MONG INDIAN YOUNG FROM REPORTS OF EDWARD C, CARTER, '00 fe Th Maui ISSUED BY THE HARVARD CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS March, 1904. We irae ky) ie be Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Columbia University Libraries https://archive.org/details/amongindianyoungOOcart AMONG INDIAN YOUNG MEN FROM REPORTS OF EDWARD C. CARTER, ’00O ISSUED BY THE HARVARD CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS March, 1904 fw ’ rey ’ : A AB ERROR CONTENTS: INTRODUCTORY What Carter is doing in India Map and itinerary THE JOURNEY To INDIA — A preliminary survey of the field and first impression . Colombo Madras, Missionary and Association Conferences Calcutta 3 , Delhi and the Durbar Ahmednuggar Bombay REGULAR WoRK BEGUN IN BENGAL, THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND THE PUNJAB Bareilly Lahore Delhi Cawnpore Lucknow Allahabad : ; : Student Conference at Walajabad Madras BURMAH AND DEVELOPMENTS SINCE APRIL 27, 1903 List oF POSITIONS IN INDIA WHERE HARVARD MEN ARE NEEDED “4 . Co \ a P i , + 4 ’ ‘ : ; , \ } ‘ ‘ } ‘ ; - : x What Carter 1s Doing In India. It has been my aim to enter so far as is possible the inner thought life of all or nearly all sections of this highly organized social life. Not only have I aimed keenly to ob- serve the life of the natives of the land—I have sought opportunities to acquaint myself with the European and Eurasian sections of the population. The presence of thou- sands of European, young men, nearly all of whom are in positions where they are looked up to by great numbers of non-Christian young men, compels attention to their social and moral needs. Few greater influences for righteousness could be conceived than that which might be exerted if the representatives of Christian countries who are engaged in trade and Government service were making sincere efforts to pattern their lives after that of the Master. So far as has been possible I have endeavored to meet all elasses aS one in real sympathy with their position and ambitions. I have endeavored to do as the Romans do, whether it involves eating native food in native fashion, or accepting hospitality in unkempt student lodgings, or in the simple routine life of a missionary station, or don- ning golfing flannels or evening dress when entertained in the home of some leading English official. My position as travelling secretary for Northern India of the Indian Na- tional Council of the Young Men’s Christian Associations, has given me invaluable opportunities for studying some of the larger problems that are confronting those who aim to make higher the ideals for which these people are striving Furthermore, as a representative from a recognized Uni- versity with the unoffending commission “to study the life and conditions of students in India” scores of places other- wise inaccessible have been thrown open to me and I have been most cordially received. The universal courtesy ex- tended to me by officials, missionaries, merchants, Hindus and Mohamedans has been a source of constant pleasure. 5 Introductiony which I was fortunate in receiving from in- fluential persons in England have made smooth many a path. The 15,490 miles traversed since I landed in Ceylon, carrying me all the way from Tutticorin in the far south to Rawal Pindi and Darjeeling along the great Northern frontier, and from Bombay on the west to Dacca and Ran- goon on the east, have of necessity given me a sweep of the whole country which is most suggestive. Later years can only bring all that I have seen into its larger and deeper significance. Only when one gets a mastery of the vernacu- lar can! he expect to understand to the full the life of the great masses. As I have understood it, our idea as it developed for sev- eral months previous to my sailing for the East, was that I was sent as a Harvard missionary to study the needs of the young men of this country, to do all that I could personally to bring about a better state of affairs, and furthermore, to discover opportunities for other Harvard men to spend their lives here to the same end. In the letter I sent to you some weeks ago was incorporated a suggestive list of opportunities for Harvard men in this land. It is not my intention to go into this matter at the present time; but it is still my earnest prayer and hope that another decade will see instead of one Harvard graduate beside myself engaged in mission work in India, more than a score of men assigned to those positions of greatest need here where a life invested will bring returns of a hundred-fold in the bettered con- ditions of the generations that are to come after. Rangoon, May 1, 1903. 1 Bofors | |X BOKHaRa fl” 430 | Osseo iS = : *, face aa Patni \) [as eat Ze | 1 | | tincray c(i E DaP ie 20, {Now 22) : yt t A * ye (ralt-of Carcd, proial Daryee Wg Cabeats & < \ \ —— aa - | laces net on the Map | Naine Tal | oy Waltayabad | Mu (1) Searam pore 1 rn cuits Q) Navi Tat | ra Pun OY Mussourid it Maher (5) Hooghly | awat Py; a hove A POLITICAL MAP whra Dun or oorkee INDIA ee@rut ~ English Miles athe mS . = a) Nearh ra Fy favneur ee ee ete “MAitchabod Gapgeoh (pri 30), " 23 Asansol Tote/ ofr: Cee qrileag Colom bor te Rangoon Map showing Carter’s course Nov. 22, 1902, to April 30, 1903. 15494 miles Colombo to Rangoon. Novy. Dec. 1903. Jan. Feb. 22. 26-28. 28-Nov. 1. 1-3. 3 4-6. {fs 22-27. 29. 11-18. 18-22. 24-30. 31-Jan. 1. 2. 3-5. ~] Itinerary. Sailed from Boston. Oxtord. Trinity College. London. Time spent in interviews with officials in India Office and Chris- tian Association leaders. Edinburgh and Glasgow. Cambridge. Sidcup (Kent), London and Oxford. Paris. Geneva. Spent with Christian Association officials. Chevalleyres, Vevey, Switzerland. With Robert P. Wilder, General Secretary for India. Marseilles. Sailed for Colombo. Colombo and Kandy. Madras and Bangalore. Madras. Decennial Missionary Conference. Madras. Christian Association Secretaries’ Conference. Calcutta. Delhi. Ahmednuggar. Bombay. Calcutta. Cuttack. Dacca. Allahabad. Lucknow. Hughli. Serampore. Darjeeling. Benares. William Carey’s College. Feb. Mar. Apr. 21-25. 25-27. 28. 2-3. 4-21. 16-17. 24-26. 26. 28-Apr. 2. 3-7. 10-13. 17. 23-27. 