Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Columbia University Libraries https://archive.org/details/decoratingwithca00detr if “ DECORATING with CASEMENTS ‘2 eo A Book of Practical Suggestions for the Curtaining and Screening of Steel Casement Windows, pre- pared with the Assistance of Marshall Field and Co. Chicago, Illinois The J. L. Hudson Co. Detroit, Michigan W. and J. Sloane, Inc. New York, New York » ae Copyright, 1928, by The Detroit Steel Products Company 2250 East Grand Boulevard Detroit, Michigan sole manufacturers of Fenestra STEEL CASEMENT WINDOWS: =H Through the window of the present All my life must come to me! Freedom, happiness and love, and Natures beauty I shall see Only as they near my casement; Then my heart must bid them stay, For God's blessings always enter Through the window called Today. Care may cast a fleeting shadow On my friendly windowpane But I know that sunshine gathers Added splendor from the rain. So I find that each glad morning Life ts wonderful and gay, As it greets my eager spirit, Through the window called Today. —QO. LAWRENCE HAWTHORNE AVERY LIBRARY COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY DECOR Aw ale NeG J WITH ] Gy AGS EM be Navies f INDOWS have been essentials of design since the beginning of architecture. With them, the archi- tect fashions the character of his building; they are the features which give expression to the home. Accord- ingly as the windows are narrow, high, broad, or low, a house is prim, stately, hospitable, or cozy. The windows make the first impression on the passerby in the street and on the visitor beside the hearth. Each window frames a picture of the out-of-doors, set off by dainty, colorful curtains, alive with glowing sunshine, charming in a way that wall-hung pictures never fully equal. Small wonder, then, that today interior decoration depends less on pictures, which merely simulate reality, and more on windows, which capture for us the genuine colors of the world outside. Almost any window decorates to some extent. However, just as there is a difference between windows and other forms of ornamentation, so is there a differ- ence between steel casement windows and other types. With small sparkling panes set off by slim steel muntin- bars, steel casements pattern the light and color of the out-of-doors in jewel-like brilliance that wide, blank lights of glass, like imitation diamonds, can never attain. And because they give texture to the window opening— variety instead of monotony—steel casements blend attractively with colors and fabrics. Where ordinary Page one With the attractive pattern formed by their small oblong panes of glass and slender steel bars, Fenestra Casements en- hance the architectural beauty and coziness of homes of every possible size and lype. Their low cost makes them available for even the tiniest bungalow, their durabil- ity, weathertightness, perfection of design, craftsmanship, ornamental hardware, and ease of operation make them emi- nently worthy of the costliest mansion. At the left is an excellent example of the use of Fenestra Casements in Norman French architecture—the residence of Mr. William E. Vass, of Detroit, Michigan, designed and built by Ernest L. Brown. Below is the Colonial-type home of Mr. E. A. Donecker, Allentown, Pennsyl- yania. Architects, Ruhe and Lange; contractor and builder, O. C. Donecker. page two Fenestra Casements are available in so wide a range of stock sizes that the exact window arrangement called for by any architectural design can almost always be achieved without the expense or the delay of special manufacturing. The Spanish home at the right is the residence of Mr. Hallam Cooley, at Los Angeles, California, planned by Jones and Ward and built by William HM. A. Brandt. The omission of the vertical muntin-bars of the Fenestra Casements is in keeping with the best architectural traditions of old Spain. The splendid Long Island, New York, home at the bottom of the page is the residence of Mr. Charles W. Walker. Fenestra Casements helped the archi- lect, George R. Thompson, in carrying out the English architectural effect. page three RE BRET iio > DEE Gr OPRZAs sl Ne Gees len Elen Ce Aw On k \VilE oN eae S q es windows break up the effect of attractive curtains, steel casements help to carry it through. Painted in harmony with the room color-scheme, ornamented with rich bronze hardware in tasteful design, glazed with crystal-clear plate glass or with quaintly fashioned leaded panes, and, finally adorned with draperies as simple or elaborate as one’s taste suggests, steel casement windows add beauty far beyond their modest cost. Indeed, because they are little if any more expensive than ordinary windows, anyone can well afford to decorate with