in state in the subterranean Capella, to this wonderful pageant of the Alps, those miracles of Nature seen from the lofty summit of this miracle of Art ? Beautiful chestnut-shaded boulevards encircle Milan, covering the site of the old ramparts. On a pleasant Sunday afternoon the Giardini Pubblici, which lie between the Porta Venezia and the Porta Nuova, are something to see, crowded as they are with handsomely dressed ladies and elegant men. All is bustle and life, all is smiling and laughter — the bloody past of Milan, whose history dates from the time of the Romans, whose heroic struggles against the German emperors almost blotted her out of existence in the time of Frederic Barbarossa, whose later struggles with the Spaniards was followed by her unwilling allegiance to Austria and the bloody insurrection of the seventeenth of May, 1848 — all this historic past seems forgotten in the glow and prosperity of the smiling present. THK KOXCiF.XS XYTORV. COPENHAGEN. THE capital of the little kingdom of Denmark and the kingly residence is one of the finest and most interesting towns of Northern Europe. Viewed from the harbor of the tideless Baltic, Copenhagen possesses little picturesque- ness, covering as it does an extensive fiat, protected from the encroachments of the sea by eml)ank- ments. Great and repeated fires, too, have swept away the old and gabled houses of the ancient island town ; but, in the place of these wooden structures with their jutting rafters and quaint northern architecture liave sprung up lofty and spacious edifices, both public and private, bordering the broad, handsome streets, or the fine squares with which the city is adorned. Chief among these squares, the center of the city and the focus of business, lies the Kongens Nvtorv (King's New ^larket). From it as a center radiate important streets with equally unpro- nounceable names. In this square rises the palace of Charlottenborg, with its academy of art ; close beside it is the fine National Theater, flanked by numerous hotels. The Oster-Gade, with its handsome shops, leads from this square to the " old and new market square," its continuation passing near the beautiful Fruekirche, whose interior is adorned by a most exquisite marble group of the risen Christ and the twelve apostles, most of which was executed by Thorwaldsen's own hand. On an island hard by, a little town in itself, rises the imposing Christiansborg palace with a sculptured facade by Thorwaldsen and splendid caryatides which bear up the throne, by the same master. Rembrandts, Rubens, Vandycks and the works of modern Danish masters adorn the Rojal Picture Gallery. On the northwest side of the palace rises the center of attraction in Copenhagen : the Thor- waldsen Museum. Every work that the great sculptor executed is found here, either in the original or casts : for Copenhagen was the home of Denmark's greatest artist. 11.5 110 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Next ill interest comes the museum of Xorthern antiquities, the "linest of its kind in exist- ence," and invaluable to the liistorian of early Scandinavia. Here are weapons, tools, urns and jewels without number ; the implements of the stone, bronze and iron age well classified, together with the finest collection of gold ornaments in Europe. Copenhagen is noted for its delicate filigi-ee work in gold and silver, as well as its exquisite pottery and porcelain made in the Royal porcelain factory. For the traveler who is satiated with art, tliere are other diversions — the jolly little Tivoli, outside the Vester-Port, with its concerts, theater, panorama, fireworks, frequently filled with Danish peiisants in their picturesque gaib is well worth seeing. Through the Rosenborg Gardens, along the Gronengen esjilanade, between the citadel and the town and the Lange Linie, with its beautiful sea view, are delightful walks. The environs of Copenhagen aie attractive and picturesque. Numerous cJidteaux and coumvy- houses border on the blue-green waters of the smiling sound ; rich cornfields vie with emerald- green pastures bordered by the fine beech forests which are the pride of Denmark. Charlottenlund, the summer residence of the crown-prince, lies but two miles north of Copenhagen : while the spacious Dyrehave, or deer-park, a beautiful forest of oaks and beeches, lies near by. ^^^^^■^•^■•■^■'^^^J^^-fl ^■^C^^^^^^^^^^^J^tf^i/^^^ THK BAILEY OI'AUD OATK. LUCKNOW. FOURTH in size of the cities of India and capital of the province of Oudh, Lucknow has to-day a population of over two hundred and eighty-five thousand, and a certain manu- facturing and commercial importance as the chief depot for the products of the rich agri- cultural province of Oudli. The city is built on both sides of the river Gumti, spanned by ff)ur bridges. Its chief buildings of note are the immense mausoleum of Asaf-na-daala, the huge Cliattar Manzil palace with its gilt umbrella spires, the lofty mosque of Jamd Masjfd, and the English residency crowning a picturesque eminence and commanding the city. The city, like so GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 117 many orit'iital towns, has from a distance an appearance of great splendor and a most ordinary dress when viewed within its walls. Some of the chief streets are, however, hioader and iiner than those of most European towns, and its occupation as a military center has made it cleaner and healthier than most crowded eastern cities. Lucknow's chief interest lies in its dramatic history during the Sepo}' revolt of \Ho~ and its celebrated relief by Sir Colin Campbell, so often sung in verse and told in story. The memorial cross that towers to-day above the ruined walls of the old residency, tells the stoiy of that bloody struggle, while l)ehind an artificial mound, gay with flowers and feather}- with the foliage of gigantic bamboos, lie the remains of the two thousand Europeans who j;erished in that awful tiiiie of revolt and murder. SHEFFIELD. IN the West Riding of Yorkshire, largest of all England's counties, with its six thousand square miles and its four million acres, with its moors and mountains that border upon the pictur- esque banks of the Don and Slieaf, with its seashore and hill lands, with its rivers and moorlands, where Nature has done even more than Art, lies the busy, nineteenth century town of Sheffield. With its 321,711 inhabitants, Sheffield is busily at work making cutlery, files, silver and plated ware, armor plates, steel guns and other implements both of war and peace. The heart of the town is given up to manufactures, while its suburbs, in Avhich the Avealthier manufacturers and merchants live, spread up the slopes of the amphitheater of hills that circle around it on all sides except the northeast , that picttiresque range of hills which forms the backbone of Old England, that separates Derbysli re and Lancashire from Yorkshire, and sends down the mountain springs that FOKGIXG A STF.F.I, IXGOT AT THK ATI. AS STKF.L AXD IRON WORKS, SHEFHtil). 118 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. form the head waters of the Don and the Sheaf, between whose junction lies Shetiield, " one of the foulest towns of England in the most charming situation." This, however, must be taken to-day with some grains of allowance — - Horace Walpole's description gives Sheffield as it was some ninety years since. The Sheffield of to-day, like the other manufacturing towns of England, has shared in the advances wrought by sanitary science. To be sure, the streets in the old part of the town are irregularly built, often steep and narrow. But the greater part of the business is carried on in the more modern part ; here the streets are wide and straight, well lighted and paved, and the shops, although dingied by clouds of smoke, are elegant — at least what can be seen of them. In the way of antiquities Sheffield has not much to be proud of. Her St. Peter's Church in the middle of the town, a rather line example of Decorated Gothic, was begun in the fourteenth century, and the Shrewsbury Chapel attached contains a monument to that sixth earl imder whose custody the fair but unhappy Queen of Scots spent twelve years of her captivit}-. In the Civil Wars the old castle, built by Henry the Eighth, was razed to the ground, but the Manor House of the Earl of Shi-ewsbury, in Avliich Cardinal WoLsey first languished and whei-e Mary Stuart later spent many of lier mournful years, still stands about a mile and a half southeast of St. Peter's. The men of Sheffield are still keeping up their light Avith a dragon as fierce as that famous one of Wantley, whose lair was scarce eight miles away — the dragon of want and poverty ; their weapons are as keenly forged to-day as the Sheffield armor in King James' time ; their " whittle " or knife is as sharp as it was in Dan Chaucer's time ; their Cutlers' Hall stands in proud dignity and the office of Master Cutler is the highest dignity the city can bestow to-day. As a rule, their work-people are well paid and own little homes of their own. Their brass foundries, their electro-plating and manufacture of Britannia-ware, their stoves, grates and fenders, and their optical instruments vie with the steel rolling mills ; and a visit to Sheffield will well repay the ti-aveler interested in the industrial development of the nineteenth century. CLEVELAND. c 'LK\'ELAND was not born gjeat, nor witli an irresistible capacity for great- ness. Neitlier has slic had greatness thrust upon he)-, as have man}* of the great cities of the West. She has fairly earned it by dint of hard labor. She is grreat because she has had afreat citizens. To the Pioneei- Period of Cleveland's history that closed in. 1827 suc- ceeded the Canal Period which meant an access of new life to the Forest Cit)-. Then in the fifties came another change when, by 1857, coal met iron at Cleveland, and when coal and iron meet there is sure to be trade and there needs only a little flame and a modicum of skill for the achievinsf cfreat industrial results. These small essentials came quickly to liand. and at once Cleveland was, in consequence, fairly launched upon the latest and greatest of all the periods of her history, the Industrial Period, or, if you will, the Coal and Iron Period. Her annual product of manufactured iron is about nine hundred thousand tons : Bessemer and open hearth ingots, pig, merchant bar and finished iron. THE GARFIELD :\rEJrORIAL. (iKEAT crriKS OF TIIK WolMJ). Hi) rods, steel mils, forcings, .iiiil wiie rods, linished wire, sheets and plates, nuts and l)()lts, and shapes tor wagon hardware ; two hundred thousand car wheels and two hundred and loity thou- sand kegs of wire nails, not to mention miscellanies. In 1887 the value of this product was •'y8:],lo0,000 to which the ''Cleveland Rollinii!2,2o0,000, a sum larger in propoition to the population of the city than the cost of the Brooklyn Bridge. Two other immense viaducts have been recently completed. One over Kingsbury Run, an eastern branch of the Cuyahoga, is 1063 feet long, 80 feet high and 48 feet wide. The other, the Central Viaduct, over another branch of the Cuyahoga, connects the east and south sections. It is 2830 feet long, 48 feet wide, and 101 feet high, with a draw span of 239 feet and a branch to the west side which makes its entire length over a mile. Both these later viaducts are mostly iron. Business Cleveland is grouped about Monumental Park, a large open space which takes its name from a monument to Commodoie Perry. Superior Street, one of several that radiates from this park, is the principal business thoroughfare. It is a* street of magnificent business palaces, and its exceptional width, one hundred and thirty-two feet, may be accounted for b}- the fact that it was laid out when land was only one dollar an acre. Cleveland has often been called the Forest Cit}' from the shade trees (over eighty thousand of them), mostly maples, that adorn her residence quarters. Euclid Avenue, which begins in the southwestern corner of Monumental Park and extends many miles beyond the city limits, is gen- erally admitted to be the most beautiful street in the country. It is level, broad and shady, its residences stand well back from the drive and exhibit varied and pleasing architectural effects, its lawns are velvety and its private grounds ample and tasteful. A beautiful private park, which will soon be made over to the city, extends along a part of its coui-se, and opposite the park is Lakeview Cemetery where James A. Garfield is buried, whose monument will some day be one of our great national shrines. The outlook over the broad expanse of the lake from this point is inexpressibly beautiful. It is a fitting spot for the last resting-place of the Nation's latest hero. Indeed of all the claims that Cleveland can advance to national recognition, none is greater than this, that she holds the ashes of a martyred president. SHANGHAI. A EUROPE AN city iu the Orient : such is Shanghai. Situated between two great bends in the Woo-sung, or Hwang-p"u River, some eight miles from its contiuence with the Yang-tsze- Kiang estuary, the citj- has been adopted by the treaty powers — England, France and America — as the best settlement for a port of trade, because of its easy access to the ocean and its favorable location as the natural outlet of the products of what is known as '• the garden of China." The native city is crowded, dirty, ill-smelling and only picturesquely attractive to a limited extent. The mixed inhabitants of the foreign settlement exceed one hundred and fift}- thousand and the native city with its suburbs and the boat population increase the figures 'to fully three hundred and twenty-five thousand souls. The foreign quarter, entirely distinct though adjoining the Chinese town, is substantially built, conveniently arranged and excellently governed by a representative of the Christian powers. The manifold attractions of the place have brought many merchants to the new city and as a result, says Professor Douglas, " from the banks of the Hwang-p'u arose lines of hongs and handsome dwelling houses which have converted a reed- covered swamp into one of the finest cities of the East." ROME. THE slow train from Pisa brings one, wearied from a nine hours" ride, into Rome at last, after dark. The traveler disembarks in a lono;, cjlass-roofed station and takes an omnibus to his hotel. Modern Rome is prosaic enough. " The idea," says Mr. Stockton, " which most of us have formed of the city of Romulus and Remus has no association with such a thins: as a liotel omnibus ; and as we roll awav through street after street lighted by occasional lamps, we see nothincr throusfh the omnibus windows which reminds us at all of Julius Ciesar or Cicero." Daylight will show these reminders in plenty, but modern Rome and ancient Rome are really distinct sections. Modern Rome occupies Avhat was in olden times the valley of the Campus Martins and the hills that press upon it. All this section was outside the walls of the ancient city. Taken as a whole. Rome — ancient and modern — com- mences at a northerly point, tlie Piazza del Popolo, and spreads out southwards like a fan. The " Yellow Tiber " cuts its wind- ing way through the city of to-day, dividing it into two unequal parts, and the greatest breadth of the city is from the Vatican and St. Peter's on the western limit to the palace of the Lateran on the eastern limit. The space thus covered is filled with memorials of more than twenty-five centuries of historic life. '* There aie indeed." .says Mr. Stockton, " three cities to be seen in Rome : the Rome of to-day, the Rome of the Middle Ages and ancient Rome ; each very distinct from the others and yet all. in a measure, mingled together. I lived," he savs, "for months in a portion of the city where tlie street was broad and well paved, with wide sidewalks : where the houses weie tall and new. with handsome shops in many of them ; 120 122 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. where passers-by wore hats, coats and dresses just like the people to whom I had always been accustomed — and this street continually reminded me of some of the new avenues in the upper part of New York. But if I went around a corner and down a broad flight of steps I saw before me a lofty marble column, nearly a hundi-ed and fifty feet high, around which winds a long, spiral procession of more than two thousand sculptured warriors with their chariots and engines of war and beneath which lies buried the great Emperor Trajan. There is nothing about that to remind any one of New York." Rome still covers four of its original seven hills — the Capitoline, Quirinal, Yiminal and Esquiline, though the valleys between are tilled in with forty feet of rubbish. But the three famous hills of ol 1 — the A ventine, Coelian and Palatine are left " to ruins, gardens and monks." The great wall constructed by the Emperor Aurelian, sixteen hundred years ago, still sur- rounds the city on Tiber's eastern bank. It is fourteen miles in extent, is tifty-five feet high and is pierced by twelve gates. About two thirds of the space thus enclosed is covered by gardens, vine- yards and the ruins of a dead Rome. Seven bridges span the Tiber. One of the best \dews of the city is from the top of the Pincian Hill. The great " show " places of Rome are St. Peter's, the larger church in the world, the Vati- can, or palace of the Pope, the Coliseum, the Castle of San Angelo, formerly the tomb of the Emperor Hadrian, the old Forum or meeting-place of the people, the column of Marcus Aurelius, the arches of Titus, of Septimius Severus and of Constantine, the Farnese Palace, the Pantheon, the buildings and statues of the Capitoline Hill, the Fountain of Trevi, the church of St. John of Lateran with its sacred staircase, said to be formed from the stairs of Pilate's house in Jerusalem, the church of St. Maria Maggiore, with the tombs, monuments and ruins in the suburbs of the city. These represent the woik and the history of ages — to-tlay jostles against yesterday at every turn, and the sights and scenes in this greatest city of the world are such as to set even the most trivial of visitoi-s to thinking and to keep the cultivated tourist in a maze of absorbing interest. Rome to-day is a city of nearly three hundred thousand people — a cleanly, well-lighted, well- paved and in some parts modern, progressive city. New Italy casting off the reign of pope and Bourbon has made the old town its capital. Here on the Quirinal Hill is the Quirinal Palace where lives the progressive king, and in the town is a life and action that the daj's of priest and THK CVSri.K OK SAN A.