27. Bareilly. Naini Tal. Mussoorie. Roorki. Lahore. Making trips to Rawal Pindi, Dehra Dun, Roorki, Meerut, Ali- garh, Agra, Cawnpore, Lucknow and Allahabad. Delhi. Cawnpore. Lucknow. Allahabad. Calcutta. Wallajabad. Madras. Calcutta. Sailed for Rangoon, Lower Burma. Preliminary View of the Field and First Impressions. Before beginning my regular duties as travelling secre- tary for northern India it seemed advisable to get an idea —unfortunatelyrather cursory—of mission work in general, and to study the work of the Association in various parts of India. Instead, therefore, of making at once for the North I took passage for Ceylon, where I landed November twenty- second. Without doubt the hymnist’s description, ““Where every prospect pleases,’ is thoroughly applicable, and if “only man is vile,” he is nevertheless most picturesque. This isle of luxuriant vegetation, of spicy, hothouse atmosphere and many raced population is not for the matter-of-fact pencil of the tourist. It can only be described by the artist’s brush and the word-painter’s pen. Colombo. Colombo is a veritable Midsummer Night’s Dream in broad daylight. ‘Colombo itself, outside the actual town, is a perfect labyrinth of shady bowers and flowery streams and lakes. For miles you drive under arbours of feathery bamboos, broad-leaved breadfruit trees, talipot and areca palms, cocoanut groves, of rice fields, cinnamon, and sugar cane, amidst which at night the fireflies dart in glittering clusters. The lowest hut is embosomed in palm fronds and the bright crimson blossoms of the hibiscus. Wherever in- telligent cultivation aids the prolific force of nature there is enough in the profusion of nutmegs and allspice, of india rubber and cinchonas, of cannas dracaenas, crotons and other wonders of Cingalese flora, to give endless and de- lighted study to the lover of nature.’’* Perpetual is the beauty, perpetual also the climate—a sort of continuous Turkish bath atmosphere. Mission work goes on, and like the vegetation, seems to thrive. The glimpse *Sir Edwin Arnold. that I got of the work of the Church Missionary Society and Wesleyan Society at Kandy, Cotte and Colombo did not bring disappointment to my uncertain feelings. This, the first experience with Missions, I had felt was to be a bit critical. Little need there proved to be for misgivings. A few days were sufficient to convince me that the work ot the Colombo Young Men’s Christian Association was be- ing done in a thorough though unpretentious fashion. I was told by a missionary up in Kandy that all over the island were young men who had been influenced by the Colombo Association, and especially by the person- ality of Louis Hieb, the secretary. At the time of my visit, Mr. Hieb was in England securing funds for a large equip- ment. Of this attractive building I discovered that the chief promoters are three leading citizens—Sir William Mitchell, Mr. John Ferguson, the editor of the leading Cey- lon daily, and the Rev. Arthur Dibben, the secretary of the Ceylon Mission of the Church Missionary Society. Madras. From Colombo I crossed by steamer to Tutticorin. I was at last in India—Ceylon being a wholly separate colony and not under the Viceroy. My first journey on Indian soil was a twenty-hour ride from Tutticorin to Madras. The frequent prolonged stops at stations, common to most Indian trains, gave bountiful material to fill my first day with lasting impressions of the South Indian peoples. Of course the life along the railway lines is somewhat different from what it was before the coming of the transit and the level. Even now, however, the groups on a station platform have a picturesqueness which cannot be divested of an element of the grotesque. A modern railway train carrying its load of people (primitive in dress at least), is one of the incon- gruities of Eastern life. The railways have been a great agency in the breaking down of caste. The officious little Eurasian ticket-collector who bustles sacred Bramins and unclean outcasts into the same crowded compartment might well be numbereu among India’s truest benefactors. Then, too, the wider outlook that travel gives and the facilitating Io Rangoon —“ The Secretariat” viewed from the Young Men’s Christian Association Building. Madras Tram Car. of the upbuilding of educational centres are among the benefits that the railroad has conferred upon the Indian peoples. For over three weeks I stayed in Madras, the third city of the country. I was impressed with the comfortable pro- portions and the imposing aspect of the public and other buildings. Once let them catch a glimpse of the High Court, the Madras Christian College and the Young Men’s Chris- tian Association buildings, and those who picture India as a land solely of mud and straw huts and tents, rapidly would be disillusionized. Hvery large town has buildings that would be hailed as adornments to many an American city. The omnipresent electric car is another evidence of the invasion of Western civilization. Though they are labelled with the mysterious hieroglyphics of the vernacular, sur- mounting all, the handsome Mellin’s Food signs make home seem not so distant after all! My journey was so arranged that at Madras I was privileged to be present at the Fourth Decennial Conference of all missionaries in India. How I wish that some swift-footed messenger could have conveyed to the people at home an idea of this profoundly important gathering. Selected representatives from all the Protestant missions were on hand. The numbers were limited. No huge audiences were assembled to hang breath- less on the words of great orators. The aim was at tangible results. Committees formed months beforehand had mas- tered the departments of work assigned to them and em- bodied the result in the form of resolutions, which after a final revision during the opening days, were submitted to the whole conference, discussed and adopted. All phases of mission enterprises were discussed separately, viz., the native church, work for the young, industrial education, higher education, etc. One very strong impression made upon me was the unity existing among missionaries of all denominations. The various resolutions* contain the re *The report of the conference has been published by the Christian Society of Madras and Loudon at 114 Rupees (50 cents) per copy. Il sults of experienced workers of all creeds and all forms of work. A resolution passed unanimously on the last day of the conference was an appeal to the home Church to undertake with thorough earnestness the transformation of this people. Conference of Association Leaders. Immediately following the Decennial