,4 X i-l+^'''^ Uv ' 'Jh> l'^ Y / SOUYEJ^IRS TRAVEL. MADAME OCTAVIA WALTOIf LE VERT. VOL I. MOBILE: S. H. GOETZEL AND COMPANY, No. 33 Dauphin Stuekt. New York: No. 117 Fulton Strket. 1857. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1S57, by S. II. GOETZEL & CO., In the Clerk's OfBce of the District Court for the Southern District of Alabama. Geo. E. Holt, Clerk. Sou. Dist. Alabama. JOHN F. TROW, B«ok and Job Brinter, 879 B'dway, N. Y. TO MY MOTHER, • THESE SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL, BY HER LOVING CHILD. PUBLISHEES' PREFACE. The materials of these volumes were not originally designed for publication. They consist chiefly of the private letters, journals, and sketches of a distinguished American lady, during two visits to Europe. Her social position at home, and an extensive acquaintance with the highest circles abroad, gave her familiar access to scenes and personages and conditions of life not ordinarily within the reach of the foreign traveller. The mystic veil which hides the penetralia of courtly and aristocratic society, was lifted for her eyes, and she was facilitated in her observations and experiences to a degree seldom awarded to an American before. With the readiest and keenest powers of percep- tion, with a mind fully informed historically as to all the localities she visited, with a wonderfully retentive memory, retaining all the sands of gold that filtrated through its stream, and with the most genial and appreciative sympathies for whatever is best and most beautiful in literature, art, and social intercourse, she combined advantages calculated to VI make her visits missions fruitful with facts and views of wide general interest and utility. Some of her letters to her friends, written during the hurry of travel, were yet so graphic and attractive that they were given to the press; and being reproduced all through the country, excited an almost universal desire for the publication of a full account of her travels. Those friends who were admitted to her intimacies at home, be- came aware what a rich mine of pleasing information, and interesting adventure, existed in the various memoranda she had made while in Europe. Their solicitations, and reiterated persuasions from literary friends in all parts of the Union, led to the preparation of this volume. The original journals and letters have been carefully revised by their author, additional memorials have been added, and many parts that in the original form necessarily partook largely of the personal and egotistic, have been omitted. This statement might suffice to introduce these Souve- nirs OF Travel to the world, but the Publishers deem it proper to add a few words as to the gifted and accomplished author. Madame Octavia "Walton Le Vert is perhaps more widely known, in a social way, than any other American lady. Born in Georgia, the grandchild of that Walton who was both sage and soldier in the Revolution, and whose name is immortal on the Chart of American Freedom, she had from her infancy the highest social and intellectual ad- vantages. Reared to womanhood at Pensacola, she received the most thorough instruction, and became fully versed not Vll only in her native tongue, but in the French, Spanish, and Italian languages, speaking and writing them with accuracy and elegance. The presence of the Navy officers at Peu- sacola gave a great charm to the society there, and under the most propitious auspices the young flower expanded to light and beauty. The gifts of personal loveli- ness were hers in a very high degree ; but her intellectual accomplishments, and the perpetual sunshine of a gay and joyous spirit, always amiable, kind, and considerate, gave to their possessor her chief charms. Visiting the principal cities of the Union, and the principal points of fashionable resort, Miss Walton became widely known, admired, and be- loved. At Washington City she was early honored by the warm friendship of Mr. Clay, which continued until his death, — an event that drew from his fair friend one of the most touching and eloquent tributes to his memory. Mr. Calhoun also was exceedingly kind to the " gifted daughter of the South," as he was pleased to call her, and particularly admired a series of sketches of distinguished Senators, Repre- sentatives, and Statesmen, whom she had met at the Federal Capital, — a work which we regret has never been published. The life of a lady is commonly a calm current of domestic duties and social benevolences. The author of these volumes became the wife of Dr. Henry S. Le Yert, a learned and emi- nent physician of Mobile, Alabama. A circle of beautiful children sprang up around them, and claimed the constant care and nurture of their mother. In the performance of this part has been one of the chief beauties of her life. At Vlll the same time, she has filled the highest social position, and dispensed the most enlarged hospitality. No stranger of distinction has visited Mobile for years, without seeking her acquaintance, and receiving the most cordial kindness. This has made her friends in every part of the world, and among the most influential personages. Lady Emeline Stuart "Wortley, a daughter of the Duke of Rutland, and of the household of Queen Victoria, and Frederika Bremer, the gifted novelist of Sweden, whose more than royal fame is everywhere acknowledged, thus became united in ties of the strongest personal friendship, baptized too, as it were, in tears of mutual sympathy and suffering at the time, with Madame Le Yert. These acquaintanceships were mainly influential in in- ducing the first visit of our fair countrywoman to Europe, and gave her that immediate entree into the highest society, whose experiences constitute the chief specialty of her Souvenirs. Of the intrinsic characteristics of the present volume, the publishers will not particularly speak. The book, they think, will be found fully worthy of the high fame of the author. Upon her part, it is given to the public with the most shrink- ing reluctance. She does not aspire to the laurels of author- ship, but only desires to impart to others the pleasure re- ceived from wandering amid the storied scenes of the Old World, and holding social communion with personages whose names arc " whispered by the lips of fame." Few itineraries, however, will be found so full of valuable information, so PUBLISHERS PREFACE. IX rich in brilliant descriptions, and so picturesque and glowing in style and arrangement of particulars. This will make the book invaluable to all of our citizens who may visit Europe, and wish to have an intelligent guide and companion in their travels. One pervading charm they will find in these volumes, that will stir and keep fresh their own patriotism, — that in all her wanderings, whether at the refined court of St. James in the imperial presence of Louis Napoleon, or under the consecrated tapestries of the Papal palace, our accomplished countrywoman was ever staunchly true to her republican lineage, and came back home American in heart and mind. With these thoughts as to the book and its author, the publishers respectfully submit it to the reader, confident that they have made a valuable contribution to a most interesting branch of the rising literature of our country. Mobile, July^ 185T. ERRATA. Vol. I. Page 2d, 5th line from bottom, for ^'Sovereign" read " Sovereigns." " Page 3d, 11th line, for " sung" read '^sunk." " Page 38, llth line, for " SC Peter read " Sir'' Peter. * Page 21Y, 4tli line from bottom, lor "Fesckier" read " Peschiera.'* " Page 330, 8th f line from bottom, ' for '' Lucar" read " Lucas:' CONTENTS. CHAPTEPw I. PAGE Departure from New York — Alabama — Concert — Arrival at Liverpool — The Adelphi — Drive through the City— The Docks— Policemen . . 1 CHAPTER II. Leave Liverpool for Loudon — Railway Comforts — London — The Street- S weeper— Matinee Dansante— Bosio and Gardoni — Rachel — Haymarket Theatre — The Parks— Westminster Abbey— Shakspeare's Monument — Tombs of Milton, Sheridan, and others — Monument to Andre — Tombs of the Queens — Palace of Westminster — Lord Campbell 7 CHAPTER IIL British Museum— Horticultural Exposition— Mrs. Crosland— Grace Green- wood — Streets of London — Hyde Park— Statue of Achilles — English Horsewomen— Fanny Haworth— House of Peers— Italian Opera— Covent Garden— The Rutland Family— Lord and Lady John Manners — The Misses Pyne and Mr. Harrison 13 CHAPTER IV. Prince Czarstorisky — ^Lord and Lady Wharncliffe— The Star Family— The American Minister 26 CHAPTER V. Queen Victoria's Ball at Buckingham Palace— Entrance of the Queen — Ap- pearance of the Qucpn — Prince Albert — King and Quetii of Hanover — Count and Countess Walewski— The Presentation— The Duchess of Suth- erland — Duke of Wellington— Her Majesty in the Dance — Sculpture and Picture Galleries— Etiquette on leaving the Palace— A Picture in Me- mory 81 CHAPTER VI. The Church of the Crusaders— Fourth of July— Tower of London— Queen Elizabeth's Armory — Dungeon of Sir Walter Raleigh — The Regalia of England— Traitor's Gate— Thames Tunnel- Cost of the Tunnel— Madame XU CONTENTS. PAGE Celeste — Studios of "Westmncott and Marochettl— Spirit Rapplngs— House of Commons— D'Israeli and Lord John Kussell— The "Women listen behind the Scenes — A true English Home— Dr. Bowring — The Dinners in Lon- don—English Racing Game 40 CHAPTER VIL Picture-Gallery at Grosvenor House— Greenwich— Black Heath— Sir Henry Bishop— The poet Freiligrath — Moonlight and Midnight— Stafford House — Picture-Gallery — The Duchess a Favorite with the Queen — Poverty and Plenty— Mr. Ingersoll—Rossiter— Floral F^te— Sudden Shower— St. Paul's Cathedral— Noble Monuments— Princess's Theatre — Byron's Sardanapalus 51 CHAPTER VIIL Lady Emmeline "Wortley- Friendly Tributes 62 CHAPTER IX- Windsor Castle— Cenotaph of Princess Charlotte — Grisi — The new Opera, Ri- goletto — Gobelin Tapestry — Private Apartments of the Queen — Her Ma- jesty's Kitchen and Stables — Gray's Elegy— Mary Howitt— Kossuth — Lady Morgan — Lady Clementina Villars 64 CHAPTER X. Belvoir Castle— Entrance to the Castle — Reception-Room— The Drawing- Rooms, Library, and Ball-Room—Picture-Galleries— Apartments of the Queen— Woodstock— Apartments of the Duchess of Rutland— Mausoleum of the Duchess — Letters from Homo 72 CHAPTER XL Distingnishcd Writers- Foreign Ministers and other Celebrities— Egyptian Hall— Farewell to London 78 CHAPTER XIL Paris— Steamer Incident— Arrival at Paris— Petra Camera— Railway to Ver- sailles — Tale of the Ravine — The Palace — Basins of Neptune and Apollo — The Great Waters play — Interior of the Palace — Paintings and Statuary — Marie Antoinette— Portrait of Washington— Statue of Jean d'Arc— Re- turn to Paris — Boulevards — Church of La Madeleine— Group by Marochctti 82 CHAPTER XIII. Opera Comique— Gardens of the Tuileries— Place de la Concorde— Champs Elysees— Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile— Chapel of St. Ferdinand— Death of Duke of Orleans— Exhilarating Air of Paris — The Louvre— The Conception by Murillo — Grand Gallery— Daughter of Baron Gros— Interesting Relics — Imperial Museum— Improvements in Paris— Palais Royal— Galleries roofed with Gla.s3 94 CHAPTER XIV. Cathedralo de Notre Dame — Place of Coronation — Hotel Dieu— The fearful Morgue— Hall aux Vlns— Menagerie— Botnnical ^inrdi-n.— Winter Oiinh-n CONTENTS. Xlll PAGE —Tomb of Ab61ard and H6loise— Nameless Monument— Child's Grave- Voices from the Past— Museum of Natural Antiquities— Stockbrokers' and Merchants' Exchange CHAPTER XV. Palace of the Luxembourg— Historical Memories— Hotel de Ville— Flower Market — Opera — Gallery of Louis Philippe— Hotel des Invalides — Tomb of Napoleon— Place de la Bastile— St. Cloud— Champs Elysees— Shadows in the Sunlight 11-1 CHAPTER XVL Leave Paris— Brussels— Walk about the City— Importunate Beggars and Guides— Field of Waterloo — Church of St. Gudule— Manufactory of Lace — Alice Verte— Tomb of Malibran— Birthplace of Charlemagne— Shrine oi the Magi— Cologne Water of Jean Farina 12-2 CHAPTER XVII. The Rhine— Legend of the Island Convent— Ehrenbrietstien— Picturesque Ruins— Castle of Stolzenfels— Cat and Mouse Castles— Old Ruin of Rhien- fels— Seven Petrified Maidens— Altar of Bacchus— The Rhine Valley- Town of Bingen— " Bingen on the Rhine "—Legend of the Fair Gisela— Birthplace of Guttemberg— Adieu to the Rhine 130 CHAPTER XVIII. Castle of Heidelberg— Female Peasantry— Baden Baden— Gaming Tables- Russian Princess— The Young and Fair among the Gamesters— Gaming- Table Horrors— The Trinkhalle— Mummy Gamester— Gaming a Passion with the Germans— Strasbourg— Astronomical Clock— Basle, Switzerland —View from Mount Chinchona— Old Man of the Tower— Battle-Field of St Jacob — Seatsfield— Home Letters 141 CHAPTER XIX. Paris— The Italian Singer— Grand Review— The Empress— The Emperor- Preparations for the Fete of Napoleon — Festivities— Illuminations — Impe- rial Crown— The little Illuminator— Fireworks — Apotheosis of Napoleon — Fontainebleau— Forest— Palace— Hermitage of Franchard— Reminiscences of Napoleon 154 CHAPTER XX. Dijon— Impatient and Pompous Guard— Jura Mountains — The Ascent — View from the Summit— Mont Blanc— Lake Leman 165 CHAPTER XXL Monument of Rousseau— Calvin— John Knox— Burial-place of Calvin— Iron Saucepan— Model of Mont Blanc— The Junction— Ferney— Sad Accident — The Blue Rhone— Scenes upon the Lake— Cathedral— Alpine Storm— Hur- XIV CONTENTS. PAGE ried Departure— Sea-Sickness on Lake Leman— Eousscau's Opinion of Ve- vay — Clarenz— Montreux — Ascent and Descent of the Towers— Kelease of Bonnivard — His Dungeon — View from the Apertures — Footjjrints — Tlie Skeptical Englishman — Courteous People — View from Clarenz — Drive along the Slopes of Lake Leman— Tradition of the Bridge of St Maurice —The Cretins— The Goitres— Bricg 171 CHAPTER XXII. £oad across the Simplon Mountain — Ascent— View from the first Post-House — Glaciers — Glacier Galleries — View from tlie Precipice — Culminating Point of the Eoad— Dogs of Great St. Bernard— Houses of Eefuge — A Friend on the Summit of the Simplon — Gorge of Gondo — Frascinnone Waterfall— Grand Melodies— Inn of Isella— Traces of the Storm of 1839 186 CHAPTEE XXIII. Val d'Ossolo— Beggary a Profession — A last Look— Lazzaroni- Hotel de Ville —Distance lends Enchantment— Beggars— Handl ess and Footless Btggar- Boy— The Women and Horses— Babies done up in Bales— Maggiore— View from the Shore- The old Temple— Isola Bella— Palace of the Count Bor- romeo— Grottoes— Terrace— Isola Madre— Gardens— The Laurel Tree— Lavono— Drive to Como— Lake of Como— Views Afloat— Communicative Boatmen— Taglioni and her Daughters— Pasta's Villa— Bed-chamber— The Grounds and Gardens— Pasta's Bower— Pliniana— Villa Mombollo . 194 CHAPTER XXIV. Como— Milan— Origin of the word " Milliner"— People of Milan— Cathedral of Milan— Exterior—Interior—Tomb of San Carlo Borromeo— " Last Supper"' by Leonardo da Vinci— La Brcra— Paintings and Sculpture — Castcl Barco — Imperial Palace — Interior of La Scala — The Dancers — Appropriate Bas Eelief— The Corso — Pleasant Drive— View from* the Cathedral— High Mass — Leave Milan — Annoying Postillion — Italy chafes in her Boudage- Pischicra— Austrian Soldiers 207 CHAPTEE XXV. Verona — Tomb of Juliet — Eoman Amphitheatre — San Zenone — Paul Veronese — Vicenza — Padua the Powerful — Cafe Pedrocchi — Paduan Celebrities — Church of San Antonio — The Eailway — Beautiful Vineyards — Place of the Siege — Scene at the Custom House — The name "America " a spell — Gon- dolas—Canal Streets— Palaces — Palatial Hotel— Serenade .... 218 CHAPTEE XXVI. Venice — Cathedral of San Marco — Interior Decorations— Grand Altar— Tower of the (Mock — Piazza di San Marco — Sacred Pigeons — Ducal Palace — Stat- ues — Pictures — Hall of tlie Great Council — Tintoretto— Paintings — Eape of Kiinipa-Mu.soum — Chamber of the Council of Tun — Bridge of Sighs — CONTENTS. XV PAGE Academia— Titian— Goethe's Theory— Opera of " Attila the Hun "—Palace of Foscavi- Byron's Tragedy — Byron's Eooin at Mocenigo Palace— Bridge of the Eialto— Sketch of the Duke de Barri— Manfrini Palace— Portraits— Palazzo Trevisano—Bianca— Flight of Bianca and Pictro— Nuptials of Bi- anca and Francisco— Death of Bianca by poison— Motley Group— Perfect Locomotion— Our Gondola and our Gondolier — Music on the Lagunes — Augustino— The one Ornament of the Gondola— The City reflected— Night View of Piazza San Marco— The Venetians- Silence of the Streets — Foun- dation and Early Days of Venice— Luminous Names in Venetian History 228 CHAPTEE XXVIL Churches of Venice — Church of Santissimo Eedentore — Paul Veronese sleeps among the "Works of his Genius — Brides of Venice — Venice in her Prime — Courtesy of the Priests— Church of Santa Maria dei Frari— Monuments of Titian and Canova; of the Doges Foscari and Nicolo Tron; of the Doge Pesaro — Houses of Distinguished Men— Armenian Convent — Mad-House — Arsenal— Blind Dandolo— Wedding the Adriatic — Dante's Genius— Monu- ment of Angelo Emo — Last Evening in Venice— Voyage around the City 249 CHAPTEE XXVIII. Departure ft-om Venice— Colt's Eevolver— Scenes by the "Way- Eocco d'Anfo — Isco— Lovere — Different Dialects — Malatia— Bergamo— Milan— Binasco — Eice Plantations— Malaria— Certosa of Pavia — University of Pa\ia— Val- leys of Vines — Field of Marengo — Power of Napoleon's Will — Sardinian Officers — Alessandria — The Apennines — First View of the Mediterranean Sea— Enter Genoa— Prospect from the Hotel Tower — Breakfast— Apples of Love — Sunset Walk — Narrow Streets — Promenade of Genoa — Graceful Head-dress — Lost in the Narrow Streets — Sailor Guide — Church of the An- nunciation—Denied admittance to the Chapel of St. John the Baptist — Pal- aces — Terraces — Beggar of the Wooden Bowl — Ascension Chairs — Palazzo Doria— Andrea Doria— Monument of Columbus— Port of Genoa— Street of the Jewellers— Departure from Genoa^Sunset at Sea .... 269 CHAPTEE XXIX. Marseilles— Shores of the Mediterranean — Avignon — The Old Friar— Sister of Charity — The Ehone — Miserable Cabin of the Steamer — Lyons — " Lady of Lyons"— Views on the Saone — Paris— Eeturn to England— Voyage Home 277 CHAPTEE XXX. Second Tour- Departure from New Orleans— Arrival at Havana— Hotel Cu- bano— Drive on the Squares— The Volantes— A Cuban Custom— Fine At- mosphere-Tropical Storm- Streets— Houses— Deliciously Lazy Women —Cuban Men— A Drive— The Palm Tree— Delightful Air of the Tropics- Sidney Smith— Plaza de Armas— Walk by Moonlight— Sefior Navarro— Tacon Theatre— Senoritas in the Boxes— La Fiorentini— Dominica's— A XVI CONTENTS. PAGB "Norther "—Visit from the Consul — Evening at the Palace— Gen. Concha —The "Norther" at work with the Waves— The British Fleet— Bishop's Garden — Bamboo Cane — Cucuyos — The Corso — Dr. Lc Eivereud — Garden — Grottoes and Arbors 287 CHAPTEE XXXI. City of Jlavana— The Prison— The Blood-Stained Beach— Cathedral contain- ing the Ashes of Columbus — Evening Party of the British Consul — Jolly Clergymen — A Sweet Child of Song — Dr. Scherzer's Keminiscences of Ilayti— Drive .in a Yolante — The Guagiros— Service on the Flag-ship of the Admiral— Kow around the Harbor 301 CHAPTER XXXII. The Bnll-Fight — Eny Gomez, the Matador— Eevolting Spectacle— A happy People— The Opera— Arrival of the " Fernando el Catolico " — Spanish Sol- diers— Yomito 308 CHAPTEE XXXIII. The Palace Ball— Concert in the Open Air- Fish Market 813 CHAPTEE XXXIV. Moro Castle — Splendid Ball at the House of the British Consul — Invalids — A Fair Child of the North— Eeview of the Troops— Gala Night at the Tacon — Adieus 815 CHAPTEE XXXV. Departure from Havana— The Steamer and the Passengers— The Cuban Girl, Dolores— Sense of Security— Courtesy of the Officers— Evenings in the Saloon — Sunrise on the Atlantic— Land— Meetings and Greetings— Poor Dolores !— Leave the Steamer with Eegret— Arrival at Cadiz— Aspect of the City— Brief Historical Sketch— Eamparts-Tlre Gaditanas— The Dark- eyed Maid of Cadiz- -Last Painting of Murillo— Theatre— Love-Dance— Graceful Carriage of the Gaditanas — Points of interest about Cadiz — View from the Steamer— Atalayas— The Convent— The Pines—" Fidelity "— Orange and Olive Groves— Las Dolicias— Pleasant "Welcome from the People 819 CHAPTER XXXVL Sovilla- The Great Altiir— Murillo's Tribute— Treasures of the Custodia— Columbus' Letters— Ascent of the Tower— Giralda— View from the Tower —The Acazar— Peter the Cruel— Blanche of Castile— Gardens— Moorish Temples— Grottoes— Imposing Orange Tree— House of Pontius Pilate — Pictures for the Paris Exposition — Houses of So villa — Birtliplace of Murillo —His Pictures of the Virgin— House and Tablet of Murillo— The Gipsies- Beautiful Gipsy Girl — The Tobacco Workers— Drives around Sevilhi— Quemadcro— Beggars — Negro without Hands— Departure from Sovilla. 8-"J4 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL CHAPTER I. It was just twelve o'clock, June 11th, 1853, when the great gun of the Atlantic sounded forth its farewell to America. The wharves and shipping around were thronged with a dense mass of human beings, whose loud cheers answered the cannon's roar. Many were the kind faces beaming with friendship upon us as the noble ship gracefully passed from her moorings. There was no sadness in their glances, and my own heart bounded with joy, as the shores of the beauti- ful bay melted into distance. The dream of my life had been to visit Europe, and now the great white wings of the Atlantic, aided by the Magician of the Nineteenth Century, mighty steam, was about to real- ize my brightest hopes. My emotions were full of radiant delight, as bright and sparkling as the myriad diamond drops which fell in showers from the swift-moving wheels of the glorious steamer. There were more than two hundred passengers, and never was assembled a more merry, gonial, agreeable set of persons. Vol. T.— 1 Z SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. All portions of the world seemed represented, (save China.) There were Frenchmen, Germans, Englishmen, Spaniards, and Norwegians — Chilians from the silver mines — Peruvians from near the equator — Cubans from the " Gem of the An- tilles " — Califoruians, hastening to the Old World, to -pur- chase with their gold recompense for many a privation ; also an Australian, who had been among the first to dig the precious metal in that far-away land. There were blooming English and lovely American women ; statesmen, judges, generals, and orators, poets, artists, and musicians. A spirit of kindness and cordiality encircled us, and each one appeared earnest for the other's happiness. For two days, life was an enchantment ; but upon the third day I was seized by that demon of the ocean ^ (in com- mon parlance, sea-sickness,) and so tightly did he grasp me, that for several days I lay still and death-like. However, the " indomitable will " of ray nature would be no longer controlled, and then came on a fierce struggle between us. I would not yield, though my anguish was inexpressible. Each day I ascended the deck, in spite of the icy coldness of the wind, which betokened our near approacli to the icebergs. My good friends, after bringing me on deck, would wrap me up, like an Egyptian mummy, in bufi"alo robes, California blankets, and Mexican ponchos. In truth, none of the mum- mies of old had more valuable enwrapments. Sometime's we enjoyed the luxury of a great buffiilo robe, brought from Chicago by a gentleman en route for England, and intended as a present to Queen Victoria. Very gallantly he permitted the " sovereign " of his own country to make it a resting- place. To cheer the long hours, I often told them Indian legends, and one of the " Alabama •' (signifying " here we rest " ) pleased the group so much, that whenever I came on deck they would seize the magnificent robe, and casting it OS) CONCERT. 3 down would cry out, " Come, dear madam, here is your Alabama." Sweet are the memories of those pleasant days, when kindness and gentle words even cheated sea-sickness of half its horrors. The captain, with his broad, stalwart form, and benevolent smile, was often near to cheer us with the hope of a speedy arrival. The weather, although cold was delightful; the winds fair as the first dream of love. But about mid-ocean we encountered a terrific swell from the north. There had doubtless been a great storm in the icy regions, and the stubborn heart of the mighty deep was still agitated. Would to heaven it had sung to quietude ere we came along, for it rendered me intolerably ill, and the demon and I battled again for many a day. Braham, the excellent English singer, and Dodworth, the admirable cornet a piston player, gave us a concert one night for the benefit of the Sailors* Home on Staten Island. After some delightful music, the Star Spangled Banner was sung, in which all the audience joined, making a most charming finale to the entertainment. On the ninth day, as I lay, miserably ill, on the deck, the officer cried out, " Land ! land ! " Oh, joyful sound ! giving life and hope. None of Sontag's sweetest tones could equal the exquisite thrill that one word produced upon me. The mountains of Ireland were soon visible, and the " Fast- ness Rock " in the ocean. This contains a light-house, which is tenanted by one man. It is three miles from the* main- land, and is a lonely spot. The next day we were in sight of Wales, and soon of Holyhead — a high, bold, desolate-looking rock, with a white light-house upon it. The shore was barren and cheerless, without a single tree, until we entered the Mersey ; then the shores were green and lovely, and I felt we were indeed in " merrie England." 4 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. As we approached Liverpool, a thick mist gathered around us, veiling the landscape. Within the steamer all was confusion and preparation for landing. On all sides were the inquiries — " Can I take my baggage ? " *' Are the officers very strict in their search ? " It was quite dark when we descended the ladder of the Atlantic, and entered the little steam-tug — a frightful, black, gopher-looking vessel. There we stood, until 215 passen- gers came down the narrow way. We scarcely had standing room, and even I confessed it was amazingly unpleasant. But I had resolved not to permit any of the small ills of life to annoy me ; hence I only laughed at them, and sprang mer- rily ashore. At last I was in England ! Even the most unenthusias- tic must feel a wild bounding of the heart when they first touch the shores of Mother-Land. As for me, joy, radiant joy, filled my soul, and I could have thrown myself on my knees and kissed the earth — the home of my ancestors — the glorious land which holds forth its hands in love and sympa- thy to its children, far over the vast Atlantic. The illuminated clock of one of the churches marked the hour of eleven, as we drove to the Adelphi, first stopping at the Custom- House, where the trunks were opened and closed, (at least ours were.) A southern planter was not so lucky. He had " seven beautiful plugs " of tobacco taken from him, as he refused to pay seven dollars duty upon them. At the hotel the waiter called out, " Fine rooms ! excel- lent rooms ! " When I entered them T thought — " I will take mine ease at mine inn ; " but alas for this hope of com- fort ! Never did we see more miserable, dingy, dark rooms. " English comfort " — the boast of the Anglo-Saxons over the whole world — seemed to me but a fiction, if this were an DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY. earnest of it. Visions of the palace-like St. Nicholas came to us, as we looked upon the quaint, old, queer furniture — the narrow beds and time-worn carpets. However, we were very weary, and soon sought forgetfulness in sleep ; and in the " dream-land " I was soon with those dear ones in my home by the Mexican Gulf Liverpool^ June 22d. — " I am at last in England ! " was my first exclamation, as I sprang from my narrow bed, and drew aside the curtain. It was a bright morning, and already the street was thronged with people. I hurriedly dressed, that I might go out and breathe freely the English air, though somewhat tainted by coal-smoke. But the enthu- siasm of the last night was yet with me, and delightful mem- ories filled my mind, of this land so famed in " song and story." Liverpool is a bustling, busy city, of near 400,000 inhab- itants. It covers a large space of ground, and its streets are as wandering and winding as those of Boston. During our drive, we visited many of the public buildings, which are really splendid. The St. George's Hall is a mag- nificent edifice ; likewise the Exchange, Custom-House, and Sailors' Home. We saw the statue of Lord Nelson, and that of Huskisson. But the miracles of Liverpool are the docks. These are of wondrous extent — at least five or six miles along the shores of the Mersey. The tide rises from twelve to thirty feet ; hence ships are compelled to be placed in the docks, or else to lie far out in the " offing." There appeared to be vessels from all the nations of the earth, indicated by their flags, and destined to all ports, from the sailing-boards hung out upon them. The hum of commerce, and the eager rushing to and fro of hundreds of laborers, gave token that Liverpool is indeed the great emporium of the English world. 6 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. The Princess Park is filled with trees and flowering shrubs. There were many beautiful azalias, and the golden laburnum, the California of flowers, and the broom, and snowball. Around Liverpool are numerous elegant country seats. The rich people fly the misery and toil and struggle of the city life, for the bright green fields of the country. At every turn we met policemen, those polite " guardians of the law." We could but think, how wicked the people must be to require such a surveillance by night and day. Save in the Havanas, I had never seen a watchfulness like this. There the thickset Spanish soldier is encountered in every street. • Our delightful evening ended by a long drive amid the environs of Liverpool. CHAPTER II. At ten o'clock we left Liverpool, and, after passing through a dark tunnel, emerged into a beautiful country. It was like a grand mosaic, or like one of those exquisite quilts of my- riad pieces, made by the dear hands of my aged grand- mother. Each field was encircled by a well-cut hedge, and trees planted on the hill-tops. The narrow winding roads were also shaded by them, in rows on either side, form- ing a sweet, quiet walk. The country was entirely culti- vated, even to the slip of ground along the railway. The fields were brightly green, intermingled with white, red, and yellow flowers. The ground, in a state of preparation for planting, seems to have been pulverized by some machine ; it looks as smooth as brown ochre. The railway does not pass through the great towns, but only near them. At the different stations are refreshment- houses, but only three minutes allowed for stopping. The day was delightful. The sky of pale blue, with a few fleecy clouds to shade us from the sun. The air was pure, fresh, and life-giving. The calm, quiet beauty of the scenery realized precisely the descriptions of rural England, so sweetly and truthfully portrayed by Chaucer, by Spenser, and by Wordsworth. 8 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. We looked upon the thatched cottage, half covered with rose-vines in full blossom, — the fields of new-cut hay, where the women and children were tossing it into great high- wheeled carts, — the far-off castle with turrets, — the little lakes, where the cows calmly stood in the placid waters, — the myriad sheep upon the hills, — the stalwart peasants at their daily toil; and they seemed pictures we had looked upon in some other period of existence, all were so familiar to our eyes. The railway carriages are entirely comfortable, each con- taining six persons. Then the delightful security which is felt during the journey. Within sight of each other, stand men with flags, which are unfurled to signify danger or safety. If it be the red, some obstacle exists ; if the white, nought impedes the onward progress. From Liverpool to London, it was like a swift-unfolding panorama, constantly revealing new beauties to the eye. Perfectly was I repaid for all the discomforts of the voyage by this day of new and joyous existence. By the increased speed we found we were approaching London, and soon reached the station. There was no bustle or confusion. A cab was quietly called, and we drove into mighty London. Words cannot even give a shadow of the emotions which thrilled me as I passed along. All the romances, all the histories I had ever read, crowded upon my memory, and I felt like one wandering in dreams conjured up by wild ima- gination. After driving to several hotels, we came to Fenton's, St. James's street, one of the most fashionable hotels of London. We have a charming parlor on the street, with a balcony, where I am now seated, writing, or, rather, I am striving to write, for the animated scene calls away my attention every moment. THE STREET-SWEEPER. 9 It is just seven o'clock. The sun is high in the heavens. Multitudes of carriages are dashing by, with servants in gorgeous liveries, with knee-breeches, velvet coats, and pow- dered wigs. The. ladies, en grande toilette, are reclining in their elegant equipages, which are all of the barouche form, thus displaying the superb dresses. On the front seat is often a dainty little lap-dog, quietly gazing out upon the two liveried footmen, who stand behind the carriages, hold- ing on to the long tassels. To-day the Queen held her drawing-room ; hence the unu- sual display of splendor in the costumes of the fair occupants of these carriages. In front of me, at the crossing of the street, stands an old woman, with snow-white hair ; in her hands she has an ancient-looking broom, with which she " sweeps the cross- ing," and puts forth her hand for charity. No one gives her any— yes ! one person has dropped a copper in her hand. There seems a spell about some objects ; for, though my eyes are enchanted by the gay and gorgeous scene, they irresisti- bly wander back to the old woman. It is another revelation of London life. Wealth and luxury dash proudly by, while poverty holds out its hands for the charity which does^ not come. A sad, sad feeling stole over me, and involuntarily I exclaimed, " Thank God, I have never seen this in my own country ! " Ni^ht has come at last. It is not darkness, but a sott, gray twilight. I must lay aside my pen. My eyes are wearied with the many objects which have passed before them this long, long day of June. June 2m.— Vie dispatched all our letters ere we slept last nic^ht. This morning brought us many visitors ; among them, one valued and dear friend, who had known me in the bright days of my life. He came with genial, cordial words, Vol. I.