\(.KI. lence of the former as does the environment of Delaware Avenue the charm of the latter. This avenue, notwithstanding the remark of the wag, that it " takes its rise in a jail and ends in a tomb," is a very cheerful and beautiful street, overarched through its entire length of over three miles b}' double rows of elms and maples in which Buffalonians take a great deal of just pride. In 1804 Timothy Dwight wrote of Buffalo : " The inhabitants are a casual collection o-f adventurers and have the usual characteristics of such adventurers thus collected when remote from regular society." And it is onl}- seventy-seven years since the British burned all the houses of the village except two. But for all its lack of a past, it has quite outgrown the rawness incident to youth, so that, while just as keenly alive to business as an}- of the cities of the West, it yet gives much the same impression of stability that an Eastern city does. It is this fact, fully as much as the careful preservation of its shade trees that lias caused Buffalo to be compaied so often to New Haven. Ai't (except music) and literature can hardly be said to have become objects of wide-spread interest with her i^eople yet, but that she has about -her a congenial and cultivated social atmos- phere is alike the testimony of residents and of visiting strangers. TlIK XKM- ACAnK:\rV OF FIXT; AlITS IX Ml'NlCH. MUNICH. Ml'NICn. Miinchen, or Monaco, as the capital of Ravaria is variously called, has the reputation of being one of the jolliest and cheapest little capitals of Europe. The only trouble is an embarrassment of riches ; there is so much to see, so much to admire, and generally so little time with which to do it all. The American, who usually befoi-e going to Munich has a rather contemptuous idea of this city and comes to scoff, frequently remains to stay — he can find no place where he can get so much for so little. If he is an art student, he soon feels he is living in one of the richest art cities in Germany where the instruction is almost nominal ; he liannts the spacious Vatican-like galleries of the old Pinakothek with their fourteen liundrett pictures chronologically arranged. If he wishes to study the history of Painting, in the spacious Loggia on the south side the frescos of Cor- nelius, twent)'-five in number Avhich adorn the arcade, give the whole history of the art of the Middle Ages. If the art-lover tire of these works of the old masters, in the adjoining square in tlie Neue Pinakothek he can see the works of the best modern painters, particularly of the .Munich school. Tired of the glory and the glare of these brilliant paintings, it is like moonlight unto sun- light to step into the cool, silent, spacious Glyptothek, with its silver}', gleaming statues and LMime face to face with the choicest productions of Greek art. But High Art alone is somewhat wearisome. The traveler who wishes to get a l)ird"s-eye view of Munich l)efore proceeding further in art study is wise if he strolls out to the beautiful Theresien-wiese, a spacious, verdant, high-lying meadow on the eastern outskirts of the town. If he is fortunate enough to stroll out there on a bright Sunday, the first in October, at tlie time of the October Fest, or annual fair and festival, he will see a brilliant sight that is tiuly national. 12o 1:^6 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. Over a multitudinous crowd, brilliant as a spring parterre, watches the giant Statue of Bavaria, in front of the Hall of Fame, sixt3--nine feet in height, rivalled onl}- b)- the Bartholdi Statue ; this great bronze figure was made at Munich out of Turkish cannon won at the sea-fight of Navarino. Max-Josephs Platz, the center of the traffic of the citj-, dividing the new from the old adjoins the Rbj'al Palace ; from it leads the splendid Maximilian Street, three quarters of a mile long, bordered by the Mint, the National Museum and adorned b)^ many statues. The progress of civilization and art from the earliest times is illustrated in this Museum of King Max the Second, filled to overflowing with paintings, frescos, carvings, tapestries, stained-glass, lace and rich work in silver, ivory, gold and jewels. At the end of the street, rising forty-two feet in height from the ground stands the magnificent monument of King Maximilian the Second, the statue of the king shining resplendant in gilded bionze. Across Maximilian's Bridge spanning the Tsar, rises the lofty Maximilaneum on the terraced height, surrounded by beautiful drives. Its facades and halls are adorned by statues and busts. Time would fail the traveler to visit all Munich's sights ; the Ro3-al Library, with its twenty- five thousand manuscripts and eight hundred thousand volumes, the Aller-Heiligen Hofkirche, "a perfect gem of taste and magnificence," the Basilica, the Schwanthaler Museum, the Nibe- lungen frescos, the picture gallery of Count Shack and the magnificent gateways and triumphal arches of the PropyUca and the Liegesthor. NEW ORLEANS. ITHIN a hundred miles of the mouth of the ^Mississippi, amid a chaos of ooze-flats, wild prairies, sedgy savannas, sunken nuirasses, cypress and cedar swamps, lagoons and palmetto thickets, " When- 'tis neither sea nor strand. Ocean nor good, dry land." stand.s — oi' sits, or lies, or floats — the Crescent City of New Orleans. " I never could find out exactly where New Orleans is," says Charles Dudley Warner with his customary felicity. " I have looked for it on the map without much enlightenment. It is dropped down there somewhere in the marshes of the Mississippi and the bayous and lakes. It is below the one and tangled up among the others, or it might some day float out to the Gulf and disappear. How the Mississippi gets out I never could discover." The river is certainlj- very freak- ish just here. It makes three abrupt turns, southward, eastward, northward, and by so doing hems in three sides of a rectangle of land, the fourth boundary of which is the southern edge of Lake Pontchartrain five or six miles to the northward. The mighty river clasps and fondles the city as lovingly as though it were her own child, as in very truth it is and still a nursling. To the tourist who gets his first view of New Orleans from the deck of an incoming steamer, it appeal's a veritable thing of beauty. As it rests on mire and water held in place by some invisible anchor he likens it in all but color to the magnificent water-lily of the Amazon, the Victoria Regia. But as he takes note of its many hues — the tender green of its orangeries, parks and skirting plantations, the red of its tiled roofs and chimneys, the pink, yellow, brown and gray GREAT. CITIES OK TliK WOULD. 127 of its stuccoetl and woock'ii houses and of tlu; kaleidoscopic effects of its thousands ui)on thou- sands of festooned, pointed, pinnacled, pagoda-like cisterns of cypress wood, he does not find it hard to transform it into a richly-mottled orchid, that has attained a luxuiiant parasitic growth on some root or sunken log of these encompassing moi'asses, or even into a gorgeous ti'opic Initterfiy that, having thoughtlessly strayed too far to the northward, has alighted for an instant just to take its hearings and will straight flutter away. Landing, and entering and strolling about, this same tourist finds New Orleans one fascinating jumble of picturesque details ; levees fringed for miles with every variety of river-craft and swarm- ing with bulky merchandise, wagons and laborers who shout and swear in a dozen difleieut tongues ; newly erected business blocks and tumble-down old markets ; churches, clubhouses, public buildings, theaters, gilded saloons and gambling palaces ; broad avenues of over-arching, gray-bearded Jive oaks, cheery with mocking-birds ; narrow, dirty alleys and hummocky side^^■alks ; modern American mansions surrounded by velvety lawns, old French houses embellished with porches, galleries, dormer windows, jalousies and balconies of iron traceries most delicatel}' wrought; courts for ornament with flower-beds, vines, vases, fountains, and courts for use, full of old furniture and rubbish ; front gardens of southern flowering shrubs and fruit trees shut off from the street by elaborately latticed palings ; the rich perfume of red roses, ever and anon over- borne by the stench of green or iridescent surface sewers ; quaint nooks and corners inhabited by still quaintei' people, black skins, red skins, yellow skins, white skins and every possible shade of skin between. He may be a little dazed with it all, but he cannot fail to like New Orleans, at once "the most cosmopolitan of provincial cities" and "the least American of American cities." With a history as romantic as changeful, New Orleans in its relations to the great woild of business is at present in a transition state. For many years the levee was the platform of all its activities. New Orleans was literally the City of the Mississippi, as much a product commercially of the ships she floated down, as its site was the product of the alluvium she deposited. It was looked upon in all quarters as the future emporium of the whole gigantic Mississippi basin. This was a rational expectation based on an almost overwhelming probability. But it is with cities as it is with men. It is the unexpected that happens. The Erie Canal, the application of steam to ocean traffic, the yellow fever scourge of 1853-5 and finally the Civil AVar produced a shock that was well-nigh fatal. How great this shock was is evidenced by the fact that not till 1883 did its commerce become equal to the commerce of 1860. Almost a quarter of a centuiy just catching its breath after its rude tumble I while Chicago and Cincinnati and New York were racing ahead without any handicap I And after all, the wonder is not so much that New Orleans was a quarter of a century getting its breath, as that it succeeded in getting it at all. The tact and the perseverance requisite to a complete adjustment to an entirely new condition of society on a city's part can hardly be exaggerated. That this adjust- ment is not yet complete, need hardly be said, but there can no longer be the slightest doubt as to the result. The Creole element which has so long been dominant is gradually succumbing to American influence. This change is on many accounts to be regretted, but it is unequivocably favorable to commercial and industrial advancement. Note a few of the changes already effected. Foreign commerce is no longer impeded by sand bars; the famous Eads jetties erected in 1879 have entirely obviated that. A stricter quarantine and improved drainage have rendered the recurrence of yellow fever epidemics much less likely. Six trunk lines of railroad connect with all portions of the country, the trade with New York alone more than making up for the old coast- wise traffic. How far it has accepted the inevitable new in this one particular of railroads, is clear from the fact that in a short period of eight years the relations of river and railway have been exactly reversed. In 1880 the river trade was twice that of the railways ; in 1884 the railways and river were practically tied ; and in 1888 the ]-ailways did double the business of the river. When the great Southwest shall have been more fully developed, and when the United States shall have become, as it must, the commercial jiartner of the South American Republics, New Orleans may hope for a period of commercial growth quite on a par with any she has ever known. Her command of the Gulf of Mexico, her proximity to the Indies, her prestige as the metropolis of the Gulf States are other favoring influences and the Mississippi is likely to long remain a real source of strensrth. KIOTO. A TOWN of temples — Kioto, the " holj; city" of Japan — covers a level plain, at the base of surrounding ranges of mountains, with a sea of brown roofs above which rise the white walls and towers of the ten thousand temples that give the city its " holy " character. Kioto is in the southern part of the island of Niphon, not far from the city of Osaka with which it is connected by railway, and some three hundred miles from Tokio to the northeast with which it is connected by the splendid national road known as the Tokaido. The population is variously estimated as from two hundred and fifty thousand to half a million. The river Kano cuts through the city, supplying it with the purest of water ; its streets are clean, its temples beautiful and its silk factories widel}' celebrated. It is for its temples however that Kioto is mainly celebrated. There are within the city limits 10,014 Buddhist and Shinto temples and the religious buildings and tlie grounds around them are the most interesting features of Kioto to strangei-s. Of these temples the largest and most venerable is the Buddhist temple of Ki-yo-midzu, built eleven hundred years ago. It is built on a steep mountain side and possesses a curious wooden image called Biusurusaw which has the healing property to so great an extent that the afflicted believes by rubbing his sore spot against the corresponding spot on the image he can experience an immediate cure. Here also is the Dai-Butsu — the " great Buddha," a wooden image of the god seventy feet high, but not to be compared in size or celebrity to the real Dai-Butsu erected at ancient Nara, midway between Kioto and Osaka. For more than a thousand years Kioto was the religious capital of Japan, the residence of the Mikado, the sacred ruler, and the oldest dynasty on earth. It is tonlay " the most be-templed city " in the world and has a stirring history of war, rebellion, sieges, fire, earthquake and flood. Of its appearance to-chiy Miss Bird says : " With its schools, hospitals, lunatic asylum, prisons, dispensaries, alms-houses, fountains, public parks and gardens, exquisitely beautiful cemeteries and streets of almost painful cleanliness, Kioto is the best arranged and best managed city in Japan." The old palace of the Mikado is now a public museum of arts and manufactures and the spirit of progress that is emancipating Japan will soon revolutionize even this center of pagan life and worship. PITTSBURG. THE " City of Smoke " is a smoky city no longer, nor lias it been since the year 1884. All descriptions of it prior to that date are quite obsolete. Natural Gas, itself the issue of darkness, has been the means of dispelling darkness. The pillar of cloud l)y day and the pillar of fire by night that have hitherto attended Pittsburg on her onward industrial march have departed, but she advances none the less surely on that account. At last Pittsburg has become the beautiful city Nature intended it to be, when she furnished it with bluffs and valleys and girded it with streams as mirrors for its countenance. The meeting and blending of the two rivers (Alleghany and Monongahela) into a single largei- river (the Ohio) and of their valleys into a larger valley, makes for one whose point of view is lofty enough a huge letter Y, in the crotch of which like a bird's nest in a tree-crotch rests the city itself. The first three quarters of a mile or so back from the vertex of the angle thus formed is an industrial plain terminated somewhat abruptly by high bluffs that in turn terminate on each side, so as to leave liowever, strips of low land a few hundred yards wide between themselves and the river margins, over which such of the huge machine shops and foundries as can find no room in the plain, sprawl for a distance of six or seven miles. 1-28 GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. 129 Pittsburg is to-day a great railway center, and yet there probably never lias been a time since it was enough of a place to deserve any recognition whatever, that manufacturing luus iiot dominated its life. It is as truly a product of the iron mines as San Francisco of the gold mines, as distinctively the Lit)n City of America as Fiirniingham of Enghmd. liy the census of 1880 Pennsylvania manufactured about fifty per cent, of all the iron in the country, and Alleghany County, one fourth of the iron in Pennsylvania. So that Pittsbui-g may be said to have practically manufactured twelve and one half per cent, tn- one eighth of all the iron manufactured in the United States. It had, in 1887, nineteen blast fuinaces and lifty-six iron and steel mills whose product was three hundred and twenty thousand tons of iron pipes, three hundred and sixty thousand tons of Bessemer steel, forty-two thousand tons of crucible steel, one hundred and thirty-two thousand tons of railwa}' supplies, three hundred and sixty thousand tons of rails — one thousand for almost every day in the year — and tw(j hundred loco- motives — one for every other day in the year and some to spare. Steam engines, fire-proof safes, chains, nuts, bolts and nails are the other most important iron manufactures. Second in signilicance only to the iron and steel industry, both in extent and age is the glass industry. The first window-glass works were opened in 179G, four 3'ears after the setting up of the first iron furnace. Today there aie over seventy-live glass factories in the city, the plate glass product alone averaging over two hundred and fifty thousand square feet per month, to tmy nothing of window glass, bottles and lamp chimneys. Oil refining is also very important, but by no means what it ought to be considering that Pittsburg is the natural metropolis and business center of the oil district. The iron, steel, glass and oil industries are so gigantic that every other dwindles \uululy in comparison, lint Pittsbuig certainly ought to be accorded the credit of having the largest cork factory iii the world, and some aluminum works, a new venture upon the success or failure of which mighty destinies are hanmntr- ^^K^v ok pittsbukg fko.m coal hill. A RAINY DAY IX PI'BI.IN STREETS. DUBLIN. DUBLIN, the town of the " Black PooL" the capital of Ireland, is a city of curious contvastis, full of lights and shadows, like the Irisli nation itself. A city of splendid houses and of rude shanties, where squalor jostles magnificence, and a stately mansion stands almost side bj- side with poor tumble-down residences, inhabited by people whom scarcely a vivid imagination dare call the "deserving poor." The city's plan is simple enough. From east to west the River Liffej- flows through the center, and bridges connect the long" lines of streets running in parallel lines north and south. The most imposing avenue is Sackville Street, " one of the finest thoroughfares in Europe," although its long vista is somewhat broken by the Nelson Pillar, a beautiful fluted Doric column, soaring to a height of one hundred and thirty-four feet. Westmoreland Street, too, with its Bank of England, is a fine, broad street. Still, there is no uniformity in the buildings of Dublin ; owing to the want of a building act, high jostles low and splendor elbows shabby gentility ; within the last twent}' yeare many of the wealthy Dublin merchants have built spacious country-seats in large gardens outside the town, so that the population has apparently decreased, although it numbers two hundred and fifty thousand souls ; or with its suburbs nearly three hundred and fifty thousand. The site of the ancient city in the southwest corner had for years a rather unsavory reputation for irregularity and filth ; although somewhat improved, still, the drainage of tlie city, which pours into the River Liffey, does not add to its salubrity, the high death-rate being twentj^-seven in every thousand. In this part of the city lie Christ's Church and the old and interesting Cathedral of St. Patrick with its foundation dating back to 1190. Above the southern half of the city, on an eminence tower the grim brick walls of Dublin Castle, which an Irish patriot has forcibly termed a " stronghold of liell." 