Missionary Confer- ence came the annual gathering of the Association general secretaries, of whom I was now numbered as one. Save Holland of Allahabad and Sarvis of Calcutta, all were pres- ent. The four days of practical discussion of the larger problems and possibilities of the movement ana the oppor- tunities for making the acquaintance and entering the friendship of the older men, were of incalculable value to us new workers. Crowning all was the spiritual fellowship of men representing five countries, seven religious sects and _ a dozen different Universities, bound by a common work and purpose. Calcutta. Part of Kipling’s description in ““‘William The Conqueror” is applicable to the thousand-mile journey that brought us to Calcutta at the end of the Conference. We passed through tracts inhabited by different races; as we ap proached the North the jabbering on the station platforms was in another language; the names of the towns were in different characters; “even the smells were different.” Arrived in Calcutta I was in the capital and chief city of an Empire of well nigh 300,000,000 people, to vast num- bers of whom the name Calcutta has even less of meaning than London had to our mountain whites a couple of decades ago. Here is located the seat of one of the most honestly administered of the world’s governments. Here is the residence of the Viceroy, whose absolute power is almost as enormous as that held by any modern potentate. Hach year are enrolled at Calcutta,12,000 University students and 40,000 school boys. Though 80 miles from the sea, the port extending for ten miles along the Hooghly can harbor vessels drawing 27 feet of water. Fed by a network of rail- EZ Ways, and two great riverways, the Ganges and the Bramaputra, Calcutta is the receiving centre for Bengal, upper India, Assam and part of Central India. It has the great share of the export trade in jute and articles of jute manufacture, coal, lac, and saltpetre. In addition there are large amounts of tea, opium, seeds, rice, indigo, hides and skins, silk, etc. The imports include all the wide range of innumerable foreign commodities—from railway materials, machinery and automobiles, to Quaker Oats, Pear’s soap and Jaegar’s flannels. At Government House grand levees are held during the season, easily rivaling in splendor and outlay the efforts in the West. Opera and theatrical companies from London and San Francisco present last season’s productions. A couple of mediocre circuses gather great crowds of peanut shelling men and women to their nightly performances. Western Biograph and Graphophone entertainers give each year a few exhibitions. Italian singers and other birds of passage stop every now and then and gather an audience and a few rupees. Recently an Hnglish audience was treat- ed to a Shakespeare reading by a couple of New Yorkers. To describe all the agencies for good is here impossible. Not simply are Christian forces at work. The Bramo and Arya Samajs, reforming sects of Hindus, are aiming at better things. Sixteen different Protestant Societies have missions in the city; one single denomination (the Angli- can) maintains no less than fifteen churches. The Young Men’s Christian Association property is valued at upwards of six laks of rupees ($200,000). The work of the Associa- tion occupies a unique position in the life of the city. The European branch, aiming as it does, to provide wholesome influences for young men who are thousands of miles from the restraints of home is potent in furnishing counter attractions in a place where temptations are peculiarly subtle and the moral life of the whole community not over high. Men in business and government service who for- merly were alienated largely from the Church because it seemed to exist solely as a proselyting agency among the heathen, have been brought back into the Church by the 3 moral aims and practical methods of those who were ‘con- vinced of the need of an Association of the best American type. The huge gap stretching between the Missionaries and the great proportion of the other Europeans of the community is beginning to narrow, a fact largely due to the work of the Christian Association. The Student branch located prominently in the heart of the student quarter presents to both the inquiring and scep- tical Hindu, the altogether too unique example of a union effort participated in by Christians of numerous sects: an effort for righteousness on the platform of a common Master and one Lord of all. The significant spectacle afforded in the hostel of seeing ten Christians, seven Hindus, five Bramos and two Buddhists eating day after day at a com- mon mess is to be seen in few other places. It was in Overtoun Hall, the Association Auditorium, that Dr. Charles Cuthbert Hall in December, 1902, delivered the Haskell lectures. He spoke to crowded and enthusiastic audiences, and his) ministry here as throughout India, was characterized by his deep appreciation of the thought-life of the East, together with his uncompromising presentation of Christianity as the supreme religion. Such special ad- vantages as these supplementing the daily opportunities, afforded to all seekers for truth, make the college branch a stronghold of wholesome influence in the feverish life of one of the largest student centres of the world. December 30 I left for Western India to meet Dr. Charles Cuthoert Hall, who had left Calcutta before I arrived, and lay before him our urgent need for several thoroughly equipped men. [I desired to secure his co-operation in pre- senting to certain of his strong men at Union Seminary, New York, the unique opportunities in connection with our movement. Delhi and the Durbar. Witn Mr. J. Campbell White, who leaves the secretaryship of the Association in Calcutta this year to become the secre- tary of the Home and Foreign Missions Board of the Pres- byterian Church in America, I travelled as far as Delhi, 14 where we spent a short but never to be forgotten time be- holding the wonder inspiring sights of the Coronation Dur- bar. To be sure, we were not there long enough to attend all the great state functions, nor did we have the distinc- tion of being entertained at a Rajah’s. Yet what we did see was quite grand enough for our plain eyes. Had Lord Curzon imported a dozen Tiffanys and Red- ferns, a decade of Harvard Class Days, a score of Bar- nums, aS many more Dewey processions and the whole American