casements. And to a considerable degree, their decorative charm is due to the fact that curtains are applied, not to the window proper, but to the window- space as a whole. Instead of merely covering a given area of glass, one utilizes graceful, colorful curtains in combination with small sparkling glass lights to create a wall decoration that is beautiful, charming, and, above all, “different’’. — An attractive sun-room, illustrating how charmingly shades, glass curtains, and over- curtains can be used with Fenestra Casements. sn tong craeroonction, ay, ts “ay MTP SI EO . page four ° iB) 18-6; GO) IR ak AD Ibany (Ee MWY IE AR disk © (Oy aN FS) 1B) Ih 8 IN| AD fs! \ eS ee PART ONE S2 ee CURTAINING STEEL CASEMENTS TEEL casements accept almost any curtains or combination of curtains that one may desire, and their shimmering panes form a delightful background for dainty, colorful draperies that lend to every room the individual charm and chic of a Paris gown. You may have wanted always cool, plain colors at your windows— clear greens, soft blues, shadowy grays—yet hesitated to use them at old- style windows with their wide, blank glass areas. Such fabrics are altogether lovely when the bars of steel casements throw interesting shadows against the cloth. If you prefer the warmer colors—deep wine reds, subtle purples, the brown of autumn leaves—use them by all means. For steel casements make modernistic patterns of the sunlight that give light and life even to formal fabrics. Similarly, the sparkling panes, with their slender tracery of steel bars, blend to perfection with figured materials, whether in bright colors or delicate pastels. And if vertical stripes will provide the one motif that means a “just right’’ room you'll find them in utter harmony with oblong glass lights that are higher than they are wide. You may be tired of window shades. You can do away with them by using casement curtains which can be drawn over the entire window to shut out the light or pulled back to the sides to let it in. Conversely, if you like roller shades, keep them, for steel casement windows opening out offer no interference for them. At the same time, the soft colors or gay patterns in which shades can now be obtained harmonize with any decorative scheme. Such shades are made of glazed chintz, waterproof if desired. Their colors and patterns, as one might expect, are only on the inside surface—the side next to the glass is made plain so that the exterior of the house will have a uniform appearance. page five PO ee Pe ee ee if DECORATING WITH CASEMENTS » YY The Curtain Materials THE choice of curtain fabrics is almost limitless; one’s own good taste is the best guide in making a selection. For casement curtains (sometimes called glass curtains), a closely-woven material of medium weight, such as silk or mohair, should be used if they are to take the place of roller-shades in subduing the light. Either ecru or natural color is better than white, while gold-colored fabrics are very popular because they give an impres- sion of sunshine even on dull days. If you are employing roller-shades, lighter curtain materials are advisable, such as organdie, dotted Swiss, voile, scrim, pongee, or silk gauze. As casement curtains are even more visible from the outside than from the inside, because they are covered by the over-curtains, this fact should be remembered in choosing colors. For over-curtains, crewel embroideries, hand-blocked linens, cretonnes, printed linens, glazed chintzes, velvets, and damasks offer attractive Extra brightness and cheer are added to this sun- room by the pat- terned chintz shades, while the Fenestra Case- ments, with their slender steel bars, gwe texture to the window openings without obstruct- ing the sunlight. page six A living-room of delightful Colonial simplicity, to which the straight lines of the Fenestra Casements and their single, light-textured cur- tains contribute just the right degree of decoration. The curtains can, Uf desired, be drawn across the windows to tone down the light. page seven “NOPUIM BU0 SD ANOIO sopuI Ag ay} JD2I), SUIV]INI-1Id0 ay) Ajjpnpisipur paddy aio Surv} -INI-Japun pup sapoys “sayy ee page eight ; DPELC OLRZAUL IAN G eaWel tl He > CoA SEM ENTS \) SS Ee ee fabrics, either plain or figured. Bright tones—yellow, orange, rose and green—will give warmth and light to rooms that do not get the sun; softer colors—cool blues, greens and tans—belong in rooms that have ample sunlight. Use patterned fabrics for plain walls, and vice-versa; striped materials go well with floral wall paper. Always, it is well to bear in mind that heavy fabrics, because of their weight and color, are really suitable only for important rooms—the living- room, dining-room, or library. On the other hand, the