130 GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. 131 Within tlie past few years the hot Irish blood, (loaded hy recent acts of Enj^land, has run high in Dublin, and temperate men of both' parties iiave denounced some of its manifestation. Just outside the cit}' lies the beautiful Phoenix Park with its 1759 acres of woodland and meadow, its solitude broken only by tlie Vice-Regal and C'liief-Secretary's Lodges. Here, in the beautiful season when these lodges are inhabited, was committed the auilacious political muidcr of r'avcn- disli and Burke which startled the whole civilized world. For yccars to come it is to be feared Dublin will be memorable rather for that Imsty deed, than for her beautiful Trinity College founded by ''good Queen Bess," her picturesque environs, or her many charital)le or scientific institutions, which are of a size and character of which any city may be justly proud. rnCEXIX PAKK, DUBLIN. SEOUL. IN the Hermit Kingdom — Corea, the "Land of Morning Calm," that vast peninsula jutting out from Northern China, between the Yellow Sea and the Sea of Japan — is Seoul, its capital city. It is the chief town of the province of Kieng-Kee and is the residence of the imperial court of (^crea. It is not an imposing city and scarce even picturesque. It is situated on the Kiang River not far from the Yellow Sea, and is surrounded with high, thick walls of masonry, nearly a thousand paces in circuit. " The only buildings in Seoul," says Mr. Lanman, " honored with tiled roofs, excepting the king's residence, are a single temple and one government depart- ment." The castle of the king, built of cut stone, has a certain air of strength and importance. The houses of the city are all thatched and built on one pattern. They are as miserable as are the inhabitants of this great, overgrown, ignorant, proud, suspicious and inhospitable oriental city of over a quarter of a million. But even here the wall of exclusiveness is being slowly levelled. Civilization i.s knocking at the gates of Seoul and the '• Land of Morning Calm " will know in time the morning dawn. VIEW ol UI;^;^1)KN. DRESDEN. NEAR the mountains of "Saxon Switzerland,"" in a fertile and picturesque valley of the Saxon wine-distrit't, on both sides of the Elbe, here crossed by two beautiful stone bridges, lies the capital of Saxony, the art-center of Germany, Dresden. Divided by the curving stream of the Elbe, the Altstadt on the south, with its pii'turesque promenades overlying the site of the old fortifications which the Fi-ench raised, is very picturesque — the houses are lofty, and, though the streets m this old part are somewhat narrow and dingy, an air of German thrift and cleanliness pervades the wdiole. In the Neustadt the streets ai-e wider, the open squares more frequent, the modern houses lower and broader, and a general sense of air and space replaces the crowded picturesqueness of the older pait. Close by the old stone bridge lies the beautiful Briihl terrace, originally a garden designed by the minister of Augustus TIL, and a favorite promenade until its approaches were somewhat spoilt by the erection of new buildings on the Elbe's banks. Also in the Altstadt, in the spacious open square to which the bridge leads, lies the extensive Palace, four hundi-ed and fifty years old, to which the magnificence-loving Augustus the Strong, the Lorenzo de Medici of Dresden, made many additions in the early part of the eighteenth century. Opposite the palace lies the museum which constitutes the northeast wing of the Zwinger begun b\^ Augustus 11. in 1711. In these two buildings are housed the most famous of all Dresden's far- famed works of art; and here, from all over the world, especially from America, lovers of art congregate in this Florence of Germany. Here the mild-eyed Sistine Madonna, with the inspired face, looks down from the walls of the " finest picture-gallery iu Europe." 132 GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. 13 oo In the Museum Johanneum, anotlier sort of art, rococo in style, hut extjuis- ite in finish, the glory of Dresden is (lisphiyed. Over fifteen thousand speci- mens of delicate porcelain, much of it of the finest Dresden ware, chronolog- ically arranged from the discovery ot the art, are here displayed. The Royal Porcehiin manufactory, where these ex- quisite works were designed, lies at Meissen, fifteen miles out of Dresden ; over the crossed swords which form the menacing plate-mark of the Dres- den china, the secret of its manufac- ture was jealously guarded until the Prussians occupied the picturesque old town during the Seven Years' War, when Dresden as well as Meissen suffered so severely. Time would fail to tell of the various attractions, artistic and natural, of Dresden ; formerly one of tlie cheapest capitals in Europe in which to reside, it is now, on account of its beautiful situation and numerous advantages, one of the dearest. Still, in its environs, along the mountain- bordered banks of the Elbe, lie many castle-crowned heights and picturesque villages, where, in the little mountain inns, " plain living and high thinking " may be cultivated. From these, as a point d'appui, the art-treasures of Dresden may be reverently approached and carefully studied by the student who is forced to combine economy with love of art. A residence of many months in Dresden's neighborhood will not suffice to exhaust her numerous attractions, or render common- place her infinite variety. BKIDGE OVKK THK KLBli. LISBON. STRETCHING nearly five miles along the banks of the Tagus and extending northward over the hills to a width of nearl}' three miles, the capital of the Kingdom of Portugal, Lisbon, with its fields and its gairdens, its handsome squares, straight streets and lofty houses, its arches, statues, palaces, parliament buildings, theaters and public places, is a city of much interest, of a certain historical importance, and a fair commercial standing. Its most active commerce is with Brazil and Great Britain. It is the largest port in the little Kingdom of Portugal and 1x)asts of being the birth-place of two famous men — St. Anthon}- of Padua and Camoens, Portugal's greatest poet. The palace of the King is in the handsome suburb of Belem. It was intended to .be one of the largest palaces in Europe, but has never been finished. Her churches, though numerous, are neither great nor grand ^- that of the Estrella. suggesting St. Paul's in London, being the most striking. Ancient Lisbon clustei's about the rocky hill on which stands the citadel of 'St. George. The old town is cut by narrow and tortuous streets, suggesting the Moors and still retains its old Moorish name, Alfama. The new town is in that section of the city which was rebuilt after the gi'eat earthquake of 1755. Its streets are straight, its buildings lofty, and of its four squares the handsomest is the Praqa do Commercio fronting the river and surrounded by handsome public buildings. The cit}- is quaint, interesting and attractive, and affords study alike for the antiquarian wlio traces its many centuries of existence, and for the lover of progress who sees how surely the new and convenient is crowding the old and traditional. BARCELONA. LARGE brick buildings, long bouudaiy walls, piles of bnikling mate- rials, smoking towers, factories and workmen — a dulf, diffused, incieasing sound like the labor- ed breath of a great city that is moviTig and working — and all about it, the port, the sea, a wreath of hills — Barcelona I "" Such is the Italian traveler, De Amicis', first impression of the pleasant city that is the industrial and commercial cen- ter of Eastern Spain — a city which in its prime Avas the rivtal of Genoa and Venice, and which to-day is the home of an intelligent, industrious, gay and pleasure-loving population of some two hundred and seventy thousand souls. The main street of the city is the Kambla, broad and straight, shaded by two rows of trees and crossing nearly the entire city. The seashore is flanked by a spacious prome- nade and to the north lies the new city, an addition since 1860, elaboiately laid out and almost English in inchitecture. " On all the surrounding lieights," says De Amicis, " ri.se villas ; little palaces and facto- ries which dispute the ground jostle each other, appearing one behind the other until they fojm a great wreath around the city. On every side there is manufacturing, transforming and renovating. Her people work and prosper and Barcelona flourishes." The industries of this busy Spanish city are many — tlie spinning and weaving of wool, cotton and silk being the most important. Barcelona's shipping trade is extensive ; its exports and imports ai-e considerable ; its harbor is now fairly good and its railway communications and facilities are ample. Prominent among the city's buildings are the Cathedral, six hundred years in building and not yet finished, the University in the new town, the Liceo, one of the largest and most beautiful theaters in Europe, wliile in the Street of Paradise, '^ost in the midst of modern houses," are several enorraons Roman cohunns, relics of the old day when the world's conquerors wrested the city from its Carthaginian founders. 134 SANTIAGO. THE capital of Chili is framed about with some of the most magnificent scenery in the world. It is in the center of a lovely valley, encompassed l)y shapely mountains of magnificent proportions. With so gi-and and inspiring a pageant always to be seen from its Alameda and its Santa Lucia, Santiago, according to Mr. Ford, has not neglected its opi)ortunities. " It is," he says, "a handsome and impressive city, with beautiful parks, striking architectnral effects in its public buildings and churches, and ordei'ly, well-kept lines of streets. The sole source of disfigure- ment is the river flowing through the town, which at certain seasons of the year labors under the disadvantage of not having any water in it, but this is shielded from view by walls and embank- ments and rendered as sightly as possible." The population of the city is very neaily two hundred and fifty thousand. The main plaza has the Post-Oflice and Government buildings on one side, the ambitious fagade of the Grand Hotel on another, and the Cathedral, with a cross, high in air, to demonstrate a sacred character which its general architectural lines do not reveal. The Capitol is a block away, a massive struc- ture, with two high stories and a flat roof and lines of shapely columns at the entrances on each side. It is the handsomest and most imposing hall of deputies to be seen in South America, and is surrounded by well-kept, if narrow, grounds, with one graceful and finely proportioned statue near the main entrance. The National Library is close by, with the palaces of justice adjoining. The University of Santiago is a stately structure, and it has well-equipped faculties and appliances for higher education. Probably no university in South America has a better academic reputation or is doing a larger work. The astronomical observatory has lovely surroundings in a well-shaded, semi-tropical garden. The Parque Cousino and the Quinta Diaz Gana also have charming sites and are most picturesque structures. The Quinta Normal is a horticultural garden and museum of natural history, with fine grounds tastefully laid out. Santiago abounds in good architecture of a classic type and in public gardens and promenades of genuine natural attractions. With excellent hotels, good theaters, fine drives, and objects of interest which cannot be exhausted in a fortnight of industrious sight-seeing, it has evei-ything to attract and charm a traveler. With the exception of Rio, there is scarcely a South American city as interesting as is Santiago. The Alameda is a broad avenue over two miles long, with double lines of trees and a series of monuments and statues commemorative of the public services and heroic deeds of various patriots. Santa Lucia, once a neglected and barren rock in the heart of the city, it is now the best pleasure-ground of the capital. It is approached by winding carriage roads and shaded walks, is ornamented with terraces, parterres of flowers, artistic balustrades, rustic arbors, a chapel, a statue, and a series of high lookouts commanding magnificent prospects of the Andes, the Mari- time Range and the capital itself. There is a theater here on the highest ground in the city, and also an excellent restaurant. The flowers and vines on this lofty rock, overhanging the Alameda, are kept fresh and beautiful by constant watering, and Santai Lucia is the most pictures(|ue and artistic feature of the capital. BORDEAUX. THE old city of the Gauls, the commercial and educational center of the Roman provinces of Aquitania — the walls and towers, the schools and palaces of Burdigala had an ancient fame and state that the modern Bordeaux still possesses. The Bordeaux of tonlay is one of the finest and wealthiest of French cities, with a well-wharfed harbor, a fertile environment, wide, well-paved streets (in the new section), handsome housing and imposing public buildings. Few European cities have so striking a water-front, few can boast of a more notable collection nf 1.3.5 136 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. educational institutions. Its libraiy, dating from 1566, contains two hun- dred thousand volumes ; its chief hospital, that of St. Andrd, was founded in 1390. It lias a mag- nificent asylum for the deaf and dumb, fine theaters, schools of theol- ogy, law, science, litera- ture, medicine and navi- gation, and its principal square is adorned not with effigies of bloody warriors and tyrant kings, but of Montaigne, the es- sayist, and Montesquieu, the philosopher. It has an extensive trade, that, in wines being the most prominent, and the days of railway and steamship have given tlie ancient city a wonderful impetus. The streets and buildings of the old town are narrow and picturesque and the Palais Gallicnus is really an old Roman amphitheater of the third century. Ship-building is a leading industry, and the broad basin into which the river Garonne widens affords splendid harborage and is crossed by a magnificent stone bridge built on seventeen arches. ih 111 il;iiK Al X.. EDINBURGH. AFTER all is said, there is no place like Edinburgh. London and Paris themselves do not compare in charm with this wind-swept capital of the Scottish Highlands ; despite her l)leak climate, tliere is an Italian-like charm about the juxtaposition of New and Old that year after year brings the tourist back to gaze from her crags upon the castle-crowned lieights. Sit in your big window in the splendid Royal Hotel facing Prince's Street, " perhaps the finest street in all Europe," with its broad pavements, its equestrian statues, its sjilendid stores, their windows glistening with cairngorms, Scotch plaids and tartans in brilliant reds and greens and blues, and watch the crowds of tall, handsome men and finely-dressed women sweep b}'. From the kaleidoscopic gayety of the New Edinbuigh you look across to the grim, smoky "Auld Reekie," Between the past and the present, the Cowgate with its twelve-story-high gabled houses crowding each other in narrow " wynds," and the Broadway of Prince's Street lined with hotels and clubhouses, a great gulf is fixed : but its depths are filled by the smiling Prince's Gardens clad in living green, and the Old and New are connected by the Moiind and the Waverley Bridge, under which whiz the frequent trains. Between you and the Castle Heights, limned against the sky, soars the magnificent cathedral-like moiuiment to the " Wizard of tlie North." It is fitting that between the Old and the New town the eye shguld rest on this link between the past and the present, and that the statue of Sir Walter Scott enthroned in its delicately carved Gothic arch should be the tie that binds the sunny foreground to the dark but picturesque past. Across the ravine in the Old Town, even despite the revolutionar}- improvements of Mr. Chambers, though a few curious corners have V)een swept away by the broom of progress, there is still much of