— 1* 10 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. to welcome me to his Dative land. How like sweet sunlight it was to be greeted thus ! All to whom we sent letters came at once. They did not meet us, as though we were strangers. • They received us like friends, and they invited us to their homes with a warm, frank manner, enchanting in its perfect sincerity. A beautiful and noble lady, to whom these kind friends had mentioned my arrival, sent me an invitation to a " Mati- nee dansante." At three o'clock I made a carriage toilette, and drove with them to her mansion, near one of the splen- did parks of London. The house was magnificent. Every window was filled with rare plants and flowers. Four rooms were opened for dancing, and in the fifth there was a concert, where Bosio and Gardoni sang. As Bosio made her first reputation in America, she was to me particularly inter- esting. She is a slight, delicate-looking woman. Her voice is of pure and delightful quality, and her vocalization perfect. Gardoni is exceedingly handsome, and very young. His voice is soft and velvet-like. It falls upon the ear " As gently as snow upon the sea, And sinks into the heart as instantly." It must have been a great effort to sing in the full light of day, before a wondrously cold audience. The orchestra was admirable, and the polkas, redowas, and scliottisches, were danced with infinite spirit, though the ladies were in bonnets and mantillas. The style of danc- ing was rather different from ours. It was not so affection- ate, neither did the lady's head so gently recline upon her chevalier's shoulder, as it is wont to do in the New World. There were many people of the aristocracy present, and a distinguished general who served with Wellington at Water- loo. A sum])tueus breakfast ended the festivities of '' the RACIIEI.. 11 morning." "We drove through Hyde Park, and reached Fenton's just in time for the French play at St. James's Theatre. June 2^th. — Last night we were at the St. James's Theatre, and saw Kachel. How wonderful is her acting ! She is not beautiful in form or face, yet the grace — the swaying motion of her limbs, is as naturally elegant as the waving of the palm trees of Cuba. She does not appear to make, the slightest effort in acting. The tones of her voice are exquisitely musical, and the utterance of one word seemed the revelation of the whole scene. By the movement of her hand she impressed me as much as though she had de- claimed for one hour. The St. James's is an exceedingly small theatre, dark and disagreeable. There is no dress-circle, as two ranges are occupied by the private boxes of the nobility. Only in the upper tiers and in the parquette can seats be obtained by strangers. The boxes were all hung with dark crimson, and the gas-lights were very dim. There was no orchestra. Rachel does not permit the distraction of music during her performances. The audience were quite undemonstrative. It was only at the end of the tragedy, they, gave evidence of their appreciation. Since our first coming to England the weather has been delightful, but to-day the rain falls rapidly. In spite of this the splendid carriages dash by, and the old woman still sweeps the crossing. She has only received one copper during the long morning. June 2Qth. — We have just returned from the Hay- market, where we saw Buckstone's Travestie of Albert Smith's " Ascent of Mont Blanc." It is a most mirth-ex- citing piece, and is styled, " The Ascent to Mount Par- 12 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. Mrs. Fitzwilliams as " Fortune " was admirable. After- wards came a bagatelle from the pen of Howard Paul, the " Spirit Rappings," in which Mrs. Fitzwilliams played the part of the Yankee girl, " Misery Ann Mawkins." Her acting was very funny and piquant. How well Mrs. Barney Williams would appear in this character. The Haymarket is neither an elegant nor handsome theatre. The deep red hangings of the boxes give a dismal aspect to the whole house. Sunday. — We \'isited this morning one of the fashionable churches, where we have seen the nobility at their devo- tions. I remarked a duchess kneeling before me. Upon entering she was attended by three liveried servants ; one carried her Prayer Book, another a cushion upon which she knelt, and the third held open the pew-door. Nothing strikes an American more forcibly upon first arriving in England, than the humility, and the absolute reverence of servants for their masters, whom they evidently regard as beings almost of worship. The church was a handsome edifice, the sermon excellent, and the music charming, consisting of the most delightful melodies of the opera, adapted to the chants and hymns. London far surpasses all my anticipations. It is much more beautiful, more neat, and more quiet than I had pic- tured it. The parks are matchless in their freshness and in their extent. AVhat blessings they are ! They have been filled all the day with crowds of happy children rolling on the grass, while the old people sat calmly under the shade of the trees, watching them. Whole families were there, from the aged grandmother, to the infant of a few weeks of life. Gorgeous carriages passed by, and the family all looked upon them with a smile of pleasure. No glance of envy followed these favored ones of fortune. The lower classes seem to WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 13 have a pride in their aristocracy, and no regretful yearnings are awakened by these displays of magnificence. June 2 8/;^.— This morning we wandered for hours amid the venerable arches of Westminster Abbey, and lingered reverentially by the tombs of the illustrious dead. A flood of emotions poured over my heart no words of any living lan- guage can describe. These wondrous men of mind appeared to hold me spell-bound by their glorious memories. The architecture of the abbey is magnificent. The vast edifice is in the form of a cross, and was built, it is supposed, by Sebat, King of the East Saxons, in 616, enlarged by Edward the Confessor, and almost rebuilt by Henry III., and his son, Edward I. Nearly all the kings and queens are buried here, and also in this grand old abbey have they all been crowned. . At mid-day the sunlight, streaming through the magni- ficent stained-glass windows, was beautiful. The solemn aisles and the carved ceilings were glowing with the radiance of the rainbow-like light. I soon sought the " Poet's Corner," in the south transept. It contains th°e tombs of the greatest poets, or their menu- ments. As may be well imagined, Shakspeare's monument first claimed my attention. His ashes have never been dis- turbed from their resting-place in the quiet old church, by the " gently flowing Avon." When Pope was asked to write an epitaph, he exclaimed, " I cannot praise Shaks- peare, take his own words." Thus, his own fingers penned his epitaph : " The cloud-capped towers, the gorgeous palaces, The solemn temples, the great globe itself, Yea, all which it inherits shall dissolve, And, like the baseless fabric of a vision, Leave not a wreck behind." 14 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVKL. Until the " great globe'' dissolves, the fame and name of Shakspeare will thrill every human heart in which flows one drop of Anglo-Saxon blood. With mute reverence I stood before his monument, and no longer wondered at the adoration of the Ivomi^h Church for the tombs of their saints. This great poet of nature — this great magician of language, had been to me almost as a house- hold divinity. For some time I thought but of him. His genius still seemed to sway the pulses of my soul, and it was an effort to turn my thoughts to other objects. Near his monument is one of Jonson. His epitaph is by Shakspeare — " rare Ben Jonson ! " He was Shakspeare's fast friend — his companion in scenes of merriment. Jonson's lines upon Shakspeare are admirably true : " Thou art a monument, without a tomb ; And art alive still, while thy book doth live, And we have wits to read, and praise to give." The tomb of Milton is near by the monument of Chaucer. Then comes a tablet to Butler, the author of " Hudibras.'' He has a place among kings, though left in life to misery and want. It was wise in the Lord Mayor of London to place upon the stone this inscription, as his reason for so doing : " That he, who was destitute of all things when alive, might not want a monument when dead." Near the tablet to Butler is a beautiful tomb to Edmund Spenser, author of the " Faerie Queene," and not far oft' is one to the memory of John Gay ; the epitaph written by himself : " Life is a jest, and all things show it, — I thought 80 once, and now I know it." TOMBS OF GAY, THOMSON, AND OTHERS. 15 1 passed on to the tomb of Thomson, author of " The Seasons," to that of Gray, of Goldsmith, of Addison, of Sheridan, the noble orator and sparkling wit, who entranced a whole nation by his genius, while he captivated their hearts by his nobleness of character. Alas ! how sad was his end ! The monument to Handel is fine, also that to the " mem- ory of David Garrick," and there is a splendid one to Sir Isaac Newton. Then came the monuments to the great statesmen, William Pitt, Fox, Grattan, Canning, and the Earl of Chatham. Long did I linger by that tomh, recalling his words uttered in the House of Lords, with all the impas- sioned eloquence of truth, and the inspiration of prophecy : " You cannot conquer America." Is there an American heart that does not quiver with feeling, when the re- membrance of these words comes to it — when standing by the tomb of this great man, who so nobly sympathized with our people in their struggle for independence ? And near at hand is the monument to John Andre. It was erected by George III. The inscription tells the story of his mournful fate. In one hand is the letter to Washing- ton, asking to be shot, in place of being hanged. In the south aisle is the chapel of Henry VIII. The knights of the Order of the Garter, and those of Bath, were installed in this chapel. Above their seats are hanging their swords and shields, and their faded banners droop over them. The coronation chairs are also here. In one of them* is fastened the famous " xS'i^owe of Scon e,''^ on which all the Scottish kings were crowned. Edward I. possessed himself of it, as a token of his conquest of Scotland. It is a red stone about two feet long. The tomb of Mary Queen of Scots has her sculptured 16 80UVENIKS OF TRAVEL. eflBgy upon it Her son (James I.) had her body brought here. The face is said to be very like hers. It has a deeply sad exprei^sion. Queen Elizabeth and her sister Mary lie near each other The chapel of Edward the Confessor is dark and gloomy. There are sculptures in las-relief, representing the events of his life. There is a monument to General Wolfe, and one to Ad- miral Vernon ; a statue uuinscribed, which is intended for John Philip Kemble ; and a monument to old Parr, who lived until he was 152 years old. Ten sovereigns lived and died duriunj his lifetime, Immeuse space is awarded to naval and military heroes. The poets have only a corner, and the great statesmen but little more of room. I saw many specimens of modern sculpture, which I greatly admired, by Westmacott, by Chantrey, and by Flaxman. The tombs of the kings and queens of the " olden time " have a rude and lofty grandeur, exceedingly impressive. The afternoon service had already commenced, while we lingered amid the dim aisles. The swelling of the organ through them was solemnly grand. From the abbey we passed over the street to the " Palace of Westminster," as the Queen has commanded it to be called. It is a most magnificent edifice, with a splen- did facade fronting the Thames, nine hundred feet long. It is panelled, decorated with statues and the shields and arms of the sovereigns from the Conquest until now. In 1834 the old palace was burnt, and this has arisen in its place, but is not yet complete. The Victoria Tower y now building, (to be in height 'JoO feet,) will be a worthy monument to the adored Queen. " Westminster Hall " is said to be the largest room in LORD CAMPBELL. IT the world, unsupported by pillars. It escaped the conflagra- tion, and is now a portion of the Houses of Parliament. It was here the kings held their banquets after their corona- tions. Here, many of the great trials took place ; and here, Charles I. was condemned to die. In driving down to the abbey, we passed Whitehall Palace, where he wa? executed. As we were engaged to dine with our charming friend. Mrs. S., we only had time to look at the old hall, where six hundred years ago such fearful scenes were enacted, and to enter one of the courts of law, where. Lord' Campbell was speaking. He is a fine, noble-looking man, with an impres- sive manner, and clear tone of voice. He is deemed one of the most excellent jurists in the three kingdoms, and likewise a statesman. I was deeply interested in him, for I was told Lc had been the architect of his own fortune. CHAPTEE III. We passed a few hours to-day (June 29th) in the British Mu- seum. It is of immense size, decorated with Ionic columns. The collection of antiquities is unrivalled in the world. What immortal grace of art did the sculptures of old possess ! Here, after the passing away of thousands of years, despite the " sure defacing touch of time," tbeir crea- tions excite admiration and wonder. The " Elgin Marbles " and the Frieze of the Parthenon are wonderful, not only in their preservation, but in their beauty. There is something so grand and powerful in the conception — so noble and startling in many of the figures — that I stood like one en- tranced before them. The assemblage of Etruscan vases, from the tombs of the ancient people of Italy, is very curious. Several rooms are allotted to the monuments of Nineveh, disentombed by the indomitable Layard. They consist of tablets from the walls of the palaces, the winged bulls, and lions, and two gigantic forms in human shape — of such won- drous size it seems impossible they were chiselled by the hands of man. The Egyptian antiquities are many. There are col- umns, tablets, statues, and sarcophagi, and quantities of mummies. The Portland Vase is beautiful. It was said to have beeh discovered in the tomb of Alexander Severus, who died in 235. IIOK-nCULTUKAL EXPOSITION. 19 Wo passed through rooms filled with specimens of min- eralogy and geology, of zoology, of bronzes, and of medals. The library of printed books contains 400,000 volumes. The National Gallery has a fine collection of pictures. Among the manuscripts I saw the hand-writing of Sliak- speare, of Mary Queen of Scots, Milton, John Knox, Spen- ser Chaucer, Dry den, and many more names made immortal by history. From these wonders of past generations we drove to Madame Tussaud's. Her collection of wax figures is really one of the curiosities of London. They are so entirely life- like it requires the test of touch to distinguish the false from the real. In the » Chamber of Horrors " is the infer- nal machine of Fieschi, and the figures of all the most fa- mous murderers. In one apartment are seen many of the relics of Napo- leon Bonaparte. The figures of the Queen, Prince Albert, and the royal children, are exceedingly good. The rooms are large, panelled with plate glass, and decorated with dra- peries and gildings in the style of Louis XIV. Nearly all the celebrated characters of the last two centuries are here represented. The " Horticultural Exposition," in Kegent's Park, next engaged our attention. The drive to it was delightful. Al- though in the midst of a great city, we were entirely removed from its tumult. As far as the eye wandered it only rested upon trees and flowers. As we approached the gardens it was a scene of rare beauty. There were thousands and tens of thousands of people, with gala dresses and gala faces, walking through the park. Bands of musicians were playing most exquisite gems of opera music. Flags were gaily float- ing on the " summer wind." Gallant officers, and manly- looking soldiers, in their conspicuous uniforms, were sprinkled 20 SOUYENTES OF TRAVEL. amid the black coats and white neck-ties of the civilians, while multitudes of healthful women, blooming girls, and beautiful children, were seen on every side. Then we entered the tent containing the fruits. There we saw grapes of wonderful size, mammoth pine-apples, giant peaches, s^ndi pigmy figs and melons. The roses numbered many hundred varieties. The green- house of the garden was almost the size of the New York Crystal Palace. In it were palm and cocoanut trees, and many bright-hued tropical plants and flowers. At seven we drove to Blackheath to dine with Mrs. Crosland, (Camilla Toulman, the delightful authoress.) It was nine miles from the West End to Blackheath. En route we passed the Lunatic Asylum, known as " Bedlam." It was a bright evening, and many of the patients were walking in the grounds or seated on benches, talking to their friends. Mrs. Crosland is one of the most lovely, gifted, and genial women I have ever met. How radiant and joy-giving was her look of welcome. It needed no words from her sweet lips to say she greeted us as friends. The guests had all assembled ere we arrived. Among them was Mr. Bennoch and his charming wife. Mr. B. is a poet, though he is a merchant. He is a man of pro- gress ; warm-hearted, liberal, frank, and cordial ; a patron of the arts, and a friend to the stranger. Then there was Grace Greenwood, our American authoress, a graceful wo- man, bright and enchanting in conversation. Delightfully passed the hours until near one o'clock, when we entered our carriage and drove homeward. June ^Qih. — We have taken a long drive to-day to see the streets of London. Regent street is very wide and well paved. There are splendid shops on either side, where mag- 8TKEETS OF LONDON. 21 nificent goods are sold for most magnificent prices. Piccadil- ly is a fine and fashionable street. Belgrave street contains Belgravia, where stand many of the mansions of the nobility. The Strand is the most thronged portion of the city. It passes ftom Charing Cross : this street is thus named from the cross raised there by Edward I. He was taking the remains of his queen to Westminster Abbey, and rested at the " little hamlet of Charing " for a time, hence its name. The statue of Charles I. is there. Nelson's column is of Portland stone. It is in Trafalgar Square. Pall Mall is a handsome street, extending from St. James to Haymarket. It is thus named from a game played in England during the reign of Charles I. St. James street extends from the palace of St. James to Albemarle street. It is wide and handsome, and a fashionable drive. Sheri- dan says : — " The Campus Martius of St. James's street, Where the beaux's cavalry pace to and fro Before they take the field in Rotten Row." Fleei street is an extension of the Strand ; Temple Bar is over this street. This is a quaint old wall, with gates which appear useless. On state occasions the Queen cannot pass through without asking permission. Then the gates are fastened, and the officer knocks upon them, whereupon the Lord Mayor asks, " Who is there ? " The answer comes, " The Queen;" then they fly open, and the sovereign enters the city amid many protestations of love from her loyal sub- jects. There are multitudes of open squares in London, which add greatly to the comfort of its inhabitants. These are not large, but they are lovely, with their tall trees and flowers. 2515 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. We have just " taken lodgings " in Portman street, Portman Square. The house is delightful. We have all the advantages of a private house, and none of the bustle of the hotel. Our table is quietly and nicely served as though we were at home. After driving for hours through the thronged portions of the city, and the aristocratic streets of the AVest End, we came to Hyde Park, and entered it by the archway. The park takes its name from " Hyde," the property once of the Monks of Westminster. Near the grand entrance is Apsley House, the residence of the " Iron Duke." In front of the mansion stands the monument in memory of his glorious achievements. The western windows are cov- ered over with plates of iron. During the agitation of the lleform Bill the mob assembled before the house and broke in the windows. The Duke of Wellington had the wooden shutters replaced by sheets of iron, which he would never have removed He was the Prime Minister then, but after that day's outrage gave up his power into the hands of the Queen. Just within the park is a statue of Achilles, cast by Sir R. Westmacott from the cannon taken in Spain and at Waterloo. It was paid for by a subscription among the ladies, and inscribed " to Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms, by the women of England." The park contains four hundred acres, and has many noble trees, and grass as fresh and green as the famous " Blue Grass " of Ashland, near Lexington, Kentucky. There are roads through it which are thronged at the fashion- able hours with gorgeous equipages and horsemen. Kotten Row (from the French " Route du Roi ") is re- served for those on horseback. The Queen's carriage is alone EKGLTSH HORSEWOMEN. 23 permitted in this exclusive place. From two o'clock until six it is filled with fair equestriennes. We left our carriage and walked along Rotten Row. What a brilliant scene it was ! There were multitudes of people walking upon the smooth cut grass, as soft and yield- ing: as velvet, and hundreds and hundreds riding. The English women look admirably well on horseback. There is a style and grace about them peculiarly adapted to this exercise. Their round hats and close-fitting amazones are exceedingly becoming. Many were attended by their grooms only, while others were riding side by side with some gallant cavalier. Some were dashing along in a rapid gallop, and others sauntering quietly and pleasantly in earnest talk. In the park is the Serpentine River. There were many boats upon it, skimming over the waters like so many swal- lows. On the bank of the little river is a house built by a society, where persons are stationed constantly, to save the lives of those who may accidentally fall in, or purposely tumble, or plunge therein to rid themselves of the burden of life by this mode of suicide. Boats and drags are in readi- ness, and many are thus rescued from death. It was an evening of unusual loveliness, and the Queen, Prince Al- bert, and their royal guests ; the King and Queen of Han- over, the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia, and their handsome young son, Prince Frederick William, were driving in Rotten Row, amid a throng of fine horsemen, and brilliant dashing equestriennes. In the park were the gorgeous equipages of the aristoc- racy, and under the old trees groups of the people, with their children and wives. Oh ! what a blessiug to life are these parks of London ! They are indeed the " lungs " of the great city. They are indescribably beautiful, and the most enjoyable spots of earth. 24 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. We passed this evening with Miss Fanny Haworth at Brompton. She is a sweet poetess, an exceedingly accom- plished woman, and an excellent artist. In her pleasant circle we met many agreeable persons. Among them Baron Marichetti, the sculptor, who has just sent over to America his statue of Washington. He is a noble, gallant- looking man. We accompanied Col. L., of the American Legation, to the House of Lords, to hear the debates. This apartment, called the " House of Peers," is not of very great size. The ceiling is quite lofty; the frescoes are fine and the stained-glass windows superb. The light comes through them beautifully, casting a radiant glow upon the throne, which is gorgeously gilded. Near it are the chairs for the Prince of Wales, and for Prince Albert. The woolsack is in the centre of the house, upon which sits the Lord Chau- cellor. A richly gilded gallery runs around three sides of the room, called " the Gallery of the Peeresses of England." The Duke of Newcastle was speaking when we entered. He was responded to by several noble lords. The Duke of Argyle has a strikingly interesting and intellectual face He has long red hair, which he dashes from off his high white forehead in a most effective manner, while he speaks. I saw Lord Aberdeen, the Prime Minister, Lord Lans- downe, and many other celebrated statesmen. I needed no one to point out Lord Brougham. I knew him at once, from the not flattering pictures of Punch. He is wonder- fully like General Taylor, our military President. The " House of Peers " has not the comfort or luxuries of our Senate Chamber. There are only seats covered with morocco. Tiie clerks are seated at tables, in long gowns and wigs. The speakers did not strike me as either elo- quent or ready in debate. There was no tire Df a Chat- HOUSE OF PEERS. 25 ham, of a Burke, or a Pitt. However, the style and fashion of oratory are perfectly different from ours, and a certain hesitation of speech seems to a stranger like an affectation. At eight we went to the Italian opera, Covent Garden. Mr. Peabody (our merchant-prince) sent us tickets to his box. When we entered it there were bouquets of exquisite beauty lying upon the cushion in front, a mute yet fragrant welcome to us. The theatre has six tiers of boxes. All were filled with the beauty, rank, and fashion of the London world. The ladies were in full dress, and diamonds were flashing like stars. It was a magnificent spectacle. The opera was " I Puritani." Bosio sang delightfully, but she is not an actress. Then came Mario, the enchant- ing Mario ! What a voice ! It goes directly to the heart, without lingering on the way to enchain the attention by mere graces of execution. It is as clear as the tone of a glass bell, and electrical in its power. Like an atmosphere it surrounded me, while I scarcely breathed, so much I feared to lose the faintest tone. Vol I.— 2 CHAPTEB lY. When we reached England my kind and noble friend, Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley, had left for Dover. But her charming family have been affectionately cordial to us. It is impossible to describe how excellent and attentive they constantly are. They have all called upon us, entertained us at their houses, and greeted us as dear friends. Oh ! how gentle and precious to the stranger's heart, are these evi- dences of appreciation ! The Rutland family are among the noblest and highest of England. They are cultivated, elegant, and refined, and more hospitable people I have never met. We have just returned from a delightful party, to which we were invited by Lady John Manners, the lovely wife of Lord John, second son of the Duke of Rutland. The party was bril- liant and magnificent, and we were enchanted by the charm- ing manner in which we were received. A number of per- sons were presented to us, who welcomed us so kindly we felt no more as strangers. Lady John Manners is very beautiful. She is tall and graceful ; her complexion fair, her eyes " deeply, darkly blue," and her hair perfectly black. It was fastened around LOKJ) AND LADY JOHN MANNERS. 27 her head in broad Grecian braids, and then encircled by a coronet of diamonds. Her manner is refreshingly natural and genial. As she stood by the side of her noble husband, I thought of the remark of the divine who married them : " I have never united in marriage a more handsome couple." They were indeed fitly mated, in youth, in intellect, and in high position. Lord John Manners has a noble, high-bred air. He is an exceedingly handsome man, resembling very much the pictures of Lord Byron, to whom he is of kindred. His eyes are of singular beauty and eloquence of expression ; his dark hair clusters in close curls around his lofty and poetic brow. He is said to be the original of ©'Israeli's " Coningsby." He told me how affectionately his sister (Lady Emmeline) cherished the remembrance of her Ameri- can friends There were a number of distinguished persons present, and I was highly gratified to meet D'Israeli, and to hear his bright and sparkling conversation. He has a strongly marked Hebrew face, with brilliant eyes, and intensely black hair. The Misses Pyne and Mr. Harrison sang several con- certed pieces, and many charming ballads. They are de- lightful vocalists, and will be warmly appreciated in America, where they are going shortly. It was already daylight, when we reached our lodgings ; in these northern climes, the nights of summer are not of long duration. It is only one week since we reached London, and each hour has brought new emotions of pleasure. We had letters to many different circles of society, and all had greeted me with a kindness and warmth of cordiality inexpressibly gra- tifying. " The cold in clime " are not always " cold in heart," for hospitality more prompt, more generous and considerate, I 28 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. have never known even in the " Land of the South." The perfection of manner is found among the higher classes of the nobility. Unpretentious and elegant, they deem them- selves sufficiently elevated in social position to be natural, and hence they are charming and genial. We devoted this morning to visiting at the house of Lady Wharncliffe. We met Prince Czarstorisky, and his hand- some young son. The prince is heir to the throne of Poland, could Poland ever again be numbered among the nations of earth. He strongly reminded me of Lafayette, not only in the expression of his face, but in his benevolent manner. When he knew I was from America, he asked eagerly about the country, and remarked, that in the first days of his exile he had thought of going there. I assured him, he would have met an earnest welcome, for America still gratefully cherished the memory of Kosciusko, who came to her aid in the dark days of trial. Lord Wharncliffe is the great-grandson of Lady Mary Wortley Montague. His father wrote her Memoirs. Lord and Lady Wharncliffe, and the Hon. Miss Wort- ley, had passed some months in America, and it was pleasant to hear them speak in terms of such true appreciation of our country. Every where we have heard English people ex- press pride and gratification at the onward progress of the United States. We had heard much ere we came, of the prejudice against us; but from our own experience it is a fiction. As a mother rejoices in the renown of her children, so does Eng- land look with satisfaction upon America. How can it be otherwise ? English blood flows in our veins- — their language is ours — their religion is ours — their poets and great men are also our treasures. THE STARR FAMILY. 29 Meeting again with our dear kind friends, Col. and Mrs. Starr, has been a great happiness to me. We knew each other well, long years ago in America ; and as soon as wo reached London, they came to greet us with the warmest and most heart-winning welcome. Col. Starr is now established in this city, at the head of an influential business-house, and has gathered around him a large circle of charming and appreciative friends. He is a noble man, gifted, refined, and intellectual. As an author he possesses great merit, and as a poet, his songs are sweetly expressive of the gentle and tender emotions of the soul. Mrs. Starr is an elegant woman, belonging to one of the old and aristocratic families of New York. Her grandfather was Sir John Throgmorton, an English Governor of the province of New York, under royal rule. In their delightful family circle, consisting of four chil- dren, two lovely girls and two noble boys, we have spent a portion of every day since our arrival. It was like a pleas- ant home to us, in a foreign land, a " bit of America " in England ; for, although Col. S. is an Englishman, his wife and children were all born in our own country. We have been exceedingly pleased with our Minister, Mr. Ingersoll ; he is a fine specimen of a frank, honest, agreeable and intelligent American gentleman. His niece, Miss Wilcocks, a handsome and interesting woman, dispenses the hospitality of his mansion in Portland Place, with a graceful cordiality, very captivating to her country-people ; and extremely admired by the distinguished circles of society, who often assemble there. Americans are always warmly and graciously received by Mr. Ingersoll, and every favor and kindness in his power bestowed upon them. 30 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. Col. Lawrence (son of the former Minister) is still at- tached to the Legation. He came often to visit us, and we were truly grateful to him for many courteous attentions. He is a great favorite in the aristocratic circle in which he moves. CIIAPTEK V. Jtdy 2d. Ere one ray of the splendor of that brilliant spectacle of the state ball has faded from memory, I will consecrate to the future its impressions upon me ; although I have just arisen from a few hours' sleep, and still feel quite weary from the varied pleasures of the last night. At nine, our excellent Minister and his niece with the attaches of legation called for me, and in our respective car- riages we drove through St. James's Park to Buckingham Palace. Long lines of soldiers were drawn up near the entrance, and gentlemen in elegant costumes ushered us into the cloak-room. We stood some time looking at the distinguished and royal personages as they entered; only those, and the diplomatic corps, and the members of the Queen's household, passed that way. After a brief delay, we ascended the great staircase; on each side of the marble steps, masses of flowers were placed, so arranged they formed immense beds of gorgeous hue. Entering the state apartments, we tarried in the yellow drawing-room, until ten o'clock. Then the guests withdrew from the centre of the room, leaving a clear space like an avenue between the hedges of splendidly dressed women. As we thus stood in eager expectation, the plate-glass doors of the 32 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. saloon were thrown open ; the Lord Chamberlain, with a golden rod in his hand, walked in backwards, the band struck up '* God save the Queen," and Victoria, sovereign over many millions of people, entered. By her side was the Queen of Hanover, then the Crown Princess of Prussia, and the Duchess of Gloucester. Next came the Duchess of Kent, and the Princess Mary of Cam- bridge ; the Duchess of Cambridge, and the Princess of Hoheulohe, the Duchess of Saxe-Coburg Gotha, and the Duchess of Sutherland ; then all the maids of honor and ladies in waiting. After these came Prince Albert, and the King of Hanover; the Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar, and the Duke of Coburg Gotha ; the Duke of Mecklenburg Strelitz, and the Prince of Hohenlohe ; the Duke of Cam- bridge, noble lords, gentlemen in waiting, foreign ambassa- dors and ministers. Queen Victoria moved gracefully along, smiling and bowing in a kind, cordial manner, to the right and to the left. Reaching the throne-room, she ascended the canopied " haut pas," where she seated herself surrounded by her royal guests. The throne-room was a spacious and noble saloon, hung with crimson satin, the lofty ceiling supported by marble columns, and richly emblazoned ; while around it was a frieze, (also of white marble,) representing the " wars of the roses." It was brightly illuminated by the light which came from crystal globes and golden candelabra. Dazzling was the scene around me, resplendent as day with flashing diamonds and sparkling gems. There were more than two thousand guests ; every lady in magnificent toilette, and every gentleman in court-dress, or in uniform. Soon delightful music from JuUicn's band (led by the famous composer himself) filled the grand apartment with its ex- quisite strains. Then the Lord Chamberlain waved his APl'EARANOE OF THE QUEEN 33 golden wand, the crowd drew back, and a large quadrille was formed, which consisted of her Majesty and all her royal visitors. Queen Victoria is much handsomer than painters have represented her. She is not tall, but her form is of graceful symmetry ; and her bust, arms, and feet, are beautiful. A bright and beaming smile lights up her face. Then there is such an air of honest, earnest goodness about her — a genial manner, so lovely and lovable — " my heart was quickly won," and sincerely could I have exclaimed, like her own loyal subjects, " God save the Queen." Her dress was of white lace embroidered with straw, and green silk ; her hair parted on the forehead, and simply bound around her head, which was encircled with a wreath of poppies, the heart of each flower formed by a large diamond. Around the cor- sage was a band of diamonds of vast size, while a perfect river of light seemed to flow around her neck, and rest upon her bosom. She wore the blue ribbon (the Order of the Garter), with a clasp of radiant gems. Prince Albert was in the uniform of the Rifles, (since the death of the Duke of Wellington he has been appointed colo- nel of that regiment.) It was of dark green cloth, and a short jacket, and a small paletot hanging from thje shoulder. Upon his breast were many glittering Orders. He is truly a handsome man ; with regular features, and a most benign and beautiful expression of countenance. His manner is elegant, and his movements in the dance were extremely graceful. He was always the vis-d-vis of her Majesty, and in passing each other they constantly interchanged words, and pleasant, happy glances. The Duke of Cambridge is a tall, gallant, dashing-looking person. He was dressed in a splendid uniform. His sister, Princess Mary of Cambridge, although quite young, is an Vol. I.