glazed chintzes, linens and gay cretonnes “‘belong”’ in almost any room. The Cut and Hang of the Curtains CASEMENT curtains, used alone or with over-curtains, should hang four or five inches below the sill, and should, therefore, be cut to hang still lower, to allow for shrinkage when cleaned. Over-curtains usually reach to just below the sill or to the floor. There appears to be no set rule as to when curtains should be tied back and when they should hang free, but many people consider them prettier tied back, unless they are to be drawn across the opening. It is also largely a matter of taste whether the curtains should be tied to hang as straight as possible above and below the tie, or should be gathered up to hang as full as possible above it. The style of the room, the proportions of the windows, and the fullness of the curtains all have some bearing on this pot. No extra length is required for tying back, because tying simply gathers up one side of each curtain—the other side hangs at its regular length. Determining the proper fullness of curtains is a comparatively simple matter. The accepted rule is that the lighter the material, the greater its fullness should be. Soft, silky fabrics, therefore, should be cut for double fullness, whereas weightier ones, such as heavy damasks and velvets, need no more than fifty per cent fullness. This limited fullness is especially important when the heavy textiles are lined, as they generally are, to bring out the full beauty of their designs. Certain fabrics require interlining, also, to render them sufficiently opaque, when viewed against the light, to show their patterns to advantage. This is particularly true with high windows, such as studio or oriel windows. page nine Cozy and quaint are the ruffled curtains and valance of this sunny breakfast-room. The Fenestra Casement pat- terns the spring sunshine to enhance this charming effect. Below ts illustrated the formal lambrequin, with heavy over- curtains as applied to Fen- estra Casements. Note, too, that the little girl ts perfectly comfortable next to these weathertight steel windows despite the winter weather. In this comfort- able den, the cor- nice above the Fenestra Case- ment gives a mas- culine note of strength and restraint to the Cs decorative plan. page ten ene Tee PET ted an ty ee I DEEAGTORR Aaa NaG Well Hee GrA S Be MaE SN aan Sa eee Valances and When to Use Them PROPERLY speaking, a valance is a shallow hanging of cloth, but the name is sometimes mistakenly applied to the lambrequin, which is made of cloth backed with buckram or wood. Another device is the cornice, made of wood and painted or covered with curtain material. The three may be said to represent degrees of formality, with the cornice a compromise between the informality of the true valance and the stiff dignity of the lambrequin. If desired, cornices may be used in some rooms, and either valances or lambrequins in others. An ornamental wrought iron rod or a painted wooden pole for the over-curtains is a very acceptable and attractive unit of decoration, in place of valance, cornice, or lambrequin. Rooms that are correctly proportioned, with windows of the right size and shape, generally require some such device at the top. Such accessories are thoroughly practical with steel casements, for these windows open out, and do not interfere with the hangings. Where there is a fixed transom between the top of the sash and the top of the window itself, such a panel fully protects the valance, even though the window may be wide open. Valances, cornices and lam- brequins should be used only with care and forethought. Frequently, they change the proportions of a room or of a Another example of the use of a lambre- guin ina formal living-room. Here, how- ever, its dignity ts relieved by the foallged edge and the light-colored under-curtains which in- tensify the sunlight streaming through the Fenestra Casement onto milady’s desk. Heavy wood frames around the casements enhance the baronial air of the room. page eleven In the circle— Valances of the same material as the under-cur- lains reduce the effect of window height, yet admit wanted daylight. At the right—A room of graceful curves, in which Fenestra Case- ments help to create an air of true hospitality. page twelve Four attractive dining-rooms, all daylighled by Fenestra Casements, yet all different in window arrangement and curtaining. Al the left, for instance, are shades and light under-curtains, without over- curtains. Below, the under- curtains have been omitted. The absence of a valance helps to lend an effect of height. 