picturesqueness untouched. The well-smoked Old Town with its " cliff of building-s ^ i t ^ pi f- n c =■. ^ I E^ 5 138 GKEAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. STATm OF Sm WALTER SCOTT. which liangs immhieut over Waverley Bridge," would still put majiy natural precipices to shame. Out of dusty windows ten stories above the ground, the poor man may gaze across the green gulf of Prince's Gardens into the homes of the Avealthy with their squares and parks or look off towards the shimmering sea. Tlie best view point is the Castle. It is the embodied essence of Edinburgh's history from the time when Edwin, king of Northumbria, founded a fortress on the Castle Rock in 617 to the occupation of the city by Prince Charles Edward in 1745 ; more than a thousand years of stirring Scottish history when the pibrocli played and the clans marfthed out to fight for the Prince and the Right lie buried in its grim old walls that now hold the precious crown jewels. It is a breathless climb to the craggy height where only the wild shrubs can cling ; as we enter by the draw-bridge, cross the old moat, pass under the portcullis and face the big cannon " Mons Meg," the pride of Scotland, the magnificent view of the eit}' with the Firth of Forth and the Highland Hills in the background chains us to the spot. Far below lies the spire of St. Giles. Close to it between the Cowgate and High Street lies the Par- liament House, built on a slope and rising one story to the north and half a dozen to the south ; here history was made, here the legal lights of the Scottish bar still plead before the judges in the self-same spot where Scott sat and wrote many a page of Waverley to the "drone of judicial proceeding." Beyond St. Giles rises the high steeple of the Tron Church ; following the south, back of Cowgate in the same direction the eye rests upon the quadrangle of Holyrood in the grassy Queen's Park which nestles at the foot of Salisbury Crags and the rugged Arthur's Seat, eight hundred and twenty-two feet above the sea. The charming Queen's Drive encircles the crags ; but it is a stiff though short climb to Arthur's Seat. Here, instead of being in the center, as on the Castle Heights, you are at the end of the town ; its mass of gables and spires, its green gardens, its Waverley Station in the heart of the town buried between the Old and the New, all rise before you. Across the narrowing triangle of the Old Town lies Calton Hill, another of the three heights upon which Edinburgh, like Boston, prides herself ; but even the hardy Scotchman would scarcely build his cot where the " angry airt " and the " cauld blast " reigns supreme and no plaidie would avail for shelter. In the Old Town, about one third of the way between the Meadows and the West Prince's Street Garden, which skirt the base of the Castle cliff, rise the massive walls of Edinburgh Univer- sity, founded b)^ James the Sixth in 1582. In 1887 three thousand, six hundred students, taught, quizzed, lectured and examined by one liundred and sixteen teachers made Bristo Street and Meadow Walk lively with their pranks. The two thousand students of the jVIedical School are housed in a handsome new Renaissance building costing nearly one and a quarter million dollars. The University library of one hundred and fifty thousand volumes is rivalled only by the Advo- cates' Librar}^ of three hundred thousand, the largest in Scotland. THE CASTI.K Illl.r. DETROIT. DF/rUOIT is the oldest of all the Western cities — so nmcli tlie oldest that it can l)e truly said to be a whole century in advance of the natural proj^ress of emigration westward. Like New Orleans it has given in allegiance to three different powers, having been by turns a French village, an English town and an American city, and like New Orleans again, it lias had a large portion of romance. To-day Detroit is a beautiful city. It has shaded streets, broad avenues, creditable public buildings, attractive residences, superb warehouses and a financial center, Griswold Street, whose architecture is, according to the authority quoted above, " as far in advance of State Street in Boston and Wall Street in New York, as our time is of the last century." The " City of the Straits," as Detroit has long Ijeen called, is the natural portal to " the vast seas of sweet water." Its harbor has a greater capacity than any other on the whole chain of lakes. Indeed more vessels can ride at anchor there than in the harbors of Buffalo, Erie, C'leve- land, Milwaukee and Chicago combined. Its shipping interests are therefore enormous. More vessels pass through the Detroit River every year during the navigable period tlian come and go from New York Harbor during the same time, and in 1884 the city's tonnage was greater than that of London, in spite of the fact that the river Avas frost-bound for four months. Grain, lumber, copper and iron ore are the most important articles of transportation, two hundred and fifty million feet of lumber, for instance, being handled in 1886. The iron, steel and related industries employ more hands than any others — stoves, marine boilers, safes and architectural iron-work being their principal products, but as an iron city Detroit ranks below some other cities on and in the vicinity of the lakes. It is first in the following par- ticulars : car-wheels, stoves, fine cut tobacco, drugs and chemicals, and capsules, one firm alone producing of these last two thirds of the entire product of the United States. It has the largest freight car factory in this country, the largest varnish works in the world and one of its seed firms han^fles more seeds than any other in existence. STOCKHOLM. '"T^HE last half of June when the days are long and the twilights singularly beautiful, when the J_ evening and the morning lights sjiining thiough the young and springing verdure produce fairy-like effects reflected from the water, is the season of all others in which to visit Stock- holm, the capital of Sweden — the Venice of the North. The area of the present city is nearly thirteen square miles ; of which about one twenty-fifth is water. Nearly four miles in length from north to south, its circumference measures fourteen and one quarter miles. In Staden, the narrow and winding streets, with some few, houses (preserved from fire) with verj^ narrow frontage and pointed gables turned towards the street as in Belgium and North Germany, all indicate the ancient origin, ai)d show that this portiq;i is the old city. Here is the Royal Palace, restored and enlarged after the fire of 1697, and ]-ich with art treas- ures. Near it stands the ancient church of St. Nicholas. Staden is also the business center of the cfty : here are the Exchange, the Banks, the Custom-house and the handsome offices of inany well-to-do Stockholm magnates. On its east an immense qtiay called the Skeppsbro, serves as a landing-place for the steamers which ply to foreign ports or the northern ports of Sweden. Riddarsholm. an island portion of the city, lying in Lake Miliar, midway between the north and south portions of the capital, contains the famous old Franciscan church, which, since the time of Gustavus Ailiiljjlius has I>een used for the burial-place of the royal family. Near by stand the 139 140 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. houses where the Storthing, or parliament, is held and the statue of the founder of Stockholm looks down upon the men who govern Sweden and Norway to-day. Another island, called the Island of the Holy Ghost, is somewhat irreverently filled to-day with the royal stables. The " northern suburb " of Stockholm rejoices in the large market of Gustavns Adolphus, where his statue stands ward between the Palace of the Crown Prince and the Theater Royal. In another portion of the city, which was formerly the Royal farmyard, more than forty thou- sand people reside and it is now one of the finest parts of the city. A fine park, the Royal Library and the statue of Linnaeus, the father of modern botany, are sights well worth seeing here. The introduction of the new water-supply into Stockholm has greatly built up this portion. In fact, water, salt as well as fresh, has played a veiy important part in Stockholm's develop- ment. Into all parts of the city, from all sides permeates tlie water — separating and yet uniting. In the summer the city is almost deserted : as the water stretches enticingly away between beauti- ful islands, some o[)en and cultivated, some bold and rock-clad covered with pines and beech, it seems to beckon the inliabitants away and carries tliem on its bosom into the picturesque environs. The water, too, renders the climate comparatively mild and salubrious — although winter lasts seven months in the year. Only an hour's distance is Upsala, with its great university sacred to Linnaeus and its splendid library — all around are the beautiful suburbs bordering on the Malar Lake. Down into the heart of the citj- sometimes come the quaint-clad peasant girls of Dalecarlia, with their bright-colored dresses, glittering bodices and high-conical caps characteristic of the Swedish peasantrv. They lend the charm and animation and life to the scene, which is bright and ani- mated enough at times to suggest some Italian town, rather than a city of the cold and frozen North, especially down by the quays at Staden, where fly the flags of every nation, the blue, j'ellow and white of Sweden and the red. white and blue of Norway predominating ; while Majesty, in the shape of King Oscar, can look out from his study in the Roj-al Palace on the picturesque groups of sailors from all climes, jesting or brawling below his study windows. VIKW OK &1UCKUOL.M. WASHINGTON. w 'ASHINGTON owes its existence to a dinner party, or, to be more exact, to a i)olitical bai yain stiuck at a dinner party, the boon bargainers being none other than the great leaders of the Federalists and Anti-Federalists, Alexander Hamilton and T]if)mas Jeffer- son. Each pledged himself and his State delegation to the support of the darling project of his lival. And so Hamilton's financial policy cnlminated gloiiously in the assnmption of the State debts by the Federal (iovernment, and the site of the national capital was fixed on the borders of Jefferson's own State of Vircfinia. When Washington was laid out the checker-board system of Philadelphia was followed with the sti-eets, but the avenues were made to radiate transversely from two foci a mile apart, on which the Capitol and the White House were to stand. In respect to nomenclature also, the Philadelphia system was considerably moclilied. The avenues were named after the States, care beinsf taken to avoid offense by assigning to the most in- fluential States the most important avenues ; east and west running streets were designated by the letters of the alphabet, and north and south streets by numerals. Everything was on a truly colossal scale ; streets were from ninety to one hundred and twenty feet wide, ave- nues from one hundred and twenty to one hundred aiul fifty. These, plus the open squares and triangles at their intersections, equalled one half the entire municipal area as against an average of one fourth in other cities. A "city of magnificent distances" it certainly was. and for the first half-cexituiy — it may as well be admitted — that was about all it was. There were streets, but no houses ; avenues, but no jieople. But the great war which changed so many other things changed Washington as well, hi those days Nation got to mean more than it had, and the national capital ceased to be a figure-head. Out of it came the issues of life and death and liberty for millions. People began to live in its great empty spaces ; so many of them that in the ten years between 1860 and "70, the population doubled. At the close of the decade its municipal government was exchanged for a territorial one, and this was the signal for the inauguration of a series of improvements quite on a par for magnitude with the scale on which it was originally laid out. Tw^enty million dollars having been spent in less than four years. Congress not unnaturally became alarmed at A\hat it deemed reckless extravagance, abolished the territorial government and ap[)ointed a commissioner in the hope of immediate retrenchment. But the commission Avas obliged to finish the work. The result was a debt of twenty-thiee million dollars on a total valuation of eighty million dollars ; heavier than that of any other city in the world. In 1878, an act was passed imposing on the United States Govern- nient one half the interest on the debt and one half the current expenses, and providing for a per- manent gnvernment to consist of three commissioners appointed by the President. This last experiment has proved eminently successful. Washington is by far the best-governed city in the country, though in theory it is something of an anomaly that the citizens of the capital of a deiuocracy should have absolutely no voice in city affairs. Now, all is changed. It is indeed hard for any one not on the spot to realize the transforma- tion wrought by a score of j'ears, the last twelve of wdiich have l)een mainly devoted to snpple- 141 ihonumt. 142 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. • THE CAPITOL AND l'EXX6YLVAXIA AVEXL'E FROM THE WHITE HOUSE. nienting and polishing off in details the wholesale repaii-s of the first eight. Blank distances have become entrancing vistas, and every intei-section is a point of view. Seventy thousand shade trees in the streets alone, not to mention those in the squares, add comfort and beautj-, miles upon miles of asphalt pavement fissure pleasant walks and drives at all seasons, broad strips of close- cropped greensward line both sides of the avenues, and red brick residences of varied and elegant architecture give proof sufficient that Washington has felt as muoh as other cities the influence of the Renaissance in the art of home-building. The Capitol is the largest Government building in the world, its new wings alone covering an area greater than any cathedral except St. Peter's. It was many years in assuming its present form. George Washington laid the corner-stone September 8. 170-3. The wings were completed in 1811, and Inirned only three years later by the Hritish. In 1827, the center was completed and in tlie meantime the wings had been rebuilt. The new dome was finished in 1863 and the exten- sions to the wings in 1807. As it stands to-tlay it represents a cost of fifteen and one half million dollars. The Rotunda under the dome is justly famous for its loftiness and impressiveness, but the less said about its decorations of painting and sculpture the better. About it are grouped the National Hall of Statuary, the chambers of the House, Senate and Supreme Court and the Con- gressional Library, the largest collection of books in the country. For this last, however, a separate building is soon to be provided east of the Capitol, which is to have a capacity of four million books, and is estimated to cost four million, five hundred thousand dollai-s. The White House — so called because it requires a fresli coat of white paint annually to pre- serve its soft stone from disinteg-ration — is at tlie other end of Pennsvlvania Avenue from the Capitol, at a distance of over a mile. The two buildings were thus widely separated by design, the wily founders of the Government thinking thus to prevent too close association between the Executive and the Legislative departments. It has been the home of every President and his family except Washington, and consequently must have been the scene of many gorgeous and some ridiculous spectacles. It is a mansion of considerable stateliness. and considering the time it was built may make some pretensions on the score of elegance. But after all, it is hardly worthy the chief of so great a nation even as a residence, and is certainly entirely inadequate for both this and the transaction of executive business. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 14y (.)ii the east side of the Wliiie House is the Treasury, a liuge granite l)uihUn<( in tiie ionic style which cost six million dollars ; on tlie west a single structure devoted to the tliree depart- ments of State, War and Navy, just completed at a cost of ten million dollars. Half a mile away to the south dominating all views and closing all vistas stands the Washington Monument, dedi- cated on Washington's Birthday, 1885 — thirty -eight years after the laying of its corner-stone — a towering if tardy tribute to the greatest of Americans. It is the highest stone structure in the world, and the highest artificial eminence except the Eiffel Tower. Its total cost was one million, two hundred thousand dollars, three hundred thousand dollars of which was raised Ijy subscription. The Smithsonian Institution is housed in a pile of dark sandstone Norman buildings situated in the Mall, south of the Botanical Gardens which are themselves adjacent to the Capitol. Its en- dowment is the only legacy ever received by the United States government, and this, strangely enough, came from an lilnglishman, James Smithson, a scientist, whose faith in the United States was only equalled by his abhorrence and distrust of the despotic Governments of the Old World. He bequeathed his entire property of over half a million in these words : " To the United States of America, to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an establish- ment for the inci'ease and diffusion of knowledge among men." The form which the institution assumed, when in 184(5 under the leadership of Professor Josepli Henry it began its work, was a unique but admirable interpretation of the liberal provisions of the will. Its objects were then declared to be " to prosecute methods of abstruse research, and publish the results," to get together " a library of the transactions of learned societies and records of discoveries and inventions " and "a museuni illustrative of the resources of North America." In pursuance of these objects it has alieady attained large results. Next to the Smithsonian Institution is the National Museum — five acres under a single roof. Its collections are intensely interesting and cover a ver}- wide range, but are not yet equal to similar ones in Europe. Among other noteworthy public edifices aie the Naval Observatory, the New Army and Nav}' and Medical jNIuseums, the C'orcoran Art Gallery, the Post-office — Corinthian — and the new building of the Interior Department — Doric. Such is the city. Who are its people ? One third are negroes, and the}- are generally admitted to be a very useful element. Of the other two thirds, congressmen, judges, diplomats, politicians, lobbyists, army and navy officers and Government employSs and their families consti- TllE CAPITOL. 