Army, he could hardly have produced the pageant of that Fairy Tale occasion. It is said that no other man living could have run so stupendous a show. Indeed, some of the native papers characterized it as the ‘“Curzonation.” As @ pageant it was a real success. As a revelation to the assembled princes and semi-independent chieftains of the immense and far-reaching power of the British Empire it was without precedent. Ahmednuggar. Departing from the dazzling sights of Delhi, Mr. White proceeded on his journey into the far Punjab, while I contin- ued on my way to Ahmednuggar, where I visited the Ameri- can Board Mission. Here, as at Delhi, are Empire Builders. Here, too, are men working for the extension of a Kingdom. The banner is an even more sacred sign than that of Eng- land’s King: the campaigns here projected, are fought ina territory far more difficult of conquest than any which have yet confronted the British soldiery. The realm of human thought is being invaded; the huge fortresses of superstition and error are being reduced; ancient systems, once pure though incomplete, now impure and sin-breeding, are being supplanted not so much by new systems as by new lives. Sordid selfishness, reluctant, and contending every step is gradually giving way before the quiet, confi- dent advance of self-sacrificing love. Following the long hight of social distrust and tribal enmity the first faint rays of a growing national consciousness are beginning to appear. The modern Missionary no longer combats all that is T5 sacred to the Indian as of the evil one. Only against that which is of error and selfishness does he direct his attacks. Like Judaism, the profound truth of these old religions is not supplanted, but rather jinds interpretation and fulfil- ment in Christianity. With Paul the missionary of today says, “whom you ignorantly worship, him declare I unto you.” Nor is it an illy accoutered effort that is being made at Ahmednuggar. In addition to the common and high schools,are a well equipped hospital, an agricultural institu- tion, and a thoroughgoing industrial school where many trades are taught. Here was the confirmation of the state ment made to me by a high official at the Indian office in London that the industrial education carried on at the several stations of the American Board in Western India was recognized by the Government as the only thoroughiy successful and symmetrical work done by any agency, Gov- ernment or Missionary, in all India. In addition to the preacher and teacher, many mission stations need the man of scientific and technical training. It has been said that an invention of one of the Ahmed- nuggar missionaries (a graduate. both of Oberlin and Massachusetts Institute of Technology) bids fair to revolu- tionize certain industrial conditions in hundreds of villages. Great as are the products of the mills at such places as Bombay and Cawnpore, so long as the majority of the population live in small villages, the bulk of India’s: weav- ing for many generations will be done on hand looms in the homes of the people. A British firm, recognizing this, undertook to market an improved hand loom. Not only was this largely of metal and so complicated as to demand an expert machinist when repairs were needed, but it could not be sold for less than two hundred Rupees—an absolutely prohibitivesum. Mr.D.C.Churchill of the American Mission has invented a hand loom made of wood, so simpie that an average village carpenter can make any necessary repairs. It produces three times as much cloth as the native loom, and the work is in every way equal to the native product. He is having a large demand for these looms at fifty Rupees 16 and they may be sold much cheaper. Who can calculate the benefit of such an invention to a poverty stricken country like India? Bombay. From Ahmednuggar I went, on January 3, to Bombay to see the Association work there and compare the condi- tions with the other presidency cities. Instead of central- izing the work in one large building, the secretary, Frank Anderson, has done the less showy work of building up small branches in several parts of the city, thereby estab- lishing points of contact with many sections and classes of young men. It is to be hoped that the Hnglish Association movement which undertakes to man the Western India field may be in a position to send out a man in the autumn of 1903 or 1904 to assist Anderson in his rapidly developing work. The work has been started along the best lines and only needs additions to the staff to make it command the success which the Association in so large and important a city should have. In Bombay I saw more of the work of the American Mission and was captivated by its reality. It was my privi- lege to’ see the work with a party of American globe trot- ters whom the American Consul had urged to visit the Mission. Never were people more surprised. They came in a rather perfunctory way as if they hoped it would not take very long and with an evident preconceived prejudice against Missions. As department aiter department was shown and explained, wonder displaced surprise, and admi- ration, wonder. And when the tour ended with a splendid American breakfast with Rev. and Mrs. Hume, it was easy to see what a complete change had been wrought in their ideas of Missions and Missionaries. When one visits such Missions as these and sees the magnificent work for the Kingdom of Almighty God, he cannot but say with Lord John Lawrence, the greatest otf all Indian Viceroys, ““Notwithstanding all that the English people have done to benefit India, the missionaries have done more than all other agencies combined.” From Bombay I returned to Calcutta, where I spent a week in further preparation for my work as travelling sec- Tetary, which was formally to begin January 16. 