1D) 18; OY 1 APE INE WY IB al (PAU sh 1B Ml 18) IN) AR ts 5 SESS SO a IE +p window by making it look higher, lower, wider, or narrower as desired; some very ridiculous effects result from using valances of the wrong cut or depth. By extending the valance well down over the glass, and at the same time using wide overdrapes, a window that is too large can be made to appear smaller. When the windows are narrow and the ceiling high, valances help to*detract from the extreme ceiling height and to make the windows look shorter and wider. If the room has a low ceiling, probably poles should be used, instead of valances, so that the room will look higher. In general, deep valances should be used with tall, narrow windows, and shallow ones with low windows. Straight valances add dignity, and are therefore, advisable for the important rooms; ruffled valances lend quaintness and an air of intimacy to bedrooms. In using a valance where you need not consider its effect on the proportions of room or windows, a good rule is to make the depth of it approximate- ly one-sixth the distance from the floor to the top of the window. A separate rod should be provided for the valance, which will mean a triple-rod set— one rod for the casement curtains, one for the overdrapes, and one for the valance. Fenestra Casements, set in wood frames, glazed with leaded glass of a pleasing pattern and draped with only the lightest of cur- tains, are as much a part of this living-room as the tim- bered ceiling. page thirteen “SUTD}INI-19I0 fO SUVIUW IYF hg guo ojur padnosG as Sovopuroy ows snof ay] *azou yupUrwop ay? WIOf PIO{WOI PUD SsaUjoo) page fourteen Here, narrow win- dows are made to look wider by using heavy wooden cur- tain poles which let the curtains hang at each side, rather than over the win- dows. The impres- sion of height is retained by not us- ing any valances. A group of Fenestra Case- ments set off by wood mullions, yet unified by being curtained as one window. Under-cur- tains may be drawn across the glass to shut out the sunlight. Al the left is a charming bay of Fenestra Casements, daintily curtained to meet the exacting requirements of intimacy and luxury in a lady's boudoir. page fifteen R DECORA TIN G Welt He. GAS EME Nels j QA The Curtain Rods Any of several ingenious types of rods—single, double or triple — that can be secured at your favorite department store or from an interior decorator, will.serve you very satisfactorily. They can be bought with or without traverses (the cord-and-pulley assembly by means of which the curtains can be drawn back and forth across the window). Rods and brackets range in style and price from plain brass to ornamental designs in wrought iron, with Italian gold or polychrome finishes. An interesting support for over-curtains is a pair of swinging brackets, similar to the old fire-place cranes of colonial days. These are strong without being clumsy in appearance, and permit the curtains to be swung back against the wall, entirely clear of the windows, to facilitate washing. At the same time, you will have the under-curtains to shut out excess light when drawn across the glass. The over-curtain rods should be placed high enough above the window so that the curtains will exclude light and should project far enough beyond the window at each side to permit the curtains to overlap the wall. The projection at either side also gives additional space for drawing the curtains entirely clear of the window, to get the full daylighting benefit of every square inch of glass. When wrought-iron or wood poles are used, separate brackets are used for the over-curtain and casement curtain rods. Otherwise, one may use brackets which embody sockets for the support of two or three brass rods. Roller shades are frequently placed on brackets attached to the screen-stops at the sides of the window. If your steel casements are surrounded by wood casings, the curtain- rod brackets and shade brackets can be fastened to the woodwork. How- ever, it is becoming more and more the practice among builders of the better class to omit the wood casing in connection with steel casements, and to carry the plaster of the wall right to the window itself. In brick veneer walls (brick applied to the outside of wood framing), in stucco-on-frame construction, and in all-frame walls, it is an easy matter to locate the wood uprights about two inches thick (known as “studs” or “two-by-fours”) which frame the window at each side. By screwing through the plaster, into these uprights, the brackets can be secured in place. page sixteen A living-room that is simple, yet chastely elegant in its appointments. The cur- tains hang straight, without valances, enhancing the effect of height created by the tall Fenestra Casements. Al the right is an exception- ally charming window en- semble—a Fenestra Case- ment with a semi-circular transom, with the over-cur- tains hung on a circular rod and gathered