— 2* 34 SOUVENIRS OF TKAVKI.. uncommonly large woman. She lias an amiable, pleasant face. The Prince of Saxe-Coburg Gotha is an elder brother of Prince Albert. Then there was Prince Edward of Saxe- Weimar, nephew of the Dowager Queen Adelaide and her heir. He is the son of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, who went many years ago to America, and wrote a clever book about it. The Queen of Hanover is not a handsome person, but her relative, the Crown Princess of Prussia, has a majes- tic and commanding air, and fine figure. Her husband (brother to the present King of Prussia) is a dignified and stately personage. Their son Frederick William, it is whispered in court circles, will probably marry, in a few years, the Princess Eoyal of England. His appearance is extremely prepossessing ; he is a fine-looking, elegant, and well-mannered youth. Besides these there were several other princes and prin- cesses, all Germans, — none, however, remarkable for personal attractions. The King of Hanover awakened my deepest interest ; he is entirely blind. While they were dancing the quadrille, he sat talking to his aid-de-camp, and I earnestly watched his countenance. His features are handsome, and his poor eyes large and blue. They have quite a natural expression, but, alas ! they are fixed for ever upon darkness. It was really touching to remark the eagerness with which the queeii (his wife) would run to him the moment the dance was over, and seating herself by his side, would apparently describe the joyous scene to him. Smiles would steal like sunbeams over his face, and those sightless eyes were turned towards her with loving tenderness. It was pleasant, too, to see the kind attention paid him by Queen Victoria. She often conversed with him in a merry, cheerful way. When THE PRESENTATION. 35 another quadrille was played, and they all left him, a deep sadness fell like a veil over his features. I was happy to meet the Marquis of Granby, the eldest brother of dear Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley. He is a noble and splendid man, graceful and charming in conversa- tion. Two delightful persons were then presented to me, the Count and Countess Walewski. The Countess is a Florentine, a lovely and delicate creature, very like an American. Her complexion is fair, and a profusion of shining brown hair was twined around her well-shaped head in a most becoming manner. The Count has a wonderful resemblance to the portraits of Napoleon the Great. He is the son of a Polish countess of Warsaw, and is now the French Minister to the Court of St. James, where he is ex- tremely popular as a refined gentleman and excellent di- plomatist. During the dancing of the second quadrille, the Lord Chamberlain was introduced to me, and, after some pleasant words were exchanged, he remarked : " As you are the only person here, not present at the last drawing-room, I will have the pleasure, Madame, of presenting you to her Majesty." Of course I was delighted at this unexpected and unusual compliment, as presentations at a state-ball are not frequent. When the dance was over, and the Queen seated again, the Lord Chamberlain waved his wand of authority, and the com- pany drew back, leaving a space vacant in front of the throne ; then I approached, and was presented to her Majesty, who advanced and greeted me in the most gracious and kind manner, smiling sweetly as I courtsied low before her, and then passed on to the group of distinguished and royal per- sonages who encircled her throne. That presentation was a bright and enchanting incident to me, and my heart bounded with glad and gratified emo 36 80UVENIKS OF I'KAVKL. tions, as I gazed upon the amiable and lovely Queen. She is indeed worthy of the almost adoring affection her people have for her. The Duchess of Sutherland was quite near me, and I could well imagine she had most justly been styled the '• Queen of Beauty." Although now of wonderful " embon- point," she is a magnificent woman. Her dress was exqui- site. It was a silver moire antique, with a tunique (short dress) of brown crape, embroidered thickly with sparkling gems. The front of the corsage resembled a parterre of pre- cious jewels, while multitudes of diamond pins, formed like stars, were gleaming in her fair hair. Her two daughters the Duchess of Argyle and Lady Constance Grosvenor, were with her. They are both exceedingly handsome, and were attired in superb dresses, with a profusion of diamonds. The foreign Ministers and attaches were all in their nation- al costume ; that of the Persian Minister was absolutely blaz- ing with jewels. The Turkish ambassador was a most agreea- ble man. With the Grreek, Spanish, and Italian Ministers I had a very gay and interesting conversation. They were all well-informed and intellectual persons. Our kind friend Mrs. Marlay (the mother of Lady John Manners) presented me to many noble lords and ladies, and pointed out a number of remarkable people, among them Lady Rockingham, (I believe that is her title now, she was the great actress Miss O'Niel;) she still has traces of beauty, although her hair is snowy white. The Countess of Jersey, and her daughter, Lady Clem- entina Villars, quite charmed me by their cordial greeting. Lady Clementina was certainly the most beautiful woman in the brilliant assemblage, although many contended that the Duchess of Wellington (a very lovely woman) surpassed her in personal charms. However, Paris himself might have iip:r majesty in the dance. 37 been puzzled to determine to which he should award the apple. The Countess of Jersey is called the " queen of Lou- don fashion," and she wields her sceptre with an admirable grace. The Duke of Wellington I recognized at a glance, from the remarkable nose of the family, which strikes the behold- er so forcibly in the statue of the Iron Duke in Hyde Park. Although trains were dispensed with, the dresses of the ladies were rich, splendid, and costly. All the treasures of the mines of Golconda appeared to have been yielded up to adorn their fair bosoms, and to glitter as coronets upon their brows. Emeralds, rubies, pearls " from Oman's green waters," opals, and sapphires, were wrought into garlands and bouquets, imitating flowers, and sparkling as though touched by the morning dew. The supper was delicious ; served up on sevres China, each plate so beautiful it seemed fit for a place in a painter's studio. The goblets of glass were exquisitely cut, and the gold spoons and forks perfectly superb. One end of the banquet saloon was occupied by the R-oyal Buffet, where gorgeous treasures of golden plate were glittering in amazing splendor. There was every imaginable variety of viands and rich pates, rare tropical fruits from the Queen's con- servatories, luscious grapes, peaches, and other fruits of the temperate zone ; then, wines of the finest vintage from France, Italy, and the Rhine valley. Her Majesty danced every quadrille with spirit and evi- dent delight. She tripped gaily along with the joyous glee of a girl, and the simple, unaffected grace of a child. She looks exceedingly young. No one would suppose her to be the mother of eight children. Her partners in the dance were usually her royal visitors, although several times she 38 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. selected as such some noblemen of high rank. The Marquis of Granby was one of the persons thus honored. About two o'clock in the morning the Queen bade adieu to her guests, passing between two living walls, which lined the picture-gallery. As in entering, she kindly bowed and smiled, as the great door, panelled with mirrors, closed upon her. Her sweet and genial manner was really charm- ing, and a low murmur of praise and admiration was heard on every side. Her Majesty is truly an admirable womanly woman, or else she could not possess such an influence over the hearts of her people. She is at once their pride, their boast, and their example for all that is good and excellent in the various relations of life, as a wife, mother, and sovereign. When Queen Victoria retired, one of the noblemen in waiting upon their Majesties most kindly became my guide around the sculpture and picture galleries, pointing out the fine paintings of St. Peter Lely, of Reynolds, Rembrandt, and Wilkie. He then conducted me to the landing of the grand stairway, where we stood some time looking down upon the scene below. There were hundreds and hundreds of ladies in bright crimson and blue cloaks waiting for their carriages, while near the door-way was a " band of yeomen " (the guard of honor) in their quaint costume of the time of Henry the Eighth. My agreeable chevalier presented me to many pleasant persons, and I was delighted with the cordial way in which they greeted me. One gallant old general, who had served long, and won many battles in India, pleased me especially. Although an aged man, he had all the enthusi- asm of a young soldier. He spoke with warm admiration of our generals, Taylor and Scott, and of their glorious cam- paigns in Mexico. After talking awhile he invited me to go down to visit him at his country place, and we parted very earnest friends. ETIQUETTE ON LEAVING THE PALACE. 39 " How noiseless falls the foot of Time, That only treads on flowers." Never did I realize so absolutely the truth of Shenstone's words, as when our courteous friends, Mr. Ingersoll and Col. Lawrence, came to seek me, and said it was nearly five o'clock ! Then we were at least an hour, ready cloaked in the ante- chamber, ere we departed. From the outer gate to the dooi* of this room, the names of princes, foreign ambassadors, and ministers, dukes, lords, and ladies, were called out in every variety of tone. " The Duchess of Sutherland is coming," in a weak treble — '' The Duchess of Sutherland is coming," in a deep bass. Thus her name was repeated until she stepped into her coach, and another was drawn up, and the same eti- quette gone through with. Our turn came at last, with the oft-repeated announcement of our progress to the out- ward world. Leaving the glare of the bright chandeliers, we sprang into our carriage. It was a bright, delightful morning. Numerous birds were singing amid the thick foliage of the trees, rejoicing in the early sunlight. The smoothly-cut lawn around the palace was like a velvet carpet, and the flowers fresh from their dewy bath of the past night. The air was so delicious and invigorating, that we drove entirely around the Park, over Constitution Hill, and along Piccadilly, to my lodgings in Portman Square. I ran to my chamber. Octavia was al- ready awake, eager to hear the description of the magnifi- cent ball ; but my weariness was so excessive, I fell asleep, with the words " glorious, enchanting," upon my lips. The Queen's Ball ! Like a beautiful picture, it shall hang within the brightest chamber of memory ; and when troublous cares oppress me, I will summon that entrancing scene to the " mind's eye," and for a time forget them all. CHAPTEE VI. July Zd. We went this morning (Sunday) to the Church of the Cru- saders, to hear divine service. This is a very ancient edifice, near six hundred years old. In the time of Cromwell, the lofty dome and frescoed walls were covered with whitewash, to preserve them from the fanatics, it is supposed. Century after century passed away, until, by accident, a portion of the coating fell off, revealing the exquisite fresco. It has since been restored at an enormous expense, and now its fine mediaeval decorations awaken the admiration of all beholders. All the congregation joined in the responses, thus mak- ing the service exceedingly solemn and impressive. En- circled by an iron railing are the figures in bronze of the Knight Templars of Jerusalem. They are in complete ar- mor, with shields, helmets, and spears, and are most interest- ing as works of art. We dined at the villa of a distinguished artist at Old Brompton. The grounds were surrounded by a high wall, and are a portion of the farm of Oliver Cromwell. When we drove through the large gate, we found ourselves in a small forest of trees, amid which stands a cottage-house, and around it exquisite flowers and clustering vines. In a little dell, overshadowed by a great oak, is the spring, called to TOWER OF LONDON. 41 this day " CromweU's Spring." We were delightfully en- tertained, and returned home, with another pleasant remem- brance of English hospitality. July 4^/i.— This is the Fourth of July ! In my own loved country, what a roar of cannon has ushered in this glorious day of our independence ! What glowing spee 'hes will be made— what floods of patriotism will pour over youthful souls — what quantities of powder will be burnt — what myriads of rockets will fill the air — and to-morrow^ what fearful headaches will be endured ! After breakfast we drove to the Tower of London, a great fortress, enclosed by a wall and fosse. It takes its name from the immense square tower in the centre, which tradition says was built by Julius Caesar. All antiquarians say it was erected by William the Conqueror. We passed in by the Lion's Gate, and were conducted through the labyrinths of armories, halls, and prisons, by an old soldier in the yeoman dress of the guard of Henry the Eighth. He proved quite a character. He had served in the British army at New Orleans, had been in Spain, in In- dia, and, lastly, at the battle of Waterloo, where a ball dis- abled him, and he was invalided. He inquired with great interest about New Orleans, and said, " Of course a grand monument has been erected to General Jackson on the bat- tle-field." AVe saw all the armor of the kings, from Edward the First to James the Second. There must have been giants in those days; for the suit of Francis Hastings is said to weigh one hundred pounds. The efl&gies of Leicester and Essex were particularly gorgeous. Along the walls are weapons and suits of ancient armor, and muskets, swords, and pistols, arranged like huge sun-flowers. There were also many cuirasses taken at Waterloo, pierced by grape-shot. 42 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. Queen Elizabeth's Armory is filled with strange weapons, battle-axes, pikes, halberds, and also with instruments of torture. My soul sickened as I looked upon them, and I thanked the good God that those dark days had vanished before the clear light of civilization. This room contains an equestrian statue of the " Virgin Queen," in the very cos- tume which she wore when she visited St. PauFs, to return thanks for the destruction of the Spanish Armada. Near Elizabeth's Armory is the dungeon of Sir Walter Kaleigh. There he was confined twelve years, and within those dark walls he wrote his " History of the World." Gallant Raleigh ! I crept into the cell, and touched with reverence the cold stones upon which that noble head had so often rested. And then our guide led me to the block upon which once lay the beautiful head of Anna Boleyu. The beheading axe is rusty, and seems even now to wear the stain of blood. Under the pavement of the church of St. Pe- ter's were buried the bodies of Lady Jane Grey, of Essex, of Northumberland, of AnnaBoleyn, and other victims of tyranny. In the " White Tower," Hastings was impeached by Richard of Gloucester. In the " Bloody Tower," the young princes were murdered. In the " Bowyer Tower," Clarence was drowned in the Butt of Malmsey. Many inscriptions yet remain upon the walls, traced by the hands long mouldering in the dust. Lady Jane Grey was confined in the " Brick Tower," and they pointed out the window through which she saw her husband led to exe- cution, and exclaimed, " This day we meet in heaven." The Regalia of England is superb, and of immense val- ue, (four millions of pounds sterling.) There are several crowns. The most magnificent is that made for Victoria. It is covered with great diamonds, and other precious gems. 1 Ijcre is also a crown for the Prince of Wales, which he tkaitor's gate. 43 will wear when lie accompanies her Majesty to Parliament. The staff of St. Edward is of gold, about four feet long. It is surmounted by an orb, which is said to contain a piece of the true cross. There are bracelets and spurs, diadems and coronets, swords of justice, and the ampulla for the holy oil, with which the Sovereign was anointed at the Corona- tion ; the font for the christening of the royal children, and the silver wine-fountain given to Charles the Second. We saw all the wonders of the Tower. A grand, old, gloomy place it is. My mind was full of the past, and con- stantly dwelt upon the bitter tears — the sighs of anguish wrung therein from the " strong man in his agony." Our old soldier did not permit any thing to escape us ; he insisted we should see the very spot where the rich life- blood of Anna Boleyn flowed over the square stones of the court-yard of the Tower; and lastly he made us follow him to the '• Traitor's Gate." This opens from the Thames, and only admitted those accused of high treason, though many most innocent of that crime entered thereby. At the gate we bade our veteran guide farewell, and walked along the river-bank through " Wapping," so famed from the escapades of Charles the Second. There, for the first time, we saw the misery — the filth — the degradation of the great city. The wretched houses seemed overflowing with inhabitants, whose pale faces filled every window, and jhildren blighted, ragged, and starved in appearance, were pitiable to look upon. Passing through " Wapping," we came to the docks of uondon. They are of an immense size, and very complete *nd perfect in arrangement. The entrance to the Thames Tunnel is beyond the docks. vV^e descended seventy-five steps, and found ourselves in 1 long, low arcliway, well lighted and neat. Within each 44 SOUVENIRS OF tkavp:l. arch there were shops where women sell little articles, with Thames Tunnel stamped upon them. The atmosphere was damp, and a strange, earthy, uncomfortable feeling oppressed us as we passed along. Multitudes of people were walking through the archway. There were eating-houses, and exhi- bitions of dioramas and panoramas. An organ played by steam filled the moist air with music, to which many couples were gravely dancing the polka. All this life, bustle, and confusion, was beneath the largest river in England. The women told us they suifered at first most dreadfully from the dampness, but after a time were inured to it, and remained there from nine in the morn- ing till nine at night. Poor creatures ! they looked so pale and wan, and so eagerly besought us to buy the little trifles in their shops. H(5w glorious was the sunlight when we emerged from the tunnel! It is a stupendous work; but it has not answered the purpose for which it was designed. The necessit}^ of ascending and descending the seventy -five steps is a barrier to its utility. Persons prefer going over the bridges, or crossing in the boats, to this subterranean passage, though it be well lighted, and music and eating and sight-seeing are the accompaniments. It was intended to have a carriage-way alongside the foot-passage, but it was found too difiicult of accomplishment. It now stands, a monument of the power and energy of hu- man skill to surmount all obstacles. It was designed by Sir Isambard Brunei, and the cost was 614,000 pounds sterling. It belongs to a company. After leaving the tunnel, we went on board one of those little steamers, of which there are hundreds upon the Thames, plying up and down. Whenever they approach a bridge, the chimney goes down, with a great bow, and rises again when it is passed. The river presented a busy aspect. MADAME CELESTE. 45 " Commerce is king," in those regions, most certainly. We landed and passed over the Huugerford Suspension Bridge, to the market of the same name. There we saw a vast dis- play offish, and baskets of snails. The arcades give it quite the look of an Eastern bazaar. We dined with another of our charming friends, and then went to the Adelphi, where Madame Celeste had politely in- vited us, placing her private box at our disposal. The Adel- phi is a very small theatre, but the appointments and acting are excellent. The play was " Genevieve, or the Reign of Terror," in which Madame Celeste has a most interesting part. She was charming in it. The earnestness, the feeling, the lifelike truth of her acting, were surpassingly good. She is still as young and handsome as when in my early days she first enchanted me. Mr. Webster is an admirable actor. His style is refined, quiet, and elegant. Paul Bedford, Mr. and Mrs. Keeley were very funny in a travestie of Norma, in which Bedford took the part of the Priestess, with a garland of vegetables around the head, and Mrs. AVoolgar, a brilliant, well developed woman, the role of PoUio. She sang the music capitally, and acted the part in the most dashing, sparkling manner. July bth. — This has been a charming morning. Miss Fanny Haworth kindly accompanied me to visit Miss West- macott, the daughter of Sir Richard Westmacott, the cele- brated sculptor, many of whose works I had seen in the Westminster Abbey. She was a delightful person, and took us to her father's studio, where we saw many fine statues and models. She showed me a picture found in one of the ships of the Armada, representing the Virgin. There was also a painting in water-colors (said to be the largest of that de- scription in the world). It represents the falling of the Tow- ers of Babylon. Every square inch is a perfect study. 46 SOFYENTRS OF TRAVKT,. In the studio of tlie Baron Maroclietti we spent some hours. This sculptor has jast completed his statue of " Rich- ard Coeur de Lion." It is magnificent. In the foundry I saw the statue of Sir Robert Peel in the fiery furnace The Baron unwrapt the model in clay of his new work, called Ireland. It is a beautiful face, with a slight sad- ness resting upon it. Statues of Prince Albert, of her Majesty, and of the royal children, both in bronze and marble, were shown me ; also those of Lady Constance Grosvenor, and the Duchess of Argyle, the lovely daughters of the Duchess of Sutherland The Baron, a splendid-looking man, is quite a favorite sculptor of the English nobility ; for multitudes of their busts and statues are seen in his rooms. We next drove to the house of Signor Gambadello, an Italian artist. He showed me a very fine allegorical picture of War and Peace, which was splendidly painted, and also a portrait of Lady Morgan, the authoress. At lunch at Miss Haworth's we met a gentleman who is a firm believer in the " Spirit Rappings." He was intellect- ual and agreeable, and has written a book on the subject of the " tables moving." Although coming from the home of the art, the science or the "humbug," I could give them no experiences, never having seen any manifestations of it. In consequence, I have been told, by those versed in the myste- ries, of my being a sceptic. We drove this afternoon with the Earl of Jermyn and his daughter. Lady Elizabeth Hervey, a most sweet and lovely young creature, through Hyde Park ; then walked in the Kensington Gardens, where the band were playing, and multitudes of people wandering 'ueath the trees. After list- ening a time we went on to the Westminster Palace. In the House of Peers we heard a debate, in which THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. 47 the Lord Chancellor, Earl Grey, Lord Derby, Duke of New- castle, and several others joined. Of all the speakers, the Earl of Derby pleased me most. His manner is excellent, his appearance fine, and his speech, though severe, gave token of his great talent. Earl Grrey is a remarkably noble- looking man, with a classic face and well-modulated voice. I was told he had great influence over the Peers. He has the air of a man born to command. In the House of Commons they were discussing Turkey and Russia. The question was introduced by D'Israeli in a very pertinent speech, in which he spoke of the dispatch of Count Nesselrode, just received, on the subject of the occu- pation of the Black Sea, by the allied fleets. D'Israeli is not a very eloquent or graceful speaker. There seems such an affluence of thought, he hesitates in the choice of words. Lord John Russell answered him as the champion of the Government. His voice was good, and his manner dignified and quiet. The style of debate was more conversational than orator- ical. Courtesy and good breeding characterized all they said, but none of them possessed the quick nervous style of Calhoun, the massive grandeur of Webster, or the irresisti- ble, God-like eloquence of Clay. The House of Commons in point of comfort is immeasur- ably inferior to our Hall of Representatives. The Members have no desks. One table stands in the centre of the room, used for writing. Under a crimson canopy sits the Speaker, and near him several clerks in long gowns and white wigs. At one end of the room is a gallery enclosed with a gild- ed lattice-work, or grating, where women are permitted to hear^ but not to be seen. It reminded me of the golden screens placed in the palaces of the Turkish Sultans, behind 4:8 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. which their slave-wives are allowed to listen to the music intended to delight their masters' ears. I inquired why there was such a lack of courtesy towards the fairer portion of creation, and was answered, that their presence was deemed by the ancient legislators of England, as of too ab- sorbing an interest; hence they were wisely kept out of sight. When the new Houses were constructed, Mr. Joseph Hume, and several others, most gallantly strove to do away with the restrictions upon female privileges ; but the prejudice was too strong against the innovation. So it was rebuilt entirely after the fashion of the " olden time." The library of the House of Commons is a splendid room opening upon the river. There are multitudes of committee-rooms, and the long corridors, panelled in oak, with carved arches overhead, are magnificent. During our interesting visit to the palace we were joined by Lord John Manners, who is certahily one of the most genial and de- lightful persons I have ever met. He left us to present some petitions from the manufacturers. Upon the centre of Westminster Bridge, we stopped to take a good view of the Houses of Parliament. The exterior is beautiful. Every little tower is sculptured in the most tasteful manner. In reply to my question of how much did they cost, I was told the " amount was so great, it had never been reckoned up." We next visited Chelsea — the home of the old soldiers, when they are no longer enabled to serve their country. We entered the room v. here the body of the Duke of Wel- lington lay in state for three days. During that time, it was visited by one million of people. Our day ended by passing the evening and taking tea with the courtly Earl of Jermyn and his daughter. It DR. BOWKING. 49 was a sweet, quiet, and pleasant time we spent with them. A true English home is delightful. Painting and sculpture embellish it. Music and poetry linger around it. Then the charm of the simple and cordial hospitality, so warm from the heart." Ah ! little do they who call the English a cold, ceremonious people, know of their inner life ! The Earl showed me a picture of the Duchess of Rutland. AVhat a gloriously beautiful woman she must have been ! I also saw a portrait of the Duke of Bristol (the Earl's father), which was admirable. July 6th. — I gave the morning to returnirg visits, and lunched at Lady Wharncliffe's, where I had the pleasure of being presented to the Dowager Lady Wharncliffe, a most noble, well-preserved old lady. Her manner was so graceful and elegant, so full of kindness. Age seemed not to have taken from her the charm of a warm heart. Her grand- daughter, the Marchioness of Drogheda, is a brilliant spi- rituelle woman, enthusiastic and liberal in her opinions. She is the wife of an Irish peer, the Marquis of Drogheda ; and mentioned she had remained in the prison-like gallery of the House of Commons, until four the night before, so much had she been interested in some measure under de- bate, concerning Ireland. At eight we went to a grand state dinner at Mr. Joseph Hume's, where we met many distinguished people ; among them Dr. Bowring, the linguist and poet. He has published many translations from the Persian, Armenian, and Chinese poets. He is British consul at Hong Kong, and gave us some amusing descriptions of the manners and liter- ature of the Chinese. Although he looks an old man, he is sparkling in conversation, and has all the vivacity of youth. Mr. Joseph Hume is the leader of the Reform party ; and a most estimable and eloquent man. He is a Scotch- VoL. T.— 8 50 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. man, who in early youth went as a physician to India, where he made a fortune ; returned to England and entered Par- liament, of which he has been a member now forty years. His daughters are gifted and intellectual women. One of them has written a most charming volume of poems. Mrs. Hume is a dear, kind old Scotch lady. Her goodness is as refreshing as the sunlight. They were such excellent friends to us, and never can I forget the many happy hours I have spent with them. At the dinner, my seat was by the side of the Governor of Jamaica; he was a very elegant person, and interested us vastly by his graphic description of the Islands of the West Indies. I admire exceedingly the style of the dinners in London ; there is such a quiet manner in the arrangements: no bustle and confusion in changing the plates ; no interrup- tion in the conversation, in being called upon to take wine. One's glass is kept filled, and you drink it if you please. The dessert is beautiful — every variety of fruits, flowers, jellies, ices, and creams ; but the fish and venison do not equal those of the New World. After dinner, the guests all assembled in the drawing- rooms, where we were soon joined by others invited for the evening party. There was music and cards, and tlie favorite English racing game ; and thus most pleasantly passed away the hours until one o'clock, when we retired. CHAPTEE YII. July 1th. We visited Grosvenor House to-day, in company with the Hon. Mrs. Wortley. It is the residence of the Marquis of Westminster. It is a grand old building, with a screen of classic-looking pillars dividing it from the street. We were invited to walk through the picture-gallery, which was a great delight to me. The walls were covered with a fine and rare collection, while many exquisite statues and vases of verde-antique were seen in the rooms. The paintings which particularly pleased me, were those by Rubens and by Guido. " Sarah dismissing Hagar " is ad- mirable, also the four Scriptural paintings by Rubens, the " Marriage of Cana," by Paul Veronese, the " Infant Christ," by Guido, the " Tribute Money," by Titian, the " Holy Family," by Salvator Rosa, the " King of Spain," by Velasquez, the " Salutation of Elizabeth," by Rembrandt, and " Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse," a splendid picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The original painting cost £1,760. There was a most touching picture of the " Death of General Wolfe," by Benjamin West. Many landscapes by Claude Lorraine were exquisite, also those by Poussin, by Teniers, by Gerard, by Vandervelde. The " Distressed Poet," by Hogarth, is excellent. 52 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. The drawing-rooms opened upon most lovely grounds, where old trees o'ershadowed the greensward, fresh and smooth as emerald-hued velvet. No sound of the great city reached us there. At three we went to Greenwich, accompanied by Sir Frederick Xdam, an old veteran of Waterloo, whose acquaint- ance I had made at her Majesty's ball. He was a delight- ful cicerone, and a most pleasant man. He pointed out to us all the objects of interest en route. His brother was Governor of Greenwich, and we thus had permission to see every portion of the building. This hospital is for disabled sailors. It was founded by William and Mary, and is built upon the site of the old manor house, where Mary and Elizabeth were born. The great hall by Wren is magnificent. The portraits of the Royal family are mingled in an allegorical picture upon the ceiling. The walls are hung with the portraits of naval and military heroes. The Battle of Trafalgar, by Turner, is a fine, spirited painting. We saw the coat worn by Nelson when he received his death-wound. It is preserved as a precious relic. There are a number of statues erected by Parliament, which one of the "Ancient Mariners " explained to us. There are two thousand old sailors in this hospital. Many never leave their beds. The institution is very rich, having an in- come of 130,000 pounds sterling a year. Numbers of the old pensioners were seated on benches, with their friends, or children, or grandchildren around them. They seemed happy and contented, and are permitted to re- ceive visitors at stated hours. In all directions about London are Asylums for the af- flicted. The public charities are noble. Enormous sums must be yearly spent in the relief of the poor. BLACK HEATH. 