144 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. MOI'NT VKItXON. ■HOMK OK WASniXOTON. tute a inajority. There is besides a large and rapidly increasing number of winter residents, peo- ple of wealth and leisure who have nothing to do with politics or the Government. The scientists of the departments are so numerous and so al)le that tliere can no longer be any doubt as to the location of the scientific center of America. Tliere are no laboring people — in the common sense of that word — inasmuch as there are no industries and no commerce. The combination of the above-mentioned elements })roduces an atmosphere fii"st of all cosmopolitan and second democratic ; it cannot in the nature of the case be local, provincial or even distinctly or narrowly national. Politics and society are the foci of its activity, and these two continually overlap although the extent to which politics have coai-sened society has just as certainly been gi'ossly exaggerated by the novelists and newspapers as has the biilliance and costliness of living in the Capital by the popular imagination. "Society in New York," says a recent critic who has had wide o])po]tunities for observation in l)oth cities, "is more dashing, exacting, costly than in Wasjiington, Imt it occupies less space in the public eye." Washington, beautiful as it is, is not a finished cit}-. But if everything is not yet done, there is fortunately almost nothing that needs to l)e undone or done over — a thing that can hardly be said of another city in the New World or the Old. It is not a " finished city," but it is ready for the finish. And now that the American people are at last thoroughly alive to the fact that tliey have a Capital, there is no reason why it should not ultimately take as proud a position among capital cities as the United States has already taken among the nations of the woild. TURIN. IN a beautiful plain of North Italy, surrounded by the Alps, lying on the Po at its confluence with a smaller stream, both rivers being spanned by noble arched stone bridges, approached from the west by a splendid avenue, one of the largest and finest in Eurojje, few cities have a finer approach or a more imposing effect than has Turin although its magnificence is mostly of recent date. In the modern city the monotony of the broad streets intersecting at right angles is relieved by the lofty houses, many witli rich, sculptured faqades and beautiful decorations, while ever and anon, through the long vistaed streets break glorious glimpses of the Graian and Cottian Alps and sunny hills, lending a touch of brightness and beauty to the walls and arcaded streets of the capital of Piedmont. For a city of such ancient lineage, Turin possesses few heirlooms ; few Italian cities are so poor in ancient buildings; but, to balance this lack, its modern edifices are numerous and magnificent. The ancient castle, the Palazzo Madaina in the center of the great Square of the Piazza Castello, the heart of the town, is the only medi£eval stiaicture of which Turin can boast : its beginnings date from the thirteenth century when it was erected by William of Montserrat. In the Royal Palace is the most interesting Royal Armory ; where flags, armor, swords and all the cumbrous war-machinery of the Middle Ages are displayed. Another palace contains the Picture Galler)', which is later in date and distinctly inferior to those of most Italian cities. A favorite promenade is the New Public Garden, which is thronged by a merry Italian crowd, especially in the evenings. Nor must the rniveisit}-, a large and magnificent building, with its students numbering nearly one thousand, eight liundred, l)e forgotten. Turin's wealtli, wliicli is great, is derived chiefly from her silk-manufacture, which employs a vast number of hands. Wine and liquors, fruit and corn are also staple articles of trade, and the industry and perseverance of her inhal)itants has caused Turin i-eadily to recover from the losses inflicted by war and the removal of the Court. Turin has been the focus for the Italian struggles foi' unity and liberty ; many handsome statues of her heroes adorn the spacious streets and courts; chief among which is the monument to Count Cavour, erected by the grateful city of his birth in 1873. Its motto, "a free churcli in a free state," balanced by statues of Justice, Duty, Policy and Independence, well represents the spirit of United Italy, whose mouthpiece has been the brave city of Turin. MINNEAPOLIS. IN 1855 there was no Minneapolis. To-flay it is a city of two hundred thousand people, famous for its enterprise, its beauty and its healthful climate. It has miles of busy streets, acres of saw mills, flour mills and iron foundries, four large parks, a magnificent system of boulevards, palatial residences, the Mimiesota State University and suburbs with such charming bits of natural scenery as Lake Minnetonka and the Falls of Minnehaha — a city New England in its make-up and its spiiit, •' a new Boston in the region of the lakes." If it were incumbent upon one to. name the factors which have contributed most to the ex- traordinary development of ^linneapolis, the three that Avould first suggest themselves wouhl ])e : the Falls of St. Anthony, the wheat fields of Minnesota and Dakota, and the invention of a new method of purifying middlings. 14o 146 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. CITY HALL AND COCUT UOISE. The Falls of St. Anthony make a total descent of eighty-two feet within the city limits, twenty-five feet in a single plunge, the other fifty- seven in rapids. They make a superb water-power, for the utilization and preservation of which everything has been done that mechanical skill can do. A dam has been built some dis- tance above, to which a boom for logs is attached, and still further up reser- voirs have been provided in which, durinsr the flooded season, water is stored for consumption during the summer droughts. Even the falls themselves have been covered with planking to prevent the erosion of the bed rock. . These devices have marred much of the original beauty of the turbulent stream, but it still presents — at least in spring and win- ter — a marvellous spectacle for the heart of a great citv. The Falls of St. Anthony have come to be as inseparable from every mental picture of Minneapolis as the Thames from London or the Seine from Paris. The wheat lands which pour their harvests into Minneapolis are without a rival on the conti- nent in richness and extent. Minnesota alone is larger than all New England; and Minnesota and Dakota together are equal %o three and one half New Englands. Their combined annua wheat product is over seventv-five million bushels. Some of this product goes to St. Paul and more still to Duluth. but so long as her water-power continues unimpaired, Minneapolis is sure of its quota. But neither her water-power nor her position relative to the wheat held^ would have suffice.l to crive Minneapolis her present enviable prosperity had it not been for the discovery of a new method of bolting 1)V whicli the most nutritive portions of the wheat kernel were saved. These cling closely to the bran and had formerly Ix^en waste. The invention was made by a Frenchman in I860, but it was not until 1871 that Ex-Governor Wash- burn of Wisconsin in- troduced it into the Minneapolis mills. It completely revolution- ized the milling indus- try. At that time ]Min- nesota wheat sold for thirty cents a bushel less than that of Iowa, Kansas and Missouri. But now, after a little, when the new process has itself been improved ui)on by Minneapolis millers and has become well-nigh perfect in its adaptations. Minnesota and Dakota hard spring MINNKAPOLIS riHLlC LIUllAUY. GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 147 wheat out-sells all others. In the iiieaii- tinie, Minneapolis tlour has earned the reputation of being the Ijest flour in the market and Minneapolis has grown to he one of the largest wheat and grain mar- kets in the United States, and the largest flour manufacturing city in the world. Minneapolis has also the distinction of having the two ' largest flour mill- ing firms, the Pillsbury aiul the Wash- liurn. The Pillsbury A Mill is the j)ride of the cit\-, of the wliole Northwest in fact. From twenty -four thousand bushels of wheat it turns out every day five thou- sand, two hundred barrels of flour which are packed and loaded at the late of eight per minute or five hundred and twenty per hour. In four days its out-put would load an ocean steamer. Of less importance than the flour mills, but second to them only in their relations to the business life of the city, are the Minneapolis saw-mills. They number more than a score and turn out annually more than three hundred mil- lion feet of lumber. In spite of its rapidity, the growth of the " Floury City " has been no mush- room growth, and its prosperity is no mushroom prosperity. Energy and integrity have gone hand in hand from the beginning and so far at least as the markets of the world are concerned the name " Minneapolis " is a synonym for the best. ^.jas.a«f THE F.VLLS or MIXXEIIAHA. BRISTOL. UNLIKE many commercial towns whose chief interest is in their shipping and commerce, Bristol possesses an ancient and antique flavor all her own, a mingled essence compounded of the salt sea and the mould of antiquity, so that the sentimental tourist labors under an embarrassment of riches. What shall he first visit? Shall it be the ancient Cathedral which was begun as an Augustine Abbey iu 1142, with its most beautiful Norman Chapter-House, now the only remnant of the original church, and its elder Lady Chapel begun in 1210 ? Good King Hal, who founded the bishopric in 1542, would knit his sturdy brows to find the changes from Norman to Early English and Perpendicular Gothic that this Cathedral exhibits to-day, unique as it is, among all English Cathedrals for its high arched vaulting and its singular flying arches across the aisles. Or, shall the tourist, casting a withered flower on the monument of Bishop Butler whose *' Analogy " made his early schoolboy days a dream of horror, emerge on the Cathedral's west side and linger a moment at the beautiful Norman archway of the College Gate belonging to the old Abbey buildings? Perhaps that little gem of Early English. St. Mark's Church with its curious old 148 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. COMING INTO I'OUl. monuments and Tadiant stained glass will diaw liira across the way, or St. James, one of the oldest Norman churches in Bristol, will lead him a still longer chase. High above all, even above the Cathedral itself, towers the lofty spire (two hundred and eighty-five feet high) of St. Mary Redclifife, visible as soon as the station is left. To-day, in its grass-grown close, it stands peerless as an example of rich Perpendicular Gothic. Bristol's shipping trade to-day is great and imposing; in 1886, vegsels entered her port Avith an aggregate burden of 1,343,962 tons ; they bore rich freight of sugar, rum, coffee, tobacco from the West Indies, with wool, tui'pentine, hemp, timber, wine and brandy from the United States and France. In return for this rich freight of wines and brown sugar the old Cathedral city sends out its manufactures of soap, tobacco, leather, boots and shoes, glass and brass, copper and iron, cotton, and refined sugar, formerly its staple commodity. No doubt it is obliged to send goodly quantities of sugar to sweeten its chocolate, for Fry's chocolate and cocoa factory which employs eleven hundred hands is to-tlay one of the greatest of Bristol's manufacturing industries. But Bristol ancient is more interesting than Bristol modern ; though the two are closely linked. Half-way between the Floating Harbor and the streets of Coi'u and Wine, lies the quaint, narrow little street of Mary-le-Port. with its old-fashioned houses with their high gables, many still dating from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. At the end of the street lies the beautiful Gothic pile of St. Peter's Hospital begun in the twelfth century : near by stands St. Peter's Church, the mother-church of Bristol. From the narrow picturesque streets of Bristol, where St. Augustine is said to have preached, where Cromwell razed the castle in which Queen Matilda imprisoned King Stephen, within whose Blue-Coat Colston School poor Chatterton shivered, where David Hume "clerked it" in 1734, where Sebastian Cabot was the first governor of the "Merchant Venturers " still existing, where Robert Hall lies buried, and where tablets are erected to the memory of Southey, Hugh Conway of " Called Back " fame and Mary Carpentei-, all Bristol born ; it is somewhat of a breathing relief to emerge into the beautiful and high-lying suburb of Clifton. For a breath of the fresh west sea-breeze and a glimpse of the villas of the well-to-do Bris- tolians we hie ourselves to the breezy Clifton Downs. Here on the west we see the fail- Avon GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 149 flowing through the picturesque gorge of St. Vincent's, the rocky chasm spanned l)y a noble suspension bridge of seven hundred feet span, two hundred and fifty feet above tlie rushing stream. Hard by are the remains of British earthworks with their Roman improvements. Or, if we tliink a live empress is better than a dead Roman, we can return and visit the Royal York Crescents in Clifton, where the Empress Eus2:^nie spent much of her school-life. ST. PAUL. IF I were to live on the Mississippi, I would live here," said the famous Swedish novelist, Frederika Bremer, writing from St. Paul, during her visit of several years ago. St. Paul existed only in outline then. Nothing has been lost and much has been added since to its attractions as a place of residence. Not the least of these is its beautiful location. Its four terraces overlook the rolling Minnesota prairies, lakes Elmo and Como and a score of others, and the rivers Mississippi and St. Croix. The ambitious city — itself a thing of beauty with magnifi- cent business blocks, apartment houses, palace hotels and government buildings — has resolutely climbed all the terraces and is now hurrying acioss the plateau beyond. On this plateau are the finest residences of the city. Summit Avenue (two hundred feet wide) which runs along its ridge is unquestionably the most splendid avenue in the whole new Northwest. It is a veritable crown of palaces for the brow of this fair and queenly city. Residences cover the next lower terrace also. The first and second, however, are mostly given up to business. Sanitary statistics show St. Paul to be the healthiest city in the United States, a fact easil}' accounted for by its almost perfect natural drainage, its pure water supply drawn from the clearest of the lakes with which the whole State is honeycombed, and its cool, dry, bracing atmosphere. This exceptional healthfulness is another inducement and a strong one to residence. TUF. STATE CAPITOL, ST. PAn.. 150 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. The people of St. Paul have an abundance of that indomitable pluck and energy which has come to be denominated " Xew England," and can point to prosj^erous churches, admirable public schools and growing colleges ; at the same time they have in fuU measure the social expansiveuess and hospitalit}- of New York and the Southern States from which many of them have come. But all these things, important as they are, have had and are having comparatively little influence in building up the city. The West is pre-eminently devoted to business, and St. Paul is, like every other city in this section, the child of business opportunities. It is the head of river navigation on the Mississippi and the natural focus of the transportation system of the entire Northwest. Without mentionincr freight, it is enouofh to savthat two hundred and sixtv thousand passenger cars carry about six million passengers over its roads every year, an average of twenty thousand per day. Jobbing has been its specialty from the first, and the last twenty years have witnessed a marvelous increase in the extent of it. In 1870, no exclusively wholesale house had been established, and the jobbing trade amounted to only ten million dollars. - In 1880, it was forty million dollars, in 1885, eighty-four million dollars, and in 1888, over one hundred million dollars. ^Manufactures are a A^ery recent development ; they were of little importance up to 1884, and yet in 1887, twenty thousand men were emploA-ed in the production of thirty-six million dollars' worth of manufactured goods at the same time that thirty-five new establishments with a combined capital of six million dollars were being got under headway. St. Paul history has few important dates. In 18o8, seven adventurers took up claims upon its present site. It was incorporated as a town in 1849, as a city in 1854, and was made the State capital in 1858. Its name was derived from a mission churcli that a Jesuit, Father Galtier, built in 1842, and there is a tradition that this earh' period was marked by a bitter rivalry Avith Still- water, which l)ade fair to be the larger city. And this is the same St. Paul whose real estate sales for 1887 aggregated seventy-five million dollars, and whoso new buildings in that year cost twelve million dollai-s ! Minneapolis and St. Patil touch in their municipal boundaries. Their business centers are but ten miles apart. The intervening space is occupied by the colleges, public buildings and citizen residences of each. It is impossible to contemplate their growth without a conviction that at no distant da}-, the rival cities will be one city, and that city the metropolis of the Northwest. ST. I'aUL ii:u.