17 Regular Work Begun in Bengal, the Northwest Provinces and the Punja6. My instructions from the Indian National Council and from the Foreign Department of the Christian Associations in America as well as those from the office of the British College Christian Union in London are to plant and develop self-supporting, self-perpetuating, and self-propagating as- sociations, and to hold them true to the main objects of the movement. These are: — (1) To bring men to an understanding knowledge of the Savior and to lead them to undertake their share in the work of the church. (2) To build men up in faith and character. (3) To train men so that they will be of the largest ser- vice to God and their fellow men. (4) To enlist young men in the work of extending the Kingdom of Christ throughout the world. As a representative of the Association at Harvard I have been sent to help to “pay the debt Harvard owes to the students of the Hast,’ an obligation to share whatever of good Harvard has given to her sons with the men of that East from which much of it came, and where some of it has since been forgotten. I have been sent also to prepare the way and introduce to a useful work in India such other men as, Harvard may from time to time offer for lives of service in the Hast. These, therefore, were the objectives before me as I set out upon my first tour January 16, 1903. In connection with my stated work I have made many opportunities for studying certain phases of life in order that I might the more thoroughly execute the commission given me by the Harvard Association. Indeed, several institutions I have visited altogether as a representative of the Harvard move- ment. After leaving Calcutta on January sixteenth, I visited 18 Cuttack, Hooghli, Asansol, Dacca, Darjeeling and Serampore in Bengal; Allahabad, Lucknow, Benares, Bareilly, Naini Tal, Mussoorie, Dehra Dun, Roorkee, Meerut, Aligarh, Agra, and Cawnpore in the North West Provinces and (unofficial- ly) Delhi, Lahore and Rawal Pindi in the Punjab. In this first tour the aim has not been so much to plant new Associations as to get an idea of existing conditions and to assist and strengthen Associations already organ- ized. Besides this it has been possible to study the needs and possibilities in certain centres, where we have been asked to organize local associations. During this tour I have been entertained at stations of eight different Mission Boards:—United Free Church of Scotland; Church Missionary Society (C. M. S.); English Baptists (B. M. S.); American Methodist; London Mis- Sionary Society (Congregational); Society for the Propa- gation of the Gospel (S. P. G.); American Presbyterian; United Presbyterian (American). Beside this I have seen something of the work of English Wesleyans, The Hstab- lished Scottish Church, Oxford Mission, and the Edinburgh Medical Mission. I regret that during the tour an oppor- tunity was not presented to see the work at any Roman Catholic stations. At the risk of tediousness I will give here an account of my visit to Bareilly. Bareilly. I arrived from Benares at 11.30 Saturday evening, and directed the “ticca gharrie wallah” to drive me at once to Dr. Scott’s, the head of the Mission (American Methodist). At 8 A. M. Sunday I preached (through an interpreter) at the regular morning service to 500 native Christians. At six in the evening another sermon at the Hnglish service attended by soldiers, station people, etc. Again, Monday morning at 9, through an interpreter, I gave a devotional address to the 70 students attending the Theological Semi- nary. In the afternoon at 5 came a secular lecture on “University Life in America,’ delivered in the Town Hall to the students in Bareilly College (not a Mission College) and other English speaking Indians. At 9 A. M., Tuesday, BS another address to the theological students; at ten a tour of inspection of the Mission dispensary, the orphanage and the kindergarten. ‘At 12 a conference with the officers and committeemen of the Association. At 2, tiffin with the energetic head of Bareilly College—a Jesus College (Ox- ford) graduate. At 5 a lecture in the Common Room of Bareilly College—at the invitation of some of the Hindu students who had been present at the lecture the afternoon before. In accordance’ with their wish it was a religious address. It aimed at recognizing that which was best in their own thought-life, and at the same time it was unvar- nished in its presentation of the supremacy of Christianity as the motive power for the transforming of India. The discussion which followed, participated in by Brahmins and others, showed at once the inborn courtesy of the high- caste Indian and the profound influence which the person- ality of Our Savior is exerting’ on many students who are still obedient to their ancestral faith. At 8 P. M., I gavea short devotional talk at the weekly meeting of the Mis- sionaries; and at 6.30, Wednesday morning, I had left and was on my way to Naini Tal. It was my happy fortune while in Bareilly to meet Pandit Ikbal Kishen, Professor of Philosophy in the college. He has recently written an essay on Berkeley’s “Theory of Perception,’ which has met worthy comment outside of India. His appreciation of Berkeley’s Philosophy is but an index of| the profound mind and sincere heart of one who is typical of scores of others all over India who all of a sudden are finding themselves at the parting of the ways, unable longer to continue on Hinduism’s crowded highway, yet not quite ready to pass through the heart-breaking sepa- rations of those who choose to proceed in lonesomeness along the path of Christian service. Such, then, in brief, are three days fairly typical of much of my work. Numerous as are the demands, the days have been full of inspiration, of broadening vistas, and enlarged ambitions. To live even for three days with such people as Dr. and Mrs. Scott sends one away a richer man. On February 25 I left Bareilly for Naini Tal, one of the 20 important Hill Stations, the summer seat of the North West Provinces Government, where my mission was to assist slightly in the preliminaries to the acquisition of some property for an Association about to be organized. The local leaders wished to secure a knowledge of the experience and precedents in other places as regards Boards of Trustees, their liabilities as holders of property, ete. Lahore. After Mussoorie and Roorki came a visit to Lahore, which, next to Calcutta, is the largest student centre in India. Here, Gilbert and Turner are stationed. Previous to their coming last autumn, the Association had had a checkered career of ups and downs. Since their arrival, however, a marked change has been made and the present success augurs a bright future. In Lahore is located the Forman Christian College (American Presbyterian), under the able presidency of Dr. J.C. R. Ewing. It was with no little pride that I learned that this American Institution from an educational point of view, is the strongest in the whole Punjab. At a recent meeting of all the Punjab Missionaries of this board query was made as to the most encouraging feature of the Mis- sion. Without exception the Mofussil missionaries stated that it was the work of the Mission College. They said that though very few of the graduates were Christians, yet when they returned to their villages after taking their degrees, these fellows rallied to the support of missionary enter- prises, led whole villages to place their confidence in the Missionaries, and sought in every way to further the work. Lahore is a city with many points of interest. Opposite the “Wonder House” still stands old Zam Zammeh, the historic cannon which introduced “Kim” to the Kipling reading world. A visit to the roofs of one of the highest houses in the native city revealed the scene of the “Little Friend of all the World’s” “headiong flight from housetop to housetop under the cover of the hot dark” “executing commissions” “for sleek and shiny men of fashion.”