53 In Bromptoii there is an institution for consumptive j)atients, where only maladies of the lungs are treated. Jenny Lind gave largely to this charity. We made a long and agreeable visit to Greenwich, and, parting with regret from Sir Frederick, we drove over Black Heath. This is a great waste, or common, where cricket is played, and where women hire out donkeys for a ride across the Heath. Midway of the plain there is an excellent view of London, and afar off the Crystal Palace of Sydenham, now building, was gleaming in the sunlight. We went to dine with our cordial friend, Mr. Bennoch. His cottage is a sweet spot, encircled by trees, and with a lovely garden of bright-hued flowers. Every where the eyes are blest by beautiful flowers. Much more do these northern people seem to prize them than we of the south. Nearly all the houses, it matters not how humble, have their little gardens, and even in the most thronged and tumult- 'uous portions of the city flowers are in the windows. Even in tlie wretched dwellings of the poor they are seen grow- ing in broken cups and old boxes. Whenever I looked upon them I could but feel there were still refined emotions in these victims of toil. There was still a love for the beautiful which not even poverty could destroy. Mr, Bennoch had kindly assembled a charming company to meet us, — our delightful Grace Greenwood, and lovely Camilla Crosland ; then the German poet, Ferdinand Freili- grath, who is a handsome man, with a wondrous fine head, and a face glowing with soul and honest feeling. Sir Henry Bishop was among the guests. He is a tall, cold, stern-looking man ; his face however lighted up when he seated himself at the piano-forte and played " Home,-' and various other songs, which have become as household words. His touch of the instrument was exquisite ; such grace and 54 60UVEMIKS OF TRAVEL. melody flowed from it, we constantly entreated " yet another, yet another." It was here, too, I came to know Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall. They are both authors and poets, and genial, warm-hearted, intelligent people. Mrs. Hall was the friend of Kate Hayes, the Irish vocalist, and the first to encourage her. I was glad I could tell how vividly impressed upon the grateful heart of Katy was her every act of kindness and protection. Another chord of sympathy drew me to Mrs. Hall. She was also the friend of Miss Bremer, and we sat in long and* earnest talk concerning this much-loved philanthropist and cherished friend? As we were to return by the railway to London, we left our kind host and his sweet wife about one o'clock, and, accompanied by the German poet and Sir Henry, were soon en route. How much I enjoyed that short journey. It passed in conversation with Freiligrath. In my own country he seem- ed to feel the deepest interest, and spoke with high apprecia- tion of Longfellow, whom he had met in Germany. He is truly republican in sentiment, and remarked with wonder upon our progress, and the energy of Americans. In speak- ing of his own country he was most eloquent and inspiring. He has been twice exiled from Prussia, his native land. Both times he has found a home in England. I believe it was his fine poem, " The Living to the Dead," which was chanted by the students in Dusseldorf, thereby causing his arrest, trial, and exile. He still evinces a most heroic devotion to freedom. When we left the railway, we walked across London Bridge, and took a cab into the city. It was a bright, clear night, and the great dome of St. Paul's seemed like a mighty giant, watching over the slumbers of the inhabitants. STAFFORD HOUSE. 65 The moonlight fell softly upon the sculptured turrets of Westminster Palace. The hum of commerce was silent, and, of London, " All that mighty heart was lying still." July Sth. — We went this morning with Lady Wharncliffe to visit the Duchess of Sutherland's splendid mansion, " Staf- ford House," which was commenced by the Duke of York. It belongs to the Crown, but is leased by the Duke of Suther- land, who has greatly enlarged it. Although the exterior is not very striking, within all is regal splendor. The great hall is magnificent. It occu- pies the centre of the buildiug, and is roofed over by a lofty dome. Along three sides of the hall extends a gallery, sus- tained by pillars. On the fourth is the staircase ; half-way up there is a lauding, whence diverge two flights of steps. Upon this landing is a statue of the Sybil, by Rinaldi. The stairs are covered with scarlet cloth, and many fine works of art adorn this wonderful hall. Among them I saw an ex- quisite marble bust of Lady Constance Grosvenor, by the Baron Marochetti, and a bust in plaster of Mrs. Beecher Stowe, the authoress of " Uncle Tom's Cabin." It is almost impossible to describe the gorgeousness and beautiful arrangements of this noble mansion. There is an elegance, an adaptativeness in all the combinations, manifest- ing clearly the inspiration of feminine taste. There is such a perfect tone and keeping in the hangings of the rooms, and in the furniture adapted to each. All is so luxurious and so unique. The walls of the Green Drawing-room were hung with green satin, and the furniture of green and gold. Then we came to the room with crimson hangings, and furniture of the snme color. Then to the Blue-and to the Yellow Draw- 56 SOUVENIKS OF TRAVEL. ing-room, with silver adornments in place of the golden. The ceilings are carved and gilded, and many of the walls adorn- ed with frescoes. The chandeliers were of quaint, curious forms. One, of great water-lilies, was uncommonly beautiful. The furniture in many of the apartments was of antique form, inlaid with gold, silver and ivory. There was a daz- zling profusion of objects of virtu^ exquisite statues by famous sculptors, all arranged in the most artistic manner. Pic- tures of Queen Victoria, of Prince Albert, and of the Koyal children, were seen in several rooms. The picture-gallery is very spacious, and contains many rare paintings. There, for the first time, I saw the pictures of MuriUo. What ripe and fervid beauty glows upon the canvas ! The breath of life seems to issue from those rich lips, and its light to irradiate those liquid, melting eyes. Then there were Titians, Guercinos, Raphaels, Tintoret- tos, Rubens ; and Sir Thomas Lawrence's picture of the Duchess of Sutherland and her child, which I have so often seen engraved in America. The resemblance is still strik- ing. As the poet said of Cleopatra, in the ancient time, we of the modern may express of this beauteous woman, " Age cannot wither her." A picture, by Landseer, of Lord Staf- ford and Lady Evelyn Gower, was exceedingly fine, also that of Paul de la Roche, representing Lord Straff"ord, on his way to the scafi'old, receiving the blessing of Archbishop Laud. In the picture-gallery is a divan of crimson and gold, upon which her Majesty is seated when she visits Stafford House. The Queen occasionally visits the Duchess, who is an especial favorite, I was told. But it is not etiquette for the sovereign to enter the houses of her subjects, although she has visited Belvoir Castle, the seat of the Duke of Rut- land. The Duchess of Sutherland belongs to this noble family, being niece to the Duchess of Rutland. POVERTY AND PLENTY. 57 The ball-room and the dining-room are superb in size and in decorations. Around the house are gardens, with green bowers, radiant flower-beds, and tall trees. The balcony has a fine view of Hyde Park, and its brilliant equipages and dashing horsemen. While I was looking out upon the ani- mated scene, my eyes fell upon a miserable woman in the side-street, just under the wall. Scanty rags hung about her withered form, and two children, as wretched as herself in appearance, clung to her. Their eyes, with that fearful look of starvation in them, were fixed upon the balcony, and their hands clasped as in supplication. It was indeed the beggar at the rich man's door. I felt I could read the starv- ing mother's thoughts, as she gazed upon the grandeur be- fore her, and was famished for one crust of bread. It must be more terrible to endure poverty, when plenty is around us, and yet never within the grasp. Save in this instance and a few others, I have never seen beggars in the "West End of London. In the city I have met them, sad, blighted, and horrid objects. But again we entered the great drawing-room, with its treasures of art and its matchless adornments, and thus on through the magnificent hall to the carriage, quite enchanted with our visit. At night we went to a delightful party at the American Minister's. Many distinguished persons were there ; among them the Duchess of Somerset, blazing with diamonds, the Armenian Minister, and several attaches of the Persian Legation in gorgeous dresses. The noble old Prince Czar- torisky, and his wife, son, and daughter, were among the guests. Mr. Ingersoll is extremely hospitable to his countrymen and countrywomen, and numerous Americans were present. We gladly met many of our compagnons du voyage across Vol. I.— 3* 58 SOUVENIRS OF 'rRAVP:L. the Atlantic. They had already been over Ireland, Scotland, and England, while we had tarried in London. But so en- rapturing have my friends made the city to us, it has been impossible to tear ourselves from them. We came just at the most fortunate period, in the midst of the " season," and like the realization of a happy dream, has life been to me for weeks past. At Mr. IngersolPs I met Rossiter and his lovely young bride. Kossiter, the celebrated artist, is a wonderfully handsome man. He has a perfectly classic face, with the fire of genius and the glow of a noble heart beaming in every feature. His wife (Miss Parmley) was radiant in her loveliness, with the "light of the honeymoon yet lingering on her brow." She is a bright, enthusiastic creature, with infinite talent as an artist. I have rarely seen a couple in which there seemed such sympathy of taste and feeling. They were just going to Egypt, to the East, and then to Italy, to pass several years. We may look for some glorious pictures from them. How beautiful life was to them — "young, loving, and beloved." July l^th. — We attended a charming and novel enter- tainment (at least to me) this morning. It was the Floral Fete, given in the Botanical Gardens of Chiswick. The rarest fruits and finest flowers were exhibited under im- mense tents. It was a gay scene, indeed ; banners were flyings music playing, and gaily-dressed people wandering amid the flowers and trees. Near by the gardens, is the villa of the Duke of Devon- shire, who had given permission to the Botanical Society to continue the festival in his grounds. Thus, after viewing the fruits and flowers for a time, we passed into his domains. How lovely was the scene ! Lakes, groves, arbors, avenues, and grand old fir trees, perfect giants ! They ap» THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. PAUL. 59 peared the original trees beneath whose shelter the Druids celebrated their rites. The villa is very ancient, and is seldom visited by the Duke. Its surroundings are exquisite. In a miniature lake, there were several black swans. More than 50,000 persons were in the grounds during the day. In all this throng there was the most entire decorum and courtesy manifested. Of course, they were of the better class of people, mingled with multitudes of the nobility. We wandered with delight through the leafy labyrinths, and over the smoothly-clipt meadows. Suddenly down came the rain. We sheltered ourselves beneath a great yew tree, and were secure from every drop ; but others were not thus happy, for more wilted-looking creatures were never seen. The delicate gauzy bonnets were hanging down like the leaves of a blighted lily. The stiff petticoats were crushed out of their round proportions, and the long skirts trailed on the wet grass in a most languishing way. What a change from the gay flaunting morning ! We quietly waited until the rain had ceased, then passed again into the Botanical Gardens, where we visited the different conservatories, and saw many curious plants of the cactus family. At night, we crossed the London Bridge, and went to the Surrey Theatre to hear " Robert the Devil ; " and the part of Bertram the Fiend was played by Henry Drayton, a young American. To hear him, was the especial purpose of our visit to that distant theatre. He has a grand, deep basso, and rendered the music in a most effective manner. July 11th. — We visited this morning the Cathedral of St. Paul. It is so closely surrounded by houses, half the effect of its grandeur is lost when one approaches near it. An excellent view is obtained from Black Friars Bridge over the Thames ; in truth, from all points, the magnificent ^0 SOUVENIRS OF TKAVEL. dome rises far above all other objects, like a giant sentinel watching over the city. It is of the classic style, and was built upon the site of the former church destroyed by the great fire of London ; it is in tlie form of a Latin cross ; Sir C. Wren was the archi- tect. The cathedral is five hundred feet long, one hundred in width, and four hundred from the street to the summit of the dome. Near the entrance is a statue of Queen Ann, and the pediment has the statues of St. Paul, St. Peter, and St. James. The interior is cold, gloomy, and austere ; the numerous pillars so occupy the attention, it requires some time before one becomes fully impressed with its wonderful size. There are many noble monuments within its sacred walls, and in the crypt below the bodies of illustrious men " sleep their last sleep." Of course, we looked first at the monu- ment of Nelson by Flaxman ; in the vault his body lies in a sarcophagus, which was intended by Cardinal Woolsey for Henry YIII. Nelson was an idol with the English people ; constantly have we seen statues to his memory, and memo- rials of his valor ; yet the only woman he ever loved, and whom with his last breath of life he bequeathed to his country, entreating protection for her, was left to sufl'er and to die in the greatest poverty, and his child cast forth to struggle with misery and wretchedness. Active benevolence to the being in whose veins flowed the hero's blood, would much more avail than these cold trophies to his glory. The monument to Sir John Moore, who was killed at C(/ runna, is most touching in its impression upon the beholder " lie lay like a warrior taking liis rest, With Lis martial cloak around him." THE princess's THEATRE. 61 These lines have immortalized the dying scene of that brave soldier. Then near by is the statue of Bishop Heber, the " Sol- dier of the Cross," whose victories, though bloodless, were as worthy of immortality. It is a kneeling figure by Chaiitrey. There is a statue of Howard the philanthropist, by Bacon. The expression of the face is beautiful.. Then statues to military and naval heroes, to great scholars, sur- geons, physicians, and historians. Standing beneath the great dome, the effect of the light is admirable. It seems as though the glorious heavens roofed over the Cathedral. The dome is the finest in the world, it is said, save that of St. Peter's, which I shall seme day see. At night we accompanied a party of pleasant friends to the Princess's Theatre. The play was " Sardanapalus, " writ- ten by Lord Byron, and put upon the stage by Kean. Until after the discoveries in Nineveh and Babylon by Layard, it had been deemed impossible to adapt this remarkable drama to the stage. After great study of the drapery of the sculp- ture and statuary brought thence, Kean arranged the tragedy as an acting play, having all the dresses made pre- cisely like those represented in the frescoes. The actors then studied the pose and attitudes of these figures. It really seemed as though life had suddenly entered the pictured forms of the " olden time," and they had stepped forth from their immobility, and mingled again in the bril- liant pageant of existence. The banquet scene, where the almas (or dancing girls) were introduced, was exceedingly gorgeous. Then their dress and mode of dancing were unique and picturesque. The conflagration at the finale was singularly grand and fearful. Kean and his wife filled the principal parts. The Princess's Theatre is the finest I have seen except the Opera House. CHAPTER YIII. Juhj I2th. I HAVE been truly happy for the last two days. Dear Lady Emmeline has spent them with me. When we reached London she had already gone to Dover, en route for Norway and Sweden ; but the steamer being delayed, she ran up to the city, expressly to see me^ Ah ! what a joy it was again to meet her ! Kind, affectionate, and precious friend that she has been to me for long, long years. Once more to see her had been the greatest inducement to visit England. I gave up every engagement, that we might, pass all the hours of her sojourn together. She drove us in her fine equipage through the parks, around the environs of London, and with her we revisited many of the monuments of the great city. She brought me a kind invitation from her father to spend the month of December at Belvoir Castle, but I could not accept it, for by that period we shall be in our own home. I, however, promised her to make a short visit there ere we left for the Continent. Lady Emmeline had been a great wanderer since we parted by the ^' shores of the Mexican sea." She had trav- elled through Mexico, had crossed the Isthmus of Panama, had been upon the Andes, in the Islands of the West Indies, LADY EMMELINE WOKTLEY. 63 in Madeira, in Portugal, and Spain. Her descriptions of all these countries were most graphic and eloquent, and for hours I listened in wrapt attention to her vivid delineations of character and portrayal of scenery. What a woman of genius she is ! What enthusiasm and energy she possesses ! Her heart is the home of every noble virtue, of every refined sentiment. How sweetly she talked of my mother and my child ! How appreciatively she spoke of America — above all, of the United States. With what pride she dwelt upon the onward progress of the Anglo- Saxon race in the New World. Although belonging to the highest rank of 'the English aristocracy, she is free from all prejudice towards our institutions. She is liberal, frank, and generous in opinion. Victoria, her sweet young daugh- ter, accompanied her, now grown to be a lovely woman, gifted, well educated, artless and unaffected in manner. She possesses a great talent for painting, and her sketch- book, containing views from many lands, is a treasure. I lingered with this dearly loved friend until the hour of her departure. Although our separation was to be brief (as we proposed meeting in six weeks), I parted from her with deepest regret and sad emotion. Most truly kind has she been, and from her cordial mention of me, all her family have united in bestowing a welcome, delightful as it has been flat- tering and gratifying. CHAPTER IX. Jub/ Ut/i. We had a delightful ride, . at early morning, to Windsor. This castellated palace is massive and majestic. It has all the elegance of modern life, and the hallowed associations of antiquity. William the Conqueror began the erection of this noble edifice, leaving its completion, however, to the sovereigns who succeeded him. After ascending a multitude of stone steps, we found our- selves in the court of the Castle, and entered thence into St. George's Chapel, built in the Gothic style, with lofty win- dows. It contains the tombs of the three last kings of Eng- land, and many celebrated personages are buried within little chapels, separated from the aisles by iron railings. At our request, the guide opened for us that of the Rut- land family. There we saw two eflBgies, representing Lord and Lady Manners de Boss, the first of the family who came over with William the Conqueror. The date upon the tomb was 1500. Immediately opposite to this monument, was that of the Wharncliffe family. In the St. George Chapel is the cenotaph of Princess Charlotte. It is a very singular monument. The body of GOBELIN TAPESTRY. 65 the Princess is presented at the moment life has left it. A covering is thrown over it, through which is seen the relaxa- tion of death, without its rigidity. Several forms are bend- ing around it, in the muteness of despair, while above them rises a form, with wings, springing upwards to heaven. The face has a mingled expression of joy and triumph. Two angels are hovering around. One holds, fast folded to its bosom, the infant of the Princess ; the other, with clasped hands, seems to lead the way to realms above. In the choir are the stalls of the Knights of the Garter, with their names on plates on the carved chairs, and their banners hanging above them. We next proceeded to the State apartments, which are splendid, from their wealth of pictures. There were many by Rembrandt, Corregio, Rubens, Van Dyke, Holbein, Claude Lorraine, ana Poussin. The Audience Chamber was panelled with gobelin tap- estry, portraying Scriptural scenes in the history of Morde- eai, of Esther and Haman. In this room is also a picture of Mary Queen of Scots, said to be the most perfect resem- blance of her in existence. There is also a small painting representing the beheading of the hapless queen. In another room the entire tragedy of Medea is woven in tapestry, from the moment of cutting down the Golden Fleece by Jason, to the last scene, where the infuriated Me- dea bears away the bodies of her children, murdered by her own hand, to revenge the infidelity of Jason. The expres- sion of these pictures is spirited and life-like. We passed through a number of picture-galleries, each bearing the naine of the painter to whose pictures it was de- voted. The Van Dyke gallery was filled with his works — many pictures of Charles the First, and his queen, Maria Henrietta, then the beauties of that reign. The " Zucca- 66 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. relH Gallery " has beautiful landscapes by this painter. In the centre of the room is a curious bed, sent to the Queen by the Grand Mogul. It has a mosqueto net over it, of the finest lace, embroidered with gold. The ball-room is superb, the walls gilded, and hung with crimson satin. The grand dining-room, called the " "Waterloo Room," is hung around with portraits of the kings of England, of Nicholas of Russia, of Richelieu, of Humboldt, of Welling- ton, of Metternich, of Blucher, of Walter Scott. Many of these paintings are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. One of our kind friends had obtained permission for us to visit the private apartments of the Queen. These are de- lightful rooms, luxuriously and tastefully furnished, with that charming home-look of comfort which seemed to per- vade all English houses, from the palace of the sovereign to the humble abode of the artisan. In one of the corridors, amid many objects of vertii, I was exceedingly interested by the pictures of Canaletto. Venice appeared absolutely be- fore us, with its palaces, bridges, churches, and gondolas. The coloring is peculiar and exquisite. In these apartments we saw the painting which represents the Coronation of Queen Victoria, and other scenes illustrative of great events in her life. There were two immense vases, presented by the Emperor of Russia; one of Malachite, and the other of China. The breakfast room was hung with tapestry, and was a most sunny, pleasant room. After seeing the kitchen, and the royal plate for the table, we went to the stables, where numerous horses were neatly housed, and particularly cared for. A true Arabian, called AzoVy sent to her Majesty by the Pasha of Egypt, was a per- fect beauty. There were carriages and sleds, from various crowned h(;ads, and vast curiosities in horse decorations. GRISI. 67 From the Great Round Tower, or Keep, there is a vic^\- of unusual loveliness. The Thames is seen, winding among towns and villages, farm-houses and elegant mansions. An excellent view is also obtained of the Castle itself, of the parks, the gardens, and of Windsor forest, once so famous. Then there is the Long AYalk, an avenue of trees, several miles in length. These trees are mostly of oak, and appear many centuries old. From the Terrace there is likewise an entrancing view. I no longer wondered that her Majesty preferred a residence here to Buckingham Palace. A short drive brought us through the great park to beautiful Virginia "Water. The artillery from the camp of Cobham were crossing it upon pontoons. These were after- wards arranged as rafts for the passage of the foot-soldiers. It was a scene of gay and animated life. The camp of Cobham was a barren, brown plain, with multitudes of tents, and soldiers in all varieties of uniforms. Near Windsor Castle is " Eton Hall," long a celebrated College. And not far off is a church entirely o'ershadowed by immense elms and yew trees, where we were told Gray wrote his " Elegy in a Country Churchyard." This elegy, always touching to the heart, is particularly so to us Ameri- cans, as the last words uttered by our great Webster were taken from this poem — " The paths of glory lead but to the grave." We returned by the railway to London, and joined a most charming party at Virey's in Regent street, where we dined ; thence drove to the Opera House, to hear Grisi in Norma. It was a gala night ; for the Queen was present, accom- panied by the King and Queen of Hanover, the Crown OS SOUVKNIRS OF TRAVEL. Prince and Princess of Prussia. The boxes were thronged with tlio aristocracy of the land — the ladies in full dress, .sparkling with jewels, and the gentlemen in ball costume. Every portion of this immense theatre was filled, and rarely have I beheld a more magnificent spectacle. For the first time I saw Grisi. "Were she not a singer, she would be one of the greatest tragic actresses of the ag<'. Nature seems to have made her for the part of Norma. 11 cr face is full of classic beauty, with wondrous eyes, so large, so lustrous — she speaks with them. I thought of the words of the old Spanish poet — "Lend me thine eyes, Ine«, That I may strike him dead." A\'iien the truth of Pollio's abandonment first possesses her soul, and she turns upon him a look of such intense scorn, he absolutely appeared to wither beneath it. She was grand and superb. The whole house was electrified by her irresistible power, her peerless acting, and loud ap- plause rang out again and again. In the opening scene, where she sings " Casta Diva," I was disappointed in her voice. There seemed a veil cast over it by the hand of Time, which one would fain remove. But when she became the loving and the jealous woman, when her proud heart swelled with the certainty of her lover\s faithlessness, the tones of her voice were clear, thrill- ing, and delicious. Mario was admirable, and Castellan, as Adelgisa, most charming. She has a delightfully pure and sweet voice. After Norma we heard " Rigoletto," a new opera, by Verdi. Many portions of the music are exquisite. There is a strain of melody which runs through it like a golden tlircad through a silken woof. The opera, in point of plot, MARY IIOWITT KOSSUTH. fiO is one of those dark and painful dramas, leaving a sad feeling upon the heart. July Ibth. — We have enjoyed the satisfaction of mak- ing the acquaintance of Mrs. Mary Howitt and her daugh- ter. I brought them a letter from a dear American friend, and have been most cordially received. They reside at the Hermitage, Highgate, and our drive there was very pleasant. Mary Howitt, as the friend and translator of the works of dear Miss Bremer, possessed for me at our first meeting great attraction, and afterwards, for herself, I truly ad- mired her. She is a delightful, frank, genial woman ; quiet and graceful in manner, and exceedingly interesting in con- versation. Her daughter, Anna Mary, is a lovely girl, an authoress, and an excellent artist. She has a sweet lisping voice, and most endearing ways, which captivate one immediately. William Howitt is in Australia with his sons. We drove to Alpha Road to visit Kossuth. After much difiiculty we found his house, but he was absent seeking a physician, as Madame Kossuth was dangerously ill. He seems to live in the plainest and most humble manner. How unjustly false were all those stories told of him — that he had appropriated the means raised for the cause of Hungary to himself, and was living in luxury. All the money was left in America, with or in the hands of a committee. Kossuth supports himself and his family entirely by the use of his pen. Pulzky and his gifted wife also live in London. A charming friend accompanied me this morning to call upon Lady Morgan, who, as the authoress of the " Wild Irish Grirl," had been long my especial admiration. We found her en grande toilette^ just departing for a •' matinee musi- 70 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. cale.-" She kindly tarried awhile, and we made a most pleasant visit. She is a remarkable woman, preserving still the vivacity of youth. Last night we were again at- the opera to hear the same admirable artists in " Lucia di Lammermuir," and thence to the mansion of the Countess of Jersey to a brilliant ball. It was a superb assemblage of the beautiful and high-born women of England. The Countess of Jersey has a noble presence and most commanding air. She is graceful and elegant in manner and gesture; the loveliest of all here, as at Buckingham Palace, at the ball, was Lady Clementina Villars. Her features are as perfect as those of " the statue that doth enchant the world ; " and, although she is pale, she is strik- ingly handsome. Even with the fear of Mrs. Malaprop before me, I must say there is more beauty among American women than I have seen in the Old World. I have met many indeed who are of great loveliness, but generally they have not the deli- cacy of form and feature seen with us. Upon entering a room in London, the first exclamation will be, " what fine, robust, healthy women these are ! " They seem to enjoy life much more than our women, and are capable of greater ex- ertion in the pursuits of literature and of art. They spend many hours in the open air, walking and riding, or driving. They have an independent, self-poised manner, which js ab- solutely delightful. They are excellently well educated, and yet the most unpretentious persons I ever saw. They are always ready to be useful, to be hospitable, and to be kind. But to return to the ball. It was splendid. The snpper was magnificent, and the hours passed most charmingly to ENGLISH WOMEN. 71 US ; for we met numerous pleasant friends, and were pre- sented to many distinguished persons, whose names are his- toric in England — to many literary people, whose works are as " household words " to us in the New World. C II A P T E E X . Juhj I8th. We have just returned from a brief visit to Belvoir Castle. Our sojourn there was really enchanting. We went do^\^ll by the Great Western Kailway to Grantham, passing through a finely cultivated country. At Grantham the carriage met us, and we soon drove through the neat little town, and entered the " green lanes of England." Trees were planted on each side of the road, and beneath them were hedges of the eglantine, mingled with jessamine and honeysuckle. The air was filled with perfume, as it came to us over the green hill-tops. Hay- makers were abroad in the fields, and women and children tossing the hay into great wagons. The day was of unusual brightness. The sky was dotted here and there with light fleecy clouds, serving as a delicate veil to the too intense radiance of the sun. I realized the true and graphic pictures of English scenery, so sweetly described by Wordsworth. There was a soft serenity about them, imparting to the mind a gentle calmness. For five miles we drove through these scenes of rural life, until we perceived the turrets of Belvoir Castle, and soon after came to the domains of the Puke of TJuthmd. Passing through ENTRANCE TO THE CASTLE. 