back. It is an ideal combination for a Spanish type of residence. In this sun-room, the gauzy curtains and val- ances are only a sugges- tion of curtains, and intensify, rather than di- minish, the warm cheer of the sunshine admitted by the Fenestra Case- ments. And atall times, regardless of the weather, these windows open as easily as for the dainty miss in the picture. Tenestra Casements can never warp nor stick. page seventeen ci DECORA TING SWLTHR CASE NEN Ts ; eae oi aaa een ASS ee Where the walls are of solid masonry (solid brick, brick-and-tile, tile- and-stucco, or solid stone) a wood block should be set into the masonry at each upper corner of the window when the wall is laid up. An even better idea is a “header’’ or beam about four inches thick and from four to eight inches wide, extending entirely across the top of the window opening, with each end projecting about six inches beyond the edge of the opening. Either type of wood insert is, of course, covered by plaster, giving the same appearance as the rest of the wall. Remembering that you have nearly an inch of plaster to penetrate before reaching the solid wood upright beneath, use screws not less than 114 inches—preferably 134 inches in length and thin enough, of course, to pass through the holes in the brackets. Screws shorter than 1/4 inches will simply mar the plaster, without forming a solid anchorage. If you have no drill with which to start holes in the plaster for the screws, tap the latter gently into place with a few blows of a hammer, and then start with a screw-driver. If you make a false start, dulling the point of a screw, throw it away and take a fresh one, for a dull screw will simply break the plaster without threading into it. = Each of these bright and airy kitchens illustrates an interesting style of cur- taining. The picture at the left, with one of the casements partly open, gives some idea of the extra ventilation which Fenestra Casements provide. page eighteen Py E-C OR ACLUN GG WeLTH CAS EMEN IS . 2 SE Se ee If the walls are of solid masonry, with no wood blocks or “‘headers’’ to form an anchorage for screws, curtain rods can be put up easily, without endangering the appearance of the plaster by using wall plugs, or ex- pansion bolts set into the wall. For a first-class job, a decorator or a good carpenter should be employed. However, wall plugs are not often needed. Most builders of the better class understand the use of wood blocks or “headers” in solid masonry to furnish anchorage for curtain rod brackets, and will put them in without extra charge while the house is being built. In buying a finished house, if you find that no such provision has been made, insist that the builder provide and place the wood wall plugs or expansion bolts for you. . The Fenestra Casements in this sun-room are fitted with wood-framed screens, hinged to swing in. They are inconspicuous and really form part of the window trim. The casement unit at each end of the large window is of the fixed type, and hence needs no screening. These screens are easily detached. page nineteen i DE @ @O ROASTING. Wel DoH VeeAgsS EME INGEsS y . ee PART TWO .o, ~o SCREENING STEEL CASEMENTS Ir you’VE lived in a home equipped with outside screens, you know how much more attractive the place looked in spring and fall than during the summer, when the screens were in place. The latter made the win- dows dull, ugly rectangles, whereas without them, the sparkling glass showed to full advantage, relieving the solid plainness of the walls. The inside screens used with Fenestra Steel Casements are invisible from the street, thereby permitting your home the full exterior beauty of its many-paned windows. They are almost invisible from the inside, because you look at them against the light. And by painting the screen frames to match the sills and other trim, you can make them a part of the interior decoration, as attractive as they are inconspicuous. Inside screens do not accumulate dirt nearly as rapidly as those outside, and the rain cannot wash grime off them, onto your clean windows. The comparatively small amount of dirt that does collect can be wiped off easily with a damp cloth whenever the windows are washed, which will help to keep the curtains fresh and dainty. And there is no premium for the advantages of inside screens. They are as easy to install as those on the outside, and once in place, they never need be taken down unless you prefer to do so, for they are protected from the corrosive effects of rain and snow. Yet, if you do want to remove them, the task is both easy and safe. Installing Inside Screens NaturRALLy, the best way of securing a good installation of inside screens is to include them in the plans of the house. There is a choice of six