* No *See Chapter I, ‘“ Kim.” 21 other city which I have seen presents such an impressive sweep of lofty, closely huddled, feverish houses. A night’s journey north of Lahore brought me to Rawal Pindi, one of the stations of the United Presbyterian Mission (American). Here at Rawal Pindi a Christian College is being built up which will draw its students from northern Punjab and increasingly gather in young men from the sturdy, warlike, capable border tribes. Delhi. From Rawal Pindi I turned southwards, visiting the Chris- tian Associations in the A. P. Mission High School at Dehra Dun; in the Government Engineering College at Roorkee; and the one among the young Indians of the C. M. S. and M. H. Missions at Meerut. Next came Delhi, where I stayed at the Cambridge Mission and appreciated greatly the op- portunity of seeing somewhat of the life of the Brotherhood. It was here exactly twenty years before that Phillips Brooks was entertained so hospitably while Evert Wendell, who was touring India with him, was ill with small-pox. I will be doing well to couch my impressions in Phillips Brooks’ own words: “Three young fellows, graduates of Cambridge, scholars and gentlemen, live here together, and give themselves to missionary work. They have some first-rate schools, and are just starting a high-class college. They preach in the bazaars, and have their mission stations out in the country, where they constantly go. I have grown to respect them thoroughly. Serious, devoted, self-sacrificing feliows they are, rather high churchmen, but thoughtful, and scholarly, and with all the best broad church books upon their shelves. They are jolly, pleasant companions as possible, and yes- terday I saw a cricket match between their school and the Government school here, in which one of these young par- sons played a first-rate bat. Under their guidance I have seen very thoroughly this wonderful old city, the great seat of the Mogul Empire, excessively rich in the best Moham- medan architecture.” To be sure there are now seven instead of three; and 22 «Avjopunjy of pvoy 241 uC ,, ‘sungry ear upd szyzvy ayy (Ue SIJWII}S JY} YO}VM Iaj9sN IAA ,, one of the “three young fellows” is now the grey haired Father Superior, and another is the present Bishop of Lahore. The “High-class college’ is now a well recognized institution, and though not large has had a splendid record. Without doubt the existence of a University Mission does much to intensify the interest of undergraduates of Cam- bridge in the Mission cause as it has done at Oxford. May it not be possible for the Harvard Association before long to extend its present missionary programme by choosing some one centre which will be a sort of rallying point for all Harvard men who come to join different Missions in India or to engage in commerce, and which will be a rest- house for those birds of passage who “do” India in a fortnight on their way to Manila and Japan. Cawnpore. I arrived at Cawnpore early one morning near the end of March and went directly to the Civil and Military Hotel, where I was to put up. One oi the missionaries who met me at the station insisted on taking me for a drive (the morning was still cool) to the points of historic interest in connection with the Mutiny. Historian or novelist has never yet reproduced the horrible tragedy of those awful and long continued days of living death. In the evening I spoke to a meeting in one of the churches, composed largely of young people and soldiers. After this came a splendid informal song service in the sol- diers’ prayer-roomatthe Army barracks. In one of the regi- ments, especially, there was a considerable number of clean- living chaps who were the life of the Soldiers’ Christian Association and a power for good in the whole regiment. To get close to these rough, big-hearted soldiers who go to the ends of the earth to uphold the honor of the English flag is really a privilege. No class of people ever existed who are more appreciative of attention. Usually you find no half-hearted men in the Soldiers’ Christian Association. A man has got to be living up to his professions to pass muster in the army. The next day I spent several hours visiting the various 23 departments of the S. P. G. (High Anglican) Mission. The two leaders are the sons of the late Canon Westcott. Like most of the S. P. G. stations the mission is strongly organ- ized and manned by capable, though rather ritualistic men. In their industrial work I observed that the heads of the printing, carpentering and brass founding departments were all artisans brought out from England to the work. That evening I spoke to about 200 native Christians through an interpreter. This meeting was followed by a conference of officers and committee chairmen of the native Christian Association, which I found simply needed leader- ship to continue the programme of able religious services and Sunday School work they had been carrying on in the past. Lucknow. From Cawnpur I went to Lucknow, where there are even more evidences of the awiul days of the mutiny. On this, my second visit to Lucknow, I gave most of my time to getting acquainted with those sections of the stu- dent community not visited betore, viz., the Government (Canning) College, Colvin School, a fashionable institution for the sons of native princes and wealthy landowners, and La Matinierre, the “St. Xavier’s’” where “Kim” was sent to acquire the knowledge of the Sahibs. The plague was at its height when I was in Lucknow, and while never affecting Huropeans, its ravages were working fierce havoc in the native quarter and in the neighboring country. The Superstition of the people against being in- oculated has brought death to many a cottage. Since, how- ever, the Government has ceased making it compulsory, the number of natives applying for inoculation has greatly increased. So great is the superstition of the people that the rumor that the Government is the agency which is spreading the plague gained great credence. Inoculation was held to be the means by which the officials were spread- ing the dread disease. In a certain section of the native city in Lucknow, the people appointed a watch every night to prevent any Europeans passing through the streets and scattering the plague. 