73 a large gate, we entered a deep forest. For the moment we seemed in America, for the forests of the Adirondack or of the Alleghany mountains are not more wild and thick. The old trees, with their spreading branches, were like sen- tinels watching over the spot. We drove for some time through the deep, dark woods, and then emerged in the fer- tile farm lands of the Castle. About mid-day we reached the foot of a very high hill, upon which stands Belvoir Cas- tle. We ascended a road winding along from terrace to terrace. The immense trees met over head, and formed a Gothic arch. At last we came out into the sunlio-ht, and found ourselves at the gate of the Castle ; a noble old ba- ronial structure, built by the first Lord Manners de Ross, and called " Belvoir," signifying " beautiful view," from the glorious prospect beheld from the summit of the demi-moun- tain. The first Castle was built in 1500; the present one, however, is of more recent date. From the great door-way we passed into the entrance sa- loon, or grand vestibule, around which are figures of kni<^hts in the armor worn by members of the family in the " ancient times." Upon the walls are hung the trophies of war taken by them in battle. From thence we were ushered into the reception room, which is exceedingly magnificent. It has Buhl furniture of antique form, inlaid with precious stones, with gold, with silver and ivory. The carpet is like a bank of fresh roses. The ceiling, painted in fresco, has the portraits of all the Rutland family, and also those of royal personao-es who were friends of the Duke. In this room there is a paint- ing of the Duchess, and one of the Duke, taken shortly after their marriage. How wondrously handsome they both must have been ! There is likewise a marble statue of the Duch- ess of Rutland by Wyatt — an exquisite specimen of female beauty. " Vol. [—4 74 SOUVENIRS OF TKAVEL. This visit to Bel voir Castle was a perfect delight to me, and with what happiness did I follow my kind friends through all the gorgeous rooms and picture-galleries. At last I beg- ged they would take me to Lady Emmeline's apartments, those occupied by her when she makes Belvoir her home ; and there I seated myself to think of her, surrounded by the memorials of her elegant taste. How often had she spoken to me of these rooms, how often described the Castle to me ; and now I was within its walls, but she was in the far north land. Blessings upon her, dear and precious friend ! Every thing about the Castle is grandly superb. Most gorgeous is the banquet-room, the green drawing-room, the crimson drawing-room, the Prince Regent's gallery, built by the present Duke to receive George IV. in when he came down to Belvoir to stand godfather for the first Marquis of Granby. The library is panelled in oak and hung with green velvet. The shelves contain many American books, among them the writings of Longfellow, and of Willis, and the speeches of Webster, Clay, and Everett. The ball-room is splendid, with rows of marble pillars, and a floor made of small pieces of wood, like a Mosaic. A long gallery extends around for those who do not care to mingle in the dance. There are immense mirrors, so arranged as to reflect and nmltiply the pillars in such a manner, one seems to look through a long colonnade. The ceiling is gilded and painted in fresco. There are several picture-galleries, filled with the crea- tions of the old masters, and of those of the more modern school. There are several rare and beautiful Murillos, Gui- dos, Correggios, Titians, Velasquez; paintings of Sir Joshua lleynolds, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and of Lely; many land- scapes by Zuccarelli, by Claude Lorraine, by Poussin ; and gorgeous pictures by Rembrandt, by Rubens, and Van Dyke 75 One gallery is devoted to the full-length portraits of the lords, earls, and dukes of the family. The apartments occupied by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they visited the Castle, are magnificent. The furniture is satin, embroidered with gold, and the hangings of the chambers white satin, decorated with heavy gold fringe. The bedroom occupied by George IV. when he visited tne Castle, remains furnished in the same style as then. It is very gorgeous. At evening we ascended the turrets of the Castle. The view thence was most beautiful. Twenty-seven villages were visible amid the rich waving fields of grain and wooded slopes of the hills. One town was pointed out to me, called " Walton." Our ancestors came from Middle England, and perhaps from this very region. Of course I looked upon it with deep interest. It is a fine picturesque village ; with a population of five thousand inhabitants. The hill upon which the Castle stands is terraced on every side save one, about a hundred feet. Then begins the forest, extending like a sea of green far below its base. In the morning we drove to the village of Woodstock, where the tenants live. It was " Rent-Day," and multitudes of them were gathered in merry groups under the trees. They were dancing, and playing many games. The girls had the most lovely complexions and rosy health. The men were tall, strong, and stalwart. They seemed the very " bone and sinew of the land." The old men and women were seated beneath the elms, watching the sports of their children's children. It was a charming picture of rural life — there ap- peared such happiness, contentment, and plenty. The houses were all neat and comfortably furnished, each one with its little garden around it, while the honeysuckle and rose- vines climbed up over the " front porch." The people of these 76 60UVENIES OF TRAVEL. agricultural counties are evidently a more happy race than those who inhabit the cities or the manufacturing districts. An honest old farmer took us through his farm, and through the house, and into the kitchen, to show us the mode of life of an English peasant. We were much interested by a visit to the private apart- ments of the Duchess of Rutland. She has been dead twenty-seven years ; still her memory is fondly cherished by the Puke and by her children. The rooms remain just as they were when death claimed her. One old servant has charge of them. They are a kind of Mecca to her children, and her husband never fails to visit them on the anniversary of her death. How sweet is this cherished memory of the " loved and lost ! " A solemn feeling crept over my heart, as I stood by the bed upon which she slept her last sleep of life, and looked upon the Bible, opened where she had read her last chapter. In every portion of the Castle we saw pictures and busts of her. She was not only beautiful, but gifted as a painter, a sculptor, and a poetess. The mausoleum where the Duchess is buried, is on a hill in front of the Custle. We passed through a deep forest to reach it. The mausoleum is of Gothic form, without win- dows. At one end is the statue of the Duchess, enveloped in light drapery, with the hands raised, the face beaming with holy joy, and the form springing, as it were, lieaven- ward. Above the statue, resting amid the clouds, are her four angel-children, holding forth their hands to welcome the mother. One holds a crown, which is just near her brow. The light comes from above, and through rose-colored, or some other warm-tinted glass, giving the figures the look of life. It is indescribably beautiful, and so touching, tears came to my eyes as I looked upon them. The design of this " temple of the dead," was found among the papers of the 77 Duchess, and the Duke at once had it built precisely after the original drawing. In front of the building is a grove of ancient yew trees, supposed to have been planted long ere the family possessed these lands. The trees are of enormous size, and are absolutely gray with age. From the mausoleum we passed on to the " Duke's Walk," — a long avenue or lofty corridor cut through the trees of the forest, extending three or four miles. Not a sunbeam can penetrate the deep shade. The most delicious coolness pervades these green arcades, and it was really an effort to leave them. Belvoir Castle is one of the grandest of the princely residences of England, and I shall never forget my brief sojourn there ; or the kindness, the cordiality, and genial greeting of the Rutland family. I deeply regretted I could not accept the invitation to pass the autumn months in the Castle, when there is a gay and distinguished company assembled. When we returned to London from Belvoir, we found a friend from our far-away home awaiting us. Oh ! how our hearts and thoughts flew back over the vast Atlantic, to that dear spot of earth, where dwell the loved ones ! All was forgotten in the delightful emotions awakened by the spell- like charm of Home, and of our own country. CHAPTER XI. July I9th. Last uijrht we attended the " conversazione " of the Lord and Lady Mayoress, at the Mansion House, in the midst of the old city of London. These parties are given several times during the year, and all the notabilities, foreign and native- born, are invited. The assemblage was aristocratic, demo- cratic, artistic, and literary. The Lord Mayor stood in the centre of the reception-room, while a person in splendid uni- form announced the names of the guests as they approached. The Lord Mayor shook them cordially by the hand, and pre- sented them to the Lady Mayoress. It reminded me very much of the levees at the President's House in Washington. We lingered for a time near the host and hostess, to watch the entree of the guests. There were many thousands present, and of course among them distinguished and famous personages. Our excellent friends, the Bennochs and Cros- lands, introduced us to numerous literary and artistic per- sons, with whom we were really delighted. Martin F. Tup- per we found a most pleasant, charming man. He spoke with great appreciation of America, where he had passed some months. The handsome young Oriental, llisk Allah, the Secretary of tlie Turkish Embassy, received much attcn- DISTINGUISHED WRITERS. 79 tion. As he speaks English, he seemed a wonderful favorite with the gentler sex, whom he evidently magnetized by the glances of his lustrous and eloquent eyes. Albert Smith was full of jest and merriment ; a laughing throng were al- ways around him. Then there was Cruikshank, a queer, wild-looking person, with a nervous, quick manner, and most mirth-provoking words. Miss Pardoe and Miss Strickland were standing together, when we were presented to them. I could but think their faces and forms were types of their writings. Miss Pardoe is fresh, bright-eyed, merry and talkative. Miss Strickland is tall, formal, and stately, but with an earnest and kind manner. I was charmed with Mackay, the " Poet of the People." He has a fine face, lighted up with noble emotions of the soul. Many foreign Ministers were present ; among the most conspicuous were the Turkish Ambassador and the Greek Ambassador, in their beautiful costumes ; the Bishops of Salisbury and St. David's, and several high dignitaries of the law. Many of the leading men of England, Earl Grrey, Duke of Newcastle, Sir Charles \Yood, Mr. Joseph Hume, and D'Israeli. The Duchess of Sutherland, most superbly attired, accompanied by her son-in-law, the Duke of Argyll, attracted much admiration. There were, besides, many elegant w.omen of the aristocracy. Among the distinguished painters were Sir Charles Eastlake, Sir Edward Landseer, and Martin ; Freiligrath, the German poet, whom I had met before, and Dr. Kinkel, the German patriot ; then Harrison Ainsworth and Jordan, Dr. Bowring, the indomitable traveller, and Monckton Milnes, the poet and Member of Parliament — he has a beautiful forehead, and most expressive eyes ; Tennyson, too, with his poetic face, over which lingers a soft shade of sadness ; Dr. Southwood Smith, the philanthropist, who has done so much 80 60UVKNIHS UF TKAVEL. to ameliorate the condition of the poor of London; Sir George Head, author of the capital book, " A Bundle of French Faggots," and Mrs. Cowden Clarke, -whose work upon Shak.>urity, repose, and determination, are mingled in the expression: there were also several portraits of her. The KETURN TO PARIS. 91 gallery of Louis Philippe contains the history of the revolu- tion of July in immense pictures. I could not tear myself away from " The Enchanted Gardens," until night came and shut them from my view ; then T consented to return to Paris. AYe have just taken our first promenade in the "Imperial City." We passed down the Rue Gastiglioyie into the Place Yendome, a great square paved with flat stones, and surrounded with handsome buildings. In the centre is the " Column of Napoleon ; " it is of great height, and upon the top is the statue of the immortal Corsican. The figure is of bronze ; the costume, a military overcoat and cocked hat : the attitude is very natural. The column was built by the orders of the emperor, to perpetuate the memory of his cam- paigns in Germany, and bears the inscription, " Monument erected to the glory of the Grand Army hy Napoleon the Great?'' From the pedestal to the summit it is covered with has reliefs^ in bronze, made from the twelve hundred cannon taken in the campaigns in Russia and Austria ; they represent all the battles from the first to that of Austerlitz. There is a stairway within the column, and near the top is a balustrade, whence a splendid view of the city is obtained. An old soldier walked in front to and fro. There is a railing around and upon it, and at the door of entrance are hung hundreds of wreaths of immortelles^ and bouquets of flowers, thus showing the undying adoration for the most wonderful of men, save our own Washington. From the Place Yendome we walked through the elegant street of i^a Faix^ thence into the Boulevards. The Boule- vards are a great feature in Parisian life ; the bulwarks or ramparts of the city once occupied these streets. When Paris ceased to be a fortified city in the times of Louis XI Y. the walls were hurled down, and the ditches filled up and 92 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. planted with trees. They run nearly round the city, bearing different names at various points. The street is immensely wide, with a broad pavement, and beyond that rows of trees. It may well be said the Boulevards are " the heart of Paris." The most fashionable is the Boulevard des Italiens. There one sees magnificent houses and dazzlingly decorated shops, gorgeously embellished restaurants and cafes. Upon the pavement, or side walk, were seated hundreds of persons, talking and drinking eau sucree, or coffee. The street was thronged with carriages, and a regiment of soldiers were marching through it. All was life and enjoyment, mingled so charmingly, I could have tarried there for hours. The Boulevards are especially chosen for shops and for hotels. We drove up the gay Boulevards to the church of La Madeleine. Ah ! with what joy my eyes rested upon this " magnificent temple to the true God." The architecture is noble and symmetrical. It is built after the style of the Parthenon, at Athens, but is much larger. The building stands upon a platform, about ten feet high, and is entirely encircled by a peristyle of Corinthian columns, sixty feet high, and six in diameter. Along the walls are niches, wherein are placed colossal statues of the saints. Through the great bronze doors we entered the church. The floor is of marble, and paintings and statuary bewilder one with their beauty. Over the high altar is the exquisite statue of the Virgin, guarded by two angels. The light conies from three cupolas. There are six chapels; each has a statue of its patron saint. The high altar has a group, in which the Magdalene is represented as ascending to heaven, borne up by the wings of angels. It is lovely in design and execution, and is by Marochetti. The Madeleine was commenced in 17(j.*J. In consequence of the revolution, the building was Ht()j)t. In 1808, Napoleon detennined to change its destina- THE MADELEINE. 93 tion, and make it a " temple of glory to the grand army?'' Upon the restoration of the Bourbons, it was dedicated to St. Madeleine, and the work commenced. It was, how- ever, finished by Louis Philippe, to whom Paris owes many of its tine monuments. CHAPTEE XIII. July 2,2f7. A MOST agreeable aud polite gentleman, to whom we brought a letter, accompanied us last night to the Opera Comique. The Opera was Haidee, the music by Auber. Two acts occur on ship-board, and so perfect were all the ap- pointments, we seemed really looking upon a ship. Although the voices were none of them remarkable, yet the ensemble produced a fine efi"ect. The acting was admirable. The orchestra, consisting of one hundred musicians, was delight- ful. The house is a handsome one. Nearly all the boxes have a small saloon attached, where one can call for ices by ringing a little bell. There is a " Foyer," or large saloon, decorated with Corinthian pillars, and well furnished, where persons promenade between the acts. This is a most charm- ing arrangement. We met there a number of our English acquaintances, who, now that the season in London is over, are coming by hundreds to Paris. This has been a glorious day. We began it by a walk in the Gardens of the Tuileries, just in front of our hotel. They are of immense size, and laid out by Le Notre in the reign of Louis XIV. Tliere are multitudes of trees growing so near each otlier that not one ray of sunlight invades the LA PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 95 deep shade. There are broad walks and lovely flower par- terres, great circular basins from whose centre spring up shin- ing pillars of water. There are fine statues and antiques and vases. Every portion of the ground is filled, and perfect taste and harmony prevail in all the arrangements of fountains, of flower-beds and of statuary. These gardens are directly in front of the Palace of the Tuileries, and are open to all the world. They are constantly filled. There are children with their nurses, young women and old ones with their pet dogs care- fully muzzled, well-dressed ladies, and dandyfied-looking men, small soldiers and tall grenadiers. Chairs are placed under the trees, and rented for a few sous. Thus many poor work- ing-women spend all the day here, embroidering or knitting. The open air seems the special delight of the French people. Oh ! how enjoyable are these public gardens, free alike to the rich and the poor. From the Gardens of the Tuileries we passed on to La Place de la Concorde^ once called Place de la Pevolution, where the lovely Marie Antoinette perished by the guillotine — where Louis XVI., Madame Elizabeth, and many of the nobles of France met the fate of the hapless queen. Swiftly through my mind were wafted the scenes of those terrible days. But now, how magnificent is the view ! The wide world has not, I am sure, its equal. On every side splendid monuments meet the eyes : the noble Palace of the Kings, to the east, rising above the groves of the garden ; on the west the Champs Elysees, and beyond them the graceful out- line of the Triumphal Arch. Terminating the Pue Poyale was the classic and majestic Madeleine, while across the River Seine the marble palace, called the Chamber of Deputies, was visible. In the centre of " La Place de la Concorde " is the grand obelisk of Luxor. It is of red granite, and was brought from 96 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. Egypt during the reign of Louis Philippe. It stood before the Temple at Thebes, where it was placed fifteen hundred and fifty years before the birth of our Saviour, by the great Sesostris. The difiiculty and expense of fetching it to France were incredible. " Cleopatra's Needle " was also given to the French Government by the Viceroy of Egypt, but it still remains there. The two fountains, dedicated to the sea and river navigation, are of vast circumference. They are surrounded by tritons and nereids, who hold large dol- phins, whence gush streams of water, falling in feathery spray. At intervals around the '' Place de la Concorde," are figures representing the important cities of France. Then there are columns, and groups of statuary, all uniting to form a picture of unparalleled magnificence. At the E ond Pont, a fountain just at the beginning of the Champs Elysees, we took a carriage and drove along the avenue of those " Elysian Fields." We passed the Palace of In- dustry, now rising to its second story. It will be an enormous structure. It is in the midst of a grove. We wandered for some time amid the trees of the Champs Elysees, and then, gradually ascending one mile, we came to the Arc de Triumphe de VEtoile. This is indeed one of the grandest monuments of Paris. It is worthy of Napoleon, who laid the foundation, though it was completed by Louis Philippe. It is a single arch, ninety-six feet in height, while the entire structure rises one hundred and sixty-two feet. The pediment, the frieze, and the panels, are covered by immense figures in has relief, representing great events in the history of France. There is one of War, calling the people to battle ; another of Vic- tory, crowning Napoleon ; another of Fame, sounding forth his warlike deeds to all nations. Within the arch are re- corded all his victories, and the names of his generals. We ascended two hundred and eighty steps to the sum- THE CIiAPt:L OF ST. FERDINAND. 97 mit of the arcli, and thence the view was grandly magnificent. Taris was spread out beneath us like a chess-board, with all its columns of triumph, its noble churches, its winding streets, its narrow alleys, the Seine (the shadow of a river), with its bridges, and beyond it the great dome of the Inva- lids; far away, Montmartre and the City of the Tombs, Pire la Chaise. Then the forts and encircling walls, along the Champs Elysees, the gay equipages en route for the Bois de Boulogne. After leaving the Arch of Triumph, we went to the Chapel of St. Ferdinand, built upon the spot where the Duke of Orleans was killed by a fall from his carriage. It is a small building, very like a mausoleum. The Prince was taken into the house of the grocer Lecordier, where he ex- pired in a few hours. The property was bought by the fam- ily, and this chapel erected. Near the altar is a marble group. It represents the Duke just as life is departing, while, kneeling at his head, is an angel, with the hands raised to heaven, and a divine expression of supplication in the beau- tiful face. This angel was the work of his sister, the Prin- cess Marie, who died some years before her brother. Little did she imagine, when her hands wfere moulding this figure, that it would give a touching grace to his tomb. In a room near by there are two clocks ; one was stopped at the hour he fell, and the other at the moment of his death. On an- other altar is an exquisite statue of the Virgin and Child, and a Descent from the Cross, by Triquetti. In the rear of the altar is the very room in which he died. There is in it one of the most pathetic pictures I ever beheld. The paint- ing represents the last moments of the Duke. He is lying on the kitchen-floor, his breast uncovered, and the pallor of death stealing over his features. His father and family are kneeling around him, while Marshals Gerard and Soult, and Vol. I.— 5 98 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. several others, btaud around in deep despair. One figure of the mourning group touched my very heart. It was that of tlic Queen Amclie. Her face was buried in her handker- chief; but the form, the hands, the attitude, were so pre- cisely like my own dear mother's, I could not restrain my tears. Thus had I seen her, bowed in the anguish of her stricken soul, beside the dying-bed of her own noble and gifted son. In the yard we saw a tree, planted by the Count de Pg^is. It was brought from Lebanon by the Duke, and . is one of the cedars famed in sacred history. From the Barriere de VEtoile we drove to Neuilly, once the summer-palace of Louis Philippe. It is now an entire ruin, having been destroyed during the revolution which made the Orleans family exiles from their native laud. Their dead only remain. From mournful Neuilly we continued our drive to the Wood of Boulogne.. There, amid green avenues and shady walks, we passed some hours. It was a bright afternoon, and thousands of persons were out in handsome equipages, or on horseback. All had a smiling, happy, and contented look, as though the air were champagne, and they had been drinking in deep draughts. There is really a most exhila- rating effect in the atmosphere of Paris. . One feels so buoy- ant and gay-spirited — so free from care. Bulwer has said, " There is nothing so contagious as enthusiasm ; " well can I paraphrase the expression and exclaim, " There is nothing more contagious than happiness." Thus the sunny light upon every face seemed reflected within our own hearts. Returning to Paris quite late, we dined with a dear, kind friend at the Trois Frcres. The dinner was sumptuous and exquisite, the wines delicious, and the fruits most excellent. Thence we went to the Frangais near by (also in the Palais Royal). This theatre has been the scene of the great tri- THE LOUVKE. 99 uniplis of Rachel. In the graceful, elegant, and natural act- ing of Madeleine Brohau, we ceased to remember the weari- ness of a long day of "sight-seeing." It was midnight, and the Boulevards were losing their merry throngs, as we passed through them to our hotel. July 24th. — All this day have we spent in the Louvre. Its architectural beauty is very great, and worthy of the gems it encloses. In historic as well as artistic interest, the Louvre is without a parallel. During the reign of Francis I. this palace was built, from the designs of Pierre Lescot. It was said Titian, the great painter, gave man}^ suggestions to the monarch and to the architect. For centuries it was the home of the sovereigns of France. There lived the cruel Catherine de Medici, and the beautiful Diana de Poitiers, the lovely Mary, queen of Scotland, then the happy wife of the French King. At one of the windows stood Charles IX. during the massacre of St. Bartholomew, when the blood of the Huguenots flowed like a dark stream beneath it. Num- berless hands have toiled, and untold wealth has been lav- ished upon it; but unto the present Emperor, the energetic, the wise, and bold ruler of the nation, has fallen the happy privilege of its completion. It is a gorgeous structure, grand and imposing. The Museums of the Antiques are on the ground-floor. There we saw the Venus de Milo, which, although mutilated, is still of exceeding beauty. It is supposed to be the work of Phidias. Passing through these rooms of the statuary of many countries, we came to the grand marble staircase, and thence proceeded along the Gallery of Apollo, to the square room called, I think, the " Murillo Room," from the master- piece of that artist. In the centre of the apartment is a large velvet divan. Upon this I seated myself, and was soon lost in the contemplation of that most admirable of all pic- 100 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. tures, "The Conception," by Murillo. The Virgin is rising with clasped hands to heaven. The crescent moon is at her feet, while the air around seems filled with angel-children. But, ah ! the loveliness of the face is beyond the words of description. It filled my whole soul with its beauty, touch- ing a chord of memory which vibrated through my heart with a mournful cadence. The face of my child, now among the angels of God, was like this. The picture was brought to France by Marshal Soult, and, although the Spanish Govern- ment offered to buy it at any price, it still remains the gem of the gallery. In this Salon Carre are the most rare and precious paintings. " The Marriage of Cana," by Paul Veronese, is maornificent ; it fills an entire side of the room. The " Vir- gin and Child," by Carlo Dolce, the " Sleeping Venus and Cupid," the paintings of Titian, of Raphael, of Correggio, of Guido Rene, and of many other of the great masters. From this room of treasures, we" passed into the grand gallery, uniting the Louvre to the Tuileries ; it is more than thirteen hundred feet in length, and is well lighted. The walls are entirely covered with pictures of all centuries since the art was known, until the present time. There are many of Rubens and Rembrandt, of Salvator Rosa and Claude Lorraine; in truth, the creations of the artists of all nations are here to be seen. There were many artists taking copies of the great pictures, among them were a number of young girls, graceful and prett3^ Some were perched midway be- tween the floor and ceiling on large step-ladders, and as we passed, looked down upon us with their loving dark eyt)s, in a most attractive manner. There are several large rooms filled entirely with the works of the French masters. David is there in his full per- fection ; Napoleon is the presiding genius of all his pictures. THE DAUGHTER OF BARON GROS. 101 He portrays him always grand, majestic, and unequalled. There were two exquisite pictures of Horace Vernet, " The Departure," and '' The Return." The " Psyche " of Gerard was beautiful, so chaste and pure in conception, and perfect in execution. Paul Delaroche is eminently an historical painter ; his picture of the " Death-bed scene of Queen Elizabeth " is very striking, although I preferred the Saint Cecilia playing upon an organ held before her by an angel. The expression of the face is calm and seraphic, and the drapery falls around the form in folds of delicate grace. Eugene de la Croix is a bold and original artist; his " Cleopatra " is an admirable painting, also his " Dante and Virgil crossing the lake which encircles the Infernal City." There was a splendid portrait of Napoleon the Great by the Baron Gros ; his Battle of Eylau is magnificent. There is a wild, strange story told of the daughter of Baron Gros, who absolutely worshiped the Apollo Belvidere. It was during the period of its sojourn in the gallery of the Louvre. She was a dreamy and enthusiastic girl, and would sit for hours gazing upon the peerless statue, as though she could vi- talize that marble bosom by the influence of her own burning and impassioned love. Each day she came with wreaths of flowers, which she laid at its feet. One evening she did not return, and when they sought her, she was leaning against the pedestal, her face hidden by her hands ; she made no answer to the repeated calls, and at last, upon touching her, they found her dead ; utterly lifeless and cold, as the marble god of her adoration. Years passed by, and her father, honored, rich, and beloved, threw himself into the Seine. Thus madly perished both daughter and father. " The Wreck of the Medusa," by Gericault, is a fearful picture of suffering and despair. 102 SOUVENIES OF TRAVEL. We wandered through gallery after gallery, the ceilings arched and painted in fresco, and perfect treasures of once buried art within them ; the Etruscan vases, and adorn- ments, Egyptian, Assyrian, Grecian, and Roman statuettes, images of gods, and objects of vertii. In the centre of each room is a railing, and within it an immense vase, either of porcelain or of Sevres china, of malechite, or of lapis lazuli. There are also rooms containing paintings upon china. In the " hall of jewels," are glass vases of precious stones, and the silver and gold cups used by the church even in the time of Charlemagne ; then the toilet mirror sent by the republic of Venice to Marie de Medici. Our friend P., who had so often told me of the glories of the Louvre in our far-away home, was my cicerone to the Imperial Museum, recently established by the order of Louis Napoleon. It contains many articles which were once worn by the different sovereigns ; of the great Napoleon there are many relics; his swords, his camp-bed, his writing-desk, his chair^ the hat he wore at St. Helena, the cradle of the King of Rome, the handkerchief taken from the death-bed ; his shoes, his clothes, his service of silver, used in his campaigns ; all these articles are preserved as sacred in glass cases. There were fans of Marie Antoinette, jewels of Marie Louise; indeed some articles of personal use belonging to nearly all the sove- reio-ns of France. But among them all, there was not one relic of the good and gracious Josephine. These treasures of sculpture, of painting, and of art, are open to all strangers ; by showing one's passport, free admission is given. After leaving the Louvre, we went into the " Place du Carrousel," whit^ takes its name from the tournament held here by Louis XIV. in 1662. In the centre is a triumphal arch raised by Napoleon in 1806. It is in imitation of the arch of Septimus Severus at Rome. The bronze horses from IMPK0VEMENT3 IN PARIS. 103 the Piazza of St. Mark, were once placed upon this arch, but restored to Venice by the allies. Within this great square or place, it is said more than one hundred thousand soldiers can manoeuvre. It is magnificent, and the vast structure which surrounds this area, seems as impenetrable as a fortress. The improvements progressing in Paris are wonderful in extent and variety ; in almost every direction houses are be- ing torn down to widen the streets ; thousands and thousands of men are at work in the employment of the government ; they are well-fed, and have no time for revolutions. Never was France more prosperous, and Louis Napoleon will soon be as dear to the French nation as was the great Napoleon. An old countess relating to me the horrors of the republic, the instability of all possessions, and the languor of commerce, exclaimed as though from her soul, " Thank Grod, the repub- lic has ended, and we now have the strong arm of an Emperor to sustain us." Of course, there are many turbulent spirits still at work, but so truly does Louis Napoleon seem to know tbe interests of France and to advance them, that he will yet make her the greatest power of Europe. In the afternoon we visited the " Palais Koyal," once the property of Louis Philippe. It was first called the " Palais Cardinal," and was built by Kichelieu, and by him given to Louis XIII. Anne of Austria and her infant son Louis XIY. lived there. It came into the hands of the Orleans family through Mademoiselle de Blois, who married the Duke of Orleans ; it was given her as a dowry by her father Louis XIY. Philip Egalite changed the vast gardens into shops and cafes. It was for a long period the home of Louis Philippe and his family. The portion called the "Palace" is now occupied by Prince Jerome Bonaparte and his son Prince Napoleon. The garden of the " Palais Royal " is surrounded by 104 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. galleries, and planted with trees ; in the centre is a fountain, and many fine statues around it ; the houses are all of uni- form architecture. There is a broad gallery under the lofty arcades, and from it one looks into shops of glittering brightness, filled with imitation jewels so radiant, the true can scarcely be told from the false. Then there are shops where the fruit is piled up into mimic mountains, most luscious and beautiful ; then fishes of all descriptions, and giant lobsters, and their miniatures, craw-fish, stupendous crabs, like those seen in the fossil remains of the antediluvian world. Beyond this gallery, hundreds of chairs are placed, and tables, where groups are sitting taking ices or cofi'ee. The band was playing, and crowds of people were thronging in, some to dine, (for in the "Palais Eoyal"are the most famous restaurants,) some on " pleasure bent," and many to watch the gambols of their children, who were rolling hoops or jumping the rope. There was an air of enjoyment, of self-content about every one, which was delightful. Galleries roofed over with glass are very numerous. They are well paved with square stones, and have small shops on each side, tended by neatly dressed shopwomen, very smiling and attractive. These galleries are a charming promenade in wet weather, and in winter are warmed, there- by afi'ording comfort to thousands of poor wretches, who are without firewood at home. When all the lamps were lighted the efi'ect was brilliant. The gardens and the cafes have been for many ages the favorite resort of politicians. The Club of Jacobins were wont to meet here ; likewise those of the Girondists, and the Dantonists. We ended our day by a dinner at Very\s. CHAPTER XIY. " Juhj Ihih. We spent some hours in the grand and magnificent Cathe- dral of " Notre Dame de Paris," whose history is interwoven with the greatest events of Parisian life, since the days of Julius Caesar. " The Parisiaci " were supposed to have erected upon this spot an altar to Jupiter, which was cast down by the early Christians in the reign of Yalentinian I. St. Stephen built a church here about 365. Victor Hugo, in his " Notre Dame de Paris," has given an admirable description, of the sculptured figures on the Grand Portal. There are two towers of great height. The architecture is Gothic, and its size stupendous. The view upon first entering the Cathedral is surpassingly fine. The vaulted roof is sustained by numerous pillars, and a perfect harmony of efi"ect pervades the whole sanctuary. Beneath the side aisles the ceiling is of azure, studded with golden stars. There are fine paintings and noble statues. Near the grand altar are twelve pictures representing scenes in the life of our Saviour. They are said to be of great value. In front of the altar is a star in the marble pave- ment. It marks the spot where stood Napoleon and Jose- phine at their coronation. The walls of " Notre Dame " then Vol. I.