general types of inside screens—fixed, hori- zontally-sliding, side-hinged, vertically-sliding, top-hung, and roll-up. page twenty a DeEZC1OERSAS LelaeNeG, S———————————— ae a FN Walia tiger eAq Sure Mer aNadias How preparation is made for screens in installing Fenestra Casements. The photograph at the left shows a casement set in a masonry wall with wood blocks at intervals, to which the plaster-grounds and screen- stops can be firmly attached. Above is the completed instal- lation, with screen-stops at the jambs, ready for the attach- ment of the inside screens. page twenty-one DECOR A{ITLN Gy WET. CATs EME Nis Any of the first five kinds can be bought ready-made with copper, bronze, or alloy frames that are slender and attractive in appearance. At lower cost, you can have them made for you in wood frames by any good carpenter, or at a convenient planing-mill. Accurate measurement and careful workmanship are highly important, of course, inasmuch as inside screens form a part of your window ensemble. In general, all that is necessary for the attachment of inside screens is to place a narrow wood strip about 34 inch thick at each side and across the top of the window. On the edge farther from the window, a rebate receives the screen. This rebate should be cut into the wood strip 194 inches from the window, so that the screens will clear the hardware. The thin portion left by cutting away the wood to form the rebate should be as wide as the screen frame is thick (usually about 7% inch). These wood strips are known as screen-stops. They are best in- stalled by fastening them on top of narrower strips of common lumber, called plaster-grounds. The latter are nailed to the wood uprights, or “studs” in frame-and-masonry construction and to wood blocks set into the edge of the window opening when the walls are of solid masonry (see illustration on page twenty-one). The plaster is carried up to the plaster-ground, and the joint is covered by the screen-stop. Should you buy a home equipped with steel casements, but with no provision for inside screens, the situation is by no means hopeless. In brick veneer or other part-frame construction, your carpenter can drill through the plaster of the window-jamb, into the wood framing. Then the screen-stops can be screwed in place, over the plaster. If the walls are solid masonry, with no wood blocks as anchorage for nails or screws, it will probably be necessary to insert wood plugs in the plaster, just as explained in connection with curtain rods, on page nineteen, and attach the screen-stops to these plugs. For the wire mesh of the screens, a non-bagging, anti-rust screen cloth of bronze, with 16 squares to the inch. Such screening is known as “16-mesh.”’ By all means avoid cheap wire mesh, and if you have your screens made for you with wood frames, insist on having the mesh secured to the frames by means of removable beading strips, which are more sturdy than tacks and more sightly. Painted or stained to match the rest of the woodwork, inside screens page twenty-two H DE COR ATEN GG Welt Hy “CC A‘S'E MENTS” ee (Ee ee Se eee really become an attractive feature of any room. In painting them, how- ever, it is best not to paint the wire cloth itself, as some of the tiny holes are bound to fill up and form unattractive patches. Fixed Screens THE term, “fixed” is not truly descriptive of this type of screen. While not as movable as other types, because it does not slide or swing, the fixed screen is nonetheless easily handled by equipping it with hinges placed near the head of the window. This hardware is inexpensive and easily attached. The screen can be removed easily for washing the windows and, if the latter are equipped with Fenestra under-screen adjusters, they can be opened and closed without disturbing the screens. Under average conditions, this type of screen, fitted with under-screen adjusters, is probably the most satisfactory obtainable, and it is usually the least expensive. The Crank-Handle Operator ProBABLY the most satisfactory of the under-screen adjusters available with Fenestra Casements is the crank- handle operator, illustrated below, at the right. Used in conjunction with a fixed screen or a_horizontally-sliding screen, this adjuster combines neat ap- pearance, positive action, and ease of installation. The square, dignified-look- ing metal box which houses the ratchet mechanism is fastened by means of screws directly to the sill, between the window and the screen. The lower rail of the latter practically conceals the housing, and a small hole in the screen frame, through which the crank-handle is inserted into the mechanism, is all that shows. And the handle is remov- able when not in use. page twenty-three K DECORATING With CASEMENT s : TE SOE TR GS SER