24 A babu (educated native) recently rolled up some pow- ders and put them into different colored papers and went out to some of the villages telling the people that he had been sent by the Government to spread the plague, but that he would refrain if they would give him some money. In one village he demanded twenty-five rupees, an enormous sum for a small village. The head men of the village tried to get him to reduce his price but he remained obdurate. So after a little, one of them slipped away to the nearest police station and asked if twenty-five rupees was the right price to pay for keeping away the plague. Of course this led to the immediate arrest of the babu. In Cawnpur, the Municipality has recently been con- structing a huge sewer, completely surrounding the native city. One day great consternation was caused by the rumor which stalked through the bazaar that the Sahibs were going to fill this with dynamite, move all the Europeans across the river under the cover of some dark night, and then blow up the whole native population. Beside the opportunities and need of effort on behalf of the Indian students in Lucknow, many people expressed the hope that it would be possible for us before long to open a Christian club for the large number of Huropean and Eurasian young men who are employed in the railway workshops and in the stores. I saw the head of the shops of the Oudh and Rohilkhand R. R., and he assured me of his hearty co-operation in such an enterprise. Allahabad. From Lucknow I proceeded to Allahabad. Allahabad is the winter seat of the Northwest Provinces Government. This means that there is a considerable English speaking population, composed. of the officials themselves, and Eura- sian and Indian clerks, accountants, etc. In addition to Holland’s work among the Indian students in the Gov- ernment College, Grace carries on a work that is two-fold. (1) A club is maintained for Europeans and Hurasians. (2) In the native city there is a well equipped reading room and a good sized lecture hall where educated Indians 25 (mest of them attachés of the Government offices) congre gate to listen to lectures on literary, religious and other subjects. Situated in the centre of the native city, it stands in a unique position as an exponent of a broader learning and a deeper religious consciousness. Student Conference at Walajabad. From Allahabad I proceeded to Asansol and Calcutta, and om the seventh of April I entrained tor South India to at- tendtheStudent Camp to be held at Walajabad. This Easter conferencedrew students from as far North as Masulipatam and PalamcottahontheSouth. There were86students present from 28 schools and colleges, and as a body they represented the flower of the young life among the Christian communi- ties of South India. Much time was spent in studying the several methods of Bible Study. The normal Christian life, personal work, etc., were among the subjects discussed. A strong appeal was made by one of the students to the dele- gates to devote their lives to the evangelization of India. The few missionary movements that have already started were cited as a stimulus to further action. The Christian church in Jaffna has for long been carrying on mission work amongst the neighboring islands, and has recently separated two of its number to cross over into India to serve as their representatives there. The annual budget of this Church is something like this: Local expenses, Rs. 12,000; home Missions (to the neighboring islands), Rs. 2,000; foreign Missions, Rs.1,000. When the Christian church all over India rises to such a standard the day of India’s greatest joy will be hastened. The fires are already spread- ing. The Telegus on the Hast Coast are sending a man to Africa to work among the Telegus who have migrated there. The Tamils of Tinnivelly have organized a strong society and are studying the whole Indian field in order to secure the best place for starting their work. The Marathi Church in Bombay, in responses to a pastorless church hundreds of miles away in another language belt sent its pastor for the work, and though they have had to hire another pastor, are still continuing to pay their missionary pastor’s salary. 26 Only those who know how slow the poverty stricken church has been in acquiring the missionary spirit can understand what encouragement these signs of progress bring. It was interesting to note the similarity between this conference and those at Northfield and at Harvard. There was the same general programme. The same mingled spirit of hard work and of real fun. The same ever deepening purpose as the conference drew to a close. We all ate together—this being my first experience with wholly native food. The four days of curry and rice eaten native fashion, from plates of leaves while we sat squatted on the floor, were really enjoyable. Madras. After the Conference was over I spent about a week in Madras meeting some of the leaders in educational and other circles, getting a good deal of valuable information. I served as one of the officials in the Pachipays College (native) track games. Everything was run off very much as at home and many of the events were closely contested. Only instead of white armed athletes, there was always pro- truding from the seeming insecure Indian garments a con- siderable area of rich brown. In the Zoological laboratory of the Madras Christian Col- lege I found some original work carried on by the M.A. students; which was striking. it was pleasing to find that pamphlets and plates prepared by the Geographical and Survey Departments at Washington were proving of great value. The