— 5* 106 SOUVENIRS OF TKAVEL. resounded with the song of triumph, and never before had Paris beheld a spectacle of such matchless splendor. For ten centuries no monarch had ever been crowned by the Pope of Rome. Even Charlemagne went to Rome to re- ceive the crown. But, for Napoleon, (whose will was as resistless as the inevitable,) his Holiness came to Paris. At tlie same altar too, only a few months ago, was the marriage ceremony of Louis Napoleon and the lovely Eugenie. In one of the side chapels are preserved the coronation robes of Napoleon the Great, also those worn upon that occasion by the Pope. They showed us likewise the robes and decorations of the Cardinals and Bishops when the body of the Emperor was brought from St. Helena, and laid in the chapel of the " Hotel des Invalids." They are all of black velvet, most gorgeously embroidered with silver. Near the Cathedral we were pointed out the site of the Bishop's Palace, which was destroyed in 1848, soon after the mob had murdered the Bishop of Paris in the streets. The " Hotel Dieu," the most ancient hospital in the city, is just across the river. Philip Augustus endowed this institu- tion, and gave it the name of " House of God." As we drove away we passed the " Morgue," a dark, plain edifice, near the bank of the Seine. Sad emotions possessed us as we looked upon this dread and last refuge of the guilty, the broken-hearted, and the betrayed. Upon stone tables the bodies are laid, and a small stream of water, like a bright thread, constantly falls upon them. The clothes are hung near them, by which means they are often recognized. There were at our visit three victims to " in- exorable fate." One was a woman, whose thin, meagre form told of poverty and despair — another a strong man, with his death-wound upon the broad breast. The other was a youth, with delicate limbs and small hands. All had been HALDE AUX VINS. 107 fished out of the Seine that morning, and none had yet come to seek or to claim them. They told me seven or eight were the usual number brought there each day. A feeling of such deep gloom hung around me for hours after- wards, that I truly regretted having made this fearful " Morgue " one of the " sights of Paris." We crossed the " Pont Neuf," a splendid bridge over the Seine. Upon it is the statue of Henry lY. This statue is deemed the finest in Paris. It is fourteen feet high, and is adorned on the sides of the pedestal with bas reliefs. These portray events in the life of the King. The view of Paris from this bridge is very remarkable. Great stone embank- ments are built up to the level of the city, between which flows the diminutive river. On each side of the banks are paved " quays.' Then in every direction are the " monu- ments " of the city ; the green forests of the Tuileries ; the beautiful " Champs Elysees," and the glorious " Place de la Concorde." The Pont Neuf passes over the end of an island in the Seine, called " He de la Cite." This is a quiet, quaint old portion of Paris. Along the quays we drove past the " Halle aux Vins," (the wine market,) where all wines are kept. It is divided into streets, named after the various wines. The buildings are very numerous, and are surrounded by an iron railing, within which are the offices and counting-rooms of the merchants. Beyond these markets we came to the Jardin des Plants. — Louis XIII. established this gar- den, in 1635. It is of vast dimensions, and is planted with trees, in great avenues. There is a " Menagerie," contain- ing animals from the four quarters of the globe. There are dens for the lions, and other ferocious beasts, small huts for the more gentle species, surrounded with an enclosure of wire, wherein are planted shrubs and trees. There is a large 108 SOUYENIRS OF TRAVEL. stone building for the monkeys, with a circular space in front, covered over with a network of wire. Around this hundreds of people (for it was a fete day) were gathered, laughing with delight at the gambols of the monkeys, who went through a variety of curious performances. One more gifted than the rest, after looking very cunningly upon the audience, climbed to the top of the pavilion and rang a bell, whereupon shouts rent the air, and fruit was held out to re- ward him, when he sprang down and accepted it in a dignified manner. In a large circular building are the elephants, giraffes, and the enormous hippopotamus from the Nile. Although he was in his bath, he came forth at the call of the keeper, and displayed himself to us. There were several majestic lions and lionesses, many fearful-looking tigers and hyenas, South and North American eagles, gentle gazelles, and timid deer. Of birds, there were endless varieties — of snakes, of turtles and tortoise. In a deep pit, surmounted by an iron railing, were polar bears, pacing to and fro incessantly ; they seemed less content than the other animals. In a small en- closure, overshadowed by noble trees, were a number of ostriches, seemingly as content as though in their own sandy deserts. The Botanical Gardens are exceedingly fine, and the con- servatories of vast dimensions, and filled with exquisite trop- ical flowers and plants ; among them the palm trees, as luxu- riant as those of Cuba. We merely glanced at the Gallery of Comparative Anat- omy, rendered so celebrated by the labor of Cuvier, then on through the rooms with the preserved specimens of zoology, to those containing the specimens of mineralogy and geology. The quartz crystal, presented by Napoleon, while he was with the army in Italy, is beautiful. THE WINTER GARDEN. 109 The Library is very extensive and rich, not only in books, but in original drawings upon vellum. After seeing all the wonders of the gardens, we walked for some time beneath the great avenues, and lingered near the " Cedar of Lebanon," which was planted here in 1734. It has great wide-spreading branches, making a deep shade beneath them. At night we went to a concert at the " Jardin d'Hiver," (the Winter Garden.) This is an immense structure of glass and iron, most tastefully arranged. There is a perfect forest of tropical trees and flowers. Large orange trees, in full blossom, gave out a delicious perfume, while the broad-leafed banana, the cactus, the yucca, and the palm tree, were green- ly luxuriant. There were grottoes, and fountains, cool lake- lets, and aviaries filled with bright-hued birds. Where wood-work was necessary in the formation of the building, it was hidden by giant mirrors, whose frames were covered by creeping plants. Throughout the garden, there was a soft, subdued light, though the concert-room was blazing with multitudes of fantastically- shaped gas-burners. The music was not very charming, so we preferred wan- dering amid the rich and rare exotics. July 26th. — At early morning we entered the " city of the dead," Fere la Chaise, with its streets, squares, and ave- nues. For one mile ere we reached it, the way was lined on .either side by shops, with wreaths of " Immortelles," and small plaster figures to place on the tombs. The cemetery takes its name from Pere la Chaise, who was Confessor to Louis XIV., and occupied a religious house of the Jesuits, built upon the summit of the hill. By the order of Napoleon it was converted into a burial-place, and the grounds laid out by Brongniart. It is planted with cypress trees, and flowering shrubs. Many of the tombs are like miniature 110 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. chapels. There are altars, and within them paintings, lamps, and sacred relics. A grated door reveals the interior. Then there are obelisks, urns, columns, mausoleums, and temples. An iron railing encircles them, wherein are growing beautiful flowers. Leaving the principal avenue, we came to the tomb of " Abelard and Heloise," formed out of the ruins of the " Abbey Paraclete," where Abelard was abbot. It is an arched roof, sustained by pillars. Under it the forms of the two lovers are lying, side by side, more happy in that sculp- tured repose, than in their burning and tumultuous life. Wreaths and flowers were in abundance upon their resting- place. How truly does this manifest that love, of all pas- sions, awakens the deepest sympathy in every heart, and is thus held sacred through all the " changes and chances of time." A long walk, almost like a gallery of statuary, contains the monuments of Napoleon's brave generals — Cambeceres, Massena, Suchet, Junot, Decres, Mouge, Foy, Le Febvre ; but for the gallant and ill-fated Ney there was no urn or col- umn to mark his resting-place on earth, — the spot is enclosed, and a few flowers are blooming within it. Passing on, we came to the tombs of La Fontaine and of Moliere, then of Talma, of Racine, of Mme. de Genlis, of Bellini, of Casimir Perier, and of Bernardin St. Pierre. At every step we looked upon the tomb of some poet, warrior, orator, or historian. There is a magnificent mausoleum of the Princess Demidofi". Although so grand, it had a lonely look about it, for not one wreath or flower was placed upon the marble columns. We were especially interested in a nameless monument, of faultless grace and execution. Around it was an exr quisite little garden of rare flowers, and wreaths and crowns THE CHILD'S GRAVE. Ill of immortelles were hanging within it. Whose was it ? None could tell. No name revealed who slept beneath. The flowers were tended, and the wreaths brought there by the gardener, who was liberally paid for his services. From the summit of the hill, near the chapel, is a glori- ous view of Paris, with its domes, its spires, its arches, its columns of triumph, stretching far away, till lost in the dim distance. From the gorgeous monuments of the rich, the gifted, and the noble, we came to the burial-place of the poor. It was on the side of the hill, and so thronged was this last rest- ing-place, that only a few inches were permitted between each grave. Here I was far more touched by the simple memorials of affection, than amid the almost regal magnifi- cence above. There was one grave of a child; the little marble slab, containing* its name, was covered with a glass case, as though the fond mother would guard her darling's tomb erven from the dews of heaven. Within that glass enclosure were many of its play-things and toys. These were the parent's most cherished relics, and as such she had placed them there. Fast fell my tears as I looked upon it, and memory wandered to that far-distant land, where sleep my own precious treasures, in the cold security of the grave. To the French may well be awarded the honor of being the first to embellish and idealize, with beautiful tokens of love, the place where the " wicked cease from troubling, and the weary are at rest." Although " Pere la Chaise " is rich in mausoleums, in obelisks, and grand columns, it has not the beauty of " Mount Auburn " or of " Greenwood." There are no deep woods, where the mourner can seek the luxury of solitary grief; no quiet dells, where the troubled spirit can sigh to rest forever. These, and many other charms of nature, both " Greenwood " and " Mount Auburn " possess, 112 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. but in this ." Necropolis " are the pride and the glory of the \s'orld, lingering even in the " valley of death." The long visit to " Pere la Chaise " rendered me quite unsuited to the gay tumult of Paris life, so we spent the evening quietly and sadly in our own apartments. "Ever and anon, of griefs subdued There comes a token " — and to-night, the fountain of sorrow is welling up its bitter waters ; wave after wave of anguish is sweeping over my soul. 'Grief treads heavily, and leaves behind A deep impression, e'en when it departs ; While joy trips by, with steps as light as wind, And scarcely makes one trace upon our hearts." We went this morning to the " Hotel de Cluny," and the " Musee des Thermes," which are now united into one institution. The " Palais des Thermes " was once the resi- dence of the Emperor Julian, and the " Hotel de Cluny " was built near it, by an abbot of that name, in 1480. It has been variously occupied, once by King James, of Scotland, then by the Cardinal of Lorraine. Afterwards a troupe of comedians purchased it. Marat held his meetings there; and at last it became the property of Sommerard, an enthusias- tic antiquarian, who formed a valuable collection of the objects of art in the middle ages. The government bought it from his heirs, and made it a " Museum of National Anti- quities," There were wonderful curiosities in elaborate carving, of ebony. The buffets and wardrobes were numer- ous, and most exquisitely wrought. Many articles of furni- ture, used in those ages, have been gathered here. "We saw the bed of Francis I. It is not a repose-inviting couch. Then we also saw the beds of many great cardinals, and of STOCKBROKEES AND MEKCHANTS EXCHANGE. 113 princes. There are paintings, religious orcftiments, and tapestry portraying the history of David and Bathsheba ; also many objects belonging to the toilette. Under the " Palais des Thermes," is the oldest monument of Paris. It is the '■^ frigidrium^^ or the chamber for the cold baths. There is a curious chapel in the Hotel of Cluny. The ceiling is sustained by a round pillar. Crosses and altar pieces are seen there. From this turreted old building we drove to La Bourse. This is a magnificent edifice for the meeting of merchants, and for the transactions in the funds. It is almost square, and is entirely surrounded by Corinthian columns. The " Salle de la Bourse " is an immense room; the stockbrokers and merchants assemble there. We went up in the gallery above, and looked down upon the vast throag. Every one seemed to be speaking and gesticulating at once, and the roar of the voices in that vaulted room was like the rushino- sound of some great cataract. Far beyond "La Bourse" we heard it. Fortunes are made and lost within its walls. When the affairs of the day are ended, the result is struck off, and men walk through the streets, screaming out " Cours de la Bourse," " Cours de la Bourse." CHAPTEE XY. From the noisy and tumultuous " Bourse," we passed over the Seine to the Palace of the Luxembourg, which bears upon a marble tablet this inscription : ^^ Palais de la Cham- hre des Pairs.^\ The Luxembourg was built by the orders of Marie do Medici, to resemble as much as possible the Pitti Palace of her native Florence. It is a noble and magnificent edifice and rich within from its picture-galleries, its statues, and its frescoes. The rooms are lofty and gorgeously gilded speci- mens of the " Renaissance " style. Rubens painted scenes descriptive of the entire life of Marie de Medici, at least of her life of triumph ; (for the last closing scene, in the dim, dark garret, is not recorded.) These pictures, however, were removed to the Louvre. But in the bedchamber of Marie de Medici, there is a painting upon the ceiling by Rubens, of the Queen. This chamber is superbly decorated. Near it is a chapel, remarkable only for a statue of Fenelon. The " Salle de Seances," or the Chamber of Peers, (when France possessed them) is a splendid room. The galleries of pictures of the modern school, by Vernet, by DelarochCj by Roqueplan, and others, are effective and brilliant. Those of Vernet revel in all the glories of the campaigns of Napo- HISTORICAL MEMORIES. H^ leoo. An admirable writer lias styled his era the " Modern Iliad." . , • . The Luxembourg awakened many historical memories, most pleasant to dwell upon. It was there the brave Mme. rvoland uttered many a solemn truth; there Mme. TalUen, in whose faultless form and face neither sculptor nor pamter could find one defect, was wont to hold licr court ; and Mme. Josephine de Beauharnais often wandered amid these lovely ff-irdcns where the fountains threw up sparkling columns, and the graceful statues seem to play " hide and seek " amid the luxuriant trees. •, -r, ., ^ rru:. From the Luxembourg we went to the Pantheon. This buildinc. was intended to be a kind of " Westminster Abbey," a place°for the burial of the illustrious dead ; hence the m- scription, beneath the figure of France, " A grateful Country to its Great Men." The interior is very fine. The dome was painted by Baron Gros. It represents the monarch^ of France rendering homage to Saint Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. In the crypt, or vaults beneath, are the tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau, and of many other distinguished "^'"in our drives we often passed the tower of " St. Jacques de la Boncherie." Upon that spot there was once a church of the same name. It was destroyed in the days of the revo- lution The tower is very high, and of elegant proportions Not far from this relic of Gothic architecture, is the Hotel de Ville This is the Mansion House, or Municipal Hall of Paris where the " Prefect de la Seine " resides, and where the authorities give their grand entertainments. It is upon the " Place de la Gieve," famous in the " Bcign of Terror for the cruel murders committed there. The " Hotel de Ville " is a large building with towers and turrets; the exterior is not striking, but the interior is- 116 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. splendid. There are several courts, or vestibules ; that of Louis XIV. is magnificent. The staircases are of marble, and many of the rooms are exceedingly gorgeous — above all, the ball-room ; it has Corinthian pillars, with gilt capitals and cornices ; the ceiling is painted in fresco, and the furniture is exceedingly rich. Then the " Throne-Room " is immense, and superbly decorated ; there Robespierre held his court, and at one of its windows the good La Fayette presented Louis Philippe to the people in 1830. Poor Louis XVI., too, was compelled to appear at another window with a liberty cap upon his head, in the days of the Revolution. Thus this noble apartment may be styled " The Historical Chamber." There are a great number of rooms, all spacious, and orna- mented with paintings, rich hangings, and statuary. Among the many delightful " specialit^s " of Paris is the Flower-Market, in the Place de la Madeleine, just near the noble church. In our walks and drives, we often stopped to admire the variety of flowers. The merchants were all women, seated near their fragrant wealth, and urging every one to buy. There were quantities of flowers growing in jars and vases, and multitudes of bouquets, which the vendors were twining and tying up most tastefully. Tl\ie finale of our day was a visit, with a party of friends, to the Opera Comique, to hear " L'Ambassadrice." Caroline Dupres sustained the principal role. She has a sweet though not a powerful voice. But the mise en scene, the appoint- ments of the piece, were admirable. The instant the curtain falls, numerous criers of the evening journals scream out in the most ear-piercing tones, " La Presse ! " " La Patrie ! " " L'Entre-Acte." Those who remain in their seats purchase a paper, and quietly read it. The others seek the " Foyer," where they meet groups of friends, eat ices, or drink eau sucres, until the warning bell recalls them to the music. PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 117 There they seem perfectly absorbed in it ; for not a whisper is heard during the performance. July 27th, — We spent some hours of the morning in the Palace of the Tuileries, which was begun by Catherine de Medici, in 1564, but never completed, in consequence of the prediction of an astrologer, who bade her " Beware of that portion of Paris." Henry IV. continued the building. All the kings who came after him made additions and improvements. During the Revolution fearful scenes were enacted there. The Palace is more remarkable for its great length and breadth, than for any peculiar architectural beauty. The roofs and chimneys are very high. We entered by the Pavilion of Flora, and passed en- tirely through the various saloons and private apartments. There were many fine paintings of the modern style, curious ornaments, mosaic tables, immense clocks, lustres of rock- crystal, and exquisite vases of Sevres china. The "Pavilion de I'Horloge" is exceedingly spacious. Within it is the Salle des Marechaux. From this we came to the " Gallery of Louis Philippe," which is used as a ball-room. It is very elegant, and gorgeously furnished. The mirrors are of wondrous size- There is a handsome theatre in the Palace. The " throne room " is hung with crimson and gold, and contains many trophies and fine pictures. The view of the gardens of the Tuileries from the front windows of the Palace is charming. A broad avenue leads up to the Place de la Concorde, while lovely parterres of flowers are directly in front. On every side are groups of statuary, in bronze and in marble. Many of them are copies of the world-re- nowned creations of the old sculptors. The grounds are di- vided from the Hue Bivoli by an iron railing. As we lived near the Tuileries, I went every day to walk in the beautiful 118 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. gardens. It was a delight to watch the throng of happy- children, playing beneath the leafy shades. From early morning until the night came, there was always a crowd. From the " Palace of the Kings " we drove to the '' Ho- tel des Invalides," where we saw multitudes of war-worn A'eterans seated on the long stone benches in the terrace, near which were the cannon taken in battle. This admirable in- stitution was founded by Louis XIV., in 1670. It is of vast length, and covers many acres of ground. A one-armed soldier was our guide through the Hotel. In the Library we saw the painting of " Napoleon crossing the Mont St. Bernard." It is a splendid picture, awakening emotions of intense admiration for the heroic general. As we had a special permission, we were enabled to visit the Tomb of Napoleon. This is immediately under the great dome. It is a crypt, in which will be placed the sar- cophagus containing his body. The crypt is circular, with a gallery surrounding it, paved with marble. There are twelve colossal Caryatides, which support it. They repre- sent War, the Arts and Sciences, and Legislation. Directly around the tomb of red porphyry are has reliefs, portraying the most important events in the life of the Emperor. Just beyond this is a magnificent altar of black marble. Then comes the church, filled with the banners taken from the enemy. There are also within it many monuments. We passed around the gallery overlooking the porphyry sarcophagus, until we came to a small grated door, where an old maimed soldier was standing. Upon raising a curtain we saw a dimly-lighted room, in whose centre was the coffin containing the body of Napoleon. It was covered by a black velvet pall, upon which were placed his sword and hat ; around the walls hung many other articles made sacred from once having been his. The remains are kept here, PLACE DE LA BA STILE. 119 and carefully guarded by his old soldiers, until the tomb shall be finished. No Roman Emperor had ever a more magnificent sepulchre ; it will be worthy of the great Napo- leon, and equal to the adoration with which the French nation regard this wonderful man. The old veteran told us he had been with the Emperor in nearly all his battles. In one he had lost a leg, in another an arm. How radiant grew his aged face as he related some of the thrilling scenes of those days. From the '' Hotel des Invalides," we drove to the " Place de la Bastile." Upon the site of that awe-inspiring prison has arisen the " Column of July," erected by Louis Philippe to the memory of those wLo fell during the three days of July, 1830. Its height is about a hundred and sixty feet; upon the summit is a gilt globe, and on it stands a most graceful figure with wings expanded, a torch in one hand, and a broken chain in the other. It represents the " Genius of Liberty ; " the broken chain is symbolic of the destruction of tyranny, and the torch signifies "light to the whole world." As it was a fete day, we went down to Saint Cloud, by the railway, and spent a few hours amid the beautiful grounds which encircle this delightful palace. Its situation is charming, on a high hill, overlooking Paris, and the sur- rounding country, for many miles. It was the much-loved residence of Josephine, also of the ill-fated Marie Antoinette. It was there Henry III. was killed by Clement in 1589. Various historical events of importance have occurred within its walls. The crowd was immense ; the avenues and walks were filled with a happy, merry people : they seemed charmed with trifles, and in ecstasies with a party of tumblers, who had improvised a theatre beneath the lofty trees. Returning to Paris, we dined at the Maison Dor6e, in 120 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. the Boulevard des Italiens. This is a most gorgeously dee- orated restaurant. Our dinner was the perfection of the French cuisine. After it we had a long walk upon the Champs Elysees, which were brilliant with the splendid equipages of the nobility, and the gay toilettes of the women. It is impossible to imagine a more bright and joyous scene, than these promenades of a Sunday or of a fete day. We lingered until deep night, but there was no darkness, the illuminations were so numerous, all was so radiant with light. There were theatres alfresco^ where the singers were render- ing the music of the opera ; then a kind of giant windmill or merry-go-round^ where persons were seated in cars, and many riding wooden horses ; they were whirling round and round at a furious pace, seemingly as much enchanted as though mounted upon an Arabian steed. There were, too, im- promptu ball-rooms, and concert- rooms; panoramas of great battles, and restaurants " as thick as the leaves in Vallam- brosa." The general enjoyment was so contagious, I found myself laughing as merrily as the crowd, at the performance of a clown on the little stage just in front of us. Paris is certainly wonderful, and mirth-provoking ; it is entirely unique^ and every inhabitant is a study. Not far from us were seated two workmen by a little table, upon which was placed a piece of dark bread, and a bottle of claret; there was such an air of self-content about them, that we w^atched their movements ; no Emperor of Rome could have appeared more satisfied with existence than these two laborers. When they had finished their repast, one called for his bill with a loud voice, and opening a package, took out a few sous^ and paid them to the waiter ; then lighted his pipe and walked away with the look of most en- tire happiness. Beyond the gay tumult of the Champs Elysees (which DEPAETUKE EKOM PAKIS. 121 is particularly great near the avenues), there are more quiet and lovely walks, where on^ never meets a throng. Gardens and lofty trees, and open squares, with a rich greensward — elegant houses and arbors 'mid the clustering vines, " invite a long delay." The delicious fountains of the " Rond Pont " were throwing up their sparkling waters as we passed into the " Place de la Concorde." I never crossed it, and looked upon its splendor, that the thought of Marie Antoinette did not come between me and its brightness, and Charlotte Cor- day too, that brave enthusiast, was often in my mind. Now, wo have passed through the gardens of the Tuil- eries, and are once more in our own -parlor, not to rest, but to prepare for a " pleasure trip " through Belgium, and up the Ehine. AYe have been near two weeks in Paris. As those persons to whom we brought letters were absent from the city, at their chateaux, or at the watering places, we determined to devote our time to seeing all the monuments of Paris — to visiting the galleries, gardens, and theatres. Incessantly have we been occupied — delightfully so, however. At dawn we shall away to other scenes of interest, and as the numerous clocks (every room has one) have long ago chimed out the midnight, I must throw aside my pen, and seek a short repose. Vol. I._6 CHAPTER XYI. Brussels, Avr/ust 1st. At six we left Paris. The morning was serenely bright, and the country through which we passed, fertile and flour- ishing. We soon came to Pontoise, where Blanche^ of Cas- iile, was buried in 1252 ; then to lie Adam, famed as the dwelling-place of the Flcur de Marie of the "Mysteries of Paris." After entering the valley of the Oise, we saw the long village of Champagne, a name so well known to the entire world from its wine. The vines are sufi"ered to climb up the trees ; thence they wave in great festoons. They are not dipt as in all the other vineyards of the valley. Next we saw Creil, which once contained the prison of Charles VI., and Clermoni, with its church, built in the tenth century; then Am,iens, with its grand old cathedral, and its memories of the "Peace of Alliens;" and successively Arras, "the birth-place of Robespierre ; Douai, with its immense church and lofty tower ; Valenciennes, celebrated for its exquisite lace ; Lille, renowned for its Palace of Bichehourg, built in 1430; and Tournay, for its ancient cathedral. There we crossed the Scheldt, and by five o'clock wore at Brussels, in most delightful apartments in the " Belle Vue." As soon as we dined we walked out to see the city, which is really worthy of being called " a second Paris" — a minia- THE FIELD OF WATERLOO. - 123 ture resemblance of the enchanting original. The houses are built in the same style. The elegant shops are furnished alike, and the French language spoken every where, although Flemish is the native tongue. The Park is a lovely spot, shaded by immense trees, said to be a portion of the virgin forest. There are avenues and green banks of turf — sheltered walks and fountains. A band of music was playing in a pavilion, and throngs of gayly drest women and robust-looking men were sauntering beneath the '' leafy shades." The " Hotel de Ville " is a fine specimen of the Gothic architecture. The statue of the bold crusader, Godfrey de Bouillon, ornaments the " Place Royale." The " Hall of Deputies ■' has a great staircase of Belgian marble, and a handsome saloon for the meetings of the Representatives. The " King's Palace '' is a spacious building, superbly fur- nished. We found our promenade so agreeable, that dark night was around us, ere we returned to our hotel. At the Inn, on the Field of Waterloo^ August 2d. — In the early morning light we left Brussels, and drove rapidly in "a stage-coach along the highway made by Napoleon. We passed the forest of Soignes, and were soon accompanied by an escort of beggars, who, to attract our special attention, made wheels of their hands and feet, and rolled around like a velocipede. We were thus followed when in motion, but at the stopping places a circle of frightful objects, " lame, maimed, and blind," beset us with their pitiable entreaties for charity. Once upon the "■ Field of Waterloo," we could not escape a horde of guides, English and French. The former insist- ed they alone could give a true history of the battle, while the latter protested the English were too boastful to do jus- tice to the great Emperor. They almost came to blows who 124 SOUVENIES OF TKAVEL. should possess our important patronage. We \\ ere absolutely compelled to compromise the matter by taking iiuo^ thus hearing the version of each side. The plain is very level, and is covered with rich, waving fields of grain. The growth of wheat, the guide told me, was particularly luxuriant over the places where the bodies of the soldiers were buried. The " Chateau of Hougoumont " still remains in a shattered condition, and the farm of " La Haye Sainte." Several other houses, bearing the impress of the bullets, are yet preserved. The mound of the " Belgic Lion " is a pyramid of earth raised over the remains of friends and foes. It is about two hundred feet high, and has a flight of steps leading to the summit, upon which is placed an enormous lion. After walking for several miles over the fields, and listen- ing to the description of the battle from both guides, of which we must confess we understood but little, not being especially versed in military tactics, we sought the shelter of a small dwelling, wherein the owner had gathered many relics of the fight. In the quiet little porch, shaded by rose- vines and fragrant honeysuckles, I am now writing, while the rest of the party are examining rusty swords and death-dealing bul- lets. It was a balmy, delicious day, and the wind came over the fields of grain, giving them the undulating wave of the great ocean. A deep calmness and silence prevailed. " Gentle nature still pursued Her quiet course, as if she took no care For what her noblest work had suffered there." As soon as the carriage came, and our purchases of eagles, buttons, and other relics from the venders, who clustered around us like bees, were completed, we left the battle-field, attended by the same human whirligigs, and entreated, MANUFACTORY OF LACE. 125 wherever we changed horses, by the same plaintive voices, " For the love of the blessed Virgin, charity." Returning to Brussels, we dined at a most sumptuous table d'hote at the Belle Vue, aud then proceeded to the church of Saint Gudulc, built in 1435. The painted glass of the windows is very beautiful. Several are by Weyde, done in the sixteenth century. There are monuments, paintings on canvas, aud tapestry, woven most exquisitely. The pulpit is a great curiosity. It is entirely of oak, carved in an elaborate man^ ner. It is sustained by the figures of Adam and Eve, and the angel with the flaming sword. The serpent supports the canopy, while above its head is the Virgin Mary, holding the infiint Christ, and bruising the serpent's head with the cross. We visited several galleries of pictures, where we saw many fine paintings by Rubens, Rembrandt, and Jan Steen. In a private palace belonging to one of the descendants of the Spanish Princes, we were delighted with a Murillo, rich, and glowing with the peculiar light he ever throws around his pictures. Then there was an admirable Velasquez. The walls of some of the rooms were covered with Spanish leather, gorgeously gilt. Nearly all the windows upon the streets have small mirrors hanging out. They are so arranged that those within can see reflected all passing without, while they are perfectly invisible. The library founded by the Duke of Burgundy contains manuscripts of great value. In the Palace of Justice we saw the room where Charles the Fifth abdicated in favor of Philip the Second; and, crossing the square, we looked upon the spot where Horn and Egmont were beheaded by the cruel Duke of Alba. We next visited the manufactory of lace, for which Brussels is so remarkable. It is made in large rooms by the hands of women, who form each sprig, tendril, bud, and leaf separately, and then they are sewed on to the plain net. 120 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. In one room there were about twenty femaies, with large cushions on their knees, over which they were bending. Upon these were multitudes of small needles, to which they fastened the thread, as they wove it into leaves or flowers. It is a most difficult and tedious labor, excessively painful from the constrained attitude the women are compelled to maintain. Poor creatures, how we pitied them ! They all had an unhealthy, pallid appearance. In the show-room we saw some wonders of delicate workmanship. One flounce alone was worth one thousand dollars, and a bridal veil was valued at fifteen hundred. As I looked at the beautiful tracery upon the lace, like the spider's web when the morn- ing dew has left its embroidery of minute pearls, I thought of the weary fingers and the aching eyes which had toiled over it. From the manufactory we drove to the " Alice Verte," a most delightful road, very wide, with large trees overhang- ing it with their spreading branches. It runs just along the bank of the canal which leads to Mecklin. This is the " Hyde Park " or " Bois de Boulogne " of Brussels, where all the fashion of the Belgian capital take their evening drives. This charming " Allee Yerte " was spared by Mar- shal Saxe when he besieged the city in 1746. The women of Brussels all joined in supplications that it might not be destroyed, and Saxe most gallantly granted their request. Barely have I spent two more enchanting hours than during our pleasant drive. As we were returning we passed the Botanic Gardens. They are extensive and tastefully ar- ranged. At night the Park was illuminated for some fete, and a merry crowd filled it until a late hour. August od. — At dawn we were up and away for Cologne. As we drove to the station we saw the house where the Duchess of Richmond gave her grand ball on the eve of the THE BIllTir-rLACE OF CHARLEMAGNE. 