With a few turns of this handle, the sash can be swung wide open, to the 90-degree position, or, by reversing the direction of the swing of the handle, it can be closed tightly enough to keep out ordinarily bad weather. The action is prompt and positive, without lost motion or noise. Horizontally-Sliding Screens HorIZONTALLY-SLIDING screens are constructed in units each wider than a two light-wide section of a Fenestra Casement, so that one screen- unit overlaps another, and they can be moved back and forth in parallel tracks. It is best to make the units as wide as possible, because the longer bearing surfaces at top and bottom tend to keep the screens more truly in line and to make them slide more easily. Also, the fewer screen-units there are to a window, the better the appearance of the latter, as a result of keeping the number of vertical frame sections down to a minimum. page twenty-four Vara Rte SR Ee PE ES Se I 1D) 12. (Gi (OPES UIP LINE TE; MAY IAP sh (Oy BU iS, MLO INE AR): i Se eee Washing the window is easily accomplished by taking one section at a time, sliding the screen unit to one side (covering the next screen) and then replacing it and sliding the next one over it to clear the next portion of the casement. If desired, the screen units can be removed entirely by simply lifting them slightly, to compress the spring guides at the head, and then lifting them clear of the track at the sill. Horizontally-sliding screens are recommended for wide batteries of casement windows, particularly when the latter are low in height. The main objections to this type of screen are that the tracks on the sill are apt to gather dust, and any appreciable unevenness in the sill is apt to interfere with easy operation. On the other hand, these screens offer no interference with curtains, and need not be too large for easy handling. Side-Hinged Screens THE side-hinged screen is attached like a small door to the wood screen-stop of the casement with remov- able-pin hinges, which permit easy de- mounting and replacing of the screen. Or it may swing on top and bottom pivots which fit into metal sockets set in the woodwork of the window. The upper pivot is equipped with a spring to allow it to be withdrawn from its socket, after which the entire screen can be taken out with ease. Used on a single casement (one that is only two lights wide) it is fastened with a spring catch sunk into the screen rebate on the side opposite to the hinges. When this type of screen is used on a pair of casements, it is best constructed in two sections, each covering half of the total width of the window. The two meet in the center, and one has a light strip of wood fastened to it to act as a stop for the other. A latch secures the two of them. page twenty-five A close-up of the crank-handle operator, with a phantom view of the gear-box which is concealed by the screen-frame. The handle is easily removable. The flush-type under-screen operator is neat and in- conspicuous, as well as positive in its action. The handle can be lifted out readily when not in use. This is the surface-type operator, attached to the sill, with a small notch in the screen-frame. The handle of this operator, too, ts removable. page twenty-six ; DECORATING WITH CASEMENTS \ ) Se eee ee Other Types of Screens VERTICALLY-SLIDING screens, usually made in widths corresponding to the two-light-wide casement sections, consist of two halves placed one above the other, with their respective bottom and top frame members overlapping. These screens are best used with windows equipped with upper panels or transoms two lights or more in height, in order to bring the over-lapping horizontal bars opposite the horizontal mullion of the casements. Otherwise, the overlap of the screens will form an obstruc- tion across the line of vision. Screens of this type slide either on ver- tical metal tracks or in grooves in the wood trim at the window-jambs, very much as double-hung wood window sashes function. Top-hung screens are either hinged or suspended from metal hooks screwed to the wood trim or into the wall structure at the head of the window. They are especially useful for single casements (two lights wide). The roll-up screen operates like a shade, except that it is guided by two light metal tracks set into the woodwork at the side of the win- dow, and has its roller concealed in a rustproofed box set into the wall above the window. These screens are convenient, because they can be easily brought into use or rolled up, out of sight; but for an approximately equal amount of money, you can have any of the other types of screens with the added convenience of under-screen operators. Under-Screen Adjusters AT ONLY a nominalextra charge, steel casements can be equipped with under-screen