\i I'Kusrixr iKKiiAci:. VIEW OP SYir:;;-/. SYDNEY. THE oldest city in Amsterdam, Sydney, though outstripped by Melbourne, is still a ^-reat and growing city, the capital of the British Colony of New South Wales and the center of a large and rapidly-increasing trade. To one who imagines that a city in the Antipodes is necessarily a raw and heterogeneous town such a place as Sydney will prove both a surprise and an inspiration. It is, says Dr. Wight, a recent visitor at this Australian metropolis, " a beautiful city of about three hundred thousand inhabitants, including the suburbs. Its harbor, opening out of the Pacific Ocean by a safe channel, two miles wide, with its deep fiords running far and wide into the high rocky shore, containing two hundred miles of na^ngable waters, with its villa-studded islands and peninsulas is, perhaps, the finest in all the world." The cit}' is modern in every way, and contains no suggestions of the convict settlement of Botany Bay in Avhich it had its beginnings a hundred 5'eai's ago. "A magnificent park," says Dr. Wight, "■botanical and zoological gardens, elegant theatei^s, imposing public buildings, costly churches, massive ware- houses, sumptuous residences, hospitals and institutions of learning, attractive suburbs, well- appointed clubs, and refined society make Sydney a charming place of sojourn for the weary traveler." Fashion has its home in the east, business at the west, and manufacturing in the southern part of the city, which has an area of two thousand and seven hundred acres, with scarcely- any part of the town a mile distant from the water. Sydney is the home egun l)y Hans Aniel, the first architect of the Cathe(hal. "It is as delicate and beautiful as a piece of rare Mechlin lace," said Napoleon ; " It should 1x3 preserved under a glass case," said another great soldier, Charles the Fifth. In the extensive Museum, once an old monastery, the finest works of the Flemish School are shown ; the home of Rubens, Antwerp is brilliant with his canvases. In the beautiful Gothic Church of St. Jacques, beside many high-born lords and ladies, his famil}' lies buried under a splendid altar. In the splendid Place de Meir, the finest street in Antwerp, hard by the Royal Palace, rises the richly decoi-ated house of Rubens, the original design made by the great painter himself. Here Rubens died in 1640, but unfortunately the house has been too much restored. To see Antwerp from all sides, after the ascent of the Cathedral Towei', where from the top of the six hundred and twenty-two steps in clear weather, the spires of Malines and Bruges and Ghent can be seen glistening, it is well to view the city from the Scheldt along which extend the handsome and busy quays which Napoleon the Great constructed in 1802. From here, the spires and the gabled roofs of the city with its foreground forest of masts, look extremely picturesque, although the "march of improvement" is sweeping away some of its characteristic attractions. Near the great docks, which cost Napoleon thirteen million francs, a clatter and chatter of all kinds of tongues can be heaid ; bronzed sailors from all over the globe pass and i-epass in the neighborhood of one of the " finest harbors in the world.' In 1878 nearly five thousand ships entered the harbor with a tonnage of over two million. Steamships ply to England and New York ; black silks and velvets, lace and carpets are sent abroad from her looms, and in i-eturn her trade in hides is very extensive. Down by the docks, Antwei-p's wealthy past, her downfall under the Spanish power and her later desolation in the memorable siege of 1833 — all seem forgotten in this tide of returning prosperity which did not begin until 1863, when she again obtained from Holland her maritime rights on the Scheldt. To-day the lines of the old Flemish monk seem about to come true again : " Brussels rejoices in noble men, Antwerp in money:" and those who have loved and visited this quaint old Flemish city cannot but rejoice in her growing prosperity. BUCHAREST. PICTURESQUE as to location and surrounding, laid in a hollow on the River Dimbovetza, a tributary of the Danube, green with a profusion of foliage and gleaming with domes and minarets stands Bucharest or Bukuresci, " City of Joy." It is the capital of Roumania, occu- pies an area of over twenty square miles and is the home of more than two hundred and fifty thou- sand inhabitants. Its sti-eets are irregular and unpaved, caf^s and coffee-gardens abound, droshkys in summer and sledges in winter are the chief methods of city travel, though a horse railroad has recently been laid by an English company. The city is lighted with gas. the manufacturing industries are slight, but the foreign merchants of the town do a considerable business. The city boasts of a fine theater and academy, but the other public buildings are of small account. Bucharest is the residence of the prince and the seat of a bishop, but the palace is an almost insignificant building and few of the churches are notable. Society is exclusive and clannish, the different nationalities drawing sharp social lines. The population is made up of Boyai-s, Tran- sylvanians, Russians, Bulgarians. Armenians, Gypsies and Jews with the foreign merchants — Germans, Greeks, Frenchmen and Swiss. The Boyars are the aristocratic and dominant " caste." MILWAUKEE. THE first thing about Wisconsin's greatest city — Milwaukee — to attract the attention of the visiting stranger is that which has won for it its most popular sobriquet of " The Cream City '' — alias " The Blonde Beauty of the Lakes," to employ the felicitous phraseology of one of her ambitious and jjoetic paragraphers — namely, the prevalence of cream-colored biick in both residences and business blocks. This common use of an uncommon material recommends itself to the artistic ej-e, not only because it is the mark of a very real individuality — of itself a desirable thing — but because it also lends an aspect of inexpressible cheerfulness, and is an element of a truly beautiful contrast in tlie summer. \\]\vn the abundant green of the lawns and the foliage of the shade trees in the streets, parks and gardens throw it into a sunny relief. The dockage rendered necessary by ^Milwaukee's lake trade is partly furnished by the crescent- shaped shore of Milwaukee Bay, and partly by the three rivers which split up the city into sections — the Milwaukee, Menomonee and Kinnickinnic. If a city which has several lively business nuclei can be said to have a business center at all it would probably be located in what is generally known as the "West Side " at the lower end of Grand Avenue, a street whose extension toward the suburbs is the great winter drive, the Brighton Koad of Milwaukee. The glory of the East Side, the residence district par i'rcellence, is Prosjiect Avenue, a noble roadway running along a line of bluffs that overlook tlie waters of the lake. The bulk of the manufacturing is done on the " South Side," and liere in close proximity to their work most of the laborers live. Their neat villages of cottage homes are not the least attractive of the city's sights. Tliese people are mostly Germans as are also very many of the most influential men of affairs. In fact, Milwaukee comes very near being a German city. In 188.5, according to the State Census, it had a population of one hundred and fifty-eight thousand. Of these over forty-eight thousand were native-born Germans, and almost as many more were of German descent. Tims what may fairly be classed as the German element was nearly two thirds the whole. It certiiinly speaks well for the character of the Germans as citizens that they have built and maintained so fair and pros- perous a city. Milwaukee is, according to the latest statistics, the most orderly city in the United States: it is also thirteenth in population, tenth in manufactures and first in the average cost of its dwellings and in the proportion of them owned by their occupants — a city of homes, therefore, in a more vital sense than any that has the traditional reputation of it. This is the place of which Henry George, the labor agitator, frankly admitted that a careful search had failed to reveal any poverty, and with which a somewhat fastidious Eastern author was so favorably impressed on a recent visit as to say: ''Tlie general impression of Milwaukee is that it is a city of much wealth and a great deal of comfoit, with a settled, almost conservative, feeling like an Eastern city and a a charming, cultivated social life with the grace and beauty that ai"e common to American society' anywhere." Brewing is at once the greatest and most conspicuous Milwaukee industry, its product for 1889 being almost ten and a half million doUai-s. A single brewery here, the largest in the world, has a capacity of eight hundred thousand barrels a year ; 1,537,500 kegs and fourteen million bottles — the corks alone cost seventy-eight thousand dollai-s — was its actual output for 1889. This necessitated the consumption of se\en hundred and ninety-four thousand pounds of hops, one million, two hundred thousand bushels of mait, 2,029,300 pounds of rice and 24,735 tons of coal ; and, during the same period, its huge refrigerating machines produce the equivalent of two hundred and ninety-two million pounds of ice. The buildings cover ten acres and have a total floor space of twenty-seven acres. It is well worth a trip to Milwaukee just to see the wondeiful - labor-saving appliances and perfect order of this monster brewer)-. Packing is next in importance to brewing. Ten million dollars' wortli of packed meats were sold in 1889, of which eight million dollars represented pork. The largest pork-packing establish- ment in the world is located in Milwaukee. Among other colossal single establishments should be mentioned the largest mill-machinery factory and the largest vinegar works in the world. The iron and flour mills, machine shops, tanneries, and clothing and wooden ware factories aveiage ' about five million dollars each per year. These several items plus those of packing and brewing 154 ^■■^'^, PICTFK KSQUE MILWAUKEE. 156 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. equal ovei* fifty million dollars more than half the entire manufactured product. In the matter of flour there was an increase of 313,011 barrels from 1886 to 1889, and therebj- Milwaukee has stepped into the place of St. Louis as the second flour city in the country. The accession of one liundred and ten thousand people to the population and of forty-five mil- lion dollars to the value of real estate between 1880 and 1889 is sufficient to indicate the excep- tional prosperity of the last decade, while the seven million dollars of new buildings, ten million dollars of real estate sales, ninety-four million dollars of jobbing, one hundred million dollars of manufactures, two hundred and fifty-four million dollars of bank clearances for 1890, exhibit the prosperity of a past so close to the present fis to be in effect an instantaneous record. Milwaukee is advancing along every possible line. Like the drummer boy in Napoleon's army she has never learned to beat a retreat. VIEW OF AiEXANDlUA. ALEXANDRIA. OUT of the mellowest of sunsets, wrote Mark Twain, telling of his oriental sight-seeing, rose the domes and minarets of Alexandria — a beautiful city and an Egyptian one, but too nuicli like a European city to be novel. And it is modern — for Egypt — for it only dates back lo the days of Alexander the Great, three hundred years before Christ. The modern city stands on a peninsula and is neither striking in appearance nor attractive in its surroundings. The Turkish quarter is filthy and meanly-built, with irregular and narrow streets ; the French quarter is much like a European city, with liandsome streets and squares and excellent shops. Tlie public buildings and offices are on the Great Square and among the principal build- ings are the palace of the pasha, the naval arsenal, the naval and military hospitals, custom house, bourse, theaters, mosques, churches and convents. The population has grown during the present century from six thousand to over two hundred and fifty thousand, but in the old days of its Greek supremacy Alexandria had a population of over six hundred thousand. BELFAST UAI'II)LV-(ili()\VL\(i iiiod- •ity, whoso jjopulation of 208,122 shows all iiniease of over one huiidied and twenty-five thousand inlial)itants since 1«41, Hel- fiust owes its deveh>pnient and growth to a great extent to its extensive linen trade. It is tlie great depot' for the North of Irehmd, and is also the chief seat of manufactures of cotton and linen. The growth and trade in the flax of Ireland in comparison to the size of the country is only rivalleeoples, especially when wedded with the exuberance and elation which prosperity and prideful consciousness in surrounding always entail. Intersecting the city at right angles are two magnificent thoroughfares, the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a perfectly straight northeast and southwest street : and Strada Macqueda, running from the northwest to the southeast in a straight line. The northeast terminal of the Corso touches the splendid bay ; and at the intersection of the two, the business, social and geographic center of the city, is a spacious octagonal, circus-shaped space known as the Quattro Cantoni. The fa9ade of this comprises a magnificent series of piazzas adorned with massive colonnades and superb statues. Noble gates stand at the four terminals of the Corso and the Strada INIacqueda, as well as those of many other important thoroughfares within the four very nearly equal quarters thus formed, from any portion of which divisions the main arteries of the city are easily reached. " So, mountains encircle and protect in the rear ; a vast and fruitful valley of bloom and perfume stretches from the city's gates : then the bright and beautiful city descends gently to a 158 A tilUL OF I'ALl.KMc GREAT CITIKS OF Till.: WORLD. 15U noble hiul)or side ; and, as it' lo perfect the loveliness of the entire scene, art in the splenilid Marina — the most gigantic and massive sea-drive and promenade possessed by any European city — to the right, and nature in the precipitous cliffs called Monte Pellegrino, to the left, join in forming at once the most beautiful and glorious harbor entrance to be found on any Euro{)ean shores." '•The architecture as well as the dialect of Sicily is a mixture of Greek, Arabic, Norman and Spanish. Nowhere else is this more noticeable than in Palermo, whose streets disclose most curi- ous composite of structures, though the effect is ahvavs extremely bright and interesting, if never artistically wholly satisfying. " AVhile the shops and caf^s are very l)eautiful. the street fa(;ades above present a grotesque commingling of sunken galleries like cloisters, colonnaded fronts of the most classic severity, and projecting balconies as graceful and delicate as may anywhere be found in Southern Spain. At all hours of the day the streets, which for the most part are exceedingly narrow, swarm with priests, officei-s, nobles and picturesque mountaineers, with every manner of the lowly city folk of the south ; while carpenters, tailors, coopei's, cobblers, locksmiths and the various petty artisans, \n\- concerned for the comfort of pedestrians, pursue their several vocations with delightful conscious importance entirely outside their shop-doors, gossiping, whistling and singing, adding much to the picturesque confusion of the thoroughfares. " Of the hundreds of religious edifices of great age and exceeding intei-est in and about Palermo, the stranger will linger longest at the church and monastery of Santo Spirito, famous a-s the scene of the sad tragedy of the Sicilian Vespers, on Marcli 30, 1282 ; the huge convent of San Martino and cathedial of Monreale, built by William the Second to outrival the greatest religious edifices of northern Europe ; the Royal Chapel, with its marvellous mosaics, finished in 1182 ; the interesting Saracenic relics of La Cuba and La Zisa ; and the magnificent cathedral (II Duomo) with its mighty sarcophagi where repose the ashes of the royal Normans, King Roger the First, his daughter Constantia. and Emperor Frederick the Second." KANSAS CITY. IN 1880, when the last national census was taken. Kansas City had fifty-five thousand inhabi tants and was thus practically on a par with Lowell, Worcester and Cambridge, Massachusetts, and Troy and Syracuse, New York. In 1887 its population was one hundred and seventy- five thousand : to-day it has at least two hundred thousand inhabitants and has earned a right to be chissed as one of the " Great Cities of the World." For the fifty years l)etween 1830 and 1880 there was an average yearly addition to its numbers of one thousand, one hundred ; foi the seven yeai-s between 1880 and 1887, khe average was seventeen thousand ; that is, a year of thb last period was more than equal to fifteen years of the first, and three of the last to almost the whole of the fii-st. At the close of these same periods the property valuation was thirteen million doUai-s and fifty-three million dollars respectively, so that in this particular one year of the, ne\'' was worth twenty-one years of the old. The causes of the comparative sluggishness of its first half century are the same which havt held back many other southern cities, namely, slavery and the conservatism of a farming popu- lation. The causes of its sudden advance are those that have boomed the other new cities of the West but which are only just beginning to reach the South with electric power — the building of i-ailways and the development of agricultural and mineral resources. Kansas City is situated in the State of Missouri at the junction of the Kansas and Missouri Rivers, just where the Missouri by turning abruptly eastward ceases to be the western l>oundary IGO GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. line of the State. It is the national commercial