professor said, “Your Government is always very generous with its publications.” To see Hindus at work analyzing the character of sand after it had passed through the digestive processes of a fish would have been a trifie disconcerting to those who hold that the oriental mind limits itself to philosophy and contemplation. As Bishop Thoburn said at Toronto, the task in Africa is to create a language and then preach in it, while in India the task is to create a moral sense and then appeal to it. There is plenty of philosophy here, but precious little that helps a man up when he is down. As one Hindu said, “Ah yes, your Christian philosophy may not soar into quite such 27 lofty regions as our own, but somehow or other it makes a tempted man able to win victory and to replace impurity with decency.” In the reading and game room at the city branch at Alla- habad I got into a conversation with a high caste Hindu who had made a thorough study of Christianity and had come in contact with many Christian people. ‘J am thor- oughly convinced,” he said, ‘“ of the superiority of Chris- tianity, but I cannot become a Christian because it will mean loss of social position, rights of property and absolute ostracism from all my former friends.” At Cuttack I had a long conversation with a Brahmin who held a high po sition in connection with the Government. He prefaced his talk by saying, “Oh, we have heard of Harvard, for we delight to read the works of Emerson and Holmes and your other great Harvard men.” When asked why an educated and widely read man like himself still clung to the super- stitions of Hinduism he said, “If there would only come a union amongst Brahmins who would accept Christianity we would welcome the opportunity. But what can one man do? While I am convinced of its truth I cannot afford to take a step which will cut me off from everything that has made life worth while. Still, those of us who study your Scriptures, your literature and your history are forced to see in Christianity a power for progress, happi- ness and national prosperity, which is absent from our Indian systems. Some day you will see a mass movement amongst the people of the higher castes, and then, and not till then will India rise from her lethargy and become a nation of which the people may be proud.” May that time soon come, for one cannot stay long in the Fast without hoping that some day Christianity will reach all classes and find here an even more lofty expression than man has yet given it. Certain it is that the West will learn much from the Indian Christian in the generations to come —in gentleness and fineness of feeling and depth of re ligious emotion. Let the church at home still look upon Mission work as altruistic, but do not let it lose sight of the fact that some 28 day it will be a great gainer from the new life and thought that will be added to our religion as it finds expression in the thoroughly oriental temperament. April 21, I fringed the East coast once again on my way back to Calcutta. How I should have liked when I passed through Masulipatan to leave the train for a few hours and stroll down to the bay and catch even a tiny glimpse of the Mayflower, which history states lies wrecked at the bottom of the Bay of Bengal, not far away from this spot. What a contrast between India now and as the Mayflower found her! What an even greater contrast if the good ship were to be raised and could visit once more the land of her fame. With Sir Edwin Arnold [I would hope that the day may be hastened when the contact between the thought-life of Harvard and that of wealthy but poverty stricken India may be increased. Here endeth my first year’s work in India. The work in Burma is of such a different character and in a land of such great differences that accounts of it may well be Kept separate. Opportunities. In a letter dated at Dehra Dun, March 12, 1903, addressed to the Graduate Secretary of the Harvard Christian Asso- ciation, Carter says:— I should like to be able to recommend men for the fol- lowing positions: I. A man for electrical and mechanical engineering at Allahabad Christian College. Its principal is a Johns Hop- kins B.A., M.A. and Ph.D., and it has a bright future. Il. A man for the Gordon Mission College, Rawal Pindi, in the northern Punjab. This is a rather new institution, but is under the auspices of one of the most aggressive Mission Boards in India—the American United Presby- terian. I saw the Director General of Education for the Punjab, and he said that the Government approved thor- oughly of this college. Being near Kashmir and Afghanis- tan it draws from the frontier tribes,—brave and capable capable men. The man would be a teacher of English and English literature. III. A man to teach English and be sort of unofficial Christian Association Secretary at Ahmednuggar in West- ern India. He would be appointed by the American Board. This particular mission carries on a large industrial work that is the most successful in all India. IV. A man at the same mission with thorough technical training in several lines to assist in development of indus- trial work. A man with inventive faculty if possible. V. A man preterably with theological training to become sort of Bishop or pastor general for a colony of over 30,000 Syrian Christians in Travancore. No Missionaries are among them. They have no well-trained clergy of their own. VI. A man with a thorough knowledge of American Railroad Young Men’s Christian Association work to locate in Rawal Pindi and develop among railroad men a work 30 on the lines of the North Western Railroad—the railroad with greatest mileage in India. VII. A secretary for the Young Men’s Christian Asso- ciation at Lucknow. A large work can be done among European and Eurasian young men in this, the fifth city of India. The missionaries are earnest in their appeals for a man. There would also be opportunity for work among Indian college students. VIII. A secretary for the Young Men’s Christian Asso- ciation at Dacca, next to Calcutta the largest student centre - in Bengal—attractive because in a rather backward district, where students are not so corrupted by contact with EHuropeans and the cosmopolitan life of the large cities. IX. A man for the position of travelling secretary of the Associations in Burma. xX. A man to develop a Railroad Young Men’s Christian Association in Howrah, the great terminal for Calcutta. XI.