adjusters (see opposite page) which give full control of the casement without the necessity of moving the screens. These adjusters not only hold the sash in any position up to 90 degrees of opening, but also lock them tightly enough for all ordinary purposes when closed. It is unnecessary to open the screens and use the locking handle. For Your Carpenter Ir your carpenter happens to be unfamiliar with screening steel casements, the drawings on pages thirty and thirty-one will show him exactly how the work should be handled. page twenty-seven f DE-GO RSA TIN G: “Wol’1-Hy ese MeN Le Cozier, Brighter Rooms at Low Cost N ESTABLISHING a new window vogue for homes both large and small, d are Steel Casements bring to home-builders everywhere the sparkling beauty of small panes and slender muntin-bars, plus many practical advantages—at no extra cost. Fenestra Casements are washed from the inside. Extension hinges, sturdy yet inconspicu- ous, hold the opened swing- leaves far enough away from the wall to give easy access to the outside of the glass—no danger- ous leaning out, backwards. Because their rolled steel bars can never warp, swell, shrink or stick, Fenestra Casements always open easily at a finger’s touch in any kind of weather. For the same reason, these bet- ter steel windows shut weather- tight at all times. Steel meets steel in a broad flat line of solid contact all around the sash, under the clamping pressure of a gracefully-curved locking handle. Electric through-weld- ing of all corners makes easy opening and accurate fit per- manent, built-in qualities. There's extra sunlight and fresh air, too, with Fenestra Casements, for their slender steel bars shut off almost none of the light, but permit practi- cally the entire window open- ing to be spanned with glass. page twenty-eight i 1D) 15, (GO) RE AN IP IE IN| (EP OWE Jah (OG) Ne) 1B, IME 8, INT IE ie) » Screened inside, these modern windows set off the full beauty of the home exterior, unmarred by the dull, ugly rectangles of outside screens; at the same time, inside screens, shielded Jrom dirt, help keep the dainti- est curtains clean and fresh. You get one-hundred per cent ventilation with Fenestra Case- ments, too, for both swing- leaves can be opened; with or- dinary double-hung windows, at least half the opening ts al- ways blocked off by the sash. And when you need a breeze, in hot weather, Fenestra Case- ments will bring it if there's a breath of air stirring, for the extended swing-leaves deflect into the rooms even breezes which move parallel to the wall. Casement Advantages at Low Cost ITH so many advantages—so much greater beauty—so many extra ee ree Aenea Casements give an impression of high cost without being really expensive. Although their cost as material is slightly above that of ordinary windows, they save so much in labor and time “on the job” that when completely installed, they actually cost little if any more than ordinary windows. Certainly no other item of equipment—wiring, roofing, plastering, landscaping, or what you will—adds so much at so little cost as Fenestra Casements. There’s a Fenestra office or a Fenestra dealer—probably your own lumber or building supply dealer—near you, to supply you promptly with these better steel windows from a convenient warehouse stock. page twenty-nine "SIIL HIN GEL SORLEW LT) VOLLEW HINGES “SHOYLO BE TLO*IN ACCORDANCE WITH WINDOW HINGES. —~ Details of Inside Screens These details for horizontally-sliding and vertically-sliding screens are representative of those which should be followed in screening Fenestra Steel Casements, whether screens are bought ready-made or are built by your carpenter. SIGCSE YES DeseLey BRACKET. WING ZL AT SAML* — ae N/N0 OW VERTICAL *VLLION® “MELTING + RAIL PUR) SG LIE INE “GEARED TIPE x UND ERSCRE EN: p | OPERATOR: ~ \ \ 2 - we STLINS eVERTICAL* SECTION: REMOVABLE HANDLE, a SAME: SHOWING SURFACE*TYPE* OF ERATOR: ea HAWOLE- “GLARED TYPE- ESO ° JAMB* SHOWING? GLARE B* TYPE * OPERATOL: eHORIZONTALSSLCTIONS® page thirty Details of Inside Screens Here are shown simple, easily followed details for the application of either hinged or vertically-sliding screens on Fenestra Steel Case- ments. The sectional views of the under-screen operators indicate their proper positions. Oke SLIDING MPCLLEN® SV LLI "SLIDING CF OCLLEN* y O) © DRAPELY SRACK ET SCALEN STOP Hy mois H SHADE vs SCLEEW ST VERT/ CAL? Wl OBIE TE > °7" BAR: MVLLION? °W00D:HVLLION? AVLLION® Ve ae VERTICAL *MVLLIONS®? page thirty-one ime “DECORATING with CASEMENTS” Your friends can obtain copies of by Writing to Tue Detroit STEEL Propucts Co., 2250 East Grand Boulevard Detroit, MicHiGAN — mew if F. A. 131 25M-4-28 Printed in U.S.A. by Anchor Press Inc. 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