127 Battle of Waterloo. Wellington and many of his ofl5eers were present. What a contrast was the succeeding night of carnage and death ! A few miles from Brussels we passed the Palace of Laeken. The gardens and parks are of vast extent. In the cemetery of Laeken, Madame Malibran is buried. Her body was brought from Manchester. There is on the tomb, or near it, a marble statue of her. The first important town near which the railway passed after leaving Brussels was Malines, or Mecklin. It has many historical associations, as there Charles the Bold founded the Imperial Chamber in 1473. But a more touch ing interest lingers about it from Bulwer's " Story of the Heart." Malines was the home of the faithful Lucille. At Fesche we were drawn up by a stationary engine to the summit of a hill, whence we had a most exquisite view. The valley of the Mense is exceedingly picturesque, and the city of Liege, with its cupolas, domes, and towers, presents a fine picture of commerce and prosperity. In Liege, Walter Scott lays the scenes of Quentin Durward. It appears to be a great manufacturing town. From thence we passed many flourishing villages, and stopped at Aix-la-Chapelle, in Prussia, the birth-place of Charlemagne, and also containing his tomb. It is celebrated for its springs, and crowds flock thither each year. The Cathedral has many precious relics, which are exhibited only once in seven years, when pilgrims by thousands assemble to look upon them. Among the most sacred are a lock of the Virgin's hair, and a nail from the true cross. The railway continues through a fertile country, passing many tunnels cut through the hills. About five we reached Cologne, or Koln, a fortified city on the Rhine. We drove through the narrow streets to the Hotel DiscJi, a splendid 12S SOUVENIKS OF TRAVEL. hotel. We did not tarry long within it, however, but started out to see the Dom Kirche, or Cathedral, which was commenced in 1248, and is not yet completed. It was in- tended to be the grandest of churches. The plan is admi- rable and majestic, but the ruined state it now presents is quite mournful. The stained glass windows are beautiful. There are several monuments and paintings ; but the glory of all is the choir, of immense height, with pillars and arches so far above one, they seem like the branches of great trees interlaced. The sacristan showed us the shrine of the " Three Kings of Cologne," or the Magi, who presented the offerings to the infant Saviour. Their skulls are preserved in cases, and each has the name inscribed upon it. The Em- peror Frederick Barbarossa gave them to Cologne, and this Cathedral was built to contain them. The Church of " St. Ursula and of the Eleven Thousand Virgins," who, returning from a pilgrimage to Rome to their native Brittany, were murdered at Cologne by the Huns, is a curious old place, filled with bones. They meet the eye in all directions. There are many other churches with valuable paintings and relics. Cologne is of great antiquity. It was built upon the site of the Roman camp of " Marcus Agrippa." The mother of Nero was born there in the tent of her father Germanicus. When she became Empress she sent a colony thither, who called the city " Colonia Agrippina." Between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries Cologne was styled the " Rome of the North." Caxton lived there in 1470, and learned the art of printing. The " Cologne Water " of " Jean Farina " is known to the whole world; there are, at least, forty houses all claim- ing to be the '' Original Manufactory." The Mumm Cham- pagne is also made here, and just vis-d-vis to my window is COLOGNE. ' 129 an immense building containing thousands and thousands of bottles. The river is crossed here by a bridge of boats, as no other can resist the rapidity of the current. Vol. L_6* CIIAPTEE XYII. Aufficst Ath. At six we were on board the little steamer Konig; the river — the Rhine — was broad, swift, and deep ;* thus we slowly ascended the "legendary stream." It was not until the " Siebengebirge " or Seven Mountains rose to view, that' the glories of the Rhine were revealed in all their matchless grandeur. No description I have ever read approaches the reality, save the verses of the most impassioned of poets. How wonderfully, how truthfully, has Byron pictured in glowing words the beauty of scenery which meets the eye on every side. First : " The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine. And hills all rich with blossomed trees, And fields which promise corn and wine, And scattered cities crowning these, Whose far white walls along them shine." Then comes the ruined tower of Rolandseck, crowning the summit of a lofty mountain ; just below is the Island of Nonnenwarth, with its convent half hidden amid the trees. Faithful love has consecrated these ruins, and through long legp:nd of the island convent. 131 centuries has preserved, fresh and pure, its toucliing legend of the noble knight, who, returning to claim his promised bride, finds her the inmate of the island convent. False tidings of his death had reached her, and in despair she had cast herself within this living tomb. She was lost to him. for ever ; and he built the tower from whence he could look down upon the green isle : gazing upon those white walls, which enshrined all that life possessed most dear to him, he spent tne weary years, till death summoned him away. After passing the Drachenfels, the river spreads out into a lake, entirely bounded every where by mountain^and hills. But a sudden turn brought us around a rocky parapet, and onward " The noble river foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varying round." The Gothic church and convent of Apollinarisburg came next in the moving panorama, and the basaltic rocks rising abruptly from the river many hundred feet. They bear the impress of volcanic origin, and are dark and stern ; but even to their summit, amid the crevices, are placed baskets con- taining earth, in w^hich the vines are planted. As they re- quire infinite care and attention, those who tend them are compelled to climb upon long ladders from cliff to cliff; vwe saw the peasants thus engaged, hanging, as it were, over the water. Upon. a high rock were the Ruins of Hammerstein, the refuge of the Emperor Henry IV. in 1105, and not far distant the towers of Andernacli and the village of Named}^, with its green lanes, near the rushing river. Then came a gently undulating country until we reached the " Banks of the Blue Moselle," which flows into the Rhine at Coblentz, (the Confluentes of the Romans,) a handsome walled city of 132 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. great antiquity, where the grandsons of Charlemagne as- sembled to divide his mighty empire into France, Germany, and Italy. A bridge of boats unites it to EhrenhreitsUin^ "the Gibraltar of the Rhine." Dark and massive arose the towers of this magnificent fortress; it was a castle built by the Romans, and in later days often besieged by the French, who finally conquered it in 1799, after starvation had forced a capitulation. They blew up the fortifications, but since that period, the Prussians have rebuilt it stronger than be- fore. Of its ruined state, Byron writes most exquisitely : • " Ehreubreitstein with her shattered wall Black with the miner's blast upon her height, Yet shows of what she was, when shells and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light. A tower of victory ! from whence the flight Of baffled foes was watched along the plain ; But peace destroyed -nhat war could never blight, And laid those proud walls bare to summer's rain, On Avhich the iron shower had poured in vain." The fortress was never destroyed until after the peace of Luneville. Ehreubreitstein signifies " honor's broad stone," which has been so often bathed in the warm life-blood of noble hearts. Long we gazed upon the impregnable fortress, and fully realized Rulwer's description : " Still, as we look on that lofty rock, we recall the famine and the siege ; and own that the more daring crimes of men have a strange privi- le3 We entered the room where Napoleon signed his abdication. The table upon which it was written is preserved, beneath a glass case. The apartments of the Duchess of Orleans, which she occupied upon her marriage, are those once used by the admirable Josephine. There is a throne-room, a chapel, and a theatre. Many of the rooms are hung with gobelin tapestry, and there are also. handsome paintings. A small apartment, containing multitudes of plates of Sevres china, was very curious. These plates were fastened in tlie wall by gilded frames, and the paintings upon them repre- sented scenes around the palace and in the forest. There were also views of the monuments of Paris, and of Versailles. They were wonderful in their perfection of color, and were as beautiful as the finest pictures upon ivory. We were shown the apartments occupied by the Pope Pius, during his forced sojourn in the palace ; also " The Chamber of Anne of Austria," which is superbly furnished, in the fashion of her time. The remembrances of Napoleon clustered more closely around us here than elsewhere in France, for the two great trials of his life were here enacted, — signing the bill which divorced him from his loving and faithful Josephine, and that of his abdication. His sleeping-room remains precisely as he left it ; and upon the little island in the lake, is still preserved the summer-house, where he retired each day to spend long hours in meditation. The immense carp which fill the lake came at our call to be fed. The gardens are lovely. There are fountains and water- falls, cool grottoes and green arbors, groves of noble trees, and lawns of velvet-like smoothness. For hours we wander- ed amid the parterres, and by the calm lakelets, the only oc- cupants and admirers of all this beauty. Although for cen- turies Fontainebleau was the especial resort of the monarchs 164 SOUVENIRS OF TEAVPX. of France, it is now some years since it has been visited by the Emperor, though it is kept up with all the elegance of a royal residence. There was a great charm to us, in the quiet, pleasant old town; and with real regret we bade adieu to our pretty little hostess, and in the soft evening twilight departed for P^is. CHAPTEK XX. We only remained a few days in Paris, to bid adieu to dear friends, who were returning to America, and to prepare for our visit to Switzerland. At early morning, August 26th, we drove througli the " Place de la Bastile," en route for Dijon. The sun's first rays fell gloriously upon the gilt Mercury of the Column of July, erected to the memory of those who died nobly fighting for the " glory of France." We soon reached the station, and then away, with rapid speed, to Fontainebleau. The railway passed through a fer- tile country, filled with vineyards and waving fields of grain. We stopped at Montereau, at Sens, at Joigny, St. Florentine, Nuits, St. Ravier, Yerrey, Plombieres, and ere night reached Dijon, the chief town of the Department of the Cote d'Or. The streets are narrow, and the houses of a quaint style of architecture. On the " Place d Armes " is the ancient palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. There were several fine churches, and a large cathedral. Near the gates of Dijon is the Chartreuse^ where many members of the royal family are buried. The famous wines of Chamhertin, Vougeot, and Romance, are made from the grapes of the vineyards jubt without the walls. We left Dijon at half-past three in the morning, in tli«^ If) 6 80UVKNIRS OF TRAVEL. diligence. We were fortunate to get the coupe seats, which are in front, thus affording us a fine view on everj side. We waited some time without the gates, for the express train from Paris. At length the shrill whistle was heard, and we were soon in motion, going at full gallop of fifteen miles the hour. It was still night, but by the star-light we saw many of the country people coming to market, with carts made of wicker work, precisely like giant baskets upon wheels. When morning came, we looked over a flat country, highly cultivated, and covered with fields of wheat and of Indian corn, (which was not more than two feet high.) We passed through a number of towns, all built upon narrow, straggling streets, with sharp-roofed houses. We breakfasted about eleven, at a post-house ; but such was the haste of our guard, that we had only time to scald our tongues with the boiling coffee, seize a piece of chicken in our fingers, and rush back to the diligence, leaving the luscious-looking pears, plums, and melons, upon the table. There was evidently a " combination, ".as we say in x\nierica, between the inn-keeper and the guard, for they exchanged significant glances, as we poor, hungry mortals, unwillingly left the room. Now our (juard^ or guardian, was a decided character in his line, and accompanied us from Dijon to Geneva, a dis- tance of one hundred and twenty miles. He was a stout Frenchman, with Napoleonic beard, and a blouse over his of- ficial coat. His manner was the very " attar of rose " of im- portance. The horses were changed every fifteen miles, with great despatch, (two minutes being the time allowed.) Every five minutes our guard sprang down from the top of the dili- gence, ruslied around it, examined the wheels, touched the traces, JTulled the reins, muttering all the while his favorite oath, " Sacre nom de Dieu," (giving tlie r in sacre the most THK JURA MOUNTAINS. 167 peculiar roll,) then looking up he would cry out, " en route ! en route ! " ia a loud tone, and spring like a tiger upon the iron step, and in one more second be standing upon the top of the lumbering diligence, which really seemed to have been built upon the model of the ark. There were twelve inside, and an indefinite number without, besides several dogs, whose masters paid full price for them in the Banquette. When- ever we stopped, a ladder was brought, that the occupants of the upper regions might descend in safety. About mid-day we began the ascent of the Jura Moun- tains ; so gradual it was, that the horses continued in a gal- lop until we were half-way up ; then others were attached to the four already in the diligence. Around and around we passed. On all sides the view was charming; the valleys were green and quiet, save the " brawling brook," which rushed through each, turning mills, or falling in graceful wa- terfalls over ledges of gray rock. We often drove along the side of a mountain, while the opposite one, separated by a deep abyss, seemed so near that we could almost touch it. The road was admirable, as smooth as a parlor floor, as even as the macadamized coad of Maysville, or the shell road of Spring Hill. At tiiues a narrow shelf was cut down along the mountain-side, and upon this we passed. As a parapet was built towards the precipice, we felt quite secure, and, without an emotion of fear, looked down hundreds and hundreds of feet, into the lovely glen below, where nestled a little village, beneath the spreading branches of great old oaks. As we advanced into the depths of the mountains the scenery became more wild, and all evidences of cultivation vanished. The fir trees of conical shape and the foliage of intense green covered the mountains to their summit,- giving them a dark and gloomy aspect. 168 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. We often met men, women, and children, breaking up stones and placing them upon the road, and also encountered many carts of the peasantry on their way to the villages. We had before been told it was market-day, for in all the towns through which we had passed", we saw the country peo- ple buying and selling in the principal street. They are a homely race of human beings, and even the children have the look of old age, while the women are uglier than the men. At three we commenced the ascent of the last high moun- tain of the Jura chain. Slowly we wound around the bold cliflPs of " La Vattay," until we attained an immense eleva- tion. The houses in the vale below appeared no larger than bird-cages, and the little river no wider than a silver ribbon, and yet it seemed we could throw a stone and strike either, we were so directly over them. The gorges of the mountains were very narrow, and here and there were small chalets perched on a projection of the cliff, which it must have been impossible to reach except by ladders. At last we reached the summit of " La Vattay," and I was looking back upon the willing road we had travelled, when Octavia cried out in an exulting voice, " There is Mont Blanc, and I was the first to see it ! " There indeed was Mont Blanc ! " Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains, Tbcy crowned him long ago, On a throne of rocks, in robes of clouds, "With a diadem of snow." There was a wonderful clearness in the atmosphere, ren- dering distant objects perfectly visible. The' evening sun, hidden from us by " La Vattay,'' threw its rays directly upon the Mont Blanc chain of mountains, lighting them up with a roseate hue indescribably beautiful. The majestic Mont LAKE LEMAN. 169 Blanc, and the peaks around, appeared only a few miles away ; and yet the distance was more than forty-five miles. We were peculiarly fortunate, for it is not often the " monarch mountain " is thus revealed in unclouded splendor. Near the summit were several great black rocks, never covered by snow, in consequence of the force of the wind. Between " The Needles " (the peaks around) were the glittering gla- ciers, of a deep blue color. Midway up the mountain was a belt of white clouds clustering around it like flocks of snow- winged birds. With emotions of intense delight we gazed upon this scene of grand yet quiet loveliness. At our feet was the valley of Geneva, entirely shut in by the lofty mountains on every side. In the centre were the lake and the city, and around it numerous villages, handsome villas, well cultivated farms and country-houses. Far away were sailing-boats like graceful swans cleaving the dark blue waters. It seemed to us the realization of the " Happy Valley of Basselas." The lake is of a crescent shape, and fifty-five miles long. It was called by the Romans " Lacus Lemanus," and is styled " Lake Leman," by Byron, in his graphic description of the lake in a " calm : " "Clear, placid Leman! thy contrasted lake, With the wild world I dwell in, is a thing Which warns me with its stillness, to forsake Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring." Then his spirited picture of a " storm : " *' Now, where the swift Rhone cleaves his way between Heights, which appear as lovers who have parted In hate, whose mining depths so intervene They can meet no more, though broken-hearted." Vol. T.— 8 170 SOUVENIKS OF TKAVEL. We were two hours descending the mountain, with Mont Blanc constantly in view, at each turn of the road seeming more majestic. The diligence drew up at a spring, and the guard showed us a marble tablet, which marks the spot where Naj^oleon stopped to look upon Geneva, as he was entering it as conqueror. What a wondrous power still exists even in the remembrance of Napoleon ! it encircles the Continent like an atmosphere ; and yet he perished a captive on that lonely isle in mid-ocean. Every where in Europe have we seen tributes to him in cities, in valleys, on plains, and even in the depths of the mountains the inscription of his name rendered almost sacred the wild pass. We would fain have lingered longer with the glorious landscape before us, but the diligence, like Time, " waits for no man," (much less for woman,) and soon we drove rapidly to the city, being delayed at the gates some time by the troublesome passports, the greatest bore of European travel. We had been told, ere we left Paris, that passports would not be needed in Switzerland ; imagine therefore our amazement when they were examined three times before we reached Geneva, and there the Prefect of Police took possession of them, giving us a written permission to remain a certain number of days. CHAPTEE XXI. Geneva. — The city contains thirty-two thousand inhabit- ants. It is divided into two portions by the Rhone, over which are many bridges. In the centre of the rushing river is the " Island of Jean Jacques Rousseau," built there by the Government to contain his monument, which is of bronze, in the midst of immense poplar trees. The view from this island is exquisite. Rousseau was a native of Geneva, son of a watchmaker. One night he reached the gates after they were closed, and fearing the anger of the stern master to whom he was apprenticed, he fled to France. Geneva is singularly interesting from its associations. It has exercised the most powerful influence over Europe by the religious tenets of Calvin, the very same that drove our Pilgrim Fathers across the broad Atlantic. Calvin came to Geneva in 1536, an itinerant preacher, and such was the power of his eloquence, he became ruler over the people for the space of twenty-three years. In fact, through his influ- ence Geneva gave laws to the whole Protestant world, as Rome does to the Catholic. John Knox fled to Geneva in 1558, to escape the cruelties of Queen Mary, and was made a citizen by Calvin. Necker, the father of Mme. de Stael, Saussure, the first who ascended Mont Blanc, Sismondi, the 172 SOUVENIKS OP' TRAVEL. historian, Decandolle, the botanist, and many other distin- guished persons, were born in Geneva. The city is on the southern extremity of the lake towards • France. It is a busy, commercial place, with narrow streets and very tall houses ; many are ten stories high. As it is built on several hills, from the windows of the upper town we looked down upon the roofs of the lower portion of the city. We stopped at the " Ecu de Geneve," an excellent hotel ; almost as good as those in America. It is just upon the bank of the dashing Rhone, and we dined at seven, to the accompaniment of the rushing waters. We spent three or four days in a delightful manner, visit- ing the curiosities of the town, and driving amid the environs. We saw the church of Saint Pierre, commenced in the eleventh century. It contains the same pulpit in which Calvin preached. It is a simple and plain building, without ornament. In front of it is an old tree, called the " Oak of Calvin." The great reformer forbade the people of Geneva to erect over his body any monument. His grave has only a marble slab, with the letters " J. C." upon it. We visited the ditch called " La Corraterie," the scene of the famous " Escalade " in 1602, when the town was nearly captured by the Savoyards. The anniversary of the night is still celebrated, and the iron saucepan shown, with which a woman killed the first soldier who scaled the walls. The " Eelief of Mont Blanc " is a curious work. It is carved out of wood by Sene, who was ten years in complet- ing it. This "Relief" maybe styled the model of Moni Blanc. It is one six-millionth part of the original. All the valleys, villages, trees, chalets, and glaciers are miniatures of the natural landscape. Next we went to the " Musee Rath," a building given to the city by General Rath, whose bust adorns the entrance. FERNET — SAD ACCIDENT. 173 There \vere several good paintings by native artists of Alpine scenery, and a picture of Jean Jacques Rousseau, said to be a remarkable resemblance. The " Death-bed scene of Calvin " was excellent, also the " Release of Bonnivard." The botani- cal gardens, laid out by Decandolle, are very fine, containing the rarest flowers, and most magnificent old trees. "We drove to the "junction of the rivers." The Bhone leaves the lake as clear as crystal. The stones and pebbles can be distinctly seen twenty feet deep. The Arve comes directly from the glaciers of Mont Blanc, and is like a stream of mud. The two rivers flow on side by side for a long dis- tance ere they mingle into one. At last the dark overpowers the bright^ and the clear blue waters of the Rhone are lost in the turbulent Arve. Thus the influence of the evil often overcomes the good in the natural as well as in the moral world. From the Rhone and the Arve, we continued our drive to Ferney, once the dwelling-place of Voltaire, and thereby " made most classic ground." He lived there twenty years, and some relics of him are yet preserved. On a height near Ferney, we obtained an admirable view of the city and of Mont Blanc. In front of us were the Salene Mountains, where, only one month since, a sad accident occurred to two Englishmen. They attempted to scale the mountain, which presents an almost perpendicular wall of rock, and both fell into a dark chasm two hundred feet deep. One was in- stantly killed, and the other had his leg fearfully crushed. He remained twelve hours in this situation by the side of his dead comrade. Some peasants going out at early morn- ing to their work, heard his shrieks of despair, and coming to the verge of the abyss, they fastened ropes above to the rocks, and swung themselves down to the wretched suff'erer ; then they tied strong cords around him, and those above 174: SOUVENIES OF TRAVEL. drew him up and brought him to the city, where he still lingers in great anguish. We went to the '* Campagne Diodati," where Byron wrote his Manfred ; also, the third canto of Childe Harold. In 1816 he lived there for some time. We have met many agreeable people in Geneva, among whom we were glad to greet our excellent friends Major and Mrs. Porter, of America. The Rhone was a perfect enchant- ment to me. Upon its swiftly flowing waters I gazed for hours; they were singularly blue, as blue as indigo. This color is said to be produced by the admixture of iodine ; at least, such was the opinion of Sir Humphrey Davy. When night came, the lights upon the islands, and in the city, reflected into the river, made a grand illumination beneath the waters. Long would we tarry at our parlor-window, looking out upon the novel scene, until the quietude of the midnight was around us, broken only by the dashing Rhone and the jingle of the bells of the diligence ; then, often in the visions of the dream-world, the monarch mountain loom- ed majestically grand and sublime. Aug. dOth. — By six this morning we were up, seated by the open window, writing letters to our dear ones at home. The soft light fell sweetly upon the winged Rhone, for it really seems the waters do not run, but fly with the swift- ness of a bird. By eight we were on board a small steamer ascending the lake ; the mists enveloped the mountains, but gradually disappeared, thus unfolding scene after scene of picturesque beauty. Along the shores were many elegant villas built by English people, who have a great aflfection for this lake. Morgcs was the first town at which we touched. Near it is the " Old Castle of Wuff'ens." Tradition says it was built by Queen Bertha in the tenth century. SCENES UPON THE LAKE. 1Y5 "We coasted slowly along until we came to Laussane, on the north shore of the lake. We landed at Ouchcy, the sea or lake port of the city. Just on the shore we saw the " Hotel de I'Ancre," where Lord Byron wrote his " Prisoner of Chillon," in the space of two days, while an Alpine storm detained him within its walls. From Ouchey, we drove one mile to Laussane, a singu- lar-looking town, with streets as steep and winding as the road across the Jura. On the summit of the mountain, upon whose side the houses seem to cling, is the cathedral. It is the finest Gothic church in Switzerland, and was begun in the year 1000, and completed in 1275. The interior is cold, white, and unadorned by either pictures or statuary. There are, however, several mail-clad efl&gies of great men of the olden time ; among them, that of Otho of Granson, and of Bernard de Menthon, the founder of the Hospice of the great St. l^ernard. Curious pillars sustain the lofty roof; they consist of one large central column, with eight smaller ones clustering around it. There was no altar, but an elaborately carved pulpit, whence the faith of Calvin is preached. In front of the cathedral was a broad terrace, from which we looked down upon the roofs of houses seven stories high. To attain this height we climbed up six hundred steps, but were amply repaid by the magnificent view which met our eyes as we left the cathedral. The entire lake was revealed to us, while to the south, the Alps of Savoy loomed up like grand ramparts. In all directions were villages, vineyards, green meadows, and yellow grain-fields. As we were gazing upon this lovely scene, afar over Mont Blanc came the black clouds, and we were warned a storm was approaching ; so we hastened down the steps, and sought shelter in the " Hotel Gibbon," and thence into the garden to a pavilion, built upon the precise spot where stood the 176 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. sunimer-house in which the great historian wrote the last words of the " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire." It was upon a cliff overlooking the whole lake. There we seat- ed ourselves to watch the coming storm, with Byron's poem to " Lake Leman " in our hands. How often, in " other days," had these stanzas delighted us, and little did imagina- tion picture, then, the one hour of our life filled with the vision of wild beauty therein described. It was a glorious spectacle ! Over the great mountains came the black-winged clouds, parted at intervals by the red gleams of the lightning, which seemed not only to cleave their dark masses, but to dart down beneath the waters of the yet placid lake. " Far along, From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, Leaps the live thunder ! Not from one lone cloud, But every mountain now hath found a tongue, And Jura answers, through her misty shroud, Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud ! Soon the peals of " heaven's own artillery " proclaimed the approach of the Storm-King. Then the calm lake seem- ed to awaken from its silence, and the white waves dashed madly upon the shore, until the azure hue of its waters was lost in sheets of fleecy foam, almost rivalling the snow of the Alps above. The wind rushed down the gorges of the mountains, with a wailing plaint, like the anguish of despair, and mingled with the thunder and the dashing waves, in strange and wild harmony. We were truly grieved when great cataracts of rain came down from the black clouds, thus draining them of their gloomy grandeur. The thunder still murmured among the Alps, the lake was still white with its snow-crested waves, when a summons reached us, that we must hasten to Ouchey to be in season SEA-SICKNESS ON I^AKE LlOtAN. 1Y7 for the steamer. Thus we were compelled to leave the pa- vilion of the " Hotel Gibbon." "We jumped into the car- riage, and drove rapidly down the mountain streets. On each side of the road were great streams, dashing along with the fleetness of the chamois. From them we could well im- agine the resistless power of an Alpine torrent, for even rocks in their way were borne along as though they were but feathers. By the time we came to the beach, all traces of the storm had vanished, though the lake was yet fretting and foaming. As the steamer could not touch at the quai for us, we were taken off to her in a small boat, and had rather a perilous row over the " troubled waters," which however ended safe- ly, and we were soon steaming up to Yevay. On board were the most mournful set of passengers. They had en- countered the storm in the mid-lake, and had all been " sea- sick," and were drenched with rain, having been forced to remain on deck, in consequence of their terror. " Sea-sick on Lake Leman ! " exclaimed a fat Eqglishman, " it is a dese- cration of romance and poetry." " Sea-sick on Lake Leman ! " cried a delicate woman, '' I should not wonder if the ghost of Lord Byron were to rise in horror ! " Poor creatures ! how they mourned and sighed ! — the Germans smoked furi- ously, and the Englishmen consoled themselves by cursing the steamer, and all pertaining to the lake. Happily for us, we had only enjoyed the magnificence of the scene, seated in our eyrie, o'erlooking the tumultuous lake, and realizing all the grandeur of Byron's description. Yevay. — It was a bright evening when we reached Vevay, and a charming walk brought us to the " Hotel of the Three Crowns " — a fine house, with floors of mosaic of marble, noble corridors, and a splendid dining-room, with windows Vol. I.