metropolis of a large and rich country embracing southwestern Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Colorado, New Mexico, Indian Territory, northern Arkansas and northern Texas. Fifteen railway lines including many thousand miles of track (of which 4515 miles were laid in a single year, 1887) connect it with these and other States. The flats bordering the rivers are occupied by manufactories, stock-yards and the railway terminals. Back of these flats rise a series of ridges and these are nearly covered already with solidly built, handsome houses and business blocks with others in process of erection, it being almost impossible to build fast enough to house newcomei's. Cable cars connect them with tlie busy world of the flats below. Kansas City, across the river in Kansas, made up of the towns of Wyandotte, Armourdale, Armstrong and Riverview and containing over forty thousand inhabitants, is more level and therefore more desirable for manufactories and stockyards. It is connected with Kansas City, Missouri, by an unique elevated railway. A bridge 1387 feet long, resting on seven piers, also crosses the Missouri at this point. Kansas City makes one fourth of all the farming tools used in the United States and is easily the first city in the country in this respect ; fifteen million dollars' worth was its product for 1887. It is an important coal and grain market, the second live-stock market in the country and so the first west of Chicago showing receipts, for 1887, of six hundred and seventy thousand cattle, two million, five hundred thousand hogs and two hundred and ten thousand sheep, representing an aggre- gate value of fifty-one million dollars. It is the fii-st beef and the second pork packing city in the world. In 1887, one packing-liouse alone slaughtered 195,993 cattle and 1,907,164 hogs. Kansas City has no parks and needs them lamentablj'. She has as yet paid very little atten- tion to learning or the fine arts. It was not to be expected. She is a new city with as many of the merits and as few of the defects of newness as any western city has had. Business is every- thing at present; culture must bide its time. But when Kansas City " once does take hold of cul- ture in dead earnest, she will make it hum." LOUISVILLE. THE site of the first settlement of Louisville is now no more. Corn Island, on which General Geoige Rogers Clark landed a little band of colonists in 1778, was for many years a favorite resort for barbecues, picnics, barn-dances, camp- meetings and fish-parties, but the Ohio has swept it down stream bit by bit until New Orleans owns more of it than Louisville, all that is left to the latter being its rocky bottom. The Eastern colonies were in the midst of their war for independence in that year of 1778. The contagion of their love of liberty had traveled even into the wildernesses of the then Far West. Here as there it was the dominating passion, and so as a tribute of gratitude to France who was helping in the fight, the new trading-post was named Louisville from the reigning king, Louis the Sixteenth. These early settlers were backwoodsmen — fearless hunters and trappers and Indian fighters like their prototype, Daniel Boone. They were model pioneers. Representatives of ancient and hon- orable Virginian families joined them later, and it is to this infusion without doubt, that the city is indebted for that "hereditary flavor of manners and fine living"' which has since distinguished it. Louisville has always been commercial, but it has lately awakened to a new life in this respect. The principal causes of this commercial renaissance are the working of the neglected coal and iron mines and the development of the agricultural resources of Kentucky as well as the building of GREAT CITIES OF THE WOULD. IGl new liiilwii}^. How great and how recent the change has been is indicated Ijy tlie fact that the year 1887 showed an increase in trade and manufactures of from twenty to fifty per cent, over 18H(j, seventy-three new manufacturing concerns being established during that time, with a capital of ¥1,290,500. For tlie same year bank clearings were fifty million dollars more, and bituminous coal receipts 747,546 tons more than in 1886. Louisville is the largest tobacco market in the world, whether bulk or variety be taken as the basis of comparison. Receipts and sales for 1887 were twice as much as thrr>:Rn- eral system of education. The citadel encompasses the best portion of the city's public buildings, together with the palace of the Shah. From it to the outer walls run four principal thoroughfares. Among the city's notable buildings are the mosque of the King and the mosque of the King's mother — the Masgid-i-Shan and the Masjid-i-Madar-i-Shah — each with picturesque and handsome enameled fronts. The King's college stands in the middle of a gas-lighted square, the T8p Maidan, and has some two hundred and fifty students, with European professors and courses of study in mathematics, engineering, military tactics, music, telegraphy, painting, Arabic, English, French and Russian. The noblest of Persian mountains — Demavend — gives picturesqueness and importance to Persia's otherwise uninteresting capital in which little is made, bought or sold that would seem to give the city any prominence apart from its political character as the residence of the Persian court. The environs of the city are striking and picturesque, and are the resort or the homes of the few European inhabitants of the capital during Persia's heated term. These European residents are increasing as the capital of the old Persian autocracy grows more progressive and modern. There is also an increasing number of Armenian merchants and wage-earnei-s in this old home of myster}' and magic. 162 NOTTINGHAM. CROWNING the summit of a precipitous rock higli above the level of the meadows of the River Leen stands the ])icturesque castle of Nottingham. Here it guards the busy town that creeps up the sandstone rock-slopes at its feet. A fort in the time of the Danes, a ciistle in the days of William the Conqueror, from its sally-port frequent forays were made to re- press the bold outlaws who roamed in Nottinghamshire and made Sherwood Forest their home. Here, in 1330, was Mortimer, the guilty favorite of Queen Isabelle, surprised by her enraged hus- band, Edward the Third ; here Owen Glendower languished in imprisonment ; here Charles the First in 1642 unfurled his royal standard and summoned his loyal followers. But the next year the grim Parliament seized it, and after being cared for by Colonel Hutchinson, during the Com- monwealth, its old walls were demolished. But the Duke of Newcastle in 1674 began to rebuild it according to his own "forme and modell." Its new walls sheltered Princess Anne and Lady Churchill as they concerted measures to restore William of Orange. In the beginning of this century the distress of the -poor and their hatred of the newly introduced machinery culminated in the Luddite riots, where the stocking-makers destroyed over one thousand of the stocking- frames in order to force their masters to improve their miserable condition. In these riots the castle was again somewhat injured, and in 1831 it suffered still more. An armed mob, furious at the Duke of Newcastle's opposition to the Reform Bill, stormed the heights and burned down most of the historic edifice. To-day it has passed out of the hands of the Dukes into the hands of the people ; bought by the Corporation of Nottingham, restored in palatial Renaissance style, its mass crowning the hill, it towers to-day as the Midland Counties Art Museum, where the artisan can learn the secrets of his trade. Its history is tlie history of the town that nestles at its feet ; first, rapine and bloodshed, thens the strong hand of power and kingly rule, then the quiet and peaceful pursuits of the arts and manufactures. To-day in the vast hosiery works of I. R. Moiley & Co., six thousand working men and women are busily employed tending the stocking-frames their grandfathers sought to destroy. In the sixteenth century the hand-knitting of stockings began; who could foresee its wonderful growth aided b}- machinery ? And the machine-made lace, begun scarcely a century ago when the point-net machine was invented, vies with, if it does not rival, the stocking trade. These trades, formerly carried on in the workmen's houses on a small scale, now occupy thousands in the large factories : the Notting- ham Manufacturing Company, turning out lace curtains and piece lace as well as hosier}-, employ almost as many hands as Morley, and the great depot for the sale of lace goods is Thomas Adams »& Co. Silk, worsted and cotton are spun as well, wire, pins and" brass goods are made, and the thirsty weavers of Nottinghamshire can wash the dust out of their throats with draughts of justly celebrated home-brewed ale. At their annual Goose Fair, the largest market-place in England, five and one half acres in extent, is thronged with a crowd of eager buyers and sellers ; pretty girls lean out from the projecting second stories of the lofty houses somewhat in the style of Chester, for the houses . project over the pavement and form an arcade supported by pillars, encircling the market-place which even in Henry the Eighth's time was called " the fairest without exception in all England." Though the town in the older part is indifferently built, the streets narrow and the brick houses huddled together, the effect is picturesque, and some of the public buildings are imposing. The University College, with library, museum and laboratories, the Church of St. Mary's of Fif- teenth Century Gothic and the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Pugin's architecture are all imposing. Only eight miles distant lies the Newstead Abbey, the home of the unfortunate Byron. When the poet's body was brought back from Greece, the Corporation of Nottingham and the nobilitj' and gentry of the town received the body and attended it to its simple place of burial, the churchyard of Hucknall Torkard, half-way between Nottingham and Newstead. There under a simple marble slab marked but with title, date and age rest the remains of the poet. 163 VIEW OK MONTEVUJEO, MONTEVIDEO. MONTEVIDEO," says Mr. Ford, a visitor to this South American city in 1890, " is neither quaint like Bahia nor picturesque like Rio, but it is modern and handsome. The city is seen to excellent advantage from the harbor; the cathedral, churches and public buildings standing on high ground along the crest of the peninsula, and the warehouses and shops receding tier by tier to the sea-walls of the water-front. This favorable impression is incresised when the customs line has been passed, and the traveler is fairly in the town. The streets are wide, well- paved, amply lighted and compactly puilt up. The architecture is modern and massive. Granite and Italian marbles are used in the handsome building fronts. Portuguese tiles are seen only in the oldest quarters of the town. Plaster fronts, so common in Brazil, are replaced with fine build- ing stone, much of which is (luarried in the Uruguay Hills. The streets are laid out with as much regularity as those of the upper portions of New York. The leading thoroughfare, known as the Julio, and recording a date of patriotic memory, is as much finer than the Ouvidor of Rio as Broadway is more impressive than William Street, New York. It leads through three plazas or squares. On the first of these stands the cathedral, a massive building with two towers and impressive architectural effects. On another side is the showy Uruguay club house, with statuary to match tliat of the cathedral. Close at hand is the chief opera house and theater of the town, and the handsomest and most tasteful building which I have seen on the Atlantic coast of South America. A few blocks farther on is a plaza, surrounded on four sides by Government and other buildings, with continuous lines of colonnades and arcades — a unique and striking effect. The trees in these squares are all young, and time will be re- quired for obtaining from them shade and for freshness of color in contrast with the marble and granite of the impressive facades. A third plaza with a graceful column surrounded with a statue of Liberty is in the heart of the city. All the way from the cathedral the Julio is lined with hand- some shops, in which European goods are attractively displayed. '• Montevideo is as modern in its manner of life as in its architectural aspects. An atmosphere of healthful bustle and activity pervades its streets. There are street-cars trundling in every thor- oughfare, the musical horns of the conductor being heard long past midnight and in the earliest hours of the movninor. Handsome carriaores and cabs are in the streets. The wide sidewalks are thronged with a busy, energetic and thrifty population. 164- There is a wide-awake and prosperous air GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. 165 about the town that reniiiuled me strongl}- of Boston, to which it bears a marked resemblance in topographical features and compactness of construction. But Montevideo is European rather than American in its aspects and customs. It is a modern Spanish town, with glimpses of Italian archi- tecture and refinement of taste, and with tlie commercial bustle and movement of Bremen or Ham- burg. The banking quarter is as solid and enduring as the financial system of the country on the basis of gold. The custom-house is an institution conducted on modern principles and with a business intelligence that is lacking in Brazil. There is no dawdling in street or in shop. Men have work to do, and they do not waste time over it. The city belongs to the last decade of the nineteenth century, and not midway in the eighteenth, like many of the Brazilian towns." PRAGUE. ALEXANDER HUMBOLDT, most eminent of "globe trotters," is often quoted as having called Prague the most beautiful inland city he had ever seen. If the quotation be not authentic it is certainly near the truth. Very few cities, whether inland or sea-girt, are worthy even to be compared with Prague for beauty. Its charm is half natural, half architectural ; and the two factors so harmonize and enhance each other that it seems as though Nature had worked with a prophetic eye upon the artist, and the artist always with a grateful care for her. On both sides of the wide and wooded Moldau, lies this ancient, historic, jiicturesque town; just where the stream makes a right-angled turn. Snugly nestled in this elbow lie the Alt and Neu Stadt, once wall-divided, now contiguous, but both hoary with antiquity and memories of the past. On the liigh hill of the Wissehrad in 874 was built Prague's first Cliristian church — the second in all Bohemia. On the left precipitous bank of the Moldau, a tangled mass of fortifications, palaces, churches, with the effective, but unfinished, mass of the great cathedral towering over all, stands the royal hurg. From this point, the Hradschin, the crown and pinnacle of Prague, the view is magnificent. The palace-dotted hillside is in the foreground ; in the middle distance rises the city proper ; towei-s, spires, domes and turrets of every shape and size, with the river meandering between ; the wooded hills of Bohemia, sculptured into most enchanting outlines ; form a soft, harmonious back- ground. The city itself is full of varied architecture ; Romanesque in part, Gothic still more ; incongru- ous, it may be, from a severe architectui-al standpoint, but delightfully Bohemian, nevertheless — a Paradise for the water-color artist and a veritable " bonanza " for the young woman with a sketch-book. Color runs rampant everywhere. In the Thein-Kirche curious little sidewise spires sprout out of the two main spires, which are balanced in a delightfully insecure way over a great arcaded mass. In this wild Bohemian country of Ziska, of John Huss, of Jerome of Prague, where Wallen- stein fought and Frederick the Great bombarded, where the earliest stronghold of Protestanism is to-day the most Catholic of Catholic cities, counting only three thousand Protestants among its two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, every step is interesting historically as well as artisti- cally. But the tourist, if he be mortal, is forced to take his steps by proxy in a cab, for Prague's dis- tances, like her lions, are immense. "With a good Jehu, the Powder Tower, the relic of the Alt- stadt wall ; the Rathhaus with its curious sixteenth century clock, near by the Grosser Ring Square where the great religious struggles took place and countless heretics were burned at the stake ; the Carlsbriicke, named after Charles the Fourth who founded the famous University of Prague in the fourteenth century, may all be visited. The tower-capped end of the bridge facing the Altstadt is most picturesque. 