— 8* 178 SOUVENIKS OF TKAVEL. opening upon an exquisite flower-garden, planted on a terrace just on the verge of the lake. After dinner, we walked along the shore for several hours. The deepest silence prevailed, broken only by the ripple of the waters upon the beach. The margin of the horizon was darkened by the bold Alps, and Jura's chain was visible in the dim distance. The air was filled with fragrance, and " nature seemed in sober contemplation " to spread its wings of peace over the fair land, " Lake Lemau woos me with its crystal face, The mirror where the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect, in each trace Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue." Our weariness was all forgotten in the calm loveliness of the night, and from our very heart we uttered : " And this is in the night, most glorious night ! Tliou wcrt not made for slumber." Firmly impressed witl^ that belief, we lingered on the star- lit terrace until long after the midnight. Vevay is the Roman Vibiscum; it is built on the shores of the lake, just at the foot of the vine-covered moun- tains, and has an admirable view of the snowy Alps. Rous- seau declared that it was the most lovely spot of earth. In a grove above the town we found a quaint-looking church, erected in 1438. It is noted as the burial-place of Brougli- ton, who read the sentence of death to Charles I. ; also of Ludlow, the regicide. Many famous wines are made from the grapes of the vineyards near Vevay, among which the Fluoric and La Vaux are the most delicious. We accompanied an agreeable party to " Chillon," and there passed an enchanting day. Wc were rowed down in a small boat with a fanciful awning. The blue waters spar- THE CASTLE OF CHILLON. 1Y9 kled like myriads of gems in the radiant sun-light, as we slowly glided along. Clarens first claimed our interest, as the dwelling-place of Rousseau's " Julie," and around which Byron has also thrown the immortality of his verse. *' Clarens, sweet Clarens, birthplace of deep Love! Thine air is the young breath of passionate thought : Thy trees take root in Love ; the snows above The very glaciers have his colors caught, And sun-set into rose-hues sees them wrought, By rays which sleep there lovingly." Next came the Castle of Blonay, and the Chatelard, and the village of 3Iontreux, said to be the healthiest town on the lake. For the population, fewer persons die there than in any other part of the world. The shores of Lake Leman are in striking contrast. On the ni)rth side, immense mountains crowd to the verge of the water ; they are barren, and furrowed with great wrinkles ; while to the south, the swelling hills and vine-covered slopes come down to meet the pretty little villages, chalets, and long avenues of old oaks. " Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls ; A thousand feet in depth below Its massy waters meet and flow ; Thus much the fathom-line was sent From Chillon's snow-white battlement." The Casih of Chillon. — ^Yith feelings of almost rev- erence we crossed the wooden bridge connecting Chillon to the main land, and entered the time-worn walls of the Castle. Tt was built upon a great rock, near the south shore of the lake, in l^SS, by Amedeus of Savoy, and used by him as a prison-house. A pretty blue-eyed Swiss girl, with a large straw flat upon her head, was our cicerone, or guide. She 180 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. described, in good French, all the wonders of the Castle, and vre eagerly followed her through all the windings and twist- ings of the old towers, up stone steps to the highest points, and down them to the " depths below." The walls of the Castle are of great thickness ; lofty tur- rets spring from the four corners of the building, while one of immense height rises from the centre. In the southern turret we were shown the apartments once occupied by Count Pierre and his beautiful wife. The frescoes on the walls are still bright in many places, although centuries have passed since the artist painted them. From the window of the countess's chamber, we beheld a view of unrivalled loveliness. Far beneath the surface of the lake, are the dungeons, and the oubliettes — trap-doors — through which the condemned were thrown into a dark chasm, where myriads of knives, with up-turned points, received them, and quickly did the work of death. In the dungeons of Chillon many of the Reformers were confined. Bonnivard was the real " Prisoner of Chillon." He was the Prior of Saint Victor, and having ofi'ended the Duke, was secretly conveyed to the Castle, and imprisoned for the space of six years. In 1536 the Swiss conquered the country from Charles of Savoy. Chillon held out for him until the " Pays de Vaud " was captured ; then seven thou- sand Bernese, besieging it by land and water, soon obtained possession, and freed all the prisoners; among them was Bon- nivard. At the Musee Bath, in Geneva, we had seen a painting representing the " Belease of Bonnivard." The picture shows him chained to the column, his black robe clinging around his emaciated form, and his long gray hair floating wildly over his shoulders. His eyes are raised to- wards heaven, while the expression of his face tells the story of his sufferings. Although the soldiers have stricken off THE DUNGEON OF BONNIVAKD. 181 his chains, he still remains motionless as a statue. Wonder- ful changes occurred while Bonnivard was a prisoner. He had left Geneva devoted to the Catholic faith, and a depen- dency on the Duke of Savoy. He found it, when he came out, free, a Republic, and professing the Reformed religion. The dungeon of Bonnivard was very large ; a portion of it cut out of the living rock. It had " seven columns, massy and gray." The roof was arched, and it bore a strong resem- blance to the crypt of a church. There were several aper- tures like windows, through which the sunlight entered ; not the true sunbeams, but rays reflected from the surface of the lake, tinged with the blue of its waters : "A sunbeam which hath lost its way, And through the crevice and the cleft Of the thick wall, is fallen and left ; Creeping o'er the floor so damp, Like a marsh's meteor-lamp." As we loitered amid the recesses of the prison, a discus- sion arose among the party on the possibility of seeing the " Little Isle." Several contended it was not visible from the apertures of the dungeon, but upon closer inspection we dis- covered it could be seen by a man as tall as the paintings represent Bonnivard : " And then there was a little Isle, Which in my very face did smile, The only one in view ; A small green Isle — it seemed no more. Scarce broader than my dungeon floor ; But in it there were three taU trees, And o'er it blew the mountain-breeze, And by it there were waters flowing, And on it were young flowers growing, Of gentle breath and hue." 182 sorvENms of travel. We were pointed out the ring to which Bonnivard was chained for six years, and saw the traces of his footsteps in the solid rock, worn by constant pacing. Tt is said Byron was ignorant of the suflferings of the real prisoner until after he had completed his poem ; but this cannot be, as he has too truly portrayed the bitterness of that " living grave Below the surface of the lake." His sonnet to Bonnivard is exquisite : " Chillon! thy prison is a holy place, And thy sad floor an altar ; for 'twas trod Until his very steps have left a trace "Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod, By Bonnivard ! May none those marks eflace. For they appeal from tyranny to God." A queer old Englishman joined us as we were descending the dungeon steps, and he questioned every statement of the Swiss girl, and at last insisted the prisoner could only have walked four steps one way and four steps the other ; thus the rock was worn away by the feet of other persons, purposely to " humbug visitors." How provoking are these nil admi- rari people, throwing a black veil over enjoyment, and de- stroying the romance of one's feelings. Enthusiasm is always delightful, and we found ourselves irresistibly drawn towards those of our party who felt the potent spell of genius, cast around the spot by the mighty mind of the great poet. At evening we returned to Yevay, passing again the pic- turesque scenery which had so charmed us in the morning. We spent some hours walking through the town, and stopping by the fountains, where crowds of women were assembled, dipping up water in large buckets, for their family use. French appeared the language generally gpoken, though we VIEW FROM CLAKENS. 183 heard also a harsh-sounding patois. The inhabitants were rather a homely people, sallow and thin ; they were polite and kindly-mannered. Several times during our wanderings we lost our way, and were obliged to inquire of the passers- by the proper direction. Invariably, they not only told us, but accompanied us a portion of the distance, talking in the most intelligent manner, and giving us any information we required. Whenever we went into the shops, they would in- sist that we should be seated ere they displayed their goods. When they found we came from America, they often said, " America is a noble country ; it is free, like our own ! " The government of Switzerland resembles that of the Hepublic of the United States ; their President is elected once in five years. The environs of Vevay are exceedingly fine, and we passed the day amid them, and beneath the shade of the great elms ; at six o'clock in the evening we left the town and drove along the shore. At Clarens we stopped to look upon the view thence, said to be the most exquisite upon the lake. The mountains of the Rhone valley, the rocks of La Meillerie, and Chillon, are all comprised in the panorama. " 'Twas not for fiction chose Rousseau this spot, Peopling it with affections ; but he found It was the scene which passion must allot To the mind's purified beings'; 'twas the ground Where early love his Psyche's zone unbound, And hallowed it with loveliness ; 'tis lone, And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound, And sense, and sight of sweetness: here the Rhone Hath spread himself a couch, the Alps have rear'd a throne." Beautiful and true was the description of Byron, and never did his wonderful power appear more striking to us than whei we gazed upon the scene. How lovely was that 184 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. evening drive along the vine-clad slopes of Lake Leman ! The air was pure and fresh, as though it were just from the gates of Paradise ; the sunlight falling upon the high mountain- tops, cast their shadows on the lake, thus mirroring a dark mountain-chain beneath the waters. Boats with Lateen sails were resting idly, while the dip of the oar and the rush of the waterfall were the only sounds abroad. After passing Chillon, we came to the " Hotel Byron," situated high up the cliffs. In the garden, which came down to the water's edge, were groups of visitors and throngs of laudiing children. At Villencuve we parted with the lake ; a feeling of deep regret possessed us, as we looked our last upon that gem of the Alps; there was a sweet quietude, a balmy feeling steal- ing over our hearts, as we wandered amid these mountains^ perfectly delightful, and we would fain have lingered, but our " way was still onward." Just above the summit of the distant Alps rose up " the Comet of 1853," with its long train of dazzling light ; we gazed upon it until the high cliffs hid it from our view. We dashed rapidly along the valley, crossing the river several times, " Journeying upward by tlic Khone, That there came down a torrent from the Alps." We passed the bridge of Saint Maurice, which is a bold arch, spanning the stream. It was sustained on the one side by the Dent de Morcles and on the other by the Dent de Midi. Beneath it the Bhone, imprisoned by the mighty rocks, rushed and foamed along like the rapids of Niagara. There is a tradition that here the Legion of Thebans, com- manded by St. Maurice, suffered martyrdom, by the order of Maximian, in A. D. o02, in consequence of their refusal to THE CRETINS THE GOITRES BRIEG. 185 abandon the religion of Christ. In the fourth century the first Abbey was founded amid the Alps, and named St. Mau- rice, in remembrance of the martyr. We passed near the " Waterfall of the Sallenche," which revealed its presence by clouds of snowy spray ; then Bex, remarkable for its salt wells, and Martigny^ where the road from the great St. Bernard, and also that from Chamouni, intersect the Simplon. The ruins of La Batre, once a tower of strength belonging to the Archbishops of Sion, were clearly visible in the starlight. When the day dawned and we saw the inhabitants passing along to their work, we were struck with their miserable and squalid appearance ; so different from the neat and tidy look of the people of the Fays de Vaud. We soon saw many persons with goitres, and also the cretins. It is impossible to imagine any thing more horrible or more disgusting than these goitres. We remarked them not only upon the necks of men and of women, but also upon small children. The cretins are idiots who go wandering along the wayside, pale and skeleton-like. We inquired of the peasants every where we stopped what was the cause of the goitres. Some told me it was caused by the damp atmosphere of the Khone valley. Some said it was induced by drinking the water from the glaciers, and others attributed the malady to the uncleanliness of the peo- ple. From whatever cause it arises, there can be no sight more pitiable and sad. At Brieg we breakfasted. The little village contained a Jesuit college with gilded towers, and the chateau of the Baron Stock Alper, decorated in the same manner. There was also a Convent of the Ursulines. We saw many priests along the road, and heard German spoken, which is the lan- guage of the whole canton of the Vallais. CHAPTEK XXII. The road of the Simplon is in truth one of the most magnificent works of this century. Napoleon determined it should be made immediately after he had crossed the great St. Bernard. When the battle of Marengo was " fought and won," he commanded his engineers to make a survey of the route. Those of Ceard were deemed the best, and therefore chosen. On the Italian side it was commenced in 1800, and on the Swiss in 1801. It required the labor of six years to complete it, as the road passed over more than six hundred bridges, great and small. Napoleon was exceedingly inter- ested in the progress of the work. Whenever information was brought him concerning it, he would always ask, " Le canon — quand pourraii-il passer au Simplon ? " showing his great object was the more easy transportation of his powerful artillery. At Brieg the road left the " arrowy Rhone," and we drove rapidly up the Simplon. So gradual was the ascent, we were scarcely conscious of the height we had attained, save by the clearer view of the distant valleys. The weather was delightful ; not in the slightest degree cold, but gentle and soft as the sweetest days of our spring. When we lost sight of the Rhone valley the road turned away from the Olytzhorny which rose up like a grand VIEW FROM THE FIRST POST-HOUSE. 187 rampart, and passed by the Briethorn into the gorge of the Saltine, where we crossed a fierce torrent upon a covered bridge. Far, far above ns we saw the clear, pale blue fields of ice, and were told our road upward would pass near them. The view from the first post-house was admirable. We seemed as though raised up in a balloon, with the valleys of Brieg and Tourtemagne spread out beneath us. After changing horses we crossed the plain of Gauther and another furious torrent, upon the Pont de Oauther. The plain is very dangerous in consequence of the avalanches every winter. Now, we perceived the Herculean labor of making the road. There were miles of solid masonry and hundreds of feet of galleries formed partly of the living rock and partly of huge pillars of stone and mortar. The turnings and wind- ings of the way were really incredible. One valley we passed entirely around three times upon ledges or terraces, built one above the other, as though they belonged to some giant hang- ing garden. When we gained the summit we could trace far below us the narrow track like a white seam upon the moun- tain-side. Well might Sir James Mackintosh say of this road : " It is the greatest of all those monuments that dazzle the imagination by their splendor, and are subservient to general convenience." The first gallery we entered was that of Schalbet, ninety- five feet long, and emerging from it we beheld all the glory of the Bernese Alps. These were the peaks of the Brie- thorn, the Aletsch Horner, and the Viescher Horner, stand- ing in bold relief against the clear sky. Their summits were covered with snow, while between them appeared the glaciers of Aletsch, the most extensive of the Alps. The scene was indescribably grand. The glacier of the jK'ctZfit'asser was -just above us, not more than a hundred yards away. The color of the ice was of 188 SOUVENIKS OF TRAVEL. the deepest blue, with long streaks of white through it, caused by the melting of the mass. Several torrents rushed from be- neath it, and fell over the cliffs in sheets of snow-like foam ; our eyes followed them until they were lost in the dim depths, thousands and thousands of feet below. Far above, where no human feet have trod, were the wild goats (the chamois of the Alps), standing in perfect security upon the topmost peak of the Simplon, which was uncovered, although around and below it the " everlasting snows " lay pure and deep. Along this portion of the road the avalanches are fre- quent ; also the tourmentes (sudden storms). Hence the con- struction of many galleries as places of protection. They are made in such a manner that the avalanches slide over them and fall into the valleys below. After passing through one of these long-arched tunnels, termed the ''glacier galleries," with great apertures like windows, we found ourselves beneath a waterfall, which came roaring from the glaciers above, and rushed over the rocks, forming the roof of our gallery ; thus we beheld the fearful sight, while we felt ourselves in safety. From gallery to gallery we drove on until we came out upon the edge of the precipice. Then for the first time a sensation of fear thrilled our hearts, or rather of awe. Before us were the Bernese Alps in their lonely grandeur. Far below into caverns and chasms of untold depth fell the glacier torrents, echoing from peak to peak the music of the water- fall. Far above all, arose the summit of the Simplon in white and chilly grandeur. It was entirely covered with snow, save a few pulpit-.shaped rocks. Around it was a crown of clouds, touched by the sunbeams and wrought into fantastic banks of rose-hue, exquisitely beautiful to behold. Neither shrub, tree, nor flower formed a portion of the majestic spectacle, where " Alps rose over Alps," while the brilliant snow of ages, the eternal glaciers, and the mighty rocks DOGS OF GREAT ST. BERNAKD. 189 reigned supreme. Never did I feel my soul more perfectly raised from " Nature up to Nature's God ! " Who could be a skeptic in a scene like this, where the hand of the " Great Architect '' is so manifest in the glories of his creation. A feeling of profound gratitude filled my bosom that my eyes had dwelt upon this glorious mountain-world, and that within my memory it would be a joy forever. Higher and higher we went, until we perceived near us the little cross marking the culminating point of the road, six thousand five hundred and seventy-eight feet above the level of the sea. Although the elevation was so great, the atmosphere was pleasantly warm, and the air so pure and clear, objects exceedingly distant seemed incredibly near. TVe left the diligence and climbed a rocky eminence, where we drank a bumper of fieurie to " those we love best " in our far-away home, turning our faces westward towards our hearts' Mecca^ as we wafted them blessings fond and true. Across a gray, barren plain, we drove to a large hospice, commenced by the command of Napoleon, and since completed. It is occupied by friars of the Augustine order. They give shelter to travellers during periods of stormy weather. We saw there the dogs of the great St. Bernard ; they are almost as large as a well-grown calf, and are covered with thick, shaggy hair. Father Barras came out to speak with us. He is noted for his kindness to strangers, and has a most benevo- lent face. Along the Simplon road there are six houses of refuge for " the traveller worn and weary." They are most valuable asylums, for the tempests often arise so suddenly, it would be impossible to escape certain destruction were not these places of protection wisely placed within the reach of the wayfarer. Then the avalanches occur when the " heavens are brightest." We heard the crushing sound of one, but it was happily far 190 SOUVENIES QF TRAVEL. away from us in a distant valley. The houses of refuge are built with massive walls and furnished with an abundance of fire-wood. Some few are occupied by miserable-looking peas- ants, who will wait upon a stranger for a good compensation. Others are left open, and all enter who wish, free and with- out charge. Often in letters to dear Mamma, have I told her of the deliglit we have experienced in meeting friends and acquaint- ances in all our wanderings. But we did not imagine, amid the glaciers and the eternal snows, almost in the skies (for some clouds were below us), that we should still find one. During all the day we had remarked a handsome man, with a noble, distinguished air, walking at times along the moun- tain-road. Upon inquiry we discovered he was the occu- pant of the carriage following our diligence. When we stop- ped at the hospice he came up to us, and presented a bouquet of Alpine flowers which he had gathered during the morning. There was a certain grace and gallant manner which at once induced me to believe he was an American ; therefore to be assured of my supposition, I made some remark concerning " our country," and found we had known each other well in " days long past;" and thus on the summit of the Simplon I met a friend. It was truly a bright and sparkling incident in " the pass of the Simplon." Mr. Ogden was with a party of intelligent gentlemen from the United States, who were journeying our way, and we travelled together several days. At Simplon (Semplone in Italian) we dined, and then proceeded on to the Gallery of Algahy, the first on the Ital- ian side of the mountain. It is along the Doveria, near where it rushes into the Gorge of Gondo. Words cannot even give a shadow of the wild and savage grandeur of this Alpine gorge. Goethe, in his Faust, has pictured just such THE FRASCINNONE WATERFALL. 191 scenes of mysterious gloom. The mountains appeared to have been rent asunder by some fierce convulsion of nature, leaving a pass-way for the Doveria, which rushes through, sometimes a roaring river, then falling, a grand cataract, into the dark chasm below. The road is upon a terrace pf solid masonry, or else upon a ledge cut in the rock, directly along the verge of the torrent. Far above, on the top of the cliff, was a fringe of fir-trees ; all below them was the barren gray rock, in places perfectly white, from the sheets of snowy foam, caused by the myriads of waterfalls which came dash- ing down their sides, and were lost in mists ere they reached the Doveria. We crossed the rushing river upon the Ponte Alto, and came to a projection of the mountain it seemed utterly im- possible to pass. But the skilful engineers had accomplished wonders ; instead of going round it, we suddenly dived into the Gallery of Gondo, six hundred feet long. It appeared interminable, although there were great windows to give light. At last the guard called out we were nearly through. Infiuite was our amazement and terror when the diligence emerged from the gallery, and passed under the great water- fall of the Frascinnone ! Our hearts almost ceased to beat, as the foam of the roaring, wildly- rushing torrent dashed into our faces, and a sound like that of the crashing avalanche as- sailed our ears. I suppose that we screamed ; but the hu- man voice was unheard in the fierce tumult of waters. We were only two minutes beneath the cataract, they told us ; but fear so painfully magnified the time, it really seemed an hour. The cascade, descending from the highest point of the rocky battlement above, leaves a space between the stream and the cliff, along which the workmen have cut a kind of huge shelf where the road passes. Although apparently so dangerous, we were assured it was entirely safe. When be- 192 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. yond the reach of the spray, we insisted upon stopping, that we might look upon the Frascinnone waterfall. It was a scene of matchless grandeur ! The immense mountains rose up as high as the Hawk's Nest of the Kanawha River. A little strip of sky appeared to roof over the great abyss, where the Doveria torrents and ourselves were sole occu- pants. The road continued to wind around and around along the terrace built up to support it, or through great caverns pierced in the living rock. On all sides there was a concert of waterfalls, of every size, form, and dimension; each one had its peculiar note of wild melody, as it rushed down the mountain, and mingled with the turbulent river far in the gulf below. We passed Gunz (or Gondo), the last village of the Val- lais canton, and then came to Isella, the first Italian or rather Austrian post, situated in a narrow valley, just on the edge of the foaming waters. There our passports and lug- gage were examined. As the soldiers went very leisurely to work to accomplish this, the deep night came ere it was com- pleted. Hence we were compelled to leave the diligence, and remain at the neat little inn of Isella. The sound of the rushing Doveria lulled us to sweet slumbers, and we could scarcely credit our eyes when we unclosed them at the call of our servant, and found daylight was with us again. We quickly made our toilette, and were soon in the carriage which we hired to take us to Domo d^Ossolo. The clear morning light lit up with glory the Val Dove- dro, which we now entered. In a few miles we came to the traces of the storm of 1839, which quite destroyed this por- tion of the road. Immense rocks, as large as feudal castles, were hurled down the mountain-side, crushing the bridges, FIKST VIEW OF ITALY. 193 and effacing every vestige of a road. The Sardinian govern- ment are slowly rebuilding it. We still continued on the banks of the Doveria torrent, crossing it at Crevola on a wooden bridge, where it joined the Toce. From the centre of that bridge we first looked upon beautiful Italy. Vol. I.— 9 CHAPTEK XXIII. We were now in the Val d'Ossolo, and all was changed. The trees were greenly luxuriant, and all of chestnut. Vil- lages arose in all directions, with the houses painted white, and the churches likewise, each one having a campanelle (bel- fry) rising by its side, like an ancient tower, thus adding to the picturesqueness of the scene. The Alps, in the distance, were like a frowning bulwark, to shut out the rude north, while, towards the south, they softened in outline, and were rich in the varied beauty of field, village, and vinejard. The postiglione, walking by the side of the carriage, amused me greatly. When 0. and E left it to walk, I asked him to point out the remains of a Roman bridge, across which the French passed as they marched to the field of Marengo. When we reached it, he showed me the ruins, and spoke with enthusiasm of " the great General." I remarked to him, " So you admire Napoleon ! " He drew himself up and re- plied, " Signora, all great minds appreciated him." Then he expatiated upon the benefits conferred on Italy by Napo- leon. Thus I found him always the idol, not only with the great, but among the lowliest. We had not passed many miles into the Val d^OssolOj BEGGARY A PROFESSION. 195 before the beggars appeared ; and, upon inquiring why they were so num.erous, our postiglione answered in his quaint language, mingled patois and Italian, " Beggary is a profes- sion, Signora. Every one should have a profession. Some take that of priest, some of robber, and many of beggar." Upon the last bridge of the route, we turned to take a parting look upon the distant gorge of Gondo, and the snow- capped Alps, with their azure glaciers. Although glorious and classic Italy lay before us, a regret stole over our hearts to leave " The Alps, The palaces of nature, whose vast walls Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps, And throned eternity in icy halls Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls The avalanche — the thunderbolt of snow ! " There is a specialiU (if I may thus apply a term of com- merce to a description of nature) which is enchanting. Every mountain seems to possess a special beauty, and is in itself a picture, apart from* the grand surroundings of foaming cata- racts, of snow-capped peaks, of deep-blue glaciers, and crash- ing avalanches. " Whoso first beholds the Alps," said Rogers, " instantly receives into his soul A sense, a feeling that he loses not, A something that informs him 'tis a moment Whence he may date henceforward and for ever." Swiftly we passed along down a valley filled with grape- vines, not in trim vineyards, but trained from tree to tree, waving gracefully in the breeze, then through fields of ripe grain and green meadows, to Domo d^Ossolo, a real Italian town, with long colonnades and parti-colored awniugs before the doors. There were multitudes of lazzaroni (idle fel- 196 SODVENIES OP TKAVEL. lows), with amazing Jjriglit eyes and mahogany-hued legs ; there were black-haired women, with veils over their heads, and very old women, with dingy shawls instead. No one ap- peared occupied ; every body was idle, talking and gesticu- lating. We drew up at the Hotel de Ville, a large, oriental- looking building, with marble floors and handsome suites of apartments, with fantastically curtained beds. We only tarried in Domo d'Ossolo until we could obtain a char a banc, with post-horses, and then went on with Mr. Ogden and Mr. Rockwell to Lago di Maggiore. Leaving the highway, we struck into a country road, passing through a lovely plain, varied by the frequent appearance of old Ro- man towers, built upon the mountain-tops one thousand years ago. The villages are beautiful at a distance, but near them the charm departs; they are frightfully dirty, with narrow streets, and squalid, unhealthy-looking inhabitants. The young girls are really pretty ; but the old women are hid- eously ugly. The moment the carriage stopped to change horses, it was surrounded by beggars ; some with enormous goitres; some were cretins (idiots); many without arms, or legs, or eyes, or noses. They came down upon us like a cloud of locusts. If one received charity, twenty took his place at once; and such entreaties, such plaintive cries for '•' cari- td / " as would have drawn money from even the miser's purse. When we had given away all our money, I was com- pelled to cover my face with my hands to escape the sight of their misery ; but I could not close my ears to their mournful voices. At one of the villages there was a child without either hands or feet. They seemed to have been cut off just at the wrists and the ankles. Yet, notwithstand- ing his lack of both, he moved rapidly over the ground, and was among the first tp gather as usual around the carriage. Although we had vowed to give away no more money to the THE wo:men and hokses. 19Y beggars, we could not resist the touching appeal of those Landless arms held up to us. Being delayed an hour, we got out to visit an old castle on the hill-side, and, in returning from it, met again our poor little beggar. We asked one of the peasant women how he lost both feet and hands, and she replied, " They fell off in a fever." But several of our party declared they had been cut off by his cruel parents, for the purpose of making him a " good 'beggar." When we translated this to her, she laughed and said it might be so ; for his lack of hands and feet was quite 2i foHune to his parents, as foresiieri (strangers) willingly gave to him when they refused all others, as we had done. Every where we found the grapes suffering from the Tna- latia, a kind of mould which covers the bunches and dries them up. For three years the vintage has failed from this cause, thus impoverishing still more the miserable inhabit- ants, who subsist entirely upon a paste made of the Turkish grain (a species of our Indian corn). They never taste meat more than two or three times in the year. The roads were excellent ; still we went slowly along, our post-horses were such miserable, over-worked creatures. The vetturino was constantly whipping them, but could not hasten their speed. At length I implored him to be less cruel. He answered my entreaties by saying, " Cruel in- deed ! the horses are used to it ; they expect it. I wish women never travelled ; they are too tender-hearted. I de- spise to drive a vettura with a woman in it ! " We knew not which were most objects of compassion — the women re- turning from the fields with great mountains of hay piled up on their shoulders, in a frame-work of wood strapped across their backs, or the poor horses, with their cruel drivers. In fact, the women and horses have a sorry life of it. However, 198 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. in nearly all tlie countries of Europe the labor falls upon the peasant women ; and therefore they have little the look of our females. In early youth they have some charms ; but suflFering and poverty soon efface them, and they become regular witches of Macbeth, worthy to have stood as models to Shakspeare. We crossed the Toce several times in the most ancient- looking ferry-boats, with ferrymen in sandals of wood fastened across the foot. We stopped at one of the peasants' Jiouses to purchase some fruit; and, while they were gathering it, we saw an Italian infant, about two months old, wrapped up in roll after roll of cloth, precisely like an Egyptian mummy. The arms were fr^e; but just below them began a wide bandage of some coarse material, which was wound around and around the poor little baby, until it was as tight as a well-pressed bale of Mobile cotton. When the mother went to work in the field, she could fasten a hook into the cloth, and hang the child up to the limb of a tree to keep it out of harm, or she might throw it carelessly over her shoulder, as though it were a stick of wood. When I inquired of the mother why she pursued such a frightful custom, she appeared amazed, and answered me quite in Yankee fashion, by ex- claiming, " You certainly don't live in a country where babies are so neglected as to be without wrapping-clothes the first six months ? " Thus to the list of the wretched and ill- treated we added the babies, regular martyrs to the " cus- toms of the country." When we arrived at the next post-house, we reported our driver for cruelty, and received the promise that he should be instantly dismissed. With a new veiturino, in fanci- ful costume, and spirited horses, we soon came to Lago di Maggiore, and drove rapidly on to the town of Baveuo. Leaving Octavia and R. to order the dinner at the inn, I MAGGIOKK VIEW FROM THE SHORE. 199 ran down to the shore, to enjoy aloiie the first impression of the lovely scene. - Ma