166 GREAT CITIES OF THE WORLD. From this bridge the Emperor Wenzel caused the father-confessor of his wife, St. John Nepomuk, the great saint of Bohemia, to be cast into the river because he refused to betray the secrets of the confessional. Many days and nights the body of this holy man floated on the sur- face of the pitying Moldau, with five bright stars, as token of his innocence, shining above it. To-day he is sculptured, carved, painted and illuminated in every corner of Prague. Another pilgrimage should be made to the Cathedral completed by Peter Arler or Parler in 1385. Its splendid tower, five hundred and twenty feet high, was reduced by fire to a little over three hundred feet. " It is not a church of any ordinary pattern, but a great octagon, rather more than twenty-five meters in diameter, and vaulted in a clear sweep, and in the most beautiful star- like design, to almost exactly the same height above the floor." THE GANGES, AT BENARES. BENARES. WHEN Babylon," so says Mr. Sherring, "was struggling with Nineveh for supremacy, when Tyre was planting her colonies, when Athens was growing in strength, befoie Rome had become known, or Greece liad contended with Persia, pr Cyrus had added luster to the Persian monarchy, or Nebuchadnezzar had captured Jerusalem, Benares had already risen to great- ness, if not to glory." One of the most ancient of the great cities of the world, Benares is to-day the religious center of the Hindoo religion and has been from time immemorial a "holy city." Situated on a broad bend of the Ganges in the form of an amphitheater, and extending three miles in one direction and one in another, thickly studded with domes and minarets, the bank of the river lined with stone embankments and highly ornamented landing places, with shrines and temples, Benares is at once the most picturesque and interesting city of India. Besides its religious importance it is a wealthy and growing trade center, and the residence of many English merchants, oflicials and missionaries. IN THK GAKUKNS OK LILLE. LILLE. THE ancient capital of Flanders, once known as the historic city of Lisle, is to-daj- the capital of the French province of Nord. It is the chief fortress of the north of France, is ad- mirably situated and defended, and is an excellent type of a modern fortified city. Lille' is pre-eminently a manufacturing and commercial town : its principal industry is flax-spinning, thirty-five mills with one hundred and ninety thousand spindles giving employment to four- teen thousand persons. Eighty factories manufacture damasks, tickings and the usual staples of the linen trade, and there are dye-works, bleacheries, and establishments for the manufacture of factory engines and machinery. The broad boulevards and handsome squares in the new part of the city contrast pleasantly with the dingy and somber old town. The new streets are bordered by substantial brick houses, and among the twenty public squares the Crrande Plare is of almost noble extent. Arches, gJites, bridges, public buildings, churches, schools, hospitals, museums and private lesidences give an air of prosperity and architectural beauty to this old Flemish city. The city is entered by seven gates and still retains many of its old jticturesque featui-es and ele- ments. It is fortified at its northwestern side, possessing a strong citadel witli l)airacks and magazines. The town hall, public library, museum and picture gallery are its most notable buildings. 167 IN Til!-. IIAUnoi: riK nOTTKUKAM. ROTTERDAM. IT is a singular thing," says lla- Italian traveU'i- De Amicis. •• that the great cities of Holland, although Ijuilt upon a shifting soil and amid difficulties of everj- kind, have all g)eat regu- larity of form. Amsterdam is a semicircle, The Hague square, Rotterdam an equilateral triangle. The base of the triangle is an immense dyke, which defends the city fiom the Meuse, and is called the Boompjes, signifying in Dutch small trees, from a row of elms, now very tall, that were planted when it was first constructed. Another great dyke foims a second bulwark against the river, which divides the city into two almost equal parts, from the middle of the left side to the opposite angle. That part of Hotterdam which is comprised between the two dykes is all canals, islands and bridges, and is the new city : that which extends beyond the second dyke is the old city. Two great canals extend along the other two sides of the town to the apex, where they meet and receive the watei"S of the river Rotte, which with the affix of Jam or dyke gives its name to the city." Rotterdam is, commercially, the first cit}' in Holland after Amsterdam. Its prosperity dates from the j'ear 1830, wheii, upon the separation of Holland and Belgium, Rotterdam seemed to secure everything that was lost to its rival, Antwerp. To-day the city is growing lapidly. It is the leading port of Holland. It does full}^ two thirds of the export trade of the nation, and has neaih' fift}- per cent, of the vessels and tonnage of Holland. Its leading industries are shii)- building, sugar-refining, and the production of lead, iron and copper wares, white lead, varnishes, tobacco and cigai-s, chocolate and confectionery. It has some notable buildings — the Boymans Museum, the town house, exchange, court house, the Delft Gate, seamen's home, hospital and thea- ters. Statues of Erasmus the scholar. Van Hogendorp the statesman and Tollens the poet, adorn the squares and market-place. The people are active, ambitious and progressive. Rotterdam, according to De Amicis, has a future more splendid than that of Amsterdam. She does not, he says, possess the wealth of the capital, but she is more industrious in increasirfg what she has ; she dares, risks, undertakes, like a young and adventurous city. At Rotterdam, he concludes, " fortunes are made ; at Amsterdam they are consolidated ; at The Hague they are spent." 168 PICTURESQUE HOLLAND. HAVANA. P' PICTURESQUE as seen from the sea, tame as viewed from its low background, the city of San Cristobal de la Havana, the capital of Cuba, is situated on the beautiful Bay of Havana, one of the finest natural harbors in the world, land-locked, deep and free from rock or bar. This harbor is capable of ac- commodating fully a thousand ships of the largest size, and deep enough to allow them to anchor close to the docks. The Morro and Punta castles, the citadel and the long line of fortifications that defend the entrance to the city, give the town ample protec- tion from the sea, while on the land side a deep fosse separates the fortifications from the arse- nal and the suburbs of Salud and Guadalupe, in which fully one half of the inhabitants of the city find homes. Most of its houses are of solid stone, flat-roofed and substantial. It has many impor- tant but few noteworthy build- ings. Of the score of churches in the city the most important is the cathedral built in 1724, and noted for its richly frescoed walls, its variegated marble floor and its costly altars. Within this cathedral for many years was the tomb of Columbus. Havana possesses also a university, a theological seminary, a military school and a school of art. The Tacon Theater accommodates fully three thousand people, the bull-ring and the cock-pit aie popular amusements, and the promenades, drives and public gardens are a notable feature in Havana life. It is a big, busy, noisy, malodorous and not always healthy town, with imperfect drainage and careless sanitation. Its commerce is large, and is chiefly with the United States, Great Britain, France and Germany. Steamers ply constantly between Havana and New York, New Orleans, Philadelphia and Baltimore, while the city is connected with the towns in the interior of the island by railroads. Havana's staple manufacturing industry — that of tobacco — gives the city over a hundred cigar factories of the highest class, and its exportation of sugar runs into hundreds of millions of pounds yearly. The Royal factory of La Honradez — one of the sights of the city — has a daily product of over two and a half million cigarettes. A large export trade is also carried on in sugar, molasses, bees-wax and honey. Trade is lively, taxes aie high, and life generally is on a correspondingly fast scale — the numerous cafds, restaurants, clubs and casinos testifying to the absence of a real home or domestic life among Havana's white resi- dents. The island metropolis is the chief commercial city of the West Indies, a pleasant winter resort for visitors from the colder North, and always interesting and picturesque to the student of man and his manners. 170 IN THK CATHEDRAL. XEWAKK FUOM TlIK PASSAIC. NEWARK. AS New York City marches steadily forward to Metropolitan immensity, so do its sister and suburban cities progress proportionately toward bigness. One of the most noticeable of these outlying cities of the American Metropolis is Newark, nine miles distant, the largest city in the State of New Jersey, and given by the census of 1890 a population of one hundred and eighty-two thousand — an increase of over one hundred and fifty thousand within fifty yeai-s, and of fully fifty thousand since the last census of 1880. Newark is pleasantly and favorably situated in an ele\ated plain on the right bank of the Passaic River, four miles from Newark Bay. It is regularly laid out, with broad and beautiful streets, many of them elm-shaded and lined with handsome buildings and private residences. Broad and Market Streets are the principal business thoroughfares — the one cutting the h^rt of the city north and south, the other east and west. Among the city's most important and imposing buildings are the Court House, the City Hall, the Custom House and Post-office and numerous beautiful churches. Among its business edifices one — that of a successful Life Insurance Com- pany — is said to be the finest business building in the State. The railway facilities of Newark are abundant, four great trunk lines making it an important station, but alike the situation and inclination of the town have given it an especial prominence as a manufacturing center. Even in 1870 it was known as the '* Birmingham of America," and in twenty years the growth of its industries has been proportionate to that of its population. Jewelry, carriages, paper, leather and beer are its chief manufactures, but pressing these closely are many other interests — celluloid goods, hat-making, boots and shoes, harness, trunk and saddlery-making : tools, tobacco, chemicals, clothing, machinery, iron and steel-manufacturing with sewing-machines, cotton, woollen and silk-thread factories swell the list of Newark's industries. " Newark's growth," says a recent observer of the city's progress, " has been of the solid and realistic variety : there has been nothing of the artificial about it. What she has, she has fairly won and is clearly entitled to.'' 171 MONTREAL. o= ^NE thousand miles from the ocean, the gateway to a great chain of river, lake and canal naviga- tion, crowning a series of terraces and over- looked 1)}' the great pile of trap-rock known as Mount Royal, the larg- est city of the Dominion of Canada, Montreal, has stood for three centuries and a half, steadily grow- ing, a power in coloniza- tion, in politics, in trade and in manufactures in the history of the sturdy northern neighbor of the United States. The modern city of Montreal occupies an area of nearly eight square miles. Its piin- cipal streets run parallel with the St. Lawience. Its ])ublic buildings and many of its private resi- dences are built of the gray limestone quarried from the Iio3-al Mount- ain on its noithern side. In the river below, the great Victoria Bridge, a triumph of modern engineering, spans the space between Nun's and St. Helen's Islands. It is a tubular iron bridge, measures nearly nine thousand, two hundred feet in length, and is supported on twenty-four piers of solid masonry so constructed as to successfully resist the rapid current of the river and the enormous pressure of the ice in spring-time. Above the mass of Montreal's crowding houses rise the towere, spires and domes of its churches and public buildings. Montreal is a city of churches. The Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter reproduces on a reduced scale the leading characteristics of St. Peter's at Rome, and forms a striking feature in any general view of the city. The Parish Church of Notre Dame accommodates ten thousand worshipers. The new city hall, a superb structure, the court house near by, Bonsecours Market in St. Paul Street, McGill College and its buildings in Sherbrookc Street, the Hotel Dieu, and the Gre}' Nun's Hosjiitals, are among the principal buildings of the city, which is also adorned with numerous statues and monuments. A city of ice and snow for a good portion of the year, its cold caniiot chill its advancing pi'os- perity. The commercial houses and the substantial harbor of Montreal testify to its wealth, its strength and its solidity, while such pleasure grounds as the lofty park on the summit of Mount Royal are proof at once of the picturesque situation and the general prosperity of this leading city in the great Dominion. 172 IN THK ST. LAWKENCK UAlUi>&. JIIK IlfU.SON lilVKli AT .IKKSKY' CITY. JERSEY CITY. TO be a "railroad town" is to be eminently prosaic. From all snob points tbe tourist in searcb of the picturesque incontinently flees, knowing it only as a good place to get away from. As such a place does the unthinking tourist regard Jersey City, New York City's depot, entrepot and overflow on the further side of the ])road and busy Hudson River. But all such hasty conclusions are often apt to be both rash and wrong, and he wlio only knows Jei'sey City as a railway center, unattractive because simply a place for departure or arrival, knows but little of the real life of this busy, bustling, ever-growing town. Incorporated in IS'IO as the City of Jersey and re-incorporated in 1838 under its present name, it is eligibly placed alike for traffic and sitely location on the mile-wide Hudson just where it entei-s the beautiful Bay of New York. Jei'sey City is now an aggregation of three distinct municipalities. It has l)een well laid out with wide and regular streets, four public squares, substantial business structures and public buildings and many handsome private residences. Its chief importance is, necessarily, its relation to New York City as a terminus for travel. At least three lines of ocean steamera, five trunk lines of railways, seven lesser railways Jind the Morris and Essex Canal center upon its river frontage and foster its industries. Of these latter the name is legion. Watch-making, glass-works, zinc, boiler, machine and locomotive works ; foundries, raili'oad repair and sujjply shops, sugar refineries, breweries, jjlaning mills and the thousand and one kindred or companion industries find a home in this busy city, and give daily occupation to the thousands of toilere who are daily increasing its usefulness and importance, and making it, if not the most picturesque, certainly one of the most practical and productive of all the great and growing cities of the American Union. 173 VENICE. P'LOAT on a placid sea a league away, \a,y a great city, with its towers and domes and steeples drowsing in a golden mist of sunset." Thus to Mark Twain, as to man}' another visitor to the beautiful city of the sea, came the first view of Venice. It is the placid sea that has made Venice, that has given it the halo of romance, art and song, and that for fully five hundred years kept it so potent a power in the history of the world. To-day Venice is but a remnant of her ancient glory. Her piei"s are deserted, her warehouses are empty, her merchant fleets are vanished, her armies and her naNdes are but memories. Her glory is departed, and with her crumbling grandeur of wharves and palaces about her she sits among her stagnant lagoons, forlorn and beggared, forgotten of the world. Laid in a shallow portion of the Adriatic the modern Venice stands oil one hundred and seventeen islands, sepa- rated by one hundred and fifty canals and united by three hundred and eighty bridges. Instead of streets its traffic passes along these ca- nals. " There is," says Mr. Stockton, "not a horse, a cab or a car- riage of any kind, in all the city. The peo- l)le go about in gon- dolas or other kinds of boats, or walk in the alleys, streets and squares which are found all over the city." Since 1880 " omnibus " steam- ere have been intro- duced on the Grand Canal, over which have also been thrown two nineteenth-century iron bridges — useful, but by no means jjicturesque. The Grand Canal winds its serpentine length of two miles through the city, with a railway station at one end and a hotel at the other. It is lined with buildings and palaces, some moldy and some magnificent, and almost midway in its coui-se it is crossed by the famous Rialto — a queer but historic bridge, higli in the middle and with a good many steps at either end. The Rialto is in the busiest portion of the city, for Venice in spite of its ancient flavor and its moldy life, is growing in industry and prosperity. Gold and silver work, velvet, silk and glass are its leading manufactures, while an extensive traffic is carried on in cotton, grain, oils, wine, fruits, drugs, fish, hides and leather. But the effect of the old Venice is more lasting than that of the new. " What a funny old city this Queen of the Adriatic is!" exclaimed Mark Twain. "Narrow streets, vast, gloomy marble palaces, black with the corroding damps of centuries, and all partly submerged : no dry land visible anywhere, and no sidewalks worth mentioning. In the glare of the day tliere is little poetry 174 A WATEK-VENDKU ON TUK HIVA. ON THE GRAND CANAL. 176 GREAT CITIES OF THE WOKLD. riiK (A nii'DKAi, oi- SI. mai;k. about Venice, but under the charitable moon her stained palaces are white again, their battered sculptures are hidden in shadows and the old city seems crowded once more with the grandeur that was hers five hundred yeai-s ago." The central and objective point of Venice is, of course, the square of St. Mark, at the mouth of the Grand Canal. Here is the pink and yellow palace of the Doges, a building that fills a large share of Venetian story ; here the historic Bridge of Siglis that links a palace to a prison and has seen so much of tragedy and tyranny ; here, too, are the Cathedral of St. Mark — the venerable relic of the ancient glory of Venice — and its beautiful tower or Campanile, rising high over every thing in this picturesque city of the sea. The visitor in this moldering but quaint old sea-town need never tire for sights and expedi- tions. "Ever so much more," says Mr. Stockton, "shall we do in Venice. We shall go in gondolas and see the old dock yards whei'e the ships of the Crusaders were fitted out ; we shall visit the Academy of Fine Arts, where we may study some of the finest works of tliat most celebrated of all Venetians, the painter Titian ; we shall take a steamboat to the Lido, an island out at sea where the citizens go to bathe and to breathe the sea air ; we shall go out upon the broad Giudecca, a wide channel between Venice and one of its suburbs ; we shall explore churches and palaces ; and, above all, we shall float by daylight and by moonlight, if there happens to be a moon, over the canals, under the bridges and between the tall and picturesque walls and palaces, which make Venice the strange and delightful city she is."